y-\ ravels vn Voftuf-ij^
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
DON JOHN, Prince of Brazil.
TV TAY it pleafe your Royal Highness to
permit me to lay at Your Feet this
Work, being a Part of my Refearches in the
Kingdom of Your Royal Highness; and
to exprefs my Wifhes, at the fame Time, that
Portugal, the benign Mother of glorious
Difcoveries, may rival her ancient Greatnefs,
under the aufpicious Reign of King John
THE Sixth.
"VoUR RoVAT. HiGIINRSs's-
Mod obedient,
and moft devoted Servant,
London,
May 30, 1795.
yames Murphy,
THE LffiKAHy
gait
PREFACE.
A/TOST of the travellers who hav© hitherto obliged the
world with their obfervations on Portugal, reprefent
it as a barren inhofpitable field for information, without
allowing it to poflefs fcarcely an objed worthy to arreft
the attention of the Philofopher, the Antiquary, or Artift ;
and, indeed, the contents of their pages appear to corro-
borate the reprefentation.
Truth, however, will not allow me to plead the fame
apology for the want of interefting matter in this work ;
if it fall Ihort of the end propofed, the fault is not to be
afcribed to that fertile country, but to the want of talents
or induftry on my part.
A nation once celebrated in every quarter of the globe
for its difcoveries and conquefts, that abounds with the
moft valuable mineral and vegetable produdions, that car-
ries on a trade of the greateft extent and importance, and
polTeffes many of the moft valuable colonies in the world,
muft: furnifh an innumerable feries of obje6ls for the
a coniider-
0
vi PREFACE.
confideration of the Hiftorian, the Naturalift, and State f-
man.
Leaving thefe momentous fubjeds for the inveftigation
of more enlightened travellers, I have contented myfelf
with gi'^ing only fuch cafual remarks as came within the
contracted fphere of my obfervation, and thefe I have
thrown together with very little art or arrangement.
Whether I have been more or lefs fuccefsful in noting
or recording whatev^er occurred, than my predeceflbrs
who have traverfed the fame ground, the public will befl
determine. I fhall only obferve, that there is not an
article in this work they have anticipated, nor a Plate
with which it is embellifhed or illuftrated (except one *)
has ever been engraved before, as far as my inquiry has
extended.
The extracts inferted are chiefly from the Portuguefe
writers, whofe names are mentioned, with very few ex-
ceptions ; and wherever any omiflion of that nature occurs,
it happened through miftake or failure of memory, and
not with a view to ufurp the merit of the author.
When firft I coUedled thefe fragments, it was not with
an intention to publifh them ; but in order to obtain fome
knowledge of the manners and cuftoms, the ancient and
* The Plan of Lifbon.
prefent
PREFACE. vii
prefent ftate of Portugal. My friends, however, at length
intreated me to commit them to the prefs ; affuring me
that I would meet with the fame indulgence which artifts
ufually claim, and generally receive from the public,
whenever they attempt any literary performance.
Encouraged by this circumftance, I have complied with
their requeft, from a convidion of having faithfully re-
prefented whatever came within my view, and corredly
reported the fubjedis that were verbally communicated
to me. But at the fame time, not confidering myfelf as
refponfible for the authenticity of fubjedls thus colleded ;
fmce I am but the humble organ through whom they
are conveyed ; and as a ftranger to the country, without
an opportunity to compare, variety to furnifh fekaion, or
the means of inveftigating the truth by a number of col-
lateral evidences.
Having taken a review of the whole in arranging it for
the prefs, I found many paffages that ftood in need of
emendation, and others that required to be purged of
their exuberance or expunged; but think'ing it might not
be unacceptable to the reader to behold the irregular fallies
of one unaccuftomed to write, I have fuffered them to
remain unpruned, like fupeifluous branches ihooting from
a ftock.
a 2 ^^
v5il PREFACE.
As it was principally through the munificence of the
Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, that I
have been enabled to colka the materials of this work,
as well as thofe relating to my defcription of the Royal
Monaftery of Batalha, I feel it my indifpenfable duty moft
gratefully to acknowledge the many obligations I owe to
his conftant patronage and friendfhip.
[ ix ]
CONTENTS.
cf RAVELS in Portugal^ ^ ? • P^S« «
The River DourOf - - * " 3
^ y.«r«^/ e/-^^/^ D^y^ Journey from Oporto to Batalha, 17
Coimbra, - - • •
Royal Monq/iery of Batalha, • - ' ^r
Principal Entranccy ' " ' fi
Chapter-Houfe, . - - - 3
Maufokum of King Emanuel^ - - 37
if/V;^ yo)&« //&f i^^'^y?* - - - 50
Pri«c^ Pedroy - " - - 59
Prince Henry^ -
Don John, -
X, ,. / . - - ibid.
Don Ferdinand,
King Edward,
King John the Second, - - - 9
- - - 74
Letria,
83
Marinba Grande,
An Account of the Manner of treating £ees in Portugal, - 85
Royal
X CONTENTS.
Royal Monqflery of Alcoha^a., - - Page 88
Don Fedro and Dona Ignez dc CaJlrOy - - H2
Lisbon, - - - - _ i^i
Orij'tn and Progrefs of LiJboUy - - x-i/L
On the prefent State of Lifbony - - \ac
Praga do Comer cio^ - - - 140
JLqueflrian Statue of Jofeph I, '■ - 150
Cannon of Dio^ - - - 1^4
Idfcloy - - - - ij6
Public Walks and ^mufeme}its^_ - - i^y
The Patriarchal Churchy - - - 161
An Account of the eflablifjed Annual Revenue of the
Patriarchal Church , ' - - - 163
An Account of the ordinary Annual Dijburfements , of
. the Patriarchal Churchy - . _ ibjd.
LorettOy - - - , 1 65
Church of St. RoquCy - - - 167
New Churchy . - _ _ _ _ 169
Cemetery of the Britif J FaHoryy . - - 170
Epitaph to Hejiry Fielding y - - - ly-f
Royal Monrfla-y of Belerfiy - - .- 1 74
Bomfucccfoy - - ■_ . I -.5
The Irifi Convent y . - - - j-,y
Lifban Aquedu^fy - - - j-g
^antity of Butchers Meat fold at the Shambles of Li/bon
in the Y«ar 1789, - - . - . - jgi
Charitable Inflitutionsy - - _ 184
Ohfervatioits on the' Laws of Portugaly - - iSj
Methuen Treaty y ■ - - . ig^
3 Trade
CONTENTS, xi
Lisbon.
Trade of Portugal with Ireland^ from March 1 78 1 //'//
March 1782, - - _ Page 195-
Obfervations 07i the Manners and Cufloms of Portugal^ 106
ExtraBs from Meteorological Obfervations made at Lifbon
in the Tears 1783, 1784, 1785, - - 220
Obfervations for 1781, - - -.221
Number of Marriages, Births, and Deaths regifered at
Lifpon in the Years 1788 and 1789, - - 222
Of the Portuguefe Jews, - _ - ibid.
Father Lewis de Sot fa, - - - 231
^ Letter from the King of Melinda, to Emanuel King
of Portugal, - - - - 235
Cintra, - - - - " 241
Cork Convent, - - - . 255
Defcription of Cintra, - - - 256
Pen ha Verde, - - - - i^y
Don John de Cafro, - - - 259
Sanfkreet Infcription, - - - 274
Memorandums of an Infcription in the Sanfreet Language
and De'ua-Nagarec Chara&er. Tranfated by Q\\3lX\qs
Wilkins, Efj. - - - 279
Mafra, . - - - - 287
Sctuval, - - - - , - 290
Beja^ ----- 297
Evora, ----- 302
AqueduB of ^ Scrtorius, - - - 303
Temple of Diana, - - - 306
Charnel-Houfe, - - - - 309
[ xli ]
DIRECTIONS to the BINDER for placing the PLATES.
Plate
I. A View of the Bricifli Fadory-houfe at Oporto, to face? age la
II. A View of the Caravanfliry of the Oaks, - - 20
III. A View of the Churchof Batalha, - - - 36
IV. A general Plan of the City of Lifbon, - - - 130
V. A Reprefentation of the principal modern Streets of Lifbon, 148
VI. A View of the Cuftom Houfe and Royal Excliange at Lifbonj 1 50
VII. Arabic Infcriptions, - - - - 154
VIII. Roman Infcriptions, - - - - 184
IX. A Peafant of Alenteju — A Lifbon Fruit-woman — A Woman
of Beira, - - - - 20a
X. A Portuguefe Merchant, with his Wife and Maid Servant, 204
XI. The Fandango Dance, - - - 210
XII. View of an ancient Bath at Cintra, - - 246
XIII. A Copy of a Sanfkreet Infcription — at Cintra, - - 278
XIV. Fragments of Roman Antiquities, found at Beja and Evora, 298
"^Yj' [ Ancient Infcriptions — at Beja, - - - 300
XVII. A View of the Aqueduft of Q^ Sertorius — at Evora, - 304
XVIII. A View of the Caftellum of Q;_Sertorius — at Evora, - ibid.
XIX. A View of the Temple of Diana— at Evora, - - 306
XX 1 .
Y XI C ■^"^^^"•^ Infcriptions — at Evora, - - 308
XXII. One ancient and two modern Infcriptions — at Evora, - ibid.
XXIII. An Arabic Infcription — at Evora, _ _ _ ibid.
XXIV. An interior View of a Charnel-houfe — at Evora, - 310
ERRATA.
Page 274. line 6. For the Duhe de Braganfa read Di.t Cenjiantiita de Bragar.^a.
277. — 8. For rendas read render.
Ha^H^j
T^M^S
TRAVELS
I H
PORTUGAL.
o
N the menty-feventh of December, one thoufand
^^ feven hundred and eighty-eight, I failed from the
port of Dublin, on board a trading veffel bound to Oporto.
On the morning of the feventeenth day after our departure,
we defcried the mountains of Vianna, which rile at the
Northern extremity of Portugal. A few miles to the
South of thefe mountains, appeared Villa do Conde ; here
our Captain pointed to a fcries of arches, the remains
of an ancient aqueduft ; the number we could not afcer-
tain with the motion of the fhip, but the Captain affured
us that they exceeded three hundred, and their apparent
extent feemed to juftify the affertion.
On the evening of the fame day, we approached the bar
of Oporto, and made the ufual fignal for a pilot. An
B eight-
LoNiDo/\y(7j
t TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
eight- oared barge, equipped with a white and black crew,
foon arrived, with two commiflioned pilots, who informed
us, much to our regret, that we muft put to fea till the
next day, as it was too late to pafs the bar. In the mean
time, a heavy gale arofe which fwelled the fea mountain-
high. One of the pilots who continued on board, feeing
the ftorm increafe, conducted us to the bar early the
following morning, when feveral boat-men came to our
affiflance.
Nature has alraofl cut off all communication be-
tween this city and the fea ; the channel, in fome parts,
being not more than double the breadth of a fhip, and
fo full of windings, that it requires the utmoft fkill to
pafs it with fafety, even in a calm day, but in a tempefl
like this, the fcene is tremendous, and called forth the
united efforts of the crew, to obviate the danger of the
rocks, fands, and waves, which oppofed our entrance.
The river Douro alfo increafed the difficulty, as it now
ran with the velocity of nine miles an hour, in confe-
quence of being fwelled beyond its ufual bounds by a
fucceffion of rainy days. It is eafier to conceive than de-
fcribe the conflidt which enfued between this current and
the waves of the Atlantic, as they met in a narrow channel
at the mouth of the river.
About jfive in the evening, we paffed this Charybdis, with
only the lofs of an anchor, and arrived oppofite to a con-
vent
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 3
vent belonging to the order of Saint Anthony, about a mile
up the river. A fhip from Greenock, in attempting to
follow our example, was dafhed to pieces almoft in our
view, but fortunately the hands vi^ere faved, though with
much difficulty,
iTie River Douro.
The Southern banks of the Douro^ as far as the eye
can reach, is diverfified with convents, and villas, the oc-
cafi-onal retreat of the wealthier citizens. The groves and
gardens that accompany them have a charming effed: on
the eye of a Northern vilitant, as the ravages of Winter
have not flripped them of their verdant foliage. The
orange-tree, which may be juftly confidered as the emblem
of gratitude, here furpaffed in beauty all the reft ;
" Flowers and fruits at once flie fhewed,
" And as flie paid, difcovered llill ihe owed."
The beauty of the profpeft, and the ferenity of the air,
when compared to the naked trees and piercing winds of
the country from which we had lately departed, rendered
the tranfition enchanting.
The Douro is the largeft river in Portugal, except the
Tagus ; it takes its rife near Soria^ in Old Caftile, and
having traverfed a tra6l of about an hundred and tv/enty
leagues, is loft in the Weftern Ocean. Ag it approaches
the fea, it winds its courfe in a vale formed by two im-
B 2 menfe
4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
menfe and cppofite mountains, where it is of depth fuf-
ficient for the largeft trading veffels to anchor along the
banks on either fide. During three days the rapidity of the
current prevented our receiving the cuftomary vifits, with-
out which none dare attempt to go afliore, under pain of
imprifonment. The objedl of thefe vifits is twofold, the
one to fearch for contraband goods, the other to examine
and report the ftate of the paffengers health. On the
evening of the fourth day, three officers came aboard, ac-
companied by an interpreter, who, in the lofty tone of
authority, commanded thofe who had either tobacco or
foap * in his poffeffion, to bring forth the fame : his man-
date was immediately obeyed ; but as the Captain was
aware of the laws of the country, he fuffered no prohi-
bited goods on board, except a fmall quantity of the above
articles for private ufe, and thefe were not feized.
We muft declare, in juftice to thefe officers, that they
performed their duty with fo much politenefs, that it car-
ried more the appearance of a friendly vifit than an official
fearch. Thofe who have witneffed the vifits of Britilli
cuftom-houfe officers, upon fimilar occafions, will fcarcely
believe that fo much urbanity exifls among men of that
clafs. The late Marquis de Pombal, on his arrival as am-
baflador to the Britifh court, was fo rudely treated by a
group of thefe gentry, that it impreffed him, ever after^
* The importation of tliefe articles is prohibited even in the fmalleft quantity.
with
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 5
with an unfavourable idea of the execution of the revenue
laws of this country. And it is generally fuppofed, that
this circumftance alone operated as the caufe of the re-
gulations which he afterwards eftablifhed relative to the
wine-trade of Oporto, regulations not very friendly to
the interefl of the Britifli fadory of that city.
After the vifitation of the above officers, we were in
expe6lation of that of the phyfician ; but as his perfonal
attendance was prevented by indifpofition, he difpatched
a certain deputy to fupply his place. This illegitimate
fon of Efculapius commanded every perfon on board to
appear on the deck, whilft he furveyed them from the
oppofite fhore, at the diftance of about two hundred
yards ; and indeed T could not help furveying him from
head to foot, for fo curious a figure in the medical line
never ftruck my fight before. To judge of his talents by
his drefs, (the modern criterion of merit,) little was to be
expetSled, for he appeared to defpi{e all the formal trap-
pings of the faculty, fuch as the fable drapery, the broad-
brimmed beaver, the full-bottomed wig, &c. his drefs was
rather convenient than otherwife, it confifted of a red cap,
a blue jacket fomewhat lacerated at the elbows, .
Having confidered a few minutes, he took a pinch of fnuff,
then nodding his head, pronounced a few words to this
effe6t : / certify that ye are all in good health. Whether
he derived his information from intuition, or from the pene-
tration of the vifual organs, or whetiicr it happened merely
3 froirfe
6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
from chance, he certainly pronounced a verdi£t which
even Hippocrates could not refute.
Oporto.
On the evening of the eighteenth of January, one thou-
fand feven hundred and eighty-nine, the paffengers, con-
fifting of tw^o ftudents, appointed for the univerfity of Sa-
lamanca, and myfelf, were conduced to Oporto, and re-
commended to an Englifli tavern, Vv'here we took up our
relidence. The firft thing that ftrikes the mind of a
flranger, on his arrival here, is the devout appearance of
the inhabitants. Religion feems to be their only purfuit.
The clattering of bells, the buftlingof procefTions, and the
ejaculations of friars, engage the attention by day, v/hilfl
every part refounds by night with the chaunting of
hymns.
Oporto is the fecond city in Portugal, in point of extent,
population, and trade. It is feated about a league and a
half from the fea, upon the declivity of a hill, on the
North fide of the river Douro. The houfes rife gradually
one above another, like the feats of a theatre. The ma-
jeftic river which flows in the vale, covered with fliips and
boats, may be compared to a ftage, on which, thoufands
of aftors are feen daily engaged in the bufy drama of
trade. On the oppofite fide, we behold an immenfe moun-
tain, which terminates the profpe6l, and prefents this
commercial
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 7
commercial theatre with a fcene highly pidlurefque, con-
iifting of gardens, villas, convents, vidne-ftores, &c. all
in the moft natural ftyle of perfpedive and colouring.
According to fome antiquaries, the name of this city
is derived from Calle, the title by which the Romans
diftino-uifhed it. According to others, it is derived from
the name of the founder, fuppofed to be Getelus^ the fon
of Cecrops king of Attica, after whom it was called Partus
Getelus^ and hence they deduce the word Portu-gal. But
the name of the kingdom, as Andrew Refcndius, a man
of great learning, makes it appear, is derived from the
haven or port of Gale, formerly a little obfcure place,
fituated upon a rifmg ground on the river Douro. The
harbour was at firft reforted to upon the account of fifliing,
and being found very convenient for that purpofe, numbers
of people flocked from all parts and fettled there. In
time, it became a rich and populous city, and was called
Portugal, a name which has fince extended to'the whole
kingdom. This was the opinion of Oforio, and alfo of
Camoens, as appears by the following lines :
In that proud port half-circled by the wave,
Which Portugallia to the nation gave.
M'lckles Liifiad^ b. vi.
As we have fhewn the reafon antiquaries aflign for the
kingdom's being called Portugal, it may not be improper
to obferve, that, as it includes a great part of ancient Lu-
c faania^
8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
fitdma, (o it is often diftinguiilied by that name alfo. We
fhall therefore, in the courfe of this work, ufe the names
Portugal and Lufttania promifcuoufly, as all the writers of
that country have done.
Oporto, in common with moft ancient cities, has the
defects of being narrow, and fo irregularly difpofed, that
there is fcarcely a houfe in it with four right angles.
Hence, a ftranger would be led to fuppofe, that the forty-
feventh propoiition of the hrft book of Euclid had not yet
found its way thither. The corner-houfes of the ftreets in
general, being obliquely difpofed, render the adjoining
houfes of the fame figure, as every one follows the crooked
plan of his next neighbour. Thus all become rhomboids
and trapeziums, defeds which at firft might have been
avoided by relinquifliing a little ground ; but there are
very few in commercial cities, who would facrifice a few
feet of their property, even for what Pythagoras facrificed
a hecatomb.
Many of the ftreets are fo fteep, that a man may be
faid rather to climb than walk them. But this defedt is
compenfated by their cleanlinefs, which they owe more
to nature than police ; for as often as it rains, the floods of
the adjoining mountains rufli down in torrents, and fweep
av/ay all the impurities of the town. Lamps have not
yet been introduced in the ftreets, except thofe which are
placed at the Sacraria of the Madonas.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 9
The houfes, when viewed at a moderate diftance, have
a clean agreeable appearance, owing to the colour of the
materials, the lownefs of the roofs, and their not being
disfigured by a multiplicity of chimnies, thofe vehicles of
dirt, which make fo confpicuous an appearance in the
buildings of Northern climates. Here no apartment is
furnifhed with a fire-place but the kitchen, and this is
ufually placed in 'the attic ftory.
The churches are large, ftrong, and magnificent build-
ings, but totally devoid of every thing that conftitutes
fcientific architedure : theirs is of a fpecies between the
Teutonic and Tufcan. The materials of which they are
formed are excellent, and the mafonry-part not without
merit. It is fcarcely credible what riches are lavifhed on
the infide of them ; the altar-pieces, baldachins, &c. how-
ever defedive in defign, exhibit a profufion of gilding.
Gold is certainly a very effedlual thing to conceal the want
of art or fcience, or . And yet the Portuguefe
have fome artifls not devoid of merit, but unfortunately
they are not encouraged. I knew a painter here named
Glama, who would do credit to any fchool in Europe,
had he incitenient to call forth the latent powers that
were imprifoned within him : he was a native of Portugal,
and had ftudied many years in Italy, where he acquired
a corredtnefs of drawing, and a chaftenefs of colouring,
that indicated uncom.mon talents. Notwithftrinding, he
aflured me that he could fcarcely eke cut a miferable
c pittance,
lo TRA-VELS IN PORTUGAL.
pittance, though he painted every thing that was offered
to him, from the fign-poft to the apoftle.
A lady who refided many years at Oporto, relates the,
following anecdote of a rich merchant of that city, who
intended to embellifli his apartments with paintings :
for this purpofe he applied to Signor Glama, who hap-
pened then to have fome valuable ancient pidlures in his
poffeflion, which he v^as commiffioned to fell at a very
moderate price ; but the merchant, who was a better judge
of the produce of the grape than of the pencil, ftarted
with furprife when he demanded twenty moidores for a
Corregio, and faid, " That he had lately bought two new
** pi<3;ures of larger dimenfions for the fame money !"
Signor Glama was one of the artifts employed by the
Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, when on
his travels through Portugal, in making drawings and
fketches of antiquities, 8cc. which may be feen among
this gentleman's valuable collediion of papers relating to
Portugal.
The General Hofpital, if completed, would be the
largeft building in Oporto. The principal front was in-
tended to confift of an hexaftyle portico in the Doric
order, with a pavilion on each fide. Although it is up-
wards of twenty years iince the foundation of this ftruc-
ture was laid, there is yet but a wing of one of the pavi-
6 lions
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Vi
lions covered in ; the reft is raifed but a few feet above
the furface, and is likely to remain in this ftate, a magni-
ficent modern ruin, and a lafting monument of the folly
of not proportioning the defign to the public purfe. The
fite is of all others, perhaps, the moft ineligible for ceco-
nomy, on account of the inequality of the ground, a cir-
cumftance which obliged the archited to build walls in the
flanks, as mafly as the famous wall which feparates China
from Tartary.
Towards the North Weft part of the city, upon an
eminence, is fituated the barrack ; it confifts of three files
of fmall but clean apartments, of about ten feet in height;
oppofite to it, is an extenfive parade. The whole is en-
compaffed by a wall, and is fuppofed to contain about five
hundred infantry. On entering the gate, it is cuftomary
to falute the centinel. Defer ters are generally punidied,
not with ftripes, but with fervile labour ; we met half-a-
dozen of thefe vidlims chained in pairs, carrying provifion
on their backs^ which to a Portuguefe is a mark of the
greateft ignominy ; for, according to their generous fenti-
ments, that part of the human frame, which is never to
be feen by the enemy, is not to be degraded by any fervile
opprefiion ; hence, even the pooreft peafant is always
found to carry his load, either in his hands, or on his head.
The annexed plate exhibits a view of a buildinor which
is nearly completed, and intended principally for the ufe
c 2 of
iz TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.'
of the Britifli fadlory. The ground-ftory is to be the Ex-
change; the next (over the mezzanine) the Bali-room,
which is fifty-five feet long by thirty broad, and has two
tier of windows in the front. The whole is carried on from
the defigns of William Whitehead efq. the Britifh conful.
Over the center acrotoire, on the top of the building,
is to be placed a ftatue, on the fubjedl of which the
fadlory have not yet decided, and in all probability will
not for fome time, as artifts are generally the laft who are
confulted here on thefe occafions. We fhould fuppofe,
that in a commercial edifice like this, taking the country
into confideration, a ftatue of Prince Henry, the Pharaoh
of navigation and the fource of commerce, would not be
unfuitable. He is generally reprefented as holding a globe
in one hand, a chart in the other, and his motto on the
pedeftal Ta/enf de bien faire. The ingenious architect has
filled four pages in folio with calculations, which ran to
quadratick equations, in demonftrating how much the in-
tended ftatue fliould incline forward, fo as to appear per-
fe<ftly eredt to a fpe(ftator viewing it from the oppofite fide
of the ftreet. Hiftory does not inform us, that Phidias
required the afliftance of algebra in decorating Athens
with his graceful ftatues.
On the South fide of the town, near the verge of the
river, is an extenfive building called the Serra^ perched
upon the brow of a lofty precipice. Its form and fitua-
tion convey the idea of a barrack ; and indeed I almoft
5 concluded
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 13
concluded it was fome military ftrudlure, upon feeing a
number of flags difplayed from the windows : on inquiry,
however, I found it was a convent belonging to the
order of friars called the Cf'uzes, who this day difplayed
their enflgns, in honour of their patron faint. My guide
pointed to one of the fathers, dreffed in a black cloak and
flouched hat ; he was mounted on a mule, according to
the rules of his community, which ordain, that they
mull: not be feen outflde of the boundaries of the convent
on foot. Each friar, therefore, is equipped in that manner ;
fo that they form, as it were, a fort of cavalry to the
ecclefiaftick corps, and are, in general, richer and more
refpefted, or at leaft would be thought fo, than the ec-
clefiaftick infantry.
Among the commercial fabrics, the wine-ftores claim
the firft rank, after the cuftom-houfe, in point of fize.
One of them, belonging to Mr. Warre, a Britifh merchant,
is an hundred and forty feet long by ninety broad. The
iniide is divided into three corridores, by two feries of
ftone piers, extending from the one end to the other. Be-
tween thefe piers, and next the walls, are placed the
wine pipes, two in height. Several coopers and labourers
are daily employed in preparing the wine for exportation.
We were fhewn here a fort of white wine, the produce of
the province, which is fo influenced by the weather, that
when it rains it becomes muddy and unlit for ufe.
The
14 TRAVELS INPORTUGAL.
The following recipe, I am informed, is fometimes ufed
by the merchants of Portugal for corre6ling four wine.
Fixed alkali, or fait of tartar, put into four wine, will
abforb the acidity, and give it the tafte and'fmell of new
wine. Too much alkali will turn it black and muddy ; in
order to avoid this defect, a quantity of the acid liquor is
mixed with the alkali before it is applied.
In order to give the reader an idea of the annual ex-
ports of this city, it may not be uninterefting to annex the
following ftate of the fame in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and eighty-nine :
35,600 Pipes of wine, fhlpped tn various parts of Europe and
America.
4,989,000 Faras * of linen cloth, the greater part of which was fent
to America.
40,000 Faras of fluff, fent to B azil and Llfbon.
92,000 Covados t of woollen cloth, baize, &c. manufadured at
Oporto and its diftriift.
110,000 Dozen of various pieces of potter)'.
8,500 Pipes of oil, part of which was fent to Brazil.
10,500 Chefts of Brazil fugar.
56,000 Arrohas % of fumach, tartar, potter's lamina, lemon-peels,
and cork.
♦ Vara, A meafure nearly equal to a yard.
f Covada, A meafure which contains three quarters of a yard, or a Flemifli ell.
f Arriba, A weight of thirty-two pounds in Portugal.
1,200
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 15
1,200 i^uintals * of bay-berries.
9,000,000 Sweet and four oranges.
8,000 Lemons.
500,000 Varas of lace, and other ornamental manufadures ; fent to
Brazil.
150,000 Covados of filk, manufadured at Oporto and its diftridls ;
fent to Brazil.
Refpedling the manners of the inhabitants of Oporto,
my fhort relidence in this city has enabled me to form
but a fuperficial idea, efpecially of the females, who are
feldom obferved out of doors, except in going to, or re-
turning from church, a place they ufually vifit twice a-day;
and then the face is veiled, or half-concealed beneath the
folds of a black mantle. The few that I have feen un-
mafked, had a pale complexion, black fparkling eyes,
and a countenance replete with Simplicity. In ftature
they are rather low, but of a pleafing figure, their walk
and deportment are eafy and graceful.
The men are well-proportioned, rather low than tall,
have a brown complexion, and referved countenance. They
are polite to ftrangers, and refpecftful to each other; even
the poorejft people are treated by their fuperiors with civi-
lity. Their drefs in Winter is rather warm than elegant ;
a large capote covers all but the feet, and a part of the
head.
* ^'ifiol, A weight containing four arrc^iM, or isSlb.
The
i6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The labourers chiefly employed here are natives of Ga-
licia, a province of Spain ; hence they are called Galegos.
Their number is computed at eight thoufand in Oporto
alone, and the whole kingdom is thought to contain not
lefs than fifty thoufand of thefc induflrious adventurers.
If this ftatement be corredt, (and I do not give it on light
authority,) and that each man lays up, on an average,
eighteen pence per week, then the mofl profitable trade of
Portugal is carried on by the Galicians ; for their favings,
according to this calculation, amount to one hundred and
ninety-five thoufand pounds per annum^ which they carry
to their own country. Thofe who have witneiTed their
manner of living, will admit that the fum is ftated rather
below than above the truth ; for they are the moft oeco-
nomic people in the world. They are fed gratuitoufly at
the "gates of the convents, lodged in cellars, ftables, or
cloifters, and clothed in rags, in which they ufually repofe.
Yet many of them poffefs lands and houfes in their own
country, whither they return at ftated periods to divide
their hard earned pittance with their families; and finally
retire, as foon as they have made fufficient to live inde-
pendent of labour, to fpend the evening of life in the
fimple enjoyment of domeftic felicity. To the honour of
this induftrious race we fhould not forget to mention, that
the allurements of gain have rarely been known to betray
any of them to commit a difhoneft adion.
Here
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 17
Here I took leave of my fellow- palTengers, highly
pleafed with the civility of our hoftefs, who was a good
friendly old woman, though reputed for railing her voice
at times ; but as this proceeded more from necefTity than
choice, it was excufable in a folitary widow like her, con-
tending with adverlity at an age when others fink into
reft. Her tongue was the weapon jfhe generally appealed
to whenever fhe thought her rights invaded, and the only
weapon fuch a feeble creature was capable of wielding.
We afked her why (he did not return to her native country ;
*' Ah ! (laid fhe) that country is too cold for one that has
" been fo long accuftomed to this ; but at all events, I
*' fhall return thither three months before I die, in order
*' to leave my bones in old England."
A yournal of feven Days yourTiey fj-otn Opor'to to
Batalha.
ya?iuary 23. I fet out for Batalha in a fmall chaife,
accompanied by a Portuguefe youth going to Lifbon to
be educated for the church. This youth was recom-
mended to my attention by his guardian, an aged prieft,
who, though in no wife related to him, maintained and
educated him from his infancy, when death deprived him
of his parents. The friendly manner in which he em-
braced him at our departure, and the tendernefs he ex-
prelTed for him by his tears, impreffed me with a h-'gh
D opinion
i8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
opinion of the humanity of thofe people, and recom-
mended this worthy prieft's fmftity and humanity, more
than his rofiry and reverential habit.
As foon as we crofTed the Douro, we were joined by
three other carriages returning to Lifbon ; two of them
were empty, the other was engaged by a gentleman from
the province of Minho. This gentleman has been my
topographer on the road ; and I fear that the names of
fome places, not to be found in the Portuguefe maps,
partake of the corrupt orthography of his province, where-
in they fpeak a dialed: between the Portuguefe and the
Spanifh languages. We were alfo accompanied, in the firft
day's journey, by four Galician labourers, employed by
the muleteers for the purpofe of afTifting them in refcuing
their vehicles and mules from the obftrudions that lay in
the way. It is extraordinary, that fo near the fecond city
in the kingdom, there is not a perch of what v/e fhould
call a road ; fome efforts, it is true, have been made to
form one, but fo ill contrived, that the firft torrent has
fwept the greater part of it away. We fhould not have
been able to proceed without the aid of thefe labourers,
as the mules were every moment tum^bling, or embarraffed
in the mud, v^-here they muft have remained but for the
united efforts of the company. At four o'clock in the
afternoon we reached Dos Carvalhos in a miferable plight ;'
mules and muleteers, Galicians and paffengcrs, all in the
fame livery, befpattered from head to foot,
I EJlalagem
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
»9
EJialagem dos Carvalhos^ or the Caravanfary of die Oaks,
diftant about one league from Oporto, which we left
at nine o'clock in the morning, clofed this day's flage.
Whilft dinner was preparing, I took a furvey of this exteu-
Hve Caravanfary, and fketched the view of the fame here-
unto annexed, (Plate IL) It contains, belides a number of
unfurnifhed apartments, offices for cattle, implements of
hufbandry, &c. The moft commodious part of the whole
is the ftablc ; but the kitchen appeared to be the mofl: en-
tertaining ; about the center of it is a circular cftradc,
raifed about fourteen' inches above the floor, on which the
fire was placed, and feveral earthen pots refting upon tri-
pods. Here all aflembled to fpend the evening. Priefts,
pilgrims, gentlemen, muleteers, and beggars, without dif-
tin6lion, fat round this blazing orb, in focial intercourfe ;
one clafs chaunting vefpers, another reciting rofaries, a
third recounting miraculous tales of provincial faints,
whilft, at intervals, a well-timed joke ftole round, which
relaxed even the brow of devotion, and fet the circle on
a roar.
When fupper was ready, the motley fociety fat down as
promifcuoufly as before, to a table covered with flmples,
that would iuit the palate of an Epidietus. This table
was placed in a hall, the door of which was fel dom clofed
by day or night ; every one had free accefs to it, the poor
might enter as freely as the rich, and when once entered,
all the imaginary diftinclions which feparate man from
D 2 his
20 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
his fellow-being vanifhed. The grave is not a greater
enemy to diftindtions, than the Caravanfary dos Car-
•valhos !
yanuary 24. Here our Gallcians consigned us to our
fate, and returned to Oporto. At five in the morning
we continued our journey, amidft inceffant rain, to 6*/.
Antonio da Rafana, where we took up our lodging for
the night. Our repaft, which included dinner and fup-
per, confifted of bread, wine, dried fifh, and oil ; the
latter I did not tafte, as I faw the cruet replenifhed from
the lamp. A Portuguefe gentleman who fat next me,
cried in broken Englifh, " This is bad fare, Sir, but you
*' muft expedt no better till you get to Lifbon."
After dinner, I paid my refpeds to the family of the
houfe, and found the hoflefs, with her two daughters,
leated on their heels, fpinning flax by the light of a lamp.
The fpindle and diftafF fupplied the place of the wheel,
the ufe of w^hich, perhaps, is unknown to them. It is
much to the credit of the women of Portugal, efpecially
thofe of the province of Beira, that they manufacture all
the linen ufed in the kingdom, through its various branches;
they fow the grain, reap the produce, and hatchel the
flax, afterwards they weave the yarn, and make up linen
not inferior, perhaps, to any in Europe, for colour, foft-
nefs, and durability. Every houfe is fupplied with plenty
of this linen, however indigent in other refpcds ; even
9 the
:^
^
^
•*, ■=^
^
i?
•V
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 21
the table of the pooreft peafant has a clean cloth and nap-
kin, though his repaft conlifted of nothing more than
bread and chefnuts.
Su7iday^ yafiuary 2^th.. Our muleteers would not de-
part this morning till they heard divine fervice. We ac-
companied them to a fmall chapel, about half a mile from
the village, where a venerable old father celebrated the
fervice of the day with great decency. The auditory had
a refpedlable appearance y not one was to be feen among
them whofe apparel befpoke wretchednefs. This day's
journey was more pkafant than that of the foregoing, as the
weather was fair, and the way tolerably clean. Towards
the Weft vi'-e had an agreeable pro'fpecl of the fea ; the land
bordering on the coaft appeared in good cultivation, and
the (helving mountains were planted with trees. At five
o'clock we concluded our Sabbath-day's journey, at a little
village called Algarve F'eilha, nine computed leagues from
Oporto. We expedted our dinner would have compenfated
the involuntary abllemioufnefs of the two preceding days,
on which flefh-meat was interdicted ; but to an Epicure
how great the difappointment ! when Summoned to the
board, inftead of the fmoking lirloin, we found but a
morfel of beef floating in an ocean of meagre foup.
At the commencement of the night a group of fwains
ferenaded the village, attuning their nodurnal ftrains to
the charms of their favourite nymphs : afterwards they
alTembled
22 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
affembled at our inn, and danced with the muleteers, who
feemed at every trip to fhake off the fatigue ot the journey.
The village-nvmphs were content to remain as fpeclators,
except one, guarded by a toothlefs duenna, who ventured
to join with a fpruce city muleteer in a fandango.
"January 26th. We fet out at fix o'clock in the morn-
ing, and paffed through a pleafant country, diverfified
with hill and dale, clothed with groves of fpruce and cork
trees. Having croffed the river Vouga^ we met another,
a fhort diflance from thence, properly named Rio da Bella.
After taking fome refrefhment at Sa-rdad^ we paffed
through Villa da Bella^ the appearance of which does not
juftify the name. In every village, we obferved that the
refidence of tlie lord of the manor was diftinguifhed from
the other houfes by its magnitude ; in the front are ten or
twelve apertures without glafs ; the infide correfponds
to the fimplicity of the outward "appearance, with regard
to ornament ; and as to furniture, the poft-deluviari habita-
tions, perhaps, were not lefs encumbered. In a country
like this, where the mildnefs of the air, and the verdure of
the fields at every feafon of the year refemble a perpetual
fpring, the inhabitants, conftantly invited abroad, are ac-
cuftomed to confider their houfes as little more than places
of fhelter by night. Hence furniture is to them of no
real ufe, except the iew articles that appertain to the con-
veniencies of their fimple mode of lining, and in the choice
of thefe few they are not very fcrupulous.
During
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 23
During a good part of this day we travelled through a
fine level country, but without inhabitants or cultivation,
though the foil appeared well calculated for every fpecies
of culture. Land is of fo little value here, that, inftead of
fquare or triangular divifions of property, the only fepa-
rations known are rivers and mountains. A farm-houfe
is a novelty, and one might as well feek in the deferts of
Lybia for a rick of hay, or a ftack of corn. Melhado
clofed this day's journey ; as foon as we fat down, the table
was fpread with bread, honey, fruit, and wine..
yanuary 27th offered the moft fublime profpeft I
ever beheld. We reached the fummit of the loftieft moun-
tain in.this part of the country about break of day, when
a few feeble rays, of a deep purple colour, began to fhoot
along the Eaflern fky. Thefe Shortly yielded to a tranfient
cone of rays of a faffron hue, which appeared to afcend
like the flames of a volcano ; their rapid expanfion in-
ftantly difpelled every gloom, and filled the horizon with
a blaze of glory. We flopped a while, and looked with
admiration at the phenomenon, whilfl: we refledled on the
omnifcicnt Fiat of the Creator, as delivered by the Divine
Hiflorian, thus in the language of the Poet,
Light heard God's voice, and eager to obey,
From all her Orient fountains burft a way,
Cotmbra\
-4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Coimhra,
At ten o'clock in the forenoon we arrived at Co'wibra^
a city long celebrated as the Athens of Portugal. It
is fituated in 4.0° i 2' North latitude, about an hundred
miles from Lifbon, and built partly on the Weftern iide
of a fleep rocky precipice, and partly on a plain conti-
guous to the xi'vtrMo?idego. Notwithflanding the elevation
of its Ute, we did not perceive it till we had almoft en-
tered on it ; when the churches, colleges, and lofty towers
broke in upon the view at once, and realized the defcrip-
^ion of Camoens :
Here caflle walls In warlike grandeur lour,
Here cities fwell, and lofty temples tower:
In wealth and grandeur each with other vies ;
AVhen old and loved the parent-monarch dies *.
Lt'Jiady b. iii.
This city formerly experienced all the vaciflitudes of
war, and a rapid fucceffion of different mafters. Ro-
mans, Alans, Moors, &;c. fucceflively maintained a tran-
fitory poffeffion of it, as may be colledled, I am informed,
from the remains of various infcriptions, ftiil to be feen
on the walls of its ancient ftrudures.
* Parent- monarch dies King Diniz, the Lufiad of Camoens, are acconling to
■wlio founded the univerfity of Coimbra. — Mr. Mickle's excellent tranflation of that
For brevity's fake, we beg leave to advert, beautiful poem,
that the extracts cited in this work from
To
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 25
To the philofophic mind it mull afford a train of
pleafing refledlions, on conlidering, that this delightful
fpot, once the fanguinary theatre of hoftile contention,
is now become the peaceful retreat of the mufes. Its col-
leges are numerous, and liberally endowed. The number
of ftudents in the various clafles of literature are eftimated
at three thoufand.
In examining the interefting objeds of this city, I had
almoft forgot to deliver a letter of introdudion to the
Prior of St. B . I was condudled to his cell, where
he had juft funk into his after-dinner nap ; and as the
thermometer, to a Portuguefe conftitution, was rather
low, he fat in a two-armed chair, oppolite to a window,
through which the beams of the fun played on him in all
their meridian effulgence. His feet were inveloped in a
bafket of ftraw-work, and his body wrapped up in a black
mantle lined with flannel. To the wearied forlorn traveller,
how happy muft fuch a ftate of peace and flumber appear,
when contrafted with the anxieties attendant on adive life.
And the effeds of this unagitated abftradion feemed im-
prefied on his Reverence's countenance, the plump features
of which plainly evinced that he never perplexed his mind
in the intricate labyrinth of fcience. After a few minutes,
he configned me to the care of two young gentlemen,
ftudents of the univerflty, who very politely fhewed mc
feveral of the moft ftriking curiofities of the Mufeum.
s I re-
z6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
I regretted that time would not permit me to examine
fufficiently the fine colled:ion of land and fea animals this
Mufeum contains. Here are alfo a very extenfive feries ol"
the various clafles in the mineral and vegetable kingdoms,
arranged according to the Linnaean fyftem. If we may
judge from the capacioufnefs of the feveral apartments
occupied by thefe rarities, the Mufeum of Coimbra is
inferior to few in Europe ; which is not extraordinary, if
we recolledl that for ages it has been the repofitory of the
curious productions of nature and of art, pouring in from
the Eaftern and Weftern hemifpheres. The Library is alfo
very extenfive, and ftored with an immenfe number of
printed books and manufcripts.
From the many local advantages Coimbra pofleffes for
trade and manufactures, an Englifh traveller is furprifed to
fee how little the inhabitants avail themfelves of thefe
favourable circumftances. But that, in a great meafure, is
owing to their finding an eafier mode of fubfiftence in
devoting their time to the fervice of the univerfity. Its
principal fadories confift of pottery, of which there are
fix for red ware, and eleven for glazed. The experience
of ages, with the aid of various experiments made in the
chymical elaboratory of the univerfity, have contributed to
raife this branch to a high degree of perfedlion. Woollen
and linen cloths are alfo manufactured here, and it fupplies
the kingdom v/ith ijoooden tooth-picks,
6 Towards
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 27
Towards the clofe of the evening, I walked through
fome of the ftreets in the lower part of the town, and
found them crowded, as it was market-day. Among the
various articles expofed for fale, the chief were pottery,
honey, wax, and vegetables. The home-confumption of
the firft article cannot, I imagine, be very great ; for,
notwithflanding its fragility, it feldom falls a vidim to
paffion or inebriety ; as perhaps no nation is more exempt
from the fallies of the one, or the excefs of the other, than
the Portuguefe.
One of our Chinefc hiftorians obferves, that the people
of Canton make the fale of their brittle ware the baro-
meter of European paffions ; and as often as the fale auo--
ments, they are known to fay, " The preceding year has
*' been a paffionate one in Europe."
A fhort diftance from the above fcenes of frugal traffic,
I approached a fmall affembly of men and women beneath
a fhed adjoining to a fmith's forge ; their voices were
imited in chaunting vcfpers, which, however, did not
interrupt the courfe of induftry. The blackfmith, who
led the concert, continued to hammer out the horfe-flioe,
the malleable notes of which were modulated by the fo-
norous bafe ot a wine- tierce that a cooper was hooping.
Every paufe of the hammer and adze was iilled with the
fweet notes of the females^ who, without thefe accom-
E 2 paniments.
28 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
panlments, would have rendered juftice to the facred
fong.
In the year one thoufand two hundred and forty-fix,
an inftance of loyalty occurred in this city, which de-
ferves to be recorded, as it ftrongly marks the bravery of
the ancient Portuguefe, and their fidelity to their lawful
fovereign. A brave old foldier, named Don Martin de
Freitas, was appointed governor of the town by Don
Sancho the Second. When his ambitious brother AlonzOy
who was about to ufurp his crown, had laid fiege to it,
Freitas, faithful to his trufi:, and fuperior to bribes or
threats, encouraged the befieged to bury themfelves in the
ruins of the fortrefs, rather than yield to a man who could
ftifle the feelings of a brother, and violate the duty of a
fubjed. Having fuftained the fiege twelve months, and
finding his refources exhaufted, he repaired fecretly to
Toledo, the lajfl afylum of his unfortunate fovereign j
But, alas ! the Prince, weighed down with afflidlion,
a few days before had paid the laft debt to Nature.
The governor, however, was not fatisfied till he ful-
filled the folemn vow he made; namely, never to deliver
up the keys committed to his truft, but to him from
whom he received them. Accordingly he ordered his fe-
pulchre to be opened, and put the keys of the city into
the cold hand of his generous mafter. Having thus ful-
filled his duty, he returned to Coimbra, which ftill held
out by his order, and then furrendered to Alonzo.
Don
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 29
Don Sancho is allowed by moft hiftorians to have been
a juft king, a brave commander, and an aiiedionate huf-
band. His queen, Dona Mecia^ according to the fuperfti-
tion of the age, was faid to have given him an enchanted
draught, to incite his amour, which difturbed his intelledls.
The clergy, in conjunction with his brother Alonzo^ Earl
of Bologna, were fuppofed to have been the propagators of
this calumny, and the fomenters of the confufions which
enfued; till at laft the unfortunate Prince was depofed by
pope Innocent IV. His beautiful queen was torn from
him, conveyed away as a prifoner by one named Raymond
Portocareroy and was never heard of more.
The fate of the above Prince, when compared to that
of Alfonfo VI. involves a queftion which the civilians
of Portugal can beft anfwer. The former loft his wife, his
crown, and his liberty, for one of the moft amiable virtues
in private life ; namely, loving his wife. Whereas Don
Alfonfo^ in the feventeenth century, loft his liberty, his
crown, and his wife, for the very contrary caufe.
January 28th. At day-break we refiimcd our journey,
and arrived at the village of Condexa ; in which I do not
remember any thing remarkable. Solgeira prefented the
fource of a river, which guftied from the interftices of a
number of ftiarp disjointed rocks. At five in the evening
we entered Pombal, a city diftinguiHied by giving title to
5 the
30 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
the late celebrated Marquis *, whofe name will ever found
like the departing knell to the difciples of Ignatius Loyola.
The remains of that illuftrious ftatefman are deposited in
the parifli church of this city ; the inhabitants i'peak of
him with enthufiaftic refpedl.
There are but few objeds here to arreft the traveller's
attention, except a caftle, placed, as ufual, on an emi-
nence ; the dilapidated remains of which are fcarcely fuf-
licient to enable even an artift to form an idea of its former
Rate ; and it is probable, that in a few years, the remaining
fragments will experience the fate of the foregoing, which
have been carried away for the pious purpofe of building
convents.
Having furveyed thefe veftlges, I returned to the inn, to
partake of a fowl boiled in rice ; there were alfo fome frefli
eggs, and a defer t of figs and walnuts ; fo that we fared
fumptuoufly to-day. But we were not equally happy in
a bed-chamber, for the place where we lay was better cal-
culated for dancing than repofe, both from its dimenfions
and fituation ; it was immediately over the ftable, where
there was at leaft a fcore of mules, each furnifhed with a
bracelet of fmall bells, which continued tinkling all night
with the nodding of their heads, as they contended with
knotty ftraw. 1 he floor was compofed of planks, with-
* The Marqiils de Pombal.
out
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 3,.
out a ceiling, perforated in fome parts, and flirunk in
others, leaving vacuities about the width of the S in the
founding- board of a guitar ; fo that every tinkle diftindly
reached the ear. To reft in a fttuation of this kind was
impoflible ; therefore I was under the neceffity of rou^ng
the muleteers to proceed on our journey. The miftrefs
of the inn, at our departure, made a handfome apology :
** I am forry, Senhors, (faid fhe,) that you have not refted
" well; but {ince the mulick was not agreeable, I fhall
" make no charge for it."
Januajy 29th. Pafied through the city of Leiria^ of
which we fhall have occafion to fpcak hereafter. In five
hours after, we arrived at Batalha. Here I took leave of
my fellow-travellers, with no fmall fhare of mutual regret ;
no perfon in my fituation could have witnefted fo much
kindnefs, without bearing tcftimony to the fidelity of my
muleteer, who feemed anxious to fupply every inconve-
nience of the inns, and render the journey as agreeable as
pojGible.
■m
j2 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Royal Mo7iafiery of Batalha.
The fight of this edifice would have amply repaid a
longer journey, even though lefs pleafant, than that I had
juft experienced ; and what enhanced the pleafure of the
profpeft, was the unexpected fight of it at an hour when
the fun was fetting, and every turret was gilded with the
radiance of his defcending beams. The bufy affemblage
of fpires, pinnacles, buttrelTes, and windov/s ; their deep
projeding fhadows, the Siberian folitude of the place, and
the venerable appearance of the friars, rendered this one
of the moft remarkable fcenes I ever beheld.
For my introdudion to the Prior of this convent, I am
indebted to a letter obtained through the favour of Mr.
Searle, a Britifli Merchant at Oporto, a gentleman from
whom I experienced every hofpitality and civility during
my abode in that city. As foon as I approached this
worthy Prior, I could not help contrafting his appearance
and manners with thofe of the Prior of St. B ; his
face was marked by ftrong angular lines, but apparently
more the effeds of thought than of age, which might be
about fifty. He was tall, thin, of a reverend deportment,
with a countenance replete with ferenity j and though he
prefided as chief lord of the manfion, his pre-eminence
was confpicuous only in his fuperior wifdom and modefty.
Th
IS
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. :i^
This monaftery is fltuated in a fmall village called
Batalha^ in the province of Eftremadura, about fixty
miles North of Lifbon ; it was founded by John the firft,
king of Portugal, at the clofe of the fourteenth century,
in confequence of a fignal vi6tory obtained by him over
the numerous forces of Caftile, in the hard-fought battle
of Aljubarota.
The archite6lure is of that ftyle called Modern Nor-
man Gothic, and may be juftly confidered one of the
moft perfect and beautiful fpecimens of that ftyle exifting.
The whole, confidering its age, is in good prefervation,
and has fufFered very little from the ufual injuries of
the elements, owing to the durability of the materials,
and the ferenity of the climate ; fome parts, however,
have been damaged by the fatal earthquake of one thou-
fand feven hundred and fifty-five, which the fathers, on
account of the poor revenue of the convent, have not
been able to repair ; but as far as their means extend, they
are careful in cleaning and preferving it from accidents.
In the conftrudlion of the church, we obferve none
of thofe trifling and fuperfluous fculptures, which but
too often are feen to crowd other Gothic edifices \ what-
ever ornaments are employed in it, are fparingly, but
judicioufiy difpofed ; particularly in the infide, which is
remarkable for a chafte and noble plainnefs : and the ge-
F neral
34 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
ncral effcdl, which is grand and fublime, is derived, not
from any meretricious embellifhments, but from the in-
trinfic merit of the defign.
The forms of its mouldings and ornaments are alfo dif-
ferent from thofe of any other Gothic building that I have
feen. The difference chiefly confifts in their being turned
very quick, cut fharp and deep, with fome other pe-
culiarities which cannot be _well explained in writing.
Throughout the whole are feen a corredtnefs and regula-
rity, evidently the refult of a well-conceived original de-
flgn ; it is equally evident, that this delign has been im-
mutably adhered to, and executed in regular progrefTion,
without thofe alterations and interruptions to which fuch
large buildings are commonly fubjedl.
The extent of the building, from the Weftern entrance
to the Eaftern extremity, is four hundred and flxteen feet.
From North to South, including the monaftery, it mea-
fures five hundred and forty-one feet. The entire, except
the inferior offices and dormitories, is built of marble ori-
ginally, not very diilimilar in colour to that of Carrara ;
but that colour is now changed internally to a modeft grey;
externally the ftone has contrad;ed a yellow fcoria, highly
pidurefque to the eye of the artift.
Principal
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ;^s
Principal Ejit ranee. {See Plate IIL)
111 every thing that conflitutes the ornamental cr the
elegant, the principal Entrance certainly ftands unrivalled
by any other Gothic frontifpiece in Europe. The Fortal,
which is twenty-eight feet wide by fifty- feven high, is
embelUrhed with upwards of one hundred figures in alto
relievo^ reprefenting Mofes and the prophets, faints and
angels, apoftles, kings, popes, bifhops, and martyrs, with
their refpedlive infignia. Each figure flands on an orna-
mented pedeftal, beneath a canopy of delicate work-
manfliip ; they are feparated from each other by an af-
femblage of mouldings, terminating in pointed arches.
Below the vertex of the inferior arch is a triangular
recefs, where there is feated on a throne, beneath a triple
canopy, a figure with a celeftial crown, his left-hand refl-
ing upon a globe, the other is extended in the a£t of ad-
monition. This figure reprefents our Saviour didating to
the four Evangelifts who furround him, attended by their
refpedive attributes.
The fummit is crowned with an ornamental railino;, at
the height of about an hundred feet from the pavement of
the church. The fpace between that and the Portal is
occupied by a large window of fingular workmanfhip ;
it confifts of tablets of marble, formed into numerous
F 2 compart-
36 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
compartments, vvhofe interftices are filled up with ftained
glafs. In the evening, when the fun is oppofite to this
window, its beams dart through the perforations, and cover
the wails and pillars of the church with myriads of va-
riegated tints. It is impoffible to convey an adequate idea
of the beauty of the efFed, or the agreeable fenfations
they excite in the fpedator.
Chapter-Houfe,
In point of conftrudion, the Chapter-Houfe might be
Gonfidered a mafter-piece of architedlure. Its plan forms
a fquare, each fide of which meafures fixty-four feet, and
is covered with a vault of hewn, ftone. The principal
ribs fpring from flender fhafts, and branch out in dif-
ferent diredlions as they approach to the centre, where all
the radiating nerves, in the form of a flar, encircle an
ornamented patera.
It is recorded, that in building that magnificent arch, it
fell twice in ftriking the centres, with great injury to the
workmen. But the king, defirous at all events to have
a room without the defed of a central fupport, promifed
to reward the archited: if he could accomplifh it ; at this
he was animated in fuch a manner, that he began it again,
as if confident of fuccefs. The king, however, would
not recommit the lives of his workmen in ftriking
the
Plate 111.
^4 View or thk cmumch of b^-italha
O
Pnhl^hii Miui t . I'lfS.hit ('tiih-il lituf UuMi^^v. Sdtuui
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 37
the centres ; therefore he ordered, from different prifons
of the kingdom, fuch delinquents as were fentenced to
capital punifhment, in order that, if the like difafter hap-
pened a third time, none fhould fuffer but thofe who had
already forfeited their lives to the offended laws of their
country.
Maufoleum of King Rmanuel.
At the rear of the church is an unfinifhed Maufoleum
of a curious form, wherein the architedt has exhibited no
fuperflcial knowledge of geometry, or the principles of
found and elegant defign. In point of workmanfhip,
neither the pen nor the pencil is adequate to exprefs its real
merits ; for, though moft objedls when transferred to the
canvafs appear to advantage, this, on the contrary, though
delineated by the moft ingenious artift, upon examination,
will appear more beautiful than any reprefentation of it
upon canvafs or paper. And for thefe reafons, the marble
is polifhed, the fculpture in many parts detached from the
centre of the block, and fo minutely carved, that to pre-
ferve all the expreflive marks and touches of the chifel, it
is not pojQible to condenle them into a fmaller compafs :
fo that, to convey a true idea of the whole, the pidure
would require to be as large as the prototype. To give
an inftance ; there is a figure at the entrance, reprefenting
one of the fathers of the church, not more than twelve
^ 4 inches
3^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL
inches in height, yet the fculptor has expreffed its worn
tunic in a thread- bare ftate.
We may form fome idea of the magnitude of the de-
flgn, from the magnificence of the entrance ; it is thirty-
two feet wide at the fplay j as it recedes, the breadth con-
tradls, till it forms an aperture of fifteen feet wide by
thirty-one feet high. De Soufa, the hiftorian, calls this
a moderate fized aperture ; and, indeed, fo it appears, for
nothing is great or fmall but in a comparative relation.
Amongft the many thoufands of ornaments with which
this entrance abounds, we behold the following motto often
repeated, Ta?iyas erey. The charaders are Gothic, em-
boffed, and encircled by rings knotted together. The
writer whom we have juft mentioned, has attempted to
decypher this motto. The following extracts may give
fome idea of his manner of reafoning :
" As it is the duty of an Author to deliver his opinion
" on doubtful paffages of hiftory, it will not be deemed
" prefumptuous in me to endeavour to untie or cut, with
** a fhort difcourfe, this, which is not a gordian knot,
** though it appertains only to Alexanders to touch thofe
*' knots that are tied by kings.
" On confulting a perfon of great erudition about thefe
*' words, we concluded that they were Greek : tanyas
" being
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 39
** being the accufative cafe of the Greek word ta7iya \ and
" erey^ the imperative of the word ereo^ which means
" either yl'^"/^ thou^ inquire^ or dif cover. Words apparently
** addreffed from the Lord of the temple to King Emanuel j
" faying, as it were, go thou and explore unknown regions.
*' Thus animating him not to deiift from the enterprife
" he had in contemplation at this time j namely, the dif-
*' covery of India.'*
In the Loggia contiguous to the above door we obferve
over a recefs a fhield, bearing the letters Ey between two
armillary fpheres. " One fhould fuppofc, (continues De
Soufa,) that the founder of the edifice intended to excite
the attention of the curious who came hither, and was
refolved that it fhould cofl: them more trouble to explain
his enigmas, than to decypher an Egyptian hierogly-
phick, or the Sibylline oracle. Indeed, it would be
eaiier to form a judgment of fubjeds of the latter kind j
becaufe, with the affiftance of words and allufive figures,
we may draw fome fatisfadory conclufion. B'ut in the
former, the precife meaning of the Author is difficult
to be afcertained from a few infulated letters, fubjedl to
receive, camelion-like, the colours we wifh to givef
them, or, like virgin-wax, fufceptible of every volun-
tary impreffion.
*' The firfl difficulty that occurs is to afcertain the lan-
*< guage to which thefe charaders belong. I imagine they
3
*' are
40
TRAVELS I N PORT C GAL.
*' are Greek, like thofe before mentioned : and as they
"are guarded by fpheres, and a crofs of the order ot
^ Chrift *, there is unqueftionably fome myftery inveloped
*' in them.
*' Indeed, the founder appears to have given us an em-
blem like that of the Temple of Delphos in Greece. At
*' the portal of which, as hillory informs us, there was
" an infcription addrefied to thofe who entered : T\i^i
" cj-eaoTov ; that is to fay, Know thyfelf\ and over the
" door an emblem Ei, fimilar to ours, which Signifies
*' THOU ART.
<(
<c
That emblem fo employed the thoughts of the an-
*' cient fages, that Plutarch compofed a volume upon it,
*' wherein, after many arguments, he concludes, that by
" the letter Ei is defignated One Eternal God. His
" words are as follow :
• The latter belonged to the arms
of King Emanuel, as he was mafter of
the order of Chrift, an honour conferred
on him when he was Duke of Beja, by his
predccefTor John the Second. He alfo
added to the infignia of royalty an armil-
hry fphere, purfuant to nn advice given
him by King John a fhort time before his
Jeath. Hence the King is fuppoftd to
have prcfaged the difcovcries which eiifued
in the Eaftern world. However that was,
its prophetick appearance was vtry propi-
tious to the Portuguefe : for when Ema-
nuel afccnded the throne, he affembled his
council to deliberate on the expediency of
profecuting the navigation to India ; many
of the counfellors endeavoured to diffiiade
him from the enterprize, yet the King, in-
fpired by tlie happy omen of the fphere,
perfifled in his refolution, and accordingly
difpatched Vafco de Gama in that glo-
rious expedition in which he difcovered
India in the year 1498.
Vide OJorit and De Soiifa.
((
Deus
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 4,
" Deus enim eft &' eft nulla 7-atione temporh^ fed ceter-
" nit at is imfnobilis^ tempore &' inclinatione carnetis : in
'* qua nihil prius ejl^ ?iihil pofterius, nihil futur am ^ nihil
^'- prceteritum: nihil a7itiquiuSy nihil recentius : fed unus
" cum yf/j unicus nunc fempiternam implet du7'ationem.
" Non enim multa funt numina^ fed unum *."
Our Author at length concludes, that the emblem Ey
imports the anfwer of Emanuel to the before-mentioned
motto, which defircs him to explore unknown, regions ;
* Plutarch, lib. de Ei apud Dflpk.
The meaning of tlie above pnflage of Plu-
tarch is nearly this : " That God hath no
*' dependence on time, but is a permanent
•' and immutable Eternity, au Eternity
" without reference to time or change,
" infomuch that it contains nothing firft
" or laft, paft or future, nothing more
" ancient or more modern. And fince
" He is but One, He alone fills perpe-
" tual Eternity. — For there are not many
" deities, but only one." — FatKer de Soufa
obferves, that " this is fo conformable
" to what we find in Holy Writ, that
" one would think the Gentile Hiftorian
" took it from thaf p^rt where we read,
" Egojutn qu'ifiim, qui eft, viijttme advcs; I
" AM TH.iT 1 AM. \k\\ hath fent me unto
" you Dryden * . " makes a fimilar obferva-
tion in his Life of Plutarch. It is not Icfs
improbable, however, that Plutarch, who
was no ftrangcr to the Mythology of the
F.gvptinns, took the above idea of the
l")city from the iiifcripfion of the ftatue of
FiilJas or Jfts at i'.;;'j } the meaning of
which was this : / am all thai it, has been,
and JJjall be ; atid no mortal has ever yet re-
moved the veil that covers me. Since we
have mentioned the Egyptians, let us hear
their notions of the Deity. " God is
•' neither the objedl of fenfe nor fubjeft to
" paffion; but invifible, only intelligible f.
" and fupremely intelligent |. In his
" body he is like the light, and in his
" foul he refembles truth §. He is the
" univerfal fpirit that per%aJes and difFufes
" itfclf over all nature. All beings re-
" ceive their life from him ||. There is
" but one only God, who is not, as fome
*' are apt to imagine, feated above the
*' world, beyond the orb of the univerfe ;
*' but being himfelf all in all, he fees
" all the beings >sho fill his immenfitv,
" the only principle, tliejiglit of heaven,
" the father of all. He produces every
" thing; He orders and difpofes every
" thing : He is the reafon, tlie life, the
" motion of all beings «f."
Chc'j. Ramfafs Tkeolcgy cf the Ancients.
» Exodus, Chap. iii. T, 14.
^ Vi'a Pyih. PorpUi-r.
f Pint. Viti Nuir.i.
(! Lafl. \x\. Hi. r.
J Di-ig. I.aTt. iib. j;i.
lavino;.
42 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
faying, " I know, O Lord, that nothing but Thee i&
*' worthy to be fought for. Thofe feas and lands have
" their limits and duration, but Thou alone art eternal,
*' immortal, infinite."
■
To return to the Maufoleum ; the architediure in fome
parts is Arabian, in others abfolute Gothic. The inftde
prefents an odlagon, the diameter of which, between the
parallel fides, is fixty-five feet. This was to have been
covered with a vault of hewn flone, as appears by the
parts already commenced at the height of about feventy-
one feet. The whole is carried up to the height of about
feventy-five feet ; and though it has been expofed to the
weather fince the year one thoufand five hundred and nine,
it fcarcely exhibits any traces of decay,
Refpeding the founder, there are different opinions t
Some attribute it to King Emanuel, others to his fifter
Queen Leanor, confort of his predeceflbr John the Second,
who intended it as a depofitory for her hufband and the
other royal perfonages interred in the convent without mo-
numents fui table to their rank.
It appears, however, that if Emanuel was not the
founder, it has been carried on under his aufpices, by hi-s
name being often repeated about the architraves of the
windows. But at the death of his fifler, he drew all the
artificers employed here to the convent of Bellem near
6 Lifbon,.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 43
Lifbon, founded by him in teftimony of his joy for the
difcovery of India ; in confequence of which, this work,
has iince remained in that negleded ftate.
The fides of the oftagon, except the one at the en-
trance, are finilhed with arches leading to as many cha-
pels, each diftinguifhed by the devices of the princes for
whom they were intended. The pious Leanor, in one of
them deftined for the fepulture of herfelf and the king
her con fort, has introduced her own maternal device j
that is, the pelican in the adt of piercing its breaft.
Indeed, it is much to be regretted, that a fabrick which
redounds fo much to the honour of human ingenuity,
fhould remain in fuch a ftate of negled. If we may be
allowed to judge from what is already done of it, had not
the death of the above princefs prevented its completion,
the modern world' would have to boaft of a Maufoleum,
in magnitude and conftrudlion not inferior to the ce-
lebrated Maufoleum of the ancients * ; and the memory
of Leanor would be tranfmitted down to pofterity with as
much applaufe as that of Artemilia.
The latter, although fhe lived but two years after the
foundation of her Maufoleum, yet her furvivors, out
of refpeft and gratitude to the memory of fo affec-
* See Pliny, b. xxxv'i. c. 5 & 13. Fifcher's figns of this Edifice in the Defcription of
Hiftorical Arch. Tav. vi. See alfo my De- Batalha.
G 2 tionate
44
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
donate a princefs, who made a living fepuiclire of herfelf,
by imbibing her hufband's aflies, did not delift till they
finifhed her defign. Had the furvivors of the Chriftian
princefs poiTefied fo much gratitude or generofity, Ba-
talha, in point of architedlure, would not be inferior to
ancient Halicarnaffus. And even in its prefent ftate, were
it not buried in an obfcure part of Portugal, it may be
faid of it, as the Jews have recorded of the fepulchre of
Simon Maccabeus, that it was never without vilitors to
admire it.
According to the account of thofe who are fuppofed to
have had their information from the records preferved in
the Royal Archives of Lifbon, the name of the architedl
of the church was Stephen Stephenfon, a native of Eng-
land. But the Fathers Cacegas and De Suifa^ who have
written the Hiftory of Batalha with great accuracy, are
filent on this head. They inform us, that the King, de-
iirous of building a monaftery fuperior to any in Europe,
invited from diftant countries the moft celebrated archi-
tects that could be found. Now, as Gothic architedlure
at that time flourifhed in England, it is not improbable
that fome of its artifts might have embraced the invitation
of fo liberal a Prince, efpecially as his confort. Queen
Philippay a Princefs endowed with many amiable qua-
lities, was the eldeft daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke
of Lancafter, fon of Edward the Third.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
45
The eflablifliment of the Monaftery is as follows ; vi%.
twenty-five mafs-friars of the Dominican order, four no-
vices, two tonfures, and thirteen lay-brothers. They are
governed by four prelates ; to wit, a prior or fuperior, a
mafter of novices, a vicar, and a chief confefTor. The
other dignitaries are as follow ; viz. the three profefibrs,
who are appointed to teach feculars, reading, writing, and
grammar ; the precentor, the facrift, the infpedor of the
corn ftores, the fuperintendant of the kitchen, the hof-
tilarius, and the two treafurers. There are fourteen fer-
vants, viz. a cook, who is paid four thoufand eight hun-
dred reis * />^r year, with board and lodging; two carmen,
at four moidores f per year without board ; a flicpherd and
a hogherd, each at fix hundred reis and four alqiceires % of
Turkey corn per month ; and two fervants to attend the
choir, thefe have no fixed falary. The others are the
baker, fhoemaker, laundrefs, and muleteers.
The annual revenue is computed at ten or twelve thou-
fand crufades §, of which feven thoufand are expended on
the maintenance of the friars ; befides, each is allowed
four thoufand eight hundred reis a year for clothing. Of
the remainder there are four hundred milrees || applied in
cultivating their lands. The furplus, after paying fer-
* Ten reis are equal to ^ of a penny. three quarts and one pint. Vuyas Di!?.
f A moidore is worth i/. 7/. § A crufade is worth 2/. 31/.
-\ An alquerre, I beheve, holds one peck || Amilree is valued at 5/. l^d,
vants
46 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
vants hire, is expended in repairs and other contin-
gencies.
During a reiidence of thirteen weeks in this abode of
peace and hofpitality, I experienced every politenefs and
attention from the fathers, who, in every refpe6l confift-
cntly with the duties of their order, pradife the virtuous
precepts of their facred religion. In their mode of liv-
ing there appears nothing to envy, but a great deal to
admire and commend ; they eat but twice in the four-
and-twenty hours, dine at eleven o'clock, and fup at
eight. The daily allowance of each is two fmall loaves,
one pound and a quarter of meat, the fame quantity of
£{h, befides foup, rice, wine, and fruit : a great part of
-this is diftributed among the poor. The rules of their
order they obferve with the mofl fcrupulous rigidity ;
they are muftered every morning in Winter at day-break,
and in Summer at five o'clock, then each brings a vafe full
of water from the fountain, to wafh in, before he enters the
choir. Their cleanlinefs, regularity, and exemption from
the anxieties of the world, contribute to preferve their
health and faculties imimpaired to a very old age. And,
notwithftanding the bodily infirmities which phyficians
afcribe to a ftate of inadlive life, every father in the con-
vent exhibited a pleafing exception to this maxim ; for I
could not difcern one drooping with the weight of years,
:or who had loft a tooth, or who had an eye dimmed
with
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 47
with defluxion, though fome of them had attained to the
age of ninety and upwards. Such is the wife difpenfation
of Providence, that thofe men who have voluntarily fe-
cluded themfelves from the mingled cares and enjoyments of
the world, are compenfated, even on this lide of the grave,
by a long and ferene evening of old age, free from the
infirmities, difappointments, and painful rcflediions, which
embitter the expiring days of the libertine and incon-
fiderate.
On the nineteenth of March, a French pilgrim, who
fliled himfelf Vifcount Clararde, vifited the convent.
The Prior received iiim with every mark of refpedt and
civility due to the high rank he affumed : during three days
he tarried with us, and greatly recommended himfelf by
the agreeablenefs of his manners. His age might be about
thirty; he was of a middle ftature, had fhort black hair,
and a countenance which betrayed more of the levity of a
rambler, than of the piety of a pilgrim. He was dreffed
in a long grey coat, a tawdry laced waiftcoat, and a
ilouched hat, mounted with a rufty cockade. A fable
fcapulet of oil-cloth, ftudded with variegated fliells, adorned
his {boulders. From his neck and girdle were fufpended
rofaries of different lizes, together with a tin cafe and a
pouch.
A lufty fellow, juft deferted from the French fervice,
attended this pilgrim, and carried his baggage in a flieep-
fkin
48 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
fkin wallet. He was now about to defert from his mafter's
fervice, in confequence of the feverity of his difcipline ;
for as the Count conceived him to be a greater finner than
himfelf, he oftener applied the knotty cordon of St.
Francis to his fhoulders than his own : the Prior, how-
ever, fo far accommodated matters, that they departed
in peace.
There are fome particulars which, however trifling in
themfelves, fometimes make as lafting an impreflion on
the mind as objeds of greater magnitude, at leaft the
few that I am about to offer have had that effeft on me.
The parental tendernefs which poets and naturalifts have
afcribed to the ftork, I had the fatisfadion of contem-
plating at this place : one of thefe birds, with its affec-
tionate mate, has reiided for ages in a large neft curiouily
formed on the calceolus foliage which crowns the fpire of
the church. As Solomon fent the fluggard to the ant to
learn induftry, fo the difobedient child would learn ex-
amples of filial piety from the numerous progeny of this
connubial pair. The fathers and the people of the village
would deem it little lefs than facrilege to moleft them ;
and indeed their humane protedion is amply repaid by the
fervices they render the country in deftroying ferpents,
lizards, and other obnoxious reptiles.
In the villac;e there lived a little male idiot, who came
each day to the cloifter to pradife his favourite arnufe-
5 ment,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
49
ment, from which he could fcarcely be drawn to fatisfy
huno-er or thirft. This amiifement confifted in an endlefs
emulation between his toes for precedency ; as he moved
forward one foot, the other, as if jealous of being left
behind, immediately advanced^ and thus he moved on
from morning till night.
This is the firfl; place in which I had heard the warblings
of the nightingale. The little fongfter poured his plaintive
ftrains each night from a branch that fhaded the window
of my cell, and all Nature liftened to the fong, except
the bittern *, whofe loud and inceffant fcreams lull the
mind into fympathetic meditation.
Before we take leave of this Monaftery, we mufl: re-
quefl the reader's indulgence, while we attempt to give a
brief account of fome of the mod remarkable charadlers
who are interred therein. In the center of the Founder's
chapel is an infulated fepulchre, with two cumbent ef-
figies of white marble, the fize of life. Thefe efEgies
reprefent the King and Queen ; the former is dreffed in a
complete fuit of armour, the latter in a long flowing robe,
the graceful habit of the age ; the head of each is dignified
with a low open crown, beneath a triple canopy of curious
workmanfhip, in the Gothic manner.
* The bittern is a fpecies of bird that lives by fuclion in marfliy grounds.
H The
^o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The memorable tranfadions of thofe royal perfonages are
prefcrved in Latin infcriptions, finely fculptured in black
charaders on the fides of the monument, together with
the mottos and emblems adopted by the King, exprefllve
of his extraordinary atchievemcnts.
King yohn the Firjl.
The reign of this Monarch is allowed by Hiftorians to
have formed a brilliant epoch in the Hiftory of Portugal.
He was the natural fon of Don Pedro, furnamed the Jufl:,
by Dona Tereza Lorenza, a Galician lady. He was born
at Lifbon in the year one thoufand three hundred and fifty-
feven, and at the age of feven was prefented for the firft
time to the King his father, who knighted him, and made
him Mafter of the Order of Avis, agreeably to his pre-
ceptor's requeft. This honour was conferred on him in a
convent of the fame order, wherein he purfued his ftudies,
and, happy for the nation, received a moft excellent edu-
cation, which fo improved his ftrong natural talents, that
he became one of the politeft fcholars, as well as the
greateft ftatefman and monarch, of his age.
At the death of Ferdinand his brother, who fucceeded
his father on the throne, the King of Caftile laid claim
to the crown of Portugal in right of his wife. At this a
general
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 51
general difcontent fpread throughout the kingdom, which
was then governed by the Queen, a worthlefs intriguing
woman. Don John alfo afferted his right to the fucceflion ;
but on being rejected, he refolved to depart for England.
This being rumoured throughout Lilbon, the populace
furrounded him and preffed him to flay, to proted them
againft the threatened power of Caftile. He confentcd
with apparent reluctance. The nobility were fummoned
to meet at the Town-houfe, to take into condderation
the expediency of elediing him Protedlor. As foon as
they affembled, a cooper rufhed into the midfl of them,
and drawing his fword, threatened any who dared refufe
his confent with death.
Thus was Don John proclaimed Protestor by the mul-
titude, though in oppolition to the fenfe of the majority
of the nobles. The prudent ufe, however, he made of
power, foon gained him great reputation. Enabled by a
liberal education, and a difcerning mind, to difcriminate
the abilities of men; he made choice of his counfellors
folely for their talents and virtues, regardlefs of every con-
iideration of birth or title.
In order to increafe his popularity, he caufed the pro-
perty of thofe who fled the kingdom, or declared in fa-
vour of Caftile, to be confifcated, and diftributed among
his own adherents. And to conciliate thofe who had
H 2 hitherto
52 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
lutlicrto oppofed his meafures, he promulged a general
pardon for all paft offences, treafon excepted ; not con-
ceiving, fays Faria, that to fupport him, was the greateft
of all treafons.
A few months after he was eleded protedlor, the King
of Caftile with a numerous force entered Portugal. Al-
moft every part at his approach furrendered, and acknow-
ledged him as lawful fovereign. Having arrived before
Lifbon, he invefted it for the fpace of five months ; but
a plague which raged among his army, obliged him to raife
the fiege, and depart. Immediately after, the Protestor
was proclaimed King, in the twenty-eighth year of his
age, and received in every part of the kingdom with de-
monftrations of joy.
The retreat of the Caftilians, however, gave the new
King but afhort repofe in the enjoyment of his crown ; for
they foon recruited their armies, and re-entered Portugal
with all the forces of their kingdom.
Don John, underftanding the approach of the enemy,
drew together his troops from Coimbra, Oporto, &c. and
marched out of Guimaraens to give him battle. On the
morning of the fourteenth of Auguft one thoufand three
hundred and eighty-five, he entered the plains of Alju-
barrota, where he knighted feveral gentlemen. The Caf-
tilians
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 53
tilians at firft intended to march diredly to Lifbon, yet,
after feme confultation, they refolved to engage. The
forces on both fides were very unequal ; the Caftilians
are reported to have been thirty-three thoufand ftrong,
and the Portuguefe but fix thoufand five hundred ; be-
fides, the latter had fome local difad vantages.
The Sun was fetting when thefe two unequal armies
engaged ; the Caftilians at the firft charge broke the Por-
tuguefe van-guard, but the King coming up, with his
voice and example fo animated his men, that in lefs than
an hour the multitudinous enemy was put to the rout.
The King of Caftile, who headed his troops, being af-
flided with an ague, was forced to fave himfelf by
flight *.
Moft of the Portuguefe who fided with Caftile, and
were in front of the army, were put to the fword. The
royal ftandard of Caftile was taken, but many pretending
to the honour, it could not be decided by whom. Of the
number of the flain no exad: account is preferved, but it
* Don Laurenzoy Archbifhop of Brag.i, " he faw the King of Caftile at Santerem,
who, according to Cajlera, (the French ♦' who behaved as a madman, curfiiig ;\is
Commentator of the Lufiad,) fought at " exiftence and tearing his beard. And in
the above battle, gives the following ac- " troth, my good friend, it is better he
count of the King of CalHlc's chagrin after " Ihould do fo to himfelf than to us ; the
his defeat, in a letter written in old Portu- " man who thus plucks his own beard,
guefe, to the Abbot of Alcoba9a : <« would be much better pkafed to do fo
" The Conftable hath informed me, that " unto others."
is
54 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
is reported to have been very great on the part of the
Caftilians ; three thoufand of their cavalry are fiippofed
to have periflied, among whom were many perfons of
diflindion.
This is the famous battle of Aljuharrota ; fo called
becaufe it was fought near a village of that name : and
in confequence of which the Royal Monaftery of Batalha
was founded, agreeably to a vow made by the King, im-
porting, that in gratitude to Heaven he would build a
magnificent Convent, if Providence on that day crowned
his arms with fuccefs.
la confequence of this important victory, Don John
was fixed on his throne; yet he loft no time in putting the
kingdom in fucb a ftate of defence, that in future he
fhould have nothing to fear from the power of his rival.
Hitherto he only j^ted on the defenfive, but now he
refolved to affail the enemy in his own country ; and the
better to fucceed in his enterprife, he prevailed on the
Duke of Lancafter to embrace this opportunity of en-
forcing his title to the crown of Caftile, to which he pre-
tended to have had a legal title, in virtue of Conftance his
lady. Accordingly the Duke landed at Gallicia, with two
thoufand cavalry, and three thoufand archers. His two
daughters, celebrated for their beauty and accomplifh-
ments, accompanied him. The elder, named Philippa, was
3 married
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
55
married to the King of Portugal, and Catherine, the
younger, to the King of Caftile's eldeft fon. In confe-
quence of which, hoftilities ceafed between all parties, and
the Duke returned to England.
A period of flx-and-tvventy years had elapfed without
hoftility between the two rival Powers; during which time,
the happinefs of his people, and the inflrudlion of his
children, folely occupied the attention of Don John. Con-
vinced of the fuperiority which he himfelf derived from a
liberal education, he refolved that his fons £hould inherit a
limilar advantage, and hence he became their preceptor.
Of the effecfts of his inftrudion, the annals not only of Portu-
gal, but of all Europe, bear teftimony. He had the felicity
to live to fee them attain the age of maturity, unrivalled
in every manly accomplifhment. To one of them, named
Henry, the world is indebted at this day for the fource
of all the modern difcoveries in navigation. But of this
hereafter.
The vldlorlous King John at length overcome with age
yielded to the flroke of Fate, in his feventy-fixth year, and
the forty-eighth of his reign. No prince was ever blefled
with more domeftic happinefs, or more beloved by his
people. He was a deep politician, a bold commander,
kind to his friends, and haughty to his enemies. It is
true, he raifed himfelf to the throne by many a6ts of
cruelty, difgraceful to human nature; a6ts which no vir-
tuous
i6
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
tuous man would perpetrate for an empire ; yet when he
obtained the objed of his ambition, he fupported his
power, not by tyranny, but by the exercife of thofe
virtues which conftitute the happinefs of a people. At
times, however, he had recourfe to feverity *, when the
affuaging and popular arts, in which he was eminently
fkilled, proved ineffedual. The free and affable manner
in which he received all men, gained him many friends ;
for he pretended not to affe6l the pride of a monarch,
though he never funk below the dignity of one. The
nobility dined every day at his table, and after his ex-
ample cultivated and encouraged polite literature. To the
poor he was a protestor and benefactor ; and true merit
was never more liberally rewarded in Portugal, than during
his reign.
Of his extraordinary prowefs, all Hiflorians bear tefli-
mony ; and his effigy, which is over his tomb in the Con-
vent of Batalha, faid to have been fculptured after Nature,
feems to corroborate the fadt ; for it reprefents him as a
man of uncommon mufcular ftrength. His helmet and
battle-axe are alfo preferved here. I was not a little fur-
• Here Is a ftriking inftance of it : A
{gentleman of the bed-chamber, named
Don Ferdinand Alonzo, tliough a favourite
with the King, was apprehended for mak-
ing too free with Donn Beatrh:, one of the
Queen's ladies. Alonzo made his efcape
from the officers, and took fan£luary in a
church, affirming that he was privately
married to her. But the King, whofe
ruling paffion was jealoufy, came ia per-
fon, and dragged the unfortunate lover to
the flarnes. The lady was banlflied to
Callile, her native country.
pri
ifed
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 57
prifed on examining the latter ; perhaps there are but few
men of this age could wield fuch a ponderous weapon *.
Indeed, he appears to have realized the ideas that Shake-
fpear and Agrippa entertained of the vigour of thofe children
born out of wedlock ; for, as we before obferved, he was
the natural fon of Don Pedro by a Galician lady. " The
*' beds of adulterefles (fays Agrippa) have brought forth
*' the moft illuftrious heroes in the world ; as Hercules,
"Alexander, Ifhmael, Abimelech -f, Solomon, Conftan-
" tine, Clodoveus king of the Franks, Theodorick the
*' Goth, William the Conqueror, Raymond of Arra-
*' gon, &c."
As a further teftimony of this Prince's perfonal ftrength,
take the following anecdote, which we give on the autho-
rity of a Portuguefe gentleman. Don John was fo fecure
in the afFedtions of his fubje6ls, that he frequently walked
abroad without any attendants. In one of his morning
perambulations, he chanced to obferve an old man, who was
lame and blind, at the oppofite £de of a rivulet, waiting
till fome one came to guide his fteps over a plank thrown
acrofs it. As there was no one at hand but the King,
he inftantly approached, threw him on his fhoulder, and
carried him in that poflure to the next road. The poor
* Engravings of the above-mentioned f De Soufa, the Portisguefe Hiftorian,
battle-axe and helmet may be feen in the compares D^n John to Abimekch.
Author's defcription of Batalha,
I man.
58 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
man, furprifed at the eafe with which he was carried, ex-
claims, *' I v/ifli Don John had a legion of fuch ftout
*' fellows to humble the pride of the Caftiliuns, who de-
" prived me of the ufe of my leg."
Here, at the requefl of the King, he gav^e a (hort ac-
count of the feveral actions in which he had been engaged.
In the fequel his Majefty recollected that this was Fon-
feca, the brave foldier, who had courageoufly fought by
his Ude in the memorable battle of Aljubarrota, that fixed
the crown on his head. Grieved to fee him in fuch a
diftrefled flate, he defired him to call next morning at the
royal palace, to know how he came to be neglected by his
• fervants in power. Who JJjall I i?iquire for f quoth the
brave Belifarius. " For your gallant companion at the:
" battle of Aljubarrota i" replied the King, departing..
A perfon who at a diftance witnefled the fcene, fhortly
•after accofted Fonfeca, and informed him of what his So-
vereign had done. "Ah!" faid he, (when he recovered
from his furprile,) " I am now convinced of the truth of
" what has often been afferted, the fhoulders of monarchs.
*' are certainly accuftomed to bear great burthens. I re-
" joice in having devoted the prime of my life to the
" fervice of one who, like the Prince of Uz, is legs to th&
^' lame, and eyes to the blind."
Contiguous
/-.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 59
Contiguous to the tomb of the Founder are four
mural fepulchres of very elegant workmanfhip, in the
Gothic manner, containing the remains of his fons, Pe-
dro^ Henry^ yoh?^, and Ferdinand. Firft, of
Prince Pedro.
This Prince was Duke of Coimbra and Monte Mor^
Knight of the order of the Garter, &c. During the mi-
nority of Don Alfonfo the Fifth, his nephew and fon-in-
law, the government of the kingdom devolved to him ;
and all the Hiftorians of that country allow, that the law
was never difpenfed with more impartiality, or better
tempered with mercy, than during his adminiftration,
which continued eleven years.
Nor was he lefs eminent as a ftatefman, than as a ge-
neral and a traveller. He diftinguiflied himfelf in various
engagements in Africa, where he headed an army of Portu-
guefe againft the Moors. He alfo fignalized his valour in
Germany againft the Turks, under the ftandards of the
Emperor Sigifmond.
On account both of his voyages and eloquence, he was
called the Ulyflcs of his age. In the year one thoufand
four hundred and twenty-four he fet out from Portugal,
and fpent four years in travelling over a great part of
1 2 EuropCj
6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Europe, Afia, and Africa. Travels at that time bein^
very rare, efpecially among perfons ot his rank, his ad-
ventures gave rife to many fabulous reports. Faria fays,
that he wrote feveral books, but doss not mention their
tides, nor could v^e obtain any intelligence on that head,
fo little are they known at prefent ; if they contain matter
of information, we truft they will no longer be with-held
from the Public.
Don Pedro having furnifhed the annals of his country
with the brighteft examples of vvifdom in the cabinet, and
courage in the field, was put to death by the King his
nephew, at the inftigation of fome of his favourites, whom
he offended when he held the adminlftration of public
affairs. The rafli, giddy King foon repented his having
deprived the world of fo great a man ; but by inverting
the order of juftice, his repentance came too late : he firft
ordered him to be flain, then gave him a fair trial ; and
on being found innocent of the alleged offence, he endea-
voured to expiate his own guilt, by publifhing the inno-
cence of Don Pedro to the world, and giving his remains
an honourable interment in the Monaftery of Batalha.
Prince
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL,. gj
Prince Henrys
Seems to have been born for the good of mankind ;
*' born to free them from the foeodal fyflem, and to give
to the whole world every advantage, every light that may
pofTibly be diffuled by the intercourfe of unlimitted com-
merce." With all the noble accomplifliments that ele-
vate human life, he poflcfTed the amiable talents that em-
bellifh it. His motto, 'Talent de bien faire, was verified
in all his a<5lions, which were invariably diredled to the
happinefs of his fellow-beings. The fpirit of navigation,
which had hitherto {lumbered on the ocean, under his
aufpices fpread her wings, and fought the remoteft fhores.
The King his father, having fubdued his neighbouring
enemies, prepared to crown the return of peace with grand
feftivals ; in the courfe of which he purpofed to confer the
honour of Knighthood on his fons. But as they juftly
confidered that this diilindlion ought to be the reward of
well-earned merit, they mutually agreed to reprefent to
his Majefty, that the treafure he refolved to expend on
that ceremony, would be employed to greater advantage
in the field of battle ; wherein they would have an oppor-
tunity of evincing to the world, that they m.erited his in-
tended diftindlion. The refult of the prudent remon-
ftrance was the capture of Ceuta, where they were
1. knighted
Ci TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
knicrhted by the King, amidft the acclamations of the
army.
The prironers whom the fortune of war had thrown into
his power on that event, experienced a bountiful mafter;
and Henry had the good fortune to find among them
fome Arabians who had travelled over feveral parts of the
Eaft. Their information contributed to enlarge the fphere
of his knowledge in cofmography, his favourite ftudy, to
which he had now totally religned himfelf. And in order to
avoid all interruption, he retired to a folitary village named
Sagres, in the kingdom of Algarve. Here, like the great
Newton, he lived in perpetual celibacy, cultivating all
the noble fciences. " And here, where the view of the
ocean infpired his hopes and endeavours, he ereded his
arfenals, and built and harboured his fhips ; leaving the
temporary buftle and cares of the ftate to his father and
brothers."
" Having received all the light which could be dif-
covered in Africa, he continued unwearied in his mathe-
matical and geographical ftudies. The art of fhip-build-r
ing received very great improvement under his diredlion ;
and the truth of his ideas of the ilrudure of the terra-
queous globe are now confirmed. He it was who firll
fuggefted the ufe of the compafs, and of longitude and
■latitude in navigation, and how thefe might be afcertain(?iJ
^ by
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 6^
by aftronomical obfervations : fuggeftions and difcoveries
which would have held no fecond place among the con-
je6lures of a Bacon, or the improvements of a Newton."
Prince Henry for upwards of forty years profecuted
his difcoveries along the coaft of Africa. Puerto Santo
and the Madeira I Hands were the fir ft fruits of his enter-
prife. The Azores and Cape Verd Iftands were alfo dif-
covered by him, and his commanders, after traverfing the
coaft: from Cape Bojador to Siera Leona, a diftance of three
hundred and feventy leagues, pafled the Equinodial Line,
and failed as far as the Ifland of Saint Matthew, which
is in the fecond degree of South latitude.
" The Prince, now in his fixty-feventh year, yielded
to the'ftroke of Fate, in the year of our Lord one thoufand
four hundred and fixty-three, gratified with the certain
profpe6t, that the rout to the Eaftern world would one day
crown the enterprifes to which he had given birth. He
had the happinefs to fee the naval fuperiority of his
country over the Moors eftabliflied on the moft folid bafis,
its trade greatly upon the increafe, and, what he efteemed
his greateft happinefs, he flattered himfelf that he had
given a mortal wound to Mahommedifm, and had opened
the door to an univerfal propagation of Chriftianity and
the civilization of mankind. And to him, as to their pri-
mary author, are due all the ineftimable advantages which-
ever have flowed, or will flow, from the difc: very of the
greateft
(34 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
greatcft part of Africa, of the Eaft and Weft Indies.
Every improvement in the ftate and manners of thefe
countries, or whatever country may yet be difcovered, is
ftridly due to him ; nor is the difference between the pre-
fent ftate of Europe, and the monkifli age in which he
was born, lefs the refult of his genius and toils. What
is an Alexander, crowned with trophies at the head
his army, compared with a Henry contemplating the
ocean from his window on the rock of Sagrez ! The
one fuggefts the idea of the evil daemon, the other of a
tutelary angel *."
The cumbent effigy of Prince Henry, which is feen on
his tomb, is dignified with a royal crown ; for, according
to De Soufa, he was elefted King of Cyprus ; he was alfo
Mafter of the order of" Chrift, Duke of Vifeu, and Knight
of the Garter. This Pharo of navigation has been cele-
brated by the Hiftorians and Poets of every nation in
Europe. The Prince of the Portuguefe Bards has paid
the following tribute of praife to his memory, in which
iiiis brother Don Pedro above mentioned is alfo included ;
Tlluftrious, lo, two brother-heroes (hine,
Their birth, their deeds, adorn the royal line ;
To every king of princely Europe known,
In every court the gallant Pedro fhone.
* See Mickle's Hidory of the Difco- covery of Madeira, kc. From thefe Au-
-very of India. See alfo Father de Soufa's thors we have extraded the above mc-
Defcription of Batalha, Faria's Hillory of moirs.
Judia, De Barroi's Account of the Dif-
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 6j
The glorious Henry kindling at his name,
Behold my failor's eyes all (parkle flame !
Heniy the chief, who firft, by Heaven infplred,
To deeds unknown before, the failor fired ;
The confcious failor left the fight of {hore,
And dared new oceans, never ploughed before.
The various wealth of every diftant land
He bade his fleets explore, his fleets command.
The ocean's great Difcoverer he fhines j
Nor lefs his honours in the martial lines :
The painted flag the cloud-wrapt fiege difplays ;
There Ceuta's rocking wall its truft betrays.
Black ya-CTTis the breach ; the point of many a fpear
Gleams through the fmoke ; loud fliouts aftound the ear.
Whofe fl:ep firft trod the dreadful pafs ? whofe fword
Hew'd its dark way, firft with the foe begor'd ?
'Twas thine, O glorious Henry ! firft to dare
The dreadful pafs, and thine to clofe the war.
Taught by his might, and humbled in her gore.
The boaftful pride of Afric tower'd no more.
Lnfiad, book vili.
Our Britifh Bard, in defcribing the ftate of Europe at
the commencement of the fifteenth century, thus cele-
brates Prince Henry ;
For then, from ancient gloom emerg'd
The rifing world of trade : the Genius, then.
Of Navigation, that in hopelefs floth
Had flumber'd on the vaft Atlantic deep
For idle ages, ftarting, heard at laft
The LusiTANiAN Prince, who, Heaven-infpir'd,
To love of ufeful glory rous'd manldnd.
And in unbounded commerce mixt the world. Thomfon,
K
$6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Don yohn.
Of this Prince there is nothing very remarkable on
record ; he was mafter of the order of St. James, and
Lord High Conftable of Portugal. On the pannel of his
fepulchre are reprefented branches bearing wild ftrawber-
ries, a pouch, and fhells. The two latter appertained to
his order, and De Sou fa fuppofes he adopted the former,
as an emblem to exprefs his devotion for the glorious
Baptift, who lived on wild fruit, and on account of his
name being John»
Don Ferdinajid,
After gaining many viftories in Africa, laid flege tO'
Tangier, in company with his brother Henry, where the
Moors furrounded them, and all the Portuguefe under
their command, amounting to feven thoufand. The
forces of the enemy are faid to have been fix hundred
thoufand. The Princes, in order to extricate themfelves
and their men, offered to deliver up Ceuta, on condition
that they fhould be allowed to return home. The enemy
gladly accepted the offer, and demanded one of the bro-
thers as an hoflage for the fulfilment of the terms, where-
upon Prince Ferdinand offered hirafelf, and was accord-
ingly detained.
When.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Sj
When the account of this difafter reached Lifbon, the
Government was much divided in opinion. The King was
willing to comply with the terms, to redeem his brother,
but the Court, feconded by the Pope, urged the neceflity of
keeping Ceuta, as a check on the Infidels. In the mean
time, large funis were propofed for the ranfom of the
Prince, but in vain.
Don Edward, who had now afcended the throne, find-
ing negociation fail, refolved to releafe his brother by force;
but juft as he was about to embark with a formidable
army, he was feized with a plague, and died ; leaving
orders with his Queen to deliver up Ceuta for the refcue
of his brother. This, however, was never performed ;
fb that the unfortunate Prince ended his days in cap-
tivity.
The piety of his manners, and the magnanimity of his
behaviour, made Don Ferdinand the objedt of univerfal
regret; and this regret was heightened by the cruel treat-
ment he received from the Infidels. His virtues and
patient fufferings became a fine fubjedl for writers of ro-
mance, and they have not failed to draw the tear of com-
paffion in many a pathetic tale. Ferdinand is reputed a
Saint in Portugal to this day. The friars of Batalha com-
memorate his anniverfary with grea:t folemnity on the fifth
of June.
K 2 On
68 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
On the fepulchres of the above Princes, and alfo that
of the King their father, are fculptured i7i mezzo relievo
various devices, charadteriftic of their refpedive adtions or
difpofitions. They had likewife, for the fame purpofe,
their refpedive mottos : they are written in the French
language ; becaufe, as De Soufa tells us, that language
was much efteemed in their time, and very current among
Princes, on accounttof its courtefy and politenefs. The
mottos are as follow :
King John I., - - II me plait pour bien,
Don Pedro, - - Deftr.
Don Henry, - - Talent de hien fairs.
Don John, " ' J^ ^^ ^^^^ raifon.
Don Ferdinand, - ~ Le bien me plait.
King Edward.
This Prince was the eldeft fon of John the Firft, whom
he fucceeded on the throne. His effigy, with that of
his confort Leanor, are on a tomb at the foot of the
great altar of the church. He reigned but five years and
one month : in this fhort period the kingdom experi-
enced many difafl:ers, both from the wars of Africa and
the plague, which raged thoughout the country ; to the
latter he himfelf, with many of his fubjedls, fell a facri-
fice. In his adminiflration he was juft, and rendered the
5 country
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 69
c6untry confiderable fervice, by reducing the laws to a
regular code, and commanding the nobility to look after
their eftates. A fimilar ordinance would not, perhaps, be
injurious to the health or fortune of the prefent nobility
of Portugal.
According to the Portuguefe Hiftorians, Don Edward
was one of the moft accompliflied men of his time ; he
fpoke and wrote Latin elegantly, and was author of feveral
books. We cannot fay much for their merit, for they
are fcarcely known at prefent ; his memory could not
preferve them from finking into oblivion. The writings
of Princes are fubjedl to the fame fate with thofe of
the humbleft of their fubjedls. Faria mentions one of
thofe books, and but one, a treatife on horfemanfliip.
Perhaps the author's kinfman. Prince Alfonfo, fon of John
the Second, who is interred in the Chapter-houfe, never
read that treatife, or he would not have loft his life by
bad horfemanfhip.
King yohn the Second.
In one of the chapels at the Eaft end of the church is
depofited the remains of John the Second, without a mo-
nument, or even an infcription. But his adtions will per-
petuate his memory, when the proudeft monuments are
funk into diift. His corpfe remains, from the time of
its
^o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
its interment, in one thoufand four hundred and ninety-
five, to this day, uncorrupted, though it was not embalmed,
nor prepared to withftand that diflblution which aWaits on
mortality : whether this proceeds from the nature of the
difeafe of which he died, (an haemorrhage, fuppofed to
be brought on by drinking of the water of a poifoned
fpring near Evora,) or from any antifeptical properties of
his coffin, or both, the naturalift can beft determine.
There are fome, I am aware, more devout perhaps than
philofophic, who attribute this phenomena to the Mo-
narch's fanftity. I fhould be forry to difturb fo harmlefs
an opinion.
If the charafters of Princes are to be eftimated by the
fervices they render mankind, this Monarch has great
claims on the gratitude of pofterity. His court was con-
fidered as the Lyceum of Europe. The learned and in-
genious men of the times flocked to it, and were en-
couraged in proportion to their talents, the only recom-
mendation to his munificence. **
Nor did religious opinions rife as a barrier between real
worth and royal favour ; in the circle of his ftatefmen,
phylicians, and miffionaries, were to be found Jews of
diftinguifhed abilities ; for, to do juftice to the Ifraelites of
Portugal, they have in general been remarkable for fidelity
and attachment to their King and country, before the
eflabliOi^
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. yr
eftablifhment of that inaufpicious tribunal that has thinned
the nation of its inhabitants, and reared the balilifk of
perfecution on the ruins of the temple of humanity.
His profound knowledge of mathematicks fuggefted to
him, that a (horter and fafer way of navigation than
iiitherto known was not impradlicable. The learned men
of his court took the problem into confideration, and cul-
tivated it with fuch fuccefs, that the world is indebted to
them for the invention of the Aftrolabium *, and the firfl
tables of delineation for the ufe of pilots.
By thefe inventions he was enabled to enlarge the boun-
daries of his dominions. Various difcoveries were now
made under his aufpices, along the coaft of Africa, whence
his fleets returned laden with the moft valuable produdls
of thofe countries ; but what gave him the greateft fatif-
fadiion, was the opportunity thefe difcoveries afforded him
of propagating the light of the Gofpel. We may conceive
what progrefs he made in converting the Africans, by the
numbers that were baptifed in the kingdom of Congo
alone, which (if there be no miftake in the calculation)
amounted to an hundred thoufand.
* Tht AJfrolabium is an inftrument by of John the Second. Martin of Bohemia^
which are afcertained the altitude of the one of the mod celebrated mathematicians
Sun, and diftance of the Stars. It is of that age, is fuppofed by fome to have
faid to have been invented by Roderigo alTifled them.
and Joze, two Jew phyficians at the court
Anxious
72 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Anxious to carry the peaceful banners of Chriftianity
ftill farther, he difpatched Bartholomew Dias on that ex-
pedition in which he made the iirft difcovery of the Cape
of Good Hope ; a difcovery which infpired him with the
livelieft hopes of difplaying his enfigns on the banks of
the Ganges.
The better to fucceed in his defigns, he difpatched
Pedro Covillam and Alo?ifo de Fayva over-land into India,
for fuch information as they could obtain of the ftate of
that country ; hoping thereby to facilitate his intended
expedition to the Eaft. Having travelled together as far
as Toro in Arabia, they parted, and took different routs.
Covillam^ after viliting Cananor, Calicut, Goa, Sofala,
Mozambique, Quiloa, Mombara, Melinda, &c. returned
to Grand Cairo, where he heard of the death of his com-
ipanion. Shortly after their departure from Lifbon, the
King difpatched a Jew, named Rabbi Abrahajn^ a native
of Baja in Portugal, upon the fame errand ; he met at
Cairo with Covillam^ who fent him home with every in-
telligence that he had acquired in thofe countries, and he
himfelf proceeded to Abyflinia for further information,
but unfortunately was never heard of more.
The flattering accounts the King received from the Jew,
ftimulatcd his natural propenfities to difcoveries \ but,
alas ! he was obliged to fufpend his meritorious projeds
for
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 73
for his perfonal fafety and the quiet of the kingdom.
The Duke of Vifeu, at the head of a difcontented party,
conrpired againft his life. His Majefty having efcapcd the
hand of the affaflin three different times, fent for the
Duke and walked with him in a garden, where he con-
verfed with him on the relative duty of the King and the
fubjed:, and at the end put this emphatic queftion to him,
" What would ft thou do unto the man who attempted to
" take away thy life?" To which the Duke anfwered,
" I would take his firft, if I could." " Then verily," faid
the King, " as Nathan faid to David, Thou art the man !"
and immediately plunged a dagger into his breaft.
This was the Prince to whom Pope Alexander the
Sixth, out of the plenitude of his generofity, prefented
one half of the globe, to put an end to the difpute be-
tween the Crowns of Portugal and Caftile, relativ^e to the
fovereignty of the Ocean. Here was the manner his Holi-
nefs adjufted the bufinefs : he meafured one hundred
leagues to the Weft ward of the Cape Verd Iflands, from
which point he ordered a line to be drawn from pole to
pole : then taking his fpiritual fedor, he divided this
round O into two parts, and gave the Eaftern hemifphere,
with all its lands and feas, to the King of Portugal ; the
other he prefented to the King of Caftile ; interdidling, at
the fame time, all but the fubjedls of the two Crowns to
vifit thofe parts, under pain of excommunication. But
King John, not fatisfied with his fhareof the orb, infifted
L that
74 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
that his rival was entitled, not to a hemifphere, but to a
fegment. The Minifters of the two contending Powers at
length met, and decided the bufinefs, \yy extending the
line of feparation two hundred and feventy leagues farther
to the Weft, than his Holinefs had appointed.
Leiria,
One of the moft ancient cities in Portugal, is fituated
on the banks of the river Lis, in the midft of a fertile
country, finely diverfified with hill and dale. The foil
is fo productive, that with little labour it yields abun-
dance of corn, grapes, and olives ; yet with all thefe ad-
vantages, both the plough and the loom are negledted ; no
wonder then that an air of fadnefs and defolation is vifible
in every ftrcet.
The remains of a palace *, formerly the refidence of
King Diniz, furnamed the Hufbandman, ftill makes a
confpicuous figure, on the brow of a precipice contiguous
to the town. It is impoflible to furvey thofe veftiges,
» A great part of that palace is thought bearing a figure of a b^ll on the re-
to have been built of the fragments of an verfe, finely executed. The name perhaps
ancient city called Callipo,' which Hif- fhould be written Calliope. As it was a
tory (liews to have once flouriflied near Roman city ; it might have been fo called
this place. I faw a gold coin that was after the mother of Orpheus, and Mufe of
lately found there among the rubbilh, Epic Poefy.
w^ithout
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 75
without emotions of honour and veneration for the me-
mory of a Monarch who ftudied the intereft of his country
and of the human race, by his havdng wifely converted
the fpear into the plough-fhare.
When King Diniz had fecured the tranquillity of his
dominions, he turned his attention towards the cultivation
of the foil : his firfl ftep towards the accomplilhment of
this great object was to reftrain the feudal fyftem, under
which the wretched peafantry had long groaned ; and the
better to promote his favourite purfuit, he eredled farm-
houfes in every part of the kingdom, which he vidted in
rotation, and diftributed gratuitoufly all kinds of imple-
ments of agriculture among the hufbandmen, whom he
conlidered as the pillars of the ftate, and the peaceful
companions of Nature.
Portugal, which now-a-days does not annually pro-
duce fufficient corn for three months home confumption,
was conlidered in his reign as one ot the firft granaries
in Europe. This fcarcity, as fom.e have erroneoully fup-
pofed, is not to be attributed to any change in the foil,
(for that is permanent, if any thing terreflrial can be
called permanent,) but to a great change in the fentiments
of the people. The modern Portuguefe, contrary to the
maxims of their anceflors, feek for wealth far from Lu-
fitania, in the deep mines of the Brafils ; whiift they
forget that more fubftantial wealth may be found in
L 2 their
76 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
their native fields, and that within fix inches of the fiir-
face. King Diniz was fo well afiTured of the truth of
this, from the knowledge he had of the productions of
the country, that he never had occalion to apply to his
neighbours for the necelTaries or luxuries of life ; it even
fupplied him with gold and filvcr. He had a magni-
ficent crown and fceptre made of gold colledled on the
fands of the Tagus.
But, alas ! even the moft exalted charaders are taxed
by, humanity with fome imperfedlion. He is charged,
like our illuftrious Henry the Second, with too great a
paflirm for the fair fex. He had not, however, the fame
apology for departing from his conjugal ties as the Britifh
hero ; for his Queen pofTefled every virtue that can adorn
her fex. Far from vifiting the fins of the father upon the
children, fhe took all his illegitimate offspring (who were
not a fewj under her protedlion, and had them educated
with as much care and tendernefs as her own. And thus,
by her patient and meek behaviour, we are told that fhe
prevailed on him to abandon that vice at a good old age.
This pious Queen was canonized in the reign of Philip the
Fourth ot Spain.
There is one noble inflitution of Don Diniz ftill extant,
which will ever bear teftimony of his wifdom ; that is, the
celebrated Univerfity of Coimbra, which he founded in
the year one thoufand two hundred and ninety-one. He
J 3 alfo
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 77
alfo planted the foreft at Marinha, which is one of the
moil: exteniive in Europe. Portugal has, and ftill con-
tinues to derive more advantage from thefe fettlements,
than from all the vidories of King Emanuel. Camoens,
fenfible of the merits of fo great a Prince, has paid the
following tribute to his memory :
Now brave Diniz reigns, whofe noble fire
Befpoke the genuine lineage of his Sire *.
Now heavenly peace wide wav'd her olive bough,
Each vale difplay'd the labours of the plough,
And fmil'd with joy : the rocks on every Ihore
Refound the daihing of the merchant-oar.
Wife laws are form'd, and conftitutions weigh'd,.
And the deep-rooted bafe of Empire laid.
Not Ammon's fon with larger heart beftow'd f,
Nor fuch the grace to him the Mufes ow'd.
From Helicon the Mufes wing their way ;
Mondego's flow'ry banks invite their ftay.
Now Coimbra fhines, Minerva's proud abode ;;
And fir'd with joy, Parnaflus' bloomy God
Beholds another dear-lov'd Athens rife,
And fpread her laurels in indulgent flcies. . Luftad^ book iii.
* King Diniz was the eldeft fon of families and nobility of Spain. A few
Alfonfo the Third. He was born at Lif- days before he returned home, a Caftiliaa
bon on the 9th of O£lober i2f)i. gentleman obferved, whilft he was at din--
■}- The liberality of Diniz became pro- ner, that his Majefty's munificence ex-
verbial. When he was appointed as arbi- tended to every one except himfelfj upon
trator to compofe the difference which which Diniz defired him to. take the only
fubfifted between the Kings of Caftile and prefent he had left of what he had brought
Arragon, he made the mod valuable pre- with him ; that was, the filver table upon
fents ever known in his time to the royal which he dined.
- There
yt TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
There is a confiderable fair held annually in the city of
Leiria, on the twenty-fifth of March. It was much crowd-
ed with dealers, who expofed to fale various, articles of
Englifli manufad:ure, particularly woollen cloths of a fe-
cond quality, and hard-ware of every kind. The prin-
cipal articles furnifhed by the natives were plate, jewellery,
linen cloths, and pottery ; the quantity of the former was
very great, but more to be valued for the weight than the
workmanfhip.
In a confpicuous part of the market, two French Char-
letans ereded their booths j one a doftor, the other a
dentift. The latter ftood on a table, and performed feats
of empiricifm that aftonifhed the gaping crowd ; and in
reality his dexterity in tooth-drawing was very remarkable,
they feemed to fly from their rooted focket at the touch
of his finger. He affured me, that he expedted to earn a
moidore a day during the fair, though he charged the
poor but ten reis a tooth.
The dodor, who vended his pmiacea under an adjoining
fhed, had not fo many patients as his companion, nor were
his abilities fo apparent to the vulgar, though he bore all the
external marks of a perfon of deep refearch ; he was fhort-
fighted, pale, meagre, and wrinkled as a rib-flocking ;
yet thti^ fapient i?tdices were lofl on the multitude. His
long and fuccefbful practice, he faid, had enabled him to
condenfe
TRAVELS IM PORTUGAL.
n
condenfe the whole pharmacoposla into one medicine,
which (though in fad: but a fimple falve) he applied in-
difcriminately to all complaints, whether chronical or
acute ; and
** With this he cur'd both poor and rich,
" Yet was himfelf all over itch."
A ftranger has an opportunity of oblcrving the per-
fonal ftate of the inferior clafs of this diftrift, from the
number of peafantry who flock annually to the fair. Their
appearance in general indicates more happinefs than is pro-
mifed by the uncultivated ftate of the land. The men
wear {hort brown jackets, and boot s of the fame colour ;
each carries a ftaff about feven feet long, which he wields
in combat with great dexterity.
The women wear long clokes, of a red or pearl colour,
fringed with ribands ; their necks and wrifts are orna-
mented with gold chains.
The former fex are remarkably low of ftature and feeble,
which fome attribute to their eating too much oil : but if
that operated as the caufe, we ihould exped to find the
females affeded by it in like manner : whereas it is juft
the reverfe ; for they are ftrong, well-proportioned, and
though but of a moderate fize, yet when ranged with the
men they look like Amazons, and if they poflefled their
gallantry or warlike fpirit, they might transfer the diftaff
3 to
So TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
to their hufbands, and lord it over them like the women of
Metelin.
In the Cathedral of this city I witnefled a fpedlacle very
humiliating to our nature. It was on a Sunday, during
divine fervice, when a woman, about the age of iive-and-
twenty, poffefled of an evil fpirit, as it was fuppofed, en-
tered the church. The Sacriftan con dueled her before one
of the lateral chapels, where fhe flood with her mouth
open, making a hideous noife, which feemed to iffue from
the ve7iter. The painful fenfations her eyes and coun-
tenance expreffed, excited the commiferation of all the
congregation \ but I could find none capable of giving
any fatisfaftory reafon refpedling the caufe or nature of
Jier diftemper.
May 28th. The feafon now arrived in which the
people are entertained with buU-feafts. After an abfence
of fome weeks I returned to Leiria to fee the diverfion,
and was furprifed to find the effedl it had on the inhabit-
ants, particularly the lower clafs, who, with every de-
monftration of joy, teftified their attachment for that
favourite amufement. The combat was exhibited in a
quadrangular area, or fquare, formed by the houfes in the
middle of the city. The fpe<Stators were accommodated
with feats gratuitoufly in the balconies of thefe houfes,
whence they had a complete view of what was pafling in
'i^o^ arena.
About
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 8i
About three o'clock the diversion began, when one of
the bulls rufhed into the arena, fmarting with the wounds
he had received in the ftable, which were juft fprinkled with
pickle. The combatants were about iixteen in number,
each holding a fpear or dagger in the right hand, and a
cloak of red filk on the left arm. The enraged animal
now ran at one of them, who, notwithftanding the danger,
flood firm and undaunted till the bull dropped his horns
to gore him, then he moved on his left foot from behind
the cloak, and plunged a dagger into his neck.
The greater part of the exhibition was but a repetition of
fuch attacks ; as here they have none but pedeftrian per-
formers, of whom there were two who excelled the reft
in courage, execution, and adivity ; one was a Spaniard,
the other an African. Each of them, in more than one
inftance, difpatched a bull at the firfl onfet, by aiming
his dagger in a tender part between the horns, in confe-
quence of which the animal inftantly dropped, and was
not feen afterwards to betray the Icaft fymptoms of life.
The moft hazardous part was executed by a perfon who,
unarmed, attacked one of thefe bulls. He threw himfelf
between the two horns, and grafped the animal about the
neck ; in this pofture he was carried about the arena, till
difengaged by the united afliftance of all the combatants,
who overthrew the bull, which, in this inflance, agreeably
to the rules of the feaft, became their property.
u When
82 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL,
When they found a bull that was ftronger and wilder
than the reft, they protrafted his exiftence longer than
ufual, amidft the moft excruciating tortures that ingenious
cruelty could devife. The body was pierced in various
parts, and a number of broken fpears ftuck into the flefh.
Whilft the poor animal was thus bleeding at every pore,
feveral tubes, filled with fquibs and rockets, were faftened
to darts and plunged into the body. As foon as thefe
were fet on fire he ftood in the midft of the arena, tearing
up the ground and bellowing, whilft clouds of fmoke
(which he inhaled in breathing) iftlied from his mouth
and noftrils.
Though there are many enlightened people in Portugal
who do not approve of thefe barbarous entertainments,
yet the common people are fo attached to them, that it
would be. very difficult to abolifh them immediately. By
degrees, however, they might be put an end to, and fome
manly, generous diverfion introduced in their ftead ; civili-
zation, it muft allowed, would lofe nothing by the ex-
change, and humanity would rejoice at it.
We fhall conclude this fubjecS with a fhort extract from
a letter of Mr. Upton's, refpedting Spenfer's Fairie ^eefie.
" In the tenth book of Hcliodorus you will find that
" Theagenes both tamed and rode on the back of a wild
*' bull. We have at Oxford now, a very valuable monu-
*' ment of this ftrange kind of fport. — This was a fport
*' to
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cc
cc
cc
cc
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. S3
to inure the youths to warlike exercifes, ufual at Thef-
faly, and by C^far brought to Rome. But as Dr. Pri-
deaux has aheady treated of this fubjedt in his Dif-
fertation upon the Arundel Marbles, I fhall only add,
that the modern bull-feafts in Spain feem plainly to be
derived from this ftrange exercife and fport ; firft be-
gun by the Centaurs, who, from their hunting and
driving away the herds of their neighbours, had their
original names ; then a public paftime among the
ThefTalians, afterwards among the Romans, and at laft
ending in Spanifh bull-fcaft."
Marmha Grande.
Here I fpent the month of May, at the hofpitablc feat
of William Stephens Efquire, the proprietor of an ex-
tenflve glafs manufactory, which he eftabliflied at this
place about thirty years ago. The kingdom and its co-
lonies are fupplied from hence with every article of glafs-
ware, bottles excepted. It is the only fadtory of the kind
in Portugal ; and the glafs imported is very trifling, as the
duty laid on it amounts almoft to a prohibition. The
greatefl: inconvenience attending this fabrick, is its diflance
from Lifbon, which is about nineteen leagues. The ware
M 2 i*
84 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
is fcnt tliitlier by carriers, who occupy three days in the
journey : but this inconvenience is compenlated by the
local advantages Marinlia Grande pofTeffes in wood, fand,
and kelp.
There is a noble foreft of pine-trees computed at thirty
miles in circumference, at a fhort diftance from this place.
This forefl was planted by the good King Diniz, for the be-
nefit of pofterity, and has fince remained the property of the
crown. Previous to the difcovery of America, the Portu-
guefe drew all their fhip-timber from hence ; at prefent
there is very little ufe made of it, except what Mr, Ste-
phens ufes in his glafs-houfe, who has the privilege of
felling the decayed trees.
The land about Marinha Grande is very unproductive 5
the greater part of it is a wafte of marfh or fand. Mr»
Stephens has reclaimed about thirty acres, which were
covered with fand; and he affures me, that it now yields
feven or eight abundant crops of lucern every year, though
for ages paft it did not yield a blade of grafs.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. By
The following Paper, for which I am indebted to the-
gentleman above mentioned, may, perhaps, be iifeful to
thofe who are interefted in the culture of Bees :
y^n Accou7it of the Man?ier of treatwg Bees in Portugal.
*' To form a colony of Bees, a fpot of ground is chofen
for the hives, expofed towards the South or South Eaft,
well fheltered from the Northern blafts, and furrounded
with fhrubs and flowers ; of the latter, the beft is rofe-
mary. The richer the neighbouring grounds are, the
better ; for Bees are faid to range for food to the diftance
of a league from their homes. The fituation being chofen,
lanes muft be cut through the fhrubby thickets of five or
fix feet wide. The fences between the lanes fhould be
about the fame dimenfions, and formed at intervals into-
fmall recefles, like bowers or niches, ta receive the hives.
*' The figure of the hives ufed here in general are cylin-
drical ; in height about twenty-feven inches by fourteen
diameter. They are formed of the rind of the cork-tree,
and covered with a pan of earthen-ware inverted, the edge
of which projects over the hive like a cornice. The whole
is faftened with pegs made of fome hard and durable
wood, and the joints flopped with peat. In the front of
the cylinder, at the height of about eight inches, there is>
a fmall aperture where the Bees enter. The in fide is-
3 divided
86 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
divided into three equal divifions, which are feparated by
crofs fticks : here the Bees form their combs or cells.
" When the Bees fwarm, which is ufually in the month
of May or June, the hives are placed to receive them
where they alight. If they defcend on a tree, they are
fhaken off: the perfon who performs this operation muft
not be afraid of them, as they do not commonly fling
unlefs they are irritated ; it will be fafer, however, to
cover the head with a wire-malk, and the hands with
gloves.
" Some Bees are fo wild, that they fly away in attempt-
ing to collect them, but they may be caught again 'in this
manner : a fheet is placed by night on the ground contigu-
ous to the fwarm, and when they alight, the hive is placed
over them, with the entrance Hopped, then the whole is
covered with a fheet, in which they are carried home.
But they fliould not be placed near the hive whence they
had. originally departed.
*' When the time arrives for taking out the honey-
combs, which is generally in the month of June, when
the flowers begin to decay, it fhould be done in the heat
of the day, as the greater part of the bees are then abroad,
but not during a high wind, or at the commencement
of a new or full moon. The hiver muft have his face
and
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 87
and hands defended, as above mentioned, and accompa-
nied by a perfon holding a chafing-difh, with a coal-fire,
covered with moift peat, to make the greater fmoke : this
fmoke being infufed among the Bees from the top of the
cylinder, they fly away, or remain intoxicated at the bot-
tom, then the hive is taken to pieces, by drawing out the
pins. The combs are cut out without deftroying the Bees,
except two cells, which are left around the hive ; and left
the Bees fhould feed on what remains, the incifion is co-
vered v/ith pulverized clay ; after this the hive is put to-
gether as before.
*' The combs fhould not be taken out but when they
are full of honey ; it is rarely good the firft year the
Bees aflemble. In the months of March and Auguft the
wax is taken out, which is lodged in the firft divifion of
the hive, after which the Bees form other combs, and ge-
nerate a young colony.
** The hiver fhould often vifit the ground, and repair
any accidents that have happened. If fnakes frequent the
place, they ftiould not be killed, fince they do not moleft
the Bees, but deftroy the toads and lizards, which are
obnoxious to them.
*' When the hives are decayed, they are taken afunder
and fumigated J then the Bees forfake their habitations, and
take fhelter in an adjoining hive, previoufly prepared for
II that
8^^ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
that purpofe. This fhoiild be performed in the Spring,
■when the flowers begin to open and afford them fuccour.
The fame method may be ufed in taking out the honey ;
but if repeatedly pradifed, it will extinguifh the colony.
" As the Bees, in returning from their excurflons, are
loaded and fatigued, there fhould be nothing near the
hives to obftrud their defcent, which is not in a perpen-
dicular courfe, but in an oblique one."
Royal Monafiery of Alcohaqa.
The Royal Monaftery of Alcoba5a is feated in a pretty
village of the fame name, about fifteen leagues North of
Lifbon ; it is well fheltered, particularly towards the Weft,
by rifing grounds, which gradually afcend to an immenfe
elevation. Every part of the neighbouring country is
well cultivated, and produces corn and fruit of various
kinds.
In examining the origin of the religious ftru£lures of the
twelfth century, we find the greater part of them have
been founded in grateful remembrance of fome divine
favour in battle, or elfe with a view to expiate the fins of
the founder ; fo that they may not be improperly called
the temples of gratitude and repentance. This magni-
ficent
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 89
ficent flru6lure is indebted for its origin to the former
caufe. It was founded in the year one thoufand one hun-
dred and feventy, by Alphonfo the firft King of Portugal,
in confequence of taking the fortrefs of Santerem from
the Moors, the capture of which he previoufly vowed to
commemorate by a Monaftery.
Faria relates, that St. Barnard (who at this time redded
in Claravallis in France) being infpired with the King's
pious determination, fent two Monks to begin the Mo-
jiaftery on the very day the vow was made. It is further
obferved, that the lite originally intended for it, is not
that on which it is built; as the lines were laid out to dig
the foundation clofe to the road, an Angel came in the
night and carried them feveral feet back, to a more eligible
iituation. This remarkable circumftance is reprefented in
a large painting, to be feen at this day in the gallery of
the Hofpitium.
The fame Angel would have done a laudable adlon,
by extending a limilar adl of kindnefs to the parifli church,
which is raifed oppoiite to the Monaftery, in the centre of
the high-road ; a Iituation better adapted tor a triumphal
arch than a houfe of worlhip.
Miracles of this fort, though rarely known in our days,
were not, it feems, uncommon in former times. We are
allured by very grave Writers, that when Conftantine the
N Great
90
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Great intended to transfer the feat of empire to the EaR,
he pitched on Chalcedon for the fite of his Capital ; as the.
workmen began to lay the foundation of it, certain eagles,
the ancient meflengers of Jove, carried away the lines,
and let them fall over Bizantium; upon which the Em-
peror altered his refolution, and built his city ^^'here it
now ftands.
It is much to be regretted, that thefe guardians of ar-
chite6lure do not pay a vilit to London ; very few of
the citizens would be forry to hear that St. Clement's
church in the Strand was numbered among the above
mirac
les.
But to return to our fubjed : This Monaftery might be
faid to commemorate three remarkable events ; viz. tlie
origin of the Portuguefe Monarchy, the commencement of
the Bernardine order of Monks, and the introduction of a
new fpecies of architefture into that kingdom, which our
antiquaries call Modern Norma?! Gothic. The Church is
entirely built in this ftyle, except the Weft front, which
is more modern than the reft, and exhibits a feledtion of
the defeds of the Tufcan and Gothic ftvles.
On entering the Church at the Weft front, one is ftruck
with the grandeur of that general effedl peculiar to the
inftde of Gothic Churches, but very few poffefs that
property to a higher degree than this. The profped at the
8 Eaft
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
91
Eaft end is terminated by a magnihcent Glory, placed over
the altar, at the diftance of three hundred feet from the en-
trance ; but the apparent diftance is confiderably more, on
account of the narrownefs of the nave, and the regular fuc-
ceflion of the pillars, which are twenty- fix in number ; that
is, thirteen at each fide. The longitudinal diftance from
the centre of one pillar to that of the other is but feventeen
feet three inches : according to the rules obferved in the bell
proportioned Gothic edifices, this diftance is too little by
one-third. The proportion of the pillars is likevvife de-
fedtive ; their dimenfions being greater than the impulfe
of the vaults require. Indeed, the archited: appears not
to have been acquainted with the kx minimutn in con-
ftrudlion, which experience or fcience taught his fucceflbrs
in this art. On the whole, there is very little difference
between the architedlurc of this ftrudure and that called
Ancient Norman, or Saxon, except that the arches, in-
ftead of being femicircular, as in the latter, are pointed ;
in other refpe6ts we obferve the defedlive proportions and
rude fculpture of the Saxon churches in every part : the
capitals, in particular, are almoft plain blocks ; the bafe*;
of the pillars have but few mouldings • the ribs of the
vaults and architraves of the windows want that depth
and fharpnefs which produce an air of lightnefs.
The Eafl end, or choir, is of a femicircular form, after
the manner of the ancient Churches, or Bafilifks, and which
the Abbe Fleury fuppofcs to have been made in thatman-
N 2 ner
<)a TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
ner by the Chriftians, to imitate that part of the Jewilli
Temples where the Sanhedrim affembled.
The Gothic work which formerly decorated the choir,
is now concealed by Grecian columns, with their ap-
pendages. This alteration was made about eighteen. years
ago by an Englifh fculptor, named William Elfden, at the
requeft of the Friars. Nothing can be more difgufting
to every admirer of antiquity, or indeed any man of the
leaft tafte, than this jumble of Grecian work, patched up
in the moft ftriking part of a ftrudlure, executed in the
fimple Gothic manner.
As the Church of Alcoba9a is one of the earlieft fpe-
cimens of the modern Norman Gothic in Europe, and per-
haps the moft magnificent of the early period in which
it was founded, we fhould be glad, were it not foreign to
our fubjecl, to give a more particular account of its archi-
te<5lure, and to illuftrate the fame by engravings. We
fhould then be enabled to make it appear, that the con-
iedlures refpefting the origin of the Gothic ftyle are not
warranted from this edifice^ as we find nothing in it that
has the moft diftant refemblance to bowers or groves, to
Moorifli or Saracenic architecture, whence the pointed
arch is fuppofed to be derived.
The Weft front of the Monaftery, including the churcli,
which is in the centre, extends fix hundred and twenty
feet J
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 93
feet, the depth is about feveii hundred and fifty feet.
The inelofed fpace is occupied by dormitories, galleries,
cloifters, &c. A Portuguefe Writer, in fpeaking of the
magnificence of this Monaftery, obferves, that its cloif-
ters are cities, its facrifty a church, and the church a
bafililk.
The better to convey an idea of it, we fiiall give the
dimenfions of fome of the apartments. The kitchen, for
example, is near an hundred feet long, by twenty-two
broad, and fixty-three feet high from the floor to the
intrados of the vault. The fire-place is twenty eight feet
long by eleven broad, and is placed, not in the wall, but in
the centre of the floor ; fo that there is accefs to it at every
fide. The chimney forms a pyramid refting upon eight
columns of caft iron. A fubterranean flream of \Aater
pafles through the centre of the floor, which is occa-
fionally madg to overflow the pavement, in order to^
cleanfe it.
•
Notwithftanding the magnitude of this apartment, there
is not an inch of il unoccupied from morning till night ;
for all the indjftry of the Convent is concentred in it;
the operations are carried on under the infpedtion of one
of the lay-brothers.
The refedlory is ninety-two feet long by fixty-eight
broad 5 the bieadth is divided into three porticos by two
feries
94
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
feries of ftone columns. The tables are placed next tlie
two fide and end walls ; at the extreme end, where the
Prior takes his feat, are two large pidures ; the one repre-
fenting the Lad Supper, the other Chrift and the two
Difciplcs at Emmaus.
We fliould not omit to notice the cellar, as it is one of
the moft valuable apartments belonging to the Monaftery ;
there are forty large caflcs in it, which are fuppofed to
contain near feven hundred pipes of wine.
It is very remarkable, that thefe people, avowedly
afiembled for the purpofe of ftudying as well as praying,
have not a library in their convent, "unlefs that deferves
the name of one which is not larger than a clofet, and
fcarcely contains as many books as there are pipes of wine
in the cellar.
The North Weft wing of the Monaftery is fet apart for
the reception of ftrangers ; hence it is called the Mofpitium^
the whole extent, which is two hundred and thirty feet, is
diftributed into ftately and convenient apartments. In
the anti-rooms are fome good pidiures, particularly one of
the Judgment of Solomon, and feveral portraits of Popes
and Cardinals, very well executed, by a PortugJiefe artift
named Vafqiies ; among the latter we find the po.rtrait of
St. Thomas of Canterbury.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
9^
The rooms of flate are furnifhed with the portraits of
the Sovereigns of Portugal, from the commencement of
the Monarchy to the prefent : they have been lately painted
by an artift named A?ittfio Amarel. I am forry that truth
will not allow me to fay that they are well done ; the
painter appears to have been an utter ftranger to light and
fliade, and had but a very imperfect idea of drawing.
There is one portrait here, painted by a Portuguefe lady
named yofepha^ that is worth the whole colledlion.
The above feries of portraits are ranged in the follow-
ing chronological fucceflion :
I. Alfonso I. the founder of
this Monaftery, and the firft
King of Portugal, vixitanno 77,
chit anno
1.
Sancho I,
3-
Alphonso II.
4-
Sancho II,
5-
Alfonso III,
6.
Deniz I.
7-
Alfonso IV".
8.
Peter I..
9-
Ferdinand I
10.
John I.
II.
Edward I.
12.
Alfonso V.
II85.
121 I.
1223.
1248.
1279.
1357-
1367-
1383-
1433-
1438.
I 481.
13. John II.
14. Emanuel I, - -
15. John III.
16. Sebastian I. - -
17. Henr-y I. - -
18. Philip II. ofCaftile, -
19. Philip III.
20. Philip IV.
21. John IV.
22. Alfonso VI.
23. Peter II.
24. John V. -
25. Joseph I. - -
26. Queen Maria I. born 17th
December
chit ^nno 1495.
1521.
1557-
- -1578.
1580.
1598.
1621.
1665.
1656.
1683,
1706.
1750.
1777-
1 734^
In the apartment called the Hall of Kings, are feveral
Statues of the Sovereigns of Portugal, made of Plafter of
Paris, feme placed in niches, and others ftanding on corbels
at
«(
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
at the height of eight or nine feet. The name of the artift
I do not remember ; nor perhaps will it ever be found
regiftered in the catalogue of the imitators of nature.
The third day after my arrival here, I was conducted
by -two of the Fathers up feveral flights of flairs to the
Novices apartment ; on entering the gallery I found about
a fcore of them, between the age of fourteen and eighteen,
drawn up in a line, like a fquadron of foldiers ; they ftood
in a reclined poflure, with their eyes fixed on the ground,
whilft their Superior, called the Fadj-e Mejlre^ ftood op-
pofite to them, with a book in his hand. I was not a
little furprifed to find that the prefence of a ftranger did
not induce any of them to raife his head.
The Novices chapel contains one of the fineft colle6lion
of pidlures in the kingdom. I had only time to exa-
mine a few of them attentively (without trefpafling
too much on the patience of the Fathers) ; one was a fmall
figure of a Madona, fuppofed to be painted by Titian :
it is certainly in his manner ; the colouring is exqui-
fite, and though thinly laid on, the effed: is grand and
forcible, from the artful manner in which the different
tints are contrafted. Strangers, I underftand, are but
feldom allowed to vifit the Novices apartments, other-
wife I would have taken a catalogue of this valuable
cjollcdion.
From
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
97
From thence I pafled to the oppofite fide, through a
corridore, at each fide of which is a range of fmall cells,
belonging to the Novices, who had now retired into them ;
the dimenfions of each might be about fourteen feet by
nine. I wifhed to fee the infide, but was told the Su-
perior had the keys. In one of the doors was a fmall
aperture, through which I obferved a graceful youth, of
a pale and macerated countenance, about the age of fix-
teen ; he was drefled in a long black robe, on his knees,
in the ad: of prayer, with a rofary in his hand ; his eyes
were fixed on a crucifix. The walls about him were with-
out pictures, or any other ornament ; and, left the view
of external objects fhould interrupt the courfe of his me-
ditation, there was but one fmall aperture in the cell to ad-
mit day, and that was placed next the cieling ; the bottom
and fides of it were fplayed fpmewhat like a loop-hole,
fo that the rays of the evening 'Sun, which now fhone
through it, fell on his tonfure, whilft all about him ap-
peared in fhade. Had Raphael transferred the fupplicatory
objeft to the canvafs, he could not have chofen light better
adapted to produce a grand effed.
It is not my intention to interfere with the dodrine of
the church, relative to the extinction or regulation of the
palTions ; I fhall only obferve, that if obedience and foli-
tude are foremoft in the clafs of virtues, great mufl be the
reward of thefe probations.
o In
9$ TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
In order that the Fathers might want for nothing that
contributes to the convenience or happinefs of the mo-
naftic life ; they are accommodated with a large garden
at the rear of the church, which is planted with trees and
fhrubs, and diftributed into pleafant walks. Here they
recreate themfelves every afternoon. At intervals there are
arbours formed in the thickets, and furniflied with benches,
where the Friars retire from the heat of the Sun, to ftudy
or meditate. In the centre of the garden is a fine oval
pond, of an hundred and thirty feet on the tranfverfe dia-
meter, with an obelifk in the centre of it.
There are various cyprefs trees at the farther end of the
garden, the leaves of which are ingeniouJJy formed by the
{hears into figures reprefenting men ; fome in the aft of
{hooting, and others praying ; fome with long cues, and
others with perukes. This fpecies of fculpture, though
hitherto not clafled among the branches of the fine arts,
approaches the neareft to Nature, perhaps, of any other ;
for thefe Sylvan figures abfolutely grow, and are daily fed,
with the produce of the foil. They have their Winter
and Summer, Spring and Autumn, their exiftence and
diffolution, like other animated beings.
Contiguous to the above garden there is a rabbit-warren
belonging to the Monaftery, upon a conftrudion different
from any I had ever fecn. It is two hundred feet long by
I an
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
99
an hundred and twenty-five broad, inclofed on every fide
by walls about fixteen feet high. The floor is paved with
large fquare flags, and. the joints filled with cement.
There are little flieds ranged along the foot of the wall,
where oval earthen pots are placed, of eleven inches in
depth by nine inches in height. The front of each has
a round tube through which the rabbit enters ; here they
breed, and. rear up their young ones. On the area of the
warren are alfo feveral ranges of pots, apparently fet apart
for the male rabbits. The whole, which are faid. to
amount to five or fix thoufand, are fed with plants brought
from the neighbouring fields and gardens, together with
the offals of the Convent.
The Fathers of this Convent, like thole we before
mentioned at Oporto, are not allowed to appear on foot
out of doors, except in the gardens belonging to their
Monaftery ; fuch as have occafion to go abroad travel on
mules, or in carriages ; they have a number of thefe ani-
mals in their ftables, which it feems they prefer to horfes,
but for what reafon I could, not learn, perhaps from mo-
tives of humility ; for Guevara tells us, that till his time,
it was a mark of difgrace in Spain for a gentleman to ride
on a mule,
John the Second of Portugal, finding the breed of horfes
nearly extind, endeavoured to revive them in his domi-
nions by prohibiting the ufe of mules. The clergy re-
o 2 fufed
loo TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
fufed to comply with the ordinance, and appealed to the
Pope to juftify them. But the King, not willing to fall
out with this clafs of his fubjedts, on confideration,
thought it prudent to revife the edi<ft, and inferted a
claufe allowing all the clergy within his dominions to keep
mules, but ordained at the fame time that no one fhould
fhoe them, under pain of death. Thus he filenced their
objedion, and gained his point.
The reader will eafily conceive what a vaft revenue it
requires to keep up this inftitution, wherein there are
about three hundred people, including fervants, living in
a fplendid manner. But the royal founder took care to
provide for all contingencies ; for at the moment he vowed
to build it, he endowed it with all the land and fea that
can be feen from the fummit of a neighbouring mountain,
which commands a wide horizon. The revenue arifiing
from this vaft traft of country renders Alcoba^a one of the
richeft and moft magnificent inftitutions of the kind, not
only in Portugal, but in Europe.
Of late years fome of its privileges have been reftrained ;
many people, however, are of opinion that it ftill poffeffes
too many. They alfo think the revenue is too great, from
an idea that wealth promotes feafting more than praying.
But during a refidenee here of near three weeks, I could
perceive no juft grounds for fuch remarks ; on the con-
trary, I found the greateft temperance and decorum,^
lo blended
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. loi
blended with hofpitality and cheerfulnefs, prevail in every
part.
Each Father holds his rank according to feniority or elec-
tion. The junior Friars are very refpedlful and fubmiflive to
their fuperiors, and all are obedient to the Abbot-general,
w^ho prelides as chief. This prelate has no fpiritual fuperior
in the kingdom, except the Cardinal ; he holds the rank of
a Bifhop, is Almoner to the King, and Chief of all the
Monafteries and Nunneries of the Bernardine Order in
Portugal. The office is eledive every three years. This
is the fecond time the prefent worthy General has ferved in
that capacity.
Every ftranger who viflts the convent is fure to meet
with a polite and hofpitable reception. Many youths of
the diftridl are maintained and educated by the Fathers.
The fuperfluities of the refectory are diftributed among
the poor; befides, there are pittances purpofely prepared
for them twice a week j fo that hundreds of indigent
people are conftantly fed at their gates ; and their tenantry
are apparently as comfortable as any in the kingdom.
Thofe who declaim againft their opulence, would do well
to inquire, whether there be a nobleman or gentleman in
Europe, pofleffed of a revenue equal to that of this Mo-
naftery, who difFufes fo many bleflings among his fellow-
beingfs as the Fathers of Alcobaca.
In
102 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
In the archives of the Monaflery is preferved, among
feveral other facred utenfils, a gold chalice of exquifite
workmanfhip, which has excited the curiofity of fome
learned and ingenious men. It is ftudded with many pre-
cious ftones of divers colours, and ornamented with feveral
groups of beautiful figures in demi reliefs reprefenting the
Paflion of Chrift.
The Fathers can give no fatisfadory account of it,
neither do their records mention at what time it was
made, nor by whom it was prefented ; according to fome,
it was beftowed by King Emanuel, others fuppofe it was
purchafed with the jewels of Dona Ignez de Caftro, who
is entered here ; whilft others conjedlure that it was bought
with the treafure of diamonds and rings, which Alfonfo
the Firft bequeathed to the Monaftery at his death.
Without prefuming to decide which of thefe opinions is
right, I fliall offer the following memorandums for the
confideration of the curious.
On the cup, or upper part of the chalice, arc twenty-
feven emboffed letters, diftributed around the circumfer-
ence in fix divifions, thus :
NETO
VIRHI
ASBM
MIGLK
HOAM
VEDIK
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 103
The foot of the chalice is about nine inches diameter,
and contains an hundred and ten letters, which are diftri-
buted into twelve divifions about its circumference, in the
following order * :
MDSXIB
QVEKIP . THSFCIE
MLDNE
RGATOI . VELTHBE
XIDKMT
RVSNEB. ILCAL
MFOKV
IHPTXV . ESTDMIN
ATVFOL
RHVEBSI . NOPALX
CVIHGI
RMLOEI . NTKVFIL
The Rev. Dr. Bluteau, in a work confifting of various
academical pieces, intitled Pro/as Portuguezas^ has given
a long differtation on thefe letters, wherein he attempts,
though evidently in vain, to afcertain their meaning. As
he was looked upon as an Author of no inconfiderable
m^rit in his time, perhaps his manner of treating the
fubjedl in queftion might apologize for the length of the
following extracts, which we have endeavoured to tranflate
as literally as pollible :
" Upon my inquiring of the Fathers, if they knew
th€ fignification of thefe letters,, they anfwered in the ne-
* As the letters on the neck of the liberty to begin at any fide of the poljf-
chalice are. placed in a hexagon, and thofe gons ; thefe have been copied from left to .
on th€ foot in a duodecagan, we. are at right. .
gative.
I04 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
gative, though many ingenious men had endeavoured to
explain them. This roufed my curiofity to copy the
myfterious charaders, not with a prefumption to decypher
them, but with a view to devote a few leifure hours in
examining them in the tranquillity of retirement.
" Now, on the one hand, I figured to myfelf that all
this metallic literature might be a mere artifice, to attrad:
the curiofity of the ingenious ; on the other, it appeared to
me injuftice to fuppofe, that fuch fine letters fhould have
no meaning, and occupy fo much gold to no purpofe.
But every time I confulted the curious about the inter-
pretation of them, we became more entangled than the
Argonaut in the Golden Fleece, which, according to fome,
was likewife an enigma of golden letters. In this per-
plexity, as I had not, like Jafon, a Medea to condud: me
through the maze, I conceived that the caballiftic art
alone would giv^e a thread to guide my fteps through this
labyrinth.
" Cabala^ or Kabhala^ a Hebrew word, which fignifies
reception^ is derived from kibbel^ which means delivered^
or taught. Thefe two etymologies are verified by the ap-
plication of the word caballa ; for in ancient times caballa
was the fcience of inftrud:ing without books or writings,
and was communicated by fuccefiive tradition delivered
'uiva voce*
" Between
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 105
" Between the Caballa of the modern and ancient He-
brews there is a wide difference : that of the latter was
a noble myflerious dodrine, promulged by Mofes. In
confirmation of this, Celio Rhodiginio fays, that Mofes
received two laws on the Mount ; one literal, which he
wrote by order of God, and prefented to the eyes of the
people ; the other fpiritual, which he revealed to feventy
of the Elders, And we know that thefe people had fuc-
ceflively, from one to the other, transferred the myfteries
of their fublime do£lrine ; whence they called it Mercava^
that is to fay, the fcience of transfej'rmg. It had for its
objedl all things appertaining to intelledlual matters.
" By means of this fecret communication the fons were
made heirs of their fathers' ineflimable treafures of divine
fcience, and not only the Hebrews, but alfo the Chal-
deans, Pythagoreans, and Druids, (ancient Philofophers
of Gallia,) for the fpace of many centuries, were ini-
tiated in an occult manner into all fpiritual matters, with-
out books or writings. By the Greeks it was called Agra^
J)hay now it is known by the original name Caballa. But
as time perverts all things, the Hebrew Do6lors infenfibly
loft fight of this occult fcience, and by ill-placed curiofity,
their Theologifts degenerated into Herefiarchs, their Af-
tronomers into Judicial Aftrologers, their Logicians into
Sophifts, their Natural Philofophers into Alchymifts, &c.
and thus the fpeculative purfuits of the Hebrev/ Dodors
p dwindled
io6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
dH^indled into what they call Allegories ; hence the name
Allegorical Caballifts, or Allegorifts.
" Thefe Caballifts taught their followers, that the al-
legorical fenfe of writings is much fuperior to the literal,
in as much as the latter is pradlical, whereas the other is
fpeculative ; the pra6lical being embarraffed with circum-
ftances of place and time, whereas the fpeculative exalts
the foul to the knowledge of temporal, celeftial, and
eternal objeds, which are the images of the Divine im-
mutability.
*' Finally, Allegorifts afcertain Caballas by the obferva-
tion of letters, in which, after a great deal of labour, they
fcarce produce any thing worthy of notice.
*' The laft Caballa is divided into Gametria^ Noiarka^
and Themura. The firft afcertaining the words by the
tranfpolition of the letters ; the fecond fuppofes each
letter to ftand for a word, or explains one word by ano-
ther which contains an equal number of letters. And the
Cahella 'Themura^ which is likewife called Ziruph^ con-
fifts in interchanging the letters, and then fuppofing each
of them to be equivalent to certain other letters.
" The two latter will not anfwer my purpofe, becaufe of
the number of letters of the chalice, and becaufe they are
i8 only
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 107
only ufed where there are but few letters, as may be in-
ferred from the follovvino; inftances :
" In the fecond verfe of the third Pfalm, where we
read Multi infiirgmit adverfu7n me^ the Caballa Nota-
rica decyphers the word Multi^ and fhews that in the
Hebrew language it is written with R, B, I, M ; which
chara6ters, after much fpeculative inquiry, are fuppofed
to be the initials of the names of the Romajis^ Baby-
lonians^ Io7iianSy and Medes. In a iQ.vf letters this Ca-
balla might be applied ; the Romans made ufe of it in
their epitaphs and other infcriptions, as we find by the
letters S, P, Q^ R, which mean Se?iatus Populufque
Rojnanus.
" This Caballa has given rife to fome curious conjec-
tures on the four letters of the name ADAM, which
are interpreted to be the initials of the four quarters of
the world ; viz. Anatoli^ which in the Greek fignifies
the Eaft, Dyfis the Weft, A7-Eios means the North,
and Mefcfnbria the South, or Mid-day. Thus, with a
myfterious brevity, the name of the firft Monarch is a
cabaliftical indication of the four parts of his empire.
" The Caballa Notarica draws f^gnifications from letters
according to the meaning they have in other alphabets,
particularly in thofe where every letter is an entire word ;
as in the Hebrew alphabet Aleph^ Beth, Dahth^ Ghimel^
p 2 t^c.
io8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
c. and in the Greek Alpha, Beta, Gamma, Delta ; and
in many other idioms we may form lines with two or three
letters of their alphabet, as in the Chaldean, for example,
the letter A is called Elpha, in the Syrian, Olaph, or Alyn j
in the Arabick, Turkifli, and Perfian, it is called Aliph ;
in the Egyptian, Athomus ; in the Ethiopian, Alph ; in
the Arminian, Aip ; in the Sclavonian Ale?noxi, and fo of
others.
" The word Aluph, or Aleph, which is the A of
the Hebrews, means Prince ; and for this reafon it was
placed at the head of their alphabet, as the Prince of their
letters.
" The Alpha of the Greeks, in the language of the
Syrians, means an ox. It is related, when Cadmus began
to found a city in Boeotia, he chanced to meet an ox, and
caufed the name of it (Alpha) to be placed at the head
of the alphabet, from the great utility of this animal,
which the Syrians confider as the Prince of the animals of
the field.
" The fecond Cahalla, called Themura, or Ziruph, is
as little to my purpofe as the former. The third Caballa,
called Gametria by the Hebrews, confifls in tranfpofing
of the letters in fuch a manner as to produce iignificant
words ; for example, the twenty-third chapter of Exodus,
verfe the twentieth, is written in the Vulgate Prcecedetque te
Angelus
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, 109
Angeliis ?neus. In the place of Angelus the Hebrew verfion
fays Malachi, and by the anagramatic tranfpofition of the
letters of this name, the Caballifts ihew that Malachi
means Michael ; hence they pretend that the Angel of
whom the Scripture fpeaks in the above place was Saint
Michael."
Our Author next proceeds to fliew the numerous inter-
pretations to which the letters of the chalice are fubjedlt
" When, according to Father Malebranche's Treatife on
Algebra, the combinations of the twenty-four letters of
the alphabet amount to 1 . 391. 721. 658. 311. 264.. 960.
263. 919. 898. 102. 100. *"
Hence he concludes, that the languages ufed all over
the world muft be more numerous than is generally fup-
pofed. '* According to Father Vafconcellos the Jefuit's
account of the Brazils on the banks of the river Amazon,
there are more than an hundred and fifty languages fpoken,
and thefe, we are affured by Father Vieira, are as different
from one another as ours is from the Greek.
* According to T'^f^Kf/, the various com- finitely ftiort of the other two. Here is
binations of the twenty-four letters of the his computation, 5. 852. 616. 738. 497.
alphabet (without repetition) amount to (5(54. 000. So much for the uncertainty
d20. 448. 401. 733. 239. 439. 360. 000. of progrefllve arithmetic, when applie(i to
Clavius the Jefuit has alfo calculated fubje(^s of this nature,
thefe combinations, and makes them in- TranJlaUv's Note,
4-
"If
no TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
*' If to thefe we add the feveral hundred languages
which are ufed among the different nations of the world,
we cannot help a/king with admiration, What is the pri-
mary fource of fo many modes of fpeech ? Whence fo
many flowers and figures of rhetoric ? What repofitory
fupplied the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew idioms ? To
what fource are the Italians indebted for their courteous
and political expreflions ? Wliat Nymph or Mufe infpired
the French with that fweetnefs of di6lion ? What fierce
and fevere warrior gave the Germans their military terms
and frightful vocality ? What Prince, what Potentate
enthroned in Portugal and Caflile the words of a grave and
majeftic eloquence ? Finally, What materials were ufed
by the people of China, Japan, Arabia, Turkey, Margui,
Armenia, Malabar, Bengal, Malacca, the Negroes of
Africa, the Inhabitants of America, and all other nations,
to invent fignificant terms of cuftoms, negociations, com-
merce, trade, tadics, battles, arts, fciences, rites, cere-
monies, religion, and facrifices ?
" This vafl: ocean of literature is ftill further fupplied
by numerous other vocabularies flowing into it, like rivers
into the fea, from proper names and family appellations,
from the various dialeds, and the difl"erent modes of pro-
nouncing the fame language in different parts of a ftate ;
as in the Greek language, the Attic, Folic, Corinthian,
and common dialects : In the Italian language, the dialedls
of
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Ill
of Genoa, Bergamofa, Venice, Naples, Sicily : In the
French, the dialedls of Picardy, Gafcony, Normandy,
&c. J and in the Portuguefe, the particular words peculiar
to Beira, Minho, Alenteju, Algarve, &c. Thefe and the
innumerable other dialedls arifing from the letters of the
alphabet, with the divers words of the mother tongues,
make altogether an ineffable variety of fpeech."
Our Author, after w^andering far from the queftion,.
returns to the fubjeft, and concludes, that the meaning
of the letters of the chalice is this : Hie eft calix faii-
guinis mei^ ?tovi &f (Eterni tcjiame?ttiy qui pro vohis ^
pro mtdtjs efftmdetur. Joakifn Kludphik fudiy Boldtik^
A. Dom, Mil C . LXXXVIL *
* Doflor Bluteau has made fome mif-
takes in copying the letters of tl;e chalice ;
the following, for inftance, NOPALX,
which are on the foot of it, he attributes
to the neck. An anonymous Writer has
given a different interpretation of thcfe
letters in the before-mentioned v/ork,
(Propis PoriugufTMS,) wherein he makes
each letter the i;Titial of a word. And,
in order to make the fciife coincide with'
his meaning, he fubftitutes ideal letters for
real ones, thoivgli perhaps it happened
throi^h miftake. However that was, his-
interpretation of the enigma is, if pofliblc,
more improbable tlian that of. Doctor
Bluteau.
Amon-T
112 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Among the perfonages interred in this Monastery there
are but two; namely, Don Pedro and Dona Igjiez de
Caflroy of whom I could colled any thing remarkable.
We {hall attempt to give a fketch of the hiftory of this
celebrated pair, and then take our leave of Alcoba9a.
Do?i Pedro and Dona Ignez de Cajlro.
Contiguous to the tranfept of the church belonging to
this Convent, there is a Gothic Maufoleum of hewn flone,
in the midft of which are two magnificent fepulchres of
white marble, containing the remains of Don Pedro the
Firft, King of Portugal, and of Dona Ignez de Caftro,
,h,is confor.t.
A cumbent effigy of each, the fize of life, is placed on
their refpeftive tombs ; by which the former is reprefented
with a long beard, a fevere countenance, and in the ad;
.of drawing his fword. The latter is reprefented with a
beautiful innocent countenance ; dreffed in royal robes,
and adorned with the diadem.
There are but few perfonages recorded in hiftory, who
have been oftener celebrated by dramatic writers than this
J'rincefs. There have been no lefs than five tragedies formed
from
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. n
0
from her pitiful narrative ; viz. two in Englifh, one
in French, one in Spanifh, and one in Portuguefe. The
latter, perhaps, approaches the neareft to the truth of
hifLory, and is not inferior in point of poetical merit.
The Author, Senhor Nicola Luis^ had no occalion to
refort to fidion to heighten the pafhons of an audience, as
the fimple fafts are fufficient to fill up all the fcenes of
pity and terror, and to fhew to what lengths love and
revenge are capable of tranfporting the human mind.
The fubjefl of this tragical piece is as follows : Don
Pedro, fon of Alonfo the Fourth, King of Portugal, and
heir apparent to the crown, having fallen in love with a
lady of the court, named Dona Ignez de Caftro, thought
he could not fhare the crown which awaited him with
a more amiable perfon. She united to all the charms of
beauty, the moft graceful and accomplifhed manners. The
Prince, waving all confiderations of birth and fortune, was
privately married to her by the Bifhop of Guarda.
Notwithflanding the nuptials were performed with all the
fecrecy imaginable, yet they reached the King's ear, who
had premeditated a confort for Don Pedro in the King of
Caftile's daughter. He queftioned him as to the truth of
the report ; but knowing his father's arbitrary difpofition,
he thought it prudent then to conceal the fad.
o The
114 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The Nobility alfo had intimation of the marriage, and
the preference given to Igne-z had awakened their jealoufy.
Hence they took every opportunity of reprefenting her
as a woman of the greateft ambition, and pretended that
very fatal confequences were to be apprehended from fuch
an alliance ; they alfo condemned the Prince as a rafh and
difobedient fon.
&>
The King, who was a man of weak underftanding,
gave ear to their calumny, and they worked upon his
pafTions to that degree, that he refolved to murder the
unfortunate Princefs. Accordingly, he fet out to perpe-
trate the horrid deed, accompanied by three of his courtiers
and a number of armed men.
Dona Ignez at this time refided in Coimbra, in the
palace of Santa Clara, where fhe paffed her time in the
moft private manner, educating her children, and attend-
ing to the duties of her domeftic affairs.
The Prince, unfortunately, was abroad on a hunting party
when the 'Kins: arrived. The beautiful victim came out
to meet him, with her two infant children, who clung
about his knees, fcreaming aloud for mercy. She pro-
ftrates herfelf at his feet, bathes them with tears, and fup-
plicates pity for her children, befceching him to banifh
her to fome remote defert, where fhe would gladly wander
an exile with her babes.
3 The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. . 115
The feelings of Nature arrefted his arrrij juft raifed to
phinge a dagger into her breaft. But his counfellors urging
the neceflity of her death, and reproaching him for his
difregard to the welfare of the nation, he relapfed into his
former refolution, and commanded them to difpatch
her ; at which they rudied forward, regardlefs of the
cries of innocence and beauty, and inftantly ftruck ofF
her head !
Soon after the above tranfadtion the Prince arrived ;
but, alas ! found thofe eyes that were wont to watch his
return with impatience, clofed in death. The fight of
his beloved Ignez weltering in gore filled his mind with
diftradtion, and kindled every fpark of revenge within his
foul. In all the agony of rage, he called aloud on the
avenging hand of Heaven to punifii thofe monfters who
deprived him of all he held dear upon earth.
As foon as her remains were interred, he put hinifelf
at the head of an army, who fympathized with his diilrcfs;
they carried fire and fvvord through the adjacent provinces,
and laid wafte the eftates of the murderers. The roval
troops could not oppofe them 3 they fled at the appearance
of the gallant avengers of innocence. But the King,
wretched man ! could not fly from himfelf ; the cries of
his grand-children ftill echoed in his ears, and the bleed-
ing image of their unfortunate mother v/as conftantly be-
fore his eyes. Death at length commiferated his fituation,
CL2 and
ii6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
and he expired full of repentance for his accumulated
crimes. He was an undutiful fon, an unnatural brother,
and a cruel father.
The Prince now afcended the throne, in the thirty-
feventh year oi his age. He no fooner obtained the power,
than he meditated to revenge the death of his beloved
Ignez. The three murderers ; namely, Pedro Coello,
Diogo Lopez Pacheo, and Alvaro Gonfalvez, had fled into
Caftile, previous to the death of the late King. The
Prince ordered them to be tried on a charge of high trea-
fon, and being found guilty, their eftates were confifcated.
Next, he contrived to feize their perfons, by agreeing
with the King of Caftile that both fhould reciprocally de-
liver up the Portuguefe and Caftilian fugitives, who fought
protedlion in their refpedtive dominions. Gonfalvez and
Coello were accordingly arrefted, and fent in chains to
Portugal J Pacheo efcaped into France.
The King was at Santerem w^hen the delinquents were
brought to him ; he inftantly ordered them to be laid on
pyre that was previoufly formed, contiguous to which he
had a banquet prepared. Before the torch was kindled,
and whilft they agonized at every pore under the moft
lingering tortures, their hearts were cut out, one at his
breaft, the other at his back. Laftly, the pyre was fet on
a blaze, in prefence of which he dined, whilft they eva--
porated in flames.
Having
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 117
Having thus far appcaifed his infatiable thirfl: of revenge,
he ordered his marriage with Dona Ignez to be publifhed
throughout the kingdom ; then her body was taken out
of the fepulchre, covered with regal robes, and placed
on a magnificent throne, around which his miniilers
affembled, and did homage to their lawful Queen.
After this ceremony, her corpfe was tranflated from Co-
imbra to Alcobaca, with a pomp hitherto unknown in the
kingdom ; though the diftance between thcfe two places
is fifty two miles, yet the road was lined on both fides all
the way, with people holding lighted tapers. The funeral
was attended by all the Noblemen and Gentlemen in
Portugal, dreffed in long mourning cloaks ; their Ladies
alfo attended, dreffed in white mourning veils.
The cloud which the above dilafter cad over the mind
of Don Pedro was never totally difperfed ; and as he lived
in a ftate of celibacy the remainder of his life, agreeably
to his vow, there was nothing to divert his attention from
ruminating on the fate of his beloved fpoufe. The im-
prefiion her death made on him was ftrongly chara6lerifed,
not only in the tortures he infiided on her murderers, but
alfo in all the a6ls of his adminiftration, which, from
their feverity, induced fome to give him the appellation
of Pedro the Cruel ; by others he was called Pedro the
Juft : and, upon the whole, it appears that the laft title
moft properly appertained to him.
10 It
ii8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
It muft be allowed, however, that he punifhed fome
offences rather feverely, particularly in cafes of adultery.
In all tranfgreflions of this nature, his laws were more
rigid than thofe of Solon, as will appear by tlie fol-
lowing inftances : He ordered a man to be hanged for
having had communication with a v/oman previous to
his marriage with her. Another, detected in the adl
of adultery, was, with his miftrefs, committed to the
flames. A Friar, who was difcovered to be the fa-
ther of a boy who flruck his nominal father, was put
into a cafe formed of cork, and fawed through the
body.
Now, it is furprifing that Don Pedro himfelf fhould
have been guilty of fins limilar to thofe for which he in-
flided fuch ignominious deaths on others. Yet fuch is the
fa6t : witnefs his amours with Dona Tereza Lorenza, by
whom he had that illuftrious character Don John, the
founder of Batalha. (See page 50.)
Indeed, his manner of punifhing other offences was
Icfs reprehenfible. To give an inftance ; a gentleman
having borrowed fome {ilver utenfils of a countryman,
refufed, after many felicitations, to return the fame; upon
which the lender, finding all other means ineffedlual, ap-
pealed to the King, who made the gentleman not only
return the goods to the owner, but alfo pay him nine
times
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 119
times their value, the penalty to which thieves were then
fubjed: ; and further, made him refponfible for the coun-
tryman's life.
The clergy, who hitherto could not be tried for alleged
offences but by the eccleiiaftical court, he rendered ame-
nable to the common courts of juftice, and punifhed them
with death when their crimes were capital. When folicited
once to revife the fentence of fuch criminals, and to refer
it to a higher tribunal, (meaning that of the Pope,) he
anfwered very calmly, *' I ftiall mofl certainly fend them
** to the higheft of all tribunals, that of the 0?miipote?2t
o
To prevent all tedious litigations, and the baneful con-
fequences attending them, he purged the nation of at-
tornles, and limited the procedure of counfellors in fuch a
manner, that a fult was determined in a few days. And
when the Judge was found guilty of bribery, as was the
cafe in one inftance, he immediately ordered Jilm to be
hanged. In fhort, his inexorable juftice, and indefati-
gable zeal to check the progrefs of vice, were fuch, that
no conlideration of rank, or fortune, or particular privi-
leges, could fcreen the guilty from the fword of the law.
The infinite fervice he rendered the country during the
ten years he reigned, have left a lafting impreilion on the
minds of the Portuguefe. They have ftill a faying among
them.
I20 TRAVELS IN PORTQGAL.
them, that Providefice either JJjotdd not have fcnt PedrOy
or elje not have taken hitn avoay.
It remains for us now to fpeak a few words refpeding
the tragedies that have been formed from the Hiftory of
Ignez de Cafiro. Of the two we have in Englifli, the one,
named Elvira^ was copied from the French of M. de la
Motte. Tlie other is named Liez de Cajlro ; and was pub-
lifhed in the year one thoufand {ix hundred aud ninety-
fix. As the public are already well acquainted with the
merits of thefe two, we fliall notice only thofe written in
the Portuguefe, Spanifli, and French languages. And as
thefe are not, perhaps, generally known among us, we
fhall give a few parallel extrafts from each ; by which
the reader, who is acquainted with thefe languages,
may be enabled to form fome idea of their refpedlive
merits, and of the ftate of the drama in the above na-
tions. The fcene to which the following extradts allude,
is that wherein Ignez^ accompanied by her two children,
is fupplicating the King for mercy the moment before £he
is murdered.
From
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i2t
From ihe Portuguese o/* Nicola Luis.
Jgnez. Pleclade, Senhor,
B-ci, Como poflb livrar-te do caftlgo,
Se todo hum Reino tens per inimlgo.
Ignez, Oh mizera de mim ! filhos amados,
Efpelho em que os meus olhos fe reviao !
*******
Jff. Se accazo nao tern do de minha mai,
Entao nao quero fer ja feu amigo.
Rei. Nao ha remedio, os filhos Ihe tirai.
Alv. e Egas. Vinde, infantes.
Jff. Deixai-me v6s tambem,
Se nao, hei de dizello a meu pai,
Que vos ha de matar com huma efpada.
Tgnez. Meu filhos me lavais : oh defgrafada,
Nao me mateis, Senhor, por tantas vezes,
Tornai eflas rellquias aos meus brayos.
Mas ai ! que intenta a forfa da crueldade
Partir-me a coracao em mil peda90s.
Rei, Ja he multo esfor^ar a tolerancia !
Opprimido, ai de mIm de mortal ancia
I\Ie finto em mal tao forte.
Egas, Alvaro, oh Ceos ! ficai com ella,
Que nao me atrevo a vera fua morte.
Ignez. Com eftes inimigos defliumanos
Me delxais ! que rigor ! foltai tirannos
Soltai os meus infantes : Luzes minhas,
A abrayar-me tornai, neftes retires.
Em voffos lindos roftos,
Recebei os meus ultimos fufpiros :
Mas ja falta o valor, os juflos Ceos !
R Ret.
122 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Rei. Vinde, meus Netos.
pega Jios vicnlnos.
Aff. Mlnha Mai, a Deos,
Que por forfa nos leva noflb Av6.
Igficz. Ah ! meus ternos amores minha glorias,
Quando foubereis ter mais fentimentos,
Funeftas vos ferao minhas memorias.
E vos ingrato a propria humanidade,
Que a vida me tirais na flor da idade,
Vede que apello da mortal fenten9a
Para aquelle Supremo Tribunal
Ond-e reflo fe julga o bem, e o mal :
Vade que mas ai trifle ! a luz do dia
Aos meus alhos fe vai efcurecendo.
Treme o pe mal feguro e da agonia
Me vai ja foffocando o horror tremcndos
Filhos, Filhos, eu morro ! Pedro, Efpozo !
Onde cftas, que em martirio tao penozo,
Nao vens a foccorrer me, ah. homicida,
^ O furor efcuzais, que eflou fern vida.
From the Spanish of Velez d£ Guevara.
Ines. A mis hijos me quitais ?
Rey Don Alonfo, Senor ;
Porque me quereis quitav
La vida de tantas vezes ?
Advertid, Senor mirad,
Que el cora9on a pedafos
Dividio me arancais.
Rey. Levaldos, Alvar Gonzalez.
Jncs. FJijos mios, donde vais ?
Donde vais fin vueftra madrc ?
Faka
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 123
Falta en los hombres pledad
Adonde vais luzes mais ?
Co mo, que affi me dexais
En el mayor defconfuelo
En manos de la crueldad.
Nino Alons. Confuelate madre mia,
Y a Dios de puedas quedar.
Que vamos con nueftro abuelo,
Y no querra hazernas mal.
Ines» Poflible es, Senor, Rey mio.
Padre, que anfi me cerreis
La puerta para el perdon ?
^ % % ^ ^
Como, Senor ? vos os vals
Y a Alvar Gon9alez, y a Coello
Inhumanos me entregais ?
Hijos, hljos de mi vida,
Dexad me los abra^ar j
Alonfo, mi vida hijo,
Dionis, a mores, tornad,
Tornad a ver vueftra madre :
Pedro mio, donde eftas
Que anfi te olvidas de mi ?
Poflible es que en tanto mal
Me falta tu villa, efpofo ?
Quien te pudiera avifar
Del peligro en que afligida
Dona Ines tu efpofa efta.
R 2
Fror*
124 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
From the French of M. de la Motte.
J/tcs. Eh bien, Seigneur, fuivez vos barbares maxlmes j
On vous amene encor de nouvelles vidlimes.
Lnmolez fans remords, & pour nous punir mieux,
Ces gages d'un himen fi coupable a vos yeux.
lis ignorent le fang dont le Ciel les fit naitre :
Par I'arret de leur mort faites-les reconnoitre :
Confommez votre ouvrage ; & que les memes coups
Rejoignent les enfans, & la femme & I'epoux.
Alphonfo, Que vois-je ! & quels dlfcours ! que d'horreurs j'envifage \
lues. Seigneur, du defefpoir, pardonnez le langage.
Tons deux a votre troue ont des droits folemnels.
Embrailez, mez enfans, ces genoux paterneis.
D'un ceil compatifTant, regardez I'un & I'autre ;
N'y voiez point mon fang, n'y voiez que le votre.
Pourriez-vous refufer a. leur pleurs, a leurs cris
La grace d'un heros, leur pere & votre fils ?
Puifque la loi trahie exige une vidlime,
Alon fang eft pret, Seigne\ir, pour expier mon crime*
Epuifez fur moi feule un fevere couroux ;
Mais cachez quelque terns mon fort a mon epoux ;
II mourroit de douleur ; & je me flate encore,
De meriter de vous ce fecret que j'iraplore.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, 12^^
The Reader will not be a little furprifed on comparing
the preceding paffages, to find how inferior the French
Writer is to the Portuguefe or the Spaniard. Both Ltns
and Guevara exprefs the natural feelings of the fair vidim,
and the poignant anguifh which overwhelm her, from the
apprehenfion of being deprived of her children, her lover,
and her life. De la Motte^ on the contrary, gives us the
idea of a daring heroine, regardlefs of all thefe endearing;
confiderations. The two former have very judiciouily
preferved the fpirit of the beautiful Epifode of Camoe?is ;
on which Voltaire has the following remark : II y a pen
d'e^idroits dans Virgile 'plus attendriffa?its &' mieux ecrits
' . There are few parts in Virgil more tender
or better written. Conneiflcd, therefore, as that Epifode
is with our fubjccH:, we (hall add the following extrads
from ir, as tranflated by Mr. Mickle :
Dragg'cl from her boxver by murderous ruffian hands.
Before the frowning King fair Inez ftands ;
Her tears of artlefs innocence, her air
So mild, fo lovely, and her face fo fair,
Mov'd the ftern Monarch ; when with eager zeal
Her fierce deftroyers urg'd the public weal ;
Dread rage again the tyrant's foul polfefl:,
And his dark brow his cruel thoughts confed ;
O'er her fair face a fuddcn palcnefs fpread,
Her throbbing heart with generous anguiih bled,
Her beauteous eyes in trembling tear-drops drown'd,
To heaven fhe lifted, but her hands were bound ;
6 Then'
126 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Then on her infants turn'd the piteous glance,
The look of bleeding woe ; the babes advance.
The lovely captive thus : O Monarch, hear.
It e'er to thee the name of man was dear,
If prowling tygers, or the wolf's wild brood,
Infpir'd by Nature with the luft of blood,
Have yet been mov'd the weeping babe to fpare.
Nor left, but tended with a nurfe's care ;
As Rome's great founders to the world were given ;
Shalt thou, who wear'ft the facred ftamp of Heaven,
The human form divine, fhalt thou deny
That aid, that pity, which e'en beafts fupply ?
Oh, that thy heart were, as thy looks declare.
Of human mould, fuperfluous were my prayer ;
Thou could'ft not then a helplefs damfel flay,
Whofe fole offence in fond affeclion lay.
Ah, let my woes, unconfcious of a crime.
Procure mine exile to fome barbarous clime :
Give me to vvander o'er the burning plains
Of Lybia's defarts, or the wild domains
Of Scythia's fnow-clad rocks and frozen fliore ;
There let me, hopelefs of return, deplore
Where ghaftly horror fills the dreary vale.
Where Ihrieks and bowlings die on every gale,
The lions roaring, and the tygers yell.
There with mine infant race confign'd to dwell ;
There let me try that piety to find,
In vain by me implor'd from human kind :
There in Tome dreary cavern's rocky wonib,
Amid the horrors of fepulchral gloom.
For him whofe love I mourn, my love fhall glow
The figh Ihall murmur and the tear fluall flow*
In
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 127
In tears fhe utter' d — as the frozen fnow
Touch'd by the Spring's mild ray, begins to flow ;
So juft began to melt his ftubborn foul.
As mild-ray'd Pity o'er the tyrant flole ;
But Deftiny forbade : with eager zeal,
Again pretended for the public weal,
Her fierce accufers urged her fpeedy doom j
Again dark rage diffufed its horrid gloom
O'er ftern Alonzo's brow : fwift at the fign.
Their fwords unfheath'd around her brandifh'd fhiae ;
O foul difgrace, of knighthood lafting ftain.
By men of arms an helplefs lady flain I
Inez, while her eyes to Heaven appeal",.
Refigns her bofom to the murdering fteel :
That fnowy neck, whofe matchlcfs form fuftain'd
The loveliefi: face, where all the Graces reign'd.
That fnowy neck was ftain'd with fpouting gore,
Another fword her lovely bofom tore.
The flowers that gliften'd with her tears bedew'd,
Now {hrunk and languifh'd, with her blood imbrew'dj
As when a rofe erewhile of bloom fo gay.
Thrown from the carelefs virgin's breaft away.
Lies faded on the plain, the living red.
The fnowy white, and all its fragrance fled ;
So from her cheeks the rofes dy'd away.
And pale in death the beauteous Inez lay :
With dreadful fmiles, and crimfon'd with her blood,
Round the wan vidim the ftern murderers ftood.
O Sun, covildft thou fo foul a crime behold.
Nor veil thine head in darknefs, as of old,
A fudden night unv/onted horror caft
O'er that dire banquet, where the fires rcpafi;
The
128 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The foil's torn limbs fupplied ! — yet you, ye vales !
Ye diftant forefts, and ye flowery dales !
When pale and finking to the dreadful fall,
You heard her quivering lips on Pedro call ;
Your faithful echoes caught the parting found,
And Pedro ! Pedro ! mournful, figh'd around.
Ltiftad, book Hi.
On the tvventy-fecond of June I fet out for Lifbon, ac-
companied by a muleteer. The evening before my de-
parture I was vifited by the Reverend Abbot-general and
feveral of the Superiors of the Convent ; the former fent
me a prefent of fweet-meats and fcented foap, curioufly
made up in boxes by Nuns of the Bernardine order.
Nothing occurred on our journey the firft day worthy
of noting ; the country was tolerable, the foil rich and
pretty well cultivated, but the accommodations at the inns
were as indifferent as ufual ; yet the maflers of thefe mi-
ferable hovels think them palaces, in comparifon to the
inns in the other parts of the country.
yanua7'y 23. We met a number of peafants employed
in making roads, the margins of which were planted with
olive trees, whofe produce are to be applied to the keep-
ing of the roads in repair. Spheric liin-dials and cifterns
are
.TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ,.9
are ereded at flated intervals for the accommodation of
travellers.
The manners and opulence of the capital had a vifible
effect on the inhabitants in proportion as we advanced.
About one o'clock we arrived at Villa Franca, quite ex-
haufted from the fcorching rays of the fun, to which we
had been expofed {ince five o'clock in the morning. It
was with difficulty we could get any refrefhment, as ail
the inhabitants of the village were gone to fleep.
At five o'clock we embarked in a large pafiage-boat,
and failed down the Tagus towards Lifbon. There were
about fifty paffengcrs on board, divided into two clafles ;
the common people occupied the hold, the reft took their
feats at the ftern. About feven o'clock one of the boat-
men gave the compline lignal, and all returned thanks to
the Lord in a fhort prayer.
Anions: thofe who fat at the flern of the boat was
a man, who had apparently miftaken his rank, if one
may judge by his drefs ; he was barefoot, wore a
long beard, and a pilgrim's fcapulet over the remains
of a Perfian habit : he was about thirty-fix years of
age, of a middling ftature, well proportioned, of a fwar-
thy complexion. I found by his language that he was a
Spaniard. There was fomething in his manners that in-
terefled me very much j his countenance was placid, and
s befpoke
I30 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
befpoke a firmnefs of mind, fuch as we admire in a vir-
tuous man ftruggling with misfortune. I muft confefs
that he excited at once my pity and efteem ; and if Fate
had not placed my lot fo much on a level with his own,
he fhould not want a cloak to cover him, nor a crufade in
his pouch.
When we arrived at Lifbon, I requefted he would per-
mit me to pay his paflage ; he thanked me, faying, " I
" have change fufEcient for that purpofe ; it is true, my
" apparel befpeaks poverty, (looking at his bare feet,)
*' therefore you may be furprifed that I had the prefump-
*' tion to take my feat in your company ; but the true
" Caftilian thinks himfelf degraded or honoured, not by
" his garb but his adions."
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. J31
LISBON.
Notvvlthftanding the city of Li{bon is theconftant refort
of merchants and travellers from ev^ry part of the globe,
yet it feems extraordinary that hitherto we have not been
favoured with any fatisfadory account of its arts, anti-
quity, police, or public buildings. I fhall not attempt
to fupply thefe points ; the utmoft I can promife are a
few curfory remarks on fuch objedts as came within the
narrow fphere of my obfervation, during a reiidence of
ten months in that city.
Lifbon, the capital of Portugal, is feated upon the de-
lightful banks of the Tagus, in the fruitful province of
Eftremadura ; latitude 3 8° 48'. Its diftance from the bar,
where the Atlantic Ocean and the river form a jundtion,
is about feven miles. The harbour is very deep and ca-
pacious, prefenting, to a mind devoted to commerce, one
of the finefl profpedls imaginable, as it is conftantly crowded
with {hips of various nations.
As we approach the capital, the churches, convents,
caftles, villas, and gardens on the North-weft fide, have
a grand and beautiful appearance ; but the ideas of magni-
ficence they excite at a diftance, are greatly diminifhed
upon a clofer infpedion. The country on the South-eaft
s 2 fide
1^,2 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
'J
fide is alfo highly pidurefqiie, from its lofty mountains
and high impending cliffs.
Tlie attention is foon drawn from thefe fcenes by the
appearance of the city, which gradually afcends from the
verge of the river in all the magnificence of wealth and
crandeur. The fite is the mod eligible imaginable for a
Metropolis ; towards the North-weft it is flieltered by a
ridge of mountains, and opened towards the South-eaft.
The buildings are raifed on feven hills, with their inter-
mediate vallics ; the greater part of which command a pro-
fpeft of the river, and of the country on the oppofite iide,
called Alenteju ; any difadvantage, therefore, attending
the inequality of the ground is compenfated by the beau-
tiful profpefts its elevation afford, and its vicinity to the
fea renders it at once delightful and healthy. The nar-
roweft part of the river Tagus, oppofite to the city, is
computed at two miles Englifh, and at the broadeft part it
is not lefs than nine. When we refled; on the advantages
Portugal enjoys in point of commerce, from fuch a mag-
nificent river and commodious harbour, fo happily fituated
for trading with the Eaftern and Weftern hemifpheres, we
cannot but wonder that Lifbon is not fuperior in riches,
magnitude, and population to any capital in Europe.
Here follows an account of the fhips of various nations
which entered the port of Lifbon in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and eighty-nine.
3 from
aEyERAL FLAX
oftlie
CITY of LI SB ON
in tlu' War
* ^^' ^ 4 - , A\- A. -//i\ t
I V Hiis/i'Mi- X..S'".'i/,i.\- yiit,/':'
J SI'MiliiBoiiMittic
.)' (i<in'"i/i>.'i'".'"('i>i>ii<ir< i/i- J:
; Jn.'ili. ■;':•] '..ih,f
I <s' S.Jiiiin (losH, III t'.iiiidin
ij Pnii'ii i/tisFii/'iiiiis
j a; riiuyi itoJiii/i)
Fnui'mMUmTtF' *^
//
(Jioirf,/ ilo r,i/ ilil'cr'.'
11
('<<ii\'."'li S.Fiuii':
«
(olUyio tins yo/inv
■Vi
Pmrif liiis Anr'iiiiif'."'
/.7
{JiMitif i/ii ( 'otoria
■fi
I'nini tin Coiniivin
/J
I'oiir'.'ili- Jiziis
■•'/
Jlfilllih'ijil
/.r
r.u,>':;i,S..'hnfo
''.>
J'niiii ilnRi'i'in
/("Z
/.rlli/lllfll Ks/H I-'"
v>
Pniiii ilii FiilU'iiii
V"
J'mrii iliS.J'iiiilo
-T
I'miti do I'/iniio
■/,s-
J'nir,! i/iKsJii-iiiii/iiii-.i
?.v
S'''t:it,i t/ii Jlhii/:'
"/
I'nuyi ifii l'iii]in S'.''
•,'V
Pitiiii (ills fill iiS
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. iii-iiiiil ilii .Miiiiiilin
.»v»
Pniiii iliis iliiiis Iiji'.'''
■I I
/"
ruUijh.i Miiii li'ijijS. luiCLlell .md f),
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 13-
Portuguefe Ships. Names of Places.
3 from Bengal.
6 Macao.
1 GOA.
2 other ports of Asia.
12 from all Asia.
33 Bahia.
26 Maranhaon.
13 Para.
2 Paraiba.
I Penaiba.
33 Pernambuco.
16 Rio Janeiro.
1 Santos.
2 Cape Verd.
117 various ports of Europe.
6 Men of War.
252 Total number of Portuguese Ships.
Foreign Ships.
75 from AiMERicA.
4 Bermude.
24 Denmark.^
I Geneva.
81 France.
10 Hamburgh.
22 Spain.
64 Holland, including fix Men of War,
6 Triest and Ostend.
5 LUBEC
Carried over 292
J34 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Foreign Ships. Names of Places.
Brought over 292
7 from the King of Prussia's Dominions.
I Russia.
7 Ragusa.
z Sweden.
12 Venice,
219 Great Britain and Ireland, including
29 Packets and 4 Men of War.
€40 Total number of Foreign Ships.
Origin and Progrefs of Lijbon.
The origin of Lifbon, like that of many other cities, is
involved in obfcurity, though many Writers have at-
tempted to develope it, among whom are not a few who
do not, perhaps, deferve to be called Antiquaries ; for
the true Antiquary, like the Mathematician, will not pro-
ceed farther in his inveftigation than he is authorized by
the light of conne6ling fafts and concludve reafoning.
"Some of the above Writers, however, have had the courage
to proceed in the dark as far as the deluge ; but, unfor-
tunately, the more they travel, the farther they appear to
leave the truth behind.
The opinion that moft generally obtains is, that Lifbon
was founded by Ulyffes after the deflrudion of Troy, and
3 received
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 135^
received his name *. However that was, there is no doubt
but a {luation fo inviting muft have been peopled very
early. Its firft inhabitants, according to Pliny, were the
ancient Turtuleans, from whom originated the modern
Turtuleans of Andalufia, a brave and politic people, as
the Celtic and Phoenician tribes experienced in ail their
contefts againft them in Spain. Among the other nations
that fubdued Lufitania, the Romans are fuppofed to have
peopled Lifbon fhortly after they conquered the Cartha-
ginians. It appears that Julius Caefar made himfelf mafter
of it, and diftinguifhed it by the title of Felicitas Juliana^
as may be colleded from various infcriptions found in that
city, which are publifhed in Cunha\ Ecclefiaftical Hiftory
of Li{bon.
* Lufus, the loved companion of the God,
In Spain's fair bofom fixt his laft abode.
Our kingdom founded, and illuftrious reign'd,
In thofe fair lawns, the bled Elyfium feign'd.
Where winding oft the Guadiana roves,
And Douro murmurs through the flowery groves.
Here with his bones he left his deadilefs fame.
And Lufitania's clime fhall ever bear his name.
That other chief th' embroider'd Clk difplays.
Toft o'er the deep whole years of weary days,,
On Tago's banks at laft his vows he paid :.
To Wifdom's Godlike power, the Jov«>-bom maid.
Who fired his lips with eloquence divine.
On Tago's banks he reared the hallowed (hrine :
Ul^es he, though fated to deftroy
On Afian ground the Heaven-built towers of Troy,
On Europe's ftrand, more grateful to the fkies.
He bade tit' eternal walls of Lifboa rife. Lu/lad, book viii-
About
136 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
About the year of our Lord four hundred and nine, the
dominion of the Romans in Lufitania yielded to the in-
vafion of the Alans, Suevi, and Vandals ; and thefe again,
in their turn, in the year feven hundred and fixteen, fub-
mitted to the fuperior power of the Arabians who in-
habited Spain. The latter changed the name of the ca-
pital, which till then was called Ulifipo^ or Lifpo^ to
Lijtboa-j becaufe, fays Caftro, that in the Moorifh alphabet
the letter P is not ufed. Hence comes the word Lijboa^
which we tranflate Lifbon.
The firft check given to the Arabian power in Portugal
■was by Don Alfonfo the Chafte, King of Galicia and
Afturia ; who, with the afUftance of Charlemain, in the
year feven hundred and ninety -eight, invaded Portugal and
invefted Lifbon. The belieged, after a refolute refiftance,
were compelled to yield to the arms of the Chriftian powers.
During a period of near three hundred years, the Chriftians
and Moors alternately retained a tranfitory poflcilion of it,
till at length the latter became tributary to Alfonfo the Sixth
of Caftile, in the year one thoufand and ninety-three.
In this ftate of fubjedion they continued under Count
Henry, the fource of the Portuguefe monarchy, but re-
volted again under his fucceflbr Alfonfo Henrique, the firft
Chriftian King of Portugal. This Prince made many at-
tempts to reduce Lifbon, but in vain. Being one day on
the
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 137
the mountain of Centra he difcovered a fleet, confifting
of near two hundred fail of Englifh, French, and Fle-
mings, under the command of William Long Efpe, mak-
ing towards the Tagus. They were deftined for the Holy
Land, but had touched here to water, and to repair the
damages they received at fea. The King made propofals
to them to aid him in capturing the city ; to which they
acceded ; and the troops on board, amounting to fourteen
thoufand, were drawn up with the Portuguefe forces before
the city. During five months the fiege continued with great
{laughter on both fides, when the confederate troops, on
St. Urfala's Day, made a defperate aflault, and carried the
city fword in hand. According to Farria, the number
of Infidels flain on this day- amounted to two hundred
thoufand.
The mod authentic account of that fiege which, per-
haps, has yet appeared, is contained in a letter written in
the Latin tongue, in one thoufand one hundred and forty-
feven, by a perfon of diftinftion named Arnulfo, who was
on board the combined fleet, to the Bifliop of Terona in
France. It was difcovered among the manufcripts in the
library of the Aquitenian Abbots in France, and is pub-
liflied in the colledlion of Martene and Durand, torn. i. <
Veterum Moftmnentorum^ printed at Paris in the year one
thoufand feven hundred and twenty-four. As that letter,
perhaps, has not been hitherto pubHflied in our language,
we fliall attempt to give a tranflation of it, with the ad-
T dition
138 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
ditioii of Notes, for the fatisfadlion of the curious in the
, mode of attack and defence praclifed in ancient times.
^^ On the Monday after Whitfuntide we entered
the bar of the river Douro, and anchored oppolite to
Oporto. The Bifhop of this city, as if anticipating the
orders of his King, was rejoiced at our arrival. Here we
flayed eleven days, waiting for the arrival of Count Ar-
noldo de Ardefcot^ and Chrijiian the Co7iJlable^ who had
been feparated from us in a ftorm ; during this time we
were plentilully fupplied with provision and delicacies oi'
all kinds through the munificence of the Prince.
" As foon as the Count and the Conftable arrived, we
proceeded on our voyage ; in two days we reached the
Tagus, on the vigils of the Apoflles St. Peter and St. Paul,,
and anchored before Lifbon. This city, which, according
to the tradition handed down to us by the Saiacenic Hif-
torians, was built by Ulyiles after the deftrudion of Troy,
is furrounded with walls of admirable confl:ru6lion, and
has feveral towers upon a mountain impregnable to any
"human force.
" Themoment we landed we began to ere<Sl: our tents,
and, with the Divine afliftance, took the fuburbs of the
city on the firfl: of July. After various afTaults againft the
walls, not without great lofs on both fides, we were oc-
cupied until the firfl of Auguft in preparing machines.
8 *' Towards
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
139
*' Towards the river we erected two formidable towers;
one at the Eaft, in which the Flemings were ported ; the
other at the Weft, of which the Englifh took pofleflion.
We likewife formed four bridges of our fhips ; fo that we
had fix different pofts to attack the enemy.
" On the day of the invention of the Protomartyr
St. Stephen we began to advance and batter with our en-
gines and fliips ; but being repulfed, not only withadverfe
winds, but alfo with the Magnellis * of the enemy, we
retreated with fome lofs. Whilft our men were actively
engaged with the Saracens, the Englifh, with lefs circum-
fpecftion, guarded their tower, which unfortunately was
fet on fire, and thev were not able to extinsiuifli the
flames &
*' Shortly after this we began to batter the walls with
our machines, which the Moors no fooner beheld, than
they poured forth oleagenous fire f-, which almoft de-
ftroyed
* Magnellis. Perhaps thefe were en- upon a principle fome what fimilar to that
gines fimilar to thofe which Du Cange of the balijia.
calls Maiigonellus : — Ji/langonellus diminw \ Oleageiwtisjire. Of the artificial fire
tivum, a tnangana hoc e/}, minor machina ufed in ancient fieges we have many ac-
jaculatoria. De Alezeray, in his Treatife counts tranfmitted to us, but the manner
upon ancient Sieges, fuppofes the Jllan- in which it was prepared is not clearly ex- •
gonelltis, or Ala/igo/ms, to be a general term prefled. The Malleoli mentioned by Vi-
for any engines ufed in throwing (tones truvius, book x. c. 13. are fuppofed to
and darts ; of which there were different have been inftruments filled with artificial
kinds ; as the matafunda, petrary, ttirbuchet, fire, GmiLir to that which was afterwards
ivarwalfy ..and mangana, all conltruded called the Greek wildfire. The Turks
T 2 made
140 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
ftroyed them. They likewife made conllderable havoc
amon"' us with their arrows and magnellis. Our people
were much difheartened from the wreck of the appa-
ratus * and the fall of their companions ; yet, trufting to
the mercy of God, they refumed their courage, and fet
about repairing the engines.
*' In the mean time the belleged were greatly diftrelTed
for proviiions ; not but fome had abundance, yet they
withheld it from the poorer clafs of the citizens in fucha
manner, that numbers of them died of hunger. Some,
to preferve their lives, were conftrained to eat cats and
dogs ; a great part threw themfelves on the mercy of the
Chriftians, and received the facrament of baptifm, whilft
others were fent to the walls, with their hands cut off,
and ftoned to death by their companions. Many other
direful and fuccefsful fcenes incident to war were wit-
neffed by us here, which, to avoid prolixity, we fhall not
detail.
made ufc of this fire in their wars with * Wyeck of the apparatus. The an-
the crufadors, which they emitted from a cieiits, in order to guard the teftudines ufed
machine called Pctiary. It is reported to in filling ditches, covered the planks laid
have burnt fo intenfely, that it confumed over the beams with flender green twigs,
even flint and iron, and could not be ex- clofely interwoven; and over thefethey
tjnguiflied but by a mixture of vinegar, fand, laid doubled raw hides, fewed together, and
and urine. Father Daniel fays, that Philip ftufied either with fea-weeds, or elfe with
Auguftus, King of France, brought a quan- llraw macerated in vinegar, by which
tity of this fire ready prepared from Acre, means tlicy refilled the attacks of the ba-
which he ufed at the fiege of Dieppe, for liftse and fire-brands,
burning the Englifli veflels then in the har- Vide Vitr. book x. c. 20.
bour.
*' On
TRAVELS IxN PORTUGAL, 141
" On the day of the Nativity of the bleffed Virgin
Mary, an Italian of great ingenuity, a native of Pifa,
began to conftrudl a lofty tower of wood, in the place
where the former one was deftroyed, in which the Englifh
had been pofted. This important work was completed
about the middle of Odober, through the bounty of the
King and the exertions of the armies. With equal ex-
ertions another engineer, aflifted by many hands, were
occupied in making excavations, in order to undermine
the wall of the fortrefs. The Moors, apprehenlive oF
thefe operations, fallied out privately, and gave us battle
over the mine, from three o'clock in the morning until the
afternoon on the Feftival of St. Michael.
*' During this time we were warmly engaged with the
Infidels, whilft our archers fo obftruAed their retreat,,
that few or none of them efcaped without being wounded.
Afterwards our people worked by day and night in the-
mines, which were finiflied and propped with wood at the
appointed day on which the tower was to have been brought
up, wherein the King in perfon, with the Englifh troops,
were to attack the walls. On the night of the Abbot
St. Gallo the mine was fet on fire, and when the wood-
work was confumed *, the wall gave way, and made an:
opening of about two hundred feet in length.
" The
* When the •wood-work was confumed.— were generally prepared with combuftible
The props and planks ufed in mines of this matter, fuch as pitch, tar, oil, and alfo
fort for fupporting the incumbent earth, dry faggots thrown loofely about ; fo that
142 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
" The alarm excited by the crafh roufed our people,
they fled to arms, and with fliouts rufhed forward to the
breach, expelling that the guards, who were pofted on the
walls, would have fled : But the enemy advanced in
crowds to defend that part which was difficult to force,
as being on the declivity of a mountain. The contefl;
continued from midnight till nine o'clock the next day,
when our men, fatigued and wounded, withdrew for a
while, till the tower was brought to bear ; now the enemy
was diftrafted.
" The tower, manned with valiant troops, being drawn
up clofe to the wall, the flgnal was made ; our people,
w^ith aftonifhing refolution, charged the enemy in every
part at the fame time. The Lorenefe fought in the breach.
Thofe who were engaged in company with the King in
the tower, harafled with the mag7tellis of the Saracens,
were lefs fuccefsful ; the Moors fallied out, and would
certainly have deftroyed the tower, had not fome of our
men come up and repulfed them.
*' As foon as we had intimation of their perilous fltua-
tion, fome of our befl: battalions haftened to the defence of
the tower, that our hopes might not be frufl:rated. But
as foon as the fire was applied, the whole as were immediately over it. We may
apparatus was Inftantly in a blaze. The readily conceive, that thefe mines muft have
centres being thus confumcd, the earth been pretty broad, or elfe the fuperftrufture
fell in, and likcwifc fuch parts of the wall would ftand independent of the centres.
when
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Hi
when the Saracens beheld the Lorenefe and Flemings fu-
rioufly mounting the rampart of the tower, they became
lb terrified, that they threw down their arms, and offered
to {hake hands, as a lignal of peace, which they now be-
fought.
" In confcquence of this, the Alcaide, or Prince of
the town, fiirrendered, and agreed that our army fhould
take poffefTion of the ftores, together with all the o-old
and filver which he poffeffed; and that the city, with its
inhabitants, and all the land which appertained to it,
fhould be delivered up to Alfonfo. Thus concluded this
memorable ficge, not human, but divine, on the Feftival
of the Eleven Thoufand Virgins, with the lofs of two hun-
dred thoufand and five hundred Moors *."
* " The conqueft of Lifbon was of the
ntmofc importance to the infant monarcliy.
It is one of the finefl ports in the world,
and before the invention of cannon was of
great ftrength. The old Moorifli wall was
flanked by feventy-feven towers, was about
fix miles in length and fourteen in circum-
fe'rence. When befieged by Don Alonzo,
according to fome, it was garrifoned by
an army of 200,000 men. This, not to
fay impofTible, is highly incredible. That
it was ftrong, however, and well garri-
foned is certain. It is alfo certain that
Alonzo owed the conqueft of it to a fleet
of adventurers, who were going to the
Holy Land, the greateft part of whom
were Englifh. One Ucial op Rhys, in his
Tour through Portugal, fays, that Alonzo
gave them Almada, on the fide of the Ta-
gus oppofite to Liftion, and that Villa
Franca was peopled by them, which they
called CcrnuclLi, either in honour of their
native country, or from the rich meadows
in its neighbourhood, where immenfe herds
of cattle are kept, as in the Englifli Corn-
walL" Z,;</?Ji/, p. 104. inNote.
The
«44 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The above vi6lory is thus celebrated by Camoens :
famed Lifboa, whofe embattled wall
Rofe by the hand that wrought proud Illon's fall ;
Thou queen of cities whom the feas obey,
Thy dreade<l ramparts own'd the hero's fway.
Far from the North a warlike naA-y bore,
From Elbe, from Rhine, and Albion's mifty ihore,
To refcue Sakm's long polluted flirine ;
Their force to great Alonzo's force they join;
Before Ulyfles' walls the navy rides.
The joyful Tagus laves their pitchy fides.
Five times the moon her empty horns conceal'd.
Five times her broad effulgence fhone reveal'd,
When, wrapt in clouds of duft, her mural pride
Falls thundering, — black the fmoking breach yawns wlde#
*****
Thus fell the city, whofe unconquer'd towers *
Defy'd of old the banded Gothic powers,
Whofe harden'd nerves in rigorous climates train'd.
The favage courage of their fouls fuftain'd ;
Before whofe fword the fons of Ebro fled.
And Tagus trembled in his oozy bed. Lufiad^ book iii.
* Unconquer'd towers. — " This aflertion for it was by treachery that Herminetic,
lOf Camoen's is not without foundation^ the Goth, got pofleiEon of Lifbon."
On
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 145
On the prefent State of LiJho?j.
Of the population of this city no exadt account has
been recently publiflied, and the rapid increafe of its in-
habitants of late years mufl render any calculation of that
nature very uncertain. In the year one thoufand feven
hundred and eighty, the forty parillies into which Lifbon
is divided, were found to contain thirty-three thoufand
feven hundred and fixty-four houfes ; and in the year one
thoufand feven hundred and ninety, they amounted to
thirty- eight thoufand one hundred and two. Hence it
appears to have increafcd four thoufand three hundred
and thirty-eight houfes in the courfe of thofe ten years.
Now, if we eftimate each houfe, on an average, at fix
perfons, which, perhaps, is within the truth, the popu-
lation in the year one thoufand feven hundred and ninety
was two hundred and twenty-eight thoufand fix hundred
and twelve. To thefe are to be added the religious of
both fexes, with their attendants, who dwell in convents
and monafteries, the foldicry, the profeflbrs and ftudents
of feminaries of education, and fuch of the Galician
labourers as have no fixed dwelling ; their aggregate
amount, if my information be corred:, is not very fhort
of twelve thoufand. Then, according to this flatement,
u the
146 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
the population of Lifbon exceeds two hundred and forty
thoufand.
From the magnitude of the city v/e fliould be induced
to fuppofe that its population was confiderably more than
above ftated ; for it is computed to be four miles long by
one and a half broad, as may be inferred from the plan,
Plate IV. But many of the houfes are accompanied with
larse gardens, and fuch as have not thefe conveniencies
CD tD '
are, in general, laid out upon a large fcale, on account of
the heat of the climate.
The fatal effedls of the earthquake of one thoufand
feven hundred and fifty-five are ftill vifible in many parts
of the city, and never fail to imprefs every fpedlator with
an awful remembrance of that melancholy difafter ; ac-
cording to the moft accurate accounts, there were not Icfs
than twenty-four thoufand fell vidims to it. The old
inhabitants are conftantly relating the dreadful fcenes with
which it was attended ; it is the epoch whence they date
all modern events ; and they ftartle at every fhock that
has the moft diftant refemblance to it. They are fenfible,
however, of the advantages the city now derives from the
deftrudtion of the ancient contracted lanes and unhealthy
habitations. The fcvereft vifitations of Divine Providence
are often attended with manifold bleflings, as they call
forth the exertion of men, and impel them to feek re-
8 fources
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 147
fources which otherwife would not be thought of. The
Portuguefe have availed therafelves of this alternative, and,
like the Englifh, after the defl:ru6live fire of one thoufand
fix hundred and fixty-fix, they have turned the temporary
evil into a permanent good.
All the new ftreets ereded in Lifbon, in the place of the
old, are capacious, regular, and well paved, with conve-
nient path-ways for foot-paflcngers, as in the fireets of
London. The houfes are lofty, uniform, and ftrong.
(See plate V.) The manner of building them is rather
lingular : the carpenter is the firft employed ; when he has
raifed the fkelcton of frame-work, the mafon is then em-
ployed to fill up the interftices with rubble- ftone and
brick. The reafon they aflign for building in this manner
is, that the concatenation of the walls with the wood-
work contributes to refift the flight concuffions of earth-
quakes with which this city is conftantly vifited.
The firfl: flory of each dwelling-houfe^ when not con-
verted into a fhop, is a magazine for merchandize of one
kind or other. The merchants ufually keep their coaches
in the halls, and fometimes they anfwer for both coach-
houfe and ftable.
Notwithflanding the excellent building-materials with
which the diftrid: abounds, the rearing of a houfe here
cofts more than one of the fame dimenfions in London.
u 2 This,
148 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
This, in a great mcafure, is owing to the want of proper
machines for tranfporting the materials, and of convenient
tools to facilitate the work ; and yet it is extraordinary
with what dexterity the people fupply the want of thefe
apparatus.
Of a houfe four ftories high the attic is the pleafanteft
floor ; it is often furnifhed with a balcony, elegantly orna-
mented with rails of iron gilt, and furnifhed with an.
awning of (ilk or linen, under which the ladies fit on
culliions during the hot weather, employing their time in
reading, fewing, or cafting love-fignals in the fllent lan-
guage of the fingers ; a method of conveying their ideas,
which they have reduced to an alphabetic fyftem.
The principal apartments of many of the nobility and
merchants are furnifhed in a magnificent manner. The
manufa6lures of India and of China are more common in
their houfes than thofe of Europe. In the diftribution of
the apartments, coolnefs and ventilation are confulted, in
preference to warmth. Here grates and chimney-pieces
are almoft unknown ; in Winter, a warm cloak is the
common fubftitute for a fire. The hall-doors are ge-
nerally left open, and bells fupply the place of knockers.
In point of cleanlinefs, Lifbon is no longer a fubjedl of
animadverfion for ftrangers ; but all is not yet done ; it
ftiU
Pe
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 149
ftill wants common fevvers, pipe-water, and chambres des
aifaiices.
There is no court-end of the town here, nor a houfe
that will let to advantage merely on account of its fituation.
One of the principal modern ftreets is chiefly inhabited by
copper-fmiths and tin -men.
The merchants and wealthy (hop-keepers chiefly dwell
in the neighbourhood of the Royal Exchange, near their
warehoufes. The Ribeira Velha is the principal mart of
traflic : here are fome warehoufes belonging to the Ham-
burgh merchants, that have a very formidable appearance ;
the firft I faw of thefe I took, for a military magazine ;
but, on a clofer infpediion, I found that the balls which
were piled up in heaps were not cannon-balls, but flmple
cheefes ; each was about the fize of a trhirty-two-pounder,
and very nearly as hard. They are faid to import an-
nually into Lifbon flxty thoufand of thefe bullets.
Praqa do Comercio.
The new Square^ or Praqa do Comercio, is fix hun-
dred and fifteen feet long, by five hundred and fifty feet
broad, bounded on three fides by buildings, and on one fide
by the Tagus. The North wing is occupied by the Royal
Exchange and Cuftom-houfe 5 whereof we here prefent
a viewj
150 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
a view, (Plate VL) as taken from on board a veffel on the
Tagus. A continued arcade extends the whole length of
the wing, which affords communication with the feveral
OiHces aiid ftores. In the diftribution of thefe apartments,
both externally and internally, convenience and ftrcngth
are all the architedl appears to have had in view, and in-
deed very little more is neceflary for any Cuftom-houfe.
Here are no palaces for commiffioners to dwell in, nor
dark cells for clerks to write in, nor cellars floating with
water to hold dry goods ; whoever wifhes for thefe im^
provements^ will find them, and a great deal more, in the
new Cuftom-houfe of Dublin.
Equejl?'ian Statue of yofeph I.
In the centre of the above fquare is an Equeflrian
Statue, of bronze, of Jofeph the Firft ; a work of no in-
confiderable merit, and the only one of the kind that was
ever creeled to any of the Sovereigns of Portugal, The
Marquis de Pombal was the promoter of this work ; in-
tending thereby to honour his Royal Mafter, and at the
fame time to add a fprig of laurel to his own brow. The
portrait of this minifter, executed in bronze, was placed on
the fide of the pedeftal, but it continued there no longer
than he maintained his power ; it was torn down imme-
diately when he loft his mafter and his place, by thofe
who a few days before paid homage to the original. We
cannot but admire the indifference he evinced when in-
formed
•5 ^
I
ca
I g
b-
£5
fee
Til
llii
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 151
formed of this circumftance : / a^n glad of it^ faid he,
for it was not like f?ie.
When we confider the humble ftate of the arts in
Portugal, and the difficulty of executing fuch a magni-
ficent Statue, we mufl allow that great praife is due to
thofe who had the conducing of it. The model was
made by a fculptor named Joaquim Machado de Caftro,
who alfo defigned and executed the emblematic groups at
the fides of the pedeftal. It is from the latter every artift
and amateur will judge of the merits of this fculptor, par-
ticularly the group at the North fide, which muft be al-
lowed to poffefs great tafte, delicacy, and fpirit.
The figure and the horfc are alfo very noble produilions ;
but in cafts of this kind we muft not look for excellence
in the detail, as the delicate touches of the chifel are al-
ways loft in the foundry ; if the general form and the
mafies will bear the teft of criticifm, we can expcd: no
more, and in this refpe6t De Caftro has acquitted himfelf
in a mafterly manner.
Nor has Bartholomew de Cofla^ the founder of this
Statue, been deficient of abilities, as far as related to his
part ; he caft the whole in one piece, without failing even
in a fingle member j a circumftance which, one excepted,
has not, perhaps, occurred in any other work of the kind
of equal magnitude, fince the refloration of the art of
cafting
152 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
caftino- Equcflrian Statues in bronze *. And yet I am not
certain if this be not larger than, the exception we allude
to ; namely, the Equeftrian Statue of Louis the Four-
teenth, in the Place do Vendo?ne at Paris ; which, if it flill
exift, is twenty-one French feet in height, and was caft
in one piece by Balthazar Keller, a native of Zurich. But
De Cofta not only caft the above Statue, but alfo conveyed
it from the foundry, and raifed it on the lofty pedeftal on
which it ftands.
The fculptor and founder are both natives of Portugal ;
the latter has been honoured and rewarded for his inge-
nuity, by being promoted to the rank and pay of brigadier
in the fervice ; and it is allowed by all who know him,
that his talents do honour to that high rank. But Me-
chado de Caftro, the fculptor, who has an undoubted claim
to the principal merit of the work, as the defigner and
modeller of it, is neglected and forgotten : indeed, there is
not one Portuguefe in a thoufand who knows that he was
the author of it ; and though his talents entitle him to be
ranked with the firft artifts of the age, he is fcarcely
known in his native country. It is true, that his Majefty
created him a Knight on that occaiion ; but fince then, he
hi^s been left to pine in obfcurity in an attic cell. A fhor-t
time before I left Liibon I was allured, irom rcfpedlable
• M. B:ffrnnd, if he were not the firft very cflentiallv, by his memoit'S, towards
T^ho reftored the nrt of c:ifting Equeftrian the perfedling of that art.
Statues ill one piece, contributed at leaft
authority,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 153
authority, that he petitioned a gentleman high in office to
have the floor of his wretched apartment repaired.
Portugal, like Ireland, is become celebrated for the
manner in which at all times fhe has treated her native
fons of diftinguifhed merit. We find in the annals of both
nations men, whofe works have enlightened fucceeding ge-
nerations, perfecuted, defpifed, and the rays of fcienee
given to illumine mankind, expiring in a prifon or an hof-
pital, like an exhaufted lamp. The great Prince Henry
was reviled and fcorned by thofe who confidered them-
felves as the great men of his country, as Galileo was by
the Italians, and looked upon as an Aquatic Knight Er-
rant, whilft (to fpeak in the language of allegory) he was
■ enlarging the boundaries of the univerfe. Admiral Pacheo,
who aftoniihed the Eaftern world with the greatnefs of his
adlions, and at his return to Lifbon received honours ade-
quate to a triumph, was foon after caft into prifon, loaded
with chains ; and though he was found innocent of the
alleged mifdemeanors, he was left to fubfift the re-
mainder of his days upon charity. The fate of Magellen,
Vernei, and Vieira are well known, and alfo that of Ca-
moens, the Virgil of Portugal, who ended his days in
s.n alms-houfe ; and whilft he was giving the laft hand to
his immortal numbers, lived on the pittance begged for
him by his bi. ck fervant in the ftreets of Lifbon. We
wifh, for the honour of Portugal, that Machado dc Caftro
may clofe its catalogue of neglected talents.
X Cawio?:
154 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Cannon of Dio.
The Cannon of Dio, fo called on account of its being
taken from the King of Cambaya, at the fiege of Dio in
India, was fent to Portugal, with other trophies of vic-
tory, by Nuno de Cuna, about the year one thoufand
five hundred and thirty-nine, and depofited in the caftle of
St. Julian, at the entrance of the port of Lifbon. Here
it remained till the above equeftrian ftatue was about to be
caft, when it was brought, with other pieces of brafs, to
be melted for that purpofe. There happened to refide at
this time at the court of Lifbon an Ambaffador from
Tunis, who, in examining this Cannon, chanced to caft his
eye on an Arabic infcription on the breech of it ; he imme-
diately explained it to the Portuguefe interpreter, the Reve-
rend Father de Souza ; in confequence of which, the Cannon
was refcued from the furnace, and depofited in the foun-
dry or armory at Lifbon. It is twenty-eight palmos
long ; that is, upwards of twenty feet Englifh meafure,
and of a proportionable caliber. Annexed is a copy of
the infcription (A, Plate VII.), which, together with the
Portuguefe interpretation of the fame, I am indebted for
to the friendfhip of the above Father ; I fhall give both
exadlly as he wrote them for me.
Infcripqao Arabe^ que ejia em hua Peqa chamada de Dw ;
equal fe acha na Fundica}) : Co?n a traduqao da dita em
Portuguez.
s^ >- '^ ^.^ L^ ^-
t-'
Lay;
r.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 15^
Portuguez. Lida^ e traduzida, pdo Padre Fr. Jodo de
Souza, Religiozo da 3'' Ordetn da Penitencia da ProvtJicia
de Portugal.
Do Nojfo Sober ano Mahey ; Rei dos Rets do Seculo^ Filhoj
da Nobre Senhora Rahdn ; Defenfor da Lei Mahometica ;
Vencedor dos Taneos ; * Expugnador^ e dejlrmdor dos
EbaditaSy -f- no memoravel dia da peleja^ afites do Rei
Salib. Herdeiro do Rei Suliman\ Confident e em Decs 'y
Pai da P atria, e das Sciencias ; Rei de Madarchah,
Foi fundida a ^ do ?nez de Zil Kdde, anno de 939 da
Hegira ; que correfponde a 16 Janeiro de 1526;
Tranjlation.
A copy of an Arabic infcription, which is upon a Can-
non brought from Dio, to be feen at the foundry at Lifbon,
with a tranflation of the fame in the Portuguefe language;
copied and tranflated by Father John de Souza, a Friar
of the third Order of Penitentiaries of the Provincialfhip
of Portugal.
From our Sovereign Mahey ; King of the Kings of the
age, fon of the noble Lady Rahan, Defender of the Ma-
* Os Taneos, fiio hum Povos, que vlvem SenWs de Ifmael \ os quaes occupavao a MefopO'
junto a Etheopia. tamiaa eas mar gens do Rio Eufrate,
\ Os EbaditaSf fao certos Povos dejcen-
X 2 hommetan
156 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
hommetan Law, Conqueror of the Taneos *, Extermi- ^
iiator and Vanqiiiilier of the Ebaditas f , (on the day of the
memorable battle with King Salib,) Heir to King Suli-
man, Confident of God, Father of his Country and of
the Sciences, King of Madarchah. This Cannon was
caft on the 5th day of the month of Zil Kade, in the year
939 of the Hegira, which correfponds with the i6th of
January, A. D. 1526.
A copy of the infcription B, (Plate VIL) was alfo
given to me, without a tranflation, by Father de Souza.
The original, he informs me, is upon an ancient fountain
near the caftle of the town of Moura.
Rofcio»
The next fquare of any note in Lifijon is the Rofck ;
moft of the houfes are occupied by fhop-keepers. Here
the celebrated Inquifition is fituated ; a large empty build-
ing, now as filent as the Temple of Janus. Over the
pediment, in the centre of the elevation, is a group of
figures, reprefenting Religion trampling on a proftrate
heretic.
* The Taneos are a people who dwell mael j they dwell in Mefopotamia on the
near Ethiopia. banks of the Euphrates.
•j: The Ebaditas are defcendants of Ifla-
In
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 157
In the month of March, one thoufand feven hundred and
ninety, I was prefent here when three criminals, found guilty
of burglary or affaffination, were led to thefquare to be ex-
ecuted, efcorted by five battalions of infantry. The people,
unaccuftomed to fcenes of this kind of late years, flocked
in numbers to fee the execution, but many of them had
to repent their curiofity. One of the foldiers on guard
happened to quarrel with a failor in the crowd ; the
guards on the oppofite fide, thinking it was an attempt
to refcue the criminals, attacked the mob with fixed
bayonets, and in a few minutes the former remained maf-
ters of the fcene of adlion. Several people were danger-
oufly wounded, and others, in the precipitancy of retreat,
left fome fragments of their apparel behind.
Public Walh and Ajnujements,
Contiguous to the Rofcio are the public Walks efia-
bliflied by the Marquis de Pombal, who was a great friend
to the fair fex, and as fuch, endeavoured to abolifh the
reftraint under which they have long been unjuftly kept ;
for this purpofe he planned thefe promenades, with a
view to introduce a more general intercourfe between
both fexes. The walks are elegant, bordered with efpaliers,
and the intervals planted with trees and fhrubberies. Yet
the inftitution does not appear to have produced that fecial
intercourfe to the extent the Marquis had in view. The
1 3 inhabitants
158 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
inhabitants think, however, that the females enjoy more
fociety at prefent than at any former period, and that the
jealoufy of the men, and the caufes or fufpicions which
gave rife to it are diminifhing every day.
There are two Theatres here for dramatic performances;
on Sundays they are much crowded. I could perceive but
few ladies among the audience, and thefe, with few ex-
ceptions, fat, not promifcuoufly in the company of the
men, as in other theatres, but apart. The mufic was ex-
cellent, the dreffes and fcenery tolerable, the ading indif-
ferent, or rather bad. Of late years no females are allowed
to perform on the ftage ; hence, the men are obliged to
afllime the female garb. How provoking it was to fee
the tender, the beautiful Ignez de Caftro reprefented by one
of thefe brawny artificial wenches, efpecially in that affed:-
ing fcene where fhe appears, with her two infant children,
at the King*s feet fupplicating for mercy. The fimple re-
cital of this affedling paffage, as written by Luis, is fuf-
ficient to melt an audience into tears, yet the man-mid-
wife who delivered it brought forth no tears, but the tears
of the Poet, for the abortion of his piece. Inftead of the
delicate faltering accents of the fair vidim, he roared,
—— like the ocean when the winds
Fight with the waves
dying accents fell, as wrecking fliips
After the dreadful yell, fink murmuring down,
And bubble up a noife. .-^ Lees Oedip.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
159
The other adors, particularly thofe who reprefented
King Alfonfo and Don Pedro, were not deficient in fen-
timent or adion. They poffeffed a good deal of that
graceful unconftrained manner we admire in the French
adtors.
The Circus for the bull-feafls is but a jfhort diftance
from the above Theatres. This amufement is declining:
very faft in the capital. The performances I witneffed here
were inferior to what I faw at Leiria, but not quite fo
cruel. And after all, perhaps the manner of tearing the
bulls with maftiffs, as in England and other parts of Eu-
rope, is not lefs barbarous than the manner of tormenting
them in Spain and Portugal ; but we are apt to fee defedls
in our neighbours, whilfl: we are blind to our own, like
the Lamian Witches, who, according to the facetious Ra-
belais, in foreign places had the penetration of a Lynx,
but at home they took out their eyes and laid them up in
wooden flippers.
As we have already given an account of a bull-feaft at
Leiria, it is unneceflary to add that of Lifbon, which is
almoft fimilar. A fcene of a more novel nature invites
our attention ; that is, the manner of catching black cattle
in Brazil.
I was prefent at the Circus when this curious fpedlacle
was exhibited, the firft of the kind, as I was told, ever
I reprefented
i6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
reprefcnted in Lifbon. It conveyed a good idea of tlie
manner in which the inhabitants of that fertile region
catch their cattle. They kill the animals for the fake of the
hides, which are brought to Portugal to be manufactured.
Of the flefh I underftand the Brazilians make but little
account ; they barely take as much as is fufficient for pre-
fent exigence, and leave the reft a prey to the birds and
beafts of the forefts.
The Circus was very crowded on this occasion: about
five in the afternoon a native of Pernambuca entered the
arena mounted upon a fpirited horfe of the Arabian breed.
The rider was of a copper colour, of a ftrong and adlive
figrure, his hair black, and his head unco^^ered. He wore
a loofe mantle, fomewhat like the paludamentum of the
ancient Romans. The fkin of a wild beaft was thrown
loofely over the horfe inftead of a faddle, from which were
fufpended two cords for ftirrups. The whole appeared
quite in character.
As foon as the cavalier had paid his obeilance to the
audience, a bull, whofe natural ferocity was heightened
in the ftall, ruflied in, and had nearly overturned him in
the iirft ortfet ; the fleetnefs of his horfe, and the dexte-
rity \vith which he managed the reins, only could have
favcd his lite. The furious animal purfued him feveral
times round the arena >till he became tired, after which
he ftood panting in the middle of the ring.
Ihe
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i6i
The horfeman ftill continued his circular courfe at an
eafy pace, holding a long cord in his hand, with a flip-
knot at the end of it : having watched a proper opportu-
nity, he caft it over the horns of the bull, and rode twice
round him ; then ordering the gate to be thrown open, he
made off in full fpced till he came to the full length of
the cord ; upon which he received a check, that drew him
on his back, and made the horfe caper on his hind
feet ; neverthelefs he clung to him by his knees, and in
this reclined pofture, held the cord in both hands and the
bridle in his mouth. The bull at this time was entangled
by the rope, with his head drawn in between his fore-feet,
and incapable of motion. The Brazilian difmounted, ap-
proached, and drew from beneath his mantle a fliort hunt-
ing fpear, which, with an apparent flight force, he darted
into the head of the animal, in confequence of which he
inftantly fell down and expired.
"The Patriarchal Church
Is fltuated at the North-eafl: flde of the town, upon an
eminence that commands a profped: at once extenflve and
beautiful. It would require a volume to defcribe the
treafures of facred relics, gold, fllver, precious fliones, and
coftly furniture of this venerable edifice. The objeds that
moflily attrad the attention of travellers, are the nine great
candelabri, and the crofs belonging to the King's chapel ;
Y the
i63 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
the latter, which is of filver and gilt, is upwards of twelve
feet high, and of exquifite workmanfhip. Nor is the
workmanfhip of the candelabri lefs deferving of notice ;
they exhibit a variety of groupes in demi-relief, reprefent-
ing the myfteries of Chrift and of the Virgin Mary ; in
other parts of them v/e behold emblems chara6teriftic of
the kingdom, and of its former conquefts and difcoveries.
Thefe are alfo formed of fiiver, gilt, and adorned with
feftoons : the fnaces between the groupes are inlaid with
lapis lazuli, and fpangkd with diamonds and other pre-
cious ftones.
Antonio Arrighi (an Italian) was the defigner of the
above crofs and candelabri ; they were executed partly at
Rome and partly at Florence, in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and thirty-two, and were greatly admired
by the amateurs of the fine arts in both thofe cities. The
value of the whole is very great, as may be readily con-
ceived, when the workmanfliip alone is faid to have coft
the fum of three hundred thoufand crufados^ or thirty-three
thoufand feven hundred and fifty pounds fterling.
The greater part of the charge of the above, and the
other embellifhments of this Church, was defrayed out of
the furplus of the revenue after paying the ordinary ex-
pences of the eftablifhment ; which revenue, in the year
one thoufand feven hundred and forty-feven, flood as fol-
lows, according to Father dc Caftro,
An
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
163
An Account of the eJlahUp^ed A7inual Revenue of the
Patriarchal Church.
Ancient endowment
Tributes of Bifhoprics and benefices
Rents of churches, houfes and reclaimed lands
Forfeitures and purchafes
Total
Reis.
30,005,560
94,982,512
31,474,717
250,843,880
407,306,669
An Account of the ordinary Annual Difburfefnents of
the Patriarchal Church.
5 Principal Dignitaries
I Dean _ _ -
18 Secondary Dignitaries
72 Prelates
20 Canons
12 Beneficaries
32 Second Beneficaries
32 Inferior Beneficaries
5 Matters of Ceremonies
7 Acolothifts
29 Chaplains
2 Treafurers
1 Depofitories of the Sacrifty
I Depofitory of the wax ftore
jjo Sacrifts
Y 2
Reis.
23,766,000
4»853>2oo
83,757,600
.- - 115,200,000
" - 20, 000, coo
8,400,000
16,000,000
8,000,000
520,000
350,000
4,560,000
. - - 180,000
220,000
140,000
1,488,000
Carried over 287,434,800
164
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Reir.
Brought forward
287,434,800
17 Chaplains who celebrate mais in the ancient
Royal Chapels _ _ _
769,040
71 Italian and Portuguefe Chorifters
30,672,800
4 Organifts - - - -
520,000
1 Italian Compofer - - -
180,000
I Door-keeper . « - -
120,000
6 Wardens - - - -
320,000
12 Provedores - _ - -
360,000
4 Meflengers _ - _ -
80,000
6 Sweepers - - - -
267,840
2 Torch-bearers - - _ -
148,800
I Goldfmith _ - - -
640,000
2 Upholfterers - - - -
412,800
I Hair-drefler _ - - _
9,480
2 Bell-ringers with their afliftants
400,000
I Modulator of the organs - - -
20,000
A Writer, an Illuminator, and an Engraver
600,000
12 Confeflbrs - _
600,000
4 Preachers _ - _ _
94,000
Wax
6,200,000
For painting the wax _ - _
210,800
Proceffions, feats, and cleaning the Church
2,000,000
Cleaning and repairing the filver utenfils
250,000
Wafhing and making up the furniture
392,000
Repairing the linen _ - -
120,000
Oil for forty-five lamps _ _ _
500,000
Wine ufed in the celebration of the mafTes
150,000
Hofts . _ - - .
24,000
Incenfe _ - - -
24,000
Charcoal _ » - -
20,000
Palm - - . _ _
600,000
Calendars
48,000
Carried over
334>iS8,36o
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i(Jr
Rels.
Brought forward 334,188,360
St. Antony's offerings - - - 70,000
Green and red cloths - - « go 000
Hanging the Church on feftival days - 236,000
School - - - -. , 1,800,000
Contingencies - • . - 800,000
Total 337,154,360
The aggregate of the above fums when reduced to
pounds fterling will ftand thus :
Reis. £. s. d.
Total Annual Revenue 407,306,669 = 114,554 : 18 : 6
Total Annual Difburfements 2)2i7->^S^i2>^'^ ^^ 94>824 : 11 : 6
70,152,309 = £. 19,730 : y : o
Hence there appears a balance of nineteen thoufand
feven hundred and thirty pounds and feven fhillings re-
maining in the funds for repairs, furniture, utenfils, and
other contingencies.
We do not include in the above eftimates the eftabliih-
ment of the Patriarch, which is very confiderable on ac-
count of his great dignity. His Eminence takes precedence
of all the Bifhops and Archbilhops of the kingdom, is
Firft Chaplain to the King, and a Cardinal of the Con-
fillory at Rome. The principal revenue of liis facred
office arifes from the tribute of the general mines j he has
6 alfo
i66 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
alfo a large endowment in church lands, and five thou-
fand fix hundred and twenty-five pounds fterling a-year
out of the Royal Treafiiry. At the loweft computation
we may ftate the whole at thirty thoufand pounds pet^ an-
num. Then the total amount of the eftablifiiment of the
Patriarchal Church will be 144,554/. i8j. bd.
Lioretto.
The Loretto Church, built by the Pope's Nuncio a ^^w
years ago, is held in high eftimation for its architedlure ;
but its admirers muft fee excellencies in it that I could not
perceive j and I am inclined to fufped that any reputation
it has obtained in that refpedl is owing, not to its intrinfic
merit, but from its being defigned in Italy. In the days
of Palladio this would have been a ftrong recommendation j
we cannot, however, allow that privilege to the Italians
of the prefent age, whofe tafte in architecture is funk as
low as that of moft other nations of Europe, by the Bor-
romini, the Bibi.na, and their difciples, the modern Van-
dals of that degenerated nation.
J^ervehfs hijloth^ enfeebling arts thy boajl.
Oh! Italy, hoiv fallen, how low, how lojl l Camoens.
There are feveral labourers employed in finking the
mountain jufi by this Church, for the purpofe of building
dwelling-houfes ; and it is curious to obfcrve, that as far
as they have hitherto funk, which in fome parts is about
thirty
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 167
thirty feet, they found nothing but a reddijfh clay, or fand,,
mixed with ftrata of petrified fhells, chiefly of the crufta-
ceous kind. Several hundred cart-loads of thefe fhells have
been cleared away from this fpot ; the height of which
above the fea apparently is not lefs than three hundred and
fifty feet.
As we are in the neighbourhood of the Francifcan
Church, we cannot help noticing the infcriptional ftone
placed in the North-eaft angle of it. There is another,
of a fimilar nature, in the front of the Carmo Church.
We fhall not annex their fublime contents ; for the ho-
nour of our holy religion we wifli they were taken down ;
or if that be contrary to the prefcriptions or laws of thefe
Churches, perhaps there is no law in force againfl: turning
them i'lfide out..
Church of St. Roque,
This Church formerly belonged to the Jefuits. There
is nothing in the architedlure very remarkable for excel-
lence of defign or execution, though indeed it may be
juftly confidered a very neat Church. The walls and
ceiling exhibit feme good pictures in frefco. But what is
moft deferving of attention is a fmall Chapel dedicated to
St. John the Baptift, the moft valuable of its fize, per-
haps, in Europe. Among the materials with which it is
decorated, we obferve lapis lazuli. Oriental granite, por~
II ' phjry*
i63 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
phyiy, amethyft, alabafter, verde antique, coralline, fciena
and carara marbles.
There are alfo three beautiful pidures in it, executed
in mofaick in a maflerly manner ; one is placed in a
deuxtyle over the altar, reprefenting the Baptifm of our
Saviour ; the other two, namely, the Annunciation and the
Defeent of the Holy Ghoft, are placed one at each fide of
the altar] The floor is likewife of mofaick, embelliflied
with borders of treillage, and an armillary fphere in the
centre. The columns and dado of the altar are of lapis
lazuli ; the table of the latter is fupported at the angles
by cherubs of (ilver, and accompanied by two lofty can-
delabri of the fame metal. The fhafts of the columns are
formed into ftria^ by fillets of gold.
According to thofe who rate the expence of thefe pre-
cious appendages at the lovveft, they coft two millions of
crufados, or two hundred and twenty-five thoufand pounds
fterling. They were executed at Rome by the mofl emi-
nent artifls of- that city, at the defire of King John the
Fifth, who prefented them to the Jefuits of St. Roque,
in the year one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-one.
Every admirer of the fine arts muft regret to find fuch
admirable productions fqueezed into an obfcure chapel or
cell, not more than feventeen feet long by twelve broad,
at the fide of the church.
JVew
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 169
New Church.
The New Church, built by her prefent Majefty, is the
largeft and moft magnificent edifice raifed in Lilbon fince
the fatal earthquake. It is faid to have coft five millions
of crufados ; that is, five hundred and fixty-tu^o thoufand
five hundred pounds fterling. The plan is in the form
of a crofs, and runs nearly Eaft and Weft : indeed the
Portugueie, in founding their Churches, are not very par-
ticular in this refped:. They generally adapt the afped:
to the fituation, a cuftom worthy of our imitation ; as
that great Being, in honour of whom they are raifed, is
equally prefent at the North and the South, at the Eaft
and the Weft.
The centre is crowned with a magnificent dome of
hewn ftone rifing over the quadrangle at the interfedion of
the nave and tranfept, which is gradually formed into a
circle by pendentives fpringing from the angles of the
piers. In point of execution this dome has great merit ;
and no wonder; for where ftiall we meet with fuch excel-
lent ftone-cutters as in Portugal ? Perhaps not in Europe.
Truth will not allow us, however, to fay as much for its
architcds.
In the whole Church, indeed, as far as relates to thefe
artifans, there is nothing to cenfure, and but very little
z to
i-jo TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
TO praife that relates to the architedl. We fhall take no
notice of the towers, nor of the ball that crowns the cupola;
a little knowledge of optics or perfpedive might have re-
medied what is amifs in both : but in the diftribution of
the compofite tetraftyle, the arcade and the logia of the Eaft
front, nothing more was required to make them as they
ought to be, than a moderate knowledge of the rules of
architecture. The columns of the former, inftead of fup-
porting the fuperftrudlure, fuftain but a diminifhed enta-
blature, and even this is intermitted ; hence, the columns
are of no real or appaxent ufe whatever. An Athenian
would imagine they were expofed there for fale ; and the
Italian who, not long Unce, prompted by an itch for paf-
quinading, pofted the following couplet on one of the
columns of a great manfion in the neighbourhood of Saint
James's in London, might apply it, with equal proprietyj
to the above columns :
Care Colonne, che fatte la f
Non lojappiamo in verita !
Tell me, dear Columns, why do you ftand fo ^
Indeed, Mr. Pafquin, we really don't know !
Cemetery of the Britijh FaSiory.
The Cemetery, or Burying-ground, belonging to the
Britifli Fadory, is lituated at the North-weft fide of the
city, and is the only expofed Burying-ground in Lifbon.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 171
The natives, and all others of the Catholic communion
who die here, are interred in the cryptical tombs of the
churches. When the corpfe is repofited, it is ftrewed
with lime, to diffolve it the more fpcedily, and to prevent
.any unpleafant fmell.
The difeafed, according to law, muft not remain diiin-
terred more than four-and-twenty hours ; a very falutary
regulation, called for by the heat of the climate ; for,
admitting it were pofTible that one in a thoufand might be
brought to life by continuing unburied, as with us, for
the fpace of five or fix days, it is more than probable, that
thoufands would fall a facrifice to the experiment.
This Birrying-ground was afligned to the Englifli about
the year one thoufand fix hundred and fifty-five, agreeably
to the fourteenth article of the Treaty of Alliance con-
cluded between England and Portugal in the time of
Oliver Cromwell. The fame article alfo includes the
reftridlions to which the Englifh are fubjeft with regard to
the exercife of their religion. Here is a copy of it :
" And forafmuch as the rights of peace and commerce
*' would be null and ufelefs, if the people of the Republic
" of England fhould be difturbed for confcience-fake,
*' when they pafs to and from the kingdoms and domi-
" nions of the faid King of Portugal, or refide there for
*' the fake of exchanging their merchandize. That com-
z 2 " merce
((
(C
172 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
" merce may, therefore, be free and fecure both by land
" and fea, the faid King of Portugal fhall take effedtual
" care, and provide, that they be not molefted by any
" perfon, • court, or tribunal, upon account of the faid
" confcience, or for having with them, or uling, any
" Englifh Bibles or other books ; and that it fhall be free
" for the people of the Republic to obferve and profefs
*' their own religion in private houfes, together with their
" families, within any of the dominions of the faid King
" of Portugal whatfoever J and the fame to exercife on
" board their fhips and vefTels as they fhall think iit,
without any trouble or hindrance ; and finally, that a
place be affigned for the burial of their dead. But
" withal, the Englifh are cautioned not to exceed what is
" written in this article."
Among the remains of the Britifli fubje<9:s interred in
the above Cemetery, are thofe of the celebrated Henry
Fielding ; but, I regret to fay, without a monument, or
any other obfequious mark of diftind:ion, fuitable to his
great talents and virtues.
In the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-fix,
the Chev. de St. Mark de Meyrionet, the French Conful,
who then refided at Liibon, had a fmall monument made
for that purpofe at his own expence, which remains to
this day in the cloifter of the Francifcan convent. Why
it has not been admitted into the Burying-ground I could
not
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 173
not learn ; but thofe who have excluded it were certainly
juftified for more reafons than one. In the firft place,
as a monument, it is a very contemptible defign. Se-
condly, the epitaph is unappropriate and unpoetical.
And, thirdly, it appears to be made rather from vanity
than gratitude ; rather with a view to confer honour on
himfelf and his country, than to perpetuate the me-
mory of Henry Fielding. This appears evident from the
laft line of* the epitaph ; of which we here annex a
copy.
Erige en 1786, a Henry Field'mg mort e?n 1754.
Sous ces cypres charn'iers, parmi ces os muets,
Tu cherches de Fielding les reftes memorables;
De la mort et du temps deplore les effets,
Ou detefte plutot I'oubli de fes femblables.
lis elevent par-tout des marbres faftueux,
Un bloc reconnoifTant ici manque a tes voeux,
Et ton pas incertain craint de fouler la cendre,
Sur laquelle tes pleurs cherchent a fe repandre.
Vieillard, qui detruis tout dans un profond filence,
Ne diiTous point ce marbre a Fielding confacre !
Qu'aux fiecles a venir il arrive facre,
Pour I'honneur de mon nom et celui de la France !
The
174
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The following lines were written by way of Epitaph to
Henry Fielding, by Mr. Smart.
The mafter of the Greek and Roman page,
The lively fcorner of a venal age,
Who made the public laugh at public vice.
Or drew from fparkling eyes the pearl of price ;
Student of Nature, reader of mankind,
In whom the poet and the patron join'd.
As free to give applaufes as aflert,
And fkilful in the practice of defert.
Hence power confign'd the laws to thy command.
And put the fcales of juftice in thine hand,
To ftand protector of the orphan race,
And fmd the female penitent a place.
From toils like thefe, too great for eye to bear,
From pain, from ficknefs, and a world of care.
From children and a widow in her bloom.
From fhores remote, and from a foreign tomb ;
Call'd by the Word of Life, thou flialt appear
To pleafe and profit in a higher fphere,
Where endlefs hope, unperifhable gain.
Are what the Scriptures teach and entertain.
Royal Monaftery of Belem.
On the banks of the Tagus, about five miles South- weft
of Lifbon, is fituated the magnificent Church and Mona-
ftery of Belem, founded by King Emanuel, in the year
one thoufand four hundred and ninety-nine, and completed
<- by
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i--
/J
by his fon and fucceffor, John the Third, for the Friars of
the Order of Si. yeronymo. Over the portal of the Mo-
nailery we obferve the following infcription, or diftich,
faid to have been written by the celebrated Andre de
Rejende :
Vasta mole sacrum Divin-e in LiTORE Matrt
Rex posuit Regum Maximus Emmanuel.
AuxiT OPUS H^REs Regini, et pietatis uterque
Structura certant, religione pares.
Providence fortunately laved this beautiful ftrudlure
from the deftruiflive effedls of the memorable earthquake
of one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-five, except the
great arch of the tranfept, which received a fhock in that
difafter ; in confequence of which it fell the enfuing year.
The Chevalier Frezier makes refpeftful mention of the
vaulting of this church, than whom, I know but very few"
writers more competent to judge of thefe matters.
On pent re?na7-quer dans les anciennes Egltfes ^ Clot'
ires Gothiques, une variete admirable de compartimeris ;
ce que fai vu de plus beau ^ de mteux execute dans ce
ge?trej eji au Monajlere de Bethlehem^ aupres de LiJbo?me
en Portugal, tant a V Eglije qu an Cloitre, oti, la plupart
des nervures font de Marbre.
We may obferve in the ancient Gothic churches and
cloiflers an admirable variety of compartments ; the moft
beautiful
175 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
beautiful and beft executed of the kind that I have feen,
are in the Monaftery of Belem, near Lifbon in Portugal,
as well with regard to the church as the cloifter, where
moft of the ribs are of marble.
Traite de Stereotomie^ iom.m, p. 28.
Here are interred many oi the Royal families of Portu-
gal, and other perfonages of diftindion, as may be col-
ledVed from the infcriptions ol their monuments. The
whole is executed in a fpecies of architecture compounded
of the Norman- Gothic, and Arabian ftyles. The cloifter
adjoining to the church exhibits fome excellent fpecimens
of Arabefque ornaments ; they are defigned with a good
deal of tafte and fancy, and executed with care.
The founder of this noble fabric, eredled in the river
oppoUte to the church a fbrong tower, with two batteries
and feveral pieces of cannon, to defend both the Monaftery
and the entrance to the capital. Jofeph the Firft alfo
built an excellent quay with wharfs near the fame place.
Bom-fuccejfo.
This Monaftery was founded in the year one thoufand
fix hundred and twenty-fix, for the Nuns of the Order of
St. Jeronymo ; but, through the munificence of Queen
Louiza de Gufman, it was afterwards fet apart for females,
natives of Ireland, who entered into holy orders. It is
dedicated
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 177
dedicated to St. Dominick, and under the controul of the
Abbot-general of that Order, or his depute, the Redor of
the Iriili Dominican Convent at Lifbon. It maintains
two Chaplains, who are alfo of the fame Order, and na-
tives of Ireland.
The Irijh CoJtvent,
The Irifli Convent, or College of the Dominican Order,
was founded in the year one thoufand fix hundred and
fifty-nine, by Queen Luiza de Gufman, who inftituted
the Irifh nunnery above mentioned. That Convent was
entirely deflroyed by the earthquake of one thoufand
feven hundred and fifty-five. It is recorded that one of
the Fathers, animated by a pious zeal to preferve the
facred pax, ruflied into the midft of the ruins during the
violence of the earthquake, brought it forth, and walked
with it in procefiion to the church of St. Ifabel, attended
by a vaft concourfe of people, imploring the Divine
mercy.
After feveral years had elapfed, the Fathers were en-
abled to rebuild their little feminary and church, through
the munificence of the humane. Some refpedtable Catholic
families in Ireland gave donations for that purpofe ; but
the greater part of the expence was defrayed by the bene-
volent people of Portugal.
A A The
178 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The inhabitants of the Convent, at prefent, are about
eighteen, exclufive of fervants ; they live chiefly on vo-
luntary contributions. The ftudents are remarkably docile
and fober; even the Portuguefe, whofe career from youth
to age is rarely chequered with fallies of intemperance, hold
them as models of imitation to the probationers of their
monafleries. King Jofeph the Firft had a particular efteem
for thefe Fathers, though he once made a witty remark on
them. One evening he obferved, from the balcony of his
palace, four or five of them crofTmg the Tagus in a ferry-
boat, in which there were fome females. *' Your Ma-
" jefty's Irilli Friars," faid one of the Lords in waiting,
** are fond pf mixing with the Ladies." / am not afraid
of their making love to them, replied the King, I would
fooner trufl them with ?ny wife than the key of my cellar.
Perhaps there is not in the code of Irifh profcriptlons
a law that more clearly manifefts the wretched policy of
that country, than that which relates to the exclufion of
Roman Catholic feminaries of education. You accufe
their paftors with illiterature, whilft you adopt the mofb
cruel means of making tKem ignorant ; and their peafantry
with unrradablenefs, whilfl you deprive them of the
means of civilization. But that is not all; you have de-
prived them at once of their religion, their liberty, their
oak, and their harp, and left them to deplore their fate,
not in the ftrains of their anceftors, but in the fighs of
oppreffion.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ,79
oppreflion. I would wifh to draw a veil over thefe griev-
ances, which, thank God, are diminifliing every day, as
the beams of more enlightened legiflature begins to dawn
on that long-negleded ifle.
Lijbon AqueduSl.
This Aquedud may be juftly confidered one of the
moft magnificent monuments of modern conftruflion in
Europe ; and in point of magnitude, is not inferior, per-
haps, to any Aquedu6l the ancients have left us. That
part of it which is fituated in the valley of Alcantara,
about a mile from Lifbon, is an admirable ftrudure ; con-
iifting of thirty-five arches, by which the water is con-
veyed over a deep vale, formed by two oppofite mountains.
The dimenfions of it, in the mofl deprefied part of the
vale, are as follow :
Feet. Inches.
Height of the arch from the ground to the Intrados - 230 10
From the vertex of the arch to the extrados, exclufive
of the parapet - - - - 98
From the extrados to the top of the ventilator - 234
Total height from the ground to the fummit of the
ventilator - - - 263 10
Breadth of the principal arch - - 107 8
Breadth of the piers of the principal arch - - 280
Thicknefs of the piers in general - - - 23 8
The arches on each fide of the principal one diminifh
in breadth, as the piers whereon they reft decreafe in
A A 2 height
i8o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
heicrht with the declivity of the hills. In examining the
refpedtive dimenfions of the feveral arches, I find they do
not reciprocally diminifli in geometrical progreilion ; in-
deed it is obvious to the eye, a very great obftruftion to
the beauty of the perfpedlive. The reader who is not ac-
quainted with that ufeful problem, will find it fufficiently
illuftrated in Traite de Stereoto?nie., by the Chev. Frezier^
torn. ii. p. 120. pi. XXXV.
It would alfo contribute to the beauty of the ftrudlure^
if all the arches were curves of the fame fpecies ; inftead
of which there are fourteen of them Gothic, or pointed
arches in a range ; the reft are (emicircular. The architeft
feems to have been apprehenfive that the principal arches,
if made femicircular, would become very expenfive, on
account of their requiring a higher extrados than pointed
arches to keep them in equilibrium ; fince there is no arch,
except the catenaria, that will fupport itfelf without an.
incumbent weight proportionable to the fubtenfe.
In the reft of the Aquedu6l there is much judgment,
difplayed. No part of it has failed, or appears to have
received the leaft injury from the great earthquake ; a proof
of the excellence of the contignation.
Over the arches there runs a vaulted corridor, nine feet
fix inches high, by five feet broad, internally. A con-
tinued pafliige runs through the centre of it, for the
3 people
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ^g^I.
people who conftantly attend to keep it in order, and a
femicircular channel, or conduit, of thirteen inches dia-
meter at each fide through which the water is conveyed.
It is worthy of remark, that thefe channels are laid, not
in an inclined diredlion, as in other Aqueduds, but ho-
rizontally; to compenfate for this, a fmall depreffion is
made at certain intervals, by which the water is impelled-
along the horizontal line ; a manner fuppofed to require
lefs declenfion in conveying water than a continued in-
clined line. There are two thoroughfares for foot-paf-
fengers along the Aquedudt ; that is, one at each fide of
the corridor, which is five feet wide, and defended by a
ftone parapet.
From the remains of fome ancient walls which were found
here, it is fuppofed that the Romans who inhabited Lufi-
tania attempted to build an Aquedu<ft in the place where
the prefent one is raifed.
King Emanuel had a fimilar work in contemplation j by
which he propofed conveying the water to the Praqa do
Rofcio^ and there to ered; a magnificent fountain. The
defign was made agreeably to his orders by Francifco do
Glhando ^ it confifted of a figure reprefenting Lifbon
{landing on a column, guarded by four elephants, from
whofe trunks the water was to have ifTued. But Emanuel
had many more important defigns to execute, and there--
fore left this unfinifhed.
The
iBt TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The Infanta Don Luiz^ in the reign of John the Third,
refumed the idea of the Aquedu6b, but failed likewife in
the execution of it. Luis Marinho fays, the fenate of
Li(bon made a colledion for that purpofe, amounting to
fix hundred thoufand crufados^ which was lavifhed in
public rejoicings at the entry of Philip the Third of
Spain.
The honour of executing this noble ftrudure was referved
for John the Fifth. This munificent Prince laid the foun-
dation of it in the year one thoufand feven hundred and
thirteen, and in nineteen years after, the whole was com-
pleted. The city of Lifbon, in teftimony of their gra-
titude, raifed an arch to his memory, wherein, among other
infcriptions, we obferve the following :
JOANNES . V.
LUSITANORUM . REX.
JUSTUS . PIUS . AUG. FELIX . P. P.
LUSITANIA . IN . PACE . STABILITA.
VIRIBUS . GLORIA . OPIBUS . FIRMATA ,
PROFLIGATIS . DIFFICULT ATIBUS .
IMO . PROPE . VICTA . NATURA
PERENNES . AQUAS . IN . URBEM . INVEXIT .
ET .
BREVI . UNDEVIGENTI . ANNORUM . SPATIO .
MINIMO . PUBLICO .
IMMENSUM . OPUS . CONFECIT .
GRATITUDINIS . ERGO .
OPTIMO . PRINCIPI .
ET.
PUBUC^ . UTILITATIS . AUCTORI .
HOC . MONUMENTUM . POS . S. P. Q^O.
ANNO . D. M.D CCXXXVIII.
I Manoel
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 183
Manoel da Maya was the name of the architect who
dedgned and fuperintended the execution of the above
Aquedud:. The expence of it was partly defrayed by a
tax of one Rei upon every pound of meat fold in the capi-
tal. Of the produce of that tax we may form fome idea
from the following ftatement.
^luantity of Butchers Meat fold at the Shambles of Lifion
in the Tear 1789.
Weight in Arrobas.
27985 Oxen - - - 324895T
1279 Calves - - - 6033
ayS^^ Sheep - - - 18730^
11927 Hogs - - - 31971^.
381630
An Arroba is 32 lb.
Total weight in lbs. 122 12 160
The confumption of flefli meat is greatly reduced here
by the quantity of frefh and fait fifh, with which the
markets are conflantly fupplied. The poor in general on
days of abftinence ufe fait fifh, imported by Englifh fhips
from Newfoundland j they call it Bacalhao. In the year
one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine, there arrived
at Lifbon {ixty fhips partly laden with this fifh, which,
according to the entries at the cuftom-houfe, weighed
fifty-nine thoufand and feventy-three quintals.
There
iS4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
There are many other public buildings belides dwelling-
houfes in Lifbon well deferving of notice; to defcribe them
all, would exceed the limits of this work : but there are
few or no ancient remains of architecflure to be found
there, which is very extraordinary of a city that boafts
fuch remote antiquity. An ancient infcriptional ftone is
now and then difcovered in digging for foundations, but
very little more. I have given in plate VIIL copies of
fuch fragments of this kind as came within my obferva-
tion. The infcription A was found in a fubterranean
cave in Rua Bella da Rainha^ in the year one thoufand
leven hundred and feventy. The other four, viz. B, C,
D, E, were difcovered in a fimilar manner ; the originals
from whence thefe were copied, may be feen in the wall
of a houfe at the corner of Magdalen Street.
■Charitable Inftitutions,
Public charities have always been confidered as a lead-
ing feature in the charadter of every nation. When the rich
fhare part of their fuperfluities with the indigent, when
j:he healthy by their labour contribute to fuccour the
feeble and diftrefled, then humanity performs the befl:
offices of fociety. Portugal is not deficient in this refpedt;
for the people, though not compelled by law, contribute
voluntarily to the fupport of different charitable inftitu^
tions.
Here
Hate Vm.
SACRVM ^
AE SCVL Al^'i,
M-AFRAXtVS • EVPORjQJ
' AB I V S-DAP.I ZS^T
AVG
iVrvNiciPio =
IMERCVRV]
AVGVSl
PER>nssNa)!
DEBIT.,
Ml
[PEYM'^^Mfitr
. MATJtl" BE .
AIPHR'Y G,FI
PI21RPERNLIM
~^SS -FE-C^ S -SE^'
E
Li- CAECILTO, i.T.CEiEM-EEcFc
QVAEST. FK0^1>X\ BAET .
TlilB, PEEB . PRAETOR! .
FEE.IVE.OLISIFO
fUblUtid- Jiay ifi 7ff!> by Ccuiea JkrUa^ie^ StranA L anJ^n..
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 185
Here is a foundling hofpital, properly named the
Mifericordia ; on the outfide of it is a cradle where the
infant is laid, of which notice is given by the ringing of
a bell. Thefe foundlings, as they advance in years, are
carefully inftruded in the principles of religion and mo-
rality ; at a proper age male children are apprenticed to
refpedlable tradefmen, and the girls put to fervice. In
the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine the
number of children received into this Hofpital amounted
to one thoufand two hundred and feventy-nine.
Of thefe there died - - - 405
Claimed by their fathers - - ^ 4
Given out to nurfe - - "853
Reared in the Hofpital - - - 17
The Royal Hofpital of St. Jofeph receives the infirm of
both fexes of every nation ; it is very well attended by
phyficians and nurfes ; the patients are comfortably lodged,
and in every refpeft well treated. In the year one thou-
fand feven hundred and eighty-nine, the number of pa-
tients received into this Hofpital amounted to 11,020
Remained in it fince the foregoing year - 778
Total 11,798
Of the above number there died in the fame year 1,308
Difcharged as cured - - - -9,688
Remained under cure - - - - 802
1 B Befides
iS6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Belides the above charitable inftitutions, there are fo-
cieties here called the Brotherhood of the Mifericordia
who are conftantly performing a6ls of charity. Thefe
venerable focieties 'proted: and comfort the diftreffed of
every religion, fe6l, or country, within the limits of their
obfervation. They are not content to await the folicita-
tion of the afflidled, but feek them out in their wretched
habitations, and adminifter to their wants. They take
orphans and poor children of indigent parents under
their protection, and rear them till they arrive at a proper
age to be fent as apprentices; then they put them under
the care of refpedable tradefmen, and do not with-
draw their guardianfhip till they are eftablifhed in their
rcfpedlive trades, unlefs they forfeit it by ill behaviour.
The females who are reared by them in a fimilar manner
muft be very circumfpecl in their condud ; when their
charadlers are irreproachable, induftrious tradefmen make
choice of them for their wives, as well for the fake of the
dowry to which they are entitled, as to gain the patronage
of the brotherhood.
Thefe humane focieties vifit the gaols and hofpitals, and
fend provifions to the different prifoners who have neither
money nor friends to fupport them, and fuch of them as
are detained for the gaoler's fees, after being acquitted, are
liberated through their humane bounty. Wlien a delin-
quent is condemned to die, they vifit him conftantly, they
confole him and accompany him to the place of execution,
exhorting
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 1S7
exhorting him to repentance. Their humanity does not
reft here; it extends to the grav^e, and even beyond the
grave ; for the remains of the vidim are interred with
decency, and a number of maffes offered up for his foul.
They perform iimilar offices for every perfon who dies in
indigent circumftances. Indeed it would be almoft im-
poflible to enumerate all the beneficent ads of the venera-
ble Brotherhood of the Mifericordia, ads founded on the
pureft principles of humanity and religion, without the lead
alloy of ofhentation or hypocrify. Oh merciful friends of
the human fpecies, how great the reward that awaits you
when fummoned before the great Tribunal of Mercy !
Nor is Lilbon the only place where thefe pious inftitutions
are eftablifhed ; they extend to every city and town in
the kingdom, and every part fubjed to the crown of
Portugal. We fincerely wifh they extended every where,
and were limited only by the limits of the globe.
Obfervattofts on the Laws of Portugal .
The King in perfon is fuppofed to prefide in all crimi-
nal courts of judicature, and the Judges, who derive their
authority immediately from him, may pronounce fentence
of death on delinquents tried and found guilty ; but exe-
cution is exprefsly forbidden till the expiration of twenty
days after faid fentence, in order that the criminal may
have an opportunity of reviewing his trial, and protefting
againft fuch points in it as do not exadly bear upon the
B B 2 offence.
i88 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL^
offence. This law was firft promulged by Alfonfo the
Second at Coimbra, in the year one thoufand two hundred
and eleven.
Several prifoners, purfuant to this decree, have protraded
their lives for many years. A ftriking inftance of this ap-
peared during the adminiftration of the Marquis de Pombal ;.
this Minifter ordered a return to be made of all the pri-
foners in the kingdom, with the nature of their alleged
crimes, and duration of confinement. The abufes pradiifed
by the officers of the prifons gave rife to the inquiry, for
it was cuftomary with the gaolers to liberate the prifoners
on their parole on receiving a proportionate gratuity.
Among the number thus enlarged, there happened one on
whom fentence of death had been pafTed feven years anterior
to the above order ; during which interval he lived in the
country, and earned his bread very honeftly. The gaoler
now fummoned him to appear, he inftantly obeyed, re-
entered the condemned cell, and was ordered for execu-
tion ; but on a reprefentation of his conduct being made
to the King, he was pardoned in confideration of his
pundtual regard to his promife, and the blamelefs cha-
rafter he maintained in the neighbourhood wherein he
worked.
There is one great defect in the adminiftration of the
criminal law, which calls loudly for rediefs. Prifoners
committed
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 189
committed on alleged crimes, are fuffered to remain many-
years in prifon before they are brought to trial. If in
the interval an innocent man fliould die, he finks into the
grave with all the accumulated infamy of a delinquent.
During the reign of John the Second and of his fuc-
cefTor Emanuel, criminals, inftead of being put to death,
were employed in the Portuguefe fleets that viflted Africa
or Afia, and fent upon hazardous expeditions in the
newly difcovered countries. If they fucceeded in the ob-
jed of their enterprife, their crimes were expiated for the
fervice they rendered to the ftatej and it was not unufual
to find men of this delcription, after a few years, reformed
in mind and manners, and become ufeful members of
fociety. The punifhment of tranfporting criminals to
foreign fettlements alfo originated with the Portuguefe, a
mode of punifhment, perhaps of all others, attended with
the moft falutary confequences to the criminal and the
community.
The Clergy, X am informed, are not confined for of-
fences in the common prifons, there is one called the Al-
jube fet apart for them ; this prifon is fituate near the pa-
triarchal church, and under the jurifdidiion of the Patriarch.
Formerly the Clergy could only be arraigned by the canon
law; but this privilege has been lately fet afide; they are
now amenable to the civil law, an ordinance which gives
great fatisfadion to the kingdom at large.
1 3 There
190
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
There is a prifoii at the South end of the city, on the
vero"e of the Tagus, which at prefent is unoccupied.
During the adminiftration of the potent minifter it was
much crowded, particularly when the edid was iirft iffued
for the expullion of the Jefuits.
This prifon may be conildered as the Baftile of Portu-
gal ; the ftrength of its walls, gratings and cells, ftrike
the fpedator with horror ; and what renders it ftill more
terrific, is a contiguous rope-walk, in which many an
unhappy prifoner imagined he faw his deftiny fpun.
I m prifon men t for debt was aboliflied by an edid: in one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-four ; in its ftead the
law has prefcribed a more equitable mode to fatisfy the
rcafonable demands of the creditor.
The Englifli fubjeds who refide here are exempted, in
fome degree, from the eftablifhed laws of the country,
as fpecified in the following articles of the Treaty of one
thoufand fix hundred and fifty-four :
AcTiCLE VII. — " For the judging of all caufcs relatinf
*' to the people of this Republic, a Judge Confervator
" fliall be deputed, from whom no manner of appeal fliall
*' be granted, except to the Senate of Rellaqaoit^ where the
*' jaw-fuits commenced, and appealed to that court fliall
*' be determined within the fpace of four months."
4 Article
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. J91
Article VIII. " That if any of the people of this
*' Republic fhall die within the kingdoms and dominions of
*' the moft Serene King of Portugal, the books, accounts,
" goods, and aflets belonging to them, or to others of the
*' people of this Repulic, fhall not be feized nor pofiefled
*' by the judges of the orphans and perfons abfent, or by
*' their minlfters and officers ; nor fhall they be liable to
*' their jurifdiaion ; but the fame goods, merchandize,
*' and accounts fhall be delivered to the Englifh fadors or
" procurators reading in that place, who are nominated
" or deputed by the deceafed : but if the defundl, whilft
** living, did not nominate any, then the faid goods, mer-
** chandize, and accounts fhall, by the authority of the
" Judge Confervator, be delivered to two or more Englifh'
" merchants refiding in the place, and approved of by
" the Englifh Conful, after having given fecurity, by un-
" exceptionable bondfmen, (who fhall alfo be approved
" by the fame Englifh Conful,) for refloring the faid goods,
♦' merchandize, and accounts to the right owners, or to
" their true creditors ; and the goods which fhall appear
" to have been the deceafed' s, fhall be delivered to his
" heirs, executors, or creditors."
Article XIII. " That none who are commonly
" called Alcaydes, (/. s. Bailiffs,) or any other officers of
" his Royal Majefty, fhall feize or arreft any of the people
" of this Republic, of what rank or condition foever,
" except
192
TRAVELS IN PORTQGAL.
" exxept in a criminal caufe, being detefted in any fla-
" errant fact, unlefs he be firft impowered in writing by
" the Judge Confervator ; and that the aforefaid people,
" in all other refpects, as to their perfons, domeftics, and
" dwellings, books of accounts, interefts, merchandize,
" and all other goods belonging to them, fhall enjoy
" equal and the fame immunity within the dominions of
" the moft Serene King of Portugal, from imprifonment,
" arrefts, and other moleftations whatfoever, as already is,
" or fhall hereafter be granted to any other Prince or people
" whatfoever in alliance with the King of Portugal ; nor
" fhall they be hindered by any permit or protedion, to
" be granted by the faid King to his fubjecls, or others
" frequenting his dominions, from recovering their debts ;
*' but they fhall have a right to fue any man to juftice for
" the recovery of any juft debt, although he be fheltered
" under the patronage or protection of any perfon what-
" foever, or fecured by any Alvara, or written law, or
*' whether he be a farmer of the revenues, or invefted with
" any other privilege."
Whether fome claufes of the above articles have not been
modified during the adminiftration of the Marquis de
Pombal, I am not very certain; but the greateft part, if
not the whole of them, ftill continue in iorce.
Methue?i
RAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 193
Methuen Treaty »
The laft Treaty of Commerce concluded between
Portugal and England was in the reign of Queen Anne.
This is commonly called the Methuejt Treaty, on account
of its being ratified on the part of Great Britain by John
Methuen Efquire. As it is very fhort, w^e fhall give a
copy of it.
A Treaty of Commerce betwixt the 7noJl Serene Lady
Anne^ ^ueen of Great Britai/ty aiid the mof Serene
Lord Don Peter, Ki?ig of Portugal and of the Al-
garvesy &c. agreed upon and concluded in Lifbon, the
2']th of December 1703.
Article I. " His Sacred Royal Majefty of Portugal
*' promifes, both in his own name and that of his fuc-
*' cefTors, to admit for ever hereafter into Portugal the
*' woollen cloths, and the reft of the woollen manufac-
" tures of the Britons, as was accuftomed till they were
** prohibited by the laws. Neverthelefs, upon this con-
*' dition ; that is to fay,
Article IL " That her Sacred Royal Majefty of
" Great Britain fhall, in her own name and that of her
" fuccelTors, be obliged for ever hereafter to admit the
c c " wines
194- TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
*' wines of the growth of Portugal into Britain ; fo that
*' at no time, whether there fhall be peace or war between
" the kingdoms of Britain and France, any thing more
" fhall be demanded for thefe wines by the name ol cuf-
" torn or duty, or by any other title whatfoever, diredly
'' or indiredlly, (whether they fliall be imported into Great
*' Britain in pipes or hogfheads, or other cafks) than what
" fhall be demanded ior the like quantity or meafure
" of French wine, deducing or abating one half of the
" cuftom or duty. But if at any time this dedudlion or
" abatement of cuftoms, which is to be made as afore-
" faid, fhall in any manner be attempted and prejudiced,
" it fhall be jufl and lawful for his Sacred Royal Majefty
" of Portugal again to prohibit the woollen cloths, and
" the reft of the Britifh woollen manufadtures.
" Given at Lifbon, the 27th of the month cf
" December 1703.
" Joh7i Methuen, L. S."
As the trade of England with Portugal is well known,
we fhall not recapitulate it here : but as that of Ireland
with Portugal is not generally known, fome account of
the fame may not be uninterefting. A gentleman refiding
in Lifbon, who has good information in thefe matters,
favoured me with the following paper, which I believe
has not been hitherto publifhed :.
I Trade
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
195
Trade of Portugal ivith Irelajid^ from March 1781 till
March 1782.
Exports.
Valae.
£'
X.
d.
Cork
-
2,458
I
lot
Drugs
«
45 1 97
7
10
Dying Stuff
-
2,152
5
2
Almonds
-
599
12
lit
Figs - - -
-
650
14
lO
Raifins
-
i»997
lO
2
Suceces Liquoritia
-
2>^S
16
8
Oranges and Lemons
-
2,893
18
9
Oil -
-
3,490
19
2
Pot Afhes * -
-
5,687
10
0
Salt
-
23,656
5
4
Raw Silk
-
621
6
8
Thrown Silk, undyed
-
792
10
0
Brandy
-
4,605
18
0
Vinegar . -
-
459
3
9
Wine
-
43,821
lO
0
Small Articles —
-
1,146
II
0
X- 99,557 2 2
* What is here called Pot Afties, is in gave it that name on account of the war.
reality Barilla from Spain -, probably they The wine alfo is partly Spaniflj.
c c 2 Imports.
19S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Imports.
Beef
Butter
Candles
Cheefe
Fifh
Tanned Hides *
Linen Cloth
Pork
Small Articles
Value.
£. s.
<f.
19,118 0
a
105,846 II
3
729 4
2
ijoi 7
6
1,118 10
0
4»55o 0
0
S^^S'^ H
If
7»374 0
0
299 19
3t
X. 146,388 6 4
Obfervatlons on the Manners and Cujloms of Portugal.
The Inhabitants of Lifbon may be ranked under four
clafles ; piz. the Nobility, the Clergy, the Traders, and
the Labouring People. The obfervations I am about
to offer on each clafs contain very little more than may
be colledted by every one in the ftreets or the roads,
in markets or cottages. To proceed in the mofi: natural
order, we fhould begin with the pedeftals of the ftate ;
but for once, we fhall reverfe the order of the ftrudlure,
and commence with what is called " the Corinthian
** Capitals of poliflied Society."
* Part of the above articles were for hides, particularly, could not be for the ufe
i^pain, but not mentioned on account of of Portugal, as the importation of them is
th^ war with Great Britain. The tanned prohibited in that country.
The
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 197
The Nobility may be confidered as a body entirely dif-
tinS: from the other three ; the principal affairs of the
ftate are committed to their truft ; th^y refide in the ca-
pital, or its environs, and feldom vifit their eftates in the
provinces. They efteem it an honour to be born in the
capital, and alfo to dwell there. They are educated like-
wife at Lifbon, in a college founded for that purpofe by
King Jofeph. Hence it is called the Collegia das Nobres,
the College of Nobles. Prior to the eftablifhment of this
college they were educated at Coimbra, a place apparently
much better adapted for that purpofe ; as it poffeffes many
advantages not to be found in a commercial city. The
fragrance of the air, the ftillnefs of the country, and the
delightful profpedls with which Coimbra abounds, are
great incitements to ftudy ; beiides, it is enriched with
immenfe literary treafures, the accumulation of ages ; and
its buildings are very magnificent. Now, the feminary at
Lifbon is deficient in all thefe points. It appears, there-
fore, that the Nobility have made a bad exchange. There
is a wide difference between a College of Nobles and a-
noble College.
The Nobility, comparatively fpeaking, are not very
rich ; for though their patrimonies are large, their rents are
fmall. I doubt if any of them has ever feen a map of his
eftate, or exadly knows its boundaries. If ever they
deign to turn their attention towards the conflruding of
roads and canals, and not confider agriculture a purfuit
1 1 unworthy
198 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
unworthy of Gentlemen, they will become the richeft
Nobility in Europe, on account of the vaft extent of their
landed poflefiions.
In the diftributlon of their fortunes they Tnew great
prudence without the appearance of parfimony. A coun-
try wherein there are no race-horfes, licenfed gambling
houfes, or expenfive miftrefl'es, a Gentleman may live
fplendidly upon a moderate income; fortunately thefe al-
lurements to difTipation are unknown to them. Nor do
they excite the envy of the poor by midnight orgies or
gilded chariots. Their time is fpent between their duty
at court, and the focial enjoyments of private parties.
The fine arts, which to the fuperior clajGTes of ev^ery
nation of Europe are fources of the moft refined pleafure,
are almoft entirely negle6ted by the Nobility of this coun-
try; neither do they appear to take much pleafure in the
cultivation of the fciences, though they poffefs mofl: ex-
cellent capacity for both. Their lives are an even tenor
of domeftic felicities, not remarkable for brilliant adlions,
and but rarely ftained by vice. The fame of their illuftri-
ous anceftors juftly entitle them to every honour and re-
aped: ; but whilft they glory in the remembrance of their
achievements, they feem to forget their maxims. It muft
be allowed, however, that they poffefs many amiable qua-
lities. They are religious, temperate, and generous, faith-
ful to their friends, charitable to the diftreffed, and warmly
attached
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
199
attached to their Sovereign ; whofe approbation, and a
peaceful retirement, conftitute the greateft happinefs of
their lives.
With refped to the Clergy, I was not furniflied with
information fufficient to form an accurate eftimate of their
true charadler, and I fhall not prefume to fpeak from re-
port of fo refpedable a body. Among thofe with whom.
I had the honour to be acquainted, I found fome poilefTed
of great liberality and talents ; in proof of this I need only
mention his Grace the Bifhop of Beja, whofe piety and
learning would do honour to the Apoftolic or Auguftan
ages. I might alfo inftance the Abbe Correa chaplain to
his Grace the Duke de Alafoens, and Father de Souza
author of feveral pieces on the Arabic language.
There are feveral other men of eminent talents amoncr
the Clergy, but concealed in gloomy cells ; and what
is extraordinary, the greater are their talents the more
careful are they in fecluding themfelves from all com-
munication with the world. It may be afked then,
why they do not oblige the world with fome of their
acquirements ? The reafon is- very obvious; the Portuguefb
lano-uapre is fo little known, that there is little or no fale
for books written in that language out of the country,
and in it, reading is very far from being general; very hw
books thereiore v/ill defray the expence of printing and
paper, efpecially if they treat on fcientific fubjcds. Thus
are
200 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL,
are men of letters deterred from making themfelves known
through this laudable channel, and the world is deprived
of their experience and wifdom.
It is true, that in all the learned profeflions, men will
be found who would render more fervice to the commu-
nity in an humbler fphere, and among the Clergy there
are, I am forry to add, but too many of this defcription ;
who are better calculated by nature and education to follow
the tail of the plough, than to difcharge the important
ties of that facred profeilion.
The Merchants are remarkably attentive to bufinefs,
and, as far as I could learn, juft and pundual in their
dealings : they live on a friendly footing with the foreign
traders who relide here, particularly the Englifh. Bank-
ruptcies are feldom known among them, and they are
careful in avoiding litigations; for it is a well known fa6l,
that the Gentlemen of the long robe in Portugal are not
to be furpaffed even by their brethren of the Englifh Court
of Chancery, in the art of protradling a fuit.
A Lifbon merchant paffcs his hours in the following
manner : he goes to prayers at eight o'clock, to 'Change
at eleven, dines at one, fleeps till three, eats fruit at four,
and fups at nine : the intermediate hours are employed
in the counting-houfe, in paying vifits, or playing at
cards.
To
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 201
To vlfit any one above the rank of a tradefmen, it is
neceflary to wear a fword and chapeau \ if the family
you vifit be in mourning, you muft alfo wear black ; the
lervants would not consider a vifitant as a gentleman un-
lefs he came in a coach ; to viiit in boots would be an
unpardonable offence, unlefs you wear fpurs at the fame
time. The mafter of the houfe precedes the viHtant on-
his going out, the contrary order takes place in coming
in.
The common people of Lifbon and its environs are a
laborious and hardy race ; many of them by frugal living
lay up a decent competence for old age ; it is painful to
behold the trouble they are obliged to take for want of
proper implements to carry on their work. Their cars
have the rude appearance of the earlieft ages ; thefe vehicles
are flowly drawn by two flout oxen. The corn is flielled
by the treading of the fame animals as in the days of the
Ifraelites ; hence probably the fcripture proverb, " thou
" fhalt not muzzle the ox that treadeth the corn." They
have many other cuftoms which to us appear Very fingu-
lar; for example, women fit with the left fide towards tjie
horfe's head when they ride. A poftilion rides on the left
horfe. Footmen play at cards whilft they are waiting for
their mafters. A taylor fits at his work like a fhoemakcr.
A hair-drefl'er appears on Sundays with a fword, a cockade,
and two watches, or at leaft two watch-chains. A tavern
is knov/n by a vine bufh. A houfe to be let, by a piece
D D of
202 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
of blank paper. An accoiiclieufe door, by a white crofs.
And a Tew is known by his extra catholic devotion.
The lower clafs of both fexes are very fond of gaudy
apparel ; we obferve even the fiOi-wornen with trinkets
and bracelets of gold about the neck and wrifl. The
fruit-women are diftinguifhed by a particular drefs. In
plate IX. figure A, we have given the reprefentation of
one of them, with the afs by v/hich the fruit is conveyed
to the market. The cuftom of M^earing boots and black
conical caps is peculiar to thefe women ; but for what
reafon, if any there be, I could not learn. Figure B, in
the fame plate, is a reprefentation of a woman of Beira
in the ufual drefs of the females of that province. And
figure C is a fketch of a female peafant of the province of
Alenteju. \
All the drudgery is performed by Gallicians, who may
be called the hewers of wood and drawers of water of this
metropolis ; they are patient, induftrious, and faithful to
a proverb. One of the principal employments, in which
they are daily engaged, is fupplying the citizens with
water, which they carry on their fhoulders in fmall wooden
barrels from the different fountains.
Every Gallician in this fervitude is obliged, by the po-
lice of the city, to carry one of thefe vellels filled with
water to his lodgings every night, and in cafe of fire, to
8 haften
^
^
^
^
"<
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
103
haflen with it to affift in extinguifhing the flames at the
firft found of the iire bell ; any neglect in this refped: is
feverely punifhed ; on the contrary, they are fure to be
rewarded in proportion to their vigilance. But the people
are feldom vifited by that dreadlul fcourge : during my
refidence here, there was not an inftance of any accident
by fire.
In the houfes of foreign merchants, the Gallicians are
the only fervants employed, and many of the Portuguefe
prefer them to the natives in that capacity ; they cook the
victuals, clean the rooms, and make the beds. If there be
any female fervants in the Jioufe under the age of five and
thirty, they are invifible except to the miftrefs and her
daughters ; after this age they are left to their own difcre-
tion, as their charms are then fuppofed to be fufficiently
faded to render them fecure from the invaflons of gal-
lantry.
The Ladies feldom breathe the pure air, except in their
fhort excuriions to the next chapel, v/hich they vifit at
leaft once a day. The figures hereunto annexed (plate X.)
are reprefentations of a Merchant with his wife and maid-
fervant going to church. Their refpeclive drefs may be
inferred from thence. They walk exadlly in the order in
which they are here reprefented," that is to fay, one after
the other ; hence we thought it reafonable to facrifice to
truth the rules of pidlurefque grouping.
D D 2 The
204 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The Portuguefe Ladies poflefs many amiable qualities ;
they are chafte, modeft, and extremely affectionate to their
kindred. No woman goes out of doors without the per-
miffion of her hufband or parents. To avoid all fufpicion,
men, even though relations, are not allowed to vifit their
apartments, or to fit befide them in public places. Hence
their lovers are feldom gratified with a fight of them ex-
cept in the churches ; here they make fighs and fignals :
Addrefs and compliment by vifion,
Make luvc and court by intuition. Hud'tbras.
Notwithftanding the watchful eye of the Duenna, the
lovers contrive to exchange billet-doux^ and that in fo
fubtle a manner, that none can perceive it whofe breaft
glows not with a fimilar flame. The little boys who at-
tend at the altar, are often the meffengers on thefe occa-
fions. When one of thefe winglefs cupids receives the
letter, he makes his way through the audience till he ap-
proaches the fair one, then he throws himfelf on his knees,
repeating his Ave Maris Jlella^ and beating his breaft ;
after finifliing his ejaculations and crofling his forehead,
he falls on his face and hands, and fervently kiffes the
ground; in the mean time he conveys the letter under the
Lady's drapery and brings back another.
At other times when the lovers are coming out of the
church, their hands meet as it were by chance in the
holy water font \ by this means they exchange billets,
4- and
^
1^
!5g
^
V ■»
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 205
and enjoy the dele<^able pleafure of prefling each other's
fingers.
Various are the contrivances to which they are com-
pelled to refort, in order to elude fufpicion 3 and in no
part of their lives do they evince more prudence than
during their courtfhip. Their natural difpoiition to fe-
crecy is the means of their continuing for years under
the impreflion of the tender pajfTion ; and they muft have
fallen victims to it, were it not that refined, that virtuous
love which Guevara defcribes.
Arde y no quema ; alumbra y no danna ; quema y no
confumCy refflende y no lajlima^ furijica y no abrafa ; y
aun Calient a y no congoxa.
It glows, but fcorches not; it enlightens, but hurts not;
it confumes not, though it burns ; it dazzles not, though
it glitters; it refines without deftroying; and though it be
hot, yet it is not painful.
Marriage- feafts are attended with vaft expence ; the re-
fources of the lower clafs are often exhaufted in the pre-
parations made on thefe occafions. The nuptial bed-
chamber is ornamented in the moft coftly manner, with
filks, brocades, and flowers ; even the wedding-fheets are
trimmed v/ith the fineft lace.
In
2o6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
In their chriftcnings and funerals alfo they are very ex-
travagant; but in other rcfpecls very frugal and temperate,
particularly the females, who feldom drink any thing but
water; if thev drink wine, it gives rife to iufpicion of
their chaftitv, and fufpicion is often held tantamount to a
crime. The Emprefs Dona Leanor, daughter of Edward
Kino: of Portusral, endeavoured to introduce the like cuf-
torn among the German Ladies ; but neither her Majefty's
example or perfuafion could induce them to exchange the
*' milk of Venus" for the limpid rill.
The abftemioufnefs of the Portuguefe Ladies is confpi-
cuous in their countenance, which is pale, tranquil, and
modeft ; thofe who accuftom themfelves to exercife have,
neverthelefs, a beautiful carnation. Their eyes are black
and expreilive; their teeth extremely white and regular.
In converfation they are polite and agreeable ; in manners
affuaiive and unaffe6tcd. The form of their drefs does
not undergo a change, perhaps, once in an age ; mil-
liners, perfumers, and fancy-drefs-makers are profeffions
as unknown in Lifbon as in ancient Lacedemofi.
Widows are allowed to marry, but they do not avail
themfelves of that privilege as often as in other countries.
There are many Portuguefe, particularly thofe of the good
old ftock, who look upon it as a fpecies of adultery fanc-
tioned by the law.
Women
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 207
Women do not aflume the family-names of their huf-
bands, as with us. In all the viciflitudes of matrimony
they retain their maiden names.
The men are generally addreffed by their Chriftian
names, as Senhor Pedro. Stipe?yioj?ies are alfo very com-
mon here, which are derived from particular trades, re-
markable incidents, places of relidence, or ftriking per-
fonal blemilhes or accomplifliments.
Strangers' furnames are frequently tranflatcd, efpecially
if they bear any allufton to fabftantives or qualities. For
example, Mr. Wolf, they call Se?ibor hobo ; Mr. White-
head, Senhor Cabeca Bra?ica. To the Chriftian names
of men and women are often fuperadded thofe of their
parents, for diftindion fake. This cuftom obtained very
much among the ancient Irilh, and is not unufual at this
day in the Southern provinces of that country.
With refped: to the middling clafs, in their ideas and
manners they differ from thofe of the reft of Europe ; the
unfrequency of travel, except to their own colonics, ex-
cludes them from modern notions and modern cuftoms ;
hence they retain much of the ancient fimplicity of their
anceftors, and are more converfant in the tranfadions of
Afia or America than of Europe.
Whether
2o8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Whether it proceeds from a fondnefs for eafe, or want
of curiofity, they appear to have an averfion for travelling,
even in their own country. A Portuguefe can fteer a fhip
to Brazil with lefs difficulty than he can guide his horfe
from Lifbon to Oporto.
People, thus eftranged from the neighbouring nations,
are naturally averfe from the influx of mere theoretical
dodrines, which tend to difturb the tranquillity of efla-
bliflied opinions. They exclude at once the fources of
modern luxuries and refinements, modern vices and im-
provements.
Hence their wants, comparatively fpeaking, are but
few, and thefe are eafily fatisfied ; their love of eafe ex-
empts them from many paflions to which other nations are
fubjeft ; grofs offences are rarely known among them,
but when once ofFended they are not eafily appeafed ;
pafiions that are feldom roufed a6l with the greater vio-
lence when agitated ; under this impreflion individuals
have fometimes been hurried to violent ads of revenge ;
but now, the vigilance of the magiflrates, and the growth
of civilization have blunted the point of the dagger.
The temperance of the people, and their exemption
from hard labour ; the fragrance ot the air, and the num-
ber of mineral fprings with which the country abounds,
are
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 209
are circumftances fo favourable to the human conftitu-
tion, that we fhould naturally exped: to find the Portu-
guefe live to a great age, yet there are not many remark-
able inftances of longevity among them ; but there are
fewer cut off by natural caufes before the age of three-
fcore, than among an equal number, perhaps, in any other
part of Europe. One rarely meets a Portuguefe, how-
ever aged, crippled with the gout, or bowed with in-
firmity.
The handfomeft perfons of both fexes are found in the
province of Eftremadura ; that fcourge of beauty, the
fmall pox, does not rage here with the fame violence as
in cold climates. The inhabitants negledt one thing,
which, in a country like this, would tend to expand the
human frame to its full perfe6lion, I mean bathing;
neither do they take exercife enough for the prefervation
of health.
The lower clafs are endowed with many excellent qua-
lities ; they are religious, honeft, and fober, affed:ionate
to their parents, and refpedlful to their fuperiors. We
muft not, however, exped: to find them poffefTed of thefe
qualities on the verge of fea-port towns, as their mari-
ners are there corrupted by mingling with refugee adven-
turers from various nations. Strangers, therefore, are often
mified, who form the charader of the people through this
adulterated medium. It is in the country only they can
E E be
2IO TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
be found, uninfluenced by foreign manners or foreign cuf-
tomsj in their true national ftate; and there we behold them
honeft, obliging, affable, and mannerly. A Portuguefe
peafant will not walk with a fuperior, an aged perfon, or
a ftranger, without giving him the right-hand fide, as a
mark of refpedt. He never pafies by a human being
without taking off his hat, and faluting him in thefe
words, the Lord preferve you for many years. In fpeaking
of an abfent friend, he fays, 7norro cojn faudades de o ver :
I die with impatience to fee him. Of a morning, when
he meets the companions of his toil in the field, he falutes
them in a complaifant manner, and inquires after their
little families. His day's work is computed from the
rifing of the Sun to its fetting ; out of which he is al-
lowed half an hour for breakfaft and two hours for dinner,
in order to refrefh himfelf with a nap during the meridian
heat. If he labour in the vineyard, he is allowed a good
portion of wine. When his day's work is over he fings
vefpers, and on Sunday he attunes his guitar, or joins
in a fandango dance, as reprefented in Plate XI. His
male children are educated in the neighbouring convent,
whence he alfo receives fuftenance for himfelf and family,
if diftreffed or unable to work. They all imagine their
country is the bleffed Elyfium, and that Liibon is the
greateft city in the world. In their proverbial language
they fay, " he who has not feen Liibon has feen nothing."
Indeed they have proverbs for almoft every thing, which,
being founded on long experience, are generally true,
though
a
G
&?
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. sii
though the above is a ftriking inflance to the contrary. OF
the countries which, like their own, do not produce corn,
wine, and oil, they entertain but a mean opinion. They
pidure to themfelves the mifery of the inhabitants of
Northern climates, who fhudder in the midft of froft and
fnow, whilft they themfelves are bafsing in their green
fields. Thefe circumftances, and the affedionate attach-
ment they have for their King, endear them to their na-
tive foil. They centre a great portion of their happinefs
in the fine climate with which nature has bleffed them, and
the abundance of delicious fruit the foil yields with little
labour. Under every misfortune they are fure to find con-
folation in religion ; and next to thefe divine favours,
mufic is the greateft folace of their lives : it difTipates the
forrows of the poor man, and refines the fentiments of
the rich ; life glides on agreeably amidft fuch endearino-
fcenes. It w^ould be vain to perfuade a Portuguefe that he
could enjoy fuch happinefs in any other part of the globe :
he is nurtured in this opinion, and if chance or misfortune
fliould impel him into a foreign land, he pines as if in a
ftate of captivity.
A fhort time before I left Li{bon I dined at a Spanifh
ordinary, near the convent of St. Francis, in company
with a gentleman who was a native of Malta, and a
Knight of that Order. The univerfallty of his informa-
tion, and the liberality of his remarks, induced me to
E E 2 requeft
212 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
requeft his opinion refpedling the Portuguefe. Thefe are
his obfervations on that head, as nearly as I can recolledl:
" There are no people in Europe, Sir, whofe real cha-
radler is iefs known than thofe of Portugal ; for as their
lano"uage is but little ftudied or underftood, our know-
ledo-e of them is derived chiefly from the Spanifli writers,
and a Spaniard is rarely known to fpeak favourably of the
Portuguefe. The latter, on the contrary, whatever might
be their real opinion of the former, are induced by the pre-
cepts of Chriflian charity to fpeak refpeftfuUy of them.
Of this we have a ftriking inftance in Jofeph Texera, a
Portuguefe Friar of the Dominican Order. This Friar
lived in the fixteenth century, and was confelTor to Don
Antonio, heir prefumptive to the crown of Portugal,
whom he followed into France. He there declared from
the pulpit, in one of his Sermons, that ^we are bound in
duty to love all men ^ of whatever religion^ JeEi^ or nation,
even the Cajiilians.
" From the political enmity which for ages have fub-
fifted between the two rival powers, it is probable that the
accounts we receive of the Portuguefe through the medium
of the Spaniards are not altogether to be depended upon.
On the other hand, if we take the charadler of the Portu-
guefe from the native writers, we fhall imagine they pof-
fefs not only all the good qualities in exiftence, but are
5 exempted
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
213
exempted from all the bad ones. This is like a painter
vainly attempting to produce a fine pidure without
fhadov/s.
" From the beft information I can colled:, the ancient
Portuguefe have been a brave, active, and generous people.
At a time when the other nations of Europe were funk
in floth and ignorance, they were employed in propagating
Chriftianity, in extirpating Infidelity, and enlarging our
knowledge of this fphere.
" Necefiity, the parent of adlion, was the fource of
all their great enterprifcs ; attacked on one fide by a pow-
erful and reftlefs neighbour, on the other by the Moors,
who had long infefted the country, their incurfions and
confpiracies required the exertions of every finew of the
ftate to preferve its independence. At length the horde
of Infidels were expelled, and the pride of the Caftilians
humbled.
" In the reign of John the Fir ft, when the Portuguefe
found themfelves fecure from foreign or domeftic foes,
their troops then inured to fatigue, and their Captains,
animated by military fame, purfued the Barbarians into
Africa. Their contefts in this quarter, though unprofit-
able, and almoft ruinous to the ftate, were ultimately
attended with confequences very fortunate for the powers
of
214 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
of Europe; as they diffufed a fpirit of enterprife which
afterwards led to all the modern difcoveries in navigation.
" The Lulitanian foldiers were brave and hardy, in-
nured to all the hardfliips of war, fatigue, hunger, and
thirft, which they bore with great patience in the hotteft
•climates. In the field their courage bordered on rafhnefs;
their natural impetuofity could never be retrained even
by the moft rigid military difcipline ; they were too am-
bitious of fignalizing their valour out of the ranks, by
which they fometimes caufed their defeat in deranging
the order of battle ; but when they fought in a phalanx,
the enemy found them invincible.
" The riches of Afia, the relaxation of difcipline, to-
o-ether with the ignorance and rapacity of the Governors
of India, at length corrupted the manners of the foldiers,
and defaced every trace of their ancient character.
*' Every department of the ftate was haftening to ruin,
when King Scbaftian afcended the throne; in him, as their
laft refuge, were centered the hopes of the people ; and
the tokens of virtue and courage he had given them in the
early part of his life, feemed to promifc the accomplifh-
mcnt of their expedations : he certainly inherited a great
portion of the valour of his anceftors, though time evinced
that he poffeffcd but very little of their prudence. No
Prince
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 215
Prince was ever more enamoured with a love of fame, nor
fought a more indired road towards the attaining of it.
The happinefs of his people is what conftitutes the real
fame of every Monarch ; yet this was the leaft of Sebaftian's
purfuit. The vain glory of excelling in arms occupied his
fole attention, and that glory he promifed to himfelf in the
plains of Africa : but, alas ! he, and the greater part of
thofe who accompanied him thither, found there not
laurels, but an untimely grave.
** The death of this Prince would have been the lefs
regretted, if he had not left a fucceffor to fill the throne
who was in the decline of life and underftanding, without
energy, without abilities to heal the bleeding wounds of
his expiring country. Providence, apparently, feeing its
diffolution approach, fent a Cardinal King to give it the
dying benediction. Thus we find that ftates, like indivi-
duals, have their infancy, maturity, and decline; and what
is not a little remarkable of this, it commenced with a
Henry, and with a Henry it expired. The firft was a
hero and a ftatefman, the latter pofTeffed neither of thefe
qualities, nor fupplied the want ot them by his wifdom.
" Philip the Second now appended the crown of Portugal
to that of Spain, It had been the invariable policy of
this Prince, and of his fuccefibrs, to render Portugal fub-
fervient by reducing its refources, which they were carry-
ing into effed: every day, till at length the Portuguefe, no
6 longer
2i6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
lono-er able to bear the chains of their foreign mafters, re-
volted; and, by their refolution and unanimity, fupplied
the want of forces in cafting off their bondage ; and ever
fince, the kingdom is gradually advancing to profperity
under its native and lawful Sovereigns.
" It is evident, however, that the advancement of the
country is by no means proportionate to its vail rcfources ;
nor is the ancient military fpirit of the people yet revived.
Some remains of the courage of their anceftors may ftill
linger among them ; but the contempt in which they hold
the profeffion of arms is fufficient to extinguifli every
fpark of military enterprife. For feveral years paft they
have admitted officers into the regiments of infantry with-
out talents or education, whofe ignorance multiplied abufcs
and relaxed difcipline. The abufe at length advanced to
that degree, that officers were appointed from among the
domeftics of noble families. When Count de Lippe was
appointed Commander in chief of the forces of the king-
dom, he endeavoured to eflablifli the dignity of the pro-
feffion. One day he happened to dine with a Portuguefe
Nobleman, who was a Colonel in the fervice ; one of the
fervants who attended at table was dreffed in an officer's
uniform: on inquiry, he found this attendant was a Cap-
tain in a regiment of infantry ; on which the gallant Com-
mander immediately rofe up and infifted upon the military
fervant's fitting at table next himfeif.
((
It
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 217
" It has always been the policy of the wifeft Generals
to preferve a degree of honourable dignity in the army ;
for pride is as commendable in a foldier as humility in a
prieft ; but fervility and military fpirit are incompatible.
This was the Count de Lippe's maxim ; and fuch was his
zeal for the honour of the profefHon, that he declared
openly it was a diflionour to an officer not to demand, or
refufe to give, fatisfadlion for an offence.
*' Since the reign of Jofcph the Firft, there has been a
great change for the better, not only in the army, but in
almoft every other department of the flate. When that
Prince afcended the throne, agriculture and manufactures
were fo much negledted, that the people depended upon
foreign nations for food and raiment ; the arts were de-
fpifed, and the revenues unprodudive. The Englifh, pur-
fuant to the Methuen treaty, fupplied the Portuguefe with
woollen cloths, in exchange for which they were to re-
ceive the wines of the country. The encouragement held
out by this treaty for the growth of wine, and the facility
which long experience has given the Portuguefe in that
branch of hufbandry, induced the farmers to negled the
-cultivation of corn, and convert their fields into vineyards;
thus the grape increafed in proportion as the grain di-
miniffied.
" This was partly the ftate of Portugal when King
Jofeph appointed Senhor Carvalho, afterwards Marquis dc
F F Pombalj
2i8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Pombalj his Prime Miniftcr. The adminiftration of this-
great ftatefman forms an epoch in the annals of Portugal.
He endeavoured, and not in vain, to dired: the attention
of the people to their real interefl ; the landholders were
compelled to diminifh their vineyards, and appropriate a
third part of them to grain and other fpecies of culture.
This wife regulation was attended wdth fuch falutary
effeds, that to this day it is coniidered one of the moil,
beneficial acts of his adminiftration.
" As the natural refult of agriculture is populationj he
prepared employment for the riling generation, by cfla-
blifhing manufactories of different kinds ; induftry thus
excited, the country began to wxar a new face ; the
merchant engroffed the trade heretofore carried on by
foreigners, and the farmer fed and clothed himfelf and his
family with the produce of his native foil.
*' The Marquis's efforts, thus far crowned with fuccefs^
urged him to further exertions ; he endeavoured to propa-
gate a fimilar fpirit of induftry among the Colonifts, who
had long felt the inertia of the mother country. But
knowing how vain it was to exped either activity or in-
duftry from a people groaning with the chains of flavery,
he publiGied an edid, whereby the inhabitants of Brazil,
and of the other colonies appertaining to the crown, were
to be reftored to their freedom, and to enjoy the fame
immunities as the natives of Portugal. An act fo replete
3 with
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 219
with juftice and humanity, is fufficicnt to expiate many
of the political fins imputed to the Marquis de Pombal,
and is a lafting honour to Portugal, which, was the firft
among the modern nations of Europe that enflavcd man-
kind, and the firft that fet the humane example of their
emancipation. It was alfo the £rft that taught Europe
navigation and commerce upon a comprehenfive fcale :
had not Prince Henry exifted, we fhould not, probably,
have ever heard of Columbus. // is to the difcoveries of
the Porttiguefe in the old ivorld (fays Voltaire) that lice are
iitdebted for the new. They were, in fa6l:, the firft that
explored the coaft of Africa, that fuggefted the exiftence
of the Weftern world, and difcovered the road to India.
A people who have been thus early in fo many enter-
prifing purfuits, and exhaufted their vigour when moft of
the furrounding nations were but waking from their {lum-
ber, might reafonably be allowed to take a refpite. They
are now but commencing their career anew ; and it miift
be left to time to determine whether they will ever more
re-eftablifh the once refpedable name of L-ufitanians."
F F 2
The
22a TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The following obfervations on the ftate of the weather,
I am indebted for to my friend the Reverend Herbert Hill,
Chaplain to the Britifli Fadory at Lifbon.
ExtraSis fro?n Meteorological Obfervations^ made at Lijhon
in the Tears \']^l^ 1784, 1785.
1783. 1784. 1785.
Fair weather Days 171 157 1 55 1 The general number of
Cloudy and ihowers Io6|- 132 127 V days of fair weather is
Settled rain - 88 67 83 \ fuppofed to be 20c.
Quantity of Rain mark'd by lines, 1 2 to a French inch.
Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May, June. July. Aug. Sept. Od:. Nov. Dec.
1783—527 25 46t 87 21 i2t o I 4 37t 427 79
1784 — 32 449141 8 o o o 6 45 30 106
j-85— 61 45 46 2>S 27 o^ oi. 15 34 27 21 76
1783, medium 27! T
1784, 33! CPoIegadas, or Inches — it ought to be, as Is
1785, 32^3 fuppofed, only 23 Polegadas.
State of the Thermometer, medium heat fuppofed to be ^'^.
1783 — medium heat for the year, about ^^.
Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. O^. Nov. Dec.
1784—54 SS 57 57 67 70 73 73 71 60 54 51
the medium therefore is (ii^ notwithftanding the thermometer
on June 15 was at 97, on July 16 at 99, on Auguft 13,
for two hours, at 106, and the day after at 103, on Decem-
ber 4. it was at 30°.
17S5 — the mean heat was 62 1, the thermometer never rofe higher
than 94, exprefled by decimals, the mean monthly heat was
Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. 061. Nov. Dec.
539 522 562 620 655 710 745 704 696 639 545 522
State
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 221
State of the Barometer, mean height at the fea 28 Polegadas, 2 Lines,
for elevated fituations — -i Line equal to 73 Feet.
1783 — 28.27 4 Feb. i6 and 19 Dec, 27.5 2 Nov.
1784 — 28.7 21 April 27.5 27 Dec.
1785 — 28.6 9 January 27.6 17 Feb.
Variation of the Needle w^as obferved about the latter end
of the year 1785 to be about 23°, or fomewhat more.
1789 23:
1 1«
1777, was remarkably wet.
1779 and 1782, the quantity of rain only 20 Polegadas.
1783, it rain'd 240 times in 124 days — Meafured by time,
it rain'd 572 hours, or 24 days.
1784, 384 times, or 23 days.
^7^Sf 232 times, or 19 days.
1782, February 19, it fnow'd.
1783, February 18, and March 12, it hail'd.
Obfervatlons for 1 78 1 .
Days. ^ Pol. I.
Fair weather 200 Quantity of rain 23 7
Cloudy - 88 Dec. 6. to Dec. 27. 9t
Rain - 77 18 only - 18 Lines,
Therm. 11 July 99° 7 i, • u. r.i, /^ o
T J- mean height of the year 63'
10 Jan. 34° J ^ JO
Pol. L.
^7 5?
■8 8.i
Barom. 9 Dec. 27 ^ ^^ ^o
29 25
Number
222 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Nianhcr rf Marriages^ Births^ and Dinths ycgijlerccl at IJJlon iu the
Tears 178S and 1789.
Anno 178S.
Anno 1789.
Marriages
1560.
-
1598.
Births
7041.
-
6561.
* Deaths
5'ii4-
.-
5386. .
Of the Portuguefe Jc^ws.
The late Lord Tarawley appears to have entertained a
fmgular opinion of the inhabitants of Portugal, when he
aflerted that they were compofed of Jews and Sebaflians.
One clafs of thefe, he fays, expedt the coming of the
Mefliah ; the other. King Sebaftian. Which of thefe two
parties have the ftronger faith I leave the reader to con-
jedlure ; but I muft obferve, with his Lordfliip's per-
miflion, that there is a third party in Portugal, which
includes almoft every individual in it, w^ho expert neither
•until the Millennium. There might, indeed, be ftill a
few in the kingdom who are in expedlation of the Mefliah;
but even thefe few ai'e obliged to confefs that he is already
come.
Among the Jews of this country were formerly to be
found men of great talents. The celebrated edition of
"the Bible, which was publifhed at Farrara in one thoufand
live hundred and fifty-three, was tranflated by a Portu-
• The Friars, Nuns, and their domeflics, are not included in the lift of deaths.
guefc
TRAVELS TN PORTUGAL. 2^3
guefe Jew ; it is rendered nearly word for word with the
original Hebrew text into a fort of corrupt Spanilh, then
ufcd in the Jewifh fynagogues. Such words in the tranf-
lation as are not in the original are marked with afterifks.
This work was reprinted in line characters at Holland m
one thoufand fix hundred and thirty ; but many of the
words were altered, with a view to render them more intel-
ligible, and feveral of the afteriiks were omitted. The
firft edition is become very fcarcc.
In the reign of John the FiHl they had their fynagogues
and Rabbins in Portugal ; and John the Second and Ema-
nuel tolerated them at the commencement of their reigns.
Duarte Nonnez, a Jew, who was banifhcd from Portugal,
his native country, in the fixteenth century, \\'as preferred
by the Catholic King to be a privy-counfellor on account
of his great abilities, though all of that perfuafion were
formerly banifhed from Spain.
The following account of their expulfion from Portuoral
is chiefly extra6led from Oforio, Bilhop of Silva, whofe
relation is efteemed the moft corred; extant ; as he had
the beft information on the fubjed, and was an eminent
and impartial hiflorian, as well as a Chriftian philofopher.
Their Caftilian Majefties, Ferdinand and Ifabclla, hav--
ing conceived an averfion to this people, who were charged
with many ads ot impiety againft the Chrifcian religion,
baniihed-
224 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
briiiillied them from their dominions in the year one thou-
flmd four hundred and eighty-two. They difperfed into
different places, but the greateft part fled to Portugal.
John the Second gave them flielter, on condition that each
fliould pay him eight Ducats, and quit the kingdom at a
limited time, othervvife they fliould become flaves ; he
was bound to furnifh veffels to tranfport them wherever
they thought proper, and to give full liberty to all who
had a mind to depart.
Whilft King John's flate of health permitted him to
difcharge the affairs of the kingdom, he was careful in
performing his promife ; he gave orders to commiffion
veffels to tranfport them wherever they deflred, and com-
manded that none fhould moleft them. His orders, how-
ever, were not attended to, for the captains and feamen
treated them in the moft cruel manner, keeping them
cruifing backwards and forwards on the ocean till all their
provifions became exhaufled, and were conftrained to buy
of the captains at fo exorbitant a rate, that on landing
they were ftripped to the very fhirts ; nor did their wives
and daughters efcape the violence of thefe tyrants, but
became vidlims to their luft.
The reft of the Jews who remained in Portugal, partly
alarmed with the apprehenflons of fuch barbarous ufage,
and partly hindered by want of money to procure necef-
faries for the voyage, remained in the kingdom till the
6 time
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 225
time prefcribed had elapfed, and thus forfeited their Uberty.
Whoever now wiflied to have a Jewifh Have petitioned
the King, who generally afTigned them to fuch perfons as
he knew to be of a mild and merciful difpolition, and
difpofed to lighten the chains of the miferable wretches.
This happened a fhort time before the death of John ;
but it was the general opinion, efpecially of thofe who
had been moft converfant with the King, that, had he
lived a little longer, he would have giveu them their free-
dom upon eafy terms.
Such was the lituation of the Jews when Emanuel be-
gan his reign. This Prince being feniible that necefllty,
not choice, caufed them to continue in Portugal after the
limited time, generously reftored them to their liberty.
Induced by a grateful fenfe of fuch extraordinary bene-
volence, they offered him a large fum of money, which
he refufed ; being refolved to gain their affedlions by kind
treatment, and by degrees to convert them to the Chriftian
faith.
The peace, however, of the unhappy Jews was of
fhort duration : the clamour raifed againft them through-
out the nation induced the King to take the matter ao;ain
into confideration. His council was divided in opi-
nions, whether the Jews, who had been driven out of
Spain, and taken up their refidence in Portugal, fhould be
banifhed from thence or allowed to remain. In the mean
G G time,
226 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
time the King and Queen of Caftile fent letters to Ema-
nuel, earneftly intreating that he would not fuffer fuch a
perverfe people, fo much under the difpleafure of God
and the odium of men, to remain in his dominions.
Emanuel looked upon this as a point of the utmoft
delicacy. Some of his counfellors were of opinion that
they ought not to be exterminated, lince the Pope himfelf
had permitted them to dwell in his territories. Induced
by his example, feveral ftatcs in Italy, and many Chriftian
Princes in Germany, Hungary, and other parts of Europe,
had alfo granted the fame liberty, and allowed them to
carry on trade and bufinefs of all forts. Befides, (faid
they,) their banifhment can never reclaim them ; for
wherever they go they will carry their perverfe difpofitions.
A change of country will never effed a change of fentiment
in their depraved minds. Should they pafs into Africa,
on being driven from hence, which is not improbable, all
hopes of their converlion muft be loft. Whilft they live
among Chriftians, many of them will be influenced by
friendfhip and example to embrace the Chriftian faith, as
fome have already done, which can never be expeded
when they come to be mixed with blind and fuperftitious
Mahometans. Befldes, it will be very detrimental to
the public intereft, if thofe people, fome of whom pof-
fefs confiderable riches, carry their wealth to the Moors,
and teach our enemies the arts they have learned in our
nation;
On
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 227
On the other hand, thofe of a different opinion af-
firmed, that the Jews, not without reafon, had been ba-
nifhed from Spain, France, and many places in Germany,
by Princes who fet a lefs value upon the increafe of their
revenues than the interefts of religion: they perceived the
dangerous confequences of allowing fuch a people to
remain in their dominions ; that they were apt to impofe
on the fimple and infedl the illiterate with their perni-
cious doArine ; that it would be very imprudent to put
the leaft confidence in men fo inveterate againft our holy
religion, who were bound by no ties or obligations, but
ready to facrifice every thing to their intereft, pry into the
fecrets of the ftate, and give intelligence to our enemies.
It would likewife (faid they) be more eligible to banifli
them immediately when they can only carry away the
wealth they have fcraped together in other countries, than
to allow them to remain longer, and then to difmifs them,
after they fliould have amafl'ed confiderable riches,
Emanuel was influenced by the latter opinion, and de-
creed, that all the Jews, and Moors likewife, who had
refufed to embrace the Chriftian faith, fhould quit his do-
minions ; and fixed a day, after which all thofe who re-
mained in Portugal were to lofe their liberty.
When the day approached, they began to prepare for
their departure. Emanuel was greatly affli^led to think
that fo many thoufands of people fliould be driven into
G G 2 banifli-
228 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
banifhrnent ; and was defirous, at leaft, to convert their
children. For this purpofe he devifed a fcheme, which^
in fadt, was contrary to all juftice and equity, though
eventually attended with good confequences to the king-
dom. He ordered all the cliildren of the Jews, under
fourteen years of age, to be forcibly taken from their pa-
rents, that they might be educated in the Chriftian faith ^
an order which, in the execution, was attended with the
moft affeding circumftances.
What a- moving fpvedlacle was this to behold I Children
torn from the embraces of their fcreaming mothers ; others
dragged from the necks of their weeping fathers, and af-
fed:ionate brothers and fiflers, about to be feparated for
ever. The city of Lifbon was filled with cries and la-
mentations ; even the fpedtators could not refrain from
tears. Fathers and mothers, moved with indignation,
were commonly feen to lay violent hands upon themfelves,
and precipitating, out of love and compafTion, their infant
children into wells and pits, to avoid the feverity of this
decree.
There was flill another calamity that bore hard upon,
the unfortunate viftims ; fuch as were defirous of leaving
the country had not the liberty of fo doing. The King
was fo intent upon making converts of them, that he re-
folved, partly by rewards, partly by neceffity, to invite or
compel them to embrace the Chriflian faith. By agree-
1 1 ment
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, ^^^
ment he was to have provided them with fliipping, and
to allow them to depart unmolefted ; but this he put
off from time to time, and obliged them to refort from
all quarters to Lifbon, to be fent abroad, though at iirfl
he promifed tliree different ports for their departure.
The time was fo protradled by thefe delays, that the day-
fixed upon had elapfed, and all who remained forfeited their
liberty. Thus haraffed, they at length affedled to become
Chriftians ; by which they were reflored to their liberty,
and recovered their children. The King gave them great
encouragement, fo that many of them lived contentedly
in the Portuguefe dominions. " Upon whofe faith, (fays
" Montaigne,) as alfo that of their pofterity, even to this
" day, few Portuguefe can rely, or believe them to be real
" converts, though time and cuftom are much more po-
" tent counfellors in fuch changes, than all other con^
" ftraints."
Such were the methods ufed to bring about the con-^
verfion of the Jews ; but furely it muft be confeffed to be
unwarrantable. Will any one pretend to maintain, that
it is confiftent with the principles of common juftice, or
of religion, to force perverfe and obftinate minds into a
belief of things which, in reality, they rejed and de—
fpife ? Can any one pretend to hinder the freedom of the
will, or fetter the underftanding ? It is impoffible, and
directly averfe from the doctrine of Chrift. He does not
take
a-o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
take pleafuie in any thing that proceeds from force or
conftraint ; he is pleafed only with a voluntary facrifice
flowino' from the heart. He does not command violence
to be offered to the underftanding of men, but to invite
them by reafon and gentlenefs to the contemplation of
true religion. Befides, what is more prefumptuous than
for a mortal to take upon him to do what the Divine
Spirit only can effedt. It is He alone who is able to en-
lighten and purify the minds of men ; and fuch as He
finds not altogether perverfe and repugnant to His holy
influence, He removes from darknefs to the light of Chrif-
tianity.
That many of the Jews were not fincere in their coi-
verfion has been often evinced fince the above period, by
the numbers that have fuffered perfecution, or quitted the
country to avoid the rigour of the inquifition. The greateft
part of them have fettled in England and Holland ; and
among the Jews who refide in thefe countries, thofe of
Portugal are faid to be the moll refpe<3:able characters . I
know one of them in this country who is much refpeded
and efteemed by all who know him for his amiable qua-
lities ; he is kind and affedionate to his relations, and
warmly attached to his friends, among whom are people
of various fe6ls, Jews and Gentiles. If many of the de-
fcription of Mr. Rebello of Hackney have been banifhed
from Portugal, the lofs muft be very great indeed.
A And
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 231
And yet, notwithftanding the perfecutions they have
fuffered, the love of that country is fo rooted in their na-
ture, that many of them have been known to import earth
from Lifbon, and enjoined their furviving friends, as their
laft dying requeft, to depofite it along v^^ith their corpfe.
This is literally carrying the love of country into the grave.
There is fomething in the air and foil of Portugal fo con--
genial to the difpolition of the Ifraelites, that when once
accuftomed to it, neither time, nor change, nor perfecu-
tion, can alter their affections for it. Lufitania, in fhort,
is their favourite land ; their Salem ; for which they mourn
wherever fate compels them to ftray, like their anceftors of
old on the banks of the Euphrates, who hung their harps
on willow branches, and fighed for their beloved Salem.
Father Lewis de Souja.
It is to the pen of this Father that I am indebted for
the hiftory of the Royal Monaftery of Batalha, of which
I have given a tranflation in my account of that flrudlure.
Amongft the hiftorians of Portugal, he holds the firfl: rank
in point of ftyle and veracity. As the circumftance which
induced him to feclude himfelf from the world and become
a friar is rather lingular, a fhort account of it may not be
unacceptable to the reader.
In one thoufand five hundred and feventy-eight, when
Don Sebaftian, King of Portugal, was defeated and flain in a
pitched
232 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
pitched battle againft Muly Moloch, Emperor of Morocco,
many of the Nobility of Portugal who accompanied him
fhared the fame fate, and others who fell into the enemy's
hands were made captives.
Amongft the Gentlemen who accompanied King Sebaflian
in this unfortunate expedition, there was one whofe name
tlie biograT?her has omitted; it was included, however, in
the return of the flain. When his wife who refided in
Lifbon received the intelligence, ihe neverthelefs enter-
tained hopes that it might have been a miftake, and that
Heaven would yet favour her with a light of him.
Under this plealing expectation fhe remained ten years,
notwithflanding the repeated accounts fhe received from
the agents employed to redeem the captives confirmed
the relation of his death. Her friends, who were convinced
431 the truth of it, entreated her to relinquifh the idea of
ever feeing him, and to enter once more into the marriage
flate.
Soufa, at this time, moved in the firfl circles of fafhion:
his company was much fought for, as he was an excellent
fcholar, as well as an accomplifhed Gentleman, he paid
his addrefTes to this Lady : her incredulity refpeding her
hufband's death, at this time, began to give way, and fhe
was prevailed on by her relations to give him her hand.
Accordingly they were married, and lived together in the
greateft
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
^33
greateft harmony ; but it was of fhort duration : a mer-
chant from Africa arrived in Lifbon, fought out the Lady,
and informed her, that he was charged with a commiffion
from her hufband who was in captivity, and relied upon
her affedlions to expedite his releafe.
The unfortunate woman, quite overwhehned with fhame
and furprife in this affeding dilemma, afked de Soufa's ad-
vice, who was alfo afloniflied at the news. As he was a
prudent and confcientious man, he refolved to be guided
in a matter of fuch delicacy by the pureft didates of
honour.
In the firft place, in order to afcertain the fa£t, he had
recourfe to an ingenious expedient ; he conduced the
meflenger to a pidlure gallery in his houfe, told him
that a portrait of the Gentleman whom he affirmed to
have feen was in the colledion, and requefted him to
point it out as a proof that there was no miftake in his
declaration. The merchant endeavoured to excufe him-
felf, faying, that a long ftate of fervitude and cruel treat-
ment had made fuch a change in the captive Gentleman,
that he doubted if his moft intimate friends could recog-
nize him were he prefent ; neverthelefs, fays he, fome
leading features induce me to think that this is his por-
trait, pointing to the identical one. Soula, from this and
other collateral circumftances, was now convinced of the
truth of the whole, and applauded tl:^ merchant for his
humanity.
H H This
234 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
This affair affected Soufa very much ; he deliberated
with himfelf in what manner to a£t; at length he refolved,
having no children to provide for, to retire from the world,
and feclude himfelf in a monaftery. The wife approved
the refolution, and as a proof of her grief and affedtion,
retired alfo into a nunnery near Li{bon. But previous to
their feclufion, they ufed every means in their power, to
refcue the unfortunate Gentleman from captivity.
Soufa now entered into the Dominican order, and lived
in the convent of Bemfica near Lisbon. The Fathers of
this order, defirous of completing the hiftory of their founda-
tion, thought this a favourable opportunity, and knowing
Soufa to be a man of great talents, they requefted him to
undertake the tafk, and perfeft what Cacegas, a friar of the
fame order, had begun. He accordingly fet about it, and
after many years labour, publifhed it in the year one thou-
fand fix hundred and nineteen, under the name of Cacegas,
and his own; thus, from his extreme modefty, dividing the
honour of the work, the whole of which he could juflly
claim as his own ; but pofterity has done juftice to his
memory, and Cacegas' s name is now remembered only
through Soufa's works.
His fads are faid to be accurate and well arranged ; his
dedudions natural and folid ; his ftyle t!iroughout is
fimple and nervous ; and what adds greater honour to
his memory, he was a man of exemplary piety and hu-
manity. 6
In
256 TRAVELS IN PORTaOAL.
rigid Order of Saint Francis. They are governed by a
Prior, and live chiefly on fifh, fruit, and bread : each has
a feparate cell, about the fize of a grave, furniilied with a
mattrefs ; yet one of their community who lately died,
named Honorius, thinking the meaneil of thefe cells too
luxurious a habitation, retired to a circular pit at the rear
of the Hermitage, not larger than Diogenes's tub, for it
is but four feet diameter ; and here, after a reiidence of
fixteen years, he ended his peaceful days at a good old age.
The floor of it is ftrewed with leaves, which ferved for
his bed ; and the rugged flone, which he ufed alternately
as a pillow and feat, is flill to be feen there. Thefe in-
ftances of felf- denial fhew us into what a narrow compafs
all human wants might be reduced, and evince the truth
of the poet's affertion :
Man wants but little here below ;
Nor wants that little long. Goldfmith.
A Portuguefe nobleman, well known for his poetical
tafte, wrote a few lines extempore, defcribing the beauties
of this enchanting country, during my refldence there.
I have thus attempted them in Englifh :
Defcrlption of Cintra.
Cintra, whofe mountains feek the fl%:ies,
Thy vallies deck'd in living green ;
Thy flowrets rob'd in varying dies,
V/ith grottos form'd by Fancy's queen.
Refrefhinir
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 255
fpots in the kingdom. The greater part of it is planted
with fruit-trees, particularly orange; and though they are
fo clofe together, that their boughs intertwine, yet they
bear vaft quantities of delicious fruit.
The fruit and green markets of Lifbon are chiefly fup-
*plied from this luxuriant garden. Mufk and water-melons
grow in it in fuch abundance, that the inhabitants fell
them during the feafon for lefs than a penny a piece.
Of the peculiarity of the foil about this diftridl, Carca-
vella furnifhes a ftriking inftance; where there is a vineyard,
of no conflderable extent, that yields grapes different from
thofe of any other part of the kingdom ; its wine is well
known all over Europe, but I believe its name is better
known in general than its flavour; for it is not pofTible that
fo limited a fpot can yield one half of the wine fold in
London alone under the denomination of Carcavella, or
Calcavella, as it is improperly called*
Cork Convent,
This Convent, or Hermitage, is partly burrowed between
the rocks, which ferve as vaults to the church, facrifl:y, and
chapter-houfe, &c. and partly built over the furface. The
fubterraneous apartments are lighted by holes cut obliquely
in the rocks, and lined internally with cork, to guard
againft the humidity. Hence it is called the Cork Con-
vent» It is inhabited by about twenty hermits of the moft
rigid
254 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
. that in the regions of injiftity there may be Jlars ivhofc light
is not yet travelled down to iis fince their jirji creation.
But to return to our fubjed:. Here is a rock called
Pedra da Alvidras^ whofe height above the fea, which is
at the foot of it, apparently is not lefs than two hundred
feet ; and though it is very fteep, and the furface fmooth,
yet I am informed that the neighbouring labourers, with-
out ropes or apparatus of any kind, defcend to the bot-
tom of it to fifh, each carrying a rod and a bafket, and
clamber up the fame route. They often perform this tafk
for a fmall prefent, to amufe, or rather to terrify, thofe
who viiit the place. The leaft flip would be fatal to
them, as they muft inevitably be dafhed to pieces againft
the fhai-p projeding rocks beneath. I have not heard,
however, that any have fallen a facrifice to their temerity.
What a ftriking inftance is the above of the effefts of
education. A foldier would fooner undertake to face the
mouth of a loaded cannon, than to follow fuch a daring
example ; yet thefe people, who are accujftomed to it from
their infancy, appear diverted of fear on this occafion,
though, perhaps, they dare not venture by night to a
place reputed for the haunt of ghofts or goblins.
i\ fine valley, called Collares, extends between this and
the village of Cintra. It may be called the Golden Vale
of Portugal ; for it is one of the richeft and befl: cultivated
fpots
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. isS
who has publifhed a fhort defcrlptlon of Portugal, fays,
there remains fome fragments of it bearing the two fol-
lowing infcriptions :
*
Soli . et . Lunae .
C^Tius . AciDus . Perennis .
0 Leg . Aug . Pro . Provinciae .
lusitani^.
Soli . .^iterno . Lun^ . pro . jeternitate ,
Imperii . et . salute . Imper . Gai .
Septimii . Severi . AuGusTi . Pii . ET . Im'p .
Gags . M . Aurelii . Antonini . Pii .
Et . Julia . aug . — m . CiES •
Et . JuLi^ . Aug . matris . G^s . Dru .
SUS . VesTER . SiCILIANUS . VlATOUS .
Augustorum . T . Q^. Julius . Saturni .
Et . Antoxinus »
According to Florian de Campo, a continued chain of
mountains extends from this place, under the Atlantic
Ocean, to the Ifland of Madeira, which is diftant one
hundred and fifty leagues from thence. As it is eafier to
make afiertions of this kind than to prov^e them, an author,
who is fond of the marvellous, may advance them at plea-
fure, without apprehenfion of being refuted by ocular de-
monftration. Very fewj however, who have ventured into
the chaos of conjecture, have fucceeded better than Huygens j
his famous hypothefis gives us a fublime idea of the im-
menfity of fpace, and of the ineffable works of the Omni-
potent Being; befidcs, it is not improbable, as he obferves.
252 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
her Majefty, at whofe feet fhe fat during the concert. I
obferved, at different times, that fhe fpoke to the Queen,
and refted her hand upon her lap : this inftance of Royal
condefceniion to one of that perfecuted race, deferves to
be recorded for the honour of human nature.
About nine o'clock, two of the moft eminent perform-
ers on the violin played a duet : after which the Royai
family withdrew to the gardens, where a grand exhibition
of fire-works was prepared and played off, under the in-
fped:ion of a Prieft of Cintra.
When this was over, the Royal guefts fat down to fupper,
in a fuperb faloon, decorated with green boughs, fome
bearing bloffoms and others fruit. The table was laid
out with all the elegance imaginable. There was alfo a
table for the Nobility, Miniflers, and OfUcers of the guards,
and another for the Maids of Honour, in feparate apart-
ments. The princely ftyle in which every thing was con-
duced, refledts great honour on the v/ell known taffe and
hofpitality of the noble Marquis, whofe charadrer refls
upon a ftill more exalted bafis, his attachment to his
Sovereign and country, his moderation in all his adlionso
About fix miles South-weft of the village of Cintra,
are fome vefliges of a flrudture, fuppofed to have been a
temple dedicated to the fun and moon. Nimez de Leaoy
who
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 151
on the month of AugufI: laft. In the evening they were
entertained with an excellent concert, confifting of up-
wards of forty performers, among whom were fome emi-
nent muficians. Her Majefty was drefied in black. His
Royal Highnefs the Prince of Brazil fat on her right hand,
and the two Princeffes on her left : all were drefied in the
plaineft manner, fuch as every perfon mufl admire who
has a juft fenfe of true greatnefs. They were attended by
feveral of the Nobility and Minifhers of ftate.
The noble hoft begged her Majefty's permifllon to hear
an officer of the guards play a folo upon a Jew's harp ;
which being granted, he entered the room fully equipped
as on duty, and played a difficult piece in a mafterly
manner, infomuch as peculiarly to arreft the attention
of the Royal vifitants. Next appeared a beautiful girl,
about nine years of age, drefied in all the tinfelof theatric
pride: fhe fung an euloge to the Queen; and, at the fame
time, danced a kind of alemande. Her voice was clear
and melodious, her adlion graceful and fentimental. She
did not appear embarrafi'ed in the leafl: at the prefence of
the Sovereign, whofe power, magnificence, and virtues, fhe
was extolling to the ikies.
A dance followed after this between a black girl, a na-
tive of Africa, and a dwarf belonging to the Marquis de
Marialva: the African is named Don Rofa; ffie lives with
K K 2 her
250 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
chace, which are intelligible only to grooms and falconers,
but to confult the welfare of the people. Your Majefty
will find fufficient employment in attending to their wants ;
and if you will remove the grievances with which they are
oppreffed, you will find them dutiful and obedient fub-
jedis, if not — — here the King ftarting up in a rage in-
terrupted him, faying, if not .^ what then? If not, re-
fumed the Nobleman in a firm tone, they will look for a
better King.'
Alfonfo haftened out of the room, and in the higheft
tranfport of paffion exprelTed his refentment ; but as
paflion always begins in folly and ends in forrow, his rage
foon abated, and he returned with a ferene countenance to
the aflembly, whom he thus addreffed :
** I now perceive the truth of what you have juft ad-
vanced. A King, who will not perform the duties of his
throne, cannot have affectionate fubjedls. Remember, that
from this day you have to do, not with Alfonfo the fportf-
man, but with Alfonfo the Fourth, King of Portugal."
His Majefty did not fail to adhere to his promife. He after-
wards became one of the beft Kings that ever reigned in,
Portugal.
The Marquis de Marialva has a manfion near this vil-
lage, where the Royal family honoured him with a vifit
3 oii
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 249
no gardens annexed to it on account of the precipice to
the rear.
Alfonfo the Fourth, at his acceflion to the throne,
pafled a month here together in hunting the wild beads,
which, in his time, roved in numbers about thefe moun-
tains. The fevere reproof he received from one of his
fubjeds on that occafion deferves to be recorded.
Whilft the King was enjoying the pleafures of the chace
with his favourites, the affairs of the ftate were configned
to men who fludied their own intereft more than that of
the public. The Nobility, perceiving the abufes of the
Minifters, and the Sovereign's inattention to the duties of
his crown, held a council at Lifbon, to which they invited
the Prince. He accordingly appeared ; but, inftead of
attending to their deliberations, he proceeded to recite his
adventures at Cintra, with all the levity of a young fportf-
man. When he had finilhed his narrative, one of the
Noblemen ftood up, and thus addreffed the King :
" Sire, — Courts and camps were allotted for Kings, not
woods and mountains. When bufinefs is facrihced to
amufement, the affairs even of private perfons are in dan-
ger; but when pleafure engroffes the thoughts of a King,
a whole nation muft inevitably be configned to ruin.
Sire, we came here, not to hear the adventures of the
K K chace,
248 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
it after a clofe confinement of feven years. The floor of
the apartment wherein he was immured, which is paved
with tiles, is broken and worn in many parts, from his
ftcps ; for he was continually walking in it, or taking
fnuif, his chief araufements.
The principal crime laid to the charge of this unfortu-
nate Prince was impotency ; for this he loft his crown,
his wife, and his liberty. He reigned five years, was im-
prifoned fourteen ; eight of which he paffed in the ifiand
of Tercera, and the remainder here. He died in one
thoufand fix hundred and fixty-nine, in the forty-eighth
year of his age ; and in three months after died his wife,
who married his brother Peter the Second.
This palace, apparently, has been raifed by piece-meal,
for it is very irregular throughout; the architedure is
chiefly Arabian: the ornaments that accompany the win-
dows reprefent interlaced branches of trees deprived of
the leaves, and as though fome of the fhoots v/ere lopped
off. I have given a reprefentation of one of them in the
introdudion to my defcription of the monafl:ery of Batalha.
Over the kitchen are raifed two lofty cones for chimnies,
which refemble the fhafts of our glafshoufes : the apart-
ments are numerous; but the communication from the one
to the other is not very convenient. The principal orna-
ments about it are fountains, which are conftantly fup-
plied frpm the mountains with excellent water : there are
no
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 247
hisheft water to be found in this mountain ; and the
fame depth below the furface of the earth is fufficient,
generally, to afcertain water in plains : of courfe, the fame
caufe by which water is impelled to afcend in the latter,
will apply to the former. We may alfo add, that in moun-
tains the interfpaces of the rocks may be confidered as fo
many tubes through which water afcends, as in the fhafts
of wells, owing to its volatile and porous nature ; for it is
computed to have forty times more fpace in it than matter :
we find a fimilar effect produced by a cloth partly im-
merfed, and partly hanging over the fide of a vefTel with
water, M'hich it draws out as effectually as a fiphon.
At the foot of the above mountain, contiguous to the
villaore of Cintra, is a palace, wherein the Royal family
ufed formerly to re{ide during the Summer feafon, on ac-
count of the amenity of the place, and the falubrity of the
air; for though it is but fixteen miles diftant from Lifbon,
yet I was allured by a Gentleman, who occafionally re-
fided here for many years, and kept a regifter of the
weather, that he found it, on an average, eight degrees
colder in the month of July than the capital.
Notwitliftandhig this and many other advantages which
Cintra pofTefTes over any other part of Portugal, it is but
little refortcd to by the natives. The palace is entirely de-
ferted, and has not, I believe, been much frequented fince
the death of Alfonfo VI. who ended his miferable life in
it
Lo»nf Satlp.
l.onjon PiitUfhii Jl.zt/ 1- i^ifi . i>u CaJiU k D.iriej: Strand
246 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
lediment, which, according to . Vitruvius, are the fureft
figns of the lah-ibrity of water.
There is a tradition among the common people, that
treafures are hidden beneath the above ruins; and that
under this bath are interred a Morifque King, with his
treafures, in a tomb of brafs, guarded by evil fpirits. And
not only the common people, but alfo thofe who, from
their lituation in life, ought to know better, give credit
to thefe ridiculous tales.
The village of Cintra, and the different villas at the
foot ot the mountain, are fupplied with water from its
fummit, by means of little conduits formed aloncr its
fides. How this water is collected on the mountain, has
given rife to various conjedures : fome imagine it to pro-
ceed from the diftillations of the clouds, which, as we
obferved before, envelope it morning and evenino- ; but it
is evident that an hour of meridian fun, in Summer, will
exhale more vapours in this country, than is imbibed by
the higheft mountain in the courfe of a night. Others
conjedure that the latent moifture is drawn upwards by
fome magnetic properties of the mountain, in the nature
of a^iphon; but, firidly fpeaking, there is no water to be
found here on the very fummit. The convent, vv^hich is
feated on the mountain, is fupplied by a well, which I
compute to be fixty or feventy feet deep ; now this is the
higheft
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 245
On the Weftern fide of the mountain are feen the re-
mains of fome ancient walls, which are built partly on the
rocks, and partly conftru6led over the cavities. Subter-
ranean paffages and fragments of ancient tombs are faid
to have been found here ; but hitherto no account of
them, nor of the other veftiges, have been given to the
public. Whether they are Roman or Moorifque I could
not learn ; but moft probably they appertain to the latter,
or at leaft parts of them, as there are the remains of an
ancient building, fuppofed to have been a mofque ftill ex-
tant. A fmall apartment to the rear of it is vaulted and
ornamented with ftars painted on an azure ground ; and
the walls ftill retain fome veftiges of Arabic charadlers.
The fineft piece of antiquity about the place is a qua-
drangular monument, fuppofed to have been a Moor-
ifque bath ; it is fifty feet long by feventeen broad. An-
nexed is an interior view of it ; Plate XII. The walls
are built of hewn ftone, with three pilafters at each fide,
which are continued in arches, as bands to the vault, with
which it is covered.
The water of this bath is four feet deep ; and what is
very remarkable, it neither increafes or diminifhes. Win-
ter or Summer, though it has no apparent fource ; and
notwithftanding it is never cleaned, yet it is always tranf-
parent, and the fides and bottom are free from weeds or
fediment,
2+4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
achieved on mountains; they are the fitteft theatres, on
many accounts, for performing great exploits.
Indeed it is almoft impoflible for an inhabitant of this
place not to acft and think different from thofe who dwell
in a valley. The founds and profpefts peculiar to it are
very favourable to reflexion, particularly of a ftormy day,
when the murmurs of furges, and the howling of tem-
pefts, fill the mind with a fympathetic fadnefsT Where-
ever we turn our eyes, the mind is ftruck with the awful
works of Nature : on one fide is the diftant ocean, whofe
evanid furface blends with the blue horizon ; beneath,
the deep valley ftrikes one with the appearance of an
auguft cavern : the fliattered flate of the impending rocks
on the declivity of the mountain, torn as it were afunder,
and every where burfting from the foil, threaten at the
leaft fliock to tumble down and deftroy the village.
About thirty years ago a foreign gentleman difcovered
a mine of loadjftone in this mountain. What fiiggefted
the idea of it, were the herbs that grew immediately over
it, which were of a pale colour, and more feeble than the
adjacent plants of the fame fpecies. Having dug about
fix feet deep, he found a fine vein ; but as the mountain
is a mafs of disjointed rocks and clay, he could not pro-
ceed farther, without propping as he excavated. Govern-
ment, therefore, apprehending the produce would not de-
fray the expence, ordered it to be fhut up.
I On
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 243
parent as glafs. Hence it was called PhejigiteSi from the
Greek word Phejigos ; that is to fay, brightnefs.
" I have met fome who hold Pliny's relation of this
temple as fabulous ; but indeed there is nothing iri it
incredible ; for daily experience evinces the truth of as
improbable matters. In the church of Saint Mmias, at
Florence, there are windows of alabafter, inftead of glafs ;
a table of which fills each aperture, though fifteen feet
high, and yet the church is fufficiently luminous. .Were
the alabafter column (landing in the Vatican library cut
into tables, it would be almoft as tranfparent as glafs."
To return to the monaftery. Here is an hofpitium for
the accommodation of pilgrims who vifit this church to
perform nevenaries ; that is to fay, nine days devotion ;
and alfo for thofe who come to celebrate vigils.
The number of Friars who formerly inhabited the mo-
naftery amounted to thirty ; at prefent they are reduced
to four. Were I one of the Order, I fhould wiOi to pafs
my days among them ; for I never faw a more charming
fituation for meditation, more fequeftered from the con-
cerns of life, or better adapted lor difpofing the mind to
the contemplation of another life.
Hence I do not wonder at the relations handed down to
us from paft ages, of fo many mighty things having been
112 achieved
■242 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
From the village of Cintra, which is fituated at the
foot of this mountain, on the Weftern fide, I fpent two
liours in climbing up to the monaftery. It was founded
by King Emanuel at the beginning of the fixteenth cen-
tury. The architedlure is of a fpecies of Gothic, not
purely Norman nor Arabian, but a compound of both t
the whole is built of a greyifli ftone of the granite kind,
and the vaults of the church, chaptcr-houfe, and facrifty,
are conftruded of the fame materials, and formed into
divers compartments by ribs and crofs fpringers ; the chap-
ter-houfc, particularly, exhibits a fine fpecimen of this
kind of vaulting^.
■•.♦
In the church is a cunous/acran'um of alabafter, faid ta
be the work of an Italian. Whoever was the artift, he
appears to have poffcffed but flender abilities as a fculptor.
One of the Friars placed a lighted candle in the infide of
it, and clofed the aperture ; yet, from the tranfparency of
tlie ftone, it emitted light fufficient to read by.
Probably it was of this kind of ftone that the Temple
of Fortuna Seta was conftrudted, of which Montfaucon.
fpeaks in his Diarhim Jtalicum.
*' Pliny informs us, that Nero built the Temple of
Fortuna Seia, on the fpot firft dedicated to her by Servius
Tidlius^ of a fort of ftone found in Cappadocia, as tranf-
13 parent
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 241
Cintra.
The name of a mountainous country, about twenty
miles Weft of Liibon. That part of it which is called
the Rock of Cintra is well known to all navigators, from
its being fituated at the Weftern extremity of Europe. In
the writings of the ancient geographers, it is called the
Promontory of the Moon ; by others, Olijtponefe ; probably
on account of its vicinage to Li{bon ; but according to
Strabo, it was formerly named Hierna.
Nature apparently threw up the mountain of Cintra as
a formidable barrier to ftay the waves of the Atlantic
Ocean, and to mark the Weftern termination of her works
. in the European world. The height of the loftieft part
of it above the level of the fea is computed at upwards of
three thoufand feet. Every morning its fummit is enve-
loped in clouds, and in the evening, long after night has
obfcured the vallies, it retains fome glimmering of day-
light.
On its apex there is a monaftery of the Order of Saint
yeronimOy whofe Weftern front ftrikes every fpedator with
awe, as it appears hanging over an affemblage of lofty
fhattered rocks.
I I From
240 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
implore thee to accede to my fupplications. Peace be
with thee !
" Know, O interpreter of this letter ! that the Xeque
Wagerage warns thee to read this narrative to the King in
a proper and becoming manner, without adding or di-
minifhing ought; fo that it may appear to all, that the
Sovereign was delighted with its contents. He will pay
thee thy cuftomary fees ; be careful, therefore, in doing
juftice to it, and God will reward thee. Twenty-eighth
of Zulcade nine hundred and twenty-one of the Hegira ;
which correfponds to the thirtieth of September one thou-
fand five hundred and fifteen."
Note by De Souza,
The Xeque Wagerage was Lord of Melinda when
Vafco da Gama concluded a treaty of alliance with him,
in the year fifteen hundred ; in confequence of which,
that Prince fent an Ambaffador with Vafco da Gama to
Portugal, with a rich prefent to King Emanuel. This
Ambaffador returned to Melinda in the fhip of Pedralves
Cabral, and brought with him a letter and a prefent from
K-ing Emanuel to his friend the Xeque.
Vide Chron, part i. 42. et feq.
iJintra^
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 239
*' Thy fervant, the Xeque Wagerage, implores thee to
look with an eye of compafTion and clemerxy on the in-
habitants of Melinda, and if they be found worthy of fo
great a favour, it will raife them in tlie eftimation of fur^
rounding nations, and entitle them to their praife, re-
fped:, and protedion ; and as the Xeque of Melinda
never yet viiited Mofambique, he expeds that thou wilt
condefcend that he fhould go thither ; and if any perfon,
whether Portuguefe or Muffelman, jfhould prefume to dic-
tate to him, or refift his authority, he fliall reply, that
fuch is King Emanuel's pleafure, which is the manner
he now commands and determines all matters in Melinda ;
becaufe the authority of Monarchs is unlimited: he alfo
defires, when the Xeque of Melinda is at Mofambique,
that orders will be given to the Portuguefe not to offend
him, but confider him as the organ of the King, and in-
vefted with his power. He will take cognizance of thofc
who have always co-operated to exalt thy name, intereft,
and reputation ; of this teftimony fhall be given by thy
fervants Simon de Andrade, Francifco Pereira, Fernando
de Freitas, Gafpar de Paiva, Antonio da Cofta, and all
the reft of the Chriftians, as well as MufTelmen of Mo-
zambique.
" In fine, be aflured, O King! that myfelf, my
fons, and my property, are devoted to thy fervice, and
fhall continue fo to the laft day of my life ; therefore I
implore
238 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
" In ancient days, be it known to thee, O King, there
lived a generous man, named Halem, who was the very
eflence of liberality, and had riches adequate to his mu-
nificence ; in all his life he was never known to refufe
any requeft : it is related that a man who wanted to try
the extent of his liberality, made a journey for that pur-
pofe to his houfe. Halem afked what brought him hither.
I came, faid he, to demand thy head. What claim haft
thou to my head, replied Halem ? Liften to me, quoth
he ; there lives a King in my neighbourhood, ^vho gave
me a thoufmd pieces of gold to permit him to wear his
head. Halem immediately retired to his chamber, brought
out a thoufand pieces, and fays to the man, as he extended
his neck. Here, friend, take your choice, my head or the
money; the man accepted the latter, and went away.
*' Thy fervant now, O King ! repeats a fimilar experi-
ment ; as thou art the moft liberal Sovereign among the
Kings of the earth, I figure to myfelf thy mighty power
and refplendent qualities ; and my friends, who have
weighed thy grandeur with all others, agree that Alex-
ander and Caefar were even as duft in the balance compared
to thee, becaufe all the treafure of the globe is at thy dif-
pofai ; thy generofity, therefore, however great, can never
leffen thy wealth ; remember then, O King ! that, of all
others, I am * the moft deferving of thy favours.
* He fpeaks of himfeif promifcuoufly in the third and firlt perfons Angular.
" Thy
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 237
is King Emanuel ; the great God perpetuate his reign, and
preferve him from the envy and artifice of his enemies.
Amen.
" This is to give thee to underftand, moft dear and
nncere friend, that the writer is in good health, and
anxious to know the ftate of thine, and of all that be-
long to thee. May the Lord preferve thee, and all that is
thine ! He would have come in perfon to thy noble pre-
fence ; but being occupied in rearing his fons, and pro-
viding them with fervants and flaves, who, together with
their father, is thy fervant and Have ; and never ceafes to
pray to God,, by day and night, to crown thee with ho-
nour, riches, and glory. His perfon and property have
been entirely devoted to thy fervice, from the firft time he-
has feen thy fubjedis to the prefent hour, as they can in-
form thee. He implores thy protedion and friendfhip,.
to the end that he may be honoured and efteemed by
thy people. He begs thy permiilion to fail in his own-
fliip once a year to Goa and Mofambique, to provide ne-
eeffaries for thy ufe..
" Having contemplated all that this world could hitherto^
boaft of, he never could difcover a monarch more power-
ful, nor an empire more happy than thine. It has pleafed^
God to fhower his bleffmgs in abundance on thee, and it
is to him alone thofe blellings muft be afcribed.
C(
ta
2^6 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL,
ornamented, his houfes lofty, his palaces admirable, his-
people juft, his clergy humble, his monks learned, his-
conflitution eftablilhed, his fubje<9:s enterprifing, his gates
defended, his heroes intrepid, his cavalry valiant ; one of
them ^vould fight a hundred warriors. To his city are
difpatched fleets deeply laden ; his prefence bows the head
and bends the knee ; he is the fountain of commerce in
every city and kingdom. The equity of his adminiftration;
enriches the poor, and fhortens the days of his enemies :
whoever feeks to find a blemifh in him, will feek in vain
for what the eye never faw, nor the ear ever heard ; he is
the fource of goodnefs and honours, the difpenfer of titles,
the flem of nobility, the centre of the univerfe, the pillar
of power, the munificent protedor of the virtuous and
meritorious, the King of regions, the crown of greatneis,
the diadem of liberality, whofe forces have fubdued Sinde,,
India, Perfia, Arabia, Egypt, Syria, Yeman, and all the
provinces of the univerfe. His voice brings the infolent
to fubjediion, and his afpeft humbles the proud ; an ex-
ample beyond emulation; his name is praifed amongfb
men, becaufe he raifes up the poor. When he fits on his
throne every eye is dazzled with his glory ; his cuftoms
are agreeable, his authority nerves the arm of the warrior,
his fame refounds from pole to pole, his prefence is more
beautiful than the full moon, his graces refrefh like the
dew of fpring, his determinations are as fixed as fate, his
name extends to every part of the earth, his beneficence
diftinguifhes him at all times and in all countries : fuch
II is
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 235
In the year one thoiifand feven hundred and ninety,
Father John de Souza, who we before mentioned (page 154
and 199) publillied a curious coliedtion of papers^ entitled
Dociwientos Arabicos, which he translated into Portuguefe,
by permillion of her Majefty, from the original Arabic
manufcripts, dcpolited in the royal archives of Lifbon.
They chiefly coniift of copies of letters that pafTed be-
tween the Kings of Portugal and the tributary Princes of
India in the fixteenth century. We fhall attempt to ren-
der one of them into Englifli from the Portuguefe verflon,
which is written in the true fpirit of the adulatory ftyle.
A Lette}' fro7n the King of Melinday to Ema?iuel King
of Portugal,
*' With the moft profound refpeft, exalted and honour-
able expreflions, praifes, falutations, and greetings from an
humble and faithful fervant, (who implores forgivenefs
from the majefty of God,) the Xeque Wagerage, to the
prefencc of the moft illuftrious, happy, efteemed, fincere,
praife-worthy, protefting, permanent, and invincible Mo-
narch Emanuel, to whom appertain every kindnefs, favour,
and honour. His name is celebrated by the people of
ev^ery region ; his beneficence is perpetual, and his fame
everlafting. Lord of the ennobled court, of the kingdom
of difcoveries, and of the palace of treafurcs. His fubjedls
are victorious, his caftles formidable, his garrifons forti-
fied, his batteries elevated, his walls decorated, his ftreets
H H 2 ornamented,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 257
Refrefhing rills that never fail,
When Phoebus fhoots his brightefl; beams j
Whilft balmy odours load each gale,
And nodding fruits furvcy the ftreams.
Here Zephyr courts each opening flower.
And birds that charm, of every fong ;
Here echo dwells in mazy bower.
And love that lifts the whole night long.
Penha Verde^
Formerly the refidence of Don John De Caftro, is now
inhabited by one of his defcendants. Here that great
man paficd the fhort intervals that peace permitted his
ab fence from the field or the ocean ; alternately employed
in ftudy and cultivating his gardens. To evince his indif-
ference for any emolument that might arife from thefe
plantations, he caufed them to be flripped of every fruit-
tree, and had fterile ones planted in their place.
Penha Verde, for its extent, is the beft fituated for diver-
fity and profpedl of any villa in the kingdom ; the country
on every fide prefents a wild aiTemblage of flriking fcenes •
mountains and vallles interfperfed with rocks, wood, and
water ; little temples and grottos are confirudled in divers
parts of the gardens: the former is furnifhed with altars,
%vhich Don John ufed often vifit to pray; a duty which
L L he
258 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
he ftridly obferved, whether in peace or war; for he juftly
conceived that piety is not incompatible with true courage.
To a man of his caft of mind, there cannot be a more ap-
propriate refidence : as the greater part of his life was fpent
among fcenes of the moft tumultuous nature, in Europe,
Afia, or Africa, the wilds of Cintra ferved but to fan that
fpirit of enterprife which animated him till the laft hour
of his life.
The anions of this celebrated chara£ler have been re-
corded by different writers, particularly Jacinto Freyre
de Andrade, who has publifhed an account of his life ;
and they all allow that he deferves to be clafled in the firft
rank of Chriftian heroes. A man who, by his precepts
and example, contributed fo much to the advancement of
public and private virtue, and left to pofterity the mofl
illuftrious inftances of courage, probity, and patriotifm, is
entitled to a more honourable niche than I can beftow
him among thefe trifling fragments. The fketch that I
am about to offer of his memoirs is colle(5led, partly from
thofe efteemed the befl Portuguefe writers, and partly
from the oral tradition of well-informed people.
Don
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 259
Don John de Cajlro.
Don John de Caftro was born at Lifbon in the year one
thoufand five hundred, of an illuftrious family. In his
youth he appears to have made great progrefs in mathema-
tics, under the celebrated Peter Nonnius, one of the ableft
profeffors of that faience of his time. Fired with the mili-
tary fame of his countrymen, he was determined to fhare
the laurels which they were then reaping at Tangiers, the
feat of martial achievements ; for this purpofe he departed
fecretly from his parents at the age of eighteen, and foon
after appeared at Africa in the front of battle. His va-
lour and prudence did not pafs unnoticed here, for he was
knighted in the field by Don Edward de Menezes, the
Governor of Tangiers.
After ferving nine years in this place, he returned to
his native country, where he was received by his Sove-
reign and fellow-citizens with every mark of diftindlion
to which his fervices juftly entitled him : confcious, how-
ever, that he had only done his duty, his mind was not
to be diverted by the applaule of the moment. He re-
tired to the folitary rocks of Cintra, not to repofe on his
laurels, but to promote the farther vvTlfare of his country,
by the application of an acftive and capacious mind to the
(Indies neceflary to conftitute a great commander.
L L 2 As
t6o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
As his health, which had been injured by wounds and
fatisue, began to mend, he was impatient to put the plans
he had deviled in the clofet into execution, which, in a
{hort time, he partly accompliihed in various engagements
by fea under his command.
The tranquillity of affairs in Africa now afforded
him an opportunity of difplaying his talents in another
quarter. He fet out for India as a volunteer, and accom-
panied E/revao?! de Ga?na in his expedition to the mouth
of the Red Sea. The King fent out ordeis to the Go-
vernor of Goa, to pay him a thoufand crufadcs annually
as long as he remained in that country : but Don John
refufed this bounty, thinking it more honourable to live
frugally on his own fcanty fortune, than be ranked among
the needy peniioners of the crown.
During the inter\'als of repofe in this expedition was
Don John employed in making charts, and taking obferva-
tions of the bays and coafls along the Straits of Suez.
He is faid to have made many judicious obfervations on
the Red Sea, and on the caufe of the overflow of the
Nile. Thel~e, together with other pieces written in the
courfe of his voyages, he dedicated to the early companion
of his fludies, Don Lew^is, brother to the King.
But there is one thing ftill more remarkable of him in
that expedition, though, perhaps, not generally known.
At
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 261
At his return he is faid to have brought to Portugal the
firft orar.ge-tree ever fcen in Europe, and from which ori-
ginated all that valuable fruitage we poffefs at this day.
The fervice he rendered mankind by this aft alone en-
titles him to the gratitude of pofterity ; and he himfelf
was not fo dazzled with the love of military fame, as
not to efteem this gift to his country as the greatefl of
all his adions.
And here it may be reafonably afked, why a perfon of
his diftinguifhed talents was not inverted with fome in^-
portant command in Ajfia ? But his biographer thus
refolvcs the queftion : In his davs, as at prefent, the
Sovereign's favour was but too often obtained through
the influence of favourites ; and as Don John was not of
an obftquious difprlition, and too proud to derive any
diftindion from the minions of a court, it is not matter
of furprife that he remained fo long negleded.
The time, however, arrived when the King, waving
all coniiderations of miniftcrial influence, refolved to
reward one faithful fervant, in Don John de CaftrOj
who had never afked him a favour, nor ever denied his
fervices in his country's caufe. His Majefty fent for him
fliortly after his arrival from India, and appointed him
Governor of all his territories in the Eaft. He accord-
ingly fet out with the general wiflies of the nation, to take
upon
262 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
upon him this important command, on the feventeenth
of March one thoufand five hundred and forty-five.
Having arrived at the feat of government, he found
innumerable difficulties to furmount ; an expenfive war
had exhaufted the treafury, and the troops were funk into
efFeminacy and difiipation. Don John, however, was not
to be intimidated by fuch difcouraging circumftances. He
immediately fet about reforming every department of the
ftate, civil and military, and in a fhort time reftored
ceconomy to the one, frugality and difcipline to the
other ; he himfelf was the firft to fet the example in
each, thereby enforcing his precepts by his pradlice.
But the moft difficult part of the talk was to reform
the foldiers from their depraved habits ; and in accom-
plilliing this, he might be faid to have cheated them
into difcipline ; for the only means he employed was emu-
lation, of all other means the moft congenial to the pride
of a foldier. For this purpofe he introduced every manly
exercife that could brace the finews and baniffi effemi-
nacy : military evolutions, feats of horfemanfhip, wreft-
ling, racing, throwing the bar, &c. indeed it may be faid
that he revived the emulation oi the Olympic games in the
plains of Goa. The moments of repofe were fparingly
counted to every foldier, and out of thefe they were
obliged to devote a certain time in fcouring and brighten-
ing
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 263
ing their armour, vvhich heretofore had been covered with
ruft. An army thus inured to every hardfhip, and the
fcorching rays of a vertical fun, were impatient to be led
into the field of battle ; their warlike appearance ftruck
the enemy wdth terror, and viftory in every conflidt de-
clared in their favour. What a ft range appearance a legion
of fuch brave fun-burnt fellows would make among the
modern Portuguefe, who eftimate men by their indo-
lence, by the fairnefs of their fkin, and the delicacy of
their fingers !
Of the feveral engagements in which our hero diftin-
guifhed himfelf, we fhall, for brevity's fake, notice but
the one which contributed moft to exalt his military re-
putation, and that was at the relief of Dio. The King
of Cambaya, with all the forces of his kingdom, laid fiege
to this fortrefs, affifted by a numerous army from the
Grand Sultan. During feveral months the gallant Don
John Mafcarenhas defended it with a handful of men
agalnft the enemy, who are faid to have been upwards of
fifty thoufand in number, and had fixty pieces of brafs
cannon. The command of this army was given by the
Sultan to Coge Sofar, the ableft general in his dominions.
Having drawn up his forces before the fortrefs of Dio, he
addreffed them to this effect :
<' Friends and companions, It is almoft unnecefTary for me
to mention how you ought to defpife that handful of Portu-
5 • g^e^e
264 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
guefe before you ; they are fcarcely five hundred in num-
ber, without poflibiliLy of receiving any reinforcement by
land, and the winter cuts off their profpe6ls of fuccour by
fea. Our inceffant attacks will conftantly employ them
on the walls, or in repairing the breaches of our cannons j
fatigue will overpower them, and they muft neceffarily
yield ; for they will not have one foldier in referve. Be-
hold, my friends, to what a fcene of glory I have brought
you, to humble the pride of the infolent Chrijiians^ the
fworn enemies of our Prophet, and to avenge the blood
of your relations and friends, whofe bones are interred
beneath the ground you fiand on. Hark ! methinks I hear
them groaning with their wounds, and calling on us to
purge the land of thefe impious barbarians, the murderers
of the great Badur."
When he had finifhed his fpcech, he fent a meflage
to the Governor of the fortrefs, threatening, if he did not
accept of the terms offered in it, to put every man in the
garrifon to the fword. Mafcarenhas returned for anfwer,
" That the Portuguefe were not accuftomed to receive
laws at the point of the bayonet, and that he would
agree to none different from thofe which already exifled
relative to the garrifon of Dio. If Coge Sofar did not
accept of thefe conditions, he muft accept of worfe, which
(hould be written with the blood of his Janizaries."
Don
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 265
Don John de Caftro, who at this time was at Goa, loft
not a moment in preparing for the relief of the befieged ;
he equipped nine fmall veffels for that expedition, in which
he told his foldiers none were to be admitted but his fa-
vourites. Then calling for his fon Ferdinand, who was but
a private foldier, he addrefled him in the prefence of the
troops, in the following manner :
" I fend you with this relief to Dio, which is now be-
fieged by an army of Turks ; and I charge you to do your
duty as a foldier, otherwife I fhall no longer acknowledge
you as a fon. Let no conlideration of family diftinclion
betray you into error ; for remember that all men by birth
are equal, and that you are not entitled to the leaft pre-
eminence over any of your companions, but in proportion
as you excel them in adts of valour and virtue. Let no
man, therefore, furpafs you in obedience to the commands
of your Captain, in zeal for your Sovereign, and love for
your country. Go then, in the name of God, and purchafe
honour for yourfelf, and either return to me vidlorious, or
not at all." — In this collateral manner was Don John wont
to animate his troops, and to curb the pride of the young
Nobility.
The fleet having arrived at Dio, the Governor received
a very friendly letter from Don John, wherein, among
other things, he mentioned how much he envied the glo-
rious poft he .filled, a poft much more honourable than
M M that
266 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
that of Governor of India. I fend you (faid he) with this
relief my fon Ferdinand, who, I trull, will be furpaffed
by none in affeftion to your perfon, and obedience to
your orders : if the boy fhould ever return to his native
country, with what exultation will he relate, among the
vanities of old age, the honour of having ferved as a foldier
under the brave Don John Mafceranhas.
As foon as the troops were landed, the Governor aflem-
bled his men in the parade, and addreffed them thus :
" Behold, my brethren, thefe Turks and Janizaries, who
vainly attempt to recover the honour they have loft in the
firft iiege againft this fortrefs ; but thefe are not more
confiderable than thofe who were vanquiflied, ncM- we lefs
than the vanquifliers. What! have thofe brave Portuguefe
who conquered them carried every fame into the grave,
and left us none to tranfmit to pofterity ? No, my bre-
thren, let us convince the world that we are not lefs brave
than they. We have not failed five thoufand leagues to
become flaves to infidels, and to tarnifh the renown of our
country. We want for nothing : our provifion and am-
munition will hold out until fuccour arrives ; and though
at this feafon the feas are difficult to encounter, yet have
we a Don John de Caftro, who, I pledge myfelf, will
make his way through the waves, with his fword in his
mouth, to come to our affiftance. If any thing could in-
fpire men with true courage, it is the glorious caufe in
which we are engaged ; the honour and intereft of our
King
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 267
King and country, our property, our lives, and what is
ftill more dear to us, our holy religion. Let every iinew
then be exerted againft that hord of barbarians that would
rob us of all thefe invaluable confiderations, and we can-
not fail to be vidlorious if we are unanimous ; for though
our number is but fmall, our power is great, for the God
of vidlories aflifts us."
By this and other well timed difcourfes, Don John
Mafceranhas fo animated his men, that he performed
prodigies of valour during the eight months that he
fuftained this defperate iiege. At length Don John de
Caftro arrived, and brought with him all the Portuguefe
forces he could colled in Afia. The troops of the garri-
fon now amounted to about four thoufand, including fea-
men and auxiliaries ; with thefe he refolved immediately
to terminate the fiege.
On the evening previous to his making the attack, he
diftributed his army into four columns, giving the com-
mand of one to Don John Mafceranhas, another to his
eldeft fon, Don Alvares de Caftro, a tried veteran ; Don
Manuel de Lima led the third, and the fourth he referved
for himfelf. Next morning, at break of day, he ordered
a public mafs to be celebrated in the midft of the parade,
at which he himfelf, and the greateft part of the garrifon,
received the facrament. This folemn fervice being over, he
addreffed the men in an animated fpeech : and to convince
M M 2 them
iSB TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
them that there was no alternative but death if they did
not conquer, he commanded the gates of the fortrefs to be
taken down and burnt. After this every man refumed
his poft : the fignal being given, they fallied out, fword
in hand, and completely routed the enemy. Five thou-
land Moors' are faid to have perifhed in this day's engage-
ment, together with Rama9aon their General, and feveral
other Moors of diflindion. Coge Sofar, the father of
Rama9aon, had been killed fome time before, as was alfo
Juxarcaon. Another General of the fame name was taken
prifoner, together with iix hundred men. Forty pieces of
cannon, and feveral ftands of colours, alfo fell into the
hands of the vidlors, befidcs a confiderable treafure found
by the foldiers in the town contiguous to the fortrefs
which was delivered up to plunder.
We fhould not forget to mention a circumllance, which,
in a great degree, contributed to forward the above victory.
During the engagement. Father Cafal, the chaplain of the
garrifon, carried a crucifix on the point of a fpear, with
which he appeared wherever the combat was moft obfti-
nate, animating the men. It happened that the column
under Alvares de Caflro was overpowered, and thrown into
diforder, and all his entreaty to rally them was in vain.
The Prieft, however, effefted what the General could not;
he ihewed them the crucifix which a weapon had ftruck
and thrown into a reclined pofture, exclaiming, at the
fame iim€,facn/ege, facn'Iege. Oh! foldiers of Chrifi^ re^
2 vengQ
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 269
venge the facrilege ! on which the fcattered foldiers, ani-
mated with an enthufiaftic rage, advanced to the charge,
and determined the battle.
In confequence of this important vidlory, the Portuguefe
poffeflions in India were fecured for the prefentj but Don
John, who never left aay thing to chance which he could
effect by lorefight, refolved to follow up the advantage
he had recently obtained without lofing a moment. In
the firft place, he fet about rebuilding, upon a new con-
flrudlion, the garrifon of Dio, as the old one had been
nearly demolifhed by the enemies cannon ; but this objedt
was not to- be accompliflied without money, and the trea-
fury was quite exhaufted ; as to himfelf, he had no-
thing belides his fword and helmet. Having in vain tried
feveral expedients to raife fupplies, he at length thought
of one, which may appear rather lingular at the prefent
day : he refolved to depofite the bones of his beloved fon,
Don Ferdinand, who had fallen in the fiege, for the fum
he required. Accordingly he ordered the grave to be
opened and the body raifed : he embraced it tenderly,
faying, whilft the tears gufhed from his eyes, my fon, thou
art dear to me even in death ; but my duty commands
me to ftifle the feelings of nature, when my country's
fafety is at ftake. As the corpfe fcafce exhibited any marks
of excarnation, his officers prevailed on him to permit it
to be re-interred ; and in lieu of it, he'fent a lock of his
own muftaches to the inhabitants of Goa, as a fecurity
for
27^
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
for the fum of twenty thoufand pardaos. They hnmedi-
ately advanced more than he required, as a free gift, and
returned the honourable pledge by a fpecial meflenger,
who was alfo charged with a letter highly exprefTive of
the deep fenfe they entertained of his patriotifm.
Some idea of this great man's character may be con-
ceived from thefe faint iketches : to enumerate all the
meritorious adls of his life, would exceed the limits we
prefcribe to this work ; we fliall therefore pafs them over,
and haften to a fcene that crowned his glorious career.
The account of his vidory having reached the King his
mafter, he appointed a day of folemn thankfgiving. The
Pope and feveral Princes congratulated him on the occa-
sion, and every one in the kingdom received the news
with demonftrations of joy except the Queen ; fhe too
had no objection to the vidory, but envied the honour of
the vidlor, becaufe he was received in triumph at his happy
return to Goa. This gave her Majefty fuch umbrage, that
{he obferved, Don John de Cajiro conquers like a Chriftian,
but triumphs like a Heathen.
In his letters to his Majefty he folicited leave to return
home, entreating, at the fame time, if he approved his
fervices, that he would grant him two acres of ground, or
rather rocks, which border on his little villa at Cintra.
The latter the King granted, but refufed the former;
afluring
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ayr
affuring him of the high eftimation in which he held his
fervices, and requefting him to continue his command
three years longer. Hitherto Don John had only the
title of Governor of India, but now the King falutes him,
Vice King and Friend, He lived, however, but a fhort
time to give luftre to thefe honours. He was attacked by
a violent ficknefs, and expired in a few days in the arms
of his confeffor, in the forty-eighth year of his age, and
third of his adminiftration in India.
A fhort time before his diflblution, he aflembled in his
chamber the Magiftrates of Goa, and the different Officers
of State, to whom he delivered up the government. Aftser
which he addrefled them in the following fpeech :.
** I am almoft alhamed to tell you. Gentlemen, that
the Viceroy of India, expiring with wounds and fatigues
on this bed of ficknefs, is in want of the neceflaries which
even a private foldier finds in an hofpital. You are fenfi-
ble, that as long as there was an enemy to fubdue, I have
not been fparing of toil or fatigue in every thing which
tend to the glory of our King and country ; and now,
that we have fubdued our foes, and eftabliihed an honour-
able peace with all the powers of the Eaft, a worn out
foldier, who has contributed fo often to your vidories, has
fome claim to your regard. It is probable, that in a
fhort time I fhall be no more ; and fhort as I am likely
to exift, I have not wherewithal to fupport or nourifh me ;
lo for
272 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
for I have laid out to the laft fhilling in relieving the wants
of my brother foldiers, and have left nothing to relieve my
own ; nay, not fo much as would buy a fowl for my dinner.
I requeft, therefore, that you will provide a perfon of
your own to provide a frugal maintenance for me out of
the King s revenue. I alfo requeft, that you will order
me a change of bed-linen, as I have not a fecond quilt to
my bed." Then railing himfelf up, with the alliftance of
his confelTor, the venerable Xavier, he laid his hand on
the Gofpel, and folemnly fwore on it to the truth of what
he had juft advanced ; and defired the Secretary of Goa to
take minutes of it, and enter it on the journals of the
Council of State,' in order that, if the fad was not found
as he had ftated, his memory and , his poller ity might
be branded with infamy. We fhall only obferve, that
time evinced the truth of every word he uttered in his
laft moments ; for all the money found in his cabinet
did not exceed a vi7itefn\ that is, lefs than three half-
pence.
A few days before he expired, he ordered that his body
fhould be interred in the Francifcan church at Goa, and
tranflated from thence by the firft opportunity to the
chapel belonging to his villa at Cintra. In all his adions
lie never loft fight of this charming retreat, wherein he
hoped one day to pafs the evening of life in ftudy and
meditation, as appears by the letter he wrote after the
iiege of Dio, to the Infante Don Luis, requefting he would
intercede
cc
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 273
intercede with the King for his recal. The Infante, in
his affedionate reply, ufes this expreffion : *' After your
" performance of the Royal will, I truft you will cover
the tops of the rocks of Cintra with chapels and tro-
phies of your vidories, and long enjoy them in pro-
" found repofe." His remains are now repoiited in the
Dominican convent at Bemfica near Li{bon, where his
grandfon ere6ted a monument to his memory, with the
following infcription :
D. JOANNES DE CASTRO
XX. PRO RELIGIONE IN UTRAQUE
MAURITANIA STIPENDIIS FACTIS :
NAVATA STRENUE OPERA THUNETANO
BELLO :
MARI RUBRO FELICIBUS ARMIS PENETRATO :
DEBELLATIS INTER EUPHRATEM ET INDUM
NATIONIBUS.
GEDROSICO REGE, PERSIS, TURCIS
UNOPRi^LIOFUSIS:
SERVATO DIO, IMO REIPUB. REDDITO :
DORMIT IN MAGNUM DIEM:
NON SIBI, SED DEO TRIUMPHATOR:
PUBLICIS LACRYMIS COMPOSITUS,
PUBLICO SUMPTU PR^ PAUPERTATE
FUNERATUS.
OBIT OCT. ID. JUN. ANNO M.D.XLVIII.
^TATIS XLVIII.
N N San/kreet
274 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Sanjkreet Infcription.
This infcrlptional ftone is one of the trophies Don John
de Caftro obtained in India : it is to be feen in hrs garden
at Cintra. His Excellency Chevalier de Soufa, the pre-
fent Envoy at the court of Sweden, informs me, that
*' it was brought, with other antiquities, from India by
"the Duke de Braganca, and delivered by him to the
" heir of Don John de Caftro." Lafiteavi mentions it from
Diogo de Couto.
In the fame garden is another infcriptional ftone, the
charafters of which are almoft entirely defaced by the
weather. The upper part of it exhibits the emblems of
the Sun and Moon ; and the reprefentation of a man
ftruggling with a rampant beaft is fculptured in bas relief
on the foot of it. There is alfo a decapitated centaur of
tolerable workmanfhip ftanding on a pedeftal near thefe
infcriptional ftones, which are all the Afiatic antiquities
that remain here at prefent.
Several travellers, who have vifited Portugal from time
to time, are faid to have copied fome of the characters of
this Sanfkreet Infcription, or taken impreilions of a few
of them on plafter of Paris or wax. And the late Reve-
rend Mr. Allen, formerly Chaplain to the Britifh faftory
at Lifbon, copied the two extreme lines and middle one.
13 This,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 275
This, I am informed, was the greatcfl progrefs made in
tranfcribing it fmce it arrived in Portugal, (which appears.
to be about the year one thoiifand five hundred and fixty-
fix,) until I made the copy hereunto amiexed, in one
thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. Vide Plate XIII.
To the antiquary, a jfhort account of the manner in
which it has been copied may not be unacceptable ; the
procefs was very fimple. In the firfl: place, I prepared as
many ftrips of paper as there are lines in the whole ; to wit,
lixty-fix ; on each of which were drawn two parallel lines,
leaving a fpace between, equal to the height of the letters.
Thefe ftrips being placed, one after the other, immedi-
ately under the lines, and faftcned with wax at each end ;
the letters then were drawn on them with a black lead
pencil, exad:ly under the correfponding ones of the pro-
totype. There are many other ways, I am aware, of
copying infcriptions of this kind, fome of which are very
expeditious ; but the neceftary apparatus for that purpofe
I had not at hand ; and I doubt, on the whole, if there
be any procefs lefs fubjed: to error than the above.
The charadiers are all funk, beautifully cut, and in ex-
cellent prefervation ; each is two-fifths of an inch in
height ; the fpace between each line is one-fourth of an
inch. In the copy fubjoined are preferved the proportions
of the original, both in the detail and general diftribution.
N N 2 The
276 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
The defedls obferved in the ftone are not, for the moft
part, owing to the natural decays of time, but to accidents
it received, perhaps, in the carriage ; for it is very hard,
being of the bafaltes fpecies, and of a blackifh hue. Some
imagine that the face of it was formerly gilt, and I have
noticed in one or two places fome traces that appeared to
juftify the conjecture.
Hitherto the language in which it is written has been
confidered as Hindoo, and the meaning remained an enig-
ma, though fome attempts to afcertain it. has been made by
the three lines before mentioned, that were copied bv the
Reverend Mr. Allen. Some account of thefe is faid to have
been publifhed by a ProfeiTor of Oriental languages in
Germany. The information, however, I have received
on this head is too imperfed: to lay before the public. I
fhall therefore take no further notice of it, fince it is ma-
nifeft that very little or nothing to the purpofe could pof-
libly be deduced from fo fmall and disjointed a portion of
the whole. I am happy, at length, to be enabled to lay
before the public the purport of this curious infcription,
which has eluded the refearches, not only of the Portu-
guefe, but of all the literati of Europe for upwards of
two hundred years paft. And for this I am indebted to
the pen of the learned and ingenious Mr. Wilkins, whofe
extenfive knowledge of Oriental literature is a lafting ho-
nour to his country. I fhould not omit this opportunity
4 of
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 277
of acknowledging my obligations to him for the polite
manner in which he undertook this troublefome tafk ;
induced by no other motive than that of gratifying public
curiojQty.
Of the difficulty of making a complete tranflation, the
dilapidations reprefented in the copy are not the only im-
pediments. Some miitakes, perhaps, might have occurred
on my part in tranfcribing it, that renders the interpreta-
tion ot the remainder not very eafy. Mr. Wilkins has
judicioufly pointed out the probability of fuch miftakes ;
as may be inferred from his letter; of which we prefent
a copy.
S I R,. Hawkhurft, Kent, July 20Ch, 1793.
I have beftowed no little labour to decipher the infcrip-
tion ; and how much of it has been in vain, you may
judge from a perufal of the few fheets of memorandums
which accompany this ; and which, though fufficient to
determine the queftion concerning the intention of it,
will not be fo acceptable as a complete tranflation ; to
which there were many infuperable obftrudlions, befides
thofe which are obvious : fome of which I will take the
liberty to mention. The characters JTy.^m^cr. o^a-v^.
fj~ir;^^u are perpetually in the place of one another, as
are alfc ^q/".^^/, ^ ^^ ; ^^. ^^- ^ ,^ ^^^^ ;
"^i/^f^/i^ &c. This cannot but occalion very great
confufion. I find alfo the fingle. dot ° and the double
ditto;
zy8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
ditto o very often omitted ; both of which are of great
importance in Sanjkreet.
To the memorandums I have annexed my rough Notes
refpedling the meafure of each verfe.
The proper name for the Infcription is Safa?ta, which
figniiies an Ordinance. It is the term given to it in the
inflrument itfelf.
I remain,
SIR,
Your moft obedient humble Servant,
C. WILKINS.
To yavies Murphy^ Efq. London.
Memorandums
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
279
Memorandums of a?i Inscription in the Sanjkreet lan-
guage and Deva-Nagaree CharaEler. Tranflated by
Charles Wiikins, Efq.
Reverence to the God Seeva.
Verfe i. The meaning very obfcure.
2. Very enigmatical. — A certain Prince difpenfes blefTings day
and night.
3. Eulogy of the perfon whofe name appears in the next verfe.
States, that he enjoyed riches and happinefe through the
blcfling of the God Sceva^ who is here called Kapardce ;
that his good fortune was pleafing to the God with the
fingle tufk, the good of the three regions of the world,
the offspring of the enemy of the incorporeal divinity by
whom he was conduced. (Ga/ie/a, the God of Prudence
and Policy, the fon of Sceva, (Time,) the enemy of the
God of Love.)
4. Part of this verfe unintelligible. — ^A perfon of the name of
Vee/wa Malla is reprefented as the jewel of the diadem of
Kings, and as a vidtorious King, giving luftre to the race
of Oolookya. His adminiftration flowed in a hundred
endlefs ftreams from the prime ellence of the refervoir of
felf-reftraint.
5. Part illegible. Still relates to Vccfwa Malla^ and fomething
about pulling up the root of the tree of plenty, not by
the thunderbolt, but by means of a certain perfon of the
houfehold of the military order, whole name was Raja-
nar'iyaua.
6. The Lord Vedya Natha, who adorns the w^hole earth, and
whofe mightinefs fhews compafiion tor the p?jns and
troubles with which flae is furrounded, placed in him a
- portion of his own fpirit. Second hemiftic unintel-
ligible.
Verfe
28o TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Verfe 7. He had a wife, whofe title was Nagalla Devee, with a form
like the Goddefs Sree, by whom the Raja had children,
who were the confufion of his enemies.
8. The meaning of this verfe rather obfcure. Bhooja Pratapa^
the younger brother of Pratapa-Malla^ got poflefTion of
the government by force.
9. In the firfl hemiftic Veefwa Malla places the fon of Pratapa
Malla in his ftead. — The fecond part of this verfe is im-
perfedl. — Contains fomething about Veefwa Malla s par-
taking of holy food, with the immortal water which bears
the name of his wife.
10. A very obfcure verfe, and, in fome places, imperfedl.
Arjoona^ who is defcribed a youth of extraordinary abi-
lities, is called Arjoo7ia Deva.
11. In his hand he bore the mark of a wheel, and was a pro-
tedor of his people. A difficult verfe.
12. His offspring, Saranga Deva^ defeats the chiefs of Goojara^
who are reprefented as overcome with the pride of
wealth.
13. He is defcribed as having been victorious in a battle be-
tween the Yadava and Malava chiefs, and is compared to
the eagle of Veejhnoo (which, in the fable of the elephant
and tortoife flruggling for fuperiority, came down and
carried them both away).
14. His fon Nakoolee, like a divinity, comes from above to fhew
favour to the human race :
1 5. And to fhew favour to the race of Oolookya^ who, for a long
time, had lain under a father's curfe.
16. Pour infpired perfons, whofe names were Koofeeka^ ^^^^'SSJ^^y
Karoojlia, and Matreya^ defcend upon the earth, for the
purpofe of performing certain ceremonies called Pafoo-
pata-vrata^ and that they were his attendants,
jjy. The meaning rather obfcure. — Being rendered humble by
fome holy man, he was an ornament to the world which
as watered by four feas. — Some fyllables wanting in the
firft foot.
Verfe
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•
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 281
Verfe iS. This verfe is alfo defe<3:ive and obfcure. — From a certain
family, ftated to have been favoured by thofe four holy
men, proceeded the race of Garggeya, a generation of
boundlefs minds.
19. The firft hemiftic ftates, that a perfon of the name of
Karteeka-rafee was the deliverer of the family of Garggeya^
and chief of the place. The fecond hemiftic is imper-
fect.
20. Lnperfed and very unintelligible. Valmecherafce feems to
be here mentioned as the fucceflbr of Kartecka-rcifce.
21. The Prince is herein likened to the God Treepoormtaka,
and certain great men to other immortals; and it is ftated
that this is recorded upon a ftone.
22. Treepoorantaka is reprefented as the d'lfciple^ or (rather per-
haps) the fucceflbr of Vcihneekcercifec. — The gi'eateft part
of this verfe is very obfcure.
23. Unintelligible. «
24. Defedive. — Relates to the performance of a pilgrimage.
25. Ditto. ditto ditto
26. Ditto. ditto ditto
27. Ditto. ditto ditto
28. Ditto. ditto ditto
29. Ditto. ditto ditto
?o. He meditates on the goodnefs of the God Rama, and vlfits
Lanka, and the dike or bridge fuppofcd to have been
conftruded during the wars of Rama and Ravafia, be-
tween the ifland of Ceylon and the continent.
31. Very intricate. — Vifits fome other holy place.
32. Viiits the river Sarafwatee and Frayaga.
■^■T^. Vifits the city of the God who bears a crefcent, which he
adorns. (Banaris.)
34. The illuftrious Ganda Vreehafpatce, having defigned it by
means of a Brahman, built a magnificent place :
2^. Judging, that through the means of the purity of his adions,
he fhould achieve the greateft degree of renown, he here
rejoiced. Rather obfcure.
o o Verfe
282 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Vcrfe ;^6. Very imperfedl and obfcure. It ftates, that the illuftrious
Treepoorantaka is alfo the refledion of the jewel of the
diadem of the race of heaven, &c. &c.
3". Obfcure. — He beflowed fplendid gifts upon feme diftreffed
perfon.
38. Very intricate. — States that Rama, which means either \\\%
wife or his fortune, was the ornament of the world.
39. Very enigmatical. From whofe fplendid virtues the great
men, who delight to fport in the atoms which float in
the beams of light ilTuing f^om the beauty of the leaf of
the fleepy Ketakec of the diadem of the Goddefs Saraf-
nvatee, went to adorn the females of the eight points.
40. By which wife man (meaning 'Treepoorantaka) were founded
five temples for burnt-offerings, called Ayatanns^ to the
North of the Ma?tdapa (Sarai) of the Ayatana of Some-
fwara^ near the old bell-houfe of Sree Bhajee^ and under
the prote£lion of the five glories of Sree Kanta.
41. The man to whom belongs the exceffive magnificence of
great minds, who for the happinefs of the mother Lady
of Malhana *, placed there the Lord of Malhana.
^2. The wife man, whofe aftions are thofe of the firft age,
who there conftrudted an Ayatana for the hufband of
Ooma, by name Gandavreehafpatee.
43. Who, being the renown of great men, for the happinefs of
Oonia the wife of Vreehafpatee, fet up the hufband of
Ooma.
44. Here the hufband of Rama, called the Lord Treepoorantaka
Ramefwara^ even by his own name, by the favourite
name of the proteftor of the beautiful Trecpoorajiteeka.
45. Who, being one whofe mind was fixed on him on whofe
diadem is a crelcent, placed in the. midfl of the five
Ayatanas, the Goddefs Sarafwatee, the God who con-
du£teth to the accomplifhment of our wiflies, (Ganefa,) and
(fome others whofe names are not eafily to be made out.)
* Perhaps the name of the place.
Verfc
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
283
All thefe verfes relate to a variety of duties to be per-
formed in the temples, to the offerings ordained to
be made, and to the digging of refervoirs for obla-
tions, &c. &c.
Verfe 46. Seems very incorre£t. Who conflruded a pillar without
the North gate of the place.
47. A perfon of the name of Jagannatha Kolanee appointed to
clean the Gods every day.
48.
49.
50-
51-
52.
S3-
54-
55-
56.
57-
58.
59-
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70. He gave an ^yatana for the ufe of the Chatoorjatakapata,
becaufe a gate had been broken, and had tumbled down.
71. He founded this holy place, and fet up this Scifana (ordi-
nance) with his own well-earned wealth.
72. He built the pleafant houfe of Sree in the midft of the
Ayativia, and fet up a table of his own divine genealogy,
for the glory of the illuflrious Ganda-ranaka-vrehafpatee^
and Saranga Bhoopatee.
002 Verfe
284 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Vcrfe 73. A long laboured verfe of four feet of fourteen fyllables
each, totally unintelligible.
74. Ditto ditto.
75. Ditto ditto.
76. Ditto ditto.
77. In the year of the Mra. of Sree Veekranm 1343, 5th of the
bright half of the Moon in the month of Magha *.
The great feaft of the folemnities of the Lcenga (Priapus)
in the aflembly.
Memorandum of the kinds of Verfe the Safana is compofed in.
Verfe i. A long verfe of four feet, called Arya.
a. Four feet of fourteen fyllables each, called Vafanta-teelakam^
in this form :
w
;o <o to Vj «o
4. J- Same meafure as
5-
6. Four feet of nineteen fyllables each, called Sardoolavee-
kreereeta, in this form : «o ^ Vi — •
y. Four feet of eleven fyllables each, in this form :
Co ;o ^ — i <o . It is called
Eendravajra.
8. Ditto ditto.
t). Ditto ditto, but incorred.
1 o. Same as fecond j — one fyllable wanting {^) In the lirft foot.
11. Ditto ditto,
12. Ditto ditto.
13. Is a curious fpecies of verfe, called Arya; to compofe
which, it is neceffary that the quantity of the firfl; and
third feet be equal to twelve fliort fyllables, the fecond
* December, A.D. 1286.
foot
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 285
foot equal to eighteen fhorts, and the fourth to fif-
teen.
14. Four feet of nineteen fyllables. — Seems very Incorred.
15. Four feet of twelve fyllables, called VawJIabeela-.
16. Same as thirteenth.
17. A fpccies of verfe of all others the mod common, called
Ouoojlotoopa \ four feet each of eight fyllables. The rule
for confl:ru(fling It is that the fifth fyllable In each foot
be fhort, the feventh fhort in the fecond and fouith feet,
and the fixth long in each foot.
18. Ditto.
19. iour feet of eleven fyllables each, the fame as fcventh.-
Imperfed:.
20. Same as fecond.
21. Ditto.
22. Same as feventh.
23. Same as fecond.
24. Uncertain. Many fyllables wanting.
25. Same as feventh. Greatefl: part of the fecond and third
feet wanting.
26. Ditto. Five fyllables wanting in third foot, and three
in the fourth.
27. A verfe of eleven fyllables, where the third, fixth, feventh,
and ninth fyllables are fl\ort. Seven fyllables deficient
in fourth foot.
28. A verfe of fourteen fyllables to the foot. Seven fyllables
wanting In the fourth foot.
29. A verfe of eleven fyllables. Four fyllables wanting In laft
foot.
30. Ditto, in this form : ^ — ^ ^ ^ — - ^ —
Verfe
286
Verfe
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
31-
A verfe of fourteen
fyllables, the fame as fecond.
32-
of
1 1 fyllables to the foot.
33-
of
12 ditto.
34-
of
8 ditto.
33-
of
1 1 ditto.
36.
of
19 ditto.
Same as 6th.
37-
of
[2 ditto.
Same as 15th,
38.
of
II ditto.
In this form : — «o — Vi Vi
^ — <o — . Called RathoMata.
<o
39-
of
12 ditto.
Same as 15th.
40.
of
14 ditto.
Same as 2d.
41.
of
8 ditto.
Seems incorrect.
42.
of
8 ditto.
43-
of
8 ditto.
44.
of
12 ditto.
Same as 15th.
45-
of
1 1 ditto.
Same as 38th.
46.
of
1 1 ditto.
ditto.
47-
of
8 ditto.
48.
of
8 ditto.
.
49.
Same as ift and 13th.
SO-
of
8 ditto.
51-
of
8 ditto.
52.
of
8 ditto.
53-
of
8 ditto.
54.
of
9 ditto.
Seems imperfed.
55-
of
8 ditto.
Imperfed.
56.
of
8 ditto.
ditto.
57-
of
8 ditto.
ditto.
58.
of
8 ditto.
ditto.
59-
of
8 ditto.
ditto.
60.
of
8 ditto.
ditto.
61.
of
8 ditto.
62.
of
8 ditto.
63.
of
8 ditto.
64.
of
8 ditto.
Verfe
TRAVELS INPORTUGAL. 2S7
Verfe 65. A verfe of 1 1 fyllables to the foot. Called Saleetiee.
66. of n ditto. Same as 7th.
67. of 8 ditto.
68. of 1 2 ditto. Called Eejidravatifa. In this form :
69. of 1 1 ditto. In this form :
<o «o Vj ^j
«o «o
, ;o vj
Vj Vi
of 8 fyllables.
of 14 ditto. Same as 2d.
of 14 ditto. ditto.
of 14 ditto. ditto.
of 14 ditto. ditto.
of 14 ditto. ditto.
Uncertain, being imperfect.
70.
71-
72.
73-
74-
75-
76.
Conclufion in Profe.
N. B. The verfes do not begin with the lines ; but their endings
may be known by the numbers.
Mafra.
The name of a magnificent edifice, confifting of a
church, royal palace, and monaftery, is fituated in a bleak
folitary country, about nineteen miles Weft of Lifbon,
was founded by John the Fifth, in one thoufand feven
hundred and feventeen.
From the nature and magnitude of this edifice, it may
be confidered as the Efcuriai of Portugal j which ftrudlure
5 the
.288 TRAVELS IN PORTU-GAL.
the Royal founder intended to emulate ; it occupies more
Ground ; and the treafurcs he lavifhed on it, if properly-
applied, would raife a pile' much fuperior to the Efcurial
in point of architedture ; but unfortunately the defigner of
it had neither a mind to conceive, or a hanti to execute,
a de{ign for a glebe-houfe, much lefs a baiilick and
Royal palace.
The name of this mechanic was Frederic Ludovici ; he
was a native of Germany, and a goldfraith by profeflion.
Having amaffed a confiderable fortune in executing the
gold and filver utenfils of the patriarchal church, he was
r-ppointed, under the fpecious title of Architect, to defign
and execute this fabric, through the intereft of one of his
Majefty's minifiers, with whom his money had greater
weight than his talents.
The plan of this edifice forms a quadrangle, meafuring
from Eaft to Weft feven hundred and fixty feet, and
from North to South fix hundred and feventy feet. In
the centre of the Weft front is a fort of an Ionic hexaftylc
portico, v/hich leads to the church ; at each fide is
a pavilion, one for the accommodation of the Royal
Familv, the other for the Patriarch and mitred canons.
At the rear of the building is a monaftery with three
hundred cells. It has alfo a college, inftituted in one
thoufand feven hundred and fcventy-two, by Jofeph the
Firft, Don Joaquim de Afllimp^oa, the profclfor of ma-
,8 thematics,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 289
thematics, very obligingly fliewed us the repolitory of
mathematical inftruments. The library is three hundred
and eighty-one palmos long, by forty-three broad, and
fuppofed to contain between forty and fifty thoufand
volumes.
In the dado of the high altar are two large tables of
black marble, fo highly poliflied, that John the Fifth
ufed them as looking-glafles before they were fent hither.
Among the ornaments of the edifice are fifty-eight ftatues
of Carrara marble ; fome of which are very well executed.
We may form fome idea of the magnitude of the whole by
the number of apartments it contains, which amount to eight
hundred and fixty-fix. The doors and windows amount
to five thoufand two hundred.
The entire of this vaft pile is vaulted and covered
over with flags, forming a platform, whereby we may
walk over the fummit of the edifice. Here I obferved fe-
veral large blocks of ftones that were fhivered by lightning.
Condudlors are ereded in the different parts wherein the
injuries happened, but no where elfe. The gardens, which
are at the rear, are very extenfive, and well-ftored with a
variety of exotics, which the founder imported at a great
expence from his poflefiions in Afia, Africa, or America.
For a more particular account of this firudure, we refer
the reader to Father John do Prado's dcfcription of it,
p p publifhed
290
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
publiflied at Lifbon in the year one thoufand feven hun-
dred and fifty-one.
Having been informed by his Grace the Bifhop of Beja,
that feveral veftiges of Roman antiquities had been lately
difcovered in his diocefe near the city of Beja, I refolved
to make a journey thither, and to vifit the city of Evora,
which is faid to have fome valuable ancient monuments.
On the ninth of Odober one thoufand feven hundred
and ninety, I fet out from Lifbon, and arrived in the even-
ing at Aide Galega, a fmall village on the Eaft fide of the
Tagus. Next day, about two o'clock, I reached
Setuval\
A city famous for its fait manufadlories. Its harbour is
faid to be the beft in Portugal, except that of L ilbon ; it is
even better fheltered than the latter, and lefs difficult of
approach, but not fo extenfive. The population of the
city is fuppofed to amount to ten thoufand.
Notwithftanding the trade of this place, and the con^
ftant intercourfe between it and lifbon, yet there is not
a perch of a road to be feen the whole way, which is
about fix leagues ; nor can any find their way in the
journey, except thofe who are in the conftant habit of
travelling there j every other perfon muft take a guide,
9 or.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
291
Or, what will anfwer the fame purpofe, one of the mules
which is trained to the route.
There is faid to be feveral valuable pictures, by Henry
Corneille Vroom, the celebrated Dutch marine-painter, at
a church in the vicinity of this city. This painter having
embarked at Holland, with an intent to go to Spain, was
caft away in a gale of wind on the coaft of Portuo, • I, where
his fhip was da{hed to pieces. Among the fragments of
the wreck that were caft afhore were found fome pitlures,
which were carried to a neighbouring convent. Shortly
. after, Vroom and a few of his diftreifed companions
were wafted on the rocks, and conducted to the fime con-
vent. The Friars, who greatly admired the pidures,
were rejoiced to fee the painter of them : they hofpitably
entei-tained him and his fellow-fuii'erers, furnillied them
with money and clothes, and fent them to Lifbon. In
gratitude for their humanity, Vroom returned to Setuval,
and painted feveral pidures for the Friars.
At Setuval I embarked in a paflage-boat, and failed
up the river Cadaon. On the banks of this river is ma-
nufadured all the fait exported from Setuval : when pre-
pared, it is piled up in heaps in the form of hay-ricks,
and covered with llraw or rufhes, to exclude the rain.
The quantity of it produced here, though very great, is
but trivial in comparifon to what it is capable of yielding.
The river Cadaon is fo extenfive, and well adapted for
p p 2 that
292 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
that trade, that one would fuppofe it competent to fup~
ply all Europe with Talt ; and it is allowed to be fuperior
in quality to any manufadured in Spain, Sardinia, or
France.
About ten o'clock at night we reached Alca9er do Sal,,
a fmall town about fix leagues from Setuval. Its principal
trade confifts in fait and fiOi, with which the inhabitants
fupply moft of the province of Alenteju. They have
alfo rufhes here of a particular kind, of which mats,,
chairs, &c. are made. The territory produces little
corn, and the wine it yields is wliitc, and of an inferior
quality.
This town in former times was reforted to, during the
Summer feafon, by the opulent Romans who inhabited
Beja, Evora, and other parts of Lufitania. They had their
villas and baths in it, and a temple dedicated to the god-
defs Salacia. Auguftus Cefar made it a free town. The
Moors had poffeflion of it from the year feven hundred
and thirteen, till one thoufand two hundred and feventeen;
when Alfonfo the Second finally banifhed them, after re-
ducing the town to a heap of ruins.
I lodged here at an inn belonging to a man who held
an office of fome importance under the chief magiftrate
of the town. He entertained me at fupper with the beft
fare his houfe could afford ; viz, beef, eggs, greens, a
bottle
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ^g;^
bottle of pretty good wine, and a profufion of fruit, pome-
granates, olives, grapes, and a mufk-melon. No hoft was
ever more defirous of pleafing a gueft whom he never faw be-
fore, nor ever expeded to fee again. He took off his fword
and fat by me during fupper, alternately taking fnuff and
humming ftanzas to the found of his guitar. Next morn-
ing, having hired a mule and a guide for me, he furnifhed
his bill ; the amount ot which, for fupper, wine, bed, &c.
was two teftoons (one fhilling and three halfpence). The
remainder of a crufado I diftributed among his children ;
and he was fo well pleafed to fee the little ones taken
notice of, that he declared, if ever you come this %vaj
again ^ Sir^ "tnyfelf a7id my houfe JJjall be at your fervice.
OBober 21. This morning we pafled througli a country
that exhibits fome of the moft beautiful fcenes that a
landfcape-painter could wifh to behold : fcenes whofe wild
grandeur would invite the pencil of a Salvator Rofa ; con-
fifting of lofty hills, rude cliffs, and deep valleys, finely
watered, and interfperfed with pine and oak trees : here
and there a cottage, with a {<tvf peafants and cattle,
enlivened the fcene ; and nothing was wanting that the
artift could wifh for to transfer to the canvas, except the
ftately ruins. It is extraordinary, that fuch tranfcendent
profpe6ls do not call forth the exertions of the Portuguefe
artifts to the ftudy of landfcape ; for there are no profeffors
of that branch of the fine arts in the kingdom, at leafl: I
eould not hear of, nor meet with one.
Towards
194 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Towards the evening we entered a flat country, with-
out culture, without inhabitants, an unprohtable wafte,
which, apparently, for ages, had not been pierced by the
plowfliare. In this tracklefs defert we loft our way : the
o-uide remained fome time in fufpenfe which courfe to take:
at length he begged of me to unlight, took the bridle off
the mule, and fcnt it before us : we followed the animal,
and thus regained our way. Shortly after, we accofted a
troop of carriers who were going to Beja ; my guide hav-
ing bartered with one of them, transferred me to his care
the remainder ot the journey, and he returned home.
At five o'clock we flopped to bait at a well ; here the
carriers drew up water for their mules with ropes and lea-
ther buckets they carried for that purpofe. Contiguous to
this we met a fwine herd at the foot of an oak : he had
juft threflied from its boughs a meal of acorns for the
briftly flock which furrounded him; a girl who accompa-
nied him was roafting part of the fame fruit for their own
rcpaft, whilft he played on a fmall lute.
In the courfe of the evening we met feveral herds of
this kind feeding on grafs and acorns: hence, ^-lubably,
arifes the excellence of the Portuguefe bacon, fo much
efteemed all over Europe. The flefli of hogs reared in
this manner, muft certainly be very different in flavour
from thofe fed in cities or fea-port towns.
During
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 2^5
During the laft fix leagues of this day's journey, I had
not feen a village, nor even a houfe. Here day and night
is equally folitary and filent : the country appeared to
have no claimants except thefe fwine herds, who roved
about it uncontrouled j and the ftillnefs of nature is fel-
dom interrupted but with the found of their horns. At
nine o'clock we defcried a liQ-ht on a neighbouring moun-
D Do
tain, which we approached, and there tarried till morning
in a lonely hoftiilery.
Shortly after our arrival came in two young Francifcan
Friars from Cadiz, who were going to Lifbon to pafs their
noviciate. They appeared very fatigued, as they travelled
on foot agreeably to the rules of their order; a mode of
travelling they called rid'mg the capuchi?js mule.
Of all the inns I have yet met with, this is the moft
wretched. There was nothing to be had in it but bread
and four wine, though all of us ftood much in need of
refrefhment : for my OAvn part, I had taken none fince
fix o'clock in the morning, a& the proviiions I had with
me were hardened, and rendered unfit for ufe, by the
fcorching rays of the fun. \¥hili1: we were contriving
how to alleviate our diftrefs, the keeper of the inn entered
with two large hares flung to a rufty fowling-piece, and
relieved our anxiety..
The hopes of being fumptuoufly regaled by this un-
expedled fupply gave new life to the wearied Friars, who
were
196 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
were perfuaded that Providence had Interpofed in their
behalf. Their felicity, however, was of fhort duration ;
the profpedt vaniflied, and left them amidft their misfor-
tune to refledl on the folly of anticipation. Here was
the caufe of our difappointment. The elder of the two
Friars approached the fire-place where the landlord's two
daughters were cooking the hares, which they minced and
put into an earthen vellel fupported by a tripod. Thefe
girls being young and handfome, had tempted the difciple
of St. Francis (who was full of youth and vigour like
Rabelais* Friar John) to make love to one of them, though
he pretended to be devoutly recounting his beads. In
fhort, between piety and beauty the tripod was overfet,
and the brittle vefTel containing the minced hares was
daflied to pieces on the hearth.
The only refource now left was to fleep away our
hunger like the Laplanders ; but unfortunately the fitu-
ation allotted to us for that purpofe was not the moft
eligible. We were fent to a fmall office without a door
at the rear of the houfe, on the floor of which was laid a
mattrefs for each of us to repofe on. My muleteer cau-
tioned me to be very watchful, as the place was infefl:ed
with wolves; adding, that he himfelf would accompany
me for fafety, but that he could not think of forfaking a
comfortable bed he had made up of his facks in the flable.
I flept, neverthelefs, very foundly in this doorlefs chamber,
with my fword drawn, till he called me to refume our
journey at four o'clock in the morning.
I OElober
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 29;
OSioher 2 2d. ThoL3gh I did not give much credit to
what the muleteer related laft night refpeding the wolves,
yet this morning I was fully convinced of the truth o^ it.
Shortly after we left the inn, we defcried one of thefe-
animals at the diftance of about three hundred yards ; it
ftood for a moment, but fled as foon as the muleteers began
to fhout and caft ftones at it. From its flze one (hould
fuppofe it not adequate to encounter a ftrong maftiff.
Beja.
At one o'clock in the evening we reached the city of
Beja, when I delivered the letters with which his Grace
the Bifhop honoured me at my departure from Lifbon ;
his fecretary informed me, that he had received orders to
accommodate me in the palace, and to give every ailiflance
in his power in facilitating the object of my journey.
This city is feated upon an eminence in the province of
Alenteju, about three and twenty leagues South-eall of
Lifbon. Julius Casfar honoured it with the title of Pax
Julia, and made it a Roman colony : the Moors had
poiTeflion of it from the year feven hundred and fifteen,
till one thoufand one hundred and fixty-two. Some re-
mains of the walls, towers, and fortifications of the latter
are ftill extant, but none of the monuments of the former.
The chief part of the prefent tov/n was built by Alfonfo
298 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
the Third. It contains one of the beft conftrudted caftles
in the kingdom, founded by King Diniz. Two leagues
from hence is the Guadiana, a celebrated river, which runs
feven leagues of its courfe under ground, from the village
of ArgamafiUa to the town of Daymiel. The ancient city
of Beja was built a fhort diftance to the Eafl of the prefent.
In digging there lately, fcveral antique fragments were dif-
covered. It muft be regretted that thefe refearches are not
profecuted ; the procefs would not be attended with much
difficulty or expence, as the pavement of the old city is
not more than fix and twenty feet beneath the furface of
the earth : a fpeculator in this undertaking would, pro-
bably, be amply compenfated for his trouble, if one may
judge from the experiment already made. In a cave not
exceeding thirty feet fquare by twenty deep, feveral frag-
ments have been found, which are depoiited among other
ancient remains in the Bifhop of Beja's Mufeum. The
articles in the three following Plates, viz. XIV. XV. and
XVI. are part of what I have copied from thence, except
M and N, in Plate XIV. the prototypes of which are ia
the city of Evora.
Reference to Plate XIV.
A and B. Monuments of marble.
C. A monument of folid ftone, w^hich appears by the
infcription to have been depofited to the memory of a
merchant (whofe name is defaced) by his wife.
S D. D. Repre-
Plate XTT.
Lou-n-SttUp.
FRAGMENTS OF KOMAN ANTIQUITIES FOUVB AT BE3A ScEVOMA
London Piit'b/lut Miuft^ij^o In I'a/tttlic Ditrifs — Strand
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 299
D. D. Reprefent one a fword, the other a dagger.
E. An Amphora.
F and G. Utenfils of the Etrufcan kind.
H. A vafe copied from a fculpture on an ancient ftone,
I. A Lachrymatory.
K. An ancient brick, fuch as were ufed in pavements.
L. An Ofluarium, or Sarcophagus, of an oval form. It
is three feet long by one foot wide; the depth is the fame
as the width. In this were found petrefcent bones of a
brown colour, each piece of which appears to be as heavy
as the fame quantity of Carara marble. Whether this
petrifying quality be inherent in the ftone of which the
Sarcophagus is formed, I could not learn ; but it is not
unreafonable to attribute it to that caufe: for Theophraftus
mentions, xkiiX. fo-me Jlones have the property of petrifying
or converting wholly into flone whatever is put into vejfels
made of them. I fhall add what Sir John Hill obferves
on this paffage of Theophraftus.
" The ftone Theophraftus next mentions, and of which
he has recorded the petrifying power, but not the name,
is the Lapis AJpus^ or Sarcophagus. The Affian^ or
flefh- con fuming ftone. The Sarcophagus^ Boet. 403.
Affius vel AJfius Lapis, Char It. 251. Sarcophagus, fve
AJftus Lapis, De Laet. 133. AJfius Lapis, S almas. i7i
Solin 847. Plin. book 36, chap. 17,
Q_ Q_ 2 *' This
loo
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL..
*' This was a ftone much known, and ufed among jhe
Greeks in their fepultures, and by them called axoKo (pxyocy
from its power of confuming the flefh buried in it ;.
which, it is faid, to have perfedlly efleded in forty days.
This property it was much famed for, and all the an-
cient naturalifts mention it i but the other, of turning
into ftonc things put into veffels made of it, has been re-
corded only by this author and MutianuSy from whom:
Pliny has copied it ; and from him fome few only of the
later naturalifts. The acuount Mutianus gives of it is^
that it converted into ftone the flioes of perfoas buried in.
it, as alfo the utenfils, which it was, in fome places,,
cuftomary to bury with the body ; particularly thofe the
perfons while living had moft delighted in. The utenfils-
he mentions are fuch as muft have been made of many
different materials ; whence it appears, that this ftone had a
power of confuming only flefti ; but that its petrifying quality
extended to fubftances of very different kinds. Whether
it really poffeffed this laft quality, or not, has been much
doubted, and many have been afraid, from its fuppofed
improbability, to record it. What has much difcouraged
a difbelief of it is Mutia72us\ account of its thus takingr
place on fubjedts of different kinds and textures : but this,
in my opinion, is no objeilion at all, and the whole ac-
count, very probably, true. — The place where this ftone
was dug was near yljfos^ a city in Lycia, from whence it
had its name ; and Bocthius informs us, that in that coun-
13 try,
Plate XV
D
|tio .^iPiW
I I^S "ij)EI'
[ARTIAS. ER.
I A" 33.
B
ZFT-
I r DXIACTIA
I POSTIT,
?T^
BI^^Q.:^: PHILIFPl'"
rttdf^htd Ma^ i-^^gS.by Ctuii'ii >uui Diivies in the Sen:!.
Plate XVI
M.i,.i'i.LiA. cm,
'PlTA._c\XXXSXX[.I'ff-
Q.L,,y.MAR!lTE.Ef.
Mfffi.
/
,^1
'5 .. Vi
M-^Ti^LI&iii:;;
.i,„;!ii«H^
,-liillllBrllillllSl|li«ll|ll!!ll|l«lk|!lWhlSr,!,!iill«iciliOlli«i;iilJ|
#»to^s .
1 ^IVMIA- \
I.IBERTO.,^Jl1
RETTTI.PO
H.S.E.S.T.TX.
i
iiiiiii^^
I.,.YELlO,x\>^iEL
o
yiAFCPH.FE. ¥io(i;;;ii!
Sii
Q, iKiJiOAio.M.vrt':uvf) J
PtU>li:th€dMaif i^'i-jqct. Ini Cadfll and Dnyks in fin Sound
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 301
fry, and in fome parts of the Eaft, there were alfo ftones
of this kind, vvhich, if tied to the bodies of living perfons,
would, in the fame manner, confume their flefh."
Sir John HilFs TranJIatio?i of 'Theophj'ajlus
Hijlory of Stones ,^ page 23. et feq. /;; note.
Plate XV. A. Is- another monument of the fame kind
before-mentioned, C. Plate XIV.
B and C. Roman infcriptional ftones.
D. An ancient infcriptional flone of the Chriftian aera.
The epitaph which it bears is written in all the fimplicity
of the apoflolic ages. Here lies Paul^ the fervant of God,
who lived 51 years. He refled in peace on the third day
of the ides of March, Era 582.
Plate XVI. The five infcriptional ftones reprefented in
rhis Plate are alfo in the Bifhop of Beja's colledion, except
the one marked D, which is in the wall of the praqa of
the city of Beja. Several other Roman fragments have
been fonnd in the excavation above mentioned, among
which was a mutilated ftatue feated on a throne, fuppofed
to. have reprefented the Goddefs Sybilla. The body of it
is entire, but wants the head and armiS ; what remains of
it, nevertbelefs, is very valuable, as the proportions of the
members, the form of the drapery, and the delicacy of the
fculptur^, clearly evince that it was executed when the
arts were at their zenith. Near this ftatue were found,
in
302 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
in the fame cave, a hand holding a patera, and a buft,
which is faid to reprcfent Auguftus Ca^far.
Having taken fketches of the moft remarkable objects
in this city and its environs, I fet out with a guide and a
mule for Evora, a city about twelve leagues diftant from
the former. As we could find no proper accommodation
on the road, I refolved to reach Evora that night ; there-
fore I gave the mule to the guide, who was an old man,
and walked after him the greater part of the journey. At
eleven o'clock at nio-ht wc reached
Evora.
This city is fituated in the middle of the province
Alenteju, upon an eminence ; fur rounded by a fine level
country, which produces corn, wine, and oil. It is
called in Latin Ebora, Some writers think that Pto-
lemy alludes to it when he writes Ebura^ the name of a
city in the province of Andalufia. The Spanifh anti-
quarians fay Evora was firft built by the Celti, about feven
hundred and filty-nine years before the birth of Chrift.
Pliny and others affirm, that it was inhabited by the Gauls,
Phoenicians, and Perfians. Quintus Sertorius, the cele-
brated Roman Captain, made himfelf mafler of it about
eighty years before Chrift, and fecured it with walls, for-
tifications, and fubterraneous ways \ he alfo ornamented
it
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 305
if- with fevcral public buildings, fome of which cxift to
this day.
Julius Ciefar was the next that fubdued Evora ; he
made it a municipal town, and gav^e it the name of
Liberalitas yulia. The Moors took pofTeflion of it in
the year feven hundred and fifteen. It is not fo large as
Oporto, though confidered as the fecond city in the
kingdom. The number of its inhabitants are computed
at twenty thoufand, among whom are many families of
difl:in<5lion. It contains a college and a tribunal of inqui-
fition. 'J he members of the latter may be confidered as
holding (inecure places ; for the power of this tribunal is
greatly fallen, and liktly never more to rife again.
AquediiSi of ^Ser tortus, Plate XV IL
Among the public buildings raifed here by Quintus
Sertorius, there exifts a noble Aquedudl in good preferva-
tion; the annexed View of it was taken about a mile and
half to the North of the city. The piers are nine feet
bro.id, by four feet and a half thick ; the arched fpace
between is thirteen feet fix inches, which is equal to the
breadth and thicknefs of each pier added together. At
intervals buttrefi'es are fuperadded to the piers, the better
to fecure the arcuaticn. The whole is formed of irregular
ftone, except the arches, which are of brick.
From
J04 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
From the labour and expence required in building
Aquedu£ls of this kind, many people have been led to
conclude, that the ancients were unacquainted with the art
of conveying water through unequal grounds by any other-
means, on account, as it is fuppofed, of their ignorance
that water conveyed in tubes attained the level of its pri-
mitive fource. Vitruvius, however, clearly fliews the con-
trary: in b. viii. c. 7. he gives excellent rules for convey-
ing water in tubes ; rules which, if properly attended to,
would prevent many blunders, in fimilar operations, among
us. Pliny alfo, in b. xxxi. c. 6, exprefsly mentions, that
the ancients frequently conveyed water in this manner.
It is a miftaken notion then, to fuppofe that they were
ignorant of the principles of hydraulics ; becaufe they
generally conveyed water in aqueduds, in preference to
pipes-
Plate XVIII, is a perfpedive reprefentation of a caf-
tellum, which is ereded over the above Aquedudl at its
termination in the city. In the centre of it is a fmall
refervoir, from whence tubes are conveyed to the different
fountains and ciftcrns, agreeably to what Vitruvius re-
commends, b. viii. c. 7.
The plan of this caflellum is circular ; its greatefl dia-
meter is twelve tect fix inches, independent of the fur-
lounding columns, which are eight in number, of the
Ionic
Plale XVm
1 nn/S'-:
4 V1E>V0F, THE CASTMLLUM OF Q.SERTOMIUS a^EVORA ,
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
5^5
Ionic Order. In each intercolumniation is a niche, with
a ftriated head ; an aperture is formed in one of them to
give accefs to the infide of the ftruclure. The fecond
ftory is decorated with Ionic pilafters, between which
are apertures for ventilation j the top is crowned with an
hemifpherical dome.
What appear fingular in this antique monument, are
the acrotoires and deprefled parapet over the entablature
oi the columns. It is probable that each of thefe acro-
toires was formerly crowned with a vafe : the remains of
one is ftill vifible, as cxprefTed in the View ; and the
fragment of a pedeftal to be fpen in one of the niches,
induces me to fuppofe that each of thefe alfo was decorated
with a vafe.
The whole is conftru6led of brick, incruftated with
cement, of fo hard ana durable a fubftance, that few parts
of it appear to have failed by the natural decays of time.
Confidering it was built feventy years before the Chriftian
sera, we cannot but admire how fuch an apparently
delicate ftrudure has refifted the accumulated injuries
of time. Upon the whole, it may be juflly confidered
one of the bed preferved and mofi: beautiful pieces of an-
cient architedlure in exiftence.
Here we have a flriking inftance of what a good archi-
ted is capable of effeding with the meaneft materials.
RR Of
J
06 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
Of its dimenfions, nothing can be more elegant than this
caftellum, though formed of brick and cement.
The Greeks had many buildings conftrufted of the like
materials * ; and we find in Vitruvius, b. ii. c. 3. that the
Romans alfo frequently built with bricks, as the remains of
their edifices evince to this day. Palladio has left us a fine
fpecimen of this mode of building in an odlaftile portico at
Venice; the columns of which are thirty-five feet high,
formed of bricks that were caft in circular moulds, and cut
into quadr.mts before they were baked. From thefe, and
many other examples that we could refer to, of elegant
buildings conftriif9-ed of brick, it appears evident that the
meannefs of our edifices, proceeds not from want of ma-
terials, but architeds ; for there is no country^ however
barren, but affords better materials than artifts.
Temple of Dla7ia. Plate XIX.
This Plate exhibits a view of another ftruflure, built by
Sertorius, faid to be the remains of a Temple dedicated
to Diana. The front of it prefents an hexaftyle in the
Corinthian Order ; the diftribution of which appears to be
pycnojlylos ; for the intercolumniation is exadlly one dia-
meter and a half, like that of the Temple of the deified
Julius, and of the Temple of Venus in Caefar's forum,
mentioned by Vitruvius, b. iii. c. 3.
* Vide Reptarqutt fur PArchiunure des jSucientf par M. Winchlmann,
The
^
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 307
The diameter of the columns is three feet four inches.
The bafe is Attic, in height a fe mi-diameter -of the co-
lumn, or twenty inches, including the upper liftle. The
fhafts are cut into channels and fillets ; each channel is
fix inches and a half broad, and a femi-circle in depth j
the number of channels in each column is but fixteen.
Vitruvius afligns twenty-four channels to the Corinthian
column, yet the appearance of thefe ftris is not unpleafing.
For proportion and delicacy of fculpture the capitals are
much to be admired.
The entablature is entirely deftroyed, except part of
the firft facia of the architrave ; the reft of the work is
in a degree of prefervation fcarcely credible for a monu-
ment of its age. For this it is indebted to the durability
of the materials, which is a fpecies of granite fomewhat
afperous, but exceedingly hard. The rubble-work in the
front and fides is evidently Moorifque, as may be inferred
from the pinnacles with which it is crowned.
At one fide of the hexaftyle are five columns, including
the angular one ; at the other, I could difcover but three.
From thefe and the columns of the front we may infer that
it had been a Peripteral Temple ; for, according to Vi-
truvius, b, iii. c. I. Temples of this kind had i\x columns
in the front, and as many in the pojricus ; the flanks had
eleven each, including the angular columns, and a fpace
R R 2 equal
3o8 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
equal to an intercolumn was left at every fide between
the furrounding columns and the cell or body of the
Temple.
The elegance difplayed in the remains' of this Temple,
have led many to conjedure that the archited: had been a
Greek, from a fuppoHtion that Rome at the time of Ser-
torius had not artifts competent to deiign and execute fo
polifhed a fabric. My firft knowledge of it was derived
from Don Ignacia de Manique^ the Intendant General of
Lifbon. In point of antiquity, as well as elegance, it is
the moft eftimable ftru6lure in Portugal, yet I am forry
to add, that the flate of negled: in which it is left re-
dounds little to the honour or difcernment of the people of
Evora. It is now converted into the meaneft of offices — a
meat-fhambles. In this refpedt, however, it may be faid
to have fome affinity to its former deftination ; for then it
flowed with the blood of vidims, which were facrificed to
appeafe the Goddefs Diana ; whereas the like tragedies are
now performed in it to appeafe hungry mortals. Indeed,
it appears to have been perpetually deftined for a theatre
of tragic exhibitions.
Several ancient infcriptional floncs have been found from
time to time in this city and its environs, of which there
are nine to be feen in an old wall contiguous to the prifon,
with two modern ones. Copies of thefe infcriptions may
4 be
natoXX
D
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BASI. AENE S?» = D
ritl'/iji/n\i Mtu/r)'i^ip./>i/ CuM/ ti/iif n.fvus in the Slmnd
< y
Plate XXII
PAVJilL L O . AKl) . Q) %
J[])i*£''ORVM . ET . AVf-f''...^'
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, C)EJ'.:rUlliO ' .-\i'N " l.X.XA^» ANTE«B - CHRlSTVM^NAT^TVI'
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!■ \'^i • .DEAroElTNM " NOYA - FO]RMA»LIBERALMMPEN.
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PHILIP. II. AWAM- A . Q'« SERTORIO 'AB^AdJ
NVNC« OBIVOR " perdvct:\m
''ET. lOANl^E.ffltRESTITVTAM • REGNI 'ET» F il'
[{ilTATIS » IL^MeI • M\WIFI€ENTL\"IlEGIA^€ON:|g
^'ERVMWAM • CVRAVIT - KEnIiFICIS - BENEF!C^^^|p
PONI ' STATVIT- CEPPIS - EBORENS • ANTIQYAp
NOBULITATEM » ATTEST.\NTIBVS ° FORYAl'''5i
ILLVSTRAT - ANNO • BOM • MDCY »
I'uNtsIUii Mil/ /.'jj^,i.di/ lutUHtvut /)tn/t\f in thf Stntiid
PlateXOn
^'i"i'ii.^"''.'ii'''|^ii:i:'iNi':iiMiiiiiii;;ii^,i,i'i,i:,;',:Mni:,ii:iiiiiii ,,
A COPYOFANARABIC INSCRIFTIOy^^^at EVORA ,
PiibU^hi'MatfAj^.bifCadtUiuui'Dityte.iifi.llieSlnind.
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL.
;o9
be feen in the following Plates; viz. XX.' XXI. XXIF.
I cannot help obferving that the infcriptional ftone Dj
reprefented in Plate XX. appears to be fiditious.
Plate XXIIL is a copy of an Arabic infcriptional Stone
at Evora.
The prototypes of the ancient vafe M, and of the Doric
frieze N, in Plate XIV. are alfo preferved in the wall
wherein the above infcriptional ftones are placed.
Charjiel Houfe. Plate AXIV,
One morning, whilft I was making fome fketches in the
Pra9a, or Square, at Evora, a Francifcan Friar accofted
me, and afked, if I had feen the Cafa dos Ofos of his con-
vent ? On being anfwered in the negative, he replied,
Well then, Mr. Strange?', thou hajl feen nothing; corns
with me. We pafTed through the Francifcan church, and
entered an arched -way, over which is this infcription :
Nos OS ofos que aqui ejlamos,
Pellos vojjos efperamos.
Reader, refpedt each mouldering bone ;
This facred cell await thy own.
The vifitant is ftruck with furprize, mixed with ter-
ror, on entering this Golgotha. It is fixty-fix feet long,
by thirty-iix broad. The piers, which are eight in num-
berj
3IO TRAVELS I N P O R T U G A L.
ber, that is, four at each fide of the nave, and alfo the
walls, are lined with human fkulls and bones, fet in a hard
cement. The obfcurity of the place, and the proftrate
pofture of the pious fupplicants, render the whole a fcene
truly awful.
Dr. Young, who is faid to have compofed his Night
Thoughts by the light of a taper fet in a human fkuU,
would have faturated his melancholy had he fludied here ;
yet the Friars appeared to contemplate thefe mementos of
mortality without the leaft emotion of that awe incident
to ftrangers. Such ia tKc ciTc^a of cuilom, even death it-
felf is diverted of its terror in the idea of religious people,
who are conftantiy ruminating on it, and alfo in the idea
of thofe men who are habituated to the fight of dead bodies
and fanguinary fcenes.
Montagne obfervcs, '' It was for this purpofe that
fepulchres and cemeteries were made adjoining to the
churches, and in the moft frequented p rts of the city,
with a view to diveft the people (fays Lycurgus) of the
idea of terror at the fight of a corpfe, and to the end that
the continual fight of bones, graves, monuments, and fu-
neral obfequies, fhould put them in mind of their trail
condition."
We may alfo add a cuflom that obtained among the Mexi-
cans, when the Spaniards firft invaded their country, pro-
5 bably
/■
TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 311
bably with a view to infpire courage, as well as to accuftom
their people to contemn the horrors of death. They fre-
quently hung the fkulls of their vidlims around their
temples, and at other times piled them up in towers
cemented with lime. In one of thefe towers And7~ea de
Tape a is faid to have counted an hundred and thirty-fix
thoufand fkulls.
Hence, perhaps, the cuftom of the ancient Romans, who
at their banquets were wont to treat their guefts with
tragic exhib'fion^, mplcing fencers fight in their prcfcnce
till ftreams of blood gufhed over the tables and dilhcs.
The Egpytians, in like manner, at their feaft,, had perfons
who cried to the company whilft they exhibited images
of death j Drink, and be merry, for fuch fhall be thy
fate at
THE END.
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