THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID
TRAVEL PICTURES
TRAVEL PICTURES
THE RECORD OF
A EUROPEAN TOUR
BY
BHAWANI SINGH
RAJ RANA BAHADUR OF JHALAWAR
WITH PHOTOGRAVURE PORTRAIT
AND 96 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
BV THE AUTHOR
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK, BOMBAY, AND CALCUTTA
1912
All rights reserved
uo
TO
HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY
GEORGE THE FIFTH
KING OF GREAT BRITAIN AND OF THE BRITISH OVERSEA
• DOMINIONS AND EMPEROR OF INDIA
THIS DIARY OF A EUROPEAN TOUR IS, WITH HIS MAJESTY'S
GRACIOUS PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY
DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR
INTRODUCTION
THE impressions left on my mind by a prolonged tour
in Europe are given to the world with considerable
diffidence. In 1904, I kept a diary recording the
wonderful sights which I was privileged to witness,
primarily for the benefit of my people in Jhalawar,
whose ideas of European civilization were of the
vaguest. Several friends who examined the MS.
advised me to address a wider public ; but I post-
poned taking action in this direction until the Corona-
tion Durbar of 1911 had passed into history. It is
the custom with Indian chiefs to offer precious gifts
on such occasions to the Emperor ; and, when we
learnt His Imperial Majesty had expressed a wish
that the practice should not be observed, it occurred
to me that I might be allowed to submit the Diary
of a tour in Europe in lieu of the customary presents.
His Imperial Majesty having been graciously pleased
to accept the dedication of my volume, I have been
enabled to realize an ardent desire to do something —
however little it may be — for the good of my fellow-
creatures.
These facts will, perhaps, account for the delay
which has occurred in the publication of " Travel
Pictures." Things move rapidly in this twentieth
century; the Europe of 1904 is not the Europe of
1912; many friends who welcomed me then have
M309961
viii INTRODUCTION
joined the great majority ; new ideas are current, and
each has left its stamp on civilization. I venture to
think, however, that the experiences of one who was
an " untravelled thane" when he jotted them down
may not be without interest for the public of this
country, of India, and the United States.
A faithful picture must have its shading as well as
its lights. My readers will, I trust, pardon the frank-
ness with which I have indicated what appeared in
my humble opinion as shortcomings in the marvellous
environment which has been created in Europe by
science and goodwill.
In conclusion, I would express my deep obligations
to Mr. Francis H. Skrine, late of the Indian Civil
Service, for a very careful revision of my Diary ; and
to Major R. A. E. Benn, C.I.E., now Political Agent
in Baluchistan, who was truly a "guide, philosopher
and friend " throughout my wanderings.
BHAWANI SINGH
59 CROMWELL ROAD,
LONDON, S.W., Oct. 1912.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I. BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES - - i
II. THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL TO PARIS AND LONDON 13
III. LONDON .... .... 39
IV. LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD ; SHEFFIELD, MAN-
CHESTER AND LIVERPOOL - - 63
V. SCOTLAND - .... . 89
VI. IRELAND • ... . 100
VII. IN ENGLAND AGAIN - ... I05
VIII. THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE — HOLLAND - - - 124
IX. HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN - - 132
X. MARIENBAD ; AND MY WATER CURE .... 146
XI. VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 165
XII. SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND BACK TO ENGLAND - - 176
XIII. BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 200
XIV. ITALY — TURIN, PISA, ROME- - 212
XV. ITALY — NAPLES - ... - 225
XVI. GREECE - - 247
XVII. EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN - - - - • 262
INDEX 281
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR Frontispiece
From a Photograph by Langfier, Ltd., 2^a Old Bond Street, London.
MARSEILLES, THE CANNEBIERE ...... 5
CASCADE IN THE PALAIS DE LONGCHAMPS .... M
BARCELONA - 20
BARCELONA, A MAIN THOROUGHFARE „
BARCELONA, A ROMAN GATEWAY 22
SUBURBS OF MADRID „
MADRID, A BULL-FIGHT, COMMENCEMENT - 24
PLANTING BANDERILLAS IN THE BULL - - „
AT BAY 26
THE BULL'S FUNERAL ,,
PORTUGUESE PEASANT - .... 28
LISBON
CINTRA, A MOORISH CASTLE - 30
MEDIAEVAL GATEWAY, BORDEAUX ...
VERSAILLES, GARDEN FRONT - - 36
VERSAILLES, GARDENS ...
BUCKINGHAM PALACE - - 39
CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE ... „
LONDON, THE MARBLE ARCH - • 54
THE RIVERSIDE AT STAINES - - „
GARDEN SCENE, MAIDENHEAD - 74
IN THE GARDEN OF THE THAMES HOTEL - ...
Xll
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
SHEFFIELD, QUEEN'S PARK
LIVERPOOL
SEAFORTH SANDS
NEW BRIGHTON, A FORT
MERCHANT TAYLORS' SCHOOL, LIVERPOOL
ATHLETIC SPORTS - -
EDINBURGH, THE OLD TOWN -
HOLYROOD PALACE
ABERDEEN, ROB ROY'S STATUE
ABOYNE, NEAR BALMORAL
CULLODEN MOOR, THE CUMBERLAND STONE
TOMB OF HIGHLANDERS -
LOCK ON THE CALEDONIAN CANAL -
CASTLE, LOCH LEVEN
BELFAST, SHIPBUILDING YARD
DUBLIN, DEER IN THE PHOENIX PARK
DUBLIN, VIEW IN THE PHCENIX PARK
COUNTRY ROAD NEAR BUXTON
AMSTERDAM, THE MARKET
AMSTERDAM, A RIVERSIDE SCENE •
AMSTERDAM, A CANAL ....
CART DRAWN BY DOGS ....
COPENHAGEN, A GROUP OF STATUARY
POTSDAM, DOGS' GRAVES, SANS-SOUCI
POTSDAM, THE GARDENS, SANS-SOUCI
POTSDAM, THE NEW PALACE •
MARIENBAD - ...
THE KURGARTEN -
VIENNA, THE HOFBURG ....
THE GARDENS, SCHOENBRUNN •
PAGE
82
19
84
86
M
89
•»
92
«>
94
»
96
M
IOO
It
102
M
I24
130
»9
138
I42
n
150
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xiii
PAGE
I70
PAGE
BUDAPEST
COLOSSAL STATUE OF BAVARIA, MUNICH - ...
LUCERNE, A MEDIAEVAL GATEWAY - - - 176
THE JUNGFRAU ----...._
BERNE - - - 184
BERNE, A STREET SCENE
GENEVA, ROUSSEAU'S ISLAND - - - - - 186
PARIS, THE SEINE
>»
PARIS, CHURCH OF ST. GERMAIN, AUXERROIS - - - 188
PARIS, THE TUILERIES GARDENS, FEEDING SPARROWS
DIEPPE FROM THE SEA i92
BRUSSELS, THE BOURSE, OR EXCHANGE
MILAN, THE CATHEDRAL 212
MILAN, STREET SCENE
MILAN, TRIUMPHAL ARCH - - - - 214
CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY
PISA, THE LEANING TOWER • ----216
NAPLES, A PUBLIC CONVEYANCE tt
NAPLES, LAZZARONE WAITING FOR MACARONI - - - - 218
ROME, THE FORUM
ROME, THE VATICAN - 222
ROME, ST. PETER'S -
VENICE, ST. MARK'S • 232
VENICE, THE DOGE'S PALACE - -
VENICE, THE BRIDGE OF SIGHS 234
VENICE, OUR GONDOLA
VENICE, THE RIALTO - - . 236
VENICE, A WEDDING PARTY - ............ M
VENICE, LORD BYRON'S SEAT - ... 240
CORFU
xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
CORFU, BRITISH DESTROYERS - 247
ATHENS, TEMPLE OF VICTORY -
ATHENS, TOWER OF THE WINDS
ATHENS, A DESERTED MOSQUE
ATHENS, PART OF THE STADIUM
THE PIRAEUS, A VEGETABLE-SELLER
THE PIRAEUS, THE HARBOUR • • 260
ALEXANDRIA, EXCAVATIONS • .»
CAIRO, A STREET SCENE - - 266
CAIRO, A BAKER'S STALL • ..
A WATER-CARRIER - - 270
CAIRO, A MUSSULMAN GRAVEYARD -
CAIRO, A STREET SCENE 274
CAIRO, A MARKET PLACE • ,.
CHAPTER I
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES
WE left Bombay at 1145 on April i6th, 1904. On reaching
the Ballard Pier, we were taken for medical examination to
the Port-Doctor, who received us very politely, felt our
pulse, and gave each of us a pass. Thakur Umrao Singh,
Dr. Ramlal, Abdulghafur Khan and Onkar, who formed
my party, were allowed to come with me to the Docks ; the
rest remained outside. Though I was going on a pleasure
trip, I felt greatly the separation from my people, whom I
was leaving. Just as we reached the Docks one of the steam-
launches left without us, but I was glad of this mishap, as
it afforded me an opportunity of bidding them a long fare-
well. At last we took our seats in a launch which put out
to sea, and the little group who had come with me from my
Capital, Jhalrapatan, dwindled to the merest speck.
When we reached the S.S. " Egypt " a ladder was thrown
from the steamer to the launch, and we all boarded her
easily. Dr. Ramlal too, though naturally very nervous, did
not find any difficulty in transferring himself to the great
ship.
On leaving Bombay, we found ourselves in the waters of
the Arabian Sea. It is a continuation of the Indian Ocean,
which is bounded on the North by Beluchistan and Arabia
and on the South by an imaginary line which passes through
30° of South latitude. The colour of the water where the
steamer had been lying was muddy ; after steaming for
two or three hours it turned to green, and next day, when
we were in the open sea, it changed again to deep blue.
2 TRAVEL PICTURES
The steamer was a quite new thing to us, and we therefore
had some difficulty in finding our cabin, but as I saw other
passengers hurrying to theirs, I had to ask my way. On
reaching the cabin assigned to me I sent for its steward,
named Kemp, who proved most obliging. We made a
mistake in bringing so many trunks into the cabin, as it was
very small, being meant to accommodate three passengers
only. It contained an almeira, or cupboard with three
drawers, two wash-stands, and a writing table. There was
a port-hole on one side, through which a sufficient supply of
fresh air came in. In my opinion one should take only a
trunk for three changes of clothes and an evening dress suit,
and a smaller box to hold shirts, of which one is required
every day. An overcoat and an umbrella should never be
forgotten ; they can be placed in a hold-all.
We felt very lonely and uncomfortable, and had to look
to the steward for everything. On the first evening we did
not go into the saloon, but asked him to bring our dinner to
the cabin. We were quite helpless, and so had to keep quiet ;
fortunately we had some fruit with us.
The whole steamer was lighted with electricity. Our
cabin, not being on the deck, was rather close, and we were
much afraid of being sea-sick, but I did not feel anything of
the sort. The steamer was very steady, the sea being calm.
Owing to the discomfort and anxiety, we were so tired that
we were all asleep by nine o'clock. The cabin which had
been assigned to Abdulghafur and Onkar, being on a lower
deck, was not a good one, and they felt very miserable. In
fact, their cabin was below water-line, and the port-hole had
to be kept shut all the time. I told them to sit in ours,
which was quite a treat to them. Electric fans can be fixed
up in the cabins at a low price, and one should certainly
hire them, as they are a great comfort, especially in the Red
Sea.
There were only a few bathrooms in this steamer, and
sometimes one had to wait a long time for one's turn.
Passengers donned a dressing-gown, armed themselves with
a big towel, and stood waiting outside the bath-rooms until
one was vacant. At first I did not like the idea of bathing
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES 3
in salt water, but after sluicing myself once, my opinion
changed, and I enjoyed it very much. The marble bath
had two taps, which gave hot and cold water, but the
quantity of fresh water allowed to each bather was not large.
At 7 a.m. every morning, tea and coffee were served to
the passengers, with biscuits and various kinds of fruit.
The breakfast hour was 8.30, after we had taken our bath.
There were eight or nine courses. A man who is not
accustomed to English food finds it rather difficult of
digestion.
When we went on deck I met an Indian gentleman who
had spoken to me in the steam-launch. He proved to be
the Hon. Amir Ali, one of the Justices of the Calcutta High
Court. He told me that he was writing a History of the
Saracens, in which he was going to prove that the Moham-
medans and Rajputs are descended from a common
stock.
At one o'clock luncheon was served. There were again
nine or ten courses, and ices were handed round at the end,
which are very pleasant when the weather is warm. After
luncheon, Sunday service was held in the dining-saloon.
The ceremony was very impressive, and hymns were sung
at intervals. I visited the Library ; a passenger can become
a member by subscribing half a crown for the voyage, and
is then entitled to take out one book at a time. It contained
a good many, but most of them were novels ; there were no
scientific works whatever. We went up and sat on deck,
where it was rather windy, as a nice breeze was blowing.
It is better to remain on deck as much as possible, because the
cabins are usually stuffy.
Every Sunday a muster is held of the crew and stokers ;
it is the duty of the latter to look after the furnaces in the
engine-room and see to the proper supply of coal for com-
bustion. It must be a real treat for them, as they have to
take a bath and change their clothes before the Sunday
muster. All of them belong to tropical or semi-tropical
countries — Abyssinians, Indians, Arabs, Negroes and Chinese
being represented. It would seem that Negroes are most
suited for this sort of work, for the air of their habitat is
4 TRAVEL PICTURES
nearly as hot as the engine-room, and their skulls of immense
thickness.
A deck-chair is indispensable, and if a passenger can take
one or two extra, so much the better. No one should be
without binoculars either, for these are useful when one
happens to see other steamers at a distance, looking like
toys on a vast sheet of water. Flying fish are abundant in
these seas ; they have wings and can fly for a considerable
distance, but always close to the surface of the water. It is
very amusing to watch the antics of their enemies, the por-
poises. These big fish dive into the water and spring out of
it again. In this way they go on diving and jumping while
they keep pace with the ship.
The steamer makes a sort of path in its rear. I heard
an amusing story about it which related to the time when the
last Expedition was sent out to China. One of the Pathans
from the frontier, who had never beheld the sea in his life, and
was of course quite ignorant as to how ships were steered,
seeing a path behind the steamer and none in front, expressed
his sui prise to his English officer, and wanted to know how
the captain was able to steer his ship when there was no track
in front ! When the sun shines at a proper angle on the
spray caused by the motion of a steamer, a tiny rainbow is
produced which looks very lovely.
If a passenger is fond of reading, he cannot find a better
place in which to indulge his taste than on a steamer. It is
really very pleasant to sit on deck and read. Life on board
ship is very regular and simple ; one gets everything required
by merely asking for it. Tickets are supplied for mineral
waters, etc., and all one has to do is to enter on the ticket
the article required, together with one's name and the number
of one's berth, and the article in question will be sent at once
to the cabin.
Every week there are two baggage-days, on which the hold
is opened for the passengers, and they can get their things
if their trunks are marked " Wanted on the Voyage."
Lemon-squash is a common beverage on board. I saw
some passengers sipping it through straw tubes, and thought
at first they were taking medicine. But one day I ordered
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES 5
lemon-squash, which was brought to me with a straw tube,
and I soon found it was something far more pleasant.
Generally the officers on a steamer are very polite, and
if a passenger wants to know all about the navigation, he
should make acquaintance with them. Our Captain's name
was " Lendon." I visited him in his room and expressed
a wish to know how a ship was steered. He took me to
another room, where one of the quarter-masters was turning
a small steering-wheel, which kept the ship's head on the
course indicated by a revolving compass in front of him.
The Captain also showed me how time is ascertained with
the sextant, and then introduced me to Mr. Wright, the
Chief Engineer, whom he asked to show me the engines.
Mr. Wright took me to the engine-room, deep down in the
hold. The first question which occurred to my mind was,
" How can such heavy things float in water ? " The tempera-
ture here was 108° Fahrenheit, but the Engineer told me that
in hot weather it goes up as high as 120°. It is fearfully hard
work for the stokers and others who have to be there. In
this ship there are two engines which supply the motive
power for everything she needs. They distil water, pump it
up, steer the ship, light it with electricity ; and the electric
bells and fans are also worked by them : they make ice and
clean the steamer, and indeed are " jacks of all trades."
Mr. Wright explained everything to me, but it was so noisy
in his realm that I could not catch all his words. On reaching
the upper region again, I felt quite exhausted.
Towards evening on April igth a wind sprang up, and the
waves began to rise. While we were at dinner, some water
found its way into the dining-saloon, through the port-hole,
and two gentlemen at table were drenched. During the
night it happened two or three times that water came into
my cabin through the port-hole. The " wind-sail " is a
tube made of iron. In calm weather it is attached to the
port-hole on the outside of the ship, catches the wind and
sends it into the cabin. When the sea is rough the port-
holes are closed.
I passed a bad night, and could not sleep at all, owing to
my expedition to the engine-room. In the morning the sea
6 TRAVEL PICTURES
became so calm that we did not feel the motion of the ship.
After breakfast we went on deck, from whence we saw the
coast of Arabia. We tried our binoculars, but to little
purpose, as there was not much to see. The mountains,
apparently of sandstone, remained visible for two or three
hours. All the passengers were enjoying themselves on
deck, when suddenly we heard the alarm whistle. A
number of sailors and khalasis ran to the upper deck, got
into a life-boat, and began to lower it. Soon afterwards,
however, another whistle was heard, which indicated that
their services were no longer required, and so they got out
of the boat and secured it as before. We learnt afterwards
that it was only a test. Such alarms are given to see whether
the people belonging to the steamer are doing their work
properly, and the life-boats in good order.
On the 20th April at n p.m. we reached Aden. As it
was night-time we could only see the lights of the town and
a huge mountain in the back-ground. As soon as our
steamer was anchored, a steam-launch brought two boats
full of coal. After they had been secured to the steamer, a
crowd of coolies began coaling. On such occasions the port-
holes of the cabins occupied by the passengers are closed by
a thick circular glass, rimmed with brass, to prevent coal
dust entering. But fresh air is also excluded, and as the
steamer lay at anchor the heat became unbearable. Besides,
the coolies made a fearful din. Several times I went on
deck, but could not get a breath of air. I sat down to a
game of cards with a Parsi gentleman, with whom I had
become acquainted on the ship. There were also two or
three Indian gentlemen on board, whose acquaintance I was
glad to make. They were very polite, and when they learnt
it was our first voyage they did their best to make me and
my party comfortable. Mr. Barucha was from Bombay,
and Mr. Vakil of Ahmedabad was accompanied by his nephew.
These nice people lent me books. There were also two Parsi
ladies who were going to America.
I sent a telegram to Major R. A. Benn, of the Indian
Political Department, who had been deputed by Govern-
ment to accompany me during my tour, to the effect that I
MARSEILLES, THE CANNEBIERE
CASCADE IN THE PALAIS DE LONGCHAMPS
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES 7
would not disembark at Suez, as I had intended, owing to
the quarantine. I also asked him to come on board at Port
Said, adding that we would leave the steamer at Marseilles.
On the morning of April 2ist we passed through the
straits of Babelmandeb, between Arabia and Africa. The
sea here is very narrow, and so we could make out the
mountain-ranges on both sides. We had now entered
the Red Sea, and some people expected to find the water of
that colour.
After luncheon we were sitting in our cabin when Kemp
came to tell us that the Captain wanted to examine the
compasses, as it was a very favourable place to do so, inas-
much as it abounded in small islands. We dressed in haste
and went on deck. We saw two or three lofty hills standing
out of the sea, one of which had a light-house. The
mountains are quite barren, without even a blade of grass.
The Red Sea is full of reefs, and often stormy ; hence many
light-houses have been erected on its coast. A new system
of throwing light is adopted, by which flashes at short
intervals are succeeded by a longer period of darkness.
Each light-house has its particular group of flashes, and
every captain of a ship has a chart showing how many to
expect. A concert was held in the music-saloon after dinner.
We spent a very restless night, for the Sea seems to get
" red " hot ; it bears a very appropriate name after all.
Every morning a lottery takes place. Tickets, bearing
various numbers indicating the number of miles the ship is
likely to travel that day, are drawn, and then sold by auction
to the highest bidder. At noon, when bearings by the
sun are taken, the number of miles which the steamer has
made is given out, and the passenger who bought that
number wins the whole stakes.
During the afternoon of 22nd April, while we were sitting
on the deck, an alarm- whistle was heard, which we thought
was testing the sailors, but seeing all the passengers hurrying
to one side we followed them and learnt that a lascar had
fallen overboard. At first we could see nothing, but after
a few seconds made out a black object floating on the surface.
As soon as the ship drew near, the life-boat was lowered and
8 TRAVEL PICTURES
quickly rowed to the spot where the poor fellow was floating,
with the help of a life-belt which had been thrown to him.
After he had been lifted into the boat a roar of applause
arose from the passengers, who were watching the scene
with much anxiety. The man was quite unconscious when
rescued.
I had a long talk with Mr. Barucha, who was a great
admirer of the Maharaja of Gwalior. I was glad to hear
such appreciative remarks about an Indian Prince.
It was chilly when we neared Suez, and we were glad to
get into warmer clothes. That morning we saw a flight of
pelican ; these birds have a pouch near their necks, which
they fill with fish.
At 2.30 p.m. on April 24th we reached Suez, where the
steamer was anchored for some time. There is a mountain
in the background, but the town is picturesquely situated on
a plain. The sight of trees, where everything else is dry and
barren, was most refreshing to the eye. On a promontory
there are a few buildings occupied by Consuls and other
high officials. A bay separates the town from these build-
ings. The town is connected by a railway line from Cairo,
and during the short time we stayed there we saw two
railway trains running. The houses are generally four
storeys high and are painted in different colours, which do
not blend at all ; every man has his own fancy. The mail
was taken on board. I received a letter from Major Benn,
and the mail agent kindly gave me Renter's telegrams. The
passengers were delighted to read them, as they had had no
news since we left Aden. The Egyptian medical authorities
boarded us to examine passengers. We were told to sit in
the dining-saloon, and then, as each was called by name, he
went on deck. The doctor did not feel our pulse, he merely
ascertained whether we were able to walk. These pre-
cautions are taken in order to detect the presence of plague
or cholera on board.
We had also a printing-press which did job work. I
learnt this on seeing the programme of a concert given on
board. I had noticed the dinner and other menus in print
before, but I thought that the authorities, with their accurate
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES 9
knowledge of everything connected with the ship, had had
the menus printed in Bombay before starting.
A few gendarmes of the Egyptian Government came on
board to preserve quarantine by preventing passengers from
going ashore. They belong to different nationalities, for the
Egyptian service is free to all, without restriction.
Before starting from Suez a pilot came on board to steer
us through the Suez Canal, which extends to Port Said. Its
length is only about 100 English miles, a quarter of which had
to be excavated, while the rest is formed of the Bitter Lakes
and Lake Timsah. The breadth of the Canal averages 327
feet, though in some places it is less than this. At the
bottom it is only 72 feet, and the depth is kept at 26 feet.
At first manual labour was utilised to clear the bottom of
mud, but that system did not work effectively, and so steam-
dredging was applied. I saw many dredgers which were
scooping mud from the bottom of the Canal. The mechanism
resembles our rainths, or water-wheels used for irrigation.
Just as there are small pots in the rainth, which lift water
out of the well, so a dredger carries buckets, which go down
empty and come up filled with mud. The latter is transferred
to smaller boats, which discharge it into deep sea. The level
of the Red Sea is only six inches higher than that of the
Mediterranean. Napoleon Bonaparte thought of making
this Canal in 1798, but the engineers of that time declared
that the level of the Red Sea was 33 feet higher than that
of the Mediterranean, and so he gave up the idea. In the
Canal, at suitable distances, stations are built where steamers
can pass one another. Here I saw a search-light for the
first time ; to-night they are using it to discover the course
of the ship, which is marked by buoys, lighted with gas after
dark. When a ship has an electric head-light, everything
in front can be seen very clearly.
When I got up on the morning of April 25th our ship was
nearing Port Said. We took thirteen hours coming through
the Canal, and reached Port Said between 9 and 10 a.m.
This town appeared neat and clean, but the absence of trees
made it look barren. There are some very good buildings,
which we could see from our ship. The quarters occupied
io TRAVEL PICTURES
by the Canal officers are magnificent, and those of the higher
class agents hardly less extensive. Thomas Cook & Son,
Henry S. King & Co., Pears' Soap, and the Times of India
are advertised in huge letters on the wall of a house. There
is a light-house which is 180 feet high, and is supplied with
strong electric light. Near by there stands a statue of the
French engineer, Count de Lesseps, who made the Suez
Canal. It shows de Lesseps with his right hand pointing
out the Canal to approaching steamers. His was a wonderful
work, and was completed by French engineers, for their
English colleagues laughed the project to scorn. After
many delays it was begun in 1859, an<^ practically completed
in ten years.
Major Benn came on board at Port Said and handed me a
letter from Sir Curzon Wyllie, in which the latter kindly
promised to do all he could for me in London.
The halting places on the Suez Canal reminded me of the
rural railway stations in India. They are groups of small
godowns, each of which has its patch of verdure. Fresh
water is supplied from a special canal connected with the
Nile, which enables station-masters to lay out tiny gardens
and even to rear trees, which break the dull monotony of the
desert. There is a railway line from Suez to Alexandria,
which was much used in old times, but since the completion
of the Canal very few people cross the Isthmus by land.
Midway in its course the line approaches the Canal and then
runs alongside it to Port Said. In the southern portion
there are no trees on either bank, but as soon as it meets the
fresh-water canal there is plenty of coarse grass and some
trees.
We reached Port Said between 9 and io a.m. on April
26th, and left for Marseilles at 7 in the evening. Although
it was dinner-time, I went on deck to see the lights of Port
Said. The light-house, fitted with electric light, throws its
beams to a great distance. At Port Said our ship again took
in coal, and we endured the same noise and discomfort that
we had experienced at Aden. When our steamer emerged
into the Mediterranean, she began to roll a bit, but it was a
nice cool evening, and we enjoyed ourselves on deck.
BOMBAY TO MARSEILLES n
A doctor is provided by the P. & O., but I did not require
his services, having my own attendant in the person of Dr.
Ramlal. We had taken with us a medicine chest from
Bombay, which proved a great convenience. Earl}, in the
morning Kemp told me that the body of a European passen-
ger was being taken on deck for burial. I dressed myself
quickly and went on deck, but the sea had already claimed
its prey, and the Bishop of Lahore was reading the final
prayer, after which the Union Jack, which had been placed
on the coffin, was taken away by a sailor. Funerals at
sea are of rare occurrence, and, from what I have heard
from other people, I gather that they are very impressive
ceremonies.
There is a barber's shop on board, but it would hardly be
wrong to call it a general emporium of small commodities.
In India barbers are renowned for being talkativC"an3TtHen\
European confreres are not free from this habit. ~**^
The Mediterranean Sea is often rough. Our ship began
to roll, making us feel very uncomfortable. I remained in
bed, and my port-hole was closed as the sea rose higher,
sometimes darkening the cabin. I found lemon-squash and
champagne better preventives of sea-sickness than the
remedies brought by Dr. Ramlal.
On April 27th we passed the island of Candia, or Crete,
but could see only the peaks of lofty mountains.
On April 28th the ship began to roll violently, and I felt
very miserable indeed. If it had been possible I should have
landed, for I longed to set my feet on terra firma. During
the afternoon we entered the Straits of Messina, between
Italy and Sicily. The former is more picturesque. The
white houses of the town of Messina and Reggio, dotting the
green mountain slopes, looked very beautiful, and it was
interesting to watch the railway trains speeding along the
coast and crossing the numerous bridges necessitated by
mountain torrents. The island of Sicily appears to be barren,
but is not so in harvest time. Communication with the
mainland is maintained by small boats, but the day will
come when Italy and Sicily are connected by means of a
tunnel.
12 TRAVEL PICTURES
On April 28th we passed through the narrow Straits of
Bonifaccio, between Sardina and Corsica. The latter island
produces excellent ponies, small in stature but very strong.
But Corsica's chief title to fame is the fact that it was the
birth-place of Napoleon, who, if the Fates had been kind to
him, might well have conquered India. The small island of
Elba, lying to the east of Corsica, was his sole domain after
he had been beaten by the Allies in 1814.
On the morning of April 30th we neared Marseilles. After
breakfast we reached the quarantine station, close to the
ancient Chateau d'lf, well known by hearsay to readers of
Monte Christo. Here our ship cast anchor, pending the
doctor's visit ; on satisfying him that we were free from
infection, we were allowed to proceed to the landing-place.
It was a great sight for me — the vast number of vessels
lying in harbour. As soon as our ship came alongside the
quay, the gang-way was lowered, and passengers swarmed
ashore. Major Benn was of great use to us ; without him
I should have been very helpless. He arranged everything
so admirably that all I had to do was to get into a carriage
and drive to our hotel.
'
CHAPTER II
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL TO
PARIS AND LONDON
ON reaching the Grand Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix, our
carriage drove under a circular porch, roofed with glass. We
were shown into the lift, which, as soon as we had taken our
seats, flew upwards to the floor on which our reserved suite
was situated. A waiter who accompanied us led the way
into our rooms, which were really splendid. I was so struck
with their grandeur that I had to express amazement to
Major Benn. The wall-paper in my sitting-room was very
pretty ; the ceiling displayed different designs in gold, and
the curtains were of rich tapestry. By and by I began to
think more calmly, and then examined the things with
greater care. What a poor life Indian Princes lead com-
pared with that of a passenger who has taken up his abode
for a day or two in such a palace as this ! In front of my
room there was a balcony which overlooked the street, and
even from my writing-table I could see everything that was
going on beneath. Electric tramways pass the hotel every
two minutes, and there is a never-ending flow of carriages.
This hotel has seven storeys, but some buildings have eight
or nine, and there are many, of course, with fewer. Carts,
carrying grain and other heavy commodities, rattled by,
drawn by six or seven horses in a team. French horses
seem to be almost as big and strong as our Indian elephants !
We wished to go out for a drive during the afternoon, but
could not get a decent carriage for love or money ; so many
weddings were taking place at this time of the year that
13
I4 TRAVEL PICTURES
nearly all the carriages had been hired. I saw many wedding
parties passing, and, by way of contrast, a funeral procession.
The coffin, draped in dark blue cloth, with a cross of white
cloth, was placed in an open hearse. The chief mourners
who followed in carriages were bareheaded, and every passer-
by took off his hat as the cortege drove slowly by.
Major Benn speaks French quite fluently, and did every-
thing necessary for us ; I cannot express what a comfort he
was to me. Towards evening we got a dirty-looking carriage
and drove to the telegraph office, a huge building, in the
centre of which were two tables supplied with writing
materials. In small wooden boxes the telegraph forms were
automatically arranged, so that when one takes out a form
another hangs half way down. On one side telegraphic
messages are written, and if one wants to send a telephonic
message, he has to write it on the reverse side. I think this
is an excellent arrangement.
We called at booksellers' shops, and bought Baedeker's
Guide to Spain, and two manuals of conversation in Spanish
and English. A constant flow of men and women is to be
seen on both sides of the streets, which are paved with
stones, while the side- walks are reserved for pedestrians.
The shops are fitted with electric bells and lights ; they are
closed on Sundays, for it is forbidden to work on that day,
when country people come into town to enjoy themselves.
Coffee and wine are the favourite drinks of the French. I
bought a camera, which proved very useful ; I felt grateful
to my friend Major Benn for the suggestion. People here
are very fond of dogs ; and women of the lower classes walk
about the streets without any hats. As soon as the doors of
one's bedroom are opened, one is greeted by the noise of the
traffic, which is incessant.
After tea, Major Benn and I went for a walk. We passed
along a famous thoroughfare called the Cannebiere, and went
as far as the church of St. Vincent de Paul. Near this
church there is a beautiful boulevard serving as a promenade
for all classes. There are Chinars or plane trees on either
side, which give plenty of shade. Men and women were
walking there in endless streams. Cafes seem very popular ;
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 15
they are crowded with families enjoying themselves in a
simple way.
Though we were to be in Marseilles for a very short time,
we had the good fortune to see most of the characteristics
of the place. This city is noted for strikes, and one was in
progress at the time of our visit. The strikers paraded the
streets with flags and banners, while thousands of people
followed them, creating a fearful dust.
Near the church of St. Vincent de Paul stands the monu-
ment of " Les Mobiles des Bouches du Rhone," which is a
beautiful production by a M. Turcan. France is shown as
wounded, with her brave soldiers at the foot of the monu-
ment. We went to the " Jardin Borely," formerly a
private garden, but now laid out as a public park. I noticed
many European trees and plants which one never sees in
India. The walks are bordered with shrubs, and the slopes
covered with the choicest flowering plants. There is a small
pond, which the guide told us had been frozen over some
fifteen years ago, when the people of Marseilles actually
skated on it. It is very seldom that snow falls here. There
is also a museum attached to this garden, which contains
Egyptian articles. I was very interested with some
mummies four thousand years old, and I learnt that dead
bodies were embalmed, after the heart and intestines had
been removed and placed in jars ; we saw some which were
used for keeping human ashes, proving the great antiquity
of cremation. We were also shown some coffins which had
contained dead bodies ; the corpse's biography was written in
hieroglyphics on the lid. We saw many articles of interest
pertaining to ancient Greece and Rome ; some enormous
jars used for keeping oil and other substances, and a flour-
mill resembling those used in India. Some European
visitors expressed surprise at the mill, and remarked that
the ancients used very rough means for grinding corn. If
they went to India they would see every house provided
with such appliances. We saw many human faces carved
in marble and other stones. The sculpture is really
beautiful ; people of those days did very fine work with
tools of the roughest kind. There were some pillars, the
16 TRAVEL PICTURES
carving of which was magnificent, and so deep that it could
hardly be copied with the aid of machinery. Then we went
upstairs to inspect the curtains and tapestries made two
hundred years ago at the Gobelins manufactory. They
represent trees, creepers, flowers, and are so exquisitely and
ingeniously worked that they look as fresh as if they had
left the loom but yesterday. There are also some chairs
upholstered in the same stuff. Gobelins tapestry is very
rare, and fetches enormous prices ; modern manufacturers
try to imitate it and make money by such shams. There is
a chapel too, which M. Borely, who sold the garden to the
town, kept for his private use. We also saw some old English
armour. There is a miniature plan of Marseilles as it was
in 1821 ; since that time a great many harbours and build-
ings have been added. In front of this house there is a
small tank which contains fish of different colours. Two
stone lions stand on either side, discharging water from their
mouths. Further on some fountains were playing ; the
white spray rising from them looked beautiful against the
background of green lawns and trees. The turf was of
emerald hue, and here and there were many beds planted
with gorgeous flowers. After going round the park we drove
to the Palace Hotel by the " Prado." Here we took coffee,
as all French people do on Sundays. We passed a bridge
which is named the " Bridge of False Money." The story
told by our guide was, that in old days many spurious coins
got into circulation. People began to suspect that there was
a regular band of budmashes, or swindlers who counterfeited
the coins, and so the police were ordered to bring the culprits
to book. They lit upon a cave near this place where the
false money was made. On a search being instituted, all
the tools were found there, whence the name of the bridge.
Driving by the Rue de Corniche, we saw the old and the
southern ports. Owing to the strikes there were a number
of ships at anchor without a single sailor on board. The
Roman Catholic Church here is a very fine edifice. Its
foundation stone was laid about fifty years ago, but the
building has not yet been completed. The guide told us that
subscriptions were being continually raised, and that as soon
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 17
as a certain sum has been collected, the work is started again.
On the port we saw thousands of persons in a great state of
excitement, owing to the elections which were going on at
that time for the Chamber of Deputies, a French House of
Commons.
In the evening, after dinner, we went to a variety enter-
tainment. We were surprised to see the audience wearing
straw hats and not in evening dress. There were some
acrobats who performed very difficult feats, and a buffoon
excited roars of laughter. Returning to our hotel we heard
much shouting and singing below, so I went out on the
balcony to see what was going on. It was an election crowd,
talking, gesticulating and drinking. When an election takes
place the candidate plays all sorts of tricks with the people
of his constituency ; he makes them drunk and then asks
them to vote for him. I think that such a practice should
not be allowed, for a vote given under such circumstances
is of no value. We saw a few carts drawn by donkeys. As
the island of Corsica is not far from here, people use its tough
little ponies in carriages. We went to the Palais de Long-
champs, which is a very fine building, containing a museum
and picture gallery in either wing. In the middle there is
a triumphal arch, through which a cascade of water falls
into a basin. At the head of the cascade there is a figure
representing the river Durance, in a chariot drawn by four
bulls, accompanied by others symbolizing wine and wheat.
Marseilles is supplied with water from this river : the canal
which brings the water is a triumph of modern architecture.
It is fifty-seven miles long, and at one place it passes through
a tunnel of considerable length. In the museum we saw
some excellent sculpture carved out of huge marble blocks.
The best group represents Jesus Christ and His Mother.
The expression on the Virgin Mary's countenance, as she
gazes at her son, is most life-like, and does great credit to the
sculptor. In the upper storey we saw some very large
paintings. I was simply horrified to see one of the Massacre
of the Innocents. It was a whim of King Herod of Judea,
who ordered all children in arms of up to two years old to be
slain, in order to destroy the infant Jesus. There is a
18 TRAVEL PICTURES
Zoological Garden in the rear of the Palace. After quitting
it we ascended a lofty hill by means of a lift, and the pano-
rama grew more and more beautiful as we mounted. On
reaching the summit, the whole town of Marseilles lay below
us. These lifts are worked by electricity, and the weight
of passengers counteracted by water. There are two cars
which go up and descend simultaneously, that is to say,
when one goes up the other comes down. The top is about
270 feet above the ground. We entered a church known
by the name of " Notre Dame de la Garde/' owing to the
protection which the Virgin Mary is supposed to give to
mariners. It stands on the highest point in Marseilles, and
offers a landmark to ships twenty miles from shore. The
dome is crowned by a figure of the Virgin Mary, 50 feet high,
made in three pieces only, and heavily gilt. Though this
church is quite small, the rich mosaic work of the ceiling is
most imposing. The principal altar displayed birds and
other pretty designs worked in mosaic. That on the ceiling
is made of small pieces of stone, or glass imitating gold.
Candles, some of which were 3 feet in length, were burning
near the gateway, and there was an altar for the reception of
e% votos, or offerings made in pursuance of a vow taken at a
time of great danger. There were two red lamps, in which
the lights were kept perpetually burning, and therefore
called " everlasting lights." Over the principal altar there
is a figure of the Virgin Mary, 3 feet high ; the heat of the
candles melted the first one, but now another has been put
up in its place. Many of the congregation held strings of
beads in their hands and were whispering Pater Nostcrs
equivalent to our " Ram, Ram." There were a few con-
fessionals, or enclosed recesses of wood. The priest takes
his seat in one of them and the person who wishes to confess
his sins whispers them through a stone lattice-work which
prevents his being seen by the priest. This church is
approached by a drawbridge. As we were entering, we met
some nuns coming out. There is a company of soldiers who
guard the place, and as soon as a ship is seen from here, the
news is telephoned to different places in the town.
On the 3rd May, after luncheon, we drove to the cathedral,
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 19
" Sainte Marie Majeure," which is a magnificent building.
The central dome is no less than 197 feet in height. In the
chancel is a figure of Jesus Christ, which represents Him
after He had been crucified ; blood is oozing from His side
and a crown of thorns is on His head. Near the cathedral
there is a bronze statue of Archbishop Belsunce, who tended
sufferers from the plague of 1720. It was imported by a
vessel hailing from Smyrna, and claimed sixty thousand
victims.
At 8 p.m. on May 3rd we left Marseilles for Barcelona,
travelling by a line which runs more or less parallel to the
Mediterranean coast. The early part of the night there was
no moon, but when it rose, most beautiful scenery was un-
folded before us. On one side was the sea, and on the other
hills and woods, which looked lovely. After travelling for
several hours our train stopped at Cette, a busy little sea-
port founded in 1666 by Colbert, who did more to develop
the industries of France than all her kings put together.
There are two hills on each side of the harbour, which are
fortified and held by a considerable garrison.
At 3 a.m. next day we reached Portbou, where the French
and Spanish boundaries meet. Every Customs facility was
kindly afforded us. The country between the frontier and
Barcelona is studded with villages, which looked very
picturesque, with forests, fields and the snow-clad Pyrenees
in the background. The peasants prepare their fields with
the greatest care, leaving no clod unbroken, and reducing
the earth to a finely pulverised condition. Considering the
rugged and mountainous character of the country very little
land is left uncultivated. Water for irrigating the fields is
lifted from wells by a wheel resembling our Indian dhekli.
Indeed it has an eastern origin, having been imported into
Spain by her Saracen conquerors. Rain water is also
utilised ; it flows from the hills through trenches paved with
stone, which drain off the surplus not required for irrigation.
On reaching Barcelona at 8 a.m. we put up at the " Grand
Hotel de Colon," which is a magnificent building facing the
" Plaza," the biggest square in Europe. The Spanish women
cover their heads with a sort of veil called a mantilla, made
20 TRAVEL PICTURES
of lace, while those of Marseilles go about without anything
on their heads. The public conveniences of this city have
more privacy than those at Marseilles. I think the French
might well follow the example of Barcelona in this respect.
The hotel is very modern, and every room is fitted with
telephones, electric bells and lights. The staircase is of
marble, which is very pleasant to walk on. There is also
an automatic lift which takes people up and down, saving
their time and energy. Our rooms look out on a very wide
thoroughfare, which is known by the name of " Rambla."
Electric tramways run along it every five minutes, and there
are altogether seven roads, two pavements for pedestrians,
and two lines for tramways. Barcelona ranks next to the
Spanish capital in importance. In this part of the country,
the door of a house draped with a black curtain indicates
that someone within the house lies dead. The same custom
is followed in the churches ; if black curtains are put on the
church doors, one knows that a funeral service is going on.
Barcelona is surrounded with hills, and on one of them
called Montjuich there is a citadel which protects the harbour.
Another may be ascended by means of a funicular, literally
" cable," railway. This has two carriages, which are at-
tached to the ends of a cable working on iron cog-wheels
placed between the two rails, on which the carriages run.
At the top there is a huge roller which turns round, and with
each revolution it winds up one end of the rope and lets go
the other end. In this way, while one carriage ascends the
other descends, and the weight of the one counterbalances
that of the other. The city of Barcelona and the harbour
lie below as one mounts in the car, and are seen at their
best. The weather of Europe cannot be relied upon, but in
Spain there are more chances of its being fine than further
north. On the top of the hill there was a shooting range,
which was quite a new thing to Thakur Umrao Singh. He
and Major Benn tried some shots, and were successful in
some of them, but Dr. Ramlal was very cautious, and never
risked any adventures. On our way back we saw the
Columbus Monument, at the top of which stands a colossal
statue of the discoverer of America. From this place we
BARCELONA
A MAIN THOROUGHFARE
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 21
could see the whole town and the haibour spread out like
a raised map.
There is a cemetery at Barcelona which is well worth
seeing. There are hundreds of monuments displaying
statues, besides family vaults which cannot be opened till
two years after the last coffin buried there. If a second
death takes place in the same family within that period, a
vault is hired until the two years have elapsed, so that even
a dead man has to pay for his temporary abode. These
vaults are covered with creepers, which look very beautiful,
and beds planted with the choicest flowers abound. Unless
he were told, a visitor would hardly know that it was a
cemetery. One of the monuments commemorates a doctor
who was very expert in anatomy, and displays a rather
gruesome skeleton on his grave, beautifully carved in white
marble. There are some larger ones which are very fine
indeed. The people of Spain, being Roman Catholics, take
delight in spending lavishly on things which to others seem
an utter waste of money. Some have lavished fortunes in
this way. The cemetery has been excavated from a rocky
hill which overhangs the Mediterranean Sea.
I left Barcelona for Madrid by the night train on May
5th, and next morning found myself in a rugged and moun-
tainous country, of which every available square inch was
covered with some crop or other. In hilly regions the rapid
flow of water does much damage to fields by carrying away
the soil. In order to prevent this happening, Spaniards
plant trees on the edge of the nullahs, or water-courses, and
at some places they turf it. Hill-men in India might adopt
this plan with advantage. When we were a few miles from
Madrid, the whole city came into sight, unfolding a magnifi-
cent panorama. We reached our halting place, the " Grand
Hotel de la Paix," at 11.30. It is not so good as the hotels
of Marseilles and Barcelona, and I experienced some diffi-
culty in getting a bath. In the afternoon we went for a
drive, hoping to see the library, but it was the closing hour,
so we could not get in. We visited the Botanical Gardens,
where we saw many very curious plants. There are two or
three conservatories here, in which tropical plants are
22 TRAVEL PICTURES
grown, but not on as large a scale as one might have expected.
Then we visited the old cathedral, which is a very solemn
building. A new cathedral is in course of construction. We
visited churches dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi and to
St. Isidore, patron of Madrid. The latter has a stupendous
dome and statues of the twelve apostles in Carrara marble.
The mural paintings are also fine works of art. Major
Benn, who knows Europe well, says that he has not seen
anything so fine elsewhere. In the cloisters are some monu-
ments of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, but the
wooden entrance doors were carved in relief by an artist
who is still alive. The church is really a grand and glorious
work. There is a public park in front of the royal palace,
which contains statues of some of the kings and queens of
Spain. There is also a recreation ground known as " High
Life Park," in which about two thousand carriages of all
sorts may be seen in the afternoon. All the ladies and gentle-
men were dressed in their very best, and enjoying themselves
after a fashion. Their carriages went round and round in a
circle, but I do not think there was much amusement except
from the splendid display of horses and carriages. After
dinner we went to the circus, where a box holding six had
been engaged for 50 pesetas, equivalent to 30 rupees. A
lady acrobat performed very difficult feats on a pole resting
on a man's shoulder. Then a model steamer was shown with
her captain. He mounted a ladder placed on a table without
any fixture, and then began to handle the ship in various
ways. He took her on his feet and ran up sails and flags,
illuminated the hull with coloured glass balls, lighted her
furnaces and got up steam. There were two buffoons
whose patter was amusing, and who performed some difficult
acrobatic feats. There was a bicycle ride in the arena,
quite excellent. A military march was shown on the stage,
which was very effective. Thought-reading was also done,
but it was nothing but trickery. Three men did wonderful
feats on horizontal bars, and at the close they leaped from
a height of 100 feet, and, falling on a net, walked away with
unconcern. Lastly, a smart negro in uniform introduced
four African elephants, which performed some very clever
, • " • • • ' ** •»>; J *
* ~' ' 31 * ''*dBSii
.^»^4^^^^^-?
^Wj«J
BARCELONA, A ROMAN GATEWAY
SUBURBS OF MADRID
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 23
tricks. There is a false impression in Europe that the
elephant of Africa cannot be domesticated, and they are
slaughtered in thousands to supply the world with ivory.
The paintings in Madrid are simply wonderful. The
people, being Roman Catholics, love to spend their money
on churches and religion. They are proud of their country
and have immense self-respect, but are very ignorant. The
standard of education in this country is very low in com-
parison with that of Western Europe. The Royal Armoury
contains a really good collection of arms and of means of
defence of the olden time. We visited the House of Lords :
it is a splendid hall. The Ministers sit on a sofa covered with
blue velvet, and the other chairs are upholstered in red. The
opposition party sit in front. We visited the library, where
the people in charge kindly explained everything to us. The
books in the library were dusty, which was to be expected,
as, according to the gentleman in charge, they are cleaned
only once in two months. The system of issuing books from
the library is as follows : A member of the public is supplied
with a brass ticket bearing a number, which enables him to
borrow one book from the library. He takes the ticket to
the index office, where the names of the authors and their
works are kept. He must give the name of the book with
its author's ; this enables the person in charge of the index
to find the reference number of the work required, and he
sends one of the servants to fetch the book from its place on
the shelves. A great drawback in this system is that, unless
one knows the name of an author, one cannot get a book
desired. There is a large circular reading-room in the centre
of the building.
The jail of Madrid is situated near the park : people who
suffer simple imprisonment are kept here. We drove further
on, and saw the asylum founded by the Queen of Spain for
the paupers and cripples. Its park will be very fine when
completed ; the natural scenery is very pretty. We saw
the house in which the notorious forger Madame Humbert
was living when arrested. From this place the river and the
portion of Madrid on the opposite bank look very picturesque.
In the evening of the 7th of May we dined at the British
24 TRAVEL PICTURES
Embassy with Sir Edwin and Lady Egerton, who were
delightful people and very hospitable. They did everything
in their power to make my short stay pleasant. In India,
when Europeans go into the dining-room, the gentlemen offer
their right arm to the ladies and seat them on their right.
When dinner is over the gentlemen stay behind, while the
ladies retire to the drawing-room. On the Continent, at the
end of a dinner, the gentlemen first take the ladies back to
the drawing-room, and then betake themselves to the
smoking-room. We had to observe the same custom. I
shall ever remember the hospitality of these charming people.
As it was the first time I had ever taken a lady into dinner,
I was somewhat embarrassed, not being certain whether
what I was doing was correct or not ; I therefore advise
any Indian gentleman of position who goes to Europe, to
learn all the rules of etiquette before he leaves India. I was
relieved of much anxiety when Major Benn assured me that
I had not made any mistake.
I was sorry that the King was not at Madrid. We saw
all the paintings in the picture gallery ; the collection is
indeed a grand one, nearly every school in Europe being
represented. We had very little time at our disposal, so
we saw everything in haste. Last night Sir Edwin Egerton
told me that there was no gallery in the world to match
that of Madrid. The pictures are really well worth seeing,
but at the same time one requires plenty of knowledge
before one can appreciate such work ; I wish I had learnt
something about it. I left a card at the Ministers' houses
who called upon me when I was away. The Prince of
Bourbon also called, but, unfortunately, I was not in the
hotel.
In the afternoon we saw a bull-fight. It was very cruel,
and I never want to see such a spectacle again. We did not
see the procession, as we were a few minutes late. From
what I have heard from other people, I conclude that it
rmist have been most picturesque. The picadores, dressed
in uniform and riding very lean horses, lead the way. I
must here explain that the persons who engage in a bull-
fight are of three descriptions. The Matador, or killer, is the
MADRID, A BULL-FIGHT, COMMENCEMENT
PLANTING BANDERILLAS IN THE BULL
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 25
principal. He is armed with a sharp, straight sword, and
he it is who kills the bull in the end. He has a number of
assistants, of whom those who attack the bull on horseback
with their lances are called Picadores, or prickers. The
others, who conduct operations on foot, are styled Bander-
illeros, because they use small barbed darts like javelins,
called " banderillas," which are ornamented with gay
streamers. When the procession has come into the arena
the picadores remain there while the others retire. Then
the President orders the bull to be let loose. As soon as
the bull enters, the picadores prick him with lances the heads
of which are only one or two inches long. He is lashed into
fury, and kills one or two of the horses. Sometimes the
picadores themselves are wounded. Then the President
orders the banderilleros into the arena. These plunge six
banderillas into the bull, after which the poor beast is
generally quite exhausted. Sometimes he is extra strong,
and then the President orders firework banderillas to be
used. One requires plenty of practice and skill in placing
them adroitly. The Spaniards know when to hiss and when
to applaud. Ladies also take much interest and delight in
this sport. At last the bull's strength is utterly spent. The
matadors are then ordered to put an end to its life. They
enter with their swords, and one of them stabs the bull
through the heart or lungs. It falls ; whereon another man,
with a hammer and sharp instrument, appears on the
scene and drives the instrument into the head of the bul],
which dies in a few seconds. Then a team of four or five
mules, gaily decorated, enters, and the dead animal is
attached to this team and dragged outside the arena, where
it is cut into pieces, furnishing beef-steaks, which people
eat with much relish. The day I was there, some bander-
illeros were wounded, and a matador, mortally. He died
two or three days afterwards. One picador lost an eye.
Thus I saw more in a short time than one would ordinarily
see in many years ; but I must condemn this practice as
utterly barbarous.
In the evening of the 8th May we left Madrid for Lisbon.
Next morning I found the train travelling through a very
26 TRAVEL PICTURES
rugged and mountainous country, but here again not even
the smallest piece of land has been left uncultivated. At
about 8.30 we reached a station on the frontier of Portugal.
Here the Customs authorities put wire round all our boxes,
and on the beds we had in the brake vans, in order that no
article could be put into them or taken out. A few miles
further, the country becomes more fertile than Spain.
Slopes on the railway line are covered with wild flowers ;
the honeysuckle and other plants growing in wild profusion.
The people of this country have a national costume which
differs little from that of the Spaniards. Before reaching
Lisbon we entered a tunnel which took seven minutes to
traverse, and we reached the station at 4.30. The hotel in
which we were staying has a private entrance to the station,
and thus a carriage is not required. It "is replete with
every comfort," as advertisements say. We had only just
time to take a drive through the city, which is much cleaner
than Madrid. The roads are very steep ; it is wonderful
that accidents do not take place every day. We saw a horse
fall when going down a hill, but he received no injury. After
dinner we went to the opera-house, which I should think
would hold ten thousand people, or even more. The piece
was in Italian, but translated from the English ; the pro-
gramme was in Portuguese, so we could not understand much
of it. The opera-house was very malodorous : everyone in
the stalls and boxes was smoking, and the stage loomed
dimly through a cloud of tobacco. Madame Maria Galvany
sang beautifully ; she has a powerful voice, and whenever
she appeared on the stage she was warmly applauded. The
whole opera was rendered with great delicacy and taste,
and I much enjoyed it.
On the loth May the British Minister, Sir Martin Gosselin,
called on me and said that I could be presented to the King
of Portugal the next day at 1.30. After a hasty luncheon
we left the hotel, and were just in time to catch the train for
Cintra. After leaving the tunnel the whole route is
surrounded with green fields and pretty villas encircled by
small gardens. We reached Cintra at 1.45, and, hiring a
carriage, drove straight for the Moorish Castle, which is
AT BAY
THE BULL 3 FUNERAL
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 27
more than a thousand years old. We saw a Moorish mosque,
and bath-rooms and water- tanks. The men in charge told
us that the water in the tank neither rises nor falls, but keeps
one level. Then we visited the late King's palace. Many
ancient tiles have been used in building it. We could not
see the valley below, as everything was covered with mist.
The garden surrounding the palace is beautifully kept.
There is a very good collection of camelias and azaleas, and
some rhododendrons and begonias, but rather a poor show
of roses. His Majesty is fond of tennis, and plays it in a
court on the top of the hill. At Cintra we saw the Queen's
palace, which has a chimney in the Arabic style built by the
Moors. We were very tired walking up and down the hill,
so we took some coffee at the Lawrence Hotel, which is
situated between the town and the hill. In the Queen's
palace we saw " The Swan " rooms, and the room occupied
by a king who was imprisoned there. The tiling of the floor
is deeply furrowed where he paced to and fro for eight weary
years. We left Cintra at a quarter to six, and, on regaining
our hotel, dressed ourselves in haste and left for the Embassy.
As I have said, the roads are very steep, and, although the
coachman was familiar with the place, he found it difficult to
steer his horses. Sir Martin Gosselin introduced me to Lady
Gosselin, his daughter and other ladies. After some time
we went in to dinner. I took Lady Gosselin in, and talked
about many things with her. fl find people who have not
been to India know very little about it. We returned at
n, after a very pleasant evening. On our way back an
accident took place. The horse of a policeman shied and
came down on the carriage. The policeman was thrown and
became very excited, but the coachman kept his presence
of mind, and so no one received injury. At Cintra I noticed
that coachmen were very polite ; they always give way to
others and do not quarrel, whereas in Madrid they are
always fighting one another.
At i o'clock on the nth of May we went to the British
Embassy. Lady Gosselin asked me to write my name in her
book of autographs in as many characters as I knew. I
have met a great many people during my visit to Europe
28 TRAVEL PICTURES
who are keen on getting signatures from other people.
Sir Martin Gosselin accompanied me to the palace. When
we leached it His Majesty the King was having luncheon,
and so we had to wait for a short time in a room with a
number of high officials of the State. I was introduced to
many of them. As soon as His Majesty had finished
luncheon he sent for us, and we were ushered into his
presence immediately.
I approached the King, who shook hands with me, and
then I introduced Major Benn. The" King spoke very kindly
to me, and I thanked him in a brief speech for granting me
audience. The conversation turned on Cintra. The King
asked me if I had seen the palace and the garden there. I
told him that I had, and thought that there was a good
collection of camelias and azaleas. I also told His Majesty
that I was very pleased to see a tennis-court there, and to
find that His Majesty takes an interest in English games ;
that we Indians had also taken up some English sports,
which had now become to a certain extent our national
games. Major Benn and I were in evening dress, as my
oriental costume had been sent on to London. On the Con-
tinent, when people visit others of rank they should wear
evening dress and a white tie. We looked rather funny in
that dress at mid-day. After luncheon we went to see the
Museum of Lisbon, where there is a good collection of stuffed
animals, and the rib of a mammoth which must have been
far larger than any animal now in existence. A great
variety of snakes and fishes is to be seen here. We saw a
whale suspended in the middle of the room ; at first it
appeared to us as a steam-launch. There are thousands of
skeletons of different animals, and a very good collection of
shells.
We went through the Botanical Gardens. There is an
avenue of palms which looked very pretty. Though the
palm is an Indian plant, Indians never grow it merely for
ornament. On our way back to the royal cemetery our
carriage collided with an electric car, but fortunately no one
was hurt. There we saw the coffins of the Kings and
the other members of the Royal Family of Portugal. The
PORTUGUESE PEASANT
LISBON
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 29
corpses of the grandfather of the present king and of
the Emperor Pedro of Brazil could be inspected through the
glass lids of their coffins. That of the late king was covered
with wreaths, crosses and crowns, which people had sent as
a mark of respect. We drove by the river Tagus and left
our cards on Sir Martin and Lady Gosselin. On our way
back, as our carriage was turning a corner, one of the horses
fell. Sir Martin Gosselin, having heard of the mishap, came
out of his house in a hurry, with a number of servants, to
help the coachman. Major Benn, with much pluck, jumped
down and sat on the head of the horse which had fallen. I
knew that he did this to keep the horse quiet, as it is often
the case that the head of an animal is the heaviest part of
the body, and the smallest weight put on it will keep him
from kicking. When the harness had been put right the
horse would not rise, and the people who were standing
there did not know what to do. But Major Benn slapped
the horse on his ear ; after the second stroke the horse was
up again on his feet. Since we came to Lisbon we have had
a series of accidents — many mishaps in such a short time !
Such things must be expected in this city of hills. After
dinner we went to the play. A lady, beautifully dressed,
came on the stage, holding two pairs of castanets, or small
discs of hard wood, which she struck together, keeping time
with the music and with movements of her pretty feet. We
left Lisbon at 8.50 p.m. on May I4th. Sir Martin Gosselin
came to say good-bye at the station ; it was really very good
of him to do so. He also handed me a letter addressed to the
Customs authorities of France.
Near Lisbon the country is very beautiful, but the further
we left it behind, the more rugged and mountainous it
became. The people of Portugal are more polite than those
of Spain. In our carriage there was an old gentleman with
his daughters, who were going to Paris. They were very
pleasant and spoke English well.
The peasants of Portugal and Spain are similar to those of
India. They have the same sort of ploughs, drawn by
bullocks, or mules. Horses are rarely used for agriculture
in these countries, and their heads are protected from the
30 TRAVEL PICTURES
sun by a sort of cap made of straw. The common people
are very ignorant ; they feel no shame in begging from a
stranger. One sees well-dressed boys and girls asking for
coppers at railway stations. This practice of begging is a
great curse for a country ; when it is once established it
can never be got rid of.
On the morning of May I3th we were near Miranda.
Though the country is not mountainous, it is undulating and
very picturesque. The fields look green and pretty with
wheat, barley, etc., but the cultivation of grape vines
predominate, and wine is very cheap. In India few are
fortunate enough to drink such good wine. Sir Martin
Gosselin told me that people made wine in such quantities
that if, before the next season came, they have not been able
to sell the old stock, they throw it away in order to find
room for storing the new wine.
The style of building houses in this country is somewhat
like that of India, but the people are more hard-working
than ours, and the produce of their harvest brings in more
money. At the same time their needs are many, consuming
their whole income. The winter is very severe, and a good
supply of fuel and warm clothing is required.
The country from Miranda to St. Sebastian is very
beautiful. At this place we saw the Bay of Biscay, which is
notorious for being rough nearly all the year round. About
3 p.m. we reached Bordeaux. The hotel in which we put
up is connected with the station, like that of Lisbon. Here
I learnt with dismay that there was no bath-room attached
to any bed-room. This was my first experience of the kind,
for all the hotels where we had stopped had bath-rooms.
The journey from Lisbon to Bordeaux was very dusty.
On European railways there are long corridor carriages,
holding about thirty passengers. In each there are two
lavatories, one for ladies and the other for gentlemen, but
there are no arrangements for bathing, and sometimes there
is little or no water for washing one's hands and face. I
learnt from Major Benn that bathing is a rare thing for
continental people to indulge in. I do not know how they
manage to live without cleanliness. I had to stay in the
CINTRA, A MOORISH CASTLE
MEDIAEVAL GATEWAY, BORDEAUX
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 31
carriage for thirty hours without a bath, and to me that was
indeed a great discomfort. Bordeaux is not so clean as
Marseilles and Barcelona, but in time it will improve, as it
is situated on the bank of a river. The sea is only sixty
miles distant, so that a tidal wave reaches here, and therefore
it may be practically called a port. The bridge across the
river is one of the best in Europe. It was built by Napoleon,
whose undertakings were on a stupendous scale ; in a very
few years he accomplished much, and the world has seen
very few to equal him. We visited Messrs. Calvert's wine-
cellars. The head of the firm took us all over the premises.
He showed us how the bottles were sealed ; when seen, the
process is very simple, but I had thought quite the contrary.
Then he took us to an immense range of cellars, where bottles
were ready for shipment. Next he led us to cellars where
casks were piled in spacious corridors. If all the wine which
is here in bottles and casks were to be put in one place, it
would fill a good-sized tank. Every cask contains 300
bottles of wine. Then he showed us a lift by which the
filled casks and empty ones are sent up and down. It is
really a very good arrangement. He told us that when wine
gets old it improves ; that some deposit settles in it at the
bottom, which makes it look richer, and that in every cask
the whites of six or seven eggs are used to clear the contents.
He was very polite to us, and spoke English very fluently.
He gave us photographs, and a short history of the firm.
Our guide took us to a tower which stands near St. Michael's
Church. It is very high, but as there was no lift we did not
care to go to the top. We were taken into an underground
room at the basement, in which there were seventy dead
bodies standing in a circle. The man who had the key of
the room told us these had been there for the last hundred
and fifty years. There was a cemetery on the ground
where the church was built, and in excavating the founda-
tions these dead bodies were found in good condition, so
they have been placed in the tower. Some of the corpses
had traces of clothing : one lady had a lace dress, and another
a bonnet. A whole family who had died of poison were
shown to us. The skin of these corpses resembles parchment,
32 TRAVEL PICTURES
and all the flesh has perished. After driving through the
streets and photographing a mediaeval gate, we returned
to our hotel, and left after dinner by the 10.30 train for
Paris.
In the morning of the I5th May we reached the brilliant
city of which we had heard so much. From a great distance
we could see its white and gilded domes. When I got up,
the train was going through fields and surrounding country
covered with charming vegetation. The horse-chestnut
trees were in flower, making a glorious show. As we neared
the capital, houses began to thicken. It was quite cold, and
I had to put on an overcoat. We reached the terminus, but
having tickets for a second one, we continued our journey
for a few minutes. Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son sent a man
to the station to meet us. We left our baggage in his charge.
Really Thomas Cook & Son have done wonders for the
comfort of travellers all over the world. This firm has
agents in every city who are ready to do anything in their
power to help foreign passengers, whether clients or other-
wise. Their system of issuing letters of credit is excellent.
They are furnished in exchange for money deposited with
the firm, and can be cashed at any bank or hotel with which
the firm has dealings.
At the station, carriages were waiting for us, and we lost
no time in reaching the hotel. We put up in the Elysee
Palace Hotel, which is very stately and comfortable. I had
a good sitting-room, which I used only for a short time, as
most of my stay was spent in sight-seeing. After leaving
the station we passed the Pont Alexandre, called after the
late Emperor of Russia, which is very spacious and beautiful.
In other cities which we have seen so far, the streets were
paved with stone-blocks, but here wood is in favour, to the
great advantage of traffic. There is hardly any street with-
out its avenue of trees. The houses are high and the archi-
tecture most symmetrical. The first day we only drove
through the city, noting all the important places from our
carriage. Our guide, a Mr. George, was an intelligent man ;
he took us to the other side of the Seine across the Pont
Alexandre, where a fair was being held for army pensioners
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 33
quartered in the Invalides. We saw the two huge buildings
which were erected for the Exhibition of 1900. One con-
tains a collection of paintings, and the annual exhibition of
artists, called the Salon, is housed there. The building
opposite it is a museum. Then we came to the Place de la
Concorde, a very spacious square. In the centre is a huge
obelisk brought from Luxor in Egypt, eighty years ago, and
fountains throw their water high. The square is surrounded
by statues representing the different cities of France. Those
of Alsace and Lorraine, which the French lost in the Franco-
German war, are decked with funereal wreaths and pieces of
black cloth to show that they are in mourning. When the
Empress of Germany paid a visit to Paris, the Government
ordered all the drapings and wreaths to be removed. This is
the place where two thousand five hundred unfortunates
were beheaded during the Reign of Terror (1793-4). A
broad thoroughfare, called the Avenue des Champs Elysees,
was once a deserted place, where the Duke of Wellington
encamped his army after capturing Paris in 1815. His own
quarters are now occupied by the British Embassy, which
is the best in Europe in every way, and generally coveted.
We saw a column made of two thousand five hundred guns
which Napoleon captured from the Germans and Austrians ;
it is surmounted by his statue.
After taking luncheon at a restaurant attached to our
hotel, we went to the race-course at Longchamps. The
restaurants are very beautiful and some of them exquisitely
fitted. French people are very gay and take delight in good
living. There is generally music at a restaurant, supplied
free of charge by the proprietor. In about an hour's time
some two thousand carriages had passed us ; there were all
sorts of conveyances, and automobiles are very popular.
There are bicycles also, worked by motors. We reached
the course after one race had been run. There were about
fifteen thousand spectators, deeply interested in the races.
We were invited to invest in the " Pari Mutuel," or total-
izator. I was rather puzzled, until Major Benn explained
the system. A lottery, it seems, is held on each race, the
tickets costing five or ten francs. One selects the horse he
c
34 TRAVEL PICTURES
thinks likely to win, and invests the cost of one or more
tickets on its chance of its coming in first. After the race
is run the whole amount is divided among the ticket-
holders who have backed the winner. One can also back
horses for a " place," i.e. bet that they will be among the
first three, but the profit is proportionately small. We
backed some horses, and the net result of the evening was
that we won forty francs. When the races were over we
drove back to our hotel through the Bois de Boulogne.
There were so many carriages that for a long distance
our horses had to go at a walk, and at some places we
were blocked and had to wait before we could proceed
further.
After dinner we went to the Comedie Frangaise, a sub-
sidised National Theatre, where " Hamlet " was being played.
We had intended to patronize an out-of-doors theatre,
but the magic word " Hamlet " was irresistible. Mounet-
Sulley, who played the Prince of Denmark, was simply
splendid ; he must be in the very first rank. As the play
was in French we had great difficulty in following the actors,
but were fortunate in securing a book of the words.
Madame Lara, who took the part of Ophelia, rendered it
with much pathos, and so did Mile. Dublay, who played the
part of the Queen.
Next day we passed a huge triumphal arch commemo-
rating Napoleon's victories, and, driving through the Champs
Ely sees, reached the Eiffel Tower, which is the highest
building in the world. It stands on four vast pillars and as
many arches, which support the whole construction of solid
iron. There is a lift for visitors which takes them to the
upper storey, as far as the public is allowed to go. One has
to change to another lift at every stage. There is a small
room at the very top, but it is reserved for M. Eiffel, the
engineer who designed and built this tower. He has now
gone to America, to give his opinion on the Panama Canal.
On every stage there are shops for the sale of trumpery
articles and silly penny-in-the-slot machines for revealing
one's character and fortune. From the upper floor we
could see the whole of Paris, as it was fortunately a fine day.
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 35
The Champs de Mars, formerly a military parade-ground,
lies on one side of it ; it was used for the Exhibition of 1900.
On the other side rises the Trocadero Palace, built for the
previous Exhibition of 1878, set in trim gardens with foun-
tains which enhance their beauty. The river Seine flows
between the Eiffel Tower and the Trocadero. Thence we
drove to Versailles, a mighty palace built more than two
hundred years ago by Louis XIV. It contains a good
collection of pictures, which, though numerically not larger
than that of Madrid, has many finer paintings of battles,
some of which are the largest that I have ever seen. One
represents an Algerian battle, in which the French took a
Moorish Sultan prisoner. It is of the same length as the
room, and was painted to the order of a Rothschild, who
afterwards declined to purchase it, so the artist painted
Rothschild's grandfather as an Algerian Jew escaping with
his money-bags. Poets and painters are apt to take such
revenge ; Firdausi, the author of the " Shah Ndma," played
a similar prank as regards Sultan Mahmud. No visitor to
Paris should omit Versailles. We saw the room where Queen
Victoria changed her dress when she visited Paris in 1855,
during the reign of Napoleon III. The gardens and park
which surround Versailles are very stately. There is a very
fine avenue of chestnut trees, and I noticed the wild myrtle,
which looks very well in a shrubbery. There are innumer-
able fountains which play with wonderful effect. The
exterior of the palace is rather patchy in architecture, but
inside it is worthy of a great king, being richly furnished
and decorated. Napoleon I. took a fancy to the palace,
and arranged some rooms after his own taste, but it was too
vast even for his all-embracing mind. We saw the gallery
of mirrors, where William I. was proclaimed German
Emperor in 1870 : what must the shade of Louis XIV.
have thought of the sacrilege ? At a smaller palace, called
the Trianon, hard by, we saw the State carriages. There are
few old ones, for when the Republic was proclaimed in 1792,
everything belonging to the throne was smashed or sold. A
handsome new one was built when the present Tsar of
Russia paid a visit to France. On our way home we visited
36 . TRAVEL PICTURES
the site of the St. Cloud Palace, destroyed during the Franco-
Prussian war. Now there is no trace of any buildings left,
but a beautiful little garden is laid out with nice trees and
flower beds. Here Queen Victoria of England stayed in
1855. From a terrace above this place Napoleon was fond
of reviewing his Capital. After seeing the barracks, fortifica-
tions, and the village of Sevres, famous for its porcelain
manufactory, we returned to our hotel. After dinner we
went to the opera, where " Rigoletto " was given ; some of
the singers were very good. The opera-house is really
magnificent.
In the morning of May I7th we visited the Louvre. This
is an extensive square of buildings, in the centre of which is
a statue of Gambetta, the first President of the present
Republic. This ancient palace is so called from a sort of
chimney (Louvre) which once crowned its roof. It contains
a vast collection of pictures, a museum of antiquities, and
innumerable things of curiosity and beauty dating from the
Middle Ages. In one of its apartments King Henry IV.
was married, and here he died in 1610 from the effects of a
wound given by an assassin. In this room there is a splendid
mantel-piece which was designed by Jean Goujon, who was
shot there by a sentry as he was a Protestant. In another
room we saw a famous statue called the " Venus de Milo/'
because it was discovered in the island of Milo, which belongs
to Greece. It represents the best period of Greek Art, and
always has a throng of admirers. Then we were taken into
a room which King Henry II. prepared after his own taste.
The deep wood carving to be seen in the ceiling is really
exquisite. There is also a portrait of Courbet by himself,
and one of Napoleon's Coronation, in which the new Emperor
is seen crowning his wife Josephine. In the Gallery of
Apollon we saw portraits of the eminent persons, men and
women, of old France worked in Gobelins tapestry, the crown
of Napoleon and his sword, two fine diamonds and a ruby,
and also " The Wedding of Cana," a perfect picture. In
another State room there are two huge vases, which are so
constructed that, if a man speaks slowly into one, the listener
will hear the same words issuing from the other vase. At
VERSAILLES, GARDEN FRONT
GARDENS
THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 37
the Louvre we saw the first Venetian glass, which was
presented to Francis V. by a Doge of Venice in 1541.
Before coming to Europe my Diwan told me not to
forget to see the map of France which the Russian Govern-
ment presented to the French nation. In this map a very
fine ruby represents Paris, and diamonds and other precious
stones the important towns and cities of France. Then we
went to the National Library, the largest in the world. It
contains five million books, and a very fine collection of
manuscripts. From this place we went to the Cluny
Museum, a restored mediaeval palace and monastery, con-
taining vast collections of antiquities. One room is solely
reserved for boots and shoes ; I should think there are about
two thousand pairs of old shoes of the queerest make.
Afterwards we saw Notre Dame, one of the finest churches
in Europe and one of the oldest, its foundations having been
laid in noo. It was in this church that Napoleon I. crowned
himself and his wife. Near Notre Dame is a mean building
called the " Morgue," where dead bodies found in the city
of Paris are kept for some time for identification. If no one
claims the corpse it is buried, after being photographed.
Nothing of this sort is done in any other country ; and I
think the plan a very good one. After dinner we saw
Sarah Bernhardt at her own theatre. I was simply spell-
bound by her golden voice : there was also a young actress
who would improve if she would only persevere.
At 9.43 in the morning of May i8th we left Paris for
Calais. The country we passed through is monotonous
though fertile at first, but Normandy is really beautiful.
Here I saw ploughs drawn by oxen, which are used for other
agricultural work. Normandy is noted for good cheese and
butter, due to the abundance of fodder. The cattle are in
excellent condition. The Seine, which flows beside the
railway, is very picturesque, with trees growing on its banks.
The hills covered with verdure and well tilled fields blend so
nicely that the landscape is entrancing. We reached Calais
at about 1.30 p.m. ; and in five minutes' time we were on
board the steamer " Pas de Calais," which left at 2.15 and
reached Dover in two hours. The sea was fortunately not
38 TRAVEL PICTURES
so rough as usual. The best thing one can do on board ship
is to sit in the middle, as the motion is felt least there. Ten
minutes after we had left Calais we saw something white on
the horizon, which later on proved to be the chalk cliffs of
England. When we reached Dover, the weather was so
fine that I took some photographs of the harbour and the
forts which overlook it. Our train for London entered a
long tunnel, through a hill called Shakespeare's cliff, as it is
supposed to be alluded to in one of his plays. The railway
carriages which run between Dover and London are inferior
to those of continental lines. After travelling for an hour
and a half we observed huge clouds ahead, which, as we
approached, turned out to be the smoke of London. This is
the greatest agglomeration of human beings in the world ;
we were in its suburbs at fifteen miles' distance from London
proper. The city is so immense that no one who has not
seen it can possibly form a correct idea of its size. We
passed through a belt of country houses, occupied by people
who go into London for business every morning, returning
after the day's work. The late Sir Curzon Wyllie most
kindly met us at the station and brought a carriage for me.
I was exempted from the Customs' duties, and as Major
Benn had caused labels to that effect to be put on our boxes
we had no difficulty in getting them on our arrival in London.
We drove to the Alexandra Hotel, dropping Sir Curzon
Wyllie near the India Office.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
CLEOPATRA S NEEDLE
CHAPTER III
LONDON
AN excellent suite of rooms had been reserved for me at the
Alexandra Hotel, overlooking Hyde Park, which is one of
London's prettiest sights. As well as the endless flow of
carriages," a great many hansoms are to be seen. These
are one-horsed vehicles, seating two people inside. The
driver, who is perched on a high seat outside, receives any
instructions required to be given through a trap-door in the
roof. The two-horse 'bus, accommodating some thirty per-
sons, is also a great convenience. Then there are electric
tram-cars running in all directions outside the city, but not
allowed within its limits. A frock coat and top hat are in-
dispensable for London, so Major Benn kindly instructed Hill
Brothers of Bond Street to come for the necessary orders.
The needful head-gear was supplied by a well-known firm of
patters, who used an instrument for automatically register-
ing the shape of the head. The process, though simple, is
very successful, and a perfectly fitting hat the result.
The late Colonel Sir Curzon Wyllie called and asked me
whether I had suitable dress to wear on the occasion of the
Court, which was to be held on May 2oth at Buckingham
Palace. In the afternoon I wrote my name in the visitors'
books at Buckingham Palace, Marlborough House and
Clarence House. While driving back through Piccadilly and
Hyde Park, I noticed a number of long, narrow iron boxes
standing on the roadside, in which dust and other rubbish
are collected, prior to their removal by cart. In Hyde
Park there are thousands of chairs, which anyone may use
39
40 TRAVEL PICTURES
on payment of one penny. I also saw the Serpentine, an
artificial lake in Hyde Park, so called because its bank is
a series of graceful curves. There are some quaint people
who bathe daily here and in the Thames at 5 a.m., having
to break the ice in winter before they can get into the
water.
On May 20th a Court was held at Buckingham Palace,
and I received a gracious invitation from His Majesty to
attend it. Before going to the Palace we visited the studio
of Mr. Langfier, where Major Benn and I were photographed.
He has a splendid studio, fitted with electric light, for taking
photographs at night. There was a big camera on castors,
and by revolving a wheel a strong light could be produced.
A circular stand, to which about fifty electric lamps were
attached, was used to diffuse the lights ; with fine muslin
forming a screen between them and myself. The artist
exposed the plate for three seconds ; but I could not see
much, being anxious to reach the Palace by 9.30 p.m. A
carriage card sent to me beforehand contained full instruc-
tions for our coachman as to where to take the carriage and
where to drop us. After walking through many long cor-
ridors we were met by Sir Curzon Wyllie, and at 10.15 p.m.
I was taken into a room, where he presented me to His
Majesty. After making three bows, the first at the entrance,
the second at half distance, and the third near the King,
I met with a very kind reception, His Majesty speaking
to me in a musical voice, with a sweet smile on his face.
He enquired whether it was my first visit to England, and,
upon my answering in the affirmative, asked whether I
had seen any other European countries before coming
here. I said that on my way to England I had been to Spain
and Portugal. Then he said that he sincerely hoped I
should like England, adding that I spoke excellent English.
It was the kindly disposition of His Majesty which prompted
him to say this. With a pleasant manner he introduced
me to Her Majesty the Queen, who shook hands with me.
After this we went to the White Drawing Room, where
their Majesties soon followed, attended by high dignitaries.
They stood in front of two arm chairs, while the Diplomatic
LONDON 41
Corps was presented, after which they took their seats.
Then the ladies who were to be presented entered one by
one, wearing sumptuous dresses with long trains. Some of
them were exceptionally lovely and carried bouquets which
harmonized with the colouring of their attire. They curt-
sied to the King and to the Queen, who sat on his left hand.
The Ministers of China and Korea were in their national
dress, which was very picturesque, and not unlike that of
India. About eight hundred and fifty presentations were
made. The Prince of Wales stood on the right-hand side
of the King and the other members of the Household were
also present. I stood a few feet behind the Prince of Wales.
The whole ceremony was most impressive and beautiful.
The room in which the Court was held is very large ; there
were quite a thousand people, with space to hold as many
more. In front of their Majesties, on a balcony above the
chief entrance, a string band discoursed excellent music
at intervals. In this room twenty-one brilliant electric
lights, hanging from the ceiling, turned night into day.
The Court being over, we proceeded to the rooms where
supper was served ; after partaking of some fruit tart, I
left for the hotel. The arrangements for summoning
carriages were excellent. Upon reaching the entrance one
name has to be given to the man in charge of the telephone,
which is connected with a house outside, and in a minute's
time the carriage is at the door. Upon reaching the entrance
I found it raining, but this did not deter thousands of people
from collecting in the streets to see those who had attended
the Court. The police and other people on duty were kept
very busy.
One should certainly pay a visit to the Army and Navy
Stores, a vast edifice consisting of four or five storeys. In
London all buildings have a basement floor, used either as
store rooms or for cooking. The other day I saw on the
street side receptacles for dust and rubbish, and to-day
noticed some boxes filled with gravel, which is spread on the
road to prevent horses slipping. There is a " Messenger
Boys' Brigade," which employs little fellows of eleven to
sixteen in carrying letters, parcels, etc. The usual fee is
42 TRAVEL PICTURES
sixpence, but for greater distances a higher sum is charged.
They are chiefly sons of old soldiers, and very reliable ;
anything may be entrusted to them for delivery. A
question which is becoming more and more serious every
day in London is that of procuring servants. A company
called the " Motor Dinner Company " has been started for
supplying people not only with meals at fixed hours, but
glass, china, knives and forks, napkins, etc. If a person
has friends coming to dinner, he has merely to telephone
to the company the number of guests expected and the
hour ; at the time arranged a car arrives with all that is
needed — even waiters. After dinner the room is cleared
and everything removed. These people also supply wine.
I really think that there is a company for everything
in London ! Soldiers who have been disabled in one way
or another, or are out of their time, find employment as
Commissionaires (answering to our Jemadars) in shops and
other places. The police arrangements are excellent. The
constables are generally sturdy, obliging, and ready at all
times to give any help people may require at dangerous
crossings. Traffic in this city is enormous, but at the same
time the hand of a policeman, when it is raised, is more
powerful than a sword. Every driver must rein back his
horses, and wait until the policeman makes a sign to him to
proceed. Sometimes carriages are blocked, but only for a
minute or two ; in less than no time they begin to move on
again, and the road is clear once more. If a conveyance
is desired, it is necessary to decide whether it is to be a
" hansom " or a four-wheeled cab, usually known as a
" growler/' from the rattling it makes. Two whistles will
bring a hansom and one a growler. In London the letter
boxes are very large ; some twenty years ago similar ones
were introduced into India. Many of the shops are closed
after twelve o'clock on Saturday, not only in London, but
in most parts of England ; this enables the employees to
get away for a short holiday. The people are very hard-
working, and really stand in need of this well-earned
rest. Shops and offices are entirely closed on Sunday,
making the business quarters, which during the week are
LONDON 43
busy and lively with people, look like a city of the dead.
Few persons are to be seen where, on a week-day, there is
hardly room to move.
We drove through Hyde Park, which faces our hotel.
There were thousands of people enjoying themselves in
different ways. Some were sitting on chairs or benches,
others walking with their friends, whilst others again were
listening to the amateur preachers and orators who hold
forth there on Sundays. I heard singing, too, at several
places. Crossing Westminster Bridge we obtained a fine
view, from the opposite side, of the stately Abbey. We
also saw St. Thomas' Hospital, consisting of seven detached
buildings for the reception of the sick. Returning by way
of Waterloo Bridge, we passed the magnificent Hotels Cecil
and Savoy, both extending from the Embankment to the
Strand ; we saw, too, the " Metropole," " Victoria " and
Grand," all of which stand in Northumberland Avenue.
Fire-alarms occupy very prominent places in the streets.
When a fire breaks out someone immediately rushes to one
of these and smashes the glass of a small case containing a
handle, which, when pulled, communicates with the nearest
Fire Brigade Station, intimating the number of the alarm by
means of electricity. Upon receiving this signal the fire-
engine, is brought out, the horses harnessed, and the whole
apparatus arrives at the scene of the fire in an incredibly
short time.
As we drove along I noticed straw spread on the roadway,
and learnt that this is done when someone is seriously ill in
one of the houses in that street, as a sign to the passer-by not
to make a noise, and also to deaden the sound of the traffic.
I think this an excellent plan, which might well be adopted
by other countries.
After driving through the Park, we went on to Padding ton
Station, which the King always uses when visiting the West
of England. Near the railway bookstall our attention was
attracted to the figure of a stuffed dog standing in a glass
case, which, during its lifetime, collected something like £800
for the widows and orphans of the company's servants. It
used to go about the station with a box hung round his neck,
44 TRAVEL PICTURES
into which the people dropped their contributions. These
may still be given, for there is a slot at the foot of the case in
which he now stands.
Observing a man sitting on the pavement with a broom, I
learnt from Major Benn that he was a crossing-sweeper, who
earns his bread by keeping the crossing free from mud.
There is also a class of people who gain their livelihood by
carrying luggage. When one of them sees a cab loaded with
boxes, he runs after it to its destination, hoping to be allowed
to remove the luggage and receive a " tip " in return. I was
astonished to hear that both the crossing-sweepers and the
men who run after the cabs have a code of honour — that is
to say, one crossing-sweeper would never take the place of
another, neither would a man who follows cabs endeavour
to outrun a comrade. At fairly frequent intervals in the
streets and squares small moveable houses for cabmen are to
be met with, where they can prepare and eat their food.
These must be a great boon to the men, especially in winter.
At convenient distances, too, are troughs of water for horses
to drink. I should not have thought that animals required
much water in such a damp, cold climate. There are also
arrangements for supplying drinking water to man as well as
beast. Stands made of marble or other similar stone are
placed at a suitable height, and furnished with iron vessels.
Any one requiring a drink of water has merely to take up the
cup and press a tap. This arrangement would not be prac-
ticable in India, where a man of one caste cannot drink water
out of a cup used by one of another. When we noticed these
drinking arrangements, we were on our way to see the " Cart-
Horse Parade," which takes place every Whit-Monday in
Regent's Park. Many of the carts were beautifully decorated
with flags, and the horses were also specially adorned for the
occasion, their tails being plaited with ribbons of different
colours, and the harness cleaned up so well that it shone
brilliantly. Some of the horses were really splendid ; I do
not think I ever saw so large and excellent a collection. The
municipal authorities do not allow unfit horses to be driven,
by this means preventing cruelty to animals, and doing good
work for dumb creatures. This parade encourages both
LONDON 45
owners and drivers to keep their animals in prime condition,
prizes being offered for the best ones shown. I shall cer-
tainly introduce this parade into my State for the Ekka
ponies, which are generally in a miserable plight.
On the following day we took a motor car — undoubtedly
the most convenient form of conveyance — and journeyed to
Hampton Court, which we reached in three quarters of an
hour, going straight to the Mitre Hotel. After depositing
our coat and books, we proceeded to the Hampton Court
Palace. This stately building — one of the finest of England's
royal residences — was built by Cardinal Wolsey, in 1515,
for himself, and eleven years later presented by him to
his royal master, Henry VIII. It contains nearly a thousand
apartments, a large number of which are occupied by royal
pensioners and other favoured persons. We went round
the magnificent State Rooms ; these contain a fine collection
of paintings and tapestries. There is a very old clock, the
dial of which is divided into twenty-four parts, but the
figures run from one to twelve, this number being repeated.
The signs of the zodiac are also represented on the other
side. Then we wandered through the quaint old-world
gardens filled with choicest flowers, admiring as we went
the ever-green turf. The river is seen at its best from here,
and the view is wonderful.
Our next visit was to Mr. Herbert Birdwood, I.C.S.,
Major Benn's uncle, who is a notable amateur gardener.
He took us over his garden, which, though small, is full of
beautiful flowers, including Indian plants, which he takes
great trouble in rearing. His wife is also most agreeable,
and took much interest in my visit. This gentleman has
two sons in the Indian Army, one of whom is on the staff
of Lord Kitchener. He showed me a very good collection
of Boer War trophies, which his son had sent him while
serving in South Africa.
Taking Mr. Birdwood with us in our motor car, we went
on to Kew Gardens, and there saw various houses containing
orchids, palms, cacti, ferns, begonias and other flowering
and aquatic plants. The whole show is quite unique, but
one requires plenty of time to go through it carefully, for
46 TRAVEL PICTURES
it is so vast and contains nearly everything of interest
in the botanical world. There are long stretches of turf,
broken here and there by beds of rhododendrons and
azaleas. Well worth a visit, too, is a house containing
samples of wood from many parts of the world, some of the
specimens being very large.
In the evening we went to a restaurant, where Major
Benn entertained us with tea and ices. His mother and
sister were also present. I liked them both very much,
and was pleased to make their acquaintance. We returned
home in our car, accomplishing the journey in half an hour.
Motor-car driving was a new experience to me, and I quite
enjoyed it, and was grateful to Major Benn for the sugges-
tion. The London hotels, as a rule, present their accounts
for settlement weekly ; I think this an excellent plan.
After luncheon on May 26th we drove to the Agricultural
Hall, where His Majesty the King was to open the Royal
Military Tournament. The hall, a great building of about
1000 feet by 200, is roofed in with glass, and used for im-
portant cattle shows and trade exhibitions. The appearance
of the King and Queen in the royal box was the signal for
the National Anthem. As it died away, an outburst of
cheering broke from the seven thousand spectators present.
The seats in the hall were divided into different colours.
We occupied some in the balcony, coloured blue, from which
we obtained an excellent view of all that was going on.
Some of the feats performed were splendid. There was a
musical ride of a six-gun battery, drawn by the same number
of horses ; they made all sorts of curves in a very small
space, and were, if possible, cleverer than their drivers.
Another musical ride by cavalry, which took place next,
appeared very difficult, but was most interesting. Each
horse walked, trotted and cantered, keeping time ; then
they crossed one another at a gallop, just as they had done
previously at a walk or trot. Here I saw for the first time
a game of push-ball. The ball used was four or five feet in
diameter and inflated with air. The horses had to push
it from the centre to one or other of the goals. This was
quite a new thing to me, and I enjoyed it immensely. The
LONDON 47
battery exercises, shown by sailors, were also very good.
In one moment the guns were ready to be fired on the
enemy, in another they were all packed in a box, and an
instant later they were taken to pieces and lying on the
ground. The sailors did everything with extraordinary
rapidity. The heat of the hall had made me feel quite
tired, and I was glad to get into the fresh air. When we
came out there was an enormous crowd at the door, and
we had to wait nearly half an hour to get our carriage.
Later on I dined with Sir Curzon and Lady Wyllie. They
asked me a great many questions about Rajputana, where
they had been for a long time. It was a great pleasure
to see them again. Sir Curzon did his best throughout
my European tour to make it a success in every way, for
which I was most grateful to him : none of his friends
deplored his cruel fate more deeply than myself.
On the morning of May 27th we visited the Horse-Guards
at Whitehall. During the day two gigantic Guardsmen
occupy sentry boxes on either side of the entrance, and
shortly before n o'clock daily the operation of " Changing
the Guard " takes place. This is an interesting spectacle
conducted in a very smart manner. In order to serve in
the Guards, a man must be very tall and well built.
They are the King's special troops, and usually form his
escort.
On the evening of the same day I dined with my old
friend Major Evans Gordon and his wife, the Marchioness
of Tweeddale. It was an unbounded pleasure to see them
after so long a time ; I was so completely at home with
them that I felt as if I were in my own house. They did
everything in their power to make me happy, and I shall
never forget the kind way in which they received me. They
have a charming house facing the river. After dinner
Major Gordon showed me some photographs taken at Jhal-
rapatan while he was there, which reminded me of the
troubles we had in Jhalawar in 1895-6. The next day,
May 28th, I went to Queen Anne's Mansions, where Major
and Mrs. Bruce were staying. This is the highest block of
buildings in London, and the only one with twelve storeys.
48 TRAVEL PICTURES
It is a huge place, but looks very ugly ; such edifices cannot
be otherwise while the main idea in building them is to make
money. Major and Mrs. Bruce kindly accompanied me to
the Zoological Gardens, which I had not visited until then.
They were anxious to see a snow-leopard they had brought
from Kashmir. The admission fee is one shilling each. I
purchased a catalogue for sixpence, and wondered how they
managed to sell such a well-illustrated book for so small
a sum ; I suppose the great number sold makes them pay.
We went through the gardens, which are beautifully laid
out. Some of the houses seemed very small to me ; in
India we build far larger ones, but, with the variable climate
of England, these smaller houses are probably better for
their inmates, as in winter it would be difficult to keep
spacious rooms warm. Several of the animals we saw here
were quite new to me ; among these were the kangaroo,
hippopotamus, giraffe and ant-eater. I consider an ant-
eater the ugliest of all animals, whilst next in this respect
comes the hippopotamus, with no hair at all, and eyes
protruding from its head. We had our tea close to a band,
which played at intervals. On my way back I called at
Major Gordon's house. I was shown into the drawing-
room, where Lady Tweeddale greeted me with a smile and
asked me to take some tea, which I did, as in London it is
considered impolite to refuse.
On the evening of the same day Major Benn returned
from Guernsey, where he had been staying with his wife
and father-in-law. He reached the hotel at 9 p.m., and
I was indeed glad to see him back. Guernsey, which is one
of the Channel Islands, belongs to England, and is celebrated
for the excellence of its fruit, flowers and tomatoes. The
inhabitants have Home Rule, and make their own local
laws. Their Parliament consists of the Bailiff and a certain
number of members called " Jurats," the latter being drawn
exclusively from the oldest families ; no new-comer could
possibly be elected. The island is triangular in shape and
very small, being only nine by five miles in extent. Sixteen
policemen are sufficient to keep order. New residents are
not called upon to pay income tax for the first three
LONDON 49
years ; this is doubtless to attract people to settle on the
island.
On May 2gth Major Benn and I lunched with Lady
Tweeddale and Major Gordon. I had told Major Benn so
much about them that I wanted him to make their acquaint-
ance. After luncheon we made our way to Westminster
Abbey, which we reached whilst the service was proceeding.
The organ is very fine, and as the clear voices of the
choristers rose and fell to its accompaniment, the effect
was most beautiful. The Abbey was crowded with people
and every seat occupied, so we had to remain standing.
The London roads are paved with blocks of wood cemented
with hot tar. I do not think these would succeed in India,
on account of the high temperature ; the wooden blocks,
too, would wear away in no time.
On our way to visit St. Paul's Cathedral we called at
the William's Typewriter Company, as my machine was
out of order and I wanted to have it repaired. I asked
whether any improvement had been recently made in the
machine, and was shown a great many interesting things,
and the manner in which various difficulties had been over-
come. Then we went into the cathedral, which is a magni-
ficent building. There are many fine monuments erected
to the memory of the heroes, artists and painters of the
country. In the centre of the cathedral is Nelson's tomb, on
which is engraved his last signal at Trafalgar — " England
expects every man to do his duty " — what a beautiful
sentence ! We saw, too, the tomb of the Duke of Welling-
ton and the carriage which bore his remains to the cathedral.
Then we went to the Whispering Gallery — so called because
the slightest whisper against the wall of one side is distinctly
heard on the other ; a distance of more than 100 feet. The
gallery runs round the interior of the dome, and is a wonder-
ful piece of art and science. Mounting still higher we came
to the Golden Gallery, from whence a magnificent view over
London is obtained, finally reaching the Ball, which meant
that we had ascended 616 steps. I was very tired with
going up all these stairs, and Doctor Ramlal was simply
miserable. Amongst many other interesting things we were
50 TRAVEL PICTURES
shown Sir Christopher Wren's original model for building
the cathedral, also various paintings and mosaic work, as
well as the library containing 12,000 books.
Before my trip to Europe I did not care for fish, for that
which is kept in tanks does not compare with what ^comes
straight from the sea. At a restaurant known as " Sweet
ings " every course consists only of different sorts of fish
served with vegetables. This place should certainly b<
patronized by people desiring the best fish. I saw then
many devouring their lunch while standing ; these were busi
ness men, who are always in a hurry, and appear to me tc
sacrifice comfort to money making.
Although a little late, we were in time to see the State pro-
cession of the Lord Mayor, who drove in a quaint, old-world
coach, accompanied by his sister, to perform the ceremony
of opening an exhibition of pictures at the Guildhall. The
coachman and footmen wore curled and powdered wigs and
rich liveries. We were received at the entrance to the Guild-
hall and taken inside, being given carte blanche to wander
about and see what we liked, but there was such a rush that
I did not care to do so, as it is not possible to see or enjoy
anything under these conditions.
On our way back to the hotel we visited the National
Gallery, where works of British painters are, to my mind,
better represented than those of the foreign schools of paint-
ing. Though the building does not compare with the Louvre,
it commands a good view of Trafalgar Square, so named in
commemoration of Nelson's great victory. On the southern
side there is a statue of the hero himself perched on a high
column, and in the centre handsome fountains are always
playing.
After dinner we went to the Royal Court Theatre, where
" Timon of Athens " was advertised to be played. I was so
anxious to see a play of Shakespeare's on the stage here, but,
unfortunately, the doors of the theatre were closed, and we
were unable to gain admission, as the play was stopped owing
to the illness of the lady who was to play the principal part.
Such a thing seldom happens in London. Through the tele-
phone we managed to secure a box at the London Hippodrome,
LONDON 51
where I passed a very pleasant evening. The acrobatic
and balancing feats were first rate, whilst eight girls did
some wonderful tricks on bicycles. The performance con-
cluded with a play entitled " Siberia," in which the scenery
was particularly good, the representation of falling snow
being most realistic. For the final river scene real water,
ten feet in depth, was turned on, into which both men and
horses jumped. The whole show was excellent, as also the
arrangements for obtaining refreshments.
When London streets are under repair a canvas hut is
erected to prevent passers-by from using the unfinished por-
tion, and to serve as a shelter to the watchman. At night
lanterns with red glass panels are hung up as an additional
precaution.
London maybe called the centre of all the arts and sciences,
and consequently everything of the best is to be found there.
Mr. Langfier, the artist, brought my miniature on ivory ; it
was very good indeed. I showed him some ivory paintings
of Delhi which I had with me. He could hardly believe
that they were done in India. No doubt the Indian artist is
a good copyist, but this industry seems gradually dying out.
On the last of May I and my party dined with the
Marchioness of Tweeddale and Major Gordon. After dinner
we drove to the Houses of Parliament, which are immense
buildings overlooking the river. First of all we saw West-
minster Hall, 800 years old, and ranking first among the
historical buildings of the Empire. The wood- work of the
roof is simply wonderful ; it was preserved from destruction
in a great fire which consumed the adjoining Houses of
Parliament in 1834. Major Gordon showed me the spot
where King Charles I. stood when he was tried and finally
condemned to death. He next escorted us to seats in
the gallery of the House of Commons. A committee was
sitting at the time, discussing various questions. Major
Gordon, who was a member, made an
and others also spoke on different subjects, fl could not
help noticing, however, that members were not always
attentive to the speeches, and I wondered how under these
circumstances they knew which way to vote.
52 TRAVEL PICTURES
As the House of Lords was closed, and would not re-open
until the following month, Major Gordon showed us over the
dining-rooms used by the Ministers and Members and also
the Library ; the latter chiefly contains Acts of Parliament
and other documents connected with Government. After
this he entertained us to tea on the terrace which overlooks
the river ; it was pleasant sitting there in the open air, and
watching the endless stream of people and carriages passing
to and fro over Westminster Bridge. There is a saying that
whenever one looks at this bridge one is sure to see a white
horse pass over it. After receiving these kindnesses from
my friend Major Evans Gordon, we proceeded to Messrs.
Hatchards', the booksellers. It is a treat to go into London
shops, the people are so polite, and will always give any
information connected with their particular line of business.
I wanted to purchase one or two books on Buddhism, and
was brought several on the subject, one of which, the Life
of Buddha, had been just recently published. The books
were arranged very nicely according to their subjects ; those
on Japan and Russia occupying prominent places, as the war
was in progress at the time.
After dinner we went to the Prince of Wales's Theatre,
where we saw " La Poupee " — a very amusing piece. Miss
Edna May, who took the principal part, is a beautiful woman
and charming actress.
On Derby Day we left Victoria Station soon after noon,
reaching Epsom Down about one o'clock. Special trains
are run on these occasions, so that we did not stop at any
intermediate stations, but, in spite of Major Benn's precaution
in having a compartment reserved for us, three passengers
were, at the last moment, hurled into our carriage. The
guard who put them in had probably been " tipped." The
practice of tipping is prevalent in every country, but I
should say that there is less of it in India than elsewhere.
In England it is quite as bad as on the Continent, for if a
man of the people only answers a civil question he seems to
expect something. The weather was fine when we left Vic-
toria Station, but we found it raining on our arrival at Epsom,
and learnt that it had been pouring there since early morning,
LONDON 53
with the result that the road — if such it could be called —
from the station to the race-course was in a terrible condi-
tion. It is at Epsom that the world- wide, famous " Derby "
is run. Vehicles of all kinds, from donkey carts to four-in-
hands, were requisitioned to convey visitors to the course.
On stand and race-course alike people were packed like
sardines, for the English are very keen on this sport. We
did not see the first race, as we were taking our luncheon at
the time. When we reached our seats every place was filled,
and there was hardly standing room. The people were en-
joying themselves immensely in different ways — one was
to be seen giving a series of performances, another was
making a speech, in fact everyone was doing something either
to amuse himself or his neighbour. A great deal of betting
was going on, both among men and women, and the
" bookies " were busy trying to persuade people to bet.
Before the Derby was run there was a heavy thunderstorm,
and the rain came down in torrents. The horses were taken
out of the paddock where they were ready saddled. Many
thought that the French horse " Gouvernant " would win.
Out of mere fun I asked Major Benn to back "St. Amant "
for me, and gave him £5 for this purpose. As the horse was
not a favourite he stood at 5 to i bar i. Now of course our
interest became more keen in the race. The horses were
taken to the starting-place, and were soon off. " St. Amant "
led from the first. I had little hope that he would keep it,
but fortunately he did, and won the race, so, though we got
wet through and our silk hats were spoilt, I won £25 in return
for the £5 staked on " St. Amant."
Next day we visited the Royal Mint. No one is allowed
to enter here without a special permit ; this we had, and so
were admitted, and shown everything connected with the
Mint. First of all we were taken into a room where gold and
silver is received in bars, and saw many of these lying about.
In a room adjoining the silver ingots are melted and cast in
bars of a suitable size. A portion is then sent to the alloy
office to be analyzed, and the chemist reports whether each
bar contains the necessary alloy of copper for coining. The
melting furnace comes next ; here everything is done by
54 TRAVEL PICTURES
hand, whereas in the silver room machinery is employed.
We then saw the bars being flattened to the required thick-
ness for coining, after which the pieces were weighed, and, if
of the correct weight, stamped in a powerful press. All the
stamping is done at once, and a very interesting process it
is. After being cleaned coins pass through a special machine
which sorts them into three different boxes — " right weight,"
" too heavy " and " too light." The latter are returned for
re-melting, whilst coins of correct weight are handed over
to boys for testing, which they do by flinging them down,
one by one, on a block of iron. It was very interesting to
watch this testing process, and to note how instantly the
boys detected the slightest defect ; they must require very
keen hearing for this work. Last, but not least, of the
wonderful machinery was that for reckoning the coins. We
saw it counting sixpenny pieces for Hong-Kong, after which
they were packed in wooden boxes to be sent out. Each
box contained two bags, and each bag 5,000 sixpences. Full
details are sent daily to the authorities for checking progress.
Before leaving we were taken to a room where obsolete coins
and medals are kept, and shown, too, the new Great Seal of
England which was under preparation, finally visiting the
place where dies are engraved.
In the evening we visited the Apollo Theatre, where
" Veronique " was being played. I consider it the best
piece I have seen in London, with the exception of the
" Duchess of Dantzig." There are many tea-rooms here,
where people go to drink tea and invite their friends to meet
them. A separate room can be reserved if desired, but for
any one who wishes to see London life it is better to take a
table in the public room.
On June 3rd we visited Westminster Abbey. The Bishop
of Calcutta, who takes a great interest in Indians, and said
that they were always welcome at the Abbey, kindly acted
as our cicerone, and showed us everything of interest. He
first led us to the high altar, and then to the tomb of Edward
the Confessor, which is in the centre of the Abbey. The
Coronation Chair next claimed our attention, beneath rests
an ancient stone brought from Scotland in 1297. Upon this
LONDON, THE MARBLE ARCH
THE RIVERSIDE AT STAINES
LONDON 55
the Scottish kings were crowned for many centuries, and it
has served the same purpose for every English monarch
since the time of Edward I.
Through Major Gordon's good offices I was fortunate
enough to make the acquaintance of Mr. Lindsay, who is
in charge of the Heralds' College, or College of Arms ; he
showed me the crests and badges of the Royal Family
of England and other important personages. I admired
the clear handwriting in the registers, and the painting of
the crests. He also informed me that, on account of the
antiquity of the documents, the rooms were made fire-proof.
I found Mr. Lindsay was greatly interested in different
religions, and he asked me, amongst other questions, the
meaning of the word " Nirvana/' which I explained to him.
After my visit to the College of Arms I drove to Queen
Anne's Mansions, where my friends Major and Mrs. Bruce
were residing. These mansions are very large, but the rooms
struck me as low ; the long corridors especially so, in com-
parison to their length. I noticed at the door of the lift an
indicator placed to show its position at the moment.
On June 4th the Lord Mayor invited me and my suite to
luncheon with him. Thakur Umrao Singh and I put on our
oriental costumes and drove to the Mansion House. Dr.
Ramlal was unfortunately unwell, and therefore could not
accompany us. We stopped at Messrs. Van Dyck & Co.'s
to be photographed. When leaving the studio some people
in the crowd took snap shots of us, probably because we were
in Indian dress. We reached the Mansion House at the
appointed hour, 1.30, and were received by the daughters of
the Lord Mayor, who joined us himself a few minutes later
and escorted us to the dining room, where the table was
decorated with beautiful flowers. At luncheon I sat on the
right of the Lord Mayor, while upon my right was one of his
daughters, who most kindly showed me every attention ; I
greatly admire these English ladies, who converse so well,
and have the power of making a stranger feel so completely
at his ease. After luncheon we saw the chief room, known
as the Egyptian Hall, where as many as 300 people can be
entertained at State functions. The Lord Mayor also showed
56 TRAVEL PICTURES
me the gold plate of the City of London, and cups of the same
metal, used on special occasions for drinking wine, when the
health of some royal or other distinguished visitor is proposed.
Under the guidance of the head butler we visited the kitchens
where the famous turtle-soup is prepared, as well as the place
where huge joints are roasted by means of a simple con-
trivance called a " jack/' which keeps the joint revolving,
thus enabling it to roast equally on all sides.
The same evening we went to the theatre to see " Miss
Elizabeth's Prisoner," and greatly enjoyed the acting of both
Mr. Lewis Waller and Miss Grace Fane.
Madame Tussaud's Waxwork Exhibition, which we visited
on the following day, greatly interested me. It is a large
collection of wax figures, of both ancient and modern cele-
brities. Some of them are really excellent ; especially so
are various groups of the Royal Family, whilst the figure
of the late Queen Victoria, writing at a table, is beautifully
done. Wonderfully executed, too, is a tableau depicting
Napoleon's death. The gruesome " Chamber of Horrors,"
which contains England's most notorious criminals, also
claimed attention. We then went on to the Tate Gallery,
a handsome building containing some fine examples of
modern British art. The fountains playing in various parts
look very beautiful amidst the green foliage and plants sur-
rounding them. There is a good garden at the back of the
building.
I was very anxious to pay a visit to Mudie's Circulating
Library, which I did. The premises look insignificant from
outside, but directly we entered we were simply bewildered
by the enormous piles of books which met our gaze. They
were arranged in open bookcases, looking like streets of
books, and leaving only sufficient room for a man to pass.
The Librarian took us round and showed us everything,
explaining, among other things, how subscribers obtain
and change their books. He then led the way to the book-
binding department, a most interesting part of the work,
where all the stages through which a book has to pass in
process of binding were seen by us.
We went to His Majesty's Theatre in the evening, where
LONDON 57
we saw the " Merry Wives of Windsor," Falstaff, Mistress
Page and Mistress Ford being played respectively by Mr.
Beerbohm Tree, Miss Ellen Terry and Miss Constance Collier,
and creditably indeed they sustained their parts. This was
followed by a new play entitled " The Man who Was,"
written by Rudyard Kipling, and dramatized by Kensey
Piele.
Next day we saw the Victoria and Albert Museum, a
large building to which additions are still being made. The
ground floor is devoted to metal work, tapestries, carpets
and other antique articles, whilst the upper storeys contain
paintings, engravings and books, as well as furniture, por-
celain, lace and many other beautiful things, which required
a great deal more time to see thoroughly than we had at
our command. As we left the Museum I saw a street artist
drawing pictures on the pavement with pieces of coloured
chalks. It was wonderful to see such effects produced with
so little material. All the pictures were good, but two of
them specially pleased me, one being of a ship and the
other of a small snow-covered house in the woods.
When an Indian Chief visits London he has to call upon
the Secretary of State for India. I therefore called on
Mr. Brodrick in my Indian costume. A red cloth was spread
from the carriage to the house ; this is a mark of honour
paid to Indian Princes. Sir Curzon Wyllie received me
at the head of the staircase, and conducted me to Mr.
Brodrick's private room. He asked me about the Mayo
College and the future developments of the educational
system, and I told him that we wanted more higher and
technical education. The conversation next turned on my
stay in England, my son's education in this country, then on
the anopheles mosquito, which introduces germs of malaria
into the human system, and finally on the treatment of
lupus by the X-Rays.
My visit to a Ladies' Club was quite a new experience.
Mrs. Rew, Major Benn's sister, kindly entertained us to tea
at one to which she belonged, and afterwards showed me
round. The rooms are comfortably furnished, and have a
telegraph system by which the latest news which comes
58 TRAVEL PICTURES
to London is printed as received. In the smoking-room
I saw one or two ladies indulging in cigarettes. rTrftoes"ho^
seem proper for ladies to smoke, and in my hnmhte npnypnj
this practice lessens their charm. Pr was "entertained at
seeing a placard bearing the word silence " in a room set
aside for writing and similar occupations. Here ladies are
not allowed to indulge in their favourite habit of talking ;
if this state of affairs continues for long, the fair sex will
become as reserved as men folk, and then society will be dull
and lifeless. At present one sees ladies chatting all day
without being tired, but the new system will, after a time,
make them dumb and mute, for any habit a woman wants
to cultivate in herself develops very quickly. I asked Mrs.
Rew whether they had a lady secretary, but learnt that a
man held the post ; this gave me an opportunity for making
a little joke. No one can enter these clubs except by the
invitation of a member ; even the husbands of members
must remain outside unless invited.
After dinner I went to the Northbrook Society, wearing
my Indian dress. I was received most warmly, and nearly
every one present desired an introduction. I took Lady
Wollaston in to supper. There were many people present
who had spent long periods in India.
Having but little room at their disposal, Londoners often
make a garden of their window ledges, and there are a good
many books written on this subject. We bought a few
plants for my room. One can buy anything in the shape
of geraniums, lilies, roses, ferns and even trees bearing
fruits, all of course in pots. The " red rambler " is a charm-
ing creeping rose, which produces lovely bunches of flowers.
Our next visit was to the Tower of London, which at
various times has served the purposes of a fortress, palace
and prison. The Chief Warder showed us over, and before
entering the Tower drew our attention to the " Traitor's
Gate," through which the Princess Elizabeth, afterwards
Queen of England, passed in as a prisoner. We were shown
the Regalia, consisting of the crowns, sceptre and other
ensigns of royalty used by the Kings and Queens of England,
all of them ablaze with jewels. Here, too, were to be seen
LONDON 59
swords of state, their scabbards glittering with precious
stones. Then we went on to the Armoury, a valuable col-
lection originally formed by Henry VIII., and added to by
succeeding monarchs, amongst which are some interesting
specimens of Indian armour. The cell in which Sir Walter
Raleigh was imprisoned, together with dark crypts and
dungeons, were pointed out to us, the warder finally taking
us to the spot where the block used to be set up for execu-
tions, and a chapel which contains the bones of many an
illustrious victim. We were shown the window of the room
where the two little princes were murdered by order of their
uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III.
We next visited the British Museum, which is so vast a
place that it would take a lifetime to know it thoroughly.
An official kindly took us to the Library, in the centre of
which is the famous Reading Room, a circular hall accommo-
dating about 500 readers, the majority of whom come there
for purposes of research. The printed catalogue alone con-
sists of some 800 volumes. The arrangement of the books
is so admirable that new volumes can at once be placed side
by side with others on the same subject. This Museum is
on such an enormous scale, that no one can realise what it
is like unless they have seen it.
After dinner we went to the Vaudeville Theatre, where the
" Cherry Girl " was being played. The plot was common-
place, and altogether more like a pantomime than a play.
The following day we left London from Victoria Station
at 4.40 p.m., reaching the Crystal Palace in half an hour,
and after mounting a few hundred feet found ourselves in
the midst of a beautiful garden, having the Crystal Palace
in the background. A little further on we came to the Polo
Ground, which is quite different to those of India. The
latter, owing to our dry climate, are very hard, and a faster
game is played on them than is possible here, where the
dampness of the atmosphere renders the ground much
softer. I was pleased to see two teams playing polo, but I
did not care to watch the game for long, as it seemed to me
a poor affair after our faster play. We had a ride on the
switch-back railway, and were much amused. The Palace,
60 TRAVEL PICTURES
a huge building entirely made of glass, is chiefly composed
of the materials used in the first Industrial Exhibition of
1851 ; it was designed by Sir Joseph Paxton. Desiring to
see something of the view, which we understood extended
into eight counties, we ascended the tower by means of a lift,
but the weather was unfortunately not sufficiently fine
to allow of our seeing very far. We determined to try
the water-chute, and were soon in the boat, sliding down the
rails, which landed us a moment later on the surface of the
water of a small artificial tank at the foot of the tower. I
found the sensation both exciting and pleasant. We dined
at a restaurant in the Palace, after which we went to see the
fireworks. The display was excellent, and closed with a set
piece showing a naval engagement between the Japanese
and Russians. I greatly admired the beautiful effects pro-
duced by the changing colours on the fountains. We
reached our hotel at about n p.m., having had a most
pleasant time at the Crystal Palace.
Another day we visited the East End of London, which
is the poorest part of the metropolis. Accompanied by the
Rev. J. Watts-Ditchfield, Vicar of St. James the Less, we
started on a tour of inspection. He showed us the existing
chapel used for his Sunday and other services, and then
took us to see a new building in course of erection. Some of
the rooms here were to be reserved for medical purposes,
and others utilized by the men and women of the parish as
clubs. This clergyman seems doing a great deal of good
for the poor people under his charge. We went on to a
school where boys and girls were being taught ; the method
of teaching seemed excellent, and the Kindergarten system
had been recently introduced into the school. From the
balcony we saw a may-pole dance performed by eight boys
and girls, some of whom looked quite young ; they did it
very nicely indeed, keeping perfect time. We noticed that
the rooms in which classes are held can, by an arrangement
of sliding shutters, be turned into larger halls when necessary.
The Vicar showed us the rooms used by young women for
cooking purposes, and where lessons in this art are given ;
we saw also some others to be utilized as reading rooms.
LONDON 61
I next visited the house of Mr. Dore, a weaver whose Hugue-
not ancestors came to England from France during the
persecutions of the seventeenth century. The art of weaving
had been practised in his family for several hundred years.
He was an old man, and proudly showed us everything with
the greatest eagerness. He had made the velvet for the
robes of their Majesties the King and Queen on the occasion
of their Coronation, and produced for our inspection two
pieces of velvet which he said were of the same material,
and of such fine texture that one square inch contained
32,000 threads ! I had never seen such rare and beautiful
velvet before, and the old weaver assured me that so fine a
fabric had never before been made in the world. When we
came in he was engaged on weaving some material such as
priests use for binding their sacred books. He gave me a
photograph taken of himself in the act of weaving the velvet
for their Majesties the King and Queen. As he had not at
the moment any figured silk on hand, we went on to another
man who was making some. It is wonderful how these
people can produce such exquisite material on looms which
are 200 years old. I was startled to learn that much silk
made in England is sent to France, the same pieces being
reshipped to England as French silk, and charged at a higher
price on this account ! After this we were taken to a house
of a poor woman whose business was making match-boxes.
If she toils for eighteen hours she can only earn is. 3d. to
is. 6d. This is very hard work, and I saw how she made
the boxes. Thin wood, cut into proper lengths, is supplied
to the woman by the firm employing her, and it has to be
made into boxes with paper pasted round them. The paper
is also supplied free, but the woman has to prepare and pro-
vide the paste. She had two children, and only one room in
which to live and do her work. In India the sum of is. 3d.
to is. 6d. a day would be considered good wages, but it is
not so in England, where higher house rent, heavy taxes
and the greater cost of food and clothing make living so
dear. We saw other two women making fancy boxes ; this
is also haid work at poor remuneration. We went next to
the " Workman's Home Club," or Hotel, which is furnished
62 TRAVEL PICTURES
with beds and cooking rooms. Here a man can either cook
his own food or get it prepared for him at a small cost. In-
toxicants are not allowed ; if a man gets drunk once it is
overlooked, but on a repetition of the offence he is turned
out of the house. Drinking too much is at all times to be
discouraged, especially in people who cannot afford to
indulge in so injurious a habit. We were taken on to the
top of a house to see a roof garden. This reminded me of
India, though in England there are no terraces, and owing to
the cold climate one cannot really enjoy sitting on a roof.
That night we attended a State Ball at Buckingham
Palace, which took place in the room in which the Court
was held. A seat was assigned to me in the Ambassador's
Gallery, from which I obtained a good view of all that was
going on. It was pretty to see the dancing, as well as the
dainty dresses and beautiful jewels of the ladies. The King
and Queen looked both well and charming. It was late
when their Majesties left the room, and I stayed only a short
time longer, as the crowd was so great that there was
hardly any space to move about in. It took us half an hour
to cover a distance of hardly 50 feet.
The following day we visited the Royal Academy of Arts,
a fine building in which annual exhibitions of pictures are
held. It is considered a great honour for an artist to have
his work accepted and hung here at all, and still more so
if he is fortunate enough to secure a place " on the line/'
i.e. on a level with the spectator's eye. Each year new
pictures are shown, and the old ones, if not sold, are either
sent to other picture galleries or returned to the owner, as
the same picture can never be hung twice in the Royal
Academy. Some of them are very fine. There are separate
rooms for water-colours and miniatures.
CHAPTER IV
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD; SHEFFIELD,
MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL
AFTER visiting the Royal Academy's Exhibition we drove to
the London Hospital, which is situated in the East End,
and were received at the entrance by the Hon. Sydney
Holland. First of all we were taken to rooms which are
kept open day and night for the reception of accident cases.
If the injury received is serious the patient is detained in
hospital, but if only slight he is sent home after receiving
proper treatment. Then we passed to the out-patients'
rooms, full of applicants, where two doctors on duty were
busy either attending to them or writing prescriptions, which
were subsequently made up and handed to the patients
through a small window. My eye was attracted by some
notices I saw in the Hebrew character hanging up here ;
upon enquiry I learnt that many Jews resided in this part
of London, and that it was for their convenience that these
notices were written. Later on Mr. Holland told me that a
wealthy Jew gave £13,000 to the Hospital on two conditions —
first, that his name should not be made public, and secondly,
that every patient should be treated alike, without distinc-
tion of creed or race. I think this a noble gift, and the con-
ditions simply splendid. When a patient who has been under
treatment for some time is not cured, he is seen by a specialist,
and if, after examination, a surgical operation is found to be
necessary, this is done in the best possible manner. Mr.
Holland then took us to the room of Mr. Rigby, Professor
of Surgery, who was at the moment explaining a case of
nerve lesion to the students. The patient had received an
63
64 TRAVEL PICTURES
injury to his shoulder some time previously, which had
affected his nerves, and he had consequently lost the proper
use of his fingers. After this we were taken into the apart-
ment where the medicines are prepared. Here I saw some
clever pieces of machinery. One of them mixed medicines
with marvellous rapidity ; whilst there were others for
making up dry and wet tabloids and pills. The dry are made
from powder, pressed with such force that it becomes har-
dened into tabloid form ; the wet ones by mixing the drugs
well, and then preparing a layer of the mixture of the thick-
ness required, which is cut into tabloids by the machine.
There are other machines for grinding and purifying medi-
cines. Passing on, we came to where the X-Rays apparatus
was shown. I put my hand into it, and in a second my bones
were visible. When my hand was under the rays I felt
some slight shocks of electricity. We also saw some Radium,
which shone in the darkness ; the property of this substance
is to emit energy without ceasing. We were shown, too, the
" Light " treatment room for the cure of Lupus. It is fitted
with two great lamps, one of which was presented to the
Hospital by Her Majesty Queen Alexandra. One lamp
gives sufficient light to cure four patients at a time. They
have to lie down, and the nurses keep the light on the spot
where there is any sign of disease. It is so strong that no one
can remain under it for more than one hour, the specified
time for treatment ; a small instrument is therefore used,
something like a compass with thick glasses, between which
cold water is kept running continuously. We next made
our way to the operating theatre. Previous to an operation
the room and everything to be used — even the hands of the
surgeon and his assistants — are sterilised, that is to say,
purified from possible microbes, and made safe for operating
purposes. Instruments both for amputation and boring
were to be seen here ; the latter will not cut any soft portions,
but only bones. A special room is appointed for the clean-
ing of instruments, and hot water is always ready for the
purpose. Here we also saw the different substances used
for sewing up wounds. Silk was formerly utilized for this
purpose, but as it caused pain and suppuration to the patient
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 65
it has been replaced by guts of varying thickness and strength,
which disappear altogether after some time. The strongest
is the tendon of a kangaroo's tail, which takes a year to
absorb. The arrangements for eye treatment are perfect
at this Hospital. The room is dark in which cases are
examined, but contains separate cells, each of which is fitted
with an electric lamp, giving a strong or weak light as de-
sired. This was a novelty to me, as I had never seen an
electric lamp which could be raised or lowered at pleasure.
Then I was taken round the wards, which looked very com-
fortable. The thing which struck me most was a moveable
screen which can be placed round any bed, securing privacy
for its occupant. Choloroform is administered to patients
before they are removed to the operating theatre. By this
simple means the patient is saved the distress of seeing the
preparations ; I consider this a most humane practice. A
room was also shown me where the high-frequency current
treatment, more generally called the " electric bath," takes
place. Two more valuable instruments were brought to our
notice ; one was the Crystoscope fitted with an electric light,
by the help of which everything can be seen in the bladder,
and the other the Lithotrite which, being very powerful, can
crush a stone in the bladder into fine pieces in a short time.
In passing through the wards I came across a Punjabi
student who was suffering from acute pneumonia. My heart
went out to him at once, and I begged that he might
have special attention paid him. He had come to England
to pass some examination, and may be useful to India by
and by. This place is certainly full of wonders, and I was
delighted with everything I saw.
Visitors to London should certainly make a point of driv-
ing through the small villages situated in its vicinity, more
particularly those standing on and about the banks of the
Thames, many of which are extremely beautiful. There are
open spaces, too, such as Wimbledon Common and Hamp-
stead Heath, where Londoners often go to enjoy a holiday,
though many of them may never have seen the real country.
It was a great pleasure to me to make the acquaintance
of Mr. Elliot, once tutor to the present Gaikwar of Baroda.
66 TRAVEL PICTURES
This gentleman and his wife are most agreeable people, and
do their best to make the visit of any Indian coming to
London pleasant and profitable. Many English people are
deeply interested in Hinduism and Buddhism. On the even-
ing of June I2th, when dining with Major Gordon, I met a
lady who was much attracted by different religions, and
asked me a great many questions concerning them. Indian
ladies might well learn from their English sisters to take a
more intelligent interest in educational and other matters.
Mr. Sutton, of Reading, the head of a well-known firm
of seedsmen, asked us to lunch with him on June I3th. We
left London in two motor cars -at 10 in the morning, but
just on the outskirts of Slough one of our tyres punctured,
which delayed us for some minutes there. From this place
we could see Windsor Castle, which looked stately and beauti-
ful, towering above the plain, an imposing symbol of the
world- wide British Empire. We resumed our journey,
hoping to reach Reading in a short time, but unfortunately
another bad puncture took place near the Crown Hotel,
to which we went while the motor car was under repair,
engaging a room to wait in. At this place the street was
gaily decorated with flags, as His Majesty the King was
expected to drive through the place during the afternoon.
After refreshing ourselves with some tea we started again
for Reading, but at Maidenhead a third firework-like ex-
plosion of the tyre took place which necessitated another
rest, and we put up for a while at the Bear Hotel, on the roof
of which is the figure of that animal. Our chauffeur was
much vexed at these repeated accidents, but we assured him
they were not his fault, and that we knew he was doing his
best for us. We reached Reading about 3 o'clock, tired out
and begrimed with the road dust. Upon arrival at Mr.
Sutton's house we found luncheon still waiting for us, and
felt both ashamed and unhappy at having kept it for over
two hours. The luncheon was served very nicely, and the
flowers on the table most artistically arranged, but I could
not enjoy it greatly, I was so tired. After luncheon Mr.
Sutton took me round his beautiful garden. I much ad-
mired Reading and the surrounding scenery, the hills in the
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 67
distance covered with trees looking very picturesque. Mr.
Sutton had us conveyed in two carriages to see the premises
where seeds are packed and prepared. These huge buildings
cover six acres of ground. The sowing season having com-
menced, his whole staff were out in the fields, so there was
not much going on within doors. What struck me most was
the place where seeds are dried. They are placed in a room
heated from below ; when this room attains a certain degree
of heat and the seeds are quite dried, they are packed in
hermetically-sealed tins. Mr. Sutton, senior, showed us the
room in which the King had lunched some time previously.
Then we inspected the offices where the money transactions
of the firm are conducted. The system of filing is excellent,
and is the same as that used in the Library at Madrid. Pass-
ing on to the trial grounds, Mr. Sutton showed me various
glass houses containing a marvellous collection of flowers
which are sent to London for exhibition. We went to one
in which melons were being grown ; the method of cultiva-
tion was quite new to me, it was accomplished by means of
hot gas tubes running through the house to maintain the
temperatures favourable to their growth. Mr. Sutton gave
us some melon, which was delicious. Then he took us
over the trial grounds for vegetables, where he showed me
different kinds of lettuces, and a particular sort of potato
which is immune from the diseases to which other varieties
are subject. At this place I also saw many kinds of turf
planted in squares, which looked beautiful. The different
sorts, he explained, were grown to suit different coun-
tries. I much enjoyed seeing all these various things con-
nected with gardening, and shall ever remember the sight of
the beautiful flowers I saw there. Reading Station commands
a good view of the surrounding country, which is adorned
with lovely streams, green hills and grassy meadows. It is
here, too, that the river Kennet runs into the Thames. I
left with a pleasant sense of the kindness and courtesy shown
me by Messrs. Sutton & Co., and felt very glad to have made
their acquaintance.
On the morning of June I4th we went to see the Bank of
England, and were most kindly received by the Governor,
68 TRAVEL PICTURES
who took us round the various rooms on that floor. In the
room where we waited were busts of the founders of the
building, and we particularly noticed here a finely carved
chimney-piece, whilst the one used for committee meetings
is larger and equally handsome. What is now termed " the
Garden " was formerly a churchyard, for the Bank occupies
the site and nearly the whole parish of St. Christ opher-le-
Stocks. An assistant was deputed to go round and show us
everything of interest. We were first conducted to a cham-
ber where bank notes are kept, and saw, not only safes filled
with these precious pieces of paper, but were allowed to
handle a packet containing notes worth £1,000,000. We
next visited the bullion room ; here bars of gold were lying
about as if of no value. We were shown bags of sovereigns,
too, as well as coins of different dates. After this we visited
some places which we understood needed a special permit,
rarely granted. One was a room where sovereigns and
bullion are weighed, the scales for this purpose being of the
greatest perfection and accuracy ; whilst in another we had
the opportunity of seeing the intricate processes of printing
bank notes, about 50,000 of which are issued daily. The
currency notes for India are also produced here, and on the
day of our visit they were printing Rs. 5 ones. It is won-
derful to see the rapidity with which all this is done. A
blank piece of paper goes into the machine and comes out
a printed note, ready for use. There is a special machine
for automatically changing the number, whilst quite a recent
innovation is the printing of the latter in both corners of the
note, whereas formerly it was only in one. Notes paid in
are cancelled at once, but filed for five years, after which
time they are destroyed. A collection of old notes bearing
the signatures of various important personages is still pre-
served, and was shown to us, as also several forgeries, most
ingeniously fabricated. There were still older ones, some of
which were dated back to the seventeenth century.
Visitors to London should not fail to avail themselves of
the steamboat service, the boats of which make daily trips
for a trifling fare up and down the river Thames during the
summer months. There are numerous piers, or landing
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 69
stations, at which travellers may embark or disembark, and
all classes of people patronize the steamers in fine weather,
some for trips only and others as a means of getting to and
from their work.
Wonderful tricks are to be seen at Maskelyne & Cook's
Hall of Magic. I saw some very good ones the night I went
there ; one where a man was put into a box, which was then
heated, but when the door was opened he came out of it
quite uninjured.
1 shall ever remember June I5th, the day on which Pro-
fessor Dewar gave a lecture at the Royal Institution on the
liquefaction of air. He received us most courteously, and
escorted us to his lecture room, or theatre, where we took
our seats. He spoke so distinctly that we were able to follow
every word. First he showed us carbonic acid, frozen solid,
looking and feeling like snow ; that he said was below zero,
but the temperature of liquefied air was still colder, being
240° below zero. Next he demonstrated the action of
liquefied air on various metals and other objects, showing
us, for instance, a rubber ball which was elastic before being
immersed, but afterwards becoming rigid and so brittle that,
when the distinguished Professor threw it against the wall,
it broke and fell on the ground in a thousand pieces. The
effect of liquid air on sparklets, which are very elastic, was
that they could be ground into powder. He then poured
liquid air upon bromine and chlorine gases, which froze them
to the spot as it entered the vessel. These gases were
coloured respectively reddish orange and greenish yellow.
The next experiment consisted of the making of liquid
air, which he illustrated by means of some he held in
his hand, showing its effect on a tube through which a
current of electricity passed, as well as upon a rose, which
it made so brittle that a touch reduced it to a fine powder.
He then proceeded to demonstrate its action upon non-
phosphorescent substances, such as ivory, wax or paraffin
candles, silk, cotton, etc., afterwards bringing to our notice
a few things which expand under the action of cold, such as
rubber and water. The eminent professor next showed us
the colour of the air through the spectroscope, which it
70 TRAVEL PICTURES
proved to be blue, as black bands appeared on the blue band
of the instrument. He finally delighted us all with an ex-
hibition of liquid air rising like a fountain, and producing
most beautiful effects. My good fortune in having Major
Benn with me led to my making the acquaintance, through
his introduction, of Mr. Savage Landor, the celebrated
traveller, explorer and author, who seemed to know nearly
everybody of interest and importance in London.
On the morning of June i6th we got up a little earlier
than usual, and left at 9 o'clock for the headquarters of the
Graphic newspaper, which are situated in Tallis Street. I
wore my Indian dress. The Manager, who was at the door
to receive us, led us to his office and showed us various
rough sketches received from correspondents, and improved
upon by himself. We then went into the composing-room,
where there were several desks fitted with cases for holding
the various kinds of type. The compositor was instructed
to show me how it was all done, and he complied by setting
up a few lines of type under my portrait. Passing on to
the printing-room, the Manager suggested that I should
press the handle of the machine and print my own portrait
and the letterpress just set up beneath it ; this I did,
and he was good enough to present me with several copies.
The casting-room was our next destination ; here plates
are stereotyped. When a passage of type is set up, an
impression of it is taken on a sheet of plaster of Paris ; this
is put into a metal case, on which liquid lead, or surma, is
poured. The plate is next placed in an electric bath, where
it is first coated with copper, then plated with nickel. After
this long preparation it is ready for use, and sixty thousand
impressions can be printed from it. Previous to being
placed in the electric bath the plates are cleaned and scraped
with fine instruments, which act on it as though it were
made of wax. We were then taken to the printing-room,
where we beheld a truly marvellous machine. A roll of
blank paper is inserted at one end, and comes out at the
other as a newspaper, printed, stitched, folded and ready for
sale. The knives are very sharp, and cut thick folds of paper
as easily as one would slice through a radish. Hardly less
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 71
wonderful was a machine which indicated how others were
working and at what speed. This is accomplished by means
of a dial bearing the number of each separate machine.
When a particular one is working, its corresponding number
on the indicator lights up, whilst a bell attached to the latter
marks the revolutions the machine in question is making
per minute. The entire machinery is worked by electricity.
We completed our tour of inspection by a visit to the room
where the paper is stored on which the Graphic is printed.
The following day we attended Ascot Races, leaving
Waterloo Station at 12.35 P-m- and reaching the course
about an hour later. We passed through some charming
and well-timbered country, the hills and plains being covered
with well-cultivated fields. Upon reaching Ascot we de-
cided to walk to the stand, and as our road lay through a
beautiful garden, resplendent with rhododendrons in full
bloom and fir trees which gave out a pleasant perfume, we
enjoyed it greatly. We at once took our seats on the
second tier of the stand, and shortly afterwards the royal
procession was seen approaching.
I had already singled out as my favourite a horse called
" Wild Oats," which won the first race. Before the second
was run we started for the Cavalry tent in the hope of
obtaining luncheon. There were crowds of people, and when
at last we reached the tent, so many were standing at the
door that we had to wait half an hour before we could effect
an entry. It was during this waiting time that I noticed an
Irishwoman with a brush in her hand attempting to brush
down a gentleman, to his evident annoyance. Upon catch-
ing sight of me, she crossed over and began to talk, brushing,
meanwhile, my angarkha, or coat. Major Benn requested
her to desist, but as she would not do so, he told her that
there was no use in addressing me, as I did not know her
language. I had therefore to keep quiet to prove the truth
of Major Benn's assertion, and after a time we managed
to get rid of her. Major Benn kindly entertained me to
luncheon in his club tent, where I had an excellent meal.
After luncheon we returned to our seats, and I was fortunate
enough to back the winner of the Gold Cup.
72 TRAVEL PICTURES
There were many ladies present, as it is supposed to be
the fashionable race meeting of the year, and some beautiful
dresses; white, pink, light blue and mauve being the favourite
colours, although there was a sprinkling also of dark and
light green, dark blue and yellow.
After the King's departure we walked back to the station
by the same path that we had come, and upon arriving there
the rush was so great that it was a difficult matter to find
seats at all, so we pushed our Way into a third class carriage —
my first experience of travelling in one. I was not sorry to
have the opportunity of seeing what they were like. The
seats were quite comfortable, though perhaps not so soft as
those of the first class, and I noticed that the backs were
padded much in the same way. I think that Indian railway
companies might well endeavour to give the same amount
of comfort to third-class passengers as is enjoyed by English-
men. The cost of travelling third class in England is one
penny per mile, whilst in India it is only a halfpenny for the
same distance. After dinner we went to see " The Prince
of Piisen " at the Shaftesbury Theatre, which was a farce
rather than a play. The scenery was pretty, and both music
and acting good.
In the afternoon of June I7th we visited the Royal Victoria
and Albert Docks, the Hon. Sydney Holland kindly accom-
panying us. Here are great warehouses for grain, tobacco
and frozen meat. He took us first to see the place where
tobacco is stored, for which there is an immense market.
Then we passed on to the meat department. The animals,
mostly sheep, are killed in Australia and New Zealand, and
after being frozen are shipped to England. We went into
these rooms, which were very cold, the thermometer marking
only 16° Fahrenheit. This low temperature is maintained
by evaporation, which is kept up by means of a solution
applied to the carcases of the frozen animals, which preserves
them, and in fact would keep them for ever. The system of
storing meat is excellent, as also the method of distributing
it to butchers. The distribution is accomplished by the use
of a sloping gangway, on the top of which the meat is placed,
and it slides down to the bottom, whilst carcases for storing
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 73
are sent up by lifts, the latter tilting automatically at the
top and throwing the frozen meat straight into the storage
room. Great care has to be taken by the butcher to unfreeze
it gradually, as if heated too suddenly the meat would
become bad.
A man-of-war in course of construction next claimed our
attention. Crossing the dock by means of a tug, we passed
through a bridge which opened for us, swinging round
parallel to the bank. It is worked by hydraulic pressure,
and opens for boats to pass to and fro, upon merely pressing
a button. The bridge must be very strong, a double line of
rails running across it, as well as a carriage road and path for
pedestrians. Further on we saw two coaling stations, where
steamers were being loaded with coal by means of a very
interesting machine. Mr. Holland next conducted us to the
dry dock, where ships are brought for repair. Upon their
arrival this dock is filled with water, but after the ship has
been floated in, the passage for the water is closed and what
is left pumped out, leaving the ship high and dry. When
the water in the docks gets too shallow, more is pumped in
from the river. A large number, of vessels were in the docks
on the day of our visit ; I had never in my life before seen
so many at one time belonging to different countries. At the
moment of our alighting from the tug a large ship was leaving,
bound for New Zealand, and a sailing vessel was entering,
just arrived from Norway. There is a railway at the docks
belonging to the owners, by whose courtesy we travelled on
it free. I felt truly grateful to Mr. Holland for showing us
so much of interest. On our way to and from the docks we
passed through some very poor parts of London ; among
these was Stepney, for which constituency Major Gordon sits
in the House of Commons.
When travelling by train a few days previously I noticed
a net affixed to it, and learnt that the mail bags were thrown
into this at the stations where the train did not halt. Upon
hiring a cab at a London station the number is taken by a
policeman, and an enquiry made of the driver as to its
destination ; this enables the police, in case of necessity, to
trace the occupant of the cab.
74 TRAVEL PICTURES
June 1 8th being the day appointed for placing wreaths on
the tomb of her late Majesty, Queen Victoria, we left the
hotel at 9.30 a.m. and proceeded to Paddington Station,
whence we started for Windsor. The country we traversed
was very beautiful, and when still within some miles of
Windsor we could see the flag flying on the Castle, a sign
that the King was in residence. Upon arriving at Windsor
we were received by the Station Master, who led us to a
carriage awaiting us, the wreath, which was very heavy,
following in another. We drove at once to the Royal
Mausoleum, but the carriage containing the wreath did not
appear, and we had consequently to wait outside the garden
for some time. Eventually the gate was opened and our car-
riages drove in. I placed the wreath with my own hands on
the tomb of the late Queen and Prince Consort, who lie side
by side. The sarcophagus is composed of the largest known
block of granite without flaw. On the death of her Consort
in 1861 Queen Victoria at once commenced to erect the Royal
Mausoleum at Frogmore, to which, when completed, the
remains of the late Prince were transferred. On the top of
the tomb lie effigies of both, carved in white marble. We
then took a drive down the Long Walk of Windsor Great
Park, which stretches southward from the Castle to an
equestrian statue of George III., where the road bifurcates,
one leading back to Windsor town and the other on into the
country. The view from the southern end of the Long Walk
is considered one of the finest in England. Both the trees
and turf in the park itself are exceedingly beautiful. Here,
too, we saw herds of graceful deer, so tame that they did not
fear our approach. There were also great numbers of rab-
bits. These animals are not to be found in India, but were,
some time ago, introduced into New Zealand, where they
multiplied to such an extent that instead of being a benefit
they became a nuisance, and the people are now anxious to
exterminate them. Returning to the station we left for
London.
We started out again after luncheon for Sunbury. Cricket
matches seemed to be going on everywhere, and we stopped
for a short time at several places on the way in order to
GARDEN SCENE, MAIDENHEAD
IN THE GARDEN OF THE THAMES HOTEL
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 75
watch the game. To reach Sunbury we passed through
Hammersmith, Kew and Hampton, returning by Kingston,
Barnes Common and Ranelagh. Just before reaching the
latter place we came upon a poor pony lying in the road. It
had become frightened at a steam engine, and, falling on its
head, had died from the effects. It had a ribbon rosette on
its head, having just taken a prize at the Pony Show at
Ranelagh.
After dinner we visited the New Theatre, where "The
Liars " was being played. The piece is a good one, and was
well acted, the caste including, amongst others, Mr. Charles
Wyndham, Miss Mary Moore and Miss Sarah Brooke.
Accompanied by Mr. Savage Landor, we went to call upon
Mrs. Brown-Potter, who has a charming house on the Thames
at Maidenhead. She is an ardent horticulturist, and her
beautiful garden was full of roses. Having spent some time
in India, she still takes a deep interest in my country and
its people, so that I was particularly pleased to make her
acquaintance. She showed me over her house, pointing out
in passing various articles presented to her by royal per-
sonages. We next adjourned to the stables, where I saw
some Shetland ponies, such dear little things and so small !
Ordering a pair to be harnessed, she took me for a drive
round the grounds. Upon our return, I was introduced to
her mother who lives with her, and learnt later that both
these charming ladies were Americans, and that Mrs. Brown-
Potter was a very fine actress.
When luncheon was over, Mr. Kyrle Bellew took us in a
small boat as far as the back-water, and then on board his
house-boat, which is fitted up with every possible comfort ;
here he kindly entertained us to tea. I felt fortunate in
making his acquaintance, for, as well as being a scientific man,
he is one of the best actors in England. Towards evening
we returned to Mrs. Brown-Potter's, where we partook of
more tea, after which we started on our homeward journey,
travelling by the Slough road back to our hotel.
On June 2oth, about 10 a.m., I left Victoria Station, taking
Abdul Ghafur Khan with me, en route for Hayward's Heath,
which we reached soon after 12 p.m. Here I found Colonel
76 TRAVEL PICTURES
Kemball awaiting me. We drove to his house at Lindfield,
a small village about fourteen miles from Brighton, where
I renewed my acquaintance with Mrs. Kemball and her
mother, for it was five years since I had last had the pleasure
of meeting these ladies. I was glad to see Colonel Kemball's
two boys, Arnold and Christopher, and to find them grown
so strong and healthy under the charge of their Swiss nurse,
with whom they spoke French. They all seemed delighted
to see me again, and before luncheon I had a game of croquet
with these dear old friends. After this meal we went for a
drive, in order that I might see something of the surrounding
country, and upon returning went again into the garden,
where we found both boys playing a game of cricket, in
which we joined. Mrs. Kemball showed me a small tortoise
she had brought with her from Venice.
We left Ivy House soon after tea, in order to catch the 5.30
train from Hayward's Heath, passing through two long
tunnels before reaching Victoria, where I found Major Benn
waiting for me on the platform.
On the morning of June 2ist I paid a visit to the Padding-
ton Workhouse. I was taken first to the Deputy's room,
and from there conducted by the Superintendent, Mr. Elliot,
to the quarters reserved for vagrants. In London begging
is forbidden by law, and this is why one does not see beggars
in the streets of the metropolis. Each district has at least
one workhouse, and any vagrant applying for admission has,
unless physically unable, to earn his keep by breaking stones
or picking fibre, both of which mean real hard work. We
were next taken to the wards occupied by aged men and
women ; only very light work is expected from these in-
mates. Thence we passed on to rooms where the children
were housed, many of whom the Superintendent told us had
been born there, as both married and unmarried women, if
destitute when about to become mothers, are admitted to
the Workhouse and allowed to remain there for a certain
period. As a rule no other patients are put in the children's
wards, as the latter are more or less noisy, but at one place
I noticed some adults, and a nurse told me that this was only
because they were pressed for room in other wards, but she
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 77
added they had been careful to select patients who were deaf !
There were special wards for the insane, pending their re-
moval to a lunatic asylum. We saw the dispensaries, where
four doctors are employed in prescribing for the patients,
medicine, like all else, being supplied free. Then we were
taken round the hospital wards, and finally into the laundry
and kitchen. Here I saw much which interested me greatly,
the system of washing and drying clothes, for instance, being
so different to that of India. In the kitchen everything was
beautifully clean, and the food supplied to the inmates
appeared to me excellent.
On our way back to the hotel I called upon His Highness
the Maharaja of Raj Pipla. I was delighted to come across
an Indian Prince, for it seldom happens that two Chiefs meet
so far away from their homes.
That same evening we went to the Criterion Theatre to see
a play called " The Duke of Killiecrankie." This theatre is
underground, and the only one of its kind in London. Mr.
Weedon Grossmith was very humorous, and both Miss
Helen Ross and Miss Eva Moore acted well.
On the morning of June 22nd we dressed early and set off
from Paddington Station for Reading. I have already
described the country through which this line runs. At
Reading Station Mr. Williams, one of the Directors of Messrs.
Huntley & Palmer's Biscuit Factory, was waiting to receive
us, and, taking us to his room, asked us to sign our names.
In the course of conversation he mentioned that the directors
did not allow any engineer to enter their premises, as they
did not want to run the risk of their machinery being copied.
I do not know whether they took us for expert mechanical
engineers, but it was all shown us so hurriedly that we could
not understand much about it. First of all the flour is
kneaded and made into dough, the kneading being done
with the same kind of machine as that I had seen at the
London Hospital. After this the dough is rolled out into
layers of the required thickness, and either cut into various
shapes or poured into different moulds and baked in great
ovens. The factory covers a large area of ground.
We hired a carriage and left for Maidenhead at 12.30 p.m.
78 TRAVEL PICTURES
Having been recommended to the Thames Hotel, which is
beautifully situated on the bank of the river, we decided to
go there. Luncheon over, we started in a steam launch for
Mr. Kyrle Bellew's house-boat, with the intention of paying
him a visit, but he was not there, and, after waiting for about
a quarter of an hour, were compelled to return in order to
catch the train back to town.
During the afternoon we called at a shop where copies of
nearly all the plays on the London stage are to be seen, and
French editions can be purchased.
We finished up the day with the Alhambra, which is one
of the best houses in London for variety entertainments,
and where, as in all places of the kind, smoking is permitted.
Dogs came on the stage in motor cars, and performed difficult
acrobatic feats, but what struck me most was the marksman-
ship of an American Colonel, who, amongst other astonishing
performances, played two or three tunes on a piano by hitting
the keyboard with bullets of his pistol, both notes and tune
being played in time.
The following day we visited the Wallace Collection. The
whole of these superb and unique treasures were bequeathed
by Lady Wallace to the British nation, on certain conditions,
one of these being that the Government should give a site in
a central part of London and build thereon a special museum.
It was thought that no place could be more fitting than their
old home, Hertford House, which was accordingly purchased
and reconstructed for this purpose. The collection was
originally formed by the Marquis of Hertford, passing from
him to Sir Richard Wallace, who considerably added to it,
and bequeathed it to his widow. There are about 700 pic-
tures and other art treasures innumerable, amongst which
is a quantity of choice porcelain and glass, and arms and
armour of every description. We noticed particularly some
Persian swords, chiwies and Mums. There are also precious
stones in many and varied settings. The place is well worth
a visit, and I could not help thinking how much a woman has
done for educational art in England, contrasting her conduct
with that usual in India, where there are very few rich people
who take the smallest interest in education.
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 79
Accompanied by Major Benn I went to buy a pianola. It
is a piece of mechanism which may be attached to an ordinary
piano, and operates on rolls of paper perforated with pat-
terns reproducing any desired tune. This may be set in
motion by means of pedals, when pegs, traversing the per-
forations, strike the keys of the piano, making them discourse
music. The veriest tyro can thus perform intricate pieces.
I went with Sir Curzon Wyllie to call upon Lord George
Hamilton, who was recently Secretary of State for India.
We had a most pleasant conversation, during which he asked
me about railways, the Mayo College, cotton and other
matters. Before leaving, he gave me his photograph, and
asked for mine.
In the evening we went to the Gaiety Theatre, where " The
Orchid " was being played. The music was good, and the
scenery and dresses very beautiful. In London poor chil-
dren stand outside butchers' and fishmongers' shops, where
the proprietors often give away what is left over at closing
time and will not keep. Sometimes they wait for hours,
and do not get anything in the end, which must be most
disappointing.
The English newspapers are also retailed by boys, who
procure a certain number from the various offices to dispose
of in the streets. Many of the papers are only a halfpenny
each, and of some there are as many as six or seven editions
a day. One may often see these boys waiting at the entrance
of a theatre, where they sometimes prove very useful, for
they will run to engage a cab, or if necessary call for one's
carriage, either of which they do very rapidly, returning to
open the door and, if it is raining, they put their hands
between the wheel and one's dress, in order that it may not
get soiled. They are content to do all this for a penny
or two.
I went to Mr. Langfier's studio to sit again for my portrait,
but had only ten minutes to spare, as I had to go on to the
studio of Miss Lallie Charles, who usually only photographs
ladies, but to whom I had promised a sitting in my oriental
dress when I had met her some days previously at the house
of Mrs. Brown-Potter. The day being fine she did not use
8o TRAVEL PICTURES
any artificial light. She showed me various beautiful photo-
graphs she had taken. Her house was a long way out, and
we had a good deal of difficulty in finding it ; it is known
by the name of the " Nook."
On the afternoon of June 24th I went to pay a visit to
His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales at Marlborough
House. He came to us in the audience-room, and welcomed
me most kindly. His royal Highness also shook hands with
Sir Curzon Wyllie and Major Benn. After greeting us he
asked me to follow him to the drawing-room, where he made
me sit on the sofa beside him, and began asking me about
India and my trip to England, and how I was enjoying
myself. The day chosen for my visit was fortunately the
birthday of His Majesty the King, so that I was able to con-
gratulate His Royal Highness on the occasion, and added
that I might have used very splendid titles in speaking of
the King whose birthday we were celebrating, but that I
thought " father " a more fitting word, as there was no other
name so dear to a man whose father was still living. I
went on to Buckingham Palace, and called on Sir Dighton
Probyn, who lives in the Palace. He had a charming manner,
and his long beard was very becoming to him. In the
armoury at Jhalrapatan I have a sword which he presented
to the late Maharaj Rana Pirthi Singh- Ji, about thirty-five
years ago, while he was still in India.
At the invitation of Mr. Savage Landor, I went to take
tea at his rooms in Whitehall Court, where I met some most
interesting people, amongst whom were Mrs. Brown-Potter
and Mrs. S. Lewis and others. The latter wore an enormous
pearl ; I had never seen so large a one before. She had a
black pearl, too, and a string of the same gems round her
neck, every bead of which was perfect. Her husband is a
great racing man. Mr. Savage Landor showed us drawings
he had done whilst in Tibet.
Hearing that Madame Sarah Bernhardt was playing that
evening in " La Sorciere," I decided to go to His Majesty's
Theatre. She had a very difficult role, but, as usual, acquitted
herself with distinction.
Doctor Gage-Brown called on June 25th and examined
LONDON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 81
me again, giving it as his opinion that I ought to go to
Marienbad. I was extremely sorry to hear that this ex-
cellent man died of pneumonia a few months ago.
After luncheon we started for a garden party given by
Sir Charles Elliott at his house, " Fern wood," on Wimbledon
Common. There were about 300 guests, many of whom
were greatly interested in India, and had held appointments
there, either military or civil. Several Indians present had
made their home in England, whilst others were studying
at different colleges ; there was also a Rajput gentleman
from Agra, reading for the Bar. I was in my Indian dress,
which was much admired.
On our way back I noticed, as we drove along, three
brass balls suspended above a shop. Upon enquiry I was
told they were to show that money was lent there on all
kinds of articles. These people are known as " Pawn-
brokers/' and in their phraseology, to " pop " means to
mortgage an article, whilst those who avail themselves of
this shop speak of it, or rather its owner, as " My Uncle."
The same evening we went to the Duke of York's Theatre
to see " Mice and Men." This play was a serious one, and the
principal parts taken by Mr. and Mrs. Forbes-Robertson,
both quite excellent. Most actresses have stage names
which are quite different from their private ones ; they never
change the former, as they would not be recognized by any
other.
It happens in almost every country that scientists are
not much honoured, and are often not even well treated ;
the honour which should be given to able men being bestowed
on those who have no other qualification for it except riches.
In London there are men who go about the streets selling
meat for cats. They have a peculiar way of crying " Cats'
meat ! " which the cats know, and come running out of the
houses. I saw some doing this one day, and did not under-
stand either the reason or the cry, until it was explained
to me.
We left London for Sheffield on June 27th, travelling by
the Midland Railway. Our train steamed out of St. Pancras
Station at 3.10 p.m., and we soon found ourselves passing
F
82 TRAVEL PICTURES
through rich and fertile country. The fields were full of
standing crops, and looked particularly beautiful to one
coming from a land where nothing but dust is to be seen in
the plains during the hot weather. Here and there were
shady woods, which looked very pleasant, and many wild
flowers were still to be found. It was the time when hay
is cut and made ; even for this, as for everything else, the
farmers use machines drawn by horses. The country through
which this line runs is well worth seeing. Near one station
I saw many furnaces for smelting iron, at another great
heaps of coal, as well as trucks laden with it, ready to start
for other places, English coal being considered the best in
the world. At two or three other stations I noticed some
water placed between the rails ; this was for the engine,
to which was attached an apparatus something like a spoon,
for taking up the water whilst the train was in motion, thus
effecting a saving of time. At Nottingham, on the River
Trent, we came across a building in the Indian style of
architecture, with several chhattris, looking very pretty and
clean among the unornamented and commonplace houses
which surrounded it. From Chesterfield Railway Station we
saw the spire of a church which was strangely twisted and
leaning on one side. It was a thing of curious build, and
we at first thought must be in need of repair, but later on we
found, from a guide book, that it was built so intentionally.
Our train steamed into Sheffield at 6.45 p.m., where many
people appeared highly amused at the Hindustani Dupattas
of Abdul G'hafur Khan and Onkar. A man from the Royal
Victoria Hotel met us, and under his charge we drove there.
It is about a mile from the station, and did not look as nice
from the outside as we found it within ; indeed, in some
ways it was better than many London hotels. The rooms
were good, and every modern comfort to be had there, whilst
the charges were exceedingly moderate.
Sheffield is a great industrial centre, where most of the
steel articles of the world are made. There is a great deal
of smoke, and the town is in consequence very dirty ; it is
difficult to keep a place clean where such enormous quantities
of coal are consumed daily for manufacturing purposes, the
SHEFFIELD, QUEEN S PARK
LIVERPOOL
SHEFFIELD, MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL 83
factory chimneys alone burning many thousands of tons a
week. From the windows of the dining-room we could see
the city very clearly ; this part of the town is built on a hill,
and the houses appear to stand one above the other. The
moon, though full, shone but dimly owing to the smoke.
The following morning, at 10.30, we left our hotel in order
to visit the well-known cutlery factory of Messrs. Rodgers
& Co. Mr. John Rodgers took us round the whole place,
explaining everything which was worth seeing. In the old
buildings most of the work was still done by hand, but new
ones were being added where electricity would take its place.
We were shown the processes of forging, grinding, polishing
and handling. Forging does not require any instrument
except a hammer and anvil. Grinding is done by means of
large and small stone wheels which revolve by steam, whilst
polishing is accomplished in several different ways. In this
factory knife-handles are made of ivory, bone, ivorine,
rubber, or horn, and are polished by a circular revolving
wheel composed of canvas and covered with many folds of
cloth. One table-knife^ was made before our eyes from start
to finish, and Mr. Rodgers very kindly presented it to me.
He also gave penknives mounted in gold and silver to Major
Benn, Thakur Umrao Singh, Dr. Ramlal and myself, which
we accepted after some hesitation. It was most thoughtful
of him to treat us so kindly, and I shall never forget the
reception I had at this place. He took us round his museum,
which contained specimens of the world-famous cutlery made
in his workshops. Here were also many fine specimens of
ivory, some of the tusks being of great size and well worth
seeing. He then conducted us to the show-rooms, where
among other things we saw a knife with nineteen hundred
blades, and he told us that in the year 1832 they first made
a knife with eighteen hundred and thirty-two blades ; the
one we had seen was for 1900, and he added that in 1905 they
would increase it by five blades more. In another depart-
ment we saw the processes of silver-plating and gilding, but
what interested me greatly was the preparation of long strips
of steel for cutting into blades, reminding me of what I had
seen at the Mint, when gold and silver bars were fashioned
84 TRAVEL PICTURES
in a like manner for coining. In passing through one work-
shop we observed great heaps of ivory dust, and wondered
why this apparent refuse was not thrown away, until Mr.
Rodgers explained that it was used for making jelly for
invalids. We entered another room filled with ivory from
different countries, that from Africa being the best of all. I
knew that rats were mischievous animals, but I never heard
before that they will eat ivory if the chance offers.
Upon leaving the factory we found a great crowd of people
assembled to see us. On our way back to the hotel we met
numbers of men, and women also, walking in the streets
without hats.
In the afternoon we went to see the works of Messrs.
Maxim, Vickers & Sons, who own the largest factory in the
world, as well as being represented in many foreign countries.
In England alone they have three or four different places,
and the premises we visited occupied a very large area.
We were met here by Major Leslie, Major Heath and Mr.
Needham. It was rather interesting to find that the head
of this firm was at Jhalrapatan for a few days when Colonel
Abbott was there, and that Mr. Needham had acted as Com-
missioner at Nagpur.
The Manager took us first to a place where steel is rolled
to serve as armour-plates for a man-of-war. A lump of
steel was cast in a mould, and after being subjected to intense
heat was withdrawn from the furnace for a short time to
cool slightly, then passed between enormous rollers many
times, reducing it to a compact slab 18 or 20 inches in
thickness. There are very powerful cranes to lift these
heavy things ; we saw, too, the instruments for cutting
enormous metal bars in two. Everything here was both
wonderful and interesting. We were next taken to where
guns were made, the firm being engaged at the time in making
one which will be the largest in the world ; its length is to
be 45 feet. Here we were shown the different processes
through which a gun must pass before reaching completion.
There was a gun-shield, too, under preparation ; it was a
mystery to me how such heavy things could float. Then the
Manager conducted us to a workshop where a gun 40 feet
5EAFORTH SANDS
SHEFFIELD, MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL 85
long was made to stand at right angles to the ground whilst
another coat of steel was put on it. The steel coating was
first uniformly heated in a furnace, and then lifted by a
crane and put over the standing gun. The fact is that,
with the help of cranes, these heavy things are treated like
so many toys. On our way back we walked on the bank of
the river Don, which is not bridged, but new material was
being conveyed from the other side of the river by means of
a crane which carried two tons weight at a time, and moved
at a rate of 300 feet a minute. The cutting machine worked
with a pressure of ten thousand tons, and cut the steel as
if it were a lump of butter. Here, too, projectiles are made.
We learnt that these works consumed some 4,000 tons of
coal a week. We were not only shown over the whole factory,
but had everything explained to us in fullest detail. My
sincere thanks were due to the Manager for all the trouble he
took on my behalf. Sheffield is certainly very dirty, and
the factory chimneys send such volumes of smoke into the
air that one cannot see clearly even on a fine day, but as
the best steel goods are made here I was glad to have had
the opportunity of visiting this busy hive, and delighted
with everything I saw ; it was interesting from start to finish.
We left Sheffield by the 4.20 train for Liverpool. Between
Northenden and Glazebrook we noticed a large canal in
which were some vessels at the time of our passing over
it ; this is known as the Manchester Ship Canal, excavated
a few years ago to connect Cottonopolis with the sea. From
here the country looked rather flat, and one could see for
a long distance on both sides of the line. At 6.45 our
train steamed into the Central Station at Liverpool. We
put up at the Adelphi Hotel, which is run by the Midland
Railway Company, and exceedingly comfortable. There are
both smoking and billiard rooms, and the latest telegrams
are always posted up for the benefit of visitors. After
dinner we listened to the band, which consisted of only
six performers.
On the morning of June 2Qth we travelled by the Over-
head Electric Railway to Seaforth, and then back again to
Dingle. This railway traverses the whole of the streets
86 TRAVEL PICTURES
skirting the Docks. The latter, which are over 10 miles
long, are the largest in the world, covering an area of 170
acres, and named after various royalties, statesmen, etc.
We should have had a nice view of them as we passed had
it not been for high warehouses which hindered the view.
We saw also some dry docks, in which were vessels being
painted and repaired. Upon alighting at Seaforth we ob-
served some ships sailing on the sea, as well as many boys
and girls bathing in it. We heard that there were quick-
sands not far from here. A tower on the opposite side
reminded us of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, though much
smaller. We had a good view of the " Baltic," one of the
largest vessels afloat, which was then lying at anchor, and
some ships were pointed out to us as being those on which
boys are trained for the Merchant Service.
At Dingle we visited the Walker Art Gallery, where there
is a good collection of paintings and sculpture, and left
about 2.50 for Waterloo and Great Crosby, to see the Sports
at Merchant Taylors' School, where Major Benn was edu-
cated. We passed through the slums of Liverpool to
Crosby, and, driving to the house of the headmaster, Mr.
Cradock Watson, found the school decorated with flags.
We at once proceeded to the grounds, where everything
was in perfect order, the credit of which was due to Mr.
Milton, whose acquaintance I afterwards made, as well as
that of several of the other masters. They were all taking
great interest in the whole affair, but Mr. Milton was parti-
cularly energetic, and to be seen everywhere. The one
mile race was won by a boy who finished his mile in 4 minutes
57 seconds — a very good pace. He was the captain of the
school, in the highest class, and good all round. I told
Major Benn that I should like to give a Challenge Cup to
the boy under fifteen who won most of the prizes. G. M.
Mathews fulfilled all these conditions, and was therefore the
winner. Mrs. Cradock Watson was very polite and attentive
to me ; and we conversed a great deal about India. She told
me she had three brothers out there, one of whom, Captain
Hepper, was the engineer in charge of the light railway at
the time of King Edward's Coronation Durbar at Delhi.
MERCHANT TAYLORS SCHOOL, LIVERPOOL
ATHLETIC SPORTS
SHEFFIELD, MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL 87
When the sports came to an end we went to the headmaster's
house. At the entrance to the school building a temporary
platform had been erected, upon which the headmaster,
his wife, Major Benn, Thakur Umrao Singh, Dr. Ramlal
and I, took our seats. The prizes were shortly after given
away by Mrs. Cradock Watson, and then a bouquet of pink
sweet peas was presented to her by the captain of the school.
A speech from the headmaster followed, in which he kindly
welcomed me, and told the boys that I was giving a cup
to the school, which would go to G. M. Mathews, who was
then presented to me. Upon this the boys cheered me very
much. Major Benn then rose and thanked the headmaster
and his wife. At the close of the ceremony I begged the
former to grant a half-holiday to the boys, which he kindly
did. Then bidding good-bye to our kind hosts we started
for the hotel, enjoying the drive greatly, as the sun had
sunk and it was cooler than in the earlier part of the day.
An excellent dinner was served at the hotel, the pillao
being cooked very nicely ; we afterwards went downstairs
to listen to the band. The following morning, June 3oth,
we left by the underground railway — which burrows under
the bed of the river Mersey — for Birkenhead, an outlying
part of Liverpool. From thence we drove to New Brighton,
on a road which was anything but good ; and in passing
I noticed some houses not unlike Indian ones. In the dis-
tance we saw the New Brighton Tower, and decided to pay
it a visit. The establishment is not so large as the Crystal
Palace, but has similar amusements going on. There was
a ball-room, where some six or seven girls were dancing, and
a concert-room containing a great number of chairs and
musical instruments. Ascending the tower we saw a fort
at the mouth of the river where it joins the sea. At 12.20
we left New Brighton in the " Pansy," one of the steam-ferries
which ply between this place and Liverpool, stopping at
Egremont to take up passengers, and reaching the landing-
stage about i p.m. Our train for Scotland started from
the Exchange Station, which is a port as well as a station.
For some distance the country was flat, and I noticed a
good many small canals. I do not think they can be of
88 TRAVEL PICTURES
much use for shipping purposes, and irrigation is not re-
quired here, so I am unable to account for them and do not
know why they were made ; possibly for drainage. After
a time the country became more hilly, but the land appeared
hardly worth cultivating, though all that was of any good
had been made use of. The soil is very stony and quite
unfit for the cultivation of crops, but is made to turn out a
good supply of grass, and fine trees had been planted here
and there. Indeed, except for rocks and ravines, every inch
of land had been utilized and made productive, great pains
having been taken in its preparation previous to sowing.
At Kirkby Station I again saw cottages which reminded
me of a small village in India, whilst from Appleby I ob-
tained a view of some high mountains and, the atmosphere
being clear for once in a way, could see them distinctly.
EDINBURGH, THE OLD TOWN
HOLYROOD PALACE
CHAPTER V
SCOTLAND
KERSHOPE FOOT marks the border-land between England
and Scotland, half of this railway station being situated in
either country. The land around Stobs being very hilly and
somewhat similar to that of the Transvaal, a large tract
was purchased by the Government soon after the Boer
War as being particularly suitable for purposes of military
training and manoeuvres. We passed through Hawick,
pronounced " Haik " by the Scotch, a manufacturing town
noted for its tweeds, which are so strong that it is difficult
to wear them out. The guard in charge of our train paid
us a visit, and upon learning that it was my first experience
of Scotland, proceeded to give me all the information he could
about his own country, of which he was very proud. He
named various soldiers and literary men, all of whom were
sons of Scotland, and gave an account of the brave Scotch
soldiers who were swept away and drowned in the Modder
River. I think the Scotch very pleasant in many ways, and
less reserved than the English. We next passed through
Galashiels, where there are more great factories for making
tweeds and tartans. Our train stopped for a few minutes
at Melrose ; near by are the ruined remains of Dryburgh
Abbey, which dates from the twelfth century. On the river
Tweed just near Melrose stands the picturesque home of Sir
Walter Scott, that wonderful man who wrote the best his-
torical novels in the English language. At last we reached
Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, and, owing to its fine
situation, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. I was
89
90 TRAVEL PICTURES
greatly struck on leaving the station by its grandeur and
cleanliness.
On the morning of July ist we visited Edinburgh Castle,
the ancient seat of the Scottish kings, grandly situated on a
bold rock, 400 feet above the sea level, and approached by a
steep hill. In front of the castle there is plenty of open
ground where, on State occasions, parades are held. An old
man who accompanied us showed and explained everything
of interest connected with the castle. First of all he drew
our attention to a moat surrounding it, which has always been
dry, on account of there being no reservoir of water in its
vicinity at a higher level than the bed of the moat. Then he
showed us a door to which the portcullis is attached, and
above this, on the second storey, a room which in the olden
days served as a prison. He also pointed out a plot of
ground used as a burying place for favourite dogs belonging
to the soldiers. Here, too, is St. Margaret's Chapel, the
oldest building in Edinburgh, dating as far back as noo,
but so diminutive in size that it is hardly more than a small
room. Lying in front of the chapel is a huge cannon, cast in
the fourteenth century, and by some thought to be of native
manufacture. Our guide next conducted us to the Ban-
queting Hall, now used as a store-house for old weapons and
armour. There is also the gun-carriage which bore the
remains of Her late Majesty to the tomb. On the highest
part of the enclosure stands the Crown Room, containing the
Scottish Regalia. We also visited the apartments of Mary
Queen of Scots, in one of which her son, afterwards James I.
of England, was born, and in accordance with the rites of
the Roman Catholic Church, at once baptized, being for this
purpose secretly let down in a basket suspended by a rope.
I cannot understand how any mother could consent to her
baby being lowered in this fashion from such a height. Two
miles further on we came to Holyrood Palace, the former
residence of Scottish kings. This is a square building with
a courtyard in the centre ; in the hall are various old paint-
ings, some of which are of legendary persons supposed to
have lived before the time of Christ, but I think they are
rather fabulous than historical. We passed through the
SCOTLAND 91
rooms of the ill-fated Queen Mary, and saw a tablet supposed
to mark the spot where the body of Rizzio fell. This Rizzio
was the Queen's confidential secretary, and attracted the
jealousy of her husband, Lord Darnley, who killed him in the
very presence of the Queen, leaving his dead body lying on
the floor. Near this spot are the ruins of the Abbey, some
400 years old, the precincts of which were formerly a place
of refuge for criminals. There is no roof, but the walls and
several pillars are still standing. On our way back to the
hotel we drove past Lord Nelson's Monument, the City
Observatory, and the Jail. From this road we saw Arthur's
Seat, a hill near Edinburgh, which, in fine weather, commands
a magnificent view of the city and neighbouring Firth of Forth.
Later in the day we went to the National Gallery ; it is
not large, but contains a representative collection of British
and foreign paintings. We also paid a visit to the house of
John Knox, a celebrated Scotch preacher and reformer of
the sixteenth century.
The Nelson Monument, our next point of interest, is a
high tower, which we ascended by means of stairs — a very
tiring process. The admission fee was 3d. each. We saw
here two letters written by Nelson, one with his right hand
and the other with his left, after the loss of an arm at Tene-
riffe in 1797. I think the writing in the latter the better of
the two. He began to write well six months after losing the
arm, the letter referred to being dated 29th January, 1798.
The weather, unfortunately, was very cloudy, otherwise we
should have had a good view of the city and castle from the
top of the tower, adjoining which is an unfinished National
Monument erected in commemoration of the Battle of Water-
loo. In the afternoon we went for a walk, and bought a few
tins of sweetmeats peculiar to Scotland. We also visited a
roof garden made gay and pleasant with flowers and plants,
where we took tea, and at the same time obtained a good
view of the castle and surrounding neighbourhood.
On the whole this city is very clean and most picturesquely
situated, the castle of course enhancing its beauty. It has
handsome hotels and other public buildings. As we drove
through the poorer parts of Edinburgh I noticed that the
92 TRAVEL PICTURES
window of nearly every house was provided with a pole used
for drying clothes. It was a quaint sight to see these poles
projecting with clothes hanging on them. I noticed here,
as I had done at Liverpool, that many of the children ran
barefooted about the streets. One sees advertisements on
every available spot, even private rooms are not free from
them. Hotel proprietors must make plenty of money by
allowing advertisements to be posted on their premises ;
with the people of Great Britain the practice of advertising
has verily become a disease.
On the morning of July 2nd we left Edinburgh at 8.45 for
Aberdeen. After travelling some miles we crossed one of the
longest bridges in the world, over the Firth of Forth. The
railway line runs, for the most part, parallel with the coast.
Our first stopping place was Kirkcaldy, a large ship-building
town, extending along the shore. From thence we pro-
ceeded to Dundee, a busy manufacturing centre, and the
third city in Scotland in point of size. At Carnoustie there
are good golf links, and we saw people playing ; the Scotch
seem quite mad on golf and fishing. From Stonehaven a
stream runs along the side of the railway, flowing in a wind-
ing course and passing through very picturesque country.
The hills are covered with beautiful trees, and there are
plenty of ferns to be found on the banks of the river.
We did not reach Aberdeen until after 2 o'clock, our train
being half an hour late. This is one of the oldest towns in
Scotland. Its characteristic industry is the production of
granite monuments and columns. Thousands of tons of
granite are annually quarried and exported. Although it
was raining we managed to visit the quarries belonging to
the Rubislaw Granite Company. On our way back we drove
through Duthie Park, which is very beautiful, and then along
by the river Dee. The houses have a neat appearance, being
all built of stone. The following morning at 10 o'clock we
set out for Balmoral in a motor car. It was fine when we
started, and we were enjoying our drive greatly, until the
rain began to come down in torrents, compelling us to seek
refuge in some stables, where we waited until it cleared some-
what. We then decided not to stop at Banchory, as at first
ABERDEEN, ROB ROY S STATUE
ABOYNE, NEAR BALMORAL
SCOTLAND 93
intended, but to press on to Charlestown, which we reached
very wet and cold, and thankful for the tea we obtained
there. It was only raining slightly when we took our seats
and set off again in the car, but the cold, damp day made us
feel tired and hungry, so we stopped at Ballater for lunch,
after which we moved on again, reaching Balmoral at three
o'clock. This finely situated castle was the highland home
of the late Queen Victoria, and a residence to which she was
greatly attached. The scenery of the whole valley of the
Dee is very beautiful, and the purple heather covering the
otherwise bare hills adds greatly to its charm. Fine weather
favoured our return journey to Aberdeen, which we enjoyed
in consequence.
We left Aberdeen on the morning of July 4th for Inver-
ness, but before leaving we went to see the fish market,
which is a wonderful sight in every way, both as regards the
amount brought to the market and the variety of fish ; the
average daily quantity brought in being about 275 tons. A
few days previously some 400 tons of fish had been caught,
but on that day only 200 tons. We went from one end of
the market to the other ; the whole floor was entirely strewn
with fish of different sorts. There were some half-dozen
round red fishes with fins sticking out ; these are known as
" King Fishes," and indeed they are as beautiful as their
names, but not good for food. Before leaving, an official
came up and asked us to write our names in the visitors'
book, which we did. He very kindly showed us the ova and
other interesting things connected with fish which are kept
there. Aberdeen has a large fishing industry, and is a main
source of supply throughout the United Kingdom. The
trawlers start in the evening, and have often to go great
distances in order to secure their load. They return in the
early morning, laden with different kinds caught with nets,
the contents being put into the hold, where the poor fish
often live for as many as ten hours. It is difficult to realize
the dangers these men have to face when there is a storm
at sea.
At 8.5 a.m. we left this northernmost of cities for Inverness.
The scenery here is very fine indeed, and after we had passed
94 TRAVEL PICTURES
Inveramsay was simply beautiful. Near Duff town our train
passed by a lovely lake, with very tall ferns growing at its
edge. Swans were swimming on its surface, and other white
water-fowl flying in the air. These various birds produced
a very picturesque effect. On the opposite side was a moun-
tain thickly covered with graceful Scotch firs.
We arrived next at Alva, from whence we could see the
dignified outlines of mountain ranges, and noticed, too, great
numbers of the black cattle for which the Highlands are
famous. We passed Nairn, a fairly large place on the sea-
coast, reaching Inverness at 12.15 p.m. Soon after luncheon
we drove to the famous battlefield of Culloden, where in
1746 the English, under the Duke of Cumberland, defeated
the Highlanders, headed by Charles Edward Stuart, then
known as the " Young Pretender." We stood upon a huge
boulder from which the Duke of Cumberland issued orders
to his army. Then we drove to the battlefield itself, where
a good many stones have been set up bearing the names of
members of different clans who were buried in this place.
There is also a big cairn made of blocks of stones on which
the following inscription is engraved : —
OF CULLODEN WAS FOUGHT ON THIS MOOR
l6TH APRIL, 1746."
The graves of the gallant Highlanders who fought for Scot-
land and Prince Charlie bear the names of their clans. After
seeing this interesting battlefield we returned to the hotel for
tea, proceeding on our excursion again about 5.30. We
visited the old castle, now reconstructed and serving as a
prison. A statue of Flora Macdonald next attracted our
attention. A romantic story is told of how the prince was
aided in his flight by a young lady of this name, who led him
past the watching sentries of the enemy, disguised as her
serving maid in woman's clothes; for Charles Edward
escaped almost alone from the field of battle. For many
months he was a hunted fugitive, a very high price being
offered for his capture, but the Highlanders to whom he was
compelled to trust himself were loyal and true to a man.
CULLODP:N MOOR, THE CUMBERLAND STONE
TOMB OF HIGHLANDERS
SCOTLAND 95
During our drive we saw the cottages of some very poor
people ; they were not unlike Indian houses, the difference
consisting chiefly in the shape of the roofs, and in their pos-
session of a chimney and windows. The people of Great
Britain are very fond of flowers ; one hardly sees a house
without them, and the rich are not ashamed of working in
their gardens, whereas in India, as soon as a man begins to
draw twenty or thirty shillings a month, he considers himself
a " gentleman," which means that it is beneath his dignity
to work in a field or garden, to plant or cultivate land. We
saw some men erecting a temporary cottage with a bundle
of sticks ; they were very poor, and could not afford to pay
the rent of a house to live in. Inverness has a population of
only 20,000 ; some modern improvements are lacking to the
town, as it possesses neither trams nor electricity. The hotel
in which we stayed burnt only gas, and had a quaint old-
fashioned wall-paper, but the manager was most obliging, and
did everything in his power to make us comfortable. In one
of the sitting rooms we found an old volume of the Graphic,
which contained a portrait of Mr. Walter Savage Landor,
grandfather of the present famous author. This place re-
minded me of Cintra, the only difference being that it is not
so clean ; otherwise there are the same hills, trees and shady
walks. The houses, though small, are neatly built, and some
of the creeping roses are really beautiful ; there was one
house with its whole front entirely covered with magnificent
roses. We passed Inverness Church, and after driving
through many streets came to the site where Cromwell built
a castle, of which there are no remains of any sort left. We
crossed the river by one suspension bridge, returning by
another. At this place the river Ness flows into the sea.
On July 5th, at 10.30 a.m., we started from the Inverness
suspension bridge, in the " Glengarry," a Caledonian Canal
steamer. A little further down we noticed a hill laid out as
a cemetery, which looked very picturesque, but I wondered
who had ever thought of placing it in such a spot. The
river Ness is seen from here, flowing at rather a low level,
but as we proceeded it gained the same height as the canal,
whilst still further on we observed that canal and river
g6 TRAVEL PICTURES
separated. We also passed a timber yard where planks are
made, the trunks of trees being conveyed to this place in
small carts. I noticed a number of gulls following our boat ;
at first I did not know why they did so, but learnt that they
expected something to eat. A gentleman on board had
brought some pieces of bread with which to feed them ; I
did so, too, and it was a pretty sight, for when a piece of
bread was thrown among a group of these gulls they seldom
allowed it to reach the surface of the water, but caught and
swallowed it on the wing, if not too big. Should a piece
thrown fall in the water it was at once snatched up, the gulls
fighting fiercely for it. These birds are called lake or moun-
tain gulls ; they are graceful white birds with yellow beaks
and a rim of black on their wings ; some of them have black
heads also. We were charmed, too, with the wonderful dis-
play of yellow gorse in full bloom. Near Dochfour there is
a terraced garden which, so far, is one of the best I have
seen.
At 11.26 we entered the first " loch " or lake ; this is 900
feet deep, and at times can be very rough. The pebbles,
rounded by the constant motion of the waves, make an ex-
cellent bank. We came across a rowing boat containing
two men and a lady who had been out fishing ; they and their
boat were picked up and taken aboard ours. One of the
party knew Hindustani, and asked some questions of Abdul
G'hafur Khan in his own tongue. Temple -Pier was touched
soon after 12 o'clock ; this is situated in a gulf, and the
steamer had to make a circuit in order to reach it. Half an
hour later brought us to the next pier, Inverarigaig, where the
scenery is very fine, for though many of the hills are bare of
trees there is plenty of Scotch heather. At Foyers the
steamer stopped for about three-quarters of an hour to enable
tourists to pay a hurried visit to the falls of that name,
probably the finest in Great Britain. The snow on the hills
can be clearly seen from Invermoriston, where we arrived
shortly after one o'clock. Both sides of the loch are the
property of Lord Lovat. The woods, which are very dense,
are preserved for shooting, and there are plenty of deer on
the hills. A good view of Ben Nevis— the highest mountain
LOCK ON THE CALEDONIAN CANAL
CASTLE, LOCH LEVEN
SCOTLAND 97
in the British Islands — is obtained from this point. Its
name in Gaelic means " Hill of the House."
Invergarry and Fort Augustus were reached at 1.35. A
carriage met us at the landing station and conveyed us to
the Lovat Arms Hotel. It had been built quite recently,
and it was here that Lord Lovat lately entertained his
friends to luncheon in honour of the opening of the new golf
links. A monastery was pointed out to us, the monks of
which live on alms. The Scotch are far stricter about re-
ligion than the English. Locks are made when the level of
the canal is much higher than the sea to which it runs, and
have an excellent arrangement for lowering boats to a lower
level. The locks are at three different levels, with gates at
either end. We left Fort Augustus at 3.30, by a train running
on a single line. I had previously seen but few such, in
fact this was only the second I had come across, the first
being that from Aberdeen to Balmoral. Our train con-
sisted of three carnages and an engine. The railway line
took a winding course through well-wooded hills, whilst in
the distance were seen mountains with snow upon them,
which was melting just then. There is no eternal snow on
those here, such as one sees on the Himalayas, for the highest
mountain of Great Britain is only a little over 4000 feet above
sea-level. At Spean Bridge, which we reached about 4.40,
we had to change carriages, and soon found ourselves
travelling on another line. The scenery was exceedingly
picturesque throughout, and beyond Crianlarich our train
crossed many ravines, the bridges of which were very high.
We finally reached Ardlui, situated at the upper end of Loch
Lomond. I regret that, being neither a painter nor a ready
writer, I am unable to describe with any justice the beauty
of this largest, and by many considered the most beautiful,
of the Scottish lakes. At Arrochar and Tarbet it takes a
different course and is lost to sight, but here Gareloch com-
mences, which is nearly as beautiful as Loch Lomond. On
this is situated Craigendoran, an important starting-point
for steamers, boats and sailing vessels in the outer docks,
as well as some just putting out to sea. Our train stopped
at Dumbarton, a large industrial town on the river Clyde.
G
98 TRAVEL PICTURES
The ruins of a castle stand on a rocky hill ; the latter pre-
sents a curious appearance when seen from the Clyde, re-
sembling a large block of stone, or a huge football tossed
amidst the houses.
From here we proceeded to Glasgow, and at 10.30 the
following morning started out to visit Mr. Arthur Kay's
emporium. He kindly escorted us over the premises and
showed us all it contained ; almost any article seemed able
to be procured there. Upon returning to the warehouse
where rugs and blankets were stored, he presented me with
a rug of " Macgregor " tartan, and gave one of " Fraser "
tartan to Major Benn. He also introduced me to a Mr. Cram,
who is head of a calico-printing firm, and they both drove
with us to this factory. Mr. Cram showed us how the
various pieces of cloth were washed and cleaned. The
bleaching system is most interesting and amusing, too, for
the cloth seems to move about by itself as if it were animated.
He also explained how the designs were made and trans-
ferred to copper by an instrument similar to a pantograph.
Then he took us to the place where the actual printing was
done. A piece of cloth was rolled up at one side of the
machine, its end put through another, and it came out
printed in eight different colours. It was really a wonderful
sight. We were then taken to the laboratory where the
different colours were made, and to other halls where the
drying and folding of the cloth was done by machinery. The
whole system from beginning to end was marvellous. We
next passed on to a glass manufactory, which was no less
wonderful. In the centre of the building stands a huge
furnace, in which the raw material is melted ; into this liquid
glass workmen dipped iron tubes, taking up lumps of red-hot
glass, which they blew to make the articles desired. To
produce a certain shape the pattern is placed on the heated
material ; should it get cold it must be re-heated. I saw
many different things made there — electric lamp shades,
wine-glasses, jugs, etc. I did not think discipline quite
perfect here, as one of the workmen was a little imper-
tinent to someone who was with us. We were then taken
to the engraving department. The instrument used for
SCOTLAND 99
this purpose was also like a pantograph, and engraved
one particular design on forty different articles at once.
After being engraved as described, these articles were placed
in acid. The method of cutting the glass was both curious
and interesting. We drove to Queen's Park, a fine recreation
ground, where the Museum also stands. The houses on the
city side look particularly well, and the University of Glasgow
is a very handsome building. We then drove to Victoria
Park, which was a long way off ; as we had not much time
to spare we went straight to a glass house containing some
fossil trees. At 10.30 p.m. we left Glasgow for Ardrossan,
arriving at 11.45. Here we went on board the steamer
" Vulture," which started for Belfast after picking up the
Caledonian mails.
CHAPTER VI
IRELAND
VERY early in the morning of July 7th we reached the pier
at Belfast, and drove straight to the Grand Central Hotel.
The boat in which we crossed St. George's Channel, though
small, was steady. At n a.m. we started for the ship-
building yard of Messrs. Harland & Wolff, said to be the
largest in the world, and we were more particularly interested
as Mr, Dickinson, a great friend of Major Benn's, was con-
nected with this firm. Some huge steamers had been recently
built there ; among these was the " Baltic," which we had
seen at Liverpool. The manager, Mr. Carlyle, showed us
where the office work, drawing of plans, and modelling of
ships was done, and then took us over the entire works,
explaining everything as he went along. Two ships were
under construction, their respective tonnage being 24,000
and 17,000. Mr. Dickinson, who is a clever and able man,
told me that by the " tonnage " of a ship is meant its inter-
nal capacity in cubic feet ; this divided by 100 showing its
" gross " tonnage. He then went on to explain that the
" displacement " of a ship signifies the cubical feet displaced
by it at any draught, divided by 35, as 35 cubic feet of salt
water make one ton. We then went to the place where
engines and other iron articles were made, the principal part
of the work there consisting of heating, smelting, moulding
and casting. The most wonderful thing I saw in the engine-
room was the cutting or boring of holes in iron and steel
plates by a constant stream of compressed air. The cranes
are so powerful that they will lift any weight with the greatest
ease. This firm have a wonderful ticket system, admirably
IOO
BELFAST, SHIPBUILDING YARD
DUBLIN DEER IN THE PHCENIX PARK
IRELAND 101
adapted for checking the men's work and preventing them
from wasting the time of their employers. They have
another rule, too, also worth noting. Every workman is
expected to be at his post by 6 a.m. ; three whistles are
blown, one after the other, each lasting for five minutes. At
6 a.m. punctually the outer doors of the dockyard are closed,
and any man who is late by one minute is reported to the
authorities. What a miserable life these poor workmen
lead ! The manager told us, however, that though their
work was hard they were well paid. When inspecting some
of the ships we had, at one point, to walk on planks placed
so high from the ground that Dr. Ramlal became quite
nervous, and Mr. Dickinson had to go to his assistance.
We returned to the hotel for luncheon, and at 3 p.m. left
for a linen manufactory. The manager received us with
great politeness, and conducted us to warehouses where raw
flax from different countries was stored, and the man in
charge showed us samples of it, explaining that Irish and
Belgian were the best. We next passed through rooms where
various processes of cleaning the thread were in progress.
One machine we saw here was a most ingenious invention,
cleaning and working the flax as if it had a human brain.
Then we mounted to the upper storeys, where spinning and
weaving were going on, and saw plain linen being woven, as
well as fancy cloths with a pattern on them. The embroidery,
too, was excellent, whilst some of the handkerchiefs were so
fine that they were priced as high as £12 the dozen. A
pattern of the best material was shown us, being a duplicate
of that sent by the firm to the St. Louis Exhibition in
America. Steam was employed throughout the whole works.
In the afternoon we saw some handsome buildings, among
which the new City Hall, then under construction, promised
to be one of the finest in Belfast ; but we could not help being
struck by the absence of statues in this place. We did not
reach the Deaf and Dumb School until too late in the even-
ing to see its system of teaching. In driving down the
Malone Road we noticed many beautiful houses springing
up on either side of it. Mr. Dickinson dined with us, and we
spent a very pleasant evening in his company.
102 TRAVEL PICTURES
On July 8th, at 7.30 a.m., we left Belfast. The country
between that city and Dublin is very beautiful, the line
running along the sea-shore, but at some places high ground
comes between the traveller and the sea, so that he loses
sight of its blue waters. Near Lurgan Railway Station there
is a cemetery, which might be called a typical one, as there are
groves of cypress trees. Very suitable this for a grave-yard,
as the cypress denotes silence, and in a grave-yard silence
predominates. Country houses in Ireland resemble the
bungalows in India occupied by Europeans ; in fact, I think
the English in India must have copied Irish houses.
In trains all over Great Britain and Ireland a cord runs
parallel with one side of the railway carriage, to be used, in
case of need, for stopping the train ; but if a passenger does
so without sufficient cause, the penalty is £5. I did not
notice this cord in the train which conveyed us from Fort
Augustus to Spean Bridge. Something quite new to us also
in the Irish trains were four oblong wire carriers in the ceiling
of each carriage, on which hats and other light articles could
be placed.
From what I have seen of other countries, I should say that
Ireland is the poorest of them all, England being the richest,
and Scotland coming next.
Ireland is famed for its peat, which is formed of turf and
decaying vegetable matter, and the poor who cannot afford
to buy coal have to use it for fuel.
Dublin was reached at 10.30 a.m., and we put up at the
Imperial Hotel, later on taking a drive through the city,
which is situated on both sides of the Liffey, but this river
was not at its best that day, owing to the low tide and preva-
lence of mud. We made a tour of the chief streets, and drove
thence to Phoenix Park, one of the largest known, only being
outrivalled by the Yellowstone Park in America. Phoenix
Park, though very extensive, is much neglected, but the river
flowing by adds greatly to its charm. We much enjoyed
watching the cricket matches going on here, and the play
was far better than that we saw afterwards in Lord Dudley's
ground. The spot was pointed out to me where Lord
Frederick Cavendish, Chief Secretary for Ireland, was
•IEW IN THE PHCENIX PARK-
COUNTRY ROAD NEAR BUXTON
IRELAND 103
assassinated in 1882. This is marked with a cross on the
gravel walk, which is daily renewed. After tea we took a
second drive, this time through the slums of Dublin, where
we saw very poor houses.
The following morning I had to get up a little earlier, and
so went to sleep overnight with that idea on my mind. I
awoke suddenly, and, finding it quite light, thought it must
be very late and that I should miss the train. My door was
locked from the outside, and having no clock in my bedroom
and my watch being in charge of the servants, I was unable
to ascertain the real time. I felt very angry with them, as
they had been instructed to wake me at 5 o'clock. I sent a
messenger from the hotel to summon them, and, upon their
arrival, they told me that it was only 3 a.m. !
Leaving Dublin behind, we proceeded to Cork by train
from Kingsbridge Station, the line running through most
lovely country ; Ireland is indeed worthily named the
" Emerald Isle." On the way I noticed a large stretch of
land covered with peat two to three feet deep, the remains
of old vegetation buried for ages beneath the ground, now
serving instead of coal, with which Ireland is poorly supplied.
Our train stopped at Limerick Junction, where the surround-
ing scenery is equally beautiful. Further on we came to
Mallow, and had to wait there for some time ; this place is
very picturesquely situated, the hills being covered with
trees, and the green of the fine turf abounding everywhere
being most restful to the eye, whilst a river flowing by en-
hances its beauty. It was hay-making time in Ireland, and
we saw many people cutting grass with machines drawn by
horses, the scent from the hay being very pleasant. I think
the Irish are not keen on cultivation, as I saw more hay-
making than standing corn, so I came to the conclusion that
either the people have more cattle than elsewhere to eat the
hay or else they export it to other countries.
We reached Cork at about 10.40, and as there was no com-
fortable conveyance to be obtained at the station, I stayed
in the waiting room whilst Major Benn kindly telephoned to
a livery stable for a carriage to be sent for us. We were kept
for about half an hour before the vehicle appeared, and during
104 TRAVEL PICTURES
that time a priest came in who was, I think, a Roman
Catholic. He sat down on a bench, and after glancing round
the room took from his pocket a prayer book, then, crossing
himself on brow and chest, began to read and pray. When
the carriage at last appeared, our first intention was to drive
about the place, but on second thoughts we decided to go
straight to the house of Mrs. Croft, whose acquaintance I had
made in India. It is situated on a hill, from whence we
obtained a splendid view of the harbour, city and race
course. Mrs. Croft was delighted to see us, and introduced
us to her mother, who was very agreeable, after which our
hostess kindly accompanied us on a drive, and pointed out
the principal sights of Cork. We returned about I o'clock,
as she was entertaining us to luncheon. When this lady was
at Jhalrapatan she was exceedingly good to me, so that it
was a real pleasure to me to see her again ; she is the wife of
one of my best friends amongst Europeans. After spending
a very pleasant afternoon we left Cork for Dublin at 3.30
p.m. In Ireland the cattle are mostly red in colour, some are
white, but black are very rare, whereas in Scotland the re-
verse is the case.
We reached Dublin at 7.30, and drove straight to the
Imperial Hotel, which had been opened only two months
previously ; everything in it was consequently new, and the
attendance very good. The manager was most attentive
and obliging to us throughout our stay, and appeared
anxious to make his hotel popular.
The Dublin Tramcar Company deliver parcels for twopence
each ; at no other place have I ever seen such a thing done.
After dinner we left for the pier, where the " Cambria " was
waiting to take us to Holyhead, in Wales. There were three
or four hundred people on the road to see us off. The crowd
was most orderly and polite, and when my carriage drove by
they gave us a hearty farewell with plenty of " Hurrahs "
and cheering.
CHAPTER VII
IN ENGLAND AGAIN
AT 1.25 p.m. we reached Holyhead, after a very smooth
passage. The steamer was steady, and the officers and men
were all most polite. I was interested to learn that the
captain had been in Bombay some twenty years ago. Our
train left Holyhead for Manchester at 2.20 p.m., the line
running along the sea-coast. I do not think this country
poorer than other parts of the United Kingdom in natural
scenery, which at some places is simply charming. Llandudno
is especially picturesque, bounded as it is on one side
by the sea and on the other by a beautiful tree-covered
mountain.
We reached the Midland Hotel, Manchester, about 5.30,
and I at once went to take much-needed rest. At 12.30 p.m.
the following day we left the hotel for Buxton by motor-car ;
this being a small one would not accommodate more than
four persons including the chauffeur, but we managed to put
two small planks of wood between the seats, and Dr. Ramlal
was perched there. On our way thither we passed a hill
1700 feet above the sea-level, said to be the highest peak in
England proper ; and saw, too, a cliff, called the " Lovers'
Leap," near which there is a big cave. We lunched at
Buxton, and then drove on to Chats worth, the magnificent
seat of the Duke of Devonshire. The scenery between these
places is indeed picturesque, and should on no account be
missed by tourists. Chats worth is really a splendid palace.
A river flows in front of the house, which is comparatively
modern, having been built in 1687-1706 on the site of an
105
io6 TRAVEL PICTURES
earlier mansion, and the beautiful gardens are protected by
high walls, whilst in the background are thickly-wooded hills.
On one side of the house is an extensive park, in which grace-
ful deer roam at will ; these are so tame that they show no
fear of passers-by. His Majesty the King has sometimes
honoured the Duke by staying here. The walls of the state
drawing-room are covered with very fine Gobelins tapestry
copied from Raphael's cartoons.
From Chatsworth we went to Haddon Hall, which is very
ancient, and an ideal specimen of the old English baronial
mansion. On our way back the motor broke down six miles
from Buxton, and we had to wait there for an hour or so.
Some people in another car were very obliging, and helped
the chauffeur to repair ours. As long as there is no break-
down a motor-car is the best of conveyances for going about,
but when anything goes wrong it is difficult to know how to
proceed. A car is too heavy for the occupants to drag, and
it is very annoying to be left alone in a jungle with no one to
help or sympathize with you. However, we managed to
reach the Midland Hotel by 10.30 p.m. and sat down to dinner
after a very hasty bath, for owing to the state of the roads
we were thickly coated with dust. The passenger who sits
alongside the chauffeur fares the best, most of the dust falling
on the occupants of the back seats. We were quite tired out
after this excursion. In returning to Manchester I noticed
that the horse tramcars carried a green light in front and a
red one at the back. Another point which struck me was
that in Derbyshire and Cumberland the fields are surrounded
by stone walls, but in most other counties of England by
hedges.
On the morning of July nth we could not do any sight-
seeing in Manchester, as Major Benn had not been able to
make the necessary arrangements, but he suggested that we
should examine instead the working of the hotel, which was
just as wonderful as any other sight. The manager's son
kindly took us over the premises of the Midland Hotel, the
largest in the world, with the exception of one in New York.
He escorted us first to the kitchen, which was very spacious
and exceedingly neat, and where a great number of persons
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 107
were employed. He also showed us a room in which rolls
were baked in a great oven holding 300 or 400 rolls at a
time. The temperature was 450° Fahrenheit, and twenty
minutes would bake the whole batch. We next proceeded
to the laundry where the hotel linen and other clothes were
washed. Here I saw a most ingenious machine, into one end
of which washed garments were put, coming out at the other
dried and ironed. All these departments are usually under-
ground, and artificial ventilation has, therefore, to be pro-
vided for people who live there. This is effected by means
of a screen of iron pipes, covered with coke, kept wet by a
constant flow of water. The water entering through the
screen becomes cool, a big fan being kept working to produce
a draught. In cold weather the pipes are heated by gas,
which warms the air of the rooms. This hotel is provided
with both French and German restaurants. Germans eat
a great deal of uncooked food ; this does not always com-
mend itself to the taste of other nations, and consequently
they have to be catered for separately. There is also an
American bar, which supplies the special drinks in which
the people of that country indulge. The drinks, known as
" Cocktails/' are full of strange flavours, but very intoxi-
cating. The manager next took us to his Opera Hall, which
is as long as a theatre. The paintings on the boxes repre-
sented scenes from the "Midsummer Night's Dream/' and were
very well executed. We then mounted to the roof garden,
gay with flowering plants and shrubs ; here a number of
umbrellas were erected for people to sit under, useful both
for sun or rain. Passing on, we came to the telephone office,
where a few girls were busily working. At other places in
the building the telephone was manipulated in the usual
way, but here the mechanism was so complete that im-
mediately upon his taking up the receiver, the enquirer's
number lit up in the office, whereupon the operator con-
nected it with the wire, and was at once ready to converse.
Another ingenious arrangement was a series of brass tubes
worked by air-pressure ; any small article, such as a key,
placed in one of these, reached the office in no time.
After luncheon we went to some Spinning Mills, where the
108 TRAVEL PICTURES
managers kindly showed us everything worth seeing. There
were wonderful machines which looked as if they actually
understood what they were doing ; three or four threads
went in at the same time, and if one of them broke the
machine stopped working until everything was in order
again — a wonderful sight ! In another room some 400 reels
were reeling thread on a large roller for weaving. These
machines worked on the same principle as those already
mentioned, and the sight of all the threads coming from
different places and meeting at one centre was truly mar-
vellous, presenting the appearance of a waterfall.
At 3.30 p.m. we went on to Messrs. Mackintosh & Co.'s
rubber factory, said to be the largest and finest in the world.
We learned that the first Mackintosh who started this busi-
ness was the grandfather of the present proprietor, and that
the overcoat universally known by that name was introduced
by the founder of this rubber factory. We were shown raw
rubber from various countries, our guide explaining that
Ceylon rubber was the best of all. Then we saw how rubber
was washed, and at the same time squeezed between two
heavy rollers. I had an idea that it had to be reduced to a
liquid form before being made into different articles, but
I soon found this was a mistake on my part, and that rollers
do everything. The rubber is passed and repassed through
them again and again, receiving by this means any desired
colour. These rollers are of wonderful use in many in-
dustries ; biscuits are made by them as well as steel plates
and other things. When a block of rubber is ready, it is
sent to a refrigerating house, where it is left to harden.
When sufficiently firm, it is cut by machinery into sheets of
the desired thickness. The superintendent told us that the
waste in raw rubber is very great, at times amounting to
75 per cent. As many chemical ingredients are required for
its preparation, the odour is very strong, which betrays the
existence of a rubber factory in the neighbourhood. The
making of tennis balls came next. Girls cut out the different
pieces for the balls, and very quickly and skilfully many of
them did so. One always finds a thick, round piece of rubber
attached to the inside of the ball and may not know why it
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 109
has been put there, but at this place the mystery was re-
vealed to me. Through this thick rubber piece air is intro-
duced into the ball to make it of a proper size, and give it
the necessary elasticity. In this part of the factory were
made numbers of cheap balls painted in different colours
and with fancy pictures on them, the latter taken from the
transfer papers so largely made in Germany. Our guide also
showed us how waterproofs were manufactured, by placing
a coating of the liquid rubber between two pieces of cloth.
At 5.50 p.m. we left Manchester for Birmingham, reaching
there at 8 p.m., and putting up at the Queen's Hotel, which
is practically on the station platform. After tea we visited
the Birmingham Small- Arms Factory, and saw the boring of
gun-barrels, etc., after which we were conducted by a member
of the firm to the place where the stocks for rifles are made.
The most delicate and interesting operation he showed us
was the setting of the sights. The method is very accurate,
and the man in charge of the sights department explained to
us that, if a wind was blowing sideways, by placing the sight
at right angles to the barrel one could nullify the force of
the wind, otherwise it would blow the bullet to one side.
There were two or three instruments here which could do
everything connected with a particular article without any
outside help ; one would cut a hole in it, another an opening,
whilst a third would cut it off, and so on. Among the many
interesting things we saw were the electric plant, the testing
of rifles at targets, as well as the making of bicycle acces-
sories. We were also taken to see a forge which the late
Shah of Persia was unwilling to enter. Between three and
four thousand workmen are employed at this factory.
After luncheon we took a drive through the city, and saw
the Town Hall, an imposing structure in the Corinthian
style, where the Triennial Musical Festival is celebrated ;
the Corporation Art Gallery and other important buildings.
Then we went on to the Park, which is quite near the town,
concluding with a visit to a pen factory. A pen has to
undergo nineteen different processes before it is completed,
all of which were shown to us, as well as the making of pen
holders and handles. The different colours seen on steel nibs
no TRAVEL PICTURES
is due to the application of heat for a longer or shorter
period. There was a unique machine for varnishing pen
holders, the handle being merely passed through a small hole
and coming out varnished. We noticed that women were
engaged in this last and most interesting process of the
industry.
At 5 p.m. our train left Birmingham for London ; it did
not stop anywhere, but went straight through, passing Rugby
on the way, a place well known for its great public school.
The scenery was very pretty ; small turf-covered hills,
beautiful trees on the hill-tops, and here and there the spire
of a church, giving character to the landscape. Berkhamp-
stead, too, is prettily situated, as also Boxmoor and Bushey.
We reached the Euston Railway Station at 7 p.m., and spent
the morning of July I3th in unpacking our clothes.
I had luncheon with Major Gordon and Lady Tweeddale,
who are indeed friendly people, and take a great interest in
my affairs. They enquired about my visit to Scotland and
Ireland, also whether I was happy and comfortable in every
way. During the afternoon I went to a garden party given
by Lord and Lady Jersey. Their house is situated at Isle-
worth, and is known as Osterley Park. It is a fine place, and
the tapestries are very good indeed, especially the pink ones ;
I have never before seen any as old and yet so fresh. There
is a good collection, too, of Indian articles. My host and
hostess were most kind and courteous to me in every way.
The garden is beautifully kept, and full of lovely flowers.
Lord Jersey took me round his vegetable and kitchen gardens,
where I saw peaches and nectarines trained on walls ; he
also showed me glass houses in which vines are trained ; these
were full of splendid hanging bunches of grapes. After seeing
the hot-house flowers we walked about in the garden. They
are really most charming people.
After dinner we went to the Earl's Court Exhibition,
where we visited various side-shows ; the amusements at
this place were very similar to those of the Crystal Palace.
There was a flying machine which, when in motion, swung
boats outside, something like a merry-go-round, and when
lighted up, looked still more attractive. Then we watched
IN ENGLAND AGAIN in
the water-chute, where the boats came dashing down into
the water below at a very high speed. Here we were joined
by Mr. Savage Landor, with whom we walked round the
Exhibition, finally ascending the big wheel, the circumference
of which is 300 feet. When our car was at its highest point
we could see the switchback railway, and, in the further dis-
tance, London, or rather its lights. The grounds were beau-
tifully illuminated, and looked especially charming from the
top of the wheel ; in fact I considered the illuminations here
better than at the Crystal Palace, the Chinese coloured lan-
terns being most effective, but the fireworks were decidedly
inferior. The place was full of advertisements ; I fancy the
owners must make a great deal of money from people who
advertise, as well as from those who open shops here.
On the afternoon of July I4th Lady Tweeddale and Major
Gordon took me in their motor to the People's Palace in the
East End of London. There was a flower show being held,
the exhibitors being poor people who had little or no ground
to cultivate, and so grew their exhibits on tiny plots of land
or in window gardens. Some of the flowers were quite fine
and of good quality, especially roses, carnations and various
sweet peas, all of which were largely represented. Geraniums
and begonias were well to the front, and fuchsias not scarce.
The flowers were arranged both tastefully and artistically.
Her Majesty the Queen arrived in a carriage driven by four
horses, and was received by the chairman and members of
the committee. I was also standing with them, and it was
quite a wonder to me how readily the Queen recognized me,
for she had only seen me once at the Court, when I was for-
tunate enough to be presented to her by the King. The
streets were decorated with flags and bunting and lined with
people, who also cheered me as I passed ; I was wearing my
oriental dress. One receives much attention, too, from the
police when in one's Indian costume ; they always allow my
carriage to pass, though they may stop others. At the
People's Palace I was introduced to the Duke of Fife and
many other distinguished personages ; Mr. Sydney Holland
was also there. We* followed behind the Queen, and Her
Majesty asked me whether I liked the flowers. She, herself,
H2 TRAVEL PICTURES
noticed everything with great interest, and the girls and
others present cheered Her Majesty heartily ; they also again
cheered me when they caught sight of my Indian dress. On
the Queen's departure some flowers were presented to her.
She is really wonderful, and takes an immense interest in the
working poor. This magnificent hall was built for the use
and benefit of the poor people of the East End. It is very
large, and has a balcony running all round it. Major Evans
Gordon told me that it was more used for educational pur-
poses than anything else, and added that the hall might be
opened more frequently for the amusement of the people
than it is at present.
After the flower show we attended an " outing," which
was given to the people of Major Gordon's constituency at
Chingford, a pretty place five miles out of London, and it was
very pleasant to be out of doors and see more of the country.
Here tea and refreshments were provided, and later on sports
were held, in which men and women, girls and boys competed,
the winners receiving prizes, which were distributed by Lady
Tweeddale. The people cheered her Ladyship, Major Gordon
and myself very heartily. Major Gordon is exceedingly
popular with his constituents, and I enjoyed the trip im-
mensely. I was among the very poor of London, but they
were so polite to me in every way. Some of them were
introduced to me, and among them women who had been out
in India a long time ago ; now they were very old, but wanted
to come and see me, and I was glad to talk to them. I met
a woman who was married to one Fateh Mohammad, an
Indian from Karachi, who runs an Indian restaurant in
London. I returned to the hotel at 9 p.m., my Indian dress
everywhere attracting great attention and interest.
On July I5th, at 3 p.m., we went to a garden party given
by the Duchess of Northumberland at Sion House. There
are two figures of lions here, one at the entrance and the other
on the top of the house. The story runs that when the latter
lion's tail moves a death takes place in the family. To pre-
vent the chance of such an unpleasant occurrence this tail
might well be removed. The grounds are very beautiful
indeed, but not well looked after. I was told that the Duke
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 113
owned so many houses, which was probably the reason why
these were not nicely kept. Lord and Lady Jersey were very
kind in taking us round and showing us everything. These
garden parties seem chiefly given to offer a chance of showing
off the dresses of the ladies. It is impossible for a hostess
to attend to every one of her guests who are invited on such
occasions. Society is so vast in London that one may go to
half a dozen such parties and yet always meet new people.
I quite agree with Marie Corelli, that the old genuine hos-
pitality of England is dying out. There is no doubt this
excuse for the host and hostess, that they cannot possibly
pay attention to three thousand or more people at a garden
party; but if I had my choice I should ask fewer guests, so as
to be able to speak to every one of them. Later on in the
evening we met the Chinese Minister and his wife, who are
charming people. The lady cannot speak English, and there-
fore we had no chance of conversing with her.
On the morning of July i6th, at 10 o'clock, I called at Sir
Curzon Wyllie's house, but he was not well enough to ac-
company us, so we went by ourselves to Clarence House to
pay a visit to H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught. We were
shown into the drawing-room, where he joined us ; we shook
hands, and, after I had introduced Major Benn, we all sat
down. The Duke was so good and amiable that I shall never
forget the way in which he received me ; I felt that I did not
deserve anything of the sort. It is on account of their
graciousness that the Royal Family are so popular with the
people. He asked me about my stay in London, and what I
intended to do after it, and also talked with Major Benn
about Baluchistan and Afghanistan. His Royal Highness
was in Baluchistan for some time many years ago.
After lunch we went to the Royal Albert Hall, where the
play " His Excellency the Governor " was being performed
by amateurs. Mrs. Skrine, of Simla fame, acted very nicely,
taking the principal part. A monologue preceded the play,
which was well and cleverly rendered by Miss Nellie Gan-
thony. She imitated an American, a steward, and various
ladies on board ship, which was very amusing. Later on in
the day I went for a drive to Battersea Park, which is on the
H4 TRAVEL PICTURES
further side of the Thames, going by the Chelsea and return-
ing by way of Albert Bridge. Battersea Park is not very
large but extremely pretty, and well looked after. There is
a lake on it, much resembling the Serpentine in Hyde Park ;
the flowers also were very fine, and pleased me immensely.
We drove back to the hotel through Hyde Park, and on my
return was engaged in packing things for St. Andrews.
I left Euston Station for Scotland about 11.30 p.m. It
was lucky that we had sleeping accommodation, and we
appreciated it all the more as we did not expect to get it.
Major Benn took four first-class tickets, but upon learning
at the station that the payment of an extra fifteen shillings
secured a sleeping car, we did not hesitate, and the two other
tickets were given back to an inspector to recover the money
from the booking office. In this way Major Benn saved
expense. Every railway servant expects a tip, and a few
shillings expended in this way make for the comfort of the
traveller, rendering employees both obliging and civil.
On the morning of July i8th, at 9 o'clock, we reached
Leuchars Junction, where we had to change for St. Andrews.
The train was waiting, so we stepped in, and a few moments
later were moving on again, a quarter of an hour more
bringing us to St. Andrews Station. As there was little time
to spare here and I was in a great hurry, I jumped out on to
the platform as soon as the train stopped, and the first man
I saw as I did so was Colonel Abbott, who was at the station
to meet me. I did not expect to see him there, so was a
little nervous and not quite myself, but I soon got over
these feelings and we began to ask each other the usual
questions. We drove at once to the Grand Hotel to change
our dress. As Onkar was not with me I had to get a barber.
The tub had been lately painted, and the white paint came
off ; however, I managed to sponge myself, and dressing
hastily went to Colonel Abbott's house. Here I met his wife
and two daughters, who asked me many things about Jhal-
rapatan. Then the Colonel invited me to take some re-
freshments, and led me to the dining-room, where fish and
other things were served which were very good. Both
Colonel and Mrs. Abbott were most kind, and I remembered
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 115
what the former had done for me when I was quite a young
boy ; how he had sent me to the Mayo College and watched
my career all along with the greatest interest ; my gratitude
to him cannot be sufficiently expressed in words. Major
Benn joined me while I was taking breakfast at the hotel,
and shortly after we started for the St. Leonard's School for
girls, where Miss Abbott is a mistress. The Principal, Miss
Grant, kindly took me round the garden and playground.
I saw many things, amongst others a cricket ground. In
former times ladies were not so keen on outdoor games, but
now they have taken to them in earnest, going in also for
gymnastic exercises, which make them healthy and strong.
The cricket ground is well situated, overlooking the sea, and
there are a few small hills near by which enhance its beauty.
Miss Grant then conducted me to the class-rooms, and also
showed me a hall where different gymnastic exercises are
taught. As it was getting late, we started for the hotel,
which is pleasantly situated quite close to the sea ; we ob-
served boys and others gaily walking about on the beach
enjoying themselves. A few yards off stands the Golf Club ;
for the links of St. Andrews have long been famous, and
attract a large number of golf lovers. I hope this bracing
climate will greatly benefit Colonel Abbott's health. I
waited a few minutes at the hotel for Major Benn and my
attendants, and as soon as they arrived we at once left for
the station, which we reached five minutes before the train
started. We got to Leuchars Junction at midday, and soon
afterwards started for Edinburgh, where we had a stop of
half an hour, leaving this beautiful capital of Scotland at
2.30 p.m. and reaching Euston, after a very comfortable
journey, at 10.45 p.m., where the inspector informed Major
Benn that he had recovered the money on the tickets.
Between Kirkcaldy and Burntisland there is a very pretty
little island in the sea.
Early in the morning of July igth we left the Alexandra
Hotel, as our train was timed to start for Torquay at 7.30 a.m.
The country through which we travelled was most pic-
turesque. Bristol is a large city with an interesting history,
Bath an old-fashioned town and Weston-super-Mare a
n6 TRAVEL PICTURES
popular seaside place. On our way to Torquay we passed
Tiverton Junction and Dawlish, both of which are charmingly
pretty ; at the latter place the train runs along the seashore,
and there are two curious detached rocks, known respectively
as the " Parson " and the " Clerk." At the Torquay Station
a naval captain was deputed to meet us with two carriages,
in which we drove to the pier ; here a steam launch awaited
us, and a quarter of an hour later found us on board H.M.S.
" Caesar," where Lord Charles Beresford and his staff received
us with every honour. A bodyguard was provided and a
band played. We then went to Lord Charles Beresford's
cabin, and when luncheon was ready had it with him. I was
introduced to Colonel Thomson, an American, and a great
friend of Lord Charles Beresford's. After luncheon our host
took us all over the battleship, explaining everything to me
in such a clear way that I could not fail to understand it.
I saw the instruments by which wireless messages are re-
ceived and sent, and learnt how a torpedo is set in motion.
Torpedoes can be fired at a depth of 20 feet, but 17 feet
is the usual depth ; their rate of travel is 30 miles an hour.
We were shown also the torpedo-nets, the dispensary,
kitchen, and the steel plates which protect the ship. The
6-inch guns were next pointed out and explained to us. As
guns were not working on the turret, Lord Charles Beresford
very kindly asked the captain of the " Hannibal " to show
those working on his. Here, too, we were received with
great honour, and shown the different manipulations of the
guns. On our way there we were fortunate enough to see
the " Victoria," with four or five other ships, come into the
harbour, and a salute of eleven guns was fired from the
" Csesar." Before going on board the " Hannibal," Lord
Charles Beresford gave us tea and also honey. He was
most kind and attentive throughout our visit, and I shall
not easily forget the pleasant time I spent with him. On
our way back the waves ran high, and Thakur Umrao Singh
was sea-sick.
We went to the Grand Hotel, and after giving orders for
dinner started out for a drive. Until now I had not seen
any place so beautiful as Torquay, excepting Cintra, but
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 117
there, there is no sea. Torquay is situated on a range of
hills, and therefore at some places the road is very steep.
At about 7.30 we took dinner, and from the window we could
see the different ships, all illuminated ; they had lights at
their mainmasts, and threw flash-lights in the same manner
as a light-house does. We left Torquay Station at 8.55 p.m.,
and Newton Abbott at 9.15. From this station, having a
saloon to ourselves, we had a most comfortable journey all
the way to London.
On July 20th, about n a.m., we left our hotel for the
Guildhall in a hansom, as the carriage had not come. Sir
Curzon Wyllie had to go in another carriage. The street in
front of the Guildhall was lined with police, and the road
covered with sand to prevent the horses from slipping. Upon
reaching the entrance we were received and escorted to our
seats by people dressed in blue, who formed the committee.
A dais covered with red cloth was erected at one end of the
hall, upon which were seated the aldermen in their robes.
I sat in No. 19, in front of them. Shortly afterwards
Lady Curzon came in, dressed in black, and was heartily
cheered. Then the Lord Mayor arrived, preceded by his
official mace and sword, and took his seat on the dais,
followed by Lord Curzon in morning dress. Below the dais
sat a few clerks, whilst on the table lay some mallets, used
for informing the audience that someone was about to speak,
the aldermen tapping with them when the attention of the
company was required. I noticed the sweet scent of some
rosemary leaves. The day's proceedings were opened by a
clerk, after which the Lord Mayor stood up and delivered
a speech, in which he praised the work done by Lord Curzon
in India. Amid great applause Lord Curzon rose to reply,
justifying every action of the Indian Government in a strong
and forcible speech, which lasted for about an hour. Among
other points, he mentioned the Famine, the Delhi Durbar,
and the Tibet Expedition, and said something in praise of
the Native Princes of India. The whole speech was de-
livered in a dashing manner, which carried the audience with
him. In my opinion this oratorical effort ranks second only
to the splendid speech delivered by Lord Curzon at the Delhi
n8 TRAVEL PICTURES
Coronation Durbar. After this function, which was very
grand in its way, the freedom of the City of London was
presented to Lord Curzon in a golden casket. In olden times
no one was allowed to carry on any sort of business in the
city except such as had the freedom of the city, and even now
if a man who possesses it becomes poor, and cannot afford
to pay the expense of the education of his children, the
City will be responsible for this. In India no one would be
particularly pleased to hear that, when he becomes poor,
his children would be educated at other people's cost !
We then drove to the Mansion House, where a luncheon
was given to Lord Curzon, who sat on the right hand of the
Lord Mayor. The hall was beautifully decorated, the tables
gay with flowers and orchids, and all the arrangements
excellent. Many chairs were unoccupied, as the members
of the House of Commons could not come, being engaged in
some heated debates ; they had been sitting for twenty-five
hours continuously. The Lord Mayor rose to propose the
health of His Majesty the King-Emperor, the Queen and the
Royal Family, and after these toasts had been suitably re-
sponded to, he gave the health of Lord Curzon, to which the
latter replied very briefly but pithily. Lord Salisbury next
made a humorous speech, which was heartily appreciated.
We then proceeded to the drawing-room, where we were
joined by the ladies, who had not lunched with us. The
Lady Mayoress asked me to write my name in Hindustani in
her book of autographs. I enjoyed the whole thing im-
mensely ; it was very good of the Lord Mayor to invite me
to the ceremony, such functions being held so rarely that
I was fortunate to have the opportunity of attending one.
We started for Woolwich at i p.m. on July 2ist, reaching
the Arsenal about 2.30. Here, every description of gun,
rifle and shell is made for the public service. We had first
to write our names in a book at the entrance ; then I met the
Superintendent, who, after a short conversation, escorted me
to see the different machinery, some of which was very
wonderful. These machines were so made that they worked
by themselves, as if endowed with human intelligence. There
was one in particular, fitted with a sort of beak which picked
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 119
out cartridges so regularly and neatly that one could hardly
believe it was not being done by some living creature with
plenty of sense. The welding-on of the tyres was also most
interesting. A hoop of iron, after being heated, was placed
round the wheel, which was automatically lowered and dipped
into water. We next saw the boring of guns ; passing on
from this to the carpentry department, where saddle trees
were being made ; and from thence to a place where a cart
was being painted, which was accomplished by lowering it
bodily into a huge tank filled with paint. As we went along
our attention was attracted by an enormous hammer, 40
tons in weight. Captain Browne showed us the new guns
which had lately been made for India, as well as the stocks
for others, to be fired by electricity ; he asked me to fire one
of these. After completing our tour of inspection, we re-
turned to the Superintendent's room to tea. He was a most
agreeable man, and conversed with us for some time on
different topics. We drove back to the hotel through Green-
wich and Woolwich, the streets of which are very narrow and
dirty.
After dinner we went to the opera, for which the Hon. Mrs.
Dudley Leigh had given me a box. She and her husband
were there when we arrived, but had to leave at 10 o'clock in
order to attend a meeting to raise money for some hospital
in which the King takes deep interest. Mrs. Elliot, a relation
of Major Benn's, came to our box and asked us to go behind
the scenes. Her daughter, a fine actress, whose stage name
is " Madame Helian," was playing the part of Sybil in
" Faust." It was the first time I had been behind such a
great stage as that of the Covent Garden Opera House. The
scenery is worked by means of hydraulic lifts and electricity,
and the whole place is full of wonders.
In the early morning, and again in the afternoon, the
London milk supply comes round in tall cans, furnished with
a tap ; these are placed in low horse-carts, and the milk is
poured from the large cans into smaller ones, which are
delivered at public and private establishments. A neces-
sary individual to a great number of the community is the
costermonger, who usually goes about with a donkey-cart
120 TRAVEL PICTURES
selling his goods. Equally important to a still larger class
is the man who cleans chimneys, known as a " chimney-
sweep." The nature of his work makes him very dirty and
black, as he gets covered with soot. At every turning one
finds girls selling flowers, most of whom are very poor. In
all the large towns of Europe are press-cutting agencies,
which supply extracts from the newspapers on every con-
ceivable subject, the charge for these being either a certain
sum annually, or so much per hundred cuttings.
Mrs. Rew kindly sent me a copy of the rules, together with
a list of the members belonging to the " New County Club";
I was very glad to see these.
At 8.15 we went to a revival of " The Second Mrs. Tan-
queray " at the Vaudeville Theatre, in which Mrs. Patrick
Campbell, Charles Bryant and other actors sustained their
roles with much credit. The news of the seizure of the
" Malacca," a German ship, is the principal topic of interest
just now. I cannot understand why the Russians are doing
things likely to irritate another nation when they are already
in great trouble with Japan. At 1.30 I went to lunch with
Mr. and Mrs. Dudley Leigh at their house in Hertford Street ;
they are such pleasant people. When I was at the Earl of
Jersey's place, Mrs. Dudley Leigh kindly took me round and
showed me everything ; then again, at the garden party of
the Duke of Devonshire, she was most friendly, and the
other night she sent me a ticket for a box at the opera. I
really do not know how to repay all her kindness. There
were some other people present, and the conversation turned
on different subjects, such as hypnotism, mesmerism and so
on. I shall not easily forget the pleasant afternoon I spent
in their company.
At 10.30 a.m. on the morning of July 25th we went to
the headquarters of the London Fire Brigade in Southwark
Bridge Road, to see their parade, under Captain Hamilton,
who showed us everything in detail. He took us into the
courtyard, and after a few seconds we saw smoke issuing
from a window, whereupon a man rushed to a fire-alarm
which was standing in a corner and, breaking the glass,
pulled the alarm rope. In a few seconds a large horsed
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 121
vehicle, carrying a ladder, came galloping up. In less time
than it takes to tell, the ladder was erected against the build-
ing, and a man scaling it ; but it was only 50 feet high, and
would not reach to the upper windows, so the man who was
mounting took another, with a long hook, and, having fixed
this securely to the window sill, started going up it. He then
began to send some dummies representing human beings
down by a rope, a hook being attached to their shoulders,
by means of which they slipped down a rope which other
men were holding on the ground. After this he descended
himself, carrying dummies on his own shoulders. Firemen,
by this means, learn how to deal with rescued people. The
first fire engine to arrive upon the scene not being large
enough, they were requested at headquarters to send another,
which was on the spot in a few seconds. Then a fireman,
having donned a helmet, which was closed in on all sides,
and into which air had been pumped through a pipe, entered
a room full of smoke. The men below had meanwhile
brought a thick mattress, above which some of them held
a strong piece of canvas, and then from a window 20 or
30 feet high the fireman jumped down on to this cloth. A
still longer ladder was brought, which could reach a height
of 70 feet. It was then supposed that a building between
two streets was alight. The firemen went up on a roof on
the opposite side of the street and began to throw water
across with much force by means of a strong water- jet to
the other side where men were working with a ladder. These
ladders can be made any length desired, as the firemen carry
with them small ones, five feet in length, which fit into one
another. These same ladders are also used as stretchers for
carrying injured persons when unconscious. Then Captain
Hamilton took us to quarters where the engines, ladders and
carriages were kept ready. Upon arriving he ordered one
of his men to ring the fire-alarm ; immediately the doors
opened by electricity, the horses were harnessed and the fire-
escape started in sixteen seconds, whilst the engine, which,
as a rule, starts after the ladder, went off in twenty-one
seconds. We saw them running at high speed ; they soon
returned, and everything was put back again in readiness for
122 TRAVEL PICTURES
future use. We next visited the stables. The Fire Brigade
horses are beauties, and are well kept and cared for. The
collar, which is always round the neck of a horse, is sus-
pended from a hook above ; in this way the horse does not
feel its weight, yet to all intents and purposes he is always
ready to start. There is also a small workshop where the
engines and other apparatus are repaired. The Captain now
took us into a sort of museum where old helmets were kept
whose wearers had been killed or injured in fighting a fire.
Here we saw, too, the street water-pipes formerly used in
London. These consisted of tree trunks with a hole bored
through them, one end being smaller than the other, in
order that they might fit into one another. When there was
a fire the men had to bore a hole in the pipes, whilst to stop
the flow a wooden plug was inserted. The water nowadays
is usually drawn from the street hydrants, but when the
pressure is not sufficient, engines are brought into action,
every one of them carrying enough water to pump for four
minutes ; some of these are so powerful that they can throw
water to any height. Then we visited a workshop where the
hose is made, which is lined with rubber in order to prevent
the possibility of leaking. The mouth-pieces attached to
the hose, made either of brass or aluminium, are fastened
with copper wire, rubber being placed between it and the
mouth-piece. The latter is so constructed that a spray of
water can be produced, when required, to clear away the
smoke, and when this has been effected the firemen can see
to direct the water to any particular spot.
The Fire Brigade appeared to have plenty of means of
amusement. There was a gymnasium hall which had a small
stage, and in another room were two billiard-tables and a
piano. These men have one day off in two weeks, and two
weeks' holiday in a year. Every Wednesday and Saturday
a parade is held, but there was a special one ordered by
Captain Hamilton for me, which I thought very good of him.
I contributed a small sum of £10 to the Brigade's Benevolent
Fund.
Later on in the day we visited the Palace Theatre, and
found the whole show was very good, the troops of lions
IN ENGLAND AGAIN 123
being particularly wonderful. In a cage were four lions and
a dog together. In obedience to the lady trainer's com-
mands these lions performed different feats. Two or three
times she put her hand, head and neck into the wide, open
mouth of a lion, which showed its affection by licking her.
I cannot understand how these ferocious animals can be
tamed in this way. The " Laziest Juggler in the World "
was both funny and clever.
During the afternoon of July 26th we went to tea at Miss
Griffith's house in Richmond, where I met her aunt, who was
ninety-one years of age, and yet could walk about quite
easily. She said that she remembered the time when there
were no railways, and the mail was sent by four-in-hand
coaches. Tea was served in the garden, which, though a
small one, was very nicely kept. I enjoyed myself greatly.
Hotel servants are invariably very good, but they much
appreciate a " tip." At the Alexandra Hotel we had a
waiter named Henry, who was particularly attentive and
civil.
I went to the " Williams " Typewriter Depot, where I
ordered a machine. A great many improvements have been
made in these machines, and, to my thinking, they are
among the best typewriters. Then I went on to Messrs.
Stanford's, and bought a few maps and books on the coun-
tries of Europe, starting after tea in a motor-car to leave
"p.p. cards." In Europe it is customary to do so, even
though you may not see the people of the house. Sometimes
this is a great nuisance, especially if one has but little time
at his disposal.
After a hasty dinner we left the hotel for Liverpool Street
Station, Mr. Savage Landor and Mr. Kolasker, from Bombay,
coming to see us off. During our stay in London both these
gentlemen had been most attentive to us ; the latter was
a passenger on the ship in which I came from India.
CHAPTER VIII
THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE— HOLLAND
WE started for the Continent at 7.30 p.m., reaching Harwich
without a stop by 10, but owing to darkness we could see
nothing of the country. As soon as our train arrived at
Harwich we hastened on board the S.S. " Vienna," which left
the port twenty minutes later. The harbour looked very
beautiful with electric and other lamps, and that night, for
the first time, I saw a light-ship, which is a stationary vessel
used as a light-house. Those in charge of it have to be
always on board however bad the weather or rough the sea,
in order to light the lamps and keep them in good order.
Though the crew receive every consideration from their
superior officers, still it is a sort of life which one would not
care to lead. The light-houses on this coast of England show
red lights.
The cabins were so hot that I preferred to sleep on deck ;
Major Benn was also there. The moon had risen, and it was
a grand sight to watch her silvery rays shining on the calm
waves, but though the sea was smooth and the boat steady,
yet some people on board were sea-sick, Abdul Ghafur being
amongst them. We reached the Hook of Holland at dawn.
The India Office had asked the Dutch authorities to give me
all Customs facilities. The Inspector was very polite, and
when he knew which were our trunks he marked them to be
passed. The train was ready at the station, and at 5.42 a.m.
it left for Amsterdam. The country is very flat, and one can
see from a long distance innumerable wind-mills, spires of
churches and straight canals, which are the principal features
124
AMSTERDAM, THE MARKET
A RIVERSIDE SCENE
THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE— HOLLAND 125
of Holland. The houses are built after the English fashion,
but flat tiles are much used. There are no wild trees, every
one being marked, as the Forest Department takes great
interest in arboriculture. The colour of the cattle is black
and white mixed, something like those of Scotland ; cattle
all of one colour being very scarce. A few miles from the
Hook of Holland I noticed a piece of ground covered with
fishing nets ; these were placed out in the open to dry. I
saw also some dredgers at work clearing mud from the canals
and depositing it on the banks, as the Dutch cannot afford,
like other countries, to waste it, the level of Holland being
below that of the surrounding sea. Hence, too, high dykes
have to be built to prevent the sea from deluging the coun-
try. The principal place we passed in the train from the
Hook of Holland to Amsterdam was Schiedam, famous for
its gin, which was once much consumed throughout the East.
Here I saw a canal in which the level of the water was higher
than that of the surrounding country.
We reached Amsterdam at 8 a.m., and drove to the Amstel
Hotel, which is situated on the river of that name. At n
o'clock, as it was drizzling with rain, we went to the Ryks
Museum, a fine building, where we saw some famous pictures
by well-known artists of the Dutch School. The " Night
Watch," by Rembrandt ; " De Avondschool " (the Evening
School), by G. Dou ; " Selling an Egg," by Bloemaert ; and
" Animal Life," by Van Ruysdael, are all very good, whilst
" The Dream," by N. Maes, is a master-piece. Paul Potter —
a great animal painter — and N. Elias were among other im-
portant artists of this country. We also saw a wooden
chair, something like a sentry-box, formerly used by William
I., King of Holland.
We returned to the hotel for luncheon, starting out again
soon afterwards to visit the Dykes ; among them was one of
the largest in Holland, the Merwede Canal. On our way
thither our attention was drawn to the locks, which regulate
the water of the canals with great accuracy, by means of a
curious piece of mechanism consisting of many fans. The
waters of the Merwede Canal are supplied by the Zuider Zee,
in which great numbers of herring and anchovies are caught
126 TRAVEL PICTURES
and exported. Here, too, is a bridge which opens in the
centre, swinging back at right angles for vessels to pass
through. We visited the Aquarium, which was exceedingly
interesting, many different species of fish being kept here ;
among them were several I had not seen before. A small
museum attached to the Aquarium contained skeletons of
fishes, snakes and other reptiles, but the most interesting
objects, to my mind, were the flower-like sea anemones. On
our way back we went to a panorama of Jerusalem. Painted
on the circular walls is the history of the sufferings of Jesus
Christ from the time when He was forced to bear the cross,
until His crucifixion and burial. The circumference of the
walls is 120 yards, and the height 60 feet ; the distance of
the wall from the platform being 40 feet. This is really a very
wonderful piece of painting, and I was greatly impressed by
it. Passing on to another room we came upon some articles
for sale, such as old Persian carpets and Dutch china, but it
was difficult to know whether they were genuine pieces. Then
we drove through the Jews' quarters. These people, who
form one-tenth of the population of Amsterdam, reside in a
particular part of the town, the condition of which presents
a marked contrast to the Dutch cleanliness of the rest of the
city. I noticed here a street five feet broad, at the top of
which there was hardly two feet between the houses on
either side ; this was probably a remnant of olden times when
as many houses as possible were crammed into a fortified
enceinte. The Jews have a special cemetery of their own, on
the graves of which there seemed nothing except slabs of
stone. The Law Courts and the American Hotel are both
handsome buildings. We also passed Rembrandt Square,
where, besides a statue of the famous painter, there is a
theatre bearing his name. In driving through the streets of
the city we came across the old wall of Amsterdam, more than
half of which has sunk into the soil. Kalver Straat is a much
frequented thoroughfare, where the best shops are to be
found, but on the place where an exhibition was held in 1884
there now stand many new houses, chiefly built of red
bricks. Amsterdam is really a beautiful city, and is said to
be the cleanest town in Europe, but to my thinking Barcelona
THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE— HOLLAND 127
surpasses it. The river Amstel, which flows through it,
enhances its beauty in every way. In the evening when the
street lamps are lighted and the tramcars pass with their
many-coloured lights, the river looks simply enchanting. I
did not expect to find such a magnificent town in Holland.
Amsterdam has from early times been famous for diamond-
polishing. Desiring, therefore, to see the process, we pro-
ceeded on the morning of July 2Qth to one of the mills,
situated in the East part of the town. We were first taken
into a room where rough diamonds are split and dirt and
foreign matter removed. Here a couple of men were work-
ing with practically no instruments beyond two simple
sticks, no larger than a good-sized pencil. At the end of
these sticks was some wax or other similar substance ; the
workman heated this wax, and putting the uncleaned dia-
mond on it, split the latter with another diamond which was
placed on the top of the first. A sort of breach was thus
made in the diamond ; then with a small piece of steel and
a hammer the gem was broken in two pieces. We were next
escorted to the diamond-polishing room. Here we saw a
man place the stones to be polished on round balls attached
to an iron bar, the balls, made of lead and tin, being heated
by fire. There were burning gas jets, and the man touched
these red-hot balls without apparently feeling the heat. He
had been doing this for so long a time that he had lost the
power of sensation in his fingers ; I felt them, and found that
they were as hard as stone ; I saw him put them into the
flame ! After this the diamond was pressed against a wheel,
moistened with oil and diamond dust, which revolved two
thousand times a minute, in order to cut the surface into
facets. Then we saw the finished diamonds in a separate
room, where the head of the factory explained to us that one
kilogramme was equal to 4,800 carats, and that a rose-cut
diamond has twenty-four sides, or facets, whereas a brilliant
has fifty-eight. He then showed us models of all the famous
diamonds in the world, the largest of which was the property
of the Tsar of Russia. The stones were of every hue, black,
white and even coffee-coloured. The coffer in which they are
shown, containing about one hundred models, once belonged
128 TRAVEL PICTURES
to Napoleon, and was sold after his fall. I was also shown
a pair of marvellously accurate scales.
We went from here to the Portuguese Jews' Synagogue —
the oldest building in Amsterdam. There was no ornamental
work, or elaborate altar, such as one would find in a Roman
Catholic Church, but in place of this were doors with steps
leading up to them, each step being 37 feet long. Near the
doors stood beautifully carved pillars, from four to five
hundred years old ; on these we saw the figure of a parrot
with the face of a lion. Hanging near were some old brass
chandeliers, at least two hundred years old. A raised plat-
form occupied the centre of the hall, on this the priest
reads the prayers, the hymns being sung from a still higher
one. The people who come to pray have to wear a special
shawl, made for the purpose, round their shoulders ; these
shawls are kept in the Synagogue under lock and key.
Round the hall runs a gallery for the use of the women, who
sit separately from the men. The era of the Jews com-
mences with the Creation of the World, their present or civil
year being 5664. Their first prophet was Moses.
Our next visit was to the Royal Palace, originally built
as a Town Hall, but during the short time when Louis
Napoleon was nominally King of Holland, the people pre-
sented this building to him as a royal residence. Standing
as it does in the open market place, and having no principal
entrance, it seems hardly suitable for its purpose, though in
some respects the interior is handsomer than many another
palace we have seen, the apartments being richly adorned
with sculptures in white marble, the carving of which is in
high relief. There were also some very good paintings by
famous Dutch artists. The guide showed us the rooms used
by the Queen of Holland when she comes to Amsterdam,
which she does for six days in each year. The furniture is
in the style of Louis XV. and very handsome. Then we
went into a room now used as a dining saloon, in which there
were many doors opening into smaller rooms ; these were
formerly used for the different departments of the admini-
stration. One of them, built as a Bankruptcy Court, is
now used as the Queen's bedroom. Above one of the doors
THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE— HOLLAND 129
of this room is a fine and interesting carving, depicting the
Fall of Icarus, a mythological being who made wings of wax
and tried to reach the sun, upon nearing which his wings
melted and he fell to the earth with fatal results. An orna-
mental moulding represents rats and mice gnawing at empty
money bags and papers. There were also symbolical figures
over the door of the room once used for marine business, and
on that for the registration of marriages was a figure of Venus
with symbols of love-making, such as doves. In another
room was a picture executed by de Witt, in 1739, which so
cleverly imitates sculpture that we were quite deceived by
it ; it is really a wonderful work of art. The Reception
Room, one of the largest and most magnificent halls in
Europe, is lined with white Italian marble, its unsupported
roof being 100 feet high. The walls of both this and the
Throne Room are draped with standards taken from the
countries subdued by Holland in olden times, when she held
command of the seas. Above the entrance to the Throne
Room is the figure of Atlas bearing the world on his
shoulders, the latter being represented by a huge ball on
which the stars are marked. A similar figure stands on the
roof of the Palace.
In the afternoon we went for a drive along the banks of
the river Amstel. The road is beautifully laid out, and
there are a number of small houses which are used as public
cafes and restaurants ; every country except England
having adopted this custom. Further on we came across
a small party of men bathing in the river, who did not seem
the least disconcerted by the presence of the public. Here,
too, we noticed tremendous masses of timber brought down
the river from Germany for building purposes, to act as
piles ; when sunk in the ground the smaller houses are
erected upon them. As soon as they become rotten, the
house is pulled down ; Government inspection is very strict
in this respect, but it is solely for the safety of the people.
Then we turned up a very fine avenue lined with tall trees
and about two miles long. On this road we met a baker's
cart drawn by a pair of dogs ; this was quite a new thing
to me, for I had never heard of a Hund Cart or of any vehicle,
i
130 TRAVEL PICTURES
except a sledge, being drawn by dogs. We took a photo-
graph of this cart, as well as of a white pig covered with mud.
After driving a little further we came to the Schinkelhanen
Restaurant, where we stopped and partook of milk and
lemonade. The milk, though excellent, was not quite as
good as that of Lisbon. Every house in Amsterdam is pro-
vided with a hook at the top ; this is used for lifting heavy
articles, as the staircases are generally very narrow. Another
thing which attracted my attention was that some of the
windows had looking-glasses attached to them, by the help
of which the occupier of the house can see people in the
street without their knowledge. The Telegraph Office, a
fine building, is situated close to the Royal Palace. Later
on in the evening we went for a drive through Rembrandt
Square, passing on our way the Palace of Crystal, a large
glass and iron structure used for exhibitions and concerts,
and possessing a fountain which rises to a great height. We
saw also the New Exchange from the outside ; this hand-
some edifice, situated in front of the Palace, was erected
in 1845 in place of an older one. When trees have been
planted and electric lights put up, it will form a fine place
for recreation and business. I was much surprised at not
seeing electric lights in the Palace, and I was informed that
it was only quite recently that electric trams had been
started.
The people of Holland are very strict in their customs,
as well as in their internal government. Both men and
women have now adopted the ordinary costume of Europe.
The national dress of the women is, I think, most picturesque,
and I do not know why they are giving it up, for it is very
becoming to their plump figures. We noticed only two
women wearing it, but in the south of Holland the national
head-gear may still be seen. The people seem very fond
of fishing and rowing ; I do not know whether they go in
for any other recreation, but as every house has a river or
canal in front of it, the nature of their sports must naturally
be limited. There are so many canals that some houses
may be said to be veritable islands, being surrounded on
all sides by water.
AMSTERDAM, A CANAL
CART DRAWN BY DOGS
THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE— HOLLAND 131
Taking everything into consideration, Amsterdam is one
of the most wonderful cities in Europe. In its intermixture
of land and water it may be compared to Venice, but it is
unique in that the entire city, both houses and canals, is
constructed on foundations of piles. I enjoyed my visit
much, and liked the place immensely ; it has only two draw-
backs in my opinion, one being that the water of the canals
is so dirty, and the other that the roads and streets are not
properly kept.
CHAPTER IX
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN
ON July 30th we got up very early and left the Central
Station of Amsterdam, en route for Hamburg. The country
is flat and has but few trees ; we also noticed fields in which
the crops had been gathered, but saw no standing crops any-
where. At 10.30 we arrived at Bentheim, where German
territory begins. Here the luggage of passengers is ex-
amined, but ours was passed, the Foreign Office having asked
the German authorities to give me all Customs facilities. At
this point the scenery began to change ; the country was no
longer flat, and in some places stood clusters of large trees,
very pleasing to the eye. At 12.15 p.m. (German time 1.15)
we reached Osnabruck, where we changed for Hamburg. We
intended to go by express, but learnt at the station that it
was delayed indefinitely, and so we had to wait there for an
hour and a half, learning afterwards that some of the car-
riages of the train had stuck in a tunnel, which was the cause
of the delay. An Englishman who travelled in our compart-
ment told us that all his luggage had been misdirected, and
we heartily sympathised with him ; such unfortunate things
do sometimes happen on railways. We got to Bremen at
4.10 p.m., where our train was shunted for a quarter of
an hour before resuming its journey. On this line we saw
few places of importance, especially between Bremen and
Hamburg. This is different to England, where one cannot
travel far by rail without constantly passing fairly large
towns.
Hamburg was reached at 6.5 p.m., and we put up at the
132
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 133
Hamburger Hof, a very fine hotel situated on the bank of a
lake in the centre of the town. Whilst dining, a waiter
informed us of a fire which had broken out in some part of
the city, and looking out of the window we saw four or five
engines rushing with great speed to put it out. After dinner
we watched a cafe in front of our hotel, where people of all
sorts, young and old, rich and poor, men and women, were
enjoying themselves immensely, and when lit up by elec-
tricity its different lights were reflected in the smooth surface
of the water. The trees on the banks, the hundreds of plea-
sure boats and landing places, and the clean, well-kept roads
made the whole scene very attractive, magnificent houses and
hotels adding to the general effect. I now think that this
town ranks first, and Barcelona second, as the stately palms
surrounding the cafe give more pleasure to a sight-seer.
Germans are very fond of wine, and every other building is
a cafe or beer-house, beer being so cheap in this country that
the poorest man can enjoy his drink. They are also mad on
smoking ; one hardly ever sees a German without a cigar in
his mouth, and even children smoke.
On the morning of July 3ist we started out to see the
docks, driving as far as the pier, where a steam launch was
awaiting our party. We went all over the docks, which are
really very fine. The first thing we noticed was a clock
tower showing Greenwich time, and further on a big ship, the
" Kaiser Friedrich," which we were informed had been there
for the last two years, having been built for the North
German Lloyd Company, but that they would not take her,
as she was not fast enough and consumed too much coal.
The case was still pending before the Court, and no decision
had been arrived at. In the distance we saw some white
globes ; these turned out to be circular tanks used for storing
the petroleum, imported from America in ships which have
large receptacles for holding the oil. Upon reaching the
docks it is pumped from the ships into these round tanks and
then put on sale. The Hamburg- American Company is one
of the largest steamship lines in the world. One of their
vessels, the " Meteor," was pointed out to us as going for
pleasure trips to Norway, Sweden and the Mediterranean.
134 TRAVEL PICTURES
There were also many other vessels in these docks, amongst
them being a man-of-war floated only three weeks previously,
also the " Kanzler," seized by the British during the Trans-
vaal war, under suspicion of carrying contraband of war.
The British and the Boers were then in great need of steamers,
so the German merchants made much money from both
parties. At that time German steamers carried English as
well as Boers from one place to another, and consequently a
notice was put up in every cabin that passengers were not
allowed to discuss political matters. On some steamers
were flags bearing a cross ; only captains who have been in
the Government Navy are entitled to use this symbol. There
were two four-masted sailing ships in the harbour, belonging
to M. Pangani, who owns the biggest sailing ship in the world,
as well as two others with five masts each, one of which is
called the " Potosi." Here also we saw several ships under
repair, and what interested us greatly, some huge cranes
which could lift very heavy articles; transferring, for instance,
the whole contents of a railway wagon into a ship in no time.
Further on we saw a machine used for unloading wheat and
barley, called a " wheat elevator/' A long hose is attached
to this machine and, when put into the hold of a ship, it sucks
up all the grain, conveying it either to a warehouse, railway
wagon or smaller steamer, as the case may be. We were
informed that Blohm and Vass were the largest firm of ship
builders in the world. Then we went into the Wilhelm
Docks, opened only a few years previously by the present
Emperor. There are locks here worked by electricity for
regulating the depth of the docks. Our guide was a most
intelligent man who knew his work thoroughly. Some time
ago he was in South Africa, doing very well, but unfortu-
nately he lost all his money, so now the poor fellow has to
undertake the work of a guide. We then left our steamer in
order to visit the warehouses. As it was Sunday these were
all closed, but we saw the extent of both docks and
warehouses, the latter stretching for half a mile. Our
attention was directed to a range of bonded warehouses,
where goods for re-exportation could be stored without
duty being paid on them, so long as they are not removed
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 135
into the town. This system must be a great convenience
for merchants.
Proceeding next to the landing place we saw, in a lofty
tower, a meter working automatically and showing the vary-
ing depth of the water caused by the high and low tides.
From this place an excellent view of the town was obtained.
We had already noticed the Observatory, the Marine Hos-
pital and an unfinished Marine School, also the scaffolding
of the Bismarck Monument, in course of erection. This
great man did much for his country by uniting all the
small states and bringing them under one government,
that of the King of Prussia, who became German Emperor
in 1871.
Luncheon over, we went out again for a drive, visiting the
Town Hall, which is such a fine building that people often
come to study its architecture ; in front of this stands a
statue of William I. After passing the Exchange, we came
to a park where the Civil and Criminal Courts are situated,
whilst near by stood a fortress, demolished by Napoleon I.
We were shown also the imaginary line which constitutes
the boundary between Hamburg and Altona ; the uniforms
of the police of the latter town are quite different to those of
Hamburg, the one being in Prussia and the other in Germany.
Then we saw the Post Office ; I am not exaggerating when
I assert that this is a quarter of a mile in length.
In Germany no man and woman walk arm in arm, except
husband and wife or a man and his fiancee. When a couple
are engaged, cards are sent to friends and relations to inform
them of the fact. A wreath is placed on a new house when
it is finished all but the roof.
The Crematorium was our next point of interest, but
before reaching it we saw many places where monuments
were exposed for sale. We had to buy tickets to admit us
inside. It is a clean, circular red-brick building surmounted
by a dome, on which is a painting of the rising sun. The
interior contains a frame of iron bars, and when a dead body
is brought in to be cremated, this frame slides back, a lift is
raised from below, on which the coffin is placed, and as the
latter is lowered, the frame slides over it again in order to
136 TRAVEL PICTURES
hide its descent. Then the coffin is taken from the lift, put
on a trolley and pushed into a closed oven or furnace, which
is heated to a temperature of 1000° Centigrade, and in an
hour and a half to an hour and forty minutes the body, to-
gether with the coffin, is burnt to ashes. As the ashes of
a man are fifty per cent, heavier than those of wood or
clothes, they fall automatically into one jar, the remainder
falling into another. When the ashes have cooled, they are
placed in a leaden urn and sealed by an official of the Crema-
torium, each seal bearing the inscription " Crematorium zu
Hamburg." Many of the urns filled with ashes were de-
corated with wreaths and black ribbons. We went on to
the cemetery, one of the finest in the world and very neatly
laid out, the graves being screened from the road by trees.
There are six chapels for funeral services. On the afternoon
of our visit there was a large and important funeral. The
coffin was carried in a hearse drawn by black horses with
black plumes nodding on their heads ; we watched it being
taken out of the hearse and carried into the chapel.
On our way to the Crematorium we arranged at a cafe to
dine there that evening at 8 o'clock. We drove back to
the hotel, past the pretty villas on the banks of the lake,
admiring as we went their front gardens with green turf and
beautiful flowers of every hue. One thing, however, we
could not help noticing, and that was the poor condition of
the Hamburg horses, which are both lean and sorry-looking.
We reached Uhlenhorster Fahrhaus before 8 o'clock, and
found, to our great surprise, that the table reserved for us
had been taken by some other people who were enjoying
their dinner. We had to wait for a while in an elaborately
furnished drawing-room. However, in a few minutes the
manager of the place appeared, apologised very humbly for
the mistake, and begged us to wait for a few seconds. In a
very short time we found ourselves on the terrace, sitting
round a nicely-laid table. Facing us was a semi-circular
building where the band of the 3ist regiment was discoursing
excellent music, whilst hundreds of people were taking their
meals at small tables under the trees. Those who had
finished were walking about quite happily, listening to the
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 137
music. I cannot understand how they enjoyed walking, as
they were packed like sardines, with scarcely room to move,
but still they seemed to be in excellent spirits. This
place is really beautiful and the music good, but it was too
crowded. Perhaps I ought not to criticise, as they know
their own tastes and comforts best. While the music was
going on, shrill, discordant whistles every other minute
announced the arrival of steamers. We returned to the
hotel at ii p.m.
At 9 a.m. on August ist we left beautiful Hamburg for
Denmark. After passing through the Sammthor and several
other stations in the environs of Hamburg and Altona, our
train proceeded to Kiel. I had a slight headache, and went
to sleep in the carriage, so did not see much of the country,
which is more or less flat, with woods here and there. We
reached Kiel at 11.15 a.m., and five minutes later found us
on board the " Prinz Adelbert," which was just leaving for
Korsor. The harbour of Kiel is so wide that we did not lose
sight of the land for a considerable time ; it is beautiful, too,
with a high wooded bank on the west side. From our boat
we could see the ships at anchor, as well as some men-of-war
painted like English battleships. We also noticed fortifica-
tions bristling with huge cannon. When we got out into
the open sea, the boat began to roll and rain fell in torrents.
At i p.m. luncheon was served, but the sea was so rough that
neither Umrao Singh or I could take anything ; we had, in
fact, to leave the dining-saloon, he retiring to his cabin,
whilst I stretched myself on a wooden frame near the screw,
where I remained until 4 o'clock, when I was able to take
some tea and biscuits. The Island of Heligoland is not far
from Hamburg. This place belonged to the English, but
some years ago they exchanged it for a protectorate over
Zanzibar, which then belonged to Germany. Zanzibar is
now rising in prosperity in every way, whilst Heligoland is
being encroached upon by the sea ; in a short time the island
will probably be washed away, and the inhabitants will have
to seek some other home.
We reached Korsor, a Danish port, at 4.30 p.m., the train
leaving the station half an hour later for Copenhagen. The
138 TRAVEL PICTURES
carriages were very narrow, but had cushions such as I had
not seen in any other railway. The country, though gene-
rally flat, is broken here and there by low hills, and the woods
are numerous and beautiful. There are innumerable fields
also containing crops of barley, wheat, oats and vegetables ;
the whole country being devoted to agricultural pursuits.
The cattle are chocolate-coloured. In Holland the fields
have dykes round them, in England there are walls and
fences, in Denmark neither.
Upon arriving at Copenhagen the same evening we found
no one from the hotel to meet us. Major Benn learnt from
the telephone that they had only one room to give us, all
the others being occupied, owing to the crush due to a f£te
which was being held there. Major Benn tried some other
hotels, without success. Then he took a carriage and went
to some second-rate ones, all of which were equally full.
The English ambassador was not there, but the Embassy
sent an official, who did his best for us in every way, though
without result. We had a good mind to take the next train
to Berlin, until after some very exciting moments a carriage
arrived and a man asked us to go to the Hotel d'Angleterre,
where we found everything ready for us. Major Benn had
sent a telegram to the manager telling him to reserve five
bed-rooms, but the latter had read the message as " fine bed-
rooms." After all we were very comfortable in this hotel,
and proved the truth of " All's well that ends well !"
The following morning we took a drive through the prin-
cipal streets, passing on our way a huge embankment which
had served as fortifications in olden times, but was now
useless, no one caring to keep it in order. We went to the
picture gallery ; many of the pictures are really very good,
but the best of all, to my thinking, is that of " A Christian
in Prison," by Karl Block. Everything in this picture is
rendered with so much accuracy that it can safely be said
to be one of the best in the world. We saw another by the
same painter, representing the self-devotion of a daughter
of Christian IV., who insisted on sharing her husband's im-
prisonment for high treason. The ordinary people here look
as well as the gentlemen of other countries, their dress being
COPENHAGEN, A GROUP OF STATUARY
POTSDAM, DOGS' GRAVES, SANS-SOUCI
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 139
so neat and their manners so extremely polite. The public
places were not so crowded as they had been the pre-
vious day, the people who had come for the fair having
returned to their homes. On several roads I noticed the word
" Cycliste " written up. This referred to a small track made
at the side of the promenade for the sole use of cyclists, a great
comfort to them as well as to the other people, as it enabled
wheelmen to go at a higher speed than they could otherwise
have done. We saw a bottle of beer, 20 feet high, as an
advertisement of a brewery. Indians should take a lesson
from their European brothers with regard to advertising.
In the evening I visited the King's Palace, but it is closed
for cleaning purposes on the first Tuesday of each month,
and this was unfortunately the first Tuesday in August.
After seeing other important buildings, we drove on through
Tuborg, obtaining in the distance a view of the Crown
Prince's residence. A little further on we saw the Prince
himself standing in a corner of the garden. The Royal
Family is very popular with the public. The guide told
us that both father and son were fond of mixing with their
subjects, and always took the greatest interest in them ;
this is an admirable practice, nothing could be better. Re-
turning to the Royal Palace, Major Benn and I wrote our
names in the visitors' books of the King and Princes. The
palace is quite small, but when the King has guests staying
with him he removes to a larger one. In the gardens we
saw a small bungalow in which the unmarried brother of
the King lives ; this was built by Russian labourers with
Russian timber by order of the late Tsar, who, on its com-
pletion, presented it to the King of Denmark. While in the
town we heard that His Majesty had been seriously ill, and
felt very anxious, as our Queen is one of his daughters ; we
were pleased to learn, however, from servants of the royal
establishment that he was in good health. The gate-keeper
there wanted to be photographed, so Major Benn took a
snapshot of him. In an enclosure of the park there were as
many as two thousand deer of all kinds ; the enormous
antlers of some made them look very formidable, but they
were really so tame that our carriage did not frighten them.
140 TRAVEL PICTURES
The park is finely timbered, the beeches being especially
magnificent ; though much larger than that at Chatsworth,
it is not nearly as well kept. On our way back we saw, in
the distance, the coast of Sweden, also the island of Hveen,
where Tycho Brahe, a great astronomer, resided. There is
another island which contains the grave of Hamlet, the hero
of Shakespeare's play of that name. On our way we stopped
at the restaurant " Ny Strand Pavillion " to take some
coffee ; here a string band was playing, consisting of two
'cellos, two violins and a piano. Then we went on to a
cemetery, where the English soldiers are buried who fell
in an engagement with the English fleet under Nelson in
1801. This site is always to be kept open and never
built upon.
We left Copenhagen at 10.30 a.m. on August 3rd, and after
passing Roeskilde, Kjoge, Nestved and Vordingborg, arrived
at Masnedsund, where our train ran on board the steamer
" Alexandra/' which took fifteen minutes to cross the sea.
An hour's journey on by train brought us to Falster, at the
opposite extremity of the island. At Gjedserodde our train
was again taken on board ship, this time by the steamer
" Prinz Christian," and at 4 o'clock we reached that beautiful
place Warnemunde, on the shore of the Baltic Sea. Be-
tween Denmark and Falster we saw another steamer, the
" Thyra," ferrying a train across. The Baltic was very
smooth all the way, and we enjoyed ourselves immensely.
The Island of Falster belongs to Denmark ; it is very fertile,
and for this reason reckoned one of its most valuable por-
tions. Lightning conductors are much in use in this country
on account, I suppose, of the severity and frequency of
thunderstorms in these parts. At 4.30 we left Warnemunde,
arriving at Berlin at 8.45 p.m. We had journeyed through
fields of waving corn and fruitful land. At several places
a number of machines were at work cutting and making
stalks of wheat and barley into sheaves ; this was quite a
new thing to us. I wonder when Indians will take to this
sort of machinery. The fields were surrounded by wooden
fences or stone walls. From our train we could see some
beautiful lakes and extremely fine scenery.
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 141
Everyone is free to express his own opinion, and I there-
fore take the liberty of comparing the two cities. No doubt
Paris is very beautiful, but I find it difficult to decide be-
tween it and Berlin. In Paris there is little room for im-
provement, whereas Berlin can still be greatly improved,
and if the present Kaiser continues to take the same interest
in it which he now takes, Berlin may become the finest city
in the world. I cannot find a better name for this place
than to call it a city of statues. It also contains many
grand and stately houses. The Hotel Bristol, in which we
stayed, is one of the best in the world. In front of it are
many well-metalled roads, and a fine promenade with
avenues of tall trees ; and in the evening, when hundreds
of electric lamps are lighted, the effect is very striking.
During the morning we went for a drive, passing through
the Brandenburg Gate, on the top of which stands a car of
Victory which was carried to Paris by Napoleon I. as a
trophy in 1805 and brought back by General Blucher in
1814 ; originally the horses faced away from the city,
now they face towards it. After this we went down an
avenue, at the far end of which is a high column adorned by
the statue of Victory, erected in commemoration of the
Franco-German war of 1870-71. On the road which leads
to this column there are many statues of people of note ; it
is a wonderful place, and no visitor should miss it. We
came next to the Thiergarten, where we saw a statue of
William I. at the age of seventeen years ; coming a little
further on to that of Wagner, the great musical composer.
This statue was erected by the members of the Wagner
Club. After driving through the principal streets, we saw
the French and German Churches, built by architects of
their respective countries. They were both of one design
and the same material. I was told that there was some
competition between the rival architects as to who should
first complete the building, but the German forgot the hands
of the clock, and so he was disqualified. This clock stands
without any hands to this day to mark the history of the
churches and the forgetfulness of the architect. A religious
man might perhaps be shocked at seeing a fine theatre
142 TRAVEL PICTURES
sandwiched in between these two churches. Then we visited
the National Gallery, the new Cathedral, the Arsenal and
the Palace of Kaiser Wilhelm the First. The latter is a
handsome building, full of valuable objets d'art, including
vases and fruit-holders presented by the Tsar of Russia,
made of the famous Russian stones, malachite and lapis-
lazuli. We next entered a circular hall, with a dome over-
head, which reproduces an echo twenty-six times if one
speaks into it once. Visitors are each supplied with a pair
of flat slippers to protect the floor of the Palace from the
heels of their boots. In one of the Queen's rooms we saw
a portrait of Queen Louise, the mother of Wilhelm the First.
This Princess was very beautiful, and the artist has done
her full justice. There is also a famous window, at which
her son, the old Kaiser Wilhelm, used to show himself to
his people. Both he and Prince Bismarck did a great deal
of good to their country.
After luncheon we went by train to Potsdam, which we
reached just before 3 o'clock. Here the King of Prussia lives
for nine months of the year. On our way to the Garrison
Church we passed the residence of the Crown Prince, who,
according to German law, is allowed full control over his
property on attaining the age of twenty- two. In this church
we saw the royal pew, and many flags captured by Germany
in the Franco-German war ; there were also the coffins of
Frederick the Great and his father. When Napoleon was
in Berlin in 1805 he ordered the coffin of Frederick the Great
to be opened, and appropriated the sword of the dead king.
When the Commander-in-Chief, Blucher, was successful
against the French, he brought it back with other trophies
which Napoleon had removed.
Perched on a hill above the town of Potsdam is the Palace
of Sans-Souci, a favourite residence of Frederick the Great,
and built for him in 1745-7. It is charmingly situated in
well-laid out gardens, where a beautiful fountain throws up
water to a great height. The room which Frederick had
made for Voltaire is decorated with finely carved fruit,
flowers and birds, and there are two figures of monkeys on
the waste paper basket. The great Voltaire was received
THE NEW PALACE
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 143
kindly and treated well in every way, but on his return to
France he learnt that the King used to make fun of him, and
this so annoyed him that, in spite of repeated invitations
from the German Court, he never returned. We were shown
a room known as the " Spider's Room," where the web of a
spider is worked in gold on the ceiling. The story attached
to this is, that when the King was taking coffee in this room,
a spider fell into his cup, whereupon the King gave the con-
tents of the cup to his favourite dog, who immediately died.
It was discovered afterwards that the French cook had put
some poison in the coffee to kill the King, who then had this
ceiling painted in memory of the spider which had thus saved
his life. Frederick the Great was passionately attached to
dogs. Was it he who said, " The more I see of men, the
fonder I get of dogs " ? On the terrace of Sans-Souci there
is a little cemetery where his canine favourites repose. On
a hill above this Palace stood a wind-mill, which, when work-
ing, made so much noise that the King was unable to sleep
comfortably, so he desired to purchase it, and made an offer
to the mill-owner, who declined to part with it. Then the
King ordered that the mill should be confiscated by the State,
upon which the owner had recourse to the law courts, and
won his case. After this incident the King and he became
excellent friends, and the mill remains as a monument of
justice. There is a beautiful conservatory, containing valu-
able collections of all sort of plants. We then went over the
Palace, His Majesty being away in Denmark at the time. A
vast garden is beautifully laid out in front, in which I noticed
a number of English oak trees lately planted and, near by,
extensive preserves for game. An avenue five miles in
length leads to forests in which boars run wild. In all Ger-
man towns there is a particular smell which assails one every-
where, for these people are very fond of scents and use them
profusely ; even our guide had a small spray-producer in his
pocket filled with Eau-de-Cologne. Here we saw, for the
first time, a trochometer in a carriage, which automatically
registered the distance travelled, and also showed what
amount was due to the driver. In this country the driver
always expects a small tip in addition to the hire, just as the
144 TRAVEL PICTURES
London cabby looks for something beyond his actual fare.
Berlin drivers of carriages on hire wear white top hats, and
to every vehicle a bar is attached, on which is written the
word " free." When the carriage is empty this bar remains
upright, but as soon as it has been engaged the bar is
lowered.
We left Potsdam at 4.19 p.m., and twenty-five minutes
later were back in Berlin. In the evening we went to buy
some views of Berlin at the shop of Herr Tictz, which is one of
the largest in Berlin. The lights were beautifully arranged,
two rows, and two brass peacocks, being lit up by electricity,
which looked superb. After dinner we visited a beer garden.
The Germans are greatly addicted to beer, and our guide told
us that he could drink as many as fifteen glasses at a sitting !
The following curious custom will illustrate the swallowing
propensities of the Germans : Supposing amongst friends one
of the party leaves some beer in his glass, and the others
manage to empty their dregs into the half finishedone,the
owner of it has to pay for beer all round ! ( These people
seem to live on music and beeif ; "some TWO OT three thOUScina
were walking about, while two bands filled the air with good
music. When a vacancy occurs in a students' " corps " at
the Heidelberg University, and there are several candidates,
the latter sit on either side of a table, the president and mem-
bers occupying seats at the same table. Then tall beer
glasses are given to the candidates, who, at a signal from the
president, begin gulping down their contents, the one who
empties his glass first being alone made a member of the club.
There is one thing I cannot understand — why Germans bathe
so seldom ; there is hardly a man in this country who takes
a daily bath. One cannot have music or give a ball at one's
house after certain hours without the permission of the police.
Luncheon is taken between twelve and one o'clock, and
dinner between six and seven, after which the people go to
beer houses, where they remain until eleven o'clock. In
Europe, carriages and trains coming from opposite directions
always pass on their left-hand side. In England it is just the
reverse, and in India we have copied England.
On the morning of August 5th we left the hotel at 8.30
HAMBURG, COPENHAGEN, BERLIN 145
a.m., and, upon reaching the station, saw some prisoners who
were going to the fields to work. They wore boots and blue
suits, but neither iron fetters nor handcuffs, and each had a
bag suspended from his shoulder. There were only two or
three constables in charge of about twenty prisoners. Our
train left Berlin for Marienbad exactly at 8.55, and at all other
stations the train was punctual to the minute. The scenery
in places was charming ; running parallel with the railway
line was a stream of water which added greatly to the general
effect.
CHAPTER X
MARIENBAD; AND MY WATER CURE
WE reached Marienbad at 3.7 p.m., and drove to the Hotel
Klinger, after a very hot journey. When we started from
Berlin we had plenty of money for our expenses on the way,
but having to spend it all in paying the railway authorities
for extra tickets we were penniless, and had to do without
luncheon ! The Hotel Klinger is pleasantly situated oppo-
site the park, and the roads are beautifully kept.
I felt so tired the following day that I was late in rising.
Dr. Ott came during the morning to examine me, and, after
careful investigation, ordered me to take the waters and a
certain amount of exercise, advocating also the use of mineral
baths, as he said my spleen was a little enlarged, adding that,
as my heart was in perfect order, he hoped good results would
be obtained from the cure. He is a clever and charming man,
speaking English with a slightly foreign accent.
During the afternoon Major Benn and I went for a drive
in the neighbouring woods, which are indeed beautiful ; pine
trees of a great height predominate everywhere ; I had never
seen such tall ones before, and the scent from some felled
timber lying near the road was delicious. We stopped on
our way and took coffee at a hotel. Major Benn bought two
drinking glasses with slings in which to carry them in readi-
ness for my treatment, which was to begin the following day.
On our way back we passed through elm forests, where we
came across a good many deer and partridges. Upon
emerging from the wood we came out on a road giving us a
view of the railway line running from Marienbad to Eger,
146
a
=
o
MARIENBAD 147
which brought us to the place where the mineral waters are
to be obtained. There used to be a spring here some time
ago, but now a machine has been erected on the spot, which
takes three men to work it. One stands in the centre and
keeps the glass reservoir filled with water from the spring,
whilst the other two press the taps. The reservoir, which
holds ten glasses of water at a time, has tubes attached to it
through which the water is kept flowing, and anyone can
draw it easily from them. There are also four or five taps of
warm water, a few drops of which may be added to the spring
water should the doctor so prescribe. Two glasses must be
taken every morning at fixed intervals, between which the
patient walks up and down the promenade, keeping his glass
attached to the sling which goes round his shoulder ; with the
glass is a tube, through which he slowly sips the water. I
was up at 5 a.m. on August 7th, as I wanted to be in good
time to begin my treatment. Major Benn and I were on the
ground by 7 o'clock accompanied by Abdul Ghafur, bearing
the two glasses in which to fetch the water for me. He
had to take his place in a long file of men and women, all
moving at a very slow pace, but all alike with one aim,
namely to reach the spring. It took Abdul Ghafur twenty
minutes to arrive there, though the distance was scarcely
200 feet. There were three girls distributing water to the
patients. Whether I lose weight or not, I am certainly
relieved of the dread of being over stout. In this happy land
I have seen some people who have attained immense propor-
tions, among the number being a great many priests who live
on the fat of the land, feeding on other people's money, just
as our Brahmans do. They get the very best wine to drink,
the richest food to eat and have very little to do, so it is
not surprising that they become fat. The sky was clouded
nd a cool morning breeze was blowing. I walked up and
down, and drank the waters as Dr. Ott had prescribed,
after which we went to a flower shop, where I ordered some
button-holes to be sent us every day, and bought a pot of
flowers for my room. I saw some lotuses for sale, the sight
of which took me back to my own dear country. After
luncheon I rested for a while, and later on went for a drive
148 TRAVEL PICTURES
on the road to Bad Sangerbery, returning to the restaurant
for coffee. Dr. Ramlal and Thakur Umrao Singh were also
with us. On our way we noticed a small tank, the water
of which was used for the streets of Marienbad, but its
contents were at a low ebb, needing replenishment by rain.
We walked about the springs, enjoying the pleasant breeze
which had sprung up since we set out.
On August 8th I again took the waters at the fixed hours.
There are people from every part of the world to be found
at Marienbad. During the morning we saw some Hungarian
women in their quaint national costume, which I think
very picturesque and becoming. The skirts are so short
that their ankles are always visible. Their head-dress is
very uncommon, being blue in colour and shaped something
like a bonnet ; projecting side pieces, fringed with lace, are
placed at the back in such a position that they give the whole
the effect of a triangle.
About midday a masseur, Carl Wallasch by name, came
to me. Before commencing the treatment he rubbed various
parts of my body with vaseline, just as old women in India
anoint children with oil, afterwards sprinkling some spirit
on the rubbed parts.
There is a regular routine to be observed by patients
undergoing medical treatment at these springs ; after lun-
cheon one has to take a rest, going later on in the afternoon
either for a walk or drive to the villages in the vicinity of
Marienbad. It being the fruit season, the apple and pear
trees, with which the road was lined, were laden. We saw,
on a hill in the distance, the remains of a village which had
been burnt down the previous year, catching glimpses also
of the villages of Neudrof, Kuttenplan and Durrmaul. The
people of this part are mostly Roman Catholics and very
devout ; consequently in every village one finds shrines, at
which passers-by are expected to pray for the peace of de-
parted souls ; whilst at the cross roads and many other
places stand large figures of Jesus Christ. It was harvest
time, and the fields looked very beautiful with their standing
crops of golden grain. Steam and other machinery not
having been yet introduced here, the people still do their
MARIENBAD 149
work by hand, though the implements used are not of the
superior quality one sees in England. They carry loads in
baskets attached to their shoulders, and many of the country
women walk without either shoes or stockings. Their skirts
reminded me somewhat of those of the Indian women, but
they were unlike them in carrying loads on their shoulders
instead of their heads. Clover grows wild here as in England,
and bears dark pink flowers ; it makes excellent fodder for
cattle and horses. The carts are drawn by bullocks and
cows ; as these have no hump, a yoke is not used, but in its
place a chain or rope is attached to the forehead of the
animal, so that it draws the cart with its head instead of its
shoulders, as in India. We got very good milk here, inferior
only to that of Lisbon.
On August gth I went to the Baths, a magnificent building
about five minutes' walk from the hotel. The porter con-
ducted me to a room, where a woman in attendance prepared
the bath after seeing my ticket. Dr. Ott had prescribed
that about 2 Ibs. of carbonate of soda should be mixed with
the water for bathing, which was done, and had also in-
structed that the temperature of the bath should be 25°
Centigrade, or 74° Fahrenheit. The room into which I was
shown was a beautiful one, and might rightly have been
called a sitting-room ; it contained chairs, a sofa and a few
tables. A window overlooked the road and a door led into
another room, divided by three arches into two smaller ones,
a round hole in the middle arch giving the necessary light.
This room contained only a few toilet articles and a chair.
After undressing I proceeded to the next room, where a vast
bath-tub stood, to which different pipes were attached for
water, hot air and so on. There was a large window of
stained glass, and the walls were decorated with really hand-
me tiles, whilst the ceiling was painted with imaginary
figures. The doctor had prescribed that I should remain in
the bath for ten minutes. There was an iron box which
held towels, a hot air pipe being attached to keep them warm.
The soda already mentioned was duly added to my bath and
produced some effervescence. Upon emerging from the bath,
one has, without any previous drying, to wrap oneself in a
150 TRAVEL PICTURES
hot towel and lie down on a sofa opposite the bath for ten
minutes in order to get cool ; after performing these rites
I dressed myself and drove to the hotel. As a rule both the
porter and the bath attendant expect a tip. Dr. Ott came
to see me about 12.30 ; he asked me how I felt, and I told
him that the waters were not strong enough, so he said that
I should put a small quantity of Brunnen salt into my first
glass and repeat the dose every other day.
In the afternoon we went for a drive, and took coffee at the
Cafe Egerlander. From here to Marienbad proper there is
a shady road with fine trees on either side meeting overhead,
so there is no chance of feeling too much sun. When we
were drinking our coffee Princess Lwoff Parlaghy came into
the garden ; I went to speak to her, and she invited us to
her rooms in the cafe, from which there was a fine view of
the surrounding country. The Princess wanted to paint
my portrait for an exhibition she was going to hold here
shortly in aid of a charity ; she is a most charming woman.
We returned through woods full of hares and deer.
The following day I saw some boys wearing caps of different
colours. In Germany every school has its own colours, and
boys who are educated in them have to wear the caps peculiar
to each. We noticed four women in Hungarian dress pro-
menading up and down here. At the Cafe Egerlander we
saw a man cutting out silhouettes ; we asked him to cut ours,
and he came to my sitting-room with his wife for the purpose.
He snips them out with a pair of scissors in no time, and a
minute suffices for the production of a black profile likeness.
On August nth His Majesty King Edward VII. arrived
here from London under the name of " Lord Lancaster " ;
which means that he was travelling incognito. In India
such a thing is not possible ; I should have thought it im-
possible anywhere, and that kings under any other name
would receive the same respect from the people. It is
certainly true that in India there is no difference between
public and private life.
Dr. Ott prescribed a powder every other morning, ex-
tracted from the spring water, the addition of which
rendered its taste more brackish. I went again to the
MARIENBAD
THE KURGARTEN
MARIENBAD 151
baths ; it is really quite a treat to go there. In front of
the building there is a nice park where there are many walks
protected from the sun by the cool shade of trees. In
the evening we drove to Podhorn. At this beautiful place
there is a small tower protected by wooden planks, and
reached by a long flight of steps in bad repair. We were
met at the summit by a man who had a map of Marienbad
and its environs and binoculars for the use of visitors, as a
very fine panoramic view of the country is obtained from
here. On our way back from Podhorn we took coffee at
the Cafe Rubezal, where every waitress is supplied with a
number of tickets, one of which she places on the table to
which she is attending. On this ticket is printed the girl's
name as well as that of the restaurant, and on the other is
the usual advertisement that very good tea may be obtained
there. From the top of this building we could see the
monasteries of Tepl, to which the springs of Marienbad
belong, and also two railways, one going to Neuhof and the
other to Carlsbad. Scattered groves of pine trees contri-
buted to the exquisite beauty of the surrounding scenery.
We descended to the cafe and, as we drank our coffee,
listened to a man playing German songs on a zither, consist-
ing of some wires stretched on a little sounding-board ;
when struck with a quill-shaped instrument it emits sounds
resembling those of our Indian sitar. He played several
pieces beautifully, and I enjoyed the evening very much.
Russians are very fond of tea, but always mix lemon in it
instead of milk. As we returned to the hotel I saw some
men breaking stones ; they had a wire gauze in front of
their eyes to protect them from the splinters. Such masks
might be introduced into India with much advantage.
On the morning of August I2th, while strolling quietly
about, we noticed that people became very excited and began
running towards a particular spot. In a few minutes we saw
His Majesty passing near us, and realized that these people
had run to get a glimpse of him. Someone told me that the
last time King Edward was here people ran after him to
such an extent that he had to seek refuge in a shop. Every-
one wanted to be able to say afterwards that they had had
152 TRAVEL PICTURES
a chance of touching a king. The Burgomaster of Marienbad
had placed notices on the trees of the Promenade stating
that the King must not be inconvenienced, but no one pays
any attention to them, and in a few days the curiosity dies
out of itself. His Majesty, who had come to take the waters,
was dressed in a red shirt and rough brown tweed suit, with
a hat to match. We took off our hats and bowed to him.
In the evening we went for a long drive, as far as Rojan,
and on returning drank coffee at the Cafe Panorama, well
named on account of the beautiful view of the country ob-
tained from it. Near Marienbad the cattle are dun-coloured,
which is rare in other countries. We watched the man who
looked after them, and heard him " jodelling " or uttering
a shrill melodious sound which attracts the cows when he
wishes to collect them.
In Europe music is so contrived that, when a song is pro-
duced in one language, the people of other countries can
make words to suit it, and thus every one recognizes the tune
at once. They may not know the wording of the song
in German, but they are bound to know it either in English
or in their mother-tongue. If Indians want to cultivate a
taste for European music they should adopt standard pieces
and set words in their own language to them. I have heard
many, many Englishmen humming a tune which a German
band was playing ; they did not know the German words,
but were familiar with English set to the same music. I
think India would do well to give cosmopolitanism to her
excellent music, and this would not be very difficult.
Corn is cut here with very long scythes furnished with a
fragile attachment to prevent the cut corn from falling
down.
All people employed in continental hotels have to work
very hard, but German girls in the same capacity are made
to toil still harder. Those who are employed in this hotel
get hardly any rest, except for two or three hours in the
twenty-four.
The band used to play at 6 o'clock in the morning, but on
August i4th a change took place, and it played thencefor-
ward from 6.30 a.m. In view of the approaching visit of the
MARIENBAD 153
Austrian Emperor decorations were being put up with all
possible haste ; electric lights, massed closely together on
the trees on the Promenade, and lanterns of different colours
all helped to give a good effect. The balconies were draped
with many kinds of cloth, and pictures of the Emperor might
be seen in nearly every window, whilst green wreaths were
greatly in vogue. High posts bearing flags had been planted
in the ground, and the park was swept with much care, so
that the whole place looked gay and festive.
We dined with Princess Lwoff Parlaghy at the Egerlander
Cafe. As it grew darker the lamps in the town were gradually
lighted, and presented a fairy-like appearance ; being in the
garden we could see it all well. The Princess was, as usual,
charming in her manners ; she spoke English with a slightly
foreign accent, which was very sweet. The people here were
also busy decorating. Very long flags were used, and I was
amused to see them hanging carpets out of their windows.
We visited the Metternich Museum, which is situated at
Konigswart, only three or four miles from Marienbad. There
is a good collection here of all sorts of things, amongst them
being many kinds of birds beautifully stuffed, and even a
peacock. Arranged on shelves are some 37,000 well-bound
books, as well as a black stone from Egypt, inscribed with
hieroglyphics, 3,000 to 4,000 years old. In the same room
stood a washstand used by Napoleon while in Elba, after
abdicating the French throne. A good collection of bank
notes from all countries, a fine table and walking stick of
rhinoceros hide, also a figure moulded from bread by a man
confined in prison, are among many other interesting curio-
sities. This museum is well worth a visit.
I had been travelling in different countries of Europe for
four months, and during that time had scarcely seen one
person with good teeth — I mean real teeth, not false. Not
being a doctor, I am unable to treat this subject scientifically,
but to a certain extent I am in a position to say a few words
on it from my own experience. The staple food of Europeans
is meat, which is consumed at every meal. If the proportion
of vegetables were increased it would be wiser. Another
fact is that the meat is not sufficiently cooked, requiring an
154 TRAVEL PICTURES
excessive amount of mastication, and consequently the teeth
suffer. After eating, again, the mouth is not properly
rinsed ; in this way matter is allowed to remain between the
teeth, and when it decomposes it injuriously affects them.
The practice of removing particles of food from between the
teeth with a tooth-pick is very harmful. But the most im-
portant point is the food itself. All the dishes are hot, except
ices, and it is very injurious to eat ices after very hot food, as
Europeans often do. The quick changes of temperature in
these cold climates, from which one finds it hard to escape,
are bad enough, and their inhabitants naturally choose hot
dishes to warm them ; it must be merely in order to gratify
their taste that they consume ices. Last, but not least, comes
the abundance of dentists ; as soon as there is anything
wrong, off one goes to a dentist, who will always do some-
thing, whether it be needed or not. I think a man should
only go to the dentist when he requires a complete set of false
teeth, which is usually the case with Europeans over forty.
In a museum I saw the picture of a lady whose hair was
7*87 feet in length. There were also some walking sticks,
one of which had belonged to Prince Talleyrand, the greatest
turncoat of his age.
We sallied forth to have another look at the decorations
which were now practically ready, only a few finishing
touches being required. Chinese lanterns were suspended
in every window, and there was hardly a tree without one.
The authorities had constructed a gateway with four pillars
supporting a dome surmounted by the imperial crown, in
which were coloured electric lights representing different
precious stones. A powerful electric lamp was suspended
from the ceiling, and on the summit there were eight figures
of angels with wreaths in their hands ; this was really a
masterpiece of its kind. Bands and drums were playing,
and there was also a clatter of arms, as well as the tramp of
soldiers who were going to line the streets. The firemen
had ropes round their chests and hatchets slung to their
belts ; the former are used for saving the lives of persons
in danger, and the hatchets for cutting through wooden walls
as a means of escape. The Austrian Emperor drove past
MARIENBAD 155
our hotel, our King being in the carriage. The Burgomaster
of Marienbad did everything to make the visit a success.
The illustrious guest took his departure on August lyth.
The Rubezal is one of the best cafes at Marienbad. Here
rugs are lent free to the visitors, which no doubt proves a
great attraction. When people walk up hills, they get too
hot, and when they sit down are liable to catch cold, so that
if anyone can find a means of protection against the keen
winds generally experienced in Europe, it is welcomed. I
saw a curious thing at this cafe. A party of Germans
sitting at a table asked the waiter to give them rugs and soon
after ordered ices ; thus, while wrapping themselves up to
keep off the cold, they were at the same time eating ices.
The blankets must have been used to help to melt the ice
inside them !
Major Benn and I went to the reading-rooms, which are
very like the bath-house, but contain a library. A reception
had been held here the previous day, in honour of the
Austrian Emperor, in the largest room. At its further end
were many plants surrounding a bust of the Imperial guest.
Tropical plants are greatly valued, finding on such occasions
prominent places among their European brothers. Then we
passed on to the ball-room, which is also spacious, but the
roof is scarcely high enough.
We often went to the Cafe Podhorn, which was quite our
favourite, and, fortunately for us, we happened to be there
on August I7th when our King paid it a visit. As I was
dressed in my English clothes I felt certain that I should
not be recognized by the King, but when Major Benn and
I took off our hats, he came at once towards me and spoke
most kindly. I was astonished that he recognized me, he
having never seen me before in European dress. In London
I had the honour to pay him homage, but at that time I
was in my Indian costume.
We went on August i8th to see a dance given at Marienbad,
the ladies dancing with their hats on. The room was very
hot, every window being closed and only a small hole left
open to allow fresh air to enter. The Austrian police and
soldiers are very strict indeed in preserving order.
156 TRAVEL PICTURES
I took the waters as usual at the Kreuzbrunnen on August
igth, and later on went to Neubad for my bath as prescribed.
At Marienbad I had a chance of watching a game of football.
The boys who played seemed to have no life or smartness
in them — such a contrast to the energetic English boys !
On August 20th we saw His Majesty the King walking
up and down on the promenade. During the morning we
went for a drive through the Thiergarten and Konigswart
to the Hotel Metternich, which is well situated and com-
mands a beautiful view of the country. Here are springs
and a bath-house, and the manager of the hotel showed us
the spring " Richards Quelle," and told us that the baths
at that place were even stronger than those at Marienbad.
From this spring a great number of bottles are filled and
exported every year to other countries. There was also a
tennis court, and in the evening a band plays from 6 to
7 o'clock. We afterwards learnt that this band, consisting
of fourteen performers who played fairly well, were men all
of different trades, such as shoemakers, tailors, etc. We
thought it greatly to their credit that they should be able
to use so many instruments.
Sunday, August 2ist, was a beautiful day. The sun
shone and the wind was bracing but not too cold, permitting
people to enjoy their walk. We visited the exhibition which
our King had opened for Princess Parlaghy. There were
about twenty-five paintings, every one of them good. The
best portrait was one of the late King of Servia. After
dinner we went to hear an address from the Baroness Suttner.
She had begun at 8 o'clock, and we were a little late. Her
subject was " Fight against War." She spoke in German,
and therefore I could not understand her well, but here and
there I made out something. I was astonished to see that
during the course of the speech no appreciation was shown
by the audience, and at the end only very feeble applause
was given. Then we went to the supper-room, where I sat
next the Baroness. She spoke English very well, and we had
a most interesting conversation. Picture postcards of her
were for sale, so I bought a few and asked her to sign one
of them for me, which she very kindly did, adding this line
MARIENBAD 157
in French : La terre est noire patrie — " The whole earth is
our motherland" (literally "fatherland"). Beneath her
portrait she wrote, " a dumb speaker," but I told her it was
not she who was dumb but that I was a deaf listener, as I
did not know the language she spoke. Her chief theme was
" Humanity," and she preached everywhere the principles of
Union. She was about sixty years old, and yet at this age
could speak for an hour. Her voice, though not very loud,
was so clear that one could hear every word distinctly. This
was the first time I had ever heard a lady speak before an
audience on any subject. It was here, too, that I met a
man who was one of the best piano-players in the world.
We returned again for a short time to the exhibition, and
then walked home through the town, which was prettily lit
up with electric lights.
Major Benn went to the Rubezal Cafe to arrange for a
small dinner party I wished to give there. A large and hand-
some room was placed at our disposal, and it looked charming
when lit up by electricity and incandescent lamps, with beau-
tiful plants placed here and there, and the table decked with
Marechal Niel roses and white carnations. The Princess
Lwoff Parlaghy, the Baroness Suttner and another lady
accepted my invitation, but the last, a Grafin or Countess,
was unable to be present owing to indisposition. The dinner
was well served, and a string band discoursed sweet music.
The Baroness expressed great admiration of all the arrange-
ments. She has travelled in nearly every country, knows
many languages and is really most energetic, devoting all
her time to the furtherance of peace and union. She was
wearing the Nobel Prize for Peace. I had some talk with her
about Brahmanism and other religious dogmas and prin-
ciples. It was quite cold when we left the cafe.
On August 23rd I drank the waters as usual. The morn-
ing was wet and the wind cold, the thermometer only
standing at 48° Fahrenheit. It is quite exceptional to have
it so cold in August, but in this part of the world no one can
be certain of the weather, as one day may be very hot and
the next bitterly cold. During the morning I went for a
drive, and found it not unpleasant though decidedly chilly.
158 TRAVEL PICTURES
The wind was blowing hard, and the pine trees in consequence
were sighing and soughing. I greatly like the aromatic
odour emitted by these trees, which is health-giving as well
as pleasant. They attain a great height, and the least wind
causes them to produce different sounds. At Marienbad we
met Colonel Gore, whose regiment was at Kotah at the time
of the Indian Mutiny.
On the 24th we paid a visit to the monastery of Tepl. It
is about a mile from the town of this name, and took us an
hour and a half to reach. Upon sending in our cards, a monk
came out and showed us everything. The monastery was
founded by some Duke, and so has adopted the coat of arms
belonging to its founder, in which there are three pairs of
deer horns. We were first taken to a building in course of
construction, where, amongst other things, there was to be
found a library designed to hold 70,000 volumes. In the hall
are different allegorical figures, such as Poetry, Music,
Astronomy, and so on. After this the monk took us to the
place where books and manuscripts are kept. Some of these
were very old and valuable, the finer ones being executed on
parchment made from the skins of asses and lambs. From
here we proceeded to the church, which is Roman Catholic
and, as usual in these churches, beautifully decorated. There
were some very good statues and paintings, and the carvings
on metal in high relief were very fine indeed. A room was
shown us reserved especially for a procession which takes
place upon the death of one of the brotherhood. The
spacious dining-room contains a piano and harmonium, so
there is no lack of music. We next went into one of the cells,
which was very small and contained nothing but a bed, some
books and a few actual necessities. The monk who acted as
our guide was fond of music, and showed us a very old violin
he had, but we were horrified to learn that some visitor had
cut away a portion of a parchment page from a manuscript
book of music ; I cannot conceive how people can do such
abominable things. We noticed as we passed along some
scientific instruments and a telescope, as well as a good col-
lection of stuffed birds perched on twigs, whilst in the library
petrified birds, plants and leaves claimed our attention.
MARIENBAD 159
After this we went out into the garden where an artificial
beehive was being made ; it was something like a Chinese
pagoda, small crevices being left by which the bees could
enter. The most curious thing I saw here were certain sorts
of plants growing round the house which gave plenty of honey
to the bees. We walked through the rest of the garden,
where new flower beds and artificial tanks were in course of
preparation. There was a swimming bath and a gymnasium,
also billiard tables for the use of the monks, so they really
have every comfort and luxury one can think of. Roman
Catholics have the same faith in these monks and priests that
Hindus have in Brahmans. They kiss the robes of their holy
men and kneel before them.
At Neubad a maid is attached to every bath-room, and
these servants are very obliging and attentive, keeping the
baths clean and doing everything to add to the comfort of the
patient. There is no one to watch whether they work well
or not, but in Europe when a servant is told to do anything
it is generally thoroughly done. There is also a porter in
attendance to assist visitors in finding their rooms. Every
patient is asked to come at a certain time, and to keep to that
particular hour.
We went to the theatre in the evening. Though the house
is not large for a place like Marienbad, it is fairly spacious
and well built. The scenery was good and the actors sang
extremely well. The performance commenced at 7.30 and
ended between 10 and 10.30, as patients are not allowed to
stay up late at night.
One morning, when walking about on the promenade, we
saw a boy not more than twelve years of age who weighed,
I was told, seventeen to eighteen stone — upwards of 3j
maunds ! He found great difficulty in walking, and I pitied
him very much for having to lead such an uncomfortable life
through no fault of his own. Marienbad may be called a
museum of stout persons, for one saw every variety ; among
them were some people who could not walk at all, being
twenty-five stone in weight, a tiresome life indeed ! By way
of contrast I saw a woman on another occasion who, although
full grown, was so thin that she weighed less than six stone !
160 TRAVEL PICTURES
Dr. Ott often came to see me ; he advised us to be very
careful, as the temperature was so fluctuating. I asked him
whether there was an institute for exercise, and he kindly
gave me his card to serve as an introduction to Dr. Krans,
who was the head of one. I went to fulfil my promise of a
sitting to the Princess Lwoff Parlaghy,but forgot to take my
turban, so Major Benn kindly drove back to the hotel for it.
The Princess is really a wonderful artist, and managed to
catch the very expression of my face in painting my portrait ;
I cannot imagine how she did so. Afterwards we drove to
the institute as it was raining. From this villa a fine view
of Marienbad is obtained, the white houses and dark green
of the trees forming a pleasing contrast. We were kindly
welcomed by Dr. Krans, a gentleman of stout build, but very
well set up, who spoke English with a foreign accent. He
took us into a room so full of machines which it would be
difficult to describe without illustrations. Their various
motions were not only for exercise, but also remedies for
certain ailments, and he showed us a machine for bringing a
particular set of muscles into play. The sciatica machine,
for instance, relieves a man if he uses it for some time ; it is
worked on the lever principle, and can be adjusted to any
degree of resistance by means of a weight attached to the
opposite side, which, as it is moved up or down, increases or
decreases the resistance. There were other machines for
relieving lumbago, and such small ailments as a stiff wrist or
ankle. The most ingenious ones were for massaging the
stomach, hand and back. There were even machines to be
used as substitutes for different exercise, such as riding or
walking up and down. The movements of one were very
wonderful ; it produced short vibrations, said to be good for
the heart. I think the man who invented them is a benefac-
tor of his race ; he lives at Stockholm, in Sweden. Then the
doctor carried us off to see an electric-light bath, the tem-
perature of which could be regulated by means of four or five
sets of electric lights, each of which were lighted separately.
Before leaving we were taken to Dr. Krans's room, where I
signed my name in his book.
Not far from Kreuzbrunnen is another spring called
MARIENBAD 161
Ambrosiusbrunnen, which is good for sciatica ; Dr. Ott
advised Major Benn to drink water from this spring every
day. During the last week of August people begin to leave
Marienbad for the after-cure places, and by the second week
in September hardly any patients are left. The doctors and
larger shop-keepers quit the place for other towns, where
they hope to find goo.d business, and this beautiful place,
which had been so full of life and animation, becomes quite
deserted by the second half of September.
One day, out of curiosity, I visited a barber's shop quite
near the hotel. The chair on which the customer sits is very
convenient, having a small rest attached to the back, which
enables him to place his head comfortably. The room was
beautifully fitted with water pipes and marble basins, and
everything very clean and nice. These European barbers
wet and soap the chin for a long time to make the hair soft.
Their hands slide with such ease and accuracy that one does
not feel the action of the razor at all. They have many kinds
of brushes, used for different purposes, and also a curious
sheet for covering one up when one's hair is being cut. It is
something like our Angarkha, but is worn in a different way,
that is to say it is tied at the back instead of in front. The
shampooing, which I wanted to see very much, is a very
simple affair. After putting some oily substance on the
head, the barber washes with hot water, and then cold water
is sluiced over it. These people are very polite and do a
great deal for the price.
The manager of the Konigswart Hotel took us round it ;
the charges are very low, and any one who can afford to
spend 200 or 300 kronen, say £10 to £12, on his cure, can live
there quite comfortably. It is only two miles from Marien-
bad.
We went as usual to the Promenade, where people were
walking up and down with glasses in their hands and leather
slings round their shoulders. Major Levita was there, too,
and we had a very interesting conversation. His Majesty
was also at the colonnade and, happening to pass near me,
enquired very kindly how I was getting on with my cure,
where I intended to go afterwards, and so on. We went to
162 TRAVEL PICTURES
a glass shop, where I bought a few flower vases ; these are
very choice, and can be made in any design.
At the Rubezal Cafe, where a string band used to play,
there was a man with a drum, who performed on four instru-
ments at the same time. With his feet he played the cym-
bals and the big drum, and with his hands the kettle-drums
and castenets.
August 30th was the last day of my treatment, and so the
Kreuzbrunnen water was the last glass of the season. Major
Levita called and suggested that we should go on to Carlsbad.
We told the hall porter to telephone there for a motor car,
and left the hotel about mid-day for that place. The
scenery as we neared Petschau became very beautiful, a
stream flowing through the centre of the town, in which
plenty of fish are found, whilst on its banks are small villages
in which the glass and porcelain industries are carried on,
particularly fine glass being made in these parts. There is
also a railway line which runs through this hilly country, but
having to pass through many tunnels, the traveller is thrown
into darkness, and every delightful thing disappears from his
sight, so I have come to the conclusion that only motor cars
are suitable for such a trip.
We reached Carlsbad in an hour, and went straight to the
Hotel Pupp, a very fine building surrounded by a small plot
of ground covered with turf with a large fountain in the
centre. Carlsbad is much more extensive than Marienbad,
and there are many pretty walks in the neighbourhood.
After an excellent luncheon we inspected the Sandy and
Osborne Hotels ; both are very good, the former having a
fine dining-room. Major Levita accompanied us to the
Osborne Hotel, where his friend, Mr. Cork, was staying ; the
latter drove with us in our motor car to Kaiser Park, a
beautiful place, where he entertained us to tea and coffee.
His sister and brother also joined us later on. We visited the
Sprudel and other springs, with their colonnades, which are
really very pretty. The Sprudel spring throws up hot water,
the temperature of which is 163° Fahrenheit. The waitresses
use a pole fixed to the glass to procure water from this spring.
In Carlsbad carriages are not allowed to go at a rapid
MARIENBAD 163
pace ; I suppose these restrictions are made because the
streets are so narrow. Near the spring I saw some men
walking about with " Express " perforated on their hats,
which denotes they are messengers, ready to do anything for
a traveller, but they expect something in return.
On the morning of August 3ist Major Benn took me to a
dentist. The chair on which the patient sits is very com-
fortable, and can be raised or lowered at the option of the
operator. I saw many other wonderful things, among them
a brush moved by electricity which could make from 800 to
6,000 revolutions a minute, a detachable drill, also an electric
lamp fixed to the dentist's head, which, when lighted, enables
him to see the inside of the patient's mouth. He showed us
various dental instruments, as well as an electric sterilizer,
until I began to think we should soon be entirely made by
machinery. A good many anaesthetics are employed ; the
dentist poured on my palm a small quantity of ethyl chlo-
ride, which serves that purpose. I was interested, too, in
the way a model of the mouth is taken by means of plaster
softened in hot water.
Dr. Ott came to see me again, and sent in his report as
to the condition he found me in when I first reached Marien-
bad, what benefit I had derived from the cure and the effect
it would leave on me for the future.
My after-cure began from September ist. One day I
happened to go to the telegraph office at Marienbad and
found every window closed and a bad smell pervading the
room. I do not know how anyone can work in such a stuffy
atmosphere. There is a saying which might well be applied
to these people, that they do not open the windows because
they are afraid to foul the air outside ; very considerate
indeed of them !
The Princess Lwoff Parlaghy kindly gave us a farewell
inner. She was most charming in every way, and had made
veritable garden of her room, Chinese lanterns suspended
rom wires stretching from one corner of the room to the
other, making the plants look very beautiful. It was a
delightful evening ; indeed, I never remember having spent
a pleasanter one. It was dark when we went back to our
164 TRAVEL PICTURES
hotel, and the roads were very muddy as it had been raining
for two previous days.
On September 2nd, at 12.30, I went to the Hotel Weimar
to pay my respects to His Majesty the King. On my being
shown into the royal apartment, His Majesty, after shaking
hands with me and asking me to be seated, began by kindly
enquiring how the treatment had gone with me. He then
conversed about my State and other matters concerning
India. At the end 1 thanked him for his kindness in granting
me an audience, and assured him that I and my State would
ever remain loyal to his Empire. The King was in the best
of health, and laughed when he asked me how much weight
I had lost. It was indeed gracious of him to receive me so
kindly. Major Benn and I wore navy blue suits. His
Majesty asked Major Benn whether he was travelling with
me on the Continent, and when he intended to go back to
India. He also enquired whether I was returning to Eng-
land, to which I replied that I might perhaps go there for
a day or two. We went to the station at 2.30, but as a
great number of people were waiting to see the King off,
we remained in a waiting-room. His Majesty reached the
station shortly before a quarter to three, and the train
steamed off a few minutes later.
VIENNA, THE HOFBURG
THE GARDENS, SCHOENBRUNN
CHAPTER XI
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH
WE left beautiful Carlsbad at 3.17 p.m. for Vienna. A few
minutes after starting we came to a spot affording a good
view of Marienbad, especially of the Egerlander Cafe, which,
perched on a hill surrounded by trees, looked very pretty.
Pine woods enclose the railway line, and when seen from the
window of a moving train they seem to spin by. This is
very pleasant to watch for a time, but if one continues doing
so for too long, the eye becomes tired by the rapid succession
of various objects. Glass-making is the chief industry of
this part of the country, and is carried on by the inhabitants
of the towns and villages situated on the banks of a stream,
which grows broader as one gets further from the hills. The
fields are very carefully prepared here for sowing corn, and
the standing crops are weeded much more carefully than they
are in India. I do not know how to explain such matters to
the people of my country, and think it is education alone
which will, in due time, teach them how to obtain a maxi-
mum return from the soil.
We reached Vienna at 9.30 p.m., and after a drive of
twenty minutes arrived at the Imperial Hotel. The city
looked very fine, with magnificent buildings and broad roads,
but one cannot judge of such things by night. Some of the
streets through which we passed were practically empty,
though electric trams were running in all directions. There
was a very fine bath in our hotel, made of coloured tiles ; I
had not seen any other like it. After taking some bread and
milk we started on a tour, commencing with an open known
165
166 TRAVEL PICTURES
as St. Stephen's Square, wherein is situated a cathedral of
the same name, which is 700 years old. The roof is covered
with coloured tiles in different designs, and on one wing the
Austrian coat of arms is worked, whilst a richly-decorated
spire rises to a height of 450 feet. The interior arches are
simply magnificent, and the windows behind the altar
contain stained glass of the fourteenth century. There is a
special gallery for the Emperor, who on certain occasions
walks to this church accompanied by all the archdukes and
princes of his house. The pulpit next claimed our attention :
it is a masterpiece of stone carving and is ascribed to the
architect Ant. Pilgram. There is a chapel attached, called
the Liechtenstein Chapel, in which a prince of that name is
buried. We drove by the Museums, two buildings exactly
similar, and facing each other as in Paris ; then on through
a fine square, from the centre of which rises the Maria
Theresa Monument, erected by the present Emperor in 1880.
We also passed the University buildings, which are attended
in winter by about 6,000 students. Vienna is famous for
medicine and surgery, and people from all parts of the world
come here to study these sciences. Its hospital is the largest
in Europe, and contains 3,000 beds for patients. A beauti-
fully carved monument, which stands in one of the streets,
was erected as a thanksgiving after the cessation of the
plague in Vienna. Then we visited an imposing palace
belonging to Prince John of Liechtenstein, who rules the
smallest state in Europe ; rich tapestries hang on the walls,
and the furniture is very costly. We went over all the rooms,
and in one of them saw a cabinet, presented by the Emperor
Francis I. to the Prince's grandfather ; it is of inlaid work,
and really very beautiful. There were two other cabinets
here, presented by Napoleon to the same sovereign. In
Austria every Emperor has to learn some trade ; the present
monarch is a glove-maker. He is also the possessor of two
theatres, which are his private property, one being the
Hofburg, or Court Theatre. Another point of interest was
the " Votivkirche Church," built by subscription and offered
as a thanksgiving for the present Emperor's escape from
assassination in 1854 ; it was inaugurated by him on the
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 167
occasion of his silver wedding. We also saw the Ring
Theatre, which was burnt down in 1881, when 900 people
lost their lives. The income derived from this building is
allotted to families who lost members by the conflagration.
We then turned our steps to the Treasury, where the crown
jewellery of the Emperor and Empress are kept, and noticed
many people feasting their eyes on them. Carriages were
being taken up and down by a huge lift, and one is shown
which was used by Napoleon I. on the occasion of his corona-
tion. Passing on to the stables we found some fine grey and
bay horses, well groomed and their stalls beautifully kept.
In India there is always a monkey in stables, but here they
prefer cats. Horse-shoes are furnished with big nails which
stick out about an inch, and prevent the horse from slipping
on stones. No doubt in olden times the Indian chiefs were
fond of their horses, but never kept them as well as Austrians
do. There was a large riding school here, with loose earth
scattered over it to soften falls.
On our way to the Palace of Schonbrunn, built by the
Emperor Mathias, we saw the Town Hall, the tower of which
is crowned by a knight who stands with a lance in his hand.
The Palace has a fine garden, surrounded by a wall of trees
30 feet high, cut into arches. After dinner we went to a
variety entertainment at the "Apollo."
The following morning, September 4th, we visited the
Art-History and Natural-History Museums. The former is
a large building, the inside being adorned with various
choice marbles ; the hall is especially lofty and very hand-
some, and its square roof is supported by massive black and
white pillars, the ceiling being by an artist called Wungachi,
and so painted that, although it is flat, it appears to the
spectator's eye like a dome. A broad flight of white marble
steps led us to the picture gallery. Here is a painting of
Jupiter and Juno, in which the former is kissing the latter
among the clouds ; this is really a fine composition. In
another room were the heads of a man and a woman painted
by Albert Diirer. The skin of both faces is life-like, and when
examined through a magnifying glass looked as if real skin
and flesh had been enclosed in the frame, even the fine hairs
i68 TRAVEL PICTURES
being visible. I had never seen any painting so perfect
before, for most oil paintings, when seen too close, seem coarse
and ugly. We walked through all the rooms, and saw
pictures by famous Austrian artists. There were a few
masterpieces by Rubens and by Raphael too.
On our way to the Danube we saw a Palace of the Emperor
in course of construction. We then went to the Rudolf
Bridge, so called after the late Crown Prince, who committed
suicide. The present Emperor is indeed unfortunate ; he
lost his son in this manner ; the Empress was assassinated ;
his brother was killed in Mexico, while a princess of his
family eloped with a man of unsuitable position. The
Danube has a strong current here, and from it a canal runs
through Vienna. Near by is the battlefield of Aspern, where
Archduke Charles defeated Napoleon ; whilst further on is
the place where the latter crossed the Danube. In the after-
noon we took a drive in the Prater, which is like the Bois-de-
Boulogne of Paris ; the main road is four miles long, with
side walks shaded by trees. Alongside there is a course
reserved for riders, the surface of which is soft. On Sunday
London is like a city of the dead, but on the Continent it is
a day of pleasure, everyone being eager to take some kind of
recreation. In the afternoon all conceivable forms of enjoy-
ment are to be had, merry-go-rounds and shooting galleries
being among the various entertainments most patronized by
the people. Nor must I omit to mention the music of which
they are so fond, for at every hundred yards or so a band is
sure to be playing. There are houses built specially for
dancing, the floors of which are beautifully smooth ; people
have to pay a small sum for each dance. We visited a
saloon where men and women were dancing, and I even
saw two men waltzing together. In the Prater we came
across several orchestras composed entirely of women, the
conductor even being a lady. They were all dressed taste-
fully, at one place wearing pink sashes, and at the other
sashes of various hues. In the English Garden there is a
great wheel, like the one in London ; cafes and other places
of amusement, such as theatres and band-stands too, are in
plenty, much the same as those one sees at Earl's Court,
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 169
or in the Crystal Palace, the only difference being that the
People's Palaces of Vienna are inferior to those of London.
Coffee, sweets, wines and beer can be abstracted from
automatic machines by placing a 20 heller piece, worth 2d.,
in the slot. Most of the cabs are open victorias, and the
horses drawing them, though small, are fast trotters. We
timed ours, which went sixty trees' distance in one minute.
Reckoning the distance between two trees at eight yards,
they went 480 yards a minute, which works out at fourteen
miles an hour !
We left Vienna the same evening by Orient Express for
Budapest. As it was night we could not see much of the
country, but a few miles from Budapest I noticed a very
bright glow hanging like a cloud in the sky. I did not know
what it was, but thought that it might be the reflection of
the electric and other lights of the town. As we approached
Budapest the illumination came nearer and nearer, until by
ii p.m. we actually entered it. We took twenty minutes
driving from the station to the Hungaria Hotel, at which
we put up. It is situated on the bank of the Danube, in
the city of Pest, and I was indeed fortunate in having a
balcony to my room, for when I went and stood on it my
eyes fell on Buda on the opposite bank. What with the
electric lights and the reflection from the river, the whole
scene was enchanting, and quite like fairy-land. I do not
remember such a perfect night scene, and consider that any
traveller may well be satisfied who has had the good fortune
to visit Budapest under these circumstances. I shall be
very sorry to leave this beautiful place.
On Monday, September 5th, we visited the Parliament
House, and have seen nothing so grand during our tour.
The House is divided into three parts ; one wing is occupied
by the Commons, or " Representatives," as they are called,
who number 440 ; and the other wing by the Magnates, or
" Lords," of whom there are 360. The seats are well
arranged, but the best feature was a system of ventilation in
the floor, through which fresh air continually comes in from
below. The centre of the building is occupied by a large
dome, two long rooms of which are used by the Lords and
170 TRAVEL PICTURES
Commons for interviews with outsiders. The Hungarians
were thinking of converting the constituents into a Repub-
lican Government after the death of the venerable Francis
Joseph, who is Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary.
From the terrace of the Parliament House a delightful view
of Buda and the river is obtained. To the east stands the
Palace of Justice, also a splendid building. In the hall there
is a statue of Justice, bearing a sword in the right hand and
scales in the left. No one can fail to be delighted with this
building, and the frescoed ceiling painted by a famous
Hungarian artist. We walked through the Palace of Liberty,
and admired the buildings surrounding it, among which were
the Bourse, the National Bank and other well known institu-
tions, all newly and handsomely housed. We entered St.
Stephan's Cathedral, still in course of erection, but to be
opened next year whether fully complete or not. The dome
is large and lofty, and the roof worked in mosaic is well
worth seeing. The roads here are spread with tar ; we saw
specially prepared cakes which are used in their construction.
On our way back to the hotel we passed through the
market place, a large iron structure, roofed with glass, where
everything required for everyday use is to be had. There
were all sorts of vegetables ; plump chilies, much esteemed
by the natives ; an abundance of fruit ; eggs in great
quantities, and stalls filled with every sort of meat ; live
fish, too, were offered for sale, swimming in water. Under-
ground was an engine which supplied fresh air to the market,
and also worked the electric light. Further on we saw more
live fish in large tanks, and also refrigerating rooms where
meat is kept. Six lifts are used to convey these commo-
dities into the market from below.
Dogs are muzzled all over the Continent ; this seems to be
an efficient protection against hydrophobia, which is more
dangerous on the Continent than on an island. The peasant
women wear skirts something like those of Indian females
of their class. Steamers and tramways run every few
minutes to carry passengers from one place to another.
After luncheon we visited Buda on the other side of the
river, crossing by a suspension bridge, for which a small toll
BUDAPEST
COLOSSAL STATUE OF BAVARIA, MUNICH
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 171
has to be paid. A tunnel runs through the hill on which the
fort and palace are situated. Buda is smaller than Pest and
much more ancient. We drove to the citadel by a very steep
road, and on the summit of the hill found a church dedicated
to St. Mathias, which was a mosque during the two hundred
years of subjection to Moslems. A curious story is told of a
statue of the Virgin Mary which we saw later on. When the
Mohammedans were masters of this city, and the Hun-
garians were trying to re-take it, it happened that some
cannon balls struck a wall on which the statue of the Virgin
had been erected, scattering the bricks and causing the
statue to fall. The Mohammedans thought it a miracle, and
allowed the place to be occupied by the Austrians. It was
in this church that the present Emperor was crowned King
of Hungary. We were shown some embroidery made by the
late Empress. We then went on to the Royal Palace, a
beautiful building commanding a fine view of Pest and the
river Danube ; Margareten Insel, or " Island," is also visible
from here. The garden, though small, is very nicely kept
up, and the man in charge said that we might take photo-
graphs, but unfortunately the sun had gone down. The
Emperor comes here for twenty or twenty-five days in each
year. After dinner at the hotel we went downstairs, where
a Hungarian band was playing, and took our coffee at the
restaurant. Such places are crowded until n p.m., after
which it is the custom in Vienna to retire for the night.
I really enjoyed myself very much.
September 6th, on our way to see a grain-lifting appara-
tus, we drove through a market of fresh fruit and vegetables,
where the people were selling every conceivable thing needed
for household consumption, under large open umbrellas.
The vegetables were the best I have seen in Europe, the
tomatoes and potatoes being noticeably fine. We bought
some cobs of Indian corn, which are rarely seen in Europe.
The grain apparatus occupies a large building, seven storeys
high. The weighing machines are so carefully arranged
that when the grain is put into a receptacle it is weighed
automatically, each receptacle holding from 50 to 200 tons.
The means for transporting grain is equally marvellous ; it
172 TRAVEL PICTURES
is borne on endless ribbons from one place to another, back-
wards and forwards. The revolutions of these machines are
automatically registered, and the quantity carried by each
revolution is known, so that the weight transported from a
ship to the storing house, or vice versa, can be ascertained
with the greatest accuracy. When the grain has to be sent
downwards, it travels through pipes by gravity, and is taken
upwards by means of a ribbon armed with projecting scoops
or shovels. The system resembles our Persian irrigating
wheels, or ghavas. There are ten elevators for sending the
grain up to the two hundred and ninety magazines, each
elevator being supplied with twenty-nine pipes, through
which the grain flows from one place to another. It is
stored in very deep cellars, but difficulty in testing it natu-
rally arises when a customer comes to buy. This obstacle
has been surmounted by the invention of a screw, which can
be introduced to any depth when turned in one direction ;
and when reversed will bring samples of the grain up from
that depth to the surface for examination. As we returned
we saw some sliding wooden panels, used for rilling waggons,
carts and ships with sacks of grain. After lunch we left
this magnificent city for Munich, vid Vienna. In the suburbs
we noticed an advertisement consisting of some figures of
men and women cut out of wood and painted with vivid
colours. We passed hundreds of fields of maize throughout
our journey from Budapest to Vienna, and near the railway
line I saw two boys frying bhuttas, or corn cobs, as people do
in India. The line takes a very winding course through a
great grape-growing country ; the fields looked very beauti-
ful with vines climbing over stakes, just as peas are grown
in India and elsewhere. Bullocks are used for tilling the
fields ; these cattle have a slight hump, but not very
noticeable.
We stopped at Banhida Station and observed the colossal
figure of an eagle, probably made of bronze, perched on a
hill near by. In travelling between Budapest and Vienna
I noticed a tin plate painted red and white, with a pole
attached to it, planted in the middle of the railway line near
crossings. When a train is approaching this is removed, and
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 173
when it has passed this is replaced. The officials in charge
live in small houses along the line, and these warn by-
passers when danger may be expected in crossing the line.
Our train stopped for a few minutes at Komorn, where
State prisoners are confined, and passengers rushed out of
the carriages for beer ; nearly every man might be seen on
the platform holding a jug of beer in one hand and a piece
of sausage in the other. The beautiful blue Danube flows
between the station and the town, with which it is connected
by a bridge, another small stream joining it here. In this
river we saw a sort of dredger, used for removing the under-
growth. We reached Vienna at 7.20 p.m., and after chang-
ing stations left again about 8.30 p.m.
In Europe people are very fond of licking their fingers
when they turn pages of a book. I do not know whether
the Mohammedans taught this habit to the Europeans, or
vice versa. It is certainly a bad habit ; in the first place, it
soils the book, and secondly, involves the danger of contract-
ing disease germs. *~
Munich was reached at 6.30 a.m. on September 7th, and
we drove at once to the Bayerischer Hof, the best hotel in
this capital. In olden times the town was surrounded by
walls, some traces of which are still to be seen in the St.
Linger Thor, 800 years old. Our first exploit was to ascend
the colossal statue of Bavaria, by means of a spiral staircase.
In clear weather a fine view is obtained through apertures
in the head. The neck of the statue is very narrow, and one
finds some difficulty in passing through it, but in the head
eight persons can sit or stand comfortably. The ascent was
very fatiguing, as there was no ventilation. Near this
statue is a Hall of Fame containing busts of Bavarian
notabilities. A great number of temporary structures were
in course of erection for the National Fete, which is held here
on the first Sunday in October and lasts for a month. At
a place a little further on we saw the panorama of a battle
between the French and the Germans at Champigny ; Paris
is seen in the background. It was wonderfully life-like.
Next, we drove past the new Town Hall which, when finished,
promises to be a fine building, and the Palace of Justice, the
174 TRAVEL PICTURES
handsome hall of which is adorned with imitation marbles.
The authorities are erecting a new building in place of this,
but to my thinking it will be very ugly, the different colours
not having been properly blended. The Royal Palace
stands at a little distance ; the King, being insane, has not
visited his capital for twelve years. Our next destination
was the Royal Court Brewery, where people were sitting at
tables drinking the very mild beer peculiar to this place.
In the court-yard some of the barrels were being used as
seats. We then crossed the beautiful river Isar, in order to
visit the Picture Gallery and the Wagner Opera House,
where only operas and plays written by Wagner are staged.
Next we saw a noble statue of " Peace/' cast in bronze,
heavily gilded, and with a fountain in front. We drove
through the English Garden, a large park of 600 acres, not
well cared for. In returning we passed under a triumphal
arch, surmounted by a statue of Bavaria, with four lions in
bronze. Just beyond this is an extension building of the
Academy of Fine Arts, surrounded with beautiful grounds.
Here the Ludwigstrasse commences ; it is the principal
street, and here stand all the most important buildings.
First, there is a University for turning out doctors, priests
and philosophers ; then comes the Ludwig Church ; next
the State Library, the house of the Minister of War, a statue
of King Ludwig, to whom Munich owes its beauties, the Royal
Court Church and the Palace, the gardens of which we much
admired. Then passing on we came to an obelisk, put up
in honour of the 30,000 soldiers who fell fighting against the
Russians under Napoleon I. from 1809 to 1813. Turning
into another thoroughfare, we found ourselves in a garden
flanked on three sides by museums of marble and mosaic,
and paintings executed by modern artists ; these are con-
structed after the Greek style.
After luncheon we visited the Galerie Heinemann, a
private collection, but also an emporium of paintings. Some
of them were wonderful, especially one of an old man with a
long beard, of which the very hairs could be counted ; whilst
another was the head of another man who had not shaved for
two days, one could almost see the hair sprouting ! We saw
VIENNA, BUDAPEST AND MUNICH 175
the house of the famous composer Wagner, and further on,
one in which his wife Frau Kosima still resides. Near by
was a large house used for storing ice collected during winter.
The Palace was at this time occupied by a Princess of the
Royal Family ; Napoleon stayed here for a few weeks in
1806. The hall is very spacious, its fresco paintings by
Zimmermann of Munich being particularly well executed.
Here I observed two eagles, and, upon enquiry, I learnt that it
is a custom in Bavaria to keep them, and considered lucky.
The gardens behind the Palace are extremely pretty, some-
what resembling those of Versailles : an extensive view can
be obtained from the windows, in front of which a fountain
plays, rising to a great height. The electric light has not yet
been introduced here. On our way back we stopped at a
cafe, which is situated in a park where herds of the King's
deer are kept. These creatures have splendid antlers, and
are so tame that they come to take food from the visitors'
hands ; they are, of course, very fat. A severe thunder-
storm came on, and it was pouring at 10 o'clock when we
left the hotel. Even when our train started from Munich,
half an hour later, the deluge had not ceased.
In Europe people are far too fond of advertising. I saw
a round tower which was entirely covered with different
advertisements, and, to render them visible, the tower had
been lighted up from within. While at Budapest I noticed
two electric lamps lighted in the day time, though the sun
was shining brightly ! In Europe it is not uncommon to use
artificial light when weather is foggy, but in this case the
lamps were kept lit simply to show that the shop belonged to
an electrician. In one of the picture galleries we observed
a new and excellent arrangement for diffusing electric light
from above.
CHAPTER XII
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND BACK TO ENGLAND
WE arrived at Zurich, in Switzerland, at 6.30 a.m. on Septem-
ber 6th, and, after taking a cup of hot milk, started for a
short drive. This town is very beautifully situated at the
north end of a lake, both banks of which are covered with
villages, vineyards and orchards, whilst in the background
rise the snow-clad Alps. As we left the station we passed
a fountain surmounted by a bronze statue of the founder of
the St. Gothard railway, and also a handsome Town Hall.
It was raining, and the horse in our carriage trotted so slowly
that we could not get very far. In all my life I had never
ridden in a carriage behind such a miserable animal, a great
contrast indeed to the Vienna horses. On the shore of the
lake I noticed a capital shed for the use of tramway passen-
gers, beneath the roof of which they could take shelter from
the rain. Zurich is famous for its up-to-date University and
technical schools. We left it at 8.30, our train travelling
past lakes, across rivers, under tunnels, and amid fields and
orchards ; and at last we reached Lucerne about 10.30 a.m.
This place stands most picturesquely on a beautiful lake of
the same name. We visited the Hofkirche, the two slender
towers of which are 800 years old. It contains some fine
carving, that on the principal altar being well worth seeing.
This altar has also some magnificent figures in relief, and,
although said to be very ancient, they are intact and un-
mutilated. The organ, the largest in Switzerland, has 6,000
pipes, the longest of which measures 32 feet.
We went next to the Glacier Garden, very interesting
176
LUCERNE, A MEDIEVAL GATEWAY
THE JUNGFRAU
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 177
to geologists as representing the force of the remote Ice Age.
Here we saw " pot-holes " of different sizes, and rocks worn
by the action of the ice. Mounting a hill we saw a stone made
to revolve when water was turned on ; it illustrated how the
pot-holes were made during the glacial period. Afterwards
we went through the Museum, and saw an interesting
collection of Alpine animals, and flints and other objects
found in Switzerland from time to time. Close at hand is
the famous " Lion of Lucerne," carved from the living rock,
in memory of the Swiss guards killed in defending King Louis
XVI. of France, who was attacked in the Tuileries by a mob
on August loth, 1792. The dying lion is pierced by a broken
lance, and the expression on its face is most affecting. A
rope railway took us to the top of an eminence known as the
" Gutsch," where we found a cafe standing in wooded
grounds. Hence is afforded a splendid view of the town,
lake and surrounding country. On a fine day the outlook
is very extensive, but one can see little or nothing if it is
foggy or hazy. I bought a panoramic camera here, in order
to take some photographs of this beauteous country. Our
hotel, being situated on the shore of the lake, also commands
a good view.
At 10 o'clock on the morning of September Qth we took
one of the steamboats which ply to and fro on the lake at
frequent intervals. The water was calm, and the scene
which presented itself to our eyes was one of surpassing
magnificence. Upon reaching the landing place at Vitznau
we found an engine with one carriage waiting to convey us
by the mountain railway to the summit of the Rigi, which we
reached shortly after mid-day. Between the two railway
lines is a toothed one, on which a cog-wheel works, the latter
being attached to the under part of the locomotive. It is
this wheel that pulls the whole thing up and down. From
the landing stage to the top of the Rigi there are three
stations at which the train halts for some minutes, giving the
traveller an opportunity to enjoy the ever- widening views.
The train passes through a small tunnel, at the further end
of which a bridge joins two high mountain peaks, whilst
beneath it glides a lovely stream which murmurs sweetly as
M
178 TRAVEL PICTURES
it discharges its pure waters into the lake below. Upon
gaming the summit of the Rigi I took some panoramic
views, but they were unsuccessful on account of the fog.
We left the Rigi at 1.30, reaching Lucerne about 4 p.m.
On our way back we stopped at a few places and managed
to get some pretty glimpses of the country, as the afternoon
was a little clearer than the morning. We saw the villa
where Wagner used to live, and on the bank of the lake a
statue of the " Protector of Fishermen." By a curious
coincidence we came back in the same boat in which we went.
In the evening we went over the Historical Museum. The
first room contained armoury ; here were a number of guns
of the old style, as well as some quite modern ones, such as
Maxims. We saw, too, plans drawn according to the old
Roman method, as well as many fine paintings illustrative
of war and peace, showing how happy the people were,
attending to their work in time of peace, and how, on the
other hand, they left homesteads deserted and desolate
whilst they went to fight ; perchance, to lay down their lives.
These pictures were arranged in a long gallery ; there were
ten of them in all, entitled respectively, " War," and "After
the Battle." In one, the aftermath was terribly realistic,
the field being strewn with dead and wounded, and vultures
flying over them. The best of these paintings, to my mind,
were styled " Peace," " War " and " La Garde a la Mort " ;
also a picture by the Baroness Suttner, who opened the
Museum. This lady devotes all her life to the welfare of
others, and strongly protests against any form of violence.
She had recently delivered an excellent lecture on the Russo-
Japanese War. There was a picture, too, by Henri Dunant,
who introduced the Red Cross Society into the Army. In
another room we found shells and different kinds of armour
for defence. Here there was a plate 12 inches thick, through
which a shot had entered, landing 600 yards beyond it.
Among other interesting things of this description was a
large arch with diagrams showing how, by a late invention, a
projectile could be thrown to a distance of 15 miles, or to a
height of 15,500 feet — that is to say, over Mont Blanc !
There were rockets also which could be discharged at any
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 179
angle, carrying explosive balls attached. This Museum was
founded by a Russian named Bloch, to emphasize the con-
trast between war and peace. After dinner some Italians
sang in our hotel ; they did extremely well, and I greatly
enjoyed their music.
The following day we went for a drive along the banks of
Lake Lucerne. The road passed by several pretty villas, and
at various places there were landing stages for passengers
by steamer. We stopped at one of them in order to see a
boat race, the course being all round the lake. There were
very few entries ; indeed, we saw only four boats start.
We left this beautiful place for Interlaken by the 2.20
train, the railroad winding along the banks of the lake, and
I noticed smaller railways for conveying luggage by trollies
from one place to another. In this part of the country
apples and pears grow as plentifully as mangoes do in India,
and the fields are covered with vines. There is no dust, as
it is always raining here, and the whole ground is composed
of turf. The houses are built chiefly of wood, the outer walls
being covered with small chips of the same, resembling fish-
scales. Cities, towns, villages, palaces, hotels, villas,
churches, houses and cottages are scattered all over the
country ; there is hardly any habitable spot uninhabited.
The Swiss are not addicted to cultivation, their chief indus-
tries consisting of cattle rearing, milk products and bee
keeping ; while skilled artizans are clever at wood carving,
leather working and embroidery. They also rear silk-
worms, and produce raw silk in abundance.
Our train stopped at Giswyl, where it divided into smaller
ones, every three carriages being drawn by an engine on the
same cog-wheel system as is seen on the Rigi railway ; for
from this point we began to ascend a high mountain, and
after crossing two torrents passed through a short tunnel
which brought us out at Lungern. The Briinig Pass, which
is the highest point on this railway, was our next stopping
place, and we took the opportunity of procuring some coffee.
Starting again we began to descend, and at several places
noticed cascades of water falling from the very top of the
mountains. I was surprised to see that the river, through its
i8o TRAVEL PICTURES
entire course, is walled to protect the land alongside its banks.
We passed through many tunnels, under cliffs and over
bridges. At Meiringen our trains were again united. We
glided through the same valley we had seen from the moun-
tain railway, and began running parallel with the river which
discharges its waters into the Lake Brienz. We reached the
latter at 6 p.m., and a minute's walk brought us to the boat,
which soon began to glide over the smooth surface of the
lake, the reflection of the mountains looking exquisite.
After ten minutes we came to a very fine cascade falling from
the mountain in a vast volume of water, which from May till
the end of September is illuminated by Bengal fire ; it is
called the Falls of the Giessbach. The scenery is not
attractive here, as some of the peaks are quite barren, and
there being neither trees nor snow. Interlaken stands at the
end of the lake. Here we were assailed by an army of hotel
porters, some fifty in number ; during the whole of my tour
I had never seen so many at any station or landing place.
They were standing in two rows, and each was intent on
capturing as many passengers as possible. We drove to the
Grand Hotel Victoria — an excellent one. The bathing
arrangements were very good, and there were none of the
unpleasant odours one encounters in Germany and Austria.
The whole sky was covered with thick clouds, and rain
was coming down in torrents on September nth when we
left the hotel at 10 o'clock for the Jungfrau. For such
excursions one wants a fine day, but people whose time is
limited must do the best they can. The carriage was closed,
but we got glimpses now and then of beautiful country. We
began to ascend the mountain, our road following the bank of
the white Lutschine, which was rushing down with a melo-
dious roar. Admiring the varied scenery, we reached Lauter-
brunnen about n o'clock, and in a few minutes' time left by a
cog-wheel railway, the steepest I have ever been on in my
life. Had there been no clouds we should have seen more of
Wengen and the Wengernalp. At Scheidegg we left the
train and went to a hotel, where a room had been reserved
for us. Snow-capped mountain summits were close at hand,
and the scenery was indescribably superb.
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 181
After luncheon we started to climb the Jungfrau by an
electric railway from Scheidegg, reaching the first station,
Gletscher, in ten minutes, and then moving on. Now we
entered a tunnel, but it had openings from which one could
get a glimpse of the country. We stopped for eight minutes
at Rothstock, from which place we saw the valleys far
below. Again we began to creep up, and reached Eismeer,
the highest point to which this car can go. We got out of
our carriages and began to survey the panorama. A series of
gaps, called " windows/' have been cut through in the side
of the mountain, and there are several shops where one can
buy curios and postcards representing this lofty mountain,
whose summit is 13,670 feet above sea level. It was bitterly
cold, and had we not been well equipped we should have
suffered severely. Whilst we were gazing over the country
which stretched at our feet, a thick cloud of mist rose in front
of us, shutting out everything from our view ; we could see
nothing except fog ; when it cleared away the snow began to
fall thickly. The falling snow was not very thick in itself,
but it accumulated on the mountain in drifts, and when the
wind whirled it up, we could see nothing else. It was quite
a novelty to me, and I enjoyed seeing it immensely. Most
people who come to these heights desire a fine day, but if
there had been one I should have missed a new experience.
We made our purchases, wrote a few postcards to my people,
and after a few minutes began to descend. Within the next
two or three years' time this electric railway will be extended
to the very top of the Jungfrau. On returning to the Glet-
scher Station we left our carriages and made a small excur-
sion to a glacier which was about 300 yards off. The name
explains itself, but I should like to give my own impressions
of it. This glacier is an immense mass or, if I may be
allowed to use the term, a sea of ice and snow. At some
places it is more than 500 feet in thickness, and there are
crevices of vast depth, of which mountain-climbers have to
beware. A passage had been cut large enough to allow of
two men abreast, about 50 feet in length, terminating in
a circular room not more than 12 feet in diameter, and
within stood a huge block of ice on which two wax candles
182 TRAVEL PICTURES
were burning, making it look like a sacred temple. At
some places the colours of the snow were beautiful ;
white, green or a pale blue, but always looking pure and
sacred.
Returning to Scheidegg we took coffee on the terrace of
the Bellevue Hotel, and while we were sitting there it grew
finer and the sun came out, giving departing visitors a chance
of taking photographs. The Hotel Faulhorn, lying to the
north of the Bellevue, is the highest inhabited point in
Europe. From Scheidegg we began to descend by another
route, passing on our way Alpligen and Grund, and finally
reaching Grindelwald at 7.40, where we left our train for
carriages which were waiting to take us to the hotel. It was
quite dark, and at some places the road was very steep. We
crossed and recrossed the black Lutschine, which was rushing
with a deafening noise, the darkness and stillness of the night
adding to the solemnity of the scene. The bridges are made
of wood, and at night it is somewhat difficult for a stranger
to ascertain whether they are strong enough, but we had
an excellent guide, and were therefore practically safe. Had
we seen this road by daylight, it would have been better for
us ; as it was, we could only see the silhouettes of trees and
mountains, and when we started for our excursion not a
glimmer of the dawn was visible, nor was the smallest patch
of cloud to be seen in the sky. As we journeyed now the
stars were shining brilliantly, and I began trying to remember
their names, and thought of my Dewan and teacher Dip
Chandji, who used to point them out to me in the evening
at Jhalrapatan.
We reached the hotel at 9.45. The natives of this country
are happy and contented ; they do not meddle in inter-
national politics. They are clean looking, amiable and
cheery, and learn other tongues with the greatest ease. They
have no national language of their own, either French,
German or Italian being spoken, and this, no doubt, makes
them such good linguists. They make excellent servants,
Swiss nurses and governesses being in demand everywhere.
Switzerland is a Republic governed by a parliament ; being
protected by international treaties and their own valour
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 183
from aggression, the people are strongly attached to peace.
They are exceedingly industrious and live very simply,
seldom taking meat, but living chiefly on milk, butter, cheese
and bread. Their cattle are of dun, brown or red colour,
giving excellent milk. Eggs are plentiful, and they grow
vegetables, especially potatoes, in great quantities ; but
wheat and other commodities they procure from abroad.
As Switzerland is very mountainous it is less suited for
farming than stock-raising. Vineyards are common in the
south, and cider is made from apples everywhere. A bottle
of excellent country wine can be bought for one franc. The
Swiss do not indulge much in drinking ; in this respect the
English lower classes are worse offenders. All the best
watches are made in Switzerland, and in the winter a great
deal of wood carving and embroidery work is done. A man
may live here for 50 centimes a day ; I mean to say that this
is the lowest sum for which a person can keep body and soul
together. The working classes are fond of smoking, and
grow tobacco for their own use, but richer folk smoke Havana,
Dutch and Egyptian cigars. Tobacco pipes get larger and
larger as one gets further east. In England the common
workman smokes a very small pipe ; it is more capacious in
France, still larger in Germany, Austria and Hungary ; then
at Constantinople its dimensions increase, and in India one
sees pipes 10 feet in length or more.
The drivers of every country have their own peculiar way
of warning anyone who crosses in front of them. In England
a driver calls out, " Hey ! " in Germany, Austria and Hun-
gary, " Hop ! " in Switzerland he cracks his whip, and in
Spain and Portugal says, " Pist ! "
Mountain climbing is far from easy, and involves all sorts
of privations. A guide is always employed, who not only
knows his way about, but is well versed in the idiosyncrasies
of the Alps, that is to say he can tell by the wind and other
signs when a storm is at hand. Climbers carry a staff,
known as an "Alpenstock," to assist them, are tied together
with a long rope, and wear strong boots through which neither
cold nor wet can penetrate. They climb all day, and in the
evening take rest in a hut especially built for them. Here
184 TRAVEL PICTURES
they will find many comforts, such as tea, wood and even
blankets. Tea is the best drink for all excursions, with
portable forms of food, such as extract of meat, biscuits, etc.
Visitors always leave a little money in the hut for the
benefit of the next comer, together with any provisions or
extra comforts they may have to spare.
Interlaken, which we again reached on September I2th,
is a small place situated between the lakes of Brienz and
Thun, and is particularly suited for those who wish to live
an outdoor life. There are many good hotels and shops, as
well as a beautiful promenade and reading-room. In the
morning, as it was fine, we took photographs of the place.
We left for Berne at 11.30, the train passing through a
succession of tunnels along the bank of Lake Thun. After
an hour's journeying we reached Thun, where our train
stopped for a few minutes. This is a quaint old town, and
I was extremely sorry that I could not spare time to visit it.
There are very few fields of corn to be seen anywhere, but
vegetables are plentiful, even the slopes of the hill being
covered with potatoes and cauliflowers.
At i.io we reached Berne, the capital of Switzerland.
Though a small town, it is strikingly situated on a peninsula
of sandstone rock. On our arrival at the station we left
our baggage at the luggage office, where, for a very trifling
sum, it was placed in safety until required. This is a great
convenience, and more common on the Continent than in
England, not to speak of India. We drove to a terrace
called the Schanzli, from which a very good view of the town
and Alps is to be had. From a handsome bridge, presented
by the English residents to the town, we could see our old
friend the Jungfrau. Berne is divided by the river Aare,
and the old houses look insignificant by the side of the new
buildings springing up everywhere, many of which are from
four to five storeys high. An electric lift works between the
old and new town. The English residents who gave the
bridge to the town bought all the land which lies on the other
side of the river, so now they are the landlords, and if anyone
wants to buy a building site he has to go to them. We went
for a drive in the town, which has an old-world appearance,
BERNE
A STREET SCENE
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 185
retaining more mediaeval features than others in Switzerland.
The streets in the more ancient quarter are lined with arcades,
supported by arches, forming a covered way for foot-
passengers. Beer gardens are to be found all over the town,
and the city coat of arms displays a cask of beer. The bear,
being the heraldic emblem, is frequently met with in Berne ;
the handsome Town Hall has one carved on the front, and
live bears are kept in a large pit. Various objects at Berne
are quaintly painted ; noticeable among them are the water
pumps and fountains, occupying the centre of the streets,
each bearing a different figure. Next we saw a noted clock ;
a crowing cock announces the approaching hour, previous to
which a troop of bears march in procession round a figure
seated in the centre. From this we went on to the Cathedral,
which is adorned in front by finely sculptured figures in high
relief. We visited the bears, kept at the expense of the
State. I do not think the latter suffers heavy expenditure,
as visitors feed, or rather over-feed them.
At 4.30 p.m. we left Berne for Geneva, and, after passing
through very picturesque country, our train stopped for a
few minutes at Freiburg. The tower of its fine Cathedral,
280 feet high, can be seen from the railway for some con-
siderable distance. On this line there are many small
stations, near one of which some sort of fete was going on ;
people were dancing and seemed to be enjoying themselves
greatly. At Oron we noticed an old house with towers,
looking quaint in contrast to the modern railways. Large
oblong bells are hung round the necks of the cows of this
country, smaller ones being used for the goats ; " jodelling,"
too, is constantly heard in these parts. From Chexbres to
Geneva the ground is simply covered with vines. They are
freshly manured every year in order to secure a good crop.
Our train now ran parallel to the lake, and a scene of sur-
passing beauty met our eyes.
We reached Geneva at 6.22 p.m. The following day
(September 13th) we took a drive past the island of Rous-
seau, named after the famous Genevan man of letters. It is
connected with the mainland by a bridge ; and at this place
we saw some white and black swans, the latter being rare in
i86 TRAVEL PICTURES
Europe, though common enough in Australia. From here
we went on to the " Jardin Anglais/' or Promenade du Lac,
in a pavilion of which we saw a relief map of Mont Blanc.
The guide explained everything to us, and pointed out the
road by which Napoleon took his troops across the Alps.
In the centre of this garden is a beautiful fountain, and the
best view of the lake can be obtained from this point. Then
we visited the Russian Church with five gilded domes ; the
pictures here are very good. We found the Cathedral, too,
well worth seeing. On our way to the Arsenal we passed
the jail in which a wretched man, who killed the late Empress
of Austria, is imprisoned ; he is kept 100 feet underground
in the dark ; for in Switzerland there is no capital punish-
ment. Hanging being only a matter of a few seconds, I
think imprisonment for life the severer penalty of the two.
The Arsenal is a large building, and contains a collection of
old armour and weapons, as well as various objects which
belonged to the late Duke Charles of Brunswick, a great but
eccentric benefactor of the town. The Reformer Calvin's
house is close by, and in a neighbouring street we were
pointed out the one occupied by the King of Servia when
he was informed of his succession to the throne of Servia.
The Town Hall stands near the Arsenal ; there are no steps,
but it is entered by an inclined plane, once used by the
Councillors, who were conveyed in litters to and from the
Council Chamber, but now utilized as a carriage road.
Surrounding the Place Neuve are some beautiful buildings,
amongst which are a picture gallery, theatre and music
hall ; whilst in the centre stands a statue of General
Dufours, and in front a large garden in which concerts are
held daily. The vast buildings of the University also face
this garden. We went on to the Victoria Hall, presented to
the town by an Englishman. The house is large and beauti-
fully furnished ; it contains an organ, upon which someone
was playing, and, as I had never heard an organ before,
I was delighted at this opportunity of doing so. The Water
Works are also worth seeing, as the Rhone not only supplies
drinking water to Geneva, but also affords sufficient motive
power for its manufactures. Then we drove to the Bois de
GENEVA, ROUSSEAU S ISLAND
PARIS, THE SEINE
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 187
la Batre, a plateau covered with woods and meadows, from
whence we could see the blue water of the Rhone flowing
side by side with the grey and rather dirty-looking water of
the Aare, before the two intermingle some distance further
down. A fine view of Geneva and its lake was obtained from
this shady place. On our way back to the hotel we visited
a chocolate factory, known as the " Societe Suisse des
Chocolates Croisier," where a woman showed us the whole
process. I had often heard of this great factory, and was
glad to examine its savoury working.
After luncheon we went over the Ariana Museum, situated
in an extensive park, which was built and presented to the
town by a private individual. It fairly represents many
branches of art, and a visitor to Geneva should not miss
seeing it. In the hall are the fine statues of " Sleep " and
" Death " ; some of the paintings, too, are very good, and
there is an excellent collection of coins and antiquities. The
bust of a woman whose face is covered with a veil particu-
larly attracted my attention. A quarter of an hour's drive
brings one to the Chateau Rothschild, a palatial abode
worthy of its millionaire owner, and adorned with gardens
beautifully laid out. The turf is good, and handsome cedar
trees have been planted at four corners of the house. After
leaving this we passed through many orchards and fields,
and, crossing the French frontier, came to Ferney, where
Voltaire resided. His statue stands in front of the Town
Hall. The great attraction is his quondam abode ; but
Ferney is also famous for its pottery.
We left the Grand Hotel de la Paix before 10 o'clock on
the morning of September I4th. The manager was most
courteous, and did his best to make us comfortable. Horses
are in bad condition and go very slowly in Switzerland ; we
found no good ones except in Lucerne.
Our train started for Paris at 10.10 ; there is a difference
of 55 minutes between Swiss and Greenwich, or meridian,
time. After travelling for an hour we reached Bellegarde,
where the French Customs authorities came to search
luggage ; we were fortunately exempted from the examina-
tion, through the recommendation of the British Ambassador
i88 TRAVEL PICTURES
in Paris. We were struck by the contrast between Switzer-
land and France, which, being comparatively flat, is better
suited to agriculture. We saw many fields of hops, from
which beer is made ; in India some cooks use imported hops
for making bread, or double roti.
We reached Paris, the Queen of Cities, at 7.40 p.m. In
the train was an African family who were also journeying
there ; the ladies, though very dark complexioned, were
dressed as Europeans. There was no one to meet us at the
station ; fortunately, however, a man came from the hotel,
but as he had brought no proper vehicle for us, we had to
depart in ordinary carriages without rubber tyres, which
made a terrible rattling on the paved streets of Paris. The
Hotel d'lena, to which the courier conducted us, was quite
comfortable, but at some distance from the station.
On September i5th we visited the Trocadero, built for
the Exhibition of 1878. One wing contains models of old
sculpture in plaster of Paris, which seemed to me just as good
as the originals. Some of them were very remarkable ; one
cannot understand how the people of that remote age could
accomplish such wonderful things with few and primitive
instruments. Near this beautiful building is a small under-
ground aquarium, where various kinds of fish are kept and
bred, being afterwards sent to stock the different rivers in
France. On our way back we saw the house in which Victor
Hugo died, on May 23rd, 1885. Near our hotel stands a
statue of Washington, presented to Paris by the ladies of the
United States. Then we visited the tomb where lies the
body of that superman, Napoleon I. He was not treated
well by his people in the day of his downfall ; but I was glad
to see the French nation had given him a very beautiful
sepulchre, second only to the Taj of Agra. Here we saw a
" Cook's " party with their guide ; they were about twenty
in number, and were all hanging breathlessly on his words,
while he held forth like a priest preaching in church. We
were shown the Military School where Napoleon served as a
corporal, and where, in our own day, the luckless Dreyfus was
deprived of his stripes. Passing the Louvre on the morrow,
we observed a man feeding sparrows and pigeons ; these
PARIS, CHURCH OF ST. GERMAIN, AUXERROIS
THE TUILERIES GARDENS, FEEDING SPARROWS
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 189
had become so fond of him that each knew its name, and
came when he called them. We were much amused watching
him. The bridge of La Concorde was built with stones torn
from the Bastile, an old fortress-prison built in 1364-80, and
destroyed by the infuriated populace in 1789.
In the afternoon we inspected the church of St. Germain,
the oldest religious edifice in Paris, which has a tower dating
from the fifth and restored about the thirteenth century.
The Quartier Latin is a quarter in which students live in
order to attend the University of the Sorbonne, the school
of medicine, etc. We walked through the gardens of the
Luxembourg Palace, which are open to the public, and
much appreciated by them. All sorts of games were going
on, old and young alike enjoying themselves. The gardens
are beautifully laid out, fountains adding considerably to
their charm. The exhibition of pictures and sculptures con-
tained by this Palace next claimed our attention. They are
the works of living artists, and ten years after their designers'
death they are sent to the Louvre. Amongst the pictures
I liked the following best : " Le Sombrage," by Rosa Bon-
heur ; " L'Ave Maria," by Bonin ; " Un Atelier aux
Batignolles," by Fantin Latour ; " Laghouat," by Guil-
laumat ; and " The Cemetery of St. Privat," where 7,000
Germans fell in half an hour during the last war. Then we
went to another room containing pictures in the " Impres-
sionist " style, which passed comprehension.
On September I7th we drove through the poor quarters
of Paris, which are by no means so squalid as the East End
of London. Near by are the so-called "Buttes Chaumont,"
which were laid out by Napoleon III. in 1865 for the poor of
Paris. It is a fine park, and very well kept ; from its diffe-
rent heights a splendid view of the city of Paris is to be
obtained. In India the poor seldom enjoy such treats ; I think
it a grand thing to be able to do something for their happiness.
The names of shops are indeed comical, probably in order
to attract customers. We drove along the Bois de Boulogne
in the evening, and saw monkeys and seals in the Jardin
d'Acclimatation. There were many people sitting about,
some talking and others doing work, such as knitting, etc.
IQO TRAVEL PICTURES
Mr. Skrine, late I.C.S., came to lunch with us ; he
is a very clever man, and I was delighted to make his
acquaintance.
In the evening we went to the Opera to hear " Tann-
hauser " ; both music and scenery were very good. Al-
though I do not quite understand the plot, I cannot see why
some Europeans disapprove of our " Sakuntala," and allege
that impossible things are introduced into it. The same is
the case with many of the old European plays. Personally,
I do not think any ancient play in Europe equals old
" Sakuntala."
On the morning of September i8th we visited the Pan-
theon. This was built by Louis XV. for church services,
but is now given up to the burial of the country's illustrious
dead. It contains some very good paintings, one being of a
saint who was beheaded, and yet walked without his head
for a considerable distance ; but when Voltaire was buried
at this place the Roman Catholics removed this " saint's "
remains to a neighbouring church. It was here that the
famous pendulum experiment was made in 1842. We went
on to a church in which the remains of another saint repose ;
a beautiful building it is, with fine stair-cases. Whilst we
were there a funeral took place. The dead body was placed
in a coffin, and a priest prayed for his soul's repose, in order
to obtain money from the relatives. Near the saint's tomb
a woman was selling charms to the visitors. We bought one,
which was put through a hole in the stone of the tomb before
being given back to us, and on handing it to us the woman
said that it would bring us good luck. This is just like the
beliefs of Hindus and Mohammedans ; they, too, have Gods
or Saints whom they worship, and consider as intermediate
between the divine powers and man. It is shocking to see
such superstitions in an educated country like France.
As the Races at Longchamps were in progress, we decided
to go on there. The course is beautiful, and the turf well
cared for ; there were crowds of people, and everyone seemed
enjoying him or herself thoroughly. The horse " Gouver-
nant," which had run in the Derby, also ran here, but came
in second. Great hopes were entertained of this horse, but
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 191
he had done nothing up to this time. Newspaper sellers
were numerous, each crying in a different way, but no one
unacquainted with the name of the paper could possibly
understand what they said. There were men offering
binoculars for sale, but no " Bookies," such as one sees in
England. If you want to back a special horse, you have to
go to an office belonging to the government, where tickets
are sold for five francs each. In one of the races a certain
horse came in first, so people who had tickets for the second
threw them away ; subsequent investigation showed that
there had been some foul play, and so the horse which ran
second was declared the winner. Thereupon the men who
had thrown away their tickets as useless began hurriedly
picking up the torn pieces. Two or three men came up and
talked with us. French people are undoubtedly very polite ;
in England such cases happen very seldom, for, without an
introduction, no one will speak to a stranger.
I left Paris on September igth a.m. by the " Rapide "
for Dieppe. In its suburbs I noticed some railway carriages
with double storeys ; I have seen nothing like them in any
other part of the world. The country between Paris and
Rouen is rather flat than hilly, and is drained by wide rivers.
As we neared Rouen hills came in sight, and the train had to
pass through a tunnel before reaching the station. The
river Seine here is stately and beautiful, and the neighbour-
ing hills covered with houses ; churches can also be seen
with high, majestic spires. I noticed, too, an excellent plan
for moving railway carriages from one line to another.
I reached Rouen at 10 a.m., and a little over an hour later
found myself at Dieppe, where my old friend Major Gordon
was waiting for me. We drove to his villa, which was
charmingly situated on the sea-coast, and soon after arriving
set out for a walk in the town ; he showed me two old and
beautiful churches, in the Gothic style, in which early
Norman pillars are surmounted by ogival arches. Passing
on, we came to an old water-gate, flanked by quaint towers,
the only remains of the fortifications. Next we visited the
Casino, a fine building, something like a club. One can
become a member by paying a fixed amount, but those who
192 TRAVEL PICTURES
do not buy season tickets have to pay one franc every time
they enter. In the Casino there are reading-rooms, buffets
and a large concert hall. Then Major Gordon took me to
the sea-shore where people were bathing, and I saw some
moveable bathing houses, which are rented at £10 for the
season ; in these one can sit with one's friends and enjoy
the sea breezes. We returned to lunch at my friend's house,
after which Lady Tweeddale and I went for a stroll through
the town, and saw the harbour and fish market, and, after
buying some photographs of Dieppe, returned to the Casino,
where people were playing, or rather gambling, at " petits
chevaux," a miniature horse-race ; there were baccarat
tables here too. I subsequently joined Major Gordon, who
was playing golf. No one who conies to Dieppe should,
under any circumstances, miss seeing these golf links, which
are certainly among the best in the world. The entrance
fee is about one franc. There are only nine holes so far, but
they had been laid out most carefully, and one had to walk
up and down the hills in order to get to them, getting
wonderful views of the sea and of the old Citadel, which still
stands on a beautiful, grass-covered cliff. The golf club are
in treaty for a piece of land lying on the other side of the
high road. We took tea at the golf club, where a few people
were introduced to me, and I walked back with my old
friends to dinner. The time I spent in their company will
ever remain fresh in my memory ; they are such delightful
people, and did everything in their power for my comfort
whilst I was in England.
I left Dieppe at 8.47 p.m., Major Gordon coming with me
to the station, and, when we bade each other good-bye, we
were too much affected to say much. Dieppe is small, but
very prettily situated ; Havre is improving more rapidly,
and competes with Dieppe to the latter's disadvantage.
Water runs in the streets all through the year ; I cannot
think why the authorities allow such a waste. The place
was en fete, owing to the arrival of the Mayor of Brighton,
whose steamer was decorated with flags, and a rocket was
fired just as we started.
I reached Paris at 11.35 p.m., and Major Benn met me at
DIEPPE FROM THE SEA
BRUSSELS. THE BOURSE, OR EXCHANGE
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 193
the station. The following day, September 20th, he and I
left cards at the Ambassador's, who was absent. There we
met Lord Berwick, who is a Military Attache. We came back
to the hotel to change, and went to see the working of the
Petit Journal. We were taken to the Director's room, and
introduced to a Senator who has an interest in this news-
paper. It is not only a publishing concern, anything can be
obtained here ; it is something like the Army and Navy
Stores. In a hall accommodating about 800 persons we
saw a large stage used for theatricals, concerts, speeches and
lectures. Then we passed on to the composing and printing
rooms ; these were really enormous, and there were many
elaborate machines at work, among them being ten printing
presses, each of which could turn out 40,000 copies in an
hour, automatically registering as they did so the number of
revolutions made, and showing by this means how many
copies had been struck off. There was a long canvas lift
working here, which conveyed bales of newspapers to the
upper storeys, from whence they were sent to their respective
destinations. Mounting to the despatching rooms, we found
men and women busily engaged in making up packets for
subscribers. The Director told us that this paper has the
largest circulation of any in the world, there being no other
so widely subscribed to. Then we were taken to the account
rooms, where many clerks were working very hard, and we
were told that there was a night as well as a day staff, and
also that sixty carriages worked continuously day and night
to deliver the paper. We saw rooms where news is received
from all parts of the world ; telephone stations had been
erected here, and the Director asked me whether I cared to
send a message to India, but I declined with many thanks.
In another department every sort of advertisement is printed
in colours by a roller method, all the colours being put on at
one time. This system resembles that for calico-printing.
I had never seen such a great newspaper establishment
before, and there were so many details that only an expert
could treat of the subject fully. Anyone visiting Paris
should certainly try to see the Petit Journal offices. The
Director who kindly took us round was a clever and
194 TRAVEL PICTURES
interesting man, and ably explained every thing which came in
our way. We thanked him at the end of our inspection, and
left the establishment much impressed by all we had seen.
On September 2ist Major Benn and I, with my most
useful attendant, Abdul Ghafur Khan, left Paris by the
" Nord " Station for London, our train reaching Calais at
1.25. The country is fertile and pretty most of the way,
but as one approaches Calais it gets very flat and sandy.
On the road we saw some wind-mills revolving at a great
rate, leading us to fear that the sea would be very rough,
which we found a little laier to be the case. The boat
rolled violently, and at one time I really thought that we
were going down. Major Benn told me afterwards that
what we experienced was nothing compared with how rough
the sea can be at times, but at that moment I felt very
nervous. I kept one eye shut all the time, as I had been
told that this prevented " mal de mer," and it seemed to be
so, as I was not sick at all. Poor Abdul Ghafur did not
share my experience. It was very windy, but the sun was
shining brilliantly when we arrived at Dover, shortly after
four o'clock. The country is charming between this and
London, and the chalk cliffs look perfectly beautiful. Kent is
full of hop fields, the hawthorn hedges which run along the
railway line are kept well clipped and in good order.
Charing Cross was reached at 5.20 p.m., and later on Mr.
and Mrs. Skrine and Mrs. Rew dined with us at Prince's
Restaurant, afterwards accompanying us to the Garrick
Theatre, where " The Chevalier " was being played. The
piece was very funny, and the actors excellent. I enjoy
seeing an amusing play, but do like it to be well acted. Mr.
Arthur Bourchier was, as usual, first rate in his role ; his
wife also sustained her part well, and Miss Nancy Price was
simply splendid. When the play was over, the latter asked
us on to the stage, where she introduced me to Mrs. Bour-
chier, whose stage name is " Violet Vanbrugh." I enjoyed
it all immensely. Mrs. Skrine asked me about Indian plays,
and said that when she was at Calcutta she saw one entitled
the " Battle of Plassy," in which a very clever Indian actor
took the part of " Lord Clive," with marked success. It was
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 195
encouraging to hear such favourable remarks from so good
an actress as Mrs. Skrine.
After a hasty breakfast we left Paddington Station
shortly after 9 a.m. for Oxford. The country is delightful
all the way, but as one draws near Oxford it becomes really
beautiful, and from the station we could see the spires, domes
and towers of this famous University. We put up at the
Clarendon Hotel, and then called on Professor Madan, the
Assistant Librarian of the Bodleian, which is one of the
oldest libraries in Europe, having been established in 1445 ;
it contains 400,000 volumes. I was particularly interested
in the book-cases, to which, in olden times, the books were
chained in order that they might not be stolen. Professor
Madan took us round and showed us, amongst other things,
various manuscripts enclosed in glass cases, one of which
was said to be 1,300 years old ; its leaves were of palm, and
the text was written in some sort of ink still quite legible.
I was also shown a watch of Shelley's, a sample of his hand-
writing and a very tiny short-hand book. The ceiling of
the principal hall is about 300 years old. Then Mr. Parker
took us on to other rooms attached to the Library, where
there were paintings and ancient articles, one which par-
ticularly attracted our attention being a chair made from
the wood of the first ship which went round the world.
After this we proceeded to the Radcliffe Library, a hand-
some rotunda, now forming part of the Bodleian, from the
dome of which a very extensive survey of Oxford can be
obtained. Mr. Parker pointed out all the principal buildings,
chiefly colleges and churches. Our next visit was to Brase-
nose College, the site of which was formerly occupied by an
old institution called Brasenose Hall, which probably derived
its name from an ancient knocker in the form of a brazen
nose. This symbol is still to be seen on the principal gate.
From here we went to Magdalen College, considered to be
the most beautiful in Oxford. In a corner of the quadrangle
is a stone pulpit, from which an open-air sermon used
formerly to be preached on St. John the Baptist's day. We
entered the College Chapel, where there are some sepia paint-
ings on glass. Dr. Routh, who was president for sixty-five
196 TRAVEL PICTURES
years, is also buried here. Christ Church College, the largest
in Oxford, was founded by Cardinal Wolsey in 1524, on the
site of a Nunnery of the eighth century. It has a very large
bell called " Great Tom," which peals a curfew of 101 strokes
every night, and five minutes later college gates are closed
all over Oxford. There is an interesting old English kitchen
here, reached by a stair-case near the door of the hall. We
descended, and saw, among other things, a useful machine
for making sauce, consisting of a mallet which keeps spinning
round in a hollow stone.
After luncheon we drove through the city, and saw the
bridge near which the college state barges are moored, and
from which the undergraduates start to train for the famous
University Boat Race. In the course of the drive we saw
a dozen other colleges and their vast playing grounds,
where all sorts of sports are held. The general appearance
of Oxford is not very imposing, and most of the houses look
older than they really are, as the stone used in building them
is not durable. A great many of them are covered with
Virginia creeper or ivy. At one college we inspected the
students' quarters ; a good-sized sitting room is allotted to
each, but their bedrooms are very small indeed. On our
way to Oxford we bought Banbury cakes, which are sold at
various places on the line, and in passing Slough and Langley
noticed brick fields and kilns, which turn out immense
quantities of building materials. Our old acquaintance Mr.
Sutton's grounds, too, looked very beautiful, being full of
variegated flowers.
We left Oxford at 4.20, and reached London about 6
o'clock. Major Benn's sister and mother and Miss Griffiths
met us for dinner at Prince's Restaurant, after which we
proceeded to the Prince of Wales' Theatre, where we saw the
performance of " Sergeant Brue," which was very well
played, Miss Olive Morrell especially distinguishing herself
by her charming singing.
Scotland Yard, the Central Police Station, is a wonderful
place. Articles left behind in cabs and carriages are sent to
the Lost Property Office here, and, through its agency,
returned to their owners in more cases than not. Goods
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 197
remaining unclaimed after three months are given back to
the persons who deposited them. London might well be
termed a city of chimneys. A " costermonger " is an itinerant
seller of fruit and vegetables to people in London streets.
His wife is nick-named " 'Ariette," and dresses herself in
very gaudy hats, these being usually decorated with a
brilliant blue feather, the combination of colours giving her a
fantastic appearance.
I rose early on the morning of September 23rd to catch
the train for Eastbourne, which I reached at 8.20. I found
Colonel Abbott awaiting me ; we met as I alighted from my
carriage, and were extremely pleased to see each other again.
As Major Benn wished to avoid the chance of undesirable
people sharing my carriage from London, he gave ten shillings
to the guard at Victoria to see me through, so the latter put
a reserved label on my carriage just as the train was about
to leave the platform. Railway guards and men of his class
will do anything for a tip. After taking breakfast at Colonel
Abbott's house we went for a drive to Beachy Head, a
chalk headland rising to a great height, from which we could
see the place where Julius Caesar landed to invade England,
a serpentine road, called " Duke's Drive," leading to the top
of this hill. The water is not deep enough to allow of a
harbour, but there is a signalling station, and at the foot of
a hill a light-house is to be seen, whilst above this stand two
cliffs called the " Devil's Needles." On the hill I saw some
white spots excavated in the chalk, to guide travellers so
that they may not lose their way and fall into the sea. A
strong wind was blowing, and the sea looked magnificent,
its waves rising to a great height. After staying on the cliff
for some time we returned to the town, driving along the
Esplanade, a broad road lined with handsome buildings, in
front of which are smooth, carpet-like gardens, and below
them the roaring sea. At one end of the Esplanade is a
" martello tower " ; these are small forts, each mounting
one gun, and were built as coast defences when the French
threatened to invade England. The pier is a fine wooden
structure, where a band plays daily and theatrical perform-
ances are held during the season. This place has more the
ig8 TRAVEL PICTURES
appearance of a foreign than of an English town, the people
seeming full of gaiety and enjoyment as they promenade up
and down listening to the music, either on the pier or on the
parade — another place where bands play daily. The climate
here is considered very good, and, on this account, a great
many schools are to be found in the neighbourhood. The
Town Hall has a tower 130 feet high, and is a handsome
edifice, but the Public Library is not much to look at. Near
the parade we saw a house in which a life-boat is kept,
which often goes out to help ships and steamers in distress.
I had a delightful talk with my old friends, who were very
good to me in every way, and felt sorry when the time came
to leave them. From Colonel Abbott's house I saw some
students at drill who were all clad in khaki. In India
people do not realize the advantage of physical culture.
I left Eastbourne at 2.26 and reached London about 4.15,
where Major Benn was waiting to meet me. We started in
an electric car for the hotel, but it broke down, the supply of
electricity being exhausted, so we had to take a cab. After
dinner we went to see the " Tempest " at His Majesty's
Theatre, Mr. Tree, who took the part of Caliban, acting
splendidly. The first scene was beautifully staged ; a large
ship was seen to be rolling violently, and great crested waves
washing over the vessel. When the curtain fell the sea was
still rough, and the ship had been completely wrecked. The
other scenes were equally good, a particularly enchanting one
being that in which a cascade was shown in motion.
On the morning of September 24th I went to a phono-
graph shop, where I purchased a small organ with 150
cylinders, giving the latest and most popular songs on the
stage. It was a very changeable day in London ; in
the space of ten hours I watched the sun come out from the
clouds about six times ; saw the weather turn to wet, and
finally fog and mist follow in their turn. Owing to this
uncertainty of the climate, outdoor amusements are greatly
spoilt in England, and its people cannot enjoy them as those
of other nations do.
I have noticed that an Englishman is very strict about
social etiquette, and expects other men who visit his country j
SWITZERLAND, FRANCE AND ENGLAND 199
to observe certain rules to the letter ; but when he himself
is abroad he does not attend to those of other nations, nor
does he care in the least for what foreigners think of him.
On the Continent he is called the " Mad Englishman ! "
During the afternoon I called on Sir Curzon Wyllie, who,
however, was laid up in bed with fever.
Mr. Savage Landor, who was just then writing his book
entitled Across Coveted Lands, very kindly showed me
some of his paintings which had been reproduced in this
work.
CHAPTER XIII
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS
WE left Charing Cross for Brussels at 9 p.m. ; Messrs.
Savage Landor and Kolasker had kindly come to the station
to bid us good-bye. Dover was reached about n o'clock.
Here we found our former boat, the " Pas de Calais," ready
to take us across the Channel. As soon as the train steamed
into the station we rushed for our seats on the steamer, which
a porter had taken for us in the centre of the boat. It was
bitterly cold, and I had to put on an overcoat and a blanket,
as well as a waterproof, which one of the sailors lent me.
It was a fine night, with the full moon shining brilliantly in
a clear sky, and as soon as we left the shores of England we
bade farewell to the mist and fog. The sea was calm, and
now and again we could see the reflection of the moon in the
waves, causing them to look as if full of liquid silver, whilst
ever and anon the light-houses threw out their friendly gleam
for the guidance of the ships crossing these waters. At
about i a.m. we left Calais for Brussels. At this hour
people were taking refreshments in the restaurant ; we found
some hot milk very acceptable.
We reached Brussels at 5 a.m. on September 23rd, and
after a short rest started in a motor-car for the battle-field
of Waterloo. The morning was a little misty, but as the
sun got higher the sky cleared. Passing in front of the
stupendous Palais de Justice, we drove through the Bois de
la Cambre, which surpassed all the public parks we had seen
up to this time. The trees are magnificent, the turf well
kept, and there is a fine lake ; in fact, the whole bois is a
200
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 201
collection of beautiful things. The road leading to it is
made of some new substance containing oil, which neither
creates dust when hot, nor mud when raining ; this is a
splendid idea. Then we entered the Foret de Soignies,
which lines the road as far as the village of Waterloo. Water-
loo is only a small place, but it contains many memorable
things. Our motor stopped in front of the house where the
Duke of Wellington slept after the battle. There are here
to be found a few souvenirs of the Duke, including his bed.
We then visited the Church, which is on the other side of the
road, and is full of tablets put up in memory of British
officers who fell on Sunday, June loth, 1815. A few minutes'
drive brought us to the undulating plain where the fate of
Europe was decided. Near the centre of the British position
there stands the Waterloo Museum, containing innumerable
articles picked up after the battle, such as swords, helmets
and guns.
Our guide, Sergeant Brown, took us to the top of a mound
erected by the Belgians in honour of the victory. There are
226 steps which visitors have to ascend in order to reach the
top, where, on a pedestal, stands a " Belgian Lion," with his
tail between his legs, marking the spot where the Prince of
Orange was wounded. From this eminence a splendid view
of the battlefield and surrounding country is to be had.
Owing to excavations necessary to make this mound, the
battlefield has lost something of its original form, but with
the help of a good guide one can follow the whole course of
events with ease. Sergeant Brown not only knew the history
well, but every inch of the ground, his grandfather having
taken part in the battle. The French Government had
recently erected a monument in honour of the French
soldiers who gave their lives for the great Emperor. Then
we visited the Chateau d'Hougomont which, with its walled
gardens and farm offices attached, still stands exactly as it
was at the time of the battle. Houses may be seen with
holes in their walls, made by the balls and bullets. There
is also a small well which supplied the farm with water, and
into which, at the time of the battle, about 300 corpses were
thrown, with some poor creatures who were still alive. Facing
202 TRAVEL PICTURES
the south are two monuments, erected close to the roadside ;
on the right there is a pillar to the memory of Colonel Gordon,
whilst to the left stands an iron obelisk, in honour of the
Hanoverian victories, bearing an appropriate inscription.
A story is told about a crucifix in the chateau, that while
the battle was raging this caught fire, but when the flames
reached the foot of the cross they were extinguished as if by
a miracle. Some time ago a mischievous tourist deprived
the figure of a leg from below the knee ; I cannot think how
he could do such a barbarous thing. On our way back to
Brussels we re-passed the For£t de Soignies, where there is a
pretty race-course. After luncheon we drove out again to
the Opera, to see the " Pole Nord." It is a beautiful building,
with an open balcony all round, used by the audience when it
is hot. The Boulevard de Senne is one of the principal
streets, and beneath it flows the river of the same name,
most of which has now been roofed in. The Town Hall is
really a glorious Gothic building. We also visited the
Grande Place, the Collegiate Church of Ste. Judule — very
ancient and remarkable for the beauty of the painted glass
in its windows. It was here also that the Chapters of the
Order of the Golden Fleece were held by Philip the Good
and Charles V.
A cart-horse parade was in progress, which we were lucky
enough to see ; I think it was even better managed than that
of London. Every cart entered for the competition was
numbered and, as an attraction to the people, a band played
after every twenty carts had passed ; many of the horses
were very fine. Then we watched two balloons getting ready
for flight, and saw some amusing by-play before one of them
was let loose. In order to ascertain the wind-currents, some
figures representing gnomes were sent up, and advantage
was taken of this circumstance to advertise a certain medi-
cine ; for the balloons bore in bold letters the name of
" Brunita." The King's Palace is not far from the hotel,
but there is nothing remarkable about it. He has recently
bought the Hotel Bellevue, and a plot of ground in front of
it, where trees and turf will be put down. The uniforms of
the soldiers are of bright colours, with plenty of gold lace
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 203
and cord. The Belgians have a good and well ordered
government.
We could not possibly miss seeing the lace manufacture
for which Brussels is so famous, and went to a shop where
it was being made. This lace is so durable that it is handed
down from generation to generation, many old families look-
ing upon it as an heirloom, and refusing to part with it at
any price.
We left for the station just after 7 p.m., and found a train
just starting for Cologne, which we reached at n. The
station is very large, and we had to walk a great distance
before we reached our carriages. We put up at the Hotel
du Nord, which is quite near. We had very comfortable
rooms there. As we were leaving Cologne at 8 a.m., we had
to be up by 6.30 on the morning of September 26th. We
started by visiting the famous Cathedral, which is quite
near, but, as morning service was going on, could not go
over every part of it. Its graceful towers, consisting of four
storeys, are crowned with elegant open work spires, and are
the loftiest in Europe, being over 500 feet in height. In
every country there was a time when people were ready to
spend their last farthing on churches and temples, and this
cathedral is certainly an example of lavish expenditure during
a long course of centuries. The iron bridge which crosses the
Rhine is so broad that it carries a double line of rails, and a
separate roadway for ordinary traffic. We bought some
bottles of Eau-de-Cologne from the best shop. This
ubiquitous scent was originally made here, and many estab-
lishments profess to be in the sole possession of the recipe.
We left Cologne at 8.6 a.m. for Paris. Near Charleroi I
saw a number of coal mines, with quaint looking machines
working the coal. The system of carrying coal from one
place to another is very good. In some of the engines I
noticed especially prepared cakes of fuel, made of compressed
coal-dust, which produce more heat than ordinary coal.
Upon arriving at the French frontier, we had to put our
watches back, as there is a difference of an hour between
Cologne and Paris time. The Customs officers entered our
carriages and wanted to see the hand baggage. They are
204 TRAVEL PICTURES
very suspicious, and keen on looking out for cigars and
cigarettes. They even insisted on seeing our tea-basket,
which was shown to them. On such occasions it is better
to offer a tip and so prevent their raising troublesome
objections.
At 4.30 we reached Paris, where Dr. Ramlal and Thakur
Umrao Singh were awaiting us. The " Huguenots " was on
at the Opera, so we decided to go there after dinner, and
were asked by M. Paul Mueller to share his box. His wife
and niece were also there ; the latter has charming manners,
and was most agreeable in every way. Russian ladies are
especially polite and amiable. In the box I noticed screens,
which can be raised if the occupiers wish, and learnt that
these are put up in order that people who are in mourning,
and cannot appear in public, may enjoy the opera without
being seen. In some parts of Europe great formality is
observed with regard to mourning, and money which often
can be ill afforded has to be spent on it. The following morn-
ing, September 27th, we went to the Customs Office to receive
a parcel, which had been sent to me by Spitz of Marienbad,
but did not get it after all. The French seem to delight in
putting a foreigner to inconvenience, there is so much
formality even about the veriest trifles ; but here, again, a
tip may prove useful. The offices where continental clerks
do their work are very badly ventilated. They sit with all
the windows closed, and do not allow a single breath of fresh
air to enter ; the result is a sort of odour which is peculiar
to Germany and France. The French are undoubtedly very
polite ; they are also fond of scents, but I do not think that,
as a nation, they sufficiently appreciate the advantages of
bathing and fresh air. We left Major Benn at the Embassy
to get a letter for the Customs Department, but the Ambassa-
dor was away, so our friend rejoined us. After lunch we
ascended the Eiffel Tower, where girls were selling all kinds
of rubbish. I bought a toy zither with its music for four
francs. We had a mind to go to Mrs. Wyndham's tea
rooms, but it was too late. She, however, accompanied us
to see Sarah Bernhardt in "La Dame aux Camelias," in
which the heroine dies of consumption.
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 205
Next morning we again visited the Customs Department,
taking with us a letter from the Ambassador, addressed to
the Head of the Department, but after all we got our baggage
from the ordinary Customs Office. There are vehicles for
the use of the telegraph and mail carriers, this arrangement
being intended to economize time. We went on from here
to see the statue of Gaspard de Coligny, a Huguenot leader,
who lived from 1517 to 1572, and was murdered in the
Massacre of St. Bartholomew, when 10,000 people were
slaughtered in Paris and about 50,000 over the rest of
France. The Roman Catholic leaders were the Duke of Guise,
the Queen Mother — Catherine de Medici — and King Charles
IX. Another Huguenot leader, Henry of Navarre, was
preserved, to reign over France seventeen years later as a
Roman Catholic. Near his statue is a bell tower, from which
the signal for the massacre was given, this tower forming
part of the Church of St. Germain L'Auxerrois. Then we
passed through an ancient quarter ; some of the houses here
are hundreds of years old and the streets very narrow.
In the Rue de 1' Hotel de Ville there is a palace, formerly used
by the Kings of France, where glass is now made.
We next went to inspect the Gobelins tapestries, some of
which are very old. The industry, which is still supported
by the Government, is extremely expensive, one square yard
costing about 10,000 francs. The work is very intricate,
and the operatives have to undergo training from their
earliest childhood. The secrets of the industry are reli-
giously kept, and outsiders do not know the system of colour-
ing. The tapestries are not for sale, but sent to foreign
countries as presents. Handsome carpets, also not for sale,
are made here, the processes of manufacture being the same
as those followed in India ; but our beautiful designs and
fineness of texture are not to be had here.
The Pasteur Institute was our next point of interest ; it
has done a great good to the human race, and the professors
are still occupied with various experiments in the hope of
discovering something yet more useful to man. First of all
we were taken to the room of Professor Metchnikoff, who
spoke French only, and so he sent for some one else to show
206 TRAVEL PICTURES
us round. We saw an operating-table on which a monkey
was being trepanned for an operation ; the poor creature
was breathing heavily, and its chest heaving violently ; it
must have been feeling most uncomfortable and unhappy,
but was powerless to get away from the hands of the doctors.
They were injecting some plague-serum into its blood. In
the same room we saw a number of rabbits and guinea-pigs,
which were awaiting their fate ; whilst in yet another were
specimens of the bacilli of various diseases, such as tuber-
culosis, scarlet fever and cholera. A room is reserved for
baby crocodiles, where the temperature is kept up to 33°
Centigrade. Passing on, we came to a department where
hydrophobia patients were treated. They are promptly
inoculated with serum, and in dangerous cases the operation
may be repeated as many as four times during one day. The
needle is generally inserted in the flanks, but the locality is
not very important. If one is bitten in the face, it is more
serious than if in the lower limbs. The time of incubation is
usually two months, but in exceptional cases hydrophobia
symptoms have appeared after two years. Ordinarily the
treatment is continued for two weeks, but if symptoms set
in while the patient is under treatment, his case is hopeless.
Before this Institute existed the mortality from hydrophobia
was 80 per cent., but now it is only i in 300. We proceeded
to the general laboratory where students operate. The
fixing of virus is very interesting indeed. Before coming to
this place I believed that the virus was weakened by inoculat-
ing a series of rabbits, but it turned out to be quite the
reverse, for by each inoculation the virus gets stronger.
When it has reached the required stage of power, the spinal
cord of the animal is taken out and preserved for use, and if
that spinal cord be allowed to get dry, it loses all the poison
in a fortnight's time. When a man or animal is to be made
immune the weakest virus is first injected, and then the
strength of the latter is gradually increased. We also saw
the crypt where the illustrious Pasteur lies. Both this and
the tomb are very beautiful indeed, with its mosaic ceiling
and marble walls. By a curious coincidence it was the
anniversary of Pasteur's death, he having died just nine
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 207
years previously, on this very date — 28th September, 1895.
We were taken to the room where the causes of plague are
investigated, and only then learnt, to our great surprise,
that our kind guide was no other than Professor Haffkine
himself ! It was a great honour and pleasure to see this
distinguished gentleman, who is the greatest authority on
plague. He showed us some mice which had been inoculated
with plague-virus, also the bacilli of plague, taken from a
mouse treated in the same manner. We were shown, too,
the bacilli of protozoa and of infusoria, which are found in
stagnant water. Those of plague resemble those of chicken-
cholera. If the plague- virus be injected into a bird, it will
have no effect, and the same thing is true with respect to
the chicken-cholera bacilli. There are many ways of dis-
tinguishing between these minute creatures, but they are
known only to scientific men. In the Pasteur Institute a
great many horses, dogs and other animals are kept for
purposes of investigation. The suffering entailed on these
poor animals is the worst part of it all.
On the morning of September 2Qth we started in two
motor-cars for Fontainebleau. We passed through the
Place la Bastille, so named from an old state prison, on the
site of which now stands a beautiful statue, and reached
the Fortress of Vincennes, in which Henry V. of England
died, 1422. After traversing beautiful and well-kept roads,
we reached Fontainebleau, and after luncheon visited this
Palace of the Kings of France. Here we saw the finest
tapestries and porcelain yet produced in France ; also a
table which Napoleon I. struck in wrath with his fist as he
signed his abdication in 1814, the ring which he wore making
a mark on it. There are very many interesting things in this
Palace. From the outside it looks comparatively insignifi-
cant, but is magnificent within. The apartments are shown
where Pope Pius VII. was virtually imprisoned by Napoleon ;
the ceilings of which are all different in design and very
beautiful. Interesting, too, was the theatre where Napoleon
III. saw his last performance ; the scenes stand arranged as
they were in his time. The gardens and grounds are charm-
ing, and there are beautiful lakes containing carp of a great
208 TRAVEL PICTURES
age. The President often stays here in the hot weather,
when a set of rooms is allotted to his sole use : the other
royal rooms are unoccupied, and are exhibited to the public.
We left this beautiful place for Paris by another road, which
passes through the glorious Forest of Fontainebleau, passing
on our way a place at one time used by brigands as a harbour
of refuge, but now frequented by fashionable people for
pic-nics. After dinner we went to the Nouveau Cirque,
which was fairly good. Parisians are very fond of giving
peculiar names to their shops ; one we noticed, for instance,
was called " Camilong."
On September 3oth we visited Lieutenant Colonel Bauduin,
who was formerly in the French Army, and who has lately
invented a method by which artificial rain can be produced.
He explained that rain is not made of solid drops of water, as
people in general believe, but of bubbles, hollow in the middle ;
and as a cloud contains plenty of electricity, when this is
extracted, the bubbles break and the rain begins to fall. The
Colonel sends a kite into the clouds by means of a coil, the
latter being supplied with a number of metal stars, which
have 1,000 sharp points, and when they come into contact
with the clouds the electricity contained in them runs to the
earth through that cord, the bubbles break and it begins to
rain. He showed us some experiments ; in a small glass
tube he put some water which was falling in drops, but when
he applied electricity the water came out of the tube in the
shape of spray ; a kite was placed there, and this spray of
water began to descend in the form of rain on a paper sheet
spread on the floor. Next he showed us a marvellous thing.
He put a prism into a gun, and then threw white light on a
glass tube containing a sort of anemometer ; it began to
move, but when the light was sent through the prism and
thrown on the instrument it remained still. He explained
that white light has electricity in it.
Tea is becoming more usual in Paris than formerly.
There are many tea rooms, arranged after the English
fashion ; we went to some which were very nicely kept, and
where delicious scones were handed round with the tea.
English gentlewomen manage many of these tea rooms, and
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 209
we visited one belonging to an English lady whom we knew ;
after taking tea we offered her a tip, for fun, which she
declined with a smile. French people give very small tips
in a tea room. In the evening we went to the Opera
Comique, where "Alceste " was being played. We could
see nothing from the box we had taken, so Major Benn kindly
interviewed the manager, who then gave us the best in the
house. This theatre, though small, is very pretty. The
ceiling of the dome, which was painted by Constant in 1698,
is beautiful ; the proscenium is a fine one, and the play was
well staged. The chief actors were excellent, and played
well throughout.
I had heard so much about mesmerism and hypnotism,
and their use in France for the good of the human race,
that when I was in Paris I was most anxious to see an
institution where, I understood, these wonderful occult powers
were utilized. After luncheon, therefore, I started out for
the Salpdtriere Hospital, which was reorganized by the
famous Dr. Char cot ; Messrs. Charles Gutz wilier and Nicol
Beguin Ballecocq accompanied me, and showed me every-
thing. I was anxious to see an hospital where mesmerism
and hypnotism were actually employed in the treatment of
patients, so I asked these gentlemen about it. They said
that in the time of Dr. Charcot this method of treatment was
tried, but had proved to be a failure, so it was abandoned
altogether. I enquired whether there was any institution in
France where such experiments were conducted, to which they
replied in the negative. The Salpdtriere Hospital is solely
for the use of aged women who have no means of livelihood.
They are kept here in great comfort, being divided into seven
classes, according to their age and infirmity. The food given
to these women is far superior to that provided for their
fellow-sufferers in London. The cooking arrangements are
also excellent. They get soup, vegetables, sauce and bread.
If these people do any work they are paid by the hospital at
the rate of one penny an hour. There are about 5,000 old
people who thus get free food and lodging. A chapel is
attached which has seven altars ; these are for the use of
each separate class of inmates. Dr. Charcot was a great
o
2IO
TRAVEL PICTURES
authority on nervous diseases, and his treatment is still
carried on in the hospital. He also wrote many books on
the subject. The gentlemen who were with me said that
milk only is used as a medicine for nervous diseases, and no
drugs are administered. I was then taken to Dr. Charcot's
Museum, but did not see anything that especially interested
me there. Afterwards, they escorted me to the X-Ray
department, where the official in charge showed me a
number of plates taken with the help of the X-Ray apparatus.
Some of these plates displayed stones in the human bladder
and kidneys ; in others, coins and the like things, which had
been swallowed, were clearly visible in the stomach. He also
showed me plates taken of people who were born deformed
such as with one finger only, or with very small bones in the
hand, and so on. This was all very interesting, and I
regretted that I could not go in the morning to see him work-
ing. We were next taken to the quarters where the insane
are accommodated. There were about 100 of these in all,
some being subject to fits at intervals, and others violently
mad ; the latter are kept in separate chalets, and the former
in rooms. I saw two or three women who were in fits at
the time, they were shouting all sorts of strange things. In
one room were some demented children ; they were tied to
chairs to prevent them falling down on the floor. I noticed
several girls wearing rubber crowns round their heads, and,
upon enquiry, learnt that they were subject to fits, and that
the rubber crowns were intended to protect their heads from
injury when they fell on the ground. This institution is
entirely supported by contributions.
Paris is certainly the centre of queer fashions. One day
I saw a barber shaving a poodle. He practises a veritable
art ; and some of his four-legged customers I saw being
shaved in a wonderful manner. Paris is a town of varieties
in every way, and there were several things which struck me
there. One was that the carriage drivers have hats of
different colours, some wearing white, others black, and some
again black and white. These head-gears indicate the com-
panies owning the carriages. In this city, too, horses are
harnessed in a variety of ways ; one may see three abreast,
BRUSSELS, COLOGNE AND PARIS 211
or even six being driven tandem. The advertising pillars
are also worth noticing. In the day time one can read
advertisements in big letters quite easily ; while at night-
time these pillars are lighted up from inside.
When I was about to leave the hotel, the manager came
to my room and presented me with a very fine bouquet of
beautiful roses. I thanked him for the flowers, and told him
that I had been very comfortable, and should look back with
pleasure on the happy time I had spent there. He asked
Major Benn to give ten francs a day to the coachman, as
these people are remunerated very badly. The same is the
case with other coachmen, who live on pourboires, literally
" tips given for drinking."
We left beautiful Paris at 10.30 p.m. for Milan. We got
a lit-salon instead of wagon-lit, but the latter is quite as
comfortable. In each compartment are three chairs, which
can be converted into beds by pulling them down. There
are many conveniences in these trains, but it would be a
great boon if one or two bath-rooms could be attached to
them, which would make them more comfortable for long
journeys ; there is apparently no demand for anything of
the sort.
CHAPTER XIV
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME
WE reached Modane, which is the frontier of Italy, at
1.30 on the morning of October 2nd. The scenery was
superb, the sun having melted the snow and swelled the
streams into mountain torrents. It took us half an hour
to go through the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The small stone-
roofed houses which we saw from the train were invariably
overtopped by a tower of a village church. The country
is hilly and the slopes vine-covered, whilst the fields
are full of Indian corn or maize, which appears to be the
staple food of the people. They also seem very fond of
vegetables, every house having a vegetable-garden in front
of it.
Turin is situated on an extensive plain rendered fertile
by many canals, and rice is largely cultivated in this part
of the country. The cattle are neither as fat nor large as
those of England and other western countries ; in fact,
they are in poor condition and inclined to have a slight hump.
Our train stopped for a few minutes at Vercelli, where we
noticed a restaurant and a number of Italian ladies seated
outside it with handkerchiefs tied round their heads, enjoying
themselves in the open under the trees.
At 6.30 we reached Milan, the old part of which consists
of narrow and irregular streets. It was quite a new ex-
perience, as up to that time we had seen nothing at all like
this city. The houses are large and lofty, having the appear-
ance of great antiquity. We put up at the Hotel de la
Ville, nicely furnished and very comfortable, my rooms
212
MILAN, THE CATHEDRAL
STREET SCENE
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 213
facing one of the principal streets of the town. Notwith-
standing their narrowness, double tram-lines run through
the streets ; this, I think, should not be allowed. The
London authorities are wise in not permitting steam and
electric trams to run in the crowded parts of the city, for
they are a great hindrance to other traffic. Two great
canals meet in Milan, those from Lakes Como and Maggiore.
The first thing we did here on October 3rd was to visit the
Cathedral, which is simply enchanting and one of the largest
in Europe. The spires and pinnacles are surmounted by
countless figures, and the whole structure is very graceful.
Amongst other things we were shown was a nail mounted
in a star on the altar, which is said to be one of those used
in the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. It was presented by
Queen Eleanor of England to this cathedral in the eleventh
century, she having brought it from Palestine. There are
two very large pulpits made of gold and silver given by the
silversmiths of Milan some two hundred years ago. Three
great windows of stained glass, said to be the largest in the
world, represent the Creation and scenes in the Old and New
Testament. We then descended to a chapel used in winter
when it is too cold in the cathedral. A door leads to the
crypt of Saint Carlo Borromeo, where his embalmed body
lies and is shown to the visitor for a fee of five francs. This
crypt though small is enriched by a ceiling on which the life
of the saint is engraved in bas-relief on solid blocks of silver,
and his body can be seen when the front of the altar is re-
moved. Among the fine pieces of jewellery presented to
the saint by different people is a cross of fine diamonds and
emeralds. There is also a treasury where a number of coins
and miniatures of the saints are kept. The carving is superb
throughout, and from one point in the cathedral nothing
but pillars was to be seen ; this is sometimes called the
" Wilderness of Pillars/'
Every May 3rd the sacred nail is taken down and ex-
hibited to the worshippers by a priest who ascends to it
in a lift drawn up by ropes ; this is the occasion for a great
festival in Milan, and people from distant countries come
for it. There are other altars where I saw a number of women
214 TRAVEL PICTURES
praying on their knees, with hands raised in supplication as
the Hindus do. As these Roman Catholic Christians do hom-
age to pictures of the saints, I think they should not condemn
the like practices among Hindus. At one place we saw the
statue of Saint Bartholomew, who is represented as flayed,
with his skin lying on his shoulders. This statue, executed
by Marco Agrate, a Greek sculptor, is a masterpiece ; the
veins and arteries of the different muscles are clearly seen
and the inner side of the toes hanging on one side look very
realistic. A hole is left in a window by which the sunlight
enters, and when it reaches the end of a particular line
of brass inlaid in the floor, it points to midday. In front
of the cathedral stands a fine equestrian statue of Victor
Emmanuel, the first King of united Italy, and to the right is
an arcade belonging to the Government, with shops on
either side, considered the best in the world. We next
visited the theatre, which is unusually large, being capable
of seating 1,200 people, and every box having a separate
dressing-room. One peculiarity about this house is that
the audience can hear the echo produced by any sound on
the stage while the actors do not. There were thousands
of electric lights, and in the foyer, or promenade, were statues
of recent musicians, such as Verdi and Donizetti, who wrote
120 operas.
After luncheon we visited the Poldi-Pezzoli Museum,
which contains some excellent painting and carving. It
belonged to a private gentleman of that name, and was
bequeathed by him to the town. On our way here we
noticed an ancient colonnade, consisting of sixteen Corin-
thian pillars, known as the " Columns of St. Lawrence " ;
they belonged to the bath of Nero, and were constructed in
his time. Every Italian palace and also the larger houses
have their courtyard-garden ; these, though small, are re-
freshing both to the eye and soul, for the climate, being hotter
than other European countries, calls for plenty of shade
and something to cool the air. The Cathedral of Sant'
Ambrogio next claimed our attention. This was founded
by St. Ambrose in the fourth century on the ruins of a temple
of Bacchus, and contains many curiosities. Amongst them
™ . , ^WfciP'n JF?
MILAN, TRIUMPHAL ARCH
CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 215
is a brazen serpent, which professes to be that which Moses
used to banish pestilence ; but we learn from the Bible
that this was broken in pieces by order of King Hezekiah
in 720 B.C., hence the relic must be a fraud. The decora-
tion of the high altar consists of reliefs on a gold and silver
ground, enriched by enamel and gems, protected by an iron
safe, which is only opened to visitors upon payment of five
francs. The life of Jesus Christ is represented here in beauti-
ful engravings, studded with precious stones. This altar
is believed to have been made in the twelfth century. We
were then conducted to a crypt where 800 martyrs are
buried, passing on from this to a larger one containing the
bodies of several popes, but when Napoleon I. was here he
wisely gave orders that in future no one was to be buried in
the cathedral. The chair on which King Theodosius was
crowned is shown ; this once belonged to St. Ambrose, who
would not allow the King to enter the church until he had
done penance for having killed 30,000 persons in war. After
he had performed it he was admitted to the church and
crowned. The paintings in the ceiling of this great cathe-
dral are very marvellous ; they look like tracery work in
marble. We afterwards descended to the catacombs, which
are viewed by candle light. We then proceeded to the arena,
a large place where sports are held ; in winter it is flooded
with water, and when frozen over people skate there.
Further on we came to a park where stands a magnificent
triumphal arch, and before returning to the hotel visited the
cemetery, which is indeed beautiful.
After dinner we left Milan for Pisa at 8.40, and a couple of
hours later were stopped at a station where a fearful accident
had taken place and two men had just been killed. The
engine was lying upside down amid the debris of carriages
which were smashed to pieces, and there was just room for
our train to pass. I never saw such a sight in my life before.
This accident had taken place only a few minutes before we
entered the station. In our carriage was a lady who was
very angry because the train was so late ; she said that she
had to see the whole of Europe in six months, so could not
afford to be delayed in this way ; but the delay was no one's
2i6 TRAVEL PICTURES
fault, and it was very fortunate for the lady that the engine
had not fallen on our line, otherwise we might have been far
worse sufferers.
The railway tickets which we bought from Messrs. Thomas
Cook & Son in Paris were from there to Pisa through Genoa,
but we left Milan by the train which goes to Pisa through
Parma. Of course we did not know the route, and the station
officials said nothing about them when the tickets were
shown, or when the luggage was registered. After leaving
Milan an inspector who came to examine our tickets found
out what had happened, and announced that ours belonged
to another company, and we could not travel on that line
without buying fresh ones. He referred the matter to his
companion, and in the end it was settled that if we paid 100
francs between these two men they would hushug JiieJELaj^ter;
this was consequently done. ^ corruption exists all over tftsi
world ; it is indeed a curse to the human race. Even in well j
educated nations, which ought to know better,_money is^/
temptation that few can resist. ;Why, indeed, should a man
resist it, when he sees that one who has made money by un-
fair means is quite comfortable and looked up to by society,
whilst an honest man is poor and no one cares anything about
him ? I had always held a very high opinion of Europeans,
but though I still think that there are individuals who might
be called saints, and whom no money can corrupt, I now
know that altruism is not a monopoly of any one country or
nation. Travelling in Italy is in some ways very trouble-
some ; there is so much formality that to one who has
known England it gets quite wearisome. Major Benn had
to sign no less than forty tickets, for every official wants to
know one's name and all sorts of information concerning one.
We reached Pisa at 3 a.m. on October 4th, and after taking
tea we drove to the Cathedral, built in the nth century', the
interior of which is very fine. The central dome is oval, and
there are two staircases running up to the top. The pillars
used in the construction of this cathedral are of the Roman
period, one of them being of red African marble. There are
some good paintings, and a very beautiful carving in which
Adam and Eve are represented. In the centre of the church
PISA, THE LEANING TOWER
NAPLES, A PUBLIC CONVEYANCE
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 217
hangs a chandelier, the swinging of which is said to have first
suggested to Galileo the system of placing pendulums to
regulate the motion of clocks. On the altar there stands a
large cross on which the figure of Christ is engraved ; this is
a fine piece of work.
Ascending to the top of the world-famous Leaning Tower,
which has eight storeys and 294 steps, we obtained a good
view of Pisa and the surrounding country. It is still a moot
point whether this tower was originally built out of the per-
pendicular as a freak of architecture or whether it has
gradually become so owing to defective foundations on one
side. The sea used to wash the walls of Pisa, but it has since
receded, and is still gradually doing so more and more. The
town is situated on the banks of the river Arno, which empties
its waters into the Mediterranean. During our visit some
important citizen had died, and so the bells were being rung
in his honour ; the method of ringing them involves very
hard work.
The Baptistery is very interesting, its most important
feature being a font in the centre, which is twenty feet by
ten, and four feet deep. Formerly it was a custom among
Christians that a man, woman or child, when being baptized,
was fully immersed in the water ; now, when the child's
name is given at baptism, only a few drops of holy water
are sprinkled on its head. The dome produces a very
pleasing echo, and it was a treat to hear a man sing there.
We were told that a singer could be hired at any time for a
few lira (iod.). The pulpit in this baptistery is very richly
carved.
After luncheon we went over the Museum, which has some
very old objects of the Roman period, also excellent paintings,
one of which, by Guido Reni, being especially good. The
Campo Santo, or cemetery, is well worth a visit, for very old
tombs are preserved there. An open square in the middle
of this cemetery is composed of earth brought on fifty-three
ships from Jerusalem, as the people of Pisa took a prominent
part in the Crusades. There are numerous wall paintings
which explain the ideas of the people of those times, such
as the " Triumph of Death," " The Judgment Day " and
218 TRAVEL PICTURES
" Hell." A demon and an angel are fighting over the body
of a priest ; the demon desires to drag his victim to hell, the
angel has determined to take him to paradise. There is also
a University, first mentioned as early as the twelfth century,
where the celebrated Galileo was a professor. In the even-
ing we visited the house in which that learned man was born ;
an inscription recording that he saw the light there on the
i8th February, 1564.
The town of Pisa is small, and the streets very like those
of Milan. In these cities where the streets are narrow,
the curb stones are not raised, for otherwise carriages could
not pass. There is little to see at Pisa except the Leaning
Tower and Baptistery, and I do not know why people go
there in such numbers for the season, as the streets as well
as the people are unclean and the houses very shabby. The
water of the Arno is no cleaner.
We left Pisa at 5.20 for Rome ; we had taken a wagon-lit,
but it was very uncomfortable, as there was no corridor
communicating with the restaurant car ; passengers desiring
refreshments had therefore to wait until the train stopped
at a station. When we went to the restaurant car we left
the door of our carriage open, and upon returning the guard
of the train requested our visiting card, and then asked for
or rather made Major Benn sign a paper to the effect that
we had left the door open !
On the morning of October 5th I found myself in Rome,
the mother of European civilization. After tea we started
out to see the remains of ancient Rome, first driving to
Agrippa's Pantheon by a road which passes the Royal Palace.
It is a circular building with an enormous dome having an
opening in the centre. It was originally a pagan temple,
and this opening was provided to enable an eagle to escape
from it carrying the soul of the dead man who was cremated
there. In one corner lie the remains of Raphael, the world-
known painter ; here is also the magnificent tomb of the
present King's father, who was assassinated near Milan a few
years ago ; near is another in honour of his grandfather,
Victor Emmanuel. From the outside we saw a temple of
Neptune built by Augustus, the first Roman Emperor, about
NAPLES, LAZZARONE WAITING FOR MACARONI
ROME, THE FORUM
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 219
the year 33 B.C. It now serves as the Exchange or Bourse.
Next we saw the Trevi Fountain, built in 1749, though the
water it supplies had been conducted to the city of Rome by
Agrippa from the Campagna, to supply his bath at the
Pantheon. Here also stands the Obelisk of Rameses, which
was brought from Heliopolis in Greece in 17 B.C., the in-
scription on it being in hieroglyphics. Some Holy Stairs,
supposed to come from the house of Pontius Pilate, were
brought to Rome by the Empress Helena, with the remains
of the original cross on which Christ was crucified. The
stairs, twenty-eight in number, are considered very sacred ;
I saw some people mounting them on their knees, at the
same time repeating prayers. According to Roman Catholic
dogma, the souls of men who die unstained by deadly sin
are still not pure enough to enter Heaven and have to remain
in Purgatory for 280 years before proceeding to paradise.
Those who do not wish to prolong their residence in that
under-trial prison can shorten it by ascending these steps
kneeling and repeating prayers. It is said that, when Jesus
Christ descended these same steps after being scourged,
drops of His blood fell on them and made them holy. So
popular is this pilgrimage that the protective oak planks
placed over them have had to be renewed nine times since
1739. Close by is the Church of St. John Lateran, supposed
to be the head and mother of all churches in the world, and so
holy that when a Pope is elected he comes here to be con-
secrated. It contains, among other relics, the heads of
St. Peter and St. Paul, buried in silver caskets, and kept in
a high place supported by four pillars.
No one would of course dream of going to Rome without
seeing the Colosseum, one of the most imposing structures
in the world. It was the scene of the old gladiatorial com-
bats, for in the middle of this building the Romans used to
let loose wild animals which were fought by gladiators.
It consisted of six or seven storeys, and contained seats for
over 80,000 spectators, with 80 doors for them to enter
by. The arena is supported by huge arches and pillars,
every fourth arch containing a staircase for ascent and
descent. Modern civilization does not permit the killing
220 TRAVEL PICTURES
of man, but the plight of animals is hardly better than of
old. The arena was so formed that when a nautical display
was to be held, the wooden floor was removed, whereupon
water rushed in, boats were manned and a naval battle took
place. Nor must Trajan's Column be missed. It is com-
posed of white marble, and beneath it are interred the remains
of the good Emperor Trajan ; his statue in bronze at one
time surmounted it, but was subsequently replaced by that
of St. Peter. The column was built in no A.D. The Colonne
Vendome in Paris is constructed in imitation of Trajan's
Pillar. We drove to the top of the Janiculum Hill, from
whence an admirable panoramic view is obtained of the
city and its suburbs — a grand sight which no visitor should
miss. On this hill is the Fountain Paulina, the water of
which flows through it going to the Tiber, whilst a little
way down stands a bronze statue of Garibaldi. Then we
went on to St. Peter's, the Church of the Vatican. This is
an indescribably magnificent building, the largest in the
world, next to it in size being St. Paul's Cathedral in London.
Beneath the dome rises a canopy borne by four heavy
bronze columns taken from the Pantheon. Two halves of
the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are said to be buried
here, and every year thousands of people visit this cathedral,
the building of which is extremely beautiful and the mosaic
work wonderful. Round the tombs of the two saints 127
lights burn day and night ; these poor lamps only get one
rest of 24 hours in the year, that is to say, they are put out
on Good Friday and lit up again on Saturday. In one of
the stained glass windows is a beautiful figure of a dove,
representing the Holy Spirit entering the church. The
mosaics are very fine, and among them is the Miracle of
St. Peter bringing the widow Tabitha to life, and the Burial
of St. Petrolla and St. Michel ; the best carving, I think,
being one of Pope Clement XIII. by Canova. In a con-
spicuous place on the right-hand side is a bronze statue
of St. Peter, seated in a chair. His right foot is thrust a
little forward, and is almost worn away by the kisses of
devotees. I think this filthy custom should be stopped at
once. All sorts of people kiss the foot, and no one seems to
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 221
realize that this harmless-looking limb may be the cause of
transferring the microbes of different diseases from one
person to another. One of the most striking things I saw
in this church were private confessionals for eleven different
languages, as indicated by the inscription on each box.
When, therefore, a person speaking a particular language
comes to confess, a priest who knows that language hears
his story and gives him absolution.
This city of Rome is truly full of the wonders of olden
times, but as it was formerly in the van of civilization, it
should still take the lead, or at any rate not be behind-hand,
as in some ways it is now. Many streets, for instance, are
very narrow, and the roadways by no means well kept.
The public conveniences, too, are of the very worst type ; I
have not seen such open places in any other European
country. Even in India they are somewhat protected from
the sight of the passer-by, but here there is no attempt at
privacy. I hope the authorities will soon remove this re-
proach from Rome. There is an abundance of water, but
the way in which people drink it is very curious. In Eng-
land, and in other countries, the drinking-fountains are
supplied with tumblers for people to use, but in Rome there
are none. There is a hole in the upper side of the tap of
the water-pipe, and when the aperture through which the
water flows is blocked by the drinker's fingers, the water
shoots out from the upper hole, and the person desiring to
assuage his thirst opens his mouth and takes in the water
as best he can.
On the morning of October 6th we started out again to
see more of the city of Rome. The first thing which met
our eyes was the Tomb of Hadrian, a great building which
served as a fortress during the Papal era. It is now used
as barracks for soldiers, and has a clock of comparatively
modern date. When in St. Peter's on the previous day we
only saw the Vatican from outside, but this morning had the
good fortune to visit the ancient Palace of the Popes in
detail. As our carriages drew up and we stepped out, our
eyes caught sight of the Swiss Guards. They were dressed
in what might be termed an assemblage of colours ; I had
222 TRAVEL PICTURES
never seen so many together in one uniform before. In
India people are very fond of mixing colours, but they are
easily beaten by the Pope's bodyguards. After ascending a
long and magnificent flight of steps we were admitted to the
Sistine Chapel, which is very important, as most of the cere-
monies at which the Pope officiates in person take place in
this chapel, and it is here also that a new Pope is elected.
There is an aperture to which a temporary chimney is at-
tached ; when the election is duly finished the papers of the
voters are burnt, and the smoke escapes outside, where
people are awaiting the result. As soon as they see it they
know that a Pope has been elected, whereupon the senior
Cardinal goes out, and from the balcony announces to the
waiting crowd that Cardinal so-and-so has been elected as
Pope, and that he has taken a new name. The walls of the
chapel are decorated with interesting frescoes by various
Florentine masters. There is one peculiarity in Michael
Angelo's " Last Judgment," which he painted on the ceiling
in 1535. It is this, that Christ figures in the centre without
a beard, and the angels who are summoning the dead from
their graves have no wings. I do not think there is another
picture in the world in which a beardless Christ is depicted.
In this room were oblong glasses through which people look
at the pictures. Without then: help one would have to twist
one's neck in a very fatiguing manner, but these glasses
reflect every phase of Michael Angelo's paintings. From
here we proceeded to the Hall of Constantine, the ceiling of
which is adorned with an allegory depicting the triumph of
Christianity over Paganism. The ceiling is flat, but paint-
ings give it the appearance of a dome. The funeral of
Raphael, by Pietro Vanucci, is also very fine, and the colour-
ing exquisite. I particularly noticed, too, a painting of an
Indian chief endeavouring to put his foot on the cross, whilst
a missionary extends his hand to prevent such desecration.
The different figures in the painting are excellent, but the
rage and the inhumanity depicted are creatures of a morbid
imagination. There are few people who speak favourably
of India and her people.
Many cats are to be seen in Rome ; there is hardly a corner
ROME, THE VATICAN
ST. PETER S
ITALY— TURIN, PISA, ROME 223
where a visitor may not observe half a dozen of them playing,
chasing their prey, or picking up something from the pave-
ments. We drove through a tunnel in course of construc-
tion under one of Rome's seven hills, at one end of which the
masons were working ; it was to be finished in a couple of
months' time. It is made of white tiles fitted with electric
lights, and electric trams were eventually to run through it.
The coachmen in Rome crack their whips, and sometimes
say " Hop " !
After luncheon we visited the Roman Forum, where there
are many vestiges of old temples, houses and monuments,
among the latter being the Arch of Titus, built in 69 A.D.
Ruins remain of the Temple of Castor and Pollux, one of
the most famous temples of the Republic, often used for
meetings of the Senate, and of the Temple of Antonius, built
in 1 60 A.D. Eight granite columns of the Temple of Saturn
still stand. From the very earliest times this was the public
treasury of the Romans, and when generals returned from a
successful campaign they used to deposit here their money
and other loot. On our way to the Forum we passed through
the court-yard of the Town Hall, near which we saw a cage
in which a wolf was confined, keeping alive the tradition that
Rome's founders were suckled by a she-wolf. We then went
on to the Theatre of Marcellus, begun by Julius Caesar and
completed by Augustus, the arches of the outer wall of which
are now employed as workshops. An insignificant round
building, supported by pillars with a roof of tiles, we found
to be the celebrated Temple of Vesta, where holy fire was
kept burning day and night. Then, passing through St.
Paul's gate, we came to the church dedicated to him. Though
it is nothing particular to look at from outside, it was the
best of all the churches we had yet seen. The interior is of
vast dimensions, the transept being supported by columns of
marble, granite and other materials of the costliest descrip-
tion. These columns, numbering about eighty, are very tall,
and the ceiling of the nave is richly adorned. The lapis-
lazuli with which the altars are decorated was presented by
the Tsar of Russia. In the nave and aisles, and above the
transept, are a series of portrait-medallions of all the Popes,
224 TRAVEL PICTURES
in beautiful mosaic work. After this we purchased tickets
admitting us to the Catacombs, and, descending below the
surface, where repairs were going on, we found ourselves
surrounded by the bodies of men and women who had died
thousands of years ago, the roads leading to their subter-
ranean abodes being still in good condition. Martyrs are
buried in graves situated under arches, and two or more
lamps, on branching brackets, illumine these vaults. The
whole is calculated to inspire one with fearsome awe. Every
one who descends there has to carry a lighted candle. A
workman conducted us round, and there were so many
different paths, right and left that I wondered how he
managed to come out again without losing his way. The
Catacombs extend round the city in a circle, the passages
running one above another. On our way back we saw a
small chapel, called Domine, Quo Vadis ? which means,
" Lord, whither art Thou going ? " This is the place where
St. Peter, who was fleeing from a martyr's death, is alleged
to have met Jesus Christ after His Resurrection, and to have
been told by the Master not to leave Rome on account of
persecutions by Nero, as other Christians were also suffering.
Whereupon St. Peter, ashamed of his weakness, returned
and was duly beheaded.
I noticed some women carrying water from the street
pumps to their houses in vessels of copper very similar to
those one sees in India ; in the fields the same agricultural
implements are also used. Italians are more like Indians
in their habits and ways than any other people ; they are
also poorer than other Europeans, often appearing to lack
shoes, and I have seen more cripples and beggars here than
at any other place in Europe. I suppose that there are few
free hospitals and poorhouses, and that destitute persons
have to wander about the streets soliciting alms.
CHAPTER XV
ITALY— NAPLES
WE left Rome for Naples at about 7 o'clock in the evening.
The country is flat, but vines abound. They are planted
in quite a different way to that which I am accustomed to
see, being placed in a straight line, with small aqueducts
near by to supply them with water ; in India this system
might be successfully employed.
We reached Naples at 11.45, and drove at once to the
Bertolini Palace Hotel. We saw a light in the far distance,
on the top of a hill, and Major Benn jokingly said he be-
lieved that was our destination ; this turned out to be the
fact ! The drive from the station was interminably long ;
it always seems so when one has to drive for more than ten
minutes to an hotel after a railway journey of six or seven
hours, especially if it happens to be at night when one
wants rest, and when, owing to darkness, it is impossible to
see much of the place through which one is going. This
hotel is situated on the top of a hill overlooking the Bay
of Naples, and commands a magnificent view of the town.
We went out on our balconies and took a survey of it by
night ; beautiful indeed was the open sea, and it made me
wish that we could remain here a little longer.
The following day, October yth, we drove through the
city of Naples and the public gardens, both rendered very
attractive by their palms and oriental trees. Proceeding
by the seashore we reached the Aquarium, which has a
fine collection of sea-life, and is considered to be the most
interesting of its kind in the world. Here we saw many
P 225
226 TRAVEL PICTURES
curious creatures, such as the ink-fish, sea-horse, sea-scorpion,
electric fish, octopus and coral insect. It is certainly well
worth a visit. Afterwards we passed through the principal
streets, noticing the old gateway and city walls. It is the
custom in Naples for visitors to feed children, as well as
old men and women, on macaroni, so we did the same
thing, but I think this a practice not to be encouraged,
for the Neapolitans are born beggars and very importunate.
Whenever our carriage stopped in front of a macaroni shop,
at least fifty men and boys surrounded it, every one
demanding to be fed. They stood in a line, and the
shopkeeper handed to each a dish containing macaroni and
sugar ; the mendicants pointed to this, and then at once
proceeded to eat it. Major Benn threw a piece of money
to some of these beggars, and about fifty of them fell on
the ground, one above the other, fighting fiercely for it ; we
got away only after much difficulty, and made up our minds
never to repeat the experiment. Beggars are numberless,
nearly every boy who passed our carriage asked for some-
thing. These people generally demand " one penny," hold-
ing up a finger to make the visitor understand what they
want. I detest mendicancy, as it degrades the human
race.
There are as many as 365 churches in Naples, so we re-
quested our guide to take us to the most important ones, as
it was of course impossible to see all. He showed us first
St. Philip's Church, which was originally the Temple of
Jupiter, and two pillars still stand as they were in the time
of the Pagans. Then we went to the Church of San Gennaro
the Recumbent, where the first thing which catches the
eye is the figure of Christ wrapped up in a shroud. Its
sculptor has performed a wonderful feat, for the shape of
the face, hands and legs is seen clearly through a marble
shroud. It dates from 1553. Santa Chiara is a beautiful
church, built of marble, originally erected by Robert the
Wise, whose tomb is shown. A convent is attached to this
church, which communicates with the back of the altar.
It being a very strict Order, no male is allowed to enter,
only nuns live there, and the building is protected by iron
ITALY— NAPLES 227
wire and netting. Even the priest who says prayers for
them does so through a barred and netted window.
The newspaper boys in Naples shout loudly one or two
important items of news from the paper, whereas in London
the headings are printed in large letters on placards. In
Paris I heard boys and men calling the name of the paper
only, whilst in Naples they have to give a summary of news.
Separate boxes are used here for letters, newspapers and
local letters only. The street hawkers are also very nume-
rous. They carry their wares in small carts drawn chiefly
by donkeys, and shout the names of the various things
they have for sale. Public carriages are drawn by horses,
donkeys and mules, having no bits but in their place a curious
arrangement outside, consisting of long nobs, which stick
out on either side of the horse's mouth, to which the reins
are tied. I noticed here, too, an extraordinary combination
of draught animals ; in one cart there were Ahorse, a mule,
a donkey and a bullock, all harnessed together ; and it is
not at all unusual to see four horses harnessed abreast ;
the latter are small, but very fast goers. Italians are very
cruel to their animals ; I have seen as many as ten or twelve
persons in a small cart drawn by one horse or donkey. I
think that the Government should put a stop to such abomi-
nations. The most noteworthy thing I observed in Italy
was a number of public letter-writers, who sat in the streets
with a small table and writing materials ; their business was
to indite letters for the public, receiving in return some
remuneration. This shows that the uneducated are almost
as numerous as writers. I was reminded of the Indian
petition writers, sitting outside a court-house, ready to
swoop down on their prey. An ordinary scene in Naples
may thus be summed up : the streets muddy, bad and all-
pervading odours, adults unkempt, the children filthy, half-
naked and deformed beggars everywhere, dirty shops
decorated with figures of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary and
the Crucifix.
We visited the Museum, which contains a comprehensive
collection of the artistic treasures taken out of the buried
city of Pompeii after excavation. The statues both of the
228 TRAVEL PICTURES
people who actually lived and of mythological figures are
very good indeed. In one room we saw a man making
models of figures in wax for reproduction in bronze, and in
another one was copying the frescoes of Pompeii. Then we
saw the whole system of making bronze statues, after which
I bought a few figures and paintings.
The Bay of Naples is very beautiful, and in the distance
the Island of Capri can be seen ; if I had had time I should
have liked to pay it a visit. On the left is Vesuvius ; in
fine weather one can plainly discern the smoke rising from
its summit. The city of Naples is situated in a circular
line on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea.
Our hotel was on the top of a mountain, and to reach it
a lift was provided which took one minute from the bottom
to the top, the depth of the cylinder being 245 feet. A
small tunnel lighted by electricity had to be crossed before
reaching it. The water-supply is somewhat defective ; it is
a pity the hotel people do not improve this convenience.
On the morning of October 8th we got up a little earlier
than usual, as we intended visiting Pompeii, but we drove
through the city first, and did not leave Naples till about
nine. We were late for the train, but our guide undertook
to tip the guard, and so it waited some time for us. The
railway line runs through flat country, and near Naples we
were actually on the sea. We reached Pompeii Station at a
quarter to ten, and soon afterwards started to see the ruins.
Nearly the whole town has been excavated ; the roads are
in good order and show the marks of the wheels of ancient
carriages. At convenient distances, especially at the corners,
high stepping-stones are placed, reaching from one side of the
road to the other, and intended for the convenience of foot
passengers in wet weather. I noticed that there was very
little space between these stones, showing that the Pompeians
had carriages, but that they were not drawn by fast-going
animals. The temples are beautifully constructed, and look
as though the Pompeians had learnt their style from India,
or vice versd, our temples having much the same architecture
as those of Jupiter, Venus, Saturn and Hercules. There are
two theatres, the larger of which is of very early origin, but
ITALY— NAPLES 229
the smaller one is in better preservation. A peculiarity of
these buildings are doors leading from the stage to the green-
room, this being in accordance with the rules of the ancient
drama. From this we went on to the wonderful baths ; the
hot-air bath has double walls and floors, between which steam
diffused itself. We saw also the pipes of a water conduit
constructed by the architect Font ana in 1592 and still in use,
and our guide pointed out to us a building originally barracks
for gladiators, around which were a number of detached cells
in which they lived when practising for their combats.
The private houses were generally in good condition, and
one in particular, supposed to be the best in the town, was
exceptionally well preserved, and contained some fine fres-
coes and carving in marble. Pompeian houses always had
an open court-yard, in the centre of which a small garden was
laid out ; a fountain was usually to be seen in every superior
house. Then we visited the shops of wine vendors, butchers,
bakers, etc., and at one place some mills used for grinding
corn, noticing, too, arches erected in honour of Nero and other
Roman Emperors. A museum contained articles of less
value, such as lamps, vessels, etc. The statues and such
things remain just as they were when the city was suddenly
overwhelmed by ashes and lava from Vesuvius in 62 A.D.
In the ashes, which were twenty-six feet deep, the dead
bodies of cats, dogs, as well as of human beings, were found.
Their bodies were imprinted on the ashes ; by an ingenious
experiment plaster of Paris was poured in, and the exact
figure was presented as if it were moulded.
After taking luncheon at the hotel we left Pompeii for
Vesuvius. The flies were numberless, and we could not sit
inside, but had to come out in the open air. Our carriage
had three horses, and an old man to drive us ; I have never
occupied such a bad carriage or sat behind such wretched
steeds. We passed a village of the name of Torre Annunziato,
where macaroni is made and exported to all parts of the
world, poles being put up in the streets on which it is hung
to dry. This is the staple food of the Italians, and they
might well be imitated by other countries. As we neared
Pugliano, the first electric tram station, a band of ten or
230 TRAVEL PICTURES
twelve people met us and followed us with music ; these
were joined by some boys who were partly attracted by the
sound and partly by the hope of obtaining some money from
us, so our following became very large. It was such an
amusing scene that I shall hardly ever forget it. The driver
was grinning, the boys shouting and the bandsmen playing
lustily. Driving thus, like royalty, we reached Pugliano,
and as the car was ready we lost no time in ascending the
mountain. When nearing the second station, Eremo, we
saw accumulation of lava, which Vesuvius had been pouring
out during the past centuries. In 1872 there was an eruption
which sent a great stream over the whole place, and every-
thing which lay beneath it, even the stones, was burnt to a
cinder. After staying a few seconds at Eremo we started
again. From this place a cog- wheeled carriage was attached
to our car, which took us to the funicular railway station, but
owing to the last eruption, which had taken place in Septem-
ber and had demolished the upper station, the line was not
in working order. From this point we had to take chairs,
and began slowly to ascend. The chairs, just like ordinary
ones, have two poles attached, between which a rope is
slung ; the latter is then supported on the shoulders of a
man, two others holding the ends. It thus takes three men
to carry a chair, and at every 100 yards or so the occupier
has to walk up a few yards in order to give rest to the bearers,
for the ascent is very steep, and these poor people have to
work hard in order to earn their livelihood. By alternately
walking and being carried, we at last reached the upper
funicular station, which we found greatly damaged, the
noble Vesuvius having thrown so many heavy stones that
everything in the station had been broken in pieces, and two
or three months would be required to put it in working order
again. Meanwhile Messrs. Cook & Son had, of course,
raised their tariff.
The weather was so changeable that we had little chance
of seeing the surrounding country. We endeavoured to
pursue our way towards the crater, but a mist came on and
it rained so violently that we had to give up the idea. We
were only a few hundred feet from it, and another fifteen
ITALY— NAPLES 231
minutes' hard work would have taken us to the summit, but
Major Benn, who had made the ascent before, told us that it
was useless to go on, as one could not see anything except
smoke, which conies out in big volumes. So Umrao Singh and
I returned, and waited at the upper funicular station for Dr.
Ramlal, who very boldly executed the difficult task of going
to the very top of Vesuvius. There are very few, if any,
Indian doctors who would have followed his example. But
what a sight he was when he returned from his expedition !
The wind was blowing very hard, and he had lost his hat, and
so had to come back without it. In descending a mountain
one has to sit facing backwards. It was about 5.30 when we
reached the funicular station from whence we had started,
and we found our boots full of cinder dust and small stones.
Umrao Singh and Major Benn accomplished both the ascent
and descent admirably. I cannot say that we enjoyed the
trip ; it was far from pleasant, the weather being bad and
the mountain very steep. Despite an attack of sciatica
Major Benn ran up like a goat ! When we reached Pugliano
we found our carriages waiting for us, and returned to
the hotel, which we reached about 8 o'clock in the even-
ing, tired out with our excursion. A heavy gale raged all
night, and the sea was very rough ; hard luck for ships on
the sea !
On October 8th we visited the Royal Palace, a fine build-
ing, designed by the Roman architect Fontana in 1600. The
stables are on the ground floor, where the state carriages are
also kept. When the King comes here he brings both car-
riages and horses with him. The terrace is indescribably
beautiful, and a fine view of the harbour and arsenal is ob-
tained from it. A small garden is laid out here, with lovely
creepers and lemon trees. A handsome square faces the
palace, in the centre of which a fountain throws up water to
a great height.
We left Naples at 3.30 p.m. The country is flat in some
parts, and hilly in others. At Cancello Station I noticed
travellers in a great hurry running and shouting to get places
in our train, which I suppose was late, as Italian railway
officials are very unpunctual, thinking nothing of being half
232 TRAVEL PICTURES
an hour behind time. The value of time decreases as one
proceeds further East ; in England it is thought as valuable
as money, if not more so, but this is not the case in the East.
We returned to Rome at 8.40, when we had dinner in the
restaurant, which was magnificently furnished. Chianti wine
is drunk in Italy just as beer is partaken of in Germany.
At ii o'clock on the night of October gth we left Rome for
Venice. The following morning, when we got up, we found
ourselves in a very picturesque country. There were many
high mountains covered with snow, and rivers were pouring
down volumes of muddy water, for it had been raining ever
since we left Naples. The worst thing about these trains is
that you can never get a bath ; if one could only be attached,
as restaurant cars are, it would remove a great many diffi-
culties and render journeys far more comfortable. I think
the P. & 0. and the Orient Express should add this one
blessing to the comforts which one gets when travelling by
their wonderful trains.
We reached Mestra at 2.45, where we had to change for
Venice, proceeding thence on a raised road over a series of
bridges with water on either side, and arriving at Venice
about 3 p.m. At the station we found a gondola awaiting
us, which took us to the Grand Hotel, where we changed and
bathed after our long, weary journey. The gondolas are
long wooden boats, with a small low-roofed cabin, accom-
modating four persons, and are generally painted black, in
accordance with a law passed in the fifteenth century. Before
that time people had begun to spend enormous sums of
money on gondolas, even using costly jewels and precious
stones ; this lavishness was considered injurious to the
State, and the Government ordered that all gondolas should
be painted black, so as to give little or no chance of extrava-
gance. To an unaccustomed eye they look very sombre, as
if the people were in mourning. These boats are shaped just
like a common canoe, except that the two ends are a little
raised and covered in with wood on the upper side. Their
length is from twenty-five to thirty feet, and they are six feet
broad in the middle and towards the ends, where the sides
meet. There is no rudder to steer with, but a man with a
VENICE, ST MARK S
THE DOGE S PALACE
ITALY— NAPLES 233
long oar does everything. The prow is furnished with a
wooden shaft two feet in height, with six or seven small sticks
placed horizontally at right angles. These gondolas require
only one or two men to navigate them. There are no car-
riages or horses in Venice, gondolas taking their place, and
every kind of business being carried on by them. Our
hotel was situated on the Grand Canal, which may be called
the principal street of Venice.
In the evening we went round the city in a gondola, getting
out at the Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark's Square, where
stood the Church of San Salvatore, the Clock Tower, the
Doge's Palace, and the old Mint, which now contains St.
Mark's Library. Then we made a complete tour, passing
under various bridges and through many canals, before
returning to the hotel. Whilst at dinner we heard some men
singing to an accompaniment of stringed musical instruments,
and were told that they were outside the hotel in a gondola.
The Italians are really born musicians. Every evening
parties go round to sing outside the various hotels and places
frequented by travellers. From our room we enjoyed their
music greatly. The few motor-boats to be seen here are
private ones, but there is a regular service of steamboats
which run every ten minutes on the Grand Canal ; this is a
great comfort, and enables people to get from one place to
another with little expense and trouble. In front of every
house are wooden posts, to which gondolas are tied ; these
were formerly the distinguishing marks of the palaces of the
nobles, and even now are often painted with the heraldic
colours of their owners.
Next morning we visited the Palace of the " Doge," or
Chief Magistrate, of the old Venetian Republic, who was
elected for life. In the court-yard there are two wells with
bronze mouths, used for storing rainwater for drinking pur-
poses, as all the canals which intersect Venice contain salt,
being connected with the sea. The flight of steps, or " Grand
Staircase " as it is called, by which the palace is entered, is
very artistic, and at its head stand two figures of Mars and
Neptune. The remains of the lofty Campanile Tower, which
fell down a few years ago, are kept there, as the authorities
234
TRAVEL PICTURES
are having a new one erected, on which the original orna-
mental carvings will be replaced. The guide showed us
letter boxes used by the people of the eleventh century, and
termed the " Lions' Mouths." There was a separate box
for each sort of complaint. If one wished to say anything
against the Government, religion, and so on, a special box
was provided for the purpose, and the Doge used to open
only those which contained letters addressed to himself.
The writer was not supposed to sign his name. Very little
importance is attached nowadays to anonymous corre-
spondence, though there are still some persons who are
intimidated by it. In the Anticollegio there is a beautiful
painting in which gondolas of different colours are depicted.
We next visited the " Room of the Ten," where as many
judges used to sit and try culprits. Moving on, we came to
the Appellate Court, where three members heard appeals
against the Ten. This was the highest Court, and when
the punishment was confirmed by it, its decision was
considered as final. Two of its members were elected
from among the Ten, one being an outsider. The two
used to dress in black, and their faces were veiled
in order that they might not be known to each other,
and pure justice be done. The floor of this room is
of an intricate design ; people come from all parts of
the world to copy it in glass, china, mosaic or wood.
Our guide next conducted us to the Council House, where
four members used to sit. In this room we saw one of the
largest paintings in the world ; it had been taken out to be
repaired, and stood in the middle of the room. It con-
tained many figures, yet each one was faithfully depicted.
Here also are portraits of twenty-eight Doges in succession,
and among them is one of Mariano Faliero, who, wishing to
become king, concocted a conspiracy against the Republic.
His design becoming known, he was imprisoned, and finally
beheaded on the I7th April, 1355. Over his portrait a black
cloth is painted, indicating that his portrait was not thought
worthy to be with those of other Doges who loyally served
the state. There is a great picture by Tintoretto in this
room, whilst in the Voting Chamber we saw one by Palma
VENICE, THE BRIDGE OF SIGHS
OUR GONDOLA
ITALY— NAPLES 235
Giovane of the " Last Judgment/' As a joke this painter
portrayed his wife in all three places — Paradise, Hell and
Purgatory, for he did not know exactly where to put her !
This was a clever compromise. We went into the balcony
from which the Doge used to proclaim his election ; it was
at the head of the Grand Staircase, where Mars and Neptune
stand, that he used to be crowned for life. In the Room of
Seals we found a map of the world painted on parchment
by Fra Marco in 1549. Taking into consideration the diffi-
culties they had at that time, the map is certainly very
good ; and the priest did not forget to include India in it.
I was surprised to see that the caps worn by the Doges
were just like the Khagdar which are still used in Haraoti
by old-fashioned people. I am unprepared to say whether
India took it from Venice, or the reverse. Then we walked
over the " Bridge of Sighs." It stands between the Jail
and the Doge's Palace ; the latter is now more of a museum
than anything else, but the jail is still in use ; there are two
different corridors for common and for political criminals
respectively, as these were not allowed to mix with the
others ; even when they were taken to the Court of Justice
they went by separate passages. We went through some of
the dungeons in the Doge's Palace which are not now used ;
they were square rooms without any light, and with only a
hole near the door through which food was handed in to
the prisoners. We saw one in which Lord Byron spent
three nights in order to experience the gloom of a dungeon.
Although one cannot conceive the real feelings excited when
one goes there for only a short period, it is not difficult to
imagine the despair of a man who has been condemned for
life to be a prisoner there, or awaits execution. In these
dungeons the same difference was made between political
offenders and common criminals, the latter having a wooden
bed and the inside of his room being lined with wood, whilst
the others were devoid of any comfortable furniture.
After lunch we went out for a row in a gondola. We
started from the Grand Canal, and, passing under an iron
bridge of one span, reached the showrooms of Salviati &
Co. This firm is one of the best in Venice for glass work,
236 TRAVEL PICTURES
and has a very extensive business. The manager went
round with us and showed us a really wonderful collection
of glassware of every description. We saw some beautiful
china articles too ; wood carving is also done here. In one
room was a complete suite of bed, chairs, sofas, etc., all
made of glass, and in another, some bronze figures. Most
interesting, too, was the mosaic work, some of the pictures
being to my mind better then paintings. The figures and
scenery are painted first ; then a drawing is made, on which
small bits of glass of different colours are put together by
means of paste ; and when the article is ready, cement is
poured on it. The cemented side is then applied to the
wall or ceiling, and when it is washed the paper with the
drawing vanishes and the fine mosaic work comes out. Re-
entering our gondolas we rowed past the Rialto Bridge,
rendered world-famous by Shakespeare's " Merchant of
Venice/' and went to St. Mark's Square, where we had
coffee, following this up with a look at the shops, which are
splendid.
After dinner we went to the Teatro Malibran, where the
opera " Ali Baba " was being performed in Italian. I never
enjoyed a theatre for such a small sum of money in my life ;
we paid only five francs for a box which held four persons,
plus a 2.50 franc admission-fee. On the Continent the latter
fee is invariably demanded, but the practice is quite unknown
in England. The building is large enough to seat about
2,000 people, and the scenery was very fair though not quite
first-class. The principal actors sang very well indeed, and
when the scenery was changed every lamp was extinguished,
and in an incredibly short time the whole setting was altered ;
I was really much pleased with the whole show. I noticed,
though, that the story had few features in common with
the Arabian Nights ; it had been cooked up to suit the
Italian taste. The plot ran as follows : When Kasim
entered the robbers' cave he could not get out again, and
the robbers came and caught him red-handed. Instead of
killing him, they handed him over to one of their number,
and elicited all the information from him they could against
Ali Baba. Two brigands disguised themselves as clerks and
VENICE, THE RIALTO
A WEDDING PARTY
ITALY— NAPLES 237
obtained employment from All Baba as his secretaries ;
then the other robbers came to kill him. A war-dance
followed, in which a woman dancer also wanted to kill Ali
Baba, but at that moment Morgiana came forward and saved
his life, and then the police appeared on the scene and caught
the robbers. Kasim's wife (who was under the impression
that her husband was dead) was delighted to find him alive
again. When Kasim did not return from the cave, Ali Baba
went after him and brought back his clothes. The chief
of the robbers ordered one of his men to kill Kasim, but the
latter said that if he obeyed this order he (the robber) would
be sent to hell ; so the robber disguised Kasim and took him
to his chief as a candidate for admission to their band, and
the chief not recognizing him, he was admitted as one of
them. In every act a ballet and dances were introduced.
The same thing is done in France and Germany ; they do
not care to have their feelings outraged by a tragedy, and
if there be one they cry and sob frantically.
The following afternoon we inspected a school maintained
by the San Rocco Society. It occupies part of a large build-
ing, where the society holds its sittings ; members are ad-
mitted, who have to pay a certain sum of money according
to their means, the chief object of this society being to help
the poor ; there are various good paintings, and the wood
carving is also very fine, particularly noticeable being some
books in the hall carved in wood, which look very real.
There is a small door to the altar, made of bronze by Giovani
Marchori, the work of which is most artistic.
On October I2th we went in a gondola to see the Church
of San Marco. In the square visitors were feeding pigeons ;
we also bought some makka to feed them with, They are
so tame that they will sit upon one's hand, head or shoulder,
and are not afraid even of strangers ; no one is allowed to
kill them ; the law is strict in this respect. The facade of
San Marco is very handsome, and from outside looks like
a Mohammedan mosque. The figures of Christ and of the
saints are done in mosaic. This church dates from the ninth
century, but was rebuilt a century later. The high altar
has four pillars of marble upholding a canopy, and is well
238 TRAVEL PICTURES
worth close inspection. Two transparent pillars of alabaster
(said to have been taken from King Solomon's temple) adorn
a second behind the high altar, and the " Pala d'Oro," or
cloth of gold, which covers the latter is simply magnificent.
The whole altar is of gold, and mosaics upon it represent the
figures of Jesus Christ and the Apostles. Large and valuable
stones are set in the altar-piece, but diamonds are not in-
cluded among them, as our guide told us that they were
unknown in Venice when it was made. In the sacristy the
ceiling is painted with so much taste that numbers of artists
come to study it, and even now they find new ideas in the
decorations. We looked at it for some time, and could
distinguish different and beautiful designs. Here are kept
the robes of the priests and registers of births, marriages
and deaths. We also saw the Treasury, where there are
some very fine precious stones, old glassware and cut agate.
From the Baptistery we entered Cardinal Zeno's chapel,
where there are very beautiful bronze statues. On the
facade of the church stand four bronze gilt horses which
once belonged to Nero's triumphal arch. Close to San
Marco's is a clock tower, built in the fifteenth century ; the
hours and minutes change in figures every five minutes,
the hours in Roman figures and the minutes in ordinary
numbers. The dial presents the signs of the zodiac, and a
golden sun travels across it as he actually does in the
heavens. There is also a moon which shows its different
phases.
After luncheon we went to the Island of St. George, where
we saw the Church of San Giorgi Maggiore, built in the
Palladian style ; it is very simple inside, but there is a fine
group of bronze statues on the altar. The wood carving
in the choir is exceptionally good, and should not be missed.
Then we went over Jesurum & Co.'s lace manufactory.
First of all we saw a room in which fifty beginners were
working, the progress of each girl depending on her tasl
and intelligence ; some learn the work in a very short time.
The lace is fabricated in two different ways ; one kind is
made solely by needles, and in the other bobbins are used.
Passing on to the show-rooms, we found therein ten different
ITALY— NAPLES 239
departments, such as handkerchiefs, lace collars and cuffs,
dresses, curtains, table cloths and napkins, cushions and
other things. At this place they also make silks, velvet and
tapestry. We saw a very good collection of silks, and one
of the workers who took us round explained how they were
made. It is most interesting to see them working ; the
sound of the bobbins and the chattering of the girls was quite
sweet, and some of them were very young and had such
innocent faces. I think that Indians should take this trade
in hand ; in Lucknow and Delhi they already know how to
make lace, and they might well improve on their methods by
study at Venice.
After dinner we went out in a gondola on the Grand Canal.
There was no noise except the rippling of the waves, and a
splash here and there from other gondolas. The sky was
clear, but the moon was absent, and so it was dark, but there
was sufficient light from the stars which were shining in a
clear sky. There were not many lamps, and I cannot say
that the canal was lighted like Piccadilly, but there were a
few, which showed that the town was inhabited ; except for
these there were no signs of human life, no rush, no rattling
of 'buses, no clatter of cab horses' hoofs, and no sound of
motor-car horns. It was a perfect night ; Major Benn felt
very sleepy, but I never remember having enjoyed an outing
more than I did this. I shall be very sorry to leave Venice.
Next morning, October 13th, we visited the Picture Gal-
lery, which contains a good collection of paintings old and
new. On our way back we saw the Rialto Square, which is
very ancient, and in it stands the oldest church of Venice, as
well as a pillar on which any new law or act of the Republic
used to be published, being at the same time proclaimed in
St. Mark's Square. This column is ascended by a stair, under
which a " Gobbo " hunchback stands. In this square is
shown the shop of Shylock, who sold the bond written by
Antonio in the " Merchant of Venice." Then we walked over
the Rialto Bridge, which is the only stone one on the Grand
Canal. Major Benn went to the British Consul to get our
passports for Greece. These officials are of two sorts. His
Britannic Majesty's Consul is a servant of the State, paid by
240 TRAVEL PICTURES
the Government, who does not receive fees from people, and
there is also a commercial consul not paid by Government,
but living on the fees he gets from the public. The day being
fine we took photographs during the morning, and after
luncheon started in a motor boat for the islands. We passed
St. George's Island, one on which an asylum for the insane
had been built, and at a little distance from it a similar
house for insane women. The sun was shining brightly, and
the sky was clear, so we could see the more distant islands,
which looked very picturesque. A high church tower amid
a few trees made one island look like a ship surrounded by
water. We came next to the island of San Lazaro, where
there is a college for the education of Armenian priests. One
of the fathers, P. Nuri Khan, took us round and showed us
everything. Here reside about thirty young men studying
for the priesthood. They remain until the age of twenty- two,
after which they are sent away to some other place. Their
chief aim is to spread civilization, and preach against the
Mohammedan religion, as the Christian Armenians are very
much persecuted by the Sultan of Turkey. We went over
their museum, containing a good collection of antiquities,
also some old books written on parchment and painted by
hand. The father then took us to a room where there were
some astronomical and electrical instruments, among them
being a telescope which brings the moon 900 times nearer,
but as the moon was not visible we could not use it. He
showed us the church, refectory and kitchen, and very kindly
took us to the printing room, where some books written in
Armenian were under preparation. Father Nuri Khan told
us that their press worked in twenty-eight different languages,
and also that Armenian corresponds more nearly with Sans-
krit than with any other tongue. Then we wandered round
the garden, and saw the place where Lord Byron used to hold
converse with the priests, and where, in a corner with three
trees, he wrote " Childe Harold." We finished up by going
to the book repository, where I bought a few books, and then
after thanking our kind guide we rowed to the Lido, a bathing
resort on the Adriatic Sea. On this island we saw a horse
tramway and a few carriages ; these conveyances looked
VENICE, LORD BYRON S SEAT
CORFU
ITALY— NAPLES 241
quite strange to us, as for the last four or rive days we had
seen nothing except gondolas. From the landing-place we
drove to a spot where a number of people were having tea
and enjoying the view of the sea which spread, unbounded,
for miles before them. After taking some refreshment we
left this beautiful island and made for Murano, rowing past
many others and new districts which are being reclaimed
from the sea. There is also a very long breakwater which
keeps the sea out when there is a storm. At Murano we
went over the glass works of Salviati and Jesurum & Co.
The managers were all most polite, and gave us any informa-
tion we desired, and a skilled workman in the factory, who
was making a vase with great care, showed us every detail.
If one could start a glass factory on a big scale in India it
would do a great deal of good, as there is so much demand for
glassware.
We left Murano and rowed through the lagoon, where
fishermen were putting out their lines. The gondoliers are
very self-respecting ; they do not quarrel among themselves
as cabmen and coachmen do. They are gentle, but the motor
boats test their patience, as they think that these noisy,
swiftly travelling craft will take the place of their gondolas.
From our boat we saw the railway line which joins Venice
with the mainland. The length of this line, which runs over
a series of bridges, is 3,400 metres, and there are 120 arches.
Then we came into the Grand Canal, and on into the Jewish
quarters, to the house in which it is said Shylock used to live.
At that time the Jews had separate quarters, and were not
allowed to live in any other part of the city ; what injustice
it was for them !
Whilst we were at dinner we heard music coming from a
boat below, in front of the hotel restaurant, which was lighted
with Chinese lanterns. About a dozen men and women were
playing musical instruments and singing at the same time.
There are three parties who come in turns, and a man goes
round with a hat to collect money from visitors. They sing
so well that it is a treat to hear them in the stillness of the
night. Visitors were sitting quietly on the terrace of the
hotel listening to the music ; this the gondoliers did not
Q
242 TRAVEL PICTURES
approve of, so they began to make a noise, and the musicians
had to row out into the middle of the canal, where the
visitors soon followed them in gondolas. We also went for
a row in ours, and stopped near a musical party to listen.
Some of the Italian songs are similar to certain Indian tunes,
and the manner of singing is much the same as ours. In
Paris I heard an actress at the opera singing like our Kala-
wats, who was much admired, and people said that there are
few who could equal her. We listened to another party
at the Griinwald Restaurant, and afterwards went on as
far as St. Mark's Square, which is very beautiful. All the
high towers on Venice lean to one side or the other, as the
foundations are not strong enough. The houses in Venice
are like those of Amsterdam, every one being built on piles
of wood. Long poles are driven into the mud with the help
of a weight which is supported by a scaffolding and allowed
to fall on the poles. In this way a platform is made, and
then the work of building begins ; to keep the building
intact, iron poles or bars are put through the walls and
screwed down. A house may lean to one side, but there
is no chance of its falling.
The following morning we visited the Museo Civico, which
belongs to the town. The most interesting things in it are
the mouths of old wells. As Venice is surrounded by the
sea, people had to drink rain water all the year round, but
now there is a regular water-supply brought into the town
from the mountains, which are twenty miles distant. The
sanitary arrangements are like those of Germany ; all the
filth and dirt accumulates in deep pits, and every six months
or so they are cleared out and the refuse used as manure.
No one is allowed to throw anything into the water. The
roofs of most of the houses here are covered with tiles, such
as one sees in India ; and every window has a balcony,
whereas in other Italian towns there are very few balconies.
After luncheon we went to a place where gondolas are
made. In a corner stands an old-fashioned house ; this has
been bought by the Government and will be kept as it was.
The walls of the house are made of wooden planks and the
roof is of red tiles, which have become black owing to long
ITALY— NAPLES 243
exposure to the action of sun, rain and wind. Here many
gondolas were lying face downwards, and one was actually
in course of construction. There is a fixed measure for
gondolas ; a model of one is attached to the ground at the
workshop, and each part of a gondola is made to correspond
exactly with this model ; in this way the length, breadth
and height are uniform. They are all covered with black
paint, which counteracts the action of the sea water on the
wood, and every month have to be scraped and a new coat
of paint put on them. One gondola costs about 300 francs,
and will last for a century. The bottom is flat, and con-
sequently there is more safety in a gondola than in a boat
which is otherwise constructed. For repairs, hemp and flax
are used which, by means of an iron chisel and a hammer,
are forced into the crevices, and then a coating of paint is
put on. The headquarters of the gondoliers is by the column
of St. Theodore, who stands on a crocodile. St. Theodore
was the protector of Venice before St. Mark was brought
over from Egypt. When this Saint was in Egypt a band
of brigands attacked him, and he managed to escape from
them by standing on a crocodile in the Nile, which took him
to the other bank in safety. On the corresponding pillar
stands the bronze Lion of St. Mark.
On the Continent generally the English word " Hulloa!"
is used when one wants to attract the attention of another
person at the telephone or elsewhere, but in Italy they have
their own expressions.
On the morning of October I5th we visited the Arsenal.
One has to pay something to be allowed to go inside this
building. There is a collection of ships of all periods, among
these being a very good model of the craft which the Doges
used on the occasion of the " Marriage of the Sea," a cere-
mony performed on Ascension Day every year, on which
occasion a ring especially made for the purpose was
thrown into the Adriatic, as a symbol of Venice's supre-
macy ; this was a great festival in olden days. Here, too,
were the remains of a Mohammedan ship, captured by the
Venetians at the battle of Lepanto, 1571 ; as well as some
flags and standards taken at Corfu ; these are all preserved
244 TRAVEL PICTURES
to show the power which the Venetians formerly possessed.
An interesting model, too, is one showing the system of piles
on which the city is built. On our way back we took a
photograph of the " Calabria," an Italian battleship.
In Italy generally people drink Chianti wine, but in Venice
they drink " Nostrano," which means " our wine," though
it is made near Padua. The famous Portia, Shakespeare's
heroine in the " Merchant of Venice," is said to have lived
at Padua, but the house in which Desdemona, the heroine of
" Othello," is supposed to have lived is not far from our hotel,
in fact only a few feet away. Gondoliers have peculiar cries
for warning their fellow boatmen. If one wants to go to his
right he says " Premi," to his left " Stall," and straight on
"De lingo." When they stop they say " Sisa." These
people are really very good, and can be fully trusted ; all of
them have pleasant faces.
We left this lovely city for Brindisi at 3 o'clock in the
afternoon, and travelled to Mestre over a long series of
bridges. From the viaduct we could see the place where we
had rowed the previous night and the islands we had visited ;
now the time had come to say good-bye to this beautiful
town, and I did so with much sorrow. We reached Rovigo
at about 5 o'clock. The country was flat but the soil very
rich, and there was plenty of vegetation. After a time we
stopped at Pontelagoscuro, a fine place with many factories ;
a fairly good-sized river flows by it, and there is also a bridge
of boats. Bologna was not reached until 7 o'clock, about
forty minutes late ; we had, therefore, no time to get any
food at the restaurant, so the attendant wired to Rimini to
have four dinners ready, which we were only too glad to find
when we got there. Italian railways are very badly managed,
and nobody takes any notice of one's requirements. The
people generally are very backward in education.
Upon rising on the morning of October i6th we foum
ourselves in a country devoid of any picturesqueness
beauty ; it was just like Spain. On both sides of the line
vines were growing, and olive trees shaded them from the
sun, but the country was rugged and broken. We could see
the Adriatic Sea, as this railway travels along its coas
ITALY— NAPLES 245
From Bari we could discern the Marconi wireless telegraphic
station. Marconi is a wonderful man, and is still quite
young ; no doubt before long he will present the world with
more inventions.
We reached Brindisi at 12.20, and drove to the Grand
Hotel International, which is the best there. This place
abounds with beggars, thieves and dirty loafers ; the hotels
are inferior, in fact devoid of every species of comforts. It
is difficult to realize that, 1,900 years ago, Brindisi was very
much what Liverpool and Glasgow are for the British Empire
— an emporium of trade and a main artery of communica-
tion between East and West. Sic transit I Visitors are
mere birds of passage. When they come by train they some-
times find no steamer waiting for them, and have an hour or
so to spare for sight seeing ; but arrivals by steamer make
for the P. & O. special train, which always stands with steam
up a few feet from the quay. It was two hours behind time
that day, so the corresponding steamer will be proportion-
ately late in starting for Port Said.
After a poor luncheon we went for a drive ; the horses are
small and ill nourished ; one can count their very bones. A
boy in the street struck one of our pair with a stone ; such
little rascals should be punished severely ; they give annoy-
ance to the visitors and are a disgrace to the town. We saw
some ruins of the great Roman period, and then drove to a
Christian church which was built some 500 years ago ; it has
a very curious porch over the main portal. A little further
on we came to a farm, where we alighted. A woman with
some girls invited us to enjoy fruit from their trees ; she
gave us some very fine figs, which she picked for us, and
afterwards a bunch of grapes. She had a vegetable garden
and a well, the inside of which was covered with maiden-hair
fern. These poor folk were very hospitable, and we felt
quite at home in their company. They live on bread and
vegetables, maize being their staple food. On our way to
the church we saw a castle where 900 convicts are imprisoned.
We also visited a place where wine was being made ; the
grapes are put in a large vat and allowed to ferment for five
days ; then people crush them with their feet, and the juice
246 TRAVEL PICTURES
runs into casks through pipes of coarse cloth. They also
make a sweet variety of wine from perfectly ripe grapes. The
place was very dirty ; if one saw how this wine is made no
one would drink it. We passed through extensive vine-
yards on each side of the road. Our train was late owing to
others which were going up country laden with wine ; there
is but one pair of rails, and the ordinary trains have to run
on it.
The S.S. " Drepano," of 2,000 tons burden, in which we
were going to Athens, was standing in front of our hotel. We
left the latter at n o'clock, and were on deck in two minutes'
time. A party of musicians came on board, composed of a
man, boy and girl of eight. The adult played a guitar and
the others mandolines. Italians take to music as ducks to
water ; it comes by nature to them. The girl played the
mandoline beautifully. In India, alas, musical talent is
rarely cultivated.
CORFU, BRITISH DESTROYERS.
CHAPTER XVI
GREECE
Ax 5 p.m. on October ijth our ship weighed anchor and
steamed into the Adriatic Sea. On rising at 8 a.m. next
day I found the mainland on our left, and the Ionian Islands
on our right. An hour later Corfu came into sight, and
Albania in Turkey on the opposite quarter. This latter
country is very mountainous, with few trees on the slopes,
proving that its soil is poor, or perhaps neglected.
After a run of twelve hours from Brindisi, our steamer
anchored in the harbour of Corfu, and a good many boats
came alongside to take visitors ashore. We embarked in one
without Dr. Ramlal, who stands in mortal dread of a steep
ladder, and drove to the Grand Hotel St. George for luncheon.
It was a strange coincidence that the manager of this and the
Egerland Hotel at Marienbad were one and the same person.
He recognized us at once, and did all in his power to make us
comfortable. We enjoyed an excellent luncheon, as did
some fellow-passengers, Mr. and Mrs Mowbray Howard,
whose acquaintance we had made on board. Corfu belonged
to the English from 1815 till 1864, when Mr. Gladstone's
administration ceded it to Greece. In that year a German
king was superseded by the reigning monarch, who is a
brother of our Queen Alexandra. Its area is comparatively
small, but the scenery is beautiful and the soil extremely
fertile. We drove through the capital town ; the houses are
only one-storeyed, except hotels and shops, some of which
are four or five in height. In ancient times it was known as
" Pyrgos." We saw the grave of Menekrates, who was
247
24$ TRAVEL PICTURES
drowned and buried there. A Byzantine saint's body is
taken round the town thrice a year with great pomp, and a
fair is held on each occasion. The holy corpse is kept in a
silver coffin in the church of St. Spiridion. Vegetation is
very prolific, and sub- tropical plants grow in abundance,
though the climate is not wholly suitable to them ; I saw in
the Royal Garden palm trees bearing fruit, but they did not
ripen to perfection. They reminded me of Bombay, where,
however, palms render excellent fruit. Geraniums grow
wild here. The people seemed to be of different types, but
generally poor ; boys and girls run after visitors' carriages
with a few flowers, in hopes of having coppers thrown to
them. We saw the Palace, which was originally built by
General Adam, Lord High Commissioner during the British
regime. The King of the Hellenes occupies it for two months
of each year. It is well proportioned, with a splendid view
of the sea and the Albanian coast. The garden is spacious,
and full of brilliant flowers. In a state bed-chamber I
observed some interesting calligraphy. When King George
is here and his relations come to stay with him, it is customary
for them to write their names on a glass door attached to a
wardrobe, or almirah. Among the autographs I saw those of
our late King Emperor, who cut the word " Eddy " with a
diamond ; of Queen Alexandra, " George " (Prince of Wales),
and several Russian Royalties. There are places for sea-
bathing near the Palace. Thence we drove to Canone, from
which a grand view of the harbour is obtained, and of small
islands in the sea beyond it. One of them is called the
" Mouse Island/' another the " Ship of Ulysses." The
villas and villages on the slope of the mountains look very
picturesque. In order to reach Canone we drove along a
winding circular road which passes through groves of olive
and orange trees. On our way back to the hotel we saw
Persian roses growing wild, and hedges consisting of beautiful
flowering plants. At one place we bought a few oranges,
which are grown here in abundance. Our carriage passed a
two-storeyed house in which some lads were being taught
the rudiments of knowledge. The schoolmaster was a priest
of the Greek Church, and the pupils were committing their
GREECE 249
lessons to memory just as they do in India. This dominie
resembled a street chestnut-seller in London. Then we
drove by a famous avenue, which does not deserve its reputa-
tion, to an old fortress, now used for barracks, where some
recruits were going through the first military exercises.
After buying a few photographs of Corfu, we returned to our
boat, which left at 4.20 p.m. Four or five British men-of-
war were anchored in the harbour. We had observed the
crews enjoying themselves after a boisterous fashion on
shore ; some of them were drunk and being carried shoulder-
high by their friends, others were seated at a table with
wine in front of them. When a fleet comes into port after
a long cruise the sailors get their pay, and spend most of it
in wine and folly. I saw some of them driving about in
carriages ; they were smartly dressed, and seemed to be
good-hearted fellows. The island of Corfu is long, and for a
considerable time we did not lose sight of it. At 6 p.m.
supper was served in the dining-saloon, when the captain
came down from the bridge. After we left Corfu a slight
breeze sprang up, and the ship began to be lively. I could
not take any food, but ran up on deck and lay down on one
of the ventilators and covered myself with a rug. As we
proceeded, the rage of the storm increased, and the ship
began to pitch violently. I remained glued to my place.
When the steamer rounded Corfu she rolled terribly, and
the waves struck her with such force that I half expected her
to break up. Every minute I feared she would ship a great
sea, which would make a clean sweep of the decks, my poor
self included. I do not remember such a storm before.
Rain came down in torrents, and there was hardly any person
on board who did not get sick. As I lay still, without getting
up, I did not suffer. Dr. Ramlal, too, was proof against
sea-sickness, but he did not come to us on deck, as the ship
was pitching heavily. Two or three times he tried to do so,
but was so overpowered by the motion that he could not
stand, much less climb stairs.
At 4 a.m. on October i8th the storm began to abate,
and I was able to move towards my cabin. On reaching
the top of the staircase I encountered an awful odour, a
250 TRAVEL PICTURES
by-product of the gale. In spite of this unpleasantness, a
craving for sleep compelled me to push onwards, and in a
few minutes I was locked in slumber. I got up again very
shortly, as we had to land at Patras at 7 o'clock, but our
steamer was late, and we did not arrive till 7.50, when the
train left for Athens. Mr. Wood, the British Consul, came
in a boat from one of the torpedo-destroyers ; two European
officials also came to receive me, and in a very short time
we were in the Grand Hotel at Patras, which belongs to
Messrs. T. Cook & Son. I never met with such bad accom-
modation anywhere. To start with, there was no bath-room,
the fare was poor and scanty, and everything in the worst
possible condition. Mr. Wood informed me that three weeks
ago one of the destroyers sank with all hands ; she was
going at full speed, when suddenly she began to wobble, and
in seven minutes went to the bottom. Divers are at work,
as the Government wishes to find out what was wrong with
the boat. The crews of other destroyers are naturally anxious,
for there must be some radical defect in construction if these
vessels can disappear without having suffered apparent
injury. Patras is one of the principal ports of Greece. It
is possible to travel by sea for some distance up the gulf, but
we took the railway. The town is a small one, but electric
trams are running and much frequented, as the roads are
very rough on wheeled traffic. In front of the hotel I noticed
a row of ten or twelve cobblers, Chamars, as we should say ;
I had never seen such a collection of shoemakers at one
place. Many of the people wore the picturesque Albanian
costume. It includes white skirts, just like the Jamas one
sees in India, but the Albanian skirts come only down to the
knee, whereas our Jama reaches the ankles. There is another
curious thing about this dress ; it has two extra sleeves
which hang down behind ; I do not know whether they
serve any useful purpose. The further east one goes, the
more one finds people dirty and dowdy in their habits. We
left Patras about noon, Mr. Wood came to see me off ; he
is really most courteous, and did everything possible to make
us comfortable. The railway passes along a range of stately
mountains, those of the Albanian coast being especially
GREECE 251
beautiful. The stations on this line are very small, and no
sort of order is maintained by the officials. I saw scores of
people jumping on the foot-board and travelling with the
train for a considerable distance, yet no one seemed to take
any notice of them. The trains go at a very low speed,
something like those on our Rajputana-Malwa line. As we
left Patras two fortresses came in sight ; they were used in
ancient times to protect the gulf from an enemy's attacks.
Towards the evening we arrived at Corinth ; the modern
town is newly built and every house is of one storey, but
remains of ancient grandeur show that Corinth was once a
glorious city. Then we crossed a canal which was begun in
the time of the Emperor Nero, to pierce the narrow neck of
land which separates the Morea from Greece proper; tra-
versed groves of olive trees well laden with fruit, and vines
planted so thickly that one wondered how the produce is
disposed of. Grapes are consequently very cheap. In this
country, horse conveyances and ploughs are of much the
same shape that one sees in India. Education is evidently
at a low ebb ; the higher authorities should pay more atten-
tion to this. At the station we found a shop for the sale of
fruit and drinks, and at every stoppage passengers rushed
out to purchase.
We reached Athens at 8 p.m. Mr. Desgraz, the First
Secretary of Legation, was waiting for me with a state
carriage, in which I drove to the Grand Hotel d'Angleterre,
where a few minutes later the British Minister, Sir Francis
Elliot, called upon me. After our long journey from Venice
to this place we were compelled to rest awhile, for we had
not had any decent food these last few days ; we therefore
settled down here for a spell, as the hotel was a good one.
The manager went to meet us at the station, and a red cloth
was spread for me on the steps and pavement leading to
our carriage. On October igth I paid a return visit to Sir
Francis Elliot at the Legation. We sat in the library, and,
in course of conversation, he gave me a book to read on
"Ancient Athens/' by Gardner. We returned to the hotel
to change our top-hats and frock-coats, and before visiting
the lions of Athens, first saw a gate built in the year 140 A.D.
252 TRAVEL PICTURES
by the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who divided the city of
Athens into two quarters, the inner one for Romans and the
outer for Greeks. We next went to the Temple of Jupiter,
which is quite near. A few stupendous columns alone remain
standing, and one fell down about fifty years ago. The
pillars and the carving of the capitals is very good indeed.
From this temple the Acropolis and other hills can be seen.
Then we proceeded to the Panathenaion Stadium, or race-
course, which is under construction. A sum of 6,000,000
francs, equivalent to 36 lakhs of rupees, has been given for
the purpose by M. Averof, who is a wealthy Greek merchant
of Alexandria. The guide told us that within two months the
building would be completed. The stand can hold 60,000
spectators, and marble is the only material employed
throughout. The original Stadium was built by Lycurgus
in the year 630 B.C., and the outdoor international " Olym-
pian Games " will be held here next year. Near the
Stadium there is a round building which used to display a
panorama of the Siege of Paris in 1870, but the paintings
were bought by an American and removed to the United
States of America. We drove past the Palace of the Crown
Prince, who is temporarily Regent. The road in front of
the Palace is lined with pepper trees, which bear fruit, but
the pepper-corns do not ripen ; perhaps the climate is not
hot enough for them. The Royal Palace is visible from our
hotel. It is a heavy building, with no gardens visible,
situated on a prominence where the slope is covered with
yellow earth. In front of the Palace there is a square,
where bands play on certain evenings for the amusement of
the public. There are no electric tramways in this city, but
wretched looking horses drag vehicles running on rails. The
Greeks do not breed horses, and so have to look to other
countries for their draught animals. The people are fond
of out-of-doors life, and generally sit outside the cafes,
chattering and consuming preserves, coffee, etc. They seem
poor, but active and fond of discussion. The roads are
badly kept, and seldom or never watered. No doubt there
is some deficiency of fresh water, but the sea is comparatively
near, and might supply what is needed. After lunching we
GREECE 253
drove to the Acropolis, or ancient citadel, visiting en route
the Theatre of Dionysus (Bacchus). Its dimensions were
enormous, capable of seating 30,000 spectators. It had no
roof, as the performance took place only in fine weather.
The best and most prominent seats were allotted to priests
attached to the different temples ; their marble chairs still
have the names of the different temples carved on them, and
there is a dais on which the throne of the Emperor Hadrian
used to stand during the performances. The stage is
supported by stooping figures of the god of music, etc. The
orchestra was paved with marble, and a peculiarity of the
old Greek theatre is to be seen in three doors leading to the
stage from the regions behind the scenes. At a short
distance are the mins of the " Theatre of Herodes Atticus,"
or " Odeum," which was rather a music hall than a theatre.
It could hold 60,000 people. At one time it was roofed with
wood, which was destroyed by fire, and the theatre was
allowed to fall into decay. On the top of the stage the guide
showed us a very small room, and told us that when there
was a performance in which gods and goddesses were
required to appear they used to come out from a trap-door,
and in that room the apparatus stood which worked them up
and down. This theatre was built by a rich Roman, and
called after the name of his wife. Then we saw the jail
where, according to tradition, Socrates was imprisoned, and
afterwards poisoned because he scoffed against the religion
of the time. It consists of three rooms hewn out of the
living rock, two of which are shut, while the third is a double
chamber, at the back of which there is a smaller one, which
is domed. To this day in Seistan (so Major Benn told me)
people build houses with similar domes. We also saw the
ancient Parliament House, of which nothing remains except
the stage of Demosthenes, which is cut out of the rock, with
three steps leading up to it. When any member of the
assembly wanted to make a speech he had to mount that
stage. Near by are the ruins of the ancient walls which
surrounded the city of Athens. From this spot there is a
very good view of the olive groves and of Piraeus, the port
of Athens and the sea. Between the House of Assembly
254 TRAVEL PICTURES
and the Acropolis there used to stand a Palace of Justice,
which is now being excavated. Many ruins of houses have
been unearthed at this spot, and no one can say what wonder-
ful things they will bring to light. On our way to the hotel
we saw the Temple of Theseus, which is the oldest of all the
ruins of Athens. When the Christians became masters of
this great capital they turned the temple into a church, and
when the Turks got the upper hand they converted it into
a hospital, and finally into stables. It is well preserved, and
gives a good idea of the Hellenic temples of old. We saw a
man, evidently very ill, lying on the solid stones near this
temple. Several boys were standing by, but no one helped
him. I asked the guide to find out what was the matter
with the poor creature ; first, he said that the man was
drunk, but when I insisted that he should make further
enquiries, he did so, and reported that it was really a case of
illness. We ordered the guide to take the sick man to an
hospital in our carriage, but he said that the police had sent
for an ambulance cart, and he could soon be moved. Thank
God, in Greece there are no beggars like one sees in Italy,
though cripples are met with here and there ! I think that
England, France and Germany are the countries which take
the greatest care of their sick and maimed ; in other lands
the people are not so humane in this respect. Mr. and Mrs.
Howard dined with us, and after dinner we talked long and
earnestly about palmistry and hypnotism.
On the morning of October 2Oth we drove to the Acro-
polis, where there are some deeply interesting ruins. First, we
admired a little gem of a temple dedicated to Victory (Nike) ,
and then entered the Acropolis by its main gateway. The
whole is made of massive blocks of marble ; it is difficult
to surmise how people of those times contrived to lift such
immense stones to a height of 100 feet and more. This
entrance is called the " Belin " Gate, after a French gentle-
man who identified its ruins. Proceeding further we saw
the place where animals used to be sacrificed, and then the
great Temple of Athene, patron goddess of Athens, called
the " Parthenon," from the Greek word for " Virgin." It
was turned into a church when the Christians came into
GREECE 255
power. When the Turks succeeded them they converted
it into a mosque, and actually erected minarets, which were
destroyed during a bombardment of the Venetians. Frescoes
on the walls, painted during the Christian occupancy, can
still be seen, though faintly. The Turks had a powder
magazine here during the siege of Athens by the Venetians,
and a shell fell into the temple, destroying the roof, and dis-
lodging many of its mighty pillars. Most of the sculptures
which adorned the exterior were removed by a Lord Elgin,
and are now in the British Museum. The Erectheum, hard
by, is a smaller but very beautiful temple, and the figures of
the six virgins which support the porch instead of columns
are very well preserved. This temple is under restoration,
and in a short time will be in perfect order. I was glad to
hear from our guide that English, French, German and even
American societies are employed in excavating and searching
for antiquities. The Greek Government has given them a
free hand, but does not allow them to remove their " finds/'
though they can have as many plaster of Paris casts made of
them as they please. Their researches show that the ancient
Greeks were versed in the use of iron and lead ; at many
places I saw huge blocks of marble riveted together by ties
of these metals. Then we went to the museum which has
been established on the top of the Acropolis, and contains
all the statues and other articles found within that citadel.
In one room we noticed a female statue draped in the old
Maratha fashion, with earrings resembling those which are
now worn by Indian ladies. After lunching with Mr. and
Mrs. Howard we drove to the National Museum, which
really has a very wonderful collection of antiquities. First,
we went into the centre room, in which gold ornaments and
masks found in ancient tombs are kept. Some of them are
as old as the twelfth century B.C. ; they are very finely made,
the chains being especially artistic. In this room we also
saw some instruments of the Stone Age, far older than the
gold articles. After the Romans conquered Greece they
removed many statues to Rome in ships, one of which
foundered in the Mediterranean. Its location at the bottom
of the sea has been discovered, and many works of art,
256 TRAVEL PICTURES
especially a beautiful statue, have been recovered. This
represents Athene, and is a real masterpiece. Another of
Neptune is equally worth seeing. We then examined
sarcophagi in which the dead were buried, with glass bottles
for holding the mourners' tears. We also saw stone jars
containing the ashes of the dead, from which it appears that
cremation was customary, as it is at present in India. A
number of statues dredged up out of the sea have been placed
in the veranda : most of them have suffered much from wave
action and accretions of shells. There is a small garden in
the front of the museum, which is beautifully kept. In
European gardens raised flower beds of different designs,
with plants of varied foliage and flowers, are common. I
saw many children playing about, with their nurses watching
them. Greek women are generally simply clad, and most
of them are of a dark complexion. We then returned to the
hotel. In the square a band was playing, and many people
were lounging about to enjoy the music. We took our seats
on the balcony, and Major Benn very kindly made tea for
Mr. and Mrs. Howard and myself.
On October 2ist Major Benn and I went to the telegraph
office to send some messages. While waiting outside I
observed a man leaving the office with a newly- written paper,
which he dried with dust from the street. Evidently blotting
paper is not provided in Greek telegraph offices. Many
people dressed in Albanian costume were walking in the
streets, and some had rosaries in their hands as one sees in
India. Hukkas with a very small Chilams are smoked in
the cafes. Then we went to an old cemetery, which proved
very interesting. One of the tombstones displayed a fine
figure of a bull ; on another, Charon, the mythical ferry-man,
was rowing some souls across the river Styx, and prudently
taking their fares beforehand. Then we saw the main
entrance to Athens, and the old walls which went as far as
its port, the Piraeus. Through this gate Philip of Macedon,
father of Alexander the Great, entered Athens, though half
of his army had been annihilated. Next we saw a Turkish
mosque, which is the only one of its kind in Athens. This
was at one time a prison, and is now unoccupied, but
ATHENS, TOWER OF THE WINDS
A DESERTED MOSQUE
an
so
an
or
GREECE 257
merchants and shopkeepers, when so inclined, may pray
there. Near the mosque is the Colonnade of Hadrian and
a gymnasium, now in ruins. Further on we saw the Agora,
or market of ancient Athens. It consisted of shops, the
remains of which are still visible, bordering an open space
or court-yard. At one place, where the country people sold
their goods, I observed an antique jar sticking out of the
wall ; no one can tell to-day what it once contained. The
" Tower of the Winds " is a delightful building ; it has eight
regular sides, each of which is adorned with sculptures
typifying a wind. There is also a sun-dial and a water-
clock, which used to show the time in cloudy weather.
Hard by were several ancient wells, deeply scored on the
parapet by the ropes used in drawing water. Then we went
to a small Greek church which is 700 years old. These
churches are very rich, and their mural paintings are covered
with gold and silver. Thence to another church, which is
no less than 1,500 years old ; its interior is most beautiful,
and the high altar so sacred that no one except the priest is
allowed to approach it. We returned at 12.15 to see Mr.
and Mrs. Howard off for the Piraeus and Crete. After lunch
Sir Francis Elliot called and took us to the English School,
which has a good library. Messrs. Tod and Corelie showed
me round, and explained different things connected with the
library. Then they took us to " Finland/' which was
started by a gentleman of that name who once lived here
and collected a good library. He was a wonderful man in
me respects ; he kept a full record of every book he wrote,
and the opinion upon it expressed by various people in letters
or newspapers. These registers contain cuttings from the
newspapers, and original letters written to him by different
persons. New additions are being made to the school,
where the authorities are thinking of setting up a bust of
Mr. Primrose, who was its first president. In the evening
I dined with Sir Francis Elliot, to meet H.R.H. the Crown
Prince and Princess Beatrice, also the Prime Minister, the
Minister for Foreign Affairs, and the representatives of
Russia and Germany. The Princess was very charming, and
conversed for a long time with me. In the course of talking
258 TRAVEL PICTURES
with the Minister of Foreign Affairs, I learnt that the pro-
ject of making railways to connect Greece with Europe was
under consideration, and that in four years' time Greece
would not remain so secluded as at present. This will be
an immense advantage, as it will bring a host of tourists ;
many people long to visit the cradle of European civilization,
but are deterred by the long sea passage. I had a brief
conversation with the Crown Prince and the Prime Minister,
who were most affable, and interested in my opinion of their
country.
Next day we again visited the Museum, as the Minister for
Foreign Affairs very kindly sent one of its Directors to show
us round. We now found the objects we had already seen
even more interesting, as we learnt more about them. There
is a tombstone, the carving of which shows most exquisitely
the grief of an old man who had lost his son. We again met
Mr. Corelie here, who had been studying coins. He explained
to us that, before the invention of money, Western people
used to give cattle in exchange for other articles ; whereas
in the East swords were used for the same purpose. After
lunch we took photographs of the Acropolis from the Observa-
tory, and saw the different instruments used for taking
observations ; there is an anemometer, which automatically
registers the direction from which the wind is blowing, and
its speed per hour. We saw a huge telescope, which was not
in working order. The official who took us round said that
it would soon be repaired, but that the Observatory dome
was too small for this telescope. We were shown other
instruments, such as barometers and rain gauges, but the
most interesting was a seismograph for measuring earth-
quakes, which consists of a heavy weight suspended to a
long wire. The least tremor gives motion to this weight,
which automatically registers the strength and direction of
the shock. On our way back we took photographs of the
old theatre on a flank of the Acropolis ; I had taken one at
the Museum of a beautiful bronze statue, which had lately
been raised from the sea. I saw a number of Greek soldiers
wearing skirts, which the guide told us was their uniform.
It has a very quaint effect. In the evening I again dined
ATHENS, PART OF THE STADIUM
THE PIRvEUS, A VEGETABLE-SELLER
GREECE 259
with Sir Francis Elliot, and afterwards went out on his
terrace. The moon was full and the sky clear ; it was a
perfectly beautiful night. Through Sir Francis Elliot's tele-
scope we could see three out of four of Saturn's moons.
Lady Elliot is very lively and charming, and I was delighted
to make the acquaintance of both.
In the morning of October 23rd I visited the British School
of Archaeology. From this building one could see a curious
conical hill dedicated to St. George, on the top of which is a
monastery and church. From this hill one obtains a magnifi-
cent view of Athens and the country round. This morning
I left cards on Sir Francis and Lady Elliot, and two photo-
graphs for her and Mr. Desgraz. They have been most kind
and hospitable.
We left Athens at 10.30 ; the roads within the city are
infamous, but, curiously enough, when we reached the open
country we found our track good in every respect. At this
place street hawkers sell their goods from donkeys, which
have a very rough time of it ; all day long they have to
trudge from one street to another, laden with grapes, etc.
The newspaper boys make a terrible din, shouting the names
of papers, and sometimes call out important news. The
language of the country is that of ancient Greece, alphabet
and all. On our way to the Piraeus we saw Phabron, a
rising town in the neighbourhood of Athens. In this country
the people consume goat's meat, as other kinds are very
dear. We reached the Piraeus about noon ; it is a fashion-
able summer resort, and has considerable trade. The
Russian steamship " Tsar " was waiting for passengers in
the harbour. We left the shore in a small rowing boat,
which took us to the " Tsar " in five minutes' time. She
was fairly large but very dirty, and had about 300 deck
passengers, all of whom, being Turks, were addicted to
smoking, and generally unclean in their habits. There were
also at least 100 sheep, and fowls innumerable, so the odour
from this dense mass of human and animal life was over-
powering. The passengers were packed like sardines ; there
was no difference between first and second class, while
deck passengers roamed at their own sweet will. Many men
260 TRAVEL PICTURES
were accompanied by dogs, which kept up an incessant bark-
ing. It was curious to see Turks dressed in gay colours
making tea, smoking their pipes and shouting, whilst sheep
were bleating, dogs barking and some passengers running to
and fro in order to put their luggage in the proper place,
others cursing the authorities of the ship for the inconvenience
caused them. Many had to sleep in the dining-saloon, which
was piled with luggage — a thing never allowed on board the
P. & O. steamers. Fortunately our cabin was spacious, and
was so situated that we suffered no inconvenience.
We left the Piraeus at 2.15, after another boat had entered
the harbour, which is so narrow that not more than one ship
can pass at a time. As we steamed out of the harbour we
had a fine view of shipping in the foreground, and the lofty
white houses of the Piraeus in the rear. Up to 9 p.m. we
sighted various islands, as our course lay through the " Isles
of Greece," sung by Lord Byron so enchantingly. The night
was very beautiful, with a full moon and a clear sky. The
sea was smooth, the din quelled for a time, and everything
seemed to be at peace, so I remained long on deck. In
Russian ships the captain has nothing to do with the cooking
or the food of the passengers ; but the stewards did every-
thing in their power to make us comfortable ; and some of
them were very smart. It is passing strange that this
steamer, carrying several hundred passengers, had but one
bath-room. Russian people are clearly not so fond of bath-
ing as are Englishmen.
The sea was rather rough on the morning of October 24th ;
we were travelling parallel with the Island of Crete, and at
4 a.m. the ship stopped at Suda Bay for half an hour to
deliver mails. The town is garrisoned by a detachment of
200 Greek soldiers. Crete once belonged to Turkey, but after
the war of 1897 it was placed under the Governorship of
Prince George of Greece, who has lately resigned his post.
I felt very unwell, and had to remain in my cabin till late
in the afternoon. We were able to see the Cretan mountains
for a considerable time on our left hand, and also the Island
of Karpathos. The captain paid me a visit, and we had
some talk about the weather. He invited me to his cabin,
THE PIRAEUS, THE HARBOUR
ALEXANDRIA, EXCAVATIONS
GREECE
261
where he showed me a sextant and other instruments
connected with navigation. I read till very late, as the sea
was calm and I enjoyed sitting on deck. The night was
warm and cloudy ; the moon was not seen in her full
splendour, but a breeze blew gently, which had a soothing
effect.
CHAPTER XVII
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN
WHEN I got up on the morning of October 25th I found that
we were still in the Mediterranean. At night the captain
sent for me to examine the working of his sextant and the
charts by which he checks the ship's course. The weather
was perfect ; there was a slight swell — so slight that the
ship did not feel it.
At 9 a.m. on Wednesday the captain told me that we were
67 miles from Alexandria, and at 3.30 we came in view of
its highest light-house. As our ship proceeded at a uniform
speed of thirteen knots per hour, other houses and ships in
the harbour began unfolding themselves to our vision, and by
4.30 the steamer was alongside the quay. There was a great
rush of hotel-keepers and passengers ; no one knew what
he was doing ; the gangway was monopolized by the deck
passengers, and everyone wishing to leave the ship had to
fight his way through a struggling mass. There was much
noise and no order whatever. Egyptians are very fond of
tattooing ; I saw many men whose hands and feet were
covered with patterns. After a prolonged struggle we
reached the New Khedivial Hotel at 6 p.m.
Next morning, October 26th, we awoke on terra firma, and
found everything in its usual course. Major Benn went to
Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son for our boxes, which were to have
come from Europe, while I made the acquaintance of Mr.
Chitty, Director General of Customs in Egypt. We started
for an excursion through the streets of Alexandria, which is
divided into two quarters — one in which the natives live,
262
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 263
and the other sacred to foreigners, just as in continental
Europe the Jewish quarters are distinct from others. The
streets are full of people of various types, and differently
dressed. The natives wear long robes and loose pyjamas,
but the educated classes affect European costume. The
police seem very smart, as the administration of Egypt is
practically in the hands of the English. The streets are
dirty, even in the European quarters ; the principal thorough-
fares are asphalted, but the side roads are paved with large
stone slabs, and consequently very noisy. An interesting
character is the water-carrier, who sells iced water to the
passers-by. He has half a dozen small glasses in a leather
belt specially made to hold them, and a curiously shaped
instrument with many trinkets hanging to it, which produce
different notes as he walks ; while another made of brass is
held in his hand, and gives out a peculiar noise. The price
charged for the iced water is almost nominal. The common
people generally walk without shoes. The police are dressed
in a white uniform, which looks very neat ; they wear red
Turkish " fezzes " with a black silk tassel on the top. There
are many cafes, where people enjoy themselves and take
shelter from the sun. I saw some playing backgammon ;
nearly everyone takes immense interest in this game, which
may really be called the national game of Egypt ; others
were engaged on dominoes, and the Germans are much
addicted to cards. Donkeys are ubiquitous ; one sees
people of all ranks riding them, gaily caparisoned. Egyptian
donkeys attain a good size and are very strong. In the
streets the respectable women wear veils on their faces ;
their chins are generally swathed in white cloth, and an
ornament is placed on their foreheads, to which the veil is
attached. They really look very quaint in this costume.
In higher circles they have adopted the European dress,
with some modifications. The women also wear ornaments
round their ankles, as ours do, and it was strange to find
many others using mehdi, or henna, on the soles of their feet,
and churies, or bangles of glass, round their wrists. Tattoo-
ing is common with both sexes, proving that Egyptians
retain many traits of primitive man. We drove to the
264 TRAVEL PICTURES
Place Mehemet All, which is a square with fine trees and a
bronze statue of the soldier of fortune who founded the reign-
ing dynasty of Egypt. Then we went to the Khedive's
Palace, styled " Raset Tin/' which is situated on the
Mediterranean Sea, and commands a fine marine view. Its
exterior is by no means imposing.
We then drove to Pompey's Pillar, which is surrounded
by mounds of earth, in which the work of excavation is still
progressing. This is a lofty column, which was formerly
surmounted by a colossal statue. Then we came to cata-
combs discovered only a few years ago, where excavations
were going on with much ardour ; visitors who wish to
descend have to pay a fee of a piastre, or eight annas. They
go by easy steps down a well, which is covered with a glass
roof to allow sunlight to enter. Electric light has been
installed below, which makes an immense difference to the
visitor. These catacombs appear to date from the Roman
conquest, as the sarcophagi are ornamented with Greek
designs. The lower depths are still flooded with water, and
work is suspended until it can be pumped out. It was very
curious to find figures of gods, resembling those we see
every day in India painted on the walls of our temples.
Thence we drove back to the hotel, through the old and new
quarters of Alexandria. After lunch I visited Chitty Bey,
Director of Egyptian Customs, who took me to his office and
the godowns, where tobacco is kept. They are very exten-
sive, and contain tobacco from every quarter of the globe,
as cigarettes are made here for exportation. Chitty Bey
told me that a very considerable quantity of cotton is
exported every year from Egypt, which has become hugely
prosperous by importing and exporting merchandise. The
Customs is a paying department and managed creditably.
He told us that it requires great care to prevent bhang and
ganja — intoxicants made from hemp — from being smuggled
into Egypt from Greece, where this crop is specially culti-
vated for export to Egypt. Then he took me to a school
which he had started only four years ago. It is supported by
Government, and peasants pay only one penny per diem for
the children's education. The Heir of the throne of Egypt
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 265
is a patron of this school. Chitty Bey took us round the
classes, where boys learn to read and write Arabic. There is
also a school here where girls are taught the rudiments of
learning, lace making, sewing and knitting. The boys attend
every alternate day, and in the intervals they receive instruc-
tion in handicrafts, such as carpentry, modelling, shoe-
making, etc. An Italian bandmaster instructs some of them
in music. In this way every possible effort is done to make
the future generation capable of earning their livelihood
independently. The boys ought to enjoy good health, but
I was sorry to see many of them looking pale and ill-
nourished. It was pleasant to find that the authorities had
not forgotten to place a small gymnasium at their disposal.
As we entered the school the boys' band played the National
Anthem, and, while we took coffee, they charmed our ears
with selections of good music. One of which was a march
composed in honour of Chitty Bey. I enjoyed myself very
much at this school, and on our return to the hotel Chitty
Bey gave us tea. In the evening we bought some photo-
graphs and postcards, our guide receiving the usual com-
mission surreptitiously from the shopkeepers. Great is the
power of bakhshish throughout the East !
The following morning, October 27th, having obtained
some money from Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, I sallied
forth to procure photographs of the principal characters of
Alexandria, such as the water-carrier, or bhisti, the bread-
seller and women wearing veils. I made preparations to
photograph one of the water-sellers, but when he saw me with
a camera he would not stand to be photographed, and ran
away ! The date is the chief fruit of Egypt ; we saw date
palms in abundance everywhere, and they really looked very
beautiful.
We left Alexandria for Cairo at noon by train, which passed
through large swamps and then over a series of bridges,
across canals, which intersect the country and carry Nile
water everywhere. The Nile is a wonderful river, and is the
source of this country's prosperity and wealth. Credit
should undoubtedly be given to the English, who have made
Egypt what it is to-day. The whole plain is covered with
266 TRAVEL PICTURES
fields of maize and cotton, and a good sprinkling of sugar
cane is also seen. The soil is very rich, but rice seems
almost unknown, although I wonder why it is not produced,
there being plenty of water for its cultivation. Our train,
after a run of one and a half hours, with three short stoppages,
brought us to Cairo at 3.15 p.m. We drove to Shepherd's
Hotel, which is known all over the world. The manager
gave us an excellent suite with a fine balcony in front of
my drawing-room. I was much disappointed at finding no
letters, but Major Benn went to Messrs. Thomas Cook &
Son's office and brought back a registered letter for me,
which contained a draft for £300. Our first thought was to
make a general survey of the city, and we therefore went to
the Citadel. On our way we saw a library which had been
completed only a few months ago, and the exterior of two
mosques which people say will never be finished, namely,
Riaaiyeb and Sultan Hassan. We drove to the Citadel by
a winding road. It is occupied by English troops, but is
nevertheless open to public inspection. From a battery of
Krupp guns a very fine view of the city of Cairo and of the
tombs of the Khalifas is obtained, and one can also make out
a road running between high walls, where the Mamlukes were
treacherously killed by Mehemet Ali's orders. They were
hereditary guards, who became so turbulent that their
massacre was resolved on, and carried out with cruelty,
only one escaping. Then we went into the mosque Mehemet
Ali, which was built about 50 years ago. Its vast dome is
supported by four square pillars, and it was necessary to
replace those originally erected, because they were unequal
to the strain placed on them. Every mosque contains a
lofty pulpit, from which the sheikh preaches. The tomb of
Mehemet Ali stands at one of the four corners of this mosque ;
it is a fine piece of work. We then walked round the build-
ing, and reached a spot facing the setting sun, from which
we could see the Khedivial Palace and the quarters occupied
by the Ministers when the Citadel was the abode of royalty.
The Mukkattam Hills near by command the site of the
Citadel, and would make it untenable in war. The Pyramids
and the Nile were very distinct, as the sun was setting through
CAIRO, A STREET SCENE
A BAKER S STALL
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 267
clouds ; the reflection of the red sky was lovely, and I enjoyed
it very much. From this place the tombs of ancient Mam-
luke sovereigns are also visible. On our way back we
passed through dirty bazaars, some of which gave forth such
offensive smells that we were obliged to drench our hand-
kerchiefs with eau-de-cologne. In the evening we crossed
the river by a fine bridge, with two bronze lions keeping
guard on either side of it. We saw private villas springing
up in all directions. The Ghizera Palace Hotel is very
pretty, and its garden tastefully laid out with some good
statues and fountains.
On our way to the Muski Bazaar on October 28th we
passed the Frery Bridge Station, which was constructed
only a few months ago in English style. It looked very neat
and clean ; I do not know whether people work here with
the same activity as they do in England. There is not much
attractiveness in the Muski Bazaar for an Indian, although
it contains a good deal to amuse Europeans who have never
seen an oriental city. Then we went to the great Moham-
medan University, where 14,000 students are taught Arabic.
It is a vast edifice, but I do not think that it is properly
managed. Every district has its own section, and there are
professors of different sciences, who sit on rudely-made
chairs, while the students make a circle round each. All
the professors expound text-books to their pupils at the
same time, and the latter repeat their lessons loudly, creating
such a din that I wonder how they can hear what their
teachers say. The sections are not divided by party walls,
and it is quite impossible to confine the noise to one room.
Another drawback is that boarders have an allowance of
bread only. I doubt whether this system is conducive to
turning out great and noble men. They may be good pro-
fessors of Arabic lore, but the authorities ought to bring the
University up to date, if it is really to be an instrument for
regenerating Egypt. From the University we went to the
tomb of the Khalifas, which look very picturesque. The
old Arabs did great wonders in this respect. Their religion
forbids them to carve or paint any living object, and so they
could use lines only ; but some of their designs are most
268 TRAVEL PICTURES
beautiful. In this mosque we saw two stones which are
said to bear the footprints of Mohammed himself ; they are
held in great reverence. Then we saw the late Khedive's
tomb, which is under construction, or rather being repaired,
and when the ornamentation is finished it will be occupied
by the royal corpse. He was the father of the present
Khedive. Thence to a huge mosque which, according to our
guide, would never be completed. This mosque was begun
by the mother of Ismail Pasha, and is very rich in architec-
tural ornaments. There is another of Princess Twafidah
Hassan, which has quite recently been finished, with great
wealth of inlaid work of wood, ivory and mother-of-pearl.
Its architect, Mr. Parvis, is an Italian gentleman, who did
a great deal to resuscitate the old Egyptian art, which had
nearly been forgotten. The world should be very thankful
to him, especially Egypt, to which he has rendered inestim-
able service. The Sultan Hasan Mosque stands just across
the street ; its only merit is its size. The cornice is rather
pretty, but placed so high that one cannot see its details,
and the lofty flat walls look like those of a store-house for
grain. Inside, all was in great confusion. Then we went to
see " Howling Dervishes/' in a small house situated near the
Citadel. Their hall is in a horse-shoe form, a railing
surrounds the space in which the dervishes stand to howl,
and beyond it there are benches for visitors' use. When we
arrived a number of young men were standing in this
circular space, and at the far end there was a small raised
platform, on which a number of singers were standing, with
a middle-aged man who was, perhaps, the head of the party.
When the singers struck up, the dervishes kept time by
moving their heads, or bending their bodies downwards.
In course of time an old man with long hair took the centre
of the group, and began to oscillate his body frantically.
All this seems to be done for the amusement of Europeans ;
I doubt its being a part of their religion, as the persons who
took part in the affair were the reverse of sanctimonious,
but young and mischievous. One of them slapped another
by way of a joke. Then we visited the tombs of the Mam-
lukes, of which there is little noteworthy to record, except
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 269
that all the Mamlukes slaughtered by Mehemet All lie in
peace at this spot. Here is also the tomb of Ibrahim Pasha,
the stepson and successor of Mehemet Ali. In some of the
more important mosques one sees large carpets which travel
to Mecca and back. Richly embroidered rugs are sent there
yearly, and after a year are returned to Mohammedan
States, or sold for large sums of money. Many advanced
Egyptian ladies have adopted the European fashion ; they
wear stockings and high-heeled boots. Women of the popu-
lace wear blue linen or cotton dresses, and their red caps
look very pretty. Mr. Andrews and his wife dined with us ;
he is in the Government service and resides in Upper Egypt.
The city of Cairo is very busy ; at night I was kept awake
by carriages rolling in the streets, which was unusual, as I
am not disturbed by ordinary noises. At n a.m. on
October 29th, accompanied by Major Benn, I paid a visit to
the Earl of Cromer, who practically rules Egypt, though he
is simply styled " British Agent." He received us in his
library, which contains a great number of beautifully bound
books. These, he said, in course of conversation, were
mostly works of reference. He is one of the world's principal
personages, and has done wonders for Egypt. He very
kindly showed us the ball-room, which is spacious and
beautifully decorated ; and a veranda overlooking the Nile,
from which a lovely view is obtained. After taking leave of
Lord Cromer we drove to the great Museum which is still
under construction, but open to the public. It contains a
vast collection of antique objects ; one would require six
months to learn one's way about. The hieroglyphic writings
are numerous ; they contain the history of the country, and
some of them are 6,000 or 7,000 years old. The statues are
well executed, some bronze and wooden ones being especially
good, and their expression was life-like. There is a great
assortment of embalmed corpses, styled " mummies " ; the
method of preserving them is still a secret. Some of them
have not been unwrapped, but are still covered with the
cloth which people used to wear at that remote epoch, mostly
of silk. We were shown different departments containing
arms, vases and such like things ; lastly, a room in which
270 TRAVEL PICTURES
valuables are kept, displaying articles of gold, silver and
jewellery set with pearls and other precious stones, much
after the fashion which is seen in modern times. Another
hall contained canoes and boats used by people of those
days, identical in shape with our own. In one room we
saw animals embalmed as sacred ; their mummies were in
wonderful preservation. I was introduced to the Director
of the Museum, who very kindly showed us many curiosities
and gave us full explanations of them.
After luncheon Lord Cromer returned my visit, and we
sat talking on the terrace for some time. He served for
several years in India as Finance Minister, and previously as
Private Secretary to his cousin, the late Earl of Northbrook,
and was interested to learn my ideas on that country. In
his opinion the Indian Government changed its officers too
quickly ; he thought that a man should be left for several
years at least in a province in order to make himself
acquainted with the people and local conditions. After his
visit was over we drove to the Pyramids on a road which
lay across the Nile, over which there is only one good bridge ;
but the authorities think of constructing another. On the
other side of the river the road is well protected from the
sun by an avenue of Sir as trees. The country is quite flat
and fertilized by the inundations of the Nile, which covers
it with a fresh coating of silt every year. Some villages are
built upon islands. Malarial fever is very rife among
dwellers in the marshes ; it is high time for Government to
undertake a campaign against the disease-dealing mosquito.
The Pyramids looked magnificent with the sun behind them.
There are so many opinions as to their origin that it is not
an easy matter of which to give an off-hand explanation :
one's only impressions are those of size and perfect symmetry.
Then we gazed on the Sphinx, that object of world- wide
fame. It was perhaps an idol of the Egyptians, and when
the Mohammedans invaded the country such monuments
as this suffered severely at their hands. We mounted
donkeys here, and were photographed with the Sphinx in
the background and its recently excavated temple con-
structed of huge granite blocks. This stone was brought
A WATER-CARRIER
CAIRO, A MUSSULMAN GRAVEYARD
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 271
here from quarries 600 miles distant. We also went round
one of the pyramids. A man mounted to the summit and
came down in six and a half minutes. The height of this
pyramid is about 450 feet, and it is called after its royal
founder, Cheops.
After taking tea we returned to Cairo ; the weather was
perfect, the sky clear and the stars shone brilliantly ; a
gentle breeze was blowing, and the Nile glided by with scarce
a ripple on its surface ; the whole scene was unforgettable.
On reaching Shepherd's Hotel we dined, and then went to
an Arab, called " Egyptian," theatre to see a play styled
" Cruelty of Fathers." The scenery was very poor, and the
actors by no means good. Only one man played moderately
well ; he was a Sheikh Professor at the University, who is
himself a dramatist. The other actors simply repeated their
parts like so many parrots, without the slightest expression.
There was no accompaniment, and the songs were not unlike
Indian vocal music. In India people delight in seeing useless
and irrelevant matter on the stage, and much time is wasted
in these side-shows. I noticed the same thing in this Arabic
play. At its close some moving pictures were shown ; I
heard men in the audience shouting the name of the pictures
they wished to see ; but it was a poor show. We returned
to our hotel at i a.m.
On October 30th we sallied forth to make purchases at
different shops. At one we bought veils and a few table
cloths. We also saw the Scent Market, where 'itr, commonly
called " Otto of Roses," is sold. The street was very narrow,
and the place so dirty that, but for the scents, it would be
intolerable to visitors. We bought some 'itr and amber,
and at this place a shopkeeper offered us real Turkish coffee
mixed with amber, which was very highly flavoured, but too
strong for me. We then visited Mr. Parvis's shop, where
many antiques are displayed. The carpets are very good
indeed ; I had never seen such beautiful silk ones before.
Then we moved to another shop kept by an Indian ; I was
glad to see my countrymen carrying on a thriving business ;
I admired their courage in leaving India and coming to trade
in a foreign land. Nearly every man here had caste-marks
272 TRAVEL PICTURES
on his face. These marks are impressed in childhood,
and increase in size as the person grows older. There is a
curious custom here — a syce is not allowed to stand at the
back of the carriage, but must run before the horses to
keep the road clear. These syces carry long sticks in their
hands with tassels much longer than those of the common
people.
After lunch we drove to Heliopolis. On our way we passed
the Khedive's Palace, enclosed by a high wall and garden ;
it is not imposing from outside. We entered a garden
where there is a fig tree said to be 2,000 years old. People
allege that when the infant Jesus Christ and his family were
expelled from Palestine they rested under this tree, which
is therefore called the Virgin Mary's Tree. It still bears
fruit and looks its reputed age. A gentleman who accom-
panied us said that the Egyptian fig tree yields the best and
strongest wood. After having been cut down it is laid in
mud, and allowed to remain there until a very offensive
odour comes from it ; and after this treatment the wood
never goes bad nor is eaten by worms. At this place we
bought some oranges and figs. Then we drove to the site of
Heliopolis, the " City of the Sun." It is marked by an
ancient obelisk, all the rest of its antiquities having been
removed to other countries. This obelisk, which has hiero-
glyphic writings, is 66 feet high and surrounded with trees.
The fields hereabouts produce heavy crops of maize. Our
next visit was to an ostrich farm, which is not far from the
railway station. It is stocked with 1,400 ostriches, all bred
here. Some were pointed out which were twenty-five years
old. The male ostrich has black, the female grey plumes ;
and the coveted white feathers are taken from the tails.
A hen ostrich will lay thirty eggs in rapid succession, but up
to the age of two years it is impossible to tell the bird's sex.
They are kept in a " corral," enclosed by a wall 8 feet high
made of unbaked bricks, and live on grain and vegetables.
This farm stands on the threshold of the African Desert, a
boundless stretch of hillocky sand. We made a few purchases
of ostrich plumes and of eggs. On returning to the hotel I
had a visit from Professor Nimr, Editor of the newspaper
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 273
Mukattam. He is really an able and interesting man ;
Major Benn and I had a long talk with him about Egypt
and her future. He said that Lord Cromer had worked
immense good to the country, and that, if the present rate of
progress continued for twenty years, Egypt would be in
quite a different condition. The Egyptians suffer terribly
from ophthalmia, and a considerable number of the common
people squint. Some attribute these maladies to inter-
marriage with too close relations. If so, the Hindus, who
have condemned such marriages, must have done so for
some good reason. But the swarms of flies which settle on
the children's faces and defile the food are enough to account
for the prevalence of eye diseases.
On the morning of October 3ist we were engaged in buying
photographs and postcards. Mr. William Basset, an Ameri-
can gentleman of Boston, paid me a visit ; he told me that
he was going to India in a few months' time, and I assured
him that I should be glad to welcome him at my place if he
cared to leave the beaten track. Our train left the station
at ii a.m., and we went as far as Benha on the line by which
we had reached Cairo. After an hour's run we began to
travel at right angles to the former line, and at 2 p.m.
arrived at Ismailia, a fairly large town. The country is not
so rich as that which adjoins the Nile. From Kantara a
fresh-water canal runs to Port Said, and a large fresh-water
lake is situated between them. We reached our destination,
Port Said, at 3.20 and put up at the Savoy Hotel, from the
balcony of which one could see a procession of steamers
passing through the canal, and the S.S. " India " taking
in coal for the journey to Marseilles. We have begun to
pack for India, as the " Egypt " will call here to-morrow
afternoon.
We had made no programme for the morning of November
ist, so everyone of us was at liberty to do what he wished.
I went for a walk, taking Dr. Ramlal with me, as far as the
statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps, which stands at the mouth
of the harbour. It is of bronze and beautifully executed.
There were ships from many countries lying in the harbour,
and a stream of people pouring to and from them. When a
274 TRAVEL PICTURES
steamer arrives the port becomes very lively, and, as every
ship which comes here takes coal, there are hundreds of
people who earn their bread by conveying it on board.
These men have sometimes to coal four or five ships without
ceasing labour, but they earn good wages, which reconcile
them to living in a state of perpetual grime. If some
chemist discovered soap which would remove coal dirt at
one wash he would make a fortune. Some small Russian
cruisers are expected to pass through the canal shortly. The
shopkeepers of Port Said have a bad time of it. They must
sit in their shops from daybreak till midnight, as their
presence is essential when a steamer arrives at the port,
and they cannot tell beforehand when customers may come
to buy things. My Alexandria friend, Chitty Bey, Director
of Customs, has very kindly sent me two samples of the
cotton seed which is grown in Egypt, with the mature cotton
produced by it, in order that I may compare the result with
our Indian growths. In the afternoon, while sitting in
Dr. Randal's balcony, I saw in the distance the " Egypt "
coming into the harbour. She looked very majestic with
her two black funnels, as she anchored near the P. & O.
office. I took a photograph of this mighty ship as coolies
were at work coaling her. In the afternoon we bought some
deck chairs. The shopkeepers here are really greater
knaves than any I have encountered. Immediately they
see a passenger coming down the gangway of a steamer they
put off in small boats, and begin to shout the names of the
articles which they have for sale. No sooner has a visitor
landed than he is surrounded by match-sellers and boot-
cleaners, and on stepping into the street the shopkeepers
come from their dens, stand in his path, and worry him to
enter their shop. In this way the poor visitor has no peace ;
and everything is very dear, as the shopkeepers ask very
high prices. I think that the authorities should put a stop
to these practices, or else, in course of time, these harpies will
seize visitors by the hand and drag them into their shops.
Englishmen treat such people with scanty respect ; shop-
touts and carriage drivers are especially condemned, and
an Anglo-Indian never hesitates to use bad language in
CAIRO, A STREET SCENE
A MARKET-PLACE
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 275
addressing them. We dare not behave thus on the Continent,
but it is hardly fair to blame Englishmen for this conduct, as
the provocation they receive is great. In the evening I went
to see our cabin on board the " Egypt," where I was glad to
meet Kemp, our former cabin steward. While we were on
board coolies were coaling the ship, hence every window and
port-hole was shut, and she looked quite deserted. The mail
boat is expected at 7 p.m. to-morrow from Brindisi.
On November 2nd we heard that the " Egypt " would
leave Port Said at noon, but this morning Major Benn told us
that she would start three hours earlier. I therefore rose
betimes, and was ready by 8.30. The hotel people were
very late in taking the luggage to the ship, and we had to
see everything off ourselves. Mr. Tarrel, the Collector of
Customs, kindly sent his boat for us, and 9 a.m. saw us safely
installed on the " Egypt/'
We weighed anchor at 9.30, and soon lost sight of Port
Said. It has but one building, which looks imposing from
the harbour. The fresh-water canal runs parallel to that
of Suez, and enables people to display a little vegetation
near their homes. On the other side lies Lake Menzaleh,
consisting of brackish water, which is of no benefit to the
country. At half-past three we approached the Station of
Ferdinand, where the canal has been cut through hard stone,
and at 4.50 reached Ismailia, where we were held up to
allow another ship to pass. At this place a palace was built
to lodge the Empress Eugenie of France when she came to
join in the inauguration of the canal in 1869, but it now
belongs to the English. There are some trees near the town,
and the road which leads to the palace is lined with avenues.
Their foliage seems intensely green, owing perhaps to its
contrast with the surrounding desert. Steamers are not
allowed to travel faster than six miles an hour in the canal,
lest their wash should cause erosion to the banks.
On the morning of November 3rd bearings were taken at
7 a.m., and we found we had travelled 134 miles from Suez.
That day we were going down the Red Sea. It has a bad
reputation for unbearable heat, but the morning was perfect,
a nice head wind was blowing and the sea quite calm.
276 TRAVEL PICTURES
Towards evening, however, the thermometer rose ; but the
temperature was endurable, thanks to two electric fans in
our cabin. It was a great relief to have these appliances.
Mr. Nawaoji Pest on ji Vakil was on board, also his nephew.
I was glad to see them again. Mr. Vakil presented Mahbub
Ali Bey, a boy of fifteen, who is a son of the Commander-in-
Chief of Hyderabad, and being educated at the Forest Hill
House School, near the Crystal Palace. He also introduced
his niece, a girl of eleven, who had a sweet, childish face.
Rich Indians should follow his example if they wish their
sons to be really educated. Mahbub Ali is a good boy, with
pleasant manners and full of life. He asked me to write
my name in his album, which I gladly did. In the Red Sea
one seldom loses sight of the land. At 10 a.m. we saw some
lofty mountains on the African coast, all very barren. Here
I made the acquaintance of a lady who, with her husband,
Major Reid, was on her way to India for a cold weather
tour. I invited them to Jhalrapatan, if they ever found
themselves in my neighbourhood.
On rising on the morning of November 4th we found
ourselves still in the Red Sea and out of sight of land ; two
or three steamers passed us in the distance. The day was
perfectly calm, but terribly warm ; I thought this must
surely be the worst day, and that on the morrow it would
cool down. Sports were held in the afternoon. The first
was " Threading the Needle," the second a " Telegram "
competition. In the latter a word was given — for instance
" Africans," and every competitor had to write a telegram
using the letters composing it as initials. The lady who won
the first prize wrote : " Arrived from Riviera ill ; cannot
attend night service " ; the second lady, " Annie fainted
right in captain's arms ; nobody shocked." I should
have given her the first prize, for her attempt caused great
amusement. After dinner there was an auction on deck
of the numbers drawn in the lottery on the ship's course.
Towards evening a light breeze always sprung up, which
was a great relief ; one had an opportunity for reading
books, which are tabu when the thermometer marks 90° or
upwards.
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 277
We were still in the Red Sea on the morning of November
5th, and it was as hot as ever ; but for the electric fans life
would have been unbearable. The sea was rather rough,
and our ship pitched, but fortunately not much. That
afternoon sports took place, in which both ladies and gentle-
men participated. The first was the " Whistling Coon/* in
which each gentleman who competed was given an envelope
enclosing a scrap of paper with the name of some tune in-
scribed on it. Competitors had to run 50 yards, then stand
in front of their respective lady-partners and whistle the
tune, whilst the lady had to guess its name and write it on
a piece of paper, with which her comrade had to run back
to the starting-place. Then there was an " Egg-and-spoon "
race, in which only ladies took part.
November 6th found us still in the Red Sea, but a light
breeze made the weather somewhat less oppressive. We
could see land on both sides, and shortly afterwards passed
Perim, where the S.S. " China " went down. The P. & O.
Company refloated her, in order to keep up their prestige ;
they could have built a new ship with the money spent on
raising the wreck. Before we reached Aden we passed some
hills destitute of even a blade of grass. The whole peninsula
seems barren, and has no attraction of any sort for a foreign
nation, except that Aden commands the southern entrance
to the Red Sea, which is a main artery of communication
between Europe and Asia. We could see a signal-house
perched on a lofty hill, and at its foot, as well as on other
hill slopes, the lines of the British troops, and formidable
batteries to boot. During the summer Aden is a furnace,
but it is said to be very healthy. The mail steamer
" Taurus " arrived to receive and deliver post-bags, followed
by other boats containing swarthy natives of Aden, but
no divers as of yore. Government has put a stop to diving
for coins from these boats, owing to the presence of voracious
sharks.
We cast anchor at 4 p.m. ; I did not land, as the few
sights would require more time than we had to spare. After
a stay of three hours, our ship continued her voyage to
Bombay. At dusk the lights of Aden looked beautiful
278 TRAVEL PICTURES
against a dark outline of hills in the background and shedding
their reflection on the smooth waters of the harbour. In a
few minutes we entered the Indian Ocean.
I made the acquaintance of Mr. Blakesby, who was sta-
tioned at Mount Abu some time ago. He complained that
transfers were too frequent in the Political Department,
and that officers rarely remained long enough to make them-
selves acquainted with local affairs. I afterwards con-
versed with a gentleman who owns an estate fifty square
miles in area in the Terai of Nepal. He told me that irriga-
tion is essential there for raising good crops, and that his
father-in-law had done much to improve his estate, which
possessed a perfect system of canals. On getting up the
next morning we could still see the mountains of Aden in
the distance. The passengers' committee had approved of
my giving prizes for a " Book Dinner." It was now much
cooler and very pleasant. A nice breeze had been blowing
without disturbing the surface of the Indian Ocean, which
stretches grandly towards the horizon on all sides. It was
as calm as when we crossed it on our voyage to Europe last
April. In the afternoon we saw some flying fish, and watched
porpoises leaping with much grace and beauty. Sports
began soon after luncheon. The children's race was very
funny, owing to the eagerness of the tiny competitors. The
next item was a potato race, which caused equal amusement,
as the boys and girls, while running, had to pick up potatoes
set in a row, one by one, place each in a basket, and carry
it to the starting point. Then came competitions for the
grown-ups. Closed envelopes, in which were slips of paper
bearing the name of some animal, were offered to each man.
He took one at random, tore it open, and then had to run to
a black-board and draw thereon a picture of the animal whose
name was written on the piece of paper. His partner, a lady,
had to guess the creature depicted. Each competitor was
timed from the start to finish, and he who took the least time,
and whose partner was most ingenious in interpreting his
efforts, won the first prize. Next there was an " Arithmetic
Competition," managed as the last, except that the envelopes
contained figures which the lady partner had to add up.
EGYPT, AND HOME AGAIN 279
There were dead and final heats, the winner of which carried
off the prize.
There are few Indians who could take part in such compe-
titions, not to mention our ladies, who seldom know whether
two and two make four or eight ! My unhappy countrymen,
who cling to ancient ways, while Japan has thrown off her
mediaeval slough in one generation ! What is the boasted
progress of India compared to hers ? One night there was
a fancy dress ball for the second-class passengers ; I went
there and enjoyed it immensely. A lady representing the
S.S. " Egypt " got the prize, but other costumes were excel-
lent, considering the limited resources of 'board-ship life.
November 8th found us still in the Indian Ocean, and
enjoying the calm weather which is usual here except during
the monsoon. The same afternoon we saw some flying fish,
which might be mistaken for birds when seen from a distance.
A school of porpoises sprang out of the water in line, and kept
alongside our ship for some way ; I am told that they some-
times play round the bows of a steamer at full speed. I wit-
nessed a tug-of-war between single and married ladies ; the
celibates won easily ; among the married team Mrs. Reid did
her best, but she was not supported by her partners. For
my " Book Dinner," which then took place, some of the
ladies had thought of clever devices for expressing the name
of a book. The first prize, however, was awarded to Mr.
Blakeney, who wore two dice with sixes — the highest possible
throw — representing a book called " Bound to Win." I
presented the prizes.
The next day was very fine indeed, and the sea like a
lake. In the afternoon there were more sports. A " Potato
Race " for ladies was very amusing for spectators, but
hard work for the fair competitors. Later on a game of
" Are you there ? " began. Two men, who were blind-
folded, lay in pairs on deck, face downwards, each holding
the other's left hand, with a funnel made of newspaper in
their right hand. At a given signal one of the pair asked
the other, " Are you there ? " The other replied, " Yes,"
and moved his head away, and then the man who put the
question had to hit him with the newspaper. In this way
280 TRAVEL PICTURES
ear and nerves are trained, which is a very good thing. After
dinner our captain proposed the King's health, and this
toast was drunk with due honour and respect. These
Englishmen are very loyal and faithful to their King ;
nothing would induce such men to act contrary to his in-
terest. Here is a lesson for us Indians who have no father-
land as yet. A fancy dress ball took place on deck. A
" Norwegian Country Girl " took the first prize, a " Lemon
Squash " and " Toy Shop " shared the second. A few other
costumes, such as a " Barber's Shop," were worthy of notice,
but the whole affair was lacking in "go." The fancy dress
ball got up by the second-class passengers was far more
lively.
We were nearing India on November loth ; though she
has not advanced as far in the path of civilization as some of
the countries I have seen, still she is my home, and I am glad
to see her once more after an absence of seven months. The
only sorrow is that my dear father is not alive to welcome
me, for then I should have enjoyed my return much more ;
but it will be a delight to see my mother again, who has been
seriously ill during my absence. The Rani Saheba will be
pleased to see me back, as will our darling baby.
After dinner Mrs. Rowe made a speech, in which she
thanked the gentlemen on board for getting up sports on the
ladies' behoof, and very kindly mentioned my name as one
of the promoters, whereon the other members of the commit-
tee replied briefly, thanking their fair colleague. The voyage
has really been a success hardly qualified by the Red Sea
heat. Many of our passengers must have regretted the
peace and absence of responsibility of sea life, which ended
as we approached Bombay.
INDEX
ABDUL GHAFUR KHAN, of the
author's suite, i and passim.
Aberdeen, arrival at, 92 ; granite
the characteristic industry of,
id. ; great fish-market, 93.
Abbott, Colonel and Mrs., reception
by, 114-15, 197-8.
Advertisements, excessive in Great
Britain, 92 ; fondness of Euro-
peans for, 175.
Alexandra, Her Majesty Queen,
author presented to, by King
Edward VII., 40 ; recognizes him
at the People's Palace, in ; in-
terest taken by, in the poor of
London, 64, 112.
Alexandria, arrival at, 262 ; ex-
cavations inspected, 264 ; the
Khedive's Palace, 264 ; Pompey's
Pillar, 264 ; visit to Chitty Bey's
school, id.
Amir Ali, Rt. Hon. Syed, the
author meets, 3.
Amsterdam, arrival at, 125 ; aqua-
rium with museum attached, 126 ;
carts drawn by dogs, 129 ; dia-
mond-polishing, 127-8 ; the Jews'
quarter, 126; synagogue, 128;
Royal Palace, 128-9 ; Ryks
Museum, 125 ; panorama of Jeru-
salem, 126.
Athens, arrival at, 251 ; visit to the
Acropolis, 254-5 ; to the British
School of Archaeology, 259 ; to
the National Museum, 255, 6, 8 ;
kindness of the late Sir Francis
Elliot, British Minister, 251, 257 ;
the King's Palace, 252 ; other
places of interest, 251-4 ; the
new Stadium, 252 ; ancient
temples, 254-5 ; a Turkish mos-
que, 256.
Austria, Emperor of , visit to Marien-
bad of, 155.
BALMORAL, visit to, 93.
Ballecocq, M., accompanies the
author to the Saltpetriere Hos-
pital, 209.
Barcelona, arrival at, 19 ; cemetery
visited, 21 ; impressions of, 19-21.
Barucha, Mr., of Bombay, acquaint-
ance made of, 6, 8.
Basset, Mr. William, of Boston,
U.S.A., visit from, 273.
Bauduin, Lt.-Col., inventor of a
method of producing artificial
rain, visit to, 208.
Belfast, arrival at, 100 ; visit to
linen manufactory, 101 ; to Har-
land & Wolff's shipbuilding yard,
100, 101.
Bellew, Mr. Kyrle, entertains the
author on a house-boat, 75.
Benn, Major R. A., C.I.E., deputed
by the Indian Government to
accompany the author in Europe,
6, 7 ; joins him at Port Said, 10 ;
obligations of the author to, 24 and
passim ; entertains the author
to lunch, 71 ; with Mrs. R. A.
Benn accompanies him to the
theatre, 196 ; ascent of Vesuvius
by, 231.
Beresford, Admiral Lord Charles,
gives the author luncheon on
board H.M.S. " Caesar," 116.
Berlin, arrival at, 140 ; Palace of
the Kaiser Wilhelm I., 142 ; im-
pressions of, 141-2 ; the first taxi-
meter seen in, 143.
Berne, arrival at, 184 ; sights of,
184-5.
Bernhardt, Mme. Sarah, her glorious
voice, 37.
Berwick, Lord, Military Attach^ to
British Embassy at Paris, meeting
with, 193.
Birdwood, Mr. Herbert, I.C.S. (the
late), visit paid to, 45-6.
Birmingham, arrival at, 109 ; visit
to the Small Arms Factory, id.
Blakesby, Mr., the author meets,
278.
281
282
INDEX
Bombay, the author leaves for
Europe, i ; returns to, 280.
Bordeaux, arrival at, 30 ; St.
Michael's Church, 31 ; wine-
cellars of Calvert & Co., 31.
Bourchier, Mrs. (" Violet Van-
brugh "), introduction to, 194.
Brindisi, arrival at, 245 ; the Liver-
pool of ancient Rome, id. ;
author leaves for Greece, 246.
Brodrick, Rt. Hon. St. John (Vis-
count Midleton), interesting con-
versation with, 57.
Brown-Potter, Mrs., visited at
Maidenhead, 75.
Bruce, Major and Mrs., called upon,
47-8, 55.
Brussels, arrival at, 200 ; Battle-
field of Waterloo, 201-2 ; impres-
sions of, 200-3 »' manufacture of
lace, 203.
Budapest, arrival at, 169 ; beautiful
situation of, id. ; Royal Palace,
171 ; grain elevators, 171-2 ;
Parliament House of Hungary,
169-70.
Buddhism, interest taken by many
English people in, 66.
" CAESAR," H.M.S., the author en-
tertained to luncheon on board,
116.
Cairo, arrival at, 266 ; Moham-
medan University, its defects,
267 ; museum, 269-70 ; Howling
Dervishes, 268 ; shops, 271 ;
Egyptian Theatre, 271 ; visit
from Professor Nimr, 272-3 ;
visit to Lord Cromer, 269 ; re-
turned, 270.
Calvert, Messrs., of Bordeaux, wine-
cellars of, visit to, 31.
Carlsbad, excursion to, accompanied
by Major Levita, 162-3.
Charles, Miss Lallie, the author sits
for his portrait in the studio of,
79-80.
Chatsworth, seat of the Duke of
Devonshire, visit to, 105-6.
Chingford, visit to, at an " outing "
given to his constituents by
Major Evans-Gordon, 112.
Chitty Bey, Director of Customs in
Egypt, hospitality at Cairo, 262-4;
Arabic school founded by, 264 ;
sends the author samples of
'Egyptian cotton, 274.
Cintra, impressions of, 26 ; visit to
a Moorish castle, and beauty of
surroundings, 26-7.
Cologne, arrival at, 203 ; the great
Cathedral, id. ; Eau de Cologne,
id.
Cook & Son, Messrs. T., comfort of
travellers ensured by, 32.
Copenhagen, arrival at, 138 ; visit
to picture gallery, 138 ; to an
English cemetery, 140 ; call at
the Royal Palace, 139.
Copleston, Most Rev. R., Bishop of
Calcutta, shows the author over
Westminster Abbey, 54-5.
Corfu, impressions of, 247-9 ; a
collection of royal autographs,
248 ; British sailors at, 249.
Cork, arrival at, 103 ; visit to Mrs.
Croft, 104.
Cram, Messrs., visit to calico-print-
ing works at Glasgow, 98-9.
Cromer, the Earl of, British Agent
and Consul-General in Egypt,
visits exchanged with at Cairo,
269-70 ; his splendid work for
Egypt, 273.
Crystal Palace, the, visit to, 59-60.
Culloden, Battlefield of, visited, 94.
Customs, special facilities given by
authorities of, on Spanish frontier,
19 ; in Holland, 124 ; Germany,
132 ; France, 187-8 ; Egypt, 275.
DERBY, the, horse-race run at
Epsom, a great national festival,
attended by the author, 52-3.
Desgraz, Mr. C. L., First Secretary
of Legation at Athens, 251.
Dewar, Professor Sir James, attends
lecture at Royal Institution given
by, 69-70.
Dieppe, impressions of, 191 ; the
author entertained at, by Major
Evans-Gordon and Lady Tweed-
dale, 191-2.
Ditchfield, Rev. J. Watts, Vicar of
St. James the Less, escorts the
author in a tour of inspection in
East End of London, 60-2.
Dublin, arrival at, 102 ; the Phrenix
Park, 102 ; impressions of, 102-3.
EASTBOURNE, impressions of, a
model seaside resort, 197 ; enter-
tained by Colonel Abbott at, id.
Edinburgh, arrival at, 89 ; the
Castle, 90 ; Holyrood Palace, id. ;
the Nelson Monument, 91 ; the
Old Town, id.
Edward VIL, His late Majesty King,
author's reception by, at Buck-
ingham Palace, 40 ; recognized
INDEX
283
and kindly greeted by, at Marien-
bad, 155, 161, 164 ; His Majesty
at Marienbad, 150-2, 155-6, 161,
164.
Education, interest taken by Eng-
lish ladies in matters of, 66.
Egerton, Sir Edwin, K.C.B., British
Minister at Madrid, and Lady,
hospitality of, 24.
" Egypt," S.S., P. & O., voyage on,
Bombay to Marseilles, 1-12 ; re-
turn journey on, 274-280 ; life
on board, 2-12, 276-80.
Elliot, Mr., late of Baroda, acquaint-
ance made of, 65.
Elliot, Sir Francis, K.C.B., the late,
Minister at Athens, hospitality to
the author, 257, 259.
Elliott, Sir Charles, K.C.S.I., the
late, author attends garden party
given by, 81.
England, first impressions of, 39 ;
prevalence of " tipping " in, 52 ;
cost of railway travelling in, 72 ;
prevalence of advertisements in,
92 ; hospitality dying out in, 113 ;
leaving of " p.p.c." cards, 123 ;
value of punctuality, 232.
Etiquette, English and Continental
rules of, differences between, 24.
FIFE, the late Duke of, introduction
to, in.
Fontainebleau, Palace of, visit to,
207-8
Frogmore, Royal Mausoleum visited
and wreath placed on tomb of
Her late Majesty Queen Victoria,
74-
GENEVA, arrival at, 185 ; Rous-
seau's Island, id. ; University
and other public buildings, 186-7 '>
Ariana Museum, 187 ; CMteau of
the financier Rothschild, id. ;
chocolate manufactory, id.
Germany, tour in, 132-146 ; drink-
ing customs of university students
in, 144.
Glasgow, arrival at, 98 ; visit to
Messrs. Kay's emporium, id. ; to
a great calico-printing works, id. ;
to glass works, id. ; its beautiful
parks, 99.
Gordon, Major Evans-, and Mar-
chioness of Tweeddale, their great
kindness to the author, 47-8, 51,
66, iii-i2, 191-2.
Gore, Col., meeting with, at Marien-
bad, 158.
Gosselin, Sir Martin, the late,
British Minister at Lisbon, and
Lady Gosselin, their hospitality
to the author, 26-9.
Greece, tour in, 247-61 ; author
dines with the British Minister,
and meets T.R.H. the Crown
Prince and Princess and other
notables, 257-8 ; need of railway
communication with Europe, 258.
Griffiths, Mrs., entertains the author
at Richmond, 123 ; her vener-
able aunt, id. ; accompanies the
author to the theatre, 196.
Gutz wilier, M. Charles, accompanied
to the Saltpetriere Hospital by,
209.
HAFFKINE, Professor Waldemar,
C.I.E., author meets, 207.
Hamburg, arrival at, 132 ; im-
pression of this great port, 133 ;
monster steam-vessels, 133-4 »
the Hamburg- Amerika, the largest
steamship company in the world,
133 ; vast docks and grain ele-
vators, 134 ; public buildings,
135 ; the Crematorium, id. ; poor
condition of the horses, 136.
Hamilton, Rt. Hon. Lord George,
late Secretary of State for India,
interesting conversation with, 79.
Hampton Court, visit to, 45.
Harland & Wolff, Messrs., visit to
shipbuilding yard of, at Belfast,
IOO-I.
Hatchards, Messrs., booksellers, of
London, visit to their great ware-
houses, 52.
Heath, Major, the author meets at
the works of Messrs. Vickers,
Sons & Maxim, 84-5.
Hinduism, interest taken in by
English people, 66.
Holland, tour in, 124-32 ; impres-
sions of, 125 ; Ryks Museum,
Amsterdam, id. ; national cus-
toms of, 130 ; women's dress, id.
Holland, Hon. Sydney, conducts
the author over the London Hos-
pital, 63-5 ; shows him the Vic-
toria and Albert Docks, 72-3.
Howard, Mr. and Mrs. Mowbray,
the author meets, 247, 254 ; and
lunches with, 255.
Huntley & Palmer's biscuit factory,
Reading, hurried inspection of,
77-
INTERLAKEN, arrival at, 180.
284
INDEX
Inverness, arrival at, 94 ; love of
gardening a British trait, 95.
Ireland visited, 100-104 ; the ex-
pression " Emerald Isle " worthily
applied to her, 103.
Italy, tour in, 212-46 ; formalities
of travelling in, as compared
with England, 216 ; public letter
writers, 227 ; bad management
of railways, 231-2, 244.
JERSEY, the Earl of, and Lady,
author attends garden party
given by, at Osterley Park, 110 ;
meets the author again at Sion
House, 112.
Jesurum & Co., Messrs., of Venice,
lace manufactory of, visited,
238-9.
KAY, Mr. ARTHUR, visit to emporium
of, at Glasgow, 98.
Kemball, Col. and Mrs., visit to, 76.
Kew Gardens, visit to, 45-6.
Krans, Dr., of Marienbad, Institute
of, visited, 160.
LANDOR, Mr. A. SAVAGE, the author
meets, 70, 80, m, 199.
Langfier, Messrs., Ltd., studio of,
visited, 40 ; paint the author in
miniature, 51 ; take his photo-
graphic portrait, 79.
Leigh, Hon. Mr. and Mrs. Dudley,
lend the author their opera box,
119; and entertain him at lun-
cheon, 1 20.
Leslie, Major, the author meets at
works of Vickers, Sons & Maxim,
84-5.
Levita, Major, the author meets,
161-3.
Lisbon, arrival at, 26 ; hospitality
and kindness of the British Mini-
ster and Lady Gosselin, 26-9 ;
the author has an audience of the
late King of Portugal, 28 ; visits
the Museum, 28 ; a series of car-
riage accidents in, 29 ; politeness
of the Portuguese peasantry, id.
Liverpool, arrival at, 85 ; visits to
the Docks and Seaforth, 86;
Sports at Merchant Taylors'
School, the author gives a chal-
lenge cup, id.\ visit to New Brigh-
ton, 87.
London, arrivals in, 38, no, 194;
Alhambra, 78 ; Apollo Theatre,
54 ; Army and Navy Co-opera-
tive Society's Stores, 41 ; Batter-
sea Park, 114 ; Bank of England;
67-8 ; the British Museum, 59 •
Buckingham Palace, court at»
40-1 ; State Ball, 62 ; cabs,
method of summoning, 42 ; Col-
lege of Arms, 55 ; Clarence House
(H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught),
visit to, 1 13; Covent Garden Opera
House, 119; Criterion Theatre,
77 ; drinking fountains and
troughs, 44 ; Duke of York's
Theatre, 81 ; Earl's Court Ex-
hibition, iio-n ; East End, visit
to, 60-2 ; fire-alarms in the
streets, 43 ; Fire Brigade Head-
quarters, visit to, 120-2 ; Gaiety
Theatre, 79 ; Garrick Theatre,
194 ; Graphic, visit to offices of,
70-1 ; Guildhall, Earl Curzon of
Kedleston made free of city at
the, 117-18 ; Hippodrome visited,
50-1 ; His Majesty's Theatre,
56-7, 80, 198 ; Horse Guards,
changing of guard at, 47 ;
Houses of Parliament, 51-2 ; im-
pressions of London and its
neighbourhood, 39, 65, 81, 119,
1 20 ; London Hospital visited,
63-5 ; Lord Mayor, luncheon with
the, 55-6; again, 118; Madame
Tussaud's waxwork exhibition,
56 ; Marlborough House, visit to,
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales at,
80 ; Messenger Boys' Brigade,
41-2 ; Mint, the Royal, visited,
53-4 ; Mudie's Circulating Lib-
rary, 56 ; National Gallery, 50 ;
New Theatre, 75 ; Northbrook
Society's rooms, reception at,
58 ; open spaces and parks, 65 ;
Paddington Workhouse visited,
76-7 ; Palace Theatre, 122-3 ;
People's Palace, flower show at,
in-12 ; police arrangements, ex-
cellence of, 42 ; Prince of Wales's
Theatre, 52, 196 ; Royal Aca-
demy Exhibition, 62 ; Royal
Albert Hall Theatre, 113 ; Royal
Military Tournament, 46-7 ;
Royal Victoria and Albert Docks;
visited, 72 ; Shaftesbury Theatre,
72 ; Stanford & Co.'s great em-
porium of maps visited, 123 ; St.
Paul's Cathedral, 49-50; Sweet-
ing's Fish Restaurant, 50 ; Tower
of London and its overwhelming
associations, 58-9 ; Victoria and
Albert Museum, South Kensing-
ton, 57; Wallace Collection,
Hertford House, 78; Westmin-
INDEX
285
ster Abbey, 49, 54 ; Westminster
Hall, 51 ; Williams Typewriter
Company, 49, 123 ; Zoological
Gardens, Regent's Park, 48.
Lucerne, arrival at, 176 ; Glacier
Garden, 176-7 ; Historical Mu-
seum and Pacificism, 178-9 ;
Hofkirche, 176 ; the " Lion "
Monument, 177.
MACKINTOSH & Co., Messrs., rubber
factory of, Manchester, 108-9.
Madan, Professor Falconer, Bod-
ley's Librarian, Oxford, 195.
Madrid, arrival at, 21 ; bull-fight,
24-5 ; cathedrals and churches,
22 ; hospitality received from Sir
Edwin Egerton, H.B.M.'s Am-
bassador, and Lady Egerton,
23-4 ; paintings at, 23 ; Public
Library, id.
Maidenhead, Mrs. Brown-Potter's
villa at, 75 ; visit to a house-
boat, id. ; the Thames Hotel, 78.
Manchester, arrival at, 105 ; Mid-
land Hotel, described, 106-7 >
Mackintosh & Co.'s great rubber
factory, 108-9 ; spinning mills
visited, 107-8.
Marienbad, arrival at, 146 ; baths
and water-cure at, 146-50 ; King
Edward VII. arrives at, 150 ;
meets the author at Caf6 Pod-
horn, 155 ; Princess Parlaghy's
exhibition of paintings, 156 ;
Baroness Suttner's address " The
Fight against War," 156-7 ; Ru-
bezal Caf£, the author gives a
dinner at, 157 ; visit of the
Austrian Emperor, 154-5,
Marseilles, arrival at, 12 ; " Bridge
of False Money," 16 ; Museum,
15, 1 6 ; Notre Dame de la Garde,
1 8 ; Palais de Longchamps, 17-
18 ; Sainte Marie Ma j cure, 19 ;
splendours of the H6tel du Louvre
et de la Paix, 13 ; strike pro-
cessions, 15.
Maxim, Messrs. Vickers, Sons &,
visit to the steel works of, Shef-
field, 84-5.
Metchnikoff, Professor, interview
with, 205.
Milan, arrival at, 212 ; Cathedral,
213-4 ; Poldi-Pezzoli Museum,
214 ; Sant' Ambrogio, 214-5 ;
Theatre, 214.
Mueller, M. and Mme., of Paris,
invite the author to their box at
the Opera, 204.
Munich, arrival at, 173 ; colossal
statue of " Bavaria " id. ; the
English Garden, ill-kept, 174 ;
Royal Court Brewery, id. ; Royal
Palace, 175 ; Herr Wagner's
house, 175.
NAPLES, arrival at, 225 ; Aquarium,
id. ; some of its 365 churches,
226 ; Lazzarone, incorrigible men-
dicants, 226 ; Museum, 227-8 ;
public letter- writers, 227 ; Royal
Palace, 231.
Needham, Mr., late Commissioner
of Nagpur, now of Messrs. Vickers,
Sons & Maxim, meets the author
at their works, 84.
Nimr, Professor, editor of the Mu-
kattam, Cairo, visits the author,
272-3.
Northumberland, the Duke of, in-
vites the author to a garden
party, 112.
ONKAR, attendant of the author,
i and passim.
Ott, Dr., attends the author at
Marienbad, 146, 149-50.
Oxford, arrival at, 195 ; Bodleian
Library, id. ; Brasenose College,
id. ; Christchurch, 196 ; Mag-
dalen College, 195-6.
PARIS, arrivals at, 32, 188, 192, 204
Church of St. Germain- Auxerrois,
189 ; Cluny Museum, 37 ; Com6-
die Fran9aise, 34 ; Eiffel Tower
ascended, 34-5 ; Gobelins ta-
pestry, 205 ; Longchamps Races,
33-4, 190-1 ; the Louvre and its
art collections, 36 ; the Morgue,
37 ; National Library, 37 ; Notre
Dame, id. ; the Grand Opera,
190, 204 ; the Pantheon, 190 ;
the Pasteur Institute, its wonder-
ful work, and vivisection at,
205-7 > Petit Journal, offices
visited, 193-4 •' poor quarters
compared with those of London,
189 ; Saltpetriere Hospital, 209-
10 ; St. Cloud, a ruin, 36 ; tea
rooms, 208-9 ; the Trocad6ro,
1 88 ; Versailles, its Palace and
Gardens, 35.
Parlaghy, Princess L., meets the
author at Marienbad, 150 ; enter-
tains him at dinner, 153 ; her
exhibition of paintings, 156 ;
meets the author at dinner at the
Rubezal Cafe, 157 ; paints his
286
INDEX
portrait in State robes, 160 ;
gives a farewell dinner to him,
163.
Patras, arrival at, 250 ; poor hotel
accomodation, id. ; the author
received by Mr. Wood, H.B.M.'s
Consul, id.
Pawnbrokers in England, slang re-
lating to, 81.
Piraeus, the harbour of, 259.
Pisa, arrival at, 216 ; Baptistery,
217; Campo Santo, id.; Cathe-
dral, 216-17 ; Leaning Tower,
217 ; Museum, 217.
Pompeii, visit to ruins of, 228-9.
Port Said, arrivals at, 9-10, 273.
Potsdam, arrival at, 142 ; Church
and Tomb of Frederick the Great,
id. ; Palace of Sans-Souci, gardens,
dogs' graves, historic windmill,
143-
Probyn, Rt. Hon. Sir Dighton, a
Mutiny hero, visit to, at Bucking-
ham Palace, 80.
Pyramids of Egypt, visited, 270-1.
RAJ PIPLA, visit paid to H.H. the
Maharaja of, in England, 77.
Reading, visit to, 66, 77.
Rew, Mrs., gives the author tea at
a Ladies' Club, 57-8; accompanies
him to the Garrick Theatre, 194.
Rigi, ascent of, by mountain rail-
way, 177-8.
Rome, arrival at, 218 ; the Cata-
combs, 224 ; the Colosseum,
219-20 ; the Forum, 223 ; the
Pantheon and other monuments,
218-20 ; St. Peter's, 220-1 ; the
Vatican and its marvels, 221-2.
ST. ANDREWS, visited, 1 14-5 ; Golf
Links, 115 ; St. Leonard's High
School for Girls, id.
Salisbury, the late Marquis of,
speaks at the Mansion House, on
the presentation of the Freedom
of the City of London to Earl Cur-
zon of Kedleston, 118.
Salviati & Co., visit paid to the
glass works of, 235-6.
Sheffield, visited, 82-5 ; a smoky
hive of industry, 82-3, 85 ;
Messrs. Rodger's wonderful cut-
lery works, 83 ; steel works of
Vickers, Sons & Maxim, 84-5.
Sion House, suburban residence of
the Dukes of Northumberland,
garden party at, 112.
Skrine, Mr. F. H., late of the Indian
Civil Service, author meets in
Paris, 190.
Skrine, Mrs. F. H., leads an amateur
dramatic performance at the
Albert Hall Theatre, 113; visits
the Garrick Theatre with the
author, 194.
Suez, arrival at, 8 ; an oasis in
the desert, id. ; Canal described,
9-
Suttner, Baroness, a leading Paci-
ficist, lectures at Marienbad on
" The Fight against War," 156-7 ;
present at a dinner party given
by the author, 157 ; a foundress
of the Historical Museum at
Geneva, 178.
Sutton, Messrs., famous seedsmen of
Reading, receive the author with
kindness on his visiting their
establishment, 66-7.
Switzerland, tour in, 176-187 ;
mountain climbing in, 183-4 ; a
model Republic, 182.
TEPL, a wealthy monastery near
Marienbad, visited by the author,
158-9.
" Tipping," Berlin coachmen and,
143-4 ; at hotels, 123 ; extor-
tionate on Italian railways,
216 ; prevalent in England, 52,
114.
Tod, Mr., author meets, 257.
UMRAO SINGH, THAKUR, of the
author's suite, i and passim.
VAKIL, Mr., of Ahmadabad, the
author meets, 6.
Venice, arrival at, 232 ; Armenian
monastery, 240 ; Arsenal, 243-4 ;
Cathedral of St. Mark, 237-8 ;
gondolas, why painted black, 232 ;
description, 232-3; substitutes for
wheeled vehicles, 233 ; how con-
structed and cost, 242-3 ; Palace
of the Doges, 233-5 ; San Rocco
Society's School, 237 ; Teatro
Malibran, 236-7.
Vesuvius, ascent accomplished of,
by Major Benn and Dr. Ramlal,
231.
Vienna, arrival at, 165 ; Apollo
Theatre, 167 ; Art-History and
Natural- History Museums, 167-8;
Hof burg Theatre, 1 66 ; Liechten-
stein Palace, 166 ; popular re-
INDEX
287
sorts inferior to those of London,
168-9 ; Schonbrunn Palace and
Gardens, 167 ; St. Stephen's
Cathedral, 166 ; the Imperial
Treasury, 167 ; University and
other monuments, 166-7 ; Votiv
Kirche, 166.
WALES, H.R.H. the Prince of, now
King George V., author pays a
visit to, and meets with a very
kind reception, 80.
Watson, Mr. Cradock, Headmaster
of Merchant Taylors' School,
Liverpool, 86-7.
Wollaston, Lady, the author meets
at the Northbrook Society, 58.
Wood, Mr. F. B., British Consul,
receives the author at Patras,
250,
Woolwich Arsenal, visited, 118-9.
Wyllie, Col. Sir Curzon, the late,
meets the author on arrival in
London, 38 ; most kindly and
helpful, 47 ; accompanies the
author in a visit to the Secretary
of State for India, 79.
ZURICH, visited, 176 ; famous for its
up-to-date education, id.
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