Travels and adventures in South and Central America

Robbins Library,

ARLINGTON, MASS.

FOUNDED BV

DR. Eg^JfrEZER LEARNED, 1836

ENDOWED BY

fir. Tilothy Wellington, 1853 Benry Mott, . . . 1881
Nathan Pratt 1875 Abridge Farmer, . 189!'

, BUILDING ERECTED BY

MARIA C. ROBBINS in memory of ELI ROBBINS, ,1892.

This book can bejkept two weeks and

then should bejgjpned to the Librarian,
with the cartbfrfwhich it was taken.

The fm£ft)r retaining it longer than the
time allowed is TWO CENTS A DAY.
For any injury or loss, full payment must
be made.

Any book may be renewed tf£*?e to the
same person, but not mor^tf^iionce, until
it has been returned t«ffe Library, and
has remained there one full Library day.

F., AUG. 1.7. 1987

^

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES

IN

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA.

FIRST SERIES

fif* in -tire flo0s 0f

DON RAMON PAEZ.

NIHIL ABDTJUM M^BTALIBUS."

... I

NEW YORK:
CHARLES SCRIBNER & CO., 654 BROADWAY

1868.

*« Oh 1 it is the land where brightest hueo
Gild sunset skies and glow in morning dewo
Where flowers the fairest ever seem to bloom,
Of the world's empire, to adorn the tomb.
Where blandest breezes on elastic wing,
Gladness and vigor to the bosom bring ;
Whore hang at once, within thy sunny bowers,
On citron trees, the fruitage and the flowers ;
Where hearts are ardent as the sun's they feel,

\ And buoyant as the gales that o'er them steal ;
Where maiden's love aa close, as sweet will twine,
As cling the tendrils of their native vine ;
Where the deep lustre of soft beauty's eye
Transcends the brightness of its own clear sky."

GODFREY'S " Cordelia."

.i:Av

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by

RAMON PAEZ.

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.

TO

MORRIS KETCHUM, ESQ.,

THE

KIND AND CONSTANT FRIEND

TO THE

EXILED AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

IT was my lot several years ago — I need not state how
many — to be brought forth into this world amid the wild
scenes which I propose to describe. Later in life I was
fortunate enough to be sent by my parents to England, for the
purpose of finishing my education under the tuition of the
learned fathers at the College of Stonyhurst. While there,
I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the inimi-
table author of " "Wanderings in South America," Charles
Waterton, Esq., who years before had also been an inmate
of that celebrated institution, and whose book became at once
my favorite study, on account of the graphic descriptions it
contains of animals and objects with which I was already
familiar. The works of the distinguished traveller, Baron
von Humboldt, who first made those regions known to the
civilized world, next afforded me an endless source of scien-
tific enjoyment, developing in me an early taste for the
natural history and physical wonders of my native land.

VI PREFACE.

On my return home, I immediately turned my steps
toward

" Those matted woods

Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey,"

anxious to study nature in her own sanctuary ; but, owing
to the unfortunate state of affairs in the country, I did not
enjoy long my cherished dreams of exploring it through all its
extent. Sufficient information was, however, obtained in my
rambles through the plains, to enlarge upon a subject scarcely
touched upon by travellers.

Thus from my earliest days have I been associated with
the scenes forming the text of the present narrative, which
I venture to lay before the public, trusting more in the indul-
gence and characteristic generosity of the Anglo-Saxon race
toward foreigners, than in my own ability to fulfil the
arduous undertaking.

CONTENTS.

CHAP.

INTRODUCTION, ..... xi

I. THE DEPARTURE, . ... 1

If. THE MORROS, ..... 16

III. THE LLANOS, ...... 26

IV. THE LLANEROS, ..... 40
V. SCENES AT THE FISHERY, . . . .57

VI. WILD HORSES, .... 74

VII. ACROSS THE PAMPAS, . . . . .85

VIII. LA PORTUGUESA, . . ." . 99

IX. THE APURE RIVER, . . . . .116

X. SAVANNAS OF APURE, . . , . 133

XI. EL FRIO, 148

XII. BIRDS OP ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS, . 163

XIII. THE RODEO, 175

XIV. BRANDING SCENES, . . . . .189
XV. PLANTS AND SNAKES, . . ... .202

XVI. TIGER STORIES, ..... 222

XVII. SHOOTING ADVENTURES, .... 238

XVIII. MATA TOTUMO, ..... 250

XIX. MONKEY NOTIONS, 262

XX. AMONG THE CROCODILES, . . . .281

XXI. THE CIMARRONERA, ..... 294

via CONTENTS.

PACK

XXII. Los BORALKS, . . . . .315

XXIII. OUR LEADER, ...... 329

XXIV. SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO, . . 862
XXV. THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER, . . .378

XXVI. THE LAND OF EL DORADO, . • .891

XXVII. THE OIL WELLS OF THE ORINOCO, . . . 430

XXVIII, HOMEWARD BOUND, .... 448

XXIX, CALABOZO, ...... 460

NOTE.

THE favorable — I may say flattering — notice which the previous
editions of the Wild Scenes in South America received from the press
of this country, and more especially from that of Great Britain, has
encouraged the Author of that work to make several material changes,
not only in the text — whole chapters having been stricken out and
their place supplied by new matter — but in the general plan of the
book, with the object of presenting it to the young American reader —
to whom this edition is especially devoted — in a form which will con-
vey a more comprehensive view of the wonders of a region scarcely
known here, except to the scientific through the works of Baron von
Humboldt and other European travellers who have visited it from time
to time in the pursuit of knowledge, or for pleasure. It is to be hoped,
however, that with the increased facilities offered by the various lines
of steamships now plying regularly between this country and various
points in South America, a more lively interest than hitherto has been
evinced here, will be aroused among the citizens of the Great Republic
towards countries which, by their geographical position and other
natural advantages, are destined to become the emporiums of a vast
trade with the United States of North America.

INTRODUCTION.

" Know'st thou the land where tho citron grows,
Where midst its dark foliage the golden orange glows ?
Thither, thither let us go."

GOETHE.

To YOUNG AMERICA:

" Smart," as the world over, you are acknowledged to
be — in which opinion I most heartily concur, having myself
spent among you the best part of my life — permit me to call
your attention to one important fact which has escaped your
notice thus far, or ratker that of your teachers, namely, a bet-
ter acquaintance with that vast and glorious portion of our
great continent lying at your very portals, South America —
a region of which you have only a faint idea from the meagre
information supplied by your School Geographies and occa-
sional newspaper correspondents, but in fact a land of won-
drous exuberance and untold natural wealth, which offers you
a field of enterprise worthy of the founders of the States of
California and Oregon, and the Territories of Montana, Ari-
zona, and Colorado.

It is a fact that while Europe, situated as it is far beyond
our own hemisphere, has always sent her very lest men to
represent her in the South American States, and to explore

x INTRODUCTION.

and report upon every thing worth knowing, this country,
America par excellence, has sent none as yet but broken down
and quarrelsome politicians, who, according to the statements
of some of the leading periodicals of this country,* are abso-
lutely incompetent to fill their post with credit to the nation
they represent. To my own personal knowledge I can testify
as to the class of men sent afloat to Venezuela, one of whom
had previously been master of a tug-boat on the Orinoco and
Apure river?, but through political influence at home was
suddenly enabled to emerge from that obscure though honor-
able calling to that of a diplomatic functionary, although it is
but fair to state that his social status in that country was in
no wise improved by his change of vocation. When his term
of office expired, with the change of administration at head-
quarters, he was duly replaced by another, whose conduct was
so disgraceful f that his countrymen resident in the Kepublic
petitioned the Government at home to remove him forthwith,
which was granted, but only to replace him by another — since
deceased — who, I am informed, was the only drunken man seen
in the streets of the capital.

Thanks to the unaided efforts of a missionary gentleman,
Rev. Mr. Fletcher, $ the magnificent empire of Brazil has lately
been brought to the notice of the people of the United States,
who, quick to appreciate the commercial advantages offered
by a foreign country, when fully demonstrated to them, have
already established a line of steamers between New York and

* Vide Now York "Herald," of July 17th and Aug. 5th, 1867.
f Vide New York " World," of Aug. 5th, 1866.
\ Author of "Brazil and the Brazilians."

INTRODUCTION. XI

the principal ports of the Empire. Outside of this the people
of this enterprising country have only had occasional glimpses
of the vast continent of South America, from the notes of
casual travellers and the official reports of Lieuts. Page,
Herndon, and Gibbon, of the navy, who confined their ob-
servations principally to the practicability of navigating the
two great rivers Amazon and La Plata, already surveyed by
their respective governments and explored from end to end
by several European travellers. It is to be hoped, however,
that the eminent naturalist, Agassiz, who lately visited the
former river with reference to a particular branch of science,
will give us the result of his explorations as clearly, and re-
lieved of the technicalities of scientific lore so common among
naturalists, as the distinguished artist Church, who several,
years ago penetrated, "on his own hook," to the heart of the
Andes, has presented the grand and beautiful ridge on canvass
to the eyes of admiring thousands who have gazed upon his
admirable paintings, thus familiarising the outside world with
that picturesque region, and earning for himself a name second
to none in the estimation of the artistic world.

North Americans cannot longer -ignore that great section
of our continent which, during thirteen years, warred to the
knife against her powerful antagonists, Spain and Portugal,
for the possession of those political principles proclaimed
years before by their own Great Republic ; for it is a fact,
that while most of the European nations hastened to acknowl-
edge the independence of the South American States, the
United States of America were the last to recognize them ;
and if we of the South have not been as successful in the

Xiv. INTRODUCTION.

rating in the mountains of India the various species of
cinchona trees indigenous to the Andean range of moun-
tains, that yield that invaluable drug, quinine ; while another
enterprising Englishman undertook to stock Australia wiih
the Alpaca sheep of the same region, at the risk of his life
and fortune.

Thus England, France, and Germany have secured the
monopoly of the South American trade, with total exclusion
of this country, which has to pay cash for what the former
obtain in exchange for the produce of their manufactories.
All these nations, moreover, appoint permanent representa-
tives, chosen from among their ablest diplomats, and keep
them there as long as they choose to remain, to enable them
to become thoroughly acquainted with the people and the pe-
culiarities of the country, endearing themselves to the inhab-
itants by their munificent hospitality and courtly demeanor.
Even distant and snow-bound Russia has sent to South
America her commissions of savants, and maintains there, as
well as Sweden, competent representatives, whose duty it is
to report to their respective governments on the progress of
affairs and the resources of those countries.

I shall not close the list of European travellers and natu-
ralists, with whom I am acquainted, without adding those of
Holland and Belgium, viz., Mr. Langsberg, for many years
Minister Plenipotentiary from the former country to Ven-
ezuela, Baron Ponthos, and Messrs. Linden and Funk,
who, by their united efforts, have contributed to enlighten
their countrymen respecting the source from whence India-
rubber emanates, and the kind of trees that yield the val-

INTRODUCTION. XV

uable Calisaya and Angostura barks j what plants yield the
fragrant Vanilla and Tonka beans, the healing balsams of
Copaiva, Tolu, and Peru ; and how indigo, cacao, and coffee
are raised. "Does cotton grow in Venezuela ? " " Are there
any railroads in Chile ? " are questions which have respec-
tively been addressed to me and to the accredited Minister of
the latter flourishing republic to the United States by persons
enjoying the greatest advantages of education in this country.
Now, it is a well-known fact to European merchants that the
cotton raised in Venezuela ranks among the finest in the
world ; and as regards railroads, Chile possesses some of the
most admirable works of the kind, due to the skill of North
American engineers.

But no wonder that so little is known here about South
America, when one of the standard School Geographies and
most recent publications describes the products of Venezuela
in these few lines :

" Its principal products are the woods and fruits of the
forest and the cattle of the plains."

"Exports. — The principal exports are the tropical fruits,
which grow without cultivation ; and hides, cattle, horses, and
mules."

Any one would be led to suppose, from the perusal of
the above quotations, that the country at large is "in a state
of nature," and that the inhabitants themselves are no better
off than " the cattle of the plains,"

" Where at each step the stranger fears to wake
The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake ;
Where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey,
A.iid savage men more murderous still than they."

— The DeMried Village.

Xvi INTRODUCTION.

These tilings are only found in the depths of the primeva^
forest, or amidst the labyrinths of rivers that traverse the vast
extent of prairie land or llanos which form the subject of this
book. These are the grazing grounds as well as military
school of the republic : the agricultural portion lies north of
this region, amidst the great chain of mountains, which, de-
taching itself from the main Andean trunk in New Granada,
or Colombia, as it is now called, runs eastward along the
shores of the Caribbean Sea. The products of this region
consist principally, as the school-book quoted above states, in
the tropical fruits, not collected at random, as might be in-
ferred from the above meager statement, but through the most
careful cultivation, as a contemporary English traveller in that
country rightly describes it in a few lines.

"July llth. — Having got our passports, we started at
about 3 P. M. for San Pedro, distant about six leagues. The
first three leagues lay through the beautiful valley of Chacao
(Caracas). Everything bore the appearance of great pros-
perity. The road was as good as any in Europe. The hedges
were beautifully clipped ; hardly a foot of ground could be
seen that was not in a high state of cultivation. The planta-
tions were numerous and in good order, and the long chimneys
and black smoke showed that even in this remote valley steam
was rendering its thousand-handed assistance. We crossed
and recrossed the Rio Guaire several times before we ar-
rived at Antimano, some two leagues distant from Caracas.
"We met several herds of wild cattle, being driven towards
Caracas by the llaneros in crimson or blue ponchos, mount-
ed on high-picked saddles, with their constant companion, the

INTRODUCTION.

lasso, plaited into their horses' tails, and the long cattle-spears
in their hands. The cattle were magnificent-looking animals,
and reminded me of the breed that one sees in the bull-rings
of old Spain. Coffee is more cultivated in the valley of
Chacao than any other crop, and it contributes in no small
degree to the beauty of the scenery." * •

Besides coffee this country produces the famous Cacao and
indigo of Caracas, sugar-cane, and cotton of superior quality,
tobacco hardly inferior to that of Cuba, especially the celebra-
ted Varinas and Guacharo kinds, rice, Indian-corn, and most
of the cereals of northern latitudes, according to the elevation
above the sea level ; and as to the products gathered " in a
state of nature," such as sarsaparilla, India-rubber, Piassaba,
Vanilla, and Tonka beans, cabinet and dye-woods, their name
is legion, and would require a separate volume devoted to that
particular branch of scientific research, which the reader can
find admirably compiled in the works of Humboldt and
Bonpland, St. Hilaire, Sir Eobert Schombourgh, Codazzi,
and others.

Now it is my purpose to introduce the young American
reader to a country —

" Where maidens' love as close, as sweet will twine,
As cling the tendrils of their native vine,"

and which hitherto seems to have been a sealed book to the
future " Merchant Princes " of the great North. Hurnboldt
describes it thus, in 1802 : —

* "Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America,." by
Edward Sullivan, Esq. London, 1852.

VENEZUELA.

"CARACAS is the capital of a country nearly twice as
large as Peru, and now little inferior in extent to the king-
dom of New Granada. This country, which the Spanish
government designates by the name of Capitania-General- de
Caracas, or the United Provinces of Venezuela, has nearly
a million of inhabitants, among whom are sixty thousand
slaves. It comprises, along the coasts, New Andalusia, or
the province of Cumana (with the island of .Margarita), Bar-
celona, Venezuela, or Caracas, Coro, and Maracaibo : in the
interior the Provinces of Barinas and Guiana; the former
situated on the rivers of Santo Domingo and the Apure,
the latter stretching along the Orinoco, the Casiquiare, the
Atabapo, a,nd the Rio Negro. In a general view of the seven
United Provinces of Tierra Firme, we perceive that they form
three distinct zones, extending from East to West.

" We find, first, cultivated land along the sea-shore, and
near the chain of the mountains on the coast ; next, savannas
or pasturages ; and finally, beyond the Orinoco, a third zone,
that of the forests, into which we can penetrate only by the
rivers which traverse them. If the native inhabitants of the
forest lived entirely on the produce of the chase, like those
of the Missouri, we might say that the three zones, into which
we have divided the territory of Venezuela, picture the three
states of human society ; the life of the wild hunter, in the

VENEZUELA. XIX

woods of the Orinoco ; pastoral life in the savannas or llanos,
and the agricultural state, in the high valleys, and at the foot
of the mountains on the coast."*

And yet this favored region can be reached in from twelve
to fifteen days by sailing packets between Philadelphia and
La Guaira ; or, should your fast habits require it, we can
avail ourselves of the Brazilian line of steamships which
will leave us at St. Thomas, where we shall meet the little
steamer plying regularly between both points, the whole
voyage being thus accomplished in eight days. As we are
not in a hurry, however, to get through our journey, we will,
for the sake of convenience and diversified amusement, follow
the example of the above-mentioned traveller, Sullivan, who,
in company of a friend, made the trip before us in a com-
modious yacht by the way of the "West India Islands ; but
having no craft of our own, we may be permitted to borrow
from the New York yacht squadron one of their idle cutters,
which can thus be better employed than in cruising round
well-known fashionable retreats during a few months of sum-
mer, and exposed for the rest of the year to the hard knocks
of a wintry climate. This is the best season to visit the
tropics, as well as the West Indies, when there is no fear of
the dreaded vomito or sweeping hurricanes.

Hardly a day passes without coming in sight of some
lovely isle of the Caribbean sea, which, like the " Queen of
the Antilles," — Cuba — rises from amidst the placid waves,
crowned with perpetual wreaths of fragrant orange-blossoms

* Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.

XX VENEZUELA.

and stately palms. Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas,
Sta. Cruz, Antigua, Granada, Barbadoes, Martinique, Gkiada-
loupe, Tobago, and Trinidad, rise one after another in quick
succession. When we reach the last named and most lovely
of all, on the eastern extremity of Venezuela, we have the
choice of either penetrating at once into the field of our ad-
ventures by entering one of the numerous outlets of the
Orinoco, which here pours out its tribute to the mighty
Atlantic through a hundred mouths ; or, following the line
of coast to the westward, we may reach a point near the fer-
tile valleys of Aragua, where well-trained horses for the sport
and hardy llaneros to guide us, await our arrival. "We shall
thus have an opportunity of contemplating and admiring that
stupendous chain of mountains (fit offspring of the mighty
Andes further west), which seems as if thrown up by Titanic
• force as a barrier against the encroachments of the fierce
Atlantic.

Endless are the beauties and points of interest presented
by this splendid chain of mountains ; its varied climes, from
the scorching heats of the tierra caliente on the sea level
to the frigid blasts of winter at higher elevations ; its silvery
springs and roaring cataracts ; its unrivalled vegetation and
glittering veins of precious metals. The trade winds and
currents are in our favor, which will enable us to reach La
G-uaira in a couple of days, passing in quick succession some
minor ports, such as Rio Caribe, Carupano, with its silver-
bearing mountains in the distance, the island of Margarita,
famous for its pearls, as the name implies ; its fisheries, and
the gallant defence made by the inhabitants against the

VENEZUELA. XXI

combined attacks of the Spanish hordes; Cumana, for its
delicious grapes and pine-apples, its salubrious climate, and
the purity of the sky, which enabled the immortal Humboldt
to watch in wonderment the great meteoric shower in 1799,
which he compared to a brilliant display of fire-works ; Bar-
celona, noted only for its hides, and the Monagas brother-
hood, who were for many years the terror of the country.

The coast, as we approach La Guaira, is lined with plan-
tations of sugar-cane, cacao and cocoa-nuts, two articles often
confounded in English spelling, but widely different in them-
selves. The former grows on a moderately-sized tree, with
large, glossy leaves, while the latter is the product of a palm,
remarkable for the height it attains, and the prodigious size
of its fruit, in bunches that few men can lift from the ground.
The cacao nuts, on the contrary, grow in pods, resembling
large cucumbers, of a rich chocolate color outside, filled with
oblong nuts enveloped in a white, sub-acid pulp, very agreeable
to the taste especially of parrots, monkeys, and squirrels, who
destroy great quantities of the pods for the sake of the pulp,
so that they require constant watching to protect them from
these pests.

A cacao plantation is one of the handsomest orchards
that can be seen, shaded as they are by another tree of large
proportions, the erythriua, a leguminous plant with crimson
flowers, which you may have noticed in greenhouses at home,
though much reduced in size, as it never attains there more
than a few feet above the boxes on which they are raised as
an ornament to the garden in summer. The rapidity with
which these trees grow in the tropics is astonishing, for in

XXii VENEZUELA.

eight or ten years, Jie time required to reach its maximum
growth, they attain the size of the largest denizens of the
forest. Observe how their tops glow with the fiery hue of
their blossoms, for this is the season when they exchange
their leaves for flowers, the only instance of a plant shedding
its leaves in these latitudes, with the exception of the ceiba
or silk cotton tree, which the author of Amyas Leigh has so
admirably described as growing close to where we are jour-
neying just now.

Here the cordillera rises considerably above the connect-
ing mountains, attaining a height of thirteen thousand feet in
the peak of Naiguata, which you may perceive peeping
through the clouds yonder, and the next one eleven thousand
in the Cerro de Avila, both forming what is called the Silla,
or Saddle of Caracas, at the foot of which stands La Guaira.,
the principal port of the republic, but the vilest anchorage
in the world. Here ends our yacht excursion ; trusting in
future to the nimble-footed mule or to the thumping stage
coaches for the rest of the journey.

Despite its wretched shipping facilities, La Guaira carries
on a very active trade with foreign marts, as is attested by
the number of English, French, German, and Italian mer-
chants, with a few Americans, residing here, forming, as it
were a truly foreign colony. The heat, as you perceive, is
intense, owing to the proximity of the barren mountain-base,
which leaves room scarcely for a loaded mule to turn round
in the narrow and crowded-up streets. On this account, I
presume, La Guaira is very healthy, for not even the Asiatic
cholera could obtain a footing here — excuse the pun — when

VENEZUELA. XX1U

it decimated the capital in 1853. Cases of vomito occur from
time to time: but these are more the exception than the
rule ; so it does not follow that all hot places in the tropics
are unhealthy, for Carupano, Margarita, Cumana, La Guaira,
and Coro, which are within the isothermal line of greatest
heat — owing, doubtless, to the dry, stony, or sandy soil on
which they stand — are among the healthiest spots in Vene-
zuela. However, we shall soon be out of this sultry place,
and amidst the glories of a temperate climate. For this pur-
pose we will hire mules at one of the posadas or hotels, to
ascend the mountains on our way to Caracas, the capital
of the republic, giving the preference to the old road, which
is much shorter and more picturesque than the new one for
carriage travel. Let us hear first the enthusiastic English
tourist describe this route, as I may be accused by some of
partiality towards my own country.

" The ascent is very precipitous, and the road rough and
narrow, but the view of the boundless ocean on one hand, and
the magnificent range of mountains on the other, was very
grand. Th° road rather reminded me of the Great St. Ber-
nard, though the resemblance would not bear analyzing. The
sensation of rising gradually into the cooler strata of air was
most delicious ; and at length, being suddenly enveloped in a
cloud, I felt actually cold (a novel sensation I had not expe-
rienced for several months), and was not at all sorry to put on
my jacket. There is no mountain in the tropics where you
rise as immediately and suddenly from the stifling heat of
the Tierra Caliente to the delicious temperature of an Eu-
ropean sunrise in spring, as the Silla of Caracas.

VENEZUELA.

" On the road from Vera Cruz to Mexico, when the trav
eller arrives at the height of four thousand feet, beyond
which the fever never spreads, he is upwards of thirty miles
from the sea, whereas, on the road up the Silla at that height
the ocean lies immediately at his feet, and he looks down upon
it as from a tower. So perpendicular is the face of the Silla
towards the sea, that any large loulder or mass of rock becom-
ing detached high up the mountain and bounding down its
face, would fall clean into the ocean. About half way up the
mountain, we crossed a deep cleft in the mountain called the
Salto — a jump — on rather a rickety old draw-bridge. The
bridge is commanded by a ruinous old town, called Torre
Quemada, or the Burnt Tower, a name it derives from its be-
ing placed just at the height where the traveller, descending
to La Guaira, first encounters the stifling exhalations from
the Tierra Caliente. About nine o'clock we stopped to break-
fast at La Yenta, an inn some five thousand feet above La
Guaira. Here, in a perfectly European atmosphere, we lay
out in the grass, and gazed down upon the ocean and the
town of La Guaira ; we could just distinguish the Ariel,
looking the size of a walnut-shell, hoisting her white sail, and
standing away for Porto Cabello, where we were to meet her,
unless we returned to Trinidad via the Rio Apure and the
Orinoco."

Both sides of the road are lined with Maguey plants, or
varieties of the Agave genus, improperly called aloes and
century-plants, from a mistaken notion that they only blossom
once in a hundred years. The most beautiful of these is the
cocwy, with thick glossy leaves of a clear emerald color, from

VENEZUELA. XXV

six to eight feet, and a flower-stock from twenty-five to thirty
feet in length. I believe it is the same species that yields
the famous beverage of the Mexicans, called pulque, which
some compare to fermented animal juices. A much more
agreeable drink is obtained here by distillation from this plant,
and its leaves turned to better account by scraping out the
fine fibres they contain, from which most beautiful hammocks
are made in various parts of the country, besides ropes, coffee-
bags, twine, etc., etc. A fortune is in store for some Yankee
genius who will invent the proper machine for dressing these
leaves and getting the fibres. The other varieties are the
cocuiza Irava. or common century-plant (Agave Americana),
with serrated leaves, on which account it is very useful for
making hedges, and the cocuiza dulce, with perfectly smooth
leaves, containing the strongest fibres and usually cultivated
for that purpose. The pith of the flower-stock is also turned
to account in various ways, especially for making the best kind
of razor-strops.

"Were you as much a lover of plants as I am, I would in-
vite you to descend with me to one of those lovely glens
formed by these mountains. There, amid moss-covered rocks
and sparkling rivulets, I would point out to you those singular
orchidacoeous plants usually called air-plants, because they ob-
tain their nourishment from the moist air that surrounds them,
— not a bad idea, — those lovely daughters of Flora and Fa-
vonius, so rich in perfume as well as color, but whose prin-
cipal charm consists in their caricaturing most living objects
in nature, from the " human form divine," as in man-orchis
(0. mascula) to the bumble-bee, often deceived by a perfect

XXVi VENEZUELA.

representation of his species (Ophris apifera). Thus we
count among our floral treasures " angels," " swans," " doves,"
"eagles," "pelicans," "spiders," "butterflies," "bumble-bees,"
and even a perfect infant in its cradle, was found by Linden in
the mountains of Merida. The celebrated Flor del Espiritu
Santo (Peristeria elata) is another of this class. It is there
only that are found those two most beautiful species of cattleya
(0. Mossise and C. Labiata), so highly prized by plant collec-
tors, from all nations, and here called Flor de Mayo, or May-
flower, because it blossoms principally in the month of May.
Great favorites are they with us also, and no court-yard is
deemed sufficiently ornamented at Caracas without one or
more baskets of these lovely plants, the stump of a tree, or any
rustic basket filled with bark or moss, being sufficient support
for them. In the same manner the curious Butterfly-flower
(Oncidium papillio) is raised along with the others, often
deceiving persons unacquainted with it, with a perfect rep-
resentation of the insect whose name it bears ; and if you
should visit with me some of the cacao plantations in the
tierra caliente, I would point out to you two equally ex-
quisite plants of the same family attached to the rough
stems and branches of the Erythrina, namely, the Swan-flower
(Cycnoches ventricosum) and the Vanilla, both filling the
air with the same perfume, but in different form, the former
through its swan-like flowers, in clusters of three, five, and
even seven, and the latter through its ripened pods — so well
Known to perfumers and confectioners — as the blossoms of
this last, though quite large and handsome, are destitute of
perfume.

VENEZUELA. XXV11

But to return to our mountain ride, for it is time that
we should be prepared to behold a still more glorious view
from the summit, than the one just described by Sullivan :
"After a regular Spanish breakfast of chocolate and fried
eggs, for which, in as regular Spanish custom, we were
charged about ten times the proper amount, we continued our
ascent, and gained the seat of the Saddle, a hollow between
the two peaks, called the Pummel and Croup,* about ten
o'clock. The summit of the pass called Las Vueltas, is a
smooth undulating grass-land, somewhat like the sheep-downs
of Sussex. The bold rocky peaks on either hand, stretching
in a serrated ridge as far as the eye could reach, were very
fine. I could scarcely fancy myself to be only ten degrees
north of the equator, and actually on or rather only eight
thousand feet above the isothermal line of greatest heat,
which passes through Cartagena, La Guaira, and Cumana.

" We had left far below us all the tropical flora, and
were amongst English ferns and English blackberries;
and I actually discovered one familiar friend, a dandelion.
From the summit of Las Vueltas, you first get a mag-
nificent view of the valley of Chacao, lying some four
thousand feet below you, with the city of Caracas in the
centre of it. I don't think the view from that height is so
fine as some thousand feet lower down, where it certainly
beats any view I have ever seen. It is finer in my opinion
than the first coup d'oeil of the Vega and city of Granada

* The writer is mistaken ; the Saddle stands four or five miles
east of this point, which is called La Cumbre, or the Summit.

XXViii VENEZUELA.

from the Ultimo Suspiro del Moro, where the degenerate
Boabdil el Chico, both in mind and body, turned to take
one last fond look at the luxurious abode of his chivalric
ancestors and wept bitterly, though too late, at his own
cowardice and duplicity, which had almost without a blow
surrendered to the " curs of Nazareth " the splendid heri-
tage of nearly seven centuries, and which was never but in
imagination to return to the true sons of the Prophet. It
is also finer than the Valley of Chamouni or Martigny,
from the Tete Noire, but I think it bears more resem-
blance to the Vega of Granada."

Observe how regularly laid out, at right angles to each
other, the streets are ; the area of the city is great for the
number of inhabitants (sixty thousand), most of the houses
being built one story high, and occupying in consequence
a large space, on account of the earthquakes, which are of
frequent occurrence all along the Andean range. As we
approach the suburbs, you may notice some of the ruins
still remaining of that dreadful catastrophe, which, in
1812, levelled this beautiful city to the ground, burying
beneath the debris twelve thousand of the inhabitants, just
as they had assembled in the magnificent churches of that
time to render homage to the day, Holy Thursday. Since
then the city has been rebuilt, it is to be hoped on more
solid basis.

Caracas claims the honor of having given birth to
several distinguished individuals, among others to Bolivar
and Miranda, two of the greatest champions of South
American independence ; to Rosio, the Jefferson of Vene-

VENEZUELA. XXIX

zuela ; to Andres Bello, a great poet and publicist ; and to
the eminent surgeon and physician, Dr. Vargas, one of the
Presidents of the Republic.

The climate of Caracas has often been called a per-
petual spring. " What can we conceive to be more de-
lightful than a temperature which in the day keeps between
20° and 26°,* and at night between 16° and 18°, which is
equally favorable to the plantain, the orange tree, the coffee
tree, the apple, the apricot, and corn ? Jose de Oviedo y
Banos, the historiographer of Venezuela, calls the situation
of Caracas that of a terrestrial paradise, and compares the
Anauco and the neighboring torrents to the four rivers of
the Garden of Eden." f

The hotels, Sullivan describes as being as good as any
in Europe. " You might travel from one end of Old
Spain to the other without finding anything to be com-
pared to them, either as regards cleanliness or the civility
of the landlords." But as here I am at home, you are most
cordially invited to our mansion at the end of the Calle del
Comercio, where you may verify for yourself the truth of
the statements concerning the climate and productions of
this fertile valley. We may at once enter the garden,
which occupies nearly the whole square, where, after our
rough ride, we can refresh ourselves with the fruits of the
season.

Here, as you perceive, you find growing side by side
the refreshing orange and the luscious apple, the pome-

* Centigrade thermom. f Humboldt— Travels.

XXX VENEZUELA.

granate and the peach ; the banana, the citron, the guava,
the sapodilla, and papaw tree, all of them eminently tropi-
cal fruits, with the pear, the grape-vine, and other produc-
tions of temperate regions. Unsurpassed by any, not even
by the famous Mangosteen of the Spicy Islands, you have
here the delicious Chirimoya, or cherimoyer, as pronounced
by Anglo-Saxons, and which I can only liken to lumps of
flavored cream ready to be frozen, suspended from the
branches of some fairy tree amidst the most overpowering
perfume of its flowers ; for it is in bearing all the year
round, as indeed are most of the fruit trees you see about
this garden, and consequently you may at all times enjoy
the advantage of refreshing the inner as well as the outer
man with a " wilderness of sweets." Markham,* who has
tasted both the chirimoya and mangosteen in their native
habitat, gives the preference decidedly to the former, and
says of it : " He who has not tasted the chirimoya fruit
has yet to learn what fruit is." " The pineapple, the man-
gosteen and the chirimoya," says Dr. Seeman, " are con-
sidered the finest fruits in the world. I have tasted them
in those localities" in which they are supposed to attain
their highest perfection — the pineapple in Guayaquil, the
mangosteen in the Indian Archipelago, and the chirimoya
on the slope of the Andes, and if I were called upon to act
the part of a Paris, I would without hesitation assign the
apple to the chirimoya. Its taste indeed surpasses that of
every other fruit, and Haenke was quite right when he
called it the masterpiece of nature."

* Travels in Peru and India.

VENEZUELA. XXXI

The numerous varieties of hot-house grapes, which in
your variable climate of the north require so much skill
and attention to perfect their growth, here thrive without
the least care, and the vines which you see struggling here
and there among the trees for some kind of support, pro-
ceed from cuttings which I brought over six years ago from
one of the best regulated establishments in Connecticut.

Here, too, the stately Mauritia-palm of the Orinoco, the
date-palm of the burning Sahara, the royal-palm of Cuba
(Oredoxa Begia), and the oil-palm of Africa (Eleis guinensis)
commingle their majestic crowns with the dense foliage of
the mango tree of India, the aromatic cinnamon tree of Cey-
lon, the bread-fruit tree of Otaheite, and the sombre pines
and cypress of northern regions, forming the most effective
protection to the shade-loving magnolia and the delicate
violet of your native woods.

Swarms of tiny and brilliant humming-birds flutter
amid masses of highly-scented orange blossoms that per-
fume the air around us. Any one unacquainted with that
bijou of the feathered tribe, would mistake it at first sight
for some of the metallic-colored beetles which dispute with
them the nectar of the fragrant flowers, so brilliant is the
lustre shed by both. " For that peculiar charm which
resides in flashing light combined with the most brilliant
colors, the lustre of precious stones, there are no birds, no
creatures that can compare with the humming-birds. Con-
fined exclusively to America — whence we have already
gathered between three and four hundred distinct species,
and more are continually discovered — these lovely little

XXX11 VENEZUELA.

winged gems were to the Mexican and Peruvian Indians
the very quintessence of beauty. By these simple people
they were called by various names, signifying ' the rays of
the sun,' * the tresses of the day-star/ and the like." *

You may have noticed in your conservatories at home
a well known creeper called the passion-flower, on account
of a fancied similarity in the arrangement of its inflor
escence with the instruments of torture employed in the
martyrdom of the Saviour, such as the crown of thorns,
the three nails, the hammer, and even the spots of sacred
blood round the pillar of agony. The plants of this genus
are general favorites with northern horticulturists only on
account of the beauty and delicious aroma of their flowers,
for they bear no fruit with you ; but here, this constitutes
their principal merit, especially that of the granadilla,
which you may perceive intertwining its graceful vines
amongst yonder arbor set up for its support. Huge water-
melon-like fruits hang from its delicate tendrils as if sus-
pended by a thread ; cut open one of them ; you will find
it filled with a nectarian juice, which, when crushed in the
mouth, regale your palate with the compound flavor of
the strawberry and the peach. Other varieties of passion-
flower— of which there are many though less pretentious
in size than the granadilla — bear fruit equally rich in
flavor. Unfortunately, not all fructify in the same local-
ity, as they require different degrees of temperature, and
maybe of atmospheric pressure, also, to ripen their fruit,
which they cunningly obtain for themselves by " squatting "

* Gosse's " Romance of Natural History."

VENEZUELA.

of their own accord higher up or lower down the mountains,
as the case may be.

I could still point out to you many other delicious fruits
in this garden were they in season, such as the tuna or
Indian-fig, borne by the nopal, a species of cactus, on the
fleshy, downy stems of which the cochineal insect is reared
for those most valuable crimson and scarlet dyes " which
far outshine the vaunted productions of ancient Tyre ; " and
the pitahaya, of the same family of plants, notable for the
size and effulgence of its flowers. " It begins to open as
the sun declines, and is in full expanse throughout the
night, shedding a delicious fragrance,, and offering its brim-
ming goblet, filled with nectaripus juice, to thousands of
moths, and other crepuscular and nocturnal insects. When
the moon is at the full in those cloudless nights whose love-
liness is only known in the tropics, the broad blossom is
seen as a circular dish nearly a foot in diameter, very full
of petals, of which the outer series are of a yellowish hue,
gradually paling to the centre, where they shine in the
purest white. The numerous recumbent stamens surround
the style, which rises in the midst like a polished shaft, the
whole growing in its silvery beauty under the moonbeams,
from the dark and matted foliage, and diffusing its delicious
clove-like fragrance so profusely that the air is loaded with
it for furlongs round."*

I well remember one night when a distinguished for-
eigner, General Devereux, who rendered the patriot cause
so marked a service by bringing over the Irish Legion to

* Romance of Natural History.

XXXIV VENEZUELA.

assist this country in her struggle for independence, honored
me with a visit while keeping bachelor's hall in this — to me
then — earthly paradise. The Queen of Night was shining
in all her glory, and the air redolent with the perfume of
many exquisite flowers, among others that of the pitahaya
just described, while the stillness that reigned around the
spot, added to my youthful dreams of fairy lands I had
lately visited across the seas, made me feel a particular
pride about our mansion in the capital. Although the old
hero was perfectly blind — as will be recollected by many
who knew him in the United States where he resided after-
wards— I could not resist the wish to invite him to take a
stroll about the garden. As we passed close to the flowers
of the pitahaya, the gallant old soldier stopped suddenly,
and seizing me by the hand with an emotion that made me
feel the deepest sympathy for the blind man, said : " How
happy you must be here, my young friend, surrounded as
you are by plants that shed such heavenly perfume ! " But
when we passed a bower of English honeysuckles, which was
my special favorite, as I had planted it with my own hands,
his emotions were indeed those of a man who felt as though
everything on earth was lost to him — sweet home, friendly
associations, the world itself in fact, and that he was only a
wandering spirit in a strange sphere.

This, my good companion, reminds me too that such,
more or less, is my own situation in this my native land,
subject as it has been for years to political convulsions more
disastrous to the peacefully inclined, than those subterranean
fires which agitate the soil from time to time. Therefore

VENEZUELA. XXXV

our rambles in the capital must be of short duration, and
following the rout already pointed out by the traveller Sul-
livan, we will proceed on our journey towards the fertile
valley of Aragua, stopping for the night at Las Adjuntas, a
village delightfully situated at the foot of another lofty
range of mountains which separates this from that of Cara-
cas, near the junction of two mountain streams that form
the Rio Guaire which passes near the capital.

Should you ever be troubled with nervousness or dys-
pepsia from too close application to business, or even be
threatened with that more serious complaint of cold cli-
mates, consumption, don't let your Doctor bother you with
physic, nor delude yourself with a trip " down South,"
Cuba, or even Europe ; all this may at best prolong a mis-
erable existence a little longer j instead of that, come here
at once ; bring plenty of books to while away the dolce far
niente of this quiet place ; or if you are a sportsman, your
gun and fishing tackle ; when sufficiently convalescent to
undergo the fatigues of the journey, buy or hire horses for
yourself and a good peon or guide, and start for the llanos^
where you will have to rough it out as I did some years
ago, and I guarantee you a radical cure.

At Las Adjuntas we have the choice of two roads, one
for carriages, made at great cost since Sullivan's visit to th£*
country, and the other one right over the mountains ; as
this is by far the most picturesque of the two and the one
described by him, we will follow on his footsteps, if you
wish to enjoy the glorious scenery, of which he says ;

" Next morning, at 3 A. M., our faithful mozo roused us,

XXXVI VENEZUELA.

—at San Pedro — and we found our mules already saddled,
The morning was very cold, and a cloak was by no means
disagreeable. As far as I could make out by the light of a
most glorious moon, San Pedro must be a very picturesque
and flourishing village. We continued ascending through a
thickly-wooded, mountainous path, for about three hours,
when we found ourselves along the summit of the mountain,
here called Las Cocuizas. Here the scenery was truly mag-
nificent. The road wound along the summit of the Sierra,
giving alternate views of the valley of the Tuy, with the
distant valley of Aragua on the one hand, and the valley of
Ocumare bounded the snow-capped mountains that separate
the valleys from the plains on the other. Out of the main
valleys narrow little glens wind, and nestle up into the
mountains, till lost to view. Their rounded sides, and the
emerald brilliancy of nature's carpet with which they were
clothed, reminded me of some of the glens of the Cheviots.
" That morning's moonlight ride along the summits of
the sierra of Las Cocuizas was certainly one of the most
enjoyable I ever remember. It was almost like magic,
when as the sun began to approach the horizon, the perfect
stillness of the forests beneath was gradually broken by the
occasional note of some early riser of the winged inhabit-
ants, till at length, as the day itself began to break, the
whole forest seemed to be suddenly warmed into life, send-
ing forth choir after choir of gorgeous-pi umaged songsters,
each after his own manner, to swell the chorus of greeting
— a discordant one, I fear it must be owned — to the glorious
sun ; and when the morning light enabled you to see down

VENEZUELA, XXXVii

into the misty valleys beneath, there were displayed to our
enchanted gaze zones of fertility embracing almost every
species of tree and flower that flourishes between the Tierra
Caliente and the regions of perpetual snow. It certainly
was a view of almost unequalled magnificence. We were
riding amongst apple and peach trees that might have be-
longed to. an English orchard, and on whose branches we
almost expected to see the blackbird and the chaffinch ;
while a few hundred yards below, parrots and macaws,
monkeys and mocking-birds were sporting among the palms
and tree-ferns of a tropical climate. I consider that this
view alone would repay any lover of fine scenery for all the
troubles and risks of crossing the Atlantic, for I do not
know where one to be compared with it is to be found in
Europe."

This mountain takes the name of Las Cocuizas from the
abundance of Agave plants growing here, and which impart
such peculiar aspect to the landscape as we descend towards
the bed of the Tuy, at the foot of the mountain. Here we
must stop to breakfast and pass the sun before we proceed
on our journey along the Tierra Caliente not far from our
resting-place.

" We found the pretty village of Las Cocuizas," proceeds
Sullivan, " situated at the entrance of a delicious little glen,
down which warbled the waters of the Tuy. The Ven ta, in
fact nearly the whole village was shaded by one enormous
saman-tree,* which to the dusty and wearied traveller gave
it a most enticing appearance ; neither did it disappoint our

* A species of Mimosa.

XXXV111 VENEZUELA.

expectations, for a cleaner room and a better breakfast
better cooked and better served, I never wish to taste.
This venta at Las Cocuizas is most enchantingly situated at
the foot of the mountain and at the entrance of the valley
of the Tuy, which is there a mere glen ; one side is entirely
shaded by this enormous tree, and the other overhanging
the Tuy, which with its rocky bed and thickly-wooded, pre-
cipitous banks, reminded one very much of some of the trib-
utaries of the Tweed. The venta would be a charming place
to stay at for a few days' angling in the Tuy, which 1 believe
is very good."

After leaving the venta of Las Cocuizas, we wade
through the waters of the Tuy — no bridge being provided
here — and proceed along a well graded road for carts and
carriages skirting the base of another ridge of mountains
until we reach the village of El Consejo, where the great
valley of Aragua, seventy miles in length, properly com-
mences. And now we are in the great coffee region, " the
garden of Venezuela" as it is very aptly called by common
accord. As we ride towards the town of La Victoria,
where we shall stop for the night, we pass several extensive
plantations of that delicious shrub, shaded like the cacao by
those stupendous erythrinas which you might mistake for a
primeval forest, were it not for the uniformity of their
growth and dazzling blossoms. Nothing in your vaunted
system of cultivation in the North can excel the care be-
stowed upon these plantations, which must be kept in the
best order to yield handsome returns ; but as we cannot
stop to visit one of these just now, you will permit me to

VENEZUELA. XXXIX

repeat what the traveller often quoted before, says in
regard to the region we are traversing :

" The valleys of Aragua are the most thickly populated
and the most highly cultivated of all the districts of Vene-
zuela. The level of the valley is two thousand feet below the
valley of Caracas, consequently the heat much more intense.
Coffee is now the chief article of exportation from Venezuela,
the fluctuating price of which has of late years been very
injurious to the country. The berry grown is of a superior
quality, and fetches a much better price than the Cuban or
Brazilian coffee, though not quite so high as that grown in
Jamaica. Some of the coffee and sugar estates we passed
were on the largest scale, employing as many as two hun-
dred slaves,* besides the same number of laborers. A coffee
plantation, either in blossom or when the berry is ripe, is
the most beautiful culture in the world. The plant itself,
with its regular shoots like a miniature tree, and red berries,
is one of the most graceful shrubs I know ; and as between
the rows of coffee-trees they usually plant plantains and
bananas, these with their enormous clusters of yellow fruits
and their leaves of some six or eight feet in length, add
greatly to the effect, and give the country the appearance
of a large fruit garden. Moreover, as it is necessary to
plant the mango, and other large fast-growing trees, to pro-
tect the ripening berry from the deluging rains and scorch-
ing heats, whenever you pass a coffee plantation, even in the
hottest day in the midst of summer, when the whole face
of the country is parched up and of an unhealthy brown

* Slavery has since been abolished in Venezuela.

VENEZUELA.

color, the eye is continually refreshed by the cool, verdant
appearance of these shaded gardens."

I may add that the coffee of Venezuela is of various
qualities, according to whether it is raised in Tierra Caliente
or Tierra Fria, id est, coffee of the low, warm valleys, or
coffee of mountainous districts ; this last is superior to the
former, and bears in consequence the highest price in the
market. Again, cafe trillado, and cafe descerezado, which
means coffee dried in the berry as it is gathered, and husked
afterwards by a tread-mill composed of a heavy wooden
wheel revolving in a circular trough of masonry ; and coffee
deprived at once of its pulpy covering by machinery as
soon as it is picked, dried afterwards in the sun upon ex-
tensive platforms of masonry called patios, and passed
through different sets of machinery to deprive the grain or
bean of the adhering shell and pellicle. The coffee thus pre-
pared is superior in quality to that which is trillado for
want of means on the part of the planter to put up the ex-
pensive works required for this operation, and therefore
bears a higher price.

Interspersed with these plantations are others of no less
importance to the industry of these valleys, such as indigo,
cotton, indian-corn, wheat and tobacco, all of them requiring
the same share of careful cultivation and intelligent manage-
ment. " The road we were following," continues Sullivan,
" was so well kept and so well wooded, and the hedges so
neatly clipped, that I could hardly sometimes help fancying
myself riding down some country lanes in England. We
followed one lime hedge, which enclosed a coffee plantation,

VENEZUELA. xl

for upwards of two miles. It was the most perfectly kept
hedge I had seen in any country ; it was four or five feet
high and about three feet thick, and throughout its whole
length, I don't believe there was a single flaw through which
a dog could have forced its way. Several slaves were em-
ployed in trimming it. In fact, in this climate, where the
growth of all inanimate nature is unceasing, and so rapid,
it must employ several hands continually to keep it in such
beautiful order. The scent of the lime as we approached it
from some parched country we had been crossing previous-
ly, was most delicious."

As there is nothing to interest us in the towns along
this route, we will pass by San Mateo, La Victoria and
Turmero, all of them pleasantly surrounded by plantations
until we reach Maracay, the point of our destination. On
our way thither, we come up with that giant of the vege-
table world, the Saman de Gflere, so well described by
Humboldt in his Travels, and subsequently by Sullivan.
As their statements are corroborative of the facts given else-
where by me respecting these enormous but most graceful
mimosas, I will here use the language of the last mentioned
traveller about that of the hacienda de Guere.

" Soon after leaving Turmero we caught sight of the far-
famed Saman de Guere, and in about an hour's time arrived
at the hamlet of Giiere, from whence it takes its name. It
is supposed to be the oldest tree in the world, for so great
was the reverence of the Indians for it on account of its age
at the time of the Spanish conquest, that the Government
issued a decree for its protection from all injury, and it has

Xlii VENEZUELA.

ever since "been public property. It shows no sign what-
ever of decay, but it is as fresh and green as it was most
probably a thousand years ago. The trunk of this magnifi-
cent tree is only sixty feet high by thirty feet in circumfer-
ence, so that it is not so much the enormous size of the
Saman de Gtiere that constitutes its great attraction, as the
wonderful spread of its magnificent branches, and the per-
fect dome-like shape of its head, which is so exact and regu-
lar, that one could almost fancy some extinct race of giants
had been exercising their topiarian art upon it. The cir-
cumference of this dome is said to be nearly six hundred
feet, and the measure of its semicircular head very nearly
as great. The saman is a species of mimosa, and what is
curious and adds greatly to its beauty and softness is, that
the leaves of this giant of nature are as small and delicate
as those of the silver willow, and are equally as sensitive to
every passing breeze."

And now for the most picturesque of all the towns on
our long ride, Maracay, not on account of any architectural
display about its buildings, for it has no pretensions of this
kind, but for its many gardens, each house being literally
embowered in the choicest productions of the tropics in the
way of fruits, such as orange, lime and lemon trees, both
sweet and sour ; caimito or star-apple, a creamy and lus-
cious fruit growing upon one of the most beautiful trees
with which I am acquainted ; the same might be said of
two other fruit-trees cultivated in these gardens, the
mamon and cotopriz, both bearing great bunches of an oval
fruit the size of a pigeon's egg, olive-green in the former,

VENEZUELA. xliii

and bright yellow in the latter, containing a kernel envel-
oped in a sweet, sub-acid pulp ; bread-fruit trees of two
kinds and accordingly distinguished as fruta de pan and
pan de palo, bread-fruit and bread-tree — the former be-
ing a large pulpy and greenish fruit very like an Osage
orange but larger, containing great numbers of chestnut-like
seeds, which roasted or boiled taste very much like bread,
and the latter a fruit precisely like its congener in appear-
ance, but destitute of seeds, which assimilates it still more
to the " staff of life " when boiled or baked, for it is beau-
tifully white and compact inside.

In addition to the foregoing, these gardens offer you a
fine display of other tropical trees no less esteemed for
their grateful shade and their delicious fruits, such as
sapotes and sapodillas, both elegant in form as well as in
bearing ; and so is also the splendid mamey apple-tree
(mamea Americana) bearing great quantities of large, round
and heavy fruits, brown outside, and golden-yellow within,
from which marmalades and other delicacies are made by
the charming Maracayeras.

The family to which the famous chirimoya belongs
(anonaciae) have also three other representatives hardly
inferior to that " master-piece of nature," viz. ; the guana-
bana (anona muricata) or sour-sop — an ugly name in Eng-
lish for such fine fruit — from which a most cooling drink is
made, and still finer ices ; the custard-apple, which needs no
further explanation than its name to recommend it ; and
the rinon, (anona squamosa) also a custardy kindney-like
fruit, hence its name.

VENEZUELA.

Butter being expensive, and difficult to keep in this
climate, nature has provided a substitute for it in the fruit
of the fine tree (Persea gratissima), consecrated, as the
name implies, to Perseus, the son of Jupiter and Danae ;
thus showing the wisdom of the botanist over the less cul-
tivated English settlers of the Caribean islands, who call it
alligator-pear, I presume, from the fact of its being indige-
nous to a country abounding in saurian reptiles, although I
am of opinion that a creature of this sort would rather
prefer a more substantial morsel in the shape of a fat
Briton, to a fruit which is well adapted to the taste of
demigods. In shape it resembles a large pear, but the
interior of its rind is lined with a marrow-like substance
of a yellowish color, which assimilates very nearly to but-
ter, the place of which it supplies at the breakfast-table. It
is, in fact, vegetable-butter, and many prefer it to the or-
dinary kind.

The extensive family of leguminous or pod-bearing trees
also grace these gardens with three additional members re-
markable for fine foliage and useful products, such as the
algarroba, with hard-shelled pods, containing a number of
brown, round seeds or beans — also very hard, enveloped
in a farinaceous and very nutricious fecula ; a fine aromatic
resin, good for varnishes, exudes from the trunk and
branches of this tree, and a still finer one can be extracted
from its horny pericarp by infusion in alcohol or other ex-
tractive medium ; guamos (Inga) of various kinds, with
pellucid pods one and two feet in length, containing a
row of beans enveloped in white, cottony pulp, most grate-

VENEZUELA. xv

ful to the taste; and the unrivalled tamarind, either as
regards beauty of foliage, brilliancy of blossoms, or the
delicacy of its acidulous pulpy pods ; these are candied
either in a green state or when fully ripe, affording in the
latter case a most refreshing drink to the fever-stricken in
this climate, when made into a decoction. In blossom, the
tamarind-tree is one of the most charming objects to behold,
for amid its feathery, dark-green foliage, somewhat similar
to that of the hemlock, issues a profusion of golden-yellow
branches of delicate flowers, almost dazzling to the eyes.

The coco-palm, although far away from the sea-coast, its
native habitat, also flourishes in great perfection, contribut-
ing not a little to the splendor of the vegetation in these
truly tropical gardens, with its glorious crown of mon-
ster leaves. And last, though not least, the plantain and
banana claim here the supremacy which everyone . iccords
them over all productions of the tropics. A few pli nts of
each only are sufficient to supply a whole fam'ly with '^read,
vegetables, fruit, and preserves of various V inds. '* We
might be surprised," observes Humboldt, "&t the * mall
extent of these cultivated spots, if we did not re collect that
an acre planted with plantains produces nearer twt nty
times as much food as the same space sown with c orn. In
Europe, our wheat, barley, and rye cover vast sp ices >f
ground ; and in general the arable lands touch each othe r
whenever the inhabitants live upon corn. It is diherenv,
under the torrid zone, where man obtains food from plants
which yield more abundant and earlier harvests. In th^sp
favored climates the fertility of the soil is proportioned to

VENEZUELA.

the heat and humidity of the atmosphere. An immense
population finds abundant nourishment within a narrow
space covered with plantains, casava, yams, and maize." *

Well has the immortal bard of the Torrid Zone f sung the
marvellous exuberance of this plant in the following lines,
which I regret to be unable to translate.

Y para ti el banano,

Desinaya al peso de su dulce carga.

El banano, primero

De cuantos concedio bellos presentes

Providencia a las gentes

Del Ecuador feliz con mano larga ;

No ya de humanas artes obligado

El premio rinde opimo ;

No es a la podadera, no al arado,

Deudor de su racimo.

Escasa industria bastale cual puede

Robar a sus fatigas mano esclava ;

Crece veloz, y cuando exhausto acaba,

Adulta prole en torno le sucede."

Silva d la Zona Torrida.

Water being abundant throughout these gardens by the
provident care of the inhabitants in bringing it in flowing
streams from a great distance, they present at all times of
the year, even during the driest months of summer, the per-
petual spring-like verdure which constitutes their. principal
charm. Not far from here is the fine lake of Tacarigua or

* " Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America,"
f Andres Bello.

VENEZUELA.

Valencia, which by its gradual but marked evaporation, is
constantly adding to the already extensive area of fertile
land nowhere to be found like it in the wide world, and
which doubtless extorted, even from an Englishman, the fol-
lowing confession:

" It is a great pity Venezuela is so much out of the
high roads of travel, and that the inconveniences, for Eu-
ropeans, of getting at it, are so great. It is, in my
opinion, the most beautiful country, as regards climate,
scenery, and productions, in the world. The inhabitants are
intelligent, civil, and honest ; and although there is no ex-
cessive wealth in the country, there is, on the other hand,
no great poverty, and actual want is unknown, where beef
can be procured to any amount for a half penny a pound,
and plantains and bananas almost for nothing. The inns
are excellent, and travelling perfectly safe. You may, on
the sides of its precipitous valleys, in a few hours, ascend
from the productions of the torrid zone to those of the frigid.
You may, if you like, dine off beefsteak and potatoes, cooled
down with French claret or real London stout ; ' or, if you
prefer it, you may, in imitation of Leo X. and the Emperor
Vitellius, feast your guests on joints of monkey and jaguar,
and have your entremets of parrots' tongues and humming-
birds' breasts washed down with sparkling pulque, tapped
from the graceful maguey growing at your very door. In
fact, there is no luxury you cannot enjoy at a moderate
expense. Servants are cheap ; and you can buy a horse for
five shillings, though it will cost you fifteen to have him
shod ! The shooting on the llanos and in the mountains,

VENEZUELA.

according to all accounts, is very grand. The woods are
filled with jaguar and ocelot, to say nothing of snakes, and
the plains with deer and wild cattle.

" If any kind fairy were to offer me the sovereignty of
any part of the world out of Europe, with power to rule it
as I choose, my choice would certainly fall on Venezuela. I
am fully convinced it only wants a government strong and
stable enough to ensure the necessary protection to capital
and property, to render it one of the most flourishing coun-
tries in the world. I look back upon the few weeks I spent
there as amongst the most enjoyable I ever passed ; and if
ever any opportunity was to offer of revisiting that delicious
country, I should do so with pleasure. Any traveller, wish-
ing to judge for himself, has only to go by the West India
steamer to St. Thomas, where he meets the sailing-packet
for La Guaira, which he reaches in four or five days ; and
with a few letters of introduction, or even without any,
hospitality will meet him on all hands, and he will never
feel a moment hang heavy on his hands." *

And now, seated under the refreshing foliage of these
paradisaical gardens, rather than expose you to the dangers
of a demi-savage country, I will recount to you the adven-
tures of a former journey, and the peculiarities of a still
more wonderful region.

* Sullivan. — Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAOB

1. Frontispiece— Map of Venezuela.

2. Caracas, ..... xxviii

3. Morros de San Juan, . . . . .19

4. The Llanos, ...... 26

5. Pounding Corn, ...... 36

6. Striped Catfish, . 61

7. TheCaribe, ...... 63

8. The Electric Eel, ..... 68

9. Troop of Wild Horses, ..... 84

10. A Prairie on Fire, ..... 97

11. Encounter with a Crocodile, . . . .114

12. TheSaman, ...... 122

13. Garzero, . . . . . . .137

14. The Rodeo, 175

15. Training the Boys, ...... 200

16. Mata-caballo, ...... 210

17. Coral Snake, 212

18. Aristolochia Apurensis, . . . , . 219

19. The Jaguar, ...... 222

20. The Puma, ...... 288

21. Garzoneando, . . . . . • .24*2

22. The Armadillo, ... 245

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAOB

23. The Great Ant-Eater, . . . . .257

24. Among the Crocodiles, ..... 281

25. Young Crocodile, ...... 282

26. Crocodile Basking in the Sun, . . . . 292

27. Our Leader, . . . . . : 829

28. Capture of Spanish Gunboats by Llanero Cavalry, . 350

29. Dr. Gallegos Sewing the Belly of a Wounded Horse, . 365

30. Scenes at El Dorado, ..... 391

31. Arrow used in Turtle Shooting, .... 448

32. Homeward Bound, . . . . . 448

TRAVELS A1SD ADVENTURES.

CHAPTER I.

THE DEPARTURE.

" Y grej'ea van sin cuento
Paciendo tu vcrdura deede el llano
Quo tieiie por lindero el horizonte,
Hasta el erguido monte
De inaccesible nieve siempre cano."

AKDRES BELLO, Silva d Ja Zona Torrida.

ON a fine morning of a tropical December month,
a jolly cavalcade, or rather a heterogeneous assemblage
from the various castes composing the bulk of the pop-
ulation in the Venezuelan Eepublic, was to be seen
traversing the streets of the beautiful town of Mara-
cay, in the direction of the road leading to the Llanos
or Pampas of Apure, a region widely celebrated for its
wildness, its dangers, and the many exploits enacted
therein. There the father of the writer owned exten-
sive cattle-farms, and the aforesaid company proposed
spending the remainder of the summer season in
hunting among the untamed herds constituting the
wealth and commerce of that wild region.

I shall never forget the exciting scenes of that
eventful day ; it forms one of the most pleasing epi-
sodes of my life. Full well do I remember also the
picturesqueness of the variegated costumes of the

2 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

riders ; their red and blue ponchos flowing in the
wind as they cantered to and fro through the unusu-
ally animated streets of the little town, taking leave
of their friends, and provisioning their saddle-bags
with the necessaries they required; the trampling
and neighing of horses ; the parting adieux and wav-
ing of handkerchiefs in the hands of lively brunettes,
as we defiled under the windows and balconies of the
Calle Keal, crowded with anxious relatives, friends,
and sweethearts of many a gallant cavalier, who
might never return from his distant and perilous
journey. For my part, I confess, that although for
sundry reasons I regretted departing from our roman-
tic abode in the valleys of Aragua, still, so great was
my desire to visit the land of the wild bull and croco-
dile, that for several nights before leaving home I
dreamed of nothing but wild scenes and terrible en-
counters with the lords of the savannas.

The method of conducting a South American
cattle farm is entirely different from that usually
practised among the more peaceful scenes of the
North American prairies. Here the cattle, accus-
tomed from their birth to the friendly voice of man,
readily obey his commands and follow him instinc-
tively wherever he leads them. In the plains of
South America, on the contrary, the herds hear no
other than the voice of Nature in her sublimest
moods, in the thunders of the storm, and when in
her vernal showers she calls upon the crocodiles and
other drowsy reptiles, awakening them from their
periodical summer's lethargy ; and nightly the roar
and screams of savage beasts answering each other in

THE DEPARTURE. 3

the darkness. The cattle, thus roaming over exten-
sive plains, and free of all restraint, necessarily require
to be occasionally collected together for the purpose
of branding and marking the young calves, which in-
crease there with astonishing rapidity. If this pre-
caution were neglected, they would in time become
so dispersed over those boundless plains, as to be al-
together irreclaimable. This operation cannot be ac-
complished, however, without a great number of men
and horses, both well trained to and thoroughly ac-
quainted with this demi-savage occupation. There-
fore we mustered now quite a little army of Llane-
ras, or natives of the Llanos, who are the only indi-
viduals capable of prosecuting and successfully per-
forming the arduous duties appertaining to these cat-
tle forays.

Our retinue presented pretty much the appearance
of an oriental caravan ; it consisted of more than a
hundred individuals of all grades and colors ; from
the bright, rubicund faces of merry England's sons,
to the jetty phiz of the native African, all of whom,
notwithstanding, fraternized as though sprung from
the same race.

Our company, moreover, had been organized as
if for a military campaign, and formed the nucleus of
a more extensive camp, to be increased by additions
from different places along the route. The leader —
General Paez — besides having acquired in early life
a practical knowledge of this -peculiar warfare, pos-
sessed in addition the rare gift of being — in the opin-
ion of many — "the first rider in South America,"

4 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

and withal the most accomplished Llanero in the Re-
public. His dispositions were accordingly made in
a manner most likely to insure success in this strange
campaign ; passing in review every person and every
object, with as scrupulous care as he bestowed upon
the legions under his command in the long strife for
his country's freedom ; distributing each particular
horse with reference to the skill and special duties of
his rider, and every load according to the strength of
each beast of burden.

Next in importance to the Leader was a Surgeon
and Physician, whose valuable services were to be
frequently called into requisition. Although we were
not now to encounter powder and ball, we had to
deal with no less dangerous enemies in the form of
wild bulls, snakes, and crocodiles, without reckoning
the pestiferous marshes of the country.

After our Surgeon came the Treasurer ; his duty
was to conduct safely the military chest of the expe-
dition, consisting of sundry bags of hard dollars, pon-
chos, checkered linen handkerchiefs of the peculiar
pattern worn with so much pride by Llaneros on the
head, knives, sword blades, and various other articles
of barter which they prize more than money itself,
and for the attainment of which they labor hard and
even expose their lives.

To me was assigned the honorable post of Secre-
tary to the expedition, whose pleasant duty was to
keep its records, and at times those of the political
" Bulls and Bears " of the country at large. At-
tached to this office were an English amateur of wild
sports, an English artist of considerable merit, and a

THE DEPARTURE. 5

few others, who, like myself, not being sufficiently
trained to the hard operations of the field, were forced
to be content with the tamer occupations of the cattle
farm, and only an occasional foray among the smaller
game of the savannas.

I will mention two other individuals, who, al-
though filling less exalted positions than the preced-
ing— being the cook and the washerman — were very
necessary to our comfort ; not that we felt over-scru-
pulous with regard to the dressing of either ourselves
or that of the savory dishes of the Llanos — where I
relished a beafsteak au naturel with as much gusto
as though prepared by the Delmonicos or Maillards
of New York— but an early cup of coffee was a lux-
ury not to be despised, and an occasional scouring of
our scanty wardrobe was equally an essential. The
cook was a mulatto by birth, whose name — Monico —
bore some similarity to that of the distinguished
caterer of William street, and was as great a favorite
with us as the latter is among the " down town "
gentry of the great city, not only on account of his
good nature and skill in the preparation of the deli-
cious beverage before mentioned,

" que en los festines
La fiebre insana templara a Lieo,"

but also for the aid he lent his companions in mend-
ing their tattered garments, being as accomplished a
tailor and shoemaker as cook. Gaspar, the washer-
man, was a lame negro rather advanced in years, but
with all the vivacity of his race still sparkling in his
eyes. He had earned some reputation in his time as
a brave soldier during the protracted war of Inde-

6 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

peudence, but, disabled now by a bullet and sundry
tiger scars, testimonials of his good service in the
cause of humanity, could perform no. other work than
the rather feminine one allotted to him on this occa-
sion. He, however, possessed other accomplishments,
among which the chief was that of recounting his ad-
ventures in the wars and with the wild beasts of the
field, which made him a desirable companion and
general favorite.

Poor fellows ! they are both dead, and their bones,
as well as those of most of that little band of heroes,
are now bleaching in the hot sun of the tropics,
amid the waving grass of those savannas once ren-
dered famous by their deeds of valor and enlivened
by their chivalrous songs. After faithfully following
their leader through dangers and hardships no less
terrible than those of the battle-field, one by one they
fell, not by foe " in battle arrayed," nor the terrible
stroke of the wild bull, but by the assassin's treach-
erous hand, and those of the unprincipled myrmidons
of military misrule ; not because of their political in-
fluence in the councils of the Nation, but for being
the faithful followers of their beloved Chieftain.

The reader has now been introduced to those con-
stituting the Staff of the expedition ; but in addition
a host of attendants and idlers formed the rank and
file of this motley assemblage. Each one of these had
a special duty to perform. Some were asistentes, or
the personal attendants of the former, as no bianco
ventures to travel in the Llanos without some cicerone
of the country to guide him over the trackless wastes,
to saddle his horse, and see that both horse and rider

THE DEPARTURE. y

are comfortably quartered for the night. Others were
appointed to conduct the beasts of burden, of which
there were a formidable array ; while the most ex-
perienced riders were intrusted with the care and
guidance of our madrina, or pack of supernumerary
horses, which formed by far the most efficient ele-
ment of our expedition.

Our drove consisted of about two hundred spirited
chargers, as swift and slim as any that ever tramped
the hot sands of Yemen or the Sahara ; these were to
be reinforced with fresh relays from the cattle farms,
to supply the place of those which might be carried
off from various causes during those exciting hunts.

The only method of travelling as yet adopted in
the country is on horseback. This is at first somewhat
fatiguing to those unaccustomed to long journeys ;
but the traveller soon becomes inured to it, and ends
by preferring it to any other, on account of the exhil-
arating sensation of independence he experiences ; at
all events, it is the most convenient that can be adopted
in a country which, like the Pampas, is subject to
vast inundations, and overgrown in all its extent by
the rank herbage of the savannas. On the mountains,
mules are usually preferred for their surefootedness,
as also for their astonishing endurance of hunger and
fatigue ; but in the Pampas, where journeys must be
accomplished with great expedition and rapidity, they
are comparatively worthless from the shortness of
their gait, and also because their hoofs become soft-
ened by the marshy soil which everywhere prevails,
they being never shod, owing to a mistaken notion
of the riders, who believe that by so doing the sure-

g TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

footedness of the animal is impaired. The best horses,
consequently, had been selected on this occasion, but
were not to be saddled until we reached the Llanos.
These were all collected into a madrina or drove, to-
gether with the vaqueros or horses destined for the
chase, and placed under the charge of half a dozen
experienced Llaneros, who were to drive them loose
across the country. In the mean time we would per-
form on mules the first four days of our journey,
which lay across the rough and hilly country be-
tween the valleys and the plains. As beasts of bur-
den, mules are particularly serviceable ; in view of
this we had collected a pack of about twenty for the
purpose of transporting our loads, consisting partly,
as I have observed, of various descriptions of goods
for distribution among the Llaneros, in part payment
of their wages ; but the greater number were laden
with our own chattels and provisions ; for although
the Llanos are justly regarded as a land of plenty, the
habitations are yet so widely distant, that it is expe-
dient to provide for all contingencies.

Our road, at times, lay across extensive fields of
sugar cane, indigo, and tobacco ; or through vast
plantations of Erithynas (bucarales) raised for the
protection of the shade-loving Cacao trees, loaded
with the luscious bean that yields its " divine food " *
to gods and mortals. At other times, extensive tracks
of waste lands (rastrojos) overgrown with a luxuriant
vegetation, intercepted the line of our march, giving

* Linnasus, in his enthusiasm for the delightful beverage obtained from
the cacao bean, named the plant that produces it theobroma — food for
the gods.

THE DEPARTURE. 9

the country a wild and desolate aspect. Land is so
cheap and plentiful in Venezuela, that it is always
more advantageous for the planter, whenever the
land has become exhausted with repeated cultivation,
to clear a new patch of ground for his crop, than to
trouble himself about restoring to the ground by ar-
tificial means what nature will provide in the course
of time. The rapidity with which a patch of waste
land, that only a year or two before had been aban-
doned as unserviceable, becomes covered with an ex-
uberant vegetation in the tropics, is quite extraordi-
nary. Hardly have the plough and hoe of the indus-
trious husbandman ceased to harass the land with
their incessant toil, when an entirely different crop
of indigenous plants, which had been silently strug-
gling for existence, now make their appearance, and
change the aspect of the landscape with new forms
of vegetation. Insignificant weeds at first, scarcely
worth noticing, they soon attain sufficient strength to
arrest the progress of any stragglers that might have
remained of the plantation. In a short time they
have acquired the size and form of well-developed
trees, with boughs spreading far above a man on
horseback; and before two summers have elapsed,
not a vestige remains of what was once a flourishing
plantation. An endless variety of creepers, such as
convolvulus, bignonias, and passion flowers, now find
support among their numerous branches, forming
with them the most picturesque bowers and arcades,
or hanging by their sides in graceful garlands and
festoons of the most exquisite beauty. Our troop of
supernumerary horses, as if unwilling to leave behind
1*

10 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

these delightful retreats, did not fail to profit by the
tangled nature of the cover, frequently eluding the
vigilance of the drivers, and dashing forward when-
ever they saw an opening to decamp. The most
skilful management on the part of the drivers was
then required to disentangle them from the thick
jungle ; otherwise we should have arrived at the end
of our journey with less than half their number. It
was quite amusing to see those reckless fellows glid-
ing here and there through the tangled woods in full
pursuit of the refractory animals, now hanging from
one leg down the sides of their steeds, or stretched
over their necks to avoid being lifted from the saddle
by the intervening branches. In spite of all precau-
tion, and the vigilance of their drivers, we missed
several valuable hunters in the course of the journey,
every one of which made his way back to ihepotreros
or old grazing grounds with unerring precision. So
remarkable is this peculiarity in horses of one place
driven across a strange country, and the cunning
they display in effecting their escape, that although
we left instructions along the route to secure all de-
serters, most of those we missed at a considerable
distance from Maracay, made their way back across
the fields, avoiding in their flight the public roads
and populated districts through which we had passed.
Late in the evening we reached San Luis de Cura,
a town of some importance on our route. Although
we had there many friends of whose hospitality we
could have availed ourselves, we preferred passing
the night at a Pulperia, or country inn, a short dis-
tance in advance — hotels being yet unknown in that

THE DEPARTURE. H

part of the country. Our numerous retinue, and
especially our horses, accustomed to the unrestrained
freedom of the potrero — an enclosed field attached to
the Pulperia — precluded all idea of seeking accom-
modations within the narrow limits of a city residence.
Declining, therefore, all invitations to that effect, we
pushed on to a place called El Kodeo, a few miles
further.

San Luis de Cura — or Yilla de Cura, as it is
usually called — is a sort of entrepot to which the
people of the Llanos resort from time to time to bar-
ter the products of their farms for those of foreign
manufacture, retailed there by country traders. It
is, in fact, the connecting link between the agricul-
tural and pastoral sections of the republic ; hence we
find there the strangest admixture of wild and civil-
ized manners and costumes curiously intermingled in
all the pursuits and vocations of the people. Thus we
often meet with persons of respectability clad in the
elegant city dress, and riding a horse entirely capar-
isoned in the gaudy attire of the Llanos, and vice
versa.

Our accommodations at the inn were not of the
most inviting description, neither its apartments nor
the potrero affording much comfort to the weary car-
avan after their long ride. A stony bank on the
slope of the barren hill for couch and the broad dome
of heaven for roof, with not even posts enough from
which to sling our hammocks, was all the hospitality
we received at the Pulperia. We slept soundly not-
withstanding, softening our beds of pebbles by spread-
ing our ponchos over them,' while each man's saddle,

12 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

serving at once as pillow and larder, furnished us
with supper on this occasion. The llanero sad-
dle is admirably adapted for the rough journeys of
the country, and though somewhat ponderous, ren-
ders good service to the wandering Llanero in his
long peregrinations. These saddles, usually styled
vaqueras, in allusion to the occupations of the riders,
appear to be modelled after the gay accoutrements of
the Arabs ; the same profusion of silver ornament and
bright-colored trimmings of morocco, the high peak
in front, and still higher cantle behind. A comfort-
able pellon or shabrack, made either of an entire
sheepskin or horse hair dyed black and neatly braided
at one end, covers the entire seat, and hangs from it
in graceful folds. Numbers of bags and pockets —
lolsas — made of the same material as the saddle, and
in keeping with the rest, are affixed to it for the pur-
pose of stowing away all those little commodities so
essential to the traveller on a long journey, such as
papelon, a sort of brown sugar in cakes resembling
maple sugar, cheese, cakes of Indian corn, and aguar-
diente, a beverage equally celebrated for its use and
its abuse. The stirrups, which are usually carved from
a block of wood, present the peculiarity of being
longer and heavier than any ever adopted by eques-
trians. Although termed africanos, they are just the
reverse of their cognomens, as can be seen by com-
paring the subjoined designs.

An expert rider never places his whole foot in the
stirrup, as is the case with the Arabs, but holds it
with his big toe, so as to disentangle himself readily
in case of a fall. This habit gives a crooked shape to

THE DEPARTURE. 13

the feet and legs of the rider, which peculiarity en-
titles him to the credit of being a good horseman.

The carvings on some of these stirrups are very
fanciful, and display considerable taste. Their beauty
is thought to consist chiefly in the two triangular ap-
pendages at the bottom with which they urge on their
horses.

The cobija or poncho is also a most indispensable
commodity on these long journeys ; and no traveller
should omit providing himself with one, especially
during the rainy season. It is fully six feet square,
with a hole in the centre to admit the head, and its
office is twofold, viz., to protect the rider and his
cumbrous equipment from the heavy showers and
dews of the tropics, and to spread under him when
there is no convenience for slinging the hammock.
It also serves as a protection from the scorching rays
of the sun, experience having taught its wearer that
a thick woollen covering keeps the body moist and
cool by day, and warm by night. The poncho used
in Venezuela is made double, by sewing together two
different blankets, the outside one being dark blue
and the inner one bright red, which colors, as is well
known, are differently acted upon by light and heat.
By exposing alternately the sides of the poncho to

14: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the light according to the state of the weather, those
modifications of temperature most agreeable to the
body are obtained. Thus, when the day is damp and
cloudy, the dark side of the poncho, which absorbs
the most heat, is turned towards the light, while the
reverse is the case when the red surface is presented
to the sun. On the same principle, the manta, or
white linen poncho, is worn when the sun is very
powerful, the color in this instance repelling the rays
of light more readily than the red surface of woollen
materials. The mania, is a very expensive luxury on
account of the embroideries that usually decorate it,
and which might rival in elegance the finest skirt
of a 'New York or Parisian ~belle. When worn by a
gallant cavalier on a sunny day, it presents in the
distance a very picturesque appearance, not unlike
the graceful bornouse of the Arabs.

Equally useful and expensive is the hammock, one
of the few articles of native manufacture produced in
Yenezuela, and one which has thus far baffled the
ingenuity of foreign weavers to imitate. It is woven
by hand on looms of rude construction in very tasteful
designs, and trimmed with fringings of the most com-
plicated pattern. A fine hammock costs from fifty
to sixty dollars.

It may truly be said that with hammock, poncho,
and the saddle with its array of pockets, &c., the
roving dwellers of the pampas are at home wherever
they may be. They are, in fact, the tent, bed, and
valise best adapted to the country, affording them all
the comfort that a princely rajah could experience
under his gorgeous panoply of oriental magnificence,

THE DEPARTURE. 15

and possessing, moreover, the advantage of being
easily conveyed from place to place, in a small compass,
by the riders. The hammock and the poncho usu-
ally form a bundle behind the saddle ; with them the
traveller makes himself a tent when camping out,
by stretching out a rope from end to end of the ham-
mock, over which the poncho is thrown at oblique
angles, and then tied securely to the rope. Under it
the traveller may now defy the storm, and even Old
Boreas himself, as the stronger the tent is impelled to
and fro, the more lulling to the sleeper will be the
motion imparted to it from the outside.

It is surprising to see a horse of so small stature as
those from the Llanos generally are, carry on his
back both the weight of the rider and his ponderous
equipment for such considerable distances ; but the
fact is, that the loads are so well distributed and
counterbalanced, that the animals feel no material in-
convenience therefrom.

CHAPTER II.

THE MOREOS.

EAKLY the next morning we were aroused by the
trampling of horses and tinkling of stirrups close to
our resting places, apprising us that the hour of de-
parture was near at hand. To travel with comfort in
those hot' regions, it is necessary to make the most of
the absence of the sun, before its rays descend to the
earth in glowing streams, parching the body and
spirits of the traveller. Our people, therefore, com-
menced to saddle and load as early as three o'clock
A. M. The operation usually .occupied considerable
time, as each animal had to be hunted in the dark, as
well as its accoutrements. The baggage mules, espe-
cially, required more than ordinary skill in replacing
and adjusting the loads upon their backs by means of a
hundred turns of the lazos^ or raw-hide halters. And
even after the greatest precautions, the vicious creatures
endeavored to displace their loads by running against
each other or rolling on the ground, to the inconceiv-
able disgust of the drivers, who were often compelled
to alight from their sumpters to put things to rights.

Our road lay this day across a wild and desolate
valley, presenting the appearance of having once been

THE MORROS If

the scene of violent convulsions of nature, judging
from the distorted masses of granite and gneiss piled
along the route. The morning, though moonless, was
bright with stars, which in those latitudes sparkle like
diamonds in a setting of azure. The air was balmy ;
and the solitude of the spot, only broken by the occa-
sional shriek of a night owl, or the refreshing murmur
of a mountain stream, was truly sublime.

Slowly winding our course down the rugged sides
of a deep ravine, we came suddenly in view of a most
glorious spectacle. The delicate tints of dawn were
already gilding the rugged crest of the distant moun-
tains ; above these rose in silent grandeur what ap-
peared at first a heavy cloud of an intense blue, the
irregular outlines of which set in bold relief against
the transparent sky, forming the background to the
picture. I eagerly spurred my mule forward to gain
an eminence from whence I could contemplate more
advantageously that magnificent spectacle, when, to
my great astonishment, I discovered that, what I had
supposed a cloud, was in fact the famous promontory
known as the Morros de San Juan, the singular con-
formation of which has given rise to many specula-
tions and legendary dissertations on the part of sa-
vants and others less versed in scientific researches.
When the sun rose above the horizon, a more extra-
ordinary scene was never unfolded to the eye of the
spectator. The huge and rugged mountain, some
thousand feet high, stood in the midst of a desolate
gulf, apparently of volcanic origin ; while the vege-
tation, stunted and scrubby for want of adequate
nourishment, contrasted singularly with the granite

18 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

masses scattered all over the valley. The meandering
rivulet of La Puerta, twice the scene of sanguinary
conflicts between patriots and Spaniards, threaded its
sparkling way through that Yalley of Death, to mix
its waters with those of the beautiful Guarico in the
distance. In both of those engagements the arms of
Spain were victorious ; but, as often happened in
those days of guerra d muerte, the victors steeped
their laurels in the blood of the vanquished with
unsparing hand. These triumphs were shared alter-
nately by the monster Boves and the sanguinary
Morillo. It would be difficult to find two more
bloody wretches than these myrmidons of despotism,
whose very names are to this day the avenging cry
against the race from which they both sprang. The
forces opposed to them in these engagements hardly
amounted to one-half their own numbers ; but the
patriots under Bolivar accepted the battle with the
despair of men who have no alternative between
death and an ignominious yoke. It is asserted that
the rivulet became, on both occasions, completely
glutted with the gore and dead bodies of the van-
quished. Morillo had a very narrow escape from the
lance of the famous Juan Pablo Farfan, who delibe-
rately attacked the Spanish chieftain in the midst
of his staff. Although the bold Llanero succeeded
in piercing the groin of the Spaniard with his lance,
the wound was not sufficiently deep to cause his
death.

The rugged crest of the mountain surrounded by
an atmosphere resplendently clear, the wild and

THE MORROS. 19

shattered rocks, piled like the giant skeletons of an
extinct race, together with the painful associations
connected with the spot, made an impression upon
my mind not easily forgotten.

Although I had often experienced a keen desire
to see this natural wonder of my country, I could not
repress a feeling of regret at the recollection of the
sanguinary scenes enacted on this spot, and that my
first impressions "of astonishment should be replaced
by others of a less pleasing character.

On awakening from the reverie into which the
scene had plunged rne, I perceived for the first time
that I was alone, my less contemplative companions
having proceeded on their journey while I was ab-
sorbed in wonder. I felt glad of my solitude, for the
very silence seemed to breathe a prayer to the Al-
mighty for the martyred children of Liberty before
one of his most glorious temples.

20 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

We reached the village of San Juan in time to
breakfast at the house of our excellent friend Don
Jose Pulido, a gentleman of most amiable and hospi-
table disposition. While they prepared our morning
meal, I repaired to the outskirts of the village to
sketch the Morros, which from the distance appeared
two huge castles in ruins. The continued action of the
waters has furrowed the sides of the mountain — com-
posed principally of a peculiar limestone — into many
fantastic forms. The same wearing action has in like
manner perforated the calcareous rock into a thousand
subterranean passages or chasms of fathomless depth, it
being asserted by persons who have approached suffi-
ciently near the entrance of these caves, that a bowl-
der rolled down the abyss, is never heard to strike
the bottom. I regretted exceedingly that our short
stay at this place would not permit me to visit the
interior of the main entrance to these subterranean
passages, no person ever having ventured within the
dark abode — as it is currently believed — of demons
and the like. As a proof of this assertion, the villa-
gers point out to the inquisitive traveller a spring
issuing from that Tartarus highly charged with sul-
phurated hydrogen gas, the fumes of which are in
themselves sufficiently powerful to convey the idea
that something diabolical must be brewing in the
bowels of the stupendous mountain. The spring,
however, possesses highly medicinal virtues ; on this
account it is often visited by invalids from various
parts of the country, especially those affected with
rheumatic or scrofulous complaints.

During a heavy freshet, the bones of an anted i-

THE MORROS. 21

luvian animal, supposed to be those of a mastodon,
were disinterred by the torrent in the bed of a ravine.
A portion of these bones were sent to us by our zeal-
ous friend Don Jose, as a great curiosity ; as such
they were transferred to the British Minister at Ca-
racas, and finally consigned by him to the great
Museum in London.

The village of San Juan is likewise noted for its
fine climate and the total absence of epidemics. In-
valids affected with pulmonary complaints find there
also an air and temperature most congenial. Beyond
these advantages, San Juan offers no other attrac-
tions to the stranger capable of inducing a longer
sojourn than is absolutely necessary, as not even a
ranch has been raised there for the convenience of
those seeking its beneficent waters.

After partaking of a substantial breakfast, com-
posed of the most popular dishes of the country, such
as carnefrita, sancocho, and some delicious fish from
the river Guarico, we bade adieu to our estimable
host, Don Jose, and continued our journey down the
stony bottom of a narrow quebrada or ravine, noted
for its many windings, and the quantities of sharp
stones that pave the way ; these are evidently fhe
detached fragments of the basaltic formation consti-
tuting the base of the Morros. At Flores, a miser-
able country inn like all the rest along this route, we
stopped a few moments to refresh ourselves with
guarapo, a kind of cider made from the juice of sugar
cane, or by dissolving papelon in water and allowing
it to ferment for a few days. The guarapo of Flores
is celebrated throughout the country, and no person

22 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

passing through this place ever omits to call for it.
"When mixed with aguardiente, it forms what is
termed carabina, (carbine ;) the effects rarely fail to
knock down those who rashly brave its fire.

Our next stopping place was the village of Ortiz,
a little beyond that of Parapara. Taken together,
they might be considered as the Pillars of Her-
cules to the grassy Mediterranean of the Llanos, and
the terminus of civilized pursuits in that quarter, as
there you find the last vestiges of agriculture and the
useful arts. In addition to small patches of sugar
cane and Indian corn raised by the inhabitants for
their own consumption, they excel in the manufac-
ture of leather, saddles, and their appurtenances,
which they sell to all parts of the country. Beyond
this, nothing is to be met with but wild herds of
cattle grazing on prairies or steppes of vast extent,
with the exception of the narrow belt of park-like
scenery intervening between these and a ridge of low,
rocky hills — galeras — which skirts the ancient shore
of the great basin of those pampas. The galeras were
doubtless the natural rampart of that extraordinary
body of waters which, at some remote epoch, must
have filled the space now forming the grazing
grounds of Venezuela, as attested by the nature of
the soil and the organic remains found imbedded in
the clay.

I noticed at Ortiz the same trap formation of the
Morros, with extensive beds of basaltic slate protrud-
ing through the sides of the hills. Entire columns
of this slate, varying from four to five feet in length
by six inches diameter, are used in the village for

THE MORROS. 23

paving the thresholds of houses, their quadrangular
form adapting them perfectly for this purpose with-
out any additional labor after being detached from
the rock. The action of the waters during the untold
lapse of ages, or perhaps the irruptions of the sea it-
self when it beat against the sides of the hills, has
caused the partial disintegration of the rock in many
places, and scattered the debris far and wide over
the surrounding country. Nevertheless, vegetation
seemed nowhere affected in the least by this vast ac-
cumulation of loose stones ; on the contrary, wher-
ever it was favored by the depressions of the ground,
trees of large dimensions, noted for hardness and du-
rability, sprang up, forming dense forests on either
side of the road. Foremost in the long catalogue of
splendid timber trees of Venezuela, we found there
growing in great perfection the Vera, or Lignum
Yitse — Zigophylum arboreum — the wood of which is
so hard that it turns the edge of the best-tempered
tools ; breaking or splitting it seems equally impos-
sible, on account of the interweaving of its fibres,
which cross each other in diagonal layers. This tree
has a wide range over the country, especially near
the sea-coast, which circumstance renders it extremely
useful in the construction of wharves, as well as for
the keels of ships ; the attacks of the teredo or sea-
worm are futile upon the iron network of its fibres,
on which account it can remain under water for an
indefinite period and eventually become petrified.
The useful Guayacan or guaiacum of the arts, a nearly
allied species of this tree, is also found here in the
greatest abundance ; unfortunately it is too short to be

24 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

employed for the same purposes as the former; it
finds, however, numerous applications in naval con-
struction, especially for blocks and pulleys for the
rigging of vessels. Turners employ it likewise for
various articles requiring extreme hardness and a
close grain.

The AlcornoguQ) a most beautiful tree, somewhat
resembling the American elm, and scarcely inferior
to the foregoing, raises here its graceful head above
the rest, affording the cattle a permanent shade even
during the driest seasons. It must not be confounded,
however, with the well-known Spanish oak — Quercus
suber — which yields the cork of commerce. It is
largely employed in the Llanos in the construction of
houses and fences. Braziletto wood — Cesalpinia bra-
ziletto — so celebrated for its beautiful dye, is so abun-
dant here also, that all the fences at Ortiz and Para-
para are made of this valuable dyewood.

The list of useful trees peculiar to this region
could be extended beyond the limits of this chapter,
were it not for the fear of taxing the patience of my '
reader with an abstract nomenclature. I cannot pass
unnoticed, however, two other trees of no less impor-
tance to the natives, on account of their timber and
medicinal properties ; these are the Tacamahaca —
Elaphrium tomentosum — and the tree that yields the
precious balsam of copaiva — Copaifera officinalis. By
making incisions in the trunk and branches of both
these trees, a resinous fluid, possessing great healing
powers when applied to wounds and other ailments
of the flesh, is obtained in great abundance and col-
lected in tin cans placed under the incisions. The

THE MORROS. 25

former is particularly abundant in the province of
Guayana, where it attains to great dimensions. Its
resin, an opaque, lemon-colored substance resembling
wax, is very fragrant, and when mixed with that of
Carana or Algarroba, forms excellent torches which
burn with great brilliancy, and emit a delicious odor.
The bark is also remarkable as affording a material
similar to that employed by the North American In-
dians in the construction of their canoes, and used
similarly by their brethren of the Orinoco for their
light pirogues. With this object the Indian separates
the bark without breaking, and cutting it of the re-
quired dimensions, proceeds to join the extremities
by means of bej'ucos or slender vines, filling the inter-
stices with a little moist clay to throw off the water ;
the whole is then well bound with stronger vines,
and a couple or more sticks are affixed between the
borders of the pirogue to prevent its collapsing
when launched into the broad stream.

CHAPTER III.

THE LLANOS.

WE left Ortiz as usual, very early the next morn-
ing, stumbling here and there amidst the mass of loose
stones which paved the way all along the winding
bed of the quebrada. In proportion as we advanced
on our route, the hills decreased in size, while the
loose stones seemed to increase in quantity. The
splendid groves of hardy and balsamiferous trees,
which near Ortiz formed an almost impenetrable for-
est, gradually became less imposing in appearance,
until they were replaced by thickets of thorny bushes,
chiefly composed of several species of mimosas, with
a delicate and feathery foliage. The traveller accus-
tomed to the shade of a luxuriant vegetation, and to
the sight of cultivated valleys, is struck by the rapid
diminution of the former, and the total disappearance
of the latter, as he emerges from the Galeras of Ortiz :
yet he is somewhat compensated by the almost over-
poweYmg perfume shed by masses of the canary-colored
blossoms with which these shrubs are loaded, from the

THE LLANOS. 27

summits down to the bending branches that trail the
ground at every passing breeze.

Suddenly we entered a widely-extended tract of
level land almost destitute of vegetation. With the
exception of a few clumps of palm-trees with fan-like
leaves, nothing but short grass covered its entire sur-
face, almost realizing the idea of " an ocean covered
with sea-weed." A dense mass of vapor pervading
the atmosphere obscured the horizon, while the fan-
palms, seen from afar, appeared like ships enveloped
in a fog. Gradually the circle of the heavens seemed
to close around us, until we became, as it were, en-
compassed by the sky. We were, in fact, treading
the shores of the great basin of the Llanos, over one
of the ancient shoals or Mesas, which, like successive
terraces, now form the borders of those grassy oceans
known as the Pampas. This was the Mesa de Paya,
the seat of one of the cattle-farms to which we were
bound.

After wandering for nearly three hours over
this monotonous landscape without compass, and
guided only by certain landmarks known to the
vaqueanos, we came unexpectedly upon the borders
of the Mesa, which commands an extensive view of
the lower savannas. As if by magic the dreary scene
changed to one of the most glorious panoramas in
existence. At our feet lay a beautiful expanse of
meadow, fresh and smooth as the best cultivated
lawn, with troops of horses and countless herds of
cattle dispersed all over the plain. Several glitter-
ing ponds, alive with all varieties of aquatic birds,
reflected upon their limpid surface the broad-leaved

28 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

crowns of the fan-palms, towering above verdant
groves of laurel, amyris, and elm-like robles. Further
beyond, and as far as the eye could reach, the undu-
lating plain appeared like a petrified ocean, after the
sweeping tempest.

But I feel that my descriptions fall short of the
reality, and that I am unable to depict the harmo-
nious effects of light and shade, and the blending of
the various tints of green, blue and purple, dispersed
over this extensive panorama ; the gentle undulations
of the plain ; the towering palms gracefully fanning
the glowing atmosphere with their majestic crowns
of broad and shining leaves ; and myriad other beau-
ties difficult to enumerate.

I could scarcely tear myself away from the spot,
so fascinated was I with the novelty of the scene.
My companions, more concerned for the speedy termi-
nation of the journey than the beautiful in nature,
set off at a brisk trot towards the house, which was
at no great distance. Fearing to lose my way among
the intricate paths leading to it, I was compelled to
follow in their wake, stopping occasionally to gaze
once more upon those enchanting "groves, which
seemed to return me to the highly cultivated fields
and green meadows of glorious a Old England,"
whence I had just returned.

On descending to the plain below, my attention
was attracted to an unsightly group of palm-thatched
huts, looking more like huge bee-hives than the
abode of human beings. A formidable fence of palm
trunks surrounded the premises, and several acres of
ground beyond. These were the corrals, or enclosures

THE LLANOS. 29

where the training of the fierce herds was practised
by the hardy dwellers of the Llanos ; but no signs of
cultivation, or aught else connected with the rural
occupations of the farmer, were visible in the neigh-
borhood. Presently the cavalcade stopped before the
gate, and all the individuals composing it dismounted
and began to unsaddle their horses amidst the bark-
ing of a legion of dogs, and the braying of all the
donkeys in the vicinity.

This was the Jiato or cattle-farm of San Pablo we
were in quest of, famous in the annals of the civil
wars in Venezuela, as the occasional head-quarters
of the constitutional armies, commanded by the owner
of this farm. Our leader was received at the entrance
of his estate, by a grave and elderly negro slave, who
acted as overseer, and had under his control all the
men and property attached to it. Kneeling upon the
stony court-yard, he kissed the hand extended to him
in friendly greeting, after which he proceeded to un-
saddle his master's horse, which he led to a pond
within the enclosure, where the horses were watered.

We purposed remaining a few days at San Pablo,
with the object of incorporating some fresh relays of
mules and horses from the abundant stock of this
estate : so we of the staff installed ourselves under the
palm-roof of our rustic mansion, while the rank and
file of the expedition found accommodation in the
open barracoons adjoining it ; although none of the
party had reason to boast of being better off than
their neighbor.

" It is sad when pleasing first impressions are
obliterated," remarks a sentimental writer ; " always

30 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

painful to become desenchante on a more intimate ac-
quaintance with either people or places." I soon found
that I was not in the fairy land I had imagined, abound-
ing in grottos and refreshed by sparkling fountains,
but in the region of the Llanos where the French adage,
chacun pour soi et Dieu pour tous, is verified to its
fullest extent. San Pablo, with its vaunted prestige,
and in spite of its proximity to several important
marts, was no better provided with accommodations
than the untidy douar of the wandering Arab of the
Desert. A -rickety table standing against the wall
for fear of tumbling down, two or three clumsy cedar
chairs covered with raw-hide, and a couple of grass
hammocks, serving the double purpose of beds and
lounges, constituted all the furniture of the great
farm. As a substitute for wardrobes and hat-stands,
we were shown a number of deer-antlers and bull-
horns imbedded in the walls of reeds and mud, on
which to hang our pouches, bridles, &c. I searched in
vain, on our arrival, for something like a bowl in
which to lave my hands and face, covered with dust
and parched by the broiling sun of the savannas.
Even water was so scarce that it was served to us
sparingly from a large calabash gourd used in bring-
ing it from the river, nearly a mile distant. It is true
there was, within the enclosure of the houses, a pond
or excavation, made while searching for the remains
of a brave officer who fell fighting for his country's
freedom. Sufficient water had accumulated there
during the rainy season to entitle it to the name of
Laguna, or Lake of Genaro Vazquez, the name of
the afore-mentioned hero ; but it was so filled with

THE LLANOS. 31

Bams — a small species of alligator,— terrapins, and
toads, as to render the water undrinkable.

But to return to our head-quarters, the structure
of which struck me so forcibly at first as a bee-hive
of vast proportions, naturally suggesting the idea of a
"land of milk and honey." Unfortunately neither
of these could be obtained either for love or money,
although the woods and pastures of the estate
abounded in both the creatures that produced them.
So we were compelled to resort to our reserved stock
of papelon to sweeten our coffee, and to its own de-
licious natural aroma in the place of milk. As to
the house itself, it only differed from the rest in that
region in being larger, and perhaps in better order
than are the generality. Imagine a pyramidal struc-
ture, thatched with palm leaves, the roof slanting to
within a few feet of the ground, and supported on stout
posts of live timber, which served also as framework
for the walls, and you will have some idea of the style
of architecture peculiar to the country. Doors and win-
dows are of no account in a country uniformly warm
throughout the year, and where the inhabitants pos-
sess few articles capable of tempting the cupidity of
light-fingered gentry. Therefore, an ox-hide stretched
across the openings left in the walls to admit light and
the inmates, is all that is required to keep off unin-
vited guests. As an exception, to this rule, our man-
sion of San Pablo had one or two rooms set apart for
invalids, provided with doors and windows of solid
planks of timber in the rough ; the other apartments
had the upper half of the walls purposely left open,
to admit full and free entrance of light and air. A

32 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

narrow piazza or corridor, formed by the slanting of
the roof to within five feet of the ground, ran along the
entire, length of the main building, and was intended
more as a protection to the rooms against the sun and
rains, than as a resort for the inmates.

The first step, on arriving, was to secure a place in
the open reception room, for my own chattels and
hammock, before all the spare posts and hooks had
been appropriated by my companions. This accom-
plished, I proceeded to a thorough examination of my
saddle and its accoutrements, so as to have them
adapted to the peculiar mode of travelling in the
Llanos. This care I left to the good judgment of our
attendants, not being myself sufficiently skilled in the
art of mending, greasing, and putting in order the
complicated gear of our riding equipment. In the
same predicament were also my two English com-
panions, and our worthy doctor ; a kind word, haw-
ever, addressed to the good-natured Llaneros — espe-
cially if accompanied with a drop of aguardiente —
never failed of enlisting their services in our favor.

Habit, as well as necessity, is sometimes the
mother of invention, as my experience soon taught
me that, to get along in my new quarters, it would be
requisite to set aside the airs and insignia of civiliza-
tion. Divesting myself, therefore, of all such super-
fluities as coat, cravat, pants, and shoes, I adopted the
less cumbrous attire of the Llaneros, consisting mainly
of breeches tightly buttoned at the knee, and a loose
shirt, usually of a bright checkered pattern. Shoes
are altogether dispensed with in a country like the
Llanos, subject to drenching rains, and covered with

THE LLANOS. 33

mud during a great portion of the year, besides the
inconvenience they offer to the rider in holding the
stirrup securely when in chase of wild animals. The
leg, however, is well protected from the thorns and
cutting grass of the savannas by a neat legging or
lotin, made of buffskin, tightly buttoned down the
calf by knobs or studs of highly polished silver.
Another characteristic article of dress, and one in
which the wearers take great pride, is the linen check-
ered handkerchief, loosely worn around the head. Its
object is ostensibly to protect it from the intensity of
the sun's rays ; but the constant habit of wearing it
has rendered the handkerchief as indispensable a head-
dress to the Llaneros as is the cravat to the neck of
the city gentleman.

One angle of the building was devoted to the
kitchen, and rooms for the overseer and his family ;
the other was 'set apart for a store-room, suggesting
hidden treasures of good things for the comfort of the
inner man. Being naturally inquisitive, I lost no
time in investigating the contents of the ~bodega ; but
instead of sweetmeats, fresh cheese, or even bread
and butter, — articles of easy manufacture in the
Llanos, on which I had feasted my imagination, — I
found the place filled with roaches, pack-saddles, old
bridles, lazos, and tasajo or jerked beef. This last is
prepared by cutting fresh beef into long strips, and
exposing them to dry in the sun, first rubbing them
thoroughly with salt. Animal substances spoil so
readily in tropical climates, that unless this precau-
tion is taken immediately after a bullock is slaughter-
ed, the meat becomes tainted in a short time. Two
2*

34: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

or three days' exposure to the hot sun of the Llanos,
is sufficient to render the beef as dry and tough as
leather ; in this state, it may be stored away for six
months without spoiling. The older the better ; age
imparting to it that peculiar rank flavor which makes
tasajo so highly prized by people of all ranks in Cuba
and other West India Islands. Large shipments of
this beef have been made from Venezuela to those
places ; but the competition of Buenos Ayres has re-
duced of late the profits arising from this branch of
our exports. The manner of killing and quartering an
animal in the Llanos deserves particular mention.
The cattle being usually some distance from the house,
two horsemen are despatched after the victim ; one
of them gallops close to the animal's rear, and throw-
ing his unerring lazo at its head, drags it along, while
his companion urges it on by means of his garrocha,
or goad, until they reach the sacrificial post : one or
two turns of the lazo around this, bring the animal
close to ihefiotalon; the matador then plunges the
point of his dagger into the vertebrae back of the head,
and the struggling beast drops as if struck by an elec-
tric spark ; a second thrust of the bloody dagger into
his throat severs the artery, and the blood gushes in
torrents through the wound from every part of his
body. The prostrate victim is now turned upon* its
back, and a long incision made lengthwise o£$
belly, preparatory to flaying and cutting up the car-
cass. "When the animal is not intended to be imme-
diately slaughtered, he is tied to the post by a succes-
sion of coils from the lazo around his horns, and left
there until the fatal moment comes to despatch him.

THE LLANOS. 35

One night I was awakened by a terrific bellowing
proceeding from the botalon ; but, as I knew there was
no bullock there for slaughter at the moment, I was at
a loss how to account for this uproarious serenade.
Curiosity led me to inquire into the cause, and direct-
ing my steps towards the spot, I beheld a group of
about a dozen bulls, smelling at the blood of their
former companions, and ploughing up the gore with
their hoofs, evidently in great distress. This continued
for some time, until, finding their bewailing by moon-
light rather too touching even for artists' ears, we or-
dered them to be driven away, in spite of the sublimity
of the scene. I had other opportunities of witnessing
similar testimonials of respect, whenever a herd of cat-
tle approached the place of execution, which never
failed to impress me deeply with a feeling of compas-
sion for their sorrows.

Every morning an animal was slaughtered for us.
Our meals consisted of roast beef, without either vege-
tables or wheaten bread. Indian corn we had in abun-
dance, both in the grain and in the husk ; but before
it could be converted into arepas — the favorite bread
of the country — it required to be passed through a
variety of operations each day, which made the pro-
cess rather tedious, as the grain must first be hulled
* pounding it in large wooden mortars, adding a
dful of sand and a little water : next the grain must
be separated from the chaff, thoroughly washed, and
then boiled over a slow fire. In doing this, care must
be used, for if too soft it will not answer the purpose.
Finally it is ground to a paste between two stones,
formed into flat cakes, and baked in shallow pans of

36

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

earthenware. The result of all this labor is bread
exceedingly white and nourishing ; but it has the dis-
advantage of becoming tough and unpalatable when
cold. Under the popular name of tortillas, this bread
is also extensively used in Mexico and Central Amer-
ica, although inferior to our own.

Even this was considered a great luxury at San
Pablo, few other cattle-farms being provided with the
necessary utensils for its manufacture, and still fewer
the number of those that will grow sufficient corn for
the consumption of their inmates. The Llaneros are
essentially a pastoral people, and trouble themselves
but little with the cultivation of the land, considering
it rather derogatory to bend their heads, even to
mother Earth. Hence their homes are usually in a
state of utter wretchedness, being unprovided even

THE LLANOS. 37

with the commonest necessaries. Although the land
is extremely fertile, and would well repay the labor
with abundant crops of every kind of grain, they do
not consider bread an essential, using instead a piece
of boiled liver, which in their estimation answers just
as well. Therefore the divine command, which en-
joins us to earn our daily bread by the sweat of the
brow, is not much regarded by them. In the midst
of countless herds, and surrounded with the most
munificent gifts of a bountiful Providence, they are
often even without fresh meat ; not because they are
sparing of their cattle, which in that country bears a
nominal value, but because they are naturally abste-
mious ; and as for milk and butter, they despise both
as food only fit for children. Cheese, however, is a
favorite article of food with them, and in its prepara-
tion, they display considerable ability, especially the
delicious kind termed queso de manos, a species of
boiled cheese. As some of my readers may wish to
experiment in making it, I will give them the recipe.
Curd the milk in the usual way, and boil the curd in
its own whey. When about the consistency of mo-
lasses candy, stretch it out repeatedly with the hands
until cold. Add a little salt to the mass ; roll it into
flat cakes, and hang the cheese to drain in nets sus-
pended from the ceiling. "When pulled, it will sepa-
rate in layers which look like parchment, retaining
all the flavor of the milk.

The cows, being half wild in most cases, require to
be milked by main force. To accomplish this, one
of the dairymen throws a noose around the horns of
the animal, and holds it secure by means of a long

38 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

pole attached to the thong, while another proceeds to
milk it in the usual way ; but none will yield a drop,
unless the calf is first allowed to suck a little, and
then tied to the mother's knee.

Every cow is distinguished by a fancy name, such
as Clavellina, Flor del Campo, Marabilla, and others
equally euphonious and poetical. When called to be
milked, the tame ones immediately answer in sup-
pressed bellowings, and come forward of their own ac-
cord, while the calves confined in the pen, on hearing
their mothers' names, run along the fence in search of
the gate ; a boy, stationed there for the purpose, lets
fall one of the bars, and off they bound after the
mothers.

The men perform there altogether the occupations
allotted to women in other countries, such as milking
the cows, curding the milk, and turning out the cheese
when ready. They do not even disdain cooking their
own food, and washing their own garments, when
occasion requires. Of the women, I may be permit-
ted to quote here what Sir Francis Head, in his quaint
style, says with reference to those in the Pampas of
Buenos Ayres, as being equally applicable to their
sisters of the Llanos : " The habits of the women are
very curious : they have literally nothing to do. the
great plains which surround them offer no motive to
work, they seldom ride, and their lives certainly are
very indolent and inactive. They all have families,
however, whether married or not ; and once when I
inquired of a young woman employed in nursing a
very pretty child, who was the father of the ' cria-
tura,' she replied ' Quien sabe? ' " *

* Journeys across the Pampas.

THE LLANOS. 39

But it is time to introduce my reader to a more
intimate acquaintance with this singular race of peo-
ple, whose manliness, bravery, and skill in waging a
constant war, not only with the wild animals of the
field, but against the proud legions of Iberia, entitle
them to a place among the heroes of the earth.

CHAPTER IV.

THE LLANEROS.

" Dichoso aquel que alcanza
Como rico don del Cielo,
Para defender su suelo
Buen cabal!o y buena lanza."

— AEOLAS.

THE people inhabiting the vast region of the
Llanos, although claiming descent from the old Cas-
tilian race, once the rulers of the land, are, in fact, an
amalgamation of the various castes composing the
present population of the Republic. These are, the
whites, or the descendants of the European settlers of
the country ; the aboriginals or Indians, and a great
proportion of blacks. In most of the towns the native
whites preponderate over all others, and represent
the wealth, as well as the most respectable portion
of the community ; in the villages and thinly popu-
lated districts of the plains, a mongrel breed result-
ing from the admixture of these three, constitute the
majority of the inhabitants. These are dispersed over
an area of 27,000 square miles, making a proportion

THE LLANEROS. 41

of only fourteen individuals, out of a population of
390,000, to every square mile.

This race, although, vastly inferior to the first in
mental capacity and moral worth, is endowed with a
physique admirably adapted to endure the fatigues
of a life beset with dangers and hardships.* Cast
upon a wild and apparently interminable plain, the
domain of savage beasts and poisonous reptiles, their
lot has been to pass all their life in a perpetual strug-
gle, not only with the primitive possessors of the
land, but with the elements themselves, often as
fierce as they are grand. When it is not the alarm
of the dreaded viper or the spotted jaguar, it is the
sudden inroad of vast inundations, which, spreading
with fearful rapidity over the land, sweep off in one
moment their frail habitations and their herds.
Nevertheless, this insecure existence, this continual

* Mons. de Lavayesse, in his interesting work on Venezuela, makes
some pertinent remarks on this subject worthy of the consideration and
study of learned physiologists. "Why is it," he says, " that individuals
proceeding from a mixture of African and indigenous American blood,
have greater strength, finer forms, more intellectual faculties and moral
energy, than the Negro or Indian ? Why, although the white be, in gen-
eral, superior in strength of body, mental powers, and in moral force, to
the aboriginal American and to the negro — why, I ask, are the individ-
uals born of the union of a white with an Indian woman, (the Mestizos,
for instance,) inferior in mental and corporeal qualities to the Zambos?
Why are the Mestizos generally distinguished by finer figures, agreeable
countenances, and in mildness and docility of their dispositions ? Why
is the mulatto, son of a white and a negress, superior to the Zambo in in-
tellectual faculties, but his inferior in physical? Why is it, that when
those races are mixed, their progeny is remarkable for a more healthy
and vigorous constitution, and for more vital energy, than the individuals
born in the same climate of indigenous European or African blood, with-
out mixture?"

42 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

struggle between life and death, between rude intel-
lect and matter, lias for the Llanero a sort of fascina-
tion, perhaps not so well understood by people pos-
sessing the blessings and ideas of civilization, but
without which he could not exist, especially if de-
prived of his horse and cast among the mountain
region north of his cherished plains. The Modern
Centaur of the desolate regions of the New World,
the Llanero spends his life on horseback ; all his ac-
tions and exertions must be assisted by his horse ; for
him the noblest effort of man is, when gliding swiftly
over the boundless plain and bending over his spirited
charger, he overturns an enemy or masters a wild
bull. The following lines of Victor Hugo seem as
though copied from this model : " He would not fight
but on horseback ; he forms but one person with his
horse ; he lives on horseback ; trades, buys, and sells
on horseback ; eats, drinks, sleeps, and dreams on
horseback." Like the Arab, he considers his horse
his best and most reliable friend on earth, often de-
priving himself of rest and comfort after a hard day's
journey to afford his faithful companion abundance
of food and water. It is not at all surprising, there-
fore, to hear the bard — all Llaneros are poets more or
less — exclaim, after the loss of both his wife and val-
ued horse :

Mi muger y mi caballo

Se me murieron a un tiempo ;

Que muger, ni que demonio,

Mi caballo es lo que siento.

My wife and my valued horse
Died both at the same time ;
To the devil with my wife,
For my horse do I repine.

THE LLANEROS. 4.3

Few people in the world are better riders than
the Llaneros of Venezuela, if we except perhaps the
Gauchos of Buenos Ayres, or equal to either in the
dexterity they display in the wonderful feats of horse-
manship to which their occupations in the field in-
ure them from childhood. Their horses, moreover,
are so well trained to the various evolutions of their
profession, that animal and rider seem to possess but
one existence.

The life of the Llanero, like that of the Gaucho
his prototype, is singularly interesting, and resembles
in many respects that of others who, like them, have
their abode in the midst of extensive plains. Thus
they have been aptly styled the Cossacks and the
Arabs of the New "World, with both of whom they
have many points in common, but more especially do
they resemble the last named. When visiting the
famous Constantine Gallery of paintings at Versailles,
I was struck with the resemblance of the Algerine
heroes of Horace Yernet with our own, revealing at
once the Moorish descent of the latter, independently
of other characteristic peculiarities.

The inimitable author of " Journeys Across The
Pampas," already quoted, alluding to the life of
these wild shepherds of the plains, compares it very
appropriately to the rise and progress of a young
eagle, so beautifully described by Horace in the
following verses :

Olim juventas et patrius vigor
Nidura laborum propulit inscium ;
Vernique, jam nimbis remotis,
Insolitos docuere nisus

44 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Venti paventem ; mox in ovilia
Demisit hostein vividus impetus ;
Nunc in reluctantes dracones
Egit amor dupis atque pngnaa.

— HOEACE, Book iv., Ode iv.

" Whom native vigor, and the rush

Of youth have spurr'd to quit the nest,
And skies of blue, in springtide's flush,

Entice aloft to breast
The gales he fear'd before his lordly plumes were drest.

u Kow swooping, eager for his prey,

Spreads havoc through the flutter'd fold ;
Straight, fired by love of food and fray,

In grapple fierce and bold,
The struggling dragons rends, e'en in their rocky hold."

— TRANSLATION BY MARTIN.

" Born in the rude hut, the infant Gaucho receives
little attention, but is left to swing from the roof in a
bullock's hide, the corners of which are drawn tow-
ards each other by four strips of hide. In the first
year of his life he crawls about without clothes, and I
have more than once seen a mother give a child of
this age a sharp knife, a foot long, to play with. As
soon as he walks, his infantine amusements are those
which prepare him for the occupations of his future
life ; with a lazo made of twine he tries to catch little
birds, or the dogs, as they walk in and out of the hut.
By the time he is four years old he is on horseback,
and immediately becomes useful by assisting to drive
the cattle into the corral."

When sufficiently strong to cope with a wild ani-

THE LLANEROS. 45

mal, the young Llanero is taken to the majada or
great cattle-pen, and there hoisted upon the bare
back of a tierce young bull. With his face turned
towards the animal's tail, which he holds in lieu of
bridle, and his little legs twisted around the neck of
his antagonist, he is whirled round and round at a
furious rate. His position, as may be imagined, is
any thing but equestrian ; yet, the fear of coming in
contact with the bull's horns compels the rider to
hold on until, by a dexterous twist of the animal's
tail while he jumps off its back, he succeeds in over-
turning his antagonist.

In proportion as he grows older and stronger, a
more manly amusement is afforded him with the
breaking in of a wild colt. This being, however, a
more dangerous experiment, in which many a " young
eagle " is rendered a " lame duck," he is provided
with the necessary accoutrements to withstand the
terrible struggle with the animal. Firmly seated
upon his back and brandishing overhead a tough
chaparro vine for a whip, the apprentice is thus in-
stalled in his new office, from which he must not de-
scend until the brute is perfectly subdued ; the coil
of lazo in the hands of his merciless instructor would
be the least evil awaiting him .should he otherwise
escape safe and sound from the desperate kicks and
plunges of the horse.

Here commences what we may term, the public
life of the Llanero ; his education is now considered
complete. From this moment all his endeavors and
ambition will be to rival his companions in the dis-
play of physical force, which he shows to an admi-

46 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

rable degree when, armed with, his tough lazo, he
pursues the wild animals of his domain. If a power-
ful bull or wild horse tries to escape into the open
plain, the cavalier unfurls the noose which is always
ready by his side, and the fugitive is quickly brought
back to the corral. Should the thong give way under
the impetuous flight of the animal, the rider seizes
him by the tail, and whirling round suddenly, pulls
towards him with so much force as to cause his im-
mediate overthrow.

In all these exercises the roving cavalier of the
Llanos acquires that feeling of security and enduring
disposition for which he is famous. Unfortunately, it
is often turned to account in disturbing the balance
of power among his more enlightened countrymen ;
for he is always ready to join the first revolutionary
movement offering him the best chances for equipping
himself with arms of all descriptions. Next to the
horse, the Llanero esteems thpse weapons which give
him a superiority over his fellow-creatures, viz., a
lanoe, a blunderbuss, and a fine sword. If he is un-
provided with either of these, he considers himself a
miserable and degraded being, and all his efforts will
tend to gratify this favorite vanity, even at the risk
of his own life. Therefore he goes to war, because he
is sure, if victorious, of finding the battle-field covered
with these tempting trophies of his ambition. In this,
unfortunately, he is too often encouraged by a host
of unprincipled politicians who, not wishing to earn
a livelihood by fair means, are eternally plotting
against the powers that be.

The style of sword worn by the Llaneros differs

THE LLANEROS. 4.7

little from that used by Spaniards of the middle ages,
the hilt being surmounted by a guard in the shape of
a reversed cup, affording an excellent protection to
the hand that wields it, while the blade is made with
two edges, instead of one. Most of these swords are
mounted in silver, the same as the accompanying
dagger, another of. their favorite weapons ; and such
is the passion among Llaneros for glittering swords
and daggers, that they would sooner dispense with a
house or a corral, than with either of these expensive
commodities.

The lance comes next in importance, and in their
hands is quite a formidable weapon, which they are
enabled to handle with great dexterity, from their
constant practice with the garrocha or goad with
which they drive and turn the cattle. As an element
of war, the lance has become celebrated in the coun-
try, having rendered the cause of Independence the
most effectual service in repelling the attacks of the
sanguinary hosts sent by Spain against the indomi-
table " Eebeldes " of Colombia.

The trabuco or blunderbuss, too, is held in great
estimation as a weapon of defence, or rather of ag-
gression, as they are at all times ready to test its
powers on the slightest provocation ; and nobody
thinks of travelling in that desert country without
one of these wide-mouthed spitfires by his side.

Being rather of a superstitious turn of mind, these
people believe that by decorating their deadly wea-
pons with some insignia of their religion, they are
rendered more effectual ; the cross surmounts their
swords and daggers ; while the rosary and agnus Dei

48 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

entwine the butt-end of their trdbucos, when called
into requisition. Thus they are emboldened to per-
form acts of desperate valor which, under any other
circumstances, would be considered rash in the ex-
treme.

Such is the religious faith of these benighted
people ; a religion of form and superstition rather
than conviction. Christianity, like the Spanish lan-
guage, exists among them, it is true ; but corrupted
and enveloped in dark superstition, almost bordering
on idolatry. It cannot, however, be expected that a
widely scattered population over so extensive an area
of desert plains, should possess any means of enlight-
enment beyond what is conveyed to them through
the few teachers distributed among the principal
towns of the interior. Therefore it is not an unusual
thing to meet with persons owning extensive cattle
farms, and even holding important commissions in
the army, who cannot read or write. During the
good old times of the Capuchin Missions, the youth
of the villages under their control received at their
hands a scanty education, principally in the primary
notions of the catechism ; but with the destruction of
those beneficent establishments, during the protracted
struggle between natives and Spaniards, they were
replunged into utter ignorance, and most of their
places of worship have long since gone to decay.
They have retained, nevertheless, enough of the ex-
travagant notions of that school to establish a creed
singularly at variance with the teachings of the Gos-
pel, and founded principally on a belief in saints and
amulets. The latter consist in little trinkets wrought

THE LLANEROS. 4.9

in gold or silver ; or written orisons carefully pre-
served in leathern bags and worn suspended from
their rosaries around their necks. Most of these ori-
sons are the more extravagant from the fact they have
no meaning whatever ; yet this very obscurity seems
to attach greater value to them, their principal charm
consisting, as they say, in their mysterious import.

Great faith is also placed in certain prayers which
are supposed to have the power of driving away the
Devil, curing diseases and averting all kinds of evil.

As regards their Creator, they only have some
vague ideas ; they believe, for instance, in one God ;
mais voila tout. They seem to entertain greater fear
of Beelzebub and Death personified, both of whom
they imagine to possess undisputed sway over His
creatures. The first they fancy to be fashioned with
horns, hoofs, and claws like some of their wild beasts.
Their ideas of death are no less extravagant. A re-
spectable old gentleman of my acquaintance who once
found himself very low with fever, thus related his
experience respecting this fearful vision. " Why ! "
said he to a circle of friends who came to congratulate
him on his recovery, "I had always supposed that
Death was actually a horrid skeleton skulking about
the world in search of victims, and carrying iri his
hand a fearful hook with which he angled for us as
we do for fish. No such thing, my friends, I assure
you ; Death, after all, is nothing more than lack of
breath ; " accompanying the assertion with a gentle
pressure of his nose with his fingers and a hearty
laugh.

As a natural consequence, the Llaneros, in spite
8

50 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of their bravery and sangfroid in other respects, en-
tertain great fear of espantos or ghosts and appari-
tions. One of the most popular hallucinations of this
kind is la lola defuego, or " light of Aguirre the Ty-
rant," as the natives usually style it — a sort of ignis
fatuus, arising from the decomposition of organic
substances at the bottom of certain marshes. Super-
stitious imaginations, unacquainted with this phe-
nomenon, readily transform these gaseous exhalations
into the soul of the famous Lope de Aguirre wander-
ing about the savannas. This adventurous individual
had the satisfaction, while he lived, of discovering the
great river Amazon. Being of a restless and bloody
disposition, like all the heroes of that epoch, he started
in search of El Dorado with a powerful expedition
from Peru, which resulted in the discovery of the
Father of Waters. He stained his laurels, however,
with the blood of his own daughter, as well as with
that of his companions, for which unpardonable atro-
cities it is believed his accursed soul was left to wan-
der over those countries which he sullied with his
crimes.* Now it appears before the terrified traveller
in the form of a blazing ball of fire ; a minute after
it will be seen one or two miles off. If sufficiently
near, the spectator cannot fail to observe the entrails
of the wicked wanderer enveloped in the flames of
this extraordinary apparition. Such is the power of
affrighted imaginations which have converted one of
the commonest phenomena of chemical action into
the wildest speculation of besotted fanaticism.

* See Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions pf America.

THE LLANEROS. 51

"With regard to miracles and the interposition of
the saints, the names of some of which are constantly
in their mouths, the Llaneros also have many curious
notions. For every emergency of their lives there is
a special patron saint ; San Pablo, like good old St.
Patrick, is supposed to have entire sway over snakes
and other vermin ; San Antonio, the power of re-
storing stolen goods to their rightful owners ; while
San somebody else that of befriending the highway
robber and assassin from the punishment of justice
and violent death. As an illustration of this fact, I
will relate here an incident which I witnessed during
one of those endemic revolutions so typical of the
Spanish American republics, and which never fail to
foster lawless bands of desperadoes who, under the
cover of political reforms, commit all sorts of depre-
dations upon the helpless inhabitants.

JOSE URBANO, THE GUERILLA-CHIEF.

A digression for the sake of variety.

Shortly after our return from, the Apure, a revo-
lution broke out among the colored population ; a
class which until then had been the most peaceful
and submissive, but since perverted to such a degree
as to require all the energies and resources of the
white race to save itself from utter ruin and degra-
dation.

An ambitious demagogue, editor of a newspaper
in the capital, had been seized with the mania, so

52 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

prevalent in South America, of becoming President
(pro tern.} of the Republic. To this end, he spared no
means in recommending himself to the public, through
the columns of his paper, heaping at the same time
all kinds of slander and abuse upon those who stood
in his way. Finding, however, little cooperation from
the better class of the community, he experienced no
scruple in courting the favor of the colored popula-
tion, who, he readily persuaded, " had a perfect right
to share in the gains and property of their aristocratic
masters." The Government was powerless in arrest-
ing the spirit of revolt which was daily being infused
among the masses, as the Constitution allowed perfect
freedom of the press, and the good citizens did not
care to take the matter into their own hands. The
consequence was, a fearful outbreak among the lower
classes, backed by all the tramposos or broken-down
speculators of the country, proclaiming community
of property, and the ci-devant editor (who, by the
way, had not a sous to stake in it) candidate for the
next Presidency of the Republic. The revolt soon
spread to the Llaneros, by far the most to be feared
in the matter of hard blows ; and although it was
quelled in time through the efforts of General Paez,
it sowed the seeds of discontent which have since
brought forth to the country an abundant crop of re-
venge, violence, and rapine. It was during that cam-
paign the incident I am about to relate occurred in
the savannas of San Pablo.

We had just encamped for the night on the beau-
tiful plain of Morrocoyes, not far from our place,
when a messenger arrived to apprise the General that

THE LLANEROS. 53

the famous Jose Urbano, leader of a band of robbers
who had committed several wanton murders in that
neighborhood, had crossed over to San Pablo under
cover of night. The General immediately despatched
a dozen of his men after the banditti, with positive
orders to follow up the r astro or trail to the world's
end if necessary, and not return to his presence with-
out the body of the leader, muerto 6 vivo, dead or
alive. To any other set of men less accustomed to
the wild pursuits of the Llanos, this would have ap-
peared an impossibility in a country like San Pablo,
traversed in all directions by numerous cross-ways
made by the cattle ; but the instinct of those men in
tracking runaways as well as stray animals, is truly
wonderful. Although the plain was covered with the
footprints of twenty thousand animals roaming wild
over the savannas, they followed close on the heels of
the banditti, until they fell in, unfortunately, with
another trail left by some vaqueros. The night was
very dark, and they easily mistook this for that of the
enemy. As a matter of course it led them to a ranch
where the unlucky vaqueros were amusing themselves
at the game of monte. Without stopping to ascertain
who the gamblers were, the troop charged in the
midst of them, killing two or three innocent fellows,
and dispersing the rest like a herd of wild sheep.
The aggressors did not discover their mistake until
one of the fugitives, who happened to be acquainted
with the party, recognized the voice of the com-
mander, and shouted to him to stop the carnage.

After this unfortunate encounter, it may be easy
to conceive that the troopers were not slow in retrac-

54 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

ing their steps in search of the cause of their mistake ;
this time, however, with more prudence, carefully ex-
amining every trail until they found the right one. It
led them to another ranch where Urbano was spend-
ing the evening in. the society of one of his numerous
sweethearts. Here they all dismounted very quietly,
and leaving the horses in charge of two companions,
they rushed into the ranch with a wild shout and
lance in hand. The attack was so sudden, that most
of the banditti were either killed or dispersed before
they had time to seize their arms. Only their gallant
leader stood at bay against tremendous odds, defend-
ing himself bravely for a long time with the assistance
of his equally courageous sweetheart, who kept all
the while urging him on like a tigress.

Overpowered at last by a superior force, and faint
writh the loss of blood from numerous wounds, the
bandit fell at the feet of his sable Amazon. When
raised, an amulet was found between his teeth so
firmly held, that it required the united efforts of two
men to remove it. On being opened, it was found to
contain a written orison, shrouded in such mysterious
language as would have defied the skill of a magician
to decipher. This, I was informed, was the famous
Oracion del Justo Juez, a singular misnomer for a
talisman intended to befriend these gente non sancta
in their marauding expeditions.

It was a lucky thing for the assailants that Urbano
received at the outset a severe cut on his right arm,
causing an immediate flow of blood which filled the
pan of his trabuco, otherwise the affair would have
terminated very differently. The ignition of the pow-

THE LLANEROS. 55

der was thus prevented just as he was in the act of
discharging the contents of that engine of destruction
amidst the group.

The body of the culprit was now tied on the back
of a horse and conveyed to the presence of the Gen-
eral, as an atonement for the unfortunate mistake
which had deprived him of the services of two or
three valuable hands.

The news of this adventure spread as if by magic
over the surrounding country and brought together
great numbers of curiosos, among them, no doubt,
many of Urbano's adherents, who might have dis-
credited the statement. The General improved the
opportunity to address them an impressive homily,
ordering at the same time the mutilated body of the
renowned bandit to be exposed on the public road for
twenty -four hours, as a warning to others with similar
proclivities.

The death of this man, considered invulnerable by
the superstitious children of the Llanos, produced a
more powerful impression upon them than if a great
battle had been fought and won. Next day, hun-
dreds of facciosos, availing themselves of a general
amnesty granted by the Commarider-in-Chief to re-
pentant revolutionists, began to arrive from various
quarters and gave in their submission.

Thus ended for the time being one of the most
dangerous outbreaks that had ever occurred in the
country, from the nature of the principles involved.
As to the originator, he was subsequently eclipsed by
a bolder political aspirant, the ever-memorable Jose
T. Monagaa. This worthy, of whom more especial

56 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

mention will be made hereafter, and who, in an evil
hour for his country, was called to fill the chair of
State, profiting by the condition of anarchy in which
the other had plunged the nation, afterwards shot
down the Representatives of the people in Congress
assembled, and proclaimed himself absolute ruler,
thus leaving the other ambitious pretender to exclaim
with the poet :

" Hos ego versicnlos feci, tulit alter honores."

CHAPTER V.

SCENES AT THE FISHERY.

FOUR days we remained at San Pablo making ar-
rangements for the contemplated expedition to the
Apure ; but the horses being quartered at consider-
able distance, we removed to La Yegiiera, a small farm
within the estate exclusively devoted to the breeding
of those animals. Great numbers of mules were also
raised there, which made the equine stock amount to
nearly three thousand animals of all ages. There,
untrammelled by barriers of any kind, they roamed
at will over those beautiful meadows in a semi-wild
state ; their only keeper was a half-breed, who with
his family occupied the Ranch, which on that occasion
was to shelter us also. This Ranch being too small,
however, for the accommodation of the whole party,
most of them bivouacked in a grove of lofty Cesal-
pinias and Carob trees, from whose spreading branches
they slung their hammocks, the dense foliage forming
a sufficient shelter from the heavy dews of night and
the heat of the sun by day.

Our Leader, the Doctor, and myself, were domi-
3*

58 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES,

ciled at the Ranch. Having the full range of the
neighboring groves during the day, we had then no
occasion to use our single apartment, already par-
tially occupied with the culinary utensils and other
wares of the family. But on retiring to our ham-
mocks at night, the scene presented was rather ludi-
crous. In the same room allotted to us slept the
keeper, his wife, and their numerous progeny,
with all the dogs and chickens of the household
huddled together in the most familiar manner. Not-
withstanding, I will confess that the arrangement was
not altogether disagreeable to me, as in close pro-
pinquity slept two of the prettiest damsels I had yet
encountered in that region, with eyes brilliant enough
to render other light superfluous. The only important
hindrance to my nightly repose was the occasional
flapping of wings and the hourly crowing of our
host's favorite gamecock, tied directly under my ham-
mock, and who served for clock and night-watchman
to the establishment.

Agapito, our host, had an easy time as overseer
of this domain, his only occupation being from time
to time to scour the savannas in search of young foals
which might have been attacked by the gusano. This
is the larvae of a species of fly deposited in the umbili-
cal cord of the new born, and which, if not promptly
removed, will eat into the very vitals. It is fortu-
nately not difficult to destroy them by the use of pow-
dered cebadilla, the seed of a liliaceous plant (Yera-
trum cebadilla) abounding in veratrine. For this
purpose, the keeper is always provided with a horn
filled with the poisonous drug, and a wooden spatula.

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. 59

With the latter he digs out the worms and fills the
wound with the powder to prevent a renewal of their
attacks.

Groves and meadows unequalled for their luxu-
riance and natural beauty surrounded us on all sides,
while numerous springs and rivulets, issuing from the
foot of the terrace -like Mesas -, rushed down the de-
clivity of the plain, increasing the volume of the
beautiful Guarico on whose banks stood the primitive
abode of our unsophisticated host. This river is justly
celebrated for the abundance and superiority of its
fish ; so, without delay, providing myself with hook
and line, I proceeded thither, being anxious to procure
specimens for my sketch-book, and also a substitute
for our daily fare of beef. But, strange to relate,
each time I dropped hook in the water, it was carried
away in some mysterious manner, without the least
motion being imparted to the float. My tackle, which
I had brought from England, although arranged for
fly-fishing, was capable of bearing a fish of many
pounds weight ; but as I soon lost all my stock in
hand in the vain endeavor to secure my specimens, I
gave up in disgust and returned to the Ranch that
the mystery might, if possible, be explained. On
seeing my slender lines, mine host with a broad grin
facetiously remarked that they were good to play at
fishing with, the only drawback to the amusement
being that the caribe, a fish not larger than a perch,
would carry off all my playthings. Impossible, said
I ; the lines are strong enough to lift you out of the
water if necessary ; to this he quietly replied, direct-
ing my attention to a mutilated finger of his right

60 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

hand, " Do you see this ? well, not long ago I was
washing my hands in the river after slaughtering a
calf, when a caribe darted at my finger and carried
off a part before I was even aware of his approach."
Here was a serious obstacle to my favorite sport, and
to the pleasure that Mr. Thomas and I had anticipated
in sketching the various kinds of fish peculiar to that
region. Fortunately, a short distance down the river
was a fishing encampment provided with all the ne-
cessary appliances for obtaining the fish in large
quantities. Of these we resolved to avail ourselves ;
but as several others of our party were equally inter-
ested, our leader despatched a messenger to the fish-
ermen, inviting them to come up the river with their
nets, and fish in our presence. To this they readily
acceded, and soon after made their appearance pad-
dling themselves over the water in four large canoes
laden, among other things, with their chinchorros or
seines, which they at once proceeded to spread across
the stream, covering a deep charco or pool known to
contain abundance of fish. Although the river at
this season was very low, owing to the usual summer
drought, pools of considerable depth were left at in-
tervals, and in these the fish sought refuge in vast
numbers from the season's heat and from the eager
pursuit of the fishermen, of which the latter sang,
while spreading their seines, in the following lines :

Guavina le dijo a Bagre
Vamonos al caramero,
Porque ya viene el verano
Y nos coge el chinchorrero.

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. Q^

As the nets were dragged towards each other, the
fish could be seen by thousands moving within the
space embraced by the seines. Indeed, so numerous
were they, that it soon became impossible to pull
them in shore without previously relieving them of a
portion of their contents. Accordingly, some of the
men, armed with throw-nets, harpoons, and bicker os
— these last large hooks affixed to wooden handles —
plunged into the midst of the finny multitude, and
commenced an onslaught on the largest among them.
Presently one of the men came out with a monstrous
fellow of the catfish tribe beautifully striped like a
Bengal tiger, and like him having a thick snout fur-
nished with long barbs. This species is called the

~bagre rayado or striped catfish, and is much esteemed
by people of all classes as a substitute for beef during
Lent. Large quantities are salted and sent at that
time to the capital and other cities, where, under the
name ofpescado llanero, it forms one of the delicacies
of the season. Some of these fish attain an enormous
size, measuring five, six, and even seven feet in length,
and are so fat that a single one is a load for two men.
In diving with the ~bichero, much caution was
necessary on the part of the men lest they should be

62 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

hooked by their hasty companions in lieu of the fish.
A more important source of anxiety to the divers,
was several dangerous fish among the multitude
struggling in the water, such as the Ray-fish, whose
tail is furnished with a sting three inches long, with
which it inflicts a very painful wound ; Electric eels,
whose touch alone will paralyze in an instant the mus-
cles of the strongest man ; the Payara, shaped some-
what like a sabre, and equally dangerous. The lower
jaw of this last is furnished with a formidable pair of
fangs, not unlike those of the rattlesnake ; with these
it inflicts as smooth a gash as if cut with a razor ;
and finally, the caribe, whose ravenous and blood-
thirsty propensities have caused it to be likened to
the cannibal tribe of Indians, once the terror of those
regions, but now scattered over the towns and vil-
lages along the course of the Orinoco. Each time the
nets were hauled in shore, half a dozen or more of
these little pests were to be seen jumping in the
crowd, their jaws wide open tearing whatever came
in their way, especially the meshes of the nets, which
they soon rendered useless. Their sharp triangular
teeth, arranged in the same manner as those of the
shark, are so strong, that neither copper, steel, nor
twine can withstand them. The sight of any red sub-
stance, blood especially, seems to rouse their sanguin-
ary appetite ; and as they usually go in swarms, it is
extremely dangerous for man or beast to enter the
water with even a scratch upon their bodies. Horses
wounded with the spur are particularly exposed to
their attacks, and so rapid is the work of destruction,
that unless immediate assistance is rendered, the fish

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. (J3

soon penetrate the abdomen of the animal and speed-
ily reduce it to a skeleton ; hence, doubtless, their
appellation of mondonguero — tripe-eater. There are
other varieties of the caribe in the rivers of the
Llanos, but none so bold and bloodthirsty as this
glutton of the waters. So abundant is this species
in some rivers of the Apure, that it is a common
saying among Llaneros : " there is more caribe than
water."

Every feature of this miniature cannibal denotes
the ferocity and sanguinary nature of its tastes. The
piercing eye, surrounded by a bloody-looking ring,
is expressive of its cruel and bloodthirsty disposition.
Its under jaw, lined with a thick cartilaginous mem-
brane which adds greatly to its strength, protrudes
considerably beyond the upper, giving, as this forma-
tion of jaw does to all animals possessing it, likewise
an expression of ferocity. Large spots of a brilliant
orange hue cover a great portion of its body, espe-
cially the belly, fins, and tail. Toward the back, it is
of a bluish ash color, with a slight tint of olive green,
the intermediate spaces being of a pearly white, while

Q4: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the gill-covers are tinged with red. The inhabitants
being often compelled to swim across streams infested
with them, entertain more fear of these little creatures
than of that world-renowned monster, the crocodile.
This last, although a formidable antagonist in the
water, can be easily avoided and even conquered in
single combat by daring men, while the former, from
their diminutive size and greater numbers, can do more
mischief in a short time than a legion of crocodiles.

The other kinds of caribe, although larger in size,
are less dangerous than the preceding, and some even
perfectly harmless. Among these, the black caribe
of the Apure and Orinoco rivers is considered dainty
eating. The caribito is also a harmless pretty little
fish, with back of a fine green color, and belly white
with occasional streaks of pink.

In spite, however, of all these vicious creatures,
and the great depth of the water, the fishermen accom-
plished their work in a manner that would have done
credit to the fearless pearl-divers of the ocean, more
especially the swimmers, who are constantly in dan-
ger from some of the fish while gliding through the
water in their pursuit. Those in the canoes were, of
course, less liable to be attacked, although it often
happened that a payara, being peculiarly adapted
for darting out of the water, would clear the nets with
a spring and fall in the midst of the paddlers, causing
a momentary confusion among them. My attention
was particularly attracted to the skill of the men in
throwing their hand nets, sometimes lying on their
stomach on the surface of the water, their hands en-
cumbered with the nets ; others would stand perfectly

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. (55

erect, half their bodies out of water, and without any
footing to serve them as point cPappui. In the same
manner, those whose business it was to drive the fish
towards the seines, managed their huge batons, and
all apparently without the least inconvenience. Sud-
denly their labors were interrupted by a serious ob-
stacle in the shape of a caiman or alligator struggling
hard between the nets to regain his freedom. Here
was a sufficient test of the courage and ability of the
fishers. If the monster remained, he would not only
endanger the nets, but also the progress of the men
through the water, they being liable at any moment
to come in contact with his powerful jaws. It was
therefore decided to get rid of the intruder at all
hazards. To accomplish this, a lazo was procured,
and to the astonishment of all the blancos present, a
man went down with it to the bottom in search of the
monster, with the avowed object of lazoing him under
the water. After a few moments of, to us, most anx-
ious suspense, but which the ha?dy fishermen re-
garded as child's play, their companion rose to the
surface panting for breath, not yet having ascertained
the precise position of his intended victim. After
inhaling sufficient air, the diver again disappeared,
coming up in due time with the glad tidings that the
enemy was captured, in proof whereof he handed us
the other end of the lazo that we might drag him out.
This was no easy task, as these reptiles, by their pe-
culiar conformation, have immense power while under
water, and it required the united efforts of all on
shore to land him. This accomplished, we were per-
plexed in what manner to despatch him, as no steel

QQ TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

instrument can penetrate the thick cuirass of the
caiman, except it be in the armpits ; but so violent
were his struggles, that it was impossible to strike
him there. At last the Doctor, more sagacious than
the rest of us in anatomical operations, plunged a
harpoon into the nape of the neck. The effect wras
that of paralyzing at once the movements of the
prisoner, after which he was easily stabbed.

The manner in which our gallant diver accom-
plished his daring feat was thus explained by his
companions ; the caiman, like the domestic hog,
is said to delight in being scratched about the ribs,*
and of this the diver perhaps availed himself in
order to place the noose around his neck, being very
careful to approach him from behind, as it is a well-
known fact that these reptiles, owing to the nature of
their collar vertebrae, cannot easily turn round. The
alligator is not so dangerous as its congener the croco-
dile of the Orinoco and its tributaries ; few real croco-
diles ever ascend the Guarico as far as San Pablo.
However, a case had occurred here not long before,
when a man disappeared under rather mysterious cir-
cumstances, and there was good reason to surmise
that his loss was due to one of these gentry. It ap-
pears that the seines, being entangled around a snag
at the bottom of the river, a man was, as usual, sent to
remove the obstruction ; considerable time elapsing
without his reappearance, his comrades, seriously
alarmed, instituted a diligent search, but no vestige of
the unfortunate man was ever discovered. It never oc-

* Since the above first appeared in print, I find this fact corrobo-
rated by Sir J. Emerson Tennent, in his interesting " Sketches on the
NAT. HIST. OF CEYLON," as practised by the natives of that island.

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. Qf

curred to his friends that he might have fallen a prey
to a crocodile, and the calamity was universally as-
cribed to the supernatural influence of some evil genii
of the deep. From that time, the spot has borne the
ominous name of the Encantado or haunted pool.

All obstructions to the progress of the nets were
at length removed, and a sufficient quantity of fish
having been taken therefrom, we all assisted in pull-
ing them in, and a few moments afterwards had the
satisfaction of beholding the sand banks on which we
were, strewn with the proceeds of the two seines.

It would be impossible to convey an adequate
idea of the singular forms and brilliant hues of most
of these fish, all new to me. The Cherna, in particu-
lar, attracted my attention from their abundance
and peculiar formation. Some attain a large size,
weighing as much as a hundred pounds, and their
flesh is so delicate as to deserve the appellation
of river veal. The mouth is comparatively small,
and set with a row of teeth bearing a strong resem-
blance to those of the human species.

The fishing having been solely for our amusement,
and more game obtained than we required for our
consumption, some was distributed among the people
of the neighborhood who had collected to witness the
sport, and the remainder given to the fishermen, who
received besides a handsome compensation for their
trouble in coming so far from their encampment.

During the distribution of the fish, a singular in-
cident took place which illustrates at once the tena-
city of life with which reptiles are endowed, and the
electrical powers of that most singular creature, the

68 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

gymnotus or electric eel. A boy had discovered one
of these among the heap of fish on the beach, and was
dragging it along by means of a bicliero to avoid the
shocks, when the body of the eel came accidentally
in contact with the carcass of the caiman. This last,
which, after the rough treatment it had received from
our medical adviser, was supposed to be quite dead,
much to the surprise of all, opened his huge jaws
and closed them with a loud crash. The Doctor, espe-
cially, who, from his professional knowledge in surgi-
cal operations, had pronounced it beyond recovery,
was the loudest in his expressions of astonishment at
this unexpected turn. It was, however, merely a
convulsive movement, induced by contact with the
eel, and similar to that produced on the limbs of a frog
by a galvanic current ; for, afterward, the reptile re-
mained without further signs of returning life. Science
will, ere long, take advantage of the electric eel.

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. 69

I would here most willingly entertain my readers
with an account of the nature and habits of these
" animal electrical machines," had not the great
Humboldt already elucidated the subject in the most
comprehensive and brilliant manner. To his admir-
able works I will therefore refer the reader for a full
and graphic description of this, one of the most curi-
ous of fish. It was in one of the numerous tributary
creeks of this river, that the distinguished traveller
procured the gymnoti for his experiments ; perhaps
from amongst the progenitors of the above mentioned.
The manner in which they were obtained differed
somewhat, however, from the one adopted by us on
this occasion. Knowing how difficult it was to catch
these eels on account of their extreme agility and
powerful electrical discharges, the guides collected in
the savannas a drove of wild horses, which they forced
into a pool of water abounding in gymnoti. " The
extraordinary noise caused by the horses' hoofs makes
the fish issue from the mud and excites them to at-
tack. The yellowish and livid eels, resembling large
aquatic serpents, swim on the surface of the water
and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules.
A contest between animals of so different an organi-
zation presents a very striking spectacle. The In-
dians, provided with harpoons and long slender reeds,
surround the pool closely, and some climb up the
trees, the branches of which extend horizontally over
the surface of the water. By their wild cries, and
the length of their reeds, they prevent the horses
from running away and reaching the bank of the
pool. The eels, stunned by the noise, defend them-

70 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

selves by the repeated discharge of their electric bat-
teries. For a long interval they seem likely to prove
victorious. Several horses sink beneath the violence
of the invisible strokes which they receive from all
sides in organs the most essential to life ; and stunned
by the force and frequency of the shocks, they disap-
pear under water."

" I wish," adds the traveller, " that a clever artist
could have depicted the most animated period of the
attack ; the group of Indians surrounding the pond,
the horses writh their manes erect and eyeballs wild
with pain and fright, striving to escape from the
electric storm which they had roused, and driven
back by the shouts and long whips of the excited In-
dians ; the livid yellow eels, like great water snakes,
swimming near the surface and pursuing their enemy ;
all these objects presented a most picturesque and
exciting c ensemble.' In less than five minutes two
horses were killed ; the eel, being more than five feet
in length, glides beneath the body of the horse and
discharges the whole length of its electric organ. It
attacks, at the same time, the heart, the digestive
viscera, and the coeliac fold of the abdominal nerves.
I thought the scene would have a tragic termination,
and expected to see most of the quadrupeds killed ;
but the Indians assured me that the fishing would
soon be finished, and that only the first attack of the
gymnoti was really formidable. In fact, after the
conflict had lasted a quarter of an hour, the mules
and horses appeared less alarmed ; they no longer
erected their manes, and their eyes expressed less
pain and terror. One no longer saw them struck

SCENES AT THE FISHERY. Yl

down in the water, and the eels, instead of swimming
to the attack, retreated from their assailants and ap-
proached the shore. The Indians now began to use
their missiles ; and by means of the long cord at-
tached to the harpoon, jerked the fish ont of the
water without receiving any shock so long as the
cord was dry."

The electric eel, although much dreaded by man,
is greatly esteemed by gourmands. It is necessary,
however, to deprive the fish of those parts constitut-
ing the electrical apparatus, which are rather spongy
and unpalatable. So perfect a machine is this curious
organ, that Faraday succeeded — by insulation of the
animal electricity and a most ingenious apparatus de-
vised by him — in obtaining a spark with which he ignit-
ed a spoonful of gunpowder. Bat there are several
varieties of the fish which do not possess this peculiarity.

Among the promiscuous assemblage of fish scat-
tered on the sand beach, ready to transfix the hand
that might inadvertently touch them, were many
sting-rays. This species, like its prototype the famous
Manta-fish of the Caribbean Sea, is quite circular
and flat, with a tail over a foot in length, very thick
at the base and tapering towards the end. Near the
middle on the upper part, it is armed with a long
and sharp-pointed bone or sting, finely serrated on
two sides, which the fish can raise or lay flat at will.
When disturbed, the ray, by a quick movement of
the tail, directs its sting towards the object, which it
seldom fails to reach. The wound thus inflicted is so
severe, that the whole nervous system is convulsed,
the person becoming rigid and benumbed in a few

Y2 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

moments. Even long after the violent effects of the
wound have subsided, the part affected retains a slug-
gish ulceration, which has in many instances baffled
the skill of the best surgeons. Some creeks and la-
goons of stagnant water are so infested with them,
that it is almost certain destruction to venture into
them. They usually frequent the shallow banks of
muddy pools, where they may be seen at all times
watching for prey ; and, as if conscious of their
powers, scarcely deign to move off when approached
by man. They, also, are considered good eating, on
which account they frequently fall a prey to hungry
boys and vultures, who wage constant war upon them
with spear and talon.

Mr. Thomas and I had plenty of occupation in
sketching the various specimens before us ; but the
speedy approach of night compelled us to relinquish
our agreeable pastime ; thus many curious fish which
we would have liked to preserve, had to be consigned
to the frying-pan instead of to our portfolios.

In the mean time our able cook, Monico, and half
a dozen of Llanero assistants — all of whom are more or
less accomplished in the art of cooking in their own pe-
culiar style — were busily engaged throughout the af-
ternoon preparing the spoils of the day for our supper.
A fat calf was also killed in honor of the occasion,
and roasted before a blazing fire under the trees. The
Llaneros are quite skilled in roasting an ox or calf,
which they divide in sections according to the flavor
of each particular morceau. These they string up on
long wooden spits, and keep them turning before the

' SCENES AT THE FISHERY. 73

fire until sufficiently cooked. The ribs of the animal,
taken out entire, usually form the most favorite mor-
sel ; but I would recommend to future travellers in
that country the entreverado, made up of the animal's
entrails, such as the liver, heart, lungs, and kidneys,
cut into pieces of convenient size and spitted ; then
enveloped in the fat mesenteric membrane of the an-
imal, and cooked in its own juices.

In addition to this abundant supply of came
asada, we had fish in every style, smoked, broiled, en
sancocho, (bouilli,) &c., with plenty of bread prepared
by the wife and daughters of our equerry. Just as
every one had eaten, as he supposed, his fill, one of
our assistants made his appearance bending under the
weight of a boiling caldron containing a rich bouilli
of cherna heads, and urged us to partake of his hum-
ble fare. Although this was rather reversing the
order of courses, we were finally prevailed upon to
taste the soup he had prepared with so much care for
us ; and no sooner was the rich broth tasted by our
epicurean party, than it was forthwith devoured with
unimpaired appetites ; but my enjoyment of the broth
was somewhat spoiled by coming in contact with a
row of omniverous-looking teeth, which so reminded
me of a human skull, that I was constrained to
throw my portion away, although I must confess
that I never tasted soup superior to it.

CHAPTER VI.

WILD HOUSES.

THE fishing over, the main object of our expedition
to La Yegiiera was next attended to, namely, that of
adding to our madrina of supernumerary horses from
the abundant stock of this farm. An entire day was
passed in riding through its enchanting groves and
meadows, inspecting the numerous droves of mares,
guarded by their proud padrotes or stallions. Each
troop is under the control of one of these, who not
only prevent their mingling with other packs, but en-
deavor also to appropriate all the other mares they
can kidnap from their neighbors. The conquest, how-
ever, is not obtained without a determined resistance
from their rightful lords, which occasions fierce com-
bats between the rivals. "When any stranger ap-
proaches, the whole troop boldly advances towards
the object of their alarm, neighing, snorting, and
throwing their slim and beautiful forms into the most
graceful attitudes. When at the distance of a hun-
dred paces, they all halt, and five or six scouts are
detached from the main body to reconnoitre. These

WILD HORSES. 75

approach still nearer, and stretching their necks and
ears, seem, with wild glance and cautious movement,
to inquire from the stranger the object of this intru-
sion, while, in the mean time, the stallion keeps the
whole troop in readiness for retreat in case of pursuit.
When this last occurs, the scouts hastily incorporate
themselves with the main body, while the stallion
orders the retreat as skilfully as a good general might
under similar circumstances, stopping occasionally to
watch the enemy's movements, but never resuming
the lead until the troop is out of danger. When thus
wildly coursing over the prairies in packs of one or
two hundred, headed by their respective stallions, in-
spired, as it were, by the freedom of the plain, noth-
ing can surpass their magnificent appearance, nor the
proud air of liberty with which they snuff the passing
breeze. We one day brought to the Eanch a large
drove, from which we selected those required for the
expedition. This occupied the men for a couple of
days, as it was discovered that most of the animals
were in bad condition from burrs and garrapatas,
another destructive insect peculiar to those places, of
the size and shape of a bed-bug, and very distressing
to animals. It adheres with such tenacity to the skin
of the poor brutes, that it requires to be pulled by
hand in order to detach it ; if left undisturbed, it will
suck the blood until its body becomes distended to
many times the natural size. It attacks all kinds of
animals, but more especially horses : these last suffer
in consequence, from malignant sores about their ears,
which soon wither and drop off.

The horses were so wild that they had to be broken

76 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

in before they could be of any service. This opera-
tion— which might as well be termed breaking down
horses, as a great number are ruined by it — affords
the Llaneros a fine opportunity for testing their ability
in coping with this, the most spirited animal in the
world. It is also undoubtedly one of the most diffi-
cult performances on cattle-farms, requiring strong
nerve and great skill on the part of the rider to with-
stand the kicks and plunges of the animal and retain
his seat. The method practised in the Llanos differs
but little from that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres,
so ably described by Sir Francis Head, Darwin, and
other eminent writers. I will quote some passages
from the first of these authors respecting this diver-
tisement among the Gauchos ; their method I specially
commend to the numerous disciples of the renowned
Rarey, who has so astonished the Old "World and the
New with his wonderful skill in horse-taming.

" The corral was quite full of horses, most of which
were young ones, about three and four years old. The
capataz, mounted on a strong, steady horse, rode into
the corral, and threw his lazo over the neck of a young
horse, and dragged him to the gate. For some time he
was very unwilling to leave his comrades, but the
moment he was forced out of the corral, his first idea
was to gallop away ; however, the jerk of the lazo
checked him in a most effectual manner. The peons
now ran after him on foot, and threw the lazo over
his four legs, just above the fetlocks, and twitching
it, they pulled his legs from under him so suddenly,
that I really thought the fall he got had killed him.
In an instant a Gaucho was seated upon his head, and

WILD HORSES.

77

with, his long knife, in a few seconds he cut off the
whole of the horse's mane, while'another cut the hair
from the end of his tail. This they told me is a mark
that the horse has been once mounted. They then
put a piece of hide into his mouth to serve as a bit,
and a strong hide-halter on his head. The Gaucho
who was to mount, arranged his spurs, which were
unusually long and sharp, and while two men held
the animal by his ears, he put on the saddle, which he
girthed extremely tight ; he then caught hold of the
horse's ear and in an instant vaulted into the saddle ;
upon which the man who was holding the horse by
the halter, threw the end of it to the rider, and from
that moment no one seemed to take any further notice
of him. The horse instantly began to jump in a man-
ner which made it very difficult for the rider to keep
his seat, and quite different from the kick or plunge
of an English horse ; however, the Gaucho's spur soon
set him going, and off he galloped, doing every thing
in his power to throw his rider. Another horse was
immediately brought from the corral, and so quick was
the operation, that twelve Gauchos were mounted in
a space which, I think, hardly exceeded an hour."

"It was singular to see the different manner in
which the different horses behaved. Some would
actually scream while the Gauchos were girthing the
saddle upon their backs ; some would instantly lie
down and roll over it ; while some would stand with-
out being held, their legs stiff and in unnatural direc-
tions, their necks half bent towards their tails, and
looking so vicious and sulky, that I could not help
thinking I could not have mounted one of them for

78 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

any reward that could be offered me ; and they were
invariably the most *diffienlt to subdue."

By repeating this treatment a number of times,
and a sound thrashing with the chaparro whenever
they prove refractory, the riders finally succeed in
conquering the indomitable spirit of their steeds,
although they long retain a vicious propensity to
occasionally practise their old tricks, either by throw-
ing themselves backwards upon their riders, or sud-
denly plunging headlong at a furious rate. Another
dangerous habit is that of whirling rapidly, when least
expected, in an opposite direction to the one intended
by the rider, who, unless very expert, is unseated and
liable to have his neck broken. But, when these
horses are at length thoroughly broken in, there are
few in the world capable of performing their duty so
well as those trained in the Llanos of Venezuela.

My allusion on a former page to the renowned
Earey, recalls to my memory the name of Santos
Nieves, a famous picador of San Pablo, whose ingen-
ious mode of entrapping horses appears to have been
formed on the same principle as that which has char-
acterized Mr. Rarey's method.

Instead of dashing after the droves, with lazo in
hand, and wild shouts, as is usual when the capture
of one or more horses is intended, Santos Nieves made
use of every precaution to avoid giving these shy crea-
tures the least alarm ; and so successfully were all his
expeditions executed, that he achieved for himself the
tremendous reputation of being a horse-witch. His
plan was, however, the simplest possible. If the
object was to capture only a single animal — which

WILD HORSES. 79

feat is peculiarly difficult to accomplish in woody
places especially — he made preparations as if for a
long journey, previous to seeking the haunts of his in-
tended captive. Having sojourned in San Pablo for
over half a century, he was thoroughly acquainted with
all their accustomed places of resort. The first impulse
of the animal on finding himself followed, was to scam-
per off; but the patient picador, instead of hurrying in
pursuit, quietly remained on the same spot, watching
and waiting the next move of the animal. Presently
the horse, seeing he was not pursued, would conclude
to return and reconnoitre the object of his alarm. Sat-
isfied from the quiet attitude of the man, that nothing
need be feared from him, the horse resumed his brous-
ing near by. Again the man cautiously and slowly
advances, until perceived anew by the horse, who, as
before, beats a rapid retreat. Impelled by curiosity,
he returned for the third time ; again inspects the
picador, who remains motionless as before, upon seeing
which, the animal concludes he may safely continue
his meal. These manceuvrings, again and again re-
peated, usually occupied an entire day, towards the
close of which, if the horse were not very scary, the
picador, with cautious approach and gentle words,
succeeded in placing the halter around his neck.
The extreme coyness, however, of most of these ani-
mals, frequently compelled Santos Nieves to camp out
for the night and resume his pursuit, not only the fol-
lowing morning, but, if necessary, for three or more
consecutive days, at the end of which he always re-
turned in triumph with his captive to the farm.

The relative value of these horses depends princi-

80 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

pally on their form, color, and gait. The Llaneros are
quite skilful in teaching them a variety of paces and
evolutions, which are as essential to their hazardous
occupations, as is the helm to the mariner. For war
purposes, they are especially invaluable, as was prac-
tically demonstrated in the long struggle with the
Spaniards, who not being equally expert in the man-
agement of their steeds, were, in consequence, often at
the mercy of their antagonists. A good charger must
be endowed with an easy mouth, good wind, and quick
movement to either side, so that when pursued by
an enemy, he can be made to whirl suddenly to the
attack if necessary. The same rule applies to those
used in chasing wild animals, especially bulls, which,
when hotly pursued, often face about and charge their
assailants.

It is equally indispensable in warm climates, that
a horse should possess an easy gait for travelling. In
this respect, they are trained to the particular fancy
or requirements of the rider. Some prefer a gentle
trot on a long journey, as being the least fatiguing to
the horse ; but, for city riding, or short journeys, an
amble, rack, or pasitrote — something between both —
is usually adopted. The test of a good pacing horse
consists in " the rider being able to carry a glass of
water in his hand without spilling," while that of a
first-rate charger is to stop, when at the height of
his speed, on the slightest pull of the bridle.

Great regard is also paid to the color of horses ;
piebald, cream, and the various shades of white, are
usually preferred. But, where great endurance and
strength are requisite, connoisseurs generally select

WILD HORSES.

81

those of a darker color. Their price in the country is
greatly enhanced of late in consequence of a devas-
tating disease, which has been raging among them for
several years past. Horses were so plentiful in the
Llanos at one time, that a large export trade in their
hides was carried on with foreign countries. A good
horse, which then only brought five dollars, now costs
from eighty to one hundred, and even more, according
to the fancy of the parties interested. — Great numbers
of the inhabitants were also carried away by the same
scourge, which swept over the land like the cholera,
not even sparing the fish in the rivers.

This frightful epidemic, which the Llaneros have
appropriately styled Peste, or plague, is supposed to
have originated in the great primeval forest of San
Camilo, at the head waters of the Apure, from decom-
position of the vegetable detritus accumulated there
during centuries. From thence, travelling eastward
along the course of the river, the epidemic continued
its ravages among the inhabitants of the towns and
villages situated on the right bank, attacking first one
place and then another, until the whole province
scarcely escaped depopulation. Even when the mor-
tality abated, the country, which until then had pos-
sessed a most healthful climate, never recovered its
former salubrity ; fevers of a more or less dangerous
character prevail from that time, especially towards
the end of the rainy season, while the raising of horses
has been entirely abandoned in consequence.

The first symptoms of the epidemic appeared
among the crocodiles, whose hideous carcasses might
then be seen floating down the stream in such pro-
4*

82 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

digious numbers, that both the waters and air of that
fine region were tainted with their effluvium. It was
observed that they were first seized with a violent fit
of coughing, followed by a black vomit which com-
pelled them to quit their watery home, and finally find
a grave amongst the thickets on the river banks.
The disease next attacked the fish and other inhabit-
ants of the water, with equal violence, until it was
feared the streams would be depopulated. The fearful
mortality among them can be better estimated from
the fact that, for more than a month, the rippling
waves of that noble river, the Apure, were constantly
washing down masses of putrefaction, its placid sur-
face being by them actually hidden from view for
several weeks.

The next victims were the pachidennata of the
swamps, and it was a pitiable sight to see the sluggish
chigilires (capyvaras) and the grizzly wild-boars
dragging their paralyzed hind-quarters after them;
hence the name of derrengadera, applied to this
disease.

Not even monkeys in their aerial retreats, escaped
the contagion, and their melancholy cries resounded
day and night through the woods like wailings of the
eternally lost.

It is a singular fact, that while the scourge did not
spare any of the countless droves of horses roaming
the savannas of the Apure, and adjacent plains, don-
keys arid horned cattle were seldom, if ever, attacked,
so that, by their aid, the owners of cattle-farms were
enabled to prevent the entire dispersion of their herds.

A curious incident related in connection with this

WILD HORSES.

83

public calamity, is very current in the Llanos, respect-
ing the origin of the disease among horses. Eugenio
Torralva, a man of uncommon industry, although of
humble extraction, had accumulated quite a hand-
some fortune by the raising of cattle, on the borders
of La Portuguesa ; but his chief wealth consisted in
horses, on which he greatly prided himself — so much
so that, on one occasion, while a distinguised person-
age was passing through his estate, Torralva directed
his attention to the numerous droves grazing in the
plains; then turning to his guest, who appeared
equally delighted with the sight, said to him, " Think
you, General, that I shall ever be in want of horses ?
Ni que Dios quiera! (Not even if God Almighty
wished it!)" he blasphemously added. Two years
later, the witness to this impious boast was again on
his way to the Llanos : near San Juan he met an old
man, apparently in a very destitute condition, riding
a donkey. Not knowing who the wayfarer was, he
bowed, as is customary, and rode on without taking
further notice of the old man or his uncouth equip-
ment ; whereupon the stranger, waving his hand to
him, cried, "Why, General, have you already for-
gotten your friend Torralva ? " He that " giveth and
taketh away " had deprived him of every horse, and
the once wealthy farmer was now compelled to travel
on an ass. It is asserted by the Llaneros that soon
after he uttered the above-mentioned blasphemy, the
Peste broke out among his immense stock, from
whence they say the disease spread to other farms,
until the contagion became general.

It is not a little singular that although the horse

84:

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

was unknown to the aborigines of America, at the
time of its conquest, the researches of Darwin and
other eminent geologists have shown them to have
existed in vast numbers on that continent contempora-
neously with the Mastodon, Megatherium, Mylodon,
and other extinct animals. " Certainly, it is a marvel-
lous fact, in the history of mammalia," observes that
assiduous explorer, " that in South America a native
horse should have lived and disappeared, to be suc-
ceeded, in after ages, by the countless herds descended
from the few introduced by the Spanish colonists ! "

In general these animals are of middling size, and,,
like their progenitor, the Andalusian horse, endowed
with a fiery spirit, (if not checked by ill-treatment or
abuse,) and surprising endurance, especially during
the exciting chase of wild cattle, when they are kept
in constant motion for many consecutive days.

CHAPTER VII.

ACKOSS THE P AM PAS.

EAELT in the morning of the fifth day, we left the
.Ranch at La Yegiiera to journey southward, followed
by our long train of baggage mules and relay horses,
our good-natured host and keeper, Agapito, escorting
us for some distance in the double capacity of guide
and entertainer. Without his assistance it would
have been difficult for us to proceed on our journey,
which lay across a rolling prairie, covered in some
places by magnificent groves of tall timber trees and
a vast multitude of slender, towering palms, which,
by the glimmering light of the stars, appeared like a
mighty fleet of ships guarding the entrance to some
giant harbor. Although the morning was dark, and
there was properly speaking no road, but only a
beaten track branching off in all directions, our
guide, who knew every inch of the ground, led us
on without once turning to the right or left, merrily
chanting some of the lively ballads of the Llanos.
Occasionally he was joined by other bards equally

86 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

distinguished for their powers of voice and versifica-
tion, thus producing very animated choruses of a
character peculiarly wild.

As the sun rose in the horizon, we came upon
another extensive plateau, the Mesa del Rastro,
stretching for several miles, unbroken by a single
tree or shrub, but alive with numberless herds of
cattle roaming in all directions, while flocks of birds
of every plumage, all new to me, flew affrighted at
our approach, filling the air with their wild, peculiar
cries. Among these, the Taro-taro, a large bird of
the Ibis tribe, which derives its name from its bell-
like notes, and the Carretero or carter, a beautiful
species of goose with variegated plumage and crimson
bill, particularly attracted my attention. The latter
is named from the rumbling noise it makes when on
the wing, similar in sound to the rumbling of cart-
wheels on hard ground.

Continuing our march over this seemingly inter-
minable plain, we at length descried in the horizon
the village of El Rastro, where we purposed break-
fasting and spending the hottest part of the day. We
were cordially received and entertained at the house
of Senor Llovera, a wealthy neighbor of ours, whose
lands extended from the southern boundary of San
Pablo to this village.

El Rastro is noted for the beauty and fresh com-
plexion of the women, in spite of an ardent climate ;
and the males for their singular propensity to abstract
the hair from the manes and tails of horses stopping
at their village. This they often practise under the
very noses of the unfortunate owners, for the purpose

ACROSS THE PAMPAS.

87

of converting it into halters for their own steeds.
Thus many a fine animal, which is supposed to be se-
curely quartered for the night, is found next morning
so shamefully disfigured that he can scarcely be rec-
ognized by his owner, who swears by all the saints
in the calendar to take summary vengeance on the
first rastrero* who may chance to cross his path.
Fortunately we had no cause of complaint, as our
droves were constantly under the surveillance of a
dozen or more vigilant keepers, perfectly au fait to
the peculiar taste of that community.

The beautiful complexion of the women is the
more extraordinary from the fact that this village,
which stands on the southern edge of the plateau, is
entirely exposed to the glare of a tropical sun, and the
hot breezes of the east. I nowhere met during my
journey, such rosy cheeks and sparkling eyes as in
this miserable hamlet. I could almost fancy them
the fairies of the wilderness, bewitching the unsus-
pecting traveller, while their perfidious helpmates
practise their rascally tricks.

These high terraces possess the advantage of being
free from those noxious exhalations which render the
plains below so unhealthy at certain seasons. Owing
to the nature of the soil, mostly composed of a loose
conglomerate or shingle, no permanent deposits of
stagnant water are formed, endangering the health of
the inhabitants, who are often blessed with a " green
old age" and the possession of unimpaired mental
and bodily faculties. Many are the instances where

* Rastrero — a native of El Rastro — literally, a mean rogue.

88 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

men attaining seventy and eighty years are still able
to take part in the hardy ventures of the country
along with their more youthful companions. Among
our own party we had several individuals of this class
who, after experiencing all the vicissitudes of a de-
structive war, had seen many a hot summer roll by,
and camped out amidst the drenching showers of the
rainy season, without any material change in their
physique. Of these were Santos Nieves, the horse
tamer, whose only food consisted of jerked beef,
cheese, and papelon, upon which he had thrived ad-
mirably up to the age of seventy; Crisostomo, the
negro major domo of San Pablo, who had lost all
recollection of his earlier days; Conrado, the horse
driver, whose age and experience in conducting our
refractory madrinas had entitled him to the revered
appelation of taita or father. But the most extra-
ordinary instance of longevity which has come to my
ears, is in the Monagas family, also hailing from those
regions, the age and number of whose members se-
riously alarmed the republic at one time; for the
multitude of their rapacious demands appeared end-
less. The patriarch of the family is said to have at-
tained the moderate age of one hundred and twenty
years, yet was able to scour the savannas on horse-
back after the cattle up to the time of his death. The
memorable Jose Tadeo, the late Dictator and tyrant
of the republic, is yet in his prime at the age of
seventy-nine, while his brothers Gregorio and Jose
Francisco, whose vandalic career of plunder and as-
sassination was — happily for the country that gave
them birth — cut off by a late revolution, did not

ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 39

show the least signs of unabated vigor at the time of
their death, although one of them was considerably
older than Tadeo. And last, though not least, the
renowned zambo general, Sotillo, the pet bull-dog of
the family, to which, however, he bears no other re-
lationship than that existing among rogues of the
same stamp : although then in his eightieth year, he
was able to carry on a successful partisan warfare
against the existing government. Without a roof to
shelter him, and no other equipment of war than the
lance and horse, this savage chieftain, for such he is
by birth and education, has set at defiance all the
forces sent in his pursuit, and nearly brought the
country to the verge of barbarism in his strivings to
uphold the iniquitous claims of this rapacious family.
Fierce in looks and menacing in tone, with a head
more like a polar bear than a South American savage,
he has become for a long time the terror of the eastern
provinces, which are in constant dread of his sudden
attacks— now cutting off small detachments of troops
and defenceless individuals, now retreating to his
fastness amidst the arid plains of the Alto Llano at
the approach of a superior force. He has even, suc-
ceeded in defeating such on two or three occasions by
his cunning manoeuvring and the rapidity of his
movements. During half 4 century, his favorite oc-
cupation has been hunting wild cattle and waging a
guerilla warfare against society, which too often has
been compelled to yield to the savage demands of
this Bedouin of the Llanos.

Having partaken of a substantial breakfast, we

90 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

bade adieu to our kind host, and again betook our-
selves to our long and weary journey across the Pam-
pas. Descending to the plain, stretching for a thou-
sand miles to the foot of the Bolivian Andes, we at
once entered into an entirely different country, show-
ing unmistakable proofs of a diluvial origin. The
soil, mostly a mixture of clay and sand, no longer
offended the feet of our horses with those extensive
beds of pebbles so trying to the poor beasts. The
vegetation, also, whenever favored by some accident
of the ground, showed a marked difference in charac-
ter. The thorny mimosas, which only thrive in a
gravelly soil, here disappeared altogether, and were
replaced by dense groves of laurel and other balsam-
iferous trees. The Copernicia palms, so extensively
used for thatching and other economic purposes, re-
appeared at first in a few scattered clumps, and after-
wards in countless multitudes, literally closing the
perspective with their tall, slender trunks. This
beautiful palm is known in the country under various
names, according to the uses made of its separate
parts. These are almost as numerous as the leaves
of its dense, symmetrical foliage. Thus, by the rural
architect of the Llanos, it is called palma de cobija —
thatch palm. When its leaves are plaited and neatly
braided into hats that never wear out, it bears the
name of palma de sombrero / and when the same are
employed in driving off the myriads of flies that in-
fest the premises, or in fanning the heated dweller in
those regions, it is called palma abanico ; and so on
through a long catalogue.

A house thatched with this palm is not only im-

ACROSS THE PAMPAS.

91

pervious to the pouring showers of the tropics, but
against fire also, as it is nearly incombustible : a hot
coal dropped on it will only burn slowly where it
falls, without spreading or raising any flame. It is,
moreover, very durable and cool throughout the hot-
test months. All the fences and corrals of the region
where it abounds are made of the entire trunks of this
palm, while the cattle find a grateful shelter under its
dense shade. The slowness of its growth, observable
even after centuries have elapsed, is another curious
peculiarity of this palm. When Europeans first pen-
etrated this wild region, they found extensive tracks
covered with low, apparently stunted plants, a few
inches only above ground. According to the recol-
lection of the oldest inhabitants, of whom there are
many in the country, as I have already stated, these
dwarfish palm forests have not altered very percep-
tibly during their lives. It must therefore have taken
a full-grown plant thousands of years to attain the
height of twenty feet, which is their average size.

Emerging from these extensive palmares — palm
forests — we again found ourselves in the midst of the
boundless plain, assuming here as desolate an aspect
as if fire had passed over its entire surface, a dreary
waste of dried-up swamps, parched by the burning
sun. Dismal tracts of these terroneros, as they are
termed, lay before us, having the appearance of an
extensive honey-comb, over which our jaded beasts
stumbled at every step, increasing our weariness to a
state almost bordering on desperation. The action of
the rains washing the earth from around the grass
tufts, which are afterwards parched and hardened by

92 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the lieat of the sun, leaves the surface of the ground
covered with numerous little clumps of indurated
clay, so closely packed that there was no footing for
the animals.

Even the cattle seemed to have forsaken this in-
hospitable region, for, with the exception of a few
stragglers, there were no signs of animation. Most
of the cattle are transferred at this season to the fer-
tile shores of the Apure and Portuguesa; or they
abandon of their own accord these dreary wastes for
well-known streams where they allay their thirst.
Ours was intense on this occasion, while the tantaliz-
ing mirage, that singular atmospheric phenomenon so
peculiar to arid deserts, haunted us incessantly with
its rippling, vapory phantom, a feeling in which our
poor beasts seemed to participate, as with outstretched
necks and ears they snuffed in vain the far horizon in
search of the reviving element. By an unpardonable
oversight, our men had neglected to fill their gourds
with water, and now we felt the want of it.

These scenes have been described so graphically
by the eloquent pen of Humboldt, in his " Tableaux
de la Nature," that I will not attempt it further, but
refer my reader to the following :

"When under the vertical rays of the never-
clouded sun, the carbonized tufty covering falls into
dust, the indurated soil cracks asunder as if from the
shock of an earthquake. If at such times two oppos-
ing currents of air, whose conflicts produce a rotary
motion, come in contact with the soil, the plain as-
sumes a strange and singular aspect. Like conical-
shaped clouds, the points of which descend to the

ACROSS THE PAMPAS.

93

earth, the sand rises through the rarified air in the
electrically charged centre of the whirling current,
resembling the loud waterspout dreaded by the ex-
perienced mariner. The lowering sky sheds a dim,
almost straw-colored light on the desolate plain ; the
horizon draws suddenly near ; the steppe seems to con-
tract, and with it the heart of the wanderer. The hot,
dusty particles which fill the air, increase its suffocating
heat, and the east wind blowing over the long-heated
soil brings with it no refreshment, but rather a still
more burning glow. The pools, which the yellow,
fading branches of the fan palm had protected from
evaporation, now gradually disappear. As in the icy
north the animals become torpid with cold, so here,
under the influence of the parching drought, the croco-
dile and the boa become motionless and fall asleep,
deeply buried in the dry mud. Everywhere the death-
threatening drought prevails, and yet, by the play of
the refracted rays of light producing the phenomenon
of the mirage, the thirsty traveller is everywhere pur-
sued by the illusive image of a cool, rippling, watery
mirror. The distant palm bush, apparently raised by
the influence of the contact of unequally heated, and
therefore unequally dense strata of air, hovers above
the ground, from which it is separated by a narrow
intervening margin."

Indeed, so perfect was this illusion of the mirage,
that on one occasion Mr. Thomas and myself were en-
tirely deceived by the appearance of a beautiful lake
which we prepared to sketch. But what was our sur-
prise when, on climbing a tree to obtain a better view,
the phantom disappeared as if by magic ! This occurs

94 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

whenever the spectator places himself above the line
of the natural horizon.

At length we reached a solitary pool of muddy
water in the midst of the savanna, which was hailed
with joy by man and beast; but, on nearer inspec-
tion, the thirsty travellers were seized with disgust
and disappointment on seeing several dead and dying
animals embedded in the mud. These quagmires
form extensive barriers in some places, especially in
dried-up creeks where hundreds of animals perish
every year, being unable to extricate themselves from
the adhesive quality of the clay. At our approach
two hideous alligators rushed into the pond, and thus
the scanty portion that had not been disturbed by
the tramping of animals was in a moment thickened
like the rest. However, there being no other alter-
native, we were compelled to follow the example of
our sturdy Llaneros, who proceeded without much
consideration to dip their calabashes into that species
of mud soup ; then covering the mouths of the totu-
mas with our handkerchiefs, we sucked through them
this miserable substitute for water.

About noon we descried a speck in the horizon,
looking like a sail at sea. Increasing in size as we
neared it, it soon appeared to be a solitary mound or
promontory; by degrees it assumed more distinct-
ness, finally presenting to our view all the luxuri-
ance of tropical vegetation. This was the Mata de
San Pedro, a sort of island grove of splendid forest
trees, which, like a veritable oasis, stood in the midst
of those desert plains, a relief to the parched and
wayworn traveller. Mata is the name by which the

ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 95

natives designate these lovely gems of the Pampas,
no less cherished than are those of the famed African
Desert by the wearied caravan ; like them, they re-
ceive appropriate names from some peculiarity of
feature or other trivial cause, as Mata Gorda, Mata
Redonda, &c. But whatever be the name, all hail
with joy these verdant bowers, a cool retreat to every
species of animal in summer, and a safe refuge during
the season of floods, for, being somewhat higher than
the surrounding country, they are rarely overflowed
by the periodical inundations.

It was entirely dark on our arrival at the Mata,
and we were then so weary that there was little in-
clination evinced to make any preparations for sup-
per, and we were also greatly in need of water. Al-
though the earth was parched by the long drought,
Providence has placed a few feet below the surface
an unlimited supply of the purest water. This can
be obtained at any time by merely digging for it
with a wooden pole sharpened at one end. In the
present instance we were spared this trouble, as some
of our people, well acquainted with the place, knew
where one of these primitive wells could be found.
Our first business, therefore, was to seek for faejaguey
in spite of the deadly rattlesnakes said to abound
there. From this we obtained sufficient water for
ourselves and riding horses, the other animals being
left to shift for themselves, always under the close
vigilance, however, of the watchmen appointed for
the night. These men had a hard task : apart from
the fatigue of keeping awake and on horseback all

96 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

night, they were in constant fear of a sudden stam-
pede among the horses, which not unfrequently oc-
curs. To provide against a contretemps of the sort,
those in immediate use were secured nightly by straps
attached to the feet, which prevented their straying
far from the camp.

We rose very early, judging from the height of
the Lucero or morning star — which in those solitudes
takes the place of town clock — whose brilliancy almost
equals that of the full moon. I nowhere recollect
having seen this gorgeous luminary of morning shed
such radiant streams of light as in the ever-cloudless
sky of the Llanos during the summer months. In
equal proportion all the other heavenly bodies seem
there to vie with each other in heightening the splen-
dor of that glorious firmament, cheering the heart of
the wanderer who finds himself, like the mariner on
the high seas, encompassed only by the vault of
heaven, whose glowing lamps were then our unerring
guide towards the south, enabling us to dispense with
compass or any landmarks by which to direct our
course. Towards evening, we deviated a little from
it, hoping to reach a cattle-farm, intending to pass
the night there; but our horses being almost ex-
hausted from the roughness of the ground, compelled
us to stop by the banks of a treeless creek abounding
in alligators; this we knew by the strong odor of
musk which pervaded the air. In spite of their prox-
imity, which made me start more than once in my
dreams, we slept soundly in our ponchos on the hard
ground, for want of trees from which to sling our
hammocks. This lack of firewood compelled us also

ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 97

to go supperless that night and without breakfast
next morning. After a long search we finally suc-
ceeded in collecting a handful of drift wood along the
banks of the creek, enabling Monico to make us a
stimulating cup of coffee in which to "drown our
sorrows."

Midday brought us to the cattle-farm we were in
quest of, when immediate preparations were made for
an ample meal, which should compensate us for pre-
vious privations. The overseer informed us that not
far from the house was a herd of cattle bearing our
brand. Thither we despatched two men in search of
the fattest among them. In a short time they re-
turned with a fine cow, which was speedily slaugh-
tered and spitted before a blazing fire kindled under
three stupendous mimosa trees bearing flat, kidney-
shaped legumes or pods six inches in circumference.
Our hunger appeased, we spread our ponchos under
the shade of these giants of the vegetable world, and
slept until noon, when we were again in our saddles
prosecuting the journey through a less monotonous
landscape. The plain, although still preserving the
same rough character, was diversified with groves of
other leguminous trees, (Cafiafistulos,) the pods of
which were nearly three feet in length, and contain a
black pulp valuable as a cathartic.

Towards evening we were gratified by seeing, for
the first time, that splendid spectacle, a prairie on
fire. The grass, parched with the burning sun, is
purposely fired by the natives to promote the growth
of the new crop, which last, owing to the heavy dews,
starts long before the rainy season sets in. The con-
5

98 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

flagration extended for more than three miles, the
strong -evening breeze driving it onward in curling
fiery billows. Volumes of smoke loaded with burn-
ing particles of grass, ascended in clouds, increasing
the grandeur and beauty of the scene by their various
tints of red, pink, and purple, diffused throughout the
atmosphere. Aided by this illumination, we were
enabled to discover a solitary ranch, where we tarried
the remainder of the night, although there was noth-
ing to be had there in the shape of edibles. Fortun-
ately one of our party had shot a number of wild
ducks in a lagoon, and a provident individual had
saved some choice morsels of the cow. There was
some difficulty in procuring wood enough for a fire,
but a couple of rafters from the old ranch afforded
the needful fuel, and thus we were happily prevented
passing a supperless, as well as comfortless night.

Many hours before daybreak we were again lip,
saddling and loading our animals, which, owing to
the darkness, was always the most irksome part of
the journey. We were, however, most happy to bid
adieu to the solitary ranch with its myriads of bats,
the only tenants we encountered there.

CHAPTER VIII.

LA POKTTJGUESA.

AGAIN we were under way, and again our eyes en-
countered only the flat monotonous plain on all sides
sweeping to the horizon, varied only in being more
barren, rougher, and consequently more exhausting to
our horses than any of the preceding. Many of the
riders dismounted, that the poor brutes might be re-
lieved as much as possible, and accomplished the re-
mainder of the journey on foot. This occasioned a
burning thirst, which the scant supply of water in our
gourds was not sufficient to allay ; and it was not until
noon had long passed, that our guides, pointing to a
blue ridge of forest in the distance, informed us it
marked the course of the river Portuguesa, our intend-
ed halting place, and on the borders of which we pur-
posed spending several days. The cavalcade, inspir-
ited by this view, pressed forward as rapidly as their
exhausted condition would permit, and fortunately
reached the pass before nightfall.

This beautiful river has its rise in the mountains

100 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of Trujillo, and connects the fertile province of Bari-
nas with the sea, through the Apure and Orinoco,
being in fact one of the principal tributaries of the
former. Its commercial advantages, as may be
imagined, are of great importance to the interior of
a country so distant from the ocean, and whose prin-
cipal products consist in the bulky yield of the plan-
tations. It is navigable during a great portion of the
year, especially for steam vessels, and I am happy
to learn that the great civilizer of the world — steam
—has at length been introduced there through the
enterprising energy of some Yankee speculators.

The banks of the river, being both high and pre-
cipitous, a passage to it can only be accomplished at
certain points, where the hand of man and the tramp
of animals have cut deep trenches, forming paths to
the water's edge. On this occasion, we sought the
pass of San Jaime, where a ferryman is stationed with
a canoe to take across any who desire it. Horses,
however, being excellent swimmers, are left to ferry
themselves over. Our first care on arriving at the
pass was to unload our beasts of burden, and unsaddle
our steeds for the purpose of allowing them to cool
before entering the water, a precaution which, if neg-
lected, not unfrequently proves fatal to both man and
beast. This duty fulfilled, we proceeded to hail the
Canoero, whose ranch was perched upon the south
bank of the river. The knowledge that he would re-
ceive a " real " for every man and beast that crossed,
besides various perquisites from passengers whom he
supplied with meals during their sojourn at his ranch,
so expedited his motions, that in a few moments his frail

LA PORTUGUESA. 101

barge received its first load, each person taking his
own chattels with him. A boy of fifteen, naked and
sunburnt, paddled the canoe, while the ferryman
steered it by means of his canalete. The utmost care
was necessary to prevent the overturn of the crazy
skiif, which reeled at every stroke of the paddle,
threatening to pitch all its contents overboard. As
soon as we landed on the opposite shore, the boat re-
turned for a second load, and the trips were repeated
until the whole party had crossed. There now only
remained the horses, who being extremely shy of deep
water, required to be forced to swim across, an op-
eration demanding considerable skill on the part of
the drivers. The only way was to give them an ex-
ample ; accordingly two expert swimmers, divesting
themselves of clothes, jumped upon the bare back
of their horses and plunged incontinently into the
stream. Then, sliding off to one side, they allowed
the horses to swim without encumbrance, supporting
themselves with one hand upon the animal's haunches,
while with the other they guided them by means of
a halter. Meanwhile, those that remained on shore
set up a tremendous shouting and yelling, at the same
time shaking their ponchos violently with the intent
to frighten all the rest of the troop down the steep
embankment, where, encouraged at the sight of the
two ahead, they all entered the stream and followed
their leaders without further difficulty. Several large
crocodiles, who had watched all these proceedings
from the middle of the river, alarmed by the confu-
sion, disappeared from view, and then the heads only
of the leaders and their steeds rose, puffing and snort-

102 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

ing, above water. In spite, however, of all the up-
roar,, one of these men was instantly attacked by ca-
ribes, and very narrowly escaped serious injury from
them. I was standing at the time on the opposite
side of the river, watching this novel mode of ferrying,
and observed that the man, abandoning his horse,
endeavored to reach the bank by long strides, occa-
sionally lashing himself with a coiled lazo he carried
in his hand. It immediately occurred to me that he
might have been attacked by crocodiles, a belief
which was strengthened on seeing the poor fellow's
sides streaming blood as he stepped upon the beach.
My first apprehension was quickly dispelled by his
pointing to a circular wound on his shoulder, about
the size of a quarter dollar, and to others as severe on
various parts of his body, inflicted by caribes. Had
the man been a less expert swimmer, or the water less
agitated, the accident would undoubtedly have proved
more serious ; as it was, we were considerably alarmed
for the fate of the other man, who, however, happily
escaped unhurt.

The surprising boldness of these diminutive fish,
naturally increased my anxiety to examine more mi-
nutely into their peculiarities, than I had yet the op-
portunity of doing. I therefore determined to procure
fresh specimens, if possible. On a former occasion I
had lost most of my trout hooks, but I still preserved
some larger ones, mounted with copper wire, to be
used in the rivers of the Apure ; these I supposed
proof against the teeth of any fish, and no sooner
were we established in the ranch of the ferryman,
than, taking my lines I hastened to the river accom-

LA PORTUGUESA. 103

panied by iny English co-laborer, the artist. The
hooks were baited with pieces of fresh beef, «and
dropped with great precaution near the shore.
Scarcely did the bait touch the water, when it was
seized by caribes. Without allowing them time, as it
seemed, to get the whole of it between their jaws,
we pulled in the lines, but, alas ! minus hooks, as
well as bait. On examination, we discovered that
one of the hooks had been cut through, while the
other was severed from the wire. Still, we persevered,
but invariably with the same unfortunate result.

Greatly annoyed, I turned to question a Llanero,
who stood near laughing at what he considered my
simplicity. Another tapped me gently on the shoul-
der, and addressed me with " JVino9 you might as
well attempt to catch a rattlesnake by the .tail " (a
favorite expression among them) " as to think of
hooking one of those chaps." What is to be done,
then? for I must have at least a couple of these
scoundrels, said I. " Who ever saw a genteel young
gentleman like yourself, with a taste for such disgust-
ing creatures ? " he replied, imagining that I wanted
them for eating. On my explanation that my object
was simply to sketch and preserve them in spirits,
they advised me to procure a piece of tough skin from
the head of an ox which was then being slaughtered,
and to suspend it from a strip of the same material.
I immediately followed their instructions, and shortly
repaired again to the river. Seating myself on the
stern of the canoe, which was moored across the
stream, I dropped my novel bait into the water, and
watched for the result with the utmost interest. In

104 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

a moment a shoal of caribes collected around the bait
and .commenced attacking it voraciously. Finding
the thick cartilage too tough even for their sharp
teeth, and unwilling to give it up, they continued
gnawing at it like so many little hyenas. When I
imagined them to be fairly " stuck " through the
thick skin, I lifted the whole concern over the side
of the canoe, and had the satisfaction of seeing about
a dozen of the fish dancing at the bottom of my barge.
Finding this novel style of fishing rather easy and
entertaining, I continued it until L was suddenly ap-
prised into whose company I had thrust myself by
feeling the heel of my left foot seized by one of the
captives with such violence as caused me to drop my
bait, with the vicious creatures that were hanging
from it, .into the river. My only thought now was
how to contrive my escape, having the whole length
of the canoe to traverse, arid its floor paved with
these ravenous little wretches. My first impulse was
to spring overboard ; but a moment's reflection con-
vinced me that it would be a jump from the " frying
pan into the fire." Placed thus, as it were, between
Scylla and Charybdis, I again appealed to the inge-
nuity of my former advisers for deliverance. This
they readily accomplished by a very simple contriv-
ance, consisting of a gunny bag, which they spread
over the gaping draught of fish. In a moment their
sharp teeth were again at work, this time among the
tough fibres of the bag, to which they clung with the
tenacity of bulldogs, thus enabling us to fish them
out again without difficulty.

My biting experience of these little pests left me

LA PORTUGUESA. 105

iii no mood to spare them, and I never missed an op-
portunity of provoking a bloody conflict among them.
With this view I made it my daily business to scatter
pieces of flesh in the river, which never failed in at-
tracting great numbers to the spot. These devoured
the meat in a few moments, after which, being them-
selves of a red hue, and mistaking each other for the
meat, they continued the feast by devouring one
another, until few of them remained alive. Thus I
accomplished my revenge upon these cannibals of the
finny tribe. The pike and the caribe are, I believe,
the only fish which devour those of their own species
when disabled. " As no one dares to bathe where it
is found," remarks Humboldt in his travels, " it may
be considered as one of the greatest scourges of those
climates, in which the sting of the mosquitoes and the
general irritation of the skin, render the use of baths
so necessary."

Fortunately for mankind, these fish are subject to
a yearly mortality during the heats of summer, when
the water is deprived of a portion of the air it holds
in solution. Their carcasses may then be seen float-
ing on the water by thousands, while the beach is
strewn with their bones, especially their bristling
jaws, which render walking barefoot on the borders
of lagoons extremely dangerous.

To judge from the incessant turmoil in the river
at all hours of the night, besides evident proofs of
their depredations during the day, I concluded that
the havoc they commit on the other denizens of the
water must be very great. Even the armor-clad
crocodiles are not exempt from their attacks, when.

106 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

wounded in their own quarrels, as they sometimes are,
during the season of their loves, for even crocodiles are
subject to jealousy, that other " green-eyed monster." *
The Waraun Indians, whom the first tribe of
cannibals, the Caribs, compelled years ago to seek a
refuge among the flooded lands of the great Delta of
the Orinoco river, and who in consequence live in huts
raised on posts above the water, without even the
allotted space of dry ground to deposit their mortal
remains, have adopted the curious custom of preserv-
ing the bones of their deceased relations suspended
from the roof of their aerial dwellings ; but having no
skilful anatomists among themselves to strip the body
of the more perishable flesh, they avail themselves of
the voracious habits of this fish for so essential a per-
formance. For this purpose they tie the corpse with
a strong rope, and plunge it in the water, securing
the other end of the rope to one of the pillars upon
which their dwellings rest : in less than twenty-four
hours the skeleton is hauled out of the water perfectly
clean, for the teeth of the caribe have stripped it of
flesh, arteries, tendons, etc. Now all that the mourn-
ers have to do is to separate the bones, which they
arrange with much care and nicety in baskets made
for the purpose, gaudily ornamented with beads of va-
rious colors ; and so well have they calculated before-
hand the space the bones will occupy in the funereal
urn, that the skull, tightly adjusted against the sides
of the basket at top, comes to be the lid of it.

* The eyes of crocodiles are green.

.LA PORTUGUESA. 107

During the annual inundation of the savannas,
when quadrupeds perish by thousands in the vernal
deluge, the caribes have ample field for their voracity ;
but living animals are not exempted, for they prey
with equal fierceness upon the young calves when
wading through the marshes, and upon the mothers,
whose udders they so mutilate, that the young ones
frequently perish from lack of nourishment. The
poor cattle lead about this season a truly miserable
life. Those that escape the teeth of the caribe, the
coil of the anaconda, that great water serpent, or the
jaws of the equally dreaded crocodile, are in contin-
ual danger of falling a prey to the lion or the jaguar,
while congregated upon the lancos and other places
left dry amidst the rising waters. None, however,
escape the tormenting sting of myriad insects which,
until the waters subside, fill the air they breathe.
Even at night, when all created beings should rest in
peace, enormous vampires, issuing from the gloomy
recesses of the forest, perch upon the backs of the
sufferers and suck their life blood, all the while lull-
ing them with the flapping of their spurious wings.
In fact, it seems as if in these regions all the elements
conspired against these useful creatures ; for, after
these varied evils have abated with the return of the
dry season, the hand of man is also continually against
them in harassing hunts, or in firing the ripe pastures
which sweep their realms in devastating fury, driving
them in consternation from the fields of their enjoy-
ment.

The crocodiles of this river are noted for being the
most savage and daring in the Llanos. Although

108 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

usually styled yellow caymans, to distinguish them
from the common alligator, which is of a darker hue,
they are in fact real crocodiles, with an acute snout,
like those inhabiting the Nile and other celebrated
rivers of Africa.

While walking along the banks of the Portuguesa,
one may see these huge lizards collected in groups of
half a dozen or more, basking in the sunshine near
the water, with their jaws wide open until their
ghastly palates are filled with flies or other creatures
alighting within them. "We tried in vain shooting
them with guns ; the reptiles were so wary, that the
moment we took aim they rushed into the water.
Being at a loss how to procure a subject for my pen-
cil, I sought the advice of an old man, an angler by
profession, who lived in one of the huts near the river.
He agreed to let me have his canoe with his son to
paddle it, and the requisite number of harpoons, pro-
viding I could obtain the assistance of an Indian boy
from the neighborhood, who was a capital marksman
with the bow and arrow. " What ! " I exclaimed in
astonishment, " do we expect to kill one of these
monsters with so slight a thing as an arrow ? "
" No, Senorito," he calmly answered ; " but you
must first know where to find him under water
before you can strike him with the harpoon ; the
arrow of which I speak is the kind we use in catching
turtles." These arrows are constructed so as to allow
the head, affixed to the shaft somewhat in the manner
of a lance, to come off the moment it strikes an object
in the water. A slender cord, several feet in length,

LA PORTUGUESA. 1Q9

connects it with the shaft, which last is made of a
light, buoyant reed ; around this the cord is wound
closely until it reaches the point where the head is,
then fastened securely. The shaft being extremely
light, floats on the surface of the water the moment
it is set free from the head by the struggles of the an-
imal, thus acting as a guide for its recovery.

The old angler then proceeded to explain that the
operation must be conducted first by sending one of
these arrows into the body of the crocodile to mark
his position under water ; and then, if practicable, we
might plunge a harpoon into the only vulnerable spot
we could hope to reach, viz., the nape of the neck,
after which the animal could be easily dragged on
shore by means of strong ropes attached to the har-
poon.

Accordingly, I went in search of the Indian boy,
whom I found under a tree, seated like a toad on his
haunches, skinning a porcupine he had just killed.
At my approach he raised his head and fixed on me
his unmeaning eyes. When spoken to, he only re-
plied to all my questions with the monosyllables, si,
no. After a little coaxing, and the promise of some
fish hooks, he followed me to the canoe without ut-
tering a word more. We were not long in getting a
chance to test the skill of my new acquaintance. As
we approached the river banks, a large crocodile hove
in sight, floating down the stream like a log of wood.
Our position was most favorable to send an arrow
rattling through his scales, and my young Nimrod
lost no time in improving the opportunity. Stepping
a few paces in advance, and bending gracefully over

HO TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the precipice, he let fly at the reptile's head his slen-
der, yellow reed, por elevation, viz., shooting the
arrow up into the air at an angle of forty-five, which
causes it to descend with great force upon the object,
after describing an arc of a circle in the manner of a
bomb-shell. Although the distance was fully three
hundred paces, the arrow struck the mark with the
precision of a rifle ball. A violent plunge of the
huge reptile was my first intimation that the trial had
been successful, and a moment after I perceived the
golden reed, now attached to him, skimming swiftly
over the surface of the water. We hastened for the
canoe, and immediately gave chase up the stream, as
the crocodile had taken that direction. We were
rapidly gaining upon him, when, alarmed at the sound
of the paddles, he sunk in very deep water, as was in-
dicated by the reed. This circumstance rendered it
impossible to employ our harpoon. We tried in vain
to start him ; he stuck to the muddy bottom whence
neither pulls nor curses could move him. We hoped
that in time he would come to the surface to breathe,
and then we might strike him with a harpoon ; but
in this we were equally disappointed. After waiting
for him two hours, we gave him up, along with the
arrow head sticking in his own.

I made various other attempts to secure a speci-
men, but with no better result, as the river was yet
too high to sound for them.

While in this place, I was told several incidents
in relation to the cunning and instinct of these sau-
rians, one of which appeared to me most remarkable
in an animal of the reptile tribe. The ferryman here

LA PORTUGUESA

possessed at one time a great many goats. One day
he perceived that several of them had disappeared,
and not being able to account for it in any other way,
he at once laid the blame on the hated crocodiles,
although these creatures seldom carry their attacks
beyond their own element. His suspicions, he dis-
covered in the end, were well founded, having wit-
nessed the destruction of one of his goats in a very
singular manner. It appeared that a crocodile had in
some mysterious way discovered that goats delight in
jumping from place to place, but more especially
from rocks or mounds. Rocks, however, being rather
scarce in the country, their treacherous enemy under-
took to gratify their taste for this innocent pastime,
and at the same time cater to his own. Approaching
the water's edge to within a few feet from the bank,
he swelled out his back in such a manner as gave it
the appearance of a small island or promontory. The
stupid goats perceiving this, varied their gambols by
jumping from their secure places on shore upon the
seeming island, which they, however, never reached,
for the crocodile, tossing up his head at the right in-
stant, received them into his open jaws, and swallowed
them without difficulty.

Crocodiles have a special penchant for dogs also,
and never miss an opportunity of gratifying their
taste for the canine. In this, however, they are often
balked by the superior cunning of their intended tit-
bits. One day I observed a couple of tiger-hounds
quietly enjoying a cool bath in the river. Struck
with their apparent nonchalance when in such a dan-
gerous proximity, I found on inquiry that these an-

112 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

imals never approach the water, either to drink or to
bathe, without previously attracting the crocodiles by
means of repeated howlings to some distant spot.
This instinct of the dog with regard to crocodiles
seems to be rather of antique date, for I find it re-
corded in the writings of both ancient and modern
travellers in different parts of the world.

No person can venture near the water without
danger from their attacks, being so treacherous that
they approach their intended victim near enough to
strike him with their powerful tails before he is even
aware of their proximity. The bubbling sound of a
gourd being filled in the water by some imprudent
person, specially attracts them. To obviate this
danger, a calabash bowl with a long wooden handle is
usually employed for the purpose ; yet, even this is
not unfrequently snatched from the hands of the
water-carrier. If by accident a human being falls a
prey to this tyrant of the river, the reptile is then
called cebado, which appellation implies every thing
that is bold, ferocious, and treacherous in an animal
of the species, as from that time they not only way-
lay persons, but follow them in the canoes, in hopes
of again securing this dainty morsel. There are,
however, men bold enough to meet the enemy face
to face in his own element. The man who makes up
his mind to this encounter is well aware that this
must be a conflict to the death for one of the antago-
nists. The ferryman related to us a feat of gallantry
worthy of a better cause, performed here by a Llanero
with one of these monsters. The man was on his way
to San Jaime on a pressing errand. Being in haste

LA PORTUGUESA. H3

to get there the same day, he would not wait for the
canoe to be brought to him, bnt prepared to swim
across, assisted by his horse. He had already secured
his saddle and clothes upon his head, as is usual on
similar occasions, when the ferryman cried out to him
to beware of a caiman cebado, then lurking near the
pass, urging upon him, at the same time, to wait for
the canoe. Scorning this advice, the Llanero replied
with characteristic pride, " Let him come ; I was
never yet afraid of man or beast." Then laying aside
a part of his ponderous equipment, he placed his two-
edged dagger between his teeth, and plunged fear-
lessly into the river. He had not proceeded far,
when the monster rose and made quickly towards
him. The ferryman crossed himself devoutly, and
muttered the holy invocation of Jesus, Maria y
Jose ! fearing for the life, and, above all, for the toll
of the imprudent traveller. In the mean time, the
swimmer continued gliding through the water tow-
ards the approaching crocodile. Aware of the impos-
sibility of striking his adversary a mortal blow unless
he could reach the armpit, he awaited the moment
when the reptile should attack him, to throw his sad-
dle at him. This he accomplished so successfully,
that the crocodile, doubtless imagining it to be some
sort of good eating, jumped partly out of the water
to catch it. Instantly the Llanero plunged his dagger
up to the very hilt into the fatal spot. A hoarse
grunt and a tremendous splash showed that the blow
was mortal, for the ferocious monster sunk beneath
the waves to rise no more.

Proud of this achievement, and scorning the tardy

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

assistance of the ferryman, who offered to pick him up
in his canoe, he waved his bloody dagger in the air,
exclaiming, as he did so : " Is there no other about
here ? " and then turning, he swam leisurely back to
take his horse across.

The canoero who related this adventure then
added : " So delighted was I on that occasion, that
I killed my fattest hen to treat the man to a good
sancocJio, for the caiman had devoured all my goats."

But this is only one of the many exploits con-
stantly being enacted in these regions, by the bold
race of men inhabiting them.

There is still living at San Fernando, a town at
the confluence of the Apure and Portuguesa rivers,
another individual equally bold in attacking croco-
diles, in which warfare he uses only a wooden mace
or club. He is possibly one of the greatest swimmers

LA PORTUGUESA.

in that or any other country, having repeatedly ac-
complished the run between San Fernando and El
Diamante — a plantation which he owns three miles
below the town — without once stopping on the way.
Armed with his heavy club in one hand, and a bottle
of rum in the other, to keep himself in good spirits,
this modern Hercules will, for the fun of it, during
a spree, provoke a fight with a caiman cebado; and
so effectual has been his warfare, that he has ac-
tually succeeded in driving them away from the pass,
formerly so infested by them, that scarcely a year
elapsed in which numbers of persons were not carried
off by them, helpless washerwomen especially.

I observed, also, at La Portuguesa, a great num-
ber of fresh- water porpoises or toninas, as they are
called there, swimming with rapidity against the cur-
rent, and bending their backs gracefully like their
congeners of the sea. Crocodiles appeared to avoid
them, and would invariably dive out of the way at
their approach. It is probable that from this circum-
stance arose the current belief that toninas will be-
friend persons when they chance to fall into the water,
against the attacks of crocodiles. It is, moreover, as-
serted that these cetacea will rescue a man from drown-
ing, pushing him on to the shore with their snouts. In
acknowledgment of this animal philanthropy, the hand
of man is there never raised against these inoffensive
creatures ; and so conscious are they of this, that they
seem rather to delight in his neighborhood, sporting
around the canoes which ascend the river, and spouting
jets of water and compressed air like miniature whales.

CHAPTER IX.

THE APURE RIVER.

WE tarried several days at La Portuguesa to afford
our horses time to recover from the fatigues of the
previous rough journeys. We also expected to incor-
porate there another drove, which having been kept
throughout the summer grazing in the ever-verdant
meadows of this river, were now in very fine condi-
tion. In the mean time, we were agreeably occupied
in hunting, fishing and dancing ; the people of the
neighborhood being sufficient for our social enter-
tainments.

Every morning we rode out to the savannas to
hunt an ox for our meals. The remainder of the day
was occupied in scouring the adjacent woods and
plains after our steeds, who seemed as if conscious of
the life that awaited them beyond La Portuguesa ;
for it required all the ingenuity and sagacity of the
Llaneros to discover their hiding-places, and bring
them again to the corrals. The evenings were de-
voted to dancing and singing by the light of half a

THE APURE RIVER.

dozen candiles, or lamps made of burned clay, and
filled with the grease of crocodiles. The habitations
being considerably scattered along the banks of the
river, we employed a number of runners for the pur-
pose of bringing the company to the fandango, as
these nocturnal revelries are called, who came in
canoes or wading through the mud as occasion re-
quired.

And now, retined and courteous reader, picture to
yourself a motley assemblage, brought together with-
out any regard to color, age, or position, under an
open shed or barracoon dimly lighted, and you will
form an idea of our soirees dansantes, which for merri-
ment and courtesy might with good reason have been
the envy of the most polished reunions.

The orchestra was composed of a guitar scarcely
larger than the hand that twanged it, a banjo of huge
proportions, and a couple of noisy maracas, rattle-
boxes made from the shell of the calabash fruit, and
filled with the seed of a Marantha or Indian shot.
No music is considered complete without this accom-
paniment, which, as well as I could judge, filled the
place of castanets, or the less romantic " bones " of
negro minstrelsy. A wooden handle is attached to
each, to enable the performer to shake them to and
fro, which he does with appropriate gestures and con-
tortions expressive of his different emotions. A cor-
responding choir of singers, picked from our own
suite, was attached to the players. All Llaneros are
passionately fond of music, and display considerable
talent, composing many beautiful songs of a national
character, called tonos or trovas llaneras. Few in

118 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the country are not gifted with the power of versifica-
tion, and there are among them many famous impro-
visatori. "Whenever two of these are brought to-
gether, a competition for the laurel crown is the in-
variable consequence. This amicable strife sometimes
occupies several successive hours, ending only when
one of the bards is fairly silenced by the other ; the
victor is then declared the lion of the fete and receives
accordingly not only the congratulations of his ad-
mirers, but also secures the smiles of the most spark-
ling eyes in the company. It is really surprising to
see men, who cannot distinguish one letter of the al-
phabet from another, compose and extemporize poetry
which, although rude in character, is nevertheless full
of interest and significance. Most of their songs and
ballads refer to deeds of valor performed by their own
heroes ; while others recount their love adventures,
and daily struggles with the wild and unsubdued
nature which surrounds them. Their instruments,
when handled with skill, produce very harmonious
sounds. The landola or banjo bears no resemblance
to the one in common use among the negroes of the
States. It is, in fact, a guitar of large proportions,
shaped somewhat like the lute of old. The guitar of
the Llanos is the reverse of its associate the banjo,
being considerably smaller and with only five strings,
on which account it is called Cinco. Still, it is a
very noisy little instrument, all its cords being made
to resound at once by running the fingers of the right
hand up and down over them, while those of the left
stop them at the right moment.

The dancers do not grapple with each other, as is

THE APURE RIVER. H9

the practice among some of the more enlightened,
but dance alone, joining hands occasionally for a few
moments, and then separating and whirling round by
themselves. First, a woman paces round the room
in double-quick step, looking for a partner ; when a
suitable one is found, a graceful waving of the hand-
kerchief summons him before her ; then both go
through their evolutions until the woman chooses to
withdraw. The man then with a polite bow invites
a second partner, and so on to the end of the first
dance. This is styled the Galeron, in which only the
most skilful dancers take part, as it requires great
flexibility of joint and limb to execute all the intricate
and graceful posturings and sway ings of the body,
constituting the principal charm of the performance.
They have a variety of other dances, such as La
Maricela, El Raspon, La Za/pa, &c., all of which,
however, are of the same character, the chief differ-
ence being in the double entendre of the stanzas sung
as accompaniment to the music. La Maricela, espe-
cially, is a very exciting dance, from the satirical Ion
mots hurled by the bard of the evening at each couple
as they pass. The facility with which these verses are
improvised is most amusing, and would even astonish
the most accomplished Neapolitan improvisator e.
Some of them are capital hits upon the personal ap-
pearance, &c., of the dancers, and none fail to find
some point for ridicule.

Three or four days we sojourned among these jolly
people, and then again set out for the scene of our
future adventures, stopping for the night at San,

120 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Jaime, once a thriving town, but now nearly deserted
in consequence of the desolating civil wars which
have afflicted the country for several years. On our
wray thither, we traversed a succession of beautiful
prairies, bound by rings of magnificent forest trees,
and watered by numerous creeks and lagoons filled
with water fowl. Unlike the dreary wastes we had
already crossed, which, " like the ocean, fill the imagi-
ation with the idea of infinity," the plains stretching
between the Portuguesa and Apure rivers are char-
acterized by the rankness and luxuriance of the vege-
tation. Owing to the periodical inundation, the land-
scape wears here the green mantle of spring even
during the hottest months.

This yearly inundation is one of the most curious
phenomena of this region. At the approach of the
rainy season, those two magnificent offsprings of the
Sierra Nevada, the Apure and Portuguesa, tired as it
were of their long repose, suddenly rise in their
heated, muddy beds, and leap over their borders, at
first in playful gambols ; then in fearful and rapid
course, converting these widely extended plains into
a vast lagoon. To the few spots which escape the
general submersion, the inhabitants retire with their
chattels and flocks in canoes held in readiness for the
purpose.

Thus the land is kept in a state of constant irriga-
tion and fertility unsurpassed in any country, although
at the expense of the comfort of the inhabitants, who
are compelled to abandon their homes to the croco-
diles and anacondas of the stream. When the waters
t subside, the intruders are expelled by the rightful

THE APURE RIVER. 121

owners of the dwellings ; the few articles of furniture
they possess replaced in the damp rooms, and they
ao-ain devote themselves to domestic pursuits until the
next inundation forces them anew to seek a home
elsewhere. I was shown at the pass the marks left
by the water on the walls of the cottages, indicating
in some instances a rise of twelve feet.

I was struck with the size and luxuriance of the
trees along the course of these rivers. My attention
was particularly attracted by the saman, a species of
Mimosa, with delicate, feathery flowers of a pinkish
hue, and gigantic, umbrella-shaped boughs. There
is in the valleys of Aragua one of these which, from
time immemorial, has elicited the admiration of
travellers, and received the protection of the law
since the discovery and settlement of the country,
for its magnificent proportions and the great age
which it is supposed to have attained.

Extensive tracts of land are entirely taken up by
individuals of this class. It would be impossible to
conceive any thing more grand in nature than a forest
of these trees. It might be said of them that each is
a forest in itself ; and were all the beautiful parasites
that cling to their trunks and branches for support
spread upon the ground, they would cover several
acres. All along the course of the great rivers Apure,
Guarico, and Portuguesa, the saman is found in such
countless numbers that the combined fleets of the
civilized world might be reconstructed from this in-
exhaustible supply. The axe of the northerner could
readily convert those stupendous forests into vehicles

122

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of commerce and civilization, were it not for the wast-
ing fevers, endemic of that region. ."Now they only
serve as protective haunts for desperate bands of rob-
bers and cut-throats, let loose by unprincipled poli-
ticians.

Equally rank and luxuriant are the grasses in
these alluvial lands. We were compelled to drive
before us all the relay horses and other beasts of bur-
den to open a passage and save our bare feet from
being dreadfully lacerated by the gamelote, a tall,
cutting, and worthless grass, with blades almost as
sharp as a " Toledo." It grows so closely and rapidly
as to obliterate in a few days the paths made by
travellers, killing every other species in its way. Un- *
fortunately, it is perfectly useless as fodder, except
for Chiguires or water-hogs, which feed on it when
nothing better offers, and to the flesh of which it im-
parts its disagreeable flavor ; the gamelote is therefore
consigned to the flames as soon as it is ripe enough
to burn, which it does with as much seeming fury as

THE APURE RIVER. 123

it displayed against the feet and legs of travellers in
its green days.

On the second night of our journey, we pitched
our camp near several ponds, literally crowded with
alligators and fish and water fowl of all varieties,
which kept up a continual strife, to our great discom-
fort. Not only was the water rendered noxious by
the numerous creatures in it, but even the air was
filled with the effluvium and mosquitoes arising there-
from. We were compelled to dig wells in the vicin-
ity of the lagoons to obtain water for our use ; but
no artifice could shield us from the unmerciful attacks
of the mosquitoes, especially the kind called pul-
loneSj from the length and strength of the proboscis.
"We tried in vain to escape their painful sting by roll-
ing ourselves from head to foot in our ponchos and
hammocks, at the peril of suffocation ; the needle-like
proboscis of the insects actually penetrated through
the folds of our covering so as to draw blood. Nor
would the smoke of the blazing fires around the
camp drive them off, as was anticipated. Fortunately,
they only paid us an early visit, retiring all at once
before midnight, and leaving us to the tender mercies
of their kinsfolk, the noisy mosquitoes or zancudos.
These, although not so tormenting with their sting,
were none the less so with their music, while no part
of our bodies could be left uncovered without being
instantly besieged by swarms of these " howling-insect
wolves." This, however, was the only occasion upon
which we were troubled by mosquitoes during our
journey, as they only appear in force during the rainy
season.

124: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

I noticed here for the first time a low range of
hills or medanoS) mere accumulations of sand tossed
from place to place by the winds across the boundless
plain ; to-day, they rise above the surrounding - prai-
ries ; to-morrow, they are levelled with the dust of the
savannas : fit emblem of the ephemeral republics of
the South ! These medanos had been overrun by the
gamelote, giving them the character of permanent
hills, from which the place takes the name of Me-
danos de San Martin.

It is scarcely necessary to say that there was no
temptation to prolong our stay there longer than was
needed by our horses, who revelled all night in the
fine meadows around the lagoons. Packing up once
more, we bade adieu to that inhospitable encampment
long before daylight.

Struggling through miles of gamelote^ we reached
the cattle farm of Corozito towards noon. Don Lu-
ciano Samuel, the proprietor, extended to us the hos-
pitalities of his demesne with the characteristic grace
and frankness of the people in those regions. From
thence to the Pass of Apurito, on the river Apure,
was only a few hours' ride ; and the morning being
the best time for crossing the river with our animals,
we rose early in order to reach it before the breeze
should commence blowing.

Owing to the thick vegetation on its banks, we
did not discover the river until we were close upon
it ; and then, with what delight did I again view the
broad surface of this magnificent stream !

Although born near its shores, I had but a faint
recollection of its broad expanse. Perhaps its turbu-

THE APURE RIVER. 125

/ent waves had rocked my raw-hide cradle during one
of the periodical inundations ; for, from earliest child-
hood, I have borne marks left by the teeth of the
caribe.

"What glorious recollections of the fierce contest
for liberty did its waters bring to memory ! Not the
lordly Thames, with its " woven-winged " argosies,
teeming with the merchandise of the earth ; the en-
chanting Delaware, framed in romantic cottages and
orchard groves ; nor yet the splendid Hudson, re-
nowned for its floating palaces and legends, but more,
that on its banks nestles the home of Irving, awakened
in my breast such emotions of heartfelt admiration as
did this silent messenger from the Sierra Nevada !
There, amidst the thunders of the Heavens and rolling
avalanches, it takes its rise, precipitately descending
to the plain below through a succession of frightful
leaps, which shake the primeval forest to its very
foundations. And so it comes, that its surface is often
loaded with an immense accumulation of fallen trees
from the various zones of vegetation it traverses in its
course. Thus the delicate ferns and other Alpine
plants are commingled with those of the burning
climes below, and finally deposited in the wide estu-
ary forming the delta of the Orinoco. When future
generations shall disentomb them in a petrified state,
their geologists will no doubt attribute this singular
agglomeration to wonderful changes in the temper-
ature of the earth.

The river Apure, properly speaking, is formed by
the confluence of two other streams, the Sarare and
Uribante. The former has its rise among the New

126 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Granadian range of mountains, although a great por-
tion of its waters flow now into the Arauca, conse~
quent on the great deposits of sand and drift wood
accumulating at its mouth.

The Uribante, or Upper Apure, may be consid-
ered the main channel of this river, with a total
length of six hundred and forty miles, five hundred
and sixty-four of which are navigable for large vessels.
It takes the name of Apure after its junction with the
Sarare ; but is again subdivided into several ramifi-
cations called canos or creeks, each of which has a
particular name ; among them, La Ebilla, Apurito
and Apure-Seco are the most important ; these again
unite with the main channel, and form islands of sur-
prising fertility. These islands are invaluable &spo-
treros for the cattle, when other parts of the country
are parched with the droughts of summer, the steep
banks and wide channels of the rivers serving as the
most effectual barriers against their roaming propen-
sities.

The geographical situation of this river, joined as
it is to one of the greatest tributaries of the wide
ocean — the Orinoco — at a point nearly five hundred
miles from its confluence with the sea, stamps it as
one of the most important lines of internal navigation
in the world, and points to the wild region of the
Llanos as a future emporium of civilization. To it all
the products and other natural sources of wealth from
the adjoining provinces will be brought for immediate
exportation to foreign markets ; as, in addition to the
vast area of level country traversed by it, this river
receives the tribute of a hundred navigable streams

THE APURE RIVER. 127

descending from the eastern slope of the Andes of
New Granada and Venezuela.

The width of the Apure varies considerably ac-
cording to the seasons of rains and droughts ; some-
times extending miles beyond its actual channel, but
usually not less than one thousand yards broad.
Humboldt, who measured it at San Fernando in the
month of May, when it had receded to its lowest ebb,
found it to be two hundred and thirty-six toises
broad ; higher up it is considerably wider, gradually
diminishing as it approaches its great confluent. Al-
luding to this singular phenomenon, mostly caused
by evaporation and infiltrations through the dry,
sandy banks of the river, the same eminent traveller
elucidates some curious facts worthy of notice. He
says : " Some idea of the magnitude of these effects
may be formed, from the fact that we found the heat
of the dry sands at different hours of the day from
36° to 52°,* and that of sands covered with three or
four inches of water 32°. The beds of rivers are
heated as far as the depth to which the solar rays can
penetrate, without undergoing too great an expansion
in their passage through the superincumbent strata
of water. Besides, filtration extends in a lateral di-
rection far beyond the bed of the river. The shore,
which appears dry to us, imbibes water as far up as
to the level of the surface of the river. "We saw
water gush out at the distance of fifty toises from the
shore, every time that the Indians struck their oars
into the ground. Now, these sands, wet below but

* Centigrade Thermom.=97' to 126° Fah.

128 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

dry above, and exposed to the solar rays, act like
sponges, and lose the infiltrated water every instant
by evaporation. The vapor that is emitted traverses
the upper stratum of sand strongly heated, and be-
comes sensible to the eye when the air cools towards
evening. As the' beach dries, it draws from the
river new portions of water ; and it may be easily
conceived that this continual alternation of vaporiza-
tion and lateral absorption must cause an immense
loss, difficult to submit to exact calculation. The in-
crease of these losses would be in proportion to the
length of the course of the rivers, if from their source
to their mouth they were equally surrounded by a
flat shore ; but these shores being formed by deposits
from the water, and the water having less velocity in
proportion as it is more remote from its source, throw-
ing down more sediment in the lower than in the
upper part of its course, many rivers in hot climates
undergo a diminution in the quantity of their water
as they approach their outlets. Mr. Barrow observed
these curious effects of sands in the southern part of
Africa, on the banks of the Orange river. They have
also become the subject of a very important discus-
sion in the various hypotheses that have been formed
respecting the course of the Niger."

At the time we crossed the Apure, it was consid-
erably below the average width, as we were then in
the midst of the dry season ; nevertheless, it presented
a formidable obstacle to our progress. There being
only one canoe at the pass, the whole morning was
spent in the transportation of our bulky riding-gear
and luggage ; and the breeze setting in shortly after

THE APURE RIVER. 129

our arrival, the passage of the horses was postponed
until noon, in consequence of the agitated state of the
water. It would have been rather hazardous to ex-
pose our valuable steeds to the " chopping sea,"
which, beating against the animals' nostrils, is apt to
stop their respiration, and as they then lose their
steadiness in swimming, are rendered liable to be
drowned.

"We were met on the opposite bank of the river
by a committee of gentlemen in their shirt sleeves,
like ourselves, commissioned by the inhabitants of
Apurito to tender our Leader the hospitalities of their
village. Prominent among them was the general
overseer of his estate, Commandant Kavago, a tough,
wiry, and weather-beaten individual, whose nose
Nature had made of an unjustifiable length, and who
discoursed in a language peculiar to himself. Indeed,
it required one to be well versed in the jargon of the
Llanos to understand his dissertations upon matters
and things in general ; for he pretended to be a con-
noisseur in every thing, except languages ; the English,
especially, was peculiarly distasteful to his ears, and
whenever he heard us conversing in that tongue, he
declared in his patois, that it reminded him of a pack
of horses neighing to each other. Notwithstanding
his uncouth manner and appearance, our overseer
was a very shrewd fellow, and quite au fait in all
matters appertaining to cattle farms.

As for the village or port of Apurito, it was a

mere assemblage of mud-plastered cottages, thatched,

like all houses in that region, with palm leaves.

Some of them had doors and windows of planed

6*

130 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

boards ; but the greater part were free to whoever
and whatever chose to walk or crawl into them ; no
church, no school-house, no building devoted to pub-
lic meetings of any sort. The Alcalde, that most im-
portant functionary in small Spanish communities,
held his audiences in the narrow corridor of his hut,
while the sola was devoted to the all-absorbing game
of monte. Once a year the Padre, next in importance
to his Honor the Alcalde, paid a visit to the village,
when all the boys and girls who had not been bap-
tized were brought before him at his lodgings, where
the ceremony was performed in a somewhat informal
manner, and without special regard being paid to the
strict injunctions of the Church. There were a few
storehouses scattered along the banks of the river,
where all business transactions were carried on.
These were principally in hides, which are given in
exchange for the few articles of barter brought from
the Orinoco. Hides, in fact, are the bank notes of
the Llanos ; and although rather voluminous and
uncleanly, they change hands as readily as any
" paper " that was ever in " the market." These are
taken to Ciudad Bolivar, formerly Angostura, in
bongos and one-mast sailing vessels called lanchas,
which return laden with salt, knives, blankets, and
printed calicoes, articles of prime necessity among the
inhabitants. Other ports along the Apure, such as
Nutrias and San Fernando, carry on a very extensive
trade in these goods. The first-named town adds
largely to her exports, bringing in the agricultural
products of the adjoining province of Barinas. These
are coffee, cacao, indigo, and tobacco ; the last being

THE APURE RIVER.

highly prized in Germany for meerschaums, and al-
ways obtaining a ready sale at Bolivar.

The course of the Apure being nearly in a straight
line from west to east, the trade winds blowing across
the plains in the summer season play a very impor-
tant part in propelling, even against the current, the
heaviest craft sailing up the river. During the rainy
season, the westerly winds combine with the current
of the stream in expediting the progress of vessels.
Of late, several steamboats have been added to
those already engaged in this traffic ; and I am told
are doing a very profitable business. God speed
them !

" During the time of great floods," writes Hum-
boldt, " the inhabitants of these countries, to avoid the
force of the currents, and the danger arising from the
trunks of trees which these currents bring down, in-
stead of ascending the beds of rivers in their boats,
cross the savannas. To go from San Fernando to the
villages of San Juan de Payara, San Rafael de Ata-
maica, or San Francisco de Capanaparo, they direct
their course due south, as if they were crossing a
single river of twenty leagues broad. The junctions
of the Guarico, the Apure, the Cabullare, and the
Arauca with the Orinoco, form, at a hundred and
sixty leagues from the coast of Guiana, a kind of in-
terior delta, of which hydrography furnishes few ex-
amples in the Old World. According to the height
of the mercury in the barometer, the waters of the
Apure have only a fall of thirty-four toises from San
Fernando to the sea. The fall from the mouths of

132 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the Osage and the Missouri to the bar of the Missis-
sippi is not more considerable. The savannas of
Lower Louisiana everywhere remind us of the sa-
vannas of the Lower Orinoco." — Travels to the Equi-
noxial Regions.

CHAPTER X.

SAVANNAS OF APUKE.

AFTER a thorough examination of animals and
baggage, to see that all was as it ought to be, we left
the uninteresting village of Apurito for our cattle-
estate of San Pablo de Apure, a few miles further
south. As we passed the last house fronting the
river, Mr. Thomas descried a jaguar-skin, which the
owner of the hut had spread to dry upon the fence.
Wishing to examine it more closely, he spurred his
mule ahead and was in the act of seizing the skin,
when the animal, whose view of it had until then been
obstructed by the other beasts, coming unexpectedly
into close proximity with the — to him — fearful object,
drew back in terror, snorting, kicking, and plunging
so violently as to capsize the unlucky artist upon the
sandy beach. The abhorrence with which mules re-
gard the South American tiger, is one of the most
curious phenomena of animal instinct with which I
am acquainted ; not only do they manifest it at sight

134: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of the creature, but also by their scent, while the
animal is still a long distance off, and yet, in most
cases, they have never seen a tiger, as was the case in
the present instance, this mule having been reared in
the potreros of San Pablo de-Paya, where tigers are
rarely, if ever, met with.

After a ride of a few hours through alternate
glades of gigantic mimosas and verdant savannas, we
reached San Pablo before night had cast her gloom
over those solemn wilds. The house was neat and
well located, commanding an extended view of the
country and innumerable herds of cattle grazing in the
distance. There were, besides, a large caney or bar-
racoon for the accommodation of the men and their
chattels, and a detached hut in which the culinary
functions of the establishment were to be performed.

The appellation of San Pablo, conferred on this
farm also — although the owner possessed already
another of the same name — made me suspect that
snakes were not uncommon in that country, the reality
of which fact I ascertained the first time that I strolled
any considerable distance from the house. In a coun-
try where saints are supposed to exert an unbounded
influence over all human affairs, it is not unusual to
give to houses and localities, threatened with some
special calamity, the name of the saint who is consid-
ered the patron or defender from that particular evil :
thus places which are frequently visited by thunder-
storms, are called after Santa Barbara ; those infested
with snakes, receive the name of San Pablo, &c., &c.

Although this farm formed part of the demesne we
came to inspect, we did not remain there longer than

SAVANNAS OF APURE. 135

was absolutely necessary to investigate into its general
condition.

"When the order was given to remove to El Frio —
another farm further westward— we gladly saddled
horses and started off at a brisk pace over those fresh
and beautiful prairies which, with their perpetual
grassy carpet, caused us to feel as if we were coming
into a land of promise and contentment, instead of one
of toil and hardship. Indeed, every thing denoted
that we were now entering on far different scenes from
those we had left across the river. It seemed a ter-
restrial paradise, where a beneficent Providence had
congregated every animal most needed by man. Now
it wras the slender forms of deer in herds bounding
swiftly over the greensward ; now the gristly wild
hogs and capyvaras making hastily for the nearest
swamp to avoid the eager chase of our men. Occa-
sionally might be seen a redoubtable wild bull, retir-
ing sulkily and slowly at the head of his shaggy troop,
as if wishing to dispute our right to enter his domain.
Yegetation, however, seemed to flourish here less than
in other places we had visited, as, excepting a few
scattered palms of a new variety, and some straggling
Matas — which, from the mirage continually before
us, appeared like fairy groves set in clearest water —
nothing but the fine and level lawn met the eye for
many miles.

Unlike the higher plains, where only a coarse
herbage predominates, the savannas of Apure are
characterized by a luxuriant growth of various grasses,
which, like those of the Portuguesa, preserve a uni-
form verdure throughout the year. These grasses —

136 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

some of which are as soft and pliable as silk — are
most important in the economy of cattle-breeding in
the savannas watered by the Apure and its tribu-
taries. The prodigious increase of animals in these
plains is mainly owing to the superiority of the pas-
tures over those of the upper regions of the Llanos,
from whence the farmer is compelled to migrate with
his stock every summer.

I noticed in Apure three varieties of grass, which
in richness of flavor and nutritious qualities can hardly
be. surpassed by any other fodder plants of the tem-
perate zones. In the early part of the rainy season,
the granadilla — a grass reaching to about four feet in
height, with tender succulent blades and panicles of
seed not unlike some varieties of broomcorn — starts
with the earliest showers of spring. It grows with
great rapidity, and is greedily sought by all rumi-
nants ; but being an annual, soon disappears, leaving
no vestige of its existence. In the alluvial bottom-
lands subject to the periodical inundation, two other
grasses, no less esteemed for their nutriment, have an
uninterrupted growth and luxuriance which the hot-
test season cannot blast; these are the carretera,
named from the beautiful prairie-goose that feeds on
it, and the lambedora,, so termed on account of its
softness, animals feeding on it appearing to lick rather
than masticate it. Cattle and horses thrive on it very
perceptibly, and even calves only a fortnight old, may
be left to shift for themselves amidst those nutritious
pastures.

Esteros is the name by which these perennial mead-
ows are there designated. They have moreover the

SAVANNAS OF APURE.

137

advantage of retaining water enough throughout the
year to make them the resort of all kinds of quadru-
peds and of every fowl whom " Nature has taught to
dip the wing in water," the former to allay their
thirst and feast on the fine grass, and the latter for
the purpose of raising their young in the vicinity of
ponds well stocked with fish of all varieties.

No description can convey a just idea of the ap-
pearance presented by the'se lagoons, crowded with
almost every variety of animal. The birds in particu-
lar— most of which belong to the extensive family of
cranes — seern to have migrated there from all quarters
of the globe. These fluttering communities of aquatic
birds are known in the country under the appropriate
name of garzeros, from the many garzas — herons —
predominating in them. The immense number of
these may be conceived from the fact that their colo-
nies sometimes embrace several miles in extent. I
noticed there also various kinds of cranes — garzones —
one of them, called the soldier, from its erect bearing
and martial air — is over five feet in height, with a
bill fully a foot long. The garzas were of various
sizes and colors, some snow-white, some a delicate
blue, others gray or pink, and many of a brilliant
scarlet. Although cranes and herons are species very
nearly allied, yet they verify the old saying, " birds
of a feather flock together," for each keeps quite dis-
tinct from the other. They generally select the
spreading top of a low tree—caujaro — growing in
'vast quantities near the water, in which to build their
nests ; these are of dry sticks very ingeniously inter-
woven among the branches. Well-beaten tracks are

138 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

made under the bushes by the tramp of many sus-
picious characters of the feline tribe, who make these
feathered colonies their favorite resort, where they
improve every opportunity of appropriating any
young birds that may chance to fall from the nests.

As we rode past several ponds, covered with a
kind of water-lily, whose flowers are of a dark purple
color, myriads of ducks, of the small species called
guiriries, rose in the air, actually for the moment ob-
scuring the sun. They uttered a shrill note, clearly
repeating the sound from which they are named, so
that the hunter easily discovers their whereabout.
There were, besides, great numbers of a larger species
of duck — the pato real, or royal duck — so named, I
presume, from a graceful tuft of black feathers with
which it is crowned. Here and there a brace of
carreteros soared over head, uttering their peculiar
rolling notes ; the hoarse quacking of the male bird,
followed by the shrill cries of the female, make perfect
the before-mentioned resemblance to the rumbling of
cartwheels.

During the moulting season, the people in the
neighborhood of these lagoons resort to them from
time to time, and drive without difficulty towards the
farm-house as many of these ducks as they may desire.
I was assured by several reliable individuals that not
far from San Pablo there is a lagoon on the borders
of which a regiment of cavalry once encamped, and
lived during a fortnight exclusively on these birds,
without any apparent diminution of their numbers.

This prodigious exuberance of animal life has
justly entitled the Apure to the reputation of being

SAVANNAS OP APURE.

a land of plenty ; but, alas, it is also a land of death !
as, from the bottom of these extensive marshes mias-
mas of a pestilential nature are continually arising,
which, at certain seasons of the year, render this fine
country almost uninhabitable for man. They are
also the abode of those enormous water-snakes or ana-
condas, known in the country under the name of
culebras de agua, in contradistinction to the boa con-
strictor or traga-venado, so termed on account of the
ease with which it gorges itself with a whole deer at
once. Both of these snakes are also remarkable for the
strength which enables them to crush their victims in
the coils of their huge muscular bodies ; but the ana-
conda is by far the more voracious and bold of the
two, attacking not only inferior animals, such as
deer, capyvaras, and young calves, but even that pride
of the herd, the padrote, cannot always escape the
deadly embrace. Woe to the unsuspecting colt or
heifer, who, panting with thirst and heat, should in-
cautiously plunge into one of these modern Stygian
lakes, for the coil of the monster will in an instant be
around it, followed by a fearful cracking of its bones.
This accomplished, the snake proceeds to cover the
whole mangled body with a slimy secretion from his
mouth which assists him in the process of deglutition.
Should it be a stag — the head of which presents the
formidable obstacle of its huge antlers — the snake
commences by swallowing first the hind quarters,
trusting to time and the natural process of decay for
the head to drop off. In this plight the anaconda is
often found, looking like an immense log, stretched out
in the soft mud of lagoons, whence they are then easily

14:0 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

dragged by means of a lazo, tied to the tail of a horse.
On examining the mouth of one of these snakes, it
will be found that the jaws are furnished with a row
of sharp and crooked teeth, bent inward like tenter
hooks ; with these he seizes his prey, and holds it
securely until the victim, unable to struggle longer,
drops exhausted. "What appears most extraordinary
in these unequal contests, is the tenacity with which
the snake adheres to the soft mud of the lagoon, there
being neither rock nor stump to which he can secure
himself. Nor will the efforts of a large bull, no mat-
ter how powerful, be sufficient to drag the snake one
inch out of his element, unless he is first cut asunder.
In darting upon a quadruped, the anaconda inva-
riably aims at its snout, the animal seldom escaping
when once the terrible fangs have been buried in its
flesh. It is not an unusual thing, however, for a bull
to cut a snake asunder in his violent struggles ; then
the shaggy victor may be seen proudly marching at
the head of his troop with this unsightly trophy hang-
ing from his nose. The toughness of the anaconda's
skin makes it eagerly sought after by the inhabitants
for straps and various other objects susceptible of
injury from friction, as they outwear those made from
any other material. The fat is also much esteemed
for burning, and as a lubricator for the bones and
tendons of persons afflicted with rheumatism, or rigid-
ity of limb. This oil is perfectly clear and transpa-
rent, without any disagreeable odor, and is readily ab-
sorbed into the system by simply rubbing it on the
skin.

Shortly after leaving San Pablo, we had a spirited

SAVANNAS OP APURE.

chase after a herd of wild pigs. There were upwards
of twenty browsing on the borders of a pond, and in an
instant the whole plain — in such repose a few moments
before — resounded with the cries and clatter of our
horsemen in eager pursuit of this delicious game of
the Llanos. Many of the men being provided with
lances, they had no difficulty in despatching most of
those whose fate threw them in the way of the re-
morseless cavaliers. But an old berraco or boar,
which seemed to be the sultan of the grisly commu-
nity, harassed by the combined attacks of several
horsemen, suddenly whirled round and made a gallant
stand, determined, as it appeared, not to give up
without a fierce resistance. At first it was supposed
that three or four men would be sufficient to bring
him down, and that number were accordingly sent
after him ; but finding the engagement protracted,
several others, including myself, went to their assist-
ance. On reaching the spot a fearful spectacle was
presented to us. The infuriated animal, his eyes
shooting fire, and fiercely grinding h*s tusks, stood at
bay a short distance from his aggressors, his mouth
covered with a bloody froth, while one of the men lay
bleeding profusely from a wound on the thigh inflicted
by the sharp tusks of the boar. We learned that
Cipriano, the wounded hunter's name, perceiving that
the lances of his companions only succeeded in irritat-
ing the boar, very foolishly leaped from his saddle,
and drawing his sword, deliberately attacked him
without even taking the precaution of covering his
movements with the sheepskin from his saddle, as is
practised in contests with wild bulls. The man

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

boasted with reason of being the most skilful matador
in all the Apure ; but in this case he did not reckon
on the tough hide of his opponent ; for, at the first
rush of the boar upon him, and in spite of the steadi-
ness with which he aimed the stroke, the well-tem-
pered steel bent like a reed the moment it encountered
the shoulder of the boar, leaving Cipriano completely
at the mercy of the enraged brute. The consequence,
as I have already stated, was a severe gash, almost
laying bare the femoral bone of the unfortunate
matador. The tusks of the wild boar, especially those
of the lower jaw, are so long and sharp, that the ani-
mal makes use of them as a bull does of his horns.
The upper ones rest directly upon the lower, and his
constant grinding of them, especially when he is en-
raged, soon wears the points into a broad and sharp
edge. United, these tusks form a perfect circle five
or six inches in diameter. The services of our surgeon,
Dr. Gallegos, were immediately called into requisition,
who dressed the wound, while the companions of the
suffering hunter endeavored to avenge him. They
rained a shower of lances upon the body of the en-
raged beast, but, apparently, with no better effect ;
for, with one powerful stroke of his tusks, he broke in
two the shaft of some and carried away the head of
others. Doubtless we should have succeeded in fin-
ishing him after a time ; but the helpless condition
of our companion requiring especial care, we placed
him on his saddle, for want of better conveyance, and,
leaving the boar conqueror, proceeded on our journey.
Having killed more animals than we could con-
veniently carry, we selected two fat sows for our

SAVANNAS OF APTTRE.

breakfast, and left the remainder to the flock of
turkey-buzzards which, like a troop of hungry scav-
engers, followed our line of march across the prairies.

I may observe here that the wild boar of the
Llanos is the common hog run wild in consequence
of the little or no care bestowed upon their breeding
in the cattle-farms, and as they find in these swamps
all the elements they require for their development,
viz., roots of various kinds, sweet herbs, eels, snakes,
and mire ad libitum, their propagation is greatly in-
creased. Thus the number of pigs in these savannas is
almost incredible — in the lands of El Frio alone being
estimated at forty thousand — and a just idea may be
formed of their ravages from the fact that, for miles
around, those fine prairies have been completely
ploughed up by them, rendering the ground exceed-
ingly dangerous for horses, and almost useless for
cattle-breeding, by destroying the fine pastures which
are invariably replaced by a crop of worthless weeds.

Wild hogs, nevertheless, sometimes render good
service by destroying the snakes — for which they seem
to have a particular penchant — especially that little
scourge of the savannas of Apure, the dreaded mata-
caballo.

The tails of these hogs being especially long,
and, as usual, twisted, they swing them round con-
tinually when running — a peculiarity which did
not escape a benighted son of Africa, who was being
trained at a cattle-farm to the business of the Llanos,
and which occasioned quite a ludicrous scene at one
of these hunts. He had become already expert in the
use of the lazo, and was one day taken to the savanna

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

by the overseer for the purpose of procuring an ox for
slaughter, when they fell in with a fine hog, which at
once changed their plans, and they immediately gave
him chase. None of the men had lazos, except the
negro, and he was therefore commanded to follow
and secure the game ; but although he rode a very
swift horse, and was often within range of the lazo, he
was observed each time to slacken his pace without

any apparent cause. " Now then, son of

thy mother," the Llanero vociferated, "let

go the lazo, or we will roast thee alive in his stead,"
shouting at him also many other no less characteristic
expressions. But Sambo, waving the lazo over his
head in order to keep the noose open, would again
stop short of his mark, until the pig, who probably
knew by this time that he was wanted, straining every
nerve to reach a swamp hard by, succeeded at last in
gaining a clump of wild plantains that bordered the
ester o. Here the major-domo, losing his small rem-
nant of patience, quickly rode up to him, and dis-
charging sundry lashes with his chaparro upon the
sooty skin of his apprentice, asked him, in a thunder-
ing voice : " How now, my master ', why did ye let the
fellow go without a single effort on thy part to secure
him ? Have not I taught thee well enough how to
handle a lazo, thou sooty imp-? " " Oh ! yessa, mas-
sa," quoth the darkey ; " but, look yer, massa, when,
me wisher to lazo pig, him wisher to lazo me nei-
ther ; " imitating, at the same time, with his arm the
swinging of the pig's tail.

Yery beautiful was the appearance of the many
herds, each headed by its padrote, on all sides dispers-

SAVANNAS OF APURE.

ing at our approach. The bulls are generally of a
grave and quiet disposition when collected in herds,
and rather avoid the approach of man unless provoked
to self-defence, when they become very ferocious.
Each troop is under the control of the most powerful
bull in the drove, a position which is only attained by
dint of strength and courage ; as not only has he to
defend his troop from the attacks of the common ene-
my, but to maintain his supremacy against rival ena-
morados. Thus the padroie, or big father, as he is
appropriately styled, can show many scars upon his
tough hide, received in these fierce combats. If a lion
or jaguar approach during the night, the padrote im-
mediately takes all his measures for the defence of his
post. His first care is to compel the herd into a com-
pact mass, and then advances to engage the enemy in
single combat, from which he rarely fails to come off
victorious. In the mean time the herd, within the
limited space into which they have been congregated,
with heads lowered towards the enemy, prepare to
repulse the intruder and defend their young by a for-
midable array of horns.

Man is the only antagonist whose superiority the
padrote will acknowledge ; but even this is not with-
out an obstinate resistance whenever he has an opportu-
nity. Nor will he retire in a hurry from his pursuers,
but facing about from time to time, often succeeds in
thwarting their intentions and securing an honorable
retreat.

When the sun is high in the meridian, troops of
these noble animals may be seen slowly advancing
towards the nearest mata, seeking to avoid the exces-
7

146 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

sive heat of the day and to enjoy their siesta in cool
retirement. Here they amuse themselves sometimes
in watching over their harems, sometimes in making
their toilet, which is rubbing the point of their horns
against the hard trunk of a palm tree, or any other
convenient object, until they become sharp as awls.
Woe ! then, to the imprudent traveller who, over-
powered by the heat, seeks refuge in one of those
groves, thus intruding upon the sanctuary of his bull-
ship's seraglio. Should he succeed in escaping safe
and sound, his horse is certain of being severely chas-
tised for his master's indiscretion.

An adventurous Briton, who once penetrated into
one of those haunts sacred to Taurus, came very
near losing his life in consequence. He fortunately
escaped with only a few scratches and contusions ; but
his clothes were torn from his body by the horns and
hoofs of the bull. It chanced in this wise : The inten-
sity of the sun's rays had compelled the traveller and
his companion — a shrewd old Llanero, who acted as
guide — to seek shelter under a solitary grove. On a
closer acquaintance they judged it to be the retreat
of a wild bull, from the deep scars observable on the
bark of the trees, evidently caused by some animal's
horns. They were not mistaken, for they soon dis-
covered at a short distance, quietly grazing, the prob-
able owner of the rural retreat. Knowing from ex-
perience that this would be a very unsafe spot for their
siesta, the Llanero advised that they should move off
at once, rather than be ejected thence, as would surely
be the case if they remained much longer. But John
Bull, with characteristic pride, and trusting entirely

SAVANNAS OP APURE. 14.7

to his fine brace of pistols, laughed at the idea of giv-
ing up his comfortable quarters, without at least a
struggle for their possession. Ordering the man to
sling his hammock, he carefully examined his pistols,
after which he retired to his aerial couch. The Llanero
shook his head and very wisely omitted unsaddling
the horses, contenting himself with merely unfastening
the straps. Presently the bull began to advance in
the direction of the mata, which the phlegmatic Eng-
lishman no sooner perceived, than quitting his ham-
mock, he seized his pistols and went to the encounter.
The Llanero crossed himself, and taking the horses
aside, proceeded to secure the saddles and to tie the
lazo to the tail of his own steed. In the mean time
the bull continued leisurely advancing, apparently
without much noticing his uninvited guests ; occasion-
ally, however, uttering deep bellowings expressive of
his displeasure. Bang ! bang ! went the two pistols ;
but before the smoke had cleared, the Llanero beheld
his companion stretched upon the ground and fiercely
trampled under the feet of the infuriated animal.
Swift as thought, the Llanero sprang into the saddle,
and spreading his lazo, whirled it two or three times
above his head ; then let it fall around the horns of
the bull at the very instant he was about to transfix
the prostrate traveller. Thus providentially prevent-
ed from doing further injury, he was easily hamstrung
and finally despatched by the captors. That the Eng-
lishman escaped being instantly killed, can only be
accounted for by the fact that a bull often misses his
aim from the very fury of his attack.

CHAPTER XL

EL FRIO.

ON arriving at El Frio, we were agreeably sur-
prised at finding more spacious accommodations than
we had anticipated. The house, although thatched
like all the rest with palm leaves, was spacious and
well built of pajareque ; that is, the framework of the
walls was of strong posts of timber, well lathed and
plastered over with soft mud mixed with straw. In
addition to a large sola or reception room, it con-
tained three or four sleeping apartments ; but these
last were so full of bats, that it was impossible to pass
a comfortable night in them, especially on account of
the disagreeable odor proceeding from these disgust-
ing creatures, while the incessant bird-like chirping
sound which they made overhead, completely mur-
dered our first night's sleep. "We tried in vain to
smoke them out by means of dried cow dung. They
absented themselves during a portion of the day, but
were sure to return at dusk, bringing with them an
abundant supply of wild berries for their supper,
some of which they were constantly dropping in our

EL FRIO.

hammocks, finally compelling us to seek refuge in the
open air of the corridors and courtyard.

Apart from the mansion stood a row of smaller
structures containing the kitchen and storerooms of
the farm, which being useless to us, we abandoned to
the bats and turkey-buzzards. Our cooking, as usual,
was left to our skilful chef Monico and his satellites,
who preferred the sans f agon style of the camp to
confining themselves in the narrow range of a kitchen.

That which chiefly attracted my attention at this
farm was the substantial nature of the fence encom-
passing the buildings, capable of resisting not only
the sudden rush of a herd of cattle, for which purpose
it was intended, but also a heavy cannonade, in case
of need. It was constructed of enormous blocks of
trees, almost impervious to steel or fire, driven into
the ground, each as close to the other as possible, and
neatly trimmed at top so as to present an even sur-
face. I was unable to comprehend by what means
those monster rails could have been removed from the
forest. This, I afterwards ascertained, had been ac-
complished during the inundation of the savannas,
when they are easily transported in balsas or rafts
made of lighter wood. The trees yielding this ever-
lasting timber are two distinct species of acacias,
known in the country under the euphonious names
of Angelina and Acapro, either of which will turn
the edge of the best tempered steel if great care is not
used. I was shown here two uprights to the princi-
pal gate of the majada or great enclosure for cattle,
nearly a hundred years old, still in perfect preserva-

150 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tion, although standing in soil subject to alternate in-
undations and parching heats.

The majada, also formed of strong posts, was
sufficiently spacious to contain three thousand an-
imals, with compartments for the accommodation of
the herds during the various operations of cattle
farms. Although there was abundant vegetable
material for the comfort or security of the inmates, I
observed here, as everywhere, a total want of shade
trees around the houses. The Llaneros, although
strongly addicted to the " sweets of savage life," are
decidedly opposed to trees in the immediate neighbor-
hood of their dwellings. Trees, say they, attract the
thunderbolt of heaven and the wild beasts of the field,
being besides the natural refuge of snakes and mos-
quitoes during the great floods. This lack of shade
was the more regretted by us as we were then in the
midst of the summer solstice, when the sun pours its
vertical rays upon the dry soil, while each day be-
tween the hours of ten and eleven, a strong breeze
arose, sweeping over the exposed plain, and bringing
with it showers of sand ; this lodged in our mouths,
eyes and ears, and mingled with the food, thus render-
ing it unpalatable even to our carnivorous appetites.
And yet, but a short distance from the house bloomed
an inviting grove, two or three miles in circumfer-
ence ; this a man of taste could have readily converted
into a delightful abode, especially as in the rainy season
the inundation of the surrounding savannas would
permit the approach of vessels from the Orinoco, by
which the owner could supply himself with all the
comforts of civilized life. This charming spot was

EL FRIO.

further embellished by a small lake, where we daily
watered our horses, though not without some risk to
life and limb on account of the babas and caimans
swarming in its depths. Even the shallower portions
were so filled with sting-rays, caribes, and other
aquatic vermin, as to render bathing in it extremely
hazardous. Our ablutions, therefore, were limited to
the occasional scrubbing of our dusty and heated
bodies with wet towels. The fiabas, although still
more repulsive in appearance than their relative of
the long snout — the crocodile — are considered a bonne
fioucke, especially the tail, the flesh of which is said
to rival chicken in its flavor. From this uninviting
fount of the desert, necessity compelled us to replenish
our gourds each afternoon, that the particles of sand
and clay with which it was filled might have time to
settle during the night.

The summer breezes, although disagreeable in
many respects, are yet most necessary, carrying off
noxious exhalations arising from the marshy deposits
which remain in those low grounds long after the
waters have subsided ; otherwise those regions would
be uninhabitable. The Apure is especially salubrious
in the dry season, and were it not for their impru-
dences, the inhabitants would enjoy perfect health
during at least seven months of the year. But these
people, careless of consequences, and trusting to their
iron constitutions, are not deterred, while in the ex-
citement of a long chase, from plunging into one of
these pestiferous marshes after the object of their pur-
suit. The result is a severe reaction of the system,
followed by violent spasms, fevers, or that most horrid

152 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of diseases, elephantiasis or mal de San Lazaro, so
prevalent in the hot regions of tropical America.
Add to this recklessness the great want of medical
resources in the country, and the consequent wretch-
edness and misery can be readily imagined. Never-
theless, the inhabitants seem to care so little about
these endemic vicissitudes, that in time one accustoms
himself also to view them in the same spirit of fatal-
ism which they attach to every event of their lives.

I was never weary of admiring the beauty of the
sky and transparency of the atmosphere at this season.
Objects three or four miles distant appeared as if
actually only a few rods from the beholder, a circum-
stance which often misled me when in my rambles
after game I had to traverse the plain on foot, occa-
sioning frequent disappointments in my reckonings.

The radiation of heat evolved from the earth at
night, produced by the perfect clearness of the sky,
was so great at times as to produce a very sensible
degree of cold, which rendered the use of blankets
quite acceptable ; hence the name of El Frio given
to this estate. The evenings, especially, were so raw
and chilly, that in order to keep warm, we passed a
great portion of the night in revelry and dancing by
moonlight, although not one crinoline graced our
soirees. But we had excellent dancers of the Zapateo,
a sort of " breakdown," in which most of our men
exhibited a flexibility of feet and ankles which would
have done credit to the most accomplished Ethiopian
troop.

Our host no Juan Manuel, as the overseer was
familiarly styled, had engaged the services of a cele-

EL FRIO. 153

brated player on the landola from Banco Largo, and
there being no lack of improvisatori among us, these
nightly revels were conducted with all the eclat that
circumstances would permit. Among the bards who
distinguished themselves most at such times were the
Negro Quintana, an old Sergeant of the Guard, whose
constant attendance for many years on his beloved
Chief and " Master," as he styled the General, had
endeared him to the latter ; and Sarmiento, as the
other was named, who acted in the capacity of capo-
ral to the cattle farm of San Pablo. Both of these
made themselves famous by the wonderful facility
with which they improvised on any given subject.
They occasionally varied the performances by singing
to their guitars ballads whose burden was invariably
some adventure arising from the eventful life in the
pampas. Of these choice morceaux the most popular
were " Mambrun," an imitation of the old French
song, " MalbrooJc s'en fut en guerre" and " Marce-
lino." The hero of this last was a renowned bandit,
who for a long time baffled all eiforts to capture him,
but who finally received his deserts from the hands
of a traitor, who joined his forays for the purpose of
betraying him to his enemies.

Marcelino was a common peon in one of the
cattle farms bordering the river Matiyure, but being
of a restless and daring disposition, preferred the
roving life of a bandit to the more sober occupations
of the farm. Finding himself pursued by the hand
of justice, he was compelled for a time to seek refuge
among the Indians south of the great river Meta, who
are at this day sole tenants of those immeasurable
7*

154: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

wilds. His superior acquirements and boldness soon
gained him the confidence and respect of the savages,
who finally adopted him for their leader, following
him in his marauding expeditions against the defence-
less cattle farms this side of the Arauca. Embold-
ened by success, they attacked the wealthy town of
that name, whence Marcelino carried off a beautiful
woman, the wife of a respectable farmer of the place,
who employed every means in his power to recover
her. All efforts, however, were for a time fruitless,
owing to the wild nature of the country and the cun-
ning of her captor ; but he was finally taken in one
of his expeditions. The intention had been to send
him to Achaguas, with which object he was well
bound and placed under a strong escort ; but being
a great favorite with all classes of Llaneros, who ad-
mire valor in every form, he was finally given in
charge of the famous Manuel Blanco — a rich land
owner of the Apure — at the earnest solicitation of the
latter, who promised to see him safely delivered to
the authorities. On the way thither, however, Mar-
celino managed to give his bondsman the slip, and
escaped to his favorite haunts again. All further
attempts to retake him failing at that time, a bold
sambo from the upper country volunteered to pene-
trate into the unknown region, intending to decoy
him and his savage band to a certain cattle farm
where a strong picket of cavalry would lie in wait.
Having represented to Marcelino that immense
wealth in money and jewels was possessed by the
owners of the farm, the bandit concluded to come out
of his fastness and retrieve his former fame by a bold

EL FRIO. 155

dash at the cattle farm of Herradero. On arriving at
the place, where matters having been arranged as had
been agreed upon between Maldonado — the betray-
er's appropriate name — and the officers of justice, Mar-
celino and his band were surprised. He endeavored
to escape, but Maldonado spurring his horse toward
the unsuspecting bandit, pierced him with his sword.
"Without delaying he then pushed on, followed by the
hateros, to the camp where the unfortunate lady was
still a captive. They found her surrounded by a train
of red skin dames of honor, all of whom were after-
ward distributed as servants among the families of
their conquerors.

Nearly all the Indians of that tribe were destroyed
on this occasion, only a few escaping to the Big
Forest, where they bewailed among the monkeys and
jaguars of those solitudes the loss of their favorite
chieftain. The ballad which commemorates the
event, commences :

" A Marcelino lo mataron
En el hato de Herradero,
Y los Indies lo lloraron
A su capitan vaquero."

Marcelino the bold was slain,

Slain at the farm of Herradero ;

And the Indians lament in vain

Their loved sportsman, chieftain and hero.

Maldonado, who at heart was a rogue of the same
stamp as Marcelino, having tasted of the independent
roving life of the bandit, found it so congenial that he
concluded to follow the illustrious example of his

156 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

former leader and associate ; but wanting in the prin-
cipal traits which had raised the latter to his exalted
position, was speedily destroyed and almost precisely
in the same manner which he had devised for the
overthrow of the renowned Marcelino. Previous to
this, however, Maldonado, in imitation of his former
chieftain, and availing himself of the defenceless state
of the town of Guasdualito, attempted to carry off
from thence la Villafane, a lady celebrated for her
beauty. With this intent, he brought to her door a
horse already saddled for her, and commanded her to
mount and follow him. This she indignantly refused
to do ; but finding all entreaties and resistance of no
avail, she seized some poison from a drawer at hand,
and with resolution worthy of a Roman matron,
placed it to her lips, exclaiming, as she did so, that
she would surely swallow it if he did not instantly
quit her presence. The threat proved successful ; for
the bandit, awed by her heroism, left her.

The business of the pampas required us to be up
at the first peep of dawn. A cup of coffee and milk,
mixed with ground parched corn — which I would
recommend to all travellers on long journeys of this
sort — served us until breakfast time. I amused my-
self during the day sketching in company with my
friend, Mr. Thomas, while the men made their prep-
arations for a grand hunt among the cattle of the
estate. The most important of these arrangements
was that of manufacturing from hides sufficient lazos
for the sport. There is a marked difference between
the skins of bullocks raised in the shady parts of the

EL FRIO. 157

Llanos and those roaming wild over the deserts of the
Apure. Although the former are much thicker, the
lazos made from the hides of cattle constantly ex-
posed to the sun's rays are infinitely stronger. The
lazo is easily made. A fresh hide, spread upon the
ground with the hair downward, is neatly cut into a
long strap two inches wide. This is twisted into a
tight thong and stretched out to dry between two
posts, after which it is well rubbed with fat. When
thoroughly dried, a loop is made at one end ; through
this, when required for use, the thong is passed, forming
the noose or lazo proper, while the other end is firmly
tied to the horse's tail, using its long hair for the pur-
pose. In other parts of South America they fasten
the lazo to a ring in the saddle ; but this arrangement,
besides causing too great strain upon the horse's back,
is fraught with danger to the rider in case of a recoil
from the thong if a break occur. The thorough train-
ing which horses receive in the Llanos is invaluable
in such cases, as not only does the success of the chase
depend on the readiness with which he obeys his
rider, but even after the game is secured with the
lazo, it is necessary that the horse should range in-
stantly on a line with the straggling victim ; but
unless this is effected before the strain comes upon
the lazo, the horse and his rider are inevitably over-
thrown. The hunter, at the moment of using the lazo,
coils a portion of the thong, which he holds with his
left hand, and with the rest forms the running noose,
which is repeatedly whirled around his head to keep
it open. When within reach of his mark, he aims at
the animal's head and throws the noose in such a

158 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

manner as to cause a rapid uncoiling of the thong in
his left hand. Some Llaneros are so expert as to
entangle at the same instant the feet and head of
the animal, on which he is quickly brought to the
ground.

"We were joined at El Frio by another party of
cattle hunters, under the leadership of an old ac-
quaintance, Colonel Castejon, widely celebrated in
the Llanos for great bravery and skill in the pursuits
of the country. He came to help us in the hunt after
wild cattle, and to help himself to as many animals
as he could drive home with his party. We also had
the honor of a visit from the Governor of the Prov-
ince, Senor Arciniega, a jovial, talkative, and well-
informed functionary, and the most accomplished
marksman of the Apure. It was therefore proposed
to have a grand shooting match in the open field, and
with this view we all started one morning for a creek
called Macanillal, about three miles distant, intending
to use the crocodiles, by far the most difficult animal
to shoot, as targets. On entering the woody banks
of the creek, we were agreeably surprised to discover
on the soft mud evident proofs that we had come in
the right direction, not only for our anticipated sport
with the water monsters, but also that we were likely
to have a brush with even a more formidable antag-
onist— the jaguar. Footprints of this splendid an-
imal were so numerous, that we forgot for a time the
crocodiles and made diligent search for the nobler
game. We had small success, however, having no
dogs with us to drive him from the jungle ; for, un-

EL FRIO. 159

less he has the advantage over his adversaries, the
jaguar never shows himself in the day-time.

As we came in sight of the water, I was aston-
ished at seeing its whole surface bubbling as if in a
state of effervescence, and at finding also on nearer
inspection that this was occasioned by the blowing
close to the water's surface of millions of coporos.
Other varieties of fish were also so abundant, that we
shot many near the shore, among them a very fine
catfish.

The report of the guns brought to the surface
numbers of crocodiles, which we prepared to assail
from the high bank of the creek. To our honorable
guest, the Governor, was conceded the privilege of
shooting the first, which he did with great accuracy,
sending a ball directly through one of the creature's
eyes. Still the shot did not kill him instantly, as
would have been the result with any other animal ;
and he plunged through the creek for a time at a
furious rate, lashing the water with his powerful tail,
and causing great commotion among the finny mul-
titude. The other crocodiles in lieu of being
alarmed with the uproar, were only rendered more
inquisitive, dashing forward with gleaming eyes and
tusks, which so fascinated my friend the English
artist, as rather endangered his safety in his eager-
ness to get a thorough view of the reptiles. Forget-
ting his proximity to the precipice, he approached it
so nearly as to miss his footing, and would doubtless
have rolled into one of the open jaws below him, but
for the prompt assistance of a companion, who caught
him as he was in the act of falling.

160 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

From the same place where the first shot was
fired, we succeeded in killing or wounding not less
than twenty crocodiles ; but the banks being high
and precipitous, we could not secure the carcases.
One of these, which lay stranded on a sand bank
across the creek, being characterized by a singular
hump on his back, which added to his already mon-
strous size, I felt a great desire to examine more
closely. To accomplish this, it was necessary to ford
the creek lower down, where I was assured the water
was sufficiently low to allow of walking over. The
undertaking was not, however, without considerable
risk from the numerous sting-rays and caribes. But
my interest in all pertaining to Nature's works helped
me over to the other side, whither I was accompanied
by Roseliano, a youth attached to my family, famed
as a dare-devil. With his assistance I dragged the
crocodile partly out of water, and was examining the
load which nature had placed upon his back, when
Roseliano perceived a movement of one of his eyes,
the other having been shattered by the bullet ; we
supposed he had been by this time quite dead. My
young companion, who had expressed his suspicions
that the crocodile was only feigning death, wishing
to ascertain the truth, proposed stabbing him in the
armpit with his dagger. Before permitting this, I
insisted upon securing the jaws by means of a large
stake which we sharpened at one end and plunged
into his nostrils, and I then leaned upon it with the
whole weight of my body. This precaution saved
my companion, but came very near proving fatal to
myself, as the instant the crocodile felt the cold steel

EL FRIO.

between his ribs he raised his enormous head, lifting
me at least a foot from the ground ; but was pre-
vented from injuring me by the stake which he
caught between his powerful tusks, shattering it to
splinters, and then retreated to the middle of the
creek. His triumph was, however, of short dura-
tion ; for, the blood oozing in torrents from his
wounds, he quickly fell a prey to thousands of
hungry caribes.

Sir Robert Schomburgh relates an incident which
occurred during his ascent of the river Berbice, and
which further demonstrates the tenacity of life in the
cayman. " One was fired at, floating, and the ball
took off the end of the snout ; it received another im-
mediately afterward in the hinder part of the skull
which appeared to have taken effect ; still, the In-
dians were not sparing in their blows, and when there
was not much likelihood of its possessing a spark of
life, it was deposited on the bow of one of the corials.
While the corial was drawn across the rapids, two of
the Arawaaks got courage and took it up in order to
lay it in a more convenient place ; they had just
effected this, when at one bound it jumped out into
the river and disappeared. The Indians looked quite
stupefied, and never afterward could be persuaded to
touch a cayman."

The creek of Macanillal is also famous for its many
water-dogs, or perros de agua (Myopotamus coypos)
and nutrias. The latter is a large species of otter
with a fine glossy fur. The former resembles a
beaver very closely, but has a round tail similar to
that of the opossum. Both animals live in the water,

162 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

coming out occasionally to sun themselves on the
sand banks. In a hut near the scene of our last
crocodile adventure I saw a skin of the water-dog
which measured five feet in length, exclusive of the
tail ; but although I often made diligent search for
this singular amphibious animal, I never had an op-
portunity of making his acquaintance. Like the
otter he is extremely shy, and only the practised eye
of an Indian can trace him near the surface of the
water when he rises to breathe.

CHAPTER XII.

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS.

THE distant bellowing of bulls assembling their
herds — sure sign that the tiger was prowling near
them — lulled us pleasantly to sleep in our hammock-
beds after the fatigues and labors of the day. Not
urifrequently we were treated to a serenading chorus
of araguatos or howling monkeys, and to the hootings
of the titiriji or tiger-owl of the pampas, whose pecu-
liar cries might be readily mistaken, by an unaccus-
tomed ear, for the angry growl of that spotted bandit
of the forest — the jaguar. The neighboring woods
were also the haunts of several other species of owls
and goat-suckers, whose dreary notes wake mournful
echoes by night and fill superstitious imaginations
with fearful and foreboding visions.

The tiger-owl, which may be said to rank among
the feathered tribe as does the jaguar or American
tiger among beasts, is nearly the size of a domestic
turkey. Like his powerful prototype, he is spotted
with black, and seldom makes himself heard except-

IQ4; TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

ing at night, when calling on his mate ; or during his
nocturnal expeditions in the neighborhood of the
farmyard. He is then, not only a terror to the de-
fenceless brood, but also to the younger inmates of
the house, who look upon him with a kind of super-
stitious awe, on which account he sometimes escapes
punishment.

Less imposing in size than the preceding — although
more terrifying in their way — are the ya-acabo and the
pavita — two other species of owl considered harbin-
gers of calamity or death, when heard fluttering
around a house. The first portends an approaching
death among the inmates, and is therefore looked
upon with dread even by men who would not flinch
at the sight of the most formidable bull or jaguar.
Yet that appalling cry, ya acdbo ! ya acdbo ! — it is
finished ! it is finished ! — seems so fraught with evil
mystery, that few hear it unmoved. The only expe-
dient resorted to, in such cases, is to form a cross with
hot ashes in front of the house, which, it is believed,
will drive away this ill-omened messenger. The pavita
— although not larger than a turtle-dove, is also con-
sidered pajaro de mal aguero — a bird of ill-omen — •
being no less — they say — than the departed spirit of
some good-natured relative come to wrarn his kindred
against approaching calamity. In these cases, as it is
believed that nothing is so acceptable to the poor soul
as a few Pater Fosters and Ave Marias, they usually
try to disembarrass themselves of the unwelcome
visitor by reciting aloud several of these prayers, after
crossing themselves twice with much devotion. When-
ever this owl's dreaded cry is heard, it is certain to

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS. 165

be followed by a scene of great confusion and dismay :
the children run to the women and hide behind their
skirts ; the women seek protection from the men ;
while these content themselves with muttering the
holy invocation Ave Maria Purisima ! which is ever
with them the favorite talisman against danger.

Great varieties of goat-suckers — not unlike huge
butterflies fluttering in the light evening breeze — also
make their appearance at sundown, when may be
heard their singularly harsh notes closely resembling
human articulations.

" The harmless, unoffending goat-sucker, from the
time of Aristotle down to the present day " — says
Waterton in his " Wanderings " — " has been in dis-
grace with man. Father has handed down to son,
and author to author, that this nocturnal thief subsists
by milking the flocks. Poor injured little bird of
night ! how sadly hast thou suffered, and how foul a
stain has inattention to facts put upon thy character !
Thou hast never robbed rnan of any part of his prop-
erty, nor deprived the kid of a drop of milk."

" When the moon shines bright, you may have a
fair opportunity of examining the goat-sucker. You
will see it close by the cows, goats, and sheep, jump-
ing up every now and then, under their bellies. Ap-
proach a little nearer — he is not shy, 'he fears no
danger for he knows no sin.' See how the nocturnal
flies are tormenting the herd, and with what dexter-
ity he springs up and catches them as fast as they
alight on the belly, legs and udder of the animals.
Observe how quiet they stand, and how sensible they
seem of his good offices, for they neither strike at him,

166 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

nor hit Mm with their tails, nor tread on him, nor try
to drive him away as an uncivil intruder. Were you
to dissect him and inspect his stomach, you would
find no milk there. It is full of the flies which have
been annoying the herd.

" The prettily mottled plumage of the goat-sucker,
like that of the owl, wants the lustre which is observ-
ed in the feathers of the birds of day. This^ at once,
marks him as a lover of the pale moon's nightly beams.
There are nine species here " (in Demerara). " The
largest appears nearly the size of the English wood-
owl. Its cry is so remarkable, that having once heard
it, you will never forget it. "When night reigns over
these immeasurable wilds, whilst lying in your ham-
mock, you will hear this goat-sucker lamenting like
one in deep distress. A stranger would never con-
ceive it to be the cry of a bird. He would say it was
the departing voice of a midnight murdered victim,
or the last wailing of Niobe for her poor children, be-
fore she was turned into stone. Suppose yourself in
hopeless sorrow, begin with a high loud note, and pro-
nounce, ' ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha,' each note lower
and lower, till the last is scarcely heard, pausing a
moment or two betwixt every note, and you will have
some idea of the moaning of the largest goat-sucker in
Demerara.

" Four other species of the goat-sucker articulate
some words so distinctly, that they have received their
names from the sentences they utter, and absolutely
bewilder the stranger on his arrival at these parts.
The most common one sits down close by your door,
and flies and alights three or four yards before you, as

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS.

you walk along the road, crying, c "Who are you, who,
who, who are yon ? ' Another bids you, < Work away,
work, work, work away.' A third cries mournfully,
4 Willy, come go, Willy, Willy, Willy come go.' And
high up the country a fourth tells you ' Whip poor
Will, whip, whip, whip poor Will.' " *

There is a bird, however, among these nocturnal
serenaders which impresses you with very different
feelings from those produced by the owl species : this
is the Gallineta de monte or forest-hen, a most beau-
tiful creature both in color and in shape, and not un-
like a water-hen in general appearance : the eyes
especially are peculiarly pretty, being of a brilliant
ruby color and scintillate like fire. These birds sing
in concert, and their song — a lively chatter — has a
mystic fascination I am unable to describe. They
are also considered delicate eating ; but unfortunately
are very difficult to catch, for even after being shot,
unless wounded in the l^g, they can outstrip the swift-
est hound, although their wings, being very small,
avail them little. Nature, however, has provided
them with long yellow legs for the purpose.

The ponds and lagoons of the savannas are literally
crowded with other individuals of the feathered tribe,
whose lively notes and incessant chatterings contribute
likewise to enliven the night. The most conspicuous
among them are various species of teal-ducks, such as
guires and yaguasos, and a long-legged plover — alcar-
avan. — This last has the peculiarity of uttering a long,
shrill sound at hourly intervals, thus marking every

* Wanderings in South America.

168 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

hour of the night after the manner of a clock's alarum.
It is easily domesticated in the houses, where it ren-
ders some service, not only by marking time, but also
by giving warning of the approach of strangers.

The aruco is another bird of large size, whose
drum-like notes are often heard in the stillness of
night. In size and plumage it greatly resembles a
turkey ; but its flesh is so spongy, that in lifting one
of these uncouth birds from the ground, it appears like
a mere bundle of feathers. The wings of the male are
provided with a pair of sharp spurs, with which, when
fighting, they greatly injure one another.

Another feature of the cattle-farm is the great num-
ber of carrion vultures and other birds of prey con-
stantly hovering around the houses and corrals, attract-
ed thither by the carcasses of dead animals. The most
conspicuous among them is the zamuro or gallinazo,
(Cathartes Atratus,) that constant companion of rude
civilization in all tropical countries, but an indolent,
greedy and disgusting associate. As, however, they oc-
casionally render service in the capacity of scavengers,
they are generally tolerated among the fowl of the farm-
yard. It is a gregarious bird, and collects in large
flocks on the roof and fences, where, with knowing
glances, they seem to be scanning all the actions of
the inmates. I often amused myself in threatening
them with a missile of some sort ; but they never ap-
peared to notice it, until they perceived me to be in
earnest : then with wings half spread and leaning for-
ward, they watched intently the moment when I should
hurl it at them to evade it by flight or a dodge of the
head. — They build their nests in holes which they dig

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRTON HAWKS.

in the ground. Their young are white, gradually
changing to black as they grow older, and only two
are raised by the parent every year. Although essen-
tially carrion feeders, the olfactories of these birds are
not so sensitive as to discover for them a dead animal
— as many suppose ; — but their sight is very good.
They fly to immense heights, and thence examine every
portion of the ground below them. In doing this they
may often be observed on motionless wing, whirling
round and round in graceful evolutions.

"With the zamuro is often associated another carrion
vulture, the oripopo or turkey-buzzard, (Yultur aura,)
of the same size and with similar habits to the former.
It differs however, from its relative in color — which is
dark brown — and in having its neck more destitute of
feathers. It is also more elegant in form and in its
graceful evolutions through the air than the black
vulture. The turkey-buzzard has a wide geographical
range, having been met by Audubon as far north as
Pennsylvania, and by Darwin in the arid plains of
Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. "When soaring
through the upper regions of the air, it can be at once
recognized by its long, sweeping flight, accompanied
by a buzzing sound, much like the gust of the whirl-
wind, and perfectly audible from a great distance.

The fiey-Zamwo, or king of the vultures, (Yultur
papa,) larger than the foregoing, is the most beautiful
of its kind. Its plumage, resembling down in softness
and fineness, is of a pearly white, excepting the wings,
which are tipped with black. The breast and neck,
although entirely bare of feathers, are decked in the
most brilliant tint of blue, orange, and red, while a sort

170 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of membranous excrescence crowns the head, giving
it a truly royal appearance.

This King of the vultures has also very aristocratic
habits, never associating with any, not even those of
his own tribe. It is a remarkable fact that when he
alights upon a carcass, amidst a flock of other vultures,
all these last retire, or make a circle round the ban-
quet. When his majesty has dined, he flies off, utter-
ing a loud cry, and only then his subjects venture to
approach the carrion.

There is in the more elevated part of the adjoining
province of Barinas, another bird of the same class —
Yultur barbatus — which partakes of the eagle and the
vulture, but is larger than either. It is called in con-
sequence gavilncho — eagle-hawk — and has been seen
at times descending toward the plains. The legs and
wings are very long and powerful. It is said to be
very handsome, but it is extremely shy of man. The
plumage is bluish, red, white and yellow. This
bird joins to the boldness and cruelty of the eagle, the
loathsome voracity of the vultures. It prefers live
flesh, especially that of small quadrupeds, and preys
principally upon rabbits, goats, sheep and even young
calves. It raises only one brood in a season, and
builds its nest amidst the most inaccessible ledges of
the Cordilleras.

I will close the list of the carrion birds of Vene-
zuela with enumerating two others, nearly allied to
the hawk, but partaking also of the characteristics of
the eagle. These are the caricari and chir'guare
(Polyborus Brasiliensis and P. Chimango) correspond-
ing to the caracaras and carrancha of Brazil and

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS.

Buenos Ayres, concerning which Darwin has given
tLis graphic account :

" The caracaras are from their structure placed
among the eagles : we shall soon see how ill they be-
come so high a rank. In their habits they will supply
the place of our carrion crows, magpies and ravens, a
tribe of birds widely distributed over the rest of the
world, but entirely absent in South America.

" The carranchas, together with the chimango,
constantly attend in numbers the estancias and
slaughtering-houses. If an animal dies on the plain,
the gallinazo commences the feast, and then the two
species of Polyborus pick the bones clean. These
birds, although thus commonly feeding together, are
far from being friendly. When the carrancha is
quietly seated on the branch of a tree or on the
ground, the chimango often continues for a long time
flying backward and forward, up and down, in a
semicircle, trying each time at the bottom of the
curve to strike its larger relative. Although the
carranchas frequently assemble in numbers, they are
not gregarious ; for in desert places they may be seen
solitary, or more commonly in pairs.

" The carranchas are said to be very crafty, and
to steal great numbers of eggs. They attempt, also,
together with the chimango, to pick off the scabs
from the sore backs of horses and mules, The poor
animal, on the one hand, with its ears down and its
back arched, and, on the other hand, the hovering
bird, eyeing at the distance of a yard the disgusting
morsel, form a picture, which has been described by
Captain Head with his own peculiar spirit and ac-

172 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

curacy. These false eagles rarely kill any living bird
or animal ; and their vulture-like, necrophagous
habits are very evident to any one who has fallen
asleep on the desolate plains of Patagonia, for when
he wakes he will see, on each surrounding hillock,
one of these birds patiently watching him with an
evil eye ; it is a feature in the landscape of these
countries, which will be recognized by every one who
has wandered over them. If a party of men go out
hunting with dogs and horses, they will be accom-
panied during the day by several of these attendants.
After feeding, the uncovered craw protrudes ; at
such times, and indeed, generally, the carrancha is an
inactive, tame, and cowardly bird. Its flight is heavy
and slow, like that of an English rook. It seldom soars ;
but I have twice seen one at a great height gliding
through the air with great ease. It runs, (in contra-
distinction to hopping,) but not quite so quickly as
some of its congeners. At times the carrancha is
noisy, but is not generally so ; its cry is loud, very
harsh and peculiar, and may be likened to the sound
of the Spanish guttural <?, followed by a rough double
r r ; when uttering this cry, it elevates its head higher
and higher, till at last, with its beak wide open, the
crown almost touches the lower part of the head.
This fact, which has been doubted, is quite true."

These birds are, however, a great blessing to the
inhabitants of the Llanos, who are indebted to them,
not only for the destruction of vast numbers of snakes
and other reptiles, but for the service they render
conjointly with the vultures in consuming the offal
near houses. They seek their food both in dry lands

BIRDS OF ILL OMEN AND CARRION HAWKS. 173

and amidst the swampy borders of rivers ; on the one
they find serpents and lizards in abundance ; in the
other terrapins, frogs and small crocodiles. They
are peculiar in always killing their prey before com-
mencing to devour it. If the caricari meet with a
serpent or young crocodile large enough to oppose a
long resistance, he approaches it sideways, shielded
by one of his wings spread out, and striking his prey
near the head with his bill, retires to a short distance
to watch the result. A second blow is usually fatal,
upon which, seizing his victim in his claws, he tears
it with his bill. The sluggish tortoises and terrapins
are easy prey for the caricari / these he renders help-
less by turning them upon their backs, then with his
powerful bill tears out the entrails.

Singing birds are of great numbers and varieties
in the Llanos ; these are mostly of the oriole species,
all of which seem to delight in the vicinity of man.
They usually select some tree near the house, and
from its slender topmost branches, weave their hang-
ing nests beyond reach of mischievous boys and mon-
keys. One of these songsters, the gonzaH, had his
nest close by the ropes of my hammock, where every
morning before sunrise he awakened me by his sweetly
plaintive notes ; and so fascinated was I by this charm-
ing neighbor, that I always remained long after the
reveille, listening to his delicious music.

There is another closely allied species, far superior
to this or any other bird of the kind with which I am
acquainted. It is the troupial, whose powerful notes
can only be likened to strains of the violin. It is
easily domesticated in houses, and learns readily any

174: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

air from hearing it whistled. I have one of these
birds at home (in New York) which sings the Ca-
chuca, Yankee Doodle, and various other tunes, be-
sides distinctly whistling the name of a person. Its
predominant colors are rich orange and shining black,
with white spots on the wings and bill in beautiful
contrast. It is a dangerous pet, however, if at large
in a house, attacking strangers furiously, and always
aiming at the eyes.

The arrendajo, or mocking-oriole, is perhaps the
most extraordinary of its kind, on account of its imi-
tative proclivities, mimicking every sound with such
exactness, that he goes by the name of mocking-bird
among the colonists of Demerara ; according to
Waterton, " His own song is sweet, but very short.
If a toucan be yelping in the neighborhood, he drops
it, and imitates him. Then he will amuse his pro-
tector with the cries of the different species of wood-
pecker, and when the sheep bleat he will distinctly
answer them. Then comes his own song again ; and
if a puppy dog or a guinea fowl interrupt him, he
takes them off admirably, and by his different ges-
tures during the time, you would conclude that he
enjoys the sport."

The arrendajo is, besides, a beautiful bird, and
considered by ornithologists a model of symmetry ;
his predominant color is a glossy black, with the ex-
ception of his belly, rump and hajf the tail, which
are of a bright yellow. On each wing also he has a
spot of the same color. His beak is tinged of a deli-
cate shade of lemon, while his eyes are sky blue, the
pupil being a deeper shade of the same.

CHAPTER XIIL

THE RODEO.

had long been impatiently awaiting the com-
mand for a general turnout and chase among the
legions of wild cattle grazing in the far horizon ; and
when at length the day was appointed for a rodeo or
grand hunt, the universal gratification was boundless.
It is customary in all large cattle farms to assem-
ble from time to time the cattle of certain districts for
the purpose of selecting those which require branding
and marking, and also to allow the neighboring farm-
ers to separate from the herds many stray animals
belonging to them, which, from the open nature of
the plains, it is impossible to keep within the boun-
daries of their own savannas. This operation cannot
be accomplished without a great number of able and
expert riders, who, on a given day, surround a large
area of country and drive toward one centre all the
cattle that may be found within the selected space.
An extended circle or ring is thus formed, enclosing
a great horde of wild animals ; these are kept in check

176 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

by the well-concerted evolutions of the vaqueros until
the appointed rendezvous is reached, where, after
allowing the cattle to cool down, the different brands
are selected ; hence the name of rodeo, from rodear,
to surround.

The object on this occasion was not only to sepa-
rate all the calves that required branding, but also to
collect a large drove of oxen, so as to furnish our ex-
tensive potreros of San Pablo de Paya with market-
able beeves.

Our first foray against the horned tenants of the
wilderness would thus assume an importance seldom
witnessed in that retired corner of the republic ; as
also in addition to our own force, we counted upon
the assistance of the vaqueros from the neighboring
cattle farms of Caucagua, La Yagua, and others bor-
dering these savannas. Due notice was accordingly
sent to the respective owners of those estates to mus-
ter on a certain day all their forces upon the field.

The area selected for the hunt embraced at least
fifteen miles a la ronde. The hunters, in squads of
six or eight, proceeded on the afternoon of the day
before the hunt to their stations at various points of
the savanna, having instructions to start at early
dawn for the appointed centre. We of the staff made
a simultaneous move from the house, driving before
us, without distinction, all the animals we encoun-
tered on the route. The cattle being so unexpectedly
roused from their slumbers, naturally endeavored to
fly from their pursuers. Soon, however, meeting
those from opposite directions, they whirled in mad
despair, vainly endeavoring to break through the ex-

THE RODEO. 177

tended line of horsemen, who were constantly gallop-
ing about the struggling mass with shouts and thrusts
from their steel-pointed garrochas.

At the commencement it was a truly interesting
sight to watch the many groups of cattle, deer, wild
boars, dogs, foxes, and other wild quadrupeds coming
in from all directions as if impelled by one 'common
instinct ; but no sooner did that living ring commence
closing upon them, than, scared by the confusion and
uproar of the scene, their terror quickly grew to
frenzy, and they ran from side to side bellowing,
grunting, howling as they went. Solely intent upon
the danger that menaced them, the mother forgot her
offspring, and listened no more to their painful lamen-
tations ; the lover abandoned his beloved, seeking
only his own safety in disgraceful flight ; and even the
fierce bull, forgetting for a moment that he is sover-
eign of those realms, lost his natural spirit of brave
defiance, and rushed blindly off in the train of the
frightened multitude. As if to increase the grandeur
of the spectacle, a garzero, which had established
itself on the borders of a creek hard by, also caught
the alarm, and at our approach flew up in the air
with a tremendous crashing of wing and bill, leaving
their young to care for themselves, and with their
discordant and piercing cries to swell the uproar of
the scene. It is impossible to convey an adequate
idea of this vast multitude of frightened cranes and
herons of all sorts which fluttered overhead at that
moment ; so great was their number that they spread
over an extent of several miles, and actually for a
time cast a deep shadow over the landscape.

8*

178 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

"Not less than eight or ten thousand head of cattle
were brought within the ring formed of more than a
hundred horsemen, who, in preventing the escape of
the animals, were compelled to expose themselves and
their noble steeds to the vindictiveness of the bulls,
which were constantly rushing upon the lines in their
endeavors to regain the open prairie. Whenever this
was attempted, a horseman galloped boldly upon the
fugitive, and by interposing himself between the open
field and the bull, forced the latter back to the herd.
Wonderfully adroit were the herdsmen in their avoid-
ance of the repeated strokes aimed at them by the
bulls, even when it appeared impossible to escape
being caught between the animal's horns. The gar-
rocha played an important part in repelling these at-
tacks. This instrument, only second in importance
to the lazo when in the hands of expert riders, is
made of the slender, yet tough stem, of the alvarico
palm, (aenocarpus cubarro,) by merely sharpening the
top end to a point, or surmounting it with an iron
head, around which a number of loose rings of the
same metal are affixed ; these, when shaken close
to the animal's ear, frighten him off with the rattling
sound they produce. The shaft of the goad is fully
ten feet long, and although not thicker than a walk-
ing-stick, can bear an immense amount of pressure
without breaking. As a weapon of aggression, this
slender palm stem has become justly celebrated
throughout the country, from the fact of having sup-
plied the primitive bands of patriots who first dared
to oppose the tyrannical rule of Spain with ready-
made lances in the wilderness. The manner in which

THE RODEO.

Llaneros make use of the garrocha is quite extra-
ordinary. When in pursuit of a bull which they pur-
pose turning back to the rodeo, if the animal be
swifter than the horse, the rider always manages to
reach him wTith the point of his spear. This he
thrusts into the bull's hide, just above the shoulder-
blade, and then leans forward and rests the whole
weight of his body upon the shaft, assisted in it by
his intelligent charger. The equilibrium of the bull
is thus usually destroyed, and he rolls headlong upon
the ground. These falls are often sufficient to pre-
vent further attempts at escape, in which case the
bull is easily led into the rodeo. This performance,
however, is one of the most dangerous practised
among Llaneros, and is undertaken only by the most
skilful and experienced riders, as, should the spear
glance off while the hunter is leaning upon it, or
should he happen to overturn the bull in front of his
horse, he will in either case receive a terrific fall, and
in the latter event, probably come into collision with
the fallen animal.

From the midst, and above all the heads of that
tumultuous assemblage of wild animals,** rose the
shaggy frontlet of a black bull, whose martial air and
fearless step seemed to proclaim him the patriarch of
the herd. An experienced Llanero, intently watching
all his movements from afar, observed to those near
him, that they would soon have fresh sport ; and that
" if any one prized the skin of his horse, he would do
well to look to his spurs ; " meaning that the black
bull evidently intended mischief. Mr. Thomas, who
was busily sketching the novel scene before him, un-

.
180 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

accustomed to the jargon of the Llanos, did not un-
derstand this remark, and therefore quietly continued
his occupation. The next moment the bull was in
our midst, charging first upon Captain Yalor, one of
the best riders on the field, who, in spite of his name,
hastily spurred his steed out of reach ; but the bull
still pursuing, charged again and again upon him,
and doubtless the last attempt would have been fatal
to either horse or cavalier, had not the bull been
checked in his final onset by accidentally plunging
one of his legs into the hole of an armadillo, which
fortunate circumstance gave the captain time to dis-
tance his pursuer. The bull next sought to vent his
rage on the incautious artist, who, one leg crossed
over the neck of his horse as support for his sketch-
book, sat evidently absorbed in contemplation of the
powerful and daring brute, with whose ferocious
nature he was totally unacquainted. Having never
before attended sports of the kind, my friend paid
little regard to the menacing attitude of the animal,
who rushed upon him with a fearful bellow that made
us tremble for his fate. But for some unaccountable
reason, the bull after one or two ineffectual attempts
to strike his intended victim, wheeled about and dis-
appeared among the tangled jungle bordering the
creek, apparently indignant at the nonchalance with
which John Bull received the advances of his name-
sake. Fearing the recurrence of similar attacks,
which might have a less fortunate termination, it was
decided to disembarrass ourselves of so uncomfort-
able a neighbor ; with this object, the requisite number
of horsemen provided with lazos were sent to capture

THE RODEO.

181

and subdue him. Instead of seeking safety in precip-
itate flight, as is generally the case with wild bulls,
this one unflinchingly stood his ground, and neither
shouts nor menaces could induce him to abandon the
threatening attitude he had assumed. It was indeed
a splendid sight to behold that proud monarch of the
horned tribe bidding defiance to all about him, his
huge and shaggy head, surmounted by a pair of
pointed, powerful horns, high in air, and with an ex-
pression of countenance that was almost diabolical.
His savage upper lip looked as if curled in contempt
of his antagonists, and his eyes gleamed with fury in
the light of the morning sun. Occasionally with his
fore feet he ploughed up the earth, which, falling in
showers upon him, he swept from his sides with his
tail, uttering all the while a sort of suppressed roar
resembling distant thunder. Then came the furious
charge, when every one was compelled to run for his
life, as nothing could arrest his headlong course.
Blinded with rage, he spared not even those of his
own species, killing two heifers instantly, and wound-
ing a bull so severely that he died shortly after-
ward. Each time the men whirled the lazo to
throw it over his head, he dashed forward with such
rapidity as to disconcert their aim, until, finally, a
bold and agile sambo, Sarmiento by name, who acted
as caporal, and of whom we shall say more hereafter,
dismounting from his horse and seizing the red blan-
ket from his saddle, prepared to face the bull without
the encumbrance of the lazo. His intention was to
bewilder or torear him by a succession of such feats
of agility as are usually practised by matadors in bull

182 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

fights ; and so successful was he, that in one of the
animal's furious charges, he succeeded in grasping
and holding his tail ; and in spite of the efforts tbe
bull made to strike him with his horns, Sarmiento
followed his movements so closely, that by a dexter-
ous twist of the tail he succeeded in overthrowing the
brute upon his side ; he then drew the tail between
the hind legs, and as this completely deprives the
animal of all power of rising, he was enabled to hold
him until others came to his assistance. Then, to
prevent further mischief, the men proceeded to saw
off the tops of his horns and to perform upon him
other usual operations. These precautions, however,
proved quite unnecessary, as the bull, exhausted by
rage and loss of blood, shortly afterward dropped
upon the ground and expired.

In spite of the vigilance and constant efforts of the
men to keep the animals within the rodeo, several
other bulls managed to break through the ranks. The
only method of bringing them back was by using
the all-potent lazo, and two men, one of them thus
equipped, were despatched after the fugitive, which
on being noosed, was by the second man speedily
thrown upon his side by means of that dangerous ap-
pendage, the tail, in the management of which the
Llaneros of Venezuela are so famous. This accom-
plished, they pierced the thick cartilage which divides
the nostrils with the point of a dagger ; one end of
the thong was then passed through the wound, while
the other remained fastened to the horse's tail ; the
Llanero, then mounting his steed, jerked the end at-
tached to the bull, which brought the prostrate beast

THE RODEO.

at once to his feet, when he was marched off to his
destination without further trouble, literally led by
the nose.

Another method of arresting a bull in his flight,
is by a bold manoeuvre termed colear, and which con-
sists, as already stated, in availing themselves of the
animal's tail to overthrow him when at full speed ;
but that is not easy of accomplishment, as the bull
has then such entire freedom of movement. The
horse also must be perfectly well trained to these
hazardous undertakings, and should obey instantly
the slightest pull of the bit ; for if the bull turns sud-
denly upon his pursuer, the chances are ten to one
that the horse will be severely wounded. The rider
first gallops close to the rear of the bull, and seizing
his tail with one hand, gives it a turn or two around
his wrist to prevent its slipping. When thus pre-
pared, he urges his horse forward, until the heads of
the two animals are on a " dead-heat ; " then quickly
turning in an oblique direction, and exerting all his
strength, he pulls the bull toward him, and does not
relinquish his hold until he perceives that the enemy
is tottering, when he is easily overthrown from the
great impetus imparted by their rapid pace. Some
men are so dexterous that they can colear with both
hands at the same time ; which necessarily gives greater
power over the bull, enabling the rider to bring him
down much more readily. The horse, in this case,
left to his own well-taught guidance, assists the man-
oeuvres of his rider, pushing forward at the instant he
perceives that his master is prepared for the pull, and
turning about also at the right moment. How won-

184 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

derful the instinct of these noble creatures ! that
teaches them so readily the importance of the slight-
est movement, on which often depends, not only the
success of the enterprise, but their own safety, as
well as that of their masters. If too powerful resist-
ance is offered at the outset by the bull, as is some-
times the case, the rider still clings to the tail of his
adversary, anjl throwing himself off his horse while
at full speed, the impetus combined with his weight
and strength never fail in bringing the bull like a
fallen giant to the ground ; then the man quickly
drawing the tail between the hind legs, awaits the
arrival of his companions to assist in securing the
prize.

It was often matter of surprise to me in what
manner the Llaneros, notwithstanding the thorough
training of the horses, contrived their speedy ap-
proach to the rear of the bulls, as these were usually
considerably ahead at the start. On one occasion, I
was regretting that my pony was too small to keep
pace with the hunters, when one of the men, who was
mounted on a prototype of Rosinante — on which,
nevertheless, he had performed prodigies of strength
— turned to me and said, " Vaya, nino, let me show
you that this is not the fault of the horse, but that of
the rider ;" whereupon we exchanged horses, and off
he went after a powerful bull just escaped. Not
many minutes elapsed before I lost sight of horse and
rider in a cloud of dust raised by the beast in its fall.

Some hours elapsed before the tremendous excite-
ment and confusion of the wild melee described above
had sufficiently subsided to render the forms of men

THE RODEO.

185

and cattle visible through the clouds of dust and ashes
raised by the trampling of so many animals. The
grass, at this period parched by the sun and reduced
to ashes in various places by the usual conflagrations,
mingled with the dust and rose in dense columns,
which from afar might have been mistaken for the
dreaded monsoon.

In the mean while the distracted mothers ran from
side to side, lowing piteously for their missing
young. Here and there fierce duellos among rival
bulls took place for the possession of some shaggy one
of the softer sex. Butting their huge fronts together,
and goring each other with their sharp-pointed horns,
they fought with the courage and skill of accomplished
gladiators, tearing up the earth in wild fury, and fill-
ing the air with their deep, savage bello wings. A
crowd of admirers from amidst the herd formed a
circle around the combatants, and if any from among
their number evinced the least disposition to interfere,
he was immediately chased away by the others, so
that there might be fair play while the fight lasted.'
Often these encounters proved fatal to one of the bel-
ligerents, as neither will yield the palm without a
desperate resistance.

The bellowing of thousands of animals, with the
yells and deafening shouts of the men galloping
about the plain, waving their ponchos and rattling
their garrochas, combined to give the scene more the
appearance of a fiendish melodrama, than a purely
pastoral assemblage of men and cattle.

The confusion having at length subsided, four
of the ablest horsemen, penetrating the living mass,

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

winch, as they advanced, surged on either side like
the waves of the sea, commenced the difficult task of
separating the animals intended for the brand, and
those belonging to our neighbors. This occasioned
another series of evolutions, which only men trained
to such exercises could have accomplished success-
fully.

It is usual in all cattle-farms to cut a notch or two
in the animal's ear at the time they are branded, for
the purpose of recognizing them more readily from a
distance, a precaution which is particularly serviceable
on occasions like that just described, it being impossi-
ble to read the brand when the creatures are crowded
into a herd. Although most of the calves had not
the notch, they belong by right to the owner of the
mother, even if they are found on the lands of another
party. Of it the vaqueros availed themselves in
their subsequent apportioning of the different lots of
cattle. This they accomplished in the most expedi-
tious manner by riding boldly at the animals in ques-
tion, hastening or checking their progress through the
herd as the case required. Thus by repeated evolu-
tions of the sort, they finally brought the animals to
the edge of the ring, where an opening was purposely
left for their escape, and then the nearest horseman
drove them in among a small body of tame cattle sta-
tioned a short distance from the rodeo. These violent
manceuvrings could not be accomplished, however,
without endangering at every step the security of the
'entire herd. Each time the drivers turned out an
animal the whole mass was thrown into the utmost
confusion, and it required the most consummate skill

THE KODEO.

187

on the part of the men to prevent the entire disper-
sion of the cattle. The fearlessness with which the
drivers plunged into that labyrinth of savage, panting
brutes, advancing close upon the wall of bristling
horns which barred their progress, and boldly driving
the infuriated creatures before them like a pack of
sheep, was truly worthy of admiration. The readiness
with which they detected at a distance the mark on the
animal's ears was also no less noticeable, singling out
such at a glance, and immediately driving them away
to their respective groups. When all the brands had
thus been apportioned, each owner proceeded to drive
away his own herd. "We found in these cases — as in-
deed in all similar ones — the assistance of madrineros
or trained oxen, of great service in driving a large
body of cattle across the plains. A dozen of these
oxen were sufficient to lead a vast drove, stopping or
advancing at a signal from the overseer, while the
vaqueros kept close watch on rear and flank to pre-
vent escape and to urge on the cattle, especially the
crowd of stray calves — some of them only a few hours
old — which, like a procession of lost children, kept up
a continual bewailing for their mothers as if the last
ray of hope had departed from them. Although
their case was indeed a hard one, and the task of driv-
ing them over the rough ground still harder, we were
unwilling to leave them behind, hoping to find their
mammas among the multitude before us. When within
a short distance from the house, we halted to make
preparations for the enclosure of the herds. But one
of the most dangerous parts of the proceedings yet re-
mained, that of forcing the cattle into the corrals.

188 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

The entrance to the majada — shaped like a great
funnel — was, like the rest of the fences, made of very
strong posts, driven into the ground and barred across
at intervals with thick rafters of bamboo. Through
this funnel, or manga, the cattle in small lots were
driven at full speed headed by the madrineros — those
treacherous guides trained to ensnare their kindred —
while the horsemen barricaded the mouth of the fun-
nel with the breasts of the poor horses. Every thing
proceeded satisfactorily as far as the end of the funnel,
the madrineros, with all the cunning of semi-civilized
bi'utes, redoubling their pace at the moment of enter-
ing the great enclosure. Then their wild brethren,
perceiving the treachery, turned upon their captors,
and a most fearful struggle ensued. The bulls, in
spite of the deafening shouts of the men, and the for-
midable array of garrochas levelled at their heads, en-
deavored to force their way back to the open plain,
and many of them actually succeeded in breaking
through the barricade of horses. Thus many noble
steeds, which until then had escaped unhurt, met with
an inglorious death. That most of the men escaped
unhurt, appeared little less than miraculous, as not
only were they also exposed at every moment to the
vindictive attacks of the bulls, but it often happened
that some of them were unhorsed, when they were in
imminent danger of being trampled by the retreating
foe. The superior skill and intrepidity of man, how-
ever, triumphed at length over mere brute resistance,
and the whole herd was in a short time securely quar-
tered in the majada.

CHAPTER XIV.

BRANDING SCENES.

" Entre tanto en ancha hoguera
Corao encendido tizon,
Ya la marca centellea
Con chispas de azul punzo."

VENTURA DE LA VEGA.

IT was late in the evening when we partook of our
only meal that day, and we afterward retired to rest,
but not to sleep, owing to the incessant noise made
by the cattle in the corrals, who, during the whole
night, were rushing to and fro as if goaded by demons.
Sometimes we feared that the fences would give way
before their mad onset, while the dust rose in suffo-
cating clouds, filling the atmosphere and mingling
with our food, which was thus rendered almost unfit
for use. The bellowing, roaring, and moaning of the
herd could only be likened to the wild confusion of a
battle-field. Many of the savage bulls in their fury
turned their horns, sharp as bayonets, against their
own kindred. The proud padrote, his dusky mate,
and the tender heifer shared alike in the slaughter.
The next day numbers lay gored to death in the dust

190 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of the corrals, while others presented ghastly wounds.
Soon the carcasses began to putrefy, which, added to
the particles of dust floating through the air we
breathed, rendered the atmosphere intolerable. Many
more of the cattle died of suffocation, and others from
an infectious disease induced by the crowded state of
the herd and the noxious exhalations from the car-
casses. We therefore lost no time in branding them
that they might be set free, lest the infection should
extend to the whole herd.

Animals affected in this manner exhibit no symp-
toms of the disease until immediately prior to their
demise, when they are observed to stagger a few
paces and drop suddenly, as if shot by a rifle ball ;
and yet the vultures seem to possess an intuitive
knowledge of this approaching dissolution, in proof
whereof, numbers of these feathery satellites of death
can be seen hovering around an animal which the
scourge has doomed, although it is apparently still in
perfect health. The infection, fortunately, is confined
to the horned cattle, no instance of its transmission to
other creatures occurring, except in the case of men
venturing to skin the carcasses, when it assumes a dif-
ferent form. Persons who have thus exposed them-
selves are seized with a horrible swelling of the neck,
commencing with a pimple not larger than a pin's
head, and gradually increasing in size until it extends
to the cerebellum. Death is the inevitable result if the
patient is not promptly attended by a skilful physi-
cian. There were two or three cases of the kind
among our own people, but by careful treatment we
were fortunate enough to save them. There are, how-

BRANDING SCENES.

ever, every year many poor fellows in that improvi-
dent region, who, not having the same advantages, are
often carried away by the distemper.

The branding of cattle, as conducted in extensive
establishments, is a real festival for the sport-loving
people of the Llanos ; and each one feels himself as
deeply interested therein as though assisting at a
grand bull fight — the time-honored amusement of the
descendants of Pel ay o, the Cid, and other worthies of
like celebrity ; and indeed the former, or hierra, as
that wild pageant is termed, with all its incidents and
dangers, all its noise and bustle, is perhaps the grand-
est spectacle of the kind that could be devised for the
entertainment and training of that chivalric race.
It is undoubtedly one of the wildest scenes ever be-
held in the pampas, and one which afforded me ex-
ceeding pleasure from the variety of incident accom-
panying^ it. The majada is, in fact, the school in
which from infancy the Llanero is trained to couquer
or to die in daily struggles with the brute creation.
It is a veritable Olympic Circus, where the agility
and strength for which he is famed are displayed
during the exciting operations performed upon the
savage denizens of the savannas, branding and mark-
ing the calves, sawing off the horns of furious bulls
and converting them into oxen for the improvement
of their flesh and disposition.

On the day appointed, all animals confined in the
majada are driven into the corralejas or smaller cor-
rals adjoining the great enclosure, arid there packed
as closely as possible to prevent the bulls, always
ready to strike, from doing much mischief among

192 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

their own kindred. Meantime the men prepare
their lazos and station themselves according to their
respective strength and ability, while the boys kindle
a blazing fire in a safe corner of the majada, in which
the various brands to be used are kept at a red heat.
These brands generally represent the initials of the
owner, or some sort of hieroglyphic stamp affixed to
the end of a long handle. A record of these is kept
by the Justice of the Peace in each district ; and it is
considered a great crime to alter or in any unauthor-
ized manner efface their impression from the skin of
animals. The cattle are usually branded on the
haunches ; but whenever a horse, mule, or mare is
sold, the brand in a reversed position is again affixed,
this time on its shoulder, followed by the buyer's
brand, the same operation being repeated whenever
the animal changes hands, so that some poor beasts
come at last to be quite disfigured with deep scars.

"When all is ready for the fray, the majordomo,
climbing to the highest post of the enclosure, from
whence he directs operations, gives the signal. Here
he keeps an account of the calves branded, by notch-
ing a long strip of raw hide. A number of these
strips, called tarja or tally, are carefully preserved in
every cattle farm as a record to be laid before the
owner at the year's end in lieu of balance-sheet.

The principal business of the day being that of
branding the calves collected at the rodeo, two or
three men armed with lazos, fearlessly enter the
pens at peril of life and limb — for the mothers are
ever ready to defend their young — and proceed to
drag the calves out singly by means of the lazo,

BRANDING SCENES. 193

though not without many obstinate struggles on their
part, and the more formidable resistance of their par-
ents, which are kept back at the point of the gar-
Tocha by men stationed on the fences. The contest,
however, is not of very long duration ; the calf nearly
choked by the lazo, arid tormented by a cruel twisting
of his tail, springs forward toward the branding
place. The moment he passes the threshold, one or
two little imps pounce upon the tail, jerking it until
they succeed in throwing him down ; the lazo is then
quickly removed, and the captor hurries back to the
pen for another calf. When a number have been
thus secured, a man goes round with the brand, and
in a very short time the whole lot are . stamped
with the burning seal of the estate amidst the pit-
eous bellowings and ineffectual kicks of the helpless
creatures.

These operations, although performed on young
animals, are not so easily accomplished as might be
supposed ; it being not unusual for full-grown ones to
spring over the fences, or force their way through the
narrow gate of their pen. At such times, the opera^
tors outside are in imminent danger of being assailed
by the fugitives, if the latter are not promptly se-
cured by men stationed for the purpose at the gate of
the corralejas. It becomes a much more serious busi-
ness when a powerful bull is lazoed. He not only re-
fuses obstinately to be dragged out like a calf, but re-
quires the combined force and skill of all the men to
compel him from the pen, although the gate is pur-
posely left wide open. In such cases a picador,
climbing to the top of the fence, endeavors to drive

194 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

out the animal by repeated thrusts of the goad ; that
also failing, another lets himself down close to the
bull's tail, which he twists violently, and this seldom
fails to drive the refractory creature madly out, fol-
lowed by the shouts and huzzas of his cruel torment-
ors. The next proceeding is to throw him for the
purpose of regaining the lazo, and for the performance
of the above-mentioned operations. This, however, is
no easy matter, from the frantic plunges of the bull,
who has the entire range of the lazo. The only cer-
tain method is that of dragging him close upon a
post — lotalon — driven into the ground, where his over-
throw is finally accomplished by the united efforts of
several men, one grappling his hind legs, another
seizing the tail, while two others keep a steady hold
of the thong, until the animal, at last exhausted, drops
heavily to the ground.

To justly appreciate scenes like these, one must
himself behold the dusky athlete battling single-
handed with a bull just escaping from the corral.
Seizing him by a horn with one hand, the Llanero
still holding it watches his opportunity until he can
grasp with the other the animal's tail. The bull is
then allowed to run as fast as he will, as the greater
his speed the more easily his downfall is accomplished.
If the bull moves too slowly, a few impressive jerks
generally accelerate his speed ; but occasionally he
returns the compliment by turning fiercely upon his
tail-bearer, who, if not very nimble, risks being gored
to death ; yet his skilful antagonist, not only usually
succeeds in evading his attack, but speedily contrives
to throw him. No sooner does this occur, than the

BRANDING SCENES. 195

vanquished one is surrounded by a host of meny yell-
ing vagabonds, one brandishing a huge knife, which
he sharpens on the horns previous to performing the
operation which transforms the animal into an ox,
and if not previously marked, cuts his ear according
to the rule of the estate whose property he is ; another
holds a red-hot brand, which he implants at once
upon the quivering hide ; while a third with a small
hand-saw cuts off the sharp points of the horns. The
whole operation scarcely occupies three minutes' time ;
but notwithstanding this, the danger is very great if
the bull succeed in regaining his feet before it is fin-
ished, as, instead of being subdued, no sooner is he
free, than he turns upon his assailants in renewed
fury, and then those valiant heroes may be seen scat-
tering about the arena like a flock of partridges.
With nostrils widely distended, and foaming at the
mouth, the bull for an instant stands an embodiment
of rage and terror, endeavoring to discover the objects
of his vengeance. None, however, are presumptuous
enough to await his onset ; they would be levelled
with the dust in an instant, and his conquerors there-
fore adopt the wiser policy of a speedy retreat to the
highest fence, whence they pour a volley of abuse
upon his shaggy head.

Occasionally, while the men were engaged with
one bull, several others effected their escape in spite
of the men whose business it was to prevent it. The
situation of the others then became critical in the ex-
treme, being exposed to the attacks of the fugitives
on the one hand, and to those of the prisoner on the
other ; this last they were often compelled to abandon

196 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

in the midst of their labors. Those who held younger
animals formed with their bodies a sort of barricade
with which to fend off the aggressor, when no other
expedient could be resorted to. At times it appeared
almost impossible to escape the impetuous charge of
the bulls, especially when the men were some distance
from the fences ; the only remaining means of safety
then consisted in throwing themselves flat upon the
ground at the moment the bull aimed a stroke, as in
that case the animal invariably jumped over their
bodies. It is asserted that bulls in charging always
close their eyes, thus missing in blind precipitancy
many excellent opportunities for avenging the out-
rages perpetrated on their race. Not so the -cows,
who are said to keep their eyes fully open when they
are bent on mischief, seldom if ever turning from their
intended victim without leaving some mark, of either
horn or hoof, in token of displeasure.

On one occasion our leader himself very narrowly
escaped from one of these infuriate feminalities in
spite of his ability in dealing with wild cattle, and his
dexterity in avoiding their attacks. "We had just en-
tered the majada, and were making preparations for
the coming frolic. We stood under the shade of a
splendid matapalo or wild fig-tree growing within
the great enclosure, when a cow, which had left her
young behind while chased in the savanna, feeling
rather uneasy in consequence, cleared the fence of the
pen wherein she was confined, and the next moment
was among us. All retreated to the fences, excepting
our leader, who, ever rather sensitive about turning
his back upon an enemy, stood his ground somewhat

BRANDING SCENES. 19 Y

protected by the stout body of the tree. The cow at
first appeared to pay but little attention to him, mak-
ing straight for the gate of the majada, which she,
unfortunately, found strongly barred against her
escape. Then retracing her steps, she sought to
avenge her evident disappointment upon the gentle-
man in white, whom she very well recollected having
left at the foot of the old matapalo. Still the un-
daunted soldier, although repeatedly urged by his
men to fly, scorned the idea of seeking the talan-
guera, or, in other words, climbing the fence in a
hurry, thinking at first to avoid the enemy by step-
ping round and round the tree ; but the cow was too
cunning to be cheated in this manner. After thus
chasing him in vain for a few minutes, she suddenly
changed her course, seeking him in the opposite di-
rection, which brought them face to face. Unfortu-
nately, the General, who had that morning been sitting
for his likeness in the full costume of the Llanos which
he still wore, found himself rather embarrassed in his
movements by the wide folds of the mania. This
prevented him from drawing the sword he had re-
tained, which was his first impulse ; and he therefore
retreated a few paces into a more open space where
he could torear her until others came to his assistance.
"With the subtlety of her sex the cow at once perceived
his intentions, and rapidly following his every move-
ment, watched her opportunity to strike him on the
side ; but he, precisely at the right instant, with great
presence of mind threw himself flat upon the ground
just as she aimed the blow. Instead, however, of jump-
ing over him, as is usual with bulls in similar cases, the

198 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

cow rushed upon him, when his adroitness in grasping
one of her fore feet so firmly as to arrest further at-
tack until others came to his relief, prevented any in-
jury beyond a slight scratch on his side and tearing
his mania.

It is needless to add that after so disrespectful an
assault upon the revered person of our leader, the
cow received no gentle treatment at the hands of the
indignant vaqueros : some were for despatching her
at once for their evening meal ; others, for affixing a
dry hide to the end of her tail and letting her loose
over the plain ; while a few, compassionating her ig-
norance, among them the aggrieved owner, were
only for depriving her of the means of doing further
mischief with the horns. This opinion prevailing at
last over all others, the ruthless hand of the execu-
tioner at once applied the saw to the pride of her
head, after which she was allowed to depart in peace.
Thus ended a short, but not altogether inglorious
struggle, which, but for the cunning and address dis-
played on both sides, might have terminated fatally
to either of the parties engaged in it.

After the corrdlejas had been emptied of their
contents, there still remained in the majada several
bulls at large, which had escaped during the confu-
sion ; and many of these not yet having been oper-
ated upon, another most exciting chase was afforded
to the indefatigable and athletic hunters. The nar-
rowness of the field, however, which precluded the
use of horses, and the fact that each bull required to
be captured with the lazo, occasioned serious obsta^

BRANDING SCENES. 199

cles and much risk to the men engaged therein. Lack
of volunteers there was none, and among them a pow-
erful red-haired zambo, which freak of nature had ob-
tained for him the sobriquet of Colorado — the red man.
This fellow enjoyed a wide reputation in the
country for his exploits, both in field and corral, and
on this occasion proved himself deserving of the fame
which he had heretofore achieved. It was he who
now first led the charge. Seizing a lazo of long di-
mensions, contrary to usual practice, he proceeded to
coil it on his right hand, securing the end upon his
left. Then, cautiously approaching a formidable
black bull, which stood alone in the centre of the
tTbajada, ho sent the whole lazo, noose and all, uncoil-
ing like a snake through the air until it reached the
animal's head. Although the distance must have
been thirty paces, we had the satisfaction of seeing
the noose settle round his neck as truly as if placed
there by the practised hand of a hangman. From
this moment, Colorado was unanimously proclaimed
master of the lazo, an honor which he enjoyed to the
end of the performances, as all that remained in this
case to be accomplished by the others was merely to
pull the lazo in order to bring the bull up to the
botalon or upright post, which served the double
purpose of subduing stake for the bulls, and training
post for the boys. To it one or more young bulls
were usually brought at the end of the day's work,
and the boys compelled to mount them in the manner
described in a previous chapter ; the animals are then
set loose amidst the crowd of assembled quadrupeds,
which are evidently amazed at the singular spectacle.

200 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

witnessed several exhibitions of the kind in
the majada, whenever we were present at the brand-
ing of the cattle ; but never do I recollect any serious
accident occurring to the little riders. Thus it is that
the Llaneros educate their boys from infancy to the
severest exercises of their profession, so that they in
turn may teach the same to their own children.

Not always, however, is the Llanero's triumph
over the brute creation obtained so easily, for many
are the instances in which the latter gain the advan-
tage in these hand-to-horn combats, and in such cases
the evil resulting is very great. Sometimes the men
are dreadfully lacerated, either by the horns or the
sharp hoofs of their antagonists, • frequently losing
their lives in consequence, from want of proper medi-
cal treatment at the time the wounds are inflicted.
The most common phase the disease assumes is that
of tetanus or lock-jaw, which sometimes ensues from
only a slight scratch on the tendinous part of the foot.
From the scarcity of surgeons in the country, and the
lack of skill in dressing these wounds, mortification,
aneurisms, malignant abscesses, and a variety of other

BRANDING SCENES. 201

complaints are amongst the evils resulting from this
otherwise entertaining sport. In spite of all our pre-
cautions, and the assistance of the surgeon, Dr. Gal-
legos, we lost three of our best men, and several
others afterward died in consequence of injuries re-
ceived during that expedition.

CHAPTER XV.

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

THE wide extent of the savannas composing this
cattle farm, and the dispersion of the herds through-
out them, compelled us to remove our quarters to a
more central point, from whence we could sally forth
in their pursuit. Orders were issued accordingly for
the men to be in readiness, and the next morning we
quitted with regret our comfortable quarters at the
majordomo's mansion and started for Mata-Gorda,
one of those delightful primeval groves which dot the
prairies here and there.

Some idea of the extent of this huge farm may be
gathered from the fact that one may start at a gallop
early in the morning from one end of the savannas
and not reach the other until late at night of the same
day. Its area would measure at least eighty square
leagues, or about one hundred and fifty thousand acres
of the richest land, but which under the present back-
ward and revolutionary state of the country is com-
paratively valueless to its owner. The number of

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

203

cattle dispersed throughout the length and breadth
of this wide extent of prairie land was computed to
be about a hundred thousand heads, and, at one
time, ten thousand horses ; but what with the peste,
revolutionary exactions, and skin hunters, compara-
tively very few of the former and none of the latter
have been left.

Our first occupation on arriving at the Mata was
to set up a hasty ranch for the protection of our ac-
coutrements and baggage, a structure which required
little labor or expense, the graceful palms affording
the best kind of thatch for the roof, and the surround-
ing woods sufficient posts and rafters for the frame-
work. A convenient apartment was provided in it
for the hammocks of our Leader and worthy Surgeon,
while the rest of us were compelled to seek accommo-
dations among the trunks and branches of the trees.

These arrangements completed, the necessary tim-
ber was next cut for the corrals to be erected for en-
closing the coming herds, a work to which the hunters
devoted themselves, while I found greater attractions
in my daily explorations through the tangled forest.
The beautiful palms there claimed my most particular
attention. Apart from the splendor of their growth
and other peculiarities to which I have already al-
luded in a former chapter, they are sufficient in them-
selves to supply many of the domestic and economic
wants of man in a primitive state.

I also observed here many useful species of the
extensive family of leguminous plants, such as the
canafistula, (Cathartocarpus,) of which there were
several varieties, all of them beautiful timber trees.

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

whose pods, two feet long, were filled with a black
gummy substance possessing very medicinal proper-
ties. In a natural form it affords one of the mildest
and most agreeable cathartics. Belonging to the
same family, the caro, masaguaro, and saman aca-
cias can scarcely be rivalled in durability by any
other production of the vegetable world. Their pods
also contain a large proportion of a similar gummy
substance which cattle devour greedily, and which
fattens them better than any other kind of fodder.

The malagueta pepper, or donkey-bean, (Uvaria
febrifuga^} an excellent febrifuge and antispasmodic,
also grows here in the greatest abundance. Its aro-
matic seeds are carefully preserved in the tobacco
bladder of every Llanero, along with the tubers of the
snake root, (AristolocJiia fiulbosa,) a plant possessing
the same virtues, and withal the best antidote against
the bite of serpents.

Several other medicinal plants, such as the stately
mora, the wild sour-sop, and the mapurite, are also
met with here ; the last owes its name to the pecu-
liar odor, not unlike that of the skunk, which per-
vades the whole plant, rendering it any thing but
acceptable in the neighborhood of an encampment.

Of wild fruits there was also a fine array, and
among them the most delicious of all, in my opinion,
is the manirito, (Anona muricata,) a fruit scarcely
known to horticulture, and still less to the listless in-
habitant of the country where it grows in wild lux-
uriance ; as no one there has yet thought of bringing
it under cultivation. This plant, which belongs to
the same family as do several of the most celebrated

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

205

fruit trees of the tropics — the various kinds of custard
apples and the delicious cherimoyer — attains a height
of ten feet, and at the season of maturity, actually
bends to the ground beneath its sweet load. Unfor-
tunately it all ripens at once, so that in a few days
the whole crop disappears. This fruit, like its con-
gener the sour-sop, is* covered with soft prickles. The
inside, a sweet and highly aromatic pulp, is filled with
small seeds, which, when the fruit is eaten in large
quantities, as is generally the case, are apt to produce
dangerous strictures. The whole plant is exceedingly
fragrant ; and by rubbing the leaves between the
hands, they emit a delightful aroma, not unlike that
of new mown hay.

Another pleasant fruit, that I here met also for
the first time, was the wild madrona, of the size of a
lemon, which it also resembles in shape and color. It
is filled with a most agreeable sub-acid pulp ; this
envelops three or four large nuts, not unlike cacao-
beans, and tastes very much like strawberries. The
tree producing this delicious fruit attains a height of
twenty feet. The foliage is very dense, with coria-
ceous leaves ten inches long, of a brilliant green. A
thick yellow resin, resembling gamboge, exudes from
every part of the tree when wounded ; but whether it
has been found useful for any particular purpose, I
was unable to ascertain.

Somewhat similar to the latter, although growing
upon a plant of an entirely different nature, is the
cacaita, or monkey cacao-bean, a soft and rather in-
sipid fruit, the production of a vine, which monkeys
devour greedily,

206 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

By far the largest proportion of the trees were
several species of guamos (Inga lucida) and others of
the same order of leguminous plants, bearing pods
eight or ten inches long ; these are filled with a row
of black beans, enveloped in a snowy white and sweet-
ish pulp, most agreeable to the taste. The ripening
season of this mild and wholesome fruit was just com-
mencing, and every day we gathered and consumed
quantities of it.

Another pod-bearing tree of great utility proper
to that region is the algarrobo, (Hymenea curbaril,)
the locust tree of the New World, which bears a thick
ligneous pod containing several hard, brown, and
rounded beans. These are surrounded by a sweet fari-
naceous substance, possessing great alimentary prop-
erties. A fragrant resin exudes from the pericarp of
the pods, which, on being burned, yields a perfume
similar to the odor of frankincense combined with
that of balsam of Tolu.

I had almost forgotten to mention, among the
agreeable fruits of these parts, several kinds of wild
guavas, from the tiny Array an, scarcely distinguish-
able among the tufts of grass by which it is sur-
rounded, to the beautiful paujil shrub, bearing in
great profusion quantities of brilliant scarlet, highly
perfumed and acidulous fruits. The berry of the
former exactly resembles Jamaica allspice in shape ;
is quite sweet, and possesses in a high degree the ex-
quisite flavor and aroma of the myrtle tribe, to which
indeed all these plants belong.

Great care was necessary in selecting spits for
roasting the beef, on account of a most poisonous

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 207

shrub, the deadly guachamacd, abounding there. It
belongs to the extensive family of Apocineae or Dog-
banes, whose poisonous qualities are known all over
the world. So virulent is this poison, that meat
roasted on spits made from the guachamaca, absorbs
sufficient poison to destroy all who partake of it. The
lazy Indians make use of it to kill without trouble the
cranes and herons on the borders of lagoons. For
this they procure a number of sardines, besmear them
with the juice of the plant, and spread them along
the places frequented by those birds. The moment
one of them seizes the fish, and before it is fairly swal-
lowed, the bird drops dead ; then the indolent hunter,
issuing from his hiding-place, cuts off the parts affect-
ed by the poison, usually the head and neck, and
feels no scruple in eating the remainder.

A dreadful case of poisoning by means of this
plant had just occurred at Nutrias, soon after our ar-
rival on the Apure, which created for a time great
excitement even amidst that scattered population. A
woman who lived with a man in the vicinity of that
town became jealous of the attentions he bestowed
upon a charming neighbor of theirs, and determined
to avenge herself, but in some manner that would not
excite suspicion. In those remote regions where coro-
ners and chemists are unknown, it is impossible to
detect murder except where marks of external vio-
lence are visible. Accordingly, she prepared for her
lover a bowl of masato, a favorite beverage of the
country, made of Indian corn boiled, mashed in water,
and fermented ; in this she soaked chips of the poison-
ous plant and offered it to him with smiling grace.

208 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Delighted at sight of the tempting bowl, the unsus-
pecting lover invited several of his neighbors — among
them the hated rival — to share it with him. The
woman, not intending to destroy any but her perfid-
ious lover, during his absence prepared another bowl,
omitting this time the poison. Llanero politeness
obliged the host, however, to mix his portion with
the others, which having done, he invited the com-
pany to dip their calabash cups into the bowl. Out
of eleven persons there assembled, among them sev-
eral children, not one escaped except the wicked per-
petrator of this wholesale murder ; nor even the don-
keys and fowl of the household, as their attentive
master had thrown them the remains of the deadly
mixture.

Such is the dread in which the Llaneros hold this
plant, that I was not even permitted to preserve the
specimens of fruit and flowers I had collected, with
the object of ascertaining, on my return to the Yal-
leys, the botanical characters of the species. They
almost threatened to desert, if I insisted upon carry-
ing the leaves among the baggage.

The propagation of this plant throughout the
Apure appears to be of recent origin, none of the
oldest inhabitants recollecting to have met with it
until within comparatively a short period.

The men had no small trouble in clearing our
camp of many noxious reptiles ; and it became our
regular afternoon business to hunt for snakes. We
succeeded in killing a great number in the vicinity of
the ranch, some very poisonous, while others were

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 209

quite harmless ; of the latter class I found two species
of coral snakes, against which an unjust prejudice ex-
ists, that they are among the most poisonous. Of the
former, the matacaballo is the most to be feared. Al-
though scarcely larger than a good -sized earthworm,
his bite is nevertheless almost instantaneously fatal to
man and beast. Unlike his other sluggish and torpid
congeners, this little snake is the more dangerous be-
cause always on the alert. The tramp of a horse,
especially, never fails in rousing them, against which
noble animal they evince an inveterate rancor. I was
once occupied in sketching one of these snakes, which
I had permitted to live for the purpose, and I observed
that whenever a horse approached us, the snake rap-
idly turned his head in the direction of the sound,
seeming as if anxious to strike the animal with his
fangs ; but as I had fortunately taken the precaution
of disabling him by partially breaking his spine, he
could make but little progress toward the object of
his dislike.

The tendinous part between the hoof and ankle-
joint of the horse being nearest the ground, is conse-
quently most exposed to the bite of the matacaballo /
and although, the distance from the ankle to the heart
is very great, it not unfrequently happens that the
animal drops as if touched by the electric spark, from
which fact I infer that this poison acts on the nervous
system as well as on the blood. Horned cattle and
pigs are fortunately shielded by the thickness of their
skin from the fangs of this destroyer, which cannot
penetrate it. Hence this snake has been termed, par
excellence, matacaballo, literally horse-killer.

210 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

It was at one time extremely dangerous to drive
horses across the banks of these savannas where
snakes are ' always most abundant ; their numbers,
however, have been considerably diminished since
the immense multiplication of pigs in those re-
gions.

Horses have there also another dangerous enemy — -
a great hairy spider or species of the tarantula ; this
inflicts a very poisonous and painful sting just above
the hoof, which in time drops off, although it is never
followed by death.

But among all these evil creatures, there is none
so disgusting or so dangerous as the rattlesnake. The
virulence of its poison, and the great size attained by
some, renders them the terror of every man and beast
where they abound. Fortunately for mankind, they
have been provided by an ever-watchful Providence
with what is termed a rattle ; this is composed of a
number of horny rings placed at the end of the tail,

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

which, on being shaken, produce a peculiar sound,
and serve as warning. It is said that Nature every
year adds one of these rings, thus marking the age of
the reptile: From its loathsome body is exhaled a
strong odor, somewhat resembling musk, in itself
sufficient to warn the most careless, as it is per-
ceptible at the distance of a hundred feet. The head
is peculiarly flat and broad, and the eyes sparkle in
the darkness like specks of fire. The mouth is a
ghastly aperture, whence issues a black and forked
tongue, which the reptile moves incessantly when
irritated. Two long fangs, curved inwardly, project
in front of the upper jaw, and through them the
fatal venom is discharged. The poison is secreted
from two glands in the form of small bags at the
root of the fangs, admirably adapted for the pur-
pose, being hollow inside throughout their whole
length, and by their pressure against the glands pro-
duced by the act of biting, the liquid is ejected into
the wound. Fortunately, this snake is the slowest in
its motions, and the most torpid of its kind, otherwise
the mischief done by them would be much greater,
they being very abundant also in the Llanos. Their
favorite haunts are the hollow trunks of decayed trees
and deep fissures in the ground. Occasionally they
are found coiled among thick clumps of grass, which
shelter them from the glaring sun ; but they are
always ready to strike any intruder. At night they
issue forth in quest of game, returning again to their
hiding-places before sunrise.

In addition to the foregoing, there are several
other kinds in the Apure ; among the harmless ones

212

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the sdbanera is very abundant in the savannas, from
which it is named. Some of these are ten feet long,
and occasionally even more. They glide over the
ground with astonishing rapidity, making all varieties
of contortions with their bodies, the forward part of
which they keep all the while raised in a vertical po-
sition. These snakes are very useful, as they destroy
all the poisonous kinds they encounter.

The beautiful coral snake, with alternate rings of
red, black, and white, is occasionally seen in the vicin-
ity of ant-holes. Most persons attribute to it very
poisonous qualities ; but I have examined its mouth
carefully and found there no fangs, nor any of the
characteristics of poisonous snakes.

" B

PLANTS AND SNAKES.

In the same category is placed another inoffensive
reptile, a cecilia, emphatically styled culebra de dos
cdbezas, or two-headed snake — so named on account
of having both ends of its body of equal thickness,
while the eyes are almost invisible. It seems the con-
necting link between snakes and earthworms, partak-
ing of the nature of both, is about a foot long, and
rather disproportionately thick for its length, while
its body is covered with minute scales. As this snake
has the power of moving backward or forward with
equal facility, it is supposed by many to be actually
possessed of two heads. There is abundant nourish-
ment for it in the ant nests which it frequents, but it
feeds also on earthworms, and the larvae of insects,
pursuing them with unrelenting perseverance through
the ground. The double motion of this reptile, its
great muscular powers and flexibility enable it to
penetrate the deepest recesses of a colony of ants, and
to pierce the earth with wonderful expedition in
search of prey.

ANTIDOTES.

Several antidotes are recommended for the venom-
ous bite of snakes ; some of them possess real alexi-
pharmic virtues, as the raiz de mate, to which I
have already alluded under the name of Aristolochia
bulbosa, and the guaco, (Mikania Guaco,) a compo-
site plant which the learned Mutis has rendered so
celebrated through the instrumentality of Humboldt ;
the others, however, are nothing more than supersti-
tious imaginings, which see in thev tooth of a crocodile
extracted on Good Friday, or in some unmeaning

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

orison whispered in the sufferer's ear, greater powers
than in all the resources of medical science. Yet
such is the leaning of the benighted children of Na-
ture in these regions toward the supernatural, that
they always give the preference to whatever savors
most of the miraculous. Somewhat of this has doubt-
less arisen from the mistaken idea that all snakes are
poisonous. Thus if it so happen that the incantation
is whispered over a person who recovers, having been
bitten by a harmless snake, his cure is of course at-
tributed to magic, which is accordingly proclaimed a
sovereign remedy for all similar cases in future. Saint
Paul, as I have already mentioned, possesses not only
the power of arresting the fatal spring of a snake, if
invoked in time, but can also neutralize the poison,
even when it is circulating through the veins. Not-
withstanding my want of faith in the intervention of
the saint in question, I confess myself to have been
on an occasion extremely puzzled by one of these
cherished superstitions, the famous Oration de San
Pablo, and up to this period have not been able to
account for it in a manner satisfactory to my common
sense. As we were one afternoon driving home a
herd of cattle, the majordomo's horse was bitten by a
matacaibalio, when at a short distance from the ranch.
The rider observed his sudden start, and at once men-
tioned the cause thereof. The ground, overgrown
with grass, was diligently searched, and the snake dis-
covered and killed on the very spot pointed out by
the majordomo, who in the mean time had hastened
forward with his horse to the ranch, knowing that the
strength of the poor animal would soon give way.

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 215

Scarcely had lie alighted when his horse, covered with
a cold sweat, dropped to the ground. A curandero
or snake doctor immediately presented himself and
commenced a series of incantations over the prostrate
animal, which it was supposed would soon counter-
act the poison. I was anxious to administer spirits
of hartshorn, a well-authenticated remedy for such
cases, but the Llaneros opposed this resolutely, on the
ground that it would interfere with their own. The
Oraclon was accordingly whispered in the horse's ear
and the patient then removed to a convenient pasture,
where he could find abundant feed if fate ever restored
his appetite. Here he was left, rolling upon the
ground arid moaning piteously, while I was positively
assured by the men that in the course of two hours, at
most, he would, be completely restored, and my scep-
ticism confounded. Singularly enough, the remedy
acted in this case like a real charm ; at the appointed
time the horse started to his feet and commenced
browsing the grass around him with as much gusto
as if he had experienced no ailment whatsoever.
Whether the venom of the snake was not, in this in-
stance, strong enough to kill the horse ; or, what is
more probable, the reptile's fang might not have pen-
etrated deep enough, are questions which cannot be
decided, but shortly afterward the same horse, a
beautiful but wild and vicious young stallion, came
very near kicking to death the curandero who restored
him to health.

The Llaneros are not, however, the only people in
the country who have faith in these miraculous cures.
It is more or less entertained throughout the country

216 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

by persons more enlightened in other respects than
they. It is asserted of a famous curandero in the
Yalleys of Aragua, that in extreme cases, if prevented
from going in person to the patient, it was only neces-
sary to send his hat ! By placing this talisman on
the injured man's head, it would not only afford im-
mediate relief, but arrest the progress of the venom
until the owner could come himself to perfect the
cure.

Another singular practice obtains among Llaneros ;
it is that of inoculation with the juice of certain plants
possessing alexipharmic virtues, after which the most
poisonous snakes may be handled with impunity. It
is asserted, moreover, that cerrados — as individuals
thus inoculated are termed — are not only proof against
the bite of these reptiles, but can attract them around
their persons by merely clapping 'of hands or whis-
tling for them in fields where they abound. Having
never witnessed any of these experiments, I will
neither undertake to uphold the truth of this asser-
tion, nor will I question its veracity ; but there are
hundreds of reliable persons in the country who will
unhesitatingly swear to its efficacy ; among them, is
the testimony of Dr. Benites, a professional gentleman
who has published the result of his experiments in a
small book on the Materia Medica of the country.
With the view of ascertaining the alleged properties
of the guaco he devoted a great portion of his time
while at La Victoria in experimenting with various
kinds of snakes ; from him I quote the following pas-
sage : " The guaco possesses in a high degree the

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 217

faculty of preserving man and animals in general
from the terrible and fatal effects of the bites of ser-
pents. This valuable secret, discovered in Bogota by
the celebrated naturalist, Don Celestino Mutis, in
1788, remains still as such among some cwranderos
of our own country, who, under certain mysterious
forms, and availing themselves of the fangs of ser-
pents, puncture several slight incisions in certain
parts of the body, which they fill with the powdered
leaves of the guaco previously made dry, and admin-
ister the same internally mixed in common rum.
This property of the guaco is so reliable, inoculation
by means of the juice such as was practised by Mutis
himself so well authenticated, and the facts concern-
ing it so well attested, that there cannot longer exist
the least doubt in regard to its efficacy. I wished to
convince myself by actual experiment, and can testify
that in a thousand trials of inoculation practised by
myself in different ways on patients whom I allowed
to be bitten by various kinds of snakes, I never knew
one to fail. Suffice it to say that the principal amuse-
ment of children in this place is to catch, carry about
and play with snakes, and that even young ladies
keep them in their bosoms or coil them around their
necks."

It appears, nevertheless, absolutely necessary to
renew the inoculation at different epochs of a man's
life, as in the case of vaccination it loses its power
after a time. It was no doubt owing to his neglect
of the rule, that a gentleman in the town of Ocumare
some years ago fell a victim to his blind confidence
in this sort of inoculation. Don !N". Ugarte had kept
10

218 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

a rattlesnake in a drawer during four years ; with it
he occasionally amused himself, no more harm result-
ing therefrom than if it had been a kitten. One day
on returning home from his rounds in the plantation,
he felt in the humor of playing a little with his old
pet, and accordingly took him out of his berth and
placed him upon the writing desk before him. One
of the children who had also been inoculated happen-
ing to be near, the father suggested that he should
kiss the reptile ; to this, the child objected very de-
cidedly ; the foolish parent, however, insisting, the
mother interfered and begged that her child should
not be compelled to touch the loathsome creature ;
whereupon the father exclaimed : " How foolish you
are ! I will show you how it kisses me. Now, then,
pet, give me a kiss ; " and so saying, he leaned for-
ward toward the snake ; true to its instincts, the
reptile sprang to his lips and implanted such a kiss
that its master never recovered from the effects. Both
fangs of the snake went quite through his upper lip,
and he at once felt himself to be mortally wounded.
A physician was sent for without delay, but he ex-
pired before assistance could reach him.

The guaco is employed, moreover, in various other
disorders of the system with great success. In chronic
rheumatism it is an invaluable remedy both in the
form of poultices made of the fresh leaves, or by sim-
ply rubbing the part affected with a decoction of the
plant in spirits, and taking internally one or two
ounces of the expressed juice, morning and evening.
Administered in the latter form it is an efficacious
remedy against hydrophobia, if given immediately

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 219

after the person has been
bitten by a mad dog. Gen-
eral Paez was thus saved,
when a youth, from this
dreadful scourge of tropical
countries ; he has neverthe-
less retained in after life
some evil effects of the
virus still in his systen^
manifesting itself in a ten-
dency to severe spasmodic
affections, especially at
sight of a snake, which
invariably induces violent
convulsions.

Next to the guaco in
importance as an alexiphar-
mic, may be classed the
raiz de mato, including
several varieties of Aristo-
lochias, the roots of which
are intensely bitter. As
its name implies, it is said
to afford the mato — a large
species of lizard — a prompt
antidote against the bite
of his old antagonist, the
snake. There would seem
to exist some ancient
grudge between these two
reptiles, many persons as-
serting that whenever they

220 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

come in sight of one another, they instantly rush to the
attack, the mato never failing to overcome his rival
by his superior botanical knowledge ; this, or his in-
stinct, prompts him to seek the plant, and swallowing
some of the leaves, returns recuperated to the fight.*
To the facts adduced above, I now have the pleas-
ure of adding the testimony of such an authority as
Grosse, who has devoted an entire chapter of his truly
romantic bookf to the consideration of a subject
" well worthy of minute investigation by able and un-
prejudiced men of science, willing to receive unscien-
tific information and suggestions, in various parts of the
world, particularly in the intertropical regions of both
hemispheres/' Among the many well-authenticated
incidents recorded by him, I select the following as
bearing a striking similarity to the one just mentioned :
" Some animals, especially those which prey upon
serpents, seem to be proof against their bites. The
ichneumons, or mangoustes of Africa and Asia, have
long been celebrated for their immunity, and veritable
stories have been narrated of their having recourse to
some herb, when bitten, after which they successfully
renewed the attack. Percival, in his account of Cey-

* Dr. Lindley, speaking of the properties of Aristolochias in gen-
eral, and more especially of A. serpentaria — a North American species
— observes : " As its name implies, it is used as an antidote to serpent
bites, a quality in which several other species participate, among which
may be mentioned A. trilobata, a Jamaica plant, also employed as a
sudden and powerful sudorific; and the Cartagena A unguici da, concern-
ing which Jaquin writes, that the juice of the root, chewed and intro-
duced into the mouth of a serpent, so stupefies it that it may for a long
time be handled with impunity ; if the reptile is compelled to swallow
a few drops, it perishes in convulsions." — Vegetable Kingdom.

\ The Romance of Natural History — Second Series, chap. ix.

PLANTS AND SNAKES. 221

Ion, relates that a mangouste placed in a close room
where a venomous serpent was, instead of darting at
it, as he would ordinarily have done, ran peeping
about, anxiously seeking some way of escape ; but
finding none, it returned to its master, crept into his
bosom, and could by no means be persuaded to face the
snake. When, however, both were removed out of the
house into the open field, the maugouste instantly
flew at the serpent, and soon destroyed it. After the
combat the little quadruped suddenly disappeared for
a few minutes, and again returned. Percival con-
cludes, not unreasonably, that during its absence it
had found the antidotal herb, and eaten of it. The
natives state that the maugouste resorts on such oc-
casions to the OpMorhiza mungos, whose root is re-
puted a specific for serpent-bites. This is a cincho-
naceous plant, so intensely bitter that it is called by
the Malays by a name which signifies earth-gall/'

How wonderful the provisions of bountiful Nature
are ; and still more singular the readiness of the hu-
man intellect, whether in a rude or a cultivated state,
to make them subservient to its wants ! The most
extraordinary antidote against the bite of serpents
yet within my knowledge, is the one employed on the
coast of Cartagena, not the " earth-gall/' which they
possess of the bitterest kind in Aristolochia unguicida,
but the gall of the reptile itself, an alcoholic solution
of which, administered to the patient in small doses,
rubbing the wound with the same, or with spirits of
ammonia, being sufficient to counteract the virus of
the most deadly serpents of that region.

CHAPTER XVI.

TIGER STORIES.

:'T3 -;2 ^nlitCy •'

ON the second night from our arrival at the Mata,
just as most of our party in their hammocks were
swinging off into dreamland, the ominous cry of El
Tigre ! — the tiger — was heard in the direction of the
camp fires, where a few of the men still lingered. As
if lifted by a gust of the pampero, every man dropped
from his aerial couch, and in an instant the whole
camp became a scene of the wildest confusion. Fire-
brands flew in every direction, by the uncertain glare
of which we gained occasional glimpses of the jaguar,
for such was the intruder, prowling near us like a
huge cat. The horses snorted in terror, the men
shouted vociferously, while our brave Monico com-
menced drumming upon his pots and kettles as if
they were so many gongs, with which in his capacity
of cook he summoned us to dinner, creating such an
uproar as drowned the voices of men and beasts, and
was horrible enough to frighten away a legion of
jaguars. The odor of the savory spits, at all hours
faithful to their posts around the camp fires, had

TIGER STORIES. 223

doubtless proved the magnet of attraction to his
spotted majesty, who, probably disgusted with the
style of his reception, made a precipitate retreat to
his stronghold in the forest, growling indignation at
our want of hospitality.

Although among the natives he is commonly
known by the name of the tiger, this animal is act-
ually the jaguar or Felix Onza of naturalists, no real
tigers existing in any part of America. It neverthe-
less exerts the same tyranny over other animals as
does the tiger or leopard in the hot regions of the Old
World, differing from its congener principally in the
form of the marks upon his skin, which in the jaguar
of America are rounded or in rings, therein unlike the
long stripes of the Bengal tiger. In another species
common to the forests of Guayana, the skin is nearly
black, the spots being invisible except in the broad
sunlight. This is considered the most sanguinary a,nd
ferocious. Some jaguars attain a great size, measur-
ing seven feet from the nose to the tail. They are
sufficiently powerful to kill an ox or horse and drag
them off over the highest fences.

"When the excitement occasioned by the intrusion
of the nocturnal thief had subsided, few of us were
inclined for sleep ; several of our men, therefore, who
had been at different times active participators in
similar adventures, volunteered entertaining us for
the remainder of the night with some interesting
stories concerning this lord of South American for-
ests. From them I gathered many useful facts re-
specting his habits and disposition, which I shall
recount as nearly as possible verbatim.

224 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Although, perhaps, the most powerful among wild
beasts of this continent, the jaguar is by no means as
terrible as might be supposed from the renown of his
prowess. Occasionally when hard pressed by hunger
he ventures within the precincts of man, robbing the
corrals of the farmhouse of their defenceless inmates.
Many instances are also related of Jhis having attacked
and carried off a solitary traveller to his lair in the
woods ; but he usually evinces the profoundest respect
for man unless driven to extremities, when he has
been known to set at defiance the combined efforts of
a host of men and dogs. When thus, by a too inti-
mate acquaintance with the people and flocks of some
particular community, he has gone so far as to levy
blackmail upon them, the appellation of cebado — as in
the case of the crocodile — is given to the jaguar. An
animal of this description is said to possess wonderful
daring and instinct, making him by far the most dan-
gerous of the class, attacking not only tame animals
in the corrals, but even individuals are frequently as-
sailed and devoured by him. It is said also that when
he has once tasted human blood, he becomes insatiable
in his eagerness to procure this luxury. They are then
so dangerous, that the owners of cattle farms usually
call a meeting of all the hateros in the vicinity, capa-
ble of handling lazo or lance — firearms being rarely
used in expeditions of this kind — and with the assist-
ance of a pack of well-trained hounds of a peculiar
breed, called tigreros in consequence, they surround
the wood supposed to harbor the tiger, and beating
carefully about the jungle, drive him out into the open
plain, where men on horseback are stationed ready to

TIGER STORIES. 225

lazo the game as it breaks cover. To ensure success,
it is only requisite that the horses be steady and well
trained to the sport ; and as the tiger, conscious of
his danger, frequently refuses to quit the jungle, a
number of daring matadors are also needed to drive
him out or attack him in his lair, assisted in this by
the dogs, which, by harassing him on all sides, divert
him from the assailants.

Jaguars were at one time so numerous in the
Llanos, that their ravages upon the calves and young
foals were truly frightful. This circumstance, in ad-
dition to the value attached in other countries to
their beautiful skins, have contributed to reduce the
numbers very considerably, as whenever they make
their appearance they are eagerly pursued.

In its wild state the jaguar is an exceedingly beau-
tiful animal ; his motions particularly easy and grace-
ful, and possessing wonderful agility in. bounding
among the trees and tall grass of the savannas.
"When watching for prey, he generally crouches upon
the ground, the fore paws stretched out, resting his
head between them in a manner very similar to that
of the domestic cat ; and as he climbs trees with a
facility almost equal to that of monkeys, these are in
exceeding dread of him on that account.

The haunts usually preferred by the jaguar appear
to be swampy borders of marshes and lagoons over-
grown with reeds and wild plantain, where they are
sure of finding plenty of game. Water hogs or capy-
varas especially, are easy prey, as they cannot move
except in short jumps. It is asserted that where these
animals abound, there is little to be feared from the
10*

226 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

jaguar, which always prefers the wild animals of the
field for food, becoming bolder and more dangerous
to man in proportion as these disappear.

My earliest recollection of the jaguar dates from
the time when the famous town of Achaguas was
head-quarters for the patriot army commanded by
my father. I was a little fellow not more than three
years of age, when a foraging party fell in with a
tigress and her cub ; the latter they secured and
brought to Achaguas after a desperate struggle with
the mother. The extreme beauty and youth of the
captive soon gained the sympathies and favor of a
host of admirers, especially those of the female de-
partment, in the household of Colonel Mujica, who
purchased it and consigned it to their care. Under
their special protection and good treatment it quickly
grew strong enough to take part in all squabbles
among the dogs and cats of the family, which an-
imals always form a prominent feature in all well-
regulated Llanero establishments. At first the new
pet was allowed the entire freedom of the premises,
associating very readily with every stranger who vis-
ited the house, and evincing none of the disagreeable
traits ascribed to these animals. I, who participated
in all its juvenile antics, and who supposed it to be
only a large cat, very soon became its favorite play-
mate, until on one occasion it carried its pranks so
far as to throw me down, at the same time tearing
my clothing to rags with its claws. From this mo-
ment it was considered expedient to chain up my
playfellow, and accordingly he was secured to a pillar

TIGER STORIES 227

in the corridor of the house. It is related of this fa-
vorite, that having afterward broken its chain, it
speedily found the way to the poultry yard where the
Colonel kept his game chickens, not one of which was
left to fight its battles over. For this unpardonable
breach of discipline the young tiger received so sound
a castigation as to cripple the poor fellow for life.

Numberless are the tricks recorded of the lame
tiger of Colonel Mujica, they for a time constituting
the principal amusement of those of the army who
were in the habit of frequenting the Colonel's quarters
to while away their idle hours at the favorite game
of monte. What finally became of my uncouth play-
fellow, I am unable to state ; the probability is that
he, as well as most of the brave champions of that
memorable epoch, is dead ; at all events, they are
buried .... in the dust of the past.

In a solitary ranch, not far from San Jaime, there
once lived a poor widow, who, out of compassion for
a young cub which had been picked up by some va-
queros undertook to raise it with the milk of her own
goats, sheltering it at night from the damp under the
folds of her bed, covering and treating the foundling
with as much affection as though it were her child.
In return, the little fellow became so attached to its
adopted mother, that it could not endure a moment's
separation from her, and would lie like a cat by the
fireside while she devoted herself to the occupations
of the kitchen. As it grew older and stronger, the
woman's slender stock of goats was rapidly dimin-
ished by its repeated depredations ; it was therefore

228 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

deemed prudent to give it wider range than the
widow's little farm-yard, and it was encouraged to
seek for game in the neighboring woods. "Whenever
successful in these excursions, the intelligent creature
invariably brought some home, and with seeming
pride laid it at the feet of its benefactress. On one
occasion, some of her neighbors having come to pass
the day with her, she thought that as game was plen-
tiful and easily obtained, she would spare such of her
goats as had thus far escaped the teeth of her favorite,
and, instead, procure with its assistance a supply of
venison with which to treat her guests. Accordingly,
leaving the hut in their charge, she and her efficient
hunter started for the woods, proposing to be back in
time to cook the dinner ; but to the astonishment of
her visitors, the dinner-hour arrived, then the night,
but no tidings of the hunters ; and up to this time, I
believe, nothing has been heard about either of the
former tenants of the solitary ranch, although it is
not difficult to imagine the poor widow's fate.

"We had once in our employ a stout and powerful
sambo, who on account of his name — Bolivar — and
his great muscular development, had received the
sobriquet of Bolivote, or big Bolivar. Great was his
pride in possessing not only the same patronymic as
the distinguished General of his name, but also some
deep scars on his right arm, inflicted by the claws of
a jaguar, which he improved every opportunity of
displaying.

Bolivote had been riding hard during a whole
day, and feeling rather weary, sought repose under

TIGER STORIES. 229

the shade of a clump of palm trees, allowing his horse
meanwhile to crop the grass near by. He had lain
down at the foot of a palm, and almost fallen asleep,
when he was roused by a rustling of the leaves over-
head, and looking up to ascertain the cause, beheld
with astonishment a large jaguar in the act of spring-
ing upon him. He started to his feet, but was within
the tiger's grasp ere he could unsheath his sword.
Without losing a moment he plunged his finger into
one of the fiery eyeballs glaring upon him, and suc-
ceeded in forcing it from its socket. The pain thus
inflicted was so acute, that the tiger retreated with
fearful yells ; yet not before he had mangled with
teeth and claws the sturdy arm which had punished
him so severely.

During our journey across the pampas, we were
shown the spot where not long before a jaguar had
attacked a woman. Her preservation, also, was due
to presence of mind, and to the fact of being armed
with a machete or cutlass, with which she had in-
tended cutting a load of wood for domestic uses.
The wood being near at hand, she was in the daily
habit of fearlessly traversing the plain alone. On
one occasion she went al monte, to the fields, as they
say there, with the intention of collecting her usual
load of fagots. No sooner did she commence break-
ing the sticks, than a deep rumbling growl which
seemed to shake the ground beneath her feet, almost
paralyzed her movements. Although the sound was
somewhat familiar, yet she never before had heard it
so near at hand, and she was therefore instantly con-

230 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

scions of her perilous situation. Knowing that an
attempt at precipitate flight would only contribute to
increase the anger of the tiger, she decided accord-
ingly upon concealing herself and remaining perfectly
quiet behind a large tree. Vain endeavor ! in a few
moments a large jaguar glided from the tangled jun-
gle and stood before the terrified woman, his eyes
shooting fire, his open mouth parched with thirst of
blood. At the dread sight she gave herself up for
lost, and began reciting aloud a prayer to her patron
saint, which the tiger answered with another fearful
roar. The jaguar then commenced tearing up the
roots of the nearest tree, looking the while like a huge
cat sharpening his claws. Then gradually approach-
ing the woman's hiding-place until within a few yards,
with a bound he cleared the space separating them,
and alighted at the foot of the tree behind which she
was sheltered. Without a moment's loss, the woman
aimed a blow with her machete^ severing one of the
paws which grasped the tree. This partly disabling
him, he retreated a few paces ; but soon returning to
the attack, received a second blow, this time on his
head, with such good effect that he fell stunned upon
the ground. It is needless to add that ojir heroine
did not wait to see what might have been the final
result of this blow, but springing from her hiding-
place, she so belabored him with her machete as to
completely spoil his skin for marketable purposes.

Among the troop of idlers and adventurers always
following the camp, we were favored at Mata Gorda
with the company of a famous story teller of the

TIGER STORIES. 231

A pure, who, in wonderful encounters with wild
beasts, and marvellous adventures, might almost
rival the celebrated Baron Munchausen, or even the
sailor of Arabian Nights celebrity. His real name
was B. ; but owing to his diminutive stature and
cunning, he had been honored with the familiar ap-
pellation of Tio Conejo.* Indeed, so small was he,
that if we credit his statement, he was often mistaken
for his own baby, usurping its place in the cradle for
the purpose of enjoying the kisses and other petites
caresses usually lavished by the female sex upon these
tender innocents. Among the various incidents of
his eventful life, he had, as a matter of course, some-
thing to say concerning tigers.

" Once upon a time," said our humorous compan-
ion, " I was by the banks of the river Uribante, and
there had an opportunity of cheating Tio Tigre in
his endeavors to make mince meat of my humble
self. Returning one day from a successful fishing
excursion, I was enjoying my usual siesta when El
Tio made up his mind, as it seemed, to pay me an
unexpected visit, doubtless with the intention of rob-
bing me of the products of my industry, which I had
dressed and salted a few minutes before. Happily I
have for obvious reasons accustomed my eyes to
keep alternate watch when camping out alone, as was
the case in this instance, so that if approached by any
evil-disposed individual, I am always able to avoid

* Tio Tigre and Tio Conejo— Uncle Tiger and Uncle Rabbit. These
are the heroes of endless adventures, the mother's never-failing source of
amusement to her children, supposed to have taken place in the woods
of Venezuela.

232 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

danger through the watchfulness of the one on duty ;
when this sentinel becomes weary, I allow it to sleep
and rouse its fellow.

" Well, Senores, as I have said already, one of my
watchmen observing the tiger coming toward me, I
sprang from my hammock with the intention of giv-
ing him a warm reception ; but, luckily for the
spotted vagabond, my cuchillo^ which is always by
my side, was left forgotten among the heap of fish I
had been dressing. Thus cut off from my only means
of defence, and observing near by an immense gourd
of a size such as is rarely seen in these parts, I slipped
into it just when Tio Tigre thought he had me."

The narrative was here interrupted by a sceptical
individual from the audience insisting upon being en-
lightened as to the precise dimensions of that gourd ;
the reply was, " Why, Sirs, here is nothing extraor-
dinary. I have seen squashes at the foot of the Cor-
dilleras, each of which would be a load sufficient for
a bongo. I once lost a pack of mules during the
night, and after searching for them around the base
of what I supposed a hillock, I found the sagacious
animals inside one of these squashes — for such was
the seeming hillock — supping at leisure on the succu-
lent pulp, having gnawed for themselves a passage to
the interior. But to return to my story. The tiger,
enraged at my sudden disappearance, commenced a
deliberate attack with teeth and claws upon the tough
and slippery shell, with no other result than that of
rolling the gourd with me in it further from him.

" It was hugely amusing to watch from my strong-
hold the tactics of my assailant; at one moment

TIGER STORIES. 233

crouched a short distance off upon the ground, he
would watch the mysterious object much as a cat
watches a mouse ; then with a sudden spring pounced
again upon the gourd, thus causing it to roll before
him like a ball. My only fear was, that the tiger in
one of these furious onsets might precipitate me into
the stream below. I was not then aware that water
in deep rivers reaches no lower than the base of their
steep banks, which act as support for the whole body
of water above, thus leaving a clear expanse under-
neath and the bed of the river entirely dry, a remark-
able fact which I discovered on another occasion
when diving in the Orinoco for a lost treasure belong-
ing to the monks.

" That which I feared at last came to pass. The
gourd, pushed by the tiger, fell spinning into the
water, and I found myself sailing down the stream
escorted by a band of hungry crocodiles, who
watched me with eager eyes and open jaws, until
my patron saint in the form of a humane porpoise
came to my assistance, frightened off the ugly
wretches, and receiving me on his back, landed me
in safety on a desert shore, where, amigos, you will
have to leave me for the present, as it is almost morn-
ing, and we must sleep an hour or two before starting
for the Rodeo."

THE PANTHER-TIGER.

Although principally a sojourner in the more ele-
vated parts of the country, the panther is occasion-
ally seen descending toward the plains in search of

234 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the abundant fare of the pampas. He resembles the
jaguar in many respects, and is called in consequence,
tigre de serrania, or mountain tiger. He is, however,
easily distinguished from the former by the shape of
his head, which in the panther is more acute toward
the snout, while the spots on his skin are smaller and
more closely set.

The panther is by far the bolder and more san-
guinary of the two ; he frequents the mountain passes,
waylaying stray animals and solitary travellers ; and
there are many cases on record in which he has dis-
played his bloodthirsty propensities by boldly seeking
food even in the very haunts of man.

Some of the mountain districts of Venezuela are
so infested with them, that few travellers ever ven-
ture to journey alone there ; as, for instance, the mon-
tana de Capaya, east of Caracas, and the Cerro de
Aroa to the west, both famed for the number and
boldness of these animals. Under cover of the dense
forests with which those mountains are clothed to the
very summit, they lie in wait. Not long since, a
traveller from the village of Aroa, finding the dis-
tance greater than he had anticipated, was compelled
to pass the night in the forest. Fearing the panthers,
he slung his hammock between two palm trees as
high as possible from the ground, hoping doubtless
thereby to escape them, but his precautions proved
of no avail ; the poor traveller fell a prey to one of
these sanguinary beasts. A few days after, a party
of muleteers passing along the same route, found on
the spot where the sad tragedy had been enacted,
evidence of the bloody assault. Deep furrows

TIGER STORIES. 235

ploughed in the ground between the palm trees,
showed that the panther must have made frequent
and tremendous leaps to reach the unfortunate travel-
ler ; but with the exception of the torn hammock,
there remained no vestige of the victim.

My first vacation trip from the terrors of a South
American school and the angry visage of a harsh pre-
ceptor, is still fresh in my mind, as is also the fright
I received upon the road from an imaginary panther
while endeavoring to reach before daylight the near-
est inn upon the route.

The road from the capital to the Yalleys of Ara-
gua — our destination — lies for the most part over a
high ridge of mountains with precipitous sides, inter-
spersed here and there with deep ravines and almost
impenetrable thickets of forest trees, fit lurking-places
for wild beasts and banditti. The extreme steepness
of the road renders the aid of mules, or horses of su-
perior mettle, imperative, and for this exigency our
attentive guides had well provided before leaving
Caracas.

The party was principally composed of young gen-
tlemen and their attendants, all like myself bound to
the fertile regions of Aragua, where we purposed pass-
ing the holidays with our families ; and a wilder set
of madcaps it would have been difficult to find.
Every moment witnessed a malicious trick, some-
times tickling the mules under the cruppers with
whips, until, worried into frenzy, they plunged fear-
fully along the road, placing us in danger of being
hurled into eternity through the yawning chasms be-

236 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

neatli. Sometimes jerking the tail of a neighbor's
mule, causing the animal to whirl so violently as to
almost destroy its balance. Occasionally some of the
party might be seen scrambling up the rugged side
of a mountain after bright colored insects or wild
berries. At length, the steepness of the ascent no
longer permitting the continuance of our pranks, the
guides entertained us with frightful stories of a tiger
said to lurk in these mountains ; but chiefly with ac-
counts of horrid murders perpetrated at various points
along our route, which, judging from the many crosses
and stone mounds raised to the victims by the piety
of wayfarers, must have been truly appalling in num-
ber. In those parts it is customary to mark the spot
where a crime of the kind has been committed, with
a wooden cross, at whose foot every passer-by casts
a stone, muttering at the same time a prayer for the
repose of the unshriven soul. One of these memorials
was erected to a poor fellow, whose throat had been
cut and body frightfully mutilated for a new poncho
and a few reals. At another, a tiger had seized a
wearied poultry carrier imprudently asleep by the
side of his coop, and devoured him and his chickens.
In another instance, the tiger appeared suddenly
among a group of muleteers quietly refreshing them-
selves by the murmuring waters of a mountain stream,
and after scattering the aifrighted group, helped him-
self to their repast.

These stories, told with great vivacity and much
embellishment, excited in a high degree the fervid
imaginations of the youthful cavalcade, causing them
as night approached to keep close together. They,
however, did not deter me, who had ever a peculiar

TIGER STORIES. 237

fondness for the beautiful in nature, from loitering
somewhat in the rear of my companion to gaze in
wondering admiration upon the grandeur and wild
luxuriance of the scene which on all sides met my
eyes. Absorbed in contemplation I was riding slowly
along, when suddenly, and to my great horror and
dismay, I found myself in presence of, apparently, the
dreaded tiger of the mountains. My imagination,
roused by the exciting stories of the muleteers, showed
me the spotted brute seated upon his haunches, his
sinister eyes gazing steadily at me over his right
shoulder. Notwithstanding this pacific attitude, a
thrill of terror chilled my veins, while in spite of the
cold prevailing on those mountain ranges, heavy
drops of perspiration streamed from my trembling
body. The tiger seeming spell-bound with my sud-
den apparition, I endeavored to cry aloud for help ;
but terror had deprived me of voice. I then con-
cluded to dismount and place the mule between
myself and the tiger, which impulse was suddenly
checked as I caught sight of the yawning precipice
beside me. I had therefore no alternative, other
than the ignominious one of sliding down in the rear
of my mule, a feat I rapidly accomplished without in
the least inconveniencing the patient creature, which
all the while stood quietly awaiting my pleasure. At
this moment the moon, until then partially obscured
by the dense fog, shone brilliantly upon the scene,
when, to my great mortification and greater relief, I
discovered that the ferocious tiger of my imagination
was only the fallen branch of a tree covered with
leaves, which last my fertile fancy had mistaken for
the spotted skin of the dreaded mountain tiger.

CHAPTER XVII.

SHOOTING ADVENTURES.

WE were now in- the very midst of the most splen-
did shooting ground of the republic, and each day
my quest after the feathered inhabitants of those fine
groves was rewarded with an abundant supply of
pavas, guacharacas, and that most noble and beauti-
ful of all game birds, the pauji or crested curassow
of South America, (Crax alector.) This fino species
is found in all parts of the country, especially in the
woods of the tierra caliente, where it can be tracked
without difficulty by the shrill and prolonged whistle
with which it calls its mate, and which can be heard
from a long distance. It appears not to notice the
presence of the hunter, allowing itself to be shot
down without making the least effort to avoid the
danger. This bird is nearly the same size as the do-
mestic turkey, and being easily domesticated, could
very well supply the place of that fowl, as the flesh is
juicy and of exquisite flavor. Its plumage is pecu-
liarly rich and beautiful, the head and neck being
white and the rest of its body of a rich olive brown,
excepting the wing tips which are black. An elegant

SHOOTING ADVENTURES. 239

tuft of curled, glossy 'black feathers surmounts the
head, adding greatly to the splendor of its appear-
ance. In the more elevated parts of the country
there is another species, the pauji de piedra or
cashew-bird, so called from a singular excrescence on
the top of its head, in color a bluish gray, and bear-
ing some resemblance to a polished nodule of slate.
This bird only inhabits woods growing at about four
thousand feet of elevation, and if possible exceeds in
beauty the preceding. Its plumage of a deep black,
with tints of olive green, contrasts exquisitely with
that of the bill and legs, which are respectively of a
brilliant scarlet and deep yellow. They are even
more easily domesticated than the preceding, and are
therefore to be met with in many a farm yard of the
Cordillera, where they form one of its most graceful
ornaments.

The guacharaca or South American pheasant may
also be classed among the finest game birds of Venez-
uela, and is extremely abundant everywhere. In riding
along the solitary roads through the plains and fertile
vales of the tierra caliente, the traveller may have
often noticed at all hours of the day and even of the
night, more especially at the approach of rain, a most
discordant chattering in harsh and shrill notes ; it is
the song of the guacharaca, a bird of about the size
of the domestic hen, bearing some resemblance to the
female pheasant, and like it of a chocolate color. It
is of a sociable nature, always congregating in flocks
of twenty or thirty. The moment one of the number
leads the chant, all the rest join in chorus, uttering
distinctly in hoarse repetition guacharaca, guacha-

240 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

raca / hence the name of this* bird. These cries are
invariably responded to by all the flocks in the neigh-
borhood, so that in a short time the whole valley
rings from end to end with their discordant voices.
Like all other gallinaceous birds, it is very easily do-
mesticated with the paujies, pavas, gaUinetas, and
several other wild fowl with which the rural inhabi-
tant loves to stock his yard.

In addition to the foregoing, there are also in the
Llanos all kinds of wild pigeons, doves, plovers, and
quails, the latter so abundant that they can easily be
killed by the hundred with a stick. And indeed, so
great is the almost endless variety of fine birds in
these wilds, that it would be impossible, within the
limits of these pages, to enter into further detail con-
cerning them.

Deer were also very plentiful, both in the mata,
whither they were attracted by its refreshing shade,
and in the meadows around it ; but having no dogs
with us, and being unwilling to tire our horses in un-
profitable sport, we refrained from their pursuit. One
afternoon, however, much to my surprise, a merry,
clever fellow by the name of Casimiro, who had fol-
lowed us from the valleys, entered the camp bending
under the weight of a fine doe which he had killed
that afternoon, together with a buck that an Indian
boy was carrying for him. On our complimenting
his extraordinary skill in killing two deer in so short
a space of time, he informed us that he could have
brought down any number of them, and intended
retracing his steps at once for more. This proved no
mere boast, for quickly returning to the woods, he

SHOOTING ADVENTURES.

soon after again made his appearance with a similar
load, which, seating himself by the fire, he at once
commenced skinning.

I inquired of Casimiro the occasion of his success ;
he replied by producing a tube of bamboo about the
thickness of the thumb, one end being covered with
a thin membrane. On blowing through the other
end, a sound precisely resembling the bleating of a
young fawn resulted. It is in this manner that the
treacherous hunter decoys the anxious doe, whose
every motion he watches from the place of his con-
cealment behind the branches of some tree, usually
the algarrobo, of whose pods deer are very fond.
This detestable expedient is, I am glad to state, rarely
practised unless by hungry sportsmen ; and as we
were then in the midst of plenty, and venison besides
not being much relished by the beef-eating popula*
tion of the Llanos, we had fortunately no occasion to
resort to it in any of our subsequent deer-shooting
adventures.

Another device much practised by Indians in
these cases, consists in assuming the guise of the
great garzon or soldier crane of the pampas, whose
company appears always welcome to deer grazing in
the open prairie. This crane, which I have mentioned
in a former chapter, as being at the least five feet in
height, is mounted upon a pair of long slender legs,
giving it the appearance of walking on stilts ; their
plumage is a dazzling white, and they have a pouch
under the throat of a brilliant scarlet color. The
bill, too, is quite a remarkable feature, fully a foot
11

24:2 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

long and very wide at the base, which permits of
swallowing at a mouthful large fish, as well as frogs,
toads and snakes, of which last it partakes with equal
relish. All that the hunter has to do, who intends
ensnaring his deer with borrowed plumes, is to hide
his own face with a mask, which must have a long
bill resembling that of the crane attached to it. The
mask being securely fastened on, he finishes his toilet
by covering his body to his knees with a white gar-
ment.

In this simple disguise the hunter, equipped be-
sides with his gun or bow and arrows, makes straight
for the game, careful however to approach it in a
contrary direction to that of the wind, deer possessing
peculiarly acute powers of scent. On one occasion,
I was fortunate enough to shoot three of these shy
animals out of a small herd, before the rest took the
alarm.

SHOOTING ADVENTURES. 243

Our young attache, Roseliano, who had witnessed
the universal success of these devices, envying the
achievements of his elders, determined to try what he
could accomplish for himself in this line. Accord-
ingly, choosing for his intended victim a fine stag
grazing at no great distance from the camp, he forth-
with proceeded on his experiment. Having no gar-
zorfs beak at hand, nor even a white garment, with
which to personate the feathered dandy of the savan-
nas, he was for some time at a loss how to approach
the game without alarming it, when a malicious com-
panion persuaded him that he could ensnare the deer
equally well if he presented himself simply in purls
naturalibus, assuring him that the animal would in-
dubitably conceive him to be a rare bird or at least
a new species of garzon. Roseliano, finally convinced
by these specious representations, quickly denuded
himself; then, gun in hand, and taking all necessary
precautions in regard to the wind, which was blowing
quite fresh at the time, immediately gave chase.

At first the stag appeared to pay little heed to the
enticing object, and allowed it to approach within
range ; but the moment the gun was raised, the stag
turned round and trotted slowly off, waving his short
tail defiantly. Sometimes he stopped for a little while,
seeming to examine from head to foot this unfeathered
biped, afterward resuming his mastications with per-
fect nonchalance. At such times Koseliano, with
due precautions, would creep slowly toward him,
when invariably the deer, almost within range, again
trotted composedly down the plain, not even giving
his pursuer a chance to aim at him. Occasionally he

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

would turn about, stamp his tiny hoof upon the hard
ground, and again move off wagging his little tail at
him as though to say, " No, you don't."

Thus went each, still eluding still pursuing, for a
long distance, without either seeming at all willing to
part company, until the burning sun began to tell
upon the bare skin of the young hunter, who expe-
rienced besides sundry painful reminders from the
thorny sensitive plants under foot. At length grow-
ing somewhat desperate, he dashed ahead and sent a
random shot after the deer without success, the ball
striking the ground far short of the mark. The deer
seemed now to think he had received notice to quit,
for, to the great disgust of poor Eoseliano, he at once
bounded gracefully over the tall grass and disap-
peared from view.

"Within a stone's throw of our camp were several
lagoons abounding in terrapihs and turtles, whilst on
all sides the savannas teemed with many delicious
quadrupeds. These, on account of their penchant
for the water, have been declared cold-blooded an-
imals by the church, and can in consequence be
eaten as fish; and as it was Holy "Week, a grand
hunt was proposed for the purpose of providing the
camp with food which should be wholesome as well
for the soul as the body. Accordingly, early on Good
Friday morning the whole disposable force assembled
in front of the ranch ; and after a partial organization,
all started on foot in different directions, some in
quest of cachicamos or armadillos, others for gala-
pagos and tortoises, while the less fastidious did not
disdain to try their skill upon those water hogs, the
chiguires or capyvaras.

SHOOTING ADVENTURES. 245

The results of the hunt far exceeded our expecta-
tion, as in less than four hours nearly three hundred
armadillos, and probably as many turtles, were
brought into camp. The flesh of the chiguire is not
much relished by the Llaneros, although it is excel-
lent for hams when properly cured and smoked ;
accordingly the carcasses, the hind quarters being
removed, were left to the turkey buzzards.

The flesh of the armadillo is most delicious, tast-
ing very much like young pig ; and being always
roasted in the shell — a thick
cuirass formed of successive
horny plates — all its juices are
effectually preserved. It is,
however, very rich eating, from
the excess of fatness, and there-
fore liable to produce indiges-
tion, if not followed by* a good
dose of aguardiente and a strong
sauce of Chili peppers. It is also said to exert very
injurious effects on persons predisposed to syphilitic
disorders of the system, developing incipient ulcers
and various other cutaneous diseases.

The armadillo is a harmless, curiously-formed
little quadruped, about the size of a common hedge-
hog ; it burrows in the ground, spending the greater
part of the day in cool retirement, issuing at dusk or
very early in the morning in search of food ; this con-
sists principally of worms, the larvae of insects or per-
chance a young snake from the broods that take shel-
ter among the cells of its subterranean abode — whether
by permission or as intruders, remains to be ascer-

24:6 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tained. The fact is, however, that many of these bur-
rows are so full of snakes, that it is necessary on ac-
count of them to exercise considerable caution when
passing near the abodes of armadillos. Two little
owls called aguaita-caminos, road-watchers, usually
stand like sentinels at the entrance of these burrows,
and by their constant flutterings around the sports-
man, and their uncouth motions, almost invariably
succeed in warning the armadillo. Nevertheless, if
the hunter approach in front, he can always secure it
with his hands as its vision in that direction is entirely
obscured by the position of the plates with which the
head is covered. "When attacked from the rear or
sides, it makes quickly for its burrow ; but if the
hunter, however, be sufficiently expert, he may suc-
ceed in getting hold of the long, horny tail of the an-
imal before it disappears entirely from view. Even
then, as this creature possesses the power of swelling
its body when thus attacked, it is rather difficult to
drag it out, unless by some means the size of the bur-
row can be enlarged. There is then danger of severe
wounds from its sharp claws, as well as of being bitten
by some of the poisonous snakes which share its
home.

"What affinity there is existing between this
quadruped and the finny inhabitants of the water,
prompting their classification among amphibia, I was
unable to ascertain ; but although the capyvara and
several others placed by the church under that cate-
gory, possess, it is true, great powers of resistance
while in water, the reverse is assuredly the case with
regard to the armadillo, which always seeks the higher

SHOOTING ADVENTURES. 24:7

grounds so as to escape submersion during the great
floods ; and I have often found it in the midst of ex-
tensive plains where no moisture excepting the dews
of night is to be seen for miles around.

When all the different parties, participants in the
hunting excursion, were once more seated round the
camp fires, it was quite amusing to hear their ac-
counts of the various incidents connected with it ;
one had got hold of a rattlesnake's tail, mistaking it
for that of an armadillo ; another had stumbled over
a crocodile while diving for turtles in a shallow creek ;
a third had his toe bitten off by caribes ; while not a
few experienced more or less severe shocks from elec-
tric eels. In front of many of the fires, soon blazing
under the trees, were arrayed on long wooden spits
entire carcasses of the armadillos split along the belly
and kept open by means of cross bars of green boughs.
Directly the coals were sufiiciently hot in the centre
of the fires, the galapagos were all beheaded and
thrown, still alive, into the midst of the burning em-
bers. These chelonia, like all other amphibia, are ex-
ceedingly tenacious of life ; their sufferings, therefore,
must doubtless be great under this lingering death, as
was manifested by their long-continued struggles in
the fire.

The Llaneros say that these turtles, according to
their most- exquisite gastronomers, should be eaten
where there is no light, asserting that they will then
be found more rich and juicy ; but the actual reason
for this, as I afterward ascertained to my great dis-
gust, was that some of the choicest morsels are pre-

24:8 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

cisely those which to be eaten must not be seen,
as otherwise they would unhesitatingly be rejected.

There are several varieties of fresh water tortoises
in the Apure, an abundant and wholesome food for
the inhabitants. The most common are the galapagos,
a large species of terrapin, the terecay and the arrau
or great turtle of the Orinoco, concerning which the
celebrated Father Guniilla wrote in his " Orinoco Il-
lustrated," that it would be as difficult to count the
grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as to
count the immense number of tortoises which inhabit
its margin and water. Although confined principally
to the broad channel of the Orinoco, the arraus
are met with also in great abundance in the Apare,
the Arauca, and most of the other large tributaries
of that river ; as also in the Amazon, according
to Bates' statements, who has devoted a chapter to
this magnificent turtle, and to the exciting scenes
which take place during the gathering of their eggs
by the Amazonian Indians and Portuguese traders.
As I intend to allude again to this subject, I will
return to their congeners of the flooded lands west
of the Orinoco. To convey a distinct idea of the
prodigious abundance of this species, it may suffice to
say that by merely driving a herd of wild cattle or
horses at full speed into any pond of these savannas,
the first wave produced by the sudden splash will
heave up thousands of turtles upon the beach.
Another method resorted to in the Llanos for obtain-
ing them, is by raking in the soft mud in which these
chelonia habitually bury themselves the moment they
are alarmed. After this mud becomes thoroughly

SHOOTING ADVENTURES. 249

dried by the summer's heat, they remain under its
indurated crust in a dormant state until the com-
mencement of the rainy season. Yet even here the
poor creatures are insecure, as they are not unfre-
quently roused from their siesta by the hunter setting
fire to the dry water plants, the ornaments of these
natural ponds ; at such times breaking through the
earth crust which environs them, they in vain en-
deavor to escape their tormentors, who can then pick
them up at their leisure.

In addition to the foregoing, there are two other
varieties of tortoises found amidst the marshes and
jungles of the Llanos ; they are the morrocoy or land
tortoise, having a hard and rounded shell, and the
jicotea, an animal which appears to form the con-
necting link between turtles proper and tortoises ;
both are of excellent flavor, more especially the for-
mer, whose liver, dressed and fried in its own gall, is
undoubtedly superior to that most prized of all epi-
curean morsels, foie gras. It is very large as com-
pared with the size of the animal, decreasing however
very materially if its owner has had a long fast, which,
as this reptile, like all others of the class, can and does
frequently live a long time without food, has doubt-
less occasioned the popular error that it feeds on its
own liver when long deprived of other nourishment.

During the season of great droughts, the morrocoy
seeks the hollow trunks of trees for shelter, where it
lives entirely without nourishment for several months,
until, feeling the dampness produced by the first
showers of spring penetrating his subterranean abode,

he moves slowly out to browse upon the tender shoots
11*

250 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of water plants and prairie lilies. The shell of this
tortoise is so hard that nothing short of heavy blows
from an axe can separate the thick plates of which it
is formed, and a locomotive engine might pass over it
without producing the least effect upon its unimpres-
sible tenant. Long after the carcass has been cut up
for cooking, and is in water boiling over the fire, the
pieces are incessantly in motion, and it is not until
the boiling has been continued many successive hours,
that the meat is fit for eating.

The land tortoise does not deposit its eggs in the

-T OO

sand, as is the practice with its congener of the water,
but drops them indiscriminately into any convenient
hole, leaving the care of hatching them to the heat of
the earth. The egg, which is larger than a hen's, is
extremely white, spherical in form, and very hard.
The male is readily distinguished from the female by
a deep depression of its pectoral plate, that of the
female being perfectly even with the ground.

I have been assured by reliable parties that the
blood of the marrowy is a specific for neuralgia, if
rubbed, while still warm, upon the part affected.

CHAPTER XVIII.

MATA TOTUMO.

LITTLE was accomplished in the way of hunting
during the two weeks we passed at Mata Gorda, oc-
cupying ourselves mainly in building a ranch for the
establishment of a caporal and his family, with cor-
rals attached, sufficiently spacious to accommodate a
large drove. Other parts of the estate requiring im-
mediate attention, we removed from Mata Gorda to
Mata Totumo, a retired corner of the savannas, whose
proximity to other cattle farms exposed it to the con-
stant depredations of poachers. In this way vast
numbers of our cattle were annually lost to us ; it
had accordingly become necessary to establish there
also a Fundacion, or small farm with a resident, capo-
ral, who should exercise a strict surveillance and take
charge of a small herd of tame cattle as a nucleus for a
permanent settlement in that exposed frontier.

Hardly were we established in the new encamp-
ment, when a party of our men in scouring the sa-
vanna encountered a band of these cattle poachers,
who had already collected a sufficient drove to make

252 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

them comfortable to the year's end, and were hasten-
ing home with their unlawful booty. Our people
immediately gave chase, but succeeded in capturing
two only of the robbers. After whipping these most
unmercifully, as is customary in the Llanos for similar
offences, and giving them in addition the positive as-
surance that, if again found within the precincts of
the estate, they would fare even worse, the rascals
were at length allowed to depart without further
punishment.

As usual in all our prairie encampments, much
time was occupied in destroying baneful weeds and
reptiles. Snakes especially were so plentiful as to at
times greatly endanger our barefooted community.
That habit is second nature, was certainly strikingly
exemplified in the present instance, for in a few days
we came to notice the heretofore dreaded snakes as
little as though so many harmless earthworms. Our
fears, if not their cause, being at length entirely re-
moved, we next erected a shelter from the inclemency
of the weather for our abundant luggage, no small
cause of anxiety, situated as we were at a long dis-
tance from the source of any fresh supplies. After-
wards we commenced raising corrals for our increas-
ing herds. Fortunately building materials were very
abundant ; and the bamboo, that graceful represen-
tative of the grasses, was of the greatest utility. Its
tall and pliant stems afforded all that was necessary
for rafters and fence rails, serving also various other
uses. To duly estimate the size attained by this giant
grass of the tropics, it is necessary to understand that
some steins reach the astonishing height of thirty

MATA TOTUMO. 253

or even forty feet, with a corresponding thickness
of six or seven inches at their base ; and as these
bamboos spring in immense clusters from the ground,
they grow at last into an aspect which is truly beau-
tiful. Innumerable slender leaves of a delicate sea
green color, clothe in masses the tops of these huge
stems, curving them downward by their weight, and
giving them, especially when sporting with the soft
breezes of the pampas, the appearance of wraving
plumes of most magnificent proportions, rising, bend-
ing, swaying in long, graceful sweeps over the tops
of the surrounding trees. An elegant writer, describ-
ing this majestic Queen of the Grasses, has beauti-
fully said, " Grace, delicacy, richness of form and
color, every element of vegetable beauty, appear com-
bined in this luxuriant dweller by the streams of the
tropics. Nothing is more cheerful to the eye of the
heated and wearied traveller, than the deep rocky
basins formed by mountain streams when filled with
water, and overshadowed by clumps of bamboo.
They often lean over the stream on one side and arch
the pathway on the other, excluding almost every
ray of sunlight from the cool recesses below. Their
delicate brittle leaves are stirred by the tiniest zephyr,
and bend to the pressure of the butterfly and the bee.
Sometimes clumps of bamboo stand on either side of the
roads and form long vaulted passages, as if by fretted
Gothic arches, with here and there branches of rich
flowers and leaves hanging down like beautiful cor-
bels. When the gale of the hurricane comes, these
groves of bamboo exchange an aspect of beauty for
that of grandeur. They are heaved and tossed like

254 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the billows of the sea, and their rich foliage driven in
every direction appears like surges breaking on the
rocks."

No sooner was the majada in readiness, than we
commenced the somewhat laborious, but at the same
time pleasingly exciting business of filling it, for
which purpose we called upon the neighboring cattle
farms of La Yagua and Caucagua for assistance. So
effectual were our efforts, that in a few days we had
collected two thousand animals for the brand, most
of which, having long passed the age when this oper-
ation is usually performed, gave us in consequence a
great deal of trouble. Occasionally, by way of relax-
ation from our labors, we busied ourselves in training
the boys in the manly art of torear, or the scarcely
less dangerous one of breaking in wild horses, on
which especially the hardy dwellers of the Llanos
eminently pride themselves. During our sojourn at
Mata Totumo, its owner became concerned in an in-
cident highly illustrative of this peculiar pride, so uni-
versal a trait among these children of Nature and the
Sun, illustrative no less of the almost entire freedom
from conventional restraint which exists between
master and servant in the Llanos. Our Leader had
taken a strong fancy to a beautiful cream colored
horse, which, although partially trained to the saddle,
missed no opportunity of practising some of his old
tricks, a favorite one being apparently to unseat,
whenever possible, his rider. This amusement he
several times indulged in at the expense of his master,
and, as it chanced, always in presence of his pet cap-

MATA TOTUMO. 255

oral, Sarmiento, who invariably gave carte Uanche
to his own witticisms on such occasions. To these
the good-humored master replied one day by chal-
lenging him to ride the horse round the camp on a
run without being thrown, a dollar to be added to his
wages if successful ; if the reverse, the same amount
to be thereafter deducted. " Done," cried Sarmiento,
extending his hand familiarly to his master; and
without more words, having blindfolded the horse by
means of a sliding leather strap attached to the bridle,
called tapaojos, he placed upon him his own saddle
and holsters, and the next moment was firmly seated
on his back. Then, removing the bandage, he at
once commenced belaboring the refractory stallion
with his chaparro, showering such powerful blows
upon his haunches, that the terrified animal rushed
headlong through the camp, rearing, plunging, and
tearing along the plain at a fearful pace. All in vain
were the efforts of the nigh frantic steed to shake the
unmerciful Centaur from his back ; the poor animal
had to strive against one with whom contention was
ineffectual, and who finally brought him back tri-
umphantly to the camp as submissively meek as he
had previously been savage and refractory.

Shortly after our arrival in that secluded spot,
came the Corporation of Mantecal, under whose juris-
diction we were, accompanied by many of the inhabi-
tants, to pay their respects and personal regards to
the former chieftain of the Llanos 'and late President
of the Republic, tendering him at the same time the
hospitalities of the town — a few straggling huts. It

256 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

was a surprise party, nevertheless we acquitted our-
selves with becoming hospitality. Two fat calves were
immediately slaughtered; and these, together with
numbers of armadillos, galapagos, and a fine sow from
the swamps near by, formed a banquet not unworthy
a London board of aldermen. A hastily constructed
table, its top made from laths of bamboo and tied
with lejucos or creepers to four rough posts set in the
ground, was soon raised under the trees ; the broad
leaves of the wild plantain formed the table cloth,
while the shells of galapagos served the double pur-
pose of plates and dishes, entirely in keeping with the
rural entertainment.

Here, as well as at Mata Gorda, game was most
abundant, and we could at all times count upon a
ready supply with which to vary the more substan-
tial dishes. Deer were plentiful in the surrounding
woods ; but I found them, after killing several, too
thin at this season to be worth hunting, especially as
the savannas were teeming with the finest cattle and
wild hogs ; the latter are in good condition at all
times, and each day our men brought to camp the
spoils of one or more capones hanging from the sad-
dles.

The ant-bear or great ant-eater, a stout and power-
ful animal measuring six feet from the snout to the
end of the tail, also ranged these prairies ; but al-
though his flesh is well-flavored and easily procured,
it is never used for food, owing to his repulsive ap-
pearance. " He is chiefly found in the inmost recesses
of the forest, and seems partial to the low and swampy
parts near creeks, where the trocly-tree grows. There

MATA TOTUMO. £57

he goes up and down in quest of ants, of which there
is never the least scarcity, so that he soon obtains a
sufficient supply of food with very little trouble. He
cannot travel fast ; man is superior to him in speed.
Without swiftness to enable him to escape from his
. enemies ; without teeth, the possession of which would
assist him in self-defence ; and without the power of
burrowing in the ground, by which he might conceal
himself from his pursuers, he still is capable of rang-
ing through these wilds in perfect safety ; nor does
he fear the fatal pressure of the serpent's fold, or the
teeth of the famished jaguar. Nature has formed his
fore-legs wonderfully thick, and strong, and muscular,
and armed his feet with three tremendous sharp and
crooked claws. Whenever he seizes an animal with
these formidable weapons, he hugs it close to his
body, and keeps it there till it dies through pressure,

258 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES,

or through want of food. Nor does the ant-bear in
the meantime suffer much from loss of aliment, as it
is a well-known fact that he can go longer without
food than, perhaps, any other animal, excepting the
land-tortoise. His skin is of a texture that perfectly
resists the bite of a dog ; his hinder parts are pro-
tected by thick and shaggy hair, while his immense
tail is large enough to cover his whole body." *

Numerous also were the foot-prints of the jaguar ;
yet, in my frequent perambulations through the forest,
it was never my fortune to encounter this despot of
the howling wilderness, although I one day mistook
for his voice that of the titiriji or great horned owl
of the pampas. I found him perched among the
branches of a guamo tree, inclining his large head
toward me with a scrutinizing look peculiar to those
birds, as if taking mental notes of my appearance.
Whenever I remained perfectly quiet he gave utter-
ance to his unearthly hootings, the woods echoing
arid re-echoing the dismal sounds. The titiriji would
seem to be possessed of some ventriloquial power, for
his voice, loud and deep as it was, yet appeared to
issue from a distance. The frequent effect of this pe-
culiarity is to mislead the unaccustomed hunter, who
by it is readily induced to wander on and on in un-
availing search. Having contemplated at leisure this
singular bird, I finally levelled my fowling-piece at
him, and brought him down with a charge of buck-
shot which I had destined for a deer. It proved a
very fine specimen, with wings as large as those of a

* Waterton's " Wanderings in South America."

MATA TOTUMO. 259

good sized turkey, while two horn-like tufts of feathers
rose on each side of the head, which, in addition to
the large, glaring eyes, gave him a truly ferocious
aspect. His food consists of all kinds of wild fowl ;
however, not being over scrupulous, he devours with
equal relish rats, mice and snakes ; while even mon-
keys of the smaller sort are often his prey. This owl
inhabits for the most part the loneliest and gloomiest
portions of the forest ; but is occasionally seen sol-
emnly watching from some convenient tree-top the
various inhabitants of the farmyard.

MANTECAL.

In compliance with an invitation tendered to the
General and his suite by the good people of Mantecal,
we started in a few days to visit their village, not far
distant from our encampment. When within three
miles of the place, we were welcomed by a large con-
course of the inhabitants coming to escort us. Al-
most the whole population turned out, saluting our
entry into the town with the firing of blunderbuses
and other firearms, and further gracing it with a most
discordant uproar of rickety harps, violins, and ban-
dolas, enough to have driven frantic the "Enraged
Musician " of Hogarth.

Mantecal was at one time quite a flourishing town,
notwithstanding the wars which ravaged it for many
successive years ; but since the great epidemic of 1832,
and subsequently, it has been well nigh depopulated,
while the few inhabitants who were not swept away
by the scourge, abandoned their homes. Thus the

260 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

once busy community became almost a dismal wil-
derness,

" Where at each step the stranger fears to wake
The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake."

At the time of our visit to Mantecal but few
houses remained standing, sad monuments of past
prosperity. We spent three days there, and the in-
habitants, hospitable in spite of their miserable con-
dition, entertained us to the utmost of their ability.
Not only did they provide the best accommodations
the village afforded, but treated us in addition to a
nightly fandango, in which people of all castes and
conditions joined. These festivities ended, we gladly
returned to our prairie home, the more especially that
the important duties we had there to perform would
probably delay our return to Maracay several weeks
longer ; also the rainy season was fast approaching
and each day we had warnings of the coming tempest
then brewing in the south.

"We continued to hunt those savannas while there
were any orejanos to brand, adding largely in the
meantime to our stock of reserved oxen for the mar-
kets of the upper country, which had already in-
creased to a considerable drove. We also made sev-
eral excursions to the neighboring cattle farms for
the purpose of separating from their herds all the
orejanos whose mothers bore our brand. Judging
from the number of calves there collected, and with-
out taking into consideration those yearly discarded
by the mothers, it was easy to perceive that the rev-
enues of those estates were greatly increased at our

MATA TOTUMO. 261

cost, their original stock being vastly inferior to ours.
In this manner many of the minor cattle farms en-
riched themselves at the expense of wealthy neighbors.

CHAPTER XIX.

MONKEY NOTIONS.

THE guamos were now in full bearing, their lus-
cious pods a grateful refreshment to the heated and
thirsty rambler through the woods. Monkeys and
macaws are particularly fond of this fruit ; and on
the tops of all the highest guamo- trees could be seen
family reunions of these chatterers apparently discuss-
ing the merits of the crop.

Of monkeys, the most conspicuous in the Llanos
are the araguato, or howling monkey (Simia ursina),
and the macliango (S. sajous), this last a small grey
monkey, very common in most parts of Venezuela.
On account of its wonderful agility and vivacious dis-
position the machango is much esteemed as a pet by
the inhabitants, many of whom keep one or more tied
to a post in the court-yard, where they enact to some
extent the role of buffoon to the whole family. They
are, however, very mischievous creatures, doing every
possible damage in the house the moment they are at
large ; but are especially destructive to cacao plan-

MONKEY NOTIONS. 263

tations and cornfields. When about to commence
their depredations in these, they usually assemble in
great numbers and exercise many precautions ; the
first step is to station several of their number as sen-
tinels upon the highest trees, or any elevated situation
overlooking the avenues leading to the plantation,
whence they warn the others of approaching danger.
The next proceeding is that of placing those of the fe-
males— which on account of their young are prevented
from assisting in the foray — in some safe retreat. The
precautions completed, they invest the cornfield in
earnest, pulling down the stocks and tearing off ears
of corn with astonishing expedition, chattering, laugh-
ing, and yelling all the while like a set of mischievous
boys in the absence of the dominie. When they have
accumulated a sufficient number of ears, they split
the husks, and tying them in pairs by means of an
ingenious knot peculiar to themselves, called in con-
sequence monkey-tie, they throw them across their
backs, and thus equipped hasten to hide their booty
in some safe nook difficult of discovery by the neglect-
ful majordomo, who not unfrequently conceals his
own defalcations in the yield of the plantation, by
ascribing the deficiency to the thieving monkeys. It
often happens that while these last are engaged in
their depredations, they are surprised by the owner
of the cornfield, who, eluding the vigilance of the
scouts, suddenly appears and pours a shower of shot
into their midst. Then with shrill cries of alarm the
whole troop scamper off helter-skelter, tumbling,
pitching or hobbling along on all fours, but never
dropping a particle of their plunder. The belief ob-

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tains in the Llanos, that when at length safe in their
haunts, the careless sentinels are arraigned before a
council of elders, who after due deliberation condemn
them, after which the guilty parties are tied to a tree
and soundly whipped.

No less remarkable is their ingenious method of
crossing torrents and other minor streams which they
often encounter in their ceaseless perambulations
through the forest. As among men, all cannot swim
with equal facility, so it is also with monkeys ; accor-
dingly the leaders of the troop, generally the strong-
est of the party, climb to the spreading branches of
some tree projecting over the stream ; one of them
then twists his tail firmly around a branch, and let-
ting his body hang, seizes upon the tail of the nearest
comrade, who in his turn performs the same operation
with the next, and so on until a sort of chain or living
pendulum is formed, which in obedience to the laws
of equilibrium oscillates slowly but constantly from
their combined efforts to reach the opposite bank.
This finally achieved, the last monkey secures him-
self to the most convenient tree. The others of the
chain, now disengaged from the tree at the opposite
side of the stream, wade through the water, each
helped by his neighbor, assisted likewise by the cur-
rent. Some are, however, occasionally drowned, the
last one in the chain especially, which circumstance
has probably given rise to the popular proverb, el
ultimo mono siempre se ahoga — the last monkey is
sure to be drowned. Sagacious as these animals un-
doubtedly are, it is often very easy to entrap them.
One of the simplest methods consists in cutting a

MONKEY NOTIONS. 265

number of holes in a gonrd barely large enough to
admit of squeezing id the monkey's hands. The
gourd thus prepared is filled with corn and secured
to the trunk of a tree, then shaken violently for a
time so as to attract the attention of the monkeys,
and a few grains of corn scattered in the neighbor-
hood of the trap. The gourd is in fact the dinner
bell of the monkeys, which no sooner hear the well
known sound, than they descend in great numbers
from their aerial homes, and each in turn seizing the
gourd, grasps through one of the holes a handful of
corn. But in vain do they struggle to withdraw their
hands without relinquishing the prize ; and at this
critical moment, the concealed author of their mishap
suddenly makes his appearance, and tying their hands
carries them off to his cottage in the woods.

More taciturn and retiring in his habits than the
preceding, the araguato — a large reddish monkey of
the ring-tail genus — exhibits none of those mischiev-
ous tricks which characterize the former, never ap-
proaching the haunts of man nor ravaging the fields
of the industrious farmer. His only food consists of
wild fruits, gathered as, with astonishing rapidity, he
springs from branch to branch. All the limbs of this
great monkey are admirably adapted to his roving
habits ; in these he is assisted very materially by his
long prehensile tail, which acts the part of a fifth
hand.

The roar of the araguato is so extraordinary, that
persons who hear it for the first time invariably ima-
gine it that of the jaguar. I think I may assert with-
out fear of mistake, that it can be heard at the dis-

12

266 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tance of three miles, especially in damp and cloudy
weather. " This most striking of all animal voices is
heard occasionally at sunrise and sunset, and some-
times in the heat of the day, but more frequently
durng the darkness of night. When near, the roar
is terrific ; a naturalist has compared it to the tem-
pest howling through rocky caverns. It is a voice so
unearthly that, heard unexpectedly for the first time,
it would fill the mind with the most melancholy fore-
bodings/' *

" The Indians pretend," observes Humboldt, that
when the araguatos fill the forest with their howl-
ings, there is always one that chants as leader
to the chorus. The observation is pretty accurate.
During a long interval one solitary and strong voice
is generally distinguished, till its place is taken by
another voice of a different pitch. We may ob-
serve from time to time the same instinct of imita-
tion among frogs, and almost all animals which live
together and exert their voices in union. The mis-
sionaries further assert that when a female among
the araguatos is on the point of bringing forth, the
choir suspends its bowlings till the moment of the
birth of the young. I could not myself judge of the
accuracy of this assertion; but I do not believe it to
be entirely unfounded. I have observed that when
an extraordinary incident — the moans, for instance,
of a wounded araguato — fixed the attention of the
band, the howlings were for some minutes suspended.

* Gosse : The Romance of Natural History.

MONKEY NOTIONS. 267

The face of this singular monkey is nearly concealed
by a sandy, bushy beard, extending below and project-
ing considerably beyond his chin, giving him a very
dignified appearance. So striking is their resem-
blance to the human species, that once, after having
shot one, I almost felt as though I had committed a
murder. When I raised the poor creature from the
ground upon which he had fallen, his large grey eyes
wero bathed in tears, and every feature expressed the
deepest agony. Casting upon me a most eloquent
look of reproach, he endeavored to push me aside ;
but too much enfeebled by his wound, lay down and
calmly resigned himself to the scrutinizing gaze of
my English companions, who discussed and disputed
about the division of his still panting body — one
wanting the skin for a smoking cap and the drum of
the throat for the bowl of his pipe, while the other
would be contented with nothing less than the whole
carcass. For my own part, I only desired to get out
of sight of the dying creature ; and shouldering my
gun, departed in a mood which determined me never
again to lift my hand against these innocent wild men
of the woods.

South America may be said to be, par excellence,
the home of the monkey tribe. Besides the forego-
ing, the great forest south of the pampas of Apure is
filled with the cries, yells, and roarings by night and
day — for some are nocturnal and others diurnal — of
countless troops of the various families of these quad-
rumana, roaming through it, from the mysterious
Salvoje (supposed by many to be a great and power-
ful monkey, who, Gorilla-like, seizes upon defenceless

268 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

women and carries them off to some inaccessible tree
in the forest), down to the tiny marmoset, not larger
than a flying-squirrel, but all possessing more or less
that degree of intelligence and cunning so nearly akin
to human instinct. Some are white-faced, with the
rest of the body black ; others black-faced, forming
a curious contrast with a thick head of hair perfectly
white. Bates observed on the Upper Amazon a very
rare species with a scarlet face, making the animal
look pretty much like an Indian bedaubed with ar-
natto,* as is the practice of the aborigines in a wild
state. Some have blue noses ; others a dark ring
around the eyes, giving the creature a most ludicrous
appearance, as if adorned with a pair of spectacles.

In the same region is found another curious genus
of monkeys, namely, the owl-faced night apes3 de-
scribed by Bates and Humboldt as being of small
size, the body about a foot long and the tail fourteen
inches, and are thickly clothed with soft, grey, and
brown hair, similar in substance to that of the rabbit.
They sleep all day long in hollow trees, and come
forth to prey on insects, and eat fruits, only in the
night. Their physiognomy reminds one of an owl, or
tiger-cat ; the face is round and encircled by a ruff
of whitish fur. Bates had one of these animals
given him by a compadre, as a present from his new-
ly-baptized godson, and he describes it as being a
great favorite with every one, from the cleanliness of
its habits and the prettiness of its features and ways ;

* The pulpy covering of the seeds of Bixa orellana.

MONKEY NOTIONS. 269

and the Municipal Judge of Ega, Don Carlos Mariana,
had another species of the same genus, which was
most amusingly tame, delighting to be caressed by all
persons who came into the house, and at night sleep-
ing with his master in his own hammock, and nestling
in his bosom half the day as he lay reading.

A very striking feature of most South American
monkeys is the strong resemblance they bear to the
Indian race, just as those of Africa resemble the negro,
and those of the Indian Archipelago the Malay race
of men. Some of them look so much like Indians,
that one cannot help imagining there exists a near
relationship between these dwellers of the forest. The
capuchin of the Orinoco, which Waterton has made
so celebrated, under the vague appellation of non-
descript, and the titi of the same locality, may be
mentioned as exceptions to the rule, the former on
account of a long, bushy beard, and soft, glossy black
head of hair, nicely parted in the middle, like a re-
fined exquisite, and the latter with its finely-modelled
head and most expressive features, which added to a
high degree of intelligence and sprightly restlessness
possessed by the little creature, make it a favorite
pet, with ladies especially, when reduced to domestic
life. The titi is a medium-sized monkey, with hair of
a golden yellow ; and what adds to its attraction as
a pet, is its cleanly habits, so unlike those of its con-
geners, washing its hands whenever it comes near
water, which makes them look at all times like those
of a well-nursed child. But, woe to the elegantly
furnished boudoir, if it should contrive to get loose,

270 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

which it often does in spite of precautions, for it will
prove a perfect enfant terrible, amongst the choicest
trinkets of feminine adornment, smashing everything
within its reach, and examining into every nook and
corner of the wardrobe with perfect infantile curiosity.
On the other hand, it will completely rid the house of
spiders and other like vermin, for which tropical cli-
mates are famous, not even sparing the favorite song-
ster in its cage, for it is quite omnivorous in its tastes.
Humboldt relates of one he kept in his canoe, during
his tedious exploration of these rivers, that it would
take particular pleasure in looking over the plates of
a work on Natural History, which the great philosopher
used to turn over occasionally for his own and his pet's
amusement ; sitting itself on the lap of its master, it
would look intently on the figures of the various ani-
mals with as much interest as a child would evince,
under like circumstances, but without betraying any
especial emotion, until it came to the plate represent-
ing the insects. Although the engravings were not
colored, the titi would now advance its little hand in
the hope of catching a spider, a grasshopper, or a
wasp, whenever it perceived one of these insects, of
which it is particularly fond. It remained perfectly
indifferent when it was shown engravings of skele-
tons or heads of mammiferous animals. " ~No other
monkey," adds Humboldt, " has so much the phys-
iognomy of a child as the titi ; there is the same ex-
pression of innocence, the same playful smile, the
same rapidity in the transition from joy to sorrow.
Its large, handsome eyes are instantly filled with

MONKEY NOTIONS. 271

tears when it is seized with fear." Even in the wild
state, the titi evinces a degree of cunning seldom
found in others of its class. An instance of this is
shown in the manner in which it robs the bee colony
not only of its rich stores of sweet honey, but also of
its industrious tenants ; stationing itself at the mouth
of the beehive — usually in the hollow branch of some
tree in the forest — the titi catches and eats up every
member of the busy colony as they go in and out on
their laborious errands. When no more insects can
be obtained, and knowing instinctively that within
that mysterious abode is to be found something
sweeter still, the little imp diligently commences to
dig into the aperture until a passage wide enough for
tho hand is made, and then commences the work of
destruction upon grubs and honey-combs. Should
these be placed too far down the opening to be reach-
ed with the hand, the titi introduces its tail — which is
considerably longer than its arms — into the deposit of
honey, and withdrawing it, well bedaubed with the
coveted prize, commences to enjoy it with great gusto.

Isidore Geoffrey St. Hilaire relates of another in-
dividual of this genus, that " it distinguished between
different objects depicted on an engraving. M. Aud-
ouin showed it the portraits of a cat and a wasp ; at
these it became very much terrified ; whereas, at the
sight of a figure of a grasshopper or beetle, it precipi-
tated itself on the picture, as if to seize the objects
there represented."

Bates mentions another rare species of the same
genus, first described by Humboldt, which was, if*pos-

272 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

sible, more playful and intelligent than any of the
preceding. " This rare and beautiful little monkey is
only seven inches in length, exclusive of the tail. It
is named leoninus,on account of the long brown mane
which depends from the neck, arid which gives it very
much the appearance of a diminutive lion. In the
house where it was kept it was familiar with every
one ; its greatest pleasure seemed to be to climb about
the bodies of different persons who entered. The
first time I went in, it ran across the room straight-
way to the chair on which I had sat down, and
climbed up to my shoulder ; arrived there, it turned
round and looked into my face, showing its little
teeth, and chattering as though it would say, ' Well,
and how do you do ? ' It showed more affection
toward its master than toward strangers, and would
climb up to his head a dozen times in the course of
an hour, making a great show every time of searching
there for certain animalcula."

The same writer describes the ingenious mode of
obtaining live specimens, as practised by Indian hun-
ters. " The mother, as in other species of the monkey
order, carries her young on her back. Individuals are
obtained alive by shooting them with the blow-pipe
and arrows tipped with diluted urari poison. They
run a considerable distance after being pierced, and it
requires an experienced hunter to track them. He
is considered the most expert who can keep pace with
a wounded one, and catch it in his arms when it falls
exhausted. A pinch of salt, the antidote to the poison,
is then put in its mouth, and the creature revives."

MONKEY NOTIONS. 273

As I write this in the quiet seclusion of the coun-
try, I hear among the trees surrounding one of the
finest mansions in Connecticut, the twittering chatter
of another little monkey, or marmoset, a titi of the
coast of Cartagena, which I procured from hence not
long ago. It is quite small, of a reddish-brown color,
with a face resembling more an African negro (for it
is jet black) than the aborigines of the opposite
coast. A thick woolly coat of white hair covers its
head, so that at a distance the little creature looks as
if ornamented with a cap of snow-white feathers.
Enjoying with myself the freedom of the hospitable
mansion, it is allowed to roam at pleasure among the
branches of the trees, but as the sun goes down, it
invariably seeks the comforts of its bed, prepared by
its kind mistress, inside a market-basket in her own
room. Monito — this is its name — is an early riser,
which makes it rather inconvenient for the other in-
mates of the room ; for, although the windows are
left open through the night, it will not stir until its
breakfast has been placed before the little scamp, who,
in the meantime, keeps such squealing and twittering
as to rouse "Nini" and her mamma. Its hunger
satisfied, it bounds away to the tree-tops, leaping
from branch to branch with astonishing agility, which
never fails to attract a crowd of squirrels, which,
mistaking it for one of their tribe, run towards the
stranger ; but no sooner do they perceive the jetty
phyz and snowy locks of Don Monito, than, with one
yell of astonishment, and the utmost horror depicted

in their countenance, they scamper off to a respecta-
12*

274: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

"ble distance. Then follows a sort of inquiring colloquy
between both parties, all chatting at the same time,
and making the air resound all the while with the
chirping palaver. It does not get beyond this, how-
ever, for, at the first advance made on either side, one
of the parties, or both, scamper off ingloriously, thus
verifying the saying — -

" He who fights and runs away
Lives to fight another day."

Not satisfied with the abundant fare of spiders
caught around the roof, Monito comes regularly to
the house at certain hours, to be fed on more dainty
food, consisting of bits of sugar, cake, and delicious
grapes, fresh from the grapery, which the thought-
ful ladies of the mansion have in readiness for their
guest. At times it pays a visit to the laundress, at
her establishment, for whom it has evinced a strong
attachment, owing, I suspect, to the fact that said
dame invariably treats the favorite to a good slice of
bread and butter, of which it seems to be very fond
also. Selecting a comfortable place in some corner of
the room, it spends an hour or so chatting to the
worthy laundress all the while in a language only in-
telligible to itself. I fear, however, that the country
air of a northern climate does not quite agree with
the little South- American, for it has been observed,
at times, in the morning, shaking from head to foot,
and seeking some convenient place on the roof of the
piazza, where it can have the full benefit of the sun's
rays, a sure sign of a coming attack of chills and fever.

MONKEY NOTIONS. 275

This circumstance, and the fact of its having become
more irritable and morose than usual, has induced me
to procure, from a friend in town, another small mon-
key, in whose company it came from South America,
although of a different species, to see if the presence
of its former associate will restore its spirits ; but to
no purpose, for, after a fair trial, we find that the at-
tentions of this last, which is a most restless and mis-
chievous creature, pulling the invalid's tail and silvery
tufts of hair, whenever they are brought together, in-
stead of proving a comfort to Monito, throws it into
violent fits.

The monkey in question is the cari-blanco, white-
faced, of the Eiver Sinu, a higher grade of ape than
the marmosets, and is, in consequence, one of the
most intelligent individuals of the family. It is really
entertaining to see such a small creature aping child-
hood so well as to amuse itself and the rest of the
family whose hospitality it enjoys, with a doll and
some marbles which it stole from the baby ; and one
of the ladies having shown it a musical toy, which
she blew to attract its notice, the mimicking crea-
ture at once snatched the toy from her hand, and
immediately applied it to its mouth, endeavoring to
produce the same sounds, although without effect ;
whereupon it tried a like experiment on the doll —
which it carries constantly under its arm — but with
no better results. Another source of amusement is
derived from a kitten belonging to the baby, the sight
of which produced at first as much astonishment and
curiosity as the interview between Monito and the

276 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

squirrels brought about. Now they are as good friends
as if they had known each other a lifetime ; so much
so that the baby finds it difficult to separate her pussy
from the dreaded monkey, which ' ' Nini " abominates
ever since Monito bit her badly, for want of experi-
ence on her part in dealing with these spiteful crea-
tures.

It is a fact worthy of notice, that most monkeys,
especially those of a higher grade, manifest on all oc-
casions a strong attachment to young animals, espe-
cially puppies and kittens, caressing and handling
them with the same care that a human being bestows
on the young of their own kind. I once obtained, in
Costa Kica, a large female monkey of the ring-tail
species, which, in intelligence and monerias (monkey
tricks) surpassed any creature of this description I
have yet seen or heard of ; so much so that Herr Mtil-
ler, a German baker of San Jose, who owned the pet,
had given her the name of " Panchita," or Little
Frances ; and so captivated was I too by Miss Pan-
chita, that I at once entered into negotiations with
the baker for her purchase. But of this more here-
after in the Second Series of these sketches.

/Well, said Panchita was, like the rest of her class,
particularly fond of puppies ; but not possessing suf-
ficient discrimination to distinguish between the ages
of animals, and judging of this only through their
size, she seized, on one occasion, a small poodle, which
happened to pass near her, mistaking it for a puppy,
and pressing it to her breast with appropriate demon-
strations of motherly solicitude, endeavored to induce

MONKEY NOTIONS. 2Y7

the dog to avail itself of the proffered donation ; but
a bite from the ungrateful chap warned the would-be
nurse of the dangers arising from too close an inti-
macy with strangers. Poor Panchita ! Having brought
her along with me to New York, and placed her in
Barnum's celebrated boarding-sehool for dumb beasts
from all parts of the world, she shared the fate of the
" Happy Family " during the disastrous fire which
consumed that renowned establishment.

As an instance of the affection and intelligence
displayed by these singular creatures, I will mention
here another South American monkey, from the Up-
per Amazon river, of which the indefatigable collector
of natural history, Mr. Bates, says, alluding to one
possessed by a neighbor of his at Ega : " My friend
was a tailor, and the little pet used to spend the
greater part of the day seated on his shoulder, while
he was at work on his board. It showed, neverthe-
less, great dislike to strangers, and was not on good
terms with any other member of my friend's house-
hold than himself, I saw no monkey that showed so
strong a personal attachment as this gentle, timid,
silent little creature. The eager and passionate Cebi
seem to take the lead of all South American monkeys
in intelligence and docility, and the Coaita has per-
haps the most gentle and impressive disposition ; but
the Parauacii, although a dull, cheerless animal, ex-
cels all in this quality of capacity of attachment to
individuals of our own species. It is not wanting in
intelligence as well as moral goodness, proof of which
was furnished one day by an act of our little pet. My

278 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

neighbor had quitted his house in the morning, with-
out taking Parauacu with him, and the little creature
having missed its friend, and concluded, as it seemed,
that he would be sure to come to me, both being in
the habit of paying me a daily visit together, came
straight to my dwelling, taking a short cut over gar-
dens, trees, and thickets, instead of going the round-
about way of the street. It had never done this, be-
fore, and we knew the route it had taken only from a
neighbor having watched its movements. On arriving
at my house, and not finding its master, it climbed to
the top of my table, and sat with an air of quiet resig-
nation waiting for him. Shortly afterwards my friend
entered, and the gladdened pet then jumped to its
usual perch on his shoulder."

I will conclude this chapter — already, I fear, too
long — with some further remarks respecting the Sal-
vaje, or " Wild Man of America/' as it is called by those
who, to this day, believe that such nondescript — for no
one seems to have ever seen it , except the footprints —
exists in the wilds of Venezuela. Both Father G-umilla
and Humboldt allude to the belief entertained by the
people of those regions in the existence of a great an-
thropoid ape, which was reputed to build huts, carry
off women, and devour jealous husbands. It is curi-
ous, however, to see how these two great expounders
of nature's wonders endeavor to solve the mystery.
While the philosopher of the nineteenth century ex-
plains the " fable," as he calls it, by suggesting the
existence in these wilds of " one of those large bears,
the footprints of which resemble those of man, and

MONKEY NOTIONS. 279

which are believed to carry off women/' the devout
philosopher of nearly two centuries ago boldly ascribes
the doings of the dreaded creature to no other individ-
ual than the Devil himself, ever anxious to do all pos-
sible mischief among Christians, especially those of
the newly-organized missions of the Upper Orinoco
and Meta rivers ; in proof of this the good missionary
father tells us that, " On one occasion, the infernal
voice was distinctly heard by Capt. Don Domingo Zor-
rilla, a native of Kioja, in Spain, exhorting, from the
top of a palm tree, the Gentile Indians, who were
ready to come out of the forest and become good
Christians, not to do it." And, adds the credulous
historian : " Alarmed with this terrific noise, the
valiant captain inquired of the Christian cacique who
accompanied him, from whence proceeded those fright-
ful sounds ? to which the cacique replied, that these
were the utterances of the Devil, which the captain
believed to be true, so great was the internal horror
which he felt ; and I too believed it, by the faith I
had in the great veracity of said captain, and other
unmistakable proofs I perceived afterwards at the
distance of only two leagues from the river Ubocd, all
of which happened on the 23d of February, 1716."

Notwithstanding the strong faith entertained by
the narrator on the " great veracity of the valiant
captain," I am of opinion that the roar of a well-
organized band of araguatos was mistaken on this
occasion for the utterances of his Infernal Majesty.

Still, the story of the Salvaje is not altogether
discredited, even by scientific men of high standing ;

280 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

among the latter I may mention the accomplished
author of the " Romance of Natural History/' who
not only questions the authority of Humholdt in
denying the existence of a great anthropomorphous
monkey in America, but boldly comes in support of
those who believe in this possible phenomena. I quote
his words : " But it might be permitted, in return, to
ask what " large bear " is known to inhabit Venezue-
la ; and whether it is true that bears' footsteps have
a signal resemblance to those of men ; and that bears
especially attack women. Is not such a bear in South
America quite as gratuitous as the monkey himself ?
And, since species of quadrumana are characteristic
of the forests of that region, may it not be possible
that some one rivalling man in stature and strength,
may there exist, as well as in Africa and the Oriental
Archipelago ? The mighty gorilla himself has only
just been introduced to us." *

* Gosse: The Komance of Natural History — First Series, p. 281.

CHAPTEK XX.

AMONG THE CROCODILES.

HAVING by this time completed our arrangements
at Mata Totumo, we broke up our camp on the 15th
of March and departed for Los Laureles, the ancient
site of another cattle farm, now quite deserted, on the
banks of the river Matiyure.

"We found the house in ruins, and only a few re-
maining posts marking the boundary of the former
corrals. The first duty, therefore, was that of repair-
ing the fences, an operation which necessitated sev-
eral days' hard labor. Meanwhile I found much en-
joyment in exploring the woody banks of the river,
the wildness of whose aspect had for me a peculiar
charm. They were my daily resort, where, encom-
passed by the glorious solitude, I essayed to picture
for others those lovely scenes which still perfume the
shrine of memory in all their dewy freshness. To one
who loves " the cool sequestered haunts of Nature,"
no spot could be more charming, nothing more in-
spiring than to recline under the venerable shade of
some wide-branched guamo uplooking to the many-

282 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tinted clouds as they sweep in solemn majesty be1
neath the blue veil of heaven, and seem to melt into
the tree tops in the distance — trees whose gigantic
height and size, wall with magnificent vegetation the
steep banks rising on either side of the river, mirrored
in its tranquil surface. The harsh scream of the
heron, or the ominous hootings of the tiger-owl, alone
wake the echoes where else

" All things are calm, and fair, aud passive— Earth
Looks as if lulled upon an angel's lap
Into a breathless, dewy sleep."

Yet is this beautiful river celebrated for the num-
ber and size of its crocodiles. As I sat sketching on
the banks, I could perceive them gliding slcwly under
the still waters, the upper part of the head alone
visible, and seeming to watch me with an evil eye.
The beach being strewn with their egg shells, I con-
cluded this to be a favorite resort with them during
the breeding season. The female lays about forty
eggs in a hole which she digs in the sand, leaving to
the hot sun the care of hatching them. These eggs,
twice as large as those of the turkey, are considered a
great delicacy by the Indians and jaguars, who fre-
quently purloin them before they are hatched.

The caricari is another great enemy of young croc-
odiles, attacking them as they come out of the shell.
After they betake themselves to the water, the older
ones, prompted no doubt by motives of family pride
to keep them within their own circle, swallow these
tender members, thus preventing all other intimacies.
Notwithstanding this admirable provision of Divine

AMONG THE CROCODILES. 283

Wisdom, and a constant war maintained by man and
beast against them, they are so numerous in some
charcos of the river that, if stationary, their bodies

would completely bridge its surface from bank to
bank.

Despite their great voracity, the mother exhibits
some degree of tenderness toward her offspring. Pos-
sessed, in this case, of an instinct almost infallible,
she returns at a period when incubation is completed,
and assists her young in extricating themselves from
the shell. Unlike the eggs of birds, crocodiles' eggs
are soft and pliable as those of the turtle, yielding,
when handled, to the pressure of the fingers, yet so
tough, that it is difficult to break them, and in ap-
pearance resembling white parchment. At the very
moment of liberation, the young crocodiles display
their savage nature in a wonderful degree, biting at
every object within reach ; also the same vicious pro-
pensity is exhibited by those extricated even before
the completion of incubation. I was once greatly
amused in watching a struggle between two caricaris

284: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

and one of these youngsters not larger than a good-
sized lizard. Each time the birds made a dash at
him, this little saurian, grunting savagely, darted for-
ward with wide-open jaws, looking for all the world
like a young dragon. During ten minutes the strug-
gle continued without decided advantage on either
side, when one of the assailants, changing his tactics,
suddenly seized the crocodile by the neck with his
sharp claws and soared triumphantly with him into
high air. There loosing his hold, the bird followed
his descent with wonderful rapidity, prepared, when
he reached the ground, to repeat the blow ; but
already half stunned, the victim soon yielded to su-
perior cunning.

When the savannas are overflowed by the swollen
rivers, these carnivorous and malicious reptiles spread
themselves over the face of the country, committing
great havoc among young animals. So destructive
had they proved to the calves and foals on this estate,
that the owner on one occasion offered a reward of
half a dollar a head for every crocodile killed upon his
lands, it being sufficient for the claimant to produce,
in evidence of success, the two great tusks of the
upper jaws. The result of this ukase was, that before
the expiration of a month, more than four hundred
crocodiles had been destroyed ; yet no sensible dimi-
nution was observable, neither did the persevering
dragonade against them quench in the least their
boldness. This expedient proving useless, they had
been suffered to remain unmolested until our arrival
at Los Laureles, when we determined to exterminate
those at least which infested that pass of the river

AMONG THE CROCODILES. 285

where we performed our daily ablutions and watered
the horses. Accordingly, one day a party of us, well
provided with every necessary, started for a bend of
the river where the water appeared to be very still
and deep. None of the usual angling implements
were required in this sport ; we used only a strong
lazo and a hoop about three feet in diameter made
from a light vine common on the banks of these
rivers. Around this hoop the fresh lungs of a bul-
lock, cut into thin strips, were twisted and securely
fastened. The running noose of thexlazo was then
laid over the bait and tied there with tendrils from
the same vine. All being ready, this simple decoy
was launched into the middle of the stream, we re-
taining on shore the other end of the lazo. Aroused
by the splash, two large crocodiles soon appeared and
rushed for the bait with open jaws. The successful
one, in his eagerness to escape with his prize, burst
the slender vines that secured the noose to the hoop,
which last projected beyond his snout, and the noose
on its recoil sliding over, firmly lazoed his upper jaw.
With shouts of exultation we hastened to the assist-
ance of the man who held the lazo, seeing him unable
to cope with the monster, more than a match for half
a dozen men. By our united efforts we finally suc-
ceeded in dragging him to within a few feet of the
embankment, when, catching sight of our earnest
faces watching him over the cliff, he tossed up his
head with such sudden violence as to pull the thong
through our hands to its full length, and retreated in
triumph to the middle of the stream. The tough
hide, however, from which the thong was twisted,

286 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

proved equal to the emergency, and with one more
strenuous effort we succeeded in landing him upon
the beach, while

" Le flot qui 1'apporta, recule epouvante."

Some of us who never before had so near a view
of these vicious creatures, were astonished at its size
and strength, and our Esculapius, assuming an appear-
ance of bravery, approached among the first to con-
template the vanquished foe, but evidently quaking
with apprehension of the huge tusks before him. His
terror at length proving stronger than the dread of
his companions' gibes, he seized the lazo, tugging
with such desperate energy to close the fearful chasm
that the thong slipped from his hands, he lost his
balance, and the next moment found himself lying
almost within reach of the still open jaws. From
these, notwithstanding a considerable corporeal im-
pediment, he escaped by springing with the agility of
a cat up the embankment, where he remained, per-
haps to ascertain whether the poet's statement that
" distance lends enchantment to the view," was cor-
rect by the crocodile case before him. At length the
object of his regards almost ceased struggling, sure
sign that his strength was failing ; then with one
more pull we hauled him partially out of water, but
no power could force him entirely therefrom, as each
time on reaching the bank he braced his fore feet with
unconquerable strength against it, so forcing himself
back into the stream. In this predicament we had no
other resource than to despatch him, and two or three
sharp blows of a hatchet administered by the roguish

AMONG THE CROCODILES.

Boseliano, severed the upper jaw, with its beautiful
row of teeth, from the head, a surgical operation per-
formed under the supervision of our eminent Escula-
pius. The patient expired — no doubt to the Doctor's
relief — riot on his hands, and the " subject " was
abandoned to the myriads of caribes which, although
their teeth could produce little impression upon his
tough cuirass, feasted with avidity on his blood so
long as it flowed from his mutilated head.

We prepared a large supply of bait in like manner
to the former, all of which was seized by the hungry
crocodiles with the same fatal results to them. In the
short space of three hours we succeeded in killing
six large ones, and could no doubt have destroyed a
greater number, had not the lazo been gnawed
through by caribes, that pest of all rivers in this
region.

The Indians of the Orinoco river, where the croc-
odiles are said to be still larger and more savage, if
possible, than those of its tributary streams, make use
of other devices for ridd'ng themselves of those at least
that infest the places frequented by them. One of
these contrivances is as novel as most of the produc-
tions of their fertile imaginations are for ministering
to their wants, and consists in shooting at the mon-
sters' eyes arrows tipped with a wild cane said to be
very poisonous to crocodiles, so much so that a few
minutes after they are seen floating on the water quite
dead. Another device, equally effective, consists in
securing a strong rope, or lazo, to the middle of a short
but stout stick of hard wood, which is then covered up
with a large fish or piece of meat, and thrown in the

288 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

water : not many minutes elapse before the crocodile
seizes and swallows the bait, stake and all, when it is
quickly hauled on shore by means of the lazo in the
hands of the Indians.

By way of sport, these people avail themselves of
the same artifice to torear, as they call it, a crocodile
on shore when sunning itself, but this time without
the bait, as the man alone is sufficient allurement to
rouse the monster's appetite, especially if it is a man-
eater (cebado), the only improvement made on the
stake being that of sharpening both ends of it. The
Indian now seizes the stick by the middle, and fear-
lessly approaches the crocodile, which at once makes a
dash at its antagonist with its jaws wide open ; but
the toreador easily evades the onset by stepping aside
a little, as the reptile, on account of the configuration
of its spine, cannot turn round upon him, except after
describing a long circle ; a second and a third onset
are equally unsuccessful, as the sportsman purposely
avoids the collision by moving off when the animal
comes up close to him. Having by this time proved
his dexterity the Indian gives it the coup de grace
by plunging the stick in a vertical position into the
ghastly jaws of the fierce monster, which, feeling con-
fident of crushing its enemy this time between its
powerful tusks, shuts them with a crash which only
assists in forcing both ends of the stake into the up-
per and lower jaws ; thus transfixed, the once terror
of the river now becomes the sport of the Indian
boys, who eagerly seize upon the thong, and ignomin-
iously drag the reptile powerless over the sand.

Our men secured a large supply of fat from the

AMONG THE CROCODILES. 289

intestinal membrane of the crocodiles : a sovereign
remedy for bruises and cutaneous diseases among
horses. By exposing this fat to the sun, in horns
slightly punctured at the end, a fine oil equal to that
of the whale, is obtained by percolation and collected
in basins placed under the horns.

Selecting the jaws of the dead crocodiles contain-
ing the finest tusks, we distributed the latter among
our friends for tinder boxes and amulets. It is uni-
versally believed throughout the Llanos that the
tusks, when worn next the flesh of man or beast, will
preserve the wearer from the poison of snakes, espe-
cially if obtained on Good Friday. For this reason
the smaller ones, set in gold or silver, are worn sus-
pended from the rosaries which form one of the prin-
cipal ornaments' of the people in those parts. It is
further believed that rings made of the same material
will apprise the wearer, of poison mixed in any
draught by causing an instantaneous effervescence
of the liquid. The supposed efficacy of these poten-
tial talismans was once peculiarly tested in our own
camp.

Among the few luxuries carried by our commis-
sariat into the Llanos was a basket of champagne,
which was reserved for state occasions. One after-
noon, while almost every person was enjoying his
siesta, the temptation seized one of our men to search
for aguardiente among ihepetacas. His good fortune
discovered to him our little treasure of champagne,
and grabbing a bottle he at once commenced cutting
with his dagger the wires that secured the cork. Up
this flew at last with a loud report, which broke the

290 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

dead silence of the camp and started to their feet
more than one drowsy slumberer.

Our thief, seeing the profuse effervescence gushing
out with great force, endeavored at first to arrest it
by clapping his hands over the mouth of the bottle ;
but suddenly recollecting that he had on one of those
mysterious tusk-rings, the suspicion flashed to his
mind of poison intended for el amo, the master ; and
when in addition to this the bewildered knave per-
ceived that apparently the more he endeavored to
confine the liquid, so much more it frothed and bub-
bled, he was overpowered with terror, shrieking out
in an ecstasy of horror, " Ave Maria Purisima !
Help ! Help ! cristianos / this aguardiente must bo
poisoned, or else the devil is in it."

On hearing these cries, every on& sprang from his
hammock, imagining the camp attacked by a band
of malhechores, and the would-be thief was thus
caught in the very act.

As he was, however, out of his wits with fright,
he escaped with only a mild reprimand, the more
especially that we enjoyed several hearty laughs at
his expense. Futile were our efforts at convincing
the frightened fellow that champagne was very good
drink ; he evidently distrusted all our assertions.
Some was then poured out and drank, and the bottle
passed round ; but when it came to his turn, he per-
sistently refused to touch it. On being asked whether
his surprise and repugnance arose from seeing the
liquid rushing out of the bottle, his reply was, " Oh,
no, Senores ; I am not surprised to see it coming out,
but how the devil did it get in ? "

AMONG THE CROCODILES. 291

"With the intention of finishing a sketch of one of
the crocodiles, I next day revisited the battle field,
and to my surprise discovered the absence of one of
the dead bodies ; but presently perceived the mailed
carcass floating at some distance on the water. I was
for some time at a loss to discover what had occa-
sioned his change of position, and I finally concluded
that its comrades must have given him honorable in-
terment in the deep. Desiring to ascertain, if pos-
sible, the facts of the case, I determined to conceal
myself near by and keep close watch. I had been in
hiding only a few moments when at least half a
dozen crocodiles approached the deceased, not, as I
had imagined, to mourn his loss, but to feast upon
the many fish in their turn gorging themselves upon
the body. Then, almost to my horror, I beheld these
monster insatiates rend in pieces and devour the mel-
ancholy remains of the dear defunct with grunts of
revolting satisfaction. Nor did I perceive in this case
any of those " crocodile tears " with which travellers
tell us it is their hypocritical habit to bedew the head
of a human victim. It is said that when they have
devoured a man, finding themselves unable to swal-
low his head, they convey it to some secluded spot
on the river banks, there to weep over and bewail
their inability with cries which make night hideous.

The size and appearance of crocodiles must be
sometimes most extraordinary, if we may credit our
adventurous friend B., who boasted so intimate an
acquaintance with their habits, that one could easily
imagine such familiarity might breed contempt.
Judge, O reader, if I speak not truly.

292 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

He related that one day, having labored success-
fully until noon in his piscatory pursuit, overcome
by fatigue and the intense heat of a tropical sun, he
turned his longing eyes toward shore in search of
some friendly shelter ; but perceiving that, between
him and the only copse of trees which relieved the
glaring scene, there stretched a dreary waste of burn-
ing sand, he had not courage to traverse, even to reach
so tempting a goal — he sought a refuge more acces-
sible. This to his great joy he just then discovered in
the form of what appeared to be the wreck of an old
canoe thrown on its side near the water's edge. Here
was a cool retreat wherein to enjoy his siesta ; so
hastening toward it, his satisfaction was complete on
finding it sufficiently capacious to admit of slinging
to the protruding ribs his cfainchorro, or grass ham-
mock, which, with his guitar and gourd of aguar-
diente, were his inseparable companions. Refreshing
himself with a good pull at the gourd, and stretching
himself in his hammock, he soon slept the profound
sleep of the weary. He awoke to find himself envel-
oped in a darkness which he might have supposed
that of midnight, but that it was unrelieved by moon
or friendly star. Completely bewildered, he sought
a clew to this dark mystery by moving forward with
cautious steps and extended hands, uncertain into
what horror his next movement might betray him,
when his surprised attention was attracted, first to
the spongy nature of the ground, then to the clammy
yet warm and sticky walls that on nil sides encoun-
tered his extended fingers. The discovery of these
facts was accompanied by the very unpleasant con-

AMONG THE CROCODILES. £93

viction that lie had mistaken the open jaws of some
sleeping crocodile for an old bongo. However, with
his recovery from the first shock of surprise returned
the stoicism so characteristic of his race, which was
the more entirely reinstated by finding his well-filled
gourd with his beloved guitar lying near. Notwith-
standing, however, a reviving draught from the for-
mer, he soon became conscious of a void in his inter-
nal economy, which he at once determined to fill at
Mr. Crocodile's expense ; thereupon drawing his
knife, he without the least compunction made a meal
from the tenderest morsels within reach. And so
eating, drinking, sleeping and tuning his diminutive
guitar to the cheering strains of some lively ballad of
the Llanos, he remained for days, he knew not how
many, an uncomplaining prisoner within those slimy
walls. At length, while mournfully draining the last
remaining drop within his faithful gourd, his dungeon
walls were suddenly made visible to him by a faint
ray of light which penetrated his very soul with the
desire once more to behold its source. Snatching at
the dear companions of his imprisonment, without
another moment's delay he rushed for the opening
that admitted the life-giving ray, and discovered to
his delighted surprise that his jailer, having deserted
the water for a siesta upon the sands — which he recol-
lected was the occasional habit of these monsters —
had left wide-open his prison doors. These he lost
no time in passing, seizing with firm hand as he flew,
his chinchorro, still suspended from the crocodile's
tusks he had so almost fatally mistaken for the ribs
of an old canoe.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE CIMAEEONEBA.

WE had been apprised that between a great bend
of the river Matiyure — forming the southern bound-
ary of our savannas — and an extensive flat overgrown
with thorny bushes, there existed what the Llaneros
call a cimarronera, or great hiding place for cattle,
which, owing to the impenetrable nature of the jun-
gle, had from time immemorial baffled the efforts of
every majordomo who had hunted these savannas.
Further we had ascertained that the cattle were there
as numerous as a colony of ants ; but so savage and
shy, as to never venture from their wild sanctuary.
Thither our efforts were to be directed, not only on
account of the good harvest in store, but also for the
purpose of breaking up, if possible, that den of runa-
ways which, if left unmolested, might in time become
a serious obstacle in the way of reducing those wild
herds to at least a partial submission.

The corrals, which I trust the patient reader has
not forgotten we were in process of building, being
now ready, we commenced preparations for a descent

THE CIMARRONERA. 295

upon the fierce hordes of that neglected section. Mes-
sengers were therefore despatched to the people of
Caucagua, an adjacent cattle farm, apprising them of
our intention, and with the dawn of day more than
an hundred hunters were assembled on the spot.
Among them were some of the best enlazadores that
the country could produce, all of whom, like the val-
iant Pentapolin — chosen model of the hero of La
Mancha — had his right arm bared to the shoulder
that the wide sleeve of the Llanero shirt might not
interfere with the management of the lazo.

As soon as the sun was high enough to light us
through the bushes, a detachment of hunters pene-
trated the bristling maze of thorny acacias, and suc-
ceeded in driving out into the open savannas so large
a herd of cattle that it soon swelled to a considerable
rodeo. !N"o sooner, however, did they discover the
presence of the hunters, than becoming frantic they
rushed from side to side like a band of furies, and,
heedless of the shouts and goads of the horsemen,
broke at length through the ring of even these expe-
rienced hunters, scattering again in all directions. In
vain did the fearless pursuers throw themselves be-
tween the wild mass and the jungle ; so rapid and
entire was the dispersion that the plain which but
now swarmed with the driven, bellowing, maddened
creatures, was cleared as if by magic, leaving the dis-
appointed hunters in sole possession. Only here and
there a faint cloud of dust in the distance betrayed
the course that some of the fugitives had taken. The
men, enraged at this unexpected discomfiture, could
not be restrained from again entering the tangled

296 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

labyrinth and dragging thence by sheer force a num-
ber of the refractory brutes. After deliberation, it
was decided that several of the hunters should scour
the plain in search of the runaways, while the larger
number rushed, again fearlessly into the jungle.
These at last succeeded in securing several fierce
bulls, each of which was treated secundum artem, de-
priving them of the chance of doing much mischief in
future ; for no sooner were they down, than the knife
and the saw were busy with their horns, ears, &c.
But the business was not accomplished without the
usual average of casualties in these contests, and on
that occasion one of our best hands was greatly im-
perilled. A ferocious bull was undergoing the usual
precautionary, though severe measures, for his sub-
jugation, when one of the men standing near, acci-
dentally became entangled in the coils of the lazo at
a moment when the bull, infuriated, escaped from
those who held him. The poor fellow, although
thrown violently to the ground and severely stunned,
almost miraculously escaped further injury. The
daring Sarmiento, one of those who witnessed the
transaction, enraged at sight of his helpless compan-
ion, sprang from his horse, seized the sheep-skin
which covered the saddle, and holding it before him-
self, fearlessly advanced sword in hand to meet the
bull, which, not comprehending the challenge, stood
panting and trembling with rage before his bold ad-
versary. The matador perceiving this, approached
him more closely and shook the sheep-skin in the
animal's face ; then, firm as a rock, he stood and
dauntlessly awaited the coming struggle ; it was

THE CIMAKRONERA. 297

enough ; with head lowered to the ground, and lash-
ing himself furiously with his powerful tail, the bull
rushed upon his antagonist with a terrific roar, causing
every heart to tremble for the safety of the bold mat-
ador. Then we heard a heavy fall, a deep groan ;
we saw only a cloud of dust that concealed the scene ;
but we knew the Llanero had conquered. Trium-
phant shouts of approbation filled the air, whilst I
knew not whether most to applaud the fearless grace
with which the man had stood his ground before this,
the most powerful of all infuriate creatures, or the
dexterous celerity that had found, and with one fatal
blow penetrated, the narrow passage through the ver-
tebrae into the spinal marrow. But the scene in that
remote corner of the earth recalled forcibly to my
mind the spirited lines in which the author of Childe
Harold thus depicts one of like nature in the midst
of refined Europe :

" Foiled, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last,
Full in the centre stands the bull at bay
Mid wounds and clinging darts and lances brast,
And foes disabled in the brutal fray :
And now the matadors around him play,
Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand :
Once more through all he bursts his thundering way-
Vain rage ! the mantle quits the conynge hand,
"Wraps his fierce eye — 'tis past — he sinks upon the sand ! "

Those who had galloped off in search of the scat-
tered herd finally returned, bringing a large addition
to the stock, and we were driving them to the para-
dero, when our Leader's horse, a fiery charger of the

298 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Goagiro breed,* little accustomed to the broken
ground of the pampas, lost his footing and fell with
him while endeavoring to clear an extensive terro-
nero. Fortunately his rider received no injury ; but
loosing hold of the bridle in his fall, the horse was
soon careering over the plain, and would inevitably
have made good his escape, had not some vaqueros
hunting in that direction encountered and captured
him after a long race. Accidents of the kind are
very common in the Llanos, and often in consequence
many persons are killed or otherwise injured. The
least evil to which the ousted rider may be subjected,
is that of being left alone, perhaps with a dislocated
limb, on an extensive plain, where the unfortunate
may perish from hunger or exposure before assistance
chances to reach him. Our friend B., who once
found himself similarly circumstanced, related to us
on this occasion the adventure, which he swore by
all the saints in the calendar had actually occurred
to him. Notwithstanding such exalted referees, a
few grains of doubt still disturbed our belief.

" He was once," he said, " engaged in hunting
with a party of vaqueros on the extensive savannas
of Merecure, which form the great cajon or pampa
between the rivers Cunaviche and Arauca. Having
started in the morning -with a full complement of
men, there was no difficulty in forming the rodeo /
but, as in our own case, all their manoeuvres proved
ineffectual in keeping together so great a number of
untamed brutes, which finally broke through the

* Raised by a warlike tribe of Indians inhabiting the peninsula of
La Goagira, on the Gulf of Maracaibo.

THE CIMARRONERA. 299

ranks as easily as might a herd of wild hogs through
a field of reeds, and vanished in the distance. So
great was the cloud of dust they raised, that when it
cleared, B., whose horse during the confusion had
stumbled in the hole of a prairie-owl, thrown, and
then deserted him, found himself solus in the midst
of the wide pampa, and so bewildered and confused
by the general stampede, that he was totally unable
to discover the least clew by which to guide his steps
over those trackless wilds. Overcome with the fa-
tigue of his useless search, he threw himself upon the
ground, finally quite disheartened by the recollection
that he had no lazo by which he would have been
enabled at any time to secure sufficient animal food
for his subsistence. Two whole days he thus passed
hopelessly wandering and in search of food, when,
upon the third, kind Providence, compassionating his
sufferings, placed in his way a fat calf, which he suc-
ceeded in capturing after a short chase. Having
slaughtered it, he roasted the whole at once lest it
might spoil, then ravenously devoured the welcome
repast. This supply lasted several days, when again
finding himself minus food, he determined to put in
practice a stratagem that he had devised whereby to
secure for himself in future an unfailing supply
of wholesome nourishment. He had observed the
mother of the calf, apparently in search of her off-
spring, lingering in the neighborhood, moaning and
bellowing in a most piteous manner. Availing him-
self of the first eligible opportunity, he approached
her on all fours, entirely covered with the skin of her
own calf, and forthwith commenced drawing suste-

300 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

nance from the maternal fount ; this he accomplished
with so much natural ease and grace, that the tender
mother, after a few incredulous sniffs, felt convinced
at last of his being a perfect calf, and accepting him
for her own, bestowed upon him a good licking. Thus
gracious! y encouraged, and each day more delighted
with the unrestrained freedom of his new life, time
rolled on and a year elapsed without his ever regret-
ting the loss of home or friends ; while so powerful
was the effect of this novel mode of existence upon
his person, that it had materially altered his whole
appearance, and as the calf skin seemed to have ac-
tually adhered to his own, so he found himself rapidly
assimilating, as well in tastes as habits, to that inter-
esting quadruped.

About this period the majordomo undertook
another hunt on these plains, where he quickly suc-
ceeded in collecting a large number of cattle ; but
although they were all, as usual, extremely difficult
to manage, still there was one of the number, a
young bull with a fine pair of horns twelve inches
long, more refractory and troublesome than any of
the others, which fact — as B. was the bull — was owing
probably to his educated instincts, they enabling him
to devise a variety of expedients for the discomfiture
of his pursuers. However he was at length obliged
to yield to superior numbers, and the unerring lazo
finally brought him struggling to the ground, when
in an instant one of his captors, an athletic sambo,
had drawn his knife and commenced sharpening it
upon the horns of this novel minotaurus, preparatory
to performing upon him the usual necessary oper-

THE CIMARRONERA. 301

ations. But what language can do justice to the as-
tonishment of all beholders, when the apparent bull,
casting aside his hairy disguise, sprang erect from the
ground, exclaiming as he did so : " Stop, amigos !
can you have forgotten your old comrade B., who
was lost a year ago in this cimarronera f "

So perilous an adventure having convinced him of
the risks attending a savage life, his companions had
no difficulty in persuading him to return home with
them, and thereafter found him of immense assistance
in their expeditions, as, being perfectly familiar with
the haunts and habits of the cattle in that cover, he
could lead the vaqueros, when required, with the
sagacity of a pointer.

This story, which B. related with the most admir-
able ingenuousness of manner, recalled to his recol-
lection a wonderful discovery upon which he had
chanced, while journeying on a pressing errand to
Arauca.

He had been riding hard all day across the plains,
until at length, overtaken by night, he was constrained
to encamp on the spot. Grass and water for his
horse — a fine trotter — being abundant and at hand, he
took no precaution to prevent his straying, other than
that of fastening the animal's feet on the right side
with a manea, a strap with looped nooses at both ends.
In spite of this the horse wandered from him during
the night, a mishap which compelled poor B. to finish
the remainder of the journey on foot, besides being
obliged to carry the ponderous saddle upon his head.

Having accomplished his errand at Arauca, and
after an absence of several weeks, he was returning

•

302 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

home by another route, riding a hired animal, when
to his great joy, on the way he found his steed in fine
condition, and his feet still secured by the strap. The
horse he was riding being already tired, he removed
the saddle to the back of his own steed, and imme-
diately mounted him. But to his overpowering as-
tonishment, he discovered, on resuming the journey,
that the gait of his horse had undergone an extraor-
dinary change, trotting as formerly on the side that
had remained free from the strap, but ambling on the
one which had been so long confined by it. His wife
possessing an ambler, he sold it immediately he
reached home, it being thereafter a useless expense, as,
whenever in the future he and his better half wished
to ride at the same time, all that he had to do was to
place her on the ambling side, and then seating him-
self on the other they trotted and ambled away to
their hearts' content.

The nights were thus pleasantly spent, after the
fatigues of the day, most of our men having always
some incident or story to relate in connection with
their own experience. One evening, Gaspar, the lame
negro who followed our camp in the humble capacity
of washerman, recounted to a circle of admiring lis-
teners a thrilling adventure which took place on this
very spot, and in which he took a very conspicuous
part. He had been a slave to the wealthy Manuel
Blanco, who owned at that time nearly all these sa-
vannas, and possessed in consequence untold wealth
in cattle and horses. In that capacity Gaspar was
often compelled to attend the great hunts undertaken
by his master against any tigre cebado that might
have committed depredations in the land.

THE JAGUAR HUNT. 3Q3

THE JAGUAR HUNT.

" IT was during the month of August/' said Gas-
par, * ' when the savannas are at the height of inunda-
tion, that the circumstances I am about to relate
occurred at this farm of Matiyure. At such times
the tigers, finding the low lands rather too damp for
their delicate feet, seek refuge among the matas, or
in the immediate vicinity of the farm-house, coming
out at night to procure a good supper for themselves
and cubs from amongst the herds congregated on the
francos, and not unfrequently it happens they carry
their depredations to the very gates of the majada.

" We had heard for several nights in succession
what, in the opinion of our people, was only the bel-
lowing of padrotes assembling their herds, but which
the more sagacious hounds recognized at once as the
roar of their old acquaintance, the tiger, invariably
answering each time with a prolonged and dismal
howl. It was easy to perceive, from the prints left in
the mud, that there were several of these animals,
perhaps a mother and her cubs. One fine morning
the boys who tended the calves apprised the major-
domo that some wild beast had broken into the
chiquero,* and carried off the old sow, about giving
birth to a litter ; next day the boar was missing, and
so on until the chiquero was entirely relieved of all the
inmates. Fearing for our own lives and the safety of

* The pig-pen.

304: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

our steeds, the majordomo made arrangements for a
grand hunt, for the purpose of exterminating, if pos-
sible, the whole of these marauders. Our master, who
was at that time in the village, was notified of the
plan, as were also all those who might wish to improve
this opportunity for the display of personal prowess.

" The following day we had the satisfaction of see-
ing our master arrive at the farm, accompanied by the
Padre and a long retinue of assistants, all of them
zambos of undoubted courage and most accomplished
matadors. The Padre, a fat little gentleman not yet
past the prime of life, came more as a curioso * than,
as many supposed, to exorcise the demons of the jun-
gle. Although he had the reputation of being a very
holy father, he did not disdain at times to lay aside
the cassock and join his parishioners in the manly
sport of the Llanos.

" We mustered about forty in all, which, together
with a dozen or more tiger-dogs, were considered quite
sufficient for our purpose. Some of the men carried
lances cut to within six feet of the steel head, so that
the long shaft might not interfere with their move-
ments in the jungle ; whilst others, trusting more to
their own agility and skill, were simply armed with
their swords and a saleo f to cover their movements.
I, who was neither a matador nor a great horseman at
the time, was intrusted with the hazardous post of
leading the dogs into the cover, and therefore was
more exposed than any of the rest to the anger of the
tiger.

* Amateur. f Sheep-skin.

THE JAGUAR HUNT. 305

" We were not long in tracking the pintado to a
neighboring mata by the fresh prints of his paw in the
soft mud and by a number of turkey-buzzards hover-
ing above the carcass in the woods.

" On arriving at the place supposed to harbor the
beast, all those of our men who had lazos were sta-
tioned at convenient distances around the wood,
while I was ordered to lead the dogs into the jungle
after the concealed enemy. This I accomplished with
due precautions, aware, as you all know, that the pin-
tado has the peculiarity of concealing himself where
not even a fox could hide itself without being discov-
ered. Presently I perceived a very strong smell — not
unlike that arising from a leather vat — which fiUed '
the air in whatever direction the dogs led me, and
soon after a tremendous howling from these worthies
apprised me in whose company they had thrust me.
Simultaneously with the howling of the dogs, I heard
first a hoarse growling, not unlike a concert of ara-
guatos just before the rain, and, judging from the in-
creased barking of the hounds, I concluded that the
enemy was in full retreat, when I thought my time
had come to show him my mettle. But lo ! scarcely
had I advanced many paces, when, Ave Maria,
Senores ! the tiger gave such a fearful roar as to shake
the ground and the trees upon it. I do not know
what became of the dogs or the tiger at the moment;
for my part, all I can say is, that, without being aware
of it, I found myself again alongside of my com-
panions, and, what was worse, in the presence of the
majordomo, who, by way of warning, discharged upon

306 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

my ribs sundry blows with his chaparro. It is need-
less to add, that after this I considered myself ten
times better off amidst my hounds, whom I had every
reason to expect would keep away the beast from me,
I mean, of course, the tiger. Upon my word, carna-
radas, and with all due respect to mi Comandante
Kdvago, here present, I assure you that, of all savage
creatures, there is none so terrible as an angry major-
domo/'

" Thou didst find it so," retorted the weather-beaten
overseer, " when, amidst a shower of bullets from the
Spaniards, I dragged thee out like a lame duck from
the plaza at La Cruz ; but proceed, my old buzzard,
and, tell us what effect did the well-deserved thrashing
produce on thy sooty hide."

" Guided by the barking of the dogs, I again en-
tered the wood with renewed determination, for this
time, at least, I was well provided with a lance, which
some humane companion placed in my hands, besides
a saleo which I picked up on my way thither. Thus
armed and prepared for the encounter, I fancied my-
self this time another Marcelino, slaying everything
around me ; but how I acquitted myself afterwards
the sequel of my narrative will show you.

" Well, Senores, I found Tio Tigre * at the foot of
a large algarroba-tree, surrounded by my dogs, whose
movements he watched all the time with an evil eye.
To all appearances none of the contending parties
had yet come to any decisive move, although the

* For explanation, sec page 231.

THE JAGUAR HUNT. 397

hounds kept very closely on him. Cat-like, seated
on his haunches and playfully moving his tail from
side to side, he awaited the attack of the barking
troop with becoming composure, never betraying the
least symptom of alarm, nor even deigning to stir a
foot beyond his post to silence them. At times he
even appeared to disregard their menacing tone, rub-
bing his eyes with his great paws as if doubtful which
of my fat hounds would afford him the best meal.
Occasionally he licked his thick upper lip with his
fiery tongue, as if savoring beforehand the unexpected
morsel thus brought before him. Finally one of the
dogs, which appeared more courageous than the rest,
made a sudden spring at his side, when I thought my
time had come to plunge my lance into his vitals.
But before I could measure the distance that sepa-
rated me from the enemy, I had the mortification to
see my brave companion stretched lifeless on the
ground. This, I thought, was a bad beginning ; but
if ever I have a chance at thy dirty skin (said I to
the villain), I am going to dye it of a different hue.

" My dogs, however, were not to be intimidated so
easily after this unexpected discomfiture : on the con-
trary, growing more and more clamorous all the time
for the fate of their companion, they seemed deter-
mined on avenging his death by renewing their at-
tacks upon the enemy. The tiger, however, conscious,
no doubt, of the fate that awaited him beyond his
lair, obstinately refused to be driven out like a pole-
cat, but adhered firmly to his entrenchment at the
foot of the tree.

308 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

"Now, there was among my pack of hounds a
splendid fellow which had always been a particular
favorite of mine, not only on*aceount of his superior
strength in dealing with refractory bulls, but also for
his friendly attachment to my person, which he had
displayed more especially whenever the majordomo
showed himself overzealous on behalf of my master by
an undue punishment on me. Observing that the
tiger still persisted in maintaining his position, I said
to Fierabras — for such was my favorite's name — Now
then, my boy, show him your teeth ! while I ad-
vanced two or three steps with the intention of pin-
ning the animal with my lance to the body of the
tree. But alas ! vain attempt : with one stroke from
his huge paw, the tiger snatched the lance from my
hands, and laid me flat on the ground, inflicting at
the same time the severe gash on my neck that you
may still observe. But that is not all ; as the scoun-
drel, disregarding all the rules of decency and polite-
ness, very coolly sat himself upon my face, nearly suffo-
cating me with the weight of his body and the strong
exhalations arising from it. I thought that if I could
get at my cuchillo, which I carried by my side, I
would soon get the pride out of him ; but in the sit-
uation I then was, it would have been impossible and
even hazardous to attempt anything of the kind.
Fortunately the tiger, like his near relative, the cat,
seldom worries his victims as long as they keep per-
fectly still. By this time some of my friends outside
— not hearing the loud whoops by which I encouraged
the dogs, and fearing something serious might have

THE JAGUAR HUNT. 309

happened to me — hastened to the spot from whence
proceeded the barking of the dogs, and endeavored to
rescue me from my perilous situation. The tangled
nature of the wood, however, not permitting the men
to use their lazos, one of my companions — a slave, like
myself, and a most daring matador — resolved to attack
the tiger with his sword. Seizing the sheep-skin from
the seat of his saddle, and partly rolling it on his left
arm, he advanced boldly upon the tiger, and, with a
voice that I shall never forget, he cried out : e Now,
then, Tiijo 'una put .... you don't know who Pau-
lino Blanco is, or else you would not be making faces
at me there as if you were a monkey/ The tiger, who
most likely had, during his nocturnal visits to the
farm-house, heard something about the famous ma-
tador, very wisely disregarded the insult flung at him,
instead of rushing on to his encounter like a mad bull.
This somewhat disconcerted the plans of the matador,
who was also aware of the danger of attacking the
beast in his intrenchment ; but finally losing all man-
ner of patience, Paulino made a rush on the tiger, not
stopping until he almost touched the animal's nose
with the sheep-skin ; then plunging his sword in the
neck of his antagonist, both fell rolling on the ground,
cracking the brushwood as they struggled. In the
meantime I was not slow in improving the opportu-
nity to crawl out in search of my lost lance, which I
soon found, and was enabled by means of it to return
the service rendered by my companion. To plunge
the lance into the beast's heart and turn him on his
side, was the work of a moment, after which the tiger

310 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

gradually relaxed his hold upon my prostrate com-
panion, and stretched himself out to die without a.
groan, but not before he had inflicted several deep
wounds on the neck and chest of his antagonist.
Thus ended the career of that scourge of the savan-
nas, and my first experience in tiger-hunting.

" After this adventure it was easy to perceive that
chasing the tiger on his own ground was not an easy
task by any means. Therefore our people were in-
duced to proceed more cautiously in the subsequent
search that was made for the others.

( ' It was not long before the dogs, which were by this
time aroused to a sense of revenge and self-defence,
fell in with the track of another tiger, probably the
wife of the defunct, as it was evident from the foot-
prints that she was followed by two younger ones.
Fearing from past experience that this second hunt
might also prove as disastrous as the former, it was
agreed that all those who carried lances should enter
the wood on foot in order to attack the tigress in a
body, should she refuse to come out to open ground.
I, of course, was too faint with loss of blood to be able
to follow up the trail this time ; therefore the dogs
had been placed under the guidance of some one else)
and shortly after I had the satisfaction of hearing the
bark of my chaps resounding through the woods,
which was a sure sign they had brought the game to
a stand. I was expecting every moment to hear the
glad tidings of the destruction of this female ma-
rauder, when, instead of the usual cry of victory, I
heard a tremendous rush and cracking of sticks, as if

THE JAGUAR HUNT.

a herd of wild hogs were endeavoring to escape.
Judge of my disappointment when I beheld the whole
troop of men and dogs hurrying out of the wood ; and
at the head of the fugitives no less a personage than
his Reverence the Padre, hotly chased by the enraged
tigress, who, having witnessed the slaughter in cold
blood of one of her darlings, could not restrain her
fury any longer, charging headlong into the midst of
the group. In spite of his category, she would in all
probability have made short work of Su Senoria, had
not the Padre conceived the good idea of dropping his
broad-brim behind him, which fortunately was carried
away by a strong gust of wind, thus exciting the en-
raged beast to a pursuit. The tigress, after sporting
with the hat like a bird after a butterfly, finding that
it was mere chaff, tore it in pieces, and again turned
her attention towards the reverend fugitive. In the
meantime the Padre had not been very slow in reach-
ing his horse, which was tied at the foot of a caujaro-
tree a short distance from the wood. Unfortunately,
just as he was in the act of laying hands upon the
bridle of his steed, the tigress issued from amongst the
high grass, and again charged him. At sight of the
dreaded beast, the horse, giving a toss to the halter in
the air, broke loose and scampered off, leaving his
master to the tender mercies of the tigress.

" Swifter than a monkey, and in spite of his pon-
derous stomach, the Padre went up the slender tree,
which bent like a reed at every effort he made to reach
the branches, threatening to drop him between the
open jaws of the tigress, which by this time had

312 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

reached the foot of the tree. Here, again, his patron
saint, as it is alleged, saved him once more from the
impending danger. The truth, in my opinion, is that
the tree was not stout enough for the tigress to em-
brace it firmly to climb up, otherwise all the good
saints in heaven would not have prevented her from
tearing him down like a frightened araguato* His
Reverence might have remained there until the day
of judgment, as the tigress had already crouched be-
neath the tree, and he had no means at hand for
driving her off, not even through the power of excom-
munication, but for the timely arrival of two enlaza-
doresrf who, observing a horse scampering over the
plain without a rider, were attracted to the spot ;
these, unfolding their lazos, threw them at the beast
with such precision as to entangle the animal at one
and the same moment ; she was thus prevented from
doing injury to either the Padre or themselves ; for,
every time she endeavored to spring on the one, the
other tighted his lazo to check her movement. Furi-
ous with rage and foaming at the mouth, the tigress
endeavored to bite the lazos through and through ;
but finding the hide from which the thong was twisted
rather too tough even for her powerful tusks, she rolled
over the grass in trepidation and dismay at finding
herself so unexpectedly in the power of her captors.

" It was a g!6rious sight to behold the savage crea-
ture thus struggling with the slender lazos that bound

* Howling monkey.

f Horsemen furnished with lazos.

THE JAGUAR HUNT. 313

her to the ground. Crippled as I was from the effects
of my first encounter with the tiger, I had sufficient
strength to reach the scene of action in time to take
part in the death of his wife also ; but ere I dealt the
first blow at her, I felt my arm suddenly arrested by
the Padre, who contended that the honor of putting
an end to her accursed existence belonged to him ex-
clusively as being the aggrieved party on this occa-
sion. I therefore willingly surrendered my lance to
him, he having lost his own-spear in the hurry of the
moment ; and then he set to work cutting her up
with all the nicety of us folks, as if he had long been
trained in the art of wielding a lance. Nevertheless,,
the tigress would not allow herself to be so easily con-
quered ; at every stroke from the Padre's lance, she
seized the pole with teeth and claws so firmly that we
found it difficult to wrench it from her grasp, and it
was not until she had been literally cut to pieces that
she gave up the ghost — to the devil, I hope.

" It was late in the afternoon when we finished our
hunt, and turned our horses' heads in the direction of
the farm-house. We should, no doubt, have succeeded
in killing as many more of these ferocious beasts, but
for the early mishap to myself and the good zambo
Paulino, in consequence of which we both had to be
carried — or, rather, we carried ourselves as well as we
could — to the pueblo , in order to have our wounds
properly dressed. On our arrival at the house, we
found our mistress — who had already been acquainted
with the facts by my master — awaiting us at the gate
of the inclosure, and apparently very much excited

14

314; TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

with the news ; for no sooner did Paulino pass the
gate, and without waiting for him to dismount from
his horse, than she accosted my companion in the fol-
lowing manner : ' Well, Paulino, my boy, I declare

now tell me, how did the tiger scratch you,

my poor fellow, and what did you do to the scoun-
drel ? ' with other similar expressions of feminine curi-
osity. Paulino, who was more matter of fact than
we poor slave folks have generally the credit for, very
prudently hesitated at first to comply with the train
of her requests, excusing himself by saying, ' Alas !
mistress, it was a hard case, indeed ; but, to tell you
Nthe truth, I shouldn't like to show you how/

"This reluctance on the part of my companion
only helped to excite her curiosity still more, until she
commanded him, in a peremptory manner, to explain
to her the circumstances of the case. By this time
Paulino had, with some difficulty, extricated himself
from the saddle, and falling suddenly upon our mis-
tress with a loud yell, he threw her upon the ground and
commenced biting and scratching her just as the tiger
had done to him. The yell from zambo and the shrieks
from mi Senora soon drew to the spot my master, and
some gentlemen who had come to congratulate him
on the success of the hunt. Frantic with passion,
and in a tone of voice which made me tremble for
poor Paulino, he roared out, ' How, now ! Who's
taking such liberties with my wife, here ! ' To which
Paulino very calmly replied, ' 'Tis nothing, master ;
I was only showing mistress how the tiger scratched
me ! ' . , ."

CHAPTER XXIT.

LOS BORALES.

AWARE of the importance of a plentiful supply of
water for the cattle during the season of drought, we
resolved to build a large reservoir in the heart of the
savannas before leaving the pampas, and with this ob-
ject now turned our steps toward the lagoon of Los
Borales — so named in honor of a species of water lily
very abundant on its borders — which, although quite
a lake during the rainy season, often lost its waters
by evaporation and other causes when most needed.
This required a dam to be raised across one of the
many creeks traversing these plains in all directions,
to arrest the flow when the floods begin ebbing, thus
leaving an artificial reservoir where previously only
an extensive bog existed. We installed ourselves
within the shelter of a solitary grove, and imme-
diately commenced raising an embankment to several
feet above the level of the plain, taking the earth for
the purpose from the bed of a creek connecting with
the lagoon. Digging to the depth of twelve feet, we
came upon a tree with trunk and branches in perfect

316 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

preservation, which, although it had evidently been
thus entombed for ages, a breath of air had power to
crumble into dust. As from the time of our arrival
it had rained unceasingly, the water rapidly accumu-
lated in the now completed reservoir, though our sat-
isfaction received something of a damper from the
fact that the fires were thereby constantly extin-
guished, until we bethought ourselves of erecting
over them a covering of green boughs about three
feet from the ground. Upon this we laid large pieces
of meat, which, covered with palm leaves, were speed-
ily cooked by the fire beneath.

In that retired and solitary grove, seated on a
pack-saddle, and surrounded by lazos, bridles, and
other emblems of our peaceful occupation, I wrote
under the dictation of our Leader, his emphatic refusal
to accept the Presidency of the Republic for a third
time. Little did we then dream that this spontaneous
act of political abnegation would be hailed with ex-
ultation by his enemies, in the hope of working, as it
did for a time, his ruin as well as that of the Repub-
lic ; and that the same plains where occurred this
disinterested proof of patriotism, should shortly after-
ward witness a scene of bloodshed and persecution
to him who, not long before, had been the acknowl-
edged guardian of his country's liberties.

Thunder storms were now of frequent occurrence.
One night we were awakened by a fearful clap from
the approaching tempest. The prospect was not in-
viting. Sheltered in our hammocks only by our tol-
dosy and raising among us all but a very small um-
brella of philosophy, we awaited the coming storm.

LOS BORALES. 317

In a moment it was upon us with a raging wind that
threatened to overthrow and crush us beneath the
falling branches of the trees. Then from the heavens
descended so continuous a sheet of commingled fire
and flood, that these at last appeared to become a
part of the atmosphere we breathed. Terrified by
this fearful uproar, our madrina of supernumerary
horses, which, fearing the snakes, we had quartered
in the bed of a dried-up lagoon, dashed madly across
the plain, in spite of the combined efforts of their
keepers. But no sooner had these refractory animals
abandoned the secure pastures for the high grounds,
than, attacked by snakes, three of them paid with
their lives their insubordination, and one of these un-
fortunates was afterward brought staggering into the
camp, groaning piteously. Unable in the darkness
to discover the cause of his sufferings, a light was
speedily procured by igniting a rag rolled in fat,
when a most revolting spectacle presented itself ; the
poor beast, so covered with blood that he appeared
literally to have been plunged into a bath of gore,
had evidently been bitten by a snake, possibly the
same which in killing the others had probably nearly
exhausted its poison upon them, so that what re-
mained of the venom had not power to produce im-
mediate death, but effected a complete diapedesis or
transudation of the blood. A curandero present un-
dertook to restore the poor animal by means of the
famous oracion, but on this occasion his skill was
vain — the horse in a short time expiring, apparently
in great agony. The groans of the dying animal, the
thundering of the others along the waste, the shouts

318 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

and curses of their pursuers, who in the darkness
were in danger of being trampled under the feet of
more than three hundred frightened animals, mingled
with the appalling fury of the elements, until it seemed
as though earth and heaven were struggling for the
mastery. This fearful scene oh, my unhappy coun-
try ! shadowed forth but too faithfully thy dark night
of despotism ; the anarchy, contentions, and wretched-
ness of thy children ; thy ravaged borders, where the
" Wise and Good " had formerly scattered plenty
over the smiling land, and portrays now to me as faith'
fully the night when I, with a handful of brave youths
from Maracaibo, was surprised upon the borders of its
lake by the myrmidons of the tyrant Monagas, and
carried prisoners to the capital while endeavoring to
save the remnant of constitutional liberty in the re^
public.

Our men, finding it impossible during the dark-
ness to trace the horses — among them all of those used
for the saddle — were obliged to postpone their search
until sunrise. At length, as if wearied with its wild
orgies, this tumultuous night passed away, and the
morning star appeared leading the timid dawn. The
earth, so late the dark abode of chaos, now in bloom
and beauty, seemed the favored daughter of the
spheres, sparkling in liquid gems, and radiant in the
gorgeous splendor of tropical spring, while myriads
of white lilies, far as eye could reach, mantled the
plain, flooding with perfume the pure morning air.
Countless flocks of waterfowl, from the tiny guiriri
to the soldier-like crane of the pampas, crowded the

LOS BORALES. 319

miniature lakes, which the late storm had left in
every hollow of the ground, and made the air re-
sound with their harsh and varied notes. Conspicu-
ous among these last were the several species of
garzas — herons — those " Ladies of the waters, delicate
in form, beautiful in plumage, and graceful in their
movements," whose slender, arching necks, curving
here and there above and through the sprouting
grass, reminded one of the deadly snakes lurking
about the plain. There, too, the carrao, a bird less
prepossessing in appearance, but endowed with keen
perception of a coming change of weather, announ-
ced by loud cries, from which it derives its name,
the near approach of rain with singular precision.
Clouds of fluttering gamotas or scissor-beaks (Khyn-
chops) skimmed the water in wild, irregular flight,
ploughing up the smaller fish with their scissor-like
beaks, and vexing the ear with harsh and piercing
cries. On all sides bellowing herds of cattle and
troops of emaciated deer wandered, panting as they
sought for water and fresh food ; while, rescued from
the torpor into which the protracted summer drought
had plunged them, the drowsy crocodiles and slug-
gish tortoises moved slowly over the plain in search
of the reviving element.

It was no easy task to keep the fires burning after
the deluging showers of the previous night, in con-
sequence of which we were threatened for a while
with starvation in the midst of plenty, as not only
had our temporary kitchen been destroyed, but every
log of wood was drenched with water ; so were also
our scanty garments and ponchos, most of them being

320 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

likewise in a few hours covered with the larvae of
myriads of flies which infested our camp. These
petites misdres were, however, forgotten for the mo-
ment in the all-absorbing topic of the whereabouts of
our runaway horses. Happily the Llaneros, accus-
tomed from their infancy to observe the instincts of the
animals surrounding them, possess a sort of intuitive
knowledge — with them it might be called a science —
of their movements and impulses.

In following the trail of stray animals amidst
thousands intercepting each other in every direction,
it is of course necessary to determine the right one in
order to prosecute the search with some degree of
success. The long experience and sagacity of our
sturdy majordomo, whose word was considered in-
fallible in such matters, were of incalculable advan-
tage on this occasion. Calmly seated on his ham-
mock, his weather-beaten countenance turned toward
the far horizon, he assembled around him the wearied
watchmen of the missing drove, still drenched by the
late tempest ; and directing each squad as to the
probable course followed by the separate groups of
horses, he ordered them to disperse over the plain in
pursuit of their uncertain errand. As the subsequent
results proved, on the afternoon of the following day,
it was executed with gratifying punctuality ; and
here I may be permitted to utter a passing word of
praise in behalf of these hardy cavaliers of the desert
plains, upon whose courage and sagacity often de-
pends, not only the success of such expeditions, but
sometimes even the fate of a whole army, whose pro-
gress would be seriously endangered without a com-

LOS BORALES. 321

petent body of cavalry to procure the necessary sup-
ply of beef. Scantily provided with raiment, poorly
paid, and the simple fare of the Llanos for rations,
they are at the post of duty at all hours, in the hot
sunshine of day, or " in thunder, in lightning, and in
rain " by night, always cheerful and happy, providing
they have with them their inharmonious guitar and
plenty of tobacco with which to satisfy their appetite
for stimulus of some sort. Among the various duties
of their vocation, one of the hardest to which they
are subjected is that of keeping a constant watch over
the cattle at night to prevent their dispersion, as they
are compelled to remain for hours on horseback and
" wide awake." In order to accustom the cattle to
the voice of their nocturnal guardians, a constant
chant in a peculiarly plaintive strain, in which cattle
seem rather to delight, is kept up until morning,
when only a few horsemen are necessary to retain
them within the grazing ground. Should the unruly
herd, despite their vigilance, take alarm, as is often
the case, or evince any symptoms of uneasiness, the
first care of the men is to close in, in circle, and if this,
prove unavailing, they place themselves at the head
of the stampede, in order to check, if possible, the
progress of the affrighted multitude ; but woe to the
unfortunate watchman whose horse, missing his foot-
ing, throws his rider, for he will be trampled to death
in an instant !

One afternoon we were apprised by a special mes-
senger from El Frio, that a tall, red-faced Englishman
had arrived from the Orinoco, bringing any quantity

322 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of fire-arms, ammunition, and — what appeared most
extraordinary to our informant — a genuine negro ser-
vant who could speak English. As no written com-
munication had been despatched along with the
bearer of this unexpected piece of intelligence, we
had not an idea of who this British Nimrod might be.
We, however, hastened to welcome the stranger, and
for the purpose left Los Borales next morning for
head-quarters. On arriving, we were most agreeably
surprised at meeting no less a personage than Lord
James Butler, now, as I understand, Earl of Or-
mond. We then recollected that the previous year,
when his lordship had honored us with a visij; at our
home in the valleys of Aragua, he had promised that
should we carry out our projected expedition to the
pampas, he would meet us there. Accordingly, in
expectation of this, he had quitted Barbadoes — where
he was stationed with his regiment — in his yacht for
the river Orinoco. There he left it and prosecuted
the remainder of the voyage in a clumsy bongo, up
the Apure, arriving at San Fernando nearly a month
after quitting Ciudad Bolivar. At the former place
he was advised to proceed to Achaguas, where he
would most likely hear of our whereabouts. Obtain-
ing there the requisite information, he immediately set
out for our cattle farm, distant about fifteen leagues ;
but instead of providing him with a guide across the
trackless waste, he was merely furnished with a re-
fractory mule, which they assured him would take
him to the next cattle farm, whence he would be di-
rected onward. He had not proceeded far on his
solitary way, when the vicious animal, taking fright

LOS BORALES. 323

at a prairie-owl just as fright was approaching, sud-
denly whirled round, and my lord, despite his long
legs and English horsemanship, lost his balance, was
dismounted, and, what was worse, left to shift for
himself in the midst of a wide plain ; the mule, finding,
perhaps, the load rather too much for him, scampering
off without even a parting compliment. Nor wras his
sable squire at hand to render him the requisite assist-
ance, as he had been left behind in charge of the
numberless accoutrements for the chase. Fortunately
a peon accidentally encountered the mule on his way
home, and knowing the tricks of the animal, secured
him, and brought him back to the discomfited trav-
eller.

His lordship related this adventure with much
humor, and on our expressing regret that he had met
with so disagreeable a contretemps^ he coolly replied
that he scarcely considered it in that light, and rather
regretted its speedy termination as having, possibly,
deprived him of some curious experiences.

Although the best room in the house had been
prepared for his accommodation, we observed with
surprise that when night came, he insisted upon
having his hammock slung in the open air. This, we
afterward discovered, was in consequence of his great
horror for the murcielagos clinging in clusters to the
thatch-roof of the house ; and I must confess also that
the guest-chamber in our Manor of the Pampas had
few attractions, and could offer none of the allure-
ments of the dulce domo to his lordship of Kilkenny
Castle. Wines or delicacies of any kind we had
none ; but as we were well aware that the hospitable

324: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Englishman always offers some choicer beverage than
water to his guests, we caused an old corozo-palm tree
standing in front of the house to be cut down, and
from it we procured every afternoon a plentiful sup-
ply of palm- wine. To obtain this, a trough is scooped
out in the upper part of the stem among the footstalks
of the leaves ; the opening is then covered with the
square piece of bark just cut out, and the wine or sap
allowed to accumulate in the trough during the night
A few hours are sufficient to produce a pleasant vinous
fermentation with a sweetish taste and a flavor sim-
ilar to that of Malaga wine ; but if left to ferment for
a longer period, it acquires decidedly intoxicating
properties.

Although our sports were nearly over at this time,
we endeavored to entertain our distinguished visitor
as well as circumstances would permit. We escorted
him several times to the savannas in search of game,
and even got up a rodeo and branding frolic for his
special amusement, with both of which he appeared
highly delighted. During the excitement of the
rodeo he had another adventure, similar to that I
have already related as having occurred to my friend,
Mr. Thomas, with a wild bull, and which came very
near proving more disastrous than his lordship's pre-
vious one with the refractory mule. We had just
surrounded a large herd of cattle, when, like the
artist, inspired by the excitement of the chase and its
accompanying scenes, Lord James seized his sketch-
book and commenced to delineate them. He had
not been long thus occupied, when a bull, attracted
perhaps by the commanding attitude of the draughts-

LOS BORALES. „ 325

man, broke through the ring, and made at him with
fury in his eyes. Unconscious of danger, he contin-
ued his occupation with as much composure as if at a
stag-hunt in the West Hiding of Yorkshire. It was
too late to render him assistance, and we watched the
issue with breathless anxiety ; but the bull, apparent-
ly awed by the immovable attitude of the rider and
his fearless composure, contented himself with making
a tremendous demonstration at the breast of the horse
without either touching him or his rider, and then,
turning tail, vanished in the distance. It was highly
amusing to hear his lordship inquire the meaning of
all that flourish of trumpets, when a witty Llanero,
standing near, replied to him that it was evidently
intended as a salutation from the wild multitude to
the honored guest.

Startled by the noise and rush of so many animals
over the plain, the foxes— in the pursuit of which
Englishmen are so lavish of trouble and expense —
could be seen running to and fro, endeavoring to
escape ; no sooner did the noble son of Albion dis-
cover that this favorite game was also to be found in
the pampas, than he abandoned the exciting hunt of
the wild cattle for the first fox that crossed his path.
He had not proceeded far, however, when another fox,
and then another, and finally a legion of them offered
to his eager pursuit. Bewildered by so many bushy
tails, he gave up the chase in disgust ; and I am
sorry to state that this species of enibarras de richesse,
spoiled sport for him in all his subsequent sorties,
excepting when, on a visit to the creek of Macanillal,
we " caught a tartar " in the shape of a full-grown

326 ^TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

crocodile, which^e mistook for a young one. This
adventure, however, afforded him a good deal of
amusement, and some surprise to those engaged in
the undertaking. It so happened that only the end
of the reptile's tail was out of water in a very shallow
spot, the rest of its body being entirely buried among
the roots of a large stump. Judging from the ap-
parent smallness of the tail that we could easily drag
out the creature, and his lordship having expressed a
desire to obtain the specimen for preservation, Rose-
liano immediately volunteered his services. He tried
in vain, however, to bring it to light unassisted,
whereupon a lazo was brought into requisition, and.
having noosed the tail therewith, we succeeded in
pulling the reptile out of its hiding-place, when, to
our great astonishment and trepidation, we discov-
ered that it was a large and full-grown female croco-
dile with a brood of young ones among the roots of
the old tree. She struggled furiously in defence of
her brood, several of which we captured and pre-
sented to our guest ; but when the time came for dis-
posing of the mother and recovering the lazo, we found
that it would prove no child's play, inasmuch as she
had full command of her jaws. After several ineffec-
tual attempts to stab her while in water, we succeeded
at length in dragging her partly from her lair, and
then only were we enabled to unfasten the noose. A
stab or two in the armpits, causing a flow of blood,
speedily brought the caribes to finish the job, after
which we returned to the house, much gratified at
having rid the creek of this dangerous family.

On our way back I met with a severe accident,

LOS BORALES. 327

and narrowly escaped serious injury from it. We
were cantering along a beautifully level piece of
ground, covered with short grass ; this suggested to
my English friends the idea of testing the relative
swiftness of our horses. Off we at once started, and
had proceeded but a short distance, when we found
our way obstructed by a dried-up creek. The English-
men, as a matter of course, delighted, leaped it at a
bound ; but my pony, not being sufficiently strong to
clear the obstruction, missed the opposite bank and
fell, rolling over with me into the ditch. I was a
good deal bruised in consequence, and the house
being still at considerable distance, suffered intensely
in reaching it. This accident prevented me from
joining in the other sports devised for the entertain-
ment of our noble guest, who, however shortly after-
ward bade us adieu and returned to the sea coast.
He preferred, on this occasion, the route through
Nutrias and Barinas, that he might escape the tedious
descent of the rivers ; a messenger was therefore de-
spatched to Ciudad Bolivar, ordering his yacht to
meet him at Puerto Cabello. Disabled by my recent
mishap, I could not, much to my regret, accompany
him ; a guide of his own selection was, however, fur-
nished in the person of our negro troubadour Quin-
tana, for whom his lordship had evinced a decided
predilection, even extending to him an invitation to
visit " Old England," the friend and protector of be-
nighted Africa ; but we could not spare him for so
long a trip ; and as Llaneros have an innate aversion
to trusting themselves on unknown waters, the ac-
quaintanceship terminated on the borders of the Ca-
ribbean Sea.

328 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

After the departure of our noble guest from El
Frio, we began to think that it was also high time
for us to be getting ready for our return homeward.
The task of retracing our steps, however, was not an
easy thing to accomplish with three thousand oxen to
look after, besides the other animals we brought
there ; and this in the face of the approaching inun-
dation of the savannas.

As soon as our preparations were completed, we
took our final departure from El Frio, which perhaps
we were destined never to revisit, stopping at San
Pablo for a few days to make further arrangements
at the pass for crossing the river with our immense
train of animals and baggage. On our way to San
Pablo, we were nigh being put to rout, and our
labors scattered to the winds, by an invasion of a
small bloody fly termed mosquUla, which makes its
appearance at the commencement of the rainy season,
and which, for destructiveness to flesh and blood, sur-
passes any thing I have yet seen in the shape of an
insect. In an instant we were enveloped in a swarm
of these terrible creatures, which fastened themselves
upon us and the cattle with a tenacity like that of
hungry leeches, maddening both man and beast, and
causing streams of blood to flow from the bites. The
only relief we found for a while was to drive the cattle
at full speed across the plain ; but this expedient, al-
though for the time it frightened away the flies, came
very near producing also a complete dispersion of the
herd. We therefore resigned ourselves to endure
their torturing attacks until they had gorged them-
selves with blood.

OUR LEADEE.

CHAPTER XXIII.

OUR LEADER.
THE ROMANCE OF A PATRIOT'S LIFE.

From San Pablo we despatched men on to Apur-
ito, where we proposed crossing the river with the
cattle, to make preparations for this toilsome work ;
and then started for Achaguas, the inhabitants of
which town had tendered our Leader an earnest in-
vitation to visit his old head-quarters. After an easy
ride of about three hours, we forded on horseback the
arm of the Apure River which, running in a south-
easterly direction, forms with the Arauca and the
main channel of the former the island of Achaguas,
on which the capital of the province, a collection of
mud hovels, is situated. A brood of scaly crocodiles
basking in the sun, and a herd of tame cattle refresh-
ing themselves in the middle of the stream, were the
only signs of animation we perceived on our approach
to the renowned capital of the Apure. In spite of its
present dilapidated condition, Achaguas did not fail
to interest me more than any other spot in Apure,
being my birthplace, and the stronghold for many
years of my country's independence. The Governor

330 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of the province, Senor Arciniega, accompanied by
the few officials in the place, came out after a while
to greet our Leader, as did also the veteran General
Cornelio Munoz, former Commander of the famous
Guardia de Honor, or Colorados de Paez, which un-
der the leadership of both these generals, performed
so many prodigies during the long struggle between
Koyalists and Patriots, which resulted in the final
overthrow of Spanish domination in Colombia. At
that epoch of historical interest to the friends of lib-
erty in America, Achaguas held the most conspicuous
position as the headquarters of the patriot armies, led
by the subject of the following remarks.

The arms of the republic were at first unsuccessful,
and Venezuela submitted to the government of the
mother country, the Spanish commander, Don Do-
mingo Mont eve rde, having triumphed over the patriot
forces in 1812. By this time, however, a new cham-
pion of the republican cause was rising in the south,
amidst the wild scenes I have endeavored to depict in
the foregoing pages. This champion was Captain
Jose A. Paez, then a youth of twenty Aprils, who
conceived the happy idea of collecting a horde of un-
disciplined Llaneros in the plains of Casanare to .op-
pose the overwhelming forces of Spain. His intimate
acquaintance with the country, and his thorough mas-
tery in all the sports of the Llaneros, admirably fitted
him to carry out his plans successfully. How he
came there, and by what means he acquired the re-
quisite proficiency for the arduous enterprise, the
following anecdote of his early career will explain.

OUR LEADER. 331

When seventeen years of age, an uncle of his, the
good Priest of Araure, his native place, entrusted him
with a large sum of money to deliver safely into the
hands of the curate of a distant parish, furnishing
him for the journey with a mule, an old pistol, and a
rusty sword ; for, even at that period of comparative
quiet and peace (1807) it was dangerous for a travel-
ler to venture over the roads alone, and carrying with
him the' temp ting metal. The future President of the
Republic, highly elated at the great confidence re-
posed in him, with the usual inexperience of youth,
spoke freely about his commission in the first inn he
stopped at to get his meals. The consequence of this
imprudence was, that shortly after he left the inn, he
was attacked on the road by three men, who, as a
matter of course, demanded la lolsa 6 la mda. The
youthful traveller, however, dismounted with the old
pistol in his hand already cocked, and now threaten-
ing one and then the other of his assailants, endeav-
ored to repel them. At last, being too closely pressed,
he fired the pistol at the nearest robber, with such
good aim that he killed his adversary on the spot,
while the fragments of the barrel, which burst at the
same time, struck another in the face. Then charging
resolutely upon the third bandit with the rusty sword,
he quickly put both to flight, leaving behind them
the corpse of their wretched comrade. Notwithstand-
ing the obvious propriety of his conduct on this oc-
casion, acting as he did in self-defence, the young
man feared the consequences ; he imagined himself
already accused, persecuted, without the means of
proving his innocence, and therefore determined to

332 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

hide himself by going into the interior of the plains,
hoping thus to escape a punishment which his error
made him regard as inevitable. Determined to gain
an honest livelihood, he sought employment on the
cattle farm of La Calzada, in the province of Barinas,
where he soon became inured to the fatigues of the
ranger's life ; acquiring at the same time, under the
tuition of a cruel negro majordomo, that proficiency
in horsemanship which later in life gave him the su-
periority over the enemy.

Proud and jealous -at the same time of his white
apprentice, whom he imagined had been sent there
by his master to spy his actions, the negro overseer
of La Calzada spared no opportunity to put to the
test the courage and strength of the future champion
of those plains, sometimes compelling him to break
in the most vicious horses, which often led him off for
days into the open fields ; at other times ordering
him away upon the most hazardous ventures of the
Llanos. "Not satisfied with this show of authority
over his pupil, the brutal black Mentor of young
Paez ended the fatigues of a hard day's labor by
ordering him to bring a pail of water and wash his
muddy feet ! But the tide of fortune soon changed ;
the whirlwind of revolution offered Paez a new field
of adventure, and the humble peon of La Calzada
rapidly gained the highest posts in the patriot army,
while the haughty overseer went to increase the ranks
of the opposing foe. In the course of events the ma-
jordomo was brought one day a prisoner to Paez,
who not only spared his life, but kept him always
near his person, his only revenge being to imitate the

OUR LEADER. 333

tone of liis former tyrant when calling upon young
Paez to exercise the functions of the slave : " Nino
Jose Antonio ! bring a bowl of water to wash my
feet ! " to which the old negro humbly replied, " I
see, nino, you have not forgotten your old tricks."

When the revolution broke out, on the 19th of
April, 1810, Paez enlisted in the militia of Barinas as
a common soldier, and soon after was promoted to
the rank of sergeant of cavalry. This, however, being
rather a slow process of promotion, he proceeded to
organize an independent body of cavalry, with which
he rendered important service to the cause of inde-
pendence. But the path of glory was not without
thorns, and our young leader found himself a pris-
oner in the hands of the merciless Spaniards, owing
his preservation, as it was then believed, to the influ-
ence of a miracle. In those days a war without quar-
ter was fiercely waged. The province of Barinas
having been again occupied by the royalist forces,
Paez fell into the hands of the cruel Puy, was thrown
into prison and ordered to be executed in the city
of Barinas the next day. At that time military ex-
ecutions of captured enemies were conducted by lead-
ing them out during the night to some lonely spot,
where they were despatched with the lance or the
sword. Paez and a number of his fellow-prisoners
were thus being led out one night, when he observed,
as he was leaving the prison, that he was uncovered ;
believing himself to be only going to make his deposi-
tion before the Governor, he requested his companion
in the cell to lend him his hat. The Spanish officer

334 TRAVELS AND ADYENTURES.

in charge of the mournful cortege, failing to recognize
him under this guise, ordered him back to be ex-
changed for the owner of the hat, who, he supposed,
was the identical " captain of the rebels." Thus he
obtained unwittingly a respite of one day. The fol-
lowing night he was awakened about eleven o'clock
by a great noise of horsemen and infantry in the
street. He imagined they were coming to lead him
and the rest of his fellow-prisoners to the place of ex-
ecution. He prepared, therefore, to die ; but Provi-
dence saved his life once more. The noise of arms
and horses in the street had been occasioned by an
alarm in consequence of information received by
Governor Puy, that a considerable army of patriots
was encamped on the banks of the Santo Domingo
river, on which Barinas is situated, and was about
marching on the city. Several parties, coming from
different directions, confirmed the information re-
ceived by the Governor, and the panic became gen-
eral. It was supposed that the patriots in large num-
bers intended to take the Spanish garrison by sur-
prise and seize upon the Governor. The latter, there-
fore, immediately abandoned Barinas with his forces,
leaving only a few men to guard the prison, for in his
hurry he had forgotten to execute the prisoners, as
he had done before on similar occasions. This was
the time for Paez to make a bold effort to save his
life. The next morning he embraced the opportunity,
broke his fetters, helped to release his fellow-prison-
ers, and overpowered one of the sentinels, who at-
tempted to oppose his escape. Paez then fled to put
himself once more at the head of a small band of

OUR LEADER. 335

patriots, to harass the enemy in the same province of
Barinas. On the morning succeeding the alarm, the
royalists could not discover an enemy for more than
fifty miles around the city. The alarm and panic oc-
casioned by the reported approach of an enemy in
the night, confirmed by so many persons, some of
whom had gone out to reconnoitre, and the most sin-
gular disappearance, or absence, of this host on the
following morning, gave rise to the popular belief,
existing to this day among the common people,
that the. life of Paez was saved by the friendly inter-
cession and miraculous appearance of an army of de-
parted spirits, known as the Ejercito de las Animas.
The next exploit of the future champion of the
Llanos took place amongst the rugged mountains of
Merida, to which point the remnants of the republican
forces were retreating after the disasters of 1814.
Utterly disheartened and surrounded on all sides by
enemies, they hardly knew which way to turn. The
column to which Paez belonged finding itself unex-
pectedly confronted on their march to Bailadores by a
superior force, made a stand at a place called Etanques,
while the enemy endeavored to gain the intermediate
heights. The road which led to these was a narrow
and deep cut on the sides of the steep mountain,
which did not permit a force to deploy on being at-
tacked ; observing which, Paez, who had no command
of his own, and only figured as an attache, to a small
body of cavalry under Capt. Antonio Rangel, who
commanded the advanced post, strenuously urged the
captain to pursue the royalists on their march ; Ran-

336 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

gel, however, contented himself with exchanging a few
shots with the latter, and returned to occupy his po-
sition. Unable to restrain himself, Paez, who rode
a spirited charger, dashed onward, making a great
noise, as if proceeding from many voices, discharging a
blunderbuss on the rear of the column, which killed
the sergeant. Alarmed with the voices and the re-
port of the gun, the royalists were seized with a sud-
den panic, and fled in consternation, throwing down
their arms, and upsetting everything and one another
in their precipitate flight, thus presenting an easier
mark to the terrible lance of their pursuer. The only
opposition encountered by the latter was from one
Jose Maria Sanchez, a man renowned for his courage
and much feared by the people of Merida, who com-
pelled Paez to dismount and struggle hard with him
for the possession of the exterminating weapon. Vic-
torious at last over his formidable antagonist, the
reckless champion remained complete master of the
field. It was then that Paez, once again free to act
according to his own judgment and. impulses, con-
ceived the idea of going through the centre of New
Granada to the plains of Casanare, south of the prov-
ince of Apure. This plan was the result of expe-
rience, which convinced him that the patriots could
not triumph, notwithstanding their unheard-of efforts,
while the Spaniards held possession of the plains and
controlled the supply of horses. The acquisition of
the Llanos gave the superiority to the Spaniards, as,
by means of it, they had a source of supplies and a

OUR LEADER. 337

safe retreat. Paez determined, therefore, to make
that wild region the base of his military operations,
and with this object organized a body of horsemen in
the plains of Casanare, which he soon after led into
the province of Apure.

In the language of another, " no man was better
calculated to command the love and respect of his
wild soldiery. Great bravery, a thorough knowledge
of localities, an affable and familiar treatment of his
followers, procured for Paez great popularity and
an unlimited sway over the minds of his men. He
was one of the best riders in a district of country cel-
ebrated for good horsemen, and understood the man-
agement of the lance, his favorite weapon, almost to
perfection. He possessed great bodily strength and
agility, and few could compete with him in the wild
sports of the Llaneros, or inhabitants of the immense
plains of Venezuela."

The Llanos are, in fact, a permanent camp of mil-
itary instruction for their intrepid inhabitants. Ac-
customed from their infancy to subdue the wild horse,
to master the wild bull, to swim across broad streams,
and to grapple in single combat with the crocodile,
the tiger and wild boar, the Llaneros learn to despise
danger. When the war turned them from their or-
dinary occupations, the enemy found them ready-
made soldiers. Inhabiting a genial atmosphere and
endowed with iron constitutions, their wants are
few and insignificant ; in peace, the lazo and the
horse ; in war, the horse and the lance. Perfectly
acquainted with the country and unencumbered with
heavy accoutrements, the dwellers of the Llanos can-

15

338 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

not be conquered except by men of the same region,
and Venezuela possesses in those limitless plains and
in the breasts of their valorous children, the strongest
bulwark of her national independence.

Paez, now master of his own military movements,
resolved to meet the enemy there, and, if possible, to
bring about an engagement. On the 16th of February,
1816, he commenced his march in pursuit of the roy-
alist chief, Don Francisco Lopez, and in three hours'
space met him at a place called Mata de la Miel, on
the right bank of the river Apure. The royalist leader
had two pieces of artillery and sixteen hundred men,
whom he drew up at once in order of battle. Paez's
forces amounted altogether to about six hundred cav-
alry. It was evening and the night fast advancing,
on which account many of the patriot officers were of
opinion that the engagement should be postponed un-
til the following day. This very reason, however, de-
termined the leader to enter at once into action, as he
feared that his soldiers, observing the great superior-
ity of the enemy in numbers, might take advantage
of the night to desert. Paez accordingly divided his
forces in two columns, placing the one, composed of
New Granadians, under command of Captain Genaro
Yasquez, and the other, composed of Yenezuelians,
under Captain Eamon Nonato Perez. The royalists
were completely routed, and during all that night and
the two following days the forces led by Paez pursued
and captured a great portion of those under Don
Francisco Lopez. Such was the action of Mata de la
Miel. There were left dead on the field four hundred
royalists, and a great number of prisoners were taken

OUR LEADER. 339

together with about three thousand five hundred
horses and nearly all the enemy's arms. Four months
afterward, in June, Lopez again crossed the Apure
with twelve hundred horsemen and four hundred in-
fantry, but Paez met him near Mantecal and com-
pelled him to retreat, after losing many men and
horses.

Notwithstanding these advantages on the part'of
the patriot forces, the result of the following cam-
paigns (1814, 1815, and 1816) was most disastrous to
the arms of the republic elsewhere ; Venezuela, New
Granada, and the plains of Casanare again fell into
the hands of the vengeful Spaniards. In 1816, a very
numerous emigration of patriots, consisting of men,
women, and children, in a state of great destitution
and suffering, fled to the wilderness from the persecu-
tion of the royalists, and took refuge in the camp of
Paez. Many persons of distinction were to be found
among the fugitives, and a system of government
was established for the regulation of affairs. A meet-
ing of officers was held at Arichuna, and Paez ap-
pointed supreme chief, with the rank of General of
Brigade. He applied himself immediately to raise
sufficient forces to oppose Don Francisco Lopez and
to N acquire, if possible, some resources in his extreme
want. The hardships and privations endured by the
patriot army on the plains can scarcely be conceived.
The soldiers were so destitute of clothing as to be
compelled to use for a covering the hides of the cattle
freshly killed ; very few had hats, none shoes. The
ordinary and only food was beef, without salt and
without bread. There were, in addition to all this,

34:0 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

continual rains, and the rivers and creeks had over-
flowed and covered over the country. They wanted
horses, and as these are indispensable to the Llaneros,
they must be obtained before any thing else. Only
wild horses could be procured, and they had to be
tamed and broken. This was done in squadrons, and
it was a curious spectacle to see five or six hundred
riders at a time struggling to subdue these wild an-
imals. Around the ground were stationed several
officers, mounted on well-trained horses, whose duty it
was to go after those which escaped from their riders,
to prevent them from carrying away the saddles, al-
though these were made of wood, with thongs of raw
hides. Many years after these scenes, an eye-witness
wrote : " We courted danger in order to put an end,
with honor, to such a miserable life." To provide
against this misery, Paez now turned his attention to
the nearest source of supply, Barinas, a city abound-
ing in all the commodities he stood most in need of.
Although nearly two hundred miles distant, the
patriot chieftain did not hesitate to invade his old
antagonist in the midst of the rainy season. The
undertaking could not, however, be executed without
great peril and hardships, he having to contend not
only against the inveterate enemies who occupied all
the approaches to the city, but against the inundation
of the savannas at the time. The expedition, more-
over, had to be conducted with great secrecy, avoid-
ing even the Jew channels left open in those inland
seas for the transit of men on horseback. ISTot in the
least deterred by obstacles so formidable in themselves,
Paez got together one thousand picked men, and two

OUR LEADER. 341

thousand white horses, animals of this color being re-
puted the best swimmers. With these, he crossed
the Apure and several other streams, then at the
height of their flood, being compelled besides to ford
extensive lagoons of various depths to avoid the nu-
merous gunboats of the enemy, stationed at all the im-
portant passes. On one of these, on the river Cana-
gua, the expedition was fortunate enough to capture
by surprise a gunboat and a large quantity of hides,
which were left behind with a strong guard for future
use. When near Barinas, Paez sent a detachment to
surprise also the town of Pedraza, to the south-east
of the capital, with the object of drawing the atten-
tion of the royalists in that direction. Ther ruse suc-
ceeded admirably ; the small detachment of men car-
ried every thing before them, penetrating as far as
the plaza, and then retreated, according to instruc-
tions, to rejoin the main body. Enraged at their
audacity, the Spanish commander at Barinas sent out
a large force in pursuit of the attacking party, thus
weakening his own force. Paez then advanced
against Barinas, disposing his line of march in single
file, each horseman followed by his spare horse, tied
to the tail of his own sumpter. The object of this
arrangement was to deceive the royalists also in re-
gard to the real numbers of the enemy, which from a
distance presented a very imposing appearance. Ba-
rinas is situated on the border of an extensive plain,
bounded on the south by the mesa of the same name,
through which Paez made his entry into the doomed
city when the sun was in the meridian. The dreaded
army of " departed spirits " did not produce a more

342 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

appalling consternation among the royalists than the
apparition of this unexpected body of ragged horse-
men. They knew full well that, owing to the over-
flow of the savannas, no advance could be made upon
the city from the south. They felt equally secure
against any attack from the north and from the east,
which were then entirely under their control, while
on the west they were still better protected by the
lofty Sierra Nevada. Without stopping to ascertain
the real character of the force before them, the royal-
ists collected together in a great hurry whatever val-
uables they prized most, and had already loaded
several mules with them, when the enemy, dashing
forward in full gallop, arrived in time to secure the
rich booty, after dispersing the owners and their
troops. The half-clad followers of Paez then fell
upon the stores and abandoned houses of the royalists
with the eagerness of men who had not seen a respect-
able garment in a long time. One of the officers was
fortunate enough to capture a mule loaded with thirty
thousand dollars in gold, while every man in the party
got more goods than he could carry.

Paez only remained a sufficient time at Barinas
to arrange the transportation of the booty, which took
up nearly all the spare horses brought along for this
purpose ; without these and the hides seized at Ca-
nagud, it would have been impossible to remove it to
the patriot camp in the wilderness. Owing to the
presence of a strong flotilla of gunboats at the mouth
of the river, the captured vessel had to be abandoned
after a while, and the wearisome route across the in-
undated savannas resumed by the returning caravan.

OUR LEADER. 343

The hides served the double purpose of covering
for the goods and lighters to ferry them over the
streams. This species of leather canoe is an inge-
nious contrivance frequently resorted to in those wild
regions wherever there is a scarcity of boats, and con-
sists in a bag or trough formed by passing a rope
through a number of holes round the rim of the hide,
and gathering it over the goods. One end of the
rope of sufficient length is then handed over to a good
swimmer, who takes it between his teeth and tows
the lighter after him. In this manner, the immense
booty obtained at Barinas was successfully trans-
ported over one hundred miles of inundated plains, to
the inconceivable joy of the wretched emigrants at the
camp of Arichuna.

After allowing his troop sufficient time to rest
from their fatigues, and finding it to his advantage to
resume the often si ve, at least to occupy the attention
of his soldiers, Paez commenced his march toward
Achaguas, although the season was still very severe.
The march was slow, as, besides the difficulties of the
road, they were encumbered by numerous emigrants,
and compelled, at every step, to procure supplies on
account of the want of stores. The great multitude
of men, women, and children, moving with the army,
represented to the life the picture of a nomadic people
without home or country, who, after consuming the
resources of the district they have occupied, raise
their tents to conquer another.* In this manner they

* Nevertheless, Paez took particular care to preserve the breed of
cattle on the plains of Apure. Notwithstanding that he was continually
engaged in war, he issued most effective orders to. prevent its extinc-

344 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

arrived at the sand hills or Medanos de Araguayuna,
where, having left the emigrants under the protection
of a resolute band of horsemen, Paez incorporated all
the men capable of bearing arms in his ranks, and
marched against Lopez, whom he supposed to be at
Achaguas. But after proceeding a' short distance, he
learned that the enemy, to the number of seventeen
hundred horsemen and four hundred infantry, was at
the cattle farm called Yagual. Paez then changed
his course and took his position between the enemy
and the city of Achaguas. His army was divided
into three columns, commanded by Generals Urda-
neta and Servier, and by Colonel Santander ; they
were nearly all armed with lances, very few with
muskets or carabines, and the supply of ammunition
was scanty. On the 8th of October, they came in
sight of the enemy, and although their number much
exceeded that of the patriot forces, Paez did not hesi-
tate to give them battle. The conflict was long and
severe, but it was decidedly in favor of the patriots.
Don Francisco Lopez was compelled to abandon his
position, after sustaining a severe loss ; on the next
day he refused to renew the battle, and fell back upon
Achaguas, having previously shipped on the river
Arauca all his artillery and wounded for San Fer-
nando. On the 13th, Lopez, having made a short
resistance, abandoned the town, of which Paez took
possession. Shortly after this, Lopez being attacked
by surprise on the banks of the Apure, was utterly

tion. The origin of all the cattle estates which are at present to be
found in Venezuela is to be traced to the Apure plains.

OUR LEADER. 345

defeated, his forces dispersed, and he himself lost his
life.

At the head of his brave soldiers, Paez rescued
the province of Apure, a part of that of Barinas, in
Venezuela, and recovered that of Casanare, in New
Granada. Having increased his force by the new
levies raised in these provinces and in others, he
formed that army which subsequently rendered such
important services in the cause of freedom, and whose
exploits have been so much admired.

It is not my purpose to enter here into a detailed
account of the events of that epoch ; the limits of this
chapter, and the relationship existing between the
author and the subject of this hasty sketch, preclude
the possibility of such an undertaking, especially when
better pens have compiled them in the Encyclopaedia
Britannica — articles, Colombia and Bolivar ; in the
American Cyclopaedia — articles, Paez and Venezue-
la ; also in Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela, and
various other works by English officers who served in
the ranks of the patriot armies at the time, to which
English and American readers of history are especially
referred for a more comprehensive view of that fearful
struggle. My object is to give my readers some idea
respecting the nature of that contest in that part of
Venezuela which, after years of unheard-of privations
and almost insurmountable difficulties, furnished at
last the elements which decided the fate of Colombia
upon the plains of Carabobo, Junin, and Boyaca.

Vain were, after this, the efforts of the Spanish

15*

346 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

invaders to destroy what they contemptuously called
the Gang of Apure, in their official documents. {Sev-
eral expeditions were despatched from Spain about
this time, under the command of the ablest generals,
and provided with all the material for a vigorous cam-
paign. One of these, led by Lieut.-General Don
Pablo Morillo, set sail from Cadiz on the 18th of
February, 1815. It consisted of sixty-five transport
ships and other smaller vessels, convoyed by the line-
of-battle ship San Pedro Alcantara (lost afterwards
during the blockade of the Island of Margarita), mount-
ing seventy-four guns. The total number of men
composing this expedition, including marines, amount-
ed to fifteen thousand. The ships carrying this for-
midable armament cast anchor, on the third of April,
1815, in Puerto Santo, to the windward of Carupano,
in Venezuela. Morillo, the commander of this ex-
pedition, was a brave, active, and energetic officer,
cool in action, a severe disciplinarian, and was beloved
by his soldiers. Besides this force, there was a royal-
ist army of five thousand men in Venezuela, com-
manded by Morales.

At first, General Morillo met with little or no op-
position, until, going to the interior, he encountered
the wild horsemen of the plains. The haughty tem-
per of the Spanish commander-in-chief could not bear
that a handful of demi- savages, as he was pleased to
style them, should insult the pennant of Castile any
longer, and he therefore prepared to capture every one
of them, with what results, the sequel of this narra-
tive will show.

OUR LEADER. 347

In the early part of January, 1817, the Spanish
commanders, La Torre and Calzada, effected a junc-
tion at Guasdualito, on the plains of Apure. Ahout
the same time, the royalist brigadier, Don Kamon
Correa, and Lieutenant-Colonel Don Salvador Gorrin,
left San Fernando, and with their cavalry and infantry
attacked the line of the patriots, and completely
routed Guerrero, the republican general, forcing him
to fall back upon Paez, after a bloody battle, in which
the patriots sustained a considerable loss. The siege
of San Fernando being raised in consequence of this
triumph, the attention of La Torre and Calzada was
directed to Paez, who presented the greatest obstacle
to their occupation of the river Apure and its adjacent
plains. An army of four thousand veteran soldiers
of all arms, including seventeen hundred of the cavalry
commanded by Colonel Remijio Ramos, presented a
force sufficient to inspire the Spanish commander with
confidence, particularly as La Torre, who was a brave
and accomplished soldier, was anxious to distinguish
himself among his companions in arms. He, there-
fore, marched to the town of San Yicente, following
the right bank of the river Apure, with the intention
of attacking Paez, who was then in Mantecal. On
the 28th of January, the patriots and royalists met
on the plain of Mucuritas ; the former, with a body
of cavalry amounting only to eleven hundred horse-
men, and the latter with the forces already men-
tioned. The result of the engagement was as unfor-
tunate to La Torre as it proved advantageous to the
patriots under Paez, who on this occasion made up
for his inferiority in numbers by means of a stratagem

348 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

which nearly resulted in the destruction of the entire
Spanish army. The order of battle adopted by the
royalist leader was the best which the nature of the
ground and the enemy he had to contend with would
permit ; his infantry presented a strong and compact
front, while his cavalry was posted on the wings and
on the rear. Paez having only cavalry, could not come
within the range of the enemy's muskets without
running the risk of being wholly destroyed ; and he
consequently conceived the idea of separating the
royalist horse from the infantry. The presumptuous
confidence of Colonel Kamos and the inexperience of
La Torre in the Llanero's tactics, facilitated the exe-
cution of Paez's plan. Having formed two columns
with a portion of his forces, Paez ordered them to at-
tack the enemy's flanks, and then immediately to re-
treat, as if they had been repulsed. His object was
to draw out the enemy's cavalry in the heat of the pur-
suit, and at once surround them with two other col-
umns, which he had ready prepared for that purpose.
This simple manoeuvre had the desired effect, and La
Torre's cavalry was speedily destroyed. The European
hussars alone escaped, because they advanced with less
precipitancy and in better order. The republican
leader now ordered the dry grass of the plain to be set
on fire, and it instantly became a sea of flame. For-
tunately for La Torre, his infantry retreating precipi-
tately in close column, succeeded in reaching a spot
which had been burned some time before. Even
there his infantry sustained several charges from Paez's
cavalry, compelling him ultimately to seek a refuge
in a dense wood on the right bank of the Apure,

OUR LEADER. 349

where the pursuit ceased for want of infantry on the
part of the patriots. Of this battle, General Morillo
wrote : " Fourteen consecutive charges upon my
wearied battalions convinced me that these men were
not a small gang of cowards, as had been represented
to me/' On the following morning Morillo joined
La Torre, and continued with him his march to San
Fernando without crossing the Apure, and always in
sight of the republican cavalry ; Paez finally perceiv-
ing that the enemy avoided a new engagement, retired
to San Juan de Payara.

In 1817, General Bolivar appeared in the province
of Guayana, and his first effort was to open his com-
munication with Paez, who did not hesitate to recog-
nize his authority, although widely separated from the
Liberator's head quarters.

From this period the patriots began to extend
their operations ; a series of brilliant actions took
place at various points, and the republican cause ap-
peared to revive on the line of the Apure and the
Orinoco rivers. The acquisition of Guayana under
Piar was an important and decisive event in the his-
tory of the war ; by means of it, Bolivar was in a situ-
ation to harass the posts occupied by the royalists, on
any point of the immense line embraced by the Ori-
noco and its numerous tributaries.

In the latter part of January, 1818, Bolivar joined
him with two thousand five hundred disciplined
troops, among them the famous British legion lately
arrived, increasing the republican forces to about ten
thousand infantry and the same number of cavalry,
which last was composed of well-trained men, accus-

350 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tomed to victory on the plains of Apure. The plan
of the campaign having been arranged between Bo-
livar and Paez, they resolved to cross over the river
Apure and march forthwith on Calabozo, where Mo-
rillo had established his headquarters. But here a
great difficulty presented itself ; the patriot forces
had no boats in which to cross that broad and deep
river. It was then that Paez conceived and executed
the extraordinary plan of capturing with cavalry the
gun-boats of the enemy stationed on the river, oppo-
site the point toward which they were marching. An
eye-witness and impartial foreigner, attached to the
British Legion, thus describes this hazardous under-
taking : " Bolivar stood on the shore gazing at
(the gun-boats) in despair, and continued discon-
solately parading in front of them, when Paez, who
had been on the look-out, rode up and inquired the
cause of his disquietude. His Excellency observed,
'I would give the world to have possession of the
Spanish flotilla, for without it I can never cross the
river, and the troops are unable to march/ e It
shall be yours in an hour/ replied Paez. ( It is impos-
sible/ said Bolivar, c and the men must all perish/
' Leave that to me/ rejoined Paez, and galloped oft7.
In a few minutes he returned, bringing up his guard
of honor, consisting of 300 lancers selected from the
main body of the Llaneros, for their proved bravery
and strength, and leading them to the bank, thus
briefly addressed them : ' We must have these fle-
cheras, or die. Let those follow Tio* who please/

* Uncle. A name by which the Llaneros quently address Paez.

OUR LEADER. 351

And at the same moment, spurring his horse, dashed
into the river and swam towards the flotilla. The
guard followed him with their lances in their hands,
now encouraging their horses to bear up against the
current by swimming by their sides and patting their
necks, and then shouting to scare away the alligators,
of which there were hundreds in the river, till they
reached the boats, when, mounting their horses, they
sprang from their backs on board them, headed by
their leader, and, to the astonishment of those who
beheld them from the shore, captured every one of
them. To English officers, it may appear incon-
ceivable that a body of cavalry, with no other arms
than their lances, and no other mode of conveyance
across a rapid river than their horses, should attack
and take a fleet of gun-boats amidst shoals of alliga-
tors ; but, strange as it may seem^ it was actually
accomplished, and there are many officers now in
England who can testify to the truth of it."

The unprejudiced author of this narrative, which
I am compelled to shorten for want of space, then
adds : — " In short, he is altogether a most wonderful
man ; and were the numerous and extraordinary in-
cidents of his life to be formed into a narrative, it
would have more the semblance of romance than
authentic biography. He is, above all things, a sin-
cere patriot, and certainly a bright ornament to his
country."*

* Recollections of a Service of Three Years during the War of Exter-
mination in the Republics of Venezuela and Colombia. London, 1828.
See also Campaigns and Cruises in Venezuela. London, 1831.

352 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

This dangerous manoeuvre was performed at a
distance of two miles from San Fernando, which,
from that moment, was cut off from all communi-
cation with Morillo. The patriot army being thus
provided with the means of transportation across the
Apure, a "body of cavalry was immediately despatch-
ed in the direction of the road leading to Calabozo,
and succeeded in capturing by surprise a party of
twenty-five men, who composed the advanced post
of the enemy. In consequence of this manoeuvre,
Morillo was also taken by surprise on the llth of
February, at a time when his hussars and a portion
of the battalion of Castille were at a place called
Mision de Abajo, about three miles to the south of
Calabozo. Only a few men from both regiments,
with a Colonel, succeeded in making their escape to
the intrenchments in the city. The sturdy veteran,
Morillo, could not believe the report of his Colonel,
that the whole patriot army was marching upon
him. Haughtily accusing that officer of cowardice,
he sallied forth in person with his staff to reconnoitre
what he supposed to be a band of guerrillas ; but he
himself had to flee for safety into the city, narrowly
escaping death through the stoical heroism of his in-
sulted Colonel, who threw himself between the Com-
mander-in-chief and the lance of one of Paez's staff
officers.

Instead of investing the royalists at once, Bolivar
committed the error of encamping for the night with
all his troops at the village of El Kastro, about
four miles this side of Calabozo. Morillo improved

OUR LEADER 353

this opportunity to abandon the city under cover of
night, and fell back on Caracas, by the mountainous
route of El Sombrero, where the patriots could not
follow him on account of the inferiority of their in-
fantry. Paez then returned to the Apure, while Bol-
ivar remained with the bulk of the army, to be soon
after entirely annihilated at La Puerta by the royalist
General. But the Genius of the Andes was untiring
in his efforts to see his country, and the rest of the
South American Continent, free from European op-
pression.

On the 16th January, 1819, Bolivar joined Paez
again at San Juan de Payara with a newly organized
corps (Tarmee, and their united forces amounted to
four thousand men. Bolivar, as a recompense for the
important services rendered by Paez to his country,
raised him to the rank of General of Division, and
left him in command of all the forces, while he pro-
ceeded to Angostura, where Congress was to meet in
February. About this time the royalist Generals,
Morillo and La Torre, also joined their forces at San
Fernando, amounting in all to six thousand five hun-
dred men of all arms. With these they immediately
proceeded to attack the patriots at San Juan in the
beginning of February. Paez retreated toward the
Orinoco, transported all his infantry to the island of
LTrbana, and took up a position, with his guard and
two squadrons of carabineers, at Cunaviche ; the re-
mainder of his horsemen he stationed on the plains
of Rio Claro, and a most cumbersome emigration of
ten thousand patriot refugees, that followed his camp,
was taken to Araguaquen. The plan adopted by

354 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Paez on this occasion was precisely the same as the
one always practised by him in former campaigns ;
yet the royalist General was so infatuated by his
eagerness to destroy the " Grang of Apure/' that he
was easily led away into the wilderness before he was
conscious of his danger. On the llth of February
Morillo forced the pass of the river Arauca, and the
patriots fell back, keeping their adversary under ob-
servation ; at night, however, they retraced their
steps, and in the morning appeared situated at a short
distance in the opposite direction. Morillo counter-
marched, and for many days wandered over that wil-
derness, renewing his efforts to overtake an enemy
which kept constantly before him, like the mirage of
the desert, and which did him great injury by driving
away the cattle. The only means he could employ to
overtake his opponent and force him to battle, was
to use his cavalry ; but this jeopardized the only
force which procured the subsistence of the army, and
might thus compromise its safety. Not even at night
were the royalists allowed to rest in peace. On one
occasion Paez caused a number of wild horses to be
brought before the enemy's camp, and tying dry hides
to the animals' tails, they were stampeded with shouts
and shots towards the encampment. Imagining them-
selves attacked by the whole Llanero cavalry, the roy-
alists sprang to their arms and opened fire on the
affrighted horses, which caused that night more alarm
and confusion among them than the two thousand
oxen which Hannibal hurled against the Eoman camp.
At length, convinced of the inutility of his efforts,

OUR LEADER. 355

Morillo recrossed the Arauca, and in the early part of
March established his headquarters at Achaguas.

On the first day of April, General Morillo again
resumed the offensive, marching along the left bank
of the Arauca and approaching the position occupied
on the right bank by Generals Paez and Bolivar ; the
latter had recently returned from the Congress at
Angostura, where he had been elected President of
the Republic, and resumed the command in chief of
the army. Morillo made several feigned movements
to the right and to the left, as if he wished to cross
the river, and at noon of the 2d, took up his posi-
tion nearly opposite' that of Bolivar, out of range of
the cannon. For the purpose of drawing him forth,
General Paez crossed the river with one hundred and
fifty horsemen, composed mostly of officers who vol-
unteered for the hazardous undertaking ; with these
he formed three small columns and advanced upon
the enemy. Morillo immediately put all his forces in
motion ; his infantry and artillery commenced firing,
while the cavalry charged upon the small band of
patriots, hoping to overpower by numbers the weak
columns of the enemy ; he himself directed his course
toward the bank of the river. Paez, in the mean
time, retreated in order, purposely leaving the pass
of the river on his rear. Morillo, observing this, and
supposing him inevitably lost, detached from the
army all the cavalry in pursuit of Paez, and directed
his fire upon the right bank, defended by some light
troops. As soon, however, as the republican General
perceived that the enemy's horse were at a consider-
able distance from the army, and in disorder, he faced

35G TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

about suddenly, attacked his pursuers in front and on
the flanks, in small groups of twenty men, and with-
out giving them time to recover from their astonish-
ment or to re-form the lines, he routed them, oc-
casioning great loss. In Tain they made the most
obstinate resistance — in vain the carabineers dis-
mounted— all their efforts were useless ; disconcerted
and taken by surprise, all those who opposed the
vigorous attack were killed upon the spot. The vic-
tors pursued the remnants of the force as far as the en-
emy's lines, slaying all whom they overtook. Their
infantry, thrown into confusion, sought refuge in the
woods, the artillery ceased firing, and night pre-
vented the further destruction of the royalist army.
On the day following this encounter, Bolivar issued
a decree, conferring the cross of Liberators (Liberta-
dores) on all the officers, sergeants, corporals, and sol-
diers, who fought in this engagement, known in his-
tory by the name of Queseras del Medio ; while the
following proclamation announced to the army the
success recently obtained by the republican arms :

SIMON BOLfVAR PRESIDENT, ETC., ETC.

" To the Heroes of the Army of Apure :

" SOLDIERS ! You have just performed the most
extraordinary action that can be recorded in the mili-
tary history of nations — one hundred and fifty men, or,
rather, one hundred and fifty heroes, led on by the
undaunted General Paez, have deliberately attacked
in front the whole Spanish army, under Morillo ;

OUR LEADER. 357

artillery, infantry, cavalry, nothing availed to de-
fend the enemy from the hundred and fifty com-
panions of the intrepid Paez. The columns of their
cavalry have disappeared under the strokes of our
lances ; their infantry sought a shelter in the woods ;
the roar of their cannon was silenced before the breasts
of our horses, and only the darkness of night preserved
the army of the tyrant from complete and absolute
destruction.

" Soldiers ! The deed you have performed is but
the prelude of what you can accomplish. Prepare
then for the combat, and reckon on victory, which you
carry on the point of your lances and bayonets.

" BOLIVAR.

"HEAD-QUARTERS AT POTRERITOS MARRERENOS, April 3, 1819."

After this engagement, Morillo, finding himself
again deprived of his cavalry in the heart of the sa-
vannas, retreated precipitately to Achaguas, and
finally to San Fernando, which place he fortified
strongly, and recrossing the Apure, sought a more ad-
vantageous position against the attacks of his hover-
ing enemy.

The engagement of Queseras del Medio was the
precursor of new plans and bold projects, combined
between Bolivar and Paez. The plains of Venezuela,
being now entirely rescued from the enemy, these two
Generals arranged the dangerous and important ex-
pedition that was to give freedom to New Grana-
da. Paez had the honor accorded him of choosing
which of the two should command the expedition.
They both agreed that Bolivar should march into New

358 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Granada, and that Paez should preserve, at all risks,
the possession of the plains of Apure. Victory
crowned the republican arms in New Granada, and
Paez resolutely and successfully defended the im-
portant territory confided to his care and protection.

On the 17th December, 1819, Venezuela and New
Granada. were united into one great republic, under the
name of Colombia, with a territory embracing nearly
500,000 square miles.

The year 1821 is celebrated for the important vic-
tory obtained by the republican army, under Bolivar
and Paez, on the field of Carabobo, which secured
Venezuela to the patriots. General Bolivar's forces
amounted to 6,000 men. Only the first division of
the army, commanded by Paez, took part in the
battle. This division was composed of the gallant
British Legion, already alluded to, the battalion
of Apure, and 1,500 horsemen. The field of Cara-
bobo is a vast and open plain, lying in a southerly
direction from Valencia. An army endeavoring to
enter this plain from Tinaquillo, as the patriot army
was attempting to do, is obliged, after passing the
river Chirgua, to penetrate over the defile called Buena
Yista, lying to the northeast. This defile is a formi-
dable position, on which a few men can easily arrest
the progress of an army. If this pass be gained, and
the many obstructions be overcome, which an enemy
can easily oppose over a rough and craggy road of
considerable length, there still remains a narrow val-
ley to be traversed, formed by hills, which constitute
the entrance on the west to the plain of Carabobo ;
here the level ground commences. General La Torre,

OUR LEADER.

the Spanish commander, had stationed in the valley
and on both sides on the hills commanding it, several
pieces of artillery, as well as strong bodies of infantry.
On the plain near the opening of the valley the ex-
tended line of infantry was deployed in order of bat-
tle, with its right resting upon a thicket ; next fol-
lowed another line, and between the flanks of both,
there were two strong bodies of cavalry. The second
line of battle had on its left the road to El Pao, and
the cavalry on the same side was stationed on the
brow of a hill over which that road passes ; the sum-
mit of the hill was occupied by a battalion. Such
was the military position of the Spanish forces, amount-
ing on this occasion to 9,000 men. On the 24th of
June, the patriot General occupied the defile, and
from that place observed the position of the enemy.
The narrow road pursued by Bolivar allowed him
only the room necessary to file off, and the Spaniards
not only guarded the outlet into the plain, but com-
manded the valley with their artillery and a large
body of infantry. The position was impregnable.
It was therefore resolved that General Paez, with
considerable risk and difficulty, should penetrate
through a foot-path but little known, and turn the
enemy's right. This path was extremely hazardous.
It begins at the high road leading to San Carlos, to
the west of the valley ; goes over the top of a small
hill covered with woods, which was commanded by
the Spanish artillery, and leads into a ravine where
the men were compelled to pass singly, because it
was very rough and full of brambles and briars.
When the enemy discovered the movement of the

300 . TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

advancing forces under Paez, he directed part of his
own against the latter, and some of his battalions
came up to the ravine, as the patriot battalion of
Apure was beginning to pass it, and a vigorous firing
commenced and was continued on both sides. The re-
publican corps at last succeeded in passing the ravine,
but no longer able to sustain singly the enemy's
charge, was already giving way, when the British
Legion came up to their support. The enemy had by
this time brought into action four of his best bat-
talions, against only one of the patriots. But the
gallant Britons now filed off and formed in order of
battle, under a murderous fire, with almost super-
human coolness, and kneeling down, they could not
be made to yield an inch of ground. Almost all its
officers were either killed or wrounded ; but the service
rendered by those brave foreigners was great indeed.
Their heroic firmness gave time for the battalion of
Apure to rally and return to the charge, while two
companies of Tiradores, led on by the gallant Heras,
came also into the action. The enemy at last yielded
under the simultaneous charge of the bayonet made
by these different corps and fell back upon the caval-
ry for support. By this time the body-guard of Gen-
eral Paez, six hundred strong, had passed the ravine,
and charging the enemy's horse on the rear of its
columns, routed them completely and decided the
action on that memorable day. Only one battalion,
the famous Yalencey, successfully repelled the furious
charges of the patriot cavalry, which pursued the
royalists as far as Valencia. General La Torre, with
the remnant of his forces, shut himself up in the forti-

OUR LEADER.

fications of Puerto Cabello, which were finally carried
by assault on the 7th of November in the same year
by General Paez.

The victory gained at Carabobo was complete and
brilliant, decisive of the fate of the republic, and
glorious to the brave soldiers of Apure, whose favored
leader was raised by Bolivar to the rank of General-in-
chief on the field of battle — an appointment which
was subsequently ratified by Congress " in acknowl-
edgment of his extraordinary valor and military vir-
tues." How he afterwards became Supreme Chief of
Venezuela ; twice President of the Kepublic : was
banished by a turbulent party calling themselves
Liberales, narrowly escaping with his life to the
United States of America, from whence, after an exile
of ten years, he was recalled, and placed again at the
head of the nation by popular acclamation ; became
thoroughly disgusted with the unruly disposition of his
countrymen, and returned to end his days in

"The land of the free and the home of the brave ; "

he has fully recounted in his Autobiography,* re-
cently published in this country.

* Autobiografia del General Jose A. Paez. Nueva York, 1867.

*

16

CHAPTER XXIV.

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APUKITO.

WHEN we were apprised that every tiling was
ready at the pass, we moved on from San Pablo
with the horses, the cattle following behind by easy
marches, to allow them sufficient time to graze on the
rich herbage by the way.

On our arrival at Apurito, we found the river
quite swollen with the recent showers and already
extending from bank to bank. The first business was
to select among our men and horses the strongest and
most capable of enduring the fatigue and of guiding
through the boisterous waves of the Apure the various
lots into which the cattle were divided for the pur-
pose. Our next step was to assemble at the pass a
sufficient number of canoes with expert paddlers to
act in concert with the leading men and horses, by
flanking the swimmers in the river. Two long pali-
sades, running parallel down to the bank of the river
and narrowing toward the water, had already been
constructed ; through these the animals, in lots of
two hundred at a time, were driven at full speed,

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 333

with deafening shouts and earnest goading, while two
men, stripped naked and mounted on two spirited
horses without saddles, headed the movement, plung-
ing headlong into the river pell-mell with the cattle,
which were thus encouraged to swim across. A herd
of tame animals was stationed on the opposite shore
to incorporate the swimmers as they came out of the
water. Having done this, the leaders swam back to
procure another lot of animals, a feat they performed
for about twenty successive times in the course of the
day. Nevertheless, the task was not so easily accom-
plished as was practised with the horses ; for it often
happened that the bulls became quite refractory and
pugnacious, in which case the men in the canoes
were obliged to hold them by the horns, dragging
them along by main force as they paddled on ; at
other times the beasts got alongside of the leading
men and horses, and then the danger to both was im-
minent, the bulls attacking them in the water ; thus
many valuable horses were killed by these infuriated
animals, while the men had several narrow escapes.
"What with savage bulls, electric eels, crocodiles and
caribes — not to mention other pernicious creatures of
the waters and the broad expanse of the river before
them — the task of these bold adventurers is truly ap-
palling ; yet they go to work and accomplish their
task with a willing heart and a perfect nonchalance
of every thing around them. The same might be
said also in regard to the noble steeds which share
with them the dangers of the river, acting at the
same time the part of floating bridges to the men,
and as decoys to the cattle during the passage. Their

364: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

powers of endurance, in this instance, are the more
surprising, inasmuch as they are not allowed even a
few moments' rest after they land, being kept in
constant motion the whole day.

A number of horsemen with lazos were also sta-
tioned along the shore to secure those bulls which,
eluding the vigilance of the men in the canoes, suc-
ceeded in regaining the land ; many were drowned,
however, in the attempt, and their carcasses aban-
doned to the turkey-buzzards, from an inherent dis-
gust among the people of the Llanos for the flesh of
animals which have not been killed in the usual way.
On one or two occasions, the whole troop rebelled
against their drivers and succeeded in making their
escape to their pasture fields, in spite of the horsemen
on shore ; others, after reaching the sloping banks
across the river below the pass, were arrested in their
flight by the overhanging cliffs, and finally hurled to
a watery grave by the rapid rise of the river.

Thus the cost of these expeditions, although ex-
ceedingly interesting to those participating in the ex-
citement, is sometimes greater than the profits arising
therefrom, and none but Llaneros, who are accus-
tomed to live on beef and water, ought to indulge in
this truly savage business. Our loss in horses alone,
without reckoning the expenses of the expedition and
the danger to flesh and bone, amounted on this occa-
sion to about thirty animals, which in round figures,
setting the value of every horse at the minimum price
of one hundred dollars, would make the sum of three
thousand dollars ; while the value of the cattle itself,
many of which were also lost to us, could hardly be

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO.

365

set down at five dollars a head at that epoch. One
of the horses was so valuable, that our Leader re-
quested the Doctor to attend the wounded animal and
endeavor to save his life if possible. On examination,
it was found that his bowels were partly forced out
through the wound ; but as he would not allow any
body to touch him, it was resolved to tie his feet ;
then passing a pole through the legs of the animal, he
was lifted from the ground in a reverse position, to
allow the Doctor to operate more conveniently. It
was already very dark, and the group of Llaneros
lifting the patient, with others holding up lighted
torches made of rags and tallow, and the humorous
Esculapius leaning over the struggling beast, pre-
sented a scene ludicrous in the extreme. In spite of
the skill with which he performed the operation, and
the humane care of the owner, the horse expired the
same night.

366 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Three whole days were spent in the laborious oc-
cupation of forcing the cattle across the river. Nor
were the nights less diligently employed at the village
in the more entertaining recreation of dancing, flirt-
ing and gambling, according to the tastes and inclina-
tions of our motley assembly. It must be confessed,
however, that the latter had more incentives for the
people of that pastoral region than the shepherd's
reed and crook. Occasionally a fight would occur
during these nocturnal revelries ; but this, beyond
some hard words and brandishing of swords and dag-
gers by moonlight, which rather added to the pictur-
esqueness of the scene, never ended in any thing very
serious.

" Calo el cliapeo, requirio la espada,
Miro al soslayo, fuese y no hubo nada."

The river was now rising so rapidly, that in order
to reach our camp in the neighborhood of the village,
we were obliged to place canoes across the main
street leading to it, for fear of coming in contact with
any of the numerous tenants of that stream. About
this time the fish, conscious of the approaching inun-
dation of the savannas, commence to ascend the river
in search of those places best suited for spawning ;
and so great is the number of those that seek a nup-
tial rendezvous, that the noise they make in the
water can be heard at some distance from the river.
During their migration the water becomes so tainted
with their flavor, that it is unfit to drink or wash in.
Desirous of obtaining some live specimens for sketch-
ing, I procured a tarraya^ or throw net, which I re-
quested one of our men to launch near the bank ; he

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 367

did so ; but when he tried to lift it, he found it im-
possible unassisted, which made us fear that the net
had got entangled among snags at the bottom of the
river. A companion was called to our assistance, and
between us three, we soon brought it up, when, to my
astonishment and delight, I found the net full of cop-
oros, palometas, and other delicacies ; the caribes,
however, soon rendered it perfectly useless, which
circumstance I considered a misfortune, as I could
not keep the fish long without spoiling. Next day I
was advised by one of the villagers to place three or
four canoes, partly filled with water, across the stream ;
the fish, finding their progress arrested by the obstruc-
tion, endeavored to jump over ; in doing which they
fell in the canoes by hundreds. The contrivance suc-
ceeded so well, that every morning I could depend
on a plentiful supply, both for my sketch-book and
the frying-pan. My attention was particularly at-
tracted this time by a large fish called the valenton,
from its great strength which, as I was informed,
enables him to drag a canoe after him when caught
with the hook and line. A distressing occurrence
took place there which nearly cost the life of a young
man while engaged in fishing for the valenton. The
angler and a friend were engaged in conversation,
with their lines thrown carelessly over the sides of
the canoe, when the fish seized the bait and ran off,
as he is in the habit of doing. The jerk was so vio-
lent, that the young man was unable to hold the line,
and allowed it to slip through his hands ; he was not
aware that at the end of the line there was another
hook, which buried itself in the thumb of his right

368 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

hand ; the next moment he was violently pitched in
the water and dragged for some distance, when for-
tunately the line broke, and he was picked up almost
insensible by his companion. During its gambols in
the river, the valenton jumps sometimes three feet
clear out of the water, raising a large volume of
spray and striking the surface with its powerful tail
in its fall ; so great is the splash, that the noise can
be heard a great distance off, especially in the still-
ness of the night, when the fish seems to be more
busily engaged in hunting.

The payara also delights at this time in those
jumps so much dreaded by fishermen,* and even by
people wearing any red garment about their persons ;
for this fish, like the caribe, is said to be attracted by
that color, just as wild bulls are ; so much so that
it often happens that one of them springs on people
thus attired in the canoes; though it always pays
dearly for its temerity, as, in consequence of the pecu-
liar structure of its jaws, the fish cannot disentangle
itself from the garment, to which it remains attached
until released by the hand of its intended victim, who
is very glad of the chance thus unexpectedly thrown
in his way, for the payara is a most delicious fish,
often weighing twenty and thirty pounds, and withal
very beautiful. Of this savage propensity people
avail themselves to capture this fish without hook or
line, on the large rivers, such as the Apure and Ori-
noco, where they seem to be most daring ; a piece of

* See page 62.

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 369

red flannel, or some other strong material, tied to the
end of a long rod, being sufficient for the sport : the
tempting bait is held over the side of the canoe a few
inches above the surface of the water, and no sooner
does the fish perceive the alluring decoy, than with one
spring it seizes it and remains as firmly attached to
it, as if held by an iron bolt ; for in addition to its
formidable row of teeth, which are long and sharp as
needles, the payara has on the lower jaw two very
much elongated fangs that penetrate the head through
corresponding passages in it which allow the points to
protrude close to the eyes of the fish, and unless it
tears off the piece, as it often does to the naked and
arnatto-stained Indian while paddling his canoe, the
payara perishes by its own arms.

Among the many eventful incidents of la Inde-
pendencia still fresh in the memory of our Leader,
he relates an anecdote in connection with the Liberia-
dor^ Simon Bolivar, in which both these champions
of freedom participated while engaged on an im-
portant reconnoissance during the rainy season. The
savannas being, as usual, overflowed for the most part,
and there being no other means of transportation than
the frail canoes of the country, the two chieftains were
compelled to travel in one of these over their inundated
domain, with the assistance of two Indian paddlers.
Fish were so numerous, that numbers of them, dis-
turbed by the strokes of the paddles against the sides
of the canoe, jumped in all directions, while not a few
fell amidst the distinguished passengers. The Liber-
tador who, like almost all great men, had also his
weak points, possessed a very nervous temperament,

16*

370 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

especially about little things ; therefore he felt quite
uneasy at the unceremonious intrusion from the finny
inhabitants of his swampy realms, whose movements
he mistook for a mischievous propensity on their part
to attack the wayfarer. On the other hand, our
Leader, who was always ready to practise a good joke,
seized the opportunity to occasionally tip the canoe so
as to make it ship water, and more fish along with it.
Whereupon his companion, who was not aware of the
trick practised upon him, imagining that the fish were
becoming bolder as they advanced, exclaimed in utter

despair, " D n it ! Companero, let us pull back, for

even the fish are savage in this country."

When the waters subside, thousands, nay, millions
remain struggling in the ponds and little pools, left on
the savannas, where they soon perish and rot away,
tainting the air with their effluvium. Some of them,
like the curito, a species of Silurus, covered with trans-
verse plates surrounding the body, have the power of
living buried in the indurated mud, from whence they
are called to life again by the returning showers.
As they form a most delicious mess, they are eagerly
sought by men and women, who resort to these places
armed with wicker baskets, and collect great numbers
of the fish before they are carried away by the in-
creasing inundation of the savannas.

A very singular belief, shared likewise, according
to Sir Emerson Tennent, by the people of Ceylon,
exists in the Apure respecting fish falling from the
clouds. Alluding to this phenomenon, that ingenious
writer observes : " Both at Galle and Colombo in the
southwest monsoon, fish are popularly believed to

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO.

have fallen from the clouds during violent showeis ;
but those found on the occasions that give rise to this
belief, consist of smallest fry, such as could be caught
up by water-spouts and vortices analogous to them,
or otherwise blown on shore from the surf ; whereas
those which suddenly appear in the replenished tanks
and in the hollows which they overflow, are mature
and well-grown fish. Besides, the latter are found
under the circumstances I have described, in all parts
of the interior, whilst the prodigy of a supposed fall
of fish from the sky has been noticed, I apprehend,
only in the vicinity of the sea or of some inland
water."

Although the author further explains the phenom-
enon on the supposition that some fish are endowed
with the power of locomotion over land, while others
in a torpid state remain buried in the mud until the
return of the rainy season ; yet, I have been assured
by reliable persons that live fish have been picked up
in places where no such possible contingencies could
occur ; for instance, upon the roofs of houses or amidst
wide plains far from running water. Most of those
thus found are small, from three to seven inches
long ; but none of them capable of living more than
twenty minutes out of water ; and the father of the
writer once even witnessed a fall of bocacliicos, a fish
which seldom lives over five minutes out of its own
element.

In support of these views, which were embodied
in my Wild Scenes in South America, I now have
the pleasure of adding the testimony of no less an

372 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

authority than Gosse, who has collected a number
of authentic examples of this phenomenon in his
Eomance of Natural History. According to his
statements, fish-showers have occurred in all parts
of the world, not even excepting his own country —
England, — where, early in 1859, the newspapers of
South Wales recorded a shower of fish in the Valley
of Aberdare. The repeated statements attracted
more notice than usual, and the Rev. John Griffith,
the vicar of the parish, communicated the results of
his inquiries to the Evening Mail.

" If now we look to other lands/' continues the
author, " we shall find that the descent of fishes from
the atmosphere, under conditions little understood,
is a phenomenon which rests on indubitable evidence.
Humboldt has published interesting details of the
ejection of fish in large quantities from volcanoes in
South America. On the night between the 19th and
20th of June, 1698, the summit of Carguairazo, a
volcano more than 19,000 feet in height, fell in, and
the surrounding country for nearly thirty-two square
miles was covered with mud and fishes. A similar erup-
tion of fish from the volcano of Imbabura was supposed
to have been the cause of a putrid fever which raged
in the town of Ibarra seven years before that period/'

This is accounted for on the supposition that sub-
terraneous lakes, communicating with surface-waters,
form in cavities in the declivities, or at the base of a
volcano. In the course of time these internal cavities
are burst open by the force of the volcanic explosions,
and their contents discharged through the water.

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 373

But the most extraordinary account recorded by
Gosse is that of Dr. Buist, of Bombay, who, after
enumerating the cases above cited; and others of
similar character, goes on to say : — "In 1824 fishes
fell at Meerut on the men of her Majesty's 14th
Kegiment, then out at drill, and were caught in num-
bers. In July, 1826, live fish were seen to fall on the
grass at Moradabad during a storm. They were the
common Cyprinus, so prevalent in our Indian waters.
On the 19th of February, 1830, at noon, a heavy fall
of fish occurred at the Nokulhatty factory, in the
Daccah Zillah ; depositions on the subject were ob-
tained from nine different parties. The fish were all
dead ; most of them were large ; some were fresh ;
others were rotten and mutilated. They were seen
at first in the sky, like a flock of birds, descending
rapidly to the ground ; there was rain drizzling, but
no storm. On the 16th and 17th of May, 1833, a
fall of fish occurred in the Zillah of Foottehpoor,
about three miles north of Jumna, after a violent
storm of wind and rain. The fish were from a pound
and a half to three pounds in weight, and the same
species as those found in the tanks in the neighbor-
hood. They were all dead and dry. A fall of fish
occurred at Allahabad during a storm in May, 1835 ;
they were of the chowla species, and were found dead
and dry after the storm had passed over the district.
On the 20th of September, 1839, after a smart shower
of rain, a quantity of fish, about three inches in
length, and all of the same kind, fell at the Sunder-
bunds, about twenty miles south of Calcutta. On

374: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

this occasion it was remarked that the fish did not
fall here and there irregularly over the ground, but in
a continuous straight line, not more than a span in
breadth. The vast multitudes of fish with which the
low grounds around Bombay are covered, about a
week or ten days after the first burst of the mon-
soon, appear to be derived from the adjoining pools
or rivulets, and not to descend from the sky. They
are not, as far as I know, found in the higher parts
of the island. I have never seen them, though I
have watched carefully, in casks collecting water from
the roofs of buildings, or heard of them on the decks
or awnings of vessels in the harbor, where they must
have appeared had they descended from the sky.
One of the most remarkable phenomena of this kind
occurred during a tremendous deluge of rain at Katty-
war, on the 25th of July, 1850, where the ground around
Kajkote was found literally covered with fish ; some
of them were found on the top of haystacks, where
probably they had been drifted by the storm. In the
course of twenty-four successive hours twenty-seven
inches of rain fell ; thirty-five fell in twenty-six hours,
seven inches in one hour and a half, being the heaviest
fall on record. At Poonah, on the 3d of August,
1852, after a very heavy fall of rain, multitudes of
fish were caught on the ground in the cantonments,
full half a mile from the nearest stream. If showers
of fish are to be explained on the assumption that
they are carried up by squalls or violent winds from
rivers or spaces of water not far away from where they
fall, it would be nothing wonderful were they seen to

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 375

descend from the air during the furious squalls which
occasionally occur in July."

Sir E. Tennent, before cited, also witnessed in
Ceylon another of those fishr showers : — " I had an
opportunity, on one occasion only, of witnessing the
phenomenon which gives rise to this popular belief.
I was driving in the cinnamon gardens near the fort
of Colombo, and saw a violent but partial shower
descend at no great distance before me. On coming
to the spot, I found a multitude of small silvery fish,
from one and a half to two inches in length, leaping
on the gravel of the high road, numbers of which I
collected and brought away in my palanquin. The
spot was about half a mile from the sea, and entirely
unconnected with any water-course or pool." *

The same curious fact respecting the habits of
certain kinds of fish in the Llanos, which bury them-
selves in the mud at the close of the rainy season,
also appears to take place in India and Ceylon; for,
according to Gosse, " the pools, reservoirs, and tanks
are well provided with fish of various species, though
the water twice every year becomes perfectly evapo-
rated, and the mud of the bottom is entirely converted
into dust, or takes the condition of baked clay, gaping
with wide and deep clefts, in which not the slightest
sign of moisture can be detected. This is the case
with temporary hollows in the soil, which have no
connection with running streams or permanent waters,

* Natural History of Ceylon.

376 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

from which they might be supposed to receive a fresh
stock of fish."

After proving conclusively that these fishes could
not proceed from either the clouds, as the generality
of people believe, nor from impregnated ova, as
Mr. Farrell suggests, the author observes : — " Neither
of these hypotheses, then, will account for the fact;
and we must admit that the fishes of these regions,
have the instinct to burrow down in the solid mud of
the bottom, at the approach of the dry season, and
the power of retaining life, doubtless in a torpid con-
dition, until the return of the periodic rains, as Theo-
phrastus long ago observed."

But, who ever heard of showers of toads and frogs ?
Yet, such is the fact, astonished reader ; and were
you to visit with me some of the lagoons and ponds
of South America at night, you would not fail to
notice that the air, as well as the earth and waters,
seems filled with the piercing, deafening noise pro-
ceeding from them. "According to travellers in
tropical America, the inhabitants of Porto Bello assert
that every drop of rain is changed into a toad ; the
most instructed, however, believe that the spawn
of these animals is raised with the vapor from the
adjoining swamps, and, being driven in the clouds
over the city, the ova are hatched as they descend in
rain. "Pis certain that the streets after a night of
heavy rain are almost covered with the ill-favored
reptiles ; and it is imposible to walk without crush-
ing them. But heretic philosophers point to the
mature growth of the vermin, many of them being

SCENES AT THE PASS OF APURITO. 377

six inches in length, and maintain that the hypo-
thesis just mentioned will scarcely account for the
appearance of these." *

But it is not South America alone that can boast
of such an extraordinary phenomenon ; for the same
accomplished author records similar showers as occur-
ring in England and various parts of the Continent :
" In two or three of these cases, the toads were not
only observed in countless numbers on the ground
during and after heavy storms of rain, but were seen
to strike upon the roofs of houses, bounding thence
into the streets ; they even fell upon the hats, and?
in one instance, were actually received into the out-
stretched hand/'

It would seem that not even quadrupeds are
exempt there, from the same rule, for we often hear
the phrase in English, " If it should rain cats and
dogs/' which I, for want of a better acquaintance with
English phraseology, am at a loss how to interpret.
We all know that stone-showers are not uncommon,
especially ever since " the thunderer," Jupiter, alias
Jove, lost his power among us through the advancing
strides of civilization. Previous to this, we are told
of his paying occasional visits to his lady-loves on
earth in the shape of golden showers, which have been
exchanged subsequently for a less costly material;
but showers of " cats and dogs " I do not believe
ever occurred, even to an old sinner like him.

* Gosse, Romance of Natural History.

CHAPTEK XXV.

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER.

MARVELLOUS as the Apure river is in point of
living creatures, it is nothing in comparison with the
Orinoco, into which it flows, and the Amazon river,
that connects with the Orinoco through the Casi-
quiare and Rio Negro. The recent explorations
of Professor Agassiz in the Amazon, and the former
researches of Wallace on the latter river, prove,
I hope conclusively, that my statements concern-
ing the fishes of these regions are far below the
mark in point of numbers, and that there is no end
to the varieties. Wallace, who spent nearly four
years on the Eio Negro collecting objects of natural
history for the British Museum, and whose principal
fare consisted of the fish caught by his men, tells us,
" I began now to take a great interest in the beauty
and variety of the species, and, whenever I could, I
made accurate drawings and descriptions of them.
Many are of a most excellent flavor, surpassing any-
thing I have tasted in England, either from the fresh

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 379

or the salt waters ; and many species have real fat,
which renders the water they are boiled in a rich and
agreeable broth. Not a drop of this is wasted, but;
with a little pepper and farinha, is all consumed,
with as much relish as if it were the most delicate
soup." *

And Agassiz, in his interesting lectures on the same
subject, says : " Now, what are the fishes which in-
habit the Amazon ? for I wanted to say all this sim-
ply as a preparation to give you some definite idea of
the various types of fish which we find in that
mighty basin. Not one of those fishes with which we
are familiar in our rivers is to be found there ; not one
of those which are known in the rivers of Europe is to
be found there ; not one from any other fresh water
basin is to be found there. The Amazon has fishes of
its own, utterly different from those of any other basin,
and these fishes are different from those in all other
fresh water rivers of Brazil, and in each part of the
Amazon there are fish of a peculiar character, so
that those which inhabit the lower course of the Ama-
zon differ from those found in the upper. So great is
the variety, that in small lakes of water, at parts of
the Amazon, we find an endless variety. I examined
a little lake, just at the junction of the Kio Negro
with the Amazon. The lake was only a few hundred
yards in extent, and in that pool, for it was hardly
anything more, I found in the course of two months
over two hundred different kinds of fish, and three

* Travels on the Rio Negro.

380 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

times larger than can be found in the Mississippi or
in the Senegal or Granges or Nile. The number of
fish found in the whole basin, of the Amazon is not
less than two thousand different kinds, that is, ten
times as many as were known about a century ago to
exist in the whole world. And strange to say, it would
seem that, in proportion as we become acquainted
with a larger number of these animals they should be
found to resemble one another more and more. On
the contrary, however, such are the peculiarities of
their features, such is the infinite number of circum-
stances which brings about differences among them,
that in proportion as I find a larger and larger num-
ber, I find the difference between them seems to grow,
and though it appears paradoxical, it is strictly true."

And returning now to the Orinoco, the good mis-
sionary and historiographer of that noble river, Father
Gumilla, tells us that " So great is the multitude of
fishes and turtles, that the slime, excrements and
continual blood shed by those which devour or wound
each other, is the principal cause of the heaviness and
bad taste of the water of the Orinoco, which is also
the case in some of the rivers of Hungary, and can
be more readily perceived in basins or reservoirs de-
voted to the preservation of live fish, where the water
soon becomes tainted and unpalatable, although it
may go in and out freely.

" What astonishes still more is the novelty of the
species and curious shapes of these fishes, so different
from those of our Europe, for not even the sardinas
have the flavor nor the shape of these. All that we

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 381

can say, after a careful examination of these fishes, is,
this one resembles somewhat the trout, that one the
sole, etc. ; but no one can say with certainty this is
like any in Europe. But what of it, when it is a fact
that the fish found in the waters of the tierra ca-
liente are totally different from those of the tierra
frla ? "

Of the modes of fishing practised by the Indians
of his Mission, he also tells us many curious devices.
" Observe," he says, cc those four canoes, manned by
the boys of the Doctrina, and darting side by side
along the river ; well, this is the most novel and the
most curious mode of fishing ever devised, as the fishes
here called Bocachicos, Palometas, Lizas, Sardinas,
and many other kinds of smaller fry, jump of their
own accord into the canoes in such quantities that,
were not the paddlers expert enough and their craft
propelled with such rapidity, these would soon fill up
and sink with the weight of the fish that fall in them ;
for each kind has its proper season for spawning, and
with the object of saving some of their ova to multi-
ply their species, they have been taught by the Su-
preme Author of Nature to quit their haunts and
seek some convenient eddy, where, placing their tails
against the current, they receive in their gills the little
eggs which may chance to fall in them ; and these are
the only ones saved, the rest being devoured by other
fishes, whose numbers at and near these currents is
immense, one shoal crowding on the top of another."

In the rivers and streams of minor importance,
where fish are not so abundant, the natives, by way

382 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of pastime, and also to vary their fare, avail them-
selves of the roots of two plants — the cuna and the
barbasco,* both of which possess the singular pecu-
liarity of intoxicating fish, even when the smallest
quantity of the juice of the roots is thrown in the
stream, producing such commotion among the finny
inhabitants, that they fall an easy prey to the Indians,
who take a special delight in this wholesale slaughter.
The cuna is a small plant, somewhat like clover, pro-
ducing a bulbous root like a small turnip, but with
very different smell and taste, and the barbasco, a
vine, very common in all parts of the country, and
although both are exceedingly deleterious to fish, they
are not so to other creatures. The process is very
simple : A quantity of the roots or vines is slightly
pounded with a wooden mallet and thrown in the
water, and no sooner do the fish perceive the smell of
it, than they rush frantically up and down the stream-
to avoid its contact; those which take the former course
find their progress arrested by a file of Indians, who,
armed with poles, beat about the water to turn them
back, which they quickly do, but only to find their
retreat cut off in that direction too, for their cunning
assailants have already taken the precaution to bar
the stream with a double row of stakes, the lower one
higher than the upper. Not discouraged in the least,
the larger and stronger fish make another rush up the
stream ; but no sooner do they come in contact with
the noxious herb than they retreat again towards the

* "Piscidea erithryna and Jacquinia armillaris." — Humboldt.

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 333

barricade, and here, redoubling their energies, leap
over the first row of stakes, and thus find themselves
entrapped within the narrow limits of the stockade.
In the meantime the smaller fish, having neither the
strength nor the courage to save themselves, become
thoroughly intoxicated with the juices already dis-
seminated in the water, and fall an easy prey to the
joyous urchins, who pounce upon them, and transfer
them to the baskets they carry for the purpose. This
is a very amusing mode of fishing, and during the ex-
citement produces much merriment among the In-
dians ; now a fish slaps a redskin on the face with its
tail ; another one strikes against the bare ribs of some
one else, which never fails to draw peals of laughter
from their companions, who, in turn, become them-
selves the laughing-stock of the others from similar
mishaps.

But the most amusing contrivance practised by
these people with the cuna is the following : An In-
dian takes a quantity of boiled maize and grinds it to
paste ; one half of it is thoroughly incorporated with
the cuna, while the other half he reserves as a decoy
to attract the fish to a particular spot : he then calls
his children, who, armed with baskets, follow their
father to the stream; here the fisherman commences
to throw small pellets of the unprepared paste in the
water, which never fails to attract great numbers of
sardines, palometas, and other delicacies, and changing
suddenly his tactics, he exchanges the harmless bait
for the other, which no sooner is swallowed by the
fish, than they commence to turn somersaults in the

384 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

air, with other antics no less amusing to the boys,
who as quickly transfer them to their baskets. It is
almost incredible the amount of fish that is thus pro-
cured in a short time, enabling a poor Indian not only
to supply the wants of his family, but to afford his
children a lively recreation.

Still another mode of fishing, equally ingenious, is
practised by the Indians when the waters commence
to ebb towards the Orinoco at the end of the great
floods, by means of strong stockades thrown across the
outlet of the great lagunas, which are the receptacle
of immense quantity of larger game, such as turtles
and vagres (species of catfish) weighing from fifty to
seventy-five pounds ; laulaus or valentones, from two
hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds ; and above
all, innumerable manatis, from five hundred to one
thousand pounds. European Spaniards call this ani-
mal Vaca Marina, or sea cow, and the Brazilians
Peixe Boij ox-fish, from its feeding on grass, and other
peculiarities which assimilate it to the bovine species.
The manati abounds in the Apure, the Meta, and
most of the large tributaries of the Orinoco below
the cataracts, and more especially in the lagoons
formed by these rivers during the season of great
floods, which he prefers on account of the abundant
and tender food they offer them. Of this the astute
Indians avail themselves to entrap them, as no sooner
do the waters commence to fall than they watch at-
tentively the channel through which the lake they have
chosen as a fish-magazine — for no better name can
bo applied, from the finny multitude they secure there

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 385

for months — is likely to drain off. To this spot resort
the entire population of the village or tribe, who im-
mediately commence to cut stakes of the requisite
length and of great thickness, to resist the onset of
the formidable phalanxes of monster fishes seeking a
passage to the river. The stakes are then driven in
the bed of the channel close enough to permit only
the exit of the water and of the smaller fish, excluding
the turtles and the fish of greater magnitude. The
stockade is further reinforced by cross-beams of great
strength thrown across the channel, firmly secured at
both ends, and resting against the stakes ; and for
greater security they further strengthen them by an
outer row of trunks of trees driven in the ground
close to the stockade. It may appear superfluous to
take such precautions against the apparently defence-
less hosts imprisoned within the boundaries of the
lagoon ; but so great and powerful are in fact the
avalanches of manatis struggling against this formi-
dable barrier, that it is often found necessary to rein-
force it twice, and even three times in the course of
the season.

Indeed it is scarcely credible, the number and size
of the creatures secured in this manner, whole tribes
of Indians subsisting for months together on the sup-
ply afforded by one of these reservoirs ; but as these
lagoons eventually drain off towards the close of the
rainy season, and the Indians cannot exhaust them in
spite of their insatiate voracity, they are compelled at
last, though reluctantly, to remove the obstruction in
time to allow the fish to return to the bed of the
17

336 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

stream before they are cut off from it ; and it is
asserted that on one occasion, having neglected this
precaution in time, more than three thousand mana-
tis, and a still greater number of large fish, perished
in the shallow water of one of these lagoons, with the
exception only of the turtles, who were, of course, in
their element.

The manati is a herbivorous animal of the ceta-
ceous family, of which the whale is the type, and at-
tains here from twelve to fifteen feet in length. Some
are caught that weigh over a thousand pounds. In
shape it resembles a seal somewhat, though its eyes
and auricular organs are extremely small, but very
acute, so much so that great care is required on the
part of the fisherman who goes in pursuit of it, not to
strike the sides of his canoe with the paddle and
frighten the game off. Its principal means of propul-
sion exist in its tail, which is flat and round, from
three to four feet broad, and very powerful ; but it
possesses in addition two pectoral fins, or armlets, sit-
uated at a proportionate distance from the head, and
these enable the animal to come out of the water to
browse on the rich herbage by the banks of rivers and
lagoons : these armlets serve the female, in addition, to
hold its young — always two in number, male and fe-
male— close, to its breasts, until they are old enough
to follow the mother and eat grass, their only food ;
and it is a curious fact, that although the mother often
delights — as is the habit of these cetacea — in gambols
in the water, when they sometimes jump several feet
outof their element they never lose hold of their twins.

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 337

The anatomy of this fresh-water whale is very cu-
rious, according to Humboldt, who dissected one while ^
on his way to the Orinoco. " The upper lip was four
inches longer than the lower one. It was covered with
a very fine skin, and served as a proboscis. The in-
side of the mouth, which has a sensible warmth in
the animal newly killed, presented a very singular
conformation. The tongue was almost motionless ;
but in front of the tongue there was a fleshy excres-
cence in each jaw, and a cavity lined with a very hard
skin, into which the excrescence fitted. The manati
eats such quantities of grass that we have found its
stomach, which is divided into several cavities, and its
intestines (one hundred and eight feet long) filled with
it. Opening the animal at the back, we were struck
with the magnitude, form, and situation of its lungs.
They have very large cells, and resemble immense
swimming-bladders. They are three feet long ; filled
with air, they have a bulk of more than a thousand
cubic inches. I was surprised to see that, possessing
such receptacles of air, the manati comes so often to
the surface of the water to breathe. Its flesh is very
savory, though, from what prejudice I know not, it is
considered unhealthy and apt to produce fever. It ap-
peared to me to resemble pork rather than beef. It is
most esteemed by the Guamos and Ottomacs ; and
these two nations are particularly expert in catching
the manati. The fat of the animal, known by the
name of manati-butter (manteca de manati) is used
for lamps in the churches, and is also employed in
preparing food. It has not the fetid smell of whale

388 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

oil, or that of the other cetaceous animals which spout
water. The hide of the manati, which is more than
an inch and a half in thickness, is cut into slips, and
serves, like thongs of ox-leather, to supply the place
of cordage in the Llanos. When immersed in water,
it has the defect of undergoing a slight degree of pu-
trefaction. Whips are made from it in the Spanish
colonies. Hence the words latigo and manati are
synonymous. These whips of manati leather are a
cruel instrument of punishment for the unhappy
slaves, and even for the Indians of the Missions,
though, according to the laws, the latter ought to he
treated like freemen."

The address displayed by an Indian of the Orinoco
in capturing with the harpoon one of these monsters
and bringing it into port, with only the assistance of
his wife to paddle and steer the frail canoe, is most
wonderful. While the woman propels the canoe, the
man stands erect at the bow, watching intently the
moment when the manati comes up to the surface to
breathe, which it does every few minutes. Off flies
the double-barbed harpoon from the hands of the fish-
erman, and implants itself in the thick hide of the
doomed monster, which no sooner feels the piercing
blow, than away it darts at a fearful rapidity, drag-
ging along after it the frail canoe, to the bow of which
is attached one end of the thong made from the tough
hide of the manati, while to the other end is firmly
secured the iron head of the harpoon itself. After
vain endeavors to avoid the danger that threatens it,
now dashing rapidly against the stream for an hour or

THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. 389

BO, now seeking the calm surface of a neighboring la-
goon, during which time the sporting couple manage
with difficulty to keep their seats at the bottom of the
canoe, holding fast to the sides of it with both hands,
the monster, bleeding and exhausted after its precipi-
tate flight, begins at last to slacken its pace, and
finally stops altogether. Now the hunter commences
to pull it towards him with much caution ; but no
sooner does the animal perceive the dreaded canoe
with its savage occupants, than off it sets anew at the
same lightning speed, though this time of less duration;
again the hunter pulls the game towards him, and
again it endeavors to fly from him ; but having lost
nearly all its strength, and probably convinced of the
uselessness of further efforts to escape, it now stops,
rolls on its back, and calmly awaits its fate on the
surface of the water. By this time the canoe is
alongside of the captive, and, without further concern,
the Indian cuts it open with his knife, and as soon as
the water penetrates to its entrails, the great monster
dies without a struggle. And now, " what shall we
do with it," in the midst of a river or lagoon four or
five miles in width ? How is this creature — weighing
perhaps a thousand pounds, and nearly as long as the
canoe — to be landed safely on the shore ? How can a
a single man, assisted only by a frail woman, without
firm ground to set their feet upon, manage to stow
away the cumbrous load ? Nothing easier, incredu-
lous reader ; " first catch the hare and then make the
soup," and this the Indian hunter daily practises in
his native wilds, without much culinary advice from

390 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Mrs. Glass. Having secured their game, the hunters,
or fishers, plunge in the water, swimming all the while
with their feet and one hand, while with the other they
tip over the canoe until it partly fills with water, which
brings it on a level with the carcass of the manati ; this
accomplished, the rest of the operation is easily done
by sliding the canoe under the carcass, and then baling
out the water by means of calabash cups, which cover
their heads in lieu of hats. In proportion as they
bale out the water, the canoe rises above the surface,
and when sufficiently high to permit its being safely
navigated through the boisterous waves of the Orinoco,
the husband leaps on the head of the animal and
calmly takes his seat, while the wife does the same
on the broad tail of the monster fish, and directing the
bow of the canoe towards the shore, they paddle them-
selves along with their cumbrous freight, which is
soon disposed of among the numerous relations and
friends, who anxiously await their arrival on the
beach.

SCENES AT EL DORADO — (From"a photograph.)

CHAPTER XXYI.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO.

" And yet unspoiled

Cruiana, whose great city Geryon's sous *
Call El Dorado."— Paradise Lost, Book xi.

BEFORE we quit the shores of the Apure, I will
invite the reader to follow me in imagination, or,
better still, in one of the many bongos trading be-
tween this and the Orinoco river, on to the adjoining
province of Guayana, or Guiana, as it is more com-
monly known among English writers and explorers.
This will give us an opportunity of gliding over one
of the greatest rivers in the world, which nearly en-
circles a vast territory hardly known to civilized man,
that is just now attracting a great deal of notice
on account of the recent gold discoveries made there ;
a country unsurpassed in natural treasures and re-
sources ; a sort of hidden paradise which greedy gold-
hunters of former times sought in vain under the

* Guerior ? This was the name of a town founded at the conflu-
ence of the Paragua and Caroni rivers, long since destroyed or aban-
doned.— The Author.

392 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

gilded name of EL DORADO, and which, strange to
say, has remained, like the wealth of California, un-
discovered until recently.

What a train of awful recollections this once magic
name of EL DORADO brings to mind ! What tales
of woe, of daring adventure and blasted hopes it has
left behind for the entertainment and raillery of sub-
sequent generations ! And yet, the gallant Raleigh
— Sir Walter — like Galileo before the tribunal of the
Inquisition, was right in his belief that there was gold
enough in Guayana to load the entire fleet of Great
Britain in his time.

But let us not anticipate the narrative of events,
which will come, each one in its turn. Availing our-
selves, therefore, of the gentle current of the Apure,
we will proceed on our journey, stopping here and
there to get a shot at the enormous crocodiles —
larger than any we have yet seen — which infest its
waters near its confluence with the Orinoco ; arid
perhaps also at some thirsty jaguar taking its young
to drink. Humboldt has described these scenes so
vividly, that I must refer the reader to the third
volume of his " Travels/' Bonn's edition, for further
information on the subject.

Proceeding down the river, which here presents
the singularity of becoming narrower, on account of
infiltrations through a" spongy and sandy soil, as well
as other causes, we come suddenly upon a vast ex-
panse of waters, presenting all the appearance of an
agitated sea, from the conflict between breeze and
current. This is the grand old river we are in

THE LAND OF EL DQRADO.

quest of, the Orinoco. " The air resounded no longer
with the piercing cries of herons, flamingos, and
spoonbills, crossing in long files from one shore to the
other. Our eyes sought in vain those water-fowls, the
habits of which vary in each climate. Scarcely could
we discover in the hollows of the waves a few large
crocodiles, cutting obliquely, by the help of their long
tails, the surface of the agitated waters. The horizon
was bounded by a zone of forests, which nowhere
reached so far as the bed of the river. A vast beach,
constantly parched by the heat of the sun, desert and
bare as the shores of the sea, resembles at a distance,
from the effects of the mirage, pools of stagnant
water. In these scattered features, we recognize the
course of the Orinoco, one of the most majestic rivers
of the New World." *

At this point the Orinoco, already enriched with
the tribute of the Guaviare, the Inirida, the Meta,
and the Arauca, which, like the Apure, have their
sources amidst the snowy mountains of New Granada,
suddenly changes its course, and, in conjunction with
the latter, flows nearly in a straight line towards the
Atlantic, after describing an arc of a circle around
the western portion of Guayana. The vast territory
thus encompassed within its mighty embrace gives
rise also to numerous other rivers hardly inferior in
magnitude to the above-named, such as the Yentuari,
the Cuchivero, the Paragua, the Caura, the Caroni,
etc., all of which flow into the Orinoco from the

* Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.

394 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

south, thus contributing to swell the volume of its
waters to the extent that it presents by the time
it reaches the ocean on the fifteenth meridian of
longitude east of Washington. Our route being in
this direction also, we will not follow the illustrious
traveller in his laborious exploration of the Upper
Orinoco, the Casiquiare and the Rio Negro. I would,
however, advise those who arc not conversant with
his works to read his description of the Eaudales, or
Great Rapids of Atures and Maipures, which he has
sketched with a masterly hand in his Tableaux de
la Nature. The following passage, quoted from said
work, will convey to the reader some idea of the mag-
nificence of the river at that point : —

" A foaming surface of four miles in length pre-
sents itself at once to the eye : iron black masses of
rock, resembling ruins and battlemented towers, rise
frowning from the waters. Rocks and islands are
adorned with the luxuriant vegetation of the tropical
forest ; a perpetual mist hovers over the waters, and
the summits of the lofty palms pierce through the
clouds of spray and vapor. When the rays of the
glowing evening sun are refracted in their humid ex-
halations, a magic optical effect begins. Colored
bows shine, vanish, and reappear ; and the ethereal
image is swayed to and fro by the breath of the
sportive breeze. During the long rainy season, the
streaming waters bring down islands of vegetable
mould, and thus the naked rocks are studded with
bright flower-beds adorned with melastomas and

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 395

droseras, and with silver-leaved mimosas and ferns.
These spots recall to the recollection of the European
those blocks of granite decked with flowers which rise
solitary amidst the glaciers of Savoy, and are called
by the dwellers in the Alps ' Jardins/ or i Courtils/ "

This is the country of the India-rubber and the
Brazil-nut trees, two of the most stupendous denizens
of the tropical forest ; of the wild cacao, the fragrant
sarapia, or tonka-bean, the sassafras-laurel, the ananas
or wild pine-apple, and of numberless other useful
products, as well as baneful drugs ; for here is gath-
ered the mavacure-vine, from the juice of which the
Indians of this region compound the most virulent
poison known in nature, the curare, which the natives
employ most effectively in procuring game by the aid
of their blow-pipes. So quick and certain are its
effects, that an animal wounded by one of the small
arrows used for the purpose drops dead before the
creature is hardly conscious of its danger ; and sin-
gular enough, no evil effects whatever arise from
partaking of the game thus killed ; for the curare is
perfectly harmless when taken internally.

The Kaudales are at present a serious impediment
to the free navigation of the river up to the frontiers
of Brazil ; although, as Humboldt justly remarks,
this obstruction could be avoided by cutting a canal
around them, the nature of the ground offering ample
facilities for this purpose ; but this cannot be done
advantageously until the country shall be better
stocked with population than at present.

396 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Proceeding down the stream, the only town of any
importance we encounter on the route is Ciudad 'Bo-
livar, formerly Angostura, which is the capital of the
State of Guayana and a mart of considerable trade
with the llanos of Apure, Calabozo, and Barinas. The
old name of the city was changed in honor of the
Liberator, Simon Bolivar, who, after expelling the
Spaniards from New Granada, assembled here the
first Congress which proclaimed the union of the
republic of Colombia in 1819. Pleasantly situated
on a bluff several feet above the high-water level of
the river, about three hundred miles from the sea, and
connected by its numerous tributaries with a country
nearly as large as continental Europe, Ciudad Bolivar
is destined to become the seat of a vast commerce,
when the now almost desert region of Guayana shall
have opened its golden treasures to an enterprising
generation. At present it contains about ten thou-
sand inhabitants ; has a fine cathedral, government
house, and very handsome private residences and
warehouses. The business, according to all accounts,
has fallen off greatly since the war of seven years
which, under the alleged name of Federation, devas-
tated the rest of the republic. Happily for the State
of Guayana, it has always been kept free from these
periodical turmoils by the efforts of some truly patri-
otic men — among others, John B. Dalla-Costa, Jr., the
present President of the State, under whose enlight-
ened administration public improvements, roads, hos-
pitals, schools, etc., are being established, and the
nucleus of a foreign immigration started on the way

THE .LAND OF EL DORADO. 397

to the gold fields. The commercial houses are prin-
cipally German, French, and Italian ; but of late
many Southern refugees from the United States have
been induced to try their fortunes on the banks of the
Orinoco ; and, judging from past experience in the
rapid development of California and Australia, through
the energies of the Anglo-Saxon race, the placers of
that golden paradise bid fair to become another centre
of commercial intercourse with foreign nations.

It was from this place that the first expedition in
search of El Dorado, on this side of the continent, set
out in 1595. None of those composing it ever came
back, however, to tell the sad tale of their discom-
fiture by the fierce tribes of Indians which dwelt on
the fine savannas lying between the Caroni and Para-
gua rivers, beyond which popular belief, assisted by
the traditions of the aborigines themselves, had settled
definitely the existence of a region abounding in gold.
Previous to this, however, the fame of El Dorado had
spread over the western part of South America, and
several expeditions had been fitted out in Venezuela,
New Granada, Quito, and Peru, with the avowed ob-
ject of conquering the wealthy empire of the Omeguas,
whose sovereign, El Dorado, or the " gilded king," was
represented as dwelling in palaces with columns of
massive gold. The climate of that region being warm
throughout the year, and the morals of the inhabitants
not yet perverted by contact with their would-be
civilizers, his majesty's attire, it was asserted, was in
keeping with the glitter of his dominions ; a simple
coating of balsamiferous resins, in which the country

398 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

abounds, followed by a sprinkling of gold-dust through
the hollow tube of a bamboo, twice a day, being suf-
ficient to distinguish him from the rest of his naked
subjects : hence the name. But this sort of drapery
being rather uncomfortable at bed-time, it was re-
moved every night by simply washing with water — a
most delightful luxury in warm countries — and as
easily replaced on the following day. Where such
embarras de richesse could be indulged in by a demi-
savage monarch, gold mines must exist in abundance ;
the sands of the rivers and lakes must consist of fine
gold, and the pebbles and rocks of the same precious
metal. People were not, however, in perfect accord
respecting the precise locality of said auriferous king-
dom ; some placing it on the eastern side of Guay-
ana, as already stated, under the name of El Dorado
de la Parime ; others, two hundred and fifty leagues
to the westward of this, near the eastern slope of the
Andes of New Granada ; while not a few contended
that it was situated in the country of the Omeguas,
somewhere near the waters of the Upper Amazon.

Such were the vague notions concerning the coun-
try of El Dorado, which the people of former times
sought in vain at the cost of many lives and vast
amounts of treasure. Strange blindness ! when they
had it right before their eyes ! for, as the noble mis-
sionary writer often quoted, Father Gumilla, tells us
respecting the wealth of South America: "Let us
ask the Englishman, Keymisco,* and other captains,

k • * •* * h

* Keymis, the lieutenant of Raleigh.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 399

countrymen of his : Friends, what journeys are these ?
for what purpose so many dangerous voyages, so many
losses of treasure, ships, and sailors ? * Let us ask
hoth Pizarros in Peru and Quito ; both Quesadas in
Santa Fe de Bogota; Orellana, on the Maranon, and
Berrio on the Meta, as well as many other famous
chieftains : Gentlemen, what's your hurry ? what the
object of so many armaments, marches, and arduous
explorations, dangerous and painful ? — ' We seek/
they answer ' the famous and opulent El Dorado :
let no one, therefore, be astonished at our determina-
tion and earnest purpose ; for what is worth much,
must entail great sacrifices/

"The Athenians burst into laughter when they
met and heard Diogenes seeking for a man ; but they
laughed most foolishly, inasmuch as the philosopher
sought a man of truth only ! one who should profess
it in earnest ; and it should have been a matter of
shame, rather than raillery, with the men of Athens,
to learn that so great a philosopher could not find one
among them. But we shall not err if we laugh at
the simplicity of those noble conquerors. Most sin-
gular spectacle ! To see so many Spanish chieftains
stumbling at each step over an El Dorado of inex-
haustible richness, as is in reality the entire new king-

* The first of the voyages undertaken at Raleigh's expense was in
1595 ; the second, that of Laurence Keymis, in 1596 ; the third, de-
scribed by Thomas Masham, in 1597; and the fourth, in 1617. The
first and the last only were performed by Raleigh in person. This
celebrated man was beheaded October the 29th, 1618. — Humboldt.

1

4-00 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

dom of Granada, and Tierra Firme, so abundant in
gold, silver, and emerald mines, such as those already
found within the jurisdictions of Pamplona, Mariquita,
Muso, Neiva, Los Remedies, Antioquia, Anserma?
Choco, Barvacoas, and a great many more which are
waiting to be brought to light, as is indicated by the
golden sands carried down by rivers and torrents from
the mountains ; thus showing their willingness to be
disentombed. Therefore, if there are so many scores
of Dorados, immensely rich and superabundant, only
waiting to be worked ; why so much restlessness, so
much expenditure and wandering after a Dorado ?
What need had Peru to risk her militia in unknown
regions to suffer and perish in pursuit of a Dorado,
while she possesses the unrivalled golden fields of
Caravalla, with many others ? And the inexhausti-
ble silver mountain of Potosi, to say nothing of other
veins of the same metal, almost innumerable, though
less prolific ? It was indeed a singular idea to seek
abroad, at great cost of life and treasure, the very
thing they possessed at home." *

Nothing in the history of modern adventure can
compare in hardihood, determination, and reckless
disregard of life, with those haphazard undertakings

* The predictions of the old Missionary of the Orinoco have been
singularly verified in these latter times by the still more recent discov
cries in Peru ; for, as I write this, the news comes from that country
that, in the mountains of Chanchamayo, Upper Amazon, " some gold
mines have been discovered, which, for their abundance and richness,
surpass those of California."'— National, of Lima.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 4()1

in the heart of South America which, although prov-
ing invariably most disastrous to their promoters, re-
sulted ultimately in a real benefit to the colonial pos-
sessions of Spain in the New World, by extending the
geographical knowledge of those regions. To fully
comprehend the nature of the task which these ad-
venturers imposed upon themselves, it will suffice to
say, with regard to Venezuela, that few spots only,
and these far apart, were then occupied by Europeans
along its extensive sea-coast. The thirst for gold,
which characterized the spirit of the time, and the
reputation the country enjoyed for the precious metal,
as well as for the fine pearls obtained at Margarita
and other places, had attracted thither a crowd of
lawless adventurers from all parts of Europe, but more
especially from Germany — the Emperor Charles the
Fifth having, in an evil hour, granted to a company
of Teutonic speculators all the territory comprised be-
tween Cabo de la Vela and Maracapana, with privilege
to capture and use as slaves all those of the^native
inhabitants who should resist their exactions. The
power thus conferred on those merciless adventurers
was freely used by them to enslave the doomed lords
of the land, who were hunted like wild beasts in all
directions, and quickly transported to the mines of
Hispaniola, or Saint Domingo, where they perished
by thousands, the native population of that island
having already been exterminated in this manner.
To accomplish their work more effectually, expeditions
were organized and despatched to all parts of the
country, some of which penetrated beyond the llanos

4:02 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of Apure, Casanare, and Meta, as far as the Caqueta
and Putumayo, tributary rivers of the Upper Amazon.
Others, still more bold, disregarding the frigid blasts of
the Sierra Nevada, with its dizzy precipices and yawn-
ing chasms, sought the " Land of gold " in a westerly
direction, fighting their way not only against a frowning
nature, but also against the hardy mountain tribes,
who disputed every inch of ground to the bearded in-
vaders. It was in this manner that the rich domain
of Cundinamarca, in New Granada, was made known
to the colonists of Venezuela, by Nicholas Federmann,
in 1539, although Jimenez de Quesada had preceded
him, and Sebastian de Benalcazar, by the way of the
river Magdalena from the coast of Cartagena.

" The junction of three bodies of troops on the
table-land of New Granada/' says Humboldt, " spread
through all that part of America occupied by the
Spaniards the news of an immensely rich and popu-
lous country, which remained to be conquered. Se-
bastian de Benalcazar marched from Quito by way of
Popayan (1536) to Bogota ; Nicolas Federmann,
coming from Venezuela, arrived from the east by the
plains of Casanare and Meta. These two captains
found, already settled on the table-land of Cundina-
marca, the famous Adelantado Gonzalo Jimenez de
Quesada, one of whose descendants I saw near Zipa-
quira, with bare feet, attending cattle. The fortuitous
meeting of the three conquistadores, one of the most
extraordinary and dramatic events of the history of
the conquest, took place in 1536."

No better avenger of the wrongs perpetrated on

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 403

the unfortunate aborigines could have been provided
against their merciless persecutors, than this phantom
of untold wealth, which, like the fugitive fountain
before Tantalus, haunted them day and night, in the
camp of the wearied soldier, in the alcove of the
proud Hidalgo, and even in the quiet seclusion of the
cloister. And yet one cannot but admire the pluck
of those hardy cavaliers of old who, regardless of the
almost insuperable difficulties presented by an un-
known and savage country, went boldly in search of
this new Ophir over lofty mountain ranges and desert
plains, which, even at this day, are the terror of the
wayfarer. Three centuries later, when Bolivar, with
a well-appointed army and better roads than Feder-
mann met in his famous expedition, crossed the Cor-
dilleras from the plains of Venezuela, and undertook
the recovery of New Grranada from the Spaniards in
1819, he lost nearly all his baggage-mules, and many
valuable lives besides, amidst the wintry paramos of
that tempestuous ridge.

Of the earliest expeditions in search of El Dorado,
those undertaken by Jorge de Spira in 1534, and by
Felipe de Urre or Utre,* in 1541, from the coast of
Coro, Venezuela, rank among the most extraordinary
on record. The former of these worthies had received
the title of adelantado, or governor, to the German
colony in Tierra Firme, a dignity which was associated
in those days with the more vainglorious aspirations

* Jorge de Spira (George von Speier) and Felipe de Utre (Utre,
Von Huten), as well aa Fcdermann, were all Germans.

404: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of the conqueror, or conquistador, and to this end were
directed, more or less, all the efforts of the men ap-
pointed to places of distinction in the New World,
without neglecting to provide themselves with the
more substantial perquisities of the fraternity in the
shape of Indian captives, pearls, and gold. Accord-
ingly, the Adelantado took especial care to bring with
him from Spain a force of about four hundred men,
many of whom were persons of distinction, and landed
in Coro in the early part of February of that year.

Without troubling himself much about the affairs
of the colony, the new Adelantado proceeded immedi-
ately to scour the country in search of gold ; but find-
ing none amongst the savage tribes he encountered
beyond the mountains of the coast, boldly plunged
into the mare magnum of the llanos, in spite of the
opposition of the natives and the asperity of the route.
The vernal deluge of the low lands, however, put a
stop in due time to further progress, compelling him
to seek the protection of the hilly country to the west-
ward, where years after was founded the city of Bari-
nas. Here he spent several months waiting for the
return of the dry season, and in vain endeavors to ob-
tain provisions in a country solely inhabited by savage
tribes, that did not disdain to confront the superior
mettle of his men whenever they had a chance. Ee-
duced at last to the greatest extremity by famine and
sickness, the Governor despatched a portion of his
force under one of his most tried captains, with orders
to penetrate into the valleys formed by the lofty range
of mountains further west.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 495

Goaded by hunger, and with the hope of finding
more promising realms than those they had encoun-
tered on the route from Coro, the soldiers of Spira did
not stop until they discovered on a high mountain
what seemed to be the granary of the tribes apper-
taining to that district, which they were not slow in
transporting to headquarters. Somewhat restored with
this opportune supply of food, and not in the least
daunted by the dangers that threatened him, Spira
resolved to proceed on his forlorn journey, sending
back to Coro the sick and wounded under a compe-
tent escort, which was to rejoin him in his camp.
This accomplished, the Adelantado resumed his march
across the plains in a southward direction. Keeping
in sight of the western cordillera, and guided by the
celestial constellations at night, Spira and his brave
companions presented the spectacle so well described
by Goldsmith in the following lines : —

" To distant climes, a dreary scene,
, Where half the convex world intrudes between,
Through torrid tracks with fainting step they go."
The Deserted Village.

After several months of arduous vicissitudes, when
they nearly all perished for want of provisions, sub-
sisting in the mean time on the tender shoots of
heliconias and the most loathsome reptiles, they stop-
ped at last on the banks of the river Upia, having
crossed many others of no less consequence, such as
the Apure, the Sarare, and the Casanare, by what
means the chronicles of the time do not tell us.
Completely exhausted now, and again threatened by

406 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the approaching rainy season, the weary caravan pre-
pared to winter there, selecting for the purpose some
high ground near a forest, upon which they built huts
and considered themselves secure against the vernal
flood. Yain precautions ! The thundering voice of
the tropical tempest made itself heard at length, and
neither human ingenuity, nor high bank, nor tangled
forest, could turn aside the mighty swell which, like
a partial deluge, sweeps over the boundless plain at
the vernal equinox. Thus the bold Castilians, after
courageously braving the terrors of a savage country
for nearly two years, found themselves reduced to a
small space of dry land, and in danger of being wash-
ed away at any moment. Ignorant of the ways, and
badly provided with the necessary appliances for pro-
curing game in a country so profusely endowed with
this commodity, they were still compelled to subsist
on wild fruits and roots ; even these could not be
procured but at the peril of ravenous jaguars, which,
like themselves, had been driven thither by th,e en-
gulfing inundation. More skilled in the art of
swimming and navigating those waters, the vengeful
Indians watched stealthily every opportunity to pick
off stragglers from the camp ; and thus many of those
poor wretches were spared the horrors of a lingering
death by starvation, sickness, and despair. Yet, the
unconquerable spirit of their leader, far from yielding
to the force of circumstances, and wholly impressed
with visions of a golden paradise, only seemed to urge
him on still farther in the unknown interior ; for no
sooner was he released from his long confinement by

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 407

the subsidence of the waters, than Spira crossed over
to the south side of the river, and proceeded on his
journey, through innumerable hostile tribes of Indians,
who annoyed him considerably on his march. During
his wanderings over those immeasurable wilds, Spira
obtained from an Indian captive some inform ati n
respecting more prosperous and populated lands to
the westward, the inhabitants of which were clad in
fine cotton fabrics, and wore ornaments of gold, show-
ing a higher grade of civilization than that of the sav-
ages he had encountered. Although at first he lent a
willing ear to the story, and even sent a strong body
of men to reconnoitre the lofty mountain range be-
yond, the Adelantado desisted from his projected con-
quest in that direction, owing to the rugged nature
of the route, as reported by his men, and the little
faith he placed on such statements from Indian in-
formers. The fact is, the Spaniards had proved such
troublesome guests, that the aborigines, to get rid of
them, and perceiving their eagerness for gold, con-
stantly allured them towards the wealth of other
countries, situated farther off. Had Spira, on this
occasioo, followed the advice of his informant, instead
of persisting, as he did, in his southern exploration,
he would, in a short time, have found the promised
land of his expectations — the rich and fertile country
of the Muiscas, in one word, for he was then only a
few days' march from their own capital on the high
table-land of Bogota. His bad luck led him instead
to a region so exactly the reverse of this, that his
companions gave it the name of Hal Pais (bad coun-

408 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

try); not only on account of the roughness of the land,
but also of its inhabitants, with whom they had sev-
eral desperate engagements, before they were enabled
to proceed.

Without losing sight of the friendly cordillera
which had guided their steps thus far,. the Spaniards
arrived at the village of a less pugnacious tribe of In-
dians, which they christened with the name of Nuestra
Senora, or Our Lady, in commemoration of the Feast
of the Assumption, which they, in spite of their
wretched condition, celebrated with great pomp and
rejoicings, in 1537. It is the same where they after-
wards founded the city of San Juan de los Llanos.*
Here the Spaniards heard again of regions abounding
in gold and silver, situated farther on ; and although
they had become rather incredulous respecting such
reports, they believed, on this occasion, what the In-
dians told them, in consequence of finding there some
signs of a more advanced state of civilization, such as
a temple, consecrated to the sun, and a convent of
virgins similar to those which were afterwards found
among the Muiscas and Peruvians. Without stopping
even to rest his troop, Spira crossed the Ariari, per-
haps higher up than Macatoa, and before its junction
with the Guaviare. He then penetrated, by force of
arms, into the country of the Guayupes and Cani-
camares, two powerful tribes, and shortly afterwards
he discovered the head waters of the Papamene, where
he stopped some days to rest his men, and to obtain

* See map, at frontispiece.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 409

guides among the Indians to conduct him to the
country of riches. The dwellers of Papamene received
Spira in a friendly manner, and established with his
soldiers a system of exchanges and communication
most acceptable on both sides ; the strangers obtain-
ing by these means the provisions they were in need
of, and the Indians those trinkets of foreign manufac-
ture so highly prized by them. But, tired at last of
their troublesome guests, the aborigines persuaded
them that a little further on they would find the
country they were in quest of. To encourage them
still more, five of the natives volunteered to act as
guides, pledging themselves to lead them shortly to
the heart of that happy country, from whence they
would return loaded with riches. Instead of this, the
wily Indians conducted them to a dismal labyrinth
of swamps and quicksands, the abode of a ferocious
and warlike nation, dexterous in battle and in the
management of formidable lances of palm-wood, tip-
ped with blades of human bone, very sharp and pointed.
When once in the heart of this horrid wilderness, the
guides disappeared one night, and left their friends to
shift for themselves.

Not in the least disconcerted by the untoward
contretemps, the stubborn leader of the band, instead
of retracing his steps, prepared at once to make a
thorough exploration of that region. To this end he
detailed his lieutenant, Esteban Martin — a well tried
and competent individual — with fifty infantry and
twenty horsemen, to reconnoitre the position. Martin
Boon discovered the difficulties of the undertaking,
18

410 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

and the dangers to which they all would be exposed
if the Governor persisted in his project. After an in-
effectual reconnoisance of five days' duration, when
men and horses were constantly in danger of being
swallowed up by the treacherous ground, he returned
to the camp, and again endeavored to dissuade the
Governor from his foolhardy scheme ; but Spira was
deaf to the timely advice of his lieutenant. Ordering
him to leave behind the horses, and to take the fifty
men already allotted to the service, he enjoined Mar-
tin to resume the reconnoisance forthwith, by a differ-
ent route.

The result of the foray was just as the lieutenant
had foreseen. The Indians allowed them to penetrate
unmolested into the interior of their stronghold, and
then cut them up in detail. Although the {Spaniards
fought like lions on this occasion, very few of them
were fortunate enough to reach headquarters, to ap-
prise the stubborn Governor of his danger. It became
now necessary to effect a retreat from that den of hor-
rors which the Spaniards stigmatized with the appropri-
ate name of Los Choques — the Onslaughts — in allusion*
to the repeated attacks which the enemy made upon
them while endeavoring to accomplish their escape.
Unfortunately for the invaders, as they were then
very near the line of the equator, where it rains almost
incessantly, they had to contend also against the in-
clemency of the weather, which brought on a multi-
tude of diseases very fatal to men and horses ; fur
they had neither the means nor the physical strength
to counteract them. Thus many of these brave fel-

THE LAND OF EL DORADO.

lows became a prey to the distemper, among them
several distinguished individuals, whose names are
given by Oviedo in his " Historia de la Conquista,"
such as Francisco Murcia de Kondon, who had acted as
secretary to King Francis the First of France during
his captivity in Spain.

The most difficult part of the undertaking re-
mained yet to be accomplished, namely, that of re-
tracing their steps to the sea-coast through a flooded
and deserted country ; for, with the previous experi-
ence of the natives, the villages were abandoned at the
approach of the dreaded foreigners, and stripped of
their provisions. So great was the destitution among
the followers of Spira, that, on one occasion, a party
of his men fell in with an infant, left forsaken by its
mother in the hurry of the moment after a surprise ;
and, without the least compunction, they devoured it
along with some edible roots found in the hut. When
Spira heard of it he would have made an example of
the cannibals on the spot ; but considering that he was
still in an enemy's country, and that he could not
very well spare the men — four in number — he com-
muted the sentence of death passed upon them to
some other, though quite severe punishment. They
all, however, got their deserts after a while ; for, as
the historiographer 0 viedo tells us, every one of them
died in the most distressing agony — although of vari-
ous diseases — at the thought of the horrid crime they
had committed.

A whole year was spent in this disastrous retreat,
which, more than any other feat of arms, proved the

412 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

mettle of the bold conquerors. The remnants of what
was a dashing phalanx — ninety men out of the four
hundred that five years before had started in search
of wealth and fame — reached Coro in February of
1539 ; and these, far from being discouraged by past
misfortunes, only inflamed the ardor of other incau-
tious adventurers to join themin a renewed search for
El Dorado ; for we find Felipe de Urre and Pedro de
Limpias, two of Spirals followers, engaging in a similar
expedition soon after the return of this ill-fated con-
quistador, who did not long survive the hardships of
that fearful journey, for he died in Coro on the 12th
of June, 1540. His successor, as Governor of the
colony, Bishop de las Bastidas, whose mission as a
prelate of the church should have been one of " peace
on earth, and good-will to men," far from discounte*
nancing these reckless enterprises, became himself a
most ardent votary of the " gilded king," to whom
he prepared to pay his respects through his lieutenant,
the famous conquistador, Felipe de Urre, like Spira
and Federmann, of German nationality. The ex-
chequer of the colony being rather short of funds at
the time, the Eight Keverend sent an expedition un-
der Pedro de Limpias, to the lake of Maracaibo, for
the purpose of obtaining its equivalent in the shape
of Indian captives, a species of merchandise which
commanded a ready sale among the traders on the
coast of Tierra Firme. The speculation succeeded so
well that, by the month of June, 1541, the Com-
mander-in-chief was ready to start at the head of one
hundred and fifty men, well armed and equipped for

THE LAND OF EL DORADO.

a protracted campaign. Urre appointed as his chief
of staff the ubiquitous Pedro de Limpias, a brave and
crafty adventurer, long experienced in Indian forays,
especially that of the unfortunate Jorge de Spira,
and afterwards under Federmann, during his perilous
journey over the icy Sierras of Cundinamarca.

The only pass through the northern cordillera then
known to the colonists was that of Agua-Caliente, a
little to the south of the present site of Puerto Ca-
bello, and the same that Spira and Federmann sought
some years before in their march through to the Llanos.
This pass being situated some fifty leagues east of
Coro, and no roads existing at that time, the little
band of Felipe de Urre had to follow the coast-line
intervening between both places, with no small incon-
venience to men and beasts, from the burning sands
and the quagmires they must have encountered.

The route being pretty well known already, Urre
had no difficulty in finding the pass ; and then fol-
lowing the line of march of his predecessors in their
famous perambulations through the Llanos, he reached
La Fragua, or Nuestra Senora, in safety, stopping
there for a while until the return of the dry season,
and to obtain further information respecting the mys-
terious land he was in quest of. His astonishment
was great, however, when he heard that, a few days
before, Hernan Perez de Quesada, with a large force
from Cundinamarca, had passed through that place- in
quest of El Dorado. Fearing that the Spaniard
might get ahead of him in this coveted conquest,
Urre left his winter quarters sooner than he had cal-

414: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

culated, and reached the country of Papamene. From
thence he might have gained easy access to the popu-
lous and well-stocked country of the Guayupes, but for
his obstinacy in keeping the track of Quesada in his
march southward. Although warned in time of the
dangers of this route by a friendly Indian3 who offered
to conduct him instead to the rich domain of Macatoa
in a south-easterly direction, the stubborn German
still persisted in his purpose, with no better luck
than his rival ; who barely escaped with his life, and
the loss of the greater portion of his followers, to the
high table-land of Papayan, after two years of wan-
derings and vicissitudes through the most dismal soli-
tudes and tangled forests.

Compelled by the approaching rainy season to
seek also the proximity of the mountains, and with
most of his force in a deplorable condition, Urre has-
tened to establish his winter quarters on a spur of the
Andes, which stretches far into the low lands, and
was named by them the Punta, or Cape of Los Par-
daos. But here an unexpected misfortune awaited
them ; for the district being scarcely inhabited, they
could find no provisions during their long wintry cap-
tivity ; subsisting, like Spira and his men, on reptiles
and the like. The greatest luxury they enjoyed at
times was a ball of corn-meal, well seasoned with a
species of red-ants, and roasted on the embers. The
game was easily secured by placing the moist paste
near the mouth of the ant-nest, which soon attracted
the insects, and when well covered with them, they
were kneaded together, the same operation being re-

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 415

pelted several times, until the roll contained more
insects than paste. Reduced, in consequence, to the
condition of walking skeletons, and most of them cov-
ered with the most loathsome tumors and ulcers, the
forlorn wanderers could hardly extricate themselves
from that theatre of their misfortunes, when the sub-
sidence of the waters allowed them to seek their old
quarters at La Fragua, to recruit before engaging in
new adventures.

Although the force had dwindled down to less than
half the number of those originally brought from Coro,
Felipe de Urre determined to resume his explora-
tions with only forty men, which was all that could be
got together, after leaving a sufficient number at La
Fragua for the protection of the sick. Remembering
the advice given him by the Indian guide of Papa-
mene to look for the country of the Omeguas in a dif-
ferent direction from that taken by Quesada in his
perilous pilgrimage, Urre set out in quest of Macatoa
— situated on the right bank of the great river Gua-
viare — as the most convenient centre for future opera-
tions against the warlike Omeguas.

Whether it was indifference on. the part of the In-
dians, or a preconcerted plan to bring their common
enemy to speedy destruction at the hands of the
Omeguas, the most powerful nation among them, the
fact is, that the invaders found no difficulty in pene-
trating as far as Macatoa by the help of Indian guides
and assistance. In like manner the lord of Macatoa,
on being informed of the purpose which had brought
the strangers thus far, received them with every

416 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

demonstration of friendship, giving up to them the
most commodious residences in the town, and assist-
ing them with provisions and attendants in abun-
dance. The same courtesies were extended to them
at their departure, although the Cacique warned his
guests of the perils they would encounter if they per-
sisted in attacking the Omeguas with so small a force.
In order to expedite their march, the Cacique sent
messengers ahead to apprise the lord of the next tribe,
his ally — situated some nine days' journey from Ma-
catoa — of their coming, and recommending them
strongly to his care and attention. On arriving there,
so captivated were the inhabitants with the novelty
of the strangers and their attire, especially with the
horses, that they became even more obsequious than
tho people of Macatoa, and, like these, warned the
lender of that squad of adventurers not to engage in
so desperate a combat with the Omeguas, represent-
ing likewise to Felipe de Urre that these people pos-
sessed also domestic quadrupeds of large size — proba-
bly llamas — which they could use like horses if they
chose. In addition to these facts the Spaniards were
reassured of the immense wealth in gold and silver
everywhere to be found among that populous nation,
which news so excited their avarice that, disregarding
all the chances against the success of their enterprise,
they hastened towards the goal of their expectations.
Perceiving that his arguments were of no avail
with the Castilians, to deter them from their rash un-
dertaking, the friendly Cacique offered to escort them
with a few of his subjects, on the road to the nation

THE LAND OF EL DORADO.

417

of the Omeguas, reaching the first of their outposts
in five days. It is related by the chronicles that,
having ascended some high ground near by, the Span-
iards descried a city of such extraordinary extent and
magnificence, that, although not very far off, they
could not see the end of it. The streets were straight,
and the buildings quite near each other ; among the
latter was to be seen a superb edifice of vast propor-
tions, which the friendly Cacique told them was the
palace of the lord of that city, whose name was Cua-
rica ; and that it served the double function of habita-
tion to his lordship, and temple to many gods; or idols,
of solid gold.

Here the Cacique, having accomplished his errand,
proposed to return to his own dominions ; but before
taking leave of his proteges, he advised Urre, as a last
token of his regard, to capture, at all hazards, the
men stationed at the post, before they should carry the
alarm into the city. The suggestion was fully appre-
ciated by the Commander and some oificers near him,
all of whom being on horseback at that moment, im-
mediately gave chase to the fugitive Omeguas. One
of these, finding himself hard pressed by Urre, who
rode ahead of his companions, turned round suddenly,
and struck the Commander so powerful a blow with
his lance, that it pierced right through his cuirass,
penetrating deeply into the ribs of the right side.
Disconcerted with the blow, and the pain inflicted by
the wound, Urre abandoned the pursuit, and turned
back to rejoin his companions, while the fugitives
made their escape into the city.
18*

418 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Greatly perplexed with this unexpected mishap
to their Commander, and fearing that, alarmed with
the report carried by the advanced guard into the city,
the Omeguas would immediately sally forth to encoun-
ter them in great numbers, the Spaniards, by the advice
of their friendly Indian guide, who still remained
by them, placing their wounded leader in a ham-
mock, resolved to retire at once from the neighbor-
hood. Their apprehensions were. soon realized; for,
in a little while, they heard the confused yells of the
multitude, amidst the ominous booming of big drums
and other war instruments, preparing for the attack.
Happily for the retreating Spaniards, night came on
soon after, which enabled them to place a good dis-
tance between themselves and the advancing columns
of the enemy.

On arriving at the village of their good friend the
Cacique, the first care was to attend to the chieftain's
wound, as well as circumstances would permit ; but
hardly were they established here, when the Cacique,
apprised by some of his people who were working on
their fields, informed Urre of the approach of the
Omeguas. Unable to place himself at the head of his
soldiers, the Commander ordered his lieutenant, Pedro
de Limpias, to give them battle at once, regardless of
their numbers, which, according to Oviedo, amounted
to not less than fifteen thousand. The ground being
favorable for the use of cavalry, Limpias headed the
charge with the few horses he had at his command ;
and although the Omeguas resisted for some time the
onset of those animals, — seen by them for the first time,

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 419

— they at last commenced to give way ; and the infan-
try soldiers coming up at this moment under the or-
ders of another brave captain, one Bartolome Belzar,
completed the rout of the clamorous hosts of Omeguas,
who have never since, to this day, been heard of ; for
Urre lost his life afterwards at the hands of a tyrant
who ruled the colony in his absence, as we shall see
presently ; and the country remains still a perfect
terra incognita, although several attempts were made
subsequently from Peru and Quito to find that mys-
terious land.

Convinced that, with the small force at his dis-
posal, it would have been more than rashness to un-
dertake the conquest of a city which, on so short a
notice, could raise fifteen thousand warriors, Urre de-
termined— so soon as his wound permitted him to
mount his horse — to return to Macatoa, and hence to
La Fragua, which he reached after an absence of three
months. Great was the joy in the invalid camp of
the Spaniards, on the return of their friends ; but
greater still, at the good tidings they brought of hav-
ing found the long-sought-for realms of El Dorado ;
for they had not the least doubt in their minds that
such was the country of the powerful nation whose
great city they had looked on with anxious eyes, but
dared not enter.

It is a singular coincidence that, while Gonzalo
Pizarro was engaged about this time in his ill-fated
exploration of the country of Canelos, the land of
cinnamon-trees, he heard from the Indians of Muchi-
faro, that not far from there — somewhat in the direc-

420 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tion of Felipe de Urre's discoveries — a great Sire, most
opulent in subjects and riches, and whose name was
Omeguas, or Omaguas, had his realms ; Pizarro sent in
consequence his kinsman and confidential friend, Fran-
cisco Orellana, to explore that region, with fifty men,
who were launched upon the swift current of the river
Napo' in a frail barge, constructed in the wilderness,
of very rude materials. But Orellana, probably dis-
gusted by this time with the sufferings already en-
dured, instead of searching for the " rich and fruitful
land abounding with gold," abandoned himself and
his companions to the current of the stream — one of
the greatest tributaries of the mighty Amazon — and
once on the bosom of the Father of Waters, sought
the broad Atlantic, which he reached in safety after a
run of two thousand miles. " But it is marvellous/'
Prescott says, " that he should escape shipwreck in
the perilous and unknown navigation of that river.
Many times his vessel was nearly dashed to pieces, on
its rocks and in its furious rapids ; and he was in still
greater peril from the warlike tribes on its borders,
who fell on his little troop whenever he attempted to
land, and followed in his wake for miles in their
canoes." *

The sufferings endured by Pizarro and his men on
this occasion, remind us of the miserable condition of
Jorge de Spira and Felipe de Urre on their retrograde
march to Coro. " Every scrap of provisions had been
long since consumed. The last of their horses had

* Conquest of Peru, vol. ii., p. 164.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 421

been devoured. To appease the gnawings of hun-
ger, they were fain to eat the leather of their saddles
and belts. The woods supplied them with scanty
sustenance, and they greedily fed upon toads, serpents,
and such other reptiles as they occasionally found."

But to return to the way-worn company under the
German leader, Urre, whom we left in rather a bad
plight at their haven of La Fragua. After a delib-
erate consultation among the principal captains of the
band, it was unanimously resolved to send to Coro for
reinforcements, and Pedro de Limpias having offered
his services to that effect, he was despatched forth-
with by Felipe de Urre with a good portion of his
force as an escort ; but suspecting, soon after, some
evil intentions on the part of his lieutenant, who was
always at loggerheads with the German element of the
troop, the Commander followed him soon after, with
the rest of the men.

Subsequent events proved that the apprehensions
of the gallant German were not unfounded ; for on
his approach to the settlements of the colony, he
learned that the government thereof had passed into
the hands of an usurper, a crafty lawyer, named
Carvajal, Kelator or Kecorder of the Audiencia of San
Domingo, who, by forgery of despatches from that
body, had managed to appoint himself Governor, in
the absence of the lawful incumbent of the post.
Felipe de Urre was, moreover, warned by his friends
of the machinations of his lieutenant, who, instead
of demanding the requisite contingent of men and
horses to prosecute his conquests, was plotting his

4-22 TRAVELS AND ADYENTURES.

destruction, and that of his countrymen, with the wily
Carvajal. This individual, whom all accounts repre-
sent as an unscrupulous tyrant and most accomplished
hypocrite, succeeded, nevertheless, in disarming Urre
and his adherents, all of whom he had the effrontery
to put to death, on some specious pretext concocted
between himself and the spiteful Pedro de Limpias.

Thus fell one of the bravest pioneers of South
America, and a most disinterested champion of its
early colonization. "None of the chieftains," says
Oviedo, " of the many that warred in the Indies,
stained his sword with blood less than he ; for, having
overrun more provinces than any one else in his pro-
tracted journey of four years' duration, his moderation
was impelled to war only when he found no other
means to obtain peace."

But the tyrannical rule of his murderer, Carvajal,
was only of short duration ; for about this time the
Emperor Charles the Fifth, cognizant of the excesses
practised against the unhappy aborigines — through
the representations of their zealous defender, the cele-
brated Father Las Casas — and the deplorable state
into which the country had fallen under the bad man-
agement of the German company, annulled the charter
granted to the latter, and sent an eminent jurist, the
Licentiate de Tolosa, with full powers to regulate the
affairs of the colony as Governor and Captain-General
thereof. On his arrival at Coro, Tolosa was soon
posted in regard to the conduct of the usurper Carva-
jal, who, for greater security, kept himself at a dis-
tance from the sea-coast, in the new settlement of

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 423

Tocuyo, far away in the interior. The Captain-Gen-
eral managed things so well, however, that he con-
trived to pounce upon the wretch, one night, when
least expected ; and having tried, and found him
guilty of the crimes imputed to him, he sentenced
him to be hanged — after being dragged on a hide
through the streets of the town — from the same tree,
a splendid Ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, in the centre of
the plaza, which the tyrant had polluted with his
numberless atrocities, making use of it as a gibbet
during his executions.

We shall not follow the other conquerors in their
restless search for El Dorado, now in one direction,
now in an opposite quarter, until it was brought
within the embrace of the mighty Orinoco, where
Kaleigh's last adventure was terminated by his unsuc-
cessful atrack upon Santo Tome de la Angostura,
the present Ciudad Bolivar, where we must resume
our journey.

Although the river has been well known for the
last three hundred years, the country within its
boundaries, properly called Guayana, has remained
comparatively ignored by the outside world until these
latter years. A few settlements along its southern
shore, and these principally controlled by priestly ex-
clusiveness, was all the advancement that had been
made there up to the destruction of the missions by
the war of independence. Since then the country had
nearly returned to its primeval state of savageness,
when the "gold fever," that most potent excitant

424 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of all distempers, aroused the lethargic apathy of the
inhabitants, and now bids fair to communicate itself
to people of keener sensibilities.

It is possible that the missionary fathers, who had
for a long time entire control of the scattered^villages
south of the Orinoco, were well informed respecting
the existence of the gold fields which are being
brought to light just now ; but the frailes — all of
them European Spaniards, and consequently strong
supporters of their cause — were wantonly massacred
by some staff officers of General Bolivar, and not one
of them left to reveal the source of their reputed
wealth. And, what is most singular, the learned Hum-
boldt, who explored the Orinoco in nearly its whole
course, devotes an entire chapter to prove the non-
existence of gold in Guayana, especially on the spot
where it has been found in the greatest abundance ;
although, with his characteristic reserve and far-see-
ing perspicuity, he concludes with these words :

" Though the celebrity of the riches of Spanish
Guiana is chiefly assignable to the geographical situ-
ation of the country and the errors of the old maps, we
are not justified in denying the existence of any aurif-
erous land in the tract of country of 82,000 square
leagues (250,000 square miles), which stretches be-
tween the Orinoco and the Amazon, on the east of
the Andes of Quito and New Granada. What I saw
of this country between the second and eighth degrees
of longitude, is entirely composed of granite, and of a
gneiss passing into micaceous and talcous slate. These

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 405

rocks appear naked in the lofty mountains of Parima,
as well as in the plains of the Atabapo and the Casi-
quiare. Granite predominates there over the other
rocks : and though in both continents, the granite of
ancient formation is pretty generally destitute of gold
ore, we cannot hence conclude that the granite of
Parima contains no vein, no stratum of auriferous
quartz."

The error of the great traveller in this respect is
assignable to the fact that he never left the bed of the
Orinoco, which is bordered, as he states, by ledges of
primitive formation. The auriferous deposits of the
State of Guayana are found in a range of mountains,
having a general course north-east and south-west,
about a hundred miles south of the Orinoco river,
precisely where Sir Walter Kaleigh placed his El Do-
rado de la Parime.

Through the courtesy of J. B. Austin, Esq., of
Philadelphia — a gentleman of refined cultivation and
thorough American energy, who has lately returned
from that region — I am enabled to place before my
readers the subjoined letter, containing an accurate
statement concerning the so-called " fabulous " realms
of El Dorado,* as- they now are :

" The streams having their sources in these moun-

All fables have some real foundation ; that of El Dorado resem-
bles those myths of antiquity which, travelling from country to country,
have been successively adapted to different localities." — Humloldt^
vol. iii., p. 26, Bohris Edition.

426 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

tains, generally flow into the Cuyuni and Masaruny
rivers, tributaries of the Esequibo, though some run
into the Carom, one of the great tributaries of the
Orinoco. As these gold deposits are approached, the
geological features of the country undergo an impor-
tant change. Quartz appears in immense quantities,
running in broad veins through the savannas, or
thickly distributed over great extents. This is often
auriferous to a slight degree. South of the Yuruary
river the system of plains is left behind, and here are
ranges of hills and mountains covered with dense,
gloomy, tropical forests, and intersected with numer-
ous streams and rivers. The principal formation, or
' country rock/ is highly metamorphosed talcose and
chloritic slates, broken often by upheavals of granite,
and traversed by veins and ledges of quartz, from
thirty inches to ' ninety feet wide. All this is aurif-
erous, free gold in quartz, and of a richness incredible,
until seen and explored. The earth, rocks, and beds
of streams all yield gold in the greatest profusion,
and over ten thousand men are now at work there
without any scientific direction, and with the poorest
appliances for labor, but all doing well, many accu-
mulating large sums of money. Every part of their
labor is by hand, and their tools and implements of
the most ordinary character.

" Here is timber sufficient for ages of consumption ;
abundant supplies of water ; a quiet, orderly people ;
good government, and deposits of gold apparently in-
exhaustible. It seems strange that such a country
has remained so far hidden for such a length of time.

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 427

It was known to the aborigines, for we find their old
pits, implements and pottery. Even as late as the
time of Sir Walter Kaleigh it was known to the
Indians, and that gallant leader made four attempts
to penetrate its fastnesses, but each time was
driven back by the Spaniards. Evidently it was
known to the Capuchin fathers, who colonized and
christianized that section of South America ; but
by them it was held as a great secret, and upon
their overthrow and massacre, in 1815, the trace
was lost, until accidentally discovered again a few
years since.

" It is a remarkable fact also, that the State of
Guayana, since the date of its independence from
Spain in 1812, has remained free from those internal
dissensions and strifes so common in South American
states. Its inhabitants are orderly, honest, and in-
dustrious ; their pursuits pastoral and agricultural,
and its rulers men of great political ability and en-
larged liberal views.

" The climate of the State is salubrious, and the
communications with the mines good ; wagons can
pass from the river to them in five days, and steamers
run every fortnight from the river to England and
France in eighteen days, and monthly to New York
in twelve days.

" In a scientific point of view the country is most
interesting. It is emphatically an unexplored field ;
its geology, natural history, and botany, almost un-
known ; pictorially it- is very beautiful ; protection to
life and property absolutely safe ; and though some-

428 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

what rough in its accommodations, still most interest-
ing to the traveller.

" With such unbounded sources of wealth within
its borders, so accessible to the great centres of com-
merce, and under such an enlightened administration
of public affairs, it requires no gift of prophecy to
foresee the rapidity of development now opening for
the great and prosperous State of Guayana.

"The scenery throughout the canton of Upata
partakes more of the pastoral character, its most
marked feature being quiet beauty. There are places,
such as the site of the mission of Santa Maria, the
approach to the Yuruary from Guacipati, the great
palm forests near Palmar, and the mountain range
of Nuri, which are grand, even sublime ; but generally
the scene is more park-like, the mountain forms quiet,
the savannas sweeping off in long swells, with trees
scattered over them singly, in groups, or groves, seem-
ingly as if planted by man for pictorial effect. The
valleys are fertile and luxuriant — all the produc-
tions of the tropical zone maturing almost without
labor ; the savannas furnish rich pasturage for tens
of thousands of cattle — the forests are prolific in woods
of the greatest value — the streams rapid, and their
water good.

" The auriferous deposits beyond the Yuruary have
been traced from that river through to the Ventuari,
about four hundred miles ; not, for all this distance,
by continuous exploration, but in detached efforts,
penetrating from the Orinoco at various points, and
always striking the same general system of veins."

THE LAND OF EL DORADO. 429

As I understand that Mr. Austin is engaged in
writing a book on this important subject, I abstain
from further comments in the matter, convinced as I
am, that no one is better calculated than himself to
enlighten his countrymen respecting a region emi-
nently adapted to the enterprising energy of the
Anglo-Saxon race.

" Son arboles y piedras un tesoro,
Los montes plata y las arenas oro."

BAEALT, Oda a Colon.

In its trees and its stones are treasures untold,
Its mountains are silver, its sands are of gold.

NOTE. — According to the official returns of the State of Guayana
which I have before me, the exports of gold through the Custom-
house of Ciudad Bolivar for the mouths of April and May, 1867,
amounted to $158.815.00.

By Steamer Pioneer, 1194 ounces, or $28.568.00
" " " 1800 " " 43.200.00

" Bark Rosedale 362Y " " 87.032.00

6620 $158.800.00

This much without taking into consideration the vast amounts
which are carried away by private individuals, without passing
through the Custom-house to avoid the export duty levied on gold by
the Venezuelian government.

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO.

I FEAK that the description of the land of El Dorado
has already been extended beyond the limits assigned
to that chapter ; otherwise we might continue our
voyage down the noble river, and visit other points of
attraction along its course ; such as the falls of the
Caroni, three miles above its confluence with the
Orinoco. On its margins grows the beautiful Bom-
plandia trifoliata, which yields the Angostura-bark of
the pharmacopeia — next to quinine, the most effica-
cious antidote against the miasmas of these regions. It
also furnishes the principal ingredient in the compo-
sition of the fine bitters manufactured there under
that name. By descending the river still farther, we
might enter any of the thousand channels into which the
Orinoco divides itself before it empties into the Atlantic
Ocean, and there take a look at the curious race of
men — the Waraun Indians — living on trees like apes,
for want of dry land upon which to stretch their
limbs ; or in rude huts built on piles driven in the soft
mud of the Great Delta. But as the time draws near

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. 43 \

for our departure from the Llanos, and the rivers com-
mence to overflow the plains, we will reascend the
Orinoco and rejoin our friends, who await us impa-
tiently on the banks of the Apure ; or else we might
find ourselves, like Spira and his companions, cut off
from the rest of civilization. We shall also miss the
curious harvest — cosecha — of turtles' eggs, which
is gathered about this time upon the sand-islands of
the Orinoco, just above the mouth of the Apure.
Here the great turtles called arraus by the Indians,
and tortugas by the whites, assemble in vast multi-
tudes during the dry season to perfect the incubation
of their eggs. This they accomplish by digging pits
in the sand with their hind feet, in which they deposit
the eggs, covering them afterwards very carefully, and
entrusting the rest of the operation to the heat of the
sun. The people from far and near this el dorado of
eggs and turtles, then hasten to these sand-banks, and
provision themselves for " a rainy day " at the expense
of the lawful tenants of those islands.

Other travellers having already studied the habits of
these amphibia in their native habitat, we may avail
ourselves of their experience in forming some idea of
their prodigious increase, in spite of their sluggish
habits. I may mention, among others, Humboldt and
Bates, who have given to the world very graphic ac-
counts of this singular " harvest," the former on the
Orinoco,* and the latter on the Amazon river.f But

* Travels to the Equinoctial Regions.
f The Naturalist on the Amazon.

432 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the most interesting account within my knowledge is
that of Father Gumilla, who, having spent many years
among these wilds, is entitled to special attention on
the part of the lovers of nature. As his book is very
rare and curious nowadays, I will, for the benefit of
my readers, give here a translation of the chapter de-
voted to the subject :

"OF THE EXTRAORDINARY HARVEST (Cosecho) OF

TURTLES GATHERED BY THE INDIANS OF THE
ORINOCO ; THEIR EGGS, AND OF THE PECULIAR
OIL OBTAINED FROM THEM.

" So great is the number of turtles in the Orinoco
river, that whatever I may say on this subject will fall
far short of the actual truth ; and I even fear that
many, in reading my authentic account of what I myself
have repeatedly seen, experienced, and touched with
my own hands, will accuse me of exaggeration ; but
it is a fact that it would be as difficult to count the
sands of the extensive banks of the Orinoco, as to
compute the immense number of turtles which it har-
bors on its borders and in the depths of its currents.

" Some idea may be formed of the enormous con-
sumption of these creatures, when we say that all the
tribes and people of adjacent countries, and even from
those farther off, frequent the Orinoco with their fam-
ilies to secure what I termed the harvest of turtles ;
for they not only maintain themselves therewith during
the months that it lasts, but also carry away a large
supply of turtle-meat, dried by fire, and a still greater

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. 433

number of baskets of eggs, dried also by the same
means. But what principally attracts the people of
these tribes is the oil which they gather from the eggs of
said turtles, in large quantities, to anoint themselves
throughout the year twice every day, and to sell to the
more remote tribes who cannot, or through fear dare
not, go down the river Orinoco.

"As soon as the river begins to fall and to display
its first sandbanks in the month of February, the tur-
tles commence to show themselves, in order to deposit
their eggs in the sand ; those which appear first
are the small turtles called terecayas, weighing
scarce an arroba of twenty-five pounds ; these lay
twenty-two and sometimes twenty-four eggs, like hen's
eggs, but without the shell, instead of which they are
covered by two membranes, one soft and the other
thicker. With these terecayas other turtle also appear,
who, in the previous year, found no sand in which to
deposit their eggs, or were prevented from so doing by
the great number assembled there. These large tur-
tles, which, when three years old, weigh two arrobas
— as I have proved by the scales — deposit sixty-two,
and ordinarily, sixty-fourround eggs each, larger than
those of the terecayas, with stronger membrane, and
with which the Indians play ball on shore, or egg each
other in sport. In each nest of eggs there is one larger
than the rest, from which the male is hatched ; all the
others are females. About this time the Indians, of
various tribes, commence to arrive from all points of
the adjacent countries : some of them build their
straw huts ; others content themselves by driving poles
19

434: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

in the sand, from which to swing their hammocks. A
multitude of tigers also appear to turn up the turtles,
which they devour in spite of their strong cuirass ; &
circumstance which by no means adds to the pleasure
and satisfaction that the Indians derive from their ex-
cursion to the Orinoco, since, in spite of all their care,
scarcely a year passes in which the tigers do not devour
some of the poor Indians, who have no other mode of
keeping them off at night than by fires, which, so long
as they burn, keep the beasts at a distance.

" Fearing the heat of the sun — which often kills
them on the sand-banks — the turtles at first come out
only at nightfall to lay their eggs ; but, as the season
advances, the gathering is so great, that the multi-
tudes already out prevent the passage of still greater
numbers, which, with heads above water, are waiting
a chance to pass on ; and so soon as an opportunity
presents itself, they hasten to lay all their eggs at once
— the burthen of which they cannot support without
great inconvenience, — regardless of the sun and heat,
which often costs many of them their lives.

"I have noticed three curious facts with reference
to these turtle-nests : the first is, that after opening
with the utmost care the holes in which these animals
deposit their eggs, they take particular pains to close
them again, so as not to leave a trace by which the
nest may be found. For this purpose they leave the
ground perfectly even with the rest of the sand-bank ;
and in order that the marks of their feet may not
lead to their discovery, they pass over and around the
nest several times in succession before they quit the

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. 435

ground. All their precautions are in vain, however,
for wherever there are eggs, the sand remains quite
loose, and gives way under foot ; and by these means
the eggs are found in the early part of the season ; but
later, in the height of the harvest, there is no need of
looking for these signs ; for, in the same sands in which
the first turtles laid, the second, third, and scores of
others also lay their eggs in such prodigious quanti-
ties, that wherever the Indians may dig, they find them
in heaps, the animals themselves scattering them all
over the ground while excavating their own nests.

" The second curious fact that I have observed, by
driving a pole near to a newly-laid nest, is, that in
three days' time, the incubation of the eggs is not only
perfected, but the young turtles have broken through
the shell ; so great is the power of the sun and the in-
tensity of the heat absorbed by the sand.

" The third point noted by me is, that the young
turtles, on coming out of the shell — at which time
they are about the size of a half dollar, — do not leave
the nest by daylight, nature having taught them that
the heat of the sun will kill them, and the birds of
prey will devour them. They come forth, therefore,
in the silence and cool of the night ; and what has
most excited my admiration is, that although the hole
from which they emerge may be half a mile or more
from the river, they never mistake the road, but go in
a direct line to the water. This pleased me so much,
that I have repeatedly taken the turtles a great dis-
tance from the river, carrying them covered, and turn-
ing them around over and over again on the ground, in

4.36 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

order to make them lose their course ; but whenever
they found themselves free, they made straight for the
water, and I following them, admiring the wonderful
goodness of the Creator, who thus endows each of his
creatures with powers to find its natural element.
What a lesson to us, who, in spite of the hope of eter-
nal reward and the danger of everlasting punishment,
scarce succeed in taking the right path for that ulti-
mate goal for which the goodness and mercy of God
created us !

"About this time the Indians, both men and
women, rise very early, and the former turn over as
many turtles as they please, leaving them on their
backs in such a way as to render them incapable of
resuming their natural position ; for although they
strive with their paddles to right themselves, their
back is so high that they cannot touch the ground in
order to obtain a foothold. They are then carried by
their captors to the ranches, where they are made fast
by leaving them on their backs, as aforesaid. Mean-
while the women and children occupy themselves in
filling and carrying baskets of eggs and little turtles
to the ranches, making large heaps of the former, and
keeping the latter in the baskets to prevent their
escape into the river, which they always do whenever
they can. The men also dig holes in the sand down
to the level of the river, which are quickly filled by the
infiltration of the water, and place therein large num-
bers of baby-turtles, to be eaten as wanted ; each of
which makes a delicious mouthful, free from bones,
the very shells being soft and tasty. The number of

THE OIL-WELLS OP THE ORINOCO. 437

delicate young turtles eaten daily by the innumerable
families congregated there is incalculable. But the
quantity of eggs consumed is even greater, both as
food and for the extraction of oil ; so great, indeed,
that notwithstanding the size of the Orinoco river, it
is the opinion of the experts of that country that,
were it not for this extraordinary consumption of tur-
tles and their eggs, the increase of these animals in
the river would be such as to render it unnavigable ;
for boats would find it impossible to make way
through the immense number of turtles which would
appear were all these eggs to be hatched ; in which
opinion I participate also. In the same way, it is sa'd
that on the fishing-banks of Newfoundland, frequented
by so many vessels, the shoals of codfish are so immense
that the passage of vessels is seriously embarrassed and
delayed. It is also asserted that each fisherman can
catch as many as four hundred codfish per day.

"Let us now see how the oil is extracted, which,
as I have already said, is the chief attraction which
brings so many people to the Orinoco. After wash-
ing the canoes which have brought them there, they
draw them on the beach, and pour several pailsfull of
water into them : they then wash the eggs in baskets,
until not a grain of sand remains adhering to them,
and when perfectly clean, they are emptied into the
canoes and trod upon by children in the same way as
grapes are mashed in wine-making. Once full, the ca-
noes are left exposed to the sun's rays, and in due time
a fine and limpid liquid rises to the surface, which is
the oleaginous portion of the eggs ; so abundant is

438 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

this, that I have been surprised to see a frying-pan
placed dry on the fire, and after being heated, well
beaten eggs poured therein, which, on touching the hot
pan, gave forth sufficient oil to fry the omelet, with a
certainty that it never sticks to the pan.

"Whilst the heat of the sun is extracting this
fine oil, the Indian women place large pots over the
fire, and the men with fine shells, very suitable for the
purpose, remove the oil from the surface of the mix-
ture in the canoes, and carry it to the pots, where the
heat of the fire boils and purifies it. If, during the
operation of transferring the oil any of the beaten
eggs are taken along, they remain fixed in the bot-
tom of the pots. The oil, when purified, is put in
suitable jars, and is much finer and clearer than that
of olives, as I have proven to many Europeans, who
could hardly believe it, in the following manner. I
filled half a glass with olive-oil ; I then poured in a
like quantity of oil from the eggs of turtles ; when, lo !
they commenced to change positions from top to bot-
tom, first one and then the other, gradually mixing
together in the middle until they finally com-
mingled, losing their natural color and assuming an
albuginous appearance like watered milk ; the mixture
being left quiet for half an hour or more, the egg-oil
commenced to rise to the surface, and in a short time
remained on top of the olive-oil, just as the latter floats
on the surface of water, both resuming their natural
color. But to return to our narrative.

" At the dinner hour—although they are all the
while eating eggs and young turtles, just for the fun

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. 439

of it — a single animal will provide three large and
distinct dishes, ample for the largest family ; a
turtle, split on both sides, furnishing the following por-
tions, viz. : head and neck, the two hind legs, and
the pectoral paddles, which require a good-sized pot to
hold them. Before placing them in it, some large
lumps of fat are removed, yellow as the yolk of an
egg ; and' this is another source of gain, which the
Indians take home ; and as the turtle which gives the
least, yields two pounds of this fat, the profit is con-
siderable. The pot being placed on the fire, the
husband takes the shell which forms the turtle's back,
and the wife the breast-plate; and after carefully
chopping together the meat, fat, and great quantity
of eggs which still adhere to the shell, the latter serve
them as pots also,without the slightest danger of burning.
Before the mess is quite cooked, they put the shells on
the fireplaces, and make their first dish, the gigote, on
.the breast-plate, which is very delicious and tender ;
and even the breast-plate itself is sometimes eaten, as
it becomes impregnated with the fat, and is quite pal-
atable. The second dish is made from the hash pre-
pared on the shell taken from the turtle's back. This
is quite a treat, and is called garapaclio, I do not
know why. Finally, the third dish is the otta, or
bouilli, which ends the meal, and is washed down with
plenty of chicha,* which they take good care to pro-
vide themselves with in sufficient quantity for the
whole season.

* A kind of beer made from Indian-corn.

440 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

" One would scarcely believe how fat the children,
arid in fact the whole pack of them, grow during the
season ; but no wonder, for as the good Father Manuel
Koman, the Superior of our Orinoco missions, has often
assured me, although born in Olmedo, and grown in
Yalladolid and Salamanca, he did not miss the fine
mutton of those places so long as he could depend
upon the turtles of the Orinoco. Other Spanish
priests of the same missions expressed themselves in
like terms.

" The gain and benefit derived from these turtles
by the Indians does not stop here ; for, besides the im-
mense number of eggs which they consume, both as food
and in the preparation of the oil, they also carry away
great quantities of them, dried like figs in the sun ;
or by the heat of slumbering fires made underneath
horizontal trellises raised for the purpose. The amount
of eggs thus purloined can easily be imagined from the
fact, that these people will readily give in exchange
for a knife four basketfuls of them, each of which
contains at least one thousand eggs. They also carry
away as many turtles as they can conveniently stow-
in the canoes, without danger of sinking, tying them
securely therein to prevent their escape.

" Of this species of turtle, what most excited my
surprise was the immense number of eggs which each
of them has within itself ; for, besides the roe ready
to be laid this year, farther in they have the one for
the next season, of nearly the same size as the former,
but destitute of that covering or white membrane which
envelops the eggs ; then follow those for the third year,

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO.

about the size of musket-balls ; for the fourth year, of
the calibre for a fowling-piece ; for the fifth year, they
are no bigger than buckshot ; and at this rate they
decrease until they present a confused mass resembling
turnip and mustard-seed ; and God only knows for
how many years those creatures are endowed with
similar receptacles of life in embryo."

This much was observed and related concerning
the turtles of Orinoco by the reverend missionary
father in the early part of the seventeenth century :
let us now hear what the great philosopher of modern
times says in regard to these humble creatures ; for he,
too, spent several days among the children of nature
during the " harvest " of eggs and turtles provided for
them by their beneficent mother.

" I acquired some general statistical notions on the
spot, by consulting the missionary of Urvana, his
lieutenant, and the traders of Angostura. The shore
of Urvana furnishes one thousand botijas, or jars of
oil annually. The price of each jar at Angostura va-
ries from two piastres to two and a half. We may
admit that the total produce of the three shores, where
the cosecha, or gathering of eggs, is annually made, is
five thousand botijas. !N"ow, as two hundred eggs yield
oil enough to fill a bottle (limeta), it requires five
thousand eggs for a jar or botija of oil. Estimating
at one hundred, or one hundred and sixteen, the num-
ber of eggs that one tortoise produces, and reckoning
that one-third of these is broken at the time of lay-
19*

TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

ing, particularly by the ' mad tortoises/ we may pre-
sume that, to obtain annually five thousand jars of oil,
three hundred and thirty thousand arrau tortoises, the
weight of which amounts to one hundred and sixty-five
thousand quintals, must lay thirty-three millions of
eggs on the three shores where this harvest is gathered.
The results of these calculations are much below the
truth. Many tortoises lay only sixty or seventy eggs •
and a great number of these animals are devoured by
jaguars at the moment they emerge from the water.
The Indians bring away a great number of eggs, to eat
them dried in the sun ; and they break a considerable
number through carelessness during the gathering.
The number of eggs that are hatched before the people
can dig them up is so prodigious, that near the en-
campment of Urvana I saw the whole shore of the
Orinoco swarming with little tortoises an inch ia
diameter, escaping with difficulty from the pursuit of
the Indian children. If to these considerations be
added, that all the arraus do not assemble on the
three shores of the encampment ; and that there are
many which lay their eggs in solitude, and some weeks
later, between the mouth of the Orinoco and the con-
fluence of the Apure ; we must admit that the num-
ber of turtles which annually deposit their eggs on the
banks of the Lower Orinoco, is near a million. This
number is very great for so large an animal. In gen-
eral large animals multiply less considerably than the
smaller ones." *

* Humboldt, Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America.

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO.

443

So extraordinary do these things appear to those
not conversant with the wonders of
South America, that, to strengthen
my statements, I am often compelled
to quote from more familiar writers
on this subject, for fear of being ac-
cused of exaggeration, as has already
happened with reference to one simple
fact of every-day occurrence among
Indian hunters. I allude to the mode
of shooting turtles and crocodiles with
arrows of a peculiar construction, re-
ferred to at page 109, and which
appeared for the first time in previous
editions of my Wild Scenes in South
America. The London Saturday lie-
view of July llth, 1863, commenting
upon this — to others than the prac-
tised eye of an Indian — most extraor-
dinary feat of skill, appeals to one of
the best mathematicians in the king-
dom to learn if such a thing can be
done at all ; although in other respects
the remarks of the reviewer are highly
flattering to the book. I will endeavor
to show, on this occasion, that nothing
is easier when you know how to do it,
in support of which I could do no

Arrow used in Turtle better than appeal also to the testi-
shooting. mony of English authorities. Both

Wallace and Bates mention the fact in their re-

£4-4: TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

spective books of travel on the Amazon and Rio
Negro ; and the latter accompanies his remarks
with an accurate representation of the arrow used
for that purpose, which I reproduce on the previous
page, with the following paragraph alluding to the
mode of using it :

" Oardozo and I spent an hour paddling about.
I was astonished at the. skill which the Indians display
in shooting turtles. They did not wait for their com-
ing to the surface to breathe, but watched for the
slight movements in the water, which revealed their
presence underneath. These little tracks on the water
are called the Siriri ; the instant one was perceived,
an arrow flew from the bow of the nearest man, and
never failed to pierce the shell of the submerged ani-
mal. When the turtle was very distant, of course the
aim had to be taken at a considerable elevation, but
the marksmen preferred a longish range, because the
arrovv then fell perpendicularly on the shell, and en-
tered it more deeply." *

The writer goes on then to describe the arrow,
which corresponds in every particular with my own
description of it at page 109. En passant , I will
remark here that both books containing it came out
in London about the same time ; and I would
recommend to lovers- of travel and adventure the
perusal of Mr. Bates' interesting chapter on the

* The Naturalist on the Amazons, vol. ii., p. 260. London, 1863.

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO. 445

harvest of turtles' eggs among the sand-islands of
the mighty Amazon, as well as Humboldt/s nar-
rative on the same subject among those of its
brother river, the Orinoco ; both are exceedingly
entertaining.

But what will the mathematicians and military
men of Great Britain, or any other country, say,
when I tell them of an Indian who, for a small con-
sideration, would strike a medio-real — half a dime—-
with an arrow at an angle of 85° ? This was done by
placing the money on the top of a lime or lemon close
to the big toe of the archer's left foot ; he then would
bend backwarks, assisted by the right one, allowing
a sufficient space between the bow and the lime for
the arrow to turn down after being shot up in the air ;
and so certain was the aim that the savage made quite
a little fortune about the streets of Caracas, where he
exhibited his skill during the short visit which his
Cacique paid President Paez at the Capital.

It is also related of another Indian that he could
shoot a buzzard soaring above his head without look-
ing at the bird, guided only by the shadow cast upon
the ground about midday. In connection with this
the reader will find in the work of the Rev. J. C.
Fletcher, Brazil and the Brazilians, a wood-cut rep-
resenting an Indian archer shooting on his back at
a flock of ducks passing over him. A large and strong
bow is bent by his legs while he holds the butt-end of
the arrow in his hands — " In this way they are able
to shoot game at a great distance."

Although these things appear very wonderful to

446 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

us, who cannot even " draw a bow at a venture," we
should recollect that the very existence of the savage
depends upon the accuracy of his aim as, with lightning
speed, he flings the unerring arrow at his prey. No
one thinks of doubting the historical story about the
Parthian children who were obliged to bring down
their morning's meal from the top of a post with a
much more clumsy instrument — the sling, thereby
acquiring the wonderful dexterity for which their
warriors were famed.

Some may be inclined to doubt the truth of the
stories found in profane history, but will not dispute
the testimony of Scripture, wherein we are told that
the giant-warrior Goliah was slain by the youth
David, with only the help of a sling and a " pebble
from the brook." It may be said that it was by
Divine aid that David hit the mark so skillfully ; but
who shall presume to say that such aid is withheld,
because the being requiring it is a savage and not one
of the chosen race ?

And now, my dear reader, though such wonderful
exhibitions of skill as are related above may appear
to your mind as savoring strongly of the proverbial
exaggeration which is supposed to accompany the
relation of all extroardinary feats of the chase, yet, if
we reflect on the thousand examples which come
under our daily observation, illustrating the marvelous
inventive powers of man, and the manual skill re-
quired to produce and apply many of his inventions,
you cannot but conclude with me that there are latent

THE OIL-WELLS OF THE ORINOCO.

«

powers given to us by the great Master, which, when
awakened by necessity, can surmount obstacles and
attain ends involving a degree of physical as well as
mental perfection almost superhuman. A constant
supply of food is the first and greatest demand of
nature. To attain this, the inhabitants of the vast
wilds of South America have no other resource than
the game which their streams and forests afford ;
the acme of their savage education is to excel in the
skill and cunning of the chase ; their hunting im-
plements are necessarily rude and imperfect ; con-
sequently, great accuracy of aim, and steadiness of
nerve are required in their successful application.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

HAVING now accomplished the most difficult part
of our labors, namely, that of transporting three
thousand wild animals across a rising stream by such
primitive means, we took advantage of the few canoes
at our disposal to transfer ourselves and chattels to
the other side of the river. This was not so easily
done, as the creciente was rapidly gaining upon us,
with no small risk to our ponderous equipment, which
had to be landed on the sandy beach ; and unless
quickly removed, while waiting for another canoe-
load, our traps were in constant danger of being
carried off by the boisterous waves of the river. I had
thus the misfortune of being deprived of my hammock,
which circumstance compelled me to seek repose at
night on the stiff hide covers of the baggage — not a
very comfortable couch after a hard ride in the hot sun.

Our long train of baggage-mules and wild beasts
necessitated many stoppages by the way in order to in-
corporate stragglers, but more frequently to hunt anew
the runaways among the latter — not an easy task.

HOMEWARD BOUND. 44-9

The bulls especially showed a marked reluctance to
leave behind their bellowing harems in the everglades
across the river. Such was their love of home in this
respect, that wre were assured that most of those
which succeeded in evading our pursuit, made their
way back to their savannas in spite of the broad ex-
panse of water which separated them. Much valu-
able time and patience were lost in this way, while
the increasing inundation was following fast on our
steps, so much so, that long after we had left the
banks of the river on our rear, we had to wade through
a continuous sheet of water, which was every moment
rising above the fetlocks of our beasts. We also had
to ford several smaller streams, already swollen by
the rapid rise of the Apure ; but, as no canoes
could be had amidst those wilds, for love or money,
we availed ourselves of the primitive contrivance
devised on. such occasions by means of a raw hide
fashioned into a lighter. The trunks and boxes
were carefully piled inside the skin, and if a person
chose to avail himself of this frail barge, he had only
to sit steadily on the top of the baggage ; the load
was then carefully launched on the water, the other
end of the rope intrusted to the swimmer and towed
in safety to the other side. In this manner our pon-
derous Doctor and a few others who were unwilling
to expose their own skin to the tender mercies of the
caribes, were successfully ferried across, although it
required a steady nerve not to stir an inch and thus
upset the whole concern.

Our march across the prairies presented a splendid
sight and was suggestive of a long file of prisoners

£50 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

after a well-contested field of battle. At the head of
the column, which extended for upward of a mile,
marched a strong picket of horsemen, the Punteros,
guiding the caravan ; and on the sides and rear was
another file of men with lazos ready to unfold after
deserters. Lively tunes and whistling were kept up
by the men for the diversion of the cattle, which ap-
peared quite delighted with the music and in conse-
quence became less restive on the march.

When near San Jaime, I, together with a party
of young companions, having separated ourselves
from the rest and taken another route, lost ourselves
in the intricate passes leading to the village. This
circumstance, although it delayed us for some time
from reaching the camp, led us to an abundant field
of rich honey, the production of a small wasp called
matajey, which builds its nest on the branches of the
trees, in the shape of a large ball. The sting of this
insect is so distressing, that persons affected by it be-
come feverish and benumbed ; therefore, in order to
possess ourselves of its delicious honey-combs, we took
the precaution to smoke out the wasps by means of a
burning rag at the end of a long pole applied to the
mouth of the nest, when the whole swarm abandoned
it to the hunters without molestation.

It was almost dark when we arrived at San Jaime,
having hit accidentally upon the right path, after
wandering the whole day through the woods ; but,
being well supplied with honey and water, we did not
regret as much the loss of our dinner, as the fact of
its having been prepared by another kind of swarm,
but this time of pretty girls, who had assembled for

HOMEWARD BOUND. 451

the purpose at the cottage of our hospitable host. We
enjoyed, however, the pleasure of their unsophisti-
cated society for some time before retiring to our ham-
mocks where, fatigued by the toils of our previous ad-
venture, we speedily lost ourselves again in " sweet,
balmy sleep."

Being rather in a hurry to reach the pass before a
sudden rise of the creeks connected with the river Por-
tuguesa, we were up long before sunrise, and had
barely time to partake of a substantial breakfast, pre-
pared by our charming entertainers.

Immediately upon our arrival at the pass, we pro-
ceeded to force our cattle across the river, which being
less wide than the Apure, and our herds having be-
come more manageable after the long march, we were
enabled to execute it in better order and less time than
at the former river. Still we contrived somehow or
other to tarry here longer than was necessary, having
Wasted three days in accomplishing what might have
been the work of one. The fact is, that we were
rather taken up with our former feminine acquaint-
ances, especially at the close of day, when the party
assembled in the barracoon, destined for the fandango,
which was usually kept up the whole night.

Fitful accompaniment to these nocturnal revelries
was the deafening croaking of the toads and frogs,
now abounding by myriads in the marshes and quag-
mires of the vicinity. The shrill, metallic notes of
the frogs, and the hoarse croaking of their milky
brethren, are a feature which never fails to excite
the astonishment of strangers in those regions. The
former especially are so striking, that were an English-

452 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

man or American suddenly transported there, without
knowledge of these sounds, he would imagine himself
at home, in the neighborhood of ten thousand steam
whistles. I was assured by our friend B., with
reference to the toads of Guadarrama, a village on
the banks of the Portuguese, that one night he was
thrown down in the street by coming in contact with
one of these creatures, which he mistook for a boy in
a stooping posture. Indignant at, what he supposed,
the indiscretion of the fellow, B. was in the act of
kicking him away when, to his surprise, he perceived
the seeming boy slowly moving off in the shape of a
big toad !

This, of course, is another of B.'s great yarns,
which he endeavored to pass on us as veritable facts
occurring to him during his wandering peregrinations ;
but really, putting aside his extravagant stories, such
is the volume of voice and long-sustained sopranos,
bassos, and contraltos of the toads and frogs of South
America, that one would suppose they had lungs as
big as those of a manati. And as regards the size
that these creatures attain here, I may quote a
passage from a recent book of travels in those coun-
tries which, had it not appeared in London simulta-
neously with the first edition of the Wild Scenes in
/South America,* any one might be inclined to think
• — after reading the preceding remarks — that they had
been suggested by the perusal of the following par-
agraphs :

* See London Athenseum of August 3, 1863, which contains a full
review of both books.

HOMEWARD BOUND. 453

" In soft, dripping weather, the country roads be-
come almost impassable, and my favorite resource was
to sit still and read Tennyson or Longfellow ; but the
studies of a novice in Brazil, on a wet evening, are
strangely interrupted by the extraordinary proceedings
of frogs and toads of all sorts and sizes, which testify
their exuberant joy by the most discordant noises.
Croaking is no name for it. Some of the milder and
quieter kinds may perhaps be said to croak, but these
are soon silenced by another tribe, whose name is
Legion, grunting, snorting, and shrieking like a rail-
way train at full speed ; and when they stop for want
of breath, the ' wondrous song ' is taken up by larger
numbers of other detestable batrachyans, which keep
up a frantic revel of rattling and clattering, such as I
have never heard equalled, except by an intoxicated
chorus of May sweeps.

" Some of the toads are enormous. In one of my
mountain rambles I suddenly spied a very beautiful
lycopodium growing in large quantities on a moist
bank, and, without looking at my feet, sprang across
the path to gather a specimen. I stumbled over some-
thing very hard and immovable, and nearly measured
my length in the mud ; but I seized the lycapodium,
and then turned round to look at the obstacle. It was
a monstrous toad, nearly a foot long, with great yellow
pits around its spiteful eyes, and as ugly a brute as
ever I saw. He did not make the least attempt to
move, and seemed to be chuckling over the fact of
nearly upsetting a traveller. A friend of mine, how-
ever, told me that he had been offered a still larger

454 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

specimen as a present, which he declined to accept on
the ground of ferocity. He said it was as big as a hat,
it opened its mouth like an oyster, barked like a dog,
and flew at his legs ! A nice pet to keep in a straw-
berry-bed I " *

But I never was so struck with the power which
frogs alone can exert " in congress assembled/' as one
night that I accompanied — soon after our ret urn from
the Llanos — a military expedition to surprise a band
of revolutionists, who had been committing all sorts
of depredations on the plantations across the lake, and
were preparing to attack the town of Villa de Cura on
the road to the plains. We started from Maracay in
the early part of a rainy night, and had to take a cir-
cuitous route — it hardly deserved the name of road —
around the eastern end of the lake to reach the vil-
lage of Magdaleno (headquarters of the marauders)
before daylight. As the expedition had to be con-
ducted with much precaution, neither drums nor
bugles were allowed ; consequently all orders had to
be given viva-voce. But when we reached the nearest
point to the swampy borders of the lake, I do not
believe that even Stentor could have made himself
heard in the midst of that hellish uproar. To add to
our " confusion worse confounded/' the soil was so
spongy and drenched with the vernal deluge, that
infantry and cavalry — we had no artillery — were nearly
swallowed up by the mud before firing a shot at the

* South American Sketches, by Tho3. Woodbine Hinchliff, F. R. G. S.

HOMEWARD BOUND. 455

enemy ; fortunately we extricated ourselves before the
]atter were apprized of our approach by a volley fired
at our vanguard by one of their advanced posts near
the village, which, had they exhibited the least judg-
ment in military tactics, they might have stationed a
little further off, where we encountered a turbulent
stream which only a portion of our force with the
utmost difficulty could cross. As it turned out, we
entered the village pell-mell with their advanced
guard, and soon scattered them over the neighboring
mountains, where further pursuit was utterly im-
possible.

What a glorious chance these swampy realms of
Venezuela would offer some French gourmand desirous
of migrating to South America ! And yet, strange to
say, our people will not touch that epicurean bonne-
bouche., which has conferred a name upon a whole
civilized nation : les sauvages !

Another noisy creature that makes its appearance
about this time also, is the cJiicharra, an iasect of the
locust tribe, with which the woods are literally filled,
and whose sharp, shrill, and continuous chant almost
surpasses that of the frogs themselves. Fortunately,
they are only heard in the day-time ; and our route
being mostly over open prairies, we were not so
constantly tormented by them, except whenever we
had to pass through the woods infested by these noisy
insects. It seemed to me that for every leaf of those
truly gigantic trees there were twenty chicharras, all
singing at the top of their voices, without the least
intermission. What they live upon — for I did not

456 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

perceive any damage to the foliage of the trees — and
when do they get their meals, my observations could
not discover. Sullivan tells us of two other insects
of the tropics, which joined to the above, might rival
the nocturnal concerts of maitre crapeau.

" During our ride, I was startled by hearing what
I fully imagined was the whistle of a steam-engine ;
but I was informed it was a noise caused by a beetle
that is peculiar to Tobago. It is near the size of a
man's hand ; and fixing itself against a branch com-
mences a kind of drumming noise, which by degrees
quickens to a whistle. It was so loud that, when stand-
ing fully twenty yards from the tree where it was in
operation, the sound was so shrill that you had to raise
your voice considerably to address your neighbor. The
entomological productions of the tropics struck me as
being quite as astonishing in size and nature as the bo-
tanical or zoological wonders. There is another beetle,
called the razor-grinder, that imitates the sound of a
knife-grinding machine so exactly, that it is impossible
to divest oneself of the belief that one is in reality
listening to ' some needy knife-grinder ' who has wan-
dered out to the tropical wilds on spec." *

Some kinds of trees were also alive with another,
though quite harmless tenant, the iguana, a green
lizard measuring nearly four feet in length, and thick
in proportion round the body, whose flesh is said to
surpass that of the tenderest chicken, and, I imagine
— never having tasted it — even that of the celebrated

* Rambles in North and South America.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

457

French bonne-louche referred to above. The eggs
which it lays in great profusion, I know from per-
sonal experience, are quite sweet, and can be taken
out of the animal, without injury to the harmless
creature, by cutting it open and sewing it up again.
While at San Jaime I heard a story in connection
with this reptile, which is very characteristic of the
Spanish commanders during the war of Independence,
and whose memory is still fresh throughout the country
they overran with their exactions. It appears that
one of these gentlemen newly arrived from Spain, had
established his headquarters at San Jaime, which was
by this time pretty well cleaned out of everything that
moved upon the earth. One day, the soi-disant com-
mander was going his rounds about the town, when he
met an Indian boy carrying a brace of iguanas sus-
pended from a stick upon his shoulders ; these lizards,
by virtue of their aerial prerogative, or perhaps on ac-
count of their inexhaustible numbers, having escaped
the general onslaught upon other living creatures, not
excepting the inhabitants. The Spaniard, who had
never seen iguanas in his country, naturally had his
curiosity aroused, and at once instituted as close an in-
terrogatory respecting these, as if a doomed " insur-
gent " had been brought to him. " Say, boy, are they
good to eat ? " — " Si, Senor" replied the boy, who
probably had never tasted in his life any other kind of
food.' — " What will you take for them ? " (quite con-
siderate).— "Una peseta, Senor" (a quarter of a dol-
lar). A bargain was at once made to the satisfaction

of both parties, and the iguanas were handed over to
20

458 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

the orderly beside the commander, who gave the proper
directions to have them served for dinner ; and so
delighted was His Excellency with the dish, that he
published at once a bando offering a reward of twenty-
five cents for every brace of iguanas brought to him.
Three days afterwards he had to countermand the
order through another bando, threatening with capital
punishment any one who would dare to bring him
another brace of the horrid-looking creatures, with
which the juvenile portion of the town had by this
time filled his headquarters.

The favorite haunts of the iguana are the Ceiba,
and the Sand-box trees — lira crepitans — both brist-
ling with sharp thorns, a good protection against the
persecution of predatory boys ; otherwise these lizards
fall an easy prey, when perched upon more accessible
localities, by merely " whistling for them ; " for being,
as it appears, very fond of musical sounds, they are
readily lulled to sleep by that means, while the cap-
tors prepare a noose at the end of a long rod with
which they secure their victim. They do not always
fare badly, however, for being easily domesticated,
they are kept as pets by the female portion of the
household, where they become very useful in ridding
the cottage of cockroaches and other vermin. Their
bitterest enemies, however, are roving, lazy Indians,
who not only consider them a dainty morsel, but
take particular delight in tormenting these inoffensive
creatures by quartering them alive, and teazing them
in various ways ; thus, when any person is in a bad
plight his troubles are compared to those of the iguana

HOMEWARD BOUND. 459

in that predicament, as will be seen in the following
popular ditty :

Los trabajos de la iguana

Cuando los Indies la cojen,
Le quitan los cuatro patas

Y le dicen, iguana, corre !

When Indians seize the iguana

Her sorrows are begun,
They cut off her four feet,

And cry, " Iguana, run ! "

How different the case would have been if, instead
of the puny, harmless creatures that iguanas are at
the present day, their cruel tormentors had lived
in the times of their prototype, the Iguanodon, the
most colossal of the saurian reptiles, sixty feet in
length, with a horn on its snout as formidable as that
of the rhinoceros, and teeth sharp enough to munch
to a jelly the most stately Ceiba or Sand-box tree.
" It is difficult to resist the feeling of astonishment,
not to say incredulity " — observes Figuier — " which
creeps over one while contemplating the disproportion
so striking between this being of the ancient world and
its congener of the new/' * The Iguanodon was in
fact an iguana of huge dimensions, enjoying the free-
dom of the jungle with the Hylceosaurus and the
Megalosaurus — two other saurian monsters of the cre-
taceous period. The latter is represented as possess-
ing teeth in perfect accord with the destructive func-
tions developed in this formidable creature, for they
partake at once of the knife, the sabre, and the saw.

* La Terre avant le Deluge.

CHAPTER XXIX.

CALABOZO.

"WHILE quietly absorbed one day in the pleasures
of the angler by the banks of a creek not far from the
camp, I was startled in my peaceful occupation by
the report of fire-arms in that direction. There were
rumors concerning the depredations of a band of rob-
bers in that neighborhood, and therefore I had every
reason to suppose they had been bold enough to at-
tack our little band of resolute men with a view to
plundering the camp. To pack up lines and port-
folio was the work of an instant, and hurrying toward
the camp, I arrived breathless and panting with fa-
tigue in time to get the last glimpses of the cause of
this uproar in the shape of a lancha gliding quickly
down the river. It seems that the boatmen, delighted
with the presence of the beloved Chieftain of the
Llanos, immediately recurred to the usual way of ex-
pressing their enthusiasm, whether in peace or war,
through the means of the all-potent gunpowder. In
the afternoon of the same day a detachment of horse,
composed for the most part of citizens from Calabozo,

CALABOZO. 461

arrived at the pass to invite the general to their city,
and to offer him protection, in case of need, from the
band of desperadoes above mentioned ; these had al-
ready been bold enough to attack the prison guard of
Calabozo, with the object of carrying off one of its
inmates, a prominent citizen of the place who had
been implicated in the robbery of a large drove of
mules. Although it was currently reported that his
two sons were the perpetrators of this unworthy act,
yet, the fact that the animals were found on his estate,
and his stout refusal to implicate his sons, made him
responsible for the robbery ; he was therefore incar-
cerated and his trial had commenced when his sons,
adding sedition to theft, attacked the prison during
the night with a band of peons from their own and
other cattle estates. The result was most disastrous
to the assailants ; one of the sons having been badly
wounded in the strife was taken prisoner and shot in
the public square ; while the other forfeited his life
soon after during the vigorous persecution undertaken
by the citizens against his band. Yet, this handful
of men, badly armed and without leaders, but with a
wide field of forest and savannas for retreat, and
plenty of cattle for subsistence, continued for a long
time to engage the serious attention of the govern-
ment ; and finally, when the following revolution
broke out, they formed the nucleus around which the
rebel party mustered very strong. In this manner
many depredators not only evade the punishment of
justice for their crimes, but eventually rise in impor-
tance, and even become leading spirits in the land
where the laws are powerless in repressing their ex-
cesses.

462 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

With this encouraging prospect before us, we bade
adieu to the gay brunettes of La Portuguesa and took
the straightest route to Calabozo, across the great es-
tero or swamp of Camaguan. An entire day was
spent in wading through this refreshing transit route,
which, owing to the increasing rise of the river, had
already acquired the aspect of a broad lake. Our
horses were most of the time immersed in the water
up to the saddle girths, and few of them escaped total
submersion, wherever there were any depressions of
the ground. Many of the baggage mules especially,
having no rider to guide them, lost their footing and
rolled in the water, to the great discomfort of those
who had any articles of apparel in their loads. Tow-
ard the afternoon we emerged from this dismal
swamp and made a landing at a place called Banco
Largo, celebrated in the annals of the horse epidemic
as the cattle estate upon which the wrath of Heaven
fell after the blasphemous boasting of its owner.

We were beginning to appreciate the comfort of
riding again upon firm ground, when we observed a
group of horsemen emerging from the palmar on our
right, galloping in the direction of our scouts, as if
threatening to cut them off. Fearing lest they might
be the band of robbers whom we had every reason to
suspect of evil intentions, we put spurs to our horses
in hot chase of them. Mistaking us in turn for those
gentry, the strangers pushed on ahead of us to evade
our pursuit. Our scouts observing their retreat cut
off by a larger force, were not slow in their endeavors
to reach the farm-house, where they could defend
themselves against the supposed robbers until we

CALABOZO. 463

could come up to tlieir assistance. The suspected
party being mounted on fresh horses, we found it-
difficult, however, to overtake them. Fortunately
one of their horses stumbled accidentally in a hole,
throwing down the rider, which circumstance placed
him in our hands ; from him we ascertained that they
were not salteadores^ but vaguer os from a neighboring
cattle farm, whom the annoyances of the mosquilla
had compelled to ride through the palmar at robber's
speed. His companions observing that we permitted
him to depart in peace, now slackened their pace,
and had their fears dispelled before they could carry
the alarm to other places that the salteadores were
close at hand.

At Yenegas, a cattle State not far from Calabozo,
we parted company with our herds, abandoning their
care and guidance to the efficient caporals, while we
proceeded direct to the Palmyra of the Llanos, always
escorted by the citizen-guard who had come so far to
meet us. Another deputation from the city, com-
posed of the most prominent persons in the place, met
us at the pass of the Guarico, and after a few congrat-
ulatory compliments, we rode on without stopping
until we reached the village of the Mision de Abajo,
Here we remained long enough to change our wet
garments and partake of a collation prepared at the
summer residence of an old soldier of Independence.
This village is famous on account of several crystalline
springs issuing from deep gullies made by the water
on a hard conglomerate composed of sand, pebbles,
and nodules of beautiful agates ; the whole cemented
together by a calcareous substance, consisting probably

4:64 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

of minute shells of infusoria.* Some of the pools
measure several fathoms in depth ; yet the water is
so transparent, that the smallest pebble can be clearly
discerned at the bottom ; I also noticed many small
fish. These sparkling natural fountains were shaded
by groves of balsamiferous plants, such as cop aif eras,
amyris, and carob-trees, the dark foliage of which
was relieved by a carpet of green grass extending for
miles around, the whole presenting an appearance of
a well-cultivated and beautifully laid out English
park. Thither resort, during the sultry months of
summer, the inhabitants of Calabozo, who now came
out in vast numbers to welcome us to their beautiful
city.

The procession was formed on the extensive nat-
ural lawn, three miles in length, between the village
and the city, which rose in the distance amidst the
towering foliage of the fan-palms surrounding it in
oriental magnificence. As we entered the narrow,
but cleanly streets, the firing of muskets, pistols, and
blunderbusses commenced amidst the vivas of the
population, while a shower of roses fell on the favored
head of the " Lion of the Llanos,'7 f as he passed under
the windows of the houses.

The city of Calabozo, capital of the province of
El Guarico, is situated upon the northern extremity
of the mesa or plateau of the same name, command-

* See Darwin, Geology of the Pampas, pp. 129-171. Murray, 1852.

f Leon de los Llanos, or Leon de Payara — the appellation given to
General Paez by the people after the action of San Juan de Payara in
1837, when he defeated with his body-guard of sixty Llaneros the forces
of the rebel chieftain Farfan, numbering one thousand.

CALABOZO. 465

ing an extensive view of the picturesque country
watered by the beautiful river which gives its name
to the province. Unlike all the other towns of the
Llanos, Calabozo is an extremely well-built city, with
streets running at right angles. The houses are neat
and commodious, ranking with the best in the capital
of the republic. It contains a number of fine churches,
one of which was built at the expense of a wealthy
cattle proprietor of the place ; it is one of the finest
temples in the country.

"Words cannot do justice to the enthusiastic recep-
tion and boundless hospitality extended to us on this
occasion by the generous inhabitants. In addition to
the regular entertainments, such as breakfast and
dinner-parties, balls, &&& fandangos provided daily in
their city residences, we were occasionally treated to
a fete champetre, d la llanera, in their quintas or
country-houses. Most of these are situated on the
banks of the beautiful Guarico, on the slopes of the
plateau upon which the city is built ; and there,
amidst the most luxuriant groves of orange, lemon,
and other tropical fruits, the abundant fare was served
to us in true Llanero style. In the mean time the tro-
vatori of the Llanos did not fail to enliven the scene
with their never-ending trovas llaneras, in which espe-
cial mention was made of the most prominent persons
to whom we were indebted for this munificent hospi-
tality ; but more particularly to the past deeds of the
personage who prompted it. The broad fan-shaped
leaves of the moriche-palm (Mauritia flexuosa) — the
celebrated Tree of Life of the "Warraoun Indians —
supplied the most appropriate table-cloths on these

20*

466 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

occasions, spread in the vicinity of some murmuring
spring, issuing in most cases from the foot of the
palm-trees. The natives believe that this plant pos-
sesses the power of pumping water from the ground
by means of its matted roots : they evidently con-
found cause and effect in this, as well as in many
other cases ; for this luxuriant palm will not thrive
except in moist ground. The slopes of the mesa act-
ing as a vast drain to the plain above, offer this de-
sideratum to the moriche-j>&\m. Some of the springs
are of a thermal character, but not too warm to pre-
vent persons enjoying a most refreshing bath. I
noticed, in one instance, two springs running side by
side, one of which was cold and the other warm. The
tide-flooded lands on the Lower Orinoco and Amazon
rivers seem to be particularly adapted to the develop-
ment of this noble * species of palm. " In those
places," says Wallace, f " there is no underwood to
break the view among interminable ranges of huge
columnar trunks, rising unbroken by branch or leaf
to the height of eighty or a hundred feet, a vast nat-
ural temple, which does not yield in grandeur and
sublimity to those of Palmyra or Athens."

A full-grown leaf of this tree is quite a load for
one man to carry. The petiole, or leaf-stock, is a solid
beam ten or twelve feet long, while the leaf or .fan
itself measures nine or ten across. The fruit, in
bunches of three hundred and upward, perfectly re-
sembles the cones of the white pine. "When arrived at

* Linneus, in his enthusiasm for the splendid family of palms, calls
them the princes -of the vegetable kingdom,
f Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro.

CALABOZO.

its maturity, it is yellow within and scarlet without,
covered with scales.

The benefits of this life-supporting tree may be
reckoned as numerous as the number of days in the
year. From the unopened leaves the wild man of the
ibrest obtains a fibre remarkable for its toughness, and
which he twists into cordage for his bow-string and
fishing tackle, or weaves it into elegant hammocks
and aprons for himself and family ; he also plats them
neatly into mats and cloaks, and even sails for his
canoe ; when fully expanded, these leaves form the
best thatch for his hut. From the terminal bud or
inner layer of leaves, commonly styled the cabbage
of the palm, the Indian procures a vegetable quite
analogous to, and more tender and delicious than a
similar production of the garden. The fruit in like
manner affords a variety of alimentary substances, ac-
cording to the season in which it is gathered, whether
its saccharine pulp is fully mature, or whether it is in
a green state. Like the plantain and the celebrated
peach-palm of the Rio Negro, it is either eaten raw,
when fully ripe, or roasted — in the latter case tasting
very much like chestnuts. Soaked in water and al-
lowed to ferment, it forms a pleasant drink somewhat
resembling pulque. The ripe fruit also yields by boil-
ing in water, an oil which is readily converted into
soap by means of the ashes of a Clusia, (quiripiti.)
" The spathe, too — a fibrous bag which envelops the
fruit before maturity — is much valued by the Indian,
furnishing him with an excellent and durable cloth.
Taken off entire, it forms bags in which he keeps the
red paint for his toilet, or the silk cotton for his ar-

468 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

rows, or he even stretches out the larger ones to make
himself a cap, cunningly woven by nature without a
seam or joining. "When cut open longitudinally and
pressed flat, it is used to preserve his delicate feather
ornaments and gala dresses, which are kept in a chest
of plaited palm-leaves between layers of smooth bussu
cloth." * The trunk of the male tree contains a fari-
naceous meal, yuruma, resembling sago, and like the
fecula of the tapioca-root, it is readily converted into
bread by simply drying it on hot earthen plates.
Allowed to rot in the stem, this meal "gives birth to
numerous fat worms, highly esteemed by Indian gour-
mands. Tapped near the base of the leaves, the trunk
yields also an abundance of a sweet liquor, which,
when fermented, forms one of the various kinds of
palm-wines. Such are in substance some of the most
useful products of this veritable tree of life, with which
the existence of a rude people is as intimately con-
nected, as that of civilized man is with the luxuries
and comforts that surround his home. " When the
Tamanacks," says Humboldt, " are asked how the
human race survived the great deluge, the ' age of
water ' of the Mexicans, they say : ( a man and a
woman saved themselves on a high mountain, called
Tamanacu, situated on the banks of the Asiberu, and
casting the fruit of the moriche-palm, they saw the
seeds contained in these fruits produce men and
women who repeopled the earth.' Thus we find in
all its simplicity, among nations now in a savage
state, a tradition which the Greeks embellished with
all the charms of imagination."

* Wallace, Palms of the Amazon and Rio Negro.

CALABOZO. 469

To protect themselves from the attacks of mosqui-
toes and wild beasts, the tribes roaming over the
great delta of the Orinoco, are in the habit of raising
between the huge trunks of the palm-trees hanging
platforms skilfully interwoven with the foliage, which
allow them to live in the trees like monkeys. The
floor of these aerial habitations is covered with a coat-
ing of mud, on which the fires for household purposes
are made. Thus when the first explorers of the Orino-
co River penetrated for the first time into that exu-
berant terra incognita, they were surprised to observe,
among the tops of the palm-trees, flames issuing at
night as if suspended in the air. " The Guaranis still
owe the preservation of their physical, and perhaps
their moral independence, to the half-submerged,
marshy soil over which they roam with a light and
rapid step, and to their elevated dwellings in the
trees, a habitation never likely to be chosen from
motives of religious enthusiasm by an American Sty-
lites." *

I also met for the first time at Calabozo with the
most splendid rose-bush, or rather tree, I had ever
seen, and which appears to be indigenous to that hot
region, as I am told that the same grows in great
luxuriance at San Fernando and Ciudad Bolivar, but
was unknown to the rest of the country previous to
our visit to the Llanos. Being passionately fond of
flowers myself, I did not neglect to bring along with
me this beautiful new variety to our home in the
Yalleys of Aragua, where it soon displayed its count-

* The followers of a sect founded in Syria by the fanatical pillar-
saint, Simeon Sinanites. — HUMBOLDT.

470 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

less blossoms to the admiring gaze of the passers by.
From thence it was also carried by me to Caracas,
where it soon became the general favorite of the fair
dames of the Capital, who by unanimous accord
named it, not as might be supposed after the intro-
ducer, but after his father, with which the former was
equally well satisfied ; and certainly no more beauti-
ful compliment could have been paid their favorite
champion, than by associating his name with the
acknowledged Queen of Beauty among flowers. The
size attained by this plant surpasses any thing of the
kind with which I am acquainted. When favored by
a dry and hot climate like that of Calabozo, its shoots
attain a height of fifteen to twenty feet with a cor-
responding thickness ; so that a hammock with its
usual load can be supported between two trees ; and
as these put out a great number of branches, each of
them loaded with flowers or buds ready to expand,
they present a sight truly splendid. A hundred blos-
soms may be plucked each morning of the year with-
out marring its luxuriant beauty. I have myself
counted over one thousand buds on a single plant.
These flowers are of a delicate pink color, with very
regular petals of a deciduous nature ; so that in de-
taching themselves from the calix, they cover the
ground upon which the parent grows, with a rosy
carpet.

" Sin flores y sin hermosas

Que fuera de los mortales ?
Bien habeis nacido, rosas,
Sobre el lodo de los males."

— AKOLAS.

CALABOZO. 471

TRANSLATION.

" Without beauty, without flowers,
What would be this world of ours?
Well, that e'ei\in misery dire
Find we roses 'mid the mire."

The truth of the above sentiment we soon realized ;
from this time a succession of misfortunes, commencing
with a violent attack of fever which nearly carried us
all to the grave, and ending with the destruction of
our property and peaceful homes, followed one another
without intermission.

The fever was doubtless induced by our previous
exposure on the journey and subsequent dissipations
at Calabozo, although the city itself is one of the
healthiest spots in the republic. Unfortunately, our
physician, who was blessed with a very jealous wife,
had been summoned home by his better half on hear-
ing of our approach to the fairy metropolis of the
Llanos. However, there were two or three medical
gentlemen in the place, and these, with the unremit-
ting kindness and assistance of the ladies, managed
to keep us alive until a skilful physician, who had
been sent for, arrived from the Yalleys of Aragua.
The critical condition of our respected Leader and sire
particularly gave them serious fears, as the fever in
his case had commenced to assume a malignant char-
acter. Courier after courier -was despatched across
the miry plains to hasten the arrival of the doctor,
while the generous inhabitants vied with each other
in the anxious cares with which they surrounded the
sick-bed of their beloved guest. Years have rolled
on, and many changes have since taken place, both

472 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

in the affairs of the nation and in the fortunes of the
subject of these remarks ; yet, their love for the
" Martyr of San Antonio," * far from diminishing,
seems to have increased dflring his protracted exile ;
for, as late as 1861, after the overthrow of Monagas,
a petition addressed to Pres. Tovar asking his recall,
and signed by all the inhabitants of Calabozo, has
come to hand, protesting in the strongest terms against
the impolicy and injustice of leaving him still in exile
when the nation most needs his counsel and influence.
Justly deprecating the horrors of civil war and the
want of unity which have existed in the republic since
the downfall of the Monagas party, the petitioners
conclude with this feeling outburst of patriotic solici-
tude for the absence of their favorite champion :
" From the far-off shores of the Arauca, to the sources
of our own Guarico, our anxious horsemen watch in-
cessantly the far horizon, inquire from the passing
breezes of the destinies of the Hero, who has con-
demned himself to voluntary exile, and then exclaim
with a sigh : ' "Were he again to lead us on to battle,
Victory would be forthcoming, strengthened by Peace,
and blessed by the vanquished.' '

* San Antonio, an old castle in Cumana, where General Paez was
kept in durance for nine months by the late ruler of Venezuela, General
Jose T. Monagas.

CONCLUSION. 473

CONCLUSION.

Here, courteous reader, end our rough journeys
across the Llanos, and our real troubles commence ;
for having been involved — contrary to my own incli-
nation, it must be owned — in the political strifes so
prevalent in Spanish America, I have been compelled
to wander ever since, from land to land, like the mys-
terious Jew of the French novelist, Eugene Sue,
with neither settled home nor abiding place of rest.
What I saw and learned worth relating during my
peregrinations, hither and thither, will make the sub-
ject of the Second Series of these sketches, which, if
your patience is not exhausted or my repertoire does
not give out, I trust to lay before you at no distant
day. In the meantime you must excuse any imper-
fections in the style and composition of this book
considering that I write in a language which is not
my own, and which often perplexes even those who
have more claims to it than myself, so many are its
grammatical irregularities.

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY

F

231M

P1H

1868

C.I

ROBA