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TOUR 


FROM 


D  O  WJVIJVG 


TO 


AL  S  TON-M  OOR. 


By  THOMAS  PENNANT,  Esq. 


Hontion, 

Printed,  at  the  Oriental  Press,  by  Wilson  <§•  Co. 

FOR  EDWARD  HARDING,    NO.  98,  PALL-MALL  ; 
AND  SOLD  BY  WEST  AND  HUGHES,    NO.  40,   PATERNOSTER-ROW. 

1801. 


•        *    •. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


The  Tour  from  Downing  to  Alston  Moor,  now 
presented  to  the  Public,  was  performed  by  Mr.  Pen- 
nant in  1773.  At  the  conclusion  it  connects  with 
his  Scots  Tour,  and  forms  an  introductory  Volume  to 
that  excellent  Work,  equally  if  not  more  interesting 
to  the  English  Reader  and  to  the  Antiquary.  The 
Author,  in  his  Literary  Life,  p.  18,  thus  describes 
the  Work  :  "  The  subject  of  part  of  this  Journey  will 
be  found  among  my  Posthumous  Works,  illustrated 
with  Drawings  by  Moses  Griffith.  This;  will  take  in 
the  space  from  Downing  to  Orford ;  from  thence  to 
Knowsley,  Sefton,  Ormskirk,  Latham,  and  (crossing 
the  country)  to  Blackburn,  Whalley-abbey ,  Roches- 
ter, Mitton,  Waddington-hall  and  Clithero,  most  of 
them  in  the  County  of  Lancashire.  In  that  of  York 
I  visited  Salley  -  abbey ,  Solton-hall,  Malham  Coves, 
Settle,  Giggleswick  and  Ingleton.  I  then  crossed  the 
Lune  to  Kirkby -Lonsdale,  and  visited  all  the  parts  of 

West- 


R70539 


VI 


Westmoreland  and  Cumberland  omitted  in  my  printed 
Tours  of  1769  and  177£;  arid,  finally,  I  finished  this 
MS.  Volume  at  Alston,  near  the  Borders  of  Durham ." 

Notwithstanding  his  former  determination,  (see  Lit. 
Life,  p.  17,1.  19,)  the  Editor  has  the  satisfaction  to 
find,  that  Mr.  Pennant,  in  the  last  years  of  his  active 
life,  not  only  prepared  for  the  Press  the  Tour  now 
offered,  but  also  its  Continuation  by  Hackfall  and 
Fountains  Abbey  to  Harrogate  and  Brambam  Crags. 
This  Work,  he  hopes,  at  some  future  period,  to  have 
permission  to  add  to  the  List  of  Publications  of  that 
valuable  Author. 


Vll 


ITINERARY. 


Downing. 
Rock  Savage,  page  1 
Runcorn  Canal,  2 
Norton,  4 
Mere,  5 
Warrington,  9 
Gropen-hall,  12 
Thelwall,  13 
Lymme,  14 
Milbank,  15. 

LANCASHIRE. 

Warrington,  9 
Bewsey-hall,  19 
Prescot,  21 
Knowsley,  21 
Croxteth,  47 
Sefton,  47 
Lydiate  Chapel,  51 
Ormskirk,  5  1 
Burscough  Priory,  53 
Latham,  54 
Ley  land,  61 
Brindle,  63 
Houghton  Tower,  64 
Blackburn,  65 
Whalley  Abbey,  68 
Clithero,  75 
Standen-hall,  81 
Mitton,  82 
Stoneyhurst,  82 


Bashal,  86 

Waddington-hall,  87 
Waddow-hall,  89 
Salebury-hall,  91 
Ribchester,  92. 

YORKSHIRE. 

Salley- Abbey,  100 
Bolton -hall,  103 
Gisburn  Park,  106 
Swindon,  107 
Malham,  108 
Settle,  111 
Giggleswick,  112 
Ingleton,  114. 

WESTMORELAND. 

Kirkby- Lonsdale,  117 
Kendal,  119 
Kirkby-Stephen,  123 
Wharton-hall,  129 
Lamerside-hall,  131 
Pendragon-castle,  131 
Brough-castle,  136 
Helbec-hall,  137 
Warcop-hall,  138 
Appleby,  139 
Clippergate,  148 
Crakenthorpe,  148 
Kirkby-Thor,  149 


Burwens,    or  Whelp- 
Castle,  150 
Temple-Sowerby,  151 
Three-brother  Tree,  152 
Anne  Clifford's  Column, 

154 
Brougham-castle,  155 
Eimont-bridge,  158. 

CUMBERLAND. 

Penrith,  158 
Eden-hall,   160 
Long  Meg,  164 
Deadman's  Stack,  166 
Kirk-Oswald,  167 
Croglin,  I69 
Brampton,  171 
Naworth-eastle,  1 73 
Llanercost,  177 
Askerton-hall,  180 
Beucastle,  180 
Stapleton,  182 
Netherby,  182 
Long-town,  183 
Burgh  Marsh,  183 
Corbie-castle,  186 
Castle- Carrock,  186 
Cumrew,  186 
Carlatton,  186 
•Alston-Moor  town,  187- 


vui 


LIST  OF  PLATES. 


Painted  Glass  at  Warrington Page   1 1 

Orford-hall 12 

Tomb  of  Sir  Thomas  Boteler 20 

Edward  Earl  of'  Derby 26 

Charlotte  Countess  of  Derby 37 

Sefton  Church 48 

Lydiate  Chapel 51 

Houghton  Tower 64, 

Sir  Edward  Osbadiston •  •  •  66 

Clithero  Castle 76 

Ancient  Altar  at  Ribchester 93 

Kirkby-Lonsdale  Bridge 117 

Dr.  Shaw 120 

Overton  Church 122 

Tomb  of  Sir de  Musgrave,  &c 124 

Wharton  Hall 129 

Philip  Duke  of  Wharton 130 

Lamerside-hall 131 

Pendragon  Castle 131 

Brough  Church 137 

Appleby  Castle 1 39 

Tomb  of  the  Countess  of  Cumberland 144. 

Three-brother  Tree 152 

Anne  Clifford's  Column i54 

Naworth  Castle 173 

Llanercost  Priory 1 77 

Beu  Castle 1 80 


TOUR 


TO 


ALSTON  MOOR, 


1773. 


*      *      •    2       '     »» 


j      ,>_,»"       *" 


.Desire  of  health  from  exercise,  and  thirst  after  informa- 
tion respecting  the  almost  latent  curiosities  of  our  island* 
induced  me  this  year  to  undertake  another  journey,  into  the 
North  of  England. 

I  left  my  own  house  the  3d  of  August,  passed  through 
Chester,  the  village  of  Traffbrd,  and  over  Dunham  on  the 
hill,  and  from  thence  to  Frodesham.  After  crossing  the 
We-ver,  and  passing  over  a  small  common,  I  turned  into  a 
by-road,  and  visited,  on  an  eminence  on  the  left,  the  recent 
ruins  of  the  once  noble  seat  of  Rock-Savage,  built  in  the  Rock  Savage. 

b  reign 


ROCK-SAVAGE— RUNCORN. 

reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  by  Sir  John  Savage.  By  the 
marriage  of  Lady  Elizabeth  Savage,  daughter  and  heir  of 
Richard  earl  Rivers,  with  James  earl  of  Barrymore,  the 
house  and  estate  passed  into  that  family..  The  possession 
was  very  transient;  for,  by  the  run-away  mateh  of  his 
daughter,  the  Lady  Penelope  Barry,  with  General  Cholmon- 
deley,  they  were  transferred  into  a  new  race,  and  are  now 
possessed  by  the  Earl  of  Cholmondeley,  the  General's  great 
nephew. .  After  the  marriage,  the  place  was  neglected,  and 
so  fell;  into:  sad  decay :  a  gentleman,  who  was  born  in  the 
house,  lived  to  draw  a  pack  of  fox-hounds  through  it  in 
quest  of  game. 


H alton.  From  hence  I  made  another  visit  to  Halton  Castle,  to 
hang  over,  once  more,  the  much  admired  prospect;  from 
Runcorn,  which  I  descended  about  a  mile  to  Runcorn,  to  see  the 
grand  termination  of  the  Duke  of  Bridgewaters  Canal, 
which  there  falls  into  a  broad  bay  of  the  Mersey,  a  little 
way  below  the  pretty  peninsula  which  juts  from  the  Lan- 
cashire side,  and  forms  the  narrow  gut  called  Rwicorn-gap. 
The  fall  into  the  river  is  sixty-nine  feet,  which  is  eased  by 
the  help  of  a  series  of  five  double  locks  and  a  single  one ; 
and  through  these  passes  the  commerce  between  the  Ger- 
man ocean  and  Irish  sea. 

This 


CANAL. 

This  vast  undertaking  arose  from  a  small  beginning :  the 
original  intention  of  that  useful  Peer  was  to  get  an  Act  of 
Parliament,  in  1 758  and  1 759,  only  to  cut  a  Canal  from  the  Canal. 
collieries  at  Worsley  to  Manchester,  with  a  branch  extend- 
ing to  Cheshire.  As  soon  as  the  practicability  of  this 
was  ascertained,  a  design  was  formed  of  continuing  the 
canal  from  Manchester  to  the  Mersey,  below  Warrington, 
not  only  for  the  purpose  of  enlarging  the  sale  of  the  JDuke's 
coals,  but  to  furnish  the  country  with  a  cheaper  conveni- 
ency  of  water-carriage  than  that  on  the  Irwal  and  Mersey.. 
After  some  variations  in  the  plan,  it  was  executed  in  the 
following  manner: 

From .  Manchester  a  canal  is  made  in  a  direction  from 
South-west,  and  from  near  Altringham  goes  almost  West 
to  the  Mersey  below  Runcorn-gap.  The  length  of  this 
course  is  twenty-eight  miles  and  a  half,  and  is  carried  over 
the  Mersey  and  Bollan.  This  canal  is  joined  about  four 
miles  from  Manchester,  by  a  branch  which  crosses  the  Ir- 
wal,  by  the  fine  aqueduct  at  Barton-bridge,  and  extends  to 
the  great  collieries  at  Worsley,  in  all  about  six  miles  :  the 
only  locks  are  at  Runcorn. 

I  must  not  leave  that  place  without  mentioning,  that 

b  2  the 


4  RUNCORN  CHURCH.— NORTON. 

the  heroine  Ethelfleda,  in  Q 1 6,  founded  here  a  town  and 
castle:  its  glory  is  now  passed  away,  and  only  an  inconsi- 
derable village  remains.  The  scite  of  the  castle  is  very  evi- 
dent in  a  piece  of  land  which  juts  into  the  river  exactly  at 
Runcorn  Cas-  the  gap,  and  still  bears  the  name  of  the  Castle-rock,  being 

TLE. 

protected  on  the  water  side  by  ledges  of  rocks  and  broken 
precipices:  the  area  is  of  a  triangular  form,  flat,  but  sur- 
rounded with  a  mound  of  earth,  and  on  the  land  side 
v  guarded  by  a  ditch  at  least  six  yards  wide.  Nothing  could 
be  more  judicious  than  the  situation ;  for  it  is  placed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  gap,  and  must  have  been  an  effectual  check 
to  the  naval  inroads  of  the  Danes  up  the  Mersey,  at  a  pe- 
riod in  which  they  were  such  a  pest  to  the  kingdom. 

Church.  The  church  lies  above  the  Castle-rock;  its  foundation 

was  perhaps  coeval :  it  was  certainly  prior  to  the  Conquest, 
for  Nigel,  baron  of  Halton,  bestowed  it,  in  the  reign  of  the 
Conqueror,  on  his  brother  Wolfwith,  a  priest.  It  became 
afterwards  the  property  of  Norton  Abbey,  and  on  the  dis- 
solution was  bestowed  on  Christ-church,  Oxford.  An  abbev 
of  Canons  regular  or  Angus  tines,  was  originally  founded 
here  by  JVilliam  the  son  of  Nigel,  in   1133;  but  it  was 

Norton,  removed  by  his  son  William,  constable  of  Chester,  to  Nor- 
ton, about  two  miles  to  the  East.     On  December  10,  1545, 

Richard 


COUNTY  OF  LANCASTER.  5 

Richard  Brook,  esq.  purchased  the  manor  and  its  appurte- 
nances from  the  king#.  The  present  Sir  Richard  Brook 
rebuilt  the  house  in  a  very  handsome  style,  and  having  the 
good  fortune  to  lie  in  the  course  of  the  Duke  of  Bridge- 
water's  canal,  his  grounds  are  most  beautifully  improved 
by  the  meandering  of  the  water  in  view  of  the  house. 

I  kept  along  a  flat  and  wet  country,  leaving  on  the  left 
the  fine  meadows  washed  by  the  Mersey ;  and  went  through 
the  hamlet  of  Mere,  a.  fee  of  Halton,  bestowed  by  Roger  Mere. 
Lacy,  baron  of  Halton,  on  his  brother  Richard,  who  died 
leprous,  and  was  buried  at  Norton.  I  then  quitted  Cheshire, 
after  crossing  the  bridge  at  Warrington,  and  entered  the 
County  of 

LANCASTER. 

This  county,  with  those  of  Westmoreland,  Cumberland, 

Durham  and  Yorkshire,  formed,  at  the  coming  of  the  Ro- 

mans,  the  country  of  the  Brigantes,  a  warlike  people,  and 

much  distinguished  by   their   queen   Cartismandua,   who, 

after  betraying  Caractacus  to  the  Romans,  dethroned  her 

husband,   and  took  his  armour-bearer  to  her  bed;  which 

occasioned  the  restoration  of  her  husband  by  her  foreign 

friends,  and  her  disgraceful  abdication-^. 

After 
*  Leicester,  325.  f  Tacit.  Hist.  lib.  iii. 


LANCASHIRE.— THANES. 

After  the  Saxon  invasion,  this  county  was  called  Lancas- 
terscire,  from  the  capital  Lancaster  or  La?icaster,  the  castle, 
on  the  river  Lone  or  Lune.  The  new  conquerors  divided 
it  into  six  hundreds,  altered  since  in  names,  but  not  in 
numbers.  That  which  I  enter  is  Derby,  which  takes  its 
title  from  a  small  village,  once  a  regal  manor,  and  before  the 
arrival  of  the  Normans  held  (with  Leyland)  by  Edward  the 
Confessor.  This  hundred  comprises  the  track  between  the 
Ribble  and  the  Mersey,  and  was  granted  by  the  Conqueror 
to  Roger  of  Poictiers,  who  was  styled  Lord  of  the  Honour 
of  Lancaster.  This  nobleman  was  son  of  Roger  of  Mont- 
gomery, and  received  the  addition  to  his  name  on  account 
of  having  a  wife  out  of  Poictiers :  his  reign  was  short, 
being  deprived  on  account  of  his  disloyalty. 

Thanes.  The  Tains,  Thanes,  or  gentry,  who  held  of  the  king  dur- 

ing the  Saxon  period,  in  this  track,  held  their  teinland,  by 
payment  of  two  orte  for  every  plough-land;  by  assisting  in 
building  the  houses  of  the  king,  in  the  same  manner  as  if 
they  had  been  villeyns  \  in  making  the  fisheries,  and  the 
*  inclosures  and  toils  within  the  woods  :  if  they  failed,  they 
forfeited  two  shillings,  and  after  that  were  obliged  to 
attend  till  the  work,  whatsoever  it  was,  was  completed. 
They  were  also  to  send,  for  one  day  in  the  month  of  Au- 
gust, men  to  cut  the  royal  corn,  or  forfeit  the  like  sum. 
3  The 


THANES. 

The  royal  manor  was  at  that  period  at  Derby,  and  con- 
tained six  berewicks  or  townships;  had  fifteen  caracae*,  or 
plough-lands,  a  forest  two  leagues  long  and  one  broad,  and 
an  aerie  of  hawks. 

If  any  of  these  Thanes  committed  a  theft,  or  foresteM, 
i.  e.  obstruct  any  one  on  the  way,  probably  for  the  purpose 
of  forestalling,  or  committed  heinfar,  i.  e.  flies  his  country 
on  the  commission  of  any  crime,  or  broke  the  peace  of  the 
king,  he  forfeited  forty  shillings. 

If  any  of  them  either  drew  blood  from,  or  ravished  a 
woman,  or  did  not  attend  the  Scyre-mote,  or  County-court, 
without  a  reasonable  excuse,  they  were  fined  in  ten  shil- 
lings ;  and  if  they  departed  out  of  their  hundred,  and  did 
not  answer  at  the  Court,  on  being  summoned  by  the  Pro- 
positus^, or  Hundred-greve,  forfeited  five  shillings.  This 
Court  appears  to  me  to  have  been  the  Folc-mote,  where  all 
the  freemen  of  the  kingdom  were  obliged  to  appear  an- 
nually, with  their  arms,  according  to  their  degrees,  for  the 
inspection  of  their  officer,  who  was  to  examine  whether 
they  were  in  good  order. 

If 

*  Verstegan,  233.  f  Doomsday-book. 


8  THANES. 

- .  If  the  Hundred-greve  directed  any  of  them  to  do  his 
service,  and  he  refused,  a  fine  was  imposed  of  four  shil- 
lings. 

If  any  of  them  was  desirous  of  quitting  the  royal  lands, 
he  might,  on  payment  of  forty  shillings,  be  at  liberty  to  go 
wheresoever  he  pleased.  If  any  wished  to  succeed  to  the 
lands  of  his  father,  he  must  pay  an  acknowledgment  of 
forty  shillings;  which  if  he  refused  to  do,  both  land  and 
money  fell  to  the  king. 

These  Thanes  were  the  gentry  of  the  Saxon  times. — 
They  were  not  created,  but  received  rank  according  to  in- 
crease of  property.  At  that  period  there  were  Eorls  and 
C earls,  (Earls  and  Churls,)  Thegn  and  Theode?i,  Thanes  and 
IJnder-Thanes.  "  For,  if  a  Churl  thrived  so  as  that  he  had 
"  fully  five  hides  of  his  own  land,  a  church,  a  kitchen,  a 
44  bell-house  and  a  gate,  a  seat  and  several  offices  in  the 
I*  king's  hall,  then  was  he  henceforth  the  Thein's  right 
4t  worthie.  And  if  a  Thein  so  thrive  that  he  served  the 
44  king,  and  on  his  progresse  ryd  in  his  housholde ;  if  then, 
44  he  had  a  Thein  that  followed  him;  the  which  to  the  king's 
44  five  hides  (ploughlands)  had,  and  in  the  king's  palace  his 

44  lord 


THANES.  o 

"  lord  served,  and  thrice  with  his  errand  had  gone  to  the 
"  king,  he  might  afterwards,  with  his  fore  othe  his  Lord's 
"  part  play  at  any  great  need.  And  if  a  Thein  did  thrive 
"  so  that  he  became  an  Earl,  then  was  he  afterwards  wor- 
"  thie  the  rights  of  an  Earl;  and  if  a  Merchant  so  thrived 
"  that  he  passed  thrice  over  the  wide  sea  by  his  own  crafe, 
"  he  was  thenceforth  a  Thein  right  worthy*."  Let  me 
add,  that,  so  late  as  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  they  were  placed 
in  rank  immediately  after  earls,  and  before  the  knights  -j*. 

By  this  we  may  see  a  wise  policy  in  those  early  times, 
by  the  great  encouragement  given  to  industry;  that  pro- 
motion attended  frugal  ambition,  and  sloth  was  punished 
with  a  continuance  in  a  low  and  servile  state. 

Verstegan,  p.  233,  translates  Theyn  or  Thegn,  as  free 
servants.  "  Hence,"  says  he,  "  cometh  Thyen  or  Thiene, 
To  serve ;  and  that  the  Prince  of  Wales's  motto,  Ich  dien, 
I  serve,  is  derived  from  the  word  Ik  thian,  d  and  th  in 
our  more  ancient  language  being  indifferently  used," 

The  few  things  omitted  in  my  former  account  of  War-  Warrington. 

ringto?i,  may  be  mentioned  here.     If  this  place  had  been  the 

head  of  the  Saxo?i  hundred,  Walling t on %  mentioned  in  the 

c  Doomsday- 

*  Lambard's  Peramb.  Kent,  551.         f  Madox's  Antiq.  Exch.   1.  8. 


10  WARRINGTON. 

Doomsday-book,  the  patron  saint  must  have  been  changed  : 
that  ancient  record  makes  it  St.  Elfin ;  the  present  is  St. 
Helena,  noted  in  British  story.  The  chief  manor  belonged 
to  the  king,  and  had  dependent  on  it  thirty-four  other  ma- 
nors, and  the  same  number  of  Drenghs,  i.  e.  vassals  who 
held  their  manors  by  military  services,  and  also,  as  Spelman 
conjectures,  might  have  been  the  king's  body-guard  when 
called  out  into  actual  service*.     This  hundred  was  after- 

m 

wards  incorporated  with  the  present  hundred  of  West  Derby* 

• 
I  say  nothing  of  the  Roman  antiquity  of  this  place ;  the 
proofs  rest  on  the  probability  of  there  having  been  a  station 
at  the  head  of  Latcliford,  the  usual  passage,  at  low  water, 
into  the  town,  before  the  building  of  the  bridge,  a  place 
no  longer  fordable.  It  is  said  also,  that  vestiges  of  Roman 
roads  have  been  seen  in  digging  near  the  west  end  of  the 
town :  and  of  late  the  conjecture  has  been  strengthened 
by  the  discovery  of  many  hundred  of  brass  coins  in  a  pot 
at  Statham  near  Tlielwall,  many  of  them  of  Claudius ;  so 
that  it  is  possible  here  might  have  been  a  station,  and, 
from  the  similarity  of  sound,  that  station  might  have  been 
the  Veraiins  of  the  Ravenna  chorographer.  I  must  reject 
the  learned  Whitaker\  proof  of  a  Roman  road  passing  over 
the  river  at  Latckford,  drawn  from  a  rampart  flung  up,  as 

he 

*  Spelman's  Glossary,  184. 


•        ... 

•  •  •  •      .  .  > . 


Painted    Gt,a.££    at   Warhingt 


oasr 


■      ■■;•/„■    I/.,,,,-,,,,    .*„    ,.„,/   mr/i 


WARRINGTON.  1 1 

he  says,  by  the  Romans  on  the  Warrington  side,  the  said 
rampart  having  been  thrown  up  by  my  honest  friend,  Mat- 
thew Lyon,  to  form  an  elevated  retreat  for  sheep  in  time  of 
high  floods,  as  his  worthy  son,  John  Lyon,  esq.  is  ready  to 
aver  upon  oath  if  any  doubts  exist.  But  a  little  north- 
west of  the  church  is  a  much  stronger  evidence — a  mount 
of  a  circular  form,  with  a  considerable  area  in  the  middle, 
and  a  ditch  round  the  base,  which  probably  had  on  it  a 
castellum  to  protect  the  road. 

Among  Holme  $  manuscripts,  in  the  British  Museum,  I 
discovered  some  drawings  relative  to  the  church  of  War- 
rington. It  represents  three  figures  on  the  painted  glass 
of  the  windows,  probably  benefactors.  The  first  is  a  Ba- 
nister, with  a  shield  in  one  hand,  with  his  arms,  a  cross  fleury 
sable  in  field  argent.  The  next  has  a  sword  in  one  hand, 
a  flag  in  the  other ;  which,  by  the  arms,  shew  him  to  be 
a  Holland,  a  once  potent  family  in  this  county*.  Round  his 
head  is  a  baronial  fillet,  which  makes  it  probable  that  this 
personage  was  designed  for  Robert  Holland,  who  was  sum- 
moned to  Parliament  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II.  The 
third  is  his  unfortunate  master,  Thomas  earl  of  Lancaster, 
to  whom  he  proved  so  treacherous :  this  Earl  has  likewise 
a  flag.     All  are  armed  in  mail,  clothed  with  long  robes. 

c  2  During 


« 


Tour  Scotl.  1773,  Part  1,  19. 


12  GROPEN-HALL. 

During  my  stay  at  Orford,  I  made  an  excursion  across 
Warrington-bridge  into  Cheshire..  At  the  foot,  in  a  suburb 
called  Latchford,  is  now  building  a  good  street,  and  church 
Gropen-hall.  dependent  on  Gropen-halL  This  beginning  might  possibly 
have  grown  into  a  new  town,  had  it  not  been  checked  by 
the  evil  times. 

I  passed  over  Gropen-hall,  and  Latchford  heaths,  re- 
cently inclosed,  and  now  made  worth  31.  the  Cheshire 
acre.  On  the  right  is  Gropen-hall  church,  dedicated  to 
St.  Wilfrid,  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  Rev.  Edmund  Taylor ', 
both  patron  and  incumbent;  but  the  advowson  is  upon  sale. 

This  manor,  and  several  others,  was  held,  after  the  Con- 
quest, by  Osborn  Fit%-Tezzo?i,  bestowed  on  him  by  Hugh 
hupus.  This  Osborn  was  ancestor  of  the  Boydels,  of  Dod- 
dleston,  whose  posterity  held  it  for  some  centuries.  In 
1312,  the  sixth  of  Edward  II.  the  king  granted  to  William 
Boydel,  free  warren  in  his  lands  of  Doddleston  and  this  pa- 
rish. His  grand-daughters,  co-heiresses,  conveyed  it  to  Owen 
Voel  and  Sir  John  Daniel;  but  How  el  ap  Owen  released  his 
share  to  Sir  John.  From  him  it  passed,  in  the  female  line, 
in  moieties,  to  several  other  families,  which  I  decline  men- 
tioning, in  pursuance  of  my  rule  to  avoid  a  minute  detail 
of  parochial  antiquities. 

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'  *  *  *     \ 


THELWALL.  13 

A  little  farther  is  the  hamlet  of  Thelwall,  noted  in  Saxon  Thelwall. 
days  for  the  town  built  by  Edward  the  elder,  in  Q20#,  and 
fortified  with  a  precinct  made  of  stakes^,  from  which  it 
took  its  name;  Thell  signifying  a  stake,  and  wall  its  pre- 
sent meaning.  This  he  garrisoned,  and  committed  to  the 
custody  of  his  knights,  as  a  security  to  his  new  conquests. 

Roger  of  Poictiers  gave  the  fishery,  on  the  Lancashire* 
side  of  the  Mersey,  to  the  Abbot  of  Shrewsbury ',  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  I.  That  on  the  Cheshire  side  was  bestowed  by 
William,  third  baron  of  Halton,  on  the  Prior  of  Norton. — 
This  place  was  of  the  fee  of  the  Honour  of  Halton :  the 
same  William  gave  one-third  of  it. to  the  Abbey  of  Salop, 
with  all  its  appurtenances. 

The  other  two-thirds  were  granted  in  the  reign  of  Hen- 
ry III.  by  Edmund  Lacy  baron  of  Halton,  to  Galfrid  de 
Dutton  ancestor  of  IVarburton  of  Arley,  and  also  all  the 
land  he  had  of  the  Abbey  of  Evesham  in  Thelwall,  by  the 
service  of  yielding  annually  a  pair  of  gloves,  lined  with  the 
fur  of  a  stag,  on  Michaelmas-day.  After  passing  through 
various  successions,  it  was  purchased,  in  1622,  by  Robert 
Pickering  counsellor  at  law,  and  now  belongs  to  Henry 
Pickering  esq.  one  of  his  descendants.     Near  the  house  is 

a  small 
*  Saxon  Chr.  110.  f  Polychron.  ccxxxiii. 


14  LIMME. 

a  small  ruinous  chapel,  which,  with  many  others  in  this 
diocese,  are  said  never  to  have  been  consecrated;  were  ori- 
ginally only  domestic,  and  have  often  fallen  into  disuse*. 
In  this  township  are  very  considerable  powder-mills. 

The  little  town  of  himme  is  a  relief  to  the  dull  unvaried 
flat  from  Warrington  to  this  place,  being  seated  on  a  pretty 
inequality  of  sand-stone,  and  commanding  a  picturesque 
view  down  a  dell.  The  living  is  a  rectory  dedicated  to 
St.  Mary,  and  under  the  patronage  of  Sir  Peter  Warburton 
and  Egerto?i  Leigh  esq. — each  presents  a  minister,  who 
serve  alternately,  Sunday  by  Sunday.  This  division  has 
existed  ever  since  the  days  of  the  Conqueror,  when  Gilbert 
Venables,  baron  of  Kinderton,  had  one  half  of  the  town, 
held  before  by  one  TTfoiet ;  and  Osborn,  son  of  Tezzon,  the 
other.  They  also  divided  the  patronage  of  the  church, 
which,  served  by  a  Presbyter,  existed  in  the  time  of  the 
Confessor. 

From  whence  I  descended  to  a  flat  congenial  with  the 
former,  and  reached  Warburton,  a  village  and  chapel.  The 
first,  on  the  Conquest,  divided  between  William  Fitz-Nigel 
baron  of  Halton,  and  Osborn  son  of  Tezzon.  About  the 
time  of  Richard  I.  Adam,  younger  son  of  Hugh  Dutto7i, 

of 
*  Ecton,  571. 


WARBURTON.— MILL-BANK.  1 5 

of  Dutton,  became  possessed  of  the  whole;  part  in  right  of 
his  wife,  part  by  the  gift  of  John  baron  of  Halton.  This 
Adam  was  ancestor  of  the  Warburtons  of  Arley.  Peter,  a 
descendant  of  his,  residing  here  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II. 
assumed  the  name  of  the  place,  which  they  have  retained 
to  this  day.  From  hence  I  rode  along  the  steep  sandy 
banks  of  the  Mersey,  and  passed  some  agreeable  hours  with 
my  worthy  friend  John  Lyon  esq.  at  his  neat  house,  Mill- 
bank,  near  Hollin  s-ferry ,  a  horse  passage  into  the  county  of 
Lancaster. 

* 

Near  the  house  are  two  mills;  one  for  the  manufacture 
of  paper,  the  other  for  slitting  and  rolling  of  iron. 

The  Mersey  is  by  no  means  a  pleasing  water,  running 
usually  far  beneath  its  banks.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  very 
extremity  of  Cheshire,  near  the  borders  of  Yorkshire,  and  is, 
as  the  name  imports,  the  march  or  boundary  between  the 
kingdoms  of  Northumberland  and  Mercia,  and  divides  the 
counties  of  Lancashire  and  Cheshire-,  notwithstanding,  it 
does  not  take  the  name  of  Mersey  till  it  has  passed  Stock- 
port, above  which  it  is  called  the  Tame. 

It  flows  useless  for  navigation  till  it  reaches  the  Irwal, 
five  miles  below  Manchester,  when  both  streams  receive 

artificial 


10  THE  MERSEY. 

artificial  depth  by  the  help  of  nine  locks  between  that  town 
.  and  Warrington.  They  were  made  navigable  under  pow- 
ers of  an  Act  of  Parliament  obtained  in  1 720,  when  it  was 
undertaken  successfully  by  several  adventurers.  The  na- 
vigation is  never  interrupted  by  droughts,  as  it  can  be  sup- 
plied with  water  between  lock  and  lock,  by  flushing  or  let- 
ing  off  back-water  reserved  for  that  purpose  :  floods  and 
frost  often  render  it  unnavigable.  It  carries  vessels  of 
thirty-five  to  forty  tons  burden;  and  such  is  the  increase 
of  manufactures  at  Manchester,  there  are  more .  employed 
than  ever,  notwithstanding  the  completion  of  the  Duke  of 
Bridgewaters  Canal  to  that  town.  But  the  public  receives 
great  benefit,  not  only  by  the  choice  of  conveyance,  but  by 
the  fall  of  the  freight  from  ten  shillings  to  six  shillings  and 
eight-pence  a  ton  On  the  Mersey. 

The  fish  of  this  river  are  salmon,  smelts,  a  few  trout, pike, 
perch,  bream,  chub,  dace,  graining,  gudgeons,  sticklebacks, 
lampries,  lamperns,  and  eels. 

After  crossing  the  river  I  resumed  my  journey  and  re- 
turned through  Warrington:  at  the  western  end  of  the 
town  passed  by  Bank,  the  seat  of  Thomas  Patten  esq.  a 
new  house  raised  entirely  upon  copper.  The  foundations 
are  the  stags  from  the  adjacent  furnaces,  the  property  of 

that 


SANKEY  CANAL.  1 7 

that  gentleman,  cast  in  moulds,  into  squares  for  the  pur- 
pose. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  farther  I  crossed  Sankey  Brook 
Navigation;  which,  from  its  junction  with  the  Mersey,  ex- 
tends near  twelve  miles  into  the  country.  Originally  the 
only  water  inlet  was  a  brook,  which  at  spring-tides  ad- 
mitted small  vessels  about  half  a  mile  from  the  mouth  to  a 
warehouse  at  Sankey -bridges,  which  is  still  in  use.  But  far 
the  greater  number  of  vessels  pass  into  the  river  by  a  new 
canal  from  the  bridges,  a  mile  and  a  half  westward  to 
Fidler  s-ferry ,  the  common  passage  over  the  estuary  into 
Cheshire. 

The  present  useful  canal  was  formed  in  consequence  of 
an  Act  passed  in  17^5,  empowering  certain  undertakers  to 
make  the  Sankey  stream  navigable :  or,  to  speak  with  more 
precision,  to  cut  a  canal  near  that  inconsiderable  rivulet, 
and  to  render  it  fit  for  all  the  purposes  of  inland  naviga- 
tion. This  is  the  most  ancient  we  have  in  our  island,  that 
runs  distinct  from  the  natural  beds  of  other  rivers,  since 
the  revival  of  these  great  works;  for  we  must  not  forget 
the  Roman  Foss-dike,  and  the  opening  of  it  again  in  the 
time  of  Henry  II. 

d  The 


18  SANKEY  CANAL. 

The  present  state  of  this  canal  is  as  follows: — It  runs 
entirely  separate  from  Sankey-brook,  except  in  one  place, 
where  it  crosses,  and  for  a  small  space  mixes  with  it.  Its 
length  from  Fidler's-ferry  to  a  place  where  it  separates  into 
three  branches,  is  nine  miles  and  a  quarter:  from  thence 
it  is  carried  to  Penny '-bridge  and  Gerard's --bridge,  and  there 
terminates;  but  from  Boardman  s-bridge  it  extends  two 
thousand  yards,  making  the  whole  distance  from  the  Mersey 
eleven  miles  three-quarters.  In  that  course  there  are  eight 
single  and  two  double  locks,  and  the  fall  is  about  sixty 
feet.  The  chief  article  carried  on  it  is  coal,  of  which,  in 
the  year  177U  45,568  tons  were  conveyed  to  Liverpool; 
and  to  Warrington,  Northwich  and  other  places,  44,152 
tons.  There  are  besides  slates  and  corn  brought  down; 
and  deal,  paving,  and  lime-stones  (purloined  from  the  coast 
of  North  Wales),  carried  up. 

Near  the  northern  end  of  the  canal  is  seated  the  im- 
portant manufacture  of  plate  glass,  lately  introduced  into 
this  kingdom,  and  which  rivals  that  of  the  famous  work  in 
the  Rue  de  St.  Antoine  at  Paris.  Let  us  acknowledge  that 
we  owe  the  success  to  some  capital  persons  seduced  from 
thence  :  this  seems  to  be  among  all  nations  a  reciprocation 
of  this  species  of  artifice.  At  Ravenhead,  not  remote  from 
3  the 


SANKEY  CANAL.— BEWSEY-HALL.  1 9 

the  former,  much  of  the  copper  ore  from  the  vast  mine  of 
Paris  mountain  is  smelted,  and,  when  fused,  brought  down 
again  by  the  same  channel,  and  conveyed  in  a  metallic 
form  to  Holywell,  and  other  battering  works,  the  property 
of  the  great  companies.  It  is  the  plenty  of  coal  which  first 
tempted  them  to  settle  in  those  parts. 

From  the  year  1758  to  the  present  time  three  hundred 
and  seventeen  vessels  of  about  thirty-four  or  thirty -five  tons 
have  navigated  upon  the  canal:  these  in  general  belong  to 
private  persons.  The  highest  spring-tides  rise  within  a 
foot  of  the  level  of  the  mouth  of  the  canal  or  the  lowest 
lock.  Loaded  vessels  are  generally  neaped  about  three 
days;  but  the  empty  can  pass  to  and  from  the  river  every 
tide.  I  am  the  more  full  in  my  account  of  this  canal,  as  it 
seems  as  yet  unnoticed,  in  common  with  the  general  his- 
tory of  this  important  county.  Liverpool  alone  has  as  yet 
had  its  historian. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  Sanhey  bridges  stand  the  re- 
mains of  Bewsey-hall,  the  seat  of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Bewsey-hall. 
Botelers.  Robert,  the  first  who  assumed  the  name,  took 
it  from  his  office  of  Butler  to  Hanulf  de  Gernons  or  Mes- 
clunes  earl  of  Chester,  in  1 120.  He  had  large  possessions 
in  this  county,  and  his  descendants  were  great  benefactors 

n  2  to 


20  ,i  BEWSEY-HALL. 

to  the  town  of  Warrington.  Sir  Thomas,  I  believe  the  last  of 
the  name,  was,  with  his  Lady,  murdered  in  this  house,  by 
assassins,  who  in  the  night  crossed  the  moat  in  leathern 
boats,  or  coracles,  to  perpetrate  this  villainy.  The  unfor- 
tunate pair  lie  represented  magnificently  in  alabaster  in  the 
parish  church;  and  the  sides  of  the  tomb  are  finely  orna- 
mented with  various  saintly  figures. 

This  seat  passed  after  to  the  Irelands,  the  Athertons,  and 
lastly  to  the  Gwillims,  who  now  possess  the  estate  ;  the 
moat  and  part  of  the  house  still  remain.  In  the  house  is  a 
singular  picture  on  board,  of  an  assemblage  of  the  Florent'me 
wits  and  poets,  from  Guido  Cavalcanti,  who  died  in  1 300, 
to  Marsilius  Ficinus,  who  died  in  14QQ.  Dante  is  placed 
sitting  with  a  book  in  his  uplifted  hand,  as  if  reading  to 
Cavalcanti,  who  stands  behind.  Petrarch  stands  leaning 
forward,  as  if  applying  to  Dante  ;  is  dressed  in  a  white 
cap,  in  a  blue  dress  over  his  shoulders,  and  a  white  vest: 
behind  him  is  Boccace,  represented  bald:  all  these  with 
laureated  heads.  Behind  them  are  Angelus  Poliiianus  in 
a  blue  cap,  and  Ficinus  in  a  red  gown — a  group  of  illus- 
trious not  to  be  paralleled  in  the  same  space  in  scarcely 
any  country. 

Bold-hall.        On  the  right  of  the  road  is  Bold-hall,  the  seat  of  the 

4  ancient 


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.....    ■  ■  •  - 


PRESCOT.  21 

ancient   family   of  the   Bolds,   now   extinct  in   the    male 
line. 

The  parish  of  Prescot  commences  at  Sankey  bridges:  Prescot. 
eight  miles  farther  is  the  town,  seated  on  a  hill,  and  well- 
built  and  flourishing ;  the  intervening  country  flat,  and  full 
of  hedge-rows  ;  and  the  whole  parish  rich  in  collieries.  The 
town  abounds  in  manufacturers  of  certain  branches  of 
hard-ware,  particularly  the  best  and  almost  all  the  watch- 
movements  used  in  E?igland,  and  the  best  files  in  Europe. 
Here  is,  besides,  a  manufacture  of  coarse  earthen  mugs,  and 
of  late  another  of  sail-cloth. 

The  church  is  large,  and  has  in  it  an  organ,  procured 
from  the  cathedral  of  St.  Asaph  when  the  new  one  was 
erected.  Against  an  outside  wall  is  an  upright  figure,  in 
stone,  of  John  Ogle  of  Prescot-hall,  with  beard  and  whis- 
kers, in  a  short  jacket  and  great  trunk  breeches ;  with  the 
motto,  Veritas  vincit. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Prescot  lies  Knowsley,  the    Knowsley. 
residence  of  the  Earls  of  Derby,  seated  in  a  park  high  and 
much  exposed  to  the  fury  of  the  west  winds;  for,  distant 
as  this  place  is  from  the  sea,  the  effect  is  visible  in  the 
shorn  form  of  the  trees.     This  was  a  manor  appertaining 

to 


22  KNOWSLEY. 

to  Latham,  and,  in  the  time  of  Edward  II.  was  held  from 
the  lordship  of  Wydenesse,  in  this  county,  an  appurtenance 
to  the  Honour  of  Halton,  by  Robert  de  Latham,  who  paid 
one  knight's  fee  and  a  relief  of  five  pounds,  the  money 
paid  by  a  ward  to  his  superior  on  coming  of  age. 

The  house  consists  of  two  parts,  joining  to  each  other  at 
right  angles ;  the  more  ancient  is  of  stone,  in  which  are 
two  small  round  towers.  This  was  built  by  Thomas  first 
earl  of  Derby,  for  the  reception  of  his  son-in-law  Henry  VII. ; 
the  other  part,  which  is  of  brick,  by  the  late  and  present 
Earls. 

Portraits.  I  surveyed  with  great  pleasure  the  numerous  portraits  of 
this  illustrious  family,  an  ancient  race,  long  uncontaminated 
by  vice  or  folly.  The  late  venerable  Peer,  Edward  earl  of 
Derby,  supported  the  dignity  of  his  family  ;  aged  as  he  was, 
there  was  not  a  person  in  his  neighbourhood  but  wished 
that  his  years  could  be  doubled.  The  country  was  de- 
prived of  this  worthy  Peer,  at  the  age  of  87,  on  Feb.  23, 
177^,  and  his  Countess  followed  him  within  two  days. 

The  first  portrait  is  the  head  of  Thomas  Lord  Stanley, 
afterwards  Earl  of  Derby,  dressed  in  black,  with  the  George 
in  a  bonnet,   small  ruff,  and  with  a  white  wand.     This 

nobleman 


KNOWSLEY.  23 

nobleman  was  an  active  character  in  the  reigns  of  Edward  IV. 
Richard  HI.  and  Henry  VII.,  and  a  gallant  soldier  from 
his  earliest  days.  He  first  distinguished  himself  at  the 
siege  of  Berwick,  under  Richard  then  duke  of  Gloucester, 
which  he  took  by  storm:  his  fidelity  to  Edward,  and  af- 
terwards to  his  children,  procured  him  the  hatred  of  the 
Usurper.  He  narrowly  escaped  death  by  assassination  at 
the  Council  Board,  at  the  instant  his  friend  Hastings  was 
dragged  from  it  to  execution.  It  is  pretended  that  the  last 
might  have  avoided  his  fate,  had  he  attended  to  a  dream  of 
Stanley,  that  a  Boar  had  gored  them  both, '  alluding  to  the 
crest  or  cognizance  of  Gloucester.  On  the  invasion  of 
Richmond,  he  was  directed  to  raise  his  dependents  in  sup- 
port of  Richard,  who,  distrusting  his  fidelity,  obliged  him 
to  leave  his  son  George  as  a  hostage.  At  the  battle  of 
Bosworth  he  joined  Henry;  his  son  escaped  the  threatened 
danger,  and  he  had  the  honour  of  crowning  the  Earl  with 
the  coronet  torn  from  the  brows  of  the  slain  tyrant.  The 
succeeding  monarch  created  him  Earl  of  Derby,  and 
accumulated  on  him  merited  honours.  He  died  in  1504, 
and  was  buried  at  Burs  cough,  beneath  a  tomb  pro- 
vided by  himself;  with  his  own  figure,  and  that  of  his  two 
wives. 

His  second  consort,  Margaret  countess  of  Richmond,  is 

repre- 


24  KNOWSLEY. 

represented  in  a  religious  habit,  praying  :  the  Earl  was 
her  third  husband.  The  good  Lady,  satiated  with  the  vain 
pleasures  of  this  life,  requested  and  obtained  of  her  spouse 
a  license  of  chastity,  which  she  vowed  according  to  form 
in  presence  of  Bishop  Fisher-,  after  which,  she  led  a  life  of 
mortification,  and  wore  girdles  and  shifts  of  hair,  even  to 
the  dilacerating  of  her  tender  skin.  Her  works  of  piety 
were  considerable,  among  which  may  be  reckoned  the 
founding  of  St.  John's  College  in  Cambridge.  She  dedicated 
her  leisure  hours  to  translations  of  religious  books ;  and 
produced  the  "  Forthe  boke  of  the  followinge  Jesn  Chryste, 
and  of  the  Contepning  of  the  World,  and  the  Mirroure  of 
Goldefor  the  sinfull  Soule — emprynted  by  Pynson"  a  very 
rare  book,  with  suitable  figures.  She  was  daughter  to  John 
Beaufort  duke  of  Somerset :  was  first  married  to  Edmund  earl 
of  Richmond,  uterine  brother  to  Henry  VI.  and  afterwards  to 
to  Sir  Henry  Stafford,  second  son  to  Humphrey  duke  of  Buck- 
ingham. She  wavered  in  her  first  choice — irresolute  whe- 
ther she  should  take  Edmund,  or  the  son  of  De  la  Pole  duke 
of  Suffolk.  In  this  distress,  by  advice  of  an  old  lady,  she 
applied  to  St.  Nicholas,  Patron  of  Virgins,  who  appeared 
to  her,  and  decided  in  favour  of  the  former.  By  him  she 
had  Henry  VII.  She  died  June  2Q,  150Q,  and  was  buried 
beneath  a  most  beautiful  monument  in  the  Chapel  of  her 
son  Henry  VII.  in  Westminster  Abbey. 

The 


KNOWSLEY.  25 

The  portrait  of  his  son  George  is  preserved  here,  dressed  George,  Lord 
like  the  Earl,  with  the  Order  of  the  Garter,  and  ermine 
robing  to  his  gown.  He  died  in  the  life  of  his  father; 
poisoned  through  jealousy  at  a  banquet,  and  was  interred 
in  St.  Botolph's  Church,  London.  His  talents  were  em- 
ployed both  in  the  cabinet  and  the  field :  he  was  appointed 
Commissioner  to  treat  with  the  Scots  in  the  reign  of  Ed- 
ward, and  in,  that  of  Henry  was  very  instrumental  in  the 
overthrow  of  the  Yorkists  in  the  conclusive  battle  of  Stoke. 


His  son,  a  second  Thomas,  is  placed  near  him,  habited  Thomas,  se- 

t  condEarlof 

like  the  former,  with  a  white  wand,  and  with  the  addition  derby. 
of  red  feathers  to  his  bonnet.  His  chief  deeds  were,  being 
surety  in  50,0001.  for  the  performance  of  the  marriage 
contract  between  Mary,  third  daughter  of  Henry  VII,  and 
the  Prince  of  Spain,  afterwards  Charles  V.  being  present  at 
the  battle  of  the  Spurs  with  Henry  VIII.  and  being  one  of 
the  Peers  who  sat  on  the  trial  of  the  ill-fated  Stafford  duke 
of  Buckingham. 

His  successor  Edward,  third  Earl,  is  represented  in  a  Edward,  third 
bonnet  and  furred  gown,  painted  by  Holbein.     I  cannot    BY 
learn  who  was  the  artist  to  whom  we  owe  the  three  pre- 
ceding.    It  is  probable  that  the  two  first  were  the  work  of 

e  the 


2(3  KNOWSLEY. 

the  elder  Holbein,  the  supposed  uncle*  to  the  other,  who 
painted  in  E?igland  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII. 

This  Earl  was  the  greatest  character  of  his  time,  and 
■  .  lived  in  four  reigns  with  distinguished  honour,  and  loyalty 
to  his  Sovereigns ;  but,  what  is  far  more  meritorious,  useful 
to  all  whom  Providence  had  placed  under  his  immediate 
protection.  "  His  greatness,"  says  Lloyd,  "  supported  his 
goodness;  and  his  goodness,  his  greatness -f\"  He  is  the 
finest  example  of  the  ancient  independent  English  noble- 
men that  remains  on  record.  He  lived  among  his  people 
ready  to  sacrifice  his  life  in  the  cause  of  his  Prince,  when 
popular  tempests  arose;  not  to  insult  him  with  imperti- 
nence, faction  and  ingratitude,  like  the  independents  of 
later  days.  "  His  house  was  a  college  of  discipline,  not 
"  the  receptacle  of  buffoons,  gamesters  and  profligates. — 
"  It  was  a  palace  for  entertainment;  his  servants  being  so 
"  many  young  gentlemen  trained  up  to  govern  themselves 
"  by  observing  him  ;  who  knew  their  master,  and  under- 
"  stood  themselves:}:." 

As  he  lived,  so  he  died,  among  his  people  at  Latham, 

ia 

*  Mr.  Walpok's  Anecd.  Painting,  1.  46. 

t  Lloyd's  State  Worthies,  1.  433.  %  Ibid. 


1  ""  '    '  ' 


E  dwa«d   Earl  of   Derby 


"y  ■ 


'"" 


»   »      *      *  . 


4  *  _ 


KNOWSLEY.  27 

in  October  1574  :  his  funeral  was  celebrated  with  uncom- 
mon splendour.  I  leave  the  reader  to  consult  Collins*  for 
the  description;  but  must,  for  my  own,  as  well  as  his  en- 
tertainment, transcribe  from  honest  Stow^  the  amiable 
character  that  once  animated  the  poor  remains  to  whom 
these  funebrious  respects  were  paid. 

"  His  life  and  death,"  says  the  historian,  "  deserving 
"  commendation,  and  craving  memory  to  be  .mitated,  was 
*'  such  as  followeth.  His  fidelity  unto  two  kings  and 
*'  two  queens,  in  dangerous  times,  and  great  rebellions,  in 
"  which  time,  and  always  as  cause  served,  he  was  Lieuie- 
"  nant  of  Lancashire  and  Cheshire-,  and  lately  offered 
"  10,000  men  unto  the  Queen's  Majesty,  of  his  own 
*'  charge,  for  the  suppression  of  the  last  rebellion.  His 
"  godly  disposition  to  his  tenants,  never  forcing  any  service 
"  at  their  hands,  but  due  payment  of  their  rent.  His  li- 
*'  berality  to  strangers,  and  such  as  shewed  themselves 
"  grateful  to  him;  his  famous  house-keeping,  and  eleven 
"  score  in  checkroll,  never  discontinuing  the  space  of 
"  twelve  years.  His  feeding,  especially  of  aged  persons, 
"  twice  a  day,  three  score  and  odd;  besides  all  comers 
**  thrice  a  week  appointed  for  his  dealing  days;  and  every 
"  Good  Friday,  these  thirty-five  years,  one  with  another, 

e  2  "  two 

*  Peerage  11.  459.  t  Annates,  6/3. 


28 


KNOWSLEY. 


two  thousand  seven  hundred,  with  meat,  drink,  money, 
and  money's  worth.  There  was  never  a  gentleman,  or 
other,  that  waited  in  his  service,  but  had  allowance  from 
him,  to  have  as  well  wages  as  otherwise  for  horse  and 
man.  His  yearly  portion,  for  the  expences  of  his  house, 
40001.  His  cunning  in  setting  bones  disjointed  or 
broken,  his  surgery,  and  desire  to  help  the  poor;  his  de- 
livery of  the  George  and  Seal  to  the  Lord  Strange,  with 
exhortation  that  he  might  keep  it  so  unspotted  in  fidelity 
to  his  Prince  as  he  had ;  and  his  joy  that  he  died  in  the 
Queen's  favour.  His  joyful  parting  this  world;  his  taking 
leave  of  all  his  servants,  by  shaking  of  hands ;  and  his  re^ 
membrance  to  the  last  day." 


Henry,  fourth 
Earlof  Derby. 


To  this  nobleman  succeeded  his  son  Henry.  He  is 
painted  also  on  wood,  in  a  bonnet,  with  the  George  pen- 
dant from  a  gold  chain.  He  had  the  honour  of  the  em- 
bassy to  invest  Henry  III.  of  France  with  the  Order  of  the 
Garter,  and  the  mortification  of  being  appointed  one  of  the 
Judges  of  Mary  Stuart.  He  married  three  wives,  got  three 
natural  children,  and  died  in  the  year  1593. 


Ferdinand,  His  son  Ferdinand  appears  on  canvas  in  black,  with  long 

fifth  Earlof 

Derby.  hair,  and  a  turn-over.     This  Earl  was  cut  off,  in  the  bloom 

of  life,  by  poison,  as  supposed  in  revenge  for  bringing  to 

justice 


KNOWSLEY.  29 

justice  one  Richard  Hesket,  agent  to  the  Jesuits.  This 
man  had  in  vain  endeavoured  to  persuade  his  Lordship  to 
revolt  against- Elizabeth,  and  to  claim  the  crown  in  right 
of  his  great  grandmother  Mary,  daughter  to  Henry  VII. — 
Ferdinand  not  only  refused  to  listen  to  his  offer  of  supplies 
of  men  and  money ;  but,  unterrified  with  his  menaces  of 
revenge,  caused  him  to  be  apprehended.  In  four  months 
the  miscreant's  threats  seemed  to  have  taken  effect;  the 
Earl  was  seized  with  most  horrible  symptoms,  and  died, 
with  all  the  appearance  of  falling  a  victim  to  poison,  on 
April  16,  15Q4.  His  Master  of  the  Horse  fled  as  soon  as 
his  Lord  began  to  sicken.  In  order  to  divert  suspicion  of 
the  true  cause  of  his  death,  the  contriver  of  it  left  in  his 
chamber  a  waxen  image  with  hair  of  the  same  colour  with 
the  Earl's  thrust  into  its  belly.  This  was  to  encourage  a 
popular  superstition  of  the  age,  that  his  end  was  owing  to 
witchcraft*.      No  notion  was  more  common  than  that  the 

dealers 

*  Cambden's  Annals  of  Elizabeth,  years  1593,  1594;  or  Kennet,  ri.  574, 
580.  The  account  inserted  in  the  Appendix  taken  out  of  Lord  Somers's- 
Tracts  will  serve  to  shew  the  wild  notions  of  that  age. 

"  An.  Reg.  Eliz.  36,  1594,  the  16th  of  April,  Ferdlnando  earl  of  Derby 
deceased  at  Latham,  whose  strange  sickness  and  death,  gathered  by  those 
who  were  present  with  him  at  the  time  thereof,  was  such  as  followeth: — 
His  apparent  diseases  were,  vomiting  of  sower  or  rustie  matter  with  blood, 
the  yellow  jaundies,  melting  of  his  fat,  swelling  and  hardness  of  his  spleen, 

a 


30  KNOWSLEY. 

dealers  in  that  art  could  cause  a  sympathy  between  a  waxen 
image  placed  before  a  fire,  and  the  body  of  any  person  on 
whom  they  wished  to  wreak  their  malice.  In  proportion 
as  the  former  melted,  so  would  the  constitution  of  the  ob- 
ject aimed  at  dissolve  away.     This  species  of  incantation 

is 

a  vehement  hickcough,  and,  four  days  before  he  died,  stopping  of  his  water. 
The  causes  of  all  his  diseases  were  thought  by  the  physicians  to  be  partly 
a  surfeit,  and  partly  a  most  violent  distempering  himself  with  vehement 
exercise  taken  four  days  together  in  the  Easter-week. 

"  The  5th  of  April,  about  six  o'clock  at  night,  he  fell  sick  at  Luoxvsby, 
where  he  vomited  thrice. 

1 '  The  6th.  he  returned  to  Latham,  and  feeling  his  health  to  sink  more 
and  more,  sent  to  Chester  for  a  doctor  of  physick. 

"  The  7th,  before  the  coming  of  the  doctor,  he  had  cast  seven  times; 
the  colour  of  his  vomits  like  to  sooty  or  rusty  iron,  the  substance  very 
gross  and  fattie,  the  quantity  about  seven  pints,  the  smell  not  without 
offence ;  his  waters  were,  in  colour,  smell  and  substance,  not  unlike  his  vo- 
mits. The  same  night  he  took  a  glyster  to  draw  the  course  of  the  humours 
downward,  which  wrought  five  times  and  gave  some  ease. 

"  The  8th  he  took  a  gentle  infusion  of  rhubarb  and  manna  in  a  draught 
of  chicken  broth,  which  wrought  very  well  nine  times. 

'■'  The  .9th,  because  of  his  continual  bleeding  by  mouth  with  his  vomits, 
he  was  instantly  intreated  to  be  let  blood,  to  divert  and  stay  the  course 
thereof,  but  he  could  by  no  means  be  perswaded  thereunto,  wherefore  that 
day  only  fomentations  and  oils  and  plasters  were  outwardly  applied  to  stay 
and  comfort  his  stomach. 

*'  The  10th  he  took  one  other  glyster,  which  wrought  well  six  times. 
"The  11th  he  took  one  other  purge,  which  wrought  with  great  ease 
nine  times  upon  the  humours.     The  same  night  he  took  a  little  diascor- 
3  dium, 


KNOWSLEY.  31 

is  extremely  ancient,  as  old  at  least  as  the  days  of  Theocri- 
tus ;  with  this  difference — our  Sorcerers  made  use  of  the 
little  image  as  an  instrument  of  revenge — the  Sicilian  Fair, 
to  recall  the  affections  of  their  lovers. 

dium,  with  the  syrup  of  lemons  and  scabious  water,  which  somewhat  stayed 
his  stomach  and  gave  him  some  rest. 

"  The  12th,  because  his  vomiting  continued  still,  he  was  moved  to  take 
a  vomit,  that  thereby  the  bottom  of  his  stomach  migbt  be  scoured  and 
cleansed  from  so  vile  and  loathsome  matter  wherewith  he  was  troubled, 
but  by  no  perswasion  would  he  yield  thereunto ;  notwithstanding  the  same 
day  he  took  a  medicine  to  procure  sweat,  but  prevailed  not.  The  very 
same  night  his  water  stopp'd  upon  a  sudden,  to  the  astonishment  of  all. 

"  The  13th  all  means  were  offered  to  provoke  water,  as  glyster,  drinks, 
plasters,  fomentations,  oils,  pultises,  stirrings  ;  but  nothing  happily  suc- 
ceeded. 

"  The  14th  and  15th  was  used  an  instrument  called  a  catheter,  which 
being  conveyed  into  his  bladder  was  strongly  sucked  by  the  surgeon  ;  but 
no  water  followed. 

"  The  16th,  about  five  o'clock  at  night,  he  most  devoutly  yielded  his 
soul  to  God. 

' '  In  all  the  time  of  his  sickness  he  often  took  Bezoar  stone  and  Uni- 
corn's horn:  his  pulse  were  very  good,  his  strength  indifferent;  the  num- 
ber of  vomits  were  52,  and  of  his  stools  29  J  his  physicians  were  Dr.  Canon, 
Dr.  Joyner,  Dr.  Bate,  and  Dr.  Case. " 

A  true  Report  of  such  Reasons  and  Conjectures  as  caused  many  Learned 
Men  to  suppose  him  to  be  bewitched. 

•'  The  first  of  April,  before  his  Honour  fell  sick,  a  woman  offered  unto 
him  a  supplication  or  petition,  wherein  her  request  was,  that  it  would  please 

him 


32  KNOWSLEY. 

"  fig  tvtov  rov  Kctgov,  tyca  vvv  fioupovi  txku, 

"  Of  TxttoiP  vu    £f>ooTog  o  Mvvtiiog  ctVTixa,  AsXp/f."  * 

V  As  melts  this  waxen  form  by  fire  defaced, 

"  So  in  love's  flames  may  Myndian  Delphis  waste  !" 

William,  His  brother  William  succeeded  this  unfortunate  Peer. — 

sixth  Earl,  of 

Derby.  He 

him  to  give  or  assign  her  a  dwelling-place  near  unto  himself,  that  she 
might  from  time  to  time  reveal  unto  him  such  things  with  speed  which 
God  revealed  unto  her  for  his  good.  This  petition  was  thought  vain, 
therefore  refused. 

"  On  the  4th  of  April  he  dreamed  that  his  Lady  was  most  dangerously 
sick  to  death  ;  and  in  his  sleep  being  sore  troubled  therewith,  he  wept,  sud- 
denly cried  out,  started  from  his  bed,  called  for  help,  sought  about  the 
chamber  betwixt  sleeping  and  waking,  but  being  fully  awaked,  was  com- 
forted because  he  found  her  well.  Here  we  omit  strange  dreams  or  di- 
vinations of  divers  great  men,  which  happened  before  or  about  the  time  of 
his  sickness. 

' '  On  the  5th  of  April,  in  his  chamber  at  Kronstey,  about  six  o'clock  at 
night,  there  appeared  suddenly  a  tall  man  with  a  ghastly  and  threatening- 
countenance,  who  twice  or  thrice  seemed  to  cross  him  as  he  was  passing 
through  the  chamber ;  and  when  he  came  to  the  same  part  of  the  chamber 
where  this  shadow  appeared,  he  presently  fell  sick,  and  there  vomited 
thrice.  And  yet  Goborne,  one  of  his  secretaries  attending  then  upon  him, 
saAy  nothing,  which  more  amazed  him.  The  same  night  he  dreamed  he 
was  in  fighting  twice  or  thrice  stabbed  to  the  heart,  also  wounded  in  many 
other  places  of  his  body. 

"  The  10th  of  April,  about  midnight,  was  found  in  his  bed-chamber,  by 
one  master  Halsall,  an  image  of  wax  with  hair,  like  unto  the  hair  of  his 

Honour's 

*  Idyll, 


KNOWSLEY.  33 

He  is  represented  here  at  full  length,  in  a  high-crowned 
hat,  and  in  the  dress  of  the  time  of  James  I.  His  death  in 
1  (342  made  way  for  his  illustrious  son  Ja?nes,  the  seventh  James,  seventh 

Earl  of  Derby. 

Earl,  distinguished  by  his  hospitality,  courage,  loyalty,  and 
tragical  end.     He  was  so  esteemed  in  his  country,  that, 

when 

Honour's  head,  twisted  through  the  belly  thereof,  from  the  navel  to  the 
secrets.  This  image  was  spotted,  as  master  Halsall  reported  unto  master 
Smyth,  one  of  his  secretaries,  a  day  before  any  pain  grew,  and  spots  ap- 
peared on  his  sides  and  belly.  This  image  was  hastily  cast  into  the  fire 
by  Mr.  Halsall  before  it  was  viewed,  because  he  thought,  by  burning  there- 
of, as  he  said,  he  should  relieve  his  Lord  from  witchcraft,  and  burn  the 
witch  who  so  much  tormented  his  Lord  ;  but  it  fell  out  contrary  to  his  love 
and  affection,  for,  after  the  melting  thereof,  he  more  and  more  declined. 

"The  12th  of  April,  owe  Jane,  a  witch,  demanded  of  Mr.  Goborne,  Avhe- 
therhis  Honour  felt  no  pain  in  his  lower  parts,  and  whether  he  made  water 
as  yet  or  no  ?  and  at  that  very  time  his  water  utterly  stopped,  and  so  re- 
mained till  he  died. 

"  Sir  Edward  Filton,  who  with  other  Justices  examined  certain  witches, 
reporteth,  that  one  of  them  being  bidden  to  say  the  Lord's  Prayer,  said  it 
well;  but  being  conjured  in  the  name  of  Jesus,  that  if  she  had  bewitched 
his  Honour  she  should  be  able  to  say  the  same,  she  never  could  repeat  that 
petition,  Forgive  us  our  trespasses  !  no,  not  although  it  was  repeated  unto 
her. 

"  A  homely  woman,  about  the  age  of  fifty,  was  found  mumbling  in.  a 
corner  of  his  Honour's  chamber;  but  what,  God  knoweth. 

"  This  wise  woman  (as  they  termed  her)  seemed  often  to  ease  his  Honour 
both  of  his  vomiting  and  hickcough  ;  but  so  it  fell  out,  which  was  strange, 
that  when  so  long  as  he  was  eased  the  woman  herself  was  troubled  most 
vehemently  in  the  same  manner,  the  matter  which  she  vomited  being  like 

f  also 


34  KNOWSLEY. 

-when  he  was  directed,  in  1042,  to  assemble  his  friends  in 
-the  county  of  Lancaster,  he  had  an  appearance,  on  three 
heaths  near  Bury,  Ormskirk,  and  Presto?i,  of  twenty  thou- 
sand men  on  each.  At  this  time  it  was  resolved  to  erect  the 
royal  standard  at  Warrington  :  by  a  fatal  change  of  councils, 
however,  the  place  was  altered  to  that  of  Nottingham,  and 
the  opportunity  lost  of  benefiting  by  the  great  interest  of 
this  family.  The  Earl  was  afterwards  sent  back  to  raise 
his  dependents:  but  in  the  interim  the  tide  of  loyalty 
turned;  numbers  determined  to  stand  neuter,  and  others 
embraced  the  opposite  party.  Still  he  raised  three  regi- 
ments 

also  unto  that  which  passed  from  him.  But  at  last,  when  this  woman  was 
found  tempering  and  blessing  (after  her  manner)  the  juice  of  certain  herbs, 
her  pot,  wherein  she  strained  the  juice,  was  tumbled  down  by  the  same  doc- 
tor, she  rated  out  of  the  chamber,  notwithstanding  she  did  still  say  that  she 
would  not  cease  to  ease  him,  although  she  could  not  perfectly  help  him, 
because  he  was  so  strangely  bewitched.  All  physic  wrought  very  well,  yet 
had  he  none  or  little  ease  thereby ;  his  diseases  were  many,  and  his  vomits 
with  stopping  his  water  grievous,  yet  ever  his  pulse  remained  as  good  and 
perfect  as  ever  it  did  in  time  of  his  best  health,  till  one  quarter  of  an  hour 
before  he  died. 

"  He  himself,  in  all  the  time  of  his  sickness,  cried  out  that  the  doctors 
laboured  in  vain,  because  he  was  certainly  bewitched.  He  fell  twice  into  a 
trance,  not  able  to  move  hand,  head  or  foot,  when  he  would  have  taken 
physic  to  do  him  good.  In  the  end  he  cried  out  against  all  witches  and 
witchcraft,  reposing  his  only  hope  of  salvation  upon  the  merits  of  Christ 
Jesus  his  saviour. 

<<  One 


KNOWSLEY.  35 

merits  of  foot,  and  three  troops  of  horse,  at  his  own  expence, 
and  delivered  them  to  his  Majesty,  to  be  commanded  as  he 
thought  proper.  He  returned  to  the  county,  then  possessed 
by  the  enemy,  took  hancaster  and  Preston  by  storm,  and 
fortified  his  house  at  Latham,  which  afterwards  found  such 
long  employ,  under  his  brave  Countess,  to  the  Parliament 
Army.  His  valour  never  shone  so  bright  as  at  his  defeat 
in  Wigan-lane,  in  his  attempt,  in  1 65  1,  to  restore  the  son 
of  his  murdered  Sovereign ;  for  with  only  six  hundred  horse 
he  maintained  a  fight  of  two  hours  against  three  thousand 
troops  led  on  by  the  determined  hilhirne.  Misfortune 
seemed  to  exalt  his  eloquence,  as  well  as  his  courage. — 
When  he  was  forced  to  take  refuge  in  the  Isle  of  Man,  in 
l64Q,  with  what  animated  disdain  did  he  return  an  answer 
to  Iretoii's  proposal  for  the  surrender!     I  will  again  repeat 

f  2  his 

"  One  excellent  speech  amongst  many  cannot  be  omitted  in  the  time  of 
his  sickness  : — The  day  before  he  departed,  at  which  time  he  desired  one  of 
his  doctors,  whom  he  especially  loved,  to  perswade  him  no  longer  to  live; 
because,  saith  he,  although  out  of  thy  love  thou  wouldst  stir  up  hopes  of 
life,  and  dost  employ  all  thy  wit,  art  and  travel  to  that  end ;  yet,  knowing 
for  a  certainty  that  I  must  now  die,  I  pray  thee  cease,  for  I  am  resolved 
presently  to  die,  and  to  take  with  me  only  one  part  of  my  arms,  I  mean 
the  eagle's  wings,  so  will  I  fly  swiftly  into  the  bosom  of  Christ  my  only 
saviour ;  and  with  that  he  sent  for  his  Lady,  and  gave  her  his  last  farewell, 
desiring  her  to  take  away  and  love  his  doctor,  and  also  to  give  him  some 
jewel  with  his  arms  and  name,  that  he  might  be  remembered  ;  Avhich 
thing  immediately  after  his  death  was  most  honourably  performed.  His 
spiritual  physicians  were,  the  Bishop  of  Chester,  and  Mr.  Lee  his  chaplain." 


30  KNOWSLEY. 

0 

his  gallant  reply;  for,  as  Mr.  Walpole  has  before  remarked, 

such  a  model  of  brave  natural  eloquence  cannot  be  thought 

tedious. 

\ 

44  I  received  your  letter  with  indignation,  and  with  scorn 
44  I  return  you  this  answer — That  I  cannot  but  wonder 
**  whence  you  should  gather  any  hopes  from  me,  that  I 
"  should  (like  you)  prove  treacherous  to  my  Sovereign; 
44  since  you  cannot  be  insensible  of  my  former  actings  in 
"  his  late  Majesty's  service,  from  which  principle  of  loyalty 
44  I  am  no  way  departed. 

"  I  scorn  your  proffers ;  I  disdain  your  favours ;  I  abhor 
44  your  treasons;  and  am  so  far  from  delivering  this  island 
44  to  your  advantage,  that  I  will  keep  it  to  the  utmost  of 
44  my  power  to  your  destruction. 

44  Take  this  final  answer,  and  forbear  any  further  solici- 
44  tations;  for,  if  you  trouble  me  with  any  more  messages 
44  upon  this  occasion,  I  will  burn  the  paper  and  hang  the 
44  bearer. 

44  This  is  the  immutable  resolution,  and  shall  be  the 
44  undoubted  practice  of  him  who  accounts  it  the  chiefest 
44  glory  to  be 

44  His  Majesty's  most  loyal 

44  and  obedient  Subject, 

44  Derby." 

Castle-Town,  July  12,  16-19. 

The 


*  ..  . 

1   4 

•  »!»• 

•  ••• 

••. 

.. .  ■ 

•         • 
••• 

. .  - . 


Charlotte.   Counters   of  Derby 

From,  art    Or'i'&vna.l  JPi-c£i4-r*ie    a.t    JCnoussle^ 


ey 


2*x*&    /un<  /     t407   by  JEstw  Jfa.rt£iny     *&  JPall  ^TaZI 


KNOWSLEY,  37 

The  treatment  he  met  with,  after  he  was  taken  at  the 
battle  of  Worcester,  was  such  as  might  be  expected  from  a 
vindictive,  ungenerous  enemy;  with  whom  his  very  virtues 
were  strong  pleas  against  mercy.  He  was  taken  under 
promise  of  quarter,  yet  was  carried  before  a  court-martial 
at  Chester,  who  not  only  condemned  him  to  death,  regard- 
less of  the  officer's  honour  to  whom  he  surrendered,  but 
had  even  the  barbarity  to  send  him  to  Bolton,  a  town  of 
his  own,  in  order  to  be  executed;  where  he  fell  with  the 
piety  of  a  Christian,  and  the  firmness  of  a  Soldier. 

The  likeness  of  his  congenial  Lady,  the  celebrated  Char-  His  Countess. 
lotte  de  la  Tremouille,  is  preserved  here — a  half  length  sit- 
ting, dressed  in  black,  with  a  white  kerchief  on  her  head, 
and  a  long  black  veil.  She  is  here  represented  in  advanced 
age:  but  there  is  a  Head  of  her  painted  much  younger;  the 
dress  white,  with  a  string  of  pearls  over  her  shoulders. 

This  heroine  was  the  daughter  of  Claude  de  la  Tremouille, 
duke  and  peer  of  France,  by  his  duchess,  daughter  to  Wll- 
Ham  prince  of  Orange,  founder  of  the  Dutch  Republic. — 
She  proved  herself  worthy  of  her  illustrious  parents,-  by  a 
series  of  gallant  actions.  Her  defence  of  Latham-house,  m 
1044,  from  February  28th  to  May  the  2/th,  may  be  ranked 
amongst  the  bravest  actions  of  those  unhappy  times.     She 

6  formed 


38  KNOWSLEY. 

formed  her  garrison,  appointed  her  officers,  and  herself 
commanded  in  chief  during  the  whole  siege,  till  it  was 
raised  by  her  loyal  Lord,  by  the  defeat  of  the  enemy  at 
Bolt o?i.  A  bomb  fell  into  the  room  where  she  and  her 
children  were  at  dinner,  and  burst  without  doing  any  in- 
.  jury.  She  immediately  ordered  a  sally,  beat  the  foes  from 
their  trenches,  and  took  the  mortar  that  was  so  nearly 
working  her  destruction.  In  the  course  of  the  siege,  she 
received  a  summons  to  surrender.  She  caught  the  spirit  of 
her  husband :  "  Tell,  fellow,"  says  she,  "  the  insolent  re- 
u  bel  who  sent  you,  that  if  he  presumes  to  send  another 
"  summons  within  these  walls,  I  will  cause  the  messenger 
"  to  be  hanged  up  at  the  gates."  This  is  commemorated 
by  a  picture  on  the  staircase,  representing  her  Ladyship 
sitting  with  the  letter  in  her  hand,  delivering  to  a  fanatical 
drummer  the  gallant  answer:  the  last  is  blind-folded,  and 
dressed  in  red.  An  officer  of  the  garrison,  in  blue,  stands 
by,  admiring  the  heroism  of  his  brave  mistress.  Her  Lady- 
ship retired  afterwards  to  the  Earl  in  the  Isle  of  Man,  and 
continued  there  till  after  his  unfortunate  end,  when  she 
was  betrayed  and  imprisoned,  and  reduced  to  such  distress 
as  to  live  on  the  alms  of  the  impoverished  royalists  till  the 
Restoration,  which  she  survived  four  years. 

Her  Mother.        The  portrait  of  her  mother,    Charlotte  B?~abantine  de 

Nassau, 


KNOWSLEY.  39 

Nassau,  youngest  daughter  to  William  I.  prince  of  Orange; 
the  dress  black,  and  her  ruff  of  an  enormous  size. 

His  son  Charles  was  successor  to  his  title  and  loyalty. —  Charles, 
He  joined  Sir  George  Booth  and  other  insurgents  in  165C).Derby 
On  the  defeat  of  that  enterprize,  he  was  taken  prisoner,  and 
confined,  till  the  following  year  gave  freedom,  but  not  con- 
tent, to  the  long-depressed  royalists.  On  the  Restoration, 
the  Lords  attempted  to  do  justice  to  those  who  had  been 
deprived  of  their  fortunes  by  the  usurping  powers.  They 
formed  a  private  bill  for  the  purpose  of  restoring  this  loyal 
Peer  to  those  estates  which  he  had  lost:  this  was  strongly 
opposed,  and  at  length  laid  aside,  without  ever  coming  to 
a  second  reading #.  The  King  was  innocent  of  the  rejec- 
tion, for  it  never  came  before  him  for  his  assent ;  yet  an  ill- 
judged  resentment  of  the  son  of  this  noble  Earl  induced  him 
to  cause  this  calumniating  inscription  to  be  placed  over  one 
of  the  doors  of  Knowsley  : 

"  James  earl  of  Derby,  lord  of  Man  and  the  Isles,  and 
'-'  grandson  of  James  earl  of  Derby,  and  of  Charlotte  daugh- 
"  ter  of  Claude  duke  de  la  Tremouille,  whose  husband, 
"  James,  was  beheaded  at  Bolton,  15th  October  1052,  for 
"  strenuously  adhering  to  Charles  II.  who  refused  a  Bill 

"  passed 
*  See  Tour  in  Wales,  95.  Drakes  Parliam.  Hist,  xxiii.  50,  53. 


I 

( 


40  KNOWSLEY. 

**  passed  unanimously  by  both  Houses  of  Parliament,  for 
"  restoring  to  the  family  the  estate  lost  by  the  family  for 
"  their  loyalty." 

We  may  allow  the  family  to  be  a  little  out  of  humour 
with  its  misfortunes ;  for  William  earl  of  Derby  used  to  say, 
that  he  never  passed  by  any  estate  of  his  in  Yorkshire, 
Westmoreland,  Cumberland,  Warwickshire,  Lancashire,  Che- 
shire, or  Wales,  but  he  saw  a  greater  near  it  lost  by  the 
fidelity  of  his  ancestor  to  the  royal  cause. 

Here  is  a  portrait,  on  wood,  of  Henry  of  Cross-hall  and 
Bickerstajf- — a  sour  figure  in  a  ruff  and  bonnet.  The  date 
is  1582,  his  age  67.  This  gentleman  was  son  to  Sir  James 
Stanley,  second  son  of  George  lord  Strange,  and  took  his 
addition  from  his  marriage  with  Mary,  sole  heiress  of  Peter 
Stanley  of  Bickerstajf,  whose  figure  is  also  preserved  here, 
dressed  in  a  black  cap,  small  ruff,  and  enriched  with  gold 
chains.  From  them  the  present  worthy  Earl  derives  his 
descent. 

A  very  bad  painting  by  Hamlet   Winstanley,  represents 
the  late  worthy  Earl,  his  Lady,  and  their  eight  children. — 
There  is  also  a  portrait  of  his  son,  the  late  Lord  Strange, 
by  Hudson,  dressed  by  the  painter  injudiciously  half  mo- 
dern 


KNOWSLEY.  4 1 

dern  Fandyek.  This  useful  Nobleman  gave  his  active  life 
to  Parliamentary  business,  and  died,  regretted  by  his  coun- 
try, June  1,  1771  • 

On  the  stair-case  is  a  gigantic  figure  of  John  Middleton, 
commonly  called  the  Child  of  Hale,  who  was  born  in  1578, 
and  buried  in  1628,  at  Hale,  in  this  neighbourhood.  A 
picture  is  preserved  of  him  at  Hale-hall;  another  in  the 
Museum  at  Oxford;  but  we  learn  no  more  of  him  than  that 
his  height  was  eight  feet. 

Besides  the  portraits,  here  is  preserved  a  most  capital 
collection  of  pictures,  by  the  greatest  masters.  The  ra- 
pidity with  which  I  was  hurried  through  the  house  prevents 
me  from  giving  so  full  an  account  of  them  as  they  deserve. 
I  was  extremely  struck  with  a  Holy  Family,  by  Titian,  full 
of  the  great  tenderness  of  the  parents  and  the  sweet  inno- 
cency  of  the  children. 

A  most  admirable  picture  of  the  Feast  of  Belshazzar,  by 
Rembrandt;  the  horror  of  the  king,  and  the  fears  of  his 
luxurious  attendants  at  the  appearance  of  the  hand-writing, 
are  expressed  in  the  most  affecting  manner.  • 

The  Roman  Augur\  a  fine  piece,  by  Sahator  Rosa. 

Banditti,  by  the  same  master;  the  rocky  scenery  and 
trees  in  his  best  manner. 

g  Two 


12  KNOWSLEY. 

Two  most  curious  and  beautiful  studies  of  his,  stained  on 
wood :  one  is  the  History  of  the  Good  Samaritan ;  the  other 
the  Temptation  of  our  Saviour  in  the  Wilderness.  It  is  sin- 
gular that  a  good  Catholic  should  represent  the  Devil  in  the 
habit  of  a  monk.     The  oaks  very  magnificent. 

Hagar  and  Ishmael  with  the  Angela  by  the  same. 

The  Book  with  Seven  Seals  ;  a  subject  taken  from  the 
Revelations.  The  Almighty,  the  Lamb,  Angels,  Altars  and 
People,  placed  on  the  clouds,  form  this  very  singular  com- 
position. 

The  Angel  driving  Adam  and  Eve  out  of  Paradise,  by 
Denis  Calvart,  a  Flemish  painter,  but  by  travel  improved 
into  the  best  manner  of  the  Italian  school. 

Hunting  the  Wild  Boar,  a  joint  work  of  Rubens  and  Sny- 
ders.  These  two  great  painters  often  worked  in  conjunc- 
tion, each  being  sensible  of  their  respective  excellencies. 

The  Arts  inquiring  of  the  Genius  of  Rome  the  Cause  of 
their  Decline.  The  latter  points  to  the  clouds,  where  are 
sitting,  Time,  Famine,  and  War. 

A  Flight  into  Egypt — The  Holy  Family  on  the  point  of 
taking  boat ;  numbers  of  Angels  floating  in  the  air  :  by 
Luca  Jordano. 

Another  by  Ponte  Bassano,  and  a  third  by  Castiglione, 
with  abundance  of  furniture,  pots,  .and  dead  game  lying  on 
the  ground. 

6  A 


KNOWSLEY.  43 

A  large  Piece  of  Ruins. 

A  fine  Landscape  by  Poussin,  with  a  mountain,  castle, 
and  distant  view. 

fH&  Feast,  by  Paul  Veronese,  in  a  gallery.  The  princi- 
pal figures  are  our  Saviour  and  his  Disciples.  Most  gro- 
tesque figures  of  Dwarfs  are  introduced  in  conformity  to  the 
custom  of  the  age  of  the  painter. 

A  Holy  Family,  consisting  of  the  Virgin,  Joseph,  our  Sa- 
viour, and  St.  John-,  and  an  old  woman  instructing  our 
Saviour  to  read. 

Our  Saviour  delivering  the  Keys  to  Peter,  a  capital  piece 
by  Vandyck. 

The  Virgin,  with  our  Saviour  in  her  arms',  placed  in  the 
clouds,  surrounded  with  Angels — a  most  divine  look  in  the 
face  of  the  Virgin. 

The  Wife  of  Pilate  interceding  with  her  Husband  for  the 
Life  of  our  Saviour. — They  appear  descending  from  the  hall 
of  judgment.  The  woman  seems  to  apply  with  great  zeal 
and  earnestness  to  Pilate,  who  appears  going  down  the 
steps  in  full  armour. — By  Paid  Veronese. 

Some  of  the  Cartoons  in  water  colours. 

A  Nativity,  and  the  Shepherds  bringing  gifts.  The  awk- 
ward rusticity  of  the  country  people  admirably  expressed. 

A  Circumcision,  with  great  devotion  in  the  looks  of  all 
the  assistants. 

g  2  A 


44  KNOWSLEY. 

A  beautiful  Madona,  leaning  with  inexpressible  affection 
over  her  child  sleeping  in  her  lap :   above  is  an  Angel. 

The  Head  of  a  Woman  in  high  devotion. 

A  fine  picture  of  the  Brazen  Serpent,  with  numbers  of 
figures,  many  dead,  others  eagerly  looking  at  the  saving 
image. 

The  fable  of  Glaucus  and  Scylla,  a  small  but  fine  piece 
by  S.  Rosa.  The  Lady  flies,  as  might  be  expected,  from 
the  monstrous  deity.  The  scenery  and  figure  answer  faithr 
fully  to  the  description  left  us  by  the  Poet : 

"  Ante  fretum  est  ingens  apicem  collectus  in  unam, 
"  Longe  sine  arboribus  convexus  ad  Eequora  vertex, 
"  Constitit  hie  :  et  tuta  loco  monstrumne,  Deusne, 
"  Hie  sit  ignorans,  admiraturque  colorem : 
"  Ceesariemque  humeros  subjectaque  terga  tenentem/. 
"  Ultimaque  excipiat  quod  tortilis  inguinas  piscis." 

"  Steep  shelving  to  the  margin  of  the  flood,    - 

"  A  neighb'ring  mountain  bare  and  woodless  stood : 

"  Here,  by  the  place  secured,  her  steps  she  stay'd, 

"  And  trembling  stilL  her  lover's  form  survey'd : 

*.*  His  shape,  his  hue,  her  troubled  sense  appall, 

"  And  dropping  locks  that  q]er  his  shoulders  fall : 

"  She  sees  his  face  divine,  and  manly  brow, 

"  End  in  a  fish's  wreathy  tail  below." 

Rowe. 

Jacob 


KNOWSLEY.  45 

Jacob  a?id  his  Flock,  by  Ponte  Bassano. 

Our  Saviour  and  the  Samaritan  Woman,  by  the  sweet 
and  high-finishing  pencil  of  Adrian  Vanderwerf. 

A  most  exquisite  small  painting  of  Horses  drinking,  by 
Wouverman. 

A  large  picture  of  a  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Vandyck. 

The  Host  of  Pharaoh  in  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  Israelites 
on  the  Shore — a  gay  picture,  by  old  Franks. 

The  Love  of  the  Arts,  represented  by  a  beautiful  Cupid 
leaning  over  rich  armour,  musical  instruments,  pictures  and 
sculptures;  said  by  Winstanley  to  be  the  joint  work  of  Sny— 
ders  and  Vandyck. 

An  AngeVs,  Head,  by  Guido. 

A  most  horribly  fine  picture  of  St.  Bartholomew.  The 
painter,  Spagnolet,  who  dealt  in  dreadful  subjects,  and  par- 
ticularly in  martyrdoms,  to  please  the  gloom  and  supersti- 
tion of  his  cotemporary  countrymen,  has  selected  the  in- 
stant when  the  executioner  had  begun  that  of  the  Saint, 
who  is  tied  by  one  leg  and  one  arm  to  the  stumps  of  some 
ancient  trees.  The  Bourreau  had  begun  the  incision  in  the 
arm,  stuck  his  knife  in  one  of  the  trees,  and  having  intro- 
duced his  finger  under  the  skin,  seems  to  begin  the  opera- 
tion with  a  savage  grin  and  delight. 

Two  Pieces  by  candle-light,  Schalken. 

Judith  and  her  Maid,  with  the  Head  of  Holofemes. 

Two 


46  KNOWSLEY. 

Two  Philosophers  studying,  leaning  on  a  Sphere. 

The  Death  of  Seneca. 

hot  and  his  Daughters ;  a  fine  ebriety  in  the  Face  of  the 
-old  man. 

Nicodemus  communing  with  our  Saviour  by  night ;  a  ca- 
pital piece  by  Tintoret. 

The  Madona  and  Chilk  attended  by  Angels.  Our  Sa- 
viour is  made  guilty  of  a  very  common  anachronism  in 
these  pious  subjects,  delivering  a  lily  to  St.  Francis. 

Four  large  pieces  painted  on  gilt  leather,  by  Borgognme, 
have,  since  my  first  visit  to  this  place,  been  added  to  the 
collection.  Two  are  Battle-pieces;  the  third,  a  Turkish 
March;  and  the  fourth,  the  Destruction  of  Pharaoh  m  the 
Red  Sea. 

Almost  the  whole  of  this  valuable  collection  was  formed 
by  James  earl  of  Derby,  who  sent  Mr.  Winstanley  abroad 
for  that  purpose.  In  the  years  1728  and  172Q,  this  cele- 
brated painter  etched  twenty  of  the  finest  of  these  pic- 
tures. 

i  here  take  the  liberty  of  correcting  a  mistake  of  Mr. 
Walpole,  who  was  misled,  by  the  similitude  of  name,  to 
confound  Winstanley  the  engineer,  who  built  the  Eddy- 
stone 


CROXTETH.— SEFTON.  47 

stone  light-house,  with  this  person.  The  painter  was  a 
native  of  Warrington,  second  son  of  William  Wi?ista?iley ; 
was  brought  up  a  painter,  and  patronised  by  James  earl  of 
Derby.  He  was  buried  in  the  church-yard  at  Warrington, 
dying,  as  his  epitaph  informs  us,  on  the  20th  of  May  1 75(3, 
aged  sixty. 

After  leaving  K?iowsley,  I  took  a  descending  course  north- 
west. On  the  left  lies  Croxteth,  a  large  stone  house,  re-  Croxteth. 
built  by  William  Lord  Molyneux,  grandfather  to  the  pre- 
sent Lord  Sefton,  and  is  the  residence  of  the  family;  and 
descended  into  a  dull  flat,  which  continues  for  some  miles, 
in  one  place  enlivened  by  the  canal  now  forming  to  give  the 
distant  Leeds  a  port  for  its  flourishing  woollen  manufacture, 
and  to  benefit  a  tract  of  country  of  a  hundred  and  eight  miles 
extent  by  a  water  communication  with  the  port  of  Liverpool. 
Besides  Leeds,  Bradford,  Keighly,  Skipton,  Co  hi,  Clithero, 
Blackburn,  Preston,  Wigan  and  Qrmskirk  will  share  in  some 
measure  the  advantage. 

By  noon  I  reached  the  village  of  Sefton,  placed  on  a  vast      sefton. 
range  of  fine  meadows,  that  reach  almost  to  the  sea,  and 
jn  a  great  measure  supply  Liverpool  with  hay.     It  is  wa- 
tered by  the  Alt,  a  small  trout  stream ;  but,  after  the  first 

winter 


48  ;         SEFTON. 

winter  flood,  is  covered  with  water  the  whole  season,  by 
reason  of  want  of  fall  to  convey  it  away. 

Here  stood  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Molynenxes,  where 
their  Norman  ancestor,  William  de  Moulins,  settled  on  the 
grant  made  him  by  Roger  de  Poictiers,  to  whom  the  Con- 
queror had  given  all  the  lands  between  the  Ribble  and  the 
Mersey.  Before  that  event  this  manor  was  held  by  five 
Thanes:  here  was  one  hide  worth  sixteen  shillings*. 

The  church  is  a  large  and  handsome  edifice ;  consisting 
of  a  body,  and  two  ailes  battlemented  and  crenelled.  The 
steeple  is  an  elegant  spire,  injured  by  four  short  clumsy 
pyramids  at  its  base :  the  windows  are  obtuse,  Gothic.  The 
present  church  was  built  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.,  as  is 
said,  by  Anthony  Molyneux,  rector  of  the  place,  a  celebrated 
preacher,  and  distinguished  for  his  acts  of  piety -J\ 

The  chancel  is  divided  by  a  screen  from  the  body  of 
the  church,  and  contains  sixteen  stalls  of  elegant  sculp- 
ture. Here,  for  a  series  of  ages,  has  been  the  sepulture 
of  the  family  ;  and  still  are  preserved  the  monumental  me- 
morials of  several  of  this  respectable  race.     Names  are 

wanting 
#  Doomsday  Book.  f  Br.  Magna,  ii.  1282.     Lodge's  Irish  Peerage. 

3 


»  *  *  j 


6 


SEFTON.  49 

wanting  to  two  cross-legged  figures  in  stone,  with  shields  tri- 
angular, expressive  of  their  profession  of  Knights  Templars. 
These  effigies  are  drawn  in  a  book  in  the  Heralds'  Office, 
from  a  fine  pedigree  sent  there  by  Lord  Sefton.  Around  an 
altar-tomb,  of  white  marble,  is  an  inscription  in  memory  of 
Sir  Richard  Molyneux,  who  died  in  143Q,  and  Joan  his  Wife. 
He  was  Lord  of  Bradley,  Haydike,  Warrington,  Newton, 
Burton-wode,  and  Newton-in-tke-dale ;  distinguished  him- 
self in  the  battle  of  Agincoart,  and  received  the  honour  of 
knighthood  from  Henry  V, 

The  figures  of  Sir  William  Molyneux,  his  two  Wives,  and 
thirteen  Children,  are  expressed  in  brass  plates.  I  am  too 
much  pleased  with  the  simplicity  of  the  epitaph,  not  to 
transcribe  it: 

"  Sir  Richarde  Molyneux,  and  Dame  Elenore,  his  Wyffe, 
"  whose  Soules  GOD p'don  ! 

"  Dame  Worshope  was  my  guide  in  life, 

"  And  did  my  doinges  guide ; 
"  Dame  Wertue  left  me  not  alone, 

"  When  Soule  from  Bodye  hyed. 
"  And  thoughe  that  Deathe  with  dinte  of  darte, 

"  Hath  brought  my  corps  on  sleepe, 
"  The  eternall  God  my  eternall  Soule 

"  Eternally  doeth  kepe." 

H  This 


50  SEFTON. 

This  gentleman  was  knighted  at  the  coronation  of  Queen 
Mary,  and  died  in  15(38. 

My  pen  has  carried  me  on  so  rapidly  that  I  omitted  in  its 
place  the  mention  of  the  valiant  father  of  the  last,  another 
William,  who  also  appears,  with  his  two  wives,  in  brass.  He 
distinguished  himself  in  three  actions  against  the  Scots  in  the 
,  time  of  Henry  VIII.  and  in  that  of  Floddon  with  his  own 
hand  took  two  banners.  The  Lancashire  archers  contri- 
buted much  to  the  victory ;  and  He?iry,  under  his  own  seal, 
sent  Sir  William  a  letter  of  thanks  for  his  share  in  it.  He 
died  in  1548. 

On  a  flat  stone  is  preserved  the  memory  of  Caryl  lord 
Molyneux,  an  eminent  but  unsuccessful  royalist:  his  fa- 
mily raised  a  regiment  of  foot  and  another  of  horse  in  sup- 
port of  Charles  I.  This  brought  on  him,  during  the  usurp- 
ation, heavy  penalties  ;  and,  on  the  accession  of  James  IL 
those  honours  by  which  the  bigoted  Prince  distinguished 
such  who  retained  the  ancient  religion. 

Here  are  other  inscriptions  in  the  broken  painted  glass 
of  the  windows,  recording  their  respective  makers.     Among 
them  are  one  to  Molyneux,  dated  1542;  another  to  Mar- 
garet 


■  i   1 1 


«  •   •  •         ,       * 


.:•/ 


S 


< 

s 


LYDIATE  CHAPEL.  5 1 

garet  Bulcley,  daughter  to  Sir  Richard  Molyneux,  date  1543 ; 
and  a  third  to  an  Ireland  of  Lydiate,  dated  1540. 

A  ride  of  two  miles  from  hence  brought  me  to  the  ruins 
of  Lydiate  Chapel,  a  small  but  most  beautiful  building  with 
a  tower  steeple,  with  pinnacles  and  battlements  venerably 
overgrown  in  many  parts  with  ivy.  It  had  been  a  Chapel 
of  Ease  to  the  parish  church  of  Halsal,  dedicated  to  St.  Ca- 
therine, and  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  one  of  the 
Ir elands  of  Lydiate-hall :  over  the  door  are  the  letters 
L.  I.  for  Lawrence  Ireland  probably  the  founder.  It  is  at 
present  owned  by  Henry  Blundell  esq.  of  Ince,  by  descent 
from  the  heiress  of  the  estate. 

Four  miles  farther  lies  Ormskirk,  a  neat  town,  with  four  ormskirk. 
well-built  streets  crossing  each  other.  Its  only  trade  is  the 
spinning  of  cotton  for  the  Manchester  manufactures,  and 
thread  for  sail-cloth.  If  has  long  been  in  possession  of  a 
fair  and  market,  by  virtue  of  a  grant  of  Edward  I.  (con- 
firmed by  Edward  II.)  to  the  Canons  of  Burscough,  to 
whom  the  church  and  manor  belonged ;  given  them  by 
Robert  Fitzhe?iry  lord  of  Latham  *.  In  lieu  of  toll  and 
stallage,  they  were  bound  to  pay  annually,  at  Liverpool,  for 
the  use  of  Edmund  earl  of  Lancaster,  one  mark,  as  long  as 

h  2  the 

*  Dugdade,   11,  304. 


52  ORMSKIRK. 

the  market  endured.       This   manor  now  belongs  to  the 
Earl  of  Derby. 

The  church  is  seated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  and 
is  remarkable  for  its  two  steeples,  placed  contiguous;  the 
one  a  tower,  the  other  a  squat  spire.  In  a  chapel  is  the 
vault  of  the  Derby  family,  the  deposit  of  its  illustrious  dust 
since  the  dissolution  of  monasteries.  That  I  might  lose 
nothing  that  was  to  be  seen,  the  sexton  flung  open  both 
the  folding  doors,  and  presented  the  humiliating  sight  of 
coffin  piled  on  coffin,  with  such  an  eruption  of  musty  air 
as  thoroughly  confirmed  me  in  my  opinion  of  the  impro- 
priety of  this  species  of  interment. 

Two  figures  of  StanJies ;  short  hair,  hands  closed,  he- 
ralds' mantles  and  arms. 

Two  Ladies  in  close-bodied  gowns ;  one  with  an  Earl's 
coronet. 

A  Scaresbrick,  on  an  altar-tomb,  in  a  herald's  mantle, 
with  arms  in  shields  on  the  sides. 

The  four  first  were  removed  from  Burscough  priory  at 
the  time  of  the  dissolution.  These  probably  were  the  first 
Earl  of  Derby  and  his  two  wives ;  the  Lady  with  the  coro- 
net, his  second  wife,  the  Countess  of  Richmond-,  for  the 

first, 


ORMSKIRK.— BURSCOUGH  PRIORY.  53 

first,  who  was  sister  to  the  famous  Richard  earl  of  War- 
wick, died  before  he  was  created  Earl.  The  Earl,  in  his 
will,  mentions  personages  which  he  had  caused  to  be  made 
for  his  father,  mother,  grandfather  and  grandmother,  at 
Burscough.  Probably  all,  except  the  above,  were  destroyed 
at  the  dissolution. 

At  about  two  miles  distant  from  Ormskirk  I  turned  into 
a  field  to  visit  the  site  of  the  Priory  of  Burscough,  founded   burscough; 
in  the  time  of  Richard  I.  by  Robert  Fitzhenry  lord  of  La- 
tha?n,  under  the  tutelage  of  St,  Nicholas.     At  the  time  of 
the  dissolution  it  maintained  a  Prior  and  five  Canons  of  the 
Augustine  order,  and  forty  servants ;  endowed,  according  to 
one  valuation,  with  80l.  7s.  6d.  annual  income ;  to  another, 
with  1221.  5s.  (3d.;  or,  as  Speed  has  it,  with  12Ql.  Is.  10d.* 
Nothing  is  left  of  this  pile  but  part  of  the  centre  arch  of 
the  church;  and,  instead  of  the  magnificent  tombs  of  the 
Stanlies,  which  till  the  reformation  graced  the  place,  a  few 
modern  grave-stones  peep  through  the  grass,  memorials  of 
poor  Catholics,  who  fondly  prefer  this  now  violated  spot.    ' 
Robert  endowed  it  with  considerable  property,  emoluments, 
and  alms;  for  the  sake  of  the  souls  of  Henry  II. ,  of  John 
earl  of  Morton,  his  own,  and  that  of  his  wife,  and  those  of 
all  his  ancestors,  wishing  the  kingdom  of  Heave/?   to  all 

that 

*  Tanner,  231. 


54  BURSCOUGH  PRIORY.— LATHAM. 

that  would  increase  these  deeds  of  charity,  and  giving  to 
the  devil  and  his  angels  any  that  should  be  so  impious  as 
to  infringe  his  bequests*. 

John  Barf o?i,  the  last  Prior,  was  among  those  who  sub- 
scribed to  the  King's  supremacy,  and  received  a  pension  of 
1 31.  6s.  8d:  which  was  paid  in  trust,  for  his  use,  to  Rannlph 
Poole  and  James  Skaresbroke,  as  late  as  1553.  At  that 
time  there  remained  in  charge,  out  of  the  revenues  of  the 
house,  11.  13s.  4d.  in  annuities,  and  a  pension  of  131.  6s.  8d. 
to  one  Hugh  Huxley "j-*. 

At  a  little  distance  east  of  Burscotigh,  on  an  eminence, 
stands  Latham-hall,  a  palace  built  by  Sir  Thomas  Booth 
knight,  Chancellor  to  Frederick  late  Prince  of  Wales.  He 
was  bred  to  the  law,  and  raised  by  his  profession  vast 
wealth.  He,  dying  a  bachelor,  left  his  estates  to  his  bro- 
ther, who  had  been  captain  of  an  East  India  ship,  whose 
only  daughter  transferred  them  into  the  honourable  House 
of  Wilbraham,  by  marrying  with  Richard,  son  of  the  honest 
advocate  Randle  Wilbraham,  a  cadet  of  the  House  of 
Towns  end  oi  Nantwich,  who  had  raised  a  large  fortune 
with  a  most  unblemished  character. 

Latham 

*  Dugdale  11,  304.  t  Willis' s  Abbies,  11,  105. 


LATHAM.  55 

Latham  is  placed  on  a  most  barren  spot,  and  commands 
a  view  as  extensive  as  dull.  The  back-front  was  begun  by 
William  earl  of  Derby ;  the  rest  completed  in  a  most  mag- 
nificent manner  by  Sir  Thomas  Beetle.  The  house  consists 
of  a  ground  floor,  principal,  and  attic  ;  has  a  rustic  base- 
ment, with  a  double  flight  of  steps  to  the  first  story.  The 
front  extends  a  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet,  and  has  nine 
windows  on  each  floor:  the  offices  are  joined  to  it,  by  a 
corridor  supported  by  pillars  of  the  Ionic  order. 

The  hall  is  nearly  a  square — 40  feet  by  42;  its  height 
36;  the  saloon  3Q  by  24.  On  this  floor  are  thirteen  apart- 
ments. 

The  ancient  Latham,  the  celebrated  seat  of  nobility  and 
hospitality,  stood  between  the  north-east  offices  of  the  pre- 
sent house  and  the  kitchen-garden.  This  place,  with  vast 
property,  belonged  to  the  Lathams  till  the  year  130Q, 
when,  by  the  death  of  Sir  Thomas  de  Latham,  it  fell  to  Sir 
John  Stanley,  knight  of  the  garter,  second  brother  of  Sir 
William  Stanley  of  Hooton,  in  right  of  Isabel  daughter  of 
Sir  Thomas,  who  married  into  the  fortunate  house,  and 
laid  the  foundation  of  its  greatness. 

Notice  has  before  been  taken  of  the  share  his  grandson,, 
3  Sir 


56  LATHAM. 

Sir  Thomas  first  earl  of  Derby,  had  in  the  placing  on  the 
throne  Henry  VII.  In  his  absence,  during  the  preceding 
commotions,  ballad  authority  tells  me  that  the  old  house  of 
Latham  was  ruined,  and  that,  on  his  return,  he  rebuilt  it 
with  great  magnificence. 

"  When  place  and  weete  and  wisdom  called 

"  Home  this  Earle  to  rest, 
"  He  viewed  his  antient  seate,  and  saw 

"  The  ruines  of  his  nest : 
"  And  pull'd  it  downe,  and  from  the  ground 

"  New-builded  Lalham-hall, 
"  So  spatious  that  it  can  receive 

"  Two  kings,  their  trains  and  all." 

The  Bard  appears  to  have  a  strong  partiality  to  the  place, 
by  the  following  lines,  after  mentioning  the  visit  the  Earl 
was  honoured  with  by  his  son-in-law  Henry  VII.  who  was 
so  struck  with  the  place  as  to  build  a  palace  on  the  same 
model : 

"  At  his  home  cominge  pull'd  downe  Richmont, 

V  Faire  in  men's  estimation, 
"  And  built  it  new  in  all  respects, 

"  Like  Latham-hall  in  fashion." 

The  form  of  this  house  may  in  a  great  measure  be  col- 
lected from  the  state  it  was  in  immediately   before   the 

noted 


LATHAM.  57 

noted  siege  in  the  last  century.  In  the  centre  was  a  lofty 
tower  called  the  Eagles  :  it  had  two  courts ;  for  mention 
is  made  of  a  strong  and  high  gateway  before  the  first.— 
The  whole  was  surrounded  with  a  wall  two  yards  thick, 
flanked  by  nine  towers,  and  this  again  guarded  by  a  moat 
eight  yards  wide  and  two  deep. 

Such  was  its  situation  in  February  1644,  when  it  was 
possessed  by  the  heroic  Countess ;  who,  receiving  a  sum- 
mons from  Sir  Thomas  Fairfax,  with  an  offer  of  most  ho- 
nourable terms,  replied,  "  That  she  was  there  in  a  double 
"  trust — of  faith  to  her  husband,  and  allegiance  to  her  So- 
"  vereign;  and  that  she  meant  to  preserve  her  honour  and 
"  obedience,  though  in  her  own  ruin."  She  was  as  good 
as  her  word;  for,  during  the  space  of  sixteen  months,  with 
the  assistance  of  a  set  of  gallant  officers  appointed  and 
commanded  by  herself,  she  repelled  every  effort  to  reduce 
the  place.  Colonel  Edward  Chisenhall  was  one  of  the 
gallant  officers  who  commanded  under  her.  Hearing  that 
the  enemy  boasted  of  their  store  of  provision,  he  sallied 
out,  and,  as  the  expression  was,  "  stole  their  dinner."  With 
a  fortitude  beyond  her  sex,  she  endured  all  the  miseries 
of  a  siege,  and  beheld,  with  as  little  emotion  as  Charles  XII 
a  bomb  fall  through  the  room  where  she  and  her  children 
were  at  dinner.     At  length  she  was  relieved  by  the  royal 

1  forces 


58  LATHAM. 

forces  under  Prince  Rupert  and  her  Lord,  when  she  re- 
tired from  the  place,  recommending,  as  Governor,  Captain 
Edward  Raws  thorn*,  who,  with  the  spirit  of  his  Mistress, 
endured  another  siege  till  the  ruin  of  the  royal  cause  ;  and,  - 
by  the  royal  command,  he  yielded  up  the  house  to  Colonel 
Booth,  December  5,  1645.  The  reduction  was  thought 
of  such  importance  that  public  thanks  were,  by  order  of 
Parliament,  given  by  the  Ministers  of  London  in  all  the 
churches^.  The  place  was  dismantled  the  following  year: 
all  the  floors  and  wainscotting  were  sold  for  541.  7s.  10d. 
Knowsley  was,  by  order  of  the  ruling  powers,  repaired  with 
the  lead  from  hence. 

On  the  Restoration  it  was  repossessed  by  the  family; 
was  repaired,  and  even  inhabited  the  beginning  of  this  cen- 
tury, when  the  Eagle  Tower  and  some  parts  of  the  wooden 
house  were  standing.  The  house,  and  this  part  of  the 
estate,  were  transferred  to  John  lord  Ashburnham,  by  his 
marriage  in  1714  with  Henrietta  daughter  of  WilUam 
ninth  earl  of  Derby.  Lord  Ashbiimham  sold  it  to  a  Fur- 
ness,  who  soon  disposed  of  it  to  Sir  Thomas  Bootle.  >  I  have 
more  than  once  heard  a  relation,  which,  if  well  founded, 
is  a  wonderful  instance  of  the  retribution  of  Providence, 
the  instability  of  all  human  tenure,  and  the  strange  changes 

of 
*  Hist.  Stanley  Fam.  112.  t  Whitelock,  182. 


LATHAM.  59 

of  fortune  in  families,  which  ought  to  instil  a  most  humiliat- 
ing lesson  into  the  Great.  Previous  to  the  siege  of  La- 
tham, one  Booth  (said  to  have  been  ancestor  to  Sir  Thomas) 
was  porter  to  the  Noble  owner.  He  is  said  to  have  taken  . 
a  voluntary  oath  of  loyalty,  but  afterwards  sided  with  the 
Parliament.  At  the  storming  of  Bolton,  he  had  a  Captain's 
command  in  the  town;  when  surrounded  by  the  royalists, 
and  seeing  his  old  master  near  him,  he  applied  to  his  Lord- 
ship for  quarter:  the  fellow  perished  in  the  rage  of  the  as- 
sault. His  descendants  possess  the  most  ancient  property 
of  the  Peer,  to  whom  he  had  sued  in  vain. 

Another  singular  anecdote  is  preserved,  serving  to  shew 
the  pride  of  high  lineage,  and  the  vanity  of  low.  The  late 
Earl  of  Derby  had  on  sale  a  place  near  Liverpool  called 
Booth,  which  Sir  Thomas  was  particularly  desirous  of, 
through  the  ambition  of  being  thought  to  have  been  de- 
rived from  some  antient  stock.  The  Earl  refused  to  part 
with  it  to  this  new  man,  who  with  proper  spirit  sent  his 
Lordship  word,  (Latham  being  then  to  be  sold,)  that  if  he 
would  not  let  him  be  Booth  of  Booth,  he  was  resolved  to  be 
Booth  of  Latham. 

Possibly  the  family  of  the  Booties  may  have  been,  through 
envy,  depreciated ;  for,  when  Sir  William  Dugdah  made  his 

1  2  visitation 


60  LATHAM. 

visitation  of  Lancashire,  in  1(504,  Thomas  Booth  of  Mel- 
ling  was  summoned,  with  other  Gentry  of  the  county,  and 
entered  his  pedigree.  It  appeared  that  they  had  then  been 
settled  there  four  generations,  though  a  family  ?wn  arma 
gerens,  those  they  assumed  being  the  property  of  Ponsonby 
earl  of  Besborough.  This  Thomas  was  either  grandfather 
or  great-grandfather  of  Sir  Thomas  Bootle,  knight. 

Alms-houses.  6  Near  the  house  is  a  small  chapel  and  some  alms-houses, 
founded,  I  think,  by  one  of  the  Stanleys.  A  chaplain  be-r 
longs  to  them,  who  bears  the  title  of  Almoner  of  Latham. 

Before  I  quit  Latham  I  must  not  forget  the  romance  of 
Oskytel,  the  person  to  whom  the  Stanleys  owe  the  cogni- 
zance of  the  Eagle  and  Child.  A  certain  Sir  Thomas  de 
Latham,  in  a  century  uncertain,  found  himself,  in  a  very 
advanced  age,  childless,  and  in  possession  of  an  antiquated 
lady.  In  hopes  of  posterity,  he  entered  on  an  intrigue  with 
a  fair  vassal  in  the  neighbourhood,  who,  in  consequence, 
bore  to  him  a  son.  It  was  the  wish  of  Sir  Thomas  to  adopt 
the  child,  and  to  introduce  him  into  the  family.  In  order 
to  do  it  unsuspected  by  the  lady,  he  caused  it  to  be  placed 
well  swaddled  in  an  eagle's  nest  in  Terston-wood,  immediately 
before  he  had  artfully  drawn  his  wife  on  a  walk  that  way. 
The  cries  of  the  infant  were  soon  heard :  it  was  relieved 

from 


LATHAM.— ECCLESTON.  6 1 

from  its  situation,  pitied  by  the  lady,  who  considered  it  as 
a  heaven-sent  gift  in  compassion  to  her  sterility,  took  it 
home,  and,  ignorant  of  the  deceit,  educated  it  with  all  the 
fondness  of  a  natural  mother. 

From  Latham  I  descended  and  passed  over  Hosier-moss, 
leaving  on  the  right  some  beautiful  hills  wooded  and  well 
cultivated ;  crossed  the  river  Douglas  at  Newburgh,  and  here 
began  to  ascend:  passed  through  a  little  village  called  Hell- 
in -Mods  ley,  and  by  Eccleston,  a  small  church;  near  which  I 
crossed  the  Yarrow,  and  soon  after  refreshed  myself  and 
horses  at  Rose  Whittles,  an  inn  on  the  great  road  between 
Preston  and  Warrington.  This  is  in  the  parish  of  Ley- 
land,  from  whence  the  hundred  takes  its  name,  and  which 
in  former  times  was  one  of  the  five  little  shires  into  which 
this  county  was  subdivided,  viz.  West  Derby,  Salford,  Ley- 
land,  Blackburn,  and  Territorium  de  Lancaster* \ 

The  village  of  Leyland  is  pleasant  and  dry  :  the  church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  is  a  noble  room  of  sixty-five 
feet  by  thirty-three,  a  fine  arch  without  a  single  pillar ;  the 
living  is  a  vicarage:  the  impropriate  rectory  did  belong  to 
the  abbey  of  Penworthan.  In  the  church  are  several  mo- 
numents of  the  Farringtons.  Shaw-hall,  the  seat  of  Sir 
.     .'  :  William 

*  Discourses  of  Em.  Antiquaiies,  1.  £5. 


62  LEYLAND.— SHAW-HALL. 

William  Farrington,  stands  at  a  small  distance  from  Ley- 
land,  highly  improved  by  the  worthy  owner.  The  house 
is  large,  but  not  regular;  yet  has  some  fine  apartments, 
such  as  a  saloon  thirty-three  by  twenty-four,  the  great 
room  sixty-seven  by  thirty-three,  and  a  gallery  fitting  up 
for  a  Museum  for  a  considerable  collection  of  Natural  His- 
tory. 

Among  the  pictures  are  some  very  valuable;  such  as  a 
Noli  me  tangere,  a  large  piece  by  Titian,  a  very  fine  Land- 
scape by  Baptiste,  three  Sea  Views  by  Vaiidervelt,  one 
remarkably  well  done ;  a  cartoon  of  Holbein  s  Head,  by 
himself,  highly  esteemed ;  a  fine  picture  of  Fowls,  by  Hon* 
decotes-,  two  by  Woottoji — one  of  Sir  William  Farrington  s 
Father,  with  a  favourite  horse,  a  huntsman,  and  some  dogs-, 
the  other  a  most  beautiful  Landscape. 

A  good  copy  of  the  Aldobrandine  Marriage ;  the  more 
valuable,  as  the  original  is  going  fast  to  decay.  In  the  hall 
are  some  curious  paintings  al  fresco,  taken  from  the  walls  of 
Hercuhmeum,  with  the  colours  most  surprisingly  preserved, 
notwithstanding  they  are  now  seventeen  hundred  years  old ; 
and  over  the  fire-place  of  the  eating-room  is  a  portrait  of  the 
present  Lady  Hesketh,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  with  the  co- 
lours most  surprisingly  faded,  cadaverous  before  death. 

6  •     In 


*, 


SHAW-HALL.  63 

In  other  apartments  are  a  Sleeping  Venus,  with  a  Satyr 
drawing  aside  the  Mantle,  by  Rubens.  A  Venus  and  two 
Cupids,  by  Romanelli. 

Several  of  the  family  of  the  Farringtons  by  Vandyck,  and 
one  by  Jansen ;  a  portrait  of  Robert  duke  of  Ancaster,  and 
his  second  wife  Albinia  Farrington ;  another  of  the  Earl 
of  Derby,  and  his  son  the  late  Lord  Strange:  and  finally,  a 
Head  of  Sir  Thomas  More,  (from  whom  the  Farringtons  are 
regularly  descended,)  painted  by  Holbein,  the  well-known 
protected  artist  of  that  honoured  character. 

Near  this  place  I  turned  east  out  of  the  great  road,  near 
which  the  country  begins  to  grow  hilly.  From  an  emi- 
nence  in  Brin-hill*,  or  Brindle-parish,  I  had  a  pretty  view 
of  the  rich  vale  of  the  Ribble,  and  to  the  west  its  estuary, 
the  Setantiorum  Forties  of  Ptolemy. 

My  curiosity  led  me  to  view  the  little  church  of  Brindle, 
seated  in  a  deep  bottom.  I  observed  on  an  outside  wall  an 
impression  resembling  a  shoe  with  a  great  heel :  a  communi- 
cative inhabitant  informed  me  of  the  cause,  by  saying  that 
here  happened  a  learned  dispute  between  a  Protestant  and  a 

Popish 

*  Here  appears  the  British  name  Bryn,  from  the  hilliness  of  the  coun- 
try, with  the  needless  tautology  of  the  English  word  hill. 


64  BRINDLE. 

Popish  Divine  concerning  the  truth  of  their  respective  tenets. 
The  last,  in  the*heat  of  controversy,  wished  his  foot  (which 
he  had  placed  against  a  stone)  might  sink  into  it  if  his  doc- 
trine was  not  true.  The  reforming  stone  instantly  dissolved, 
and  received  the  papistical  foot — to  be  released  from  its 
stocks  in  a  manner  my  informant  left  me  ignorant  of. 

About  a  mile  farther,  on  the  summit  of  a  bold  hill,  with 
the  Derwent  flowing  in  a  deep  hollow  beneath,  stands 
HoOghton  Houghton  Tower,  a  great  pile  consisting  of  two  courts, 
with  three  square  towers  in  the  front ;  beneath  the  mid- 
dlemost is  the  gateway.  The  first  court  contains  the 
offices;  the  second,  the  dwelling  apartments,  numerous,  but 
very  ruinous.  The  draw-well  is  suitable  to  the  height  of 
the  situation,  being  eighty  yards  deep.  This  place  was 
garrisoned  during  the  civil  wars,  and  part  of  it  blown  up 
accidentally,  but  afterwards  repaired*. 

It  is  the  property  of  Sir  Henry  Houghton,  to  whose  fa- 
mily it  has  belonged  since  the  reign  of  Henry  II.  at  which 
time  it  was  called  Hocton,  and  gave  name  to  the  first  men- 
tioned in  history,  Adam  de  Hocton. 

In  a  short  time  after  leaving  Houghton,  I  reached  Black- 

bum, 
*  Collin's  Baronets,  1.  £0. 


»  >  > »       *#•* 


£ 

* 


c 

E 
o 

K 

0 


a 


BLACKBURN.  & 

burn,  the  capital  of  a  district  that  formerly  had  the  addition 
of  shire,  and,  according  to  Camden,  took  the  name  from 
the  blackness  of  its  waters.  This  whole  territory  was  be- 
stowed by  the  Conqueror*  on  Ilbert  de  Laci,  one  of  his 
potent  followers.  He  and  his  descendants  parcelled  it  out 
again  to  their  dependants,  and  most  of  the  estates  in  this 
hundred  derive  their  titles  from  them.  The  family  of  As- 
pinal  of  Standen,  near  Clithero,  still  possesses,  its  original 
grant  made  in  the  reign  of  King  John,  to  an  ancestor  Wil- 
liam  Fitz-Fulk,  marshal  to  Roger  de  Laci,  constable  of 
Chester,  and  lord  of  Blachburnshire.  The  Townleys  of 
Townley,  Nowels  of  Read,  Osbadistons,  Hackings,  and  many 
others  derive  their  estates  from  the  same  grants. 

The  town  is  seated  in  a  bottom  surrounded  by  hills :  it  Blackburn. 
is  at  present  rising  into  greatness,  resulting  from  the  over- 
flow of  manufactures  in  Manchester ;  for  the  artificers  re- 
treat to  cheaper  places,  and  less  populous.  The  manufac- 
tures are  cottons  : — considerable  quantities  are  printed  here ; 
others  are  sent  to  London.  The  fields  around  are  whitened 
with  the  materials  which  are  bleached  on  them  :  the  thread, 
which  must  be  ranked  with  them,  is  brought  from  Ireland. 

The  streets  are  irregular;    but  some  good  houses,  the 

k  effect 

*  Dugdale's  Barony  1.  98.  , 


66  BLACKBURN. 

effect  of  wealth,  begin  to  appear  here  and  there  in  several 
places. 

The  church,  before  the  Reformation,  belonged  to  the 
monastery  of  Whalley  :  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  is 
Rector.  The  living  is  served  by  a  Vicar,  who  has  seven 
chapelries  in  his  gift,  but  independent  of  him  in  point  of 
revenue ;  one  is  ninety  pounds  a  year  :  four  have  been  aug- 
mented by  Queen  Anne's  bounty.  In  the  town  is  a  free 
school,  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth :  the  Master  has  a  sti- 
pend of  fifty  pounds  a  year. 

In  the  church,  in  two  of  the  windows  over  the  seat  of 
the  Claytons,  (late  the  Osbadistons  of  OsbadistonJ  is  much 
miscellaneous  painted  glass,  collected  by  one  of  the  family. 
Among  the  panes  are  four  pieces  of  great  beauty — Our  Sa- 
viour, St.  James  the  greater  and  the  less,  and  St.  Matthew. 

Against  the  walls  are  two  brasses ;  one  with  the  bald 
head  of  an  old  man  with  a  great  beard,  his  body  armed ; 
inscribed — "  Here  lyeth  the  body  of  Sir  Edward  Osbadil- 
ston,  a  charitable,  courteous,  and  valiant  knight ;  qui  obiit 
A.  D.  1636,*?/.  63." 

The  epitaph  is  concise,  but  contains  a  character  replete 

with 


$ir  Edward    OjSbadiston 


.,,•  ?  • 


•  \/-K;  :>l  fall    !/->/•' 


*..■'"• 


BLACKBURN.  67 

with  all  the  requisites  of  chivalry  in  its  period  of  utmost 
purity.  The  other  brass  is  in  memory  of  another  Osbadil- 
ston,  which  acquaints  us  with  nothing  farther  than  that  he 
died  in  166Q,  aged  38. 

The  congregation  of  this  mother-church  consists  of  about 
two  thousand. 

The  ground  about  the  town  is  very  barren,  and  much  of 
it  sandy :  coal  is  found  in  plenty  in  the  south  end  of  the 
parish,  and  in  several  parts  much  stone  slate,  which  is  used 
as  a  cover  to  the  houses.  In  one  of  the  hills  there  is  alum- 
stone,  which  Fuller  says  was  worked  in  his  time,  but  had 
long  been  neglected  on  account  of  the  expence  of  taking 
off  the  incumbent  strata,  which  increased  so  as  to  deprive 
the  adventurers  of  all  profit.  When  Sir  George  Colebrooke's 
monopolizing  alum  project  took  place,  he  purchased  and 
worked  these  mines ;  but,  since  his  failure,  they  have  been 
again  neglected. 

I  continued  my  journey  over  a  hilly  tract,  very  moorish 
and  barren,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  eastern  part  of  the 
Vale  of  Ribble,  with  a  sight  of  Clithero  and  its  castle.  In 
the  middle  of  a  plain  varied  with  groves  and  hedge-rows, 
watered  by  the  Ribble,  the  Hodder  and  the  Calder,  I  de- 

k  2  scended 


68    •  WHALLEY-ABBEY. 

scended  a  paved  road  of  uncommon  steepness  and  depth, 
and,  after  crossing  the  western  Calder,  a  fine  stream  that 
rushes  out  I  of  a  narrow  valley  from  the  right,  entered  on 
the  precincts  of  the  Abbey  of  Whalley,  seated  on  the  river's 
side,  on  the  very  edge  of  the  plain  beneath,  the  awful  shade 
of  a  lofty  brow  clothed  with  trees  impending  over  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river.  The  boundaries  of  this  religious 
house  were  very  large :  two  square  towers  yet  remain,  with 
pointed  gateways.  Beneath  are  the  ancient  entrances  to 
the  place  :  one  is  finely  vaulted,  and  the  arch  secured  with 
stone  ribs,  curiously  intersecting  each  other.  Here  still 
remains  part  of  the  conventual  church,  and  some  of  the  old 
dwelling  part  of  the  abbey,  perhaps  the  abbot's  lodgings. — 
On  a  bow  window  are  cut  in  stone  several  coats  of  arms, 
of  founders  or  benefactors,  such  as  a  lion  rampant,  that  of 
the  Lacies  earls  of  Lincoln  ;  the  legs  of  a  man  and  the 
eagle's  claws,  the  arms  and  badge  of  the  Stanleys  ;  a  griffin, 
three  roses,  &c. 

After  the  dissolution  the  place  was  granted  by  Edward  VI. 
to  Richard  Ashton  of  Darcy  Lever,  a  branch  of  the  house 
of  Middleton,  with  the  greatest  part  of  the  demesne ;  the 
rest  to  John  Braddyl  of  Braddyl  in  this  parish,  whose  an- 
cestors were  settled  in  these  parts  since  the  time  of  Ed- 
ward II.  which  his  descendant  still  possesses.  Ashton 
6  made 


WHALLEY-ABBEY.  Og 

made  the  abbey  his  residence  :  considerable  buildings  were 
added,  that  still  continue,  (but  very  ruinous,)  a  good  speci- 
men of  old  splendour.  The  gallery  is  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long,  wainscotted,  and  most  coarsely  painted  ;  with  a 
large  frize  above,  of  most  rude  sculpture  #.  Beyond,  are 
the  ruins  of  very  considerable  parts  of  this  religious  house  : 
a  vast  length  of  room,  perhaps  the  refectory,  with  windows 
on  each  side,  some  rounded,  others  pointed :  above  this 
had  been  the  lodging-rooms.  A  great  court  lies  to  the 
west  of  these,  and  on  one  side  a  vast  pile  with  two  rows  of 
rounded  windows,  with  gothic  stone-work  within. 

In  the  hall  is  a  strange  portrait  of  the  Orkney  hermaphro- 
dite, Anne  Macallame,  born  in  1 6 1 5  ;  dressed  in  a  long 
plaid  fastened  with  a  broch,  a  red  petticoat,  and  a  white 
apron ;  the  chin  is  furnished  with  a  vast  beard,  the  virile 
part  of  the  figure — but  at  its  feet,  to  denote  the  duplicity 
of  sex,  appear  the  figures  of  a  cock  and  hen.  This  Epiccene 
had  the  honour  of  being  presented  at  Court  in  1 662. 

The  name  of  this  place,  in  the  Saxon  age,  was  Valeleg. 
Angus  tin,  the  monk  who  was  sent  on  a  mission  to  preach 
the  gospel  to  this  kingdom  about  the  year  5^0,  published 
the  glad  tidings  even  in  this  remote  corner.     A  church  was 

founded 
*  Pulled  down  since  I  visited  the  place. 


70  WHALLEY-ABBEY. 

founded  here  at  this  period,  dedicated  to  all  the  Saints,  and 
then  became  and  continued  for  many  years  parochial  to  the 
vast  tract  of  Blackbornshire,  and  all  Boland :  the  church  at 
that  time  was  called  the  White  Church  under  Legh.  As 
converts  increased,  the  necessity  of  more  places  of  worship 
gave  rise  to  three  others  in  a  very  little  time;  those  of 
Blachborn,  Chepyn,  and  Ribchester.  These  were  served  in 
a  singular  manner :  the  churches  had  no  particular  patrons ; 
the  lords  of  the  soil  in  which  they  lay  took  the  care  of 
them,  and  appointed  any  of  his  relations  or  friends  to  the 
cure,  after  receiving  institution  from  the  Bishop  of  Lich- 
field:  they  were  styled  Rectors  of  Whalley  or  Blackbom  ; 
were  married  men,  and  persons  of  property.  The  country 
was  at  this  time  very  thinly  inhabited,  and  almost  a  den  of 
wild  beasts.  The  Bishops,  therefore,  for  want  of  a  supply 
of  clergy,  left  the  government  of  these  churches  to  the 
owners  of  the  place,  with  the  power  of  deans ;  so  that  they 
came  to  be  styled  by  the  people  deans,  not  parsons.  Thus 
affairs  continued  for  four  hundred  and  seventy  years,  till 
the  time  of  the  Conquest,  and  the  office  was  hereditary  for 
all  that  space.  It  continued  the  same  till  the  reign  of 
William  Rufus,  when  Roger,  son  of  Galfrid,  (the  last  mar- 
ried dean,)  being  prohibited  matrimony  by  one  of  the  coun- 
cils, made  vows  of  chastity.  He  likewise  was  the  last  dean ; 
for,  finding  by  the  said  council  that  the  hereditary  succes- 

2  sion 


WHALLEY-ABBEY*  71 

sion  was  no  longer  to  be  continued,  he  conveyed  the  presenta- 
tion of  Whalley  and  its  chapels  to  his  relation  John,  consta- 
ble of  Chester,  lord  of  Blackborn,  and  founder  of  Stanlaw 
abbey  in  Cheshire,  who  bestowed  them  on  one  Peter  of 
Chester.  Henry  Lacy  earl  of  Lincoln,  a  successor  to  John, 
bestowed  this  church  on  the  White  Monks  of  Stanlaw  in 
Wiral,  and  by  that  means  gave  occasion  to  the  foundation 
of  this  abbey.  He  bound  them  to  present  to  that  cure  the 
person  that  he  or  his  heirs  should  nominate;  and,  in  case 
they  could  procure  the  impropriation,  and  augment  the  num- 
ber of  monks  to  sixty,  which  before  was  forty,  they  were  to 
remove  the  abbey  from  Stanlaw  to  Whalley  *.  This  was  ef- 
fected by  the  munificence  of  the  Earl  in  12Q6,  who  at  the 
same  time  caused  to  be  translated  to  the  new  convent  the 
bones  of  all  his  ancestors  which  had  been  interred  at  Stan- 
law^-. Another  reason  was  assigned  for  the  removal  of 
the  monks,  which  was  the  inconveniency  of  their  first  si- 
tuation, liable  to  be.  overflowed  by  the  great  tides. 

The  removal  soon  gave  umbrage  to  the  neighbouring 
abbey  of  Salley.  The  last  complained  that  this  new  house 
was,  contrary  to  the  institutions  of  the  Order,  placed  too  near 
to  the  other ;  that  it  raised  the  market ;  and,  by  the  ad- 
vanced prices  of  corn,  salt,  butter,  cheese,  and  other  arti- 
cles, 
*  Dugdale  Monast.  1.  898.  f  Dugdale  Baron.  1.  105. 


72  WHALLEY-ABBEY. 

cles,  they  suffered  annually  to  the  amount  of  twenty-six 
pounds  ten  shillings.  At  length,  in  1 305,  by  the  mediation 
of  the  abbots  of  Revesby  and  Swineshed,  the  affair  was  com- 
promised  in  a  General  Chapter  of  the  Order*. 

Among  the  grants  to   this  abbey  is  a  singular  one  by 
Henry  duke  of  Lancaster,  of  two  cottages,  seven  acres  of 
land,  (I  suppose  arable,)  a  hundred  and  eighty-three  acres 
of  pasturage,  and  two  hundred  of  wood  in  Blachborn  chase; 
and  another  grant  of  the  same  nature  in  the  neighbourhood, 
for  the  support  of  a  female  recluse  and  two  women  servants 
within  the  parish  church-yard  of  Whalley,  who  were  per- 
petually to  pray  for  the  souls  of  the  Duke  and  all  his  pos- 
terity.    The  Convent  was  to  repair  their  habitation,  and 
to  provide  a  chaplain  and  a  clerk  to  sing  mass  to  them  in 
the  chapel  belonging  to  their  retreat ;    to  bestow  on  them 
weekly  seventeen  loaves,  weighing  fifty  soudz  de  sterling  a- 
piece,  of  such  bread  as  was  used  in  the  abbey ;  seven  loaves 
of  the  second  sort ;  eight  gallons  of  the  better  sort  of  beer, 
and  three-pence  for  their  food.     All  this  must  have  been 
surely  intended  to  enable  them  to  keep  hospitality.     Be- 
sides, they  had  annually,  on  the  Feast  of  All  Saints,  ten 
large  stock-fish,  a  bushel  of  oatmeal  for  pottage,  a  bushel 
of  rye,  two  gallons  of  oil  for  their  lamps,  one  pound  of  tal- 
low 
,  *  Dugdale  Mon.  1,  897,  898. 


/WH  ALLEY- ABBEY.  73 

low  for  candles,  six  loads  of  turf  and  one  of  faggots  for  their 
fuel  *.  Upon  the  death  of  these  recluses,  the  Duke  or  his 
Heirs  were  to  appoint  successors. 

This  abbey  flourished  till  the  year  1536,  when,  encou- 
raged by  Ashe's  rebellion,  or  the  pilgrimage  of  Grace,  the 
abbots  and  monks  of  several  convents,  who  had  before 
either  surrendered  their  houses,  or  been  driven  out,  repos- 
sessed themselves  of  their  ancient  seats,  and  resumed  their 
functions.  Among  them  were  the  religious  of  this  House 
of  Salley,  Norto?i  and  Hexham :  their  reign,  however,  was  but 
short ;  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  who  commanded  the  army 
against  the  rebels,  ordered  them  to  be  taken  out  and  mar- 
tial law  to  be  executed  on  them^.  John  Pas/aw,  the 
twenty-fifth  abbey  of  Whalley,  and  one  of  his  monks,  were 
hanged  at  Lancaster,  and  another  monk  in  a  field  adjacent 
to -the  abbey.  On  the  dissolution,  the  revenues  were  found 
to  be,  according  to  Dugdale,  3211.  Qs.  Id.;  to  Speed,  5511.  ' 
4  s.  6d.  The  house  and  manor  continued  the  property  of 
the  Ashtons  till  the  present  century,  when  it  was  transferred 
to  the  Curxons,  by  the  marriage  of  Mary,  coheir  of  Sir  Ralph 
Ashton,  with  the  late  Sir  Nathaniel  Curzon,  and  at  present  is 
the  property  of  their  second  son,  Ashton  Curzon,  esq. 

l  The 

*  Dugdale  Mon.  ].  903. 
1    Herbert's  Life  Henry  FIJI.  Ml. 


74  WHALLEY-CHURCH. 

The  parish  church  lies  at  a  little  distance  from  the  ab- 
-   bey,  and  had  thirteen  chapels  belonging  to  it;  now  only 
twelve,   that  of  Clithero-castle    being    demolished.      The 
nearest  is  three  miles  from  the  church :    the  living  is  a  vi- 
carage, in  the  gift  of  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  who 
has  the  rectory,  which  he  lets  out  upon  fines  on  leases  for 
lives.     Archbishop  Juxofi  left  to  the  vicar  and  curates  1 201. 
per  annum.     The  Vicar  had  anciently  a  very  considerable 
endowment;  but  in  the  year  1330,  upon  a  complaint  that 
he  had  too  great  a  share  of  the  property,  to  the  prejudice 
of  the  monastery,  Roger  Northborough,  bishop  of  Liclifield 
and  Coventry,  (in  whose  diocese  it  then  was,)  ordered  that 
he  should  only  receive  sixty-six  marks  and  four  quarters  of 
oats,  and  hay  sufficient  for  his  horse ;  which  was  confirmed 
by  the  Archdeacon  of  Chester  in  1332,  who  in  those  days 
had  great  power  delegated   to  him  by  the  Bishops.     The 
salary  is  at  present  only  801.  a  year. 

Here  is  a  small  school,  founded  by  Edward  VI.  with 
twenty  marks  a  year  salary,  but  since  has  received  some 
small  augmentation  by  several  donations.  There  are  thir- 
teen  scholarships  in  Brazen-noze  College,  Oxford,  given  to 
scholars  from  this  school,  Middleton  and  Burnley. 

In  1643,  the  sad  effects,  of  civil  discords  were  felt  at  this 

1  place. 


WHALLEY-CHURCH.  75 

place.     James  earl  of  Derby  had  made  himself  master  of  Conflict  here. 
the  place,  and  posted  his  men  in  the  church  and  steeple; 
but  the  people  of  the  country,  being  zealous  Parliamenta- 
rians, rose  in  arms,  and  with  great  slaughter  expelled  the 
Royalists. 

In  the  church-yard  are  three  remarkable  crosses;  two 
are  carved  in  form  similar  to  that  of  Much  Achwyfan  in 
Flintshire :  the  third  is  so  eccentric,  that  I  give  an  en- 
graving of  it,  more  expressive  than  any  verbal  description. 
Certain  stones  were  erected  in  the  time  of  St.  Augustine 
the  monk,  and  were  called  the  Crosses  of  the  Blessed  Au- 
gustine:  but  that  these  are  the  identical  pillars,  I  will  not 
dare  to  assert ;  yet  if  I  did,  I  should  be  supported  by  the 
opinion  of  the  able  Dugdale  #. 

From  Whalley  there  is  a  pleasant  ride  of  five  miles  along  clithxro. 
the  plain  to  Clithero,  a  small  borough  town  seated  on  an 
insulated  eminence,  with  a  high  lime-stone  rock  at  one  end, 
crowned  by  the  little  castle,  whose  remains  are  a  square 
tower,  surrounded  at  a  distance  by  a  strong  wall.  It  was 
possessed  by  the  Royalists  the  latter  end  of  the  Civil  Wars, 
and  was,  in  1()49,  ordered  by  Parliament  to  be  dismantled. 

l  2  The 

*  Monast.  i.  898. 


7Q  CLITHERO. 

The  town  had  been  entirely  moated  round  except  on  the 
inaccessible  parts. 

Sir  William  Dugdale  supposes  it  to  have  been  built  by 
Robert  Laci,  who  died  in  1 1Q3  ;  but  I  find  both  the  castle 
and  chapel  are  mentioned  before  that  time,  in  a  grant  to  the 
Priory  at  Pontefract,  by  Hugh  de  la  Fal*,  who,  on  the 
flight  of  his  elder  brother  Roger  Laci  in  1025,  for  his  con- 
cern in  Mowbray  s  rebellion,  had  a  grant  made  him  of  this 
place  by  William  Rufus,  for  his  faithful  adherence  to  the 
royal  cause. 

The  latter  repossessed  themselves  during  the  troubles 
of  Stephen,  and  afterwards,  by  agreement,  secured  their  an- 
cient domain  -f\  It  does  not  appear  that  they  ever  made 
this  castle  their  residence,  but  intended  it  only  as  a  garri- 
son to  secure  their  vast  property  in  these  parts,  for  their 
chief  residence  was.  in  the  castle  of  Pontefract. 

This  expired  in  Henry  Laci,  last  earl  of  Lincoln  of  that 
name.  His  daughter  Alice  transferred  it  by  marriage  to 
Thomas  Plantagenet  earl  of  Lancaster.     This  Lady  was  of 

loose 

*  Dugdale  Monast.  1.  649. 
f  Dugdate  Baron-  1,  99.     Among  the  Prints  published  by  the  Antiqua- 
lian  Society  is  one  representing  this  Castle  in  an  entire  state. 


.  i » »       » i ,  » 


r,i  Rs 


H 

< 


0 

£ 


*•-}« 


CLITHERO.  77 

loose  life,  for  she  lived  in  great  familiarity  with  Eubulo  le 
Strange,  whom  she  afterwards  married  without  the  King's 
licence.  Edward  II.  took  advantage  of  this,  and,  seizing  on 
all  her  fortunes,  obliged  her  to  resign  those  of  her  inheri- 
tance which  she  possessed  in  this,  county  and  Yorkshire. — ■ 
These  were  bestowed  on  Henry  earl  of  Lancaster,  her  hus- 
band's brother,  on  her  death  in  1348  #.  He  was  also  cre- 
ated Earl  of  Lincoln;  by  which  means  this  lordship,  being 
part  of  that  earldom,  became  a  parcel  of  the  duchy  of 
Lancaster.  It  became  also,  in  compliment  to  the  Blood- 
Royal,  one  of  those  great  seigniories  called  an  Honour,' 
on  which  lesser  lordships  or  manors  depended,  by  perform- 
ance of  customs  and  services  to  the  lord  paramount.  Such 
were  some  of  the  ancient  feudal  baronies,  or  such  which 
had  been  in  the  hands  of  the  Crown  ^.  This  continued  in 
the  same  line  till  Henry  of  Lancaster  became  King  of  Eng- 
land. It  was  vested  from  that  time  in  the  Crown,  till  the 
Restoration,  when  it  was  made  part  of  the  reward  of  George 
Monk  duke  of  Albemarle,  from  whom  it  came  to  the  Family 
©f  the  Duke  of  Montague,  in  which  it  rests. 

The  chapel  mentioned  in  Hugh  de  la  VaTs  grant  was 
within  the  castle,  and  was  called  St.  Michael's :  it  was  first 
built  for  the  use  of  the  Baron,  his  family,  tenants  and.  fo- 
resters.. 

*  Dugdale  Baron.  1,  782.  \  Blackstone's  Com.  11,  91.  4to  ecL 


78  CLITHERO. 

Testers.  The  monks  of  Whalley  at  length  prevailed  to 
have  it  annexed  to  their  church  ;  but  Henry  earl  of  Lincohi 
reclaimed  it,  seized  on  the  revenues,  and  nominated  the 
minister.  At  length,  after  many  petitions  to  the  King  and 
Parliament,  it  was  restored  to  the  abbey,  and  the  revenues 
now  go  along  with  those  of  Whalley,  on  leases.  The  cha- 
pel is  totally  ruined,  yet  has  always  been  considered  as  a 
parish  church,  and  is  so  named  in  the  ancient  deeds  be- 
longing to  the  neighbouring  gentry.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  a  donative,  with  the  chapels  of  Pendley,  Whitewell, 
Rossendale  and  Goodshaw  under  it;  and  there  is  testimony 
that  the  forests  of  Trawden,  Rossendale,  Bollandt  and  Pen- 
die,  were  within  its  limits  #. 

The  church  is  a  chapelry  belonging  to  Whalley.  It  has 
not  any  thing  remarkable  in  it,  except  the  alabaster  figures 
of  a  Knight  and  his  Lady.  The  coat  of  arms  on  the  breast 
•  of  the  Knight  are  much  defaced,  but  seem  to  have  been 
three  garbs  on  a  bend,  the  ancient  bearing  of  the  Heskeths 
before  they  changed  it  to  an  eagle  displayed.  The  house 
in  this  town,  called  the  Alleys,  was  formerly  the  property  Of 
that  family. 

This  place  had  a  very  ample  charter  from  the  first  Henry 

de 

*  Bishop  GastreV*  MSS. 


CLITHERO.  79 

de  Lacy,  who  granted  the  same  privileges  with  the  citizens 
of  Chester,  which  was  confirmed  by  another  charter  by 
Edward  I.  The  town  is  governed  by  two  Bailiffs,  who 
jointly  have  the  power  of  one  Justice  of  Peace.  They  are 
the  returning  officers  of  the  borough,  which  sends  two 
Representatives.  It  is  not  incorporated;  but  the  voters 
are  the  resident  owners  of  the  houses,  or,  according  to  the 
resolution  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  1661,  such  free- 
holders only  who  had  estates  for  life  or  in  fee.  It  did  not 
send  Members  till  the  1  st  of  Elizabeth,  when  Thomas  Green- 
acre  and  Walter  Hoot on  were  returned. 

PeJidle-hill  makes  a  conspicuous  figure  on  the  south  side 
of  the  plain :  the  sides  are  verdant,  the  top  moorish  and 
very  extensive.  On  this  stood  Malhin  Tower,  celebrated 
in  1633  for  being  the  rendezvous  of  witches.  Seventeen 
poor  wretches  were  condemned,  on  perjured  evidence  :  the 
affair  was  scrutinized  into,  and  the  poor  convicts  set  at  li- 
berty#.  A  witness  swore  he  saw  them  go  into  a  barn  and 
pull  at  six  ropes,  down  which  fell  flesh  smoking,  butter  in 
lumps,  and  milk  as  it  were  flying  from  the  said  ropes,  all 
falling  into  six  basons  placed  beneath  :  and  yet,  mortifying 
reflection  1  the  great  Sir  Thomas  Brown,  author  of  the  book 
against  vulgar  errors — and  Glanvil,  one  of  the  first  pro- 
moters i 
*'  Webster  on  Witchcraft,  277,  &e. 


80  CLITHERO. 

moters  of  the  Royal  Society,  which  was  instituted  ex- 
pressly for  the  detection  of  error  and  establishment  of  truth, 
were  sad  instances  of  credulity  in  the  most  absurd  of  all 
circumstances. 

On  this  hill  are  two  large  cams,  about  a  mile  distant 
from  each  other :  these  were  more  probably  the  ruins  of 
some  ancient  Speculce,  or  beacon  towers  erected  by  Agricola 
after  the  conquest  of  the  country.  There  is  another,  of 
more  modern  date,  which  answers  to  one  on  Ingleborough- 
hill,  twenty  miles  to  the  north.  From  this  may  be  seen  a 
most  amazing  extent  of  country  :  York-minster  is  very  vi- 
sible, and  the  land  towards  the  German  ocean  as  far  as  the 
powers  of  the  eye  can  extend.  Towards  the  west  the  sea 
is  very  distinguishable,  and  even  the  Isle  of  Man  by  the 
assistance  of  glasses:  to  the  north,  the  vast  mountains  of 
Ingleborough,  Wharnside,  and  other  of  the  British  Apen- 
nines. The  other  views  are  the  vales  of  Ribble,  Hoddcr 
and  Colder,  (the  first  extends  thirty  miles,)  which  afford  a 
most  delicious  prospect,  varied  with  numberless  objects  of 
rivers,  houses,  woods,  and  rich  pastures  covered  with  cat- 
tle ;  and  in  the  midst  of  this  fine  vale  rises  the  town  of 
Clitliero,  with  the  castle  at  one  end,  and  the  church  at  the 
other,  elevated  on  a  rocky  scar  :  the  abbey  of  Whalley  about 
four  miles  to  the  south,  and  that  of  Salley  as  much  to  the 

4  north, 


CLITHERO.  81 

the  north,  with  the  addition  of  many  gentlemen's  seats 
scattered  over  the  vale,  give  the  whole  a  variety  and  rich- 
ness rarely  to  be  found  in  any  rural  prospects.  It  is  also 
enlivened  with  some  degree  of  commerce,  in  the  multitude 
of  the  cattle,  the  carriage  of  the  lime,  and  the  busy  noise 
of  the  spinners  engaged  in  the  service  of  the  woollen  ma- 
nufacture of  the  cloathing  towns. 

In  1 138,  when  David  I.  king  of  Scotland,  invaded  Eng- 
land, an  inroad  was  made  into  these  parts  by  William,  son 
of  his  bastard-brother  Duncan,  who  headed  a  band  of  Gal- 
wegians.  Near  this  place  they  were  opposed  by  a  consi- 
derable body  of  English.  By  the  first  impetuous  onset  of 
the  Galwegians  the  latter  were  overthrown,  numbers  slain 
and  made  prisoners,  and  vast  ravages  committed  by  the 
conquerors*. 

From  Clithero  I  paid  my  respects  to  John  Aspinal,  esq. 
of  Standen-hall,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  town,  to  whose 
hospitality  and  attention  I  think  myself  highly  indebted. 
In  order  to  enable  me  to  fulfil  the  end  of  my  journey,  he 
did  me  the  favour  of  pointing  out  several  neighbouring 
places  extremely  worth  visiting.  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
attending  him,  on  a  very  pleasant  ride  down  the  vale,  and 

m  for 

*  Sir  David  Dalrymple's  Annals  of  Scotland.  1.  72. 


§2  ROMAN  ROAD. 

for  a  considerable  way  along  a  Roman  road,  that  runs,  very 
visibly  elevated,  from  Clithero  Moor,  through  the  fields  of 
Standen  Hay,  Little  Mitton,  and  to  Whalley  Moor,  and  is 
supposed  to  cross  the  Calder  at  Potter's-ford,  and  go  by 
Salesbury-hall,  pointing  to  the  eastern  gate  of  Ribchester, 
It  takes  a  northerly  direction  from  Clithero,  Moor,  and  goes 
by  Gisburn  towards  Gargrave,  a  supposed  camp  of  Agri- 
cola,  where  a  fine  tessulated  pavement  has  been  found*, 
and  from  Skipton  by  llkly,  or  Olicana,  over  RamwalcCs  Moor, 
and  from  llkly  to  York\. 

We  forded  the  Ribble,  opposite  to  Great  Mitto?i,  a  vil- 
lage in 

YORKSHIRE, 

with  a  church,  seated  on  a  high  bank  above  the  river. 

The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael-,  is  a  vicarage  in 
the  presentation  of  Edward  Weld,  esq.  Within  is  a  pro- 
fusion of  magnificent  tombs  in  memory  of  the  Sherbornes 
oi  Stanihurst,  in  this  parish.  The  most  antient  now  re- 
maining is  of  Sir  Richard  Sherborne,  and  Maude  his  wife, 
daughter  of  Sir  Richard  Bold.  He  was  Master  Forester  of 
Rowland  Forest,  Steward  of  the  Manor  of  Sladebum,  and 

Lieu- 

*  Rauthmelfs  Antiq.  Breinetonacenses,  16.  42.     f  Drake's  Hist.  Fork,  1$. 


MITTON.  83 

Lieutenant  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  He  died  in  15QQ;  she  in 
1588.  They  both  lie  recumbent  in  alabaster — he  in  ar- 
mour, with  short  hair  and  long  flowing  beard. 

In  the  last  century  was  remaining  at  Mitton  a  more  an- 
cient tomb  than  any  here  mentioned,  for  Sherborne,  thus 
inscribed  : — "  Orate  pro  anima  Ric:  de  Sher bourn,  et  pro 

"  anima Hamerton  uxoris  suae,  AS.   MSGCCCXLi. 

"  Obiit  prsefatus  Ric  :  et  erat  hie  tumulatus  in  die  As- 
"  sensionis  Dni  nostri  Jesu  Christi,  cujus  anjmae  propitie- 
"  tur  Deus,  Amen!"—  (MSS.  in  Bibl.  /.  C.  Brooke  de  Coll. 
Arm.) 

A  mural  monument  of  another  Sir  Richard  Sherbom 
and  his  Lady,  kneeling :  he  armed  :  she  in  a  ruff,  with  a 
black  hood  turning  from  behind  over  the  top  of  her  head; 
her  dress  black,  with  hanging  sleeves. 

Three  altar-tombs,  with  recumbent  figures  in  white 
marble,  with  long  hair,  and  loose  gowns  over  their  coats : 
one  has  his  Lady  lying  by  him.  All  of  them  are  of  the 
name  of  Richard,  and  each  is  spurred  and  placed  cross- 
legged  ;  but  I  doubt  whether  any  one  had  obtained  the 
privilege  by  a  visit  to  the  Holy  Land  :  probably  it  meant  no 
more  than  that  they  lived  and  died  good  Catholics.     These 

m  2  tombs 


84  MITTON. 


tombs  were  erected  by  Isabel,  the  wife  of  one  of  them, 
whose  effigy  makes  the  fourth  figure. 

Against  the  wall  is  the  figure  of  another  Richard,  a.  child 
standing  and  contemplating  a  scull  and  other  bones  scat- 
tered on  a  cushion  beneath.  He  was  born  in  16Q3,  and 
died  in  1 702.  A  long  inscription  on  a  mural  monument 
records  the  good  done  by  his  father  Sir  Nicholas  Sherborn, 
who  took  much  pains  to  have  his  poor  neighbours  in- 
structed in  the  art  of  spinning.  He  was  created  a  baronet 
by  James  II. ;  the  title  was  extinct  with  him  in  1717-  His 
daughter  Mary,  wife  to  Thomas  duke  of  Norfolk,  inherited 
his  fortune  :  she  set  up  this  monument,  and  another  to  the 
Honourable  Peregrine  Widdrington,  whose  epitaph  she  com- 
posed. It  is  supposed  that  after  the  death  of  the  Duke 
she  was  privately  married  to  him,  but,  through  pride,  kept 
her  marriage  concealed,  notwithstanding  they  cohabited 
till  the  day  of  his  death.  All  the  epitaphs  on  these  masses 
of  marble  are  uncommonly  dull. 

The  manor  of  Mitton  was  formerly  the  property  of  the 
Family  of  Sotheron.  Thomas  le  Sotheron  was  returned  as 
Lord  thereof  in  the  record  called  Nomina  Villarum,  made 
9  Ed.  II.  1316.  Sir  John  Sotheron,  knt.  had  an  only 
daughter,  Isabel,  his  heir,   married  about  41   Ed.  HI.  to 

Walter 


MITTON.— STONYHURST.  85 

Walter  de  Hawkesworth  of  Hawkesworth,  near  Otley,  who 
had  with  her,  besides  this  manor,  eighty  marks  in  portion. 
In  this  ancient  family  it  continued  till  Walter  Hawkesworth 
of  Hawkesworth  esq.  sold  it  to  Mr.  Serjeant  Aspinal,  a 
short  time  before  that  gentleman's  death. 

From  Mitton  I  rode  a  little  north,  and  crossed  into  Lan- 
cashire over  the  rapid  river  Hodder,  which  falls  into  the 
Ribble  a  little  below  the  village,  and,  with  the  Calder,  gave 
rise  to  this  distich : 

"  The  Hodder,  the  Calder,  the  Ribble  and  rain, 
"  All  meet  in  a  point  on  Mitton  desmen." 

The  house  of  the  Sherboms  lies  about  one  mile  from 
Hodder --bridge \  in  an  advantageous  situation.  It  is  a  lofty 
and  large  building  of  different  periods,  with  a  court  in  the 
middle.  The  gateway  is  very  magnificent,  ornamented 
with  the  pillars  of  the  different  orders,  placed  in  pairs  one 
above  the  other.  This  part  is  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Sir  Nicholas.  The  apartments  in  the  house  are  large  :  here 
is  a  vast  hall,  and  a  larger  gallery,  eighty-six  feet  in  length, 
and  above  that  another  of  far  greater  dimensions.  This 
house  appears  to  have  been  built  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth, 
when  greatness  more  than  conveniency  was  consulted:  the 
2  gardens 


66  BASHAL-HALL.-- WADDINGTON. 

gardens  are  in  the  old  taste,  and  decorated  with  statues. 
The  place  (with  70001.  a  year)  was  left  by  the  Duchess  of 
Nor/oik,  (who  died  in  1754,)  to  her  heirs  at  law,  the  Welds 
of  Lulworth-castle,  in  Dorsetshire,  descended  from  the  only 
sister  of  her  father,  Sir  Nicholas  Sherborn,  bart.  This 
place  is  now  deserted  for  Lulworth-castle,  the  more  eligible 
and  noble  residence  #,  in  the  west  of  England.  I  repassed 
the  Hodder  into  Yorkshire,  and  rode  towards  BashaUhall, 
once  the  property  of  the  Lacies,  and  granted  by  them  to 
their  relations  the  Talbot s,  who  enjoyed  it  many  centuries. 
It  afterwards  passed  to  the  Ferrers  and  the  Walmslies ;  and 
by  the  marriage  of  the  daughter  of  the  last  of  that  name 
with  Joh?i  Lloyd,  esq.  of  Gwerklds  in  Merionethshire,  is  in 
the  possession  of  my  countryman. 

The  view  from  this  part  is  very  beautiful,  into  the  vales 
of  Ribble,  Hodder  and  Calder.  The  first  divided  into  num- 
bers of  wooded  risings,  bounded  at  a  distance  by  lofty  bar- 
ren mountains,  among  which  Pendle-hill,  Penygent,  and 
the  more  distant  Wharnside,  soar  pre-eminent.  The  road 
from  hence  is  singular,  along  the  top  of  a  great  ridge, 
with  sloping  fields  on  each  hand.  A  mile  from  Bashal- 
hall,  in  the  bottom,  lies  Waddington,  a  small  village  with  a 
church  and  hall  of  the  same  name.     The  church  is  a  cha- 

pelry 
*  See  the  View  of  it  in  Hut  chin's,  Dorsetsh.  1.  140. 


WADDINGTON-HALL.  87 

pelry  to  Mitton,  dedicated  to  St.  Helen.  Here  is  a  neat 
alms-house  for  several  poor  widows,  founded  in  1700  by 
Robert  Parker,  esq.  a  second  son  of  the  House  of  Brows- 
holm  in  this  parish,  and  endowed  by  him  with  a  consider- 
able estate.  The  hall  is  a  stone-house  with  some  small 
ancient  windows,  and  a  narrow  winding  staircase  within, 
now  inhabited  by  several  poor  families ;  yet  formerly  gave 
shelter  to  a  Royal  Guest.  The  meek  usurper,  Henry  VI. 
after  the  fatal  battle  of  Hexham  in  1463,  was  conveyed 
into  this  county,  where  he  was  concealed  by  his  vassals 
for  an  entire  twelvemonth,  notwithstanding  the  most  dili- 
gent search  was  made  after  him.  At  length  he  was  sur- 
prised at  dinner  in  Waddington-hall,  and  taken  near  Bun- 
gerley  Hipping-stones  f%  in  Cletherwood, ,  The  account  which 
heland\  gives  from  an  ancient  Chronicle  concurs  with 
the  tradition  of  the  country,  that  he  was  deceived,  i.  e.  be- 
trayed by  Thomas  Talbot,  son  and  heir  to  Sir  Edmund 
Talbot  of  Bashal,  and  John  his  cousin  of  Colebry.  The 
house  was  beset;  but  the  King  found  means  to  get  out,  and 
ran  across  the  fields  below  Waddow-hall,  and  passed  the  Rib- 
ble,  on  the  stepping-stones,  now  called  Brungalay  Hippens, 
into  a  wood  on  the  Lancashire  side,  called  Christian  Pightle  j 
but  being  closely  pursued,  was  there  taken.     From  hence 

he 

*  Stepping  Stones. 
t  Collect.    11.  500.     He  is  copied  by  Holinshed  666,  and  Stow  419. 


88  WADDINGTON-HALL. 

he  was  carried  to  London,  in  the  most  piteous  manner,  on 
horseback,  with  his  legs  tied  to  the  stirrups. 

This  is  the  best  account  we  have  of  the  taking  of  this 
unfortunate  Prince.  Rymer  has  preserved  the  grant  of  a 
reward  for  this  service  of  the  estates  of  Sir  Richard  Tun- 
stall,  a  Lancastrian,  to  Sir  James  Harrington,  by  Ed- 
ward IF.  dated  from  Westminster,  July  9th,  1465  #.  There 
is  no  mention  in  it  of  the  Talbots,  but  probably  Sir  James 
having  discovered  Henry 's  lurking-places  induced  the  Tal- 
bots to  assist  in  making  him  prisoner.  At  that  time  Wad- 
dington  belonged  to  the  Tempests,  who  inherited  it  by  vir- 
tue of  the  marriage  of  their  ancestor  Sir  Roger,  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  I.  with  Alice  daughter  and  heiress  of  Walter  de 
Waddington.  An  alliance  had  just  been  made  between 
the  Tempests  and  the  Talbots.  It  may  be  presumed,  that, 
in  order  to  save  their  estates,  (which  they  afterwards  were 
suffered  quietly  to  possess,)  they  agreed  with  Sir  James 
to  give  up  the  saintly  monarch ;  which  was  the  reason  that 
the  latter  had  the  reward  for  what  the  grant  calls  "  his 
"  great  and  laborious  diligence  in  taking  our  great  traitor 
44  and  rebel,  Henry,  lately  called  King  Henry  VI" 

But  it  appears  that  the  recompense  to  Talbot  was  only 

deferred, 

*  Rymer,  11.  548. 


WADDINGTON-HALL.  89 

deferred,  for  in  the  second  of  Richard  III.  that  monarch 
bestowed  on  Sir  Thomas  Talbot,  then  his  servant,  an  an- 
nuity of  forty  pounds  a  year  for  his  good  services,  "  in 
taking  the  great  adversary  of  ourself  and  our  brother 
Edward  of  good  memory,  Henry,  king  in  fact,  but  not 
"  by  right,  to  be  paid  annually  out  of  the  revenues  of  the 
"  County  Palatine  of  Lancaster*" 

In  the  east  window  of  Waddington-chapel  were  formerly 
the  effigies  of  Richard  Tempest  of  Bracewell,  esq.  and  Ro- 
samond his  wife,  daughter  and  heir  of  Tristram  Boiling  of 
Boiling,  esq.  kneeling,  in  surcoats  of  their  arms,  and  this 
inscription  : — "  Orate  pro  anima  Richardi  Tempest  arm. 
**  et  ftosinte  uxoris  suae,  necnon  omnium  aliorum  filiorum 
"  et  filiarum  praedicti  Richardi  et  Rosince,  qui  istam  fenes- 
"  tram  fecerunt  A0  Dni  M0CCCCC°XII°." 

The  Tempests  of  Bracewell  and  Waddington  were  the 
eldest  branch  of  all  the  Tempests,  but  left  this  country  for 
Boiling,  which  the  above-mentioned  Rosamond  brought  in- 
to the  family,  where  they  continued  till  ruined  by  the  Civil 
Wars. 

A  mile  further  is  Waddow-hall,  the  seat  of  Thomas  Wed- 
in  del, 
*  Br.  Magna,  6,  423. 


go  WADDOW-HALL. 

del,  esq.  one  of  the  most  charming  situations  in  the  north 
of  England,  placed  on  the  side  of  a  round  and  insulated 
hill  rising  out  of  the  plain,  varied  with  woods  and  beautiful 
sloping  lawns,  washed  on  one  side  by  the  Ribble,  that  runs 
furiously  over  a  rocky  channel.  Clithero  town  and  castle, 
with  variety  of  lesser  eminences  clothed  with  trees,  are 
among  the  nearer  objects,  while  at  a  distance  arise  Pendle- 
liill,  Penygent,  and  the  lofty  Wharnside.  A  succession  of 
fine  and  different  views  appear  in  circuiting  this  happy  si- 
tuation. We  crossed  the  Ribble  by  the  Hippen-stones, 
(which  the  poor  Henry  had  hurried  over,)  passed  through 
Clithero,  and  returned  to  Standen. 

Mr.  Aspinal,  in  compliance  with  my  desire  of  seeing  the 
Roman  station  at  Ribchester,  did  me  the  favour  of  attend- 
ing me  there.  We  rode  as  far  as  Whalley,  on  the  road  I 
had  before  taken. 

We  turned  to  the  right,  and  forded  the  Calder  half  a 
mile  beyond  the  abbey ;  crossed  Langho-gree?i,  and  near 
its  small  chapel  dependent  on  Blackburn.  In  798  this 
place  was  noted  for  the  defeat  of  JVada,  a  Saxo?i  leader,  by 
Aldred  king  of  the  Northumbrians.  This  Wada  was  one 
of  the  petty  princes  who  joined  the  murderers  of  King 
Ethered.  After  his  overthrow,  he  fled  to  his  castle,  on  a 
1  hill 


SALEBURY-HALL.  9 1 

hill  near  Whitby,  and,  dying,  was  interred  not  far  from  the 
place.  Two  great  pillars,  about  twelve  feet  from  each  other, 
mark  the  spot,  and  bear  the  name  of  Wadas  Grave. # 

Near  it  is  Hacken-hall,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Hackeus-, 
from  them,  by  marriage  of  an  heiress,  it  descended  to  the 
Walmslies,  and  at  present  is  Lady  Stourto?i%.  We  passed  by 
Braddyl,  Brockall  and  Dinkley-halls,  now  deserted  seats  ; 
and  from  Dinkley-moor  descended  a  gentle  slope  to  Sales- 
bury  or  Salebury-hall,  once  the  Talbot s,  now  Sir  G.  War* 
reii's,  by  marriage  of  an  ancestor  with  the  heiress  of  Tal- 
bot of  Dinkley.  Our  Welsh  history  says,  that  it  owes  its 
name  to  the  founder  Thomas  Salebury  ap  Alexander  ap 
Adam  \,  who  lived  about  the  time  of  Henry  III.  and  whose  . 
ancestor,  Adam  de  Salebury,  came  in  with  the  Conqueror, 
and  made  a  settlement  at  Llewetini,  near  Denbigh,  which 
their  descendent  possessed  till  it  was  conveyed  to  the  Cot- 
tons of  Cumbermere,  in  Cheshire,  by  the  marriage  of  Hesther 
Salusbury,  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  Thomas  Salusbury, 
with  Sir  Robert  Cotton,  bart.  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II. — 
The  house  at  present  is  reduced  into  the  form  of  a  farm- 
house, and  is  seated  near  the  Kibble,  at  the  beginning  of  a 
plain  which  is  continued  as  far  as  the  sea  J. 

n  2  Just 

*  Camden,  11,  9 72.  t  Salesbury  Pedigree.  %  Collins  Baronets, 

Ed.   1720.    11.   82.   In  the  first  the  house  is  called  Salesbury  Court. 


92  RIBCHESTER. 

Just  above  the  house  the  view  is  wonderfully  romantic ; 
the  Ribble  bursts  from  its  confined  channel,  between  two 
rocks  shaded  picturesquely  with  trees,  a  narrow  strait, 
through  which  the  water  gushes  with  great  impetuosity, 
and  forms  below  a  pool  nineteen  yards  deep,  with  a  great 
eddy  like  a  whirlpool,  and  called,  from  its  circumgyrations, 
Sale  Wheel,  i.  e.  Salebury  JVheel.  Above  this  the  banks 
are  high  and  confined,  the  country  rising  and  wooded,  and 
the  distant  view  is  terminated  in  the  mountainous  scenery 
before  described. 

I  was  here  shewn  three  neat  little  images,  one  in  ala- 
baster, the  others  in  wood  ;  the  first  I  knew  to  be  St.  An- 
thony, by  his  companion  the  pig.  They  were  about  ten 
inches  long,  neatly  cased  in  wood,  with  folding  doors,  to 
be  opened  occasionally  when  the  Saints  were  to  be  invoked. 
They  were  the  Lares  familiares  of  the  former  religion  of 
our  land. 

We  crossed  the  New  Bridge,  an  elegant  structure  of 
three  elliptical  arches.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  stands 
Ribchester,  a  poor  village,  formerly  a  famous  Ro?nan  station : 
on  its  north-east  side  it  is  bounded  by  a  little  brook,  on  the 
south-east  by  the  river  Ribble,  both  which  annually  make 
great  encroachments   on    the    place ;    the   last   especially, 

which 


.  >  *  . 

■  •  • 

»•  1 

• 
•  * 

■ 

»**• 

.  J.  . 

» 
• 

..  . . 

,  •  •• 

v. 

*•#« 

Ancient  A_ltah    at   Ribchester 


RIBCHESTER.  93 

which  has  crossed  from  the  other  side  of  the  vale,  and 
threatens  ruin  by  undermining  the  banks  on  which  the  vil- 
lage stands :  a  row  of  houses  and  some  gardens  have  al- 
ready been  swept  away.  Except  a  rampart  and  foss  near 
the  church,  there  are  no  vestiges  of  the  existence  of  the  an- 
cient town.  The  evidences  which  remain  are  the  multi- 
tude of  coins  and  other  Roman  antiquities,  which  even  to 
this  time  continue  to  be  found  there:  most  of  them  are 
dispersed  into  different  places ;  a  few  remain  on  the  spot. 
Of  the  latter  I  observed  the  stone  engraven  by  Mr.  Horsley 
from  the  broken  original.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  an 
honorary  inscription  to  Severns  and  Caracalla,  by  the  re- 
petition of  the  address.  It  was  done  by  a  Vexillatio  of  one 
of  the  Legions  quartered  here.  A  stone  fixed  in  the  wall 
of  a  small  house  near  the  church  gives  room  to  suppose 
that  it  belonged  to  the  twentieth.  The  inscription  is — 
LEG.  XX  VV  FEC.  and  on  one  side  is  the  sculpture  of  a 
boar,  an  animal  I  have  in  two  other  instances  observed 
attendant  on  the  inscriptions  made  by  the  famous  Legio 
vicesima  valens  victrix. 

Two  very  curious  sculptures,  found  here,  are  to  be  seen 
worked  into  the  wall  of  Salesbury-court,  and  almost  hid  in 
the  building:  two  sides  of  a  very  fine  altar  are  luckily  ex- 
posed to  view  ;  it  is  dedicated  to  Apollo.     On  one  front  is 

repre- 


04  RIBCHESTER. 

represented  the  Deity,  elegantly  leaning  on  one  elbow,  with 
a  quiver  on  his  back,  a  lyre  in  his  hand,  and  a  loose  mantle 
flowing  gracefully  behind  him.  On  the  other  front  appear 
two  of  his  priests  in  long  robes  and  a  peplum,  with  the  head 
of  a  bull  between  them,  ready  to  be  sacrificed.  This  pillar 
was  probably  votive,  either  erected  in  gratitude  for  a  safe  voy- 
age made  to  this  port,  or  to  obtain  a  favourahle  one  from  it. 

The  next  sculpture  I  saw  was  discovered  in  digging  a 
grave  in  the  church-yard  of  Ribchester,  and  is  in  the  pos- 
session of  Mr.  Aspinal.  It  represents  a  Roman  soldier  car- 
rying the  habarum  vexil/um,  or  standard  of  the  cavalry. — 
The  bearer  is  here  dismounted,  as  appears  on  the  Trajan 
column  *,  that  faithful  record  of  the  ancient  military  art. 

The  learned  reader  may  find  in  Camden  and  Horsley  -j- 
the  several  other  inscriptions,  now  lost.  I  shall  only  men- 
tion two  ;  one  dedicated  to  Mars  and  Victory,  which  proves 
that  a  part  of  the  Sarmatian  cavalry  was  quartered  here, 
the  altar  having  been  erected 

"  DEO  MARTI  et 

"  VICTORIA  DEC . 

*  SASIATIC  AL  SARMAT. 

"S.  LL.  M.  I.  TCC.  NN." 

The 

*  Jfontfaucon,  iv.  103.  tab.  xliii.     f  Camden,  11,  972.  Horsley,  302,  &c. 


RIBCHESTER.  g5 

The  other  is  an  address  to  the  Dece  Matres,  which  shews 
that  the  veneration  of  these  goddesses  extended  farther 
than  was  thought.     The  inscription  runs  thus  : — 

"  DEIS  MATRIBVS. 

"  M.  INGENVI 

»  VS.  ASIATICVS 
"  DEC  .   AL .  AST 

"SS.LL.   M." 

But  whether  they  were  comprehended  in  the  religion  of 
the  officer,  who  was  an  Asiatic,  or  the  troops  also,  which 
were  Spanish,  Ala  astoriim,  does  not  appear. 

Among  other  lost  things,  Doctor  Leigh'*  mentions  a 
ruby  found  here — the  signet,  as  he  supposes,  of  some  man 
of  rank.  On  it  was  engraved  Mars,  with  a  banner  in  one 
hand,  a  target  at  his  feet,  and  a  thunder -bolt  in  his  other 
hand.  I  rather  think  the  Doctor  mistakes  the  banner  for 
a  trophy,  which,  from  several  ancient  gems,  appears  to  be 
often  carried  by  that  deity. 

A  ring,  far  more  curious,  was  lately  seen  by  Mr.  Aspinal> 
in  possession  of  a  poor  man,  who  picked  it  up  near  the 
river.  The  metal  was  gold,  the  stone  a  cornelian,  with  a 
bird  engraven,  and   this    tender    motto — Ave,  mea  vita ! 

The 

*  Hist.  Lancashire,  82. 


90  RIBCHESTER. 

The  interpretation  of  Mr.  Aspinal  is  ingenious  and  just. 
He  imagines  the  ring  to  have  been  a  present  from  a  lover 
to  his  mistress.  The  bird  is  a  raven,  whom  he  is  invoking, 
as  Horace  did  the  same  bird,  in  order  to  have  a  favourable 
augury  in  behalf  of  his  beloved  Galatea*  : 

"  Antequam  stantes  repetat  paludes 
"  Imbrium  divina  avis  imminentum 
"  Oscinem  coruum  prece  suscitabo 

"  Solis  ab  ortu. 
"  Sis  licet  felix  ubicunque  mavis, 
"  Et  memor  nostri,  Galatea,  vivas  : 
**  Teque  nee  laevus  vetet  ire  picus. 

"  Nee  vaga  cornix." 

"  And  bid  good-omen' d  Ravens  rise, 

"  When  Phcebus  gilds  the  orient  skies, 

"  E'er  speeds  the  shower-boding  Crow 

"  To  lakes  whose  languid  waters  cease  to  flow. 

"  Happy  may  Galatea  prove, 

**  Nor  get  unmindful  of  our  love ! 

"  For  now  no  luckless  Pie  prevails, 

M  Nor  vagrant  Crow  forbids  the  swelling  sails." 

Francis. 

The  rampart  and  foss  near  the  church  are  perhaps  the 

remains  of  some  strong  works  which  guarded  this  ancient 

haven 
*  Lib.  iii.  Od.  27- 


RIBCHESTER.  97 

haven  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Setantiorum  Portus,  the  es- 
tuary of  the  Ribble.  Not  only  anchors  have  been  found 
here,  (from  which  it  is  called  Anchor -Mill)  but  rings  of 
ships,  and  even  a  ship  itself.  The  last  was  discovered 
about  twelve  years  ago,  by  sinking  a  well  for  a  pump.  Its 
dimensions  are  not  known,  nor  can  they  be  found  without 
pulling  down  some  building  with  which  part  is  now  co- 
vered. 

Camden  supposes  this  place  to  have  been  the  Coccium  of 
Antonine,  and  the  Rigodunum  of  Ptolemy.  Mr.  Horsley  in- 
clines to  the  first ;  but  wishes  to  make  Warrington  the  an- 
cient Rigodunum  :  the  learned  Whitaker  tells  us  it  must  be 
the  Rerigonium  of  his  beloved  Richard  of  Cirencester.  I 
will  not  dispute  the  point :  it  is  evident  it  had  been  a  Ro- 
man station.  What  we  gain  by  these  topographical  disqui- 
sitions, is  the  knowledge  of  the  means  which  the  wise  Ro- 
mans had  of  keeping  so  great  an  extent  of  country  in  sub- 
jection with  so  small  a  force,  by  the  judicious  choice  of 
stations,  so  placed  as  to  be  a  mutual  aid  to  each  other,  as- 
sisted by  roads  from  one  to  the  other,  so  that  a  body  of - 
troops  could  be  readily  assembled  on  any  insurrection. 

This  place  was  calculated  for  trade  as  well  as  defence. 
Confined  as  the  river  is  now,  a  tide,  in  the  time  of  the 

o  Romans, 


1)8  ■  RIBCHESTER. 

Romans,  and  probably  long  after,  flowed  over  the  whole 
plain,  near  as  high  as  Salesbury.  It  apparently  had  been 
an  estuary :  the  sight  of  this  tract  proves  it  on  first  in- 
spection. The  flat  is  bounded  on  each  side  by  high 
banks :  the  intervening  level,  on  examination,  proves  of  a 
different  species  of  soil,  deep,  miry,  and  evidently  adventi- 
tious, or  of  more  recent  formation.  The  retreat  of  the  tide 
is  supported  by  most  excellent  authority.  Leland  was  eye- 
witness to  its  flowing  more  than  half  way  between  Preston 
and  Rib chester  #,  at  the  time  he  made  his  survey,  which 
was  between  the  years  1530  and  1542.  The  tides  at  pre- 
sent never  reach  further  than  Brocket-hall,  two  miles  above 
Preston,  and  eight  from  this  station ;  so  that  in  less  than 
two  hundred  and  forty  years  the  tides  have  made  a  retreat 
of  three  miles,  the  whole  distance  between  Preston  and 
Ribcliester  being  ten.  What  the  sea  has  lost  here,  it  has 
gained  in  a  place  not  very  remote ;  for,  in  Furness,  several 
hundred  acres  have  been  overwhelmed  by  that  encroach 
ing  element  -f. 

Probably  no  very  large  ships  ever  came  up  as  high  as 
.Ribcliester,  the  true  Portus  Setantiorum,.  or  haven  of  Lan- 
cashire, which  lay  within  the  neb  of  the  ness,  a  point  which 
juts  into  the  estuary  not  very  remote  from  the  sea,  and 

about 
*  Itin.  iv.  23.  f  JV&st"s  Hist.  Furnese,  IntrocL  xxi. 


RIBCHESTER.— ANCIENT  SEATS.  99 

about  ten  miles  from  Preston.  A  Roman  fort  is  said  to 
have  been  on  this  neb,  but  now  washed  away  by  the  fury 
of  the  tides*.  Vestiges  of  a  Roman  road  are  to  be  seen 
pointing  from  Ribchester  to  this  place,  on  Fulwood  Moor, 
and  also  on  Talwood  Moor,  through  Freckleton\,  west  of 
Preston,  which  shew  the  intercourse  there  had  been  be- 
tween the  Portus  and  the  interior  parts  of  the  country. — 
At  present  the  haven  is  in  a  manner  lost ;  the  sands  at  the 
bar  or  mouth  of  the  river  are  perpetually  shifting  by  the 
high  tides ;  and  the  navigation  is  become  so  hazardous,  that 
only  small  vessels  venture  up  with  coals,  groceries,  and 
other  articles,  which  they  discharge  very  near  to  Preston. 

Opposite  to  Ribchester  stand  several  ancient  seats,  such 
as  Osbaldls  ton-hall,  once  the  residence  of  the  great  family 
of  that  name,  sold  by  the  last  owner  about  forty  years  ago; 
the  remainder  of  the  estate-  he  bequeathed  to  a  distant  re- 
lation, a  friend,  and  a  servant.  A  younger  branch  of  the 
family  still  flourishes  at  Ilunmanby  near  Scarborough.  A 
Baronet  descended  from  this  house  had  a  fortune  near  Ox- 
ford. I  remember  Sir  Charles,  I  believe  the  last  of  the 
title,  when  I  was  at  the  University,  a  poor  profligate  old  fel- 
low, who,  in  all  weathers,  went  in  his  waistcoat  only,  and, 
for  a  shilling,  would  at  any  time  leap  up  to  his  neck  in  water. 

o  2  Hothersal- 

*  Whitakcrs  Manchest.  1,  180.  f  Wctt,  2.  JVhitaker,  1.  182. 


100  ANCIENT  SEATS. 

Hothersal-hall  is  another,  the  habitation  of  the  Mother- 
sals,  extinct  about  the  same  time  with  the  Osbaldistons; 
after  the  families  had  possessed  their  seats  for  centuries* 
On  each  side  of  the  river  are,  besides  numbers  of  other 
respectable  houses  as  low  down  as  Preston,  but  now  de- 
serted, such  as  the  Baileys  of  Bailey,  Alstons  of  Alston, 
Radcliffs  of  Dilworth,  Balder  stone  of  Balderstone,  South- 
worth  of  Sa?nlesbury,  Hoghton  of  Grimsargh,  Bindloss  of 
Brockholes,  and  several  others.  It  is  remarkable  that  they 
all  stand  on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  embosomed  once  by 
thick  woods  of  oak,  which  flourished  greatly  on  the  steep 
slope.  This  situation  is  another  proof  of  a  former  estuary, 
being  placed  so  as  to  be  beyond  the  reach  of  the  tide,  and 
yet  near  enough  to  gain  the  benefit  of  it.  The  traveller 
who  pursues  the  meanders  of  the  river  by  Cuerdale,  and 
from  thence  to  Preston,  cannot  fail  of  being  charmed  with 
the  beauty  of  the  ride. 

I  returned  with  Mr.  Aspinal  to  Standen,  repassed  Cli- 
thero,  and,  after  a  ride  of  five  miles  northward,  crossed  a 
nameless  brook  at  Smithy-bridge,  and  again  entered  the 
west  riding  of  Yorkshire. 

■ 

At  a  small  distance  from  hence,  near  the  road,  stand  the 
precincts  of  the  Abbey  of  Salley,  the  barn,  and  some  ivy- 

5  grown 


SALLEY- ABBEY.  101 

grown  fragments.     This  house  was  of  the  Cistertian  order, 
and  was  called  De  monte  Sancti  Andrece,  founded  in  1147, 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  by   Willi  am  de  Perci*,  son  of 
Richard,    and    the    same    who    distinguished    himself    so 
greatly  in  the  battle  of  Northallerton,  called  the  Battle  of 
the  Standard  -j~.     His  motives  were  the  usual  ones  of  the 
time — his  soul's  health,  and  that  of  all  his  relations  and 
friends.      His  endowment  was  small,  and  the  situation,  as 
his  daughter  Matilda  countess  of  Warwick  alleged,  (at  the 
instance  of  the  monks,)  so  damp  and  rainy  that  the  corn        „ 
would  not  ripen ;  therefore,  to  remove  from  her  father  the 
reproach  of  the  misery  and  poverty  of  the  place,  (which  at 
present  is  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  tract  in  all  the 
country,)    she  enabled  the  monks  to  keep  hospitality,  and 
exert  deeds  of  charity,  by  bestowing  on  them  the  church 
of  Tadcaster,  the  chapel  of  Haslewood,  and  a  pension  out 
of  the  church  of  Nentho?i\.     This  was  confirmed  by  her 
sister  Ag?ies,  who  added,  of  her  own  gift§,  pasture  in  her 
estate  of  Litton  for  a  hundred  and  forty  sheep.      She  after- 
wards  gave  two  bovates  of  land  in  the  same  place,  and  in- 
creased the  pasturage  to  sufficient  for  six  hundred.      Ma- 
tilda,  for  her  merits,  was  considered  as  second  founder,  for 
the  abbey  was  about  to  perish  when  she  became  its  pa- 
troness. 

*  Dugclale  Mon.  1.  841,  &c.  f  Dugdale  Baron.  1.  C?0. 

+  Dugclale  Mon.  1.  842.  §  Dugdale  Mon.  843. 


102  S  ALLEY-  ABBEY. 

troness.  Her  grandson,  another  William  de  Perci,  was  a 
considerable  benefactor,  for  he  bestowed  on  it  the  manor 
and  forest  of  Gisborn,  on  payment  of  twenty  marks  annu- 
ally, in  order  to  add  six  monks  presbyters,  who  were  to  pray 
for  his  soul  and  that  of  his  wife  Ellen  y  reserving  the  free- 
holders and  their  services,  arid  the  right  of  hunting,  to  him- 
self and  heirs #.  These  twenty  marks  he  afterwards  be- 
stowed on  the  hospital  of  Sajulon  in  Surrey  \,  to  maintain 
six  chaplains  for  the  same  pious  end.  Other  benefactors 
were,  Robert  Dapifer,  or  sewer  to  the  Founder ;  Robert  de 
Laci,  and  John  de  Laci  constable  of  Chester ;  Malgerus 
Vavosar,  Richard  de  Oterington,  and  Henry  de  Putcaco, 
sort  of  Matilda  de  Perci.  The  Boltons  of  Bolton  were 
also  great  benefactors  :  firstly,  the  abbots  obtained  a  grant 
of  a  wear  upon  their  estates  ;  secondly,  a  moiety  of  the 
hay  of  Bolton  ;  and  thirdly,  in  Edward  T/.'s  time,  a  fourth 

of  the  manor  ^ 

t 

By  the  barbarous  inroads  of  the  Scots  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  II  the  abbey  was  burnt,  and  the  monks  reduced 
to  utter  ruin.  Their  patron,  Henry  de  Perci,  taking  pity, 
bestowed  on  them  the  living  of  Gargrave,  which  was  con- 
firmed to  them  by  the  Pope  on  a  most  humble  petition  of 

Edward, 

*  Dugdah  Baron.  1.  272.         t  See  Monast.  11,  442,  and  Baron.  1,  271. 

%  Mr.  Aspinal, 


BOLTON-HALL.  103 

Edward,  Dei  gratia,  Rex  Anglice,  devotus  filius  suns,  cum 
devotione  pedum  oscula  beatorum  *. 

William  Trafford,  the  last  abbot,  was  executed  at  Lan- 
caster in  1538,  for  denying  the  King's  supremacy.  The 
revenues  of  the  house  were,  according  to  Dugdale, 
1471.  3s.  lOd.  ;  to  Speed,  2211.  15s.  8d.  I  do  not  find 
the  family  to  which  it  was  granted — perhaps  the  Grevilley 
which  had  long  been  owner  of  it :  the  present  is  Mr.  Wedel 
of  Newby,  who  purchased  it  about  twenty  years  ago  from 
Fulke  Gre-ville,  esq. 

I  crossed  the  Ribble  at  Saw  ley-bridge,  and,  after  a  short 

ride,  visited  Bolton-hall.     This  is  one  of  the  few  ancient 

houses  which  existed  at  least  prior  to  the  reign  of  Henry  VI. 

belonging  to  some  of  the  common  gentry.      It  is  a  very 

plain  building ;  the  hall  is  ascended  to  by   several  steps  , 

it  is  very  dark,  has  a  timbered  roof,  and  a  narrow  gallery, 

whose  floor  and  staircase  is  formed  of  massy  oak.     The 

situation  is  on  one   of  the  collines  of  the  country,  finelv 

backed  with  wood,  but  little  less  gloomy  than  when  it  gave 

protection  to  the  vagrant  Henry,  who  by  turns  took  shelter 

in  the  different  houses  of  this  neighbourhood.     He  left 

here  behind  him,  as  memorials,  a  pair  of  boots  of  brown 

tanned 
*  Dugdale  Monast.  1.  847. 


104  BOLTON-HALL. 

banned  leather  lined  with  fur,  the  soles  of  a  most  uncom- 
jiion  narrow  form,  the  legs  furnished  with  buttons  in  the 
spatterdash  fashion,  the  tops  great  and  high. 

Here  are  also  a  pair  of  his  gloves,  which  shew  him  to 
have  had  a  very  small  hand  :  these  are  likewise  furred,  but 
with  no  finer  materials  than  the  hair  of  the  common  deer. 
I  was  also  shewn  the  spoon  that  Henry  used  to  eat  with; 
and  a  well,  in  which  he  is  said  to  have  bathed,  which  was 
for  a  long  time  as  much  venerated  by  the  country -people 
as  that  of  our  St.  Winifred ;  for  the  poor  Prince,  from  the 
innocency  of  his  life,  and  his  great  sufferings,  wanted  nothing 
but  canonization  to  make  him  as  respectable  a  saint  as  most 
in  the  Popish  calendar. 

This  place  is  at  present  owned  by  Christopher  Dawson, 
esq.  in  right  of  his  mother  and  aunt  Pudsey,  heiresses  of 
the  estate.  The  Pudseys  had  been  many  centuries  in  pos- 
session :  they  came  originally  from  Barford  upon  the  Tees, 
and  are  said  to  have  sprung  from  a  natural  son  of  Hugh 
Pudsey  bishop  of  Durham,  who  died  in  1 1Q4.  In  the  reign 
of  Edward  II.  one  of  his  descendants  married  one  of  the  co- 
heiresses of  John  de  Bolton ;  and  from  that  time  the  family 
have  chiefly  resided  here,  Barford  having  been  long  since 
alienated.     The  other  daughter  bestowed  her  share  of  the 

Bolton 


BOLTON-CHURCH.  105 

Bolton  estate  on  Salley-abbey  #.  Bolton-church  is  about  half 
a  mile  north  of  the  hall,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  and  a 
rectory  in  the  gift  of  Mr.  Dawson.  It  has  in  it  several  me- 
morials of  the  Pudsey  family — such  as  an  ancient  font,  said 
to  have  been  brought  from  Forset-church  in  Richmondshire, 
in  which  parish  stands  Barford,  their  former  seat.  About 
the  font  are  the  arms  of  Percy,  Clifford,  Tempest  and  Hamer- 
ton. — Pudsey  and  Laiton  quarterly ;  Pudsey  per  se ;  Banks 
per  pale  ;  Pudsey  and  Tunstal ;  and  this  inscription — Orate 
pro  animabus  Dni  Radulphi  Pudsey  milit.  et  Rmmce  uxor, 
ejus,  et  Dom.  G.  Pudsey,  fil.  ejus,  quondam  rector  eccl.  istius. 

A  very  curious  altar-tomb,  with  a  slab  of  black  marble 
on  the  top  ten  feet  long,  five  feet  nine  inches  wide,  and 
nine  inches  thick.  On  it  is  most  curiously  engraven  the 
figure  of  a  Pudsey  in  armour,  with  his  arms,  three  mullets 
on  his  breast ;  his  head  resting  on  two  deer ;  a  vast  sword 
hangs  on  one  side  of  him,  a  shorter  on  the  other.  On  one 
hand  are  two  of  his  wives,  on  the  other  a  third — all  in 
mantles  down  to  their  heels ;  long  petticoats,  vast  spreading 
caps,  and  with  most  taper  waists.  Beneath  the  parents 
are  three  rows  of  their  offspring,  to  the  amount  of  twenty- 
five,  distinguished  by  their  dresses  as  warriors,  prelates, 
abbots,  gownsmen;  besides  nine  daughters,  in  the  dress  of 

p  the 

*  Dodderidge  MSS. 


106  BOLTON-CHURCH. 

the  times;  and  over  each  is  the  person's  name,  and  an  en- 
graven arch  of  Gothic  foliage. 

It  is  probable  that  the  tomb  here  described  was  designed 
for  Henry  Pudsey  of  Bolton,  esq.  (who  had  a  numerous  issue,) 
as  appears  by  the  following  inscription,  formerly  therein  : — 
"  Hie  jacet  Henricus  Pudsey  arm.  Dns  de  Bolton,  qui 
"  construxerat  hanc  cantariam  M0CCCCC0IX°  :  Et  Mar- 
"  gareta,  uxor  ejus,  quae  obiit  A°  Dni  M°CCCCC°  :  quor. 
"  animabus  propitietur  Deus."  (MSS.  in  Bibl.  J.  C.  Brooke 
de  Coll.  Arm.) 

I  continued  my  journey  a  few  miles  further,  along  a  very 
bad  road ;  crossed  the  Ribble  close  to  Gisburn  Park,  the 
seat  of  Thomas  Lister,  esq.  member  for  Clithero :  the 
ground  is  well  wooded ;  but,  evening  having  overtaken  me, 
I  had  not  leisure  to  visit  the  place.  The  estate  was  (as 
Mr.  Aspinal  informed  me)  devised  by  Sir  John  Ashton,  the 
last  Baronet  of  the  Lever  and  Whalley  branch,  to  Thomas 
Lister,  of  Arnold  Biggens,  great-grandfather  to  the  present 
owner,  out  of  mere  friendship. 

The  entrance  into  the  park  is  between  two  of  the  pret- 
tiest and  richest  modern  Gothic  lodges  I  ever  saw,  yet  ap- 
pear full  of  impropriety,  placed  on  the  side  of  a  dreadful 

road, 


GISBURN-PARK.— MALHAM-DALE.  1 07 

road,  and  near  the  end  of  the  miserable  dirty  little  town  of 
Gisburn,  where  I  lay  this  night.  There  is  nothing  re- 
markable in  its  church,  a  vicarage  now  in  the  gift  of  the 
King ;  formerly  a  propriation  of  the  nunnery  of  Stainfield 
in  Lincolnshire* :,  having  been  bestowed  by  Walter  arch- 
bishop of  York,  with  tithes,  and  some  lands  in  Swin- 
den  \. 

I  pursued  my  tour  along  the  road  to  Settle,  through  Pay- 
thorne,  Newso?n,  and  Happa,  as  far  as  Swinden,  the  last  called 
a  manor  and  township  in  Paghanele,  in  Doomsday-book; 
and  Ghiseburne,  Pathorpe,  and  Neuhuse,  manors,  in  Nappar. 
These,  and  others  adjoined,  such  as  Helifield  and  Malham, 
were  granted  by  the  Conqueror  to  William  de  Perci. 

A  little  beyond  Swinden  I  quitted  the  road  for  a  more 

private  way   through  Helifield,   another    village,    between 

which  and  the  next,  Otterburn,  is  a  large  round  tumulus. 

At  Helifield  is  an  ancient  house  called  Helifield  Peel,  in 

form  of  a  tower,  with  walls  four  or  five  yards  thick.      It  is 

the  residence  of  Mr.  Hamerton,  descended  from  the  very 

ancient  and  wealthy  family  of  the  Hamertons  of  Hamerton, 

whose  ancestor,  Sir  Stephen  Hamerton,  forfeited  his  estate 

in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII. — Passed  through    the   small 

p  2  town 

*  Dugdak's  Mon.  1,  506.  |  Tanner,  275. 


108  MALHAM-DALE. 

town  of  Kirkby  in  Malham-dale,  where  there  is  a  large  and 
neat  church,  once  in  the  gift  of  the  Abbey  of  West  Dere- 
ham in  Norfolk,  now  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire.  The 
country  is  hilly,  but  not  mountainous ;  destitute  of  trees, 
and  farm-houses  and  arable  land,  but  abundant  in  pastur- 
age. The  farmers  live  in  society  in  the  villages,  and  have 
their  barns  and  cattle-houses  in  the  midst  of  their  grounds, 
without  any  adjacent  dwellings;  they  are  under  one  roof: 
here  they  lay  up  their  hay,  and  fodder  their  cattle,  during 
winter.  The  hills  are  excellent  for  sheep,  which  sell  from 
seven  to  twenty  pounds  a  score.  The  farms  are  from 
forty  to  three  hundred  pounds  a-year.  At  this  time  were 
a  hundred  dragoon  horses,  which  are  sent  here  annually  for 
the  summer  grass. 

I  breakfasted  at  the  hamlet  of  Malham,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  farther ;  took  a  walk  by  the  side  of  the  Air 
here,  a  rapid  torrent,  through  a  stony  valley,  to  visit  the 
celebrated  Gordale  Coves,  a  vast  chasm  open  to  the  sky, 
embosomed  in  rock  ;  one  side  projects,  and  in  a  manner 
wraps  round  the  tremendous  concavity,  and  impends  so  as 
to  form  a  vast  hollow  beneath,  sloping  inwards  from  top  to 
bottom.  The  material  is  a  solid  limestone,  with  only  fis- 
sures enough  to  admit  the  growth  of  a  few  large  junipers 
above.  Out  of  the  concavity,  at  a  vast  height,  bursts  forth 
3  a 


MALHAM-DALE.  log 

a  copious  stream,  which  must  have  had  a  fine  effect;  but  the 
passage  having  been  destroyed  by  a  great  flood,  much  of 
its  beauty  is  lost.  This  and  another  stream  from  Gordale- 
scar,  a  tremendous  precipice  a  little  to  the  west,  form  the 
river  Air,  which,  passing  by  Gargrave  near  Skipton  by 
heeds  and  Ferry-bridge,  empties  itself  into  the  Qnse  below 
Armyn-chapel. 

Mr.  Lightfoot  observed  several  very  rare  plants  about  these 
picturesque  scenes.  At  Malham  Crag,  the  Draba  muralis, 
Fl.  A?igl.  1,  278;  and  the  Draba  incana,  Fl.  Sc.  1,  338; 
both  called  in  E?iglish,  Whitlow-grasses,  from  their  sup- 
posed virtue  in  that  disorder  of  the  fingers: — the  Acttea 
spicata,  or  Herb  Christopher,  Fl.  Angl.  1,  228  ;  it  is  also 
called  Bane-berry,  a  stinking  plant,  chiefly  among  the  re- 
pellents, yet  to  be  used  with  caution,  as  the  berries  are 
venomous  ;  perhaps  it  lies  under  worse  repute,  as  toads  de- 
light to  shelter  under  its  shade  *  : — the  Polemonium  cceru- 
leum,  or  Greek  Valerian,  and  a  variety  with  a  white  flower; 
the  Saxifraga  hypnoides,  or  Moss  Saxifrage,  FL  Sc.  1 ,  224 ; 
and  the  Satyrium  albidum,  or  White  Satyrion  : — and  on 
the  stones  of  the  rivulet,  which  issues  from  the  crag,  the 
Lichenoides  gelatinosum  foliis  angustioribus  uniformibus  of 
Dillenius  «J>. 

At 

f  Fl.  Suec.  p.  181.  t  Hist-  Muse.  US,  tab.  ix,  fig.  28. 


110  MALHAM-DALE. 

At  Gordale  Cove  are  found  also  the  Greek  Valeria?!,  and 
the  Thalictrum  minus,  or  small  Bastard  Rhubarb,  or  Mea- 
dow Rue,  whose  leaves,  mixed  with  other  pot-herbs,  says 
old  Gerard,  do  somewhat  move  the  belly. 

I  returned  to  Malham,  ascended  a  steep  hill,  and  crossed 
a  range  of  mountains  over  a  bad  and  unfrequented  road, 
with  a  most  dreary  prospect  around,  of  vast  extent  of  stony 
mountain,  mixed  with  scanty  pasturage.  Gordale-scar  ap- 
peared to  great  advantage  beneath,  the  sun  shining  full  on 
it,  and  shewing  its  precipitous  surface  as  smooth  and  re- 
splendent as  glass. 

I  saw  Malham-turn  in  a  bottom  amidst  the  hills,  a  small 
lake  about  two  miles  round,  famous  for  trout  and  perch. 
The  waters  which  flow  from  this  lake  immediately  sink 
under  ground,  and  form  a  subterraneous  river  about  half  a 
mile  in  length,  and  appear  again,  in  open  day,  bursting 
out  from  the  precipice  of  Gordale-scar. 

The  stones  on  the  hills  I  was  travelling  over  were  abun- 
dantly scattered  about,  and  of  singular  structure,  flatted  at 
top,  and  laminated  beneath,  evidently  the  work  of  water, 
and  the  nodular  subsidences  at  the  great  event  of  the 
Deluge. 

Cloud 


SETTLE.  1 11 

Cloud  Berries  *  are  found  plentifully  on  the  moors  be- 
tween Malham  and  Settle.  They  take  their  name  from 
their  lofty  situation.  I  have  seen  the  berries  in  the  High- 
lands of  Scotland  served  as  a  desert.  The  Swedes  and 
Norwegians  preserve  great  quantities  in  autumn  to  make 
tarts  and  other  confections,  and  esteem  them  as  excel- 
lent antiscorbutics.  The  Laplanders  bruise  and  eat  them 
in  the  milk  of  rein  deer,  and  preserve  them  quite  fresh  till 
spring  by  burying  them  in  the  snow. 

I  descended  an  exceedingly  tedious  and  steep  road,  having 
on  the  right  a  range  of  rocky  hills  with  broken  precipitous 
fronts.  At  the  foot  of  a  monstrous  lime-stone  rock,  called 
Castleberg,  that  threatens  destruction,  lies  Settle,  a  small 
town  in  a  little  vale,  exactly  resembling  a  shabby  French 
town  with  a  place  in  the  middle.  Numbers  of  coiners  and 
filers  lived  about  the  place,  at  this  time  entirely  out  of 
work,  by  reason  of  the  recent  salutary  law  respecting  the 
weight  of  gold. 

I  dined  here  at  the  neatest  and  most  comfortable  little 
inn  I  ever  was  at,  rendered  more  agreeable  by  the  civility 
and  attention  of  the  landlady.  This  is  a  market  town,  and 
has  a  small  trade  in  knit-worsted  stockings,  which  are  made 

. ,  here 

*  Rubus  Chamaemorus,  Fl.  Scot.  I,  266.  Hudsoji,  1,  221. 


1 1 2  SETTLE.— GIGGLESWICK. 

here  from  two  to  five  shillings  a  pair.     The  great  hill  of 
Penygent  is  seen  from  hence,  and  is  about  six  miles  distant. 

Settle  is  destitute  of  a  church;  its  parish  is  that  of  Gig- 
gleswick,  higher  up  the  vale,  which  I  passed  after  crossing 
the  Ribble,  which  hurries  from  its  source  a  few  miles 
higher,  on  the  back  of  Wharnside-hill,  between  Blea-moor 
and  Snays-fell. 

This  parish  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  manors  belong- 
ing to  the  Percies.  I  believe  it  to  have  been  included 
among  the  eighty-six  in  this  county  granted  by  the  Con- 
queror to  William  de  Perci,  one  of  his  Norman  followers  # ; 
but  the  first  time  I  find  mention  of  the  manor  of  Settle,  as 
their  property,  is  in  1230,  the  fifteenth  of  Henry  III.  f 

A  little  beyond  the  village,  the  road  is  continued  on  the 
right  side  of  the  vale,  beneath  a  long  and  lofty  scar  of  the 
same  name.  It  runs  for  a  mile  in  length ;  the  height  de- 
creases with  the  ascent  of  the  road,  but  preserves  a  level  on 
its  top  the  whole  way.  This  scar  is  of  white  limestone, 
finely  overgrown  with  ivy,  has  a  mineral  appearance,  and 
bits  of  lead  ore,  found  in  forming  the  turnpike-road,  give 
earnest  of  important  discovery. 

The 

*  Dugdale's  Baron.  I,  £69.  t  The  same>  P-  e7L 


EBBING  WELL.  113 

The  famous  flowing  spring  lies  on  the  road  side  beneath  Ebbing  Well. 
this  scar.  It  is  a  well  of  small  size,  which  ebbs  and  flows 
once  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  sometimes  with  that 
force  as  to  rise  a  foot  high.  I  watched  it  for  some  time, 
but  it  happened  to  be  quiescent ;  my  patience  was  ex- 
hausted,  and  I  pursued  my  journey. 

The  Potentilla  verna,  ox  Vernal  Cinquef oil,  Fl.  Sc.  1,  270, 
is  found  near  this  well ;  and  those  who  delight  in  mosses, 
may  discover,  on  the  adjacent  rocks,  the  Lichen  crinitus 
and  polyrhizos,  Fl.  Sc.  11,  860  and  864. 

From  this  spot  I  had  a  fine  view  of  Pendle-hill,  which 
appeared  quite  insulated. 

On  gaining  the  summit  of  the  road,  the  Apennines  of 
England  appeared  full  in  view  ;  the  tops  often  rise  into 
little  mounts,  and  the  sides  very  rocky.  On  the  left  is  a 
flat  bounded  by  heathy  hills,  and  intermixed  with  dreary 
moors. 

I  passed  through  the  village  of  Clapham.  The  cure  is  a 
vicarage  in  the  diocese  of  Chester,  as  most  of  this  country 
are.  From  hence  I  had  a  full  sight  of  Fur ness -fells,  which 
form  a  magnificent  mass  in  the  distant  view. 

a  I  de- 


1 1 4  INGLEBOROUGH-HILL.— PLANTS. 

I  descended  to  Ingleton,  a  small  town  and  chapelry  in 
the  parish  of  Rentham,  seated  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
mountain  of  Ingleborough,  which  looks  like  Ossa  upon  Pe- 
lion,  and  is  well  described  by  Camden,  as  stretching  with 
its  vast  back  rising  towards  the  west,  with  another  hill,  as 
if  flung  upon  its  extremity.  I  had  not  leisure  to  visit  it ; 
but  was  informed  that  it  was  well  worth  a  traveller's  atten- 
tion, on  account  of  the  immense  caverns  it  abounds  with, 
and  the  various  plants  very  rare  in  other  places.  This  is 
reckoned  the  highest  ground  in  England  in  respect  to  the 
sea,  and  I  believe  with  truth.  Its  situation  is  pretty  cen- 
tral, and  its  cumulated  acquisition  of  height  very  great. — 
Its  name  shews  its  pre-eminence — Ingleborough,  the  bo- 
rough, berg  or  hill  of  England.  Several  rivers  arise  with- 
in this  chain,  which  take  their  courses  into  different  seas :  - 
the  L#7Z<?and  the  Kibble  flow  into  the  western;  the  Wharf, 
the  Ure,  and  the  Nid,  into  the  eastern  sea. 

Plants.  Among  the  plants  the  Botanist  will  find  that  pigmy  wil- 

low the  Salix  herbacea,  Fl.  Sc.  11,  (300 ;  and  the  S.  reticu- 
lata, or  Wrinkled  Willow,  601.  The  sweet  plant  the  Rho- 
diola  rosea.,  or  Rosewort,  Fl.  Sc.  11,  OlQ,  grows  here ;  use- 
ful to  the  Greenlanders,  for  food  ;  to  the  natives  of  the  Feroe 
Isles,  in  the  scurvy ;  the  fresh  roots,  applied  in  form  of  a 
eataplasm,  are  said  to  relieve  the  headach,  and  to  heal  ma- 
lignant 


PLANTS.  115 

lignant  ulcers  :  a  water,  fragrant  as  that  of  roses,  may  be 
distilled  from  them.  Those  elegant  plants  the  saxifraga 
oppositifolia  and  autumnalis,  FL  Sc.  1,  222,  are  to  be  met 
with  here  ;  and  the  Actcea  spicata,  spoken  of  before. 

'My  friend  met  with,  here,  the  Epilobium  angustifolium,  or 
Rosebay  Willow  Herb,  FL  Sc.  1,  IQ6,  a  flowering  plant 
worthy  of  our  gardens.  We  have  of  late  discovered  that 
the  down  of  the  seeds  has  been  manufactured  with  cotton, 
or  beaver's  hair,  into  stockings,  filleting,  bindings,  &c.  The 
down  is  obtained  by  drying  the  seed-vessels  in  an  oven, 
then  thrashing  and  riddling  the  seeds  from  the  down,  which 
is  carded  with  the  cotton  or  fur#.  The  beastly  Kamtscha- 
dales  brew  a  sort  of  ale  from  the  pith,  and  have  invented 
an  intoxicating  liquor  from  the  infusion  of  the  leaves;  they 
also  eat  the  young  shoots  which  trail  beneath  the  ground. 

To  these  plants  I  must  add  the  Ophrys  cordata,  or  Heart- 
shaped  Tw ay-blade,  FL  Sc.  1,  524;  the  Sedum  villosum, 
or  Marsh  Stonecrop,  FL  Sc.  1,  237;  and  the  Lichen  aphto- 
sus,  or  Green-ground  Liverwort,  Fl.Sc.  1 1,848.  It  takes  its 
trivial  name  from  the  use  made  of  it  by  the  people  of  Uplaed 
in  Sweden,  who,  in  cases  of  the  aptha  or  thrush  in  chil- 
dren, give  them  an  infusion  of  this  plant  in  milk.     A  de- 

o  2  coction 

*  Holler,  \,  427. 


110  PLANTS. 

coction  of  it  in  water  is  besides  used  in  Sweden,  which 
operates  as  a  purge  and  vomit,  and  is  efficacious  in  worm 
complaints. 

The  Lycopodium  alpinum,  and  Selago,  FL  Sc.  11,  687, 
6Q0,  are  common  amidst  these  hills  :  the  last  is  a  most 
valuable  plant  in  the  northern  regions.  The  Swedes  make 
of  it  coarse  mats :  the  Russians  use  the  powder  of  the  cap- 
sules to  heal  galls  in  children,  chopped  skins,  or  other 
sores  :  the  Poles,  with  a  decoction  of  it,  foment  the  heads 
of  those  afflicted  with  the  filthy  disorder  of  their  country, 
the  Plica  polonica,  and,  as  is  said,  effect  the  cure. 

It  is  observed  that  the  capsules  emit  a  light  yellow  pow- 
der, which  flashes  with  a  small  explosion  at  the  flame  of  a 
candle.  Even  this  has  been  turned  to  use,  and  serves  to 
make  artificial  lightening  at  theatrical  entertainments. 

About  the  town  of  Ingleton  are  also  a  few  scarce  plants : 
such  as  the  Serapias  latifoiia,  and  &  longifolia,  FL  Sc.  1, 
526,  528:  the  White  Hellebore,  and  the  Neesewort  of  Ge- 
rard,  442;  and,  to  conclude  the  list,  that  rare  and  singular 
flower  the  Cypripedium  calceolus,  FL  Angl.  1 1 ,  3Q2,  or 
Calceolus  Dnce  Marine,  or  our  Ladys  Slipper  of  old  Gerard, 
443,  so  named  from  its  form,  is  sparingly  met  with  in  a 

wood 


1 


THORNTON-CHURCH.— THE  LUNE.  1 1 7 

wood  adjoining  to  this  place,  and  again  near  Clapham. — 
The  oddity  of  the  plant  has  increased  the  passion  of  Bo- 
tanists for  the  possession,  which  has  rendered  it  still  more 
difficult  to  be  met  with*. 

I  slept  at  Ingleton. 

Next  day  I  went  down  by  Thornton- church,  crossed  two 
bridges  over  two  torrents ;  the  roads  good,  and  the  country 
more  wooded  and  pleasant.  At  the  third  stone  from  In- 
gleto  11  near  a  little  village  called  Messingil^  I  quitted  the 
County  of  York,  and  entered  that  of 

WESTMORELAND; 

and,  after  a  ride  of  about  three  miles,  reached  the  Lime, 
a  river  which  rises  under  Green  Belt  Fell,  and,  after  running 
for  a  considerable  track  almost  due  west,  suddenly  turns  to 
the  south,  and  preserves  that  course  till  it  enters  Lanca- 
shire, 2l  little  below  this,  from  whence  it  tends  south- 
West  till  it  falls  into  the  sea  below  Lancaster.  Here  I 
crossed  the  river  over  a  lofty  bridge  of  three  beautiful  ellip- 
tical arches,  founded  on  the  rocky  bottom  of  the  channel, 
the  banks  of  which  are  steep,  and  prettily  fringed  with  trees. 
Below  the  bridge  was  formerly  a  whirlpool,  formed  by  a 

giant's- 
*  Described  by  Haller,  II.  p.  157.  No.  1300.  tab- 43. 


1 1 8  KIRKBY-LONSDALE. 

giant 's  pot,  or  great  circular  hole  in  the  rock,  but  at  pre- 
sent filled  with  gravel  brought  by  the  floods.  Within  me- 
mory, two  young  men,  excellent  swimmers,  were  drowned 
here,  unable  to  get  out  of  the  vortex. 

Kirkby-Loks-  At  a  small  distance  from  the  bridge  is  Kirkby-Lonsdale, 
a  small  town,  noted  chiefly  for  the  elegant  view  from  the 
church-yard,  and  from  a  fine  walk  continued  from  it  on 
the  verge  of  a  high  slope.  The  prospect  is  diversified  with 
rich  meadows  watered  by  the  Lu?ic,  which  makes  two  bold 
meanders,  with  gentlemen's  seats,  a  wooded  and  cultivated 
tract  creeping  high  up  the  hills,  and  a  boundary  beyond  of 
various  lofty  fells,  with  Ingleborough  shewing  its  distant  top. 

On  the  side  of  the  walk  is  an  exploratory  mount,  sur- 
rounded by  a  ditch,  judiciously  placed,  as  it  commands  a 
distant  view  up  the  vale  now  called  Lonsdale,  which  gives 
the  addition  to  Kirkby,  to  distinguish  it  from  other  places 
of  the  same  name.  It  is  a  parish  of  great  extent,  and  a 
manor  once  belonging  to  the  Abbey  of  St.  Mary  in  York. 
At  the  dissolution  it  was  granted  to  a  family  of  the  Roman 
name  of  Cams,  still  in  being.  After  several  transfers  it  re- 
mains at  this  time  in  the  Earl,  who  takes  his  title  from  the  vale. 

Church.  The  church,  which  had  been  given  to  the  same  Abbey  by 

4  Ivo 


KIRKBY-LONSDALE  CHURCH.  1 19 

lvo  de  Tailebois,  was,  after  the  dissolution,  granted  by  Quee'n 
Mary  to  Trinity  College ;  Cambridge.  Part  of  the  structure 
is  very  ancient ;  the  door  and  some  of  the  arches  are  round  ; 
the  base  of  two  of  the  pillars  very  clumsy;  and  the  shaft  of 
one,  like  those  at  Durham,  adorned  with  lozenge-shaped 
sculpture ;  the  east  window  is  Gothic,  and  has  light  pillars 
detached  from  it.. 

The  mills  of  the  town  are  remarkable,  being  built  on  the 
side  of  a  steep  bank,  and  worked  by  the  water  of  a  brook  con- 
veyed through  the  town.  It  sets  in  motion  seven  wheels,  one 
above  the  other;  one  is  for  the  making  of  snuff,  another  serves 
a  fulling-mill.  Formerly  this  town  enjoyed  a  considerable  ma- 
nufacture of  knit-stockings ,  but  at  present  it  is  greatly  declined. . 

From  hence  I  crossed  the  country  twelve  miles,  (an  un- 
interesting ride,)  to  Kendal.  I  have  nothing  to  add  to  what  Kendal. 
I  have  said  in  my  Tour  to  Scotland,  17  Q§,  except  that  I  saw 
in  the  church  certain  tombs  of  the  Strictlands  of  Sizergh- 
hall,  in  this  neighbourhood  :  one  is  remarkable  for  the 
figure  of  Walter  Strict  land,  a  fat  lad  in  a  loose  gown,  with 
a  most  fulsome  epitaph,  dated  1(556. 

A  mural  monument  of  Sir  Augustine  Nichols,  one  of  the 
Justices  of  the  Common  Pleas,  who  died  here  in  Court,  in 

discharge 


120  KENDAL.— DR.  SHAW. 

discharge  of  his  office  in  1 6 1 0  :  and  on  the  wainscot  of  a 
pew  is  a  brass  plate,  with  the  figure  of  Alan  Bellingham, 
esq.  dressed  in  armour;  he  died  in  1577-  This  Gentle- 
man was  of  Helsington,  near  this  town,  a  Bencher  of  the 
Inner  Temple,  and  Member  for  the  county  in  the  13th  of 
Queen  Elizabeth.  He  was  of  a  very  considerable  family 
in  this  county,  and  died  possessed  of  large  property,  part 
of  the  divided  barony  of  Kendal. 

Doctor  Shaw.  J  am  surprised  that  Dr.  Burn  should  omit  the  men- 
tion of  a  native  of  this  town,  who  would  have  done  honour 
to  >  any  country —  Thomas  Shaw,  the  celebrated  traveller, 
was  born  here  in  lu*Q3  :  he  was  son  of  Gabriel  Shaw, 
shearman  and  dyer,  a  reputable  and  profitable  business.  The 
merit  of  his  travels  in  Bar bary,  Egypt,  and  the  Holy  hand,  are 
justly  held  in  the  highest  estimation,  and  beyond  the  danger 
of  being  either  depreciated  or  superseded.  He  became  Fel- 
low of  Queens  College,  Oxford,  and  was  promoted  to  the 
Headship  of  Edmund-hall',  and,  in  1 75 1 ,  died  in  high  repu- 
tation, for  knowledge,  probity,  and  pleasantry.  His  coun- 
tenance was  grotesque,  but  marked  most  strongly  with  jo- 
cularity and  good-humour,  so  as  to  diffuse  into  the  com-, 
pany  the  full  effects  of  his  innocent  and  instructive  mirth. 
The  print  prefixed  to  his  works  is  a  faithful  representation 
of  this  excellent  and  able  character. 

5  The 


•    •      •  •••.•-  ••- •-  •  •    • 

".  •  ••  .    1  •«•■••    " 

• .    ••*.  •    :  •    .  .  °*.  •  ••  >  ••• 


'"&&am-Arf'?c"'' ' 


Thomas     $hla.w.  J?Zf. 


2*u,b   Ju.rie  7    ?B0?    &ts    Sdtv   JfarvOn?  #6  J^all  MetU 


-v.  i<Vi£ 


BARONY  OF  KENDAL.  1 2 1 

The  first  who  held  this  great  barony  was  Ivo  de  Taile-    Barony  of 

Kendal. 

bqis,  brother  to  Fulk  earl  of  Anjou.  He  came  in  with  the 
Conqueror,  and  received  from  him  that  part  of  Lancashire 
which  joins  to  this  county,  and  all  the  great  tract  after- 
wards styled  the  Barony  of  Kendal.  He  became  the  first 
baron.  It  remained  in  his  family  several  generations; 
then  was  transferred,  by  the  marriage  of  Helwise  daughter 
of  William  de  Lancastre,  to  Gilbert,  son  of  Roger  Fitz- 
Reinfred,  a  potent  man  in  the  reign  of  Richard  I.  On  the 
death  of  William  de  Lancastre  the  third,  who  died  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  III.  the  barony  was  divided  among  his 
three  sisters,  Helwisia,  Alicia,  and  Serota  :  the  last  dying 
without  issue,  it  became  the  property  of  the  survivors. — 
One  share  was  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  Richmond- 
fee,  the  other  by  that  of  the  Marquis  and  the  Lumley-fee*. 

I.  left  Kendal,  and  not  far  from  thence  passed  by  the 
Spittle,  once  an  hospital  for  lepers,  valued  at  the  dissolution 
at  111.  4s.  3d.  a  year.  A  little  beyond  I  began  to  ascend 
the  mountains  :  on  the  left  is  the  narrow  deep  valley  of 
Long  Sladale,  celebrated  for  the  quantity  of  fine  blue  slates 
quarried  out  of  its  neighbourhood.  At  a  distance  soars 
Kentmere-fell :  for  a  long  space  the  road  lies  in  the  midst 
£>f  black  and  dreary  mountains.     I  rode  very  near  to  Shap, 

R  men- 

*  Burn's,  Hist.  1,  30,  &c. 


Burn. 


122  DOCTOR  BURN. 

mentioned  in  my  former  Tour  #,  and,  leaving  it  to  the  left, 
passed  along  an  unpleasant  tract,  mostly  waste,  about  six 
miles  further,  to  Orton,  or  Overton ;  principally  induced 
Rev.  doctor  from  the  wish  to  see  the  Reverend  Doctor  Burn,  author 
of  the  Justice  of  Peace,  and  joint  publisher  with  Joseph 
Nicolson,  esq.  of  the  History  and  Antiquities  of  Cumberland 
and  Westmoreland.  To  these  Gentlemen  this  Journal  is 
much  indebted :  to  the  former,  every  country  gentleman, 
who  assumes  the  useful  character  of  the  magistrate,  owes 
the  greatest  obligation  for  the  clearest  and  safest  guide  in 
his  intricate  and  laborious  office. 

I  had  the  satisfaction  of  dining  with  the  worthy  author, 
and  may  add,  that  to  other  public  services  he  encourages  the 
inclosures  of  the  open  lands,  which  will  give  to  future  times 
cheerful  and  plenteous  harvests,  in  places  where  poverty 
and  negligence  seem  now  to  reign. 

I  continued  my  journey  across  some  commons  towards 
Kirkby  Stephen,  about  eleven  miles  distant.  Not  far  from 
Or  ton,  I  passed  by  the  Lune,  near  the  spot  where  it  begins 
its  southern  direction ;  kept  to  the  east  along  a  turnpike- 
road  in  a  narrow  vale  watered  by  the  Lune,  here  a  small 
stream,  which  I  lost  again  to  the  south,  where  it  takes  its 

rise 
*  Tour  in  Scotland,  1769,  V-  277. 


.    »  >      '  '  » * 


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.    •      '      '  .     •      '    • 

■ 


DR.  FOTHERGIL.— KIRKBY  STEPHEN.  123 

rise  at  no  great  distance  in  Greenbelt-fell  ;  crossed  the 
north  end  of  Ravenston-dale,  a  parish  which  had  the  ho- 
nour of  giving  birth  to  the  late  pious,  benevolent,  learned 
and  humane  Divine  the  Reverend  Dr.   George  Fothergil,    Rev.  Doctor 

.  .  Tlill  •  r    r  •    •  FOTHERGIL. 

under  whom  1  had  the  happiness  or  tour  years  tuition  at 
Queen's  College,  Oxford.  He  was  of  a  respectable  family 
in  this  dale,  and  reckoned  among  his  ancestors  Sir  William 
Fothergil,  standard-bearer  to  Sir  Thomas  Wharton  at  the 
battle  of  Solway  Moss. 

I  reached  Kirkby  Stephen,  a  small  town  in  a  most  fertile        Kirkby 

STEPHEN' 

bottom,  prettily  wooded,  and  bounded  by  verdant  hills.    It 

consists  of  only  one  street  most  irregularly  built,  and  enjoys 

a  small  manufactory  of  knit-worsted  stockings.     The  place 

takes  its  title  from  the  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.      Church. 

Stephen.     It  belonged  to  the  same  Ivo  de  Tailebois,  who 

bestowed  it  on  the  Abbey  of  York.     Notwithstanding  the 

patron  saint  was  St.  Stephen,  the  old  great  bell  was  dedicated 

to  St.  Hugh — S.  Hugo,  or  a  pro  nobis!     On  the  new  great 

bell  is  this  memorial : 

**  Cum  sono  busta  mori,  cum  pulpita  vivere  disce." 

On  the  little  bell  the  founder  wishes  to  immortalize  him- 
self by  these  lines  : — 

"  Be  it  known  to  all  men  that  me  se, 

"  Thomas  Stafford  of  Penrith  made  me." 

R  2  In 


\ 


124  KIRKBY-STEPHEN  TOMBS. 

Tombs.  Jn  the  church  are  numbers  of  monuments  :  among  them 

is  one  of  a  Knight  in  complete  armour,  neck  alone  bare, 
short  hair,  gauntlets  on  his  hands;  he  lies  on  a  fine  altar- 
tomb,  with  six  niches  on  each  side  elegantly  carved,  but  at 
present  robbed  of  the  images.  This  is  called  the  tomb  of 
Sir  Andrew  de  Harcla  earl  oi -Carlisle,  and  once  owner  of 
the  neighbouring  castle  of  the  same  name ;  but  it  is  not 
probable  that  such  posthumous  honours  would  have  been 
permitted  to  have  been  paid  to  a  person  who  suffered  to  the 
utmost  rigour  the  punishment  of  treason.  By  the  arms  it 
appears  to  belong  to  a  Musgrave,  and  possibly  to  Sir  Tho- 
mas de  Musgrave,  purchaser  of  the  lands  of  the  forfeited 
Harcla,  and  who  died  in  or  about  the  fiftieth  year  of  Ed- 
ward III. 

A  plain  altar-tomb  of  black  marble  is  seen  beneath  an 
arch,  on  which  is  this  inscription : — "  Hie  jacet  Ricardus 
"  Musgrave,  miles,  juxta  Elizabethan!  uxorem  ejus,  et  Tho- 
"  mam  filium  et  hseredem  eorum,  qui  obiit  IX  S  die  Novem- 
"  bris  anno  Domini  MCCCCLXIIII.  cujus  animse  propiti- 
"  etur  Deus!  Amen."  On  the  arch  are  the  Musgrave 
arms,  supported  by  a  monkey  and  pelican.  The  Lady  was 
daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  Betham  of  Betham,  in  this  county, 
a  family  of  great  antiquity,  extinct  in  the  reign  of  Hen- 
ry VL* 

On 

*  Bum,  l,  Sg4. 


•  .1  . 

•• 

■ 

*,»*<# 

1 

•«.. 

>.'», 

*        •  •  •  ». 


••••      • ••• 

•  •  ••  • 


AjSTCJLEJVT      Sfiri/PTURBS       aX     RIB  CHESTER 


Anciewt  Tomb   Stone    in   JOrkbyStephbn  Chttuch 


L 


,*is  /     '80/    iy  ^du-  Set-*^i V; 


KIRKBY-STEPHEN  TOMBS,  125 

On  the  floor  is  a  stone,  with  a  cross  engraven  on  it,  a 
shield  with  six  annulets,  the  Musgrave  arms,  and  a  sword 
beneath  it.  This  seems  to  have  belonged  to  some  religious 
warrior  of  the  name,  unless  it  commemorated  a  Lowther, 
who  bore  the  same  arms ;  one  of  the  name  possessed  the 
first  grant  of  Harcla,  after  the  death  of  the  unfortunate 
owner. 

In  a  part  of  the  church  called  Wharton-isle,  belonging 
to  Whar ton-hall,  is  an  altar-tomb,  with  the  effigies  of  Tho- 
mas lord  Wharton  on  the  top  in  armour,  with  short  hair  and 
a  long  beard.  On  one  side  of  him  is  his  first  wife  Eleanor 
daughter  of  Bryan  Staple  ton  esq.  of  Wighill,  Yorkshire  ; 
on  the  other  his  second  wife  Anne  daughter  of  George  earl 
of  Shrewsbury  :  the  sleeves  of  one  of  the  Ladies  are  of  a  most 
enormous  length.  This  nobleman  was  Governor  of  Carlisle 
in  the  thirty-third  of  Henry  VIII.  and  was  greatly  instru- 
mental in  the  infamous  defeat,  or  rather  flight,  of  the  Scots 
at  Solway  Moss ;  and  in  the  first  of  the  following  reign,  he, 
in  concert  with  the  Duke  of  Lenox,  invaded  Scotland,  and 
destroyed  Annan,  the  church  of  which  was  most  obsti- 
nately defended  *.  He  died  in  1508.  The  following  in- 
scriptions on  the  tomb  give  his  history : 

"  Thomas 
*  Ridpatlis  Border  History,  563. 


126  HARCLA-CASTLE. 

"  Thomas  Whartonus jaceo  hie:  Hie  utraque  conjux; 

"  Elionora  suum  hinc,  hinc  habet  Anna  locum. 
'.'  En  tibi  terra  tuum,  carnes  ac  ossa  resume ; 

"  Tu  Caelos  animas,  tu  Deus  alme,  tuum." 

At  the  east  end  of  the  tomb  are  these  lines : 

"  Gens  IVhartona  genus  dat  honores  dextera  victrix 

**  In  Scotos.     Stapletona  domus  mihi  quam  dedit  uxor 

"  Elionora  fecit  ter  bina  prola  parentum  : 

u  Binam  adimunt  teneris,  binam  juvenilibus  annis 

"  Fata  mihi ;  dat  nomen  avi  mihi  bina  superstes. 

"  Anna  secunda  uxor  celebri  est  de  gente  Salopum." 

Harcla-  The  castle  of  Harcla  stood  on  an  eminence  at  a  small 

CASTLE.  t 

distance  from  Kirkby  Stephe?i.  This,  and  the  manor  of  the 
same  name,  as  part  of  the  great  barony  of  Westmoreland, 
was  granted  by  King  John  to  Robert  de  Veteripont,  ?l  most 
potent  baron  of  Norman  descent,  who  died  in  great  power, 
and  highly  trusted  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  This  barony 
continued  in  his  male  heirs  till  the  death  of  his  grandson 
Robert,  who  was  slain  at  the  battle  of  Evesham,  where  he 
took  part  with  the  Barons.  He  left  two  daughters,  Isabella 
and  Ivetta,  oftener  styled  Idonea.  The  King  committed 
these  Ladies,  being  then  very  young,  to  the  guardianship  of 
Roger  de  Clifford  of  Clifford-castle  in  Herefordshire,  and 

Roger 


HARCLA-CASTLE.      *  127 

Roger  de  Leybourne.       According  to  the    custom  of  the 
times,  and  the  real  intent  of  the  trust,  as  soon  as  the  heir- 
esses were  of  proper  age,  they  were  married  to  the  sons  of 
their  guardians — Idonea  to  the  son  of  Leybourne,  and  Isa- 
bella to  Roger  eldest  son  of  Clifford.     On  a  partition  of 
their  fortunes,  Harcla-castle,  among  other  places,  fell  to  the 
last.     This  was  the  Clifford  slain  in  the  attempt  to  pass  the 
Menai  into  Caernarvonshire,  on  the  invasion  of  Wales  by 
Edward  I.  *     On  the  attainder  of  his  grandson  Roger  for 
adhering  to  the  faction  of  the  Earl  of  Lancaster,  this  place, 
with  several  others  in  these  parts,    was    granted  by  Ed- 
ward  II.  to  Sir  Andrew  de  Harcla,  originally  of  an  obscure  Sir  Andrew  di 
family,  which  took  its  name  from  the  manor  and  castle  of 
Hartley  or  Harcla,  in  this  parish.     The  rise  and  fall  of  Sir 
Andrew  were  equally  rapid.     He  was  high  in  favour  with 
Edward  II.  was  appointed  Lord  of  the  Marches,  Sheriff  of 
the  county  of  Westmoreland,  and  Governor  of  the  city  of 
Carlisle,  an  honour  he  had  also  enjoyed  in  the  preceding 
reign.     Hearing  of  the  march  of  the  Earl  of  Lancaster,  to- 
wards the  north,  to  favour  an  invasion  of  the  Scots,  he  sud- 
denly advanced  with  what  forces   he   could   collect,    and, 
posting  himself  on  the  banks  of  the  Ouse  at  Boroughbridge, 
checked  the  progress  of  the  rebellious  Prince,  who  at  first 

attempted 

*  Tour  in  Wales,  Vol.  II.  234—5. 
4 


1 28  SIR  ANDREW  DE  HARCLA. 

attempted  to  corrupt  Harcla  by  bribes,  after  a  repulse  he 
met  with  in  endeavouring  to  pass  a  ford  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  town.      Finding  Harcla  firm  to  his  trust,  and 
hearing  that  Humphrey  de  Bohun,  earl  of  Hereford,  was 
slain  in  a  valiant  effort  to  pass  over  the  bridge,  then  made 
of  wood,  he  lost  all  courage,  was  taken  in  a  chapel  in  the 
town,  and,  seized  with  a  prophetic  spirit,  predicted  to  Sir 
Andrew  his  ignominious  end.     Harcla,  on  this,  was  loaded 
with  honours ;  was  created  Earl  of  Carlisle,  with  remainder 
to  the  male  heirs  of  his  body,  the  first  instance  of  the  kind 
known;  and  was  besides  rewarded  with  most  considerable 
grants.     He  did  not  enjoy  his  good  fortune  above  a  twelve- 
month; for,  in  1323,  envying  the  favour  shewn  by  his  mas- 
His  Fall.   ..  ter  to  the  D'Espensers,  he  most  ungratefully  confederated 
with  the  Scots,  and,  entering  into  a  league   with  Robert 
Bruce,  bound  himself  by  writing  and  by  oath  to  maintain 
Robert  and  his  heirs  on  the  throne  of  Scotland.     It  is  highly 
suspected  that  he  favoured  the  inroad  of  the  Scots  into  York- 
shire, where  Edward  was  very  nearly  taken  at  the  abbey  of 
Byland*.     Harcla  was  suddenly  seized  by  Henry  Eitzhugh 
by  order  of  the  King,  and  very  shortly  brought  to  a  trial, 
condemned  to  suffer  the  death  of  a  traitor  in  all  its  rigour, 
after  being  formally  degraded,  by  having  his  sword  taken 
from  his  side,  and  his  spurs  chopped  from  his  heels,  the  an- 
cient 
*  Leland'%  Collect.  11.  466. 


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WHARTON-HALL.  120 

cient  penalty  of  recreant  knights ;  all  which,  on  March  the 
second,  was  instantly  executed  at  Carlisle  #. 

Scarcely  a  wreck  is  left  of  the  castle,  which  stood  on  an 
eminence  above  the  village  of  Hartley.  On  the  attainder 
of  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,  the  manor  was  granted  to  Ralph 
Nevil  baron  of  Raby,  who  sold  it  to  Thomas  de  Musgrave, 
in  the  posterity  of  whom  it  still  continues.  The  castle 
was  enlarged  and  improved  by  Sir  Richard  Musgrave, 
Knight  of  the  Bath,  and  the  first  Baronet  of  the  name,  who 
died  at  Naples  in  1615.  For  a  long  time  it  was  kept  in 
good  repair,  and  with  Eden-hall  alternately  inhabited  ;  but 
was  demolished  by  the  late  Sir  Christopher  Musgrave,  who 
removed  the  materials  to  repair  his  other  seat. 

One  morning  I  took  a  ride  to  Whar ton-hall,  about  two  Wharton- 
miles  to  the  south  of  Kirkby,  seated  on  the  Eden,  and,  till 
the  ruin  of  the  family,  in  a  noble  park,  at  present  occupied 
by  farmers.  This  had  been  from  very  distant  time  the  resi- 
dence of  the  well-known  name  of  the  Whartons.  The  anti- 
quity of  their  stock  is  far  higher  than  the  herald's  record. 
A  considerable  family  flourished  here  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Edward  I.  Yet  the  first  which  is  mentioned  in  the  Col- 
lege is  Thomas  de  Wharton,  in^the  time  of  Henry  VI.  who 

s  held 

#  Rymer\  Feed.  111.  p.  999. 


\ 


130  WHARTON-HALL. 

held  the  manor  from  Thomas  de  Clifford.  The  house  is 
almost  a  ruin,  and  had  been  very  large.  In  the  kitchen 
are  two  vast  fire-places,  and  in  the  hall  one  twelve  feet 
wide,  melancholy  testimonies  of  the  former  hospitality  of 
the  place,  I  could  not  avoid  enquiring  after  the  celebrated 
Duke 

"  Wharton,  the  scorn  and  wonder  of  our  days, 
"  Whose  ruling  passion  was  the  lust  of  praise: 
"  Born  with  whate'er  could  win  it  from  the  wise, 
"  Women  and  fools  must  like  him  or  he  dies  : 
"  Tho'  wond'ring  Senates  hung  on  all  he  spoke, 
u  The  Club  must  hail  him  master  of  the  joke. 
"  Shall  parts  so  various  aim  at  nothing  new? 
"  He'll  shine  a  Tully,  and  a  Wilmot  too. 
"  Then  turns  repentant,  and  his  God  adores, 
"  With  the  same  spirit  that  he  drinks  and  whores. 
"  Enough  if  all  around  him  but  admire, 
"  And  now  the  Punk  applaud,  and  now  the  Friar. 
"  Thus  with  each  gift  of  nature  and  of  art, 
"  And  wanting  nothing  but  an  honest  heart, 
"  Grown  all  to  all,  from  no  one  vice  exempt, 
"  And  most  contemptible  to  shun  contempt : 
"  His  passion  still  to  covet  gen'ral  praise, 
"  His  life  to  forfeit  it  a  thousand  ways  : 
"  A  constant  bounty  which  no  friend  has  made ; 
"  An  angel-tongue,  which  no  man  can  persuade  ; 


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PENDRAGON-C  ASTLE.  1 3 1 

"  A  fool,  with  more  of  wit  than  half  mankind, 
"  Too  rash  for  thought,  for  action  too  refin'd : 
"  A  tyrant  to  the  wife  his  heart  approves ; 
"  A  rebel  to  the  very  King  he  loves  : 
"  He  dies,  sad  out-cast  of  each  Church  and  State, 
-    "  And  harder  still  flagitious  yet  not  great. 

"  Ask  you  why  Wharton  broke  thro'  every  rule  ? 
"  'Twas  all  for  fear  the  knaves  should  call  him  fool." 

I  discovered  that  people  now  living  well  remembered 
this  British  Clodio,  and  bear  witness  to  the  justice  of  the 
description  of  the  profligate  part  of  his  character ;  of  his 
affecting  to  hunt  upon  Sundays,  and  shewing  in  all  his  ac- 
tions an  equal  contempt  of  the  Laws  of  God  and  Man. 

I  proceeded  along  a  narrow  vale  watered  by  the  Eden,  and 
passed  by  a  very  ancient  square  tower  called  Lamer  side-hall, 
formerly  by  the  sad  name  of  the  Dolorous  Tower.  Some- 
thing was  told  me  of  a  Sir  Tarquin  and  Sir  Caledos,  so  that 
probably  the  place  had  been  the  subject  of  dire  adventure. 

About  a  mile  further  I  reached  Pendr agon- castle,  a  small  peNDragok- 
but  strong  square  building,  with  great  marks  of  age  on  all 
its  parts.     The  foundation  of  this  castle  is  ascribed  to  the 
great  British  hero,    Uther  Pe?idragon,   the  father  of  the 
greater  Arthur.     It  is  notorious  what  feats  Pendragon  ac- 

s  2  complished 


CASTLE. 


1 32  PENDRAGON-CASTLE. 

complished  by  art-magic,  assisted  by  his  friend  the  sage 
Merlin.  By  his  aid,  he  assumed  the  form  of  King  Gorlois, 
deceived  all  his  guards,  and,  during  his  Majesty's  absence 
on  an  important  siege,  got  access  to  the  fair  Queen  Igerna, 
and  passed  a  rapturous  night  with  the  unwitting  charmer 
in  the  castle  of  Tintagal*.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  river 
Eden  baffled  all  his  attempts  to  make  it  surround  his  new 
fortress — a  Queen  was  an  easier  conquest. 

"  Let  Uther  Pendragon  do  what  he  can, 
"  Eden  will  run  where  Eden  ran." 

It  still  preserves  its  old  course,  and  a  deep  foss  on  the 
more  defenceless  side  supplies  the  place  of  the  obstinate 
stream.  A  well  near  it  commemorates  another  piece  of 
history  relative  to  our  Prince  :  in  this  it  is  said  the  trea- 
cherous Saxons,  who  did  not  dare  to  face  him  in  the  field, 
flung  poison ;  he  drank  of  this  his  favourite  spring,  and, 
with  a  hundred  of  his  courtiers,  fell  victims  to  their  vil- 
lainy *f\  I  will  not  insist  on  this  great  antiquity  of  the 
castle  ;  it  possibly  may  have  been  British  :  it  is  of  a  square 
form,  of  vast  thickness,  and  with  rudeness  enough  for  an 
early  period.  It  certainly  is  of  very  long  standing,  having 
been,  as  Anne  Clifford  informs  us  in  her  Diary,  the  beloved 

seat 
*  Jeffrey  of  Monmouth,  lib.  viii.  p.  19.  \  Same,  c.  24. 


PENDRAGON-CASTLE.  1 33 

seat  of  Idonea,  daughter  of  Robert  de  Veteripont,  a  lady 
who  died  either  in  the  latter  end  of  Henry  III.  or  begin- 
ning of  the  reign  of  Edward  1.     Little  of  its  history  is 
preserved  :  it  was  burnt  in  an  inroad  of  the  Scots  about  the 
year  1341  ;  was  restored  and  sunk  again  in  that  of  1541, 
it  having,  as  the  inscription  informs  us,  lain  ruinous  from 
that  year  to  1660,  when  it  was  repaired  by  the  celebrated 
heroine  Anne,  who  relates  in  the  same  inscription  that  she 
came  to  lie  in  it  herself  for  a  little  while  in  October  l66l. 
We  are  informed  in  her  Diary,  that  she  took  up  the  design 
as  early  as  the  year  1615,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  a 
library  for  a  Mr.  Christopher  Wolridge,  who  probably  never 
lived  to  the  time  in  which  she  was  able  to  bring  it   into 
execution.     The  inscription  at  the  conclusion  refers  to  this 
most  apt  text :   "  And  they  that  shall  be  of  thee  shall  build 
"  the  old  waste  places  :   thou  shalt  raise  up  the  foundations 
"  of  many  generations,  and  thou  shalt  be  called  the  repairer 
"  of  the  breach,  the  restorer  of  paths  to  dwell  in."    Isaiah, 
ch.  lviii.  verse  1 2. — No  person  ever  merited  the  application 
so  strongly.     She  restored  six  of  the  castles  of  her  ances- 
tors,  Brough,  Brougham,   Appleby,  Bar  den   Tower,  Skip- 
ton,  and  that  in  question.     To  give  an  easy  access  to  the 
castle,  she  built  the  neighbouring  bridge  over  the  Eden,  and 
at  a  small  distance  beneath  the  castle  she  built  stables  and 
other  offices,  but  their  place  is  only  marked  by  the  ruins. 

She 


1 U  WILD-BOAR-FELL. 

She  restored  seven  churches  or  chapels ;  founded  one  hos- 
pital, and  repaired  another;  lived  in  great  hospitality  by 
turns  in  each  of  her  castles,  on  the  beautiful  motive  of  find- 
ing occasion  to  lay  out  the  produce  of  her  vast  estates 
among  her  tenants,  or  the  indigent  most  deserving  of  her 
charity*.  » 

The  view  from  the  castle  southward  is  along  a  valley 
Wild-boar-  terminating  with  Wild-boar -fell,  which  impends  with  a 
great  cape-like  head  over  the  country,  soaring  to  a  great 
height,  and  at  its  base  is  the  fountain  of  the  river  Ede?i.  I 
Sten crake-  returned  to  Kirkby  over  Stencrake-bridge,  a  single  arch,  of 
a  great  height,  flung  over  the  Ede?i  from  rock  to  rock  : 
above  the  river  it  forms  a  lofty  cataract,  and  rushes  over  a 
most  rugged  channel,  shagged  with  trees — a  most  pic- 
turesque scene!  Below  the  bridge  is  a  bason  of  water  four- 
teen feet  deep.  In  the  low  state  in  which  I  saw  it,  the 
waters  pass  through  so  narrow  a  gap  in  the  stone  that  I 
spanned  the  top  with  my  hand,  but  just  beneath  it  has 
worn  the  channel  to  a  great  width.  Above  the  bridge  the 
rock  is  hollowed  into  multitudes  of  circular  holes,  from  one 
foot  to  six  in  diameter,  and  from  the  depth  of  six  inches  to 
that  of  two  yards,  according  to  the  space  in  which  they 
have  been  formed.     The  channel  is  quite  honey-combed 

with 
*  See  more  in  Tour  in  Scotland,  1772,  Vol.  II.  p.  359. 


BRIDGE. 


STENCRAKE-BRIDGE.  1 35 

with  these  giant's-pots,  as  they  are  called  in  Sweden. — 
They  certainly  are  not  Druidical,  as  some  have  conjectured, 
but  owe  their  formation  to  the  vortiginous  fury  of  floods, 
which  whirls  about  the  pebbles  or  gravel  with  such  force 
as  to  bore,  I  may  say,  these  singular  cavities. 

Out  of  the  eleven  townships  in  this  parish,  only  two  are 
freehold  ;  the  rest  are  what  are  called  in  this  county  cus- 
tomary tenants,  holding  their  lands  from  the  lord  by  a  small 
but  fixed  acknowledgment,  and  a  fine  on  the  death  of  the 
possessor.  None  of  these  can  vote  for  members  of  Parlia- 
ment ;  none  can  sell  them  without  consent  of  their  lord ; 
none  can  leave  them  from  their  son  by  will;  and,  in  case  of 
want  of  a  son,  the  eldest  daughter  is  heiress.  The  posses- 
sor cannot  dispose  of  any  part  by  will,  but  must  provide 
for  his  younger  children  by  a  deed.  These  tenures,  which 
pervade  I  believe  through  the  county,  arose  from  grants 
made  in  ages  when  land  was  of  little  value,  and  bestowed 
by  lords  on  their  villains,  as  a  relaxation  of  the  severity  of 
vassalage. 

I  then  left  Kirkby-Stephen,  and  continued  my  journey  three      brough. 
or  four  miles  northward  to  Brough  ox  Church  Brough,  a  vil- 
lage noted  for  its  ancient  castle,  probably  built  on  the  site 
of  the  Roman  station  Verterce,  where  was  placed  a  band  of 

3  Directores, 


136  BROUGH-CASTLE. 

Directores*,  a  sort  of  soldiery  supposed  to  have  been  em- 
ployed as  guides.  The  castle  which  they  occupied  gave 
the  name  which  it  retains  at  present,  a  little  corrupted,  the 
Roman  appellation  to  their  castlelets  being  Burgus  \ ;  and 
numbers  of  places  abroad,  as  well  as  in  Britain,  retain  the 
name,  either  simply  or  in  addition,  for  the  same  reason, 
such  as  Wurtzburg,  Ausburg,  and  others  ;  and  the  Roman 
mount  at  Leyde?i  still  preserves  the  name  of  the  Burgh. — 
I  cannot  trace  the  founder  of  the  present  castle  :  from  the 
square  form  of  the  towers,  it  was  certainly  of  Norman  origin, 
—probably  very  early,  for  in  1 174  it  was  garrisoned  by  the 
E?iglish,  and  taken  by  William  king  of  Scotland  in  an  in- 
road made  by  him  in  the  absence  of  our  great  monarch 
Henry,  but  which  soon  after  lost  him  his  liberty,  being  de- 
feated and  taken  by  some  gallant  leaders  on  his  retreat  from 
the  siege  of  Alnwick.  It  had  been  a  considerable  place : 
some  square  towers  remain ;  the  Keep,  called  Ccesars  Tower, 
is  the  most  considerable.  At  one  side  of  the  castle  are  the 
ruins  of  a  rounder,  an  addition  it  must  have  received  long 
after  its  foundation.  It  had  been  protected  by  vast  fosses; 
those  on  one  side  are  double,  and  have  between  them  a  high 
space,  possibly  the  very  site  of  the  Roman  Burgus.  This 
castle  was  the  property  of  Robert  de  Veteripont,  and  passed 

through 

*  See  the  Notitia  in  Horsley. 
t  Vegetius,  lib.  iv.  c.  10.  and  the  comments  on  it. 


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BROUGH-CHURCH.— HELBEC-HALL.  137 

through  his  descendants  to  the  great  family  of  the  Cliffords. 
Henry  lord  Clifford,  surnamed  the  Shepherd,  kept  here  a 
magnificent  Christmas;  soon  after  which,  in  1521,  it  was 
accidentally  burnt  down,  and  continued  in  ruins  till  it  was 
restored  by  his  celebrated  descendant  Anne  Clifford,  as  the 
inscription  over  the  gate,  (similar  to  that  at  Pendragon,) 
before  it  was  taken  down,  recorded. 

The  church  stands  below  the  castle.  It  is  in  the  gift  of  Casam, 
Queen's  College,  Oxford.  The  famous  Robert  de  Eglesjield, 
Confessor  to  Philippa  the  royal  consort  of  Edward  III.  and 
founder  of  that  College,  procured  the  grant  of  it  from  the 
King  :  he  himself  had  been  Rector  of  the  living.  He  was 
prosecuted  by  the  Bishop  for  non-residence;  but  pleading 
the  necessity  of  attending  the  care  of  the  royal  conscience, 
easily  obtained  dispensation  :  ever  since  which  time,  it  is 
said,  the  King's  chaplains  plead  the  same  excuse;  which  is 
admitted  i>y  our  courteous  Bishops,  who  well  know  the 
weight  of  the  charge. 

On  leaving Brough,  I  saw,  on  the  right,  Helbec-hall,  seated   Helbec-hall. 
in  a  wood.     This,  and  the  manor  of  the  same  name,  had 
been  the  property  of  the  He/bees  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Henry  II.     In  that  of  Edward  II.  it  passed  into  the  family 
of  the  Blefikensops,  by  a  marriage  with  Isabella,  daughter 

t  and 


138  WARCOP-HALL. 

and  heiress  to  Thomas  de  Hellebec,  knight  of  the  shire  for 
the  county,  and  last  male  heir  of  the  name.     The  Blenken- 
sops  flourished  here  till  the  time  of  Charles  I.  when  one  of  * 
the  name  of  Thomas  alienated  the  estates  of  the  family. 

Warcop-hall.  On  the  left  is  Warcop-hall,  once  the  property  of  a  most 
ancient  and  considerable  family,  but  transferred  by  sale,  in 
the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  to  the  Br ait hwaites  :  it  of  late 
years  passed  into  other  names. 

I  traversed  Sandford -heath,  over  which  runs  the  Roman 
road,  which  is  continued  through  the  county  from  Brotigham 
by  Verterce,  thence  by  Stanmore,  and  Maiden-castle,  a  small 
Roman  fort,  and  again  by  Rerecross,  where  there  is  another 
small  fort,  near  which  it  enters  Yorkshire,  pointing  in  a  line 
to  the  station  near  Greata-bridge.  Small  encampments 
are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  heath,  and  some  ttimuli  of  a 
considerable  size.  The  country  to  the  right  is  bounded  by 
rude  rocky  fells,  and  to  the  left  rises  prettily  into  small  in- 
closed hills. 

From  an  eminence  I  had  a  fine  view  of  Appleby-castle, 
and  the  windings  of  the  Eden  beneath  its  lofty  wooded 
banks.  In  descending  I  passed  by  the  little  church  of 
Bondgate,  so  called  from  its  having  been  in  feudal  times 

3  the 


.•> 


••••    ...■. 

*  •  »  » •  •  * 


1 


s 

s 
Pi 

«1 


APPLEBY.  13Q 

the  seat  of  the  villains  or  bondsmen  attendant  on  the  castle. 
It  is  likewise,  from  its  tutelar  saint,  called  St.  MichaeVs. 
This  was  one  of  the  churches  repaired  by  the  piety  of  Anne 
Clifford.  After  crossing  a  bridge  guarded  by  a  gateway, 
since  pulled  down,  I  entered  the  small  town  of  Appleby,  Appleby. 
consisting  of  a  single  street  irregularly  built  on  the  steep 
slope  of  a  hill :  on  the  summit  is  the  castle.  *  There  are  no 
remains  of  the  ancient  structure  except  a  square  tower  called 
C&sar's,  insulated  from  all  other  buildings.  The  principal 
edifice,  of  a  square  form,  was  built  in  1686,  by  Thomas  earl 
of  Thanet,  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle.  In  the  hall  is  a 
copy  of  the  great  picture  of  George  Clifford ear\ofCu?nber land, 
and  his  family,  taken  from  that  in  Skipton.  I  will  not  re- 
peat what  I  have  so  fully  described  in  another  place.  Here 
is  also  preserved  the  magnificent  suit  of  armour  worn  by 
him  in  the  tilt-yard  as  champion  to  his  royal  mistress  :  it  is 
richly  gilt,  and  ornamented  with  fleurs  de  lys ;  his  horse- 
armour,  of  equal  splendour,  lies  by  it.  The  history  of  this 
hero,  and  his  heroic  daughter  Anne  Clifford,  is  related  in 
that  of  the  picture.  I  shall  only  add,  that  she  often  sat  in 
person  as  hereditary  Sheriff  of  the  County  of  Westmoreland 
in  this  castle,  an  honour  brought  into  her  family  by  her 
ancestress  Sybilla,  and  which  had  been  conferred  on  the 
great-grandfather  of  that  lady,  Robert  de  Veteripont,  by  King 

t  2  John, 


140  APPLEBY. 

John,  and  continued  to  her  descendant  the  present  Earl  of 
Thanet,  who,  in  right  of  this  his  great  ancestress,  owns  also 
Skipton,  Pendragon,  Brough,  and  Brougham-castles,  and  I 
believe  Barden-tower  in  Yorkshire.  The  assizes  are  held 
in  this  town,  and  the  Judges  entertained  at  the  expence 
of  the  Sheriff. 

I  cannot  trace  the  original  founder  of  the  castle ;  but, 
from  the  style  of  the  square  tower  or  keep,  conjecture  it  to 
have  been  of  the  same  aera  with  that  of  Brough  and  other 
Norman  castles  of  the  country.  Doctor  Burn  says,  that 
Thomas  lord  Clifford  built  the  greatest  part  as  it  now  stands; 
but  it  is  evident  that  part  was  the  work  of  the  last  century, 
and  the  keep  long  before  the  days  of  that  fierce  Baron. — 
The  town,  and  probably  the  castle,  had  suffered  many  mis- 
fortunes from  the  inroads  of  the  Scots.  There  was  a  castle 
here  in  1 1 74,  which  was  committed  by  Henry  II.  to  the 
care  of  Gospatric  son  of  Orme,  who,  in  1 175,  was  fined  five 
hundred  marks,  and  several  of  his  officers  in  lesser  sums,  for 
delivering  it  up  to  William  the  Lion,  in  his  barbarous  inva- 
sion of  the  north.  In  1388  the  town  underwent  a  stroke 
which  it  never  recovered,  having  been  totally  burnt  and 
wasted  by  those  cruel  invaders ;  so  that,  on  requisition  made 
in  the  reigns  of  Henry  VIII.  and  of  Philip  and  Mary,  it  was 
4  found 


APPLEBY.  141 

found  wholly  unable  to  pay  the  usual  rent  of  twenty  marks 
to  the  Crown,  which  was  reduced  in  future  to  26s.  8d. # 
The  spirit  of  Anne  Clifford  appeared  very  fully  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  troubles  of  the  last  century ;  for,  in  defiance 
of  her  disloyal  simpleton,  she  fortified  this  castle  for  the 
King,  and  gave  the  government  of  it  to  her  neighbour,  Sir 
Philip  Musgrave\.  It  remained  in  possession  of  the  Loy- 
alists till  October  1648,  in  which  year  it  was  surrendered 
to  Lieutenant-General  Ashton\,  with  five  Knights,  twenty- 
five  Colonels,  nine  Lieutenant-Colonels,  six  Majors,  forty- 
six  Captains,  seventeen  Lieutenants,  six  Cornets,  three  En- 
signs, five  pieces  of  cannon,  one  thousand  two  hundred 
horse,  one  thousand  stand  of  arms,  and  all  the  baggage ; 
being  the  army  which  had  blockaded  Cockermouth,  and 
which  had  retreated  to  this  town  on  the  approach  of  Ashton. 

Appleby  had  been  a  place  of  great  extent  and  importance; 
At  one  period  it  seemed  to  have  been  put  on  a  level  with 
the  city  of  York,  for  Henry  I.  bestowed  on  it  equal  privi- 
leges :  York  had  its  charter  bestowed  on  it  in  the  morning, 
and  Appleby  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.  Henry  III. 
gave  another  charter,  in  which  all  things  were  like  York  §. 
In  the  reign  of  Edward  J.  it  had  a  Mayor,  and  two  provosts, 

who 
*  Burn,  1,  309-  t  Burn,  1,  310.  %  Whiteloch,  343. 

§  Camden  11,  990.. 


142  APPLEBY. 

who  signed  the  public  acts  with  the  mayor,  but  at  present 
are  degraded  into  two  attendants,  who  follow  that  magis- 
trate with  halberds.  The  borough  sends  two  Members  to 
Parliament,  a  privilege  first  obtained  in  the  time  of  Ed- 
ward I.  * 

The  town  had  formerly  been  of  vast  extent ;  for  Burrals, 
i.  e.  borough-walls,  shew  its  limits  on  that  side,  now  a 
mile  from  the  inhabited  remains.  Bondgate,  Dungate, 
and  Scatter  gate,  mark  its  former  entrances  at  places  at  pre- 
•  sent  very  distant.  That  a  Roman  station  had  been  at  or 
near  this  town,  is  very  certain ;  and  most  probably  at  the 
Burrals,  which  might  preserve  that  name  through  pre-emi- 
nence of  antiquity.  The  Learned  differ  whether  Abbalaba 
or  Galacum  was  the  proper  appellation  :  some  contest,  from 
similarity  of  sound,  that  it  must  have  been  the  first.  Mr. 
Horsley^,  by  the  more  certain  rule  of  observing  the  dis- 
tances in  Antonines  Itinerary,  proves  it  to  have  been  the 
latter.  It  stands  on  the  Roman  road,  and  some  antiquities 
have  been  found  in  its  neighbourhood.  Numbers  of  in- 
scriptions are  preserved  in  a  wall  near  the  public  school, 
placed  there  by  Reginald  Balnbridge  the  schoolmaster,  in 
the  time  it  was  visited  by  Camden.  There  is  no  certainty  of 
any  of  them  having  been  found  at  Appleby,  and  several  were 

copied 
*  Willis's  Notitia  Parliam.  f  454. 


APPLEBY.  143 

V 

copied  on  stone  from  originals  now  lost,  but  found  in  other 
places;  and  many  are  said  to  have  been  altered  according 
to  his  fancy,  with  a  singular  conceit.  He  has  given,  of  his 
own  composition,  three  inscriptions  cut  a  F antique,  which 
stand  with  the  others. 

The  first  is  historical,  and  settles  the  time  in  which  the 
Romans  had  a  station  here ;  then  gives  the  time  in  which  it 
suffered  from  the  ravages  of  the  Scots ;  after  that  comme- 
morates a  scourge  of  the  pestilence,  and  finally  the  removal 
of  the  market  to  Gilshaughline.  The  last  was  occasioned 
by  the  plague,  of  which  a  hundred  and  twenty  died  in  the 
town  and  parish. 

The  next  inscription  is  in  memory  of  the  founders  of 
the  school ;  and  the  third  is  a  tribute  he  pays  to  his  own — 

"  ABALLABA  QVAM  C  C. 
"  FLVIT ITVNA.  STATIO  FVIT 
"  RO.  TEMP.  MAVR.  AREL. 
"  HANC  VASTAVIT.  F.  F. 
"GVIL.  R.SCOT.  1176. 
"  HIC  PESTIS  SiEVIT  1598 
"  OPP.  DESERT  MERCAT 
"  AD  GILSHAVGLINE. 
"  DEVM  TIME." 


144  APPLEBY. 

«  ROBERTO  LANG 

"  TON  ET  MILONI 

«  SPENSER  QVI 

"  APPLEBI^E  F:  F. 

"  HANC  SC 

"  H.  M.  OBM.  P.R.B.P." 

«  R.  BAINEBRIG 
"HOC^D.  HIPOD 
"  IDASCALS  D.D. 
"  IN  P  P.  1606." 

The  church  is  at  the  lower  end  of  the  street,  sufficiently 
signalized  by  containing  the  remains  of  Anne  Clifford  and 
her  excellent  mother.  The  last  lies  beneath  a  fine  tomb, 
on  which  is  her  recumbent  image.  She  is  dressed  in  a  long 
cloak,  which  quite  covers  her  to  the  feet,  leaving  only  her 
face  and  her  buttoned  jacket  visible:  on  her  head  is  a  coro- 
net, and  round  her  neck  a  small  ruff.  She  was  the  mis- 
treated wife  of  the  celebrated  George  Clifford  earl  of  Cum- 
herland,  a  hero  above  the  tender  feelings  of  relationship  or 
conjugal  affection,  devoted  to  deeds  of  arms,  or  feats  of 
chivalry  in  honour  of  his  great  but  romantic  mistress.  He 
paid  the  debt  to  Nature  several  years  before  his  Lady,  and 
with  a  penitence  for  his  harsh  usage  of  her,  which  did  honour 

to 


< 

s 


V 

o 

% 
VL 

s 

U 
0 

u 

i 

5 


0 


0 


1 
v 
% 


....     •  ««■ 


.,:. 


COUNTESS  OF  CUMBERLAND'S  TOMB.  145 

to  both  parties.  She  died  at  Brougham-castle  on  May  24, 
1616.  She  lived  his  wife  twenty-nine  years,  and  survived 
him  ten  years  and  seven  months,  as  the  inscription  imports. 
The  monument  was  erected  by  the  Daughter  in  the  following 
year,  on  which  are  these  lines : 

"  Who  faith,  love,  mercy,  noble  constancy, 

"  To  God,  to  virtue,  to  distress,  to  right, 

**  Observ'd,  express'd,  shew'd,  held  religiously, 

"  Hath  here  this  monument.     Thou  seest  in  sight 
"  The  cover  of  her  earthly  part ;  but,  Passenger, 

"  Know,  Heaven  and  Fame  contain  the  best  of  her." 

The  Earl  of  Cumberland  was  married  to  this  Lady  against 
his  own  consent,  when  very  young,  by  his  guardian  the 
Earl  of  Bedford,  whose  daughter  she  was  :  they  ever  lived 
very  unhappily  together;  and  it  appears  by  her  daughter's 
Diary,  that  she  had  a  very  great  spirit,  and  took  little  pains 
to  conciliate  his  affection. 

A  mural  monument  records  the  death  of  her  illustrious 
daughter,  who  died  in  the  same  castle,  after  an  illness  of 
three  or  four  days,  on  Mareh  22,  1(375,  full  of  years  and 
glory,  aged  85.  Beneath  is  an  altar-tomb,  without  any 
image,  or,  I  think,  inscription.  These  are  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  herself,  many  years  before  her  death.    For 

u  the 


1 4  0  TOMB  OF  ANNE  CLIFFORD. 

the  keeping  these  monuments  in  repair,  and  for  other  uses, 
she  purchased  lands  in  Temple- Sower  by,  and,  by  deed  dated 
February  2,  1650,,  appointed  trustees  for  the  execution  of 
her  intent.  On  the  tomb  is  the  following  inscription,  ex- 
tremely inadequate  to  the  greatness  of  her  character : 

"  Here  lies,  expecting  the  second  coming  of  our  Lord 
"  and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  the  dead  body  of  the  Lady 
**  Anne  Clifford,  daughter  and  sole  heir  to  George  Clifford 
"  third  Earl  of  Cumberland,  by  his  blessed  wife  Margaret 
"  Russel  Countess  of  Cumberland;  which  Lady  Anne  was 
"  born  in  Skipton-castle,  in  Craven,  the  30th  of  January, 
"  being  Fryday,  in  the  year  15QO,  as  the  year  begins  on 
"  New-year's-day;  and  by  a  long  continued  descent  from 
"  her  father,  and  his  noble  ancestors,  she  was  Baronesse 
"  of  Clifford,  Westmoreland,  and  Vesey,  High-sheriffesse  of 
**  the  county  of  Westmoreland,  and  of  the  honour  of  Skip  ton- 
•'  castle  aforesaid.  She  married,  for  her  first  husband,  Richard 
"  Sackville  earl  of  Dorset,  and  for  her  second  husband, 
"  Philip  Herberte  earl  of  Pembroke  and  Montgomery :  leav- 
"  ing  behind  her  only  two  daughters  that  lived,  which  she 
"  had  by  her  first  husband;  the  eldest,  Margaret  countesse 
"  of  Thafiet;  and  the  youngest,  Isabel  countesse  of  North- 
«  amp/ on.  Which  Lady  Anne  Clifford  countesse  dowager  of 
"  Pembroke,  Dorset,  and  Montgomery,  deceased  at  her  castle 
.        .  5  "  at 


ALMS-HOUSE.  147 

"  at  Brougham,  the  22d  day  of  March,  in  the  year  of  our 
**  Lord  16*75,  christianly,  willing,  and  quietly,  having 
V  before  her  death  seen  a  plentiful  issue  by  her  two 
**  daughters,  of  thirteen  grand-children :  And  her  body  lyes 
"  buried  in  this  vault.'* 

Another  more  useful  monument  of  her  piety  remains  in 
the  town,  in  form  of  an  alms-house  for  twelve  poor  widows, 
and  a  superior  called  a  mother,  each  of  whom  has  a  house' 
and  garden.  The  mother  has  (according  to  my  informa- 
tion) ten  guineas  a  year,  and  the  others  eight ;  and  the  mi- 
nister of  Appleby  for  the  time  being,  eight  pounds  in  case  he 
reads  prayers  to  them,  every  day  except  Sunday,  in  a  small 
chapel  belonging  to  the  house.  For  these  purposes  she 
bought  lands  in  Brougham  and  St.  Nicholas,  and  left  them 
vested  in  trustees. 

At  the  time  of  the  dissolution,  here  was  a  house  of  Car- 
melites or  White  Friars,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Lord 
Vesci,  Lord  Perci,  and  Roger  Clifford,  in  1281.  After  the 
suppression  of  the  abbies,  Henry  granted  it  to  Christopher 
Crackenthorpe  of  Newbiggen  in  this  county*.  A  ruin  ad- 
joining to  the  town-wall  may  possibly  be  the  remains  of 
the  friary. 

■    u  2  Heft 

*  Tanner,  588. 


148 


CRAKENTHORPE. 


August  14. 


Craketn- 

THORPE. 


I  left  Appleby,  repassed  the  bridge,  and  went  through  the 
village  of  Clippergate,  not  far  from  its  foot.  About  two 
miles  farther,  I  rode  through  Crakenthorpe,  or  the  Village 
of  Crows,  in  the  northern  dialect  Crakes,  most  likely  from 
there  having  been  here  a  rookery.  The  hall  has  been  the 
residence  of  the  Machebs,  a  family  noted  for  their  gallant 
actions,  and  for  never  rising  into  the  degree  of  knight,  nor 
sinking  into  that  of  yeoman.  The  name  was  frequently 
written,  in  old  times,  Mau-chael  and  Machael — Latine, 
malus  catulus — Anglice,  sad  puppy.  From  the  last,  the  anti- 
quarian of  the  house  suspects  that  Whelp-castle  (hereafter 
to  be  mentioned)  took  its  name  from  this  family,  and  that 
De  Whelp-dale  was  of  kindred  not  remote ;  which  last  is 
fully  confirmed  by  its  bearing  three  young  greyhounds  for 
its  arms,  as  the  Mau-chaels  did,  a  spurious  dog  with  a 
forked  tail — ex  Grteco  et  Tigride  nato.  He  also  infers, 
that,  from  the  Latin  name,  (which  was  doubtlessly  the  ori- 
ginal,) they  were  derived  from  the  Catuli  of  Rome,  which 
gives  a  descent  from  the  Conqueror  of  the  Cimbrians,  and 
all  the  illustrious  race. 


The  country  in  this  morning's  ride  was  far  from  fertile. 

On    the    right    runs   a   long  range  of   lofty  fells,  with  a 

Pikes.        row  of  pyramidal  hills  rising  at  their  base,  called  here  Pikes. 

Similar  hills  in  different  countries  bear  names  not  dissimi- 

3  lar : 


KIRKBY-THORE.  14Q 

lar :  the  French  bestow  on  them  that  of  Pic ;  the  Italians 
and  Spaniards,  that  of  Pico. 

About  four  miles  from  Appleby,  on  the  road  side,  I  saw 
a  large  Roman  camp,  with  works  of  defence  before  each  a  Camp. 
entrance.  Its  length  is  about  three  hundred  yards,  its 
breadth  about  half;  and  not  far  from  it,  a  small  fort.  Near 
the  road  side,  have  been  found,  urns  with  ashes  in  them#, 
in  the  middle  of  a  round  pit  lined  with  clay  about  a  yard 
in  depth,  it  i&Nf  being  customary  for  the  Romajis  to  inter 
near  the  sides  of  the  public  ways.  Not  far  from  it  was  a 
pit  of  a  like  form,  containing  ashes  and  bones,  without  any 
urns ;  so  probably  was  the  burial-place  of  some  common 
people,  as  the  other  was  of  persons  of  better  rank. 

At  a  small  distance  to  the  right  is  the  village  of  ifoW'^y- Kirkby-Thori;. 
Thore.  The  addition  is  attributed  to  the  supposition  of  a 
temple,  dedicated  to  the  Saxon  Thor,  having  stood  on  the 
spot.  This  Deity  was  represented  as  a  regal  figure  with 
crown  and  sceptre,  and  a  Glory  of  twelve  stars  around  his 
head.  He  was  the  Chief  of  the  heavenly  power,  the  Jupiter 
Tanarus  of  our  German  ancestors,  the  Prince  of  the  Air, 
the  Director  of  Thunder,  Lightning  and  Tempests ;  the 
Dispenser  of  Fair  Weather,  and  consequent  Plenty: — to 

whom 

*  Burn,  I,   351. 


150  BURWENS. 


i 


whom  Thursday  was  dedicated  under  the  name  of  Thor's- 
day,  and  more  expressively  of  his  qualities  under  that  of 
Thunres-deag,  and  in  the  Netherlands  in  more  modern 
times  Dimders-dagh. 

A  very  curious  coin,  or  perhaps  amulet,  was  discovered 
in  the  beginning  of  this  century,  which  fully  shews  the  form 
in  which  this  Deity  was  figured.  It  has,  on  one  side,  his 
head  with  the  Glory  around,  and  a  sceptre  in  his  hand  :  on 
the  reverse  are  Runic  characters,  Thur  gut  Laetis,  i.  e.  The 
Face  of  the  God  Thor :  it  was  of  silver,  and  of  the  size  of  a 
silver  groat.  Such  pieces  it  was  customary  for  the  northern 
nations  to  strike,  with  their  Gods  represented  on  them  in 
form  of  a  human  face ;  and  these  they  kept  by  them  as  tu- 
telar deities,  and  preservatives  from  all  ills*. 

.  A  place  of  still  greater  antiquity  was  till  of  late  years 
discoverable  in  its  neighbourhood,  the  Roman  Brovonaccz, 
Burwens.  which  retains  its  sound  in  Burwens,  the  present  name  of 
its  site.  Whelf  s-castle  was  another  appellation,  which  was 
derived  from  the  first  Lord  of  this  manor,  Whelp,  who  lived 
in  the  reign  of  King  Stephen,  or  that  of  Henry  II.  It 
remained  in  his  posterity  some  centuries :  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VI.  John  Wharton,  supposed  to  have  been  a  cadet  of 

Wharton- 

*  See  Camden,  11,  992.     Thoresbys  Hist.  Leeds,  339- 


TEMPLE-SOWERBY.  151 

Wharton-hall  possessed  it ;  and  it  lately  remained  in  his 
descendants,  two  Ladies,  co-heiresses  of  the  place  *. 

It  chiefly  stood  near  the  rill  Troutbeek,  near  the  Eden ; 
as  appears  from  the  foundations  disturbed  by  the  plough. 
A  square  inclosure,  called  High  Burwens,  containing 
about  eight  score  yards  in  diameter,  says  Doctor  Burn  4-, 
was  its  area ;  but  the  extent  of  the  outward  works  reached 
beyond  the  Roman  way  or  high  street  of  Kirkby-Thorey 
most  of  which,  as  well  as  the  manor-house,  was  built 
out  of  the  ancient  ruins.  In  most  parts,  traces  of  it  may 
be  seen  in  vaults,  conduits,  pavements  both  flagged  and 
tiled,  foundations  of  walls,  brick  and  stone ;  and  coins,  urns, 
altars,  and  other  antiquities  are  frequently  found.  An 
altar  is  preserved  in  the  walls  of  the  old  school-house  at 
Appleby,  dedicated  to  Belatucader,  or  Mars  \  : 

"  DEO  BELATVCAD 
"  RO.  LIB.  VOTV 
«  M  FECET. 
"  IOLVS." 


About  a  mile  further  is  the  village  of  Temple-Sowerby,     Temple. 

a  manor  once  the  property  or  the  potent  order  of  Knights 

"Templars.     Their  great  wealth  and  power  rendered  them 

insolent 
*  Burn,  I,  375,  379.  f  1,  379,  380.  %  Horslei/,  298. 


1 52  THREE  BROTHERS  TREE. 

insolent  and  formidable.  Under  pretence  of  crimes  of  the 
most  horrid  nature,  their  persons  were  seized,  their  riches 
confiscated,  and  their  order  totally  suppressed  in  1312. — 
After  an  interval  of  eleven  years,  this  manor  was  bestowed 
on  the  Knights  Hospitallers,  in  whom  it  continued  till  the 
dissolution,  when  Henry  VIII.  granted  it,  with  several  others, 
to  Thomas  Dalsto?i  esq.  originally  of  the  ancient  family  of 
that  name  in  Cumberland.  It  remained  in  the  male  line 
till  of  late  years,  when  it  devolved  to  William  Norton  esq. 
in  right  of  his  wife  Mary,  sister  to  Sir  William  Dalston 
knight,  the  last  male  heir  of  this  branch. 

Not  far  from  thence  I  turned  a  little  out  of  the  road,  to  the 
left,  to  see  the  remains  of  one  of  the  famous  oaks  called  the 
Three  Brothers.  Only  the  ruins  of  one  are  to  be  seen  at 
present — an  almost  barkless  trunk  about  thirteen  yards  *  in 
circumference,  with  only  two  branches  which  give  any  signs 
of  life.  It  is  hollow  from  bottom  to  top,  and  would  make  an 
excellent  observatory  for  the  star-gazing  philosopher.  The 
tract  in  which  it  stands  is  JJliinfel-park,  an  ancient  appur- 
tenance to  the  Lords  of  Brougham-castle.  It  was  in  old 
times  covered  with  vast  and  venerable  oaks;  but  it  now  ap- 
pears a  barren  waste,  here  and  there    shaded   with  birch 

trees. 

If 

*  According  to  Dr.  Burn,  for  I  did  not  measure  it. 


*    •  •  J      J       *  * 


Three,    Brother     Tree 


JPub    Jtt*Us  7  2S&1    by-  ^dw  Mardmo    $8  2*0,21  MxZt 


".'•:'%        '.  /  :  J/J:  i 


FAMOUS  CH ACE.  153 

If  the  Hart-horn  oak  exists,  it  escaped  my  notice.  Mr. 
Brooke,  Somerset  Herald,  told  me  he  had  seen  an  ancient 
tree  in  the  road  leading  from  Penrith  to  Appleby,  not  far 
from  Ladys  Pillar,  said  to  be  Harts-horn  Tree,  which  road 
is  over  a  part  of  Whinj "el-park,  that  has  been  inclosed.  It 
took  its  name  from  a  pair  of  stag's  horns  nailed  on  it,  in 
memory  of  a  famous  chace,  in  the  years  1333  or  1334,  be-  Famous  Chace. 
tween  a  greyhound  named  Hercules,  and  a  stag.  They  are 
said  to  have  run  from  this  park  to  Red  Kirk  in  Scotland, 
and  back  again :  that  the  stag  had  just  strength  enough  to 
leap  over  the  pales,  within  which  it  died.  Hercules,  in  at- 
tempting to  follow,  fell  down,  and  died  on  the  outside. — 
The  horns  of  the  stag  were  nailed  on  one  of  the  oaks ;  and, 
in  process  of  time,  being  lost  in  the  growth  of  the  tree, 
another  pair  were  nailed  on,  and,  to  record  this  wonderful 
chace,  the  following  lines  were  inscribed : 

**  Hercules  killed  Hart  a-greese, 

"  And  Hart  a-greese  killed  Hercules.*" 

But  Dr.  Burn  justly  observed,  that  it  is  much  more  pro- 
bable that  the  chace  was  to  Nine  Kirk,  or  the  Church  of 
St.  Ninian,  a  place  on  the  Ei?not,  within  the  verge  of  the 
forest,  than  to  Red  Kirk  in  Scotland,  a.  distance  so  remote 
as  to  take  away  all  credit  from  the  relation. 

x  I  re- 

*  See  Camden,  11,  994.   Burn,  1,  3.9,8- 


1 54  OCTAGONAL  PILLAR. 

I  returned  into  the  great  road,  and,  after  a  ride  of  two 
miles,  saw,  close  to  the  way,  a  handsome  octagonal  pillar,, 
.  with  dials  on  two  of  the  sides ;  on  another,  six  annulets, 
the  arms  of  Vipount,  who  brought  the  Brougham  estate 
into  the  Clifford  family,  and  those  of  the  noble  Lady  in 
memory  of  whom  the  pillar  was  erected,  viz.  Clifford  im- 
paling Russel,  surmounted  by  an  Earl's  coronet;  and  on 
another  the  following  inscription,  in  memory  of  her  last 
parting  with  her  mother  the  Countess  Dowager  of  Cumber- 
land, who  lies  interred  in  the  church  of  Appleby ; 

"  This  Pillar  was  erected,  anno  l650, 

"  By  the  Right  Hon.  Anne  Countesse  Dowager  of 

"  Pembroke,  and  sole  Heir  of  the  Right 

*'  Honourable  George  Earl  of  Cumberland,  &c. 

"  For  a  memorial  of  her  last  parting  in  this  place 

"  With  her  good  and  pious  Mother  the  Right  Honourable 

"  Margaret  Countesse  Dowager  of  Cumberland, 

"  The  second  of  April  161O.    In  memory  whereof, 

"  She  also  left  an  annuity  of  four  pounds, 

"  To  be  distributed  to  the  Poor  within  this 

"  Parish  of  Brougham,  every  second  day  of  April, 

"  For  ever,  upon  this  stone  table. 

"  Laus  Deo  ! ,f 

The  column  and  stone-table  are  in  good  repair,  and  the 

annual 


,,//•, /A 


A*. Stim~r\m'  JV. 


A  nv  :x  as     C  mB"  pori)'^     Col  xt;m  jv 


1 


. ■  .'  ■'■       r../.  '80t.    &y  -Et/zt-   7  fst/;/ in. ■/..<*#    Pail  M. 


i  •  •  '     '      •  ,-  «    . 

**  •      *  *  •     ■»  • 

■'•  -'"■•:  '■;■  '•:;::•      : 


BROUGHAM-CASTLE.  1 55 

annual  oblation  is  still  made,  according  to  the  will  of  the 
charitable  donor. 


CASTLE, 


About  a  mile  further  stands  Brougham-castle,  seated  on  Brougham- 
the  Eitnot,  a  vast  and  lofty  pile,  square,  and  with  square 
towers,  slightly  salient  from  some  of  the  corners.  It  had 
been  owned  by  the  Cliffords,  and  passed  through  their  de- 
scendants to  the  present  Earl  of  Thanet.  On  its  site,  or 
perhaps  near  to  it,  had  been  the  Roman  station  Brovocum, 
or  Broconiacum.  The  ancient  fortress  might  have  been  on 
an  artificial  rising  near  the  river,  opposite  to  the  Countess's 
pillar:  and  I  conjecture,  that  the  more  modern  castle  was 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  old  mansion  owned  by  the  Vete* 
ripo?its,  predecessors  to  the  Cliffords ;  for,  after  the  death 
of  John  de  Veteripont,  complaint  was  made  that  the  Prior 
of  Carlisle,  guardian  to  his  son,  had  suffered  the  walls  and 
house  of  Brougham  to  go  to  decay  for  want  of  repairing 
the  gutters  and  the  roof,  and  that  certain  bercarys,  or 
sheep-folds,  had  fallen  down,  for  the  length  of  five 
score  feet,  for  want  of  support.  Whether  he  began  to 
build  this  castle,  is  uncertain :  probably  he  had  not  leisure 
to  undertake  so  great  a  work ;  for,  as  soon  as  he  came  of 
age,  he  engaged  with  the  rebellious  Barons  against  his  So- 
vereign Henry  HI.  and  was  slain,  either  at  the  battle  of 
Lewes,  or  that  of  .Evesham.     It  should  seem  to  have  been 

x  2  founded 


1 5  (3  BROUGHAM-CASTLE. 

founded  by  his  son-in-law  and  successor  Roger  de  Clifford. 
Over  an  inner  door  was  the  following  inscription  : 

"  THIS  MADE  ROGER." 

Which  by  some  is  construed  ambiguously,  and  to  signify 
that  his  fortune  was  made  by  so  great  an  acquisition.    Yet 
round  the  castle  there  was  no  more  than  eight  score  acres 
of  arable  land,  worth  four-pence  each;  forty  of  meadow, 
worth  twelve-pence ;   three   cotterels,   or  cottages,  worth 
twelve-pence  each;  and  a  water-mill,  worth  twenty  shillings 
yearly.     The  finishing  of  this  noble  pile  was  reserved  for 
Roger  de  Clifford,  great-grandson  of  the  first  Roger.     He 
enjoyed  his  vast  fortunes  in  peace,  was  a  lover  of  archi- 
tecture, built  the  eastern  part  of  the  castle,  and  caused  his 
own  arms,  and  those  of  his  wife  Maude,  daughter  of  Beau- 
champ  earl  of  Warwick,  to  be  cut  in  stone :   a  pool  to  this 
day  bears  the  name  of  the  Lady.     He  died  in  13Q1.      An 
upper  room  in  one  of  the  towers,  a  curious  octagon,  is  a 
proof  of  his  taste ;  as  is  an  arched   apartment  in  another, 
supported  by  an  elegant  octagonal  pillar,  with  eight  ribs 
diverging  from  its  capital  along  the  roof.     Francis  earl  of 
Cumberland  here  entertained  James  I.  during  three  days, 
in  1 6 1 7,  on  his  return  from  his  last  progress  into  Scotland. 
From  that  time  it  fell  into  decay,  till  it  was  restored  by  its 

great 


BROUGHAM-MANOR. 

great  owner  Anne  Clifford.  Here  she  yielded  her  last 
breath,  and  the  ruin  of  this  and  several  of  her  other  castles 
quickly  followed. 


157 


The  manor  was  independent  of  the  castle,  and  had  its 
own  lords.  It  was  held  by  Odard  de  Burgham  in  the  22d 
of  Henry  II. ;  a  Gilbert  de  Burgham  held  it  about  the  be- 
ginning of  the  reign  of  Henry  III. ;  from  which  time  to 
I  believe  the  present  it  continued,  with  slight  interruption, 
either  whole  or  divided,  in  the  same  name,  or,  as  it  was 
latterly  written,  that  of  Brougham ;  which  family  is  now  in 
entire  possession  of  the  manor. 


Manor. 


Soon  after  I  left  the  castle,  I  crossed  the  river  Lowther 
near  Brougham-hall,  the  seat  of  the  family  above  mentioned. 
A  little  to  the  south  is  Clifton,  out  of  which  twenty-two 
quarters  of  oats  were,  in  old  times,  annually  paid  to  the 
Castle  of  Brougham.  Similar  revenues  were  drawn  from 
other  places,  which  made  up  for  the  want  of  territory  round 
this  strong  hold. 


Clifton. 


In  the  short  space  between  the  Lowther  and  the  Eimot 
lie  the  antiquities  called  Arthur's  Round  Table  and  May- 
brough-castle.     In  the  last  edition  of  my  first  Tour  in  Scot- 
land, 
6 


1 5  8  CUMBERLAND— PENRITH. 

land',  I  have  said  as  much  as  I  could  collect  respecting  those 
curious  remains. 

Eimont-  I   crossed  Eimont-bridge.      In   the   reign  of  Henry  VI. 

there  was  a  general  contribution  towards  the  building,  or, 
,  •  perhaps,  rebuilding  of  this  bridge.     The  piety  of  the  coun- 

try was  made  an  instrument  of  so  good  a  work  ;  an  indul- 
gence of  forty  days  was  bestowed  upon  every  well-disposed 
person  who  flung  in  his  mite  to  forward  the  design.  I  then 
entered  the  County  of 

CUMBERLAND. 

• 

On  the  right,  finely  seated  on  an  eminence  above  the 
river,  is  Carle  ton-haV,  the  property  of  the  Carletons,  who 
flourished  here  almost  from  the  time  of  the  Conqueror  till 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century,'  when  Robert  Carle- 
ton,  esq.  sold  the  estate.  The  family  is  not  extinct ;  Sir 
Guy  Carleton,  the  present  Lord  Dorchester,  being  of  it. 

Penr*th.  I  soon  reached  Penrith,  and  can  add  very  little  to  the 

account  of  this  place  in  my  Scotch  Tour.      I  received,  in 
this  visit,  every  civility  and  information  from  Mr.  Harrison 
surgeon,  who  introduced  me  to  Miss  Calw'm,  to  whose  in- 
genuity 


PENRITH.— NEW  OUZEL.  L50 

genuity  I  have  before  paid  the  tribute  due.     She  was  so 
obliging  as  to  present  me  with  a  beautiful  drawing  of  a  sin- 
gular or  perhaps  new  species  of  Water  Ouzel,  shot  ,some-   new  Ouzel, 
where  in  this  neighbourhood.      It  was  rather  superior  in  size 
to  the  common  :  the  head,  wings,  upper  part  of  the  body, 
and  tail,  were  dusky  ;  the  chin  and  throat  white— at  the 
bottom  of  the  last  was  a  bar  of  dusky ;    the  breast,  belly 
and  thighs  white,  marked  with  short  black  strokes  pointing 
downwards,  most  numerous  towards  the  lower  belly  and     . 
thighs ;  the  vent  of  a  rusty  yellow,  crossed  with  bars  of 
black  ;  legs  rusty  yellow. 

To  what  I  may  have  omitted  in  my  account  of  this  town, 
let  me  add,  that  there  had  been  here  a  house  of  Grey  Friars, 
founded  in  the  time  of  Edward  II.  or  before,  and  after  the 
dissolution  granted  to  Thomas  Tyrwhit,  esq. #  Agnes  Den- 
ton\,  a  good  widow,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III.  left  to- 
wards the  support  of  these  poor  monks,  her  mite  of  ten 
shillings-. 

William  HI.  bestowed  the  honour  of  Penrith  with  all  its 

dependencies,  'with  the  appurtenances  within  the  forest  of 

Englewood,  on  his  great  favourite  William  Bentinck  duke  of 

Portland.     His  Majesty  at  the  same  time  made  a  grant  of 

the 
*  Tanner,  77-  f  Burn,  11,  410. 


1 60  PENRITH. 

the  lordships  of  Denbigh,  Bro?nfield,  and  Yala,  in  the  princi- 
pality of  Wales.  The  Welsh  grew  clamorous,  and  simply 
resisted  the  grant,  till  the  King  was  obliged  to  revoke  it. — 
Had  it  passed,  it  is  not  impossible,  but,  from  the  chances 
and  changes  in  human  affairs,  these  royal  favours  had  been 
brought  to  market,  and  every  squire  in  their  neighbour- 
hood had  a  chance  of  accommodating  himself  with  his  con  * 
veniency. 

I  commenced,  at  this  town,  an  acquaintance  with  Mr. 
William  Hutchinson,  the  antiquary  of  Bernard-castle-,  an 
attorney  of  very  fair  character,  and  author  of  the  View  of 
Northumberland,  the  History  of  the  County  of  Durham,  and 
of  the  Excursion  to  the  Lakes-,  works  very  justly  esteemed. 

I  then  left  Penrith,  and  rode  eastward  ;  had,  from  an  emi- 
nence, a  most  charming  view  of  a  rich  bottom,  watered  by  the 
river,  and  ornamented  with  Brougham-castle  ;  crossed  part 
Eden-hall,  of  E?iglewood-forest,  and  reached  Eden-hall,  a  very  plain 
large  house  seated  on  the  river  Eden,  amidst  beautiful 
grounds  well  planted.  The  Stapletons  held  this  estate  dur- 
ing five  generations.  At  length,  Joan,  daughter  and  one  of 
the  coheirs  of  Sir  William  Stapleton,  knight,  transferred  it  to 
Thomas  de  Musgrave,  who  died  in  the  reign  of  Edward  IV. 
It  remains  in  the  possession  of  his  descendant,  Sir  Philip 

Musgrave, 


EDEN-HALL.  161 

Musgrave,  who  makes  the  place  one  of  his  residences.  I 
have  before  had  occasion  to  speak  of  that  respectable  fa- 
mily. 

The  hall  is  a  handsome  well-proportioned  room,  forty- 
two  feet  by  twenty-four,  and  richly  stucco'd.  In  the 
apartments  I  observed  a  Head  of  Sir  Christopher  Musgrave ; 
the  dress,  a  great  wig,  cravat,  and  armour.  He  was  early 
initiated  in  war  by  his  heroic  father  Sir  Philip,  who  bore  so 
large  a  share  in  the  transactions  of  the  North  during  the  Civil 
Wars  of  the  last  century :  engaged  deeply  in  Sir  George 
Booth's  effort  to  restore  the  Royal  Family  ;  and  after  the 
Restoration,  received,  during  the  three  Stuart  reigns,  rewards 
suitable  to  his  loyalty.  In  that  of  Charles  II.  he  was  made 
Lieut.  General  of  the  Ordnance  ;  in  that  of  Queen  Anne, 
one  of  the  Tellers  of  the  Exchequer.  He  died,  in  an  ad- 
vanced age,  in  1704. 

A  Head  of  George  Legge  lord  Dartmouth,  a  gallant  sea- 
officer,  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  many  of  the  des- 
perate actions  in  the  Dutch  war.  He  was  entrusted  with 
the  fleet  which  was  to  oppose  the  invasion  of  the  Prince  of 
Orange,  but  the  winds  frustrated  his  zeal  to  serve  his  fated 
Sovereign.  He  disapproved  of  his  measures,  yet,  through 
excess  of  friendship,  adhered  to  him  at  all  hazards.     On 

y  the 


162  EDEN-HALL. 

the  Revolution,  he  was  deprived  of  all  his  great  offices  :  he 
continued  his  attachment  to  his  late  master,  and  offered  to 
take  the  command  of  the  French  fleet,  which  was  to  assist 
in  the  new  Revolution  set  on  foot  by  Churchill  and  other 
unprincipled  promoters  of  the  merited  deposal  of  the  late 
King.  On  the  discovery  of  the  conspiracy,  Dartmouth  was 
committed  to  the  Tower,  where,  after  three  months  im- 
prisonment, he  died,  at  the  age  of  forty-four,  on  October  25, 
I69I.  William,  with  true  heroism,  directed  that  the  same 
respect  should  be  paid  to  the  remains  of  his  generous  enemy, 
as  if  he  died  in  possession  of  every  honour  he  enjoyed  in 
the  reign  of  the  exiled  Prince. 

A  Head  of  Sir  Richard  Hutton,  on  wood.  This  excellent 
man  was  father-in-law  to  Sir  Philip  Musgrave,  and  one  of 
the  Judges  of  the  Common  Pleas  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I. 
He  and  Sir  George  Croke  were  the  only  Judges  who  decided 
against  the  Crown  in  the  great  cause  of  ship-money.  He 
was  a  man  of  inflexible  integrity ;  so  that  Charles,  not- 
withstanding his  high  notions  of  prerogative,  used  to  call 
him  "  his  honest  Judge*."  He  was  designed  for  holy  or- 
ders ;  but,  by  the  persuasion  of  George  earl  of  Cumberland, 
applied  himself  to  the  law.     In  respect  to  the  thoughts  he 

once 

*  Fuller'?,  British  Worthies,  2 19,  who  says  he  was  born  at  Penrith. 
Burn,  1,  597,  calls  him  of  Gouldsborough  in  Yorkshire. 


EDEN-HALL.  1 63 

once  entertained  of  entering  into  the   Church,   he   never 
would  take  a  fee  of  a  clergyman.     He  died  in  1638. 

James  earl  of  Derby,  a  Head ;  another  of  his  gallant 
Countess.  These  noble  personages  had  so  high  an  opinion 
of  Sir  Philip  Musgrave%  as  to  intrust  to  him  the  defence  of 
the  Isle  of  Man,  which  he  did  to  the  last  extremity,  under 
the  Countess  :  at  length  surrendered  on  honourable  terms, 
and  obtained  leave  to  retire  where  he  pleased  into  any  part 
of  England. 

A  Head  of  Anne  Clifford  at  the  age  of  eighty,  and  ano- 
ther when  she  was  young.  I  was  informed  that  it  was 
customary  with  her  to  present  a  great  house-lock  and  her 
picture  to  all  her  friends  in  the  neighbourhood. 


A  pint  glass,  enamelled  with  colours,  called  the  Luck  Luck  of  Eden- 

IT    AT    | 

(Palladium)  of  Eden-hall,  is  carefully  preserved  here.  The 
Family  Legend  says,  that  it  was  left  on  the  margin  of  a  foun- 
tain by  a  Fairy,  and  was  to  be  the  safeguard  of  the  house. 
On  the  top  are  the  letters  I.  H.  S.  which  shew  the  sacred 
use  from  which  it  had  been  perverted.  In  later  times  it  was 
consecrated  to  Bacchus. 

In  the  church  are  the  figures  of  a  man  and  woman  in  eden -church. 

y  2  brass, 


1 64  EDEN-CHURCH. 

brass,  as  I  mentioned  before — Sir  William  Stapleton, 
knight,  who  died  in  1458,  and  Margaret  det  Vipont,  his 
wife,  whose  daughter  and  coheir  Joan  married  Thomas 
Musgrave  of  Musgrave,  esq.  and  brought  this  place  into 
the  present  family.  Here  are,  besides,  various  mural  monu- 
ments ;  many  of  them  cenotaphs  of  several  of  the  family, 
who  are  interred  in  the  church  of  the  Trinity  in  the  Mi- 
nor ies,  London,  the  burial-place  of  the  Dartmouth  Family, 
to  which  the  Musgraves  are  allied* . 

In  a  window  is  painted  Ceolulfk'mg  of  the  Mercians,  and 
his  admired  Saint  Cuthbert,  to  whose  monastery  in  the  isle 
of  Lindesfarn,  the  pious  Prince,  after  nine  years  spent  in 
vanity,  retired :  there  he  passed  the  remainder  of  his  days, 
and  was  interred  close  to  the  body  of  the  Saint \.  In  the 
same  window  is  the  figure  of  a  Bishop,  with  the  head  of  an 
ancient  King  in  his  hand. 

t  ■ 

Not  far  from  hence  I  crossed  the  Eden,  here  a  beautiful 

stream,  and  the  banks  finely  cultivated.     After  riding  about 
three  miles  northward,  I  saw,  in  the  parish  of  Addingha?n, 
long  Meg.    the  noted  Druidical  Temple  called  Long  Meg  and  her  daugh- 
ters.    The  circle  is  formed  of  sixty-seven  rude  stones  placed 
upright,  and  of  unequal  heights  :  all  are  placed  single  ex- 
cept 
*  Collins,  1,  82.  t  Crcssy's  Church  Hist.  592. 


LONG  MEG.  165 

cept  near  the  entrance,  where  there  are  two  stones  placed 
without,  opposite  to  the  two  which  form  the  entrance  and 
part  of  the  circle.  Long  Meg,  as  the  tallest  stone  is  called, 
stands  sixty-one  feet  west  from  the  portal,  and  just  oppo- 
site to  it :  it  is  eighteen  feet  high,  #nd  fourteen  in  its  great-  - 
est  girth ;  is  composed  of  red  grit  stone,  as  the  others  are  ' 
of  granite,  lime,  and  free-stone.  The  area  of  the  circle 
was  covered  with  corn,  so  I  must  borrow  its  diameter  from 
Mr.  Hutchinson,  who  informs  us  it  is  of  three  hundred  feet  *. 

I  refer  the  curious  reader  to  the  learned  Borlase^-  for 
an  account  of  the  uses  of  these  circles.  Whether  this  was 
designed  for  religious  purposes,  for  national  assemblies,  for 
election  of  Princes,  or  for  the  celebration  of  games,  as  cer- 
tain circles  in  Caernarvonshire  are  reasonably  supposed  to 
be,  I  cannot  possibly  determine.  Nothing  is  left  on  which 
to  found  a  conjecture.  It  might  have  stood  in  a  sacred 
grove  of  oaks,  the  shade  of  which  added  solemnity  to  the 
rites,  were  they  religious :  were  they  political,  the  people 
might  have  stood  without  the  circle  of  stones,  prohibiting 
a  nearer  approach  to  the  vulgar ;  if  the  former,  the  Arch- 
Druid  might  have  stood  near  the  lofty  stone  of  distinction, 
his  entrance  through  the  portal  might  be  preceded  by  an 

awful 

*  Excursion  to  the  Lakes,  108. 
f  Antiquities  of  Comical,  183.     Tour  in  Wales,  11,309- 


1 60  DEFEAT  OF  LEONARD  DACRE. 

awful  procession,  and  sacrifices  and  all  the  fourberie  of 
priestcraft  be  performed  in  the  centre  of  the  area  within 
sight  of  the  trembling  crowd. 

Deadman's        After  descending  a  hill,  I  passed  by  a  wooded  glen  called 

Stack. 

Deadmaiis  Stack,  remarkable  for  being  the  spot  on  which 
DefeatofLeo-  Leonard  Dacre  was  defeated  in   156Q,  by  Lord  Hunsdon, 

narj)  Dacre.  j 

who  put  an  end  to  his  rebellion.  This  gentleman  was  of 
the  great  hoilse  of  Dacre,  and  second  son  of  William  lord 
Dacre,  who  left  four  sons — Thomas,  Leonard,  Edward  and 
Francis.  Thomas  left  one  son  and  three  daughters.  George, 
the  son,  was  killed  in  his  childhood  in  156Q,  by  "a  fall  from 
a  wooden  horse ;  and  the  three  sisters  became  co-heiresses, 
two  of  whom  were  matched  by  Thomas  duke  of  Norfolk, 
(who  married  their  mother,)  to  two  of  his  own  sons  by  former 
wives — Anne,  the  eldest,  to  Philip  earl  of  Arundel -,  and  Eli- 
zabeth, the  youngest,  to  his  second  brother  Lord  William. 
It  is  probable  that  he  intended  to  bestow  the  second  daughter 
on  his  second  son;  but  she  was  taken  away  by  death.  Thus 
this  vast  northern  property  was  conveyed  into  the  house  of 
Howard.  Leonard  contested,  by  law,  the  right  of  his  niece 
to  the  estate,  and  lost  his  cause.  For  a  time  he  concealed 
his  discontent;  insidiously  offered  his  service  to  Elizabeth 
to  quell  some  insurrections  then  in  the  north,  and  was  in- 
trusted with  the  business.  He  entered  into  a  conspiracy 
4  with 


KIRK-OSWALD.  167 

with  Northumberland  and  other  malecontents;  raised  forces 
in  the  Queen's  name,  consisting  chiefly  of  the  banditti  of 
the  Borders ;  and  seized  on  Gray  stock,  Naworth-castle,  and 
other  places  belonging  to  the  Dacres,  under  pretence  of 
securing  his  own  property  and  resisting  the  rebels.  His 
designs  were  discovered,  and  Lord  Hunsdon  marched 
against  him  from  Berwick.  They  met  at  this  place,  and 
the  field  was  warmly  contested.  Leonard  performed  all 
that  could  be  expected  from  the  most  gallant  commander. 
At  length,  after  great  loss  of  men,  he  was  obliged  to  retire 
into  Scotland',  from  thence  fled  to  Louvain*,  where  he 
died  in  great  poverty,  under  a  slender  pension  from  the 
King  of  Spain. 

The  vale  now  expands,  and  has  a  rich  appearance.  I 
reached  Kirk-Oswald,  a  small  town  on  the  east  side  of  the  Kirk-Oswald. 
Eden.  A  considerable  estate  adjacent  belongs  to  Sir 
Philip  Musgrave,  having  been  purchased  by  his  father  Sir 
Christopher  from  the  co-heiresses ;  from  Le?inard  lord  Dacre, 
created  Earl  of  Sussex  by  Charles,  on  the  merit  of  having 
married  a  daughter  of  his  by  the  Duchess  of  Cleaveland. 
Lord  Dacre  acquired  it  from  a  Lennard,  Lennard  from  a 
Fynes,  he  from  the  Dacres-,  again  they  from  a  Mutton,. 
Multon  from  Hugh  de  Morville,  and,  finally,  De  Morville 

from 
*  Camden's  Life  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  in  Kennet,  11.  423. 


1 68  KIRK-OSWALD. 

from  his  wife  Helwise,  daughter  of  a  Stotevil.  Hugh  de 
Morville  was  one  of  the  murderers  of  Thomas  Becket,  the 
turbulent  priest  of  the  reign  of  Henry  II.  who  a  thousand 
times  had  merited  a  legal  death :  but  the  manner  was  as 
horrible,  as  the  scene  was  impious.  No  peculiar  judgments 
followed  the  assassins,  as  superstition  feigned;  no  tails 
issued  from  behind,  to  mark  them  as  so  many  Cains,  as  the 
monks  alleged;  no  sudden  deaths  overtook  them.  William 
de  Tracy  lived  almost  to  the  reign  of  King  John,  and  Hugh 
de  Morville  till  about  the  sixth  year  of  that  monarch*.  In 
the  second  he  obtained  licence  to  inclose  his  woods  at 
Kirk-Oswald,  to  fortify  his  manor-house,  and  to  have  there 
an  annual  fair  and  weekly  market^.  Nor  did  his  remorse 
seem  to  have  been  very  deep,  if  it  is  true  that  he  preserved 
the  sword  with  which  he  did  the  murder  \.  A  Thomas  de 
Multon  enlarged  and  strengthened  the  castle ;  John  de 
Castro,  who  married  his  widow,  gave  it  more  security,  by 
new  works  ;  Thomas  Dacre  added  a  large  ditch,  and  beau- 
tified it  at  great  expence.  A  Mr.  Sa?idford,  quoted  by  Dr. 
Burn,  speaks  of  it  as  a  most  capital  grand  castle,  and  that 
it  was  the  fairest  fabric  that  eyes  ever  looked  on ;  that  the 
hall  was  an  hundred  yards  long,  and  on  the  roof  was  por- 
trayed 

*  Littleton,  v.  354.       \  DugdaWs  Baron.  1.  610,  611.     Burn,  11,  424. 
%  Philemon  Holland,  in  his  edition  of  Camden,  first  mentions  it.     See 

page  777. 


BRITISH  NAMES.  169 

trayed  King  Brute  and  all  his  successors  Kings  of  Eng- 
land. Very  little  of  this  magnificent  castle  remains ;  some 
scanty  ruins  mark  its  place.  Mr.  Sandford  speaks  of  it  as 
standing  in  the  time  of  the  Dacre  earl  of  Sussex,  who  re- 
ceived his  title  in  1 074. 

Not  long  before  the  dissolution,  the  church  was  turned 
into  a  College  of  twelve  Secular  Priests.  All  the  glebe- 
lands  and  tithes  are  the  property  of  the  old  family  of  the 
Feather  stonhaughs.  The  college  was  converted  into  a  College. 
mansion-house  of  that  family,  and  was  called  by  Mr.  Sand- 
ford  a  noble  one. 

I  quitted  the  banks  of  the  Eden,  and,  keeping  still  north- 
ward, crossed  some  black  heaths,  which  are  succeeded  by  a 
country  rich  in  barley  and  oats,  a  narrow  vale  bounded  by 
coarse  hills.  Those  to  the  east  are  a  continuation  of  the 
great  fells.  At  their  bases,  the  land  runs  parallel,  in  great 
waves.  The  fells  are  distinguished  by  the  names  of  their 
respective  parishes,  such  as  Croglin,  Cumrew,  and  Castle- 
Carrock.  These,  and  numbers  of  others  in  this  county,  were  Remains  op 
genuine  British.  The  first  is  slightly  corrupted  from  Crog-  BritishNames- 
Lly/i,  or  the  Hanging  Rock;  the  next,  Cumrew,  from 
Cum  a  small  hollow  or  recess  in  a  mountain,  and  Rhiw  a 

z  brow; 


170  BRITISH  NAMES. 

brow;  and  Castle-Carrock  is  plainly  Caste ll-carr eg,  or  the 
Castle  on  the  Rock.  I  will  add  a  few  more  instances,  such 
as  Cam-rew,  i.  e.  cam  rhiw,  or  the  bending  brows;  Cryglin, 
i.  e.  cryg  llyn,  or  the  pool  of  the  tumulus-,  Garth,  or  the 
side  of  the  dingle-,  Bl en-cairn,  from  blaen  a  point  or  end, 
and  cairn  a  heap  of  stones ;  Glen-carn-beck,  i.  e.  glen  cairn 
bach,  or  the  little  stoney  valley;  Galligil,  i.  e.  gallt  and 
cyll,  or  the  hill  of  the  hazel-trees  ;  Rig  is  found  in  several 
of  the  composed  names,  and  signifies  a  barrow  or  tumulus; 
and,  finally,  Derwent-water  is  derived  from  derwen  an  oak, 
from  the  abundance  of  those  trees  which  grew  about  that 
beautiful  lake.  This  county  remained  under  the  dominion 
of  the  Britons  very  long  after  the  subjection  of  the  rest  of 
the  kingdom  by  the  Saxons;  and,  like  Wales,  retained  its 
own  princes  and  language,  I  believe,  till  about  the  year 
945,  when  Edmund  the  elder  put  an  end  to  the  Cambrian 
kingdom,  and  bestowed  it  on  Malcolm  king  of  Scotland*. 

I  passed  near  Talkin  Tarn,  a  small  lake.  Talhin  is  a 
corrupt  Welsh  word  from  Talcen,  a  front :  Tarn  is  a  piece 
of  water,  a  very  old  northern  word,  derived,  according  to 
Dr.  Johnson,  from  the  Icelandic  Teorne. 

From  the  road  I  digressed  a  very  small  distance  to  Gelt- 

bridge^ 

*  Saxon  Chron.  115. 


GELT-BRIDGE.— BR  AMPTON.  1 7 1 

bridge,  a  single  arch  over  the  torrent  Gelt,  which  tumbled 
down,  in  a  very  picturesque  manner,  a  deep  wooded  fell. 
About  half  a  mile  above,  on  the  front  of  an  ancient  quarry, 
is  an  inscription,  supposed  to  have  been  cut  in  the  reign  of 
Severus  ;  importing,  that  the  Romans  got  some  o£  the  stone 
with  which  they  made  the  neighbouring  part  of  the  famous 
wall  from  hence,  and  the  Vexillatio  was  sent  to  assist  in 
the  work. 

I  heard  that  there  were  other  inscriptions  on  the  neigh-  * 

bouring  quarries,  but  I  did  not    think    them   interesting 
enough  to  be  visited. 

After  riding  a  mile  and  a  half  further,  I  reached  Bramp-  Brampton. 
ton.  The  town  is  small,  and  contains  nothing  remarkable. 
The  alms-house,  founded  by  Edward  Howard  second  earl 
of  Carlisle,  for  six  poor  men  and  six  poor  women,  has  been 
suffered  to  fail  by  one  of  his  successors!  Each  of  the  ob- 
jects of  the  charity  had,  while  it  existed,  a  pension  of  six 
pounds,  a  gown  and  fuel,  and  an  apartment.  Twelve 
pounds  a  year  was  also  allotted  to  a  clergyman  to  read 
prayers  in  the  chapel,  which  alone  is  kept  up,  the  church 
of  Brampton  being  a  mile  out  of  town,  and  too  ruinous  and 
too  remote  for  service. 

2  2  The 


1 72  GILLESLAND. 

Castle-hill.  The  Moat,  or  the  Castle-hill,  is  a  vast  circular  mount 
near  the  town  :  not  far  from  the  top  is  a  trench  and  ram- 
part; and  on  the  last,  in  one  part,  is  a  ridge  of  raised  earth, 
about  fourteen  feet  long  and  four  broad.  As  it  lies  so 
near  to  the  wall,  it  was  possibly  exploratory,  and  the  work 
of  the  Romans. 

Gillesland.         This  town  was  the  capital  of  the  great  barony  of  Gilles> 
land,  a  tract  before  the  Conquest  possessed  by  one  Bueth, 
and  which  took  its  name  from  Giiles  Bueth,  i.  e.  the  son  of 
Bueth.     Randle  de  Meschines  earl  of  Chester,  after  his  sub- 
jection of  this  county  >  bestowed  it  on  Hubert  Vaulx,  or  d£ 
Vallibus,  a  Norman  adventurer  of  those  days.     By  the  mar- 
riage of  Maud,  daughter  of  another  Hubert,  one  of  his  de- 
scendants, cotemporary  with  Henry  III.  it  fell  to- her  spouse 
Thomas  de  Multon.    Margaret,  daughter  to  another  Thomas 
de  Multon,  who  died  in  1313,  married,  and  conveyed  the  ba- 
rony to  Ranulph  de  Dacre,  of  Dacre-castle,  in  this  county. 
On  the  death  of  the  last  male  heir,  George  lord  Dacre,  this 
part  of  the  estate  fell  to  Lord  William  Howard,  by  marriage 
with  Elizabeth,  youngest  sister  of  that  Nobleman,  who  was 
killed  in  his  childhood  by  a  fall,  as  before  related. 

Naworth  or  N award-castle^  the  usual  residence  of  the 

barons 


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NAWORTH-CASTLE.  1 73 


CASTLE, 


barons  of  Gilksland,  stands  about  two  miles  east  of  Br  amp-  Naworth- 
ton.  It  is  a  large  pile,  square,  and  built  about  a  court, 
with  a  square  tower  at  each  corner.  In  the  south  side  is 
a  gateway  with  the  arms  of  the  Dacres ;  over  the  door 
those  of  the  Howards.  On  the  north,  it  impends  over  the 
river  Irthing,  at  a  great  height ;  the  banks'  shagged  with 
wood.  The  whole  house  is  a  true  specimen  of  ancient 
inconvenience,  of  magnificence  and  littleness  :  the  rooms 
numerous,  accessible  by  sixteen  stair-cases,  with  most  fre- 
quent sudden  ascents  and  descents  into  the  bargain  ;  be- 
sides a  long  narrow  gallery.  The  great  hall  is  twenty-five 
paces  long,  by  nine  and  a  half  broad,  of  a  good  height ;  has 
a  gallery  at  one  end,  adorned  with  four  vast  crests,  carved 
in  wood,  viz.  a  griffin  and  dolphin  with  the  scallops,  an 
unicorn,  and  an  ox  with  a  coronet  round  his  neck.  In 
front  is  a  figure,  in  wood,  of  an  armed  man ;  two  others, 
perhaps  vassals,  in  short  jackets  and  caps,  a  pouch  pen- 
dant behind,  and  the  mutilated  remains  o£  Priapus  to  each* 
one  has  wooden  shoes.  These  seem  the  ludibrium  aides' 
in  those  gross  days. 

The  top  and  upper  end  of  the  room  is  painted  on  pan- 
nels,  in  squares,  to  the  number  of  one  hundred  and  seven, 
representing  the  Saxon  kings  and  heroes  ;  these  are  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  Kirk-Oswald  Castle.     The  chim- 

2  neyr 


1 74  NA  WORTH-CASTLE. 

ney  here  is  five  yards  and  a  half  broad.  Within  this  is 
another  apartment,  hung  with  old  tapestry  :  aheadofAtme 
of  Cleeves ;  on  one  side  of  her,  a  small  picture  of  a  Lady 
full  length,  8cc.  and  many  others. 

Lord  William  Howard's  bed-room — arms  and  motto 
over  the  chimney.  His  library  is  a  small  room,  in  a  very 
secret  place  high  up  in  one  of  the  towers,  well  secured  by 
doors  and  narrow  staircase.  Not  a  book  has  been  added 
since  his  days,  i.  e.  those  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  it  is  a 
vast  case,  three  feet  high,  which  opens  into  three  leaves, 
having  six  great  pages  pasted  in,  being  an  account  of  Saint 
Joseph  of  Arimathea,  and  his  twelve  disciples,  who  founded 
Glast07ibury  ;  and,  at  the  end,  a  long  history  of  Saints,  with 
the  number  of  years  or  days  for  which  each  could  grant 
indulgences. 

The  roof  is  coarsely  carved.  The  windows  are  high, 
and  are  to  be  ascended  by  three  stone  steps,  lest  the  in- 
habitant should  be  reached  by  some  arrow  or  shot  from 
without ;  such  was  the  caution  of  the  times.  It  is  said,  Lord 
William  was  very  studious,  and  wrote  much  :  that  once, 
when  he  was  thus  employed,  a  servant  came  to  tell  him 
that  a  prisoner  was  just  then  brought  in,  and  desired  to 
know  what  should  be  done  with  him.  Lord  William, 
3  vexed 


NA  WORTH-CASTLE.  f         1 75 

vexed  at  being  disturbed,  answered  peevishly,  "  Hang  him!" 
When  he  had  finished  his  study,  he  ordered  the  man  to  be 
brought  before  him  for  examination,  but  found  that  his 
orders  had  been  literally  obeyed.  He  was  a  very  severe, 
but  a  most  useful  man  at  that  time  in  this  lawless  country. 
His  dungeon  instils  horror  ;  it  consists  of  four  dark  apart- 
ments, three  below,  and  one  above  up  a  long  staircase,  all 
well  secured  ;  in  the  uppermost  is  one  ring,  to  which  crimi- 
nals were  chained,  and  the  marks  where  many  more  have  been. 

Close  by  the  library  is  an  ancient  oratory,  most  richly 
ornamented,  on  the  sides  of  the  cieling,  with  coats  of  arms, 
and  carvings  in  wood  painted  and  gilt.  On  one  side  is  a 
good  paintin  gon  wood,  in  the  style  of  Lucas  Van  Leyde?i', 
it  represents  the  flagellation  of  our  Saviour,  his  crucifixion, 
and  resurrection.  Here  are  also  various  sculptures  in  white 
marble  :  an  Abbess  with  a  sword  in  her  hand,  waiting  on 
a  King  who  is  stabbing  himself;  a  Monk  with  a  King's 
head  in  his  hand  ;  and  several  others.  This  place  is  well 
secured ;  for,  here,  Lord  William  enjoyed  his  religion, 
which  he  did  not  dare  to  avow,  in  privacy*. 

# 

The  chapel  is  below  stairs  ;  the  top,  and  part  of  the  side, 

are 

*  Notwithstanding  his  zeal  for  Elizabeth  and  for  James,  he  retained  the 
religion  of  his  ancestors. 


1 70  NAWORTH-CASTLE. 

are  painted  in  pannels,  like  the  hall ;  and  on  one  side  are 
the  crests,  arms  and  pedigree  of  the  Howards,  from  Fulcho 
to  1 023  and  1 644.  On  the  cieling,  beneath  a  great  sprawl- 
ing figure  of  an  old  man,  with  a  branch  issuing  from  him 
representing  the  Root  of  Jesse,  is  written,  "  Pictor,  MDXII." 
On  the  great  window,  in  glass,  are  represented  a  Knight 
and  a  Lady  kneeling — Thomas  lord  Dacre,  who  died  in 
1525,  and  his  Lady  Elizabeth,  the  rich  heiress  of  the  ba- 
rony of  Greys toke  :  on  his  tabard,  the  arms  of  Dacre  quar- 
tering Vaux  ;  on  her  mantle  the  same,  and  on  her  kirtle 
Grey  stoke- ancient  quartering  Grimethorpe  or  Greystoke- 
modern. 

When  The  time  in  which  this  castle  was  founded,  is  very  uncer- 

founded.     ^a«n^      jt  -g  SUpp0sec[  f-0  nave  been  by  a  Dacre*.     The  first 

mention  of  it  is  in  13Q8,  when  it  was  held  by  a  William 
de  Dacre.  In  January  156Q-JO,  it  was,  as  I  have  already 
mentioned,  for  a  short  time  seized  and  possessed,  together 
with  other  estates  of  the  family,  by  Leonard  Dacre  of 
Horsely  in  Yorkshire,  second  son  of  Lord  William  Dacre. 

The  several  ancient  inscriptions  on  stones  taken  from 
the  neighbouring  wall,  have  long  since  been  removed  to 
Rokeby  in  Yorkshire,  the  seat  of  the  late  Sir  Tho?nas  Ro- 
binson. 
*  Madox's  Baronia,  quoted  by  Mr.  Grose. 


-, 

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,vum  G~*y/UA  jo** 


L^AKERCOST        PllXOli  Y 


JuJ  JU***/  /#<?/    ^^  .ZT-a'ro  M*zr*fin.0  S&  J>all  JMalZ 


PEARLS.— LLANERCOST-PRIORY.  1 77 

binson.     This  castle  is  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,     . 
derived  from  his  ancestor  Lord  William  Howard. 


About  a  mile  farther  I  crossed  the  Irt,  or  Irthing,  cele- 
brated by  the  Editor  of  Camden  for  its  pearls*.     He  tells  Pearls  in  the 

i-i  r  IRTHINTG. 

us,  that  certain  gentlemen  obtained  a  patent  for  the  fishery, 
which  flattered  them  with  the  hopes  of  enriching  them- 
selves by  those  of  the  British  river. 


Not  far  from  its  banks  stand  the  remains  of  Llanercost  Llanmcost 

•  Priory 

Priory.  Here  are  to  be  seen  ruins  of  two  towers  and  some 
other  buildings,  and  an  inclosure  with  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  gate.  The  church  had  been  a  magnificent  pile, 
with  a  tower  in  the  centre.  The  west  door  is  very  hand- 
some. The  windows  above,  and  most  of  the  other  win- 
dows, are  high  and  narrow.  It  is  now  a  perpetual  curacy, 
with  a  small  stipend,  increased  by  Queen  Anne's  bounty. 
This  religious  house  was  a  Priory  of  Canons  Regular  of 
St.  Augustine,  founded  by  Robert  de  Vallibus,  son  of  Hugh 
de  Vallibus,  in  11 69,  for  the  soul  of  Henry  11.  the  great 
benefactor  to  his  father  and  himself,  and  for  the  souls  of 
his  father  Hubert,  his  mother  Grecia,  and  all  his  ancestors 
and  successors-^.  At  the  dissolution  the  revenues  were, 
according  to  Speed,  7Q\.  IQs. ;  to  Dugdale,  77^  7s.  lid. : 

a  a  at 

•  Gibson's  Camden,  11.  f  Dugdale  Monast  ii.  1 30. 


1 78  LLANERCOST  PRIORY. 

at  that  time  there  were  seven  Canons  and  the  Prior. — 
Henry  VIII.  granted  the  house  and  site,  and  several  appur- 
tenances, to  Sir  Thomas  Dacre-,  and  Edward  VI.  granted 
him  the  living  of  Llanercost,  and  several  other  churches, 
tithes  and  emoluments  belonging  to  the  Priory.  This  Sir 
Thomas  was  commonly  called  the  Bastard  Dacre,  being  an 
illegitimate  son  of  Lord  Dacre  of  the  north.  He  repaired 
the  mansion-house,  and  caused  the  following  lines  to  be 
painted  on  the  windows,  which  were  afterwards  removed 
into  the  east  window  of  the  church : 

» 

"  Mille  et  quingentos  ad  quinquaginta  novemque 
"  Adjice,  et  hoc  anno  condidit  istud  opus 

"  Thomas  Daker  eques,  sedem  qui  primus  in  istam 
"  Veneret  exstincta  religione  loci. 

**  Hzec  Eduardus  ei  dederat,  devoverat  ante 
"  Henriciis,  longee  prsemia  militioe." 

From  the  Dacres  it  came  to  the  Howards,  and  is  at  pre- 
sent possessed  by  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,  by  virtue  of  a  lease 
from  the  Crown,  to  which  it  reverted  on  failure  of  issue- 
male  descended  from  Sir  Thomas  Dacre*. 

The  burial-place  of  the  great  family  of  the  Dacres  is 

most  scandalously  neglected;    overgrown  with  brambles, 

and 
*  Bum,  11. 


PICTS  WALL.  1 70 

and  exceedingly  ruinous.  Among  the  mutilated  tombs  is 
one  with  the  Dacre  arms  included  within  a  garter,  which 
points  it  out  to  have  been  that  of  Thomas  lord  Dacre, 
knight  of  the  garter,  a  most  distinguished  personage,  who 
died  in  1525  ;  and  another,  under  a  corresponding  arch,  is 
for  Mabel  wife  of  Humphrey  lord  Dacre,  and  daughter  of 
Sir  Thomas  Par  of  Kendal,  knight.  In  1784  might  be 
discovered  the  remains  of  five  other  tombs  of  the  D acres, 
and  their  ancestors,  in  the  ruins  of  this  church. 

In  the  church-yard,  on  the  belly  of  an  ancient  figure,  is 
cut  a  modern  inscription,  denoting  that  John  Gow,  aged 
twenty-five,  broke  his  neck  by  a  fall  he  had  in  climbing 
round  the  top  of  the  ruins  of  the  church,  on  March  23, 
1708. 

At  a  little  distance  from  Llanercost  I  passed  over  the 
site  of  the  Picts  Wall,  as  it  is  styled.  Near  this  place  are  pICTs  Wall. 
some  remains,  about  four  feet  high,  on  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
but  in  an  adjoining  vale  rise  to  eight  or  ten,  with  very  perfect 
facing  stones  on  each  side  :  the  middle  part  is  composed 
of  small  stones  and  mortar  flung  in  (probably  hot)  with- 
out any  order.  The  facing-stones  are  from  ten  to  eighteen 
inches  long,  and  four  inches  thick.     Most  of  the  castles, 

a  a  2  religious 


180  ASKERTON-HALL. 

religious  houses,  and  other  ancient  buildings  near  the  site 
of  the  wall,  seem  to  have  been  built  with  the  materials. 

I  crossed  a  very  barren  unfrequented  country  northward, 
Askerton-    hilly,  and  covered  with  coarse  grass ;  passed  by  Askerton- 

HALL. 

hall,  an  old  house  with  two  towers  built  by  one  of  the 
Lord  D acres,  who  placed  here  a  garrison,  under  the  com- 
mand of  the  Governor  of  Gillesland,  who  had  the  title  of 
Land  Serjeant *. 

Beucastle.  About  three  miles  farther  is  Beucastle,  or  Bueth  Castle, 
so  called  from  one  Bueth,  Lord  of  the  country  at  the  time  of 
the  Conquest,  who  is  said  to  have  repaired  a  Roman  castle, 
and  called  it  after  his  own  name :  his  son,  Gils  Bueth,  was  slain 
treacherously  by  Robert  de  Vallibus,  at  a  meeting  appointed 
for  friendly  purposes.  Some  assert  that  Robert  founded 
Llanercost,  to  expiate  the  crime;  if  he  did,  he,  in  his  charter, 
drops  all  mention  of  the  deed,  which  he  certainly  would 
not  have  done  had  the  foundation  been  of  an  expiatory 
nature;  and  even  coolly  names  Gils  Bueth  as  former  pro- 
prietor of  certain  of  the  lands  bestowed  on  the  house. 
Bueth's  lands  afterwards  fell  to  the  Crown.  Henry  II.  be- 
stowed  it   on   the   last  Hubert  de   Vallibus-,   and  by  his 

daughter 
*  Camden,  ii.  1033.  -f  Dugdale  Monast.  11,  130. 


H 

tf' 

& 

->- 

« 

1 

w 

■"i 

Its 

IV 

Ja 

1 

H 

S 

fl 

J3 

J* 


•  »  •        *  ■  •  > 


I  *  «  •  w  t 

I  ••    *,  •     I    1   . 


BEUCASTLE.  181 

daughter  it  came  to  Thomas  de  Multon.  It  passed  through 
several  hands  till  the  fifth  of  Charles  I.  who,  on  consider- 
ation of  two  hundred  pounds,  granted  it  to  Sir  Richard 
Graham ;  and  is  now,  with  the  vast  territory  round,  the 
property  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Graham  of  Nether  by. 

The  castle  is  small,  square,  and  surrounded  with  a  foss ; 
was  garrisoned  in  the  year  1 (34 1 ,  when  it  was  dismantled, 
and  the  garrison  removed  to  Carlisle. 

* 

Beucastle  had  been  a  Roman  station,  and  garrisoned  by  A  Roman 
part  of  the  Legio  Secunda  Augusta-,  the  other  part  of 
which  lay  at  Netherby ;  and  both  intended  to  cover  the 
workmen  employed  in  building  the  famous  Wall.  Many 
vestiges  still  are  to  be  seen.  An  extensive  ditch  and  ram- 
part surround  the  church  and  castle,  and  between  the 
church  and  public-house  are  remains  of  several  buildings. 
Some  inscriptions  have  been  met  with  on  the  spot,  one 
addressed  to  Hadr'ian  the  founder  of  the  Wall  * ;  and  many 
coins  have  been  dug  up  at  this  place.  Mr.  Horsely  con- 
jectures, from  an  inscription  which  he  supposes  to  have 
been  brought  from  hence,  that  its  ancient  name  was  Jpia- 
torium  -J-. 

In 

*  Horfely,  article  Cumberland,  page  270.  \  Ibid,  pages  233,  271. 


1 82  BEUCASTLE. 

Fine  Runic         In  the  church-yard  is  the  celebrated  Obelisk,  carved  with 

Obelisk.  .  r  r  r\      •     ' 

figures  in  good  taste  and  great  power  or  fancy.  Un  it  is  a 
Runic  inscription,  which  was  copied  by  order  of  Lord  Wil- 
liam Howard,  and  sent  by  him  to  Sir  Henry  Spelman,  who 
again  communicated  it  to  the  learned  Wormius.  Wormius 
suspects  it  to  have  been  incorrect,  but  ventures  at  this 
reading:  Rino  Lapides  hos  runicos  posuit. — It  is  certainly  of 
Danish  origin,  but  the  time  and  cause  of  its  erection  are 
quite  unknown.  Its  height  is  fourteen  feet  two  inches;  its 
breadth  on  the  bottom  of  the  broadest  side,  one  foot  ten;  of 
the  narrowest  side,  one  foot  seven ;  on  the  top,  one  foot 
four. 

From  Beucastle  I  rode  about  twenty  miles  along  a  very 
bad  and  uncultivated  country,  with  here  and  there  a  tract 
of  oats  or  barley  :  passed  through  the  village  and  parish 
of  Stapleton,  the  first  place  granted  forth  as  a  fee  of  the 
barony  of  Gillesland  *  ;  crossed  the  Line,  and  reached  Ne- 
tlierby,  where  I  again  experienced  the  hospitality  of  its 
owner,  the  Reverend  Mr.  Graham  -j~.  Numbers  of  pieces 
of  antiquity  had  been  collected  here  since  my  former  visit 
to  this  place. 

From 

*  Burn,  11,  479- 
f  He  died  February  2,    1782;    was  succeeded  by  bis  son  Charles,  wbo 

died  soon  after ;  he  was  succeeded  by  his  brother  James,  created  a  Baronet 

December  28,  1782. 


BURGH-MARSH.  183 

From  thence  I  took  a  ride  through  Longtoum  and  Ar- 
thuret.  The  last  was  a  barony,  granted  by  Ralph  de  Mes- 
chines  to  Turzent  Brundey,  &  Fleming,  which  was  confirmed 
to  him  by  Henry  I.  In  the  reign  of  King  John  it  was  in 
the  hands  of  the  Stotevilles  *,  a  potent  family,  derived  from 
a  wild  adventurer  from  Normandy,  as  may  be  collected  from 
the  curious  additions  to  his  name,  of  Gron  de  boef,  and  Front 
de  boef.  I  forded  the  Line,  and,  after  a  short  ride,  reached 
Rocliff,  and  there  crossed  the  Eden,  which  falls  into  the 
Sokvay  Frith,  a^  little  lower  down.  Small  vessels  come  up 
as  far  as  this  place  at  high  water,  which  makes  it  the  port 
to  Carlisle. 

From  thence  I  visited  Burgh-marsh,  in  a  parish  of  the  Burgh-Marsh. 
same  name,  on  which  Edward  I.  yielded  his  last  breath, 
on  July  7,  1307,  within  sight  of  Scotland,  a  country  he  had 
devoted  to  the  sword  for  bravely  vindicating  its  own  inde- 
pendency. All  his  steps  for  some  time  before  his  death 
were  marked  with  cruelty.  He  condemned  to  the  gibbet 
persons  of  the  first  consideration  in  the  Scottish  nation,  who 
had  taken  arms  in  behalf  of  their  country,  making  no  dis- 
tinction between  the  treasons  of  natural  subjects  and  the 
resistance  of  those  who  owed  him  no  allegiance,  and  who 
preferred  the  government  of  one  of  their  countrymen  to 
that  of  a  rival  prince.    So  animated  was  he  against  the  Scots, 

that 

*  Burn,  11.  Dugdale's  Baron.  I,;  455. 


1 84  BURGH-MARSH. 

that  he  left  Carlisle,  in  a  dying  condition,  to  put  himself  at 
the  head  of  his  army,  and  was  so  weak  that  he  could  pro- 
ceed only  six  miles  in  four  days.  He  reached  Burgh  on 
the  sands,  and  expired  there  in  the  arms  of  his  domestics 
the  morning  after  his  arrival.  Thus  died  the  greatest,  the 
best,  and  the  wisest  of  the  English  monarchs.  All  his  ac- 
tions were  directed  to  the  good  of  his  own  dominions ;  yet 
the  love  of  truth  must  extort  the  confession,  that  when  the 
conquest  of  Scotland  became  the  favourite  object  of  that 
end,  the  dictates  of  equity  and  the  feelings  of  humanity 
were  totally  eradicated. 

Henry  duke  of  Norfolk,  in  1685,  at  that  time  owner  of 
this  barony,  erected  a  square  column,  with  a  cross  on  the 
top,  in  memory  of  this  prince.  On  one  side  is  this  brief 
inscription : 

"  Memoriae  aeternae 

"  Ed  ward  1 1.  Regis  Angliae  longe 

"  clarissimi :  qui  in  belli  apparatu 

"  contra  Scotos  occupatus,  hie 

"  in  castris  obiit  7  Julii 

"A.  D.  1307." 

On  the  other  side  the  noble  founder  of  the  column  by 
no  means  forgets  his  own  importance  and  dignities,  nor  the 
blood  of  all  the  Howards : 

3  "  Nobi- 


BURGH-MARSH.  .  185 


<t 


Nobilissimus  Princeps  HEN.  HOWARD,  Dux  Norfolc.  Com. 
"  Marechal  Angl.  Com.  Arundel,  Surr.  Norfolc.  et  Norwic.  Baro 
"  Howard,  Mowbray,  Seagrave,  de  Brews,  de  Gower,  Fitz-Alan, 
"  Warren,  Lescales,  Clun,  Oswaldstre,  Maltravers,  Fur  naval, 
"  Graystock,  et  Howard  de  Castlcrising,  Praeno.  Ord.  Garter  Mil. 
**  Constab.  et  Gubernator  Regal.  Castri  et  Honor,  de  Winsor.  Dom. 
'*  Locum-ten.  Norfolc.  Surr.  Berk,  et  Civit.  Com.  Civ.  Norvici,  ab 
"  Edwardo  I.  Rege  Anglice  oriundus." 

This  marsh  is  washed  by  the Solway  Frith.  Severus\ Wall, 
or,  as  it  is  vulgarly  called,  The  Picts,  commences  at  the  extre- 
mity, at  Bowness,  on  which  stood  the  station  Blatum  Bui- 
gium,  the  first  of  the  line  of  forts  which  was  garrisoned  by  the 
Romans  to  secure  the  obedience  of  this  part  of  the  island. 
The  next  was  Axelodunum ;  some  very  small  remains  of 
which,  in  form  of  ramparts,  are  yet  to  be  seen.  Burgh, 
which  signifies  a  fortress,  owes  its  name  to  the  lost  fort. 
The  wall  runs  through  this  parish,  and  from  thence  to  Car- 
lisle. I  must  not  quit  the  spot  without  saying,  that,  after 
the  Conquest,  De  Meschines  bestowed  this  barony  on  his 
brother-in-law  Robert  de  Est  rivers  or  Trevers.  From  him 
it  fell  by  marriage  to  the  Ewgayns,  and  from  them  again  to 
the  De  Morvilles.  This,  and  divers  other  lands  in  this 
county,  were  held  by  comage,  or  the  service  of  blowing  a 
horn  by  way  of  alarm  whenever  an  invasion  of  the  Scots 

was  perceived*. 

b  b  After 

f  Blounfs  Tenures,  13. 


186  CASTLE-CARROCK.— CUMREW. 

After  passing  a  few  days  with  the  worthy  family  at  Ne- 
ther by,  I  took  the  road  to  Carlisle,  on  the  23d  of  August. — 
I  waited  on  Philip  Howard,  esq.  of  Corbie-castle,  and  expe- 
rienced a  most  polite  reception. 

Aug.  24.  I  soon  fell  into  my  former  track  at  Castle-carrock,  a  small 

village  and  parish  at  the  foot  of  the  great  mountain  Cross- 
fell.  To  this  mountain  Donald,  in  his  map  of  Cumberland, 
gives  the  height  of  nine  hundred  and  ninety -eight  yards 
above  Bassenthwaite-water,  and  eleven  hundred  and  eight 
above  the  sea.  This  parish  is  within  the  barony  of  Gilles- 
land.  I  went  next  through  Cnmrew,  at  the  foot  of  its 
fells,  on  the  top  of  which  appeared  two  cairns.  Some  con- 
siderable ruins  lie  at  a  small  distance  from  the  church  : 
they  are  supposed  to  be  those  of  Dunwalloght,  formerly  the 
property  of  William  lord  Dacre  of  the  north,  who  obtained 
licence  from  Edward  I.  to  fortify  and  convert  it  into  a  castle  #. 
About  this  country  are  many  of  the  black  grous,  which  in- 
habit the  small  woods  scattered  over  the  neighbourhood. 
I  rode  through  Carlatton,  a  place  of  a  few  houses;  crossed  the 
Croglin,  on  a  bridge  of  a  single  arch  :  the  country  hereabout 
consists  of  moors  and  corn-lands.  I  kept  ascending  for  a 
considerable  way ;  went  by  Heskew,  near  which  is  a  piece 
of  a  ruined  tower.  I  gained  the  height  of  Hartside-fell — 
a  most  arduous  ascent  up  a  black  lofty  mountain,  from  the 

summit 
#  Dugdale's  Baron.  11.  22. 


ALSTON  MOOR.  187 

summit  of  which  is  a  view  of  vast  extent.  I  descended 
along  the  side,  and  had  a  most  dreary  view  of  a  black  tract, 
and  some  poor  collieries  :  came  to  a  narrow  vale,  cultivated 
on  both  sides,  and  watered  by  the  Tyne,  here  an  inconsider- 
able stream  arising  out  of  a  fell  a  few  miles  to  the  south. 
I  reached 

Alston  Moor,  a  mine,  and  market- town,  consisting  of  a  Alston  Moor. 
number  of  small  houses  covered  with  flags,  built  irregularly, 
and    extending  lengthways  up  the  side  of  a  hill.      This 
manor  had  been  at  different  times  the  property  of  the  Ve- 
teriponts.   In  the  reign  of  He?iry  V.  of  John  de  Clifford ;   in 
that  of  his  successor,  of  Thomas  Whitlow,  who  granted  it 
to  William  Stapleton  and  his  wife.     Mary,  co-heiress  of 
that  house,  conveyed  it  to  a  second  son  of  Sir  Richard 
Musgrave  of  Hartley-castle.     It  afterwards  devolved  to  a 
Hilt on,  son  of  that  Lady  by  a  first  husband.     His  descend- 
ants possessed  it  till  the  time  of  James  I.  when  Henry  Hil- 
ton of  Hilt07i,  esq,  sold  it  to  Francis  Rat  cliff  baron  of  Dil- 
ston  near  Hexham  in  Northumberlajid,  in  whose  house  it 
continued  till  the  attainder  of  the  unfortunate  James  earl  of 
Derwentwater  in  1715.     The  estates  of  that  Nobleman  in 
this  county  are  extremely  rich  in  lead  ore.     It  appears  by 
the  Moor-master's  books,  as  related  by  Dr.  Burn,  that  in 
three  years,  viz.   1766,    17^7*  and    1768,  the  mines  pro- 
duced sixty-one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  thirty  byngs 

b  b  2  of 


188  ALSTON  MOOR. 

of  ore,  which,  at  the  valuation  of  each  byng,  in  those  years, 
at  21.  15s.  each,  amounted  to  the  vast  sum  of  1 70,0321.  10s. 
This,  and  the  other  estates  of  Lord  Derwentwater,  were,  by 
Act  of  Parliament,  in  1735,  vested  in  Greenwich  -hospital* ,. 
and  bring  in  a  vast  revenue  to  that  magnificent  and  useful 
foundation.  At  the  time  of  the  forfeiture  they  were  sup- 
posed to  amount  to  about  seven  thousand  pounds  a  year ; 
yet,  by  the  contrivance  or  connivance  of  the  Commissioners 
of  the  Forfeited  Estates,  were  sold  for  the  sum  of  1 0()0l.  *J- 
The  villainy  of  the  transaction  was  detected,  in  1 732,  by  the 
sagacity  and  pains  of  Thomas  lord  Gage,  then  in  the  House 
of  Commons,  who  was  honoured  by  the  thanks  of  the  House 
for  his  services^.  Two  of  the  Members  concerned  as  com- 
missioners in  this  infamous  affair,  were  expelled ;  and  a  third, 
who  appeared  to  have  been  drawn  into  an  irregularity  only 
in  the  proceedings,  received  a  reprimand  from  the  Speaker 
in  his  place  §.  This  ought  to  be  an  example  to  posterity, 
particularly  to  men  in  power,  who  may  attempt,  under 
specious  pretences,  the  destruction  of  benefits  intended  for 
the  public  good,  whether  the  foundation  be  recent  or  an- 
cient ;  whether  it  be  the  alienation  of  Church  Lands,  or  of 
those  allotted  for  the  support  of  the  Poor.     The  securities 

are 

*  Ruff  heads  Statutes,  vi.  317- 

t  Hist,  and  Proceedings  of  the  House  of  Commons,  vii.  154. 

%  Same,  240 ;  and  Lodge's,  Irish  Peerage,  iii.  300.        $  Hist.  &c.  vii.  240. 


ALSTON  MOOR.  189 

are  now  good,  the  tenures  firm.  If  they  should  be  disposed 
of  for  money,  every  day  may  produce  instances  of  the  loss 
sustained  by  the  laying  it  out  improperly  for  selfish  ends. 
The  same  may  happen  in  an  exchange  for  other  lands.  A 
little  recollection  will  remind  us  of  the  sums  endangered 
to  the  Poor,  by  the  laying  out  of  money  on  the  temporary 
mortgages  of  tolls  of  turnpikes.  It  cannot  be  doubted, 
that,  when  Parliament  takes  into  consideration  the  move- 
ments of  the  lesser  wheels  of  government  and  policy,  it  will 
not  neglect  an  inspection  into  these  breaches  of  trust,  and 
cause  full  justice  to  be  executed  on  those  who  may  have 
dared  to  abuse  the  most  sacred  of  deposits. 


THE  END. 


INDEX. 


Appleby,  page  139 

Castle,  139 

,  a  Roman  Station,  142 

,  Inscription  there,  143 

Arthur's  Round  Table,  1 57 
Adclingham,  164 
Askerton-hall,  180 
Arthuret,  183 
Alston  Moor,  1 87. 

B 

Bank,  16 

Boteler,  Family  of,  19 

,  Tomb  of  Sir  Thomas  and  his 

Lady,  20 
Bewsey-hall,  19 

1  Curious  Picture  at,  20 

Bold-hall,  20 
Burscough  Priory,  53 
Bootle,  Sir  Thomas,  54 

,  Family  of,  59 

Brindle-church,  63 
Blackburn,  65 

Church,  66 

Bashall-hall,  86 
Bolton-hall,  103 

■ ,    Henry    VI.    sheltered 

there,  103 
Church,  105 


Bolton  Church,  Tombs  there,  105 
Bellingham,  Alan,  120 
Burn,  Dr.  122 
Brough,  135 

Castle,  1 36 

Church,  1 37 

Bondgate  Church,  138 
Bur  wens,  150 
Brougham  Castle,  155 
British  Names,   169 
Brampton,  171 
Beu  Castle,  180 

,  a  Roman  Station,  181 

Burgh  Marsh,  183 
Bowness,  185. 


Chester,  1 

Canal,  Duke  of  Bridgevvater's,  2 

Cartismandua,  Queen  of  the  Brigan- 

tes,  5 
Croxteth,  47 
Chisenhall,  Colonel,  57 
Calder,  the  River,  68 
Clithero,  75 

■ ■  Castle,  76 

Chapel,  78 

Church,  78 

Cloudberries,  111 

Castle 


1Q2 


INDEX 


Castle  Berg,  page  1 1 1 

Clapham,  l\S> 

Carlisle,  Sir  Andrew  tie  Harcla,  Earl 

of,  124,  127 
Clifford,  Henry  Lord,  137 
Cumberland,  Geo.  Clifford,  Earl  of, 

139 
,  Margaret,  Countess  of, 

her  tomb,  144 
,  Francis,  Earl  of,  156 


Clippergate,  148 
Crakcntborpe,  148 
Chace,  a  famous,  153 
Clifford,  Roger  de,  156 
Clifton,  157 
Carleton-hall,  158 
Castle  Carrock,  186 
Cross-fell,  186 
Cumrew,  186 
Carlatton,  186 
Croglin,  the  River,  1 86. 

D 

Dunham,  1 

Derby,"  Thomas  first  earl  of,  22 

,  Margaret  countess  of,  23 

■ ,  Thomas  second  earl  of,  25 

,  Edward  third  earl  of,  25,  26 

,  Henry  fourth  earl  of,  28 

,  Ferdinand  fifth  earl  of,  28 

,  William  sixth  earl  of,  32 


• ,  James  seventh  earl  of,  33 

,  Charlotte  countess  of,  37,  57 

,  Charles  eighth  earl  of,  39 

,  William  ninth  earl  of,  40 

■ ,  James  tenth  earl  of,  46 

Douglas,  River,  61 


Dorset,  Anne  countess  of,  133,  139, 

157,  163 
,  her  tomb, 


145 


house,  147 


,  her  Alms- 

,    her    Co- 


lumn, 154 
Dartmouth,  George  earl  of,  16 1 
Deadman's  Stack,  166 
Dacre,  Defeat  of  Leonard  Lord,  166 

,  Sir  Thomas,  178 

— ,  Thomas  Lord,  17.9 

Dunwalloght,   186 
Derwentwater  Estates,  1 87. 


E 

Eccleston,  61 

Ebbing  Well,  113 

Eden,  the  River,  134,  164 

Egglesfield,  Robert  de,  137 

Eimont-bridge,  158 

Eden-hall,  160 

,  the  Luck  of,  163 


Church,  163 


Edward  I.  183. 


Frodesham,  1 
Furness-fells,  1 1 3 
Fothergill,  Dr.  George,  123. 

G 


Gropen-hall,  12 
Gisburn  Park,  106 


Gordal 


INDEX. 


1$3 


Gordal  Coves,  page  108 

■ Scar,  1 1 0 

Giants  Pots,  135 
Gelt-bridge,  171 
Gillesland,  172 
Grouse,  black,  186 
Gage,  Thomas  lord,  1 88. 

H 

Halton-castle,  2 
Henry  VII.,  56 
Houghton  Tower,  64 
Hodder,  the  River,  85 
Henry  VI.,  87,  103 
Hacken-hall,  91 
Hothersal-hall,  100 
Helifield,  107 
Harcla-castle,  126 

,  Sir  Andrew  de,  127 

Helbec-hall,  137 
Harthorn  Oak,  153 
Hutchinson,  Mr.  William,  160 
Hutton,  Sir  Richard,  162 
Howard,  Lord  William,  172,  174 
Heskew,  186 
Hartside-fell,  186. 

i 

Ingleton,  114 

Ingleborough-hill,  114 
Irthing,  the  River,  177 


there,  177. 


Knowsley,  21 


Pearl  Fishery 


K 


c  c 


Knowsley,  Portraits  there,  22 

— ,  Pictures  there,  41 

Kirkby- Lonsdale  Bridge,  117 

— —  Church,  118 

Kendal,  119 

,  Monuments  there,  1 19 

,  Barony  of,  121 

Kirkby-Stephen,  123 

Church,  123 

■,  Tombs  there,  124 

Kirkby-Thore,  149 
Kirk-Oswald,  167. 


Latchford-heath,  12 
Limme,  14 
Lydiate  Chapel,  51 
Latham,  54 

,  Siege  of,  57 

Almshouses,  60 

,  Sir  Thomas  de,  60 

Leyland,  61 

Lulworth  Castle,  86  , 

Langho-green,  90 
Lune,  the  River,  117 
Lamerside-hall,  131 
Lowther,  the  River,  157 
Long  Meg,  164 
Llanercost  Priory,  177 
Long  Town,  1 83. 

M 

Mere,  5 

Mill-bank,  15 

Mersey,  the,  15 

Molyneux,  Family  of,  48 

,  Tombs  of,  49 

Mac- 


194 


INDEX. 


Macallame,  Ann,  Portrait  of,  p.  69 
Malkin  Tower,  79 

Mitton,  S2 

■ Church,  82 

Malham-dale,  JOS 

,  Plants  there,  109 

Malham-turn,  110 
Musgrave,  Sir  Thomas,  124 

,  Sir  Christopher,  161 

,  Sir  Philip,  16T 

Machels,  Family  of,  148 
Maybrough-castle,  157* 

N 

Norton,  4 

Nassau,  Charlotte  Brabantinade,  38 

Norfolk,  Mary  duchess  of,  84 

Naworth-castle,  173 

Netherby,  182,  186 

Norfolk,  Henry  duke  of,  184. 

O 

Orford,  12 

Ormskirk,  51 

,  Tombs  of  the  Derby 

Family  there,  52 

Osbadiston,  Monument  of  Sir  Ed- 
ward, 66 

Hall,  99 

,  Sir  Charles,  99 

Orton,   122 

Ouzel,  new  Species  of,  159 

Obelisk,  Runic,  182. 


Prescot,  21 


Pendk-hill,  75) 
Pudsey,  Family  of,  104 
Penygent,  1 1 2 
Plants,   109,  114 
Pendragon  Castle,  131 
Pikes,  148 
Penrith,  158 
Picts  Wall,  179,  185. 

R 

Rock  Savage,  1 
Runcorn,  2 
Roman  Road,  82,  138 
Ribble,  the  River,  82 
Ribchester,  92 

,  ancient  Altar  there,  93 

— ,  ancient  Inscriptions  there, 

94 
Roman  Camp,  149 
Rocliff,  183. 


Sankey-brook,  17 

Canal,  17 

, ,  Plate   Glass    Manufactory 

there,  18 
Strange,  George  lord,  25 
Sefton,  47 

Church,  48 

Shaw-hall,  62 

,  Pictures  there,  63 

Standen-hall,  81 
Sherbornes,  Tombs  of,  82 

,  House  of,  85 

Salebury-hall,  91 
Salley-abbey,  100 
Sawley-bridge,  103 


Swinden, 


INDEX. 


igs 


Swinden,  page  107 
Settle,  111 
Shaw,  Dr.   120 
Shap,  121 

Stencrakc-bridge,  134 
Sandford-heath,  138 
Stapleton,  182. 


Trafford,  1 

Thanes,  6 

Thelwall,  13 

Tempest,  Family  of,  89 

Thornton  Church,  1 1 7 

Thor,  the  Saxon  God,  149 

Temple  Sowerby,  151 

Three-brother  Tree,  152 

Talkin-tarn,  170 

Tyne,  the  River,  187. 


W 


Warrington,  9 


War  burton,  14 


—  Painted  Glass  there,  1 1 


Winstanley  Hamlet,  46 
Whalley  Abbey,  68 

~ >  Angular  Grant*  to,  72 

■ Church,  74 

,  Conflict  at,  75 

,  Crosses  there,  75 

Witches,  7g 

Widdrington,  Honourable  Peregrine 

84  °       ' 

Waddington,  86 

-Hall,  87 

— ,   Henry  VI.    concealed 


there,  87 
Waddow-hall,  89 
Wharton,  Thomas  lord,  125 

■ —  Hall,  129     . 

,  Family  of,  129 

— ,  Philip  duke  of,  130 

Wildboar-fell,  134 
Warcop-hall,  138 
Whinfell-park,  152. 


Yarrow,  the  River,  61, 


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