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^~^se'.s/js-(p>)
Harvard College
Library
FROM THE BEQUEn' OF
FRANCIS BROWN HAYES
Qui of il]9
OF LEIINGTOH, MAtUCHUtFm
*J&!^
At 4 ,
\^
TllAVELS
IN
EUROPEAN TURKEY,^
THROUGH BOSNIA, SERVIA, BULGARIA, MACEDONIA,
TUBAC^ ALBANIA, AND EPIRUS ; WITH A VISIT TO
GREECE AND THE IONIAN ISLE&
BY EDMUND^PENCEB, AsQ.
or " nAtiu ■■ ciiCAt>u,~ "ninu ix tai anmu circuv
IN TWO VOLUME&
VOL. U.
X 2"/
LONDON:
COLBUHN AND CO, PUBLISIIERf^
13. GREAT MARLBOKOUGII STRBBT.
I8SL
•;^
\
TRAVELS
iw
EUROPEAN TURKEY,
IN 1850.
VOL- 11.
\
f HARVARD \
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
CONTENTS
THE SECOND VOIiUMK.
CHAPTER I.
ItiJe across tlie mountains of Upprr Albania — Arriral at Ipeic
' — Interesting old chnrch of tlie Krnli of Scrvia — lode-
pendent tribes of Upper Albania — Perilous troTclling — Ar-
rival at Priiren — Description of tlie town and its inhabitant!
—Roman roods — Turkish guard-houses — Arriral in Mace-
donia— Kalkandel — Bivouac — Characteristics of the ^raidji —
Formidable defile — Ancient Turkish cemetery — Arrival at
Uskioub — Sketch of the Seraskier, Omer Pacha — Ancient
bridge over the Vordnr — Singular paved road of the lifact^o-
nian kings — Climate and productions of Macedonia . 1
CHAPTER It "^
Drear; aspect of the conntrf — Arrival at Piilip — luterefting
rniaa of a cattle belong^ to the ancaeiit Krali of Serria —
Sngnlar wooden bridge — Uonotun traTelKng in Macedmk
VOL. IL (
yi CCXNTBHTS.
— l^ibBdU i^ev— BifOiiae«— BoaMmlie deffle— -Istemliiig
inlbf— The late fAdHott of dit Amonto— l^eCmifii of Qhmt
BiduH-KTooM iridi die AnKNitf— TUa of Bittc^— Bto-
diieliQiit--VSIagw--IiAobitaBtt-4N»art^^
EmopoMi Tnkqf— InertacM of dit TuUdi Oiiwiininii
JjwribteofditTUerofBoinM&H-OnipofdMlfiaDn tad
dM AmoQtt— Arrivd «t Bitla|^— Vkuik tocie^— HaB
Eftndi— His Tomande hittoiy — Spaddi Jews-— EiqjBdi VMf-
AaikBae Mmtiylia B^— Qnad entertdmneiil— Skolch of
Kttoi^ . . ., • • S4
CHAPTER m. .
OqMurtm from BifetogjBa— M oantdii trardKiig—- Sngdar Un
Tmliaiied grafa aUwca— Aycct of die coantry^-InTialiitanta
— Kfouae— Nmnanioa canmui — VIA from dia BKmntdiiacia
—Lake ofFpeata M^gnifcynt aeanerjf— Anhil at Ocrida ■
HoapitaMe feecption from lur* Belyp— 'Dcacfipoon of Oonda
and its romantie Uke — Primitife boats — Tmt to die Honaa- *
tery of Schir Naoon — The monks — A model monastery — A
visit to All, the GoTemor of Ocrida — The magic wand — A
fishing party with Ali — Dr. Schiick — ^Turkish pio-nic. 64
CHAPTER IV.
Imperial fisheries of the Saltan — Defile of the Drin — Ascent of
theMiriditi Mountains — Hospitality of the inhabitants — Aspect
of the country — ^Arrival at the Djeta of a l^liriditi chieftain —
Sketch of Hamsa« the chief— His singular history — Austrian
and Italian missionaries — Fanaticism of the Miriditi — Stefa,
my kiraidji — Some account of him — ^The Tersatility of his
religbus opinions — ^The pass of Keupris — ^Dangerous travel-
ling — ^Rencontre with a party of Albanian rebels — ^Andent
bridge over the Scoumbi — Arrival at Eibassan — Description
CONTEMTS. Vn
of the town wad ita inliabiUata — ^The Albaniaii tribei — ^Tbdr
political tmdencKs — Some Mcount of the indqteiKleiit tribei
of the Mtruliti — Depopnlatioa of Albwiii . 8t
CHAPTER V.
Origin of 'tbc Albviiaiie— Thdr warlike tendendet — Creed,
manners and cnstomi of the Albaniana — Feodol institutions
— Hereditar; chienaini — Auttrian politics in Albania — Sketd
of Mahmond BaraUia — Contemporarj history of Albanin —
iDsurrccttonarj moTcmenta of the Mnsiulnutn-AnMuuaiu—
Their wart with the TarVa — Sketch of the Grand Vixkr,
Melimet Beachid Paclia— Crvcl policy of (he Turkish Oorem-
ment in Albania — Tlorrible slaughter of the Albanian chief-
tains at Bittoglia — Tlic conscription — Its demoralisii^ effects
— Great discontent among the people — Difileal^ of goroiung
Albama ...... lOS
CEIAPTER VL
An ori^nal — ^The Albatuan language — Commercial capaUEtie*
of the countrj — Its navigable rivers and lakes — Snpineneas
of the Turkish Government — Defects as a raUng power-
Sketches of the conntry — Dorano — Croia — ^The Dookadjiid
— Oros — Alessio — Scutari — Its lake and rivers— SSngnlar
abandance of fish — The Bocca di Csttaro — Its description as
a naval station — How it fell into the power of Austria —
Blockade of the coast of Albania bjr the Turkish Govenunoit
— EmbarrsBsraents of a traveller — ^Aaatic cholera . 132
CHAPTER vn.
Jonmey to Berat — Turkish ksrsonl — Fortunate rencontre—
Crosrii:^ the monntuns — Bivouac among the Znsan— TTmw
» 3
rm cmrmms
iMwpiliB^— Bope iliduiA— Denlate ttpcet of dit coiiiiIit^—
F«inily---»Agricdfaii»-— Prt)dttctiopa Bxpotti cad importo^
Awtiiui oomntfee— Eii|^ Contab— Ptda of Bcrat— Towa
mad fefftriM Cirimia B^» the (kmnm^rfnp&HI&am to
icpd an attad^ of the wMa Alanniiy leporta of dia Alba-
niaa iiuuiifatiua Departna ftom Bayat Battla batwaaa tha
Mttam and Oia iaioigeata— Defeat of tbm Wiam— Fortaaala
. . . . . . 148'
r .
CHAPTER Vm.
_ ■ — - ....
BaCam ta Bani^— EmbamanDcata of a trafcOar— Joamaj ftaai
Bawtla Jaaniaar">'Pdfciw4iaTf1lara Kntf Ji coaiiar^Taiidah
ldiaU|&--])eaenpdoa of dia ecmaliy— Ifdanci^
Alhariaa iBaBfiaedaii*"ChMrillaa"-Cliaractefiade of tha bmnbi-
taiBaanH-Defikof tha Giaoka-^Tawa of. KHaoaia— Baeaaip*
naai ofgqwiea Arrival at Pkemetti— Bdaa of aa oU Chiia-
tiandiarcb — Miracolous .well — Legend' attached to it — Mag-
nificent scenery — ^An Albanian Skela — ^Ancient bridge — Moun-
taineers— ^Villages — Rmns — Dangerous effects of the bite of
a snake — How to prcTent them — Escape from drowning —
BiTonac « • . • . .162
CHAPTER IX.
Republic of the mountaineers of Sagori — ^Their civil and reli-
gious institutions — Manners and customs — Eljsian fields —
Locusts — ^Arriral at Jannina — Description of the town — Its
andent and contemporary history — The Lake of Acherusia and
its island — ^Inhabitants of Jannina — ^Their sodability — Visit to
<.the ruins at Gastritza — Supposed to be those of the temple
I
. i
t
I ■ ;
i
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'
/
CONTENTS. IX
and town of Dodona — ^EpiruSy iU andcnt and modem histotj
— Description of the coontiy rolcanoea — Earthquakes 1 77
CHAPTER X.
Journey from Jannina to Arta — Rule of All Paeha — The
j mountains of £pinu — Subterranean riyers — ^The plain of Arta
I — Marshes — Arrival at Arta— Sketches of the town and its
i neighbourhood— Fertility of the soil — Prodoctions — Remark-
able ruins — Visit to the church of the Panagia — Singular
\ antique image of the Virgin — Superstition — Climate of Epims
1 — Its mountains — Rivers — Inhabitants — Andent bridge orer
i* the Arethon — ^^lonastcries, with their orchards of oranges and
lemons — Journey over the Marsh of Arta — Arrival at Salagora
■; — Unexpected friends — ^Voyage to Prevesa — Hospitality of
« the English Consul — Sketches of Ali Pacha and the French-*
j Visit to the ruins of Nicopolis • • • 1 95
CHAPTER XL
Voyage from Prevesa to the Ionian Isles — Santa Maura-*
j Miseries of the Quarantine — ^The Author attacked by fever-
Hospitality and kindness of the English officers ~ Voyage to
Corfu — Improved appearance of the town — Sketches of the
island — Its ancient and contemporary history — Observations
on the state of the Ionian Isles — Factions spirit of the
inhabitants— Dreams of Young Greece — Prejudices of race—
? Character of the people — The representative system of
1 government — How appreciated by the loniaus— Voyage to
Zante — Lord Byron and Mr. Barff — Production of Zante—
Currants — How prepared for exportation— Observations on
1 the commerce of the Ionian Isles — Concluding remarks 211
CHAPTER XIII.
Siemmlxwt tojages to Athens— Advantages of steam nayigatioa
— -Austrian steamers — Ptasengers — Missdkmghi — Scenery of
the Galf of Lepanto — ^Vostitxa— Greek soldiers — Insalubrity
of parts of Greece — Canses — ArriTal at Lntrachi — Corinth —
View from the Acropolis — Passage across the Isthmus of
Corinth — Calamachi — The Pirsens — Greek tonters — The
tnmbles of a traveller — Passports and custom-house officers
— Increasing prosperity of the Piraeus — Sketch of the inha-
bitants— Enrirons • , • « « • 249
CHAPTER xnr.
First impresrion of Athens — Cbssicd recolkctiotts — General
obaenrations on the nuns of Audent Greece — The Elg^
CONTENTS. \ '
s
l£
\
I
CHAPTER XII. V'
Voyage from Zante to Patras — Beautiful scenery — ^Ile town of
Pktras — Commercial position— Trade with England — £3cports
and imports — Sketches of the modem Greeks — Disturbed
state of the country — Brigands — Administradon of King Otho
— Obsenrations on the political and social state of Greece —
Intrigues of the diplomatic agents in Greece — ^Electioneering
in Greece — Nord method of obtaining a ministerial majority
— Death of M. Coletti— French ReroluUon, and fall of the
triamvirate in Greece — Concluding remarks • 231
CONTENTS. XI
^larblcs — ^The Areopagus — St. Paul and the Athcniana — ^The
prison of Socrates— The mfluence of Athenian drilixation on
prosperity •••••• 263
CHAPTER XV.
Modern Athens— Inhabitants— The brigands of Mount Hymetes
— ^Thcir capture of an Italian Duchess — Character of the
modem Greeks — ^Their superstitions — Similar to those of the
Ancient Greeks— The Oriental Church— General vieir of iti
doctrines and ceremonies — Its influences on the character of
the people — ^Venality of the Greek clergy — Popular aaper-
stitions—Comparison between the Oriental and the Latin
Church — Mr. and Mrs. Hill, American missionaries — ^Their
religious system of education— The diplomatic corps at Atheui
—Modem Greece contrasted with the Principality of Serria—
Politics and religion — Concluding observations. • 274
CHAPl^R XVI.
French steamer — Passengers— A hint to manufacturers — Smyrna
•—Inhabitants — Beauty of the women — Increasing prosperity
of the town — Observations on the English Consular system in
the Levant — Description of the town — Spanish Jews of Smyrna
—Their hospitality — Gratitude of a Spanish Jew — ^Visit to
Ephesus — Travelling in Asia A&nor — Caravan — Turkoman
Tatars — Ai Soluk — Bivouac — Rmns of Ephesus— DescriptioDS
of the country — Characteristics of the inhabitants — Baids and
story-tellers— A scene at the han • « • 293
\
XU CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Route to Adrianople — ^Flaia of Thrace — ^Tamoli— Descriptioa
of Adrianople — Great mosqne — Obserrations upon Islamism
— Its tendendes — Insalnbritj of Adrianople — Sketch of the
Great Fair at Usnndji — Notices on the fairs of Earopean
Turkey — ^Arrival at PhilippopoU — Its inhabitants — Commerce
— Armenian nationality — ^Their characteristics — The Paoli-
lustSy a religions sect at Philippopoli. • . 339
CHAPTER XIX.
Geopaphical position of Thrace and ^lacedonia — Conndered
with respect to their military importance — Sketches of the
country and its inhabitants — ^Tatar*Bazardjik — ^Turkish mis-
nde — Characteristics of the Osmanfi — Social habits of the
people — Superstitions — View of the Balkan — ^Ascent of the
Balkan — General aspect of the country — Inhabitants — In*
i
i y
1 I
Voyage from Smyrna to the Dardanelles — ^Arriral at GallipoC-^ i ^
Ei^sh Yioe-Consul — Kinudji traTellmg — Dreary aspect of
the country between Gkllipoli and Keschan — the Maritra
Turkish recruits — Ipsala— Dangerous travelling — Notices of
the country and its inhabitants — Fertility and productions of
Thrace — Agriculture — Implements of husbandry — ^Villages —
Troubles of a trareller — Greek scamp — ^Village law-suit — Ver*
dad of the Tillage Solomon — Purchase of a horse — Charac-
teristic scenes — Arrival at Dimotika — Description of the town
and its Osmanli inhabitants — Tradition of the Bulgarian
bards. . • • .319
I
, durtfy— Torreiita of the Balkan— Tbe Great Iskrr— Difficohy
of fording it — Sagmdtj and affection of the hone — Anecdote
. of the bona ..... 357
CHAPTER XX.
Arriral at Sophia— Iti ancient imd modem lustorjr — SIteteh of
the Bulgarian ttationtlity — Pnblic hnildinga at Sophis — Ho
cholera and the plague — ^Tnrkish fatalism and iadolene»—
Journey through the mountaina to T«mov» — Some acconnt of
the capital of the andent Krals of Dnlgaria— Sketch of the
Dnlgarian reroluticHi of 1838-40. . . . 371
CHAPTER XXI.
Political state of European Turkey— Admintitra^on — Canae*
that led to the Dalgarian insurrection of 1850 — Rapadty at
Zia Pach& of Widdin — Turkish offidala and Greek bishops—
The Serrians and Bulgarians contrasted — Alliance between
the Turkish Goremment and the dignitief of the Oriental
Church — Effects of spiritual despotism — Discontent of the
Bayahs in Eoropcan Turkey — How increased by the Hun-
garian and Polish refugees— Probable destiny of the rale of
the Turks in these provincet— Huts and obserratioos. 384
CHAPTER XXn,
Journey to SdionmU — Fbrtress of Sehonmla — Conndered Si
a military pontion — The town and its inhabitants — Boate
lo Varna — Description of tbe f >rtified town of Bolgaria, on
m commnn.
die Dtnttbe ml Hm Bhck Bm-^Tke poitfeal mi
Bcvml importMieo of UnWarf^— >Tlia Haiir^ii gad its dtflw
fioritlon till Aitim prowwdt of tho Bttkuioa ]iitiQiiiBlv<— •
DumOw • • • • • 39f
CHAPTER XXUL
Amnl h Volla<Ma— Ofcwirgsfo Juiport Inqidritiwi llmiiiB
poHcc QwinntiiM AnifJ oft 8eiiiBii«-Bdgnide— Ei^Bili
Contol— Amteiui cqpioiiage— -A dtufprecalili poridcn— *
Skeldiet of Bvaaguj and Ao Sksmekm in 18M— Tholi^
Hnnguiui war— Orafet tbal kd to it— Count arfchcnjfi tad
IrfNno Kosmlli'— P!rodanuitioB of tlio HungniMi oonttitntkNi
— IXieontont of dio 9afonians» Wanadnano and BaTcma
Hoir aetod npon hj flie Cahiaet of l^ennar— Tho Ban Jdln-
diidi, and BigacUdi, Mmalo of Oio Son^aaa— Civil war—
HoniUe acwMi Tho Anatiian Cooaol aft Bclgradfl^ and tlio
brigands of European Tnrkey — ^Louis Kossuth's appeal to
anns — Declaration of the independence of Hnngaiy — Total
defeat of the Imperialists and their allies — Russian inter*
Tcntion — Capitulation of Oorgej — ^Fall of Hungary. 410
CHAPTER XXIV.
Reflections on the policy of Austria with regard to Hungary-
Alliance between Austria and Russia — Population of the
Austrian empire — How divided into nationalities — ^Diyision of
Hungary — Exdtement and discontent in Hungary, Croatia,
SlaTonia, and Serria — Reactionary feeling of the Slaronians
towards the Magyars— Hatred of Austrian rule — Results of
the contest in Hungary — ^What may be the future destiny of
Hungary and the SlaTonian proTinces of the Lower Danube —
CONTENTS.
ObserraUona on the political state of Hnngarf and tbo
Austrian empire — General riew of the present pontkm of
Russia, Austria, Gennanj and Turkey • • 425
CHAPTER XXV.
Concluding Observations
446
<
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I •
I'll ^^^'»
TRAVELS
iir
EUROPEAN TURKEY
CHAPTER I.
Ride across the mountams of Upper Albania — Arrival at Ipek
— Interesting old church of the Krals of Senria — Inde-
pendent tribes of Upper Albania — Perilous travelling-^
Arrival at Prizren — Description of the town and its inha-
bitants— Roman roads — ^Turkish guard-houses — Arrival in
Macedonia — Kalkandel — Bivouac — Characteristics of the
Kiraidji — Formidable defile — Ancient Turkish cemetery —
Arrival at Uskioub — Sketch of the Seraskier^ Omer Pachm
— Ancient bridge over the Vardar — Singular paved road
of the Macedonian kings — Climate and productions of
Macedonia.
On leaving the little alpine town of Gousnee, we
followed the tortuous windings of a dried-up torrent,
over which rose Mount Koutsch, a perfect wall of
rock, here forming the natural boundary between the
independent mountaineers of Tchemegora and the
VOL. 11. B
*■ »4
% TBATBU IK BimOFBAll TOmKSY.
Amouts of Vppet AlUnm. About half an hoards
ni^ dter tmBtfpaagtij^ fk^G^ dieioda^ a most
interestiog^ and roaiiiitiiPvfQmo bunt iqpon die visv*
Tbofe mn the pimiaiM hog^ of Mount B[0ii6di
widi those of its moie ahqpendoiis nag^ibour, Mount
Komniy tiie monaidi of die mountaans m Emopean
Tmk^, &played in all dieir gran^knr, die bi^^
beams of die mondng sun gOcEng diw HWm^
peaks^ and Eghdng vsp die wwMWfs of etanal ioe diat
qparlded in die crevioes ; wbik^ to impart snimatimi
to our pietun^ we bad an encampment of die
Ani0ut% dior wUte tents and Uaai^ fires partially
shaded by jutdng crags and a few fiHcst-trees; and
as the eye wandered iq» die steqi^ rody ndes of
Mount Kotttsdi, it rested on an encampment of dior
hereditary enemies, the Routschi, the most fierce and
wariike of all the confederated tribes of Tchemegora.
There they lay, or busied themselves around their
blazing fires, cooking thdr morning meal regard-
less of danger, although they were nearly within
reach of the long guns of their enemy ; and pro-
bably before the day was over hostilities would com-
mence.
After partaking of a cup of coffee, and smoking
the tchibouque with the Boulouk-bachi of the Amouts,
we descended to the mountain lake of Flava, where
we enjoyed a pleasant ride along its romaqtic banks
to the gloomy defile of the Stretta-Gora, which
separates Mount Haila firom Mount Peklen; here
4 TIATSU IN BUBOFSAM TUUUnr.
fimndtiie Fm^ to be an old, infirm man, reoentfy
«leeted by tiie Arnoat cbieftauia, in token of their
aobousaion to tiie Porte. Indeed, tiie peculiar clia*
racter of tiie eurroondii^ coontiy, eo eaqr of defimoo^
and the exanqik of Am neigbboiin^ tiie indqpendent
tribea of Tdiemegora, and thoee of Upper Albania,
enooorage tiie inhabitanta of thia podiafik to fre-
qoenl revolt^ espedaDy agdnst tiie oonaoription
and tiie imperial tax. Eadi tribe and oommnne
ia governed by ita own diie( deetodby the people;
and aooor£i^ to their nnmerical 8trei^;Ui, and
die pootion tiiey occupy in ihe mountuna^ obqf
or oppoae tfie auAoritiea. The majmrity of the
inhabitanta of Ipek, and of die pachaEk in general,
are Sen^ Rayaha; a hrave^ determined people^
who wodd long since have allied themadvea to
their compatriots in race and creed, the moun.
taineers of Tchemegora, were they not held in sub-
mission by their Mahometan lords, the warlike
Arnouts, who reside among thenL
While my friends were discussing public affairs
with the Pacha, I took the opportunity of visiting a
most interesting church and monastery, dedicated to
the memory of the Ascension, a short distance from
Ipek. The church is built entirely of red and white
marble ; and, according to tradition, owes its preser-
vation to an oath made by one of the early Sultans
to his favourite wife, a Servian Princess, whose ances-
tor is interred here, Ouroch III., Krai of Servia.
i
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»
UPPER ALBANIA. 5
In this instance, at least, the descendants of the
Sultan have not violated the decree of their prede-
cessor, for the church is kept in tolerable repair, and
held in high estimation by the inhabitants, both
Christian and Mahometan. My ciceroni, one of
the Kaloyars of the monastery, informed me there
were several other Christian churches hidden in the
fastnesses of the adjoining mountains, under the
protection of the Ouskoks, of which the Osmanli
knew not even the existence. This assertion would
appear incredible, did we not know that in this
singular country, there are certain districts in the
mountains into which the Turks have never dared to
penetrate.
Between Ipek and Prizren we skirted a part
of the chain of mountains inhabited by the Miriditi
and the Malasori. The only entrance into the
inaccessible retreat of these independent moun-
taineers of Upper Albania, which, like Tchemcgora,
is defended by nature, is by following the course
of the Drin through a frightfiil gorge ; but this
would be most difficult and dangerous to a hostile
army, and the attempt to subdue these valiant
mountaineers has alreadv cost the OsmanU thousands
of their bravest warriors. In addition to these
warlike tribes, there is another, called the Klementi,
located on the banks of the Zem and the mountain
district adjoining the Tchemegori, who, like their
neighbours, the Miriditi and the Malasori, conform
6 Tft4TSU IN KOBCHnUM mMXt.
to tiie Litin ritiial, and pqf no tax cr tribute to
die Ottonuun Bnrte. On the fill of SoudM)^
die hoo of tiie C3ui8tiui% a dnef of dus povvarM
tribo hftTii^ fled to Roine^ one of hie deeewidenta
"mm ckimtod to die Ptondfical dbair «e CSement XL
eo wdl known ae a protoetor of die Fhie Art% and
wlw boilt die TiDa Albam. The Kkmend are now
nded hj 9^ bishap^ who rendee at Liba, die andeut
Aidee»
The MUaaori date dieir mA^fwOmm ftom die
reign of Anumdi DU who having bj nmne of their
ankitanee gained an inqportant Victoiy over LaaBar,
the Knd of.Serm, granted tibem a peqpetoal
eanmpdon from every qwdee of tax or tribole. In
praoeei of dme^ the IMdah rokrayor periiqie their
dqmliesy the Ftohas, cEsregarding the immunities
firom taxation accorded by Amurath, attempted to
enforce the harritch. This led to the disastrous
insurrection of 1740, when thousands of those
unhappy mountaineers, with thdr neighbours, the
Kkmenti, were obliged to seek a refuge in Hungary,
where thdr descendants are still to be found, occu-
pying several populous villages on the banks of
the Save, near Mitrovitza, speaking their language,
and foUowing thdr peculiar customs and manners,
as if the event had only occurred a few years
nnoe.
Whether the Turkish Government in our day
has become more just in its administration, or that
8 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
leading into the interior of the mountains, till we
came to the village of Benitchi, inhabited by the
Malasori tribes, where VeU Bey held a consultation
with several of their most influential chieftains.
On leaving the viQage for Prizren, we traversed
some of the wildest districts in Upper Albania, a
succession of frightful precipices and jutting rocks,
with scarcdy sufficient space for a chamois to thread
his way in security. Now we had to toil up the
bed of a dried-up torrent, with its round slippeiy
stones; then to force our way through a thorny
coppice, which rent our garments to tatters, and
infficted not a few enduring remembrances on our
persons, and as if this were not sufficient torment,
we were pursued by a host of hornets, gorging
themselves at our expense and that of our poor
worn-out horses.
At length we entered a dreary forest. In some
places it had been partially biuncd, and the black-
ened trunks of trees, partly shaded by young shoots
from the panut stem, presented a melancholy aspect;
especially when we were told that this forest had
been so often and so recently the scene of strife
and bloodshed. In exposed situations we frequently
saw gigantic trees snapped asunder, here lying
prostrate, and there looking like a forest of reeds,
bowed to the earth by some overwhelming force,
for so great is the violence of the wind occasionally
in these Alpine districts of Upper Albania, that
i:
l' i
■ -A
UPPER ALBANIA. 9
nothing can withstand its fury. In our present
position wc should gladly have welcomed even a
tornado that would have relieved us from our insect
foes I buty alas ! the tur was perfectly still, while
the vertical sun, like a ball of fire» streamed down
upon the calcareous barren rock that towered above
us, till the heat became almost insupportable.
Weary and exhausted, dragging our jaded horses,
we slowly toiled onwards, when happily, towards
evening, we behdd a vision that promised to relieve
us from our sufferings — ^we caught a glimpse of the
Maritzka, as it wound its way like a silver thread
through a delightful valley of the same name ; and
shortly afterwards we beheld Prizren, with its white
castle, pretty minarets and swelling domes, altogether
forming a picture never to be forgotten by a tired
traveller. This welcome prospect, like the beacon to
the wave-tossed mariner, drew from my companions
a loud and tumultuous burst of joy ; and as every
step we made in advance brought us nearer to the
long wished for haven, our horses seemed also to
have discovered that food and rest were at hand, for
they hastened to leave behind a desert without suf-
ficient herbage to reUeve their wants, or a rivulet to
slake their thirst
Prizren, the seat of a Pacha, contains about ten or
twelve thousand inhabitants, and several fine mosques;
the population is nearly equally divided into Amouts
and Servian Rayahs of the Greek Church ; in addition
10 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
to these, there are Jews, Armenians and Greek mer-
chants located here, who may number nearly three
hundred. The Christians, of whatever denomination,
redde in separate quarters of the town. The Amouts,
as didr name implies, are Albaman-Mussulmans ;
sevo^l of these, holding certain fie& in the interior
of the country, are said to be wealthy ; and if we
may judge from the costly wares in the bazaar, the
wdl-supplied markets, the quantity of meat exposed
for sale and the nxmiber of cook-shops and coffee-
houses, always filled with well-dressed men, the
inhabitants are amply supplied with the means of
procuring not only the necessaries, but the luxuries
of life.
The Amouts, like the Rayahs, have also their
peculiar locality in the town. Here we find the best
traiteurs and coffee-houses; and as armourers, the
Amouts of Prizren are cdebrated all over European
Turkey, particularly in the manufacture of guns and
pistols.
Among the public buildings of Prizren, the casde,
pinnadcd on a rock, and commanding the town, is at
once a picturesque and imposing edifice; it was
originally constmcted by the Romans, and subse-
quently repwed and converted into a royal residence
by the Krals of Servia; the Turks have added
barracks for the Nizam, and two sm«all mosques.
The andcnt cathedral Sveta Petka, founded by
Nomama, Krai of Servia, so well known in the
1
»1
V
UPPER ALBANIA. 11
history of Servia for his munificent donations to the
Church, is a large showy building, one of the
few churches that has escaped the vandalism of tihe
Turks, and proves the wealth and civilization of the
Servian nation, before it had the misfortune to fall
under the dominion of the OsmanU; they found
populous towns, with their fortresses, castles and
forts for the defence of the coimtry, churdies fcH*
public devotion, bridges over rivers for the transit of
merchandize, bazaars and bans for the reception of
the trader and his goods, all these have been de-
stroyed, or left to moulder and decay. The Servian
Cathedral would probably have shared the same fitte^
had not the conqueror, Amurath IL, thought proper to
convert it, as he did several others, into a mosque :
the form is that of a Greek cross ; and as is usually
the case in Servian edifices, we see alternately layers
of stone and red bricks; it is presumed, firom a
bas-relief of ancient Greek sculpture that still adorns
the principal entrance, that the builcUng itself was
erected on the ruins of a Pagan temple.
Prizren, the indent Priscopera, is supposed to
have been founded by PhiUp of Macedonia ; it after-
wards became one of the principal stations of the
Romans. In the defile of the Dibris, leading hence
into the Miriditi mountains, we can still trace the
remains of a paved road, and another conducting to
Bosnia through Novi-bazar, but so covered with
herbage, and in great part destroyed by the moun-
\
12 TR.VVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
taineers in their wars with the Turks, as to be only
here and there visible. Perhaps the most interesting
remains of the enterprize of the Romans in these
provinces, is the paved road carried over Mount
Koutsch in Tchemcgora, at a height of six thousand
fe^ of which we found traces near Gousnee, and
proves the importance the Romans attached to the
possesion of these mountain districts. The Mount
Koutsch road has been completely destroyed by the
indefatigable mountmneers of Tchem^ora, with the
view of pre\*enting a visit from their old enemies, the
Osmanli; it led through the centre, of their moun-
tain territory to the town and palace of Diodesian,
the extensive ruins of which are still to be seen near
the little town and fortress of Podgoritza; a great
part of the walls are even yet in tolerable preser-
vation; and we can distinctiy trace the palace of
the Roman Emperor, and several other public bufld-
ings of great magnitude, with their broken columns
of marble, and Latin inscriptions.
Prizren, with its casteDated citadel, before the in-
\Tntion of cannon must have been a position of great
miUtary importance, but being commanded by the
adjoining heights, it could not in modem warfare
either rcast the attack, or arrest the progress of an
enemy; the threatening aspect of its cannon and
imposing appearance, however, serves to overawe the
neighbouring Amout mountaineers, the most deter-
mined enemies of Turkish reform. A few years
UPPER ALBANIA. 13
»iice they bcat-ged the town ; but all thor eodea-
vours to obtam possesion of the dtadd proved
abortive, the Amuutski gun bciog found to be of no
use in battering down stone walls ; they, howeyer,
succeeded ia compelling the Pacha to deli>'er up a
party of their couoti^-men, who had been fordUy
carried off from thar villages to serve in the army of
the Nizam-y-t^cdid.
Beautifiil and picturesque as Prizren appears st m
distance^ rising in the form of an amphitheatre from
the rolling Maritzka up to the dtadel, the charm
vaiushes when we enter Its narrow, badly-paved
streets, and houses built of mud, or bricks, dried in
the sun. It has the ad^'antage of being well su}^lied
with water ; we everywhere meet with fountains^
streaming down to the river beneath, which serve
to keep it dean and cool the air ; hence Prizren is
one of the most salubrious towns in 'European
Tiu-key. It is the seat of a Greek Archbishop^ ap-
pointed by the Ottoman Porte, for whose mainte-
nance a tax is imposed on the inhabitants of his
diocese, professing the Greek rdigioo; the andent
episcopal palace, the finest building in the town, has
been appropriated, since the Turkish conquest, as the
konak of the Pacha. We also find here one of the
largest and most commodious bans m European
Turkey, said to have been erected by Lazar, the last
Krai of Ser%ia. It consists of a square buildinf^
surrounding a court-yard, and secured by a massive
14 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
wooden gate, underneath are the warehouses for
merchandize and stables, and above the bed-rooms
fof travelers, opening into a corridor, like those we
see in a convent, which surrounds the building. Eadi
room is furnished with a rush mat, a straw bolster,
a pitdier of water, and secured by lock and key. It
has a coffee-room (kavana), where refreshments of
every kind may be had from the hanjL
During the few days I remained at Prizren, there
was great excitement among the inhabitants; in
addition to the political intelligence from Bosnia, of
which Veli B^ was the bearer, the. most alarming
accounts were everywhere promulgated respecting
the insurrection of the Amouts in Central Albania.
It was highly amusing to witness the bustle and
activity among these usually grave and sedate
Mussulmans, the coffee-houses were filled with
politidans discusang the events of the day with quite
as much impassioned energy as if they had been
F^chmen. Every armourer in the town had full
employment, the rusty cannon in the city was being
put in order, masons and carpenters were busily
engaged in repairing the old breaches in the walk
and strengthening the chevaux-de-frise that sur-
rounded the Varosh with planks of solid oak, and
assuredly not the least interesting sight was the
angular aspect of the numerous bodies of peaceable
timid Amouts with their petty chiefe, and Rayahs
with their codgi-bashas, that were seen hastening
UFFER ALBAMU. 15
from the neighbouring villages, to sedc protection
under the cannon of the dtadd, donkeys and mule*,
moved onward, heavily laden with children and
valuable moveables. Altogether it was a novd ^)eo
tade to a traveller from Western Europe^ and hig^y
characteristic of the lawless state of sodety in these
provinces, and the insecure tenure by which proper^
and life is held, when uiy sudden outbreak is ex-
pected from the fierce inhabitants (^ the adjoning
mountains, particularly at a time like this, when the
conscription was about being enforced.
I parted from my friend, Veli Bey, at Prizren, and
here I found my kiraidji Gcorgy waiting my arrival,
with his konics in excellent condition: this was for-
tunate, since my own horse, owing to the fricticHi
of &e saddle, among his other iDs, vras suffering
from a sore back, whidi rendered him totally in-
capable of continuing the journey, I vras thereforo
glad to find a purchaser in a gipsy, who in this
country, among the other trades of his errant raoc^
exerdsc the profession of horse^ealer and &rrier, and
is said to be acquainted with many valuable secrete
in the veterinary art.
My original intention in selecting Prizren si a
temporary halting-place, was to extend my excor-
rions through the mountain districts of Upper
Albania to Ocrida, a perfect terra incognito. Thi*
route is never taken by the cooductora of the
caravan, who regard it as one of the least i
16 TRAVRLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
and most difficult of access of any in these pro-
vinces, abounding as it does in deep gorges and
defiles, inhabited by the Latin Miriditi indepen-
dent tnbes, who, it is said, put to death every
Tuilc, or schismatic Greek, who enters thcjr terri-
tory, without being accompanied by a guide of their
own people. Having proved on more than one
occasion the talent of the Turks and Rayahs for
magnifying danger, and knowing also, that as an
inhabitant of the West I had nothing to fear, being
certain of meeting with some Austrian or Italian
monk, with whom I could converse, I should have
. persevered in my intention, were it not for the urgent
representations of Veli Bey, who assured me it was
highly probaUe that the Latin Miriditi would make
common cause with their brethren, the Amout Miriditi,
and that he was at that moment treating witii several
of their influential dncfe, with the view of preventing
such a union. Under these drcumstanccs I decided on
taking a more circuitous route, and to visit Mace-
donia on my way to Albania.
I had much difficulty in refusing the kind offers of
the Pacha of Prizren, and my friend, Veli Bey, who
pressed upon me an armed escort of the kavaas, as far
as the fortified town of Uskioub, in Macedonia. In
truth, I was heartily glad to throw off the restraint
of travelling in company witii a Mahometan official,
the expense it entails upon the traveller is not trifling.
Again, I was in a manner debarred from communi-
UPPER ALBANIA. 17
eating with the Rayahs and merchants of the towns^
1 and consequently becoming more intimatdy ac-
quainted with the political and social state of the
countiy, as they are always more guarded in their
conversation with a Frank, who may be the friend
and guest of a Mahometan in authmty. And now
with no other protection than the good fidth and
] attachment of my honest kiraidji Georgy, we com-
menced our lonely tour through the mountains, and
since every step he made in advance was conductii^
him from the dangerous atmosphere breathed by an
Amout, he made the rocks and forests edbo and re-
echo with his warlike songs of Servian heroes.
We traveUed for some time along the diarming
banks of the Maritzka or Moratscha, sheltered from
the rays of the sun by a fine grove of poplars ; here
the industry and taste of the inhabitants had been
exerted with effect in beautifying nature— a very
unusual sight in these provinces of European Turkq^t
there were flower gardens, with summer-houses in
the form of little temples, and fountsdns of the purest
crystal water ; we saw also occasionally the harem of
some rich Amout, surrounded by a garden, and
secluded from the profane eye of the passenger by
high walls, resembHng those of a convent in Roman
Catholic countries.
At length, we left behind us these indications of
dvilization, and once more took to the mountains.
On ascending one of the lesser peaks of the Kobo-
vou IL c
18 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
litza, i^hose highest summit rises to a height of at
least seven thousand feet, the prospect was at once
wild and magnificenti ^gantic piles of hare and
nigged rock shot up in every direction, in some
places streaked with snow, and wooded at thcjr base
witii the dense foliage of the forest ; defiles traversed
defiles, and yawning gorges lay at a frightful depth
beneath us ; it appeared a desert, for there was no
hut, neither did the slightest appearance of human
life meet our view, with the exception of a Turkish
karaoul, perched on the summit of a projecting crag,
whidi bdng composed of watUeSj and thatched with
rushes, looked m the distance like an eagle's nest
Only a few years ^nce, thb route was one of the
most dangerous in European Turkey, infested by a
tribe of brigands, called the Lakovlaki, who were
accustomed to descend on the rich plains of Mace-
donia, and rob the caravans ; thanks to the exertions
of the authorities, who in this respect have shown
some energy, the robbers were slain, or driven out of
their retreats, and those among them who surren-
dered, have been transformed into a spedes of police,
and now protect the traveQer, stationed in a succes-
sion of guard-houses, similar to that we described:
they are always placed in a position to command a
complete view of the route of the caravan. In places
where thqr are intended to be stationary, they are
constructed of stone, with the door of entrance at the
top, to which the pandours ascend by a ladder, that
UPPER ALBANIA. 19
can be drawn up in the c^xnt of an attack; in
addition to tliis, they are perforated with holes in
the walls, for the purpose of firing on thdr assailants ;
in another respect they are advantageous to the
traveller, since he may rest in them during the day or
night, and find refreshment for himself and his horse.
Unfortunately, in this unhappy coimtry, where
misrule more or less prevails in every department
of the administration, the best intentions of the
Government are in\'aTiably frustrated ; the veriest
Mahometan peasant, as soon as he is installed in
ofiice, however subordinate his position, becomes a
petty tjTant, and proportions his rapacity according
to his power and influence; the pandour of the
karaoul, not content with his emolumccts, which I
have been assured by the Turkish authorities, amply
suf!ice for every want, levies a contribution on the
traveDor and the caravan, this he does, by demanding
to see if the passport is in order — a mere pretence to
extort a backschish, which is done with the swa^er-
ing insolence of a brigand, and in nearly every
instance, if the bearer is a timid Rayah, it is per-
emptorily enforced as a toll. Among the various
European customs and usages here and there intro-
duced into European Turkey, the passport system is
decidedly the most vexatious to the inhabitants, and
the least calculated to answer the object it professes
to have in view ; it has proved wholly inefficadous as a
preventive even in populous countries, but hertv where
c 3
20 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
a man can travd from frontier to frontier, without
passing through a town or village, passports are
manifestly usdess.
On pasung the karaoul, our route by through a
diaos of arid rocks till we came to the torrent of
the KaDcandd, when following its steep and rugged
banks, we arrived at a spot resembling an oasis m
the desert, on which stood the pretty summer kiosk
of the Pacha of Kalkandel, fit>m whence a sort of
road led to the town. Kalkandel, the andent Kan-
dilar, with its luxuriant vineyards rising in terraces
at the base of the stupendous Schar, its groves and
fruit gardens, its fertile fields of grain, its rich
l^antations of tobacco and prairies covered with
flodcs and herds, was a cheering «ght to the traveller
who had acoompliafaed the tiresome journey over the
rodcy mountains lying between this town and Prizren.
It was also the first town in Macedonia ; the herald,
as it were, of the wdl-known fertility of that beau-
tiful country. Like Prizren and several other towns
in these mountain districts, Kalkandd is situated on
an devated barin, the soil is alluvial, and of great
fertili^, and no doubt formed, at some early espodk^
the bed of a lake. From hence the Schar, the
Scardus of the Romans, is seen in all its magni-
ficence, riang to a hdgfat of dght thousand feet
above the level of the sea, and may be ascended to its
highest summit
Kalkandd, a small town of a few thousand in-
j
I
I
1
MACEDONIA. 21
habitants, presents no feature to interest the traveller
except its tobacco manufSeu^tory and the pretty kiosk
of the Facha — the fec-simile of a Tyrolean cottage
ornamented with saints and angels, and written
tablets of some portion of the breviaiy; but for
which our F^cha, hke a good Mahometan, has sub-
stituted bouquets of flowers, arabesques and sentences
from the Koran. This HtUe pachaKk, although
nominally under the jurisdiction of a padia of one
tul, is in reality subject to the government of the
Sandjak of Uskioub.
On leaving Kalkandd, we passed over a paved
road of great antiquity, if we might judge from the
immense size of the paving-stones, and tiie deep ruts
worn into them by the friction of centuries ; we also
found a wooden bridge over the Vardar, the Axius
of the ancients, which has its source in the moun-
tains near Kostovo. From here we ascended the
Dervenski Flamna through a fine forest of oak-trees ;
the summit exhibited a beautiful dell, green as a
lawn, where we found encamped a numerous caravan
preparing their evening meaL The various fires,
the singular and picturesque costume of the traveDers,
Jews, Armenians, Zinzars, Slavonians, Greeks and
Albanians, formed an animated and interesting picture
in this wild mountain district.
Georgy appeared quite at home, knew everybody,
and was everywhere greeted with loud shouts of
welcome, and " Kako ji Tjordji r wooden bottles and
22 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
gourds fiHed with wine or raid, were pressed upoQ
us by many a hand; and on every ade we were
overwhehned witii invitations to partake of the even-
ing meaL' Sedng so much preparation of roasting,
stewing, and baking cakes, it required little persua*
sion to induce two hungiy traveQers io join the first
group that made place for them. A carpet spread
on the grass, served all the purpose of a table-doth,
while gourds filled with wine and raid, passed firom
hand to hand with as much warmth and hilarity, as
if we had been seated at the hospitable board of
some vahied fifiend. . .
Neariy the whole of our new fiiends were kiraidji,
men who had foDowed that employment firom their
earliest youth — conveying merchandize and travellers
firom one part of the Turkish empire to another;
and truty a more hardy, robust set of feQows could
not be produced in any country. In travelling
through certain dbturbed districts, the kiraidji are
aDowed by the Turkish authorities to cany fir«iniMi;
and as they always journey in parties of from twraty
to thirty, or even a hundred, when some dangerous
pass is to be traversed, they have more than once
been known to repulse the attack of more than
double their number of brigands. Notwithstanding
ih^ differ in nation, creed and language, they make
use of a patois composed of Slavonian and Greek,
common to all; and, like members of the same
fiimily, are ever ready to render mutual as»stance in
;
HACBDONIA. _ 23
any embairassmeat or accident that ma; hi^qpeo on
the journey. Accustomed to traverse so manylaoda,
and frequently holding converse with some eol^it-
med traveller, trader or merdiant, of the lai^ towns
and ports, they are far in advance in intejligence aod
intellect of the rest of the population, who, rarely
quitting th«r own contracted drde, bequeath to
successive generations thdr antiquated prejodBoes at
caste, race and creed.
Perhaps no scene in the miscellaneous bivouaa
iumilar to that I was now contemplating, ia mace
interesting than that exhibited at eariy mcHm. How
often have 1 seen Chrisdan, Jew and Mahometan,
esdi according to the form dictated by his re^gioo,
offer up his prayers to the same Almighty Father.
The Mahometan, with his face to the East, bowed
to the earth ; the Hebrew, enveloping himself in lui
shawl, sfud his ^ent prayer : the Christian, devoutly
crossing himsdf, beat his breast, counted his nnary,
and repeated his Ave Maria; and notwithstanding
the broad line that separated the tenets of each from
the other, I never heard in all my wandainga with
them, any allusion that could wound religious fiscSng.
Even the self-complacent, haughty, prejudiced Mussul-
man, in other places exhibiting a bearing so repulave
and arrogant, here while foDowing his vocation as Id-
raidji, or traveller, where all were equal, did not scruple
to drink his wine or raki out of the gourd of a Rayah,
or to add his store of provisions to the general stodc
24 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
When it is remembered that we are travdling in a
oountiy destitute of roads, and where every artide of
merdiandize is transported on the backs of beasts of
burden, and that consequently many thousands of
intelfigent men are employed in the traffic, it is easy
to imagine the facilitid» - afforded them for dissemi-
nating their views and opimons, for sowing the seeds
of a more liberal and elevated tone of feeling among
the population of the remote towns and villages.
This cause has, perhaps, been more instrumental tiian
we are aware, in checking the progress of barbarism
among the people of these countries, so long a prey
to the evils inflicted by the mal-administration of a
sdfish, ignorant, fanatic government, which has not
advanced a single step m promoting the inteDectual
progress of the people. Perhaps few things tend
mare to invigorate man's frame than mountain
travdling, the bivouac, and the pure air ; the absence
of the insalubrious influences of towns and cities —
the keen appetite and bracing effect of active exercise
on the nerves, compensate for the loss of those luxu-
ries we have been accustomed to regard as indis-
pensable to our exbtence, and prove how littie man
requires here bdow.
At eaily dawn we were again in the saddle, steering
towards Usldoub ; and truly it required the qr^ of
the most practised guide to discover the right track
among the maze of tiny horse-paths that now bewil-
dered us, leading to every point of the compass.
\
I
I
4
UACBDOMU. , 2S
Even my experieDced kiraidji appeared puzzled ; we
had a dense forest before us, with hen aod there s
majestic cliff shootiog up in lof^ grandeur, but so
nmilar in form and size, as to render it nearly
impos^e to distinguish one from the other ; he firat
tried one path, and then another, till vexed and
disappointed, he was obliged to scramUe up the
steep sides ol a crag, and reconnoitre ; after mudi
panting and blowing — for Geoigy was a great enemy
to uang the supporten nature bad g^ven him — the
desired beacon was discovered, in the f«m t^ a
distant karaoul, as usual, perdied on the sumniit ot
a projecting diff.
Having reached the karaoul, we descended into a
dark and dismal defile, with a roaring torrent dashing
through the centre; here, perpendicular roda formed
a natural arch over our heads ; there^ they seemed so
lightly poised on each other, that it i^peared as if
the first blast of wind would suffice to huil them
down and crush us. On emer^ng from this fw-
midable gorge — wluch, according to Georgy's dialect
of the Slavonian, was called Groubatsdiia — « wild,
rocky desert lay before us, with no appearance of
vegetation save a little stunted brushwood. I had
frequently before met with cemeteries, both Ma-
hometan and Christian, in the most remote and
desolate situations, unendosed, and without either
town or village in thor vidnily, and ther^nv fdt no
surprise at finding one here; but it was the great
26 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
extent, and the number of turbaned heads on the
tombstones, chlsdied with considerable art, and green
with the moss of centuries, that drew my attention,
appearing like an army of Mahometans shooting up
among the brushwood; several bore inscriptions in
the Turkish language, but so covered with moss, that
it would have required a considerable time to deqrpher
them. Georgy informed me, that there was a tra-
dition current in the country, of a great battle having
been fought here, and in the defile through which we
passed, between the Servians and the Turks, and
that this was the burial-place of the dead.
From hence, we descended into the valley of the
Vlanitza, and after fordmg its torrent, our route
became comparatively easy ; we found a bridge over
the Vardar, but were obliged to ford another torrent-
the Lepenatsch — the water nearly reaching to our
saddle-girths. Here is the pretty kiosk of the Pacha,
and something that might be called a carriage-road,
about a league in length, that conducted us to
Uskioub.
Uskioub, the ancient Scopia, situated on an ele-
vated plateau of great extent, the centre of a great
number of old roads, that lead into the neighbouring
provinces, in the time of the Macedonians and the
Romans was a position of great military importance.
Of the Macedonians, no monument whatever exists ;
but the Romans have left us the solid waDs of the
castle to admire, and an aqueduct of fifty-five arches.
r
MACEDONIA. 37
in the vicinity of the town, which now serves as a
shelter for the shepherds with their flocks and herds
from the heat of summer and the cold of wiat^.
The castle, situated on an eminence oa the banks
of the Vardar, has been partiaDy destroyed at dif-
ferent epochs, and agmn put in repair, which enables
us to recognize the architecture of the Byzantine
Greeks, the Krals of Servia, and that of its present
masters, the Turks, to whose negligence its present
^lapidated condition may be attributed. The
Sandjak of Uskiouh, which extends over a vast ex-
tent of country, including several minor pachallks, is
a post of great importance and emolument; it is
usually conferred upon some Turkish officer of high
rank and merit. The well-known Omer Pacha, who
has so of\en succeeded in subduing the non-refonning
insurgents of Bosnia and Albania, is the present
Sandjak. This fortunate adventurer, a native of
Hungarian Croatia, formerly served as a non-com-
missioned officer in the Austrian army. Having no
certain authority for the truth of the numerous
reports in circulation, of the cause that provoked him
to desert the standard of his most Christian Majesty
the Emperor, and transfer his all^iancc to the Caliph
of the Faithful, it b suffidcnt for our sketch of this
distinguished officer, to say that he abjured Chris-
tianity, and displaying great military talents, rose
rapidly, from one command to another, till ho has
now attained the highest grade in his profesaoo.
28 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
He is said to be highly popular with the army ; at
the same time, his respect for the laws, and his
endeavours to improve the condition of the Rayah,
have rendered him a general favoiuite with that
dass of the population : as a natural consequence, he
has created a host of enemies among the fimatic
Mahometans, who r^ard him as a Giaour at heart,
and who, in this land of intrigue, may ultimately
succeed in procuring his dismissal from a post which
he owes to his merit alone. He was at this time
busily employed in drilling the Nizam-y-Ejedid, pre-
paratory to their taking the field against the insur-
gents of Bosnia and Albania.
The population of Usldoub, consisting of Amouts,
Jews, Armenians, Zinzars, Greeks, Bulgarians and
Servians, amounts to upwards of twelve thousand ;
like every other large town we visited in these pro-
vinces, it has its covered bazaar, coffee-houses,
restaurants, mosques and fountsdns, houses buflt of
sun-burnt bricks, narrow streets, dirty and ill-paved ;
the singular stone bridge, with its seven arches,
thrown over the Vardar, is more remarkable for its
massive strength than its elegance, and is of such
antiquity, that there exists no tradition to tell us by
whom, or at what period, it was erected.
In 1340, when tiie dominions of the Krals of
Serria comprehended Albania, Bulgaria and neariy
the whole of Macedonia, Usldoub became the capital
of the Servian empire, then ruled by its greatest
MACEDONIA.
PnaoB, the Czar Stephan Douschan. After the
' cooquest of these provinces by the Osmanfi, the
Serviaos, in 1589, having formed an alHance mth
. the Imperialists of Austria, descended fixon thdr
J mountains in Upper Moesia, and carried aH before
them into the heart of Macedoma. Th^ took hy
j assault Uskioub, Komanova, Egri Palanka, Fnzreo,
I Ipdc: io short, all the towns and forts on Uidr
route ; and in all probability would have established
■ thor independence, had they not been desexted hf
: Austria, who, having made a separate peace widi the
! Ottoman Fort^ left the Servian insurgents to their
I fete. In looking over the piesmas of the Servians
, at ttiis epoch of their histoiy, we find the Austrians
] — or, as they term them, the Schwabs — ^voy roughly
handled for their treacheiy, wMdt has engendered a
' hatred against them in the breast of every patriotic
'. Servian up to the present day.
; We may, however, leam fivm the success of the
Servians and th^ allies, at a time when the OsmanU
were far more enterprising, numerous and powerful,
' than we find them in the present d^, the militaiy
importance that oi^ht to be attached to that part of
I Upper Moesia anoeotly called Rasda, and to whidi
: we previously refored. The fertile, salubrious
Macedonia, produong all &» luxuries of fifii in
abundance, vrith its fine ports and hatbonrs cm the
^gean Sea, has been in every age the [nize coveted
by the successive invaders of these {HX>viDoes. It
30 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
was to obtain possession of this gem of European
Turkey, that in our day induced the hero of Servia,
Tssemi George, to attack Novi-bazar with such im-
petuo»ty, the gallant patriot being fuUy aware, that
once in possession of that town and its formidable
mountain ramparts, he could with facility make a
descent upon the rich plains of Macedonia, and drive
the Turks into Constantinople, as his ancestors for-
meriy did the degenerate Greeks.
Macedoma, however much exposed to invasion
on this part of its frontier, is not without internal
resources, and few countries are better adapted, fit>m
the position of its moimtains and defiles, for carrying
on a guerilla warfare; the Despotodagh, owing to
its central position, the number of its forests and
defiles, might at once, serve as a point of gathering
and a secure retreat in danger, but unfortunatdy
for an Osmanli ruler, the inhabitants are for the
most part composed of Rayahs, a mixed race of
Greeks, Bulgarians and Servians, who, it cannot
be doubted, would join to a man their brethren
in fiiith of Servia and Upper Moesia. It must
therefore be evident that the great danger to be
apprehended to the rule of the Osmanli in these
provinces, is a successful inroad of the Servian
nationality into Macedonia; with this people they
hdxe the tradition of right, and their former great-
ness, aided by the powerful ties of race and creed.
With the exception of the valley of the Vardar,
MACEDONIA. 31
a ndi alhinal soQ, of extraordioaiy fettiUty, i»o>
dudog corn, wine, tobacco and cotton in abundancti^
the plateau of Uskioub, composed of a gravelly sandy
soil, is left to the occupation of a few nomade shq>-
herds with their flodcs and herds. We left Usldoub
by foDowing the banks of the Vardar, wluch con-
ducted us to that of the Dreske, with its picturesque
river, equally fertile and populous, and continued our
ride to Kritschovo, Prilip and Bittoglia. During our
route we found oue of those old pa\'ed roads of the
Macedonian Kings, about a yard in breadth, which
the inhabitants designate the MoDopatia, to dis-
tinguish it from those broad enough for a diariot^
which they term the Royal Road (Vasilika Strada.)
These ancient roads are invariably earned in a
straight direction, which readers them somewhat
dangerous in mountain districts, owing to the ^p>
periness of the stones and thor abrupt descent Yet
so sure-footed are the horses in use among the
natives, that accidents rarely occur, notwithstanding
that their method of shoeing, which condsts in
covering the en^ hoof of the animal vnth an iron
plate, might be supposed to render it liable to
atumU&
In countries so thinly inhabited, and where the
villages are always secluded from view, man is
sddom met with, except when tending his flocks
and herds. The fine forests of Servia, Bosiua and
Upper Moesia, are not to be found here. Previous to
32 TRAVELS IN BUROPBAN TURKBY.
the Turkish conquest, this couotiy is also said
to have heen weD wooded; but owing to the con-
tinued insurrections of the inhabitants, to whom the
forests served as a shelter, they have been in great
part destroyed. In some &voured lutuations, we
see the lofty oak raising its majestic head in com-
pany with the cypress, and even the plane-tree, the
wild vine, the fig, the pear, the olive, cherry and
pomegranate, and other species of fruit-trees, appear
indigenous to the soil, and nothing can be more
beautiful than the clusters of evergreens — ^the laurel
and myrde, the evergreen oak and the sQver-leafed
linden, mingling their various tints with the brighter
hues of a number of fragrant and aromatic parasitical
plants.
The art of horticulture appears to be entirely
unknown to the inhabitants of these provinces, fruit-
trees are neither pruned nor grafted, yet we have
frequently met with fruit, that could not be exceeded
in size and flavour in any coimtry. The blue plum
is imiversally cultivated, and attains great perfection
in Bosnia and Upper Moesia, whence it is exported
in large quantities to Hungary and Austria, in
addition to what is consumed by the natives in
makinfiT rakL
The climate of Macedonia is by no means so warm
as might be expected in such a latitude ; this is owing
to the cold winds that blow from the Alps in its
vicinity, and the Steppes of Besserabia and the
I
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MACEDONIA. 33
i Crimea, in South Russia, which render the wbters
j severe, and even in summer the pierdng blast of the
j anitolekonmeros, as the natives call it, will not be eaafy
forgotten by the traveller who has once experienced
it The sirocco sometimes prevails, and penetrates
through the valleys and defiles of the mountuns even
to Ser\ia and Bosnia, on the Danube and the Save.
I In the Alpine districts of Bosnia, Upper Moeaa and
Tchemegora, extending to Gousnec, Ipek and Prizren,
and from thence to the Schar, at Kalkandel, snow is
found throughout the year. In the higher r^ions
of these districts the winter commences in September,
and continues in all its rigour till the commencement
of April The inhabitants, however, are a fine,
healthy race, and totally exempt fit)m the goitre,
the curse of most mountainous countries; at least,
we did not meet with a single case, and no where
did we see the unfortunate cretins^ so common in
the Tyrol and Switzerland; this may, perhq», be
accounted for by the water containing a sufiKdent
quantity of magnesia, which is said to be a preven-
tive.
VOL. n.
11
l< ?
f!
34
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
* J
i
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CHAPTER n.
Dreaiy aspect of the countiy — Arrival at Prilip — InterestiDg
ndns of a castle beloDg^g to the ancient Krals of Servia —
Sbgnlar wooden bridge — Mountain travelling in Macedonia
—Splendid view — Bivonac — Romantic defile — Interesting
vallej — ^The late rebellion of the Amonts — Victories of
Omer Pacha — ^Bivouac with the Amonts — Plain of Bit-
to^ — Pirodnctions — ^Villages-- Inhabitants — Dissertation
on the roads of European Turkey — Inertness of the
Turkish Government — ^Anecdote of the Vizier of Bou-
melia — Camp of the Nizam and the Amouts — Arrival at
Bittoglia— Frank society— Halil Effendi— His romantic
history— Spanish Jews— English merchandize— Mustapha
Bej — Grand entertainment — Sketch of Bittoglia*
}
On learaig the beautiful valley of the Dreska we
crossed the mountdns to KritschovOy the ancient
Scirtiana, now a small hamlet, not exceeding a few
hundred houses. It was melancholy to see the beau-
tiful and extensive basin in which it stood, evidently
very fertQe, so little cultivated. Several deserted vil-
i
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MACEDONIA. 35
' lagcs were also scattered here and there, showing that
this district must have been the theatre of some
murderous conflict, and that recently. Kritscfaovo
is beautifully situated at the foot of a chain of moun-
tains of no great elevation, here and there covered with
the foliage of the forest, imparting a refreshing aspect
in these districts of Macedonia, where the cold, barren
rock is too often the principal feature in the land-
scape; and though these mountains are broken up
into a number of fertile deOs, tiny valleys, gorges and
defiles, through which roll the waters of the Zayas, the
Karasou, the Kandrisou, and several other minor
streams that flow into the Vardar, the country ap-
pearing weJl adapted for agricultural purposes; yet
the sole inhabitants we met during our route, con-
sisted of a few wandering nomades, with their flocks
and herds. Even the industrious Bulgarian usually
found where he can sow and reap, however lawless
may be the other inhabitants of the district, was not to
be seen here ; and if it had not been for a karaoul,
occupied by a few drowsy pandours, we might have
\ deemed the country was in possession of the
! Ouskoks.
We followed the banks of the Karasou, or, as
Georgy called it, theTzema (Black river), to Perlipor
Prilip, the ancient Parembole, an important town, con-
taining from five to six thousand inhabitants. The
most interesting remains of the Servian empire in
Macedonia are to be found a short distance from
D 2
36 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURRET.
the town — the really magnificent ruins of the casUe
of the Servian hero, Marko Kraliench, built on
the summit of a rock, nearly four hundred feet high,
and only accessible by a staircase hewn out of the
almost perpendicular rock.
We left the ancient Parembole by cros^g the
Kandii, wluch runs through the town, over a
wooden bridge, most singularly constructed. On
each bank and in the centre, were erected stone
piers, of great antiquity and massive strength ; upon
these rested trunks of trees, placed longitudinally,
with their branches crosswise, listened together with
thongs made from the bark; and as the fastening
of these wattles had given way here and there, it
required all our care and attention to prevent our-
sdves and horses from being submerged in the
roaring torrent beneath, in addition to which, the
bridge was very narrow, and without a parapet Our
troubles, however, had only commenced, for on gain-
ing the opposite bank, we had to ascend the steep
Sides of an arid mountdn ; the pathway being hewn
out of the rock, where every step we made in ad-
vance increased the danger of our position, by
adding to the depth of the fearful gorge beneath ; for
there was ndther projecting crag nor plant, nor
shrub to ding to, should our horses make a frlse
step ; at the same time, the sun poured down upon
us a flood of heat, which being reflected by the
calcareous rock, was sufficient to mdt a Salamander ;
MACEDOHU. 37
and as a dimaz to our sufferings, more particulariy
those of our poor horses, we had to wage a battle of
life tmd death agwnst an innumeraUe anny of
hornets. But as evoytiiing must have an end, we
fought our way to the summit, when a refiesUng
I breeze relieved us of our enemies ; and as a compen-
i satioD for our victory, we enjoyed one of the moet
] extensive and beautiful prospects in this part of
< Macedonia.
I There was the fertile plain of Bittoglia, or as the
■ Turks term it, Toli Monastir, dotted with numerous
I villages, and intersected by several fine rivers winiUng
! their course to the JEgean Sea, the whole bounded
; by the stupendous chain of the Albanian mountains,
I over which rose in majestic grandeur the lof^ peak
- of the Soagora capped with snow,
I Having suifidently rested, and re&eshed oundves
with a capital shoulder of lamb, whidi Georgy
managed to cook to admiration, to whidt we added
] a brace of dunty trout, caught in the mountain
' rivulet, we descended into one of the most romantio
I de61es I had yet seen in these provinces. On each
I side rose a picturesque chaos of rocky luDs, partially
I decked with the mingled foliage of a forest of flower-
I ing shrubs, interiaced with every species of parasitical
I plant and odoriferous herb, here and there fornuog
; an impenetrable bower, which protected us from the
I rays of the sun ; and although we did not meet with
I a ungle human bang, we had the loud roar of m
38 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
torrent-Uke river, sparkHng with fish, to cheer us on
our way.
As we advanced, the defile presented a succesdon
of rocks of the most fantastic forms : there were
rugged battlements, nuned towers, crumbling arches,
lofty pyramids, and columns almost as perfect as if
shaped by the hand of man. This was succeeded by
an open valley, cultivated with the most diligent
industry: there were fields of cotton, maize and
tobacco, stacks of hay and com, grazing-grounds
with homed cattle, and the sides of the mountdns
covered with sheep and goats ; in the gardens and
orchards melons were mingling their leaves^ and
twining their stems with the luxuriant vine, and to
judge from the quantity cultivated, we must infer
that the inhabitants, who for the most part are
composed of Arnouts, do not yield very strict obe-
dience to the injunctions of the Prophet. I observed
with pleasure a decided improvement in the huts of
the peasant, and the general appearance of the
country and people, indicating an advancement in
civilization, an evidence that the Government was
becoming more patemal in its character — just in its
administration, and as a further sign of improvement,
every karaoul we saw was built of stone. A river
dear as crystal, dashing over its rocky bed, provided
the inhabitants with a nevefr-failing supply of water,
a great advantage in this part of Macedonia, where
rain seldom falls during summer.
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MACBDONIA. 39
Nature has done much for the happiness of man
in this lovely country ; hut if we inquire into the
history of this valley, and indeed of the whole district
from Usldoub to the plain of Bittoglia, we shall find
how fearfully his passions have frustrated her inten-
tions ; for this vast range of coimtiy has been the
theatre of one of the most sanguinary insurrections
of the AmoutSy and their adherents, on record. It
occurred only a few years since, yet so great is the
timidity of the Rayahs, and unwillingness of the
] Turks to discuss the doings of the Divan, it was
'. only on arriving at Bittoglia, that I gleaned from the
; Franks settied there a few imperfect details of the
tragedy. Even Gcorgy, when I pointed out to lum
the ruins of \illages, and the dilapidation still visible
in many of the towns we passed through during our
route, and desired to know the cause, started with
dread at the question, and remained silent
'i
It appears, a Dervish, better known under the name
of the Czar, obtained great celebrity by his devotion,
and the austerity of his manners ; and so great was
the fame of his amulets, and the healing power of his
medicaments, that he was visited by the sick, and
those afflicted with the evQ' eye, from every part of
the country, not only by the Mahometans, but the
Christians. In process of time, his admirers having
increased fit>m hundreds to thousands, he pretended,
like other impostors, to be favoured with visions from
on high, and to hold converse with the Projdiet
40 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Mahomet Possessing great energy and eloquence,
he preached in the mosque and the high places
against the reforms of the Sultan, denouncing them
as tending to the subversion of Islamism ; at length,
encouraged by the indignant feelings hb eloquence
had excited in the multitude, and by the number of
his adherents, he boldly threw off the mask, and
proclaimed himself to be the descendant of the great
Iskender, the man sent by Allah to conquer and
preserve the true faith, and assumed the title of
Padishah of Roumelia.
The Amouts, whose disposition is at all times
warlike and predatory, and who have been evex
notorious for their hostility to the reforms of the Sultan,
were the first to join the standard of the impostor ;
they were quickly followed by a number of disgraced
Pachas, Beys and Spahis, who had been com-
promised in former rebellions, and were now thrown
on the world penniless. Their example influenced
their clans, and other fanatic Mussulmans, who be-
lieved the reforms of the Sultan would cause the
ruin of the Turkish monarchy. Hence, in an in-
credibly short space of time, this extraordinary
madman saw himself the acknowledged chief of a
large armed force. Their first encounter with the
Turkish authorities took place at Uskioub, where,
having beat the Nizam, they entered the town and
plundered the Christians, together with those Maho-
metans who sided with the Government, whence
>
\
MACBDONLL 41
their march to the valley, through which we were
now traveQiDg, resembled a triumph ; the gates of
every town flew open to them, and the inhalntanta^
by a voluntaiy contribution, purdiased security fitmi
ill-treatment and plunder.
Here they held their first encampment, die rodci
and jutting crags serving all the purposes of a
fortified citadel, and here they awaited the arrival
of their adherents in Bosnia and Albania, befim
they attempted to meet Omer Padia, who lay ea-
I camped with a well-appointed army, on the phdna
I of Bittoglia. The gallant Croatian made several
fruitless attempts to draw out the enemy, or force
the pass, till seeing his men becoming dispirited,
fi^m their inability to cope with the long gun, and
steady aim of the Amout, ensconced in his rodcy
fortress, he resolved to follow the advice of the Divan,
and attempt to n^otiate ; the reforms of the Sultan
were everywhere unpopular with the majority of his
Mussulman subjects, and the loss of a batde against
the insurgents by so experienced a commander as
Omer Pacha, might prove the signal for a general
rising of all the disaffected and fanatic in the
empire.
j From the first Turkish invasion of these provinces
down to the present day, every page of thdr histoty
: attests the superiority of the Asiatic mind over the
: European, when fighting the battle of political in-
trigue ; a little soft sawder, to make use of a most
i- -1
42 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
exp-essive Scotch phrase, with rolls of parchment,
and gaudy mantles, have ever proved more effectual
in quelling a revolt of the Albanians and Slavonians,
than cannon-baEs and bayonets. In these matters
the Greek alone is found to be equal, if not superior,
to the OsmanlL How the Croatian Omer Fku^ha
must have exulted, when he found he had succeeded
in alluring to. his tent the mad Dervish, and his
prindpal chiefs ; and now that he had secured the
leaders, he lost no time in following up his advantage
by falling upon the insurgents before they had time
to recover from their confusion. StiU the victory was
won with great difficulty, and loss of life, since every
projecting diff, and jutting crag, was disputed with a
bravery worthy of a better cause.
We have also to record, that the Ottoman Govern-
ment, now more humane in its administration than
formerly, and perhaps conscious of the disgraceful
want of truth it had shown towards the chiefs of the
insurgents, was contented with exiling the self-styled
Padishah of Roumclia and his principal followers to
Asia, and granted a full pardon to the great mass of
the rebels on their returning, without delay, to their
respective homes.
On emerging from this eventful valley, we again
took to the mountains, and passed over a small
plateau, entirely covered with fragments of rock, and
great, loose, round stones, which appeared as if they
had fallen on it from heaven, while every species of
MA.CEDOKIA.
t
floweriag shrub grew among them with the greatest
luxuriance, and here and there a majestic oak. How
ofteo have I admired the picturesque beauty of thesa
i; provinces, once so populous, now wild and
: desolate ; if the scenery here was not so subUme as
that in the Alpine districts, through which we had
been so loDg wandering, it possessed a peculiar chann
of its own. In one place, pile upon pile of rock, in
every fanastic form, surrounded us, now seeming to
bar all fiirther progress, when suddenly on our
passing through a deep chasm, we entered a park-like
deO, green as an emerald, resembling a miniature
world surrounded by its own encircling chain.
Id these solitudes, where man is rarely seen, every
living thing seemed to rejoice in hb absence; the
hum of the insects in the herbage could only be
equalled by the checiful song of the feathered tribes,
land tortoises, snakes, and beautiful lizards were
crawling under our horses* feet, the timid hare and
graceful deer occasionally bounded before us, while
high above all the soaring eagle, with his bead
inclined downwards, seemed following the movements
of some unlucky animal he had selected as his prey.
As we were still eight hours' ride from Bittoglia, and
suffering firom heat, to say noUiing of the jaded con-
dition of our horses, we determined to seek some
shady nook where we could conveniently bivouac and
find herbage for our cattle; while engaged in oar
search we perceived a volume of smoke curling above
44 TfUVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the diffis, and as we advanced the enlivening sounds
of a bagjnpe feQ upon the ear, which told that we
should 6nd a party of travellers encamped for the
night We were not disappointed ; for on entering
a tiny deD, we discovered a party of Amouts husily
employed in roasting a lamh for supper, while a
ragged gipsy, almost as dark as a negro, was trying
to extract nmsac from his pipes, in return for the
privil^e of heing allowed to pick the hones the
Amouts threw away. Courteous and hospitahle as
these gallant feQows always are when thqf come in
contact with a Frank, they welcomed me with every
indication of warmth and sincerity to partake of ihdr
supper, and immediately made cveiy arrangement
that could conduce to my comfort My carpet was
placed in such a position that I might be in some
measure screened from the night air, and protected
from the smoke of the fire. We enjoyed a most
substantial meal, with the exception of poor Georgy,
whose less indulgent Church again condemned him
to sup on bread and cheese. As usual with this
warlike race, the weapons I carried with me became
the subject of conversation ; and as they estimated
their value according to the costliness of the ornaments
and the length of the barrels, they were condemned
as mere toys, only fit for the amusement of children.
Somewhat piqued at their sarcastic remarks, and
desirous to impress my companions with a more cor-
rect opinion of the excellence of an English gun — and
MACEDONIA. 45
it may be a Utde vain of my own ability as a marks-
man— ^wfaile seeking for some object on wbich to
display my skill, a magnificent vulture, attracted no
doubt by the savoury smeQ of our supper, came
within range of my gun ; I fired, and being perhaps
more fortunate than usual, the bird dropped at our
feet, its head shattered to pieces. A result so un-
expected called forth the loudest demonstrations iji
applause. Thd Ingleski gun was pronounced m
miracle of art This led to a trial of skill at m
mark ; and the sequd proved, that practice improved
by science^ was more than a match for an Amout
and his unwiddy amoutka.
In these Southern provinces of European Turk^,
where the heat of summer is so intense, traveling
by night, where it is practicable, is usually adopted ;
in the present instance, we had the advantage iji
being lighted on our way by the beautiful Queen of
Night, in addition to myriads of fire-flies ; and our
Amout companions formed a gallant escort to pro-
tect us, as they were also bound for Bittoglia, to be
employed by the Vbder against their brethren, the
insurgents of Albania. As the day was drawing to'
a dose, we descended into the vast plain of Bitto-
glia, where we had to ford several unimportant
streams rushing onward to the duggish waters <^
the Karasou, which we soon after crossed, over m
wooden bridge, to a very considerable ^ollage^ with m
ban and a neat Gredc diurch. Here we remained
■
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I 46 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
to rest our horses during the noon-day heat; and
being Sunday, I had an opportunity of witnessing
the celebration of divine service. The sacred edifice
was not only completely fiUedy but every approach
leading to it With the exception of a few Greeks
and ZinzarSi the congregation consisted of Bulga-
rians^ easily distinguished by thdr short, thick-set
figures, honest, open countenances, and the unvary-
ing costume, we before described — a heavy woollen
mantle, never parted with either in summer or
winter ; the women, with the fickleness of thdr sex,
had changed the less becoming costume of their race
on the Danube and the Euxine, for that of their
neighbours, the more coquettish Greek. When the
service was over the women and children retired to
their homes, and the men, \vith the officiating Papa,
to the ban, to drown the cares of the week in copious
draughts of wine and raki, and to kick up their heels
to the sound of the pipe and the gousla.
On leaving the village, we passed through a suc-
cession of well-cultivated fields of maize, cotton, rice,
tobacco and saflron ; wheat, barley, millet, oats and
other hardy grains, which only a day or two pre-
viously we had seen growing in the mountain dis-
tricts, were here safely housed in the kosh — a species
of granary, in the form of a bee-hive, or tent, made
of wicker-work, and roofed with straw. The founda-
. tion is usually of stone, or the trunks of trees, to
I preserve the grain from damp and vermin. These
v
I
ii
1 1
»
MACBDONIiL 47
indications of agricultural industiy are never met
I with except in the vidnity iji a villagey and these
are few and far between; for this fine pbun, so fer-
I
. . .
} tfle and productiye, is very thinly inhabited — beings
for the most part, covered with rank grass, priddy
shrubs and forests of thistles, often attaining a height
of seven feet We also met with a number of small
lakes and stagnant marshes, caused by the overflow^
ing of the rivers, sending forth thdr noxious vapours^
and producing those intermittent fevers, so fi&tal to
the inhabitants of this part of Macedonia — an evil
I which could easily be obviated by removing the
accumulation of sand-banks that bar Uie passage of
the waters, through a plain with so inconaderaUe
a descent to the sea; but here, as dsewhere in these
provinces, the Turkish Government exhibits the most
supine indifference in everything that concerns its
own interests, and the millions of human bdngs
committed to its charge. We have already said
that there are no roads, a bridge is seldom met
with, and when it is, frequently so out of repair,
that we preferred swunming our horses over the
river to crossing it.
It aviuls nothing to the general prosperity of a
country to possess fine seas, navigable rivers, ridi
mines, a fertile soil, salubrious climate, and every
material for the creation of industrious wealth — all of
which the Osmanli has in these pro^ces — there
must be the means of brin^g these resoiuioes into
\
*
i
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i
i
\
i
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48 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
action, by safe and easy means of internal communi-
cation, otherwise the country must continue to
remdn a terra uicoyntta, and its inhabitants sink
still lower in the slough of barbarism. Apart from
the benefits that would result fi-om faciHtating mer-
cantile transactions, in proportion as man is brought
to hold intercourse with man, we advance the object
a wise legislation has in view— civilization, and the
removal of those national prgudices which isolation is
certain to engender in the minds and habits of a
people ; yet, if we expatiate on these advantages to
an Osmanli, whose narrow mind refuses to advance
b^ond the contracted drde of the few ideas he
recaved from his fore&thers, he will tell you that the
empire has prospered, and still prospers, without the
introduction of such unnecessary Frank innovations
as carriage-roads, bridges and canals, which could
have no other effect than to fecilitate an invasion of
their old enemies, the Russians and the Austrians.
We have, however, learned from a source that may
be depended upon, that the Turkish Government has
at length come to a determination of opening Imes of
railroad communication between Constantinople and
the various commercial towns on the sea-coast, and
also with the interior of the provinces ; and if we
except some of the mountainous districts in Bosnia,
Upper Moesia and Upper Albania, the undertaking
offers few engineering difficulties, and the expense
would be but trifling, when we remember that the
MACEDONIA. 49
land would cost nothing, wood is to be had for the
trouble of cutting, and the wages of the labourer are
low, while iron and coal abound in various parts of
the provinces. Indolent from temperament, and ever
suspecting the counsel of a Giaour, it Is to be hoped
that neither of these causes will operate to prevent the
execution of a design of such vast importance, and so
calculated to increase the commercial prosperity of the
country. As the scheme originated with the English,
to whom the Turks are attached by motives of political
interest, we may entertain some expectation of scdng
its accomplishment; and to show their belief in the
sincerity of our desire to contribute to thdr wd&re,
we will relate an instance that occurred during one
of my former visits to these provinces.
When visiting the newly-erected and really splendid
military hospital and barracks at Bittoglia, in company
with his Highness, Darbouhar Reschid, the Vizier, I
was surprized and pained to see the number of soldiers
swept off by intermittent fever, which was easfly ac-
counted for by the vapours arising from a pestilential
marsh in the immediate vidnity. On mentioning the
circumstance to several Italian and German medical
men in the service of the Sultan, stationed here,
they unhesitatingly confirmed my opinion, adding that
j they had frcqucnUy recommended the removal of the
I nuisance by draining the marsh, but without effect
Almost despairing that any representations of mine
would be listened to, still I resolved to make the
attempt. I explained to his Highness in what manner
VOL. II. B
so TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
marsh miasma produced disease, exaggerated its effects,
and gently hinted at the possibility of the great man
himsdf becoming a victim, espedally as his very saDow
complexion indicated great derangement of the biliary
oigans. This consideration was decisive; the terrified
Osmanli, with all the eneigy of his race when once
roused to action, immediately despatched his aides-
de-camp with orders that every able-bodied man in
the town should immediately, and without dday, conu
mence the important work of draining the marsh*
The mandate was peremptory ; fat Rayah citizens and
lazy Turks, Jews and Armenians, who had never before
handled a spade, might be seen digging a trench fix>m
the marsh to the Monastir-sou, a river that runs
through the town ; whilst others were busily employed
in carrying bricks and stones, and making mortar, to
form an archway over it Still the work was only half
done, so long as the town remained embedded in mire
during the continuance of wet weather, which became
heaps of sand in dry. In compliance with my sugges-
tions, the Vizier issued commands in the same arbitrary
manner for paving it, and removing the butchers*
stalls and other impurities.
During the time I remained at Bittoglia, I was in
high favour with the reforming Virier, and frequentiy
accompanied him in his excursions; but the good
citizens r^arded my counsels with imcUsguised appre-
hension, fearing that the next order would be to pull
down their wooden huts and substitute others of
stone, and they certainly manifested much satis&ction
d
MACEDONIA. 51
when thejr bchdd the meddling Pmak take lus de-
parture. I had, however, the gratJficaUon of leavii^
the town mon saluhrious than when I entered it;
and truly the good ritizens, when they waddle
through the streets in their papooshes, without
the danger of losing them in the mud, ought to
remember with gratitude the vi^t of an Ingleski
traveller.
On 8|^roaching the chain of mountains separating
Macedonia from Albania, the vine again decorated
the sides of the hills, and several pretty kiosks, sur-
rounded with the foli^js of the forest and the fruit
garden, lent an addiUonal charm to the beau^ of the
landscape. We had also a tolerable road, at least
80 long as the dry weather continued, leading to the
town ; and I was ^reeahfy surprized to see the clumsy
araba of other days replaced by a carriage and a pair of
horses, lliere was also a number of well-mounted
equestrians, and a multitude of gaily dressed citizens, on
thdr way to the coffee-houses at the base of the
mountain, to enjoy the exlulaniting air ct the evening
and slake their thirst with the cold crystal springs
that streamed from the rocks. As for women, the
ornament of our promenades and assemblies in the
j West, there were but few; and if not enveloped in
I the folds of the yashmak, thdr withered countenances
I rendered them anything but mteresting. The most
I attractive part of the exhibition, was the gay attire of
I the men, each arrayed in the costume of his respective
nationali^ ; tha« were turbans of every hue, mingM
B 3
52 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
with the red fez and the towering fur cap of the Jew
and Armenian. These, with the Turkish officers in full
uniform, the tall Amout in his crimson vest and white
plustan of many folds, the horses gUttering with em-
broidered housings, and the weapons with gold and
{n^ous stones, imparted an endless variety to a picture
only seen in Turkey, composed as it is of so many
different nations and tribes.
A little further, and we came to the camp of the
Nizam and the Amouts, which presented a busy and
characteristic scene of militaiy life in these countries.
There were the snow-white tents spread over the field
in the form of a fitn, in front of which were a number
of blaang fires, surrounded by groups of soldiers, here
cooking the evening meal, there amusing themselves
at their peculiar and primitive gymnastic exercises,
throwing the djirit, hurfing a heavy bar of wood, or
casting huge stones to the greatest possible distance ;
and not a few were practising on musical instruments,
so cracked and battered, as to appear as if they were
tiie refuse of all the orchestras of Western Europe.
This discordant concert was in some d^ree deadened
by the loud dang of the anvH, the sharpening of
sabres, striking of flints, and warlike songs of the
Amouts.
In the vidnity of the camp, there were the villages,
gardens, orchards and cultivated fidds of the Rayahs,
who were to be seen with their wives and children at
work — a happy change from other days, when a camp of
the irregular bands of the Beys and Spahis of Turkey
MACEDONU. S3
was as destructive to the prospmty of a district as if it
had been overrun by the marauding hordes of an enemy. ,
Whereas, now that the troops are regularly paid and pro-
vidoned by the Government, and the strictest disdpline
maintained, we rarely hear of those barbarous attacks
on the person and property of the inhabitants, whidi
disgraced the Mahometan soldiery before the intro-
duction of the Nizam ; and if this strong arm of tb«
executive remuns feithiVd, which it has luthezto
done, it may render valuable assistance in support-
ing the decaying &bric of the Turkish empire.
On arriving at Bittoglia, while our companbna,
the Amouts, were allowed to pass through the gates
of the town unquestioned, a couple of sentinds, with
crossed bayonets, barred our further progress, till a
gigantic, surly old Araout made his appearance, and
in a hoarse voice demanded to sec our pasch (pass-
port) ; mine, already signed by such a host of Padias
and Aiens of towns and cities, was found to be
correct ; but poor CSeorgy, whose pass' was from the
minister of his own little prindpality, and in the
Servian langw^ was greeted with a torrent <^
abuse : " He was the dog of dogs I all Servians were
swine — the vilest of all that was filthy " Tlie old
solcticr, who had lost an arm, and bore several ugly
scars on the hoe, had probably served in his youth
agunst the Servians, in their war of independence, and
the hard knocks he had received were now recalled to
his memory. Georgy, who was evidently accustomed
to such rude greeting, exhituted the most commendable
64 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
patience ; and as the l^aUty of his pasch could not be
disputed, he was permitted to enter and follow his
master to thehan*
However much Bittoglia may have improved since
my last visit, the hans show no signs of amelioration ;
and to add to the usual disagreeables of a Turkish inn,
we now found every room, hole and comer filled with
Amouts, billeted on the hanji. Happily, I was provided
with letters to one of the Pachas, and to several Franks
residing in the town, among whom I felt certain of
finding a comfortable konak; and I was not disap-
pointed, for on sdecting one addressed to a medical
man stationed here, in the service of the Sultan, Signer
Roberti, a Neapolitan of Capua, I foimd that gentleman
engaged with a party of fiiends celebrating his jour de
fite. There was Halil EfFendi, a French officer in the
service of the Porte ; a German, Achmet EfFendi, master
of the band ; M. Spitzer, a wealthy doth merchant, and
several ItaUan and German medical men established in
the town, or attached to the army. This was, indeed,
an unexpected jnece of good fortune for the wanderer in
Turkey, to find himself thrown among so many intelU-
gent natives of the civilized West. I need hardly say,
however fatigued I might have been after a long, tire-
some journey, we had so much to say and to hear fi^m
each other, that we did not separate till the sun
streamed the next morning through the latticed win-
dows of our apartment, when a struggle commenced
among my new fiiends as to who should receive me as
his guest. After much friendly altercation, the question
MAC8D0MU. 56
was decided by lottoy, when Hot Spitzer, the tidi
dottuer, won the prize. Such traits as tUs of ho^ii*
tality and kiodness towards the stranger in INukej,
should never he forgotten in the records of a travdlEr;
and truth to say, I had ereiy reason to be thankful,
»nce I found all the comforts of a home at his faous^
and in his sodety, and that of lus young and ami^iljlft
wife, an intellectual enjoyment to whidi I had been long
a straoga*.
Perhaps no two people, when they meet in foreign
countries far removed from home, uninfluenced hj
political rivalry, or dashing interests, ""imilnfA better,
or become sooner fiiends, than the Froidi and the
English. Halil Effendi was my constant companion,
my intelligent dceroni, and to him I was indebted for
an introduction to the Vizier Seraskier of Roumelia, and
all the dvil and military authorities of the town.
Courteous and a£^le in his manners, with a highly
cultivated mind, Halil would have been an ornament in
the most distinguished cirdes of intellectual Europe;.
Doomed to v^tata among a rude, haughty people like
the Turks, as ignorant as tbey are obstinate, be was &r
fixim being eithor contented or happy, though it must
be confessed he owed lus annoyances in some measure
to his proud spirit, which, consdous of supaiority, could
not descend to flattery, or submit to the slightest insuk;
somewhat sarcastic in his disposition, and free in hii
animadverdons upon the tmfitness of tlus or that igno*
rant adventurer, he saw raised to fill offices of the
highest trust and importance, it cannot exdte surprise
56 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
that he had many enemies in his own immediate circle.
With the Franks he was equally unpopular, who, while
they feared his caustic remarks, despised him for having
forsworn the faith of his fathers. Thus, without a
sin^ friend to whom he could confide the sorrows that
bowed down his lofty spirit, entirely out of the sphere
in which his superior intellect had destined him to
move, existence, so fiir as regarded its enjoyment, was a
blank.
During our rambles in the moimtains, he related to
me some particulars of his past life — so full of tra^c
inddenls as to appear almost a romance. His family
name was a profound secret, never to be divulged ; he,
however, acknowledged, that when young, he had been
a member of the brilliant corps de garde of Louis
XVIII., and having talents, rank and wealth, he might
reasonably have expected to become one of the leading
characters of his country. Marriage, that lottery of life
cither for good or ill, was the means of blighting the
whole of his future existence : having, in a moment of
ungovernable fury, shot the seducer of bis young and
lovely wife — ^who, to render the tragedy still more
revolting, was her confessor — without communicating
his intention to a single friend^ he fled France for ever,
and took his passage in a vessel bound from Marseilles
to Egypt
Like too many of his countrymen, impetuous and
imprudent, his mind embittered against Christianity,
on account of the injury he had received at the hands
of one of its imworthy ministers, on arriving at
I-
MACBDONIA. 57
Alexandria, he embraced Islambm. and took the
name of Hain EffcndL Patronized by Soliman Fkwha,
the young renegade spcedfly rose from one military
rank to another, till at length his talents and bravery
won for him the fiiendsUp of Mehemet AH, and his
son Ibrahim Pacha, who advanced him to the
colonelcy of one of the finest re^ments in the service.
Destiny, to use his own words, which seemed to play
with its victim, by allowing him to enjoy for a time the
sweets of Ufe, only to huri tum still deeper into the
abyss of misery, again wrought his downfall
His countryman, Soliman Pacha, envious of his
good fortune, and fearing a rival, became his enemy,
and determined by secret machinations to effect his
ruin, and for that purpose secretly contrived to circulate
the most injurious reports of his character ; among other
things, he was accused of peculation, and only exone-
rated himself from the charges by submitting his
conduct to the most rigorous investigation. Ever im-
petuous, his indignation against his calumniators knew
j no bounds: coiite qui codte, he chaDengcd several
. officers, who had been particularly active in propa-
j gatmg the reports to his prejudice ; but as duelling is
prohibited in Egypt imder penalty of death, his cartda^
I remained unanswered. This contempt for the laws ai
^ honoiu* irritated the high-souled Frenchman still moie^
i and whQe in this excited state, he met accidentally in
i the streets of Cairo, one of his accusers, an officer of
high rank in the household of Ibrahim Pbcha. Halil
upbraided his adversary in the most indignant tenna^
I
58 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
who retorted with equal asperity, words were succeeded
hy hlows : they fought, and the unlucky Frenchman
had again the misfortune to imbrue his hands in the
Uood of his enemy — ^his opponent fell dead at his feet .
To save lus life he had no alternative but flight, and it
required a swift dromedary to enable him to escape the
pursuit of the officers of justice.
Halil, however, succeeded in reaching Constantinople,
where, having been introduced to the newly-appointed
Viaer of Roumelia, he became his secretary and aid-de-
camp. On the death of his friend, the Vizier, he was
again compelled to seek some employment, when, after
filling several unimportant stations in the civil and
military department, the Government in acknowledg-
ment of his services have recendy given him the post
of Instructor in Chief to the Nizam, at Bittoglia, with
the pay of a Major in the Turkish service. The un-
lucky Halil, having now lost the fire and energy of
youth, divides his time between his official duties,
and in writing a history of the Turkish Empire, fi*om
its commencement down to the present day; and
should he live to publish it, I fed assured, fit>m the
industry and talent of the man, it will be found to be a
work of great interest; and being a good artist, he
intends to embellish it with plates, illustrative of the
costume and manners of the Osmanli, and of the
numerous tribes and races subject to their rule in
Europe and Asda.
Bittoglia, which takes its Turkish name, Toli
Monastir, fit)m a famous Greek monastery that for-
.' V
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t ;
• ;
;
• • 1
MACEDONIA. 59
merly stood here, is presumed by antiquarians to be
erected on the site of the ancient Heradea. It is the
seat of the Vizier of Roumefia and two Facbas, dvil
and military, and said to contain fifty thousand inha-
bitants.
The modem public buildings, consisting of the
cavahy and infantry barracks, the hospital, the palace
of the Vizier, and those of the other P^as^ impart
to Bittoglia a European aspect; while the enormous
bazaar, the ntunerous mosques, narrow streets, and
wooden houses, are all completdy Turkish. The n^id
rolling Monastir-sou, that traverses the town in various
branches, contributes much to its salubrity; and the
number of caravans of camels, mules, and horses, con-
stantly passing through it, is a decidve proof of the
commercial activity of the inhabitants. The Spanish
Jews settled here are said to be very wealthy, and to
enjoy certain privileges granted them, when they first
sought refuge in this country fit>m the intolerance of
bigotted Sp^; these, with Armenians, Zinzars and
Greeks, engross the entire trade of the town. The
remsdnder of the inhabitants are composed of Rayahs,
and a few hundred Osmanli and Amouts.
I observed a greater quantity of English merdiandize
here, than in any other town in European Turkqr ; the
cutiery was prindpally of Austrian manu&cture, and
execrably bad. I cannot but think that our Birmingham
and Sheffield manufacturers would find here a profitable
market for their wares, particulariy forks and spoons of
British silver, as the Turks are daily becoming more
60 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
accustomed to their use. The merchants regretted
there was no English agent settled here, and were of
opinion that the appointment of one would consider-
ably increase the sale of British manufactures, there
bemg none nearer than Salonica, on the JEgean Sea.
The most interesting personage I met mth among
the Turks at Bittoglia, was Moustapha Bey, the
Colond of a regiment of the Nizam, just arrived. On
hearing from Achmet Pacha, to whom I was indebted
for much kindness, that an English traveller was in the
town, he sent me an invitation to dinner, written in as
good French, and the note as neady folded, as if I had
received it in Pyuria.
Moustapha Bey, who was very rich, spared no
expense to give us an excellent dinner. Our party
consisted of his Highness the Vizier, the Scheick-Islam
of the department, two Pachas, HalQ Effendi, and
several distinguished military and ci\nl officers of the
town. The entertainment was given in the garden,
where an elegant tent was erected, and gaily decorated
for the occa^on. In the arrangement of the dinner
there was an approach to European customs, for we
had diairs, knives, forks and spoons. Before we sat
down, each guest went through the usual ceremony of
waslung the hands ; for this purpose, he was presented
vntii a plated copper basin fiUed with water, and a
towd, by the servants in attendance. We had an endless
number of dishes, which, after being merdy tasted by
each person, were removed, to be replaced by others.
There was nothing drank during dinner, not even water ;
I1AC8DONIA. ffl
but on retiring to the prirate ^nrtment of the Bey
urith a few of his intimate friends, wc had dumpagne,
and sereral of the choicest wines of Greece and Italy,
while those who remained in the tents consoled them-
selves hy drinking copious draughts of raki. The en-
tertuament concluded, after washing the hands, with a
cup of strong black coffee without sugar, and the etenul
tchibouque.
Moustapha Bey was altogether a remarkable man, in
accomplishments far superior to any Mahometan I ever
met with ; he spoke the French, Italian, and Russian
languages — the latter fluendy, and with the accent oi a
native of Russia ; in fad, there was a mystery about the
early youth and £imily of the Bey. who, in addition to
bi'ing considered veiy wealthy, was highly educated, a
drcumstaacc none of bis iricnds could &thom, not even
Halil, whose inquiring spirit generally made lum ac-
quainted vrith the history of every man of note he canw
in contact with. He was supposed to have been by
birth a Caucasian, and to have served in the Russian
army, and from some resemblance to the Emperor
Napoleon, in form and features, he usually went by that
name among his comrades. He appeared to be mtensely
interested in his profession, 8ubscril>ed to several scieD-
tiGc periodicals of Western Europe, which might be
seen with a profusion of andent and modem militaiy
woriis lying on the tables of his apartroenL
In every epocb of the history of Macedonia, Bitto-
glia and its beautiAil jdam has been the theatre of
songiunary contests; here the Greek and the Roman
62 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
oombatted long and fiercely, the one for independence
and the other for empire ; here the hordes of Northern
Europe, the Goths and Vandals, encamped and ravaged
its rich dties and towns; and here the Servians
triumphed over tbe Byzantines, and drove them to
seek safety within the strong walls of Constantinople,
when their Czar added that of Krai of Macedonia to
his other numerous titles, and maintained their conquest
tin the advent of the warlike hordes of the shepherd
Othman. During these dreadful contests, Bittoglia
was frequently destroyed and as often rebuilt; the
natural advantages of the situation, fine climate and '
rapid river, ever indudng man to setde and make it
his place of abode.
At the time of the Turkish invasion Bittoglia was a
flourishing town, fiunous for the number of its churches
and the lai^est monastery in Macedonia. These were
entirely destroyed by the infuriated Turks, in revenge
for the long and obstinate defence made by the inhabit-
ants ; who, headed by the clergy, had converted the
monastery and churches into fortresses. The loss of
the fine library of manuscripts, written by the earliest
divines of the Christian Church, of which the monastery
was so jusdy proud, is much to be deplored ; stQl, as
the conqueror, Mahomet II., was a great patron of
literature, it is the opinion of many persons that he
caused them to be conveyed to Constantinople, and
that they are still preserved among the archives of the
TWkish empire.
It would appear, fit>m the ruins of broken coliunns
MACEDONIA. 63
and hifls of rubbish overgrown with herbage, that the
old town was built on a declivity of the adjoining
mountain ; in the present day Bittogha is not fortified
it b merely used as a military station for a large army,
ever ready to take the field agwist the mountmneers of
Albania, if they should have suffident hanUhood to
make a descent upon the plains of Macedonia. In
1 830, Bittoglia was the scene of one of those homble
massacres that characterized the baibarous rule of the
Turk even at that recent epoch, and to whidi we shall
have occasion to allude more in detail when we get to
Albania. During our wanderings in the town, Halil
Effendi pointed out to me the spot where it was per-
petrated by command of Mehmet Reschid, then Grand
Vizier. There stands the kiosk where he sat, and
exulted over the murder of four hundred chieftains
and Beys of Albania, who fell the victims of a treacheiy
unparalleled in the annals of political crime ; and though
it enabled the Government to introduce its system of
European reform, a deed that plunged Uie entire countiy
into grief and mourning has not been forgotten, and
has given rise to those repeated outbreaks which are
gradually weakening the resources of the Ottoman
empire, Mahometan arrayed against Mahometan in
deadly strife. Even while I am now writing, Albania
is again in revolt; and Bittoglia has become a vast
camp filled with the Nizam, and armed bands of
Amouts and Bosnians, to be employed against their
brethren in race and creed on the other ade of the
mountains.
64 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Bittoglia — Moontain traveUing— Singular lake —
Turbaned graTe-stouea — Aspect of the country — Inhabitants
— BiTOuac — Numerous carayan — Visit from the mountaineers
— Lake of Presha — Magnificent scenery — Arriyal at Ocrida —
Hospitable reception from Mr. Roby — Description of Ocrida
and its romantic lake — PrimitiTe boats — ^Visit to the Monas-
tery of Schir Naoun — The monks — A model monastery — A
visit to All, the Goremor of Ocrida — ^The magic wand — A
fishing party with Ali — Dr. Schuck — ^Turkish pic-nic.
We had already remained six days in Bittoglia, and
Georgy, who was slowly recovering from a severe attack
of intermittent fever, partly from his dread of going
among the cut-throats of Albania, as he termed them,
obstinately refused to accompany me if I persisted in
extending my tour across the mountains. This reso-
lution of my kiraidji entailed upon me much vexation
and inconvenience. He was honest and faithful, and
from long travelling together, we had become attached
to each other ; but Kismet, as the Turks would say,
stood my friend. I was saved from the delay and
MACEDONIA. 65
annoyance of being obliged to procure a pw of horses
and another guide by my friends, who having intro-
duced me to a Greek merchant, Constantine Roby, he
[ J kindly offered me the use of his horses, and the csdort
of his caravan as far as Ocrida, with a letter of intro-
duction to his &ther, a resident in that town. I had
also the gratification of being accompanied by Signor
* Roberti, Halil Effendi, and two other gentlemen of the
town, to an interesting lake in a deep gorge of the
mountains, where the snow never melts during the
greatest heat of summer.
On leaving Bittoglia, we followed the rocky banks
of the Monastir-sou, through a deep defile which led
up the precipitous side of the mountain, offering at
every angle in the pathway some frightful chasm, each
more terrible than the other ; it was a foretaste of what
we were to expect in the Skela (liorse-pathways) of
Albania, the most execrable and dangerous for the
traveller in European Turkey. Having already served
a long apprenticeship to this sort of travelling, I had
become callous to any apprehension of danger ; but my
friends, who had been accustomed to easy equestrian
promenades on the plains of Bittoglia, were much
alarmed for the safety of their necks.
At length, after a toilsome ascent of nearly four
hours, we reached the summit of a rock, beneath which
lay the lake, surrounded by a chsun of rocks, jagged
and torn, as if they had been rent asunder by some
convulsion of nature ; at the same time we enjoyed a
. splendid view of BittogUa and its beautiful pldn, en-
VOL. n. F
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66 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
drded by a chain of mountains^ and the defile leading
to Sdomca on the Mgeim Sea. The lake is small and
said to be fathomless, and so cold, that when the hand
is immersed in it, the iq^ diiU is felt in every part of
the body. People who suffer from intermittent and
other fevers of that description, make tins lake their
resort during summer; and I was informed, rarely
faSl to recover in a few weeks ; they drink the water
and perform copious ablutions. We found a ban and
a coffee-house, with a few temporary huts for the
accommodation of the invalids.
On parting from our friends, who made up their
minds to pass the night at the comfortless ban near
the lake, rather than run the risk of breaking their necks
twice in the same day by returning to Bittoglia, we
continued our route to Ocrida. The continual ascent
and descent of these mountsdn ridges, with their im-
penetrable forests, jutting rocks and deep defiles, which
form a natural boundary between Macedonia and
Albama, and the only means of communication in
these parts between the two countries, must be highly
dangerous for a hostile army to cross. They are, in
fiu^t, a connecting link with the Pindus on one side,
and with the more elevated chain we described when
travelling in Upper Albama in those districts of Prizren,
Ipek and Gousnee, and which runs through Tcher-
n^ra, on to the Adriatic, thus endrding the whole
of Albania in a wall of rock on its land frontier, with
the sea on the other, as a boundary. The Turks in
their endeavours to destroy the nationality of a people.
MACEDONIA.
67
may change the name of certain districts and indude
them in those of another province; but the long ridges
of mountains by wluch Albama is endrded, have
traced upon its soil the lines of a natural map, whidi
no hand of man can anse, whOe the inhabitants,
whether Christian or Mahometan, are distinguished by
the same traits, customs, manners and language.
The mountdn district through whidi we were now
travdling, induded in the government of the Vuder of
RoumeUa, was long the battle-ground between the
armies of the Crescent and the Cross; here the hero
Scanderb^, at the head of his fierce mounbdneers, de«
stroyed one infidd army after another, whidi would
appear incredible, were we not aware of the danger an
enemy incurs in passing over a country Kke this, so
strong in natural defences, and inhabited by a people
who have lost nothing of the valour of their ancestCH^
We are reminded of the contest by merting here and
there with dusters of andent turbaned grave-stones,
indicating that the ground must never be disturbed
where the blood of the fidthful has been shed. However
barren these mountains may appear, on viewing their
naked rocky pinnades from a distance, they contain
within their bosom many beautiful and fertile vall^,
gorges and defiles, produdng luxuriant crops of grain ;
the sides of the mountmns are also tderaUy wdi
w9oded, and interspersed here and there with blooming
meadows and green fidds, on whidi we see herds of
sheep, goats, and even small oxen grazmg; and if we
may judge irom the number of hamlets, the population
p 2
68 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
must be considerable ; but tliis is one of the peculiarities
of these provinces, bo long the theatre of devastating
war and Turkish misrule, and which induced the indus-
trious Rayah to leave the plain and seek a home in the
mountsun, where he might live vnth his family in com-
parative security.
We encamped for the night in a londy glen not far
distant from the Lake of Presba, where we found a
caravan had already taken up their quarters, so that
with the addition of our party, we amounted altogether
to nearly a hundred men ; this was the most numerous
assemblage of kiraidjis, with their packs of merchandize,
I had yet met with in these provinces ; and truly it was
an interesting scene to see so many blazing fires in
various parts of the glen, surrounded by members of
every nationality in the Turkish empire, each displaying
in his language, dress and manners, some characteristic
of his race; and in the midst of them, a solitary
Englishman, placing full reliance in their good faith and
honesty ; and though I had not now my old friend
Georgy to say something in favour of his Ingleski
Gospodin, I was everywhere treated by these wild-
looking men with the greatest courtesy and kindness,
who thought themselves highly honoured if I sat down
and eat, drank or smoked the tchibouque with them, or
condescended to tell them something about the manners
and customs of Frangistan.
The situation selected for our nightly bivouac com-
bined many advantages ; we had sufficient pasture for
our horses, and the finest spring water, in addition to
i
1
MACEDONIA. 69
being overshadowed by the leafy branches of a fine grore
of linden and beech trees. On arrinng at one of these
I halting places of the caravan, we fed indmed to fbr-
! give the Turk his numerous sins against dvifizatioiiy
when we remember it is to his munificence we owe
them. The same hand that erected the fountain to
• quench the thirst of the traveller^ planted the trees to
shelter him from the scorching rays of the son, and
gave the surroimding land to produce heibage for hit
horses. In the present instance, the Turkish inscriptioii
on the marble slab of the fountain, told us that we
were indebted for all this to the piety of a repentant
sinner, who, having conferred so great a benefit on the
wayworn traveller, hoped the charitable deed would
open to him the gates of Ptoulise.
Hitherto we had not seen any symptoms of an in-
surrectionary movement among the moimtainecrs ; the
pandour reposed imdisturbed in his karaouL played on
his pipe, or smoked his tchibouque ; the shepherd was
as tranquil as his bleating charge ; and men, womea
and children, were seen quietly at work in th^ fidda.
It is true, we were visited in the evening by a party
i of tall mountaineers, armed to the teeth; their sun-
^ biunt complexions, fieiy eyes, tattered jackets, and
not over dean phistan, imparting to them somewhat of
a bandit appearance; but so fiir from their mission
bdng warlike, they had merdy come to exdiange bread,
cheese and honey, for salt, tobacco and gunpowder.
' The stars were still twinkling in the heavens, when I
; was awoke horn a pleasant dream by the loud ** ha 1
\
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70 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
ho ! bu 1 Ugh ! ugh !" of the kiraidji, calling his horses,
who had strayed into the depths of the forest in search
of pasture : it was curious to see the sagadous animals
gaDoping with all their might towards the bivouac^ and
eadi singling out his own master, certain as he was of
being rq;aled with a substantial meal of com. After
sundry greetings in all the ^alects in use in the Turkish
empire, we here parted from the greater number of our
companions, who were bound for BiUx)glia and the other
laige towns of Macedonia and Thessaly.
The weather was delightful, and our horses invigo-
rated by rest, food, and the cool morning breeze
made rapid progress. On approaching the Lake of
IVesba, the first gleam of day began to crimson the
east, partially lighting up the majestic mountain which
lay between us and the plains of Ocrida. As we ad-
vanced, and the sun shot forth its rays, it was beautiful
to see the various tints and shades that so rapidly suc-
ceeded each other on the pinnacled rocks above us— a
glorious contrast with the fleecy folds of mist that
hovered around, at one time veiling the entire land-
scape, then affording a glimpse of the wildest sylvan
scenery, and again disclosing a frightful abyss. We
had also the fi-agrance of a thousand aromatic herbs,
the leafy labyrinth of a forest, the growth of centuries,
intermingled with rocks of no great elevation, shooting
up in the most varied and fantastic forms; and not
unfiequently, at this early hour, a stealthy wolf, a
bear, a lynx, a deer, or some other wild animal, burst
through the cover, and bounded across our path.
IIACEDONU. 71
calling forth from my compaoions, if they were of evil
omen, a hasty prayer to the Panagia to protect them,
and much crossing and handling of amulets, u an
antidote ogunst any iB luck during the remunder of
the day.
On leaving the Lake of Presba, instead of taking the
more drcuitous, and easy route, by way of the little
town of Resna, and which the kiratdjia usuaDy follow
in rainy weather, we ascended the steep sides of the
mountain through the bed of a dried-up torrent, scnio-
bling up, as best we might, with the additional labour of
bong now and then obliged to puU our horses after us,
tin we attained the summit — a romantic [dateau, ver-
dant as a lawn, and endrdcd by a chain of rocks ; here
we encamped under the shade of a duster of fir'trees,
to rest our horses, and prepare the noon-day meaL
While my companions were uigaged with their culinary
operations, I made my way up the steep sides of a
pyramid of rock, whence I behdd a most magnificent
prospect : I had crossed heights of far greater deration,
and enjoyed Gir more extensive views from the moun-
tains of European Turkey, but none more beauti^ aor
more romantic than this, embelHshed as it was by that
gem of all lakes, Ocrida. There was a fine plun, with
its fertili^ng rivers ; the lake and town of Ocrida, widi
its ruined fortress ; meadows and pastures, with their
flocks and herds ; hills covered with the rich foliage of
the vine, the plane, and the caress; the whole sur-
rounded by a bdt of mountains, rising up into a chaos
of rocky precipices in aD thdr varied and grotesque
72 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
forms^ here and there interspersed with the dark foliage
of the forest
In the cool of the evening, we descended the long
dedivity of the mountain which leads to the plain of
Ocrida, through a labyrinth of glens, gorges, ravines
and precipices, with their cascades and virgin forests,
and just as the sun had warned man from his laboiur
and the birds to their nests, we entered the town of
Ocrida, where I received a hearty welcome from my
hospitable friend, Mr. Roby.
The town of Ocrida, partly built on the banks of the
lake ; and partly grouped around a solitary rock, Mount
Fiera, crowned with the ruins of a citadel, takes its
name from a Greek word, Acri (a place strong and high).
The population consists of a few thousand Christians
of the Latin and Gra^k Churches, and a Turkish
garrison of a few hundred men. The Greeks tell us
that Acri was founded by Cadmus, and that it had also
the honour of giving birth to the Emperor Justinian,
who made it occasionally his residence, and adorned it
with churches, aqueducts, and other public buildings.
The Church of St. Sophia, in tolerable preservation, is
now converted into a magazine for the use of the
Turkish troops, and the ruins of another in the summit
of Mount Piera, are all that remain to attest the muni-
ficence of the Emperor towards his native town. St.
Sophia is not remarkable for the beauty of its archi-
tecture; but the columns in the interior, with their
exquisite carving, sufficiently indicate that they were
chiselled when art had attained a high degree of per-
ALBANIA. 78
fectioD, and probably bad adornfd a Pugao temple of
tbeGre^L
Situated at a height of at least two thousand feet
above the level of the set, the c^mate of Ocrida ia
highly salubrious ; this, with its picturesque mountains,
beauUful lake, and fertile plain, rendera it one of the
most de^rable towns as a residence in Eiuropean
Turkey; but like evrry other place where the race
of Othman have established their withering rule, we
cveiywhero see around us the finest lands — a desert;
and the town itsdf a mere assemblage of huts lying
in the midst of the ruins of centuries. I have waD>
dered in many lands, admired some oi the most
picturesque districts in the Old and the New Wold,
yet I cimnot recal to my recollection any that surpassed,
in ronkantic beauty, Ocrida and its durming lakei,
Let the leader fancy a sheet of water, neariy seven
leagues in length, and from one to two in breaddi, its
shelving banks, here and there ri^g to a height of
more than four thousand feet, offering the most de-
lightful sites for the erection of towns and villages,
without a single marsh in its vionity, except at
Strouga, a couple of leagues distant, whexe its waten
flow into the River Drin.
Transparent as a sheet of ciystal, the andcnt Greeks
gave to the I^ke of Ocrida the name of Lydinis, and
teO us, that in thdr day its beautiful banks were the
abode of Paa and his sh^herds. The lake also
abounds vrith fish, which without any exaggeration,
may be seen at a depth of from fifty to sbcty feet
74 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
They are not only in great abundance, but &r superior
to any I ever met with in an inland lake, particulaiiy
the salmon-trout of the finest flavour ; this is owing to
the number of filtered torrents, cold as ice, that flow
into the lake through subterranean channels in the
bosom of the adjoining mountains, and traverse its
whole length in a strong current fit)m the Convent
of Schir Naoun to the River Drin, at Strouga. These
torrents are sud to commumcate with the Lake of
Presba, which we noticed whfle traveling on the
other side of the mountain.
In every epoch of the history of Albania, Ocrida,
with its dtadel, which commands the lake, the plains,
and the various defiles leading into the interior of the
mountains, was considered a place of great military
importance. Over the principal gate we can still trace
a Roman inscription; snA in the fortifications and
crumbling towers, indications of the architecture of the
Byzantines, Goths, Normans, Bulgarians and Servians,
whose chiefs made it their residence, and added to the
original defences some fort or tower ; but the inert race
of Othman, who neither plant nor sow, build nor
repair, have left it in the same ruinous state th^ found
it after the capitulation of the Christian warriors of
Albania under Scanderi)^.
The art of boat building is still as primitive here as
in the days of the first patriarch. A canoe, scooped
out of the trunk of a gigantic oak or plane-tree, is
the only thing in the shape of a boat to be found at
Ocrida; they arc, however, not to be despised, since
ALBANIA. 76
we contrived in onOi with the help of a pur of stout
Albanian fishermen of the town as rowers^ to navigate
the lake as far as the Convent of Sdiir Naoiin* We
were accompanied by Dr. Schucky a German sui^geon
in the service of the Ottoman Porte, stationed here
with his regiment, and a young priest firom one of the
numerous stifles or monasteries in Vienna, Mis^onary
to the Latin Miriditi in the adjoining mountains.
Although ow canoe did not move with great vdocity,
, ^ it had the advantage of being perfectly safe, water-
tight, and sufficiently large to oontdn our party ; and
it would be most unjust to our beautiful lake and its
magnificent scenery, not to say that we heartily en-
joyed our voyage. We had the additional pleasure of
catching some splendid salmon-trout, a dainty dish to
present to the monks when we got to Schir Naoun. I
took them with rod and line, to the utter astomsh-
ment of a crowd of Albanian mountdneers, who never
saw the feat performed before, and who kept staring
at us as if they had seen a wizard.
The monastery of Schir Naoun (the holy nun),
romantically situated on the eastern bank of the lake, is
one of the finest edifices of the kind in European
Turkey. It dates its foundation from the reign of the
Emperor Justinian, who endowed it most mimificently
with lands and other privileges, all of which the
Turkish Government have allowed it to retun, in con-
sideration of the monks appropriating a part of the
building as an hospital, and taking under thdr care a
certain number of in^'alid soldiers and others of
76 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
whatever sect or religious persuasion. The good fathers
have so well and fsdthfully performed their part, that
Schir Naoun is held in Ugh &vour hy the Mahometans,
whose high dignitaries not unfrequendy resort here for
the re-establishment of their health. The monks
assured us, they had at that time under their care
upwards of seventy patients, which might be doubled
in cases of extreme urgency. Their own brotherhood,
with the novices, number about sixty. Medicine, in all
its branches, is taught among them, and practised as a
profession ; they are also skilful agriculturists, gardeners,
and medianics of every description ; their farms are the
best cultivated in the country, and their peasants seem-
ingly contented and happy. Altogether, our visit to Schir
Naoun afforded us much pleasure. We were most hos-
pitably entertained and lodged for the night, and the
establishment may be regarded as a model institution of
what a monastery ought to be in a half- civilized country
like this, where a commimity of well-educated, well-
intentioned men, having retired from the world, devote
their time and energies to the service of the suffering and
the distressed, in addition to introducing among the people
reforms and improvements in their various agricultural
pursuits. At the same time, we must not withhold
from the Turks our approbation, who for so many
centuries have allowed the good fathers to enjoy their
privileges and revenues undisturbed.
On returning to Ocrida, we found our host,
Mr. Roby, and his family in great tribulation. Ali,
the governor of the town, a relative of the famous
I i
ALBANIA. 77
AH Pacha, of Jannina, had sent lus kavaas and jk
to make inqmiy about the Eng^sh traveller, and
menaced the poor people with lus highest displeasure
for not having announced my arrivaL The fiust was
this, however much the testy old man might have fdk
annoyed at an Englishman having been seen in the
I town without paying his respects to him, his curiosity
was aroused by the exaggerated reports circulated by
this superstitious people respecting the operations of a
1 certain little magic wand which the stranger had so
- successfully employed in charming the fish of the lake.
! Accompanied by Dr. Sdiuck, we therefore lost no time
\ in presenting oiu^ves at the konak of the governor ;
* and, as we expected, after the usual ccremomes were
over, a hint or two was cleverly thrown out by the
Kadi (for a Tiu'k in authority must never appear
ignorant of anything known to man under heaven)
respecting our excursions on the lake; this led to an
explanation, which, increasing in interest, an appoint-
ment was actually made by Ali, for a fishing party the
following day.
Our fishing excursion, however, was conducted with
so much state, as to be quite an event in the history of
the littie town of Ocrida. In addition to Ali, the
governor, who was habited in the uniform of a
Bimbashi of the Nizam-y-Djedid, we had the Insbashi
and Moulasin, captain and lieutenant of the troops
stationed here ; there was also the Iman in his ecde-
siastical turban of green, the Kadi with his insignia of
office, together with several inferior officers of the town.
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78 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
whose rank pennitted them to approach the dread
representative of the Sultan's authority at Ocrida.
These were followed by a host of white and bkck
servants, bearing tchibouques of great length, and
colossal bags filled with tutoun (tobacco), while the rear
of the procession was brought up by mules, laden with
tents, provisions, and all the paraphernalia necessary to
the comfort of a Turkish dignitary. At length, having
sdected a pretty retired spot on the banks of the lake,
shaded by the magnificent foliage of the oak and the
plane-tree, preparations were made to pass the day.
Quick as a flash of lightning, the tents were erected
and the carpets spread ; at the same time a number of
jis were employed at a dbtance in lighting fires, when
having regaled ourselves with the usual stimulant of a
Turk, coffee and the tchibouque, the operation of
charming the trout commenced. Ali, feeling himself
sufficientiy initiated in the secret of plying the magic
wand, led the way. But, alas! however subtie he
might be as a ruler over men, he was entirely at &ult
when he had to do with so wary a subject as a trout.
Splash followed splash, till the good old man, losing all
patience, resigned his task to the hands of his next
neighbour, the Kadi, who also failing, passed it to the
Iman, and Grom him to the gallant Insbashi, till havmg
made the round of the Turkish dignitaries, it fell into
the hands of Dr. Schuck, who possessing some know-
ledge of the art of angling, swept his line; but in
doing so, hooked the fat Iman, a mishap that
drew down upon him a hearty roar of laughter.
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ALBANIA. 79
i which even Mahometan gravity and decorum oould
I . not repress.
I We had, however, some capital sport, and notwith-
standing the great heat of the noonday son, so unpropi-
tious to an angler, succeeded in tempting a laige salmon-
trout, full ten pounds in wright, from beneath the shade
of a projecting crag. To the intense interest oi all oar
friends, he fought long for life and fi'eedom ; eveify now
and then, as he approached the shore, scared by ao
many people, rushing out again into deep water with die
velocity of an arrow shot from a bow, till at length,
completely beaten, we landed him with perfect ease.
The feat in reality was trifling, and wluch any Hig^pfe
of Isaac Walton might accompUsh equally wdl, but
these people, who had never seen fish caught before
with rod and line, expressed the most unbounded
admiration. It, however, proves the interest these
people have begun to take in the customs and manners
of the European nations, and their desire to ft^^rpilnte
themselves to our social habits, and break down the
barrier that had so long severed them from all inter-
course with their more civilized neighbours. It ie
hardly necessary to add, that we enjoyed the sumptuous
entertainment d la champetre of our hospitable host,
Ali, and parted excellent friends.
UO TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER IV.
Imperial fisheries of the Sultan — Defile of the Drin — Ascent of
theMiriditi Mountains — Hospitality of the inhabitants — Aspect
of the country — Arrival at the Djeta of a Miriditi chieftain —
Sketch of Hamsa, the chief-— His singular history — Austrian
and Italian missionaries — Fanaticism of the Miriditi — Stefa,
my kiraidji — Some account of him — The versatility of his
religious opinions — ^The pass of Keupris — Dangerous travel-
ling— Rencontre with a party of Albanian rebels — Ancient
bridge over the Scoumbi — Arrival at Elbassan — Description
of the town and its inhabitants — ^Thc Albanian tribes — ^Their
political tendencies — Some account of the independent tribes
of the Miriditi — Depopulation of Albania.
For want of space, we are compelled to conclude our
sketches of Ocrida and its beautiful lake, which if
Monsieur Voltaire had seen, he never would have said,
when writing upon Geneva, " Mon lac est le premier
lac du monde !" And now, having secured another
kiraidji, accompanied by my friend, the Missionary from
Vienna, we set out for the mountain home of those
independent tribes of Albania, the Miriditi, the worthy
ALBANIA. 81
priest assuring me that we should oot only meet with
a hospitable reception from his co-r^gioiutts, hot find
a diief there who spoke Hie English language flueadj.
On leaving Ocrida, our route lay alimg the baolcs of
the lake, orer mcadcws like a bowling-fircen, till we
came to the little town of Strouga, distant about two
leagues ; here, in compliance with a previous invitatioii,
we passed the reminder of the day and mght it the
house of a very worthy man, Demetrius MQadio, who
bad been to Italy and Trieste, and spoke the Itafiao
language Buently. Our short stay ba« afforded us an
opportunity of visiting die imperial fisheries ; and how-
ever dum^y erected, they yield the Sultan in annual
revenue of a hundred thousand piastres. Hen we also
plied our fistung-rod, and succeeded even better in
charming the trout than in the lake of Ocrida ; ihey
are smaller in aze, but &r more numerous.
After passing the bridge at Strougi, we followed die
banks of the Tzema Drina (Black Drin), to distingdsh
it from the White Drin, which, riang in the Alpine
district of the Scardus, in Upper Albania, meets the
Black Drin at Stana, and forms one river. About
a league, or a league and a half from Strouga, the
defile of the Drin commences, so famous during tbe
wars of the Turks and the Christians in the time ct
Scanderbeg, and sud to be the most fomudahle and
dangerous to the advance of an enemy of any in
European Tiu-key; and tnily the wild aspect of die
landscape before us — the river dashing through its
narrow bed, tsxdasei within piles ot toda shooting up
VOL, IL O
82 TRAVELS IN BUROPRAN TURKRT.
tin their summits are lost in the douds, rendered slill
more sombre by the dark foliage of trees springing out
of eveiy fissure, might suffice to appal the stoutest
heart in a position that offered no security firom the
attack of an enemy in possession of the heights, who
had only to hurl down the loose Augments of rocks to
crush every living thing beneath them ; and this is the
only entrance from the vast basin of Ocrida into the
mountain retreat inhabited by those independent tribes
of Albania called the MiriditL
We passed through a couple of villages inhabited
by the Mahometan Miriditi, who to distinguish them-
selves from their Christian brethren occupying the
higher regions of the mountiun, call themselves the
r^eghL We will say nothing about their religious
feelings, but I thought there was more respect displayed
towards my companion, the missionary, who appeared
to be no stranger to them, than was consistent with
the usual bearing of good Mahometans.
On leaving the defile of the Drin, so aptly named
by the Turks the Kara-Drina, we ascended, or rather
climbed up, the steep sides of the mountain through
a deft in the rocks, in rainy weather the bed of a
cataract, where it required all oiu* care to steady the
feet of our trembling steeds. At length we got to the
summit of a beautiful plateau, with a neat village sur-
rounded by cultivated fields, and flocks of sheep and
goats browsing on the surrounding slopes ; the small
white chapels with Latin crosses, sufficiently indicated
that we were now within what may be called the terri-
I
J
I
■i -^
ALBANIA. {
tory of the Latin Miriditl Here we remuned fbr H
night, the hospitable mountaineers providing eveiy neoe
sary that could conduce to our oomfiart.
On continuing our route through this sedaA
mountain region, I was agreeably surprized to see
succession of these little hamlets vrith their ofdian
and fields, in which msuze and bariey a[qpeared d
principal productions; indeed, every spot capable <
culture was tilled with the most indefatigable indinli
and every rivulet artifidally turned and <fivided into
I succession of tiny streamlets fbr the purpose of irng
tioo. In a few favoured situations thqf grew a EU
tobacco for th^ own use; and here and there in
field or two, supported by terraces constructed of fin^
ments of the rock, the vine and the walnut were so
• growing in the richest luxuriance ; still, the great sou
. 2 of wealth to these mountaineers consists in their floe
J of sheep and goats, together with the produce of t
apiary. Forests of the noble oak also are seen oo
sionally feathering the sides of the mountain ; but
a country without roads or navigable rivers, tfaey yk
l. I no profit whatever to the inhabitants, except what tli
convert to their own use.
. j From time to time we found the mountains fardk
: and split into narrow, deep gorges, as if by an eart
quake, between which there was no connexion, bat
a species of bridge constructed of trunks of trees, d
closing a yawning abyss beneath frightful to bdui
To cross one of these, without any railing or suppc
i I required no littie nerve ; yet, if we could (fivest oi
f r ^ ^
84 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
sdves of the fear, so natural to man, knowing that the
slightest felse step hurls him to destruction^ there b in
reality no more danger to be apprehended, than if they
were thrown over a rivulet a few feet in depth. With
man habit is second nature; but we did not find it
so with our horses. Our greatest difficulty was in
getting them over with their unwieldy pack-saddles,
not always securdy fiistened or properly balanced ; and
notwithstanding all their good qualities and sure-footed-
ness in mountain travelling, and some portion of
courage, not one of them would cross these bridges
without being blindfolded, with a man at the head of
each horse, and another to steady the saddle ; and then
the moment their feet touched the wooden plank they
trembled so violently, that it required all the endearing
epithets of the kiraidji to comfort them during the
passage, lest they should actually from fear and weak-
ness tumble down the precipice. Sometimes when we
gained the summit of one of these mountains, and the
horizon opened to the vision, we saw around us a
boundless labyrinth of gorges and deep defiles inter-
secting each other, overcapped by a chaos of rocks,
torn, broken and split, with here and there a naked
peak still streaked with snow, running up to a height
of between five and six thousand feet. How great
must be the love of freedom inherent in man when
he has sought such a country as this for his habita-
tion!
At length we arrived at a small but beautiful plateau,
in the centre of which lay a village, a little Eden, sur-
rounded by orchards, com-fields and meadows, throi^
which was roaring a torrent od its way to swdl the
waters of the Scoumbi. This was the Djeta, or prin-
cipal readence of the chieftain and his dan&men. It
was evident from the reccpUon we met with, the dis-
duuge of Gre-anns, and the number of kilted wairiors
who came to welcome us, that my friend, the mia-
sioDary, had heralded our viut by an avatU etmrier.
We were at once conducted to the kouk of the dueC
a stone building surmounted by a spcdea of forti-
fied towo", sufficiently strong to resist a disdiarge of
musketry, with port-holes and a galleiy smTOun<fiiig
it We found the entire household engaged cooking
in the open air around sc^-eral large fires. In one {Jaee
a whole sheep roasting on a woodan spit, gave endenoe
that the princnpal men of the tribe had been invited
to enjoy the feast
Hamsa, the chief, who looked the very personifica-
tion of a mountain warrior, although past the meridian
of life, was still a splendid fellow. In eariy youth be
had the misfortune to kill the son of a neighbouring
chi^ during one of their oft-recurring faidas (domestic
quarrds) ; this obliged him to seek safety in fUght, w
these people still regard vengeance for blood that is
shed as one of the first laws of nature, and in this
nnther the humanizing precepts of the futh they [vo>
fess, nor the exhortations of their dcrgy, have been
able to effect a reformation. In vain lie sought an
asylum among the Austrians at Cattaro; revenge
tradtcd him thither; and his life would have paid the
86 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
penalty, had he not crossed the sea to Corfu. Here^
having changed his name, and hy some employment or
commerce contrived to amass a little fortune, he was
enaUcd to pay such a fine as satisfied the relatives of
the deceased, and permitted him to return with safety
and independence to his tribe. He spoke a mixture
of the EngUsh and Italian languages intelligible to
me. Tlus was fortunate as I did not understand the
Albanian, except such words as were derived firom the
Turkish, Slavonian or Latm. He mentioned the name
of Sir Thomas Maitland, and of several other distin-
gmshed ofiicers quartered there during his exile ; and
he must have been well treated, for he lauded the
character of the English to the seventh heaven; a
people, he said, the most generous and highly-^fked,
who knew everything, and did everything better than
any other; concluding his eulo^um, by hoping the
day was not far distant when he might hail them as
the rulers of Albania I
Hamsa's admiration for the English did not evapo-
rate in empty declamation. During his sojourn in the
land of the stranger he had learned much, the bene-
fidal effects of which were visible, so far as the influence
of his example and means extended. The huts of his
clansmen were neater, and their gardens and fields
better cultivated, than those of their neighbours ; he
had built a little church, and endowed a school with
land, where the youths of his dan received an educa-
tion suitable at least to their mode of life. Having
lost his wife, and bebg without childre*., he devoted
87
his tinie and eoagies to Uw services of his (
still he r^retted the loss of those ddigfats of & mora
civilized existence he had previously enjoyed, but the
love he bore to lus tribe and his native moontains,
prevailed over eveiy other consideration.
The &a misdonaiy who was accustomed to vint
Hamsa's tribe, was evidently a great &vourite; he
knew everybody, and was regarded by young and old
as a sunt He had brought with him a large ccflectiaD
of little wooden crudfixes, punted engravings of tb-
donnas, sunts and angels; these ha distributed most
liberally, accompanied by his benediction, among the
people, who received them with acclamations ctf ddigfat
and admiration: they had now in their possesion m
talisman, which must triumph over the Evil Onc^ anil
bring prosperity and happiness to their homes. " It is
weD," said Hamsa, turning to me with a grave counten-
ance, " you English have been better taught ; but these
poor, ^mple people would require a cenhuy beftne thcj
: could be brought to appreciate the ezceUence 6f the
i form of worship I have seen practised in your churdk
, at Corfu. Agam, their eternal feuds, and their diviwMi
j into so many opposing creeds — Latin, Greek and Maho-
; meton — each hatbg the other with all the bitterness of
J religious huiaticism, has been the cause of all our ev3*:
j were it not for this, we should long unce have driven
i forth the Osmanli, with thor debasing harritcb ; and
. Albania, with its mountuns, rich plains, valleys and sr^
J would have been indq>endent.
j " Although," continued the patriot; "in an Miriifiti
88 TRAVELS IN BUROFBAN TURKBY.
of the pure race of Scanderbeg, and enjoy here, thanks to
the fastnesses of our native mountains, and the bravery
of our people, a spedes of freedom ; yet our isolation
from an conuneroe with our brethren of the lowlands,
perpetuates our ignorance and fanatic hatred of every
other people and creed differing from ours, and exposes
us alike to the hostility of the Mahometans, and the
Slavonian and HeDemc Greeks. I did once entertsun
the hope," added Hamsa, ** while I remained an exile
among your people, of forming a union with our
brethren of the lowlands, the Ejc^hi, of whatever reli-
^ous persuasion. The attempt was made and failed :
Osmanli gold prevaDed, our leadef , Moustapha, Pacha
of Scutari, proved a traitor, and I have had to deplore
the loss of my only boy. The Osmanli, however, have
been agfun taught to respect our bravery, and a better
feeling has sprung up between the tribes of our race,
the Miriditi, of whatever rdi^ous persuasion.'*
It were to be wished that these £matic Romanists,
the Miriditi mountdneers, had a few more men among
them, possessing the same enlightened views as their
countrymen, Hamsa. I was much pleased in having
met with him, and regretted that I could not accept his
invitation, and prolong my stay at his koula, and
become more intimate with the manners and customs
of these interesting mountaineers. According to every
information we recdved, the insurrection of the Mus-
sulman inhabitants of Albania was increasing, which
determined me without loss of time to proceed towards
the sea-coast, and leave the country, if circumstances
M
ALBANU. 89
should so dictate. Here I also parted from my friend,
the missionary, and again set forth on my joumqr*
I was this time accompanied by a native of Mace-
donia, as a kiraidji ; he was an excellent fellow in his
way, spoke a litde Itafian, which, with hb own pataiSj
a mixture of Albanian, Slavonian, Greek, and Turldsh,
enabled us to understand each other. Among his other
qualifications, as a kiraidji, he was livdy and commu^
nicative, knew the country well, and the character of
the inhabitants, and how to avoid danger while travel-
ling through a land in so disorganised a state as
Albania; he was also full of anecdote, whether real
or imaginary, and among other things amused me
with accounts of the great antiquity of his own family,
I for Stefa was nothing less than a descendant of the
Macedonian Kings I
On leaving the village, Hamsa, and half a dozen of
his warriors, accompanied us on our route, a precaution
absolutely necessary among a people so suspicious of
strangers ; and, perhaps, there is no part of European
Turkey, in which the traveller incura so much danger
as in this mountain district If he travels in the cos*
tume of an Osmanli, he runs a fair chance of being
shot by the first half-wild Skipetar he meets with.
The heretical Greek is equally detested ; but as he is
considered a religious, not a political enemy, if he enters
the country he is left to die of starvation, for not a
single individual among these fanatic Romanists would
defile himself or his house, by ^ving food or shelter to
a man excommunicated by the Holy Latin Church,
90 TRiiVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
and only fit to herd with hrutes. From these dangers
and difficulties the Frank traveller is safe so long as he
remains among the Miriditiy who believe the Christian
world to consist only of Romanists and schismatic
Greeks; he must, however, be accompanied by a
Miriditi, to certify that he is not a spy. Again the
Frank traveller, who journeys through the country, has
another advantage, since he is certain to meet with
some Italian or German missionary, not very learned
in theology, but pleasant companions, who enjoy most
heartOy a good supper, and a bottle of wine, and Usten
with delight to the latest news of the great world they
have left.
Hamsa, although nearly seventy years of age, sat
his horse with all the firmness of a youthful warrior ;
for these people continue to the close of life to be
strangers to the decrepitude that is certain to overtake
the man who lives in the enjoyment of luxury. TTie
costume of the old chief, and indeed that of the inhabit-
ants of these mountains of either s^c, was similar to
that of those tribes of the same race, we already
described while travelling at Ipek and Prizren, on the
other side of the mountains of Upper Albania; the
many-plaited phistan, made of white calico, had a
singular and not unpicturesque effect, when they were
on horseback, and contrasted well with the crimson
vest, red fez, and long Arnout gun.
My kiraidji, Stefa, also wore the phistan and red fez,
but his braided jacket, which he usually hung over his
shoulder like that of a hussar, was dingy white, and
r
■
'
ALBANIA. 91
made of coarse wool His creed appeared to be that of
the Vicar of Bray, at all events, I never could make it
out satisfactorily ; among the Miriditi mountmneen he
vras a Romanist, and denounced the schismatic Greeks
as the dogs of all dogs, the greatest sinners in the
universe. On the plain where the majority of the
population professed the Greek religion, his chamdeon
feith assumed a different character ; now he abhorred
the carved image worshipping of the Latin wolves, the
Miriditi, who were all idolaters, and damned to all
eternity. When he mingled with the Childm of the
Crescent, he complied with thdr customs, and imitated
their religious observances; and bdng a good anger,
never failed to conciliate their friendship by ung^ng
some song that flattered their self-love and national
pride, whether Osmanli or Albanian.
With an the quickness and sharp intellect of the
Greek, Stefa combined the honesty of the Slavonian;
but he was one of the ugliest men I ever saw, the
greatest talker, the most slavbh flatterer and coward
in existence ; these little foibles, however, ^d not retard
his worldly success, for he was considered to be very
wealthy by his townspeople at Strouga. In his capa^
city of pedlar, he was accustomed to traverse these
provinces in every direction, knew every person and
every place ; and the inhabitants of the different towns
and Aillages looked forward to a visit from Stefa as m
most desirable event, since he supplied the men, who
universally shave the head, with cotton skull caps^
braiding for thdr jackets, and bright g^t daqpa,
92 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
buttons, and sundiy other articles for ihdr wardrobe.
To the women he brought trinkets, pins, needles,
thimbles, thread, and other wares, besides veils, silk
handkerchiefs, and perfumery. In a country so law-
less, and so often torn by insurrection, it is almost a
manrd he escaped being robbed and assassinated ; but
Stefa was a pattern to all pedlars, a prince among
politicians, his good humour was unfailing, he had a
kind word and a flattering speech, alike for the wealthy
Mahometan of the plain, and the prowling Haiduc of
the mountains ; and above all, he was a living gazette,
circulated all the news of the day, and was without a
rival as a singer and story-teller.
My friends at Ocrida and Strouga recommended him
very highly, but he would not consent to accompany
me, unless I allowed him to attach sundry little pack-
ages of merchandize to my saddle. It is true, this gave
mc the appearance of a pedlar ; but in a country without
roads, and in moimtain districts, where the traveller,
who has any regard for the safety of his neck, must
occasionally perform the journey on foot, I was indif-
ferent about the matter, particularly as he had a capital
pair of horses, and being kind and attentive to their
wants, they followed him, and answered his whisde,
like a couple of Spaniel dogs.
At the Pass of Keupris, through which runs a
torrent of the same name, Hamsa left us, for we were
now about to enter the country of the Djeghi Miriditi,
presenting an aspect equally wild and desolate as any I
had hitherto traversed. There was the little river, like
ALBANIA.
y
a cataract, tearing its ooune between a wall of rock
with a narrow horse-path before us» resemb&ng a ribbon
carried along the brow of an almost perpendicular
mountain ; it was, in truth, a fearful pass, and might
cause the stoutest heart to hesitate befcnre commencing
it ; but by the influence of habit we become so inured
even to the most dangerous passes in mountain traTel-
ling, that we fear not to mount a crag or a precipice^
which at another time we should shrink from at-
tempting.
On descending through the depths of a defile, equally
precipitous, with a half dried-up torrent, we came to
the rapid Scoumbi, the Genusus of the andents, and
the Tobi of the Miriditi; having successfully forded
the siuge, we hurried on to the ban, which appeared
like an eagle's nest pending from the Ivow of the
mountain, where Stefi^ with his worn-out horses, de-
termined to pass the night This arrangement was mudi
against my inclination, as I had no wish to be tormented
with an additional number of the live stock that in&st
these resting-places of the traveller in European Turk^.
However, there was no alternative, the rodcs offered no
pastiu^ for our horses, and Stefa fdt certab that if we
slept alfresco in such a wild district as this, we should
run a fair chance, if we escaped the prowling bandit^
to be devoured by bears or wolves.
Poor Ste& ! if he avoided one peril that haunted his
imagination, he rushed into another; for on entering
the ban we found it crowded with a band of fierce
mountaineers, armed at all points, on their way to join
94 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the rebd chicflaiDy Julika. The angry look they seemed
to cast upon us was sufficient to shake the nerves of a
stronger man than our kiraidji, whose ghastly features
and trembling limbs indicated that his thoughts were
wandering among the oontejits of hispedlar^s pack.
He wisdy, however, made the best of his position,
and having most respectfully saluted the party by
|dadng his hand over his heart, and saying in Albanian,
" Mir ouemata," accompanied by " aye-schindosh," (a
good evening, and hoping he found his good friends all
wdl, proceeded to place our various packages and
saddle-bags under the care of the hanji« His mind
being so fiur at rest, and having exchanged a word
or two with the master of the ban in an adjoining room,
he ventured into the general reception-room, carrying a
huge bag filled with the finest tutoun (tobacco) and a
canister of genuine English powder. This he divided
among the warriors, as priming for their guns and
pistols, assuring them, with much grandiloquence of
style, it was a present firom his Serene ICghness the
Ingleski Bey> his master (what a bouncer I) at the
same time hoping they would honour the humblest
of their slaves by accepting fix)m him a littie tutoun.
Whatever might have been the original intention
of these warriors of the phistan, Stefa's politic ma-
nceuvre, won the good-will of all present; the best
jdaoe in the room was assigned to us, tchibouques and
raki were pressed upon us fiiom every side, and we
found oursdves as safe in the midst of these wild-
looking insurrectionists as if we w^re under the safe-
\
I
i
\
i
t
ALBANIA* 96
guard of the pofioe of the best-reguhted ooontiy in
Western Europe. In shorty the only drawbadc to my
amusement, >vas my inabOity to hold convene with our
warUke companions, except through the meifium of two
I bad interpreters, Stefii and the hanji — a 25nzar, whose
native tongue, the Roumaniski, somewhat resembled the
LAtin.
The chief, or leader of the band, who possessed m
most intelligent countenance, strildngly resembled in
form and feature a certain nobleman in England, and,
like him, was a splendid specimen of man. He ex-
pressed lumself much interested on finding he had met
with a Frank, and told us that, according to tradition,
his ancestors were Norman, and possessed vast estates
in Upper and Central Albania, preidous to the Turidsh
conquest, the greater part of which th^ lost during
the wars of Scanderbcg and subsequent revohitions.
I j. Although a Mahometan, he held the Osmanli in great
»| contempt, whom he denounced as a gluttonous race.
without honour or faith ; the phrase he used, and which
I heard so frequently afterwards in the mouth of an
Albanian, was ** Osmanlb dnu kalos dia to tchorba !**
Poor fellow! I fear he was engaged in a hazardoos
enterprize, which would probably end in the loss of his
life, or at least the remnant of the lands bequeathed to him
by his forefathers. On parting, he presented me with a
beautiful poniard, the handle glittering with silver and
precious stones ; and in return, I gave him the last pair
of pistols but one out of half a dozen I had brought
with me from England, to serve as presents on amilar
96 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
occasions. ** Preserve this," said he, '* as a talisman ; for
should you get into trouble, or meet with any of our bands,
you have only to show it, and tell them that you have
eaten out of the same dish, drank out of the same cup, and
smoked out of the same tchibouque with the Bey Manie
of Croia, to find everywhere a fiiend and protector."
On leaving the ban the landscape still maintained its
character for savage wildness, abounding in gorges,
narrow defiles and rocky precipices, till we arrived at
the great stone bridge over the Scoumbi, consisting of
twdve arches, without a parapet, exceedingly narrow, and
with a pomted arch in the centre, rising to a height of at
least fifty feet Altogether it was a singular specimen
of bridge building by the ancients, and proves that
travelling on wheded vehides was not more fashionable
then in Albania than in our time. There was an
inscription to record that it was repaired' by the puissant
Seigneur, Kurd Ptoha. During my subsequent ex-
cursions in Albama and Epirus, I met with other
bridges, constructed in a similar manner, but at what
epoch, or by what people, has not hitherto been satis-
fieustorily discovered. Some antiquarians believe them
to be the work of the ancient Macedonians or the
Romans, while others imagine them to have been built
by the Byzantine Greeks. In every instance the Turks
have defistced the original inscription, with the absurd
intention of destroying every trace of the original pos-
sessors of the country ; and in some cases, they have even
placed an inscription, telling the reader it was they who
had erected the bridgel What a miradei
ALBANU. 97
After crosung the Scoumbi, the defile continued to
widen into a beautiAil fertile valley, sjdeadid forest tteei
covered the sides of the mountsina to the highest peak,
meadows and arable fields lined the books of the river,
while many a pretty hamlet lay scattered here and then,
half hid by the fohage of the ordiard and the forest
As we advanced we entered a fine avenue of plane-trees,
of an enormous uze, which conducted us to KIbasaan,
atuatcd in one of the most beautiful and fertile pbiai
m Albania, where the t^ve and the vine, the fig sod
the pomegranate, arrive to the highest pctfediim.
Elbossan, the ancient Bassania, previous to the nila
of the Turks was one of the most commercial towns in
this part of the world, with a population exceeding fifty
thousand, reduced at present to between three and fear
thousand ; altogether, the town presents a melanc^KJy
picture of castles, turrets, fortifications, fotmtains, puUie
buildings, bazaars, and private bouses, all lying in nun.
Even the mosque, so gcneraUy the pride of the Ma-
hometan, is here fast felling to decay, its crumbling
waQs affordmg nourishment to the fig, which is seen
spreading its fbli^e, in company with a forest of statdy
weeds, alike over the porch and the gilded dome. Even
the river, a tributary of the Scoumbi, which once flowed
around the town in a dear and rapid stream, now im-
peded in its progress by mounbuns of rubbish, caused
by the fell of the towers and breaches in the walls,
forms a succession of stagnant putrid ponds, exhaHng
death to the inhabitants who stiD <^g to the hearth of
thor forefathers ; and, to add to th^ misery, there is
TOL. II. H
98 TRAVELS IN EUROPSAN TURKEY.
not a drop of water to be bad fit for culinary purposes,
without resorting to a spring in the neighbouring moun-
tains, fix)m which the Romans, who perfecdy under-
stood the value of time and labour, had conducted an
aqueduct, now serving as a picturesque ruin to increase
the romantic interest of the landscape. We need
scarody add, that Elbassan is the abode of pestilence,
suffidratiy evidenced by the siddy yeiQow hue visible in the
countenances of the inhabitants ; whereas the town, by
the removal of the nuisances we have mentioned, might
be rendered perfectiy healthy, and would be by any
other people than these ignorant Mahometans, who
appear to live only for the pleasure of doing nothing.
Provisions are abundant at Elbassan, and excellent
of their land ; fancy my purchasing a fat lamb, ready
cooked, for about eightpence of our money! a large
basket full of the fiori of the fig, now ripe, and of a
flavour superior to those I found in any other coxmtry,
for less than a penny! Several wealthy Beys and
Spahis still reside here; these, with the Turkish
Governor, the civil and military authorities, impart
something of life to the coffee-houses, the bazaar and
the streets, and delight to show themselves attired in
the rich, gaudy costume of Albanian warriors, their
weapons glittering with diamonds and precious stones.
The greater number of the inhabitants of the town are
Mahometans of the Albanian Djeghi tribes. Since the
introduction of the reforms of the Sultan, they have lost
much of the fanaticism by which they were formerly
characterized ; and to express their dislike to the rule
uf the Osouinli, who tbey hate aad despise, tiiey h&ve
recently subscribed a large sum of money towards
repairiDg an old chundi in the town for the so-vice of
the Christians, hallowed by the recollection, that witlun
its walls Scanderb^ and the other chieftains of Albania
had sworn, on the Evangdists, never to sheathe thdr
swords while an iniidcl Osmanli desecrated the sofl of
their fathers.
Not\Tithstanding the continued insurrections of these
wnHike tribes of Albania, and their reckless bravery,
they rarely succeed in giuaing any important advantages
over their old enemies, the OsmanU ; and even if they
could emancipate thcmsdves, we fear that the country
would become a prey to the horrors of dvil war, in
consequence of the rivalry of creeds, and the hosUUty of
tribes. We have only to leave Elbassan, and cross one
of the mountains to the south, when we enter the
country of the Toski tribes, equally divided in &ith —
part Mahometan, and part adhering to the Greek ritual ;
and however much they may dislike each other on
religious grounds, they concur in their enmity towards
their ndghbours, the Miriditi. The same may be said
of the Djami tribes, that inhabit part of the andent
Epirus, and the Lapi, the Acroceraunian mountuns on
the sea-coast Nor are these the only tribes that call
Albania thdr home: the shrewd Zinzar, and the
laborious Bulgarian, are increasing in numbtas and
influence ; in addition to these we find Hellenic Greeks,
Armenians, Jews and Gipsies, forming such a ocmfiision
of tongues, and rivalry of tribes and creeds, as to pr»>
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100 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
dude the prospect of any union of bterests in the
present day.
The Mahometan-Albanians, of whatever tribe, at
least have the merit of being actuated by patriotic
motives, and a love of independence; whereas the
Christians, influenced by the arts of designing priests,
in addition to their unnatural hatred towards each
other, are traitors to the independence of their country.
The Albanians of the south, the Djami, who adhere to
the Greek ritual, desire a union with their co-religionists
of Modem Greece, King Otho*s little kingdom ; while
those of the north, the Miriditi, who follow the Latin
creed, regard the Roman Catholic Sovereign of Austria
as thdr spiritual and temporal chief. This is the true
cause why a coimtry so admirably defended by nature,
and inhabited by a people not surpassed by any other
in bravery and love of liberty, has remained so long
under the rule of the Osmanli. We have seen the
r^ami, the unhappy Christians of Souli and Parga — a
mere handful of men — successftJly defend for years
their freedom and moimtain home against the over-
whelming forces of the Mahometan-Albanians under
Ali Pacha of Jannina, without their neighbours, the
Toski or the Lapi, their co-religionists and countrymen,
raising a single arm to assist them.
The Miriditi, both Mahometans and Christians, whose
territory, the ancient Djegharia, includes nearly the half
of Albania, are, from position and numbers, by far the
most powerful of all the Albanian tribes, and continue to
mainUun, in the fastnesses of their native mountains a sort
i. I ALBANIA. 101
of w3d independence, never submitting to the harritdi
nor the conscription, unless by force of arms ; and now
that their old rivals, the Toski and the r^ami, have
been nearly exterminated during the dreadful rule of
Ali Pacha of Jannina, should the Mahometan Miriditi
at any time, through political motives or conviction,
return to the creed of their fathers^ and make common
cause with their brethren, the Latin Miriditi, they might
succeed in driving out the Osmanli and bringing the
whole of Albania under their subjection. To aid them
in this, they possess a long line of sea-coast, with towns
and harbours, particularly Scutari, together with the
old town of Croia, the ancient capital of the Kings of
Albania, always a prestige in their favour. They have
also the advantage that a large portion of these tribes,
to which we have before alluded — the Latin Miriditi — are
wholly independent of the Ottoman Porte, and have
I been governed since the days of Scanderb^ by their
hereditary princes, at whose littie capital, the mountain
town of Oros, the crown of Albania is still preserved.
We regret that the Umits of this work will not permit
I us to enter into the history of these warlike tribes, the
Latin Miriditi, who, like the mountdneers of Tcher*
n^ora, have continued for centuries to defend thdr
mountsun home against the most powerful armies of the
Ottoman Porte. It is true there is not a single pass
leading from the lowlands where an army could ad*
vance without danger of being annihilated by a people
who are hereditary guerillas, and who inhabit a natural
dtadd surpassing in strength all that human skill and
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102 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
foresight could construct As Englishmen, we cannot
but admire the heroic spirit of these noble patriots !
who, when they had been defeated in the pliun, took
refuge on the moimtain, where they could at least be
free, and follow the fiedth of their fiithers • and how
many privations must they not have endured ! — ^how
many generations passed away, before they could even
procure a scanty subsistence from the sterile soil I And
what a proof is here exhibited of man's industry and per-
severance : the home of the bear, the wolf and the boar,
on which grew the noisome weed and prickly shrub, we
see now transformed to gardens and corn-fields ; and on
the mountain top, where the eagle and the vulture
reigned supreme, we behold innumerable flocks of sheep
and goats.
It is a popular saying among the inhabitants of
European Turkey, of whatever nationality or creed,
" Where the Sultan's horse hath trod, the earth
yieldeth nought save thorns and thistles!" and truly,
we have only to wander over the mountains, of what-
ever district, and then descend to the plain, to be
convinced of its truth. And how melancholy! wher-
ever we roam in this lovely country, we see the finest
land lying uncultivated for the want of inhabitants:
here the remains of entrenchments, there the ruins of
churches, forts, towers, towns and cities, telling the
fearful tale of the thousands who had died in their attack
and defence. With so many objects to remind the
inhabitants of the destroyer, whose descendant is still their
Sovci-cign, can we feel surprized at the intense and bitter
ALBANIA. 103
hatred ttiey bear towards thence of Othmao, to iriioae
barbarous administration they owe all their misfbrtunei.
Albania, as elsewhere in these provinces, is still without
any other roads than those left by the Romans ; the
rivers without bridges, and the towns and cities fast
felling into ruins ; and to increase the discontent of the
Mussulman population, ^ce the introductioa of the
conscription, they are hunted down like wild beasts, to
aweQ the ranks of the Nlzam-y-Djedid, or expatriated in
thousands to colonize some disturbed district in Asia or
Europe. Thus torn from the soQ of their fethera —
their best affections trampled upon ; district after
district bursts forth into those annual revolts, whidi
are never put down without great loss of life, and the
hot tdood of the Albanian is fired anew, vrith the never-
dying thirst of revenge.
Unhappily, the picture we have drawn is too tnie^
and at once explains the rapid diminutioa of the popu-
lation of Albania, which previous to the rule of All
Facha of Jannina, contained two nuDions and a half.
The wars and massacres of that fyrant destroyed, it is
presumed, half a million ; then came the reforms of the
Sultan, and the irmurection of the Beys, and their
slaughter by the Grand Vizier, Mehemet Resdiid
Vttcha ; this horrible event was succeeded by the rdxl-
lioD of Moustapha B^ of Scutari, who, supported by
Austria and Russia, fought loi^ and successfully for
the crown of Albania, tiS betrayed by his two allies,
when they found it their interest to disown him, he
was obliged to give way to a superior forc^ and Albama
104 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
had the misfortune to be over-run by an army of its
own children, who, though Christians professing the
Greek ritual, battled side by side with an army of
infidels. The reader will not be surprised, after
perusing this hasty sketch, to learn that the popula-
tion of Albania is now diminished to one million six
hundred thousand.
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CHAPTER V.
Origin of the Albanians — Their warlike tendencies — Creeds
manners and customs of the Albanians — Feudal institutiona
— Hereditary chieftains — Austrian poliUca in Albania — Sketch
of Mahmoud Baraklia — Contemporary history of Albama —
Insurrectionary movements of the Mussulman-Albaniana-—
Their wars with the Turks — Sketch of the Grand Yinier,
Mehmet Reschid Pacha — Cruel policy of the Turkish GoTem-
ment in Albania — Horrible slaughter of the Albanian chief-
tains at Bittoglia — ^The conscription — Its demoralizing effects
— Great discontent among the people — Difficulty of govenung
Albania.
Notwithstanding all the efforts of the learned and
the antiquarian since the days of the Greeks and the
Romans, the origin of the inhabitants of Albania still
remains a disputed point ; it is, however, pretty gene-
rally agreed, they came from the Caucasus. This
supposition is strengthened by the fact, that there are
tribes stiU existing on the banks of the Samour in the
ancient Albana, bearing the names of the Toxidi and
Ejmaki, which correspond with the Toski and the
106 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Egami tribes of our Albania. The appeOation of
Miriditi, by which the Djeghi tribes, particulariy those
who adhere to the Latin ritual, are more geno^y
known, is derived from a word in the language of the
Medes and Perl^ians — ^Marditi (brave), simply a tide of
honour, like Slavoni and Germani (men of war). It is
presumed that the expedition of Jason to Cholcludus^
having irritated the Caucasian tribes, they retaliated by
invading these provinces, where they reigned from sea
to sea ; this theory is corroborated by the fiict, that
several ancient towns, rivers, districts and mountains,
stin preserve their Albanian names. On the other
hand, one or two German writers contend that the
Albanians are the aborigines of these provinces, whence
sprung the Greeks, Illyrians, and Slavonians; this we
think must be erroneous, since the Albanians of the
pure race, the Skipetar tribes (inhabitants of the moun-
tains), bear no resemblance in feature, character or
language, to the Greeks or the Slavonians; they are
more like the Lcsghi tribes in the Caucasus and on the
Caspian Sea, than any other I am acquainted with.
They are diaracterized by the same expressive, sharp
features, tall, athletic figure, capable of enduring any
&tigue, and like them, they exhibit the same indomit-
able spirit of resistance to the rule of the stranger, and
the same love of indep^idenoe.
When the whole of Greece and the neighbouring
provinces submitted, first to the 'Romans, and then to
the Osmanli, Albania was destined to be the last
home of liberty ; for neither the eagle of the one, nor
ALBANIA. 107
the crescent of the other, ever waved over the moun-
tains of the Skipetar ; neither has mighty Russia, after a
siege of fifty years, been able to reach the strong hold
of the Cauca^an LesghL Like the Caucaaans, it has
been noticed, wherever the Skipetars of Albania have
mingled with any other race, they have imparted to
I them their own inflexible character — thdr warUke en-
i thusiasm. The Djami tribes of Souli and Paiga,
already immortalized in verse, were a mixed race of
Albanians and Greeks, and their neighbours, the indo-
mitable moimtaineers of Tchemegora, are also a miilange
of the Slavonian and Albanian* Still there is a singular
anomaly in the character of the Albanian, since we find
' him in every epoch submitting to be made the tool of
some tyrant stranger, whether Greek, Macedonian,
Roman, or Turk, to enslave the nations: his energy
in the battle-field rendered the Turk the terror of
Christendom; yet, of all the great warriors Albania
has produced, not one except Scanderbeg has trans-
mitted his name to posterity, owing to the facility with
which these people, when they leave their native moun-
tains, mingle with other races, and merge their in-
dividual name and glory in that of their rulers.
Among the long catalogue of successful warriors and
celebrated viziers and pachas, whose names adorn the
pages of Turkish history, there are few who were not
natives of Albania and Bosnia; and although the
Albanians have been stigmatized for thdr ferocious
disposition and predatory habits, we must not mtet
they are naturally cruel, when we remember they were
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108 TELkYELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the instnimente of a roost unscrupulous goverament,
who pud its troops by allowiiig them to plunder, and
considered the best test of a warrior^s prowess con-
asted in the number of ears he was able to produce
at head-quarters. Let the stranger visit any one of
them, of whatever creed — the wealthy inhabitant of
the koulay or the miserable tenant of the hut — and he
is certain to find a hearty welcome among a people
who regard hospitality as the first duty of man towards
man, and who would sacrifice their own life in defence
of him who had broken bread with them, or even
smoked the tchibouque.
In order to study the manners and customs of the
Albamans in all their purity, we must visit the inde-
pendent tribes of the Miriditi in their mountain strong-
hold, where the hostile foot of an Osmanii never trod,
where we shall find the same feudal institutions exist-
ing as in the days of Scanderbeg, somewhat similar
to the state of the highlanders of Scotland in the
middle ages. The title of chief is hereditary, and he
is invested by his clan with the triple authority of
chief, judge and patriarch. As chief, he declares war
and leads them to battle ; as judge, there is no appeal
from his decision ; and as patriarch, he governs the
church. Each noble family has its armorial ensign,
and each tribe its respective banner, confided to its
warriors when they set forth on a militaiy expedition ;
and however great may be the power of the chieftain,
and the confidence reposed in him by his dan, it is
rarely abused. He lives among them at his koula with
ALBANIA. 109
the utmost ^mplidty of manners^ r^ards them as his
chndreDy and provides for thdr wants.
A community, in which the whole power was vested
in the sword, must have ended in complete anardiy — a
war of tribes^ had not these people the good sense to
adhere to the monarchical form of government of their
forefathers, and preserved through every idds^tude and
suffering an unbroken all^iance to their hereditary
princes, the Dodas» one of the descendants of the
fiunily of Scanderb^. This Prince, who resides at
Oros, a little town in the canton of the Doukagini,
not far distant from Croia, surrounded by the higher
clergy and the most influential dders of the land,
exercises the rights of a sovereign, and maintains the
form and machinery of a government
It must be admitted, that the Miriditi mountaineers
owe much of the dvilized habits of social life to the
higher clergy, who are all natives of Austria and Italy ;
but, imfortunately, they have trained these poor simple
people, through political motives, to the most deplorable
fanaticism, which leads, as we before observed, to
those terrible encounters with thdr ndghbours, the
Slavonians of the Greek Church of Tdiem^;0ra, a j
people equally brave and fitnadc as themsdves; while
the Mahometan daps his hands and cries: '*Wdl
done, my Latin wolves and Greek dogs, worry eadi
other ! — ^you will then become more easily the prey of
the lion Osmanli !" The consequence has been, that
the Miriditi have now not only to contend against the
Crescent, but the mcessant hatred of an insidious
110 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
enemyy the Greek, who is gradually placing their moun-
tain home between two fires — the Slavonian Greek to
the north, and Albania HeDenized to the south.
Reckless of life^ conficUng by nature, and hence ever
liable to be deceived, an Albanian, of whatever tribe or
religious creed, is easily won over to the opinions of a
dever adventurer, who desires to make him his instru-
ment for furthering his own selfish designs. While we
are discussing the social organization of the people, we
shall relate a few episodes in their contemporary history,
which are partly, if not wholly, unknown to the inha-
bitants of Western Europe, illustrative of the character
of the people ; their rulers, the Osmanli ; and their dan-
gerous intr^iung neighbours, the Austrians and Russians.
About the year 1786, the Austrian Government,
under the plea of protecting its co-religionists, the
Miriditi mountsdneers, for the first time interfered in
the internal affsurs of Albania ; and having singled out
Mahmoud Baraklia, hereditary Pacha of Scutari, as its
instrument, offered to support and acknowledge him as
sovereign of Albania, provided he would be baptized
and adopt as his creed the Roman Catholic. There
was no difliculty in winning over a man who had
already, by many of his acts and alliances with the Latin
chiefs of the Miriditi, made himself suspected by the
Ottoman Porte, which however did not find itself strong
enough to send the Capidgibaschi with his bow-string
to visit a man who exercised the rights of a petty
sovereign over the most numerous and valiant of all the
tribes in Albama.
ALBANIA. Ill
In viun the Sultan sought to retain the ambitioas
Pacha in obedience, by promises of boundless ^^ealtfa
and advancement to the highest dignities in the empire;
in vain the Scheick-Islam launched anathema upon
anathema against the Giaour P^u^ha and his adherents ;
he remained firm to his purpose, and daily became
more and more the idol of the people. In the mean-
time, Joseph II., who was then the sovereign of Austria,
sent his first contingent of five hundred veteran sddiers
to the assistance of the rebel chieftain, these were to be
speedily followed by fifteen hundred, and that the new
creed of his proUg^ should not want for a stimulant,
they were accompamed by a legion of priests bearing an
enormous silver cross, and a Madonna blazing with
diamonds and precious stones. The black eagle, in a
crimsoned field, the banner of Scanderb^, was now
unfiirled, and consecrated by the Roman clergy, in
presence of an army of twenty thousand eager warriors^
whose vivats prodaimed — ^Mahmoud of Scutari, the
descendant of Scanderbeg, soverdgn of Albania.
Whfle these events were passing at Scutari, a
Turkish fleet arrived in the Adriatic to blockade the
coast of Albania ; at the same time, a Turkish army,
under the command of the Seraskier, Vizier of
Roumdia, having crossed the dangerous passes between
Macedonia and Albania, and joined the Toski and the
other fanatic Mahometan tribes of Albania, fell with fire
and sword upon the devoted land of the insuigents
with an impetuosity that promised to cany all before it
The terrified Mahmoud, astounded at the extraoitiUnaiy
112 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
vigour displayed by the Ottoman Porte, repented of his
precipitancy^ and shutting himself up with his Austrian
allies in the strong town of Scutari, entered into a secret
negotiation with the Seraskier. But his other allies, the
Roman Catholic Miriditi of the mountains, strong in their
unity of one common creed, with a firm reliance on the
sincerity of their chief, and strangers to political
intrigue, having joined their brethren of the lowlands, at
the first onset made themselves masters of the passes
leading into Macedonia, and with their usual reckless
bravery, fell upon a division of the Vizier's best troops
and drove them towards the pass of Ocrida, when,
finding all hope of safety was at an end, they threw down
their arms and fled, communicating a panic to the
entire army of the Seraskier.
We are afraid to enumerate the loss of the Turks,
and the Mahometan Toski, during this fatal action,
which the Miriditi, exultingly say, equalled that of the
greatest victories ever achieved by their hero
Scanderbeg.
The character of Mahmoud Baraklia — or, as he is
better known in Turkish history, Kara Mahmoud — is
open to much reproach; and however illustrious his
descent might be — from the hero Scanderbeg — he was
no soldier ; and subsequent events proved that he was
either a fool, or a traitor to the unsuspecting tribes that
so madly followed his standard. Instigated on one side
by the Sultan, who must have been desirous to see the
fall of so ambitious a chieftain, he was offered the
doubtful sovereignty of the free tribes of Tchemegora,
ALBANIA. 113
with the territoiy of the Latin Miriditi, and Scutari, as
a sea-port ; on the other hand, Austria, who could not
view with complacency the growing power of a little
State devoted to the interests of Russia, promised him
her protection and assistance. Fortified in his invasion
by the Imperial rights of the Sultan, who had accorded
to him the sovereignty of Tchemegora, and hallowed by
the blessing of the Romanist clergy that followed his
standard, the too sanguine Pacha, who fancied he could
succeed in any enterprize, however difficult, at the head
of his valiant Miriditi, entered at once into their views.
The Christian Miriditi, also, flushed with victory, and
excited to madness by their priests, who told them they
were the chosen soldiers of the true fiiith, and that in
extirpating the schismatics of Tchemegora, they were
only executing divine vengeance on heretics, were ever
the foremost among his troops.
Now, it happened that the schismatics of Tchemegora
were equally intolerant, and had also their priests, who pro-
pagated similar fanatic opinions to those of their rivals
of the Latin Chturch. We will spare the reader the dctaib
of the horrible butcheries that ensued ; the Tchem^ori
mountaineers, more pmdent than their adversaries the
Miriditi, allowed them to penetrate into the interior of
their mountains as far as Tchetini, where they were
surrounded by an implacable foe that gave no quarter,
and, as a memorial of the victory, Mahmoud Baraklia^s
head still adorns the hall of the senate-house.
The tragic death of the old lion Mahmoud, as he is
familiarly called among the Miriditi, and the losses his
VOL. II. I
114 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
party sustained in this fatal conflict^ induced his son
and successor^ Moustapha, to submit to the authority of
the Sultan ; and as a proof of his fidelity, the Austrian
troops were discharged, and the heads of the principal
conspirators, particularly that of Signor di Brognardi,
the Austrian agent, were sent to console the Divan at
StambouL
The complete disorganization that ensued among the
Miriditi after this fittal defeat, excited the ambition of
all the Beys and chieftains of the other tribes of Albania,
who aspired to supreme power. Among these there
was none that knew how to profit by the events of the
day like Ali Pacha of Jannina. The singular career
and tragic death of this adventurer, who from a captain
of banditti became a despotic ruler, are too well known
to require description; it will sufficiently connect the
thread of oiur historical sketch to say, that the theatre
of his massacres, devastations, and tyrannic rule, being
principally confined to Southern Albania among the
Toski, the Djami, and the Lapi tribes, their fall, with
that of thdr leader, paved the way for the young lion,
Moustapha of Scutari, and his Miriditi, Christian and
Mahometan, to become again the ruling tribes of
Albania.
At the death of Ali of Jannina, the Ottoman empire
tottered to its foundation, and may be said to have
owed its safety to the state of barbarism in which the
country was sunk, for, as is the case in the present
day, no means of transmitting letters, or commimicating
any intelligenoe existed, either by post or printed pub-
ALBANIA. 115
lication ; consequendy the inhabitants of one provinoe
were entirdy ignorant of what occurred in another.
This isolation of the disturbed districts prevented the
insurgents from acting in concert, and the magmtude
of the danger passed over.
Mehemet Ali, of Egj'pt, ruled independent of the
Ottoman Porte ; the principality of Servia was nearly
so ; while Moldavia and Wallachia, instigated by the
agents of the Greeic Hcteria, broke out into rebeDion
about the same time as Greece. The plan of a simul-
taneous rising of the entire Rayah population of Euro-
pean Turkey, solely failed through the renval of the
old hatred between the nvvl races, Greek and Slavonbiiy
in which ndther would submit to be ruled by a chief-
tain of the other. It was of no avail that they pro-
fessed the same creed — ^always a rall}ing point to races,
however distinct they may bo — the ancient hatred rf
the Slavonian to Greek perfidy, Greek levity, and the
traditionary recollection of what their forefathers had
suffered under the Byzantine rule, remained in full
force. The consequence was, that not a single Slavo-
nian, with the exception of Botzaris and one or two
others, raised an arm or subscribed a piastre towards
assisting the unhappy Greeks during the tragic scenes
that ensued.
Hitherto Sultan Mahmoud held in his hands a dread-
ful scourge ; wherever there was a people to be coerced,
a country plundered, he found his ready instrument
in the warlike Mahometan hordes of Albania and
Bosnia — a military force, which while it did not cost
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116 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURRET.
him a farthing, sufficed to hold in check the reckless
hraveiy of the Christian insurgents of Servia, Greece,
and the other provinces on the Lower Danube. By
the slaughter of the Janissaries, a measure at that
moment most impolitic, since he had not an effective
force to replace them, he lost the sympathy of these
warriors of the Crescent.
This was succeeded by the introduction of European
reforms and usages repugnant to the habits of the
people, which led to the insurrection of the Beys and
Spahis of Albania and Bosnia, and which has con-
tinued with more or less activity down to the present
day. At a moment so menacing to the existence of
the Ottoman empire, Russia declared war ; and Austria,
who always goes hand in hand with her northern ally,
if she did not assume a position actually hostile, re-
sorted to her usual weapon — intrigue, with the view
of securing to herself Albania and Bosnia, in the event
of a dissolution of the rule of the Sultan — provinces
so admirably adapted to round her already extensive
empire. The Roman Catholic Miriditi mountain tribes
were wholly devoted to her cause ; and could Moustapha
Bey of Scutari, be gained over to place himself at the
head of the movement, success was certain.
The same propositions, formerly accepted by the
unlucky father, were now made to the son ; and Russia
being at this time deeply interested in the ruin of the
Sultan, offered to support him, conjointly with Austria,
as Sovereign Prince of Albania. The misfortunes of
the father had taught his more wary son prudence.
ALBANU. 117
He saw that he was merdy iDtcnded to be a foppiA
in leading striogs, to be danced according to the in-
terests of the astute politiciaDs of dvilized EuropOL
Thus, while the other Beys of Albania were engaged
in a war of extermination, each hoping to rise to
supreme power on the ruin of the otho*, Moustapha
and bis Miriditi remained pas^ve spectators oi the
scene.
Unhappy Turkey 1 the good genius of Othman had
not whoDy deserted bis race. At this critical moment
a hero of a different mould, from the d^enerate
Osmanlis of the day, was chosen by the reforming
Sultan as his Grand Vizier. This was Mehmet Resc^id,
so well known for bis fidelity to the late Sultan Mab-
moud, and to whom we bare bod occa^on to refer
while travelling in Bosnia. In adcUtion to being gifled
with aQ the ancient fire and energy of his race, he was
a zealous Mahometan ; firmly believing that any met,
however cruel, was sanctified when emanating from
the Sultan, who alone inherited the prerogative to make
or unmake, to bind or to slay, according as the esi-
gcndes of tbe moment might dictate. In short, our
Grand Vizier was one of those bigots who confided so
absolutely in tbe divine wisdom of tbe Caliph of the
Faithful, that had Sultan Mahmoud declared himsdf
a Christian, be would have followed him in his heresy,
and propagated the tenets of the new doctrine with the
same fcn'ency and devotion which now distinguished
him in his ruthless crusade agunst tbe enemies of
reform; and in do part of the TVirkish emfnit^ not
118 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
even in Bosnia, was there manifested so decided a
hostility to change, as among the high-born conser-
vatives of Albania, whose raDying cry was "Death
to the Giaour Sultan r
However gloomy appearances might be, the wary
Vizier was prepared for every emergency. In the
poetic language of his race, he knew he held in his
hands a bridle to cheek the fire of the Mahometan
steed ; and though the measure might be opposed to
the laws of the Koran, he determined, having the sanc-
tion of the Caliph, to put arms into the hands of the
Rayahs, who everywhere sided with a government
which secured to them civil and religious rights equal
to those enjoyed by their hereditary oppressors, the
Mahometans. It is true they suffered severely at the
commencement of the conflict, but it was attended
with important results, since it taught them the art
of war, improved their moral condition; and for the
first time they became aware of their own strength,
bravery and numbers.
We have said that the whole of the Mussulman
Beys of Albania, with the exception of Moustapha,
the prudent chief of the Miriditi, were in open revolt
against the authority of the Giaour Sultan. The Grand
Vizier, while he flattered this powerful chieftain, re-
solved to sow dissensions among the other Beys of
the Toski, the Lapi and the Ejami; this, however,
could not be done without funds, and there was not
^ piastre to be had from the Turkish exchequer,
•J'^eady dnuned of its last coin, which went to purchase
ALBANU. 119
peace from Russia; and to add to the embarrassmoit
of the executive, civil dissensions and insurrections
were not confined to Albania, but everywhere rampant
throughout the entire empire. With consummate
ability he addressed himself to the high dignitaries
of the Greek Church, whose esteem he had won by
timely and important concessions; painted to them
the situation of the empire, and the probability of their
own ruin, with that of the reforming Sultan, should
the fanatic Mussulmans again succeed to power. The
appeal had the desired effect A pastoral letter from
the Patriarch of Constantinople to every diocese in
the empire, produced an immense coDection from the
Christians.
The Grand Vizier, now so opportundy supplied with
the sinews of war, instead of repairing to the scene
of action, although he lay at Bittoglia with a large force
of the tacticocs, together with the adherents of those
Beys, Pachas and Spahis attached to the cause of
reform, continued to fight the battle in Albania with
his usual weapons — corruption and intrigue — best
suited to a people who were invincible so long as th^
remained united. With great tact, he gained over to
the cause of reform the most powerful and valiant of
the chieftains, Veli Bey, who held possession of Jannina
and the whole of the intermediate country, with the
strong towns of Arta and Prevesa, and who, in con-
junction with the Epirot Christians, successfully main-
tained himself against the refractory Beys.
The astute Asiatic, who secretly entertamed the de-
120 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
agn of exterminating all the feudal Beys and Spahis in
Albania, as he knew that so long as they existed there
could be no hope of introducing the reforms of the
Sultan, having succeeded in kindling the torch of
dvil yrwr, under the pretence that his religious feelings,
as a good Mahometan, prevented him from spilling the
•
blood of the faithful, obstinately refused to take any
part in the struggle. This forbearance on the part of
the Grand Vizier gained him the esteem of the con-
tending chieflains, who, at length weary of the contest,
and acted upon by clever agents, consented to leave
their grievances to the decision of the high-minded,
peace-loving representative of the Sultan.
The web of intrigue, so artfuDy woven by the Grand
Vizier, was now about to be drawn around his un-
suspecting victims. W^th his usual blandness of
manner, and expressions of delight at the termination
of their disputes, he, in the name of the Sultan, granted
all their demands ; and in order to bind their union still
more dosdy, he invited to his camp, at BittogUa, all
who were desirous of distinguishing themsdvcs in the
service of the state ; and if Albania did not contain a
sufficient number of Pachaliks, Beylouks and Spahiluks,
was not the empire large enough to satisfy their utmost
ambition ! On the receipt of this gratif}ing intelligence,
the whole country was in a ferment of delight ; rival
chicfldns, with their dans, fraternized, and in the
exdtement of the moment, four hundred of the noblest
chieftains in Albania, all hereditary Beys, full of con-
fidence in the faith of so good a Mahometan as Mehmet
A
ALBANIA. 121
Reschid, repaired to Bittoglia, to receive their investi-
ture of office. They were met on the frontier by a
guard of honour, who had orders to conduct them in
state to the presence of the representative of the Sultan.
On arriving at Bittoglia, they were received with the
highest military honours; a/eu-de-^'oie announced their
approach ; the tacticoes were drawn out in fiill parade
on the At-meidan, and on they rode, full of hope,
arrayed in the brilliant costume of Albanian chieftains,
through a double hedge of bayonets, towards the kiosk
of the Grand Vizier, who was seated under its tchardak,
surrounded by a crowd of dvil and military officers,
waiting to receive them. No sooner, however, had the
last ill-fated victim of Osmanli treachery, entered the
serried ranks of the soldiery, than at a signal given by
the Vizier, the drums beat the charge, and instantly
a discharge of musketry, sufficient to rend a mountain,
laid that brilliant band of warriors — the pride and
strength of Albania — ^in the dust
One noble fcDow, Arslan Bey, whose quick eye saw
the signal given by the Grand Vizier, suspecting
treachery, at a bound of his horse, cleared a passage
over the heads of the soldiers. In viun he stndned his
noble charger ! in vain he reached the pass leading to
Albania ! he found it in the hands of an enemy that
gives no quarter !
The destruction of the hereditary Beys and chieftuns
of Southern and Central Albania, opened a wide field of
ambition to the Miriditi of the north, who on recdving
intelligence of the massacre, rallied around the standard
122 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of their chief^ Moustapha, and mth loud cries demanded
to be led against the treacherous Vider. Scutari, with
its castle, Rosapha, again rang with the dang of arms,
and agsdn the banner of Scanderbeg replaced the
Crescent The indignation of the Mahometan Miriditi
was equally shared by their generous countrymen of
the Latin creed, who flocked in thousands to the standard
of Moustapha, now without a rival, the Sovereign
of Albania.
At the head of thirty thousand men, the Miriditi
chieftain carried all before him, town after town, fortress
after fortress, opened their gates to the conqueror ; but,
as is ever the case with these savage warriors, pillage,
devastation and slaughter everywhere marked thdr
progress ; and, eager to revenge the massacre of thdr
brethren, they put every Mahometan of Osmanli origin
to the sword, together with every Rayah professing
the Greek religion, who was found bearing arms, or
known to have taken part with the Government of the
Grand Vizier, in the late struggle between the rival
chieft;ain8.
The Grand Vizier, who had made himself so unpopular
by his wholesale destruction of the Beys of Albania,
appears not to have foreseen the hostility of the Miriditi
tribes, particularly the mountaineers adhering to the
Latin creed, the most valiant and the most to be
dreaded, on account of their independent habits and
union. As to the traitor, Moustapha, the worthy son
of a foolish, vain father, subsequent events proved that
he was nothing more than an unwilling agent in the
u
ALUNU. 133
hands of his own troops, and that he was playing from
first to last, ioto the hands of the Grand Vizier. StiD
the peril was great ; a single fiilse stq) at this momeDt
and all %vas lost The Mahometans in every part of die
empire were wavering in their allcgiaoce to the Sultan.
Bosnia was in open rebellioa; twenty thousand bnatie
Mussulmans, under the command of the Zmai od Botn^
were advaDong from that province to meet the AUw-
nians on the plains of Macedonia, who were theo ta
march on Constantinoide, and dethrone the Sultan, la
the face of these evils. It cannot be wondered that even
Mehmet Reschid, however fertile in expediently now
trembled at his own temerify; he saw that he had
merely shorn a few heads, to erect in their place a
hydra more powerful* and fiir more impatient of
Osmonli rule. There was one path still open to him :
"llie Christian dogs, n-cre th^ not also divided in
fiiith, Latin and Greek, the most inveterate enemies at
each othec; if the Latin hound has made cumnon
cause with his brother, the I>jeglu wol^ we will let
loose upon them the Gredi tigers of Epinis 1"
The thought was worthy of Mdunet Resdiid, die
Grand Vizier ; an appeal was made, by his emissaiie^
to the patriotism of the Osmanii, who were told that
the renegades of Bosnia and Albania had iwdn the
destruction of every Osmanii in European Turic^ ; at
the same time, the excesses of the Miriditi latins wen
magnified to the tribes profesdng the Greek rdigicHi,
who were made to believe that th^ had sworn the
massacre of ev^ Christiao differing from them in
124 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
faith; and the atrocities perpetrated hy these tribes,
when employed by Ali Pacha of Jannina, against the
unfortunate schismatics of Souli and Parga, were too
recent to be foi^tten.
The appeal to the passions of the Osmanii, and the
schismatic Greeks, produced the best results — they both
ralfied around the standard of the Grand Vizier ; the
latter even exceeded the Osmanli in devotion, for th^
not only contributed men, but money — half a million of
piastres — towards carrying on the war; this, with a
sum of money sent by the Sultan, enabled the energetic
Grand Vizier to set his army in motion, and march
upon Prilip, where the traitor, Moustapha, without even
securing the posses leading to Bittoglia, was spending
his time in giving costly banquets to his troops. The
open camp and ill-defended town were carried at the
pomt of the bayonet ; at the first shot Moustapha fled,
but the Miridid Latin mountaineer, and the schismatic
Greek Skipetar, now face to face, fought with all the
hatred of £maticism, and the slaughtered Souliots were
at length avenged !
In a country like Turkey, where the record of events,
even the most recent, is confined to the oral tradition of
the people — the songs of the bard, exaggerated, or
distorted, according to the feelings of the interested
party — it is difficult for the stranger to arrive at a real
statement of facts. Knowing this, we have never ven-
tured to put forth a single historical statement, that
was not confirmed to us by some respectable Jew,
Armenian, or Frank merchant settied in the country.
1
>
I
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if
1
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ALBANIA. 1 25
Among the Miriditi of the Latin creed, and the
• Mahometans of Albania in general, the name of the
traitor, Moustapha, is still a by-word of reproach and
horror; on the other hand, his friends maintain that
he fell a victim, like many others, to the dark policy of
the Grand Vizier, who succeeded in corrupting a suffi-
i cient number of chiefs under his command, so as to
1 ensure a certain victory. Be this as it may, on leaving
i the field of battle he shut himself up in his strong
castle, Rosapha, at Scutari, where he still defied the
Grand Vizier, and only capitulated on receiving a full
pardon, and a guarantee for the security of his private
fortune, when he engaged to deUver all papers, and reveal
every secret treaty or agreement which tended to crimi-
nate Mehemct Ali, of Egypt, or any foreign power. It
was now discovered, that both his father and himself
had been the pensioners of Austria for more than half a
century, and that he had entered into a treaty with
Mehemet Ali for the dethronement of Sultan Mahmoud.
It appears, that the ambitious Pacha of Egypt was to
have had the lion's share, Constantinople, Greece and
Asiatic Turkey ; while Moustapha himself, and Milosh,
Prince of Servia, were to divide between them the re-
mainder of European Turkey. In the fall of Mous-
tapha, we record that of the last hereditary chieftun
of Albania, and like the other fiefdoms of bygone
days, the Sultan reserves to himself the appoint-
ment of a dvil governor. Moustapha, however, con-
trived to secure his private fortune, lives in afRuence
at Stamboul, and like a good Mahometan, having
126 TRAVBLS IN BUROPBAN TURKBT.
visited Mecca, now prefixes Hadji to his name in-
stead of Prince.
The Grand Vizier, who was now at the very zenith
of his glory, was suddenly called away to arrest the
progress of Mchemet Ali, who had already assumed the
sovereignty of Syria, and threatened Stamboul. The
intriguing Vizier, who had so successfully triumphed
over the untutored sons of Albania and iBosnia, found
the ruler of Egypt a man of a different stamp, whom
ndther honeyed words nor splendid promises could divert
from an enterprise ; and to add to his misfortunes, the
Nizam, who had triumphed over men having no better
weapon to oppose against the bayonet than the un-
wieldy Amoutka gun, the sword and pistol, when
thq^ saw the steady march of the Egyptian army
bristling with steel, fled in disorder, leaving the poor
Vizier a prisoner in the hands of the enemy. Here
ended the career, military and political, of a man
who will be long remembered in Turkish history.
It is generally admitted, that the Grand Vizier,
Mehmet Rcschid, saved the Turkish empire from
imminent peril, if not total ruin, by the dexterity he
displayed in separating the insurgents of Bosnia and
Albania, before Mehemet Ali had time to advance on
Constantinople. By the destruction of the Mahometan
Beys of Albania, and subsequently that of Moustapha's
army, he struck at the very root of the insurrection, and
damped for a time the military ardour of the most
dangerous and warlike tribes in the Turkish empire;
but the recollection of his perfidy and cruelty, which
ALBANIA. 1 27
have sunk deq>ly into the hearts of the people, and
utterly annihilated all confidence in the faith of their
rulerSy may at some future period be attended with
serious consequences. They are now quite as impa-
tient of Osmanli rule and its reforms, as they were
previous to the administration of the Grand Vizier, and
have proved, during the partial insurrections of 1 836,
'40, '43, '45 and '47, when th^ beat the Nizam in
so many encounters, that they merely need a woloa
among themselves, and a proper understanding with
their compatriots, the Christians, to become a formid-
able enemy to the Turkish Government
The turbulent Toski, who so long fought, bled, and
supported Ali Pacha of Jannina, have suffered the
most severely of all the tribes of Albania. This
splendid race, in every epoch impatient of the rule
of a stranger, and whose chiefs were for the most part
slaughtered at Bittoglia, are still the heart and soul of
every insurrection that desolates this unhappy country.
Their women, with the eye of a gazelle, and the limbs
of an antelope, at once graceful and haughty, yet fiill
of feminine loveliness, cannot fail to win the admiraUon
of the traveDer, however mean may be their attire,
however miserable the ruin in which they live, once
perhaps the turreted castle of an h^^itary chieftain.
The Lapi, who occupy the Kimariot mountains to
the west of Epirus, down to the Adriatic, are less nu-
merous than any other of the tribes of Albania, and
none are so barbarous or ferodous in their customs and
manners. In the time of Scanderbc^ they profisssed
138 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the Latin creed, and were included among hb confede-
ration of the chiefs and thdr dans in Albania. Shep-
herds for the most part, and inhabiting a sterile
mountain dbtrict, they live isolated, in a great measure,
from all communication with the other tribes, and their
creed, for the want of spiritual teachers, is a singular
mixture of the Christian and Mahometan ; those who
reside in the towns and villages on the searcoast
conform to the Greek rituaL These mountain tribes
pay no tribute to the Porte, nor supply a single recruit
to the conscription, without being compeQed by force
of arms; and such is their hostility to the Osmanli
troops, who garrison the few forts in the vicinity of
their mountain home, that I was assured not a single
Turkish soldier can wander beyond the reach of their
cannon, without danger of being shot
The Miriditi tribes, both Christian and Mahometan,
who seem to multiply and gather strength according
to the magnitude of their disasters, still maintain their
rank as the most powerful of all the tribes in Albania.
Since the expul^on of the traitor, Moustapha, these
people have become more national, and having so long
and faithfully battled side by side, in their struggle for
independence, the andent sectarian animosity has in
some measure given way to a more friendly feeling.
This was clearly evidenced only a year or two since,
when Namik Ali Pacha of Scutari, finding he could
not obtain recruits by persuasion, placed himself at the
head of a large body of his tacticoes, feD upon the
villages and towns of the Djeghi Miriditi, and swept
130 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
and when disdplined, they form now, as they have
ever done, the flower of the Turkish army, and being
well fed and sufliciently provided for, generally remain
true to their colours. I have also been assured by
several inteDigent Turkish officers, that they excel every
other nationality in the Turkish empire, in the facility
with which they acquire E\m)pean discipline, and none
are less susceptible of the influence of climate, ackness,
and all the hardships and fatigues incident to the life
of a soldier.
That great discontent prevails in Albania, as well
as in the other provinces of European Turkey, is an
undoubted fact, which ever must be the case in those
countries when the Government is exchanging the bar-
barous rule of centuries for some approach towards a
civilized administration; then the executive must of
necessity sacrifice the interests of the few to the well-
being of the many. In one place we have the Maho-
m^ans, headed by their hereditary chieflains, endea-
vouring to recover by force of arms their lost rights
and privileges ; in another, the Slavonians and HeDenic
Greeks, still subject to the debasing servitude imposed
on the Rayahs — the poll-tax and other grievances, from
which the Mahometan is exempt — ^have become weary
of Turkish rule, and plot sedition ; and perhaps not the
least among these grievances, and of which they loudly
complain, are the grinding taxes, levied upon them
by thdr high clergy, and countenanced by the Turldsh
Government, who n^rd them as civil officers, and
!
ALBANIA. 131
make them accountable to the executive for the obe^ence
of thdr flocks. If to oil this we add an oocaaoual razzn
made upon their proper^ b; some rapadous Maho-
metan in power, we cannot wonder that they ocot-
siomJly resort to arms in self-defeooe.
With so many crils to combat, so many races and
creeds to condliat^ the Turkish empire requires sn
able hand at the helm to steer its course with safttf ;
still the Turkish Government displays much vigour in
subduing apparently insurmountable difficulties, albeil^
in a somewhat ruder style than we are accustomed to
in the West In every pomt of view wo wish the Sultao
success in carrying out the herculean work of rcfonn
hb father, Sultan Mahmoud, had the courage to com-
mence, and which has more than once reduced the
empire to the brink of ruin. We wish him success,
tluough motives of humanity, knowing as we do, that
the evil pasdoos — f^uttidsm and rivalry — c^ so many
races and creeds, must, on the dissolution of Osmaoli
rule in these provinces of Turkey in Europe lead to a
fearful state of aoardiy.
132 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER VI.
An original — ^The Albanian language — Commercial capabilitief
of the country — Its navigable riyeni and lakes — Supmeness
of the Turkish Government — Defects as a ruling power-*-
Sketches of the country — Durazzo — Croia — ^The Doukadjini
— Oros — Alessio — Scutari — Its lake and rivers — Singular
abundance of fish — The Bocca di Cattaro — Its description as
a naval station — How it fell into the power of Austria-^
Blockade of the coast of Albania by the Turkish Government
— Embarrassments of a traveller — ^Asiatic cholera.
Having so far withdrawn the veil that shrouded the
political state of Albania, and recorded the most
striking events in its contemporary history; sketched
the character of the people, their nationality, passions,
tendencies and creeds, with many of their customs and
manners; we will resume our descriptions of the country,
and continue our travels.
We left Ste& for a few days at Elbassan, engaged in
disposing of his wares ; and according to his accounts he
found it a most lucrative station. There was a great
demand among the men for gilt buttons, lace, and
ALBANU. 133
braiduig; and as to the fiiir (iames, Ste& was ahso-
lutdy dazzled with tbor beauty, for in tbdr eager
curiosity to admire the pretty trinkets, they remond
the yashmak, and uncovered their snowy arms and nedc
to tiy OD his necklaces and bracdeta. It was evident
Stefa was a privileged man; how &r his personal
attractions might tend to lull su^idon in thdr IcMrds
we wHl leave the reader to dcdde. In addition to being
strongly marked with the smaD-pox, he bad a pair of
C3CS, which during our travels for and wide we never
saw equalled, one being dark as a sloe, the other green
OS a gooseberry; at the same time, the caprice of
nature had so formed them, that while one of these
ungular orbs stared you full in the face, the other was
gazing at some object in an opposite direction, lliis
was not all, his head terminate in a point somewhat
resembling a sugar-loaf; on the top of it, according to
the custom of the inhabitants, he allowed a tuft of hair
to grow, which by bdng twisted into a knot, added stiD
more to the unnatural height of his head. We recom-
mended him to give up hb trade of hawker, joum^
to Western Europe, and make his fortune by exhibiting
himself as a new spcdes of the genua homo.
At Elbassan I found a most intelligent companion
in M. Nicolo ChapeHi, a Miridili by birth, who having
resided many years with his unde at Trieste, spoke
Italian fluendy. M. Nicolo informed me that the
Albanian language has for its foundatioo the Sanscrit,
and contains all the gutters] sounds of the Cdtic. I
never met with any people that pronounced mth {
134 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
facility our difficult th ; and singular enough, we find
many of our words that have no derivation from the
Saxon, the Latin or Celtic, similar to theirs. The
presence of Greek, Latin, Slavonian, Turkish and Scan-
dinavian words may be explained from the circumstance,
that Albania had been at different epochs under the
rule of these nations. I regret that 1 had no means
of acquiring a more thorough knowledge of this in-
teresting language. ** Zylanders, Sprach der Albanesen,''
with a dictionary I found of some use while travelUng
among the Ejami tribes of Southern Albania, where
they speak a dialect approaching to that of modem
Greek; but among the Miriditi and the Toski, par-
ticularly the latter, who speak their language in all its
purity, I found it of little use.
The great difficulty in composing a grammar of the
Albanian language, consists in the want of a sufficient
number of consonants to give the sound of words, so
as to render them intelli^ble to an Albanian. This is
the reason why the Albanian Bible, printed by the
Bible Society of London, has been found to be so
defective in spreading the truths of Christianity among
these poor benighted people. Among the better classes,
whether Greek or Mahometan, I found these Bibles
pretty generally circulated; but, as usual, where the
iofluence of the Latin clergy extended — for instance,
among the independent tribes of the Miriditi — they
have been denounced as heretical, and excommumcation
threatened to whoever should introduce them to their
families. We, however, sincerely hope that our excel-
ALBANIiL 1 36
lent Society for the Propagation of the Gospel may
stin continue their humane exertions for enlightening
this noble people, who, in spite of their barbarism, are
possessed in a high degree of all the finer quaUties of
man, and capable, if properly instructed, of attdning
a high state of civilization. A great amount of good
might be effected by sending among them a few mis-
sionaries, strangers to political intrigue, who by founds
ing schools and establishments of industry, might
gradually wean them from their predatory habits and
mitigate their fanaticism*
In a commercial point of view, the vast country
inhabited by the Mahometan and Miriditi tribes, known
as the ancient Djigheria, is not without its advantages,
situated as it is between two navigable lakes — Scutari,
near the Adriatic, and Ocrida, at the foot of a chain
of mountains that separates Albania from Macedonia.
Vessels of a hundred tons burden already navigate
the Boiana to within a few miles of Scutari, whence
light steamers, such as we see on the Haute-Loiro
in France, and the Neckar in Germany, could easily
ascend to the lake, and communicate with the independent
tribes of Tchemegora and the Miriditi. At the same
time, the river Drin could easily be made available for
light steamers from the Adriatic to the Lake of Ocrida,
which we have already observed is unequalled for
picturesque beauty, while the neighbouring country is
remarkable for the healthiness of its situation, with rapid
streams suitable for the establishment of manufactures,
and where land might be obtained, we presume, by s
136 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
grant from the Sultan. We have already pointed out
these lines of water communication to the Turldsh
authorities, promising such commercial and political
advantages to the country ; for being situated in the
immediate vicinity of so many independent tribes, at-
tached by the all-powerful influence of religion to
Austria and Russia, the opening of channels for the sale
of their products, which would, bring them in contact
with the great civilized world, these interested powers
would lose their influence ; and the inhabitants, instead
of wasting their energies in their fanatical tchetas of
Romanist against schismatic Greek, and vice versd,
turn their attention to profitable industry and commerce.
To facilitate this measure, Scutari should be declared
a free port, from which a road might easily be laid
down to Nissa, in Bulgaria, connected with that already
made through Scrvia to Belgrade on the Danube.*
An Englishman accustomed to the enlightened ad-
ministration of his own country, immediately perceives
the defects in others; and through a philanthropic
desire to advance the social condition of man, endea-
vours to point out such measures as he thinks will
tend to their improvement; but the question still re-
* In a subsequent visit to Servia, in 1850, I mentioned the
rircumstance to the Minbteni of the Prince of Servia, who at
once assented to my opinion, as to the advantages of a road
communication through these inland provinces to the Adriatic,
which would produce so many commercial benefits, both to Turkish
interests and to Scrvia, and which that active little GoTerament
offered to undertake, sharing the expenses with the Ottoman Porte.
' 1 *
' I ■ ■
: I .«
«
I
ALBANIA. 137
mains. When will Oxey be done? To my certain
knowledge, the Turkish Government for the last tea
years has been contemplating the execution of a plaa
for la}dng down a line of roads intended to intersect
the whole of these pro>inres. At present the favourite
idea is the new system of railroads. We hope this
win not require another tai years* meditation. The
same thing may be said respecting the promulgatioo
of certain equitable laws and reforms tending to the
regeneration of the Turkish empire, but still under
consideration. The defective state of the law connected
with landed property is a severe reproach to the govern-
ment Land is held here on so insecure a tenure,
that we verily believe there is not a single subject of
the Sultan who would venture to affirm, that the acres
he cultivates, and has inherited from his father, be>
longed to him. The Turk had better be on the aler^
and declare himself whether he is to become a Euro-
pean or rcmdn an Asiatia This is not a stand-still
age, the civilization of the West is hsA advancing
upon him, marshalled by its agents — the printing press
and steam navigation, which break down every baniery
and must sooner or later accomplish the sodal rege-
neration of man, a consummation which neither the
ingenuity of priestcraft nor the despotism of princes
can arrest. The Almighty hath willed that the destinies
of man should at length be imderstood, and to further it
He has given us the means.
In the neighbourhood of Elbassan we are eveiywhere
reminded of the energetic rule of the Romans by their
138 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
old paved roads, which branch off to the various towns
in the interior ; and those on the Adriatic, still used
for the transport of merchandize by the pack-horse.
Dourtz, the Durazzo of the Italians, is the nearest sea-
port The ancient Dyrachium, like Elbassan, presents
a mass of ruins; the capacious harbour, once filled
with the proud fleets of Greece and Rome, is now con-
ddered insecure, owing to moimds of sand, the accu-
mulation of centuries.
If we leave Durazzo, arid penetrate into the interior,
passing through Presa and Tirana to Croia, we shall
have an opportunity of studying the military system
of the Romans for the defence of a mountainous
country, in the number of ruined castellated forts
everywhere presented to view, which proved so for-
midable during the time of Scanderbeg to the over-
whelming force of the Osmanli; these, while they
formed an impenetrable barrier agamst the inroads of
the mountaineers, corresponded by a connected line
of towns with their citadels on the Adriatic for the
defence of the sea-coast, proving the value they at-
tached to the possession of Albania.
How many recollections are recalled to the mind
of the traveller who has read Barletti's '' Commentario
delle cose di Turchi,'' on entering the town of Croia !
Here the Albanian hero, Scanderbeg, resisted an army
of a hundred thousand fanatic Turks, under the com-
mand of their most warlike and enterprizing Sultan,
Mahomet II. Of its impregnable fortress, which could
not be taken without starving its garrison, there rcm.iins
ALBANIA. 139
but one tower ; and of the fortifications, whidi so long
resisted the cannon of the infidels, mounds of rubbish.
Croia, however, is still dear to the Albanian as the
capital of his ancient sovereigns, and even now — ^for
tradition never dies — is the favourite theme of the story-
teller and the bard. At present it is a miserable place
— ^an assemblage of huts and ruins, inhabited by Ma-
hometan Miriditi, who having nothing to lose, live on
friendly terms with their compatriots, the independent
Latin Miriditi, who occupy the neighbouring mountdns.
A Turkish Aien with a guard of Amouts maintain,
in the name of the Sultan, possession of the solitary
tower of Croia, or rather, he is permitted to remain
there through the forbearance of the mountsdneers, to
whom he is exceedingly useful in carrying on a little
commerce by bartering powder, and other trifling artides
for their own productions — skins, furs, honey and
wax.
The Doukadjini, or as it is usuaUy termed by the
Turks and Slavonians, Skenderiah, from its being in-
habited by the descendants of the most illustrious
among Scandcrbcg's warriors, commences at Croia,
a mountain district, which, for natural strength of
position, perhaps has not its equal in any country. In
the centre of a deD, surrounded by ramparts of towering
rocks, from which there is no outiet, except by a gorge
so deep and narrow as nearly to exclude the L'ght of
the sun, stands the town of Oros, distant four leagues
from Croia; and here resides the Prink, or chief of
those independent tribes, the Latin Miriditi, as safe
140 TRAVELS IN EUKOPEAN TURKEY.
from invaaon or danger, as if he had pitched his tent
on the solitary rock of Gibraltar. The Doukadjini,
although it forms in itself a little world, is connected
by pathways — and it is said l)y caverns, only known
to the mountaineers — with those districts of the other
free tribes of the Miriditi, to which we have already
referred.
On leaving Croia for Alessio, on the sea-coast,
distant about four leagues, we have to pass through
the dangerous defile of the Mati, now nearly closed in
by steep, lofty rocks ; and again opening into a tiny
valley, also inhabited by the free tribes of the Miriditi,
who here take the name of the Mati, a remarkably
fine race of men, said to be highly civilized; these^
with the Doukadjini, and the tribes located on the
banks of the Hismo and the Drin, form together a
population of about a hundred thousand, and acknow-
ledge no other authority than that of their Prink Doda
of Oros. As to the other tribes of the Miriditi pro-
fessing the Latin ritual, scattered about in various
districts of Upper Albania, together with the Hoti and
the Castrati, dwelling in the rich plains and valleys in
the vicinity of the Lake of Scutori, more or less subject
to the authority of the Sultan; we cannot give an
estimate of their numbers.
Alessio, situated on the River Drin, once so pros-
perous and commercial, is now only remarkable for its
curious castellated church, converted into a mosque, and
containing the open tomb of Scanderbeg. The name
the Turks have given this town, Lesch (tomb), is most
I
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ALBANIA. 141
appropriate, shaded as it b by the dark foliage of the
plane and the cypress, which appear as if weeping over
its destruction. Alessio derives but litde benefit froni
its communication with the sea by the River Drin,
owing to the accumulation of sand-banks. Vessels,
however, firom fifty to sixty tons burden, get as fiur as
Scda, distant a few miles from the town.
On leaving Alessio for Scutari, about seven leagues
further, we have the melancholy spectacle of sedng
before us one of the most fertile (Ustricts in Albania for
the most part a desert, produdng nothing better than
brushwood, with here and there a stagnant pond,
caused by the overflowing of the rivers. Sometimes we
meet with a dump of trees on the dcdivity of a pictu-
resque hill, composed of the w3d fig, the olive and the
pomegranate, shading the ruins of what might have
been at one time a prosperous burgh or a smiling vil-
lage. On approaching Scutari, we have everywhere
indications, such as they are, of the industry of man,
in gardens and culti\^ted fields, with their ^ttie hamlets,
but so primitive in their construction, as to resemble a
heap of oricr tents, covered with reeds.
Scutari, or, as the Turks call it, Iskenderiah (the
town of Scanderb^), is one of the most flourishing
and commercial towns in* Albania, and said to contain
twenty thousand inhabitants; it communicates with
the sea by the lUver Boiana, and has also the advan-
tage of a fine navigable lake — the ancient Labiatis — ^in
its immediate vicinity, together with an extensive plain
of great fertility, where the vme, the olive, and the fig
142 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
arrive to the utmost perfection. Open to the genial
south, and protected by the Tchem^ra mountsuns,
and those of Upper Albania, from the cold winds of
the north and the north-east^ the climate is so mild
that even oranges and lemons are seen growing in the
gardens of the suburbs.
Scutari, the Soodra of antiquity, was a town of great
importance, even in the days of Pyrrhus. History
relates how it was biumed by the Romans, under the
command of Antius, and afterwards ravaged by repeated
hordes of barbarians, when the fine monuments it pos-
sessed were entirely destroyed. In later days, it passed
imder the rule of the princely family of the Bakachisy
the ancestors of Georges Castriot, better known as the
Great Scanderb^ ; when it again became famous for
the number of sieges it withstood from the Turks, par-
ticularly that of its castle, Rosapha, so famous in Vene-
tian history for the gallant defence of Antonio Lore-
dano, who, shut up within its walls, after the town had
surrendered, with only a hundred and fifty men, held
possession against an army of fifty thousand Janis-
saries.
Scutari, with its lake and castle, seated on the
summit of a rock, its moimtains and fertile plain, bears
some resemblance to Ocrida, with this difference, that
if the town of Ocrida is in comparison a village, its lake
is considerably larger, more picturesque, and its environs
fiur more healthy and free from marsh. The Boiana,
also, unlike its rival, the Drin, which flows so rapidly
through the Lake of Ocrida, here rolls its waters slug-
ALBAinA. 143
gishly i hence, we fiad the lake UirxHigh whidi it passes
less dear, nnd occasionally spreading into swamp and
marsh. With respect to fish, peiliq», they are mwv
abundant and diversified m the Lake of Scutari, at least
th^ are better known : carp is frequently caught hen
weighing thirty, and trout, fifty pounds. It is, however,
a fish called by the inhabitants ouklteva, somewhat
resembling a sardine in size and shape, Hiat moBt
deserves notice: these fish abound in all the springs,
mouths of ri^Trs, and rivulets of the lake, in sucfa pro-
digious quantities, as often to rcqiuie the strength of
several men to hatd in the net ; nay, it is said tb^ are
frequently found in such dense masses, as to be easfly
taken with a common pail I Fortunately for the in-
habitants, this Uttle fish, so abundant, is also renowned
for its deUdous flavour, and much sought after by ttw
epicure. When cured, it is sent to every part of
European Turkey, the loniiui Isles and Italy, thai
employing a great number of people in its prqnratioa
and export Each bend in the lake, with its springs
and rivulets — which these people ta-m an odii — ^havo
been the private property of certain tribes horn time
immemorial; among these, the independent tribes of
Tchenii^ra have also thrar fishing ochis on thdr
side of the lake, which yield, it is said, a conraderafale
revenue to the VlatUka.
The season for taking the ouklieva commences about
the latter end of September, and continues through Uie
winter months, always ushered in by the imponng ceT»-
144 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
mony of blessing the lake, which the Vladika of Tcher-
n^ora, and the nominee of the Sultan, the Roman
Catholic Bishop of Scutari, perform in person, each on
his own side of the lake, and as a recompense, receive
from the fishermen a tithe of whatever fish is taken I
lUzonica, better known as the Bocca di Cattaro,
distant two days' ride firom Scutari, is without exception
the roost important station on this side of the Adriatic
During our travels in these provinces, we had fi^uent
occasions to admire the caprice nature displayed in the
formation of the rocks in certain districts, presenting to
the eye a not indifferent model of nearly eveiy species
of architecture. In the Bocca di Cattaro we have the
Angular spectacle of lines of docks, formed by the hand
of nature. To understand this, we have only to imagine
three vast basins running far into the land, and commu-
nicating with each other by narrow passages capable of
being fortified. Entire fleets could find in these deep
and capacious basins an anchorage sheltered fi-om every
wind, and secure from any enemy, however daring.
Impregnable as Cattaro may be from an attack by
sea, to render its defences complete, the possessors of it
should also have the command of the land side ; for,
being in great part surrounded by abrupt mountsdns,
rising to levels, an attack by cannon from any of these
might prove fatal to the safety of the shipping; and
since several of these mountain levels are inhabited by
the warlike tribes of Tchcmegora, who clsdm Cattaro as
their heritage, the possession is not of so much im-
II
^
ALBANIA. 145
portance to Austria as it would be to Rus»a, who, from
religion, and a similarity in language and race, the
mountaineers regard as their natural friend and ally.*
The Bocca di Cattaro dates its origin from so eariy
a period as that of the Illyrian Queen, Teuta, who, whea
driven from her States by the Macedonians, established
herself here with a few followers, who became in process
of time the most formidable pirates on the Adriatic.
This drew down upon them the vengeance of the Car-
thagenians, who destroyed their slups, their towns,
castles and villages. A position so admirably adapted
either to the purposes of commerce or piracy, was not
long deserted, for we find Cattaro, at the commenoe-
\ ment of the eleventh century, a repubhc, under the
protectorate of the Krals of Servia. After passing
through various vidssitudcs of adversity and prosperity
— now threatened with the hostility of the neighbouring
States for piracy, then repulsing the attacks of the
Venetians and the Hungarians, the ruling stars of the
day, and, at a later date, the Turks, under Barbarosa —
we find the little State accepting the protection of the
Lion of St Mark ; to this alliance they remained feithful
tin the fall of Venice, when Cattaro shared the fote of
^ During my subsequent tour in these prorinces, in 185(^ it
was currently reported that Cattaro was to be transferred to
Russia, in part payment for the assistance sbe bad rendered to
Austria in putting down the insurrection in Hungary ; as may
be supposed, the prospect of baying so dangerous a neigbboor
caused no little disquietude to tbe Tnrkisb autboritiea.
VOL. n. L
146 TRAVELS IN BUKOPBAN TURKEY.
the other allies and provinces of that republic ; it was
subsequently transferred, by a decision of the Congress
of Vienna, to Austria.
Owing to the strict blockade maintained by the
Turkish cruisers, for the prevention of the introduction
of arms and ammunition into Albania, I found it impos-
sible to obtain a barque at any of the ports I visited, to
convey me to the Ionian Isles ; I was therefore obliged
to return to Elbassan, and continue my route to Berat
and Avlona. In every point of view, Albania, at this
time, was anything but an agreeable stfjour for a
stranger; in addition to the rumours of revolutionary
outbursts in certain districts of the mountains, I learned
from all the Frank doctors I met with, that the cholera
was everywhere making dreadful havoc, no doubt aggra-
vated by the excited state of the people.
It appears that the Asiatic cholera first made its
appearance in these provinces in 1830, when the mor-
tality was fearful; it again showed itself in 1845,
and each successive year up to 1 850 ; but whether the
virulence of the disease had exhausted itself, or that it
was better understood, its attacks every year assun^ed a
milder character. To counteract the effects of a malady
which had already decimated the population, and threat-
ened to continue its ravages, the Turkish Government so
far awoke from its sluggishness as to invite medical men
from Germany and Italy, and encoiu-aged them to settle
in the country by giving them high salaries, and securing
to them all the rights and privileges usually accorded to
J.
5
i
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I I ALBANU. 147
r .J
a Frank. Consequently, we now find in every large
town a Frank doctor, with a dispensary for the relief of
the poor.
During my excursions, I always made it a point to
\dsit these gentlemen, from whom I gleaned many
\ ' particulars relative to Asiatic cholera, aU of whom
I agreed as to its causes, and the cbsscs of the population
most subject to it It first made its appearance in
those parts of a town badly ventilated, in narrow streets,
and covered bazaars, striking down the indigent, and
then gradually spreading to every class of society, but
showed itself less virulent where its effects were counter-
acted by cleanliness and better aired dwellings. In
these provinces of Eui'opean Turkey, where there is such
a diversity of races and creeds, its effects were most
remarkable, and equally disastrous — whether it was
provoked by intemperance, or aggravated by previous
abstinence; which proves that a temperate regimen is
the surest preventive against an attack. On Fridays,
the Sabbath of the Mussulman, when these people are
accustomed to indulge in debauchery, a ten-fold number
of cases invariably occurred ; the Sabbath of the Jews,
and the Sunday and other fete days of the Christians,
when they assemble to drink and carouse, produced the
same results. On the other hand, during the fasts of
the Jews, the Ramadan of the Mahometans, and the
long abstinence which the Greek Church imposes
upon its followers, its effects were found to be equally
&taL
I 1
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L 2
148 TRAVELS m EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER VII.
Jomrnej to Berat — ^Turkish karaonl — Fortanate rencontre—
Crossmg the moontains — Bivouac among the Zinzars — Their
hospitality — Pope Michaeli — Desolate aspect of the country —
Fertility — Agriculture — Productions — Exports and imports-
Austrian commerce — English Consuls — Plain of Berat — Town
and fortress — Caraman Bey, the Governor — Preparations to
repel an attack of the rehels — Alarming reports of the Alba-
nian insurrection — Departure from Berat — Battle between the
Nixam and the insurgents — Defeat of the Nizam — Fortunate
escape.
On our route to Berat we again passed through
Elbassan, and followed for some time the charming
banks of the Scoumbi. After crossing the same
singukr old bridge with its twelve arches, to which
we have before referred, we entered the gloomy defile
of the Deole, with its torrent-like stream, now easy to
ford, but highly dangerous when the waters are swollen.
We were now in the country of the Toski tribes, whom
Stefa stigmatized most unjustly as the roost fenxnous
bandits in Albania ; and with his usual timidity, deter-
ALBANIA. 149
mioed not to move an inch fiuiher tfarongli umA a
cat-throat gorge and forest than the han, unkas in
company with other travdiers. Here we also fimnd a
karaoul, guarded by half a dozen of the kavaas, wlio
agreed to accompany os through the dangerous part of
the forest for a certwi number of piastres. I was oo
the point of conduding a bargain, when a party of wdU
mounted Albanians rode up, fine, stout fellows, armed
to the teeth. On learning the cause of our detention ;
the timidity of Stefa, in sedng danger, where none
existed ; and the attempt of the kavaas — those guanfiana
of the highway — to fleece the pocket of a stranger ; tfaqf
became highly indignant, more espcdally as th^ con-
sidered the character of their countrymen was d^raded
in the eyes of a Frank travdler.
With so timdy a reinforcement we commenced the
ascent of the mountain through a gloomy forest of
splendid oak, intermingled with wild fruit-trees, here
and there endrded with the vine, which runmng firom
tree to tree, formed an impenetrable bower over our
heads ; this continued till we got to the region of the
pine, and landed on a beautiful plateau, where we found
a hamlet inhabited by a few shepherds, who Hve here
far removed from the usual haunts of man. As the
shades of evening approached we got to the village of
Kouschova, inhabited by a tnhe of Walladiians, or
Zinzars, where we determined to remain for the nighti
whQe our companions, who were better mounted, con-
tinned their route to BeraL
We had scarody commenced our preparations for
150 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
passing the night, when our bivouac was interrupted
by Pope Michaeii, and the elders of the viUagc, who
kindlj invited me to take up my residence at the prin-
cipal konak of their tribe. On declining the invita-
tion, these good people, who always regard a Frank,
from a similarity of language, as their compatriot,
hospitably provided me with abundance of provisions.
How singular is the tenadty with which man adheres
to the language and the customs of his race. Although
centuries upon centuries have passed over since these
people have been the slaves of successive tyrants, still
they are enabled to hold converse with the stranger in
the bold, graphic language of ancient Rome ; and truly.
Pope Michadi in his long flowing robes, fuU patriarchal
beard, hooked nose, strongly marked features, majestic
person, and fiery eye, was not an unworthy represen-
tative of a people who were once the lords of the
world. It hath been truly said, that even if rocks
were cultivated in peace, they would furnish man with
bread; whereas the most fertile lands, exposed to
anarchy and war, produce a Amine. Since we left
our village we had not seen a single hut, not even a
shepherd, although there was sufficient pasture, and
the soil here and there on the slopes of a Ught cal-
careous nature, well adapted to the cultivation of the
lone. The same desolation continued till we arrived
at one of those rapid streams, half dry in summer and
a torrent in winter; here we found a few straggling
huts surrounded by patches of maize, cotton and
tobaooo.
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ALBANIA. 151
As may be presumed, in a country so long the
theatre of misrule, agriculture, and every species of
mechanical industry is still in its infancy ; the plough
is as simple as it was in the days of the first patriarchs
of the world ; the share is of wood, and where the soil
is of a strong argillaceous nature, the extremities of the
curve is armed with pieces of iron. A carpenter, with
a saw, a hammer and a hatchet, builds a house,
fashions a table and a chest of drawers ; and it is only
in the large towns that we see him make use of a
gouge or a chisd.
I Although Albania is bristUng with mountains, and
exposed to every variety of temperature, it is neverthe-
less extremdy fertile. The calcareous and argiUaoeous
earth, of which many of the mountains are composed,
is weQ calculated to repay the labours of the agricul-
turist, while the number of valleys, extensive basins,
gorges and plateaus, with their fluviatic productions,
petrifactions, and deposits of vegetable matter— evi-
dences of the deluge — are fertQe beyond all expression,
and capable of mmntaining several millions of human
bdngs.
Magnificent forest trees are seen rearing their heads
to the skies among pinnacled rocks, wherever th^ can
find suflicient nourishment to take root Grsdn, with-
out any choice of seed, is simply thrown into the
ground, with hardly any tillage, and no manure what-
ever, and produces notwithstanding abundant crops.
The olive-trees, some of the finest in any part of the
worid, may be seen growing to perfection at a
i
153 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
height of six hundred feet, with this great advantage,
that they are not, as in other countries, subject to
injury from the caterpillar. Every part of the soil,
whether on the pkdn or the mountain top, seems to
suit thb valuable tree; since we find the wild olive,
intermingled with the more hardy tree of the forest,
evoi at a height of three thousand feet. The pome-
granate, the fig, and the white mulberry, are every-
where favourites of the soil; and in peculiarly good
situations, the orange and the lemon attain great per-
fection; these, with the almond, pears, peaches,
quinces, apricots, medlars, and other fruit-trees, are
found in the orchards, all of which might be improved
if any pains were taken in cultivating them.
Where a mattock is used instead of a spade, v^e-
tables cannot be expected to arrive at perfection;
spinage, artichokes and lettuces, are among the best;
the tomata is veiy fine, so are the cucumbers and
melons of every spedes. Mint, parsley, balm, fennel,
sage, and a variety of other garden herbs are found
cverj'where growing wild ; and of every other country,
' this should be visited by the botanist and horticulturist.
On the banks of every rivulet we see beds of lilies,
hyacinths, jonquils, narcissus, and hundreds of other
beautiful flowers, plants and flowering shrubs. Every
situation, every region has its peculiar productions, to
the very rock which is here and there carpeted with
peppermint, and the most beautiful mosses that can
be conceived. Then the different zones of forest trees,
alpine and subalpine, where we find every species of
K
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ALBANIA. 153
oak, with box, juniper, laurels, m}Ttles, and the tree of
Judea, wQd almonds, and other fruit-trees and parsr
sitical plants. These, with the ash that yields the
manna, the chesnut, nut-trees, the silk-tree with its
beautiful tufts, the alkina which produces the aurorm
colour for dying, so much admired in TWkq^f the
schumach, the valona, and the pine, upon the oold
barren mountain, might be converted into so niany
articles of commerce; if tlus highly favoured country
were but peaceful, and its energetic inhabitants taught
industry and profitable speculation.
In every age Albania has been famous for the fine
flavoiur of its honey, derived fix)m the MiDissa and
other numberless aromatic plants and flowers of the
valley and the mountain* The bees are for the most
part wild, and make their nests in the fissures of the
rocks and hollow trunks of the trees; the honqr it
generally white, and the wax of a superior quality, and
forms a very considerable article in the exports of the
country. Silk is not produced in any quantity, and
rarely or ever sold out of the country. The cotton
plant, tobacco and rice thrive remarkably welL
It would appear from the quantity of Austrian
ducats, dollars and zwanzigers found circulating in
Albania, that the principal commerce is in the hands of
Austrian traders. The commodities usually exported
consbt of wood for ship building, three or four cargoea
of oil, the same of raw wool, cotton, tobacco, and hidea^
and one or two of Morocco leather, sdiiunadi and
valona nuts, and sometimes cattle and corn to die
154 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Ionian Isles. The ioiportaUons consist of calicoes and
woollen doths, gold and silver lace, fire-arms^ tin wares
coffee, sugar, indigo, cochineal, trinkets, and some iron-
mongery, and the Turkish red fez now generally worn.
They have also b^un to import window-glass some-
what largely, together with mirrors, paper, furniture, and
sundry other little artides of luxury for their houses
and dinner-tables.
It appears to an English traveller altogether inex-
plicable, that notwithstanding we maintain a little army
of consuls and vice-consuls in European Turkey, oiu*
trade with these provinces is rapidly passing into the
hands of the Austrians. It b true these gentlemen are
better psdd than the officials of any other country, and
holding as they do a high rank among the inhabitants,
they may think it degrading to trouble themselves
about such vulgar subjects as the sale of cottons and
Sheffidd wares. To be convinced of this, we have only
to wander through the bazaars and other places where
merchandize is exposed for sale, and we shall find the
balance of English manufactured goods sadly against us.
On approaching Berat, we observed some traces of
industry; the hills were laid out in vines, and the
fidds appropriated to pasture and agricultural piu*-
poses; buffaloes wallowed on the marshy banks of
the river, and flocks and herds, with their primitive
shepherds, imparted an Arcadian aspect to the land-
scape.
Berat, the andent Antipatria, is one of the most
imposing towns in Albania, and forms, with its fortress
ALBANIA. I S5
on the summit of a rock, a most fuctaresque ol^ect in
the distance. Tbe Loum, the ancient Apsus, divides
the town, over which is thrown a better bridge than is
usuaDy seen in these countries ; this leads to the quarter
inhabited bj the Mahometans, with thor neat gardens
and fountains, where we find several houses that might
be admired for thdr architecture
The possesion of Berat, with its strong fivtns^
utuated in the centre of Albania, between the two great
towns, Jannina and Scutari, and commandii^ all tbe
passes leading to them, is deemed of great importanoe
by the Ottoman Forte, and always placed under tbe
command of an Osmanli Mahometan, whose fidditj
can he depended upon. Caramon Bey, who was the
governor at this critical moment, had only from eig^t
to nine hundred men to make bead against an insurreo-
tion which was said to be advancing upon him in evexj
direction. The dtadel, with its fortifications, whidi
endose the konak of the governor, the barracks of the
Nizam, and a few hundred houses, still remain in
tolerable preservation ; but it has the misfortune^ like
many others in Albania, of bdng situated on e
calcareous rock, without any water hut that derived from
a dstem, and of bang commanded by a more elevated
height, whence it could easily be destroyed. However,
as this would require artillery, and a more scaentifio
warrior than the insuigent chief of Albania, the Bey
considered Mmsdf sufficiently strong with his twen^
cannon to repulse any attack of the rebda.
It was evident that the governor, Caraman Bey,
156 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
expected a visit from these turbulent subjects of the
Ottoman Porte, by his ordering the inhabitants of the
Lovfer Town and the suburbs to send, without delay, all
their valuables for safety to the citadel. This produced
a most ludicrous scene among the usually indolent, apa-
thetic inhabitants of a Turkish town. Porters were at a
high premium, and as there did not happen to be a suf-
ficient number of these gentry to meet the demand, many
a fet, wealthy Turk, Jew, Greek, or Armenian, was obliged
to bend and groan under the weight of his own coffers.
In one place might be seen an entire family,
endeavouring to haul up the steep sides of the hill an
enormous trunk, of most antique shape, boimd with
bands of brass half a foot in breadth. In another, fair
Mahometan dames endeavouring to hold the yashmak
about their faces, while they rested for a moment to
recover the breath they had well nigh lost under the
weight of thdr packages. There was the old and the
young, the sick and the infirm, the suckling babe and
the cat of the fire-side ; in short, all included among the
privil^ed dass, or who had the means, were hastening
for protection to the cannons of the fortress, and to add
to thdr discomfort, the sun was poiuing down a fiood
of heat almost insupportable.
It was, however, the Upper Town that presented a
succession of scenes never to be forgotten ; there the
better dass of merchants and traders, who could not
find admittance into the houses, already crowded with
refiigees, were to be found -encamped in the streets,
qiuedy seated on their little carpets in the midst of
ALBANIA. 157
pyramids of provisions and packages, oonteotedlj pur-
suing the usual occupations of life— cooldng, eating,
drinking, smoking and sleeping. Others of an inferior
grade, were grouped along the inner walls of the
fortifications, where they lay encamped, pursuing anular
employments.
In the midst of all this hubbub and confuidon, where
every man appeared to be engaged in an affiur of fife
and death, poor Stefa was at his wit's end. We had
received accounts since our arrival here, of an insur-
rection of the Djeghi Miriditi at Elbassan, Tirana and
Croia ; therefore, to retrace his steps, or to go forward,
presented equal danger ; and he knew, if he left my
service and remained at Berat, the assbtance of himself
and his horses would be demanded by the authorities^ in
the name of the Sultan. My distracted kiraidji was
therefore most desirous we should forthwith take to the
road ; but the cunning fellow, e\^er alive to his interest,
deposited his money and the more valuable part of
his stock in the hands of a trusty friend, and replenished
his bags with the most flimsy and least expen^ve
articles he could purchase, particularly knitted cotton
skull-caps, which the Albanians wear under the fee
These he knew would be most acceptable, and put the
Philistines in good humour, should he by any mishap
fall into their hands ; while the loss to him would be
trifling. He had also the consolation to hear fiiom
several travellers who had met with the insurgents, that
they had hitherto conducted themselves remarkably wdl,
not having been guilty of any act of hostifity, other
158 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
towards the person or the property of the Rayah in-
habitants, or the traveOer.
We left Berat and its anxious inhabitants under the
escort of two hundred tacticoes, dispatched by Caraman
B^, to occupy a portion on the route leading to
Avlona; and truly, as we wound oiu* way through
a defile of Mount Scrapari, and saw with what facility
a few dozen of insurgents who might be in possession of
the heights could have maltreated us, I regretted that I
had not been travelfing alone with my kiraidji, Strfa.
Happily, we arrived at a small village on the torrent
Vajoutza without molestation, where we passed the
night at a miserable han, filled with tadiooes.
The following morning found Stefa in a fever of
excitement; the villagers had alarmed him with their
accounts of the insurrection. Among other things, that
the rebels were in possession of aU the passes leading to
the adjoining mountains, and that the great chief of the
insurrection, Giulika, having succeeded in rallying
round his standard the Lapi, the most ferodous of
all the Albanian tribes, was advancing upon Avlona for
the purpose of preventing the landing of troops, sent by
sea to assbt in putting down the insurrection. Stefa,
consequently, was determined to return to Berat, and
await the conclusion of events; but as I knew he
always magmfied, and often created danger, I determined
to proceed. This time, however, he was inexorable,
and neither offers of money, nor any blustering of mine
about the necessity of fulfilling his contract to conduct
roe to Avlona, could prevail — the stars were unpro-
ALBANIA. 159
[ntious^ his dreams ommoos of evil — in shorty eroy
omen in the Book of Kismet bade him return to Bent
I had no other alternative but to get into the saddle ;
however, instead of turning my horse's head to Beral» I
galloped tovrards Aviona, feding certain that I should
presently be joined by a man, vrho valued his horse
more than he dreaded a meeting with the idids. FSoor
Stefa, finding that ndther threats nor entreaties could
influence an obstinate Frank, who had once made up his
mind upon a subject, burst into a violent flood of tean^
and invoking the P^uiagia, and all the Sunts in the
Greek calendar, to come to his as»stance (whidi at
length showed me that he was really a member of the
Greek Church), with great philosophy reagned himsdf
to the decrees of IGsmeL
After riding about half an hour, we met a cavalcade
of horsemen, accompanied hy a troop of the kavaas,
galloping furiously, as if followed by a host of demons.
We aftarwards learned that this was the Governor and
the prindpal oflicers of Avlona, who, on the first inti-
mation of danger, left the town to its own resources,
and made their escape to Berat These were speedQy
followed by another cavalcade of the dtizens, who, with
doleful countenances, assured us that Avlona was
actually in possesdon of the insurgents ; therefore, mudi
to the satisfaction of poor Stefa, I fdt myself compdled,
by the (one of drcumstances, to join the fugitives ; but;
alas! on arriving at our village, we found that the
tacticoes had succeeded in throwing up a barricade; and
with a pdr of rusty cannon, awaited, in the most
160 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
phlegmatic manner possible, ^n attack of the insur-
gents, who were mustering strong on the shelving hills.
With some difficulty, we persuaded the hanji to unbolt
his doors and admit us. It was scarcely possible to
refrain from laughing at the scene I now witnessed
among these timid Rayahs, who, notwithstanding all
thdr precautions, found themsdves in the midst of the
insurrection. Such lamentations, wringing of hands,
crossings, and prayers to the Saints for protection, were
never before either seen or heard. Fortunately, I found
among the inmates one man of stronger nerves — an
Italian trader, Signor Boridini — and having with him
ascended a hay-loft, after undoing a few tiles, we con-
trived to obtain a glimpse of what was passing between
the beDigerents.
It was easy to see, from the stealthy pace of the
insurgents in the hollows of the adjoining hills, that
they were not to be decoyed within range of the cannon,
which the tacticoes had taken so much pains to conceal,
and that they were only waiting for the shades of night,
or some favourable opportunity, to cross the torrent
Vajoutza, and fall upon their enemy, who had no retreat
more secure than the mud huts of a straggling village.
Hitherto the contending parties had been content
with firing at each other a few harmless volleys of
musketry, to the great terror of the poor Rayahs of the
village; the tacticoes, on their side, dreading to leave
their intrenchments, and the insurgents, on the other,
held at bay by the much dreaded cannon. Suddenly
the firing ceased, and messengers seemed to be passing
II
ISI
1
and 're-pas^ng between the combatants. It was endent
: they could not come to terms, since the commander,
I despairing of any as^stanoe &om Bemt, had takea
I the resolution of forcing his way to that town, no
] doubt rdying on the dread his pmr of cannon must
I inspire among the insurgents. These dreadful imple-
ments of ^rar vers quickly harnessed, and with lighted
matdies, the tacticoes commenced th^ march, whea
lo I a party of Avell-mouDted cavaliers, who seemed to
rise out of the hiQs, bore down upon them with a
horrible yclL The cannon was brought to bear upon
them ; but, alas ! one burst, and the other would not
ignite. AH was now over with the tacticoes, and to
save their lives, they fraternized with the rebels, allowing
their officers to be made prisoners. The victorious
party, with shouts of triumph, firing of guos, and
brandishing of weapons, now poured into the village,
where they remained a short time refreshing them-
selves, and now rc-inforoed by two . hundred muskets
and ammunition, continued their march to Avlona.
The transition from war to peace was so rapid, that
it appeared more like a dream than a reality : it is true,
a bloodless victory usually blunts the passions of men,
still, I doubt that any body of insurgents, even in the
most dvilized countries of Western Europe, could have
conducted tbemsdiixs better. I need not say how
thankfril we fdt at having escaped from so dangerous
a position; and now, having nothing to prevent us
pursuing our route, we lost no time in returning to
the strong town of Berat
162 TRAVELS IN BUROPEAM TURKEY.
CHAPTER VIII.
Retom to Berat — Embarrassments of a traveUer — Journey from
Berat to Jannina — Fellow-travellers — English courier — Turkish
kiraidji — Description of the country — Melancholy effects of the
Albanian insurrection — Guerillas — Characteristic of the moun*
taineers — Defile of the Grouka — ^Town of Klisoura — Encamp-
ment of gipsies — Arrival at Premetti — Ruins of an old Chris-
tian church — Miraculous well — Legend attached to it — Mag-
nificent scenery — ^An Albanian Skela — Ancient bridge — Moun-
taineers— Villages — Ruins — Dangerous effects of the bite of
a snake — How to prevent them — Escape from drowning —
Bivouac
The reader, whose object is to become acquainted
with the aspect of a country, and the character and
manners of its inhabitants, will probably take but little
interest in the fate of the traveller ; we have, therefore,
refrained from overloading this work with personal
adventures, startling incidents and anecdotes, which,
however amusing they might be to some people, would
not tend to make these countries better known to the
dvilized inhabitants of Western Europe. We vnlLi
ALBANIA. 163
then, mcrdy say, that our adventure ¥dth the insiir-
gents on the banks of the Vajoutra had so terrified
Stcfa, that having now got within the strong walls of
Berat, he vowed he ne\'er would again endanger his
life by travelling with a Frank, particularly an IngleskL
This determination of Stefio^ in these troublesoms
times, must have proved a serious embarrassment^ had
I not, at the house of my Jew banker, met with Fietro
Albret, the courier of the EngHsh Consul, Mr. Dami^
schino, at Jannina, who was on his way to that town
with despatches from the Vice-Consul at ScutarL
Pietro, who was a native of Albania, and well ac-
quainted with the country, lost no time in procuring
me a Turkbh kiraidji, with a pair of capital horses.
In addition to Pietro, we had for our companions a
Miriditi Bey from the neighbourhood of Scutari, and
a Spanish Jew, bound for Smyrna; who, having
travelled in various parts of Europe, spoke Italian
fluently, and was far more intelligent than the gene-
rality of travellers in these provinces. To add to our
amusement, Hadji Ismael, the kiraidji, who had visited
Mecca, was a professed stor}'teller, and one of the best
tempered, jovial fellows living.
On leaving Berat, our route lay through the valley
of the Loum, which continued to contract, as we ad-
vanced, till it became a defile. After an bourns ride we
forded the river, and turning to the right, ascended the
steep sides of one of the lesser heights of Mount
Scrapari, whence we enjoyed a fine prospect of Berat
and its extensive plain, through which were seen roDby
164 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the Loum and the Laparda, the whole encircled by a
diain of mountains capped by the gigantic Tomor,
still streaked with the snows of winter. Although at
a height of at least a thousand feet above the defile of
the Loum, we continued our ride over a fertile district
with numerous rivulets and abounding in forest trees ;
it was, however, entirely without inhabitants. The
ruins of villages with their little castles, once the resi-
dence of some hereditary chieftain, told the sad tale
of the desperate and unceasing determination of these
unhappy people to preserve their feudal institutions.
On leaving thb wilderness and ascending still higher,
we entered a district broken up into defiles and deep
gorges with their tiny rivulets. Here we found every
spot cultivated, while numerous flocks of sheep and
goats were to be seen wandering through the forests
and pinnacled rocks in search of pasture; there were
also several pretty hamlets dotted about on the shelnng
sides of the hills. My companion informed me that
those among the inhabitants of the desert we passed
through, who escaped the massacre and havoc which
succeeded some former insurrection, took refuge in this
mountain retreat, and continue to repel every attempt
of the executive to tame them into subjection. Such
is ever the case with these warlike tribes, who, although
they have been from time to time decimated, their
fiefdoms ravaged, and their chieflains exterminated or
driven into exile, retire into some inaccessible district,
and as they gather strength, still breathing war and
revenge, break out agsdn into insurrection.
ALBANIA. 1 65
Unhappy Turk^ ! by these oontioiud oontesto with
its Mahometan subjects, so violently opposed to reSann^
it exhausts its resources and involves the fiitora in
darkness. On the other hand, the Albanians, whether
from an instinctive consdousness of thdr own supe-
riority as warriors, disdun resorting to the arts of
intrigue for obtaining an underhand advantage over
an enemy, or that they are really deficient in the ainfilj
to concert, and carry into effect a wdl-digested plm
of conspiracy, certiun it is, thqr rardy sooceed in anj
of their insurrections ; their plots are always iD-digestec^
conducted without plan or union, and in the ezdte*
ment of the moment they fall upon the enemy with-
out regard to position or numbers. It is only in the
mountain that they are invulnerable, excdling eveiy
other people as guerillas; and although cut off from
all communication with their neighbours, and fi»ced
to live upon roots, and such food as the chase may
procure, they never give up the contest, and at length
by their perseverance, harass and weary out the strongest
and most valiant army.
We all know that in every country, however civilized,
a difference in religious opinions among a people eveo
of the same race, ever proves a curse, since it is certain
to be made use of by a host of intrigmng priests for
the furtherance of political views. How mudi greatar
is this evil in a country like Turkey, where the reigning
power is not only a stranger in race, but bound by its
laws and creed to deny the truth of a region pro*
fesscd by the great miyority of the people. The
166 TaAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Mahometans may rebd, and dispute the introduction
of this or that refonxii still there is a hope of a union.
This is for ever impossible between a Mahometan ruler
and his Christian subjects, who regard every benefit
he confers upon them as a proof of his weakness, and
every victory he achieves over his refractory Mussulman
subjects, as so many interpositions of a merciful Provi-
dence, gradually working out their deliverance from the
thraldom of an infidel ruler.
We passed the night at a Mahometan village on
the summit of the Trebeshana) where we found a
multitude of armed moimtsuneers, evidently prepared
to assist Giulika in his insurrection, now the hero of
the Mussulman party opposed to reform in Albania.
They were a very fine body of men, in nothing changed
fit>m their ancestors ; there was the same profile, the
same tall, erect, athletic figure, that we see here and
there portrayed among the warriors sculptured on the
monuments of ancient Greece and Rome. This is the
more singular, since in other mountain districts of
Europe, where the inhabitants live isolated, the race
deteriorates.
The houses of these mountaineers, the Toski, resemble
those of the free mountsdncers, the Miriditi ; like them,
thpy are usually buUt of stone, and invariably erected on
some steep declivity, or hollowed out of the rock, so as
to resemble a little fortress, approached by steps cut in
the rock, or by a plank thrown over a precipice, with a
single opening in the side, and not unfirequently on the
top, which serves as a chimney for the EtcvcALe \a ^%ic»^
ALBANIA. 167
and at the same time as a door of entrance, for in this
land of strife every other consideration is sacrified to a
good defensive position. Those inhabited by the chie&
^ are more commodious, and stronger built, having little
windows, open in summer, and closed with paper
instead of glass during the winter. Tlie interior of
some of them is even painted with landscapes, battles
and scenes from the chase.
' The worst trait in the character of the Albanians, of
whatever tribe or creed, is their implacable vengeance —
an injury is nc^'er forgiven. On the other hand, they
are deeply susceptible of kindness, and display towards
each other nil the social \-irtucs that distingvush tha
inhabitants of more civilized countries. The same ex-
citable temperament that leads them to pursue a wrong
even to death, shows itself in the enthusiasm with
which they give , their cattle and provisions to the
unfortunate tribe who may fly to ihem fur shelter. At
the same time, their unbounded attachment to thur
' chiefs, and their hospitality to the stranger shine out in
i bright rdie£
I The duties of hospitality, not in this district alone,
but cver)'whcre among the Albanian tribes, are held
. so sacred, that the stmngcr who has once eaten, or
even smoked with one of their people, receives the
title of soloidnik (friend of the tribe), and he is never
addressed by any other epithet than that of am via
(my brother), a man whom all are bound to defend with
their lives, and see safe on his journey. This i
168 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
patriarchal custom is the principal reason that we never
hear of the assassination of a stranger among these sim-
ple-minded mountaineers, except from political motives ;
such deeds are invariably confined to the neighbourhood
of some laige town, where the inhabitants are more
immoral, and know better the value of money.
At eariy dawn we left our han, and following a deft
in the rocks, soon foimd ourselves in the gloomy depths
of the Grouka defile, with the mountain, like a wall of
masonry, towering high above us, and the Stena-ai
foaming at our feet. This defile leads to Klisoimt, one
of the most singular built towns in Albania, perched at
a considerable height up the steep sides of a rocky
mountain, without a tree or a shrub to relieve its
dreariness. The town contains about two hundred
houses, grouped around a castle, built by Ali Pacha
of Jannina, for the defence of this important pass. We
sought in vain for the remains of the fortress where
Philip, one of the last Kings of Macedonia, is said to
have taken refuge when pursued by the Romans.
Having taken a slight collation and smoked a tchi-
bouque with old Ali Meta, the Governor of Klisoura,
we continued our route along the banks of the Konitza,
rushing like a torrent over its rocky bed. We passed
several Mahometan tombs, many of them of d^ant
architecture. Here we found very considerable ruins,
but of no later date than the sanguinary rule of Ali
Pacha. We bivouacked for the night within the walls
of what had been a fortified castle, said to have been
ALBANU. 1 69
bunt by Prince Moussa, or Hamsa, one of the mort
famous among the chieftains of the Toski, the friend
and conmide in anns of Scanderbeg.
We found in a corner of the ruin an encampment
of gipsies, as naked as if they had been savages ; the
women soon flocked around us, entreating to tdl our
fortunes. Pietro and our feSow-travdlera jesting^ de-
posited a handful of paras, to which I added a silver
zwanziger, which we promised to bestow upon them if
their divining art could teD of what country I was m
native ; my dress and manners indicated I was a FVank,
but from what part of Frangistan appeared imposdble
for them to ascertain ; my dark ludr and bronzed com-
plexion, bespoke a Spaniard or an Italian, and my
features were not moulded in any peculiar national type.
The young sybils shook their heads in despair; not
so an old crone, who hobbled out from a heap of
rags, so withered and wrinkled that she might have
passed for a mummy restored to life. After having
examined my form and features most attentive^, to
the utter astonishment of my companions and mysd^
the old witch swept off the coins, as she exultingly
exclaimed, ** Ingleski !" TUs was the more singular,
since I had not uttered a syllable in her presence ; nor
could she have had the slightest intimation, as to who
or what I was, from any of my companions.
On arriving at Premetti, we crossed the Konitza
over a noble bridge, built during the palmy days of
the Eastern empire. The town contdns about three
thousand inhabitants, principally Mussulmans^ and a
170 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
small community of Christians of the Latin Church.
The most remarkable object at Premetti is the ruins
of a Greek church, built on the summit of a rock, with
a miraculous well of the purest spring water. Tradition
relates that St Paul preached in the church, and blessed
the water ; hence it attracts numerous Christian pilgrims
who flock hare from every part of these provinces, to
drink the water, some to be absolved of their sins, and
others to be healed of their maladies ; but in order to
visit it, they must be provided with a permit from the
governor ; and as payment is exacted for this document,
the revenue it yields him is very considerable ; hence
the post of Governor of Premetti is much sought after
by a Turkish officiaL
On leaving Premetti, we entered a district presenting
the most wild and magnificent scenery ; there was the
pinnacled heights of Mount Ergenik, and the long ridge
of the Nemertska, frowning down in all their grandeur
on a lesser chaos of rock, with their dark forests,
gorges and defiles, at the base of which was seen grow-
ing some of the finest fruit-trees and flowering shrubs
peculiar to a highly-favoured climate. We had, how-
ever, a dangerous ascent before us, up the steep sides
of a moimtain, which my companions termed the
Scela, a species of road which may be compared to a
ladder. It was certainly frightful enough, as we turned
an angle and caught a glimpse of the roaring river
beneath. At one time a jutting crag stood before us,
obliging us to steal cautiously round its base; then a
mountain seemed to preclude all further progc^i^^ NI'Sl
i
i
1
I
ALBANIA. 171
1 we spied a deep deft in the rocks, wet and slippery with
the spray of a tiny cataract, through which we had to
struggle with our horses. Happily we did not meet
with a caravan, or even a single traveQer; otherwise^
I one must have turned back to let the other pass, for
the path was so narrow as to preclude the posdbility
of two horses passing abreast
On descending our mountain pathway, we again
came upon the Konitza, and again crossed it over one
of those singular ancient bridges, so peculiar to these
provinces generally formed of one arch, very high,
narrow, and without a parapet The river here unites
with the Leskovitza torrent, and forms a very pretty
peninsula, supposed to be the site of the Castro-Phirri,
where Philip took refuge after his defeat at Klisoura.
There are certainly the ruins of what might have been a
fortress, with its outer walls and defences, which now
served us admirably as a screen from the burning sun
during our noon-day bivouac. We also found in the
vicinity the extensive ruins of a monastery, and several
populous villages inhabited by Albanian Mussulmans,
who live in this remote mountain district in a state
bordering upon independence. Every spot was wdl
cultivated, a proof, even among these half-wild moun-
taineers, that fi-eedom and industry march hand in
hand ; there was a mill set in motion by the waters of a
cataract, and every drop of water was carefully oon^
ducted into reservoirs, to be employed in irrigating thdr
tiny plots of arable and pasture land; the maize
appeared to grow with great luxuriance, neither was the
172 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
lane a stranger to the southern slopes of the hDls ; and
not the least beautiful and interesting feature in the
landscape, was the number of hamlets peeping through
bowers of frmt-trees, while the distant sounds of the
shepherds' reed sounded cheerfully through the defts of
the rodo.
Ruins are always infested with numerous reptiles in
these southern provinces of European Turkey. In this
instance, having n^lected to take the usual precautions
of lighting a fire previous to indulging in our noon-day
siesta, one of our companions — the Spanish Jew — ^whQe
arranging his carpet for a nap on a heap of weeds, had
the misfortune to be bitten by a snake, which at tiiis
season of the year, being more venomous than usual,
must have caused his death, if I had not been present.
The method of treatment I learned many years ago,
while attending a lectins given by the late Sir Asti^
Cooper, who recommended tying a bandage firmly
above the wound, so as to prevent the poison mounting
higher into the system. This was easily accomplished,
as he had been bitten in the finger ; then, by a con-
tinued application of sweet oil, which I always carried
with me, and repeated doses of raki — a good substitute
for cognac — I perfectly succeeded with one in neutral-
izing the poison, and with the other in supporting the
exhausted energies of my patient. The cure was com-
pleted by placing over the wound a cataplasm of salt
and gunpowder, which, from repeated experience, I
knew to be a most valuable application for the bite of
venomous reptiles or the sting of \nseG\&« \^^ n)«i^^
*
ALBANIA. 1 73
however, detabed for tbe tught, our pora- sufferer beii^
too weak to attempt continiuiig his jouroey till the next
day.
The unhicky star of tbe poor Jew, however, was in
the ascendant, uDce he was the innocent cause d «
disaster, which nearly proved fatal to two of our ooia>
panions, when for^ng the Scharkoa, a ra]^ tamat,
full of rocks and deep holes, at all times veiy daogeroot.
It should be observed, in cros^g these rivers wben
Hay Yappea to be deep, it is customary for tbe traveller.
* in order to escape wet feet, to cross his Ic^ cm the
saddle, an unsafe position for the rider. The Jew, who
' carried with him a padc of mcrdiandize, was mounted
unusuaQy high, and being i^ all times of a veiy dmid
' disposition, and now particularly ner\'ous, fanded, wbea
' about half-way over, be fdt the padc giving way, and
clutching with all his might at the tails of my coat
' as a support, with a loud scream tumbled head-foremost,
dragging me along with httn ; the noise that the phrnge
of two men made in the watCT, startled tbe horaes ot
our companions, who also threw their riders. The Bey,
who was heavily armed with his Amoutski gun, sabre
and pistols, got entangled in his weapons, and stood a
fair chance of hong drowned ; while poor Hadji, our
guide, bard and storyteDer, was fairly carried off by Uie
torrent, and would have been lost but for Hetro, who
was a capital swimmer. Having recovered Irom (he
surprize occaaaoned by my immeisioD in the water,
and telling Ben Isaac to lay hold of bis horse's tail to
guide him through the stream, I turned round to see
174 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
what had become of our other companions^ when lol
all I beheld was a long lock of hsur floatmg on the sur-
&ce of the water, this revealed to me the danger of the
unfortunate Bey, who had faUen into a hole, and was
struggling for life. To seize his hair, and roll it
tightly round my arm, was the work of an instant, and
thus drawing him after me, had the satisfaction of con-
veying my half-drowned companion to dry land.
The Bey speedily recovered from his disagreeable
submersion, but we had some little difficulty in restoring
poor Hadji, who, on opening his «yes, mechanically
sought for his raid bottle, and inhah'ng a long and
copious draught, rose up and began arranging hb
horses to continue our journey, as if nothing had hap-
pened. The adventure passed off with a few jokes at
the expense of our Mahometan Bey, with respect to the
great convenience to a drowning man of the lock of
hair, which Mahomet commands the faithful to leave
on the head, by which the angel might waft them to
Paradise. No entreaties of mme, however, could pre-
vail upon my superstitious companions, to allow poor
Ben Isaac to continue his journey with us. No, he
was unlucky ! doubly cursed within the space of twenty-
four hours, and the third time, perhaps, would prove
&tal to the whole party. It was painftd to see the
distress of the poor wanderer, when he saw himself
left alone in the land of the Philistines.
An hour's ride, exposed to a high wind and a broiling
sun, completely dried our clothes ; and the smart sayings
of Hadji again enlivened our route, while the wcl^ ^i
ALBANIA.
Fietro and the Bey made the woods and the rocks edio
and re-echo ; and by the time we arrived at Ostanitza,
all our disasters were completely forgotten. Archeolo-
gbts contend, that the vfllage of Ostanitza was the
Castro-niini of Philip, which is not unlikely, for bdng
situated on an eminence, and partly surrounded by Ui6
torrent Ostanitza, the portion is very stroi^. We
found here the ruins of several churches, and a monas-
tery, but no remains of antiquity; Ketro, however,
informed me that there was a very considerable ruin
about half a league further, in an opposite direction, at
•
. the base of the Nemertska. This splendid mountain,
which may be termed almost an Alp, is seen from here
to great advantage ; it is everywhere broken up, and
intersected by ravines still filled with snow.
After half an hour's ride, we attained the summit of
the vast ridge that rises above Ostanitza, and saw
beneath us the pretty town of Konitza, with its castle
and river, together with the rich plain of the Tcharkos,
above which rose, in picturesque grandeur, the central
range of the Hndus. A dense forest of noble oaks now
received us within its bosom, where, in addition to being
nearly suffocated for the want of air, we had tp contend
against an army of tormenting insects, as numerous as
the sands of the sea. This continued till we came to a
beautiful plateau, verdant as a lawn, where we encamped
for the night, evidentiy a favourite halting-plaoe with
the caravan, from the remains of fires that lay scattered
about, selected, no doubt, for the abimdance it offered
of the finest spring water and pasture grounds. \
176 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
At break of day we caught and saddled our horses ;
Fietro, as usual, like a pious member of the Greek
Churchy devoutly crossed himself; while our Maho-
metan Bey, and Hadji Ismael, not only threw themselves
on their knees, but touched the earth with their faces —
that earth from which they came, and to which they
must return. In this custom of the Mahometan, there
is something very touching, very significant, of the
abasement man ought to feel when addressing the Most
High.
ALBANIA. 1 77
CHAPTER IX.
Republic of the moonUineen of Sagori— Their citiI and r*-
gious institutions — Manners and customs — Elysian fidda—
Locusts — ArriTsl at Jannina — Descriptioo of the town — Ita
ancient and contemporary history — The Lake of Achemna and
its island— Inhabitants of Jannina— Their sociability —Visit to
the ruins at Gastritza— Supposed to be those of the temple
and town of Dodona — Epirus, its ancient and modem histofj
— Description of the country volcanoes — Earthquakea.
On leaving the bivouac of the prececUng night, our
route lay through a wild uninhabited district, composed
of rocky mountains, for the most part barren, or only
here and there partially covered with aromatic plants,
and an occasional clump of brushwood ; this continued
till we arrived at the basin of Sagori, with its tiny lake.
We had now entered the little republic of Sagori,
consisting of a commonwealth of forty-five villages, in-
habited by Christians, and under the protection of the
Sultan, to whom they pay a yearly tribute. Twdve
of these viRages are peopled by Zinzars, and the re-
mainder by Albanians, Greeks and Slavonians, all pro-
fessing the Greek ritual ; the names of the villages, as
well as the mountains, rivers and rivulets, prove that
VOL. II. N
178 TRAVELS IN EUKOPBAN TURKEY.
this was originaDy an Dlyrian settlement. The in-
habitants occupy all the high lands, included between
Mount MitchekeDi and the central ridge of the Hndus,
in which are several parallel valleys separated by a high
ridge, called the Fleovina. —
One of the most remarkable features, in the character
of the inhabitants of these provinces, is their attachment
to self-government, patriarchal in its form and cus-
toms ; we have already alluded to this while traveDing
among the Slavonians, we have seen the same system car-
ried out by the Miriditi, and now agsun in this mountain
district Whenever they are sufficiently strong, from
combination or position, to extort this privilege from
the weakened power of the Osmanli, their first object is
to elect their own chiefs, and virtually establish a republic;
conforming to the laws, and paying the tribute due to the
Sultan, as chief of the empire. We may therefore con-
dude, should any political convulsion overthrow the
authority of the Crescent, these provinces (if the inha-
bitants were left to themselves) would become divided
into a niunber of petty governments, and confederades
of races and creeds, for which the moimtainous nature
of the country offers so many facilities. TIus, while it
would pacify the countiy and gratify the self-love of the
people, solves the difficult question of : " What is to be
done with European Turkey ?" and in the event of such
a convulsion, those Western powers, interested in the
&te of these provinces, should be prepared to counte-
nance and support this system of federal government
We have fi:equendy alluded, in the course of this
ALBANIA. 179
work, to the village rule of the dders, so popular uio^g
the Slavonians. A similar system is pursued bj the
mountaineers of Sagori, with this diffiBreiioe^ that here
the people are in actual possesion of their communal
rights and privfl^;es, and recognized by the Sultmo, to
whom they pay an annual tribute. TTie government has
continued faithful to its engagement^ and the moim*
tainecrsy who never ally themselves to any political party
hostile to the Turkish rule, live in their seduaon happy
and contented.
The original inhabitants of Sagcni appear to have
been Christian refugees, driven by the tyranny of the
Turks from the plains of Jannina, who, having settled
here, by almost superhuman industry, transformed a
mountain desert into a land literally flowing with milk
and honey. The mne they produce is said to be the
best in Albania, while thdr honey, cheese, lamb, kid,
and mutton, fetch the highest prices of any sinular pro-
ductions in the market of Jannina ; but ovnng to the
want of roads, and the expense of carriage, their nurd
merchandize does not yield them much profiti which
obliges the men to seek employment, during the sum-
mer months, among the indolent agriculturists of the
plains, in order to obtain a sufficient amount of speoib
for the payment of their tribute to the Sultan. During
the absence of the men, the wom«i not only perform
all the agricultural work, but act as substitutes for the
police, and mount guard on the frontier of disturbed
districts, where these intrepid amazons may be seen,
armed with gun, pistols and sword, accompanied by
n9
180 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
thdr ferodous dogs, of the ancient Greek race — the
M0I088.
We have neither space nor tune to enter into detail,
on the admirable administration of these interesting
mountaineers, so utterly unknown to the great world —
their virtues, morality, hospitality, mild and sociable man-
ners, their quickness of intellect, and the utter absence
of fenaticism in thdr religious opinions, would appear
almost fabulous, were not the accounts I received con-
firmed by our Consul, Mr. Damaschino, and several
Franks^ established at Jannina. Education is universaUy
diffused among all dasses ; every commune has its own
sdioolmaster and clergyman, the latter is elected by
the people, as well as the bishop, who here, unlike those
in other parts of European Turkey, are neither political
agents of the government, nor of other interested foreign
powers, but patterns of virtue and morality.
An interesting ride through the little commonwealth
of Sagori, conducted us to the plains of Jannina — the
Elysian fidds of the ancients. This fine plain is bounded
to the north by the snow-capped summit of the Tomo-
ritza, to the south by the Pindus, over which rises in the
fiur distance the gigantic Djoumerska, to the west by
the mountainous country of the ancient Elea, and to
the east by another encircling chain the Mitchekelli, at
the base of which we find the town and lake of
Jannina.
A few days before our arrival, this beautiful plain
had partially suffered from a swarm of locusts, which
imparted to it a sterile aspect Locusts do not often
I
ALBANU. 181
vi^t Albania, but when they do croaa the mountaina,
their havoc is most destructive. The inhabitanta have
no wambg of their approach, either from the heat of
the atmosphere, or the prevalence of any particular
wind ; they appear to be particulariy attracted to the
cotton plant and muze. In certain districts of Mace-
donia and Thrace, thdr ravages are more fieq[aeiit;
there it is not unusual to have the fields ploughed and
sowed twice in the same year, when, by uang tfaeae
insects as a manure, the peasants assured me^ that the
abundant crop produced repaid them for thdr ravagea.
The worst kind of locust, that occasionally visits these
provinces, is the gryUi migratori ; those generated in the
countiy are never found in sufficient numbers to be
termed a plague, forming as th^ do the principal suste^^
nance of storks, cranes, and other birds.
After fording a small river, which antiquarians pre>
tend to be the andent Dodona, we came to the femoiia
causeway, about half a league in length, thrown over the
marshy part of the lake ; there is no tradition recorded
to tell us at what epoch, or by what people this great
work was constructed. From thence we had a pleasant
ride through meadows and pasture land to Jannina.
Perhaps there is no town in Albania, or European
Turkey, better known to the English reader than
Jannina (or, as the Greeks pronounce it, Joannina),
connected as it has been with the name of Ali P^cfaa, and
many a dark deed in the history of the Ottoman Porte.
The tyrant died the death of a rebel ; and so long as
Parga and the mountains of the Souli exist, his name
182 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
wiD be chronicled to posterity, as that of a man sent
by Heaven to be the scoui^ge of the human race. We
must, however, admit that he was possessed of all the
energy and courage of his race — a true Albanian ; and
had he succeeded in throwing off the yoke of the
OsmanU, the country would ultimately have prospered
under his rule. During the time he held the reins of
government, he caused roads to be constructed across
difficult passes, bridges and causeways over rivers and
dangerous marshes, and even encouraged commerce.
In his time, Jannina, with its forty thousand inhabitants,
was rich and commercial ; but following the fortunes
of its chief, the population decreased to one-half, while
its ruined fortifications, fallmg houses, and dilapidated
towers, tell a melancholy tale of the ravages of a war,
in which the fierce tribes of Albania were arrayed
against each other; the one battling to support the
pretensions of the rebel chief, and the other as stoutly
endeavoiuing to put him down.
The early history of Jannina is quite as obscure as
that of Dodona, the home of Jupiter. The Sabas-
tucrator, Michael Lucas, fortified and embeUished it
with public buildings ; afterwards it was taken and re-
taken by the Bulgarians, Servians, Normans, and
Neapolitans, and so completely devastated, that we
vainly seek for some monument of its former greatness.
Of the famous castle Litharitza, so long deemed im-
pregnable, there remains but a solitaiy tower converted
into barracks for the Nizam. The avenue of the
Castro, so often deluged by the blood of the victims of
ALBANIA. 183
All, still remuna ; and of his own statdy koula, enoqgfa
has been left to serve as a dwdling for the present
Pacha of Jannina.
Jminiaa owes much to its situation, and even dow
is one of the most important towns in Albania ; bat
unhappQy the fine lake that bathes its walls, and wlutb
might be made so great an embdlishment of the town,
a &st becoming, owing to the ne^cct of the in-
habitants, a poisoQOus marsh, with its forests of msds,
sedge, and papyri, the home of the croaldog frog;
and douds of mosqtiitoes; hence intermittent fever,
dysentery, and all other maladies produced by malaria.
are frequent. The Ni^ or island in the lakc^ ts tug)*bf
romantic ; here is a monastery and viDsge, with their
pleasant gardens and wide-spreatting plane-trees, tt^ether
with the remains of the house where AH was slain, and
which has become a sort of pilgrimage to every tiavdler
who \'i^ts Jaonina ; the torrent of dobra voda (the good
water) is well worth seeing, as it rushes into the lake
from a subterranean chaimel in the centre (it the
mountains. The litOe island is entirdy inhabited by
Christians of the Greek Church, who live in constant
dread of being one day swallowed up in the watoi of
lake, and which it would appear, from the number at
earthquakes that occur, with explosions like the report
of a cannon, reposes on a volcanic foundation, "nieae
frequent alarms, however much th^ may shake the
nerves of the inhabitants on terra firma, do not
diminish the numbers of the finny tiibes; for, lila all
the other lakes and ri^'ers in ASMUua, tiie Adumna
184 TRAVELS IN BUROPEAN TURKEY.
abounds in fish, particularly cray-6sh: and I never
before saw such quantities of water-snakes. Jannina
contuns a rich bazaar, several mosques and churches,
with a library, and a well-endowed Greek college, which
seems by enchantment to have escaped the general
wrecjc. The industry of the Greeks, Armenians, and
Jews still imparts some life to this dreary place, while
thdr silks, brocades, cottons, and morocco-leather,
uphold, in some degree, the former character of the
town for manu&cturing skill ; its confectionary is also
pre-eminently excellent
The r^ami tribes, of which Jannina is the capital,
are a mixed race of Albanians and Greeks ; and taken
altogether, whether they inhabit mountcun or valley,
town or village, are the finest race of any in Albania ;
their features the most expressive, and certainly the
most industrious, intelligent, and wealthy. In 1424,
when Thessaly and Macedonia fell under the yoke of
the Osmanli, Jannina, with its little territory, was an in-
dependent republic, wealthy, commercial, and flourishing.
Strong in its own mountain fastnesses, and the bravery
of its people, the commonwealth of Jannina might weD
have defied the Turks, powerful as they were; when
unhappfly the ilite of the people, the chiefs and wealthy
traders — the one to preserve their lands and fiefs, and
the other, their commercial privileges— opened the passes
of their mountains to the enemy, and embraced Maho-
metanism, drawing after them a multitude of their
fiiends and dependants. Another party, adhering to the
creed of thdr fathers, formed a confederacy of ^har^
ALBANIA. 185
and eDtnnched themselves in the Soul) mountuiu^ and
the other strongholds between Jannina and the fortified
town of Pai:g;a, on the Adrktic, vhich enabled them to
communicate nith the republic of Venice and the other
Christian states of Western Europe.
In process of tune, these mountains became the
asylum of every brave spirit, who would not sobmit to
the intolerant government of the Cresoeot ; and who m
our day, under tho name of Souliota, fiDcd iD Europe
with the feme of thor heroism and sufferings. As
in the other mountiun districts of these province^
where the Christians have congregated together for
safety and mutual protection, every spot capable of
tillage was brought into cultivation. Thus ihej ooii>
tinued to multiply and prosper, and at the same time
mountain their independence, till the advent of All
Pacha, who, full of his own ambitious deagns, doaked
under the pretence of subduing them to the rule of Uto
Sultan, turned against them the whole force of hit
arms, which led to one of the most henuc stnigg^
perhaps on record. This resistance is the man ex>
traordinary, when we remember the numerous armies
Ali had at his command, th^ bravery and ftnatidsm ;
while the Souliota, with the Philatis and the Marganti,
together with the citizens of Puga, oevo- numbered
above thir^ thousand inhabitants ; the destruction,
however, has been so complete, that we now sedc in
vain for a village, or even a haml^ Hw beautifiil
town Philatis, which was then so commwaal, and
adorned with public buildings, is now a heap d nmw ;
186 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Margariti, equally prosperous, fiu^ the same fate;
Fkffga alone escaped, owing to the interference of the
British Government, but with the loss of its liberty,
commerce declined ; and what was then a flourishing
sea-port, may now be termed a straggling village,
inhabited by a sickly-looking, miserable population,
which might be taken for paupers. Ali, however, has
left a memorial of his horrible work in a fort, which
now commands the passes of Souli, and, like the nest
ot a vulture, stands alone in the desert.
When we contrast the lot in life of the natives of the
British Islands, with that of the inhabitants of these
beautiful provinces, whose cruel fate doomed them to
fiiU under the rule of a barbarian, a stranger to their
creed, thdr language, race, customs, and manners, how
thankful we ought to be to that kind Providence, who
hath so long, and so mercifully preserved to us the
mild and enlightened rule of our native princes ; and
how tenacious we should be of that pure faith, and
those laws and institutions, which have proved for
ages the bulwark of our liberties, and gradually elevated
us to the highest state of morality and civilization
among the nations of the world. It is only by tra-
velling, and with a philosophic mind, carefully studying
the defective state of the religion, laws and institutions
ci the various nations, among whom we sojourn, that
we fully appredate the inestimable blessings we enjoy,
and which it is oiur duty as men, and at every risk,
to transmit intact to posterity.
Although Jannina b a town of considerable com-
ALBANU. 187
meraal importance^ there is no society whatever tfaat
can amuse a FVank; several merduuits of Vknna,
Belgrade and Semlin,' fdnusbed me with letten to
th^ correspondents, whidt were responded to by
sundry iovitations to cat sweetmeats, drink coffee, and
smoke the tchibouque; these scJemnJooking ttaderSt
whether Christian, or Mahometan, denying me altoge-
ther a sight of ibfor pretty wives and daughters, whom
th^ incarcerate in the jonetum Maaetontat of thdr
houses, with all the tender solicitude of a true Turk.
Then th^ conversation is so grave, and they have an
air so thoughtful and care-worn, that we might prcsame
we were m the company of a set of fdoas condemned
to the gallows. It is true, my feDow-travdler, the
Miriditi Bey, whom I hauled out of the flood by the
Prophet's lock of hur, introduced me to the Pacha,
and aQ his Mahometan friends, which obliged irke^ in
Q^nformity to Turkish piditeness and good marmen, to
swallow rivers of coffee, and consume a mountun of
the fragrant weed latalda.
As an agreeable interlude to the dull monotony of ■
town so perfectly Turkish in the charactfT of its .
inhabitants, I experienced a most cordial reception from
the French Consul, and our own worthy representative^
Mr. Dumaschino. I was also indebted to these gentkmen
for advising me to make a most interesting tour of s
few leagues to Gastiitza, presumed to be the ute of the
fiunous temjde and town of Dodona.
On leaving Jannioa, our way lay in a south-western
direction, tiirough a fine {dain, we then ascended a
188 nUYBLS IN BUROPB\N TURKBY.
lofty mountain with several monasteries hid in its
reoesseSy and having reached the summit, we saw
beneath us a most romantic plain, or rather an exten-
«ve basin, surrounded by an encirding chain of
mountains. The first object that strikes the traveDer,
b the remains of the largest amphitheatre yet dis-
covered, supposed to be erected by the ancient Greeks.
It is constructed of hewn stone, with seventy tiers
of seats cut out of the solid rock, which rise above it
Attached to thb is the Acropolis, which appears to
have been of great strength and large dimensions.
The ancient Greeks usually built their fortresses on a
hin, but here, we presume, rdying on the sanctity of
the place, sdected a plain. There is no difRculty
whatever in tracing the circumference of the town, in
the remains of its walls, gateways, and towers, ex-
hibiting here and there traces of Cyclopean architecture,
in the enormous magnitude of the blocks of stone. In
the interior we discovered the site of fourteen columns,
with a part of their fragments. Was this the temple
of Dodona? the residence of the celebrated oracle of
Jupiter. It certainly agrees better with the accounts
given by the ancients, than any other except the plain
of Jannina, but its lake, which must have existed in
those days — ^is the great objection. We have here a
fertile plmn, and springs, with their marshes at the base
of Mount Olitzka ; there are also sulphureous mines, and
it is exactly two days' ride from Arta, the ancient
Ambrana, and four days' from Buthrotum, now
Buthrinto.
«
fi
\
ALBANIA. 1 89
This part of Albania, to which the Greeks gave the
name of Epinis (continent), to distinguish it from the
Ionian Isles opposite, is as interesting to the anti-
quarian as any part of Ancient Greece. According to
the account of the earliest Greek writers, the first
inhabitants of Epirus, were Deucalion and Pyrrha, who
took rufuge in its high range of mountains from the
deluge. Here they foimd the cdebrated oaks of
Jupiter, which gave rise to the most andent orade oo
record. In process of time a temple was builti priests
and priestesses were consecrated to the service of the
God, and the orade continued to be consulted by
people from every part of the known worid, tfll the
establishment of the more magnificent one at Ddphos^
with its orade, contrived with far more care, art» and
cunning, to impose on the ignorant and superstitious.
That at Dodona, merely consisted of brazen vessds
suspended to the sacred trees, and on being shaken
by the wind emitted sounds that were construed into
words, and received as orades in an age when super-
stition peopled every river, glen, and mountain with
protecting deities ; and when feeble-minded man believed
that by consulting them the veil of futurity would be
drawn aside.
Thus it has ever been with man, as he advances in
intellect and dvilization, he sighs after a purer form of
worship ; despising the superstitions of a former age, he
establishes one more consonant with the advanced
spirit of the time in which he lives. As it was with
the Greeks that produced a Socrates, who taught man
190 TRAVELS IN BUROPBAN TURKEY.
the worship of the one in^vidble and true God ; so it is
with man in the nineteenth century, he goes on protesting
and dissenting as he advances in inteQect, till he returns
to the simple truths of Christianity, as taught by our
Divine Master, with one only, infallible orade, as his
guide to salvation — the Bible.
The descendants of Hercules seem to have reigned
at Dodona about the time of the siege of Troy, for we
find after the. destruction of that dty, when Pyrrhus, the
son. of , Achilles, came to estabUsh himself in Epirus,
he carried away with lum Lanassa, the Princess of
Dodona, great grand-daughter of Hercules, who shared
the nuptial bed with Andromache, the widow of Hector.
The savages of Epirus, who at this time lived on acorns
and roots, owed thdr dvDization to the captives taken
with them from Troy: they first taught them how to
sow, reap, and build houses; and in return, on the
death of their King Pyrrhus, showed their gratitude
by electing HeDenus, one of the sons of Priam, King
of Troy, to be thdr Sovereign.
Epirus, after having been for centuries a province of
Macedonia, again became independent^ and under its
heroic King, the well-known Pyrrhus, rose to great fame
in the history of Greece and Rome. On the death of
this great Prince, whom Hannibal esteemed as only
second to Alexander the Great^ the Romans under
P^ulus Emilius avenged their numberless defeats by
felling upon Epirus with fire and sword. History tells
us that seventy towns and cities were utterly destroyed,
and a hundred and fifty thousand of the principal inhsr
ALBANU. 191
bitants carried to Rome in chains to adorn the triumphal
entry of the Conqueror.
Epirus never recovered tins terrible catastrophe^ for
although it became nominally a Roman province^ the
people were never wholly subdued, and continued to
harass their cruel rulers till they were finally driven out
of the country. These unceasing wars have been pro-
ductive of an evil, from ^hich the country can never
possibly recover. Previous to the inva^on 'of the
Romans, history tells us that Epirus . abounded in
splendid forests ; these were burnt down, consequently
the rocky mountains denuded of their foliage,, and the
rains of centuries having washed away the soil, and for
the want of moisture dried up the rivers, the climate of
the countr}' and its character for fertility has been
entirely changed. Even in the most favoured countries
a tree is a valuable acquisition to the soil ; but in this
pro\'ince everywhere intersected by \^st chains of rocky
mountains, and only here and there partially coverfd
with a few inches of earth, and exposed the greatest
part of the year to the influence of a burning sun, the
want of. forests is severely fdt, and if once destroyed
they can never be replaced.
Greece, Albania, Macedonia, and Thrace have all
suffered more or less from the same cause; for the
barbarous custom introduced by the Romans of burning
the forests of the countries they wished to enslave, has
been too faithfully followed by their successors, the
Turks. Still, if the barbarity of man has stripped the
mountains of their verdant dothing, the vall^ and the
192 TRAYBLS IN EUROPBAN TURKEY.
plain, the glen and the ravine still exist in all their
ancient fertility, and only require inhabitants and an
enlightened government to take their place among
some of the most highly-iavoured countries in Europe.
As to the marshes and stagnant waters of lakes and
rivers^ to which we have so frequently alluded, so
detrimental to health, th^j^ have all their separate issues,
worked out by the hfificl of nature, and have only
become noxious through the indolence and barbarism of
the people and their rulers.
Among the most interesting objects in these provinces
that deserve the attention of the traveQer, are the
number of dried-up lakes and rivers which have left
proofe of their existence in the highlands and lowlands,
and even on the highest plateau of the mountains.
Next to these are the caverns and subterranean
canals that communicate with the various lakes and
rivers, and draw off the surplus water to the ocean.
These far-famed grottos and caverns have long ceased
to send forth their prophetic inspirations; but there
cannot be a doubt that in bygone days volcanic exha-
lations issued from them, and only ceased when the
subterranean fires became extinguished, which an
imaginative superstitious people like the Greeks ascribed
to a voice from the gods.
Again, wheresoever we extend onr excursions in the
mountain districts of these interesting provinces, we are
presented with the image of a chaos, the remains of
some mighty convulsion of nature ; here we see stupen-
dous mountains torn asunder, there naked and blackened,
ALBUIU. 193
u if they were reft b; the fins beneath them, cr hMped
together in detached maswa is if the gods bad been
battUog agunst each olhcr, and used the fiagakmts that
we see scattered about as thdr weapcns. The Lake of
Acheniua at Jamuna, sUD thuoders with the fire beneatli
it, and neariy the whole of the lesser diain of moantun*
are subject to volcanic shocks ; the migh^ Komm, tha
monarch of the mountuos in European Ttorkcy, to
which we have already refored as the central point of
the mountuns of Uf^ier Albania, Bosma, and Maoe-
doma, is formed of granite, and appears to be alona
immovably fixed upon the centre of the earth, while Ow
lesser chain being of a calcareous nature and subject to
earthquakes, are mmed by immense caverns and besr
undeniable marks of having been at one time volcanoes.
As a proof of this, it is a well-known &ct, that during
aH the great earthquakes which have taken place in these
provinces, and agitated more or less the calcareous and
shistous mounttdns, the shodc was always arrested
when it approached Mount Komm or any of its rami-
fications.
We make these observations for the benefit (^ future
travellers, who may take an interest in these phenomcnm
of nature. During my excurnons in these provinces I
repeatedly experienced these commotions of the earUb
particularly in the year 1 850, whidi jmivcd so filial in
several parts of Dalmatia. While I remuned at Zante
in the Ionian Isles, there waa scarcdy a day we did
not fed one more or less vident ; and on my way hom^
on airiving at the Balkan, we had a smart abode at
TOL. U. O
(
V
194 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Bazardjah, and another still more violent at Philippopoli/ 'l
without causing any damage to the town or the sur-
rounding country ; it appeared as if enormous masses of
stone were rolling in subterranean caverns and not to
affect, except in a slight d^ree^ the surfiu^e of the
eardt
^ '
n
t
i
i
KHRUS. 195
CHAPTER X.
Journey from Janmxui to Arta — Role of AU Pacha— Tlie
mountains of Epinia — Subterranean rivera^— Tbe plain of Arta
— ^Marshes — ^Arrival at Arta — Sketches of the town and its
neighbourhood — Fertili^ of the soil — Productions — Remark*
able ruins— ^Visit to the church of the Panagia — Singular
antique image of the Vir^ — Superstition — Climate of Epiros
— Its mountains — Rivers — Inhabitants — Ancient bridge orer
the Arethon — Monasteries, with their orchards of oranges and
lemons — Journey over the Marsh of Arta — Arrival at Salagora
— Unexpected friends — Voyage to Prevcsa — Hospitality of
the English Consul — Sketches of Ali Pacha and the French—
Visit to the ruins of Nioopolis.
However much my love of adventure might have
tempted me to prolong my stay in Albania, where the
insurrection of Guilika was steadily progressing, I deter-
mined that Jannina, now suffering from cholera, cfy-
sentery and mtermittent fever, should not become my
residence; and having made an agreement with my
amusing kiraidji, Hadji Ismael, I lost no time in settbg
o\jJ; for Arta, Vmvesa, and the Ionian Isles.
o2
196 TRATELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
On leaving Janmna we passed through the neat vil-
lage of Bonilla, inhabited by a colony of Bulgarians. ^
Here we replenished our provender bags, and procured a f I
plmtifiil supply of wine and raki, sufficient to serve us i
whDe crossing the mountain desert, that separates the i
Elyaan fidds of Jannina fix>m the town of Arta. 4
The late Afi Facha of Jannina, though somewhat I
tyrannical in Us mode (^ govoning, was at least sen- i
aUe of the utility of roads to a country, and that over \
which we now travelled had evidently been constructed ^
widi great labour; but the entire absence of villages |
render a joumq^ through these solitary niountsuns highly , j
dangerous. On viemng the confused heaps of naked i \
rodcB towering to the heavens, endosing deep tunnels, 1
the multiplication of narrow chasms, with their jagged
points, and broken summits sparely covered with vege-
table soil, and the thermal springs so frequently met
with, sufficiently prove how recent has been the commo-
tion that rent these enormous masses of rocks into
fiagmenta.
We passed the night at the ban of the Five Wells
(Pente-FIgalia), fix)m hence our route was one continued
descent to Arta, skirting for the most part a magnificent
defile, but there was not the slightest appearance of
firing or rivulet, and that which lay at the bottom of
the defile was so offensive to the smell, that our horses <
even turned away from it in disgust The want of water ^
in these mountains, where the sun's rays reflected from the \
calcareous rode, renders the heat almost insupportable, is i
a great misfortune to the traveller. In addition to this>
I
EP1RD8. 197
we bad to cODtend agdust swarms of gnats, whidk
neariy drove our poor hones wUd. At length we caught
a glimpse of the {duns of Arta and the snow-csf^ied
summit of the E^oumerska, riang to a hoght of more
than ^ thousand feet, and soon afterwards heard the loud
and refreshing roar of a cataracL The welcome sound
was not lost upon our horses, and though only a moment
before scarcely able to crawl, they now pricked up then-
eats, and neighing for joy, set off at full canta, and
never stopped till they guned the long-wished for olject
of tbor desires.
These springs, which burst with the force of a cataract
from the sides of a mountain, are presumed to he one of
the subterranean discharges from the Lake of Jannioa,
and having no r^ular diannd, they inundate the low
lands, and are the primary cause of the extensive
marsh we find in the centre of the plains of Arta oa to
he Ambrasian Gul£
Arta, with its rapid river, its domes and minarets, iti
turrettcd castles, monasteries and chiuxhes, the fine
bridge thrown over the Arethon; the shdving banks
glowing with the many tinted foliage of the orchard, the
stately cypress, the wide-spreading plane; cannot fail to
arrest the attention of the traveller, and induce tum to
believe that he is about to enter a rich and populous
city, possessing all that can minister to the wants of
man. Alas ! on a closer inspection, he finds it to be »
dujdicate of the other towns he viuted in European
Turkey ; here a cluster of straggling huts, thoe dirty
unpaved streets^ surrounded by ruins. Even the nut
198 TRATBLS IN BUROFEAN TURKSY.
plain, so beaudful a contrast to the rocky mountains, is
for the most part a marsh, poisoning the atmosphere
with its exhalations. Yet, however insalubrious this
district may be to man during the great heat of sum-
mer, part of the plain lying at the base of the moun-
tains cannot be exceeded in fertiUty, and in the varied
and choice productions of the soQ. The sunny slopes,
covered with vines and o^e-trees, produce the finest
wine and oil in Epirus; the orchards are famous for
their oranges, lemons, pom^ranates, and figs. The
tobacco grown in the rich alluvial soil of the plun is
ecjual in aromatic flavour to Latalda ; the cotton plant
also attains to the highest perfection, and the msdze may
be seen growing to a hdght of seven feet Among the
forest trees on the shelving sides of the mountains we
find that rare tree the white oak, and shrubberies of
shumach, so valuable to the tanner. The population,
however, is inconsiderable, and the climate so unhealthy,
that beyond the vicinity of the town, and the more de-
vated districts above the marsh, there is no cultivation.
A canal sunk in the centre of the marsh to the Am-
bra^an Gulf would at once deliver the inhabitants fix>m
a pestilential nuisance, bring into cultivation a district as
large as a petfy German kingdom, and repay the enter-
prize a thousand-fold. But why allude to works of
public utility, in a country under a government so indo-
lent and cardess of its own interests as that of the
Ottoman Porte t
Arta takes its modem name fit>m the river Arethon.
On viewing the town and its antiquities, there cannot l|a
ft doubt that this wu the andcDt Ambraida founded lij
the CoriQthtaas. The ftHiress, wi& its painted mosqiN
and minarets, the erection oi a later period, reposes on
the foundation of some edifice of the ancient Gredc^
shown by the massive blocks of marble beautifully pot
together, differing altogether from the flimsy arduteetnn
of the buildings that surmount it.
llw most interesting remains <i£ the worin at the
Corinthians are to be found near the Churdi of SL In-
dora i here was situated the Acropolis, and from thawe
the masave waDs of the old town may be distincUy
traced to the extent of at least half a league and ooe of
its gates of entrance is stiD visiUe near the church of Ae
Panagia, which is said to hare been at one time Qm
temple of Minerra.
In this church I was introduced to a nuracoloaa
image of the 'Virgin, most diminutive in ma, and camd
out of some species of blade wood, but so motb-ei^ea
from age, that a mere toxich would be sufficient to
crumble it to pieces. It was only after much time ^>eot
in prayer and crossing, as a preparatioo, that the Pq»
dared venture to take upon himself the awfid respoi^
sibili^ of exposing the sacred image to the gate of
a heretic Frank. At length the ulver-spanj^ reQ was
withdrawn, the good priest assuring me that no rofidd
could regard it wUhout bong instantly stnidc with Uiitd*
ness 1 If I had been of a satirical dispoution, I might
have remarked, what a formidable ally in a war with the
Turicsl
. This was the only carved image c^ the Ytrgm I met
200 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY
with in a church dedicated to the Greek form of wor-
ship, except another of the same description at Ocrida ;
for although the followers of that creed fill their churches
with puntbgs of the Virgin, and all the saints and
angek in the calendar, they ohey literally the second
Commandment, which says, " Thou shalt not make to
thyself any graven image ;" but this relic having been
carved by St Luke ! we presume was thought worthy to
form an exception. It is secured in a wooden sanc-
tuary, and never exposed to the gaze of the people
except on some extraordinary occasion, and then with
great solemnity.
Yfiih respect to the tradition that it was executed by
St. Luke, I heard the same thing of the famous one at
Loretto, in Italy, and hundreds of others in the various
Catholic countries through which I have wandered. It
18 singular that they should all be of the same size,
and of a black colour, strictly resembling each other.
During the reign of Ali Pacha of Jannina, Arta
made some advances in commercial prosperity ; it was
then the dep6t for the merchandise of Lower Albania,
and carried on an export and import trade with the
Ionian Isles, Trieste, and Italy, by means of a road
executed by their energetic ruler, Ali, which brought
the town into direct communication with the port of
Salagora, on the Ambrasian Gulf. After his £dl the ' ' j%
town became involved in the late struggle of the Greeks
for independence, when it shared the fate of many others
in these provinces, being plundered and burnt by the
Mahometans. Before this catastrophe, Arta numbered
I J
I
I
dgfat thousand inhabituits, we now find it reduced to
less than half of that number.
With the excxpiioB of the Govemor, the mifitary and
dvil officers, who in, as usual, Mahometans, neadj ths
whole of the inhabitants of Arta, with the a(^(»ning
districts, are members of the Greek Church, who enjoy
to die fullest extent thdr dvil and religious Kiertiea ;
thdr laws are administered hj a Gredc Inshoi^ appointed
for that purpose b; the Ottoman Porte ; and they ban
nothing to oomfdain t^ with ttu exception of that
dt^jTadiog impodtion, the poll-tax, whidi the "nurkiah
Government still exacts from its Christian suljects, and
which implies, acconting to the andent laws of Quo
Turkish empire, a payment, to redeem thdr heads, as
Giaours, from decapitaUon !
Ihe cUmate of Epirus, Uke that of Albania, is sul^ect
to frequent and sudden changes ; ttus dqiends, however,
in a great measure upon the aspect of the valleys, and
hdght of the mountdns. In some of the gorges and
narrow valleys the heat would be insupportable were it
not for an occasional breeze from the moantdns, wludi
blowing over the snows and gladers of the higgler
peaks, brings with it a salutary and refreshing codnesi.
The early frosts wluch so often afflict our countries in
Western Europe, the smut which injures our com, and
the worm whidi ravages our fruit-trees, are hen nearly
unknown. Tfae winters are usually very severe in the
higher latitudes, and when the north wind prendb a
great deal of snow blls, and the rivors and lakes becone
frozen, and continue so tiQ tfae qning, when the mnd
202 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
suddenly veers itmnd to the balmy south, always a time
of great peril to the inhahitants^ owing to the fall of the
avalandi^ and the overflowing of rivers, which then
become torrents and sweep away everything in their
progress to the sea. It is in order to allow a free
passage for this volume of water that we find the arches
of many of the ancient bridges rising to a height of
fix>m dghty to a hundred feet
If the inhabitants suffer inconvenience during the
spring by a superabundance of water in some districts,
they are equally distressed in summer by its scarcity,
when they are obliged to seek it at a distance of several
miles; this is owing to the abrupt descent of many of the
men, and the short distance from th&r source in the
mountains to the sea, requiring only a month or two i
of dry weather to cause their total disappearance ; while i
several of those that remain are totally unfit either for
' ■
dng or domestic purposes, on account of the
decomposed vegetable substances, and disgusting ani-
malculse they contain. Mineral springs abound, but
pure water is a rarity, which obliges the inhabitants of
several towns to collect most carefully the rain in
.cisterns, but this is never drank without being filtered
and cooled in ice.
We left Arta at early dawn, crossing the Arethon |
over a massive stone bridge, evidently of great antiquity, ^ I
the centre arch is built in an ogive, and may be about \ \
four score feet in height The inhabitants, who regard
everything that differs fit>m the ordinary routine as the
work of supernatural agency, say that according to
traditioa it was erected in one nigfat by a &mouB
endianter, who accompanied Theseus on his nurch to
the Arethon.
So long as we continued our ride along ttie shdvii^
banks of the mountains, nothing could exceed the
beauty of the landscape, the fertility of the so3, and it>
varied productions ; groves of onugea and lemons were
intomin^ed with the choicest fruit-trees, enclosed in
hedges of bamboo and cactus; these wen varied by
fields of maize, cotton and tobacco, with plaotatifms of
mebns, all growing m extraordinary luxuriance. Tliit
fertile district is the private propoty oi the caloyers (tf
the neigbboiuing monasteries, and how the wwlhy
fnars have contrived to keep thor rich inheritance fimn
falling a prey to some rapacious Mussulman, ought to
he numbered among the most striking mirades of thdr
Churdu
We were soon obliged to leave this little Eden and
cross the exten^ve marsh we saw spread out before us,
the whole of which had to be traversed before we could
arrive at the Ambrasian Gulf. The road across it was
however excellent, the best indeed I found in European
Turkey ; it was constructed with great ingenui^ by ao
Italian engineer in the serrioe of Ali Facha. On eadi
side of the road, there is nothing to be seen for many
miles but forests of reeds and bulrushes, here and then
interspersed with immense ponds, in whidi may be seen
eveiy spedes of aquatic bird, from the lordly pelican to
the humble water-hen. I discharged my gun, to sea
what effect it would produce among these aquatic tribes,
204 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TUEKBT.
rardj, we presume, <fisturbed in their recreations by the
destroyer, man. The report, as it reverberated through
the silent wilderness and neighbouring mountains, was
startling, and caused such a screaming and fluttering
among the frightened feathered population as I never
witnessed before, the air was immediatdy filled with
them, like dense masses of douds, ever and anon
bearing down upon us with evident hostility, even
approaching within pistol-shot Hadji thought his last
hour was come, and muttering a short prayer to the
Prophet, with a doMil Amaan ! Amaan 1 threw himself
under the beDy of his horse . for protection. Another
disdiarge again dispersed them, they however gallantiy
kept up the fight, which obliged me to expend as much
powder as would have sufficed to storm a Turkish
garrison, and they never left us till thqr saw us clearly
out of thdr domain.
We, however, derived (rota their pugnacious dispo-
^tion a most unexpected benefit, the fluttering around
us of so many myriads of wings created a refreshing
breeze, at the same time the smeU of the gunpowder
dispdled our tormentors, the mosqiutoes, consequentiy
we managed to get to Salagora without suffering from
malaria, or from the ennui likely to arise from travelling
through so solitary a district
Of every other country, Turkey b the one best
adapted to teach man patience and resignation to all the
little crosses and vexations of life. There was only one
boat at Salagora for the conveyance of passengers to
Prevesa, and as the owner was laid up with intermittent
Bpuns. 905
fever, dq offer of miae, however Uberal, could iodnoe
tny of his hdps to tempt the d&ogen of the sea, ood-
sequently I was ohliged to suhmlt to the deems oi &te,
and make this miserahle place my rendence till dunoe
should send some xtnmge bark to Salagonu I hmd
however one consobtion, there was no fear of starving
the forests in the vicimty abounded in game^ the seft
with fish, I had only to rebmi to the manh to find a
wOd boar, and if I was disposed to vary my diet wi& a
savouty stew the whole face of the countiy was covered
with the land tortoise. And I must not forget to add,
for the benefit of those who may feel inclined to specolata
ia sea-onions, that a ship load of them may be found
within a few minutes* walk oi the coasC
AAer the lapse of a day and a night, our solitodo
was suddenly broken in upon by the r^)ort of fire-anns,
and the arrival of a troop of pandours escorting a hdj
and gentleman to Salagora. FVom their dress and
manners, and the style in wluch they traveled, I con-
duded they must be English, and though in tins re^>ect
disappomted, I had the pleasure of finding them to be
the Vannias of Corfu, relatives of the English Consul
at Jaanina, whom I had already met at that gentleman's
house. To avoid the disturbed districts of Albama,
they had taken this circuitous route on their way home.
Tn the evening, we had the satis&ction of sedng the
pretty boat of the English Consul, Mr. Saunders, enttr
the port to conv^ us to his residence at Prevesa.
Nothing could be more truly delightful than our
voyage to Prevesa, across the Ambrasian Gulf, the 8^^
206 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
breeze that fanned the sails of our little boat tempered
the great heat of the weather. There was agreeable
society, and, owing to the provident care of Mr. and
Mrs. Saunders, who were determined to welcome their
guests before they even saw them, we had abundance of
the choicest provisions, and to add to our enjoyments
we were bdng wafted over the most beautiful and
romantic gulf in the world, more resembling a lake
than an arm of the sea. We had on one side the bold
coast of Acamania, with its numerous bays and pro-
montories, and on the other the dark mountains of
Soul], overcapped by the gigantic summits of the
Findus.
On nearing Prevesa, the picture gathered classic
interest from the ^ew we caught of the ruins of Nico-
polis and the promontory of Actium, where two of the
greatest chie& of ancient days. Marc Antony and
Octavius, met to dispute the empire of the world. How
frUal have been the changes that time has wrought in
the aspect of this once populous region 1 How hard
the destiny which has not only swept away its towns
and dties, entombed their inhabitants, but changed the
name of the country 1 as if it was ordained that every-
thing human should have an allotted time of existence.
A few small trading vessels lying in the harbour of
F^esa, alone gave indications of some commercial
industry, and these were all that we had seen since we
left Salagora.
On landing at Prevesa, we found our worthy Consul,
Mr. Saunders, waiting to recdve us, who, with all the
EPIRU8. 207
hospitality of a true Englishman that has not forgotten
home and countiy, conducted us to his residence — a
bijou of neatness and comfort Everything was English
except the Albanian pandour, armed to the teeth, that
kept guard about the house. To me, the change froin
a life of barbarism to civilization, was as sudden as if
the wand of a magician had transported me in an instant
to the shores of dear Old England, and the illudon was
complete when we received a cordial welcome from
Mrs. Saunders, and a group of pretty children.
Perhaps no town in European Turkey has suffered
more severely fit>m the ravages of war than Prevesa.
This is principally owing to the invasion of the French
in 1798, who, in their mad career of conquest, having
driven out the Venetians and established themsdves on
this coast and the Ionian Isles, became involved in a
war with the Turks. Ali Pacha, himself the Napoleon
of Albania, taking advantage of the weakness of the
French garrison, marched upon the town at the head of
seven thousand fierce Albanians, and in a general en-
gagement defeated the French, and made their com-
mander, Lassalette, prisoner. The inhabitants, who had
been trained to arms, as a spedes of national guard, like
true Greeks, auguring defeat to the French fit>m the
number of their enemies, at the first shot threw down
their arms, and in some instances fired upon their allies.
Thdr perfidy had its reward. The town was given up
to plunder, and then burnt, accompanied with all the
horrors a ferocious Mahometan soldiery is capable o(
perpetrating ; and so dreadfiil was the carnage, that
208 TRA.YEL8 IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Rnevesa (aooardiog to the aooounts of the Greeks), which
at that time numhered about fifteen thousand inhabit-
ants^ was reduced to three thousand.
Afi Pacha, who it appears was fiilly aware of the
importance of VrevesA as a mOitaiy and commercial
station, had it strongly fortified, made it a naval dep6t,
and his prindpal residence ; and that his new &vourite
ahoiild not want for inhalntants, dvil and religious
liberty, with immunities from taxation, were granted to
all the new setders. Vfi&i so many advantages, Prevesa
again became one of the most flourishing towns in these
provinces, llus continued tOI Ali fining he was strong
enough to declare lumsdf independent of the Porte, the
unluclqr town of Pkievesa was besieged, taken, and
plundered by the imperial troops of the Sultan, when
the fortifications were destroyed, and everything that could
remind the sanguinary government of Stamboul of the
existence of the rebel, even to his stately palace, was
blown to the four winds of heaven.
This is not a solitary instance in a country, and under
a government in which there is no continuity of action,
the redeeming element of every other despotism but
that of the OsmanlL If a Pacha dies, or turns rebel,
all the good that he has done during his life is too often
left to go to decay in the one case, and destroyed in the
other. Still Prevesa, even in its ruins, is one of the
most agreeable towns, as a reddence, in these provinces.
Its noble and capacious bay, its blooming orchards and
olive plantations, with their hedges of cactus, aloes and
bamboo, render it charming, and if the Turkish Govern-
EnRDs. S09
mcDt could be induced to make it a free port, it migfati
become, as it was under the Venetians, a great commer*
ciol station.
To the antiquarian, the country around Prevesa poft>
scsscs great interest, for upon this coast stood Augustas
CtEsar, the conqueror of the worid ; and here^ at a ahart
distance from the town, we find the exteoave ruins of
Nicopolis, the creation of that mighty emperor, trho in
the fulness of his pride, lavished upon it the wealth of
his lenathan empire, with the object of popetuatiog for
ever the glory of his name. Ute investigatioo of this
causes which led to the total destruction of a dty of sodi
great magnitude as Nicopolis, one of the most wealthy
and commercial in the Roman empire, has long occu|Hed
the attention of the learned. From their reseandies it
would appear, that the advance of Christianity, whidi
deprived the Actium Games, instituted by Augustus, of
their importance, was the first blow to its {vosperitf.
This wns succeeded by the dedine of the Roman «d-
pire, when these provinces became infested with brigands
and pirates by land and sea.
It was first taken, and plundered by Alaric the Goth,.
and afterwards hid in ruins by his more savage sue*
ccssor TotiQa and his Huns. Justinian the Emperor
of the East, repured it ; but in those d^enerate days
when brick was substituted for stone, it fell an easy
prey to the Scythians and Bulgarians, who totally
destroyed it From this period history u olent re-
specting Nicopolis, whence it would appear, that it
remained a desert. On viewing the ruins of the dtf,
VOL. II. F
tlO TBAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
is' distance from the sea, and the shallowness of the
•rater in the bay, we are lost in astonishment as to
how it ever coidd have been a sea-port From this
circumstance, we are inclined to believe that a more
filial inroad than that of the barbarians has been the
GRUse of its destruction. Some convulsion of nature
ivfaich heaped up mountains of sand in its bay, and
eng;alphed a part of the town, might have hap-
pened in those dark ages, when events of this nature
were of secondary importance to the wreck and ruin of
nations that followed the fiJl of the Roman empire.
Among the interminable labyrinth of. broken columns,
the ruins of temples, baths, theatres* towers, gateways
and aqueducts, a small building in the form of a Pagan
temple is the most interesting, which tradition asserts,
was used by St Paul as a house of prayer ; but how it
escaped the general destruction of the town is con-
fessedly no mystery to the inhabitants, who say that
neither fire, earthquake, nor the progress of the barba-
rians» had any power over an edifice hallowed by the
jmeaching of the greatest of the Apostles.
I. *
r 'l
i
■>
IONIAN ISLES.
CHAPTER XI.
Voyage from PreTra> lo the Ionian Iilei — SauU Mmn—
Miserie* of the qomnuidne — The author attmckcd hj feier— '
HospiUlil; nod k'mdDeu of the En^ish officen — Vojagr to
Corfu — Improved appcannce of the tovD — Skctclies of the
uUud — Its ancient and contemporary history — Ob>er\'atioM
on the state of the loinan Isles — Factious siortt of the
inhabitants— Dreams of Young Greece— Prejudices of race —
Character of the people — The lepmentative system ft
government — IIov appreciated by the lonians — Voyage ts
Zaute— Lord Byron and Mr. Barff — Production of Zaat^—
Currants — How prepared for eiportatloo — Ohscmtkms m
the commerce of the Ionian Isles — Condudiog remaAt.
A FEW hours* sail in an open Loat, took us across
the little strait that separates Prevesa from Santt
Maura ; and truly I f^t not a little thankful when I onoe
more saw the British flag, waving from the stminut
of the fortress. The undulating bills of the ancieQt
Leukadia ri^ng up into a chain of moimtains of no
great rlc\'ation, interspersed with vill^;es and hamlets
surrounded bj' terraced gardens and plantations, has •
t 3
212 TRAVELS IN BUROPBAN TURKBT.
most picturesque effect This is conaderably height-
ened as we approach the town and harbour ; the weD-
built houses, the churdi with its lofty spire, the stately
fortress, the throng of wdl-dressed people that filled
the neatly paved streets ; the number of pretty boats
that floated on the transparent sea, filled with the gay
and the idle, the ringing of bells, the chiming of
docks, the loud hum ci human voices, the anima-
tion of the sailors loading and unloading the cargoes
of thdr various ships, imparted an air of pleasure and
business to the scene.
This was all so new, and burst sa suddenly on the
vision of the traveller fresh from Turkey, that had he
indulged in a nap during his two hours' voyage, he
might conceive himself transported by magic into another
hemisphere; so startling b the change from listless
monotony, indolence and neglect, to comparative wealth,
industry, neatness and happiness. In the enthusiasm
of the moment, I could not refirain from exclaiming,
Happy little isle 1 thou at least hast been spared from
fidling under the leaden rule of ignorance and des-
potism!
The hawk*s eye of the ever-watchful officer of the
quarantine, soon spied our little bark, and he signaled
us with a peremptory wave of the hand to cast anchor
in the bay of the quarantine. Now commenced that
odious ordeal, so much dreaded by the poor traveller,
to the despotism of which he has no choice, but to
submit Confided to the custody of a guardian, who
fills the double office of sentind and scr^^ant, I was
IONIAN ISLES. 213
conducted to my place of residence, something in the
form of a horse's crib, built of unplancd boards, and
plastered inside and out with pitch; it measured ex-
actly five feet by seven, about six feet in height, with-
out chair or seat of any kind whatever ; and this was
one of the abodes for the higher class of travdlers.
Those erected for the use of the ordinary traveller,
consisted of a shed similar to a market stalL
We presume no travcDer from Western Europe ever
takes this route during his excursions in these countrieSi
and having been found to suit the wants and conve-
mences of the half-savage hordes of Turk^, who mny
fit>m time to time visit Santa Maura, the quarantine
establishment has not been interfered with, otherwise
we cannot believe that such an enormity would be
allowed to exist in any civilized country, without having
long since met with the public censm^ it deserves. To
add to the other disagreeables of my prison, the quarantine
establishment was situated in dose proximity to a pesd>
lential marsh, without either tree or shrub to shdter
me from the burning sim of July, at a time when the
thermometer ranged from 32^ to 33* Reaumur ; and
in this horrible confinement I was obliged to pass five
days and nights ; the temperature of my sleeping-room
bdng equal to that of a baker's oven, a colony of croaking
firogs my musidans, and swarms of mosquitoes, with
occasionally a crawling scorpion, my companions. In
short, during the whole range of my travels in Asia
and Europe^ even in the most undvilized districts^ I
never met with the equal of this for the utter wretched-
214 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
ness of its accommodatioii, and the Insalubrity of the
situation.
I bad ah'eady wandered through some of the most
unhealthy districts in the Old and New World, borne
the heats of Asia and America ; exposed myself to the
.fineeang winds ci Rusaa and Canada; made my bed
alike on the arid steppe, the mountain-top, and in the
valley with its swamps ; hardened in constitution, and
temperate in my habits, I bad become indifferent to
the effect of dimate, and fearless of disease ; but my
confidence was doomed to meet with a most disagree-
able dieck at Santa Maura, the pestilential marsh,
the burning heat of the sun, the clouds of mosquitoes,
an these combined and aggravated by imprisonment,
threw me into a dangerous fever.
Happily, there were fiiends at hand ; I was imme-
diately visited by Colond Williams, the resident at
Santa Maura, by Major Goodenough, and the other
officers of the 34th, together with Dr. Frazer, the regi-
mental surgeon, to whose skill and kind attention I am
probably indebted for my life. Major Goodenough vied
with my medical friend in rendering me every aid that
sympathy for my sufferings could suggest. He fur-
nished my wooden crib with bed, bedding, and every
luxuiy necessary for the comfort of an invalid. His
servants were ever at the railing of my prison to
admimster to my wants, and to supply me with every-
thing that wo\ild tend to relieve the burning thirst and
fever that reduced me in a few days to a skeleton.
On the fifth day, the one which was to release me
IONIAN 1SUE8. 216
from my horrible prison, I summoned sufficient strength
to pass the examination of the quarantine doctm*, and
with the help of a couple of English soldiers, I gained
the apartment of Major Goodenough, where I found a
comfortable room prepared for my reception. The
change of air, the enjoyment of liberty and agreeable
sodety, operated like a charm upon my enfeebled frame^
and at the expiration of two days I found mysdf suffi*
dently recovered to continue my route, but still occa-
sionally subject to those distressing fits of alternate heat
and cold, more or less Solent, and which only yidded
to large and repeated doses of quinine. In fiict, Santm
Maura, surrounded as it is by salt lakes and stagnant
marshes, b one of the most unhealthy of all the Ionian
Isles ; the hospital was full of English soldiers, suffering
from &ver, and Colonel Williams, Major Goodenov^h,
and one or two other officers stationed here, had ojdHj
recendy recovered.
We have been somewhat diffuse in our description oi
the Santa Maura quarantine and its horrors, hoping that
what we have suffered may prove a warning to other
travellers; we have also learned that the British
Government, in its character of Protectorate, is not
responsible for the arrangements of the quarantine
establishment, since the administration of all finandal
matters is left to the Senate, who control the revenues
of the countiy. This has been the cause of much
ill-feelmg between the Protectorate and the Senate, and
no two people can be more opposed in their view of the
duties incumbent on a government, than the Anglo-
216 TRAVELS W EUROPBAN : TURKEY.
SaxoQ and the Greek. The first; full of the native:
energy of his race, desires to press forward in the path.
of improvement, proposes that such and such roads
should he laid out, bridges built, and various other;
'use&l works executed, so necessary to the advance-
ment of commerce, dvilization and industry. This is
(xrtdn to be opposed, under the plea of being an extra-
vagant waste of the public money, by a people who
regard any change from the usages of thdr ancestors as
imnecessaiy. Their horses could ford the rivers ; what
then is the use of bridges 7 Their merchandize might
be transported on the backs of horses and mules;
where then is the utility of ronds ?
To show how opposed these people are to improver
ments when money is required, a few years since an
^glish engineer prepared a plan for draining the
marshes of. Santa Maura, which, during summer, exhale
the most pestilential miasma, exceedingly detrimental tQ
the health of the inhabitants. The expense, though
inconsiderable, compared with the advantages to be
derived, was deemed extravagant by the authorities, and
the bin was^n^tived, as usual, relying on a lucky turn
in the chapter of accidents for its accomplishment
Some wealthy Lord High Commissioner, or superior
English officer, might have it done, through philanthropic
motives, at his own expense ; or the Home Govern-
ment that had already effected so many ameliorations,
would, perhaps, fed itself called upon to remove the
nuisance, in its desire to preserve the health of its
troopsi
IONIAN ISLES. 317
However sorty I might be to p-trt fnHn so maoyldnd
friends at Santa Maura, I felt not a Utde pleased when
I found myself on board the Ionian steamer; knowing
that change of air, and a return to my usual active
habits, were the best medidoes I could hare diosen for
restoring me to health. With this view I made ar-^
rangements with Mr. Forrest, the captain of the Icnuaa
steamer, and kept cnuang from island to island, when,
thanks to the sea-breeze^ a good consdUidtm, and
quinine, I had so Su overcome the enemy, aa to be able
to land at Corfu.
We remained a few days at Corfu, and to a travdler
like myself, who had been accustomed to viut these
islands from time to time during the last twenty yeats,
the contrast was most striking, and told much in bvour
of the system of government introduced since these
fortunate islands came under the Protectorate of Gre^
Britain. Corfu in particular has made rapid advances
in prosperity ; and whether we r^ard the deanlioess of
the streets, the neatness of the private houses, or the
rich and weU-stored shops, we are equaEy reminded of
hom^ and recognize the characteristics of a raoe^ who^
wherever they setUe, are certun to cany with them Uie
se^ of dvilizatioD, morally and industry. Crime has
become rare, and criminal immorali^ has been eradi-
cated from among the people ; and although the Anglo>
SaxoQ may be dissimilar in habits, customs and mao-
nas, from the Ionian Greeks, still his haughty resem^
engrafted on the aroiaUe frivolity of the other, has bera
productive of advantage in effecting an agreeable change
218 TRAVELS IN BUROPBAN TURKEY.
in their manners and customs ; and when they are not
infected with the Panhellemsm of Young Greece, they
are the most amiable, hospitable, and delightful people
in society to be found in any country.
With a desire to establish a reciprocity of kind feel-
ings, and a more extended intercourse with the natives
o( Great Britain, we wish we could prevail upon some
of our countrymen, who are now wandering, through
economical motives, or love of change, in search of a
home, to bend their steps towards Corfu, the most
delightful and salubrious among the Ionian Isles, where
aU the necessaries and luxuries of life may be had at
the cheapest rate ; at least they would have nothing to
fear from war and revolution, as Corfu may now take
its rank with Malta, or Gibraltar, for the strength of
its position and impregnable fortifications.
The town of Corfu is pleasantly situated on a noble
bay, ornamented with a fine esplanade. There is also
an air of wealth and grandeur about the principal streets,
and an d^ance in the architecture of the houses, that
reminds one of Venice ; and being the seat of govern-
ment, the residence of the Lord High Commissioner, as
well as the principal military station in these islands,
the very best society may be met with, whether English
or Ionian. The roads and drives in the environs are
remarkably well kept, and if we extend our excursions
into the interior of the island, our admiration is excited
at every step. At one time we are wandering through
groves of olives, orchards and vine bowers, or valleys
teeming with fertility ; now ascending picturesque hills.
or diving into romantic glens, surrounded by eray
gpcdes of beautiful sccnay that can chann the c^e ; the
whole interapersed with pret^ villages and hamleti,
monasteries and churches, exhibiting all the marks of a
wel]-n^:ulated commimity, evidently a stranger to want,
and in the full enjoyment of what is most dear to man —
dvil and rdigious Uberty.
If we are tired of hill, ravine and valley, and denre a
change of air, and at the same time to enjoy a toj
ddightM and extensive prospect, we have only to ascend
one of its mountains when we have spread bcf(»« us
the most perfect panorama of the town of Corfu, with
its fine bay, citadd and fortifications, and m die ftr
distance the mountains of Albania and Epinis, in all
their varied forms, over which rise in lofty grandeur
the majcsUc E^oumerska. Even the Ambrasian Gulf at
Arta may be seen, with the river Acheron, the Isle fif
Faxos, and a ^nt ouUine of Santa Maura on the hori-
zon, and if the day is fine — no unusual thii^ in tbi*
lovely climate — the harbour of Brundu^um in Italy is
distinctly viable.
Homer, when he sung of the dty of Alcinous, and
its delightful gardens, bequeathed immortality to
Corfu, yet where the town of the Gredan bard was
uluated remuns a problem, unsolved by the topogrqdier ;
its situation does not coincide with that of the modeni
town but exactly with the Corcyra of Thucydidc^
Aristotle remained here some time in exQe, and its
inhabitants witnessed the armaments of Alexander the
Great, which had such an influence on the fortunes ot
220 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Greece. During the period of the Olympic Gaines,
Corcyra took its rank among the States of Greece, and
more than one of its gallant citizens carried home with
him the crown of victory.
Founded by a colony of the Corinthians, it would
appear that the inhabitants of Contra* were not more
dutiful children than our own transatlantic offspring ;
since we find one of the most memorable pages in the
history of the island records their contest with the
mother country. From this period we may date the
misfortunes of Corfu.
After having fallen under the rule of the Syracusians,
and Pyrrhus, King of Epirus, it became for some time
subject to the barbarous rule of Teuta, Queen of
Illyria, from whom it passed to the Romans ; but so
utterly ruined, depopulated and insignificant had it
become, that were it not for the political commotions
which then distracted this part of the world, Corfu
might have remained tmknown to history. It was
here that Cicero met his friend Cato, afler the battle
of Pbarsalia, and here was celebrated the fatal marriage
of Antony and Octavia.
In later days, now struggling under the tyrannic rule
of theByzantine Greeks, then under that of the Normans,
or exchanging the degrading slavery of one pirate
chief for another, Corfu enjoyed but little repose until
it fdl under the protection of the winged lion of St
Mark ; still we might record many a dark deed per-
petrated by the Coimdl of Ten during its adminis-
tration of this island, many a lamentable episode of
IONIAN ISLCS. SSI
the sufferings endured by the inhabitants, as mcmbezs
of ^e Greek Church, from the pcnecutiw ai the
Venetian dcrgy of the Church of Romc^ in their
endeavours to convert the inhabitants.
On the destruction of the Venetian Republic, Corfu
was again doomed to change its rulers, again to pass
through the ordeal of war, rapine and ykieoix, now
subject to the despotism of Rusna, then to the Soen-
tiousness of the soldiers of RcpubUcan France, groamng
under tiie weight of milUary exactions, and an expen-
diture disproportionate to the resources of the isbod.
This state of things continued till the advent of British
power.
On taking a calm, unprejudiced view of the genera]
condition of the Ionian Isles, since th^ have come
under the protection of the greatest maritime nation
in the worid, and no longer in danger of being captured
and transfeiTcd like a bale of goods from the rule of
one successful adventurer to another, we must come to
ibs coodwiioa that they have gained immeasurably
by the change. They are entirely under the admims-
tration of thcar own Sept-insular form of government,
and enjoy at the same time a political and coDomerdal
influence among the States of Europe, whidi th^
never possessed at any former period. The flag of the
loman Isles waves on every sea, commeree has Iwougfat
thdr inhabitants wealth, and introduced among them
the arts and sciences of dvilized life. Stnngov to Um
burdens of taxation, the squalid misery and miBtaiy
despotism of other countries, they have every cause to
222 TRAVSL8 IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
be thankful to Providence for the blessings they
enjoy.
It is true we have entered an epoch of great excite-
ment ; ofttnions are prevalent which threaten to destroy
not only the machinery of government, but the very
frameworic of sodety. Amongst the mischievous
results, which the spirit and temper of the times has
provoked in these islands, and which foreign agendes,
activdy working through various channels have widely
circulated, is a desire to emancipate themselves from
the Fh>tectorate of Great Britain. '* Greece for the
Greeks," is the rallying cry of the day. "
This spirit principally exists among the factious
inhabitants of the island of Cephalonia, supported by a
few Radical members of the Senate, briefless barristers,
students, and other patriots of that dass, who fancy they
might rise to wealth and political power by the change.
We trust, however, that all this damour about the
sympathies of race is destined to pass away, since the
diange is opposed to the interests of the industrious
dasses, and cannot suit dther the views or the policy
of the nobility and gentry of the islands, who are wdl
aware of the advantages they enjoy, imder the Protec-
torate of a great and wealthy empire. Still the
^ Unionists," or rather the ^ Revolutionists,*' fortified by
the talismanic cry of a Greek Empire, with Con-
stantinople for its capital^ will be certidn to find
numerous converts among a people of a warm im-
petuous temperament, as fiivolous as they are
inconstant, and may lead to an outbreak which can
otdy terminate with defeat, and pcrbaps involve with it
tbe loss of all their Dcwly-acqiured privileges.
Indepeodent of every political considcraUon, the
dcvatioD to power of ft people like the Greeks, in their
present state of cnvilizatioQ and resources, would be
the greatest curse that could befiil these couutiiei.
They must bide thor time, and if bj aoj fortuitoui
turn in the chapter of accidents, these beautiful "^"^
now so prosperous, should fall under the rule of the
fitctious chie& and turbulent demagogues <^ " Young
Greece," whose political honesty and public virtne are
empty sounds, they would speedily become the xttneJt
of bandits — the home of pirates. Even now, were it
not for the dread these Greek pirates enter^n o{
fidling mto the claws of the British lion, not a an^
merchaatman could venture among the Greek islands,
without being accompanied by a man-of-war. In
making these assertions, we but repeat what we heard
a hundred times, from well-intentiooed, industrious
iohabitants of these islands and continental Greece;.
Every nation has its peculiar features and tendendes
— the result of its moral, sodal and rdigious instito-
tioDS ; and without b«ng prejudiced in favour of one
race above another, we must be of opinion that if ever
a people were formed to guide the destinies of man-
to advance his progress in dvilizatioa and industry, tbe
task has devolved upon the Anglo-Saxon race. They
were the Brst who success^y erected the standard of
constitutional and religious liber^ upon the ruins of
despotism and higotiy, and consequently they done
224 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
have attwied to true freedom and national greatness ;
ever restless, as if impeDed by some supernatural
agency they pour forth their myriads to every region in
the known world, erect impregnable fortresses, which
give them the command of the sea, plant colonies
destined to become empires, and in conjunction with
their children of another hemisphere, promise to break
down the barrier of race, and endrde the globe with
their language, religion and institutions.
We know not whether it was O'Connell's agitation
when he endeavoured to revive the old animosity be-
tween Celt and Saxon, and Old Ireland for the Celt ; or
Russian Panslavism, which originated the mischievous
appeal to the sympathies of race, and having found an
echo in Germany, Italy, and among the Slavonians of
Hungary, Austria, and elsewhere, hastened revolution
and anarchy, and embittered mankind against each
other in the dreadful struggle which shook the thrones
of as many European monarchies.
Let our friends, the Ionian Greeks, take warning by
the misfortunes of others, and beware how they allow
their better feelings to be perverted by the prejudices of
race, excited by factious demagogues whose patriotism is
selfishness. Let them regard England as what she really
is — a protecting power, performing her part in the
Divine mission intrusted to her for the dissemination of
enlightened civilization. Let them imitate the indomit*
able energy of her sons, their love of truth, straight*
forwardness, and sodal virtues ; and by following their
example, introduce more generally a spirit of industry—-
a determination to keep pace with the enEghtenmcnt of
the age. Let them unite heart aod soul «nth the
Anglo-Saxon ia develo|Hng the resources of their
heautiful islands, and in reconstructing on principles of
sound wisdom their political and sodol system, and hf
discountenancing all animosity, prejudice of rac^ or
estrangement from their rulers, bind sUD doser the
bonds of union with a great and wealthy empire wUcfa
offers them so wide a field for enter|»ize, and yrhidi
alone preserves them from sinking into thor fiumer
poverty and iougnificance.
England herself has not a more liberal system of
representative government than her Majesty the Qneen,
as Protectorate, has granted to these islands. 1^
national wish has even been gratified by the nominatloa
of a d^'ilian, as her representative; but instead of
showing their gratitude and justi^ing the belief that
they were suffidcntly advanced m poBtical knowledge to
appredatc the advantages of rational liberty, it wiB
hardly he bcUevcd by our readers when we say, one ct
the first measures of the demagogues who crept in ai
members of the Ionian Sept-insular Parliament was to
propose the abfJition of the Protectorate of Great
Brit;un ! and a declaration of their own indc^iendenoel
On our voyage southward from Corfu we passed the
little Island of I^o, touched at Santa Mann and
Cephalonia, and landed at Zante, so justly termed the
" Flower of the Levant" The town surrounding the
bay with its neat bouses of Italian architecture^ the
Acropdis above it, and the dark green hiDi formiog ao
TOL. IL Q
226 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
amphitheatre^ constitute a charming picture. Every
place, however inidgnificant it may h^ has its lions, and
every people their traditions. The most popular here is
that the island was first peopled by a colony of Trojans,
who landed under their chief, Zacynthus, who gave hb
name to the island, which it still retains. Homer
mentions it as having formed a part pf the kingdom of
Ulysses, when it was notorious for its marshes, fevers
and forests, and remained so till 1673. About this
time an Italian nobleman, Angdo Barbarigo, who
deserves to have a monument erected to his memory by
the inhabitants, drained the marshes and brought the
whole of the low lands into cultivation, now fiUed with
the choicest firuit-trees and that peculiar species of vine,
the corintb, which here forms the principal employment
for the industry, and a great source of wealth to the
inhabitants.
The good Zantiots, if they have not yet erected a
monument to the memory of their benefactor, cannot
be accused of dydng their hands in his blood like their
neighbours, the ever-factious inhabitants of Cephalonia,
who rose up and assassinated Count Carberry, their
wealthy coimtryman, in the midst of his projects for
ameliorating the condition of the people. This excellent
nobleman had already rendered whole districts salubrious,
introduced the coffee-tree and other exotics, with a view
of increasmg the prosperity of the island, when he fell
a victim to the jealousy of a people too barbarous to
comprehend the motives of an enlightened mind.
A pressing invitation firom my banker, Mr. Barff, to
IONIAN ISLES. 327
make his house my home till my health was somewhat
re-estabUshed, mduoed me to remun a few days at
Zante. This gentleman, whose high character and
unbounded hospitality sheds a lustre on his name of
Englishman, may be numbered among those of our
merchant princes that we find here and there established
in foreign ooimtries, but who never forget home. His
residence, a perfect palace, built and furnished at a great
expense, is so perfectly English, that were it not for the
sunny dime and bright skies of this lovdy island, we
might &ncy oursdves li^dng in Old England.
Mr. Barff, during the time I remained with lum,
kept open house, which afforded me an opportunity of
meeting several members of the most respectable famiKes
in the island, and at the same time enabled me to form
a just estimate of the social character of the higher
dasses, who cannot fail to impress the stranger favour-
ably, English reserve being engrafted upon their own
natural livdy Greek temperament, of whom his owa
estimable wife Mrs. Barff, of the noble family of the
Vdterras, is a most favourable spedmen. In some
d^ce still a sufferer from the ravages of the severe
fever I caught at Santa Maura, it would be ungrateful
in me did I not acknowledge the kind attentions I
received fit)m my host and hostess, who left no means
untried that might conduce to my recovery.
Mr. Barff is also in some measure an historical
character, fit)m the circumstance of his having been the
intimate friend and correspondent of Lord Byron, from
the time of his arrival in Greece till his lamented death.
Q 2
228 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY. -
He favoured me with the perusal of several of the noble
author's letters, both published and unpublished, and
also some documents connected with the contest between
the Turks and the Greeks.
It is but justice to the memory of Lord Byron to say,
that these letters and papers exhibit his character in a
very favouraUe point of view, more especially as regards
the did he rendered by personal exertions and pecuniary
sacrifices to the cause of Greek independence. He does
not appear to have been actuated by any selfish motive,
but solely by a desire to see the country his heart had
adopted free and happy. Mr. BarfF, who had been
intimately acquainted with his Lordship for several years,
assured me he had ever found his conduct to be honour-
able and straightforward in every transaction, and for
his disinterested labours in her behalf to merit the
eternal gratitude of Greece.
My visit to Zante was during the season of the
currant vintage, which gave me an opportunity of wit-
nes^g the method of preparing this fiiiit for the
foreign market The vines which produce these
delicious httle grapes were originally natives of Corinth^
whence they derive the name which modern usage has
corrupted into currant. They have been found to thrive
remarkably well at Zante, and no produce yields so
great a profit to the cultivator.
When sufliciendy ripe they are taken from the vine in
the same manner as the common grape, and placed on a
drying ground, expressly prepared for them, in layers of
about half an inch thick. During the time they ar*"
IONIAN ULB. 939
exposed to the sun they are occasionally tarocd and
swept into heaps, UH they are cnlirdy detached firom
the stalk, when tlicy ore fit fta- exportation.
The only danger to be i^prebcnded to the nntage at
this time is rain, which causes the fruit to deteriwate in
value, or become utterly worthless ; but tins is a d
of mre occurrence in a climate where it seldom r
summer before the middle of September. It a
that England consumes more currants than the whole
world put together; should, therefiwe, the wium of
fashion cause any change in the national taste fiir plmn-
pudding aud mince pics, not only the cuItiTaton of
Zante, but those of a great port of the Morea, would
be utterly ruined; for, however excellent these tiny
gr^Ks may be when appUed to thrir present uses, tbcj
arc utterly valueless for making wines, or any qjecaes of
liqueur.
The indcpcodcncc of Modem Greece has not been
favourable to the oommcFcitd prosperity of the Ionian
Isles. Previous to this event the inhabitants carried oa
a very extensive trade with Italy, Trieste, the Morea,
and the Greek islands ; it has now taken its natural
course, and found among one of its most &vonr«ble
stations, Putras, utuatcd at the entrance of the Gulf of
Lcpanto. Besides, the population of the Ionian lalei
scarcely amounts to two hundred and twen^ thousand,
while that of the Idngdom of Greece is little ahoit tif a
miUion ; and since their eraandpadon from the thnUmn
of Turkish rule they have cootinucd to transact their
own affiurs with the foreign roerdian^ and to attiact
330 TBAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
to tbdr ports the trading vessek of the surrounding
nationa,
Thb is the prindpal cause of the decrease of trade
in the Ionian Isles^ which must continue to decline
unless the inhabitants exert themselves to seek new
diannds of commerce ; European Turkey still lies open
to them, Albania with its long line of coast is within a
few hours' sail, Italy is not far distant, and no islands
can be better situated as depdts for merchandize, and all
the purposes of commerce and navigation. The best
intentioned government can effect but little for the trade
of a country, unless the people themselves are animated
with a spirit of enterprize, and enter the lists with
courage and perseverance. There b no want of money in
the Ionian Isles^ since many of their traders and retired
merchants are said to be mUlxannairei.
MODERN GUBCB.
CHAPTER XIL
Voytge from Zante to PalrM— Detutifnl iceiieij— The town of
Pitras— Commerciid powtion— Trade with Eo|^— &qportt
uid iroporU — SkeUhu of the modem Greeki — Dictmbed
sUte of the country — Brigande — AdminutrmUoo of King Otbo
— ObsemtioDB on the poUtical Mid locj*! atite of Greece —
Intrigud of the diplomatic egenta in Greece — Qectioneering
in Greece — Novel method of obtaining a miniaterial majori^
— Death of M. Colettl— French Berolation, and &Q of tha
Triumvifate in Greece — Concluding remarlu.
In the absence of any direct steam communicatitHi
between Zaut« and I^tras, my only altemadre was to
remain waiting a week or ten days for the Engli^
Government steamer, on its way from Corfu to Malta,
which calls here every fifteen daya, or to engage my
passage in a small Greek suling vessel ; I decided on
the latter. This to a traveller in search of health aod
l^easur^ was no inconvenience, and rather haghtened
the charms of the voyage on a sea like an inland lake
studded with islands, and beneath a sky without a doud.
To odd to my enjoyments, I met with an old friend, the
only passenger, M. Sandrini, attach^ to the Rusaui
232 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURRET.
embassy at Athens, and who, like mysdf, was bound for
the city of Theseus.
Notwithstanding we were twdve hours at sea, and
our little bark was not quite so commodious as a
steamer, we were amply compensated by the enjoyment
of the most romantic and beautiful scenery : there were
the isles of Cephalonia, Ithaka, and Santa Maura, the
mountains of Epirus, Acamania, ^tolia and Lokirus,
with their fine bays and promontories ; these were suc-
ceeded by Cape Kruo Nero, and the Panagia, the
majestic heights of Achaia, Arcadia, and Elia, with a
distant view of Clarinza, which is said to have been
once a possession of England, and to give the title of
Duke to one of our royal princes. These ever-changing
panoramic views continued to increase in beauty till we
hove in sight of the ancient Patrae, on the Gulf of
Lepanto, over which was seen rising in lofty grandeur
the mountains of Achaia, to their highest summit.
Mount VodL
Patras is prettily situated at the base of the Pana-
chaikos. The old town surrounding the Acropolis,
remmns in the same state as when the Turks held
possession ; but the modem town, adjoining the harbour,
has several elegant houses, with hotels, coffee-houses,
bazaars, and wine-shops, which give to it something of
a European aspect. I counted sixteen English vesseb
in the harbour, waiting for cargoes of fruit, particularly
currants, besides a few Italian and Greek vessels.
There was an English war-brig, and also a French
and an Austrian ; altogether I could not but be impressed
MODERN GREECE. 233
with the idea that Patras was progressing, and promised
to take its place among the most fiivoured commeraal
stations in the Levant
In addition to currants, which are produced in the
Morca, and quite equal to those of Zante, the exports
at Patras consist of silk, oil, wax, honey, wool and
juniper berries; the import trade is also con»derable^ and
if we may judge of the commerce of Modem Greece
with England by what we witnessed in this town it
must be extensive, having met at my hotel a Manchester
manufacturer, Mr. Wolf, who appeared to be taking
orders as fast as he could write them down in his pocket-
book.
Nearly the whole of the commercial classes in Patras
are composed of foreign adventurers, particularly Greeks^
who, when Greece became independent returned to the
home of their ancestors, bringing with them the wealth,
industry, and ci\dlization they had acquired in the land
of the stranger. As to the natives, they are but little
changed from those of their nationality who still
v^ctate under the rule of the Turk — ^Asiatic in their
manners, customs and habits, with the exception that,
now they are at Uberty to follow their own inclinations,
their dress is more gorgeous, and they are less indus-
trious. Nearly the whole of the labour in the country
is performed by Bulgarians, Albanians, Zinzars, and
natives of the Ionian Isles, particularly the Zantiots,
who, growing no com in their own little island, are
accustomed to come to the Morea, and cultivate the
ground, dividing the profits with the proprietor.
234 TRAVELS IN EUROPBAN TURKEY.
To my great surprise^ on visiting the fiurm of the
professor of botany, Signor Pietro Doxa, I found two
strapping Irishmen, deserters from the British army in
the Ionian Isles, employed as his husbandmen ; poor
fellows, they had just recovered from a dangerous
marsh fever, and, with tears in their eyes, lamented the
unhappy fate that compelled them to become exiles,
and, in order to escape punishment, slaves to a Greek
master. Repenting of their folly, and feeling desirous
to return to their duty, I furnished them with letters
to several military officers, my friends in the Ionian
Isles; but whether they availed themselves of the
advice I gave them, I have not been able to ascer-
tain.
But to return to the modem Greeks, the mania of
the whole people is the possession of costly attire. In
winter, a mantle, lined with fur and in summer; a
richly-braided jacket, the white fustanell or kilt, of many
folds, a gay silk shawl, tied round the waist, filled
with the jewelled-hilted poniard and pistols, is the glory
and ambition of these people.
The women are equally fond of finery, such a display
of gold omaments,bracelets, armlets, necklaces, tiaras, and
rings, as quite dazzles the eye of a sober-thmking Frank.
Truly, it is no exaggeration to say that the value of the
dress of one of these modem Greeks, even among the
poor classes, often amounts to a sum not less than
thirty pounds, while that of the wealthy is almost
beyond computation. But visit any of their houses, and
you win find it often without a bed, or even a chair,
MODERN GRBECS. 235
and their food at best composed of breads onioosy
fruits, melons and raid.
The grand object of all is a place under Govern*
ment, some authority with a little stipend, to enable
them to live in idleness, play the petty tyrant, and if
they can with impunity resort to extortion, still when
money is in the way, and ** Greek is opposed to Greel^
then comes the tug of war." Others of a more adven-
turous disposition, and possessed of sufficient courage^
try their hand at revolution, or take J> the highway,
and levy contributions on friend and foe — anything but
work.
On arriving at Fatras, it was my intention to have
hired a guide and a pair of horses, and cross the
mountaiins to Athens, but our Consul, Mr. Wood, and
indeed all the foreign Consuls and respectable merchants
I visited, cautioned me against an entcrprize which
would be ccrtiin to subject me, at least, to the loss of
my saddle-bags. Now, a traveller who had just
crossed European Turkey, and passed through Bosnia
and Albania in a state of insurrection, without receiving
the slightest molestation, might be supposed to possess
a sufficient share of courage to venture anywhere ; but
whether the Santa Maura fever had damped my spirits,
or that I concluded my character of Frank would not
be a protection against the bullet of a mountain klepht
of Young Greece, I resolved to wait for the Austrian
steamer, and go hy sea.
During the few days I remained at Patras, the
inhabitants were kept in a constant state of alarm —
fcll
ai > < M i
MbHdHiUi
■Jll * « I itii I
.•i".'!^
ij**>r>i
236
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
such beating of drums, such crying of proclamations
in the streets. At one time, we were told that the
rebel Grudotti was killed! and his adherents cut to
pieces! at another, that the rebel Grivas had escaped
from Turkey, and was marching on the town, at tho
head of his brigand countrymen of Acamania ! One
fine morning we were awoke from our slumbers by the
loud roll of the drum, and the call to arms ; this time,
there was really some cause of alarm, owing to the
escape of a number of prisoners, confined in one of the
ruined towers of the Acropolis. It was feared that
these desperadoes, composed of political delinquents,
convicted assassins and brigands, on uniting in
sufficient force with the disaffected klephts of the
adjoining mountains, would return, attack the town,
and plunder it. I verily believe that a few hundred of
them would suffice at any time to sack Fatras, or any
other town in Greece, so wide is the difference between
the sickly, enervated inhabitants of the one, and the
robust devilry of the other ; to which we may add the
military are not always to be depended upon, parti-
culariy at a time when the entire country was distracted
with political parties, and when it merely required the
presence of a clever adventurer to hoist the colours of
his party to be certain of finding adherents.
It is true, a traveller ought to be cautious how he
depicts the character of the people among whom he
may chance to be sojourning, yet he cannot shut his
eyes to notorious fects. We must, however, in jus-
tice attribute a great deal of the demoralization of this
mt*
BIODERN GREECE. 237
unhappy people to the government of the weak,
vacillating bigoted Prince, that fate selected to be their
nder, at a moment when they were just emerging
from the barbarism of centuries — at that critical
period, when the first signs of returning life appeared ia
the national spirit, and when a community is so easily
moulded for go6d or evil.
The flagrant abuses then introduced, the shameless
refusal of their liberties, and the venality and worth-
Icssncss of the men called to power, exerdsed a most
pernicious influence on the character of the people.
Knowing this, and that Modern Greece b not without
men of the highest virtue, education and talent, whose
patriotism would be an honour to any country, we
sympathise with this poor, worried, ill-used people.
How different might have been the result, had they
fallen under the rule of an enlightened legislator, who
knew how to avail himself of the traits that distinguish
the national character : the brilliant imagination, the
ready conception and quickness of intellect, which now
plunge them into vice, if properly directed by example
and education, might have been the means of leading
them to habits of industr}', and rendering them peaceful
members of society.
Prejudiced in favour of caste, divine right, and all
the forms and etiquette of a petty German Court, the
Bavarian Prince introduced among a people, ruined by
war and devastation, and scarcely numbering nine
hundred thousand, those expensive habits of adminis-
tration which are only appropriate at the Coivt of a
238 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
greati wealthy nation. Instead of estabUshing schools
of indusby, model fannsi and other useful institutions,
so necessary to a people who had been so long the
victims of Mahometan misrule, and were just awaking
firom the sleep of ignorance^ marshals and generals of
the army, and admirals and captains of the navy, were
created, together with lords and ladies of the bed-
cumber, and a host of pdd menials, favourites and
pensioners of the royal bounty, eating up the revenues
of the country, and causing dissatisfaction, envious
feelings and jealousy among ' all dasses of the popu-
latioo.
Again, it was impossible that a Prince of the illus-
trious house of WitteJsbach, could submit to any
control, but his own royal will ; but the unruly Greek,
so different fiom the patient Michel of bis own *' Deut-
sdien Fatherland,'* headed by Kaler^, the Jupiter of
the day, burst upon the slumbers of the bewildered
despot, and offered him the choice of two things —
either to grant a constitution, and be content to reign
according to the laws of the country, or to step on
board a vessd lying at the Piraeus, ready to convey
Urn to his own fiitheriand.
This was a most impudent proposal from a con-
temptible Palikari, dressed in a white fustanell, red
cap, and belt full of pistols ; however, there was no con-
tending against an armed multitude, who had even the
audacity to plant a cannon at every door of the palace of
their King. The long-promised constitution was granted,
wmom to on the Evang^ts, and proclaimed. The
!
•!*■*■«■
MODERN GREECE. 239
people were mad with joy; Athens was niuminated,
feasting and rejoicing became the order of the day ; and
that nothing should be wanting to prove the sincerity
of the constitutional King, a new Ministry was formed,
with Mavrocordato at its head, whose high character is
too well known to require any praise from the pen of a
traveOer. It is sufficient to say, that under the
enlightened administration of that able minister,
the revenue continued to increase, and industry and
commerce to flourish, to an extent before un-
known in Modern Greece.
In the meantime, the mortified King, absolved from
his oath by the priests of his own faith, the Roman
Catholic, and ddcd by the despotic party, resolved on
revenge. Agents were employed to sow dissensions
among the people, and when their plots were matured, the
fickle multitude, their pockets lined with silver, and their
heads crazy with raki, rose up in arms, and with tumul-
tuous cries surrounding the palace, demanded the expul-
sion of the Anglo-Greco Ministry of Prince Mavrocordato.
They also insisted that their former hero Kalergis should
be delivered up to them to be instantly put to death ; and
he would have been massacred, as the patriot himself in-
formed me when I met him at the Island of Zante, had he
not found means to escape. Thus on the 1 6th of August,
1 844, King Otho had the satisfaction of hearing himself
proclaimed by the mob of Athens " Despotic monarch of
Greece I^ From henceforth this ill-advised Prince was
influenced to regard England and every Englishman as
his secret enemy. General Church, a distinguished
240 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
f
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oflker, who fought so nobly and so long in the cause
of Greek independence, was marked out as the first
victim^ by being deprived of his command as Inspector-
General of the Forces. The royal displeasure was next
«
aimed at our worthy representative^ Sir Edmund Lyons, i
at an times and on all occasions the ardent friend of \
Greece, who now found himself recdved at Court with a ) ■.^.
coldness bordering on indvility. H \
From this time till the denouement of the drama,
in 1849, the petty kingdom of Greece with its lillipu-
tian capital, Athens, became the centre of political
squabbles — the arena where the battle was to be decided,
as to whether man was to be ruled by constitutional
or despotic principles. Poor King Otho was regarded
as a martyr to the crooked and ever-grasping policy of
perfidious Albion, which under the plea of supporting
constitutional principles, sought in his downfall the '
annexation of Greece to its other possessions in the I i
Ionian Isles, to be erected into a monarchy for His i
Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge 1
This, and a thousand other absurdities, were cver}'-
where circulated, and obtained credence not only among
the ignorant multitude in Greece and other countries, {
but found their way into the palace, and were believed (
by many a cabinet minister. The other petty despots
of Europe, whose thrones already tottered beneath them,
could not understand from whence came the pressure —
the determination of intellectual man to be governed
by free institutions. Taking their cue from King Otho
and Greece, they poured out invective after invective
MODERN GREECB. 241
against Lord Palmcrston, till it became fashionable in
every town on the continent to abuse Palmerstomel
His lordship was denounced as a spedes of rqiublican
Mephistophdes — the sworn enemy of kings — the brand
to kindle the fires of anarchy and revohition. The
servib press of Germany, France^ Spain and Italj
teemed with the abuse of the obnoxious minister, thmt
all the world feared. In the salon, at the dinner-tabl^
on the promenade, at the theatre, in short, everywhere
that man congregated, nothing else was heard in every
language, and among every people but the name rf
Palmerstone ! who, like the Wandering Jew, was to be
found eveiywhere, the prime mover of every agitation,
the night-mare of Czars, Kaisers, K5nigs, Princes^ and
diplomatists of every degree.
We left King Otho in the plentitude of despotic
rule, surrounded by his lazzaroni guards, at Athens.
Still there was one great difficulty to be surmounted,
the wheels of government were clogged by an over-
whelming majority of constitutional members, who,
maddened with defeat, cemented their bonds of union
yet doser, and defeated every ministerial measure
brought before the house. At the mandate of the
King, the Assembly was dissolved, and now commenced
the tug of war ; and as we happened to be in Greece
at this time, a slight sketch of the manner in which
electioneering is there carried on, may not be alto-
gether uninteresting to the English reader, who knows
fit)m experienoe, the degree of excitement consequent
on the dection of a representative in Parliament, even
VOL. n. R
242 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
■
in his own more temperate dime. At this time Louis-
Fhillipe of France was at the very height of his popula-
rity, and having out-manoeuvred the English cabinet,
in the affair of the Spanish marriage, was regarded
as the Ulysses of European politicians — a worthy anta-
gonist to be employed agmnst the English Mephisto-
pheles. We forbear to dweQ upon the means he
employed, it is sufficient to say, that apprehensive an act
of such flagrant bad faith and duplicity might involve
him in a quarrel sooner or later with his powerful
neighbour, he threw off all reserve, and entered the
lists at once with Austria, in a crusade against the
political and commerdal interests of England in Greece
and elsewhere, and commenced by declaring himself the
supporter and confidential adviser of King Otho, hoping
by this means to secure to France a pied-a-terre in
the Mediterranean, in the event of hostilities. To
fiunlitate his design, M. Coletti, who was then the
representative of Greece at the Comi; of the Tuileries,
returned to Athens, and became the prime minister of
Greece, and the dme damni of Louis-Phillipe. Sup-
ported on one side by M. Prokesch, the Austrian
ambassador, whose object was to carry out the principles
of his government, which wars against everything
liberal and constitutional; and on the other by M.
Pescatory, the French minister, who, in opposing the
constitutional party, was only fulfilling the orders of his
government, to weaken the interests of England by every
means in his power, the Greek nnnister, as might be
supposed, with such able coadjutors carried all before him.
MODERN 6REECB. 243
Since wc arc not writing the history of Greece, we must
pass over the various disgraceful scenes which now took
place in every part of Greece, and which reflect so much
disgrace on the poHtical character of Loms-Phillipe
and his minister M. Guizot Besides the IVench minister^
M. Pescatory, who ruled supreme at Athens, and might
be termed the Directeur^GAitral^ there was the FVendi
Consul at Syra, M. Roujaux, a sort of half Frenchman,
half Greek, commandant'en-chef to conduct the deo-
tioneering tactics. This expert manceuvrer had two
interests in view, those of France, and his father-in4aw,
M. Coletti, the prime minister. To ensure success,
he was liberally furnished with money, at the expense
of the triple alliance ; he had a steam-boat, and soldiers
at his command, and he was to be found in every place
where there was likely to be a contested election, em-
ploying bribery, force, and intimidation to support the
ministerial candidate, till ** a dollar or a bullet," for the
man who voted for, or against, the interest of M. Coletti
became a by-word among the Greeks. Where it was
practicable, the constitutionalists were denounced as
traitors, and in the most arbitrary manner shut up in
prison, till the election was over ; and we do not exag-
gerate, when we say, through the all-powerful influences
of bribery and intimidation, fraudulent bankers, captains
of banditti, and, in one instance, a convicted assassin,
were elected as members of the memorable Greek
ParUament of 1847.
We do not wish to be personal in publishing the
names of certain individuals who were elevated to the
R 2
•^rnKMimt^
244 TRAVELS IN EUROPBAN TURKEY.
dignity of legislators^ in the hope, that now they have
advanced a step in the scale of social life, they may be
induced to mend thdr evil ways ; neither do we wish
to be too severe on the character of those over whom
the tomb has dosed. But how strildogly remarkable
was the denouement : on my arrival at Athens, I found
the Greek Minister, M. Coletti, a martyr to a severe
disease, and a few days afterwards foUowed his remains
to the grave. The loss of so dever a man was a
terrible shock to King Otho and the despotic party.
'' Misfortunes, however, sddom come single." An alli-
ance got up for the avowed purpose of weakening the
power and influence of England in the Mediterranean,
conducted with so mudi baseness and low intrigue, was
not destined to prosper; and, if we were inclined to
be superstitious, we would advise BVance and Austria
never again to form an alliance, as it ever appears to
lead to a catastrophe, equally fatal to both. The marriage
of Marie Antoinette with Louis XVI. was followed by
the French revoluUon ! — the destruction of monarchy 1
— the death of the King ! — and a thirty years' war !
Again, from the moment that Napoleon chose for his
wife an Austrian Princess, his fortunes declined ! And
last of all, we have seen Louis-Phillipe at the very height
of his power — his ill-gotten throne, as it were consoli-
dated by his secret and open alliances with the despotic
Princes of Europe, hurled to the ground ! and he him-
adf forced to become an exile in the country whose
counsds and interests he sought to undermine; and
the unludcy House of Austria, how manifold were
MODERN GREBCB. 245
its dangers? and how narrowly did it escape de-
struction !
To deluded Greece the alliance has been also pro-
ductive of evil. Had its weak-minded monarch followed
the counsels of the only power that really sought the
welfare of Greece, and whose interests as a commercial
country must ever be to see it rich and flourishing, the
events which followed, so distressing to the generous
nature of an Englishman, and so fatal to the prosperity
of a young country, never would have taken place.
Poor people, they have been taught a rude lesson ! This
is still more lamentable, when we reflect that the indus-
trious classes have been the principal sufferers. Yet we
cannot see how this could have been avoided — the sys-
tematic hostility — the repeated insults rendered for-
bearance any longer an impossibility, and having wit-
nessed a great deal of this during my wanderings in
Greece, I may be allowed an opinion, and truly those
powers who, to gratify their own selfish purposes, trained
and marshalled their credulous \ictims, the Greeks, in
their hostflity towards England, ought in all justice to
be made responsible for the loss sustained by the Greek
people.
During the ascendancy of the Triumvirate, it is but
justice to add that Russia did not openly interfere in the
politics of Greece, nor, truth to say, was it necessary, for
the agents of Louis-Fhillipe and Austria were advandng
her cause — the progress of despotic principles^ by every
means ingenuity could devise. However, from the mind
of a people like the Greeks, so quick-witted, and withal
■Hiffr^<e"j<. tf. ...wi.i'..'.., >..^ -jij'i
«v««-"».
4
i
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246 TRAVELS IN BUROPSAN TURKEY.
80 Ignorant of the great world and its politics, so vain-
glorious, so self-sufficient, so open to adulation, and
so easily influenced by the counsds of strangers, the •
effects of an this political intrigue may not be easily
eradicated.
Amoi^ other absunfities they have been taught to
look forward to the establishment of a Greek empire.
In consequence of these warlike dreams, industry and
laborious pursuits are abandoned by the majority of the
people for the igmu fatuus of enriching themselves by , ^
Turkish conquest; and how demoralized have they \
become. Every where around us we see turbulence and |
Ascord — here a military mob headed by contending j|
chieftains — there public functionaries rivalling each other
in firaud and rapadty, and the entire country infested by
highway robbers. Truly this cannot be wondered at
under an administration so vicious, when so late as the
year 1847, the Minister of Police himself was tried as a
robbar, which profitable profes^on it appears he had
exercised very much to his own advantage, and that of
lus ^subordinates, ever since he had been placed in office
by liis friend and patron, the late prime minister,
M. Coletti.
As one of the contributors to the Greek loan, we may
be allowed to ask : What has become of the millions lent
to the Greek Government for the purpose of improving
the condition of the country and the people ? There is i '
no colonization, scarcely any new roads, no security to | ]
the traveller. No doubt his Majesty has spent the i
monc^ like a King. At all events he may if he pleases
■4
1
f
^
^
fr
r
i
MODERN GREBCS. 247
regale the bond-holders in lus palace of Pentdican
marble, which cost three hundred thousand pounds.
As to the public revenue, it scarcely suffices to uphold
the dignity of the court, and to pay the host of place-
men who have nothing to do but to prey upon the ^tals
of Greece.
We regret we have been obliged to pass so severe m
censure upon the administration of King Otho and his
Government ; the error commenced, however, with the
Bavarian, Count Armenspcrg and the regency, and truly
the great powers never committed a greater mistake
than the attempt to impose upon a people, Asiatic in
their manners and customs, the complicated machinery oi
a European government, more particularly the abomin-
able despotism of the German bureaucracy. Had the
Greeks, like the Servians, been left to select a ruler
among themselves, and to model their laws and institu-
tions in a manner suited to the habits and wants of the
people, we should have found them far more prosperous
and contented.
We do not, however, despair for a people who, though
deteriorated by an admixture of inferior races, resemble
in many points of their character the andcnt Hellenes ;
the enthusiasm and devotedness they display only require
the guiding influence of a modem Cadmus, to place
them upon a level with the most enlightened and
talented races of modem times; but that they will
ever again play a prominent part in the great theatre of
the world, as some Pbilhenenes would make us bdicve^
is utterly impossible. Among the great and powerful
*
248 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
\
il
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'
nations that have gradually grown up in Europe, thqr
are but as a drop of water in the ocean ; again^ as a
nationality, the Greek b not in &vour vdth the other
races in European Turkey, to whom they are inferior in
numbers and in many sodal virtues, and who even if the
Tuik was driven from Europe would never submit to
ihdr rule.
Nations, like individuals, even the most energetic and
enterprising, do not jump in a moment from poverty
and insignificance to wealth, power, and dominion. In
the great strife of nations, the Greek has much to learn
and many hard trials to encounter. Knomng this, we
would recommend our friends, the Greeks, to abandon ' f t
the xgnusfatuus of a Greek empire, at least for the pre- ^
sent, and to turn their attention to the large territory >
already in their possession, with its fine seas and har-
bours, inviting the commerce of the world, and so fertile .
as to be capable of maintaining, at the lowest calculation, - i
five million of inhabitants. Therefore, instead of feeling
any jealousy towards Great Britain for its occupation of
the Ionian Isles, they ought to be thankful that Pro-
vidence has placed under its enlightened tutelage such a
large portion of their race, who may hereafter serve as a \\
nursery of wdl informed intellectual men to guide and
direct the destinies of their race. They have been too
long the dupes of intriguing agents, and late events
must have taught them how dangerous it is to tease the
British lion. But we are turning preacher instead of
travdler, so we will end with hoping the Greek will take
the hmt and profit by iL
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MODERN GREECE. 249
CHAPTER XIIL
Steamboat voyages to Athens — AdTanta£;es of steam uaTigatioB
— Austrian steamers — Passengers — Missolongbi — Scenery of
the Gulf of Lepanto — ^Vostitza— Greek soldiers — Insalubri^
of parts of Greece — Causes — Arrival at Lutrachi — Corinth-
View from the Acropolis — Passage across the Isthmus of
Corinth — Calamaclii — The Piraeus — Greek touters — The
troubles of a traveller — Passports and custom-house officers
— Increasing prosperity of the Piraeus — Sketch of the
inhabitants — Environs.
While I sat at the open window of my hotel moral-
izing over the rise and fall of nations, the Austrian
steamer came roaring and splashing into the harbour of
Patras, crowded with passengers, natives of £urope and
Asia, speaking all the languages of Babd, and habited
in every costume.
Oh Steam ! immortal Watt ! the nations of the
world that bene6t so largely by the operations of thy
great mind, ought to erect to thy memory a monument
which should surpass in grandeur the loftiest pyramid
of Egypt Through thee the process of regenerating
the inhabitants of the most benighted countries has
250 TRAVELS IN EUBOPBAN TURKBT.
oommenoecL A litde longer, and we shall see aH
national prejudices of reEgion and race removed, and
regions that are now a desert, become the home of
civilized man.
In the hit land of the Crescent, we already behold
some oi the most beautiful countries in our hemisphere,
rising into a new state of existence, and attracting to
them the attention of the oommardal and political world.
In truth, the whole of these waters, the Mediterranean,
the Adriatic, and the Archipelago, the Euxine, and the
Sea of Marmora, with many of the inland lakes and
rivers, offer every fadlity for steam navigation ; and if
the Heterists and Panslavists, with the non-reforming
Mahometans, will only remain qmet for a few years
longer, we shall see them crowded with steamboats,
which win introduce such numbers of intellectual Euro-
peans among the people who inhabit their shores, as
cannot fail to have a favourable effect upon their cha-
racter and halnts.
With the exception of a few En^h and French
steamers, which occasionally visit these seas, the Austrian
Steam Navigation Company may be said to monopolize
the trade. The vessels they employ in this service are
but indifferent, and constantiy getting out of order;
still, bad as they are, they have driven the tall mast
witii its flowing canvas out of the water, and flounder
on in spite of wind and weatiier, and their servants being
more accommodating, and their charges less expensive
to the ordinary traveller, than dtiier the French or the
English, they are always crowded with passengers. If
MODERN GBEECB. 251
we may draw an inference firom the receipts of the
Austrian Company, there cannot be a doubt a few
additional English steamers, weQ conducted, containing
proper accommodation for traveDers and merchandize
and the charges reasonable, would prove a most profit-
able speculation.
But to return to our steam-boat expedition, we found
the deck covered with passengers, and, truth to say, it
required no little care to pick our footsteps so as not to
incommode them, for nearly the whole, according to
oriental custom, were squatted about on their carpets.
In addition to European travdQers, there were Jews,
Turks, and Armenians, Greeks and Albanians, Snzars
and Slavonians of every tribe, all habited in their respec-
tive costume, or distinguished by some national trsut
casQy known to the experienced traveller.
The orientals, who would require the pcndl of an
artist to do them justice, decked in all their flimsy finery,
lay about in groups, smoking the tchibouque, or tcDing
their beads — ^here devouring bread and garlic, and there
swallowing copious draughts of rakia. The stench fit)m
these nomades was intolerable when the wind happened
to blow fit)m their quarter, and to add to our discom-
forts, at least for a cabin passenger, the deck was
portioned off to make room for the first dass deck
passengers, a nuisance which, while it curtiolcd our
promenade, exposed us to the near vicinity of companions
who, to the horror of the traveQer fix)m Western Europe^
were busily employed in removing firom their garments
certain little tormentors ; at the same time, displaying
252 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
thdr merdful dispositioos by pladng the tiny plagues
quietly on the deck in the full enjoyment of life and
liberty.
On descending into the cabin, we found a more select
party. There was the Austriw minister at Athens,
Baron Prokesch, the autocrat of the drcle, together with t I
several distinguished travellers from nearly every country r i
in Europe. Among them I was glad to find an old : j
acquaintance. Prince Constantine Soutza, of Moldavia — . i
Mr. Jean, a professor from Oxford — and one or two 1^ j
English gentlemen not come out in search of the true |
diurch 1 like some of our dreaming travellers in the
present day, but to pay their homage to the classic soil
of inunortal Greece.
Our companions of the cabin were nearly all citizens
of the world — ^men who had travelled far, and mingled
frody with the inhabitants of every country in Europe,
and having studied their laws and institutions, they had
learned to think for themselves, and expressed their sen-
timents with that freedom of opinion which disdains
anything in the shape of national prejudice, or this or
that poli(^, at variance with the enlightenment of the \ \
age. I j
Our conversation was alternately in French, German, ! \
Italian, and English, and being now in Greece, Gredan
pditics naturally formed the principal topic of discussion.
This all-absorbing subject led to an animated contest
between the Austrian minister and the gallant but
unfortunate B ! The fiery Hungarian, after re-
viewing the dark policy of Austria at Tamow, in
t
MODERN GREECE. 253
Poland, and her intrigues among the Slavonian subjects
of Hungary, reverted to the events now passing in
Greece with so much acrimony as to overthrow the
equanimity even of the practised Austrian diplomat, who^
after foaming and blustering, gave up the contest, and
retired to his cabin during the remainder of the voyage.
Our tub of a steamer, here dassicaDy termed a
Pyroschape, made about three knots an hour. True^
we were in Greece, and the Austrian directory, in its
laudable consideration for the instruction and amuse-
ment of the traveQer, does not wish to hurry him through
such classic scenes 1 Indeed, our voyage was the very
beau ideal of sailing, for unless a thunder-storm should
occur, or a sub-marine shock of an earthquake, no
uncommon occurrence in these seas, this beautiful gulf
is seldom agitated by even a swell during summer, and
thus we kept gliding from bay to bay with agreeable
society, and a tolerable cuisine, sufficient to satisfy every
reasonable desire.
Greece has been already explored and described till
the subject is almost exhausted, still, with my classical
friend, M. Sandrini, and a learned professor from Ox-
ford, Mr. Jean, at my elbow, with their books and maps
spread out before them, we may be excused if we now
and then make an allusion. But the reader need not
fear ; we are neither rapt, nor inspired, or even suffi-
ciently versed in classic lore, to plunge too deep into
antiquities.
On leaving Patras, the eye of the traveller is involun-
tarily attracted towards Missolonghi, immortalized as
234 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the spot where one of England's greatest poets breathed
his last, and where one of the most sanguinary contests
during the war of independence between the Greeks and
the Turks took place. Apart from the classical recollec-
tions attached to the Gulf of Lepanto, there was nothing to
interest the general traveDer. The Gulf itself, winding
through a double diain of mountsdns, pQcd upon each
other, is picturesque enough, but the repetition of cold
naked rocks, with here and there a miserable village
surrounded by a patdi of fruit trees and vines, conveys
to the mind of the traveller an impression of poverty in
the people, and sterility in the soil We must, however,
penetrate into the interior, and see the number of beau-
tiful vall^ which only require inhabitants to teem
again with fertility, as in the days of the ancient
Greeks.
Our steam-engine having become somewhat irregular
in its action, we remained upwards of an hom- at
Vostitza tin it was again put in order, which afforded
us an opportunity of seeing something of the little town
and the country in its vicinity, and if this was in reality
the ancient Egium, it does not contain a single vestige
of the grandeur of a city where history tells us the chiefs
and mighty men of andent Greece were accustomed to
assemble and hold their congress, and where the hero
Fhilopcemen, ** the last of the Greeks,** formed a league
for the defence of Greece against the Romans, and who,
if he had not been opposed through the jealousy of the
other States, might still have arrested the impending
fiite of Greece. Since the introduction of steam-
MODERN GREECB. 256
navigation the little port of Vostitza may be said to be
in a progressive state of improvement. Among an
assemblage of huts we see a few houses of European
architecture, these with one or two English vessels in
the harbour waiting for a cargo of currants, imparted an
aspect of commerdal enterprise. Whatever the old
town might have been, the modem Egium bears the
character of being extremely unhealthy, owing to the
marshes in its vicinity, of which we had a lamentable
proof in the ghastly features of a detachment of Greek
soldiers we took on board — the commander assuring us
he had lost nearly half his men during the time they
were quartered here, aggravated no doubt by incessant
fiitigue, as the men were obliged to be always on the
alert to maintain their position against the number of
rebels and brigands, who held undisputed possession of
the neighbouring mountidns.
The insalubrity of so many districts in Greece is
referrable to a variety of causes. Tlie fall and conse-
quent depopulation of a country ever exercises a perni-
cious effect on its soil and climate. Rivers hitherto
restnuned within their proper channels bdng neglected,
obstructions have arisen, leading to the formation of
vast marshes. Again, the forests by which the moun-
tsdns were formerly covered, so sacred to the ancient
Greeks and so valuable in a southern dimate, on
account of their tendency to attract rain, having been
cut down by the Romans and other barbarian invaders,
the loss to agriculture has been irreparable. Even the
rivers, the source of health and fertility in other ooun-
256 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
tries are not so in this, the action of a burning sun, and
the sluggish pace at which they pass onward, renders
the water so noxious during the heat of summer, that a
fever is certsun to be the consequence of drinking it.
The setting-sun with its departing glory, lighted up
Corinth and its Acropolis as we cast anchor at Lutrachi,
appearing from the deck of oiu- steamer as if the
barbarians had just set fire to them. ** Corinth the
wonder of the world ! the cradle of liberty ! the seat of
heroism 1** was heard echoing from lip to lip with
enthusiasm by the passengers. Having visited this
wonder of the world at a subsequent period, we will
break the chain of our tour and describe what we
then saw.
Corinth is now a miserable heap of ruins, with from
twenty to thirty huts inhabited by fishermen, whose
character for honesty will not bear investigation. The
unimportant remains of an amphitheatre, the ruins of
the church where St Paul is said to have preached, the
walls of a tower of enormous thickness, a few columns
of Jupiter's temple, and the baths of Venus, are all that
the barbarism of a rude age and the Greek revolution
have left to posterity.
A party of Franks and their guides armed to the
teeth, struggling up the hill, drew forth the whole popu-
lation of Corinth, and we were presentiy surrounded by
a crowd of half naked women and children, screaming
in good Italian, ** Carita Signori 1" In vain I sought
among the throng for some descendant of the beautiful
Lsus, whose statue turned the heads of the gallants of
MODERN GREECE. 257
Corinth ; in features they appeared to be a mixture of
Tatar and Grecian, and the dress of both matrons and
damsds was the same as that which Penelope might have
worn at this season of the year. Unhappy Corinth, so
often sacked and plundered, and its inhabitants carried
away into captivity, we doubt whether it now contains a
single descendant of its ancient masters. The great
attraction, and indeed the only one to the traveD^r who
now risits Corinth, is the view from the Acropolis one of
the most extensive and interesting in Greece, hallowed as
it is by so many associations to the scholar and the
historian.
Plutarch says that Corinth was the ornament of
Greece — the rival of Athens, surpassing it in wealth,
painting, and sculpture. Standing on the isthmus
commanding the Adriatic and JEgcon Sea, its situation,
could not fail to render it a great commercial emporium.
With so many advantages, it is to be regretted that
Corinth had not been selected as the capital of modem
Greece. It is more central than Athens ; its Acropolis
might be made a Gibraltar in strength, and as to a
commercial position it has not its equal in Greece,
owing to the facilities with which its inhabitants could
carry on the trade of the Levant and Asia, and at the
same time that of the Western World.
We said that our steamex arrived at Lutrachi, here
we passed the night on board. The directors very
civilly chaiging the first-dass passengers half a dollar
each, for permisaon to stretch themsdves on the benches
and floors of the cabin 1 In the same manner you are
VOU Ih 8
258 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
diarged for so many meals a-day whether you partake
of them or notT In short, there is a great deal of
despotism ahout these stcam-hoat functionaries of his
Kaiserliche, Kdnigliche Majestat of Austria ; but having
as it vfere the monopoly in those seas, they can do just
as they please. Any other Steam Na^ogation Company
that would run thdr vessels equally cheap and conduct
them better, would drive them completely out of the
water, for in addition to being dirty they are full of
rats; several of the passengers were bit during the
night, particularly my friend M. Sandrini rather severely
in the ear.
The next mormng our baggage was landed, and after
a great deal of confu^on, we were stowed away in every
species of vehicle from a char-a-banc to a Tatar two-
wheeled car, and driven over the Isthmus to Calamachi,
exposed to the, heat of a sun suffident to have produced
a coup-desoleU, The narrowest part of the Isthmus
is about six English miles in width, and it does not
offer a single obstade to the laying dovm of a line of
railway, or what would be better still, cutting a canal to
unite the Adriatic with the ^gean Sea. The ancient
Greeks would have done it, had they been united under
one government Vestiges of the wall built by the
Pdoponnesians, when they apprehended invasions by
the Persians, are still to be seen. On this spot also were
cdebrated the Isthmian games, and a grove of gnarled
pines in the vidnity, is still pointed out from which
gariands were stud to have been made to crovm the
victorl
MODERK GREECE. 259
At Calamachi we remained till the steam-boat arrived
to take us to the Piraeus, which we did not reach till
late in the evening ; at tius time the Piraeus presented
a most warlike appearance, there was the English fleet
on one side of the bay and the united French and
Austrian on the other, looking at each other most
fiercely, as if they were about to dedde by force of arms
whether the Greeks were to be governed according to
the prindples of representative government or despo-
tism; behind them lay at a little distance a Russian
frigate, perhaps meditating on what nught be its own
fate in the struggle ! The despotic princes of Europe^
when they attempted to crush the liberal tendencies of
young Greece, appeared to be little aware that demo-
cracy was then secretly winding in a thousand streams
through their own States, and only a few months after-
wards biurst forth in a mighty flood terrifying nations
with its violence.
In the midst of this warlike assemblage we cast
anchor, when presently we were boarded by a host of
porters, boatmen, and hotel jackals, sufflcient to throw
even Boulogne, of touting celebrity, in the shade. Such
screaming in all the various patois, Italian and Greek;
such scrambling after luggage, fighting, and roaring
'^Capitano! Ladril" as I never heard or saw before.
Here some luckless passenger was to be seen lamenting
over the loss of his luggage ; there another seeking after
some article of wearing apparel which he never found.
As for the carpet bags bdonging to the first dass pas-
sengers, they were attempted to be taken by storm ; this
s 2
260 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
continued till a guard of soldiers arrived, and with some
difficulty deared the deck.
As for myself, and several other experienced travellers,
ha^ng secured our luggage, we determined to pay the
half-crown to the directors, make the steamer our rest-
ing-place for the night, and wait for hroad day-light
before we landed among such suspicious-looking cha-
racters. Surely such a scene as this is sufficient to damp
the ardour of the most enthusiastic traveller, who comes
to admire everything in this land of demi-gods and
heroes.
On landing, we were surrounded by a party of men
armed with Albanian guns, pistols, and yataghans, of
sudi a cut-throat appearance, that had we met them in
the mountains we should have trembled for the contents
of our saddle-bags; they, however, proved to be the
dvilest custom-house officers I ever met with, and
seeing that we had nothing of the contrabandist in
our appearance, immediately signed our passports, and
aDowed us to pass with our baggage. So much polite-
ness made us forget the scene of the preceding night,
and with more pleasurable anticipations, we commenced
investigating the wonders of the land of Attica.
The old harbour of Athens promises to become a
flourishing town ; there were hotels, coffee-houses,
ranges of warehouses, and all the hurry and bustle of
a rising little port in Western Europe. The day was
exceedingly warm, and no doubt the better dasses, to
preserve their complexion, remained at home, for those
that we saw loitering about the streets appeared dirty
MODERN GREECE. 261
and squalid in their dress and appearance, and were
it not for the moustache, the men, who were of a very
diminutive stature, might have been taken for fish^, ^
women, the light waistcoat looldng like a bodice, and
the fustaneO, give it what name you please, is certainly
a petticoat ; and when not over dean, and somewhat in
rags, is by no means a becoming garment. The
seamen, probably natives of the Isles, were a fine set of
fcUows, and in some measure redeemed the national
character; they were dressed in a tight vest and em-
broidered jacket, and instead of the fustaneU wore an
ample shalwar, secured round the waist by a red sash,
with a long knife stuck in it ; while a red fez with a long
black tassel jauntQy stuck on the side of the head, gave
to their features, which were Grecian, an exprcsaon of
spirit and intelligence. There was a boldness and dar-
ing about them, a sort of rakish swagger, which might
impress a stranger that they were exactly the men who,
under certain circumstances might exhibit themselves as
illegitimate naval heroes — in plain English, corsairs.
With regard to the surrounding country, so rich in
classical recollections by land and sea, we shall say but
little ; th^ are already well known, and there can be no
mistake about the localities. The traveller now, as in
bygone days, has only to take a boat at the Piraeus and
visit the island of Egina and Salamis, and if he is
inclined he can ascend the throne of Xerxes, and at the
same time admire the prudence of that prince, who
showed his wisdom in the sdection, particularly as there
was no danger of a chance shot in those days of darts.
262 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
bows, and arrows ; and surely the traveOer, above all an
Englishman, cannot leave this coast without paying his
homage to the tomb of Themistodes, the glorious
patriot, the deliverer of his country, the most ardent,
entcrpriang, and brave of all the Greeks'..
MODERN GREECE. 263
CHAPTER XIV.
First impresaon of Adiens — Classical rccollectioiis — General
obsemtioiis cm the ruins of Ancient Greece — Hie £1^
Marbles — ^Tke Areopagus — St. Paul and tlie Athenians — ^The
prison of Socrates — ^The influence of Athenian dyilization on
posterity.
The world is inarching onward even in Greece, the
conservatives of whatever creed or opinion may lament,
but cannot arrest the movement On landing we found
the newsman crying the * Athens Gazette' about the
streets of the Piraeus ! and an omnibus ready to convey
passengers to Athens at a drachm^ each. M. Sandrini,
mysdf, and one or two other travellers^ from force of
habit took to the saddle, and sent our luggage by the
public conveyance. The Greeks have not improved the
breed of thdr horses nor their accoutrements ; in these
respects th^ are stiU behind the Turks, l^e horses,
although miserable little animals, struck us as having a
somewhat knowbg look as they peered out from beneath
an enormous saddle made of wood, which reached from
264
TRAVELS IN BUROPBAM TURKBT.
«• "il
the neck to the ta3 ; we were followed by the owners on
foot, who kept belaboaring them with sticks and stones,
and when these fdled they shouted and threw up their
red caps to frighten them. Tn this manner we con-
trived to advance, except when we diverged from the
highway to inspect some ruin, in which case we were
sure to stick in the sand 1
Our first view of Athens exdted a feeling of disap-
pointment, which even the distant prospect of its classic
ruins failed to dispd, and it must be confessed that the
aspect of the arid plidn of Attica, with its groves of ill-
^grown olive trees, and bare rocky mountains ; the broil-
ii^ sun, and the clouds of dust that were ever and anon
whirled aloft, almost blinding both man and beast, were
none of them calculated to create a favourable first
impression. The temple of Theseus, standing alone on
an elevated plateau, surrounded by a barren sandy soil,
appeared insignificant. Even the far-famed Acropolis,
situated on the summit of a naked rock, looked little
superior at a distance to a ruined fortress, with its ugly
tower built in the rude style of the architecture of the
fni^dfe aires.
In the midst of my reverie I heard one of my Ger-
man companions exclaim to his friend, ** Der Teufd I ist
das die berQhmte Athene ! Bei'm Himmel ! Heidelberg
mit sdnem schonen SchlossI Seinem Flussl Seinem
immer grunen Berg und fruchtbaren Ebene ist em Tau-
send millioncn mal sch5ner !*' It is most truel nature has
done but little for the land of the Athenian, and gazing
im the landscape, which does not present one picturesque
i
I*
1
«
i
MODERN GREECB. 265
object either in the outline of its mountains, or the fer-
tility of its plain, we are more and more astonished
at the industry and patriotism of its andent inhabitants^
who not only cultivated the ungrateful soil, but adorned
it with so many works of immortal fame.
Yet, however un&vourable may be the first opinum
formed by the traveller, he soon finds reason to modify
it when viewing in detail the splendid works whidi the
barbarism of ages has mercifully spared to our admira-
tion— monuments of the genius of a people who exceDed
the whole human race in all that is admirable and
beautiful in the art of construction, so perfect, in com-
parison with the productions of modem days, that we
might imagine, had we no records of the existence of
the people who reared them, that the Heavens had
opened and deposited on a barren rock the labour of the
gods. So transcendently beautiful is everything we
behold, that every firagment of the crumbling column —
the broken statue, and the shattered fiieze — bear
witness to the inimitable touch of a master hand. The
majestic Parthenon, the finest edifice, and the most
perfect in its construction ever erected by the hand of
man, cannot fail to surpass all our anticipations ; and it
is with equal delight and wonder that we turn to the
Temple of Theseus, the only one in Greece that has been
preserved almost entire through so many centuries of
barbarism.
If these biuldings, in their present dilapidated states
chain us to the spot with admiration, what must have
been thdr effect when they first, in all their majestic
266 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
grandeiuv rose horn the hand of the ardutect ? How
great must have been the enthusiasm, the pride of the
Athenians, when the scaffolding was removed, and they
behdd these inmiortal monuments of the genius and the
iodosby of thdr racel
I learned fix)m my friends at Athens, that IQng
Otfao's government intends to raise a subscription in
Burope, for the purpose of restoring the public buildings
of the ancient Greeks at Athens, and that a demand
would be made upon the British Government for the
restoration of the Elgin marbles I With respect to the
first, it is merely a flimsy expedient of a bankrupt
government to fill its empty exchequer ! At the same
time, we fed certain that the British nation would
wilhngly resign the Elgin marbles, if there was a posd*
biHty of replacing them in their original position.
Much has been said and written by foreigners, indeed
now and then by some of our countrymen, not very
&vourable to the character of Lord Elgin and the
British Government, for having deprived Athens of so
many beautiful works of Grecian art Those who are
so ready to censure, ought to remember that at the date
of their removal the Turks were masters of the country,
who, in conformity with their Mahometan prejudices
regard every representation of the human form divine,
as a violation of the second commandment If there-
fore Lord Elgin had not removed them, it is highly
probable that Turkish bigotry would have destroyed
these incomparable friezes. Again, even assuming that
Turidsh moderation had spared these treasures of art.
MODERN GREECE. 267
can it be supposed in the deadly struggle that subse-
quently took place between the Turks and the Greeks,
that either party would have paused to spare any
crumbling biuldings that stood in thdr way. With
these considerations in view, every admirer of the
matchless works of immortal Greece ought to tod
deeply indebted to his Lordship, who, in presenong
these beautiful friezes, conferred a b^iefit upon the
artist of every country.
Indeed, it has been doubted by men of the highest
taste, even if the Parthenon were restored, whether it
would produce the impression upon the beholder it does
now; there is a reverential enthusiasm excited by
dewing the successive dilapidations of ages, for,
however mutilated, or defaced, enough remains to call
forth our warmest admiration; and where is the
modem artist that would attempt to imitate and replace
the productions of Ancient Greece — ornaments chiseDed
with a delicacy and a skill, surpassing in beauty of effect
any tlung of which it could be believed marble was
susceptible. The triumph of art consists not alone in
the ample majesty of the design, we see it also in the
elaborate finish of the details. The Bourse and the
Madeleine church at Paris, with their forests of columns,
abundandy testify the inability of modem art to compete
with the denu-gods of Andent Greece ; and the expense I
the Parthenon alone, were it possible to erect a fiauv
simfle of it in any of our great capitals of the West,
would require an outlay of at least six millions steiling.
The Erecthean has suffered more scvcrdy than the
268 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Parthenon ; of the six splendid columns that adorned
its northo-n portico, there are only three standing, the
others were destroyed, with the greatest part of the roof,
during the nege of Athens in 1827*. The pillars of the
acQoiiung temple, dedicated to Minerva Polias, are the
most perfect spedmens of the Ionic existing. We can
still trace in the frieze of the beautiful little Temple of
Victory, the sculptured figures of the Greeks and
Peraans battUng on the plidns of Marathon. On
leaving the dtadd of the Athenians we pass under the
Ph)pyl8ea^ which, although mutilated and ruined,
enough remains to shew that it vras one of the most
magnificent portals ever reared by the hand of man.
Win<Ung roimd the base of the Acropolis, we come to
the Areopagus, the steep steps still exist in the rock, by
which the Athenian judges ascended at midnight, to pass
sentence on criminals, under the idea, that obscurity
prevented partiality.
To the Christian, this lull possesses a still greater
d^;ree of interest, when he reflects that it was from here
the greatest of all the Apostles, St. Paul, addressed the
Athenians in these memorable words, " Men of Athensl
in aD things ye are too superstitious !" and then, pointing
to the temples of idolatry rising up before him in all
their splendour and magnificence, with a boldness
unparalleled in the history of any other orator, ridiculed
their images, adorned w*ith all that art and wealth could
achieve. How strong must have been his conviction in
the truth of his inspirations, how fervent his fidth, how
ardent his dedre to convert mankind^ when he thus
MODERN GREECE. 269
dared to combat the prejudices of a people, who believed
themselves immeasurably superior to the rest of the
world.
Truly a belief in thc\ One living and true God, and
the immortality of the soul, as taught by Socrates and his
disciples, must already have made many converts among
the citizens of Athens, and prepared them to receive the
glad tidings of salvation ; otherwise we cannot believe
that a people so easily excited, would have listened
patiently to such severe denundations upon relig^oiis
institutions that had existed from time immemoriaL
The blind creduUty of fanaticisni would endeavour to
make us believe that the forbearance of the men of
Athens, was the effect of a miracle I What a libel on
the divine truths of Christianity to assert it had no
intrinsic merits, but was obliged to resort to miracles for
its advancement ? All outward forms have no endur-
ance, make no impression upon an intelligent mind, the
soul must be kindled, a religious sentiment awakened,
founded on common sense, divested of superstition, and
all the craft and devices of juggling priests to mystify
and enslave mankind. The creed of our Divine Master
requires no miracle to trumpet its worth, no idiom of
language, no figures of rhetoric, to express its doctrines,
no tradition to enhance its value. Simple in all its
forms, there is no comprehension, however weak, that
cannot understand its heaven-bom truths.
In every age there has been a great leading nation,
possessed of generous sentiments and willing to stand
forth for the interests of religion, justice, and humanity.
270 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
The Greeks, particularly the Athenians, having passed
through all the gradations of a nation rising horn
infSmqr to mature age, had become a reflective, a
philosophical people — ^in other. words they had out-
gnmn the superstition of ages. The deliision of fables,
the voice of the orade, the craft of the priesthood ; and
an the pomp and pride of the temple could not satisfy the
inquiring mind ; in a word, their faith in the old creed
.was utterly gone, when the Great Apostle of the
Gentiles appeared among them, and in accents full of
peace and charity breathed a new life — a religion of the
heart, into the desponding souls of the multitude, who
stood entranced aroimd him. It may be said, that fix)m
this time the Athenians became the ardent champions
of the Cross, they broke down with their own hands
the idols of the country, banished the priests, lidd bare
the secrets of a hierarchy that had for thousands of
years mystified the world, and converted the temple,
which was hitherto a den of thieves, into the house of
God.
Descending horn the Areopagus, and rising towards
the summit of another hill we come to the Bema — the
first tribime created by a free people in the world. The
view from here, although shorn of its ancient splendour,
is still interesting : there are the ruins of the Acropolis,
with the old town beneath it somewhat disfigured by
the barrack-like palace of King Otho, and the cluster of
white-washed modem houses in firont of it. The plain
of Attica, alasl no longer teemed with gardens and
orchards, the groves of Academus no longer shaded the
M(M»BH GmSBCS. S7I
preocpCoisof man, nren die IDysos refbsed to mrinder
as of (^ and fiertiEze die parcfaed-op sofl; nor do die
marUe mountains^ REntdkcas and Bames^ now
desdlnteof dieirfi)Rsts» tend to enliven die landscqieL
It was» however, some consohtion to knoir diaft we
were tieacfing die fiwtsteps of some of the gieiteat
men that have adorned die human raee.
I had for my ciceroni two intdEgcnt oompanions^
my fiiend M. Sandrini and Mr. Sydn^ Malthns, both
readents of Athens, who now oondocted me to what is
eaDed the prison of Soorates — a wild broken difl^ irith
a dark cavern in the centre. However doubtful mi^
be die tnufition, it is not uninteresting to enter dm
gloomy recess — now the abode of bats, toads and fizaids^
where the wisest of all the Greeks died a martyr to
his bdicf in the existence of the one fiving and true
God.
The prison of Socrates, with all the recollecdons it
is calculated to revive, might have led me into a train
of moralizing, not much perhaps cither to the edifica-
tion or amusement of the reader, had not my fiiends
reminded me of an engagement to dine with our
worthy representative, Sir Edmund Lyons, whose hos|»-
table house I should have made my home, in compliance
with his kind invitation, had I not been previously
engaged by my fiiend M. Sandrini ; indeed, to the fiiendly
attentions of these two gentlemen during my stay at
Athens, I shall ever consider I am most deeply indd)ted.
Such is the extraordinary interest exdted in the traveller^
who has trodden for the first time the dassical soil of
272 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Athens, that we had scarody finished dinner, when I was
desirous to resume my wanderings ; this time I was ac-
companied by Sir Edmund The moon was at the full
when we came to the ruined temple of Jupiter Olympus,
and in this imperfect %ht, its gigantic columns rose up
before me like a vision of enchantment, for standing as
they do in a solitary position, at some little distance
from the town, they appear as if situated in a desert
The impression these columns made upon me, then
so dimly seen, was so great, that I arose the next
mormng, at eariy dawn, to view in truth-tdling day-
%ht, the remuns of a fabric so stupendous, that
history teDs us six himdred years were required to com-
plete it. It was built of the purest white marble,
having a front of two hundred feet, and upwards of
three hundred feet in length, and contained a hundred
and twenty columns, sixteen of which alone remidn
and these with thdr rich Corinthian capitals; fluted
and rising, to a hdght of more than sixty feet, are
sufficient to give the spectator an idea of its beauty and
grandeur, and to exdte a r^ret that fate had not spared
it to posterity.
We may ask, as no doubt, other traveOers have
done, what has become of the remwider of these
stupendous columns? when we remember the vast
size of the blocks of marble used in their construction,
we must believe that they cannot altogether have dis-.
appeared. There is no fragment of them to be seen
here, and if thqr have been removed, they must atiU
exist m whatever part of the world they have been
MODERN GREECE. 273
transported to. Did the Emperor Adrian really com-
plete this prodigious edifice ? or did an order go forth
to that effect, which was never executed ?
While contemplating the magnificent buildings of
the Athenians, beautiful even in decay, and which still
serve as models for the most admired structures in
every part of the civilized world; the mind of the
traveller is inspired with a feeling of triumph, for he sees
in these monuments of the creative genius of the
andent Greeks, another evidence of the existence or
the spiritual part of man's nature, which has ever
shown itself at different epochs, and in different
countries, when man has attained a high state ot
civilization. The proofs of the extraordinary intellect
of this immortal people, survives not only in thdr
material productions, but in the writings of the philoso-
pher, the historian, the inspiration of the poet — the
eloquence of the orator, and in their language — ^which
through the genius of the people is still cultivated and
cherished by the civilized world, and was adopted by the
disciples and evangehsts of our Lord as a medium for the
propagation of the gospel. Thus we behold the little
state of Attica, about fifty miles in length, and thirty in
breadth, has exercised, and still continues to exercise an
enduring influence on the intellect of man.
VOL. IK
NJOWlMi » IW
274 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
ii
CHAPTER XV.
Modem Athens — ^Inhabitants— The brigands of Mount Hymetes
— Their capture of an Italian Duchess — Character of the
Modem Greeks^-Their superstitions — Similar to those of the
Andent Greeks-— The Oriental Church— General Tiew of its
doctrines and ceremonies— Its influences on the character of
the people— Venality of the Greek clergy — Popular super-
stitions— Comparison between the Oriental and the Latin
Church — Mr. and Mrs. Hill, American missionaries — ^Their
religious system of education — The diplomatic corps at Athens
— Modem Greece contrasted with the Principality of Serria —
Politics and religion — Concluding observations.
The city of Theseus has already become the habita-
tion of a host of needy adventurers and bankrupt specu-
lators. There are European shops and hotels^ coffee-
houses, and billiard-rooms; French hair-dressers and
mantua-makers ; Italian confectioners and German pipe
makers ; English drapers and Armenian money-lenders ;
Eastern bazaars and Jews' shops for the sale of old
dothes. In the streets we meet with kilted Greeks and
MODERN GRBBCB.
276
Albanians, Asiatic Turks, and Europeans of every nation.
If the inarch of utOitarian improvement should continue^
we shall see the temple of Theseus converted into a
warehouse, the Parthenon into an hospital; and work-
men have already commenced enclosing the temple of
Jupiter Olympus within the area of the King^s private
garden, which the satirical inhabitants of Athens say
is to be converted into a German Lusthaus I
Notwithstanding the heterogeneous assembly of
foreigners and natives, the general aspect of Athens is
sombre. In the old town, one meets with half-decayed
houses, Augments of buildings, pieces of ruined wall, and
huts built of bricks burnt in the sun 1 and in the new
town, showy structures in lath and plaster, which, how-
ever elegant they may be in appearance^ oblige you to
come to the conclusion that the builder when construct-
ing them, anticipated another inroad of the barbarians !
In the midst of this gay assemblage, the huge ugly
palace of the King, with its innumerable windows, is
seen rising high above alL A stranger would be very
apt to mistake it for a hospital, or barracks.
We regret that we cannot extol the character of the
present inhabitants of the classic soil of Attica. Thuqr-
dides says, that a great part of Greece, even in his day,
was far from being civilized, and that certwi mountain
districts were infested with robbers. If such was the
condition of Greece in her best days, before her children
had deteriorated by an admixture of so many inferior
races, we fear that there are certain vidous tendendes in
the character of the Greeks difficult to era^cate.
T 3
276 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
In the best reguhted couDtries, we find a sufficient
number of ill disposed persons, ever ready to prey upon
the industrious part of the community, but deeds of
brigandage appear to be perpetrated here with an
audacity unparallded, and so systematic, that a stranger
might conclude th^ were carried on with the connivance,
of the authorities. There are gens-d'armes and nightly
patrols established on the highway and in the towns,
still we are every day told, with the greatest nonchalance^
of traveDers being plundered, as if it were an event of
dafly occurrence.
During the time we remained at Athens, no one could
stroll b^ond the environs of the town without danger
of being captured by a famous brigand chief named
Bibes, who, having established his head-quarters on
Mount Hymcttus, continued to levy his tax, in defiance
of the government, upon every person who dared to
enter his domain. An Italian lady, the Duchess of
P-: f enamoured of the classic soil of Athens, made
it her home, purchased a farm, and built a summer
residence, in the vicinity of the mountains. Relying on
the gallantry of her neighbour the brigand chief, or
perhaps still more on the bravery of an escort of
between twenty and thirty gentlemen, on a fine sum-
mer's morning she left the broiling streets of Athens
with the intention of enjoying the bracing air of
the mountains, but whether Bibes was in want of
funds, or that he felt indignant at the lady's want of
entire confidence, the gallant cavalcade was met at an
ugly pass, by a file of ferocious looking Greeks, armed
J
MODERN GREECB. 279
with long Arnout guns, and brought to a stand ; when
on quietly surrendering every thing valuable about
them, the whole party were allowed to depart un-
molested, mth the exception of the unlucky Duchess, who
probably anticipating some mishap, had left home
without her watch and purse. Such commendable
foresight not suiting the views of Bibes, she was
detained a captive, till he received the ransom of a
thousand drachm^ !
Without referring to similar acts in other parts of
Greece, this is but a solitary instance among many of
the depredations of this brigand chief, and others of
his fraternity, almost within musket shot of the seat of
government Making every allowance for the misrule
of centuries, and the infusion of so many hordes of
barbarians, the more we study the character, manners,
habits, and customs of the Modem Greeks, whether
here or in those districts, still subject to the Turks, we
are reminded of many of the vices and defects, which
so glaringly appear in the history of the ancient HeUenic
race.
The same jealous and intense hatred now exists
between the inhabitants of certain islands and countries,
as that which formerly gave rise to the eternal wars
between Athens and Sparta, and the petty Kingdom of
Greece itself is as much a prey to cabals and factions as
the commonwealth of Ancient Greece, there is the
same tact displayed in undermining competitors, the
same venality, subtlety, and intrigue, resorted to in
obtaining preferment A like sinularity may be traced
278 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
in many of their superstitious and religious observances,
which have always such an influence upon the morals
and dvilization of a nation. If the andent Greeks
worshipped their legion of gods; their descendants
adore as many siunts, and they seem merely to have
changed the form of their orades, pladng as much faith
as ever in divinations, spells, rdics, mirades, and
amulets. If the ancient Greeks brought rich offerings
to the shrine of their gods, the modems are not a whit
behind them in the gaudy toys and tinsel rags th^
hang up around the sanctuary of their Sdnts.
It is wdl known that the Greek Church, or as it is
more generally termed, the Oriental, arrogates to itsdf
the title of being the only true and primitive church of
Christ, and differs from the Roman Catholic on certain
theological questions, particularly in denying the supre-
macy of the Pope, and also that he is the successor of
St Peter. We will, however, leave these theological
questions to be settled by the divines of each, and pro-
ceed to review those abuses in the disdpHne of the
Oriental church, which so glaringly obtrude themsdves
upon the attention of the traveller, and which prove
that the Greeks are the same credulous people as they
were in the days of the great apostle St. Paul, when he
denounced their idolatry and superstitions.
Among the long catalogue of abuses, there is none
productive of more fatal results to the well-being of
society than the confessional ! Equally open to censure
is the avowed traffic, carried on by the clergy, in the
sale of absolution. Every crime has its price, from
MODERN OREECB. 279
murder down to petty lareenyi ridng in proportion to
the rank and wealth of the offender. Divorce is a
dreadful source of corruption, even in the best ordered
countries, when not restrained by the laws of a wise
administration, but here, at the intercession of a husband
or wife who is able to pay the clergy, the sacred tie of
marriage is dissolved on the slightest pretence, and
without a triaL
Happily for the pockets of the poorer classes, the
expenses attending the ordinary services of the churdi
are regulated by a Government tariff ; but this does not
include those superstitious ceremonies so peculiar to the
Greek church, which ignorance and a designing, rapa-
dous priesthood have perpetuated among the credulous
multitude, and from long usage have become a part of
religion itself.
We will merely allude to a few of the most flagrant —
the sale of amulets, relics, the exorcism of mamacs
and idiots, the bewitched, and those afflicted with the
evil eye, the demoniac, &c., &c, — ^for all of which
money ! money I is demanded. The prayers of the priest
are also sought and paid for, to cure diseases in cattle,
to preserve silk worms, to prevent the blight in com
and fruit trees ; and if they fail, it is not supposed to be
the fault of the clergy, but the want of faith in those
that purchased them ! Then comes the blessing of the
sea, the rivers, fountains, and springs, by throwing little
wooden crosses into them — not to mention the multi-
plied uses to which holy water is applied — all forming a
source of profit. Extreme unction which must be per^
280 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
formed by seven priests, and excommunication is entirely
in the hands of the higher clergy, and brings them a
large revenue.
Excommimication, so much dreaded by the Greeks,
is not often inflicted, for a man once condemned by
the anathema of his church, is expelled from society in
this world, and damned to all eternity in the next, still
when the threat is held out by those who have the power
to execute it, the desired effect is certain to be produced
upon the weak mind — the extortion of money.
Fasting is considered in the Oriental Church as one
of the most important duties of a Christian ; and so
numerous are the days prescribed, that there are only a
himdred and thirty in the year free from the obligation.
As for the vigils, they are without end. The long
abstinence from nutritious food, particularly during the
whole of Lent, in addition to the unfavourable effect
it has upon the health of the people, renders them
morose, gloomy, and irritable ; indeed it has been proved
that more murders have been committed during Lent
than at any other season of the year. These fasts are
always succeeded by festivals, then the numbers of
holidays, the midnight masses, the endless processions
to the shrine of some favoured Stiint, all tend to
licentiousness, idleness, drinking, and carousing, in
short, to the destruction of the morals and industry of
the people.
Again the gross ignorance of the inferior clergy, not
only in theology, but in the common rudiments of
education, the dissolute habits of too many of the higher
MODERN GREECE. 281
ecclesiastics, and the infamous practices carried on in the
monasteries, have become household words throughout
all Greece ; but what does this signify to a dass who
hold the power of confessing and absolving each other,
and who act as they will, appear immaculate in the
opinion of the ignorant multitude.
The fanatic hatred of the followers of the Oriental
Church against the Roman Catholics, and the pow
Jews, exceeds all bounds. Protestants are somewhat in
&vour, not from any sinularity in faith, but because
they are, like themselves, opposed to the donunation oi
their old enemy, the Pope. In every part of European
Turkey, where there is a community of Oriental
Christians, they follow the ancient custom at Easter,
of dressing an effigy of Judas Iscariot in the costume of
a Latin monk, which is thrown into the centre of fire-
works, and blown into the air, to show their contempt
for the Jews, as well as the followers of the rival creed.
In Greece, out of respect for King Otho, who is a
Roman Catholic, the monkish dress was abandoned,
and the correct one of a Jew substituted; but in 18479
the Lazzaroni at Athens, who, since they were the first
to declare for the despotism of King Otho, exercise a sort
of mob sovereignty, thought proper to dress their puppet
in the uniform of an English soldier, by way of showing
their contempt for constitutional government. After
burning it amidst shouts of triumphant exultation, the
excited multitude, led on by their fanatic priests, and
the son of the Greek Minister of War, crying, " Tchi-
fout! Tchifout Ingleski!'' (English Jew) proceeded to
282 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the house of Mr. Pacifico, who, unluckQy for himself,
was doubly the object of their hate, as a Jew and an
Englishman, wluch they phmdered of every article of
value, and destroyed the furmture.
If we turn from religion to the superstitious practices,
so general among the people, we shall find a wide field
open to the animadversion of the traveller. The great
mass of the population here, like the Rayahs in
European Turkey, with some slight difference according
to the usages and customs of the various races, firmly
believe in apparitions, witches, sorcerers, the evil-eye,
love-potions, vampyres, and all the other wonders
cherished by mankind in a state bordering upon
semi-baibarism. You will even hear tolerably well-
informed persons tell you most gravely, that they were
then suffering firom a stroke of the evil-eye, or that
they were under the spell of a witch I Sybils are to be
found in every village and hamlet, who maintain them-
selves by selling their pretended knowledge in divina-
tion. These impostors are looked up to, caressed, and
feared ; and nothing of importance is xmdertaken,
without consulting them. They interpret dreams,
fabricate amulets, explain signs and omens, make
up love^potions, and perform a hundred other offices,
whose eflicacy is admitted by credulity.
The very name of the evil-eye, the Armanes of the
ancient Persians, terrifies the most courageous. In
consequence of their belief in this superstition, no one
thinks of congratulating another upon his prosperity^
for then the demon would be supposed to have the
MODERN GREECE. 283
power of blasting him, his wife, children, and property,
with some misfortune ; and should the strange, unao-
qudntcd with this popular delusion, in his desire to
appear amiable, compliment him on any acquisition, or
advantage, the beauty or talents of his duldreo, hSs
success in trade, &c., the influence of the evil-eye must
be removed by instantly crying out, ** Scorda 1 scorda 1"
(garlic), and spitting on the ground.
Scorda holds a high place in the estimation of the
Greeks, as an antidote against misfortune. You see it
hung up in every house, to keep out the entrance of
the evil one, and in every sailing-vessd as a preventive
against shipwreck; many of these superstitions have
become completely interwoven with the ceremonies of
the Oriental Church. For want of space, we must
confine ourselves to a detailed description of one, so
full of poetry, that it must have suggested to Pope
his pretty machinery in the " Rape of the Lock.**
When a child is born, an amulet is hung round its
neck, and it is marked on the forehead with the sedi-
ment taken from the bottom of a vessel, in which con-
secrated water has been lying for some time. A few
days afterwards, the little stranger is prepared for a
visit from certain fairies, who have been chosen by the
parents as patronesses of their chOd. This is done
by decorating a room with all tiie finery they can
bestow upon it, in order to condliate the expected
sprites. The baby must also be dressed with tiie
greatest care, and placed in the cradle in an elevated
position. When everything is ready, the windows and
— - • ^ I ■ imn* Mn\ iiiji
284 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
doors thrown open, the parents and fiiends standing
around in gala costume, the &ther, at the exact
moment marked by the sybil, with a loud voice, invokes
the invisible patronesses by name ; who are supposed to
enter, and take charge of their proUg^ through
fife.
When a reasonable time is allowed for the perform-
ance of the invisible ceremony, the chQd is carried to
the church for baptism, and not as with us merely
sprinkled with water, but entirely immersed, without
any regard to the time of the year, or the delicate age
of the chfld. Thus preserved from the effects of the
evil eye by the application of an amulet, rendered for-
tunate through life by having such powerful protectors
as the fairies, and regenerated from original sin by
bdng immersed in holy water, everything has been done
that parental love can effect, to insure the future happi-
ness and prosperity of the infant
Taken collectively, the Modem Greeks, like every
other nationality, are characterized by certain customs
and manners ; still it must be observed, that in a moun-
tainous coimtry like Greece, divided by the hand of
nature into distinct cantons, each within its natural
boundary, inhabited by tribes differing from the other in
extraction, dialect, and tradition, we must expect to find
considerable variety. This is not the case with their
rdigion, which we before observed, while travelling
among their co-religionists, the Slavonians in European
Turkey is regulated by a synod of bishops, from whose
deduon there is no appeal, and which extends through-
MODERN GREECE. 285
out the entire country, for although the Oriental Church
professes to acknowledge no other head than our Lord
Jesus Christ ; the sentence of its Synod of patriarchs*
whether on the banks of the Neva, or the Bosphorus,
in all matters relating to church affairs, is in its effects
equal to the thunder of the Vatican, and being now
supported by the Czar, as political pontiff of the Oriental
creed, these spiritual fathers wield a power wherever the
influence of Russia extends, not much inferior to that
of the Pope.
We must, however, admit that the Oriental Church,
with all its abuses, is far more tolerant than the Romaa
Catholic ; it has never been in any age what may be
termed a persecuting church, and would be less so thao
ever in our day, were it not for the political influence
exercised over it by Russia. Every religion is tolerated
in Greece, and protected by the laws of the land ; the
English have their own church at Athens, and have never
suffered the slightest insult from the Greek clergy or the
people. ,
•
The press is a powerful engine for correcting abuses,
and what a blessing to mankind there is at least one
country in civilized Europe, where a man may proclaim
his opinions on those great absorbing questions, politics,
and religion, without danger of being immured in
a dungeon. Our remarks respecting the state of reli-
gion in Greece and its abuses, but express the opinions
of every intcQectual man you meet with in the country,
who while he laments the errors of his church, and the
superstitions of the people, laments also that the intel-
m^f^^^^^^ffi^^^^^^*^^ :^-. ■ :^^.lu.^^.i^. ..r. ^ .^. ^. .
286 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
lectual minority are still too weak to grapple with an
evil, which would array against them a powerful
hierarchy, certain to be supported by the influence of the
Czar, as political pontiff, and the ignorant multitude.
But now that the intelligenoe of the age is advancing with
such rapid strides, a littie longer, and we shall see the
truth, the simple truth, again shed its light over a land,
that was one of the first to embrace it
This age will not much longer permit one man to
say : '' I am the fountdn of religion." Nor another in the
plenitude of his power to exclaim : ** I will oppose an
iron win to the propagation of any religious opinions^
but those allowed by the state." The intellectual world
is on the eve of a mighty revolution, and though the
outburst may be accompanied with the convulsion of
states, the march has commenced, and no human power
can arrest its progress.
When we reflect upon the ordeal of persecution
through which the Oriental Church has passed, now
suffering 6rom the violence of Pagan Rome, then from
hordes of barbarians, from nearly every country under
heaven, exposed for many centuries to the hostility of
the Latin Church on one side, and on the other, trodden
down by Mussulman fiinaticism and intolerance; can
we wonder at the numerous abuses and superstitions
that have crept into the Greek Church, when the poor
ignorant clergy, in many instances, had no other know-
ledge of theology, than what they acqiured from the
tradition of their fiithert.
If we turn from poor bemghted Greece to many of
MODERN ORBECS. 287
our own civilized countries of the West, with their
printing presses, seminaries, and universities, and all the
accessories which can possibly devate man to the
highest state of civilization, and see them still debased
by superstition, and practising many absur^ties quite as
great as those of the Greek Church, the comparison
does not tell favourably for the inteDigenoe of the
people. Assuming, therefore, the superiority of the
Oriental mind, we should not be surprised now that the
intellectual horizon is brightening in the benighted
countries of the East, if its inhabitants should again
become the teachers of mankind, and we have seen
enough of the Greeks, to fed assured that they are
destined at no distant day, when education shall have
become more generally diffused, to lead the way in re-
forming the abuses of the Oriental Church.
Every friend to the advancement of religious know-
ledge, and the cultivation of the mind of man, must
fed deeply indebted to the labours of Mr. and Mra.
Hin, American Protestant missionaries, established at
Athens ; and what an interesting subject for contem-
plation is it to behold an Anglo-Saxon — the native of a
newly-discovcrcd world — teaching the Greeks the same
pure faith which St Paul preached to their ancestors
more than eighteen hundred years ago.
Mr. Hill's system of education is conducted with
great prudence, in order to avoid offending the rdigious
prejudices of the Greeks ; the school v^^^^*^^ ^ diffuse
dcmentary education, introducing ^ ^^ *^^"^ time,
with great tact, the important objt5^^^^^^^^^«*«V^>»
t ■!
• s
*^8 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
^^reraon of the people from the superstitious mum- I
^iBeries of thdr church.
With this view the school opens with prayers, and
cods with a hymn, sung by all the scholars. On
Sundays they have the usual prayers, with the Creed
and the Ten Commsmdments ; after which the Gospel
tot the day is read aloud by one of the scholars, and an | ^
a|q>ropriate hymn, or two, sung during the service.
Thus th^ are brought under the influence of the pure ; 1
and moral principles of the Christian faith, without any
iqpparent attempt being made to interfere with their
reEgious prgudices.
The female department, under the direction of Mrs.
Hin, owing to the influence women ever exercise in > i
society, may be the means of becoming a powerful i 1
instrument in the dvilization of Greece. Men cannot I
remain ignorant, if women receive a moral and religious
education. In Mrs. Hill's school they are instructed, ]
not only in reading and writing, but in all the necessary
feminine accomplishments, to enable them to fulfil the
duties of their station in domestic life, founded upon the
prindples of morality and religion. The amiable Queen
of Greece, herself a member of the Reformed religion,
takes a great interest in the education of the female
scholars of the American missionaries, and we only
regret that these schools are not more numerous in
Greece. Such establishments would do more to elevate
the Greeks to a rank among the civilized countries of
Europe, than all that European diplomacy has yet been
able to effect
^4
MODERN GREECE. 289
If the potentates of Europe, interested in the welfare
of Greece \i'hen it was declared independent, had sent
schoolmasters instead of representatives, we should not
have found the country in its present demoralized state.
Representatives who appear to have no other object in
view than to wrangle with each other, and to sow
discord among all classes and shades of political opinion,
in their endeavours to gain a party favourable to the
interest of their respective courts. Add to this, the
jealousies and heart-burnings their fine horses, car-
riages, and servants must always excite in the mind
of the poor Greek official, who has not the means
of keeping pace with them in the race of fashion,
without resorting to bribery and corruption to fill an
empty exchequer. A consul, to fulfil the duties of
political agent as we see in the independent principality
of Servia, would have been much more suitable to a
petty State scarcely numbering a million, with a ruined
aristocracy, a pauperized clergy, and a population deci-
cimated and impoverished by a long revolutionary
war.
It might be presumed that Greece, governed by the
united wisdom of a German Prince and an army of
plenipotentiaries, chargd-d'affdres, consuls, and vice-
consuls, with their attach^ and secretaries from every
court in Europe, would have made rapid strides in
prosperity — quite the reverse. We see the country a
bankrupt, and its inhabitants more demoralised than
when they were under the rule of the Turk. While the
VOL. II. u
290 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
prindpaUty of Servia, as we before observed,* left to its
own resources and under the rule of its native Prince, has
continued to advance steadily in all that can add to the
dignity and well-being of a young country, and what few
Governments can boast of in the present day ; it has an
increasing revenue, together with several millions over-
plus in the National Bank at Belgrade.
Even in the more civilised countries of the West,
politics and religion too often exercise a paralyzing
influence on the pleasures of social intercourse; but
among this vivid, easily excited people, so well schooled
by their European teachers, you find a perfect tissue of
political intrigues and plots, weaving by the inmates of
every house you enter, from the King's palace down to
the dwelling of the lowest mirarquc. You hear no
other conversation but politics, and the same eternal
song, "Down with the constitution," and vice versa,
according to the opinion of the performers. Viewing
the unsettled state of Greece and the rancour of parties,
we must be of opinion that had the hero of the day,
General Kalergis, when he compeQed the King to grant
a constitution, at the same time given the foreign
diplomats their congd, he would have conferred an
enduring and substantial benefit upon his country.
During my stay at Athens, I happened to be on
intimate terms with M. Persiani, the highly respected
representative of Russia, making the house of one of his
^ See page 109, Vol. i. ^
MODERN GREECE. 291
attach^ my home, by whom I was frequently acoom-
panied, together with one or two Russians, traveUers
like myself, to visit the lions of the town and the neigh-
bourhood. Less th^n this, would have been sufficient
to excite the curiosity of the wonder-loving politicianB
of this little gossipping town. An inquiry was inune-
diatdy instituted, to solve the mystery which shrouded %
man who was constantly wandering from the palace of
the English minister to that of the Russian. It must
be admitted when the united intellect of a Greek and a
Frenchman is brought to bear upon a question, no
secret can escape their penetration, with the additional
advantage that if they fail in giving a true solution, a
most fruitful imagination supplies one. Consequently
the mysterious stranger was suddenly metamorphosed
into an agent of perfidious Albion, and iron-willed
Russia employed on some deep intrigue, having for its
object a division of European Turkey between the
cormorant of the West and the vulture of the North !
and this absolutely led to a violent ardde in the
" Journal des Ddbats" and the " Constitutionnd** at Paris,
under the head of a letter from their correspondent at
Athens 1 The French Revolution followed shortly after,
together with the fall and exile of Louis-Phillippe — the
grand abettor of the political movements in Greece.
These events completely broke up the school of intrigue
at Athens, whose students now having no better employ-
ment amuse themselves with games of chance. Even
poor King Otho, aware of the lowering clouds gathering
u 2
292 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
around him, found it more congenial to his health to
try a change of air and retired to Fatherland, leaving
his exa'Ilent and highly popular Queen, by her amiable
and condescending manners, to allay the popular dis-
content
294 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of Greeks and Armenian merchants, intermingled with
travelGng clerks from every manufacturing country in
Europe.
A sharp, quick-witted little Parisian, dressed in the
latest fashion, half filled our deck with hoxes of trinkets,
gewgaws and ornaments, intended to adorn the fidr
inmates of the harem and the saloons of the rich
Turks at Constanstinople, who have, it appears, a
perfect mania for gilded toys, looking-glasses, painted
porcelain, watches, snuff-boxes, &c., &c. Besides these,
our cargo consisted of bales of paper and Manchester
printed cottons, together with immense hampers filled
with window^lass, the manufacture of Austria, the
Turks having at length discovered that glass is better
adapted for keeping out cold and rain than paper 1
We shall not expatiate on the interesting objects
that momentarily met the view — monuments of a
great age : they have been already described by other
travellers ; it is enough to say, that we were floating
on the classic waters of immortal Greece, while every
thing around us, land and sea, sun and breeze, con-
tributed their bewitching influences to recall to our
memory the land of the hero and the poet, the patriot
and the philosopher. After a delightful voyage we
came within sight of Smyrna, the queen of the cities
of Anatolia — the pride of Ionia. The red flag with
the Crescent waving over the fortress, and a Turkish
frigate lying off the harbour, told us we wejre again
about to resign oursdves to the protection of the fol-
lowers of Mahomet ; these^ however, with a detachment
ASU MINOR. 295
of the tacticocs in their barracks, is the sole indicatioii
of Turkish rule, for the inhabitants of every rdigraus
denomination enjoy the utmost liberty of consdence.
There are mosques and churches, synagogues and
meeting-houses ; and even the women, except a few
Turkish, Armenian and Greek, of the old sdiool, are
seen wandering through the streets without envdoping
their pretty faces in the yashmak ; and, truth to say,
it would be crud if such lovely features, rosy lips, white
teeth, and dark, dazzling eyes, were hid by the envious
folds of muslin.
The fair dames of Smyrna, in race partly Greek,
parfly Asiatic, unite in the character of their beauty the
form, features and expression, which distinguish botfau
In the Greek islands, and the mountwi districts of
continental Greece, we frequently meet with the most
perfect specimens of feminine beauty ; but the expres-
sion is cold and inanimate, compared with that of theif
more graceful and voluptuous sisters of Asia Minor.
They are, however, represented to be the most inde-
fatigable coquettes ; and though the art of improving
the personal appearance may be weQ understood in
other parts of Greece, our fair Smymlots seem to have
reduced it to a science. In addition to a costume
admirably adapted to improve their natural charms,
the &ce is painted, the hidr coloured, the eyebrows
penciled, and a hundred other secrets of the toilet
practised with so much art as almost to defy detection,
so that the novice from Western Europe when he finds
himself for the first time surrounded by such a blaze
296 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of bright eyes, blooming cheeks, raven hidr and alabaster
nedcB, is lost in admiration and wonder.
Hie population of Smyrna, like that of every other town
in Turkey, profess three different religions, and observe
three different Sabbaths. Hie Christians Sunday, the
Jews Saturday, and the Mahometans FViday. Ttus is
1 very great inconvenience to the traveDer, who may
find it necessary to transact business with the inhabi-
tants, who are very strict in refhuning from secular
employment, however much they may choose to indulge
in festive pleasures.
Hie day on whidi we landed was Sunday, so that
wc had an opportunity of seeing the Chnstian popu-
lation, Franks, Greeks and Armenians, in their gala
costumes; and as they promenaded the quays, the
streets, and all the avenues leading to Mount Pagus,
I could not but admire the gay, animated scene, and
the display of the wealth and prosperity of the good
dtizens of Smyrna. There was scarcely a poor person
to be seen ; and what was still more Angular, very few
military. The town has certidnly benefitted largely by
the introduction of steam navigation ; and if it con-
tinues to advance in the same ratio that it has done
since my last visit in 1 836, it may become the Mar-
seines of the Levant. There are elegant hotels, lodging-
houses, reading-rooms, and a casino; a fine building
containing a ball and concert-room, with a suite of
apartments appropriated to card playing and billiards.
The best sodety in Smyrna is purely mercantile, for
the most part Fhink merdiants, who, although thqr
ASIA MINOR. 297
possess princely fortunes still ding to the counting-
house. They are exceedingly hospitable, and live
splendidly; and if they happen to have emblazoned
over their doors the arms of some foreign power, indi-
cating them to b3 Consul or Vice Consul, then they
have attained the summit of their ambition ; a position
in society which enables them to appear on public
occasions in uniform, and to be attended by armed
pandours, and also confers the office of judge in those
dvil and criminal cases which affect the rights of the
members of the nation they represent.
In fact, the post of Consul in Turkey is more
important than that of ambassador at any European
Court; on account of the unlimited power they exer-
cise independently of the Turkish laws, which I regret
to say is often abused, and among others, by some
who represent Great Britain ; such things would not
be borne by any Government but that of poor en-
feebled Turkey. A fruitful source of abuse is the
practice of Consuls, investing foreigners with the rights
of British subjects, and which ought to be discontinued,
as the privilege is too often desired for no other purpose
than to enable the possessor to carry on a system of
extortion and fraudulent commerce. For instance, a
Frank trader, no matter of what nation, commencing
business, in virtue of his newly acquired rights resorts
to some mal-practice in his trade, contrary to Turkish
law ; yet on being detected by the Turkish authorities,
they have not the power to punish a man, who is under
the protecti(m of a foreign Consul As we do not
298 TRAYBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
wish to be personal we will not mention the names of
these persons, nor the locality ; but such things do occur,
we can vouch for the truth of one or two instances
from personal knowledge, others have been confirmed to
me by respectable Turkish and Frank merchants.
The post of Vice-consul is likewise much abused.
In wandering through Turkey, we frequently see the
British arms emblazoned over the door of some Greek,
Italian, Jew or Armenian trader, indicating the residence
of the representative of Great Britain, in the person of
its Vice-consuL The pecuniary interests of these gen-
tlemen is certain to be mixed up with all the petty
political questions of the place ; and receiving little or
no salary from the Government, they are utterly indif-
ferent to our interests, and make their place entirely
subservient to their own importance and commercial
advantages. Nay, in one or two instances, we found
these gentlemen^ actively engaged in advandng the
interests of a Power, commercially and politically opposed
to England.
With respect to the office of Consul, there are two
distinct classes in Turkey — those who receive a fixed
salary, and are prohibited from engaging in trade, and
those who have only a small stipend, and are allowed to
follow some oommerdal pursuit to enable them to
support the dignity of their station. This latter system
might work well in the great commercial States of
Europe, with their courts of justice, civilized usages and
customs, sufficient in themselves to protect the rights
of British subjects, and where, consec^etvW:^^^^
ASIA MINOR. 299
sity does not exist for the Consul to exerdse judicial
power ; but here, where the Turkish tribunals have no
jurisdiction over the person of a foreign resident^ a
Consul takes a higher rank, as his office invests him
with judidal authority, and he becomes in reality the
guardian of his country's honour and the protector of
the rights of her citizens, from whose fiat there is no
[ appeal ; and as such, they should in all cases receive an
[ adequate salary to enable them to uphold the dignity of
j their station, without having recourse to commerdal
jt employments.
But to return to the office of Vice-consul : the whole
system, we repeat, is injurious to the character and
i respectability of Great Britain. As vre before observed,
4 with scarcely an exception, the place is filled by
i foreigners, adventurers, or natives of the country,
ignorant of our language, our habits and customs, and
for the most part indifferent to the interests of a country
' they know only by name. This calls loudly for reform.
. Surely, in our crowded commercial cities and towns,
J there are a sufficient number of intelligent, wcU educated
; young men, the sons of merchants and traders, with
the feelings of Englishmen — energetic and enterprizing
— who would willingly take upon themselves the duties
of Vice-consul ; more especially if they received a small
yearly stipend, to enable them to engage in commercial
; speculations, which would repay the country a thousand
I fold, by introducing our manufactures more extensively
j for, as we have already noticed, oiur commerce is losing
ground in Turkey, while that of other manufacturing
I
f
\ A
* - a
w
300 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Countries is advancing, entirely owing to the defects in
our consular system, and the supineness, want of tact
and ability, in so many of its members.
If we desire to increase it, let the number of our
'^^oe-consuls be muldpUed ; but they must be natives of
Great Britiun ; and if we are to dimuush the expense
of our foreign agents, it would be advisable to com- [ *
mence with our Ambassadors and political Consuls ^ ;
at the little European Courts, who in reaUly have i j
a.l_! *._ J_ » '
i
nothing to do. j
It may be said. What could an Englishman effect in I
i
i
i
i
i
a country where he is a stranger to its language, its laws
and its customs? To which we reply — ^The energy,
activity and enterprize of an Englishman, enables him
to surmount every obstade: besides, every succeeding
year would decrease these difficulties; while, at the
same time, it would serve as a school to educate them
for the more important duties of ConsuL Agiun,
bow often have we met, during our travek, newly
appointed Ambassadors and Consuls, with their train 1 1
of attaches and secretaries, not one of whom knew a | i
syllable of the language of the country to which they
were accredited; yet they contrive to transact the
affairs entrusted to them with the aid of an inter-
preter.
After this long digression on consular reform, we will
return to Smyrna. The following day, Monday, early
in the morning, we set out on our tour of inspection.
An was dianged ; the gay Smymiots, having retreated
to their hiiUng-places, the shop and lV\e \NCiacQix^V!^<isa
\
ASU MINOR. 301
place was now occupied in the streets by bustEng Frank
merchants, Greeks, Jews, Turks and Armenians^ so
easily distinguished from each other by their national
costume. After wandering through its narrow, ill-
paved streets, and visiting its bazaars, shops and cara-
vanserais, all interesting to the travdler, from their
novelty, and the display of European and A^atic manu-
factures, we ascended Mount P^igus, where we found,
lying at its base, -what may be termed the Turkish
town, stiD and motionless, perfectly in keqping with the
retired habits of that indolent people: streets, with
gardens, surrounded by high waDs ; houses dosdy shut
up by their mistrustful, inhospitable owners, as if they
were so many convents.
From the summit of Mount Pagus, amidst the ruins
of an old fortress, we obtained a fine view of the town,
the beautiful bay, and the surrounding country. There
was the river Mdas, the subject of Grecian song three
thousand years ago — winding its silent way to the sea
through a valley blooming with evergreens, meadovTS,
and orchards filled with the golden fruit of Asia : and if
tradition speaks true, the banks of the Melas was the
birthplace of the immortal Homer.
As to the ruins of temples, monuments, and other
reminiscences of days which are past ; there is hardly a
vestige remaining, war, siege, and the earthquake, have
upset, engulphcd and carried away everything. In vun
the antiquarian and the devotee have grubbed and
grubbed, in their endeavours to find some trace of its
andent church, mentioned in the revdations as bdng
\
302 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
one of the seven churches in Asia. Still not even the
rule of the Saracen, nor the Turk could utterly destroy
the aqueducts, that once supplied Smyrna with the
purest water ; there they remain an enduring monument
of the rule of the Romans, who if they were not equal
to the Greeks in the production of works of art, were
never surpassed by any other conquerors in the works
of utility they constructed
On descencfing, we passed through the quarter in-
habited by the children of Israel, the most miserable in
appearance of any other in Smyrna — ^the streets narrow
and dirty, and the houses with latticed and paper
windows, almost falling to pieces. \
In Turkey, where "might is right,** was long the »
established maxim of its rulers; we must never infer i
the weight of a man's purse from his outward appear- j
ance, nor that the inmates of a hut are poor. Taken
i
collectivdy, the Jews of Smyrna are a wealthy class ; j
and though comparatively secure under the Turkish |
Government of the present day, they have suffered too |
often frt)m the fitnatidsm and rapacity of former rulers, j
not to remember the danger a rich man incurs by living i
in a fine house. A remembrance which will never be j
eradicated fit>m the descendants of these tribes, who |
were first decimated, then plundered, and finally driven " {
firom Spain by its bigoted monarchs, Ferdinand and j
Isabella ; and who after being hunted fit)m country to
country, and enduring all the contumely and perse-
cution the religious fitnaticism of the age could inflict ;
found a protector in a Mahometan sovetex^.
ASU MINOR.
303
Here, as elsewhere^ in the TVirkish empire^ the
childreD of Israd Hve completely seduded from their
ndghboun of any other religious denomination, hold-
ing no intercourse vrith them, excq>t in mercantile
transactions. Still, however unsodal thi^ may appear,
thor manners are livdy, they are fond of dress and
society; and if you touch the nght chord none ara
more hospitable, and generous, or more deqily grateful,
for kmdness conferred.
I arrived at Smyrna at a time when the most
powerfid States in Eiurope were crumbling to pieces,
and even the credit of mighty England was not sufli-
cient to procure cash for a bill of exdiange ; in shorty
all confidence was lost in the money-market; and al-
though I was furnished with a letter of credit from my
bankers, Messrs. Coutt's, I could not obtain a farthing^
of specie frt)m any of the bankers, or my friends^ the
merchants to whom I carried letters of recommendation.
The moment I mentioned mon^, I was regarded as a
man infected with the plague. With one, the excuse
was, come to-morrow, with another, he must mention it
to his partner; the morrow was certain to find my
friends not at home. Even our Consul was shy of a
man, who had no other resources but patientiy to wait
for a remittance fit)m his banker.
There is no incident, however triflings without its
moral In my dflemma, I remembered my Jew fellow
traveller in the wilds of Albania, had given me his
address at Smyrna. Perhaps the reader has not for-
gotten him, nor the interest I took in his recovery
w
r
304 TRJIYELS IN EUROPEAN TURKBT.
when bit by a snake; and subsequently the acddent
which led to his bdng driven from our sodety. We
parted with expresisions of regret on both sides, and I
deternuned to seek his advice in my present emergency.
Knowing that the masquerading garb of poverty was
frequently assumed by these people when travelling, I
was prepared to find him ridi ; but not that he was
a diamond merchant, one of the most req)ectable and
wealthy men of his nation at Smyrna.
On mentioning my present dilemma to my Hebrew
fellow traveller, my letter of credit was instantly converted
into mahmouds of gold and silver, or bills payable at sight,
wherever I should find the counting-house of a Jew ; but
this service alone was insufficient to express his gratitude
and friendly disposition ; he insisted I should make his
house my home, during the remainder of my stay at
Smyrna. And though the exterior gave no sign of the
wealth of the owner, I was conducted to a room el^antly
furnished, with a sDk mattrass and vdvet cusUons, sur-
rounded by a mosquito net, fine as a spider's web. At
the same time, his excellent wife with her pretty
daughters and hand-maidens, busied themselves in
preparing a variety of deUcades for the table to gratify
him, whom their lord delighted to honour. Each day,
entertainment succeeded entertdnment^ to which he^
invited all his fiiends and rdatives ; and truly, it rarely
faQs to the lot of a Christian to behold such a blaze of
beauty, diamonds^ and precious stones, vessels of gold
and silver, and the richest silks and satins firom the
looms of Asia. These Spanish Jews CfcUkd Vgl ^>as^
^im^
A8U MmoR. 305
pcan Turkey, being justly considered to be the hand-
somest of aQ the tribes of Israd.
The attentions of my kind host did not end here ;
for on expressing a desire to visit the ruins of Epbcraa^
he procured me a fidthful guide and a pair of horses;
and that there should be no danger of fidling into the
clutches of brigands, it was arranged that I should
travel in company with a caravan of camds, under the
escort of a troop of dashing Amouts.
To avoid the great heat of the weather, we left
Sm}Tna at one o'clock in the morning, lighted on our
^-ay by the broad full moon, and myriads of stars gfis-
tcning in a firmament without a doud, or the slightest
haze or \'apour in the atmosphere to obscure the bril-
liancy of the light they shed around our footstqps.
Our caravan consisted of between twenty and thirty
camels, with a knowing-looking donkey, mardung at
their head as a sort of pilot, to sound the way befwe
them ; for the camel, notwithstanding his strength and
x-alue as a beast of burden, patient, laborious, and
capable of enduring great fatigue, is, in ctisposition, timid
as a hare. It was highly amu^ng to witness the lur of
importance our little guide assumed as he led the way ;
every now and then, like a good general, throwing a
glance behind him to see how his gigantic followers
kept their ranks. When we came to a marshy district^
he appeared fully aware of the importance of his office,
and with an air of great sdf-^complaoency struck the
ground repeatedly with his feet, to ascertain whether it
would bear with safety the huge wcignt of his companions^
?0U IL iL
306 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
ever brin^g the cavalcade to a fiill stop, tiU he saga-
ciously indicated to them, by a rapid movement of his
ears, that they might pass onward. Agun, when we
ascended a hill, he showed his wisdom by choo^ng the
broadest path, turmng to the left or the right, accord-
ing as he found a free passage among the brushwood
and rocks, for his followers and their bulky packs;
giving the dgnal to advance, by the same expressive
movement of his ears.
Our prudent leader was not one of those abortions of
the Asinine tribes that we see in WestemEurope ; but a
splendid q)edmen of his race. His form was taU and
graceful; limbs clean, well formed and muscular, as
those of a racer; and he carried his head as high and
proudly as a diarger.
On leaving Smyrna, we wound our way along the
banks of the Melas, while our Amouts kept moving on the
brow of the hills above us, appearing to be on the look-
out for the enemies of social order, who sometimes
assemble in sufficient force and daring to disperse the
guards, and levy their contributions on the caravan,
a rouleau of Mahmouds being more acceptable to those
gendemen of the road than a bale of merchandize. In
justice to the robbers of Asia Minor, we must, how-
ever record, that they are not of a sanguinaiy dispo-
sition, and rarely maltreat the traveQer, except when a
battle takes place between them and the pandours,
whidi is also a rare occurrence; the practiced eye of
each measuring to a nicety the strength and determi--
nation of his antagonist In these case^ d^^Vw^ ^icA
ASIA MINOR. 307
pandours gaBop away, leaving the caravan to its fate^ or
the robbers retreat to their mounbdns. When travdlers
are murdered, it is generally through the viDany of
a guide, who robs his master and then destroys him, in
order to escape detection. This danger is of course
avoided by travelling in company with a caravan.
We were not destined this time to be fiivoured widi
a visit from the bandits of Asia Minor; and if tfa^
had been hanging about our trail, the cheerful songs
of our pandours and caravan drivers must have told
them we were possessed of sufHdent pluck to give tfaem
a warm reception. Consequently, our tour was not
marked by any striking event, and the landscape, as we
advanced, offered but little variety in a country as
desolate as if it was removed a thousand miles from the
haunts of civilized man. Yet the soil was rich and
fertile, except when we got among the rocks, admirably
adapted to every species of culture. At one time our
pathway was carried along the brow of a yawning
abyss, much to the annoyance of our camels, who
dislike mountain travelling. This was afterwards ex-
changed for a romantic valley, where we found a grove
of magnificent plane-trees, offering in their expansive
foliage, a cooling retreat from the heat of a burning
sun, which poured down upon us a blaze of heat almost
insupportable.
Here we encamped for an hour or two, to prepare
the noonday meal, in the near vicinity of the black
tents of a tribe of Turcoman Tatars, with their wives
and children, flocks and herds. They lost no time in
X 2
308 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
pa^ng us a visit to barter their wild honqr, wax and
sldns of aniiualsy together with parcels of gold, silver and
prcdous stonesi collected in the rivulets of the moun-
tains, (at some of the luxuries of social life.
It was interesting to sec the raptures of these children
of the desert^ when after long haggling thqr had suc-
ceeded in exchanging th^ wares for the sparkling
trinket, gaudy shawl, and striped printed cottons of the
cunning merchant, and then felicitating themselves on
the advantageous bargains they had made, although the
exdiange was entirely in favour of the trader, who, as
might be expected, often realizes a little fortune in this
qiedes of commerce. Coifee, sugar, tobacco, powder,
salt, and various other articles, so indispensable to the
comforts of a nomade, were exchanged for articles worth
a thousand times their value.
Daring our travels in European Turk^, we have
firequently had occasion to refer to Turkish cemeteries^
often situated in the most desolate districts, far from
the abode of man. Some little distance from the place
of our bivouac, we found one on an unusually large
scale, with its thousands of turbaned head-stones,
shaded by the mournful cypress ; but like the others, it
was impossible to ascertain its date, ndther were our
feDow-traveDers acqusdnted with any tradition respecting
it. Had whole armies been smitten with pestOence in
these districts ? or had towns and cities once existed in
thrir immediate neighbourhood? are questions that
naturally suggest themselves to the mind of the tra-~
vdkr. In European Turkey, which mv; Va ^«gda
i
ASIA MINOB.
309
sense be termed the tomb of the race of Othman, for
there th^ had to contend against a more warlike and
determined people than their usual enemiefl^ the eocr-
^-atedsons of Asia Minor, we almost invariably found the
solitary cemetery placed in the near vidnity of one
belonging to the Christians, indicating that that par-
ticular district had been the theatre of a sanguineiy
battle between the armies of the opposing creeds.
As we approached Ai Soluk, the landscape became
highly interesting, recalling, as it does, the hifltory of
the Christian Church. There were two ranges of
roountmns, with the Kayster in the centre^ leading to
the sea ; but the convulsion of earthquakes has so com-
pletely changed the aspect of the country, that we
doubt even if the original inhabitants were called into
existence they would be able to recognize the land of
their birth ; for not only have mountains been dumged
into AnDeys, but the sea, that once bathed the walk of
Ephesus, has receded to a distance of several miles.
It was late in the evening when we arrived at Ai
Soluk, which can boast of a decent sort of ban with
a coffee-house, kept by an honest OsmanB, where the
traveller who is not over fastidious and has courage to
withstand the assault of a doud of mosquitoes and fleas^
may find accommodation for himself and his attendants.
With respect to myself^ bdng somewhat of an irritabk
temperament, I retreated with my guide and one or
two experienced traders to a shady chunp of plane and
sycamore trees, where we spread our mats, lighted a
310 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
fire, aDd began to examine the contents of our pro-
vender-bags.
On seeing ihis» Isaac, my Hebrew guide, laughing
slily, drew forth from a capacious leathern bag that
had been dangling from his saddle-bows, a number of
small packages, which proved to be an assemblage of
pies, cakes, dried fruits, and preserved meats, in all
their tempting forms, such as rardy Mis to the lot of a
himgry traveOer in the wilds of As\sl Minor. For this
welcome feast, I was indebted to the same kind fi^ends
who had already so hospitably entertained oie at
Smyrna, and whose provident care still followed me
on my route to Ephesus. In addition, there was a
most capacious flask of Cyprus wine, together with
coffee and other delicades. In short, there was nothing
omitted, not only to furnish a capital supper, but
suffident for the following day.
On awaking in the morning, the first object that met
my view was a wide waste of ruin, so extensive that I
could scarce refrain from thinking my comrades had
carried me during my slumbers to Ephesus. We were,
however, still in Ai Soluk, with its fine name (the City
of the Crescent), built by the Turks during their day
of glory, from the remains of Ephesus, which has now
in its turn become a shapdess mass of ruins, the home
of jadcals, wolves, scorpions and serpents, as if the
curse of the inspired writer clung to the very fragments
of a dty, doomed to destruction by heaven. Every-
where around we see crumbling forts, roofless domes
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ASIA MINOR. 311
of mosques, fallen minarets^ ruined baths and can-
vanserais, streets overgrown with ihisdes and briars;
and the few people who divide this home of desolation
with a population of half-wild dogs and storks» are
a mixed race of exiled Amouts, Bosnians and native
Greeks, gaining a precarious maintenance by attending
the caravan, and now and then stealing a padcage. Thqf
have exactly the appearance of men we should not Uka
to meet on the top of a mountdn, or in the depth of a
defile.
A morass, nearly half a mile in breadth, lies between
the ruins of the Turkish town and Ephesus, through
which the Kayster drags its sluggish pace in the midst
of reeds and bulrushes. This was once a sea, and bore
upon its bosom the tall-masted ship, filled with the
merchandize of the world. After making a detour of
nearly a league, we entered Ephesus, by what is pre-
sumed to be the gateway, into a sort of street, lined
with remnants of a colonnade, their broken fragments
lying about in every direction. In fact, the whole hill-
side is covered with a confused mass of mouldering
walls, ruins of theatres, aqueducts, fountains, temples,
baths, and every other indication of the magnificence
of the richest and most prosperous among the andent
dties of Ada.
To the Christian traveller, the ruins of Ephesus
possess a pecufiar interest, associated as they are with
the history of the Apostles ; for here, upon the wreck
of Pagan idolatry, was established one of the earliest
Christian Churdies of the Gentiles. At every instant
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the imagioatioQ wanders back to the days of St. Paul,
when he preached to the Ephesians, and the exdted
multitude^ in return, shouted, '' Great is Diana of the
Ephesiansl — the image which fell down' from Jupiter;
and whom all Asia and the world worshipped 1" In
wandering through the thisde-grown streets, we are
reminded of Demetrius, the silversmith, who in his fury,
kst the temple of the ** great goddess'' should be
deqpised, and his own handicraft in making images
oease^ radsed a tumult ; and ** having caught Caius and j -^
Aristarchus, men of Macedonia, Paul's companions in
travd, rushed into the theatre crying, * Great is Diana
oi the Ephesians !' and * Death to the Christians 1' "
An is gone! — the Church of the Christians has
followed the Temple of Diana ; because the inhabitants
of E^hesus, having, as recorded in the Revelations,
** left their first love," and relapsed into idolatry, and
would not repent, " the candlestick was removed," and
ibiey were swept away, with their city, by war, pestilence
and earthquakes!
FVom ancient writers, we learn that the Temple of
Diana, at Ephesus, was four hundred and twenty-five
feet in length, and two hundred and twenty in breadth ;
that it was adorned with a hundred and twenty-seven
columns, each the present of a king, and chiseUed from
m smgle block of the finest Parian marble, sixty feet
hif^ Th^ also tell us that the splendour of the interior,
mth its cosdy ornaments, its statues of gold, silver
mnd ivory, of the most exquisite workmanship, surpassed
•n that the imagination of man could ooncd^e* TVva
ASIA MINOR. 313
cannot be wondered at, when we remember that this
famous temple had taken two hundred and twenty
years in buHding. and that it contained the chjtf^
d^€suvres of the greatest artists in the world — Apelles,
PraxQetes, and others, very little inferior, and who wa^e
all actuated by the same spu-it, the same ambition to
secure immortality, by having their works enshrined for
ever in the Temple of Diana !
The temple of the "great goddess" must already
have fallen very low during the reign of the Emperor
Constantino ; for we find that Christian Prince appro*
priating its beautiful columns to support the dome of
St Sophia at Constantinople. From this time nothing
could withstand the united force of Imperial power, and
the £inaticism of the supporters of the new creed,
accelerated by the famous edict of the Emperor Theo-
dosius, for the demolition of the temples of the Pagans,
which swept away so many splendid edifices of andent
Greece. What the Romans left, the Goths, Saracens
and Turks totally destroyed, even to the bronze statues,
which were melted down, and coined into money ; and,
perhaps among them, Apclles's famous Jupiter, which
cost the citizens of Ephesus fifty talents of gold.
Notwithstanding that Ephesus suffered severely from
an earthquake during the reign of the Emperor
Tiberius, it remained a town of some importance for a
century or two after the introduction of Christianity.
However, from the moment that St Paul preached,
and the nations became aware of the grossness of
the dieat that bad been practised on their ere-
314 TUAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
dulity — the villany of the priests, the machinery of
the orade, the mysteries of the vestals, and all the other
idolatrous and immoral observances of the temple — the
prosperity of the town declined. Devotees no longer
came fiiom every part of the world to worship at the
•
shrine of ** the image that fell down from Jupiter V* and
to consult an orade that could respond to every ques-
tion, whether it related to the past, the present, or the
fiiture ! Thus has it been from the commencement of
time : imposture has its day ; but it carries in itself the
seeds of its own destruction. Such has been the fiite
of E^hesus and its temple — ** the great and the
glorious" — now shunned by man as the abode of pesti-
lence— the home of beasts of prey, every poisonous
reptile and noxious insect ; standing forth in its desola-
&n as a warning to the nations of the earth.
Wo returned to Smyrna, in company with another
caravan, on its way from Konia, an important town in
the interior of Caramania, and passed the night at a
small village beautifully situated on the river Melas ;
and although we could not be distant more than three
or four miles, our horses and camels, owing to the great
heat of the weather, were too much fatigued to proceed
without rest and refreshment. While my companions
employed themsdves in looking after their beasts of
burden, and in making preparations for a hot supper, I
irandered through the environs, to take a last survey of
sAe country of Homer. After crossing a hill, and I
trvsgg^ing through a forest of brushwood, I saw before
^ an extenmvc dell, green as a lawn, and waleted vn)S\
«
ASIA MINOR. 315
a rivulet of the clearest spring water. My astonishment
was not greater in stumbling upon this little Eden, dian
in seeing a gay encampment of well-dressed Turks^ of
the old school — the genuine race of Othman — with
their women, feasting and enjoying themsdves to their
hearts* content The sudden appearance of a FVank
armed to the teeth, emerging from a forest of ever-
greens, caused as great a commotion among the party
as if ihey had beheld a troop of brigands. Inter-
mingled with the screams of women, were heard the
violent expostulations of the men, who, having seized
their weapons, I found myself in the midst of a group
of furious Mahometans and their African slaves. A
satisfactory explanation on my part, led to a friendly
invitation on theirs ; when, after partaking of a hot
collation, and smoking together the peaceful tchibouque,
I was allowed to continue my rambles. They were, in
fact, a party of rich Turks from Smyrna, who had
sdected this romantic spot for the purpose of enjoying
the fresh lur of the hills.
How often have I had occasion to admire the scenery
of this beautiful country, now so sad and desolate,
though once so rich and populous ; here, mountmns of
slight elevation, there, undulating hills, interspersed
with tiny valleys and stretching plains, which only
require inhabitants, and a just and powerful executive,
to render it again an earthly paradise.
How many millions of human beings, who now toil
for a precarious subsistanoe in our crowded countries of
Western Europe, might here find abundance of all that
316 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
can add to the happiness of man, if the Turkish
Government could be induced to forego its exdusive-
nesSy and encourage immigration to a country where
the eagle and the vulture, the wolf and the jackal are
now the only tenants, and who, from long possession,
boldly assert their rights, scarcely deigning to retreat
from the path of the traveller ; where hissing serpents
seem to dispute your passage ; and where scorpions are
so numerous, that you have only to remove a stone to
find one beneath it Then the camelion, so rarely seen,
except in the most solitary districts, is here found at
evciy step, lying at your feet, basking in the sun, or
gambolling through the long grass, showing his irrita-
bility at bdng disturbed by changing colour from an
iron-grey to a yellow or a brown. The feathered song-
sters are not numerous in this part of Am Minor,
owing to the absence of forests, and the number of
birds of prqr. Their want, however, is in some measure
supplied by the beauty and great variety of the insects,
that keep up an incessant singing and chattering both
by day and night
Hred of my promenade, I returned to my com-
panions of the ban. Nearly the whole of the camd-
drivers and the traders were Turks, of the race of
Othman, easily distinguished from every other nationality
that inhabit Turkey, by a peculiar physiognomy, and a
gravity of manner. They were squatted in groups
around an ample copper basin, eating with thdr
fingers, a most savoury mess composed of rice and
hashed mutton, wdl seasoned with red pepper and I
ASIA MINOIU 317
garlic. In front of one of the groups was a story-
teller, recounting some wonderful history of bygone
days; near another, stood a wandering minstrd,
drawing forth most dismal notes from a species of
guitar, with which he accompanied a melancholy ditty,
sung in a cracked, squeaking voice. The subject of his
song was a lady fair, and her lover, a warrior bold, who
lost his life while fighting against the red-haired
Giaours.
When the party had finished their repast, the remains
were handed over to the poet and the minstrd as a
recompense for their performances, who it would appear
are as little the favourites of fortune here as in more
dvilizcd countries ; these having helped themselves most
amply, resigned the basin to several hungry-looking
urchins of the \nllagc, who had patiently waited, licking
their lips, and watching every mouthful with longing
eyes ; and when all had finished, and little remained
except the bones, the storks and the dogs fought for
possession of the treasure.
My companions, after taking their cofl*ee and shoulder-
ing the darling tchibouque, had little more to say. The
strolling stor}'-teller related a few more talcs — the
minstrel sung a few more songs ; at length, one by
one, the whole party unconsciously allowed the tchi-
bouque to fall from their hands, and regardless of
mosquitoes, fleas and scorpions, fell into a profound
sleep, scarcely changing their position ; some dropped
their heads on their breasts, others fell back on their
318 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
saddle-bags, and kept up till early dawn a continued
chorus of snoring that might be heard a mile off. In
the meantime I retreated to the shade of a magnifi-
cent plane-tree, where Ben Isaac had lighted a blazing
fire and around its dying embers slept soundly, undis-
turbed by any thing except the silvery note of the
bull-frog, and an occasional '' hoo ! hoo 1" of a solitary
owL
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THRACE. 319
CHAPTER XVII.
Voyage from Smyrna to the Dardanelles — Arrival at GalfipoH —
English Vice-consul — Kiraidji trayelling — Dreary aspect of
the country hetween Gallipoli and Keschan — The Maritxa—
Turkish recruits — Ipsala — Dangerous travelling — Notices of
the country and its inhabitants — Fertility and producUons of
Thrace — Agriculture — Implements of husbandry — Villages-
Troubles of a traveller — Greek scamp — Village law-suit — Ver-
dict of the village Solomon — Purchase of a horse — Chara^
teristic scenes — Arrival at Dimotika — Description of the town
and its Osmanli inhabitants — Tradition of the Bulgarian
bards.
At Smyrna we must bring our travds in A^ Minor
to a termination. In the first place, we have no space
for further details ; secondly, the little islands in the
Archipelago, the Dardanelles, the phuns of Troy, Con-
stantinople and its environs, arc too well known and
have been too often described, to require any remarks
of mine ; moreover, in a former work, I endeavoured
to delineate their beauties, and bring the reader in some
degree acquainted with them ; and though the inhabi-
tants may since that time have made a step or two in
320 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
advance, an inquiry into the changes and modifications
in their social state, would not, perhaps, he generally
interesting.
We win, therefore, put on our seven league hoots,
and jump at once from Smyrna to Gallipoli, an import-
ant town on the European side of the Dardanelles, and
continue our route through those interesting produces
known as European Turkey, and to which we have
already devoted the greater part of this work; with
the hope of drawing the attention of Western Europe
to countries rapidly advancing in political importance,
and it requires not the spirit of prophecy to predict
that ere a few years pass over, they are destined to
undergo a change which must materially influence
(whether for good or evil), the position of the Ottoman
Porte and the ndghhouring countries.
On arriving at Gallipoli we found that quiet town
in an usual hustle. The Pacha of the Dardanelles had
arrived with a numerous suite to \\sil the governor.
The tacticoes still lined the streets, and the authorities
were marching to the palace to pay their respects to
this high dignitary of the Porte ; the Mahometans and
the Moullahs, in their gala costume, were to he seen
in one direction; the Greeks, with their papas and
bishop, in his canonical robes, in another. These, inter-
mingled with Consuls and Vice-consuls in the uniform
of their respective countries, contributed to render the
scene at once animated and picturesque. One of the
smartest and best-looking among the number was the
English Vice-consul, in his gay cocked hat vitid coci*
- ■ Bill II ■! '■■ '"in I liaTlMll I I"
THRACB. 321
sular uniform, throwing oompletdy in the shade the
more dingy colour of dther the Rusdan, the Freodi
and the Austrian. I found our Vioe-consul to be a
Greek by birth, a substantial merchant of the town, and
although he does not receive any salary from the
Government, he welcomed me with all the warmth <^ a
countryman, and insisted I should exchange the nuseries
of the ban for a room at his own private readenoe.
This is not always the way in which our Consuls
and Vice-consuls act in Tuilc^. They too often
render no attention or civility whatever to an KngRsh
traveDcr, although, perhaps, he will give a gratuity to
the ser^'ant equal to half-a-year^s wages. This neglect
is the more unpardonable in a country where pro-
visions may be had for nearly nothing, and where the
bans are destitute of the necessaries of life. With
respect to myself, I never troubled one of them, unless
I was previously recommended; I, therefore, merdy
repeat the complaints of almost every English traveller
I met in the LevanL
With the assistance of my new friend, the Vice-
consul, I procured a kiraidji (or, as he is termed here, in
the dialect of the country, suridji), and a pair of horses,
and once more resumed my gipsy life, determined to
cross European Turkey from the sea to the Danube^
by a different route from that which I had taken on a
previous occasion. Owing to the difficulty of pro-
curing a pair of horses at this time in Gallipoli, I was
most unfortunate in the sdection of my kiraidji, who
proved to be a great scamp ; the only one, however, I
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322 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
met with during my excursions in these provinces, which
tdls much in favour of the character of the people.
On leaving Gallipoli, we had for our companion the
son of the Neapolitan Vice-consul, on his way to
purchase com at Keschan, distant about sixteen leagues ;
on leaving the town, we sidrted for some time the
low, marshy coast of the Gulf of Saros, occaaonally
rising to a hill that commanded a view of the sea of
Marmora. In whatever direction the eye wandered
there was the ssuo^e deserted, dreary prospect so peculiar
to Turkey; and as to cultivation, it was only to be
seen in the vicinity of some village or hamlet composed
of a few mud huts, and these were few and far between,
and always situated in the depth of some dell, as if
to dude observation; characteristic of a country, so
often overrun by the marauding hordes of insurgents,
and the equally to be dreaded troops of the Sultan.
It is true, in our day, European discipline has had the
effect of curbing the disorderly propensities of the
latter; but the evil is too recent, and the executi\'e
still too feeble, to encourage the industrious Rayah to
leave his hiding-place and cultivate the plain.
After two day's ride, we arrived late at night at
Keschan; a neat little town, composed of about a
hundred houses, grouped together at the base of a pic-
turesque ridge of hills; a great resort of the Frank
merchants settled in the various towns on the Darda-
ndles, who come here aftxur suffering fit>m intermittent
fever to recruit their health in the bracing air of
the hills. I expected to have found a comfortable
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THRACK. 323
night*s quarters at the house of an English merchant of
Smyrna, Mr. Snell ; but he had unluckUy departed a
few days prenous for Constantinople. I was relieved^
however, from the apprehension of passing the night al
fresco^ or within the smoky walls of a Turldsh ban,
by my fellow traveller inviting me to take up my
abode with lum, at the residence of one of his friends
settled here.
On leaving Keschan, the country improved in picta-
S rcsque beauty; the hills gradually swelling into mountains^
in part well wooded, with valleys and defiles crossing each
other, and vast plains stretching towards the gulf of
Enos ; but still wearing the same desolate aspect^ and
equally destitute of inhabitants. At Ipsala we caught
the first view of the Maritza, the ancient Hebrus ; a fine
navigable river, abounding in fish that are rardy dis-
turbed, cither by the sound of an oar or the sight of a
saiL
Here we met a strong guard of Turkish soldiers^
driving before them between eighty and a hundred
Albanian recruits, chmned together by the wrists ; the
poor fellows had been chased and captured in the
mountains, and were now on their way to Constanti-
nople, to be converted into tacticoes. It was evident,
from the appearance of recent wounds and bandaged
heads, they had not surrendered without a severe
struggle. While remaining in the han at Ipsala, I
smoked a tchibouque with the commander of the
escort, who gave me a deplorable account of Albania.
The insurrection of the rebel Guiliko had been put
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324 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
down, stin the Albanians were discontented widi flie
reforms of the Sultan, particularly the conscripdoBy
and only waited for a little breathing time, and as
enterprizing chief to break out again in revobtmiL
He dso informed me of the Slavoman Mussulmi
outbreak in Bosnia and Herzegowina, and cautioiied
me to be on my guard while travelling tfanN^
the interior of the country ; as the remnant of GuiOco's.
rebel army who had not taken advantage of flie
amnesty granted by the Sultan, were subsdsting bj
pillage, and might prove dangerous in some of flie
roountsun districts.
This was discouraging news to a poor traveller; and
as my informant could have no motive for deceiving
me, it was most probably too true. However, I had
made up my mind to proceed at any risk; I wit
strong, vigorous and watchful, a good shot, and a
capital actor, all most useful qualifications in a country
like Turkey. Then my character of Hakim, and die
number of pretty little gOded boxes I carried with mt,
filled with most innocent pills, would be certain to
procure me friends everywhere, even among die
brigands, *who like every other dass, are dvil to
those they find useful Beddes, I could g^ve a proof
of my abilities if the piEs should faul in curing eveiy
disorder; few quacks knew better how to widd die
lancet and dress a wound ; and if necessary, set an ann
or a Ic^. Again, the traveOer who is accompanied by a
native of the country, runs less risk of being mdested
than the rich man, attended by a numerous aoileu
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] THRACE. 325
<
Add to which, the inhabitants of these provinces,
unless inflamed by religious fanaticism, are by no means
of a sanguinary disposition ; and every step I made io
advance brought me nearer to the country of the
Sbvonians — of every other nationality in European
Turkey, the most moral, least hostile to a stranger,
and least inclined to make acquaintance with the con-
tents of the traveller's saddle-bags.
Nothing could be more heautiful than the park-Uce
scenery of this lovely country, between Ipsala and
Dimotika; there was the snow-dad summit of the
stupendous Despotodagh, in the distance, beneath
which lay a lesser chain, shdving from mountain to hiU
down to the Maritza. Romantic looking villages and
hamlets at every bend of the river seemed to multiply
as we advanced; while shepherds with their flocks
and herds imparted an Arcadian aspect to the land-
scape.
We passed through two or three villages in the
neighbourhood of an alum-mine, inhabited by the
! old race of Otbman, who had been settled here since
the conquest of Thrace, long before the taldng of
Constantinople. The Turks are not an agricultural
people ; they prefer the pastoral mode of life. Every-
thing about them, their houses and. fields, displayed
indolent carelessness, contrasting unfavourably with the
thriffy habits, and patient industry of the Bulgarian,
! whom we found already disputing possession of the
I soil with the Greek and the Turk.
r On the sloping sides of the hills the vine arrives to
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326 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
great perfection, and produces a red wine, much sought
after, and exported to the various towns on the Darda-
neUes. In the rich alluvial soil on the banks of the
Maritza, th^ raise crops of tobacco, cotton, rice,
maize, millet, aniseed, saffron, flax and hemp; in
short, every species of gnun, and no country or soil
can be better adapted for the growth of fruit trees.
The villages and hamlets, however romantic and
picturesque they may appear in the distance; present
the same miserable collection of straggling huts, we
before remarked in other parts of European Turkey,
separated from each other by a large space of ground,
without plan or arrangement
The Osmanli villager still clings to the flowing robe
and the turban ; and his partner, whether at home or
engaged at work in the fields, is always muffled to the
eyes : the Bulgarian is more European in his manners^
customs, and costume ; and his fair baba is not afraid
to show her smiling face to the stranger. The Greek,
half oriental in his dress, might be taken for a Turk ;
except that the law forbids him, as a Rayah, to wear
ydlow sUppers and the turban.
Among the women, the poorest villager, of whatever
nationality, displays bracelets on her arms, rings on her
fingers, and large dangling ear-rings, with a quantity of
gold and silver coins braided in the hur. These
trinkets are often very beautiful, and the coins in their
luur valuable from their rarity.
Taken altogether, the inhabitants of this part of
European Turkey are a harmless well-disposed people,
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THRACK. 3S7
willing to oblige the sbrango*, and live in harmony with
each other, both Turk and Rayah. Still you rar^
ever find them dwelling together in the same viDage or
hamlet Each race seeking their own node to buiU
their huts, plant and sow ; forming a sort of repubfie
among themsdves, governed by their petty diie& or
bachas, similar to those we described in other parts of
these pro\inccs. The Osmanli are better provided
with religious instruction than the Rayah ; thor clergy
are appointed and paid by the State, and yoa see here
and there a neat little mosque in their viDages, whidi
answers the double purpose of a school and a house of.
prayer. The Rayahs also have their papas, — for the'
most part extremely ignorant, not only of theology, bat
the mere rudiments of education, and you rardy or
ever see a church in any of their villages. Indeed, the
Turkish Government deserves to be severely censured.
for its neglect of the religious education of such a large
and industrious portion of its subjects as the Rayahs,
who we see still assembling to prayer, as if by stealth,
at some private house in the village.
The implements of husbandry in use among this
primitive people, are of the rudest description. The
plough, as well as the harrow, is formed from the
branches of a tree, without iron, twisted osiers serve
for a rope ; their cars are also made without iron, and
the wheels fashioned out of a solid block of wood, with
the same twisted osiers for traces. Every peasant is
his own carpenter, mason and wheelwright ; and every
woman is the weaver, taflor, mantua-maker, and sandal*
hrti ift m^rairiiijgtJtimm
328 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
maker of the household. The hatchet which the
peasant carries in lus belt is made to perform a world
of work, as well as the spindle, which is ever seen
twirling from the girdle of a woman.
How I regretted that I had not brought with me
from England, needles, and balls of cotton yam : I
should have fnade more friends with them everywhere,
than even with my boxes of pills. Any active young
pedlar, who was to come out here and learn a few
phrases of the Slavoman and Turkish, and then travel
through the country from town to town, and village
to village, with a donkey and panniers filled with
Birmingham and Sheffield wares, balls of cotton,
gaudy handkerchiefis, and striped cotton dresses,
would be certain to make a little fortune in a few
years. The miserable appearance of the inhabitants
and their huts, is no indication of poverty in Turkey ;
there is a great deal of metallic wealth in the country,
which would be certdn to leave its hiding-place, if the
articles we have specified should make their appearance.
Among the Slavonians in Servia and Bulgaria, there
is not the slightest danger to be apprehended to the
traveDer; as to Bosnia and Albania, owing to the
exdted state of the Mahometan part of the popula-
tion, perhaps it would not be advisable to explore these
countries at present
We must now return to my own affairs. Up to the
present time I had borne with my rascal of a Greek
Idraidji, Demetrius, without coming to an actual deda-
ratioD of hostiHties. I engaged him to take me to
lAllaflMaiM*
mtmmaatm
THRACE. 329
Adrianople, and on our arrival there, to pay him m
certain number of piastres for the use of his horses
and his services. In the numerous viUages and ham-
lets through which we passed, he frequently demanded
monqr. He was very poor, or he had some ooosiQ
in indifferent circumstances, to whom he wished to give
a trifle ; then his own expenses, and the ke^ of his
horses, must be paid. We had scarcely got over half
the distance, when on arriving at a village inhabited by
Bulgarians, he made the usual demand for an advance
of mon^ ; this led to an altercation, as I found that
I had already paid him nearly the full amount I had
agreed for. He now refused to proceed any further ;
positively denied that I had paid him any thing ; and
even had the daring and the impudence to summon me
before the Kodji-bacha of the village.
Our little cause was tried in the presence of the
whole of the villagers, who, with their Kodji-bacha,
were already predisposed against me, by the represen-
tations of the subtle Greek. With great volubility and
earnestness of manner, the clever scamp descanted on
the unjust manner in which I had behaved to lum.
Described me as one of those horrid Franks — a species
of living vampyre, who travelled through the country
poisoning the inhabitants by ginng them piDs; and,
as a climax to all my misdoings, I was denounced as a
Latin Heretic — a thousand times worse than a Maho*
metan, an infidel, who ate, drank, slept, passed over
dangerous rivers and crumbling bridges, and even heard
330 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the awfiil thunder, without making the sigh of the
cross ! The women screamed and crossed themselves 1
the men gnashed their teeth ! and the grave Kodji-hacha
frowned most menadngly 1
I was certainly placed in a most disagrecahle position.
The unlucky pills, which I expected would have been
passports to the good graces of every human being I
met with, seemed destined to bear witness against me,
as a poisoner of the lieges of his Majesty the Sultan,
and as such, I expected to be sent for trial to the
higher tribunal of the Turkish Agha in the nearest
town, Dimotika, and perhaps impaled for my offences,
as a warning to other miscreant Franks 1
My Greek having exhausted upon me every abusive
epithet his langiiage was capable of, it was now my
turn to be heard in my defence. I was but indifferently
acquunted with the patois of ancient Thrace — ^a me-
lange of Greek, Latin, Turkish, Slavonian, and I know
not how many more; consequently, I never could
thoroughly understand the people, nor they me, but
I spoke the Skvonian of the Servians and Bulgarians
tolerably well. Now, there is nothing wins the affec-
tions of the people of these provinces more, than to
hear a stranger speak their language. The astonished
Greek, who had not calculated upon the turn this might
give to the subject in dispute, looked most woe-begone ;
on the other hand, it was e\ident I had made an im-
pression upon the mind of my auditors unfiivourable
to my adversary, for there were no more frowning
^ w
'im
I I, I i<l ■ fcW I ■— <
m
. THRACE. 331
feces around me among the men ; and the women,
ever foremost in the manifestation of their feelings,
were the first to dedare in my favour.
An old traveller is generally a tolerable judge of
the character of the men he meets with ; from the first
moment I disliked my kiraidji. Acting upon this
impression, I requested the English Vice-Consul at
Gallipoli, to make an entry in my pocket-book of the
agreement, to which we made our Greek, who could
neither read nor write, afiix a cross in lieu of signature.
I adopted the same precaution whenever I advanced
him any money during the route. All this I stated to
the Kodji-bacha; to which my Greek retorted, by
saying, it was nothing but a clever trick of the heretic
Frank to cheat him !
We now waited the verdict of the village Solomon,
who, with true Oriental gravity, pondered over the case
for some time in deep silence. At length, he requested
Demetrius and myself to take pen, ink, and paper, and
each make a cross. Now, we all know how long a
time it requires, and how many wearisome efforts, before
the school-boy can acquire sufficient command of his
hand to make a straight stroke. The Kodji, who was
a scholar, relied on this proof to enable him to discover
which party had spoken the truth. As may be pre-
sumed, every attempt made by the Greek, whether
large or small, produced a cross, of crooked, jagged
strokes, exactly similar to those in the pocket-book.
This was decisive; and the sentence of the village
judge, to have the culprit sent to Dimotika, to receive
332 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Judgment from the governor, brought the pitiful wretch
to my feet imploring for mercy, amidst the execrations
of the peasants — an interesting manifestation of the
moral feeling of the people, proving that a traveller,
even in this remote comer of European Turkey, can
find a court of justice in a miserable-looking village^
and an upright judge in the person of a Bulgarian
peasant
After this insight into the character of my faithless
kiraidji, it was impossible to travel vnth him any
longer ; I, therefore, dcdded to purchase a horse, which
would render me more independent, and at the same
time permit me either to travd mth a caravan, or
engage a kiraidji, as suited my convenience.
This part of Thrace is still famous for its breed of
horses, particularly among the Osmanli. The announce-
ment of my intention, quickly spread from village to
village, and had the effect of attracting in the course of a
day or two, all the horses for sale in the surrounding
country. It was highly amusing to see how these usually
grave, turbaned sons of Othman, pressed themselves on
the skirts of a Giaour when piastres were in question,
and with what vehement gesticulation they expatiated
on the various good qualities of their respective horses ;
their genealogy — ^how they could ascend a mountain
as high as the moon, and descend again without
making a fiEilse step ; swim over the sea, and live upon
nothing!
I was on the point of concluding a purchase, when
a new dealer was seen sweeping round the base of a
TURACB. 333
hilly mounted on a horse which seemed to cut the air
like an arrow. Id a few minutes he was in the midst
of us, but the animal was, to judge from his appear-
ance, half famished; and the rider himself, his sun-
burnt, wrinkled features, nearly buried beneath an
immense turban, one of those wiry, meagre Osmanli,
all bone and sinew, so frequently met with in Ada
Minor. With the gravity of a philosopher, he sub-
mitted to the taunts and scoffs of his competitors.
One offered him half a dozen of piastres fop the skin
of his Rosinante ; another, about the same sum for
his carcase, to regale the dogs.
That the horse of the new dealer was fleet and
graceful in his motions, we had ample proof; and also
that there was no want of gentle blood in him. There
was the large, open nostril, the full, bright eye, slim,
sinewy make, slender limb, well-knit joint, arched neck,
beautiful head, flowing mane and tail ; declaring him to
be well adapted for travelling in a plain where flcetness
is a consideration, but in a mountainous country like
this, where the traveller's life depends upon the sure-
footedness of his horse, he must seek one accustomed
to mountain travelling. On my questioning his owner
on this point, as a proof that he was equally sure-footed
as fleet, he dashed into the depths of the Maritza
flowing at our feet, and after swimming across,
galloped up an almost perpendicular ravine full of
loose stones, down again, and across the river, without
even waiting to draw breath, or using spur or whip.
On witnessing this feat, npne could doubt his powers
334 TRAVKLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
for mountain travelling ; but he was a perfect skeleton,
only twdve bands higb, and as to age tbere was no
certain indication. However, after hearing the history
of the horse, and his genealogy for many generations,
together with that of the seDer, who had been toutonji
at one time to a wealthy Osmanli, Siud Pacha, but
bdng now pressed by poverty, was compelled to dispose
of hb darling, we agreed about the price, nine
hundred piastres, including a good Turkish saddle,
bridle and whip — somewhat high for a horse in these
pruvboes.
The struggle that now ensued, between the desire of
our Osmanli to obtain the long wished for rouleaus of
Mahmoudiehs and Jennilouks, on the one side, and his
deep-seated reluctance to part from his favourite on the
other, was highly characteristic of these people, and of
the precepts of their religious creed, as taught by
Mahomet, who says, when speaking of the horse : —
*'Thou shalt be to man a faithful companion — ^a
source of wealth and happiness, and for every gnun of
barley he gives thee, he shall secure to himself a higher
place in Paradise.*'
It was really affecting to witness the intelligence of
the animal and the caresses of the man, as he threw his
arms around the neck of his horse and kissed him with
tears in his eyes, telling him, at the same time, his
poverty, and how he could not afford to keep him.
Then, as if to console him, when he put the bridle and
the whip in my hand, he whispered in his ear :
" There is your master — the rich Inglez ! He will
TURACB. 335
give thee my jewel, my gazeUe, the dainty bit, the
roasted kibeb that thou lovcst, sugar to sweeten thy
tongue, raki to revive thee when thou art tired, fruits to
moisten thy thirst; and the Inglez, my darling, my
sweet, is not a red-haired Rouss, nor a Nemtschi-tcrzif
that would beat thee, but a real Inglez, that will dothe
thee, my jewel, in raiment as fine as that of the caliph
himself, and take thee, my sweet one, to his own
Inglczterra, where thou wilt be carcss(;d by the soft
hand, thy bright eye kissed by the ruby Up, have a
fine house to sleep in, and cver-grcen pastures where
thou canst sport and gambol in.'*
I know not when these endearments and r^rets on
parting would have terminated, had not the hanji came
to announce to us, that the sheep I had purchased in
the morning, to regale the Kodji-bacha and my friends
of the village, was already roasted; to which I also
invited our Mahometan friend to console him for the
loss of his horse. During our meal, I was first made
aware of the value of the animal I had purchased, w*ho,
among his other qualifications, could live upon whatever
food man partakes of, except cheese and fish, was as
affectionate and sagacious as a spaniel dog, and only
required a httle care and good feeding to become as
strong and courageous as a lion, while he possessed the
power of enduring any toil, however fatiguing.
At length, capitally mounted on a good Turkish
saddle, as easy as an arm-chair, and accompanied by a
stout Bulgarian peasant as a guide, we set out, at eariy
dawn, for Adrianople. After a pleasant ride along the
336 TRAVELS IN EUROPBAN TURKEY.
romantic banks of the Maritza, wluch we exchanged for
one of its affluents, the rapid Krisoldeni, we obtdned a
view of Dimotika, with its ruined castle, seated on the
summit of a hill, forming a very beautiful feature in the
landscape. Dimotika is well known in history as the
residence of the Emperor Cantacuzene, and at a later
date of Sultan Amurath. Here also Charles XII., the
imlucky King of Sweden, was imprisoned by the Turks.
Fate was unkind to the gallant Swedes, since, if their
r
brave monarch had possessed prudence in the same
d^^ree that he did courage and skill as a warrior, he
might, when we consider the barbarism of Russia at
that time, have bequeathed to his descendants the
empire of the North.
Dimotika is one of those old towns, that we
fiiequently find in the interior of European Turkey, &r
removed from any intercourse with the great world,
w*here nothing has been changed, and probably not
even a new house built for centuries. There are two
or three mosques tolerably weD kept, a covered bazaar,
and narrow streets — the hot-bed of infection, where you
may see the vulture disputing with hungry wolf-looking
dogs, the offals of the butcher. Two or three gurgling
fountains, erected by the conqueror of Dimotika, Sultan
Orchan, still send their limpid waters through the
unpaved streets, and still secure a sufficient supply to
the inhabitants, which may be termed so far a blessing,
but since water must find its level, the consequence has
been, that every inequality in the street is become a
stagnant pool, and even the efforts of an industrious
TIIRACB. 337
colony of frogs have not been suffident to prevent the
growth of a plentiful crop of green water-weed on the
surfiice.
Can we then wonder at the pale, emadated i^
pearance of the inhabitants, living in the midst of sudi
an atmosphere, which even the bradng air of the
mountams, and a firmament, mthout a doud, or die
slightest haze could not counteract f Neither can we
fed surprized, that fever and particularly cholera, whidi
loves to hover about stagnant pools, covered bazaars,
and badly ventilated houses and streets, should here
find its home — and be, at this very moment, slaying its
hundreds. In short, if we wanted an illustralion of the
fatalism, indolence, and ignorance of the shepherd race
of Othman, who have vegetated here from generation
to generation, since the days of Sultan Orchan, we have
only to come and see Dimotika. Yet the situation is
highly salubrious : there are no marshes in the vicinity,
and the town itsdf, grouped around it^ ruined fortress,
situated on a hill and shdving down to the dear, rapid,
running Krisoldeni, one of the affluents of the Maritza,
might be rendered at a slight expense one of the most
agreeable and healthy towns in European Turkey.
It was at Dimotika, that the Bulgarians, under their
chief Bulgar, after following the banks of the Maritza,
from its source in the Balkan, near Mount Rilo, first
came into contact with the dvilized tribes of Greece.
The astute Greek, too weak to rcpd the invaders^
purchased thdr fi^rbearance with gifts, converted them
to Christianiiy, and allowed them to settle in Thrace-^
VOL. h. z
338 TRaVbL& in EUROPEAN TURKEY.
m country still dear to the Bulgarian^ where ihdr
ancestors, the first wanderers from Asia, pitched thdr
tents, and from shepherds became cultivators of the
soil Mount RQo in the Balkan, and the banks of the
Maritza enjoys a lugh reputation in the traditions of the
Bulgarian bard — ^the one as the sacred asylum of their
patriots fit)m Turldsh oppression, and the other con*
nected as it is with the earliest epoch in the civilization
of thdr race.
TIlRilCE 339
CHAPTER XVIII.
Route to Adrianople — FUin of Thrace— Tumnli—Desciipdoa
of Adrianople — Great mosqae — Obaerratioiis upon ItUmbn
— Its tendencies — Insalubrity of Adrianople — Sketch of the
Great Fair at Usundji — Notices on the fairs of Europetti
Turkey— Arrival at Philippopoli — Its inhabitants — Commcm
— Armenian nationality — Their characteristics — ^The Paii1i>
nbts, a religious sect at Philippopoli.
On leaving the banks of the Maritza and its tribu-
taries, with their picturesque hillsy romantic valleys and
defiles, we enter the vast plain of the ancient Thrace,
something between an elevated steppe and a prairie,
extending from Philippopoli to the DardaneDes, the Sea
of Marmora and Constantinople; not &r short of
eighty leagues in length, and inhabited for the most
part by nomade tribes — ^Turks, Turkomans, Tatars
and Bulgarians.
In the midst of the land of these wandering shep-
herds, the populous city of Adrianople — the Turkish
£dr^n6— elevates itself in all its Oriental grandeur of
mosque, minaret and kiosL To relieve the sameness
^ z 2
340 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of the landscape, we have tumuli instead of hills, tents,
aod ozier huts for towns and cities. The tumuli, those
mysterious monuments of the earliest inhabitants of the
world, are frequently found rising to a considerable
height In one place we find them grouped together
like gigantic mole-hills, and in another swelling into a
fiUle mountain.
The Slavonians call them by the name of Ounka,
and the Osmanli Tep& If you ask the one what has
been their destination, he will teD you they are the
sepulchres of the Hunka (Huns) ; while the haughty
Osmanli tries to make you believe they were erected by
his ancestors as posts of observation during the conquest
of the country. They are not peculiar to this part of
Thrace; I found them equally numerous in Krim
Tatary, Central Asia, Russia and Poland; everywhere
the same, conical in shape, formed of earth, and scat-
tered about without any plan or order whatever.
In these vast prairies, the Osmanli is the dominant
race ; he here pursues his ori^nal occupation — a wan-
dering shepherd, surrounded by his flocks and herds,
with the bright blue heaven for his canopy, and the
fragrant herb for his bed. Next comes the mercurial
Greek, who eschews labour, aod flies to seek a mainte-
nance, by his superior intellect and shrewdness, in the
towns and cities on the sea-coast The Bulgarians,
who have already commenced disturbing this home of
the dead, by using the plough, are fast advancing
in point of numbers on the other two, and, thanks to
their healthful occupation and sobriety, their families
THRACE. 341
are more numerous and healthy. Another innovation
on the customs of the old Osmanli is also visible here ;
you may travel from Constantinople to Adrianople on
a char-a-banCf which perhaps in a little time may give
way to the rail
On approaching Adrianople, the plain becomes am-
tracted, and we agmn see the towering mountdn. We are
also reminded of the vicinity of a large and populous
town, by the number of gardens, orchards and cultivated
fidds that skirt the pathway of the caravan. The town
itself with its numerous mosques, minarets and painted
kiosks, now partly hid in the foliage of the trees, and
agadn developed to its full extent, fascinates the eye
of the traveller, and, as a picture, cannot be surpassed
by the romantic aspect of the public buildings, and the
beauty of the situation. There is a fine fertile pldn
with its meandering rivers in front, and moimtains
shd^g down to hills in the back ground.
Adrianople has the advantage of being situated on
three rivers — ^the Maritza, the Arda, and the Tondja.
From the neglected state of these streams, here and
there forming marshes, the town is infested with mos-
quitoes; this, with the filth of the streets, and the
number of mangy dogs roving about without home
or master, render it a disagreeable residence. It is
also much subject to typhus fever, and never free,
even during the winter, from intermittent fever.
The mosque built by Sultan Bajazet, when Adrianople
was the capital of the Ottoman Empire, is the finest
religions edifice ever constructed by the Turks. Euro-
342 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
pean genius has invented nothing in ardiitecture more
bold and original than this splendid buikBng, nor any-
tlung that produces so charming an effect as its el^ant
nunaret, piemng the sur to a height of more than
a hundred feet.
A few piastres, ^ven to the MuezsaUi gained me
adnusaon. How changed is the spirit of the age,
since the day when a Christian dog could not cross
the threshold of a mosque, and live! AH that is
reqiured of the traveDer now, is to leave his shoes
at the door and remain sflent, lest he should disturb
the Faithful at thdr prayers. The embellishments of
tlus mosque, which are ample and elegant, differ but
litiile firom those in Constantinople, and the whole
building was a pattern of cleanliness.
A few devout Osmanii stOl lingered, or lay about on
their knees and feces, deeply absorbed in prayer. That
perfect abandonment with which the Mahometan resigns
himself to the Almighty in his devotions, is one of the
sublimest spectades of religious feeling to be found
among the members of any creed whatever. He sees
nothing, he hears nothing; the whole worid, its joys
and cares, are forgotten in the intensity of his devotion.
There are no useless ceremomes to captivate the senses ;
no images to tempt the human imagination into the sin
c^ adoration ; no dogmas but the belief in one God,
and but two great duties imposed upon lum by his
creed — prayer, and charity to all manldnd.
We cannot wonder that these humaniang prindples,
intfodooed among mankind by its energetic founder.
TIIRACE. 343
Mahomet, as the hasis of his new creed, should have
succeeded in making such rapid progress among the
wandering tribes of Asia, promising as it did, not only
happiness in this world, but all that the boundless fimdcs
of man could invent of celestial joys in the next And
however false may have been the creed of Mahomet, its
earliest followers were pre-eminent for virtue, and con-
tinued to live in harmony with the professors of every
other religion, till the ambition of mighty chiefs, combined
with priestcraft, made it a political vl^cle for the enslave-
ment of mankind, when Islamism became a persecutii^
religion, enforcing its peculiar tenets by the swonL
Without reference to the truth or falsehood of the
creed of Mahomet, in the precepts of its religious
code and legislative enactments, we everywhere see the
absence of a master-mind, and in no respect more
striking than in the indolent resignation inculcated to
the decrees of heaven, and which teaches a man to
fold his arms, and in utter abandonment, perish by his
own voluntary inaction. The most energetic people that
ever existed could not withstand the paralyzing influence
of such a doctrine. This may be numbered among the
principal causes which have led to the decadence of
every Mahometan country, interwoven as it is into all
the habits, customs and manners of the people, and
forms we fear an almost insurmountable barrier against
any Mahometan community ever becoming highly civi«-
lized, great and powerful
We have a striking example of the baneful effects
the creed of Mahomet exercises over the character and
344' TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
tendencies of a nation, in the unchanged and unchanging
Osmanli — the destroyer of his own prosperity, who,
after having ruined and depopulated the fairest countries
in the world, and swept away the most glorious monu-
moits of ancient art, is likely to pass away from among
the nations, without leaving any record of his existence,
save the mosque and the minaret Still, however
indolent, apathetic and deficient he may have proved as
an enlightened l^islator, he possesses many valuable
qualities as a ruler; firm in purpose, and intrepid in
danger, he knows how to make himself obeyed, of which
we have a proof in these provinces, where we see a mere
handful of his race ruling with despotic power millions
of men, his superiors in inteUect, professing a different
creed, and of a different race. How often have we
seen the dashing Greek, the fiery Albanian and the
sturdy Slavonian, bending like a reed at the very nod
of the meanest Osmanli !
The inhabitants of Adrianople present to the traveOer
a complete menagerie of the various races in European
Turkey, each distinctly marked from the other in fea-
tures, costume and occupation. If we except Constan-
tinople, the Osmanli are more numerous here than in
any other town in these provinces, and said to amount
to nearly fifty thousand. Besides these, there are
Aroouts, Greeks, Armenians, Slavonians, Jews» Zinzars
Gipseys and half-wild Turcomans, each race occupying
their own district, numbering altogether, it is said, about
a hundred and twenty thousand.
The dirty streets, and ill-buflt houses, offer nothing
THRACE. 345
new to the traveller in Turkey, one town \mng a dupli-
cate of the other ; the only interest exdtcd, is by the
inhabitants — their various trades, their costume, the
eager throng in the bazaars, assailing your cars in as
many idioms and languages as if they had escaped from
the Tower of BabeL These, with the numbers of
housdess dogs, vultures and storks, rambling unmolested
through the streets, except when they quarrd among
themselves about the possession of a bone, the eternal
cooing of doves and pigeons, is most wearisome and
monotonous; even the swaDow is here an incessant
chatterer, and being, like the stork, a bird of good
omen, he is the favourite inmate of every house you
enter.
Having at length procured a kiraidji, and filled my
provender bags and leathern bottles with all the neces-
sary provisions to meet the wants of a long journey, I
was glad to escape from the mosquitoes and fever of
the Turkish Edren^. I had not even the advantage of
meeting with any Frank society ; the Consuls of the
various nations had set off to attend the fair of Usundji ;
and the English Consid, Mr. Wiltshire, had shut himself
up in his country seat, several leagues distant in the
mountains.
On leaving Adrianople for Philippopoli, we pass
between the lesser chain of mountains that descends
from the lofty Rhodopc on one side, and the Balkan on
the other ; occasionally widening into a plain, and again
contracting into a valley, in great part well-wooded, and
evidently very fertile.
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
At Moustapha Pacha, the andent Burdista — a small
if of a few hundred houses — we passed over a stone
with nineteen arches, thrown over the Maritza,
;% great rarity in this country, and apparently of great
^iBtiqmty. A few leagues further, I had an opportunity
\tt trying the metde of my Arabian, by swimming him
the rapid Usundji, which he executed in gallant
alyle; and this he repeated successively, whenever we
met that tortuous river on our way.
On emerging from a forest of evergreens, we entered
* tiie valley of the Usundji — or, as the Turks call it,
Usimschova — so famous for its great fair; here we
urere overtaken by a violent thunder storm; and al-
though the rain poured in torrents, we found encamped
fipom dghty to a hundred thousand people, some in
tents and booths, but by far the greater number lay
about in groups, rolled up in their sheep-skins and
mantlesy seemingly indiffSerent to the weather.
While galloping towards the village to seek some ban
or nook to shelter us from the pitiless storm, I was
hailed by some person from an extensive booth, who
called to me, in the Italian language, to stop. On
entering, I was greeted with a hearty welcome from the
Austrian Consul, a worthy Venetian. I had also the
pleasure of meeting several merdiants from Germany,
Italy and Switzeiland. Here I passed the night, and
part oi the next day, to enjoy the fun ; the scene was
amusing enough, as the people had journeyed hither from
neaily every part oi Turkey, for the purpose of dispodng |
of their wool, hides, raw cotton, leeches, and other ^^co* .
THRACE. 347
duoe of the country, and purdiasing in return the
manufactures of the West Hundreds oi canwisj
horses, mules, buffaloes and asses, belonging to the
traders and peasants, were to be seen graang on the
vast plain ; and every spedes of wheded carriage^ froin
the hexamoba of the Tatar, to the araba of the Turk
and the Slavonian, drawn up in drdes, inside of wUdi
the trader, in a small way, retailed his wares to the
eager multitude, using the grass instead of a counter.
Every approach to the fair was guarded by the Kavaa^
mounted, and on foot, for the purpose of maintaining
order, and perhaps to repd any attempt the Haiduc
might make from lus mountains. Extensive sheds had
been erected in the village by the Government, as
warehouses for the merchants, and every house was
converted into a han for the reception of strangers.
Previous to my arrival here, I was not aware of the
existence of this, the most important fair in these
provinces; and I doubt much that it is generally, if
at all, known, to our manufacturers in England.
Besides this great fair, which is held in the autumn,
and lasts for several weeks, there are several others in
various parts of European Turkey. The most con*
siderable are those at Jannlna, in Albania ; Strouga, on
the lake of Ocrida; Novi-bazar, in Upper Moesis;
Islivni, in Thrace; at Frelip and Nicopoli, in Mace-
donia; at Eski-Djouma, in Bulgaria; at Zeitoun and
Pharsalia, in Thessaly. These fairs are invariaUy hdd
after the harvest is finished— during the months of
348
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
August and September^ and last for several weeks,
attracting a vast concourse of people from every part of
the country. From some negligence on the part of the
Consuls of England and France, the existence of these
fmrs seems to be nearly unknown to the mercantile
-classes of the countries they represent — the trade being
entirely in the hands of German, Swiss and Italian
merchants.
In rambling through the &ir, I recognized among a
group of kiraidjis, the broad, honest face of Gcorgy, my
former guide through these provinces in 1847. On
finding I was on my way home, the worthy fellow
tossed his bales of wool and cotton to a comrade in
search of a job, swearing by Sveti Djordji (Saint
George) he was ready to accompany his gospodin to the
ends of the earth. This was, indeed, an unexpected
[deasure; for, however satisfied I might be with my
present guide, Georgy was too valuable a companion
not to have instantly induced me to secure his services.
We knew each other thoroughly — a great desideratum
in these half-wild countries, where the traveller malgri
hd^ is obliged to become the fiiend and companion of
hiskiraidji.
Our road, which had been like a bowling-green
smoe we left Adrianople, owing to the heavy rains of
the preceding mght falling on a deep alluvial sofl, had
become a complete mire, and extremely slippeiy, ren-
dered still worse by the great concourse of travellers
coming firom and going to the fair. Whenever we
THRACB. 349
met with a wheeled vehicle it was certain to be rtuck
fast in the mud ; which the united force of bufialoei
and men were unable to move. To save our poor
horses from fatigue, and ourselves from fiJEng, we
struck into the dark shades of a forest in seardi of
firmer ground. This route was tolerably good, till W8
got into a shaking marshy bog, which oUiged us to
dismount and lead our horses, by jumping from die
roots of one tree to another. In the midst of oar
trouble, we heard a rough voice, crying out : ^ Nereden
guelicrsinitz !** and on looking round perceived three
huge fellows in sheep-skin doaks, armed with pistob^
and long Amout guns of a most cut-throat appearance.
I expected it was all over with my saddle-baga» if the
adventure ended there, and at once prepared for the
fight My opponents, however, seeing I was a FVeok,
in a more respectful tone demanded to see my
" patscha porta ;" and thus at once relieved me from
any further apprehension, by showing me that they
were the Sultan's gens d'armes.
After helping us out of the marsh, they conducted
us to the Commandant of the karaoul, who alarmed
us with the intelligence, that he could not answer for
our safety, unless we took a mounted Kavas with us^
from station to station, till we came to Philippopofi.
This trick of imposing a guard upon travellers is veiy
common with these gentlemen for the purpose of
extorting money. At any other time, I should not
have complied with his advice; still it was not un-
likely that the fair and the concourse of so many
350 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
wealthy traders, might have tempted the brigands to
pay us a visit
Philippopoli, or as the natives call it, Philippi, built
on the summit and around the base of an isolated rock,
in the midst of a wide and fertfle valley, forms a very
.beautiful and picturesque olgect in the distance, to
which the Maritza that endrdes it, with a moat of
dear running water, adds all its charms.
The Acropolis, and the old town with its massive
walls, the beautifully sculptured marble column fornung
the gate of entrance, are peculiar^ interesting to the
traveOer from their great antiquity. Here is the red-
denoe of the Governor and the barradcs for the Nizam.
Beneath thb is the Tdiarchia, or commcrdal town,
with its bazaars and shops, for the display of mer-
diandize ; each particular spedes bdng confined to its
own proper quarter.
Among the forty thousand inhabitants of Philippi,
the Gredcs and Slavon-Greeks are the most numerous ;
consequently the Greek idiom is spoken in most of the
shops and bazaars of the town next ; to these come the
Spanish Jews; then the Armenian, who is found
everywhere in these provinces, and always engaged in
commerce.
P^y Jew, Turk, and Christian, in habits and
manners the Armenians, with an astonishing sup-
pleness of character adapt themsdves to the prejudices
of each, when their interests are to be benefited,
like the Jews, they are the remnant (st a powerful
peojde, and like them have heen led by commerce to
\
THRACB, 351
scatter themselves among the nations, and bear about
them an unnustakcable stamp of nationality in their
features, customs, and manners.
The Armenians embraced Christianity at a very
eaily period, to which faith they have dung through
all their wanderings and persecution, with a tenacity
whidi neither their love of gsdn or power could sub-
vert, holding aloof firom any connexion with the
oriental or the Latin church. Mount Ararat, their
<»iginal home remaimng up to the present day the
centre of their religious union. The doctrine of the
Armenian church differs from that of the orthodox, in
acknowledging one nature in Jesus Christ, and that the
Holy Spirit issues alone from God the Fathd*.
As traders, either in buying or selling, the Arme>
nians have not their equal ; commerce may be regarded
as reduced to a sdence among this people. We would
even recommend our smart shopmen of London to
come out here and take a lesson. The Turk wearies
you with his tadtumity. The Jew with his endeavours
to seD. The Greek with his flattery and dedre to
please. While the shrewd Armenian, with his calm,
patriarchal manners, appears to take but little interest
in the sale of his wares, places them before you in the
most inviting podtion, and with a dight sdute, laying
his hand most gracefully on his breast, names the
price. It is more than probable, after making the
round of the bazaar, and bargaining with others, you
come back to the. ^honest-looking Armenian, and pay
a higher price than the artide is really worth.
352 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
We have frequently been an eye-witness of this in
the bazaars of Constantinople! where strangers have
been induced to purchase from the mild, grave looking,
well-mannered Armenian, in preference to every othej,
and at an exorbitant price. Then his character of a
Christian is always certain to recommend him to his
brethren in fiuth from the West, under the impression
they would not be cheated.
The Armenian may be said to monopolize the trade
of money-lending in Turkey; consequently he stands
in high favour with the Ottoman Forte and every
Osmanli in power, to whom he is banker and agent ;
and none is more dreaded by the poor Rayah when he
is employed as the collector of rents, particularly if he
is permitted to farm them on paying an annual sum.
If we view the Armenian apart from commercial trans-
actions, in domestic life he is most amiable, the best
of fathers, the kindest of husbands : — a man who never
troubles himself with the affairs of his neighbour, goes
regulaily to church ; subscribes generously to the sup-
port of his clergy, and the poor of his own race ; never
interferes with politics, kind and condescending in his
manners; he passes through life with a countenance
as placid as if he never had been subject to the passions
and the cares which agitato the rest of mankind.
Philippi is the head-quarters of another religious
sect, the Paulinists, who say that they alone profess | i
the true doctrine as preached to their forefathers by
Saint Fkul. They are very numerous here, occupying
a large district of the town ; and said to be wealthy
THRACB* -w^_ ^ 353'
and industrious, moral in their habits, and wdl edu-
cated. I found members of tins r^gious sect in
Modem Greece ; and in neariy aU the large towns in
EiUDpcan Turkey, and as far as I could learn they tre
charitable and tolerant to aU who differ from them in
faith. Previous to the conquest of these provinces by
the Turks, they suffered for their religious opinions^
alike from the persecution of the Oriental and Latin
churches ; and if the Sultan from political motives would
allow them to be represented by a patriarch at Con*
stantinople, and at the same time encourage a sdiism
among the members of the Oriental church, which would
weaken the influence of the Czar of Russia among
his co-religionists in these provinces, it might tend to
consolidate his rule more tlian the counten«ance of the
Western powers; and we know what a potent lever
religion is among mankind, particularly when living in
a state of semi-barbarism. At present, as a Maho-
metan ruler he is completely lost among the millions of
Christians around hinu We may, however, propose
and recommend remedial measures; but we doubt if
the obstinate fatalism, the culpable indifference of the
Osmanli, can rouse sufficient energy to take a resolu-
tion which would create for him a sympathy among
this long persecuted sect, and who, if they were pro-
tected and fostered by the State, would be certain to
increase in numbers and political influence.
The ancient Greek cathedral, converted into a
mosque, b a very fine building. The portico that
we see surrounding it has been added by the Osi
von n. ▲▲
334 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
It still bears the form of a Greek cross, and were it
not for the tapering minaret, we might presume it was
still dedicated to the service of Christianity. The
Tiirios, however, are not nimierous here, and if we had
no other source of information, the few houses we
saw painted red was a sufficient indication, they alone
having the right by law to use that distinguishing colour
of a True Bdiever I
While maldng the tour of the environs with the
Greek Bishop, at whose house I was biUetted by the
Padia, my attention was attracted to one of those
stupendous tumuli which aboimd on the plain of
PhilippL The form not being conical, but sunk in
the centre^ seemed to indicate that it had at some
period bemi opened. On making inquiry of my compa-
nion, he confirmed my opinion ; adding, that a singular
tragic anecdote was connected with this tumulus.
It appears some years since a Greek of Constanti-
nople dreamed several successive nights, that if he were
to journey to Fhilippi, he would find a certain tumulus,
which he was to open when his labours would be
rewarded by the discovery of enormous wealth — gold,
diamonds and precious stones. The Greek, obedient to
his vision, set out in search of the tumulus, and having
met with one corresponding with his dream, no doubt
remained on his mind that it contained the treasure.
The difficulty of opening it, without exciting the curiosity
of the inhabitants and the attention of the authorities
now occurred to him, and he finally dedded to return to
Constantinople and communicate his wonderful vision to
THRACE. 355
the Na^ Agha, the prmcipal engineer of the Sultan,
who happened to bo a renegade Greek of his ao-
quaintance.
The compatriots having come to an arrangement in
what proportions to divide the treasure, with all the
cunning and rapacity of their race, lost no time in
setting out for the plain of Philippi, where the Nasir
Agha, in his character as chief of the imperial Engineers,
summoned every able-bodied man among the inha-
bitants of the neighbouring villages to the work of
excavation. After many days' severe labour, they came
to an edifice built of stone, with a door of entrance^
composed of the same material, and covered with
hieroglyphics. This was forced open ; when they found
a spacious chamber, containing a sarcophagus, imple-
ments of husbandry, household utensils, weapons, and
jars filled with gold and precious stones. But, alas !
according to the tradition, the moment that an attempt
was made to carry off the treasure, the heavens thun-
dered— the earth heaved — and the tumulus closed above^
burying in its womb the engineer and the dreamer,
together with nearly a hundred workmen. Since this
tragic incident, no attempt has been made to distiu-b
the repose of the dead.
As may be presumed, an event so tragic as this
forms the subject of many a superstitious legend among
the inhabitants of Ancient Thrace. The Bulgarians say
that the sacrilegious act has been punished by heaven,
ordaining the perpetrators to work in the subterranean
caverns of the earth till the Day of Judgment. On the
\ A A 2
356 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
other hand, the Osmanli story-teller informs us that the
Greeks, who like the rest of their race, were at once
rapacious and fsdthless, contrived to entomb the work-
men, in order to fancSiitale their escape with the booty
into a foreign land. Be this is as it may, the un-
fortunate catastrophe has left so deep an impression on
the minds of the people, that we doubt if the Sultan,
with all hb despotic authority, could induce a ^ngle
inhabitant to violate any one of these sacred repositaries
of the dead
THRACE. 35'
CHAPTER XIX.
position of Thrace and Macedonia — i
witli respect to their militaiy importance — Sketches of the
country and its inhabitants — Tatar >Bazardjik — ^Turkish mis-
rule— Characteristics of the Osmanli — Sodal habits of the
people — Superstitious — View of the Balkan — ^Ascent of the
Balkan — General aspect of the country — Inhabitants — In-
dustry—Torrents of the Balkan— The Great Isker— Diffi-
caltj of fording it — Sagacity and affection of the horse —
Anecdote of the horse.
Before we leave the Ancient Thrace and Macedonia,
we must say a few words with respect to the political
importance they derive from their geographical position.
The great kingdoms of Europe are not more distinctly
severed from each other, than every separate province of
European Turkey is defined under its ancient denomi-
nation. Each has its own mountain barrier, or sea
boundary, as if nature intended they should have
formed so many independent States. This is observable,
not only here, but in Ancient Greece. Hence the
number of petty kingdoms, which continued to floiuish
358 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
for SO many centuries, rivalling each other in industry,
the arts and sciences, and which, if they had only
formed a confederation of political interests, the natural
strength of their position was such, that they might
have defied the world in arms. It is owing to this
natural boundary which the hand of man can never
efface, that we find here so many distinct races,
speaking their own peculiar i£om or languge, and
differing firom each other in many of their customs and
manners.
The Andcnt Thrace may be considered as an im-
mense valley situated between two ridges of mountains,
the Despotodagh in Macedonia, and the lesser chain
of the Hoemus on the Black Sea and the Bosphorus,
and with the sea for a boundary firom the Gulf of
Enos to Constantinople, its weakest firontier; conse-
quently, Thrace has never figured in history as a
counby of any importance, and must have been from
an eariy epoch an appendage of some powerful neigh-
bour; probably commendng with the kings of Troy,
and then falling under the rule of the kings of Mace-
donia. At a later date we find it overrun by successive
hordes of barbarians, Scythians, Bulgarians and Ser-
vians, carrying their devastations to the walls of Con-
stantinople, and later still by the Russians; who,
haidng once passed the goiges of the Balkan, there
was ndther defile, gorge, mountain, nor hill of sufli-
cient importance to arrest their march to Constanti-
nople. As might be expected, the open, ill-defended
coast of Thrace, was the first part of Europe that
THRACE. 359
attracted the attention of the Turks, who having taken
its strongest town, Gallipoli, spread themselves over
the entire province, made Adrianople their capital,
eventually Constantinople, and conquered the whole
of European Turkey.
The configuration of countries broken into moun-
tains, valleys, defiles and gorges, with their natural and
impassable boundaries, exercises a great influence on
the character and energy of the inhabitants. We have
an example of this in the neighbouring province
of Macedonia, with its splendid mountain barrier,
and eveiywhere broken in the mterior by ridges
of lesser mountains. A country so well adapted to
form a hardy race of guerillas, accustomed to bear
up against the influences of every dimate, from the
burning sun of Asia to the freezing winds of the
north, and which produces to this (lay some of the
finest specimens of man in these provinces. lake
Tchemegora, and the mountain home of the Miriditi,
in Upper Albania, the Despotodagh in Macedonia, con-
dsts of a complete net work of defiles, ravines, deep
gorges, with their precipices, isolated rocks, dense forests
and plateaus, each commanding the other to the region
of snow, with its outworks extending to the frontiers
of Thrace, Thessaly, and the iEgean Sea.
It was the possession of this formidable ridge of
mountms that enabled the ancient Macedonians to
push their conquests into the neighbouring States ; and
while they remained invulnerable in their own moun-
tain fastness, they had the command of all the passes
360 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
leading to Greece on one side, and to Constantinople
and A»a, on the other. We must, therefore, be of
the opinion, that in any future wars or insurrection of
the Rayahs, the existence of Turkish rule in this part
of Ekiropean Turkey, depends on the occupation of
this important mountain district, which produced the
men that enslaved Ancient Greece, and astonished the
world by their bravery and conquests.
Sultan Orchan, with his gallant son, Soliman, the
conqueror of Thrace, aware of the advantages of so
formidable a position as the Despotodagh, which at
once secou^ to him possession of his new conquests,
and opened a wide field for extending his rule into the
neighbouring provinces, lost no time in driving out
the degenerate Greeks, and peopling the country with
his own race, in order to secure it from falling at any
future period into the power jof the Christian insur-
gents, which accounts for the number of Turkish
villages, we find scattered about in its valleys, ravines
and defiles. Notwithstanding this wise precaution of
the Osmanli conqueror, by a singular fatality, the
Mahometan settlers have continued to decrease, while
their neighbours, the Greek and Bulgarian Rayahs,
have multiplied ; and in the present day, several of the
districts of the Despotodagh is as much the home of
the free Palikari and the Haiduc as the mountains of
Tchemegora, sufliciently shewn during the insurrection
of the Rayahs of Macedonia in 1831.
Every step we made in advance from Philip[n, the
country increased in picturesque beauty, abounding in
THRACE. 361
forests and fertile valleys extending far into the ridge
of mountains, the Despotodagh and the Hcemus^ that
lined each side of the fine plain through which we were
now travelling ; there was, however, the same ahsenoe
of population, and no change in the miserable aspect
of the villages, except that they were siuroundcd by
vast sheds of out- houses, fenced round by palisadoes for
the reception of their flocks and herds, and to protect
them from the cold of winter and the prowling wolf.
At the village of Harmanli we forded the Maritza,
and here we received the disagreeable intelligenoe, that
a FVank traveller had been robbed a few days pre^ous,
and his Tatar, and two horses shot dead. As a pre-
caution agdnst a similar mishap, I engaged a relay of
the KaA'as from karaoul to karaoul, till we arrived at
Tatarbazardjik, presumed to be the ancient Bessapora,
a pretty little town containing several thousand in-
habitants.
Hussein, the^ Bey of Tatarbazardjik, a member of
one of the few families in European Turkey, who still
inherits the landed property of his ancestors, has large
estates in the neighbourhood of this town, seemingly
well cultivated, with several populous villages. The
best rice in European Turkey is grown on his estates.
The Bey, who is evidently a man of intelligence, had
a number of men at work preparing an extensive marsh
to be converted into rice grounds. A welcome sight
to the traveller in these provinces, who may travel from
sea to sea, from the Danube to Constantinople, without
beholding the slightest mark of improvement either in
362 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the aspect of the countryi or the industry of the in-
habitants.
About ten years ago, I traversed nearly the same
route from Constantinople to the Danube. The country
was without roads as it is now, and several of the
bridges that then existed have been carried away by
the flood, or fallen from decay, without either the
inhabitants, or the government, attempting to replace
them* Agdn, we have a noble river, the Maritza,
running through the centre of one of the most fertile
districts to be found in any country, and navigable for
steam vessels, but where a bark of any kind is a
novelty.
AH this seemed so strange to a denizen of ''go
a-head** England, where every man, fit)m the peasant
to the prince, is eagerly rushing forward in the march
of improvement It is not alone the absence of any
diange for the better that so forcibly arrests the atten-
tion of the traveller, as the deep-setdcd gloom that
characterizes country, town, village, people^ wherever
the Osmanli rules. Even music, so exhilirating to the
inhabitants of other lands, is here invariably like a
dirge ; whether the mandolin, or the gousla, is in the
hands of a Greek or Turk, a Slavonian or an Albanian,
his gamut comprises but two notes, high and low, and
from these he produces a cadence the most moumfrd
that can be conceived.
The motive that governs an Osmanli in all his ac-
tions, is the preservation of his digmty, and this is done
by maintaining an imperturbable gravity of demeanour :
TRRACS. 363
with this view, he neither sings nor dances, and speala
but litde; he smokes his tchibouque and drinks his
coffee in silence, and when he moves out to take a
promenade, if he has not his tchibouque, he b certain
to have a string of beads, similar to those of a devout
Romanbt, wUch he keeps moving up and down ¥nth
the utmost speed of his fingers. A stranger m^t
suppose he was saying his prayers : no such thio^ he
b only obeying an andent Mahometan law, which for-
bids a man, under penalty of death, to have hb hands
UDcmploycd when he walks abroad.*
The general monotonous aspect of the towns and
\4Ilages, in which the usual dreary silence ever reigns,
is most tiresome to the traveQcr; and if you do hear
the merry laugh, or bobtcrous shout, it b certain to
proceed from some wandering delhi (madman), whom
all classes respect and pity — the pet alike of Turk and
Rayah. If you meet with a pretty woman, no matter
of what creed or race, she is certain to be enveloped in
a veil, through which she exhibits a pair of dazzling
bright eyes, which might be dangerous in their effects
were it not for the chaussure, the shuffling gait, and
* This Uw originated in consequence of the nuinerous
sinatioDS that formerly took place in Turkey, when the •>M«fin
was accustomed to carry his weapon concealed in his hand be-
hind his back. The law has become obsolete, but the beads ara
still used, principally in the present day to denote the wealth of
the owner, some of these rosaries being composed of gems of
great Talae.
364 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
the want of grace in every movement of the fsdr in-
cognito.
If you enter a shop, there is no bargaining or dis-
puting about the price, offer a lower sum than that
demanded, the article is put away without a word of
comment; and if you do purchase, the money is re-
crived without even a bow of acknowledgement. The
same apathetic phlegm is exlubitcd by the artizan who
fflts cross-legged at his work, whether saddler, carpenter,
pipemaker, shoemaker, cook, tinker, or tailor. If you
strdl into the environs of a town, invited by the cool
retreat of a grove of trees ; you will find it to be the
home of the dead, shaded by the funeral cypress ; addbg
an increased melancholy to the dreariness around you.
Rayahs and Jews, Armenians, Zinzars and Gipsies
have all caught the solemn taciturn manners of their
lords; even the lively constitution of the mercurial
Greek, and the light-hearted shepherd of the mountain,
have not been able to withstand the infection. In short,
there is no fun, nor firolicsome mirth ; no fiddling nor
dandng to give zest to the morgue that besets the
path of the traveller in Turkey ; and were it not for
the lovdy country, the bradng air, the healthful exer-
dse of being day after day in the saddle, and the
impulse it gives to the spirits, I believe I should
have become inoculated with the indolent fatalism of a
True Believer ; take to the tchibouque, sit cross-l^ged,
and cry out as gravely as the best Mussulman among
them : " ADah biler ! Mashallah ! Inshallah 1** and leave
eveiy earthly thing to the keeping of Kismet !
THEACB. 365
Hitherto we have only dcsGnbed the Tink as he
pursues the even tenour of every day fife; still hk
character is composed of contrarieties; that quiet;
sedate-looking man, we see atting cross4egged on
his little carpet, smokbg his tdubouque from sunrise
to sunset, is susceptible of the strongest passions that
can agitate the breast of man. He is capable of the
most virtuous actions; he can perpetrate the darkest
crimes ; he is the trusdest friend, or the deadfiest foe;
the most generous, as the most avaridous of men ; and
however indolent he may appear to be, he b foil of
enterprize and activity when aroused by any exciting
cause. On the fidd of battle he dashes at hb enemy
regardless of life or danger ; and if he has once tasted
blood, the tiger is not more crud and ferodoua, nor
more difficult to satiate.
The precepts of the Koran, which impose upon m
True Believer the obUgation to pray five times a day,
and each time to confess his sins before God, and not
to rise from the earth until his spirit teDs Um he b
forgiven, exercise great influence on the character of a
Mahometan — produce and nurture in him a serious
turn of mind ; so that, like the Puritan of other coun-
tries, he has no rdbh for the light amusements enjoyed
by those who profess a rdigion that b neither so exacting
nor restrictive in its observances.
The example of so much devotion on the part of the
Turk, has not been lost upon the Rayah, who, with the
excq)tion of the educated dasses, never performs
any act of everyday fife, however trifling, witiumt
366 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
crossing himself. If to thb we add the superstitions of
both — the apprehension of evil constantly predominating
over every other feeling ; the number of unlucky days
and unlucky hours to be provided against ; the variety of
ill-omened birds and animals that may cross their path ;
the evil ^e; sorcerers and vampyres; with the evil
genii of the mountain, the rock, dell and river — ^we
cannot be surprised at the eternal crossings of the
Christian, nor the eternal handling of amulets in the
Mahometan, as a protection ag^nst such a host of
natural and supernatural enemies ; ^ nor that a gloomy
disposition of mind should characterize the inhabitants
of these countries.
On leaving Tatarbazardjik, and the plains of Thrace
— the home of the gloomy Turk — a ride of a few
leagues took us to Jenikoi, whence we obtained a
splendid view of the Balkan, appearing in the horizon
like a vast wall of mountains covered with forests,
shooting up here and there into an isolated peak, from
four to five thousand feet high. We commenced the
asc^it through a strong defile — ^tbe Kaprulou-Derbend
— Btin exhibiting the ruins of the castle and fortifica-
tions, erected by the Emperor Trajan for the defence of
this important pass, now reduced to a miserable
karaoul, garrisoned by a Turkish oflicer, and half a dozen
Amouta.
The ascent of the Balkan by this pass, an incUned
plane, b by no means difiicult ; ndther have the moun-
tains that wild and desolate aspect that might have
been expected. There was a succession of green pla^
BULGARIA. 367
tcaus, with their undulating sunny dopes, tiny ywlBej^
ravines and romantic dells, studded about with yiDiJ^ei^
and rather a numerous population, composed of shep-
herds and agriculturists, all Bulgarians, a fine healthy
looking race of mountaineers, who here, under the safe-
guard of their more daring compatriots, the Haidocs^ of
the higher range of mountains, cultivate thdr fields in
peace, and live, from father to son, in fiiQ enjoyment of
their religion and communal liberties.
It was the ancestors of these indefittigable enemies of
the Osmanli, instigated by their Greek priests, that rose
up and kQlcd Baldwin, Earl of Fland^^s, the conqueror
of Constantinople, and hb band of mailed warriors, in
the pass leading to Ichtiman, the Sparata of the
Ancients. Wo passed through that little town, con-
taining five hundred houses, with several pretty
mosques. It is now the seat of a Turkish Aien, who
has a guard of Amouts and a few hundred soldiers at
his command, for the defence of this important pass of
the Balkan !
On arriving at the Great Isker, to distinguish it fit>m
the lesser, we foimd it very much swollen, omng to the
heavy rains, which generally drench the traveller, day
nfi&r day, who may extend his excursions through the
Balkan ; this placed us in what a Yankee would call, a
n^ular fix. There was the river before us, roaring like
a torrent, every moment increasing in volume, and
carrying with it broken trees and rubbish, with the
velodty of a steam-boat We made a considerable
detour, still there was the same raging flood before us.
368 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY*
the same stem barrier, threatening to engulf us if we
made the attempt to cross it
Purposely to try the metde of my Arabian (who was
wonderfully improved by good feeding and care), I
urged him repeatedly to the task of swimming across ;
but each time he stood as firm as a rock on the bank,
casting a look up at me, with an expression full of
intelligence, as much as to say, there is danger. It was
impossible not to take warning from such a monitor ;
still, there cannot be a doubt, had I forced him with
whip and spur, he would have dashed into the boiling
surge, and strained every nerve to gsun the opposite
bank.
Were I to recount one tenth of the anecdotes which
came under my notice, during my previous and present
travek in Asia and in these provinces, relative to the
generous nature of the horse, his sagacity, intelligence
and affection towards man, they would appear fabulous
to the inhabitants of the West, where he is not always
weQ treated, and where the usages of dvilized life cannot
admit of his becoming, like the dog, the immediate
companion of man. There is not, consequendy, the
same facility to become acquainted with his inteDigenoe,
as is afforded to the nomade and half nomade, with
whom he may be said to live from hb birth. With
ihem there is no restraint ; they have no elegant house,
with its luxurious carpets, to prevent the favourite from
coming in doors to be fondled and caressed by his
finends, to lie down, roll and gambol with the chil-
dreiu
BULGARIA. 369
With respect to my Arabian, so long the oompanioii
of a kind master, and the playmate of his little &iiiily,
now that he fdt assured he had nothing to fear finom
having fallen into the hands of a stranger, eveiy dnj
developed in him some new trut of sagadty and a£foc»
tion. Let the reader imagine me bivouacking in the
mountains, under the shade of a group of noUe tiee%
with a stream of dear Mrater flowing at our feet» my
kiraidji and myself busily employed in turning a wooden
spit run through a quarter of a lamb, or a kid, over m
large fire, with my horse stretched by my side, his head
resting on my shoulder, eagerly watching the savomy
dish till it was cooked, and then, after eating a mouthful
or two, and taking a piece of sugar, and drinking a cup
of wine, scampering off to forage for himself, and again
coming, frisking to ray side, on hearing my whistle^
like a spaniel dog. #
Finding we could not attempt the passage of the
Great Isker, we returned to the \nllage of Jeni-han,
where we reroadned till early dawn, knowing that a few
hours' fair weather would be sufiicient to reduce the
volume of the mountain torrent. The event justified
our expectations, a strong breeze having sprung up
during the night, we easily found a place where we
could conveniently ford it, and continue our route to
Sophia, distant only a few leagues.
The little province of Sophia, hemmed in on every
side by a chain of hiUs, over which rises the snow-
crested summit of the stupendous RQo Flanina, may be
termed the real home and capital of the Bulgarian, for
VOL. II. B B
370 TRAVELS IN EUBOPSAN TUBXXT.
when nearly all was lost, here they made thdr last
stand against the Turks, and maintained tfaemsdves till
they were shut out from all oommunici&o with the
world and their fnends. However, in diose days,
notlung could withstand Osmanli enteqrae and per-
severing energy; they were not then die indolent,
d^;enerate, tclilbouque-smoking, ooffee-bibfaiiig race we
now find them; nor were their diieft tk effeminate
inmates of a harem, better fitted for weafiug a web of
intrigue on the vdvet cushion of a divan, tiian taking a
bold active part in the regeneration of a coanliy.
BULGARIA* 371
CHAPTER XX. '
Arrival at Sophia — lU ancient and modem history — Sketch of
the Bulgarian nationality — Public buildings at Sophia — ^Tha
cholera and the plague — Turkish fatalism and indolence-^
Journey through the mountains to Temova — Some account of
the capital of the ancient Krals of Bulgaria — Sketch of the
Bulgarian revolution of 1838-40.
The first view of Sophia, rising up in the centre of a
vast basin, with its domes and minarets picturing thdr
fair forms on the horizon ; over which we behold, in pic-
turesque grandeur the encircling chain of the Balkan, is
one of surprizing beauty. As we descend into the plain,
the eye loves to dwell on the number of villages shaded
with groves of fruit trees, and the rich fields of muze^
and every species of grain that lie dotted about in every
direction — the true ornament of a landscape, as they
tell of man's patient industry, and we hope his happy
home.
On approadung the capital of the mountain districts
Bulgaria, as if by enchantment we enter a dreary
^ ^ 'i
372 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
waste, which encircles the town, and to increase the
tristeness, pass through a funereal forest of turbanned
pillars, to remind the travdier how fleeting is the life of
man. But a cemetery harmomzes with the gloomy
character of an Osmanli, and is at all times, and in all
[daces, his favourite promenade, and no Christian dare
desecrate the soil by tilling the ground within mfles of
the ** city of his ancestors.** Out of compassion for the
bones of their fathers, we would recommend them to
endose these cities within high walls, and a more con-
tracted space, since the number of dogs one sees prowl-
ing about, creates uncomfortable apprehensions which
the stranger cannot easOy dismiss from his mind. .
The miserable wooden bridge thro¥m over the Isker,
and still more miserable wooden gate, with the dilajn-
dated fortifications, that a chOd might leap over, entirely
dispd, on a near approach, the illu^on of the traveller,
who may imagine from a more cBstant view that he is
approaching a ridi and flourishing dty. Still Sophia,
however decayed an appearance it may present to the
eyes of the traveller from the west, has by no means lost
its local importance, and the associations connected with
it must ever be interesting when we remember the
degree of commerdal prosperity it had attained long
before London, the mighty emporium of modem com-
merce, \mB even heard of. |;
Soplua, like every other andent town in this land of
mythology and tradition, daims the honour of having
been founded by a cdestial being; and as we do not pre-
tend to be so matter-of-fact aa to exd'a^^^ ^tcl tsi^
BULGARIiU 373
pages an that belongs to the ideal world, we fed that
were it only for the sake of our fair readers, we cannot
but relate the romantic tradition connected with the
foundation of Sophia.
It appears that the beauty of Serdic^, the daughter of
IDyria, which according to tradition was such as might
**nise a mortal to the skies, or call an angd down,**
having, like her mother, as we related in the preceding
pages, captivated one of those angelic youths of old,
who—
" BumiDg for maids of mortal mould,
Beinldered, left the glorious skies.
And lost thdr heaven fo woman^s eyes."
Having, doubtless, not without great difficulty, per-
suaded the &ir maiden to dope, the cdestid paramour
bore her on his pinions aloft into the r^ions of upper
air, where, after hovering some time butterfly-like in
search of a pretty retired spot wherein to pass dieir
honeymoon, the loving couple at length alighted in the
beautiful basin which Sophia now occupies. Here they
built their bower of love, which, however, truth compds
i • • • • f* '
j us to confess was in all probability about as picturesque
j and comfortable as a log hut, since a genius for archi-
I tecture never seems to have distinguished these im-
mortd founders of the great dties of the East, it
{ however formed the nudeus of similar structures, and as
small b^nnings often lead to great ends, Sophia gradu-
ally became the flourishing city it was in the time of the
great Macedonian, Alexander, when it was known as
/
r
'■■|-*i*pi«'T<TC7 I fMteUMiar-'
374 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Serdio^ Che lUyrian name for heart ; appropriate enough,
as the heart or capital of this brandi of the lUyrian
cmpiraL
When these provinces fell under the Romans, they
dioee ScnEo£ as their prindpal residence, fortified it, and
made it the centre of the Radii, whence roads branched
idt in erory direction through these provinces, so well
constructed that the Idraidji of the present day, when
overtaken by bad weather, if he should happQy discover
on^ blesses the hand that made it
On Che &n of the Romans, another Scythian horde
firom Asia, the followers of the chieftain Bulgar, spread
themadves over the Balkan and the rich plains around
it, oonquored the lUyrians, and from an affimty of lan-
guage and tradition, amalgamated into one people under
the name o( Bulgarians, and from barbarians became
a cmEaed, industrious, commerdal, and enterprising
people, and founded Temova, which became the capital
and readence of their krals. In process of time, these
valiant tribes having been converted to Christianity by
the Gredcs, extended their conquests across the Danube
to the Thdss in Hungary ; overrun Thrace, Macedonia,
Tbfssaly, Albania, and Greece, and reigned over these
vast ooonlries neariy four hundred years, driving before
them die Byzantine Greeks to take refuge within the
sbroi^ walls of Constantino|de.
From this time the Vdild Krals (great kings) of Bui-
garia, took the title of <<In Christo Dei fiddis lez et
Monardnun, Omnium, Bulgarorum et Grsecorum^''
divkfing the government of these provinces^ uqni k»KM^
BULGARU. 375
as European Turkey, with another Slavonian nce^ the
Servians. During their rule the Peloponnesus was
changed to that of the Morea, a Slavonian word, whidi
sigmfies a country lying on the sea ; the names of many
otlier places in Greece, Albama, and Macedonia wen
also changed, and they still retain thdr Shvoman sppd-
lations. At the commencement of the tenth centuiy,
the Bulgarians by their conquests having exdted tha
jealousy of the surrounding states, were attacked coo-
jointly by the Byzantine Greeks, the Servians^ and the
Hungarians, when they were driven to thdr first setde-
ments between Thrace, Macedonia, the Danube^ and the
Black Sea. From henceforth, the Sermns took the
place of the Bulgarians as the leading power in these
provinces, and continued to maintain thdr rule till the
Turkish conquest
Having now disposed of what Bulgaria was, we will
return to Sophia, a town which, notwithstanding all that
it suffered from a long siege, and the excesses of the
Turks on taking possession, arrests the attention of the
traveller, who sees in the beauty and magnificence of the
churches, and one or two other public bufldings, memo-
rials of the wealth, industry, and dvilization of the Bul-
garians.
The great mosque is the finest specimen now existing
of the architecture of the Bulgarians. Previous to the
Turkish conquest, it bore the name of San Sophia, and
like that at Constantinople, was dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. The Bulgarians were so proud of their
cathedral,^ and its magnificence so justly celebrated.
376 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
that the name of the town was changed from Serdio6
to Sophia.
The cara\'anserai or han, partly in ruins, was the most
magnificent buQding ever erected in these provinces, for
the recepUon of the travdler and his merchandize. It
was constructed entirely of cut stone, arched throughout,
and fire proof. In wandering through its vast stables,
warehouses, galleries, and endless private rooms, we have
abundant proof of the great commerce of Sophia, in the
Middle Ages, when this han alone, the only one that
escaped utter destruction, was sufiiciendy large to acco-
modate a thousand travellers. At the same time, the
torn and shattered state in which it had been left by
the cannon balls of the Turks, shews the protracted
resistance made by the inhabitants against thdr Maho-
metan invaders.
The remains of a Grecian temple tell us that the
city, founded by the fair Serdic^, was at one time
included in the Macedonian Empire, and the ruins of
a Roman amphitheatre, show that it formed part of that
great empire; but the only remnant of the Turkish
rule that is likely to go down to posterity, is the fragQe
minaret ! invariably added to the churches of the
Christians when they were converted to mosques.
With the exception of the objects we have mentioned,
Sophia is but the fiaus-simOe of every other old town in
these provinces; ill-paved narrow streets, badly-venti-
lated bazaars, wooden huts with their booth-like shops,
coffee-rooms, &c. As t<rtiirirmount of population of
this town, aqd indeed, every other in Turkey, when we
BULGARIA. 377
are guided by the number of houses, which the Turkish
authorities adopt as their scale by which to estimate
the inhabitants, the result must be unoertwu That
the population of the whole of these Turkish towns
annual^ decrease, there cannot be a doubt From the
statement of Dr. Roberti, in the service of the Ottoman
Porte, it appears that the town of Sophia, in 1 836, when
the plague broke out, was reduced from a population
of forty-five thousand to thirty-five thousand, since
then, from repeated attacks of cholera, and other
maladies, we find it now numbers less than twenty-
thousand. Dr. Muller, of Bittoglia, and Dr. Bulard, of
Constantinople, have recorded an equally fearful
loss of life in the other towns of European Turkey ;
andy be it remembered, the greater number of the
victims were Mahometans, possessing some little inde-
pendence, or holding an official situation ; the indolent
frequenters of the coffee-house, whose daily exennse
counts of a stroll through the confined air of a covered
bazaar, or a ramble to the *' city of their ancestors,^ the
very places where pestilence is certain to fix its residence ;
and if to this we add their fatalism, their bdief that
the term of the dimition of each man's existence is
recorded in the Book of Fate, and that every precau-
tion to arrest the fiat is unavailing ; we cannot wonder
at the awful loss of life that insucs, when a Mahometan
town happens to be visited by either of those scourges
of the human race, the plague or the cholera.
However much we may rail against the fatalism of
the Mahometans, we cannot but admire their resigna-
■ ■■■'■a— — M§fi
378 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
tioD, when contrasted with the selfish cowardice of the
Christians, in European Turkey, who, in their eagerness
to escape contagion, deserted their sick relatives, and
fled to the mountiuns, carrying with them the seeds of
d^ath to the most remote village. We witnessed re-
peated instances of this during our tour through these
provinces, in 1 836, when the plague burst forth with
unwonted virulence, and continued its ravages till _
1839. During our route from Constantinople to the v
Danube, we found several of the large towns encircled
by a military cordon, to prevent the egress or ingress
of any person, unless furnished with a pass from the
Governor. In some instances, the unhappy patient in
the height of deUrium, fled from the town, and even
escaped the shower of bullets levelled at him, to die on
the road-ride, when his energies were exhausted. As
the deaths multiplied, the desire of the inhabitants to
escape increased, till nothing could withstand the rush
of thousands ; who preferred dying by the bullets of the
tacticoes, to remaining any longer shut up witlun the
waEs of an infected to¥m, leaving the aged and the
helpless, the convalescent and the dying to provide for
themselves, the Mahometan alone firm in his reliance
on the decrees of fate, refused to quit the abode of
death.
In some districts, the Turkish authorities com-
manded the inhabitants to leave the towns, and encamp
on the nrighbouring heights; still, the destroyer was
among them. During this never-to-be-forgotten tour
in Asiatic and European Turkey, I found viVvoV^ W«rcia^
BULGARIA. 379
and . villages deserted, ^vhile every human bong I met,
wore on his countenance an indescribable expression of
terror.
In 1836, after a winter unusually mild, the plague
showed itself in Constantinople, and spread like the
blast of the simoon to Sm}Tna and Asia Minor, depopu-
lating in its progress, whole towns and villages : from
thence it advanced into Greece, Thrace, Macedonia,
and Upper Moesia, crossed the Balkan into Bulgaria
and Servia, leaving untouched the whole of Albania,
Herzegowina, and Bosnia. Whether the infection could
not ascend the high range of mountains that endrdes
these pro^nces, or that the traveUer from the diseased
districts, who might convey in his luggage, or about
his person, the seeds of the malady became purified
by the influence of a keen, bracing air, in crossing
these heights, we cannot say. Certain it is that they
remained free from the plague, during the whole of the
time it lingered in the adjoining provinces.
Since this eventful epoch in the history of the
plague in Turkey, quarantines have been established.
It is yet to be seen how far they may be found useful in
arresting the progress of a disease, which it appears,
from the observations of medical men, is periodical in its
visits to countries where nothing is done by man to re-
move the primary cause that produces it There is still
the abominable accumulation of filth in the towns and
cities, never free from disease; now assuming the
milder form of nervous fever — or intermittent — then
typhus and inflammatory ; and agjiin, according to atmo-
380 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
spheric influences and other causes, breaking out into
die plague or Asiatic cholera. The remedy suggests
itself — a systematic purification. This can only be
done by a total destruction of the covered bazaar,
opening a current of air through the streets, and above
all, the construction of sewers; this might easHy be
effected in a mountainous country like European Turkey,
where nearly all the towns and cities are situated on an
acclivity, near the sea, or with a rapid river flowing
near, or through them.
Again, the rivers in Turkey are too frequentiy the
fruitful source of disease, for, as we before observed,
they are always neglected, abound in marshes, where
pestilential vapours combine with the filth of the
towns, to form an atmosphere suflident to destroy the
most healthy population. In short, there are so many
changes to be effected, and tiiese so entirely new to an
indolent Osmanli, that the man who should propose
them would be regarded as a Delhi 1 Besides, there is
not a ^gle precept in the Koran to sanction all this
useless labour ! Truly, when Mahomet l^islated, his
vi^on as a prophet must have been obscured as to the
future grandeur of his foDowers ; for his whole code of
laws and religion, seem as if they were solely insti-
tuted for a people who were for ever to remain wander-
ing shepherds. He imposed upon them, as a religious
duty, copious personal ablutions, altogether unmindful
of the contingency that might devate them at some
future time to be the rulers over vast countries,
with thdr dviUzed inhabitants, dwdfing in towns and
BULGARIA. 381
dties, and requiring a different system " of adminis-
tration.
On leaving Sophia for Ternova, the ancient capital and
residence of the Krals of Bulgaria, we pass through the
centre of those mountain gorges that cut up the BalkaD
in eveiy direction. This route is only practicable for
the traveller who is accompanied by a guide, and
mounted on a sure-footed horse. Sometimes we ascend
an devated defile, which the eye penetrates with diffi-
culty. We then enter the glades of a dark forest^ and
emerge upon some plateau commanding a prospect so
extensive, that we might almost fancy we saw the
Euxine pictured on the horizon. At eveiy turn in the
rocks, the eye embraces a new landscape, and if not so
extmdve and varied as the last, there is m it some
feature of beauty and novelty — such as the leaping
cascade, dashing its spray, and forming rainbows
among the foliage of the dark pine — to draw forth aa
exclamation of delight
On descending from the heights, we perceive the old
town of the kings of Bulgaria, seated on the river
Jantra, surrounded by a forest of fruit trees, among
which the groves of linden and chesnut trees, add their
picturesque beauty, and impart to the landscape a
richness and a variety of colouriog which mingle well
with meadows and cultivated fields, the ruins of convents,
and the flocks of sheep and goats, that are seen browsing
on the sloping sides of the hills.
Of the once puissant Temova, nothing remains but
rELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
ts and miserable bazaar. The Turks,
ession, destroyed every vestige of the
together with the fine cathedral, and
>r the accommodation of the traveUer ;
luilding, or souvenir, that could remind a
s nationality ; but the most bitter war of
leems to have been directed against the
1, the golden lion, for we find it every-
whcther on bridge, porch, gate, or
I, the Sveta Horata of the Bulgarians, is
for here and in the adjoining mountains
planned, in 1 838, 9, and 40, one of the
s insurrections on record among this
the plan of the conspirators was com-
, and only waited for the appointed signal
^ open revolt, a solitary individual laid
>)efore the Pacha of Sophia, who commu-
I IXvan. Several of the most influential
fs were seized, put to the torture, and
; but these severe measures did not
lost simultaneous burst which took place
ilirace, and Macedonia. It was of no
(sulman war-dogs of Bosnia and Albania,
loose on their game; the Haiduc was
I his retreat in the mountains^ and the
again driven like a flock of sheep to
od left to toil in thdr fields, for to destroy
industry supported thdr masters would
BULGARIA.
383
be impolitic, and cause the rum of the elect, who prafer
fighting to work. If the reader deares to peruse a
detailed account of the terrible scenes that took phoe
during this insurrection, he will find an ampk aoooonk
in the «' Serbske Narodne Novine,** of 1840, puhfished
at Bdgrade.
384 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKBT.
CHAPTER XXI.
Political tUte of European Turkey — Administration — Caosei
that led to the Bulgarian insurrection of 1850 — Rapadty of
2Qa Pacha of Widdin — ^Turkish offidals and Greek bishops—
The Servians and Bulgarians contrasted — Alliance between
the Turkish Government and the dignities of the Oriental
Church — Effects of spiritual despotism — Discontent of the
Rayahs in European Turkey — How increased by the Hun-
garian and Polish refugees — Probable destiny of the rule of
the Turks in these provinces — Hints and observations.
Wb are not abettors of revolution, still we cannot
but ardently desire some change that might have the
effect of emancipating the fairest provinces of Europe
from a vicious administration, whose measures are too
often dictated by fanaticism, tyranny, and prejudice.
It is notorious that the vitality of the Osmanli race has
become extinct — their power a mere phantom. The
Sultan in his reforms means well, but he has not the
ability to do the good he dedres, and on every side
encounters obstacles. At one time we see him reduced
to lean for support on the Christians, and again cUn^ba^
BULGARIA. 386
to his enemies, the Don-reformiDg Mahometans, eadk
bang led on to destroy the other accordiog to the
exigency of the moment. This exhibiUon of neakncst
injuies his reputation, and his people regard him as ■
puppet, supported at home by the religious animouty of
his suttjccts, and abroad by the jealousy of foragn
powers, who deem it expedient to maintain the integri^
of the Ottoman empire, in order to presen-e Am baknce
of power, thus, from selfish motives, becoming accesioiy
to the ruin and depopulation of these fine countries.
Many examples might be adduced to show the
difficidty of ruling these provinces, where the great
bulk of the population is Christian, and the governing
power Mahometan. The one, accustomed for centuries
to the most debasing slaver)', is still the same grovelling
slave his lathers were before him. The other, the
haugh^ ofhdal, full of his own importance as a Mussul-
man in authority, with a host of armed Kavaas ready
to execute his slightest nish ; throws the instructions he
has recdved from the Divan to gmde him in his admi-
nistratioo to the winds, and pursues the old system of
extortion, his only thought bdng how, or by what
means, he can enrich himself mthout resorting to actual
violence. He remembers the large sum he paid, a* has
to pay, to some influential person, through whose interest
he was installed in office, this must be r^mbursed; then
a large sum must be laid by to maintain him should he
lose his place, and secure a provi»on for old age ; beside*
he must uphold his station by liring in a style commen-
-surate with the dignity he fills. This cannot be done
TOL. U. ^ ^
386 TRAVELS IN BUROPBAN TURKBT.
without having recourse to unjustifiable methods to pro-
cure money. The taxes are &rmed out, every office is
sold to the highest bidder, even the administration of
the law ; nay, the MouIIah and the Greek Bishop, who
are appointed by Government to superintend his actions,
must eadi have a separate douceur, otherwise they may
inform against him.
Thus, the poor Rayah whose patient industry supports
Sultan, Church and State, is robbed of his last para for
the benefit of the Pacha, the Bishop, and a host of
emplay^eSt down to the lowest Tchiboukji. Should
fair means £eu1 to extract fix)m him the wages of his
labour, recourse is had to violence, till nothing remaini^
to him, save the miserable hut in which he Hves with
his wife and children — these, if possessmg personal
attractions, are not always safe fi*om wretches who carry
a brace of loaded pistols to enforce submission.
Human endurance can bear no more. The abject
Rayah asserts the rights of man, and flies to arms, but
alas 1 lus weapons are nothing better than his implements
of husbandry, which he can oppose with little effect '
agiunst powder and ball The tacticoes and Amouts
are called out, cannon is employed to put down the
revolt, and while the poor Rayah dies courageously in the
fidd, his wife and chfldren are fi^equently consumed
among the embers of their cabin, the victims of Turkish
nusrule. Such was the state of a large district in
Bulgaria, the extenuve pachalik of Widdin, when I
arrived at Sophia in 1850.
The inhabitants of Western Europe have probaUy
heard of the insurrcctioii of Bvlgam^Yxoit ^i!^ evosv^^X.
BULQARI4. 387
entertain the remotest idea of the hcMTors that aocom--
pamed it ; and although, thank Heaven ! I was spared
the misery of mtnesang the contest, the smoking
viUages, that I saw during my route to the Danube,
the blackened bones of the inmates^ the number of dead
bodies that still lay about in defiles and gorges, preyed
upon by wolves, and half-wild dogs, told a finrful tale
of bitter animosity, and how desperate had been the
struggle. When it was too late, the Turkish Govern-
ment ordered an inquiry to be made as to the cause ;
but we presume as Zia Pacha, the author of all this
misery and bloodshed, had not politically offended, and
was knowQ to be favourable to the laews of the Sultan,
and an enemy of the anti^reform party, no severer
punishmeDt was awarded than a reprimand, and to be
deprived of his pachalik.
The Bulgarians have neither the bold determination
of their neighbours, the Servians, nor the spirit oi
enterprize, combination and fiery valour of the Greeks ;
they more resemble the moujik (serf) of Russia— a
machine to be guided at the will of a dever engineer.
In Upper Moesia, and on the banks of the Morava^
where th^ amalgamate with the Servians, and their own
Haiducs of the mountdns ; and in Thrace and Mace-
donia where they come in contact with their neighbours,
the Greeks, we find them a totally different people ; but
here in Old Bulgaria, where th^ number three millions,
they may be compared to a carcass to be preyed upon
by eighty thousand Mussulman vultures^ that being
the number of Turks residing in the towns on the
^ c ^
38S
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
Danube and the Black Sea. Even to this day, not-
withstanding the edict of the Sultan, granting them
social rights, and abrogating the ancient laws, which
compelled the Rayah of every rank, except the dcrgy,
to humble himself in presence of the elect of Mahomet,
a Bulgarian, when he enters the hall of audience of a
Pacha, or a simple Aien, is seen crawling on his knees,
and bending his neck in abject submission to the man
in power. While travelling, he dismounts from his
horse tiU the great man passes; and.in all the small
towns, and villages, the whole population bend like a
reed at the nod of the meanest Turk.
We may, therefore, conclude that the Panslavist may
preach patriotism and union, the Haiduc rave about a
fi^ independent Bulgaria, for generations yet to come ;
unless the impulse comes from another Slavonian race,
the bold, determined Servian, the only nationality in
European Turkey possessed of the qualities necessary
to lead the movement, should the Bulgarians make the
attempt to recover their independence.
It is true, centuries of slavery, enforced by a brutal,
fanatic Osmanli, might be deemed sufficient to anni-
hilate any latent spark of mOitary ardour, and engender
a feelbg of contented serfdom. The Servians, however,
suffered equally with their brethren of Bulgaria, still the
martial energies of the people triumphed over the
Turics, at a time when they were far more powerful,
and united, than we find them in the present day. We
could, it is true, record isolated attempts of the Bul-
garians of oertun districts to emancipate themsdvea
BULQARIA. 389
from Oscnanii rule, equal to any of the brilfiant expkNts
of the SenianSy yet they have never succeeded, owing
to their own stupid ignorance and superstition. We
have seen them, when victory was within their grasps
when their oppressors, the Turks, were starving in their
besieged cities and strong places, at the approadi oi
some meek and lowly Bishop mounted on bis mule,
who, with crozicr and uplifted hands, was prepared to
pronounce upon them the dreadful sentence of excom-
munication, disband at his command, and mth fear and
trembling return to their huts.
Incompetent as the administration of the Turks, in
other respects, must appear to the traveller from
Western Europe, they have exhibited of late years a
Machiavelian dexterity in their system of governing their
Christian subjects, which is becoming every year more
perfect in its organization. Conscious that they can.
no longer domineer over a great and numerous people,
professing a different creed, the Divan has received
into special favour the higher clergy, who are without
exception of Greek origin, and notorious for their
venality. Educated at Mount Athos, or some other of
the numerous monasteries of Greece, these divines are
strangers to the language, customs, and manners of
the Slavonians; their only qualification being their
ability to pay the large sum required by the Divan for
their preferment !
These ecclesiastics consequently hold an important
stake in the country, which they would be liable to lose
should the Slavonians succeed in carrying out their
390 TRAVELS IN BU&OPEAN TURKBT.
independence, we therefore always find them ranged on
the side of the ruling power ; and like the Mahometan
officials, they leave no means mitiied to render thor
bishoprics a profitable investment ; hence they dispose
of aU the inferior benefices of the Church down to that
of the Fkpa of a village, fix the sums to be paid by the
people for the services of the Church, which comprise a
hundred ceremonies, unknown even to the Latin Churdu
In these things. Oriental invention has left fiur behind
the expedients resorted to for enriching the Church by
the inhabitants of the West, and which the eariy fathers
of the Latin Church but imperfectiy copied.
In order to extend more fully the power and
influence of the Church over the douded inteDect of
the Bulgarian Rayah — the most willing of every other
nationality in these provinces to submit to spiritual
despotism, which hangs its chains around the body and
soul of its victims — the IMvan has recentiy divided
Bulgaria into four archbishoprics, Varna, Silistria,
Sophia, and Temova, and into sixteen bisho{N^ The
higher clergy, who widd the power of exoomnmnication,
are also invested with an oflSdal character, and respon-
sible to the Government for the obedience of their flocks;
thus, being leagued with the spiritual power, and haimg
a fimatic sokliery ever ready to execute its commands, the
Ottoman Porte, weak as it confessedly is, may oontmue
to drag on an existence loi^;er than could be expected.
Still the sGgfatest event may lead to a catastrophei
The cfisoontented Mahometans in Bosnia and Albania
are still in arms; die nme qxrit of insabordBnatba
I
t
BULGARIA. 39 1
has found its way among the Mahometans in Asia,
who are all and everywhere hostile to the reforms of
the Sultan ; and should they succeed, we shall find the
fimatie hordes of Islamism again in power, which must
lead to a war of life and death between them and their
former slaves, the Rayahs.
This is the apprehension entertained by the clever,
far-seeing Government of independent Servia ; and to
provide against that or any other contingency, one of
its ministers assured me, that they had been for some
time making the most strenuous efforts to be prepared
(or the event, and that they had purchased weapons
sufficient to arm every able-bodied man in the princi*
paKty.
The late insurrection of the Bulgarians in the
pachalik of 'Widdin, must have been more alarming to
the Government of the Sultan than even the insur-
rection of the non-reforming Mahometans in Bosnia,
which induced it to recall the gaUant Croatian, Otner
Pacha, from Pristina, with orders to lose no time in
occup}ing Nissa, Sophia, and the other towns in the
Balkan, with every man that could be spared from
Bosnia, in order to prevent the spread of the in-
surrection. Bulgaria, however, has not yet produced
her Tzeroi George. The Haiducs, those eternal
enemies of Turkish rule, made a gallant stand, while
one party blockaded the strong town of Widdin, and
held the Pacha a prisoner in his fortress, another
dosed the gorges leading to the fortified towns of
Schoumla, Nissa, and Sophia^ Unequal as the struggle
392 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURRET.
ft • «
must have been, they maintained themselves tSl the
arrival of the Archbishop with threats of excommuni-
cation on one side, and promises from the Sultan on
the other, that their grievances would meet with redress,
and that they should be governed for the future by a
chief of their own religion. But as we were afterwards
informed by one of the leaders of the insurrection, we
met in the mountains :
''We shall gain nothing by the change,'' said he,
** it is merely a transfer of power into the hands of some
rich Fanariot Greek from Constantinople, who having
to pay for his place, must make good the void in his
purse, and under the doak of a common religion, be
even better enabled to carry on the work of extortion.
However,** continued my informer, ** the time is drawing
nigh when seven millions of Slavonians will prove to the
world they know how to govern themselves ; and were it
not the dread of our enemies, the Rouss, in Moldavia and
WaSachia, and the unwillingness of the Prince of Servia
to assist us, the revolt of the Rayahs in the pachalik
of Widdin would have sounded the death-kneQ to
Turkish rule throughout the whole of Bulgaria and Old
Servia."
The insurrection of WidcUn, however, has been at-
tended with some favourable results ; indirect taxation has
been abolished, and the Rayahs are now allowed to build
churches, repair monasteries, and erect schools of educa-
tion without purchasing the bouiourdis (permisaon)
from the Divan ; they are also allowed to establish their
own popular communal government, and the tyranny of^
BULGARIA. , 393
the GasdaI3c, to wludi we before refiened, was under
consideration, together with other grievous impositions^
which placed them at the mcn^ of a host of yampjre
usurers — Jews, Armenians and Greeks^ who were
accustomed to purchase the right of fiurmiog the impe-
After all we have said and written respecting the
political and social state of these provinces ; the weak*
ness of the government^ and the difficulty with which it
maintains order in a country composed of so many
nationalities, creeds and opinions, to say nothing oi ita
inability to defend itself from foreign aggression; it
must be evident we are not very sanguine in our hopes
of the stability of Mahometan rule in this part of the
Turkish empire. Indeed, the overthrow may be more
sudden, and the results more complicated and embarrass-
ing to the diplomatic corps of Western Europe than
they now dream of; who, occupied with their own
troubles, cares, and petty jealousies of states, are not
sufficiently aware of the actual state of these provinces — *
their political, social, and religious influences ; nor how
potent is the lever they possess, in a vast Christian
population, should they feel inclined to carry into these
lands any of their political changes for the dvilization
and amelioration of mankind, or perhaps what thqf
value still more, the establishment of the balance of
power.
Even since our last visit to these provinces in 1847f
a considerable change has taken place in the temper and
feelings of the people, both Christians and Mahometans.
394 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
The insurrecdon in Hungary, which drove such multi-
tudes of Poles, Servians, Croatians, and Hungarians for
refuge to European Turkey, many of whom found an
asyhun among the Haiducs of the mountain — all speak-
ing' or having some knowledge of the Slavonian
language — has been the means of disseminating
opinions which have made a deep impression. Their
ricBcule of the Turkish soldiery — ^their bitter invectives
agunst a feeble government which must have delivered
them to thdr enemies, if France and England had not
oome forward to their rescue — and then to be detained
prisoners — their rage knew no bounds. Again, thdr
scorn and contempt for a country without roads or
Inidges, its fortresses crumbling into ruins^ was un-
bounded. Ndther were their comments upon the
decrq)itude and want of tact displayed in the adminis-
tration, of the most flattering character. AH this sunk
deqdy into the nunds of the people, who having been
long accustomed to these evils» did not r^ard them
dirough the same medium as the refugee strangen^
who had been educated in countries, which, however
badcward in dvilization they may be, are still centuries
in advance oiTvarkej.
Of every other weapon, ridicule gives the deepest
wound. The Turk felt it when the fiery Hun or Pole
told him his Sultan was an old woman, and his govern-
ment in its dotage. The Rayah, however abject, must
have winced to hear that he was an animal to be
trodden under foot We doubt much, that the Rayahs
of Bulgaria would have had reoouiw \a tu^^o^
•1
BULGARIA. 395
however exorbitant might have been the exactions of
Zia, F^ha of Widdin, had they not felt the truth of
these observations, and their own d^radation; and
once in arms, we doubt if they would have surrendered
to the promises of the Sultan, and the threat of excom*
munication held over them by the Bishop, had there
been a newspaper, or postal communication in European
Turkey, which would have informed them of the insur-
rection that was then raging in Bosnia, Herzegowina^
the Kraina, and part of Albania.
■ •
396 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER XXII.
Joiumej to Scboomla — Fortress of Schoamla — Considered as a
militafj position — ^The town and its inhabitants — Route to
Varna — Description of the fortified towns of Bulgaria, on
the Danube and the Black Sea — ^The political and commercial
7 importance of Bulgaria — The Balkan and its defiles — Position
and future prospects of the Bulgarian nationality — Hints to
traTeQers— Obserrations upon the navigation of the Danube.
On leaving Tcmova for Scbouinia, we ascended the
beautiful valley of the Salter, when we found ourselves
in the lesser range of the Balkan. If the scenery was
not quite so wQd and magnificent as that in the Great
Balkan, it was more picturesque and concentrated.
There were mountains with their gorges, undulating
hiUs with their tiny vales, carpeted with luxuriant grass,
rivers, rivulets, and torrents winding through them,
dark forests, hamlets, orchards, and cultivated fields.
It was in reaUty a beautifid picture, such a one as the
imagination of a painter might call up as an Arcadia ;
there was every variety of shade, foliage, at\d vec^^t^^
BULOARIA. 397
IS fresh from the hand of nature as if it had been lying
in the some state for thousands of years ; and to add to
the romance and wQdncss of the tour we encountered
the roaring tortuous Kirgetschy, and had to ford it at
least from tiventy to thirty times durii^ our route. At
length we perceived the town and fortress of SduNunht
tt^ther with the immense steppe which extends from
here to the Euxine on one side, and on the other from
the Danube through Besserabia to the great northan
steppe which leads to the Baltic and St. Petersburg.
Scboumla, considered with reference to its situation,
and the strength of its forti6caUons, is the most im-
portant town in European Turkey, and may be termed,
from the great extent of its out-works, a fortitied camp^
requiring at least fifty thousand men to defend it in the
event of a siege This has been the great mbtake of
the Prussian engineers tbttt constructed it, who lost
sight of the fact that the fate of an empire does not so
mudi depend upon the strength and number of its
fortified [daces as the issue of a great battle; in the
event of a war fifty thousand effective soldiers shut up
in a fortress, would be a serious loss and expense to
even a first-rate power. Still Scboumla is a strong
position, and like the centre of a radii corresponds with
all the fortified towns on the Danube and the Black
Sea, which enables it to check any invasion from ths
north that might be directed by land against Constao*
tinople ; however, to be rendered perfectly secure, Varna
on the Black Sea slunild also be strongly fortified,
therwisc the passes of Boujouk, Kaminitze, and Aidoa
398 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
in the Balkan, are left in a manner unprotected. By
thb route the Russians got to Adrianople in 18279 ai^d
what they adueved once, they can agun on any future
oocanon.:
Schoumla is said to contain nearly thirty thousand
inhabitants, and as usual in these towns of European
Turkey each distinctive race and religion has its proper
quarter. In the Grad around the citadel, nestle twenty
thousand Mahometans in thdr wooden huts, protected
by its cannon. Here, may be seen several mosques
with thdr minarets and domes covered with lead,
sinning in the sun like burnished s3ver. The Varosh,
the poorest quarter, is exclusively inhabited by the
Rayahs, who may be said to amount to six or seven
thousand. Adjoining this is the commerdal district,
where we find collected the rich traders — ^Armenians,
Greeks, and Franks; Israelites, Zinzars, and Slavonians,
each having thdr own street and their own temples of
worship, and at the same time adhering most strictly to
their own language and pecuUar costume, as if their
very esdstence depended upon the cut and form of their
garments.
The dtadd, forts, casemates, barracks, and town are
plentifully supplied with most exceDent water; store-
houses filled with provisions, powder magazines, artilleiy
warehouses, and every posdble contingency provided
against in the event of a Aegt.
The dghteen leagues that separate Schoumla fi!om
Varna on the Black Sea, offer nothing to interest the
traveOer: subject to great and sudden chan^ of
BULGABU. 399
climate — now the cold winds of the north, and agua
the burning heat <^ A«a — the landsoqie at once loan
that picturesque appearance we so much odmirrd since
our airiTsI in Bulgaria.
Vania, the andent Odessus, stiU exhihits mdandiolj
traces of the bombardment of the Russians. As a
naval and commeroal pontion, the bay is deep, and of
great extent; the anchorage sure, and rompletcfy pro-
tected against the winds of the north and south — the
most i£s8strous to shipping in the Kadc Sea; with mm
great advantage over its rival, Odessa iu South Rusna,
that navigation is never iotemipted during the severest
winter.
Vania should be declared a free port, the surest and
most expeditious means of devating a place like this to
commercial importance, with a vast and fruitful teiri*
toiy adjomin^ rich in all the raw productions so neces-
sary to the manu&cturer and the trader, at the lowest
possible rat^ and to obtain which he is obliged to
resort to the more distant countries of Rusaa.
In these provinces, the com of every description
cannot be surpassed in weight and nutritious qualities,
the wine and fruits are excellent, with oil, tallow, hides,
wax, honey, timber, and live stodc of every description,
all of which might be quadrupled in a few years, if the
inhabitants had a market for the sale of the surplus
produce of thdr labour.
The want of a commercial outlet is severely felt by
the mdustiious population of the rich and fertile Bul-
garia; in the absence of roads theiy are obliged to
400 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
transport the produce of the country on the backs of
mules and horses, across steep mountdns and rugged
defiles, to seek a market in the lai^ towns on the
Danube, and those of Thrace and Macedonia, where
agriculture is, in a great measure, n^Iected by the
indolent natives, Turks and Greeks.
The province of Bulgaria, forming the frontier in
this part of the Turkish empire, has frequently been the
theatre of war, between the Osmanli and their neigh-
bours, the Austrians and Russians; having the Black
Sea and the Danube for a boundary, and defended by a
connecting chain of strong towns and ports, from Varna
to Widdin, nature and art have combined to render it a
position of great strength. It must, however, be con-
fessed Russian cannon has made a deplorable breach in
the cordon, that art had so admirably reared up as a
defence^ for the most part the work of the ancient
Romans, the Bulgarians, and their allies, the Hun-
garians before the Turks obtained possession of the
countiy.
Widdin and Silistria are still capable of sustaining a
siege, but the defences of Routschouck and Varna, with
the citadels of Nicopoli, Hirsova, and Isaakschack, have
been so damaged and dbmantled, and repaired in so*
slovenly a manner, as to be no longer capable of offering
any effectual resistance. Assuming that an enemy had
crossed the Danube, and gained terra firma, Schoumla
must be taken and besieged, before they could get to
the Balkan, which is seen to rise up like a vast ^raSU
towering to the heaveas, uVt tx^X^kc^ ^da&. ^^scvdk^v
BULGAmU. 401
impassabla banier, to defead Uw Eden bgrood it
Singular enough, while each pass on the Bulgmriui ada
of the chun is abrupt, contracted and difficult of asoeol^
where a few trees cut down would bar op the punge;
those on the otho' nde, that lead to Ibnoe, Maoedoni^
Thessaly, and Greece are more <^ien and tmf to
descend.
If we conliaue our tour by the Daimbe; from tfia
fortress of Widdin, and asceod the Save at Bdgrade^ we
shall find a contanuation of the same cord<Mi ai fiirts and
karaouls along the whole lioe of the IWlush frontier til
it meets the Austrian posses^ns Dahnatia, Bagusa, and
Cattaro on the Adriatic. This sea, tog^her with die
Archipdago, the Dardanelles, the Bosphonu, the Danube
and the Save, combine to surround these beautifrd p(o>
vinces of Turkey in Europe with abdt of water. Should
then this highly-foroured country, u eaiaiy defended, its
mountiuns and defiles forming a succesaon of natural
fortresses, so diversified in its productioni, ferUlc^ and
irrigated with navigable livera and lakes, fidl into dw
hands of an active power, it must become one of the
most important possesions in Eun^ wbeUicr we cod>
sider it commerdally or poUtical^.
Having already givm a slight Mstorical sketdk of the
Bulgarians, adverted to their first settlements in this
part of Europe, and how they gradually subdued pto>
vince after province, till they gave their laws to da
whole of the inhabitants, we wiD now proceed to
point out the various positions this nee still occupy,
vbo, if the) are not the most warlike; are certuoly die
70L. U. ^^
irYrf?a^>gr *" *, T ^' »■ 1 1 • Hi ni g ■■ MWiimii-m
•■^* "»• ... ....
402 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
most numerous, moral, and industrious, of all the
nationalities in European Turkey ; and are, therefore,
likely at no distant day to exerdse considerable political
influence over the destinies of the inhabitants of these
provinces.
A despotic government may alter the names of dis-
tricts, even the designation of a people; but thdr
language, customs, manners, and habits remain un-
changed. Our readers must not, therefore, ima^ne
that the unimportant district, marked in the map by the
Turkish authorities as the kingdom of Bulgaria, compre-
hends all that properly comes under this denomination.
The large district, through which we travelled on the
banks of the Maritza, in Thrace, and which stiU retains
its andent Bulgarian name, Zagora, with Philippi for
its capital, may be r^arded as a province of Bulgaria ;
the same may be said of a large district of Macedonia
in the vicinity of Seres, where we find the Bulgarians
the dominant race. Then we have the Balkan district
with Sophia for its capital, tiie Danubian province, with
Widdin for a capital, Varna with its immense plain, the
Dobrouji, and finally the banks of the Morava, in Upper
Moesia ; in short, throughout the whole of that vast
district, extending from the frontier of Servia, the
Danube, and the Black Sea, to Salonica on the ^gean
Sea, and through Thrace to the Gulf of Saros, the Bul-
garian language is spoken, and that people constitute
the dominant race, comprising altogether a population^
according to the statements of weD-informed natives
.mdrendeat Eranks, of about fo>xr xmBooiA «DA^\a&^
BULGARU. 403
We can easQy account for the wide dissemination of
thb race in European Turkey. While the Greel^ too
proud to submit to the extortion and contumelj of an
Osnumli tyrant, sought a living in commerce ; and the
equally proud Servian expatriated himself beyond the
Danube, and founded a new Servia in Hungary, or
ascended the mountmns, and became a shepherd and a
haiduc; the patient submissive Bulgarian took their
place as agricultiu-ists. Thus, while the other nation*
slides, the indolent Osmanli and the commercial Gredc8»
the inhabitants of towns and sea-ports, were carried oflf
by plague, pestilence, and malaria ; and the ever-turbu-
lent fiery Servian, in his eternal wars with the Maho-
metans, by the sword ; the phlegmatic Bulgarians, ever
follomng the healthful occupation of husbandry, and
protected by the lords of the land — the Osmanli, mul-
tiplied, and at the same time secured to themselves, by
their industry, possession of one of the most fertile
districts in Europe, equally important as a commercial
position, having the Danube, the Black Sea, and the
^gean, as a boundary, and watered besides by the
Maritza, the Morava, and several other rivers, which
might be rendered navigable.
To the north of Varna commences the immense
Steppe, known as the Dobrouji, inhabited by a remnant
of the Nogay Tatars, who having been driven from
South Russia, settled here, and by marrying and inter-
marrying with the Bulgarian shepherds, became con-
verted to Christianity, and so completely amalgamated
in language, customs, and manners, that they may now
D D 2
I ■ I II 1 fciw*«— awi«Mi^h^w
404 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
be r^arded as the same people. The Dobrouji Steppe
extends to the numerous islands, known as the Delta of
the Danube, all uninhabited, without tree or shrub, the
head-quarters of mosquitoes and intermittent fever, and
whidi can only be compared to one of those vast
savannas of the New World, abounding in boars, and
every species of aquatic bird.
We would recommend the traveDer, who may be
desirous to make the tour of the Danube from Con-
stantmople, to land at the little port of Kostendshe, on
the Black Sea, by which he will escape a long and
disagreeable voyage round by Soulina, the only navigable
channel of all the outlets of the Danube. At Kostendshe
he will find an agent of the Austrian Navigation Com-
pany, whose duty it is to ud the traveller and attend to
his wants. There are vehides always in readiness
to convey him to Tchemawoda, on the Danube, where
he can amuse himsdf by visiting the villages of the
Bulgarians in the neighbourhood till the arrival of the
steam-boaL
In the time of the Romans, the Emperor Trajan
entertained the idea of making a canal fix>m this place
to the Euxine, which, if completed, would shorten the
distance from about three himdred miles to thirty, an
enterprize that might be carried into effect at a very
trifling expense, when we consider that the groimd is
quite level, with the Karasou lake in the centre of suffident
depth to assist the undertaking.
The late Sultan Mahmoud, who was really a man of
eneigy, caused the ground to be measured and mariced
BULGARIA. 406
out, aDd would have carried the work into execution,
had he not been pre^'cnted hy the Cabinet of St.
Petcnhurg. We presume, because it was contraiy to
the treaties of the navigation of the Danube, which
secured to Rusua the only practicable route to the Blade
Sea — that by Soulina ; but as this treaty has expired,
or was said to expire in 1 850, leaving the navigation of
the Danube open to every nation, this much-desired
work ot^t to he carried into execution, which would not
only pay the contractors an immense profit, but coD-
uderably benefit the commerce of the Lower Danube.
We fear, however, that the weak sovereigns of Austria
and Turk^ dread the displeasure of the Autocrat too
much to cany the design of the vigorous Roman into
execution.
Id the mean time the poor mariner is obliged to
adopt the long and tortuous route, the Soulina channd,
which, owing to the accumulation of sand at the bar,
can only receive vessels of a hundred and fifty tons
burden ; and we have still greater cause to r^ret, the
non-cooipletioD of this woHc, when we remember the
number of lives that are lost every year by malaria and
fever during this voy^e, rendered so long and tiresome,
by endeavouring to avoid the sand-banks, as the
mariner is almost certain to carry home with him the
seeds of a disease, which it is said never leaves him.
Such a canal as we have alluded to, if constructed of
suffident depth for large merchant vessels, woiild
materially facilitate navigation ; for after passing the
Dt^ of the Danube, the river deepens considerably till
we arrive at Kladestitza, in Servia ; here the navigation
M^aiWf iMaMfclMMPI
406 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of the Danube is again inteirupted by a ridge of rocks
running across the river, called the Demirkapa (iron
gate), and, notwithstanding all Count Sz&henyi, that
excellent Hungarian, had done to deepen the bed of the
river, the passage is still dangerous. This was proved
a few years since by the loss of a vessel, its crew and
passengers. The boat, on arriring in the midst of the
n^ids struck against a rock, became unmanageable,
and turning round with the most frightful rapidity,
was instantly submerged in a whirlpool sufficient to
engulf a man-of-war. The only passenger that escaped
was an OsmanU, who, being doubtful of the ability of
St Nicholas, the patron saint of the Danube to ensure
the safety of the vessel, landed with the intention of
pursiung his journey on the banks of the river till the
danger was past But the laughter and ridicule of his
feDow passengers induced hun to alter his determina-
tion, and as he was in the act of stepping on board, a
ring containing an amulet slipped from his finger,
this was decisive — ^he would not tempt Kismet, and
thus to the loss of a ring he owed his life.
Like that between Kostendshe and Tchemawoda,
this breach in the navigation of the Danube might
easily be avoided by cutting a canal on the Servian side
of the river at Kladestitza, which would then open an
uninterrupted communication firom the Black Sea into
the heart of Germany, and shorten the route between
Constantinople and Vienna, to a five days' voyage at
the utmost. It would appear, firom the iqppearance of
the marsh, that a canal had actually existed h««, at
some time or other, perhaps the Nvotk ^ Vkib^lJ^msofl^
BULOAUA. 407
and which oa their expuIuoD fivm the couotiy, and th»
barbarism that foQowed. Ml into disuse, and in jvooen
of time became filled up.
Con anj-thiog afford a more decisive proof than du%
of the want of energy and eoterprize in the iohabitante
of these provinces ; and of the indolent supnenew of
thrir rulers. Wc may ri^cule the ^Ay and inert-
ness of the Turkg^ yet here we see the noblest river in
Europe runmng a course of eighteen hundred milea
from its source to the Black Sea, traverwig a suecesson
of the most fertile countries, and uniting by the most
natural, direct, and least expeoave route the commerce
of Central Europe with the vast countries of the Eas^
stiD remaining in a state of nature. Every successive
flood carries away vrith it the soil, and not unfrequently
even the villages on its banks, and forms accumulations^
which impede navigation, together vrith vast marsbe*
and stagnant lakes, from whidi arise exhalations, the
most prejudicial to the health of man.
A few hundred thousand Anglo-Saxon cdonists, if
they found these countries a desert, would have dtme
more in fifty years for the navigation of this noble river,
and the salubri^ of its banks, than all its Czan»
Kusers and Padishahs, Krals and Konigs, Hefzt^
Hospodars, Beys, and noble Princes, have effected in
centuries. It is true they perfectly understand the
parade, the marching, drilling and stuffing of soldiers
(we do not mean internally), the ^elat and magiu-
ficence of courtly etiquette, the maintenance of an army
of spies and court &vouritcs, nor are any more senatire
408 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TORKET.
to an invauon of thdr own royal wiD, or more prompt
in cutting the throats of thdr own subjects, and those
of their neighbours, about some crochet of precedenq^,
or an acre of disputed territory. To support these
undertakings money is ever forthcoming; but for the
execution of any great work of public utility, the
advancement of industry and commerce^ there is not a
£Euihing to be found in the exdiequer. Can we then
wonder at the discontent of a people, ground down by
taxation to support all tins theatrical dbplay, and fineiy
of the State ; or at Sodalism, Republicanism, Deutsdi-
catholidsm, Panslavism, Panteutonism, and all the
other isms, which have already shaken Europe to its
centre?
Let, then, the rulers of Europe combine with one
accord, and disband at least two-thirds of their nuDions
of soldiers, useless inatime of peace, who, while they add
nothing by thdr industry to the general wealth, are
gradually devouring into the vitals of the State. Let
them turn their attention to employing the people,
reclaiming marshes and waste lands, fadlitatmg and
supporting commerce and agriculture. Let the pro-
sessors of these most useful arts — the real benefactors
and civilizers of mankind — receive the honours and dis-
tinctions to whidi they are so weD entitled. Let the
people manage thdr own concerns under the 8afi^;uard
of firee mstitutions, and public opinion become the law
of the land; educatbn and rational liberty, dvil and
religbus, be extended to all classes, and we shall hear
no more of insurrections. The man vdio has got his
BULGARIA. 409
ships at sea, his warehouses full of nHrdiandise. hit
agricultural fields, thriving shop, and worinnea fully
employed, is Dot likdy ta become a revolutiomst. We
caoDOt say the same for the disappointed miUtaiy man,
nor the hrieflesa lawyer, who with niin staring him ia
the face is stilQ too proud to work, and who cooscaooi
of his owD superior abilities 1 and iodigaant at the
ingratitude of manldnd ! is certain to place himsdf at
the head of any movement that may offer the slightest
prospect of ddivering him from the misery and moD»<
tony of a life spent in vain 1
These remarks are strictly applicable to the countries
OD the continent — with their numerous armies end
state-bureaucracy (the latter being the substitute for our
municipalities), and where we find neariy eveiy other
profession regarded as ignoUc except those of the sword
and law. It therefore must follow that so long as these
alone lead to place, honour and distinction, there will
be no want of candidates ; and ^nce aU cannot be pro-
vided for, nor arrive at distinction, the disappointed
among these classes are certain to fiunish a sufficieat
number of clever ambitious men to lead any popular
movement, dethrone a monarch, or establish a goran-
mcnt of their own manufacture.
I
■ -■-■1.. p. .. f 1.^^^.^^ ■ ■ ^.^ .-. ^.^. J. V ^^A^A^J^^-'J^^ ....»:^^^ ^
410 TRAVELS Ur EUROPEAN TORKBT.
CHAPTER XXIIL
AmTal in WaDacbia — Gionrgero— Passport iBqiiisitisa — Rosnaa
polioe — Qnanmtine — AmTsl at Semlin — Bdgnie — English
Consul — Aostrian espionage — A ^sagrceahle pontion—
Sketches of Hongaiy and the SbiTonians in 1850— The late
Hungarian war — Causes that led to it — Count Wdienji and
Louis Kossuth — Proclamation of the Hungarisa constitntioii
— ^Discontent of the ShiTonians» WsHarhians and Saxons^
How acted vcpaa hy the CaUnet of T^cnna— TW Ban Jdhi-
chich, and Bajachich, Primate of the Senrisas Ofil war —
HorriUe scenes— The Austrian Consul at Bcl|H^ *>^ ^
brigands of European Turkey — Loms Kossndi*8 Appeal to
arms — Dedaration of the independence of Hnng^iy — ^Total
defeat of the Imperialists and thrir allies — Basnan inter-
Tention— Capitnhtion of Gorgey— Fall of
We crossed the Danube firom Routsdioiik to Giour&>
geFo, in Wallacfaiay in one of those unwiddy boats,
propeDed by an immense sail and a doaen of stout
Rayahs as rowers. We had for our companions a
Bimbaafai and his troop of tacticoes, as fine a set of
hardy wdl-grown fdlows as could be fbood m any
country^ every man of them furnished by nay old friends
VALLACHIA. 411
the Djcghi mountaioeeTS of Upper Albania, and who
were now on their way to join their n^mcot at Budbares^
(be capital of WaQadua.
On landing, we found the quay of GiourgeTo ooco-
pied by a crowd of well-dressed men and women in
European costume, intermingled with a 5ufficie*it number
of Orientals and Russian offioen in fuD u. ifimn, to
impait variety to the picture. The landing of a detad^
ment t^ Turkish troops was no unusual sght; but
great curiosity was e\idently excited to know who that
ragged, sun-burnt half-Emv[>can, half-Oriental looking
fellow could be, armed to the teeth and leading a
beautiful Arabian after him ; every eye was fixed upon
me, especially when my companions the Albanian
moimtainecrs were seen wringing my hands, and frying,
" Miire Dioi Inglez !" " Mir Shcsch-Kon," God be with
you, Eoglishman, and happy joume^l
Incognito is out of the question when a pasqiort is
in the way, and the basilisk eye of a Rus^an police
officer fixed upon the traveller, who tn the present
instance, without actually laying hands upon m^ for I
was still impure and &esh from Turkey, drove me and
my horse before him to the sanitary room, where after
v^ had both undergone a thorough futnigation, mj
four-legged companion was restored to libaiy, while his
poor master was led captive into the presence of the
military commander, for insurgent Walladiia was stiU
under martial law. The interrogatoiy was most seardi-
ing and prol<Higed, as to who I was? whence I camef
what the object of my wandering especially in Walladue
■jlmtti^'^\%tt^'-^nk''-'-''i^r-^''- riii" ] '■■■'•■^'^•- «''-^>^^•^^■■■'•■r>^■w-w■v■>■ :.,i^fT-ntfc^i.». >r-,-
412 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
could be ? and, finally, whether I bdonged to the vile
race of scribblers, the pest of sodety in every country I
Finding that I was a real Englishman (for my examiner
could speak a little English), and not one of those
revolutionary Hungarians, Poles, Italians, Germans, or
French travelling under the protection of an EngHsh
passport, his tone instantly changed to that of a cour-
teous well-bred man of the world, who knew how to
combine his duties of office with the manners of a
gentleman. He threw off all reserve and laughed and
chatted with me about my adventures in Turkey, as if
we had been old fiiends, and with the usual hospitality
of a Russian, ordered his servant to prepare a luncheon.
Such, in fact^ is the general character of the Russians
whenever they meet with an Englishman ; and although
I now and then give them some hard hits when I
moimt my hobby-horse and discuss politics, as indi-
viduals, I never met vnih one during my travels that I
did not part from with a desire to renew our ac-
quaintance.
The Turkish bath and a complete change of costume,
so transformed me in appearance, that even my sagacious
companion, Karabagh, had some difficulty in recognizing
his master in his European garments. And now, reader,
nnce our pages have already multiplied beyond the
ordinary size of a book of travels, we are compelled to
hasten forward; and as the Austrian steam-boat is
heard splashing and roaring in the river, we cannot lose
the opportunity of availing oursdves of its services to
take us to Belgrade ; and as to giving a description of
I
I
SERYIA. 4 IS
the scenery and towns on its banks, we should only be
repeating what we have ah*eady written in a previous work.
On arriving at Semlin, I left the steam-boat^ with the
intention of crossing the Danube, to pass a few days with
Mr. Fonblanque, her Majesty's Consul-General at Bel-
grade ; but in these unhappy countries, that once con-
stituted a part of Hungary, martial law replaces the
mild rule of the Magyar. Consequently, having once
entered the town even for an instant, I could not leave
it without the permission of the Austrian commandanL
In my case the difficulty was easily obviated, since my
passport was found to contain the recent signature of
the Rus^an authorities in Wallachia, which was now to
be embeDished with that of Herr General Schsdch, and
the broad seal of Imperial Austria.
j During the few days I remained at Belgrade, I was
H favoured with a great deal of interesting information
from Mr. Fonblanque respecting the late memorable
contest in Hungary, as well as from Mr. Carrosini, the
Consul of Sardinia, who accompanied M. Kossuth in the
capacity of political agent, to which we may have occa-
sion to refer when adverting to the causes which led to
the lamentable outbreak in Hungary. In neither case
should I have mentioned the names of these gcntiemen
without their sanction, but ha\nng already exerted them-
selves, from motives of humanity, to save the unhappy
refugees from their cruel enemies, they do not stand in
high favour with the Governments of Austria and
Russia, consequendy the notes of a traveller cannot
injure thdr reputation with either of these powers.
■Ill 1 1 ^ II rl •' • "1 lift" • -•--'-
414 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
As an iDustratioQ of the admirable system of poGce»
or rather espionage, exercised by Austria in foreign
countries, we must rdate a circumstance which occurred
here daring my stay in Bdgrade. There was a public
concert g^en by a fiunous muadan from Pest, whidi
we attended, accompanied by Mr. Fonblanque, Mr.
Cairodni, together with one of the ministers of the
IVince of Servia, and several other Servians, all well
known as the enemies of despotic principles. When
the concert was over, I was invited to an entertdnment
given by my Servian friends, at which beyond a few
liberal toasts nothing passed which could possibly give
offence even to the most despotic government ; but this
was suflkient to stamp me as a dangerous character in
the ^es of the Austrian spies, and subjected me to a
great deal of annoyance on my return to Semlin.
A day or two after this, on my arrival at Semlin, a
guard of soldiers surrounded me the moment I had
quitted the steam-boat; and in the midst of a crowd of
the wonder-loving inhabitants, I was conducted nolen$
volens to the presence of the stem commandant, Herr
General Schaidi, who no doubt expected he had caught
some revobdonary Hungarian or Pole in disguise, the
martial length of my moustache, and the circumstance
of qpealdi^ the Slavonian and German languages
fluently, might have given rise to the supposition. After
sdljecting me to a most vexatious cross-examination,
and findbg nothmg that could criminate me in the qre
of the kw, however arintrary, I was allowed to continue
nay routes with a friendly warning to beware how I again
■i^>*ai^k*i
HUNGAET.
415
sought for my friends among the osemies of his " Ksi-
serliche KonigHchc Majestat !" Fate, however, was not
so benignant in the case of the unfortunate Hungarian,
my fellow-traveller, who was sozed and dispatdied to Peat,
to be tried by a court-martial, and shot as a Hungarian
revolutionary agenL
After making several excursions on the banks of die
Danube, and in the interior of Hungary, where the war
liad raged with the utmost violence, we took the Austrian
steamer and ascended the Save to Agram, the capital of
Croatia. During our route we beheld on all sides the
ruins of towns and villages, the miserable inhabitants
here and there in a wTctched shed, still clinging to the
hearth of their once happy home, the sad memento of
ci\il war. To a traveller like mysdf, who had repeatedly
visited this beautiful country, particularly in 1847, and
with pleasure witnessed the rapid strides die inhabitants
had made in civilization and industry, the aspect of so
much misery left an impression never to be forgotten ;
and how awful must have been the contest in a country
where aQ the worst passions of man were let looser
inhabited by so many nationalities, Hungarians, Au8«
trians, Croatians, Servians, WaDachians, Saxons^ and
various minor tribes of Slavonians and Gipsies, detest-
ing each other with aQ the bitterness created by diver-
sity of race and religious prejudice.
We have not sufficient space in this work to enter
into details of the late Hungarian vear, nor to g^e a
record of the extraordinary braveiy of the valiant Ma-
gyars during a contest perhiqps unparallded in histoiy.
■g.'^ail^Uijft* ■ fiU'^ii -iii'fiii-^'rfr i[-i)iiriiiii il •■hiliMiitilrti^^iiittiiTBii i Hill • if i i
416 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
when a nationality only numbering six milfions
fought for its existence, not only against two empires,
with their vast resoxuices, but was at the same time
called upon to suppress the insurrection of its own sub-
jects, Slavonians, WaBachians and Saxons, fxt more
numerous than their masters, who were everywhere
nosing the standard of insurrection, and fighting side by
side with thdr enemies, the Russians and Austrians.
StiU, however numerous, we have seen them up to the
last moment victorious, and no doubt they would even-
tually have triumphed alike over Czar and Kaiser, had
not treachery, and the fears of the timid at the critical
moment sapped the strength of the army and the
councils of the nation, leading to the capitulation of the
traitor Gorgey at Villagos on the 13th of August, 1849.
We cannot wonder at these events when we remember
the shameful n^lect of Hungary by the Cabinets of
England and FVance, whose timely interference, if it had
served no other purpose, would have had the effect of
reconciling the people with their sovereign, and pre-
v^itmg the necessity of Austria applying in the first
instance for help to Russia. In every case Russia ought
not to have been allowed to interfere in the affairs of
Hungary ; it is a dangerous precedent, and might prove
fatal to the growth of constitutional principles, were we
not satisfied that the Czar, combined with all the
dfqxytic {Minces of Europe^ cannot arrest the mardi
di fireedom, civilization and intelligence, and which has
at last commenced not only among the inhabitants of
these provinces^ but even among the serfi of Rnsi
UUNOAST. 417
In no pmnt of riev can we term ths Hungariins revo-
luUonists, much less socialists, it was the struggle of
m noble people to defend their lives and properties from
tbe attack of numerous hordes of brigands let loose
upon them from every Slavonian country in Austria and
TWk^, proved to have been the paid agents of the
Austrian Government in its attempt to subvert the con-
stitution and liberties of the Hungarian people. '
Previous to this lamentable war, Hungaiy as a king-
dom was as independent as England, with this di&
ference, that the Emperor of Austria was also King of
Huagaty. The kingdom was governed by its own laws,
had its own representative government, miuntsined its
own troops, had its own defined frontier, with custom-
houses, and all the macbioeiy of a constituted monardij
subsisting in, and by itself. Uke cveiy other peo{da
who have made rapid strides in d\'flization, the old
worn-out constitution of a thousand years duiatioD,
only favourable to the high aristocracy, the magnats,
did not accord with the growing intelligence of the
industrious classes, who had been struggling for the last
half century to obtain a thorough reform, gaining fivm
time to time some trifling advantage according to the
fears of the magnats and the Government.
At length the weQ known Hungarian nobleman,.
Count Szcchenyi, aware of the danger of any longer
refuung equal rights to every clans of his countrymen,
placed himself at the head of the progrcs»vo party, and
extorted from his own — the privileged classes — several
important concessions. StiQ the popular party were not
VOL. II. X 1
,i)rf,,«-...1tV--rWn^Yi^l>,-.,.V--.. J-* ■-.^A.^.-^.J.,^,.. 1,-,^,y^pj,-
418 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
satisfied, and manifested their discontent by agitating in
eveiy city, town, and province throughout the Hun*
garian monarchy. Loins Kossuth now became the
diampion of the popular party, and being gifted with
the highest powers of eloquence, while on the one hand he
won the affections of the people, on the other, by the
force of argurooet, he brought to bear upon the ques-
tion, he made an impres^on upon the magnats,
and eventuaUy gained to his opinion every Hungarian
nobleman who had the foresight to see that the spirit of
the age was altogether adverse to the continuance of the
old feudal institutions of the country.
Such was the position of Hungary, when the revo-.
lution ol the French in 1848 shook so many European
thrones to thdr foundation. The progressive party
now redoubled their exertions, and the times were too
pregnant with danger for the demands of the people to
be slighted. The obstinacy of the Kmg and the mag-
nats gave way to the dread of a revolution, and the long
wished for constitution was drawn up and sworn to by
the King. AH the old feudal institutions which pressed
so heavily on the industrious classes were at once swept
away — equal rights were granted to every inhabitant of
Hungary, of whatever race, or religious sect. Trial by
jury was established — ^ministerial respon^bility — ^liberty
of the press; in short, everything that could tend to
establish the liberty and independence of the nation.
Unfortunatdy, there was one article in the constitution
dedaring that the Hungarian language should be hence-
forth that of the State, the Senate, and the Ck)urts of
HUNOART. 419
Law. TIus became a serious grierance in a country
composed of so many nationalities, each speaking their
own language, and adhering to thrir peculiar customs
and manners, and wfarae, out of a populatiiHi of fifteen
milUons, only ax bdong to the Hungariana. This led
to great excitement among the Slavonians of Croatia,
whidi quickly spread to the Slavoniani of Hungarian
Ser^ ; from these to the WallachiaDB and Saxons of
Transylvania. Agitators were not wanting to add fresh
Aid to the flame, whidi now bumed fienxly throughout
the whole of Hungary.
The wily cabinet of Vienna lost no time in taking
advantage of this new element of disorder, so oppor-
tunely presented for being made a pretence of destroying
the constitution of Hungary — ^a constitution whidi,
while it vested all responsibiUty in the posoo o( Hio
ministers, gave to the Pariiament of Hungary the stAe
power of dispo^g of the supplies of the country, and
thus for ever annihilated the influence of an Austrian
cabinet in the internal affairs of the country. This
could not be borne by a despotic Prince, be^des it was
a dangerous example to the remfunder of his subjects.
The Hungarians, however renowned for their hravwy
in the field, are not celebrated for their skill in diplomatic
warfare. They saw not that the Panslavist propagandists
of Austria and Russia had exdted agunst them a host
of ardent patriots, in Croatia and Servia, who [ffeforcd
their, own nationality and language to liboul institutions,
if they were to be enjoyed under a Hungarian master.
Th^sw< ncJt^bb tendency, or disregarded it, if they didt
420 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
of the half pastoral, half warlike letter of Rajachich, the
primate of the Servians, to the faithful members of the
Oriental creed, warning them that their religion was in
danger, and that their nationality was about to be swal-
lowed up in that of their old tyrants, the Latin Hun-
garians.
To the last moment, the Hungarian reformers would
not entertain the supposition that any people, however
ignorant, however debased, could prefer serfdom to
liberty, and therefore neglected taking any other precau-
tionary measure, except sending a few civil agents into
the disturbed districts to calm the effervescence of the
Slavonians. In the meantime, their distressed monarch,
driven from his capital by his German subjects, appealed
to the sympathy of his faithful Hungarians — a litde
cajoling, and the best troops of Hungary were sent to
Lombardy to assist the hardly pressed Marshal Radetzky.
These were to be exchanged for Austrian and Italian
rc^ments, who, the government promised, should be
employed in coercing the revolutionary tendencies of
the Slavonians in Hungary, and thus relieve the mag-
nats of the disagreeable necessity of employing their
own troops.
At length the conviction of the unwelcome truth
burst upon the Hungarian people too late; they saw
the trap into which they had fallen. The imperial
troops, at the critical moment, when Marshal Radetsky
•had mastered the Italians in Lombardy, instead of
attacking the Croatians and the Servians under their
rebd chieftains, the wdl known Jellachich and Strati-
UUNGAKT.
4S1
i
morowichy united their armies, and marched by onkr of
the Emperor to reduce the Hungarians, who were now
denounced as rebels, to obedience. Thus, this unfiir*
tunate people aB at once saw themselves like an island
in the midst of a sea, from which there was no outlet,
that did not lead to certain ruin.
We must throw the veil of obscurity over the hor-
rible scenes that now took place in Hungary — too
horrible to shock English sympathy with thdr details.
It is sufficient to say that perfidy and cruelty marked
every movement of the Austrian cabinet. While
Jellachich, who was created, by an Imperial ord^. Ban of
Croatia and Governor of Hungary, at the head of thirty
thousand Croatians carried fire and sword into the heart
of the country, the Seman fanatics, equally numerous
and still more ferocious, massacred every human being
that feU into their hands, of Hungarian origin. Wher-
ever they penetrated, desolation and ruin marked their
footsteps — ^fiourishing towns, burgs, villages, hamlets,
aU were pillaged and burnt
The same active and mischievous influence that put
arms in the hands of the Slavonians on the banks of
the Save, the Theiss, and the Danube, was equally
successful in Transylvania, the home of the sturdy
Saxon, and the scmi-cl\ilized Wallachian, and that no
chance of escape should remain to the victims of
Austrian perfidy, Mayerhoffer, the Austrian Consul-
General at Belgrade, invited all the brigands of Servia,
Bulgaria, and Bosnia, the Slavonian rayah subjects of
the Ottoman Porte, to the plunder and slaughter of
TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
their old enemies the Latin Hungarians. Many thou-
sands responded to the call, who on crossing the frontiers
were furmshed with arms and officers hy the Austrian
agents. Mr. Fonblanque, our Consul^General, at Bel-
grade, assured me o£ the &ct, and that for months
afterwards boat-loads of the plunder of Hungary crossed
the Danube and the Save by day and night.
In the midst of tlus dreadful massacre, for we cannot
give it the mild term of a civil war, the genius of one
man rose triumphant, and had he been as ^tinguished
a general as he was an orator and a true patriot, Loius
Kossuth would have descended to posterity as one of
the greatest men produced in any age. His soul-stirring
orations infused new spirit into the hearts of his droop-
ing compatriots, when with one burst of universal
indignation the whole Hungarian people declared the
perfidious house of Hapsburg to be for ever excluded
from the throne, and his appeal to arms was responded to
by every dass throughout the entire land.
Hate, jewds, trinkets, and every article of luxury or
utility, convertible into money was sacrificed at the
shrine of patriotism. Men poured in firom every
quarter, not only Hungarians, but Germans, Jews, Wal-
lachians, and Slavonians of every tribe and religious sect.
In short, every free, enlightened mind rushed with
enthusiasm into the ranks and fought for freedom with
a heroism which astonished the civilized worid. Al-
though for the most part mere recruits — noblemen^
dtizens and traders firom the counting-house, agricul-
turists and shepherds, armed with whatever weapon
^«ca>a
they coiild procure in the hurry of the moment, m aa
incredible short space of time they carried all befon
Aiem, Fortress after fortress, to\s-n after town, fell into
tbdr hands, or declared for the cause of the patriots.
IIk Ban Jellochich and his Crotians, were everywhere
beaten, and the ^natic priest Rajachich, the primate,
with bis Servians were driven to seek their safety in
the marshes of the Thejss, the Save, and the Danube,
where thousands were carried otf by huogfr and the
ague. As to General Mayerhoffer's recruits, the bandit
Rayahs of European Turkey, whose rapacious habits,
ferodty, and daring, exceeded all the others during this
crud crusade against the Hungariia nation, wherever
one of them was found, he paid the penalty of hts
crimes by being hung like a dog.
It was in vain that the Austrian Govemincnt dis>
patdied its finest troops and most experienced geoerals
into Hungary, they were driven over the frontier, w
surrendered themselves by thousands, as prisoners of
war. Of thb we shall give one instance among others,
the ca[Htulation of the Generals Rott and Ftlipovitz, who
with twelve thousand men, and twelve field-pieces,
yidded to an inferior force of Hungarians, under tbar
gallant leader, the well-known Ser\'ian, PerczeL In the
meantime the heroic Bern, with his little army of Poles,
h&ving driven the Russians out of IVansylvania, pacified
that unhappy province, so long the theatre of rapine,
fire, and bloodshed. In short, it must suffice for oup
hasty sketch of the memorable events wluch then took
fdace in Hungary, to say, that victory after victory
424 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
crowned the arms of the patriots with a rapidity more
like the events of a romance than soher reality, wluch
obliged the despairing Austrian to crouch at the feet
of the Czar, and b^ for hdp.
We win conclude by saying, that the last great vic-
tory of the Hungarians was fought at Hyges, on the
14th of July, 1849, imder the command of General
Guyon. Here the Austrian army of the south com-
bined with the Slavonian rebel subjects of Hungary,
were completely beaten, and must have been entirely
destroyed had they not found shelter under the cannon
of the fortified town of Tital, on the Theiss, which still
remsuned in possession of the Imperialists.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Keflcctioni <w the policy of Aiutm with regard to HimgaiT^
Alliance b«twe«i Austria and EumU — Ft^olatioa of tba
Aiutrian empire — How divided into nationalitiet — DirinaB of
Hangar; — Excitement and discontent in Hmigarj, Croatia,
SUvonia, and Serria— Reactionaij feeling of the SlavoinaBa
toward* the Magyars — Hatred of Anstrian rule — Kcaolta of
the contest In Hmtgary — ^What may be the future destiiij of
Hui^aiy and the Slavonian piorinc^-s of the Lower Dannbe —
Observation! on the political state of Hungar; and Ibe
Austrian empire — General view of the present positian of
Roina, Austria, Germany and Tnrkey,
We sincerely r^ret the misfortuoes that have so
receotly befaDen the Austrian Empire, and we equaify re-
gret to be obliged to record an opinion condemnatoiy of
the policy of a power so loog and so often associated
mth Great Britain in some of the most brilliant periods
of her history. We would rather see the industriooi.
stroag-minded German population of Austria united
with the enteiprizing Magyars, marching tt^etber in
the great work of civilizing the benighted inhalntants
-of the East. But even were there no other causes of
426 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
complamt, the vrongs of Hungary have left memories
never to be erased, and the future historian win com-
ment upon these wrongs, in terms hr less laudatory
to the Austrian Government than the pen of an English
travdier.
Now that an is over, and the sword of the Czar
and the Kaiser, with the executioner have laid low the
brave race of the Magyar, the reader may be desirous
to know by what system of political casuistry the Aus-
trian Cabinet could have acted with such base perfidy
towards the Hungarian people. It might be presumed
that a Government whose subjects are composed of so
many nationalitieSi'^over which the Slavonians predo-
minate in number — a people whose tendencies firom an
affinity of race, language, religion, customs, and man-
ners, are more Russian than German, would rather have
sought an alliance with the Hungarians — ^by fsiT the
most valorous and enterprizing nationality in the
Austrian Empire, in order to counterbalance and hold
in check the influence of so powerful a neighbour as
Russia. This apparent inconsistency is easQy explained
by the notorious fact,, that every act of the Court of
A^nna, since the Congress, in 1815, has uniformly
been, to use a vulgar expresdon, to toady Russia, and
be at an times the ready instrument of the Czar — to
crush liberal institutions, and arrest the march of mindy
whether in Germany, Italy, or its own States. The
Hungarian, as we have shown, after years of peaceful
agitation, took advantage of the troublesome period of
1848, to extort firom thdr IGng and aristocracy those
I,
HUNGARY. 427
dianges in the representative system of Govemmenl^
so ardently desired by the majority of the people, and
in accordance with the spirit of the age. Despotic
Russia, with its million of serfis, could not permit so
liberal a ^stem of Govamment in a country lying on
her frontier. Consequently, the Hungarians were pro-
scribed and denounced as a people possesdng opmons
dangerous to the stabifity of social order.
We do not make these assertions from hearsajy
thqr are extracts from a mass of Hungarian State
papers l}ing before ns, together with a number d[ in-
tercepted letters found among the baggage of the Ban
of Croatia, and the other Slavonian and Imperial
leaders, and agents of Austria and Rus^a — all furnish-
ing undoubted proof, that from the commencement of
the struggle, Russian intervention was expected to take
place, in the event of the Imperialists of Austria not
being sufficiently strong to put down the Hungarian
liberals. As a proof that we have not distorted or
exaggerated facts, we have annexed several highly
important original documents, which will completdy
corroborate every statement we have made respecting
the distressing scenes that took place in Hungary, and
the perfidy of the Austrian authorities.
The originals, signed by the Members of the Senate
and the Hungarian Government, are in the hands of
our puUishera**
ds is a serious view of the question, and amounts
* See Appendix*
428 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
to this : if the Govcraments of Austria and Russia are
allowed to arrest the march of civOizationy there can be
no hope nor prospect of seeing an end to those eternal
revolutionary struggles of the inhabitants of Continental
Europe, to secure to themselves liberal institutions.
In fact, the intimate aUiance of these two powers, in
their crusade against every popular form of government,
and the dexterity they display in endeavouring to bring
into contempt the representative system, has not suffici-
ently excited the attention of the inhabitants of our free
countries of the West. It is true Austria ranks in
Europe as a German power, having a German town for
her capital, and a German administration, but her real
strength lies in the aUegiance of her Slavonian subjects
— ^who constitute the majority, and with whom she
possesses no ties of kindred, no endearing remembrances
of tradition and fatherland, and whom the Czar of
Russia, in liis character of Slavonian Prince, could at
any time absolve from the tics that bind them to a
German ruler.
The insidious attempt of Austria at this moment
under the plea of maintaining social order to obtain the
mastery in Germany, with her Slavonian tail, is part
and parcel of the same Muscovite policy that struck
down the thousand year monarchy of the Magyars.
When Germany becomes Slavonian, republican France
must be dismembered ! and the British people be taught
that public opinion only belongs to a Sovere^!
Winding up the drama by a solemn declaration to the
world, that at length it had pleased Heaven, that the
Ught of a purer ffuth should dawn o^'e^ caiam coontiiei
m Asia and Europe, once subject to the infidel nik d i
Mahometan Sovereign 1 llius we may sec accoroidisbeJ
through our own supioencss the prediction of the ex3t
of St Helcoa, who said, that fif^ years more would
the whole of Europe either Cossack or Republican 1
However, all this can be pnn'entcd without endai^
ii^ the peace of the world, and with little or no expense
to England, if we could prevail upon our amiable peat*-
losing compatriots at home, instead of wasting their
enci-gics in useless debates at a " Peace Coogpess," to
exert all their influence in keeping out of the maiket iB
foreign loons required by any aggressive power, who,
without money, cannot move a step, nor maintain mudi
longer such vast standing armies \^ithout iDcurriog i
general bankruptcy. In the meantime steam navigation,
and the rail, tliose great channels of modem ci\-ilizatioa
will gradually work a revolution in the minds and opiniooi
of the ignorant and the prejudiced ; even despotic Russii
will find she cannot withhold from her subjects, as tbej
adv'nnce in ei%ilization, those liberal institutions whidi
thcu- enlightened intelligence will ultimately compel htr
to adopt
Sliakespeare shewed his profound knowledge of
human nature, when he wrote these memorable wordi:
'* There is a tide in the affairs of man, which, if taken
at the flood, leads to fortune." Had the timid monaidi
of Austria possessed a particle of the wisdom of o«r
immortal bard, he had an opportunity afforded him
during the popular Inirst of IB48 of conciUatuig bit
430 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
subjects, and for ever flinging off all dependence on the
autocrat of Russia, by placing himself at the head of
the liberal movement of Germany, Italy, Poland, and
Hungary. Besides he would then have kept inviolate
his sacred oath to maintain the rights and Uberties of
the Hungarian people — a race whose valour had so
often and so signally preserved the Austrian empire firom
nun. Whereas by foUowing the Russian line of policy, he
has no alternative left but to rule by force, and the
difficulty of doing so must be apparent when we remem-
ber the heterogeneous materials, Hungarians, Slavonians,
Italians, and Wallachians, of which the empire is com-
posed, and that not one of these nationalities can be de-
pended upon for their loyalty to the house of Hapsburg.
To Germanize and govern these, who amount to
about thirty millions, he has six millions of Germans,
to whom they are aliens in language, manners, and
customs, and for the most part in religion. Were there
no other obstades than these of antagonistic national
feeling, how delusive must be the hope of ever cement-
ing this discordant mass into a union of interests, so as
to become the feithful subjects of a German niler-^
whose sword has been so often crimsoned in their
blood. TTie armies of one nationality may coerce the
insurrectionary movements of another for a time ; but
should a war take place, or any great poUtical movement
again agitate the inhabitants of Europe, we fear that
Russian bayonets wiD not be found a sufficient support
to uphold the crumbling throne of the house of
Hapsbuig.
■ I
1i
I '■
I
) ,!
/
r
HUNGARY.
431
If a brave united people like the Huogarians^ hife
been able to contend with the most powerful and best
appointed amoies that Europe had seen sidcq the days of
Napoleon, in defence of thdr constitutional privikge%
now that they hare succeeded in gaining to their cause
their former enemies the Slavonians, the next strugg^
may be attended with serious results ; and how number-
less are their wrongs — an outraged people — a dismem*
bered country — a second Poland — ^thdr chiefs massacre^
or wandering in penury and exile in the land of the
stranger. As might be expected, now that a reaction
has taken place in the popular feeling, in every town,
village, or hamlet, throughout the land, whether
inhabited by Hungarian, Slavonian, or Wallachian, a
ay of vengeance and the name of Louis Kossutti
trembles on every lip — their guardian angel, who is to
deliver them from the thraldom of Austrian bureau-
cracy, martial law, multiplied taxes, and all the
harassing chicanery of a host of needy German place-
men, lording it over them in the harsh tones of a
language with which they are unacquainted.
Even the Ban, Jellachich, otherwise a most estimable
man in private life, so recently the hero of the Croatians
is now denoimced by his own countrymen as a traitor ;
and Rajachich, the martial patriarch of the Voiavodina
of the Servians, as a Russian satrap ; while the name of
Gdrgey, who sold his country, has already become a
bye-word and a reproach among all dasses of the
population.
The inhabitants of Western Europe, with all their
432 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
cares and worldly occupations, can form no idea of the
excitement of this people, who, infuriated by recent
disasters, have directed their every thought and eneigy
to the means of again wresting their country from the
grasp of the German stranger. The fair sex even
outvie the men in their enthusiasm, and truly we cannot
but admire the patience of the poor Austrian soldier who
has to endure scoff and taunt from lips as beautiful as
ever smiled on man.
In an the large towns we behold multitudes of
these lovdy Amazons, in the deepest mourning, frd-
fiDing their oath never to cast it off imtil Hungary is
again independent ; others wearing the national colours
in the various articles of their dress, to manifest at the
same time their patriotism and contempt for the rule of
the German, and all are decorated with bracelets and
necklaces made from the coins issued during the
government of Louis Kossuth. Again, not one of these
patriots, whether male or female will now utter a word
of German, although we found that language universally
spoken, during our mit to Hungary in 18479 not only
by the higher classes but by nearly every merchant and
shopkeeper, and in all the inns throughout the country;
This war against the German language, and everything
German, is carried on with equal violence in Pest, the
capital of the Hungarians, as in Agram, the capital of
the Croatians, and indeed in aD the towns through
which we passed in 1830, and the same degree of cx-
dtcment and discontent exists, notwithstanding that the
entire countiy is under martial law, and a hundred and
HUNGARY.
4S
fifty thousand Russians lying on the frontier ready ti
assist the executive in case of neocL
Tliis is precisely what might be expected on the le*
action which followed the war m Hungary, the &te d
e\'ery government that resorts to expedients to presem
it from falling. The Croatians and Servians, who hi
fought so long and bravely by the side of the imperiafisi^
found instead of becoming the lords of the land, wfaick
they had been led to expect as the reward of their
loyalty, that they had exchanged the mild rule of the
Mag}'ar for the harsh despotism and intolerance of the
Austrians, with their vexatious bureaucracy — army of
spies — passports and multiplied taxes. Tlie discontent
thus excited, was adroitly taken advantage of by the
Hungarian party, which led to a sanguinary coDiaoQ
between the executive and the Croatians at Agram, and
the SerNuans and the Wallachians in some districts of
the Voiavodina, and the Bukowina, and Transylvania.
The ill-feeling this created, aided the Himgarian cause by
adding to the number of their allies, and at the same
time increased the difficulty almost to hopelessness of
any real conciliation between the inhabitants of these
proxances and a German ruler.
At any other epoch but the extraordinary one in
which we now live, or under the rule of any other but
that of the bigoted priest-ridden Princes of the house of
Hapsburg, in every age the enemies of ci\il and religious
liberty, time might have the effect of softcmng the
bitter feeling that now exists among the inhabitants of
this distracted country. Even the fierj- Magyar might
VOL. II. P F
434 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
forget in amalgamating vnih the German, that he had
been the denizen of free independent Hungary, but
when we know that the first war, or revolutionary
outburst in France, Germany, Italy, or Poland, will be
suffident to convulse Europe, it cannot be doubted for a
moment that a people like the Hungarians, full of the
robust strength of youth, and already drunk with
military glory, will be the first to grasp the spear. In
fiict the spirit of nationality and a determination to
assert their independence, never rose higher than at
this moment, and now that they have succeeded in
cementing a union with their compatriots, the Slavonians,
like the Normans, and the Saxons of olden time in
Eng^d, which two races, they each respectivdy
resemble in character, combining the fiery bravery of
the one, with the cool intrepidity of the other, it is not
too much to say that they are destined to take a pro-
minent part in the great events which are fiist pre-
paring in those provinces of Austria and European
Turkey. The movement of the inhabitants to secure
to themsdves a political existence, has been going on
with redoubled energy since the intervention of Russia
in the affieurs of Hungary, and the miUtary occupation
of Moldavia and Wallachia ; aided and abetted, as it is
by every man of inteDect and enterprize among these
various races^ and who we may be assured only await a
fiivourable moment to form a confederation of interests
and dedare themsdves indepmdent
The Orientals have a beautiful provei1>, and a true
one, whidi tdk us ** there is a silver limng to eveiy
43S '
cbud," in other words — there is no misfiirtan^ bow^
c^'cr gmt, that has not its bright sid^ excmpEfied id
the present state of the Hungarian people; since the
insurrcctioo which entailed i^xm them so mai^ mis-
fortunes, at least has had the effect (^ remoring a gmk
evil — national picjudioe, and of dispdling the iDusioiis
of Rusrian FtosUvism wUch had taken sodi a deep
hold on the Slavonians of these provinces, and ^Ato in
their ignorance looked forward to the powerful matiomt
of the north as the enlightened legislator I lAo was to
redeem them fivm the slavery of the Hungarians^ the
Germans, and the Turio.
Let us view it in whatever light we may, the inha-
bitants of dvilizetl Europe have abundant reason to be
dissatisfied with the conduct of tfao Austrian Govern-
ment, throughout the whole of its lamentable contest
with the Hungarian nation. As if it were not enough
that Poland was already dismembered — her sons, ezilea
in every country in Europe, and in the madness of
disappointment instigating and uding insuirection wher-
ever they could 6nd an opening, the same unhidi^ iD-
advised Government has now created in dismembend
Hungary, a second Poland — a second rerctutionarj
population, inferior to none in valour, enterprise, and
dctormination, and who we fed certain will never again
dect a Prince of the House of Hapshuig to idgn over
them.
If we take up the map of Europe and lodk at the
geographical JMsition of Hungary, and remember the
inflammable materiab exbting in Poland to the nwth,
V r fl
436 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
and in Italy to the south, it must be admitted if the
Government of the Kaiser had been the paid agent of
the democratic party, it could not more effectually have
aided their cause than by adding Hungary to their
number. Should therefore a revolt take place either in
Poland, Italy, or Hungary, or among the Slavonians of
European Turk^, or the Roumani of Moldavia and
WaOachia, how admirably the insuigents can now com-
municate and assist each other, with the advantage of
havmg inaccessible mountdns as so many points of
gathering or shelter firom danger, together with seas
and navigable rivers by which to receive supplies
from their friends the democrats of the West, and all
animated with the same griefs and the same desire for
vengeance. As a proof of the existence of thb feeling,
have we not already seen during the late war in
Hungary, legions of Poles, Wallachians, and Slavonians
of every tribe and religious sect fighting side by side
with the Hungarians, and whole r^ments of Italians
rcfiiang to measure their swords against men who were
fighting as it were, in their own cause, the great battle
whidi was to emandpate them fi^m the rule of a
foreign despot
Perhaps one of the most interesting observations that
suggests itself to the mind of the traveller, who has been
in the habit of vidting these provinces of Hungaiy and
Austria on the Lower Danube, as we have done at
different periods since our first viut in 1830; is the
progress of opinion — the rapid strides the inhabitants
have made in dvilization, industiy, and intdligence;
HUNG&RT. - 437
this has iKCn ia n great measure owing to the progmi
of steam naTigntion, which has hecn the means ^ intro-
dudog among them intellectual travdlers and merdunts,
vrho have eveiyrcherc disseminated the advanced know-
ledge of the age, and prepared them for some gretf
fundamental change in their religioas and political insti-
tutiotts. A peace of five and thirty }-eais duration Ins
also been highly bvourahle to their enUghtenment ; tbej
have had Insure to look around and compare tbor atuft>
tion with that of the inhabitants of other countries, to
discover the defects in their several governments, and
^ remedies necessary to be applied.
How futile then are all rcstricti%-c measures, intended
to enslave the mind of man, whoi we know th^ only
increase lus desire to become more intimatdy acquainted
with the knowledge denied him. We have seen
Austria fence herself in on every side from all commu-
nication with the mSlization of Europe, prohibit every
work from entering her dominions that treated on
polities or the reformed religion, maintain an army of
spies — Jesuits, and monks of every ord«-, and altog^er
establish in appearance one of the most perfect adminis-
trations of despotic rule on record, until the weD
ordered I well governed Austria! became a by-word
among the nations ; the admiration of every traveller I
Yet of every other state in Europe she was found to be
the most thoroughly demoralized ; her institutions the
most rotten ; and none suffered more from revolution ;
nooe lay nearer the brink of total nnn.
We have another instance of the impossibility of
// II
438 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
preventing the intrusion of liberal principles within the
pale of despotism, in the facility with which the Russian
soldiers, during their late campaign in Hungary, imbibed
ideas and opinions utterly at variance with the senti-
ments and feelings, in which they had been so indus-
triously trained. While the heroic bravery of the
Magyars won the hearts of the Russian officers, the
soul-stirring appeals of Louis Kossuth found their
way into the barrack-room of the common soldier, and
every wdl-informed man in these provinces is fully
aware that it was something more potent than cold
sted, which led to the defection of the traitor Gorgey
at a moment when the Russian troops, acted upon by
dever Slavonian emissaries, were beginning to waver
in the execution of the ungrateful task, which Austria
herself was unable to perform. Independent of this,
there is an enthusiasm attached to the cause of the
man who is fighting for his country, its laws, and dvil
institutions. This was felt by the Rusdan army, who
having in reality, no national cause of quarrd with the
Hungarians saw the ignominy of their dtuation, in being
made the instruments of upholding the rule of an
Austrian deqpot.
If the degraded serf of Russia has already become a
thinking man on the crimsoned fidds of unhappy
Hungary, what must be apprebendons of the ari>itrary
Princes of dvilized Europe, with their vast armies of
dvilized men, influenced by public opinion, and all the
endearing recollections of home and kindred ; and who
may in a fit of enthusiasm, and when least expected
I
HDNOAKT. 439
instead of reprcsung the mardi of dvil and n£gwa
frenlom, aid it with thdr swords. This b the grind
questioD of the day, the secret wluch at thb momeat
paralyzes the movemeDts of evoy cabinet id Continental
Europe ; and howerer mudi wc may hear rf the mardt
of troops, thdr menadng poutiona, the squabblei cf
German Pnnca, the immense miUtaiy f<Ht:e €>( Russia,
the spread of Socialism, and thieals of an invanon of
republican Fianc^ it b nothing more than the acting at
a devn drama, ingeniously constructed to distract the
attention of thrar suhjccts from the (Uscusnon o€ max
serious subjects. Th^ know the^ dare not fire a gun,
which would instantly prove the signal for a genefal
riung in every discontented State in Europe.
"niis state of things cannot endure ; the Govemmeots
of the Conlineot must yield to the influence of the age,
or the weapon of the rcvtJutbmst wifl never rust.
The reaction, that has already taken place in their
policy since the sub^dcnce of the insurrectionaty
tempest of 1848, has bera succeeded by suspicim on
the part of the nilers, and cUssatisfaction in their
subjects. Opinions and ideas have also arisen, not in
existence previous to this time^ as we now find tbe
higher classes of soriety, even in Protestant oouabries,
imbued with the absurd belief that the reformed
religion tends to originate and encourage repubBean
principles, and as a natural consequence muntain that
tiie only possible means of preserving monarchical aDd
aristocratical institutions consist in again {^aong the
masses under the rule of the priests, the sway of the
440 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
confessional In a word, to return to the darkness of
the middle ages.
Unfortunatdy for the peace of the world, these
opinions have had the effect of arraying on one side
despotism and ultra-montanism, and on the other
democracy and the progress of opinion, while Ihe
princes have invoked the aid of the church and inun-
dated thdr States with Jesuits, Monks, and Puseyite
propagandists — to prevent the emancipation of mind,
the liberals have allied themselves with Dcutsch Catho-
licism and Italian Catholicism — ^a rdbrmed creed, which
promises to embrace within its fold the whole of the
middle classes of the population of Germany and Italy,
who in every country constitute the strength, mind, and
energy of a nation.
In vain the Austrian Government, now too feeble to
resort to the old system of sanguinary persecution and
the inquisition, has endeavoured to countermine the
enemy by excluding every member of the German
Reformed Catholic Church from holding any office of
emolument under the Crown. In vain every restrictive
measure is put in force, to prevent the preaching of the
apostles of the new doctrine, converts multiply ; and not
only the inhabitants of towns and dties^ but those of
whole communes and villages have already embraced
the tenets of the new creed. Alike in the religious
tracts of the reformers and in the pulpit, the errors of
the Church of Rome, its priest-craft, and confessional,
are publicly denounced as incompatible with the progress
of the human mind, moraKty, and dvil freedom ; and
BUK6JIKT.
441
Protestant England — ^its industry^ wealth, civfl and idi-
gious liberty, hdd forth as ao ezamj^ of the tnidi d
their assertions.
During my homeward route from Agram, in Crostiii
through part of Carinthia, Styria, Upper Austria, and
Sakburg, 1 was accompanied, as my travdfing oom-
panion, by a divine of the Roman Catbofic Chordii
M. Goetz, prior of the Stift Schotten, in Vienna^ a
very worthy man, as liberal in his rdigious sentimeotSi
as he was intellectual and devoted to his sacred calGi^.
This circumstance afforded me an opportunity of judging
of the state of religious feeling among the inhabitanti
of these provinces, formerly so remarkable for their
attachment to the House of Austria, and to the old
creed.
The change was most remarkable ; (iftcc^i years had
only passed away since I traveDed over these provinces,
and in my work on Germany, alluded to the deba^ng
superstitions of their inhabitants, and the immorality I
witnessed among the thousands of devotees, assembled
to pray at the shrine of the far-finmed Maria Zell, in
Styria. At that period, the Roman Catholic dei^ of
Austria, revelled in all the pomp and pride of sacerdotal
majesty; wherever they appeared, they were almost
worshipped by these simple mountaineers. Innumerable
crucifixes lined the sides of the highway; blessed
Madonnas and relics of saints exercised their miraculous
powers in nearly all the churches ; stations with their
richly decorated temples were seen rising on certain holy
mountains, which some sainted hermit, legend, or
442 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
mirade, bad consecrated, and to which thousands and
tens of thousands of pious pilgrims were accustomed to
repair at stated periods bare-footed, bare-headed, and
some even crawling on their knees to offer up their
devotions.
The altarSy the shrines, and the crucifixes, remain.
Madonnas and relics perform their miracles in obedience
to imperial authority ! but the spirit that attracted the
votaries of former days, is now exchanged for indiffer-
cnce and contempt ; a fact which we heard repeated at
aU the monasteries and ecdesiastical institutions we
visited, the holy fathers deeply deploring the spread of
heresy, democracy, and socialism, among the people. It
is true the inhabitants of isolated mountain villages still
adhere to the superstitions of their fethcrs, but wherever
we find the people mingling with the more intelligent
population of the towns, they had caught the infection ;
and the Propagandists must have been numerous, and
indefatigable in their exertions, to have caused such an
extraordinaiy revolution in the minds of the once be-
nighted inhabitants of these mountain provinces of
Austria, more especially when we remember the short
time that has elapsed since my last visit
It is certain that we have now entered upon an
extraordinaiy epoch, when the mind of man in the
countries of dviUzed Europe has ceased to be influenced
by the traditions and recoQections of the past, when a
sudden, nay, a violent change in the dvil and religious
policy of the nations of Europe may be antidpated,
destined, we hope, to devate man to a higher scale of
•■•J
HUNGARY.
443
p
civilization ; much, however, depends upon the riem
and policy of the ^^ous rulers in Europe who mtj be
said to hold in their hands the destinies of the socbl .
world. Th^ must not, however, be deterred fiftmi
aiding the cause of dvil and religious liberty by taking
their instructions firom the prudent Czar of Russa,
whose policy must be to remove, as fer as possible^
from his own subjects, in their present crude state of
dvilization, the slightest approach towards a libcnl
system of government ; neither must they be frightened
by the representations either of timid conservatives or
dreaming priests, who fancy they see in a people, who
have outstripped them in the march of mind, the
elements of ever}'thing subversive of sodal order ; and
who would oppose, as a barrier to further progress, the
degrading bigotry and superstition of the middk
ages.
We know that Russia is still formidable, owing to
the ignorance of her millions of serfs, and which enaUea
her to assume so menacing an attitude against the
growth of liberal opinions and constitutional govern-
ment in other countries, especially since the sovereigns
of Europe have learned to lean on her for support, and
may be the means of prolonging a few years longer the
existence of the despotic S}'stem. Yet, with the example
of France in the American war of Independence^ we
doubt that the far-seeing Court of St Petersburg
would willingly take a part in any contest against the
civilization of the West, however certain of success,
since its own armies would be exposed to the dangerous
//
444 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
influence of liberal opinionSi and which might lead to
an outbreak on their retxuti home, equally fatal to
despotic rule and serfdom, as that of the Frendi Revo-
lution of '93.
Still no man will venture to predict, even though
they may be strengthened with the support of Russia,
any lengthened existence for the stability of the system
of administration, whidi at this moment governs conti-
nental Europe. In connection with this subject, how
many painful reflections are suggested to the mind of
the traveDer, when he sees the princes of Europe, not-
withstanding the severe lessons they have received,
clinging to the old system of governing, by the sword
and martial-law. When he sees every solemn promise
made in the hour of danger, to i-e-model the institutions
of their respective countries utterly disregarded, and
religious persecution again the order of the day ; when
he sees industrious citizens torn from their fiunilies,
cast into prison, or sent into exile, not for political
crimes, but for professing religious opinions, not in con-
sonance with those estabUshed by the state ; when he
sees hosts of fenatic priests agsun riding rough shod
over the land, as in Austria, here excommunicating
their heretical flocks, and there driving them to churdi,
as if they were a herd of sheep. When we witness all
this, and hear the half-suppressed curses of the unhappy
people, we cannot wonder at the general discontent, nor
that the inteBectual inhabitants of so many countries
having now lost all confidence in their rulers, look for-
ward to the establishment of republics as thdr oofy.
chsnce of frcedoni — u thrir only hope of dc£nni
from the tjmnnj of jvinccs, upoD whom, if we d
judge from thdr ads, no oath b Innding, and i
remua insetmUe to the stcmcst remoostraiices
■dveiK^.
446 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
CHAPTER XXV.
Concludiog Obserraiioiit.
Perhaps no species of writing provokes a greater
share of discussion, and it may be of censure, than a
book of travels. The historian narrates the events of
another age ; the novelist and the poet the creation of
their own mind ; these, of course, cannot excite animad-
version on merely personal grounds ; but the traveller
who takes upon himself, in addition to the task of
describing the scenes and countries that have passed
beneath his view, the arduous undertaking of depict-
ing their social, religious, political, and moral state,
and fearlessly proclaims what he has seen and heard,
is certain to create a host of enemies, both at home
and abroad, among those who may differ from him in
opmioD.
Various works have issued from the British and Con-
tinental press, lauding the Austrian Government and
the progressive system of civilization, that was gradually
elevating its subjects in the social scale, under the
paternal rule of the princes of the House of Hapsburg.
CONCLUDING OBSBRVATIOK&
447
J
The strength of the Austrian empire, the flonriduif
state of its finances, the general iprospentj and content-
ment of the people were proclaimed as truths^ that defied
contradiction ; yet recent events have suflidently proved
the fidlaqr of these statements, and the dislike enter-
tuned by the mass of the population to deqx>tic mki
and whidi must have ^ven way before the foroe of
public opinion, had it not been for the interference of
foreign bayonets.
We are told a nmflar tale of the dvilizing reforms of
the Sultan, the internal tranquillity of his dominions
and the vast array of well-disciplined troops at his
disposal, capable of defending the empire fi!t>m aggres-
sion, no matter whence the attack proceeded.
It is unnecessary to expatiate on the injury society
sustains, when travellers, either from timidity, or a
dread of offending those in power, suppress or mistate
facts when describing the countries they have visited ;
whereas the tourist who, from consdentious motives^
and a desire to alleviate the sufferings of humanity,
records the truth, he becomes at once the fiiend of
social order and of princes, who are rardy made ac-
quainted with the grievances of their subjects, save by
the representations of an independent press — that
powerful corrector of abuses, and safeguard of the best
interests of man.
It b true the reign of the bow-string has ceased in
Turkey, and po-sonal freedom is placed under the pro-
tection of the law such as it is, together with something
like the recognition of ministerial responsibility and the
478 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
abolition of certain abuses which have been succeeded by
more civilizing institutions, a decided improvement on
the barbarism of former days and for which we fed
thankful ; but the Government of the sovereigns of the
Crescent has ever been, and still is, that of the swonL
If we take the trouble of examining the acts and
tendencies of the IMvan since the massacre of the
Janissaries, we shall find that the whole of the energy
of its members has been directed towards the establish-
ment of a military despotism, in conformity with the
maxims and priaciples of the military despots of ci\i-
lized Europe, in which the sole power and authority is
vested in the Sovereign. To accomplish this, every
piastre in the exchequer has been lavished, the demo-
ralising conscription introduced, and all the complicated
machinery of the perfected administration of the
Governments of Russia and Germany. A system which
is gradually reducing the resources of the empire to the
verge of ruin.
The . numerical force of the Turkish army is said to
amount to two hundred and twenty thousand men,
which can be increased in case of emergency to half a
million ; it is true this is a considerable force, but as an
illustration of how little value a large standing army is
to a State \rithout funds, we have seen Omer Pacha so
late as 1850, at a time when the non-reforming Maho-
metans of Bosnia and the unruly mountaineers of
Herzegowina and Upper Moesia were in revolt, re-
maining inactive at Pristina with forty thousand men
for want of money to set them in motion; and the
CONXLUDINO OBSKRYATIOMS.
449
Government to provide the neocssaiy suppfies ohEged
to apply to the little principality of Servia for a Ion,
and besides this, if we may believe rqKMi, to mortgage
the imperial diamonds together with those of its higk
dignitaries, to the Jew and Armenian monc74e&den of
StambouL
The experienced tourist looks for other evideooes of
the regeneration of a country than in the multqpEcatioii
of its armed force, which in time of peace ever incficates
the despotic tendencies of a Government and the
reluctant obedience of its subjects. European Tuifaj,
as we have shown our readers in these vohmies, is now
without roads as in the days of the first reformer, thekie
Sultan Mahmoud, its rivers without bridges, cities, towns,
and fortresses crumbling to ruin, agriculture neglected,
industry and commerce at zero. In addition to afl this,
the Haiduc maintains his wild independence in the
mountains, the non-reforming Mahometan rebels, the
Rayah plots sedition, and in spite of the Tanzimat and the
repeated hatti-sheriffs of the Dii^an, the Moslem oflbaal
stin exercises his petty tyranny and resorts to his oU
mal-practices of extortion, rapadty, and oppression.
The embarrassments of the Ottoman Porte do not
end here; whfle the Osmanli nationality has been
steadily dedining in numbers and increasing in disunion,
the Crescent arrayed against the Crescent in the deadly
encounter of reformists and non-reformists ; the Slavo-
nian of every other nationality in the Turkish Empire—
the most numerous, energetic, and impatient of Moslem
rule, is becoming stronger and more united not only in
450 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURRET.
these provinces but in whatever country we find a
Slavonian community subject to the rule of a stranger.
Besides, every step made by the Slavonian people in
dvilization and intelligence enhances the peril, and their
complete enlightenment must terminate in one of two
results — the extinction of Mussulman rule in this part
of the Turkish Empire, or in its consolidation into a
federal monarchy — Christian for Europe and Mahometan
for Ana.*
With the hope of drawing the attention of the intelli-
gent inhabitants of Western Europe to the present posi-
tion of these interesting provinces, whidi, taken as a
whole, for strength of position and capabilities of defence
by sea and land, may be termed the Gibraltar of Eastern
Europe, we have endeavoured to place in a prominent
.point of view the political importance of this portion of
the Turkish empire.
The danger that would result to the balance of power,
should this important country, so highly favoured by
nature, by any unexpected turn in the chapter of aod-
dents, pass from the sceptre of the enfeebled race of
Othman, to that of the energetic princes of the north,
must be apparent to the most superficial observer. Let
us not, therefore, be found sleeping in fended security,
influenced by the representations of an ignorant aH-sufli-
* That it is practicable to accomplish this, and it wodd hare
been effected if the life of the kte Soltan Mahmoud had been
prolonged, has been more amply discussed in a pamphlet latdy
published by Mr. Colbum, entitled, «* What is to be done with
Tttkcyr
i-^'i
U
! 1
CONXLUDING OBSKRVATIONS.
431
cicnt Mahometan, when the enemy is thundering at the
door.
And now, ha\ing dwelt so long on the physical, pofi-
tical, and social stite of these provinces of Turkey m
Europe; having shewn how far a corrupt, enfeebled
administration has contributed to their ruin, and fearing
that no system of reform introduced by a Mahometan
prince, after such a protracted period of misrule, can
work their redemption, the question suggests itsdf:
•* What is to be done with Turkey T To whidi the
facetious reader might answer, as unceremoniously as if
he had its dainty namesake before him on the dinner-
taUc, *' Cut it up, and eat it !** to which we would rqpty
in a tone half jesting, half serious, ** into how many
There are seven millions of Bulgarians and Servians,
of the Slavonian race, who have the Danube, the Save,
the Adriatic, the Black Sea, and the mountains of
Albania, Macedonia, and Thrace as a boundary. Alto-
gether they would form a most compact respectable
kingdom, and that they are not deficient in the neces-
saiy administrative quaUties, we have an example in the
flourishing principality of modem Servia, a government
which has done more to r^nerate its people by found*
ing seminaries, establishing colleges, constructing roads,
bridges, and public buildings ; encouraging commerce^
agriculture, and industry during the few years of its
existence, than the Turks have done ^ce the com-
mencement of thar rule in these provinces.
But what is to be done with the six hundred thou-
008
438 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
sand Mahometans in Bosnia and Upper Moesia, and
Hcrzcgowina ? Happily, for the success of our theory,
they are also Slavonians of the Sen^ian race, and as we
have already shewn in these volumes, not very stedfiist
in the fiiith of Islamism, nor love and fidelity towards an
OsmanU ruler, and who we feel convinced would join in
the war cry of their Christian brethren, ^ Christos
nekoi ! Christos Bassalevei !'* if they found it to be their
interest
Then we have Albania, containing a population of
about one million six hundred thousand, so admirably
defended by an endrding chain of mountains, which
separates it from the countries inhabited by the Sla-
vonian and Greek nationalities, together with a long line
of coast on the Adriatic for a boundary. Here we have
also a Mahometan population numbering, more or less,
six hundred thousand ; and the remaining million, com^
•
posed of members of the Greek and Latin Churches^
whom we regret to say are by no means the best friends^
As to the Albanian Mussulmans, from what we have
seen and heard while travelling among them, we fed
cerUun that the religious feelings of the majority would
give way to thdr patriotism, if they saw a prospect of
once more becoming a nation.
: * The Greek nationality might easQy be arranged by
rounding the present territory of Modem Greece with
Thessaly, part of Epirus, and Macedonia, where the
-inhabitants are, for the most part, Greek in language^
>n, customs, and manners.
The Andent Thrace with Constantinople, where the
CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS
O&manii may be said to form the mi
inhabitants with their Asiatic posscssit
islands in the Archipelago, would still le
respectable power, and bung more con
united in tlie bonds of one common
tionality, add to its strength. Besides,
forget to mention, in any arrangeraent of
tion, the Sultan, as Imperial X>ord, mig
from these provinces a very considerable i
shape of tribute, as he now does frona tl
of Servia, Moldavia, and Wallachia, a
acquiring revenue, peculiarly suitable to
nature of an OsmanlL
If it were possible to effect such a a
these provinces, it would call into exL
new Christian States with their energcti
and at the same time increase the weal
mcrcial prosperity of civihzed Europe,
channels of commerce into regions hit
only by name.
The Turks, in addition to their igooi
sufficiency, want the energy indispensabli
destined to lead the way in the rcgc
country. Besides, we have numerous exai
ancient and modem history to prove tha
being more consolidated, and under tl
influence and observation of an intelligent
more nipidly in civilization than vast mm
where power is necessarily delegated to sub
too often have no other object than to ace
454 TRAVBLS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
We hope these hints will be maturely considered by
the intelligent reader, and attract the attention of the
enlightened press of England, as we are sincerely
desirous to behold these fine provinces with their
interesting inhabitants preserved from anarchy. We are
also anxious to see averted the probable calamity of a
long and ruinous war respecting thdr territorial posses-
ion ; and we cannot but fed assured that every unpre-
judiced traveQer, who may have wandered in these
provinces, and studied the character and tendencies of
the people, however desirous he may be to maintda
the integrity of the Turkish empire, will confirm our
statements, and agree with us that the Osmanli na-
tionality now reduced in these provinces, according to
the statement of well-informed natives, resident Franks,
and Consuk, to something under a million, and who
endeavour by every contemptible expedient to rule over
a vigorous population of nearly nine millions, differing
from them in race, and nearly so in creed, cannot much
longer maintain their position.
Democrats in the strictest sense of the word, a
oommonwealth of interests would best agree with the
ideas of Government, entertained by the various na-
tionalities inhabiting European Turkey, besides the
mountunous character of the country offers peculiar
fadlities for the formation of separate independent
commumties. It must also not be forgotten, that sudi
a form of administration would serve at the same time
as an antagomst prindple to the despotism of Russia,
for which Government they never have manifested aoy
1
. CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 455
sympathy, however mudi th^ may be drawn to¥rards
it by the tie of a common religion.
If we turn from Turkey to Austria we shall find that
power in a similar position, obhged to maintain its
rule by the sword over a population of HungarianSi
Italians, Poles, Roumani, and Slavonians of every tribe,
numbering about thirty millions, and equally ruined in
its finances; if we saw the Turkish piastre during our
travels in Turkey, reduced in value to a few pence ; we
beheld on our homeward tour through Austria, the
currency of that empire, whether ducats, guldenSi
zwanzigers, or kreutzers, all represented by paper 1
There are some nations to whom despotism in the
hands of a vigorous prudent sovereign of the same race,
may consist with the prosperity and happiness of the
people, but we feel convinced that no system of adminis-
tration, however tolerant, just and liberal, can ev^
reconcile an Italian, Hungarian, or Slavonian, to an
Austrian ruler. The same line of argument may be
applied with even more force to the iU-fatcd Sultan of
Turkey, who in his character of Moslem Prince, how-
ever amiable, just, and clement he may be as a ruler,
can never hope for attachment or sympathy fit>m a
Christian, whatever may be his race or nationality.
There is also another nationality to which we have
not yet alluded, the Roumani, inhabiting the prindpali-
tics of Molda\na, Wallachia, and Transylvania, and
parts of European Turkey, a brave and vigorous people
numbering about ten millions, who since the war in
Hungary and their sufferings during the Russian oocu-
456 TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY.
pation of thdr country, have also commenced to agitate
and unite their scattered members in the bonds of
national union.
That the whole of these various nationaKlies, now
subject to the rule of the Austrian and the Turk wiD,
sooner or later, assert thdr rights as so many indepen-
dent nations, the most sceptical reader must adnut.
A contingency which deserves and ought to occupy the
serious attention of the cabinets of Western Europe,
who having an army of ambassadors and political agents
at th^ command, cannot be ignorant of the state of
feeling in these countries. They must also be aware
that when an outbreak does take place, the dismember-
ment of the Austrian and Turldsh empires can scarcdy
be prevented, since their rulers, as we before observed,
were tti&re no other causes to produce this effect, possess
no ties of race to connect them with the various nation-
alities which fiite has called upon them to govern.
APPENDIX.
1 I
d£CLARAT10N D*iND£PBNDANCB DB L4 NATION
110NGBOI8B.
Nom^ membres de rassembUe national^ repf^Kotaats l^gaiG
de TAat de Hongrie, tout en replafant par noire dedarmtin
aolennelle k Hongrie arec tons ses pays int^ranti^ et toatea ae
parties constituantes, en ses droits naturels, et inalidnablcs» en I
mettant an nombre des ^ats enropcens indcpendants^ et ci
dcdarant devant Dieu et les homines k perfide nuuaon de Ilabs
bourg-Lorraine k tout jamais dechue du tr5ne : nons reoonnaii
sons Tobligation morale de pnblier les motifs de oette d^termina
tion, afin qne tout le monde dvilis^ en ait connaissanoe^ que ee
qui porta k nation bongroise persccuU^ jusqu*iL k mort k fair
cette d-marche, ne fut point nne prcsomption dcmesnr£e» ni I
suite d*une ^uUition r^volutionnaire, maia bien k patience pooaad
jusqu'au bout, et k besoin absolu de se conserrer sot-m^aDe.
n J a trou cents ans, que k nation bongroise ^kra k maiaoi
d*Autriche sur k tr5ne de Ubre cboix, et sur k base de certain
pactea Inkt&anz.
Et ces trois siMes ne furent qu*autant de siedea de sooffranoe
Gontiniidka.
Dien b&ut ce pays de tons les dements du bonheur* et de 1
proapArit^.
458 APPENDIX.
SonAendae de pris de nx mille milles carr^ aboode de
tootes les sources de richesses, qoi font fleurir on pajs, son
peupl^ Gomptant quinze millions d'habitants, porta dans son sein
une jeunesse de force, et une yirilit^ d*action, qui pent senrir de
levier puissant i la liberty et k la civilisation des peuples k Porient
de FEufopey ainsi que de garantie de la paix pour rayenir, comme
il en fnt k lempart par le passj.
Jamsls dynastie ne rc9ut de tAche plus glorieuse, que la nudson
de Habsbourg-LomuQe par rapport k la Hongrie.
EDe n'arait, qu'i ne pas mettre des entraves k son d<^reloppe-
ment nature!, et la Hongrie serait maintenant un des pays les
plus florissants.
EDe n'aTait, qu*iL ne pas lui envier ce qu'elle arut de liberty
moderee, que la nation sut non seulement garder pendant mille
ans de contrarieUSs sans fin, mais qu'elle sut aussi uuir k une
lojaut^ K k un d^Touement sans pareil pour les rois qui la
gouTemaient, et la maison de Habsbourg aurait trouv^ pour bien
long*temps encore dans la nadon bongroise un appui, que rien
n'aurait pn secouer. Mais au lieu de cela» cette meme dynastie,
qui ne pent pas montrer un seul prince, qui aurait cbercb^ sa
force K sa gloire dans la force de la nation, ne suivit de fils en
fils euTers la nation bongroise, que la politique la plus perfide.
EDe cbercba tantAt de Tive force k priver ce pays de son ind^-
.pendance l^ale, et de sa liberty constitutionnelle, afin de Tamal-
gamer en un esdaTage commun avec le reste des prorinces de
Tempire, diresties depuis long-temps de toute liberty ; ou bien si
des fois eDe se vit arr^t& dans cette Toie par la r^stance in*
flexible de la nation, eUe dirigea tons ses efforts k arrdter tons set
progrvs en Pendormant, et en la faisant ainsi senrir de colonic k
ses pronnces h&iSditaires, pour que celles-ci en tiient tout le
profit, et se mettent de m£me en cette mani^re k supporter sans
oser redire toutes les charges, que leur imposa un gouremement
prodigoe, non dans Pint^r£t dc ses peuples, mab dans PintMt
de propager la domination absolue, et d*opprimer toute liberty en
11 arrira plusieurs fois, que la nation hongnnse fikt contrainia
APPENDIX.
459
>■•
en ddfemie de aoi-mtme de se leTcr en ftitnes contre ce tptimt
tjranniqoe, dont chaque pas fut caTwctina6 on de d£otptkm» oa
d'intrigue, on d*attentat k force ouverte ; et qadqne Tictoriauc^
qu*elle combattit dans la defense de son juste droit, elle fat
tonjours si modA^ dans Texercice de ses forces^ si prompte k se
fier k la parole royaler qu*elle ne manqna jamus de d^K»er ses
armes victorieuses dn moment, que ses rois Ini donn^nt Fas*
snrance de ses droits et de ses liberty moyennant un noorcaa
tnutd, on un nouTean serment.
Mais hdas tout noureau traits ne fut qu*un jen, tout nonreaa
serment, qui sortit de la bouche rojal^ ne fut qu*un noureaa
manque de foi ; et la politique de FAutricbe ne changea jamais
pendant trois cents ans k ^tre dirig^ uniquement yers ramSsiio
tissement de Texistence politique de la nation.
En rain odle-ci Tersa son sang pour la muaon de Habsbooig^
Lorraine chaque fois que oelle-ci Aait en danger en Tain
t-elle aux int&^ts de famille ; de oette dynastie plus qu*!
nation n'a jamais sacrifi^ pour ses rois ; en rain onblia-t^dle aTee
une magnonimitd poussde k I'exagg^ration toute ancien grief k
chaque nouTelle promesse ; en Tain nounit-elle dans son sein ane
loyauU^ si indbranlable envcrs ses rois, que jusqnc dans les sonf-
frances inflig<^s par ceux-14 elle se montra comme d'une d^otkn
reHgicuse.
Uhistoire de la domination de la maison de Habsbourg* et
successiTement cclle de Ilabsbourg-Lorraine en Hougrie n^offrit
qu*une suite de serments rompus de fils en fils.
Et la nation hongroise n*en respecta pas moins le lien qm
Tunit k cette dynastie, lien bas^ sur des doubles trait& ; et si
enfin elle se resolut maintenant par Tinstinct de conserration de
8<n-m6roe k d&;larer d^hue du tr6ne et bannie dn pays eette
maison perjure, oe qui seul put la poiisser k cet acte de justicey
ne fut autre, que la certitude, que la maison de Habsbonrg-
Lorraine conspirait sans <^rds et sans reUche k exterminer la
vie politique de la Hongrie, et qu'ainsi elle-mtee ne fut pas
seulement la premiere k dtehirer les liens qui Fattachaient k h
Hongrie, nuds qu*eQe s'en yanta m£me devant FEurope entiiie.
/
460 APPENDIX.
n J m plus d*uQe raiaon qui donnent le droit K un peuple
defftot Dieu et le monde de bannir da tr6ne la dynastie
r^gnante.
Tdlett
Si elle s'allie arec les ennemis da pays, oa avec lea factieaz,
les mcartrien et les Toleun pour opprimer la nation par ce
moyen ; si elle attaqae ses sojetSy qui ne sont point en r^volte
cootre elle, les armes h, la roam, afin de d^truire la constitution
du pajs. sur laquelle elle a jurd, on Texistence politique de la
nation ; si de rire force elle attente k Tinti^t^ territoriale du
pajTS, qu*elle a }vai de maintcnir, en la d<5membrant ; si elle se
aert d*une force armtSe ctrangire pour faire assommer ses propres
snjtts et pour reprimer lenr liberty l^ale ;
Chacune de ces raisons est suffisante en elle-m£me pour qu*une
dynaslie soit privtSe de son trdne. La maison de Habsbourg-
Lorraine arec nn manque de foi sans exemple, commit ii la fois et
en m£me temps, cbacun de ces crimes, et elle les commit de miire
i^fleximiy et avec la r^lution arr^t^ de dctruire Texbtence
pditique de la nation bongrobe, elle les commit accompagnds
de tant de trabisons, de meurtres, de pillages. d*incendies, de
cruautdi^ et d*attentats aux droits des peuples, que le r^t de
ses forfaits doit faire tressaiUir Thnmanit^
Ce qu serrit d*occasion K la maison d*Autricbe k ces procddoi,
.ee furent les lois, qui furent port^ le printemps de Tann^ 1848,
pour la garantie de la constitution du pays. Ces lois avaient
pourtant ressusdt^ le pays par des r^formes radicales dans let
rapports int&ieurs des dtojens, car elles abolirent les prestations
fdodales, et la dime, elles donn^rent le droit d*£tre reprdsent^ li la
di^, d-derant toute aristocratique, h, tout le peuple, sans distino-
tion de langue ou de religion, elles posirent le fondement de
r^aHt^ des droits, et abolirent tout priTil^ ou immunity de
eontribution aux charges de FAat, restituirent la liberty de la
presse restreinte ill^alement, et Aablirent le jury, ponr en
T^rimer les abus; mais bien, qu*en snite de la commotion
gdnfrale des esprits, que proroqua la r^Tolutioo de ft? rier en
France presque toutes les profinces de la monarchic autrichienne
A
APPENDIX. 461
furetit ^^alcment en etat dc n:volation» et la djnastie dans on
ctat d^pounra de souticn ; la nation toujours fiddle des Hongroia
ne pensa meme pas d*exploiter ces circonstances pour eztorqner
quelque nourean droit pour clle-mcme, mais se contcnta d'ctablir
des garanties dans un systcme de gouremement fond^ sur la
rcsponsabilitd miiiistcSricUe pour assurer la liberty et rind^pon-
dance de la nation contre les empi^tements toujours croissants de
ladynastie.
Pourtant cette liberty et cette ind^pendance ainsi garantie ne
Alt point une iuTeniion de nouvelle date, mais bien an droit
ancien^ confinnd par la loi et les serments des rois snocessifs^ qni
d'ailleurs ne cbangea rien aux rapports It^times, dans lesquels
la Hongrie se trouva vis-k-vis de Tempire autiichien.
Car la Hongrie avec la Transjlvanie et toutcs les parties et
provinces j attenantes ne fut jamais amalgamde en nn et seal
corps avec Tempire d'Autricbe, mais elle fut toujoors un pays
libre et ind^pendant alors mcme, qu*aprte avmr accept^ la
sanction pragroatique» cUe arrt^ta le m^me ordre de sncoessioii
pour ses rois. qui exists dans les autrcs provinces soumises 1 la
maison r<%nante.
S*il en faut une preuve, celle-d se trouve dans la loi meme
portde au sujet de la sanction pragmatique^ dans laquelle Tint^
grit<S territonale des pays appartenants k la couronne de Hongrie
ainsi que I'existence de celle-ci par elle-m^me^ son indcpendanoe
et sa constitution, et sa liberty politique sont ezpresscment main-
tenns.
Ce qui sert de preuve ^vidente, que les b^tiers de la couronne
ne devinrent meme apr^s la sanction pragmatique rois l^times
de Hongrie, qu*autant qu*ils entr^rent en trait^ avec la nation an
sujet de leur couronnement, et qu'apr^s avoir jur^ de maintenir
ce traild, ainsi que la constitution et les lois dn pays» ils furent
actuellement couronnds de la couronne de St. Etienne.
Ce pacte de coronation contint invariablement, que de pair
avec Tordre de succession tons les droits et les lois constitution*
nelles de la Hongrie seraient conservees iutactes.
II n*j eut qu*une seule exception panni les successeurs de la
463 AFKNDIX.
lUbahtmr^ ci Lorraine^ qd nMMntireiit sur k trone aprts
la smdiiMi ^ngmalkpft, ci ee lot Joseph II. ^ ne somcril
pomt ee pacle, tjpd ne jim point la constittttkwi, ci ffol mounil
aans tire ecNiroiiii^ ci raA jaatcaMnt ponrqnot fl ne parati point
dans le rai^ dca rob de Hoogrie, ci que tons sesaclcasont iU%ab
et aansTaleor.
Son succcsstw Lfapold 11. ne pot mooter snr le trftoe do
Hoogrie, qa*ensoited*nnpareflpacCedeeonroDnenient; 1 qodle
oecosion la lot 10 de 1790 sanctiomifr en mtoe temps q[Qe le
serment da rai d^dara toot daimnent, q[Qe la Hoogiie est on
pajs libre, ind^pendant poor sa forme de gooTemement* et
sojette iL ancon antre paj% on aacone motre nation, n*ezistanlo
qae d*elle-m&ne, et de sa propre coostitntion, et ne derant par
eons^qoent tire gooTernft^ que d*apr^ ses propres kib et
coutumea.
(Test unsi qoe jora, pareillenient en montant sur le trftoe
mpi^ 1790, le rot Fran9ob 1. qui, apr^ que Fempire romain eat
cess^ ajant pris le titre d'Eropereor de rAutriche^ malgr^ dea
actes iU^gals sans fin, tot cependant toojours asses de retenne
pour reconnaitre ooTertement, que la Hongrie avec ses parties
attenantes ne faisait point partie de rEmjnre d*Aatriclie, comma
il en fat aussi, et est encore s^parf par an cordon de doaanes 1
part.
CTest ainsi enfin, qoe jora en montant sur le trftne Ferdinand
y . celui, lequel sanctionna de libre folont^ les lois port^ Tannje
passfSe par la DiMe de Presbourg, mais Icqud rompit massitAt son
serment et conspirm mTce les autres membres de sa families poor
efFacer la nation hongroiae da nombre dca nations ind^pendantes.
Mais encore cette fois la nation tint religieasemeat sa foi & lo
rojaut^ parjare.
Daus les jours de mars de Fann^ derni^re, quand I'empire
autricbien fut sor le se nil de sa perte^ quand en Italic one perto
suiyit Tautre, quand Tempereur trembla chaque moment, d*Atre
cbass^ de son palais, le Hongroi% mettant de ctU les aTantagea
qu'il aurait pa tirer de tout ced, ne demanda antre diose qoe la
garantie de sa constitution, et ses andens droits, que quatorae
TOU de U maitoa d'Antriche ftrtimt ^alemnit jat^ ^galeiw
mfin h kn nir U rapmualnlit^ mm
garutte de not ucinu droits ct qi
hongrcHs, U nation hongrmte ■'agniu{ut
Duu en jourt d« p&O, camme plnnenn Tma d^ U lojai
da nongrai hutc U maboB d'Anfaricha.
Mail Ic lermnt n'avut pai encore qnitt^ wa ftmea^ qi
tnuaa i^k la perte de la Ilongrie de conent avM aa ftmillc,
■et complicca. amonrenx dn ajrstvmc abaolu. II trama avaat b
conire U Teapoiuabilit^ miniit^rielle, car taut qa'rlle cxiatait,
cabinet de Vienne ne pooTait gahrt nnllifier le gauTenmm
conatitntionnel et ind^peodaut de la Ilongrie.
11 J ent ffl Ilongrie nn t&ge de gouveraement aou le nom
Consril da Lieulenant-GiWral de Hongri^, dont le palatin fill
ehef, et dont ce fnt bien aussi le dcTcnr impost par lea loii^
Teiller^ ce qne celle«-ci ne fussent point riolto i mail pniaqnc
responulnliti! a'^int lous la forme coll^ale, le cabinet ani
chien lot pen i pen d^ber tont poumir dci mains de ce ni
gouTernemenlal, et & n'en fairc qu'nn bnrean de transminion <
d&reta arbitrairei de la eonr sons Yabn d'nn nam offidd.
Cett ainn qu'il arriTa done, qne bien que la Hongrie p
aMait de par la loi nn gonnroeinent indtfpendant, le caluaet
Tienne ne disposa pas roobi de I'ai^ent et dn *ang da peupV
des fini Arangires, qa'3 nibonlonna noa iatMta conimercu
& coax del autre* prorincea, on bien & cenx qui serraient
mieax son ijit^me d'explculation g&^ralc^ Tadut de tont ci
tact arte I'^tranger, et fit dnccndre uotre patria an m^ d*t
colonie autricbienne, juite ce qne I'iDtrodactioa de la forme
gonTememnit ministdriel devait cnip&iher poor ravcur,
faisant nne vMt^ dei drcnti teita sur le papier et dn aemii
pt«t€ par let rois.
Ced et paiwjn'il lui anrait iU dor^rant intpoanble de i
poier arbitrairement de raigent, et da lang da people, ftit
qni porta la maiaon r^gnante josqa'^ la t^solntioo de plongn
464 APPENDIX.
Hongrie dans dfs troubles sanglants, afin de ddchirer en lam-
beaux tous lea liens de toute force int^rieure, et user ensuite de
la force armee pour couper en morceaux le pays saignaut dea
blessures, qu*il sVtait fait k lui-niSme» h, fiuir ainsi par nous
supprimer du nombre des nations Tirantes, et apr^ nous aroir
privd de notre ind<$pendance ne faire de ce pays amorcel^ qu*nne
des parcelles amalgamdes dans le corps aglom^nS de TEmpire
d*Autriche.
Elle commen^a Tez^tion de oe projet, tout en constituant le
minist^re par la nomination du Ban de Croatie, g&i&al autri*
cbien^ qui dut le premier lever T^tendard de la s&lition dans la
Croatie appartenante h, la Couronne de Hongrie.
Ce qui senrit ses desseins. ce fut que sur les frontiires de la
Croatie et de TEsdavonie implant^ de colonies militaires elle
pensa trouver une force militaire toute prete, compost des
liabitants de ces contr^, qui au depit de la constitution furent
ezdns depuis longues anndes de tous les droits civils» et tont
ainsi accoutumcs k la plus stricte discipline militaire, le pouToir
absolu dut trourer en euz la plus prompte assistance.
Et puis le vicux principe de d^unir pour n^ner j avait ezerej
depuis des siMes sa politique barbare sur les passions bumaines^
et arait reussi dans ces contrdes It exaspAer une partie par tous
les plus detcstables mojens jusqu'au plus baut degrd de fureur,
quoique la nation hongroise ne voulut jamais opprimer celles de
Croatie et d'EsclaTonie, mais leur laissa au contraire un fibro
cbamp dans Torganisation de leur gouremement int&ieur, et
tout en partageant avec eux tous ses droits politiques^ leur con-
ctia m£me au d^lU de ses propres droits, certains priyQ^es eC
immunity
Le Ban lera done le boudier au nom de rEmpereur, et oom-
men^a une siklition ourerte contre le rm de Ilongrie, bien que
ces deux ne furent qu'une seule personnel et il poussa les choses
au point de faire dccr^r au nom de la Croatie et de TEsda-
Tonie, qu'ils allaient d^cbirer le lien qui les unissait k la Hongrie
depuis huit siMes, et s*unir 1 I'Empire Autricbien. Ddj4 alon
ce ne fut pas seulement ropinioo publique, mais des donn&a
APPENDIX. 466
poridva, qui iiccusimit roacle du na rArehidnc Lonii, FAr-
chidue Fnua9ob-Ch«rle«, rt rortoat mo spouse F ArdiidDdiaw
Sophie d'£tre U cause premiin it ces monTements. et pniaqae
le Ban en se lerant, se Knit da pr&exte de u fid^it^ » rai,
le mioistire hongrois pris cdui-d de donocr nnc d^danHoa
BDlennelle et Urer ains son Dom et cdiu dc ■> fiuniUe de la
tiche, qui a' J attacbiit.-
Dana cea tempi lea affairea d'ltalie aUaient mal, et on d'om
ouTertement m d^aaqner. Par continent le rm d&lan le Baa
et set fidilea factienx coapablea de l^w-majeat^ et rebeDea par
OQ ordre da 16 Jiun, 1848. Mail tandii qn'oa donna tette
diSclaradoD, on combb de gifteea & fat conr le (aetieox «t tea
compagDona, et on lei aida f argent, de canoo^ de hualM et d«
monitions.
La nation hongroiie ic fiant k la parole royale, ne tarda paa It
attaquer le facticux dans ion n^ mSme, mail voolant jpargner
le aang. I'il ^tait possible, eDe ae oontenta d'abord de inesarea de
repreaiioa.
BientAt lea habitanti Serbes de la partie Snd-ett de la Hoi^;ric^
excttifi de la maniSre meme se siirent k a'insurger.
Le roi dMara i!galeinent qne c'Aait une rebellion ; fl lea aida
tout de mfine corome les autres d*argent, d'armea, et aes propria
officiera et fonctionnaires rassemblcs dana la Serbie roisine, dea
bordes de brigandi Serbes, ponr aider lea rebellea Kasdena, se
mirent & leur tete, ponr assasMoer les tranqnila h^tants boa-
grois ct allemands, et on confia la direction supreme de cettc
insurrection combing dea Croatei et dea Serbes dana les maina
du chef del rcbcIlea Croatea.
Cette insurrection fut I'occasion de telles abominationa, que le
cccur se retoume arec borreur en les coiitemplant. On lua lea
babitanla pariGquea avcc un roffineracnt de craant^ et de
torture, dcs villes entiercs fleurissantea furent durait^ le
Uongrois qui a'cchappa dcs maina de I'assassin, dataller mendier
BOD pain Jrqs sa praprc patrie, et la partie la ptos abmdante da
pays fut changiSc en une rall^ de dcniL
Lc peuple hongruis fnt contraint i se defcndie. utais le Cabioet
VOL. II.' U U
466 APPENDIX.
aulrichicn aTait cu soin pnUablcroent, d'envojer nne grande
parUe de nos troupes en Italie» pour se battre contre Ics Lom-
liards-Vciutiens. et ne les liussa point retourner de U bien que
notre palrie mcme saignait elle-mdme de mille blessures.
Le Teste des troupes hongroises se trouvait en plus grande
partie dans les provinces autrichienneSy bien que contre la loi du
pays, au lieu que ches nous c'^taient la plupart des soldats
autridiiens qui furent gamisonn&» et qui senrirent plutdt de
soutien aux factieux. que pour maintenir la paix k rint^rieur. —
Nous sollidtftmes continuellement, que ces troupes fussent
^hangees contre ceUes des ndtres, qui se trour^rent dans les
provinces Mr^itaires. — ^Nous essayftmes ou de refus, ou tons les
retards possibles. — Et ceux de nos braves, qui apprenant le
danger de la patrie, s'empress^rent ii j retourner en masse au
peril de leur vie» Hkrent traquds, et quand des fois ils durent dder
k la force supdrieure» non seulement on les d&arma, mais on les
punit de mort, puisqu*ils avaient vonlu dtfcndre leur patrie contre
k meurtre, et la rdvolte. —
Le ministto hongrois sollicita le nn de donner Tinstruction k
Farm^, et aux commandants des forteresses. qu*ils avaient 1
observer la constitution» et obfir an ministire. Get ordre fut
eflTectivement envoy^ au palatin, et lieutenant-g&<Sral afin d*^re
drcul^ partout. — Les lettres furent Mtes, et miset It la poste,
mau le neveu du roi, son lieutenant-g6i^ral n*eut pas boute de
discendre jusqu'k faire escamoter k la poste ces ordres oontre-
sign& par les ministres, qu*on trouva plus tard parmi to
papiersy apr^ qu*il eut indignement abandonn^ le pays.
Le Ban factieux mena^a le littoral de la Ilongrie ; le gouveme-
ment du pays envoya de concert avec le roi une force Mtmit vera
Fiume par la Styrie ; — on forfa ces troupes cbemin faisant k se
rendre en Italic, et les insurg& s'emparirent de Fiume, et Tar-
rachirent k la Hongrie*
Et vmlk que le cabinet de Vienne d&:lara cet infame pi^ une
m^risc^ oorome oe fnt une m^rise probablement aussi, que la
poudre, le canon, Targent, et les fusils, dont il dota les rebelles
Croates.^-Ceux-ci, ainti que les commandants militaires des for-
I
4
APPENDIX.
467
teretMi rcforent raTu. qa'en cas d*ordre da roi, qui Wraak
leur oonduite, oa les encourageait k Tobassance aa miiiist^re, fls
ii*cn preunent poiDt notice, et ne se tienneDt qa*aux ordres dm
ministire autrichien. — Fut-il jamais jeu plaa dAestable, qa*oa
jooa arec une nation ?—
La nation hongroise ainsi d^poonroe d*argent» d*aniie% de
tronpesy non prepaid k la Affcvae, prise dans on filet d'intngiic^
et de trahison sjst^matiquey se tronra oUlig& de se ddfendre
avec des Tolontaires des gardes natiooaux» dcs levies de people
mal, on pas annees du tout, et aid& seulement par ee qui Aail
rest^ de troupes hongroises dans le pajs» eUe eat poartani
toujours le dessus k champ oavert, mab die fiit incapable de
▼aincre d*un coup Tiosurrection combin& des Rasdens^ des
ScrbeSp des CroateSp et des troupes fnmti^ies, d'aatant moins
que celles-d eurent le temps de se fortifier derri^ des trancli&%
grftces aux machinations de quelques-uns de nos propres olBdera,
et g^n^raux rendus k Tabsolutisme. —
II fsllut penser k order de nouTelles forces. — Le roi, qui fdgnift
toujours encore odder aux reclamations l^times, qa*il ne pouTadt
eviter d*dcouter, assemblala Di^te pour le 2 Juillet, 1848, et j
somma les reprdsentants de la nation ^ penser aux mojens de
Toincre la sedition serbe-croate» et k retabtir la paix en dedans
moyennant une force arm&, et les ressources pdcuniaires ndoet-
saires k ce but ; — en meme temps il dddara de rechef en son
propre nom, et celui de toute sa famille rojale, qu*il condamnait
de la mani^rc la plus solennelle TinsurrecUon croate, et la r6bel*
lion des Serbes. — ,
La Diete prit ses mesures, — Elle Tota 200,000 hommes, et
42 millions de florins* et soumit son projet de loi k la sanction
royale, et pria en mcme temps le roi avec les expressions de la
plus grande lojauU% qui dtait justement alors enfui de Vienne 1
Insbruck, il vint k Bude pour apaiser la rdvolte par sa prdsenoe^
et s*en remettre k la fiddlitd des Hongrois pour la defense de sa
personne, et de son trdne contre tout p6ril. — Mais ce fut en Tunl
II arriva memo, que dans cette epoque le general Radecxky Tint
de remporter une victoire en Italic. — Enfiee de ce suoc^ la
H H 3
/
468 APPENDIX.
tnaiaon Habsbonrg-Lorrainc crut le temps renu poar lever le
masque oompl^ement, et d^ ce moment elle parut snr la seine,
prenant part ouTertement dans Foppresion de ce malheoreux pajt
saignant de guerre dvile.
Le Ban, le facUeux, d&lare tel par le roi lui-m6me, ne fut
plus dordnavant, que le ** cber" et *' fidcle Ban," il recueillit des
doges pour son insurrection, et fut encouragd k la continuer. —
De semblables caresses furent prodiguiSes aux <%orgeurs serbes,
qui se baignaient dans le sang des n6tres.
Ce fut le signal sur lequel le Ban k Taide de ses troupes ras-
semblto an nom du roi, passa la Drare, tout en pillant, et
devastant le pays. Ce qu*il j avait de troupes autricbiennes»
s'assoda la plupart K lui; — les commandants des forteresses
d'EszA, d*Arad, Temesv^r, Gyulafej&rir ainsi que les autres
commandants en cbef abandonn^rent traitreusement la cause de
la patrie. — Dans la Hongrie sup^rieure ce fut un pr^tre slavey
^tri au rang de Colonel autrichien par le roi, qui derant les
jeux de cclui-ci avait enr6U K Vienne m^e des pillards bo-
h^es» qui j fit invaaon; et voili que le chef des rebelles
croates avan^a k travers le pays sans diSense vers la capitale
mSme, se ber^ant de la pr&omption, que Tarmfc bongroise n*08erm
pas se battre contie luL
La Diite eut encore foi dans le serment du roi, et le supplia
de mettre fin k cette guerre. Elle eut pour rdponse un appel 1
ccrtaine note du ministire autricbien, et il fut d&lar^, qu*oa
ctait rdsolu k priver le gouvemement de la nation libre, et ind^*
pendants bongroise de la direction des affaires des finances, da
commerce, et de la guerre ; — et en m^me temps le roi refnsa son
consentement aux lois faites k I'l^ard des soldats, et des frab de
guerre, lois que lui-m£me avait provoqu&i.-^
Sur cela le ministire r&igna. — Le premier mimstre appeU k
composer un noureau miniature, proposa les membres qui de-
vaient le former, mais ils ne furent point sanctionnds. — ^La Diite
devant sanver la patrie, ordonna en attendant la lev^ des troopcs^
et d*argent n^oessaire.
La nation obSt avcc la plus grande promptitude. Lei repr^
AFFEHDiX. 469
wntuiti de U natioD aotnmtrent en mSnie ten^ le nevn da
rot, Pilatin, ct LieuUiuuit-gikt^ral do Bojaame d'albr, cotniiM
c'etait Hn dertnr, TcjoindR raim& contre In iiiiiu2&.
n J alk en effet en difUUnt In plus bcDn phnan. et *—<-vA
Era par m* pronwun max p!iu belle* c^Axnca. — Mus i peine
rat-il fehang^ qmdqnn mc»Mgn iTec in tajttjit dm Ban am
moment mCnM o& Ton attefidait le dpial d'nne J^t^Hlr. 3
di^aerU tnttmuemrat le cwnp ra Kcrct, et k'&igna dn pi^S
Mu t'uT^tcr, ct en toots bite.
Mai* panni m Merits oo trouTa le plan tram^ antMntremen^
comment il fallait attaqner la Hongrie de nenT eAt^ IL la tatM,
HTOir la St^ii^ rAatridw, la Morane, la SOfn^ la GalEci^ H
la TranajlTame. £t om tronTa panni In coneqwadanen laiiiri
dn minUtre de gnerre antrichien comment on arah doon^ dei
initrnctiana anz commandanta dei prorincn mtonrantn la Hob-
grie, de faire irruptiaQ en Hongrie, et d'aider In insarg£i ca
op6«nt de concert avee enz.—
Et en effet I'lnTaaion M fit de nenf cAt£i, pendant qne dana
rint^rieur de notre patrie la gncne drile fit an rangn entre let
populations exdten. — Parmi tost pourtant, c'eit I'agreason.
<|u'oD fit >ur la Tranajlrani^ qui fut la plui fatale ; — car par tt
on chercha k diuoudre de noaTnn, par dn mojeni Tiolent^
I'union compute de la Tnuu^lvanie avce la Ilougric, objet oonnn
de Bollicitatiou depuis 1791; et ivalis^ enfinrannjepanded'abord
par le ducret port^ par la Diite de Hongrie, plus tard par cdle
de TranijlTanie elle-mfme, unctiono^ par la maiion r^gnant^ ct
extoit^ effectiTement & I'occasion de la DiHe de 1848 de awte,
que tool In difputifa de toute la Tranajlvauie, j comprii In
Saxona, t'y r^unirent, et pamient k Pest le 2 JniOet de cetta
Ce qui est ploi, en Transylranie In perfidea diefi antrichiena
ne ae contentircot point de gncrroyer avec In tronpn r^oHim {
maia toutenus par In Saxons factieux, ila r^roltirent In popula-
tions valtaqun, lesquelln le levant cootre la liberty qni lenr fvt
donn& par In Itua, ^rgfavnt, et martyrisirent arte nn vaad^
liame dn plus barbam In Iialutana boogrois sans dtfena^ mm
4 70 APPENDIX.
mroir pitU ni de sexc, ni d*Age» et incendi^rent, ct pill^rent les
ynUn, et les vinaget les plus ftcurissantSy panni eux N. Enjed, le
n^ de la sdence en TransjlTanie.
Mab la nation hongroise entoar& de tant de troluson, de
Tiolenoe* et de pi^ril, qnoique sans armes et sans prcparatifsy ne
ddsesp^ra pas snr son STenir.
Elle accrAt ses forces des Tolontaires, et des masses du peuple,
et suppl^udt le ddfant de Texercice par Tentbonsiasnie pius^ dans
U justice de notre cause, elle mii en d^route le camp croate, et
apr^ que le chef de cette Bimie employa la tri^re obtenue apris
la bataille ^ commettre un noureau manque de parole en se
d&obaut k I'abri de la nuit, elle le poursuivit, et le chassa com-
pletement du pays. — Une autre partie de Tarm^ de celui-ci,
eonsistante de plus de 10.000 bommes, fut cntour^, et fait
piisonui^re en commen9ant de leur chef jusqu*au dernier homme.
La troupe principale fuit xers Vienne apr^ sa defute, et le roi
Ferdinand V. alia si loin dans Foubli de ses devoirs, qu'il nomma
ee chef de rebelles vaincu. et expuls4 reprdsentant de la Bojmut^
arec plein pouvoir. £n m£me temps, et en ddpit des lob de
1849» qui ne permettent de dissoudre la Di^te, que moyennant la
oontresignature minist^rielle et m^e munie de celle-ci, iinique>-
ment apr^ avoir r^ld le budget de Vannee procbaine* il d&lam
celle-lk dissoute, suspendit la constitution et toutcs les autorit^
et cours de justice oonstitutionncUes, et pla^a le pays cutier sous
la loi militaire, mcttant ^-ie, fortune, bonneur, famille des citoyent
k la merd d*un facUenx brutalt qui avMt d^ja port^ sa main
t^meraire sur le pays, la constitution et la loL
Mab la maison parjure d*Autricbe ne s*arreta pas m^me k
cet acte audacieu3U
Elle accueillit le Bon rebelled et le mit sous Tc^de de raruMSe,
qui alors assi^geait Tienne, et aprcs avoir pris d*assaut et recoo-
qnb Yienne avec cos forces nfunies, elle les fit conduire par Ini
contre la Hongrie, dans le but de sonmettre <%alement ce pays.
La nation hongroise, toujours incbraulable dans sa loyaut^
envoya uu parlementaire k Tcnnemi. Son parlementaire fat
8aisi» jetd en prison, toutes les r&jamations k cet ^gard ne farent.
APPENDIX.
pu mCraei connd^r^o digue* de n^pome,
mcntfut da gibct, quiconque oserait u 1
pttiie iimocento.
AviDt pouitant que le corps d'anu^
Hougrie, il t'ert cxvcut^ nne r^olutum de
mCme d'Olmuts. Perdiniuid V. rSugnft
■ouilM de tint de nng, ct de patiorc, c
cadet Fnii9i)u>Charie*, qm r^tignat <gale
ccuiou, ce fut le fiU de cdui-d le jeui
Joseph, qni le fait procUmer Emperenr
Hongrie.
ilaia il n'eit permls. k qui que cc soit
const itutionnel de la Hongrie par aneune esf
sans le consentement de la nation; ct i
d(!urait li pen d'aller an-d^ d'nne paix hi
le maintien de sea loii, que n Van conden
consentement i ce changement de trAoe |
que le jeune prince offHt de fttta le m
encore aiora la nation n'mnrait pas taid<
comrae roi, lur la base dei traits diplomali
couronner de la Couronne de St. Etieone,
sa main dans le sang de ses penplea.
Mais Ini rejettant (out ce qui est sacrc )
bDmmes, ne 6t non seulement aucun avam
d(.'pouiIla au controire de tout ce qn'il j
L^an dans le cmur d'un jeune bomme; aoi
que le cri fier, qu'il allait IVpJe k la main
laquelle lui — le rebelle — cut I'audace de st
rebelte, et qu'il consid^rait la tiche de sa
lois, et rinddpendauce de ce pajl dalani
I'nmatgamer arec l' empire d'Autridie.
Et BulBQt cju'il a pu, i] tint sa parole
formidable. II dtkihnina sur la HoDgrie i
les ordres de son Licutenant-Gifncnil pleni
Windiscbgriili, et en mume temps d'autr
querent le pays du c6l« de la Gallide el d<
473 APPENDIX.
bongrcnse se debattit oontre la mort, qui lui ^tait jaree, mia en
fiice de tant d*eiiiieinis» et d&hirce dans rint^rieur, par let
Tandalcs insurgcs arant de ponroir dcrelopper toute sa force, elle
fat d'abord contrainte k reculer, de peiir d'exposer la capitale
anx malhenrs d*im assant* comme Prague et Vienne TaTaient
sabi, et afin de ne point joner sur une carte le dcstin d'nne nation,
digne d*nn meilleur sort, mab mal preparee, on abandonna la
capitale, et en transfcrant an commencement de Janvier la DiMe
et le gonTemement nationale k Debrecan, ce fut en partie I'espmr
da sccoors d*un Dieu juste, mab pas moins la conviction, qne
la force de la nation ne sera point brisee par \k, qa*on vida sa
eapitak.
Et, Dieu merci, elle ne le fut pmnt.
Tout de m^me on essaja encore alors nn accommodement
padfiqne, on cnvoja une d<^patation an chef de Tarm^fe autri-
ciiienne, mab on ne trouva que de la moigue, avec laqudle il
rqeta non seulement toute n^godation, mab eut reffronterie de
demander k la nation, quelle se somnii d, /irt Mat condituM !
n arreta les ddpnt^ qui voulurent se rendre k Olmuts, les fit
letenir, et alia jusqa*i^ jeter en prison nn d*eux le d-devant
premier ministre. Ensuite il occnpa la ville abandonn^ det
ndtres, s'y mit k tyranniser la Mche da bourreau en mam, fit en
partie assassiner nos prisonniers de gaerre, en partie les jeter en
prison, oik ik essuj^rcnt tons les traitements inbnmains, furent
1aiss& sans Tivres on en partie forods k servir dans les troupes de
ritalie.
Et enfin, pour qu'il ne manqnat rien, poor eombler la mesore
des forfaits de la muson d'Autriche, apr^ qu*ella fut battoe en
Transylvanie par nos braves soldats, elle a*adrcssa It rEmpeieor
de Russie pour en obtenir du secours^ et cTest ainn, qu'il aniva
effectivement, qu*en d^pit des protestations de la Haute-P6rtc^ ci
des representations faites k cet ^rd de la part des consnb des
pmssances dtrang^res It Bukarest, fonillant anx pieds tout drcnt
intemational, des troupes russes furent introduites de la voinne
Tfalacbie en TrantjlvaDie» pour aider k mastacrer les Hongrob.
Et enfin, poor assurer les fruits de tant d*attentats, Fran^ms*
AFPEHDIX. 473
Jocqib. qui R U pT^aomptioB de M nommcr ni ie Hoogrie,
public an mrprf-^* de la date dn 4 ct 6 de Uan^ ot 3 pionooee
oorettemcnt. qn^O njre la nation hongraue dn rang dn natkm, il
partage aon tenUmre ca doq partki : la Traniyham^ la Craatii^
l*E*d«nnie ; fl a^pare Flmne ct le littonl boi^nai de la Hod-
grie; 3 AaUit one pnmnce particnliireKKulenomde Wigwodi^
qn'3 amdie dn entraOlei de la Hongri^ ct qn*3 fanae muqiie-
ment en partage dea ^rgnm aerbea, ct prirant en gCn6al W
paja cntier de n pontion, de ion md^>endance Vgjtimc. ct
de H« existeoee comme td, il I'amalgaine ane Tempin antii-
diien.
Fideles am faita luatoriqnra, noni avooi expend ia la longs*
Kiic doa attmtata Miu excmple, doat la nuueon Ilababoai^
LoTTune I'eat imdoe conpable, et praroqnant sor le jagemcnt de
Ken toot-puitnuit, et Topinion pnbliqae da monde estier nooa
d&laron>, qa'Q n*y a plu id ancnn lien, ni poasilnEtJ anennc ds
PKification arec cette dfoaUie traitrenae, et nona le devont k la
loi dinnc. nona le deroai it notre patrie, nou le deront aa droit,
et k la morale, k rboniienr, i I'EnrDpe, et aox intMt* dc llin-
manit^ et de la nTilisation, qu'en baniuant 1 toat jamui cette
djnutie ncfaste du trAtw de la Hongrie, uona rabandannoDs aa
jngtment de Dieo, et i rabomination de Topinioa publiqoe, dc la
morale, et de rbonnenr.
£t c'est ce que noui dralaroiu, dani le lentinient de la force
iadntmctible d'une nation, )b qui on a inSig^ lea phis mortellca
dea injnrca. — TotUl qn'3 n'y a que trma nioia. qn'nn ennenu
perfide a occup^ la capitale de notre paya. et mrpiii k FimproTiite
la nation confiante j mail la nation tronra dea foreca dana le
combat mortel lui-memc, et se coDvainqoit, qa'dle nnra aanrcr
la patrie.
Pendant cei troii moii rennemi nmrpateur aTCc tonte a force
ne pnt ■'assn>vr ud ponce de terrain ; an contraire 0 en perdk
tout ce qu'il arait ocrap^ et il raauy at rerera aprH rerera. II j
a Irois moil, que nous fllmei refoul^ sor la Tbeis^ et rmU, qne
d^i nu armei rictariensei ont reeonquia la TranfjlTanic, repria
Klanaenbnr^ Ilemianatadt, Knnstadt; dispen^ one portie de
474 APPENDIX.
Fannee aatrichicnne jusque dans la BukoTine^ tandb qa*une autre
partie Ics d^roatant aussi bien que les troupes anxiliaires de la
Russie^ en purifi^rent la Transjlvanie jusqu an dernier liomme,
et les forc^rent de cberchcr un refuge en Walachie.
La Hongrie sup^ieure est en grande partie ddi?r& de
TennemL
La rebellion des Serbes est rompue ; leurs places fortes;, Ss.
Tam^ et les trancb^ des Ronuuns pris d*assaut, K tout le pajt
entre le Theisx et le Danube conquis, tout le Comitat de Bicska
jusqu'^ Tltel rdcup^r^ par la nation.
Mais le gi^ndral-en-chef lui-m£me de la paijure maison de
Habsboufg oree toutes ses forces concentrte est battu dans dnq
batailles cons&rutires, et repouss^ jusqu*au Danube^ en parti m^me
an-deUL
£t Toilk pourquoi, en suite de tout ceci» en appelant k la
justice ^temelle de Dieu et au jugement du monde dTilia^ et en
nous appuyant sur le droit naturel de notre nation, ainsi que but
sa force anode, qu*elle m prouvd de fait au miliea de taut de
calamity et de souffrances, de par Tobligation, que chaque nation
m de se ddfendre et de se oonsenrer soi-m^me, nous dddarons et
ordonnons par ceci an nom de In nation, que nous reprdsentons
l^galement ce qui suit :
1. La Hongrie avec la TransjWanie l^alement nnie k eUe, et
aTCC toutes ses parties inU^rantes en compleze se dddare en Aat
Europden autonome et ind^udant, ainsi que rmt^;ritd terri*
tortale complete de cet fitat indirisible et inyiolable.
2. La maison de Habsbourg- Lorraine s'dtant rendue eoupsble
de trabison, de paijure, et d'appel auz amies centre la nation,
ajant poussd Taudace jusqu'li essayer Tamorcdlenient de Yukti-
gritd territoriale du pays, dVn arracber la Transylranie, la
Croatie^ TEsclaTonie, Fiume, et le littoral, ainsi que d*en an&ntir
Tesistence politique et autonome les armes k la main, et d*df0-
qncr k ce but la force armde d*nne autre nation, pour mieuz
massacrer la nation bongroise, ajant ainsi de ses propres mains
ddchirc la sanction pragmatique, autant que ce lien gitatni, qui
existait eutre elle et la Hongrie sur la base de traitds et pactes
APFBNDIX. 473
aUigkUMres At cM et d'sntm (InUt&Mu) eette musoa eoit
fni pMJure it lUbtbonrg, et plm Unl de IlababcKiTg-Lorraae
est pu ced, et mi nom de U natioo conadMe k toot jannk
d^dine dn trAoc^ exdne de k domiiwtioD, diveatie de tooB In
titm ct iiiMgnw appwtenutts k k Cooroime de 11<xigrie, pmji
de tool la droita politique*, ct baanie k junua da tcnibiira dt
cet Aat.
Commc aua eDe est de per cet sctc et an Dom de k natiDB
iolennenenicnt d^darde; d^oe dn trftoe, exdne^ et baanie li
tout jamaia.
3. hm HtH^irie en rentnnt ainn d'aprta aet dnita natnrda «t
inalicnables dans k famiUe det iuta eonp^ena comnw on Ast
antoDome et iod^pendant, dfckrc ca mtmt temp^ par rapport
aux Aata, qui etaient antrcfoia arec die loiia one ct k ntCne
maisoQ r^gnante, qn'elle a la rolont^ d'^tablir et de continiier k
paix a*ec enx, ct de tier dea rapports de bon roinna^ aina
qu'il est son dcrir de s'assoder i tontes les antres natioiis, par
des tiait^ d'allunce.
4. L'assemUte nationak airfitera sur tous les pwnts k sfi-
t^e de gauvenement i itablir pour VaTcuir, jusqne k poortaut
que ce sj^ttime suit £ub1i sur les prindpes fondamentaks d-
dcsstts eipriiD^ le pajs sera gourem^ dans toute I'^tendoe da
son complexe par Lomt Kotntk nomm^ gouTcmeiir pT^sideot
de k proclamation gifufral, et du conwDtcment unaninie de tona
les membrcs de I'assemblde natiouale de concert arec lea minia-
tres, qu'il s'attriburra sous sa propre reaponsabilil^ Ct k Icor
lui ainsi qu'eux Aant oblig^ i rendre compte de leurs actiona &
k nation.
Et void que nous faisons part k tout le moude dnliai de
notre resolution, prise dans la ferroe conviction, qu'ellcs rccerraot
k natbn hongroise dans le rang des nstioos indcpendanlea, rt
aulonomes, comme une de leurs sccurs, avec toute Tamititf et k
biruvcillance, Ircquellcs la nation liongroise le»ir offre en rctoor
par notre Tni.
Et noiu le faisons savoir k tous les habitants de k Hongrie, da
la Traua>-lTauie uuie. ct de sea partiea ct proTinces int^nutci.
476 APPENDIX.
arec la d^laration que toutes lea aatorit^ eommimeSy idUes,
districts, comitatSy et citojens, en un mot tons lei indiTidua et
corps, ou corporations sont par ceci non seulement absons par-
faitement et compl^tement de toute fidelity et de tons les liens
d'ob^ssance enrers la maison de Habsbonrg, et ensnite Habs-
bonrg-Lorraine» d&bne du tr6ne; mais qn'Hs en sont m^me
probibdsy an nom de la nation, et qne tont celui se rend coupable
dn crime de haute trabison, qui o^rait soutenir soit par son
conseil, soit par des futs ou des parolea ancnn membre de la
maison d&ignce, qui cbercberait par quelque mojen 2i rdusnrper
le pouToir royal en Hongiie.
En chargeant le gouremement de I'^tat de Hongrie de faire
entrer en vigucur et de publicr nos resolutions ci-dessns, nous Tin*
restisons de tout pouToir et autorit^ l^ale n&essaire k ce but ;
et nons obligeons an nom de la nation tout dtojen dn pays 2i
I'ob&sance la plus stricte 2i tons leurs ordres et dispositions rda-
tives.
De FassembkSe nationale tenne k Debrecnn le 19 April, 1849.
Les magnats et repr&entants de la natacm.
B. PERENTI ZSIGMOND,
2iid Pr^iideBt de la Chanlm des Magnatt.
ALMASST PAU
Pr^ftident de la MaitOB det R^r^tentaiitt.
SZAC8VAT IMBE;
Notdra.
Il
APPENDIX.
II.
477
^
«
t
i
/
PROTESTATION SOLENNELLE DB LA NATION HONGBOISB
CONTRB L'INTERVENTION RUSSS.
La nation hongroise assaillie dans Tenenoe mime it son
existence politique n*en Tainquit pas mmns avec Faide du IKea
juste et tout-puissant la r^olte, qu'en d^pit de toute loi eteonsti-
tution la maison paijure, qui j r^gnait proToqua 2i force des mente
les plus insidieuses, et des actes de violenoe les plus atroces.
La nation rdussit 2i chasser jusqu'aux fronti^res da pays les
troupes autrichiennes lanc&s sur elle pour j Eraser la liberty et
I'ind^pendanoe.
Et la nation d*un commun accord, et emportc par on enthoa-
siasme g^n^ral en usant de son droit inalidnable» et dans le deroir
de se conserrcr soi-mcme prononfa k tout jamais la maisoo de
Habsbourg-Lorraine bannie da trftne, cette maison» qui 8*est
tAcbde soi-mSme de crimes ^pourantables et de paijores — »t
uombre.
Jamais nation ne se battit pour une cause plus juste.
Jamais maison r^naute ne fut punie k plus juste titre.
Jamais nation n'avait de droit mieux fond^ 2i attcndre, qu*on
laisserait son gouvemement national fond^ sur Taccord unanime
du peuple gu<^rir en repos les nombreuses blessures, dont le tyran
d^chu en avait ddchir^ le sien.
£t Toila, que sans ancune d<Sclaration de guerre, des corps
arm6s de russes se montrent en masse sur le territoire roisin de
la Gallicie et de Cracovie, mena^ant la Uongrie d'invaaion an
premier appel des Habsbourgs.
Tous les preparatifs, toutes les nouvelles s*aocordent k prourer,
que la maison de Uabsbourg-Lorraine non moins despotc^ que
defaillante par ses proprcs fautes, s*efforce par son alliance aree la
puissance russe, k rclever son trune abattu sur la tombe da
peuple hongrois.
La nation bongroise est r^solue Ik rcsister encore k cette
attaque.
478 APPENDIX.
Plutdt elle Tenera sa derni^re goutte de sang* que de janudt
plus reconnoitre son nieurtrier pour son mattre*
£n pronon^ant cette resolution ferme et indbranlable dans la
conviction de la justesse de sa causey c'est arec nne foi religleose
qu*elle croit dans la Yictoire, mats en m^me temps elle se crie
dcTant Dieu et les peuples ciTilis& du monde, abreuTJ comme elle
est d*amertunics et d*injures implacables, et elle proteste solen«
nellement contre Tinjuste intervention de la puissance russe^ qui
en faveur d*un despote paijnre se prepare k souiller d'nn pied
profane tout droit de Thomnie, et des nations.
EUe proteste dans le sentiment de Tincontestable devoir de
dJfcnsc de soi-m^me, k laqudle on l*a poossj.
An nom de ce droit international, qui fait le fondement des
rapports mutuels entre les ^tats, au nom des traitds, dfclarations,
et protestations, qui plaoent sous r<%ide du sentiment de justice
commun k tons peuples Fexistence de oelle d*entre elle, qui est
menace de mort par la hacke d*un bourreau usurpateur.
. C*est encore au nom de la liberty de Tdquilibre de TEurope et
de la civilisation,
Au nom de rhumanit^, et du sang innocent, qui vers^ dans
une parcille guerre crie vengeance au Dieu de la justice.
Que la nation bongroise j compte, que la sympatbie de tout
peuple, qui aime le droit et la liberty, r^pondra k ce crL
Mais que tout le raonde Fabandonne, et die d^dare tout de
meme dans la consdcnce de soi-mdme devant Dieu etle monde :
qu*elle ue c&Lera jamais k la violence des tyrans, et qu*elle luttera
jusqu*au dernier soupir dans la d^ense de ses drcnts contie let
atteintes du despotisme.
Que Dieu, et le monde dvilis^ soit juge entre nous, et not
oppresseurs !
Debrccdn, le 18 Mti, 1849l
LOUIS KOSSUTH,
COMTE CASIMIR BATTHTANT,
llinbtre det Aflkiits fitrasfkct.
II
ij::
* 1 1
APPENDIX.
479
III.
-»,
■g
AU PEUPLB RUSSB
Vous, qa*im poavolr despotiqoe arrache da soia de tos file
milles, et aa seuil qui Tons a tu naitre^ rccerei quelques paroles
amicales.
EUes Tous sout adress^Ses aa nom d'an people^ qui a one
origine pareffle 2i la Tdtre ; qui que vous soyei, niembres da grand
empire de la Rossie, d*un peaple, qai d^ son berceaa dot toos
£tre lij d*amitid et de consanguinity et que nuuntenant on toos
mkie 2i extirper I
Mais le penple hongrois qa*a-t-il done commis envers Toa%
pour qu*on reuille tous en faire les boachers f
lis se trouTent parmi le peuple des millions de Slares^ tm plos
proches parents, amalgam^ dans le nom commun de Hongrie*
et qui ^talent toujours fiers de se nommer ^f agjares, paroequ'ils
jouissiuent de tous les mSmes droits que ceox-ci.
Vous porterez done la mort et la derastation parmi toutes oes
peuplades sans distinction, et pour qnelle but ?
C'est pour la grandeur de I'empire de Russie — ^rous dit-on f
Mais n*est-elle pas asses grande, cette Russie ? en £tes-Toas
plus riches pour sa grandeur, tous pauTres soldats, qui sTes
juste le pain k manger, et k qui on croit payer son sang et sea
membres par quelques miserables liards, et des coups de baton Ik
entrance ?
£st-ce que la grandeur de ce bel empire ne serait pas birn
mieux assiu^, si on ^mancipait le colon du servage, sous leqael
il g^mit. Si au lieu que Ton vend son travail en mtmt temps^
que sa personne, il put Touer son temps 2i coltirer le solf
Qu*il faudrait pen de temps alors, et tos champs seraient
couTerts de moissons en abondance. Vos Ix^tails sans nombrea
TOUS fourniraient de riches reTcnus, et les metiers et les arts
480 APPENDIX.
fleuriraicnty le pcuple, loi ausa se sentirait grand, riche et
puissant.
Mahitenant ce n*est que dcs chiffons de papier, qu'il gagne
dans le meilleur cas, k la sueur do son front, des chiffoDi,
qui changcnt de raleur, selon que la caprice du maltre prodigue
des millions en or et en argent, soit pour les orgies de son palait,
soit pour nourrir et engraisser les foules d^etrangers, qui four-
miBeut autour de sa personne, comme les papiOons autoor
de Torbe lumineuse, Grangers et intrns, comme lui dans la
Russie, soit pour les semer en Europe, pour d^moraliser celle-c^
et c*e8t lui et les Allemands qui rous exduent, tous autrei
grands et puissants de la Russie, de toute participation au
pouToir!
(Test eux, qui Teulcnt et nourrissent Fabsolutisme du mattrc^
parccqu'un gouveniement russe national ne lenr ctierait point
toute cette influence.
C'est done pour miuutenir cet absolutisme Granger, que rons
Russes de toutes les classes tous deres tous ^tre esdaTCS.
(Test pour ccla, qu*on tous mhat dans d'antres pays, chet
nous en particulicr, pour maintenir Tesdarage. Ceci est Tun
des buts. L*autre ce que tous ne sojez pas trop nombreuz,
et n'(9eTex point la roix ches tous contre la djnastie intmc^
et contre ses satellites, car on sait bien, que qndconque sera
le sort de la guerre, tous seres d&doA par les boules^ lea
maladies, le climat, et les dTcntualit^ de la goetie.
Mais demandes tos fr^res, les Pokmais. Us tous diront
de mC*me, quel sort on leur a prfpar^ en se senrant de Tons
contre eux en instrumens aTCugles. lis tous diront que SlaTCt
lis combattent pour nous et aTcc nous en Trab frires d'annet,
parcequ'ils savent, que la bune des SUtcs, dont on nous aecoae^
est un mcnsonge, et que nous nous battons oontre une dynastie
ftrangcre, qui d*accord aTcc la TAtre, Teut opprimer les penpks^
que nous sommes les champions de la liberty unirerseDe^ de
celles des SIstcs aussi bien que des antrei penpkt. Ne Tont
Uussex done pas sc^duirc par des fansses promesses on illusions,
ni contraindre par une cruelle et indigne Tidenee.
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j i Vous ansa ttes bommes, et tous aTCi det droitf ; Tons etet ime
. 1 gnmde natioD, et tous devcz dcvclopper comme teb, et tous anir
entre rooj plus qa*il j a de races differentes, qui fonnent cette
nation, poor avoir votre part dans le maniement des aflEairea qui
TOUS regardent. Iklais vous dercs toos unir k nooi et aox
Pdlonab. I>&ertei ceux qui tcnlent toos faire vous entre-
- ^goiger arec nooa, pour en avoir le profit. Nous vous rccevrooa
k bras ourerts. Toumcs Ici armes contre tos <^presseun^ oa
r&uex-Ieur au moins toute ob^issanoe.
n est temps qu*on mette fin au despotisme^ et k oenx qui
reulent r^ner snr un pajs^ auquel ils n'appartiennent pas mikat,
t non seulement sans consulter ce peuple, mais en ropprimant
de force ; et en lui eulevant les rcssources mime, qui en feraient
nn peuple benreox.
Encore une fois nous nous battons pour U liberty nationale.
Nous Toulons Vt^alit^ devant U loi de tous les membres d*iiiie
nation, mais nous ne voulons rien renverser, que les despotes et
ks soutiens de leur despotisme*
Nous sommes contraints de nous defendre k la denu^re
extrvmit^ et nous ne mcnagerons rien, s*il le faut ; mais il nous
repugne dz nous entrcgorger avec ceux qu*un force brute seule
pousse contre nous, mais qui nous considcrons comme des fr&rca.
Ecoutez done cette parole, vous, toutes les populations de
la grande Russie, vous toos Busses, bauts et petits^ puissants et
faiblcs, seigneurs et esclavcs, colons, marcbands, travailleura, et
soldats, Lisez la parole de Dieu, et vous verres que nous
sommes tous frcres, et qu*il ne faut pas tuer son fr^, Mab oe
qui est plus, vous vous tucx vous-memes. Les Romanow et les
Allemands ne n^eront tranquiUes en Russie, tant qu*il j aura
des Slaves, des Ratbl'nes, des Cosaques, des Tatares, en nn
mot, tant qu*il j aura en Russie des races, uds pour la liberty
COMTE CASIMIR BATTHTANT,
Ministre det Afftiret fitnng^ieti.
VOL. II. * '
483 APPENDIX.
IV.
CIRCULAIRB I TOUS LES AGENTS DIPLOMATIQUES DE LA
UONGRn.
Apr^ les actions tcrribles, dont la djrnastie antrichienne i*C8t
rendue coupable enven les peoples habitant oes pays, et surtoat le
rojaume de HoDgrie, on pouTut bien croire, sa forenr sanglante
rassasive* pensant qu*H ne restait k marqoer snr les pages lusto-
riqoes de notre malheureuse patrie» aucune nouTeOe injustice^
aucone cruaut^ non eommise.
Trabison, paijure, riolation de sa parole doaote, eabalct
paies, excitation Ik la nfTolte, alliance avec des bandes meor-
tri^res, qoi ne faisaient que piller, inoendier et toer, arrestatkm
des parlementairesy emprisonnement despatriutes^ lean joge>
ments et ex&ntiona contre toot droit, contribuUons Tidlentes,
fabricadon de faosses notes, insolence de tout genre^ bombarde-
ment et inccndies non motirds des capitales^ destmctioa sanrage
de biens des particuliers unsi que des trdsors publics^ souinare
du droit des peoples et de la morale^ tout ce qui soul^f e le oceor
en effrayant Time, tout ce qui est horrible, Uche et blasphtma
fftt commis contre ce paurre p^yt.
La Hongrie souffrit, mais jamais elle ne s*&arta de la Toie de
la justice, jamais elle ne se hussa emporter par un sentiment
de Tengeance, jamais elle n'usa de pareils moyens sous prftexte
de repr&ailles. La nation hongroise fut Tictoriease en champs
oorerts par Theroisme de ses troupes et la justice de ses annes^
le dernier de ses simples soldats ne rersa son sang qu'en dtfenae
de sa propre personne, m^iageant Femiemi tratire mtme an
mQieu du combat le plus furieux. Voilll oe qui expGqoe la
doukur profond^ que cette nation ressentit en voyant trmUM
ignominieusement ses malheureux combattants^ qui tombteat
prisonniers entre les mains de Fennemi barbaie. D n'y a
d*iuhumanitd qui ne fut oommise par les meroenaires de rA»>
triche ris-^-rb de ces pauTres captifs. Etre aecabUs de fiunioi^
tralnds sans aucune raiaon d'un endroit k raiitre» attcints de
paroles blessantcs et d*injurca personnelles sourcot mtme TeEi*
"
▲FPKNDDL 483
colion k mort &nt Irar sort ordiniire. pendmt qp^m cooftnirc^
m camp lioi]groi% la majority des prisoonkn mtridiiait n'a c«
i|ii*k le loner d^mi trutement bmuun et gAi&cm, et ^iidqaet-
uns en poUiircnt Icor rccomuasamce*
Le g6i^ral-en-dief de Vwrmit hoofftnat, tspfnjoi fSure fimr de
lels mdfiuts, adiena on eeril an mar£dial-de-canip de Fann^
antriduenne, et font en hd rqirodiant le maaqine de noUene
de cette mani^ d*i^, fl rinterpdia k ne plot tadwr de ectte
manite le nom de Tannfe antridiienne et cdni de tea eooi-
mandants. Encore Ini fitrfl obeerrer qne 6 k 8000 prisonmers
antridiiens mum ^*nn nomlire i-pen-pite ^al de bleM^i et
de maledes ae tronrent en not nuuni^ qne ce nomine d^paaae de
beanoonp cdni de nos captifa, — et qn'entre lea captiiSi aa-
tridiiena 3 y a dea offidera de giadea 8iqi6ienia lioiigrob de
naiaaancf^ ct par cons^nent, capabka da crime de teahiaoa
enven lenr pairie, qn*U ne depend, done q[ae du premier 8%nal
poor qne la tele d'nn bongrob maasacrt amt rtogk par mie
triple exfentioii.
Blais cet appd du gdn^ral n*eut ancone anite.
An coDindre, on nouTean crime fut commia.
Le Baron Mednj&nszkj, d^fenaenr b^roiqne et commandant
du fort de L^poldstadt, ainri que le capitaine d'artilkrie^
Grober, tomb^rent dans lea mains ennemies, nne partae de la
gamison ajant capitoM. On les tralna pendant plorienra mob
dans des cachotf, puis leor fit on proc^ Ol^g^l* ft malgr^ le dit
appel de notre gendral-en-chef, aoqael on ne r^pondit paa mtoc^
ces deux offidera furent ex^t^ poor aroir adon lenr devoir
consdendeusement defendn la forteresae. Etponr queFex&Qtioa
fut plus d^^radante encore, c'est la corde qui fat cboisie, conmie
moven d*ex^tion.
Cependant la Hongrie a toujoura encore borrenr de cmeDea
repr^saillea ; die estime beancoup trop la rie de aea brarea
dtojena ponr lea livrer 2k de sanragea masaacrea, et c*eat poor
cette raisoDy que le gouTemement a dcdde de ne 8*doigner paa
mcme k TaTenir da chcmin que Thumanit^ liii preacrirait joa-
qa*k present.
1 I 3
484 APPENDIX.
Mais en attendant U» le sort de nos malheurenx prisonniers
reste tonjours plong^ dans une crnelle incertitnde; soit qu*ib
fussent tonib& dans les mains de Tennemi, oomme prisonniers
de gnerre» soit comme rictimes de la politique* Cest en oe
sens, que je tous •charge d'etablir et constater oes fails pris
dn gouTemement anquel rous Ites enroy^ an nom de Thu-
manit^ et de la dvilisation ; r&lamex qa*il ftsse finir ces cmautA
inonies.
Si les puissances Arangires ne veulent nous seoourir, qa*ils
fassent raloir, au moins de la justice c^este et les droits sacr&
des peuples en faisant sentir 2i TAutriche la honte de pareils
procdd<^ qui ne sont digne que de peuples saurages^ et qu*ils
sauTcnt aussi la Tie k plusieurs centaines d'hommes de tout parti,
en soulageant au moins leurs souffranoes.
En outre, servez-Tous de la presse, afin que Fopinion publique
soit le juge de ceux qui se sont souilld de pareils forfaits, et que
leur nom soit marqu^ k touts dtemit^ par le m^ris g&i^ral.
Enfin, futcs savoir, que le gouTcmement lui-mSme arec tonte la
bonne Tolont^ de retenir le peuple, et le soldat ne pourra i la fin
plus £tre en ^tat de mattriser I'exasp&ation, que de pareils for*
futs font naitre, et que rien ne serait plus terrible qu'une giierr«
2i morty oik cbacun se rendrait justice 2i lui-mtme.
Pest, le 18 Join, 1849.
COMTE CASIMIR BATTHYANY,
Ministre det Aflkiret £tnii|lret.
THE END.
LOKbOltl
Printed bj Schuize and 0*^ ISf P^nd 8tf«eL
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