Travels in Asia, Australia and America. Comprising the period between 1879 and 1887

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Asia Australia ^ Aerica

COMPRISING THE PERIOD BETWEEN 1879 AND 1887.

TTHIVSRSITY

BARON WILHKLM VON

(Saxe-Coburg-Gotha,)

F. L. S., corresponding member of the American Geographical Society,
etc., etc., etc.

PART I-l&r

NEW YORK: GEORGE LANDAU,

1888.

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1888, BY

BARON WILHELM VON LANDAU,
IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS, AT WASHINGTON, D. C.

TO THE HONORABLE

SHARLES P. BALY, b. k.B.,

President of the American Geographical Society and Ex-Chief Justice
of the Court of Common Pleas, of the City of New York;

Honorary member of the Imperial Geographical Society of Russia, of the

Geographical Societies of Berlin and Turin, and corresponding

member of the Royal Geographical Society of London;

Honorary member of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Medico-Legal
Society, and Mercantile Library Association of New York,

WITH HIGH ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE.

THE AUTHOR.

T

PREFACE.

*ir*HE leading idea which has governed the prepara=
tion of this little work has been to precisely relate,
the personal experiences of the author in different parts
of our planet. The standpoint which he takes is
partially that of a tourist, at the same time offering all
the statistical and geographical data he possibly could
obtain, and he wishes to be distinctly understood that
in making these extensive, long lasting travels, he was
not led by any other motive than the mere love for
science, nature and art.

Though, among explorers, only one of the "(Dii
minor es," I found sufficient reward in the honorable
mention of my expeditions and the scientific apprecia=
lions in the reports of the <( Gesellschaft fur Erdkunde"
(Society for the Enrichment of the Knowledge of the
Earth), the Ethnologic (Periodical and the lectures of
(Professor (Doctor Virchow, of Berlin.

Many of the tropical and subtropical plants, etc.,
with which I had supplied some countries in Europe
and Africa for acclimatization, thrive well according
to statements received, and promise to become a source
of revenue.

revue

This also, adds to the pride I feel in passing
over a period of eight years' travelling, devoted exclu=
sively to science.

Owing&the success of my explorations, especially
in the thinly populated wild islands in Oceania, to the
kind and generous assistance of the Governors, (Regents,
Residents, the (Roman Catholic Cur as and the Com=
mandants of the Guardia Civil, I herewith express my
heartfelt thanks to each and all of them.

THE AUTHOR.

T was in Autumn of 1870 when I left dear, old

Berlin, to realize the dream of my youth : to
visit the "mythic cradle of the human race," the
distant India.

Armed with everything necessary for such a
trip, a good constitution and a certain degree of self-
denial, as well as with my Doctor of Philosophy in
my pocket, I looked cheeringly into the future.

Munich, the Brenner, Verona and Bologna were
passed and Brindisi reached, when passage was
taken for Corfu on board a steamer. As I had stayed
before in Corfu, I hastened my departure from the
latter place to Alexandria and by rail through the
Delta to Cairo. I did not remain there any length
of time and after visiting Doctor Schweinfurth,
whose acquaintance I had made on former travels
and at whose residence I was introduced to some
members of the Nordenskjoeld Expedition, I sailed
for Suez. My stay in Egypt, as mentioned before,
was a very short one on this occasion and for this
reason and former descriptions of the country, pub
lished by me, I omit to say anything about it.

I boarded the steamer " Jemna" of the French
Messagerie national line bound for India and after
passing Pondichery and Madras I reached Calcutta
through the Hoogly, an arm of the Ganges.

— 8 —

Calcutta, the capital of British-India, with
870,000 inhabitants, has but few remarkable curiosi
ties. The houses of the Europeans and of the
wealthy Natives, the Baboos, are spacious and ele
gantly furnished. Poonkhas, or ventilators, suspend
from the ceilings and the numerous windows of the
pretty high houses have awnings. Most everybody
here has his own servant. The mode and way of
living here is very luxurious. The botanical garden,
situated on the other side of the river Hoogly, con
tains a great many of ornamental flowers, among
which the beautiful specimens of the Burmese Am-
herstia nobilis and Bougainvillia spectabilis are the
most prominent. Doctor King, the director of the
botanical garden, to whom I am under great obliga
tions, enabled me to send a large collection of plants,
flowers, seeds etc. to the botanical garden of Berlin.

A peculiar spectacle surprises the stranger in
Calcutta, half an hour before and half an hour after
sunset, on the so-called Esplanade, a tract of land,
four miles in length and one mile in width, situated
on the banks of the Hoogly, when the Parsee, the
Hindoo, the Mahometan and the European with
their original vehicles, their richly liveried coachmen
and servants make their appearances, thus outrival
ing the Roman or Parisian Corsos.

An excursion from Calcutta on the North Bengal
Eailroad, over the Ganges, to Darjeeling, thirty miles
in the interior of the Himalayas brought me to the
highest Tea-plantation in the world, 7,000 feet above

q _

.

the level of the sea. From the top of a mountain in
that region, the highest mountain of the Globe
"Mount Everest" is visible. On my return to Cal
cutta, over a different road, I passed a Cinchona
plantation, 5,000 feet high, and started for the West,
by way of Patna, to Benares.

Benares, the Athens of India and the sacred city
of the Hindoos, is famous for the great mosque
" Aurung zebe," so called after the emperor, who had
this symbol of Islamitic faith erected on the ruins of
the Hindoo temples.

The astronomic observatory in Benares was
built in 1600 by Manasimha. Among the many
temples of the Hindoo, those in which the "Ape"
receives godly homage are the most numerous.
Hundreds of these little " Deities " are found in the
groves and orchards and are fed by their "Wor
shippers " with all kind of delicacies.

Benares has about 50,000 Idols, exhibited for
public worshipping in niches, cases etc. The temples
where the bulls are adored, swarm with filth, especi
ally the niches in which other lifeless Gods are
enshrined. Their faces and bodies are literally
dripping from oily substances, — remnants of offer
ings — , thus creating an intolerable odor. From the
ceilings, diminutive bells dangle down and are fre
quently rung, to remind the negligent "Deities"' of
their obligations.

There are many antiquities in Benares.

- 10 —

The Ghauts, a prolongation of the stony steps,
descending from the rocks, form a platform and are
constantly thronged with people, flocking down to
the river to purify themselves with its holy water or
to perform some other work. On the extreme end
are beautiful Stone-Kiosks, also harbors of some
abominable "Deities."

On the 4th of June 1857 a great many Europeans
were murdered in this city by the rebellious natives.

From Benares I traveled to Lucknow— the old
capital of the former kingdom Oudh — with famous
forests in the neighborhood.

Several edifices, built by a Frenchman, create
sensation by their peculiar style.

In the environs of Lucknow is Cawnpore, where,
on the very day on which the Mogul Empire was
proclaimed, viz.: the 12th of February 1857, the
horrible massacre of Europeans by Nana-Sahib and
his Sepoys was perpetrated. A second slaughter,
not less brutal than the first, took place on the 16th
of July of the same year. On the following day the
distressed received succour from General Havelock.
After a brief stay in Cawnpore, I started for Saha-
rampore, from where another collection of seeds,
etc., was dispatched to Europe. Here also, the
Director of the botanical garden — the latter pro
perly a place for the cultivation of domestic plants-
Doctor Dutton, favored me with his kindness. The
Siwalik hills, where tertiary fossiles are excavated,
were duly explored by me.

Between these geologically famous liills and the
real Highmountains in Dehra-Dhoon, the culture of
silk-worms is carried on and tea-plantations fordid.

From the Sanitarium Massory, where I received
the membership of the Himalaya Club, the Snow-
mountains present a magnificent view. Landowr,
also a sanitarium for soldiers, enjoys the neighbor
hood of Ale-breweries. The way leads now to Agra,
one of the former residences of the Mogul Emperors,
about hundred miles distant from Delhi. In Agra is
the most splendid mausoleum in the world, the
celebrated "Taj-Mahal." It is impossible to give a
true description of the Taj-Mahal with its har
monious proportions, its Mosaic work, the immacul
ate snow-white marble etc. According to accounts
in Agra, Taj- Mahal was founded in 1631 under the
reign of the Mogul Emperor Shah-Jehan and devoted
to the memory of his spouse Moontaj-i-Mahal. Ta-
vernier relates that 20,000 people had worked for
twenty successive years on the completion of this
wonderful mausoleum.

The Moti-Musjed or Pearl-mosque deserves to
be mentioned as also the Jumna-mosque. The latter,
though not so nice as the Pearl-mosque, towers
above all other Mosques in Agra, its site being the
loftiest.

The sepulchral monuments of Elmadaod-Doulah
and Akbar are magnificent relics of oriental archi
tecture.

In the vicinity of Agra is the native state Sindhee

— 12 —

with an English cantonment. Splendid temples and
ruins of such, of an extinct Hindoo religion, the so-
called Jaynes, are abundant. The soil contains plenty
of iron-ore.

Among all the attractions in India, the architec
tonic monuments of the past, cause the travellers
admiration and astonishment, but above all, the
relics of the glory and power of the Mogul Emperors.
It was in Delhi — of historic fame— where I had
occasion to admire the well preserved remains of
architectonic monuments of the great Mogul Em
perors.

On the llth of May, 1857, during an insurrection
of the Natives, a terrible massacre of Europeans
took place in Delhi. The English attacked the in
surgents on the 14th of September 1857, and the city
was taken by the former on the 20th of the same
month. The day following, the last of the Mogul
Sovereigns, Surazoo-deen, was captured and several
of his grandchildren and princes executed.

Of all the curiosities in Delhi, the Dewani-
Khass or Presence chamber (Audience hall) excites
the greatest attention of the visitor. This edifice
too, like the incomparable Taj-Mahal, owes its origin
to the above mentioned emperor Shah-Jehan.

The imperial palace, turned into ruins by the
English, was considered the finest residence of any
"Despot" in the East.

The Dewani-Khass is an arched pavilion, rests on
low, solid pillars and measures 150 feet in length, and

— 13 —

50 feet in width. The material is of the finest white
marble. The sculpture, engraving and ornamenting
of the pillars and walls is almost inimitable. Flowers,
blossoms, leaves, fruits and Arabesques in Mosaic,
composed of precious gems, appear to the visitor as
if alive or painted on canvas. In the Arabic-written
characters, on different places of the hall, resembling
Arabesques, citations from the Koran are found,
among others, the lines, glorified by Moore in " Lalla
Bookh":

"If in reality, there is an Elysium on earth,
It is this, it is this."

Below the central arch of the pavilion is a low
marble tribune, on which stood the famous Peacock
throne. Bernier, who has seen the throne, gives the
following description of it: "The throne consisted
of two massive golden peacocks, whose plumages were
composed of the most precious stones. The seat
was inlaid with diamonds and supported by six solid
golden legs, also sumptiously covered with diamonds
and rubies. Six wide, massive silver steps, likewise
containing different jewels, led to the throne, the
cost of which, according to the above named traveller,
was from 20 to 30 Millions of Pounds Sterling."

The throne was stolen by the Persian conqueror
Nadir-Shah, and the precious diamond "Koh-i-noor,"
worn by the Mogul Emperor, wandered to England,
where it now ranks highest among the crown jewels
of Queen Yictoria.

Of great attraction also is the Private Imperial

— 14 —

Mosque within the fortified palace, built of white
marble. The Jumna Mosque, situated in a different
part of the city, is one of the finest of its kind and
from the Minarets the celebrated lonely "Kutub
Minar " column, undoubtedly the loftiest structure in
the world, is visible. The environs of Delhi, to the
extent of 15 miles along the banks of the Jumna, are
literally covered with fragments of tombstones, walls,
mosques, palaces and astronomical observatories.
These are remains of the Delhi/4 of the past, for
the first Delhi^ was already built 2,000 years ago.

Here, as in some other parts of India, the boil-
disease (covering the whole body with protuberances)
appears during the hot season and gets many victims.

From here I started for Simla, by way of Um-
balla, a very tedious and troublesome voyage. One
is dragged with difficulty in the clumsy vehicle, the
so-called "Garre," over the plains and through un-
bridged rivers. The construction of these Garres is
such, that they have to serve as sleeping compart
ments, since travelling in the night time becomes here
a necessity, shelters nowhere to be found. Naturally
enough, there is but little comfort in them.

Here it was, where the three brothers, Herman,
Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit met in the month of
May 1856, to complete their equipment for the in
tended journey to Cashmere. They arrived in Bom
bay towards the end of 1854, and first crossed the
"Deccan" to Madras over different roads. They
separated in Madras in the following spring. Adolf

— 15 —

and Eobert travelled to tlie remote Northwest of
India and spent their time with examinations of the
passes, glaciers, mountains, etc. They advanced a&
far as Ladak and attempted to climb to the summit
of the Ibi-Gamin, one of the steepest peaks. Though
the attempt was fruitless, they nevertheless reached
the extraordinary height of 22,000 feet, a height
which, up to that period of time had not been reached
by any mortal man.

During that time Herman made extensive travels
in Sikkim and Assam, and through the whole region
between Brahmapootra and Burmah, in the tropic
low-lands as well as in the unexplored mountainous
district.

After the already related meeting of the brothers
in Simla, they visited Iscardo, made repeated excur
sions in the wild region between the Upper-Indus
and the table-land of Pamir, and afterwards explored
the southeasterly continuation of the great Karako-
ram chain of mountains in Little-Tibet, thereby
fixing the altitude of the Dapsang to 28,278 feet.

They were the first Europeans who, after passing
the Karakoram over a pass, 19,000 feet above the
level of the sea, had seen and crossed the Kiin-liin.
Unexpected circumstances forced the brothers to
return to India, and Herman and Kobert embarked
for Europe in the Spring of 1857, whilst Adolf was
determined to profit from their mutual discoveries,
and to explore Central Asia as far as to the Eussian
possessions north of Thian-Shan. Kuniors of the

— 16 —

progress of the Tartaric rebellion against the Chinese
supremacy, had by this time reached Little Tibet,
and the task at which Adolf aimed seemed practicable
to him. Alter crossing the Kim-lun he marched to
wards Yarkand, but was sent back and proceeded to
Kashgar, presenting himself to Walle-Khan, the leader
of the Insurgents, who at that time was besieging the
Chinese forts. All that the world got to know about
the fate of this indefatigable traveller, was, that he
was murdered by the order of Walle-Khan.

The great Sanitarium in this place is about 8000
feet above the sea.

The Viceroy of India, as well as the Commander-
in-chief, and the Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab
reside here during a period of eight months in every
year. The seat of the government (wandering with
the Viceroy) is also here during the summer.

My stay in Simla was a pretty long one, enjoying
the acquaintance of the Earl of Lytton, and of his
successor, the Marquis of Ripon. I made frequent ex
cursions to Tibet as far as to the Chinese borders, but
was not permitted to step over the boundaries. On
that journey, at the Mission Station Kothgur, I met
a missionary from Berlin, a Mr. Rebsch. Before this
last place is reached, ^"arkanda has to be passed,
where a splendid view of the snowmountains pre
sents itself.

Doctor Lucius, the present Minister of Agri
culture in Berlin, was here some time before my
arrival.

— 17

The road leads now right through the snow-
mountains with their gorgeous valleys and luxuriant
pine- and cedar-forests up to the lofty boundaries of
vegetation. In the former grows the eatable pine.
The alpine vegetation is not so abundant as in the
Swiss alps, but the cultivation of the vine is very
productive on account of the scarcety of rain.

Back of Kothgur, the Sutlej, an important river
with canyonlike banks and peculiar windings, dis
charging into the Indus, was reached.. We started
now from Murree over the mountains for Cashmere.

The voyage lasted full fourteen days. In day
time travelling was seldom interrupted and the nights
were passed under shelter.

The river Jhelum, in the neighborhood of the
capital, Shrenaga, describes the most peculiar wind
ings imaginable, which latter are imitated in the
patterns of the Cashmere Shawls.

Our way up hill, in tents, brought us to Sona-
mag, which is very high situated. After we had left
the last named place, a Christian church was con
sumed by fire and we were charged with the deed,
though Mahometans had caused it.

The established church in Cashmere is "Ma-
hometanism," that of the court "Hindoo."

The principal passage to Central Asia and
Turkestan leads over Sonamag. This same course
was taken by Schlagintweit and the English Embassy.

There is a large stock of game on the table-land
of Cashmere, and hunting is very frequent. The in-

— 18 —

terior of Cashmere is only during the summer in
habited, at which time the Maharajah and his court
reside here. During the winter the court resides in
Sommoo.

On my return to India over the old disused high
way, laid out by the Mogul Emperors, I found now
and then ruins of seraglios and caravanseries, which
afforded night-shelters. This road is in a very bad
condition and therefore not so much in use as the
Murree road.

The manufacturing of shawls, in former times,
carried on on a large scale, is now, since they are out
of fashion, almost extinct, and only Shrenaga pro
duces some. Oxen are the beasts of burden in Cash
mere, ancj horses and donkeys are used for riding.
The killing of cattle and fishes is strictly prohi
bited, because they are worshipped.

A short distance from Shrenaga, some large
lakes, palaces in ruins, formerly summer seats of the
Mogul sovereigns, and gardens with beautiful cas
cades, are to be found. The vegetation here, with
Italian and other poplar trees, bordering the lakes
and adorning the streets, is almost northerly and
puts one in mind of home, especially when arrived
from India.

Cotton and Indian corn, the former with yellow
blossoms and sesam, from which the sesam oil is ob
tained, are raised to a considerable extent. During
my sojourn there, a Belgian pressman was summoned
to Cashmere to introduce the cultivation of fruits,

— 19 —

vine and other plants, and for the construction of
press-houses. Some species imported from France
and Germany throve — as I was informed afterwards
— very well.

To reach Cashmere, it was necessary to obtain
special permission from the Government of the Pun
jab in Lahore. The reason for this precaution was
the insufficiency of provisions after the rage of a
famine in that region. We found many skeletons of
cattle, killed by starvation, on the road from Murree
to Cashmere.

This journey was performed in the middle of
summer, the so-called rainy season, which differs
from the rainy season of the southern or eastern
part of the Himalaya. The rain in these regions,
with but short interruptions, lasts throughout the
season. Special permission for the use of the roads
from and to Cashmere is also required, as there are
only a few designated by the Government. For
eigners are submitted to a strict control on the part
of the English resident.

My sojourn extended to three months, and I
made frequently excursions to the Valley of Cash
mere, where I had splendid views of the snow moun
tains and to the Jhelum river.

The want of tents, or other shelters, necessitates
many families to live on boats; and the river is
crowded with them. Hunters, coming from India,
either for pleasure or for the recuperation of an
undermined health, are often met with. Hotels are

— 20 —

entirely unknown here and one has to content him
self with the tent or house he is put into by the
Maharajah.

The morals and customs of the Mahometans are
looser than those of the Arabians, the women for
instance do not veil themselves so close. The public
worship and instruction of the Hindoo, on the con
trary, inasmuch as a stranger has a chance to cast a
look into, is strictly regulated and profoundly moral.

Returning over the same road, I proceeded to
the Punjab with its capital Lahore, which, though
worth seeing, can not be compared with either Agra
or Delhi.

During my brief stay in Lahore I had the honor
to form the acquaintance of Professor Doctor Leitner,
the celebrated Orientalist, to whom science is greatly
indebted for the interpretation and explanation of
several old Indian idioms. On his first voyage from
India to Cashmere, Professor Leitner had to endure
a series of hardships and privations, whilst I enjoyed
the advantages of the present improved conditions.
It was Professor Leitner, if I remember well, who
proposed the establishing of a High-Shod in La
hore, now in an excellent state of progress.

On reaching the Punjab, we enter the sphere of
a nation which occupies a great part of northwestern
India, and who are neither Mahometans nor Hindoo,
though inclining to the former, the " Sikhs," a beauti
ful race of men. From their midst soldiers and
policemen are selected. They possess magnificent

— 21 —

temples. In the vicinity of Umritsar, with a luxuri
antly outfitted temple, especially in Loodhiana, the
manufacturing of imitations of genuine Cashmere
shawls is one of the important features.

The Punjab in the neighborhood of Lahore, is
rich in rivers, and in Summer, shows one of the
highest temperatures in the world. In the other
parts of India where there is frequent rain -bufuit
summer comes, the temperature is milder, but in the
Punjab and the westerly, desert-like region on which
the former is bordering, and where there is but little
rain, the temperature rises from 120 to 130 degrees.

This country is frequently visited by whirling
clouds of dust. At the approach of them, the in
habitants retire to their huts, which are covered with
Koosh-koosh grass, thus reducing the temperature
within, but when the wind abates and the heat be
comes unbearable, the Thermantidod has to be put
up. Many other arrangements such as Poonkhas or
fans and ventilators pulled by Kulies, etc., are in use.

Every four or five years the Viceroy of India
arranges the famous "Durbar," a festival of enormous
brilliancy, and to which the Maharajahs of the cor
responding districts are invited. On that occasion
they display an extraordinary splendor. The suite
of attendants with their richly ornamented liveries,
the elephants and camels with covers trimmed with
jewelry and thousand other attractions captivate the
senses. The Maharajah of Cashmere who was
present, displayed a fabulous pomp and I must

— 22 —

confess that I rarely ever had such a delight of tlie
eyes. From Lahore I traveled by way of Umballa,
Saharampore with but a short stay in Delhi, to Agra
from where I turned aside to the confederate Kaj-
pootana state. The English Kesident (native govern
ment) whose hospitality I enjoyed, had the kindness
to place an elephant and domestics at my disposal
for the trip to Ambher, the former capital.

The gardens and palaces of this place are worth
seeing. Tigers used to invade the city because the
Hindoo never shoots them unless he is in immediate
danger. They are now decimated by Europeans and
others who frequently arrange hunting parties.

In this part of India I received a communication
from Doctor Schweinfurth, at that time in Egypt, to
send him plants, seeds, etc., for transplantation in
Africa where they thrive well, especially the Bamboo,
Doctor Dutton and others in Saharampore acom-
modated me kindly with the required plants, etc.,
thus enabling me to accomplish the wish of my
worthy friend, whose intention it was, to experiment
with them on the farm of Professor Doctor Soyaux
on the Gaboon.

West of Jaypore is a salt lake and a very pro
ductive salt mine. The palaces in Jaypore are note
worthy as are also the dyeries in which homespun
materials, mostly cotton-goods, are dyed.

On the road to Ajmer numberless monkeys
(Baboons) rove about and are very bold because they
are worshipped by the natives.

— 23 — ^

Not far from here are temples of Brahma, whilst
only such of Shiva and other By-Gods are found in
other parts. The Hindoo faith was originally " Mo
notheism " and is still considered as such by the
better class of its followers. Brahma was an in
visible and allmighty God, the creator of heaven and
earth and like the deity of the Buddhists too great
to be conceived by mortals. The three descendants
of Brahma are more personifications of his attributes
than separate personalities. These three, the " Tri-
murti" or the Hindoo-Trinity are : Brahma, the
creator, Vishnu, the preserver, and Shiva, the de
stroyer. Among the emblems of the latter is a child,
thus signifying that "life" is constantly deriving
from the "dead."

Out of the three, a multitude of inferior Gods
sprung up and with their descendants number thirty
millions of which only three millions are bad. From
this proportion the kindness of the ruling deity is
perceptible. The original faith is much degenerated
at present and dark superstition substituted.

In the lakes of Eajpootana both sexes of the
natives enjoy frequent bathing.

Travelling in the western part of the states is
very troublesome and can only be performed on
camels-back. A habitation here, forms — so to say—
an oasis, the distance from each other being so great.

Ajmer is pretty mountainous and there is great
abundance of wild fruits.

On my return I had again to put up at Agra,

24 —

from where I visited the fortified place of Allahabad,
the seat of the British government. In this place I
enjoyed the most generous hospitality of the English
representative,Lieutenant-Grovernor Sir Henry Cooper.

The drainage in Allahabad is one of the grandest
in India and I was greatly disappointed that I could
not inspect the same on account of the cholera raging
there at that time.

Cholera in the eastern parts of India, appears
during the hot season ; the absence of the extremely
moist atmosphere at that time favors the disease.
In the west it appears in the course of the rainy
season, because both, the soil and air contain too
little moisture to promote bacillar or parasitical
activity. The climate of India, in general, is un
healthy for Europeans. The rainy season is fol
lowed by the cold and lasts during the months of Oc
tober, November, December, January and February.
The degrees of cold are not high ; the normal tem
perature in the coldest month of the year, the month
of January, is in Calcutta 67 ?, in Madras 77°, and in
Bombay 78°. The hot season begins towards the
end of February and lasts till rain commences in the
month of June. The different seasons in India de
viate greatly — India extending over a latitude of over
2000 miles. On the west coast for instance, the rain
fall is stronger, in the north is the cold severer, and
in the south heat reigns almost throughout the
year.

After a brief stay in Allahabad, I boarded a train

— 25 —

of the Great Peninsular Eailroad for Central India
and proceeded next to Jabalpore, in whose vicinity
are diamond mines, belonging to a Eajah, and to
which access is gained under great difficulties.

Jabalpore is situated on the famous Nurbuddha
river, on whose banks grows the sacred tree of the
Buddhists, the Pippal tree, Ficus religiosa. The
adoration of this tree bases upon the ground that,
under it, life was imparted to Yislmu and that Buddha
has rested under its shade. Many other beautiful
trees adorn the banks of the river, as for example the
Banyan-Pagode, or Indian Fig tree, Ficus indica.
Geologically, this territory is marvellously beautious
with its formation of marble. The tropic vegetation
develops the greatest luxuriancy, and the cultivation
of cotton is carried on on a very large scale up to the
coast (especially in Guzerattee) and almost as far as
Bombay. There are a great many tigers around here.

After a two days' travel through beautiful forests
of cocoanut trees, with extraordinary specimens of
the cocos nucifera, I reached the "Flora" cave.
In the interior of the cave, situated in the high-land
of Deccan, are Buddhistic and Hindoo temples.

From Elora back, along the coast, over islands,
the train of the Great Peninsular Kailroad carried
me to Salsette. The climate on the coast is very un
healthy and all kinds of fevers, especially Malaria,
rage all the year.

Between the continent and Bombay, on a forma
tion of basalt, is the Island of "Elephanta," which

— 26 -

place — as I had already reached Bombay — I visited
later.

The city of Bombay is divided in two parts ; in the
fort, situated within the old Portuguese f ortifications,
about one mile in length, ending on the beach of
the bay, surrounded by moats, the stagnated water
of which produces fever ; and in the new city quarter,
north of the Esplanade. Bombay is a very rich city,
the wealth mostly to be found among the Parsees.

It might not be superfluous to say a few words
about the followers of "Zoroaster," whose doctrine —
as is known — teaches the existence of a God and an
evil principle, both together ruling the Universe.
They settled on the Malabar coast about 800 years
ago, when expelled from Persia. The sun, as the
representative of God, fire and the sea are worshipped
by them. Immediately after sunrise they perform
their prayers. In their temples, Idols are not to be
found, but the sacred fire is kept burning all the
time. They neither burn nor bury their dead, but
expose them to the air on the top of a hill, where
they decompose or are devoured by beasts of prey.
They marry their children at the tender age of 4 or
5 years, bring them up together and unite them when
of maturity.

Bombay possesses many Parsee temples. The
"Tower of Silence" is inaccessible to other believers,
the sight of which dare only be seen from a distance,
iDut models of it are everywhere procured. The
Meteorological Observatory is under the direction of

— 27 —

Doctor Chambers. The museum in the Yictoria
Garden and the hospital for sick animals deserve to
be mentioned. Public conveyances consist of cabs,
buggies and palanquins, carried by four carriers.
Most everybody here has his own servant. Bombay
is the second important commercial city in India
after Calcutta.

A short distance from Bombay, in the suburb
Mazagaun, are many serpents in the adjoining
djungles. Here resides the Jewish Sassoon family,
eminently rich. The accumulation of their wealth
derives from trading in opium with China.

The residence of the governor, — who* was kind
enough to furnish me with recommendations to the
government of Hyderabad— is near By cola. Of all
the Indian cities Bombay resembles most a European
town. Objects manufactured of sandal, rose and
other fragrant wood are offered for sale on every
way and passage, in the city.

The route from Bombay to the island of Ele-
phanta, seven miles in distance, is performed on a
small boat, Mazagaun has to be passed. The bay is
admirably beautiful. The small islands with their
magnificent vegetation and charming hills on one
side and the peaks of the Malabar Ghauts on the
other side afford an unusual sight. Malabarhill, the
favored place of the Europeans with their pretty
bungalows, makes an excellent impression upon the
traveller on passing it.

Elephanta is one mile in length and has a

— 28 —

luxuriant growth of palm trees and tamarinds. The
form and situation of Elephanta are of a charming
beauty; the highest point is divided in two peaks,
one higher than the other. A short ascent leads the
traveller to the front of the temple between the two
peaks where a splendid view of Bombay and Salsette
presents itself. The beauty of the vegetation in the
foreground is beyond description. The interior of
the temple, entered upon very .suddenly — doors not
existing — shows a spacious chamber on each side of
it. The roof is supported by pillars hewn out of the
rock, beautifully sculptured. A single glance of the
visitor meets with the triple bust of the "Trimurti,"
the Hindoo trinity, cut in stone and measuring twelve
feet in height.

Returning to the city, I visited the botanical
garden with its palm trees and the abundance of
tropical and other bright-colored flowers, etc., amongst
which the Persian roses are of an unusual brilliancy.

An excursion to the Ghauts, with their pictu
resque outlines, and the sanitarium in the midst of
extremely beautiful basalt formations, with extensive
sandal wood forests at the basis, is worth while
undertaking.

Farther on in the mountains is Mahableshwar,
where — at times — the rainfall reaches the abnormal
height of 250 inches. Arrived in Karli, by way of
Khandalla, the caves with Buddhistic temples in the
interior were examined.

East of Khandalla is the unsurpassable breach

— 29 —

of the above mentioned Ghauts, the train passes
right through to Poonah.

In Poonah resides a German Savant, a celebrated
interpreter of the Sanscrit, whose name — I am sorry
to say — I have forgotten. On my return to Bombay,
I started for the south on board an English steamer,
and leaving Goa, the Portuguese colony sideways,
I landed at Baypore-Calicut, 12 to 13 degrees north
of the Equator, consequently a very hot place with
an extremely moist and tropical climate.

All Indian palm trees are here represented.

The inhabitants, because not intermixed with
negro blood, present a brighter and purer complexion
and one is inclined to call them pretty.

A day's journey from Baypore-Calicut, and not
distant from Cochin, exists a peculiar race of white
and colored Jews.

The next voyage was to the East per Madras
railroad, and to the foot of the Neilgherre chain of
mountains, with the highest point 8,500 feet above
the sea. The climate is very mild and coffee and
tea grow abundantly. The cinchona plantation in
Neddiwattam belongs to the government. The sani
tarium Oatakamund has a charming site.

In company of the director of the botanical
garden I rode to "Dodabetta," the highest point of
the Neilgherre, with an imposing view toward the
surrounding country and the southerly chain of
mountains. In the hotels of this mountainous coun
try, the departments of the sexes are strictly seperate.

— 30 —

The governor of Madras, and the aristocracy re
side here during the summer. Though it was winter
when I was there, the weather was nevertheless very
mild. To the north is the native state of Mysore
with important coffee plantations and gold mines.

From Bangalor, in the distant east of this State
with an English cantonment, I proceeded to Madras
on the south-eastern coast by rail, and arrived there
in the month of January. The heat was almost un
bearable and sleep could only be procured under
the Poonkha or fan, and even then I was terribly
tortured by mosquitos and sand-flies. The rainy
season lasts from the end of October to the begin
ning of January. I was furnished with a very warm
recommendation by the late Mr. Bruhns, director of
the astronomical observatory in Leipzig, Germ any,
to Professor Pogson, on whose Astronomic-Meteoro
logical Observatory the scientific observations are
published by the Professor's daughter. A famous
Israelitish Philologist, Mr. Oppert, is Professor on
the Madras College.

The garden of acclimatization interests on ac
count of the various plants, and the government
forts are worth an inspection. Towards the end of
January, I embarked for Point de Galle on a steamer
of the British India Steamship Company.

This place was formerly an important seaport
until Colombo has gained the advantage over it.

On a trip to a lake in the vicinity of Point de
Galle I saw the Totapella, a mountain second in

— 31 —

height of all the mountains in Ceylon and after a
short stay in Point de Galle, I travelled to Colombo
the capital of Ceylon. Properly, the Djungle region
begins here and ends where the country rises terrace-
like, thus developing the tropic vegetation (especially
on the west coast) to the utmost. Coffee, transplan
ted from Africa, blossoming and fruit-bearing at one
and the same time, is but little aromatic. There is
not much activity in the capital of Ceylon. Cinna
mon grows almost everywhere and in the Cinnamon
garden — a place of a Djunglelike description — extra
ordinary specimens of cinnamon bushes can be seen.
The cloudless sky with a burning hot sun and the
blinding white sand contribute greatly to render the
stay in Colombo disagreeable. The natives or Sin-
galeses in their provoking white garments do not
increase the attraction of the place.

After a short voyage from Colombo, Kandi is
reached, a famous place of pilgrimage with clean,
tidy houses and some commerce, part of which is in
the hands of a few German firms.

In a temple, in this place, the sacred tooth of
Buddha is preserved, thus forming the attractive
power of the pilgrims. To the German residents
in Colombo I am greatly obliged for the many
favors shown to me. In Paradenya, a suburb
of Kandi, I was introduced to Doctor Tryman,
the director of the botanical garden and author of a-
work about the cultivation of trees from which
Caouchouc is obtained. The botanical garden con-

— 32 —

tains exceedingly fine specimens of the Giant-Bamboo
and Talipat palm-tree of an abnormal height, also
Caouchouc supplying fig-trees, Ficus Indica and
Eicus Tocicaria.

The richly ornamented leaves of the Talipatpalm,
Oorypha umbraculifera, growing to a height of over
a hundred feet, are spread — like a parasol — over the
heads of distinguished Singaleses by their servants.

Above Kandi are many cinchona and coffee
plantations belonging to private people. The coffee
crop did not yield, when I was there, on account of
the appearance of the devastating Hemileia vestatrix.

To the sanitarium " Nuwarra-Ellia," a distance
of 47 miles through the Hambodde pass, about 13
miles in extention, an altitute of 6,000 feet has to be
climbed, and after a descent of about two hours, the
road, leading to the sanitarium, is reached. Sur
rounded by mountains* Nuwarra-Ellia extends" very
romantically, valley-like, to a length of two and a
width of one mile.

In the neighborhood of Nuwarra-Ellia resided
Sir Samuel Baker, the celebrated traveller and ex
plorer of the Nile, whose acquaintance I had made
the year before at a reception, given by the Yiceroy
of India, in Simla. Sir Baker was a great sportsman,
and often had occasion to use his couteau-de-chasse
in encounters with beasts of prey infesting this
region. Leopards, wild Elephants and Woodstags,
etc., etc., are in abundance in these woody mountains.

After scaling the summit of the highest moun-

— 33 —

tain in Ceylon, the "Petrotallagalla," 8,300 feet, I re
turned to the plains.

The other high mountains in Ceylon are: the
« Totapella," 8,000, the " Kirigallapotta," 7,900, and
the "Adams Peak," 7,700 feet high.

In the plains of Nuwarra-Ellia as well as in the
plains of Moon stone, Kondopalle, Elk, Totapella,
Horton, Bopatalava and Augura, (all these together
comprising a district of about 30 miles) remains of
mines for the produce of precious stones are found.
There can be no doubt, that the produce of jewels in
former times has been a very lucrative one, for even
now, small rubies, sapphires, emeralds, turmalines
and chrysoberyls are found in the so-called Ruby-
valley, below the surface in a stratum of gravel.

The animal kingdom in Ceylon — as already
mentioned — is well represented, from the small house
lizard to the iguanon, about four feet long, and the
elephant. A peculiar species of lizards, nowhere else
to be found, habitates Ceylon. Small in size and
thorn-backed, with a long horn protruding from the
upper portion of the mouth, it resembles the antedi
luvian monstre, the " Iguanodon."

After my return to Colombo I made frequent
excursions, either on horseback or in some vehicle,
to Point-de-Galle through the splendid cocoa tree
forests.

I was now on the point of visiting another part
of "the globe, "Australia," and must confess, the very

thought of leaving India, especially Ceylon, the " Pa-

3

— 34 —

radise of the East," fell heavy upon me. To get an
idea of the vastness of this wonderful country, one
must consider, that 23 distinct languages are spoken
in India, the written characters of all these languages
differing from each other as much as Roman does
from German. The languages spoken are : 1) The
Urdu, (the proper Hindostan language) the "French"
of India, the language of the Mahometans and of the
trading people, mostly spoken in Rohilcund, Doab
and Oudh. 2) The Hindoo, in Kajpootana, Oudh,
Rohilcund, Malva, Bundlecund and by the agricul
tural Hindoos. 3) The Bengal, in Bengal and the
East. 4) Pushtoo, in Peshawar and in the far West.
5) Sindhee, in Sinde and the Cis-Sutlej states. 6) Pun
jab, in the great Indus Valley. 7) Nepaulish, in
Nepaul. 8) Cashmerish, in Cashmere. 9) Guzerat-
tee, by the Parsees and in Guzeratte. 10) Assamish,
in Assam. 11) Burmese, in Burmah and Pegu.
12) Cutchee, in Cutch, 13) Bhootish, in Bootan.
14) The Kaeren, in Burmah and Pegu. 15) Sing
halese, in Ceylon. 16) The Malay, in Travencore
and Cochin. 17) The Tamul, from Madras to Cape
Comorin. 18) Canarese, in Coorg and Mysore.
19) Teloogoish, in Hyderabad and along the eastern
coast. 20) The Cole and Gond, in Berar. 21) Khas-
siyaish, in the northeast. 22) Ooryaish, in Orissa.
23) Mahrattan, in Bombay, Nagpore and Gwalior.

In addition to these 23 languages, the better
classes converse in the English, Pali, Sanscrit, Per
sian and Arabian languages and what is said about

— 35 —

differences of opinions : " Quot homines, tot senten-
tiae" can be said about the languages in India

The Hindoos, undoubtedly the proudest nation
on earth, consider their country to be the primitive
source of all that is good and nice and from where
the rest of the world receives the blessings. The
Indian Empire is divided into British territory and
fendatory States, acknowledging sovereignity of Great
Britain. British-India is the richest and most pop
ulous dependency of the English crown. Area,
1,383,504 square miles. Population, 253,906,449.

The Government is entrusted to the Secretary
of State for India. He is aided by a council of 15
members. The executive authority is vested in the
Governor-General, appointed by the British crown
and a council of 7 members. The salary of the
Governor-General amounts to 25,000 pounds sterling
per year.

The population is dense. The density varies
from 441 per square mile to 43, average for all India
being 184. Agriculture is backward. The means of
transportation poor, but improving. Eight famines
have visited India and decimated the population of
various provinces.

The soil is productive, rice, corn, millet, barley
and wheat are growing ; cotton, indigo, opium and
sugar-cane are largely exported. Education is im
proving. The European and Native army numbers
190,476 men. The Native States have an army of
349,835 men.

— 36 —

The island Ceylon, situated in the Indian Ocean,
south-east of India, has an area of 25,364 square miles,
is 260 miles in length and has an average breadth of
100 miles. The climate is much more pleasant
than that of southern India. The government is ad
ministered by a Governor with an Executive Council
and a Legislative Council. Minerals abound and
precious stones are often found. The pearl-fisheries
of the western coast are famous. Bread fruit, cinna
mon, pepper, rice, cotton and tobacco are among the
chief products of the soil ; and coffee, tea, cinchona
bark, cocoanut-oil among the export. The population
is estimated at 2,700,000. There are only about
4,000 Europeans in Ceylon. I remained in Point de
Galle, waiting for a steamer of the Oriental and
Peninsular Line, and procuring passage for Austra
lia, I bade "India" good-bye.—

The sea voyage from Point de Galle to South
Australia — passing Cape Lewis — lasted sixteen days,
the first landing-place being Albany, situated on the
south coast. The voyage was a very quiet one till we
reached Albany, then we had violent storms for the
rest of the voyage. Here resides a brother of the well-
known explorer of South America, Mr. Schomburgk.

Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, with
38,000 inhabitants, of which a great many are Ger
mans, is quite a lively place.

After a brief stay in Adelaide, I proceeded to
Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, with 290,000 in-

37

" :

habitants. It is difficult to reach the port of the city
on account of the heads, — so-called capes— dividing
the outer from the inner harbor. Melbourne indul
ges in the protection of the Tariff in opposition to
the colonies who are free traders.

My sojourn in Melbourne during the Interna
tional Exposition and extending to four months,
was a very pleasant one. I formed many valuable
acquaintances and through the kindness of my wor
thy and learned friend, the famous botanist and
author of works, on the " Flora" of Australia, Baron
von Miiller, formerly director of the botonical garden,
now Governments' botanist, I was enabled to send a
rich collection of seeds, fruits, cones etc., to the late
Professor Eichler, director of the botanical garden
and museum in Berlin. To Baron von Miiller and
the director of the museum of Physical Sciences and
the director of the botanical garden I am under deep
obligations for the honor conferred upon me, — in
proposing and electing me a Fellow of the universal
ly renowned "Linaeus Society."

The astronomical observatory with colossal
telescopes — director, Mr. Ellery — is a very fine in
stitution. The botanical garden near the river Yara-
Yara, which latter almost touches the city is roman
tically situated and was completely transformed
since Doctor Gilford is the director.

The goldmint is very important. Of the secre*
tary of the Minister in Victoria I received valuable
scientific records and statistics. On one of my

— 38 —

excursions to the interior and to the gold regions,
I visited Balarat with Alluvial mines, almost extin
guished, whilst the Quartzgold mines are in a bloom
ing condition.

Sandhurst, formerly called Bendigo, as well as
the whole gold region do not produce so much now
as in bygone times.

North of Balarat I visited the famous Sheep-
breeding establishment of Sir Samuel Wilson and
went from there on the Northern boundary to the
Murray river and the Riverina district on the other
side. This region is notorious for its fertility and
belongs to New South "Wales with the capital Sidney.
The climate is mild, because northerly.

On another trip to the Australian Alps, north
west of Melbourne, I ascended Mount "Kosciusko,"
the highest point, 7000 feet above the level of the sea.
In Fernshaw, in the Australian Alps, the giant trees
of the Eucalyptus amygdala gigantea reach the extra
ordinary height of over 400 feet.

In the course of the winter I was introduced to
Professor von Haast, the famous geologist who re
sided in Christchurch, New Zealand, and to Sir
Henry Parks, the most important statesman in
Australia, whilst Graham Berry, the defender of the
trade protective policy ( is a deciding authority in all
colonial affairs.

I applied to Sir Henry Parks to effectuate a re
solution of the Parliament to grant the necessary
means for the discovery of the remains of the scien-

— 39 —

tific traveller Leichhardt, arid to my great gratifica
tion I have met with success.

East of Melbourne is the Gipsland, famous for
its mild and moist climate.

I now set out for Sidney on the incompleted
railroad, crossing the river Murray. In Albury —
North South Wales — on the other side of the Murray
river, important cultivation of vine is carried on,
mostly by Germans.

On the road from Albury to Sidney I halted at
Wagga-Wagga, memorable through the Tichborne
trial. The construction of railroads is after the
European system.

The capital Sidney with about 220,000 inhabi
tants is beautifully situated on the Sidney-bay, the
latter making deep indentations, thus producing an
amphitheatrical view of the city.

The botanical garden is not as large as that of
Melbourne, but is much nicer situated and notewor
thy for its Araucaries. There is also a museum and
an observatory here.

I had the pleasure to make the acquaintance of
Lord Loftus, formerly English embassador to Prus
sia and now governor of New South Wales and of
the German Consul General for Australia and the
Fejee-Islands, Doctor Krauel.

An invitation of Mr. Godefroy, residing in the
Fejees', to visit him had to be respectfully declined
on account of an indisposition.

Doctor Bennett, the Ornithologist, who possesses

— 40 —

a considerably large library, was also one of my newly
acquired and valuable connections.

The kindness of Doctor Moore, the above men
tioned director of the botanical garden in Sidney,
who deputed his assistant, Doctor "Weber, a German,
to accompany me to the Illawara district in New
South Wales, will never be forgotten. Here I had a
good opportunity to study the "Flora" of Australia,
especially the Palms. The coal region extends all
along the eastern coast of New South "Wales.

The export of coals from New-Castle, north of
Sidney, (which I visited) to China and Japan is very
large. On the other side of Sidney harbor is a tower,
erected by a philanthropic German, which affords
a lovely prospect of the city and the surroundings.

West of Sidney, in Paramatta, are beautiful
orange groves and cottages. A branch line of the
railroad carried me to the Blue Mountains, a bril
liant, resplendent sandstone-formation. The highest
summits of this mountain chain, not exceeding 3,000
feet, consists of basalt, and with the slope, Bathurst,
a coal and iron mining district is reached.

I returned to Sidney, intending to go to New
Zealand but was prevented from doing so on account
of the. detention at quarantine in Aukland — the
nearest landing-place — where every passenger com
ing from Sidney had to remain a period of time,
Variola at that time raging in Sidney.

A sea voyage of two days brought me to Bris
bane, the capital of Queensland, with 36,000 inhab-

— 41 —

itants, situated on a river having the same name.
Brisbane is the seat of the colonial Parliament.
The botanical garden is of secondary importance*
Doctor Bailey, the director of the museum in Bris
bane, is the author of several scientific works.

The cultivation of the sugar-cane commences in
the environs of Brisbane, 28 to 29° southern latitude
and still far northerly — as in all Australian colonies —
isolated gold fields are to be found.

On the high plain, west of Brisbane, lies the city
Toowooniba, 1500 feet high. Warwick, in the midst
of extensive pastures, has famous cattle and sheep
breedings on the farms.

In Stanthorp — on a granite formation — tin is ob
tained from the rivers and the cultivation of fruits
largely pursued.

I travelled back to Brisbane and found it very
warm there, it was already in August, and sailed along
the east coast and the coral reefs, 1,100 miles in
length, where several stoppages were made. Steer
ing northward now, the course of the coast changes
after a few days westerly, and leads to Thursday
Island with important pearlfisheries, and from where
— the weather permitting — the coast of New Guinea
is clearly visible, and along the Gulf of Carpentaria
and several islands of the Sunda sea, as for instance
Timor, Sumbava and Bali, well-known from former
visitations of earthquakes.

Leaving Bali, the east coast of Java appeared in
sight and we were most disagreeably surprised to see

— 42 —

the yellow flag hoisted — a warning that the Cholera
was raging in Java. Batavia, the capital of Java,
has about 99,000 inhabitants. The European quar
ter is at Weltenvreden, a suburb of Batavia. Here
is the winterpalace of the Governor-General.

The zoological garden contains beautiful speci
men of Ourang-Outangs. The many military and
civil clubs heighten the attraction of the place. The
commerce in staplegoods and the trade in coffee and
sugar is important. 80 miles from here, at the basis
of the mountains is Buytenzorg.

The Governor-General s' Jaacobs had the good
ness to furnish me with recommendations to the
residents in the country and to his friend, Mr. Holle,
the owner of large tea plantations in the interior.

Buytenzorg, in my opinion, has the most impor
tant botanical garden in the world. It is almost
impossible to give a description of the variety of
plants, etc., which delight the eyes of the visitor of
this lovely spot. Nepenthes of an unusual brilliancy
grow here abundantly. Here also, as somewhere else,
the director of the botanical garden, Doctor Treub,
favored me with his kindness, so much so, that the
iDotanical garden in Berlin again received a valuable
sending of fruits, plants, seeds, roots, etc., etc.

In the hospital for Berri-berri patients — this
malady appearing in some tropical climates — begin
ning with Oedema of the lower extremities and
generally ending fatally — I found a great number

— 43 —

of persons afflicted with this dreadful disease — some
of them in a dying condition.

The agricultural institute is very important.

The summer palace of the Governor-General is
also here.

Domestic weapons are offered for sale every
where in this palace.

To reach Sindanglaya, 3,800 feet above the sea,
vehicles, drawn by ponies, had to be hired. The
road is in a very good condition, and leads through
a magnificent Flora. Every five miles the caravan
passes through a so-called Tal (an old post station),
and rests for a while. The latter part of this journey
is performed over a mountain pass of the Ghedde
mountains.

The valley of Sindanglaya is pretty well settled
and cultivated, the climate of which is very healthy,
and affords protection against all kinds of fevers.

The cultivation of rice — like almost everywhere
in Java — is carried on in a large style, drainage
universally.

My next aim was "Wandong, the capital of
Preanger, 2,500 feet above the level of the sea.

Wandong is the seat of the Eesident and the
Regent, and is surrounded by mountains. The
Regents in Java are former land proprietors and
Mahometan princes. Their duties consist in settling
disputes amongst the Natives (Mahometans) and in
procuring shelter for travellers*

The morals of the Natives in this country are

— 44: —

not as strict as those of their co-religionists in India
or elsewhere. They indulge in wine and entertain
an almost amicable relationship with Europeans.

The Eesident van Yloeten, to whose family I
had already been introduced in Batavia, received me
most cordially, and I shall never forget his kindness.

A visit to the cinchona plantation, 5,000 feet
above the sea, on a volcanic formation, was worth the
troublesome travel.

The bark of the Calisaya Ledgeriana, here cul
tivated, yields from 10 to 12 per cent, quinine, whilst
from the Indian scarcely 3 per cent, is obtained.

Messrs. Junghuhn and Haszkarl, two well-known
savants, authors of many valuable works on natural
sciences, deserve the credit to have added greatly to
the introduction, respectively the cultivation of
quinine on the Island.

The mountain Flora of Java has been minutely
described by Mr. Junghuhn, whose monument is
found at the base of the mountain on which the
above mentioned plantation is situated.

A rich tropic vegetation surrounds the traveller
until Lembong is reached, when a horse has to be
mounted in order to ascend to the cinchona plan-
tation.

The lower part of the mountain is planted with
tobacco.

My reception on the plantation by the Natives
will never be forgotten by me. They did all in their
power to make my stay there agreeable — dancing,

— 45 —

singing and performing all sorts of native juggleries,
going on all the time.

Returning to Sindanglaya I made preparations
for the intended visit to the Volcano Ghedde, 10,000
feet above the sea.

I found a companion in the person of the Dutch
Colonel Smith, and at about nine o'clock in the
evening we started on horseback, with our guard and
torchlight bearers in the front and rear.

The way leads through dense forests and an
immensely rich tropical vegetation.

Here also, as on the ascent of the Kawa Opus
crater, the caTalcade rests at the different stations,
and at the break oi: day the open plane, underneath
which is the little hut where travellers make a long
siesta, is reached.

It is superfluous to describe this volcano, as it
resembles in every respect the Kawa-Opus and
Kawa-Eatu, the same desert-like surroundings, total
absence of any vegetation, or dwarf bushes here and
there, contrasting with the lovely verdure of the
lower parts of the mountain. The approach of the
rainy season was to be expected soon — it being
November ; the heat was almost unbearable, not less
than 100° in the shade, and I*was, therefore, anxious
to leave the Island and take passage in Batavia for
Singapore.

A peculiarity on the Island of Java is the law
which prohibits the hoisting of any other flag than
the Netherland.

— 46 —

In the eastern part of the Island the Japanese
language is spoken ; in the west the Sundanese, and
on the coast Malayan, whilst French and Dutch are
in general use, especially by commercial people.

Agriculture, formerly feudalistic, is progressing
favorably now, and has been ever since that system
was abandoned, and the population is becoming
somewhat prosperous.

The most important colony of the Netherland
Indies is Java, which politically includes the neigh
boring Island of Madura. The total area, 50,848
square miles. Population, 20,259,000.

Java is governed under what ia termed the
Culture system, which was established in 1832.

By far the larger part of the commerce of Java
is with the Netherlands.

The principal exports are sugar, coffee, rice,
indigo and tobacco.

I left Batavia in the first part of the month of
November on a Dutch steamer carrying troops for
Acheen, one of the two capitals of the Island of
Sumatra, and intended to proceed to Singapore.

The voyage was not very pleasant for me.

We had not reached the Island of Rhio, when,
to my great horror, Asiatic cholera was raging among
the soldiers on board the ship, decimating them and
leaving us in constant fear to be also subjected to this
terrible scourge.

Notwithstanding the protests of the authorities
of Ehio, the landing of all the sick was effected

— 47 —

there, and we proceeded on our journey, leaving them
at Khio, situated on the Equator.

I remained for some time in Singapore, whose
population consists mostly of Chinese, some of whom
are very wealthy.

Singapore is a free port. The climate, though
in the dreaded neighborhood of the Sunda Islands
and the Indian continent, is tropical and healthy.

The environs of Singapore are almost infested
with tigers, and one is assured here that not a single
day in the year passes without that at least one
Chinese is devoured by the brutes.

There are extensive plantations of tapioka, a
Maranthus, in the interior. The cultivation of betel
pepper and cocoanut palms is also very important,
and from the many odoriferous grasses and weeds
essential oils are extracted, especially from the
lemon grass.

By the kindness of the English Governor, Sir
Frederic Weld, residing here, who gave me a very
cordial reception, I was introduced to the Resident
of Perak, and was invited by the latter to visit him.

A special invitation of the Maharajah of Johore,.
whose magnificent palace is situated in the extreme
south of the Malayan peninsula, to be his guest, was
heartily welcomed. After a three days' stay there,
he requested his nephew to accompany me to the
Gambir and Pepper plantations, in the interior ; and
to the Indigo, Yam and Sago plantations in the
southwesterly part of the State.

In order to reach these latter, the so-called
straits — a waterway — have to be crossed, and for
that purpose the Maharajah had a small steamer,
used only by himself, in readiness for us.

The great kindness- and generosity of the
Maharajah enabled me to study the country pro
foundly.

On this journey I found remnants of an aban
doned nutmeg cultivation.

Livery and coachmen in this part of the country
recruit themselves from India, whilst the rest of the
serving class consists of Malayans.

The language is Malaye, the religion Mahometan
or Hindoo.

On an excursion to the Island of Penang, 4° north
between Sumatra and the Malayan Peninsula, on
which way Malacca has to be passed, I had the
honor to be the guest of Lieutenant-Governor Anson.

The city of Penang is romantically situated ; the
population mostly Chinese.

On board a steamer belonging to the Govern
ment, and generously put at my disposal, I proceeded
to Perak to visit the Eesident, and traveled from
there to the tin-mining region, worked by Chinamen.

Many coffee plantations are found in this
mountainous country, and to visit the Government's
plantation I had to ride on the back of an elephant.
The cultivation of Durian, a fruit, tasting like cheese,
and which reaches the size of a child's head, is car
ried on here.

— 49 —

At the request of the German Consul-General,
Mr. Bieber, to study the cultivation of sugar cane in
the Province of Wellesley and elsewhere, and to pro
cure all possible statistics regarding the same, I
started after my return to Penang for Wellesley.

This country is very low, on a level with the sea.
I found all plantations, etc., alike. There are a great
many canals, serving to drain the country and to
ship the cane, sugar, etc. I also went to Siam, the
neighboring state of Wellesley, and gathered all
profitable knowledge about the sugar cane cultiva
tion and the manufacturing of sugar, and after com
municating the same to the Consul, I returned to
Singapore.

The Islands of Singapore and Penang, and the
territories of Malacca and the Province of Wellesley
constitute the Straits Settlements of Great Britain,
which, politically, with six provinces in Siam and a
number of small Malay states, either tributary to, or
in treaty with the above powers, belong to the
Asiatic peninsula, Malay, the southernmost point of
the Continent.

The area of Malay is about 70,000 square miles,
and the estimated population 650,000. Of the
interior of this country there is less known than of
any other point in Asia. The surface is very uneven,
the climate moist and hot, the temperature on the
Makran coast and in the Persian Gulf is 110° and at
times 125°.

4

— 50 —

Out of 365 days, 190 are rainy, the rainfall from
100 to 130 inches.

The straits settlements have an area of 1,445
square miles and 423,384 population.

From Singapore to Hong-Kong the sea voyage
lasted eight days and was a very unpleasant one, as
we had to suffer from very vehement northeast
Monsoons.

Hong-Kong is a colony of Great Britain and
was formerly a part of China. It consists of the
Islands of Hong-Kong, ceded to Great Britain in
1881, and the opposite Peninsula of Kow-loon, ceded
to England in 1861. The government is administered
by a Governor, aided by an Executive Council.
There is also a Legislative Council. The total
population of Hong-Kong is 160,420, of whom but
7,900 are white persons.

Hong-Kong forms the centre of trade for many
different kinds of goods. Its commerce is virtually
a part of that of China, and is chiefly carried on with
the United States, Germany and Great Britain.

The tea and silk trade of China is largely in the
hands of Hong-Kong firms.

The country is but little cultivated and crossed
by a sinister mountain range. Most all the vege
tables are shipped from Macao to this country.

A very bad fever, called the Hong-Kong fever,
a combination of cholera, yellow and typhoid fever,
is raging here, but is diminishing now on account of
the sanitary precautions.

— 51 —

The principal place is Victoria, situated in the
north of the Chinese coast.

South of the city, on a high mountain, are the
fortifications, separating the city from the sea.

The commercial part of the city is close to the
port, the other, in a terrace-like elevation, extends
to the mountain south of Victoria.

There are many Portuguese here intermarrying
with the Chinese populace.

At the time of my stay in Hong-Kong, Doctor
von Moellendorf, the well-known zoologist, was the
representative of the German Empire there.

Here also it was, where I received the honor
able commission from Professor Bastian and Doctor
Jagor, of Berlin, Prussia, to extend my travels to the
little explored Philippines for the purpose of ethno
graphic studies and the collection of anthropological
and ethnological objects, thus to enrich science.

I will show later, how I managed to meet the
gratification of these two " Hommes celebres " and
the famous pathologist, Professor Doctor Virchow>
in Berlin.

I made frequent excursions on steamers — all of
which were well armed, to stand an attack of the
pirates — sailing through the bay and along the Pearl
river. From the deck of the steamer, when on the
river, the most prominent Pagodes of Canton are
visible.

On one of these extravaganzas, I visited Canton,
and after inspecting the open vaults with their

— 52 —

costly sarcophagos and admiring the gorgeously
ornamented Pagodes and the pretty Jade works
manufactured here, I left Canton, not without having
seen the "Public Execution Grounds," and returned
to Hong-Kong to make arrangements for the pro
bably long lasting tour to the Philippine Islands.

Having succeeded in procuring some indispens
able vademecums for that voyage, I hastened my
departure from Hong-Kong, and landed first in Macao,
a Portuguese possession on the Chinese boundary.

Macao is a beautifully situated city, the bay one
of the finest.

Partially surrounded by verdant hills, with
lovely flower gardens and villas in the centres, the
city makes a favorable impression on the stranger.
Were it not for the almost uninterrupted tolling of
the many church and convent bells, which is often
deafening, the sojourn in Macao would be very
agreeable.

The population is very mixed, and one is sur
prised to find so many idlers in the streets and
squares.

Portuguese, Chinamen and Negroes, are met
with at every step; also, Priests, Patres, Fratres
and Nuns.

Women, most of whom are of a dark color, dress
in the Portuguese style, with the indispensable
Manto and the high colored cloth wound around the
head.

The gambling dens of Macao are of world-fame.

— 53 —

From here it takes three days for Manila, the
capital of Luzon, one of the Philippine Islands.

A small boat with four or six rowers brings the
traveller to the city, only to be subjected to great
troubles by the custom officers (Duana). Manila
has a botanical garden, small, but exceedingly
pretty.

Here I had the great honor to form the acquaint
ance of Captain-General Primo di Kivera, the famous
botanist Yidal, the Jesuit, Padre Faura, whose
scientific works on the Chinese Tai-Fun are well-
known, the German Consul-General Kemperman and
the chemist Grupe, all of which were instrumental in
my successful explorations.

Padre Faura requested me to visit the district
of Dupax, where, especially in the last twelve
months, frequent earthquakes occurred. I gratified
the wish of that gentleman as will be seen hereafter.

Of the population of Manila, Indians of the.
Malayan race are in plurality. They are called
Indianos. The rest of the inhabitants consists of
Negritos, Mestizos and Europeans.

The Mestizos are a beautiful set of men, and
most all of them are in good circumstances. The
Singleys, cross-breeds of Chinese and Indianos, are
also well to do. Population of Manila, 160,000.

Though not a professional Ethnologist — my
favorite studies were always Natural Sciences— I
accepted the honorable commission of the celebrated,
German Savants, to explore the north of Luzon, the

— 54 —

largest island of the Philippines, with great joy and
a pride, impossible to describe.

The science of Ethnography up to that time
was a " terra incognita " to me, and yet I was full of
hopes to meet with success.

Of all the distant islands and groups lying just
off the coast of southeastern Asia, in Malaysia, none
had been less explored by scientific travellers than
the Philippines; whether from their geographical
situation in that remote corner of the world or from
the hardships and exposures to which one is sub
jected in the uncultivated and wild interior, is a
mere conjecture.

Of the few visitors of scientific-literary fame,
who explored part of the Philippines ethnolgically
or for the purpose of natural sciences, the following
gentlemen have to be mentioned : Professor Carl
Semper in Wuerzburg, von Drasche, Doctor Jagor
and Meyer, all Germans.

The explorations which Professor Semper made
amongst the Negritos, are undoubtedly the most
important. Doctor Jagor' s work, in which the
learned gentleman describes the Philippines, has
been translated by my worthy friend, the botanist
Vidal in Manila, into Spanish.

I found a companion for the probable weary-
some tour to the north, in the person of the Literary,
Mr. Au, a German, and preparing ourselves for this
extensive journey, we intended to start from a certain
point, in different directions and meet again, but had

— 55 —

to abandon this plan on account of the unsafety in
this country.

It would fill pages to specify all the articles
which we bought for the trip, suffice to say, the
apparatus for photographs, cooking utensils, tent,
arms and provisions, were a great burden to us.

Before starting from Manila, we visited the
Lagunas in the vicinity, the Botocan Cascades and
the Volcano Tal.

On the morning of the 20th of March, the little
expedition left Manila in the best of humor, and
crossed the northeasterly point of the bay to Bulacan
and thence through well cultivated land and Quingo,
Balinag, San Miguel de Mayum to San Isidro, where
we were hospitably received by the Commander of
the Guardia Civil, Mr. Scheidnagel, having been
recommended by Mr. Yidal.

Mr. Scheidnagel takes a great interest in natural
sciences, and is the author of a work on the Phil
ippines and on Benguet in special, which latter he
describes in a separate little book.

In the latest German ethnographical works the
name of Scheidnagel is honorably mentioned, and
his work recommended.

For our scientific purposes, his letters of recom
mendation to the Governors of the provinces of
Nueva Yiscaya and Principe, and to his subordinate
Chiefs of the GuarJia Civil were of incalculable
advantage and gave us the right to demand a military
escort in case of necessity.

— 56 —

Finding nothing of interest in this and tKe
middle part of Nueva Ecija, we proceeded to the
north, passing Calavetuan, Talaveras, San Jose and
Punkan.

We remained several days in Caraglan, in whose
neighborhood Kancherias' of a wild tribe, the Ibilaos
or Ilongotes, exist.

The Franciscan Monk in Caraglan possessing a
great knowledge of the country and the people
inhabiting the same, participated in our undertaking,
and in company with the sergeant of the Guardia
Civil stationed there, conducted us to the distant
Eancheria of the Ibilaos, giving his best advises as
how to procure ethnographic objects.

Of the many photographs which we had made
in this Eancheria of the wild tribe, only one was suc
cessfully obtained, the high temperature of the water
and its limy contents damaged them considerably.

Thanks to the indefatigable Frater, who also
acts as a spiritual functionary, we succeeded in
procuring great quantities of ethnographic objects,
such as arms, ornaments and articles for domestic
use.

All these objects were received by us in exchange
for clothes, jewelry, etc. After leaving Caraglan we
crossed, north of the latter, the Carabalho mountains,
which divide the two provinces of Nueva Ecija and,
Nueva Yiscaya.

On both sides of the mountains live the above
mentioned Ibilaos or Ilongotes.

— 57 —

From the Carabalho Sur (southern Carabalho)
on the east and southeast to Cassiguran and Buler,
and in the south, extending to Caraglan, San Jose,,
etc., Ibilaos Rancherias are scattered everywhere.

The Carabalho Sur divides the middle of north
ern Luzon and inclines in the western and eastern
part of the island toward the north and south, thus
forming large sized central planes in the north and
south.

On the other, the northern part of this Cordil-
lere, called Carabalho, and along the many branches,
as far as to the eastern part of the mountains in
Nueva Viscaya, Ibilaos are also living.

The Cordillere in the east of Yiscaya is but
little known.

Opposite Bayambong in the East is a mountain
4000 feet above the level of the sea, and considered
to be the centre of the earthquakes of late.

We could not get any information about this
mountain nor the dense, primitive forests or the
inhabitants.

The Ibilaos of other districts only knew that
their enemies inhabit that region. They called them
Ibalaos or Ilongotes like themselves and would not
— under any consideration — accompany us, so much
afraid were they of them.

As there are a great many Rancherias, I will
only mention a few of them, the names, as given by
the Ibilaos. In Carabalho Sur are three, high up in
the West, Liroc.

— 58 —

Along the east coast, south of Cassiguran in the
adjacent mountains, are Dagan, Ampatan and many
unknown small ones. Near Buler (Principe) Patang
and Gumiat.

To the south and west of Buler live Balugas,
.also called Dumagas, belonging to the Negritos
which are spread almost over the whole north of
Luzon.

The inhabitants of Cassiguran (Contra Costa)
are called Ipogaos.

Eancheria Resale, which we visited, contains
from 12 to 15 houses and has tobacco, sugar cane,
camote and banana plantations.

In the gardens of the Ibilaos, Camote, (Con
volvulus batata) Gave, (Calladium esculentum, or
Sagittae folium of Linne) of which only the root and
the leaves are eaten, corn, onions, garlick and rice
are cultivated.

The rice crop yields but little, drainage not
existing.

The Ibilaos of Eosale communicate with the
Indians and seemed to be of an obliging and trust
worthy character and quite Harmless.

According to their own statement, they have a
kind of a religion.

Though the sun and the moon are not wor
shipped by them, they nevertheless consult them as
oracles.

The halo of the moon or the sun, the appear
ance of these bodies when they rise or set, whether

— 59 —

stars are visible in their neighborhood, or if nebula
exist and how they are formed, all this influences the
Ibilao in all his undertakings. Deductions are
made from them and their natural superstition is
systematically nourished.

Monogamy is the only legal form among the
Ibilaos and fornication is punished with the death
of both guilty parties, it becoming the duty of the
nearest relatives of the incriminated to put them to
death.

At a very early stage of life children marry,
(the parents stipulating a verbal marriage contract)
and unite when at a mature age, then the real
wedding takes place.

The dowry consists of a certain number of
weapons, domestic utensils and pigs, and is selected,
naturally under the influence of her parents, by the
bride.

Intermarriages in large families are common,
but never does a brother marry his sister.

Newly born infants receive a kind of a baptism,
water is spilled on their heads and salt put into the
mouths by an old woman.

Baptisations, weddings and funerals are always
followed by bacchanalies, the same as with the
Indians.

The Ibilaos do not know any divisions of time
or seasons except the time of the harvest.

Nunos, their evil spirit, is very much feared by

— 60 —

them, as it is lie who sends all the misfortunes, and
he is therefore invited to all their festivities.

Of medicinal plants they only know a few herbs
and barks of trees and these are only used for ex
ternal wounds, etc. Their weapons are the campilang,
a sheathknife, the lancet, arrow and shield. Ear
rings, necklaces and bracelets are worn on the tipper
part of the arm by both sexes and the waistcloths
are the usual ornaments of the Ibilaos.

Cowards by nature, they are very treacherous
and very much feared for their cruelty and brutality,
not only do they persecute their greatest enemies,
the Negritos, but are in constant war with their own
tribes or even kinsmen.

Armed from head to foot and using the same
weapons as their western neighbors of the Central
Cordillere, the Igorrotes, they are born warriors.

The industry of the Ibilaos is very limited and
is confined to the weaving or rather binding of the
fibre of a plant into Parneros, (sieves) and Cribas de
bejuce (baskets), also in the collecting of honey and
wax. All the mentioned articles are either sold or
exchanged in the Christian villages.

Hunting is one of their favorite sports. Their
cruelty is without limit and their bloodthirst makes
no distinction between friend or foe.

They murder Negritos and Indians of the neigh
boring villages, where and whenever they get a
chance to do so, but not like the Igorrotes for mere

— 61 —

bravado. The motives of their killing in most in
stances is superstition.

The most precious thing a young man tenders
to his affianced is a finger, an ear or any other limb
of a person murdered by him.

To-day, several tribes unite to execute their
fiendish purposes of killing harmless persons, and
to morrow, perhaps, we find these same tribes as
bitter antagonists, murdering each other for no cause
but to satisfy their bloodthirsty passions.

In these bloody expeditions the young sons of the
Ibilaos participate, or when of too tender an age, are
instructed by their fathers in the art of severing the
head from the body of a murdered person.

At the death of a member of a family, the lat
ter, accompanied by friends, leave the Eancheria in
a procession and murder whoever comes in sight of
them, thus avenging the dead.

This same bloody ceremony is performed by the
Ibilaos after harvesting, to offer thanks to the in
fernal gods.

The density of the mountain-forests and the
almost impassable, narrow and uneven roads are the
cause that these barbarians can not be persecuted.

Though, as already described, well armed, they
also use Puas' (traps) from which — once entrapped —
no one can extricate himself.

Barely are two Ibilaos seen wandering the same
way together, for fear that their footprints would be
followed and the place of concealment revealed.

— 62 —

According to Professor Blumentritt, the Ibilaos
of Carabalho Sur live only towards the North and
Northwest, their habitations extending to the Cara
balho de Buler.

The same author describes them as of small
stature and weak physical strength, that Negrito-
blood flows through their veins and that they have
no agriculture.

Our observations differ greatly from the above,
inasmuch as we have already described, that we had
seen their cultivation of cereals and fruits, etc. The
statement about the Negritoblood can not be applied
exclusively to the Ibilaos, since Negritos are spread
all over the Philippines and not only over Northern
Luzon.

Buzeta and Bravo, two Spanish authors, say
that the Ibilaos lead miserable lifes and are deficient
of even the smallest luxuries.

We cannot agree with them.

All the Eancherias which we visited were not
in such bad conditions as described. The Negritos
are much poorer in their ways and modes of living.
In Blunientritt's essay, the Ibilaos of the neighbor
hood of the Contra Costa are called Ilongotes. We
differ also in this respect, referring to authentical
sources and our own researches.

From Caraglan in a distance of six miles we
visited a Eancheria high up in the mountains.

The expedition was accompanied by the pa
rochial clergyman and the sergeant of the Guardia

— 63 —

Civil from Caraglan, both of which shared in the
tedious journey in the most amiable way.

We passed the night in a miserable hut, and
started early next morning, in order to accomplish
our intended negotiations with the Ibilaos.

Very little money was required — as the Ibilaos
preferred the exchange of the articles desired by us
for the goods we 'had in store — and a nice collection
of ethnographical objects was procured.

In this Rancheria we found beautiful, classical
figures, of imposing physical strength ; some others
resembled Chinese and Japanese, which circumstance
leads to the supposition that they had intermixed
with the latter when their habitations were on the
west coast.

We returned on the next day to Caraglan
fatigued from the mountain trip, and started shortly
afterwards for Aretao, north-northwest of Caraglan.
Our march led over the Carabalho, which divides the
north of Luzon.

From a mountain pass, about 3,500 feet above
the level of the sea, and very steep, we had beautiful
views of the mountain forest underneath and the
distant Contra Costa (Pacific coast) dawning in the
east, the sea not visible.

Our first station was made in Camerin San
Lazar, on this side of the Pass, at about noon, on
account of the inclemency of the weather.

The station, consisting of an old hut, open in.
many places, afforded a bad shelter.

— 64 —

The rear part of this hut served as a parlor and
reception room for my companion and myself, whilst
the front part was densely crowded by our servants,
the Indians and the military escort on this expedition
from Caraglan.

A few miles distant from the hut, or blockhouse,
the steep ascent of the Carabalho commences.

This road affords an excellent opportunity for
botanists ; vegetation abounds and is exceedingly
rich.

In the quartz sand we found diminutive gold
leaves, and concluded that these mountains must
contain gold ore, but could not pay much attention
to this discovery, our time not permitting it.

The distance from Caraglan to Aretao, the first
pueblo on the other side of the Carabalho, is about
28 miles, and the expedition reached this place in
two days. On the first day we made only a short
march, the weather was too uncertain, but on the
second day, though we had to walk a great deal over
the high mountains in consequence of the terrible
condition of the road, we succeeded in terminating
our tour.

On the other side of the Carabalho is also a
shelter for travellers, called San Claro. This building
is much smaller than that of Camerin San Lazar, but
cleaner.

It was late in the night when we arrived at
Aretao.

The place is romantically situated, and was the

— G5 —

more picturesque as it showed the signs of the
destruction caused by the last earthquake.

The cloister also was a heap of ruins, and the
clergyman lived in a small Indian house.

We could not find any other place, so we put
up at the spacious school house of the village.

The day following our arrival, we visited the
few Europeans of the place, viz.: the Priest and the
Officer of the Gendarmeria. The former is a vener
able gentleman and a good scholar.

Here, in Aretao, we found ourselves in the region
where the earthquakes of 1881 had caused immense
destructions and of which the director of the meteo
rological observatory in Manila, Padre Faura, had
given us some accounts, requesting us at the same
time to investigate the accompanying phenomena of
these terrestrial revolutions.

According to the statements of the inhabitants,
the earthquakes occurred towards the end of the
summer of 1881, in Nueva Yiscaya.

This region had seldom been visited by earth
quakes, and for that reason caused a terrible panic
among the peacable populace, more so, as the con
cussion of the earth was so intense and not in
a horizontal direction, like in other parts of the
Philippines, but vertically, thus giving vent to the
fear of the outburst of a new volcano.

This fear was premature, the concussions ceased
at the beginning of the rainy season.

— 66 —

Two and a half leagues from Aretao is Dupax
or Dupaz.

Here, inmidst a remarkably beautiful moun
tainous country we halted, intending to remain
several days, plenty of work awaiting us there. In
the vicinity of Dupaz are a great number of Ban-
cherias of the Ibilaos, of which four were visited by
us.

The cura, or catholic priest, of Dupaz, was a
venerable old gentleman, doing his best to give us
all possible comfort, and though 65 years old, de
veloped great energy, combined with a vivacious
temperament and a strong power of will and action.

Devoting himself to the duties of his high office
as Parochial Priest of Nueva Yiscaya, he nevertheless
studied natural sciences, etc.

The Indians respected the pious, old gentleman
reverently, and even the Gobernadorcillo (the mayor
of the village) trembled when the stentorian voice of
the Cura was heard.

All these good qualities of the Priest were of
great value to us. With all our efforts and offers to
induce the Indians to accompany us to the Ean-
cherias, we did not succeed until the good, old Priest
interfered, and all hesitation, fears and resistances on
the part of the Indians were instantaneously
banished.

We supplied them with arms, etc., and started
for ^the Rancherias in the mountain forests, south
and southwest of Dupaz.

— 67 —

The precaution of arming the Indians is an
indispensable necessity, and encounters almost cer
tain, even if well armed. The Ibilaos lay in ambush,
and one is never safe until far away from their
abodes and arrows.

The first Eancheria visited was in the centre of
a dense forest, and the houses not in such bad con
ditions as described by other travellers. The tri
bunal or town hall, a small, clean building, served us
as lodging.

Like the Indians, they have a captain or chief.
This captain made himself very useful to us, acting
jointly with our interpreter as a medium between
the Ibilaos and us, thus enabling us to add greatly
to the Ibilaos dictionary, which I began in Caraglan.

Among the men as well as the women we found
beautiful specimens. The women are prettier than
the Indians down in the valley.

Beside the inhabited houses we found store
houses for the crop, built in Chinese style. These
and some of the types of the Ibilaos with their
jewelries, leave no doubt that there must have been
an intimate intercourse, commercially and sociably,
between them and the Chinese in former times.

Around the Eancherias are gardenlike planta
tions with tobacco, corn, Gabi, (Caladium esculentum)
sugar cane and rice.

The Ibilaos bury their dead not far from their
houses, near the banks of rivers.

The tribunal in the Eancheria is beautifully

— 68 —

situated on the summit of a pretty steep hill, the
>lower part of the latter covered by the few houses.

We photographed some of the Ibilaos, in groups
and single, in different positions, also houses and
landscapes and were very successful, obtaining quite
a number.

Satisfied with the results of our expedition in
this part of the island, we left Dupaz for Bombang.
From the top of a hill, Bombang, with its little
church, beautifully situated, affords an excellent
view.

The monastery in this place was destroyed by
the earthquake, and we took shelter in the tribunal
— temporarily erected — the old tribunal, which was
a massive stone building, having also been demol
ished.

We came to the conclusion that Bombang and
the surrounding country was the centre of the earth
quakes of last year.

In the last Rancheria of the Ibilaos, not far
from Bombang, we found nothing of interest.

Already before Bombang is reached, the settle
ments of the Igorrotes are entered into.

The inhabitants of the Province of Nueva
Yiscaya have to be divided in three groups. The
largest part of this province, to the east, is inhabited
by the Ibilaos or Ilongotes, both names being used
by the wild tribes. They are the same as the Ibilaos
of the Carabalho and Dupaz. The Ilongotes which
we had seen in Carig, are like the former, carried

— 69 —

the same weapons, articles, arrows, lances and shield,
and had also their front teeth broken out.

The Ibilaos which settled in San Nino, near
Bombang, used the same dialect as the Carabalho
Ibilaos. With the collected words and phrases we
were able to make ourselves understood.

Here we made excavations of skulls and bones
of the race described, and I was enabled to send a
pretty large collection of such to the famous patho
logical anatomist, Professor DoctorVirchow in Berlin,
for anthropological studies.

The number of Ibilaos can not be given, since
the districts along the eastern coast are totally un
known.

They wear the long hair in a switch around the
head like the Chinese.

The types of the faces vary, from the genuine,
broad face of the Chinaman with the protruding
cheekbone to the oval form of the Caucasian race.

They have no idols, but are as superstitious as
the Igorrotes and like these latter consult their
oracles, viz.: the condition and form of the liver and
gall bladder of the sacrificed chickens and swines.

Padre Villaverde, whose guests we were when
in Ibung, describes their mode of warfare.

They live in monogamy and the housework as
well as the work in the fields is performed by the
wives, hunting and fishing by the men.

They build their Rancherias near streams and
rivers, on mountain slopes or hidden abysses.

— 70 -

Every Kancheria has an Elder who settles do
mestic troubles and in time of war is the leader.

It was impossible to get any information about
their law-business.

The houses are built of cana (cane) and poles,
covered with cogon (grass).

They seem to change their abodes frequently.

The plains in the centre, under Spanish su
premacy, respectively in Dupaz and Bombang, are
inhabited by Indians, who, in anpearance, etc., incline
to Ibilaos, being descendants 01 the latter by inter
marrying. The Indians in Aretao, from the same
causes, intermarrying with Pangarinan and Agno
Igorrotes, resemble Igorrotes, and those in Bayam-
bong and Bagabac, the Gaddan Igorrotes.

The Igorrotes near Bombang immigrated from the
mountains of the west, those in the vicinity of Aretao
from the Agno.

The Pangarinan and Agno Igorrotes have a
great similarity with the Igorrotes of Benguet, the
same broad faces with flat noses, and are just as filthy
and poor as they.

The Gaddanes immigrated in the past century
from the Saltan, and settled all over the plains as far
as to the mountains of Quiangan and Silipan.

It can not be stated whether they found free
land and settled upon, or other Ibilaos occupying
already parts of the country.

The third group consists of the Igorrotes of
Quiangan, Silipan and Mayoyaos.

— 71 —

They cut the hair round the head. The houses,
especially those of the better situated Principales,
are built of wooden boards, with neither chimneys
nor windows, and contain one door ; they are elevated
above the ground, supported by poles, and at night
time the ladder is drawn in and the door locked.

These are very wild tribes.

The Eancherias in Quiangan, numbering 53, have
a population of 13,000, and the 81 in Silipan over
15,000.

Near Diadi, where 19 Eancherias exist, the pop
ulation, mostly Mayoyaos, numbers 2,376.

The Perugianes, their neighbors to the north, on
both sides of the river Magat, up to the Saltan dis
trict, though of the same tribe, are their bitterest
enemies.

According to what the Spanish captain of the
boat related to us, there was a fight between the
Perugianes and the Mayoyaos, in which 14 were
killed and buried by the military, but were exhumed
by the Igorrotes the very same night.

All these wild tribes are independent of the
Spaniards, notwithstanding the Spanish missions and
the frequent military expeditions. Bordering to the
north, in the province of Isabella in the Saltan dis
trict, from the river Magat in the northwest to the
Partido Itabes and the river Bangag, live Gaddanes.

Blumentritt mentions their neighbors to the
left, in the southwest and west as Mayoyaos, and
Ifugaos in the south and southeast, in the west the

— 72 —

Itetapanes and on the right side, north and north
west the Dadayags, north the Bayabmanes and
Itaves, and Calauas in the northwest.

The name " Ifugao " in the Gaddan dialect, as
spoken by the Indians of Nueva Viscaya in the
pueblos Bayambong, Solano and Bagabac, collect
ively, means wild tribes, the same as " Calinga " in
the Ibanac and Cagayan is a cognomen for wild and
not baptized Igorrotes.

In all my wanderings, I never heard the Daday
ags mentioned. The map of Luzon points to the
district of Pangul, on the narrow plains of the rio
Pangul or Pungal, as their habitation and where they
cultivate the land and follow the fishing business.

Though I have never seen them, I am convinced
that they are the same as those in the Saltan.

The same author says that Igorrotes live only
in the Benguet district, and the Itetapanes up to the
Cordillere central, as the neighbors of the Busaco
Igorrotes from Lepanto and Bontoc. He describes
the Itetapanes as resembling the Gaddanes, and un
like the Igorrotes, darker and smaller in size.

My observations and investigations in regard to
the Igorrotes lead me to the supposition, that all the
20 or 22 tribes, so strictly distinguished by Blumen-
tritt, are one and the same race, and that the names
of the different districts or localities, and the many
dialects — corruptions of one original language — as
well as frequent exodus' and immigrations have unmis
takably added to this ethnographical error.

— 73 —

In my travels through the provinces of Nueva
Viscaya, Isabella and Cagayan, Spaniards and
Indians knew nothing of such distinctions, and col
lectively called all the unbaptized inhabitants of the
left side of the rio Cagayan : Igorrotes, Calingas or
Ifugaos.

How far the Saltan district extends, is not known.
According to Spanish statements, it comprises all the
valleys on the banks of the rio Saltan and its tribu
taries and the northwestern part of the province of
Isabella, 9 miles from the Cabezera.

The rio Saltan, crossing Isabella and part of
Cagayan parallel to the rio Cagayan, and variably
called rio chico, Bangag or Pinacpac, must therefore
be the head of the great river.

To my recollection, the river discharging near
the Eancheria Pinacpo, taking its course in the
north and northwest from the mountains, had been
called Saltan. It is not improbable that Gaddanes
Eancherias exist south of Pinacpo on the banks of
the rio chico, but I know positively, that people from
the district of the rio Saltan participated in the
festivities in Calapo, up on the rio Malhauec or Mal-
uec, and that they were pointed out to me as relatives
of the Calapos and Eipangs.

The types of these Calapos and Eipangs were of
the ordinary cut, and though we had seen entirely
different physiognomies in Pinacpo, some with finely
formed noses, we still classified them as Gaddanes.
They wore the same ornaments as the Pinacpo people,

— 74 —

liad their manners and customs, their houses
were built of the same material, cana, and had the
same rightangled forms. We found these high-roofed
houses also in Balario and Aripa, the women wearing
armrings and bracelets like those mentioned above
and the men the same garments.

As the district of the Calauas, better Eancheria
Calaua, the part high up in the second mountain
parallel where the rio Maluec takes its origin, was
pointed out to me.

On the map of Cuello, contrary to others, who
called it Saltan, the partido Itabes is found. The
Itabes proper, where he must be looked for now, is
undoubtedly in the region between rio Bangag or
chico and the rio Cagayan, commencing on the heights
of Solano and ending at Nariping. This is the most
iamous tobacco district.

Balani and Aripa purvey tobacco to the Govern
ment.

The Itabes speaking people were generally
called Calingas and styled themselves " Poor Calin-
gas" when in a conversation with us, making com
parisons.

All the Eancherias stream-upward of Maluec, are
enemies of the Apagaos.

Near Maluec, divided by a mountain range, lies
Apagaos on both banks of the rio Apagos, but
Negritto tribes are also there as in the Maluec
district. The Negrittos of Maluec are genuine Ne-
grittos and communicate with the Igorrotes, who

— 75 —

tolerate, but do not estimate them. I never saw
Negritto women with Igorrote men, or vice versa.

The Igorrotes used Negritto arrows and arches}
the Negrittos, instead of bolos, old worn out Aliguas
of the Igorrotes.

In regard to the principal usages of all the
Igorrotes from Bombang to Aripa, they all have the
same customs and the same Anito cultus, the latter
not so much a distinct religion or creed as an ob
servance of a certain pious and devoted regard for
the dead.

The ceremonies at funerals, etc., are all alike.
They bury their dead underneath their houses and
on changing their abodes take them along.

The sacrifices on behalf of the sick, the con
tracting of marriages and the dissolution of such are
exhaustively described by Padre Villaverde from his
experiences in Quiangan and Silipan.

The Benguet Igorrotes, too, have the very same
observances.

.All these little tribes have no state constitutions,
no judiciaries and no properly elected chieftains.

In which way or manner they dispose of their
troubles, etc., I could not ascertain. To all proba
bilities, some old normal usages are observed to
which they submit and thus settle matters.

Vendetta is almost a standard law with the
Igorrotes.

The dead, without avenge, does not find any
peace in the grave and causes the family great trouble.

— 76 —

A certain class of these wild tribes, prominent
through their wealth, a kind of patricians, are very
influential and domineering over the poorer.

They loan to the latter victuals or other things
and take usurous percentages.

Not able to pay the interests, which, in a short
time exceed the capital, they gradually sink into a
sort of slavery and have to work for their oppressors
in the fields or in the houses, thereby leading a
miserable existence.

The mountain Igorrotes have but little even land
on which to sow or plant, and as ploughs are un
known, a piece of wood, pointed on one end, is used
for turning the soil and making furrows.

Carabaos (buffaloes), which have to work in the
fields, etc., I have only seen in Balan and Aripa,
where the tribes were tamer and where the cultiva
tion of tobacco for sale was carried on, elsewhere
only the work of man. In Quiangan, where this
primitive way of working the fields is used, rice is.
the principal and most important crop. The nai^row
or broad terraces, constituting the fields, are built up
with grassy soil and stonedams, a very weary some work.

The smallest space of land is of an enormous
value in this part of the island and is inheritable.

This fact, and the solid wooden houses, lead to
the belief that the inhabitants never change their
habitations.

The climate is cooler than in the promontories,
and hence the massive buildings.

— 77 —

In the Saltan, the houses are not so solid, and
from the finding of big trees and logs, half charred*
it seems to be certain that the country was settled
in former times.

There is no industry amongst the Igorrotes,
their weapons, domestic utensils and jewelries are
exchanged from other Rancherias. From the valley
of Sapao, up in Bontoc, most of the bolos are gotten
from, and the woven clothes from Balani.

The so-called blacksmith shop in Pinacpo was
a very primitive affair, the hammers of which were
loaned to another Rancheria.

The art of forging iron is kept a great secret
with them.

Olios are manufactured of clay in the districts
where the latter is found.

It was in Pinacpo where the religious festivity, of
which I made mention above, took place. The origin
of it was as follows: A family lost a child by death
over a year ago, and shortly afterwards the pater
f amilias was suffering from a sore leg. This incident
leads them to the belief that the dead child endures
great hardships in heaven, amongst others, that it is
badly, if ever, nourished and therefore plaguing its
parents. To pacify the spirits, a continued sacri
ficing of chicken, pigs and other animals was or
dained, and for 21 days this was done under the
almost uninterrupted songs of both sexes.

It was just toward the end of this feast when we
arrived in Pinacpo, and we had a good opportunity

— 78 —

to witness the rites and ceremonies of the Anito
observances.

The wine which they drank on this occasion,
was made from the juice of sugar cane, and is very
intoxicating.

Ropes are manufactured here from ratan and
the fibre of the Anabu. Basket making is one of the
principal industries of the Igorrotes, and the Tagear-
abos, or headclothes, also from the fibres of certain
plants, are as fine as linen.

They use either old iron or steel bars from the
Indians, the forging of iron, etc., is unknown to them,
even their wooden shields are bought, and the poorer
class, not possessing any, have to lend them from
the richer when they intend to go hunting.

The Igorrote never leaves his house without his
lance and shield, the constant feud between the
Rancherias dictates this precaution.

We did not see any skulls of murdered persons
on the houses of the Saltans and Itabes as elsewhere,
but so-called victory columns, and when they are
erected after some successful encounters, festivities,
etc., follow these events.

The Igorrotes do not bury their killed enemies,
believing, that if they remain unburied they will
annoy and molest their relations.

Heroism is not to be found amongst the Igor-
rotes; they seldom fight a battle in the open field, but
cowardly kill the enemy from some hidden spot.

I found myself in Aringay, in the province of

— 79 —

San Fernando, with but one servant, unable to pro
cure a few more, and considering the voyage to
Benguet with this insufficient protection rather
unsafe, I intended to return to Manila, to recuperate
from the hardships to which I was subjected during
a four months stay in this forlorn corner of the Globe.

Satisfied that^the results of this expedition, viz :
the commission of Professor Bastian, Doctor Jagor
and the request of the Jesuit Father Faura would
meet with due acknowledgement and appreciation on
the part of those gentlemen, I assorted my collection
of ethnographical, anthropological, botanical and
geological curiosos and parted from my companion,
the indefatigable Mr. Au, who had shared in all de
privations so faithfully.

It is but just to state that the success with which
my travels in Luzon were crowned, is mostly due to
the generosity and kindness of the different catholic
Curas, the Commandants of the Guardia Civil, the
Gobernadorcillos, and especially to the druggist
Grupe in Manila, by whom I was recommended to
the above mentioned, and I here express my heart
felt thanks to them.

Without exaggerating, I can say that the four
months travel in the Philippines were of a far more
wearysome nature than my two years voyages in the
Himalayas, Ceylon and Java.

The Philippines belong to the Malaysia, which
latter comprises the islands and island groups lying
just off the coast of southeastern Asia, and containing

— 80 —

the large islands of Luzon, Mindanao, Celebes, Java,
Sumatra and Borneo, and is a division of Oceania.

The export from the Philippines chiefly consists
of coffee, cordage, hemp, indigo, rice, liquid indigo,
sugar and sapan wood, the proceeds of which were
23 millions of dollars in 1882.

The^irea of both Luzon and Mindanao, whose
capital Je pangan has 10,000 inhabitants, contains
about 97,000 square miles, the population 5,190,000.
Between the Philippines and 100° west longitude, are
situated the islands and groups of Polynesia.

Eeturned to Manila, I forwarded ethnographical
and other collected curiosities to Europe, and re
ported to Father Faura in a special, herein not con
tained, extract of my observations and experiences in
the region of the earthquakes of 1881, and after a
brief stay left Manila for Shanghai by way of Hong-
Kong on an English steamer of the Peninsula Oriental
line.

my return to Manila,! reported to the
European scientists and to several Spanish geo
graphical authors in different parts of the Philippine
Islands and took passage for Hong-Kong, respectively
Shanghai, on an English steamer.

Arrived in Shanghai, the sad news of the death of
my dear, beloved father had reached me, and thus I
was prevented to continue my intended journey to
Peckin or Peking.

From Hong-Kong to Shanghai, the Formosa Canal
has to be crossed and the Island of Formosa passed.

Wanchau, Ningpo and other places on the shores
offer nothing noteworthy.

Here is the famous monastery "Sicawei" and a
meteorological observatory.

A railroad, built in 1876 for the purpose of com
municating the two cities Shanghai and Woosung, a
distance of 20 miles, was bought by the Government
the year following and closed.

On account of my short stay in China, I made all
possible efforts to collect official Statistics and Data
regarding this Empire, and was partially successful.

Area: 4,419,150 square miles, with 371,180,000
population, consequently the most populated country in
the world.

— 82 —

The state religion, without any outward ceremonies,
has only a few symbolic rites on New Year's day, and
consists in the study of the doctrines of Confucius and
Lao-tse.

The plurality of the people are Buddhists and
public education almost universal, but few adults un
able to read and write.

It is asserted that China has had newspapers over
a thousand years ago.

23 Cities in the Chinese Empire have a population
of over 100,000 and 66 with over 50,000 souls.

The chief exports are tea and silk. The coal mines
of China rank amongst the greatest in the world, over
3 millions of tons are annually produced 5 the mines in
Kai-ping alone producing 600 tons daily.

It was absolutely impossible for me to get any
correct information about the Chinese u Flora/' as there
are no reliable sources to be found.

Procuring passage on a Japanese steamer of the
Mitsi-Pitsi line, commanded by an American captain,
we sailed first on the Leviathan of Rivers, the Yang-
tse-kiang, whose length is 3,320 miles and the basin of
which comprises an area of 950,000 square miles, and
afterwards on the China Sea, when we reached Naga
saki, in whose neighborhood is Decima.

From Nagasaki I visited the inland lakes of Japan.
The beauty of these lakes with their surrounding
sceneries, and the rich vegetation is almost indescribable.

Hiogo, the seaport of Osaka, an important city and
the commercial centre of Japan, is situated on a

— 83 —

gradually ascending wooded chain of hills, attaining an
altitude of 2,000' and has 20,000 inhabitants.

Several fresh water rivers discharge in the Bay of
Hiogo.

Of the national beverage of the Japanese, the Sake
or ricebeer, there are numerous breweries in this city.
This Sake, to comply with the taste of the Japanese
must have the following five qualities: bitter, sweet,
sour, sharp and astringent, and the odor of fusel-oil.

It contains from 11 to 17 per cent, alcohol. Ac
cording to analyzations by European chemists, the Sake
is detrimental to health, and still, of the whole rice crop
in Japan, 9 per cent, are used for manufacturing this
national draught.

I was assured here, that the brewing of Sake in
Japan, dates back as far as 2600 years, and that Sake
brewers from China had arrived in Japan 400 A. C. to
introduce the improved chinese Sake breweries.

Certain rules of etiquette regulate the quantities of
Sake to be drunk on different occasions and the revenues
of both, the Government and the Brewers, are immense.
Sake is brewed between the months of November and
March, as it requires a low degree of temperature.

The road from Hiogo to Osaka, a distance of 30
miles, leads through valleys, unbridged rivers and
mountain ridges, with eggplants, rice, cotton and beans
planted on the river shores.

Azaleas grow here abundantly in a wild state.

At a distance of about one mile from Osaka, the
palace, formerly inhabited by the Tycoon, is visible;

— 84 —

it is romantically situated on the summit of a hill,
crowned with a forest.

Osaka, on the shores of a great river and many
canals has an important commerce, several noteworthy
temples and a theatre.

Not far from Osaka, I visited the famous temple of
Buddha, in which the colossal bronze figure of Buddha
exists.

Hiogo was my starting point for the frequent ex
cursions to the interior of Japan, having been furnished
with passports from the Government to Kioto or Miako.

On this route Osaka is also reached. On a visit to
the Biwa lake — a nice sheet of water — I was surprised
to find in its vicinity an extensive monastery of Buddha
of which I had known nothing.

Returned to Hiogo, another excursion was made to
the Suonada lake, separating the two islands of Kiusin
and Sikopf from the larger island of Nipon (the latter,
the main-land and the largest of the groups of islands
and therefore called Dai-Nipon or Great Nipon).

This so-called Inland lake extends to the bay of
Osaka, has a length of about 200 miles and contains
numerous rocks and small islands.

Simonoseki, at the head of Suonada lake has 10,000
inhabitants, some commerce, and is surrounded by high
hills. In one of the temples of this place, a cartoon,
representing a sea battle, two swords and other relics of
Taiko-sama, the great soldier and founder of a small
dynasty of but a short duration, who lived at about the
year 1582, are shown.

— 85 —

Starting for the gold mines in the northwest and
afterwards by steamer to Yokohama, I boarded a train
for Tokio (formerly known as Yeddo or Jedo), one of
the two capitals.

The population of Tokio numbers 823,557.

One of the most important and famous temples in
Tokio is the Aoaxa? situated in the busiest portion of
the city j it is also called the temple of Quanona.

The god Quanon, with his 36 arms and 100
hands, is very popular and thousands of people are
constantly seen to crowd in his neighborhood.

The pilgrimages to Isje, where the 33 chief Quan-
quon temples exist, are the largest, and those to the
Buddhistic temples of Lin and Cami also of large pro
portions.

The state religion in Japan is Sinto, or Shinto, and
it is a remarkable feature that both, the orthodox dis
ciples of Sinto as well as the Buddhists, visit the Quan-
quon temples.

Of all the temples, however, the temple of Saif in
Sicousin, where Teentin died, is the pre-eminent.

In a northerly direction from here, I visited the
famous temple of Nikko, in whose neighborhood is a
volcanic chain of mountains where frequent eruptions
take place.

An excursion to the Hakone mountains, the most
beautiful in Japan, and where the extinct volcano
"Fussiyama," a sombre, ragged peak, impresses one
most unfavorably, is well repaying the trouble.

To-Kaido? the main road, leads from E. to W.,

— 86 —

from Tokio, one of the capitals, to Kioto the
other.

It is surprising to find an almost tropical vegetation
in Japan, considering the northern latitude of this
country, almost everywhere Palmtrees, Bamboo,
Cryptomeria Japonica, Glycinse cinensis or Wistaria,
Thujopsis dolabrata, Retinispora, the family of the Ro-
saceas and Coniferes to be found.

The cultivation of dwarf-trees and plants, especially
of the Padocarpus, is carried on in a grand and unsur
passed style and the export of Coniferes is very impor
tant.

The shooting or killing of birds within a circuit of
10 Ri, or 30 English miles from the residence of the
Mikado, is strictly prohibited.

Japan, or Zipangu, the sunrise kingdom, is an em
pire composed of islands lying east of Asia, and is sup
posed to have been founded 660 A. C. Area, 148,-
456 square miles. Population, 36,700,118. The pop
ulation is divided into classes, as follows: Imperial
family, 39 5 Kwazokii, or nobles, 3,204; Shizoku, or
knights, 1,931,825; common people, 34,765,051.

The government is an absolute monarchy. The
title of the sovereign is Supreme Lord, or Emperor
(Mikado). Agriculture is followed to a great extent.
The chief agricultural products are rice, wheat and
beans. The principal manufactures are silk and cotton
goods, Japanned ware, porcelain and bronze. The
value of the exports, 1883, was $35,609,000; of im
ports, $28,548,000.

— 87 —

A law went into effect in 1874, by which the gov
ernment gives nine bushels of rice annually to each
person over seventy or under fifteen years of age un
able to work, and to foundlings until they reach the age
of thirteen.

Latest reports place the number of paupers at 10,-
050, and expenditures at $88,975.

School attendance is compulsory. There are 30,-
275 schools in the empire, of which 71 are normal, 98
are technical, and 2 are universities 5 also, a military
college and military school, with 1,200 students.
Latest reports give 82,213 teachers and 2,703,343 pu
pils. School age from 6 to 14. Public libraries, 21.
Shintoism is the ancient religious faith ; but Buddhism
is the religion of nearly all the common people. The
first railroad in the empire was opened June, 1875; it
extended from Hiogo to Osaka, 25 miles. At the end of
June, 1884, there were 236 miles of railway in the empire.

After a brief stay in Yokohama, I took passage on
a steamer of the English Oriental and Occidental
Steamship Company and started for another division ot
the globe, " America."

After a two weeks very agreeable sea voyage I ar
rived in the San Francisco bay on the evening of the
9th of November.

Already from a distance, San Francisco, amphithe-
atrically situated on the inner slope of a peninsula and
on and at the base of high hills, is visible.

San Francisco, the chief city of California and com
mercial metropolis of the Pacific coast, is separated

— 88 —

from the ocean by the above mentioned peninsula,
which is 30 miles long and 6 miles across the city, at
the northern end of which San Francisco stands, in lat.
37° 46' N. and long. 122° 46' W.

The greater part of the peninsula is hilly. In the
K E. corner of the city is Telegraph Hill, 294 ft. high ;
in the S. E. corner Rincon Hill, 120 ft. high 5 and on
the W. side Russian Hill, 360 ft. high. The densely
populated quarters are in the amphitheatre formed by
the three hills.

The city is regularly laid out, the streets are broad
and there are many handsome buildings.

The history of San Francisco is interesting on
account of the rapid growth of the place. The first
house was built in 1835, when the village was called
Yerba Buena (Spanish "good herb7'), so-named from
a medicinal plant growing in abundance in the vicinity.
In 1847 this was changed to San Francisco, and in
1848, the year that gold was first discovered in Cali
fornia by the white settlers, the population had increased
to 1,000. The influx from the East then commenced,
and in December, 1850, the population was about
25,000. According to the census of 1880 it amounted
to 233,956, and it is now estimated as containing more
than 300,000 population. The city was incorporated
in 1850, and in 1851 and 1856, in consequence of bad
municipal government and corrupt administration of
the criminal laws, the people organized Vigilance Com
mittees, and summarily executed several criminals and
banished others.

This rough but wholesome discipline had its effect,
and the city is now one of the most orderly in the
country.

The commerce of San Francisco is very large, the
chief articles of export being the precious metals,
breadstuffs, wines, wool and fruits ; and of import,
lumber, coal, coffee, tea, rice and sugar.

The manufactures are important, including woolen
and silk mills, and manufactories of watches, carriages,
boots, furniture, candles, acids, wire-work, castings of
iron and brass and silver ware.

The City Hall, in process of erection, will be a fine
structure.

The U. S. Branch Mint contains the finest machin
ery, to be believed unapprochable in perfection and
efficiency.

The Merchants' Exchange is one of the most costly
and spacious buildings in the city. The Palace Hotel
is a vast and ornate building, 9 stories high, and
erected at a cost of $3,250,000.

Another palatial structure is the Baldwin Hotel.
The Mercantile Library contains 50,000 volumes.

The finest and largest church edifice on the Pacific
coast is that of St. Ignatius Church and College (Roman
Catholic) j the finest interior is that of St. Patrick's
(Roman Catholic). The First Unitarian and Trinity
churches are remarkably fine architectures, and the
Jewish Synagogue of Emanu-El is a large, elegant and
substantial structure, with two lofty towers and a richly
decorated interior.

— 90 —

The University of California, near San Francisco,
is the most important educational institution. The city
also contains two Medical Colleges, an excellent School
of Design, and three Academies.

Among the charitable institutions, the principal are
the U. S. Marine Hospital, St. Mary's Roman Catholic,
the City New Hospital, the State Woman's Hospital,
the Protestant Orphan Asylum, the Almshouse, the
Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, the State Asylum for
the Deaf, Dumb and Blind, near Oakland, and the
Alameda Park Asylum for the Insane, on the Encinal,
Alameda.

The Golden Gate Park comprises 1,043 acres. One
of the features of the Park is a magnificent conserva
tory, in which, at the proper season, the only specimen
of the Victoria Regia Lily in America can be seen; the
building is modeled after the Royal Conservatories of
Kew, England.

Laurel Hill Cemetry is a very beautiful burial-ground,
with many fine monuments. In the vicinity is a sin
gular, conically-shaped mountain, which rises up
singly and alone to a considerable height above the
surrounding tolerably level country. The great feature
is Lone Mountain, with its unrivalled outlook, embrac
ing views of the city, bay, ocean, Mount Diablo and
the Coast Range.

There are about 40,000 Chinese in San Francisco,
and the u Chinese Quarter" is worth a visit, especially
the two theatres, in which the entire audience, even
the women, who have a compartment to themselves,

— 91 —

are found either smoking tobacco or opium, whilst the
performance is carried on amidst the beating of gongs,
the clashing of cymbals and other hideous kinds of
noise. A visit to the opium cellars and gambling
houses, and to the temples — open at all times — and in
which joss-sticks smoke in front of the favorite Gods,
will repay the curious traveler.

Of great interest is the Cliff House, in the vicinity
of San Francisco, a low rambling building, set on the
edge of some cliffs rising sharply from the ocean. The
Seal Kock, close by, where the seals are basking in
the sun or wriggle over the rocks, barking so noisily,
is a beautiful sight.

Northward lies the Golden Gate, the beautiful
entrance to San Francisco Bay. In front is the vast
Pacific Ocean, on whose distant horizon, on a clear day,
the peaks of the Farallone Islands are visible.

In the Southwestern part of the city is the old mis
sion of San Francisco, Mission Dolores, it is an adobe
building of the old Spanish style, built in 1778.

My next excursion was to the Yosemite Valley, and
en route to it, to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees.

The Grove is part of a grant made by Congress to
be set apart for u public use, resort and recreation" for
ever. The area covered by the grant is 2 miles square
and embraces 2 distinct groves which are about % mile
apart. The Upper Grove contains 365 trees, of which
154 are over 15 ft. in diameter. The largest tree in
the Grove is the Grissly Giant (Lower Grove) which is
still 94 ft. in circumference and 31 ft. in diameter,

— 92 —

though much decreased by burning. The first branch
is nearly 200 ft. from the ground, and is 6 ft. in dia
meter. The remains of a prostrate tree, now nearly
consumed by fire, indicates that it must have reached
a diameter of about 40 ft. and a height of 400 ft. The
trunk is hollow, and will admit the passage of 3 horse
men riding abreast. There are about 125 trees over
40 ft. in circumference.

The Yosemite Valley is situated on the Merced
River in the Southern portion of the county of Mariposa,
about 220 miles from San Francisco. It is on the
Western slope of the Sierra Nevada, midway between
its E. and W. base. The valley is a nearly level area,
about 6 miles in length and from a half to a mile in
width, and almost a mile in perpendicular depth below
the general level of the adjacent region, and inclosed
in frowning granite walls rising with almost unbroken
and perpendicular faces to the dizzy height of from
3000 to 6000 ft.

From the brow of the precipices in several places
spring streams of water, forming cataracts of a beauty
and magnificence surpassing anything known in moun
tain scenery. The valley is almost one vast flower
garden, plants, shrubs and flowers of every hue cover
the ground like a carpet, the eye is dazzled by the
brilliancy of the color, and the air is heavy with the
fragrance of myriads of blossoms. On every side are
seen the beautiful and many colored Manzanita and
Madrone and other beautiful trees.

The Yosemite was discovered in the Spring of 1851

93
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by a party under the command of Captain Boling in
pursuit of a band of predatory Indians, who made it
their stronghold, considering it inaccessible to the
whites. By an act of Congress passed in 1864, the
Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa grove of Big Trees
were granted to the State of California upon the ex
press condition that they shall be kept "for public use,
resort and recreation, inaleniable for all time.'7

The most striking feature of the valley scenery is
"El Capitan," on account of its isolation, its breadth,
its perpendicular sides and its prominence as it projects
like a great rock promontory into the valley.

On the opposite side is the "Bridal Veil Fall,"
where the creek of the same name leaps over a cliff
900 ft. high into the valley below.

The "Sentinel Rock," 3043 ft. high, is one of the
grandest masses of rock in the Yosemite.

The Yosemite Falls are regarded as the most won
derful feature of the scenery. The Fall has a total
height of 2600 ft. which is not all perpendicular; there
is first a vertical leap of 1500 ft., then a series of cas
cades down a descent equal to 626 ft. perpendicular,
and then a final plunge of 400 ft. to the rocks at the
baso of the precipice. No falls in the known world can
be compared with these in height and romantic grand
eur.

The Half Dome is a crest of granite rising to the
height of 4737 ft. above the valley.

The Mirror Lake, Vernon Fall and the Cap of
Liberty are worth visiting, but the Nevada Fall is in

— 94 —

every respect one of the grandest water falls in the
world, in regard to the stupendous scenery by which it
is surrounded, its vertical height and the purity and
volume of the river which it forms.

It is almost impossible to describe all the wonders of
this blessed spot and I will therefore proceed on my
journey to Santa Cruz, one of the two famous Summer
resorts of California." This city is attractively situated
on the N. side of Monterey Bay, and nearby are Aptos
and Soquel, popular sea-side resorts. Opposite Santa
Cruz, at the S. extremity of the Bay, is the historic
city of Monterey. Until 1847 this town was the seat
of government and principal port on the California
coast 5 but since the rise of San Francisco its commerce
and business have dwindled away, and it is now one of
the quietest places in the State. As a health-resort it
has begun to attract attention within the last 4 or 5
years.

In the heart of the Santa Clara Valley — which lies
between the coast and Santa Cruz Mountains, and is
watered by the Coyote and Guadalupe rivers and by
artesian wells, said to be the most fertile in the world —
is the city of San Jose, with a population of 13,000.
The main portion of the city occupies a gently rising
plateau between the Coyote and Guadalupe Rivers, 1-J-
miles apart. The most noteworthy features are: the
Lick Observatory, in course of erection on the summit
of Mount Hamilton, 4,443 feet high, 12 miles from the
city and the Court House, the City Hall, the State
Normal School arid the Roman Catholic College of

— 95 —

Notre Dame. The famous Almaden Quicksilver Mines
are about 14 miles from San Jose.

Santa Clara is a picturesque village with about
4,000 inhabitants and 3 miles from the former city.

Pacific Congress Springs with medicinal waters, re
commended to sufferers with rheumatism, and Napa
City, 46 miles from San Francisco, a thrifty place of
about 4,000 inhabitants, with many beautiful drives in
the vicinity, especially those to Santa liosa and the
famous wine cellars of Sonoma, are romantically
situated.

Calistoga, a pretty town in a valley, encircled by
forest-clad hills and mountains, has numerous mineral
springs in the vicinity.

About 5 miles S. E. of Calistoga is the "Petrified
Forest," one of the great natural wonders of California.
Portions of nearly 100 distinct trees of great size,
scattered over a tract of 3 or 4 miles in extent, have
been found, the largest being 1 1 ft. in diameter at the
base and 60 ft. long. They are supposed to have been
silicified by an eruption of the neighboring Mount
St. Helena, which discharged hot alkaline waters con
taining silica in solution.

The Geyser Spring, situated in Sonoma County in
a lateral gorge of the Napa Valley, called the DeviFs
Canon is near the Pluton River.

The approaches to the Springs are very impressive,
the scenery being finer, according to Bayard Taylor,
than anything in the Lower Alps. A multitude of
springs gush out at the base of the rocks. Hot and

— 96 —

cold springs, boiling springs and quiet springs lie within
a few feet of each other.

They differ also in color, smell and taste. Some are
clear and transparent, others white, yellow or red with
ochre, while still others are of an inky blackness.

Some are sulphurous and fetid in odor, and some
are charged with alum and salt. The surface of the
ground is too hot to walk upon with thin shoes, and is
covered with the minerals deposited by the waters,
among which are sulphur, sulphate of magnesia,
sulphate of aluminum and various salts of iron . They are
recommended in rheumatism, gout and in skin diseases.

Among the health resorts of southern California,
the most frequented is Santa Barbara, lying in a
sheltered nook of the shore of the Pacific with an
extremely equable and mild climate, the mean temper
ature in summer being 69, 58° and in winter 53, 33°.

The society of the place is exceptionally pleasant
and refined. The town, with about 6,000 inhabitants,
contains a Spanish quarter and a Chinese quarter, and
the new American part of the town, especially the
suburbs are handsomely built and tastefully adorned.
Every plot of ground, no matter how small, has its row
of orange trees, its exotics, and its bed of native
perennials. Eoses abound summer and winter. The
Verbena beds are cut down like grass thrice yearly,
and spring up again stronger than ever. Vines of
every sort flourish luxuriantly, Heliotrope climbs 20 ft.
high, Cacti of the rarest and most curious sorts grow
freely, and a little shoot of the Australian blue-gum

— 97 —

(Eucalyptus globulus) becomes in 2 years a shade-
tree 15 or 20 ft. high.

San Diego is another favorite resort, 460 miles S. E.
of San Francisco. The climate is very salubrious, the
thermometer seldom rises to 80°, or sinks to the freez
ing point, the usual mean being 62°.

482 miles from San Francisco lies the largest city
in southern California, Los Angeles, on the W. bank of
the Los Angeles river, a small stream, 30 miles above
its entrance into the Pacific. The city was settled by
Spaniards in 1780, and was called Pueblo de los
Angeles from the excellence of its climate and the
beauty of its surroundings. Its population by the
census of 1880 was 11,311, and the adobe buildings of
which it was originally composed are fast giving way
to larger and more imposing structures. In the N. W.
portion is a hill 60 feet high, commanding a fine view
of the city, which lies in a sheltered valley, bounded
on the W. by low hills that extend from the Santa
Monica mountains, 40 miles distant, and on the E. by
the San Gabriel plateau.

The climate is mild, the nights, however, are chilly.
Along both banks of the river below the city extends a
fertile plain, planted with vineyards and orange-groves,
and there are also large vineyards within the city
limits. Los Angeles is the center of the orange grow
ing business of California, and lemons, olives, and other
tropical fruits are cultivated in the vicinity.

About 60 miles E. of Los Angeles is San Bernardino.
The view of Mount San Bernardino, the loftiest peak of

— 98 —

the Coast Range, is exceedingly grand. San Ber
nardino is reached from Los Angeles by a stage-ride of
10 hours.

The Southern Pacific Railroad, between Los An
geles and Tucson, Arizona, leads through the famous
Colorado Desert, 300 feet below the level of the sea,
with no vegetation but snow-white sand on both sides,
now and then interrupted by lonely Cacti — a very
triste wearysome voyage. After Yuma is reached,
there is a different atmosphere, and one feels greatly
relieved. Yuma is near the junction of the Gila and
Colorado rivers, and is the W. terminus of the Arizona
branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, and has a
population of 2,500.

Tucson, with about 7,000 inhabitants, was, until
recently, the capital of the territory and is an ancient
city, founded in 1560 by Jesuits. It does a large
business in exporting gold dust, wool and hides. Some
sixty miles distant, near Casa Grande, is a remarkable
ruin of an ancient Pueblo city, these interesting re
mains being preserved in a very perfect state, and
extending 2-rr miles by 1|- miles, showing that it must
have had a population in olden times of at least 100,-
000 people.

Prescott, the capital of Arizona, is a small but very
active place, and has an important commerce with
mineral, agricultural and stock raising products.

Arizona was first visited by Spanish explorers as
early as 1526, and is set off from New Mexico and be
came a territory in 1863. Area: 113,020 square

— 99 —

miles j greatest length, 375 miles ; greatest breadth,
340 miles. Country drained by Colorado and Gila,
with their tributaries.

Temperature at Prescott : winter, 34° to 42° 5
summer, 71° to 73°. Kainfall at Fort Defiance, 14 inches.

Southern Pacific crosses from east to west near
southern boundary, and Atlantic and Pacific north of
the central portion, making ready communication with
East and West. Wheat, barley, potatoes, hay and
corn the chief crops. Soil fertile in river bottoms and
among valleys of Middle and Eastern Arizona, corn
planting following wheat or barley harvest, giving two
crops yearly ; oranges and other fruit produce well
where there is water, the principal portion of irrigable
land lies in the valley of the Gila and its northern
branches 5 rich and abundant grasses, together with
the mild climate, make much of the territory well
adapted to stock raising ; valuable timber is on the
mountains and along the streams.

Abundant mineral wealth, which can now be de
veloped with profit, owing to completion of railways j
nearly all mountain ranges contain gold, silver, copper
and lead ; the gold production in 1882 was $1,065,000 ;
silver, $7,500,000.

The Territory ranks second in silver. Superior
quality of lime found near Prescott and Tucson; beds
of gypsum in San Pedro valley j remarkable deposits
of pure, transparent salt near Callville.

Population 40,440, including 155 Colored, 1,630
Chinese and 3,493 Indians.

— 100 —

School population, 10,283; school age, 0-21.

From Arizona I traveled directly to El Paso in
Texas, staying there only a very short time. The
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe E.R. connects here in its
own depot with the Mexican Central R.R. The popula
tion of El Paso is about 1,500 and the city is growing
very rapidly ; a large retail and wholesale trade is done
here, and its superior railroad facilities give El Paso
merchants many advantages. Street cars run across
the Rio Grande to the old Mexican town of Paso del Norte.

El Paso del Norte is built almost entirely of adobe,
and the homes of its 6,000 people are scattered along a
narrow, rambling, adobe-walled street running several
miles down the river.

The ride to the city of Chihuahua introduces the
traveler to the wide expanse of that high table-land
which forms the greater portion of the interior of
Mexico, but for variety it also includes a view of the
beautiful valley of the Rio Carmen, with its green
meadows and dark forests, while beyond, on the W.,
lie the Sierra Madre mountains.

Chihuahua, the capital of the state of the same
name, is a beautiful city writh 20,000 population.
The city being the center of a rich mining, agricultural
and stock-growing country has a great deal of wealth
and refinement. Its magnificent cathedral is one of the
most imposing edifices on the continent.

Returned to El Paso from this little and short Mex
ican excursion, I boarded the train for San Antonio in
Texas.

— 101 —

San Antonio is the chief city of western Texas and
has a population of about 22,000, one-third of whom
are of German and one-third of Mexican origin. It is
situated on the San Antonio and San Pedro rivers, and
is divided into three quarters : San Antonio proper, be
tween the two streams ; Alamo, E. of the San Antonio ;
and Chihuahua, W. of the San Pedro. The former is
the business quarter, and has been almost entirely re
built since 1860.

In the north part of the Alamo Plaza is the famous
Fort Alamo, where in March, 1836, a garrison of Tex-
ans, attacked by an overwhelming Mexican force, per
ished to a man rather than yield. Missions San Jose,
San Juan, and Concepcion, built by the Spaniards, who
founded San Antonio in 1714, are interesting objects;
and the market places and street scenes amuse the vis
itor as being so queer and foreign.

Austin was the next place I visited. It is the cap
ital of Texas, has 11,000 inhabitants and is situated on
the N. bank of the Colorado river, 160 miles from its
mouth.

There are many fine buildings in Austin and sev
eral State charitable institutions. An artesian well has
been sunk north of the Capitol, to the depth of 1,300
ft., from which a small stream constantly flows, dis
charging a medicinal, lime-impregnated water.

Houston, the third city of Texas in population and
commerce and the first in manufactures, is situated at
the head of tidewater on Buffalo Bayou, 45 miles above
its mouth in Galveston Bay. By the census of 1880

— 102 —

it had a population of 18,646, and is the center of the
railroad system of the State, with nine diverging rail
ways which bring to it the produce of a rich grazing
and agricultural region. Its manufactures are varied
and extensive. The Bayou is navigable for vessels
drawing 13 ft. of water.

Here also are several beautiful public and private
buildings.

From Houston the Galveston, Houston and Hender
son R. R. runs S. E. in 50 miles to Galveston, the
largest city and commercial metropolis of Texas, situ
ated at the N. E. extremity of Galveston Island, at the
mouth of the bay of the same name. The city is laid
out with wide and straight streets, bordered by numer
ous flower gardens, and contained 35,000 inhabitants
in 1883.

The University of St. Mary (Roman Catholic) and
the Galveston Medical College are flourishing institu
tions. Beside the handsome churches, the public
buildings are beautiful and extensive. The Ursuline
Convent has a female academy connected with it.

The Island of Galveston is about 28 miles long and
1-J to 3^r wide, bordered by a smooth, hard beach, and
most all the streets in the city are lined with white and
red Oleanders. The harbor is the best in the State,
and the commerce of the city is very extensive, the
chief business being the shipment of cotton.

Texas was first settled by the French on the La-
vaca in 1685; admitted 1845; seceded February,
1861; re-admitted 1868.

— 103 —

Area, 265,780 square miles ; extreme length, 825
square miles ; extreme breadth, 740 miles ; coast line,
400 miles.

Temperature at Galveston: winter, 53° to 63°;
summer, 82° to 84°.

Eainfall at Fort Brown, 33 inches. Brownsville,
El Paso, Indianola and Galveston are ports of entry.

Number of farms, 174,184; average value per
acre, clear land, $8.98; woodland, $4.

Cotton most valuable crop.

Ranks first in cattle and cotton; second in sugar,
sheep, mules and horses.

Population 1,591,749, among which, 393,384 Ne
groes, 136 Chinese and 992 Indians.

U. S. Army and paupers excluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 10; school population, 295,-
344; school age, 8-14.

Bound for New Orleans in Louisiana; I arrived in
this latter place in a considerably short time after leav
ing the State of Texas. New Orleans, the chief city and
commercial metropolis of Louisiana, is situated on both
banks of the Mississippi river, 100 miles above its
mouth. The older portion of the city is built within a
great bend of the river, from which circumstance it de
rives its name, Crescent City. It is built on land
gently descending from the river toward a marshy tract
in the rear, and considerably below the level of the
river at high-water mark, which is prevented from
overflowing by a vast embankment of earth, called the
" Levee." This levee is 15 ft. wide and 14 ft. high,

— 104 —

is constructed for a great distance along the river bank,
and forms a beautiful promenade.

New Orleans was settled in 1718, but abandoned
in consequence of overflows, storms and sickness 5 was
settled in 1723, held by the French till 1729, then by
the Spaniards till 1801 ; and by the French again till
1803, when with the province of Louisiana, it was
ceded to the United States. It was incorporated as a
city in 1804. The most memorable events in the his
tory of New Orleans are the rebellion against the ces
sion by France to Spain in 1763, the battle of January
8th, 1815, in which the British were defeated by An
drew Jackson, and the capture of the city by Admiral
Farragut on April 24th, 1862. In 1810, seven years
after its cession to the United States, the population of
New Orleans was 17,243, and according to the census
of 1880 it amounted to 216,140. In the value of its
exports and its entire foreign commerce, New. Orleans
ranks next to New York. Not unfrequently from
1,000 to 1,500 steamers and other vessels from all
parts of the world may be seen lying at the levee.

New Orleans is the chief cotton market of the
world; and besides cotton, it sends abroad sugar, rice,
tobacco, flour and pork in great quantities.

The manufactures of the city are not extensive.

New Orleans is not rich in architecture, but there
are a few noteworthy buildings, chief among these are:
the Custom House, the U. S. Branch Mint, the City
Hall, the Cathedral of St. Louis (Catholic), the Church
of St. John the Baptist, the Jewish Synagogue Temple

— 105 —

Sinai, the St. Paul's, and the First Presbyterian
Church.

The University of Louisiana and the Straight Uni
versity (for colored people exclusively) are of a high
order.

Of charitable institutions New Orleans has an
abundance.

Chief among the pleasure grounds of the city is
Jackson Square, with the equestrian statue of General
Jackson.

The French market is the great " sight " of New
Orleans, and one of the most interesting spots in the
vicinity is Battle-Field, the scene of General Jackson's
great victory over the British, January 8, 1815. A
marble monument will commemorate this victory. A
National Cemetery occupies one of the corners of the
field.

Lake Ponchartrin, 5 miles N. of the city, is famous
for its fish and game. The swamps which lie between
the city and the lake are covered with a thick growth
of cypress and other trees.

Carrollton, in the suburbs, has many fine public
gardens and private residences.

Algiers, opposite New Orleans, has extensive dry-
docks and ship-yards.

An excursion to Baton Rouge, since 1881 capital
of Louisiana, was well worth undertaking.

The road to this place, " The Coast/' as it is
called, is lined with plantations. Every spot suscep
tible of cultivation is transformed into a beautiful

— 106 —

garden, containing specimens of all those choice fruits
and flowers which flourish only in tropical climes.

Baton Eouge has 8,000 inhabitants, and is pleas
antly situated on the last bluff that is seen in descend
ing the Mississippi, and contains several public build
ings.

Proceeding on my excursion, I reached Knoxville,
in Mississippi, a small town, and afterwards Vicksburg,
situated on the Walnut Hills, which extends for about
two miles along the river, rising to the height of 500
feet, and displaying the finest scenery of the lower
Mississippi. It is a well built city of 11,814 inhabit
ants. The view of the city from the water is in the
highest degree picturesque. Vicksburg was founded
in 1836 by a planter named Vick, members of wrhose
family are still living there. As the chief commercial
market on this portion of the river, it has long been a
place of some note, but it is more widely known as the
scene of one of the most obstinate and decisive struggles
of the Civil War. After the loss successively of Co
lumbus, Memphis and New Orleans, the Confederates
made here their last and most desperate stand for the
control of the great river. The place was surrounded
by vast fortifications, the hills crowned with batteries,
and a large army under General Pemberton placed in
it as a garrison. Its capture by General Grant, after
a protracted siege, on the 4th of July, 1863, cut the
Confederacy in twain. Above Vicksburg, at the point
where Sherman made his entrance from the " Valley
of Death," is the largest national cemetery in the

— 107 —

country, containing the remains of nearly 16,000
soldiers.

I extended my exploration to Jackson, the capital
of Mississippi. It is regularly built upon undulating
ground on the W. bank of Pearl Kiver, and has about
6,000 inhabitants.

There are several exceedingly fine State Institu
tions, the State library containing 15,000 volumes.
Jackson was captured by General Grant, on May the
14th, 1863, after a battle with General Johnston, in
which the Confederates were defeated and valuable
property destroyed.

On the road to New Orleans I stopped at Natchez,
built mostly upon a high bluff, 200 feet above the level
of the stream. This place was founded by d'Iberville,
a Frenchman, in 1700, and is replete with historic as
sociations. Here once lived and flourished the noblest
tribe of Indians on the continent, and from that tribe it
takes its name. Their pathetic story is festooned with
the flowers of poetry and romance. Their ceremonies
and creed were not unlike those of the Fire-worship
pers of India. Their priests kept the fire continually
burning upon the altar in their temple of the Sun, and
the tradition is that they got the fire from heaven.
Just before the advent of the white man, it is said, the
fire accidently went out, and that was one reason why
they became disheartened in their struggle with the
pale-faces. The last remnant of the race were still
existing a few years ago in Texas.

Mississippi, or the Bayou State, whose name is of

— 108 —

Indian origin, signifying, " Father of Waters," had its
first permanent settlement at Natchez, 1716 ; admitted,
1817; seceded, 1861; re-admitted, 1870.

Area: 46,810 square miles, extreme length, 332
miles; extreme breadth, 189 miles; mean breadth,
142 miles; gulf frontage, including irregularities and
islands, 287 miles; harbors at: Pascagoula, Biloxi,
Mississippi City and Shieldsborough.

Temperature at Vicksburg: Winter, 47° to 56°;
Summer, 80° to 83°. Rainfall at Natchez, 54 inches.
Number of farms, 101,772. Average value per acre:
clear land, $7.88; woodland, $3.78.

Forest area very large; pine, oak, chestnut, walnut
and magnolia trees grow on uplands and bluffs, and
long-leafed pine on islands and in sandy regions of
the South ; cotton lands mostly in Yazoo and Mississippi
bottoms.

Ranks second in cotton.

Population, inclusive 650,291 Negros, 51 Chinese,
1857 Indians, 1,131,597. Slaves, in 1860, 436,631.

Number of Colleges, 3; school population 444,131,
school age 5 to 21. Returned to New Orleans I began
with the preparation for the statistics of the Creole State.

Louisiana, named in honor of Louis XIV, King of
France, was first permanently settled by French, at New
Orleans in 171 8; admitted 1812; seceded January 1861;
re-admitted June 1868.

Area: 48,720 square miles: greatest length, east
and west, 300 miles; breadth, 240 miles; coast line,
1,256 miles.

— 109 — -

Temperature at New Orleans; Winter, 53° to 61°;
Summer, 81° to 83°. Rainfall 51 inches.

Number of Farms, 48,292. Average value per
acre, cleared land, $14.36; wood land $3.53. 57 per
cent, of laborers engaged in agriculture ; rural income,
per capita, $209.

Ranks first in sugar and molasses. Population,
939,946 including 483,655 Negroes, 489 Chinese and
848 Indians. Slaves in 1860, 331,726.

Sugar-cane first cultivated in the United States, near
New Orleans, 1751 and first Sugar-mill used 1758.

I did not succeed in obtaining data about the school
population.

Having procured my passport for the intended visit
of the West Indies, I took passage for Havana. Key
West was duly reached and a short stay made at this
rather picturesque place. Key West, the second largest
city in Florida, is situated upon an island of the same
name. It is of coral formation and has a shallow soil,
consisting of disintegrated coral, with a slight admix
ture of decayed vegetable matter. There are no
springs and the inhabitants (about 7,000) are dependent
on rain or distilled water. The natural growth is a
dense, stunted chaparral, in which various species of
cactus are a prominent feature. Tropical fruits are
cultivated to some extent, the chief varieties being
cocoanuts, bananas, pineapples, guavas, sapodillas and
a few oranges.

A portion of the population are Cubans and natives
of the Bahama Islands, and this place being the key to

— 110 —

the best entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, is strongly
fortified and has a fine harbor.

Among the principal industries are sponging, turt-
ling, fishing and the manufactures of Cigars. The
principal work of defense is Fort Taylor.

The weather favorable, Havana is reached from
here in about 11 or 12 hours, where the traveler is
subjected to a very rigorous examination on the part
of the Duana (custom officers). The bay of Havana is
extremely beautiful. To the right, the Castle Morro
(the fortification of the bay) is a hilly range with many
forts, towers, bastions and many noteworthy curiosities
among which is the military prison, etc. On the left,
lies the old city of Havana, built almost to the water's
edge. The impression on entering the city at first is
not 'very favorable, but the traveler soon finds himself
in an attractive place, especially when visiting the
public gardens and promenades. The city of Havana
is of a very old date. Most of the public and a great
many private buildings are built in the Moorish style.
The commerce of the city is of colossal dimensions, and
the shipping from here to other West Indian islands
very large. During the winter months Havana is
thronged with visitors, especially Americans, who come
here to escape the northerly winds and inclemency of
the weather, or to restore broken health. The drives
in the vicinity are very beautiful. The old and brilli
ant edifice of the cathedral, with the ornamented in
terior and the precious gems, is worth visiting.

The principal industry is the manufacturing of

— Ill —

cigars and cigarettes. In these factories over 20,000
people find employment.

The Governor's garden, in the suburbs, contains
beautiful specimens of palms and cocoanut trees and
other exotic plants and flowers.

The yellow fever hospital proves to be a very
beneficial institution, since this terrible scourge is rag
ing here almost the whole year through, and the Ob
servatory (meteorological) rather in an unfavorable
condition. On the other side of the Bay is Regla, a
small village, where, generally on Sundays, bull-fights
take place.

The wonderful cave of Matanzas and the lovely
Valley of Yumiri are accessible from the city in twro
and a half hours by rail, also several extensive sugar
plantations.

I did not make any other excursions on the Island
of Cuba, on account of the rather advanced period of
the year and the prevalence of tropical maladies, and
collecting all the possible data of this island I herewith
reproduce the same.

Cuba, a Spanish colony in the West Indies, has an
area of 43,220 square miles, and a population of 1,521,-
684. 50 per cent, of the inhabitants are blacks and
enfranchised slaves. The greatest length of the island
is 760 miles ; width varies from 20 to 135 miles j coast
line about 2,000 miles. Surface is broken by a moun
tain chain running through the center from east to
west ; average altitude of summit is between 5,000 and
6,000 feet. Pico de Turquino, 7,670 feet, is the high-

— 112 —

est peak. There are over 260 rivers, all valueless for
navigation purposes, except the Cauto. Mineral springs
abound.

But little attention has been paid to the develop
ment of the mineral wealth. Gold was obtained by the
early colonists, but for two centuries comparatively
none has been found. There are extensive copper
mines, and coal is abundant. Copperas and alum have
also been obtained.

Rainfall at Havana : in the wet season, 27.8
inches ; dry season, 12,7 inches. Average tempera
ture : at Havana, 77° j at Santiago de Cuba, 80°.
Yellow fever and earthquakes are frequent.

13 million acres of Cuban territory are uncleared
forests ; 7 million wild and uncultivated. Principal
woods grown and exported are mahogany, rosewood,
Cuban ebony and cedar.

Tobacco and sugar raising principal occupation of
the people.

Many sugar plantations comprise 10,000 acres
each.

Two crops of Indian corn grown per year ; rice, cot
ton, cocoa and indigo also produced 5 most tropical
fruits are abundant. Sugar product averages 520,000
tons per year. Total value of agricultural products
over 90 million dollars. United States receives 80
per cent, of Cuban sugar. No manufactures deserving
mention.

Roman Catholicism is the only religion tolerated.
Education compulsory; school attendants, 34,812.

— 113 —

The government is administered by a Captain Gen
eral, appointed by the Spanish crown.

The island is now represented in the Spanish Cor
tes, Madrid.

Thirty-six hours ^after leaving Havana, the first
Mexican port (the proper seaport of the old capital of
Yucatan), Progreso, is reached. Twenty-two miles
distant from the latter is Merida, the capital of the
State of Yucatan, a beautiful and quaint old city of
about 55,000 inhabitants. The ride from Progreso
to the capital is very interesting, leading through a
laguna with brilliant aquatic and tropical plants and
admirably fine scenery. The city and all the sur
rounding country abound in numerous picturesque
ruins of great antiquity. Sixty-nine miles from the
city are the celebrated ruins of Uxmal, and at seventy-
five miles distant the famous cave of Sahachao, in the
village of Tekox. The climate of Merida is very
healthy, and deer shooting found in its neighborhood.

From Progreso the steamer proceeds to Frontera,
remaining there but a few hours to transfer passengers,
the mail and cargo, and then continues the route to
Vera Cruz, about 200 miles from Frontera.

Approaching Vera Cruz, the Peak of Orizaba, cov
ered with snow, is seen at a distance of 50 to 70 miles.

The old and historic city of Vera Cruz contains
about 16,000 inhabitants, and is the commercial me
tropolis of Mexico.

In all commercial and social circles in this city,
Spanish, English, German and French are freely spoken.

— 114 —

There are many old churches and chapels, monas
teries and convents in Yera Cruz, and the tolling of
church bells often deafening.

The commercial establishments are massive, fine
structures, and the " Calle de la Indcpendencia" a
beautiful, long street, traversing the city. The bay of
Vera Cruz is almost of an inkish hue. The gloomy
looking fortification of the harbor, Fort Ullao; is of a
very old date, and its subterranean, or rather sub-
aquarian, prisons are, no doubt, remnants of Spanish
inquisitory history. The partially rocky hills of the
fort extend to a great length.

The Great Mexican Railway connects Vera Cruz
with the City of Mexico, a distance of 260 miles.

This road has been justly considered one of the
most wonderful engineering enterprises ever accom
plished. Its construction occupied ten years, at a cost
of $27,000,000. A great part of the road extends over
the Sierra Nevada mountains, reaching at its highest
point of elevation, Boca del Monte, 8,310 feet. The
railroad trip is not only not tedious, though it takes
about 18 hours to make it, but wonderfully grand.
During one part of the trip the train rises 4,700 feet in
a distance of 25 miles.

The scenery cannot be imagined, as the country
through which it passes presents scenes of unparalleled
grandeur and beauty, and on the journey every variety
of climate is experienced, passing from the tropical
climate of Vera Cruz and the cold winds from the snow
peaks of the mountains, to the ever spring-like temper-

_ 115 __

ature of the City of Mexico, where s#d<Jen changes are
unknown, the thermometer seldom, if ever, varying
'from 00° and 70° during the entire year. -

This perfect spring-like climate makes it especially
adapted to invalids. As the train advances over mag
nificent bridges and viaducts that span deep ravines
and beautiful valleys, or plunges through tunnels and
skirts the mountain side in great curves, it presents
views of the grandest and most picturesque scenery
of the world.

The principal cities on the road are Cordoba, a
town of about 10,000 inhabitants, noted for its coffee
plantations, where are located the principal workshops
on the road.

In passing Orizaba the scene is beyond description,
as the train curves around the Peak of Orizaba, which
is 15,800 ft. high, covered with snow and ice. This
peak supplies the City of Mexico and Vera Cruz with
ice.

In the vicinity of Vera Cruz is the famous resort
and rendez-vous of the elite, Medelin named after the
great conqueror's birthplace.

I arrived in the evening in the City of Mexico and
was greatly surprised to find the old home of Monte-
zuma's brilliantly lighted by electricity.

Early the next morning I paid the Representative
of the German Empire in Mexico, Mr. von Wecker-
Gottcr, my visit and to this gentleman as well as to the
German Consul, Mr. Kossidowsky, I am greatly indebted
for all the favors and kindnesses bestowed on me.

— 116 —

The Minister von Wecker-Gotter was leaving
Mexico a short time.after my arrival, and before starting,
kindly accompanied me on my excursion from the
City of Mexico to Orizaba. From this latter place I
visited Atoyae, 29 miles distant, with an exceedingly
rich u Flora" and where I made valuable collections.

In Cordoba I had the pleasure to form the ac
quaintance of the famous botanist, Fink, and over
different detours, for instance, Huatusco, I proceeded
to Mirador.

Furnished with recommendations to the Governor
of Vera Cruz-Llave by the kindness of the Secretary
of the Interior, the Governor Senor Castillo received
me heartily in Orizaba. In Mirador I visited the ex
tensive Hacienda of Senor Sartorius, a German.

Though only a very short time in the City of Mexico,
I intended to explore the Republic in different directions
and then return to the city, to stay there for some time.

I commenced with Guadalupe, with the eld, note
worthy church of uNuestra Senora de Guadalupe,"
San Juan Teotihuacan, Toluca, the capital of the
State of Mexico, with 13,000 inhabitants, Cuantitlan
and the historic City of Queretaro, which was the
scene of the downfall and execution of the ill-fated
Emperor Maximilian in 1867.

The city has 50,000 population and contains many
important woolen mills, and is chiefly noticeable for its
numerous ecclesiastical and religious structures, among
the latter being the Franciscan Monastery, with its
noble gardens and grounds.

— 117 —

Not far from this place and nearer from the City of
Mexico is Polatitlan and Tula, on the banks of the river
of the same name, famous as the ancient capital of the
Toltecs.

At a more distant excursion, I visited Guadalajara,
the capital of the State of Jalisco, with 93,875 in
habitants, a very important city, and Guanajuato with
rich silver mines in its vicinity. Not far from Lagos
there are also very productive mines.

Guanajuato is the capital of the State of Guanajuato,
has a population of 73,500 and important cotton
factories. In one of these latter is the greatest water-
wheel in the world. There are also rich mines of
silver in its neighborhood.

To Colima, the capital of the State of Colima, I
started from San Marcos and was greatly pleased to
witness the eruption of the volcano Colima, then active.

Once more in the City of Mexico, I enjoyed the
valuable acquaintance of the well-known botanist
Herera and intended to remain in the Metropolis, to
recuperate from the wearysome travels, etc.

This ancient and interesting capital has a population
of over 300,000, and was a scat of art, science and
commerce long before the Spanish conquerers reached
the shores of the New World. It is situated in the
centre of the great valley of Mexico, which measures
45 miles long and 31 miles wide. Its elevation above
the sea is 7,420 ft., which gives it a climate of remark
able uniformity, the range of the thermometer being
from 50° to 70° F. The rainy season begins early in

— 118 —

June and continues until September, showers occurring
usually in the afternoons and nights.

The city is built on a part of the old bed of Lake
Texcoco, and tradition gives it a more romantic origin
than it ascribes to the founding of Rome. Science and
art have done much to make it a beautiful city, and
there seems to be a disposition on the part of the people
and the government to make their nation's capital com
pare favorably with the capitals of other countries. The
city is encircled by walls and entered by gates. The
residences are mostly of stone, 1 or 2 stories high, and
built around court-yards. The public edifices are
numerous and substantial.

Chief among the objects of interest is the Cathedral,
500 ft. in length, by 420 ft. in breadth, the largest
ecclesiastical edifice in the western hemisphere. It is
of mixed Gothic and Indian architecture, and is on the
site of the chief temple of the Aztecs. The walls are
gorgeously decorated, and the high -altar is a marvel of
magnificence. The dress on the statue of the Virgin
is incrusted with gems, the diamonds alone being worth
$3,000,000, it is claimed. The cathedral is on one side
of the Grand Plaza, the other sides being occupied by
the National Palace, comprising the government offices,
mint and prison, the National Museum, in which the
great Aztec Block of carved granite is shown, upon
which were sacrificed, it is said, 10,000 persons in one
year, and the Market Place. The Academy of Arts and
Mining, the University of Mexico, the Public Library,
containing 105,000 volumes, and the National Theatre,

— 119 —

as well as numerous convents and churches are well
worth visiting. The Government's Pawnbroker shop is
a very useful and noteworthy institution.

Objects of great interest are found in the Botanical
garden and the 2 aqueducts. The city is noted indust
rially for its manufacture of gold and silver lace, and
of silversmiths' work.

Riding horse-back is one of the great amusements,
and a ride along the canal, or over the hills to any of
the adjacent villages is found very interesting.

Music is found in all the parks every afternoon and
3 times in the week also in the evenings.

Besides the many places of special note in the city,
there are several interesting points within 2 or 3 miles
distance.

At a distance of 2 miles is the old historic Castle oi
Chapultepec, which has, at different times, been the
palatial residence of the Emperors Iturbide and Maxi
milian. The grand view from the tower of this old
castle is unexcelled. The castle is surrounded by a
dense park of ancient and immense trees, all draped in
heavy moss. One mile from Chapultepec is Tacubaya,
where are located some palatial country seats.

Other excursions were made to the volcano of Popo-
catapetl, 17,800 feet high, which is always covered
with snow, and which produces large amounts of very
fine sulphur ; also to the extensive silver mines of Real
del Monte and to the cities of Puebla and Jalapa, the
former, the capital of the State of Jalapa, with 78,000
inhabitants, numerous fine church and convent edifices

— 120 —

and fortifications and the ancient Pyramid in its
vicinity.

Passing Meca-Meca on the journey to Morelia, the
capital of Michoacan with 25,000 inhabitants and some
commerce, the sacred mountain of the Aztecs comes in
view.

During my stay in the city of Mexico I was also favored
with the kindness of the Minister Senor Romero Rubio
of the Cabinet of President Gonzales, having previously
been introduced to the then Ex-President of Mexico,
Senor Porfirio Diaz, by the late Ex-President of the
United States, General Grant, at a banquet given in
honor of these two gentlemen by the Mayor of the city
of New Orleans.

My last trip to the coast was performed from
Michoacan to Manzanillo, where I procured passage on
one of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamers
for San Fransisco.

The Mexican Republic forms the southwestern
boundary of the United States and has an area of 743,948
square miles, northern frontier, 1,400 miles, southern
frontier, 345 miles; sea coast, 6,086 miles. Number
of States, 27; Federal District, 1; Territories, 2;
Population about 11,000,000. The chief exports are:
Coffee, fruit, Brazil wood, silver ore, cattle hides and
silver and gold bullion and silver coin.

The prominent agricultural products are: Cotton,
Pulque (the juice of the Agave Magay, an Aloes), the
national beverage of the Mexicans, Sugar, Wheat and
Corn.

— 121 —

The mountains contain precious metals, but little
attention is paid to the exploration of the bowels of the
earth.

Other statistics I could not obtain.

I arrived in San Francisco just in time to witness
the splendid procession of the North American Knights
of Templars, who were assembled there in convention.

Here I received the much welcomed invitation to
join the historic " Henry Villard" party en route for
the far u Northwest.'"7

I omit to specify the details of this journey, since
they had been minutely described by almost all the
leading newspapers on the continent, and continue to
relate my experiences in the distant Northwest in the
usual way. After a 60 hours sea voyage, I arrived in
Portland, Oregon, staying there only a very short time
and, with many of the invited guests, boarded the train
of the new constructed Northern Pacific Railroad, for
Deer Lodge, not far from Garrison, Montana, to witness
the formal opening of this extensive line and to return
to Portland, where the festivities took their brilliant
course.

Portland is the commercial metropolis of the Pacific
Northwest, and is situated on the Wilamette river, 12
miles above its confluence with the Columbia. Popu
lation, 40,000.

The city is handsome and has many fine public
and private buildings.

There are many manufacturing establishments, and
from every direction in the Pacific Northwest, railroads

— 122 —

lead to Portland, making the city the grand terminus
of a system which will completely develop the entire
region. It lies in the heart of a great producing coun
try, which has no other outlet, and for which it must
serve as a receiver and distributor of exports and im
ports.

On my extravaganzas I visited Dalles, the second
important city in Oregon, though only 4,000 inhabit
ants containing, a very lively place, with many manu
factures. The water works are worth visiting.

Salem, the capital of the State, with only 3,000
population, is surrounded by a fertile prairie and situ
ated on the Willamette river.

The Willamette University, the State institutions
for the blind, the deaf and dumb, and the State Pen
itentiary are here located.

Tacoma, situated on Commencement Bay (Puget
Sound, Washington Territory), has many fine build
ings, public and private, and is the center of large
trade and manufacturing interests, as well as of an im
portant mining country.

This place is the N. terminus of the Northern
Pacific Railroad on Puget Sound, as well as of the
Cascade Division leading to valuable coal fields.
Pacific mail steamships come up to the wharves.

Washington Territory is traversed by the Cascade
and Coast Mountains, some of the peaks very high.
The highest among these is the Mount Ranier, 14,444
feet above the level of the sea, and belonging to the
Cascade Mountains.

— 123 —

Seattle on the Puget Sound, situated on Elliot
Bay, is a very busy place, and is the seat of a uni
versity.

Port Townsend, W. of Townsend Bay, is the Port
of entry of the Puget Sound custom district.

After visiting Victoria, the capital of British Co
lumbia, situated in the southeastern part of Vancouver
Island, on Victoria Harbor, immediately off the Strait
of San Juan de Fuca, with 7,500 inhabitants, a large
number of extensive mercantile houses, manufacturing
establishments, several educational arid religious insti
tutions, and a garrison of British soldiers, I also pro
ceeded to Esquimault, 3 miles from Victoria, where
the headquarters of the English Pacific Squadron is,
and where there is usually a fleet of from 3 to 5 ships,
thus concluding my journeys in the far Northwest.

In Portland, where I was very well received, and
where several compatriots of distinction had honored
me with their acquaintance, I stayed about long enough
to get familiar with the different circumstances con
cerning the State, etc.

Oregon, whose name derives from the Spanish word
signifying, " Wild Thyme/' on account of the abund
ance of the herb found by early explorers, was dis
covered by Captain Gray, of Boston, 1792. Fur
Company's trading post at Astoria, 1811 ; organized
as a Territory, 1848 ; admitted, 1859.

Area: 69,030 square miles ; average length, 360
miles ; breadth, 260 miles ; coast line, 300 miles ;
Columbia river frontage, 300 miles.

— 124 —

Temperature at Portland : winter, 38° to 46° ;
summer, 62° to 68°.

Rainfall at Dalles, 22 inches, and at Fort Hoskins,
67 inches.

Portland, Astoria and Coos Bay are ports of entry.

Number of farms, 16,217 j about 25 million acres
arable land, and same of grazing land ; forest, 1 0
million acres. Average value per acre, cleared land,
$21.71 ; woodland, $4.50.

Wheat the staple ; noted for superiority of its
flour.

Cattle raising ranks second only to agriculture;
wool is of fine quality. Extremely rich in minerals ;
gold found in Jackson, Josephine, Baker and Grant
counties; copper in Josephine, Douglas and Jackson
counties ; iron-ore throughout the State ; coal along
Coast Range. Principal exports are wheat, flour, lum
ber and canned salmon. Over 10 million feet of lum
ber cut annually.

Population, 174,768, including 487 negroes, 9,510
Chinese and 1,694 Indians.

U. S. Army and Chinese excluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 7 ; school population, 65,216 ;
school age, 4-20.

Resuming my journey on the Northern Pacific
R.R., I arrived at Helena, the capital of the Territory of
Montana, with a population of 8,000, where all routes of
transportation converge. The public buildings and
private residences are of a character to attract the eye
of the stranger. The city is the center of important

— 125 —

manufacturing interests, as well as of trade and com
merce. Helena is situated in the very heart of a min
eral region, unsurpassed either in Montana or else
where for the number and richness of its gold and
silver bearing lodes, there being within 25 miles over
3,000 quartz lodes which have been claimed. The
Drum-Lummon mine has recently been sold for 1J
million dollars. Besides the gold and silver lodes,
veins of galena, copper and iron are found in great
numbers. Among the attractions of Helena are the
noted Hot Springs, situated in a romantic glen, 4 miles
W. of the town. The temperature of the water varies
from 110° to 190° F. Eighteen miles N. of Helena is
the great mountain-gate through which the waters of
the Missouri plunge between walls 300 ft. wride and
1,000 ft. high. There are many cataracts, cascades,
etc., around Helena, and it is almost impossible to de
scribe them.

Revisiting Garrison, the northern terminus of the
Utah and Northern Branch of the Union Pacific Rail
road, thence passing through the Deer Lodge Valley,
which spreads for a distance of 60 miles and a width
of from 5 to 10 miles, and where there are found lofty
peaks, beautiful mountain lakes, glittering cascades,
mineral springs, and the Great Geyser Cone, which
gives name to the river and valley, the road leads to
Deer Lodge, a small place, with 1,500 inhabitants, 11
miles south from Garrison, and Butte City, 52 miles S.
E. from Deer Lodge, with 9,000 inhabitants, both im
portant mining centers on the Utah and Northern Railroad.

— 126 —

Missoula, a small but enterprising town, near the
junction of the Hell Gate and Bitter Root rivers, has a
noble outlook from the broad, high plateau. Bitter
Root Valley is very picturesque, and the military post
of Fort Missoula is 4 miles S. Following the Jocko
river, the road traverses the Flathead Reservation.
Here is Flathead Lake, wherein the Pend d'Oreille
river takes its rise and winds for hundreds of miles
through deep gorges and beautiful valleys, before dis
charging its waters into Lake Pend d'Oreille. About
40 miles from Flathead Lake, near St. Ignatius's Mis
sion, are the Two Sisters cascades, of great beauty,
which leap down from opposite walls of a great amphi
theater, scooped out of the mountains, a sheer fall of
2,000 ft. They unite after their descent, and pass on
as a single stream. The railroad now follows the
charming valley of Clark's Fork of the Columbia
river.

Heron is at the junction of the Idaho and Rocky
Mountain Division, and there are railroad shops at this
point. The road skirts Clark's Fork of the Columbia
till it reaches the large opening in the river 45 miles
long and from 3 to 15 miles in width, known as Lake
Pend d'Oreille, whose beauty has made it notable. At
Sand Point the road crosses one end of the lake.

Rathdrum, in Idaho, is a small town, which has re
cently come into notice as the main point of approach
to the Coeur d'Alene mines in the Coeur d'Alene moun
tains. Some extraordinarily rich " Finds" are said to
have been made.

— 127 —

Other excursions in the Territory brought me to
Lewiston, Mount Idaho, Farmington and Louisville,
small places with nothing of interest, and from here I
returned to Butte City, where I expected to get all in
formation regarding this Territory.

Idaho had already a white population previous to
1850, mainly trappers, prospectors and missionaries ;
the permanent settlement hegan with the discovery of
gold in 1860 ; organized as a Territory, 1863.

Area : 84,800 square miles, length in W., 485
miles, and on Wyoming boundary, 140 miles ; width,
45 miles in N. and nearly 300 miles in S. Drainage
mainly by Salmon and Snake rivers and their tribu
taries.

Temperature at Boise City : winter, 30° to 40° ;
summer, 68° to 75°.

Florence and Silver City are flourishing mining
towns.

Extreme north well timbered and much fertile
land ; extreme southeast populated almost entirely by
Mormons, chiefly farmers.

Cash value per acre of corn in 1883, $18; wheat,
$13.77; rye, $11.79; oats, $21.31; barley, $21.30;
potatoes, $73.44 ; hay, $10.40.

Most of the gold is found in Idaho, Boise and Al-
turas Counties. Silver in Owyhee County, some of
the mines being very rich. Coal in the vicinity of
Boise City.

Manufactures, chiefly production of flour and lum
ber and smelting of ores.

— 128 —

Population, 32,610, inclusive 53 colored, 3,379
Chinese, and 165 Indians.

School population, 9,650 ; school age, 5 to 21.

Starting per Utah Northern Railroad, Ogden, in
the Territory of Utah, was reached. This is a flour
ishing city of 6,000 inhabitants, and situated on a high
mountain environed plateau. It is remarkably well
built, and contains many fine buildings, among which
is the Mormon Tabernacle.

Ogden is the junction between the Union Pacific
and Central Pacific Railways, and of the Utah Cen
tral R. R., which extends to Salt Lake City and the
Utah and Northern Division of the Union Pacific R. R.
The machine and repair shops of the Central Pacific
R. R. are located here.

Its streets are broad, with running streams of water
in nearly all of them.

The country between Ogden and Salt Lake City is
thickly settled, several Mormon villages have to be
passed, with nothing particularly characteristic, except
the co-operative stores, with an open eye and the
legend, u Holiness to the Lord," printed over the door
ways.

Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah Territory, is
situated at the W. base of a spur of the Wahsatch
Mountains, about 12 miles from the S. E. extremity of
the Great Salt Lake. It lies in a great valley, ex
tending close up to the base of the mountains 5 the gray
and rugged mountain peaks, covered with perpetual
snow, rising in the distance. The streets of the city

— 129 —

are 128 feet wide. Shade trees and ditches filled with
running water line both sides of every street. The
dwellings and business structures are built principally
of sun-dried bricks (adobe), but the newly built are of a
modern pattern. The Great Tabernacle, of wood, ex
cept the 46 sandstone pillars supporting the immense
dome-like roof, is oval in shape, inside and out, and
will seat 15,000 persons, its organ is one of the
largest in America.

The Temple, E. of the Tabernacle, in the course
©f erection when I was there, was estimated to cost 10
millions of dollars. Brigham's Block, enclosed by a
high stone wall, contains the Tithing House, the Bee
hive House and the Lion House, the Assembly Eooms,
the office of the Mormon newspaper, and various other
offices, shops, dwellings, etc. Here was the residence
of the late Brigham Young, and 18 or 20 of his wives
lived in the Beehive and the Lion House. The hand
some house, nearly opposite, supposed to belong to the
prophet's favorite wife, and formerly known as
Amelia Palace, is now known as the Gardo House.

In the Museum may be seen specimen ores from
the mines, Indian relics, various products of Mormon
industry and other curiosos.

Among the educational institutions are the Desert
University, Hammond Hall, Collegiate Institute and
St. Mary's Academy.

Fort Douglas, 2 miles E. of the city, overlooking
the same, is garrisoned by a full regiment.

The Great Salt Lake is reached via Utah & Nevada

9

— 130 —

R. K. to Lake Point, and is one of the greatest natural
curiosities of the West. It is 75 miles long and about
30 broad, is 4,200 feet above the sea, and contains six
islands, of which Church Island is the largest. Several
rivers flow into it, but it has no outlet. The water is
shallow, the depth in many extensive parts being not
more than two or three feet. Its water is transparent,
but exceedingly salty and very buoyant 5 a man may
float in it at full length upon his back, having his head
and neck, his legs to the knee, and both arms to the
elbow entirely out of the water. If he assumes a sitting
posture, with the arms extended, his shoulders will rise
above the water. Swimming, however, is difficult
from the tendency of the lower extremeties to rise
above the surface, and the brine is so strong that it
cannot be swallowed without danger of strangulation,
while a particle of it in the eye causes intense pain. A
bath in it is refreshing and invigorating, though the
body requires to be washed afterward in fresh
water.

The Ontario mine, near Park City, and the Horn
silver mine near Frisco, with smelting works of great
dimensions, are noteworthy.

In the following, the reproductions of authentic
statistic tables are given.

Utah was settled by Mormons under the leader
ship of Brigham Young, at Salt Lake, 1847, and the
Territorial government formed in 1850.

Area, 84,900 square miles ; average length, 350
miles 5 breadth, 260 miles. Largest rivers; Grand and

— 131 —

Green, together with the Colorado, which they unite to
form.

Temperature at Salt Lake City: winter, 29° to 40°;
summer, 69° to 77°; rainfall, 24 inches.

Number of farms, 9,452 ; land under cultivation, over
400,000 acres; value of farm products, $10,000,000.
Valleys of the Cache, Salt Lake, Jordan, Sevier and
Rio Virgin are irrigable, and produce fine crops of ce
reals and vegetables, Annual income from stock rais
ing, about $2,000,000, though grazing interest not so
important as in neighboring States and Territories.

Gold, copper and silver found in Wahsatch Moun
tains, the metal found being mostly silver. Gold pro
duction in 1882, $190,000; silver, $6,800,000.

Principal source of coal supply, in the valley of
Weber river.

Ranks third in silver.

Population, including 232 negroes, 501 Chinese and
807 Indians, 143,963.

School population, 43,303; school age 6 to 18;
number of colleges, 1.

Twenty-five miles from Ogden is Corinne, the
largest Gentile town in Utah, having a large trade
with the mining regions of eastern Idaho and Montana.
Beyond Corinne the train winds among the Promontory
Mountains, and skirts the N. shore of the Great Salt
Lake, while the Mormon city lies near the S. end of it.
Promontory Point is interesting as the spot where the
two companies building the Pacific Railroad joined
their tracks on May 10, 1869.

— 132 —

The last tie was made of California laurel trimmed
with silver, and the last four spikes were of solid silver
and gold. Beyond this the road enters upon an ex
tended plateau, about 60 miles long and of the same
width, known as the Great American Desert. Its
whole surface is covered with a sapless weed five or
six inches high, and never grows any green thing that
could sustain animal life. The only living things found
upon it are lizards and jackass-rabbits, and the only
landscape feature is dry, brown and bare moun
tains. The earth is alkaline and fine, and is whirled
up by the least wind in blinding clouds of dust. Rivers
disappear in it, and it yields no other vegetation than
the pallid Artemesia, or sage-brush.

At Humboldt Wells, farther on the road, are 30
springs in a low basin, some of which have been
sounded to a depth of 1,700 feet without revealing a
bottom, and it is supposed that the whole series form
the outlets of a subterranean lake.

In a distance of 57 miles is Elko, with the State
University of the State of Nevada, founded in 1875,
and 1,200 inhabitants. Several important mining dis
tricts are tributary to Elko, and secure it a large trade.
Winnemucca is another prosperous town with a large
mining trade, 141 miles from Elko, and Humboldt,
still farther on, affords a grateful if momemtary relief
to the now wearied eye of the traveler. The desert
extends from Humboldt in every direction, a pallid,
lifeless waste, that gives emphasis to the word desola
tion; mountains break the level, and from the foot

— 133 —

to the crest they are devoid of vegetation or other
color than a maroon or leaden gray; the earth is loose
and sandy ; but here at Humboldt, irrigation compelled
the soil to yield flowers, grass, fruit and shrubbery.

At Wadsworth the ascent of the Sierra Nevada is
begun. The wearying sight of plains covered with
alkali and sage-brush is exchanged for picturesque
views of mountain slopes adorned with branching pine
trees, and diversified with foaming torrents.

The ascent soon becomes so steep that two locomo
tives are required to draw the train. At short inter
vals there are strong wooden snow-sheds, erected to
guard the line against destruction by snow-slides. These
sheds, which are very much like tunnels, interrupt the
view of some of the most romantic scenery on the
line.

Reno, a busy town of 4,000 inhabitants, is situated
on the Truckee river about five miles from the base of
the Sierra. It has an immense trade with the mining
districts, is in the heart of an agricultural and grazing
valley, and contains the grounds of the State Agricul
tural Society, a Young ladies' seminary and several
factories.

From Reno the Virginia and Truckee R. R. runs
to Carson and Virginia City, in the great Nevada min
ing region. Carson is the capital of Nevada and is
a thriving city of 4,500 inhabitants, containing the
Capitol, the U. S. Mint and fine residences.

In the court-yard of the prison are shown footprints
of human beings, birds and other animals on the sand-

— 134 —

stones (supposed to belong to the geological tertiary
period).

From Carson 15 miles distant, and reached by
stage, is the lovely Lake Tahoe, 35 miles long and 15
miles wide, 6,000 ft. above the sea, and surrounded by
snow-capped mountain peaks, with marvellously clear
water, whose depth has been sounded to 1,600 ft.

21 miles beyond Carson is Virginia City, com
pletely environed by mountains, and containing 3,000
inhabitants, about one-fifth of whom are usually under
ground. What is more surprising to the stranger is
the proportions of the constant rushing crowd on the
principal thoroughfare, and the cosmopolitan character
of its elements. Piute and Washoe Indians, in pic
turesque rags, Chinamen in blue and black blouses,
brawny Cornishmen, vehement Mexicans and many
other people from far apart countries, mingle and surge
along in the stream. Virginia City stands directly
over the famous Comstock lode, and near by are the
celebrated Big Bonanza mines, said to have been a
few years ago the richest in the world. There are
many more mines in the vicinity.

By stage from the Lake to Tahoe City, across the
Lake, and thence to Truckee, the first important station
in California, perched high up amid the Sierras, is
reached.

Nevada, " The Sage Hen State," whose name
derives from the Spanish, signifying " Snow Covered,"
had its first white settlements in Washoe and Carson
Valleys, 1848; organized as a Territory from Utah,

— 135 —

1861; admitted, 1864. Area, 110,700 square miles;
extreme length, 485 miles, length western boundary,
210 miles; extreme breadth, 310 miles. Humboldt is
the longest river, its valley extending east and west,
determined course of Central Pacific.

Temperature at Winnemucca, winter, 30° to 38°,
summer, 66° to 73°.

Waters of rivers usually fresh and abound in fish.
Number of farms, 1,404, many valleys easily cultivated,
and crop yield good. Mineral resources of enormous
value. Comstock lode, already mentioned, supposed to
be the richest silver mine in the world ; Eureka, one of
the most productive. Amount of gold produced in
1882, $2,000,000; silver, $6,750,000. Eich lead and
copper ores; also zinc, platinum, tin and nickel have
been found. Extensive deposits of borax in Churchill
and Esmeralda counties.

Ranks second in gold and fourth in silver. Popu
lation, 62,266, including 488 Colored, 5,416 Chinese and
2,803 Indians.

Number of Colleges, 1; school population, 10,483;
school age, 6 to 18.

From Truckee, an excursion was made to Donner
Lake, embosomed in the lap of towering hills and to
Summit, situated on the line. Summit is the highest
point on the Central Pacific road, 7,042 ft., and the
scenery is indescribably beautiful and impressive.
From Summit to Sacramento is a distance of 106 miles,
and between these places the descent from that height
to 56 ft. above the level of the sea has to be made.

— 136 —

Cape Horn and Colfax passed, and the train runs
right through to the capital of California, Sacramento,
the third city of the State in size, having a population
of over 23,000, and second in commercial importance.
It is built on an extensive plain on the E. bank of the
Sacramento river, immediately S. of the mouth of the
American river.

The city is very attractive, and of important public
buildings there is only the State Capitol, one of the finest
structures in the United States. The State Library in
the capitol has over 35,000 volumes and the Sacramento
Library about 15,000. The State Agricultural Society
has a commodious and one of the finest race courses in
the world. The Crocker Art Gallery is noteworthy,
and is a present of the wife of Mr. S. B. Crocker.
The through train from here to San Francisco pursues
a very pleasant route, being for the most part through
the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.
Benicia, 57 miles from Sacramento, situated on the N.
side of the Straits of Carquinez, contains the large
depot and machine shops of the Pacific Mail Steamship
Co., the United States Arsenal, and several noted
educational institutions.

The train crosses the Straits on a mammoth ferry
boat, and in 27 miles reaches Oakland, a beautiful city
of 35,000 inhabitants, situated on the E. shore of San
Francisco Bay, nearly opposite San Francisco, of which
it is practically a suburb. Oakland is luxuriantly
shaded, is remarkably well built, and has a delightful
climate, At Berkeley, 4 miles N., is the State Univer-

— 137 —

sity, which is open to both sexes, and whose tuition is
free. At Oakland Point, where the railroad pier of the
Company extends 2J miles into the Bay, the ferry-boat
conveys the traveler to San Francisco, 3 miles distant.

As I intended to return to San Francisco, I only
stayed there' a very short time and procured passage
for Hawai (Sandwich Islands), a regular line of steamers
run between San Francisco and Honolulu. Honolulu,
the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai, is situated on
the island of Oahu, one of the group of the fifteen
islands of which this Kingdom of Oceania consists.

Population, about 7,000, and with the exception of
the botanical garden, laid out by the well known
botanist Hildebrandt, and the Hospital for persons
afflicted with Leprosy, situated in the suburb, Kakuato,
has no other attractive points, but the excursions to the
great volcanos are worth making. On one of these
explorations I ascended the volcano Mauna-loa, erupt
ing only every 5 or 6 years, but having for a neighbor
the Kila-uea, 4,000 ft. high and in constant activity.
The Mauna-loa is one of the highest valcanos.

Within the radius of the Kila-uea are two burning
lakes: the Plali-mau-mau and the New Lake.

The circumference of the crater of this volcano
measures 3^ miles.

Mauna-Kia is an isolated volcano and Hale-Kale,
whose crater has a circumference of 35 miles, is un
doubtedly the greatest crater of any volcano in the
world. This volcano lies on the island of Maui, on
which there is the most extensive sugar-plantation of

— 138 —

the Sandwich Islands, Spreckelville, the property of
the well known Mr. Spreckel from California, and where
I was well received.

As the communication between these islands is
very difficult, I was only able to visit 4 of the inhabited
islands and tried to get every possible information con
cerning them.

My explorations lasted fully two months, and I was
anxious to return to the United States viz. San Fran
cisco.

Hawai, a Kingdom of Oceania, consists of a group
of 15 islands of which 8 are inhabited. The Govern
ment is a limited monarchy.

Hawai is the largest island.

Area of the islands, 6,667 square miles.

At the last census, the population numbered 57,985,
viz., 44,088 Natives, 5,916 Chinese, 4,651 white people,
of whom 1,276 were Americans, 883 English, 272 Ger
mans, 436 Portuguese, 81 French, and half-cast 3,420.

To a great extent the islands are mountainous, and
there are numerous volcanoes, several of which are
active.

The soil is exceedingly fertile and productive.
Chief products, sugar and rice; but coffee, hides, bone,
whale oil and wool -are exported in considerable quan
tities. Value of exports in 1883, $8,121,200; imports,
$5,624,240.

The islands of Hawai and Maui are provided with
telegraphs and have about 32 miles of railway. Al
most every house in Honolulu has its telephone.

— 139 —

There are numerous schools in the islands; the an
nual sum devoted to public instruction is $95,850.
The King is a member of the Church of England; but
all forms of religion are permitted and protected.

Landing in the Bay of San Francisco and resting
myself from the tedious travels in the Sandwich islands,
I proceeded to the State of Missouri, and direct to its
greatest and most important city, St. Louis.

California derives its name from the Spanish word,
signifying, "Hot furnace."

First settlement by Spaniards at San Diego, 1768,
admitted 1850.

Area, 158,360 square miles, the second largest
State; extreme length, 770 miles; extreme breadth,
330 miles ; least breadth, 150 miles; coast line over 700
miles; San Francisco Bay, best harbor on western coast.

Temperature at San Francisco: winter, 50° to
55°, summer, 58° to 69°, Rainfall, Sacramento, 20
inches.

San Francisco, metropolis and only port of entry.
Regular line of steamers to Australia, Panama, Mexico,
China and Japan.

The U. S. Navy Yard is at San Pablo Bay. Num
ber of farms, 35,934, average value per acre, cleared
land, $27.16; woodland, $8.55.

One of the richest agricultural tracts in the Union;
rich soil and favorable climate, often insuring two crops
per year on same field ; wheat the most valuable crop.
Ranks very high as a fruit-growing State; fruits of
temperate climates, the grape region, North.

— 140 —

Fine sheep-raising country, Cashmere goats have
been introduced and are doing well.

Kanks first in barley, grape culture, sheep, gold
and quicksilver.

Population, 864,694; with 6,018 Negroes, 75,132
Chinese, 86 Japanese, and 16,277 Indians.

Indians and Chinese excluded from voting.

School population, 216,330; school age, 5-17.

St. Louis is situated geographically almost in the
centre of the great valley of the Mississippi, or basin of
the continent, on the W. bank of the Mississippi river,
20 miles below the entrance of the Missouri, about 175
miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and 1,170 miles
above New Orleans, in lat. 38° 37' N. and Ion. 90° 15'
W. It is built on three terraces. The corporate
limits extend 11 miles along the river and about 3
miles back from it, embracing an area of nearly 21
square miles.

In 1762 a grant was made by the Governor General
of Louisiana, then a French province, to Pierre Liguest
Laclede and his partners, comprising the "Louisiana
Fur Company" to establish trading-posts on the Missis
sippi; and on February 15, 1764, the principal one
was established where the city now stands, and named
St. Louis. In 1803 all the territory then known as
Louisiana was ceded to the United States. In 1812
that portion lying N. of the 33d degree of latitude was
organized as Missouri Territory. In 1822 St. Louis
was incorporated as a city. The first census was taken
in 1764, and the population was then 120. According

— 141 —

to the Census of 1880 it was 350,522. The commerce
of St. Louis, as the natural commercial entrepot of the
vast Mississippi valley, is immense ; the chief articles
of receipt and shipment being breadstuffs, live-stock,
provisions, cotton, lead (from the Missouri mines), hay,
salt, wool, hides and pelts, lumber, tobacco, and gro
ceries, but the prosperity of the city is chiefly due to
its manufactures.

The city is mostly regularly laid out. Fourth and
Olive streets contain the leading stores for retailing,
and are fashionable promenades. The finest building
in the city is the Court House. The Four Courts with
the famous jail, semicircular in form and so con
structed that all the cells are under the observation of
one single jailer at once ; the New Custom House with
the Post-Office, the Chamber of Commerce, the Equita
ble Life Insurance Building, the U. S. Arsenal, in the
extreme S. of the city and the Masonic Temple, are mag
nificent structures. Of churches, the Cathedral
(Catholic), Christ Church, the First Presbyterian
Church, the Jewish Temple, and the Pilgrim Congre
gational Church are the prominent. The Mercantile
Library numbers 50,000 volumes, and contains paint
ings, coins, statuary and a sculptured slab from the
ruins of Nineveh. The St. Louis University (Jesuit),
is the oldest educational institution in St. Louis.
Washington University embraces all the ranges of uni
versity studies except theological. Beside these, there
are a great many educational institutions, public and
private, and a number of charitable asylums, hospitals

— 142 —

and such like institutions. Adjoining the Tower Grove
Park, embracing 277 acres and beautifully laid out is
Shaw's Garden, owned by Mr. Henry Shaw, who has
opened it to the public and intends it as a gift to the
city. The Garden contains 1 09 acres and is divided
in the " Herbaceous and Flower Garden," the "Fruti-
cetum," and the "Arboretum/' all of miraculous beauty
and grandeur. In the Fair Grounds of the St. Louis
Agricultural and Mechanical Association is one of the
best zoological gardens in America.

The Great St. Louis Bridge across the Mississippi,
is regarded as one of the greatest triumphs of American
engineering. The bridge is built in two stories, passes
over a viaduct of five arches, and the lower roadway
runs into a tunnel, 4,800 ft. long, passing under a
large part of the city. The total cost of bridge and
tunnel was over 10 millions of dollars. It was
designed by James B. Eads, begun in 1869, and com
pleted in 1874.

The City Water- Works, at BisselFs Point, on the
bank of the river, are worth seeing.

Having had the pleasure to meet Professor Potter,
the renowned Geologist, whom I had previously seen in
the Mining Academy of the City of Mexico, my ex
plorations in the most important iron regions, coal
mines and lime-stone quarries of this State and other
adjoining States were greatly facilitated, and to this
gentleman I owe my success in obtaining all the desired
informations, etc.

The next place visited was the "Queen City of the

— 143 —

West/7 Cincinnati, the chief city of Ohio, situated on
the N. bank of the Ohio river, in lat. 39° 6' N. and
Ion. 84° 27' W.

Cincinnati is principally built upon two terraces,
the first 60 and the second 112 ft. above the river.
The central position of Cincinnatti has rendered it one
of the most important commercial places of the West;
but manufactures constitute its chief interest. Iron,
furniture, boots and shoes, beer and whisky, machinery
and steamboats, are leading items in the product; but
pork packing is one of the principal industries.

The finest building in the city is the New U. S.
Government Building, and the Masonic Temple, the
Exposition Buildings with the Music Hall, and the
Springer Music Hall, seating an auditorium of 5,000
persons and containing one of the largest organs in the
world, are worth being visited. The Emery Arcade is
said to be one of the finest and largest, and the Tyler-
Davidson Fountain, surrounded by groups of statuary,
is well worth seeing.

Among the Churches, the Roman Catholic St.
Peter's Cathedral in pure Grecian style, and its altar-
piece "St. Peter Delivered/7 by Murillo, one of the
chief glories of art in America, and the Hebrew Syna
gogue, opposite the Cathedral, as also the St. Paul's
Methodist are the most prominent.

The educational and charitable institutions of
Cincinnati are numerous and important, and of these
the University of Cincinnati, the School of Design, the
Law and Art School, St. Xavier's College (Jesuit), the

— 144 —

Cincinnati Wesleyan and the Union Hebrew College,
the Lane Theological Seminary, the Miami Medical
College and the Medical College of Ohio, one of the
most famous in the West, the Chickering Classical and
Scientific Institute, the Woodward and the Hughes
High School, the Mechanics Institute, with 6,500
volumes, the Cincinnati Hospital and the Longview
Asylum for the Insane, are the most noteworthy.

More than a third of the residents of Cincinnati are
Germans or of German parentage. The greatest part
of them occupy the section of the city N. of the Miami
canal, which they have named "The Rhine."

The Great Arbeiter and Turner Halls are worth
visiting.

The Suspension Bridge over the Ohio, connecting
the city with Covington, Kentucky, is the pride of
Cincinnati. From tower to tower it is 1,057 ft. long;
the entire length is 2,252 ft. and its height over the
water 100 ft.

Well worth visiting are the United Rail Roads
Stock Yards and the Price Hill, the Lookout House,
Mount Auburn from whose summits, crowned by ex
tensive music gardens, splendid views of the city, the
river and the surrounding country are obtained.

Leaving Cincinnati for Louisville, Kentucky, by
rail — the other route is on the river, per steamer — the
city of Newport, connected with Covington by a bridge
over the river Licking, and containing 20,433 inhabi
tants, beautiful gardens and imposing shade-trees, was
first visited, and afterwards Covington.

— 145 —

Covington is a city of 29,720 inhabitants, the largest
after Louisville and substantially a suburb of Cincin
nati, whose business-men have here many costly resid
ences. Except the Free Library, some educational
institutions and the catholic St. Elizabeth Hospital,
there are no other attractions in this place.

Louisville, the chief city of Kentucky, and one of
the most important in the country, is situated at the
Falls of the Ohio, where Beargrass Creek enters that
river. Its site is one of peculiar excellence. The
Falls are quite picturesque and can be seen from the
town.

The first settlement of Louisville was made by 13
families, who accompanied Colonel George Rogers
Clarke on his expedition down the Ohio in 1778. The
town was established in 1780, and called Louisville in
honor of Louis XVI. of France, whose troops were then
aiding the Americans in their struggle for independence.
It was incorporated as a city in 1 828, when its popula
tion was about 10,000. In 1880 it had about 124,000.
The trade of Louisville is immense. It is one of the
largest leaf-tobacco markets in the world, the sales of
this one article amounting to over $5,000,000 annually,
and it is rapidly becoming one of the most important
markets for live-stock in the country. Pork-packing
is extensively carried on, and the sugar curing of hams
is a special feature of the business. The annual pro
duction of iron foots up $5,000,000. Louisville is the
great distributing market for the fine whiskies made in

Kentucky. The manufacture of beer has also become

10

— 146 —

a very important interest. Leather, cement, agricul
tural implements, furniture, and iron pipes for water
and gas mains, are the other leading manufactures.
The city is regularly laid out and has well paved streets.

The Court House, City Hall, the buildings of the
Southern Exposition and some churches and colleges
are of beautiful architectonic structures.

The Public Library, numbering over 35,000 volumes
and connected with a museum and the natural-history
department, containing also the celebrated Troost col
lection of minerals, one of the largest in America, are
worth visiting. Louisville, being the centre of one of
the finest fossiliferous regions in the world, there are
numerous private collections, containing many excellent
specimens elsewhere rare.

The University of Louisville is a flourishing insti
tution, the Kentucky School of Medicine and Hospital
College of Medicine, and the two High Schools, for
males and females, as also the Colored Normal School
are prosperous institutions of learning.

The State Blind School and many other charitable
Homes and Hospitals are in this city.

On Cave Hill Cemetery is the monument of George
D. Prentice, the poet, journalist and politician.

Opposite the W. end of Louisville is the finely-
situated and handsomely-built city of New Albany,
with 16,422 inhabitants and many pretty public and
private buildings.

J effersonville, another flourishing town on the
Indiana shore, lies opposite Louisville, and is connected

— 147 —

with it by the great railroad-bridge across the Ohio,
5,219 ft. long.

Leaving Louisville for the world-wide known
Mammoth Cave, the train passes Bardstown Junction,
Lebanon Junction and Muinfordsville; a pretty village
on the bank of Green River. This neighborhood was the
scene of numerous encounters between Generals Buell
and Bragg in the campaign of 1862. From Cave City
a stage runs to the famous Mammoth Cave. The cave,
\vhich is the largest known, extends about nine miles ;
and it is said that to visit the portions already explored
requires from 150 to 200 miles of travel. This vast
interior contains a succession of marvelous avenues,
chambers, domes, abysses, grottoes, lakes, rivers,
cataracts, etc. Two remarkable species of animal life
are found in the cave, in the form of an eyeless fish
and an eyeless craw-fish, nearly white in color.
Other animals known to exist in the cave are lizzards,
frogs, crickets, rats, bats, etc., besides ordinary fish
and craw-fish washed in from the neighboring Green
River. The atmosphere of the cave is pure and healthful j
the temperature which averages 59°, is about the same
in winter and summer. It is a sheer impossibility to
describe all the curiosities of this wonderful cave.

I did not travel considerably in this State, and had
to collect Statistics, which I here reproduce.

Kentucky, the " Corn Cracker State," whose name
signifies "dark and bloody ground," was the ancient
hunting grounds of the Indians.

Earliest explorations made by John Finley and

— 148 —

others, 1767; Daniel Boone established himself there,
1769; admitted as a State, 1792.

Area, 40,400 square miles; greatest length, 350
miles; greatest breadth, 178 miles; river frontage, 812
miles; navigable waters, 4,000 miles.

Temperature at Louisville : Winter, 34° to 44° ;
summer, 75° to 80°. Rainfall at Springdale, 49
inches.

Frankfort is the capital, and has a population of
6,958. Lexington, the former capital, founded 1776,
16,656.

Louisville and Paducah are ports of entry.

Number of farms, 166,453; average value per
acre, cleared land, $18.86 ; wood land. $12.82.

Ranks high as an agricultural State, has a world
wide reputation for thoroughbred horses and cattle,
and is first in tobacco.

Population, 1,648,690 ind.; 271,451 negroes; 10
Chinese and 50 Indians.

Slaves in 1860, 225,483.

Colleges, 15 : School age, 6-20.

Returning from the Mammoth Cave over the same
road. I resumed my journey to Nashville, in the State
of Tennessee, which I here describe.

Nashville is the capital of Tennessee and the largest
city in the State in point of population (45,000), and is
situated on the S. bank of the Cumberland river, 200
miles above its junction with the Ohio. It is well built
and there are many imposing public and private build
ings, among which deserve mention: the Capitol,

— 149 —

Vanclerbilt University, the Court House, State Peni
tentiary, University of Nashville, Fisk University,
Tennessee Central College, the State institutions for
the Blind and Insane, the latter 6 miles distant, and
several churches.

The Hermitage, the celebrated residence of Andrew
Jackson, is 12 miles E. of Nashville.

In November 1864, the Confederate General Hood,
having lost Atlanta, placed his army in Sherman's rear
and began an invasion of Tennessee.

After severe lighting with General Schofield on
November the 30th he advanced upon Nashville and
shut up General Thomas within its fortifications. For
two weeks little was done on either side. When
Thomas was fully ready, he suddenly sallied out on
Hood, and, in a terrible two day's battle, drove the
Confederates out of their entrenchments into headlong
flight. The Union cavalry pursued them, the infantry
following close behind, and the entire Confederate
Army, except the rear guard, which fought bravely to
the last, was broken into a rabble of demoralized fugi
tives, which at last escaped across the Tennessee.
For the first time in the war an army was destroyed 5
and General Sherman, who had been awaiting in At
lanta the issue of Hood's maneuver, then started on bis
famous march to the sea.

Later on, I returned to this State once more, and
now started for the East, the first place arrived at
being Cleveland, in the State of Ohio.

Cleveland, the second city in size and importance

— 150 —

in Ohio, is situated on the S. shore of Lake Erie, at the
mouth of the Cuyahoga river. The greater portion of
the city stands on a gravelly plain, about 100 ft. above
the lake. The new Breakwater W. of the river's
mouth affords a safe harbor.

The city is tastefully laid out, the abundance of
shade trees, chiefly elms, have given it the title of the
"Forest City." The great stone viaduct which spans
the river valley between the two divisions of the city,
on a level with the plateau, is justly reckoned among
the triumphs of American engineering, it is 3,211 ft.
long and cost over $2,000,000. The population, in
1880, was 160,142. The commerce of the city is very
large, especially with Canada and the mining regions
of the Lake Superior.

The most important manufactures are of iron and
coal-oil 5 in the production of refined petroleum, Cleve
land is the first city in the world. Other important
products are sulphuric-acid, wooden-ware, agricultural
implements, marble and stone, railroad cars and white
lead. Pork-packing is also carried on to some extent.

Euclid Avenue is undoubtedly the handsomest
street of any city in the United States.

There are numerous fine public edifices and ele
gant private residences.

Of the 127 churches in the city, the most note
worthy are St. Paul's, the Old Stone Church, the
Second Presbyterian, the Catholic Cathedral, etc. Of
its educational institutions of which there are many,
I will only mention the Adelbert College, or Western

— 151 —

Reserve University, the Case School of Applied
Science, the Medical Department of the Western Re
serve University, the Medical Department of the Uni
versity of Wooster, the Brooks School and the Public
Library, numbering 40,000 volumes.

The Marine, Charity, and Homoeopathic hospi
tals, the Hebrew Orphan Asylum and the City Infirm
ary are of great importance.

The Water-works of Cleveland near the lake are of
great dimensions and the West-side Reservoir a very
popular resort.

On Lake View Cemetery, containing 300 acres,
lie the remains of the late President James A. Gar-
field. 2^ acres on the highest point of the cemetery
are being prepared for a monument beneath which his
remains are to be placed.

Leaving Cleveland, the train passes the pretty
villages of Berea and Elyria, and in 30 miles
reaches Oberlin, noted as the seat of Oberlin College,
from which no person is excluded on account of sex or
color. This college, founded in 1834, combines man
ual labor with study, inculcates entire social equality
between whites and blacks, and has a prosperous
career.

The next important Station is Toledo, which within
a few years has developed from an inconsiderable vil
lage into a large and rapidly growing city. Its popu
lation numbers 65,000 and its commerce is very large.
Situated on the Maumee river, 4 miles from a broad
and beautiful bay, and 12 miles from Lake Erie, of

— 152 —

which it is regarded as one of the ports, its manufact
ures are numerous and important, including car
factories, iron works, locomotive shops, furniture
factories, flour mills and breweries.

The commerce consists chiefly of the handling of
grain. It has large and handsome public buildings,
wide streets, several neat parks and costly water-works.
Toledo is the converging point of 19 railroad
lines.

Ohio, the "Buckeye State," has its name from the
Indian, signifying " Beautiful River." First perman
ent settlement at Marietta, 1788 5 admitted as a State,
1802.

Area, 41,060 square miles, greatest length east and
west, 225 miles ; extreme breadth, 200 miles ; Ohio
river frontage, 430 miles 5 lake frontage, 230 miles.

Temperature at Cleveland: winter, 27° to 38°;
summer, 68° to 73°. At Cincinnati : winter, 34° to
45°; summer, 74° to 79°. Rainfall at Cleveland, 38
inches.

Columbus, the capital of the State, is a great rail
road center, and has 51,647 inhabitants (estimated
now as over 75,000). There are many State institu
tions, several high-schools, medical colleges, and other
Academies, etc., in Columbus, and the State Capitol
considered to be one of the finest in the Union.

Near Dayton, in this State, is the greatest Soldiers
Home in America, with numerous public and private
buildings, a theater, and other places of resort for the
invalid soldiers.

— 153 —

Number of farms, 247,189, of which 199,562 are
occupied by owners ; average value per acre, cleared
land, $47.53,- woodland, $41.37.

Dairy products are a source of great revenue.
Ranks first in agricultural implements and wool; sec
ond in petroleum, iron and steel.

Population, 3,198,062, incl. 79,900 colored, 109
Chinese and 130 Indians.

Number of Colleges, 35; school population, 1,081,-
321 ; school age, 6-21.

My next aim was the wonder of the world, "The
Falls of Niagara/7 and boarding a train for Buffalo, in
the State of New York, I arrived there soon, and began
with the usually first visited Goat Island, reached by a
bridge 360 ft. long, the bridge itself being an object of
interest, from its apparently dangerous position.

The view of the Rapids from the bridge is one of
the most impressive features of the Niagara scenery.

The river descends 52 ft. in a distance of f of a
mile by this inextricable turmoil of waters. Below the
bridge is "Chapin's Island." A short walk leads to
"Luna Island," a huge rock-mass between the Center
Fall and the American Fall, the width of this latter
being over 1,100 feet, and the precipice over which it
plunges is 164 ft. high. "Cave of the Winds" is a
spacious recess back of the Centre Fall. The "Horse
shoe Fall" is unsurpassingly grand and majestic. The
mighty cataract here measures 2,200 ft. across, with a
perpendicular plunge of 158 ft.

At the other end of Goat Island a series of beauti-

— 154 —

ful bridges leads to the "Three Sisters," as ,3 small
islets, lying in the Rapids, are called.

These last named are rugged masses of rock,
covered with a profuse and tangled vegetation. Among
the many attractive points, which to describe, it is
almost an impossibility, "Grand Island " above "Navy
Island," deserves mention as the spot on which, in
1820, Major Mordecai M. Noah founded "Ararat," a
city of refuge for the Jews, in the vain hope of as-
scmblig there all the Hebrew population of the world.

The New Suspension Bridge, connecting with
Canada, is 1,268 ft. from tower to tower, and 190 ft.
above the river. The view of the falls arid of the
gorge below, from the bridge is admirably pretty.
"Table Rock," formerly an overhanging platform, is
still called so, though fallen long ago over the preci
pice.

The "Whirlpool," below the Falls, is occasioned by
a sharp bend in the river which is here contracted to
a width of 220 ft.

The appropriateness of the name Niagara (Indian :
"Thunder of waters"), is very evident here.

The Falls of Niagara are situated on the Niagara
River, about 22 miles from Lake Erie and 14 miles
from Lake Ontario. The river is the channel by
which all the waters of the 4 great upper lakes flow
toward the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, and has a total
descent of 333 ft., leaving Lake Ontario still 231 ft.
above the sea.

With feelings of admiration and astonishment I left

— 155 —

this lovely and impressive spot — the thunder of its tur
moil waters re-echoing in my ears — and returned to the
city of Buffalo, the "Queen City of the Lakes."

Third in size of the cities in the State of New York,
it is situated at the mouth of Buffalo Creek and head
of Niagara River, at the E. end of Lake Erie. Its
harbor is the largest and finest on the lake and it is the
terminus of the Erie Canal, the New York Central,
the Erie, the New York, West Shore and Buffalo, the
Delaware, Lackawana and Western, and eight other
railroads.

The city has a water-front of about 5 miles, half
upon the lake and half upon Niagara River. Its com
merce is very large, its position at the foot of the great
chain of lakes makes it the entrepot for a large part of
the traffic between the East and the great Northwest.
The population, 1880, was 155,134. The lake navi
gation of the city is the most important element of
business; the manufactures are also large, the chiefest
being of iron, tin, brass, and copper-ware. Malting
and brewing, for which the climate is very favorable,
are extremely carried on.

Buffalo was first settled in 1801 ; it became a mili
tary post during the war of 1812, and was burned by a
force of Indians and British in 1814 ; and it was in
corporated as a city in 1832. Since the completion of
the Erie Canal in 1825 its growth has been very
rapid.

Buffalo is handsomely built, the prominent public
buildings are: the Custom House and Post Office, the

— 156 —

State Arsenal, the State Armory, the Erie County
Penitentiary, the Court House and the City Hall.

The most notable churches are: the Episcopal, St.
Paul's Cathedral, and the Catholic St. Joseph's Cathe
dral.

The leading educational institutions include: the
Medical College of the University of Buffalo, the Jesuit
Canisius College and several female academies.

The Buffalo Historical Society, with a large library
and cabinets, and the Society of Natural Sciences,
with a very valuable collection of minerals, and a good
botanical and conchological cabinet, and a complete set
of Professor Ward's fossils casts, are located in the same
building.

The Grosvenor Library numbers 12,000 volumes,
and of the many charitable institutions, the State In
sane Asylum is one of the largest in the Union.

Of great curiosity are also the extensive canal
basins, the piers, the grain-elevators and some of the
iron works.

The International Bridge crosses the Niagara river
to the Canadian village of Fort Erie.

By way of Suspension Bridge I continued my
travels in the State of New York, and visited Rochester,
with 89,366 population, situated on both sides of the
Genesee river, 7 miles from its mouth in Lake On
tario. Soon after it enters the city the river makes a
rapid descent, there being a perpendicular fall of 96
ft. near the center, and two others of 25 ft. near the
northern limit. It is to the prodigious water-power

— 157 —

thus afforded that much of the prosperity of the city is
attributable, and it contains several of the largest flour
mills in the country. Other important industries are
the production of clothing, boots and shoes, engines
and boilers, agricultural implements, trees and garden
and flower seeds. The nurseries are worth paying a
visit.

There are a number of exceedingly fine buildings
in Eochester, as for instance, the City Hall, Powers
Buildings, the University of Rochester with the finest
geological cabinets in the Union, collected by Professor
Henry A. Ward, and Warner's New Building. There
also are several good educational academies and chari
table institutions.

The Genesee Falls have several falls, the first of
which is 96 ft. high, the second 25 ft. and the third
84ft.

Charlotte, 7 miles distant, on Lake Ontario, is the
port of Rochester.

The route from Rochester to Syracuse, not far from
where the Aqueduct, 848 ft. long and with a canal-
width of 45 ft., carries the Erie Canal over the Genesee
river, has nothing noteworthy. Syracuse has 68,192
inhabitants and very important Salt springs, the
most extensive in America. Of the leading High-
schools, the University of Syracuse (Methodist) is most
prominent. Manufactures and trade in this city are
also of a grand scale.

Rome is a thriving city of 12,045 population, and
the large railroad-shops and rolling-mills are located here.

— 158 —

Rome is one of the best lumber-markets in the State,
and there is excellent water power, the city being
situated at the Junction of the Erie and Black River
Canals.

The last important town en route for Albany is
Utica, situated on the S. bank of the Mohawk. The
city has 33,913 inhabitants, extensive and varied
manufactures, and is the center of an important rail
way and canal system. Here is the State Lunatic
Asylum and several spacious and pretty buildings.

From Utica the train runs for some time parallel
with the Lake Erie, who traverses the State of New
York from Buffalo to Albany, and afterwards through
the picturesque Mohawk Valley, and alights in the
capital of the State of New York, the beautiful city of
Albany.

The capital of New York State is finely situated on
the W. bank of the Hudson, at the head of the sloop
navigation and near the head of the tide water. It was
founded by the Dutch as a trading post in 1614, and
next to Jamestown in Virginia, was the earliest Euro
pean settlement in the original 13 States. Its present
name was given it in 1664, in honor of the Duke of
York and Albany, afterward James II. It was
chartered in 1686, and made the State capital in 1798,
since which time its population has increased from
5,349 in 1800, to 90,903 in 1880, estimated now,
to over 100,000.

Albany has a large commerce, as the entrepot of
the great Erie canal from the W. and the Champlain

— 159 —

canal from the N., and as the center to which several
important railways converge.

The New Capitol, begun in 1871, now nearly
finished, is the largest and most splendid edifice in
America, the Federal Capitol excepted. Of granite,
in Renaissance style and standing on the most elevated
ground in the city, with a tower, 320 ft. high, it is
visible for miles around. The structure is 300 ft. N.
and S. by 400 ft. E. and W.

The State Library in the Capitol numbers 150,000
volumes, and contains a collection of curiosities and
historical relics.

The State Geological and Agrictural Hall has
valuable collections in Natural History, Geology and
Agriculture and many curious relics. The Medical
College is a prosperous institution with an extensive
Museum, and the Law School of the University of
Albany is of great importance. The Dudley Observa
tory, founded and endowed by Mrs. Blandina Dudley,
stands on Observatory Hill, near the limits of the city
and has a valuable special library, and some fine ap
paratus.

The educational institutions of Albany are numer
ous and efficient, its hospitals and charities note
worthy.

Of the 50 churches in the city, the Cathedral of the
Immaculate Conception, seating 4,000 persons, is the
pre-eminent.

6 miles above Albany, on the E. bank of the Hud
son, and at the head of river navigation is Troy,

— 160 —

with 56,747 inhabitants, containing extensive manu
factures of iron, steel, cars, cotton and woolen-goods,
hosiery and shoes, and with a large commerce.

The Athenaeum, St. Joseph's Theological Seminary,
the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, this latter, one of
the leading schools in America for instruction in civil
engineering, are excellent schools of learning.

In West Troy is the great Watervliet Arsenal, with
40 buildings in a park of 105 Acres.

From Albany to New York the trip was made down
the Hudson river, the " Rhine" of America,

The beauty and grandeur of the stream; the
picturesque sceneries on its banks 5 the wooded
mountains and the hills crowned with pretty villas, and
thousand other attractions, make this majestic river to
one of the finest in the world. The greater variety,
and its superior breadth as well as its stately flow to
the sea make it somewhat equal if not superior to the
Rhine.

I will only mention a few of the many lovely spots
on both sides of the river as coming down from the
place of my departure.

The scenery from Albany to Hudson, though pleas
ing, is somewhat monotonous until Catskill Landing is
reached, where there is a little more variety. At
Rhinebeck-Landing, opposite Kingston and Rondout, is
the Beekman House, 200 years old and the best speci
men of an old Dutch Homestead. From New Paltz-
Landing, 14 miles distant, I visited Lake Mohonk, a
delightful summer resort, situated near the summit of

— 161 —

Sky-Top, one of the loftiest of the Shawangunk
Mountains, 1,243 ft. above the river. The largest city
between Albany and New York, Poughkeepsie, is
reached by ferry from New Paltz-Landing. Built on
an elevated plain, nearly 200 ft. above the river, it is
backed by high hills. This city has several fine
churches, numerous and elegant residences, and no less
than eight important educational institutions, including
Vassar College, one of the leading female colleges of
the world. The buildings of this college, with the main
building, 500 ft. in length, are modeled after the Tuile-
ries. North of the city are the vast buildings of the
Hudson River State Hospital for the Insane.

Opposite Fishkill-Landing is the handsome built
city of Newburg, containing 18,000 inhabitants. Here
the Highlands begin. Newburg was the theatre of
many interesting events during the Revolution, and
Washington's Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion
S. of the city, is still preserved as a museum of his
torical relics. On the W. bank of the river is the
picturesque village of Cornwall-Landing. Between the
latter place and West Point, in the Highlands, respect
ively Breakneck and Bacon Hill, 1,187 and 1,685 ft.
in height, the mountains are among the most command
ing features of the river scenery, and from the summit
of the latter New York City may be seen.

West Point is one of the most attractive places on
the river. It is the seat of the National Military
Academy. Of the most noteworthy buildings, the

Cadets' Barracks, the Academy, the Mess Hall and the

11

— 162 —

Library, containing 26,000 volumes, deserve mention.
The Observatory is in the Library Building. The
Chapel and the Museum of Ordnance and Trophies are
interesting.

From Fort Putnam, on Mount Independence, 600 ft.
above the river, fine views are obtained.

The scenery to where the Highlands come to an
end is of striking beauty.

Passing the Buttermilk Falls and arriving at lona
Island in whose neighborhood is Sugar-loaf Mountain,
at the foot of which is Beverly House, where Benedict
Arnold was breakfasting when news came to him of
Andre's arrrest, and whence he fled to the British vessel
Vulture, anchored in the stream below, CaldwelPs-
Landing is reached by ferry. This place is memorable
for the costly but futile search after the treasures which
the famous pirate, Captain Kidd, was supposed to have
secreted at the bottom of the river here.

Peekskill, opposite CaldwelPs-Landiiig, is one of the
prettiest towns on the Hudson. Beyond, the former
remains of a small Revolutionary fort are seen, and
Verplanks Point is notable as the spot where Henry
Hudson's ship, the "Half Moon," first came to anchor
after leaving Yonkers.

At Croton Point, a prominent head-land, projecting
into the river, the Croton Kiver enters the Hudson, and
6 miles down this stream is Croton Lake, which supplies
the Metropolis with water. The lake is formed by a
dam 250 ft. long, 40 ft. high and 70 ft. thick, and the
water is conveyed to New York by the famous Croton

— 163 —

Aqueduct, which is over 40 miles long, with 16 tunnels
and 24 bridges. Sing Sing occupies an elevated slope,
and makes a fine appearance from the river. The
State Prison is located here, and its vast stone buildings
are conspicuous objects from the steamer. Many fine
villas crown the heights above and around the village,
looking down upon the Hudson, which at this point
attains its greatest breadth.

Nyack, a popular suburban place is opposite Tarry-
town, which has many scenic and historic attractions.

By an inscription in the village the spot is marked
where Andre was arrested, and Tarry town witnessed
many fights between guerillas during the Revolution.

It takes its chief interest, however, from its associ
ation with Irving's life and writings. Here is the
church which he attended, and of which he was warden
at the time of his death j here he is buried, and near
by are the scenes of some of his happiest fancies, in
cluding the immortal Sleepy Hollow and the bridge
rendered classic by the legend of Ichabod Crane.

26 miles distant from New York is the village of
Irvington, named in honor of Washington Irving, whose
unique little cottage at Sunnyside is close by, upon the
margin of the river, but hidden from the traveler's view
by the dense growth of the surrounding trees and
shrubbery. The cottage is a quaint and picturesque
structure, and the E. front is embowered in ivy, the
earlier slips of which were given to Irving by Sir
Walter Scott, at Abbotsford, and planted by Irving
himself. In the vicinity of Irvington are many fine

— 164 —

residences, the most conspicuous of which is the Pauld-
ing Manor, situated on a high Promontory, and said to
be the finest specimen of the Tudor architecture in the
United States.

Tappan Zee, 10 miles long and 4 miles wide at the
widest part, is a widening out of the river, beginning
at Piermont. Tappan, an old town, is interesting as
one of Washington's headquarters during the Revolu
tion and as the place where the unfortunate Major
Andre was imprisoned and executed, October the 2d,
1780.

Yonkers, an ancient settlement, was the home of
the once famous Phillipse family, of which was Mary
Phillipse, Washington's first love.

The desolate and lonely appearance of the cliffs, the
so-called Palisades looming up: the distance of New
York City is only short.

These Palisades, a series of grand precipices, rising
in some places to the height of 300 ft., stretch along
the river-bank in unbroken line, for more than 20
miles. The rock is trap, columnar in formation, and
the summit thickly wooded.

Passing Fort Washington and affording fine views
of the Jersey shore, the northern suburbs, the harbor
and the city, the steamer lands in the metropolis, thus
ending the brilliant trip.

After a brief stay in New York, making this city
my headquarters, I started direct for Chicago, the
principal city of Illinois, the metropolis of the West,
and the greatest railway centre on the continent. It is

— 165 —

situated on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the
mouth of the Chicago River, in lat. about 41° 50' N.,
and Ion. 10° 33' W. from Washington. The city
stands on the dividing-ridge between the basins of the
Mississippi and St. Lawrence, and is surrounded by a
prairie stretching several hundred miles S. and W.

The first white visitors to the site of Chicago were
Joliet and Marquette, who arrived in August, 1673.
The first permanent settlement was made in 1804,
during which year Fort Dearborn was built by the
U. S. Government. At the close of 1830, Chicago
contained 12 houses and 3 country residences, with a
population, composed of whites, half-breeds and blacks,
of about 100. It was organized in 1 833 and incorpor
ated as a city in 1837. At the first census taken, on
July 1st, 1837, the entire population was found to be,
4,170, at the census in 1880, 503,304.

The present population is estimated to exceed 600,-
000.

Chicago was visited by two conflagrations of enor
mous dimensions, but one year after the first fire, 1871,
a large part of the burned districts had been rebuilt,
and the second fire in 1874, though it destroyed 18
blocks in the heart of the city, left no marks after a
few months.

Chicago ranks next in commmercial importance to
New York among the cities of the Union. As early as
1854, it had become the greatest primary depot for grain
in the world 5 and since then it has also become the great
est grain, live-stock, and lumber market in the world.

— 166 —

The manufactures of Chicago are extensive and impor
tant, employing about 150,000 persons, and including
iron and steel works, factories of car-wheels, cars, and
other railroad appliances, flour mills, furniture-factor
ies, manufactories of boots and shoes, and tanneries.
They number about 4,000, the annual product being
over 300 millions of dollars worth.

There are 25 elevators of enormous storage capacity
and 26 railways enter the city.

Most of the public buildings were burned down in
the great fire, and have not been replaced as rapidly as
the business structures. The New City Hall and
County Court House, nearly completed, is estimated to
$5,000,000. The Custom House and Post Office, the
Board of Trade Building and the Exposition Building-
are among the finest in the city.

There are over 300 churches in Chicago, of which
are the most prominent: Unity Church, Twelfth Street
Church and the Roman Catholic Cathedral.

The Public Library contains 92,000 volumes. The
Academy of Sciences established in 1857, has lost a
valuable collection of 38,000 specimens in the fire.
The Art Institute, the University of Chicago, Dearborn
Observatory, the Baptist Theological Seminary, the St.
Ignatius College, the Presbyterian Theological Seminary,
Rush Medical College, the College of Physicians and
Surgeons, Woman's Medical College, Chicago Medical
College and the Ilahnemann College, are the most
famous literary and educational institutions.

Among the many hospital and charitable establish-

— 167 —

ments, the following deserve special mention: Cook
County Hospital, Mercy Hospital, Michael Reese Hos
pital, maintained by the United Hebrew Relief Associ
ation, the Newsboys' Home, Foundlings Home, Home
for the Friendless, Protestant Orphan Asylum, St.
Joseph's (male) and St. Mary's (female) Orphan Asylums
and the Old People's Home.

The U. S. Marine Hospital is one of the largest and
costliest in the United States.

The Public Parks of Chicago are nicely laid out
and the Lincoln Park contains the Zoological Garden.

The Water Works of Chicago are worth being
inspected.

The intercourse between the three divisions of the
city is effected by 35 bridges, which span the river at
intervals of two squares, and swing on central pivots to
admit the passage of vessels, These bridges, however,
are a serious impediment to navigation, as well as to
vehicles and pedestrians 5 and in order to obviate the
inconvenience, a tunnel was constructed under the
South Branch. It is 1,608 ft. long, with a descent of
45 ft. Another similar tunnel, whose total length is
1,890 ft. was constructed under the main river in L870,
connecting the North and South Division.

The Union Stock Yards where the vast live-stock
trade of the city is transacted, comprise 345 acres, of
which 146 are in pens and have 32 miles of drainage,
8 miles of streets and alleys, 2,300 gates. They have
capacity for 25,000 cattle, 100,000 hogs, 22,000 sheep,
and 1,200 horses. Connected therewith are the Pack-

— 168 —

Ing and Slaughtering houses, whence are shipped
annually ten million pounds of hog product alone.

The Grain Elevators are a very interesting feature,
all situated on the banks of the river.

About 16 miles S. of Chicago is the unique city of
Pullman. It is named after the inventor of the Pullman
Sleeping Cars. From 5,000 to 6,000 workers are em
ployed in the shops, where the cars are manufactured.
Adjoining Pullman are S. Chicago and Grand Crossing,
which contain rolling-mills, iron and steel-mills, and
many of the larger manufactures.

The distance between Chicago and Milwaukee, in
Wisconsin, is 85 miles.

The road via Milwaukee Division of the Chicago and
Northwestern R. R. runs along the W. shore of Lake
Michigan, through a rich farming, well-culivated and
populous country. A few miles beyond Wauke-
gan the train crosses the boundary line and enters
Wisconsin, soon reaching Kenosha, with 8,000 inhabi
tants, important manufactures and a large trade in the
products of the surrounding country. 11 miles from
here is the academic city of Racine, the second city of
the State in population and commerce. Situated on the
mouth of Root river, its harbor is one of the best on
the lake, its commerce very large and the varied and
extensive manufactures are the chief source of the
city's wealth. Racine College (Episcopal), is one of
the most prominent in the United States.

Milwaukee, the commercial capital of Wisconsin,
and next to Chiccgo the largest city in the Northwest,

— 169 —

is situated on the W. shore of the Lake Michigan, at
the mouth of Milwaukee river.

This river flows through the city, and with the
Menomonee, with which it forms a junction, divides it
into 3 nearly equal districts.

The climate is peculiarly bracing and healthful and
the atmosphere remarkably clear and pure. The city
is regularly laid out.

Milwaukee was settled in 1835, and incorporated
as a city in 1846. Its population in 1880, was 115,-
578. The Germans constitute fully one half of the en
tire population.

The commerce of Milwaukee is very large, wheat
and flour being the most important articles. There are
six grand grain slevators and the flour mills are on an
immense scale. Butter, wool, hides and lumber are
also important articles of trade. Its manufactures are
extensive and embrace the highly esteemed and widely
exported Lager-bier, pig-iron and iron castings, leather,
machinery, agricultural implements, steam-boilers, car-
wheels, furniture, and tobacco and cigars. Pork-
packing is extensively carried on.

Most all streets are well shaded. The County
Court House and the LI. 8. Custom House with the
Post-Office are exceedingly fine structures.

The Northwestern National Asylum, for disabled
soldiers, is an immense building. The Academy of
Music, with seats for 2,300 persons, owned by the
German Musical Society, and the Opera-House are
handsome edifices.

— 170 —

The Grain-Elevator of the Chicago, Milwaukee and
St. Paul and the Chicago and Northwestern Railways,
is v ell worth a visit, since it is considered to be the
largest in the Union.

The Rolling-mill at Bay View, outside the city
limits, is one of the most extensive in the West.

Two of the flour-mills in Milwaukee manufacture
daily 1,200, respectively 1,000 barrels of flour.

Leaving Milwaukee, via La Crosse and St. Paul
Division of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R.,
the first city on this route, Portage City, an important
place, with 5,000 inhabitants, large manufactures, and
containing a High-school and the workshops of the R.
R. Company, was reached. I passed Tomah and
Sparta, on the La Crosse river, two flourishing villages
in a fertile valley and arrived at La Crosse, on the E.
bank of the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Black and
La Crosse rivers. It is finely situated on a level
prairie, has many handsome buildings, a High-school,
flourishing graded schools and an extensive trade in
lumber, contains 9 saw-mills, 3 foundries and machine-
shops, a large factory of saddlery and harness
and various other establishments. Population,
15,000.

On the same line lies the small, but prosperous city
of Winona. The First State Normal School is located
here, as is the High-School. Winona is one of the
most important lumber-distributing points on the Up
per Mississippi, and as a grain-shipping-point it ranks
among the first in the Northwest. Manufacturing is

— 171 —

also extensively carried on in this little city with
10,208 inhabitants.

Madison was my next stopping-point. This capi
tal of tha State has about 12,000 inhabitants and is a
flourishing commercial centre. It lies in the very
heart of the " Four-Lake Country/' so called from a
chain of beautiful lakes which extend over a distance
of 16 miles, and discharge their surplus waters into
Yahara or Catfish River, a tributary of Rock River.
They are named: Mendota, or Fourth Lake, Monona,
or Third Lake, and Lakes Wanbesa and Kegonsa.
The city lies between Lakes Mendota and Monona. It
contains the State Capitol, the Court House and
Jail, the Post Office and U. S. Court House, the
University of Wisconsin, the Washburn University,
(with a telescope whose glass is second only to that
in the National Observatory), the State Hospital
for the Insane, the Wisconsin Historical Society,
(with an interesting collection of .relics and a valu
able library of 110,000 volumes), and many handsome
churches.

Beyond Madison, the St. Paul train passes many
small places of no interest, until Prairie du Chien, a
town of about 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the E.
bank of the Mississippi, 2 miles above the mouth of the
Wisconsin is reached. This place is in the midst of a
beautiful prairie, 9 miles long, and 1 mile wide, bor
dered on the E. by high bluffs.

It is an important local shipping point and has
varied and important manufactures. The St. John's

— 172 —

College and St. Mary's female institute are under
control of Roman Catholics.

Faribault, one of the most populous and prosperous
interior towns in the State, was the last place in Wis
consin which I visited. In 1853 it was the site of
Alexander Faribault's trading-post. Its population in
1880 was 5,500, and here are the State Asylum for
the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, an Episcopal Academy,
several flour-mills, foundries and saw-mills.

Between Faribault and St. Paul, Minnesota, in
Northfield, are located, Carlton College, (Congrega
tional) and St. Olaf's College, (Lutheran).

The " Badger State," Wisconsin, has its name from
the river, an Indian word signifying u Wildrushing
River." First settled by French at Green Bay, 1669 ;
organized as a Territory, 1836 ; first territorial legis
lature at Belmont, September 1st, 1836; admitted as a
State, 1847.

Area, 56,040 square miles; greatest length, 300
miles; greatest breadth, 260 miles; Mississippi River
navigable throughout south-west boundary; excellent
harbors in- Lake Superior on north, and Lake Michigan
on east.

Port Washington one of the finest natural harbors
in the world.

Temperature at Milwaukee: winter, 19° to 31°;
summer, 63° to 70° ; rainfall, 30 inches.

Population of Eau Claire, 21,668, and of Fond du
Lac, 12,726.

Number of farms, 102,904; average value per acre,

— 173 —

cleared land, $26.27; woodland, $19.55. Wheat most
valuable crop; cultivation of flax increasing; many
acres devoted to culture of cranberries.

Extensive lead mines in Grant, Lafayette and Iowa
counties; native copper in the north, in Crawford and
Iowa counties. Milwaukee clay famous for making
cream-colored brick. Iron ores in Dodge, Sank, Jack
son and Ashland counties.

Ranks second in hops.

Population, inclusive 5,576 Colored and 2,695 In
dians: 1,563,423.

Betters and duelists excluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 7; number of public schools,
6,588; school population, 495,233; school age, 4-20.

St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, with 125,000 in
habitants, is a beautiful city and is situated on both
banks of the Mississippi River.

The streets are well graded and partially paved.
The principal public buildings are the State Capitol,
the U. S. Custom House, containing the Post Office,
and the Court House and City Hall, in progress. The
Grand Opera House has seats for 2,300 persons, and
the Exposition Building is, like the former, a fine place
of amusement. There are 75 churches in the city, 4
public and as many private libraries, those of the His
torical Society and Library Association comprising to
gether about 24,000 volumes. The Academy of
Sciences contains about 126,000 specimens in natural
history. There are three free hospitals, and a Protes
tant and Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum.

— 174 —

Carver's Cave is a great curiosity of nature, con
taining a lake which may be crossed in a boat, and
Fountain Cave, about 2 miles above the city, was ap
parently hollowed out of the rock by a stream which
flows through it. It contains several chambers,, the
largest being 100 ft. long, 25 wide and 20 high.
White Bear Lake and Bald-Eagle Lake are popular
resorts with picturesque sceneries.

Minnehaha Falls, immortalized by Longfellow's
poem, are romantically situated. The commerce of the
city is very extensive.

10 miles above St. Paul, is Minneapolis, on both
sides of the Mississipi, built on a broad esplanade over
looking the famous falls of St. Anthony. The city is
regularly laid out, has wide and straight streets, with
2 rows of trees on each side and many substantial
business blocks and elegant residences. The City
Hall, Court House, Chamber of Commerce, the Lum
ber Exchange and the Minneapolis Exposition are
noticeable structures.

The Athenaeum Library contains 8,000 volumes
and that of the University of Minnesota, 13,000. The
last named and the High-School are important institu
tions, but there are numerous good public and private
schools.

The prosperity of the city is owing to the abund
ant water-power, for manufacturing purposes, from the
Falls of St. Anthony. The fall is 18 ft. perpendicular,
with a rapid descent of 82 ft. within 2 miles. The
rapids above the cataract are finer than the fall itself.

— 175 —

Minneapolis is the center of immense lumber and flour
interests, being the largest flour-manufacturing place in
America. Its population is about 129,000. The value
of the flouring-mill products is estimated at about
$22,000,000 annually.

I extended my explorations in this State as far as
to the boundary-line between the United States and
Canada via St. Paul and Duluth R. R. and visited en
route the city of Duluth.

The commercial importance of this place, which has
about 17,500 inhabitants, derives from its situation at
the extreme west point of the Great Lakes, lying on
the shore of Lake Superior, near the mouth of the St.
Louis river. It is the terminus of 5 rail roads. The city
is well-built and contains many fine public buildings;
its manufactures, especially in lumber, are extensive.

The North Shore of Lake Superior is comparatively
an unknown region. North of Duluth the shore rises
into grand cliffs of greenstone and porphyr, 800 to
1,000 ft. in height. The Palisades, 58 miles from
Duluth, are a remarkable rock formation, presenting
vertical columns from 60 to 100 ft. high, and from 1 to
6 ft. in diameter.

Near by, Baptism river comes dashing down to the
lake in a series of wild water-falls. At a distance of
53 miles from the Palisades, Pigeon River is the
boundary-line between the United States and Canada ;
and here begins the " Grand Portage," a series of
lakes and streams, beyond which are Saskatchewan
and Manitoba.

— 176 —

The " Gopher State/' Minnesota, named from the
river; term of Indian origin, signifying "Whitish or
Sky-colored water." Explored by Hennepin and La
Salle, 1680; Fort Snelling, built 1819; organized as a
Territory, 1849; admitted, 1858.

Area, 83,365 square miles, extreme length, 380
miles; breadth near north line, 337 miles; near middle,
183 miles ; and on the south line, 262 miles.

Temperature at St. Paul: winter, 11° to 30° ;
summer, 67° to 74°. Rainfall at Fort Snelling, 25
inches.

Pembina, port of entry on Red river.

Number of farms, 140,000; value per acre, cleared
land, $20; woodland, $15.

Total acreage of the State, 53,353,600 ; in farms,
16,000,000 ; in forests, 1,800,000.

Wheat the staple, and milling the great industry,
giving employment to 4,000 people.

Ranks fourth in wheat and barley.

Dairy interests increasing in value, production of
butter and cheese becoming one of the great indus
tries.

Population, 1,118,486, inclusive 1,814 Colored, 99
Chinese, and 1,215 Indians.

Number of colleges, 5; school population, 400, 000 j
school age, 5-21.

Resuming my journey on the Northern Pacific R.
R., I reached Moorhead, a town of 5,000 inhabitants on
the Red River and the centre of an important trade and
thriving manufactures, also the seat of an Episcopal

— 177 —

College. Fargo, on the opposite side of the Red
River, is the first station in Dakota, has a population
of 10,000, and is regarded as the future commercial
center of Dakota. Fargo and Moorhead base their
prosperity on the fact that they are the entrepots of the
wheat-growing interests. Brick is manufactured here
extensively, and there are many other manufactures
and the car-shops and round-houses of the R. R. Company.

Bismarck, the territorial capital, situated on the E.
bank of the Missouri River, has a population of 5,000.
Many fine public buildings and a Catholic seminary
are in this city, and there is a lively trade carried on
by four lines of steamers with the region of the Upper
Missouri.

Mandan on the W. bank of the Missouri, has 2,000
inhabitants. The Missouri River is spanned by a fine
iron railroad bridge, and another iron wagon bridge
gives access to Fort Abraham Lincoln. Reaching the
twin towns of Medora and Little Missouri, lying on the
E. and W. banks of the Missouri, 240 ft. apart, the
headquarters of several large stock-raising companies
are found to be located there as well as the Northern
Pacific Refrigerator Car Company's shops, and the ex
tensive abattoirs of the Marquis de Mores, a young
French gentleman, who has thousands of cattle on the
range and is doing an extensive trade in shipping
dressed beof. In the vicinity are valuable coal mines.
This is also the central point of Pyramid Park, being
but 4 miles distant from Cedar Canon, and 6 miles

from the burning coal-mines.

12

— 178 —

Between here and the boundary of Montana is the
geologically interesting region of the so-called "Bad
Lands."

From Grlendive,- on the Yellewstone River, a dis
tance of 80 miles, Fort Budford is reached by
stage.

Miles City, on the Yellowstone, at the mouth
of Tongue River, has many fine buildings and 3,000
population. There is a 14 mile ditch for irrigation
and valuable lignite mines in the near vicinity. 2
miles farther on the railroad is Fort Keogh, a military
post of 10 companies, and passing a number of stations,
among which is Ouster, deriving its name from Fort Cus-
ter, the largest post in the territory, 30 miles S., reached
also by stage, Billings, on the Yellowstone River, with
],500 population, is entered into. Here are the R. R.
Company's repair-shops, and from here large shipments
of cattle, wool, hides, and bullion are made. The
Maginnis Mines, Fort Benton and other important
points of valuable grazing, mining, and agricultural
regions are reached by stages.

At the fort of the Belt Mountains, about midway be
tween the Great Lakes and the Pacific Coast and at
the last crossing of the Yellowstone River, is Living
ston, with a population of 2,600.

It has the largest railroad round-house and machine-
shops between Brainerd and Portland. Large deposits
of iron, lime and sand-stone, silver ore, and bituminous
coal exist in close proximity. Lumber, lime and
brick are manufactured in the town. White Sulphur

-r- 179 —

Springs are 65 miles to the N. These Springs contain
remarkable medicinal qualities.

The Yellowstone Park Branch diverges here and
runs to Cinnabar and from the end of the railway the
"Wonderland" of the United States is reached by
stage, in 6 miles.

Dakota, so called from a tribe of Indians of the
same name had its first settlements at Pembina, made
by Lord Selkirk, 1812. It was organized as a Terri
tory, 1861, and had its first legislature at Yankton,
March 1862.

Area, 149,100 square miles 5 average length, 450
miles ; breadth, 350 miles ; ranks in size next to Texas
and California.

General elevation, 1,000 to 2,500 ft.; Red River
frontage, about 250 miles; the Missouri navigable
throughout the territory.

Temperature at Bismarck : winter 4° to 27° ; sum
mer, 63° to 71°. Climate dry, and cold not so pene
trating as in moister regions further east. Rainfall at
Fort Randall, 17 inches; 73 per cent, of year's rain
falls in spring and summer.

Yankton is the chief town of the South.

Dakota is the finest wheat-growing country on the
continent. Nutritious grasses at all seasons and abund
ant water offer remarkable advantages for stock-rais
ing; wool growing an important industry ; climate es
pecially favorable for sheep. Ranks fourth in gold,
and mineral wealth centred in Black Hills; coal found
in workable quantities west of the Missouri.

— 180 —

Population, 135,177 in 1880, with sufficient in
crease since then to entitle her to admission as a State.
In the population are included 401 Negroes, 238 Chi
nese, and 1,391 Indians.

The Yellowstone National Park, which Congress
has set apart as a public park for the benefit and en
joyment of the people, is situated partly in Wyoming
and partly in Montana.

It is 65 miles N. and S. by 55 miles E. and W.,
comprises 3,575 square miles, and is all more than
7,000 ft. above the sea. Yellowstone Lake has an
altitude of 7,788 ft.; and the mountain-ranges that
hem in the valleys on every side rise to the height of
10,000 and 12,000 ft. and are covered with perpetual
snow.

The entire region was at a comparatively recent
geological period the scene of remarkable volcanic
activity, the last stages of which are still visible in the
hot springs and geysers. In these the Park surpasses
all the rest of the world. There are probably 50 gey
sers that throw a column of water to a height of form
50 to 200 ft. and nearly 10,000 springs, chiefly of 2
kinds, those depositing lime and those depositing silica.
There is every variety of color, and the deposits form
around their borders the most elaborate ornamentation.
The temperature of the calcareous springs is from 160°
to 170° 5 that of the others rises to 200° or more.

The chief points of interest are, the Mammoth
Hotel Terraces, the Norris Geyser Basin, extending
from the Lake of the Woods to Madison river, the

— 181 —

•

Mammoth Paint-Pots, at the foot of Mount Johnson,
the Monument Geyser Basin, on the top of Mount
Schurz, in which is the Prismatic Canon, the Ebony
Basin, containing Walpurgia Lake, and the Black
Warrior Geyser. On the N. of the park are the
sources of the Yellowstone; on the W. those of the
principal forks of the Missouri; on the S. W. and S.
those of Snake river, flowing into the Columbia, and
those of Greene river, a branch of the Great Colorado,
which enters into the Gulf of California ; while on the
S. E. side are the numerous head-waters of AVind
river.

The Yellowstone River, a tributary of the Missouri,
is the most extraordinary river on the American conti
nent j its source is near S. E. corner of the park in the
Yellowstone Lake, 12 miles long and 10 to 15 wide,
7,788 ft. above the sea, and nearly inclosed by sriow-
clad mountains, rising 3,000 to 5,000 ft. higher. 15
miles below the lake are the Upper Falls, and j of a
mile farther down the majestic Lower Falls, which are
360 ft. high.

Below the Lower Falls the river flows for 20 miles
through the Grand Canon, whose perpendicular sides,
from 600 to 1,500 ft. apart, rise to the height of 1,200
to 1,500 ft. Below the Grand Canon, the river re
ceives Tower Creek, which flows for 30 ft. through a
gloomy and pretty deep canon, the Devil's Den, 600 ft.
above its mouth the creek pours over an abrupt de
scent of 156 ft., thus forming a most beautiful and
picturesque fall.

— 182 —

The most remarkable group of hot springs in the
world is the Mammoth or White Mountain Hot Springs.
Many of these springs are dead, but the calcareous de
posits from them cover an area of about 2 square miles.
The springs in activity extend from the river's edge to
nearly 1,000 ft. in elevation. The Sulphur Mountain,
rising from an almost level plain to a height of 150 ft.,
is perforated with numerous fissures and craters, from
which sulphurous vapor pours forth in abundance.

Close by are some Boiling Mud Springs, and a few
miles above the Sulphur Mountain is the Mud Volcano,
which has broken out from the side of a well-timbered
hill. This volcano is in a constant state of ebullition,
throwing up masses of boiling mud and sending up
dense columns of steam which rise several hundred feet
and are seen for miles around.

The Great Geysers of the Yellowstone region arc
situated on the Fire-Hole river, the middle fork of the
Madison in the W. portion of the park. They form 2
large groups, the Upper and Lower Geyser Basins.
Most of the Springs and Geysers arc near the river.
Their average temperature is over 170°, that of the air
67°. Among these, the "Old Faithful/7 the "Giant-
ess," the "Grand Geyser" and "Giant Geyser," are
the most prominent, the waters of which are thrown up
in columns to a height of from 100 to 250 ft. The
Castle, the Grotto, the Punch-bowl, the Eiverside, the
Soda, and the Fan Geysers, and numerous others which
have not been named, are worthy of notice.

Passing Bozeman, with 2,500 population and several

— 183 -—

flour and plaining mills, and where coal, gold, silver,
iron and copper are found nearby, the military post of
Fort Ellis is 3 miles E. on the railroad, and after
Gallatin, at the head of the Missouri river and Towns-
end are passed, Helena, the territorial capital, is reached,
already described by me. An excursion to the Gregory
mine district, one of the most productive in the world,
was worth making.

Montana was formerly a part of Idaho; became a
Territory, 1864; and received about 2,000 square miles
from Dakota in 1873.

Area, 146,080 square miles; length, east and west,
460 to 540 miles; average breadth, 275 miles.
Drained by the Missouri and its tributaries and the
tributaries of the Colorado. Through the E. portion
run the small tributaries of the Missouri and the
Yellowstone in every direction, while a great number
of small rivers, tributary to Flathead and Missoula
rivers, forming one of the forks of the Columbia, water
the W. section of the territory.

Temperature at Virginia City: winter, 17° to 30°,
summer, 55° to 65°; rainfall seldom exceeds 12 inches
per annum. Immense area of cultivable land; cereal
productions are very large, some varieties of corn
grown in portions of Territory, but generally too cold.

Grazing interest of value; estimated area of valu
able grazing land, 100,000 square miles; great extent
of plains and mountain valleys yet untouched by
herdsmen.

Montana is one of the richest mining countries in

— 184 —

the world; mineral wealth almost inexhaustible; the
production in 1882 amounted to about 7 millions of
Dollars, of which f was silver and -J- gold.

Manufacturing interests mainly smelting works, and
flour and lumber mills.

Hanks fifth in silver and in gold.

Population, 39,159, including 346 Negroes, 1,765
Chinese, and 1,663 Indians.

School population, 10,482; school age, 4 to 21,
graded schools in Deer Lodge City, Virginia City and
Helena.

Resuming my journey to Denver, Colorado, by way
of Salt Lake City, on the Union Pacific R. II., I in
tended to stay in Denver for some time and to explore
the interior of Colorado, but especially to study the
Geology of the Rocky Mountains. After the required
rest, I started first to Central City, a prosperous mining-
town with 2,500 inhabitants, beautifully situated on
mountain slopes, at an elevation of 8,300 ft. There
are a number of quartz-mills here, and being in the
centre of a very rich gold-mining region, it has great
business. From here I travelled through Clear Creek
Valley to Idaho Springs, a nice little village, beautifully
situated in a lovely valley, among lofty mountain-
ranges, 7,800 ft. above the sea. The chief attractions
are the hot and cold mineral springs containing mag
nesia, soda, iron and lime, considered to be remedial in
rheumatic diseases, and as they are chiefly for bathing
there are extensive bathing establishments.

12 miles beyond the Springs is the important

— 185 —

mining town of Georgetown, situated on S. Clear Creek,
at a height of 8,412 ft., one of the highest towns in the
world. It is surrounded by hills and has many inter
esting spots in the neighborhood and is the starting
point for Gray's Peak, 14,251 ft. above the sea. The
mountain view from the Peak is undescribably grand.

En route for Graymont, and just before Silver
Plume, the R. R. (Colorado Central, branch of the
Union Pacific) describes a double curvature, the so-
called Loop, considered to be one of the wonders of
American railroad-engineering, without any other equal
in the world than the railroad line between Vera Cruz
and Orizaba in Mexico. Graymont is at the foot of
the aforesaid Gray's Peak.

On the second excursion, Colorado Springs, whose
name is misleading, since the Springs are 5 miles dis
tant from here, in Manitou Springs, was visited.
Colorado Springs is a flourishing village, situated on
the plains, with a fine view of the mountains.

Manitou Springs, the " Saratoga of Colorado," are
situated among the foot-hills at the base of Pike's
Peak, and on the banks of the beautiful Fontaine
Creek. The waters, containing sulphur, soda and
iron, have great tonic effects. The romantic Ute Pass
and the Ute Falls are in the nearest neighborhood, the
latter descending in an unbroken sheat over a precipice
50 ft. high. The picturesque Williams Canon, 15 miles
long with rocky-walls, rising 6 to 800 ft. nbove a very
narrow pass below, are also in the vicinity.

Manitou is on the trail to Pike's Peak, reached on

— 186 —

horse-back in about 11 to 12 hours. The view from
its summit, 14,300 ft. high, embraces many thousand
square miles of plain and mountain, and it stands on the
edge of a great mountain-range. Here is a station of
the Weather-Signal Bureau, occupied summer and
winter.

A few miles E. of Manitou Springs, on the plain, the
so-called Mesa (table), are wonderful formations of
sandstone.

2 miles from Manitou is the "Garden of the
Gods/' a little mountain-valley. The road enters it
through the " Beautiful Gate,'7 a narrow passage-way
between two high ledges of cliffs, in whose center a
rock pillar, 30 ft. in height, stands, thus still further
narrowing the passage-way. The garden consists of
a tract of land of about 450 acres in extent, hemmed
in by mountains and bordered by red sandstone cliffs
and is almost shut in from the plains.

1 mile from the Garden, at "Glen Eyrie/' are
similar formations of isolated rocks, one of these, the
Major Domo, rising to a height of 120 ft., while at its
base, it is not more than 10 ft. in diameter.

Glen Eyrie is a beautiful mountain-gorge, and
closed in on every side by cliffs, whilst a lovely moun
tain-brook traverses it from one end to the other. Up
the rugged Queen's Canon is the Devil's Punch Bowl,
romantic cascades and rapids. Cheyenne Canon, 9
miles from Manitou, has picturesque cascades and
beautiful rock-formations.

The most visited spot in Colorado, also 9 miles from

— 187 —

Manitou Springs, "Monument Park/' is very striking,
and filled with phantastic groups of eroded sandstone,
from 5 to 50 ft. high, almost a unique in the West.
They are on each side of the Park, which is not
quite one mile in length, and mostly ranged along the
low hills of the same.

Caves with peculiar interior formations of stalacti
tes and stalagmites are also here to be found, the
Grand Cavern, 9,000 ft. above the sea, has magnificent
detail-formations.

Pueblo, the most important city in South Colorado,
was my next aim.

This city is situated at the confluence of Arkansas
River and Fontaine Creek. It is the center of a vast
and rich agricultural and grazing region, does a very
large trade, and has a population of about 4,000, there
are several extensive iron-smelting-works.

From Pueblo the Leadville Division of the Denver
and Rio Grande R. R. runs N. W. to Canon City,
near which is Talbott Hill, where Professor Marsh has
excavated some of the most remarkable fossils ever
discovered. Beyond Canon City, the Grand Canon
of the Arkansas is entered. The Arkansas river cuts
here its way for 8 miles through mountain walls of
granite, in some places 3,000 ft. perpendicularly.
The beauty of the scenery at the Royal Gorge is of an
extraordinary brilliancy, and here the track runs for
200 ft. along an iron bridge suspended over the river by
steel girders fastened in the rocks on both sides. Be
yond the Royal Gorge the land widens and offers

— 188 —

magnificent views of the Sangre de Christo mountain-
chain in the S. flanking the " Sierra Blanca," the high
est point in the Rocky Mountains, 14,650' above the
level of the sea.

Between Cafion City and Salida nothing noteworthy
is found, except a insignificant little place, bearing the
somewhat strange name Cotopaxi.

I stayed one day in Salida and ascended the
following day the famous "Marshall Pass," 10,800'
above the sea, and forming the natural divide between
the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. E. of the Pass the
waters flow toward the Arkansas river who discharges
into the Mississippi, and on the W. toward the Gunni-
son, the latter emptying in the Grand river. The
Grand river in junction with the Green river forms the
Colorado river who discharges in the Gulf of Cali
fornia.

The view from this Pass is exceedingly fine, es
pecially to the Mount Ouray in the Sangre de Christo
mountains. There are many snow-sheds on the Pass
to prevent snow-slides. The most important place on
the other side of the mountain-chain (the continental
divide), is Gunnison, with about 5, 000 inhabitants. It
is the great outfitting center of the region, and the
trade growing out of mining interests is very large. It
is very cold here in winter, already in November 26°
below Zero=25J (cold) E.

About 1J hours by rail, W. of Gunnison, is the
famous Black Canon of the Gunnison river. Of all
the accessible canons in the country, this is the grand-

— 189 —

est, the almost perpendicular descent is 2,000 ft. and
the river which penetrates this canon is very rich in
mountain-trouts.

After visiting the Canon I returned to Gunnison.

A lake, on a mountain S. of Cimaron, has disap
peared the year previous my arrival in consequence of
an earthquake and even the mountain itself had been
transformed; this must have caused great sensation,
since concussions of the earth in this high-plateau,
averaging 7,000', are very rare.

I started from Gunnison by the South Park Branch
of the Union Pacific R. R. in a northeasterly direction
and arrived in Leadville the next morning.

On this road lies the highest railroad pass in the
country, the Alpine Pass, 11,650 ft. above the sea.
The view from this Pass exceeds all others in the
State and is almost beyond description.

The city of Leadville is 10,200 ft. above the ocean,
considered to be the highest town in the world, and is
in the very heart of the Silver El Dorado, discovered
1878. It has over 18,000 inhabitants, and is the most
celebrated mining-camp in the West.

The mineral wealth promises to last for an indefinite
period of time. The city itself has more of a prosaic
than a romantic character, but the surroundings are
marvellously pretty, especially the mountain chain of
the Divide, W. of the city, with the picturesque Mount
Elbert. E. of the city is the Mosquito Range, most of
the mining works at its western slope. Here are Fryer
Hill, Carbonate Hill, and Yankee Hill. All the mines

— 190 —

in this region are known as the Carbonate Camp, on
account of the silver found with carbonate of lead.

The mountains in which silver is found are of the
lime formation and in the fissures are the ores, and the
silver is between a whitish Porphyr and dolomitic
lime-stone.

Long before the discovery of the Carbonate Camp,
gold was found . in the neighborhood, and the place
named by California prospectors and diggers, the Cali
fornia Gulch, and another place above the former: Oro.

Here it was, where the Governor and Senator Tabor
of Colorado — the same man, whom the State of Colorado
owes a great deal of its development and its consequent
progress and prosperity — had been digging gold.

The total value of ore produced for 1880, the last
census year, was $15,025,153. 14 miles from Lead-
ville are the celebrated twin Lakes, nearly 2 miles
above the sea-level.

There are but a few lakes in the Rocky Mountains,

The smelting-works are of gigantic dimensions,
rivaling with those of Pueblo and Denver. The re
fining is done in Omaha (Nebraska) and in Baltimore
(Maryland) j copper-ores are sent to Swansea, England.

The climate of Leadvillc is very agreeable, cool in
summer and not very cold in the winter, the temperature
of Denver lower than that of Leadville, but there is
more snow in winter in the latter.

After close inspections of the prominent mines, as
for instance, the Galena and Carbonate mines, etc., I
returned to Denver by way of the South Park line, on

— 191 —

which the two mountain-chains of the Mosquito and
Park ranges, running parallel, and a Pass, 11,000 ft.
in height, have to be crossed. Up to Breckenridge, in
the valley, there is nothing of extra ordinary note, but
when Como is reached, the mountain scenery is of un
usual splendor and brilliancy.

Beyond this place, the lovely South Park (one of
the many parks in the interior of the Rocky Moun
tains) has to be traversed. North, Middle, South and
San Luis Parks are the most prominent of them. San
Luis Park lies in a region where many Mexican live
and where Spanish predominates.

All these Parks are dryed-out lake bottoms, and
are variously situated, some at an altitude of from 7,000
to 9,000 ft. above the sea.

E. of the South Park, the so-called Kenosha range,
1 0,000 ft. high, has to be crossed and on the other side
is the Platte canon, very picturesqe, and the rising-
point of the South Platte river, the same on which the
city of Denver is situated, and who, in junction with
the North Platte, empties into the Missouri.

Once in the plains, the beautiful city of Denver
was soon reached, and a Siesta taken.

The Southwest of the State has a great future,
though the mining interest undeveloped and almost in
its infancy. The beauties of Nature are of marvelous
splendour, and it is surprising to find the means of
communication and transportation by rail in such a
neglected and pitiable condition.

Denver, the capital and largest city of Colorado, is

— 192 —

situated on the S. bank of the South Platte river, at
the junction of Cherry Creek, 15 miles from the E.
base of the Rocky Mountains, and about 500 miles W.
of the Missouri river. It occupies a series of plateaus,
facing the mountains, and commanding a grand and beau
tiful view. Pike's and Long's Peaks, as well as the
snow-covered summits of the range, extending more
than 200 miles are seen from here. Denver is the
commercial center of Colorado, and beautifully built,
mostly of brick, manufactured in the vicinity. The
trade of the city is very large, and from it 5 railways
radiate. The public buildings are handsome and ex"-
tensive and the private residences very beautiful.

Denver possesses the Denver University, the U. S.
Branch Mint, and among its chief structures are: the
Court House, City Hall, Chamber of Commerce, the
Tabor Opera House, the Railroad depot, several brew
eries and factories and a few good hotels. The Den
ver Smelting and Refining Works occupy a very large
building, with a capacity of 40 tons of ore per diem.

According to the census of 1 880, it had a popula
tion of 35,630, but estimated now to have 80,000
inhabitants.

Intending to return to Denver later on, I started
for Santa Fe, in New Mexico.

La Junta, situated on the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe R. R., is the junction with the main line
which extends to all points of New Mexico and Ari
zona. The next important place is Trinidad, lying at the
foot of the Raton Mountains, with a population of 5,000.

— 193 —

It is the center of a large mining business and cat
tle trade. The city presents a true Mexican type with
its mixture of brick and adobe houses. 14 miles dis
tant from here, at Morley, the road climbs through the
Raton Pass on the mountains on a grade of 185 feet to
the mile. Ascending the "DeviFs Canon/' as it is
called, the Spanish Peaks, 100 miles to the Nv are dis
tinctly visible, and 5 miles further up the mountain, at
a height of 7,688 ft., the train suddenly plunges into a
tunnel, J a mile in length.

While coming through the tunnel the border has
been crossed and one finds himself in the territory of
New Mexico.

Las Vegas, in that territory is reached, and the
brightness of sunny New Mexico manifests itself at
once. Las Vegas, on a branch of the Pecos River, has
1,500 inhabitants and is the trade-centre of the great
sheep-ranches of New Mexico.

A branch line connects the city with Las Vegas
Hot Springs, the attractive sanitarium. It is situated
at the mouth of a beautiful carion, and the Springs
have an altitude of 6,400 ft. At Lamy, named in
honor of the Archbishop of New Mexico, etc., the
railroad branches to the interesting and historic city of
Santa Fe. This place is the oldest town in the United
States, has a population of 5,500, and is the seat of an
archiepiscopal diocese, a convent and of 2 ancient
Roman Catholic churches, of which the Church of
"Nuestra Senora de Gruadalupe" is very famous. It is

a center of mining interests. Among the great curiosi-

13

— 194 —

ties of its relics is the ancient Governor's Palace, a long
and low structure, built of adobe, extending on one
side of the Plaza, where the Soldiers' Monument stands,
and which was erected in honor of those who fell in the
Indian and the late civil wars. On the N. E. outskirts
of the city is the military post of Fort Marcy. Santa
Fe is mostly built of adobe and its streets present a
very picturesque commingling of Americans, Mexicans
and Indians.

Resuming my journey from Lamy, I arrived at
Albuquerque, a town of over 4,000 population, situated
on the Rio Grande River, at an elevation of 5,000 ft.
above the sea. This place, with its modern structures
and its extensive trade in wool and hides, etc., is one
of the most flourishing and prosperous cities in New
Mexico, The vineyards of the Jesuits are well culti
vated and the grand Cathedral in the old part of the
city, 2 miles distant, is a beautiful edifice. Not far
from here is the famous institution in which children of
different Indian tribes are educated.

The train runs through a region full of fine sheep
and cattle ranches till it reaches the great mother ridge
of the Rocky Mountains at Continental Divide (a sta
tion). Wingate, 3 miles from Fort Wingate, is a busy
little town, and from here stages run to the Indian vil
lage of Zuni, 45 miles N., famous through the re
searches of Mr. F. Gushing, who has found among these
Indians relics of a high and mysterious civilization.

Passing Manuelito, where a stage-line runs to Fort
Defiance, the headquarters of the Navajo Agency, Hoi-

— 195 —

brook, is reached. I visited the Moqui Indian Village,
70 miles away, and found the same well worth a visit.
These Indian towns, built on eminences, are so situated
that they can only be approached through a narrow
defile. The houses are 2 or 3 stories high, built of
mud and stone, and ranged in the form of hollow
squares. Access can only be had by ladders to the
second stories, the first being built solid without any
opening. There are seven of these Moqui Pueblos, or
Dying Cities, as they have been called, and of which
Zuni is the chief, and the inhabitants have often and
deeply excited the curiosity of archaeologists. Thev
are skilled in pottery, weaving and mural decorations,
and their religious rites are of a very strange nature.

At Canon Diablo, the scenery is very sombre and
impressive, and the railroad spans the mighty chasm
by a bridge 500 ft. long and 225 ft. high.

From Peach Springs is the departing point for the
Grand Canon of the Colorado, one of the greatest
natural wonders in the world.

The Grand Canon of Colorado was made known to
the world only a few years ago by the adventurous voy
age of my worthy friend, the Major Powell, downtheriver.
The Colorado river is formed by the Grand and Green
rivers, which unite in Utah, and flows southward into
Arizona. It passes through a succession of remarkable
canons, but all of these preliminary wonders sink into
insignificance before the Grand Canon, which is more
than 300 miles long. The Canon opens all the series
of geological strata down to the granite foundation.

— 196 —

The walls are from 3,000 to 7,000 ft. in height. The
plateau adjacent to the canon is said to be about 7,000
ft. above the level of the sea.

The river, looking up the canon, is magnificent
aud beyond the most extravagant conception of the
imagination.

Continuing my journey on the Atchison, Topeka
and Santa Fe R. R., I reached Socorro, which has a
population of about 5,000, and is one of the principal
mining towns of the territory. Mining, grazing, and
fruit-growing are the principal industries. Socorro
has a stamp milll, and famous smelting- works (Billings).
The Socorro mining district contains the famous Tor-
rence and Merrit Mines, within 3 miles. The ores are
mostly carbonate of lead, carrying silver, some of which
runs as high as $28,000 to the ton. Situated in the
Rio Grande valley, the city is beautiful, and in addition
to the above named industries does a great trade in
agricultural and stock-raising products, and has many
fine ranches in its vicinity. San Marcial has about
1,200 inhabitants, is a thriving place, and here are the
repair-shops of the R. R. company. In 1862, the
battle of Valverde, named after a little Mexican village
across the river, was fought here between the Federals
under General Canby and the Confederates under
General Sibley.

New Mexico is named in honor of one of the Gods
of the Aztecs, the ancient inhabitants of Mexico. Col
onized by Spaniards, 1582 ; organized, 1850.

Area, 122,580 square miles j length, eastern bound-

— 197 —

ary, 345 miles; western, 390 miles; average breadth,
north of 32°, 335 miles; altitude, 3,000 to 4,000 ft.

Temperature at Santa Fe: winter, 27° to 37°;
summer, 66° to 70°. Rainfall at Fort Marcy, 17
inches.

Las Vegas, Silver City and Albuquerque are grow
ing in importance.

Crops abundant wherever water can be obtained,
and corn will ripen almost anywhere; 6,660 square
miles irrigable land; number of farms, 5,053. Total
acreage of the territory, 78,451,200; in farms, 631,131;
in forests, 219,224; unoccupied, 77,820,069.

Grazing interest extensive and valuable.

Mineral wealth is rapidly developing. Gold is
found in Grant, Lincoln, Colfax and Bemalillo counties;
rich copper mines on the San Pedro Grant, in Bcrna-
lillo county and in the Pinos Altos region. Zinc, quick
silver, lead, manganese, and large deposits of coal have
been found. Gold production in 1882, was $150,000;
silver, $1,800,000.

Population, 119,565, including 1,015 colored, 57
Chinese and 9, 772 Indians.

School population, 20,255; school age, 7-18.

By way of Fort Worth, on the Texas Pacific R. R,,
with 8,000 inhabitants and extensive farms in its neigh
borhood, and Lampasas, famous for the gigantic ranches
in the vicinity, I proceeded to the already described
city of Houston, thence to New Orleans, where the In
ternational Exposition was held.

Arrived in New Orleans toward the end of March,

— 198 —

I prolonged my stay in that city till the close of the
Exhibition, on the 1st of May, 1884, and started for the
State of Alabama, viz. : Mobile.

Mobile, the largest city and only seaport of Ala
bama, is situated on the W. side of Mobile river above
its entrance into Mobile Bay. It was the original
seat of French colonization in the Southwest and for
many years the capital of the colony of Louisiana.
Historians differ as to the precise date of its foundation,
though it is known, that as early as 1702. there was a
settlement, a little above the present site of the city.
In 1780, England surrendered it to Spain, and
that Government made it over to the United States in
1813. It was incorporated as a city in 1819, the
population being then about 800.

Mobile was one of the last points in the Confeder
acy occupied by the Union forces during the late war,
and was not finally reduced until April 12, 1865, three
days after the surrender of General Lee. On August
5, 1864, the harbor fortifications were attacked by
Admiral Farragut, who ran his fleet past the forts, and
closed the harbor against blockade-runners, though he
failed to capture the city itself.

The trade of Mobile is much hindered by the shal-
lowness of its harbor.

The manufactures include carriages and furniture,
paper, foundries and machine-shops, the chief business
is the receipt and shipment of cotton, coal and lumber.

Its population is nearly 32,000. The city is laid
out beautifully, the streets adorned with shade-trees,

— 199 —

Fort Morgan, formerly Fort Bowyer, on Mobile Point,
and Fort Games, on the S. extremity of Dauphine
Island, command the entrance to the harbor, which is
about 30 miles below the city. Remains of batteries,
erected during the war, are still seen in and about the
harbor, and on the E. side of the Tensas river are the
ruins of Spanish Fort and Fort Blakely. There are
some costly public edifices, f. i., the Custom House,
which contains the Post Office, several fine churches,
hospitals, the Barton Academy, the Medical College,
and 6 miles W. of the City, the famous College of St.
Joseph, a Jesuit institution, in which is a valuable col
lection of scientific apparatus, and a library with 8,000
volumes.

Montgomery, the capital of the State, is not very
far from here, and is situated on the left bank of the
Alabama river, has 19,500 population, and from Feb
ruary to May, 1861, was the first Capital of the Con
federate States. The principal buildings are; the U.
S. Court House and Post Office, the State House, the
City Hall and the Court House. The train passes
many nice villages, and crosses one of the most pro
ductive portions of Alabama on its course from Mobile,
180 miles distant.

Other excursions I did not make in this State, and
therefore reproduce the collected statistics of it.

The name of Alabama derives from an Indian word,
signifying, "Here we rest." Settled near Mobile Bay
by French, 1702, admitted as a State, 1819; seceded
1861; re-admitted 1868.

,_ 200 — .

Area, 52,250 square miles ; length, 330 miles ;
average breadth, 154 miles ; seacoast, 60 miles. In
land steam navigation about 1?500 miles. Mobile is
the only seaport.

Temperature at Huntsville; winter, 46° to 52° 5
summer, 79° to 83 °, rainfall 55 inches. July is the
hottest month. Fruit trees blossom February 1st to
March 1st.

Huntsville, with 4,977 population, is the northern
trade center, Selma, an important railroad center, and
the two cities Birmingham and Bradford, very import
ant manufacturing centers, especially of iron, etc., and
a great coal trade is carried on in them.

Number of farms, 135,864. Average value per
acre, cleared land, $6.53; woodland, $4.08. Number
of industries, 2,070; flour and grist mills, 807; saw
mills, 354. Mineral regions in northeast corner, extend
ing southwest, about 160 miles, with average width of
about 80 miles, contains 3 distinct coal fields, area
over 5,000 square miles, and beds, 1 to 8 ft. thick ;
limestone, sandstone and iron near the coal.

Population, 1,262,505, inclusive 600,107 Negroes
and 213 Indians. Slaves, in 1860, 435,080. Number
of colleges, 4; school population, 401,002; school age
7-21.

En route to Florida, the city of Jacksonville was
reached. This is the largest city in Florida and is
situated on the left bank of the St. John's River.

Its population is 17,698, and with the suburbs,
about 22,000. The bluffs on the N. E. and N. W, of

— 201 —

the city are picturesque, and the commerce of some
importance.

Cotton, fruit, sugar, fish, and vegetables are shipped
to northern and foreign ports. The main temperature,
69.6°; the coldest month (January), 52.7°; the hot
test month (July), 83.4°. There are several fine
drives to Moncrief s Spring and on the shell-road, to the
Fair Grounds.

Sanford, on the St. John's River, lies in a distance
of 16 hours steamship ride from Jacksonville and near
this young, but rapidly growing city are a number of
fine orange-groves. Opposite from Sanford is Enter
prise, one of the most popular resorts in southern
Florida for invalids. Frederick De Bary, the well
known importer of New York, and the founder of the
De Bary Steamship Line on the St. John's, has his
country-seat here.

The St. John's River has its sources in a vast ele
vated savanna midway down the peninsula, flows almost
directly N. for 300 miles to Jacksonville, and then
turning E. empties into the Atlantic.

Its banks are lined with a luxuriant tropical vege
tation, orange-groves, shade-trees and picturesque vil
lages. For hundreds of miles one passes through a
grand forest of cypresses robed in moss and mistletoe;
of palms towering gracefully far above the surrounding
trees, of water-oak, poplar and pine trees, and where
the hammocks rise a few feet above the water-level,
the olive, cotton tree, juniper, cedar, the sweet-bay and
live-oak shoot up their splendid stems; while among

— 202 —

the inferior growths and shrubbery, the azalea, agave,
poppy, the mallow, sumach, the sensitive plant and the
nettle are noted. Vines, the wood-bine and, bignonia
and the fox-grape ran in these thickets and clamber
along the branches. For its whole length the river
affords glimpses of perfect beauty.

Green Cove Springs takes its name from a sulphur
spring, and is one of the favorite resorts, 3 miles above
Magnolia.

Palatka, admirably situated on the elavated W.
bank of the river is the largest city on the river above
Jacksonville, its population is 5,000. Above Palatka
the vegetation becomes more characteristically tropi
cal, and the river narrows down to a moderate-sized
stream, widening out at last only to be merged in
Grand and Little Lake George, Dexter's Lake, Lake
Beresford, and Lake Monroe, at Enterprise.

Lake George is one of the most beautiful lakes in
the world, 6 miles wide and over 13 miles long, and
from here to the already described Sanford, Drayton,
an island in the lake, and embracing, 1,700 acres, and
Volusia, 5 miles above Lake George, a landing station,
and Orange Grove, Hawkinsville, Blue Spring and
Lake Monroe are the most prominent features.

On another excursion from Jacksonville, I visited
St. Augustine, situated on the Atlantic coast of Florida
and occupying a narrow peninsula formed by the
Matanzas River and the St. Sebastian. All the old
Spanish residences in this place, which contains a resi
dent population of 2,200 (increased in the winter by

— 203 —

from 8,000 to 10,000 visitors) are built of coquina-
stone, those of the American residents in the modern
style.

The most interesting feature of St. Augustine is the
old Fort of San Marco, built of coquina, a unique con
glomerate of fine shells and sand found in large quanti
ties on Anastasia Island, at the entrance of the harbor,
and quarried with great ease. The Fort was 100
years in building and was completed in 1756, as is
attested by the following inscription over the gateway:
"Don Fernando being King of Spain, and the Field-
Marshal Don Alonzo Fernando Herida, being Governor
and Captain-General of this place, St. Augustine of
Florida and its provinces, this Fort was finished in the
year 1756. The works were directed by the Captain-
Engineer Don Pedro de Brazos y Gareny."

Its dark passages, gloomy vaults and recently-dis
covered dungeons impress the visitor, and bring one to
ready credence of its many traditions of inquisitorial
tortures; of decaying skeletons, found in the latest
opened chambers, chained to the rusty ring-bolts, and
of aPeged subterranean passages to the neighboring
convent. The Sea- Wall and the City Gate are impos
ing structures in a fair state of preservation.

In the old Catholic Cathedral, one of the bells
bears the date of 1682, and there are several convents,
and the Governors Palace, formerly the residence of
the Spanish Governors.

The old Huguenot Burying-Ground, and the Mili
tary Burying-Ground where the remains of those who

— 204 —

fell in the prolonged Seminole war rest, are interesting.

The Soldiers7 Monument, in honor of the Confederate
dead, was erected in 1871.

The climate of St. Augustine is singularly equable
both winter and summer 5 the mean annual temperature
being 70°.

A third excursion from the starting-point Jackson
ville was to the Ocklawaha River. The river empties
into the St. John's about 25 miles S. of Palatka,
opposite the diminutive town of Welaka after flowing
for about 250 miles through different counties. This
excursion was made up the Ocklawaha to Silver Spring
and well worth making. Alligators of immense size
are numerous, and birds of the most curious forms and
brilliant plumage are seen everywhere on this trip.
Silver Spring, said to be the traditional " Fountain of
Youth/' has wonderful clear waters, and on the bottom,
80 ft. below, the exact form of the smallest pebble is
visible. By the water of this spring, a deep river,
100 ft. wide, is formed, and known as Silver Spring
Creek.

Of other curiosities in Florida is the Indian River
Country, a long lagoon, beginning near the lower end
of Mosquito Inlet. The water of this lagoon or sea-arm
is salty, though it receives a considerable body of fresh
water through Santa Lucia River, an outlet of the
Everglades. The adjacent lands are mostly fertile,
producing abundantly oranges, lemons, limes, bananas,
pineapples, guavas, grapes, sugar-cane, different berries
and garden vegetables.

— 205 —

The climate is excellent and the tropical scenery
delightful. It was by one of the many southern out
lets of Indian River that General Breckenridge escaped
to Nassau after the collapse of the Confederacy.

155 miles W. of Jacksonville is the beautifully
located capital of the State, the city of Tallahassee.
The abundance and variety of its flowers and shrubs
give it the appearance of a garden.

There are some fine public buildings in which is
included the Capitol, the Court House, and the West
Florida Seminary. The climate is very healthy, and
the Lakes Bradford, Jackson and Lafayette very attrac
tively situated in its neighborhood.

The Wakula Spring, an immense lime-stone basin,
106 ft. deep, with crystalline clear water, and so copi
ous that a river is formed at its very start, is reckoned
among the chief wonders of Florida.

The Gulf coast of Florida has already been parti
ally described by me, and after leaving this State, I
entered an other southern State: the " Empire State of
the South," Georgia.

The discoverer of Florida, the " Peninsula State,"
landed on Easter Sunday, or " Flowery Easter," hence
the name.

Settled by Spaniards at St. Augustine, 1565; or
ganized as a territory, 1822 ; admitted as a State,
1845; seceded 1861; re-admitted, 1868.

Area, 58,680 square miles ; coast line, 1,146 miles,
472 being on Atlantic; length, north and south,
350 miles; length, east and west, 340 miles; mean

— 206 —

width of peninsula, 100 miles; greatest elevation,
250 ft.

Temperature at Jacksonville: winter, 55° to 61°;
summer, 80° to 83°. Rainfall at Fort Myers, 57 inches.

Pensacola has a population of 6,845. Number of
farms, 23,438; owned by State, 15,000,000 acres;
value per acre, cleared land, $9.48; woodland, $3.03;
swamp, $1.00; school lands, $1.25.

Corn most valuable crop. Over three million
orange trees planted since 1870 and millions of oranges
exported yearly.

Population, 269,493, inclusive 126,690 negroes, and
180 Indians. Slaves, in 1860, 61,745.

Betters on elections and duelists excluded from
voting.

School population, 88, 677 ; enrolled in public schools,
39,315; school age, 4-21.

Per steamship I arrived in the city of Savannah,
the chief city and commercial metropolis of Georgia,
situated on the S. bank of the Savannah river. Its
streets are broad and beautifully shaded, and contain
at many of the crossings small public parks, of which
there are 24 in the city. It is universally conceded
that Savannah is one of the handsomest cities in
America.

The chief business of the place is in cotton, though
the trade in lumber is also considerable. As a cotton
port it ranks second in the Union. The chief manu
facturing establishments are plaining mills, foundries,
and flour and grist mills.

— 207 —

Of noteworthy buildings, Savannah possesses sev
eral, among these are the Custom House, the Court
House, the Post Office, Exchange, the U. S. Barracks,
the Police Barracks, Artillery, Armory and Jail. Chat
ham Academy and St. Andrews Hall are conspicuous
structures. The Masonic Hall building is interesting
as the place where the Ordinance of Secession was
passed, January 21st, 1861. Four years later, on
December 28th, 1864, a meeting of citizens Avas held
in the same apartment to commemorate the triumph of
the Union arms. The Georgia Historical Society has
a fine library and some interesting relics. The Telfair
Academy of Arts, McCarthy's Business College, and
the Savannah Medical College are famous educational
institutions, there are also several very fine churches
in the city.

The most attractive place of public resort is Forsyth
Park with a handsome fountain and the stately Con
federate Monument. The Pulaski Monument is one of
the most perfect specimens of monumental architecture
in the United States, and appropriately covers the spot
where Pulaski fell, during an attack upon the city
while it was occupied by the British, in 1779.

The drives are of great beauty, the most prominent :
to Bonaventure Cemetery with its magnificent scenery.
1 mile beyond Bonaventure is Thunderbolt, also a popu
lar drive, and according to local tradition, deriving its
name from the fall of a thunderbolt which caused the
issue of a spring of wrater from the spot, flowing ever
since.

— 208 —

Augusta, with a population of 32,000, is one of the
most beautiful cities in the South. It is situated on the
Savannah river and contains the finest monument in
the South, the Confederate Monument, another monu
ment is that which was erected in 1849, to the memory
of the Georgian signers of the Declaration of Indepen
dence. Augusta has very fine buildings and a prosper
ous commerce and extensive manufactures. A fine
view of the city is obtained at Summerville, a suburban
town, where the U. S. Arsenal and the range of work
shops, built and used by the Confederates during the
war, are located. An excursion trip brought me to
Macon, a very prosperous and picturesque city with
20,000 inhabitants, on the Ocmulgee river. Here are
several important iron-foundries, machine-shops, cotton
and carriage manufactures, and flour-mills. The Mer
cer University is a prosperous institution, and the Pio
Nono College, the Wesley an Female College, and the
State Academy for the Blind are spacious and impos
ing buildings. Rose Hill Cemetery is considered one
of the finest burial-grounds in America.

Atlanta was the last place in the State which I
visited. It is the capital and the most important com
mercial city in the State, except in the cotton-trade,
and has a population of 50,000 (in 1880). It is the
great center of railroads, is picturesquely situated upon
hilly ground, 1,100 ft. above the sea, and is laid out in
the form of a circle. Its public buildings are of im
mense proportions and beauty.

Its position made it of vital importance to the

— 209 —

Southern cause, and with its capture by General Sher
man, September 2d, 1 864, the Confederacy's doom was
sealed. Before abandoning the city, to fall back on
Macon, General Hood set fire to all machinery-stores,
and war munitions which he could not remove, and in
the conflagration the greater part of the city was re
duced to ashes. In 1868 Atlanta was made the State
capital.

Georgia, the Empire State of the South, is the
farthest south and latest settled of the 13 original States,
named in honor of George II.,' King of England; settled
by English at Savannah, 1753; seceded, January, 1861 ;
re-admitted, December, 1870.

Area, 59,475 square miles; extreme length, 320
miles ; extreme breadth, 254 miles ; coast line, 480 miles ;
number of harbors, 3. Savanna, Ogeechee, Altamaha,
Satilla, St. Mary's, Flint, Chattahoochee and Upper
Coosa are navigable rivers.

Temperature at Augusta: winter, 46° to 52°; sum
mer, 79° to 83°. Rainfall at Savannah, 48 inches.

Savannah, Brunswick and St. Mary's are ports of
entry. Columbus contains the largest cotton-mill in
the South. Andersonville was the seat of the largest
rebel prison during the civil war.

Number of farms, 62,003 in 1860, and 138,626 in
1880. Average value per acre, cleared land, $6.93;
wroodland, $5.45. 72 per cent, of laborers engaged in
agriculture; rural income, $155 per individual. Ranks
second in rice and sweet potatoes. Latest mining re
ports give 100,000 tons of coal and 91, 416 tons of iron ore.

14

— 210 —

Population, 1,542,180, incl. 725,133 colored; 17
Chinese and 124 Indians.

Non-taxpayers are excluded from voting.

I could not obtain the School Statistics of this
State.

From Atlanta I proceeded to Charleston, which was
settled in 1679 by an English colony under William
Sayle, who became the first Governor.

It played a conspicuous part in the Revolution,
having been the first among the chief places of the
South to assert a common cause with and fur the
colonies. It was thrice assaulted by the British, and
only yielded to a 6 weeks siege by an overwhelming
force, May 12th, 1780. It was the leading city, both
in the nullification movement during Jackson's ad
ministration and the incipient stages of Southern
secession. Open hostilities in the civil war began at
Charleston, with the bombardment of Fort Sumter, on
April 12th, 1861; and for the next 4 years it was
one of the chief points of Federal attack, without being
lost by the Confederates, however, until General
Sherman's capture of Columbia, on February 17th,
1863. During the war many buildings were destroyed^
and the towers and steeples of churches riddled with
shot and shell. Since its close, rapid progress has
been made in the work of rebuilding, and Charleston is
now more prosperous than ever. It has about 50,000
inhabitants. The commerce of the city is very large,
the chief exports being cotton, rice, naval stores and
fertilizers. The manufacture of fertilizers from the

— 211 —

valuable beds of marl and phosphates (fossiles), dis
covered in 1868, is now one of the principal industries.
There are also flour and rice mills, bakeries, carriage
and wagon factories and machine-shops. Lumber is
taking a place among the leading articles of exports.
Ever since my stay in Charleston, the city has been
visited by several earthquakes which were very detri
mental, and nearly the whole region along the river
was inundated and the houses destroyed.

Charleston is situated at the confluence of the
Ashley and Cooper rivers, in lat. 32° 45' N., and Ion.
79° 57' W.

Of the public buildings of Charleston, several are,
or were of imposing beauty, viz.: the IT. S. Custom
House, the City Hall and the Old Orphan House.
The College of Charleston, the Medical College and
Roper Hospital, the City Hospital, the Chamber of
Commerce, the Masonic Temple, the U. S. Court House,
the Charleston Library, Academy of Music, the County
Jail, and the South Carolina Society Hall are more or
less handsome structures. St. Michael's and St. Philip's
Church, the former a venerable old structure, are very
famous. In the portion of the grave yard lying across
the street is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. In the old
Huguenot Church, the quaint and elegant mural entab
latures with which its walls are lined can be
seen.

15 miles from here is the old Church of St. James,
on Goose Creek, built in 1711. The harbor of Charles
ton is a large estuary, extending 7 miles to the Atlantic.

— 212 —

The passage to the inner harbor is defended by 4
fortresses.

Fort Surnter, rendered famous by the part which it
played in the opening scene of the Civil War lies upon
a shoal in the harbor, covering the channel. Sullivan's
Island, the "Long Branch" of South Carolina, and
Mount Pleasant, in the vicinity, are public resorts and
much frequented.

Aiken is among the most famous and frequented
winter-resorts in America. It lies on an elevated
plateau, about 700 ft. above the sea and the land con
sists of almost unmixed sand, covered by a scanty crust
of alluvium, which bears but little grass, only the great
southern pine grows here abundantly and pine-forests
encircle the town.

The natural barrenness of the soil has been over
come within the city by careful culture and liberal use
of fertilizers, and every house has its garden with trees
and southern plants. Inside the white palings arc
dense thickets of yellow jasmine, rose-bushes, orange,
wild-olive, and fig trees, bamboo, Spanish bayonet, and
a great many vines and creepers, but, without the
palings, the soil is as dry and white as it is upon the
sea-shore. The air is remarkably pure and dry, and the
average temperature is 63.1£°. In this place I had the
honor to form the acquaintance of the botanist Ravenel.

The capital of the State, Columbia, is a beautiful
city, situated on the bluffs of, and 15 ft. above the
Congaree, on an elevated level plateau, a few miles be
low the charming falls of the river.

— 213 —

During the" occupation by Sherman's forces in
February 1865, the city was considerably changed
through the unfortunate conflagration which destroyed
a large part of it. There are several handsome public
and private buildings, 2 Seminaries, the University of
South Carolina, the Executive Mansion and the State
House (unfinished), the Lunatic Asylum, State Peni
tentiary, the U. S. Court House and Post Office, the City
Hall, several Academies, and the Market-House, in
Columbia. The car-shops of the E. E. Company cover
4 acres of ground and there are other large manufac
turing establishments. In the N. W. of the city are
the Fair Grounds of the South Carolina Agricultural
and Mechanical Society.

The "Palmetto State,'7 South Carolina, was named
in honor of Charles II. of England, by whom the pro
vince was created in 1663. It is one of the 13 original
States. First permanent settlement made by the English
at Port Koyal, 1670. Famous nullification troubles
occurred 1832-33; led by J. C. Calhoun, and opposed
vigorously by President Jackson, during which his
famous expression "by the Eternal" was first used.

Seceded November, 1860; re-admitted June, 1868.

Area, 30,170 square miles; extreme length, 275
miles; greatest breadth, 210 miles; coast line, 200 miles.
Largest rivers, Savannah, Great Pee Dee, Santee and
Edisto.

Temperature at Charleston: summer, 79° to 83°;
winter, 50° to 54°; rainfall, 43 inches; frosts seldom
occur.

— 214 —

United States customs districts at Beaufort, Charles
ton and Georgetown.

First railroad to use American locomotives, the
South Carolina, built 1830-33.

Number of farms, 93,864. Average value per
acre, cleared land, $6.24 5 wood land, $3.65.

Number of flour and grist mills, 720.

Ranks first in phosphates. Gold mines in Abbe
ville, Edgefield and Union Counties. White and vari
egated marbles found in Spartanburgh and Laurens
Counties.

Population, 955,577, including 604,332 Colored, 9
Chinese, and 131 Indians.

Slaves, in 1860, 402,406.

U. S. Army and duelists excluded from voting.
Number of colleges, 9 ; school population, 262,279 ;
school age, 6—16.

On the road to the Lookout Mountain — my next
exploration-tour — I visited Chattanooga, a city of 30,000
inhabitants, situated on the Tennessee River near
where the S. boundary of Tennessee touches Alabama
and Georgia. 7 railroads converge here. Chattanooga
is a very important shipping-point and contains a num
ber of iron-mills, blast-furnaces and cotton factories.
It is the seat of the Methodist University. During the
war Chattanooga was an important strategic point for
the operations in Tennessee and Georgia, and played
a prominent part in most of the campaigns in this region.
Above the city the celebrated Lookout Mountain towers
to the height of 2,200 ft. above the sea. It was on this

— 215 —

Mountain that the battle was fought " above the
clouds." The points on the Lookout worth visiting are
Lake Seclusion, Lulah Falls, Rock City and the
Battle-field.

I next put up at Knoxville, a city of 12,000 popu
lation, situated on the Holston River, 4 miles below
the mouth of the French Broad. It is fyuilt on a
healthy and elevated site and is the principal commer
cial place in E. Tennesee, with some manufactures.
The East Tennessee University, with which is connec
ted the State Agricultural College, the Knoxville Uni
versity, the Freeman's Normal School, and the State
Institution for the Deaf and Dumb are located here.
The Cranberry-Region Magnet-iron-works, close to the
boundaries of North Carolina, are almost uniques in the
world, and offered me many interesting features.

On account of the far advanced season I was unable
to visit the city of Memphis and gathered all possible
data concerning this city, which I here cite as they
were given to me officially.

Memphis is the second city of Tennessee, it is situ
ated on the fourth Chickasaw bluff, and had in 1880 a
population of 33,593. Memphis has an immense rail
road — and on the Mississippi an important steamboat-
traffic, and is regularly laid out. The cotton trade and
its manufactures are very large. In the center of the
city is a handsome park, and the public buildings and
private residences of exceedingly pretty forms.

Memphis was captured by the Federals early in the
war (June 6; 1862), and was never afterward held by

— 216 —

the Confederates. A short distance below Memphis
the Mississippi turns toward the W., and crosses its
valley to meet the waters of the Arkansas and White
rivers. The latter enters the Mississippi 161 miles
below Memphis, and the former about 15 miles further
down. The Arkansas river is 2,000 miles in Jength,
for 800 of which it is navigable by steamers. It rises
in the Rocky Mountains, and, next to the Missouri,
is the largest tributary of the Mississippi.

The capital and largest city in the State in point of
population (45,000), is Nashville, on the S. bank of
the Cumberland river, 200 miles above its junction
with the Ohio, and built on irregular gradual rising
land. It has numerous imposing buildings, among
which the Capitol, constructed inside and outside of a
beautiful variety of fossiliferous lime-stone is pre
eminent.

The University of Nashville, with a fine museum,
the Fisk University, the Tennessee Central College,
Vanderbilt University, etc., are fine educational insti
tutions, and there are numerous others. The State
Penitentiary is located here and the manufactures are
varied and important. 12 miles E. of Nashville is the
" Hermitage, " the celebrated residence of Andrew
Jackson.

In November, 1864, the Confederate General Hood,
having lost Atlanta, placed his army in Sherman's
rear and began an invasion of Tennessee. After severe
fighting with General Schofield on November 30, he
advanced upon Nashville and shut up General Thomas

— 217 —

within its fortifications. For two weeks little was done
on either side. When Thomas was fully ready, he
suddenly sallied out on Hood, and, in a terrible two
day's battle, drove the Confederate forces out of their
intrenchments into headlong flight. The Union cavalry
pursued them, the infantry following close behind, and
the entire Confederate Army, except the rear-guard,
which fought bravely to the last, was broken into a
rabble of demoralized fugitives, which at last escaped
across the Tennessee. For the first time in the war
an Army was destroyed; and General Sherman started
on his famous march to the sea.

The "Big Bend State,'7 Tennessee, whose name
derived from u Tannassee/' Indian name for Little
Tennessee Eiver, was first settled permanently, on
Tennessee river, in 1756, about 30 miles from present
site of Knoxville ; first Anglo-American settlement
west of the Alleghanies and south of Pennsylvania 5 ad
mitted, 1845; seceded, February, 1861; re-admitted,
1868.

Area, 42,650 square miles; greatest length, east
and west, 432 miles; greatest breadth, 109 miles.

Temperature at Nashville: winter, 37° to 48°;
summer, 75° to 81°. Rainfall at Memphis, 45
inches.

Memphis, principal grain and cotton market be
tween St. Louis and New Orleans. Number of farms,
165,650. Value per acre, cleared land, $13.00; wood
land, $7.28. Most valuable minerals are iron, copper
soal; area coal fields, over 5,000 square miles;

— 218 —

copper region in southwest; excellent marbles and
limestones.

Ranks second in peanuts. Hemp, broom corn and
flax are also valuable products. Population, 1,542,-
359, incl. 403,151 colored, 25 Chinese and 352 Indians,
Slaves in 1860, 275,719.

Non-payers of poll-tax excluded from voting. School
population, unknown.

I now started for the mountain region of North
Carolina where the Appalachian system reaches its
loftiest altitude, presents scenes of beauty and sublimity
unsurpassed by anything E. of the Rocky Mountains.
It consists of an elevated table-land, 250 miles long
and about 50 broad, encircled by two great mountain-
chains, the Blue Ridge on the E. and the Great Smoky
on the W., and traversed by cross-chains that run
directly across the country, and from which spurs of
greater or lesser height lead off in all directions. Of
these transverse ranges there are four: the Black, the
Balsam, the Cullowhee, and the Nantahala.

Between each lies a region of valleys, formed by
the noble rivers and their minor tributaries.

Clingman's Dome rises to the height of 6,660 ft.
Mount Mitchell, the loftiest summit E. of the Missis
sippi, is the dominating peak of the Black Mountain
group of the colossal heights, the most famous of the
transverse ranges. With its two great branches it is
over 20 miles long, and its rugged sides are covered
with a wilderness of almost impenetrable forest. Above
a certain elevation, no trees are found save the balsam-

— 219 —

fir, from the dark color of which the mountain takes its
name. N. of the Black Mountain stand two famous
heights, these are the Grandfather Mountain in the
Blue Ridge and Roan Mountain in the Smoky.

The Balsam, which in length and general magni
tude is chief of the cross ranges, is 50 miles long, and
its peaks average 6,000 ft. in height. From its S.
extremity two great spurs run out in a northerly direc
tion j one terminates in the Cold Mountain, which is
over 6,000 ft. high, and the other in the beautiful
peak of Pisgah, which is one of the most noted land
marks of the region.

Asheville, situated in the lovely valley of the
French Broad River, 2,250 ft. above the sea, sur
rounded by an amphitheatre of hills, commands one of
the finest mountain- views in America.

Morgantown is a popular resort, and is situated on
the slopes of the Blue Ridge, 1,100 ft. above the sea.
About 15 miles W. of Morgantown on the Glen Alpine
Springs with Lithia waters, and 25 miles from the
former is the Grand Linville Gorge, where the Lin-
ville River bursts through the massive barrier of the
Linville Mountains.

Resuming my journey per Western North Carolina
R. R., I arrived at Raleigh, the capital of the State,
with 8,000 inhabitants, situated on an elevation 6
miles W. of the Neuse River and a little N. E. of the
center of the State.

The State House is built after the model of the Par
thenon. The U. S. Custom House and Post Office,

— 220 —

the State Geological Museum, the Institution for the
Deaf and .Dumb, the State Insane Asylum, and the
Penitentiary are fine structures.

North Carolina, the "Old North State/7 or "Tar
State," is one of the 13 original States and was dis
covered by Lord Raleigh, 1584, settled by the English
at Albemarle, 1650; seceded, May, 1861; re-admitted,
June, 1868.

Area, 52,250 square miles; length, 450 miles;
breadth, 185 miles; coast line, over 400 miles; area
dismal swamp, 150,000 acres.

Temperature at Wilmington: winter, 46° to 51°;
summer, 76° to 80°. Frost seldom occurs before
November. Rainfall at Gaston, 43 inches. Deaths by
consumption, 1.5, per 1,000 of population.

Wilmington, principal seaport and chief city, with
13,446 population. Charlotte contains assay office.

Farms in 1860, 75,203, increased to 157,609 in
1880; average value per acre, cleared land, $9.77;
woodland, $5.53.

Agriculture the leading industry ; corn the most
valuable crop; tobacco the leading product, and orch
ards very productive. Ranks first in tar and turpen
tine, and second in copper. Number of different in
dustries, 3,802; flour and grist-mills, 1,313; saw
mills, 776. About 3,000 boats are engaged in general
fisheries.

Population, 1,399,750, with 531,278 Colored, and
1,230 Indians. Slaves, 1860, 331,059.

Public school system adopted 1840; at present

— 221 —

over 2,000 public schools in operation; school age,
6-21.

The road to Richmond, Virginia, is admirably
pretty. The scenery and the distant mountain ranges,
changing their contures, the farther one proceeds, is of
an extraordinary brilliancy, and many lovely little
places, dense forests, and well-cultivated fields and
meadows are passed before Richmond is reached.

This metropolis of the State of Virginia and its
capital is situated on the N. bank of the James river,
about 100 miles from Chesapeake Bay. It is built on
several eminences, the principal of which are : separated
by Shockoe ' Creek, Church and Shockoe Hills, sur
rounded by beautiful scenery.

Richmond was founded 1737, incorporated 1742,
and became the State capital in 1779, when it was a
small village.

In 1861 great prominence was given to it as the
capital of the Southern Confederacy, and one of the
great aims of the Federal authorities, throughout
the war, was to reduce it into their possession. Strong
lines of earth-works were drawn around the place by
the Confederates, and are yet to be seen. When
General Lee evacuated Petersburg, April 2d, 1865, the
troops defending Richmond on the E. were withdrawn,
and to prevent the tobacco warehouses and public stores
from falling into the hands of the Federals, the build
ings, together with the bridges over the James river,
were fired. This resulted in the destruction of a large
part of the business section of the city, the number of

— 222 —

buildings destroyed having been estimated at 1,000,
and the loss at $8,000,000.

With the cessation of hostilities, the burned quar
ters were rebuilt, and at present Richmond is surpass
ing its former prosperity,

In 1880, the population was 63,803. The com
merce is very large, the chief articles of export being
tobacco and flour. The manufactures include iron
works, machine-shops, foundries, sugar-refineries, cigar-
factories, furniture, sheetings and shirtings, coach and
wagon-factories and stoneware.

The most conspicuous object in the city, is the
State Capitol. The plan for the building was furnished
by Thomas Jefferson, and is after the Maison carree at
Nismes, in France. In the State Library are 40,000
volumes. The equestrian statue of Washington, sur
rounded by bronze figures of famous Americans is of
a colossal size and is one of the finest bronzes in the
world.

The Historical Society Collections, and not far
from it, the life-size marble statue of Henry Clay, and
the statue of General " Stonewall Jackson, of heroic
size, are well worth seeing.

The Medical College, Richmond College and the
Southern Female Institute, are famous schools of learn
ing. The Brockenbrough House, formerly the resi
dence of Jefferson Davis, President of the Southern
Confederacy, is now used as a school-house. The
Almshouse, State Penitentiary and the Mozart Academy
of Music are fine edifices, as are the Churches St.

— 223 —

John's (Episcopal), Monumental Church and St. Paul's
(also Episcopal).

Libby Prison and Belle Isle retain some interest as
military prisons during the late civil war.

Of the several cemeteries of Richmond, Hollywood
is the principal, in it lay the remains of President
Monroe and of President Tyler. In the soldiers sec
tion rise<s a monumental pyramid in honor of the dead.
5 bridges across the river connect Richmond with
Spring Hill and Manchester, the latter a pretty town
with 2 fine cotton-mills. The Tredegar Iron- Works,
which were the great cannon manufactory of the Con
federacy, are worth a visit, covering over 15 acres of
ground, and the Gallego and Haxall Flour-Mills are
among the largest in the world.

A few hours ride from the city bring the traveler
to several battle-fields and National Cemeteries.

Boarding a train of the Wilmington and Florence
E. R., and crossing the James River, the well built
city of Petersburg was reached. It it situated at the
head of navigation on the Appomattox River, 12 miles
above its entrance into the James. Its trade is large j
tobacco, wheat, corn, cotton and general country pro
duce, the chief business. In 1880, Petersburg had
23,000 population. There are some fine public buildings.

Petersburg was the scene of the last great struggles
during the late civil war and is now prospering.

Norfolk was next visited. The city is pleasantly
situated on the N. bank of the Elizabeth River, 8 miles
from Hampton Roads and 32 miles from the ocean.

— 224 —

After Richmond it is the most populous city in the
State, with 26,000 inhabitants and a large trade.
Oysters, early fruits and vegetables arrive here in
large quantities, and are shipped to Northern ports.
Its harbor is defended by Fortress Monroe and the
Eip Raps, this Fortress being the largest in America
and having Hampton in its vicinity, where the National
Soldiers Home and the Normal and Agricultural Insti
tute for colored people and Indians, the most interest
ing institutions in the country, are located. 9 miles
from Fortress Monroe, on Hampton Roads, is Newport
News, famous for the great historic interest in connec
tion with the Revolutionary War and the late Civil
War.

The city of Norfolk is irregularly laid out, but the
streets are generally wide and the houses well built;
some of its churches very fine structures. Norfolk
was founded in 1682, incorporated in 1705 and burned
by the British in 1776. In 1855 the city was severely
visited by yellow fever and played a prominent part in
the first year of the civil war, when it was captured by
Virginians and became the chief naval depot of the
Confederacy. Off Norfolk, on March 8, 1862, was
fought the memorable engagement between the Con
federate iron-clad Virginia and the Federal iron-clad
Monitor, which marks one of the most notable epochs
in naval warfare and changed the course of naval con
struction throughout the world. Opposite Norfolk,
connected by ferry, is Portsmouth, a city of 11,388 in
habitants, and one of the best harbors on the Atlantic

— 225 —

coast. At Gosport, the S. extremity of the city, is a
U. S. Navy Yard, and near by is the U. S. Naval Hos
pital. At the time of the secession of Virginia, April
18, 1861, nearly 1,000 men were employed at the Navy
Yard. Two days afterward it was destroyed by fire,
with property valued at several million dollars, includ
ing 11 war-vessels.

On a rather weary some journey I arrived at Lynch-
burg, important from the lines of railway which center
here. The city has 15,000 inhabitants and does a
great business in tobacco and other manufactures. It
lies on the S. bank of James river and has an inexhaus
tible water-power. About 20 miles in the background
rises the Blue Eidge, together with the Peaks of Otter,
which are in full view. In the neighborhood are vast
fields of coal and iron-ore, and the celebrated Botetourt
Iron-works are not far distant.

On the pretty long tour from here to Fredericks-
burg, I passed well cultivated and rich agricultural
regions and mining districts. The city, quaint and
old, is situated on the S. bank of the Rappahannock
river, and is noted as being the scene of one of the
severest battles of the civil war, fought December 13,
1862, in which General Burnside was defeated by
General Lee. 11 miles W. of Fredericksburg, on the
E. edge of "The Wilderness/' the battle of Chancellors-
ville, in which "Stonewall" Jackson lost his life,
was fought May 2-4, 1863. Southward from Chan-
cellorsville is Spottsylvania Court-House, where in

May, 1864, were fought some of the bloodiest battles

15

— 226 —

of General Grant's campaign on his way to Rich
mond.

Just outside the limits of Fredericksburg an unfin
ished monument, begun in 1833, marks the tomb of
the mother of Washington, who died here in 1789. It
was in the vicinity of Fredericksburg that Washington
himself was born, and here he passed his early years.
At Hanover Junction, 37 miles from Fredericksburg,
another battle was fought between General Grant and
General Lee in May, 1864.

At Alexandria, 7 miles below Washington, on the
S. side of the Potomac, I received the sad news of the
death of the Ex-President of the United States, Gen
eral Grant, and having had the honor to be personally
acquainted with the "Hero" of many battles, I has
tened to New York to attend at his funeral.

The city of Alexandria dates from 1784 and is in
timately associated with the life and name of Wash
ington. In Christ Church the pew No. 59, in whicli
he sat, is an object of much interest. Pew No. 46 was
occupied by General Robert E. Lee when he resided
at Arlington before the war. The Museum, Court
House and Thelogical Seminary are among the prom
inent buildings, and on the outskirts of the city is a
National Cemetery, in which nearly 4,000 soldiers are
buried.

The State of Virginia, "The Old Dominion,'' was
named in honor of Elizabeth, the Virgin Queen. It is
one of the 13 original States. Settled by the English at
Jamestown, 1607. Slavery introduced 1619. Seceded

227

May, 1861; re-admitted, January, 1870. Area, 42,450
square miles 5 greatest length, east and west, 440 miles ;
greatest breadth, 190 miles. Coast line, about 120
miles, or tidal frontage, 1,500 miles.

Temperature at Norfolk: winter, 40° to 48°;
summer, 75° to 80°. Kainfall at White Sulphur
Springs, 38 inches.

Number of farms, 118,517 ; 51 percent, of laborers
are engaged in agriculture. Average value per acre,
cleared land, $9.42; woodland, $7.48.

Marble quarried on Potomac. Number of sand
stone quarries, 10; ship-building establishments, 65;
saw-mills, 907; flour and grist-mills, 1,385.

Gold produced 1882, $15,000. Eanks first in pea
nuts, and second in tobacco.

Population, incl. 631,616 colored, 6 Chinese and 85
Indians, 1,512,565.

U. S. Army and non-taxpayers of capitation tax ex
cluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 7; school population, 555,807;
school age, 5-21.

The "Pan Handle State," West Virginia, has only
been slightly explored by me, the few cities and other
places which 1 visited did not offer any important
features, and I was compelled to rely on the informations
received from various sources.

West Virginia is composed of northern and western
counties of the original State of Virginia; denounced
passage of secession ordinance, April 22, 1861, and be
came a State, 1863.

— 228 —

Area, 24,780 square miles; greatest length, north
and south, about 240 miles ; greatest breadth, 160
miles. Big Sandy, Great and Little Kanawha, Guy-
andotte, and Monongahela are navigable rivers.

Temperature at Morgantown: winter, 34° to 42°;
summer, 70° to 75°. Rainfall at Romney, 45 inches.

Charleston, capital, has 4, 192 inhabitants and some
trade. The metropolis of the State is Wheeling, its
population about 35,000. The trade on the Ohio
river is very important in this city and there are many
manufactures of iron-works, nail-mills, and glass-works.
The National Road crosses the Ohio here by a graceful
suspension bridge, 1,010 ft. long, and the railroad
bridge below the city is one of the finest in the country.
There are several fine buildings, formerly occupied by
the State Government, in Wheeling.

Parkersburg is a port of delivery, and has 6,500
inhabitants and an important trade especially in petro
leum.

The bridge crossing the Ohio, 1J miles long,
to Belpre, is said to be one of the most magnificent
bridges in the United States.

Martinsburg, with 6,335 inhabitants, is pleasantly
situated on an elevated plateau above Tuscarora Creek,
which affords a fine water-power. Much fighting oc-
cured in this vicinity during the civil war, and in June,
1861, the Confederates destroyed 87 locomotives and
400 cars belonging to the railroad company.

Number of farms, 62,674. Average value per acre,
cleared land, $21.05; woodland, $9.39. 61 per cent.

— 229 —

of laborers engaged in agriculture. Staples are tobacco,
wheat and corn, the last being the most valuable crop.
Iron ore yields 50 to 80 per cent, pure metal. Petro
leum is extensively produced in Ritchie, Pleasants,
Wood and AVirt counties.

Population, 618,457, including 25,886 Colored, and
29 Indians. Slaves in 1860, 18,371.

Flourishing free school system 5 school population,
216,605; school age, 6-21.

After a brief stay in New York I started anew, to
explore the State of, Connecticut, and visiting Bridge
port, a prosperous city of 30,000 population, situated
on an arm of the Long Island Sound, and famous for its
many manufactures in sewing machines, leather, car
riages, arms, cutlery and locks, I proceeded to New
Haven, the largest city of Connecticut, at the head of
the New Haven Bay, on a broad plain surrounded by
rolling hills. It is the centre of 5 railroads, has a large
coasting trade and considerable foreign commerce,
chiefly with the West Indies. Its manufactures are very
large, including hardware, locks, clocks, machinery, fire
arms, carriages, jewelry, pianos, and India-rubber goods.

Population, 62,882. New Haven contains a great
many charitable institutions.

The Medical College is considered to be of high
standing. Yale College is one of the most important
and oldest educational institutions in America, founded
in 1700 and established at New Haven in 1717. The
Gothic library in the College contains 140,000 volumes.
The Winchester Observatory contains a 6-inch helio-

— 230 —

meter, and an 8-inch equatorial instrument. In the
Peabody Museum are the collections of the University
in geology, mineralogy, and the natural sciences, in
cluding the famous collection of Professor Marsh.

There are very handsome public and private build
ings in this city.

Beyond New Haven, 37 miles distant, is the capital
of Connecticut, Hartford, situated on the Connecticut
River. Its population in 1880 was 42,553 and it is the
centre of fire and life insurances in the Union. The
manufactures are very extensive, and include brass-
ware and iron, steam-engines, tools, machinery, sewing-
machines, fire-arms, silver-plated ware, woolens, etc.
The State House is marvellously pretty, and the State
library in that building is one of the largest law-libraries
in America. The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb,
founded 1817, was the first institution of the kind in
America, and the other State and Municipal charitable
institutions in the city are also famous. The Connect
icut Historical Society has a good collection of paintings,
statuary and books. Some of the churches in the city
are very pretty. Trinity College, (in the course of
erection when I was there) will be a handsomely adorned
architecture. In the S. E. portion of the city, located
on the banks of Connecticut River, is the famous Colt
Fire- Arms Manufactory. "Mark Twain's,'7 residence
is also here.

After a few more excursions to almost all parts of
the State, I continued my voyage to the smallest State
in the Union, Rhode Island.

— 231 —

Connecticut, the "Nutmeg State," has its name from
the Indian word, signifying "Long River." It is one
of the 13 original States, the first settlement (permanent)
was made by the English at Hartford, 1635.

Area, 4,990 square miles ; average length, 86
miles; average breadth, 55 miles; sea-coast, over 100
miles. Principal river valleys: Thames, Connecticut
and Housatonic. Most important harbors : Bridge
port, New Haven, New London, Saybrook and Ston-
ington.

Temperature at New Haven : winter, 27° to 40° 5
summer, 68° to 74°; rainfall, 44 inches.

Waterbury is an important manufacturing city
with 17,806 inhabitants. Fairfield, Middletown, New
Haven, New London and Stonington are ports of
entry.

Number of farms, 30,598; average value per acre,
cleared land, $29.00; woodland, $24.50. Number of
different industries, 4,488. Ranks first in clocks,
third in silk goods.

Population, 622,700, incl. 11,547 Colored, 123 Chi
nese, 6 Japanese and 225 Indians.

Those unable to read are excluded from voting.
Number of colleges, 3, having about 160,000 volumes
in their libraries. School age 4-16.

I found myself now in Newport, one of the two capi
tals of the State of Rhode Island; the other being Provi
dence. Newport is one of the most fashionable and
frequented of all the American summer resorts, it is
situated on the W. shore of Rhode Island and on Nar-

— 232 —

ragansett Bay, 5 miles from the ocean. It is a port of
entry and was settled in 1637, incorporated in 1700.
Sumptuous mansions and charming villas lie along the
terraces which overlook the sea.

Of curiosities there are too many in this place to
describe them minutely and I will only mention a few,
/. i.j the Touro Park with the Old Stone Mill, also called
the Round Tower, the old State House, founded in
1739, the Jewish Synagogue, erected in 1762, the ven
erable Trinity Church, the Redwood Library, contain
ing 20,000 volumes, paintings and statuary, the His
torical Society, with a fine collection of colonial relics,
and the Free Library, containing 15,000 volumes.

The surf-bathing in Newport is unsurpassed and
there are 3 fine beaches.

The drives in and around Newport are of unusual
elegance, and numerous lovely spots, such as caves,
glens, ponds and hills ornament the place. 3J miles
from the city is Fort Adams with 460 guns, one of the
largest and strongest fortresses in America.

Goat Island, opposite the city wharves, is the head
quarters of the torpedo division of the U. S. Naval
Service. Lime Rock, in the harbor beyond Goat
Island, is famous as the home of Ida Lewis.

In Narragansett Pier I found the same sea-sight
life as in Newport, and made a trip to the second capi
tal of the State, Providence. In wealth and population,
Providence is the second city of New England and the
chief in the State.

It is picturesquely situated on the northern arm of

— 233 —

Narragansett Bay, known as Providence river. Provi
dence was founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, who
had been banished from Massachusetts on account of his
religious opinions. In 1880 the population was 104,-
850. The manufacturers in this city are very exten
sive, including cotton and woolen goods, iron, prints,
and jewelry, some of these are of world fame, as for
instance, the Gorham Company's silver-ware factory,
the Providence Tool Company's works, and the Steam
Engine Company's, and Corliss Steam Engine Works.
60 wool and 100 cotton mills centre in this city.

Of public buildings worth mentioning, are the City
Hall, the County Court House, the Brown University,
founded in 1764 and containing over 50,000 volumes,
and many others. The Rhode Island Historical So
ciety has a valuable library and some interesting his
torical relics.

The Athenaeum contains a library of 38,000 vol
umes and some valuable paintings.

The Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument erected by
the State in memory of its 1,741 citizens who fell in
the civil war is an exceedingly fine structure. Of
charitable and educational institutions there is an
abundance in Providence. The drives in the suburbs,
etc., are very pretty. On the State Farm in Cranston
are the State Prison, Workhouse, House of Correction,
Almshouse and the Hospital for the Insane.

Rhode Island, " Little Rhody," is one of the 13
original States and smallest in the Union 5 supposed
temporary settlement by Icelanders as early as 1000 5

— 234 —

settled by Roger Williams at Providence, 1636; last of
the 13 colonies to ratify the Constitution, which it did
in 1790.

Area, 1,250 square miles; extreme length, north
and south, 47 miles; extreme width, 40 miles. Good
harbors at Providence, Bristol, Warren and Newport,
the latter one of the finest in the world.

Temperature at Newport: winter, 29° to 43° ;
summer, 64° to 71°; rainfall, 42 inches.

U. S. customs districts at Newport, Providence,
Bristol and Warren. Population of Lincoln, 17,269; of
Pawtucket, 22,894; of Warwick, 13,284, and of
Woonsocket, 16,145.

Number of farms, 6,216. Hay is the most valua
ble crop. It outranks, in proportion to its size, all
other States in value of manufactures. Number of
looms, 30,274; spindles, 1,649,295, using 161,694
bales of cotton and giving employment to 22,228
persons. Ranks second in cotton, flax and linen
goods.

Population, 303,816, incl. 7,127 Colored, 27
Chinese, and 77 Indians.

Persons without property to the value of $134, ex
cluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 1 ; Browns University, at
Providence, founded 1764; common school system ex
cellent; school age, 5-15.

Resuming my journey, I arrived at the capital of
Massachusetts and chief city of New England, the
pretty city of Boston, situated at the W. extremity of

— 235 —

Massachusetts Bay, in latitude 42° N. and longitude
71° W.

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev.
John Blackstone, arrived in 1623. In 1635 Mr.
Blaekstone sold his claim to the peninsula, on which
Boston proper stands, to John Winthrop, afterward the
first Governor of Massachusetts for £30, and removed
to Rhode Island. The first church was built in 1632 ;
the first wharf in 1673.

The city was incorporated in 1822, with a popu
lation of 45,000, which had increased to 362,839 (in
cluding the suburbs of Brighton, Charleston and W.
Roxbury) in 1880. On the 9th of November 1872,
one of the most terrible conflagrations ever known in
America, swept away the principal business portion of
Boston. The district burnt over extended from the
heart of the city to the harbor. About 775 of the
finest buildings were destroyed, causing a loss of $70,-
000,000.

The Indian name of the peninsula was Shawm ut,
meaning " Sweet Waters." It was called by the ear
lier settlers Trimountain or Tremont. It embraces
Boston proper, East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury,
Dorchester, Charleston, Brighton and West Roxbury,
containing in all about 22,000 acres. The city is con
nected by several bridges with the above mentioned
places. The harbor is a spacious indentation of Massa
chusetts Bay, embracing 75 square miles, including
several arms. There are more than 50 islands or islets
in the harbor.

— 236 —

The Common, a park in the heart of the city, con
sidered to date from 1634, is a very attractive spot
with the ancient and historic Frog Pond, the Soldiers
monument, and several fine fountains on the grounds.
The Public Garden contains Washington's noble eques
trian statue, the statues of Edward Everett, Charles Sum-
ner, and of u Venus rising from the Sea," and the monu
ment in honor of the discovery of ether as an anaes
thetic.

The State House, on whose terrace in the front are
statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, and on
the entrance floor the statue of Governor Andrewr,
busts of Samuel Adams, Lincoln and Sumner and a
collection of battle-flags, and in the Rotunda the statue
of Washington, copies of the tombstones of the
Washington family in Brington church-yard, England,
is a very fine building.

The Anthenseum is one of the best endowed institu
tions in the world, and the library of the American Ac
ademy of Arts and Sciences, in the same building, con
tains 15,000 volumes. On Louisburg Square are statues
of Columbus and Aristides, and the Park Square contains
the bronze group, "Emancipation."

The Society of Natural History has valuable cabin
ets and a library of 12,000 volumes, the Boston Public
Library 450,000, and the famous Tosti collection of
engravings. The Museum of Fine Arts contains
Egyptian antiquities, statuary, casts and one of the
richest collections of paintings and engravings in the
country. The Masonic Temple, the Massachusetts

— 237 —

Charitable Mechanics' Association Building, and the
New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' Institute,
and the Institute of Technology, deserve to be men
tioned.

There are numerous churches in Boston, and the
Trinity Church (Episcopal), is one of the largest, finest,
and most splendidly decorated cfiurches in America,
the Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Cross, and the old
and new South Churches rank next to it.

Faneuil Hall is the most interesting building in the
Union, next to Independence Hall, Philadelphia. This
famous edifice, the u cradle of liberty," was erected in
1742 and presented to the town by Peter Faneuil, a
Hugnenot merchant. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it
was rebuilt in 1768 and enlarged to its present dimensi
ons in 1805. In it are the portraits of the founder,
Washington, Samuel Adams, J. C. Adams, Webster,
Everett, Lincoln, Governor Andrew, Henry Wilson,
Charles Sunnier. The U. S. Custom House, the City
Hall, with statues of Benjamin Franklin and Quincy,
the New Post Office and Sub-Treasury, not yet com
pleted, Horticultural Hall, Odd-Fellows' Hall, Music
Hall, with 3,000 seats, and several business buildings
are fine and spacious structures. There are a great many
public and private educational institutions in Boston.

Boston University, founded in 1869 by Isaac Rich,
bequeated by this Philanthropist with $2,000,000, is
well-known, arid the new building of the Young Men's
Christian Association is considered to be the finest of
its kind in the world. The Massachusetts Historical

— 238 —

Society has a library of 25,000 volumes, manuscripts,
coins, maps, charts, portraits and historical relics.

On the old North Burying-Ground, on Copp's Hill,
lie the three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. In
crease, Cotton, and Samuel Mather.

Of charitable institutions there are too many in Bos
ton to be specially named.

The Soldiers' Home is located in Chelsea, and near
by is the U. S. Naval Hospital.

The environs of Boston are remarkably artractive.
Charlestown, Brighton, Jamaica Plain, and W. Roxbury,
Dorchester and Roxbury were annexed and now form
part of the city. At Charlestown is the famous
u Bunker Hill Monument," commemorative of the
eventful battle fought on the spot, June 17, 1775. The
U. S. Navy- Yard is also located here. Nantasket
Beach is a celebrated summer resort in the vicinity.

In Brookline is the Brookline Reservoir, and about
1 mile distant from here, the Chestnut Hill Reservoir,
both with colossal capacities.

Cambridge, one of the two most renowned of the
American academic cities, contains the Harvard Uni
versity, the oldest and most richly endowed institution
of learning in the United States. Its library numbers
160,000 volumes. Near the college yard are the Zoo
logical Museum, the Botanical Garden, containing a
valuable herbarium and the Observatory.

On the Common, near by, stands a monument in
honor of the soldiers who fell in the civil war, and not
far from it, the Shepard Memorial Church, erected in

_ 239 —

lionor of Thomas Shepard, who was pastor at Cam
bridge from 1635 to 1649.

In front of the latter is the famous Washington Elm,
beneath which Washington assumed the command of
the American army in 1775, and which is thought to
be 300 'years old. Many structures built before the
Revolution are still standing, among them the house
used by Washington for his headquarters and recently
inhabited by the poet Longfellow, and Elmwood, the
home of James Russell Lowell. Mount Auburn Ceme
tery is one of the most beautiful and ancient burial-
places in America.

Waltham, 10 miles distant from Boston, a nourish
ing manufacturing village, of 11,711 inhabitants, on
the Charles River, is noted as the site of the Waltham
Watch Company 7s Works, which are the most extensive
in the world. The first cotton-mill in the U. S. was
erected at Waltham in 1814.

I made Boston my headquarters for the frequent
excursions to different parts of this State and the
neighboring State of New Hampshire, beginning with
the exploration «of the cotton-manufacture region.

After visiting Lowell with 59,485 inhabitants, situ
ated on the Merrimac, at the mouth of the Concord,
and one of the most noted manufacturing cities in the
Union and whose prosperity is ascribed to the water
power from the Pawtucket Falls in the Merrimac, I
started for Lawrence, also a very prosperous large
manufacturing city with 39,178 inhabitants and great
water power from the Merrimac. Its leading manufact-

— 240 —

ures are cotton cloth, woolens, shawls, paper, files and
flour. The vast mills are separated by a canal which
distributes the water power.

South Lawrence across the river is a busy manu
facturing suburb.

Fall Kiver was next visited. It contains* 49,006
population and extensive manufactures of cotton-cloth,
there being more spindles in operation than in any
other American city.

Taunton, another nourishing manufacturing city
with 21,213 inhabitants, and Qaincy, a beautiful old
town, noteworthy as the home of the Adams and Quincy
families, followed, and after collecting authentic statistics
about the cotton and wool industries in that region, I
travelled to the boot and shoe manufacturing district.

Lynn, with 45,861 inhabitants, situated on the
shore of Massachusetts Bay and surrounded by pleasing
sceneries, is famous for its extensive manufactures of
boots and shoes, it also contains a costly Soldiers'
Monument and a very fine City Hall.

Worcester, the second city in Massachusetts in
wealth and population, is a vast manufacturing centre,
also a great railroad centre. Its population is now
estimated at 75,000. Its principal manufactures are of
boots and shoes, machinery and tools, a great variety of
metal and wood products, stone-ware, jewelry, carpets,
etc.

The principal staple is iron and steel wire, which in
2 establishments alone gives employment to over 4,000
workmen.

— 241 —

The city is regularly laid out with wide streets and
the Union R. R. Depot is one of the largest in New
England. The American Antiquarian Society contains
a library of 60,000 volumes and a valuable cabinet of
antiquities, and the Free Public Library 70,000 volumes.

The Lyceum and Natural History Society has inter
esting collections. The Worcester Academy, the Oread
Institute for young ladies, the Highland Military
Academy, the State Normal School, the Catholic College
of the Holy Cross, and the Free Institute of Industrial
Science are institutions of great fame, and the State
Lunatic Asylum, a vast stone structure of great
dimensions.

The beautifully situated city of Haverhill ranks in
its leading industry of shoemaking next to Lynn. The
city contains 18,475 inhabitants and a library of
20,000 volumes. 1 mile N. E. of Haverhill is Lake
Kenoza, a pretty little lake, named and celebrated by
the poet Whittier, who was born in Haverhill in 1807.

After a brief stay in Boston to which I had returned,
I went to Springfield, noted for its great variety of its
industries. In 1880 its population was 33,340, it is
situated on the Connecticut river, is well built, and its
wide streets are shaded with elms and maples. The
U. S. Arsenal, the Court House and the building of the
City Library (with 48,000 volumes, and a Museum of
Natural History), and the City Hall, containing a pub
lic hall seating 2,700 persons, are well worth visiting.
The Arsenal is the greatest in the United States.

There are also some fine churches in Worcester.

16

— 242 —

From Boston, 16 miles distant, is the venerable
town of Salem with 28,000 inhabitants, the site of the
first permanent settlement of the old Massachusetts col
ony. The year 1692 is remarkable in the history of
the city, being the date of the witchcraft delusion at
Salem village, now a part of Danvers, for which several
persons were tried and executed. In the Court-House
are deposited the documents that relate to these curious
trials. The house is still standing in which some of
the preliminary examinations were made. The place
of execution is in the western part of the city, an em
inence overlooking the city, harbor and surrounding
shores, and known as Gallows Hill. Plummer Hall is
a handsome building, containing the library of the Salem
Athena3um (14,000 volumes), and that of the Essex
Institute (25,000 volumes, and a large collection of
manuscripts, pamphlets, and various historical relics).
East India Marine Hall contains the large and rare
ethnological museum of the East India Marine Society,
and rare natural history collections of the Essex Insti
tute. Peabody Institute, in which are deposited many
interesting works of art, and the various memorials of
the founder, the great Philanthropist, George Peabody,
of which may be mentioned the portrait of Queen Vic
toria, the Congress Medal, etc. A short distance from
the Institute is the house in which Mr. Peabody was
born, and in Harmony Grove Cemetery not far from
there is his grave.

Amherst, noted for its college, is charmingly situ
ated. Its population is 4,000, and the leading interest

— 243 —

paper manufacturing. Amherst College was founded
in 1821, and is one of the high-standing institutions of
New England. The college collections in zoology,
botany, geology, mineralogy, etc., are among the rich
est in the country. The Shepard cabinet of minerals
is of immense value and is said to be surpassed only
by those of the British Museum and the Imperial Cab
inet at Vienna; and the collection of 20,000 specimens
of ancient tracks of birds, beasts and reptiles in stone
is without a rival. The Massachusetts Agricultural
College possesses the famous Durfee Plant-House, con
taining many rare and beautiful plants. It was found
ed in 1866 and has become the most successful agri
cultural school in the United States.

On a side-excursion I arrived at Mount Holyoke,
the "Gem of the Massachusetts Mountains." From the
Prospect House, on the top of this mountain, 1,120 ft.
above the sea, and where an observatory is, the view
is magnificent.

Per Boston, Hoosac Tunnel and Western E. R.,
the famous Hoosac Tunnel, 136 miles from Boston, was
reached. It is next to that under Mt. Cenis, the long
est in the world, and is one of the most wonderful and
costly engineering.

New Bedford, the greatest whaling port in the
world, with 33,393 inhabitants, and Plymouth, a
manufacturing village, with 7,000 inhabitants, on Cape
Cod Bay, were also visited. The interest of Plymouth
is chiefly historical, and it will be forever famous as
the landing place of the Pilgrim Fathers, on December

— 244 —

22, 1620, and as the site of the first settlement made in
New England. Plymouth Rock, on which the Pilgrims
first landed, is covered by a handsome canopy of gra
nite, in the attic of which are inclosed the bones of
several men who died during the first year of the
settlement. A portion of the rock has been placed in
front of Pilgrim Hall, and surrounded by an iron fence.
Pilgrim Hall contains a large hall, the public library,
busts and portraits, and many interesting relics of the
Mayflower Pilgrims and other early settlers of Massa
chusetts. The National Monument to the Pilgrims
consists of a granite pedestal 40 ft. high, surrounded
by statues 20 ft. high, and is surmounted by a colossal
granite statue of " Faith," 40 ft. high.

The environs of Plymouth arc very attractive.

On this occasion — I was then in Boston — I consider
it my sacred duty to pay my tributes of everlasting
gratitude to the than Mayor of the City of Boston, Mr.
O'Brien, to Ex-Governor Robinson, Legislator Resi-
novsky, Reverend Schindler, author of several impor
tant works, to Professor Morse, whom I had already
seen in Japan, to the Secretary of the Imperial German
Consulate, Mr. Lagrege, and to several Professors of
the Harvard University, especially Professor Asa Gray,
whose death is a great loss to the scientific world.

I cannot find words for the interpretation of my feel
ings toward these generous and kind-hearted men, for
the hospitality and the many favors shown to me during
my stay in Boston.

Massachusetts, the "Old Bay State,7' is one of the

— 245 —

13 original States. First settlement made by English
Puritans, at Plymouth 1620.

Area, 8,315 square miles ; length, northeast and
southwest, 160 miles, breadth, 47 to 100 miles.

Temperature at Boston : winter, 27° to 38° ; sum
mer, 66° to 71°; rainfall, 45 inches.

Number of farms, 38,406 ; average value per acre,
cleared land, $85 ; woodland, $43.25.

Hay, the most valuable crop. Ranks first in cot
ton, woolen and worsted goods, and in cod and
mackerel fisheries, owning over half of the fishing ves
sels of the U. S., and second in wealth and commerce.

Population 1,941,465, including 20,361 Colored,
229 Chinese, 8 Japanese and 369 Indians.

Number of quarries, 113; ports of entry, 9; cus
toms districts, 11. First American newspaper, Boston,
1690; first freight railroad in United States, Quincy;
first American library at Harvard College. Number of
colleges, 7 ; education compulsory ; schools excellent ;
school age, 5-15.

Nashua was the first place visited in the State of
New Hampshire. It it a pretty manufacturing city of
13,397 inhabitants, situated at the confluence of the
Merrimac and Nashua Rivers.

17 miles distant from Nashua is the largest city of
New Hampshire, Manchester, with a population cf
32,630 and extensive manufactures, chiefly of prints.

The immense factories are on the canal and the
water-power is furnished by this canal around the
Amoskeag Falls of the Merrimac. The public library

— 246 —

contains 20,000 volumes. In the city are a number of
neat public squares and several fine churches.

9 miles beyond Manchester is Hooksett, with ex
tensive brick-yards and several cotton-factories, and at
the same distance from the latter, Concord, the capital
of New Hampshire, on the sloping W. bank of the
Merrimac River, handsomely built and with wide
streets and an abundance of trees. Concord is famous
for the superior quality of the granite quarried in its
vicinity, and its celebrated carriage-manufactories. It
contains 18,838 inhabitants, and the State Capitol,
City Hall and Court House, the State Prison and the
Insane Asylum are beautiful structures.

The seat of Dartmouth College, one of the most
famous institutions of learning in America, is in Hanover.
It was founded in 1769; and Daniel Webster, Rufus
Choate and Chief Justice Chase wrere among its alumni.
The Reed Hall, one of the group of buildings of the
college, contains 50,000 volumes. The college in
cludes, besides the literary department, a medical
school and the New Hampshire College of Agriculture
and the Mechanic Arts.

I returned from an excursion to Portsmouth, the
only seaport of New Hampshire, standing upon a pen
insula on the S. side of Piscataqua river, and excepting
the narrow strip connecting it with the mainland, is en
tirely surrounded by water. The harbor is very deep
and in it are several islets. The city is an old tranquil
place with beautifully shaded streets and some old and
venerable churches and residences.

— 247 —

The tomb of Sir William Pepperell is here. On
Continental Island is the U. S. Navy Yard, admirably
located. The population is about 13,000.

The road leading to the neighboring State of Maine,
has densely populated districts and well-cultivated farm
lands on both sides, as well as factories, etc., and the
scenery around Portland has been declared by travelers
to be among the most enchanting in the world.

Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine,
picturesquely situated on a high peninsula at the S. W.
extremity of Casco Bay, is one of the most beautiful
cities in America. It was settled in 1632, and has had
a steady growth ; but on the 4th of July, 1866, a great
fire swept away half the business portion, destroying
over $10,000,000 worth of property. The entire dis-
drict destroyed by the fire has since been rebuilt. The
streets are profusely embellished with trees and the
population in 1880, was 33,810. The City Hall is
considered one of the largest and finest municipal struc
tures in the country.

The Post Office, Custom House, Marine Hospital
and some of the churches are imposing edifices. The
Society of Natural History has a fine collection of fishes,
birds, reptiles, shells and minerals; the library, 15,000
volumes. From the Observatory, on Munjoy's Hill, fine
views are obtained and the drives around the city are
excellent. The harbor is deep and spacious and is
dotted with lovely islands, and defended by 3 powerful
forts.

From here, the capital of Maine, Augusta, is 62

— 248 —

miles distant, and reached per Main Central and Knox
and Lincoln Railway. The first important place on
this road is Brunswick, a thriving town at the head of
tide-water on the Androscoggin river, noted as the seat
of Bowdoin College, whose gallery of paintings is fam
ous.

Beyond Brunswick the train crosses the Andros
coggin and runs into the center of the lumber industry,
Gardiner. On the banks of the Kennebec, 4 miles from
Gardiner, is Hallowell with extensive granite quarries
in the neighborhood and 2 miles distant, at the head of
navigation on the Kennebec, is Augusta, the capital of
the State of Maine. This city is beautifully situated
and has an abundance of shade-trees and shrubbery.

The State House, Court House, the State Insane
Asylum, and the Kennebec Arsenal are noteworthy
buildings.

I continued my travels in this State to Bangor, the
second city of Maine, and one of the greatest lumber-
markets in the world. Situated at the head of
navigation on the Penobscot river, 60 miles from the
ocean and containing 18,000 inhabitants, the city is
very wealthy and handsomely built. Ship-building is
carried on, and there is also a large business in roofing-
slates, potatoes, ice, hay, steam-boilers, moccasins and
machinery.

The granite Custom House and Post Office, the
Norombega Hall with seats for 2,000 persons, and the
Bangor Theological Seminary, and some of the churches
are handsome structures.

— 249 —

The " Pine Tree State," State of Maine, was settled
by the English at Bristol, 1624, and admitted, 1820.

Area, 33,040 square miles, extreme length, 300
miles; extreme breadth, 210 miles; shore line, over
2,400 miles, including islands ; the Penobscot, Andros-
coggin, Saco, St. Croix, Aroostook and St. John are
the most important rivers.

Temperature at Portland: winter, 23° to 38°;
summer, 63° to 69°. Rainfall at Brunswick, 45
inches.

Biddeford, an important manufacturing town, has
12,651 inhabitants, and Lewiston, the principal seat of
cotton manufactures, 19,083 population.

Number of farms, 64,309; average value per acre,
cleared land, $12.87 ; woodland, $12.66. Hay the most
valuable crop.

Lumbering, one of the chief industries, forests cover
ing over 10,000,000 acres; number of saw-mills, 848.
Fisheries give employment to 11,071 persons. Valu
able slate-quarries from the Kennebec to the Penobs
cot ; granite is obtained in blocks of immense size. The
State has 379 ship-building establishments.

Population, incl. 1,451 Colored, 8 Chinese, and 625
Indians, 648,936.

Number of colleges, 3; system of common, high
and normal schools excellent; of 519,969 persons, 10
years old and upward, 3.5 per cent, are unable to
read; school age, 4-21.

Returned to New York City, and remaining there
about 3 weeks; I started on the Pennsylvania Rail

— 250 —

Road to explore the State of Pennsylvania and traveled
direct to Philadelphia.

The city of Philadelphia was founded by William
Penn, who came over from England in 1682, accom
panied by a colony of Quakers, and purchased the site
from the Indians.

The emigration thither was very rapid and in 1684
the population was estimated at 2,500.

Penn presented the city with a charter in 1701.
It prospered greatly and was the most important city
in the country during the colonial period and for more
than a quarter of a century after the Revolution. The
first Continental Congress assembled here in 1774, as
did also the subsequent Congresses during the war.
The Declaration of Independence was made and issued
here, July 4, 1776. The Convention which formed
the Constitution of the Republic assembled here in
May, 1787. Here resided the first President of the
United States, and here Congress continued to meet
until 1797. Until 1799 it was the capital of the colony
and State of Pennsylvania, and from 1790 to 1800 was
the seat of the Government of the United States. The
city was in possession of the British from September,
1777, to June 1778, a result of the unfortunate battles
of Brandy wine and Germantown. Since the Revolu
tion the city has grown steadily and rapidly. The
population, which in 1800 was 67,811 has increased
to 846,984 in 1880. The commerce of Philadelphia is
large and increasing, but manufactures are its chief
source of wealth. In heavy manufactures Philadelphia

— 251 —

is only approached by Pittsburg. The leading indus
tries are the manufacture of locomotives and all kind
of iron-ware, ships, carpets, woolen and cotton goods,
shoes, umbrellas, and books. In commerce Philadel
phia ranks very high among the cities of the United
States.

The city contains numberless fine and extensive
public and private buildings, among which are of
special note, the Merchants Exchange, the U. S. Cus
tom House, the Provident Life and Trust Company's,
the Philadelphia Trust Company's, the Farmers and
Mechanic's Bank, the Philadelphia Bank, the Pennsyl
vania Life Insurance Company's, the costly buildings
of the Fidelity Safe Deposit Company, the First Na
tional Bank and the Guarantee Trust and Safe De
posit Company.

Of extraordinary interest is: Independence Hall.
In the Hall, the Continental Congress met, and here on
July 4, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was
adopted and publicly proclaimed from the steps on the
same day. The " Liberty Bell," the first bell rung in
the United States after the passage of Declaration, is
preserved in the Hall. In Congress Hall, in the sec
ond story, Washington delivered his farewell address.
Carpenter's Hall, where in 1774 the first Congress of
the United Colonies assesmbled, is also of great in
terest.

Other noteworthy public buildings and educational
and charitable institutions are: the Philadelphia Li
brary, founded in 1731 through the influence of Ben-

959

jamin Franklin, whose grave is in the neighborhood,
the Pennsylvania Hospital, the Post Office, Mercantile
Library, U. S. Mint, the Academy of Natural Sciences,
the Ridgway Library, Academy of Music, Public Build
ings (for law-courts and public offices), the Union
League Club, Masonic Temple, the Girard College,
the University of Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania Hospi
tal for the Insane, the Eastern Penitentiary and the U.
S. Naval Asylum, and hundred others.

Among the many churches of Philadelphia, Christ
Church, the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, and
the Synagogue Eodef Shalom deserve special mention
as does Baptist Beth-Eden Church.

The Academy of Natural Sciences contains a library
of 26,000 volumes and extensive collections in zoology,
ornithology, geology, mineralogy, conchology, ethno
logy, archaeology and botany. The museum contains
about 250,000 specimens, and Agassiz pronounced it
one of the finest natural science collections in the
world.

On Washington Square, a public park in the heart
of the city, nearly every variety of tree that will grow
in this climate, whether indigenous or not, is contained
and not far from here is the Athenaeum, with a library
of 25,000 volumes. An other famous institution is
Jefferson Medical College, and the Academy of Fine
Arts has an excellent collection of pictures, statuary,
casts, etc.

Fairmount Park is the largest city park in the
world, extends along both banks of the Schuylkill

— 253 —

river for more than 7 miles and along both banks of
the Wissahickon Creek for more than 6 miles and em
bracing a total area of 2,740 acres. Fairmount Hill
is the site of 4 reservoirs of the Schuylkill Water-
Works, for the supply of the city, and the Zoological
Gardens in the Park contain a fine assortment of Am
erican and European animals.

Memorial Hall, a splendid edifice of stone, was
used as an art gallery during the Exposition in 1876
and is designed for a permanent art and industrial col
lection. The Horticultural Building, also in the Park,
is a conversatory filled with tropical and other plants
and around it are 35 acres of ground devoted to horti
cultural purposes. Laurel Hill, adjoining the upper
part of East Fairmount Park is one of the most beauti
ful cemeteries in the country.

I made Philadelphia my starting-point for the ex
cursions into the interior of this State, and bound en
route to Pottsville, I visited Valley Forge, memorable
as the headquarters of General Washington and the
American army during the dismal winter of 1777.

The building occupied by Washington is still stand
ing near the railroad. 4 miles from the latter place,
in Phoenix ville, a flourishing town of 7,000 inhabitants,
I had occasion to see the Phoenix Iron Works, the
largest in America, and several rolling-mills and fur
naces.

Beyond Phcenixville the train traverses a tunnel
2,000 ft. long and passes through Pottstown, a pretty
village, crossing the Manatawny Creek and runs to

— 254 —

Reading, the third city in Pennsylvania in manufac
tures and with a population of 43,280 in 1880. It is
pleasantly situated on an elevated and ascending plain,
backed E. by Penn's Mountain and S. by the Never-
sink Mountain, from both of which flow streams of pure
water, abundantly supplying the city. Of public
buildings the following are noteworthy : the Court
House, City Hall, the Grand Opera House, Academy
of Music, and the County Prison.

Among the 31 churches, the Trinity and the
Christ Church are the most imposing. There is a
large trade in the city, the same being surrounded by
a rich farming country. Most of the inhabitants of
this district are of German origin, and a dialect of
German, known as Pennsylvania Dutch, still prevails
to sonic extent. The production and working of iron
holds the first rank in the manufactures of this place.
There are some interesting resorts in the vicinity.

At Reading the route is intersected by the Allen-
town line, and runs to the city of Allentown, a thriving
city of 18,000 inhabitants, built upon an eminence be
tween Jordan Creek and Lehigh River. The County
Court House and County Prison are handsome edifices
and several of the school-buildings are noteworthy.
Muhlenberg College is a fine institute, and Mammoth
Rock, 1,000 ft. high, and several mineral springs near
the city, are interesting points. In Betlchem, not far
from Allentown, is the chief seat of the Moravians, or
United Brethren, who settled here under Count Zinzen-
dorf in 1741. The Moravian Female Seminary,

— 255 —

founded in 1749, has a high reputation. The Lehigh
University founded in 1865 and liberally endowed by
Asa Packer, and in which tuition in all branches is
free, stands high amongst the educational institutions
in the country. It has 10,000 inhabitants and most
of the old Moravian buildings are in fair state of pre
servation.

Returning over the same road, I proceeded on my
journey to the famous, world-renown Cornwall Ore
Banks, touching Lebanon, on the Swatara River and
with 7,000 inhabitants. The Cornwall Ore Banks are
three hills formed of masses of iron-ore, and called
Grassy, Middle and Big Hill. It has been estimated
that Big Hill contains 40 million tons of ore above the
surface of the ground, yielding 70 . per cent, of pure
iron. Veins of copper are found among the iron, and
6 miles from Lebanon, near the Swatara River, are
quarries of fine gray marble.

Resuming my journey to the heart of the Pennsyl
vania coal-region, I reached the little village of Mauch
Chunk. It lies in a narrow gorge between and among
high mountains, its foot resting on the Lehigh River
and its body lying along the hillsides, in the midst of
some of the wildest and most picturesque scenery in
America.

The village is but one street wide, and the valley
is so narrow that the dwelling-houses usually have their
gardens and outhouses perched above the roof, and
there is barely room for the 2 railroads, river, street
and canal, which pass through the gorge side by side.

— 256 —

Some fine views are obtained from the Flagstaff Peak.
2 miles from the village, on Broad Mountain, is a wild
and beautiful ravine, 2,700 ft. long and from 120 to
240 ft. wide, presenting a continuous succession of cas
cades, rapids, and pools. The coal trains passing
through the village every day, and the constant pro
cession of canal boats laden with coal are almost
numberless. The coal mines which supply this traffic
are situated in the Wyoming, Hazelton, Beaver
Meadow, Mahanoy, and Lehigh regions, on Sharp and
Black Mountains. The "Switch Back," used only as
a pleasure road, is run by gravity. The cars are
drawn to the top of Mount Pisgah by a powerful engine
on the summit, whence they descend 6 miles, by
gravity, to the foot- of Mount Jefferson, where they are
again taken up by means of a plane, which ascends
462 ft. in a length of 2,070 ft. and then run on the
Summit Hill. From that point the cars return, all the
way, by the " Back Track,77 or gravity road, to Mauch
Chunk, landing the passengers but a short distance
from the spot where they commenced the ascent over
Mount Pisgah. After a close inspection of these and
other coal mines in that region, I returned to Phila
delphia for the purpose of assorting my mineral and
geological collection, and to rectify my table of statis
tics, and dispatching specimens to Europe.

This done, I started for Gettysburg, 136 miles from
Philadelphia. It is a town of 2,800 inhabitants and is
pleasantly situated on a fertile plain, surrounded by
hills. The Pennsylvania College and the Lutheran

— 257 —

Theological Seminary are among the institutions of the
place. The former has a library of 18,300 volumes
and in the library of the latter are 10,100 volumes.
Near by are the Gettysburg Springs with Katalysine
waters. The chief interest of Gettysburg is historic.
A great battle, perhaps the most important of the civil
war, was fought here on the 1st, 2d and 3d of July,
1863, between the National forces under General
Meade and the Confederate army under General Lee.
Cemetery Hill forms the central and most striking
feature of Gettysburg. Here were the Union head
quarters, and about a mile distant is Seminary Ridge,
on which were General Lee's headquarters and the
bulk of the Confederate forces. The National Cemetery,
containing the remains of the Union soldiers who fell
in the battle of Gettysburg, was dedicated with imposing
ceremonies, and an impressive address by President
Lincoln, on November 19, 1863. A Soldiers' Monu
ment, dedicated July 4, 1868, occupies the crown of
the hill, is 60 ft. high, and is surmounted by a colossal
marble statue of Liberty. At the base of the pedestal
are 4 buttresses bearing colossal marble statues of War,
History, Peace, and Plenty. Around the monument
are arranged the graves of the dead. The number of
bodies interred here is 3,564, of which 944 have not been
identified. Near the entrance to the Cemetery is the
bronze statue of Major-General Reynolds, who was
killed in the battle. Opposite the cemetery is an
observatory, 60 ft. high, from which a fine view of the
entire battle-field and surrounding country is obtained.

— 258 —

York, situated on the Codorus Creek, and contain
ing 14,000 inhabitants, is on the road to Harrisburg.
It was settled in 1741, incorporated in 1787, and the
Continental Congress sat here from September 30, 1777,
to July 1778. During the Confederate invasion of
Pensylvania in 1863, it was occupied by Early, who
levied a contribution of $100,000 on the citizens, but
left the place unharmed. York contains several large
car-shops, some of the most extensive manufactories of
agricultural implements in the country, a shoe and a
match factory, and the Codorus paper-mills. After
traversing York for some distance, the train descends
into the rich Codorus valley, and from Bridgeport a
long bridge crosses the Susquehanna river to Harris-
burg, the capital of the State, beautifully situated on
the E. bank of the Susquehanna river. The city is hand
somely built and lies in midst a magnificent scenery.

The State House contains in its library 30,000
volumes and cabinets of curiosities, and on the grounds
is a beautiful monument, commemorating the soldiers
who fell in the Mexican War. The State Arsenal,
Court House, and the State Lunatic Asylum are spac
ious and imposing buildings. The iron manufactures of
Harrisburg are extensive, and 6 important railways
converge here.

At the head of the Tuckahoe Valley and at the foot
of the Alleghanies is Altoona, a pretty city of 20,000 in
habitants, built up since 1850, when it was a primtive
forest, by being selected as the site of the large machine-
shops of the Pensylvania R. R.

- 259

Just beyond Altoona the asceltf of the Alleghanies
begins, and for the next 10 to 11 miles some of the
most brilliant scenery and marvellous engineering on
the whole line are to be seen. The road mounts
within this distance to the tunnel at the summit by so
steep a grade that, while in the ascent double power is
required to move the train, the entire distance of descent
is run without steam, the speed of the train being regu
lated by the brakes.

The curves at some points are very short and the
road hugs the sides of the mountains. The summit
of the mountain is pierced by a tunnel 3,612 ft. long,
through which the train passes before commencing to
descend the W. slope.

Cresson Springs, 24 miles beyond the tunnel, are
3,000 ft. above the sea. The waters of the 7 springs
are famous for their curative virtues. The climate is
excellent and the thermometer rarely reaches 75° dur
ing the hottest summer month. In descending the
mountains from Cresson Springs the stream, almost
continuously in sight, is the Conemaugh Creek, which
is crossed by a stone viaduct near Conemaugh Station,
the terminus of the mountain division of the road.

3 miles from the station is Johnstown, a busy manu
facturing borough at the confluence of the Conemaugh
and Stony Creeks. The Cambria Iron- Works near by,
are among the most extensive in the United States.
70 miles from here is Pittsburg, the second city of
Pennsylvania in population and importance, and one of
the chief manufacturing cities in America. Situated

— 260 —

at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela
rivers, which here form the Ohio, the city occupies the
delta between the two rivers and has about 190,000
inhabitants. 9 bridges span the Alleghany river and
5 the Monongahela. From its situation, Pittsburg en
joys excellent commercial facilities and is the center of
an extensive commerce with the Western States and
Territories ; while its vicinity to the inexhaustible iron
and coal mines of the State made it a great manufactur
ing center. The extent of its steel, glass, and iron
manufactures has given it the name of "Iron City,"
while the heavy pall of smoke that constantly over
hangs it has caused it to be styled the "Smoky City."
The manufactories of iron, steel, and glass in Pittsburg
have immense dimensions. 35,000 hands are em
ployed in the 3 mentioned interests j some of the works
employing from 1,000 to 3,000 hands each. In the
coal and coke interests of the city over 20,000 people
are constantly employed.

Among the public buildings are the Municipal
Hall, the Custom House and Post Office, the U. S.
Arsensal, and the New Court House, in course of
erection, the most prominent.

Of the 170 churches, the most imposing is the
Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, and Trinity
Church (Episcopal). The Mercantile library contains
17,000 volumes and in the same building are the col
lections of the Pittsburg Art Association. The Pitts
burg Female College and the Pennsylvania Female
College are flourishing institutions. The Western

— 261 —

Pennsylvania Hospital, the City General Hospital, the
Homseopathic Hospital, Mercy Hospital, the Episcopal
Church Home, the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy,
the oldest house of the order in America, and the
Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, are the principal
charitable institutions in the city. The new Riverside
Penitentiary, the Passionist Monastery of St. Paul, and
the Franciscan Convent are at Manchester, 2 miles be
low Pittsburg, now a part of Allegheny City.

Since the introduction of Natural Gas and its supply
to the great iron and glass works of Pittsburg, instead
of other costly fuel, the manufacturing and commercial
prosperity of that city has entered upon a new era,
which places it on a level with some of the largest
cities in the United States. The Natural-Gas industry
in Western Pennsylvania, especially in Pittsburg,
where the gas is also used for domestic purposes, has
rapidly developed and promises to become a source of
immense value.

The so-called coal-fields of Pittsburg comprise an
area of 15,000 square miles and, according to asser
tions made by famous geologists in the State of Penn
sylvania, will not exhaust in a thousand years. The
coal trade in Pittsburg can almost be called its
speciality, but not only coal, in its crude state, is it,
that gives it such importance, the manufacture of coke
adds greatly to the interests of this wealthy and unique
city in the Universe.

Though coke has been an important product of
Western Pennsylvania as far back as 60 years, its

— 262 —

present importance has gradually developed itself
within the last 20 years.

The chief area of the coke industry is centred in
and around Conncllsville, 30 to 50 miles from Pitts
burg, in Alleghany, Westmoreland, and Fayette Coun
ties, but is directed by Pittsburg iirms. During my
stay in Pittsburg I had received many favors and
valuable services of the Austrian Consul Mr. Scham-
berg, the well-known State Geologist, Professor Chas.
A. Ashburner, and the Attorney, Mr. Josiah Cohen,
and I herewith express my heartfelt thanks to them.

Allegheny City, opposite Pittsburg, with which it
is connected by 9 bridges, is situated on the W. bank
of the Alleghany River. Its manufacturing interests
are large. In L880 the city had a population of 78,-
681. The finest church in the city is St. Peter's
(Catholic), and there are several Theological Seminar
ies. The Western University formerly in Pittsburg
has a valuable geological and natural-history collection.
The Allegheny Observatory is a department of this
institution. The Allegheny General Hospital is the
principal hospital, and the Soldiers Monument, erected
to the memory of the 4,000 men of Alleghany County
who lost their lives in the civil war, is very graceful.

In the center of the Wyoming Valley, picturesquely
situated on the Susquehanna, river, is Wilkesbarrc, a
prosperous city of 23,393 inhabitants, with handsome
public and private buildings. There are several fine
churches and a good library in the city.

9 miles beyond Wilkesbarre is Pittson, on the Sus-

— 263 —

quehanna, W. of the town are the Lackawannock
Mountains filled with rich coal mines which here find
an outlet.

From this latter place I traveled to Oil City, the
center and headquarters of the Oil Region. It is
situated on the Alleghany river at the mouth of Oil
Creek. Its population is 8,000 and, though not par
ticularly attractive, is interesting on account of wit
nessing the various operations of obtaining, refining,
barreling, gauging and shipping the precious petrol
eum. The wells in the vicinity yield 600 barrels
daily, and about two million barrels are annually sent
thence to market.

The great iron tanks for storing the oil are worth
visiting.

18 miles beyond Oil City, on the road to Buffalo, is
Titusville, a city of 10,000 inhabitants and the largest
place in the Oil Regions. It is situated in a broad
and beautiful valley, through which flows Oil Creek.
The city is nicely built and owes its rapid growth and
prosperity mainly to the oil wells in the vicinity, which
are very productive 5 and here are the capacious re
fineries of the Standard Oil Company. Besides the
oil- works there are extensive iron- works, foundries and
machine-shops, and various other manufactories.

Before concluding my six weeks travels through
the State, I visited Scranton and Carbondale. Scran-
ton is a flourishing city, occupying the plateau at the
confluence of Roaring Brook and the Lackawanna
river.

— 264 —

It is handsomely laid out and has 45,850 inhabi
tants. Its importance is due to its situation in the
most northern of the anthracite basins, and to its rail
road facilities. The trade in mining supplies is ex
tensive, and the shipments of coal are immense. Its
iron manufactures are very important, and there are
large blast-furnaces, rolling-mills, foundries, machine-
shops, etc.

Carbon dale has 8,000 inhabitants and is at the N.
end of the anthracite coal region, near several ex
tremely rich coal-mines. The chief object of interest
here is the Gravity Railroad, a series of inclined planes
on which immense coal-trains are sent over the moun
tains to and from Honesdale, on the Delaware and
Hudson Canal, with no impelling force but gravity,
save at one point.

The Keystone State, Pennsylvania, one of the 13 or
iginal States, is named in honor of William Penn, the
grantee. First permanent settlement made by Swedes
at Chester, 1638.

Area, 45,215 square miles; extreme length, 303
miles; greatest breadth, 176 miles.

Largest rivers, Delaware, Susquehanna, Alleghany,
Monongahela, Ohio.

Temperature at Philadelphia: winter, 31° to 42° ;
summer, 70° to 75°; rainfall, 44 inches.

Philadelphia founded 1682 ; second city in the
United States. Philadelphia, Pittsburg and Erie are
ports of entry.

Number of farms, 156;357, averaging about 100

— 265 —

acres each ; average value per acre, cleared land, $45.-
75; woodland, $29.75.

Manufacture of pig iron the greatest industry;
number of manufacturing establishments, 10,381; flour
and grist-mills, 2,873 ; iron and steel works, 321 ;
sawed lumber, 2,826 ; paper-mills, 78 ; woolen-goods, 324.

Anthracite coal field in central division; bitumin
ous in west and southwest. Produces all the anthracite
and more than half the bituminous coal of the United
States. Ranks first in rye, iron and steel, petroleum
and coal; second in buckwheat, potatoes and printing
and publishing.

Population of 4,282,891 includes 85,535 Colored,
148 Chinese, 8 Japanese and 184 Indians.

Non-tax payers and political bribers excluded from
voting.

Number of colleges, 26 ; enrolled in public schools,
945,345; school age, 6-21.

On the route from Philadelphia to Baltimore, Mary
land, the city of Chester, the seat of the famous ship
building establishment of the late John Roach, is pass
ed. Chester has 14,996 inhabitants and is interesting
as the spot where in September, 1777, the battle on
the banks of the Brandy wine was fought. 14 miles
from Chester is the city of Wilmington, Delaware, the
most important in that State, with a population of 42,-
500, and various and extensive manufactures, embrac
ing ship-building, car-factories, cotton and woolen
manufactures, flour-mills, powder-mills, and shoe and
leather factories, The city is nicely laid out and con-

— 266 —

tains several fine public and private buildings and
handsome churches.

At Havre de Grace, the Susquehanna river is
crossed on a lofty iron bridge nearly a mile long, and
Baltimore is entered into. Baltimore is the chief city
of Maryland and in population and commerce one of
the most important in the Union. It is picturesquely
situated on the N. branch of the Patapsco river, 14
miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay, and about
200 miles from the ocean. Jones's Falls, a small
stream running N. and S., spanned by several bridges,
divides the city into two nearly equal parts known as
East and West Baltimore.

The harbor is capacious and safe, consisting of an
inner basin and an outer harbor accessible to the larg
est ships. The entrance is defended by Fort McHenry,
which was unsuccessfully bombarded by the British
fleet in the war of 1812.

The present site of Baltimore was chosen in 1729
and its name was given it in 1745, in honor of Lord
Baltimore, the proprietary of Maryland. The charter
of the city dates from 1797. The population which at
that time was 26,000, had increased by 1860 to 212,-
418, and in 1880 it had reached 332,190. The com
merce of the city is very large, and through the two
rail roads of the Baltimore and Ohio and the Northern
Central, the city is successfully competing for the trade
of the north and northwest. Large shipments of grain
are made to Europe, and tobacco, cotton, petroleum,
bacon, butter, cheese and lard, are also exported.

— 267 —

Baltimore is the chief point for working the rich
copper-ores of Lake Superior, and produces nearly
4,000 tons of refined copper yearly ; the smelting-works
are in Canton, and employ 1,000 men. There are also
iron-works, rolling-mills, nail-factories, locomotive-
works, cotton-factories, and other industrial establish
ments, 2,261 in all. The canning of oysters, vege
tables and fruits, is estimated to reach the annual value
of $10,000,000; and half a million hides are annually
made into leather and sent to New England.

Baltimore is called the u Monumental City," from
the number of its monuments ; its chief monument is
the Washington Monument, and Battle Monument was
erected 1815, to the memory of those who fell defend
ing the city from the British in September, 1814.

There are a great many churches in this city,
among which the following are the finest : the Cathe
dral, Mount Vernon Church, First Presbyterian, and
Unitarian Church. The Hebrew Synagogue is a large
and handsome edifice.

Of educational institutions, of which there are also
a great number, the first of all, and the greatest Li
Maryland is the Johns Hopkins University.

The Peabody Institute, containing 75,000 volumes
in its library j the Athenoeum, with the Baltimore
Library (15,000 volumes), and the collections of the
Maryland Historical Society, comprising a library of
10,000 volumes, numerous historical relics and pictures
and statuary, the Maryland Institute, designed for
the promotion of the mechanic arts, containing a

— 268 —

library of 14,000 volumes; the Academy of Science
with a fine museum of natural history, including rich
collections of birds and minerals, an'd a complete repre
sentation of the flora and fauna of Maryland; the State
Normal School; the City college; and the Enoch Pratt
Free Libray, containing 25,000 volumes, are of high
standing.

Prominent charitable institutions are the Johns
Hopkins Hospital, connected with the Medical Depart
ment of the Johns Hopkins University; the Maryland
Hospital for the Insane; the Mount Hope Hospital;
the State Institution for the Instruction of the Blind ;
the Episcopal Church Home; State Insane Asylum;
Bay View Asylum ; the Sheppard Asylum for the In
sane ; and the Mount Hope Retreat for the Insane and
Sick, 4 miles from the city.

The City Hall, the Exchange and the Masonic
Temple are exceedingly elegant structures, and
there are numerous fine business buildings. Druid Hill
Park, 680 acres in area, is a beautiful pleasure
ground, and from the tower at the head of Druid
Hill Lake, a superb view of the city and the harbor
is obtained. On Federal Hill, a commanding emi
nence on the S. side of the inner basin, is the U. S.
Signal Station. The Baltimore and Potomac Tunnel,
next to the Hoosac Tunnel the largest in America,
(6,969 ft.) and the Union Tunnel, (3,410 ft.) are among
the wonders of Baltimore.

At an excursion to Cumberland in the mountain
region, and which in point' of population and commerce

— 269 —

is the second city, I was greatly surprised to find such
an enormous activity in it. It has 11,000 inhabitants
and is the site of the great rolling-mills of the R. R.
Company, for the manufacture of steel rails. A few
miles W. of Cumberland upon the summit of the Alle-
ghanies, begins the district known as the Cumberland
Coal Regions, which extends W. to the Ohio River.
On that pretty long journey I had occasion to study
the country profoundly, and started for the capital of
the State, Annapolis. The capital contains the U. S.
Naval Academy, some excellent State Institutions, and
5,744 inhabitants. The situation of Annapolis is of
great beauty, on Chesapeake Bay.

The State of Maryland, named in honor of Maria,
wife of Charles II, King of England, is one of the 1 3
original States ; first settlement made by English
Roman Catholics at St. Mary's, 1634.

Area, 12,210 square miles; greatest length, east
and west, 196 miles; sea coast, 33 miles; or, including
the tidewater region of the Chesapeake Bay, 41 1 miles;
and, with shores of islands, 509 miles.

Temperature at Baltimore: winter, 33° to 41°;
summer, 73° to 79°. Rainfall, 41 inches.

Number of farms, 40,517; average value per acre,
cleared land, $35.50; woodland, $24.65. Number of
manufacturing establishments, 6,787; hands employed,
74,945; flour and grist mills, 546.

Copper is found in Frederick and Carroll counties;
iron ore in Alleghany, Anne Arundel, Carroll, Balti
more, Frederick and Prince George's counties.

— 270 —

Population, 934,943, incl. 210,230 colored, 5
Chinese and 15 Indians. Slaves in I860, 87,189.
Bribers excluded from voting. Number of colleges,
11; school population, 319,201 5 school age, 5-20.

40 miles from Baltimore lies Washington City, the
capital of the Republic. Owing to its number and
magnificence of its public buildings, Washington is one
of the most interesting cities in America. It is situated
on the N. bank of the Potomac river, at its confluence
with the Eastern Branch.

The site of Washington City was selected through
the agency of Washington, who himself laid the corner
stone of the Capitol, on September 18, 1793, seven
years before the seat of government was removed
thither from Philadelphia. Under Washington's di
rection the city was planned and laid out by Andrew
Ellicott. It appears to have been Washington's desire
that it should be called the "Federal City," but the
name of "the city of Washington" was conferred upon
it on September 9, 1791. Its ancient name was Cono-
cocheague, derived from a rapid stream of that name
which ran near the city, and which, in the Indian
tongue, means the Roaring Brook. The city was in
corporated May 3, 1802. Its population in 1860 was
60,000, and 1880, 147,307.

The commerce and manufactures of Washington
are unimportant. The public buildings are the chief
attraction of Washington, and the Capitol is probably
the most magnificent public edifice in the world. It is
almost impossible to give a true description of all the

— 271 —

curiosities and brilliant ornamentations of this unique
marvel of monumental architecture.

The Library of Congress is the largest collection in
the United States, and numbers now nearly 450,000
volumes, exclusive of pamphlets, and is increasing at
the rate of 10,000 to 15,000 volumes a year. The total
cost of the Capitol was $13,000,000.

The Executive Mansion, usually called the "White
House," whose corner-stone was laid in 1792, was first
occupied by President Adams in 1800. The building
stands on an area comprising 75 acres, handsomely
laid out, and contains in the inclosed 20 acres of ground
for the President's private use, extensive conservatories
and a beautiful fountain.

The U. S. Treasury, State, War, and Navy Depart
ments, Patent Office, Department of Agriculture, Post
Office Department, and the Pension Building are exten
sive and brilliant structures.

Smithsonian Institution, founded by James Smith-
son, an Englishman, " for the increase and diffusion of
knowledge among men," contains a museum of natural
history, with numerous specimens, and metallurgical,
mineralogical and ethnological collections, with many
curiosities.

In the "Annex" of the Institution is the National
Museum, which contains the Centennial exhibits of the
United States, and donations of foreign Governments
to America. Botanical Gardens consist chiefly of a
series of large conservatories filled with rare and curious
plants, flowers and fruits, and N. of it stands the

— 272 —

Bartholdi Fountain, so much admired at the Centennial
Exhibition.

The U. S. Naval Observatory occupies a command
ing site on the bank of the Potomac. It was founded
in 1842, and is now one of the foremost institutions in
the world. It possesses many fine instruments; inclu
ding a 26-inch equatorial telescope and a good library
of astronomical works. The Army Medical Museum
contains 16,000 specimens, illustrating every species
of wound and disease.

The Navy- Yard, containing the Naval Museum, the
Experimental Battery and the fleet, has an area of 27
acres.

There are a number of very fine churches in
Washington.

The Corcoran- Art Gallery, founded by the banker
W. W. Corcoran, contains numerous paintings, most of
them masterpieces, and the finest collection of casts in
America ; marble statuary j the richest bronzes in the
U. S. ; porcelain; and specimens of majolica- ware,
bric-a-brac, etc.

The Washington Monument, considered to be the
loftiest in the world, was dedicated on Washington's
Birthday, 1885, and the Statues of Washington,
General Scott, Lincoln, General Eawlins, General
Thomas, General McPherson, and the Naval Monument
are of large proportions and beauty. A second statue
of Lincoln was erected by contributions of colored peo
ple.

The Soldiers Home consists of several spacious

— 273 —

marble buildings surrounded by a beautiful park of 500
acres. President Lincoln passed some of the last hours
of his eventful term in the Home, and near by is the
National Cemetery.

The Government Asylum for the Insane is an ex
tensive and noble building. Howard University,
founded in 1864, for the education of youth "without
regard to sex or color," is a vast structure.

Georgetown, now called West Washington, is con
nected by 4 bridges with Washington and is beauti
fully situated 011 a range of hills which command a view
unsurpassed in the Potomac Valley. Georgetown Col
lege, the most famous institution of learning of the
Roman Catholic Church in the United States, is under
the control of the Jesuits, and contains a library of
30,000 volumes, some beautifully illuminated missals,
some rare old manuscripts, an astronomical observa
tory, and a museum of natural history.

The Aqueduct, by which the waters of the Chesa
peake and Ohio Canal are carried across the Potomac,
is worth inspecting. 15 miles below Washington is
Mount Vernon on the Virginia side of the Potomac,
then known as the "Hunting Creek estate/' was be
queathed by Augustine Washington, who died in 1743,
to Lawrence Washington. The latter named it after
Admiral Vernon, under whom he had served in the
Spanish wars. George Washington inherited the es
tate in 1752. The central part of the mansion, which
is of wood, was built by Lawrence, and the wings by

George Washington. It contains many interesting

18

— 274 —

historical relics, among which are the key of the Bas-
tile, presented by Lafayette, portions of the military
and personal furniture of Washington, portraits, etc.
The Tomb o;f Washington stands in a retired situation
near the mansion. It is a plain but solid brick struc
ture, with an iron gate, through the bars of which may
be seen the marble sarcophagi containing the remains
of George and Martha Washington. The Mount Ver-
iion domain, including the mansion and 6 acres, which
had remained since the death of Washington in the
possession of his descendants, was purchased in 1856
for the sum of $200,000, raised by subscription, under
the auspices of the "Ladies' Mount Vernon Associa
tion" aided by the efforts of Edward Everett. It is,
therefore, and will continue to be, the property of the
nation.

Leaving the beautiful city of Washington I traveled
to Harper's Ferry, delightfully situated at the conflu
ence of the Potomac and Shenandoah .Rivers. The
town is irregularly built around the base of a hill.
The scenery around Harper's Ferry is wonderfully
picturesque. The Maryland Heights, across the
Potomac, and Bolivar Heights, above the town, are
worth to be climbed. The chief interest pertaining to
Harper's Ferry, now a village of about 800 inhabi
tants, is historical.

It was the scene of the exploits which in October
1859, rendered the name of John Brown, of Ossawat-
tomie, Kansas, notorious ; and Charlestown, the county-
seat where Brown and his followers were tried and

— 275 —

executed, is only 7 miles distant on the road to Win
chester. During the civil war Harper's Ferry was
alternately in the hands of the Federals and Confederates.

During my stay in Washington I had the honor to
be introduced to President Cleveland, by the well-known
Mr. Simon Wolf, and to the President of the United
States Senate, Mr. Sherman. The latter had the kind
ness to detach his Secretary, Mr. Babcock, to act as my
companion and guide.

In all the Governmental Departments I was cordi
ally received, and of some of the professional Scientists
of the different scientific institutes in the city, /. i.
Professor Baird, the famous Ichthyologist, the well-known
Archaeologist, Professor Rau, the successful Ethnologist,
Professor Otis, and above all, my worthy friend, the
indefatigable Ethno-Geologist, Major Powell, as well as
of the Secretary for foreign exchange at the Smithson
ian Institute, Mr. Boehme, I received valuable in
formations and favors which will never be forgotten by
me and for which I herewith thank them heartily.

The District of Columbia in which Washington is
situated, comprises an area of 75 square miles, and
lies on the Potomac. Georgetown, too, is in it.

By approbation of an act of Congress on February
21, 1871, a Territorial Government was instituted, but
in 1874, the territorial system was abandoned and all
public affairs entrusted to 3 Commissioners.

In 1860, the population numbered 75, 080 ; the
Slaves, 3,185. In 1880 there were 177,624 inhabi
tants in the District, among these, 59;402 negroes.

— 276 —

After my return to Philadelphia, I visited Camden,
a flourishing city of 25,000 inhabitants, on the Dele-
ware opposite Philadelphia, with which it is connected
by ferries.

There are extensive ship-yards and manufactures of
iron, glass and chemicals.

Cape May,^the Long Branch of Philadelphia, is the
extreme southern point of New Jersey, fronting
the Atlantic at the entrance of Delaware Bay. Cape
May is a favorite resort of Southern and Western
people and there are some nice places of amusements in
the vicinity.

Like Cape May, Atlantic City is a favorite resort of
Philadelphians, and during the season a great many
people visit the place. A short distance N. of Atlantic
City, is the beautiful but ill-omened Brigantine Beach,
called by the sailors "the Graveyard," on account of
the number of fatal wrecks that have occurred there.
Continuing my travels through the State New Jersey,
Long Branch was begun with. This is a great summer
resort in the vicinity of New York, situated on the
Jersey shore of the Atlantic, where a long beach affords
admirable facilities for bathing. The Monmouth Park
Race-Course and the Iron Pier are worth attention.

Jersey City is situated on the Hudson river, op
posite New York, of which it is practically a portion.
It is a place of much commercial and industrial activity,
and had in 1880 a population of 120,728. It contains
the depots of several of the most important railways
leading South and West from New York, and the docks

of leading transatlantic steamers, but nothing else of
special interest, except a few nice churches and several
good educational institutions.

Newark, on the route to the capital of the State of
New Jersey, is a large manufacturing city with 136,400
inhabitants.

The city is built on an elevated plain upon the
right bank of the Passaic river, 4 miles from Newark
Bay, and is regularly laid out.

Of the literary institutions, the most noteworthy are
the State Historical Society, the Library Association,
containing 20,000 volumes, and the Newark Academy.
Newark is distinguished for its manufactures of jewelry,
carriages, paper, leath(*r, and hats, and some of the
public buildings are very fine. Newark Lager-bier
has great fame iri the U. S.

6 miles beyond Newark is Elizabeth, the nicest city in
New Jersey, with 28,229 inhabitants, and many fine
residences; but little industry.

New Brunswick, on Raritan river, has 18,000 in
habitants and immense manufactures of India-rubber,
harness and hosiery. Rutger's College in the city, is
an old richly-endowed and flourishing establishment,
and 16 miles distant from here is Princeton- Junction,
and 2 £ miles from the latter Princeton College, one of
the most famous institutions of learning in America.

A detour to Patterson, a busy manufacturing city
of 50,887 inhabitants was well worth undertaking.
Patterson is situated on the right bank of the Passaic
river, immediately below the falls. It was founded in

— 278 —

1791 by Alexander Hamilton, in the cotton interest,
and its cotton factories are now very extensive. Its
most important interest, however, is silk manufactur
ing, for which it has 30 factories, employing about
8,000 persons, and turning out a product of $4,000,-
000. It has also extensive manufacturing interests in
velvet, woolen, linen, locomotives, and heavy machin
ery.

Next to Newark it is the largest manufacturing
city of New Jersey. The Passaic Falls have a per
pendicular descent of 50 ft., and the scenery in the
vicinity is very picturesque. Ramapo, 17 miles dis
tant, has the Torn Mountain in its neighborhood, from
the summit of which there is a wide-extended view.
During the campaign of 1777, Washington often as
cended this mountain to watch the movements of the
British army and fleet around New York.

Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, is beautifully
situated on the Delaware. Its manufacturing interests
are important, and among these, the Potteries are chief.
The population in 1880, was 29,910, and the city is
remarkably well built, and clean.

The leading event in the past history of Trenton
is the famous victory over the Hessians won by Wash
ington, December 26, 1776' and its chief present at
tractions are the public buildings. It contains the
State House, State Penitentiary, State Arsenal and the
State Lunatic Asylum.

The State of New Jersey, "Jersey Blue," was
named in honor of a grantee, Sir George Carteret, at

— 279 —

one time Governor of the Island of Jersey. It is one of the
13 original States. Settled by Dutch, at Bergen, 1620.

Area, 7,815 square miles 5 extreme length, 157
miles 5 breadth, 37 to 70' miles 5 frontage on Atlantic
and Delaware Bay, about 120 miles each.

Temperature at Atlantic City : winter, 32° to 42°;
summer, 66° to 73°. Rainfall at Newark, 45 inches.

Newark, Perth Amboy, Great Egg Harbor, Tuck-
erton, Bridgeton and Lumberton are ports of entry.
Extensive zinc works at Newark and Jersey City.
Hobokenhas a population of 37,721, and is practically
a part of New York ; many business men residing there,
and except the large docks of European Steamship
companies has little to offer.

Hay is the most valuable crop. Cranberry grow
ing a specialty, Burlington, Ocean and Atlantic coun
ties being especially adopted to this industry. Cen
tral region, a vast market garden. Latest reports give
108 factories for silk and silk goods, and number of
hands employed in them 12,549 ; 2,234 hands employed
in jewelry factories 5 number of flour and grist mills, 481 5
brick and tile factories, 107. Banks first in fertilizing
marl, zinc and silk goods.

Population, 1,131,116, incl. 38,853 Negroes, 172
Chinese, and 74 Indians.

Number of colleges, 4; number enrolled in public
schools, 209,526; school age, 5-18.

The next exploration tour was intended for Ne
braska and other Western States and Territories, and
starting from Chicago, by the Chicago, Rock Island

— 280 —

and Pacific R. R., I passed many already described
places, and visited first, the important stone quarries
around Lockport, near Joliet, Illinois. Joliet is situ
ated on both banks of the Des Plain es river and on the
Illinois and Michigan canal of which it receives its
water-power. The city is beautifully built, and here
is located one of the finest prisons in America, the
State Penitentiary.

The vicinity is very productive and the city is the
chief point of shipping. Besides flour-mills, there are
also manufactories of agricultural implements, and
Joliet contains 16,145 inhabitants.

23 miles beyond Joliet is the flourishing town of
Ottawa, on Illinois river, close below the entrance of
Fox river, which has here a fall of 29 ft., affording an
immense water power which is extensively used in
manufactures. The population is 8,000. There are
several grain-elevators, and large quantities of wheat
are shipped from this point.

La Salle, 36 miles distant, with 8,000 inhabitants,
on the Illinois river, is a busy manufacturing city.
Here terminates the Illinois and Michigan Canal, 100
miles long, which connects it with Chicago. It is the
center of extensive mines of bituminous coal, of which
large quantities are shipped.

Moline, on the E. bank of the Mississippi, with
9,000 inhabitants, and various factories, which obtain
an immense water-power by means of a dam, is pic
turesquely situated and the surrounding country is
rich in coal.

— 281 —

Below Moline is the flourishing city of Rock Island,
on the E. bank of the Mississippi, with a population of
about 16,000.

The river is here divided by the island of Rock Is
land, which is 3 miles long; and from 16 miles above Mo-
line to 3 miles below are the Upper Rapids. The city
of Rock Island is at the foot of the rapids and at the
confluence of Rock River with the Mississippi.

It is an important railroad center, is the shipping
point for the productive country adjacent, and has
many varied manufactures.

The Augustana College and Theological Institute
are located here. The island of Rock Island (960
acres) is Government property and the site of the
Great Arsenal and Armory, intended to be the central
United States Armory.

Opposite Rock Island, on the Iowa side of the
river, is the city of Davenport and the train crosses
the river between them on the magnificent railroad and
wagon bridge, built by the Government. Davenport
is the second city of Iowa in size, has 22,000 inhabi
tants, and is the great grain depot of the Upper Missis
sippi. It is also an important manufacturing center, and is
situated in the heart of extensive bituminous coal-fields.
The city is nicely laid out, and handsomely built.
Griswold College, the Academy of the Immaculate
Conception, and the Academy of Natural Sciences are
located here, and there are some fine churches and
several nice buildings.

Continuing my travels in Iowa, I next visited Iowa

— 282 —

City, formerly the State Capital, and now the seat of
the State University. The State Historical Society
has a library of about 4,000 volumes, and there are
some factories for which the Iowa River furnishes the
water power. The population is about 8,000. Iowa
College, removed from Davenport, is now in Grinnell,
75 miles from Iowa City.

Des Moines, the present capital of Iowa, is situated
on the Des Moines river, at its confluence with the
Raccoon. The city is intersected by both rivers, which
are spanned by 8 bridges, and has 35,000 inhabitants.
The new Capitol is a splendid building, and cost
$3,000,000. The Post Office contains also the U. S.
Courts, etc., and the two medical colleges, the Drake
University, and the Calinan College are famous schools
of learning. The State Library contains 15,000
volumes, and there is also a Public Library and 15
churches, and a Baptist college in the city. Twelve
railroads pass through the city, making it a railroad
center.

Beyond Des Moines the road passes through the
flourishing cities of Avoca and Atlantic, descends the
bluffs into the Missouri Bottom and soon reaches
Council Bluffs, with a population of 22,000. It is the
converging-point of all the railroads from the East
which connect with the Union Pacific, and communi
cates by steam-railroad with Omaha, on the opposite
river bank. The great Missouri River Bridge which con
nects the two cities, is 2,750 ft, long. Council Bluffs
is well laid out, and near here is the State Institute for

— 283 —

the Deaf and Dumb. The views from the bluffs above
the city are very fine.

By a decision of th 3 U. S. Supreme Court, Council
Bluffs is the E. terminus of the Union Pacific R. R.

The " Hawk eye State/' Iowa, whose name is of Indian
origin, and means "The Beautiful Land/7 is part of the
Louisiana purchase, merged into Missouri Territory,
1812; into Michigan, 1834; into Wisconsin, 1836.
First white settlement at Dubuque, 1788. Admitted
as a State, 1846.

Area, 56,025 square miles; extent, north and south,
208 miles; east and west, about 300 miles. Principal
rivers within the State: Des Moines, Iowa and Little
Sioux.

Temperature at Davenport; winter, 21° to 37°;
summer, 70° to 76°. Rainfall at Muscatine, 43
inches.

Burlington, Keokuk and Dubuque are U. S. ports of
delivery.

Number of farms, 185,351; average value per acre,
cleared land, $39.36 ; woodland, $27.36. Dairy interest
growing in importance, creamery and factory products
bringing high prices. Manufacturing establishments
are numerous, including canning factories, stove and
other foundries, engine-building, paper and woolen
mills, lumber and saw-mills, etc. Ranks first in hogs;
second in milk cows, oxen and other cattle, corn, hay
and oats.

Population, 1,753,980, incl. 9,310 colored, 33
Chinese and 466 Indians.

— 284 —

Number of Colleges, 19; school population, 604,739;
school age, 5-21.

Opposite Council Bluffs, as already stated, lies the
city of Omaha, the largest city of Nebraska and of the
Missouri Valley. It occupies a beautiful plateau, rising
gradually into bluffs and toward the end of 1884 had
60,000 inhabitants. On the bluffs stand the handsome
residences of the wealthier citizens. The U. S. Post-
Office and Court House, the High-School Building, the
Union Pacific Headquarters Building, the Union Pacific
R. R. Depot, the Douglas County Court House andBoyd's
Opera House are magnificent structures and several of
the churches are costly and elegant edifices. Its pros
perity is due chiefly to its having been for a long period
the real E. terminus of the Union Pacific R. R.

It has an immense trade and many important manu
factories, the principal of which latter arc the Omaha
Smelting- Works, considered to be the largest in America,
several large breweries and distilleries, extensive lin
seed-oil works, steam-engine works, brick yards, stock
yards and pork-packing establishments, and the ex
tensive machine-shops, car-works and foundry of the
Union Pacific R. R. The system of water-works in the
city is unsurpassed. Fort Omaha is 4 miles from
Omaha city and has a large post, but the headquarters
of the Department of the Platte are in the city.

The Burlington and Missouri River R. R. extends
to Denver, Colorado, whence I intended to go after
visiting the capital of Nebraska, Lincoln, and procur
ing passage on that line, I started for Lincoln.

— 285 —

This is a city of 20,000 population, and is the seat
of the State University and several other educational
and charitable institutions. It is romantically situated
arid has a lively commerce.

My explorations in the State of Nebraska were not
of an extensive character and I was compelled to get
furnished with the details of this country from the most
reliable sources, and reproduce the same as given to
me.

The State of Nebraska, whose name is taken from
the Indian, signifying " Shallow water " and applied
first to the river, was organized as a Territory in 1854;
admitted 1867.

Area 76,855 square miles ; width, north and south,
about 210 miles; greatest length in center, about 420
miles. Platte the principal river, extending through
the State east and west.

Temperature at Omaha ; winter, 20° to 34°; sum
mer, 72° to 78°. Rainfall at Fort Kearney, 25 inches.

Population of Plattsmouth, 5,796; of Nebraska
City, 5,597. Rye, buckwheat, barley, flax and hemp
yield abundant crops. Apples, pears, plums, grapes,
and berries are plentiful. Herd law excellent, and
grazing land good. Cattle raising the great industry
of the State, next to agriculture. Manufacturing es
tablishments show a wonderful increase of from 670 in
1870 to 1,403 in 1880. Homesteads obtained under
timber claims, or by pre-emptions ; cash expense of
first, $18 to $26 ; of second, $14.

Population, 452,402, incl. 2,385 Colored, 18 Chi-

— 286 —

nese and 235 Indians. U. S. Army excluded from
voting.

Number of colleges, 9 j school population, 135,-
511 ; school age, 5-21.

On the route from Omaha to Denver by the Union
Pacific R. R., numerous small cities, etc., are passed,
offering nothing noteworthy, though the distance is
565 miles.

The peculiar position of the Pacific Rail Roads in
duce me to describe their history in a brief extract.

As early as 1846, the project of a railway across the
continent was advocated by Asa Whitney, and in 1853
Congress passed an act providing for surveys by the
corps of topographical engineers. In 1862 and 1864
further acts were passed providing for a subsidy in U.
S. 6 per cent, gold bonds at specified rates per mile.
By these acts, the companies undertaking the work,
received 12,800 acres of land for each mile of railroad
built, or 25,000,000 acres in all. The Union Pacific
Company built the railroad from Omaha to Ogden, a
distance of 1,033 miles, and the Central Pacific Com
pany that from San Francisco to Ogden, 883 miles.
Work began in 1863 j the first 40 miles from Omaha
to Fremont were completed in 1865, and on the 12th
of May, 1869, the railroad communication from the At
lantic to the Pacific Ocean was opened. Nine Moun
tain ranges this route crosses, the highest of which
are the Black Hills, at an elevation of 8,242 ft. above
the sea, and the lowest Promontory Mountains, W. of
Great Salt Lake, 4,889 ft. The aggregate length of

— 287 —

the tunnels, of which there are 15, all situated in the
Sierra Nevada or its spurs, is 6,000 ft. The gradients
do not often exceed 80 ft. to the mile.

The cost of the Union Pacific Eoad was reported to
the Secretary of the Interior at $112,259,360 ; but the
liabilities of the company at the date of the completion
of the road were $116,730,052. In 1868 Jesse L.
Williams, a civil engineer and one of the Government
directors, reported the approximate cost of the Union
Pacific Road in cash at $38,824,821. The cost of the
Central Pacific Road and branches (1,222 miles) in lia
bilities of every sort was reported in 1874 at $139,-
746,311.

During my repeated stays in the city of Denver I
had formed many valuable acquaintances, and enjoyed
the hospitality of Ex-Governor Eaton? Lieutenant-
Governor Breen, Doctor Eisner and Mr. Rose. Doc
tor Eisner, a celebrated Physician in Denver, and his
amiable family were indefatigable in their efforts to
make my sojourn as pleasant and agreeable as possible.
Doctor Eisner's mineralogic-geological collection is the
second largest in the United States, and as a specific
American (from the Rocky Mountains), the first in the
world.

Of Mr. Addy, General Passenger Agent of the
Union Pacific R. R. Company 5 Major K. Hooper of
the Rio Grande R. R. Company — the latter well-known
in the country as the author of descriptions of travels
and other journalistics — ; of the Administration of the
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe R. R. Company, and

— 288 —

Commissioner Rich, I received many favors and im
portant informations, and to all of them I am under
deep obligations j thanking them with all my heart.

By the Denver and Silverton Division of the Den
ver and Eio Grande R. R., I crossed the Sangre di
Christo range by the wonderful La Veta Pass, at an
altitude of 9,486 ft. amid scenery of a remarkable
beauty and grandeur. The view of Sierra Blanca
14,464 ft. high, flanked by the serrated peaks of the
Sangre di Christo range, as seen from Alamosa, is no
where surpassed. W. of Antonita, 29 miles dis
tant, are the Los Pinos Canon and the Toltec Gorge,
the most wonderful scenic attractions of Colorado. For
a distance of 8 miles the railway runs just below the
brow of a precipitous mountain-range at the terror-in
spiring height of 1,200 ft. above the stream, following
the irregular contour of the mountains, through deep
cuts and over high hills, (Phantom Curve), till it comes
to the end of a mountain-wall that juts into the canon,
narrowing it to a mere gorge, 1,400 ft. in depth. Not
far from the gorge, the railway suddenly enters a tun
nel in the solid granite cliff, and 600 ft. further on
emerges upon a trestle-bridge and reaches Durango,
which is the supply depot for the famous San Juan
mining district, and the road continues to Silverton,
495 miles from Denver. At a distance of 30 miles
from Durango are the prehistoric cliff dwellings on
the Rio Mancos, among the most wonderful in America.
At Antonita the New Mexico Division of the R. Re
branches off to the S. and runs in 91 miles to Espanola,

— 289 —

near which place are 8 ancient pueblos, inhabited by
Pueblo Indians whom the Spaniards found there only
48 years after the discovery of America, and in the
neighboring cliffs are numerous cave-dwellings prehis
toric in their origin.

Boulder was next visited. This is a mining town
and contains the State University, and in its proximity,
the famous Boulder Canon, a stupendous mountain-
gorge, 17 miles long, with walls of solid rock that rise
precipitously to a height of 3,000 ft. in many places.

About 8 miles from Boulder are the Falls of Boul
der Creek and at Longmont, 13 miles beyond Boulder,
is the starting point for an excursion through the pic
turesque Estes Park, to the summit of Longs Peak,
14,088 ft. high, affording one of the grandest views to
be obtained in Colorado. Beyond Longmont the rail
way gradually nears the mountains, crosses the beau
tiful and productive Cache la Poudre Valley at Fort
Collins, and for the last 50 miles runs at the base of
the Rocky Mountains.

In that region Tellurium mines are to be found,
this rare metal appearing in different admixtures, and
according to assurances made to me by the well-known
Geologist Professor Smith, yield exceedingly well. To
this Scientist also I am indebted for his kindness,
which induced me to prolong my stay in that region.

Fort Collins is a military post and contains the Ag
ricultural Institute and several handsome buildings.

Concluding thus my travels through the State of

Colorado, I proceeded to Wyoming Territory.

19

— 290 —

The " Centennial State/' Colorado, is part of Louis
iana purchase of 1803. First explored by Vasquez
Coronado under the Spanish, 1540.

First expedition sent out by U. S. Government,
under Major Pike, 1806, a second under command of
Col. S. H. Long, 1820, and in 1842-44, Gen. John C.
Fremont made his celebrated trip across the Rocky
Mountains. First settlements made by miners, 1858-
1859; formed from parts of Kansas, Nebraska, Utah
and New Mexico; organized as a Territory, February,
1861; admitted, August 1, 1876.

Area, 103,925 square miles; length, 380 miles;
breadth, 280 miles; principal rivers, North and South
Platte, Arkansas, Snake, White and Green.

Temperature at Denver: winter, 25° to 37° ; sum
mer, 72° to 74°. Rainfall of the State, from 15 to 20
inches, falling mostly between May and July. The
School of Mines is at Golden City. Colorado is the
richest State in the Union in mineral productions,
ranking first in silver, and fourth in gold. Cattle rais
ing a safe and profitable business ; sheep husbandry still
more profitable.

Population, 243,910, incl. 3,262 colored, 861
Chinese and 202 Indians.

Number of colleges, 3 ; school population, 40,208 ;
school age, 6-21.

Though I had formerely been in the Territory of
Wyoming, but only en route to the far West, I boarded
a train of the Union Pacific R. R. for Cheyenne, the
capital of Wyoming. Cheyenne has a population of

— 291 —

6,000, representing chiefly the stock and mining
interests. The city is substantially built and contains
a fine Court House and Jail, a pretty City Hall and an
extensive round-house and shops.

The military post of Fort D. A. Russell is located
here.

A few miles beyond Cheyenne the ascent of the
Rocky Mountains begins, and at a distance of about 33
miles the train passes Sherman, one of the highest R.
R. stations in the world, 8,235 ft. high. Here com
mences the descent to the Laramie Plains, which are
about 40 miles wide on the average and 100 miles long,
bounded by the Black Hills and the Medicine Bow
Mountains. Enormous flocks of sheep graze on the
plains, said to be the best grazing in the United States.
There is an abundance of game, such as antelopes,
mountain-sheep and bears, in the neighboring hills.

Laramie City is 56 miles from Cheyenne and is
situated on Laramie river, in the midst of the Laramie
Plains. Its population is 3,000, but is rapidly increas
ing. It is the end of a division of the R. R., and has
large machine and repair shops, and the rolling-mills of
the company. The city is regularly laid out and con
tains several handsome buildings. Within 30 miles of
Laramie there are deposits of antimony, cinnabar, gold,
silver, lead, plumbago, and several other minerals.
Beyond Laramie the road traverses the Plains for many
miles, crosses a region of rugged hills, and descends
once more into the valley of the North Platte. Near
Miser, 44 miles from Laramie City, are fine views of

— 292 —

Laramie Peak on the right and Elk Mountain on the
left. The North Platte is reached at Fort FredSteele,
and then another steep ascent is begun. Creston is
upon the dividing ridge of the continent, from which
water flows each way ; E. to the Atlantic and W. to the
Pacific.

At Green River Station, the train emerges from the
desolate plains and enters a mountain region, which
affords some fine views and in a distance of 121 miles
enters Utah Territory.

Wyoming Territory was organized 1869. First
settlements, trading posts of Forts Laramie and
Bridges.

Area, 97,890 square miles; length, 350 miles ;
breadth, 275 miles. Largest rivers, Green, Snake, Big
Horn, Powder, Big Cheyenne and North Platte.

Temperature at Cheyenne: winter, 23° to 33°;
summer, 63° to 69°. Rainfall at Fort Laramie, 15
inches. Union Pacific runs through extreme south
from east to west, and connects Cheyenne with Den
ver.

Wheat, rye, oats and barley flourish, but frosts too
frequent for corn. Big Horn Country, in northwest, has
an area of 15,000 square miles; fine agricultural coun
try; water plentiful; game and fur-bearing animals
numerous, rendering it one of the most desirable hunt
ing grounds of America. Grazing interest important,
and increasing rapidly, more than half the area being-
rich grazing land. Mountains covered with forests' of
coniferes, which will prove very useful for lumber.

— 293 —

Mineral resources extensive ; iron ore abundant ; cop
per, lead, plumbago and petroleum found; gold in the
Sweetwater country and near Laramie City; valuable
deposits of soda in the valley of the Sweetwater. Coal
abundant and of good quality at Evanston, Carbon,
Rock Springs and other points; these deposits extensi
vely worked, and furnish nearly all the coal used by the
railroads and by settlements hundreds of miles east and
west. But little attention has as yet been given to
mechanical and manufacturing industries.

Population, incl. 298 Colored, 914 Chinese and 140
Indians- 20,789. Good school system started; school
population, 4,112; school age, 7-21.

Returned over the same road to Denver, and stay
ing there a short time, I left that lovely city and its
generous and warm-hearted citizens, starting on the
trip to Kansas, via Kansas Division of the Union Paci
fic R. R. The first noteworthy station is Kit Carson,
named after the great " Pathfinder/' and situated on
Sand Creek, about 20 miles above the spot where
Colonel Chivington's Indian massacre took place.

Fort Wallace, an important military post on the
boundary-line of Kansas, and Fort Hays, situated on a
commanding elevation, overlooking the plains, one of
the handsomest military posts in the West are passed.
Opposite the latter, upon Big Creek, is Hays City, once
the center of the Buffalo range. 65 miles beyond is
Ellsworth, situated on the Smoky Hill River, in a fine
stock-raising country. Numerous thriving villages in
a highly productive agricultural region are on the route

— 294 —

to Manhattan, a busy and rapidly growing town, con-
taining an Agricultural High School.

Topeka, the capital of Kansas, is situated on both
sides of the Kansas River, which is here spanned by a
fine iron bridge. It contains one of the finest State
Houses in the West, and has 23,000 inhabitants. The
river affords excellent water-power, and there are
several important educational institutions. In the
vicinity, which is very fertile, are deposits of coal.

The U. S. Government Building and State Lunatic
Asylum are in course of erection.

At a distance of 30 miles from Topeka, situated en
both sides of the Kansas River, and built on a rolling
slope, is the beautiful city of Lawrence, with 10,000
inhabitants. The trade of Lawrence is very large, and
a dam across the river furnishes water-power for
numerous mills. The State University is located here.
The terminus of the above mentioned R. R, DivisioH
is Kansas City, in the State of Missouri.

Kansas City is the second city of Missouri in im
portance, contains a population of 115,000, and is sit
uated on the S. bank of the Missouri river, below the
mouth of the Kansas river, and near the Kansas bor
der. Its trade is immensely increasing, and due to the
12 important railroads, (which converge here), and the
steamboat traffic on the river. Its manufacturing in
terests are of no importance whatsoever. The first
bridge ever constructed across the Missouri, is in Kan
sas City, and is 1,387 ft. long. The Union R. R. De
pot is one of the finest in the West.

— 295 —

There are some handsome public and private build
ings in the city.

From Kansas City I traveled again to the neigh
boring State of Kansas, and visited Leavenworth.
There is an important trade in agricultural products in
that city, and its population is 29,000. Fort Leaven-
worth and the Soldiers' Home are of great interest to
the traveler.

Atchison, a lively city of 18,000 inhabitants, is
pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Missouri
river._ Nine railroads meet here and about 90 trains
arrive and depart every day, making it a railroad
center. The industry in manufacturing is very large
and incloses flour-mills, machine-shops, breweries,
engine-works, furniture, and carriage-factories.

It has several nice churches and a fine iron bridge
across the river.

After exploring different rural regions in this State
I proceeded to St. Joseph, Missouri.

The " Garden of the West," the State of Kansas,
takes its name from the Indian, signifying " Smoky
Water." Visited first by Spaniards, 1541, and by
French, 1719. Part of Louisiana purchase, and after
ward of Indian Territory. Organized as a Territory,
1854, admitted as a State, 1861.

Area, 82,080 square miles 5 length, 400 miles ;
breadth, 200 miles. Geographical center of the
United States, exclusive of Alaska. Missouri River
frontage, 150 miles; largest rivers, Solomon, Neosho,
Saline, Arkansas, Republican and Kansas.

— 296 —

Temperature at Leavenworth : summer, 74° to
79°; winter, 25° to 35°; rainfall, 31 inches.

Institution for the Feeble-Minded at Osawatomie,
and for the education of the Blind, at Wyandotte ; for
Deaf-Mutes, Olathe.

Number of farms, 1860, 10,400; 1880, 138,561.

Average value per acre, cleared land, $19.12;
wooodland, $11.82. Peculiarly adapted for stock rais
ing.

Number of hands employed in manufactories, 12,064.

Population, 996,096, incl. 43,107 Colored, 19 Chi
nese and 815 Indians.

Number of colleges, 8 ; number of school houses,
over 5,000; school attendance, 69 per cent, of school
population; school age, 5—21.

St. Joseph, Missouri, has 32,431 inhabitants, several
educational institutions and an important trade. The
city is very wealthy and some of the public and pri
vate buildings are very handsome. The river is the
demarkation line, and is quite shallow here.

I also visited Jefferson City, the capital of Mis
souri, which is beautifully situated on high bluffs, over
looking the Missouri River for many miles. It has
6,000 inhabitants and is nicely built. The State
House is an extensive building, and the State Library
contains 12,000 volumes. There are numerous flour-
mills and factories in Jefferson City.

The " Pennsylvania of the West," the State of
Missouri, whose name is taken from that of the river
Missouri, signifying in Indian, " Mud River," was first

— 297 —

settled at St. Genevieve by the French, 1755; organ
ized as a Territory, 1812; admitted 1821.

Area, 69,415 square miles; length, north and south,
275 miles; average breadth, 245 miles; Mississippi
River frontage, nearly 500 miles.

Temperature at St. Louis: winter, 30° to 43°;
summer, 75° to 80° ; rainfall, 42 inches.

Number of farms, 215,575; average value per
acre, cleared land, $14.52; woodland, $8.25.

Lead is found in southwest, center and southeast,
having area of over 5,000 square miles.

Ranks first in mules ; third in oxen, hogs; corn and
copper.

Population, 2,168,380, incl. 145,350 Colored, 91
Chinese and 113 Indians.

U. S. Army excluded from voting.

Number of Colleges, 17; school population, 741,-
632 ; school age, 6-20.

Per St. Louis and San Francisco R. R. and its
branches I continued my voyage, intending to visit a
few important places in the State of Arkansas and
afterward to explore the Indian Territory.

Passing Eureka Springs and Avoca with aothing
noteworthy, I arrived at Little Rock, Arkansas. The
capital of Arkansas and chief city of the State has 25,-
000 inhabitants, and is. built upon the first bed of rocks
that is met with in ascending the Arkansas River. The
city is regularly laid out, and the residences are sur
rounded by gardens adorned with shade-trees, present
ing a lovely appearance.

— 298 —

Of the public buildings are worth to be mentioned,
the State House, New Custom House, Northern Medi
cal College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Military Institute
of St. John's College, and some of the churches are
also very pretty. The U. S. Arsenal and Land Office,
the State Institutions for Deaf-Mutes and the Blind,
and the State Penitentiary are located here. The
State Library contains 12,500 volumes.

From Malvern, 42 miles S. of Little Rock, the Hot
Springs R. R. diverges and runs in 25 miles to the
famous Hot Springs.

The town is only an appendage of the Sanitarium
and contains 3,000 inhabitants.

The 66 springs issue from the W. slope of Hot
Springs Mountain, vary in temperature from 93° to
160° F., and discharge into the Creek about half a
million of gallons a day.

The waters are taken both internally and, in the
the form of baths, externally, and are remedial in
rheumatism, scrofula and diseases of the skin.

Not extending my travels in this State any farther,
I was busy in collecting statistic data about Arkansas,
and having been successful in obtaining them from
official sources, I reproduce the same as follows.

The "Bear State," State of Arkansas, the name of
which is of Indian origin, signifying u Smoky Water,''
with prefix from French meaning "Bow," was settled
at Arkansas Post by French, 1685; became a Terri
tory, 1819; admitted as a State, 1836, seceded March
4, 1861; re-admitted 1868.

• — 299 —

Area, 53,850 square miles; length, north and
south, 240 miles; breadth, from 170 to 250 miles;
Mississippi Eiver frontage, about 400 miles.

Temperature at Little Rock: winter, 42° to 51° ;
summer, 79° to 82°. Rainfall at Fort Smith, 40
inches ; and at Washington, 55 inches.

Number of farms, 94,433. Average value per
acre, cleared land $11.78; woodland, $3.48.

Number of different industries, 2,070; for tar and
turpentine, 26 ; sawing lumber, 354 , flour and grist,
807.

Coal along Arkansas River ; iron ores in Ozark
Mountains ; salt springs near Ouachita ; oilstone near
Hot Springs; kaolin in Pulaski County.

Population, 802,525, incl. 210,666 Colored, 133
Chinese and 195 Indians. Slaves, 1860, 111,115.

Number of colleges, 5; school population, 289,617;
school age, 6—21.

Having procured the necessary permit, etc., I
started first per Missouri Pacific, and afterwards
per Missouri, Kansas and Texas Division R. R.,
and passed Fort Scott, established as a military
post in 1842, in whose vicinity there is an abundance
of bituminous coal; and Parsons, a flourishing city,
built on a high rolling prairie between and near the
confluence of the Big and Little Labette Rivers, and
then reached Vinita, the first station in the Indian
Territory.

The railroad traverses the country for 201 miles to
Durant, near the Texas border.

— 300 —

Tlie towns, villages, etc., along the road are inhabi
ted by several Indian tribes, and their reservations are
inaccessible to white persons, that is, white people are
prohibited from settling there. I mention only a few of
them : Caddo, Caney, Atoka, Gap, Frink, Checotah,
Oaklaha, Muscogec, Leliaetta with the capital of the
Cherokee Indians, Tahlequa, the most important town,
and near by Adair and Catala, either close to the road
or sideways from it.

The Indian Territory, portion of great Louisiana
purchase was set apart for home of peaceable Indian
tribes ; organized 1834. Cut down to form States and
Territories, leaving but 64,690 square miles, or 41,-
401,600 acres 5 nearly 26,000,000 acres being Indian
reservations.

Length east and west on the north, 470 miles,
breadth west of 100th meridian, 35 miles, and east of
that line, about 210 miles.

Eeservations of Cherokees, 5,000,000 acres in north
and northeast ; Seminoles, 2,000,000 in east central ,
Creeks, 3,215,495 in east; Chickasaws, 4,377,600 in
south; the Oklahoma country near centre. Principal
rivers, Arkansas and Red. Number of nations, agen
cies and reservations, 22.

Temperature at Fort Gibson: winter, 35° to 48°;
summer, 77° to 82°. Rainfall in extreme northwest,
20 inches, and at Fort Gibson, 36 inches. Railroad
mileage, 372.

Capital of Chickasaws, Tishomingo ; of Chocktaws,
Tushkahoma; of Creeks, Muscogee j of Osages, Paw-

— 301 —

huska; of Seminoles, Seminole Agency; of Pawnees,
Pawnee Agency; of Kiowas and Comanches, Kiowa
and Commanche Agency.

Corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton and potatoes yield
luxuriantly.

Stringent laws to protect from encroachments by
whites. They can hold land only by marrying into
one of the tribes.

Recent official reports give Indian population about
80,000 : Cherokees, 20,000 ; Chocktaws, 16,500 ;
Creeks, 14,500; Chickasaws, 7,000; Seminoles, 2,500;
Osages, 2,390; Cheyennes, 3,298; Arapahoes, 2,676;
Kiowas, 1,120; Pawnees, 1,438; Comanches, 1,475.

No Territorial Government has as yet been organi
zed, owing to differences in the views of Congress and
the tribes. For each agency a deputy is appointed by
the President to represent the United States, but each
tribe manages its own internal affairs. Most of the
tribes governed by chiefs.

Of first five tribes, 33,650 can read and have
16,200 houses, 195 schools and 6,250 pupils. Ex
pended from tribal funds for educational purposes,
$156,856 ; from government appropriation for freedmen,
$3,500.

From the trip to the Indian Territory, en route for
Chicago, I took a rest in the latter and again explored
the State of Illinois, in order to complete my Statistics
of the State.

Kankakee was begun with. It is situated upon the
river of the same name, which is one of the principal

— 302 —

tributaries of the Illinois, and has 6,000 inhabitants.
Its manufactures , including iron-foundries, machine-
shops, woolen-mills, tool-works, plan ing-mills, etc.,
are very important. In the nearest neighborhood
of Kankakee are quarries of a superior kind of lime
stone.

Bloomington was the next city visited. It is an
important railroad center, and the seat of large manu
facturing and shipping interests, and has 22,000 in
habitants. The Illinois Wesleyan University has
15,000 volumes in its library and is a famous high-
school, and there are other important educational insti
tutions in the city. The Major Female College and
the Female Seminary are of high standing. Some of
the public buildings are handsome, and the construction
and repair shops of the Chicago and Alton R. R. cover
13 acres of ground.

Peoria, a city of 30,000 inhabitants, situated on the
W. bank of the Illinois river, and at the lower end of
Peoria Lake, is an important railway center. The
Courthouse, the Normal School, the City Hall and the
Library, with 10,000 volumes, and several of the 28
churches are very handsome edifices. The main
business is manufacturing, consisting of distilleries,
breweries, iron-foundries, machine shops, carriage and
furniture factories, engine and locomotive shops, etc.
The city is surrounded by a fertile prairie, and in its
vicinity very rich mines of bituminous coal are
worked.

Quincy, picturesquely situated on a lime-stone bluff

— 303 —

125 ft. above the Mississsippi and with a popula
tion of 27,275, is a railroad center. The city is well
built, and the trade extensive. The Hanibal and St.
Joseph R. R. crosses the river here on a fine bridge.

Extending my journey to Springfield, the capital of
Illinois, I remained in that beautiful city several days.
It contains 30,000 inhabitants and is built on a beauti
ful prairie, 5 miles S. of the Sangamon river. The
streets are broad and tastefully adorned with shade trees.
From the beauty of the place and its surroundings,
Springfield is called the "Flower City." One of the
finest Capitols in the United States is the Springfield
Capitol, and there are numerous noteworthy public
and private buildings in the city, among which the U.
S. Building, the County Court House, the High School,
State Arsenal, St. John's Hospital and the Opera
House deserve special mention. In Oak Ridge Ceme
tery, 2 miles N. of the city, lie the remains of President
Lincoln, to whose memory a noble monument was
erected. The trade of the city is extensive, the sur
rounding country very productive, and vast coal-mines
in the vicinity. The chief* manufacturing establish
ments are foundries and machine shops, flouring-mills,
woolen-mills, rolling-mills, breweries and a watch-
factory. The extensive shops of the Wabash R. R. are
worth paying a visit.

With this latter city, I concluded my explorations
in Illinois.

The " Prairie or Sucker State/' the State of Illinois,
has its name from a tribe of Indians, signifying, "A

— 304 —

superior class of men." First permanent settlement by
French at Kaskaskia, 1 682 ; organized as a Territory,
1809; admitted as a State, 1818.

Area, 56,650 square miles; greatest length, 385
miles; greatest breadth, 218 miles; highest land, 1,150
feet. Has 4,000 miles navigable streams.

Temperature at Chicago: winter, 25° to 37°;
summer, 68° to 73°. At Cairo: winter, 35° to 54° ;
summer, 76° to 80°. Rainfall at Peoria, 35 inches.

Kaskaskia, first capital, which was removed to
Vandalia, 1818, and to Springfield, 1836.

Number of farms, 255,741, of which 175,497 are
occupied by owners. Value per acre, cleared land,
$33.03; woodland, $23.68.

First recorded coal mine in America located near
Ottawa, 1669. Coal area, cover three fourths of entire
State; estimated to contain one-seventh of all known
coal in North America. Superior quality lime-stone
on Fox and Desplaines rivers ; lead, most important
mineral; galena in center of richest diggings of the
Northwest. Rich salt wells in Salin and Gallatin
counties, 75 gallons brine-making 50 pounds salt.

Ranks first in corn, wheat, oats, meat-packing,
lumber traffic, malt and distilled liquors and miles rail
way ; second in rye, coal, agricultural implements, soap
and hogs.

Population, 3,077,871, incl. 46,368 Colored, 209
Chinese, 3 Japanese and 140 Indians. School system
excellent; number of colleges, 28; school age, 6-21.

My next aim was the State of Indiana, and the

— 305 —

first place visited, Terre Haute, a long distance from
Chicago. On the route to Terre Haute numerous
flourishing towns and villages are passed, and a pro
ductive agricultural region is traversed. The city
contains 33,000 inhabitants and is situated on the E.
bank of the Wabash river, which is here spanned by
3 bridges. It contains 2 Orphan Asylums, a number
of fine public buildings, Coate's Female College, a
Public Library, the Rose Polytechnic School, the State
Normal School, St. Anthony's Hospital and several nice
churches. Its manufactures are extensive, and consist
of carriage and wagon works, machine-shops, nail-
works, blast furnaces, car-works, rolling-mills, woolen-
mills, and 7 flour mills, with a daily capacity of 3,300
barrels. The Artesian well, 2,000 ft. deep, is celebra
ted for its medicinal virtue.

Terre Haute is the point of intersection of 9 railroaad
lines, and is the center of trade for a populous region.

From here I traveled to Indianapolis, the capital of
Indiana.

Indianapolis is the largest city in the State, and
situated on the W. fork of White river, near the center
of the State. The city is built in a fertile plain and
has beautiful and wide streets. Its population is
75,074, and the trade and manufactures very exten
sive. The principal industry is pork-packing, and
manufactures of machinery, agricultural implements,
cars, carriages, furniture and flour. It is one of the
great railway centers of the West, no less than 14 rail
ways converge here.

20

— 306 —

Of public buildings are noteworthy: the State
House, Court House, the State Lunatic Asylum, State
Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, the U. S. Arsenal,
the Post-Office, City Hall, County Jail and City
Prison. The Butler University admits both sexes,
and is 4 miles E. of the city. The principal charitable
institutions are: 3 Orphan Asylums, the State Female
Reformatory and Asylum, the Catholic Infirmary and a
City Hospital. Of churches there are many elegant
and costly in Indianapolis.

The Union Passenger Depot is one of the most
spacious structures of the kind in the United States.
The State Library contains 15,000 volumes and the
Free City Library 35,000 volumes.

Among the principal manufacturing industries are
the Atlas Engine- Works, Indianapolis Rolling-Mills
and Car-Shops, Haugh Iron- Works, Malleable Iron-
Works, Kingan Pork-Packing Houses, and the Tile-
W^orks, etc.

Lafayette, one of the principal cities of Indiana,
with 14,860 inhabitants, has a flourishing trade with
the surrounding country, and a number of important
factories, embracing machine-shops and foundries,
flour-mills, marble- works, breweries, woolen-mills, etc.
It is situated on the Wabash river, built on a rising
ground and inclosed in the rear by hills. The University
with which is associated the State College of Agricul
ture and the Mechanic Arts, is a richly endowed insti
tution. Lafayette is the point of intersection of 5 rail
way lines, and there are several handsome buildings,

— 307 —

among them the County Jail, St. Mary's Academy, Ford's
School House, and the Opera House. From an Artesian
well, 230 ft. deep, near the center of the city, sulphur-
water issues freely. S. of the city limits are the County
Agricultural Fair Grounds, and 7 miles N. of Lafayette
is the battle-ground where General Harrison defeated
the Indians, November 7, 1811.

Fort Wayne is known as the "Summit City," from
the fact that it is on the water-shed from which the
streams run E. and W. It i^ situated at the point
where the Maumee river is formed by the confluence
of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's, and takes its name
from an old frontier fort which was built here in 1794,
and which was retained as a military station until 1819.
It is one of the chief cities of Indiana, with a popula
tion of 26,880, and extensive manufactures. The vast
machine-shops of the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and
Chicago R. R., and of the Wabash, St. Louis and
Pacific R. R. are located here.

Among the public buildings are the Court House
and County Jail, and the Concordia College and the
Fort Wayne College are prominent educational institu
tions.

The " Hoosier State," the State of Indiana, was
first settled by Canadian voyagers at Vincennes, 1702 5
organized as a Territory, 1800 , admitted as a State,
1816.

Area, 36,350 square miles; extreme length, 276
miles; average breadth, 140 miles; shore line on Lake
Michigan, 40.

— 308 —

Michigan City the lake port.

Temperature at Indianapolis: winter, 29° to 41°;
summer, 73° to 78°. Rainfall at Richmond, 43
inches.

Evansville, commercial center of the southwest;
population, 29,280.

Number of farms, 194,013 5 average value per acre,
clear land, $30.46; woodland, $26.90. Corn the most
valuable crop. Coal fields about 6,500 square miles,
extending from Warren County south to the Ohio;
varieties are coking coal, Indiana block and cannel.

Ranks second in wheat.

Population, 1,978,301, incl. 39,228 Negroes, 29
Chinese and 246 Indians.

Number of colleges, 15; State University at Bloom-
ington; Medical School at Indianapolis; University at
Notre Dame; flourishing common-school system ; school
population, 708,596; school age, 6-21.

The neighboring State cf Michigan was explored
from the starting-point, Fort Wayne, and the first place
visited was Adrian, the largest city in South Michigan,
with about 10,000 inhabitants and flourishing varied
manufactures.

The monument, erected in honor of the 77 inhabitants
of the city who lost their lives in the last civil war, is
exceedingly pretty. The city is regularly laid out and
has many fine structures.

Ann Arbor, a city of 8,000 inhabitants, situated on
both sides of the Huron river, is well known in the
Union as the seat of the University of Michigan, one of

— 309 —

the leading institutions of learning in the West, con
taining departments of law, medicine, dentistry, etc.,
and is open to both sexes.

The Observatory of the University is a mile from
the 6'ther buildings. The Library of the same, contains
45,000 volumes, and the Museums are large and valu
able.

The Union School at Ann Arbor is also famous, and
there are 5 mineral springs in the city, and several fine
churches.

Not far from here is the thriving city of Ypsilanti,
with 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the Huron river,
which furnishes water-power for several flour-mills,
paper-mills and other factories. The State Normal
School is located here.

Per Michigan Centeral R. R., traversing a fine
agricultural country, the City of Detroit is reached.
The chief city of Michigan, Detroit, is situated on the
N. bank of the Detroit river, 20 miles long, and con
necting Lakes Erie and St. Clair.

For at least 6 miles the river front is lined with
mills, dry-docks, foundries, ship-yards, railroad-depots,
grain-elevators, lumber-yards, rolling-mills, and ware
houses.

In 1783 Detroit was ceded to the United States,
but the Americans did not take possession of it till
1796. During the war of 1812 it fell into the hands of
the British, but was recaptured in 1813. It was in
corporated as a city in 1824, when its population was
less than 2,000; and now, in 1884; it has more than

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150,000 inhabitants. The manufactures of the city
are numerous and important, including extensive
machine-shops and iron-works, railroad-car factories,
tanneries, boot and shoe factories, chemicals, potteries,
manufactories of railway and vessel supplies, etc.
Pork and fish-packing employ numerous hands, and the
shipping interests are also large.

The Campus Martins on which the City Hall and
the Soldiers' Monument stand, is a charming open space,
600 ft. long and 250 ft. wide.

Of the churches in the city, special mention
deserve : the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul
(Catholic), St. Paul's (Episcopal), Fort St. Presbyterian
and Central Church (Methodist).

Whitney's Opera House is one of the finest in
America. The Police Headquarters Building and the
Freight Depot of the Michigan Central R. R. are the
most spacious and noteworthy structures in the city.
There are several educational and charitable institu
tions in this beautiful city, and the parks and suburbs
marvellously pretty. About 3 miles below the Michi
gan Central Depot, in whose neighborhood are the
great Wheat Elevators, is Fort Wayne, a bastioned
redoubt, standing upon the bank of the river and com
pletely commanding the channel.

In Detroit live relatives of my family, and they, as
well as the famous musical composer, Mr. Anton Stre-
letzki, a resident of that city, received me most cordially,
for which I here express my heartfelt thanks to them.

Before starting for the Dominion of Canada, I

— 311 —

visited Lansing, the capital of the State, with 9,776
inhabitants, magnificent State Buildings, and several
famous institutions. The city is beautifully situated,
and the trade and few manufactures are important.

The "Wolverine or Lake State," the State of
Michigan, whose name is of Indian origin, signifying
"Lake Country," had first white settlements within
limits of State, Sault Ste. Marie, 1668; organized as a
Teritory, 1805; admitted, 1837.

Area, 58,915 square miles; length of lower penin
sula, from north to south, 277 miles ; greatest breadth,
259 miles. Length of upper peninsula, east to west,
318 miles; width, 30 to 164 miles. Length, lake
shore line, 1,620 miles.

Temperature at Detroit: winter, 24° to 36°; sum
mer, 67° to 72°; rainfall, 30 inches.

Grand Rapids, manufacturing city; population,
41,934; Bay City, 29,413 inhabitants; East Saginaw
29,100; Jackson, 19,136; Muskegon, 17,845; Sagi
naw, 13,767.

Detroit, Marquette, Port Huron and Grand Haven
are ports of entry.

Number of farms, 154,008. Value per acre,
cleared land, $34.39 ; woodland, $20.27.

Fruit raising an important industry. Copper mines in
Houghton, Ontonagon, and Keweenaw counties ; valu
able iron ores in Marquette and Delta counties ; coal in
Shiawassee, Eaton, Ingham and Jackson counties.

Salt manufactured in year ending November 30,
1884, 3,252,175 barrels.

— 312 —

Ranks first in copper, lumber and salt; second in
iron ore.

Grand Haven, An Sable and Detroit are centers of
valuable fishing interests.

Population, incl. 17,548 Colored and 8,259 Indians:
1,843,369.

Duelists are excluded from voting.

Number of colleges, 9 ; efficient public schools ;
school age, 5—20.

Opposite Detroit, on Canadian soil, is the village
of Windsor, connected with Detroit by a steam-ferry,
on which the railroad train is carried across, and in 15
miles reaches Hamilton, a middle-sized, busy place,
and from here the Grand Trunk R. R. runs to Toronto,
the capital of the Province of Ontario. Situated on a
beautiful circular bay on the N. W. shore of Lake
Ontario, between the rivers Don and Humber, the
city is gently rising from its low site.

Toronto was founded in 1794 by Governor Simcoe,
who gave it the name of York, changed, when it was
incorporated as a city, in 1834, to Toronto- — meaning,
in the Indian tongue — "The Place of Meeting."

In 1813 it was twice captured by the Americans,
who destroyed the fortifications and burned the public
buildings. In 1817 the population was 1,200, and now
it is over 110,000.

Among the manufactures are iron and other
foundries, distilleries, flour-mills, breweries, paper,
furniture, etc. The finest buildings in the city and
among the finest of the kind in America are those of

— 313 — , >

the University of Toronto. The University Library
contains 20,000 volumes, and there is a- fine Museum
of Natural History. Knox College, the College of
Technology, the Normal School, Model Schools,
the Educational Museum, Trinity College, the
Upper Canada College, and the Public Library
are eminent schools of learning and beautiful struc
tures.

Among the churches, the Episcopal Cathedral of
St. James, the Wesleyan Methodist Church, and the
Cathedral of St. Michael (Catholic), are richly deco
rated, massive edifices. Osgoode Hall, containing the
Provincial Law Courts, the Provincial Lunatic Asy
lum, the General Hospital, Crystal Palace, Masonic
Hall, Grand Opera House and the Horticultural Gar
den-Pavilion and St. Lawrence Hall are noteworthy,
imposing buildings.

The Loretto Abbey is the principal nunnery in the
city, and the City Hall, Post Office, Custom House,
Court House and the Lawrence Market, unpretentious,
fine and spacious architectures. In the Queens Park
is the colossal marble statue of Britania, to the memory
of the Canadians who fell in repelling the Fenian in
vasion of 1866.

The trip down the St. Lawrence usually begins at
Kingston, which place I had reached from Toronto.
Kingston has 13,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the
foot of Lake Ontario. After leaving Kingston the
steamer enters the Lake of the Thousand Islands (in
the St, Lawrence).

— 314 —

These islands are 1,692 in number and they ex
tend for 40 miles below Lake Ontario.

They are of every imaginable size, shape and ap
pearance, some scarcely visible, and others covering
many acres, some consisting of bare masses of rock,
others thickly wooded. The numerous light-houses,
marking out the navigable channel are fragile wooden
structures of rather dreary appearance. The chief
summer resort of the Thousand Islands is Alexandria
Bay. On the islets near the bay are many elegant vil
las, among which one is owned by Mr. Pullman, of
palace-car fame. About 8 miles S. E. of Alexandria
Bay are the romantic Lakes of Theresa, (Clear, Crys
tal, Mud, Butterfield, and Lake of the North). Brock-
ville, on the Canadian shore, is nn important town of
nearly 6,000 inhabitants, and at this point in the river
the Lake of the Thousand Islands ends. Thirteen miles
from Brockville, on the Canadian side, lies Prcscott,
and opposite the nourishing American city of Ogdens-
burg. A few miles below Ogdensburg the descent of
the first rapids (Gallopes Rapids) is made, and imme
diately afterward of the Rapide dc Plat. Dickinson's
Landing is at the head of the famous Long Sault
Rapids, which are 9 miles in length. Here the cele
brated sensation, known as u Shooting the Rapids77 is
experienced. Until 1840 this passage was considered
impossible; but by watching the course of rafts down
the river, a channel was discovered and steamboats
then attempted it, for the first time, under the guid
ance of the Indian pilot Teronhiahere. The Cornwall

— 315 —

Canal, 11 miles long, enables vessels to go round the
Rapids in ascending the river.

Cornwall is a thriving town at the foot of the
Rapids, opposite which is the large Indian village of
St. Regis. Just below this place the St. Lawrence,
now entirely in Canada, expands into Lake St. Fran
cis, 25 miles long and 5 miles wide. Coteau du Lac,
30 miles below Cornwall, is at the head of the Coteau
Rapids, which, 9 miles belowr, take the name of the
Cedars, and, still further on, of the Cascades. At the
foot of the Cascades is Beauharnois, at the lower end
of a canal 11J miles long, around the Rapids. From
this point to the head of the Lachine Rapids the ex
panse of the river is called Lake St. Louis, which is
12 miles long and 5 miles "wide. One of the most
noticeable features of this lake is Nun's Island, former
ly an Indian burying-ground, but now the property
of the Grey Nunnery at Montreal. Lachine is at the
head of the Lachine Rapids which, though the short
est, are the most turbulent and dangerous on the river.
In calm water again, the spires, domes and towers of
Montreal are visible and soon afterward the city is
reached.

Montreal, the largest city and commercial metropo
lis of British North America, is situated on an island
of the same name, at the confluence of the Ottawa and
St. Lawrence Rivers, in lat. 45° 31' N. and Ion. 73°
35' W. I derives its name from Mont Real, or Mount
Royal, which rises 700 ft. above the river, and closes
the city in on that side. The quays of Montreal are

— 316 —

built of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and
cutstone wharves of the Lachine Canal, they present
for about 2 miles a display of continuous masonry
which has few parallels. The first visit to Montreal
dates from 1535, when Jacques Cartier arrived, who
named its mountain.

In 1642 arrived the first installment of European
settlers, and the original Indian name "Hochelaga" gave
place to the French one of {t Ville Marie.'7 This name
was afterward replaced by the present one. In Novem
ber 1775, Montreal was captured by the Americans
under General Montgomery and held until the follow
ing summer. In 1779 it contained about 7,000 inhabi
tants. In 1861 the population had increased to 90,323,
and in 1880 to 140,747. The commerce of Montreal is
very large, it being the chief shipping-port of the
Dominion of Canada. Its manufactures are varied and
important, the principal are axes and saws, steam-
engines, printing-types, India-rubber shoes, paper,
furniture, woolens, cordage, and flour.

The Court House contains a library of 15,000 vol
umes, and back of it is the Champ de Mars, a fine
military parade-ground.

The City Hall, the Bank of Montreal, Molson's
Bank, the huge Victoria Skating-Eink, used in sum
mer for horticultural shows, and the Mechanics7 Insti
tute are elaborately decorated structures.

Few American cities equal Montreal in the size and
magnificence of its church edifices. The Roman Catho
lic Parish Church of Notre-Dame is next to the Cathe-

— 317 —

dral of Mexico the largest on the continent, capable of
seating from 10,000 to 12,000 people. In one of the
six towers is a fine chime of bells, the largest of which,
the "Gros Bourdon," weighs 24,900 pounds. The
Cathedral of St. Peter, now in the course of erection,
(after the plan of St. Peter's at Rome), will surpass this
huge structure in size. Christ Church Cathedral
(Episcopal), the Church of the Gesu (Jesuit), and St.
Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), are the most eminent
of the numerous churches in this city.

First among the educational institutions is the Uni
versity of McGill College, with one of the finest mu
seums in the country.

The museum of the Natural History Society has
also a valuable collection, and the Seminary of St. Sul-
pice, for the education of Catholic Priests, is very
famous. The Grey Nunnery, the Black or Congrega
tional Nunnery, and the great Convent of the Holy
Names of Jesus and Mary are devoted to the education
of young persons of the female sex.

The Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644 for the cure of
the sick is an imposing structure, and the Montreal
General Hospital, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylums
are noble charities. The old Government House, the
Nelson Monument, the Water Works and the Bonse-
cours Market are of special interest and worth visiting.

The eighth wonder of the world, as it has been
called, is the Victoria Bridge in Montreal, wLIch spans
the St. Lawrence, connecting the city on the island
with the mainland to the S. The total cost of the

— 318 —

bridge, formally opened by the Prince of Wales, during
his visit to America in the summer of I860, was $6,-
300,000.

After seeing the Lachine Rapids most advanta
geously, I proceeded to the White Mountains, via
Grand Trunk R. R. to Gorham.

The aboriginal name of the White Mountains, the
"Switzerland" of America, was Agiochook or Agioco-
chook, signifying "Mountain of the Snowy Forehead
and Home of the Great Spirit." The first white man
to visit them, according to Belknap, the State Histor
ian, was Walter Neal, in 1632.

The White Mountains rise from a plateau in
Grafton and Coos Counties, New Hampshire, about 45
miles long by 30 broad, and 1,600 ft. above the sea.
Some 20 peaks of various elevations rise from the
plateau, which is traversed by several deep, narrow
valleys. The peaks cluster in two groups, of which
the eastern is known locally as the White Mountains,
and the western as the Franconia Group. They are
separated by a table-land varying from 10 to 20 miles
in breadth. The principal summits of the eastern
group are Mounts Washington, 6,293 ft. high, Adams,
5,759 ft., Jefferson, 5,657 ft., Madison, 5,361 ft., Mon
roe, 5,349 ft., Franklin, 4,850 ft., Pleasant, 4,712 ft.,
Webster, Clinton, and Clay. The principal summits
of the Franconia Group are Mounts Pleasant, Lafayette,
5,280 ft. high, Liberty, Cherry Mountain, and Moosi-
laukee. Near the S. border of the plateau rise White-
face Mountain, Chocorua Peak, Red Hill, and Mount

Ossipee ; and in the S. Ev Mount Kearsarge. With
the exceptions of the Black Mountains of North Caro
lina, several of these peaks are the highest elevations
in the United States E. of the Rocky Mountains.

Multitudes of little streams force their way down
steep giens from springs far up the mountain-sides, and
flow through narrow valleys among the hills. The
courses of these rivulets furnish irregular but certain
pathways for the rough roads that have been cut be
side them, and by which the traveler gains access to
these wild mountain-retreats.

Gorham is the N. E. gateway to the mountain-
region. It is a thriving village, situated in a broad
and beautiful valley at the confluence of the Andros-
coggin and Peabody Rivers, 800 ft. above the sea.
The scenery in the vicinity of the village is remarkably
striking, both in the views of the mountain-ranges and
isolated mountains, and of rivers and waterfalls. The
range of Mounts Moriali, Carter, and The Imp, in par
ticular is seen to great advantage.

Mount Carter is one of the highest and Mount
Moriah the most graceful of the larger New Hampshire
hills. The noble chain of hills to the N. W. of Gorham
is known as the Pilot Range j while on the E. and S.
E. the valley is walled in by the stalwart and brawny
Androscoggin Hills. Mount Hays, the highest of these
latter, 2,500 ft., is directly N. E. of the village and is
ascended in about 2 hours.

Though I had stayed a considerably long time in that
mountain-region, it is, nevertheless, impossible to de-

— 320 —

*

scribe all the visited spots, and concluding my graphics
on the White Mountains, I board a train of the Grand
Trunk R. R ., bound for Quebec.

Quebec, the oldest, and after Montreal the most
important city in British North America, is situated on
the N. W. bank of the St. Lawrence River, at its con
fluence with the St. Charles, nearly 300 miles from the
Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is built on the N. extremity
of an elevated tongue of land which forms the left bank
of the St. Lawrence for several miles. Cape Diamond,
so called from the numerous quartz-crystals former
ly found there, is the loftiest part of the headland, 333
ft. above the river, on which the vast fortifications of
the Citadel are located. They occupy about 40 acres,
and were once considered so impregnable, that they ob
tained for Quebec the name of the (f Gibraltar of
America." The city is divided into the Upper and
Lower Town, the ascent from the latter is very steep
and winding and called Mountain Street, or Cote de la
Montagne.

The site of Quebec was visited by Cartier in 1534,
and the city was founded by Champlain in 1608. It
was taken by the English in 1629, and restored to
France by the treaty of 1632. In 1690 the neighbor
ing English colonies made an unsuccessful maritime
expedition against it, and in 1711 the attempt was re
newed, with no better success. In 1759, during the
Seven Years* War, the English under General Wolfe
attacked the city and bombarded it. On September
13, the first battle of the plains of Abraham took place,

— 321 —

in which both Wolfe and Montealm, the French Com
mander, fell, and England gained at one blow an
American Empire. The French recaptured the city
the next spring, but at the treaty of peace in 1763
Louis XV ceded the whole of New France to the Eng
lish. In December 1775, a small American force,
under General Montgomery, attempted its capture, but
failed, after losing 700 men and their commander.
The population of the city at that time was only 5,000.
In 1861 it was 59,900, and in 1881, 62,500. Quebec
has a large maritime commerce and is one of the great
est lumber and timber markets on the American Con
tinent. The chief articles of manufactures are ships,
saw-mill products, boots and shoes, confectionery,
bakery-products, furniture, foundry-products, machin
ery, paper, leather, cutlery, musical instruments, and
India-rubber goods.

The five original gates in the city wall were re
moved some years ago, but new ones of a more or
namental character have since been built, viz. : Kent
Gate, named in honor of the father of Queen Victoria, the
Duke of Kent; St. Louis Gate, and St. John's Gate.
Dufferin Terrace, lies along the edge of the cliff,
towering 200 ft. above the river, and overlooking the
Lower Town. Part of it occupies the site of the old
Chateau St. Louis, built by Champlain in 1620, and
destroyed by fire in 1834. Dufferin Terrace, opened
to the public in June, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome
and Princess Louise, is an unequalled promenade over

•J mile long.

21

— 322 —

The outlook from the Terrace is one of the finest
in the world. The Esplanade is another attractive
promenade. The view from the Grand Battery is
considered by some finer even than that from the Ter
race.

Laval University contains a spacious chemical
laboratory, with complete apparatus 5 the geological,
mineralogical, and botanical collections ; the museum
of zoology, containing upward of 1,300 different birds
and 7,000 insects; and the especially complete museum
of the medical department. The Library numbers
nearly 90,000 volumes, and the Picture Gallery is one
of the finest. The Quebec Literary and Historical
Society has rich collections of manuscripts. The
Seminary of Quebec, founded 1663 by M. de Laval,
first bishop of Quebec, contains in its Chapel some fine
paintings. Morrin College has in its buildings the
museums of the Historical Society and the library, con
taining 12,000 volumes.

The former Cathedral of Quebec, now the Basilica,
is a spacious cut-stone building, seating 4,000 persons
and contains in its richly decorated interior several
original paintings of Vandyke, Caracci, Halle and
others. In this Basilica lie the remains of Cham plain,
the founder and first Governor of the city. There are
numerous churches and chapels in Quebec, some of them
handsome edifices.

Other noteworthy buildings are the Ursuline Con
vent, founded in 1639; in the Chapel of the Convent
are some original paintings by Vandyke, Champagne,

— 323 —

and others, and here are buried the remains of the
Marquis de Montcalm; the Grey Nunnery, which has
a richly ornamented Chapel 5 the Hotel Dieu, with its
convent and chapel, founded in 1639, by the Duchess
d'Aiguillon, and in whose convent chapel are some
valuable paintings; the Black Nunnery 5 the Post-
Office; Custom House; Marine Hospital; General
Hospital; and the Parliament and Departmental Build
ings (not completed), and numerous others. The
historic Plains of Abraham are in the suburbs, and on
the spot where General Wolfe fell in the memorable
battle of September 13, 1759, stands Wolfe's Monument.
On the plains stands the Monument commemorating the
victory won by the Chevalier de Levis over General
Murray in 1760.

Within excursion distance of Quebec are several
points of interest and fine drives. Lorette, an ancient
village of the Huron Indians, is 9 miles distant, and the
Falls of the Little River, near the village, are very
picturesque. Eight miles below Quebec are the Falls
of Montmorenci, wonderfully beautiful, and the Falls of
Chaudiere, ten miles from the city. The rapid river
plunges, in a sheet 350 ft. wide, over a precipice 150
ft. .high, presenting very much the look of boiling
water.

The Quarantine for Quebec is at Grosse Isle, 30
miles down, and a little beyond Chateau Richer is St.
Anne de Beaupre, famous for its church of St. Anne, in
which miraculous cures are said to be effected by the
relics of the Saint, which are exhibited at morning

— 324 —

mass. The celebrated Falls of St. Anne are very
beautiful. The lower fall is 130 ft. high, and below it
the water rushes down through a somber, and picture
sque ravine.

Eight miles below St. Anne is Cape Tourment, a
bold promontory, and a little beyond are the frowning
peaks of Cape Rouge and Cape Gribaune.

From Goose Island to the Saguenay River, the St.
Lawrence is about 20 miles wide, and black whales are
often seen in its waters. Riviere du Loup, and Caco-
una, 6 miles below, the favorite summer resort of the
Canadians, are miraculously pretty places, and opposite
the latter is the mouth of the Saguenay River. Tado-
usac was the first place visited, en route the Saguenay
River. It is a small village, situated a short distance
above the mouth of the river, and apart from its attrac
tions as a watering-place, is interesting as the spot on
which stood the first stone-and-mortar building ever
erected by Europeans on the Continent of America.
The scenery here is wild and romantic in the extreme.
St. John's Bay, Eternity Bay, the latter offering the
most striking feature of the river scenery, are unequal
led, and farther on is Statue Point, a grand bowlder,
1,000 ft. high, noticeable for a cave half way up
its face, utterly inaccessible from above or below,
and still farther above is Le Tableau, a lofty plateau.
A few miles beyond is the entrance to Ha! Ha! Bay,
which runs 7 miles S. W. from the Saguenay River. It
was so named on account of the delightful contrast
which the first French Voyagers there beheld after the

— 325 —

awful solitude of the lower river. Chicoutimi, about
20 miles above Ha ! Ha ! Bay , is the head of navigation
on the river, and has considerable trade. Before
entering the Saguenay, the Chicoutimi River plunges
over a granite ledge 50 ft. high. Nine miles above
Chicoutimi begin the Rapids of the Saguenay, said to
be little inferior in grandeur to those of the Niagara and
a great deal longer.

The Saguenay is the largest tributary of the St.
Lawrence, and undoubtedly one of the most remarkable
rivers in the world. Its head-water is Lake St. John,
40 miles long and nearly as wide, which, although 11
large rivers fall into it, has no other outlet than the
Saguenay.

The original name of this river was Chicoutimi, an
Indian word, signifying deep water; and its present
name is said to be a corruption of St. Jean Nez. The
course of the Saguenay is about 140 miles from Lake
St. John to the St. Lawrence, which it enters 120 miles
below Quebec.

Per Grand Trunk R. R. via Coteau, and afterward
per Canada Atlantic, and the Gtmadian Pacific Rail
Roads, I continued my voyage to Ottawa.

The capital of the Dominion of Canada is situated
one the S. bank of the Ottawa river, at the mouth of
the Rideau. It is divided into the Upper and Lower
Town by the Rideau Canal, which passes through it
and connects it with Kingston, on Lake Ontario.
Bridges also connect the city with the towns of Hull
and New Edinburgh, on the opposite side of the Ottawa

— 326 —

river. Ottawa was originally called Bytown, in honor
of Colonel By, of the Royal Engineers, by whom it was
laid out in 1827. It was incorporated as a city under
its present name, 1854, and was selected by Queen
Victoria as the seat of the Canadian Government in
1858.

It has 40,000 inhabitants, and is the entrepot of the
lumber-trade of the Ottawa and its tributaries, and has
a number of large saw-millls, several flour-mills, and
manufactories of iron-castings, mill-machinery, agricul
tural implements, etc.

The Government Buildings are the chief feature of
the city and cost $4,000,000. They contain the vari
ous Government bureaus, the Post-Office, the Model-
Room of the Patent-Office, the Senate Hall, the Cham
ber of Commons, and the Library, containing 40,000
volumes.

The official residence of the Governor-General, is in
New Edinburgh, across the Rideau river.

After the Government Buildings the most imposing
edifice in the city is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of
Notre Dame. In the interior of the Cathedral is a
painting by Murillo, representing the "Flight into
Egypt." The Ottawa University, the Ladies College,
and the Normal School, and Model College, the great
geological Institute, are eminent schools.

There are in the city two convents, two hospitals,
three orphan asylums, a Magdalen asylum and the Grey
and Black Nunneries.

The scenery in the vicinity of Ottawa is really

— 327 —

grand, at the W. extremity are the Chaudiere Falls.
The Rideau Falls, two in number, are very attractive.

Returned to Montreal for the purpose of obtaining
official statistics, and than to explore the Adirondacks,
Lake George, and Lake Champlain before starting for
New York ; I consider it my duty to publicly express
my sincerest thanks to the numerous friends, left behind
in the hospitable Dominion of Canada, for the many
favors conferred upon me; especially to the German
Consul Mr. Munderloh and his Secretary, the amiable
families of Messrs. Boas and Moss, and the learned
body of McGill University, in particular the Botan
ist Penhallou, and to several clergymen in Montreal;
to the acting Prime Minister, Mr. Pierre Garneau,
and the German Consul in Quebec; to the Scientists
of the Geological Institution, and to Professor Fletcher
of the Experimental Agricultural Station in Ottawa,
by whose kindness I was enabled to send a rich col
lection to Europe.

The most populous Province of the Dominion of
Canada is Ontario, established in 1867. Previous to
1791 it formed part of the Province of Quebec; from
1791 to 1840 known as Upper Canada; in 1840 re
united with Quebec, under the name of Canada.

Area, (census of 1881), 101,733 square miles. Total
land occupied, 19,259,909 acres; improved, 11,294,-
109 acres, of which 8,370,266 acres were under crops;
2,619,038 acres in pasture, and 304,805 acres in gar
dens and orchards.

Temperature at Toronto: winter, 4.8° to 62.5° 5

— 328 --

summer, 38.7° to 92.7°; mean temperature, 44.16°.
Rainfall at Toronto, 28.43 inches. The surface of the
country is diversified by numerous lakes and rivers.

The agricultural resources are very great, and the
mineral wealth varied and rich.

Public affairs are administered by a Lieutenant
Governor, assisted by an Executive Council of 6, and
a House of Assembly of 89 members. Ontario sends
24 members to the Dominion Senate.

Population of the Province, 1881,1,923,228. Num
ber of churches, 5,075; of which 2,375 are Metho
dists, 852 Presbyterian, 680 Church of England, 389
Baptist, and 367 Roman Catholic. There are 21 hos
pitals, and 22 orphanages. Number of colleges and
universities, 17; boarding schools, 44.

There is an excellent system of free schools under
the control of a Minister of Education and a Chief
Superintendent. School population, 405,857. Num
ber of high schools, public and private, 410; public
elementary schools, 5,313.

The agricultural products are wheat, barley, oats,
rye, beans, peas, buck-wheat, corn, potatoes, turnips,
hay, grass and clover seed, flaxseed, tobacco, and
hops.

Timber in abundance; and the 681 fisheries in the
Province very important.

Quebec is one of the most important of the Cana
dian Provinces. Earliest settlements made by Euro
peans, in 1541; first permanent settlement made by
the French on the present site of the city of Quebec,

— 329 —

1608. Country occupied by the French until 1759,
when, through the victory of General Wolfe, it fell into
the hands of the English.

Area, census of 1881, 188,688 square miles.

Total amount of land occupied, 12,625,877 acres ;
improved, 6,410,264 acres, of which 4,147,984 were
under crop, 2,207,422 in pasture, and 54,858 in gar
dens and orchards. Population, 1,359,027. While
the climate is similar to that of Ontario, it is colder in
winter, and warmer in summer. At Montreal the
winters are very severe, the temperature often ranging
from zero to 10° and even 30° below it, and in sum
mer it is frequently 90° in the shade.

Public affairs are administered by a Lieutenant
Governor, assisted by an Executive Council, a Legis
lative Council of 24 members, and a Legislative As
sembly of 65 members.

The Province sends 24 members to the Dominion
Senate. The surface of the country is varied, consist
ing of extensive forests, large rivers, lakes and prai
ries, and bold rocky heights. The Province abounds
in numerous minerals. Among the agricultural pro
ducts are wheat, barley, oats, rye, peas, beans, buck
wheat, corn, potatoes, turnips, grass and clover seed,
hay, tobacco and hops. Public instruction is under
a Superintendent of Education; school population,
209,623. Number of elementary public schools, 4,404;
pupils, 170,858; colleges, 44; academies, 246 ; special
schools, 18; normal, 3; model, 333.

The forests are extensive, and the lumbering and

— 330 —

*

shipbuilding interests are large. The products of the
fisheries are very valuable.

The prevailing religion is Roman Catholic.

The number adhering to that faith is, 1,170,718,
or about seven-eights of the entire population. Num
ber of churches in the Province, 1,280, of which 712
are Roman Catholics.

Number of hospitals, 29 5 orphanages, 11.

Among the statistics, those of British Columbia
were also kindly given to me, and, since I had exten
sively traveled in that distant Province, I am only too
glad to reproduce the same.

The Colony of British Columbia was established
1858, and admitted into the Dominion, 1871. Area,
including Vancouver's Island, 341,305 square miles.
Population, 49,459. Climate milder than that of same
latitude on the Atlantic coast. Country traversed
by Rocky and Cascade Mountains. Loftiest peak,
Mount Browne, 16,000 ft. high. Government consists
of a Lieutenant GoA^ernor, an Executive Council, and
a Legislative Assembly, elected by the people. Amount
of land occupied, 441,255 acres 5 improved, 184,885
acres. The grain product, potatoes and hops, impor
tant, and timber in abundance. The mineral wealth of
the Province is very great, the chief source being coal.
On the mainland and Vancouver's Island large deposits
of bituminous coal are found, and on Queen Charlotte's
Island a fine grade of anthracite. Gold is found in
various localities. In ten years the yield in the Pro
vince exceeded $22,000,000.

— 331 —

The Adirondacks, situated in the northern part of
New York State, between Lakes George and Cham-
plain on the E., and the St. Lawrence on the N. W.,
extend on the north to Canada and on the S. nearly to
the Mohawk River. The mountains rise from- an ele
vated plateau, which extends over this portion of the
country for 150 miles in width and 100 in length, and
is itself nearly 2,000 ft. above the level of the sea.
Five ranges of mountains, running almost parallel,
traverse this plateau from southwest to northeast, where
they terminate on the shore of Lake Champlain. The
most westerly, which bears the name of the Clinton
Range, begins at Little Falls and terminates at Trem-
bleau Point, on Lake Champlain. It contains the
highest peaks of the entire region, the loftiest being
Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, 5,337 ft. high, while
Mounts Seward, Mclntire, McMartin, Whiteface, Dix
Peak, Golden, Santanoni, Snowy Mountain and Pharaoh
are none far from 5,000 ft. high. The entire number
of mountains in the Adirondack region is supposed to
exceed 500, of which only a few have received separ
ate names. They are all wild and savage, and covered
with the "forest primeval/' except the stony summits
of the highest, which rise above all vegetation, but
that of mosses, grasses, and dwarf Alpine plants.

There are many beautiful lakes and ponds in the
mountain-valleys, numbering about 1,000. The gene
ral level of these lakes is about 1,500 ft. above the sea,
but Lake Perkins, the highest of them, has an eleva
tion of over 4,000 ft. Some are only a few acres in

— 332 —

length, others cover 20 miles. Among the largest are
Long Lake, the Saranacs, Tupper, the Fulton Lakes,
and Lake Golden, Henderson, Sanford, Blue Mountain,
Kaquette, Forked, Newcomb, and Pleasant. This
labyrinth of lakes is connected by a very intricate sys
tem of rivers, rivulets, and brooks. The Saranac and
the Ausable run in nearly parallel lines toward the N.
E., discharging their waters into Lake Cham plain.

The largest and most beautiful river of the Adiron
dack region is the Raquette, rising in Raquettc Lake,
and after a devious course of 120 miles flowing into
the St. Lawrence.

The mountains are covered with forests, whilst in
the lower lands, along the rivers, a dense growth of
evergreens is common. In these solitudes are found
the black bear, the wolf, the lynx, the wild-cat, and
the wolverine.

Deer is abundant, also numerous smaller animals,
and birds, and the lakes and rivers swarm with fish.

Birmingham Falls, caused by the Ausable River
flowing over the Alice Falls, and then descending a
line of swirling rapids, where it plunges over a preci
pice 70 ft. high into a semicircular basin, is of great
beauty. A few rods further down are the Horse
shoe Falls, near which the gorge is entered from
above by a stairway of 166 steps leading down
a cleft in the rock. Below this the stream grows
narrower and deeper, and rushes through Ausable
Chasm, where at the narrowest point a wedged bowlder
cramps the channel to the width of 6 or 8 ft. Still

— 333 —

lower down the walls stand about 50 ft. apart and are
more than 100 ft. high, descending to the water's edge
in a sheer perpendicular line. The chasm is nearly
2 miles long and offers very striking and beautiful
effects.

The Upper Saranac Lake, the largest and one of
the most beautiful of the Adirondack lakes, is 8 miles
long and from 1 to 3 miles wide, and its surface is
studded with little islands.

To describe all the beautiful spots in the Adiron-
dacks would fill volumes.

Lake George is a picturesque sheet of water in
Warren and Washington Counties, in New York State.
It is 33 miles long, and from f of a mile to 4 miles
wide. It is the most famous and most frequented of
American lakes. The scenery of its banks is admir
ably pretty, and the lake is bordered on either side by
high hills crowned with woods, etc. It empties into
Lake Champlain, from which it is separated by a
narrow ridge only 4 miles wide. The Indian name of
Lake George was "Horicon," meaning " silvery
waters ; " when the French discovered it, early in the
17th century, they named it "Le Lac du St. Sacra
ment," but its English conquerors called it after King
George II., then on the throne.

Lake George fills a conspicuous and romantic place
in American history. In the French and Indian War
it was repeatedly occupied by large armies, and was
the scene of several battles. In an engagement near
the S. end of the Lake, September 8? 1755, between

— 334 —

the French and English, Colonel Williams of Massa
chusetts, the founder of Williams College, was killed,
Baron Dieskau, the French commander, severely
wounded, and the French totally defeated.

In 1757, Fort William Henry, at the same end of
the lake, was besieged by the French General Mont-
calm, at the head of 8,000 men. The garrison capitu
lated after a gallant defense, and were barbarously
massacred by the Indian allies of the French. In July,
1758, the army of General Abercrombie, about 15,000
strong, passed up the lake in 1,000 boats, and made an
unsuccessful attack on Ticonderoga. A year latter,
July, 1759, General Amherst, with an almost equal
force, also traversed the lake, and took Ticonderoga
and Crown Point. The head of Lake George was
the depot for the stores of the army of General Bur-
goyne before he began his march to Saratoga.

The most interesting points on the route to Lake
George are Glens Falls, on the Hudson river, at a fine
cataract 50 ft. high, and Caldwell, near the ruins of
old Fort George.

The nearest island to Caldwell is Tea Island,
bordered with picturesque rocks, and a mile and a half
beyond is Diamond Island, so named on account of the
beautiful quartz-crystals found on it in abundance.
Dome Island, richly wooded, is near the center of the
widest part of the lake, and there arc hundreds of other
strikingly beautiful places in and around Lake George,
which to describe is almost an impossibility.

Lake Chainplain, extending from Whitehall, in the

— 335 —

State of New York, to St. John's, in Canada, is 126
miles long, and varies in breadth from 40 rods to 12£
miles; containing upward of 50 islands and islets.
It depth varies from 54 to 399 ft., and vessels of 800
or 1,000 tons navigate its whole extent. The princi
pal rivers entering the lake are Wood Creek at its
head; the outlet of Lake George, the Ausable, Saranac,
and Chazy, from Nevy York; and Otter, Winooski,
Lamoille, and Missisquoi, from Vermont. The outlet
of the lake is the Sorel or Richelieu River, sometimes
called the St. John's, which empties into the St.
Lawrence, and with the Chambly Canal, affords a
passage for vessels to the ocean. On the south it com
municates, by means of the Champlain Canal, with the
Hudson River at Troy. The waters of the lake abound
with fish, and, filling a valley inclosed by high moun
tains, the lake is celebrated for its magnificent scenery,
which embraces the Green Mountains of Vermont on
the E. and the Adirondack Mountains of New York on
the W.

Fort Ticonderoga is a station on the lake, at the foot
of Mount Defiance. Ticonderoga village is 2 miles from
the steamboat-landing, and about 1 mile to the N., on
a high hill, are the ruins oT the famous old Fort Ticon
deroga, with fine views from the crumbling ramparts,
though the views from the top of Mount Defiance are
still finer. Mount Independence lies in Vermont, and
Mount Hope, an elevation about a mile W. of Ticon
deroga, was occupied by Burgoyne previous to the re
capture of the fort in 1777. Leaving the landing at

— 336 —

Fort Ticonderoga the steamer runs to Shoreham, on
the Vermont shore, and thence crosses the lake to the
village of Crown Point, with fine mountain-views all
the way. Six miles below, is the rugged promontory
of Crown Point, which was the site of Fort St. Frederic,
erected by the French in 1731, and of a much stronger
work subsequently erected by the English, the massive
ruins of which are still plainly visible. Fine views are
obtained from the bastions of the old fort. Opposite
Crown Point, on the Vermont shore, is Chimney Point.
Between them the lake is very narrow, but opens out
above into the broad BuJwagga Bay, on the W. shore
of which is the pretty village of Port Henry, with ex
tensive iron-works and ore-beds. Just beyond Port
Henry the scenery is exceedingly fine. To the E. the
Green Mountains with their lofty peaks, Mount Mans
field and Camel's Hump, rise against the distant horizon j
and on the W. the Adirondack Hills mingle their blue
tops with the clouds.

Here also as on the Lake George, the scenery is
wild romantic and the eye gets dazzled at the many
charmingly attractive spots.

Returned to Glens Falls, thence to Fort Edward, I
reached Saratoga Springs, in the State of New York.
This is one of the most famous places of summer resort
in America and is frequented by Americans from all
parts of the country, and by foreign travelers from all
parts of Europe

The Mineral Springs, which have given the place
its celebrity, and the majestic trees, shading several of

— 337 -jp

its streets, are almost the only natural attractions. As
a mere spectacle, the brilliancy of this place during
the summer-months, is nowhere excelled in the United
States.

There are in all 28 springs at Saratoga, the most
popular of which is the Congress Spring. The Geyser
Spring, on Ballston road, 1J mile from Saratoga, whose
waters are so highly charged with carbonic-acid gas
that it foams and exhilarates like Champagne, is very
frequented.

Among buildings of interest at Saratoga, are the
magnificent hotels, the High-School Building, the
Temple Grove Seminary for Young Ladies, Yates
Institute for Young Men, and the Central Fire De
partment Building. There are numerous fine private
residences and suburban drives in and near Sara
toga.

The Congress Park and the Boulevard are beauti
ful places. The population of Saratoga is 11,000, but
during the season there are often 30,000 people in the
place. The name Saratoga, Indian, Saraghoga signi
fies "the place of herrings," which formerly passed up
the Hudson into Saratoga Lake.

In the vicinity of the Springs is Saratoga Lake, a
beautiful lake, 8 miles long and 2J wide, a favorite re
sort.

Another pleasant resort is Mount McGregor, 11
miles from Saratoga, lying 1,000 ft. higher than the
Springs, and 1,200 ft. above the sea, now famous as the
death-place of General Grant.

^ 22

— 338 —

The cottage where he died has been ceded to the
State of New York.

By way of Whitehall, an excursion was made to
Vermont, via Eensselaer and Saratoga R. R., and in 9
miles the train runs to Fairhaven, where there are
extensive slate-quarries, and one mile beyond is the
beautiful village of Hydeville, at the foot of Lake
Bomoseen. Four miles farther is Castleton, a pretty
village, situated on a plain and surrounded by pleasing
scenery. In the township are extensive slate-quarries,
from which is made an imitation of marble of wonder
ful perfection. A State Normal School is located in
the village.

About seven miles from Castleton is West Rutland,
noted for its vast marble-works, and in 4 miles the
prosperous town of Rutland is reached.

The town is picturesquely situated, and has 12,149
inhabitants. It contains some fine public and com
mercial buildings, the State Workhouse, and the ex
tensive Howe Scale Works. In the vicinity are
numerous quarries and marble-works. Seven miles E.,
is Killington Peak, 3,924 ft. high, and the view from
its summit is very fine.

Brandon, a manufacturing village of 3,500 in
habitants, with marble-quarries, large deposits of ex
cellent bog iron-ore, and several factories where
mineral paint is made from kaolin-mines in the vicinity,
is L7 miles from Rutland. The beautiful mountain-
lake, Lake Dunmore, nestles at the foot of the loftiest
range of the Green mountains.

— 339 —

Middlebury, situated on Otter Creek, at some fine
falls in that stream, has a population of about 3,000.
and is distinguished as the seat of Middlebury College,
founded in 1800. There is a library in that handsome-
built village, containing 14,000 volumes and a small
natural history collection. Fourteen miles beyond
Middlebury is Vergennes, the oldest city in Vermont,
and one of the smallest in the Union, with a population
of little more than 1,500. It is situated on Otter
Creek, 8 miles from Lake Champlain, and near the
Falls, which have a descent of 37 feet. Commodore
McDonough's fleet, which won the naval battle of
Lake Champlain, September 11, 1814, was fitted out
at Vergennes.

The last place visited in the State of Vermont was
Burlington, the largest city in the State, finely situated
upon the eastern shore of Lake Champlain, on a ground
gradually rising from the water to a height of 367 ft.
It was first permanently settled in 1783. In 1885 the
population amounted to 13,500, and it has some of the
largest mills in the country for planing and dressing
lumber, and extensive factories of articles of wood,
such as doors, packing-boxes, spools, etc., and of
cotton and marble. The city is beautifully built, and
several of the churches are superb architectures, as
are also most of its public buildings. The Fletcher
Library contains 18,000 volumes. The University of
Vermont, incorporated in 1791, organized in 1800, is
open to both sexes 5 its corner-stone was laid by
Lafayette in 1825. The State Agricultural College was

— 340 —

united with it in 1825. It lias a library of 27,000
volumes, and a museum containing upward of 50,000
specimens in natural history. The Billlings Library
given to the College at a cost of $100,000, contains the
collection belonging to the late Geo. P. Marsh, and is
the best collection of books in the nothcrn languages in
the world. The Mary Fletcher Hospital, from the top of
which the finest lake-view in America is obtained, is an
admirably beautiful building. Lake View Cemetery,
on the shore of the lake, is one of the finest • in the
State, and in Green Mount Cemetery lie the remains of
Ethan Allen, under a granite shaft 42 ft. high, sur
mounted by a marble statue of the old hero.

The Depot of the Vermont Central It. R. is an
extensive building, and the Court House, Custom
House and Post-Office, and the City Hall and Opera
House are very handsome. Other buildings of interest
are the Lake View Eetreat (a private insane asylum),
and the Providence Orphan Asylum (Roman Catho
lic).

The " Green Mountain State," State of Vermont,
was first settled by Massachusetts emigrants near
Battleboro, 1724; admitted, 1791. Vermont was the
first State to join the original 13 States.

Area, 9,565 square miles; length, 150 miles;
breadth, 35 to 50 miles. Lake Champlain frontage,
over 100 miles ; Burlington the chief harbor.

Temperature at Burlington: winter, 18° to 33° ;
summer, 66° to 71°. Rainfall, 34 inches.

Death rate, only 1.07 per cent, per annum.

— 341 —

Montpellier, capital, is beautifully situated on the
Winooski river, in a narrow valley surrounded by
hills. Its population is 4,000, and in the portico of its
beautiful Capitol is a marble statue of Ethan Allen.
In the building is the State Library, containing 15,000
volumes, and the historical and geological cabinets, and
the flags carried by the Vermont volunteers during the
civil war.

Population of Bennington, 6,333, and of St. Albans,
7,193.

Number of farms, 35,522. Average value per acre,
cleared land, $17.73; woodland, $15.28. Mineral
wealth of great value, manganese, copper pyrites, iron
ore, and gold deposits have been found. Black, white,
red, and variegated marbles are abundant; annual
value of marble, over $3,000,000, and of slate, about
$1,000,000.

Number of different industries, 2,874, giving em
ployment to 17,540 persons. Number of butter and
cheese establishments, 85; flour and grist, 227;
furniture, 56 ; leather tanning, 53 ; lumber sawing,
688 ; marble and stone work, 69 ; wares of tin, sheet-
iron and copper, 95.

Population: 332,286, incl. 1,057 Colored and 11
Indians.

Number of Colleges, 2; school population, 99,463;
school age, 5-20.

Devoting my time to a repeated exploration of the
State of New York, the city of Schenectady, 17 miles
from the capital of New York State, was begun with.

— 342 —

Schenectady is a city of 13,675 inhabitants, situ
ated on the right bank of the Mohawk River, on a
spot which once formed the council-grounds of the Mo
hawks. It is one of the oldest towns in the State, a
trading-post having been established here by the
Dutch in 1620, and is distinguished as the seat of
Union College, founded in 1 795 and now a famous in
stitution.

Leaving Schenectady, the train crosses the Mohawk
River and the Erie Canal on a bridge nearly 1,000 ft.
long, and traverses a rich farming country to Amster
dam, and in 1 1 miles to Fonda.

Sharon Springs is reached from the latter place by
stage. Situated in a narrow valley surrounded by
high hills, the village of Sharon Springs in Schoharie
County, New York, is chiefly noted for its mineral
springs, of which there are 4 ; chalybeate, magnesia,
white sulphur, and blue sulphur. The Magnesia and
White Sulphur Springs resemble the White Sulphur
Springs of Virginia. Though the waters are drunk to
a considerable extent, the specialty of the place is its
baths. Besides the water-baths, mud-baths are ad
ministered. The drives arid rambles are very pleasant
and from the summit of the hill over the village, a
beautiful view is obtained, including the Mohawk
Valley, the Adirondacks, and the Green Mountains of
Vermont.

Little Falls, which is remarkable for a bold pas
sage of the river and canal through a wild and most
picturesque defile 5 and the already described beautiful

city of Utica, the great railroad and canal center and
where there is located the State Insane Asylum; and Tren
ton Falls, on the W. Canada Creek, a tributary of the
Mohawk, whose descent is 312 ft. in a distance of 2
miles by a series of beautiful cataracts, have to be
passed before Oneida Lake is reached. Chittenango
and Syracuse are on the line on which, in 17 miles,
the charming Lake Skaneateles is reached. The lake
is 16 miles long, from 1 to 1J miles wide; 860 ft.
above the sea, and is surrounded by hills rising 1,200
ft. above the surface. Eight miles farther on is the hand
some city of Auburn, with 21,924 inhabitants, situated
near Owasco Lake, which finds its outlet through the
town.

Auburn State Prison covers 18 acres of ground.
The city was long the home of the late Wm. H. Se-
ward, and his grave is in the pleasant cemetery on
Fort Hill. The County Court House, the Theological
Seminary, and the Churches of St. Peter (Epicopal),
St. Mary's (Rom. Cath.), and the First Presbyterian
are exceedingly fine edifices. Owasco Lake, 3 miles
from Auburn, is a summer resort, and Cayuga Lake, 8
miles from the former lake, is 38 miles long, and
from 1 to 3J wide. At the S. end lies Ithaka, one of
the loveliest cities in the State, noted as the seat of
Cornell University, and surrounded by the most
charming and romantic scenery. Founded in 1865,
this institution has already become one of the leading
educational establishments of the country. There are
a series of cascades and waterfalls in its vicinity, vary-

— 344 —

ing from 30 to 160 ft. in height. The beautiful
Ithaka Fall, 150 ft. broad and 160 ft. high, is about a
mile distant in Ithaka Gorge, said to contain more
waterfalls within the space of a mile than any other
place in America.

The celebrated Taghkanic Falls are 10 miles from
Ithaka. The Taghkanic Creek flows through a com
paratively level country until it encounters a rocky
ledge lying directly across its course, and then the
waters fall perpendicularly through a chasm, which the
stream has succeeded in excavating 215 ft, into the
rocky basin, forming a cataract more than 50 ft. higher
than the Niagara. Five miles beyond Cayuga is the
manufacturing village of Seneca Falls, and 10 miles
farther is the Academic City of Geneva, beautifully
situated at the foot of Seneca Lake, noted for its educa
tional institutions, of which Hobart College (Episco
pal), is the most important. Seneca Lake, one of the
largest and most enchanting in the State, is 35 miles
long and 1 to 4 miles wide, is very deep and never
freezes over.

Fatigued from my last, rather long lasting journeys,
I proceeded to New York city, only to start anew after
a short rest and thus terminate my explorations in the
State of New York, and in the United States in gene
ral.

West Point is one of the most attractive places on
the Hudson River. It is the seat of the National
Military Academy. The most noteworthy of the
buildings are the Barracks of the Cadets, the Academic

— 345 —

Building, the library , containing 26,000 volumes, and
in which is the Observatory and the Mess Hall.

The Museum of Ordnance and Trophies, and the
Chapel are interesting. The Parade-Ground is very
spacious, beautifully laid out and contains several fine
monuments.

Fort Putnam, on Mount Independence, 600 ft.
above the river, is not far from here, and from the
crumbling walls of the Fort excellent views are ob
tained.

New York City, the commercial metropolis of the
United States, and largest city of the Western Hemis
phere, is situated on New York Bay, in latitude 41°
N. and longitude 71° W. from Greenwich, at the junc
tion of the Hudson or North River, and of the East
River. It occupies the entire surface of Manhattan
Island; Randall's, Ward's, and Black well's Islands in
the East River; Bedloe's, Ellis's, and Governor's Is
lands in the Bay, used by the U. S. Government; and
a portion of the mainland, annexed from Westchester
County, north of Manhattan Island and separated from
it by Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvel Creek. The
harbor of New York is one of the finest and most pictu
resque in the world. The outer bar is at Sandy Hook,
and is crossed by 2 ship-channels. The villa-crowned
shores of Staten and Long Islands, the massive battle
ments of Fort Wadsworth and Fort Tompkins, and on
the Long Island shore, Fort Hamilton and old Fort
Lafayette, famous as a political prison; Bedloes Island
with the colossal statue of Liberty which France has

— 346 —

presented to the City of New York, and Governor's
Island with Castle William and old Fort Columbus, lie
majestically on both sides of the bay and harbor, a
panorama of phenomenal beauty and grandeur.

The site of New York is said to have been dis
covered by Verazzani, a Florentine mariner, in 1524;
but authentic history begins with the visit of Henry
Hudson, an Englishman in the service of the Dutch
East India Company, who arrived there September 3,
1609, Hudson afterward ascended the river as far as
the site of Albany, and claimed the land by right of dis
covery as an appanage of Holland. In 1614 a Dutch
colony came over and began a settlement. At the close
of the year the future metropolis consisted of a small
fort and four houses and was known as New Amsterdam.
As late as 1648 it contained but 1,000 inhabitants. In
1684 it was surrendered to the British, and passing
into the hands of the Duke of York, was thenceforward
called New York. In 1667 the city contained 384
houses. In 1670 the population had increased to about
6,000. In 1696 Trinity Church was founded. In 1711
a slave-market was established in Wall Street ; and in
1725 the New York Gazette was started. The Ame
rican army under Washington occupied the city in
1776 ; but after the battles of Long Island and Harlem
Heights, it was captured by the British forces, and
remained their headquarters for 7 years. The British
troops evacuated the city November 25, 1 783. Within
ten years after the War of Independence, New York
has doubled its population. In 1807 the first steamboat

— 347 —

was put on the Hudson ; the completion of the Erie
Canal followed in 1825, and since that time the growth
of the city has been rapid. Its population in 1800 was
60,489, it was 812,869 in 1860 and in 1880, 1,206,590.
Commerce and industry have kept pace with the pop
ulation. More than half the foreign commerce of the
United States is carried on through the customs district
of which this is the port, and about two-thirds of the
duties are here collected. In 1883 the exports from
this port were of the value of $361,425,361, and the
imports $496,005,276. The manufactures of New York,
though secondary in importance to its commercial and
mercantile interests, are varied and extensive. In the
value of products, according to the census of 1880, it
was the first city in the Union, though surpassed by
Philadelphia in the value of materials used, amount of
capital invested, and number of establishments. The
whole number of manufacturing establishments in 1880
was 11,162, employing 200,000 hands, and producing
goods valued at $448,209,248.

The principal churches in the city are Trinity
Church with the Astor Memorial Reredos in the
chancel, one of the richest and costliest in the world
(the Trinity Parish is the oldest in the city); St. PauFs
Church ; Grace Church ; St. Paul's Methodist ; St.
George's Episcopal 5 the Jewish Temple Emanuel ; and
the Roman Cathedral of St. Patrick.

Of the numerous public buildings the following
deserve special mention : the U. S. Sub-Treasury, the
site of old Federal Hall where Washington delivered

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his first address as President, (the bronze statue of
Washington on the entrance was erected here in No
vember 1883) ; the U. S. Custom House, the new Post-
Office, the new Court House, the City Hall, etc.

Among the numerous educational institutions of
New York the most prominent are the University of
the City of New York, Bellevue Medical College, Col
lege of Physicians and Surgeons, Columbia College,
the oldest in the State, having been chartered in 1754 ;
the Normal College, the College of Pharmacy, Hom
oeopathic College, Cooper Institute, founded and
endowed by the late Peter Cooper, a wealthy and phi
lanthropic merchant, containing a free library, free
schools of art and telegraphy for women, a free night-
school of art for men, a free night-school of science for
both sexes, and free lectures 5 the Bible House, head'
quarters of the American Bible Society, next to the
British the largest in the world j the Mining Academy •
the Astor Library, containing 250,000 volumes ; the
City Library ; Mercantile Library ; New York Free
Circulating Library j the Library of the Historical
Society ; the Geographical Society's valuable series of
maps, specimens, etc.; the Harlem Library ; and sev
eral Colleges of Dentistry.

The National Academy of Design ; the Metropol
itan Museum of Art, containing the famous Cesnola
Collection of Cypriote Antiquities 5 the Abbott Collec
tion of Egyptian Antiquities and the Lenox Collection
of Nineveh Sculptures both in the Historical Society's
Building 5 the American Art Gallery and numerous

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private Galleries and Collections rank among the first
in the country.

The Battery, a pretty little park at the southern
extremity of the city, looking out upon the Bay, was
the site of a fort in the early years of the city, being
then the fashionable quarter. At the S. W. end is
Castle Garden, a depot for immigrants, and at the
S. end stands the handsome granite U. S. Barge-Office.
Just north of the Battery, at the foot of Broadway, is
Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, it was the
court end of the town in the times of the Dutch.

The Business Buildings of New York have no
where in the world their equal; some of them are
palatial structures. I mention only a few: The Pro
duce Exchange, Standard Oil, Stock Exchange, the
Equitable Life Insurance Company's, Western Union
Telegraph Company's, the Boreel Building, Wells,
Stewart Buildings, Union Bank Building, Manhattan
Company's, the United Bank Building, the Drexel and
Mills Buildings and thousands of others are to be found
in the business quarters of the city.

The Buildings of the leading Newspapers are also
of colossal dimensions and the following are the most
prominent :

Tribune, World, Herald, Staats-Zeitung, Sun, Times,
Puck, and Post.

The Broadway is one of the finest, if not the finest
thoroughfare in the world, and the elegant Avenues in
New York have no rivals, and are intersected by lovely
parks. Of monuments and statues, which are nun?er-

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ous in New York, those at the Union Square, of
Washington's bronze equestrian statue, the bronze
statue of Lafayette, and the bronze statue of Lincoln
are of extraordinary beauty. On Madison Square,
another pretty little park, is the bronze statue of
Admiral Farragut, the monument to General Worth, and
the bronze statue of Seward.

The Masonic Temple is a spacious and pretty
building, and there is an abundance of Opera-Houses,
Theatres and other places of amusement in the city.
The principal Clubs in New York are the Century,
Knickerbocker, Manhattan, Union, Union League, the
Lotos, Army and Navy, St. Nicholas, the University
Club, and the Athletic.

Of the many musical and singing societies of New
York City, the " Liederkranz " is the most celebrated
in the country, its President (since many years) is the
well-known Mr. Steinway, the manufacturer of the
world -famed Stein way-pianos.

There are comparatively more charitable institutions
in New York than in any other place in the world;
suffice to mention a few of the most important, viz.:
the Deaf and Dumb Institution, the buildings which
are the largest and finest of the kind in the world j the
Bloomirigdale Asylum for the Insane ; several Orphan
Asylums, among which the Hebrew Orphan Asylum is
the finest in the Union; the Bellevue Hospital, the larg
est in the city; the Foundling Asylum; and the Five
Points House of Industry and Mission; the Howard
Mission ; and on Blackwell's Island, 120 acres in ex-

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tent: the Alms-house, Female Lunatic Asylum, Blind
Asylum, Charity, Small-pox and Typhus-Fever Hospi
tals; also the Hospital for Incurables, and Convales
cent Hospital; on Ward's Island: the Lunatic Asylum
for Males, the Emigrant Hospital, and the Inebriate
Asylum; and on Randall's Island: the Idiot Asylum,
the House of Refuge, the Infant Hospital, Nurseries
and other charities provided by the city for destitute
children. Besides these, there are numerous Homes
and other Institutions for Indigents of both sexes in the
city.

The pride of New York is the Central Park. It is
one of the finest parks in the world, embracing 843
acres and in it are the two large Croton Reservoirs. The
Mall in the Park is the principal promenade; it is a
magnificent esplanade and at various points are fine
life-size bronze statues of Shakespeare, Scott, Morse,
Goethe, Halleck, Daniel Webster, and among the
bronze busts, the bust of Humboldt. The Zoological
Gardens, or Menagerie, in the Park contains interesting
collections of animals, birds, and reptiles, etc., and
opposite the Metropolitan Museum of Art is the Egyp
tian Obelisk (the Needle of Cleopatra), one of the most
ancient of the world's monuments. Originally hewn
and inscribed by Thothmes III., one of the sides is
also inscribed with the victory of Rameses or Ramses
II. (a contemporary of Moses), who lived three centuries
afterward. It was presented to the City of New York
by the late Khedive, and brought to this country at the
expense of the late W. H. Vanderbilt. Adjoining the

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Park is the American Museum of Natural History, con
taining Indian antiquities, minerals, shells, and stuffed
and mounted specimens of birds, fishes, quadrupeds,
insects, etc.

Riverside Park, within the city limits, is the bury-
ing-place of General Grant.

The great East River or Brooklyn Bridge, is the
largest suspension-bridge in the world and is 5,989 ft.
long. Its width is 85 ft., which includes a promenade
for foot-passengers, 2 railroad-tracks on which run
steam passenger-cars, and two roadways for vehicles.
This stupendous triumph of engineering was planned by
Colonel John A. Roebling and completed under the
charge of his son, Washington Roebling. It was
thirteen years constructing, and cost about $15,000,-
000.

The elevated Rail Roads in New York, four distinct
lines, running almost parallel and traversing the city,
are among the wonders of the city.

The new Aqueduct in course of erection is one of
the most gigantic structures of its kind. In High
Bridge, the Croton Aqueduct is carried across Harlem
River in a length of 1,450 ft. This noble structure is
well worth seeing.

Of the City Prisons, the Tombs, a massive, granite,
sombre looking building in the Egyptian style, and of
a shape resembling ancient Egyptian tombs, is un
doubtedly a unique.

The Penitentiary and Workhouse are on BlackwelPs
Island.

- 353 „,,

• •,

New York is one of the greatest Rail Road Cen
ters in the world and the Grand Central Depot one of
the finest and largest in the United States.

Staten Island, the largest island in the harbor, has
an area of 58 J square miles 5 it is separated from New
Jersey by Staten Island Sound and the Kill Van Kull,
and from Long Island by the Narrows. From the
heights there are broad views over harbor and ocean.
New Brighton is the largest village on the island.

The most popular of all the resorts near New
York is Coney Island, just outside the entrance of
New York Bay, and consists of a very narrow island,
4J miles long, with a gently sloping beach, affording
unsurpassed facilities for sea-bathing. It is a part of
the town of Gravesend and is separated from the
mainland by Gravesend Bay and Coney Island Creeks
on the north, and has the broad Atlantic for its south
ern boundary. The island is divided into 4 parts
known as Coney Island Point, or Norton's at the
west end, West Brighton Beach, and Manhattan Beach
at the east end. From the Observatory in Coney Is
land an extensive view is obtained. The drives are
superb, especially on the Ocean Parkway.

Rockaway Beach and Long Beach are likewise
excellent sea-bathing resorts, and the colossal tubular
Iron Pier in Rockaway Beach is well worth seeing.

The other great summer resort in the vicinity oi
New York is Long Branch, on the Jersey shore of the
Atlantic, where an extensive beach affords excellent
facilities for bathing.

23

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The Beach Drive on which the superb villas of the
Wealthy are situated is an elegant road. The place is
very attractive and is the Rendez-vous of the better
situated class.

Opposite New York, just across the river, at the
W. end of Long Island, lies the third largest city in the
United States, Brooklyn. On the heights back of the
city the battle of Long Island was fought, on August
26, 1776, and the Americans defeated with a loss of
2,000 out of 5,000 men.

In 1800, the population of Brooklyn was 3,298,
and in 1880, 566,689.

Brooklyn was settled in 1 625, near Wallabout Bay,
by a band of Walloons.

The city is exceedingly pretty, most of the streets
aborned with shade-trees.

Its public buildings and private residences are of
great beauty and the commerce large. The City Hall,
County Court House, Municipal Building, and Post
Office are spacious and elegant structures. The Long
Island Historical Society contains a valuable library
and many curious relics. The Academy of Design,
and the Academy of Music are highly ornated build
ings. The Long Island College Hospital, the Mer
cantile Library, with 60,000 volumes ; and several of
the theatres are noteworthy. Of the many churches,
the following deserve special mention : the beautiful
Church of the Holy Trinity (Episcopal), Plymouth
Church (formerly the church of the late Henry Ward
Beecher) ; the Tabernacle (of the famous orator Rev.

— 355 —

Talmadge), the largest Protestant church in America 5
the Congregational Church of the Pilgrims (R. S.
Storrs, Pastor); and the Presbyterian Church (Dr.Cuyler).

The County Jail and the Penitentiary are castella
ted, immense stone piles.

The Atlantic Dock has a basin which covers an area
of 42 J acres and is surrounded by piers of solid gran
ite, on which are spacious ware-houses. Prospect
Park is one of the most beautiful in America. It con
tains 550 acres, lies on an elevated ridge, and com
mands magnificent views of the two cities, of the inner
and outer harbor, Long Island, the Jersey shore, and
the Atlantic. In the center is a fine fountain and a
bronze statue of President Lincoln. It is beautifully
shaded, has splendid drives, and was the site of exten
sive fortifications during the Revolutionary War.

The U. S. Navy Yard is the chief naval station
of the Republic and contains 45 acres.

The trophies and relics preserved here are of great
interest.

Greenwood Cemetery is the most beautiful in the
world. It contains upward of 500 acres tastefully laid
out. The grounds are traversed by 19 miles of car
riage-roads and 17 miles of footpaths and there are
many beautiful monuments.

The "Empire or Excelsior State," the State of
New York is one of the 13 original States; named in
honor of the Duke of York to whom the patent was
granted; first settled by the Dutch, on Manhattan
Island, 1614.

— 356 —

Area, 49,170 square miles; extreme length, east
and west, 412 miles; extreme breadth, 311 miles;
two-thirds of boundaries formed by navigable rivers;
total water frontage, 880 miles.

Temperature at Albany: winter, 22° to 36°; sum
mer, 67° to 73°. Rainfall at Buffalo, 34 inches, and
at Perm Yan, 28 inches.

First railroad, from Albany to Schenectady, 1831;
present railroad mileage, 7,349 ; artificial water-ways,
907 miles.

Number of farms, 241,058; average value per acre,
cleared land, $58.48; woodland, $40.88. Ranks first
in value of manufactures, soap, printing and publish
ing, hops, hay, potatoes, buckwheat and milk cows;
second in salt, silk goods, malt and distiUed liquors,
miles railway and barley.

Population, 5,082,871, incl. 65,104 Colored, 909
Chinese and 819 Indians.

Number of colleges, 28 ; school population 1,681,-
101 ; school age, 5-21.

The United States, a Republic occupying the cen
tral portion of North America, together with Alaska,
in the extreme northwest, contain 38 States and 10
Territories.

Area land surface, 3,547,000 square miles; great
est length, east and west, about 2,800 miles; average
breadth, about 1,200 miles; British American bound
ary; 3,540 miles; Mexican, 1,550; coast line, exclu-

— 357 —

sivc of land indentations, 5,715 miles; lake shore line,
3,450.

New York ranks first in population; Pennsylvania,
second; Ohio, third; Illinois, fourth.

New York City, metropolis of the Republic ; Phila
delphia ranks second ; Brooklyn, third ; Chicago,
fourth. Washington, capital.

Railway mileage: 1830, 23, having increased to
126,718, January 1886. Increase, 1885, 3,214.

According to Statistics for year ending June 30,
1884, the total value of dutiable merchandise imported,
was $457,813,509, and of imported merchandise free
from duty, $209,884,184. The exports of merchandise
for the same year amounted to $740,513,609.

The total value of products of industry, according
to census, 1883-4, $10,000,000,000; average annual
coal production, 77,908,874 tons ; average annual ex
ports, domestic merchandise, $794,060,103; average
annual value imports, domestic merchandise, $635,-
227,511 ; average annual value exports of cotton,
$12,322,428; and average annual value imports, cotton
manufactures, $32,285,660.

Leaving this beautiful country in which I have
stayed longer than in any other during my eight years
travels, and thanking all my friends in the City of
New York for the many favors bestowed upon me
during my repeated long sojourns, I beg leave to bid
Good-bye ! Au revoir !

YB 36745