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A TOUR
THROUGH INDIANA
IN 1840
JOHN PARSONJ
From a daguerreotype
A TOUR
THROUGH INDIANA
IN 1840
The Diary of John Parsons
of Petersburg, Virginia
Edited by
KATE MILNER RABB
NEW YORK
ROBERT M. McBRIDE & CO.
1920
.Alien county PubVicUbrary
900 Webster Street Copyright, 1920, by
PC Box 2270 ^._^, 9970 Robert M. McBride & Co.
Fort Wayne. IN 46801-^^'
Printed in the
United States of America
Published, June. 1920
1049333
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
John Parsons graduated from the University of
Virginia in 1839 and began the study of the law.
Not finding the profession to his taste, however, he
made a tour of Indiana in the spring of 1840, with
the intention of visiting a cousin, who had gone
there three years before, and of purchasing land and
settling there if he found conditions to his liking in
*'the "Wabash country." He was 23 years old at
the time, handsome, intelligent, a keen observer and
possessed of a charming personality.
The time of his journey is one of unusual interest,
being the year of the Harrison campaign, the be-
ginning of our modern presidential campaigns.
That it was a time when the traveler used the stage
coach, the canal boat, the steamboat, the horse's
back, to say nothing of an occasional day's journey
on the latest novelty in transportation, the railroad,
gives variety and interest to his travels.
Carrying some letters of introduction from East-
ern friends, he gained entry into what were known
as ''the most respectable families" of the various
Indiana towns he visited, and his observations on
family life, as well as on the country, are of suf-
ficient interest and value to warrant their publica-
tion.
Editor.
Special thanks are due to Mr. Lee Burns of
Indianapolis for the selection and preparation of
the pictures in this volume, and to the lyidiana
State Library for the use of the Play Billy the
Harrison campaign poster and for other courtesies.
Editor.
THE ILLUSTRATIONS
John Parsons .....: Frontispiece
Facing
Page
A Stage Coach on the National Road .... 10
An Ohio River Steamboat 28
The River Front, Cincinnati, in 1840 .... 34
The Eggleston Homestead, Vevay 52
An Old House at Madison 60
Tombstone of Jesse Vawter ....... 70
The Tunnel Mill at Vernon ...... 84
Announcement of Tippecanoe Rally, 1840 . . 88
An Old House Near Centerville 136
The Governor's House, Indianapolis, in 1840 . 178
A Pioneer's Cabin in 1840 .226
A ViNCENNES Play Bill of 1839 340
St. Francis Xavier's Cathedral, Vincennes . . 352
The Old State Capitol at Corydon 358
View of New Albany in 1840 . , , , ,. , 364
CHAPTER I
May 9, 1840.
1WILL seize the opportunity offered for an hour
or so of quiet while our steamboat lies at the
landing of the city of Wheeling, to chronicle the
account of my happenings since starting on my
journey, an act impossible on the long way by stage
coach.
Having decided on my trip to the Western coun-
try I made a careful study of ''The Western
Tourist or Emigrant's Guide Through the States of
Ohio, Michigan, Indiana and Missouri and the Terri-
tories of Wisconsin and Iowa," a book published
only last year by J. H. Colton of New York, which
purports to give a concise and accurate description
of each state with principal stage routes, canals,
railroads, etc., together with much other informa-
tion gathered from the letters of my cousin
Jonathan Parsons, who went three years ago to the
Wabash country and whom it is my intention to
visit.
I left Petersburg, Virginia, for Richmond by rail
the morning of May 3, 1840. My father accom-
panied me to the railroad depot in the family chariot
driven by old Uncle Peter and, ''wise and grave
man" that he is, occupied the time, like the elder
Crusoe, in giving me "serious and excellent coun-
1
2 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
seP' as to tlie conduct of one, like Robinson, of
"a wandering inclination" though hitherto un-
traveled.
My mother, after some tears shed when the part-
ing was imminent, troubled herself over a luncheon
she would have me pack in my carpet bag. This I
refused, however, having secretly determined to
dine in state at the Powhatan House in Richmond,
whose beautiful situation on the hill fronting the
capitol I had frequently admired on my visits to
that city.
Here I would willingly have lingered had the
journey planned been a briefer one; as it was, I
took the railroad again, and in due time arrived in
Fredericksburg. This method of traveling, a new
one to me, is in the main very pleasant, but the
rumbling, tremulous motion of the cars is not very
agreeable, and after the novelty has worn off, the
pleasure of it is much diminished by the fumes of
the oil, the hissing of the steam, and the scorching
of the cinders which are falling all around you.
Neither is it a very rapid method of traveling, for
I noted that we did not go beyond seven or eight
miles an hour.
It was therefore with a sensation of pleasure that
I left the railroad at Fredericksburg to enter the
stage coach, which was to take me nine hilly miles
to Potomac Creek, where I found the steamboat.
This last is a most excellent method of travel when
the boat is, as was this, spacious, rapid and very
clean. This part of my journey was made by night,
and being very weary, it seemed that I was only
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 3
through my first nap when Peter knocked at my
door to announce that we had arrived at Washing-
ton and that it was time to arise.
I tarried in this city only long enough for a meal
at that miserable caravansary, Gadsby's, as I had
viewed the city only last autumn, when a guest at
the reception of the lovely Mrs. Van Buren, wife
of the President's nephew, when, just home from
Europe, she assumed her place as mistress of the
"WHiite House. I had known her as the beautiful
Augusta Singleton of South Carolina, and with all
the sweet graciousness of her girlhood and alto-
gether unspoiled by her position as first lady of the
land, she welcomed me to the "White House, so ex-
travagantly refurnished by the President, an ex-
travagance which I surmise will be dwelt on at
length by our Whig orators in the months to
come.
Into a wretched, dirty omnibus at Gadsby's, with
my carpet bags tossed carelessly about by the hire-
ling, and off again to the railroad depot, where I
took the train to Baltimore, forty miles in two
hours. Here I stopped at Barnum's Hotel, a matter
for rejoicing, for if there is a hotel keeper in the
United States who merits the commendation of the
traveler, it is the host of this tavern. His neat
private parlors and bedrooms, his quiet house, his
obliging attendants leave nothing to be desired, and
when I think of his excellent table, the canvas-back
ducks, the soft shell crabs — anticipation can never
come up with the reality.
It is hard to realize that 100 years ago the land
4 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
on which this populous city stands was covered with
wide-spreading forests.^
How different a scene must that have been from
the one which met my eye on that never-to-be-for-
gotten day of my stay here, a scene well worth the
effort of my journey, had it terminated here. For
this very day had been chosen by the young "Whigs
for their national convention- partly no doubt be-
cause they hoped thus at the outset to discourage
the Democrats who were holding their national con-
vention in Baltimore at the same time.
From The Baltimore Patriot I copy a few lines
descriptive of the day and far more eloquent than
words my pen could inscribe.
Never before was seen such an assemblage of the people,
in whose persons are concentrated the sovereignty of the
government. . . . The excitement, the joy, the enthusiasm
which everywhere prevailed, lighting up the countenance
of every man in the procession ; the shouts, the applause,
the cheers of those who filled the sidewalks and crowded
the windows; the waving of handkerchiefs by the ladies;
the responsive cries of the people ; the flaunting banners ;
the martial music; the loud roar at intervals of the deep-
mouthed cannon. ... In no country, in no time, never be-
fore in the history of man, was there a spectacle so full of
natural glory. . . . Standing on an eminence commanding
a view of the line of the procession in the whole extent of
Baltimore Street, you beheld a moving mass of human be-
ings. A thousand banners burnished by the sun, floating
on the breeze, 10,000 handkerchiefs waved by the fair
*The census of 1841, the year after this, gives the population of
Baltimore as 102,313.— Editor.
' William Henry Harrison of Ohio had been nominated for Presi-
dent, and John Tyler for Vice-President, at the Whig national con-
yention, held in Harrisburg, Pa., Dec. 4, 1839. — Editor,
A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 5
daughters of the city, gave seeming life and motion to the
very air. A hundred thousand faces were before you, age,
manhood, youth and beauty, filled every place where a foot-
hold could be got or any portion of the procession be seen.
. . . The free men of the land were there, the fiery son of
the South, the substantial citizen of the East, the hardy
pioneer of the West, were all there. It was the epitome
of a great nation.
It was really a great and inspiring sight, with its
lines of marching men, its log cabins drawn by
many horses, its banners predicting the fall of Little
Van and the rise of the "Log Cabin" candidate. I
had not guessed that so much enthusiasm could
have been aroused over a comparatively unknown
candidate, a backwoodsman, as we of the East are
accustomed to speak of him. For my father was a
follower of Henry Clay, and while, with a mag-
nanimity which bespoke the hero, this truly great
man had pushed aside the kingly crown, my father
with many others felt that he truly deserved and
should have had the nomination.
There was much in what was said in the publica-
tions of the time anent the Democratic convention '
held on this same day to give a thoughtful man
pause.
One party, the Whig, said they, on this day cast
reason aside. The other, the Democratic, a digni-
fied, deliberative body, regiflarly formed, met
quietly, and broadly and plainly stated its principles
and submitted them to the consideration of the peo-
*At the Democratic national convention held in Baltimore on
May 4, 1840, Martin Van Buren was nominated for President, and
Richard M. Johnson for Vice-President. — Editor.
6 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
pie, made no mflammatory appeals, held no parades
of unmeaning contrivances, resorted to no clatter of
barrels and tin cups. The one — ^but I anticipate, for
a part of this was really in a discussion held in the
stage coach which I will transcribe in due season.
Rejoicing that I found myself in the city on this
occasion, but realizing that I must push on, I took
my seat that same evening on the cars of the B. & 0.
and Patapsco River Railroad. These cars were
drawn by horses for the distance of one mile, the
jangling bells on their harness a strange contrast to
the puffing steam engine for which they were then
exchanged. This railroad follows the winding bank
of the Patapsco, a noble stream at Baltimore, capa-
ble of floating any vessels that come to its wharves,
but before coming to Frederick it loses its impor-
tance and dwindles to the size of a fishing creek.
The river channel runs through a narrow valley
with imposing precipices along the entire course,
hence the railroad is constructed on the banks to
avoid making deep cuts and in this way increases
the distance between the two towns from forty-five
to sixty miles.
Some miles out from Baltimore stands Ellicott's
Mills, a place famous in a prosaic way for manufac-
turing flour, still more famous for its wild and pic-
turesque scenery. The bed of the river is rocky,
the shore steep and wild. During the hot weather
this is a favorite resort of the citizens of Baltimore.
On an eminence overlooking the village, stands
the Female Seminary of Mrs. Lincoln Phelps. This
was known to me by reputation, my cousin Lucy
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 7
having once been a pupil here, so that I had heard
of Mrs. Phelps's high literary reputation as well as
her signal success as a teacher of youth in those
moral and domestic virtues which sweeten and
purify life, and render woman a blessing and an
ornament to society, and I looked forth from the
car window with some curiosity. There I beheld a
group of females apparently bidding farewell to one
of their number, no doubt a pupil of the school, since
they were accompanied by an elderly female, with-
out doubt an instructress in the institute. The
young women kissed their young companion and
wept profusely, alternately wiping their eyes and
waving their hands as she boarded the train and
took her seat, unfortunately for me, in the rear of
the coach, where I had not the opportunity to
further observe her.
She was soon forgot, however, in my observations
on the landscape, whose private and public edifices
alike showed no particular taste in architecture, be-
ing marked by variety without uniformity. Fred-
erick, Md., our next stop, is a rich and populous city,
second in the state, but I had little opportunity to
observe it while transferring myself and my bag-
gage to the stage, glad of the change of vehicle.
I was the first of the nine passengers to take my
seat in the coach. I had heard much of the splendor
of these coaches on the Cumberland road, and this
one did not fall below my expectations. Indeed, I
was afterwards told that chance had sent me to
one of the most beautiful coaches of the famous
''Good Intent'* line. It was painted in brilliant
8 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
colors, its gilded panels ornamented with a picture
of the great Lafayette, whose name it bore, and the
interior was lined with soft silk plush. Both drivers
and line were famous. One of these drivers, Peter
Burdine by name, had once made a rhyme sung all
along the pike :
If you take a seat in Stockton's line,
You are sure to be passed by Pete Burdine,
Stockton being the proprietor of the rival line of
coaches known as the ' ' June Bug. ' '
There were three seats in the vehicle, each seat-
ing three passengers, so the capacity of the coach
was nine, with an extra seat beside the driver.
Scarcely was I seated before a second passenger
arrived and took her place in the opposite corner
of the rear seat which I had taken, a young female
whom I instantly recognized by her mantle, a long
circular cloak of rich brown satin embellished with
black velvet, completely enveloping her form, as the
pupil of Mrs. Phelps, who had taken the railroad
train at Ellicott's Mills. She, too, was evidently
westward bound. Her leghorn bonnet, encircled by
an elegant plume, shaded her face, and her jetty
eyelashes veiled her dark blue eyes, of whose melt-
ing luster I caught the most fleeting glimpse, and lay
upon her cheek, now mantling with the blush of
modesty at the sight of the stranger with whom she
must perforce sit alone.
Not for long, however. Speedily our future
traveling companions gathered, the first evidently a
minister of the Methodist denomination, a circuit
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 9
rider bound for the West, his baggage a pair of
saddlebags, which he threw carelessly under his
seat; the second, a rather handsome gentleman,
from his manner a politician, and, like myself, from
the South; and next, a man in Quaker dress and, to
judge from his bearing and the authority of his
speech, one high in their councils, and no doubt
bound on a mission of importance. The others were
uninteresting specimens of humanity for whom a
glance sufficed, though for these principals I have
just named I determined to learn, like the chroni-
cler of the Canterbury pilgrimage, 'Svliich they
Averen and of what degre,'* before our ''journey's
ende."
The coach full, off we started, going at a great
rate, past the beautiful and fertile valleys that lay
between Frederick and Hagerstown and on to Han-
cock, where the country is very broken and the hills
very high. Six miles from Hancock is the base of
the Cumberland Mountain, whose ascent we im-
mediately began and which continued for more than
three miles. It was a stupendous sight, as we
mounted higher and higher, the fleecy clouds over
our heads and far, far below the little brook, now
only a thread. Each held his breath, marveling at
the spectacle ; doubtless each mused on the thought
of how frail the bond between him and eternity, to
which a false step, the stumble of a horse, the break-
ing of a trace, would consign us. The parson voiced
our thoughts. "Give glory to God," he ejaculated.
* ' Give glory to God for His infinite goodness, to Him
who has shown us in this spot how frail is man.
10 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and how we are indeed held in the hollow of His
hand. Amen!"
The hilltop reached without the least slackening
of speed, down, down the next incline we raced, each
no doubt inwardly wondering if the bottom of the
hill would ever be reached in safety though some-
what comforted by the thought that the vehicle was
equipped by a novel device known as a '* brake,"
a piece of iron running across the bottom of the
stage and which the driver, by the use of a crank,
could throw against the wheel and thus impede its
velocity. And at the bottom of the hill was waiting
the postilion, an unusual sight, who quickly attached
the two horses he was holding to our four, to make
our next ascent easier.
From Hancock to Cumberland the road repeated
itself, the forty miles stretching between the two
highest points being filled in with hills and valleys ;
and then came Cumberland, a pretty place of 3,000
inhabitants, where begins the famous Cumberland
Road, commenced by the United States government
thirty or thirty-five years ago, and which almost
every year has been a subject of debate in Congress.
It has been carried through Wheeling, Va., on to
Terre Haute, la.* It is macadamized and is indeed
one of the finest roads in the United States, al-
though, from excessive use, it is in many places in
bad repair, in spite of the state act which I was
told was passed in 1828, authorizing the erection of
toll gates for the purpose of collecting toll in order
to make repairs on the roads.
* la. was the old abbreviation for Indiana.
im
A STAGE COACH ON THE NATIONAL ROAD
From an old print
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 11
"We halted, of course, at each of these old round
stone toll houses, most picturesque features of the
landscape. One of the toll gate keepers, I was told,
went by the name of ' ' Gate Bob ' ' to distinguish him
from the other Bobs of the locality.
From Baltimore to Cumberland, the road has also
been finished in the same style, but not so perfect,
by private enterprise.
From Cumberland to a little village called Frost-
burg, from Frostburg to Union, from Union to
Washington, Pa., runs the route, and the account of
the expense, which I will herewith set down for
future reference was as follows :
STAGE COACH PASSAGE
From Baltimore to Frederick $2.00
From Frederick to Hagerstown. ...... 2.00
From Hagerstown to Cumberland. .:.. . 5.00
From Cumberland to Uniontown 4.00
From Uniontown to Washington. . . . . .^ 2.25
From Washington to Wheeling. ....... 2.00
Through fare to the Ohio River. . .$17.25
The scenes and happenings of these two days and
two nights of travel were so varied and numerous
as, at the time, to be confusing, but as I look back
I see them in a series of pictures on my mind. The
broad white highway, winding ribbonlike over moun-
tain top and through valley, with its many stately
stone bridges, its iron mile posts and its great iron
toll gates, and over it the long procession of stage
coaches, like ours, going and coming, heralded by
the winding horn, with picturesque drivers, who, at
12 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
each appointed spot, drew up the horses, threw down
the reins and watched the quick attachment of the
fresh team, and off again at the same high rate of
speed; the great Conestoga wagons of which I had
heard but never seen, long and deep, bending up-
ward at the bottom in front and rear, the lower
broadside painted blue, with a movable board in-
serted above painted red, the covering of white can-
vas, stretched over broad wooden bows, and the
whole heralded by the bells on the high arch over
the horses ' backs ; the emigrant wagon, whose occu-
pants encamped at night by the roadside; an oc-
casional young man on horseback with a country lass
behind him, on their way to a frolic; ''pike boys,'*
the aristocracy, who dwelt beside the pike, and coun-
try boys, and now and again a long line of negro
slaves, driven along in couples, fastened to a long
thick rope.
At this last, not, to me, an unfamiliar spectacle,
the Quaker gentleman gave a groan. "How long,
O Lord, how long!"
The Methodist parson scanned his face closely.
"Brother, I have observed that you wear the garb
of the Society of Friends. From your abhorrence of
this lamentable sight I surmise that you are also a
member of the Anti-Slavery Society. It may be that
we travel on the same business, work toward the
same goal. May I inquire your name?'*
"Arnold Buffum," the Quaker responded.
"Then, without doubt you are that Arnold Buf-
fum, organizer of the American Anti-Slavery Soci-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 13
ety on the ground of immediate and unconditional
emancipation, bound to Ohio and the "West, so I
have heard it rumored, to hold meetings among the
people and to talk of the wrongs and sufferings of
the slave."
^*The Heavenly Father has called me to plead
the cause of the oppressed; to speak for the dumb,
and to show forth the cruelty of slavery."
*'My name is Louis Hicklin," said the circuit
rider, ' ' and on my return to my home near Madison,
I, too, have the intention of traveling over the state
of Indiana organizing anti-slavery societies. It
may be that there our paths will cross."
The Quaker lapsed into silence. I scanned him
curiously, for it was my first sight of one of these
agitators of whom I had heard little good. How-
ever, both he and the circuit rider were decent ap-
pearing men, and, the blacks having been left be-
hind, it seemed prudent to let the subject drop,
particularly in the presence of ladies.
The inns or taverns at which the coach stopped,
that we might take our meals, impressed me
mightily. There were taverns especially for the
wagoners, who patronized them in great numbers,
sometimes as many as thirty six-horse teams being
stabled on one lot for the night, and the assembly
room full of jesting, singing, dancing, drinking
wagoners; the other taverns, ''stage houses," as
they were called, were located at intervals of about
twelve miles and were of almost uniform excellence.
One feature of the fare I found a most interesting
14 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
novelty, a bread vulgarly called salt- rising, unknown
in the South, most delicious, and which, it is said,
will cure dyspepsia.
One incident connected with the tavern I shall not
forget. After waiting some moments in the as-
sembly room of a tavern not far from Wheeling we
were just obeying the summons to table when I ob-
served that the young female, who had modestly
withdrawn to one side of the room on our entrance
and had now passed into the dining room, had
dropped a small volume she had been perusing. As
I picked it up the title page met my eye, *'The
Flower Vase, Containing the Language of Flowers
and Their Poetic Sentiments," and below, in deli-
cate chirography, **To Caroline from Lucy."
I eagerly followed her and put the tiny book in
her hands. She thanked me almost inaudibly and
turned away to her chair, and somewhat chagrined,
I was left to talk to the Southern gentleman who,
by this time, I had learned was the Hon. Robert P.
Letcher^ of Kentucky returning home from a trip
to Washington to enter upon his campaign as candi-
date for Governor of Kentucky for the Whig party.
He had served in Congress several years and, I
gathered, was a man of great personal popularity.
He was not a gentleman in our sense of the word,
his father having been a brick-layer, but he had
chanced to fall, while a mischievous, headstrong boy,
under the influence of a famous teacher, a Mr. Fry,
who had turned his abilities in the right direction.
•Robert Perkins Letcher, 1788-1861, Member of Congress, 1823-
1833. Presidential elector for Harrison in 1837. Elected Governor,
of Kentucky on Whig ticket in 1840. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 15
I had already found him a most interesting conver-
sationalist. He dresses studiously plain, wears his
hair long, falling about his face, and his motions are
certainly not offsprings of the polished drawing
room, but under this plain exterior there lurks, if
I mistake not, an indomitable pride and a sense of
mental superiority.
''The Whigs," he assured me, **are certain to win.
Van Buren's shocking extravagance and misman-
agement of financial affairs have turned the people
against him.''
I ventured to take issue with him. *'I myself am
a Whig,'' I assured him, ''but I have heard my
elders in Virginia question the propriety of nomi-
nating a man comparatively unknown and whose
popularity rests solely on his military reputation
and to the fact that he lives in a log cabin."
The circuit rider smiled. "As to the humble con-
dition of that log cabin you will be able to judge
for yourself if you take the river route from Wheel-
ing," he said.
Mr. Letcher continued the conversation. "While
I appreciate to the full the ability and the merits
of my distinguished fellow citizen, Mr. Clay, I am
convinced that he could never have been elected, had
he received the nomination. And I surmise that
your elders have no idea of the following Gen. Har-
rison has in the West. I predict a great surprise
for you as you penetrate farther into the Wabash
country. Here in Pennsylvania, of course, Van
Buren has many followers," and he proceeded to
narrate with great humor an incident of a fight be-
16 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
tween Democrats and Whigs in which the Democrats
were the victors, which occurred on the Cumberland
Road and which he had witnessed on his journey to
"Washington. An old wagoner had exhibited from
the front of his wagon a petticoat in allusion to a
partisan and groundless charge of cowardice made
against Gen. Harrison. Even the young female,
Caroline, whose surname, alas, I know not — smiled
faintly as he narrated the incident. She has not
spoken to me, however, only nodded slightly in re-
sponse to the assistance I have occasionally rendered
her in alighting from or mounting into our vehicle.
Our minds perforce turned continually to politics,
for everywhere, in to^vn and countryside, we ob-
served the progress of the campaign. In one town,
we would see the log cabins, the barrels of hard cider
and hear the song.
Little Van's a used-up man,
A used-up man, a used-up man,
A used-up man is he,
while in the next town 'twould be all for Van Buren,
and the singers would roar out:
When the Whigs at a table begin to feel "hip,"
They roar out right boldly, * ' Hurrah for old Tip ! ' '
When another glass seems to indicate high,
'Tis three lusty cheers for old Tip and old Ty !
Alas, what a mishap is easy acquired —
In the month of November 'twill be '*Tip-sy and Ti-red!"
It was soon after this that the circuit rider, sitting
beside me at our evening meal, broached the sub-
ject of the continuance of my journey. *'I had
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 17
thought, ' ' I told him, ' ' of continuing overland to my
cousin's home."
''You will find the river voyage of much greater
interest and improvement to your mind," he coun-
seled me, ''and from my knowledge of our state of
Indiana you will have enough and more of journey
by land once you are within its borders. By the
river route you will see Blennerhassett's Isle
de Beau, Cincinnati, the largest and most flourishing
city of the West, the ''log cabin" of Gen. Harrison
at North Bend, and many interesting villages in
Indiana on to my town of Madison, with whose most
respectable families I shall be most happy to make
you acquainted."
The prospect was attractive, but I had heard much
of steamboat disasters and mentioned the large
colored posters I had seen in the East, made to warn
travelers by showing vessels whose boilers were ex-
ploding, throwing the mangled victims far and wide
into the waters. Mr. Letcher, who had heard our
conversation, smiled at this.
' ' Do not allow yourself to be unduly frightened, ' '
he said. "It is not so frequent a happening as you
might suppose. Most frequently it is because of
the ambition of the boat's master to maintain his
boat's reputation as the swiftest boat on the river.
Wood is heaped on, rosin sprinkled on the fires, the
boilers are forced to the limit, and all at once — off
they go, and the boat is blown into kindling wood.
There have been some famous explosions — the Ben
Sherrod, in '37, and the Moselle, in '38— frightful
catastrophes, both of them, but they served as a
18 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
warning to the other masters, and, judge for your-
self, our Methodist friend and myself have many
times braved the perils of the flood and still survive.
Besides," he continued, ''on the boat you will be
sure of continuing in good company. Our friend
here, myself, Mr. Buffum, for I take it, sir, you dis-
embark at Cincinnati, and — .'* His eyes sought our
fair traveling companion across the table, with
whom our conversation had been limited throughout
the journey to the merest civilities.
My spirits rose as her jetty eyelashes swept her
cheek in her nodded assent. Suppose the boat
should blow up, suppose I were given the chance to
play the rescuer, suppose —
"I think I shall take the river route," I said
quietly.
So our journey progressed, the circuit rider, who,
in spite of being the most ungainly, homely looking
man I ever saw, I had soon found to be possessed
of a very good mind and very well informed, and
Mr. Letcher passing the time with conversation on
many subjects, and the Quaker occasionally inter-
jecting a word when appealed to, otherwise he sat
silent, until, all too soon, we came in sight of Wheel-
ing, in my own state of Virginia.
CHAPTER II
Cincinnati, 0., May 12, 1840.
1HAD hoped to write freely and at length from
day to day on the boat, but the influence of the
high-pressure engines made the boat shake so
badly that I could not write legibly and so was com-
pelled to abandon the idea.
Having arrived in Wheeling, we — my stage coach
companions and I — ^upon inquiry learned that the
steamboat Pensacola was lying at the wharf ready
to go down the next morning. We accordingly
passed the night at a most excellent tavern where
I sought my couch early, being much fatigued, and
rose betimes in the morning that I might view the
City of Wheeling. This, I found to my astonish-
ment, a bustling city of 8,000 inhabitants, being a
place of embarkation and landing of goods for the
surrounding country, and the most important town
on the river between Pittsburgh and Cincinnati. It
has but one street of any importance, however, be-
ing shut in on one side by a mountain and on the
other by the Ohio River. These two, however, are
the sources of its prosperity, the river providing
commerce, the mountain iron ore for its forges.
The steamboat to which I presently turned my
steps proved to be a most elegant one. I was told
of the great improvement that had been made in
19
20 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
these vessels within the last two years. "Whereas
formerly the berths stretched the whole length of
the cabin, one part being curtained off for the ladies,
now staterooms have taken their place, both elegant
and commodious and giving both privacy and com-
fort. The salons are marvels of comfort and
beauty, the floors are carpeted, the folding doors
into the ladies' cabin richly paneled; indeed, the
whole of the noble vessel is fitted up with exquisite
taste. The officers and men are of a much better
class than formerly, less reckless than those com-
manders who risked the precious lives entrusted to
their care to keep up their vessel's record for speed.
Anxious to see the vessel on which I was to take
this journey, I arrived at the wharf before 10, and,
acting upon Mr. Letcher's advice, chose one of the
four rooms aft the wheel, which are considered safer
in blowing up or accidents of this kind. In my
ignorance, I had supposed we would start at the
time stated, 10 o 'clock. Instead we lay at the wharf
until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, taking on freight.
This, I learned, is the main object of the trip, and
when the boat is descending the river a stop is made
at every little hamlet, at many a lonely landing, to
leave freight or to take it on. This makes the
voyage tedious in the extreme if the traveler is im-
patient. *^You can make no calculations on your
arrival anywhere. You may calculate when an
eclipse will certainly happen, but you can not ascer-
tain the period when you will go 100 miles on a
steamboat without interruption," said my friend,
counseling me to patience, though in truth I had
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 21
sliown no impatience, foreseeing, as I did, much
pleasure both in the way of sightseeing and of com-
panionship.
Some humorous stories were told us by the com-
mander of our boat in relation to these frequent
stops. One day, as a boat was plowing along at a
rate of twelve miles an hour, it was hailed by a man
on shore. With difficulty the boat stopped and
rounded to, supposing he either had freight to be
taken on, or wished a passage, only to learn that
he merely wanted to know whether they could take
his hemp to New Orleans on their next trip. An-
other boat landed for a passenger who had been
signaling with both hands only to be informed that
he had not been signaling at all, but merely brush-
ing away the mosquitoes with both hands to enable
him to read the name of the boat.
In groups of twos and threes the passengers came
on, men whose dress and bearing indicated wealth
and position, planters without doubt from the South
who had been visiting in the East and were return-
ing home, frequently accompanied by their families
and servants; men whose assured manner without
the leisurely elegance of the planter class clearly in-
dicated the merchant; roughly-clad farmers; an oc-
casional smooth-looking gentleman whose shifty eye
marked him as a member of the gambling fraternity,
who I had been told infest the steamboats and are
the cause of many a comedy and tragedy. On and
on they came until I foresaw that we were to have
a large, varied, and interesting company from whom,
in the freedom of intercourse permitted in so
22 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
leisurely and pleasurelike an excursion, I should
liave ample opportunity to learn much of the West-
ern country. Our own party was already on board.
The circuit rider and Arnold Buffum had pre-
ceded me, for it was with Mr. Letcher that I had
gone about the city after breakfast. The young
female came later and had evidently gone at once
to her stateroom. Just as the last barrel was being
rolled aboard and preparations being made for lift-
ing the gang plank, I perceived far up the hill, a
couple hurrying towards the wharf, followed by a
negro carrying their bags. Something familiar in
the man's carriage caught my eye. I looked again,
and as he set his foot on the gang plank, recognized
him as Thomas Buford, my class mate at the Uni-
versity, whom I had not seen since the day of our
graduation, when he returned to his home in Missis-
sippi. His surprise and pleasure, when I rose to
greet him, equaled mine. The reason for his pres-
ence was soon explained. He had returned to my
state to marry the lady at his side. Miss Jane
Hunter of Ohio County, Virginia, and was now tak-
ing her back to his home in Mississippi, stopping for
a few visits on the way.
Mrs. Buford is a pretty creature of about 17, of
a figure full, yet delicate. Her hair is as black as
the raven's wing and has its very sheen; her eyes
rival it in hue and are as bright as stars. She is
extremely vivacious, and I speedily foresaw that,
no matter how tedious our journey in the matter of
time, we should at no time be lacking in entertain-
ment.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 23
**We were to meet my cousin here," she said.
''She has been at Mrs. Phelps's school at EUicott's
Mills and we were to accompany her on her journey
down the river. She was intrusted to my care — in-
deed, otherwise, she would not have been permitted
to go so far alone. Our carriage was mired a few
miles out of Wheeling, hence our delay. Have you,
sir, by any chance, observed her among the pas-
sengers, a very pretty young girl, extremely shy?"
''A young female from the Patapsco Institute
came out to Wheeling in the same coach with our
party," I informed her. ''I observed her come
aboard this vessel some hours ago."
' ' Oh, 'tis she ! ' ' she cried, and darted off, followed
by her husband, who had not yet reserved their
stateroom, and my friends and I resumed our obser-
vations of the ''deckaneers," ^ as the men are called
who handle the freight.
It was an hour at least before Mr. Buford, ac-
companied by the ladies, came on deck and sought
our group, the ladies, I surmised, having occupied
the time mth much important conversation on per-
sonal matters. We were all duly presented to Miss
Caroline Hunter, for such, I learned, was her sur-
name, and as I had surmised from our journey in
*From 1811 to 1830, the "deckaneers" as they were then called,
were native Americans whose manhood exacted a manly treatment
from their employers. Between 1830 and 1835, this work was done
by German immigrants. From 1835, through the Civil War period,
the Irish immigrants monopolized the deck labor upon the western
steamboats. Since the Civil War, the whites have been altogether
supplanted by negroes, and the term deckaneer has given way to
that of roustabout. The individual condition and treatment of these
crews have gone from bad to worse. — Editor.
24 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
the stage coach, she is most shy and modest. I had
now the opportunity to observe her more particu-
larly in the proximity afforded by the grouping of
our deck chairs. Her nose is the finest feature of
her face, which is very rare. Her face is one of
those which require studying. When excited in con-
versation she is very interesting, her deep blue eyes
have depths that — ^but enough of this — I am not in
love yet!
Mr. Letcher and the circuit rider proved them-
selves most edifying companions, as they sat with
us, commenting on the constantly changing scene
that passed before our eyes as the gallant steamer,
glorious champion over winds and waves, rode
with the current of the noble river. The Quaker
said little, but I noticed that he drew his chair near
ours always, and seemed ever intent on the conver-
sation. Gradually, into our group were drawn
many of the others. Some were already known to
Buford, others to Mr. Letcher. With some, we fell
to talking without introduction at the table or in the
smoking room or over the cards. For I confess
that I took a hand at cards occasionally and was a
witness late one night of a game of faro, in which a
negro man was staked and played by Bullock, a
negro trader. And lost, I should add, as well.
One of the men, a planter from Mississippi, as-
sured me that it was almost impossible to believe
the rapid changes in the Western country, which
imparts to it the character of a players ' stage where
both the actors and the scenery are shifted as fast
as you can turn your eye. ''It is difficult to
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 25
realize," said he, 'Hliat only twenty-nine years ago
the first steam craft ^ navigated these Western
waters and that these lonely shores, which hitherto
had echoed only to the occasional ululations of the
boatman's horn, were ever after to be wakened by
the shrill yet often musical whistle of the steam-
boat."
Not many years ago, he informed us, these river
banks were covered with the primeval forests, which
from time to time were mowed down by storms.
Over the fallen trees, masses of vines and creepers
soon ran, making a passageway impossible; trees
and wreckage were also brought by the floods, so
that many times the river traveler must go miles
and miles before he could find a landing place. In
the winter the stream was frequently frozen for
long periods, and when the ice finally broke up
terrible ice gorges were formed, the blocks of ice,
enormous in size, working themselves up on the
mainland.
Not only were the banks thus terrible and forbid-
ding, but the river bed itself was full of terrors,
seen and unseen. There were ** planters," logs
which were imbedded in the river bed and stuck out
of the water, either straight up or slanting, and
which were immovable. There were ** sawyers,"
trunks or limbs of trees protruding from the water,
*The New Orleans, belonging to the Ohio Steamboat Navigation
Company, incorporated by D. D. Tompkins, Robert R.. Livingston,
DeWitt Clinton, Robert Fulton, and Nicholas J. Roosevelt, December,
1810, was launched March, 1811, went to New Orleans in October,
1811, the first steamboat to navigate the waters of the interior. — •
Editor.
26 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
which were kept in motion by the swinging tides of
the river. There were bars, snags, rocks and sunken
logs, and worse than all these, the Indian foe along
the river bank.
*'And some of these dangers stili remain," Mr.
Letcher, who stood near by, reminded him. *'Ten
thousand obstructions were removed from the Ohio
in the twenties and thirties, but for some reason the
work has ceased, though as many more remain. It
requires great nerve and hardihood to pilot a mag-
nificent steamer like this on a river which has re-
ceived so little improvement. Wliether another ad-
ministration— " He broke off abruptly.
*'If you are meaning, sir, to cast any aspersion
upon the President, pray understand that as a loyal
Democrat, I stand ready to defend him against the
world," cried my friend Buford hotly.
I had not forgotten the fiery temper which more
than once had got my former classmate into trouble
at the University. Buford is a handsome young
fellow, with dark glossy hair, regular features, a
sparkling eye, and with a perfection of dress and
delicacy of swagger that mark the dandy, though he
is far from the empty-headed foppishness of that
class. He is in reality a fine-souled fellow with a
stratum of good common sense in his composition,
though with an excessiveness of the fiery tempera-
ment usually attributed to the South. I was re-
lieved at the tactful manner with which Mr. Letcher
relieved the situation.
*'I trust, my young sir," said he, ''that you will
recall the presence of our young female companions,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 27
and hasten to make your apologies to them. As to
the attributing of the failure to continue internal
improvements to any body of men, that is too large
a question to enter upon now. Pray note, my dear
madam," he turned to Mrs. Buford, *Hhe resem-
blance of yon hilltop to an ancient fortification."
Buford instantly collected himself, made his apolo-
gies, and, harmony restored, we sat in silence con-
templating the scene before us, whose beauties,
silhouetted against the sky and mirrored in the
placid bosom of the river, to be enjoyed should ever
be viewed from the deck of some quiet boat.
The banks on either side, approaching and reced-
ing like all earthly joys, present a succession of tall
and picturesque cliffs with alternate valleys,
meadows and woodlands which nature seems to have
arrayed with more than her customary regularity;
while numerous islands, decorated with superb
trees, complete a natural panorama. The deep
forests that cover the hillsides or lave their branches
in the waters of the beautiful river are arousing
themselves from the slumbers of winter, and against
their green appear at frequent intervals the white
umbrella of the dogwood, the pink blossoms of the
red bud, and the pendulous bloom of the trumpet
vine. Small wonder that the French, whose taste
is as correct as that of the Greeks, called this the
Beautiful River !
And yet it is not, as might be inferred from this
description, a quiet river. Craft of every kind were
continually passing us — steamboats, large and
small, going up and down the river; flatboats on the
28 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
way to New Orleans laden with corn, hay, pork and
manufactured articles and smaller craft of great
variety. These flatboat excursions, I was told, are
eagerly look 3d forward to by the farmer whose dull
and monotonous round of existence is enlivened by
these long journeys to the famous and far-away city
of New Orleans. The danger from the river bed
itself, from the river pirates and from the long,
tedious journey homeward, for, as the flatboats can
not come up stream, they are broken up and sold in
New Orleans and the men must walk home on "the
Tennessee Path" or *'the Bloody Way," as the
perilous road is called, does not deter them. Many
of these craft we passed on our way, among them,
a novelty, a floating theater, concerning which I was
told an amusing story. When moored one time at
an Indiana town, an audience aboard and the play
in progress, the moorings were cut loose by some
mischievous boys and the boat, drifting down, could
not be landed for some miles, from which point the
audience was compelled to walk home.
Added to the interest given our journey by the
sight of this varied water craft, was the excitement
caused by the steamboat landing. Heralded by the
whistle, blown several miles away, our boat would
approach a town, turn with a laborious churning of
the waters to make its landing at the floating wharf,
to find a crowd gathered to meet it. It has been
twenty-nine years since the first steamboat journey,
yet, 'tis said, interest in the boat's arrival never
slackens. The townspeople come aboard to see and
chat with their friends, the officers; the loafers
irr'Tw^'
mik
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 29
gather to watch the deckaneers unload the freight;
in short, the steamboat's arrival is one of the events
on the town's calendar.
I will here and now endeavor to set down my im-
pressions of the towns ere they slip completely from
my memory. Marietta^ the first town of any im-
portance, called, 'tis said, from the ill-fated Marie
Antoinette, was the first settlement made in Ohio,
being settled by revolutionary officers, soldiers and
their families of sturdy Puritanical stock of Massa-
chusetts and Connecticut, and to them is attributed
its culture and intellectuality.
The town is pleasantly situated on the right bank
of the majestic Ohio, at the junction of the clear
waters of the Muskingum, and in the midst of a
thickly wooded country whose hills furnished in un-
limited abundance the oak, the pine and the locust
for shipbuilding, which was established here in 1800.
By 1805, 'tis said, no less than two ships, seven
brigs and three schooners were built and rigged
here.
"0 wouldst thou view fair Melrose right,
Go visit it by pale moonlight."
The same might be said of Isle de Beau, Blenner-
hassett's Island, past which we floated by a moon-
light which transformed the historic spot into a'
scene of enchantment. ''This little world, the pre-
cious stone set in a silver sea," this little wooded
'In 1878 Manesseh Cutler and Winthrop purchased for The Ohio
Company of the general government 1,500,000 acres lying along the
Ohio River. The first settlement at Marietta was piade iu 1788, — ■
Editor.
30 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
island took on another aspect as Mr. Letcher, in
eloquent phrases, repeated the story of the ill-fated
Irishman to the two young ladies, re-creating the
past with an unbelievable vividness.
" 'Twas here," he said, 'Hhat this gentleman and
scholar, a man who could repeat from memory the
Iliad in the original Greek, came in 1801 and, having
purchased this island, reared upon it a costly and
splendid edifice for his dwelling house. A consider-
able part of the island was laid out into gardens
after the most approved model of European taste,
and the whole scenery combined seemed like the
fabled fields of Elysium."
He sketched for us the picture of the mansion
forming half an ellipse, with circular porticoes, one
wing with library, philosophical apparatus, labora-
tory and study, all furnished with luxurious comfort
and elegance — rich carpets, splendid mirrors, hand-
some curtains, costly silverware; he told us of the
idyllic happiness of the family, of Mrs. Blennerhas-
sett, a brilliantly active girl, '*a marvelously good
and sweet mother, hostess and friend," of the com-
ing of Aaron Burr into this paradise like the ser-
pent into Eden. He described the scene of Blenner-
hassett's flight, the w^anton destruction of their
Lares and Penates before Mrs. Blennerhassett 's
eyes, of her departure from her ruined paradise and
of her lonely death in a New York garret, closing
with a burst of eloquence which indicated the power
he must have over the multitude when he chooses to
speak.
**Few or no vestiges now remain of this transient
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 31
splendor and magnificence. The grandeur of this
rural spot, sequestered from the turmoil of Euro-
pean strife, rose in a few short months, exhibited
itself to our astonished view for a little time, and
then, like the evanescent phantoms of the night be-
fore the morning sun, almost as suddenly disap-
peared, resembling in its progress and termination
the effect of enchantment. ' '
As he ceased, all sat silent for a moment, under
the spell of his melodious accents and the spring
night, the air soft and rich with the perfume from
the dogwood and the wild plum borne to us on the
breeze as our vessel now and then swept near the
shore.
Miss Hunter had laid aside her bonnet and sat by
the rail, her head propped on her hand, her eyes
fixed on the island, fast disappearing from view.
The moon's rays revealed her rare features, pale as
though cut in marble. I noted a tear glistening on
her fair cheek — exquisite sensibility in one so
young !
At Gallipolis, the third settlement made in Ohio,
made by French immigrants, and which contains a
meeting house, a court house, a jail and an academy,
the commander of our boat called our attention to
a very large, semi-globular mound, eighteen or
twenty rods in circumference at the base, which
stands near the academy. Similar and more elabo-
rate works were viewed at Marietta, the work, 'tis
said, of long vanished aborigines.
The aspect from the river of Portsmouth was
most pleasing, mth its factories, large, substantial
32 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and handsome stores, dwelling houses and churches.
The iron manufactured in its blast forges is now
worth $2,000,000 annually.
Maysville, Ky., formerly called Limestone, though
settled, I was told, in 1784, is not the oldest settle-
ment in the state. On the 24th and 25th of this
month there is to be a celebration of the first settle-
ment at Boonesborough, at which, no Providence
preventing, Mrs. French, a daughter of Col. Richard
Calloway, and her female servant, who were in the
fort during the siege of 1777, will be present.
Maysville, they say, is one of the most important
towns on the river between Wheeling and Cincin-
nati. It presents from the river an unbroken front
of elegant brick buildings and has a good landing.
As a place of business, it ranks second to Louis^dlle.
I was astonished at the size of the place, its twenty-
eight or more stores of dry goods, its stoneware
manufactory, its paper mill. One of the merchants
from Louisville with whom I had become ac-
quainted, a Mr. Bulleit, assured me that the people
of Maysville, **for intelligence, industry and ster-
ling patriotism are surpassed by none in the
Union." In spite of this it was not mentioned on
the maps I consulted, I informed him. * ' I am aware
of this fact," said he, ''and why the authors of
maps have neglected, as so many of them have, to
notice so important a place as this seems strange
indeed."
Words fail me when I attempt a description of
Cincinnati, "The Queen City of the West," as it has
been called. This thronged city, with its work
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 33
shops, its marts, its stores, its canals, its roads, its
churches and schools, its vine-clad hills, the Corin-
thian house, the distant cottage, the observatory of
science, and all that labor and art of the modern
can furnish, has made a deep impression on me.*
Nothing I have seen in the Eastern cities can com-
pare with its landing, the extensive paved area of
several acres, and the long and elegant river front.
The situation, so far as the encircling hills on which
stand many of the buildings, reminds me of Balti-
more, as does also the cleanness and neatness with
which it is kept, though I am assured that it was
laid out on the model of Philadelphia. The hills by
which it is environed intersect each other in such
a manner as to form an imperfect square through
the northeast and southwest angles of which the
Ohio River enters and passes out. The winters, I
was told, are as cold as those of northern France,
the summers as warm as southern Italy, yet it is as
healthy a place as can be found anywhere.
As a seat of commerce, I shall always remember
Cincinnati with wonder. Its whole water front was
encumbered with packages of every description,
waiting to be loaded on the numerous steam vessels
moored at its floating wharves, the foreign imports
or the domestic produce of the Miamis concentrat-
ing on this point. The hurried arrival and depar-
ture, singly and in squads, of a whole battalion of
drays ; the unremitting labors of hands loading and
unloading the vessels in port ; the incessant ringing
of bells as signals to the passengers or the crews
* The population of Cincinnati at this time was 36,338. — Editor.
34 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
of the boats; the brief and abrupt interchange of
business among the clerks on board and those be-
longing to the mercantile houses of the city, this
gives the stranger an idea of the marvelous busi-
ness carried on. When I add that thousands of
dollars' worth of eggs are exported to New Orleans,
that as early as 1805, 4,457 barrels of flour were ex-
ported, and that the pork packing which has made
it famous was begun as early as 1812, and that manu-
facturing is also a feature of the city, some idea of
its importance may be gained.
We were told, anent the pork packing, that in
1827, cart loads upon cart loads of spare ribs from
these packing establishments were drawn to the
water's edge and emptied into the Ohio to get rid
of them. The influx of Germans and the rapid in-
crease of inhabitants gradually opened a market for
these delicacies.
What was my delight to be informed by one of the
officers of the boat that, owing to some repairs it
had been found necessary to make, we should be
compelled to lie at the wharf over night. Buford
quickly suggested that we make up a party for a
drive about the city, a dinner at the hotel, and an
evening at the theater. One of our party was to
be a Mr. George H. Dunn of Lawrenceburg, Ind., a
gentleman to whom I had been greatly attracted be-
cause of his intelligent interest in the matter of
internal improvements. My attention had been
called by Mr. Bulleit to the Miami Canal, the
earliest and most important of the great works
connected with Cincinnati, extending beyond the
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 35
flourishing town of Dayton, and which has, for the
last two years, paid more than the interest on the
debt incurred for its construction.
Mr. Bulleit was most enthusiastic over the canals.
**That sagacious and tranquil people, the Chinese,"
he said, ''have been accumulating the fruits of a
hundred generations on the subject. Canals are
with them as ancient as their history. Imagine a
Chinese woman guiding rapidly along a canal boat
of ten tons burden. She rows after the fashion of
the country, with an oar attached to each foot,
managing the sail with one hand. With the other
she holds a rudder and thus transports a load which,
when carried on land, would have required ten teams
and as many drivers to do it."
While Mr. Dunn was also heartily in favor of
canals, having in 1836 induced the General As-
sembly of his state of which he was a member to
pass an act authorizing the building of the White-
water Canal, whose beginning at his city of Law-
renceburg he promises to show me, he is most en-
thusiastic over the railroad, and is most desirous to
see one built between his town and Indianapolis, the
capital city of Indiana. 1049333
Our party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Buford,
Miss Caroline Hunter, Mr. Dunn, Mr. Letcher, Mr.
Bulleit and myself, soon found ourselves driving
about the city, first through the business portions,
and then the region of dwelling houses and public
buildings, from Broadway to Fourth, a row of
modern palaces, bordering broad, well paved and
thoroughly ventilated streets. We admired the
36 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
number, variety and beauty of the public buildings,
the taste and spirit which leaves spaces between the
private edifices for borders and sidewalks, and
furnishes an avenue to behold the garden attractions
in the rear of the houses, the verdure of the grass
plats, the fragrance of the shrubbery, which deco-
rates the front of the house, and the exhibition of
flower vases in the windows of those who have no
space except the rear of the buildings to cultivate.
These people, think I, have taste to improve and
spirit to enjoy, as well as ability to acquire.
Much impressed were we also by the public build-
ings, schools, museums, churches, manufactories, all
triumphs of art and industry. The manufactories
were amazing, the facilities for the pursuit of
knowledge unbelievable. The city contains a Medi-
cal College, a Law School, a Mechanics' Institute,
many schools, both public and private; pork-pack-
ing houses, shipyards, where many steamers are
constructed in the course of the year, and, of
especial interest to me, eight bell factories, turning
out bells to the aggregate value of $135,000. Cin-
cinnati supplies the whole of the Ohio and Missis-
sippi valley with bells of all sizes and every use,
making the best in the country, accurately propor-
tioned in ingredients and having a hanging and
mounting peculiar to Cincinnati and an unusual
beauty and melody. While they make many church
bells, it is for their steamboat bells that there is the
greatest demand, for it seems that it is the pride of
every steamboat master to have liis boat equipped
with a large, sweet-sounding bell,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 37
Our tour of the city completed, we dined at the
Shires House.^
The city boasts several theaters, but we agreed
upon Shires' Theater because it was adjoining
the hotel, and thither, after our dinner, we repaired.
Mr. Bulleit, a young man of somewhat pompous
manner and a good deal of commercial knowledge,
pushed himself next to Miss Caroline as we walked
toward the theater, and I am convinced would have
seated himself beside her had Mrs. Buford not
cleverly intervened, leaving the way open to me.
This theater has a commodious stage, a spacious
pit, one tier of boxes for a dress circle and an un-
commonly large balcony or second tier. The play,
of moderate interest, was called "Tortesa the
Usurer." Miss Hunter found much entertainment
in the notices printed on the play bills, among which
were the following: *'It is particularly requested
that dogs will not be brought to the theater, as they
can not be admitted," and, ''Peanuts are pro-
scribed. ' *
I was up betimes in the morning, and hence able
to observe the cities of Covington and Newport, op-
posite Cincinnati, both beautiful and flourishing.
The principal streets of Covington are laid off so
■This was the predecessor of the historic Burnet House. When
Judge Burnet transferred his property on Third and Vine to the
Branch Bank of the United States and removed to his new building
at the corner of Seventh and Elm, Mr. Shires converted the old
building into a restaurant and hotel and later built a theater on
the remaining vacant lot. Tliis last was a plain frame building
fifty by a hundred feet. It has beeil said that "Cincinnati never
Baw better playing and acting than on the boards of Shires' Theater."
•r-Editor.
38 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
as to present the appearance of a prolongation or
continuation of those of Cincinnati. It is separated
from Newport by the Licking River.
Our Quaker friend, Arnold Buffum, had left us
immediately on our arrival at Cincinnati, parting
from us, it would seem, with some regret. To me
and to the circuit rider he expressed, in bidding us
farewell, the hope that our paths might eventually
cross during my Indiana sojourn.
Soon after sunrise, our boat turned from the
wharf and began to plow its way down stream.
Twenty miles below Cincinnati, I was told, I would
see the *'Log Cabin" of Gen. William Henry
Harrison.
CHAPTER III
Madison, May 16, 1840.
HAVING just arrived in Madison, I shall pro-
ceed to jot down the incidents of my journey
from Cincinnati to this town, before retiring
for the night.
I came on deck early in the morning after our
evening at Shires ' Theater in order to have one last
look at the Queen City, and that I might not miss
a sight of North Bend and the famous ''Log Cabin" ;
and as a reward for my early rising was the witness
of several amusing and interesting incidents. Cin-
cinnati had faded from our view and we were again
gliding past wooded island, perpendicular cliffs and
happy valleys, when our steamer was hailed by two
fellows at a lonely landing, and turned in, as was
the custom, with a great puffing and churning of the
waters. As we rounded to, one of the fellows
shouted to the officer to know if the boat was bound
for Louisville and if he would take any kind of
freight.
"What do you want taken?" asked the officer.
**Not much," replied the fellow, "a grist mill, a
sawmill, two churches and a carriage and horses."
The officer, thinking the fellow a practical joker,
became infuriated, cursed him roundly, and ordered
the boat to back away from the landing. Then the
39
40 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
man explained that the mills piled up on the landing
did not weigh more than 400 or 500 pounds apiece,
and that the two churches were himself and his
brother, whose name was Church. At this, the
officer was propitiated and took them and their be-
longings aboard, for it appears that a rough sort of
joking is peculiar to these Western river men.
It was on this morning, too, that we saw great
rafts of logs, which I was assured come from afar
in the interior, down small streams swollen by the
spring rains, and are now on their way to the Gulf.
North Bend, the home of Gen. "William Henry
Harrison, was founded by Judge Symmes,^ to whose
daughter Harrison is married.
Here is a postoffice and a thriving circumjacent
settlement. Judge Symmes is interred on the sum-
mit of a knoll which is beautifully conspicuous to
miles of the river and country around.
The location of the famous "Log Cabin" is a
beautiful one. It is in reality a log cabin, but has
been covered with boards, has large wings added to
the original building, and the whole structure,
painted white, is quite palatial looking. It is ex-
tremely neat, and stands in a noble lawn with large
trees about it and has a fine view of the river.
The circuit rider, Mr. Hicklin, who knows Gen.
Harrison well, gave me much information concern-
* Judge John Cleves Symmes of New Jersey in 1787 purchased of
Congress what is known as the Miami or Symmes tract of 1,000,000
acres lying between the Great and Little Miami Rivers and bordering
on the Ohio, where he started the second settlement made in Ohio.
In the great freshet of 1789 Symmes found that his town site was
imder water and in 1790 began another settlement at North Bend,
first called Symmes City. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 41
ing him. It seems that he is much interested in the
Methodist ministers and Mr. Hicklin has in his pos-
session a letter from Gen. Harrison to a friend
which he permitted me to read and from which I
make a few notes.
^'I have been a witness," he wrote, **of their con-
duct [the circuit riders] in the Western country for
nearly forty years. They are men whom no labor
tires, no scenes disgust, no danger frightens in the
discharge of their duty. The vow of poverty is not
taken by these men, but their conduct is precisely
as it would have been had they taken one. Their
stipulated pay is barely sufficient to enable them to
perform the services assigned them.'*
The circuit rider narrated an incident illustrating
Gen. Harrison's kindness. A Methodist minister
traveling through southern Ohio had passed the
night at his home. In the morning, he was informed
that his horse had died during the night. Gen.
Harrison bade him farewell, expressing his con-
dolence over the loss, and the sorrowing .minister
left the house to find waiting for him at the gate,
one of the general's own horses, a parting gift, ac-
coutered with his own saddle and bridle. This is but
one of his many benevolences. Small wonder that
he is held in such high esteem!
Asking for details of his life, for I must confess
that we in the East have heard little and thought
less of this Western Indian fighter, I was told that
he resigned his commission in 1814, that two years
after he was elected to Congress, then in 1824 state
senator in Ohio, in 1828 had been appointed min-
42 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ister to Colombia, South America. The fact that he
had won the battle of Tippecanoe, which battle field
it is my intention to visit, as well as Vincennes, the
city which* was the capital when Gen. Harrison was
Territorial Governor, increased my interest in this
hero of the Western country.
On his return from South America, Gen. Harrison
retired to this farm, by no means rich, having never
asked nor received compensation for his services in
the Tippecanoe expedition, and here, contented with
the honors acquired by years of pathetic devotion
to his country, he has lived, employing himself in
rural occupations and at the same time gathering
from the soil his support, which others, if not more
selfish, yet more careful of their own interests, have
secured from the emoluments of office.
In person, he is tall and slender ; his eye is dark
and remarkable for its expression, his manners,
plain, easy and undemonstrative.
I listened most eagerly to this description, for I
had not been unaware on my progress westward of
the increasing enthusiasm over our Whig candidate
in every town and village, an enthusiasm which, I
am convinced, would astound both Democrats and
Whigs in our Eastern states.
As we approached Lawrenceburg, Ind., the home
of Mr. Dunn," that gentleman suggested that I go
ashore with him during the period in which freight
'George H. Dunn (1797-1854), born in New York, came to Dear-
born County in 1817. Member of the Legislature in 1828-1832.
Member of Congress, 1837-1839. State treasurer from 1841 to 1844.
He and Governor Bigger revised the code of Indiana and later he
served as judge of the Circuit Court.— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 43
was being taken aboard and view the town and the
Whitewater Canal, of which the people were so
justly proud. Lawrenceburg, situated in Dearborn
County, occupies a position in a broad expanse of
most fertile bottom lands, back of which there arises
a ridge and range of hills towering perhaps 100
feet above the valley, from which is presented a
picture most grand to behold, the broad and ex-
tended bottoms coursed by the Great Miami, the
town with its graceful spires pointing heavenward,
the majestic Ohio flowing beneath the towering Ken-
tucky hills. The town was laid out in 1822, and
at one time was the seat of justice of Dearborn
County, which honor was transferred in 1836 to
Wilmington.^
The soil of the county is a rich loam, very produc-
tive, and corn and pork are largely exported.
While the river, I was told, frequently overflows,
driving the inhabitants out of their houses or to the
upper story, this period of the flood, from ancient
custom and from the suspension of all customary
pursuits, has become a time of carnival. The floods,
instead of creating disease, wash the surface of the
earth and are supposed to be rather conducive to
health than otherwise.
At the present time the chief interest of the town
is the Whitewater Canal. In January, 1836, when
the news came that the internal improvement bill
had passed the Indiana General Assembly, a great
* Those who desired a division of Dearborn County moved the
county seat in 1836 to Wilmington. In 1843 the county was divided
and Ohio County organized, and Lawrenceburg again became the
county seat of Dearborn County. — Editor.
44 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
celebration was held in Brookville, between wbicii
town and Lawrenceburg tlie first construction was
to be made, with speakings, illuminations, ringing
of bells, roarings of cannon, bands of music; and
again in September, when the ceremony of ** break-
ing ground" was held, with a barbecue and a speech
by' Governor Noble. Mr. Dunn spoke here, he in-
formed me, and the editor of a Richmond paper
gave an original verse:
There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet
As that vale where the branches of Whitewater meet;
Oh! The last picayune shall depart from my fob
Ere the east and the west forks relinquish the job.*
The first boat to reach Brookville and Lawrence-
burg was the Ben Franklin, which arrived June 8,
1839.
Mr. Dunn gave his carpet bag to a negro boy and
together we strolled about the streets.
The first brick house was erected in the city by
Dr. Jabez Percival. It is a substantial two-story
building with walls three feet thick. The Hunt
Tavern was the first three-story brick building in
the state, a matter of pride with the people of
Lawrenceburg. Of particular interest to me were
the Miami Mills, whose brand of flour has become
noted for its excellence, not only in the United
States, but in the West Indian Islands and South
American ports. It is said it will remain sweet for
months in tropical climates, while other brands sour.
Viewing these many interests and the canal pro-
viding a channel for business from the interior, I
* John Finley in the Richmond Palladium. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 45
am convinced, with Mr. Dunn, that Lawrenceburg,
with its many interests and advantageous location,
is destined to great commercial supremacy.
As we passed along the streets, Mr. Dunn fre-
quently paused to greet his fellow citizens and to
present me to them as a stranger from the East
making a tour of the state. One of them, a rather
portly gentleman, on learning that I had been in
Washington, inquired at once if I were acquainted
with John Quincy Adams. ''Those who know us
both," said he, ''assure me that for form, size,
features and complexion, I strongly resemble that
*old man eloquent' and children often call his por-
trait 'Judge Cotton.'^ Another resemblance," he
added, "we both poetize readily when aroused by
any particular emotion, and if similar circumstances
had surrounded both, who knows — ?"
As we passed on Mr. Dunn informed me that
this rather eccentric old gentleman had the habit of
poetizing on religious, temperance and political
topics, and also on various happenings in the
county, and when we entered his office a few mo-
ments later, he showed me some of these effusions.
One written on Andrew Jackson, in 1832, ran:
The hero of Orleans has once been elected
To preside o'er the Union, and more than expected —
Ability and skill he has clearly displayed
Yes, even to those who him President made.
■The Judge Cotton of this meeting published in 1858 a collection
of these poems with a short autobiographical sketch and a brief
history of the early settlements of Dearborn County, called "Cotton's
Keepsake," now much sought after by those interested in the state's
early history. — Editor.
46 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Let Clay and the bank against him conspire,
They can't put him down nor raise him much higher;
Let us he independent, keep our money at home,
Re-elect Andrew Jackson and let aliens roam.
Among others, I met Mr. Gregg, publisher of the
Political Beacon, a most zealous AVhig; Dr. Robert
Gillespie, a Scotchman, graduate of the University
of Edinburgh and a leading physician of this
locality; Ebenezer Dumont, a most promising young
lawyer, so Mr. Dunn informed me, *'an organizing
genius," said he, 'Svith fertility of expedient and
sleepless mental activity." This young man, learn-
ing that I was going to Vevay, gave me a letter to
his mother, Mrs. Julia L. Dumont, a well-known edu-
cator and widely famed in the East as a writer of
both prose and verse. So many did I meet that
of the remainder only a few names remain in
my memory, Tousey, Tait, Dunn, Sparks, Burk-
ham; many of them suggesting Southern antece-
dents.
The warning whistle recalled me ere I was nearly
through with my sightseeing, and bidding a hasty
farewell to Mr. Dunn, whom I had come to esteem
most highly during our too brief acquaintance, I
made haste to return to the steamboat.
There was still the usual concourse of passengers,
for while some had left the boat others had come
on board, and in clianging groups we chatted on the
various subjects of the day. My attention was
called to Rising Sun, a village near Lawrenceburg
whose location, on high bottom land, is particularly
beautiful, set as it is among primeval forest trees —
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 47
gigantic sycamores, wide spreading elms, and grace-
ful beeches.
The next small village to which my attention was
called was Patriot, whose principal families I was
assured by a member of the Universalist Church
whom I had encountered on the boat, a follower of
Erasmus Manford, he informed me, who at this
very time was making a tour of Indiana, were of the
liberal faith, excellent people and practical Chris-
tians.
They loved the truth, said he, loved to talk about
it, and loved to attend services at the sanctuary.
That place, he declared, was an oasis in the desert
— no controversy, no denunciation, but peace, love
and harmony combined.
Though reared strictly within the tenets of the
established church I have acquired, I flatter myself,
considerable broadness of view on religious matters
at the University, stamped as it is mth Jefferson's
broadness of view, so that I listened at this follower
of a new faith with considerable interest, realizing,
however, with what horror such expressions would
be heard by my friend the circuit rider.
A gentleman from this town here left the boat
after bidding me farewell, a Mr. Daniel H. Howe.^
He had been most obliging in pointing out various
interesting features of the country to me on the
voyage down, among others mentioning the Rising
Sun Insurance Company for marine, fire and flat-
boat insurance, which struck me as an interesting
novelty. He urged me at parting, should I make a
®The father of Judge Daniel Wait Howe of Indianapolis. — Editor.
48 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
return voyage up the river, to stop off at Patriot
and during my stay there make his house my
iiome.
As the Universalist turned away, I observed Mrs.
Buford and Miss Hunter sitting near the rail, Mrs.
Buford idle, as usual, and Miss Hunter engaged in
a species of handiwork which, I learned, upon in-
quiry, was a *'rachel," a convenient sort of head-
gear made of soft yarn, very elastic and partaking
of the various natures of cap, bonnet, and hood.
This article was of the shade of the blush rose which
tinted her rounded cheek, and will, I feel assured,
be most becoming to its wearer.
The moment seemed propitious, since their almost
constant attendants, Bulleit, Letcher and Buford,
;were absent, to announce my plans. Mr. Hicklin,
the circuit rider, had suggested to me that instead
of continuing on the boat to Madison, as first
planned, that I leave it with him at Vevay, visit that
town, and proceed on horseback along the river road
to Madison, which method of travel would give me a
better idea of the country, the road now winding
through forest, now emerging into the open and
more cultivated country, and giving me my first
opportunity of seeing the manners and hearing the
idioms of the ignoble and vulgar.
Madison, he assured me, was well worth a stay of
some days, being an old town and a seat of culture,
and while there he besought me to make his house
my home.
''Oh, then, sir," cried Mrs. Buford, *'if you are
to leave us so soon, you must write in our albums.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA" IN 1840 49
We spoke of it the other day. I'll run to bring mine
and yours, Caroline. Mr. Letcher and Mr. Bulleit
inscribed their names this morning while you were
viewing Lawrenceburg. "
*' Affection's Gift" was the title inscribed on the
blue and gilt morocco covered volume which bore
Miss Caroline's name, and ''The Laurel Wreath'*
in red and gilt was Mrs. Buford's volume.
As I suspected, Mrs. Buford's volume was filled
with ardent sentiments, either original or ''se-
lected," from admiring swains who had evidently
laid their hearts at the feet of Miss Jane Hunter;
Miss Caroline's with sentimental verses from young
females, her schoolmates, though an occasional
Thomas or Charles indicated the possession of ad-
mirers, who, however, addressed her in a much more
delicate and formal manner than did the admirers
of the less reserved Mrs. Buford.
Buford, who had come on deck,' laughed as he
looked over my shoulder.
"Females are naturally sentimental," said he. "I
consider such a request a mere bait for flattery."
"Not at all," cried his wife. "I can not help what
they write — I could not help it, I mean, but what I
want is just something to remember them by, the
handwriting, the name — "
"A mental daguerreotype," said the shy Miss
Caroline, blushing as she spoke.
If this was to be my mental daguerreotype — I took
thought as I sought the cabin of the steamer where
were ink and pen. I too, though I had not confessed
it, like the old Judge Cotton, occasionally "poetize"
50 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
under stress of emotion. If this was to be my men-
tal image, what should I reveal? Slowly I dipped
quill into ink and wrote.
CONSTANCY
(To Miss Hunter)
As to the distant moon
The sea forever yearns,
As to the polar star
The earth forever turns;
So does my constant heart
Beat but for thee alone,
And o'er its far-off heaven of dreams
Thine image high enthrone.
But, ah ! the moon and sea,
The earth and star meet never ;
And space as deep and dark and wide
Divideth us forever.
I managed to put the book into her hands when
she was alone.
**One promise I exact," I said; ''that you do not
read my lines until I have left the boat at Vevay.
You will?"
"I promise," she said, almost inaudibly and,
blushing deeply, slipped away toward her state-
room.
Our parting was commonplace enough, taking
place as it did in broad daylight, on deck, in the
midst of the crowd.
"Our lines may cross again," said Buford cheer-
fully. "We are thinking of prolonging our stay in
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 51
the North and making several visits. Our first
stop will be with Caroline at her home in New
Albany. ' '
Miss Hunter said nothing. Her little hand quiv-
ered as I held it in mine for a moment, but I could
not see her eyes for the long lashes resting on her
cheek. New Albany! I shall visit that town.
The village of Vevay is on a beautiful site. The
river has a majestic curve, and the level plateau on
the shore corresponds to its semi-circular sweep,
while around its periphery stand, like guardian sen-
tinels, a range of noble hills. The object of the col-
ony was to find a place in the New World for rais-
ing the grape, and vineyards were soon set out in
the wilderness. The wine made from these vines,
dressed and trimmed according to the Swiss man-
ner, is said to be of the very best, and superior to
the claret of Bordeaux. The names of the inhabi-
tants indicate their Swiss origin, Dufour, More-
rod, Thiebaud, and the old Swiss customs are still
preserved. These people, I am informed, are very
energetic, and brought with them a healthy disposi-
tion to enjoy life so that their homes present a
marked difference to those of other river towns.
The houses are well built of brick or wood stoutly
finished, no log cabins or slightly built wooden
houses, they are set in acre lots with fruit trees,
grape vines on ornamental arbors, flowering shrubs,
beds of flowers, climbing rose bushes and honey-
suckles, and all displaying scrupulous cleanliness
and exquisite neatness. Some of these homes I vis-
52 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ited, and to another, altogether different and equally
interesting I went with a letter given me by Mr.
Dunn to Mr. Joseph Gary Eggleston/
This was a two-story brick house in a square of
ground about an acre in extent, or perhaps a little
more, planted in fruit trees, grape vines and the like.
The office (Mr. Eggleston was a lawyer) was a small
brick structure on the grounds a little way from the
house. The house had a little porch and a beautiful
doorway leading into a hall whose graceful winding
stairway at once struck the eye. I found Mr.
Eggleston at home, and his already warm greeting
increased in cordiality when he found that I, like
himself, was a Virginian. He was the son of an
old planter family, his father a captain in Wash-
ington's army, and he had taken his degree in arts
at William and Mary College and had studied law
in Judge Tucker's school at Winchester. He had
sought the West to see what use he could make of
his natural and acquired gifts in a region then the
promised land to young men of character. He has
a fine library, among whose books I noted Gibbon's
miscellaneous works. My chat was a most enjoy-
able one ; he told me much of the Wabash country,
and at parting gave me a letter to his cousin. Judge
Miles Gary Eggleston of Brookville, said to be the
most famous judge that ever held court in the
state.
I next turned my steps toward the home of Mrs.
'Father of Edward Eggleaton, author of "The Hoosier School-
master etc. and of George Gary Eggleston, author of «A Rebel's
Recollectiona," "Recollections of a Varied Life," etc.-Editor
THE EGGLESTON HOMESTEAD, VEVAY
From a drawing by Wilbur Briant Shook
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 53
Julia C. Dumont,^ bearing the letter which her son
Ebenezer had given me.
I found Mrs. Dumont at her home, rocking in a
chair, a little cape around her shoulders, talking
rapidly and enthusiastically to the group of pupils
before her on some plan for a debating society. The
hour was late and yet the pupils lingered without a
thought of time. The affection and veneration in
which she was held by them was evident on every
face.
She quickly dismissed them on my arrival and,
smiling as she perused her son's letter, she asked
me to tell her of my journey from the East. For-
getful of the hour, we sat in the gathering twilight,
as she told me of her early experiences in the wil-
derness, of the school she had started for the benefit
of her own children and because she loved to teach,
and of the celebrated litterateurs who had come
from Cincinnati, and even Philadelphia, to visit
her.
Returning to the inn, I sought my couch early, and
the next morning the circuit rider and I were on
our way, on horseback, along the river road to Mad-
ison.
* Mrs. Julia C. Dumont, the first Indiana poet whose work haa
been preserved, was the daughter of Ebenezer and Martha D. Corey
of Rhode Island. She was born in 1794, and her early life was
spent in Greenfield, N. Y. In 1812 she was married to John Dumont
and removed with him to Indiana territory, where she entered upon
that heroic struggle in behalf of education and culture that has
wedded her name to the history of the educational movement in
Indiana. Mrs. Dumont wrote with equal facility in prose and verse,
and Eastern publishers were always ready to pay her liberally for
her productions. — Editor.
54 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Space is lacking to give details of tlie journey, but
I do not need to set it down; it is forever imprinted
on the tablets of my memory. The air was soft and
warm and heavy with the perfume of the wild plum
and the hawthorn. The giant trees, sycamore, elm
and beech, interspersed with black walnut, hickory
and sugar maple, towered aloft, overgrown with a
tangle of wild grape vines. Willows edged the banks
of the river and the small streams that often crossed
our path. Here and there a group of tall pecans
reared their heads heavenward. The pawpaw and
the persimmon were familiar to me, and the circuit
rider, to w^hom the woods were as an open book, oft
perused, enumerated long lists of plants and shrubs
growing indigenously in the country, the Indian tur-
nip, the trumpet vine, Solomon's seal, horse weed,
blue flag, mandrake, ginseng, and many others. The
Avoods were full of birds, the robin, the red-headed
woodpecker, the black bird, the blue jay, and, most
interesting to me, the paroquet in great numbers, a
bird with a most brilliant and beautiful plumage but
a most discordant shrieking voice. Wild turkeys
and wild duck were abundant.
Enchanting glimpses of the river, full to its banks
and sparkling in the morning sun, came to us be-
tween rifts in the hills and breaks in the woods.
This road, so Mr. Hicklin informed me, was first
surveyed in 1799 by Capt. Ephraim Kinney, then
of Cincinnati.
The horses which Mr. Hicklin had hired were ex-
cellent, and we rode briskly, stopping for dinner at
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 55
a cabin, where they gave us a good dinner of fried
ham and eggs, biscuits and coffee. Everything be-
tokened a good housewife, a well-cooked meal, set
on a clean tablecloth and in order.
Then on again until we came in sight of Madison.
CHAPTER ly
Madison, Ia., May 21, 1840.
THE day I was to spend in Madison has
stretched itself into three, four and five, and
now that my plans are made for my departure
and my bags are packed for the morrow's journey,
I regret most deeply that I must leave this pleasant
abiding place.
From many points of view, Madison is one of the
most interesting towns I have as yet viewed, in its
beauty of location and natural surroundings, its
flourishing business conditions, and its prospects for
the future, to say nothing of the wholesouled hos-
pitality and cordiality, the culture and intelligence
of its citizens.
This is accounted for, I am told, by the fact that
such a new and growing town in such a new and
growing country is especially attractive to young
men, and for this reason Madison has had an influx
of men of talent and ability.
The early Madisonians, I was informed, were
men of rugged will, sturdy pioneers whom hard-
ship and danger never daunted, with whom to
conceive an enterprise was only esteemed the
56
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 57
preliminary step necessary to its accomplishment.
As Mr. Hicklin still insisted that I should consider
his house my home while in Madison, and I could
see that his hospitality was sincere, I accompanied
him thither on our arrival from Vevay to meet his
wife, a plain woman, but with beautiful hair, a dark
glossy brown, disposed in the Madonna style over
a high and well-shaped forehead. After her warm
hand-clasp and a look into her clear eyes, I felt no
atom of doubt as to my welcome, and when I looked
about the plain room, its rag carpets, its plain but
snowy curtains, its homely furnishings, the walls,
whose only adornments were the portrait of John
Wesley and the minister's framed certificate of or-
dination, the few precious books, ''Clark's Com-
mentaries," * ' Summerfield 's Sermons and Sketches
of Sermons," '' Bright 's Essay," "Doddridge's Rise
and Progress," I felt the glow of that altar fire by
whose radiance every homely article was trans-
formed and given grace and beauty. In short I
knew myself to be in a home where dwelt goodness
and mercy, and I could now clearly understand, as I
had been dimly understanding ever since my meet-
ing with the minister, why Gen. Harrison, though
not himself of that faith, could pay so heartfelt
and sincere a tribute as he had paid in the letter
I had seen, to the circuit rider of the western
woods.
Another sect, I was soon to learn, had also es-
tablished itself here and is making itself known by
its good works, the Baptists, one of whose most
58 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
prominent members, Elder Jesse Vawter/ died here
just two years ago.
Another member of this family, Col. John Vaw-
ter, laid out the town of Vernon and is a resident of
that town, and pastor of the Vernon Baptist Church.
As Vernon is the terminus of the railroad on which I
leave Madison to-morrow, and my plan is to remain
there for a season, I have letters to this gentleman,
who will acquaint me, I doubt not, with much I wish
to know.
Madison, which is the seat of justice of Jefferson
County (the county and town named for two of our
Presidents), is, at this writing, the most populous of
any other in the state. It is situated on the crown
of a horseshoe bend, at an elevation above the high-
est floods. It has about 4,000 inhabitants, is
handsomely laid out, the houses are principally of
brick and substantially built, and the streets are
wide, straight, handsomely graded, paved or mac-
adamized. It contains a court house, jail, market
house, two Presbyterian Churches, one Baptist, one
Episcopal, one Methodist Episcopal, one Methodist
Reformed, a banking house, a very tasty structure,
a savings institution, an insurance office, two iron
foundries, a paper mill, and a steam engine factory,
an oil mill, a steam grist and sawmill, and a boat
* Elder Jesse Vawter came to Indiana in 1806 and located on a
hill overlooking Madison from the north, naming his home Mount
Glad. He assisted in organizing the first Baptist Church in Jeffer-
Bon County. "He was without doubt one of the most pious men in
his day, and as a doctrinal, practical and experimental preacher, his
qualifications were far above mediocrity." From "History of Baptist
Denomination." Descendants of this pioneer family are scattered all
over Indiana. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 59
yard, at which a number of boats have been built,
about fifty stores and two hotels. It is bounded on
the north by a range of cultivated hills, 250 feet
above the river, from w^hich there is a beautiful view
commanding the river and the Kentucky shore op-
posite; but, beautiful as it is, I enjoy more looking
down upon the prospect of the city spread before me,
the pattern of the streets, delightfully shaded at this
season of the year, with umbrageous trees.
Of the citizens I met through the offices of Mr.
Hicklin, I must first record the name of Gen. Milton
A. Stapp,^ president of the Madison Savings Institu-
tion, whom I found a most interesting man. Stapp
was a Kentuckian, and an old Indian fighter, still
bearing a scar acquired at the battle of the Thames.
A\Tiile marching through Indiana in this Indian cam-
paign, he w^as so much impressed with its possibili-
ties that in 1816, the year in which it became a state,
he came to make Madison his home. He told me
with great pride of his drilling of the Madison
militia.
He is a man of about 47, has served in the Legis-
lature and Senate of the state, and has been Lieuten-
ant Governor. He is a fine-looking man, easy of
access, an active member of the Baptist organiza-
tion, in politics a AVhig. He is much interested in
the new railroad and has given me much valuable
information concerning it.
* Milton A. Stapp (1793-1869) argued for the building of the
Madison & Indianapolis Railroad before several sessions of the Legis-
lature, but without success until the internal improvement act was
passed Jan. 27, 1836, and work on the road was commenced by the
state soon after. The road was completed to Vernon June 6, 1839,
just a year before our traveler's visit. — Editor.
CO A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Because of Madison's location on the river, lie told
me, and the fact that it is a terminus of various state
roads, commodities can easily be sent from south
and east into the interior, to the capital of the state
and every interior town in fact, much more cheaply
and easily than from any other point of supply.
Then, all state products will drift by natural law
to Madison to be sent onward to the various parts of
the world by water, thus giving the town a monopoly
of the transportation system.
At Madison, it seems, are concentrated six im-
portant roads, one of them to Vincennes, on the
Wabash River, one hundred and forty miles above
its mouth; another, through Brownstown to Bloom-
ington, in the vicinity of which is seated Indiana
College, an institution which does credit to the state
by which it was established ; this road also continues
to Terre Haute, at the intersection of the Wabash
with the great National Road, distant from Indi-
anapolis seventy-five miles; another road extends
to Columbus, forty-four miles, and thence to Indi-
anapolis, making the total distance from Madison
eighty-five miles; another extends to Versailles,
the seat of justice of the adjoining county of
Ripley; another to Mt. Sterling, besides the river
roads to Vevay and others above and villages
below.
This being the case, Mr. Stapp has foreseen what
the railroad penetrating the interior would mean to
a city on that great highway, the river. By its
means, Madison, already of commercial importance,
AN OLD HOUSE AT MADISON
From a photograph
A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 61
would become one of the chief cities of the west—*
a gateway of commerce for the state.
Although only twenty-two miles have been built
at this writing, it is the intention to make the other
point of termination Lafayette, on the Wabash
Eiver, seat of justice of Tippecanoe County, thus
bisecting the state in a southeasterly and north-
westerly direction and passing through Indianapolis.
It will be, when completed, about 146 miles long,
and wdll traverse a country of great resources or
susceptible of being made so.
The details of the opening of the railroad I
learned through Jesse D. Bright, a young la^vyer
near my own age, whom I met most pleasantly on
the occasion of an evening party given at the home
of a Mr. Creagh.
The residence of this gentleman was near the
modest dwelling of Mr. Hicklin, and I had much
admired, in passing, the fine old mansion fronting
on a well-kept lawn shaded by majestic trees, behind
which lies an extensive garden, rich in fruits and
radiant with flowers. The charming atmosphere of
the interior was enhanced by the presence of two
daughters, delightful girls. The elder. Miss Nancy,
has blue eyes and blonde hair, a face of Grecian
contour, and exquisite fairness; the younger. Miss
Mary, is a pretty creature of about 16, with hazel
eyes, a soft voice and a light step. The mother,
Mrs. Creagh, I found, to my delight, a highly edu-
cated and accomplished woman, whose conversation
is rich in anecdotes of her personal experience. Sho
62 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
has a clear, broad brow, stamped with intellect.
Miss Mary, I soon learned, plays charmingly, and
the two sisters sang several duets for the company,
much to our entertainment. I requested during
the evening an old song, a very old one but a
favorite with me, ''The Last Link Is Broken,'* and
Miss Mary sang this for me deliciously and with
considerable science. These young ladies attend the
Young Ladies' Seminary,^ an institution which had
been pointed out to me the day before
This school, I was informed, presented a most
elaborate course of instruction comprising Arithme-
tic, Algebra, Geometry, Grammar, Composition,
Rhetoric, Latin, Greek and French, Natural Phi-
losophy, Chemistry, Astronomy, Geology, Physi-
ology, Intellectual and Moral Philosophy, the
Analogy of Natural and Revealed Religion, History,
Ancient and Modern, Vocal and Instrumental Music,
and Painting by Theorem.*
For the moment, on hearing the glib recital of this
ponderous curriculum from the rosebud lips of
Mistress Mary, ''my wonder grew, that one small
head should carry all she knew," but I was some-
what reassured after a glance at the small volumes
to which she called my attention, "Mrs. Lincoln's
Lectures on Botany," a thin volume entitled "Ele-
ments of History" and others not nearly so worn
by use as were the domestic tales of T. S. Arthur,
"The Madison Young Ladies' Seminary was built in 1838
Editor.
* The figure or flower was cut in stencil by the teacher, and traced
and colored by the pupil.— Editor,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 63
the popular novelist, several volumes of whose
works I had noted in the large and well-selected
library.
It was at this party that I met, as I have said
before, Mr. Jesse D. Bright.^
He was a tall, good looking young man of im-
perious manner, one destined, I was told by some of
his admirers, t.o become a leader among men. Being
almost of an age — for he is but a few years my
senior — we have found much in common, and he has
been my almost constant companion during my stay
here, and has introduced me to many of the most
agreeable people, Mr. Lanier,*' John R. Cravens, Mr.
Marshall, Michael Bright, brother of my friend, C. P.
J. Arion, John King, James McMillan, William H. '
Webb, E. J. Whitney, John Sering, and many
others.
Among the many interesting events of which he
told me, the most interesting to me was the story of
the building of the railroad. When the first seven-
teen miles of the road were completed to a village
called Graham, arrangements were made for a great
celebration and an invitational ride for some of the
grandees of the state, followed by a banquet. The
passengers, let me note, are carried up from the
toAvn to the railroad in an omnibus, but an inclined
'Jesse D. Bright (1812-1875) lawyer, able Democratic politician,
state senator, Lieutenant Governor in 1843, and later, United States
senator. — Editor.
* James F. D. Lanier, founder of Winslow, Lanier & Co., was at
one time a practicing lawyer in Madison and later president of the
Madison Branch Bank. He went to New York in 1848 to start the
banking house which bears his name.— Editor,
64 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
plane ^ is in process of construction — commenced in
1836 — by which the cars will be let down the incline
by gravity and hauled back by horses.
A locomotive for this railroad had been ordered
from Baldwin Company's works in Philadelphia, but
unfortunately it had been shipped on a vessel around
by New Orleans, and during a storm was thrown
overboard with other freight to save the ship. As
the invitations to the grandees had already been is-
sued when this news came, a locomotive, the Elkhorn,
was borrowed from Louisville, brought over on a
boat used to transport stone and dragged up the hill
by five yoke of oxen. The great event was a success.
The people gathered from far and wide to view the
sight, the Governor and important officials arrived
in due time, the trip was made, and on the party's
return a banquet was held in a building down by the
river, over which Mr. Bright was master of cere-
monies. He showed me one of the invitations, which
he is carefully preserving, and which reads as fol-
lows :
"Madison, Oct. 15, 1838.
"Sir—The Common Council of the city of Madison has
directed us to invite you to participate with them m a
festival to be given on the occasion of opening the re^^ular
trips of the cars on the Madison & Indianapolis Railroad.
'When the plane was completed the cars were let down the in-
toTno/ir'S ^"^ »^,^"l^<i b^^k with eight horses driven tandem
Jn^t •?' P'^'*''' "^ ^'^"^"^ ^" ^'^^SU and passenger cars
tT t,^r^^*y ^^^ r"^"''^ ™*^^ 1^80' ^t ^hich time c!l. Johu
Lt S-'^^^^J'.f^Pe/^^tendent of the Jeffersonville, Madison & In-
danapohs Railroad, issued orders requiring the hill engine to be
attached in the rear of all cars coming down and going up the i^!
clme. This order is still effective—Editor ^ ^ ^
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 65
The hospitalities of the citizens of the city will be tendered
to you on Monday of the 26th of November next. On
Tuesday the celebration will take place, and on Wednes-
day you will be taken on the cars to Vernon on your way
to Indianapolis. Arrangements will be made to convey
you from Vernon to Indianapolis if necessary.
* ' Milton Stapp, J. F. D, Lanier, C. P. J. Arion, Jesse D.
Bright, John King, Committee. ' '
Mr. Bright, I soon learned, was an ardent Demo-
crat, and when I heard his views on the coming
election I began to wonder if, after all. Gen. Har-
rison was so likely to be elected as I had supposed.
*'True,'' said he, *'the Whigs are noisy and con-
spicuous ; the tocsin has been sounded and they are
daily girding on their armor, preparing for the con-
flict, but they do not realize the strength of their
foe." Taking up a copy of the Madison Courier of
recent date, he read me a long editorial, concluding
with, "Let us leave the subject for the present with
a firm reliance that the people of the State of Indi-
ana and of the Union at large will never place an
individual at the head of the affairs of the only re-
publican government upon earth, that has and still
entertains sentiments so diametrically opposed to
the universal spirit of freedom that pervades every
American heart."
As he concluded, most impressively, a sound at-
tracted my attention (we were sitting in his office),
and I turned to see standing in the doorway a most
unusual man, over six feet high, ungainly, with a
large head covered with a mop of sandy hair. He
was carelessly dressed, his stock bow awry, his
66 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
trousers twisted, but there was that in his face and
bearing that bespoke the man of power. He smiled
rather scornfully.
''Faugh, Bright, you know as well as I that Gen.
Jackson turned the ship of state out of her course
and Mr. Van Buren has kept on. He has been ad-
monished of danger, been told by several good old
pilots that he would run the ship aground or drive
her on the breakers, where she would be ship-
wrecked, but he seems to fear no evil and to listen
to no counsel. Thus the country suffers. Business
is nearly suspended, confidence is destroyed, and
will never be restored until Gen. Harrison is elected.
But stay" — he silenced Bright with a gesture — ''I
did not come for this ; we can talk politics any day.
I wish to meet your young friend, of whom I have
heard much."
This was Joseph Glass Marshall.^
For some time, he sat and chatted with us on
various subjects. Among other things he related to
me the story of Daniel Webster's visit to Madison
in 1839, on which occasion he made the welcoming
speech. A Mr. George Robinson, an orator, editor
and lawyer, who was present, after hearing the
speeches, went to his office, wrote both speeches out
from memory, and returning, laid them before the
speakers. Both pronounced them exact, word for
word, a most remarkable performance.
On the same evening, in company with Mr. Bright,
"Joseph G. Marshall born 1800, came to Madison in 1828. As a
lawyer he stood among the very first in the state; his ability to
present his^ facts m the strongest possible manner was excelled by
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 67
I called at the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Creagh and
together with the young ladies we sallied forth to
Paul's Spring, a pleasure resort. This Col. Paul,®
I was told, was the founder of Madison.
The spring known as Paul's Spring, to which we
now bent our steps, is in the heart of the city. Here,
in 1812, a pleasure resort was established, with
rustic seats of he^\Ti logs disposed about the
grounds. Here, I was told, the pioneers indulged in
dances on the green and wrestling bouts with the
Indian braves. Every evening, in pleasant weather,
the population of Madison gathered at Paul's
Spring.
The young ladies were most charmingly attired
for this occasion. Miss Nancy, who walked with
Mr. Bright, wore a gown of violet satin with the
skirt immensely full, trimmed with lace, the whole
veiled by a long lace mantle. Miss Mary's simple
frock was almost covered by a pardessus of muslin
lined with straw colored silk and enriched with rich
descriptions of laces. Under her bonnet rim were
tucked clusters of violets and rosebuds. I felt my-
self quite equal to the occasion, for I had dressed
myself with care in my frock coat of broAvn, with
high rolling velvet collar, and vest of light buff, with
striped pantaloons.
"Col. John Paul (1758-1830) bought the site of Madison in 1808;
founded Madison in 1810; was a volunteer colonel in the War of
1812. His home, the second brick house in Madison, is a two-story
house on the second bank of the river. Mindful of the difficulty he
had in making a landing, cutting liis way through vine-tangled
thickets of willow, sycamore and cottonwood, he cleared the trees
from the terrace reaching from his front door to the river, making
a lawn 400 x 600 feet before his house. He piped water through
hollow logs to his house from a spring two miles distant. — Editor.
68 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
'Twas a beautiful night, moon lighted, the breezes
soft and warm, and we sat for some time on the
benches, watching the people passing to and fro and
the gambols of the children. We talked of songs
and of books. Miss Mary had, just that day, she in-
formed me, been perusing ''The Laurel Wreath,''
a gift book, whose contributors are among our most
eminent writers, and which is recommended as a
model of literary excellence as well as moral instruc-
tion. She plays the guitar, too, she confesses.
Mr. Bright was in high spirits, he confessed, as we
strolled homeward, having parted from the young
ladies, feeling the witchery of the moon. He
hummed a serenade, then much in vogue —
Underneath thy lattice, love, at even,
When the village clock is tolling seven,
And the stars are gleaming in the heaven,
Thou wilt hear my light guitar.
Tra-le ra le ra la la la
Tra-la le ra la la la !
'Tis true she is charming, and so are many of the
others whom I met at the evening party, but I must
confess that since meeting one all others, howe'er
fair, seem insipid. Ah, well !
Much impressed with the city, which I learn is
soon to be visited by Eastern architects who will
erect handsome residences for some of the town's
wealthy citizens, I desired much to view the adjacent
country and learn something of the price of farming
lands. Since it is my purpose eventually to pur-
chase land in this state, I intend making careful in-
A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 69
quiry into prices and quality of land and market
facilities in each locality I visit.
In company with Mr. Bright I rode horseback one
fine May morning out to Wirt, a village a few miles
from Madison settled by the "Iron Jacket" Bap-
tists, among them John Burns and wife and James
Burns and wife, to call on this same Capt. James
Burns ^° who, I was told, was the owner of several
farms and could give me much of the information
I desired.
Wirt was named by Capt. Burns for William Wirt
of Virginia, his native state, which he left early in
life to come out to Kentucky and thence to Ohio,
where he was one of the militia of Ohio who kept
guard along the river at the time of Aaron Burr's
flight to intercept and capture him. He came down
to Madison on a flatboat in 1814.
Capt. Burns 's home is a large frame house with
two front doors, pleasantly situated on a hillside,
among forest trees, and was of particular interest to
the entire countryside at that time because in its
spacious kitchen stood the first iron cook stove in
the community. Capt. Burns drove me out through
the country,^^ showing me the farms, giving prices
and regaling me with many interesting anecdotes
from his varied experience.
Across the road from Captain Burns 's house was
a graveyard in which Mrs. Burns told me I would
find the grave of her father. Elder Jesse Vawter,
" Grandfather of Judge Harrison Burns of Indianapolis. — Editor.
" It is a matter of regret that our diarisfe neglected to record
the prices of this farming land. — Editor.
70 A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840
whom I mentioned early in this diary as a promi-
nent Baptist minister. I copied the inscription on
the stone for my father, to prove that, after all,
Indiana is not so new a country. The lines run,
"In Memory of Elder Jesse Vawter, who departed this
hfe March 20, 1838, aged 82 years, 3 months, 20 days.
He lived in the state of Indiana 32 years. He left sur-
viving him 4 sons and 4 daughters, 71 grand- and 54
great-grandchildren. ' '
Another drive of interest which I took in company
with Mr. Marshall had for its object the college at
Hanover, founded in 1827 by the old-school Presby-
terians of Salem (la.) Presbytery. The road to this
institution winds pleasantly along the river and to
the college up the face of the river bluffs by gentle
grades and easy curves, from which elevation the
scene is of most impressive beauty. I had the
pleasure of meeting the president, the Rev. Erasmus
D. McMaster, D. D., who informed me that during
this collegiate year, which would end in September,
the whole number attending was 105 students, of
whom five were candidates for the degree of
Bachelor of Arts. Mr. Marshall told me much of
the Union Literary Society and presented me to
several of the members, among whom I remember
most distinctly a Mr. Thomas A. Hendricks of Madi-
son, a most charming young fellow, now in his
junior year.
To-day being my last in the city, I made a visit
to the boat yard, one of the flourishing industries
ot Madison, and made note of many points in the
construction of the steam boat and of its business.
TOMBSTONE OF JESSE VAWTER
At N)^irt, a few miles north of Madison
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 71
The steam boats on the western waters, it seems,
are all what is termed "high pressure" and are con-
structed very differently from those on the Atlantic
waters, with which I am somewhat familiar. The
cylinders are generally in a horizontal position.
The lower deck, on which is the engine and ma-
chinery, all open, is appropriated for some freight,
fuel and deck passengers, but the bulk of the freight
is carried in the hold. On the upper deck, extend-
ing nearly the whole length of the boat, except a
small portion forward, is the upper or dining
cabin, but the details of this part of the boat I
have set down earlier in my diary. What inter-
ested me here was what I learned of the life of a
boat. It is not of long duration. In three or four
years it is generally *'used up." But they are in-
dustrious when afloat, running on an average about
180 days in a year. Their consumption of fuel
varies somewhat in proportion to their tonnage ; be-
cause some boats of the same number of tons con-
sume more than others for this reason, they have
more boilers. A boat of 100 tons will consume
about eighteen cords of wood in twenty-four hours.
The price of this wood in Ohio is $2.50 a ton.
The monthly wages of a captain or commander
are $150 a month; of a pilot, $140; of an engineer,
$125 ; of a clerk, $50, and of a fireman, $25.
I was informed that the price of voyaging is
higher by at least 25 per cent than last year, in
consequence, say the parties interested, of the ad-
vance of wages and the high price of provisions, and
when their tables do not present as plentiful a sup-
72 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ply and as great variety the same reason is assigned,
**tlie high price of provisions will not permit it.'*
The hour is late, my candle burns low, and as I
depart in the morning, and the cars leave the depot
at 9 0 'clock, I must now seek my couch.
CHAPTER V
Vernon, June 2, 1840.
1WAS accompanied to the omnibus which carries
the passengers from the town up to the station
at the top of the hill on the morning of my de-
parture from Madison by Mr. Hicklin and Mr.
Bright, who bade me farewell and gave me into the
care of John G. Sering, who was acting as Station
Agent in behalf of the state. The duties of this
office require him to be on the train each trip, and
see that all the passengers and freight are duly
entered on the Way Bill and a copy of the same kept
on file for the use of the state. This bill, which Mr.
Sering permitted me to examine, gives the pas-
senger's name, the number of seats occupied by him
and his family, if so accompanied, his extra baggage,
his home, his destination, and the sum paid for his
fare. Our passengers numbered twelve on this trip,
stopping at various stations on the route, and the
sum collected from them was $7.75.
I previously had met several of the gentlemen on
the train, among them Mr. Cravens and Mr. Sims,
who were making the journey together, and they
showed themselves most agreeable in pointing out
to me various localities of interest along the line of
the railroad. A remark to Mr. Cravens concerning
my journey to a new country indicated that he con-
73
74 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
sidered tliis country no longer new and he talked
to me most interestingly of tlie classes of settlers
who sought it in earlier days.
"There are three classes in the Western settle-
ments," said he, "which, like the waves of the ocean,
have rolled in one after the other. First comes the
pioneer, who makes a small clearing and builds a
rude cabin in the primeval forest. The next class
comes in, purchases the land of the pioneer, who
pushes on to more distant primeval forests, and adds
field to field, builds roads, bridges, schoolhouses and
leads a plain, frugal but civilized life.
' ' The next class is composed of men of capital and
enterprise, under whose leadership the small village
rises to a spacious town or city, adorned with sub-
stantial edifices of brick." This third wave, he in-
formed me in conclusion, is now sweeping over large
districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri.
In pleasant conversation on topics connected with
the country and political affairs, the time passed
very rapidly, and by noon I found myself in Vernon.
The approach of this town is most interesting, as the
county, named after Jonathan Jennings, the state's
first Governor, is traversed by creeks, whose borders
are broken, the hills interspersed with rich alluvial
valleys and high tablelands or "flats."
The north and west forks of the Muscattatuck,
quite a large and beautiful stream, unite with the
south fork here at Vernon, curving like an encircling
arm around the little village and shutting it in on
three sides.
Having sought the tavern on my arrival and there
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 75
procured, I must confess, an indifferent dinner of
the ham, eggs, biscuit and coffee, which seems to
be the universal bill of fare at country cabin and
village caravansary in the western country, I walked
about over the town on a voyage of discovery.
Vernon is a post town and seat of justice and its
location on the state road, and the fact that it is at
present a post road, insures it an increasingly pros-
perous future/
It was court week, I learned from the proprietor
of the tavern, a time when all the people, old and
young, men and women, assemble at the county
seat. The chairs before the tavern front were all
occupied by men who, tilted back against the wall
under the grateful shadow of the overhanging bal-
cony, exchanged stories and viewed the changing
crowd in evident satisfaction. To the hitching racks
around the Court House lawn were tied the horses
of the country people, whose women, in gay calicoes
and flower-wreathed bonnets, often piloting a little
family, crowded the stores. Farm products were
being unloaded, freight that had been brought in on
the train, carried away from the depot to the various
mercantile stores, in short, the whole scene was one
of extreme liveliness and ceaseless activity.
The population of the town is now 350, 1 had been
told. Besides its large and elegant brick Court
House, whose lawn is shaded by tall forest trees', it
has a jail, a stray pound, and a clerk's office, two
taverns, two mercantile stores, a carding machine,
* Our diarist's prophecies are sadly incorrect as regards the future
of some of our early towns. — Editor.
76 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
two physicians, one lawyer, a minister, and a num-
ber of craftsmen of various trades.
As I liad been given letters by some of my Madi-
son friends to Dr. Ezra F. Peabody, I now sought
him out at his office, which I found to be situated on
the ground floor of a small building on the public
square, a large room with shelves on one side of
which were ranged large glass jars with gilt labels
indicating their contents, a great mortar and pestle
for the pulverizing and compounding of drugs, and
a pair of scales in which, at the moment of my en-
trance, the doctor was engaged in weighing out a
quantity of quinine. He is of a gaunt figure, and
speaks low, as I learned later, and w^ith great slow-
ness, but is full of easy and interesting talk.
''Enter, sir, and be seated," he said courteously,
and having perused my letter, **I am now engaged
in the compounding of pills for the cure of the ague,
the scourge of our new country. While it is now
not so severe as it was at the time of the first settle-
ment, when it was often so malignant that as many
as three or four deaths of adults occurred in one
family in less than forty-eight hours, the long and
severe chills followed by a burning fever still are
common and are frequently more than a match for
our skill. The form which afflicts the settlers along
the Wabash is known as the Wabash ague, and is
the most severe known." ^
As he talked, he proceeded with deft fingers to
pour the quinine on an inverted plate, mix it with
a small quantity of molasses into a thick dough, with
the aid of a spatula, cut portions of this into bits and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 77
roll them into pills, dusting tliem, at the last, with
flour.
Among many other things he told me that the
towTi of Vernon was founded in 1818 by Col. John
Vawter,^ now an elderly man, to whose home, near
by, he promised to take me as he started forth to
make his call. When founded, the proprietors made
a donation for the benefit of the county, which pro-
duced upwards of $5,000, by the avails of which the
Court House, which I had so much admired, was
erected, as well as the stray pound, the jail, and the
clerk's office, in which, he told me with pride, is a
library room with near 200 volumes of choice books.
After defraying all these expenses, the county still
has about $500 loaned out at interest.
Col. Vawter, he told me, like all the Vawters, is
a peculiar character, very stubborn, but good, honest
and dependable. He was once subpoenaed as a wit-
ness in two cases in which a well-known Irish lawyer
was engaged, in one, on the side in whose favor Col.
Vawter was to testify ; in the other, on the opposite
side. In summing up the first case, in which Col.
Vawter was his witness, the lawyer cried out:
''And who is this Col. John Vawter? He is the
marshal of the territory of Indiana, the founder of
Vernon, and the defender of the oppressed." In
the other case, the la"vvyer thus apostrophized him:
'Col. John Vawter, born in 1782, in Virginia; moved to Madison
in 1807; first magistrate of Madison; sheriff of Jefferson and Clark
Counties in 1810; United States marshal in Indian campaign, 1811-
1813; colonel of militia in county, 1817; pastor of Baptist Church
in Vernon, 1821-1848; in Legislature, 1831-1835; state Senate, 1836;
moved to Morgantown in 1848; died in 1862. — Editor.
78 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
''Who is this old John Vawter? He is the hireling
of the United States government, the nabob of
Vernon, and a secrater of nagers!"
The pills compounded and put in the pill box,
which found its place in the saddle bags, Dr. Pea-
body flung these over his arm and walked with me
out on to the square. As we walked towards Col.
Vawter's house, he told me two other facts of great
interest. One was that a large brick meeting house
had been erected at a common expense, in which the
several churches. Baptist, Methodist and Presby-
terian, convene, each one according to its appoint-
ment, the oldest having the preference; the other,
the Jennings County Academy, which was organized
in 1824 by Dr. Burt, the Rev. Daniel Lattimore, W.
A. Bullock, Alanson Andrews, the Rev. J. B. New
and Dr. Peabody, and he pointed out to me the two-
story brick building with two rooms and an outside
stairway. A superior class, surely, these citizens of
Vernon, so early to provide for education by means
of such a school and a library !
By good fortune, we found Col. Vawter at home,
and he received me with the utmost cordiality. As
he was just preparing to ride out to the home of
his brother, a few miles from Vernon, he invited me
first to take dinner with him, and then to accompany
him on his journey.
''There are two different kinds of timber land
in this county," he informed me, as we set forth
soon after dinner. ''The flats, as we denominate
them, are covered with large and tall timber, white
oak, beech, gum, soft maple, burr oak, hickory, and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 79
some other varieties, with a thick undergrowth in
many sections, interwoven with grapevines. The
second is the rolling land, where grow profusely the
white oak, the black oak, the beech, the sugar tree,
the linden, the ash, the black walnut, the white wal-
nut, the cherry and the poplar, with an undergrowth,
on the rich bottoms, of pawpaw and an occasional
large sassafras. On the bottom lands along the
streams, sycamore, hackberry, elm and buckeye,
flourish."
So he talked as we rode, pointing out splendid
specimens of the forest growth, and the feathered
denizens of the wood, as well, whose sweet song
smote the ear — this old man to whom the wood was
an open book, for, like his father before him, when-
ever he learned of a new settlement being founded,
he visited it, and held religious meetings there, some-
times blazing trees and breaking down underbrush
to mark his way through the wilderness.
On May 8, 1833, he told me, there was a killing
frost, still well remembered, because it had done
such damage to the timber in certain localities. On
the *'west flats," the beech grove was almost en-
tirely destroyed, and in other places, the tops of the
white oaks were killed. All the fruit was killed that
year except a few varieties of hardy apples.
The prosperity of the region was easily explained,
he said. In the rich alluvial bottoms, corn grew in
abundance, yielding ample harvests; wheat, oats,
buckwheat, hay and potatoes flourished, and there
was ample pasture for mules, horses and cattle.
The fruit I could judge for myself, for we passed
80 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
orchards of apple, peach and cherry trees, and the
borders of the woods were full of blackberry vines,
these berries, he said, being unusually fine and
plentiful in this locality.
A few miles along the pleasant country road, and
we came to the 200-acre farm of William Vawter,
who was a preacher as well as a farmer. The com-
fortable house had a pleasant situation on a hillside
above the road, and we spied the proprietor as we
approached, sitting on the porch. His old horse,
Farmer, the colonel called him, stood at the
hitching block— they had evidently just returned
home.
He greeted me cordially and called his wife, who,
he said, was engaged in making soap, and on my ex-
pressing an interest in the proceeding, she took me
around to the back of the house, where a young
woman was watching a bubbling mass in a great iron
kettle over a fire of chunks of wood. Nearby was
set a box of wood ashes, and she showed me how the
water draining through a hole in the bottom of this
box made the lye which, combined with the waste
fat from the kitchen, made a soft soap for house-
hold use, and also a fine hard soap of which she, had
great quantities improving with age, in the garret
of the house. She pointed out to me the flourishing
orchards, the two fine springs with which the place
was blessed, and her old horse, Fanny. She was a
woman of great intelligence, I soon discovered, and,
what I imagine is unusual among the women of the
countryside, a great reader. I noted later some
books on the table, among them one of the edifying
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 81
volumes of Mrs. Sigourney, as we went into the
room to our supper.
For to supper these hospitable people insisted that
we should stay, and we did full justice to the buck-
wheat cakes fried on a griddle over the fireplace, and
eaten swimming in fresh butter and sirup made that
same spring from the sugar trees in their grove.
As we rode home slowly in the gathering twilight
Col. Vawter, who, by the way, possesses a most en-
gaging and persuasive personality, broached a new
idea to me.
*'In a few days,'* said he, *'I am going to start
on a journey, and I should like much to have you for
a traveling companion." He then proceeded to tell
me that, being a most enthusiastic Whig, he had de-
termined to attend a monster Whig meeting to be
held at the place known as the Battle Ground, the
scene of Gen. Harrison's great victory over Te-
cumseh. This is to be a meeting of unbelievable
numbers and enthusiasm, he assured me, and it
would be the greatest of misfortunes for a visitor
from another state to fail to see it.
When I demurred at the distance, and mentioned
the fact that that point was included in my itinerary
later, he waved this aside with a ''Pooh! What, sir,
would the vacant Battle Ground amount to, com-
pared with a sight of it crowded with troops of men,
all followers of our candidate?" and with some of
that ''stubbornness" which Dr. Peabody had as-
sured me was a characteristic of the Vawters, pro-
ceeded to arrange our plans as though I had already
consented.
82 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
*'Tlie distance is nothing, sir," lie declared. **I
could ride it in a day, but, an old preacher, you
know" — and his eye twinkled — ''inclines to stop here
and there. It may be a wedding he is wanted for,
or a funeral to be preached, or some old friends
met unexpectedly, so it will be well for us to start in
time and give ourselves two or three days at the
farthest.
"Horseback will be the better way," he replied
to my next question. "I think, sir, that I am cor-
rect in asserting that travelers through the interior
of our state find that the most convenient, sure,
economical and independent mode of travel. Their
own convenience and pleasure as to time and place
can always be consulted, and were time alone to be
considered, we should probably do better on horse-
back, for the statements of stage, steamboat and
canal boat agents are notoriously uncertain. More-
over, even this late in the season, the stage coach is
like to become mired, or overturned, and, finally, 'tis
a hopeless task to undertake to convince an old
preacher against his will! And I myself can and
will provide you, my dear young sir, with a most
excellent beast."
Col. Vawter then proceeded to tell me for how
long a time he had been a staunch Whig and follower
of Harrison. When Gen. Harrison was nominated
for the presidency in 1835, Col. Vawter called one of
the very first meetings in the interest of his candi-
dacy at Vernon. And the reason for this is worthy
tL'^'^li k\Z ''^^^^'"'^ ^^'^^ '^ '' ^«t known in
the East, that Clay never received the support of
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 83
the church people of Indiana, the Quakers, Baptists,
Presbyterians and Methodists, as they all, and
especially the preachers of these sects, were con-
tinually finding fault with his drunkenness, his
gambling, his profanity and other immoralities with
which he was charged. They charged that in every
question that arose during that quarter of a century,
Clay threw the weight of his influence against good
morals, and from him and such other characters as
Van Buren, Webster and Buchanan, these church
folk turned to look with hope to Gen. Harrison.
This, then, explained to me this old minister's en-
thusiasm. At the convention held in Indianapolis
on Dec. 14, 1835, he had called the convention to
order, giving it over then to a Mr. Clark, a relative
of the great George Rogers Clark.^
From that time, as this convention. Col. Vawter
assured me, was really a reunion of the veterans of
Tippecanoe, the feeling waxed warmer and warmer,
several papers carrying from 1835 to 1840 as a
motto the words, *' Uncompromising Hostility to the
Re-election of Martin Van Buren. ' '
By the time we reached Vernon I had decided in
my mind what he had already taken for granted,
that I would be his traveling companion on this
journey. I was, he declared, to remain in the town
several days as his guest, and then go with him to
Battle Ground, leaving my baggage behind me at
his home. I will confess that these days were in-
finitely delightful. At various times I rode in the
country with Col. Vawter, viewing the farm lands
^Marston G. Clark.— Editor.
84 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and inquiring as to their values, on one of these
occasions meeting Mr. Allen Campbell, who had oc-
cupied a farm near Vernon since 1817. In the town
I made the acquaintance, among others, of Thomas
J. Storey, who was in the war of 1812, and who had
come to Vernon as a house builder in 1820; Mr.
Smith Vawter, owner of one of the mercantile stores,
a peculiar and most interesting character; John
Walker, the recorder of the county; Simeon Robin-
son, who was a notary public; Mr. Baldwin, a mer-
chant, and a most interesting young man, a mem-
ber of the Christian Church, so he told me; Hick-
man New, a cabinet maker, whose father, Jethro
New, had come here from Delaware, through Ken-
tucky, in 1822. Another gentleman of the same
name, of whom I heard much, was the Rev. John B.
New, a highly esteemed minister of the Christian
Church, who had left Vernon only last year.
I spent some time roaming over the beautiful hills
about the town and along the banks of the Mus-
cattatuck, whose most picturesque spot I found to
be the Tunnel Mills, a place of great natural beauty,
where the hill is tunneled through in order to lead
water through from the Muscattatuck to provide mo-
tive power for the stone mill on the other side, a
tall and most imposing structure. This and the
graveyard, a peaceful spot on a hillside overlooking
the Muscattatuck, whose graves, overrun with
myrtle and shaded by trees, dark against the west-
ern sky, presented a picture on which I was never
tired of looking. After an excursion such as this,
.the words of the poet Horace constantly recurred
THE TUNNEL MILL AT VERNON
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 85
to me, when I thought of the town of Vernon, "Ule
terrarum mihi praeter omnes angulus ridet."*
''This little corner of the earth pleases me beyond
all others."
In this graveyard I found the graves of two
soldiers of the Revolution, born in Virginia.
I shall take neither the time nor the space to
record in detail our journey to Battle Ground, for
some of my steps I shall retrace later. Suffice it to
say that we passed through the town of Shelbyville
and Indianapolis, the capital of the state, over a
road known as the Michigan Road, on which we con-
tinued to travel for some little time after leaving the
latter city.^
I regretted much not being able to see this city,
but, arriving there after dark, we stayed the night
at a farm house on the outskirts and left at day-
break the next morning. However, my regret was
tempered by the thought that this city was included
in my itinerary and that I had planned a stay there
of some days, later on.
I found Col. Vawter a most entertaining com-
panion, a man of great energy of mind, very explicit
in his views, of much humor and excellent common
sense. As he prophesied, we did indeed tarry by the
wayside in the early part of our journey, for thia
and for that. We stopped at country inn and cabin,
*Our diarist evidently had a gentleman's knowledge of Latin. —
Editor.
* It i8 a matter of regret that Mr. Parsons failed to set down
this route. He might have taken one of several. It is highly
probable that Col. Vawter chose the more often used road through
the northern part of Boone County and through Crawfordaville. —
Editor.
86 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
sometimes with good, sometimes with bad fare and
lodgment, and at the end of our journey, my aged
companion, inured to the hardships of backwoods'
travel, showed, to my shame, far less fatigue than
did I. As for the rain which fell, almost continu-
ously, that only gave him food for exposition on the
greater safety in horseback travel over the stage
coach, in such weather.
His spirit was shared by the multitudes who
joined us at Indianapolis and farther along the way.
Thousands of them there were, some on horseback,
some on foot, those from Indianapolis carrying a
splendid banner presented them, on leaving, by the
ladies of that city. Some who joined us were in
wagons, in huge log cabins mounted on wheels, in
long canoes painted and decorated with party em-
blems. One group was preceded by a full rigged
ship, the Constitution, drawn by six white horses.
Among the men, so Col. Vawter told me, were
revolutionary soldiers, heroes of Fort Meigs, sur-
vivors of Tippecanoe. And it was my good fortune
to hear some of these last named describe the battle
—the attack, in the darkness that is greatest just be-
fore the dawn, the heavy firing, the loud voice of the
Prophet urging on his men, the charge, the repulse
of the enemy, their flight— the pursuit and the burn-
ing of the Prophet's town— as I heard these stories
from the lips of the heroes, my heart thrilled and I,
too caught the fire of enthusiasm for their cherished
leader !
Arriving finally at the battle ground, we sought
the elevated point of woodland said to have been the
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 87
site of Gen. Harrison's headquarters twenty-nine
years before, and discovered the whole woods and
the lower level of the prairie for a long distance to
be filled w^itli tents, wagons, flags, banners and
streamers, in the midst of which lay the plat of
ground encircled by a board fence, where rest the
bodies of those who fell in the great battle.
Among the countless attractions, the barbecue had
for me the greatest interest. In one great trench
were cooking whole carcasses of shoats, sheep and
oxen, dressed and spitted, with carvers continually
cutting and serving with their long sharp knives.
In another trench, burgoo, a rich and well-seasoned
soup of many ingredients, was boiling over a slow
fire. Three tables, each 100 yards long, were
heaped with the food, and with corn and wheaten
rolls, all this bounteous supply free to all who
came, and, again and again, the table company was
changed and the supply renewed until at last all
were filled.
Then, and not until then, did my friend Col.
Vawter mount the platform, and with his great
voice, rich and full, call the multitude together and
invoke the blessings of the Lord upon them, intrust-
ing the meeting then to Gen. Jonathan McCarthy.
Col. Vawter had already told me on our journey the
story of Spier Spencer and his Yellow Jackets and
when I saw the procession of the heroes of Tippe-
canoe who, clustered together, came forward at this
moment to the speakers' stand under the tattered
banner of that fallen hero brought hither for this
purpose, the tears sprang to my eyes.
88 A TOUR THROUaH INDIANA IN 1840
There were many speeches at this meeting, and
much singing, but more than the rounded periods of
Mr. Brooks and the other orators of the day, was
the sight of the people, from Michigan, Ohio, Illinois
and Kentucky, who had traveled through mud and
rain so long a distance to show their allegiance to
the hero of the West !
As we rode homeward, more rapidly this time,
our talk was all of the Whitewater Valley, toward
which I would next turn my steps.
m THi unm mmm
Ever If mati to his teni!^^
TO THE ^ BOYS OF
Are lo meet upon tlir R \ PTl L Uf f I) Ol J IPPE( A^OE on tht
29TH OF MAY,
To welcome the Old Soldiers once more to that scent- of sflory, where everlasting benefitB
were wrouglit in blood for Indiana?
■oiin.', thp p^r and pooror. (none can say rich now.) are already providing Iheir "br«ad and
n. I Do V ou knuw tKst thai one Ihine « hich ftw havo in theie Snb-Tri-nstiry liro«. will not
> will once more eDlist undtir thebaaoer of bim who is b«'io*cd br his old no
■, became be is lilerallj ' one of q»— one of the People— one who tills his own land— one posMiwed ol tnw
- parting nitb (he brsToliUle hand who fougbt
» old iwldicrs, and despised liy lAe
^polkd b." Socb is tbe^an. such Ibc daj and occaston Tor which we meet to£
ll6jttboi»OBlh«tdajT
rippecanoc Battk FwM. Who
ANNOUNCEMENT OF TIPPECANOE RALLY, 1840
From the original in the Indiana State Library
CHAPTER VI
Brookville, June 6, 1840.
1WAS sufficiently weary from my long horseback
ride to welcome the information that I could go
by stage coach from Vernon to Greensburg and
thence to Brookville, even though, as Col. Vawter
warned me, the vehicle was built more for hard
usage than for comfort, and that the roads were
frequently corduroy. That term at the time, hap-
pily, meant little to me, for we have few in Virginia,
and I have traveled over them only on horseback in
this state. The ** corduroy," I knew, is the settler's
way of making the mudhole passable. Ten-foot
rails are made of good timber, oak or ash, split wide
and laid close together across the grade with a little
soil thrown on the rails to level up and hold them in
place. Sometimes a full half mile of swampy road
is corduroyed, and I was soon to learn the sensation,
first of rapid travel along a comparatively smooth
stretch of level upland, a swift descent of a steep
hillside, then the indescribable bump, bump, bump
of the vehicle as the wheels leap jarringly from one
log to the next. Infinitely better than being mired,
no doubt, but I doubted many times on this journey,
whether it had not been wiser to keep to the horse,
for the roughest traveler I have ever bestrode has
90 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
never given me such a shaking and drubbing as I
received on this stage coach journey.
However, there is always some good to offset the
ill, as I long ago learned from my favorite Robinson
Crusoe, and on the stage coach I found several inter-
esting companions and learned much of the customs
of the country.
One sight that greatly astonished me, but which,
I was assured, was not an uncommon one, was a
large drove of hogs that was being driven to the
Cincinnati market. As I had already seen these
great pork-packing establishments in Cincinnati, I
was doubly interested in this, and was amazed when,
in the distance, I heard the sound of the approach-
ing army of porkers. Later, as we were drawn up
at an inn, I saw them pass by along the road. The
word '^army" rightly describes them, for there were
from two to three thousand in a drove, and ten days
or two weeks are required to drive them from this
part of the country to Cincinnati, according to the
conditions of the roads.
Falling into a conversation with a gentleman of
much dignity of carriage and intelligence of conver-
sation who I learned presently was Mr. Abram T*
Hendricks,^ a graduate of Hanover College, whicli
I had so lately visited, and at the present time the
prmcipal of the Greensburg Academy, I was given
much mformation by him concerning this "hos
army."
The weighing of them is a very slow and tedious
». \?^ "fS.^'^"" ^'■- Hendricks entered the ministry He was a
brother of Thomas A. Hendricks, Vice-President of the LitS S^es
TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 91
process. One hog is caught at a time, and put into
a pair of harness breeching, with steelyards hooked
into the big rings, and a lever attached to the steel-
yards to hoist the hog to be weighed. This process
is so tedious that many times whole droves are
''guessed off" without weighing. A good wagon
and team are always taken with the drove to haul
such hogs as may "give out," as they say, on the
road. The drove, as I observed for myself, extends
quite a distance, the best travelers in front, which
sometimes have to be held back, and the slow trav-
elers and ''heavies," as he expressed it, in the rear,
with a man at intervals, to keep them in bunches.
Some of these hogs, he said, are dangerous, wild
fellows.
Much cider is made in this country, Mr. Hendricks
informed me, so there has been no scarcity for the
"Hard Cider Campaign," a campaign he inter-
jected, "in which intemperance has become the
badge of a political party." I had become very
familiar with the barrels ; now I was to have pointed
out to me the cider presses. Many of the farmers
have their own crude presses, just as we have in
Virginia, a kind of lever press, the apples being
pounded or crushed with a wooden pestle or maul,
and the cider pressed out; but at one of our stop-
ping places, a poor house, and poor fare be it said,
was a cider mill and press, to which many farmers
came with their apples, themselves doing the work,
and paying the mill owner 10 cents per barrel for
the use of the mill and the press. As cider is an
essential ingredient of the popular "apple butter,"
92 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
as the only vinegar to be procured is formed from
tlie hard cider, and as every one drinks sweet cider,
the cider mill is a most important institution.
While we waited, I examined this mill with some
curiosity. It has wooden rollers, about twelve inches
in diameter and eighteen inches long, with large
grooves cut in them which fit into each other like
big cog wheels. A crooked pole makes the * ' sweep,"
the small end of which is fastened to the horse. A
hopper to put the apples in is fastened on the front
part of the mill, so they fall into the cogs of the
rollers as they turn around. A five or six-barrel
poplar trough is placed under the rollers to catch
the pomace. The heavy beams and posts are made
of oak, and my attention was called to the fact that
in this mill there is a great wooden screw, twelve
feet long and six inches in diameter, eight feet of
which has an inch thread cut in it, made of black
gum, the first ever made in this part of the country.
After the apples have been ground, they are
placed in a hoop, lined with clean, dampened wheat
straw and these hoops, like cheeses, are put in the
press, the weight applied by means of the screw.
On hot days, said Mr. Hendricks, bees and yellow
jackets are a terror to the cider maker, as they
swarm about the press to get the cider.
I was much entertained, as we rode, by a queer
character who very soon entered into conversation
with me, choosing me, I confess, because he sat fac-
ing me, and conversation seemed a necessity with
him. He was a minister, I was soon to learn, of
the Universalist denomination, but of an altogether
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 93
different type from the gentleman I had met on
the boat, and by whose conversation I had been so
greatly edified. This gentleman was stout and
slightly bald ; his stock was awry ; his clothes in need
of brushing; he talked in a loud complaining voice,
his theme partly the merits of a Brother Moore
whom he had recently heard discourse, and' partly
his disappointment over a journey he had recently
taken into Illinois. Brother Moore, he informed us,
*4s one of the brightest stars in the firmament of
our race, and will soon throw the coruscant beauties
of an intelligent mind upon the visions of listening
multitudes. He is about 21 years old," he continued
so persistently that any other conversation was im-
possible, "of wealthy and highly respectable parent-
age, and is now under the educational care of the
learned, pious, and devoted E. S. Wiley."
We had but left the miserable dinner at a more
miserable inn, when this minister burst forth upon
the fondness of many preachers for food. **What
goeth into the mouths of too many of our preach-
ers," he exclaimed, **are the things which defile the
man; for some are such huge eaters that they are
continually laboring under dyspepsias and other dis-
eases of a melancholic and hypochondriacal nature.
If they would add to their faith a little more temper-
ance, they would become healthier men, better
preachers and be less plagued with gloom and de-
spondence of mind. Show me a man who crowds
into the narrow confines of a small stomach a little
of everything (and some are in the habit of filling
themselves from the four quarters of the globe),
94 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
pork, beef, fowl, fish, potatoes, milk, tea, coffee, rice,
etc., and I will show you one whose habits will inev-
itably engender disease, becloud and obscure his
mind, and render him unfit for strong mental exer-
cises. We seldom see hearty eaters of pork rise to
eminence in anything but muscular force."
As I had observed, at the miserable tavern at
which he had just dined, that this worthy man had
partaken largely of the fried pickled pork, the greasy
potatoes and the wretched coffee, I could not forbear
a smile, which he failed to observe because of his
self-absorption. He continued to dwell on his trou-
bles, no doubt enhanced by this time by the weight
of the pork, and to recite at length the story of his
journey into Illinois to hold a meeting, which he said
*'was completely blotted out" by the appearance in
the town, on that same day, of one of the candidates
for the United States presidency. *'He, with his
attendants," said he spitefully, ''were so much more
popular with the people of Fairfield than Jesus
Christ and His apostles that the latter did not once
seem to be thought of by either saint or sinner!"
*'What manner of man was he, brother?" in-
quired a little man in a corner, a new passenger.
*'He was, indeed, a very genteel looking old gen-
tleman," admitted the minister reluctantly, ''appar-
ently about three score and ten, tall and slender and
plainly appareled. I made no inquiry as to his
name, but the presumption is that it was either Mar-
tin Van Buren or William Henry Harrison. ' '
"The latter," said the little man blandly, "for
Martin Van Buren, thinks I, can not leave his golden
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 95
spoons and his silken damask long enough to come
out among us of the West."
*'Be that as it may," replied the preacher. ''I
saw nothing but a man, and could not divine why
so great a stir was made because a fellow man was
passing. My meeting was completely blotted out.
I had a similar experience in Dayton, where I had
an appointment at candlelight. Forty or fifty thou-
sand people on the street, all gaping to hear political
speeches — the streets filled with an almost impass-
able electioneering apparatus — I did not even stop,
but returned home to remain until this madness is
over. ' '
He lapsed into silence, and presently Mr. Hen-
dricks called my attention to some of the scenes we
were passing. This county, he told me, was named
for the gallant Commodore Decatur, and was organ-
ized in 1821. There are no barrens or prairie lands
in the county ; the face of the country is mostly level
with gentle undulations, though on some of the
streams it is hilly. The bottoms are rich, though
small; the soil of the uplands is generally a rich
black loam, and the timber consists principally of
ash, poplar, walnut, sugar tree, oak and beech.
Greensburg, at which I left the coach, remaining
there over night, as the coach for Brookville was
not to depart till the morrow, is a post town and seat
of justice, situated on the Michigan Road. The
town is flourishing, and the inhabitants of both town
and country are very industrious; the dwelling
houses, I noted, are generally of brick and of con-
siderable size.
96 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
I spent some time in walking about the town with
Mr. Hendricks, who took me first to the scene of
his labors, the seminary, a large, square two-story
brick structure with a brick cupola and large grounds
surrounding it. The seminary was erected in 1834.
Mr. Hendricks introduced me to several of the
leading citizens, among them Mr. Henry T. Talbott,
a young Virginian who is filling the offices of clerk,
auditor and recorder and whose mother-in-law, Mrs.
Hendricks, had asked to have the town named — as
it was — after her home in Pennsylvania ; Mr. James
Morgan, at this time state senator from this county ;
Mr, Wyatt Henderson, the sheriff, and Mr. Andrew
Davison, a learned technical lawyer, so says Mr.
Hendricks, who has no superior at the bar as a
pleader. He is a Pennsylvanian by birth, and in
1825, while taking a horseback journey through the
Western country for his health, he stopped at
Greensburg perforce because his horse dropped dead
at this place, and liking it well, he has here remained,
marrying the daughter of Judge Test. I also met
Mr. Ezra Lathrop, a very successful business man;
Dr. "William Amington, a native of New York, who
had first located in Switzerland County and had only
this year come to Greensburg, and many others
whose names have slipped my memory.
When bidding farewell to Mr. Hendricks, who
courteously accompanied me to the coach on my de-
parture, I discovered again my traveling companion,
the Universalist minister. He was not going on to
Brookville, but remembering that I had said I was
to depart on this day, he had come to the tavern
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 97
yard to tell me of a great religious debate which was
to be held in a grove near Brookville the next day,
lasting two days, in which one of the speakers is to
be Brother Winans, who, he assures me, always ''ut-
ters a good discourse," and ''Jim Johnson, a son
of Methodism," who, he said, "thinks that my head
ought to be amputated," the subject to be: "Was
baptism preceded by faith and repentance, appointed
by divine authority, in order to obtain the remission
of sins and induction into the Christian kingdom?"
The debate, he assured me, would be well worth
hearing, and I agreed with him that this was doubt-
less true. I had decided, however, to attend, in-
stead, a political meeting of which Mr. Hendricks
had told me, at which the speaker is to be Robert
Dale Owen of the New Harmony settlement, an-
nounced to be one of the best of the Democratic
speakers.
We were ere long over the county line, I was in-
formed by my fellow travelers, and into the county
of Franklin, a county of rolling and broken hills
watered by the beautiful Whitewater River, formed
at Brookville by the union of the east fork and the
west fork, this part of the state being known as the
Whitewater district. A gentle summer rain had
been descending since daybreak, and as we entered
the spurs of the great hills among which, I was told,
Brookville is situated, I thought mine eyes had ne'er
been privileged to rest upon a more beautiful scene.
Occasionally we passed a gentle slope set with the
graceful beech; the hills, clad in trees of varying
shades of green, towered high, their tops veiled in
98 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
mist. Between the rifts in the hills gushed little
streams; in every hollow a pool rested, the hue of
emerald from the o'erhanging trees. The whole
landscape was emerald veiled in silvery mist.
Then, toward noon, the clouds were swept away
by a brisk breeze, and the warm June sun shone
forth. Briskly our horses mounted the hills, tow-
ering more and more grandly toward the skies, and
we came at last upon serene Brookville, surrounded
by her amphitheater of hills, a little town of won-
drous charm, and beautiful in her robe of summer
green, plentifully besprinkled with the pink of the
wild rose.
Here I have tarried for several days, making my
headquarters at the Yellow Tavern, an inn built in
early days by James Knight. It is not, perhaps,
the best caravansary in the village, but I chose it,
I confess, for somewhat sentimental reasons. Here,
I am told, in the early days, assembled such famous
men as George Rogers Clark, Simon Kenton, and
Daniel Boone. Here has come, many times. Gen.
Harrison. 'Twas within these walls, my host as-
sured me, that this leader planned the Tippecanoe
campaign. To-day, it is a favorite meeting place
for both Whigs and Democrats, and it is my expecta-
tion to derive much entertainment from such sources
in the few days I tarry here.
The town of Brookville, I have learned, has in its
brief life known both growth and decline. Founded
in 1808, it experienced its most flourishing period in
1820, when the lands in the interior as far north as
the Wabash River were thrown open and the Land
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 99
Office established in this town. All purchasers, of
necessity, visited the town -and it consequently grew
and flourished. The men who were drawn there
made of it a seat of culture, and many of the state 's
prominent public men dwelt here. Then the Land
Office was moved to Indianapolis, a town, it was said,
set in the wilderness and *' surrounded by a bound-
less contiguity of shade."
Then evil days fell upon Brookville, business
languished, houses fell vacant, and so it stood,
lapsing into decay until 1833, when with the passing
of the internal improvement act, and in 1836, the act
providing for the construction of the Whitewater
Canal, it experienced new life. I have already
recorded Mr. Dunn's story of the celebration at
Brookville on the day of the letting of the contracts.
At this time, the town being a point of shipment, and
also a receiving place for supplies, it is flourishing,
and the people are now looking forward to a canal
between Richmond and Brookville, the project hav-
ing been under way since 1837 and some excavations
for which have already been made.^
On my visit to Joseph Eggleston at Vevay he had
given me a letter to his brother. Judge Miles C.
Eggleston of Brookville, and as soon as possible
after arriving in Brookville I hastened to present it
to that gentleman, who had been appointed presi-
• Our diarist is probably wrong here. In an article on this canal
in the Indiana Magazine of History in 1905 James M. Miller says:
"The lettings took place as advertised, except Section 52, near Brook-
ville, which, owing to heavy excavations, was not let. I can not
learn of any work done near Brookville, but on Section 40, near
Fairfield, the contractors excavated about one and one-half miles
of the canal down the east side of the river." — Editor.
100 A TOUR THROUaH INDIANA IN 1840
dent judge of the Third Judicial District at the
organization of the state government and had held
the office for over twenty-one years. As I have
said before, he and his brother are Virginians,
liberally educated, and I was told that he is most
eminently fitted for his position. I found Judge
Eggleston a good-looking gentleman, rather below
the middle size, with a finely shaped head, and ex-
ceedingly well dressed. He received me with the
utmost cordiality, and on learning that my stay was
to be brief, iimnediately took me for a stroll about
the toAvn and invited me to his house that evening
for tea. I found him excellent company and a man
who, though of great dignity, enjoys much the telling
of a good story. From him perhaps more than from
any other did I learn the story of the growth of this
state.
One of the first places to which Judge Eggleston
took me was the brick Court House, a square build-
ing in the center of which runs up a cupola, on the
top of which is a carved eagle with spreading wings,
and within, a triangle, used for a bell, by striking
on its base with a hammer. The bar, on the ground
floor, is in two parts, the inside for the lawyers ; the
outside, paved with brick, for the people, who come
to hear the lawyers plead. The judge's bench is on
the west side, nearly to the ceiling.
As we strolled about the town, conversing on
many subjects, for he had many inquiries to make
about Virginia, and I, in turn, was anxious to know
many things about this new state, he pointed out to
me, in the center of the town, the home built by
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 101
James Brown Ray, in 1828, when he was a candidate
for Governor, a house considered at that time so
extravagant, because of its size and a red and green
glass window, that it was called *' Ray's Folly" and
was undoubtedly the cause of his being elected by the
smallest plurality ever given a Governor in spite of
his previous great popularity. A similar ''folly"
had been committed, he said, by Governor Noah
Noble in ornamenting his front porch with fluted
iron columns — indication that the populace is the
same the world over !
As it is possible that I may hear this James Brown
Ray^ speak during the campaign, Judge Eggleston
has told me something of his character.
He is very egotistical, very fond of display, very
fond of sensations. Judge Eggleston told me a
most humorous story of Ray's riding, when he was
Governor, at top speed to an execution, waiting un-
til the young man stood at the gallows, then saying
to him most impressively, ''Young man, do you know
in whose presence you stand? There are but two
powers known to the law that can save you from
hanging by the neck till you are dead; one is the
great God of the Universe, the other, J. Brown Ray,
Governor of Indiana. The latter stands before you.
You are pardoned."
Although he is not an old man. Judge Eggleston
says that he has recently given indication of a fail-
ing mind, for he dwells continually on a scheme he
^ James Brown Eay, boru in Kentucky, 1794, moved to Brookville,
1818, to practice law. State senator, 1822; acting Governor, 1825;
Governor, 1828-1831.— Editor.
102 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
has concocted since liis residence in Indianapolis of
railway concentration in that city. He foresees a
day when railways will be everywhere, and it is his
crazy idea that they should radiate like a spider's
web from the center of that city, with villages at
intervals of five miles, towns at ten miles, and cities
at twenty miles. 'Tis absurd, and laughable, and
yet, 'tis pathetic, says Judge Eggleston, to see a
noble mind, grown old before its time, and its pos-
sessor become a laughing-stock.
The present Governor of Indiana, David "Wallace,*
is also a native of Brookville, having read law in
Judge Eggleston 's office.
According to Judge Eggleston, the state never had
a better presiding officer.
The tea at Judge Eggleston 's I pass over
hurriedly, though it was a most pleasant occasion,
with some of the neighbors invited in. I walked
home with a young lady fast verging into the sere
and yellow leaf, and our conversation was not of
sufficient interest to bear recording.
On the day I walked about the streets with Judge
Eggleston we met a young Andrew Shirk, to whom
he introduced me. He lives just three miles from
the town, and at Judge Eggleston 's suggestion, he
promptly agreed to accompany me to the campaign
speakmg on the next day. Early the next morning,
therefore, the young man rode into town after me,
leadmg another horse by the bridle, and we set forth
^ David Wallace born 1799 in Pennsylvania, admitted to the bar
llln ^'^^^^^ "^''' 1828-1829; Lieutenant Governor, 1831-1834-
elected Governor in 1837; Congress, 1841.-Editor
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 103
together in high spirits. Mr. Shirk, I learned, is
24, just a year older than I; his father was born in
Kentucky of parents who had come out from
Pennsylvania and had come into Indiana in 1808.
His family had assisted in founding the Little Cedar
Baptist Church, three miles south of town and ad-
joining their farm, the oldest church hereabouts.
As it was early in the morning and the weather
fine, he suggested that we might ride out and view
it, and so we did. It is built of brick, quite substan-
tial, and the clay for these bricks, the young man
tells me, was tramped by oxen. Once they were
compelled to cease building for a long season for
lack of nails, and again to build a blockhouse, for
these first settlers were in frequent danger from the
Indians. . His grandf athei helped to make the brick,
and was a deacon and singing clerk, he said.
It would have been a queer sight, said he, to see
these first settlers going to church, many of them
barefoot, others wearing moccasins, the men in buck-
skin breeches and hunting shirts and caps fashioned
of fox, possum or coon skin, with the tails hanging
down behind. As he told me, we both fell to laugh-
ing loudly, sitting on horseback there in front of the
church, to think of that procession through the
woods, and here were we, to-day, quite dandyish
young fellows, in our bell-shaped beavers, our tight
trousers, our stocks tied a la mode ! Then suddenly
sobering, I looked within at the stout seats, the
ample gallery, the little pulpit high up on the side
with a tiny window, and then at the gravestones in
the little graveyard at the side, the bees drowsing
104 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
lazily in the bushes, the gray stones showing among
the overrunning vines, graves of these men who
cleared the woods and built this altar to their God !
Mr. Shirk I found to be quite an interesting young
man, and as we rode back to the grove he told me
many things of interest and much of the young peo-
ple of the town. When I mentioned that I was to
stop in Greencastle later, he promised to give me a
letter to a young man from Brookville, Thomas A.
Goodwin, who will graduate this year from Asbury
College in that town, the first out-of-town student
at this college from Brookville.
The grove in which the speaking was held we
found almost filled when we arrived there, people
having driven in wagons or come on horseback,
whole families, bringing their dinners and prepared
for an all-day outing. Mr. Shirk had told me that
he is a Whig, but, like myself, willing to hear a
speech on the opposite side. I confess I felt a great
desire to see the speaker, Robert Dale Owen, con-
cerning whose settlement I had already heard much.
Mr. Owen, I learned, is a man finely educated in
Europe, with a strong, comprehensive and vigorous
mind, highly improved by education and reading.
He has been in the Legislature and is considered one
of the best of the Democratic campaign speakers.
His arguments were the same which I had heard
advanced in Baltimore, that the Whig campaign was
not based on reason, that it made inflammatory ap-
peals to the people, that it uttered not a word of
party principle, no reason why Mr. Van Buren J
should be opposed, but resorted continually to a '
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 105
clatter of barrels and tincups. Mr. Owen is a man
small in stature, with a large high forehead, light
hair and eyes, and prominent features. He looks
every inch a Scot. He speaks fluently, and, I must
admit, with some show of reason, and he interested
his audience, though there were among them some
boisterous disturbers of the peace.
It was a pleasant day, and it was with a feeling
of regret that I parted from my young companion
at the Yellow Tavern that evening, expecting to
leave in the morning by coach for Centerville, on
my way to Richmond. What was my delight to
hear from the landlord that Mr. Owen is stopping at
the Tavern and that he wiU be my fellow passenger
on the morrow.
CHAPTER VII
Richmond, June 11, 1840.
NO matter how long my life may be, I never
expect to spend a more delightful period of
time, nor a more edifying one than that spent
in the coach on the day I rode from Brookville to
Centerville with Robert Dale Owen. I am, I con-
fess, a hero worshiper. The man who achieves, I
admire above all others. Half the charm of the uni-
versity for me, in my residence there, was the im-
pression Mr. Jefferson had left upon it of his char-
acter, his personality, and many a pilgrimage did I
make to Monticello to admire his one-time dwelling
place and to marvel over his brilliancy and many-
sidedness. Therefore, I rejoiced from the moment
the landlord told me that Mr. Owen would be my
fellow passenger to Centerville.
The fame of his communistic settlement had long
since spread to the East, not from the place itself,
but by means of the many savants from Europe who
came to our country solely to visit New Harmony
and the group of notable men who there cultivated
the arts and sciences, remote from the world. I had
also been told that some wealthy families of New
York and Philadelphia had sent their children out to
Harmony to attend the famous school for the in-
106
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 107
struction of young children established there by Mr.
Owen after the plan devised by Pestalozzi.
Since I had been in Indiana I had heard much of
Mr. Owen, his education and the wealth of his ex-
perience, and after having heard him speak, I de-
sired especially to converse with him. Fate was
kind to me, for at first we were the only passengers
in the stage, and soon fell into conversation, and he
speedily proved so agreeable, particularly on learn-
ing that I was from another state and on a voyage
of discovery, that I ventured at last to inquire how
he had chanced to enter into the political arena, for
I had heard that he had been elected to the Leg-
islature in 1834 and twice reelected since that
time.
**Well," said he, '* 'Squire Zach Wade, farmer
and justice of the peace, a tall, lank, hardy, illiterate
but shrewd and plain-spoken neighbor, called on me
one morning and said, 'Mr. Owen, the neighbors
have been talking matters over, and we've concluded
to ask you to be our candidate for the Legislature
this season.'
** 'But I am a foreigner,' said I. *It is not nine
years since I left the old country.'
" 'Anyhow, you're an American citizen.'
*' 'Yes, an adopted one. But my birthplace will
be sure to be brought up against me.'
" 'Well, it oughtn't to be. A man isn't a horse,
if he was born in a stable. '
"I was very proud of my native country, Scot-
land, but I knew he meant no harm, so I promised
to consider it. I liked my neighbors, and I appre-
108 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ciated the ability concealed under an uncouth ex-
terior. I don't know what opinion you have formed
of our Westerners, sir, in your brief stay, but I
want to say to you that hidden under their eccen-
tricities are things rare and valuable. I have
sojourned among the laborers of England, the
peasantry of France, the mountaineers of Switzer-
land, but the spirit of man was not there, the spirit
that can lift up the brow with a noble confidence and
feel that while it is no man's master, neither is it
any man's slave. You will find it far otherwise in
the frontier West. It is an equal you meet here,
an equal in political rights. Their conversation run-
ning over the great subjects of the day assures you
of it. I have heard in many a backwoods cabin
arguments on government, views of national policy,
judgments* of men and things, that, for sound sense
and practical shrewdness, would not disgrace any
legislative body upon«earth. ' '
f I remarked that I had noted this interest in
political discussions during my stay here.
"Very true," he replied. "On a hundred oc-
casions I have addressed and heard others address
crowds of hardworking men grouped under the
forest shade, calm, deliberate arguments, lightened
now and then, it may be, by a few homely anecdotes
in point — arguments which were listened to with In-
dian quietude and courtesy, and with eyes riveted on
the speaker, with sober applause or laughter now
and then, but no sign of weariness. However much
such men may, for the time, be stirred by dema-
gogical sophistry or misled by falsehood, they can
A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 109
be guided in the end by a logical appeal to reason
and common sense.
**Yes," he concluded with emphasis, **it is this
class, the agricultural masses, on whom we can de-
pend. Theirs is the law-abiding spirit; they have
the pride of ownership in their country's institu-
tions. It is 'our laws, our Constitution' with them."
Our road had by now taken us through Fairfield,
a thriving little post town of about 700 inhabitants,
which in addition to its mercantile stores, taverns,
mills of various kinds and carding machine, pos-
sessed an academy of learning, and on into the ad-
joining county of Union.
This is a small county, and when I expressed some
interest in the juxtaposition of the names of Union
for the county and Liberty for the county seat I was
told that the county was named from the hope that
it would harmonize the difficulties in Wayne and
Fayette, and that there was no special reason so far
as known for the name of Liberty. This county
much resembles Franklin on its western side, along
which our road lay, and the soil appears to be
good. The little town of Liberty, of about 500 in-
habitants, contains professors of many religious
sects, Methodists, Presbyterians, Friends, Reformed
Church, Universalists, and here for the first time I
heard the name of ''New Lights." ^
^ "The Christian [Disciples] Church had its origin in Indiana
early in the Nineteenth Century. It was a result of the protest
against creeds in the church., It gained its membership largely from
the Baptist and the Dunkard societies, though many Presbyterians
and Methodists became members. It is impossible in many instances
to tell at what point a Baptist church became a 'New Light' and
then a Disciple or Christian." Esarey. — Editor.
110 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Liberty also contains a flourishing county semi-
nary. Brownsville is another post village in this
county, and then we came to Philomath. Mr. Owen
had evidently some knowledge of this town, and bade
me take special note of it as we tarried here for our
dinner.
''This town," said he, **was founded in 1833, by
the Universalists, under the leadership of Kidwell,
and a session of the convention of the Univer-
salists of the Western states was held here. Kid-
well and Manford, of whom you have no doubt
heard, were violent opponents, and Manford once
sneeringly remarked that 'it is well known that
Philomath has been for a long time the city of
refuge for outcasts of the Universalist denomina-
tion.''^
"Kidwell has established here a little college and
a press for the dissemination of their sentiments.
I'll wager — wait a moment."
He spoke to the landlord and returned in a mo-
ment smiling, a small volume in his hand.
"I thought it would be safe to wager that I would
find in our good landlord's possession one of these
volumes, ' ' and he held out to me a small book which
I examined curiously and one of which I presently
purchased from Mr. Kidwell himself, going with Mr.
Owen, before the departure of the stage, to visit the
press and see the monthly "Philomath Encyclo-
'"The real cause for the opposition was Kidwell's position that
Christianity was not dependent upon certain portions of the Old
Testament nor upon the miracles of the New, a position which
would meet with little opposition to-day, though at that time it
provoked violent controversy." Esarey. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 111
pedia and Circle of the Sciences," which he prints
there.
''Federurbian, or U. S. Sessions, Intended to Pro-
mote Learning and a Knowledge of Republican
Principles in the Mind of Our Youth ' ' stands on the
title page of this curious volume, together with the
name of the author, Henry Houseworth, Professor
of Languages and Science in the Western Union
Seminary, this being the name of the institution here
founded by Mr. Kidwell. It was published only last
year, and its contents cover a wide range of subjects,
being divided into various departments, national,
biographies, philosophers, miscellanies and ques-
tions and answers, and containing articles on the
Declaration of Independence, George Washington,
the national character of the Mexicans, the crocodile,
Mr. Adams 's reception at the Court of St. James, re-
marks concerning the savages of North America,
and selected verses. I thought it well worth the
modest sum asked for it, and shall enjoy the sur-
prise of my Virginia friends when they see a book
actually published in what they consider so wild a
country.
Mr. Owen spoke with some feeling of the religious
controversies now raging in this section of the coun-
try, and praised the early legislators of the United
States, *^the noble and enlightened spirits," he
called them, who framed our Constitution, who
recognized its sacred claims to free speech and
equal protection. ''That same let-alone principle
in legislation," he said, "how great and impor-
tant are its results! In three little words how
112 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
much wisdom may be contained! Think of the
legion of horrors that has sprung from that
monster Intolerance!"
He had, I observed, a habit of musing for a
season, and then speaking as though to himself.
After a time, he roused himself; perhaps it was
when we had passed through a forest where' jolting
through bogs, over stumps, stones and corduroy-
roads made conversation almost impossible, and
came into a clearing where a few log huts marked
a new settlement, dead upright trees standing in the
fields, dense woods all around shutting out the rays
of the morning and evening sun, and upon my re-
marking upon the striking pictures afforded by the
contrasts in these Western settlements, and the
difference between them and the scenery of my own
South, the groves of Georgia and Carolina redolent
with the luscious perfumes of magnolia blossoms,
the glades of evergreen oak and the savannahs
clothed with varied wild flowers, or the contrasting
scene to be found in these same states of brushwood
copses, sandy barrens, dismal woods of pitch pine
and untenanted morasses, he replied, with en-
thusiasm :
**Ah, but you should see the autumn glory of
Indiana's forests, the atmosphere of the Indian
summer, when for weeks not a cloud appears on the
horizon, and the rays of light are mellowed only by
that almost imperceptible haze which, the legend
runs, comes from the red men smoking their pipes
beyond the pasture ground of the buffaloes. The
oaks wear a mantle of dark crimson; the creeping
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 113
vines and underwood are dyed vermilion; the
poplars dressed out in yellow; the beeches robed in
purple ; a delicate flame color distinguishes the rock
maple, while the pine stands aside in its somber
green, and above, a sky of brilliant blue completes
the gorgeous livery of the scene."
He fell into silence again, and be it noted, that
such was my reverence and respect for him that I
ventured not to intrude myself upon his reverie, but
waited until his musings again found voice. The
sight of some women engaged in outdoor work in
one of these clearings, suggested his next utterance.
*' Whenever I see women engaged in the hard
labor that life in the country places entails, I can but
ponder on their hardships and the injustice done
them by the laws of our state. No successful settler
would ever have built up his fortunes and made com-
fortable his home without the assistance of his wife,
she who saves while he accumulates, who so faith-
fully seconds all his exertions with her labors and
prudent economies. And yet, our iniquitous laws
take from her, if disease or accident deprive her of
his sustaining arm, the property which her watchful
care has mainly contributed to increasing and keep-
ing together. May heaven speed the day when these
unjust laws are changed ! ^
'Through Mr. Owen's efforts there were procured for the women
of Indiana, at a later date: (a) the right to own and control their
separate property during marriage; (b) the right to their own
earnings; (c) the abolishment of the simple dower of the common
law and the widow's absolute ownership of the deceased husband's
property; (d) the modification of the divorce laws of the state so
as to enable a married woman to secure relief from habitual
drunkenness and cruelty. — Editor.
114 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
"You are going to Centerville T ' lie asked pres-
ently, and I somewhat bashfully confessed that I
had taken that round-about route to Richmond be-
cause I had heard he was to speak there.
"You will find in that part of the state," said he,
"many members of the Society of Friends, and no
doubt will encounter some discussion on the subject
of negro slavery."
This, I confessed to him, I had endeavored so far
to avoid. I am, I explained, by no means a bigoted
upholder of this institution, but, in view of all the
embarrassments and obstacles in the way of emanci-
pation interposed by the statutes of the slave-hold-
ing states, and by the social influence affecting the
views and conduct of those involved in it, one should
not pronounce a judgment of general and promiscu-
ous condemnation, implying absolute destitution of
Christian principle and feeling on the part of the
slave owner.
"No, of a certainty, no," said Mr. Owen, and
lapsed into silence for a season. Then, with a smile
I had come to watch for, so sweet it was, so indica-
tive of the man's fineness and nobility, "You seem
to be a reasonable young gentleman, and open to
conviction, so we will not discuss the question fur-
ther. You are now traveling upon soil which the
Ordinance of 1787 has forever dedicated to human
liberty; your feet are now set toward two settle-
ments made by the Society whose upholding prin-
ciple is that of individual freedom. When you min-
gle with some of these men, when you have longer
breathed the free air of our Western country, un-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 115
tainted by any breath of human ownership of fellow
beings, I trust, I know, indeed, young sir, that the
scales will fall from your eyes.
"We were speaking of the fineness and ability of
these Westerners under their shell of uncouthness,"
he resumed after a season. *^They have one vice
which is greatly to be regretted — one which is in
reality responsible for many of their crimes and
offenses, the vice of intemperance. Against this the
Friends have labored, and have indeed started a
Temperance Society. We at New Harmony* have
long stood against strong drink.
*'This claptrap campaign, with its tin cups, its
barrels of hard cider, would indicate that we have
yet far to go in this reform," he added with some
bitterness.
The first settlement in the county of Wayne, I am
informed, was made by one David Hoover, who came
out from Ohio, found this garden spot and, return-
ing, brought back his family and others of his faith
to find homes in ''The Twelve Mile Purchase,"
made from the Indians in 1810. Centerville is the
seat of justice, pleasantly situated on the National
Road, and I confess I was much impressed with this
place when I first beheld it from the stage, and later
when walking about its streets. The town is level,
said to be healthy, and surrounded by fine farming
land. It contains mills and machinery of various
descriptions, several mercantile stores, three taverns,
*"New Harmony in 1826 afforded the first known American ex-
ample of prohibition of the liquor traffic by administrative edict."
Lockwood. — Editor.
116 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
several physicians and lawyers, a printing office, a
seminary and, so I was told, a large number of
mechanics of almost all descriptions.
Arriving with Mr. Owen, who most kindly intro-
duced me to the gentlemen who received him, I met
at once, I believe, most of the intelligent people re-
siding in the town and was the recipient from them
of many courtesies. I had been told at Brookville
of the Mansion House, kept by Henry Rowan, a com-
modious three-story brick structure, they said, with
accommodations in good style, but Mr. Owen as-
sured me that the Lashley House, a homelike, well-
ordered, and most excellent hotel, was always the
headquarters for prominent lawyers, and that there-
fore it had been named as his stopping place. We
accordingly put up at this inn, and here it was my
good fortune to meet, with Mr. Owen, James
Rariden, Judge Charles H. Test, John D. Newman,
John B. Stitt, Michael Wilson, Thomas Means,
Jacob Julian, and his younger brother, George W.
Julian.^
To this last named young man, just my own age,
I soon learned, I took quite a fancy, and 'twas he
who, when Mr. Owen was surrounded by a group of
men, took me for a walk about the town and talked
most entertainingly, taking me also to the home of his
mother, Mrs. Rebecca Julian, whose home is the
oldest house in Centerville. Mrs. Julian, it seems,
'George W. Julian, born near Centerville, 1817; admitted to bar,
1840; Whig, anti-slavery; elected to Congress as a Free Soiler, 1848;
Legislature, 1845; candidate for Vice-President on Free Soil ticket,
1852; Congress, 1848-9, '51, '61, '71; surveyor general of New Mexico,
1880-1890; died in Indianapolis, 1899.— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 117
is a remarkable woman of strong character, of whose
struggles and sacrifices in lier widowhood her son
spoke most feelingly. This young Mr. Julian has
taught school for a season, and then engaged in the
study of the law, and he has just been admitted to
the bar. I confided to him my similar experience in
the law, and we soon found much in common.
He called my attention to many of the houses, the
brick house of Mr. Rawson Vaile, a teacher; the
home of Mr. Dill, whose colonial pillars reminded me
of my own Virginia ; the grand white brick house of
Mr. Pritchett and many others.
All of these men and many more I met the next
evening at the Lyceum, for Mr. Julian promised me
that if I would wait over for the meeting of the
Lyceum he would ride with me to Richmond on the
next day and introduce me to some of the most re-
spectable families there, and, as I had no letters to
any one in that town, I gladly availed myself of this
opportunity.
That morning, the morning of the next day, I had
the pleasure of observing the joint celebration of the
scholars of Miss Sarah Dickinson and Mr. and Mrs.
George Rea, who formed a procession at the Semi-
nary at 9 o'clock and marched thence to the Metho-
dist Church, where the address was made by John
B. Stitt, whom I was also to hear at the Lyceum that
night. The Centerville Musical Institute provided
the music for this occasion, and as one of two ex-
cellent bands had furnished music at Mr. Owen's
meeting the evening before, I perceived that the
atmosphere of Centerville savored not at all of the
118 A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
backwoods, and that both literature and the arts
here flourished most amazingly.
I was the more convinced of this after meeting
John Finley,^ the clerk of the Wayne County Court,
to whose home on Plum Street, I accompanied Mr.
Julian.
Mr. Finley is a Virginian, I found, a man of genial
manners, and well endowed mentally. He has writ-
ten, Mr. Julian tells me, much verse, semi-humorous,
semi-pathetic, always on homely themes. The best
known of this is a poem entitled "The Hoosier's
Nest." He read us some verses recently written,
*'An Advertisement for a Wife," and at my solicita-
tion presented me with a copy in his own chirog-
raphy. Mr. Julian assured me that Mr. Finley is
not only a poet, but has capabilities for business,
and is a man highly esteemed by his fellow citizens.
The Lyceum I found of greater interest to me than
any form of entertainment I have as yet encountered
in the Western country — wilderness I shall of a cer-
tainty not call it, for that would be a misnomer.
Seat of culture would be a better name for this town,
with its academies and schools, and its men and
women of culture and refinement. The Lyceum
meets weekly in the Court House, at 6 o 'clock in the
evening, and the public generally is invited to attend.
The question for the evening was, "Would it be con-
sistent with the genius of our institutions to add ad-
ditional qualifications other than the present to the
'John Finley, born, 1797; clerk of Legislature, 1837; clerk of
Wayne County Court for seven years; author of "The Hoosier's
Nest."— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 119
right of suffrage in this state?" Last week, I was
told, the question was, ''Has Congress the constitu-
tional power to abolish slavery in the District of
Columbia, and if they have, would it be policy to
exercise it?"
The meeting was largely attended, many females
being among the listeners, and in addition to those
lawyers I had already met, I here made the acquaint-
ance of Dr. Richard H. Swain, Dr. John Pritchett
and Dr. Israel Tennis, Mr. Lot Bloomfield, a promi-
nent merchant; Mr. Burbank, another merchant;
Mr. David Commons and a Mr. Samuel Hannah, a
man, I learned, of much distinction. Mr. Hannah
was a pioneer of the county and is a member of the
Society of Friends. He has been sheriff of the
county, has served in the Legislature, was appointed
postmaster by John Quincy Adams, and removed by
Andrew Jackson. He was one of the commissioners
appointed to locate the Michigan Road. I found him
a most agreeable and intelligent man, and through
his offices I was presented to others, among them
some of the females in the audience, wives and
daughters of the members.
The scene was an interesting one. The western
window and the early hour of meeting made candle-
light unnecessary in the early part of the evening,
and the rays of the setting sun shone in upon the
intent faces of the gathering, some in staid Quaker
garments, others in worldly clothing of fine broad-
cloth with high stocks and ruffled shirt fronts, and I
had to admit to myself that nothing more enhances
female beauty than the dove-colored garments and
120 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
snowy kerchief prescribed by the religion of the
Friend.
According to his promise, Mr. Julian met me be-
fore the tavern the next morning after the Lyceum
meeting, and together we took the stage for Rich-,
mond, which lies six miles directly east of Center-
ville, on the east fork of the Whitewater. He was
a personable young man, in his broadcloth garments,
tall, with black hair, and bright hazel eyes, and while
I had been at once impressed with his dignity of
bearing, I had found him fun loving and most com-
panionable. I asked him at once why he had not
taken part in the debate the evening before, at the
Lyceum. He admitted that he had longed to do so,
but, said he, **I have a seemingly unconquerable
timidity. I fear to hear my voice in public. Some-
times I fear I shall never overcome it. I have been
this long time frequenting the courts, listening to
arguments, trying to acquaint myself with the cus-
toms of the profession in the hope that when the
time comes, I shall dare to address the judge and
jury."
We talked on many subjects as we rode, for I
found him full of knowledge of many things, and he
told me how he had worked, because of the priva-
tions entailed by his mother's widowhood, to obtain
the means for his education. ''I gathered nuts each
year, a large crop of walnuts, one fall as many as
sixteen bushels, and sold the hulls at Nathan Bond's
carding and fulling mills at 6 cents a bushel for
money with which to buy my books and stationery."
And what books! I found to my surprise that he
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 121
was familiar with Plato, Dante, Bruno, Milton, had
read philosophy, history, biography, sermons. The
whole range of literature and history was his ! , The
love of the woods was his, too, and as we passed over
the fertile country and through the great forests of
oak, beech, ash, poplar, maple and walnut, he pointed
out the plants, the flowers, the wildwood songsters,
with all of which he was familiar.
The soil of this country, he told me, is a rich loam
bedded in clay, well adapted to the cultivation of
grains of all kinds ; it is unrivaled in the exuberance
and variety of its productions by any county in the
state, and without doubt, because of the fruitful soil,
the salubrious climate and its moral population,
Richmond is rapidly advancing to wealth and inde-
pendence.
Arrived at Richmond, I waited at the tavern, the
National Hotel, while Mr. Julian transacted some
business before walking abroad with me, and im-
proved the period by perusing a paper. The Jeffer-
sonian and WorMng man's Advocate, its motto,
*' A frequent recurrence to fundamental principles is
absolutely necessary to preserve the blessings of
liberty," published, so I observed, by a Mr. Samuel
Eliot Perkins, who I learned later was a most able
lawyer of the town. The paper, I found to be an
excellent one, and I perused the foreign news,
especially, with great interest, having heard little
or nothing of it since I left Petersburg.
The Great Western, it seems, has recently arrived
with intelligence from Europe. Hostilities are
seemingly threatened between England and the
122 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Sicilies over tlie sulphur trade. The belligerent at-
titudes assumed by England and China are unmiti-
gated, the cause and nature of the quarrel, the
East India Company's opium trade. A railway is
planned from London to Bristol, at a cost of $6,-
000,000. From the United States the news is of a
tornado which has nearly destroyed the city of
Natchez, and the arrival in New York of Fanny '
Elssler, the most brilliant, extraordinary and cele'
brated opera dancer in the world.
As its title would indicate, this is a Democratic
paper, and the first editorial proclaimed the Demo-
cratic attitude. ''The Fourth of July meeting," it
ran, ''must go on. We Democrats, being all hard-
fisted workingmen, have but little time to spend and
scarcely any money in making preparations for cele-
bration, but, though poor, we are honest politicians,
go for principle, and want no gull-trap shows,
parades and fandangoes. It will cost us Democrats
nothing for ribbons, silk stockings and gloves, rufiled
shirts, etc. We are all plain workingmen and want
things in a plain, equal, Jeffersonian, Democratic
way. ..." I also read with some amusement vari-
ous flings at some of the gentlemen I had just met
at Centerville, who I inferred are of the Whig per-
suasion.
"Rariden, Newman and Bloomfield owe their
future to David Hoover, Esq., but now that Samuel
Hannah has come and is elected to a clerkship, they
cling to him. ' '
I had just turned the page when a shadow fell on
the paper and I looked up to behold Mr. Hicklin of
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 123
Madison, my circuit rider friend, who, saddle bags
in hand, stood before me.
"I trusted I should meet you here," said he, **and
now, we three fellow travelers, Arnold Buffum the
Friend, you and I shall again sit in converse to-
gether, for he has even now come into this town.
And I have other tidings for you as well," he added.
*'I have but just come from your friend Buford and
his ladies, and they hope ere long to meet you
again."
CHAPTER VIII
Indianapolis, June 15, 1840.
GREAT was my joy at beholding again my
friend, the circuit rider, and also to hear that
he had so recently seen Buford and his wife
—his ladies, he had said, but he explained no
further, and my tongue was tied when I undertook
to inquire if he had meant Mrs. Buford 's cousin.
Buford had intimated to me when we parted that
he and his wife might make some visits in Indiana
before setting off for the South, so that I had
cherished the hope of meeting them again and with
them, the fair Miss Caroline. Mr. Hicklin men-
tioned several towns which they contemplated visit-
ing, among them Vincennes, returning thence to
New Albany. As both these towns are included in
my itinerary, it is within the range of probability
that I may encounter them. Mr. Hicklin also asked
me to go with him on the morrow to Newport, a
small town in the vicinity of Richmond, where dwells
a well-known and worthy friend, Levi Coffin by name,
under whose roof Arnold Buffum is domiciled while
in this region. I agreed to this, and he bade me
farewell until the morrow, going on to an appoint-
ment at some neighboring post town.
Mr. Julian soon returned and together we set about
\dewing the town, though, it must be confessed, we
121
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 125
spent more time and found more interest in an in-
terchange of ideas, happily finding so much that is
congenial in our tastes, so many questions for dis-
cussion, that time sped far too swiftly for our liking.
While perusing the paper, I had noted the adver-
tisement of a book store which interested me much ;
a Mr. D. P. Holloway, a bookseller, had inserted a
notice in the paper that he had just received from
Philadelphia a small assortment of books in the
various departments of literature and science. Mr.
Julian readily acceded to my suggestion that we turn
our steps thither, and we did so, finding there much
of interest. Among the books I noted particularly
the works of Patrick Henry, Collins' Poems, "Lock-
hart's Burns," ''The Life of Wilberf orce, " ''The
History of the Jews," "The Pirates' Own Book,"
"The Sentiment of Flowers," "The Language of
Flowers." As I opened this small volume with its
colored frontispiece, a nosegay in a graceful vase,
and scrutinized the page on which, in a delicate com-
bination of learning and sentiment, stood first the
popular name of the flower, then its scientific name
and botanical description, its language, and a verse
full of sentiment, expressing the love, constancy,
affliction, despair, or whatsoe 'er the meaning may be,
memory carried me back to the day in the inn when
I had restored a similar volume to its fair owner,
and I at once purchased the book of Mr. Holloway.
Well, why not? The bookseller and Mr. Julian
thought it a gift for a sister, and I did not unde-
ceive them. 'Tis not beneath a man, is it, to learn
a language in which the fair sex is so proficient?
126 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Suppose he is a faint heart, and fears to put into
words the sentiment he feels for the fair one, what
more fitting than that he lay at her feet a nosegay
whose lily, rose, and forget-me-not will breathe in
perfumed accents his undying love and devotion —
his prayer that she be his?
Together with this I purchased an album, richly
gilt and profusely embellished with engravings from
the Scripture, as a gift for my mother, and also for
myself a supply of the gilt-edged paper and quill
pens for the excellence of which, it is said, Mr. Hollo-
way is famous. Mr. Julian purchased ' ' The Life of
Wilberforce," and after our having examined all the
collection and commented upon each volume in turn,
we again went forth on to the streets, where Mr.
Julian pointed out curious objects of interest to
me, as we continued our conversation, light, 'tis true,
but with enough sense scattered through it to keep
it from flying off to the moon.
In politics, Mr. Julian told me, he is a Whig, and
acknowledged that in the matter of attending mass
meetings and. singing Whig songs, he is playing a
considerable part in this campaign. When I men-
tioned some of the objections that are made to
Harrison by the Democrats, he said that one reason
for his support of him is that he is a poor man and
will be a better man therefore to administer to the
poor people in poverty and hard times than Van
Buren, who is an aristocrat and has high ambitions
to gain all control in his hands by overthrowing the
liberties of the people. However, he admits that the
campaign has resolved itself into altogether too
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 127
mucli of a frolic, into — to use his words — "such
a jubilant and uproarious expression of the im-
prisoned mirth and fun of the people that anything
like calmness of judgment and real seriousness of
purpose is out of the question in the Whig camp."
As we walked about the broad streets I was intro-
duced to members of several of the intelligent
families of the towm. Among these whom I met was
Mr. Perkins, editor of The Jejfersonian, in whose
columns only this morning I had found so much of
interest and entertainment, and this gentleman, I
was told and learned also from conversation with
him, is a man of sound, discriminating mind, untir-
ing energy, industry and strict integrity. Mr.
Achilles Williams I met also, who has been in the
Legislature and is now postmaster, and Dr. John
Plummer, who is a friend and correspondent of
Noah Webster, who, he tells me, is about to publish
a new edition of his great dictionary. Dr. Plummer
possesses a fine cabinet of Natural History speci-
mens over which we spent a great part of the after-
noon. He is a man, I learn, of great benevolence,
and high moral principles, and we both delighted in
his conversation.
Charles W. Starr was another citizen whom I met
at this time, a Philadelphian who came here in 1825,
bought a farm of more than 200 acres and laid it
off in lots. He also established a cotton factory.
We visited the State Bank, where Mr. Julian is
known, and here I made the acquaintance of its
cashier, Elijah Coffin, a friend and patron of educa-
tion and a most estimable gentleman; Messrs. Leeds
128 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and Jones, wlio own the paper mill and Jeremiah
Mansur, a substantial citizen who only last year sold
his mercantile business and retired to his farm near
Richmond.
From these gentlemen I learned of the town's
prosperity and prospects of growth. Only this year
it has been incorporated as a city, its first mayor
having been elected last month, and this gentleman,
Mr. John Sailor, I met and from him gained much
information concerning the city.
Richmond's location, I have neglected to state, is
most attractive, standing, as it does, upon an oval
crest on the east bank of the Wliitewater, its few
streets are wide, and its residences well built, in the
main. Its population is estimated at 1,130. While
I was most favorably impressed with the flourishing
business of the town, its factories, mills, foundries,
manufactories, its many mercantile establishments,
drug stores, stores of general merchandise, silver
smiths, and so forth, I was still more impressed with
the plans made for its future expansion, the Rich-
mond and Brookville Canal, which I have already
mentioned, the macadamized roads which are in con-
templation in various directions, the plans for the
extension of the town and the erection of new and
more pretentious buildings. Still more interesting
and worthy of note is the attention accorded to the
cultivation of the arts and sciences in this town.
Its schools, both male and female, are numerous and
well conducted, and the orthodox Friends, I am told,
are builcmg m the vicinity of the town a large and
beautiful seminary. The town also possesses "two
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 129
literary and scientific societies, one of which has a
large collection of minerals, shells, and other
curiosities.
The contrast between this and other towns in the
matter of social life is more noticeable to the casual
visitor, perhaps, than any other one feature ; this, of
course, being due to the influence of the Society of
Friends, whose members compose the majority of
the population. This I spoke of with Mr. Julian,
whose mother is a member of this Society, though
his father was of Huguenot extraction. Over the
town, said I, I felt the mantle of quiet, of silence,
and we both agreed that to one not of their faith,
and unaccustomed to their mode of thought or man-
ner of life, there seems to be an ever-present feel-
ing of restraint and repression, both mental and
physical, a feeling sometimes irksome and uncon-
genial to a youth of high spirits.
There is little social life here as we understand the
word, according to Mr. Julian; no lectures, no con-
certs ; even music is frowned on as unbecoming and
even sinful. When written down it sounds far from
pleasing — to a gay youth, at least — silence whenever
possible, no ''concord of sweet sounds," the plainest
of plain costumes, all as different as possible from
the gay attire, the variety and frequency of enter-
tainment which characterize my Southern home,
and yet, I am free to confess at this very moment
and to set it down in my diary, that even to so
volatile and spirited a young person as I admit my-
self at all times to be, and one who had been talking
most volubly throughout this long-to-be-remembered
130 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
day I fell somewliat under tlie spell of the quiet
dignity, the careful language, the long silences of
the Friends, and as to the attire, well, it is true that
the long soher coats and the broad-brimmed hats of
the men are not so taking as the blue and brown
broadcloths, the gay vests, the patent leather shoes,
and the bell-shaped beavers of the worldly people,
but of a certainty, the garb of the females, the
simple robe of dove color, the plain bonnet, the
sno^\y kerchief crossed demurely, when the costume
of one as young and fair as Miss Lavinia Cotton, I
never have seen in the ballroom a gown which could
compare to it in becomingness !
Miss Lavinia, or Friend Lavinia, I should say,
rode with us to Newport the next morning in the
stage which carried Mr. Hicklin, Robert Morrison
and myself to the home of Levi Coffin. Mr. Hicklin
met me at the tavern, accompanied by the Methodist
minister then stationed at Richmond, with whom
he had spent the night, and to whom he now intro-
duced me. This was Joseph Tarkington.^
He had come here from Lawrenceburg in 1839,
sending his household goods to Brookville by canal
and from there to Richmond overland. I found him
a most interesting and discursive gentleman, who
told me much of the Methodist Church in the White-
water country, in which he had been preaching the
Gospel from the time of his early ordainment into
the ministry. A few years before, he had suffered
a breaking down of health from hard work and ex-
^ Father of Mr. John S. Tarkington of Indianapolis. See "Auto-
l)iography of Reverend Joseph Tarkington.' V-Editor,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 131
posure, and had been ''located," as they express it,
in Lawrenceburg, until his recovery, at which time
he was sent to the ''Richmond Station," as it is de-
nominated. He spoke of the town's educational ad-
vantages and mentioned that three of his children
are attending the Poe school in the basement of the
Methodist Church. He also mentioned the fact that
the Friends had not been at the first particularly
friendly to the other denominations, but were grow-
ing more so, and he also called my attention to the
fact that their influence in the matter of dress and
amusement consciously or unconsciously has af-
fected the ministers of other denominations who de-
mand a similar sobriety in dress and amusements
from their o^vn church members.
Mr. Morrison, who traveled with us, is one of
Richmond's foremost citizens, who came early to
this county, established himself as a merchant, and
by his frugality, prudence and business talent has
accumulated a large estate. He is, I am told, a de-
vout member of his Society and ever a friend of the
poor. Naturally, the conversation was carried on
principally by Mr. Hicklin, though Mr. Morrison
broke through his Quaker silence occasionally to ask
questions concerning the formation of anti-slavery
societies in which the circuit rider is engaged. Miss
Cotton said nothing, not even lifting her eyes after
the first glance, in which I discovered them to be
a most beautiful dark blue with eyelashes bro^vn to
match the heavy bands of hair of which I caught a
glimpse under the prim bonnet. "Permit me," I
said once, on restoring her reticule which a lurch of
132 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
the stage had thrown to the floor. ''I thank thee,
friend," she replied, and her voice was as soft and
low and sweet as her eyes had promised it should be.
The day was an interesting one, and I surprised
myself at the interest I took in the words of Arnold
Buffum, who seemed truly glad to see my face again,
although not given to any expression of emotions.
Mr. Levi Coffin, to whose home we went, has been en-
gaged for some years in the mercantile business in
this small thriving town settled by Friends, a sightly
town wiih many flowing wells which furnish an un-
failing supply of pure cold water. He is also en-
gaged in pork packing, and owns an oil mill for the
manufacture of linseed oil.
The early settlers of Newport - were, he told me,
of a positive, determined class ; believing in a right,
they would maintain and defend it.
For two principles they had stood from the begin-
ning, temperance and anti-slavery. The Newport
Temperance Society was organized in 1830. The
conviction against slavery also early found an ex-
pression here, and in 1838 Mr. Coffin established an
Anti-Slavery Library Society for the collection and
distribution among the people of books, tracts, and
other publications. ''It is not a popular cause, '»
said Mr. Coffin. ''It tries a man's soul to take such
a stand m these days, when brickbats, stones and
rotten eggs are some of the arguments we have to
meet, but our faces are set in that way and there
will remain."
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 133
I ofttimes thought, during that day, of the amaze-
ment, the rage, that would have found expression on
my father's face could he have seen his son hobnob-
bing with these enemies of an institution he sup-
ports ! I reflected, however, that I was not alone in
my position ; the father of my cousin Jonathan who
has come out to the Wabash country, freed his
slaves before his death, and had besought his son to
come to a country free from this curse. I reflected
also that I could not listen to this talk so calmly
had I not been more influenced than I had suspected
by the fairmindedness and the friendliness of
Arnold Buffum and the really warm affection which
Mr. Hicklin had so early shown for me, to say noth-
ing of the weight of Mr. Owen's words on this
subject.
So I sat through the meeting addressed by Arnold
Buffum, who makes no attempt to organize societies,
this being the w^ork of Mr. Hicklin, listening some-
times, though I confess that my mind and my eyes
strayed frequently to the side of the meeting house
in which sat Friend Lavinia, who had tucked into
her kerchief a sprig of the sweetbriar which grows
against the church wall, another sprig of which she
held in her slim fingers. A dove, a Quaker dove in
her soft silk, a rosebud, rather, as yet tightly folded.
What youth would not wish to be the wooing sun
and air to unfold this rose, to see, within, the hidden
heart of gold !
To my great pleasure, I learned that Mr. Hicklin
was on the morrow going on to Indianapolis, and ac-
cordingly on the next morning we took the stage at
134 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Richmond to travel together over the National Road
to the capital city. This would have been my route
had I continued on by land from Baltimore, across
Pennsylvania and Ohio into Indiana, through Rich-
mond straight west to Indianapolis.
Here I will note that the road presents many of
the features which marked it in the East. 'Tis true,
the country is flat, and not so picturesque because of
this, though most fertile and with many farmhouses
and villages along the entire route. 'Tis also true
that the road is still in a somewhat unfinished state,
and different in that it is cut through what is still
a new country, but the pageant of travel is much the
same here as in Pennsylvania. For some years
there has been a continual stream of movers from
the East, from Ohio, from different parts of Indiana
and from the South, into the Wabash country, and
we passed continually these families, sometimes five
or ten in a company, wagons, men, women, children
and stock. The younger women were often driving
the teams, the men and boys walking by turns to
drive and look after the stock. Sometimes there
was also, in the procession, a carriage built very
high to go over stumps and through streams, in
which were sitting the older women and the children.
Sometimes, too, one family would have two or more
of these great wagons, with their household goods,
their farming implements, behind which came extra
horses, colts, cattle, sheep, and sometimes even hogs.
There were also little Southern carts drawn by
bony little Southern horses, and now and again the
stage coach, with its bright paint, its fine teams, its
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 135
heralding bugle. And on tliis journey I had many
occasions on which to reflect on the pleasures of this
method of travel, the interesting fellow travelers,
the edifying conversations, the amusing incidents.
Our route led us back through Centerville and as
our stage halted before the Mansion House a great
number gathered for the mail and to catch sight of
travelers and visitors, and we spoke again of what
an eminent political center this town is, and to what
a future it is destined.
I had been told something of the first county seat,
Salisbury, a bit of romance, for, with much opposi-
tion from many in the county, it was made the first
seat of justice, and for a season was a flourishing
town with thirty-five houses, a log Court House and
jail, taverns, public buildings and mercantile stores,
all now vanished from the earth, since the transfer
of the seat of justice to Centerville.
'Tis said that the site of Salisbury was the tryst-
ing place of some Indian lovers who were killed by
a band of pioneers, and that the Indian mother pro-
nounced a curse upon the place, saying that it should
not live, but should disappear forever from the face
of the earth. A second curse also rested upon it, a
man hanged there, so he declared unjustly, cursed
the town. By 1826, 'tis said, Salisbury had only ten
families and ere long these dwindled until now the
town has completely disappeared, leaving, as the
bard poetically expressed it, ''not a rack behind."
After Centerville our next stop was Cambridge
City, and here a most interesting fact was related to
me illustrating the change occasioned by the build-
136 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ing of the National Road. In 1824 a little village
called Vandalia was established near here and gave
promise for some years of a flourishing existence.
When the road was laid out, however, it failed to
pass through Vandalia, and the town gradually fell
into decay and was abandoned, the families going to
the beautifully situated and flourishing town of
Cambridge City, established on the road.
Here befell one of the most interesting of the
many interesting events of my journey, for *twas
here that a gentleman entered our stage coach who
we learned later was the eminent Prof. Samuel K.
Hoshour.^
'Twas not long till we were engaged in conversa-
tion, and he told us at length of his theories of edu-
cation. He had come to Wayne County in 1826, had
been head of the Wayne County Seminary for
several years, and had only last year come to Cam-
bridge City, to become the Principal of its Seminary,
which he described as large and tastefully con-
structed. His theories are new and, so it appears to
me, excellent. His scholars are urged always "to
give or get a reason for everything you do." He is
deeply interested in the science known as etymology,
and when the pupils seem to be wearying of their
work, he suggests investigation of various words,
their original meaning and their strange changes on
their journey down to us.
* S. K. Hoshour, born in Pennsylvania, 1803. Professor at Gettys-
burg in 1826; came to Wayne County, Indiana, 1835; head of Wayne
County Seminary, 183G; teacher of sons of Governor Wallace, Cam-
bridge City, 1839; President Northwestern Christian University,
lft58; Superintendent Public Instruction, 1862. Died, 1883.— Editor.
AN OLD HOUSE NEAR CENTERVILLE
A stopping place for emigrants on their way to the West
Pen drawing by Wilbur Briant Shook
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 137
He told us of a book lie had written in 1837, called
''The Altissonant Letters," which he had composed
for the purpose of impressing upon the minds of his
pupils the meaning of the unusual words of the
English language. In this, as in his other work, his
purpose was ' ' to make amusement the hand-maiden
of instruction." Altissonant means high-sounding,
and the hero, Lorenzo Altissonant, details to his
friend Squire Pedant, the incidents of a pedestrian
journey to the West in words which are only oc-
casionally used at the present day, their meaning for
that reason being remembered with difficulty. He
recited some examples, and we made merry over our
lack of familiarity with some of the words, "the
ecclesiastic who was to colligate the parties in indis-
soluble gyves;" *'he was a sexagenary;" **the
gracility of his crural organs engaged all optics. ' *
It was with regret that we parted from this inter-
esting and learned gentleman at Dublin, where he
was to make an address at the County Seminary.
This town, though quite small, is the location of the
Dublin Academy, in a tine brick building erected two
years ago, and also the Dublin Female Seminary,
expressly for young females, which is conducted in
a frame building built in 1836, and which possessed
the first bell in the county.
The landscape changed very little as we passed
from Wayne County into the adjacent county of
Henry, the land being level and uniformly fertile.
The houses are frequent along the road, many of
them of brick, and when I expressed surprise at this,
I was informed that many of the earliest houses
138 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
were built of brick because sawmills were far apart
and the use of sawed lumber meant a long haul,
while bricks could be made at any place where a
clay bank was available. The architecture of these
houses followed that of the state from which the
settler came, so that many of them suggest the
homes of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia.
Some of them are set among orchards and sur-
rounded by gardens, so that the landscape, though
level, is pleasing.
I was told, too, the way in which the towns grew — <
first a blacksmith and wagon shop for the con-
venience of travelers along the road, then a tavern
and a general store, in which the postoffice was
located. From this store peddlers' wagons went
forth to the more remote settlements.
Raysville, the next settlement on our way, though!
small, is pretty and well built and is surprisingly
thriving. There are several mills (it is situated on
the Blue River) and a carding machine near the
town. The most interesting thing noted concerning
this town is an excellent spring a short distance
from the town whose waters are brought through an
aqueduct into the town, there forming a fine fountain
which supplies the whole town with water. It was
named after Governor Ray, incidents in whose life
I have elsewhere recorded. Two taverns are on
opposite sides of the road, kept respectively by
Elijah Knight and John Death, and 'tis said by
travelers ''Knight is on one side of the road and
Death on the other. ' '
And now we came to Knightstown just across the
A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 139
river, a post town located after the building of the
road, which forms its main street and along which
most of its houses are located. A traveler who
entered the coach at this point found fault with it
as a village which had received little attention from
its citizens. Its streets are wide, said he, but
muddy, unpaved and unshaded, and many of the
houses are unsightly, though he admitted that im-
provement is already beginning to be seen, and other
passengers said its prospects are promising.
'Twas here we learned of a most interesting de-
bate held at this place only a few days ago between
a young Methodist minister, L. W. Berry, and a Uni-
versalist minister named M'Cuen. This M'Cuen, it
seems, is an old theological pugilist who has held
thirty-four debates with ministers of different de-
nominations, and he challenged the young Methodist
to debate with him on the question, ''Will all men
be holy and happy in the future state?" M'Cuen to
affirm, Berry to deny.
Young Mr. Berry had never engaged in a debate,
but had spent most of his time since the age of 18
in traveling large circuits as an itinerant preacher,
so his friends trembled at the thought of his meeting
this ecclesiastical gladiator. No church would hold
the crowd that gathered to hear this debate, said
our informant, so they were assembled in a large
grove where for three days the speakers discoursed
alternately. Dr. Berry's discourse, said this man
w^ho traveled with us, was wonderful. His soul
seemed to catch inspiration from on high, his lips
and tongue were touched anew with a live coal from
140 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
off God's altar and his words burned as they fell
upon the audience. Small wonder that M'Cuen and
his friends turned pale !
With such discourse we passed the time until we
came to Greenfield, a post town and the seat of jus-
tice of Hancock County. The town is small but con-
tains several mercantile stores, two taverns, one
lawyer, a physician and craftsmen of many trades.
The town is supplied with water by a very notable
spring within its limits, and has the advantage of
mills at convenient distances and on the streams
which pass through the county. The most notable
point is the rich, fertile land surrounding this town,
which is in a very prosperous and flourishing state
of improvement. Much buckwheat is raised here,
1,614 bushels I learned and set down as a matter of
interest; 39,000 pounds of maple sugar and much
hemp and flax, six and one-fourth tons during the
last year. Immense crops of flax are sown each
year by the farmers because the oil crushers buy the
seed to make oil and furnish it to the farmer, agree-
ing to purchase the crop when made. Tobacco is
another important crop, 10,304 pounds being re-
ported last year, and there is one distillery in this
county, where 10,000 gallons of whisky were made
last year.
'Twas while talking with the traveler who gave
me this agricultural information that I learned more
of the disease called ''milk sickness," of which I
had heard at intervals in this state. It is contracted,
said he, either from eating beef or drinking milk
from a cow that has the disease, but no one has ever
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 141
found out how the cattle get this disease. When a
person gets the milk sickness it is very hard to get
rid of; some say it will always remain in the blood,
producing what is known as 'Hhe tires." The per-
son will feel pretty well, but can stand very little
fatigue; he fails in strength and feels always trem-
ulous.
After Greenfield, our next stop was in Cumber-
land, a small village in Marion County, just ten miles
east of Indianapolis, and night had fallen when we
reached the capital. Our stage drew up before the
tavern known as Washington Hall, a famous hos-
telry, so Mr. Hicklin informed me, which has for
years been the headquarters of the Whig party. We
found our host, Edward Browning, most agreeable,
and I am anticipating the morrow's dawning, when
I may go forth to present the many letters given
me by friends in the state and thus meet the city's
notables.
CHAPTER IX
Indianapolis, June 18, 1840.
I HAVE had a great desire to view Indianapolis,
liaving heard so many opinions of a different
nature concerning it from friends and travelers
during my journey in the Western country. Some
assert, as Governor Ray is said to have done, that
it is a miasmatic place, ' ' set in a boundless contigu-
ity of shade." Others declare that its location is not
only beautiful but salubrious. It would seem that I
must view it with my own eyes and judge for myself.
Then, too, there is always much to excite interest in
the capital of a state, and I have letters and oppor-
tunities for introduction to most of the respectable
families residing here, so I have been most anxious
for the time to come when I might walk about its
streets and meet its people.
I will set down first my observations on the city.
The population, I am told, is 2,692, whereas, accord-
ing to the ''Emigrant's. Guide," which the host of the
inn, Mr. Browning, showed to me, there were in 1832,
just eighteen years ago, only ninety families, an in-
dication of rapid growth and, in consequence, pros-
perity. The county, the Guide continues, is an ex-
act square, a delightful tract of country, presenting
a level and rich surface. The town is situated on a
142
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 143
beautiful, fertile and very extensive plain just at the
confluence of Fall Creek with the White River,
and the main street,, sometimes called Washington
Street, and which is the National Road, is 120 feet
wide. In 1820, Mr. Browning informs me, the whole
country for forty miles in every direction, with the
exception of a few unimportant prairies, was a dense
forest with no settlements nearer than fifty miles,
and it was through these forests that the first set-
tlers had to make their way. Naturally they made
their first settlements near the river, where there
was less underbrush and but a few thinly scattered
sugar trees which only required to be deadened and
the land fenced in order that it might be cultivated.
Discovering my interest in this settlement, Mr.
Browning himself pointed out to me the historic spot
where the first settler, McCormick — although I learn
that there is a dispute as to whether he or George
Pogue really came first to this spot — ^built his cabin
overlooking White River and not far from where is
now the long and handsome bridge which spans the
river and affords entrance to the town over the Na-
tional Road from the west, the road being improved
by being graded and bridged as far as the town of
Terre Haute. The first comers to this spot came
because gf the Indian trails, a half dozen of which
converged to the mouth of Fall Creek, because of
a sandbar across the river.
In my few days* stay here I have been several
times driven about the city and am charmed with
its plan. On mentioning to some friends that it re-
called to me the city of Washington, I was informed
that this was not singular, since one of the surveyors
144 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
who planned the city, Alexander Ealston, had as-
sisted Major L 'Enfant in the survey of our national
capital. This young Ralston later came out to
Louisville, Ky., then to Salem, la., and thence to
Indianapolis in 1822, where he became county sur-
veyor. He and Elias Fordham, a young English-
man, an engineer, planned the city on a very large
scale; their plat, it is said, provides for a mile
square, the boundary streets being known as North,
South, East and West, a ridiculously large plat, it
would seem, even to so thriving a population, but it
may be, Mr. Browning says, and many others proph-
esy, that it will eventually fill the entire space in-
cluded in these encircling streets.
The four central blocks of the city are known as
the Governor's Square, and at their very center is a
circle known as the Governor's Circle, on which,
stands the house of the Chief Executive. From the
four corners of the Governor's Square four diag-
onal streets branch out, which run to the four cor-
ners of the plat, and all these streets are ninety feet
in width. They are named respectively for the
states of Indiana, Kentucky, Virginia and Massa-
chusetts. The streets east and west are parallel with
Washington (the National Road) and north of it are
named Market, Ohio, New York, Vermont, Michigan
and North, and to the south of Washington Street
they run Maryland, Georgia, Louisiana and the
bounding street, South.
After the first two blocks north of and south of
the main street, or Washington, the streets can
hardly be dignified by that name. They bear much
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 145
more resemblance to the country roads over some
of which I have fared. In the very middle of some
of them the forest trees are still standing ; in others,
stumps compel the wagon way to wander crookedly
along, and this same wagon way is rendered ex-
tremely unpleasant for travel by numerous mud
holes. South of Washington, and along the part of
the plat traversed by the creek known as Pogue's
Creek, the land is extremely swampy, and in order
to reach some of the houses of men of prominence
whom I shall name later, it is necessary to pass
along over corduroyed thoroughfares and skirt
swampy pastures fringed with willows. However,
this is all incident to the making of a town on level
ground traversed by water courses.
These blocks which are built upon, none of them
completely covered as yet with buildings, present a
very pleasing appearance. Some of the buildings
are surrounded by gardens and give evidence of the
presence of a sober, moral and industrious commu-
nity.
Of the salubriousness of this town I was soon to
hear varying opinions. Some declare it a most
health-giving spot. Others say that it is infested
with that ague of which Dr. Peabody of Vernon told
me so particularly. Still others declare that while
there was much chills and fever at the time of the
city's settling, such is no longer the case. So I am
forced to dismiss the subject, unsettled, with the
hope that I, myself, may not be made the proof of
the existence of this dread disease.
The first letter I chose to present was one from
146 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Mr. Dumont of Vevay, to Mr. Samuel Merrill. My
reasons for this were several. Mr. Merrill, I had
heen told by Mr. Dumont, had years ago come out
from Vermont, his birthplace, to Vevay, had served
in the Legislature, was elected the state's first treas-
urer, had assisted in the naming of the capital city,
and, when the capital was moved to the city in the
wilderness, as was said at the time, had brought
with him in a wagon the state's moneys, over the
long and perilous wilderness road. On the expira-
tion of his term of office Mr. Merrill had become
connected with the State Bank.
On seeking Mr. Merrill at his home on Washing-
ton Street, opposite the new State House, of which
I shall have more to say later, I found him all and
more than Mr. Dumont had assured me I would.
He introduced me to his family, has invited me to
his home several times, has presented me to several
of the principal men of the community, and it is in
his company that I have viewed much of the city.
One of the interesting things he has told me is the
story of his journey from Corydon to Indianapolis,
a distance of 160 miles, requiring two weeks, on
account of the difficulties of travel, and on which
journey he carried in wagons the state's silver,
packed in strong wooden boxes.
In my several visits to Mr. Merrill's home, I was
much impressed with his library, one of the three
best libraries in the city, I am told, the others being
those of Calvin Fletcher and James M. Blake, Mr.
Merrill's being the largest. As to his character, I
was to hear from others as well as to observe for
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 147
myself, his benevolence, his generosity, his interest
in all good works.
Having served as an official in its beginnings, Mr.
Merrill was most excellently qualified to describe to
me the most intelligent people in the community and
to point out the places of interest connected with
the government. All center naturally about the
Governor's Square, the Governor's Circle and the
Governor's Mansion. This mansion, he explained
to me, because of the publicity of its location, is not
and never has been occupied as a residence, but is
used for any social gatherings the Governor may
desire, and is now occupied by the judges of the
Supreme Court and is also the home of the State
Library. He informs me that at the corner of Illi-
nois and Market Streets is to be found the home of
Governor Wallace, to whom I have letters from vari-
ous acquaintances in Brookville, and he has prom-
ised himself to accompany me to call on this digni-
tary.
Mr. Merrill has given me the history of the new
State House, very recently completed, and on the
occasion of my first visit to him he took me across
the street to view it at close hand. It is a magnifi-
cent structure, stuccoed and built in the Doric style.^
I met at this time, through the offices of Mr. Mer-
rill, James Blake, the commissioner, a most inter-
* Our diarist's taste must be at fault here, if we are to credit
Col. Holloway, who in his history of Indianapolis (1870) declares
that the style of architecture is unfitted to the level country, that
the stucco has not withstood the extreme vicissitudes of the climate,
and that "the incongruous contemptible dome condemns it utterly."
Mr. Parsons being young and enthusiastic, evidently did not think
for himself, but reflects the sentiment of the community. — Editor.
148 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
esting man, whose conunercial venture in ginseng
and later in hemp form an interesting chapter in
the town's history, and also young Mr. T. A. Morris,
an engineer who assisted in the building of the State
House, a West Point graduate, who a few years ago
organized an excellent military company. This com-
pany, in their handsome gray uniforms faced with
black velvet, I have several times had the pleasure
of seeing drill and parade.
The Court House, also on Washington Street, and
two blocks east of my tavern, has been, since its erec-
tion soon after the location of the capital, the seat
of the town's business and social interests, so Mr.
Merrill informs me. It had originally a fine situa-
tion among beautiful forest trees, but many of these
have been cut away, others, left unprotected, have
been blown down, until now almost all are gone, and
the grounds present a bare and unsightly appear-
ance. From the years 1825 to 1835 this rather
sightly two-story building was the only public build-
ing in the town, and was used for the meetings of the
Legislature, the Federal and Supreme Courts and
the county board. Now that these are passed, it is
still in constant use for meetings, lectures, preach-
ings, theatrical exhibitions, concerts, conventions
and balls. To one of these last named, soon to be
given, I have been invited.
One of Mr. Merrill's daughters, a most intelligent
and interesting young female, has been most kind
to me, and has given me much information concern-
ing the social side of the city. The family belongs
to Mr. Beecher's church, and she tells me that two
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 149
of the most beautiful young women in the city are
members of this congregation. There are in this
city, she says, many men of the most polished man-
ners, among them former Governor Noble, who,
Mr. Beecher asserts, has the finest manners of any
man he has ever known. Dr. Andrew Wylie,^ pres-
ident of the State College at Bloomington, a town
at not a great distance from here, who has lectured
here recently before the Female Academy, Miss Mer-
rill professes to admire almost more than any man
she knows.
"You should have seen him,'* she said, ''that hot
June day, walking along in the street in his brown
linen coat, w^ith a Leghorn hat, beneath whose ample
brim a breath of wind occasionally stole to play with
his silver locks; his large, well-proportioned form,
his broad, noble brow, the domain of high thought,
the bluff independence of his look and manner. And
then his address — ^you should hear him engaged in
argument, and hear the depth of his thought, the
elegance in which this thought is clad, and his elo-
quence also. Oh, sir — !" She paused, unable to
continue. It is my hope that ere I leave this state I
may have the opportunity to meet this man, to whose
school I have been told Governor Wise of my own
Virginia has sent three of his sons, so highly does
he value the excellence of this great instructor's
tutelage.
It was this same young lady who informed me of
'Andrew Wylie, born in 1789 in Washington County, Pennsylvania.
Came to Bloomington in 1829 to assume the presidency of the Uni-
versity. Died 1851.— Editor.
150 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
some of the social gayeties of Indianapolis to which,
through her agencies no doubt, I am soon to be ad-
mitted. There are, she says, parties, church sup-
pers, sewing societies, singing schools, something
continually with which to divert and also to im-
prove one's self.
The weather has become quite warm, the heat most
oppressive, indeed, within the last few days, and
while passing along the main street yesterday in
company with Mr. Hicklin, who was bound to a camp
meeting in the military reservation, a large ground
in the western part of the city, I stopped at a store
whose advertisement I had noted in the newspaper
at the tavern, to purchase some clothing better
adapted to the exigencies of the weather than that
with which I am provided. The store is known as
The Indianapolis Clothing- Store, and is situated on
Washington Street, the first door east of the Man-
sion House, and the notice in the paper advised that
its proprietor had just received from Baltimore an
extra supply of summer clothing, white and brown
grass coats, also drab and white linen, Holland and
gingham coats, together with a splendid assortment
of muslin, linen and gingham shirts, plain and fig-
ured satin vests, and also those of marseilles, Va-
lencia, silk, merino and toilonet. I found an assort-
ment quite to my liking, and a most genteel propri-
etor, Mr. Orr, most solicitous as to pleasing, and
soon made a selection of appropriate garments with
which to attire myself for the days I intend to linger
in this city, whose social life is far more extensive
than I had imagined.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 151
I soon met, and this too through Mr. Merrill,
whose kindness was unceasing, Mr. Calvin Fletcher,
who showed me the greatest courtesy, and on learn-
ing that I was a stranger come from Virginia to
inspect farming land in the Western country, as-
sisted me in every way in acquiring information and
viewing the environing country. He informed me
that in 1835 this county contained 1,300 farms, and
produced 1,300,000 bushels of wheat and the same
of corn.
As we drove about, Mr. Fletcher told me much of
the surrounding country and of the citizens of the
capital. Born in Vermont, he had lived in Ohio for
a season, acting there as tutor in a family, and from
there went to Richmond, Va., to engage in the prac-
tice of the law. His love for freedom and the rights
of man soon caused him to feel the atmosphere of
this state uncongenial, and he returned to the north,
eventually settling in Indianapolis in 1821, where he
was the first lawyer to come to the city. From oth-
ers I learned of his success in the practice of the law,
of his serving as State Senator, and as District At-
torney. He is at present sinking fund commissioner
for the State Bank, which he assisted to organize.
My acquaintance with Mr. Fletcher I found most
delightful, the congeniality of our tastes completely
bridging over the difference in our years. Like Mr.
Merrill, he possesses an extremely fine and well se-
lected library, and when I visit him I find the great-
est delight in perusing the titles of the books, among
them some volumes of Audubon's ''Birds of Amer-
ica'* with beautiful hand-colored plates. Mr.
152 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Fletcher is a great lover of nature and is especially
fond of ornithology, and he has told me much of
Audubon and of his "Western residence in Hender-
son, Ky.
When he told me something of the round of his
daily life, I was not so greatly astonished at the ex-
tent of his accomplishment. He rises, so he tells
me, at 4 in the morning and attends to his corre-
spondence until breakfast. He next rides out to his
farm of 600 acres, two miles from the city, and then
returns to take up his duties at the banl?:. He is in-
terested in every good work, is a man of remark-
able temperance in all his habits, and of a most re-
markable energy. He is something under six feet
in height, strongly and compactly built, and has an
extremely penetrating gray eye. He tells me he is
keeping a diary in which he records everything of
importance which takes place under his notice. I
have met him at some of the gatherings of lawyers
of which I shall have more to say presently, and I
note that while he indulges in none of the convivial-
ity which is a feature of these meetings, he is as fond
of a joke as the best of them, and I am told has a
considerable reputation for his quizzing and prac-
tical jokes among the members of his profession.
On my confiding to Mr. Fletcher my impressions
of the city, he informed me that I am correct in con-
cluding that the citizens are unusual in the degree
of their enlightenment. He has had ample opportu-
nity for observation during his residence in Vir-
ginia, Pennsylvania and Ohio, and he assures me
that in the new towns in Virginia, the old towns of
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 153
Pennsylvania, and in Urbana, Columbus, Dayton
and Bellefontaine, Ohio, there is not the enlighten-
ment that he has found among the citizens of In-
dianapolis. There is in this place, said he, both a
certain intellectual activity and a strong moral bent .
which is a characteristic of all. There are many
political meetings, but these are not all. These men
are continually engaged in town meetings to promote
civil affairs, in debating societies, in Bible classes,
and the union Sunday School under the leadership
of Dr. Coe is flourishing beyond belief. **I am con-
vinced," he concluded, ''that there is not a settle-
ment in the West which has a more church-going
population than has ours. As for our schools, you
will, I am sure, find them most interesting and flour-
ishing."
With this I was ready to agree, for I had already
viewed the Indianapolis Female Institute, under the
leadership of the Misses Axtell, to which I am in-
vited to attend an exhibition given soon by the young
females who attend it. I had also seen the Franklin
Institute of which Nathan B. Palmer is president,
and on University Square, between the streets of
New York and Vermont, and of Pennsylvania and
Meridian Street, a square held now by the city on
consent of the Legislature, but given originally to
help endow a state university, the County Seminary,
the best educational establishment, I am told, in the
city. This building was erected six years ago and
stands on the southwest corner of this square.
It is two stories high with projecting lobbies at
each end, has two rooms below and a lecture room
154 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and a teachers' private room above. Besides its
use as a school, it is much used as a lecture room
and for church services, this being the place in which
Mr. Henry Ward Beecher holds his church services
until the completion of his new church in the Circle,
even now in process of erection. The principal of
this school, the Rev. James Kemper, it has been my
good fortune to meet, and I find him not only a
remarkable scholar, but a man of fine personality
and highly esteemed in the community.
While I had brought letters and had several means
of introduction to citizens of Indianapolis, some of
my introductions were brought about quite by acci-
dent. One of these incidents I shall narrate be-
cause of its amusingness and unexpectedness.
I have neglected to say that the time of my visit
finds this city, as it has many others, filled with
excitement over the political campaign, although I
am surprised to be informed that General Harrison
is not so well known here as I had imagined to find
him. It is natural that he should not be known out-
side the Northwest Territory, but even here, it seems
that since the days of his active participation in af-
fairs and his return to Ohio, his name has become
unfamiliar to a generation that has grown up since
the days of Tippecanoe and Tecumseh. However,
the Whig population seems to be in the majority, or
perhaps possessed of better lungs, and the hurray-
ing and jollifying has been going on ever since my
arrival. 'Twas during a Whig procession preceding
a stump speaking in the outskirts of the town that
I unexpectedly made an acquaintance which I had
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 155
expected to make later on through other and more
formal channels.
At the corner of Illinois and Washington Streets
a cabin of buckeye logs had been erected. "Buck-
eye" being the name applied, I am told, to the state
of Ohio, and this, then in compliment to General
Harrison, and whenever a Whig meeting is in prog-
ress, as was the case on the day of which I am
speaking, barrels of cider are kept constantly run-
ning before it. This procession was in nature like
all I have seen since coming to the state — wagons
with log cabins, with coons, with barrels of cider,
*'dug out" canoes filled with young females singing
the popular Whig song:
"What has caused this great commotion, motion, motion,
The country through?
It is the ball a-rolling on for Tippecanoe and Tyler, too,
And with them we '11 beat little Van ! ' '
I was standing on this particular day on the oppo-
site corner from the cabin, where the new inn, which
is to be called the Palmer House, is in the process
of erection, when two gentlemen stopped near me
to watch the procession and to engage in conversa-
tion. The one, a tall, striking looking man, I soon
gathered from his conversation to be a minister of
the Campbellite Church, and who, I learned later, is
named O'Kane, and is a distinguished controver-
sialist, who has debated long and successfully on
religious topics, his most noted debate being held
recently with none other than my recent acquaint-
ance, the Universalist Kidwell. The other man, to
whom I felt at once attracted by a certain charm of
156 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
manner and an exceeding richness and melodious-
ness of voice, was a man below medium size, with
prominent eyes, large forehead and fine features.
They talked first of politics and then spoke of reli-
gion, and finally on the last-named subject, the tall
man said:
*' Suppose we debate on it, Beecher."
**No, no," replied the other man, laughing. **You
would soon use me up, O'Kane, and I can't afford
to be demolished so young!"
*'Beecher!" So this was Henry Ward Beecher,
who had preached only the last year at Lawrence-
burg and to whom my friend, Mr. Dunn, had given
me a letter. Since coming to Indianapolis I had
learned, both through Mr. Merrill and Mr. Fletcher,
of his success as a minister. I have had pointed
out to me the First Presbyterian Church, established
here very soon after the founding of the city, and
have been told of the separation in 1837 into the
Old School and the New School, at which time fif-
teen males and females left this church and founded
the church known as the Second, to which Mr.
Beecher came from Lawrenceburg only last year.
As Mr. O'Kane passed on and Mr. Beecher re-
mained, looking at the procession, I ventured to step
forward, introduce myself, and explain that I had at
the tavern a letter to him from Mr. Dunn.
His greeting was hearty and sincere. I knew he
meant his welcome and the invitation he extended
to me to his church and his home. The latter, a
neat, one-story cottage, in Market Street, near
New Jersey, I soon visited, meeting his wife, a
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 157
rather discontented woman, complaining constantly
of the chills and the unhealthy nature of the
to^vTi. I also met here a Mr. W. S. Hubbard, a
young man of the congregation who was boarding
with them, for it appears that the ministers ' salaries
in these new places are insufficient to support their
families Avithout additions from other sources.
Mr. Hubbard accompanied Mr. Beecher and my-
self in a stroll about the garden in which the minis-
ter is extremely interested, and which is greatly pro-
ductive of vegetables, fruits and flowers. I soon
found that one of Mr. Beecher 's great interests is
horticulture, and that he contemplates establishing
here a horticultural society and eventually publish-
ing a paper devoted to its interests.^
On the subject of horticulture in Indiana, Mr.
Beecher talked at length.
"There is," said he, "no better soil and climate
for the perfection of small fruits. Our variable
springs are their only obstacle. The long summers,
the brilliantly clear atmosphere, the great warmth
and dryness during the fall ripening months give
our fruit great size, color and flavor. There are
very few gardens in Massachusetts except near large
cities which can compare with ten or twenty in this
town. ' '
He then went on to speak of the interest the peo-
ple in Indianapolis take in gardening. ' ' I hope you
have noticed, sir, as you walked about our city, the
^He did both. In August, 1840, he established the Indianapolis
Horticultural Society, and a few years later published the Western
Farmer and Gardener. — Editor.
158 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
many beautiful little flower gardens, the cleaned
walks, the trimmed borders, this, too, when, from the
rear, one can almost throw a stone into the primeval
forest. In some places you will find only an acre of
ground, but this covered with fruits and vegetables
of every kind. Ah, when I see, as I have seen, such
a little garden, the personal labor of one man, and
that man poor and advanced in years, I do believe,
sir, that this sight has delighted me more than would
the grounds of the London Horticultural Society!''
Mrs. Beecher, in our brief conversation, confided
to me that whenever Mr. Beecher goes to see one
of his parishioners or some poor person in whom he
is interested, it is his wont to carry in his hand some
choice specimen from his garden, to present it to
the person visited, telling him something of inter-
est concerning it and its growth, and then offering
him a plant of it from his garden. And almost
always, she said, he arouses sufficient interest for
the person to accept his offer and to ask for the
plant, and ere long he, too, is the proud possessor
of a garden.
Mr. Beecher deplored the cutting down of the trees
from the Court House grounds and the Circle, and
declared his intention of inducing public-spirited
gentlemen to assist in planting the streets with spec-
imens of all our best forest trees.
At Mr. Beecher 's request, I remained to tea with
them on this evening, and accompanied him to
prayer meeting in the room in the Seminary, which,
as I have said, he is using until the completion of
the church. As we went forth to prayer meeting,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 159
accompanied by Mr. Hubbard, two gentlemen came
out of a house directly opposite, a plain two-story
brick structure, and turned their steps our way.
These gentlemen were presented as Daniel Yandes
and his son, Simon. Daniel Yandes is a pioneer,
and a man who has hewn a fortune out of the wil-
derness by his own efforts, I am told, and he is a
most devout member of the church and most liberal
in his benevolences. The son Simon is extremely
tall and thin, with light hair and gray eyes. He is,
as I soon perceived, not given to conversation, but
as we walked together and he learned that I was a
stranger and observed my interest in Mr. Beecher,
he told me much of him. He is, says Mr. Yandes,
a man admirably adapted to Western life. From
the moment he came to town, he entered with the
greatest enthusiasm into all the social life and en-
gagements ; he has a talent for conversation, is full
of wit and fun, and already knows everybody in
the town.
I was ready to agree with this, and when I heard
him preach, as I did later, I subscribed immediately
to the words of praise from other sources — that as
a preacher he is a landscape painter of Christianity ;
that he has no model, is off-hand and original ; that
his great power over his congregation consists
mainly in the clearness of his mental vision, the
range of his thoughts, the deep interest he imparts
to whatever he teaches.
Before the evening was over I had reason to thank
the chance which led me to Mr. Beecher and had
brought about my invitation to the prayer meeting.
160 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 ,
for here I met among others, Mr. Lawrence M.
Vance, a young man near my own age, a member of
the choir (Mr. Beecher is said to have introduced
choirs into this city), and to Mr. Vance I owe much
of the special pleasure I have enjoyed during my
stay in the city. I also met here some of the found-
ers of the church, Mr. John L. Ketcham, Mr. Joseph
F. Holt and wife, Mr. Sidney Bates, Mr. Alexander
Davidson and many others, whom I have encoun-
tered again at other gatherings and all of whom
have showed me attention.
Time presses and I must bring this installment
of my diary to a close. In my next I shall chronicle
the next incidents of days in this city, the ball, the
tea at Mrs. Sarah Bolton's, a poetess of the "West-
ern wilderness, my meeting with a company of law-
yers, an evening at the home of Governor Wallace,
and my trip to a ** pleasure garden" with a most
beautiful and accomplished young lady.
CHAPTER X
Indianapolis, June 21, 1840. .
I ALREADY have mentioned young Mr. T. A.
Morris, a West Point graduate and an engi-
neer who superintended the work of construc-
tion on the State House, and who has for some years
been captain of a company of volunteer militia. It
was my good fortune to see this militia in action
one day of this week. This company, the "Marion
Guards," I was informed by my companion at the
time, was organized in 1837 by Col. Russell, who was
later succeeded in the captaincy and the work of
drilling by Mr. Morris. Their uniform is of gray
cloth, black-faced, with high shakos of black shiny
leather, with black cockades. Col. Russell, 'tis said,
drilled them well in the beginning, and after Mr.
Morris took them in hand they became quite pro-
ficient in their evolutions, which afforded great en-
tertainment to the town. There is another company
also, incorporated just two years ago, known as the
''Marion Rifles," under Capt. Thomas McBaker, and
these men wear an altogether different uniform —
a blue-fringed hunting shirt with blue pantaloons
and caps, not nearly so soldierly, but after all more
attractive, in my eyes at least, because of this very
suggestion of the frontier.
Sometimes, I hear, the Guards are called "Gray
161
162 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Backs" because of their gray uniform, and the other
company, perhaps because of their less disciplined
appearance and their method of warfare, unlike the
European, or Prussian, I should say, in which the
Guards are so well drilled, are called ''The Arabs."
On this day of which I speak the two companies,
by agreement, as I learned later, met for a sham
battle along Washington Street, and soon all who
were on the street or in the stores and various build-
ings were lined along the sidewalks watching the
performance. Down the street came the Guards,
marching and firing in platoons, most stately and
imposing in their tall shakos, when suddenly up-
started the Arabs, and went through their skirmish
drill, lying down in the dust, firing, loading again,
rising, retreating in a run, dropping down again
and going through the same maneuvers, much to the
delight of the spectators. It was a most interest-
ing spectacle, and I was much pleased to have this
opportunity of observing the efiiciency of the militia
and the interest of the lookers-on.
Young Mr. Morris or Capt. Morris, I should say,
who is just 29 years old, is a young gentleman of
fine presence and most agreeable manners, and he
has been most gracious to me on the occasion of
our several meetings and has related to me many
most entertaining anecdotes of his experiences. He
was, he informs me, at Tippecanoe, at the great
meeting which I attended in company with Col.
Vawter, and he has presented me to several of the
gentlemen who were his companions on this occa-
sion. The delegation which went from this city was
' A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840' 163
of most imposing proportions and importance, and
was given the name of ''The Wild Oats of Indian-
apolis," and several of these gentlemen, among
whom I remember most distinctly Elliott Patterson,
Charles Cady, John D. Morris, James R. Nowland,
Andrew Byrne, Hugh 0 'Neal, George Bruce, George
Drum and Vance Noel, have told me many amusing
stories of this long journey through the rain and
mud to one of the greatest political demonstrations
they had ever witnessed.
This Mr. Noel, or Vance, as he is familiarly ad-
dressed by many of his townsmen, is a Virginian by
birth, who came here in 1825 with his parents and
has been in the office of the Indiana Journal, a paper
which was first published under the name of the
Western Censor and Emigrant's Guide, established
by Harvey Gregg and Douglass Maguire, most es-
timable gentlemen, whom I have met several times.
My friend, Mr. Merrill, I learn, was an editor of
this paper for a season, and five years ago it was
purchased by Mr. Douglass and Mr. Noel. The lat-
ter tells me that he has learned the entire business
in this office, beginning as an apprentice and serving
later as journeyman, foreman, and now proprietor.
A most amusing incident narrated to me by Mr.
Noel, and one which explains jesting- remarks I have
heard exchanged frequently among various gentle-
men on the occasion of their meetings, concerns, an
event known as **the Black Hawk War." Early in
1832, I am told, a Sac Indian chief, by name Black
Hawk, by his hostile acts a.roused much fear among
the northern frontier settlements of Illinois and
164 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
northwestern Indiana, and in order to reassure the
settlers and to provide for the permanence of the
settlements Governor Noble- sent two detachments
of militia to the northern frontiers of the state, or-
dering small detachments of mounted riflemen to
be stationed at different points from the skirts of
the settlements beyond the Wabash and the lake.
This same Col. Russell who organized the Marion
Guards, was commissioned by the Governor to raise
the 300 volunteer militia, and the prestige of this
gallant gentleman whose greatest delight, 'tis said,
is to ride dashingly along by his line of men, sword
flashing, plume flying in the breeze, shouting his or-
ders, induced a great number to join the body. In
a very few days the companies made up of citizens
of this and adjoining counties were full, at some
expense, too, for all were expected to arm and equip
themselves with horses, rifles and camp, equipage,
and were settled in the camp on the high ground
just beyond West Street and north of Washington,
where they employed themselves while waiting in
molding bullets and throwing tomahawks at a mark.
*'I shall never forget the day of our departure,'*
said Mr. Noel, as he related to me the story. **It
was a Sunday morning, and this long line of 300
mounted men marched along Washington Street,
which was lined with onlookers, mothers, fathers,
friends, many of them weeping as they thought of
the possibility of their heroes never returning. The
dreariness of this occasion was enhanced by the dol-
orous notes of a great tin horn which heralded our
movements, and each onslaught on which brought
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 165
a fresh deluge of tears from the spectators who
thought never to look on us again. As a matter of
fact, like that ancient King of Spain, we all marched
out and then marched back again. We were gone
just three weeks, all told, the greater part of this
time consumed in going and coming, for when,
guided by William Conner, we arrived at Fort Dear-
born, we found that the war was over and Black
Hawk a prisoner. We marched around the lake to
South Bend on our homeward way, a most unfortu-
nate proceeding, by the way, for the editor of the
paper in that town, John B. Defrees, enormously
amused by our very warlike appearance and our late
arrival on the field of combat, gave us the name of
'The Bloody Three Hundred.'
''The name did not reach Indianapolis for a sea-
son. We arrived at home on the 3d of July and
were given a dinner at Washington Hall on the
Fourth by our grateful fellow citizens, who wel-
comed us as returned heroes who had undoubt-
edly prevented their wholesale massacre. However,
'twas not long till the story crept out of our blood-
less and uneventful journey, and then Mr. Defrees 's
happy epithet, the Bloody Three Hundred! 'Twas
too apt a title to be forgotten, and though eight
years have elapsed since then, we are still twitted
with it."
• Later I encountered some of the leading men who
were members of this company, and to all of them
was presented by Mr. Noel — Stoughton A. Fletcher,
Gen. James P. Drake, Capt. John Wishard, Gen.
Robert Hanna, Capt. Alex Wiley — all of whom, I
166 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
observed, still found pleasure in recounting the in-
cidents of this expedition. Col. Russell himself I
have had the pleasure of meeting; he is a stock-
holder in the inn, Washington Hall, whose impor-
tance as a center of Whig activities I am beginning
more and more to realize as the excitement incident
to the prosecution of the campaign progresses, and
I have found him a man of most ardent and enthu-
siastic temperament and one most kind and devoted
to his friends.
On the evening of the day on which I saw the mili-
tia maneuvers, I went, according to arrangement,
to Mr. Merrill's house that he might accompany me
to call on Governor Wallace. I have noted before
that the house known as the Governor's Mansion,
situated in the Circle, has never been used for a res-
idence, the situation being too public, and during
the incumbency of Governor Wallace, a house has
been purchased by the state which was built by Dr.
John Sanders, and which is said to be the finest
house in the town. It stands on the northwest cor-
ner of Market and Illinois Streets, and at not a great
distance from Mr. Merrill's home.
'Twas not yet sunset, as I strolled along Wash-
ington Street toward Mr. Merrill's, and frequently
I encountered the urchins of the town driving home
the cows. From the south they came, from the place
known as Sheets' pasture.^
This place Mr. Fletcher in driving out has pointed
out to me. They came down Illinois Street, a cow
^ Two blocks between Georgia and South Streets and Tennessee and
Mississippi Streets. {Holloivay, 1870.)— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 167
or more for every family, it would seem, from their
number, sometimes pausing to graze, anon lashed to
a gallop by their young drivers who were shouting,
fighting, singing, indulging in the thousand and one
pranks common to youth the world over. These
same urchins I had observed but the day before
while walking abroad with Mr. Vance, flocking to
Noble's Hole,- their favorite swimming place, he
said, because of the blue clay in the bank which,
sloping steeply, gives them a fine slide into the
water, and also affords paint with which they streak
and spot their naked bodies hideously for an Indian
play about the meadow.
Judge Miles C. Eggleston of Brookville, who was
so kind to me during my stay there, had given me
a letter to Governor Wallace, who studied law in
his office. He is very fond of his former protege,
and declared him one of the finest lawyers of the
Whitewater Valley. He told me, too, of the death
of Governor Wallace's first wife, a daughter of
Judge Test, and of his union four years ago with
Miss Zerelda Sanders, a beautiful and accomplished
young female, a daughter of Dr. John Sanders, the
same whose handsome house has been purchased for
the Governor's residence.
I soon found that so far as the cordiality of my
reception was concerned, the letter was all unnec-
* "Noble's Hole," where Market Street bridge is, "Morris's Hole,"
where the creek passes out of the culvert under the Union Depot,
and another deep "elbow" near the gas works and the foot of Wash-
ington Street at the old ferry landing, were favorite swimming places
for Indianapolis boys in the forties and fifties. (Holloway, 1870.)
— Editor.
168 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
essary. While Governor Wallace professed him-
self delighted to hear thus from his old preceptor,
he would, I am assured, have been equally gracious
to any stranger, unintroduced, within his gates, for
he is the happy possessor of most charming and dis-
tinguished manners.
I shall not soon forget the happy family scene into
which Mr. Merrill and I were welcomed — the spa-
cious house with its plain, but handsome furnish-
ings, the mahogany secretary, the tall and massive
bookcase, the central table with its brass candle-
sticks, the vases of flowers, the little ornamental
articles of feminine construction, the knitted mats
and anti-macassars, the worked covers of the foot-
stools and fire screen, and, illumined by the soft
candle light, the family circle, the handsome head
of the house, his beautiful young wife, now only 23 ;
the young sons of the household, William, 15 years
old, and Lewis, a handsome and lively lad of 13.*
Nor must I forget the charming Miss Mary, sister
of our hostess, a pretty creature, whom I am sure
a nearer acquaintance will prove delightful, who sat
throughout the evening engaged in her needlework,
but blushingly regardful of our conversation.
Governor Wallace I found a man of a character
that at once attracts and holds. He is handsome,
with black hair ajid piercing blue eyes. His voice
is beautiful and finely modulated, and I can well
believe what Mr. Merrill told me on our way thither,
that with this modulated voice, a countenance and
Later to become General Lewis Wallace and author of "Ben-Hur."
—Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 169
person remarkable for beauty and symmetry, a style
of composition chaste, finished, flowing and beauti-
ful, and a style of delivery impressive, graceful, and
at times impassioned, he has, as an orator, few
equals in the nation. ,
In the course of the evening our talk turned on
Robert Dale Owen, and I was informed that his play,
''Pocahontas," was presented during the last winter
by a group of young actors known as ' * The Indiana-
polis Thespian Corps" and that the part of Poca-
hontas, the princess, was taken by the young Wil-
liam Wallace.*
I had noted on entering. Governor Wallace *s li-
brary, among which were prominent Gibbons *s ' ' Mis-
cellaneous AVorks" and Goldsmith's "Citizen of the
World" and ''Animated Nature," and our conver-
sation soon turned upon this topic of reading. Mrs.
Wallace joined in the talk at intervals, and 'twas
not long ere I perceived that she is deeply inter-
ested in all matters of public weal and of education
in particular, displaying therein a taste rare in a
female, so that our talk proved most edifying. We
spoke of the writings of our American authors, and
Governor Wallace declared that he considers Mr.
John Quincy Adams's eulogy on the "Life and Serv-
ices of Lafayette," the best memoirs on this cele-
brated character published in this country. He
* During the winter of 1839-40, an old foundry building called the
"hay press" was fitted up with stage and scenery and used by the
Indianapolis Thespian Corps to present Robert Dale Owen's play of
"Pocahontas." The leading actors were James G. Jordan as Capt.
John Smith; James McCready as Powhatan; William Wallace as
Pocahontas; John T. Morrison, Davis Miller and Jamea McVey in
other characters. (Holloway, 1870.) — Editor.
170 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
spoke, too, of ''The Pioneers," by Mr. J. Fenimore
Cooper, a historical novel of our country of which
I have heard but have not as yet perused, and also
he commended highly the writings of Mr. Washing-
ton Irving, whose ''Sketch Book" he asserts with
some warmth to be, to his mind, as good, if
not superior to the "Sir Roger DeCoverley
Papers."
"Pray, Mary, hand jne that volume on the table
beside you, ' ' he requested, and turning to me, asked
if I were familiar with the effusions of that gifted
poetess, Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney.
"These poems," said he, indicating the red and
gilt volume, "are remarkable for their correct versi-
fication, their harmony, and their true poetry, as
well as for their straightforward common sense,
their pure and unobtrusive religion, and their vein
of natural tenderness."
"That may be true," responded Mrs. Wallace,
"but I confess that my idol is still Mrs. Hemans,
the English Sappho, as she has been styled."
Her husband shook his head. "Mrs. Hemans is
the high-souled and delicately proud poetess of an
old dominion ; her lays are full of the noble chivalry
of a state whose associations are of aristocracy ; she
is the asserter of hereditary nobility, the nobility of
thought, of action and of soul, 'tis true, no less than
of broad lands and of ancient titles. Mrs. Sigour-
ney is the Hemans of a republic; and if she rather
delights to dwell in the hamlet, to muse over the
birth of the rustic infant, or the death of the vil-
lage mother, it is that such is the genius of her
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 171
country, that the boasted associations of her land
are simplicity and freedom, and as befits the muse
of such a land, her meditations are fain to celebrate
the virtues of her country's children. If, as you say,
young sir, you are not familiar with this poetess,
permit me to read you a few lines — see if you do not
agree with me as to her merits."
And, opening the book, he read.
Death found strange beauty on that polished brow,
And dashed it out. There was a tint of rose
On cheek and Hp, He touched the veins with ice,
And the rose faded. Forth from those blue eyes
There spake a wistful tenderness, a doubt
"Whether to grieve or sleep, which innocence
Alone may wear. With ruthless haste he bound
The silken fringes of those curtaining lids
Forever. There had been a murmuring sound
"With which the babe would claim its mother's ear,
Charming her even to tears. The Spoiler set
His seal of silence. But there beamed a smile
So fixed, so holy, from that cherub brow
Death gazed, and left it there. He dared not steal
The signet ring of heaven.
We all sat in silence for a moment, and I noted
a tear on Miss Mary's pink cheek. I wondered not,
for, recited as it was, the poem was most affecting.
I had already heard how our host delights in read-
ing aloud, and that he frequently is persuaded to
read for company, and I was most pleased to have
this opportunity to hear him. Mrs. Wallace broke
the silence, addressing me.
*'0h, sir," said she, *4f you are interested in
poetry, you must be informed, if indeed, you do not
172 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
already know it, that young as is our state, we have
already poetry writers of our own.'*
"And that I do know," I replied, and told her of
my meeting with Mrs. Dumont of Vevay and John
Finley of Centerville, each of whom had favored
me with autograph verses.
''And they do not surpass us, for we have one
here," she replied. ''Mrs. Sarah T. Bolton, and if
it is to your taste, you shall go to her home with us
to-morrow evening to an evening party."
The name fell on my ears strangely familiar, and
then presently it came to me that it was of this lady
that my friend Jesse Bright of Madison had told
me, and of how that they were schoolmates in Madi-
son, she heing then Sarah Barrett.
We went the next evening to the farm, Mt. Jack-
son,° named by Mr. Bolton's stepfather in honor of
Gen. Andrew Jackson.
The party consisted of Governor and Mrs. Wal-
lace and myself with Miss Mary and a young gentle-
man who, from his attentive conduct, I judge is pay-
ing her his addresses, a Mr. Robert B. Duncan. I
was told something of this interesting family. Mr.
Bolton, they say, was for a time the editor of the
Indianapolis Gazette, and having met with financial
reverses, he and his wife removed to this farm a few
years ago, in the endeavor to restore their fortunes
and to retain possession of this piece of property.
The hardships induced by the financial stringency
'On Jan. 13, 1845, Dr. John Evans, Dr. L. Dunlap and Jame3
Blake were appointed commissioners to obtain a site not exceeding
200 acres for an insane hospital. They selected Mt. Jackson, then
the home of Nathaniel Bolton. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 173
of the last years, the scarcity, nay, the utter absence
of money, have been greatly felt by them. They
have transformed their home into a tavern and much
of the heaviest work of the household, cooking, clean-
ing, milking many cows, making butter and cheese,
to say nothing of the necessary spinning, weaving
and sewing, have been done by this gifted, cour-
ageous and high-spirited woman, who, they say, with
all this, finds time for much social intercourse — she
and her husband are most popular — and for some
literary labors.
I was most pleasantly impressed by the atmos-
phere of this simple home. True, the furnishings
were of the plainest, but the hospitable spirit, the
evident delight in the society of her guests, furnished
an irresistible attraction, and I could easily under-
stand why Mrs. Bolton's parties are so popular and
why she is in such demand; her companions being,
so Mrs. Wallace tells me, the best in the state. I
found Mr. Bolton a man of fine character, of ex-
ceptional conversational powers, and 'tis said, too,
that he is a ready writer.
AVhen I beheld Mrs. Bolton I perceived at once
that the reports of her charm were not exaggerated.
Slightly built, of low stature, with a face at once
interesting and intellectual, expressive eyes and
abundant and beautiful bro^vn hair, she possesses
also the charm of vivacity, her every movement
speaks of youth and joy.
Her manner is graciousness itself, and she told
me in a most humorous fashion of her infancy in
Jennings County, of her father's moving to Madi-
174 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
son in order that she might attend school, and of
her wedding there and her journey through the
woods to this town, her trousseau in half a pair of
saddle bags. I was emboldened presently to ask her
if she would inscribe a few lines in the album I am
taking to my mother, adding that the autograph of
one so gifted would greatly enhance its value.
''You flatter me, young sir," she replied, making
me a sweeping courtesy. ''Trust a son of the Old
Dominion to understand the arts and graces of po-
lite intercourse with the fair sex ! And for that, if
you will but bring your book to Mrs. Wallace's
house to-morrow, when I shall ride into town, I'll
promise to indite a poem for your mother and one
on our state, at that."
And so she did, in her delicate chirography, and
this poem, "Indiana," she tells me was first printed
some years ago in the Indiana Democrat at the time
her husband was its editor.
"Home of my heart, thy shining sand,
Thy forests and thy streams,
Are beautiful as fairyland
Displayed in fancy's dreams.
Home of a thousand happy hearts,
Gem of the far wild West,
Ere long thy sciences and arts
Will gild the Union's crest.
Thy skies are bright, thy airs are bland,
Thy bosom broad and free ;
We need not wave a magic wand
To know thy destiny.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 175
Great spirits bled, and dying gave
Thy stars and stripes to thee ;
Thy sons would die that trust to save
In pristine purity."
As I parted from Governor and Mrs. "Wallace on
our return from Mount Jackson, Mr. Duncan, who
had in the meantime been bidding farewell to his
pretty companion, volunteered to walk with me to-
wards my inn. He is the clerk of the county, he
told me, having held this office for six years, and as
we parted he invited me to accompany him, Miss
Mary, and several other young people of the town
on the evening of to-morrow to the ** pleasure
garden.'*
CHAPTER XI
Indianapolis, June 22, 1840.
I WILL inscribe a few lines in my diary while
waiting for ttie stage which is to carry me from
Indianapolis for — I was about to write, for-
ever, but why should 11 Should I decide to remain
in the Western country, should I cast my lines in
these places which have proved themselves so pleas-
ant, I shall not be so remote from this city that I
can not visit it again, and again meet these new
friends who already seem like old ones, so warm-
hearted, so generous in their hospitality have they
proved themselves to be.
It would seem that most of my acquaintances have
been among the lawyers, this not altogether be-
cause of my own studies in the law, but in part from
accident. First I formed the acquaintance of Mr.
Dunn of Lawrenceburg on the steamboat, and
through letters from him made the acquaintance of
other members of his profession in other places, and
so on, one leading to another. This experience has
been repeated in Indianapolis through letters from
Mr. Bright at Madison and Judge Eggleston at
Brookville and also the kind offices of Mr. Fletcher,
who has introduced me to many of his profession
in this city. It was through him that I came to
176
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 177
know Judge Blackford/ concerning whom, his abil-
ity and his hermit-like life in his room in the Gov-
ernor's Mansion I had heard so many stories that
I formed a great desire to meet him.
It was with considerable curiosity that I ap-
proached the ** Mansion," which until now I had
viewed only from afar. This location in the center
of the Circle was chosen, I was told, because it is
central, and lies away from the main business street
with its disturbing uproar and constant crowd of
passengers. The Circle is inclosed in a neat rail
fence ; the house is large and square, two full stories
high, with a low, slightly inclined roof covering an
attic story, lighted by a dormer window on each of
the four sides. On the roof is a ''flat" about twelve
feet square, surrounded by a low balustrade, in-
tended for a resort in the cool of the evening, and
it is, indeed, a pleasant place to overlook the town,
since the Circle is the highest point in the plat of
the city. The floor of the first story is raised some
four feet or so above the ground, and is reached by
a broad flight of steps at each side. It is divided
off from north to south and east to west by two
wide halls crossing at right angles, making a large
room in each of the four corners, and the partitions
^ Isaac Blackford, born in New Jersey, 1786; graduate of Princeton
University; came to Indiana in 1813; clerk of territorial Legis-
lature; resigned to become judge of the First Judicial Circuit; first
located in Salem, moved later to Vincennes. Appointed by Governor
Jennings as judge of the Supreme Court, which position he held for
thirty-five years. In 1855 appointed by President Pierce as judge
of the Court of Claims at Washington, where he died in 1859. "His
reputation was at that time and still is, world wide." {Turpie.) —
Editor.
178 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
on this floor are made with sliding panels, so that
they can be thrown into one room on the occasion
of a ball or levee.
The State Library, as yet very small, has its home
here, and Mr. Fletcher informed me that the Sec-
retary of State is the librarian and keeps the library
in his office in this building. When he told me the
small sum allowed by the Legislature each year for
the purchase of books, I did not so much wonder at
its size. In 1825, said Mr. Fletcher, when an act of
Legislature made the Secretary of State the State
Librarian, $50 was appropriated for the purchase of
books and a continuing appropriation of $30 a year.
I noted the beginnings of an excellent library — the
Federalist, Hume's ''History of England,'* John-
son's ''Lives of the Poets" and some few others.
The Supreme Court occupies the upper rooms as
chambers, and it was to this upper floor that we
turned our steps to meet this judge who, Mr.
Fletcher and Mr. Merrill both declared to me, is a
man who has attained great eminence in judicature
both by natural talents and unceasing industry.
"We found the little room — the upper rooms in
the Mansion are much smaller than those on the
floor below — plainly but comfortably furnished. I
scarcely noticed the. furniture, however, nothing par-
ticularly except the tables laden with books and mag-
azines, and the desk piled with papers, for my at-
tention was at once absorbed by the man himself.
Judge Blackford is not six feet tall, but carries
himself so erect that he seems taller; his head is
shapely, his face indicative both of intellectuality
THE GOVERNOR'/ HOUSE, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 1840
Pen drawing by Willard Osier
A TOUE THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 179
and refinement. His movements are rapid and
graceful. He took some papers from the chairs,
urged us to seat ourselves, and when Mr. Fletcher
explained the object of our visit, that I was a
stranger from another state, and particularly when
my legal studies and my acquaintance with Judge
Eggleston were mentioned, he made minute inquiries
into my journey to the Western country and gave
me much information concerning my future prog-
ress. When I assured him, in answer to his query,
that I am going on to the Wabash country, he im-
mediately insisted on writing some letters to friends
at Vincennes, his home, for though a sojourner in
the capital, he still considers that place his actual
home.
''Every year since coming to Indianapolis," said
he, ''I have spent a part of my time in that town,
a town you must see, sir; a town most intimately
connected with the beginnings of our state.'*
With that, he turned to his desk, and began writ-
ing the letters, most painstakingly and carefully.
Mr. Fletcher told me afterward of this peculiarity
of Judge Blackford — that he is prudish in the man-
ner of writing his opinions. The orthography must
be perfect and the punctuation faultless before the
matter leaves his hand. 'Tis said he pays as much
attention to a comma as to a thought. He has been
known to stop the press to correct the most trivial
error, one that few would notice. Once some one,
wishing to delay an opinion, asked him the correct
spelling of a word he knew would be in the opinion.
The Judge answered, giving the usual orthography.
180 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
The other took issue with him, and argued that the
spelling wa« not correct. The Judge at once com-
menced an examination of the word, dug out its
roots and carefully weighed all the authorities he
could find. He spent two days at this work, and
before he got through, the court had adjourned and
the case went over to the next term.
It was not surprising then that we waited some
time while his quill was trimmed, the paper ad-
justed, the letters composed, sanded, folded and ad-
dressed in his neat, careful and interesting chirog-
raphy. Then we lingered a little for conversation
on books, on politics, on many subjects. It seems
that Judge Blackford was originally a Whig, but
supporting Van Buren in 1836, has remained a
Democrat.
Judge Blackford told me a story of an accident
which happened to him on one of his journeys to
Vincennes, in which he came very near to losing his
life. On horseback, equipped with overcoat, leg-
gings and saddlebags full of law books, he under-
took to ford "White River near Martinsville while
the river was very much swollen by a freshet. He
and his horse were swept down the stream a great
distance, but eventually they landed on an island.
The judge was wet and cold and it was several hours
before he reached the mainland, being at last res-
cued by a farmer, who had heard his outcries. He
spent a couple of days in drying his law books and
clothing and in waiting for the waters to fall low
enough for him to cross the river with safety, and
then proceeded with his journey.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 181
Similar experience I had heard from other law-
yers, from Judge Eggleston at Brookville, and at a
gathering which I attended at the office of a lawyer
one evening during my stay here. I had heard much
of the meetings of the lawyers of this new state, and
the good fellowship that exists among them, and it
was no other than the shy and quiet Mr. Yandes
whom I had met the evening I went to prayer meet-
ing with Mr. Beecher and with whom, despite his
reserve, I have formed a friendship based upon our
youth and similarity of tastes, who invited me to go
with him to the gathering. Mr. Yandes began the
practice of the law with Mr. Fletcher, who declares
him to be remarkably equipped, being a young man
of fine mind and a graduate of Harvard College in
Massachusetts. We have indeed spent some time
in discussing the similarities and differences be-
tween this and the University, as we Virginians al-
ways call Mr. Jefferson's great school.
This meeting to which Mr. Yandes took me was
held in the office of Mr. Lucian Barbour.^
Mr. Barbour's office, it turns out, is directly across
the street from my tavern, Washington Hall, and
here the lawyers of the city are wont to congregate,
exchange jests, sometimes very cutting ones at each
other's expense, play practical jokes on one another,
play cards, — this custom is frowned upon in this
community, but none the less 'tis whispered that
* Sulgrove in his history of Indianapolis expresses a doubt as to
the time of Mr. Barbour's coming to Indianapolis, but the Indian-
apolis papers for June, 1840, print his legal advertisement and this,
together with Mr. Parsons's entry, verify the statement that he was
in the city at this time. — Editor.
182 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
some of these men are inveterate gamblers, — and
as often engage in most serious and edifying dis-
cussions.
On this same evening, I met at the inn another
one of the Supreme Court judges. Judge Dewey,
whose home is at Charlestown, in Clark County, near
the Ohio River, who was appointed a judge of this
court four years ago. When Mr. Yandes came for
me this gentleman was sitting on the recessed portico
of the inn, and when Mr. Yandes presented me to
him, he remarked that he, too, was going to the
office of Mr. Barbour, and would accompany us.
He is, I observed, large and commanding in per-
son, at least six feet tall, with black hair, dark com-
plexion, high forehead, and very expressive mouth.
I should pronounce him extremely handsome were
it not that his nose and chin are too long to be sym-
metrical, but this is more than overbalanced by the
intelligence and dignity of his expression. I found
him excellently educated, — he is a native of Massa-
chusetts and a graduate of Williams College, — and
a great reader. He is very fond of novels, being
conversant with those of Fielding, Sterne and Smol-
lett, I learned from our conversation, this too, in
a region where novel reading is frowned upon by
the churches, and in spite of the fact that he is him-
self a devout member of the church known as the
Disciples or Christian.
He is also, I was soon to learn, extremely fond
of joking and very quick at repartee. In this he is
no whit excelled by Oliver H. Smith, whom I met
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 183
this same evening, much to my satisfaction, as I had
heard of him through Judge Eggleston, under whom
he was licensed to practice law and with whom he
came frequently in contact during his residence in
Connersville, where he followed the practice until
last year, when he removed to Indianapolis. He
has served in the Legislature, and as circuit prose-
cuting attorney and United States senator. His
most striking feature is his dark hair, which stands
straight up from his forehead. He told me an amus-
ing incident concerning his election to the Senate,
in which his competitors were Noah Noble, William
Hendricks and Ratliff Boon. On the first ballot he
fell behind both Governor Noble and Governor
Hendricks, but on the eighth took the lead, and on
the ninth was elected. On his return home, after
election, he started to Cincinnati with a drove of
hogs.
*'Late in the evening," said he, **I reached
Henrie 's Mansion House in Cincinnati, covered with
mud. There were many inquiries about the result
of our senatorial election; I was asked if there had
been an election.
* ' ' Wliich is elected, Hendricks or Noble ? '
" * Neither.'
"'Who, then, can it be r
** *I am elected.*
" 'You! What is your name? Oliver H. Smith!
You elected a United States senator? I never heard
of you before!* '*
Mr. Smith is an irrepressible talker, jovial and
184 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
apparently possessed of a most happy disposition,
and, I noted, of great popularity among his asso-
ciates at the bar.
Among others I met on this evening, were Wil-
liam Quarles, an excellent criminal lawyer, I am
told; Ovid Butler, a gentleman with whom I was
much impressed, a fine lawyer, so they say, in man-
ner plain, quiet, modest and gentlemanly, and a
young Hugh O'Neal, who is a native of this county
and who has been educated at the State College as
one of the two students to which each county is
entitled, and who has just been admitted to the bar.
He is already something of an orator, and is a Whig
in politics. He is well-known among the young peo-
ple, and I have met him on more than one occasion.
Noting the pleasure these gentlemen found in each
other's company, though of various tastes, some, as
Mr. Fletcher, for instance, being most abstemious,
others, I was told, being addicted to both drinking
and gambling, I was led to marvel over what drew
and kept them together, and was told that in the
first place all were alike in being men of fine natural
endowment, liberal acquirement, sedulous occupa-
tion, integrity, dignity, courtesy, and learning, and
being thus endowed, find each other's society most
congenial.
Moreover, their method of life in itself has tended
to draw them together. Their riding the circuit is
as laborious as that of the minister, who I now learn
is not the only circuit rider. A Mr. Hiram Brown,
a lawyer whom I had met on a previous occasion,
and who came to this city in 1823, a man unlike most
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 185
of these others, it would seem, in that he was born
in the West with, therefore, poorer educational op-
portunities, and who has acquired, all say, a most
excellent command of English because of his con-
stant reading, this Mr. Bro^vn, a man now 48 years
old, told me something of the hardships of circuit
riding, something of which I had already heard from
Judge Eggleston. The judicial circuits are large
ones, and the roads lead through the wilderness in
many cases, particularly near the capital city. It
involves weeks of absence from home, swimming
swollen rivers, sleeping in the woods. It is at all
times tedious and laborious, and in some seasons
difficult.
These lawyers, meeting together at the trial
court, make the most of their stay at the country
taverns, spending their leisure time in discussions
of legal questions, in which they display the keen-
est zest and philosophic foresight. "When the ses-
sion is ended, all wait to accompany the judge on
the journey to his next appointment and the end of
the session is celebrated in a session of another kind,
at the tavern. Then they may indeed be called a
convivial fraternity — for those who drink, drink;
cards are played by those who do not share the re-
ligious convictions of the church-going, and the walls
ring with songs, old ballads, comic songs, while those
who abstain from such exercises as these, bandy
jokes, for almost all are veteran jokers, I am told,
and even able to enjoy jokes on themselves — and my
informant concluded with the statement that while
there are many hardships to be endured in riding
186 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
the circuit, after all they can be endured while the
circuit riders continue to have good appetites, and
to find cheerful landlords and good-natured land-
ladies, and while all are banded together like
brothers.
Lest it should slip my mind, I must jot down in
this entry the names of several whom I would not
forget, and yet have not time to write of in detail —
Morris Morris, father of my friend, Capt. T. A. Mor-
ris, at whose home I met two Methodist ministers of
note, the Rev. Allen Wiley, and the venerable man
known as Father Havens; Mr. Nicholas McCarty,
one of the town's best business men, a man of re-
markable shrewdness and sagacity, and withal one
of the friendliest, kindest, most generous citizens
of the town ; W. H. Morrison, through whose activity
and generous assistance Christ Church, the Epis-
copal meeting house on the Circle, was built, a
frame edifice with a spire, said to be the most beau-
tiful house of worship in the state. And I must not
forget William Sheets, who was Secretary of State
in 1836, and at whose house, a beautiful brick cot-
tage at Ohio and Pennsylvania Streets, I called, on
learning that Mrs. Sheets is a Randolph, and a
cousin of my mother's several times removed. I
found her, I will add, both accomplished and charm-
ing, and she played for me on her piano, one of the
few of these instruments in the city.
I had not forgotten Mr. Duncan's mention to me
of the evening at the pleasure garden, to which I
have been looking forward since it was first men-
tioned, and particularly after my disappointment as
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 187
to the ball. Mr. Vance had suggested to me the pos-
sibility of a ball during my stay in the city, but he
was forced to tell me later that the sentiment of the
church people against this manner of entertainment
is so strong that the young people who had thought
to make my presence an excuse for holding it were
forced to give up the plan. It seems that in 1823,
when Washington Hall was first opened, a ball was
given in celebration of the event, of which my friend
Mr. Fletcher was one of the managers; and that a
few years later a ball was given at the Governor's
Mansion whose managers included Judge Blackford,
Judge Wick, Dr. John S. Bobbs, Capt. T. A. Morris
and others, but the opposition to this or any other
form of light amusement by the churches was pres-
ent even then, and has increased more and more with
each year, so that dancing now is not to be con-
sidered. Even the performance of plays is frowned
upon, and the only amusements tolerated are church
parties, evening parties, such as I had attended at
Mrs. Bolton's, invited receptions at which standing
suppers are served, and the levees occasionally held
by the Governor, at which no refreshments are
served and all the world is invited.
I was the more delighted with the prospect of
the evening excursion to the pleasure garden, be-
cause of an unexpected and most delightful meeting
with one of the most beautiful young females I
have ever seen.
I first discovered her on the portico of the inn,
one morning. This inn is an imposing three-story
brick structure, with a large and beautiful recessed
188 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
portico, most suitable for promenading, and it lias
been my custom each morning, on rising, to descend
for a turn or two in the fresh air before partaking of
my breakfast. Here she sat, bent low over some
needle work on which she was engaged, and I could
but note how much of expression was centered in
the delicate arch of her brow, which spanned eyes
whose hue I could not guess. She seemed not to
observe my intrusion on her solitude, but when pres-
ently Mr. Browning emerged from the hall and pre-
sented me to his daughter, but just returned from a
visit to some neighboring hamlet, I was allowed to
observe for a moment how soft was the melting
luster of her dark blue eyes, how surpassingly en-
ticing the sweetness of her smile. Later, I learned
from the young gentlemen, what I should have
guessed without this information, that this young
Miss Elizabeth is one of the belles of the city.
With this same Miss Elizabeth 'twas arranged
that I was to go to the pleasure garden,^ and thither
accordingly, on the evening of this same day, we took
our way, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Vance, who
had been visiting at the home of Mrs. Vance's father,
Mr. Hervey Bates, the residence being not very far
away, on New Jersey Street. Mr. Bates, whom I
have met, is a successful business man, was the first
sheriff of the county, and is a very warm friend of
Mr. Beecher, of whose church he is a member.
Mr. and Mrs. Vance drove past for us, and as we
passed along Washington Street and down Illinois,
•The ''pleasure garden " was at the corner of Tennessee and
Georgia Streets, the corner now occupied by St. John 's.— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 189
they pointed out various objects of interest to me,
among them the store of Mr. Pope, a ''steam doc-
tor" recently come here from Baltimore, who not
only practices this system of medication, but keeps
a store stocked with vegetable remedies, prickly ash,
lobelia, pocoon, cohosh, May Apple root, and prep-
arations which go by the names of "liquid flames,'*
''bread of heaven," and others, over which names
we made merry, as indeed it was easy to do, in such
pleasant weather, with such lively young company.
I had put on my best blue broadcloth, with the plated
gold buttons, a buff vest, and a high hat, and Mr.
Vance was similarly attired. Mrs. Vance wore a
blue striped silk with a lace mantle, and Miss Eliza-
beth 's frock was pure white with green crepe shawl.
Beneath the rim of her bonnet, half-hidden, moss
rose buds were peeping, symbol of maiden mod-
esty I
The pleasure garden, while within the plat of the
city, is so remote as to be really in the country, and
when we at last came to it I was amazed at its beauty
and the taste with which it is laid out.
The proprietor is an Englishman, by name John
Hodgkins, and 'tis said 'tis marvelous what a trans-
formation he has worked here. The acre on which
it stands contains an ice house, where he stores ice
for the freezing of his creams, and the confectionery
where he manufactures his wares, and the remainder
of the grounds is covered with an orchard of apples
and other fruit trees under which are arranged
rustic seats. Flower beds dot the plat, and wind-
ing graveled paths lead to vine-clad bowers and
190 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
summer houses; altogether a more charming place
and a more delightful company was never looked
upon.
Here came together most of the young people I
have met during my stay in the city — the fair Miss
Mary Sanders, accompanied by Mr. Duncan, the two
pretty Miss Browns, and a number of other young
females whose names I have already forgotten, Mr.
Hugh O'Neal, Mr. Vance Noel, Mr. Nat and Mr.
John Cook, both accomplished Thespians, and Mr.
Ned Tyler, member of the brass band and most ac-
complished Thespian of them all.
Never, surely, have I passed a more enchanting
evening than this one in the pleasure garden, nor
one with more variety of entertainment; the back-
ground of green and flowers setting oft' the delicate
costumes of the young females, the handsome young
men, the flushed cheek, the bright eye, the whispered
compliment. We walked in couples about the grav-
eled paths, we sat in the summer houses, we gath-
ered together over our creams and confections, and
then, our conversation. ''Ah, the dalliance and the
wit,'' as Shakespeare puts it. 'Twas then, as we
lingered, with twilight falling, and the stars hang-
ing low over us, that Mr. Tyler, at our solicitation,
sang — a new song and one most beautiful and touch-
ing. 'Tis called, ' ' Isle of Beauty, Fare Thee Well. ' '
I had already perused it, but was not prepared for
its excessive beauty and its sadness, when sung in
such a voice, and with such surroundings. The last
verse— I shall not soon forget it— I will here tran-
scribe ;
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 191
' ' When the waves are round me breaking,
As I pace the deck alone,
And my eye in vain is seeking
Some green leaf to rest upon;
What would I not give to wander
Where my OAvn companions dwell ?
Absence makes the heart grow fonder,
Isle of Beauty, fare thee well ! ' '
My heart was seized with a strange foreboding.
This, this was the Isle of Beauty, this little city
where I have been made so welcome, and I — I am
the one who is leaving these companions of a few
days. Will they forget me? We left the tables
soon after the song, for another perambulating of
the graveled walks preparatory to our leave-taking,
for twilight was now falling and we must return to
the city. I still remained with Miss Elizabeth, whom
I had discovered in our conversation to be a young
lady of singular accomplishments and charms, and
we wandered silently about, past the vine-draped
arbors, the little bowers, until summoned by the
others.
I spoke little until our arrival at the inn, then,
having bade farewell to the others with a forced
gayety, I asked her, as she lingered on the portico,
for a flower she had plucked in the garden and still
held in her slender fingers. She gave it to me, blush-
ing, but laughing, too, at my melancholy face.
*'If 'twill but make you smile, sir," she said.
**Be not so melancholy! No one is dead, nor likely
to be, and you will find it just as merry, I'll venture
to say, the next place you go!"
Her light laugh followed me up the stairway.
192 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
The stage on which I am to journey northward
to.Logansport makes two trips a week, and belongs
to the line of a Mr. Vigus of Logansport. The
stage line is a new one, having been in operation only
two years, and the stages, which I have already ob-
served during my stay here, are fine, new and shin-
ing, drawn by four horses, and carrying the United
States mails. I am told that they cost $600 a piece,
and that they are a matter of great pride to the
settlers along the road. The Michigan Road on
which they run is -a great thoroughfare during eight
months of the year, I am told, and affords an open
passable highway to a new and very attractive coun-
try, but during the winter 'tis an endless stream of
black mud, almost impassable.
I shall close my diary now until my arrival at
Logansport, as some of my young friends are com-
ing to bid me'Grodspeed on my journey. My clothes
are packed, my carpet bags locked, I shall soon be
embarked for the Wabash country !
CHAPTER XII
LoGANSpoRT, June 26, 1840.
IT was a cool, pleasant June morning when I took
my seat in the Vigus line coach, having bade
farewell to my young friends who had gathered
to see me go. The coach was not crowded, as fre-
quently happens, and I found myself seated -next
to a gentleman of most pleasing appearance — aJittle
below the medium height, compactly built, with
ruddy complexion, blue eyes, and light bro^vn hair.
It was not long until we fell into conversation, for
I had many questions to ask, and I presently learned
that he was Mr. Edward A. Hannegan ^ of Coving-
ton, of whom I had already heard as Democratic
candidate for Congress against Mr. Henry S. Lane
of Crawfordsville.
It appeared, in the course of our conversation,
that Mr. Hannegan loves the Wabash country
greatly, and when he learned that I was from Vir-
ginia and on a voyage of discovery, he gave me
many most interesting details concerning the coun-
try and its settlement, in which he was joined by
other gentlemen passengers, so that I found my
^E. A. Hannegan, born in Ohio, studied law in Kentucky, located
at Covington, Ind. Entered politics. State Legislature, 1833. Con-
gress, 1835. Defeated for Congress, 1840. United States Senate,
1845. Minister to Prussia, 1849. Recalled, Died in St. Louis,
1859.— Editor.
193
194 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
journey, while much slower than I had expected,
occupying, as it did, over two days, very instructive
and edifying.
Mr. Hannegan informed me that he could never
endure to remain long away from the ** lovely val-
ley of the Wabash," and that while in Washington
he longed for it continually. He dwelt at length
upon its beauty and the fertility of the soil, on the
alternating prairies and hills, and then, of the stream
itself, extending from the northern part of the state
to its southernmost tip, and forming part of its west-
ern boundary. Its whole length exceeds 500 miles,
and there is but a very small distance that does not
present an inviting soil to the agriculturist. The
name of this stream in French was Ouabache, and
it appears to have been discovered before the Ohio,
and is found on maps before the year 1730 ; the Ohio
at its mouth was called the Ouabache. Settlements
were made at a very early period at Vincennes and
at the mouth of the Wea or Ouiatenon, where the
Jesuits had their missions and schools, and the bark
canoes of the Indians and French, these gentlemen
declared to me, at certain seasons of the year passed
from Lake Erie to the Mississippi, by way of the
Maumee, a short portage to Little River and the
Wabash.
From Mr. Hannegan and my other companions,
I learned much of great tides of immigration that
some years ago had set toward this part of the state.
'Twas said that in 1834, the streets of Indianapolis
were one moving mass of men, women and chil-
dren, carriages, wagons, cattle, horses, hogs and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 195
slieep, all joyously wending their way to their new
habitations in the Wabash country. As many as
twenty to^vns, 'tis said, were laid out in this re-
gion from 1827 to 1834 ; in 1827 'twas reported that
200 families passed through Centerville bound for
the Wabash country in the months of September and
October. This statement was made by one of the
passengers, a young gentleman residing in Carroll
County, so he said, who was a boy at the time, and
remembered that as his family passed through Rich-
mond and Centerville they were annoyed continually
by the croaking predictions of ill luck uttered on all
sides. *'You will never get through," said one.
*'You will die if you go to the Wabash; every one
that goes there dies in less than a year," said an-
other. This, I presume, from the ** Wabash ague"
of which my friend, Dr. Peabody of Vernon, had
told me, which is so much more dangerous to life
than the ordinary *' chills and fever" of the other
settlements.
My fellow travelers explained to me that these
settlers all poured along the roads that centered in
Indianapolis, taking from there the Crawfordsville
or Terre Haute trails. When the building of the
canals began in 1827 the crowd swelled still more,
for speculators held out great inducements to
city builders and to settlers along the canal
routes.
This Michigan Road over which we were travel-
ing begins, it seems, at Lake Michigan and runs
south to Indianapolis, then south again to Madison,
its purpose being altogether similar to that of the
196 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Cumberland or National Road. Until its construc-
tion some years ago, there was no way for travelers
to reach the northern part of the state save by In-
dian trails. However, this road, agreed the passen-
gers, is no easy or comfortable route. I marveled
at this, for to me the travel seemed easy enough,
save for an occasional jolting over the corduroys.
However, my companions reminded me that there
had been no rain for some time. Had there been,
summer though it is, they informed me, we would
be finding ourselves jolting from one bog to another,
at one moment on an almost floating bridge of cor-
duroys ; at another mired in a mudhole and all alight-
ing to lend assistance in dragging and pushing the
coach out again.
I rejoiced, therefore, at my good fortune at find-
ing such fair weather and looked forth with some
curiosity on the landscape, interrogating my com-
panions at frequent intervals.
Passing through the county of Marion and a cor-
ner of Hamilton County, we came into Boone, the
first stop being Eagle Village, a pleasant town of
about thirty houses.
This county was named, I am told, after the cele-
brated Daniel Boone, whose love of forest life, enter-
prise, and disinterestedness were prototypes of
much that is admirable in Western manners. The
country is level or agreeably undulating, and the
soU is very fertile, and in no part of the state, they
say, is the timber heavier or of better quality. One
of my informants, the young gentleman from Car-
roll County, declared that it is not uncommou to
A TOUE THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840 197
see on a single acre 100 oak trees averaging four
inches in diameter, and from eighty to 100 feet in
height. The principal products, he informed me,
are wheat, corn, beef, pork, honey, etc., and cattle,
hogs, horses and mules are driven to market.
This conversation suggested a most amusing in-
cident to an elderly gentleman who had heretofore
remained silent.
"You must understand, young sir," said he, ad-
dressing me, ''that in the thirteen or more years
that have elapsed since the settling of this county,
great changes have occurred. The heavy timber,
level surface, and porous soil of Boone were not very
attractive to the agriculturist at the first settlement
and accordingly the pursuit of game and the col-
lection of skins, furs and wild honey were reckoned
far more important than any kind of farming. The
only real necessaries for a family at that time were
two rifles, powder and lead, a barrel of salt, a camp
kettle, and a couple of dogs. At this time, the only
currency was the skins of deer, raccoons, mink and
wild honey, and even now, though we have a con-
siderable number of farmers, a large amount of
money is made by these hunters and trappers, some
even acquiring as much as five thousand dollars a
year.
*'In these early days," he continued, ** 'tis said
that a traveler from Cincinnati came hither in com-
pany with a resident of the county and encountered
on the road a man whose horse was so covered with
the skins of 'varmints' as almost to hide both horse
and rider, and the only information he could get was
198 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
that this was the collector of the county seat with
the 'funds' from one of the townships."
When asked if this were true, he replied with a
laugh: ''Well, at any rate, the story found its way
into the newspapers, and those who gave full credit
to the statement must have supposed the collector
of Boone had an odd set of customers to collect his
poll tax from. The coon skins, it was said, were
for the state, the deer for county revenue and the
mink for change."
When we laughed over this, he told another story
to illustrate to me the rudeness of pioneer life. In
those early days one of the judges, who, for want
of other accommodations, had taken his luncheon to
court, was supposed at a distance to be reading a
newspaper, when, on nearer approach, it was ascer-
tained that he was eating a large buckwheat pan-
cake!
Noting the considerable difference in vegetation
in this and the lands contiguous to the Ohio River,
I made inquiries concerning both fauna and flora,
and set them down in order in my book, as they were
enumerated to me. I did this at a tavern where the
mail was being sorted. The mail pouch is carried
under the driver's seat, and as the pouches are
scarce in this new country, the stage is compelled to
stand at the small towns along the line while the
postmaster opens the pouch and makes up the out-
going mail.
As to the quadrupeds, I was informed that the
buffalo long ago disappeared, but their bones are
found about the "salt licks," and their paths known
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 199
as ''traces" were frequently used as trails by the
first settlers. The bear, panther, wild cat, beaver
and others are now but seldom met with except in
the unsettled parts of the state. Wolves are more
numerous. But the deer, opossum, raccoon, and
several species of squirrels are sometimes more nu-
merous than when the country was first settled.
When nuts and other food they are fond of in the
forest fail, they migrate to the vicinity of the culti-
vated fields and supply themselves there, and their
numbers are sometimes immense. Besides these,
the fox, porcupine, polecat, ground hog, rabbit, mink,
muskrat, weasel, mole, mouse and gopher are found
in particular localities, but not usually in great num-
bers. In place of the animals that have left, others
have been gained by migration. Rats are not yet
found in new parts of the state, but they are be-
coming very numerous in other parts.
Singing birds were rare a few years since, but a
variety has rapidly followed the increase of civili-
zation. Not being carnivorous, they are not usually
found except where fields of grain are cultivated.
Of birds originally found in this country, the most
common are the wild turkey, prairie fowl, partridge
or quail, pigeons, geese, ducks and cranes. Pheas-
ants, paroquets, woodpeckers, Baltimore birds, red
birds, mocking birds, humming birds, indeed, most
of the birds of the Eastern states are found here,
but not usually in large numbers. Of carnivorous
birds, the eagle, the buzzard, the hawk, the crow
or raven, the owl, etc., are occasionally found.
Two most interesting facts concerning these birds :
200 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
There are here great numbers of wild pigeons, so
vast indeed that sometimes in flight they obscure the
sun. They sometimes resort to roosts in such large
numbers that for miles nearly all the small branches
of a thick forest are broken off by them. The sec-
ond concerns the cranes. On the large prairies in
the northwest part of the state it is not uncommon,
I was assured, to pass in a single hour thousands of
sand hill cranes who stand quietly and gaze at the
traveler from a distance of but a few rods.
Reptiles abound, the most formidable being the
copperhead and the rattlesnake, and many a pioneer
has had a gruesome story to tell of encounters with
these formidable foes, whose bite is so poisonous as
to occasion death. However, the fires on the prai-
ries destroy them and the hogs running at large are
their inveterate enemies.
One gentleman, who seemed inclined to an interest
in scientific matters, informed me that Dr. Richard
Dale Owen reports that none of the precious metals
will ever be found in Indiana, unless in minute por-
tions in bowlders or in small quantities in combina-
tion with other metals. This Dr. Owen, I learned to
my great pleasure, is a brother of Robert Dale Owen,
and a scientist of great repute, and when State Geol-
ogist made exploratory tours of the state and pub-
lished the result of this in a volume entitled ** Re-
port of a Geological Reconnaissance of the State of
Indiana."
We had by this time come into Clinton County
and approached the village of Kirklin, named after
its proprietor, Nathan Kirk, this and Michigantown
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 201
being the only towns in this county on the Michigan
Road. Thence we passed into Cass County, of which
Logansport is the seat of justice and the objective
point of my journey.
A part of this county, I was informed, is level and
consists of prairie land; the other, either bottom
land, along the rivers, or high bluff land. The
Wabash and the Eel Rivers run swiftly through this
county; they have high banks and solid rock bot-
toms, and afford an immense amount of water power.
A gentleman, a fellow passenger, who later gave
me interesting information concerning the Indians,
informed me that in a prairie southeast of Logans-
port there is a spring that boils up from the center
of the mound, six feet above the level surface of the
prairie. Three miles below Logansport is a stream
that turns a saw mill on the top of a bluff 150 feet
high, and then pitches down the whole distance with
but few interruptions. This stream has its source
only a mile and a half in the rear of the bluff.
Two points clearly mark the difference between
this and the earlier parts of my journey. This part
of the country being so much more recently settled
is much less advanced — the life is much more that
of the pioneer than in the other localities visited.
Also, there is much that is interesting connected with
the aborigines. Frequently, on the road hither, the
sites of villages were pointed out to me that were
very recently entirely inhabited by Indians and a
few French traders. The country about Logansport
was inhabited, I am told, by the Pottawotamies and
the Miamis, the former being the OAvners and pro-
202 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
prietors of tlie lands north of tlie Wabash, and the
Miamis, south, and both dwelling along the Eel.
I have already spoken of the Black Hawk War in
connection with the story of the ''Bloody Three Hun-
dred" in Indianapolis. It was this war that caused
the settlers to be continually uneasy over their In-
dian neighbors ; undoubtedly, too, these settlers cast
covetous eyes on the Indian lands. There was con-
tinual trouble between them, and various treaties
and purchases made until finally the Pottawotamies
were removed to a reservation in the West.^
' "The best illustration of the attitude which the Indiana settlers
bore toward the Indians is their treatment of the Pottawotamies,
whom they forcibly expelled from the state in 1838. The Potta-
wotamies originally hunted over the region south of Lake Michigan,
north of the Wabash and west of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's Rivers.
As early as 1817, in a treaty at Fort Meigs, the government adopted
the unfortunate policy of making special reservations for Indian
chiefs who refused to join the tribe in selling land. As a result of
this policy, several bands of Pottawotamies had special reservations
in Marshall and adjoining counties. Tlie treaty of 1832 took from
the tribe its tribal lands, leaving the chief Menominee a reservation
around Twin Lakes. ... In fact, the Indians claimed and occupied
the whole county except a strip of land which they had given the
state for the Michigan Road. ... In 1834 a commission tried to buy
the land. . . . Col. Abel C. Pepper, Indian agent, finally succeeded
in buying the Indians out at $1 an acre, and giving them the
privilege of remaining two years on the land. The Indians asserted
that this cession was obtained by unfair means. Anticipating the
sale which was to take place when the Indian lease expired, Aug. 5,
1838, the squatters began to enter the country and settle on Indian
land. . . . The Indians began to show resentment as the time for
their forced migration approached. . . . Tliey made no excuses for
their outbreaks and refused to leave their homes. . . . Squads of
soldiers patrolled the country in all directions looking for the In-
dians and driving them in. . . . All the Indian cabins and wigwams
were destroyed. . . . Early on the morning of Sept. 4, Tipton com-
menced to load the thirteen army wagons in which their goods was
to be removed (their destination was the Osage River, Kansas).
The journey required about two months and cost the lives of one-
fifth of the tribe." {Esarey.) — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 203
Two of the gentlemen in the coach told me some-
thing of the incident of the removal. One of them,
a Mr. Sluyter, said, '^I lived near the Menominee
village at that time, just north of Twin Lakes, and
was present when the Indians were congregating
there in September to be removed to the new reser-
vation. Their village was composed of seventy-five
or a hundred log huts and wigwams of poles covered
with bark or matting, erected without any system.
The soldiers disarmed the Indians, taking from them
their guns, tomahawks, axes, bows and arrows,
knives, etc., and placed them in wagons for trans-
portation. They marched off in single file, a soldier
at the head of about every forty or fifty. It was
indeed a sad sight to see them leaving their homes
and hunting grounds, where many of them had lived
all their lives, and going to a strange land concern-
ing which they knew nothing. Over 800 started on
that September morning. After they left the wig-
wams were torn down and burned."
A younger man, not over 22 I should judge, said
that he went with the caravan to Kansas as a team-
ster, driving a four-horse team. The Indians, he
said, were afraid of the wagons and could not be
induced to ride in them unless so feeble that walk-
ing was impossible. He told of their sufferings
from hunger, thirst and fatigue.
It was with considerable curiosity that I ap-
proached Logansport, named, I was told, for the In-
dian chief of that name, and I was not disappointed
in my anticipations. It lies in the center of the
county, and has a most beautiful situation in the
204 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
valleys of the Wabash and the Eel, occupying ground
between the two rivers at their junction, with the
hills rising to a height of 150 feet to the north and
south. The town thus lying in the valley with two
rivers flowing through it and uniting their waters
at its very heart, presents a most picturesque
aspect.
The interest and importance of the town are en-
hanced moreover by the Wabash and Erie Canal,
which is to extend from the northeast to the south-
west corners of the state, from the city of Fort
Wayne to Evansville on the Ohio River, and a part
of which is already completed. Of this canal I ex-
pect soon to know more, as the next stage of my .
journey is to be made on its waters.
I stopped at the Mansion House, kept by a Mr.
Douglass, which I found an agreeable resting place,
and fitted up in good style. As my stay in this city
was to be very brief, I hastened at once to seek out
Mr. D. D. Pratt,^ to whom I had a letter from Mr.
Calvin Fletcher, in whose office Mr. Pratt had once
engaged in the practice of the law. I observed the
town with much interest as I passed along; it has
less than 1,000 inhabitants, I judge, but because of
its location on rivers and canal and its plentiful
water power, gives promise of flourishing growth.
I noted its bridge, a handsome covered structure
'Hon. D. D. Pratt, born in Maine, 1813; died in Logansport, 1877.
Graduate of Hamilton College, 1831. For twenty- five years he was
without a rival in northern Indiana before a jury. Presidential
elector, 1848; Legislature, 1851-3; secretary of national convention
at Chicago, which nominated Lincoln, 1860; Congress, 1868; Senate,
1869. "Pratt is the most absolutely honest man I ever knew,"
said Wendell Phillips. — Editor.
. A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 205
over the Wabash, its Market House, a roof on brick
pillars, much frequented by farmers I am told, its
library, a substantial log building, and a brick edi-
fice which I later learned is the Seminary.
Mr. Pratt, whom I found to be but a few years
older than myself, is a most interesting young man.
He is tall in stature, something over six feet, and
well proportioned, possessing unusual conversational
powers, and having a fluent command of the most
classic English.
Mr. Fletcher, who has taken the greatest interest
in him, had told me much concerning his life. He
was born in Maine and passed his early life in New
England, in adverse circumstances, but his father,
early perceiving his mental powers, gave him an ex-
cellent education. He taught, studied law, and came
out to Ohio, journeying part of the way on foot,
taught at Rising Sun, Indiana, and in 1836 arrived
in Indianapolis, where he went into Mr. Fletcher's
office. Later, he located in Cass County and as Mr.
Fletcher, together with many other attorneys, prac-
tice in this court, he has been able to continue their
friendship. Mr. Fletcher, so Mr. Pratt informs me,
was one of the first practitioners in the courts of
this county, and ranks as high here as he does in
his own home. Here also came James Rariden of
Wayne County, whom I met during my stay there,
and many other of the la\^^ers, of whose long and
tedious journeys I have spoken before.
Like the other residents of the Wabash country,
Mr. Pratt loves it, and has great hope of its future.
He told me with much enthusiasm of the town and
206 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
its people, and dwelt at length on one of its pioneers,
Gen. Jolin Tipton.*
This Gen. Tipton, it appears, who conferred honor
on the city by his residence here and had much to do
with the state's early history, died here only last
year. Coming to Indiana in early days, he first set-
tled on the Ohio River and joined the ^'Yellow Jack-
ets, ' ' a military company which played an important
part at the battle of Tippecanoe, where, because of
so many being killed, 'tis said, he rose in one day
from the rank of ensign to that of captain. Later,
serving in the Legislature, he was one of those
chosen to select the site of the state's capital, and in
1823 was made Indian agent. At this time he re-
moved to Fort Wayne, the seat of the agency, and
a little later at his instance this agency was removed
to Logansport. After this he served as United
States Senator for some years.
His political and military careers, it can be seen
from this, were of sufficient importance, but the citi-
zens of Logansport think even more of his life as a
civilian and a citizen. He loved the city of his adop-
tion, a mere village at the time of his coming, and
did all in his power throughout the term of his life
to make it better, to secure for it the advantages in-
cident to cultivated society and the development of
its natural resources. I have already mentioned
the building pointed out as the Seminary. It seems
that one of Gen. Tipton's first steps on reaching
Jol?Sn.*^V''"'''' ^^ ^r*^^^"^' ^^^ ^'^ ^ g^^^der work than
and J £r f r' I f'^^ "^^° ^" ^^« ^^'^"^il ^"d in the field.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 207
Logansport was to organize the Eel River Seminary
Society, to erect a suitable building for school pur-
poses, and to employ and support teachers. This
was accomplished in the winter of 1828 and 1829;
he used his means and never allowed his cares to
detract from his interest in it. Both courts and
church were held in this building until suitable edi-
fices could be erected for their occupancy.
One of the most interesting things Mr. Pratt nar-
rated to me concerning Gen. Tipton, however, was
the statement that he presented to the state the bat-
tle ground of Tippecanoe, that it might be preserved
as a monument to the victory over their savage foes.
It was interesting, too, to hear that Gen. Tipton
was a member of the Free and Accepted Masons.
Lodges of this fraternity, I am told, were established
at an early date in what was then Indiana Territory;
Gen. Tipton was a member when residing at Cory-
don, and on coming to Cass County, he established
a lodge at Logansport when this to^vn was only two
months old. The town has already a Lodge Hall,
which was dedicated four years ago. When Gen.
Tipton died last spring, most impressive funeral
services, said Mr. Pratt, were conducted by his
brother Masons. This is my first encounter with
members of this fraternity in this state.
Through Mr. Pratt I met some other la"«^^ers of
the town, G. W. Blakemore, S. S. Tipton, William-
son Wright, and his partner, William Z. Stuart, and
Mr. Palmer, Mr. Pratt's partner. I met also a most
interesting physician, Dr. Graham N. Fitch. Dr.
Fitch is a man of about thirty years, who has al-
208 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ready attained a Mgli standing in Ms profession,
and is one of the most entertaining men I have met.
He is deeply interested in politics, and has read and
thought much upon the constitutional principles of
our government, and has formed his opinions of the
proper mode of their development by legislation.
He is deeply read in the writings of Mr. Jefferson,
so I found to my delight, and the hour I spent in
his society I consider one of the most pleasant of
the many hours I have spent in the Western country.
With all this, I found that Dr. Fitch cares most of
all for his profession, and when I considered his
hardships, for even more than the lawyer or the cir-
cuit rider, the country medical practitioner suffers
from bad roads and bad weather, I marveled at
once over his endurance and his enthusiasm.
With an account of an interesting meeting with
three other gentlemen of Logansport, I must close
this entry in my diary. These gentlemen were Mr.
Horace Biddle, whom I met through the kind offices
of Mr. Pratt, and Mr. John B. Dillon and Mr. George
Winter, whom I encountered in Mr. Biddle 's office.
Mr. Biddle is a young lawyer, admitted to the bar
only last year, and only last fall come to this city.
He too loves the Wabash country, and spoke most
poetically of the gentle hills that surround the city,
and of the meeting of the waters in the valley. "I
was pleased with it when I first saw it, and its charm
is on me yet," he said. Mr. Pratt told me that he
is a young man of brilliancy and attainments, and
has literary tastes as well, having already contrib-
uted both prose and poetic efforts to magazines and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 209
papers. He is a great friend of a most interesting
young man, Mr. Jolm B. Dillon,^ editor, with Mr.
Hyacinth Lasselle, of The Logansport Telegraph.
Mr. Dillon, I was told before meeting him, is a
man of fine literary tastes, which has no doubt ce-
mented the friendship between him and Mr. Biddle.
Before coming to Logansport Mr. Dillon resided in
Cincinnati, and while there was connected with the
Cincinnati Mirror, a literary paper of high excel-
lence. As we chatted together Mr. Biddle talked at
length and with enthusiasm of this friend.
*'He cares nothing for the law," said he, *'but he
is an attentive reader and is well acquainted with
the general principles of jurisprudence. He has,
however, no adaptability to the business affairs of
life; all he desires is to think and to know; he has
no disposition to do and to have. He delights in
original composition and in belles lettres,"
As he spoke Mr. Dillon entered in company with
Mr. Winter. In person, I found him peculiar. He
is of medium height, with a fine athletic figure, yet
his hands and feet are clumsy and quite ungainly.
His head is large, his hair dark, and, perhaps be-
cause of some affection of the eyes, he wears spec-
tacles with large, dark sideglasses, which effectually
conceal his eyes. His manner is most .serious and
he seems very shy, though Mr. Biddle assured me
that with his familiar friends over a game of chess,
or at a feast of anecdotes, or in athletic exercises,
'John B. Dillon, born in Virginia, 1808; Logansport, 1834, studied
law and admitted to bar; editor Logansport Telegraph, 1839-43;
later went to Indianapolis; author "History of Indiana," two
volumes. — Editor.
210 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
he is often mirthful and sometimes even uproarious.
We talked at some length together, and soon, feel-
ing the comradeship of ambitious youth, spoke of our
hopes and our dreams. Mr. Biddle yearns for fame
in his chosen calling, but he intends ne'er to desert
the muse. Mr. Dillon's ambition is to preserve for-
ever the facts of our early history for the great and
wise and good of all coming generations in a history
of merit. He does not care for popular applause, he
says, but desires to be read by scholars, by states-
men, by historians, by students of the past. To such
ends, he devotes all his spare time to the general
reading of English literature and the special in-
vestigation of the history of the Northwest Terri-
tory and the states formed from it, in connection
with the history of Indiana.
The other young gentleman, is, I learned later,
about 30 years old, and is an Englishman and an
artist. Wlien he found that I was a stranger in
the state and much interested in its history, he gave
me much information concerning his work and the
country.
It seems that he was born and educated in Eng-
land, and then came to New York. Later, he came
out to Cincinnati on account of his interest in the
Indians and their proposed migration, and at the
council held by Col. Pepper concerning the Potta-
wotamies of which I have already written, he found
excellent material for his sketches. His painting,
*'The Treaty of Kuwa-nay," so pleased Col. Pep-
per that Mr. Winter presented it to him. He has
continued to paint Indians, and the reason for his
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 211
residence in Logansport was its nearness to the
reservations. He told me at length of his visit to
''Dead Man's Village" only last year, at the request
of the Slocum family to sketch the likeness of
Frances, the ''lost sister," a little girl who was
stolen from her Quaker parents in Wilkesbarre, Pa.,
and was not discovered until she was an old woman
and had become the wife of She-buck-oo-wah, an
Indian chief.
He also confided to me that he had been painting
views of the Tippecanoe battle field in the hope that
they would find a sale because of the great interest
in the election. One of these views was hanging
in Mr. Biddle's office at this time, and I immediately
purchased, it as a gift for my father, who has a
taste for historic happenings. I judge him a young
man of great talent, no doubt destined to acquire
name and fame in this new country.
I found him most genial and witty, and before we
parted we all three became on such intimate terms
that they told me of a practical joke they played on
the town this very spring.
"We were sitting together here," said Mr. Bid-
die, and I guessed that they sat much together, these
three young men, with their interest in art and belles
lettres so out of keeping, one might think, with a
rude pioneer settlement, "when all at once Mr. Dil-
lon said (the day was April 1) :
" 'Let us fool somebody!'
"We all agreed, and he took a pen and a narrow
strip of paper and wrote : ' There will be exhibited
at the Court House this evening a living manthrop,
212 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
from 8 to 10 o'clock. Sir Roger DeCoverley, man-
ager. '
''He took a couple of wafers, and wlien we went
to the hotel where we all three board, he managed
to stick up the- notice on a small billboard without
being observed.
''Much to our amusement, there was a great dis-
cussion at dinner about the strange animal. Dur-
ing the afternoon, young gentlemen of the town who
prided themselves on their learning, several of the
clergymen, and some of the lawyers, were busy
studying the encyclopedia, natural histories, all the
books they could find, to ascertain what the new
creature was. The word manthrop, as you no doubt
know, sir, is really a compound of two Anglo-Saxon
words meaning 'the man of the village,' and as Sir
Roger DeCoverley is Addison's amiable character,
Mr. Dillon had no expectation of the success of the
joke, indeed he was mortified at the result. For a
long time, Dillon's April fool was talked about
through the town."
CHAPTER XIII
June 30, 1840.
A FEW more interesting items concerning my
stay in Logansport are to be noted before
leaving the subject.
In the office of Mr. Pratt I met a most agreeable
young gentleman, Charles B. Lasselle,^ who is just
21 years old.
Mr. Lasselle received his early education at the
*' Seminary," which I have already mentioned as
founded by General Tipton, and then went to the
State College, where he pursued his studies until
last year, when he entered Mr. Pratt's office to en-
gage in the study of the law. His grandfather. Col.
James Lasselle, descendant of French emigrants to
Montreal, was Indian agent near the village of Fort
Wayne and his father, Gen. Hyacinth Lasselle, was
the first white child born in that locality. His
mother is also of French parentage and her father
fought in the Revolutionary War. General and Mrs.
Lasselle came to Logansport in 1833, first settling
on a farm and later moving into the towTi, where
* Charles B. Lasselle, born in Vincennes, 1819; admitted to bar,
1842; prosecuting attorney, 1847; assistant editor Logansport Tele-
graph; Legislature, 1862; State Senate, 1868-9-70; took much inter-
est in Wabash Valley history; part of his collection in State Library.
—Editor.
213
214 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
one of the sons is proprietor of The Telegraph, of
which Mr. Dillon is editor.
Young Mr. Charles and I found much in common
in our brief conversation, and on learning that my
last evening in the town was unoccupied, he invited
me to supper at his father's home, where I enjoyed
a most delightful visit with this charming family and
learned much of the French occupants of the Wa-
bash, besides being given letters by them to some 9f
the most respectable families in Vincennes, which
city is included in my itinerary.
In the home of the Lasselles I found, together with
relics of the aborigines collected by the grandfather,
many indications of culture in books, pictures and
furniture. The only piano in the town is in this
home, and General Lasselle told me a most amusing
story of its coming to Logansport. It was pur-
chased, it seems, in Philadelphia and shipped thence
by water to New Orleans. From there, it was sent
up the Mississippi on a steamboat, and from there
by the same means up the Ohio and the Wabash,
reaching the Logansport wharf in safety. But from
carelessness on the part of the deckhands, when it
was undertook to carry it ashore, it fell into the
river and must needs lie there until the waters sub-
sided, when it was lifted out.
I discovered that young Mr. Lasselle is most in-
terested in history and belles lettres. We talked
much of books and he presently brought forth for
my perusal a publication now being issued at Bloom-
ington at the State College, a periodical entitled
The Extra Equator, devoted, so it was stated on
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 215
the cover, '^to the interests of science and literature
in the West."
I examined this periodical with great interest.
The opening article is a translation of one of the
dialogues of Plato, especially addressed, says the
editor, ''to those who are in the habit of thinking
accurately and deeply on every subject within their
mental grasp. To those who do not cultivate this
faculty it is not addressed ; for upon such its opera-
tion would be most unwelcome and even painful.
''Readers of a more serious turn," he goes on to
say, "may be pleased with the 'Notes of Sunday
School Instruction,' all the lovers of our civil insti-
tutions will admire the humor and spirit of the
'Fourth of July Address,' and the candor and fair-
ness of the review department. The 'studious of
change and pleased with novelty' will be amused
and instructed by the 'Rambles in Vacation,' and
sundry descriptive and poetic pieces interspersed
throughout the work."
The editor seemed somewhat uncertain, appar-
ently, as to the acceptance of his Greek translation,
for he continues to insist that it is worth the read-
ing for the improvement such reading will give.
"The stiffness and pomp of our style, I have often
thought," he says, "might be corrected by a more
intimate acquaintance with the manner of the an-
cients. It should be published moreover, because
it is edifying to furnish a specimen of the method
of instruction pursued by Socrates, the most cele-
brated teacher of ancient times."
The Fourth of July Address, I noted, is one given
216 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
the preceding year by Dr. Andrew Wylie, Presi-
dent of the College, he whom Miss Merrill had so
highly praised to me, and one of the poetic selec-
tions noted in the table of contents is an extract
from a poem delivered ''At the Departure of the
Senior Class of Yale College in 1836/'
All this was most interesting and, with Mr. Las-
selle's permission, I made note of this publication
and its contents in my pocketbook. The most in-
teresting article to me, however, in the entire book
concerned a volume published in Louisville, Ky.,
whose second edition has just appeared. This work,
it would seem, is entitled ''Tannehill's History of
Literature," published by subscription. The first
edition was published some years ago. The notice
I will quote :
''This volume was published in the "West and lit-
tle or no pains were taken to make it known or to
give it circulation in other sections of the Union.
The few copies, however, which were sent to the
Northern and Eastern states were well received, and
it was pronounced a work of great research and
merit ; and the New York Review seems utterly sur-
prised that a volume requiring so much and so ex-
tensive reading could have been produced in the
backwoods of the West. The work is a succinct com-
pendium of the history of literature from the earliest
period to the revival of letters in the fifteenth cen-
tury. It is written in a neat and chaste style and
while it can be perused with interest and profit to
the general reader, by literary men it will be hailed
with delight as an invaluable companion. We can
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 217
not help thinking what a God-send such a volume
would have been in our college days when themes
and compositions weekly stared us in the face. With
this ample magazine at our elbow, how learnedly
could we have descanted on the literature of Greece
and Rome, those fruitful themes for the sophomore's
pen — while in Egypt or Russia, or China or India, or
Arabia or Spain, we should have been as much at
home as Sir William Jones or the learned black-
smith of Massachusetts."
I have made a note of this valuable volume, the
title and publisher with the intent to purchase it
Avhen next in a bookseller's shop.
The discussion of books led to the subject of pub-
lic libraries, and a regret that there was not more
money available for the purchase of books for the
Logansport Library, A gentleman, a Mr. Taber,
who had come in to spend the evening, at once
entered into an argument over the means of rais-
ing funds for the purchase of books for the
Library.
''Every citizen," said he, ''will readily acknowl-
edge the importance of public libraries in promoting
the cause of general education. Well, then, let a
library company be founded and incorporated and
let the company obtain from the Legislature a
charter for the purpose of raising a library fund,
say $50,000 by lottery." He admitted that this was
not an original idea with him, but that he believed
it a most feasible one. "By this means," he went
on to say, "the town and country might become pos-
sessed of one of the best libraries in the Western
218 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
country. The plan, if properly managed, can not
fail to prove successful."
Another member of the company objected at once,
declaring that the influence of the lottery is most
pernicious.
**Not at all," declared its first advocate. ''The
case is altogether different when the lotteries are
used for the purpose of promoting the cause of edu-
cation and other useful interests. In almost every
state, lotteries have been authorized by law to aid
in building colleges, academies, hospitals, asylums,
etc. They have also been authorized by law for
purposes of public improvement, such as tha mak-
ing of roads, the building of bridges, the improve-
ment of the navigation of rivers, the draining of
large tracts of wet land."
He appealed to me to know if this were not true,
and I was compelled to acknowledge that this means
of raising money for educational and other worthy
purposes was no novelty in many of the Eastern
states. The gentleman concluded by stating that he
was going this very week to issue a call for a meet-
ing to consider this subject, at the Presbyterian
Church at candlelight on Friday night.
In the course of the evening these friends gave
me much other interesting information concerning
their city and the Western country in general. It
would seem that much ginseng grew in the woods
and was an early source of income to the first set-
tlers. James Blake, whom I had known in Indian-
apolis, had soon perceived the value of this product
of the woods and had established in several places.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 219
among them Logansport, factories in which the root
was prepared and dried for shipment to China,
where it is highly valued as a medicine. As civiliza-
tion advances and the country is cleared, 'tis said
the ginseng gradually disappears, and one of the
''first wave" pioneers, those who make the first
clearings and then move on to the wilder places, said
that he followed the wild turkey which, when there
are no more ''sang" berries (the pioneer calls the
ginseng "sang") to eat in the forest, leaves it for
wilder and more remote places.
These gentlemen, perceiving my interest in the
town's social affairs as well as its business develop-
ment, told me something of their musical societies
and of the Thespian Society, in which all are most
interested and wiiich has been in existence for sev-
eral years and has given several notable perform-
ances. Among these, they mentioned the play of
"Douglas," acted together with the farce, "Tom
Noddy's Secret," and Kotzebue's "The Stranger,"
with the farce ' ' The Mummy. ' ' Another all remem-
bered with the greatest pleasure, was the "Tragedy
of Bertram, ' ' by the Rev. Mr. Mathurin, pronounced
universally one of the best and most beautiful pro-
ductions in the language, to do justice to which en-
tirely new scenery was executed by an artist, which
would have been creditable, they declared, to any
theater, and which, together with the costumes made
for the occasion, won universal admiration and
wonderment.
My father having suggested that I occasionally
note prices of various commodities in order to com-
220 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
pare them with similar commodities in the East, I
will here set down prices as copied from a number
of the Logansport Herald for the month of June,
1840, as read out to me by Mr. Lasselle on this
evening.
Beef, 3 cents a pound ; pork, 2 cents ; lard, 5 cents ;
butter, 8 cents ; cheese, 10 cents ; ham, 6 cents ; shoul-
der, 5 cents; flour, $3 a barrel; wheat, 56 cents
per bushel ; oats, 12 cents per bushel ; coffee, 25 cents
a pound; whisky, 19 cents a gallon.
The time had now come for my departure from
this town, and with it a slight change in my plans.
As noted before, my cousin, Jonathan Parsons, had
come out to the Wabash country and it was my in-
tention to pass through Covington and pay him a
visit. On my inquiring of Mr. Hannegan, however,
on learning that this town was his home, I was in-
formed that my cousin had left this country some
months ago, having suffered greatly from the ague,
with the intention of going to Ohio. We have
cousins there from Maryland and it is possible that
he has sought them out with the idea of settling
there. As Covington is a new settlement and not
unlike these other towns of the Wabash country, I
shall not now visit it, but shall continue my journey
to Lafayette and thence to Crawfordsville.
I have learned, much to my chagrin, that the Wa-
bash and Erie Canal, on which I had hoped to make
part of my journey, is not yet completed. Adver-
tisements in the Logansport papers had led me to
believe that the canal was open for some distance,
but it seems that it is only open to Georgetown,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 221
seven miles from Logansport, although work is be-
ing done at several points along the line. This be-
ing the case, I engaged passage on the stage for
Lafayette.
The beginning of my journey was not altogether
propitious. The stage was a dingy lumbering ve-
hicle, altogether unlike the trim Vigus coaches ; the
driver, rough and profane. We started off well
enough, however, and as usual, I gathered much in-
formation concerning the country from my fellow
travelers with whom I was soon engaged in conver-
sation. The county of Carroll, in which we found
ourselves after driving a considerable distance and
crossing the river, which runs diagonally through
Cass County, Carroll and Tippecanoe, southwest of
Carroll, was named after the venerable Charles Car-
roll, at the time of its organization, the sole survivor
of those noted men who signed the Declaration.
The surface of this county is not unlike that I had
just quitted. The road could be called so only by
courtesy, — 'twas simply a way made by felling the
trees, many of whose stumps remained in the road-
way, together with some of the logs. I scarcely no-
ticed the miserable jolting, however, so impressed
was I with the marvelous beauty of the country we
were traversing.
Sometimes the road ran through the forest, where
the trees rose nearly 100 feet in height, standing on
either side of the road like a protecting wall. Again
we passed over level plains, or again, through the
river bottoms and this last was a most beautiful and
novel sight to me, indicating clearly why men werQ
222 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
willing to endure fever and ague and other ills to
abide in the Wabash country. The river rolled its
silver current along the edge of the plain, which was
besprinkled with wild flowers of every rich and
varied tint, intermingled with tall grass that nodded
in the passing breeze. The hawthorn, wild plum
and crabapple bushes were overspread with a tangle
of vines, grape, wild hops, honeysuckle, and clam-
bering sweet brier, fantastically wreathed together,
all growing in clusters along the river bank as if
in love with its placid smiling waters.
The forest rang continually with the songs of the
birds and among them I noted particularly, because
of their strangeness, the crane and the parroquet.
These sand-hill cranes are quite different from the
common blue cranes, being much larger and of a
sandy gray color. They go in flocks, I am told, like
wild geese, but fly much higher and their croaking
can be heard distinctly when they are so high in
the air that they can not be seen. The parroquets
are beautiful birds, as I have already noted in writ-
ing of my ride along the Ohio River. In size they
are a little larger than the common quail and re-
semble small parrots. When full gro^vn, a gentle-
man informed me, their plumage is green, except
the neck, which is yellow, and the head is red. The
heads of the young continue yellow until they are
a year old. Waen flying, this bird utters a shrill
but cheerful and pleasant note and the flash of its
golden and green plumage in the sunlight is inde-
scribably beautiful in its tropical suggestion.
The gentleman who gave me much of this infor-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 223
mation and who, he confessed, is much interested
in natural history and has many times perused Gold-
smith's ''Animated Nature," said most poetically,
that on seeing these brilliant birds in the sunlight,
he "deemed for the moment that he was on the
verge of a brighter sphere, where the birds wear
richer plumage and utter a sweeter song."
We had left Logansport at noon, and time sped
rapidly enough in gazing at the varied and delight-
ful landscape and in conversation of a sort which
ever proves edifying. Evening was coming on
when, after a crash as of the wheel striking a
log or obstruction of some sort, the stage gave
a tremendous lurch and precipitated us one against
the other as it came to a full stop, half over-
turned.
Having scrambled out as best we could, we were
informed surlily by the driver that we would have
to find lodging in a cabin in a clearing nearby the
place where our accident had fortunately occurred,
as it would be impossible to repair the damages done
to the stage before morning.
Looking about bewildered, we discovered near the
roadside, in a clearing of some fifteen or twenty
acres, a single cabin built of logs to which our driver
was already leading his horses, which he had speed-
ily unhitched from the stage. My fellow passengers
and I walked toward the door of the cabin, where
we were met by a half grown girl, rudely attired
in a coarse garment of dull blue, 'tis true, but pos-
sessed of delicate features and fresh color. All
romance was dispelled when she spoke, however !
224 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
' ' May we stay here for the night, my girl 1 ' ' asked
one of the gentlemen.
*'I ain't your girl that I knows of," she drawled,
"but we sometimes keeps strangers, and I reckon
you kin stay here if you like."
At that we entered the cabin, which consisted of
a single room with a large fireplace at one end.
The walls had been whitewashed, and from pegs
here and there was suspended the family's extra
wearing apparel. Two large beds occupied the sides
of the room, with trundle beds beneath ; some splint-
bottomed chairs and an old bureau completed the
furniture. The kitchen was in a *' lean-to" at the
back of the house.
The father came in presently, a tall, raw-boned
man, with a face bronzed by exposure, and shook
hands with us warmly and made us welcome. Soon
the children, healthy and sunburned, came strag-
gling in, and last the mother, she alas! the true
pioneer wife, broken by many hardships. How
many of these poor women have I already encoun-
tered on this Western journey, prematurely old and
broken from hard work and many privations !
She was kind, too, and welcomed us shyly, and
presently we sat down to a meal of fried pork, corn
dodgers and tea. Later, I talked with her concern-
ing a beautiful hand-woven coverlet which spread
its gorgeous colors on the rude high bed, and which
for the moment I had the thought of attempting to
purchase for my mother. She said she did not
weave it, though the other was her handiwork, point-
ing to the other bed on which one of plainer design
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 225
was spread. Perceiving that my interest was gen-
uine, she forgot herself and grew eloquent over the
subject of designs. Her *' mammy" had woven
many of them, she said. In that old **chist" she
had the ''Sunrise," the ''Pine Bloom" and the
"Dogwood Blossoms" folded away, all brought
from "Kyarliny," and she had a loom in the shed,
and some of "mammy's" patterns. But this one
which I admired was a "double kiver," the art of
making which is known only to the professional
weavers. The soft, fine wool for this, to whose ex-
quisite quality she called my attention, she herself
had prepared, carding, spinning, dyeing, and her
sister, who lived over in Fountain County, had taken
it to be woven to a woman, French, she reckoned,
whose name was Lattaratt. (After a Avhile I trans-
lated her barbarous pronunciation into LaTourette.^)
"Frenchman's Fancy," was its name, and she
reckoned "it was the prettiest kiver in this part of
the kentry." When I saw her hungry eyes feast
themselves upon this one beautiful object in the
dreary cabin, I said no word concerning its pur-
chase.
As we sat and talked after supper, the farmer told
us something of his history. He had come with his
wife from North Carolina to Ohio, and thence to
Indiana. He owned now eighty acres of land,
twenty of them cleared, a yoke of oxen, a mule, a
cart and some farming tools. He was getting rest-
less, though; it was becoming too thickly settled
^The LaTourettes of Fountain County were famous weavera of
fine coverlets, — Editor,
226 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
about here, and he might yet be moving on to a
wilder country.
Ere long bed time was announced, the trundle
beds were brought forth, pallets made on the floor,
each one's couch assigned him, and soon we all were
sound asleep.
Next morning we performed our ablutions in a tin
basin set on a rough bench beside the door. The
water was from a spring near by, clear and cold,
and a clean towel hung from a nail by the door
casing.
After breakfast, a good one, of fried ham, eggs
and coffee, our host informed us that a little fur-
ther down the road a wedding was to be celebrated
that day, and suggested that as he and his family
were going, we join them and remain there until the
driver had finished his repairs on the coach and
came to pick us up.
Being assured that we would be welcome, and
having agreed among ourselves to make up a purse
as a gift for the bride, we accordingly joined the
family procession to the next clearing.
This house proved a much more pretentious dwell-
ing than that of our host of the preceding night.
This was a ''double cabin," one room of which was
very large, the other of ordinary size, about eighteen
by twenty feet, I fancy. In the smaller room, the
floor was of dirt, and here were most ingeniously
constructed tables for the day, made by forked
sticks driven into the floor at regular intervals, upon
which were laid other sticks, and on these ranged
puncheons, upon which the cloths were spread.
A PIONEER'/ CABIN IN 1840
From a drawing ty Caar "^'illiams
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 227
It was about 9 o 'clock when we reached the cabin,
and many of the guests were already assembled.
The elder ones came, I was informed, to assist in
the preparation of the dinner; the younger, to en-
gage in dancing, as soon as the ceremony was per-
formed, so popular is this amusement in these settle-
ments. As the two rooms were already occupied,
the bride had to make her toilet in the ''lean-to,"
where she, with the friends who "stood up" with
her, received the bridegroom and his attendants on
their arrival. All this, we witnessed, as also the
coming of the squire who was to perform the cere-
mony.
This ceremony was performed in a most back-
woods fashion in the larger cabin, and immediately
afterward the bride and bridegroom, together with
the older guests, and ourselves — we were treated,
I have failed to note, with great respect — were in-
vited to the dining table. I perceived the necessity
now of the strong structure I had observed this
morning, for an enormous feast now stood upon the
coarse white cloths that hid the rude puncheons.
Wild turkey, roasted and steaming hot ; a saddle of
venison, various vegetables, pies of all sorts, dishes
of wild honey, and a great pot of coffee, with the
"fixin's," as they called it, of rich cream and a great
pan of maple sugar, stood before us, but only for a
season, for this Brobdingnagian feast vanished all
too quickly.
"When we returned to the first cabin we found the
young people already dancing, having induced the
old fiddler to take his station in one corner, where
228 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
he played in a most lugubrious fashion the old tune
of ''Leather Breeches."
We tarried for a season watching them, and then,
our driver appearing with the coach, we presented
our gift to the buxom bride, thanked our hosts for
their hospitality, and, I'll confess it, since she was
a comely girl with sparkling, black eyes and a fine
color, availed ourselves of the permitted ''salute'*
on the bride's rosy cheek ! Then, assuming our seats
in the coach, we were soon bowling rapidly along
over the road to Delphi.
CHAPTER XIV
Laeayette, July 2, 1840.
NOTHING of particular interest occurred to
mark our journey from the settler's cabin
where we beheld the marriage ceremony, un-
til we came to the village of Delphi. The prospect
was much the same, alternating woodland and
prairie, and I occupied my time in gazing upon the
scenery, whose natural beauty had not yet palled
upon me, and in conversation with my fellow
travelers.
One elderly gentleman — ^I learned later that his
name was Odell — who took the stage for Delphi at a
hamlet at which we stopped on the morning of the
wedding, proved to be one of the pioneers of Carroll
County and told me much that was interesting con-
cerning the newness of these settlements and the
hardships of the first settlers. Looking upon the
small but thriving villages and the cultivated fields
separated from each other though they are by dense
woodlands, I found it difficult to comprehend that
only fourteen years ago when the people in the
locality that is now Delphi, came together to assist
in raising a saw mill, there were only twenty-eight
present and those twenty-eight were all of the resi-
dents, as he put it oddly enough, "from Wild Cat to
230 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Rock Creek" within the limits of what two years
later became Carroll County, and that now there are
in these same limits several hundred people. These
first settlers, he said, suffered many privations that
first winter. Their stock of provisions, tea, coffee,
and flour which they had brought with them was
soon exhausted and they were forced to subsist on
what substitutes were to be had— potatoes and
squash for bread stuffs and a brew made from spice-
wood to take the place of tea and coffee.
The mail in these early days, he told me, was first
carried on horseback, later in what were called
' ' mud wagons, ' ' and still later in ' * hacks. ' ' Indian
trails and deer paths were the roads, and he declared
that a settler who came into the country in 1824 said
that the face of the country was then covered with a
growth of nettles as thick as a crop of flax and
about as high, and in the river bottom as high as
a man's head when he was on horseback.
There were many frogs and snakes, he said. In -
deed, every one with whom I have talked has an
experience with these reptiles to relate, for the
rattlesnakes abounded here in such numbers that
the settlers frequently formed companies to go
forth and attack their dens. In one place, near
Deer Creek, ninety-five were once killed in one
day.
The wolves, too, were plentiful in the early days,
and after telling me several stories of these huge
gray wolves, the old gentleman recited a poem he
had composed last winter on a bill introduced into
the Legislature asking for a bounty on wolf scalps;
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 231
"The wolf, the enemy of sheep,
Prowls about when we're asleep,
And in despite of faithful dogs,
They kill our sheep and junior hogs,
And rob us of our wool and bacon.
One by one, the imps of Satan.
Hence, I pray the Legislature
To pass a law to kill the creature;
And by a unanimous vote.
Make the scalp a treasury note."
A Methodist minister, who was also a passenger
and who until now had taken little part in the con-
versation, perceiving my interest in these stories
relating to the wildness of the country, informed
me that only last year, when going to Conference
with some of his fellow circuit riders, one of them
feeling ill, they all stopped for the night at a farm
house somewhere between Greencastle and Craw-
fordsville. During the night they were aroused by
a great commotion in the yard, the barking of the
dog and the voice of the farmer, but presently when
all became quiet again, they fell asleep and were
surprised in the morning to hear from the farmer
that a bear had climbed into his yard and en-
deavored to get away with one of his pigs. The
bear was compelled to surrender his prey but man-
aged to make his escape. The ministers were
chagrined that they had not arisen and assisted in
the capture of the bear on their way to Conference — •
it would have made such a good story !
I learned more, too, on the stage of my friend
James Blake of Indianapolis, of whom I have
written several times before, and whose activities
232 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
in this part of tlie state in the early days of the
settlement are still remembered.
In Indianapolis I had heard Mr. Blake's praises
sung on all sides as one of the most useful, energetic
and public-spirited of its citizens, always first to
help in any improvement that was to be made, al-
ways heading the list in every benevolent enterprise,
a man most noble and unselfish, to whom was due
much of the prosperity of the city in which he made
his home. It was therefore most interesting to come
upon a chapter of his early life in this country.
'Tis said that he lived several months of every
year in Carroll County at its beginning and estab-
lished a ginseng factory on Gen. Milroy's farm, pur-
chasing large quantities of this root from the
settlers, from which source alone many of them ac-
quired sufficient funds for the purchase of their land
from the government.
He attended the first sale of lots in Delphi and
was leader of the subscription for the erection of the
school house. He at once organized a Sunday
School, and as long as he remained a resident of
the county kept it under his supervision. In short,
it was evident that Mr. Blake did not become a resi-
dent of the town for purely selfish reasons. He be-
came a citizen not only to better himself but to better
the town. He set a standard of religion, morality
and virtue, and made it easier for other good men
to stand for these principles. In brief, every town
in which he has lived felt the influence of his resi-
dence there long after he had departed. To use Mr.
Odell's words, **He gave the young community a
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 233
start in the right direction, and that influence is
still felt."
As the old gentleman concluded his speech, I sat
in silence for a period, meditating on what he had
told me and on the influence for good a man may-
have in a community. Here, thought I, is this man
who came out to the Western country, just as I
have now come, to carve out his fortune and to make
a place for himself. By his own efforts, he has not
only succeeded in one but in both. Here and in
Indianapolis, his present home, I have heard only
words of praise when his name is mentioned. And
here am I, come likewise to find a place for myself
in this new country. Twelve, fourteen years from
now, will some young man, such as I am now, riding
through the country on a similar voyage of dis-
covery, hear my name spoken in such terms of grati-
tude and praise? What a happy destiny could such
a thing be !
We had by this time approached Delphi where I
had planned to remain over night. I accordingly
took lodgings at the Delphi House. This hotel, I am
informed, was established in 1835 and stands at the
foot of Main Street. I was most agreeably sur-
prised to find so large and handsome a tavern-stand
in so new a town. The building is of frame, con-
tains forty-five rooms and a cellar and also pos-
sesses a most commodious stable. Its situation is a
fine one as it commands a view of the river, the
canal and the town.
Unfortunately, the town only last year suffered
from a most disastrous fire, in which an entire block
234 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
of buildings was consumed, and has not yet^ re-
covered from this catastrophe. However, it is a
pleasant looking village, and, while small, it is hard
to believe that so few years ago its site was an open
woods of oak, walnut, elm, plum bushes and hazel,
as I am told. The surrounding country is beautiful
beyond description, the river, the creeks, the bot-
toms overgrown with flowers, the forests, altogether
forming a scene to cast a spell over any one pos-
sessed of imagination.
The editor of the paper, The Express, R. C.
Green, to whom I had a letter from one of my
Logansport friends which I speedily presented, gave
me to understand that in spite of this calamity, Del-
phi will rally and that the day is not distant when
it will be the largest town on the Wabash River.
Mr. Green has been, until last year, the editor of the
first paper started in Delphi, but recently gave this
up to become editor of The Express, which is a
Harrison paper. He and a gentleman whom I
found in his office, a Dr. Blanchard, talked much of
the resources of the town and most bitterly regretted
that the Michigan Road did not pass through it, this,
they declared, being due to carelessness on the part
of some of the citizens who did not take time to ex-
plain the advantages of such a route to the com-
missioners, who therefore went into Cass County,
where they found men who were willing to spend
the time and gain this important thoroughfare.
They talked much of the natural advantages of
Carroll County, its fertility of soil and facilities
for water power, and pointed out to me the fact that
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 235
it is the head of steamboat navigation on the Wa-
bash, because any time that steamboats can come to
Lafayette they can come to Delphi.
Similar enthusiasm over the county *s resources I
found in General Samuel Milroy,^ one of the pioneer
settlers.
Gen. Milroy was most agreeable to me and
narrated the circumstances of the naming of Delphi.
He had in mind of course the ancient shrine of
Apollo, the seat of the famous oracle, and by a
pretty fancy the first newspaper established was
named The Del phi Oracle.
Gen. Milroy assured me, as others have done, that
the first settlers of this county possessed more in-
telligence and piety than is usual in new settlements,
early establishing churches and schools, and the
moral tone of their influence and example has left its
impress on the present inhabitants.
It was this gentleman in his talk on internal im-
provements who called to my mind again tlie Madi-
son and Lafayette Railroad, on which I had traveled
from Madison to Vernon, its terminus at that time,
and which if ever completed will connect the north
^Samuel Milroy, born, 1780, in Pennsylvania; lineal descendant
of Robert Bruce; came to Middle West when a young man; to
Indiana in 1814; delegate to constitutional convention, 1816; mem-
ber of first Legislature; Brigadier General, commissioned by Gov.
Jennings, 1819; in Legislature for nine years in succession; moved
to what is now Carroll County in 1826; petitioned Legislature to
form county; drafted bill for same, located county seat and sug-
gested name; appointed by J. Q. Adams to inspect Illinois land
oflaces; same year made register of land offices at Crawfordsville ;
delegate to first Democratic national convention at Baltimore, 1832;
opposed internal improvement system, 1839; agent for Miami and
Pottawotamie Indiana; died, 1845. — fiditor.
236 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
part of the state with the south in a way now almost
unbelievable. He told me that he had aroused much
enmity in the Legislature by opposing the building
of a steamboat lock at Delphi, but he stood firm be-
cause he was determined that time and materials
should not be taken from the citizens of Carroll
County to construct something which he considered
as absolutely useless. I discovered in the course of
our conversation that he is an ardent Democrat and
a great admirer of Robert Dale Owen. On learn-
ing of my admiration for him, although I am a
Wliig, he presented me with a printed pamphlet of
an address which Mr. Owen delivered before a meet-
ing last year, which he considers a most noble effort.
In answer to my inquiry as to whether the town
is sickly, he assured me that other settlements jeal-
ous of Delphi have circulated the report that it is
sickly, whereas, to the contrary, in four years only
one adult person has died in the town.
During my stay in Delphi I met several of the
physicians in addition to Dr. Blanchard, among
them Dr. Ewing and Dr. Webber and Dr. James
Stewart, also Judge Grantham, the probate judge;
John Armitage and several attorneys, including L.
B. Sims and a Mr. Graham. In company with these
friends I viewed the little city, saw the substantial
Court House, a brick building with a bell and cupola
which cost $1,351, 1 am told, and the octagonal school
house erected several years ago.
I was told by these gentlemen of the Moot Legis-
lature, an organization that existed at Delphi for a
season. It consisted of a body of men supposed to
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 237
represent a legislative body with officers consisting
of a governor or speaker, a clerk, a treasurer and
a doorkeeper. This Dr. Stewart, whom I found
much interested in all the county affairs, was my in-
formant, and he was the first clerk to be elected for
this body. The length of the session was four weeks
and the Governor delivered a message at its begin-
ning.
It was most interesting, he said, and nothing ever
created more interest in the community than did
this organization.
Again on the stage and bound now for Lafayette,
the seat of justice of Tippecanoe County, which
county I had visited once before on my journey to
Battle Ground with Col. Vawter.
The first town on our course was in Tippecanoe
County, on the east side of the Wabash River, a vil-
lage called Americus, and as our stage stopped there
for some time for the exchange of mail I stepped off
to view the town. I became so impressed with the
possibilities of this town in the wilderness that I
ordered my carpet bags set off and remained at the
tavern until the coming of the next coach, two days
later. There is no haste in my journey and as the
object of my visit is not so much recreation as
search for an abode, or an investment in lands which
may later prove valuable, it seems important, since
I have decided that the Wabash country is the most
promising I have yet discovered, to take time in the
investigation of the possibilities of these various
locations.
Americus is a new town and a small one, laid out.
238 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
I have learned, in 1832 by William Digby, who also
ceded the land for the original plat of Lafayette.
At this time, it is said, it was considered as the loca-
tion for the seat of justice for its position as the
terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, where the
Tippecanoe River empties into the Wabash, was of
great importance. Because of this, lots sold at very
high prices and it gave promise of becoming the
foremost to^\Ti in the county. However, it was de-
cided to extend the canal to Lafayette, which was
made the seat of justice, and the price of the lots in
Americus therefore declined. However, this does
not indicate to me the end of Americus. On the
contrary, I am convinced that it has a great future ;
it has the canal, the Wabash River, the neighbor-
hood of the Tippecanoe River, the advantages of
water power of various sorts. The township in
which it is located is in the extreme northern part
of Tippecanoe County. The surface of the town-
ship is low and level along the river banks, the soil
being of the richest formation and produces corn
and wheat in great abundance. From north to
southwest the surface is characterized by hills that
slope gently toward the center of the township,
forming beautiful farming lands.
Americus is the only town in this township and
with such advantages of location and resources I
see no reason why it should not soon become a great
commercial town, outstripping Logansport, Delphi
and Lafayette. Having drawn these conclusions
after a study of the land and the town during my
two days' stay, I have written at length to my father
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 239
of the advisability of making investments here.
'Twill seem strange to him no doubt, yet I have
heard so much since coming into the Wabash coun-
try of these towns of mushroom growth that I am
no longer astonished, but only desire to find the
proper one and there to invest my money with the
hope of profit in the future.^
On my way to Lafayette I found much to interest
me in Tippecanoe County and learned much of its
configuration from fellow travelers. On my way to
Crawfordsville I shall pass, I am told, over the
beautiful Wea Plains and there make my first ac-
quaintance with prairies. This county is not ex-
celled in beauty and fertility by many lands in the
Western country ; it is generally level or gently un-
dulating, and consists of prairies, barrens and forest
lands, one-half prairie, one-eighth barrens and the
remainder heavy forests.
I have for two days now been taking my ease in
Lafayette, a town picturesquely situated upon a de-
clivity which affords a beautiful view of the Wa-
bash, three miles above and two below the town. It
is sufficiently elevated to prevent inundation and
"Mr. Parsons, like others of his time, was no prophet on this
subject. The collapse of the canal system, the "hard times," the
building of railroads, combined with other circumstances caused the
growth and duration of Americus, to quote S. C. Cox, "to be much
after the fashion of Jonah's Gourd." The Indiana Gazetteer of 1849
describes Americus as "a small town on the Wabash River in Tippe-
canoe County, ten miles from Lafayette, containing one dry goods
store, two groceries and about fifty frame dwelling houses." In
1887, it had forty inhabitants.
Unfortunately the diary does not disclose whether Mr. Parsons
made investments here, if so to what extent, or whether this course
was opposed by his father. — Editor.
240 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
low enough to make access to the river quite con-
venient. The ground ascends gradually for the dis-
tance of about 300 yards from the river; it then de-
scends a little and again swells into a handsome
eminence on the east side of the town on which fancy
may place in anticipation the habitation of future
wealth and luxury. It contains about 400 houses
and between 1,900 and 2,000 inhabitants, and al-
ready possesses a Court House, churches and a
school.
If I am pleased with the town, what shall I say
of its citizens? The letters I have carried with
me have given me a welcome into several inter-
esting circles and I already number among my
acquaintances some of the most respectable at-
torneys, business men and men of letters of the
town.
Having been informed that there is an Episcopal
Church in the city and having seldom been able to
worship with my own denomination, their churches
being few in the Western country, and the next day
being Sunday, I betook myself to St. John's Church,
and met the pastor, the Rev. S. R. Johnson, with
whom I speedily formed a warm friendship. He
came out to the Western country from New York
State as a missionary some years ago, and, making
his home in this town, gave the lot on which the
church is built, and has refused during these years
of his pastorate to accept any salary for his services.
He is a most excellent man and one whose compan-
ionship I have found most delightful. I have ac-
cepted an invitation to his house for the morrow and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 241
I anticipate a most delightful evening, which I shall
record later.
The church I found a most handsome structure of
frame, erected at a cost, I am told, of $3,500. In the
high pulpit, the reading desk, the communion table,
all painted white, and the square-topped pews with
doors, I found a sufficient suggestion of home, bar-
ring the antiquity of our buildings of worship, to
put me at my ease. I went again at candle light
and found the nmsic most pleasing, the voices of the
choir being augmented most pleasingly by the flute,
violin and bass viol. Mr. Johnson detained me
after the service that I might meet the choir, Ezekiel
Timmons, Mr. Bansemer and Mr. Rhein playing the
instruments, and the singers being David Turpie
and the Misses Mary Turpie, Ma-ry Hatcher and
Hannah Wilstach. The ** parson," as he is com-
monly called, is fond of music and has in his home
the first piano brought to Lafayette. In fact, the
entertainment to which I am invited at his home is
to be a musical entertainment.
The next acquaintance I made, and this through a
letter from Mr. Green of Delphi, was Henry Wil-
liam Ellsworth,' on whom I called on Monday and
in whose company I have already spent some de-
lightful hours. Mr. Ellsworth is a son of Oliver
Ellsworth^ chief justice of the Supreme Court of the
U.S.
Mr. Ellsworth has told me much of the society of
* William Henry Ellsworth, born in Connecticut, 1814; graduated
at Yale, 1835; came at once to Lafayette; author of some poems and
of a book entitled, "Valley of the Upper Wabash, Indiana," published
in New York in 1838.— Editor.
242 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Lafayette and has introduced me to many gentle-
men. He pointed out to me many of the public
buildings, the Presbyterian Church among others, to
show to me the early interest of the community in
education, for, said he, those who contributed to its
erection stipulated that a room should be set off on
the west end for a schoolhouse until such time as it
was possible to erect a proper school building.
He told me something of the social life of the city.
''The rules for good society are now well estab-
lished," said he, "embracing, we may hope, every
honest man and woman. True, there are some who,
through perverted minds, consider themselves in-
dividually too high above the masses to be agreeable.
This class is to be pitied. Maturer years may teach
them better."
Accidentally mentioning my interest in the Wa-
bash country as a field for agricultural experiment,
I found to my delight that this is a subject on which
Mr. Ellsworth may be said to be an authority. He
co-nfessed that in the five years of his residence here
he has made a study of this subject and is thor-
oughly convinced of the superiority of the Wabash
Valley as a home for the enterprising settler because
of its position, the extraordinary productiveness of
its soil, its delightful climate, and its means of com-
munication with the markets of the Northern and
Southern states. Two years ago he published a book
entitled "Valley of the Upper Wabash, with Hints
of Its Agricultural Advancement, the Plan of a
Dwelling, Estimates of Cultivation and Notices of
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 243
Labor-Saving Machines." He showed me a copy
of this work, and I perused with interest his descrip-
tion of the geographical position of the Wabash
Valley, the railroads which it is hoped ere long will
be constructed, the discussion of the soil and its
products and the products that can be grown on
these fertile fields are hay for the New Orleans mar-
ket; flax, from whose seed quantities of oil can be
extracted; beet sugar, hemp, sunflower, etc. He
gives also, with a plan for a neat and convenient
dwelling for the settler, a minute description of a
mowing and reaping machine recently invented by a
Mr. Hussey of Cambridge, Md., which is especially
adapted for use on a large prairie farm, and also of
a ditching and banking machine.
The book is written in a most interesting style and
closes with an eloquent chapter on the effects re-
sulting from the rapid means of intercourse
between distant nations and an impassioned ap-
peal to all true Americans to preserve their
country — the abode of liberty — at any cost, from
disruption.
"And above all, let us guard against contentions,
schisms, and disunions. Pluck not a single plume,
cripple not one pinion of the heaven-daring bird we
have chosen as our symbol. Let his flight be still as
far, as strong and as fearless. Let him soar amid
the full effulgence of a noon-day sun and that the
sun of liberty ! Pluck not out one star from the rich
group that sparkles in our country's banner! Let
them shine in all the brightness of untarnished
244 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
lustre as a beacon to the storm-tost nations of the
earth, of the home which they adorn. Let them
shine, outshone by none save those brighter constel-
lations of a world above." *
*In the light of future events in their country's history, it is
interesting to think of this ardent young Southerner reading with
Buch delight this appeal for loyalty written by a New Englander. —
Editor.
CHAPTER XV
Crawfordsville, July 6, 1840.
THREE events of my visit in Lafayette stand
out above all others, never to be forgotten — a
political speaking, an evening party at the
home of the Rev. Mr. Johnson and a Fourth of July
celebration.
My subsequent journey over the Wea Plains, a
scene of enchanting beauty, and my arrival in this
delightful town have served to strengthen rather
than to efface the impressions made by that visit.
When I recall that galaxy of brilliant men, that com-
pany of elegant and beautiful women and when clos-
ing my eyes the vision of the lovely Julia again rises
before me, then — ah, then, I know that I have graven
it deep upon the tablets of my memory, never to be
effaced !
Mr. Ellsworth had most genteelly accompanied me
to the office of Rufus A. Lockwood to whom I had a
letter given me by Mr. Biddle of Logansport, and
it was through his offices that I found myself at the
political speaking.
I had already been informed that Mr. Lockwood
is a gentleman of marked eccentricities but of great
intellectual powers. Mr. Ellsworth told me that he
has again and again heard him plead in court, and
that he is each time more deeply impressed with the
245
24(5 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
superbness of liis diction, his style and his deliver^/.
Mr. Hannegan had mentioned him on our stage
coach journey. When I informed him that my
itinerary included Lafayette, he remarked that as
an orator, Mr. Lockwood is not unlike Joseph Glass
Marshall of Madison, both of whom he had heard
speak in a certain trial.
''However," said he, "Mr. MarshalPs argu-
ment was from first to last, a splendid conflagration;
Mr. Lockwood 's, a slower more consuming fire."
The speaking to which Mr. Lockwood himself con-
ducted me was held outdoors in a grove on the out-
skirts of the town.
The speaker, he informed me, is a senator at this
time, the Hon. Albert S. White.^ I subsequently
met Mr. White at the inn, where, as he is a bachelor,
he makes his residence, having an office in another
part of the city. The day was fine, not too warm,
and the attendance was quite large, a number, so Mr.
Lockwood informed me, having come in from the
country, for this town is surrounded by fine farms,
and its farming class is intelligent and prosperous.
A wagon had been driven underneath a giant
beech tree, the horses unhitched, and in the back of
the wagon, Mr. White took his stand. It was a most
interesting scene. Here were gathered people from
town and country, men in broadcloth and beaver
hats, others in the rude garments of the pioneer
farmer. There were graybeards leaning upon
' Mr. Parsons fails to mention it, but Mr. Lockwood was the
partner of the speaker of the day, the Hon. Albert S. White. Mr.
Wliite was one of the ablest and most popular lawyers in the state,
and Mr. Lockwood soon proved himself his equal. — Editor.
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 247
canes; there were young boys who had left their
games of marbles and mumble-peg to come to the
meeting; all gathered together eagerly listening to
this small, narrow-chested young man, who with his
thin face and Eoman nose could not be called hand-
some. His voice is fine, however, his manner most
pleasing, and in a little while I perceived that he is
a most strong and convincing speaker.
He held a document in his hand, to which he oc-
casionally referred for items and facts, and he be-
gan his address with an attack on the extravagance
of the Van Buren administration, charging it with
lavish and unnecessary expenditure of public money
in furnishing the White House and beautifying
its gardens and grounds. For all this, he de-
clared, Mr. Van Buren is responsible, this man who
eats from gold spoons, also purchased with the
public money, and this at a time when most of the
people of the United States are still using spoons
made of horn and wood. He read from the paper
the account of the purchase of a large number of
young trees of the "morus multicaulis. "
*'My Latin is a little rusty," he explained, **but I
understand this to mean the many-leaved mulberry,
whose foliage is fed upon by the silkworm. The
President is evidently going into the mulberry trade
in order .to procure, I presume, silk napkins, table-
cloths and towels to match the golden spoons. But
let me say, gentlemen, that there is another tree
which would have been far more appropriate to
adorn the lawns and gardens of the executive
mansion than the morus multicaulis ; that tree is the
248 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
ulmus lubrica, rendered into English, the slippery
elm!"
At this there was loud applause and much
laughter, with shouts of ''Down with the Kinder-
hook Wizard" and ''Little Van's a used-up man!"
When the crowd again became quiet, Mr. White
dropped into a more serious vein and described the
great Whig national convention at which he was
present; he detailed Gen. Harrison's government of
Indiana Territory ; told of the faithful and long con-
tinued safe-guarding of white settlers on the fron-
tier; his treaties with the Indian tribes; his defeat
of the Prophet at Tippecanoe and the subsequent
overthrow and death of Tecumseh at the Thames,
closing with an appeal full of force and feeling to
the old soldiers and settlers of Indiana to stand by
their former friend and commander.
I thought the applause would never cease when he
had concluded. Men threw their hats in the air,
clapped their hands, shouted and huzzaed. It was
evident that Mr. White is a man of great popularity
as well as ability.
As I approached with Mr. Lockwood to be pre-
sented to him, I observed part of the secret of his
popularity. He is extremely affable, and I noted
again as we walked into the town in his company
that his greetings to the young boys whom we met
and to whom he always touched his hat, was ever as
agreeable as it was to his elders.
^ I learned in the course of our pleasant conversa-
tion that he is a graduate of Union College and came
to Lafayette eleven years ago. I had already dis-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 249
covered that he is a ripe scholar, his speech was full
of classical allusions, his references and quotations
from the most noted thinkers and writers disclosed
the wideness and depth of his learning.
'Twas on the evening of this same day that the
Rev. Mr. Johnson had invited me to a small com-
pany at his home, and I must confess that my mind
had dwelt continually on this event with the greatest
anticipations of pleasure. Much as I have enjoyed
my experiences in the wilds, the crude life, the ad-
venture, yet the thought of again mingling with
those of my own kind and my own age in social inter-
course was irresistibly attractive.
I found the little company assembled when I ar-
rived at the house, for I had spent some time at my
toilet, arraying myself in my bro^vn broadcloth coat
with the velvet collar, drab pantaloons and Monroe
shoes with brass buckles. My host I found as
charming as he had been on the day of our first meet-
ing; his manners are marked by a childlike sim-
plicity, and his countenance wears the pale cast of
thought. It was evident that these young people
whom he has gathered around him are bound to him
by the ties of love and affection as well as of simi-
larity of taste.
I learned here, on commenting to a young gentle-
man on the excellence of the music I had heard at
the church on Sunday, that this music is widely
known and that the special music given by the choir
at Easter and Christmas brings large crowds to the
church from the town, the country, and even from
other towns.
250 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
In my occasional visits to the capital of my state
and to Washington I have been a guest at various
parties where there has been a vast amount of grace-
ful pantomime and pretty conversation, sometimes
sparkling, mostly, I must confess, silly; where there
have been Italian music and American dancing;
pyramids of ice cream and piles of confectionery
and mountains of cakes; where the guests talked
about the last opera and quoted long Italian names,
and criticized the new theater and the star actresses,
or indulged in little side eddies of gossip. At the
time, I thought it all most enchanting and edifying,
but I must confess, no social gathering I have ever
attended, has had for me the interest, the charm, of
this at Mr. Johnson's. The simple rooms, candle
lit, with their plain mahogany furniture, the wild-
wood flowers disposed with such taste, the handsome
young gentlemen in their broadcloth and ruffled
shirts, the beautiful young females in gowns of silk
or of cambric, the music, the sweet voices, the light
laughter, the edifying and intellectual conversation,
I shall probably never again, take it for all in all,
experience another such evening.
'Tis impossible to transcribe all the events of this
evening. When I write of the episode of Julia 'tis
not that I need to do so to fix her image in my mind.
Far from it — 'tis ineffaceably graven on my
memory, on, alas, my heart! Julia, in white book
muslin with blue sash, her bright brown hair looped
in smooth bands over her ears, most timid and
maidenly, until she lifted those white lids, and one
perceived gazing forth from those glorious dark
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 251
orbs, the spirit of proud, impassioned youth I And
when she sang, and when she talked, such charm,
such grace, such cleverness in conversation I have
never before heard from the lips of a young female.
Mr. Johnson had recently been sent by a friend in
the East, the autographs of some famous English
writers, and these he now exhibited to us. The first
was the autograph of the Honorable Mrs. Caroline
Norton. "Poor lady," he said, "I sympathize with
her in her domestic sufferings."
* ' What ? ' ' exclaimed his wife. * ' I thought you al-
ways blamed her for leaving her husband's protec-
tion."
'*I no longer blame her for leaving her husband
since I have had the opportunity of learning the
abuse she has suffered." •
"No good wife ever left a good husband," replied
his wife, "and it is very doubtful to me whether a
wife ever improved her own happiness by leaving a
bad husband."
"Her conduct since her separation has been above
reproach," the minister responded warmly, "and
her genius has been, as it were, endowed with new
life ; for genius often seems to require crushed affec-
tions for its sacrifice."
"I have heard," remarked one of the young
gentlemen, "that some of the English reviewers
have styled her * the female Byron. * ' '
"For that I am sorry," said Miss Julia, who, it
seems, is something of a blue, "for it seems to imply
more of passions than affections and the last are
so much more the province of woman's poetry
252 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
that I tMnk the critic paid her a poor compliment."
** Critics often consider more the effect than the
truth of these comparisons," replied Dr. Johnson.
**It is a very pretty turn of expression, this * female
Byron/ and Mrs. Norton may have fallen a little
too much into his hahit of dwelling too much on his
own sorrows; but there the similarity ceases. She
is tender and devotional in her sorrows and wrongs ;
Byron, terrible and misanthropical in his injuries
and resentments."
My friend Mr. Ellsworth launched into a eu-
logium of Eliza Cook, whose autograph he had
found and whom he declared deserved the laurel,
displaying as she does more native poetical talent
than any female writer now living in Great Britain.
''She displays such originality," he persisted.
"Listen to this:
" 'Hold up your heads, ye sylvan lords,
"Wave proudly in the breeze ;
Our cradle bands and coffin boards
Must come from the forest trees.'
"The idea- in the third line was never probably
expressed before," he continued. "It strikes the
reader at once as original, bold and true. Such
new thoughts, vivid as a flash from a dark cloud, and
strong enough to paint the rush of the cataract, are
not infrequent in her productions. She wants a
little sweetness, a little grace at times, but she will
gain these by and by, when she marries."
"La! la!" cried Miss Julia, tossing her pretty
head.
"I mean it," said Mr. Ellsworth earnestly. "She
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 253
only needs to become a wife and mother to know the
real tenderness of the heart, and then her lyre will
assume all the softness it needs to make its tones
perfect; it is now, at times, harsh.'^^
'Twas soon after this most learned and edifying
conversation that music was called for. The violin
was played by the gentleman of the choir; there
were some instrumental selections and then Miss
Julia sang. 'Twas a little song, the words by Mrs.
Hemans, entitled **The Stranger's Heart," and
when it was received with much applause she was
besought again to favor us. She refused at first,
but when I, standing close to the piano, besought her,
telling her in low tones that this was the first music
I had heard on my journey, and that, after another
day, I should again set forth into the wilderness, she
turned the stool and sang a gay little melody, the
music by Miss Augusta Browne, Professor of the
Logierian system of music, and the piece, I noted
that I might purchase it, is to be had at Osbourn's
Music Saloon in Philadelphia. The words I jotted
down with her permission :
"Dost thou idly ask to hear
At what gentle seasons
Nymphs relent when lovers near,
Press the tenderest passions?
Ah ! they join their faith too oft
To the careless wooer;
Maidens' hearts are always soft;
Would that men were truer!
'It is fortunate for us that Mr. Parsons' admiration for Misa
Julia led him to record this conversation which gives so illuminating
a glimpse into the literary tastes and standards of the time. — Editor.
254 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
"Woo the fair one when around,
Early birds are singing.
When o'er all the fragrant ground
Early herbs are springing;
When the brook side, bank and grove,
All with blossoms laden,
Shine with beauty, breathe of love,
Woo the timid maiden.
"Woo her when with rosy blush
Summer eve is sinking;
When o'er rills that softly gush
Stars are softly winking;
When through boughs that weave the bower
Moonlight gleams are stealing;
Woo her till the gentle hour
Wakes a gentler feeling."
We were served after this with a most delicious
repast of floating island and pound cake made by
Mrs. Johnson from her tried New England recipe,
and the party was then over much too soon. I had
the pleasure of escorting the fair Miss Julia to her
home, or, to speak more correctly, half the pleasure,
for on the other side of her strutted a pert young
coxcomb in blue broadcloth and white beaver hat,
by name Jones, who monopolized the conversation
and had the impertinence at the gate to ask for one
of the pink roses from her garland. She suffered
his impertinence, not well being able to help it, but
as we parted I felt the slight pressure of her fingers
returning that of mine, and I, too, received one of
the pink roses, which even now reposes over my
heart.
The next day was the Fourth of July and I was
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 255
invited as a special guest to be present at a great
celebration and dinner in honor of the occasion.
I have attended many Fourth of July celebra-
tions, but never one planned on lines of such magni-
tude and carried out with such perfection of detail.
On this occasion I met some of the notable men of
the town, of whom there is a surprising number,
Mr. Sandford C. Cox, Dr. Elizur Deming, a phy-
sician of prominence; Mr. Martin L. Pierce, who is
the present sheriff — these gentlemen all from the
East, and Mr. Lawrence B. Stockton, a Virginian
like myself, who has resided here for sixteen years
and was the county's first surveyor. He drove me
out to his house that evening, a palatial residence
erected five years ago and said to be the largest and
finest in the county. I also made the acquaintance
of Mr. Henry T. Sample, who came here from Ohio,
and of Mr. Moses Fowler, a young man near my own
age, who came here only last year and has engaged
in the mercantile business. He talked to me at some
length of the importance of this city and the busi-
ness opportunities in the way of importing goods
from Southern ports. It seems that he and his
partners have five or six steamers chartered for this
purpose, so were I minded to enter the business
world instead of engaging in the pi-actice of the law,
I should be inclined to choose this city as my loca-
tion.
Among the lawyers who here as elsewhere I found
banded together like brothers, I remember most dis-
tinctly in addition to Mr. TVHiite, Mr. John Pettit,
who came here from New York. Mr. Pettit has
256 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
served in the Legislature and was last year ap-
pointed United States district attorney by President
Van Buren. He is, I am told, no scholar, but has a
mind of great force and an intellect which grasps
successfully great and mighty questions.
With him was his protege, a young man just my
own age whom at first sight I fancied mightily, a Mr.
Godlove S. Orth. I do not flatter myself that I dis-
played any great intuition, however, for I am told
that when he came to this state from Pennsylvania
where he was reared on a farm among the yeo-
manry, and educated at Gettysburg College, he met
Mr. Pettit at Delphi and that this gentleman was at
once so impressed with him that he gave him the
keys to his law office at Lafayette and told him to go
on and take possession as his partner. Mr. Orth
is a tall young man, already inclined to corpulency,
and extremely complaisant in manner.
This Fourth of July celebration began at daylight
with the hoisting of a superb national flag and after
this was unfurled to the breeze, a salute was fired
from some pieces of artillery. The morning was
spent in mingling with friends and acquaintances on
the streets, and at 12 o'clock a procession was
formed in front of the hotel of the highly respectable
citizens of the town and county and a few of the
venerable worthies of the Revolution yet surviving.
This procession moved to a grove in which a plat-
form had been erected under a giant tree, and here
the Declaration of Independence was read by Mr.
Orth, and an eloquent and highly appropriate ad-
dress was given by no less a personage than Mr.
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 257
Tilghman A. Howard,^ the Democratic candidate for
Governor.
I was most pleased to have the opportunity to
hear this eloquent speaker of whom I had heard so
much during my travels in the state. He presents
a most dignified appearance, and it is said is ex-
tremely sober, seldom indulging in levity. In ap-
pearance, he is most striking, being very tall, of
symmetrical form, with coal black hair and eyes,
large and most expressive features. Every gesture,
every expression of his face betokens intellect of the
highest order.
After paying tribute to the veterans of the Revolu-
tion, *Hhe men who in the dark and portentous era
of '76 promptly stepped forth, the avengers of their
country's wrongs, and freely offered themselves a
willing sacrifice at the shrine of patriotism," he
made a most stirring appeal for the support of a
representative democracy. He quoted in conclusion
with most telling effect :
"Where barbarous hordes on Scythian mountains roam,
Truth, mercy, freedom, yet shall find a home.
Where'er degraded nature bleeds and pines,
From Guinea's coast to Siber's dreary mines,
Truth shall pervade the unfathomed darkness there
And light the dreadful features of despair.
Hark! the stern captive spurns his heavy load
And asks the image back that Heaven bestowed.
Fierce in his eye the fire of valor burns,
And as the slave departs, the man returns!"
'Tilghman A. Howard, born in South Carolina in 1797; district
attorney for Indiana, 1832; Congress, 1839. Candidate for Governor,
1840.— Editor.
258 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
After the address the procession again formed
and returned to the hotel, and at 2:30 o'clock we
sat down to an elegant repast at which the utmost
harmony prevailed. Upon the removal of the cloth
the folloudng toasts were drunk with great una-
nimity, amid the roar of artillery and the cheerings
of grateful and happy hearts. These I have copied
from the newspaper, a number of which I secured
before leaving the city : ( 1 ) ' ' The day we celebrate
—the sixty-fourth anniversary of our country's
freedom"; (2) ''the memory of those illustrious
patriots who on the Fourth of July, '76, mutually
pledged to each other their lives, their fortunes and
their sacred honor"; (3) ''the memory of George
Washington"; (4) "the officers and soldiers of the
Revolution — death has thinned their ranks, but their
fame is defended by the shield of immortality"; (5)
"the President of the United States ";( 6 )" the Vice-
President and heads of the departments"; (7) "the
Constitution of the United States — ^like a root in the
rifted rock, it will withstand the storms of faction
and the tempests of party"; (8) "the People — en-
lightened they can never be slaves; ignorant, they
can never be free"; (9) "our Flag— may its stars
ever shine resplendent in glory until the lights of
heaven cease to burn"; (10) "the American fair."
"Oh, woman, woman, thou wast made,
Like Heaven's own pure and lovely light,
To cheer life's dark and desert shade
And guide man's erring footsteps right."
These toasts were followed by volunteer toasts,
for the first of which I was called upon. I proposed
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 259
that we drink *'To the Sovereignty of the People —
let it pervade the globe. ' ' The others that followed
were: ''Our Farmers and Mechanics — the nerves
and sinews of the commonwealth"; "The Militia of
Indiana — when again called into the field of battle
may they imitate the valor of their countrymen at
Tippecanoe"; "Wisdom, Strength and Beauty — our
executive, legislative and judicial departments pos-
sess the first, our army and navy the second, and our
fair countryAvomen the third"; "Gen. Lafayette, the
Companion of Washington — ^may his virtues be ever
engraven on the hearts of Americans"; "The Love
of Country — ^may it always prevail over personal
and party considerations " ; " The People 's Servants
— may they never succeed in becoming the people's
masters. May a generous and enlightened competi-
tion induce them to look solely to the common pros-
perity."
With these toasts, the celebration ended, and the
next day I set forth to the town of Crawfordsville
from which I am now writing, directly south of
Lafayette and in the adjoining county of Mont-
gomery. The road runs over the beautiful Wea
Plains, called, 'tis said, for the Wea or Ouiatenon
Indians, a branch of the Miamis. These prairies,
gently rolling and absolutely treeless as far as eye
can see, gemmed with flowers of all varieties, the
brilliancy of whose coloring baffles all description,
are a most entrancing sight to the traveler. At this
season, the wild rose is in predominance and fre-
quently the entire surface of the plain appears to be
carpeted with these blossoms of ravishing beauty.
260 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
These prairies are sparsely settled, I am told, and
the solitary traveler may ride for hours without
meeting or seeing any one, directing his course by
the distant groves which look like islands in the sea
of grassy plains.
The most notable plant is the bluejoint grass, so
called from the color of its stalk and leaves, which is
dark green with a bluish tint near the ground. It
is indigenous to the prairie and grows to the height
of a man's shoulder, sometimes even high enough
to conceal" a man on horseback. Cattle, sheep and
horses are all fond of it and it is said to remain
juicy and tender until late in the fall, and is an excel-
lent food when cut and dried as hay.
CHAPTER XVI
Crawfoedsville, July 8, 1840.
1 FAILED to record in my last entry in which I
told of my closing days in Lafayette, the man-
ner of my journey to Crawfordsville. I started
off, commonplace enough, in the stage coach, a man-
ner of traveling of which I had by now grown suf-
ficiently weary, when a young gentleman from
Lafayette, the same coxcomb Jones who had aroused
my indignation by his attentions to the beautiful
Julia, proposed that we vary the monotony of the
journey by changing our method of travel. We
would shortly, he said, come to the village of Con-
cord, and he proposed that here we should leave the
coach, send our baggage on by this means, and make
the remainder of the journey on horseback. In that
way we could get a much better view of the beauti-
ful country, we could travel as leisurely or as
rapidly as we pleased, and altogether we would find
this manner of travel most pleasant. A fellow pas-
senger reminded him of a story he had from Judge
Law of Vincennes of a time in 1828 when he and
Gov. James B. Ray, who was at that time a candi-
date for re-election, were traveling over the Wea
Plains, lost their way and lay out all night without
shelter or supper. My companion responded that
that was twelve years ago, when there were far
261
262 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
fewer settlements, and that to such men as our-
selves, the matter of going without food or lodging
was a matter of indifference, anyway.
I hailed his proposal with delight, and in a short
time we were cantering along over the plain, "the
prettiest place this side of Heaven," he declared,
which I found most entrancing in its summer gar-
ment of green, scarlet and pink. Occasionally we
could catch a glimpse of the silvery river, along
which grew clusters of hawthorn and wild plum
trees overgro^m with honeysuckle. When night
fell, it was still more entrancing, for the moon was
at its full, and poured its silver light over a scene
which would have delighted the heart of a painter.
'Twas on this same night that we overtook the
''movers" encamped by the side of the road.
'Twas an interesting sight, as we approached
them — the two great wagons filled with household
furniture and farm implements, standing at one side
of the road, the horses unhitched and tethered near
by. Here also were the cow, the colts and a few
sheep.
They had kindled a fire and were cooking their
supper over it, the mother and two half -grown girls,
pretty, though shy creatures, while the father and
his sons were busying themselves about feeding the
cattle and disposing of them for the night. We
drew rein as we approached, and asked some ques-
tions. The family, it seems, had come two years
ago from North Carolina and had settled in the
northern part of the county. Two months ago, the
man had taken up land in the southern part of this
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 263
county, and after building liis cabin and clearing a
piece of land, had returned for liis family and Ms
household goods, and they were now all on their way
to their new home. On learning of our destination,
they invited us to share their evening meal, and sug-
gested that we pass the night at their camp. We ac-
cepted their invitation with undisguised eagerness.
I could see that my friend, for all his braggadocio
on the stage, had some fear, after all, of sharing
Governor Ray's fate and lying out all night without
shelter or food, and from the manner in which he
devoured the ham, eggs and Johnny cakes which the
girls shyly brought us, and drank the scalding hot
coffee, I perceived that food was not such a matter
of indifference after all, as he had feigned.
After supper, our new friends again insisted that
we spend the night near their camp fire where we
would be safer from snakes or any prowling animals.
*' 'Tis not a Wabash bedstead," said our host,
"but it will answer the purpose, and we can lend you
all a Kyarliny kiver. It gits right cold out in the
open."
''And what, pray, is a Wabash bedstead?" I
asked, and was told that the settlers who had no
beds were wont to construct them by driving a piece
of a huge sapling upright in the floor for one leg of
the bed, and with smaller saplings fitted into holes
bored in the wall making side pieces and supports
for puncheons upon which were placed the ticks of
straw and feathers, the whole forming a very sub-
stantial and comfortable bed.
A long time we sat in the moonlight around the
264 A TOUB THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
dying fire, talking of the fertile prairies, now
covered with blackberries and raspberries, and of
the great range they afforded for cattle and horses ;
of the game and fish in the streams, plenty and
plenty for these men's sons and their sons after
them/
The talk of danger from wild animals suggested
stories of the wolf hunts which the early settlers
often found necessary, in which the inhabitants of
several neighborhoods, and sometimes of a whole
county, took part. The territory to be hunted over
was circumscribed by four lines sufficiently distant
from each other to inclose the proper area. To each
line was assigned a captain, with his subaltern
officers, whose duty it was to properly station his
men along the line and at the hour agreed upon to
cause them to advance in order toward the center
of the arena. The lines all charged simultaneously
toward the center on horseback, with dogs, guns
and clubs, thus completely investing whatever game
was within the lines and scaring it from the advanc-
ing lines toward the center, where the excitement
of the chase was greatly heightened and the greatest
carnage ensued. Often from two to ten wolves and
as many deer were taken in a day at these hunts., and
wildcats, foxes and catamounts in abundance.
Horses and dogs soon became fond of the sport and
1 Short visioned settlers. In 1860 Mr. Sandford Cox wrote of
tliese "boundless plains:" "For more than fifteen years past these
plains have been like so many cultivated gardens, and as for venison,
wild turkeys and fish, they are now mostly brought from the
Kankakeea and the lake."— Editor.
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 265
seemed to enter into it with a zest surpassing that
of their masters.
With this man was his brother-in-law, a tall,
gaunt young man who, up to this time, had kept
silence. Now he was moved to tell an adventure of
his o^\Ti mth the wild hogs, which, 'tis said, roam
through the woods in some places and are most
dangerous if encountered when in any way enraged.
This young man — his name, I think, was Tucker,
and he, too, had lived for a season in the north-
western part of the county, said that he had had a
most exciting adventure some years ago. He had, it
seems, been the first of the family to come to the
county, having come from Carolina into Kentucky,
and now he had sold his farm and was accompany-
ing his brother-in-law to his new location.
'Twas just such a night as this, he said, bright
moonlight, and he had rambled out before going to
bed into a little valley, near his cabin. He is a shy
youth of few words, but I fancy he is at heart
poetical and that he wandered farther than he
thought under the spell of the moonlight and the
beauty of the landscape. He had climbed one of the
wooded hills that edged the valley, he said, and stood
gazing over the beautiful valley and the silvery river
in the distance, when all at once, a fox darted past
him, barking as it ran. Back it came in a few
minutes, followed by a gang of wild hogs which it
had aroused, and which came in pursuit with a
cracking of bushes, rattling of stones, and gnashing
of teeth. For a moment his heart stood still. He
266 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
could not climb the liuge tree near wliicli he stood, he
had only time to snatch a fallen limb with which to
beat them off. His only hope lay in keeping them
off until his calls could be heard at the cabin, if they
could be heard. He stood fighting the furious gang,
shouting desperately, foreseeing himself devoured
alive, when, presently, his calls heard, his friends
came to the rescue. It was a narrow escape, and he
wiped his brow as he spoke, as though even yet the
very thought caused him to break into a perspira-
tion.
Presently our talk turned into lighter channels —
we told jokes, we sang. The young man who told
the wolf story had a fiddle which, after some per-
suasion, he was prevailed upon to bring from the
wagon, where it hung safely up in the bows, with the
guns, and to its accompaniment we sang homely
songs, ''Old Virginny Never Tire" and "Old Dan
Tucker," songs which I have heard from my cradle
up, in the darky cabins on my father's plantation.
I was pleasantly surprised to learn that these
settlers knew some of the old ballads, too, and we
sang together ''Barbara Allen" and others. The
young girls spoke never a word, though they listened
most attentively to our conversation in which, it
must be confessed, I took a part, for I was im-
portuned to relate the story of my journey from
Virginia to this remote part of the country, and I
felt in the gaze of their deep dark eyes and the in-
terest expressed on their innocent faces something
of the stimulus Othello must have felt when he re-
cited to Desdemona his adventures in field and flood.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 267
At last we lay ourselves down under our home-
spun "Kyarliny kiver" and slept soundly until
dawn, when we again gathered round the fire and
partook of an excellent breakfast, corn bread baked
in a covered skillet piled over with hot coals, a most
delicious concoction, with the added relish of fresh
berries which the young girls, risen early, had
picked, and then, mounting our horses, we galloped
on, after bidding farewell and Godspeed to these
good people who had shown us such genuine hos-
pitality.
I have neglected to state that this young gentle-
man, my companion, is a student of the law in the
office of Mr. Lockwood at Lafayette, and only last
year graduated from a college at Crawfordsville
known as the Wabash College, although its title was
originally ' ' The Wabash Manual Labor College and
Teachers' Seminary." He is, I judge from his
attire and his manner, in affluent circumstances, and
he is going for a visit to his Alma Mater and to at-
tend the Commencement at which a young friend is
to graduate. He is 22, of good form and feature,
and of a gay and lively disposition, and in pleasant
desultory conversation the time has passed most
rapidly.
After we left the ''movers" and entered the
county of Montgomery of which Crawfordsville is
the seat of justice, he gave me much information
concerning the county and town, for, 'tis clearly to
be discerned, he has habits of observation, and is
well fitted by nature as well as education for what-
ever career he chooses to embark in.
268 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
The county, wMch was organized seventeen years
ago, was named for Col. Richard Montgomery.
'Tis marvelous, he says, in the way of natural
beauty and fertility of soil. The northern part of
the county is prairie, interspersed with groves of
timber, oak, hickory, elm and ash; its soil is rich
black loam, mixed with sand. The middle is chiefly
forest land, watered by Sugar Creek and its tribu-
taries. The southern part is gently rolling and
covered with timber, chiefly walnut, and sugar tree,
with a rich loamy soil, and is watered by a creek
called Big Raccoon. This land, he assures me, is so
fertile that the owners grow rich almost without
labor, for it has been said that at the time of the
first settlement a settler no sooner put up a cabin,
deadened fifty or a hundred acres, fenced in fifteen or
twenty, sufficiently cleared to raise a corn crop, than
he asked $800 or $1,000 for his improvements, and
what is still more astonishing, no sooner offered to
sell than he realized the amount in cash. During his
stay at the college he had explored much of the
county, being of an investigating mind, and he told
me of a most beautiful spot some miles away from
the town where two small streams run together and
where the scenery is of stupendous grandeur, with
towering cliffs, deep ravines, waterfalls — altogether
a most marvelous and indeed terrifying scene.
Our ride through the northern part of the county
was uneventful though the landscape was ever of
interest to me. Before entering the town we forded
Sugar Creek, a large stream running diagonally
through the county, and soon came into the town of
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 269
Crawfordsville, named, my companion informed
me, for Col. William Crawford, Secretary of the
Treasury at the time it was laid off. The site was
chosen no doubt because of its proximity to a great
Indian trail that, crossing Ohio, Indiana and Illinois,
gave passage through the wilderness to the tide of
immigration from the East. These settlers were no
doubt also influenced by the neighborhood of several
large springs of pure and medicinal qualities of
water. The growth of the town, he told me, was as-
sured from the first, by the location of the land
office which was moved there from Terre Haute, and
of which Judge Williamson Dunn of Hanover was
the first Register.
I can not now disentangle the sensations of my
first view of this little town and my later impres-
sions; suffice it to say that I have found it, small
as it is, most pleasant to look upon, with its broad
streets and its forest shade. Its material pros-
perity is shown in its new Court House, a two-story
brick building, forty by fifty feet, with a cupola,
which stands upon the public square, and which was
erected, I am told, at a cost of $3,420. I was shown,
too, the Baptist church, the first church erected in
Crawfordsville, on a lot given by Major Whitlock,
of whom I shall have more to say later, a building
of brick, used exclusively for church services, and
which was used by all sects until they were able to
erect edifices of their oa\ti. The Presbyterian
Church was established in 1824, and a building soon
after erected. As in the other places I have visited,
there has been the separation into old school and
270 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
new school, and the new school has only this year
erected a large frame structure. There are here
taverns, merchandise stores, in short the town is in
all respects most thriving.
Something of its growth and prosperity I learned
from Mr. Henry S. Lane ^ upon whom I soon called
in company with Mr. Jones, and to whom I had been
given a letter by Mr. Lockwood.
Mr. Lane is an ardent Whig, has served in the
state Legislature and is now a candidate for Con-
gress, and as he is a popular speaker, he is engaged
in the campaign almost constantly, so that we were
fortunate to find him in his office. Mr. Jones has
heard him frequently, and informs me that he has a
most winning address, that he abounds in anecdotes,
is very felicitous in illustrations and happy in his
applications of them, speaks most fluently, and has
such charm of manner that he is irresistible.
He welcomed us to his office, and on learning who
I was and the object of my visit from Mr. Lock-
wood's letter, made himself most agreeable. He is
a tall, slender young gentleman, just 29 years of age,
with light hair and gray eyes ; his expression is most
kindly, and never have I heard a voice of such
peculiar sweetness. From his voice, his charm of
manner, from his every movement and gesture, I
could comprehend his power over an audience.
=" Henry S. Lane, born in Kentucky in 1811; studied law at 18;
settled in Crawfordsville in 1835; popular and successful criminal
lawyer; state Legislature, 1837; Congress in 1840; worlced for
Mexican War and in this war was commissioned Captain and Lieu-
tenant-Colonel; became Republican on formation of that party;
elected Governor in 1861, served two days and became United States
senator; died 1881. "A gentleman, a patriot, a Christian."— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 271
He at once began to tell me of the town in which
he had cast his lines, as he expressed it, and cast
them, he added, in such pleasant places. The site,
he said, is an excellent one, surrounded as it is with
such fertile fields, and already the township in which
Crawfordsville is located is well settled, was so in-
deed in 1828. The location of the land office at once
added to its growth and prosperity, and now, he de-
clares, the town is a center of trade, of enterprise,
and of education, leading in politics, social life and
general progress.
He inquired as to the method of my travel from
the East, and when I replied that it was by the rail-
road, the stage, the canal boat, horseback, and
steamboat, he told me of the growing interest in
railroads throughout the state. Eight years ago, he
said, books were opened at the clerk's office for sub-
scription to the capital stock of the Ohio & Lafayette
Railroad,^ which is to extend from New Albany to
Lafayette.
Shares were sold at $50 each. A gentleman from
Salem, Mr. Booth, was the president, and two gentle-
men, to whom he introduced me later, Dr. Israel
Canby and John Wilson, were agents to solicit the
subscriptions. He has hopes yet that when the elec-
tions are over and the Whigs in power (he spoke as
though there was no manner of doubt as to the elec-
tion), the country might come out from under this
cloud of depression and become sufficiently pros-
perous to undertake this new enterprise.
^The present Monon line — Louisville, New Albany & Chicago. —
Editor.
272 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
- Mr. Jones remarked that he had heard that Mont-
gomery County was for Van Buren.
Mr. Lane smiled. ''Most amusing! A super-
latively ridiculous idea! Never will Montgomery
swerve from her political faith to bow the knee to
the Baal of Van Burenism. If there be a county in
the state which will adliere to the correct principles
for which it has been so long distinguished, it is the
county of Montgomery. That she will carry the
whole Harrison ticket triumphantly next month,
there can be no question. ' '
Mr. Jones informed him that we had heard Gen.
Howard pronounce the Fourth of July address at
Lafayette.
''Yes, and I have heard him pronounce political
addresses here and elsewhere and heard reports of
these speeches," said Mr. Lane contemptuously.
"He says but very little of Gen. Harrison, less about
Mr. Van Buren. The burden of his speeches is
system, system, Whig mismanagement, Bank of the
United States, soft sawder, democracy — ^bah! But
enough of politics ! This young gentleman, I fancy,
would fain know more of our town. You will find
it agreeable, I am sure," he continued, turning to
me again with a smile. "While our citizens are in
the main of a most polished and intellectual cast,
their hospitality is of the genuine backwoods, log-
cabin kind, free from the affected cant and polished
deception of conventional life. Come, and I will
introduce you to some of our citizens."
With that, he led us out upon the streets, into the
taverns, the stores of general merchandise, where he
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 273
presented me to many of the most respectable
citizens — David Vance, the sheriff; John B. Austin,
George Miller, Frederick Moore, Robert McAfferty,
James Gregory — these last-named gentlemen all
commissioners of the county, who told me something
of the labors of the early citizens, who rolled logs,
burned brush, blazed out paths from one neighbor's
cabin to another, and from one settlement to another,
made and used hand mills and hominy mortars,
hunted deer, turkeys, otter and raccoons, caught fish,
dug ginseng, in short, did everything necessary to
the making of a settlement, and now were reaping
the reward of their labors, taking their ease in this
pleasant and prosperous community.
I met also Maj. Henry Ristine, who had come here
in 1825 and had opened the first tavern; his son,
Benjamin Ristine, just my own age; Maj. Isaac
Elston, proprietor of one of the merchandise stores
and one of the early settlers; Mr. Nicholson, who
o^vns the tanyard and who told me of his voyage
here in a pirogue down the Ohio and up the Wabash
to Sugar Creek; Maj. Randolph Davis, Jeremiah
Stillwell, James Herron, Samuel Gilliland, Dr.
Israel Canby, Mr. Burbridge, the merchant, a most
interesting man; Maj. A^Tiitlock, who was born in
Virginia in 1767, assisted in the erection of Fort
Washington at Cincinnati, engaged in Indian war-
fare at various times, and, under Mr. Jefferson, was
made paymaster, Avith the rank of major, in the
United States Army. Later he was made receiver
of public moneys at the Land Office, which, by direc-
tion of the Secretary of the Treasury, he located in.
274 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
this town. He gave me much information of a
valuable nature and I found him most affable and
pleasing.
I now come to the most pleasant experience of
my many pleasant experiences in Crawfordsville,
which I have left to the last of my record, my visit
to Wabash College.
Young Mr. Jones had told me something of the
founding of the college but I was to hear it again
from another and a greater, on the evening on which
he took me to call at the home of the president. Dr.
Elihu Baldwin, who had been pastor of the Seventh
Presbyterian Church of New York City before be-
coming President of the College. It appears that on
this evening Dr. Baldwin was holding a reception at
his home to which Mr. Jones was invited and he
had asked the privilege of bringing me. When I
recalled that I had met in Indianapolis a daughter *
of Dr. Baldwin, who had urged me when I told her
that I would probably include Crawfordsville in my
itinerary, to pay my respects to her father, he was
even more agreeable, and I had marked him at once
as a man of great urbanity as well as of kindness
of heart.
'Twas Dr. Baldwin who introduced me to Dr.
Hovey, professor of chemistry and natural science,
and Dr. Hovey told me the story of the founding
of the college in the wilderness, how he and four
other young men, all home missionaries to the Wa-
* Either from haste or from failure of memory, Mr. Parsons has
omitted the name of this daughter of Dr. Baldwin who lived in
Indianapolis. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 275
basil country and all very poor, finding the fields
ripe for the harvest and the laborers few, realized
that somewhere in this country a college must be
founded in which young ministers could be trained
for the service. Simply and modestly he told the
story of their labors, how Judge Dunn had given the
land; how they had organized the college seven
years ago, planning at first only a classical and Eng-
lish High School to rise into a college as soon as it
was demanded. He told the story of their early
struggle to secure funds, of the coming of Dr. Bald-
win and their help from the East, of their building,
and then of the disastrous fire two years ago ; and of
their determination not to be thus thwarted, and of
the new building now completed and occupied.
Simply he told the story, but it was as though his lips
had been touched with coals from the altar, and as
he spoke I pictured the scene he described so vividly,
the earnest young men going to the spot in the
primeval forest selected for their building, and
kneeling there in the snow dedicating the grounds
to the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost for a
Christian college.
The same evening will ever remain a memorable
one to me for 'twas then I met for the first time a
man whom I regard as one of the greatest men I
have met in the Western country, Caleb Mills,'^ Pro-
fessor of Languages in the College.
Professor Mills is a native of New Hampshire
■^Indiana's debt to Caleb Mills for its present school system is
too well known to make further note necessary. Its history is
given in "Caleb Mills and the Indiana School System," by Charles
W. Moores, published by the Indiana Historical Society. — Editor.
276 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and a graduate of Dartmouth College and of the
Andover Theological Seminary.
He came out to the Wabash country in 1833, a
young man who had just married. We at once en-
tered into conversation, for he expressed interest
in my journey and told me of his early visits in
southern Indiana and Kentucky in the interests of
schools, and how much he had desired to have a
college founded here in the wilderness. ^'Two
things," said he, "are most important in this coun-
try, the common schools and the preaching of the
gospel, and I hold one as important as the other.'*
He told me how in his travels through the country
he had come to realize that the children of men who
had come out to the Western country, themselves
college graduates, were to be deprived of the com-
monest education because of the lack of schools and
of suitable teachers and he saw that the population
would speedily sink lower and lower unless the
condition was soon remedied. It was necessary
that the people should be made to see that they must
have schools, and that in order to have schools and
to keep churches going, they must have a college
in which the young teachers and preachers could be
trained. His desire most of all was to establish a
classical school to train competent teachers to
spread over the country to teach the children of
these rapidly populating districts; to change public
sentiment in regard to free schools, to awaken it to
the need of carrying the means of education to
every door.
I was not slow to perceive as he talked, how fine
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 277
a scholar lie is, liow modest, how courteous, how
conscientious. And as I looked into his face, and
met the kindly glance of his fine eyes, I thought,
here now is a man who has come into a community
without a thought of self, who is willing to give all
his strength, all his wisdom, for the betterment of
his kind. He more than any man I have met in this
country, has looked forward, has had a vision of the
days to come. He has been able to see the future
of this loved "Wabash country, when its forests will
be leveled, its fields all tilled, its population doubled,
yea, trebled, and he is even now engaged in forging
the weapons by which its insidious enemy. Ignor-
ance, shall be laid low. Noble man! To hear him
was to forget all thought of self, to yearn to do
something, as he is doing, for the betterment of
one's kind. Long may it be before I forget that
kindly countenance!
Professor Mills lent me a catalogue of the College
from which I might copy some' of the items, for I
was interested to note how it compares with my own
University, and also with other institutions of learn-
ing in the state which it is my purpose to- visit. The
faculty consists of Dr. Baldwin, who is President
and Professor of Intellectual and Moral Philosophy;
Mr. Hovey, M. A., Professor of Chemistry and Nat-
ural Science; Mr. John S. Thomson, M. A., Pro-
fessor of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy;
Professor Mills, Professor of Languages; and Mr.
Thomas S. Milliga.n, B. A., Tutor. The courses are
divided into four departments, the Classical, the
Physical, the Rhetorical and the Department of In-
278 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
tellectual and Moral Philosopliy. In Greek, Homer,
Xenophon, and Demosthenes are studied; in Latin,
Cicero and Horace with exercises in the composition
of Greek and Latin. In Physics, Algebra, Geome-
try, Trigonometry, Analytics, Mechanics, Optics,
Astronomy, Chemistry, these last two in lectures.
Mineralogy and Geology. In the Rhetorical depart-
ment. Rhetoric, Criticism, original declamation and
forensic discussions occupy the year, and in the de-
partment of .Intellectual and Moral Philosophy, the
texts include Paley's ''Natural Theology," Butler's
** Analogy," "Moral Philosophy," ''Evidences of
Christianity," and "Political Economy."
I made note also of the fact that the tuition is $7
a term, there being three terms a year, extending
from Sept. 17 to the last Wednesday in July, the
room rent, $3 a. term, the board in private families,
$1.50 a week. For indigent students there is a text
book library from which books may be procured, and
these same indigent young men have an opportunity
to earn their expenses by cutting wood, being paid
311/4 cents a cord for their labor.
The senior class of this year numbers six, the
sophomore, five; the freshman, thirteen; the pre-
paratory, seventy-six, making a total of 100.
Mr. Jones desired that I meet some of his young
friends, and 'tis but an indication of the frivolity
of youth, I suppose, that I should turn so readily
from the conversation of these great men and good
to the chatter of the young gentlemen by whom the
popular and vivacious Jones was surrounded.
Among them were all the members of the senior
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 279
class, Smitli Fry, George Miller and Ebenezer
Palmer of Crawfordsville, Alex Lemon of Tippe-
canoe County, Jones 's friend, whom he had come to
see graduate ; Mr. Newbury of Harrison County and
Franklin Robb of Princeton. Among the sopho-
mores I remember particularly Dr. Canby's son,
Charles; Maj. Elston's son, James; Henry Ristine,
Jr., and young John Maxwell Cowan, just 19, he
told me, whose father is a Virginian.
As I turned to meet them, they were in a circle
about Jones, who was taking on some airs, I per-
ceived, as a graduate and a student of the law, and
I fancied as I approached that he had been boasting
of his conquests. ''And have you yet seen the fair
Susan?" asked one. "Of course that is why you
have returned — you say it is Alex's commencement,
but we know it is Susan. ' '
As Jones blushed and turned the subject, my heart
lightened. He had referred to Julia several times
on our journey without a blush or an indication of
embarrassment. It must be Susan, then. My heart
warmed to him as I watched him in conversation
with his comrades. A fine fellow, Jones, a young
gentleman of parts !
CHAPTER XVII
PUTNAMVILLE, JuLY 26, 1840.
THE road from Crawfordsville runs directly
soutli through Montgomery and Putnam
Counties into Greencastle, the seat of justice,
with but few stops at insignificant villages. The
county, so far as I was able to observe, is, in the
northern part, either level or slightly undulating ; in
the center, and Greencastle is situated in exactly the
center of the county, it is more rolling, and quite
hilly in the neighborhood of the streams. The
timber is the usual beech, sugar, walnut, ash, oak,
and poplar, and the soil, so far as I could observe,
a rich black loam, excellently adapted, I was in-
formed, to the production of wheat, corn, grass,
hemp and fruit.
The town of Greencastle, into which I came by
stage in the evening, is very small and unpre-
tentious. The houses are mostly of logs, with the
exception of the Methodist and Presbyterian
Churches, which are one-story brick edifices, and the
streets are so-called only by courtesy. Locomotion
is at all times difficult but, as one of the citizens
pointed out to me, jestingly, in muddy weather it is
necessary to exercise great precautions in crossing
the ravines on the logs which are used as foot-
bridges. I have already learned, however, that
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 281
these pioneer settlements are not to be judged by
their outward appearance, and that in the most un-
prepossessing surroundings I am likely to find
citizens of great business ability and men of educa-
tion and refinement, so that time only is necessary to
change the pioneer settlement into a thriving towTi.
I betook myself at once to the tavern of which I
had been told by friends in Crawfordsville, Wash-
ington Hall, kept by Col. John Lynch, which I dis-
covered to be an inn of some pretensions. Mine
host, I soon learned, is a great admirer of Andrew
Jackson, whom he in some measure resembles, and,
I noted, takes great pride in the resemblance. On
learning the nature of my journey, he immediately
made me most pleasantly at home, and introduced
me to a number of the respectable gentlemen of the
community, who were gathered in the cool of the
evening in the front of the tavern, engaged in con-
versation.
In the course of my travels, I have learned to
value the inn where, winter and summer, are
gathered the men of the community and the
travelers, the la^vyers, and judges, where all public
questions are discussed, arguments engaged in,
sallies of wit exchanged. Certainly no better place
can be found for the traveler who would learn the
nature and temper of the community in which he
stops for the moment.
I was especially fortunate this evening, for here
I found gathered a number of the citizens, among
them Judge Joseph Farley, the first Probate judge,
I am told, associated in the publication of the first
282 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
paper, and a man who took part while still a resi-
dent of Kentucky in the expedition against the In-
dians who committed the great Pigeon Roost mas-
sacre, of which I have heard much since coming into
the state. Here were also several of the county
officers— David Rudisill, the sheriff; William E. Tal-
bott, the recorder of deeds ; William H. Shields, the
surveyor, and the county clerk, Arthur McGaughey.
This last-named gentleman I met again, for upon his
invitation I stopped at his farm, three miles south
of Greencastle, on my way to Putnamville, where I
found great pleasure in meeting his family, par-
ticularly his wife, a woman of unusual strength of
character and remarkable energy,- of which last-
named quality she showed me an unusual product.
On a large and flourishing mulberry tree on their
place she has cultivated silk worms, prepared the
thread, and from it knitted a pair of gloves for
her son Edward, a young gentleman of my own
age.
Mr. McGaughey is somewhat past 50, I should
judge, and is a native of Pennsylvania. He has
lived here several years, his daughter, Mary Jane,
being the first white child born in the county. He
told me something of the character of the settlers,
of whom he is able to speak with authority, by
reason of his long residence here. The early
settlers, he informs me, came mostly from Ken-
tucky, Tennessee and North Carolina, many of them
because of the growing disapproval of slavery, and
they are of high moral character, are honest, in-
dustrious, charitable toward their neighbors, and
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 283
amply imbued with the principles of the Christian
religion.
At the tavern I met also the proprietor of a farm
north of the town, Colonel Alexander Farrow, who
informed me that he had brought blue grass seed
from Kentucky and sowed it successfully in his
fields. He is a most interesting gentleman who
gave me much information concerning the Western
country, and was, so he told me, appointed a colonel
of the fifty-sixth regiment of militia by Governor
Noble. There was present also a la^vyer, a Mr.
Henry Secrist, whom I found a most genial and in-
teresting gentleman, and who, I was told later, is
a brilliant la"\\yer, a fine speaker, and a young man
of keen wit. To my great delight, I learned that
several of these gentlemen are trustees of the col-
lege, Mr. James Talbott, who is also the postmaster,
Mr. Rees Hardesty, a cabinet maker, a sturdy citizen
of great worth, and president of the board of trus-
tees, Capt. W. H. Thornburgh, the most enterprising
business man of the town and a man of taste, as I
soon discovered in our conversation, and Dr. A. C.
Stevenson.
Dr. Stevenson, who is a tall, dignified gentleman
is, I learned later from Col. Lynch, a physician of
prominence and a native of Kentucky, who sought
this state because of his opposition to slavery. He
conversed with me most entertainingly on the sub-
ject of education in the West, in which because, per-
haps, of my acquaintance with Professor Caleb
Mills, I take greater interest than heretofore. Dr.
Stevenson is one of the trustees of Asbury College
284 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and is, as is Professor Mills, an advocate of the
establishment of free schools, in which, he insists, in
addition to the regular curriculum, training should
be given in agriculture and the mechanical arts. I
learned, too, that he has served in the Legislature
and is a follower and great admirer of Henry Clay.
Here to my great delight I heard again the name
of Calvin Fletcher, who, I am told, is one of the
trustees of the College.
From these gentlemen I learned something of the
establishment of the College, which is named for the
celebrated pioneer bishop, Francis Asbury. An-
other bishop, Bishop Roberts, has been most active
in its founding, and most deeply imbued with the
spirit of sacrifice, since, 'tis said, he gave out of his
salary of $200 a year $100 to the new institution.
It has been many weeks since I left my friend,
Louis Hicklin, the circuit rider, whose society I had
enjoyed so greatly in the early part of my journey
and from whom I had learned so much of the spirit
of these circuit riders, one of whom was described
to me as ''a man of iron frame who traveled the
district from Bloomington to Crawfordsville, who
could swim rivers and climb mountains to reach his
appointment, and who died as he lived, full of faith
and the Holy Ghost," and now again I was come
among them and was to hear the story of their
carrying the tidings of this new school far and wide
among the people of their appointments.
These men had felt, as did the young Presbyterian
missionaries in Montgomery County, the need of a
higher institution of learning in the Western coun-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 285
try, and accordingly three of their ministers, Calvin
Ruter, Allen Wiley, of whom I had heard much in
Indianapolis, and James Armstrong, were requested,
in 1832, to report at the Conference on the advisa-
bility of establishing a higher school of learning to
furnish its people with both intellectual training and
the means for spiritual growth.
When the establishment of such an institution
was agreed upon, several towns were competitors
for the site, Putnamville, Rockville, Madison, In-
dianapolis, Lafayette and Greencastle, and a very
large subscription was offered by Putnamville in
particular, but Greencastle having presented the
largest subscription, was the site selected. At this
time, the population of the town numbered but 500.
The College, these gentlemen informed me, was
opened at first on a very small scale, in an old school
building, but last September the first regular faculty
entered upon the duty of teaching in the new build-
ing, with eleven students enrolled.
I bade good night to these new-found friends who,
in our few hours ' intercourse had shown me such
courtesy that I consider myself justified in calling
them friends, and sought my bed, but I could not
sleep. All the while these gentlemen were talking
of the College I had been trying to remember some-
thing which had some connection with this school,
and which I should remember. And all at once it
came back to me.
On the day in Brookville which I spent with young
Mr. Shirk, one of the most delightful days of my
entire experience, he had told me of a young friend
286 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
of his who was in Greencastle attending Asbury Col-
lege, one Tom Goodwin, he had called him, who
would graduate in September, and he had urged me
to seek him out if by chance I should visit Green-
castle. Goodwin ! The name recalled, I determined
to seek him out early in the morning.
The next day chanced to be Saturday, and on in-
quiring of Col. Lynch, I was directed to the house
at which the young gentleman is boarding. I found
him, and, moreover, found, him all that my friend,
Mr. Shirk, had described him to be. He is just 22,
a year younger than I; born in Brookville, but of
Virginia descent; he is tall, slender, with very keen
eyes, and a manner which I have learned char-
acterizes the Hoosiers, as they sometimes call them-
selves, of high degree; a free and easy manner,
though with no tincture of familiarity; a most en-
gaging warm-heartedness and interest in all whom
they encounter; a natural independence of manner
and thought — most admirable in all its manifesta-
tions. All of these Mr. Goodwin possesses, and on
hearing my story and of my visit to Brookville and
of my friendship with Mr. Shirk, he again shook my
hand and offered himself as my cicerone.
Off we set toward the College, for it was a sight
of it that I most wished for at this moment, Mr.
Goodwin enlivening our walk by congratulating me
on making my journey in warm and dry weather.
''Better be glad that this is not a rainy day," he
said. ' ' Do you see that gully ? It looks bad enough
now, but when it has been raining for a week or
more, and the water is rushing along, digging it
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 287
deeper and deeper, and you have to balance your-
self along this bridge, if it is not broken down, or if
it is, on a log or two that some kind-hearted person
has laid across, and if your boots are so heavy with
the mud gathered up on the streets that you can't
calculate how and where to set them down, and may
slip, for as the old janitor says, * hit's powerful
slippery mud,' then you can imagine that going to
college or at least going to the college building, is
pursuing learning under difficulties.
''Speaking of mud," ho continued, "would you
like to hear of my first journey to this institution!"
And when I assented, he continued: "An agent of
the college came to Brookville and induced my
father to buy a scholarship, so in November, three
years ago, I set out by stage from Brookville to
Greencastle. You haven't seen our roads in winter
and w^et weather, so you can have no idea what they
are like.
"I left Brookville Wednesday at noon, expecting
to reach Greencastle by Friday night.^
"We should have known better, for it had been
raining for two weeks. However, with high hopes,
I left home in a two-horse coach in which my fellow
passenger and I traveled for seventeen miles. It
took us several hours to travel this distance, and at
that point we learned that the stage to Indianapolis
had been taken off on account of the roads, and that
we must transfer ourselves to a two-horse wagon
without cover or springs.
^Tlie distance to be traveled was one hundred and ten miles, —
Editor.
288 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
*' Fifty-three miles stretched between us and In-
dianapolis, but as we started before daylight Thurs-
day morning, the driver assured me that we would
reach there by ten that night— in time for me to
catch the stage to Putnamville.
*'It rained all day, and the roads grew worse and
worse. The corduroy was floating like a bridge.
Creeks and rivers were bank full, and no bridges.
Night came on, dark as pitch, and we with no man-
ner of light, and at last — our wagon broke down,
stuck in a mud hole.
''The driver finally decided that he would ride
one horse, carrying my trunk before him, while the
other passenger, who was the agent of the stage
line, would ride the other, with the mail pouch be-
fore him and me behind. In this manner, we
reached Indianapolis at 11 o'clock Thursday, too
late for the coach, which meant chat I must spend
all the next day and till 10 o'clock at night, in
Indianapolis.
"We started for Putnamville the next night, to
find the mud even worse than before. In fact, there
was more water than mud from Brookville to In-
dianapolis, while this was mud deep and stiff, and
in a little while, at midnight, in fact, we — the eleven
passengers, two of them females, found ourselves
stuck in a mudhole. Out we got — the men I mean —
and pried the coach out of the mud, then on again,
repeating this process many times. One took rails
from a fence and constructed a corduroy, and the
driver, pleased with our inventiveness, suggested
that we take more rails and carry them on two hun-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 289
dred yards and more to another mudhole which was
worse than this. At this, one of our passengers, a
merchant who had been East for goods, and who had
led the rescue party, informed the driver in profane
language that while he did not mind paying his
passage and Avalking, he'd see him hanged before
he would carry rails and walk.
*'In spite of all this, we finally came to Putnam-
ville, which, you may have learned, is on the Na-
tional Road. What? No?" He made a gesture
of mock surprise. ''Oh, yes, you haven't yet been
to Putnamville. "When you pass through that settle-
ment, if you stop long enough, you mil hear just
such laments as I did over the stupidity of the peo-
ple who would locate a seat of justice and a college
in a towTi that is not on the National Road. My
inn-keeper informed me that there was no stage to
Greencastle, and that my only way of getting there
would be to wait till Sunday, when, for the sum of
$2, he would convey me and my trunk thither in his
two-horse wood wagon, and wait I did. And while
I waited, I heard again and again the lament over
the stupidity of people who would locate a college
off the National Road, in such an out-of-the-way
town as Greencastle, which would never amount to
anything anyway, being off the National Road,
whereas Putnamville has all the advantages of loca-
tion and business. And so on, until I reached
Greencastle and stilled his laments with my $2."
I had not laughed so much since the day that Mr.
Shirk and I sat on our horses outside the country
church and conjured up a vision of the early set-
290 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
tiers. There is something most humorous about
this Goodwin, and anything he tells he knows how
to invest with interest. He has, too, a most con-
vincing manner.
We had by now come within the high board fence
which incloses the college grounds, and beheld the
campus, on which there is little shrubbery, only a
few locusts and other forest trees. The building I
viewed with much interest. It is constructed of
brick, with a hall through the middle, recitation
rooms on either side, and a chapel in the rear, with
an elevated platform. Recitation rooms are on the
second floor ; on the third, museums, the library and
the meeting rooms for the two literary societies,
concerning which I inquired with some interest.
They are called, he informed me. The Platonian and
The Philological, and their purpose is to improve
the young men in public speaking, and also to
familiarize them with the forms of transactions of
most deliberative assemblies. An attic occupies the
fourth floor, and there is a cupola, but, as yet, no
bell.
''This is not the building I saw the day after my
arrival," said Mr. Goodwin, ''and I wasn't even
sure I would find any building, after what the tavern
keeper said to me. When I asked where the college
was he replied, 'I don't know for certain. It was,
last summer, at the district school house, but I have
hearn that they have moved it to the County
Seminary. Be you come to go to it? You'll not
find it much of a university, I reckon. '
"However, I went to church the next morning, in
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 291
my Sunday suit of blue jeans, and sunnnoning cour-
age to introduce myself to the minister, afterwards,
I received a warm reception, for I was the first stu-
dent who had come from outside the to^vn.
Reverend James Thompson was the preacher, and
he called out, 'Hold! Stop, brothers! Here,
Brother Dangerfield, Brother Thornburgh, Brother
Cooper, Brother Hardesty, Brother Nutt, here is
Brother Tommy Goodwin come all the way from
Brookville to attend the institution!' And then,
sir ; you ought to have seen the handshaking I got. ' '
Having expressed a desire to examine the College
Catalogue, and make some notations in my book, as
I did of the Wabash College, Mr. Goodwin procured
me one, from which I have set down the following :
The course of study for the Freshman year is
Sallust and Roman Antiquities ; Graeca Minora and
Algebra, continuing into the second session with
Cicero and Horace, Graeca Majora and Legendre's
Geometry.
The Sophomore year embraces Horace, Tacitus
and Juvenal, Graeca Majora, Trigonometry and
x\nalytical Geometry, continuing in the Junior year
into Calculus, Ancient and Modern History, Chemis-
try, Rhetoric and Logic.
In the Senior year, Natural Philosophy is con-
tinued from the second session of the Junior year,
Geology is taken up. Mental Philosophy, Political
Economy, the Law of Nations, Paley's Theology,
Moral Science and Evidences of Christianity. Par-
ticular attention is paid, I noted, to composition and
declamation, and the seniors are regularly exercised
292 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
in f orensics. I noted, as of particular interest, that
instruction will be furnished, if desired, in the
Hebrew, French and German languages, ''when
either the inclination of the student or his peculiar
destination may render them desirable."
The collegiate year embraces two sessions or
terms of twenty-one weeks each, the winter session
commencing the first Monday in November, after a
vacation of six weeks, the commencement exercises
being held in September. The tuition per term is
$12, $7 more than the tuition at the Wabash College,
the boarding in private families the same — $1.50 a
week. The discipline is announced as mild but firm,
and parents and guardians are requested not to
furnish funds to the students, but to place the money
in the hands of some member of the faculty or some
other citizen, giving specific directions as to what
amount shall be furnished except for necessary ex-
penses— a quarterly exhibit to be sent to parents
containing items of the accounts. There are about
120 students, all told, in the college at this time.
The other members of the senior class I met
through Mr. Goodwin. One of them, Mr. John
Wheeler, is an Englishman, a young gentleman of
25, with all the English characteristics. Mr.
Madden, the other member, is a Kentuckian, just
Mr. Goodwin's age, and possessed of the ardent
temperament of the Southerner. Mr. Goodwin I'
have already described, and the three present a most
interesting contrast.
To Mr. Goodwin I owe also my acquaintance with
some members of the faculty. The next day was
> A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 293
Sunday, and he informed me that Dr. Simpson,^ the
President of the College, was to preach on that day,
at the Methodist Church, and that it would be well
worth my while to accompany him thither. Ac-
cordingly, I went with him to the little one-story
brick church with its one coat of plastering and its
rude benches, where, in primitive fashion, the men
sat on one side of the room, the women on the other.
Perhaps I was a little more affected than I wish
to admit by the pioneer aspect of my surroundings ;
the rough church, the simple and, in many cases,
poorly dressed congregation; and when I saw Dr.
Simpson enter the pulpit, this very young-looking
man, stooped, with a shock of brown hair growing
very near his eyebrows, clad in the blue jeans of the
men of his congregation instead of the clerical black
to which I am accustomed, I felt great disappoint-
ment and even a wonder that my friend should have
brought me here. He evidently guessed my feeling,
for, catching my eye, he smiled and whispered,
''Just wait."
The hymn was sung, a hymn in which all joined,
untutored voices, 'tis true, but so full of faith and
hope and love that ere I knew it, my eyes were moist,
and I had entered into the spirit of the meeting.
The minister made the prayer and read the lesson,
and then Dr. Simpson stood forth, read the text,
and began his sermon. And had I thought him un-
gainly and rough and unprepossessing? Had I pre-
sumed to sit in judg-ment upon this god among men?
Scarcely had he begun to speak than he took on a
^ Later to become the celebrated Bishop Simpson. — Editor.
294 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
new expression, his eyes burned, his face wore a
look of unearthly beauty. And his voice ; I kept no
record of the sermon, even the text has slipped my
memory, but it now seems to me that whatever
words he may have spoken, had they been in Greek
and Hebrew they w^ould have had the same effect, it
was the voice, the manner, that swayed his audience.
For swayed the audience was by this pathos, this
power. One moment, a hush like death rested over
them, the next moment their shouted '' Amens'* rose
to the heavens. Never, never have I seen such a
sight.
And this young man, so Mr. Goodwin told me
later, has ever this effect. Always at first, the dis-
appointment over his youth, his shyness, his home-
liness, always the triumph of his spoken word.
Dr. Simpson, I learned later, is a native of Cadiz,
0., and is just 29 years old. He came here last year
from Allegheny College, where he was engaged in
teaching. His motto, inscribed in all his books, is
''Read and know. Think and be wise."
It was with great regret that I parted from
young Mr. Goodwin, but I wished to spend a day
in Putnamville, which from all accounts is one of the
most flourishing towns in this region, with a beauti-
ful situation on the National Road. I was directed
by friends to the tavern kept by James Townsend,
and never was a more happy direction given a
traveler.
Mr. Townsend is known as the proprietor of
Putnamville, for he it was who laid out this thriving
town. Having inclinations toward civil engineer-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 295
ing, he had already laid out the town of Morganfield,
Ky., to which he had gone from his native Mary-
land, before coming here. In his society, I found
myself quite at home, and yet, his attitude toward
some of the questions of the hour gave me food for
thought. Mr. TowTisend is a man of 50. He lived,
as I have said, in Maryland and left it for Kentucky,
leaving Kentucky for this state because of his feel-
ing against slavery. He owned a large number of
slaves, so he told me, and on preparing to leave Ken-
tucky, he freed them all, and offered to bring them
North with him. To each of those who wished to
remain behind, he made a present of $50 in money;
for those who accompanied him, he has built cabins,
giving each a home. There are seven of these
former slaves, and when, in his company, I visited
them, old Grandmother Sibley, whom he had
brought out from Maryland; Aunt Hetty, Uncle
Tom, it turned my thoughts toward home. And yet,
when I reflect on my attitude toward this question
at the time I left my home and my attitude now,
for I must note do^\Ti here that, little by little, the
strong convictions of Arnold Buffum and Louis
Hicklin and the many other wise and honorable
gentlemen I have encountered during my journey
through this state have unconsciously changed my
feeling on the subject of slavery; I do not believe
that I could ^\dllingly again become the owner of
human flesh and blood; and I am convinced that
this, more than any other one thing, has made me
wish to cast my lot in the new country.
Mr. Townsend's wife is also a Southern woman,
296 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
and we found many subjects for conversation, for
she has visited widely and knows many of my
mother's friends. I learned that she is a cousin of
Jefferson Davis, whom I had met while on a visit
only last year.
Putnamville is, I believe, one of the most flourish-
ing towns it has been my fortune to visit, and
through the kind offices of Mr. Townsend I have met
many of the respectable citizens and have seen most
of its industries, remarkable in number and variety,
it would seem, for a town only nine years old. The
National Road, here in a very good condition, is a
most interesting spectacle, with its red stage
coaches, passing frequently ; its barns, for the horses
are always changed here, the wagons pushing on to
the West; the ^'movers," the merchants with their
goods, a continual stream of travel from sunrise to
sunset. All this activity brings business to the
town, so its many industries are, after all, not such
a matter for surprise, but I continue to wonder
at the aggregation of men of fine education and
excellent family who have gathered into this
place.
In company with Mr. Townsend I met Worthing-
ton B. Williams, a graduate of Dartmouth College,
who came here from Poughkeepsie, N. Y., to look
after lands bought by his father and who owns a
store of general merchandise and is a man highly
respected in the community; John Hendrix, who
came here from Kentucky to set up a sawmill and
gristmill; John S. Perry and Amos Welker, each
the proprietor of a pottery; William Eaglesfield, a
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 297
keeper of a tavern at Deer Creek ; Dan Hepler, who
owns a flourisliing distillery; Jack Clark, a carpen-
ter and owTier of a store of merchandise; Mr.
Smock, a merchant of prominence; Mr. Griggsby,
a very intelligent man, the proprietor of a harness
and saddlery shop, one of the most important call-
ings here, 'tis said, on account of the large amount
of travel along the road and necessary repairs to
harness, etc. ; Wesley Nance, a stock dealer and large
farmer; the proprietors of two tanneries, whose
names I failed to set down in my commonplace book
and hence can not reproduce here ; Gilmore Connelly
and Flower Swift, both of whom are proprietors of
large holdings along the National Road and citizens
of importance; Mr. Chapin; Benjamin Parks, a
Baptist minister and farmer from North Carolina;
and the pastor of the Presbyterian Church, founded
in Mr. Townsend's home, the Rev. Mr. Ransom
Hawley, who, with his wife, came out from Con-
necticut, where they had been prominent edu-
cators.
I met also the proprietor of another store and a
tailor shop, Albert Layman, a most interesting
gentleman, whose wife I found a charming female
from the East, a graduate, she tells me, of a female
college recently founded there by Miss Mary Lyon.
Her father, I learn, is judge of the Supreme Court
of New York.^
Ever to live in my memory are the hours I spent
in company with Mr. ToAvnsend's son-in-law. Dr. D.
'Judge Estea Howe. The college referred to was !Mount Holyoke.
—Editor.
298 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
W. Layman,* wliose society I found most congenial
and wliose story, lie told me as we sat pleasantly
together on his porcli in the evening.
The sun had set behind the forest trees on the
horizon, and the twilight was gathering around us,
and from the parlor came the tinkling notes of the
spinet which Mrs. Layman's father had purchased
from her French teacher in Kentucky and had
brought with him to Putnamville. The atmosphere
breathed romance, and as I listened to this story of
the National Road, and of the accidents by which
love comes, told in his gentle voice, with the notes of
the spinet struck at intervals, almost as an accom-
paniment, I was moved to wonder if I, too, was
destined in my wanderings to some such happy fate !
''I was born in Pennsylvania," said he, **and be-
ing early left an orphan was reared by relatives in
Augusta County, Virginia. At the University of
Virginia, where I received my education, I formed
a warm friendship with a young gentleman who
came out to Terre Haute, and who wrote repeatedly,
urging me to come to him as soon as I had completed
my medical course.
"Accordingly, one day, driving my faithful horse
and carrying all my worldly possessions, I set out
over the National Road for Terre Haute.
''My first unusual experience was at Zanesville,
0., where I encountered an epidemic of typhoid
fever, and remained for a week to assist in the care
* Father of Mr. James T. Layman of Indianapolis. After a long
and most successful career in Putnamville, Dr. Layman died in
Indianapolis in 1887 and is buried at Crown Hill.— Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 299
of the stricken. Tliey besought me to remain
permanently, and 'tis tnie, the location offered
many inducements, but something pushed me on. I
refused their pleadings, and turned my face toward
the West.
*'It was nightfall when I came through Putnam-
ville, and just as I reached Mr. Townsend's inn my
horse fell lame and I must perforce dismount fix)m
my vehicle and remain until he had recovered. 'Tis
a matter of nine years now, and from a lad of your
age I have come to be thirty-two — the horse is long
since over his lameness, and I am still here !
''The reason! Mr. Townsend had a daughter just
seventeen, and the next morning after my arrival
I beheld her for the first time. She was pressing
grapes, all unconscious of my scrutiny, and when I
saw her lovely, serene face, her air of gentle dignity,
I resolved that if the fates were kind, she should be
mine, and I would remain in Putnamville ! "
He paused, and we sat in silence for a season,
pondering over who knows what — life, youth, love I
From him and from others I have learned much
of the life and the work of this admirable man. His
only ambition is in the line of his profession, for
he puts his work above all else, and such is his popu-
larity that no other physician can gain a footing in
this locality. His calls are so many that he keeps
four horses always in his stable, dri^ang them in the
summer and riding horseback in the winter when the
mud makes the roads impassable for vehicles. He
could have won political preferment. I am told he
was urged to accept the nomination for Congress
300 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
four years ago, but refused to sacrifice his pro-
fession to politics. He is interested in politics, how-
ever, for we liave discussed the campaign fre-
quently, and he has told me that he was once a
Democrat, but because of his dislike for Andrew
Jackson has become an ardent Whig, and that he
particularly admires Gen. Harrison.
Mrs. Layman I found as lovely as he had pictured
her, a convent-bred girl of intelligence and charm.
It is with deep regret that I part from these
friends, who recall so vividly the atmosphere of
my home, and set my face toward Terre Haute.
CHAPTER XVIII
Teree Haute, July 16, 1840.
LEAVING Putnamville, charged by Dr. Layman
with many messages for his friend in Terre
Haute, and thanking the providence that had
guided my footsteps among such delightful ac-
quaintances, I found myself in the stage coach, again
on the National Road, on which I had not been since
arriving in Indianapolis. This last stretch of road
toward the state 's western boundary was under con-
struction during last year and the year before, and
is in fairly good condition. There are some excel-
lent bridges with stone abutments across small
streams, and a notably long one, the yellow bridge,
just before one arrives in Terre Haute. There are
many inns along the way, in Clay County, Ken-
nedy's, and, in a delightful situation, upon a hill,
Cunningham Tavern, which last named is fixed in
my memory because it stands just opposite a most
beautiful homestead erected by a Mr. Usher just two
years ago, I was informed, and which is considered
the finest dwelling house in this part of the state.
I had not been long in the stage coach before
noting the physiognomy of the gentleman who was
my vis-a-vis. There was something strangely
familiar in that noble face, the finely curved mouth,
the strong chin, whose squareness was but empha-
301
302 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
sized by its cleaving dimple. When he smiled and
spoke, I recognized his voice at once; he was a
clerical gentleman, a Methodist minister, whom I
had met briefly in Indianapolis, at the home of
Morris Morris, the Rev. Allen Wylie.
Mr. Wylie had recognized me immediately, he
said, and had been waiting to see if I would remem-
ber him. We talked most pleasantly of Indian-
apolis, and of our friends, and then he disclosed to
me that he was going on to attend the closing days
of a camp meeting, and suggested that if I had no
great reason for haste, I would find it well worth my
while to bear him company thither.
Needless to say that I accepted his invitation at
once. I had heard much of these camp meetings,
for this was the season in which they are held. I
was aware that this peculiar style of worship be-
longs to the Methodists, and I felt considerable
curiosity concerning them and was well aware how
pleasant it would be to visit one in company with a
man of the prominence of Mr. Wylie. As we rode
forward, he gave me much information concerning
the church and its practices.
This state, it seems, is divided into districts called
Conferences. At intervals, gatherings known as
Conferences are held quarterly. The camp meetings
are always held in the summer, and take the place
of the Conference for that quarter. They are
largely attended, many eloquent divines are present,
and Mr. Wylie assures me that they are occasions of
great spiritual outpouring, and conducive to great
moral and spiritual good. Unlike the other re-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 303
ligious gatherings I have heard of or beheld in this
state, the debates between those of opposite sects,
for example, there are here* no controversies, only
exhortations to repentance, a continuous effort to
bring the sheep into the fold. There is, Mr. AVylie
declares, a great need of such meetings, because
there is, in this state, a class of well-disposed peo-
ple who have grown up witho-ut much religious in-
struction, and children of families who have run
wild in pursuit of pleasures of the world, and toward
these their efforts are mainly directed. Then, the
occasion is one to strengthen the faith of those al-
ready w^ithin the fold, a time when, undistracted by
either duties or pleasures, they may give themselves
altogether to worship, and renew their spiritual
strength from the Eternal Fountain.
All this is altogether new and unlike anything to
which I have been accustomed, and yet I am aware
that a new life and new conditions may perhaps
demand a new form of worship and,- while anything
so far from the conventions among which I have
been reared was, I will admit, on my first coming
hither, somewhat repugnant to me, I have now
breathed sufficiently the Western air, acquired suf-
ficiently the Western habit of thought, to be fain to
see somew^hat of truth in what he told me. Mayhap,
too, I was the more readily become a convert be-
cause of his eloquence, for he spoke the most
quaintly and yet withal most wisely and convinc-
ingly. I had already \\4tnessed it, and I was again
to observe at this camp meeting, that, while these
circuit riders are not, in the main, educated men,
304 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
yet they have studied the Scriptures so thoroughly,
that their speech, even their common conversation,
is almost altogether that of the Word — simple, most
convincing, often poetical beyond belief. Yea, I
have heard prayers — ^but I anticipate.
We left the stage at some wayside tavern, sending
on my bags to Terre Haute, and rode some distance
on horseback, penetrating deeper and deeper as we
rode into the primeval forest. I thought, as I rode
under these noble trees, centuries old, erect as
marble columns, their heavy branches arching over
us, and came at last into the- oijening chosen for the
**camp grounds," as they are called, that I had
never seen a more beautiful spot nor one more ap-
propriate for such worship. The camp was pitched
on a gentle declivity covered with a large growth
of trees, but no- underbrush, and from a neighboring
spring a little stream rippled, providing water in
plenty for all purposes of the encampment.
In this spot, a hollow square wa^ laid out, the
inner side of which formed the front row of tents.
About midway on the lower side of this square, a
little in front of the line of tents, was erected the
preacher's stand or pulpit, in the rear of which was
a tent which served as a sort of vestry room for the
ministers. From this point tents were put up in
the form of lines fronting together, the rows being
left with proper entrance openings at the corners
of the main avenues. The cooking, I learned later,
was done in the rear of the tents, where also the
meals were eaten. In front of the preaching stand
were log seats for the congregation.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIAN^ IN 1840 305
By day one was impressed by the forest depth and
stillness, the arches of the great trees, the slanting
rays of sunlight on the thick turf; by night, in the
light of the candles thrust into bolts driven in the
trees and of beacons kindled on mounds built up, not
unlike altars, at frequent intervals without and
within the grounds, the heavy shadows throwing
into strong relief the rapt faces of the congregation,
one could but long for the brush of the artist, since
words alone could ne'er depict the scene. I be-
thought me of the lines of our native American poet,
"William Cullen Bryant, which I had read many
times with pleasure, but which I now recalled with
true appreciation. He must have witnessed some
such scene as this, or he could ne'er have written
so feelingly of ''God's First Temples," these groves
where —
" — in the darkling wood,
Amid the cool and silence, he knelt down
And offered to the Mightiest, solemn thanks
And supplication. For his simple heart
Might not resist the sacred influence — "
These backwoods ministers are right when they
choose such spots as this — among these ** venerable
columns," ''this verdant roof," these "dim vaults,"
"these winding aisles," "fit shrine for humble wor-
shiper to hold communion with his Maker,"
There was, I soon learned, a rigid program for
the day, which is strictly followed out. I was
aroused very early, our first morning, by a loud
voice, the voice of some Brobdingnagian, it would
seem, for surely from no ordinary mortal throat
306 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
could such a voice proceed, and obeying Mr. Wylie's
beckoning forefinger, I peered tlirougb the tent en-
trance to see, in the preacher's stand, a man of
ordinary stature, rather uncouth in appearance, clad
in blue liomespun, the skirted coat enormously long,
reaching indeed almost to his heels. His face was
upturned, his eyes closed, and he was bellowing
forth a song which, later, with Mr. Wylie's aid, I
recalled sufficiently to inscribe two stanzas in my
commonplace book. * ' Fishing Peter ' ' was its name,
and the stanzas ran :
"When Christ the Lord was here below,
About the work he came to do,
Before He left His little band
He said to Peter, 'Feed My lambs.'
*'But Thomas was of doubtful mind,
Yet Jesus left him not behind.
'Thomas,' He cried, 'behold My hands!'
To Simon Peter, 'Feed My Iambs.' " '
'Twas fortunate for me that Mr. Wylie, although
most devout, was also most full of fun and life, for
he therefore has told me the amusing sides of camp
life as well as the serious. 'Tis usual, he says, at
the meeting, to call the people together, to indicate
the time for prayers, for meals, for all down sittings
and uprisings; in fact, by means of a horn hung
in the speakers' stand. This man, he said, is old
Father Bennett, known as an ''exhorter;" that is,
not a licensed preacher, but one who speaks God's
word and calls the sinners to repentance at various
' A song of innumerable stanzas much in vogue in southern Indiana
in the forties and fifties. — Editor.
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 307
religious meetings. He possesses, moreover, this
tremendous voice, and 'tis his pleasure, when he at-
tends a camp meeting, to sing this song, a favorite
of his, Avith, says Mr. Wylie, innumerable verses, to
call the people together, and from my own observa-
tion 'twas an undoubted success, for I give my word
'twas heard from one end of the township to the
other.
Mr. Wylie told me many other things which I have
not space to record — some of the humors of the
meeting — for when these simple people are over-
come with emotion they are wont sometimes to ex-
press themselves in most amusing fashion, and to
express their conversion in most amazing terms.
One young man, Mr. Wylie told me, insisted that no
one was converted until he could smell fire and
brimstone, and that he himself smelt it. AVlien the
minister assured him that this was imagination, and
tried to turn his mind toward Christ, he declared
that he did and that no one could be truly converted
until he smelt the terrible pit. At another time, a
woman, overcome with emotion, kept up her shout-
ing throughout the night, keeping all the camp
awake. When one of the ministers at last remon-
strated with her, urging her to save herself for the
morrow and be quiet, she called out, ** Quiet?
Quiet? Ah, brother, if I were to keep quiet the
very stones would cry out ! ' '
Many amusing and many serious stories he told
me, and explained at length the program of the
camp meeting.
These meetings, he explained, usually begin on
308 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN .1840
Thursday, this being the day of pitching the tents,
gathering the supply of wood, arranging the lights,
settling the families ; by night, all being in order, a
special opening service is held, the first sermon
preached and the evening concluded with a brief
prayer meeting. The following Tuesday is the last
day, because, he explained, ''the true time to ad-
journ is while the spirit of the meeting is yet in its
strength. ' '
No liquor is allowed on the grounds, and a volun-
teer police of young men of good family and
friendly to the church but not religiously affected
by the worship, keep guard against the rowdies who
delight in disturbing such meetings by trying to pass
within the lines, untethering horses, pulling down
fences, making an uproar and mimicking sounds.
In the morning, the horn is sounded at sunrise —
or in this case Father Bennett sang — at which time
all are to rise; half an hour later it is blown for
family worship, which must be observed in every
tent; breakfast next, and at eight or nine the horn
announces prayer meeting in tents.
At ten, preaching is held, then prayers at the
stand and call for ''mourners," this meaning, it
seems, an invitation to such as desire the prayers of
those present from a conviction that they are
sinners, ^fter this, there is a recess for the mid-
day meal ; at two in the afternoon, preaching ; again
prayers at the stand and a call for mourners. A
stop at the setting of the sun for the evening meal,
through which the mourners commonly fast, then,
the fires are lighted, making the beautiful scene I
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 309
have described, the heavy foliage brought out by the
light, the rapt faces before the pulpit; at seven, the
preaching, the hymns, the call for mourners ; at nine,
the horn, the signal for family worship in tents, and
then, to bed.
Mr. Wylie explained to me that the preaching is
regarded as a subordinate matter; the sermons, to
be successful, should be brief and telling; that the
desirable thing is exhortations to repentance, a serv-
ice which will convict the sinner of his sins and
bring those seeking repentance into the fold.
I have not yet spoken of the singing, of the plain-
tive voices joining in songs of exhortation, of invi-
tation to the sinner, yet 'tis the most agreeable and
striking feature of the meeting :
"Come, ye sinners, poor and needy,
Weak and wounded, sick and sore ;
Jesus ready stands to save you,
Full of pity, love and power !
He is able,
He is willing ; doubt no more. ' '
And of the one with which those who have found
light, who have become converted are greeted, the
Hymn of Rejoicing in Communion with God.
"Come, thou Fount of every blessing,
Tune my heart to sing thy grace ;
Streams of mercy, never ceasing.
Call for songs of loudest praise.
Teach me some melodious sonnet,
Sung by flaming tongues above ;
Praise the Mount, I'm fixed upon it,
Mount of thy redeeming love ! ' '
310 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
I can not describe the effect on me of this hymn,
carried by the high treble voices, rising in the sum-
mer night. Ah, who can say that this homage in
His woodland temple is not pleasing to the Great
Jehovah, and that He does not incline His ear, hear,
and grant these prayers?
I must haste, without further detail, to describe
the breaking of the camp which I remained to see
and which I deemed most impressive.
Early in the morning, the tents were struck. The
congregation then assembled, the exhortation was
given, hymns were sung, prayers were made. Then
the fareAvell procession was formed, led by the
ministers, followed by the congregation, and all
marched around the outside row of tents. On ap-
proaching the stand, the ministers stopped, and as
the line passed by, they took the hand of each one
in solemn farewell. 'Twas a most moving sight,
one I shall ne'er forget, and which left me most
solemn long after the woods had closed behind me
and my face was again turned toward Terre Haute.
The journey to Terre Haute was accomplished
without incident worthy of note, across the county
of Clay and into that of Vigo. I was so fortunate,
however, as to meet on the stage coach, which, as
I have noted before, is, like the inn, the great meet-
ing ground, and whose enforced intimacy one may
say almost compels conversation, a Mr. Chapman,
who told me presently that he is the editor of the
Wabash Enquirer, a newspaper published at Terre
Haute, and who, on learning of my tour of the coun-
try, volunteered much information to me.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 311
The county of Vigo, I learned from liim, is named
for Col. Francis Vigo, a companion and friend of
Gen. George Rogers Clark, a most gallant gentle-
man, who, after the war, cast his fortunes in the
new country and settled at Vincennes. Touched by
the compliment of conferring his name upon the
county. Col. Vigo left a bequest - to Terre Haute for
the purchase of a bell for the Court House cupola,
which will be purchased if e'er the estate is settled.
The surface of this country is either level or
gently undulating, its fine timbered lands inter-
spersed with beautiful prairies, and the land is uni-
formly rich, giving large crops of wheat, corn and
oats. The town, Mr. Chapman informs me, is
beautifully situated on a high bank of the Wabash,
indicated by the name, Terre Haute (high land),
and the views, as I was soon to learn, of prairie,
river and bottom land, most enchanting, the banks
along the river being especially beautiful with grass,
flowers and large trees. This town has the distinc-
tion of having come into being the same year that
the state was admitted into the Union, 1816, so it is
now twenty-four years old, and has about 2,000 in-
habitants. As are many of these towns, it is built
about a public square on which the court house
="1116 money mentioned in the bequest was to come from Vigo's
claim against the United States government for money loimed the
government by which Gen. George Rogers Chirk was abh' to provide
rations for his soldiers in their mareli for the recapturing of Vin-
cennes in 1779. Tlie original amount loaned was $11,387.40. When
it was at last allowed, the principal and interest amounted to $i>0,-
000. The claim was paid in lS7(i, forty years after his deatli.
Vigo's bequest was used as the nucleus in tlie purdiase of u bell und
a clock for the new Court House erect. 'd in 1884— Editor.
312 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
stands, and when this was reserved, two quarter
blocks were also reserved, one for a Seminary and
one for a cliurcli, located at an equal distance from
the public square. The town, said Mr. Chapman,
was laid off and platted by the Terre Haute Com-
pany, and when he recited the names, I found to my
great pleasure that I knew one of the gentlemen and
was familiar with the names of the others. The
Bullitts of Kentucky were known to me by reputa-
tion, some members of the family having attended
the University while I was there, and the other
familiar name was that of Hyacinthe Lasselle.
Other members of the company were Jonathan
Lindley of Orange County, Indiana, and Abraham
Markle of Fort Harrison, whose sons I was soon to
meet.
Mr. Chapman waxed most enthusiastic over the
past and future of this city.
"Who," said he, *' would have expected such
rapid growth of a settlement in this situation? A
thousand miles from the sea coast, with no highway
of intercourse, no approach even, excepting the back
door of Vincennes, by way of Cincinnati, in a region
subject to incursions of the Indians, yet what hap-
pened! In 1815, a settled peace was concluded with
the Indians, permanent settlers began pouring into
the state ; later, the National Road was planned and
constructed, and now, in a location geographically
on the direct line of travel from East to the far un-
explored West, with the Wabash and Erie Canal on
the way toward completion, and with citizens of in-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 313
telligence and gentility, the town has gro\vn beyond
belief, and has a radiant future."
On perceiving my interest and my desire to note
facts in my commonplace book, he drew forth from
his pocket a copy of the Bloomington paper, The
Extra Equator ^ a number of which I had seen be-
fore and made note in this diary, and read me the
following selection :
''There are some towns, however, and irrespec-
tive of the aid they receive from this source (the
public works) have sprung into life as if by magic.
Among these and at the head, stands the town, al-
most city, of Terre Haute. Here, where a few years
since, all w-as in its native wilderness, now is the
show of life and business. Farms cover the rich
prairie as far as the eye can reach. By what town
is it surpassed, by what place is it equaled in beauty,
elegance, and health! Surrounded by the large and
rich farming communities of Parke, Clay and Sulli-
van, the products of which may easily be launched
on the bosom of the Wabash, which rolls at her base,
and thus quickly be deposited at any of the Southern
ports, her commercial advantages are by no means
of minor importance. Neither are her means of
communicating less than those of any other place
in our state. From every direction, stages are run-
ning—the proprietor of one of which resides in our
town— and in favor of whose enterprise and accom-
modations too much can not be said. To what, then,
can this growing superiority of Terre Haute be at-
'The Extra Equator, Bloomington, Ind., Nov. 8, 1839.— Editor.
314 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
tributed? Next to her local advantages may be
mentioned the enterprise and industry of her citi-
zens. By her salubrious soil and beautiful situation
she has invited the stranger of intelligence and
capital to reside here. "When here, they have evi-
dently taken a pleasure in expending their industry
and capital in benefiting and launching the town.
In a word, as the prints of a town are generally
considered as the representatives of its prosperity
and generosity, if judging from this infallible proof
in this case we read the interesting, racy and
spirited columns of the Courier and Enquirer, we
should say that Terre Haute is unequaled."
''By far too complimentary to the editors," ob-
served Mr. Chapman modestly, "but most true of
the town. ' '
I learned from this same source that I was now
approaching a place of genuine historical interest,
a place that has a part in the history of the north-
west territory, Fort Harrison, erected by Gen. Wil-
liam Henry Harrison in October, 1811. The old
log fort, now sadly fallen into decay, I have looked
upon with the greatest interest. The inclosure is
150 feet square, a stockade of heavy timbers, with
block houses at the corners and two-story bastions,
a typical Western fort, even in its decay calculated
to fire the imagination and to recall the day when
from beneath the high bluff came the war cry of the
savage in his canoe echoing the shout of his brother
lurking above in the forest fastness !
For some time after 1816, 'tis said, the fort was
used as a refuge, for although the Indian was said
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 315
to be friendly, he was still regarded with suspicion.
The fort, too, was the landing place for all who came
up the Wabash to the new settlement, and many of
the first prospectors boarded at the fort on their
arrival, among them, Chauncey Rose,'' Abraham
Markle and Curtis Gilbert.
I was quite ready, therefore, to be pleasantly im-
pressed with Terre Haute, at which we arrived near
nightfall. I had been advised by Dr. Layman to go
to "The Eagle and Lion," one of the oldest and
best taverns in the town, but Mr. Chapman advised
me of a new inn which I should by all means seek
out. This inn, he says, has but recently been built
by Mr. Rose, and is kept by a Mr. Barnum. This
Mr. Rose, he says, I must by all means make the ac-
quaintance of.
Mr. Rose is a gentleman of about 47, who came
out to Terre Haute from Connecticut in 1817. He
has, during his residence here, .engaged in mercan-
tile pursuits, purchased vast tracts of land, built
houses, and, said Mr. Chapman, if I am interested
in investments in the new country he is the man
above all others with whom I should liold consulta-
tion. He furthermore promised himself to intro-
duce me to Mr. Rose.
I found the inn, Avhile some distance removed
from the rest of the town, all and more tlian Mr.
■•Chauncey Rose, born in Connecticut, 1793; went to Terre Haute,
1817; died, 1877. "Tlie list of liis benefactions is a Ion-; one, includ-
ing the Rose Ladies' Aid Society, the Rose Polyteclinic Seliool. the
Rose Orphans' Home, the Rose Dispensary." Tlie inn referred to is
the famous Prairie House, whose name Mr. Parsons neglects to give.
It is described at length in Beate's "The Wabash" ( 18r)n.— Editor.
316 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Chapman had declared it to be. His statement that
it is the largest and best appointed inn in this state,
if not in the West, is true without doubt, and I found
my apartment both commodious and comfortable,
and my meals all and more than I could have de-
manded. It was in a most excellent humor, there-
fore, that, the next morning, having changed the
garments in which I had traveled for the more
modish attire of broadcloth, fresh ruffled shirt, and
my best beaver hat, I set forth to find Dr. Layman's
friend,^ and to view the city.
Through this friend, it was my good fortune to
make the acquaintance of the town's most prominent
physicians, of whom there is an unusual number.
Most capable and interesting men I found them. It
is a matter of interest and worthy of note, I think,
that among the pioneers, the professional men — the
preachers, the doctors, the lawyers, who endure
great hardships in the practice of their professions
— have been formed by this hard school of experi-
ence into men of mark. To change the figure, those
of baser metal do not survive the fire, and those who
do survive are all men of exceeding ability. How-
ever it be, I have found this uniformly the case in
each community I have visited.
A most striking and interesting figure is that of
Dr. Modesitt, pioneer physician, a typical Virginia
gentleman, unchanged by his residence in a pioneer
settlement. He can truly be called a pioneer, for
he built the first log house in Terre Haute, and
proved himself a man of affairs, setting up a mortar
° strangely, at no time does he give this friend's name. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 317
for corn, when there was no mill, and establishing a
ferry across the Wabash, at the same time laying
the foundation for his reputation as a most excellent
physician and surgeon. He is a graduate of Prince
William College, and resided in Cincinnati for a
season before coming to this place. He is a hand-
some gentleman, somewhat past 50, with snow-white
hair, an erect figure, an imposing presence and
most courtly manners, reminding me much of my
father.
Among the younger physicians, I found most con-
genial Dr. Reed, a young gentleman of 29. In his
office on the public square, he has collected a library
of considerable size and merit, and I found much
amusement and edification in poring over these
volumes while waiting for him to measure out
nostrums for the patients who had gathered in his
office. He showed me the latest tale of our South-
ern novelist, William Gilmore Simms, **Playo, a
Tale of the Goth," purchased, he says, at the Pliila-
delphia Book Store, kept by a Mr. Flint, a rather
good emporium. ''Simms," he remarked, ''will
add a new chaplet to his wreath of literary honors
with this volume, and do great credit to his fame.
It is an exciting story of the old time, as its name
imports, and richly rewards a perusal."
Here, too, I found a book of graceful letters,
"L'Abri, or the Tent Pitch 'd," by N. P. Willis,
Esq., a young writer coming more and more into
favor; a most excruciatingly funny book entitled
"John Smith's Letters with 'Picters' to Match,"
from the graphic pen of the veritable and original
318 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Jack Downing;^ ''The Private Journal of Aaron
Burr" in two volumes, which I longed for the time
to read, and a year 's numbers of a magazine printed
in Cincinnati called The Family Magazine, a veri-
table treasure trove of information which does
credit to the West.
Through Dr. Reed I met many of the physicians
— Dr. Ball, a native of New Jersey, a gentleman
highly esteemed in the community, and whose wife's
family, the Richardsons, were among the first set-
tlers of the town, she a most delightful female, I
will add ; Dr. Patrick, brusque and most intelligent ;
Dr. Richard Blake, a Southerner from Maryland;
Dr. Daniels, and next — a surprise sufficient yet to
make my heart beat faster as I write — Dr. Thomas
Parsons !
I remember that Dr. Reed had repeated my name
when first he heard it, as though 'twere not un-
familiar, but he said naught until he brought me
face to face with him. I knew that my father had
cousins residing in Maryland, who long ago had
gone out to Kentucky. We knew not their where-
abouts, but my father had urged me to make in-
quiries. This Dr. Parsons, it seems, was but a boy
when the family moved to Kentucky, and he came
to Indiana in 1819, being now a man about 36 years
old, and as yet utimarried. He was as rejoiced,
apparently, to see me, as I to see him, and he in-
sisted at once on my coming with him that I might
relate to him everything I could remember of his
*An extremely popular humorist of the time, Maj. Jack Downing,
now forgotten. — Editor,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 319
relatives in Virginia, promising, in return, to see
that I view everything of note, and make the ac-
quaintance of every notable before leaving his
adopted city. To-morrow I shall record my meet-
ing with Mr. Rose and my various social experiences
in his company.
CHAPTER XIX
On Board Steamer Indian, July 20, 1840.
I AM beyond doubt deeply indebted to Mr. Chap-
man for recommending that I take up my abode
at the Prairie House while in Terre Haute.
While 'tis true that it is literally ''out on the
prairies," the walk into the town is not a long one,
and the tavern itself is so palatial in every way and
the guests so agreeable that I can of a truth say
that nowhere on my journey have I been so pleas-
antly entertained.
I rose betimes, the morning after my meeting with
Dr. Parsons, my new-found cousin several times re-
moved, for a cool breeze was blowing over the
prairie, the birds were singing, and all nature was
calling me to come out. After an excellent repast
I wandered into the office room and taking up a
number of Mr. Chapman's paper was soon lost to
my surroundings in a perusal of events of import-
ance. News from the outside world has now the
spice of novelty to me, for it haps sometimes that
I am so situated that I do not see a news sheet for
several weeks together.
I therefore perused with much interest the account
of a United States exploring expedition. Letters
have been received from Lieut. Wilkes dated
320
^ A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 321
Sydney, New South Wales, which establish beyond
question the existence of a great continent in the
Antarctic seas, this discovery made Jan. 19, 1840,
and just now reaching our public prints. Full de-
tails are said to be given in the Sydney papers.
Queen Victoria held a drawing room last
month, and her costume is described at length, a
dress of white tulle over white satin, body and
sleeves richly ornamented with diamonds and
blonde; skirt elegantly trimmed with a rich blonde
flounce ; train of pink Irish poplin richly brocaded in
silver and lined with white satin, with a head-dress
of feathers and diamonds, necklaces and rings en
suite. The details of fashion have a special
piquancy, after our backwoods experiences.
An item of especial interest to the traveler be-
cause it reveals the dangers only too recently from
the Indians, was copied from a Peru, Indiana,
paper: *'Mr. John Parrett, Jr., residing in AVhitley
County about thirty-five or forty miles east of this
place, visiting the residence of some Indians, found
in their company a white male child supposed to be
6 years old, black eyes and fair hair, large for his
age, and has a long, broad, full face. The cliild is
thought to have been taken from its parents by the
Indians and carried to where it was found. Mr.
Parrett purchased the boy of his adopted parents
for $2.50, and took him to his house, where his
parents, if living and chance to see this notice, may
find him."
According to my custom, I noted tlie market price
of various commodities, flour, $3.75 a barrel ; meal,
322 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
*
12 and 15 cents a bushel ; wheat, 50 cents a bushel ;
potatoes 10 and 12 cents a bushel; butter, 5 and 6
cents a pound ; eggs, 3 and 6 cents a dozen ; whisky,
14 cents a gallon.
The greater part of the paper was devoted to
political items, a long letter from Mr. Robert Dale
Owen covering the entire front page. These polit-
ical items I read always with the greatest interest,
because each party seems to me to be very strong,
and espousers of either side each assure me that his
party can not fail to win. From a perusal of this
paper, for instance, one would be convinced that the
followers of Gen. Harrison stand no chance what-
ever in the coming elections. The editor writes that
he thinks it an evidence of insanity on the part of
Mr. Lane, Whig nominee for Congress in the
Seventh District, that he should run against Mr.
Hannegan. In another column the accusation is
made that Mr. George H. Profhtt, a Congressman, I
was to learn later from Vincennes, and one of the
most brilliant men in the state, *'is literally flooding
the state with electioneering documents. Not con-
tent with practicing on the unsuspecting of his own
district, he must stick his finger into every other.
We have a letter before us from Clay County, stat-
ing that at one small postoffice no less than three
pounds of 'Lives of Harrison' printed at the Madi-
sonian office, came in one mail, franked by G. H. P.
as public documents. These are the men who cry
so loud about abuse of official power! Democrats,
you must be stirring! Every scheme which in-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 323
genuity can invent will be put into operation to de-
feat you. Be watchful, then! Be prudent! Be
firm ! And above all, be united ! "
It is probable that my face betrayed my thoughts,
for a gentleman sitting near me, having evidently
perceived what I was reading, said, with a smile,
''Most convincing, no doubt, until you read the other
side ! Pray listen to this. ' ' Drawing a paper from
his pocket, a Whig sheet with the title The Spirit of
Seventy-Six, which I learned later is printed at the
capital, Indianapolis, he showed me column after
column of statements entirely as positive that the
"V^Tiigs would be victorious in the state elections.
He told me the story of how some leader had
written to the editor. Chapman, telling him that he
must put on a bold front and seem to be positive
that the Democrats would win. "Tell Chapman he
must crow," he said, and that this story has got out,
to the discomfiture of the Democrats and the enor-
mous delight of the Whigs, and that every Whig
paper has in black letters, "Crow, Chapman,
Crow." He read me from this paper a bit of
doggerel entitled "Song of Jim Crow."
"Let all de British Tory
Who feel so very low,
Keep stiff de upper lip
And give a loud Crow.
Brag about and bet about
And grin just so,
And every time you meet a Whig
Give a loud Crow,
324 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
"Massa Van he frightened,
Everybody know.
Still he scold at Amos
Cause he doesn't crow,
Brag about and bet about.
And grin just so;
And never lose de spirits,
But give a loud crow. ' ' '
''Now as for Mr. Proffitt," continued my com-
panion, '' 'tis all a base and scurrilous slander.
Mr. Proffitt is one of the finest gentlemen in the
state, and the greatest public speaker in the West.
Let me tell you something in confidence," he said,
lowering his voice. ''The Whig citizens of this
county have so high a regard for Mr. Proffitt and
esteem so greatly his services in this campaign, that
they intend in September to give a great barbecue
in his honor. We have the form of our invitation
already prepared, which I will show you, strictly in
confidence, sir, we do not want our enemies as yet
to get wind of it. It will be engraved in due season
and sent out to the respectable citizens of this and
other counties," he added.
I unfolded the memorandum he handed to me
with great interest. It ran as follows: "Sir:
The Wliig citizens of the County of Vigo will give
a barbecue to the Hon. George H. Proffitt on the
third of October next in a grove south of this town
for his vigilant, bold, and energetic course as a
Representative in Congress, and for his general zeal
*One could wish that Mr. Parsons had gone into more detail be-
cause this incident is said to be the origin of the adoption of the
rooster as the symbol of the Democratic party. — Editor,
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 325
in sustaining and advancing the Whig cause. You
are respectfully invited to dttend with the assur-
ance that it will afford the citizens of Vigo great
satisfaction to have the honor of your company on
the occasion. With high regard, Your obedient serv-
ants, Thomas H. Blake, James Farrington, T. A.
Madison, A. L. Chamberlain, John Dowling, Rufus
Minor, Henry Ross, Charles T. Noble, Lucius Scott,
Committee. ' '
''There, sir, the cream of the community, on that
committee, present company always excepted!" he
added, with a whimsical smile.
I was sufficiently impressed, for this seemed to me
a great tribute, and presently my new acquaintance
explained to me that he was the A. L. Chamberlain
of the committee and we fell into an interesting
conversation.
Learning of my intended profession, Mr. Cham-
berlain straightway presented me to a gentleman
who sat near us, a Mr. Griswold, who is a young
man come here recently and who for a season was
the instructor in a school, but who has now formed
a partnership for the practice of the law with an-
other young gentleman, a Mr. Usher,- who came
here from New York state driving all the way in an
open buggy.
"We met here in this tavern," said Mr. Griswold.
*'0n a frosty morning in the fall, as I left the break-
fast table, I was followed by a strange young guest,
and meeting face to face before the fireplace, we fell
" John P. Usher, who later became a member of Lincoln's Cabinet
and died in 1889.— Editor.
326 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
into conversation. From exchanging experiences,
we came to confidences, and it was not long until
we had agreed to enter into a partnership. This
was only last year, ' ' he explained, ' ' and our firm is
Usher and Griswold, and our office is on Cherry
Street, where I hope to have the honor of your pres-
ence for a call.
''This inn," continued Mr. Griswold, **I regard
as a paradise. 'Tis not alone its comforts, though
there is much to be said for them, 'tis the company
that gathers here and the free and easy intercourse
— ah, sir, it has something about it I can scarcely
define, but which you must even now perceive!"
I admitted that already I had felt something of
this charm in the hospitality and the pleasant com-
panionship afforded in its ample rooms, and we were
conversing in a most lively fashion when who should
arrive but Dr. Parsons, who naturally knew them
both well, and we accordingly sauntered forth to-
gether toward the town, talking gayly, as is the cus-
tom with young folk, together, in pleasant weather
and beset by no carping care.
All of the young gentlemen are members of the
fire company, it seems, and there was no little jest-
ing on the subject as we walked along, and they told
me something of the formation of the company. In
spite of their jests I noted that they felt consider-
able pride in the company and in the engine — "Old
Hoosier"— bought some years back. Their Council,
they said, had but recently appropriated $300 for
the construction of a cistern in each ward. Many
funny tales had they to tell of fires and fire fighting.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 327
Spirited young men, all tliree of them, in their sev-
eral ways.
Our next burst of laughter was at the sight of a
drove of hogs coming down the street. I have al-
ready described the appearance of a drove of hogs
on a country road on their way to Cincinnati.
"Behold, Mr. Parsons," said Mr. Griswold, in
tones of mock solemnity, ''behold a vision of Pork-
opolis. Mayhap you have not heard that in spite of
our culture, our schools, our professions, the real
source of our prosperity lies in our pork-packing
establishments, of which we have so many. Can it
be that none has as yet vouchsafed you a view of
those elegant edifices, those slaughter houses, our
pride, that cluster on the river's brink? Mayhap it
has been whispered to you, young sir, that our great
fear, at least the fear of those of us who o^\^l no
porkers, and no packing house, but who breathe the
refined air of the heights of culture, that our
adopted city may yet receive the name of Pork-
opolis! Perish the thought! Rather may our
boasted prosperity vanish!"
As he burlesqued tragedy in his tone, we stood at
attention on the sidewalk, watching the surging
mass of porkers go by, a sight well worth the see-
ing. First went a man on horseback, scattering
corn and uttering at intervals in a minor key the cry
*'Pig-oo-ee! Pig-oo-ee!" All along the sidewalk,
at street crossings and at alley ways helpers were
stationed to keep in line the pigs that were driven
forward from the rear by drovers with long sticks.
The rear was brought up by the very fat porkers
328 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
who had to have special attendants, and a wagon fol-
lowed for those who became too tired to walk.
'Twas an interesting sight, and we stood until they
had entirely passed.
*' Joke as you will, Grriswold," said Mr. Chamber-
lain, *' these are indeed amazingly the source of our
prosperity. And whence, pray tell me, would your
much needed fees come were it not for these de-
spised hogs? You must understand, Mr. Parsons,"
he said to me, "that corn grows on our fertile
prairies for the planting, and that it is the food
of all others for fattening these hogs. 'Tis then but
a matter of killing them and sending the meat to
New Orleans on flat boats. Let us show him," he
proposed to the others. ''Let us walk over to the
river. ' '
I confess that I had not the slightest idea of the
immensity of the river traffic, and that I hastened
to jot down the information that these three ac-
corded me, between jokes, as we stood on the river
bluff and looked down at the beautiful river at
whose wharf lay several steamers.
The use of the river for shipping is almost un-
believable, they informed me. In 1836, as many as
800 steamboats came here, steamboats from New
Orleans, St. Louis, Louisville, Cincinnati and Pitts-
burg, being daily visitors during the boating season.^
This year more than 200 boats are carrying on
a regular traffic between these Wabash towns and
ports on the Ohio and Mississippi. However, the
"The almost complete passing of the steamboat traffic on both
Wabash and Ohio makes the statement almost as unbelievable to ua
as it was to Mr. Parsons. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 329
flat boats are the most astonishing sight to me.
This Wabash River, it seems, is a thoroughfare for
all the country to the north by which the farmers
may ship their produce, and it is undoubtedly made
excellent use of. In less than a month and a half,
in the fall, they told me, 1,000 flat boats will pass
down the river, the majority of them loaded with
flour, pork, etc., in this proportion: one-tenth with
pork, 300 barrels to the boat; one-tenth, lard,
cattle, horses, oats, corn meal, etc., and the re-
mainder of the load consisting of corn on the ear.
However, as a proof that this is not always the load,
they told me of a flat boat setting out from Jackson
County at one time, going do^vn White River, carry-
ing a load of hickory nuts, walnuts and venison
hams. The value of the produce and stock on flat
boats is $1,000,000 annually.
I had already seen flat boats on the Ohio River,
but had received no particular information concern-
ing them. Mr. Chamberlain, who seems a most
practical gentleman, explained to me their value, as
besides having great carrying capacity, they are of
light draft, and hence adapted to small streams, and
in times of flood, the countryman living on a small
stream in the interior can construct his flat boat,
load it and float it to the Wabash and thence to the
Ohio and Mississippi. The matter of construction
is easy and not expensive. He called my attention
to the great tulip poplars which abound in this
locality. ''These," said he, ''are easily worked
with the ax, and afford slabs long and broad
enoudi for the sides. All that remains to bo done,
330 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
then, is simply to attach planks to these for the
bottom and ends, and the boat is completed."
He told me what I had already heard, that these
flat boats can not come up stream. The flat boat
man disposes of his produce in New Orleans, sells
his boat to be broken up for lumber, and returns on
the steamboat, though in the early days it was neces-
sary that he should walk home over the long road
known as the Tennessee Path, though it was fre-
quently called The ^loody Path because of the high-
waymen that infested it.
I will note here that through the kind offices of
Mr. Griswold and Mr. Usher, whom I found most
congenial companions, I met many of the members
of the bar of this city for whom there is but space
to record their names that I may be enabled al-
y^ajs to recall them. It seems to me, as I recount
them, that the number is unusual for the size of
the city and that their ability is also remarkable.
There is Judge Demas Deming, vastly rich, a man
of ability and of remarkable poise; the President
Judge, Elisha Huntington, a man of vast popu-
larity; Judge Jenckes, Judge Gookins, the firm is
Kinney, AVright and Gookins, and I found them all
men of most agreeable manners. Judge Kinney and
Judge Gookins being most interested in the good of
their fellow men. This last named gentleman re-
lated to me the interesting fact that with his mother
and brother, he was the first to come into the settle-
ment by the northern route, they having come out
from New York, and the journey occupying six
weeks and two days. Another attorney-at-law was
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 331
Mr, Barbour, a young gentleman who graduated
from Indiana College at Bloomington and in whom
I was particularly interested when he informed me
that he had read law in the office of Judge Isaac
Blackford in Indianapolis.
Through Judge Kinney, I made the acquaintance
of a most interesting man, the Rev. Mr. Jewett,*
pastor of the Congregational Church.
While I have found many sects in the Western
country, Methodist, Presbyterian, Baptist, Chris-
tian, Catholic and Universalist, this is my first en-
counter with the Congregational Church, whose
stronghold, I learn, is New England. Mr. Jewett, I
was informed, was making a tour of the West as a
missionary, and passing through Terre Haute, de-
termined to remain over the Sabbath. On hearing
that he was a minister, the people invited him to
preach at the court house, and so much impressed
were those who heard him by his beautiful character
and his interesting discourses that he was urged by
all classes to establish a church here and return East
for his family. Mr. Jewett, 'tis easily to be seen,
is a man of strong sympathy and broad catliolicity
of spirit and superior talent, and I marveled not
at all at his popularity when I had heard him preach
and engaged in conversation with him. 'Tis no
wonder that his church is so thriving and embraces
such admirable citizens among its members.
Among the merchants of the city whom I remem-
ber best, perhaps, is Mr. Chauncey Warren, at one
♦ It is a matter of interest that the successor of Dr. Jewett in this
church was Dr. Lyman Abbott who remained there from 18C0 to 1860.
—Editor.
332 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
time a partner of Mr. Rose. Him I met through
Dr. Modesitt, his father-in-law, and I found him a
man of great liveliness, an excellent raconteur and
in manner most kind and agreeable. A gentleman
of the Quaker faith, a man of refinement and most
gentle manners was a Mr. Ball who^ came to this
city some years ago and was engaged as the chief
engineer in the building of the Wabash and Erie
Canal. I met, too, the sons of Maj. Markle, one of
the founders of the city, and builder of its first mill,
a man, 'tis said, of unusual charm and ability, and
these sons I found most agreeable young gentlemen.
I must record the name, too, of Mr. Curtis Gilbert,
one of the early citizens, for^a long time postmaster
and conspicuous in all public movements, a most
estimable and agreeable gentleman, who told me,
among interesting narrations of the town's early
history, of the visit here, in 1831 of Mr. Clay. This
great man, he said, was entertained at the Eagle
and Lion, the first tavern in the village, and a most
noted resort, which I have seen with its quaint sign
of the American bird pecking out the eyes of the
British Lion. In the early days, it was frequented
by chance travelers and by the traveling la\\'yers,
and it was the central place of meeting for the
townspeople and moreover possesses an enormous
stable for the acconmiodation of the stage and
wagon horses.
Senator Clay, said Mr. Gilbert, was met several
miles from the village by a large number of citizens
and escorted into the town, his approach being an-
nounced by the roar of artillery. Addresses were
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 333
made by citizens of prominence and liis eloquent
reply is still quoted by his admirers of whom I find
many, a matter which will delight my father, and of
which I must not fail to inform him.
Space is lacking for more than a brief mention
of one item that has impressed me much, the multi-
plicity of businesses and occupations I have found in
this small city — more, I believe, than in any other I
have yet viewed. I have already mentioned the
pork-packing, a great industry in itself, the stores
of general merchandise, a most excellent market.
There are also a w^agon yard, a brick yard, shoe-
making is carried on, coopering, and hat-making
and there are several mills.
In the matter of schools, this, for a town of its
size, does not compare, it seems to me, with others
I have viewed, though I am told there are several
private schools, in one of which Mr. Oris wold, as ho
told me, taught when he first came to Terre Haute."
'Twas in this same assembling room of the tavern
in w^hich more and more from day to day as I lingered
I was to perceive the charm of which ^Ir. Griswold
had spoken so poetically, that I finally met Mr.
Chauncey Rose. Dr. Parsons had been call(>d away
but he told me that he had spoken to liim concern-
ing me, and one morning as I entered the ofTicc? room
after breakfast, I saw a serious-faced, though kindly
gentleman approaching me, who inquired if I were
•Mr. Parsons could not know of course that in October of this samo
year (1840) tlie famous school of St. Mary's in the Woods was to 1)p
founded, nor could he foresee the Rose I'olytecliiiic, tlie State Ndrmnl
and other schools which were soon to flourish in Torre Haute.—
Editor.
-6-S4: A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Mr. Parsons of Virginia and informed me that lie
was Chauncey Rose.
I found him pleasing at our first meeting, for
though a man of reticent nature, he is in reality
full of enthusiasm over his various enterprises, and
when he perceives interest in one with whom he con-
verses he talks rapidly and enough.
He told me at once of his coming here when there
were but two houses in the town, one occupied by
Dr. Modesitt whom I have already met, and that he
boarded at the Old Fort. He was only 25 then, — he
is now 47, he says, but he soon perceived the value
of the prairie land and soon made large purchases,
— in 1830, 640 acres in one vast tract. He was for a
time in the business of general merchandise with Mr.
Warren. He asked me many questions concerning my
legal studies, the purpose of my journey, and made
me some wise suggestions concerning investments.
**I am myself but now considering entering into
a company," said lie, ''which you may find of inter-
est, something altogether new in this part of the
world. In Greene County, not far distant and in
a southerly direction, a gentleman, Downing by
name, has discovered vast quantities of iron ore,
some under the surface, some scattered over the top
of the ground, due no doubt to some convulsion of
nature in past ages. He has started there a blast
furnace for the purpose of making pig iron, casting
stoves, etc., about a mile from Bloomfield, the seat
of justice, calling it the Richland Furnace." '
''And is this town," I inquired, "on a body of
water, or what are the means of transportation?"
A TOUR TtlROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 335
He seemed pleased with my question. ''True,"
said he, "it would seem strange that one would go
into such a business so far from the ordinary means
of transportation for such heavy freight. Much of
this iron is hauled with horse teams to Louisville, a
distance of 100 miles, and for this the teamsters re-
ceive five dollars a ton. Later, some gentlemen
went into the business with Mr. Do\vning and pur-
chased a steamboat which they called The Richland,
and which could occasionally come up White River
and take off the iron. These gentlemen have left
the company and I am contemplating entering it
and increasing the capital so that the business can be
carried on on a large scale. I have great expecta-
tions of success from this enterprise. ' ' °
Space is lacking and time is too pressing to do
more than record most briefly the remaining events
of my stay in this city. Through my friend, Dr.
Parsons, I was taken to the palatial mansion of the
Blakes, built by a merchant now deceased, a Mr.
Linton, situated some distance from the town.
Here, eight years ago, Mrs. Blake brouglit the first
piano of the town. 'Twas such a curiosity, she said,
that for a season passersby among the uneducated
would stop and ask her "to play on tlie critter."
Another fine mansion is that of Dr. Ball, whom I
have already mentioned, his wife being the daughter
of Joseph Richardson, one of the early settlers at
«The original members of this enterprise besides :Mr. Downing were
M. H. Shryer, William Evelcigh, William Mason, E. J. Pfck and A. L.
Voorhees. It is a matter of regret that Mr. Parsons leaves tlie anb-
ject with such abruptness and does not tell us more of this enterprise,
the existence of whicli must be a matter of surprise to many resi-
dents of Indiana. — Editor.
336 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Fort Harrison, and a most excellent female. Dr.
Parsons being young and unmarried, 'twas but nat-
ural that I should meet in his company several of
the young females, and while I have not time to
record these facts, I must jot down the incident of
our sunset walk to the old Indian orchard.^
This spot is so called, I was informed, from an
old Indian legend, and 'tis indeed a place of sur-
passing beauty. Three couples walked out together,
Mr. Usher, Dr. Parsons and myself, in the company
of the young females. Miss Eliza was my partner,
a pink-cheeked damsel, whose face, though pretty,
is lacking in intellectuality. She is a chatterer,
however, and she told me the story of the Indian
lovers most engagingly and I fancy that she is a sad
coquette. Ah well, were it not for the thought of
Julia, I might have been a readier victim, for the
spot is one to be dedicated to love on a summer eve !
We stood among the gnarled apple trees — said to
have been planted by the Indian maiden, on the high
bluff looking out over forest, prairie, bluff and river.
The river makes a sweeping serpentine curve here,
and can be seen, 'tis said, for a distance of two miles.
The scene at sunset is one of surpassing loveliness,
the place a rural paradise.
'Twas from such scenes as this and such congenial
companionship as I have described that I was at
length forced to tear myself away and embark on
the steamer Indian for my next stopping place,
Vincennes.
' Used as a burying ground for many years until the opening of
the City Cemetery about 1839.— Editor.
CHAPTER XX
ViNCENNEs, July 24, 1840.
IN spite of the announcement of the Indian's
owners that **The public can rely on the boat
making her trips on time, being the fastest boat
ever in this trade, ' ' I fear I should have thought the
journey a slow one had it not been for the congenial
companionship of a gentleman who introduced him-
self to me as Capt. Willis Fellows, recently ap-
pointed inspector of steamboats for the Port of
Vincennes. Him I found exceedingly well informed,
and while sitting on deck gazing upon the ever
beautiful and ever changing scene, I was continually
engaged in asking questions and jotting do^\'n the
information thus accorded me.
Ample as it w^as, it did not in the least temper my
amazement over the beauty, the antiquity, the inter-
est of this town. Its situation is of great loveliness,
being on what the early writers term a ''savannali"
of irregular size, some miles in extent, with the
dense woods behind it and the placid river at its
feet. Along its streets, small century old houses
alternate with more recently erected magnificent
mansions. Its inhabitants, I have learned, are ex-
traordinarily interesting, high-bred people among
whom I have spent some of the most enjoyable days
of all my enjoyable journey.
337
338 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
I must confess to myself, although I endeavor to
keep the knowledge from others, that I am of a most
romantic temperament, and ne'er have I found a
spot, it seems to me, so full of charm as is this town
of Vincennes, a charm that I find it impossible to de-
scribe. Some of my newfound acquaintances have
told me much of the beauty of Indian summer in this
state, of the colors of the trees and of the opalescent
haze that hangs o'er woods and prairie and me-
thinks the charm is not unlike this haze. It is a
charm that comes from the age of the place and its
romantic history. The first French inhabitants
were, 'tis said, so good natured, warm hearted, and
gentle mannered that 'twas impossible not to love
them, and from what I can learn, their successors,
the English settlers, were people of refinement and
culture. From the beginning, there has always been
hospitality here; the place has been sought by
visitors from the old world, and these palatial home-
steads have been the scene of lavish entertainment.
When I close my eyes I can see, against the back-
ground of forest, the picturesque figures, the
painted Indian, the Jesuit father, the French
coureur-du-bois, the English soldier, the titled
visitors, the backwoodsman with his rifle — ah, small
wonder mj pen fails me when I attempt to write of
Vincennes! I shall merely set down, therefore,
some few of the incidents which I find most worthy
of recording.
First of all I sought out, on Captain Fellows' rec-
ommendation, the American Tavern kept by Mr.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 339
John C. Clark, a most affable gentleman. This inn
is in a most desirable situation, close by the Old
Fort, and commanding the Main Street ferry land-
ing on the river. It is situated on a corner, with
elevated porches on two sides from which one can
view the happenings in the streets, notably the mili-
tia musters. It is a meeting place for all promi-
nent citizens to transact business of a public char-
acter, and is moreover the headquarters for mer-
chants and traders from all parts of the country.
On the occasion of my memorable call on Judge
Blackford in Indianapolis in his room in the Gov-
ernor's mansion, he told me that he still considers
Vincennes his home, coming here every year, and
gave me the names of several of its respectable citi-
zens whose acquaintance I should make, and with
them, a letter to Mr. Samuel Judah of the firm of
Judah and Gibson. I accordingly set out to find Mr.
Judah, who received me most warmly and whom I
found a most extraordinarily interesting gentleman
of a little past forty, perhaps, with remarkably fine,
piercing black eyes. He is a native of New York,
and came out to Vincennes some years ago. He is,
I soon perceived, a profound scholar, and a gentle-
man most interested in young men of ambition. He
is most proficient in the Greek and Latin languages
and possesses an interesting library whose contents
I took pleasure in noting. Having learned the pur-
pose of my visit, he was even more gracious and
affable, if such were possible, and invited me to re-
main to a meeting to be held that same afternoon at
340 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
four o'clock, in liis office, of the Historical and Anti-
quarian Society/
This society, of which Judge Blackford was one
of the original members, was organized in the year
1808 to investigate authentic evidence concerning
the early history of the place, over which there is
some dispute, I learn, and it has already accumu-
lated a considerable library and museum.
At their last meeting the officers for. the coming
year were elected: Mr. Nathaniel Ewing, Presi-
dent; Mr. S. Hill, Vice-President; Mr. G. R. Gibson,
Treasurer; Mr. A. T. Ellis, Secretary, all of whom
I met on this occasion and who showed themselves
most cordial to me.
At this meeting several objects of interest were
presented to the society which I, with their permis-
sion, noted down — By the Honorable John Law, a
discourse before the New York Historical Society
by William B. Reed; by the Kentucky Historical
Society, a large collection of books and pamphlets;
by the Honorable Albert S. White, whom I had met
at Lafayette, a memoir, historical and political of
the northwest coast of North America, by Rob-
ert Greenhow, translator and librarian to the De-
partment of State ; by the Honorable John W. Da-
vis, documents No. 206, 26 Con. I Sess. House Rep-
^"It is a matter of sincere regret that the Vincennes Historical
and Antiquarian Society was permitted to perish for want of appre-
ciation and support. The valuable collection of important physical
specimens contained in its museum and its documents and records
were suffered to be carried oflT and scattered, and are not now, for the
greater part, in existence, or at least are not accessible to the pub-
lic."— (Cauthorn.) The society has in recent years been revived. —
Editor.
THEATRE.
The "Vmcennfs Literary Drnmntir Sodety' will give llicir first pcrform-
ance ou Satarday the 2nd of Ftlirunrj, 1839. in tlic romu fornieih occupied
as the Poet Office, on Waltr Slrecli where »vill be prcbcntid llie'ller. B. C.
Matrum'fl Traged/ of
BERTRAM.
OB
THE CASTLE OF ST ALDOBRAND
COMIC SOJVO.
e uitA tk UvifVii^andimirh aima^jvruti
The Apprentice.
The members of this Socirt^ deem it a d«t/ dcTOlvinK apnn Iheniselrcs to
make this public decU'ration of their inlcnlions, h:' publishing, to Uio clli-
zens of Vincennes, the (Irst resolution of thair "By-Laici.'"
"Jlesolved, That the surplus of this Societjr shall be presented to the ( oun-
eil of the Borough of Vincennes, to be b/ Ucm, opplied in the purchase of a
'Tnie"o'om is wellfltted up, and proper oBlceri will be in attendance to en-
force ord«r. JVo tmokhig alhiced. Front s-ats reserred for the ladles.—
Doore open at 6. Curtain will posilivel;' riie JS minutes before 7.
Tickets of ndni ssion, 60 cenU. Childrei oter 10 jears of age will 6e
charged fnll price No money received at Ifae door. „ TiekeU to be had at
Clark's Hotel, and at the stores of Messrs. Hurlch ^i" n.nn.h, 0. Crulk-
thank ^ Co. and tke Coffee-nouses. Good muBlc will attend the performance.
A VINCENNEJ PLAY BILL OF I839
From the original in the Indiana State Library
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 341
resentatives, entitled ''National Defense and Na-
tional Boundaries;" by tlie Honorable George W.
Bathbone, two skeins of sewing silk, one black and
one white, gro\^^l and manufactured in Vincennes
in 1839 ; by H. D. Wheeler, a specimen of ore from
Iron Mountain, Missouri; by George Frederick, a
calculus from a hog's bladder; by D. Stahl, a geo-
logical report of the state of Michigan; by H. Bert-
rand, Esq., a manuscript volume of 240 pages, in
French, dated 1790, a most beautiful specimen of
chirography.
Mr. Ewing, the President, I found most agreeable.
In conversation, after the meeting, having inquired
concerning my journey, he informed me that he had
first come to this place as a boy from Pennsylvania
on a trading trip in a pirognie laden with apples
and salt, later ha\dng come to settle permanently.
He has been Register of the Land Office, and Presi-
dent of the first bank here, and has retired, being
now near to 70, to his country place, Mont Clair,
east of the city, to which estate he has invited me,
showing himself especially agreeable after I men-
tioned meeting his daughter, Mrs. Farrington of
Terre Haute. He also presented me to his son-iu-
law. Judge Law,- to whom I at once gave Judge
Blackford's letter of introduction.
Judge Law is a man eminently handsome and ele-
gant in appearance, portly, with aquiline nose and
*John Law, born in Connecticut, 1796. died at Evansville, Ind.,
1873. Graduated at Yale. Came to Corydon. 1817: later to Vin-
cennes. 1825, prosecuting attorney; 18:^0. legislative judge. Klect.d
to Congress. '^A fluent and graceful writer, wlio gained a national
reputation for his contributions to the Colonial History of Indiana."
! v-Editor.
342 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
penetrating eyes. He is most urbane and at once
invited me to his home, to which I went on that same
evening, my stay here being limited. I noted with
pleasure the beautiful home, the books and papers
— like Judge Blackford he is an inveterate reader.
The spirit of hospitality was evident, and the affec-
tion in which he holds his family. Later, we sat
in the garden under the beautiful trees, and among
the flowers and fruits in whose cultivation he de-
lights, and he quoted Marvell.
"What wondrous life is this I lead!
Eipe apples drop about my head;
The luscious chisters of the vine
Upon my mouth do crush their wine;
The nectarine and curious peach
Into my hands themselves do reach;
Stumbling on melons as I pass,
Ensnared with flowers, I fall on grass.
''Here at the fountain's sliding foot.
Or at some fruit tree's mossy root,
Casting the body 's vest aside
My soul into the boughs does glide ;
There, like a bird, it sits and sings,
Then whets and claps its silver wings,
And, till prepared for longer flight.
Waves in its plumes the various light."
His love for these surroundings was, I could per-
ceive, no idle fancy.
He is 44 years of age, he informed me ; from Con-
necticut, from which state his grandfather was a
member of the Continental Congress, and he him-
self graduated from Yale at the age of 18. The
pride of birth is there, it speaks in the stateliness
A TOUB THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 343
of his bearing, but much else, a courtliness of man-
ner, a brilliancy of intellect, a wit and humor that
make his conversation most delectable, in short, I
never have looked upon a man who, I deem, unites
in himself more of the gifts men pray the gods for.
On learning of my interest in the history of the
Western country and also my surprise over finding
such a body as the Antiquarian Society here, he
told me much concerning the object of the society
and its work and confessed that only last year he
had delivered an address ^ before the society on
the date of the first settlement of Vincennes.
When I ventured to express to him my feeling
over finding a city of such age and of such historical
interest in what we in the East are wont, I fear, to
consider a wilderness, he burst forth:
''Think, sir, you are in a town which is one of
the oldest on the continent, one for the possession
of which the greatest nations of the earth have con-
tended— France, England, the United States. Think,
sir, of this river, the Ouabache, they called it, a
river known and noted on the maps of the West
long before the Ohio was known in the geography
of the Mississippi Valley, — a river which for nearly
a century bore upon its waters the bateaux of the
three great powers above mentioned, bringing their
armed warriors to occupy and if possible, to pre-
serve it. One which had seen mthin its garrison
the Mousquetaire of Louis XV, the grenadier of
George III, the rifleman of Clark, and the regular
^This address was delivered on Feb. 22, 1839, and printed in 1858
under the title "Tlie Colonial History of Vincennes under French,
British and American Government." — Editor.
344 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
troops of Harmar, St. Clair and Harrison,— one
above which has floated the Fleur-de-Lys, the Cross
of St. George, and our own glorious Stars and
Stripes!"
He paused for a moment, and then continued:
**I came here at twenty-one, — in 1817 — it has
changed much since then; it had changed greatly
since 1800, I was told. Fancy, sir, what those first
English speaking settlers must have seen when they
came here, — this little foreign village, the low-ceil-
inged, straw-thatched cottages, vine-wreathed, set in
blossoming fruit trees, — the old church, which you
must see without fail, the Old Fort,— no French-
man's tongue calls it aught else, 'twas only the Eng-
lish who said Fort Sackville, — the Indians, the
priests, ah, 'twas a picture to stimulate a man's im-
agination to make a poet of him — "
I ventured to say that the spell still hangs over
it for me, and 'twas perhaps this appreciation of a
place he loved so well that caused his continuous
and untiring kindness to me throughout my visit.
'Twas upon this occasion that Judge Law told me
of those men who have given what I may call his-
toric interest to the town — the Sieur de Vincenne,
from whom it takes its name : Father Gibault, a most
celebrated priest who, when he heard of the Amer-
ican Revolution, called a public meeting of the
French of Vincennes, explained to them the nature
of the struggle and administered to them the oath
of allegiance to the American cause; Gen. George
Rogers Clark, over whose exploits I have marveled
much; Col. Francis Vigo of whom I had already
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 345
heard at Terre Haute, and above all, of Gen. Wil-
liam Henry Harrison, who came here as first Ter-
ritorial Governor of Indiana to find a French vil-
lage, few in the place speaking or understanding
aught but the French language, and who devoted
himself while here to the promotion of learning and
education.
Besides these whom we may call public charac-
ters and historic, are men of prominence now living
here or but lately passed away, who are a part of
the history of the place. Among these is Bishop
Brute, the first Roman Catholic bishop of the Dio-
cese of Vincennes, born and educated in France,
who came to this city in 1834, at which time the
church of St. Francis Xavier was partly erected.
Bishop Bmte left, so Judge Law tells me, a mar-
velous library of 6,000 or 7,000 volumes, priceless
manuscripts, many of them, some dating back to
1476. Another gentleman is Elihu Stout, who
founded the first newspaper in the state, the Vin-
cemies Sun, the first number of which was issued in
1804. Mr. Stout was one of the founders of the
Historical Society, where I met him and enjoyed his
conversation, although, as he was an ardent Dem-
ocrat, I found his opinions of the election altogether
at variance with the opinions of the many Whigs I
have encountered.
I found the opinions of another gentleman, Mr.
Caddington, who edits the Yinccnncs Gazette, much
more to my liking, and it was tliis gentleman who,
when I questioned him concerning Gen. Harrison's
following in this place and the strength of the Wliig
346 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
party, invited me to accompany Mm to a great mass
meeting and barbecue to be given in the walnut
grove before the Harrison mansion, of wMch last
named I shall write at length later on.
The scene was one of indescribable interest. Two
speakers had been provided, so Mr. Caddington in-
formed me, but the crowd was so enormous, so far
exceeding all expectations, that it was necessary to
provide two others that all the crowd might be ac-
commodated at once. The two speakers first pro-
vided were the Mr. George Proffitt,^ concerning
whom I had heard so much in Terre Haute, and a
Mr. George G. Dunn of Bedford; the two others
hastily invited, were Mr. Richard W. Thompson,
who chanced to be in the city at this time, and Mr.
John Ewing of Vincennes, whom I had already met.
With my new friend, Mr. Caddington, as cicerone,
I penetrated the vast crowd, stood on the trench in
which the great bullocks were roasting, when the
time came, ate my share with, I must confess, a most
unsuspectedly voracious appetite, washed it down
with dippersful of campaign cider, heard with great
delight campaign songs shouted forth by lusty
voices, and listened with the greatest curiosity and
interest to each of the speakers.
Of Mr. Proffitt I had heard so much, including the
* George H. Proffitt, educated in England and France ; belonged to
one of the leading families in Louisiana, where his grandfather held
the office of surveyor general under the French government. Came to
i'ike County in 1826, a very young man and engaged in merchandise
business. Legislature, 1828, and elected to same position five times
in succession; two terms in Congress; minister to Brazil under
Tyler; died in Louisville, 1847. Man of extraordinary popularity;
had high standing in the East. — Editor.
, A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IX 1840 347
encomiums of my Terre Haute friend who had told
me of the barbecue planned in his honor next month,
that I had the greatest curiosity to see him and
was no ways disappointed in my expectations. Mr.
Proffitt is a handsome young man, below the medium
size, slim and spare, with a good mouth, a high
forehead, dark eyes and light brown hair. He had
spoken but a few moments when I perceived the se-
cret of his power and marveled not when Mr. (\ul-
dington informed me that he has already a high
reputation for oratory in the East and South. Hi.s
voice is remarkably loud and clear, having that qual-
ity knowm as ''silvern," so here he has an advan-
tage over many of his adversaries; his elocution is
of the most fluent, his imagination most fertile, he is
ever quick and ready. 'Twas easy to see how he
swayed the multitude — I have never heard a more
persuasive speaker. Mr. Caddington related to me
an incident revealing this power. It seems that for
some reason, some years ago, about the time of an
election, he had become unpopular witli tlie people
of his town, w^hether through the defamation of his
rivals or some fancied wrongs, is unknown. Hav-
ing in some w^ay become aware of this displeasure,
Mr. Profiitt notified the voters by placards at the
polling place, that he wished to address them once
more before they voted, and such was his ])ower,
popular or unpopular, that a large crowd gatiiered
to hear him. He spoke for an hour, says Mr. Cad-
dington, and so strong was his logic, so overpow-
ering his eloquence, that he secured every vote in
the town, much to the chagrin of his scheming op-
348 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 ,
ponents. ' * He is a true Southerner, ' ' concluded Mr.
Caddington, apparently forgetful of my origin, of
which I did not remind him, fearing his embarrass-
ment, ''and cares far more for hunting, fishing and
horse racing than for his business. I have heard
that he never scruples to close his store any day
in the week to pursue these pleasures.'*
A most striking man is Mr. Richard W. Thomp-
son, whom I had also heard spoken of at Terre
Haute, very erect, with fine black hair and eyes.
His face is not regularly handsome — ^his features
are too prominent for that, but in person he is a
man of mark, and his voice, while not equaling that
of Mr. Proffitt in sweetness, is of great volume; his
manner is strong, clear, emphatic, even vehement.
"He has few, if any superiors as a speaker in the
West,'* said Mr. Caddington, and I was fain to
agree with him.
Then my friend led me to the part of the grove
in which Mr. Dunn ^ was speaking.
He informed me that I was now to hear not only
a great orator, but one of the finest lawyers of the
state. "When he takes a case," said my friend,
"he inspires oth-ers with such confidence in his
strength that the case is considered as decided in
his favor beforehand. He is argumentative, im-
pressive, his w^ill is invincible, and he is a master
of ridicule and invective. The Democrats fear his
sarcasm more than that of any other of our speak-
" George G. Dunn of Bedford, born in Kentucky in 1812; settled
in Monroe County, Indiana, and then located in Bedford in 1833.
Mr. Caddington 's statement is borne out by his biographers. —
Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 349
ers. You will see for yourself, sir, that as some one
has said of him, he embodies wit, droUeiy, invec-
tive, sarcasm, eloquence, in one symmetrical whole."
Mr. Dunn was indeed one of the most impressive
of the speakers. In person, he is most pleasing,
being tall and commanding, with fair complexion,
light hair, and blue eyes. I perceived at once that
Mr. Caddington spoke the truth and that he indeed
possesses all the qualities that gentleman attributes
to him. Indeed, I should much prefer having him
my. advocate than my opponent. His voice is rich
and full, and he possesses great personal magnet-
ism, no doubt in part the secret of his power, for
no one could listen to his mellow voice without at
once being persuaded of the justice of liis cause.
I was moved beyond belief at his marvelous decla-
mation of the lines, ''Now is the winter of our dis-
content made glorious summer by the sun of York."
The fourth speaker was a Mr. John Ewing, of
whom Mr. Caddington spoke with enthusiasm. He
is an Irishman, it seems, a gentleman of wealtli, who
has become interested in politics, and having been
suddenly discovered to be a fluent and versatile
speaker, has been in constant demand this campaign.
He speaks a rich brogue, and this with his Irish
wit, his agreeable manner, his keen sarcasm, his
hail-fellow-well-met attitude toward all tlie people
make him a most popular speaker. At the inoment
we approached the stump from whicli he spoke ho
was reading a list of reasons from some Democratic
print of why the writer was going to vote the Dem-
ocratic ticket. Taking up each one, as "I intend to
350 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
vote for Martin Van Buren because," etc., lie
quickly explained why the statement was untrue,
and this with so much wit that the audience was
continually in a roar.
I have made some inquiries concerning the state
of education in this city and have been informed
that in 1808 a university was established, from
which, by reason of some injustice, 'tis claimed, of
legislation, the state's support was withdrawn, but
which has recently been reestablished, and for
which is hoped a flourishing future. There is a
most interesting Catholic institution, St. Gabriel's
College, which offers a large and interesting curricu-
lum, providing greater instruction in languages than
any other institution in the state. Instruction is
given, it is announced, in both ancient and modern
languages, to-wit : Hebrew, Latin and Greek, Italian,
Portuguese and Spanish, English, French and Ger-
man, the last three of which are taught by pro-
fessors to whom they are vernacular.
Besides all these branches, mathematics, philoso-
phy and the sciences, instruction is offered in draw-
ing, painting and vocal and instrumental music upon
the piano, violin, flute, guitar and clarinet.* The in-
stitution, 'tis said, is provided with a splendid phil-
osophical apparatus, an extensive library and ele-
gant specimens for the study of anatomy. There is
also in preparation a botanical garden designed to
contain the greatest possible variety of plants. The
scholastic year consists of two sessions of twenty-
two weeks each, and the terms, including boarding,
washing, mending, bed and bedding, medical attend-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 1^51
ance, paper, quills, ink and books per session, is $70.
Music and drawing are extra as are also modern
languages.
There is in the city also a most excoHont scliool
for females, St. Mary's Academy, whicli is dosigiird
"to promote the cause and enhance tlie value of
learning and virtue, and exert itself in accordance
with the character, necessities and increasing pros-
perity of the country."
The system of education in tliis Academy embraces
the English and French languages, Ortlio^raphy,
Reading, AVriting, Grammar, Practical and Kational
Arithmetic, Geography and the Delineation of Mai)s,
American and Modern History, Rhetoric and B»'lk^s
Lettres, Natural Philosophy and Chemistry, music
on piano, vocal music, drawing and painting in water
colors, plain sewing, tapestry, embroidering, bead
and lace work, in short all branches usually tauglit
in female academies. Board and tuition, bed and
bedding, washing, are $100 a year, and tlie use of
pens, ink, reading books and patterns for work are
621/^ cents for the season. Music and the use of the
piano are $7 per quarter. I note these to compare
with the cost in other institutions and also because
my father and mother will be much interested in
these details.
As to religion, because of the age of this settl^o-
ment, there are several flourisliing clmrclies, St.
Francis Xavier, the oldest, founded in 1702, and also
the congregations of Methodist, Presbyterian and
Christian. A most interesting story was told me
that the first Protestant service in the to\Mi was liold
352 A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840
by a circuit rider who came through the place, whose
sole congregation was President Harrison, who, as
there was no table, held the candle while the minister
read the Scripture lesson.
Only last year the Episcopal Church was founded
here. The meetings, I am told, are held in the town
hall, and the females of the congregation have re-
cently raised the sum of $117.21 for the fitting up of
the hall for the services. The rector, the Rev. Mr.
Killikelly,® I have found a most intelligent and
agreeable gentleman.
What I see most clearly, in my mind's eye, when
I think of Vincennes is first, its old French houses,
quaint and low, which Judge Law had described so
eloquently, in one of which I took tea one never-to-
be-forgotten afternoon with a Mrs. Wolverton, most
charming young matron, and next its many mag-
nificent mansions, first among them that of Gen.
Harrison, whose plantation, ''Grouseland," is quite
near the home of Judge Law, who took me to call
upon Mr. Drake, its present tenant, that I might
view the mansion.'^
I was charmed by the approach to the house. The
plantation is a large one, the grove of trees magnifi-
cent. I have not yet, I fear, dwelt sufficiently on the
trees of this Wabash country, the giant tulip pop-
' 'The next year, 1841, Mr. Killikelly went East and to Europe to
raise funds for this church, and it is said that among the subscribers
were Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV, the Duke of Northumber-
land, the Archbishops of Canterbury and of London, and others whose
names are equally illustrious. — Editor.
' Tliis historic house was saved from destruction by the Francis
Vigo Chapter, D. A. R., which purchased it in December, 1916, —
Editor.
ST. FRANCE XAVIER'J- CATHEDRAL, VINCENNE/
Begun in 1826
Pen drawing by WillarJ Osier
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 .353
lars, some 190 feet high; the sycamores, the walnut,
white oak, sweet buckeye, sweet gum, ehns, catalpas,
all enormously tall and of great circumference. Be-
sides this, there is the vineyard and a garden of ex-
quisite loveliness, with plants, shrubs and vines of
great variety, rivaling the garden of Judge Law.
The house has a magnificent situation ovcrhmking
the river, and on this side it is oval, the other throe
walls square. The mansion itself is constructed of
brick, the first brick house in the county, if not in the
territory, and erected at a cost of $20,000.
The main stairway is most beautiful, rising from
a commodious hallway, from the left of whicli opens
a stately room, 30x22 feet, I was told, tlie ceiling
13 feet high, the west wall of which, facing the river,
is oval. ''This room," said Mr. Drake, *'has been
the scene of many a gay and splendid gathering, for
here Gen. Harrison entertained many dignitaries
from the Old World, as well as from the East, in
royal style. After his departure his son Cleves
Harrison and his gay young wife dwelt here for a
season and made the house an assembly place for
youth, beauty, wealth, rank and title." There are
many chambers with beautiful woodwork, handsome
mantelpieces, entrancing views from the windows,
and two verandas, one attached to the house on the
east side, the other on the front. There are heavy
walnut shutters to all the windows, and Mr. Drake
called my attention to a bullet hole in one, the re-
sult of a ball fired from a gun one night by an Indian
with the intention of assassinating the Governor,
while he was walking the floor with his little son in
354 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
liis arms. He pointed out to me, also, a crack in
the wall caused by the great earthquake of 1811.
Of great interest to me, also, was the one-time
mansion of Col. Vigo, a most elegant residence, with
a veranda, the whole painted white, with blinds of
purest green. Its floors, 'tis said — for I did not
view the interior — are inlaid with diamond-shaped
blocks of black walnut and white oak, highly
polished. The story is told that Col. Vigo offered
the builder twenty guineas reward if he would
hasten its construction that he might offer the house
to Governor Harrison on his first coming to Vin-'
cennes. On its walls, at that time, says Judge Law,
hung a handsome oil painting of Thomas Jefferson.
I can but name the other palatial dwellings, the
Bonner mansion — Mr. Bonner is owner of the great
cotton factory — a three-story house with the great
columned portico our Virginia builders delight in,
in a magnificent situation; Bellevue, the country
residence erected years ago by Judge Vanderburg,
now dead, and the home of John Wise, a most re-
spectable citizen and merchant, once the residence of
Judge Benjamin Parke, an early notable of the
state, and which stands overlooking the river near
the Harrison mansion.
To Nathaniel Ewing's beautiful country home,
Mont Clair, I went one evening together with a com-
pany of young people, and never have I seen a more
beautiful and restful spot. We supped together on
the green sward in front of the house, while the sun
gave us a magnificent pageant at his setting, going
to rest right regally, with a mass of cloud drapery
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 355
all crimson and gold floating about his couch, an.l
the full moon rose from the horizon like a giant
shield of copper, and finally, growing smaller and
more silvery, rode the heavens above us. And of
what did we talk, of what sing?
I have always loved the guitar. Some decry it
as an unimportant instrument, not realizing Uw rich
and mellow harp tones obtained by an accomplished
performer. 'Tis indeed an orchestra in liltlo, and
the great Paganini himself said of it, '*I esteem it as
a conductor of thoughts; I love it for its hannony;
it is my constant companion in all my travels."
'Tis not in the hands of a Paganini, however, tliat
I wish to see this instrument, but rather to see it
clasped by some fair damsel, its blue ribbon encir-
cling her neck, its strings touched by lier tapering
ivory fingers. And **on such a night as this" 'twas
just a lovely young female, Aimee her name, from
which I guessed a French ancestress, wlio toucliod
the guitar and sang. She was a blonde of tlie most
delicate description, the seeming embodiment of all
most exquisitely ethereal and spiritual, endowed
with the voice of an angel, and this is the sad melody
she sang:
*'0 there are tones of voices prone,
That breathed from lips now cold and mute
The echoes of a once-loved soup,
The murmurs of a broken lute ;
That waken tears — warm, prushinp tears —
The blighted hopes of bri']jhtcr hours,
And win us back to parted years
To weep aloud our withered flowers.
356 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
' ' And gentle locks that once were bright,
And smiles that lips we loved adorned,
Now fall with cold and faded light
Around the heart they once have warmed;
And mem 'ry round her ruin rears
Her ivy mantled, broken urn,
And feeds with sighs and softer tears
The fires which round her altar burn. ' '
For a season we all sat silent, more moved than
we wished to reveal by the haunting sadness of the
melody, the moon, the summer night. And to what
did the song carry me back! Again I was sitting on
the deck of the steamboat, gliding down the Beauti-
ful River, again the moon was smiling down upon
the lovely face, the deep blue eyes of Miss Caroline
Hunter. Had I so soon forgotten her? Could I
ever forget her? Did I realize that I might soon
see her? My next stop is New Albany, and 'tis in
New Albany that Buford had informed me she
dwells, and intimated that I might even find him and
his wife there on my arrival. 'Tis not unlikely,
for he will no doubt choose to remain in the north
through the extreme heat of the summer. New Al-
bany! Caroline! Of a sudden, I forgot the music
and the summer eve, I forgot my companions, and
starting up in feverish haste,, most ungallantly de-
clared that the hour was late, and that I must seek
my inn, since in the morning I was to take the stage
early for my journey's end!
CHAPTER XXI
New Albany, July 30, 1840.
TRULY fortune hath favored me beyond belief
in ending my journey in tliis phice, so n'd-
olent of the perfume of youth, romance and
beauty.
The trail from Vincennes to New Albany is one
of the oldest in the state, having been used by the
Indians in their journeys from Kentucky across the
Falls of the Ohio to Vincennes, one of the oldest
towns in the country. For a long time the stage
route followed exactly the old Indian trail, but in
1832 a new road was opened up, macadamized, ami
made a toll road, the section over the Knobs alone,
I am told, costing $100,000. It is in this old part
of the state quite near New Albany that Corj'don,
the state's first capital, is situated and greatly I re-
gret that lack of time prevents my visiting it. 'Tia
a quaint town, they say, and the old stone capitol
building quite pretentious.
Space will not permit my entering upon a descrip-
tion of this beautiful country, and I have in pre-
vious entries dwelt upon the giant trees, the in-
credible number of wild grapevines festooning them,
the wonderfully luxuriant vegetation, the feathered
songsters of brilliant hues, tlic flowers, all uniting
to form a picture of indescribable loveliness. The
357
358 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
only point I will note is that as we progressed
farther south the vegetation increased in luxuriance,
and the canebrake, so familiar to the dweller in the
land of the cotton and the cane, was frequently to
be observed.
The first town of any size at which our stage
stopped was Washington, the seat of justice of
Daviess County, a flourishing town whose houses are
constructed in a genteel style. Mount Pleasant in
Martin County, on an elevated site, with fine springs,
came next, and then, Hindostan, a village with a
most interesting history, and to whose name the in-
habitants give a most rude and barbarous pro-
nunciation which I succeeded in understanding only
after frequent repetitions, Hindawson.
A gentleman on the stage coach, perceiving my
interest, gave me something of the history of this
town, now fallen into ruin and decay. A trail from
Clarksville (of which more anon) to Vincennes,
crossed the river at this point, and early settlers,
considering the situation an advantageous one, en-
tered land here prior to 1812, the first land, he as-
serted, entered from the United States in this coun-
try. A ferry was established, many settlers came
in, and for a season, the town promised to be one of
the most flourishing settlements in the state. An
early traveler, said he, wrote of it as ''an infant
ville, Hindostan, on the falls of the White River, a
broad crystal stream, running navigable to the Ohio,
over a bed of sand and stone, smooth and white as
a floor of marble, a pleasant, healthy place, the land
rich and inviting." This state of affairs continued
THE OLD STATE CAPITOL AT CORYDON
Pen drawing by Wilbur Driant Shook
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 359
untU 1820, mills and business houses flourishing tli.'
place far m advance of any settlement outsidi. of
Vmcennes and New Albany, wlien, in 1827, a mys-
terious malady swept over the community, like one
of the ancient plagues, and, in a ni-lit, the dead out-
numbered the living. The curse remained after tlie
plague passed on, and never again was it possible to
recall the first prosperity. The next year, the seat
of justice was removed to another to\\-n, the living
departed one by one, and now all that is left of
Hindostan is a few crumbling houses by tlie river,
which ripples on as gayly as ever, over its marbh'-
w^hite bed of sand and stone. A village fallen to
decay is always a melancholy sight, but how much
more melancholy in these Western woods, where all
else is young and flourishing, and where age and
decay would seem to have no part.
Characteristic of this part of the state are tho
many swift and beautiful streams, one of which,
Lick Creek, runs through the settlement of Paoli, a
flourishing post town and seat of justice of the
county of Orange. This town has six stores of
general merchandise, three taverns, two oil mills,
a cotton factory, a county seminary, and the land
surrounding it is, I am informed, good farming land,
in a high state of cultivation, and the farms an*
abounding wdth the comforts and necessaries of life.
It was a matter of deep regret to me that here I
had not the time to go to view a great natural
curiosity nine miles west of this town. The place is
knoAvn as the French Lick, a spring of mineral water
which contains, said my informant, a large portion
360 A TOUR THEOUGH INDIANA IN 1840
of some other substance than salt, though it has not
yet been sufficiently analyzed to determine precisely
the ingredients. It is of a bluish color and emits
a very strong, offensive odor, and is exceedingly
loathsome/
Our road, always beautiful, dropped farther and
farther to the south and we passed through Fred-
ericksburg, on the west bank of Blue Eiver, and then
Greenville, twelve miles northwest of New Albany,
'tis said. When the location of the county seat was
in question Greenville was one of the contestants
and offered a considerable subscription. New Al-
bany's subscription was a few dollars larger, and to
it was added the donation of a bell for the Court
House, and this won the victory.
The range of hills known at New Albany as the
Knobs, and called by the Indians Silver Hills, hence
the legend that somewhere within this range lies a
silver mine known only to the Indians, is said by
my informant to run along the northern bank of the
Ohio from the western part of the state to New
Albany, at which place it turns, circling the city and
runs through the county from south to north, mak-
ing a wide circuit from the river and returning to it
at Madison. Hills is a modest term for these giant
and beautiful elevations, thickly covered with trees
and undergrowth, from whose tops one commands
an entrancing view of the surrounding country. To
*The Gazetteer of 1849 states that this land was donated by the
state to Congress on tlie supposition that the salt might be in suflB-
cient quantity to make its possession valuable to the government,
but as the plan was not practicable, the lands were sold. The
Gazetteer goes on to state that "it has been learned that the waters
are valuable for their medical properties." — Editor.
A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 3G1
tlie top of one of these, Bald Knob, a gentleman of
New Albany led me, one day, up the old Indian trail,
and ne'er shall I forget the view spread before my
eyes. The wide expanse of country, the sparkling
''Belle Riviere" visible in its turns above and below
the city, the Falls with their never ceasing, musical
roar; the fields, covered with bountiful harvests; the
range of Silver Hills, stretching to the horizon,
towering from 400 to 600 feet in grandeur and
beauty; in one direction Jeffersonville, named for
the great Virginian and laid out according to his
plan; on the other, New Albany, most charming
city, with its spacious streets, Water, High, Market
and Spring, running parallel to the river, its public
squares and market houses, its beautiful and com-
modious harbor — surely 'twas with no more en-
rapturing vision than this that Satan tempted the
Master from the mountain top.
Some such view, though not so grand and far-
reaching, because it was from a lower knob, did I
see the time we paused at the Rising Sun Tavern
on the last hill top to be crossed before descending
to the level and New Albany. This hilltop inn was
built, I was told, by Caleb Dayton, who came hero
from Connecticut in 1826. The inn is of logs but
was weatherboarded a few years ago, and is a hand-
some, substantial structure, with high gal)led roof,
and great main room on one side of tlie hall, with a
deep closet with glass doors, and a monstrous fire-
place. The house has many windows, set-in porches
and large wagon yards and a stable to accommodato
both stages and emigrants, and the sign painted
362 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
with the rising sun hangs on an iron arm affixed to
a wooden post in front of the house that all may
see.
'Tis frequently quite merry here, my host in-
formed me, for great hunting parties come over
from Louisville to remain for a week, wearing their
fringed buckskin hunting suits, and with their mus-
kets and their hounds, and there is always the stage
both ways each day, to say nothing of parties of
emigrants pushing into the Wabash country. Mr.
Dayton also made known to me that this road was
known as the Daniel Boone Trace, because 'twas
said that the Indians once stole Daniel Boone's
daughter in Kentucky and that the mighty hunter
pursued them over this road, overtook them, rescued
the girl and wreaked his vengeance upon her
captors.
Again under way, and down the steep hillside past
the famous big Raeger Spring, at which the horses
are always watered, and then, on and on, bits champ-
ing, harness rattling, till we are come into New
Albany !
I had known when I stood on the Dayton knob
and looked over the enchanted and enchanting coun-
try that I should love New Albany; even there
I felt its charm; how much more, as we drove
over its broad streets and drew up with great noise
and ceremony before the long, low, many-gabled,
many-windowed house on High Street, which bore
the name of High Street or Hale's Tavern, one of
the best taverns, the driver had already informed
me, west of the Allegheny Mountains, and one fre-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 363
quented, so he says, by the beauty and fashion of
the South, who flee hither up the Mississippi and
Ohio in the summer season to avoid the dread
scourge of the yellow fever. Mr. Daniel Webster,
he informed me, Mr. Van Buren, Mr. Henry Clay
and Gen. William Henry Harrison have been among
its distinguished guests, to say nothing of a long
array of less widely-kno^^Tl but most excellent
gentlemen. And this, it was explained to me later,
is not at all remarkable, for New Albany is the
head of navigation of the Ohio, and tavern head-
quarters for all steamboat men. Naturally, it is, in
the season, the scene of much festivity and many
social gatherings.
When I entered the low-ceilinged cozy office room
I felt at once this atmosphere of hospitality and of
the charm given a house whose walls have witnessed
much merry making. And when I met mine host I
was still more pleased, for Dr. Hale is a true gentle-
man, his ruffled shirt white as the driven snow, his
broadcloth of the finest and blackest, and his dignity
of the sort that would do credit to a Virginia states-
man, tempered as it is with the proper courtesy to
the stranger. I could see at once why notables,
beauties and fashionables, once come to this inn,
would return again and again.
'Twas Dr. Hale gave me my first historical in-
formation regarding New Albany. 'Twas founded,
he said, by three brothers, Joel, Abner and Na-
thaniel Scribner, who, attracted by the site n(»ar the
Falls of the river, bought it in 181.'^, convlncil tliat
''the world would one dav revolve around New
364 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Albany. '^ This city, says he, now numbering 4,226
inhabitants, and only last year incorporated as a
city, with its matchless situation at the head of
navigation, will in time become the largest interior
city on the continent. Its founders were all public-
spirited men, foremost in all benevolent and liberal
enterprises for building up and bettering the com-
munity, and said he, ''The enterprise, industry,
morality and public spirit which have heretofore
contributed so much to its growth will not fail to
carry it on hereafter.''
Quickly perceiving my interest in the city and its
activities. Dr. Hale told me much of its business, its
printing offices, its stores of general merchandise,
liquor stores, foundries, mills, one in particular, pro-
pelled by steam power, in which 100 barrels of flour
are manufactured in twenty-four hours ; its schools,
of which more anon ; its churches, and above all, its
ship yards, for he said, ''While this country is not
excelled in the state in the variety and extent of its
business, its average income from the river business
alone is more than $75,000 each year."
From 1830 to 1835, he informed me, seventeen
boats were built here, of the value of $377,642.
From 1835 to this year, thirty-three vessels of the
value of $714,942, and the output is expected to rise
in the next year or two to thirty-eight boats each
year. It is this building and the fact that the city
is a headquarters for river men that give it so dif-
ferent an atmosphere from other cities I have
visited, — for there is a constant stream of visitors
and of merchandise from New Orleans and in many
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 365
respects its atmosphere is tliat of a Southern city.
^^'The society of this citj^" says Dr. Hale, "you
will soon perceive, is most delightful. 'Twas be-
cause of these founders and the men wlio have suc-
ceeded them. They first shaped the city in its tastes,
its refinement and geniality and with tlie crowning
glories of religion, and the highest morals to bless
it, it has so continued ever since. The excellent so-
ciety at New Albany will always be its chief attrac-
tion."
'Twas Dr. Hale introduced me to the mayor of the
city, Mr. Shepard Whitman, a most estimable
gentleman, who at once invited me to a meeting of
the Lyceum to be held that same evening at 6 o'clock.
This Lyceum, it seems, was established some years
ago, and has already a number of members and a
library of several hundred valuable books and
the necessary apparatus for illustrating different
sciences.
I found the meeting of special interest l)ecauso
'twas well attended, giving me thus the opjtortunity
to meet at once the to^^^l's most respectable citizens,
and as the constitution and by-laws were read by
the secretary, Mr. Alexander McClelland, I learned
the object and aims of the society. The object of
this— a called meeting— was to rouse the interest of
the members, which, I gathered, had been somewhat
lagging, and on motion of Mr. Whitman, it was "re-
solved that we make all exertion possible to sustain
this institution, inasmuch as we regard it as the most
inestimable means for the advancement of tlie youth
of both sexes as well in morals as in education, and
366 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
that the better to effect this object, Mr. T. J. Barnett
be requested to deliver an introductory address at
the next meeting and that the public generally be in-
vited to attend and unite with us." This Mr.
Barnett, I was to learn later, is both an editor and a
lawyer, a man of splendid attainments, a superior
scholar and a fine speaker, one of the finest, indeed,
in the city.
The members present were Dr. Clapp, Mr. John
Evans, Mr. D. M. Hooper, my host, Mr. AVhitman,
Mr. H. B. Shields, Mr. Charles Woodruff, Mr. David
Hedden, Mr. T. J. Barnett, Mr. Andrew Thickstun,
Mr. James Brocks and Mr. Alexander McClelland.
Of these. Dr. Clapp is the president, Mr. Hooper,
the vice-president of the Lyceum, Mr. Shields, the
treasurer, Mr. Thickstun, the librarian, Mr. Hedden,
one of the curators. Mr. Bollman, the correspond-
ing secretary, was not present, and neither was Mr.
Dwyer, the other curator.
In chatting with these gentlemen after the meet-
ing, for all proved themselves most agreeable and
tarried to converse with me, I learned that Mr.
Hedden is one of the pioneer settlers, and that the
name Shields is one indissolubly connected with the
settling of New Albany. Mr. Patrick Shields, whom
I was later to meet, 'being one of its most distin-
guished citizens, an associate of Gen. Harrison, a
member of the Constitutional Convention, the first
circuit judge of Harrison County, an associate judge
of this county, and his wife, the daughter of Clement
Nance, a Huguenot, she said to be the first white
woman to cross the Knobs.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 367
Dr. Clapp I found to bo a most aj;r(>oablc K<'iitl('-
man. He, too, came here nearly thirty years ago
and married a daughter of one of the founders of
the town. He is a most prominent, influential and
respected citizen and a most successful practitioner,
and through his kindness I mot many of tlie physi-
cians of the city. Dr. P. S. Shields, Dr. Leonard, Dr.
Cooper, Dr. Stewart, Dr. Hoover and Dr. Dowling,
also a Dr. John Sloan, who had but recently gradu-
ated from BoAvdoin College and come here to engage
in the practice of medicine.
I made also the acquaintance of many of the
lawyers, this through a letter to John S. Davis, a
gentleman of prominence both in the law and in
politics, and who is in partnership with ^laj. Henry
P. Thornton, who introduced mo to his brothers at
the bar. Especially congenial I found Randall
Crawford, who is a fine student and scholar and
who, with James C. Collins, has, 'tis said, three-
fourths of the law business of the city.
Other names I will sot down that I may not for-
get them, some merchants, some city ollioials, all
men of prominence: Peter Stoy, a pioneer; Mr.
Paxton and Mr. Eastburn, Jamos R. Sliields. cashier
of the bank, a most imposing structure with great
columns at the front; Uv. Fitch, Mr. Warren, Mr.
Pattison, Preston F. Tuley and Mr. Pennington, the
merchant. I was soon to learn that a meetinir with
any one of these gontlomon meant, through liis kind
offices, a meeting witli another and another, so that,
in an incredibly short time T hnd shaken tin* hand
of nearly every respectable citizen of the place and
368 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
had received more invitations to various gatherings
than I had the time to accept.
'Twas on my way to some meeting to which I had
been invited, stopping along High Street to gaze
into the window of Mr. Pattison, where was to be
seen a most ravishing display of hats, black beavers,
gray and white, also black and drab satin beavers,
and gentlemen's leghorn hats, which display minded
me, that as the weather here was become of such
extreme warmth, I should mayhap purchase me one
of these leghorns and don my linen suit. Suddenly,
I felt a touch on my arm, and looked around to be-
hold my old friend, Louis Hicklin.
Time permits not that I should inscribe all the
words that passed between us, for I was truly at-
tached to this good man, and I could see that time
and absence had not diminished the affection he had
so clearly demonstrated that he felt for me. His
welcome was a warm one. He has but just come to
this part of the country to preach at some camp
meetings, and as he was at this moment at leisure,
he insisted that I stroll with him about the streets
and pass the time in conversation over my travels
and experiences since we parted. We did so, and
he at the same time told me something of the his-
tory of his church in New Albany. Being an old
town, the church was founded early, and is now
strong and flourishing, there having been held last
year at the Wesley Chapel a most extensive and
powerful revival of religion. My friend the Rev.
Allen Wiley, who took me to the camp meeting, was
stationed here a few years ago, and was most popu-
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 369
lar, a statement I did not in the least question. Mr.
Hicklin bethought himself to tell me a most excellent
story of a recent conference here, a year or two ago,
perhaps.^
Most of the preachers from the eastern part of
the state, among them Mr. Hicklin, wlio was then
stationed at Vevay, came on the river and on their
return forty or fifty of them, among them Bishop
Soule, took passage on the General Pike, a steam-
boat running between Louisville and Cincinnati.
There was a large company of gamblers on board,
said Mr. Hicklin, returning from the Louisville
races, which had just closed. These men took pos-
session of the gentleman's cabin and in a short time
were engaged in gambling at cards and in consum-
ing vast quantities of liquor. Bishop Soulo, a re-
markable person, tall, muscular and athletic, viewed
this scene with the utmost abhorrence, and, pres-
ently calling the ministers together, he began to
sing, joined at once by his companions :
"Jesus, the name high over all,
In hell or earth or sky ;
Angels and men before it fall,
And devils fear and fly."
It did not take many such h>Tnns, shouted forth in
such stentorian tones, said Mr. Hicklin, to cause
these ' ' devils ' ' to fly. Very shortly they a])andoned
the cabin and fled either to the deck or to their state-
rooms, and the rest of the voyage was passed in
decent quiet.
^This conference to which Mr. Parsonn rrf.-rs waB hM in N'rw
Albany in 1837.— Editor.
370 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
Mr. Hicklin pointed out to me in the course of
our stroll the New Albany Seminary,^ a flourishing
institution under the protection of the Methodist
Church, with about 200 scholars, male and female.
When on my return to the inn, after an appoint-
ment with Mr. Hicklin for the morrow, I spoke with
Mrs. Hale of the flourishing condition of the Meth-
odist Church, she at once declared that the Presby-
terian, the church of the Scribner family, was in an
equally flourishing condition, having held its first
meeting in 1817 in the old Scribner home. She also
told me of the female prayer meeting organized in
1823, at her home, the tavern, by herself, Mrs.
Ayres, Mrs. Robinson and Mrs. Shields, and of the
organization, the next year, of the Female Bible So-
ciety at the home of Mrs. Phoebe Scribner, at which
Mrs. Robinson, Mrs. Ayres, Mrs. Jones, Mrs. Abner
and Mrs. Joel Scribner became members, together
with fifty-eight other ladies, and the organization is
still flourishing. The Baptist and Campbellite
Churches were also founded here at a somewhat
later date and all have flourished, so that Dr. Hale
is without doubt correct when he attributes much
of the city's flourishing condition to ''the crowning
glories of religion and the highest morals. ' '
I was told, too, a most interesting story of a
French settlement (there are two near by), whose
"This institution, founded in 1835 and continuing for ten years,
was the predecessor of the famous DePauw Female College at New
Albany. "Although the seminary was discontinued as a conference
institution, and ceased, it nevertheless accomplished great good in its
day and showed that the Methodist was then, as now, the real friend
of Christian education." E. C. Holliday's "Indiana Methodism," —
Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 371
brick clmrch, St. Mary's-of-tlio-Knobs, was built but
a few years ago and wliosc priest, a most interest-
ing character, Father Neyron, was a soldier under
Napoleon, a surgeon of great ability, Miio came to
America and became a priest.*
My appointment for the morrow with Mr. Hicklin
promised the greatest interest. He was going over
into the adjoining county of Clark, in wliich lies
Jeffersonville, to a camp meeting, and he proposed
that I ride over to that city in his company, view
the surrounding country and city, and thence return
to New Albany, while he continued on the way to his
appointment. As he has trod tliese paths so many
times and is so familiar with the country and its
history, I hailed the opportunity with delight, find-
ing, moreover, much pleasure in his company.
On the morrow^ therefore, we set forth early, each
on horseback, he having his horse and I hiring one,
a good animal, with the help of Dr. Hale, ever most
obliging.
Leaving New Albany behind and pusliing on over
the level country wliich lies between it and .T(^(Tcr-
sonville, we rode rapidly, the roads licing in good
condition, and Mr. Hicklin passing the time most
pleasantly in relating to me the story of Clark's
grant. For a long time this county was spoken of,
he says, as "the Grant," for in 1783, Virginia gave
to George Rogers Clark, his officers and sol(li«'rs in
* It is most unfortunate that ^fr. Parsons did not visit th.-w tt-
tlements and give us more information ronccrninp tliom. Tlioro wrr©
two, one near Mooresville, tlie other on tlie Riidd R.md. U.th nt nni»
time very flourishing. At the first named, a frnat ,-...-i..Tai:.- ».iii»in.'M
was carried on for a time. Both settlements and truditions are now
Almost vanished. — Editor.
372 A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
the Revolution the 149,000 acres of land here, to-
gether with 1,000 acres on which was to be located
the town of Clarksville, and this land is still under
the jurisdiction of Virginia.^
He pointed out to me the town of Clarksville and
the two-story log house erected by Gen. Clark, in
which he lived for a season, beautifully situated
upon General's Point, giving a delightful view of
the Falls, and told the sad story of his life and death
which I had already heard at Vincennes. In this
county is the town of Charlestown, he informed me,
in which lived the state's first Governor, Jonathan
Jennings, and Judge Dewey, whom I had met at
Indianapolis. Governor Posey, he says, once lived
at Jeff ersonville.
The situation of JefPersonville is a beautiful one,
on a terrace a mile above the Falls, beside a deep
eddy where boats of the largest size can approach
within a cable length of the shore at all stages of
the water, and with an enchanting view of Louis-
ville and Corn Island, a historic spot on which Mr.
Hicklin told me. Gen. Clark's army encamped in
May, 1778, on their way to Kaskaskia.^
*This "Grant" was originally controlled by a charter given by
Virginia. In 1852 the General Assembly of Indiana annulled this
charter and gave Clarksville a charter under the laws of the state.
The old patent dated 1786 and signed by Edmund Randolph of Vir-
ginia is still preserved at Clarksville. — Editor.
®Tliis historic spot was a long, narrow strip of land about three-
fourths of a mile in length, reaching from what is now Fourth Street
to Fourteenth Street in Louisville, and very near the south side of
the river. By 1840 much of the heavy timber in which the early set-
tlers had found refuge from the Indians had been cut away and the
island had washed away to about seventy acres. It has now en-
tirely disappeared, and even its location is a subject of dispute.: —
Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 373
In 1825, said Mr. Hicklin, wlicn Gen. Lafayette
paid Ms visit to this country, making a tour under
the supervision of the Federal government, he was
entertained most sumptuously at JefTcrsonville.
As he was brought over to Jeffersonville on the
General Pike a salute of thrice twenty-four ,mins was
fired from cannon stationed on the river bank, where
had been erected three flag staffs twenty feet high
with appropriate flags. A reception was tendered
him, and afterward, a great dinner, the table spread
under an arbor woven of beech boughs, in u wood
just above the Posey mansion. At the head of the
table was placed a transparency bearing the words,
^'Indiana welcomes Lafayette, the champion of
liberty in both hemispheres," and at the foot, an-
other bearing the words, '' Indiana, in 1770, a wilder-
ness; in 1825, a civilized community! Thanks to
Lafayette and the soldiers of the Revolution."
The welcome address was made by Governor
James Brown Ray, concerning whom I have written
in previous entries. There were a vast number of
guests present, among them many from Kentucky,
fine music by a band, a splendid military escort, a
great number of most eloquent toasts, altogetlier,
'tis said to be the greatest occasion e'er witnessed
on Indiana soil. Mr. Hicklin made merrj' over my
stopping him on horseback tliat I might note those
items in my commonplace book, but I assured him
that if I did not have it all set down witli exactness,
time, place and names, it would not be credited by
my family and friends, ^vho have no idea of tlie ad-
vance of civilization in the Western country.
374 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
We parted in Jeffersonville, and this time some-
what sadly, for I am soon to take my way home-
ward, and we each felt that we might never meet
again. Having given me his blessing, the good man,
spurring his horse, turned his face toward the camp
grounds, and I mine toward the tavern to which he
had directed me.
'Tis well that I have kept so exact a diary ; other-
wise, I myself might find it difficult to believe all
the experiences I have had, all the novelties I have
found in the western country. How was I to know
that here in Jeffersonville I was to find a resort of
beauty and fashion unexcelled in any spot I have
ever seen?
Years ago, 'twas discovered that in the outskirts
of Jeffersonville were several valuable springs
mineralized by sulphur and iron, a powerful natural
chalybeate water, and the proprietor, a Swiss, by
name Fischli, realizing their value and possible
profit to himself, erected a large and commodious
building for the reception of those who sought re-
lief either from physical indisposition, their own
thoughts, or the disagreeable atmosphere of the
cities during the summer months, and laid off the
surrounding grounds most beautifully and attrac-
tively in walks, bath houses, bowling alleys, foun-
tains, and puzzle gardens. The fame of the place
spread rapidly by the river route, and it soon be-
came a mecca for visitors from the South with their
families, who hastened here to enjoy a brilliant and
attractive society during the summer months. So
popular did the place become that two years ago the
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 375
owners— Mr. Fischli is now dead— erected a spa-
cious and palatial tavern on the river bank, tlie finest
of its kind, 'tis said, in Indiana or Kentucky, aii.l
graded tlie street leading out to the springs, Broad-
way, which soon proved, I am told, a highway for
the equipage of fashion and wealth.
'Twas toward this caravansary that, following the
direction of Mr. Hicklin, I turned my steps, and who
can refuse to believe in fate? Tliere, upon one of
the porticoes — the sight of them, filled as they were
with fashionably-clad women and men, made my
heart beat faster — whom should I descry but my
friend Buf ord and his lovely wife !
The recognition was instant, and the upshot of
our meeting was that I dispatched a servant to New
Albany for some of my baggage, and spent several
days in their company. I have not time nor space to
set it down, our rides, our drives, our entertainment
by Capt. Fitzgerald, — an old sea captain, who dwells
in a magnificent mansion built in the Soutliern styh'
with a great columned porch — presided over, he be-
ing a bachelor, by his sister, Mrs. Duanc, at a lavish
repast, with rounds of beef, elegant desserts, tle-
licious wines, all served in a most elegant fasliion,
and many others. '*0, the dalliance and the wit, the
flattery and the strife!" Quickly the days sped by
in this charmed circle, and all at once I realized that
the time had come to say good-by to this merry-
making and turn my steps homeward. I comnuini
cated my thoughts to Buford, sitting one ni«;ht on
the portico in the moonlight.
''To-morrow, come wliat may," said I firmly, "I
376 A TOUE THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
must set my face toward home. Early in the
morning I will return to New Albany for my
baggage and take my passage on the boat for Cin-
cinnati. ' *
**And are you going to leave us and New Albany
without once inquiring about Caroline?" he in-
quired. "My wife and I have waited and won-
dered, but she has refused, so far, to let me
speak. She said that you perhaps had forgotten
her.''
I confessed then that my stubborn tongue had re-
fused to ask the question. I had watched and
waited in New Albany, hoping that I might en-
counter her on the street, that somewhere I might
hear her name mentioned. Again and again I had
tried to question him, but for some reason I could
not.
" 'Twas no wonder you did not hear her name;
her father was a steamboat captain and is long since
dead. She and her mother live very quietly in the
old house. You will have no trouble to find it ; they
are well known — the house is a handsome old dwel-
ling. Go, and — " he laughed as he rose and ex-
tended his hand in farewell, '^I may not see you in
the morning if you are to depart so early — go, and
God be with you ! ' '
'Twas a laughing adieu, but still I .felt, at heart,
a sincere wish for my welfare and happiness. And
so to bed and on the morrow I was on my way back
to New Albany — New Albany and journey's end.
And what was the couplet that ran through my head
and would not out, but repeated itself again and
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 377
again such as such foolish things have a habit of
^oing?
"Trip no farther, pretty sweeting,
Journeys end in lovers' meeting?,
Every wise man's son doth know."
By judicious inquiry and a little direction, I soon
found the house. 'Twas one of those old mansions
which give the place its character, situated on the
high bank of the river, with its terraced .i^Mrden sloj)-
ing down to the water, its three-storied lattic»*d
porches facing the stream. The grounds, to which
entrance was given through a great iron gate, were
handsomely laid off in a formal garden, with latticed
arbors and sununer house, the winding walks set
with little box^vood trees between two rows of conch
shells, two huge pink shells on either side of the
front door, a sure sign, I had been told, of tlie river
man's home. The door, with its side lights and
beautiful fan light, recalled my o^vn home, as did the
black girl Avho opened the door to me.
''Miss Caroline? She done gone to the summer
house with her w^ork. You want me to call her!"
No, I would seek her out, and turning, I walked
slowly, with fast beating heart, toward the distant
summer house, whose doorway, I surmised, faced
the river, so that I could come upon her unaware.
Slowly I went down the graveled path, gazing
at the bordering plants, wondering wliat I should
say first. Then, of a sudden, a thought— and
hurriedly, I stooped and plucked the flowers, mak-
ing my selection most carefully, toucli-me-not, blue-
bell, columbine, heliotrope, honeysuckle, myrtle,
378 A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840
pansy and rosebud — a most creditable nosegay/
The summer house, vine covered, faced the river,
and there, seated in a low chair, her needlework
fallen on her lap, the shining bands of her hair
drooping over her flushed cheek, sat the lovely
Caroline, her deep blue eyes full of dreams. My
heart leaped up as I looked at her — modest as the
dove, beautiful as an angel — lovelier, far lovelier
was she than I had dreamed her. I paused a mo-
ment, unseen, to gaze upon the vision; then, the
sound of the gravel under my foot aroused her from
her reverie and, turning, her eyes met mine!
I pressed the nosegay into her hands. **Read,
read," I murmured. And, reading, she turned those
glorious eyes upon me, then let the jetty lashes
sweep her blushing cheek !
"Journeys end in lovers' meeting,
Every wise man's son doth know."
'The reader must remember that Mr. Parsons had purchased in
Richmond a copy of "The Flower Vase," the book which Miss Caro-
line had carried on her journey, and had therefrom learned the lan-
guage of flowers, a language with which every young lady of that
day was conversant. Hence, his nosegay expressed, in the order in
which he has named the flowers, impatience, constancy, I can not
give thee up, true love, devotion, fidelity, love in absence, tender and
pleasant thoughts, and confession of love. — Editor.
A TOUR THROUGH INDIANA IN 1840 379
NOTE
On- his way home from New Albany, happy in his
engagement to Miss Caroline Hunter, Mr. Parsons
left the boat at Cincinnati and went to Oxford, Ohio,
to visit some relatives from Maryland, who, he
heard, had gone there soon after the War of 1812,
the same relatives whom his cousin Jonathan had
joined after leaving the Wabash country. While
here, he suddenly sickened and died, whether from
some epidemic disease or from some physical weak-
ness aggravated by the hardships of his long journey
is not known. Had he lived, his education, his na-
tive brilliancy, his charming personality, would cer-
tainly have insured him success and position. The
Diary, recently brought to light, is all that remains
of his papers.
Editor.
INDEX
Academy, Jennings Co., 78.
Adams, John Quincy, 45.
"Affection's Gift," 49.
Ague, 145; Wabash, 76.
Album, 49.
"Altissonant Letters, The,"
137.
American Tavern, The, 338.
Americus, 237, 238.
Amington, Dr. William, 96.
Andrews, Alanson, 78.
Anti-Slavery Society, 12, 132.
"Arabs, The," 62.
Arion, C. P., 63.
Armitage, John, 236.
Asbury, Bishop F., 284.
Asburv College, 104, 285, 294.
Austin, John B., 273.
Axtell, Misses, 153.
Ayres, Mrs., 370.
Baldwin, Mr,, 84.
Baldwin, Dr. Elihu, 274.
Ball, Dr., 318.
Ball, Mr., 332.
Baltimore, 3, 33.
Baltimore & Ohio & Patapsco
Eiver R. R., 6.
"Baltimore Patriot, The," 4.
Bansemer, Mr., 241.
Baptists, 57, 69, 103.
Barbecue, 87, 346, 347.
Barbour, Lucian, 181, 182.
Barbour, Mr., 331.
Barnett, Mr. T. J., 366.
Barnum's Hotel, 3.
Bates, Hervey, 188.
Bates, Sidney, 160.
Battle Ground (Tippecanoe), 82,
86, 87.
Beecher, Rev. Henry Ward, 149,
154, 156. , ,^,
Beecher, Mrs. Henry Ward, 157.
381
Bell Factory, 36.
"Bellevue," 354.
"Ben Franklin, The." 44.
"Ben Sherrod, The," 17.
Bennett, Father, 356.
Berrv, Rev. L. W.. 139.
Biddle, Horace, 208.
Big Raccoon Creek, 268.
Birds, 52, 222.
Blackford, Judge Isaac, 177, 178,
179, 180, 187, 339.
Black Hawk War, The, 163, 202.
Blake, James, 146, 147, 218, 231,
232.
Blake, Dr. Richard, 318.
Blake, Thomas H., 325,
Blakemore, G. W., 207.
Blanchard, Dr., 234.
Blast furnace. 334.
Blennerhassett, 17, 29, 30.
"Bloodv Three Hundred, The,"
165, 202.
Bloodv Wav, The, 28.
Bloom'field.'Mr. Lot, 119, 122.
Bloomington, 60.
Blue grass, 283.
Blue River, 1.30.
Bobbs, Dr. John 8., 187,
Bollman, Mr., 366.
Bolton, Nathaniel, 172.
Bolton, Sarah T., 160, 172, 17.1.
Bonner. Mr.. 354.
Boone County, 196, 198, 199.
Boone, Daniel, 98, 196.
Boonesborough, 32.
Bond. Nathan, 120.
Booth, Mr., 271.
Brake, 10.
Bright 's Essay. 57.
Bright. Jesse D.. 61, 63, 65, 66.
69, 73, 172.
Bright, Michael, 63.
Brooks, Mr., 88.
382
INDEX
Brooks, Mr. James, 366.
Brookville, 44, 53, 89, 96, 97, 105.
Brown, Hiram, 184.
Browne, Miss Augusta, 253.
Browning, Edward, 141, 188.
Browning, Miss Elizabeth, 188.
Brownstown, 60.
Brownsville, 110.
Bruce, George, 163.
Buckeye, 155.
Buford, Thomas, 21, 23, 24, 26,
27, 50, 122, 124, 132, 133, 375.
Buffum, Arnold, 12, 18, 21, 38.
Bulleit, Mr., 32, 34, 35, 37.
Bullock, Mr., 24, 40.
Bullock, W. A., 78.
Burbank, Mr., 119.
Burbridge, Mr., 273.
Burdine, Peter, 8.
Burkham, Mr., 46.
Burns, Harrison (note), 69.
Burns, James, 69.
Burns, John, 69.
Burr, Aaron, 30, 69.
Butler, Ovid, 183.
Burt, Dr., 78.
Byrne, Andrew, 163.
Cabin, pioneer, 224.
Caddington, Mr., 345.
Calloway, Col. Eichard, 32.
Cambridge City, 135, 136.
Cambridge City Seminary, 136.
Camp meeting, 302-310.
Campaign songs, 16.
Campbell, Allen, 84.
Canals, 34, 35, 128.
Canbv, Dr. Israel, 271-273.
Carroll County, 195, 221, 230,
234.
Cass County, 201.
Centerville, 105, 114, 115, 135,
195.
Centerville Musical Institute,
117.
Chamberlain, Mr., 325.
Chapiu, Mr., 297.
Chapman, Mr., 310, 311, 323.
Charlestown, 182, 372.
Chinese, 35.
Christ Church, 186.
Cider presses, 91, 92.
Cincinnati, 18, 19, 32-36.
Circle, The Governor's, 144.
Circuit Eider, The, 8, 13, 15, 16,
18, 21, 24, 40, 48, 122.
Circuit riders, 41, 284, 352.
Clay, Henry, 5, 15, 284, 332, 333,
363.
Clapp, Dr., 366, 367.
Clarke's Commentaries, 57.
Clarke County, 370.
Clark, George Eogers, 83, 98.
Clark's Grant, 371, 372.
Clark, Jack,, 297.
Clark, John C, 339.
Clark, Mr., 83.
Clarksville, 358, 372.
Clinton County, 200.
Coach, 7.
Coe, Dr. Isaac, 153.
Coffin, Elijah, 127.
Coffin, Levi, 124, 130, 132.
Colleges, Hanover, 70 ; State Col-
lege, 60, 149, 184; Asbury,
104, 290, 292; Wabash, 268-
278.
Collins, James C, 367.
Colton, J. H., 1.
Commons, Mr. David, 119.
Conestoga wagons, 12.
Congregational Church, 331.
Connecticut, 28.
Connolly, Gilmore, 297.
"Constancy" (verse), 50.
"Constitution," 86.
Conventions, Democratic, 5;
Young Whig, 5, 6.
Cook, Eliza, 252.
Cook, John and Nat, 190.
Cooper, Dr., 367.
Corduroy roads, 89.
Corn Island, 372.
Corydon, 357.
Cotton, Judge, 45, 46.
"Cotton's Keepsake," 45.
Cotton, Miss Lavinia, 130, 131,
132.
County Seminary, 153.
Country wedding, 226-228.
Court House, Indianapolis, 148.
Coverlets, 224, 225.
Covington, Ind., 220.
Covington, Ky., 37.
INDEX
Cowan, John Maxwell, 279.
Cox, Sandford C, 255.
Cravens, John R., 63, 73.
Crawford, Col. William, 269.
Crawford, Randall, 367.
Crawfordsville, 269,
Creagh, Mr. and Mrs., 61.
Creagh, Misses Mary and Nancy,
61, 62.
"Crow, Chapman, Crow," 323.
Crusoe, Robinson, 1, 90.
Cumberland, 10, 11.
Cumberland Mountain, 9.
Cumberland Road, 7, 10, 16.
Cunningham Tavern, 301.
Daniels, Dr., 318.
Dayton, Caleb, 361.
Dayton Knob, 362.
Dayton, Ohio, 35, 95.
Davis, John S., 367.
Davis, Major Randolph, 273.
Davidson, Mr. Alexander, 160.
Davidson, Mr. Andrew, 96.
Dearborn Countv, 43.
Death, John, 138.
Debates (religious), 97.
Decatur Countv, 95.
Deckaneers, 23, 29.
Defrees, John D., 165.
Delphi, 229, 233, 236.
Delphi House, 233.
Deming, Judge Demas, 330.
Deming, Dr. Elizur, 255.
Democratic speakers, 97.
Democrats, 98, 122.
Dewey, Judge Charles, 182, 372.
Dickinson, Miss Sarah, 117.
Digby, William, 238.
Dill, Mr., 117.
Dillon, John B., 208, 209, 210.
Doddridge's "Rise and Prog-
ress," 57.
Douglass, Mr., 204.
Dowling, Dr., 36.
Dowling, John, 325.
Drake, Gen. James P., 165.
Drake, Mr., 352, 353.
Drum, George, 183.
Dublin Academy, 137.
Dublin Female Seminary, 137.
Dublin, Ind., 137.
Dufour, Mr., 51.
Dumont, Ebenezer, 46, 53, 148.
Dumont, Julia L., 46, 53, 172.
Duncan, Robert B., 172, 17r), 18fi,
190.
Dunn, George G., 346, 348.
Dunn, George IT., 34, 35, 42, 44,
46, 52, 99, 156.
Dunn, Judge Williamson, 269.
Dwyer, Mr., 366.
"Eagle and the Lion, The," 315.
Eaglc?field. William, 296.
Eagle Village, 196.
Eastburn, Mr., 367.
Eel River, 201, 204.
Eel River Seminar>' Society, 207.
Egglcston, Edward, 52.
Eggleston, George Cary, 52.
Egglcston, Joseph Carv, 52, 99.
Egglcston, Miles Carv, 52, 99,
1(57, 183.
"Elkhorn, The," 64.
Ellicott 's Mills, 6, 8, 23.
Ellis, Mr. A. T., 340.
Ellsworth, Henry W., 241, 242.
Elston, Maj. Isaac. 273.
Episcopal Church, 186.
Evans, John, 366.
Ewing, Dr., 236.
Ewing, John, 349, 350, 354.
Ewing, Nathaniel. 340.
"Express, The," 234.
"Extra Equator, The," 214,215,
313.
Fairfield. 108.
Fall Creek, 143.
Falls, 372.
"Fannv, " Mrs. Vawter*!* hor«<<,
80.
Farlcv, Judge Joseph. 2S1.
"Farmer," William Vawter'«
horse, 80.
Faro, 24.
Farrington, James, 32.'>.
Farrington, Mrs., 341.
Farrow, Col. Alexander, 283.
Fayette, 109.
"Federurl>ian," 111.
Fellows, Capt. Willis, 337.
Female Bible Society, 370.
384
INDEX
Female Prayer Meeting, 370.
Finley, John, 44, 118, 172.
First Presbyterian Church (In-
dianapolis), 156.
Fischli's Springs, 374.
"Fishing Peter," 306.
Fitch, Dr. Graham, 207, 208.
Fitch, Mr., 367.
Fitzgerald, Capt., 375.
Flatboats, 27, 28, 239'.
Fletcher, Calvin, 146, 151, 152,
176, 177, 178, 204, 284.
Fletcher, Stoughton A., 165.
"Flower Vase, The," 14, 378.
Floods, 43.
Fordham, Elias, 144.
Fort Harrison, 314.
Fourth of July Celebration, 245,
246, 247.
Fowler, Mr. Moses, 255,
Franklin County, 97.
Franklin Institute, 153.
Frederick, Md., 7, 9.
Fredericksburg, Ind., 360.
Fredericksburg, Va., 2.
French immigrants, 31.
French Lick, 359, 360.
French, Mrs., 32.
Friends, Society of, 12, 114.
Frostburg, 11.
Fry, Mr., 14.
Fry, Mr. Smith, 279.
Gadsby's, 3.
Gamblers, 21.
Gallipolis, 31.
"Gate Bob," 11.
General Pike, 369.
General 's Point, 372.
Georgetown, 220.
Gibbons' Miscellaneous "Works,
53.
Gillespie, Dr. Eobert, 46.
Gibson, Mr. S. R., 340.
Gilbert, Curtis, 315, 332.
Gilliland, Samuel, 273.
"Good Intent" Line, 7.
Goodwin, Thomas A,, 104, 286-
291.
Gookins, Judge, 330.
"Governor's Circle, The," 144,
177.
* * Governor 's Mansion, The, ' '
147, 177, 178, 187.
"Governor's Square, The," 144.
Graham, Mr., 236.
Grahamtown, 63.
Grantham, Judge, 236.
"Gray Backs," 161.
Green, R. C, 234.
Greencastle, 104, 280-294.
Greene County, 334.
Greensburg, 96, 97.
Greensburg Seminary, 96.
Greenfield, 140.
Greenville, 360.
Gregg, Harvey, 163.
Gregg, Mr., 46.
Gregory, James, 273.
Griswold, Mr., 325.
"Grouseland," 352-3.
Guitar, 68, 365.
Hagerstown, Md., 9.
Hale's Tavern, 362.
Hall, Washington, 141, 166.
Hamilton County, 19'6.
Hanna, Gen. Eobert, 165.
Hannah, Mr. Samuel, 116, 122.
Hancock, 9.
Hancock County, 140.
Hannegan, Edward A., 193.
Hanover College, 70.
Hard Cider Campaign, 91.
Hardesty, Mr. Rees, 283.
Harrison, Cleves, 353.
Harrison, William Henry, 4, 15,
16, 17, 38, 41, 42, 57, 66, 82,
94, 98, 126, 154, 248.
Harrison Mass Meeting, 341,
347-349.
Harvard College, 182.
Hatcher, Mary, 241.
Havens, Father, 186.
Hawley, Rev. Ransom, 297.
Hedden, Mr. David, 366.
Hemans, Mrs., 253.
Henry County, 137.
Henderson, Mr. "Wyatt, 96.
Hendricks, Abram T., 91.
Hendricks, John, 296.
Hendricks, Mrs. A., 70.
Hepler, Dan, 297.
Herron, James, 273.
INDEX
385
Hicklin, Louis, 13, 40, 4], 48,
54, 57, 59, 61, 73, 122, 130,
131, 133, 368, 371.
Hicklin, Mrs., 57.
Hill, Mr. S., 340.
Hindostan, 358.
Historical and Antiquarian So-
ciety of Vincennes, 340.
Hodgkins, John, 189.
Hogs, 90, 91.
Holloway, D. P., 125.
Holt, Joseph F., 160.
Hooper, Mr. D. M., 366.
"Hoosier's Nest, The," 118.
Hoover, David, 115, 122.
Hoover, Dr., 367.
Horseback travel, advantages of,
81.
Horticultural Society, Indian-
apolis, 157.
Hashour, Prof. S. K., 136.
Houseworth, Henry, 111.
Howe, Daniel H., 47.
Howe, Daniel Waite, 47 (note).
Hovey, Dr., 274.
Howard, Tilghman A., 257.
Hubbard, w: S., 157.
Hunter, Miss Caroline, 14, 16,
23, 24, 31, 37, 55, 356, 376,
377.
Hunt Tavern, 44.
"Indian Orchard," 336.
"Indian" (steamboat), 336,337.
Indian Summer, 338.
Indiana, 17.
"Indiana" (poem), 174.
Indiana College, 60, 149.
Indiana Insane Hospital, 172
(note).
"Indiana Journal, The," 163.
Indianapolis, 35, 85, 102, 134-
142.
Indianapolis Court House, 148.
Indianapolis Female Institute,
153.
"Indianapolis Gazette," 172.
Indianapolis Horticultural So-
ciety, 157.
Indianapolis Thespian Corps,
169.
Indigenous plants, 54.
Immigration, Tides of. 194.
Inns, 13, 37, 44, 75, 93, 94.
Internal Improvements, 27 40
99. » I .
Isle de Beau, 16, 29.
Jackson, Andrew, 45, 65.
Jeiferson County, ."i8, 79.
Jefferson, Thomas, 47, 106, 2ns,
354.
"JefFersonian and Working-
man's Advocate, The," 121.
Jeffersonville. 361, 371, 374.
Jenckes, Judge, 330.
Jennings County Academy, 78.
Jennings, Jonathan, 74, 372.
Jewett, Rev. Mr., 331.
"Jim Crow," 323.
Johnson, Jim, "Son of Metho-
dism," 97.
Johnson, Rev. S. B., 240, 249,
250.
Jones, Mr., 254, 261, 267, 278,
279.
Jones, Mrs., 376.
Judah, Samuel, 339.
"Julia," 250, 251, 253, 254.
Julian, George W., 116, 120, 121,
124, 126, 129.
Julian, Jacob, 116.
Julian, Mrs. Rebecca, 116, 117.
"June Bug Line," 8.
Kemper, Rev, James, 154.
Kenton, Simon, 98.
Kentucky, 14.
Ketcham, John L., 160.
Kidwell, 110.
Killikelly, Rev. Mr., 352.
King, John, 63.
Kinney, Capt. Ephraim, 54.
Kinnev, Judge, 330.
Kirk, Nathan, 200.
Kirklin, 200.
Knight, Elijah, 1.38.
Knightstown, 13S, 139.
Knobs, The, 361.
"Kyarliny Kiver, A," 225, 2«.1.
Lafavetto (city), 60, 237, 239,
259.
Lafayette, General, 8, 373.
386
INDEX
Lane, Henry S., 270, 322.
"Language of Mowers, The,"
14, 125.
Lanier, J. F. D., 63.
Lashley House, 116.
Lasselle, Charles, 213, 214.
Lasselle, Hyacinth, 209, 213, 312.
Lathrop, Mr. Ezra, 9'6.
Lattimore, Eev. David, 78.
LaTourette, 225.
''Laurel Wreath, The," 49.
Lawrenceburg, 34, 35, 42, 44, 49,
131.
Law, Judge John, 341, 342, 343.
Lawyers (Indiana), 181, 182,
185.
Layman, Albert, 297.
Layman, Dr. D. W., 298, 299.
Leeds & Jones Paper Mill, 128.
Lemon, Alex, 279.
Leonard, Dr., 367.
Letcher, Hon. Eobert P., 14, 15,
17, 18, 20, 21, 24, 26, 30, 35.
Liberty, 109.
Library, State, 147.
Lick Creek, 359.
Licking Kiver, 38.
Limestone, Ky. (Maysville), 32.
Lindley, Jonathan, 312.
Linton, Mr., 335.
Little Cedar Baptist Church,
103.
Lockwood, Eufus A., 245, 246,
247, 248.
Log Cabin, 15, 16, 38, 39.
Log Cabin Candidate, 5.
Logansport, 192-204.
Logansport Seminary, 206.
"Logansport Telegraph, The,"
209.
Lotteries, 217, 218.
Louisville, Ky., 32.
Lucy, 14.
Lyceum, 117, 118.
Lynch, Col. John, 281.
Madden, Mr., 292.
Madison, 13, 17, 39, 48, 53, 55,
72.
"Madison Courier, The," 65.
Madison and Indianapolis Rail-
road, 59 (note).
Madison, T. A., 325.
Maguire, Douglass, 190.
Mail, carrying of, 230.
Manford, Erasmus, 47, 110.
Mansion House, The, 116, 135,
204.
Mansion, The Governor's, 147.
Mansur, Jeremiah, 128.
Maple sugar, 81.
Marietta, 29.
Marion County, 141, 196.
Marion County Court House,
148.
Marion County Seminary, 153,
158.
Marion Guards, 161.
Marion Eifles, 161.
Markle, Abraham, 312, 315, 332.
Marshall, Joseph Glass, 63, 65,
66, 70.
Masons, 207.
Massachusetts, 29.
McAfferty, Mr., 273.
McBaker, Col. Thomas, 161.
McCarthy, Gen. Jonathan, 87.
McCarty, Nicholas, 186.
McClelland, Alexander, 365.
McCormiek, John, 143.
McCuen, Eev., 139.
McGaughey, Arthur, 282.
McMaster, Eev. B. D., 70.
McMillan, Mr., 63.
Means, Thomas, 116.
Menominee Village, 203.
Merrill, Miss, 148, 149.
Merrill, Samuel, 146, 151, 166.
Methodists, 8, 12, 232.
Miami Mills, 44.
Miami Eiver, 33, 34, 40, 43.
Michigantown, 200.
Michigan Eoad, 85, 119, 192, 195,
196, 201, 234.
Mile Square, The, 144.
Military Eeservation, The, 150.
Miller, George, 273.
Milligan, Thomas, 277.
Milk sickness, 140, 141.
Mills, Caleb, 275, 276, 277.
Mill, The Tunnel, 84.
Milroy, Gen. Samuel, 235.
Minister, the Universalist, 93,
94, 96.
INDEX
387
Minor, Rufus, 325.
Mississippi, 22, 24.
Modesitt, Dr., 316, 317.
Montgomery, Col. Richard, 268
Montgomery County, 268.
Monticello, Va., 106.
Mont Clair, 341, 354, 355.
Moore, Frederick, 273.
Moot Legislature, The, 236.
Morerod, Mr., 51.
Morgan, Mr. James, 96.
Morris, John D., 163.
Morris, Morris, 186.
Morris, T. A., 148, 161, 162, 187.
Morrison, Roljert, 51.
Morrison, W. H., 186.
Moselle, 17.
Mounds, Indian, 31.
Mount Jackson, 172.
Mount Pleasant, 358.
"Movers," 262, 263, 264, 265.
Muscattatuck, 74, 84.
Muskingum, 29,
Nance, Clement, 366.
Nance, Weslev, 297.
National Road, The, 115, 134,
143, 196, 296, 301, 312.
New Albany, 51, 361, 370.
New Albany Seminary, 370.
Newbury, Mr., 279.
New Harmony, 97, 106, 107, 114.
New, Hickman, 84.
New, Jethro, 84.
New, Rev. John B., 78, 84.
"New Lights," 109.
Newman, John D., 116, 122.
New Orleans, 21, 25, 28, 34.
Newport, Ind., 124, 132.
Newport, Ky., 37.
Newport Temperance Society,
132.
Nevron, Father, 371.
Nicholson, Mr., 273.
Noble, Charles T., 325.
Noble's Hole, 167.
Noble, Noah, 44, 101, 149, 183.
Noel^ Vance, 163, 190.
North Bend, 17, 39, 40.
Norton, Hon. Caroline, 251, 252.
Nowland, James B., 163.
Ohio Company, The, 29 (note).
Ohio County, Va., 22.
Ohio River, The, 19, 25. 27 43
361. '
Old Trail, The (Vinrennc« to
New Albany), 357.
O'Kane, Rev.', 155.
O'Neal, Hugh, 163, 184, 190.
Ordinance of 1787, The, 114.
Orr, Mr., 150.
Orth, Godlove S., 256.
Owen, Richard Dale, 200.
Owen, Robert Dale, 97, 104, 105,
106, 107, 113, 114, 116, 133.
169, 322.
Palmer, Ebcnezer, 279.
Palmer House, 155.
Palmer, Nathan, 153.
Palmer, Mr,, 207.
Paoli, 359.
Parke, Judge Benjamin, 297,
354.
Parroquet, 54, 224, '
Parsons, John; Introduction,
Note on, 378.
Parsons, Jonathan, 1, 133, 220.
Parsons, Dr. Thomas, 318, 326.
Patapsco River, 6,
Patterson, Elliott, 163.
Pattison, Mr., 36, 37, 368.
Patriot, 47, 48.
Paul, Colonel, 67 (note).
Paul's Spring, 67.
Pa.xton, Mr.,' 367.
Peabody, Dr. Ezra. 76, 78,
Pennington, Mr., 367.
"Pcnsacola, The," 19.
Pepper, Col. .Xbol. 210.
Percival, Dr. .lahoz, 44.
Perkins, S. E.. 121. 127.
Perry, John S., 296.
Pestalozzi, 107.
Petersburg, Va., 1.
Pettitt, Mr. John, 2.'>.'>, 256.
Phelps, Mrs. Lincoln, 6, 8, 2.1.
Philadelphia. :i3.
Philomath, 110.
Philomatli Kn.'yrlo|)C(liii. 111.
Pierce, Mr. .Martin L., 255.
Pigeon Roost Mnj-wicre, 282.
"Pike boya," 12.
INDEX
Pioneer cabin, 224.
Pioneer women, 224.
Pioneers, Labors of, 273.
1 Pittsburg, 19.
Planters, 21, 24, 25.
♦'Pleasure Garden, The," 160,
175, 186, 189, 190.
Plummer, Dr. John, 127.
"Pocahontas," a play, 169'.
Poe School, The, 131.
Pogue's Creek, 145.
Pogue, George, 143.
Pork packing, 34, 327.
"Porkopolis," 327.
Political Beacon, The, 46.
Pope, Mr., Steam Doctor, 189.
Portsmouth, O., 31.
Postillion, 10.
Potomac Creek, 2.
Pottawotamies, 202.
Powhatan House, The, 2.
Prairie House, The, 315, 316.
Prairies, 239, 259.
Pratt, Mr. D. D., 204, 205.
Presbyterians, 70, 149, 154.
Prices of commodities, in Lo-
gansport, 220; in Terre Haute,
321, 322.
Pritchett, Dr. John, 117, 119.
Proflfitt, George H., 322, 324,
346, 347.
Prophet, The, 86.
Putnamsville, 289, 294, 296.
Quaker gentleman, 12, 18, 24.
Quarles, William, 184.
"Eachel, A," 48.
Eaeger Spring, 362.
Eailroad, 2, 63, 271.
Ealston, Alexander, 144.
Eariden, James, 116, 122, 205.
Eay, James Brown, 100, 101,
102, 142, 373.
Eaysville, 138.
Eea, Mr. and Mrs. George, 117.
Eeed, Dr., 317.
Eeligious Debate, 97.
"Eeport of a Geological Eecon-
naissance of Indiana," 200.
Eevolutionary soldiers buried at
Vernon, 85.
Ehein, Mr., 241.
Eichards, Joseph, 335, 336.
Eichland Furnace, 334.
"Eichland, The," 334.
Eichmond, Va., 1.
Eichmond and Brookville Canal,
128.
Eichmond, Ind., 99, 105, 106,
114, 120, 130.
Eichmond Station, 131.
Eights of Women, 113.
Eising Sun, 46.
Eising Sun Insurance Company,
47.
Eising Sun Tavern, 361.
Eistine, Maj. Henry, 273.
Eistine, Jr., Henry, 279.
Eoad, The National, 115, 134,
143, 196, 296, 301, 312.
Eoads, 60.
Eobb, Franklin, 279.
Eoberts, Bishop, 284.
Eobinson, Mr. George, 66.
Eobinson, Mrs., 370.
Eobinson, Simeon, 84.
Eose, Chauncey, 315, 333, 334.
Eoss, Henry, 325.
Eowan, Henry, 116.
Eudisill, David, 282.
Eussell, Alexander, 161, 164,
165.
Enter, Calvin, 285.
Sailor, Mr. John, 128.
Saint Francis Xavier Church,
345, 352.
Saint John's Church, 240, 241.
Saint Mary's Academy, 351.
Saint Mary 's of the Knobs, 371.
Salem, 70.
Salisbury, 135.
"Salt rising," 14.
Sample, Henry T., 255.
Sanders, Dr. John, 167.
Sanders, Miss Mary, 167.
Sanders, Miss Zerelda (Mrs.
David Wallace), 168, 190.
"Sawyers," 25.
Schools, 276.
Scott, Lucius, 323.
Scribner, Abner, 363.
Scribner, Joel, 363.
INDEX
Scribner, Nathaniel, 363.
, Scribner, Mrs. Abner, 370.
Scribner, Mrs. Joel, 370.
Scribner, Mrs. Phoebe, 370.
Secrist, Mr. Henry, 283.
Seminary, Female, (Mrs.
Phelps'), 6, 22.
Seminary, Greensburg, 96.
Seminary, Logansport, 206.
Serenade, 68.
Sering, John S., 63, 73.
Sheets' pasture, 166.
Sheets, William, 186.
Shelbyville, 85.
Shields, Mr. H. B., 366.
Shields, James, 367.
Shields, Patrick, 366.
Shields, Dr. P. S., 367.
Shields, William H., 282.
Shields, Mrs., 370.
Shipbuilding on Ohio, 29*.
Shires House, 37 (note).
Shirk, Andrew, 102, 103.
Sigourney, Mrs., 69, 81, 170.
Silver HiUs, 361.
Simpson, Dr., 293, 294.
Sims, Madison, 173.
Singleton, Augusta, 3.
Slavery, Negro, 12, 114, 295.
Sloan, Dr. John, 367.
Sluyter, Mr., 203.
Smith, Oliver H., 182, 183.
Smock, Mr., 297.
Snakes, 230.
Soap making, 80.
Soule, Bishop, 369.
Society of Friends, 12, 114, 129,
130, 131.
"Song of Jim Crow," 323.
Sparks, 46.
Spencer Spiers, 87.
"Spirit of Seventy-Six, The,"
323.
Square, The Governor's, 144.
Stage Coach passage, 11, 287,
288.
Stapp, Milton A., 59.
State College, 60, 149.
State House, 147.
State Library, 147, 178
Starr, Charles W., 127.
Steamboats, 2, 17 19 20 "5 "8
29, 39, 71, 72, 328, 329! ' " '
Steveuaon, Dr. A. C, 283
Stewart, Dr., 367.
Stewart, Dr. James, 236, 237.
Stillwcll, Jeremiah, 273.
Stitt, John B., 116, 117.
Stockton, Lawrence B., 255.
Stockton's Line, 8.
Storey, Thomas J., 84.
Stoy,' Peter, 367.
Stuart, William Z., 207.
Sugar Creek, 268.
Summerfield's Sermons, 57.
Swain, Dr. Ricliard IL, 119.
Swift, Flower, 297.
Swiss settlers, 51.
Symmes, Judge, 40.
Taber, Mr., 217.
Tait, Mr., 46.
Talbott, Henry T., 96.
Talbott, James, 283.
Talbott, William E., 282.
Taniiehill's History of Litera-
ture, 216.
Tarkington, John S., 130 (note).
Tarkington, Rev. Joseph, 130.
Taverns, 13, 98.
Temperance Society, 115, 132.
Tennessee Path, 28.
Tennis, Dr. Israel, 119.
Terre Haute, 18, 311-330.
Test, Judge, 96, 116, 117.
Theater, 28, 34, 37.
Thespian Society of Logansport,
219.
Thibaud, Mr., 51.
Thickstun, Andrew, :\M.
Thompson, Rev. Jamen, L'HL
Thompson, Richard W., 340.
Thomson, Mr. John M.. 277.
Thornburgh. Cnpf. W. H., 2S3.
Thornton, Major Henry P., 307.
Tides of immij^rntion, IIM.
Timber (Jennings County), 7».
Timmons, Ezekiel, 241.
Tippecanoe, 42.
Tippecanoe Battleground, 82, 86,
87, 162, 207.
Tippecanoe County, 00, 239.
Tippecanoe River, 238.
390
INDEX
Tipton, Gen. John, 206, 207.
Tipton, Mr. S. S., 207.
"Tortesa the Usurer," 37.
Tousey, Mr,, 46.
Townsend, James, 294, 295, 296.
Tucker, Judge, 53.
Tuley, Preston F., 367.
Tunnel Mill, 84.
Turpie, David, 241.
Turpie, Mary, 241.
"Twelve Mile Purchase, The,"
115.
Tyler, Mr. Ned and Mr. Jack,
Union, 11.
Union County, 109.
Universalist Church, 47, 110.
Universalist, The, 48, 139.
University Square (Indianapo-
lis), 153.
University, The (Virginia), 22,
47, 182, 298.
Usher, Mr., 301, 325, 326.
Vaile, Mr. Eawson, 117.
Van Buren, 3, 5, 15, 16, 26, 66,
83, 94, 105, 126, 247, 272, 363.
Vance, David, 273.
Vance, Lawrence M., 160, 188.
Vandalia, 136.
"Valley of the Upper Wabash,
The" (Ellsworth), 240.
Vawter, Elder Jesse, 58, 69, 70.
Vawter, Col. John, 58, 77, 81,
85, 87.
Vawter, Smith, 84.
Vawter, William, 80.
Vawter, Mrs. William, 80.
Vernon, 58, 74, 85.
Vevay, 46, 48, 50, 51.
Vigo, Col., 311, 354.
Vigo County, 311.
Vigus (stage line), 192, 193.
Vincennes, 42, 60, 179, 337, 356.
"Vincennes Gazette, The," 345.
Virginia, 18.
Wabash Ague, 76, 195.
Wabash bedstead, A, 263.
Wabash College, 268-278.
Wabash Country, 1, 15, 179, 193,
194, 205, 208, 222, 352, 353.
Wabash & Erie Canal, The, 204,
220, 238.
Wabash Eiver, 60, 61, 201, 204,
329.
Wabash Valley, 242, 243.
Wagoners, 13,' 16.
Walker, John, 84.
Wallace, Gov. David, 102, 147,
160, 166, 167, 168.
Wallace, Lewis, 168.
Wallace, William, 168, 169.
War, The Black Hawk, 163.
Warren, Chauncey, 331, 332.
Warren, Mr., 367.
Washington, D. C, 3.
Washington Hall, 141, 166, 187,
188, 281.
Washington, Ind., 358.
Washington, Pa., 11.
Washington Street, 143.
Way Bill, A, 73.
Wayne County, 115.
Wayne County Seminary, 128,
136.
Wea Plains, 239, 259', 261, 262.
Webb, William H., 63.
Webber, Dr., 236.
Webster, Daniel, 66, 363.
Wedding, Country, 226, 228,
Western settlements, classes in,
74; contrasts in, 112.
Western Union Seminary, 111.
Welker, Amos, 296.
Wesley, John, 57.
"Western Censor and Emi-
grant's Guide, The," 163.
"Western Tourist or Emi-
grant's Guide, The," 1.
Wheeler, Mr. John, 292.
Wheeling, 1, 10, 14, 18, 19, 23,
32
Whigs, 4, 15, 16, 18, 30, 65, 83,
98, 104, 141, 154, 323.
White, Albert S., 246, 247.
White House, 3.
White Eiver, 143.
Whitewater Canal, 35, 43, 99.
Whitewater Eiver, 97.
Whitewater Valley, 88, 130.
INDEX
391
Whitloek, Major, 273.
Whitman, Shepard, 365.
Whitney, E. J., 63.
Wick, Judge W. W., 187.
Wild hogs, 265.
"Wild Oats of Indianapolis,
The," 163.
* ' Wilberf orce, The Life of,"
126.
Wiley, Capt. Alexander, 165.
Wiley, E. S., 93.
Wiley, Rev. Allen, 186, 285, 302,
368, 369.
William and Mary College, 53.
Williams, Achilles, 127.
Williams, Worthington, 13, 296.
Wilmington, Ind., -iS.
Wilson, John, 271.
Wilson, Michael, 116.
Wilstach, Hannah, 241.
Winans, Brother, 97.
Winchester, 53.
Winter, George H., 208, U'ni*
210, 211.
Wirt, 69.
Wishard, Capt. John, 165.
Wise, John, 354,
Wise, of Virginia, Gov., 149.
Wolverton, Mrs., 362.
Wolves, 230, 231; wolf hunt,
264.
Woodruff, Charles, 366.
Wright, Williamson, 207.
Wylie, Dr. Andrew, 149, 216.
Xavier Church, St. Francii, 345,
352.
Yandes, Daniel, 159.
Yandes, Simon, 159, 181.
"Yellow Jackets," 87, 206.
Yellow Tavern, 98, 105.
Young Ladies' Seminary (Mad-
ison), 62, 63.