Toward the sunrise on "The Sunset" : the record of a journey in the land of sunshine

TOWARD THE SUNRISE
ON "THE SUNSET"

TOWARD THE SUNRISE
ON "THE SUNSET"

TOWARD

THE SUNRISE

ON "THE SUNSET"

THE RECORD OF A JOURNEY
IN THE LAND OF SUNSHINE
BY SIX AND A HALF TENDERFEET

WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED
BY ALL OF US TOGETHER

NEW YORK — PHILADELPHIA

PRIVATELY PRINTED AND NOT PUBLISHED AT ALL,
BECAUSE WE ARE ON VACATION

1903

Copyright, 1903, by as
Please keep off the grass

THE WORLD'S WORK PRESS
NEW YORK

TO

E. O. McCORMICK

JAMES HORSBURGH, JR.

WILLIAM McMURRAY

and all the good "Sunset" people who have made us
thrice blessed, this book by little-known husbands of
well-known wives is

DEDICATED

THE HAYSEEDS FROM THE EAST :

MR. and MRS. F. COIT JOHNSON, now first taking up the literary
life, known as The Gazelles ; MR. and MRS. EDWARD BOK, from
Philadelphia, and glad of it, known (Heaven knows why) as The
Lambs; MR. and MRS. FRANK N. DOUBLEDAY, hard-working,
industrious citizens, libeled as The Bears ; DOROTHY DOUBLEDAY, small
but A. D. G. s.

FOREWORD

THE trail of the Tenderfeet practically
ended its outgoing course at Santa
Barbara. After that it seemed to be
the homecoming, and we had steeled our
hearts to the fate of becoming simply the
regular hardworking, money-spending California
tourist.

This dreadful fear, however, was not fulfilled.
Even at Los Angeles strange and subtle influences
seemed to be at work in our favor. A very
gentlemanly Mr. Martin "called to pay his
respects," and to say that the State was ours,
transmitting this message from Mr. McCormick
and Mr. Horsburgh. When we left Los Angeles
he helped the Conservator put us on the train;
being no longer able-bodied men and women, we
had to be "tended and mended" day by day.
He introduced us to the conductor. At Santa
Barbara the mysterious influence from San
Francisco again made itself felt through Mr.
Shillingsburg, and we knew for sure that we were
again pampered and of the elect when Mr. Hors-
burgh turned up at Del Monte. Now we began
our journey "toward the sunrise on the sunset."*

*This phrase is copyrighted by the Heart to Heart
Department of The Ladies Home Journal.

STARTED FOR A NEW CORRAL

The long ride north from Santa Barbara to
Del Monte (Monterey) was a revelation of love-
liness, all the more appreciated because we were
in a measure unprepared for it. For miles we
skirted the Pacific, at times near the level of tide-
water, then high above the shore with the waves
breaking on a rugged coast far below ; then along a
wide stretch of fertile plains in process of tillage
with six, eight and ten-horse plows at work,
and snow-capped mountains in the background.
Later, the wonderful ride over, around and
through San Lucine Mountains, up

A GRADE OF 116 FEET TO THE MILE,

to the summit and then down the other side to
the northerly slope of the Coast Range, on by San
Miguel Mission, which we could plainly see from
the car windows and so to the Del Monte, where
we arrived in due course, or an hour or so after.
The paternal ancestor of our Lady Lamb, in
describing Del Monte, said something to the
effect that if Mr. Milton had been more farseeing
he might have migrated to this spot and found a
Paradise. The hotel is a mammoth caravansary,
well appointed and specklessly neat (thanks

4 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset "

to the indefatigable Chinese scrubbers), and situ-
ated amid a wealth of arboreal, semitropical luxu-
riance, the detailed description of which I will
leave to the virile and more accustomed pen of
the Lamb. The morning after our arrival we
started in horse-cars (soon to be trolleyized) for

THE GLASS-BOTTOMED BOATS,

and were fortunate in having for our boatman
a delightful Portuguese giant, an ex-whaler of
forty years' experience and the progenitor of nine
children.

He rowed us to the submarine gardens and we
were soon huddled beneath the black canopy,
exclaiming at the marvels beneath — gorgeously
colored and delicately tinted starfish, sea-
urchins, octopi, sponges, strange fish both great
and small, and flora of all sorts and shades. It
was all so clear and distinct that we began to feel
very much at home with the society beneath the
surface, quite in the swim, in fact; but we dared
not dally with old Neptune too long, for Mrs.
Gazelle began to feel qualms of — conscience (at
least, that is her version) ; so we went ashore and
walked to the bath-house — the best of its kind
yet. A delicious dip, a good luncheon and then —
ho ! for the golf course !

Perfect tees, springy fair greens, real turf and
putting greens, gave the men unusually good
sport ; though the surroundings were so picturesque
as to make it unusually difficult to focus attention
on the balls.

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 5
THE LADIES WORKED OUT THEIR SALVATION

more quietly, walking, resting, etc., though the
Lady Lamb and the little D. G. S. Bear had a
long and complicated session with the cypress
maze, having to call finally on two chivalrous
soldiers for release. Mr. Fred Johnson, an old
Norwich boy, joined us for the evening, which
was spent around the ping-pong table. Tired,
but joyous, we retired with more green verdure
for our collection.

THE TWENTY-EIGHTH DAY (March yth)

The second day at Del Monte, "the Beautiful"
(truly named), opened with the crack of the whip
as four shining bays and a "brake" dashed up to
the door to take the party over the famous
" Seventeen-Mile Drive. " The day was gloriously
sunny, the reins were in the safe hands of one
"William" (good whip and good gentleman),
and with the Gazelle on the box seat as coadjutor
the drive was on. Through the park grounds of
the Del Monte, into and through the quaint town
of Monterey,

PAST THE FIRST THEATRE IN AMERICA,

past the first Custom House on the Pacific
coast, then with a reminder of Uncle Sam in the
shape of a coloured cavalry encampment; along
the banks of the beautiful Bay of Monterey ; past
rocks freighted with bird life and into Pacific

6 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

Grove swept the horses and their charge. Then
the eyes of the party feasted, and souls rose higher
and life seemed sweeter as mile after mile of
beautiful grove swept by with its tapered pines,
its towering firs (which the Lady Gazelle's Grand-
mother Keeler remembered having seen when
they were little huckleberry bushes) pointing to
the sky ; past broken green vistas giving a dash of
blue water ; past the rocks whereon the seals basked
in the sun and shambled off into the water, until
all the glories of the ride culminated at Cypress
Point with

ITS GROVE OF SUPERB STORM-THRASHED
CYPRESS TREES,

and their hoods of velvet green. It is some-
thing to see one cypress, as sometimes we do, in
the East on some storm-beaten coast, but to see
scores, yes hundreds, one more beautiful in its
artistically misshapen formation than the other — v
that is a memory verily of cypress green. On
we went again, ten miles of the drive over, but
the other seven equally beautiful, until with a
suddenness all too soon in its coming we were
back in Monterey : back to the shops ; back to all
things stern and hard save the romantic walled-in
little home of the fair Senorita, in whose place
and with whom General Sherman planted a rose-
tree, which so appealed to the romantic soul of
the Lady Gazelle that she will always believe the
tale although angels may prove its falsity.

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 7
THE TWENTY-NINTH DAY (Sunday, March 8th)

Inclination and rain led the party to-day to
confine itself to the beauties of Del Monte, with
its gardens of 126 acres, in which the hands of the
landscape architect and the gardener have reached
their ripest skill, thirty separate gardens being
maintained at an annual cost of $40,000. It is

PRACTICALLY AN OLD-WORLD ESTATE IN AMERICA

with the trunks of gigantic trees clothed with ivy
of twenty-five years' growth; with rose-gardens
of every variety of rose known to the growers
of the world, and where 5,000 roses bloom at one
time; with a camellia garden; with an Arizona
garden filled with the cacti and growth of the
future State; with its rockeries; its tennis and
croquet courts; its sand-piles for children; its
lake; and lastly, but not leastly, its "maze" —
a cleverly constructed bewildering maze of paths
bordered with arbor vitae. Into this the ladies
wandered yesterday and reached the pivotal point
and found the exits without great trouble. But
the attempt of the men was not so successful.
So to-day the combined forces faced the problem,
and "they came, they saw, and they conquered."
But not until they had learned the combination
of keeping to the right upon entering and to the
left upon leaving — a solution easy enough to set
on paper but not so easy to follow in a succession
of paths.

8 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

After a feast of horticulture and arborculture,
the party set off to the haunts of " Boscoe,"

A NINE-MONTHS-OLD ClNNAMON BEAR

tied to a steel chain for the questionable amuse-
ment of the Del Monte' s guests and for the special
teasing proclivities of the children. Our Bear,
feeling a kindred spirit for one of his kind, brought
a box of sweetmeats and fed these delectable
indigestibles to his younger cinnamon brother,
much to the delight and satisfaction of both
Bears, although it seemed to the onlookers that
the cinnamon was more self-possessed and felt
more restful and seemed more at home than did
his black brother, although the latter was far
fleeter of foot.

And so the party spent a quiet Sabbath, full of
memories of "Del Monte the Beautiful."

THIRTIETH DAY (March Qth)

Sorrowfully, almost tearfully, the Tenderfeet
cast lingering glances backward toward lovely
Del Monte as the stage carried us for the last time
through those wonderful gardens of the best hotel
in California, where we fain would have roved for
a month. There are those in the party — who
shall be nameless — to whom

THE SIGHT OF "SADIE IN HER WAR-PAINT,"

on the way to take the same train with us, made
the agony of parting from our host, Mr. Reynolds,

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset'1 9

somewhat "less intense. " Indeed, it was for-
tunate that we were being personally conducted
by that pink of all proprieties, Mr. James
Horsburgh, Jr., Assistant General Passenger
Agent of the Southern Pacific, who arrived most
opportunely and showed some of us how to travel
in a straight path morally as well as geographi-
cally. The ladies gratefully resigned refractory
husbands into his safe keeping, and from this time
forth enjoyed some well-earned repose.

A four-in-hand coach which awaited our arrival
when the train reached Santa Cruz soon whirled
us away through the town and along its cliff
drive, which would have seemed far finer had we
not seen so recently those famous twelve miles
of water-front among the beautiful old flat-
topped cypresses, seal rocks and pine woods on the
opposite shore of Monterey Bay. But a new thing
under the sun was discovered on the Santa Cruz
beach: an engine worked by the rise and fall of
the waves in a deep, round well, cut in the solid
rock, through which the sea rushed with power
enough

To MERCERIZE ALL THE COTTON CLOTH

and print all the books and journals wanted by
a needy world. Therefore, why not move our
combined businesses to Monterey? We could
then show the influence of sea-power upon history
as Captain Mahan never dreamed of doing. The
inventor of this Santa Cruz well that works an
engine had no loftier object in view than a great

io Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

red tank into which is pumped water to sprinkle
the dusty roads.

After lunch at the hotel, the Tenderfeet climbed
into the coach for another memorable drive, this
time through a heavily wooded country watered
by many brooks that came tumbling and cascad-
ing out of verdant canyons into one real river in the
valley, far and ever farther below, for the road
was long and steep. Up and up went the heavy
coach, while the party exclaimed with delight at
every new height gained. Redwoods had pre-
dominated in the forests all along the drive,
redwoods such as we had met in other parts of
California. But here and there we began to see
trees that stood forth from among their fellows,
commanding attention by their size, great straight
shafts of noble height and girth towering upward
from the roadside to where their fine evergreen
needles formed a lacey canopy against the sky.
Silence fell upon the once talkative company in

THE PRESENCE OF CREATIONS so MAJESTIC

But not yet had we reached the grove of what are
known as "the big trees of Santa Cruz" to dis-
tinguish them from the Mariposa Grove. Before
reaching our destination we were to be tortured by
the sight of thousands of acres from which every
redwood of salable size had been cut, split and
perverted into cash to add yet another million
to the pockets of an already multi-millionaire.
"Breathes there a man with soul so dead?" we
wondered at the sight of the charred stumps of

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" n

fallen giants that were great trees when Rome
was mistress of the world. This slaughter of
aged Innocents still goes on in California (Oh, the
folly of it, in this arid State of all places !) where the
land is owned by lumber dealers and not reserved
by the Government or by men who find it more
profitable to charge an admission fee to tourists
like ourselves. But righteous anger against

THE RICH OLD SINNER WHO HAD DEVASTATED

this region melted after we crossed the line of his
vast possessions and entered his neighbor's
territory, where redwoods in all their primeval
grandeur still stood. No church or cathedral has
seemed to me so holy a place as this: never
have I felt so disposed to take the shoes from off
my feet as here in this grove of trees more ancient
than the Prophets — trees that were pushing their
way through the soil of an unknown continent
when Moses gave laws to the Children of Israel,
and live to-day as they were living then, in sinless
conformity with the divine law as no man save
One ever lived. Silent, majestic, serene they
stand, oblivious of years, oblivious of the rise of
empires and the fall of thrones, of discovery and
conquest, of the tyranny, passion, hate raging in
the hearts of men that came to people this very
land, their home; oblivious and silent as the
Sphinx of Egypt.

In the indescribably beautiful mellow twilight
of the forest we measured trees more than sixty feet
in circumference. We entered a hollow trunk
where all our party stood comfortably, and in

12 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

which General Fremont, the Pathfinder, once
made his camp. We saw

THE LARGEST GROUP OF TREES IN EXISTENCE

eighteen Sequoias from a common root which, no
doubt, once sprang from the stump of a fallen
giant, as is the habit of these well-nigh deathless
trees. We noted the luxuriant upper growth from
trunks that were merely hollow shells at their
base; we listened to the tales of a guide whose
chatter about statistics, dimensions and celebrities
who had visited the grove were as jarring to the
spirit in Nature's sublime sanctuary as the babble
of Cook's tourists in Westminster Abbey.

A brief ride on the rear platform of the narrow
gauge railroad train through a region of astonish-
ing beauty brought us to San Jos£, where Mr.
Shoup, of the Southern Pacific, stood ready to
act as Guardian- Angel-in-Charge. There was
still another four-in-hand coach drive before us,
this time through the miles of prune orchards
that furnish desserts for all the boarding-schools*
in the country. Prunes, apricots, cherries, pears,
sweet peas and other garden seeds by the train-
load are shipped from this garden spot of the
Santa Clara Valley to the effete East. Electric
lights, furnished by

POWER TRANSMITTED MORE THAN A HUNDRED
AND FIFTY MILES

seemed to us the most astonishing sight in the

*This is a joke. We are awfully tired of it. — J. H., Jr.

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 13

streets of San Jose. After seeing the new Car-
negie Library and other buildings, in which the
citizens take great pride, we begged to rest awhile,
at the Hotel Vendome, much to the disgust of the
Pink.

THIRTY-FIRST DAY (Tuesday, March loth)

After the utter weariness in which we had all
retired, it was a relief to awaken refreshed and
rejuvenated, for this was to be our "busy day"
with a vengeance. This was our telegraph invita-
tion, which came, we feel sure, at the suggestion
of Mr. Horsburgh:

SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA.

Frank N. Doubleday: Chamber of Commerce of San Jose"
invites yourself and party for carriage drive around San Jose"
and Santa Clara Valley. V. A. SCHELLER, President.

Coming from breakfast, we found a group of
delegates from the San Jos6 Chamber of Com-
merce awaiting us, and without wasting any time
we were tucked up cozily in automobiles and
whirled away to the tree-planting, for you must
know that this was Arbor Day in the Santa
Clara Valley. After a short run from town we
came upon a series of horny-handed sons of toil
wielding spades beside the way who were pointed
out to us as the prominent citizens ; and when our
machines drew up a little farther on, we were
quite in the spirit of the occasion, and felt that
we could not exist another minute without a spade.
The spots indicated and the trees placed, we
went to work. Each one dug the hole and

14 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset'1

planted the tree — this means the ladies and the
little D. G. S., mind you — only the fragile Gazelle
outfit making theirs a combination affair, and the
confession must be made that even so they were
glad of the kindly offices of a colored man hard
by who seemed to make the dirt fly in record
time, as theirs did not. Photographers were on
hand, as well as all the other inhabitants, both
great and small, and we cannot but believe that
the Bears and the Lambs will be shining examples
in the thriving, public-spirited city of San Jose
for many a long day. But even shining lights
must at last go out, so after the big Bear had
wiped the honest drops from his brow the proces-
sion moved. The same beautiful road went on
and on, and then began to climb the mountain
to the Lick Observatory, twenty-seven miles
away. We followed it well up in the world, where
we could get a superb view of one of the most
beautiful as well as the most fertile valleys in the
country — the Santa Clara. The beauty of the
acres and miles of prune trees just beginning to
blossom is as nothing, we are told, to that of the
summer season, when the sweet peas and other
seedsmen's favorites are in bloom.

Coming down the mountain again we were
taken around the foot of it to Alum Rock Park,
where, at the spring, our conductors, Messrs.
Mathews and Hayes of the Chamber of Commerce,
invited us to partake of refreshments — sulphur,
soda and pure water. Then, after a flying glimpse
of the aviary and baths, we were again whirled
away, soon, however, to stop long enough to throw

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset " 15

a rope to one of the two Olds machines in the
party, and in this familiar, hackneyed style we
descended upon the great Flickinger Company's
orchard and cannery, where the Mr. Graham in
charge did his best to ruin our appetites with his
delicious peaches and plums. However, when
we were presently deposited at the Vendome we
managed to toy with our luncheon in our usual
generous fashion, and then took the train for
Palo Alto, conducted by Mr. Horsburgh, our big
Bear having hurried on ahead to obtain a
much desired interview with Doctor Jordan, the
President of the Leland Stanford University.
On our arrival at the little village of Palo Alto
we were met by two pleasant young men, the
Messrs. McDowell, who did the honors, and showed
great pride in their Alma Mater, as well they
might, for it is a stupendous conception and won-
derful work. It will take many years to carry
out all the plans and tone down the effects to the
perfection point, but the foundation is here and
a great future before it. A hurried visit was paid
to the different buildings and a few quiet moments
spent in the new church — a memorial to Senator
Stanford by his wife, where the beauty of each
detail almost detracted from the whole; an
$80,000 copy in mosaic of Leonardo Da Vinci's
"Last Supper," for instance, was hardly to be
seen for other altar decorations. The mosaic
work all over the church was very wonderful, but
its effect was marred, I thought, by the more
vivid coloring of the stained glass windows,
beautiful though they were, while the all-seeing

1 6 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset11

eye of giant size in the dome was more than dis-
concerting. On the whole, however, the present
recorder, being a very common-place sort of
person, enjoyed the church, especially the rose-
window over the entrance. We all met Doctor
and Mrs. Jordan and a visiting Oxford professor,
and then drove about Mrs. Stanford's place,
besprinkled with mausoleums, weeping angels,
and monuments of many kinds. Our Gazelle, in his
disrespectful, irreverent way, says she is a " bang-
up mourner," when she runs short of relatives
she plants reindeer and mastiffs and very many
sphinxes about her door-yard. A monument
more, and a turn of the road leads us through a
wealth of sweet violets, then a covey of California
quail, and we soon reach the ball-ground, where
the faculty are playing one of the fraternities.
In an instant our men are boys again, and it
takes a firm and steady hand to pilot them away
to the station, where the iron steed soon rushes
in, and an hour and a half later we find ourselves
in San Francisco, being trolleyed to the Palace
Hotel. A speedy but delicious supper was soon
forthcoming, and with highly colored visions
of Chinatown to spur us on we started afresh,
this time with Mr. Glennon, an ex-detective with
a record of fourteen years in this foreign quarter,
to pilot us. After a glimpse of Nob Hill we
made a flying tour of Sing Fat's, the great Chinese
emporium, then past numberless queer little
shops selling all sorts of queer little things, then
to an opium joint where the disgusting smoking
process was seen in operation, and then — oh, then,

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset " 17

to the Chinese theatre ! Going in by the main
entrance, we found the crowd of Chinamen too
dense to make our way through, so Mr. Glennon
took us around to the stage entrance, and then
we went down, down through long, underground
passages where the actors live — for you must know
that they are ostracized and despised by the
community about them, and live as a class apart.
Passing through the greenroom filled with actors
painting, robing and bewhiskering themselves,
we are given chairs at one side of the stage where
both the performance and audience are before us.
Every bench and every aisle were filled, and
Chinamen were standing three or four deep right
up to the stage. At the back sat the musicians,
with their three or four fiendish instruments
clanging away incessantly; in the centre was the
stage manager, with a window-frame affair which
seemed to comprise the scenery, all changes being
denoted by little signs which he would unroll
and hang from this frame from time to time.
All the parts are taken by men, the salary of those
impersonating women depending upon the closeness
of their mimicry of voice and actions, a sort of
lackadaisical stoicism resulting that is very ludi-
crous. The sea of faces before us was quite as
interesting as the stage performance ; the absorp-
tion of the audience was complete, and absolutely
no notice whatever was taken of the ' 'foreign
devils," as they call Americans. The nerves of
some of us were crying aloud, so the word was given
to move on, to the sorrow of the Lady Gazelle,
who would have dearly loved to stay to the finish,

1 8 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset11

which might be next week or possibly next month.
Stopping a moment on the other side of the stage,
where a view could be had of the women's gallery
— for the women are on too low a plane to sit with
their mighty masters — we followed again the little
narrow, stuffy passages, all reeking with opium,
to the blessed open air, and started for the joss-
house. On the way we heard peculiar bangs and
slams and thuds on all sides, which, it was ex-
plained, was the sound of doors closing at the
''gentlemen's clubs," or gambling dens, which were
all about us, heavy iron doors with mighty springs
shutting them in, and all visitors being inspected
through a small grating at the side. The joss-
house was interesting with its incense and idols,
but as the wee sma' hours were approaching and
our Baby Bear was yawning we hurried on to a
restaurant where the natives were dexterously
manipulating the chop-sticks at their midnight
meal. A cup of tea and some candied fruits and
nuts fortified us for our walk home, and we
turned in with the complacent consciousness that
for one day at least we had followed the example
of the "busy bee" of our childhood, for we surely
had "improved each shining hour."

THE THIRTY-SECOND DAY (March nth)

The first day in San Francisco very properly
began with a visit to the Southern Pacific Railroad.
The Zoo descended, en masse, on Mr. E. O.
McCormick, Passenger Traffic Manager of the
road, and it lost its collective heart, there and

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 19

then, to that Chesterfieldian gentleman. As the
call progressed we were so much impressed with
the quiet force which seemed to emanate from
the Powers That Be that discussion and ques-
tionings began. We were then shown some of
their advertising work, which is as interesting as
it is instructive; their pamphlets and literature
showing the wonders of California from the
glories of the big trees to the amazing possibilities
of the one-acre farm, upon one of which a man
and wife supported themselves and cleared $400
in one year. Even nature-study primers are
provided to schools, with tree cones and tree
seeds, and perhaps the most unique article given is

A TAPE AS MANY FEET IN LENGTH

i

as the circumference of the Grizzly Giant, the
use of which is surely an impressive object lesson.
The motive back of all seems to be the glorifica-
tion of their wonderful State, a State which
offers health and golden opportunity to all who
will come.

Mr. McCormick was bent on our seeing the
Yosemite and the Kings' River Canyon, which he
said was twenty-six miles wide, four hundred and
thirty-six miles long, and painted like a bouquet.
The big trees of the Mariposa Grove we yearned
for, but even the Passenger Traffic Manager had
to admit to eight feet of snow in the forest, and
this he felt was too much for tenderfeet.

We were then taken in charge by one Dianthus
Elegans (perhaps more commonly known as the

20 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

" Pink") and driven to the Cliff House for lunch-
eon, passing first through the thriving, prosperous-
looking business section, then through the resi-
dence part of the city, with its broad, well-paved
streets, bordered on each side with homes that,
on Nob Hill, are palaces. We went on through
the Presidio, where our soldiers live in a veritable
park, and on past forts that bristled with guns,
until we came to a bluff where the San Francisco
Bay lay before us, with

ITS GOLDEN GATE LEADING OUT

to the great ocean beyond. An enemy must be
fearless indeed who would try to force an entrance
there. Across the bay are the mountains sloping
down to its edge, and in the harbor are Govern-
ment islands where are guardhouse, prison, etc.
We saw all this when the sky was slightly over-
cast and everything was softened in tone to a
silvery tint of pearl. The bay, with its splendid
mountains on one side and the busy city on the
other, with that glorious sloping of soft-colored
rock on each side of Golden Gate, gave us a
stirring impression of the beauty and strength
of this wonderful harbor.
As luncheon was served in

THE TOWER ROOM OF THE CLIFF HOUSE,

which latter is at the ocean's edge, we were able,
between courses, to watch the seals on the rocks
below, and were much interested in seeing the

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 21

new Pacific mail steamer Siberia start off on
her maiden journey to China and Japan.

Before mounting our brakes we went to the
Sutro baths, which are perhaps the largest swim-
ming tanks in America, and then drove back to
the city through its very beautiful park. We
found here a perfect wealth of flowers and trees,
with fine roads winding through for a distance of
five miles. These oiled roads are a soft brown
color, forming a combination with the surrounding
green that is wonderfully pleasing and restful
to the eye. To the right of the park is a great
bank of shifting sand stretching to the ocean,
and we learned to our amazement that this park
was originally part of that sand bank — void of any
sign of vegetation. Every particle of soil in the
park to-day has been carted from many miles
away, and every tree, flower and blade of grass
was brought from a distance and planted there.

The next step was mountainward, as we were
to spend

THE NIGHT ON MOUNT TAMALPAIS,

2,597 feet above the sea. We crossed the bay
by ferry, took a train, and, by changing once,
started off up the mountain climb in the twilight
on the "crookedest railroad in the world." The
engine pushed us up, and the Lamb played
engineer for a time. The moon came up and
revealed the depth of the forest beneath us while
we climbed; and as we approached the summit
the glimpses which we had of the ocean, the bay and

22 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

the twinkling city away below us, were so beautiful
that fatigue fled and we felt conscious of the rest
and limitless quiet, and that only. Several
members of the city's Bohemian Club were with
us, and Mr. Runyon. our host, an official of the
road, our friends, Mr. McMurray and the Pink. So
it was a big and merry company that sat down to
dinner at 8:30 p. M. in the tavern on top of the
mountain. Most of the party, before retiring,
went out for a walk, and declared the moonlight
view to be one of surpassing beauty. There were
others who, knowing that an early hour had been
set for rising in the morning, were sensible enough
to go early to bed — minus moonlight. But can a
leopard give up his spots? Or a Philadelphian
his sleep?

THIRTY-THIRD DAY (March i2th)

Properly, this day was to begin at six in the
morning, before the sun had time to get up the
mountain, where we had spent the night, as
recounted by the ewe Lamb; but, unhappily, a
cloud of mist and rain permitted the "celestial
orb," as the Gazelle would say, to sneak into
the world unbeknownst while we still slept. The
manager of the hotel called us ; not, as promised,
but by eight some of the clouds had cleared away
and we could see from the splendid height the
topography of the Golden Gate, the towns of
Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda and San Francisco
itself.

To the present writer there seems hardly any
doubt that the animals of this Zoo are gifted with

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 23

a temperament which nothing can spoil, because
here again we were treated with a distinction
which is the right of only presidents and kings,
and yet we remained the modest, unassuming
and gentle natures so earnestly advocated by
that peerless magazine, The Ladies' Home Journal.
The train down the mountain was scheduled to
leave at 7:30 A. M., but what are time-tables to
the Zoo? The Lamb uttered his first faint bleat
at 7 130, so the train was held up until 8 130, and
then used as a baggage wagon while we descended
on a hand-car controlled by our host, Mr. Runyon.
Down these eight miles we dropped 2,500 feet,
around the double bow-knot spot, over beautiful
gorges, through wonderful cuts, around the side
of the mountain, doubling, twisting and turning,
no portion of the track being straight for more
than 400 feet. We stopped now and then at
some particularly beautiful place, and the Bear
was sent to gnaw off the branch of some flowering
tree. When we finally arrived at the bottom we
wanted, like children, to do it all over again. It
seemed as though we must have failed to see some
of the beauties.

All but the Bruins stopped at the ferry-house,
which is truly a marvelous creation, an eighth of
a mile long or so, with a tower like a slender finger
pointing upward. Here all the railroads come
into the city across the bay from the mainland.
Here there is also maintained an exhibition of all
the products of California, where the elect may
feast their eyes and stimulate their imaginations,
for of such is the Golden State.

24 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

The Bear family spent an hour with Mrs.
Frank Norris. Later the gentlemen of the party
rallied around the Bohemian Club, where a
luncheon was given to us, including Mr. Wilson,
of whom Mr. Runyon, of the Crookedest Railway
in the World, was sole proprietor, having created
him out of nothing. He confused the name of
F. Coit Johnson with James H. Wilson, and when
one considers the marked similarity, this trifling
error seems natural. Mr. Wilson behaved in so
quiet and exemplary a manner that the Gazelle
had no cause to be ashamed of him.

The myriads of readers to whom these lines are
addressed may possibly have noticed that when
this writer is put to it to describe some marvel
of nature, some gigantic wonder like the Grand
Canyon, thirteen miles wide, 218 miles long and
painted like a flower, some surpassing example of
manly beauty like the Pink of Perfection, he
avers with that modesty for which he is not up
to the present well known, that it baffles the
efforts of the Waterman pen; and so in this case
his hopeless inability to describe this luncheon is
borne in on him. The table was round and as
large as a section of one of the great redwoods;
there were peach branches in blossom as decora-
tion, and violets strewn about in graceful pro-
fusion. Fifteen or sixteen members gave us
welcome. Of all their names I can set down but
few. There was the president of the club, Mr.
Deering; Mr. C. M. Field, the secretary, and a
nephew of the Daniels of New York; Mr. E. O.
McCormick, who for a few hours took his hands

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset'1 25

off the Southern Pacific throttle; Mr. Aiken,
the editor of the Sunset Magazine; and another
Mr. Aiken, a sculptor; Mr. Porter, an old friend
of Frank Norris ; Lieutenant Rowland, who gave
the Lamb a superb mahogany desk because he
expressed an interest in it; Mr. Alexander
Robinson, a bookseller, who had been stuck by
Doubleday, Page & Company's books and bore
no grudge; Ernest Peixotto, the illustrator;
Mr. Charles Keeler and many others, who puffed
our pride by treating us as though we were
cabinet ministers at the very least.

I could go on and on telling of this luncheon,
the calls afterward, accompanied by a friendly
escort, who stopped business while we were
attended to, but I'm not allowed to write the
whole book.

THIRTY-FOURTH DAY (Friday, March i3th)

Lucky day for California, for it poured cats
and dogs, though Mrs. Bear more truly and
poetically described it as a golden rain ; and in
fact such a wetting, at this season, means
untold wealth to the State. It was our last
full (full is the word) day in San Francisco,
and we were up and at it betimes, assorting our-
selves into different groups as our necessities
required, or as our guide, philosopher and Pink
directed. Some of us did a little business, though
we learned that the Bear did most, if not all, the
booksellers. Then, while the ladies shopped
(and good shopping they say it was), the men

26 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

visited the plant of the Sunset Press, controlled
by Mr. Howard Tibbitts, which puts into artis-
tically illustrated form magazine, railroad and
other kinds of descriptive literature, their photo-
graphic work being especially fine. At twelve
we all met at the studio of William Keith, the
Corot of America. A great artist, we all agreed,
and wondered why we of the East had heard so
little of him. He is a picturesque figure, with a
leonine head and mane; apparently more than
seventy, but his best work has been done in the
past six years, and he appears to be now at the
acme of his vigor and power as an artist. The
Bears were obliged to hurry away to keep a lunch-
eon engagement with Mrs. Frank Norris, and the
remainder of the party returned to the hotel for a
frugal repast, after which more shopping and then
another round-up at the Presbyterian Mission for
Chinese slave girls, where we were met by Mrs.
Horsburgh, the sister-in-law of our friend ; and one
of the managers. This society is doing good work,
under the direction of Miss Cameron, who has
passed through many thrilling experiences in
her rescue raids. Here we saw all sizes, from
cunning wee almond-blossom babies to girls of
marriageable age, which is from fourteen to
sixteen years. They delight in music, and their
pretty part songs, which were accompanied on
the piano by one of the older girls, were in marked
and pleasing contrast to the discordant jangles
we heard two nights before at the Chinese theatre ;
and their proficiency in naming in order the
books of the Bible put us to shame.

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 27

Parting calls on some of our new friends were
followed by a dinner at the Poodle Dog, the
French restaurant in vogue; after which, tired
and jaded, we repaired to the hotel to pack,
preparatory to leaving on No. 4 at eight o'clock
the next morning

Hardly had we started on this work, however,
when the Pink arrived with the welcome news
that he had secured places for us on the " Over-
land Limited," leaving at 10 A. M., and due at
Ogden six hours earlier than No. 4. Im-
mediately "that tired feeling" left us, and we
settled ourselves for a "quiet English evening
at home," with Mr. Horsburgh to help us forget
that this was the eve of our departure from
California.

THE THIRTY-FIFTH DAY (March i4th)

To-day the thought was of home and children.
The trip was practically over and the homeward
journey was to begin. So with the Gazelle
wearing his most artistic amber-colored Budd
shirt, the Bear showing the tallest collar ever seen
in San Francisco, and the Pink, in the very
flower of condition, showing a new and beautiful
plum-colored cravat, the party started for the
Oakland Ferry to take the Overland Limited.
The gulls of San Francisco Bay followed the
ferry-boat to flap their good-by to the departing
Tenderfeet and incidentally to pick up the break-
fast rolls thrown over to them by our friend of
quiet force, Mr. McMurray, who, considerate to

28 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

the last, followed the Tenderfeet to the train.
Then came that moment of joy that always
accompanies the prospect of material comfort
when it was discovered that the combined
McCormick-Horsburgh-McMurray forces had pro-
vided a private stateroom for each pair of the
party — the last (we thought) but not the least
touch of Southern Pacific courtesy. Then came
the firm grasp of hand that tells so much more
than words of thanks as we said "au revoir but
not adieu" to the Pink and the Man of Quiet
Force. Our friends of days had gone, but not
their thoughtful courtesies. "Godspeed them,"
said we, and then the train was off, and our faces
were turned to the East — effete, yes, but HOME !
Along the edge of San Francisco Bay sped the
train, then through the beautiful green-clad
Sacramento Valley, from whence come the
earliest cherries, peaches and apricots in the
State, and in such quantities that from each of
these stations it is not an uncommon event to ship
a trainload of forty-five fruit-laden cars each
day. The electric light here is generated on the
Yuba River, transmitted through the towns of
the valley, giving power of lighting, manufac-
ture, trolley, reaching Oakland, 145 miles distant,
where it supplies the entire town, this long-
distance transmission being at a loss of less than
five per cent. The water from the Yuba River
is taken up in ditches and dropped into turbines
through pipes, picked up by smaller companies
and again used for generating electricity; after
which the same water is taken up by ditch com-

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 29

panies and sold to farmers for irrigating purposes,
and likewise for domestic and drinking purposes.
Busy water, forsooth !

Soon the train glided easily onto the deck of
the largest ferry-boat in the world, the Solano,
which has a carrying capacity of two locomotives
and a train of forty freight cars loaded with
twenty tons of freight to the car. At noon, when
the train reached Sacramento, we were destined
once again to feel "the touch that makes the
whole world kin" in the shape of huge bunches
of superb violets sent by Mr. McCormick — truly
a fragrant remembrance of the giver. Almost
simultaneously came the Pullman porter stag-
gering under three huge bundles of Southern
Pacific literature sent by the Pink — enough to keep
the entire party engrossed to their destination.

At one o'clock the air began to chill, the grass
became a little less green, and the trees began to
lose their luxuriant foliage. The realization was
forced upon the party that it was nearing the line
between the land of fruit and flowers and the
land of snow and ice. Soon the snow-peaked
Sierra Nevadas came into sight. Suddenly
Caporn burst into view, with its canyon depth of
1,000 feet, its vista of sixty-five miles, its superb
reaches of evergreen glades — a panorama of
majesty and grandeur such as fills the eye and
soul with wonder and silence — and the heart of
the painter and writer with despair.

On went the two powerful engines up that
wonderful ascent, where a height of 7,000 feet is
attained in 85 miles, each succeeding vista seem-

30 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

ingly more impossible of description than the last.
Silently on the back platform of the observation
car sat the Tenderfeet, only the Lady Gazelle purr-
ing with romantic feelings as she passed tree after
tree laden with the growth of mistletoe, the
sparkle of the happy brown eyes revealing her
thoughts of the possibilities of such immense
quantities of the parasite. But even mistletoe
must give way to snow, and with a sigh that spoke
louder than words the Lady Gazelle sought the
seclusion that her stateroom afforded.

Then came what, to the chronicler, seemed
the most surpassing view of all — the American
River Canyon, particularly effective at the
moment of seeing it, with a bank of clouds
graying the sky in the foreground and clothing
the mountain tops with a vapory mist, while far
away through the distant gorge — cutting the
mountain in two — the horizon was illumi-
nated with a glowing amber reflection of the
dying day. Deep down in the ravine ran the
tracery of the river like a network of lace, while
over the mountainsides tumbled the cascades of
the melting snows. It was a picture seen at a
Bierstadt or Moran hour.

Slowly but surely was the varied scene of this
wonderful ride changing. Only fifteen minutes
back and the track was hedged by blossoming
almond trees. Now patches of snow became
more frequent, until exactly twenty-two minutes
by the watch had elapsed from the last orange
tree filled with golden fruit to the evergreen tree
laden with its mantle of white snow. The scene

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 31

of green had changed to a scene of white — one
as gloriously beautiful as the other, and yet how
different ! Still, we were in California, that State
of infinite variety, where within an hour's walk
one passes from summer to winter.

Flakes of snow now began to fall, and in
fifteen minutes we were speeding through a snow-
storm with three feet of snow on the level and
from eighteen to thirty feet in the drift. And
all within the hour ! It seemed to us as if by
magic a white curtain had been let down to
shut out the Valley of Sunshine, of Flowers and
of Fruit. Truly, we were in the midst of winter.
And as if to remove the slightest doubt from
the mind of the wonderful transformation
scene, we ran into the great Southern Pacific
snowsheds, built like storied sheds down the
mountain and over the track, forty miles long
and constructed at certain points at a cost
of $150,000 per single mile. To protect
these valuable sheds from forest fires or loco-
motive sparks, a signal tower has been erected
by the company, wherein is always stationed a
lookout, scanning the vast reach of snowsheds
with a telescope. A single snowfall means at the
point of these sheds from eight to fifteen feet,
often covering a two-story house, and aggregating
during a winter a fall of eighty-six feet of snow.
For two hours we ran through snowsheds, catch-
ing glimpses of the white-mantled gorges beyond
through the slatted sides of the sheds. Like
green sentinels on carpets of white stood miles
after miles of pines, until at eight o'clock, after

32 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

riding ten hours, the train crossed the line and
we were in Nevada.

We had left California behind — the State which
for four weeks had made history in the minds and
lives of the Tenderfeet, and where they had found
the natures of men and women as golden as the
fruits in their orchards, where hospitality is as
fragrant as the flowers which clothe their homes,
and where hearts are as large as the redwoods
of their cathedral groves.

And so, with memories green and hearts swell-
ing, the Tenderfeet closed their first day on the
final lap of the journey.

TOWARD SUNRISE ON "THE SUNSET"

and just as we were going to bed, this telegram
was delivered to us by the conductor, showing
that we were still in the mind of our host.

SAN FRANCISCO, 3, 14, '03.
F. N. DOUBLEDAY (c. o. Cond'r No. 2) :

Trust the Bears, the Lambs and the Wilsons have spent
delightfully their last day in the Golden State. As you
cross the line, take California's greetings. Come again soon.

JAS. HORSBURGH, JR.

THIRTY-SIXTH DAY (March i5th)

When the Tenderfeet awoke on this Sunday
morning and looked out from their berths, the
glorious Sierras had been left far behind and a
dreary, desolate, arid, treeless region stretched
in all directions as far as eye could see. No one
was surprised to hear that the population of the

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 33

entire State of Nevada is only 42,000. The
wonder is that any one would deliberately choose
to live there with the paradise of California lying
just across its border.

BUT SILVER MINES TEMPT MEN

as readily as gold, and since all cannot be silver
kings and buy Senators' seats and palaces in
Washington, the disappointed ones mine the
lesser minerals or become sheep-herders. Here
and there was seen a little group of Shoshone
teepees in the distance, or a prairie schooner
laboring across the windy plains, a smokepipe
projecting above its canvas roof, a side of beef or
mutton hanging from the rear, and with four, six
or even eight horses and mules pulling the travelers
toward what, let us hope, is a happier home than
seems possible in this forlorn land. Such settle-
ments as we passed in Nevada, and after the Utah
line had been crossed, consisted of a few unpainted
houses huddled together close beside the railroad
track, with saloons for their most imposing
edifices and

A CYCLONE CELLAR IN EVERY BACK YARD

More attractive only because they were more
picturesque were the neighboring Chinese
settlements, which furnish the vegetables and
fruits to pioneers, who rarely take the trouble to
make gardens of their own. This is surely the
Wild West — the wildest, most unlovely part of

34 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

it we have yet seen. How exquisitely tinted
is the desert of New Mexico and Arizona, that
has a fascination indescribable, and how forbidding
the Great American Desert through which we are
glad enough to pass without once leaving the car !
We admit the marvelous achievements of the
men who settled Utah and made arid alkali
prairies produce prodigious harvests, since THE
WORLD'S WORK compels us to, but this Tenderfoot
is convinced that a State requires more than
agriculture and Mormonism to make it great.

From car windows we caught occasional
glimpses of the great Salt Lake and snow-covered
mountain peaks, the only truly beautiful objects
seen in Utah.

On reaching Salt Lake City two hours late, and
therefore too late to attend the afternoon services
in the great Mormon Tabernacle, the thoughtful
kindness of the Pink was again demonstrated.
He had asked three leading citizens to meet and
personally conduct us to the Tabernacle, where
Professor MacClellan waited long and patiently
to give us a special concert.

THE TABERNACLE Is REALLY A WONDERFUL
BUILDING

when one remembers what the desert must
have been in the early sixties, before a railroad
penetrated it. Wood had to be hauled by
ox-teams several hundred miles from canyons
in the mountains; nails cost seventy -five cents a
pound, and small panes of window-glass as much.

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 35

Yet the vast capsule seats more than eight thou-
sand people, and its rounded roof, like the side
walls, is nine feet thick. An unadorned capsule
it is, as plain within as a Quaker meeting-house,
for beauty is a thing unknown even now in Utah.
Seated in the gallery opposite the great organ,
we could distinctly hear a pin drop in the elders'
seats fully two hundred feet away.

A CHOIR OF FIVE HUNDRED

is seated at the right and left of the elders
during all services, but, unhappily, it had dis-
persed before we reached the Tabernacle. Pro-
fessor MacClellan displayed the powers of the
famous organ in a variety of selections, ranging
from "Tannhauser" to the "Andante," by
Mascagni, as one of our Mormon hosts called
what another host referred to as the "Ave
Maria "of "Cavalleria Rusticana. "

The Temple adjoins the Tabernacle, but no
polluted Gentile feet may tread its saintly aisles ;
so we hastened to our hotel to console ourselves
with dinner as best we might

THIRTY-SEVENTH DAY (March i6th)

After a refreshing night in civilized beds, the
Bears and Gazelles breakfasted together at a
reasonable hour, and then scattered to investigate
the chosen city of the Latter-Day Saints, while
our poor, tired Lambs, not having turned in until
the reckless hour of nine, enjoyed a tete-a-tete

36 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

repast at ten. All joined forces again at a twelve-
thirty attempt at luncheon, to be ready for
Mr. Savage, who was to conduct us to

AN INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT JOSEPH F. SMITH,

the present Prophet of the Mormon Church.
First we came to the Eagle Gate, which formerly
marked the entrance to Brigham Young's private
grounds, passing under which, as good luck would
have it, just as we arrived, came a little sweet-
faced old lady — "one of Brigham' s wives, " says Mr.
Savage, with bated breath. " There are only two
or three still living. " Next stands the famous
Beehive, the official residence of the President,
and between this and the Lion House, where
President Young lived with the major part of his
family in so-called peace and harmony, and
named from the lion couchant over the door,
stands a little old-fashioned building — the Presi-
dent's official headquarters. This we entered
and were given chairs in his office, when immedi-
ately a door opened and the Prophet was with us.
Tall and thin, with the venerable beard that seems
to mark the species, we could not but be impressed
by his dignity and sincerity of purpose, after
the interchange of customary civilities, by his
amiable recognition of the thirst for knowledge
which we were all laboring under, cheerfully
submitting to the catechism of the courageous
Lamb, the rest of us, more timid by nature,
thankfully absorbing it all. We learned that

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 37

THE BIBLE Is THE FOUNDATION OF MORMON
BELIEF

but co-equal with it they place the Book of
Mormon, compiled from a vision experienced by
the founder, Joseph Smith, uncle of this man, in
the year 1820. They believe the Bible was for
the people of the Eastern Hemisphere, the Book
of Mormon for the Western. The reason that
their Temple is kept sacred from the Gentile
or outside world was explained by the fact that
holy offices are being constantly performed there
— the baptism and confirmation of the dead —
for they hold that a living member of a family
may save the souls of unregenerate ancestors by
going through the ordeal of baptism by immer-
sion, a separate ceremony being necessary for
each dear departed. In fear and trembling we
hear the Lamb's insinuating voice

"AND Now ABOUT POLYGAMY, MR. SMITH?"

and the information was forthcoming in the
same courteous spirit. Plural marriages, as the
Mormons term them, have been permitted as
special rewards of merit, each one authorized
by the President — the applicant being intelligent,
upright in character and financially qualified. Two
or three was the usual number of wives allowed,
though some were more ambitious — Father
Brigham's ample fireside being too full for utter-
ance. There were formerly about two or three
thousand polygamous families, but since the de-

38 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

cision of the Supreme Court, about ten years ago,
no such marriages have been either performed
or sanctioned by the church, there being only
eight or nine hundred polygamous families in
existence, the paterfamilias of each of these
still holding himself responsible for their welfare
and maintenance despite any law to the contrary.
The church continues to firmly believe in plural
marriages, but sanctions no infraction of the
laws of the United States. The time is passing,
however, and, knowing that we are using up the
golden moments of a busy man, we make our
adieus and are piloted, again by Mr. Savage,
down to the train which is waiting to take
us to Saltair, a few miles away on the Great
Salt Lake, evidently the Coney Island of the
metropolis. Before arriving there we cross the
River Jordan and then come upon multitudes of
reservoirs where salt is made by solar evaporation.
Alighting from the train, an enormous open
pavillion. most fearfully and wonderfully made,
rises before us with long semi-circular arms
stretching out into the salt sea, and

A LINE OF 720 BATH-HOUSES BELOW.

Much of the lake at this season is a white sand
flat, but as we watched it, with the wonderful
snow-covered mountains all about it, the lights
and shadows made marvelous color effects and
we stood fascinated. But a black cloud descended
and a flurry of snow came upon us, so we were
ready for the return trip to the city, a trip made

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 39

memorable by the presence of a stunning little
bride. We much-abused wives would have put
blinders on our susceptible better-halves ; but no !
they sit with bulging eyes and open mouths,
picking flaws in the happy groom and cursing
the fate that brought them to Utah ten years too
late. Now

WE ARE HURRIED TO THE TITHING-STORES,

an institution maintained by the Mormon Church
for the reception and disbursement of all kinds of
goods and provisions, every member in good
standing putting aside one-tenth of his income
either in money or produce for the poor and sick
and aged, who buy from the tithing-house with
little paper exchange slips which resemble our
paper money. The business side of this church
is a very broad one — the beehive being their
emblem — and includes farming, the beet-sugar
industry, refining, banking, manufacturing,
mining, journalism, and a mammoth enterprise,
doing a business of between $3,000,000 and
$4,000,000 per annum, called "Zion's Cooperative
Mercantile Institution," President Smith being
practically the head of them all.

But the day is far spent, so we return to the
hotel to prepare for our roving life again, for
to-night we turn our faces toward Colorado.

THIRTY-EIGHTH DAY (March lyth)

This was a day of continuous car travel, and
the scenery through which we passed was the

4o Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

most sublimely beautiful we had yet seen. The
first morning view was of distant mesas bathed
in early sunlight. Then the mesa forms changed
to mountain shapes and became higher and more
peak-like. Some were covered with firs, with
snow glistening at the top, while others were bare
of tree life, showing marvelous rock formations.
As we looked ahead, the mountains on each side
seemed to draw together, and as we twisted
around through that ever-narrowing space we
would now and then come

FACE TO FACE WITH SOME GIGANTIC WALL

where tunneling through the rock itself was
the only way out. Through these great Rockies
we twisted all day, with a stream ever at our side,
bordered at times with low-growing bushes of a
coppery redness in their spring awakening which,
with the sage coloring of the sisal willow, made
a combination lovely indeed. We passed through
famous Glenwood Springs, seeing the large hotel
snuggled at the base of the mountains and the
open-air tanks where one may bathe out of doors
in medicinal waters, naturally warm — although he
has only to raise his eyes to see snow-capped
peaks. Glenwood is at the entrance of the Canyon
of the Grand River, where the mountains seem
almost to come together, being cleft only by
that busy little river, the Grand, along whose
edge we go. The walls of the canyon rise here on
either hand to a height that is appalling. As we
emerge from this canyon we come upon beds of

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 41

lava, telling a story of mighty upheavals eons
ago. The mountains now recede a little, and a
few cattle and scattered huts are seen here and
there.

WHERE THE EAGLE RIVER RUNS INTO THE GRAND

begins another canyon, the walls of which are
red stone — a red that is wonderful for its glowing
richness of tone. At the end of this canyon,
silhouetted against the sky, are frame huts perched
away on top of the canyon sides. They are the
homes of the miners and are known as the "Cliff-
Dwellings. "

Early in the afternoon we reached Minturn,
and here the train is divided into two sections,
for there is a great climb ahead up to the Tennes-
see Pass. Once this Pass is reached, it is time
to stop and think about things. We are now
10,418 feet above sea-level, and this is

THE VERY BACKBONE OF THE ROCKIES,

known as the Continental Divide. All bodies
of water having their source west of this point
flow toward the Pacific and all streams rising
east of this point flow into the Atlantic Ocean.
From here the river beside which we have been
traveling flows in the opposite direction and
is now the Arkansas River. The train is now
reunited and we go down at a great pace, drop-
ping at one point 406 feet in a mile. Leadville
should now be seen, from one point, as a city in the

42 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

clouds, but we missed just that glimpse, for at this
point the Lady Gazelle, looking out of the car
window, bristled with excitement and said,

"THERE'S A WOLF!"

Having watched in vain for something wild for
the past six weeks, this announcement threw
the Tenderfeet into a tremendous nutter. We
hung out of the windows and scanned the entire
landscape, including horizon and sky, but no
wolf was visible. Mrs. Gazelle vehemently in-
sisted that she had seen the animal, and as we
all have grown to love that little lady we humored
her — swallowed our suspicions and disappoint-
ment at one gulp, and dropped the matter. The
mountains now seemed closing in on us, and we
knew that the Royal Gorge must be not far ahead.
Great structures of soft-colored rock rose high
above us, on either side, and the track ran here
by the very brink of the river. Our train wound
its way through this great canyon as a snake might
twist and turn on his path at the foot of a moun-
tain— and we soon found ourselves

HEMMED IN BETWEEN Two GIGANTIC WALLS,

with the sky visible only as a strip of blue
away, away up — when we craned our necks to
find it. At the narrowest point of the canyon the
train must cross the river — which is now a little
torrent — and yet there is not a single bit of
ground here, on either side, on which to place

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset " 43

the base of a bridge — only the stream and the
great walls of pinkish rock, which, as we saw it,
was gorgeously bathed in sunset colors. But
man has triumphed over Nature even here, and
we see ahead of us a span of steel in the shape of
the letter A, braced only against the sides of the
canyon, its strength being at the apex of the two
beams which support each other in their contact.
From this centre is hung a bridge, and we go
thundering over it and are soon out of the gorge-
all too soon, for there is nothing grander than
this on the road. After dinner we reach Colorado
Springs and find a fine, large hotel, the Antlers,
twinkling with lights, just across the road. A
black-hearted coach-driver says that this hotel
is several blocks away, and tries to ensnare us
into his vehicle. But here the Lamb stands
right up and makes remarks to that wretch,
shoulders his own baggage and wrathfully makes
his way across the road to the hotel, the party
following, some meekly and others not so meekly.

THIRTY-NINTH DAY (March i8th)

We liked the Antlers and we liked Colorado
Springs, we liked the Antlers' beds, the food, and
the professional rates which the Lamb secured —
even he does not exactly know how. It came
about in this way: The clerk at the desk recog-
nized— or thought he recognized — the Lamb
as a long-lost friend. So the treasurer, feeling
a little thin as to his wad, told the Lamb
to arrange the bill. The clerk, looking at his

44 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

clean, clerical face, his commercial cheek or
his theatrical make-up, we don't know which,
remarked, "Professional rates, I suppose?" to
which the Lamb only nodded affirmative, not
knowing whether his troop was religious, dramatic
or a band of drummers. Anyhow, a bill was
produced which made the attenuated Gazelle
treasurer break down and sob like a child with
joy.

At the hotel we found this pleasant telegram,
showing that although gone we were not forgotten,
and a generous disregard for telegraph tolls which
never ceases to impress us.

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., March 17, 1903.
F. N. DOUBLEDAY, Care Antlers, Colo. Springs, Colo.

We hope it is as bright and sunny at Colorado Springs as
it is here this A.M., and as sparkling as your brilliant party
deserves. Just returned with Mrs. McCormick from a drive
on the beach at Cliff House, and we wished you had all been
with us. E. O. MCCORMICK.

Unhappily the weather did not agree with Mr.
McCormick, for the irridescent Zoo was wrapped
in cold, bluster and dust — anything but sparkling.

But to begin at the beginning: We awoke
refreshed. The Lady Gazelle, who, the night
before, carried her famous ''little gray jewel-bag"
and another bag up the long flight of stone steps
leading to the hotel, walking up her own skirt
most of the time and almost losing her temper,
was radiant after a good sleep, and we started for
Manitou Springs and the Garden of the Gods in
two carriages.

We can go on with life's journey and cut out
Manitou Springs without any excessive suffering,

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 45

but the Garden of the Gods was surely interesting
and beautiful. Queer formations of red rock
cover a few hundred acres. The roads are
fine, and the vandal had stayed his hand so that
the traveling tourists' names were not seen at
every monument of interest. But the best of the
drive came when we entered Glen Eyrie, General
Palmer's beautiful home. Fine trees lined the
road from the park gates in a land where trees
were apparently unknown. An eagle's nest of
generous proportions was plastered in a crag we
passed, and the same strange red formations
which made the Garden of the Gods famous
General Palmer has in his own front yard, so to
speak.

We were so f ortunate as to find the General him-
self at home and most cordial. We all regretted
that we could spend only a few minutes with him.
The Gazelle, wishing, as he always does, to say
the right thing, remarked in a low but penetrating
voice, "We like your hotel, General Palmer";
but evidently the General had little experience in
receiving delegations as tavern-keeper, and no
apt phrase such as hotel men use, like "Come
again " or " We strive to please, " occurring to him,
the subject was dropped.

A wild snowstorm came up in the afternoon
and we missed our connection at Denver, forcing
upon us a stay of six hours in that town, which
was passing through what they called a blizzard,
but what a Boston bean-eater would call a
breezelet.

The Bear and the Lamb called on Mr. Hooper, of

46 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset1'

the Denver & Rio Grande, whom the Bear had
known fifteen years ago. He expressed himself
delighted to see us, but undoubtedly regretted it
when we began making suggestions as to how to
conduct his railroad.

We told him it seemed queer to us that he
should spend thousands of dollars advertising the
Royal Gorge, and after one goes hundreds or
thousands of miles to see it, that the railway
should dash through the famous place (which is
only about a mile long) at twenty miles an hour.
No observation car, no stop, and no real chance
to see its wonders are offered. He explained
that the demand for speed was too great. It
seemed queer that trains almost always late
could not stand five minutes' further detention.

The late afternoon was spent by the ladies in a
curio store, much to the embarrassment of the
already frightened treasurer, and by the printer' s-
ink contingent in discussing men and books with
the Colorado News Company, to the genuine
enlightenment of the visitors. So with a generous
dinner at Brown's Palace Hotel we came to
the Burlington cars at ten with the usual squabble
as to who should occupy the drawing-room and
who the berths, and with the usual result that
the accommodating Bruin family took the best.

FORTIETH DAY (March igth)

On Thursday, March igth, we awakened from
our expensive and more or less restful sleep to
find ourselves in the vast reaches of the Nebraska

Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset" 47

cornfieldsj To what scenic variety have we been
treated the past four days ! Summer climate
and oranges in California, the high and arid
plains of Nevada and Utah, the majestic heights
of the Rockies, and to-day these hundreds of
miles of corn-stalks, force upon us an appreciation
of the cause of the favorable national export
balances and the making of foreign exchange.

So we steam through Nebraska, stopping at
small, uninteresting towns, among others Lincoln,
the home of W. J. Bryan, and finally reach
Omaha, where we stay for an hour and have time
for a glimpse of the city and a breath of fresh air.
Then on again across the Missouri River and into
fertile Iowa.

Our dinner is a matter for special record, for
we had become so used to the ugly Pullmans,
with their ill-assorted colors, filagree woodwork
and gilt, that the beautiful "Burlington" diner
of Mission design and simplicity of decoration
was most agreeable in contrast. We were told
that it was built by the Pullman Company from a
design prepared by officers of the road and their
wives, and we were led to moralize on the short-
comings of that great car-building company in
this regard, and their failure to live up to their
opportunities for elevating the standard of public
taste. As it is, the ornate ugliness of their cars is
reflected in many hotels and homes.

But as the engine eats up the miles of track
our thoughts turn toward Home and all the word
means to us, and we feel like turning to and
helping the stoker. The fact is also borne in

48 Toward the Sunrise on " The Sunset"

upon us that this is the last full day of the " Zoo's "
performance as a troupe this season, for we are
nearing Chicago, the place of disintegration, and
there is a tinge of melancholy in our hearts not
induced by the raw March wind that blows across
the prairies. Our memories run back over the
manifold experiences of the past six weeks to
the big-hearted friends we have made and their
more than generous hospitality and kindness,
which have been a revelation and a lesson. But
as the last recorder of this trip, I have a golden
opportunity to polish off the other animals and
show up their foibles, for they cannot retaliate;
but strangely enough, try as I may, memory fails
to yield a single discord or jarring note in our
comradeship during 8,300 miles or more of travel,
and for this recorder the future holds no happier
possibility than another pilgrimage in company
with the incomparable " Zoo, " who must now say
" Au revoir, but not good-by."

THE END