i
soxa
UNIVERSITY OF
AT LOS ANGELES
A
TRAVELS
IN THE
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA
IN THE YEARS 1822 AND 1823.
St..
BY
G. MOLLIEN.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.
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LONDON :
PRINTED FOR C. KNIGHT, PALL-MALL EAST.
1824.
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CONTENTS.
CT x^ Pages.
HAPTKR I.— Departure from France— The Azores— Coasts
of the United States— Norfolk— Washinston— New Car-
thag-ena— Departure for Bogota— Turbaco— Barranca-
Route from Carthaitena to the Mairdalena . l
Chap. II.— Departure from Barranca— Village ofTenerifle—
Serabrano— Isle San Pedro— Pinto— Santa Anna— Mon-
pox— The Governor of Monpox— Margarita — Guamo—
\ Penon— Banko— Sierra-Ocana— Regidor — Rio-Viejo—
^ Morales— Vadillo— The inhabitants of the Magdalena
^ —Boca Rosario— San Pablo— The point of Barbacoa—
^ Garapata — Angustura — Nare 22
^ Chap. Ill,— Branch of the Magdalena— The Miel— Rio Ne-
gro— Guarumo—ThePromontory of Garderia— The Rocks
of Perico— Honda— Description of the Magdalena 46
Chap. IV.— Route from Honda to Bogota— Rio'Seco—Ven-
ta Grande— Mountain of Sarjento— Valley of Guaduas-
Billeta—Facatativia— Description of the Plain of Bogota
—Fall of Tequendania— Natural Bridge of Pandi 57
Chap. V.— .Tourney into the province of Socorro, situated to
^ the north of Santa-Fe de Bogota 74
.^ Chap. VI.— Situation of the Country from 1498to 1781.— The
>^^ ancient inhabitants— Tiieir customs- Their manners-
^ Commercial, religious and military conquests— Quesada
^ —Decrease of the Indian population— Negroes— Their
condition— Mixture of the races— Ports— Churches— Vil-
lages— Towns— Mines— Colonial agriculture— European
agriculture— Industry— Spanish Government- Profound
Chap. VII.— Revolt of Socorro.— Insurrection of 1794-^Spa*-
^ msh Viceroys— Revolt of Caracas in I8l0— Revolt of
New Grenada— TheViceroy Amar— Miranda— Bolivar—
a Monteverde reconquers Caracas— Bolivar passes over
^ to Curasao— He abandons it— Returns by Carthagena to
5 Caracas— Is defeated— Crosses the Cordillera— Seizes
y Santa-Fe— Marches to attack Castillo at Carthagena—
Is defeated— Passes over to Jamaica— General ambi-
tion— Morillo subjects the country ioq
Chap. VIII — Samanon Viceroy— Spanish Soldiers— Ameri-
can Soldiers— Bolivar returns to Santa-Fe— Proceeds to
Quito— Afterwards to Guayaquil- Character of the
principal Generals 141
Chap. IX.— The new Government— Constitution of Cuciita
—Division of the country into departments— Renewal
ot the Cabildos— Civil laws— Justice— Congress— The
Executive Power l^g
Chap. X.— Return to Bogota— Puenta Real— Copper mines
of Momquira— Chinquira— Salt mines of Zipaquira.. 173
>,- Chap. XI.— Santa-F(^ de Bogota— Climate— Houscs—Furni-
ture--CathedraI— Convents— Hospital — Colleses -The
President's Palace— Palace of the Deputies— Palace of
IV • CONTENTS.
Pages
Ihe Senate — Prisons — The Mint and Theatre — Streets —
Police — Market — Paupers — Public Walks — Mode of
Living — Shops — Amusements — Fete Dieu — Manners —
Devotees — Scientific Establishments — Character of the
.-- Inhabitants 184
I Chap. XII. — Finances — Brandy — Post Office — Revenue —
Stamps — Alcavala — Direct Taxation — War — Army —
' Fortified places — Marine — Foreign Relations 207
Chap, XIII. — Departure from Bogota for Popayaii Gua-
duas — Chaguani — San-Juan — Return to Guaduas — Short
stay in that Town — Beltran — Ambalema — San Luis —
Chaparral — Natagaima — Parande — Saraboja — Villa Vie-
ja— Neyva., 220
Chap. XIV. — Tambo del Ovo — Passo Domingarios — Rope
Bridge — La Plata — Pedregal — San Francisco — Insa
Mountain of Guanacas — Totoro — Panikita — Popayan —
Volcano of Purace 256
Chap. XV. — Departure from Popayan — Mine of Allegrias
Quilichao — The Cauca — Samondi — Cali — Departure from
Cali — Las Juntas , . 281
Chap. XVI. — Dangerous navigation of the Dagua — San-
Buenaventura — Description of the province of Choco
Departure from San-Buenaventura on board a Peruvian
schooner — Arrival at Panama — Observations on the great
^ Ocean 293
^Chap. XVII. — Description of the town of Panama The
women of Colombia 316
Chap. XVIII. — Description of the Republic of Colombia —
Mountains — Climate — Air — Seasons — Temperature —
Wind — Rain — Tropical Influence — Harvest — Forests —
Rivers — Ravines — Mines — Lakes — Seas — Wild Animals
! Domestic Animals — Plains of the Oronooko — General
appearance of the Country ,327
Chap. XIX — Population — Inhabitants of the Paramos —
Inhabitants of the Corn Mountains — Inhabitants of^je
plains — Indios bravos — Negro Slaves — Religion...... 340
Chap. XX.— Character of the Colombians 358
. Chap. XXI. — Agriculture — Industry Reflexions on the Ca-
■^ panian tree — Mines — Coins — Salt-works— Commerce —
y Exportations — Importations 370
\Chap. XXn. — Communication by land and water — Com-
-- mercial laws 393
Chap. XXIII. — Departure from Panama — Cruces — The
river Chagres — The Gorgona — Chagres 409
Chap. XXIV. †” Arrival at Jamaica — Departure for Euro-
pe — Lucayos or Bahama islands — Falmouth — Arrival in
France ^t. .. 416
Notes and Illustrations 425
'V
TRAVELS
IN THE
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA.
CHAPTER 1.
Departure from France — The Azores — Coasts of the United States — Nor-
folk — Washington — New Carthagena — Departure for Bogota — Tur-
baco — Barranca — Route from Carthagena to the Magdalena.
1 HE sanguinary struggle in which Spanish Ame-
rica was engaged, and the surprising revolution
which had taken place there, opening as it did to
foreigners the long-closed ports of that con-
tinent, had excited my curiosity in the highest
degree. Longing to satisfy it, I eagerly embraced
the first opportunity which presented itself; a
ship of war being on the point of sailing to the
Antilles for the protection of our commerce, I
solicited permission to embark on board her ;
my request was granted.
I lost no time in making the necessary pre-
parations, and, upon arriving at the place of
embarkation, was informed that the vessel would
first touch at the United States; information
B
TRAVELS IN THE
which, far from being- disagreeable, was par-
ticularly gratifying, as it would procure me the
means of visiting both Americas.
y\fter some unforeseen delays, we set sail in
the month of August, 1822. On the 1st of Sep-
tember we came in sight of the Azores ; passed
St. Michael ; and, early the next day, saw Ter-
ceiras, St. George, and Pico. An American
whaler was the only vessel we met with in these
latitudes.
Our passage was on the whole favourable,
and would have been completely so, but for the
fogs on the coast of North America, which pre-
vented our seamen from taking observations suf-
ficiently exact to remove all uncertainty. At
length, on the 26th, at six o'clock in the even-
ing, an American pilot comforted us with the
assurance that we were not far from land ; and,
the next day, we descried the sandy coasts of
Virginia covered with forests of pines. At one
o'clock in the afternoon we anchored at a short
distance from the fort of Hampton, now called,
after the president, Fort Monroe.
Before the arrival of a boat to carry me to
Norfolk, which is about four leagues to the south-
east of Hampton, I had an opportunity of exa-
mining the novel spectacle which surrounded
me ; and saw, with particular interest, the fort
raised in the middle of the bay to defend the
entrance to the Chesapeak, by which the English,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 6
in 1814, penetrated as far as Washington. Tliis
fort requires three hundred pieces of artillery.
It was not till the evening of the 28th, that
I could procure, for my passage to Norfolk, one
of those pilot-boats, so light, but at the same
time so dangerous, in which the helmsman is
obliged to confine himself within a narrow hole
to prevent his being washed away by the billows
which continually break over his frail bark ; the
numerous tacks we were compelled to make pre-
vented our arriving at the town till midnight.
Norfolk is very advantageously situated for
commerce, from its short distance from Chesa-
peak Bay, into which so many rivers discharge
themselves. The streets of Norfolk, as in all
towns of English construction, are wide, and
furnished with trottoirs. The houses are of brick ;
while the variety of their structure, and the neat-
ness prevailing in their interiors, impart an air of
cheerfulness to Norfolk which renders it very
interesting to foreigners.
Upon seeing the grass plots which surround
each habitation, and the trees which overshadow
its roof, the traveller would be tempted to ima-
gine himself in the midst of the country, did not
the confusion caused by numerous carriages of
all descriptions, and the bustle of the port, which
hundreds of boats and vessels are crossing in
every direction, announce that Norfolk is a com-
mercial town of considerable importance.
B 2
4 TRWELS IN THE
On the 30tli of September, I left this place
for Washing-ton ; and, after sailing- on the Chesa-
peak till midnight, entered the Potowmack.
At daybreak, we were between the coasts of
Maryland and those of Virginia. The heat was
great ; but little cultivation was visible : the
lands were yet maiden ones. Notwithstanding
the cheap rate at which the government disposes
of them oO francs an acre,* the system of sla-
very kept up m these provinces deters the colo-
nists, who prefer passing the Allegany Mountains,
and establishing themselves in the west, where
they find land at 5 francs an acre.-f- About one
o'clock we discovered Mount Vernon, the resi-
dence of Washington ; although its architecture
is simple, what interesting recollections does it
bring to mind !
Leaving on our right the mouth of the Pis-
cataway, near which is a fort destined one day to
defend the capital from the torches of the Eng-
lish, we came in sight of Alexandria, a town
flourishing during the time of war, but now
in a declining state. Its streets, laid down
geometrically, are all perpendicular to the river,
which produces a singular effect ; for on one
side, it is bordered by woods of pine, and on
the other by forests of masts. From Alexandria
we perceived the wooden bridge of Washington,
* About SB.v. English,
t About 3.V. prf. English.
RKPIJJJLIC OF COLOMIUA. O
which is a mile in extent; and soon after, the city
itself appeared in the midst of cultivated fields,
occupying almost the whole extent allotted to it.
Washing-ton is a city of prodigious extent,
with reference to the plan after which it has
been built ; but, except at the meeting of Con-
gress, it is but a melancholy solitude, in which
it is impossible to escape from ennui. This is
the only time it has the appearance of being
inhabited; and the few country-liouses scattered
about its vicinity are filled with strangers, whose
presence imparts some degree of animation to
the city. At the time I was there, the number
of inhabitants was very small ; so much so, that
I considered I had seen the whole city the very
first day even of my arrival. I shall not here
repeat the description of its public monuments,
as they are to be found in almost every account
of voyages to the United States. The next day I
embarked upon the Potowmack to return to Nor-
folk, and was twenty-four hours in performing
the sixty leagues, which separate the two towns.
Our vessel was to re-victual at Norfolk,
and for this a few days only were requisite. On
the 13th of November we again weighed an-
chor ; the wind, which, at first favourable, had
carried us out of the roads, and enabled us
to double Cape Henry, suddenly became con-
trary, and obliged us to anchor opposite that
point. The delay, however, was not long ; the
6 TRAVELS IN THE
next day we again set sail, and before sun-set
lost sight of the coasts of North America.
Upon arriving in a country to which we
are strangers, every one communicates the in-
formation he has acquired from the relations
of travellers, while the accounts of persons who
have already visited it are listened to with pe-
culiar interest. Upon quitting it, they who at
first, from ignorance, had paid implicit defer-
ence to the accounts of their precursors, and had
confined themselves to being mere auditors, hasten
to avail themselves of their newly-acquired ex-
perience, and feel a malicious gratification in
contradicting what they themselves had adopted
in the first instance, as the result of mature re-
flection. Thus it was with each of us ; we were
eager mutually to communicate our remarks,
and to make our comments upon them : many
institutions which seemed inconsistent with the
principle upon which the social edifice of the
United States had been founded, struck us with
astonishment. The lash under which the negro-
slaves still smart cracked in our ears*; the pre-
judices under which men of colour groaned,
shocked our sensibility ; morals appeared re-
laxed, which indeed they must have been to a
great degree to have provoked the censure of
sailors, naturally not inclined to be severe in
* In 1820, the number of slaves in the United States
amounted to 1,538,128.
RKPUBLIC OF COLOiMBFA. 7
these matters. The police, wliich, while it allows
great liberty to foreigners, affords them but little
security against the bad faith of traders, or the
treachery of domestics, allowed but little room
for admiration. Above all, great complaints
were made of the remissness of the Americans
in adopting precautionary measures against the
yellow fever, thus exposing all the towns upon
the coast to its annual ravages. On the other
hand, it was impossible not to praise the activity
of their commerce, the good order of their ma-
rine, the eagerness with which they avail them-
selves of all new inventions, and particularly of
steam-engines, which have become for them, as
well as for every nation that employs them, a
great and incalculable means of riches and
power. Many persons, especially among the
military, were thought to have a leaning towards
aristocracy ; and indeed, some recent institu-
tions, such as the establishment of a school foi"
the officers at New York, prove that the go-
vernment, far from discountenancing, encourage
it. In short, a great source of division might
be foreseen in tlie population of colour which
peoples the southern provinces, while those of
the north contain comparatively but few, who
oppose, to the utmost of their power, the system
of their southern neighbours. In general, the
opinions thus given of countries which we had
only in fact just perceived, were marked by
8 TRAVELS IN THE ^
impartiality ; it was agreed that the manners
of the inhabitants of Virginia might be very
different from those of Pensylvania, and that
the system of slavery imparted so peculiar a phy-
siognomy to the regions of the south, that it was
difficult to recognize the traits of the English
character, — I mean of that creative activity which
operates miracles in so many places.
The towns had appeared dull and the coun-
try monotonous from the forests of pine by which
it was covered, and the roads inconvenient from
being formed of beams as in Russia. The climate
of Norfolk was found to be too warm, that of
Washington too cold and damp. We were gene-
rally pleased with the neatness and simplicity
observable in the interior of the houses, and still
more gratified by the kindness and hospitality of
the inhabitants. These virtues of which they
possessed a great share, were rendered more amia-
ble among the women from the charm of sin •
cerity. — Tlie men generally preserved the charac-
teristic taciturnity of the English.
The winds and the waves were so favorable,
that we daily made great way. The pleasure we
felt at soon arriving in the equinoctial seas con-
tributed much to enliven our conversations ; but
a sudden change of the wind damped our joy,
and caused our hope of making a quick and
agreeable passage to be succeeded by all the dis-
agreeableness of a tedious voyage. In short
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 9
we were becalmed near the Bermudas. In vain
we sought for something to relieve the weary
uniformity of the motionless ocean ; in vain, our
eyes fixed on the horizon, did we endeavour to
discover some movement on the liquid plain ;
all was still. At length some fish made their
appearance, and the pleasure of catching them
was doubled by the hope that they were the pre-
cursors of winds. Their arrival was not a falla-
cious prognostic ; on the 24th of October, a
breeze from the south south-west relieved us
from our unpleasant position, and carried us as
far the 31" of latitude and 62" of longitude. We
did not however cross the tropic until the 3rd
of November. On the 8th we perceived Porto
Rico, and found ourselves in latitude 14" 52';
the next day we sailed in sight of the small is-
lands of Zacheo, Mona and Monito. These iso-
lated rocks, covered with brush-wood, and bind-
weed, appear inaccessible ; before nightfall they
were no longer in sight: we had entered the
sea of the Antilles. Two days afterwards upon
seeing land, we sounded, and found bottom at
forty five fathoms. Having afterwards arrived
in latitude IT' 18', we fell in with the Colum-
bian fleet, dispatched to form the blockade
of Maraca'ibo, which had fallen into the posses-
sion of the Spanish general Morales.
The captain was not without anxiety as he
approached land. The little depth which the
10 TRAVELS IN THE
sounding- line every where indicated, the va-
riation of the currents, the storms which burst
over us daily, and the dangerous coasts suffi-
ciently justified his apprehensions, these were,
however, considerably lessened upon seeing, on
the 15th, the point of Zamba, a promontory
formed by ten unequal mounds. At length on
the 17th, we perceived the convent built upon
the Popa ; Carthagena is at the foot of this
height. The next day we weighed anchor early
and sailed for the port ; we soon passed Boca-
Grande, a canal which the Spaniards the better
to defend the approaches to Carthagena, have
blocked up by sinking old vessels in it; a few
moments after we entered the passage of Boca-
Chica, which is defended by two strong castles.
An officer sent by the commandant of one of the
castles came on board, we then hoisted all
sails, and entered the magnificent port of Car-
thagena about five o'clock in the evening.
The vessel was not long in resuming her
voyage, and I had to feel the regret of separating
from those persons whose amiable society had so
agreeably lessened the tediousness of the passage.
The hope of soon penetrating into the Cor-
dilleras, by reviving my taste for land travel-
ling, had determined me not to proceed any
further by sea ; I remained at Carthagena.
Upon arriving in the town, I had to guard
against those favourable prepossessions which are
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMlilA. I I
almost always indulged, wlieii coming from off
the ocean : all then appears beautiful ; the least
verdure seems a parterre ; a miserable hut a pa-
lace, and any land a paradise. I, on the con-
trary, experienced a very different impression^
and the comparison which I drew between Nor-
folk and Carthagena, was by no means favour-
able to the towns of South America. Cartha-
gena in fact presents the melancholy aspect of
a cloister, long galleries, short and clumsy co-
lumns, streets narrow and dark, from the too
great projection of the terraces which almost
prevent the admission of day-light ; the greater
part of the houses dirty, full of smoke, po-
verty stricken, and sheltering beings still more
filthy, black and miserable, such is the picture
at first presented by a city adorned with the
name of the rival of Rome. However, on enteriug
the houses, their construction, singular at first
sight, appears afterwards to be well contrived,
the object being to admit the circulation of the
fresh air. The rooms are nothing but immense
vestibules in which the cool air, unfortunately so
rare, might be respired with the utmost delight,
were it not for the stings of thousands of insects,
and for the bats whose poisonous bites are not
only more painful, but are even said to be ve-
nemous. A table, half-a-dozen wooden chairs,
a mat bed, a large jar, and two candlesticks
generally compose the whole stock of furniture
12 TRAVELS IN THE
of these habitations, which are built of brick and
covered in with tiles. Two sieges, which Car-
thagena has undergone, have ruined the re-
sources of the majority of its inhabitants.
Carthagena is very strong, and of vast ex-
tent ; 9000 men at least would be required to
defend it at all points. The immense cisterns
contained within its walls are justly objects of
admiration ; and the water preserved in them is
excellent. Carthagena is therefore rather a for-
tified than a commercial town, and will entirely
cease to be the latter, when it is no longer the
entrepot of Panama. At a distance of two hun-
dred leagues from the equator, its temperature
is hot and unhealthy, and the yellow fever makes
frequent ravages there.
The population of Carthagena, about 18,000
souls, is for the most part, composed of people of
colour, the greater proportion of whom are sai-
lors or fishermen. Many keep shops for the sale
of mercery or eatables, others follow useful
trades ; they display a nascent industry, which,
to prosper, perhaps only requires encouragement
and enuilation. Their shell-works are beautiful,
they are skilful jewellers, good carpenters, ex-
cellent shoemakers, tolerable tailors, indifferent
joiners, black rather than whitesmiths, masons
destitute of all ideas of proportion, and bad
painters, but impassioned musicians.
The dangers of the sea, an industry often
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 13
ptalsed, and always well paid, liave inspired the
people of colour with a pride, which often gives
occasion for complaint. Their petulance and
vivacity form a singular contrast with the in-
difference and mildness of those who are called
whites, so that, notwithstanding their idleness,
they appear active and laborious. The contra-
band trade is exclusively confined to them, and
the heartiness with which they engage in it, is
a reproach to those whose duty it is to put a
stop to the illicit traffic.
The women of colour, the offspring of ne-
gresses and white men, are tall, and much more
agreeable than the mulattos of our Antilles who
are generally too corpulent ; daughters of the
Indians and negroes, their physiognomy possesses
greater delicacy and expression. If, on the one
hand, the races become more enervated under
the tropics as they become fairer, on the other,
their personal appearance is improved ; thus it
is, that the female mulattos are very inferior
in beauty to the white, and lose much when seen
near them, which often happens with the Spa-
niards, in whose churches there are no privi-
leged places as in those of the United -States.
With the Spaniards, all pray to God in common,
without regard to colour, and an insurrection
would doubtless be the consequence, should the
following notice be officially affixed at the church
doors : TV> (lay instruction for men of colour.
14 TRAVELS IN THE
On the 1st of January, 1823, I prepared for
my departure to Santa-Fe de Bogota. The alarm
every where inspired by the proximity of Mora-
les, at that time master of Maracaibo, had pre-
vented my setting out earlier. As soon as I was
assured that the Spanish general was not ap-
proaching Rio-Magdalena, I applied to the go-
vernor for horses. This officer sent in search
for them in every direction. As the army of
Montillo, tlie patriotic chief, was being re-
mounted, the country people kept their animals
concealed in the woods, in order to escape the
requisitions ; some however, were at length dis-
covered, and notwithstanding the well founded
complaints of their owners, were brought to me
harrassed, and worn out with hunger and fatigue.
In the mean time, while trusting too much to
my muleteer, I was engaged in preparing for my
journey, the poor beasts were tied up in a court-
yard, wliere they remained three whole days
without a blade of grass to support nature, so
that, when unconscious of their wants, I began my
journey, I met with continual interruptions from
the wretched animals dying every instatit upon the
road from exhaustion. The heat was most inten-
se, and we were with difficulty making our way
through the woods, when I heard a voice beliind
me exclaim in French : Monsieur, oil allez-vous I
The question and the language in which it was
expressed, made me turn my head, and I saw
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA.
15
a youn;^ man spnrrin<^ on his horse in order to
overtake me : after having- answered liis ques-
tion, he anticipated my enquiries, by informing
me that he was born at St. Etienne en Forest,
that he was by trade a gunsmith, and liad come
to Columbia witli the hope of making his fortune,
but all his calculations had proved erroneous.
After mentioning some other particulars, he pro-
posed accompanying me ; I willingly accepted
his offer, and had no reason to regret doing so ;
for perceiving how much I was plagued with my
horses, he rendered me considerable service,
both by assisting the muleteer and urging on the
horses which lagged behind. We passed by Ter-
nera, and conversing as we proceeded, upon the
robberies committed a short time before upon
this road by deserters, arrived safely at Turba-
co, much fatigued with our first day's journey.
A letter of recommendation which the in-
tendant at Carthagena had given me to all the
alcaides, insured me a good reception atTurbaco,
the alcaid procured me a lodging at the house
of one of the principal citizens ; he was a painter,
a title uniformly assumed by the daubers of that
country ; my host however shewed me a thousand
civilities.
According to the travelling custom of Spa-
nish Americans, I had provided myself with
a kettle, a frying-pan, and all the ntensil
and provisions not procurable on the road. I
16 TRAVELS IN THE
had also one of those beds brought from Spain,
generally esteemed so very convenient from their
being contained in a small trunk, easily carried
by the beast of burden. I therefore caused my host
but little trouble ; my bed was spread out in one
of the best rooms of the house. All night long, I
felt it very cool, a proof that this place is very
healthy for Europeans, who, from fear of the
climate of Carthagena, should remain here till
their vessels are ready to sail. Turbaco is only
six leagues from Carthagena, which renders a
residence in this village doubly agreeable from
the facility afforded of being quickly in the
centre of business.
I left Turbaco the next day, the alcade had
procured me two saddle-horses, in lieu of the
wretched beasts of the preceding day. Not-
withstanding the excessive heat, we arrived at
an early hour at Ajona ; I presented myself at
the alcades, the only attention I received was
an order for lodging upon one of his subordina-
tes. Wlien I asked the alcade to procure horses,
he replied, that it was impossible before the fol-
lowing day; this was a very great disappointment.
My host, to whom I mentioned my embar-
rassment instantly dispatched some of his people
into the country, and before four o'clock my bag-
gage was all loaded. A glass of rum testified
my gratitude to this worthy man, and I per-
ceived that among the christians of America,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 17
l)otl) services and gratitude are obtained with
tliis liquor, as they are among- the Mahometan
negroes of Africa, by tobacco. Night soon sur-
prised us, and our progress was very uncertain.
After having wandered a long time in the woods,
the assistance of a beautiful moonlight enabled
us to recover our track ; and, at nine o'clock
at night, we were on the banks of the Dique,
a branch of the Magdalena, by which Cartha-
gena is approached in the rainy season. When I
crossed it, its waters were very low, and yet
reached to our saddles. Neither bridge nor
ferry had yet been established on this canal,
although these are to be found in other places
far less difficult; the traveller has, however, less
to complain of the inconvenience of the ford,
than of the musquitoes which infest it. It is in
vain to hasten from these desolate shores, these
formidable insects are again met with at JVIa-
hates, a village containing about two hundred
inhabitants, where to sleep is absolutely impos-
sible. We both rose before day-break, in order
to leave as quickly as possible this place of suffer-
ing; and, at seven o'clock, passed through Santa
Crux, about three leagues farther on : this village
is composed of twenty huts belonging to negroes,
who are cultivators of cotton. It is singular,
that the negroes, who have brought into America
so many customs, and even utensils and instru-
ments belonging to the countries whence they
c
18 TRAVELS IN THE
were taken, have no where given a ronncl form
to their ajoupas, which are all square.
At Ariando, the alcaid received us in his
hut, constructed with hurdles of rushes, and
plastered over with mud mixed with straw.
Near this place, we met a government cou-
rier, the bearer of an order to the governor of
Carthagena, for the transportation of three hun-
dred Spaniards. This man was very angry at
my muleteer, who, speaking of the capital, had
said Santa Fe, instead of Bogota. Fortunately,
however, the quarrel here ended. We discovered
Barranca from the top of the coast on the decli-
vity of which this town is built. I lodged there
at the house of an old Peruvian, whose services
in the cause of liberty had been so important,
that he flattered himself with obtaining the situ-
ation of director of the posts at Carthagena, the
emoluments of which amount to 10,000 francs.*
Although on the road from Carthagena to
Barranca, there are neither rugged mountains to
climb, nor deep rivers to cross, yet the suffo-
cating heat, and the thin and burning air re-
spired in the forests he has to traverse, cause
much suffering to the European traveller. It is
true, that, to make up for these evils, he is sure to
meet with hospitality ; nor is it a trifling advan-
tage to find, in the deserts of the New World, a
* About £375 sterling.
RR PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 19
lodging, a kitchen, and the power of procuring,
at a small expense, fowls, eggs, and bread ; beef
is very seldom to be met with. With a few
exceptions, I had very little reason to be satisfied
with the alcaids.
The aspect of these countries is interesting
for the admirers of wild and savage scenery.
Trees of immense height, and a healthy vegeta-
tion, cover the whole country ; and the shade
thus afforded would be delicious, could it be
penetrated by the cool zephyrs. The mahagua
(bombax) is especially woitliy of engaging the
traveller's attention : the trunk of this tree is
very lofty, and bears upon its top a foliage ex-
tremely thick. The fruit contains a woolly sub-
stance, which the negroes gather very carefully
for the purpose of stuffing their pillows.
But few things have been planted on these
vast tracts bv the hand of man ; a few cotton
and mace fields, a few feet of indigo, compose
the whole of their agricultural riches. Under a
kind master, the negro, who with the mulatto is the
most frequently met with, gives himself up to the
idleness, to which he is invited by the heat of the
equinoctial line, and the multiplicity of his reli-
gious festivals. Bound to pay his landlord a fixed
and moderate rent, he is punctual in discharging
it, as much labour is not required to obtain its
amount. Thus, in the space which separates
Barranca from the seas, a territory is found,
c 2
20 TRAVELS IN THE
which is cultivated and inhabited similarly to
those which 1 had ti-a versed in Africa ; I should
even have been sometimes tempted to believe
that I was still travelling- upon that continent,
had I not every where seen the autliority in the
hands of the whites, or of people who aftect that
title, without possessing- any real right to it.
The road, although convenient enough, is not
very level ; the ground is hilly, so that the tra-
veller is frequently ascending and descending-.
As this road is, during the dry season, the prin-
cipal line of communication between the capital
and the coast, its traffic is considerable ; yet
notwithstanding, no rich towns are to be met
with ; there are a few cattle, but in this season
they are very poor. All animals in the tropical
plains, like the plants, require the rains to invi-
gorate them ; these being over, they again droop
and languish.
Jaguars, monkeys, and parrots, make the
air re-echo with their cries ; and vast numbers
of stags and wild hogs people the woods.
Nothing picturesque is to be found in these
extensive forests, the dull uniformity of which
is only now and then varied by numerous tribes
of flowers. Upon approaching the Magdalena,
the prospect becomes more inviting ; the long
tracts of granite (gres) which impart such a
sombre character to the road from Carthagena
to Barranca disappear ; alluvial lands seem to
HE PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 21
invite the inliabltants to bestow a better culti-
vation upon them ; the verdure, more frequently
watered, is less sickly; while the cattle feedings
upon more juicy pastures, are fatter and more
prolific.
Barranca, the town at which travellers as-
cending the Magdalena, embark in the dry
season, is thinly peopled, notwithstanding its
agreeable situation. If the heat is very intense
there during the day, the breeze which occasion-
ally rises, refreshes the atmosphere ; nor is this
its only advantage, it likewise drives towards
the head of the river the immense clouds of
musquitoes, from which Barranca is conse-
quently freed. The importance which this place at
present enjoys, on account of the piraguas* and
the asses let out to travellers, will cease as soon
as the Dique is rendered navigable at all seasons ;
a design intended to be carried into execution.
* The piragua is a large canoe, managed with oars,
about 30 feet long and 4 broad in the middle. Each piragua
has two masts and two square sails. Tiie rowers are called
Bogus. — Translator.
22 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Barranca — Village of Teneriffe — Sembrano^Isle San Pe-
dro—Pinto — Santa Anna — Monpox — ^The Governor of Monpox — Rlar-
^rita — Guamo — Penon — Banko — Sierra-Ocana — Regidor — Rio-Viejo —
Morales — Vadillo — The Inhabitants of the Magdalena — Boca Rosa-
rio^San Pablo — The Point of Barbacoa — Garapata — Angustura —
Nare.
To accomplish our journey to Bogata, it was
necessary to ascend the Magdalena ; and al-
though the navigation is dangerous, and requires
a month to accomplish it, I considered it pre-
ferable to the journey over-land. Before em-
barking, I took the opinion of my host, who
gave me his advice in a few words, and painted
the sufferings I should have to endure in the
blackest colours.
The first proof of his not having been guil-
ty of any exaggeration, was in beholding tlie
five sailors, hired to conduct my piragua, and
who were completely inebriated. There was
something very designing in their savage coun-
tenances, but this I afterwards found belonged
rather to their peculiar employment, than to
any thing particularly wicked in their dispo-
sitions. Thanks to the care of the old Peru-
vian, my arrangements were promptly concluded.
REPUBLIC OK COLORUJIA. 23
By five o'clock all my effects were on boiii-d my
fragile bark ; and my bogas, as they call the
mariners of the Magdalena, bade their adieu
to Barranca chaunting the litanies of the Vir-
gin.
In consequence of their intoxication, at
every thrust which these boatmen gave with
their poles, to push forwards the piragua, they
staggered and fell one over the other into the
water, so that it was seven o'clock before we
passed Barranca-Nueva, which I had recently
quitted. At half-past eight we stopped at Oiou-
gar. The next morning, we again started before
the rising of the sun, and by the time it ap-
peared, beheld with delight a charming vil-
lage, to which its name Buena-Vista, signifying
a delightful prospect, is certainly well applied.
We thence glided along between the verdant
banks of a river, which, besides its magnitude,
presented me vvitlj many other traits of resem-
blance to the Senegal. The solitude of the
forests on its uncultivated borders, the heat that
we experienced, and the black human beings
who, at considerable intervals, were seen seated
under their cabins of reeds surrounded by
fields of maize, or, cleaving the current of the
river in hollow trees, transported me in imagin-
ation to the wilds of Africa.
The negro of the Magdalena does not, how-
ever, possess the manly courage, the bold intre-
24 TRAVELS IN THE
pidity, and the muscular form of the inhabitant
of Senegal; neither has he that blind confi-
dence in the protection of his God, with which
a scrap of paper purchased of an impostor of
a priest, inspires the other. The African, rely-
ing on the efficacy of such a talisman, neither
dreads the gripe of the crocodile, nor the venom
of the snake ; he throws himself without dread
into the water, and penetrates without inquie-
tude into the deepest thickets. The degenerate
black of the Magdalena is every where in dread
of meeting with an enemy, and never forgets
the spot that lias been fatal to an imprudent
being. " Here," said one of my bogas to me,
" a man and his ass were devoured by a ser-
pent : there, a boga fell a prey to a cayman,
and in that place, a jaguar tore an infant to
pieces;" — and such are the frightful recollec-
tions afforded by every part of the ,\Iagdalena.
The African, on the contrary, when amid his
native streams recites nothing but tlie sanguinary
contests sustained by man against ferocious ani-
mals, and the victories which crowned his fana-
tical valour.
Without regarding the danger we ran of
encountering the partisans of Morales, we kept
upon the shore of Santa-Martha, in order to
avoid the dangerous currents of the other side
of the river ; and, after having proceeck'd three
leagues beyond Tcneriffe, making our wliole
RKPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. liO
day's voyage thirty leagues, we took up our
abode for the night upon a sandy spot of shore
in the province of Carthagena.
The labours of my bogas were now exces-
sively painful ; from the river becoming very nar-
row, the current was much increased in violence,
and could only be surmounted by keeping close
in shore, and hauling ourselves along by the
branches of the trees. \^^e here experienced
some gales from the north, that greatly tem-
pered the heat, which we found excessive during
that part of the night wiien they cease to
blow ; on the contrary, from two o'clock in the
morning to the rising of the sun, the cold was
so piercing, that I was unable to sleep. We were
here no longer solitary possessors of the river ;
for, since the last evening, we were gratified with
the sight of fishermen and crocodiles vying with
each other in giving chase to the fishy tribe.
At two o'clock, we passed Sembrano, and
the island of San Pedro ; and, taking the
right branch of the stream, enjoyed a delicious
prospect. The isle of San Pedro is entirely co-
vered with trees, whose branches serve as a refuge
for thousands of parroquets ; the variegated plu-
mage of the macaws forms an agreeable contrast
to the gloomy green of the trees, while the shrill
cries of these birds somewhat relieve the silence
of this peaceful part of the river. In these so-
litudes, man might find an agreeable retreat
26 TRAVELS IN THE
where the soil, enriched by the inundations of
the river, would largely recompense his labours ;
the situation is also favourable in a commer-
cial point of view, as it is a convenient distance
from Barranca and Monpox. On quitting this
asylum of peace, we again found ourselves ex-
posed to the currents of the river, and not with-
out danger from its rocks and shoals. A Pro-
montory formed of vast cliffs, against which the
waters of the Magdalena were precipitated with
violence, in particular, caused a current which
we surmounted with much hazard and difficul-
ty, and it was ten at night before we had finished
our labours. A sand bank, as usual, was our
place of repose.
Little accustomed to the course of life to
which one is condemned on the waters of the
Magdalena, the neighbourhood of serpents and
caymans, the bites of mosquitoes, and the icy
cold occasioned by the dews and the humidity of
the soil prevented me from sleeping the whole
of the night ; but when use had fortified me
against these inconveniences, the necessity of
taking rest made me disregard them.
When a person is witness of the fatigues
which the mariners of the Magdalena undergo, he
restrains himself, however anxious he may be to
proceed with more expedition, from uttering any
complaints, or from being vexed at the frequent
delays. The bogas make a practice of stopping as
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 27
often cis possible ; to day they thought it neces-
sary to dig up some turtle's eggs; but after all
their trouble, they were unsuccessful, and the
fruit of their labours was a few dozen eggs of
the cayman, which were very properly destroyed:
scarcely had they made this sacrifice, when they
had the happiness of meeting a fisherman with
his piragua laden ; my generosity was instantly ap-
pealed to, and I had an opportunity of displaying
it at a trifling expense, for with a couple of reals
I purchased a dozen large fish which we found
quite sufficient for several meals.
Little alarmed by the perils, with which we
had been informed, we should be menaced on the
side of the province of Santa Martha, we con-
tinued coasting along that shore, stopping a few
minutes at Pinto to purchase some tobacco and
sugar-canes ; commodities which, in this place,
are of a superior quality, and in great abund-
ance. — My bogas, always anxious to obtain some
turtle's eggs, fancied they should be more suc-
cessful than before, upon a sand bank at a little
distance from Pinto, but were again disappointed.
A few cayman's eggs were found and were
broken against the side of the piragua, under the
eyes of one of these reptiles: his muzzle appeared
above the water close to the edge of the river,
nor did he quit us until the work of destruction
was finished. Leaving upon our right that branch
of the river which leads to Saragossa, we entered
28 TRAVELS IN THK
that which goes to Honda, and before night
were in sight of Santa Anna.
When daylight began to appear, we found
ourselves at Monpox, and landed over frag-
ments of the quay with which the banks of the
river had been scattered, a great part of it
having been thrown down by the stream. When I
attained the top, I was conducted to the gover-
nor's residence, across a square that appeared
tolerably regular. — The letter of recommenda-
tion which I had brought with me, procured me
many civilities, and the offer of a lodging, which
I accepted.
The governor, not confining himself to these
attentions, would have me, in the evening, go
over the town on horseback with him. He
seemed anxious that I should examine the pre-
parations he had made for defense against any
attack on the part of Morales. I eulogized the hill
with which he had fortified an open town, as it
properly deserved, and my praises appeared to
give him great satisfaction. " Here, he first
told me, was a number of houses, surrounded by
a thick wood, all of which have disappeared ; for
I have set fire to the whole, to give me a clearer
view of the approach of our enemy." " These
ditches," said he, " will stop his cavalry, while
mine, on the contrary, supported by my infan-
try, will make dreadful havoc among his troops;
and my sloops of war, will pour in a terrible fire
RKPUHLIC or COLOMBIA. 29
upon his vessels." — It was in vain that I used my
best efforts to discover what he wished to show
uie, for about forty horsemen quite naked, en-
camped in the middle of a field under a thatched
shed, with two hundred militia, quartered in an
ancient college of the Jesuits, composed all his
army ; and five boats with one gun to each,
formed the muster of this redoubtable marine.
The town is not destitute of interest on ac-
count of its position. The streets are of a con-
venient breadtli, and some are even furnished
with paved foot-ways. The houses though low,
are regularly built, and the bars of the windows,
being made of iron, have a less clumsy appearance
than those of Carthagena, where they are made
of wood. Constructed in a manner the most con-
venient for enjoying as much coolness as possible,
very little ingenuity is applied to furnishing the
interior with light, for the insides of all the houses
are pervaded by long low galleries into which the
rays of the sun never penetrate. Although the
commercial relations of Monpox have lost much of
their importance, they still retain a certain de-
gree of interest ; in fact, by the way of Ocana,
this place receives the tobacco, sugar, flour, and
cocoa of Pampluna and Cuenta. Antioqua trans-
mits it gold, and 8anta-Fe the produce of the
upper Magdalena ; thus Monpox is still really a
place of much consequence.
30 TRAVELS IN THE
The climate is burning, the thermometer
ranging- from 25" to 30° ; the inhabitants conse-
quently pass the evenings seated in the streets,
to breathe the fresh air, and to escape the stings
of the mosquitoes. The sky is constantly cloudy,
and scarcely a day passes without showers ; the
nights, on the contrary are beautifully clear and
truly delicious. It is then, a great pleasure to
promenade the streets, and observe the lively par-
ties whicli present themselves before the doors
of the houses. Loud bursts of laughter are
heard on every side, in which the passenger takes
part without the least ceremony. Far from this
familiarity being offensive, it gives great satis-
faction, for the frankest cordiality presides at
these meetings. Thus passes the life of the in-
habitants of Monpox ; the day is spent in their
hammocks, the night in the street, and nothing
would trouble their peaceable existence, were they
not afflicted with goitres which disfigure them
in a horrible manner ; without this infirmity,
which usually attacks them at the age of thirty
or forty, they would possess an agreeable figure,
though indeed with less lively expression than
the inhabitants of Carthagena, and with less of
that soft-coloured tint which distinguishes the
natives of Bogota. The manner of living of
the people of Monpox, differs little from that
which the inhabitants of the tierras calieiUas of
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. ,') I
South Aincrcal liave adopted. — All classes liave
a destructive fouduess for ardent spirits ;* ne-
vertheless, the good folks of Monpox drink no-
thing- but water with their meals ; they are great
eaters of pork, and to such an extent is their
passion for pigs carried, that many females
take a pleasure in feeding these disgusting ani-
mals, and teaching them to follow, like so many
dogs.
The delays which I experienced from the
fetes with which they celebrated the taking of
Santa Martha from the Spaniards, terminated on
the 27th. ; but the moment of my departure was
marked by many untoward accidents. I had en-
gaged six boatmen, but only five made their
appearance ; one of them, as I was informed, had
been taken ill, and had spent part of the money
I had paid him in advance. — My piragua was
caulked with the fat of the cayman, and it was
consequently impossible to sleep without running
the risk of being poisoned by the infectious odour
it exhaled. They procured me another ; it
wanted refitting, which was soon accomplished ;
but when we had got a little up the river, the
water penetrated in such quantities, as obliged
us to make for the shore as fast as we could.
At last the obliging disposition of one of the
* They divide the day into different portions consecrated to
drinking, which they stile, fas siete, las onze, las dos, las
quatro, 8fc. Sfc. so that, before night, each man has emptied
his bottle of brandy.
3'2 TRAVELS IN THR
inliabitaiits who lent me his piragua, enabled me
to start by the middle of the day. These an-
noyances I mention only to give some idea of the
impediments that arrest the progress of every
traveller in Spanish America.
At every instant my bogas were stopping at
tlie foot of the habitations which cover the isle
on which Monpox is built. These dwellings,
the plantations of banana-trees, and the light
built barks returning from fishing, or carrying
to the town the produce of their soil, so much
animate this part of the river, that one would
believe one had left the Magdalena, so mournfully
distinguished for its frightful solitudes, and had
entered upon the stream of some richly cultivated
country.
We halted at niglit at a village called Mar-
garita, for the purpose of procuring a boga, as a
substitute for the one who had fallen sick; I
was shewn a strong young man, but it was not
without difficulty that I could persuade him to
follow me, when he found that thev were ne-
groes who had come with me from Monpox ; so
much was he prejudiced against them.
The next day we passed Guaina, situated
upon the shore of Santa Martha, and in the
evening we ran the piragua upon a bank of
sand, an asylum where henceforth I was accus-
tomed to pass my nights.
I had come to some unpleasant explanations
with my watermen, who dissatisfied with labour-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 33
ing- until the close of the day, had talked of
quitting me, but I succeeded partly by menaces,
more by promises in appeasing them. This
mutinous disposition of theirs is certainly not
very encouraging-, for they frequently abandon the
traveller when they are discontented with too
rigorous a service, and take refuge in the first
inhabited place they come to, where they are sure
of finding friends and protectors.
At five o'clock in the morning we passed
below Penon, and after having stopped a few
moments in this village, came in sight of
Banko : about mid-day we discovered Sierra-
Ocana.
From an excess of zeal, or perhaps from the
restlessness occasioned by the bites of the mos-
quitoes, the bogas sang their hymn to the Virgin,
and set off again at midnight. By five we had
passed Regidor, andat seven o'clock, leaving upon
our right that branch of the Magdalena which
leads to Ocana, we entered upon that of Mo-
rales. At Rio-Viejo 1 found the heat much less
than at Monpox ; the sky continually charged
with vapours, had a different tint from that of
the plains. We were already within the in-
fluence of the Cordilleras, and I was much sur-
prised at finding the cocoa and palm trees, in a
country nearly temperate, upon the banks of a
mild and tranquil river, and in a deep and
black earth, while every where else they are
D
34 TRAVKLS IN THE
only to be met with upon the Standy borders of
the sea.
By eight o'clock, the next day, we reached
INIorales^ a large village shaded by cocoa trees
and situated upon an island of the same name ;
the neighbouring' country produces a great quan-
tity of palm wine. The white population of this
place have established some inns, constructed
of hurdles of bamboos, in order tliat the light
and air may penetrate them, and containing two
or three benches with some bull's -hides stretched
upon wooden frames for beds.
Stopping no longer at Morales than was
necessary to purchase some provisions, we soon
discovered the mountains on which Zimitri
elevates itself upon one of the branches of the
Magdalena, which unites itself to that of Mo-
rales near this place.
On the first of February we were in sight of
Vadillo, by six o'clock in the morning, and
at intervals I perceived some isolated cot-
tages. I stopped at several, being desirous of
studying the people who inhabit the borders of
the Magdalena ; and 1 particularly remarked that
they live concentrated in a family, and seem to
shun every other sort of society.
Bogas advanced in years, who, weary
of navigating the river, have become desi-
rous of leaving the fruits of their painful la-
bours to their children, with some enfranchised
REPUBLIC OF COLOxVIBIA. 35
slaves and deserters belonging to all races or
rather to all colours, have established them-
selves upon these unwholesome shores ; but,
though leading such isolated lives, with respect
to one another, they have not entirely renounced
the society of men. Boats and piraguas fre-
quently stop near their dwellings, and pur-
chase the surplus of their crops ; yet, notwith-
standing the vegetable production is very abun-
dant, so many bananas are demanded for a single
dollar, that they cannot procure sufficient to
supply themselves with clothes.
These people are therefore very poor, and
exceedingly unhappy, since out of the ten pla-
gues of Egypt, they have at least five ; — the
putridity of the water — ulcers — reptiles — large
flies — and the death of their eldest born ; in fact,
they rear their children with great difficulty.
If nature, however, has thus poisoned the air
respired by the inhabitant of the banks of the
Magdalena, and tainted the pleasures he tastes,
if she has filled the place in which he lives
with poisonous animals, she has every where
spread around the healing plants of which, he
well knows the use, and which alleviate his evils
if they do not entirely cure them.
The solitary families which people the borders
of this river, are usually composed of the husband,
the wife and two or three children ; it is very rare
indeed that any old people are to be found. Tiie
D 2
36
TRAVELS IN THE
evils wliicli these people suffer in common
with all the mixed breeds between the tropics
shorten the duration of life considerably. The
Arabs, the Indians, and the Negroes, when
they are not obliged to work too hard, are never
ill/
The houses in which these poor creatures
dwell, are formed of reeds and bamboos, and are
generally erected in the midst of some spreading
woods, where they content themselves with clear-
ing a little spot for planting some bananas*,
sugar-canes, cocoa-nut trees, ananas, papayas,
and pinuntas, with some flowers to ornament the
heads of the women.
The wood which surrounds the house, is
not an inextricable labyrinth, for it abounds
in paths, known only to the proprietor.
Through them he pursues those animals, to
their distant retreats, which not long since,
prowled near the site of his dwelling, or
makes his way to his field of maize, which is
always out of the reach of inundations. There
often he fells his piragua, or cuts down the
rafters of his cabin ; and without any other help
than what is afforded by rollers, when his
work is completed conveys it to the banks of
the river.
* The bananas are the manna of the Americans ; when green,
they boil them ; and when ripe, they are a very sweet fruit,
which they roast and eat with much pleasure.
UKPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 37
Twelve fowls compose liis barn-yard, and
he is considered a liappy man, if he can in-
crease this stock, with a cow, or even a pig;
but he seldom possesses the means, and his sole
support is bananas, fish, and sometimes game.
Two or three dogs trained to the chase, with
some cats, devour tlie remains of his frugal
meat. He generally possesses a cylinder, to manu-
facture guarapo, a syrup of fermented sugar,
and a frame for weaving of mats, with some nets,
darts, and shells of the turtle, which at one time
serve for plates, and another for seats ; to this
list of his utensils may be added, a hatchet, a
sabre, some calabashes, and earthen pipkins, and
he is considered as a very careful, provident
man, if his store contains a few pieces of smoke-
dried meat, and a few jars filled with maize.
The life of the inhabitant of the Magdalena,
is not one of inactivity, depending solely upon him-
self, he expects no aid from society, and all must
be provided by his care ; he ought to be simul-
taneously an architect, a hunter, a fisher, and a
clever workman. Sometimes he traverses the
woods in pursuit of the jaguar, which perhaps
has deprived him of one of his dogs, and at other
times, euibarks upon the stream, to pierce
the fish with his darts or enclose them in his
nets. Thus he is never at rest ; nor are these
all his cares, when the overflowing of the
river inundates his plantations, he is seen se-
38 TRAVELS IN THE
curing his piragua to the trees of his garden,
and embarking all his family ; then along those
paths, which a few days before he had been
chasing the deer, he conducts them to his field
of maize, and hastily erects some covering to
protect them from the torrents of rain.
The husband does not always alone support
the burthen of the labours of his family ; his
wife sometimes shares them with him. She works
in the fields, and accompanying her husband
a-fishing, she steers his little bark. Afflicting
wants often discourage the souls of these un-
fortunate beings. The father falls the victim
of long infirmities, the infant, of the evils which
belong to early life, and a raging fever cuts off
the mother of the family ; thus the miseries which
they undergo in procuring a subsistance, are
heightened by the sorrows of final separation.
Unable to live alone, the man allots a few months
to the griefs of widowhood, then descends the
river in his piragua, and presents himself at some
village to offer to some new spouse his many
fatigues and privations, but with them a heart
which is wholly her's.
For many days past the mountains had made
their appearance to the west, and the number
of the caymans visibly diminished : this circum-
stance indicated that the heat was less ardent,
though the temperature was still so great, that
we always halted at noon, and passed some time
REPUBLIC OF COLO.MIUA. ,':J9
under the natural slielters that were I'ornied over
the river by the majestic ceibas, and various
other trees of thick foliage.
Although our piragua was very large, being-
about 48 feet long, we took care whenever
we stopped to draw it up upon the land, and
in that situation took our repose with more
tranquillity. If the left bank of the river had
been less embarrassed with the trunks of trees,
the plantations of bananas which cover it, would
have induced us to coast along it ; but we should
have been exposed to so many dangers, that
we determined keeping upon the right. Amidst
the solitudes of these waters we encountered a
luggage boat laden with soldiers, who were
descending the river to the mournful sound of
an Indian flute. Upon leaving Vadillo, we ar-
rived at the common boundary of the provinces
of Santa- Martha and Cundinaniarca, and a sur-
prising change in the appearance of the country
forced itself upon our attention ; for bananas
and cocoa trees were every where to be seen,
and I experienced an infinite satisfaction, at
finding these traces of the labours of man in places
which seemed exclusively the patrimony of fe-
rocious animals.
At five o'clock, we passed through the Bocca-
Rosario, so they call a part of the river where
it is extremely confined, and consequently flows
with great rapidity. At eight, when we were
40 THAVELS IN THE
established as usual upon our bank of sand, I
said to myself : it is now midnight at Paris and
nearly all my countrymen are also taking* their
repose ; but, fatigued with a thousand varied
pleasures, and feasted with exquisite dainties,
they refresh themselves on beds of down ; vigi-
lant guards insure their safety ; winter and
the industry of man protect them from the my-
riads of insects with which I am devoured; — it
freezes with them, yet they enjoy a comfortable
warmth, while I, but a few degrees from the line,
am almost perished with cold. —
We still continued to struggle against the
current of the river, which increased in rapidity
in proportion as we approached its source ;
this velocity of the stream was also occasioned
by the promontories which, from place to place,
arrested its course : these projections of the land,
were particularly remarkable by the brilliant
colours of the different strata disposed in regu-
lar beds. The day having been passed in great
exertion, we stopped at five o'clock opposite San
Pablo.
In the evening, I ascended the banks of the
river, entered the village and paid a visit to the
alcaid. A field of bananiers, a piragua for
fishing, some dogs for hunting, an indifferent
fowling piece, and two hammocks composed
all his wealth ; a pair of drawers, a linen shirt
and a straw hat all his stock of clothing. He
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 41
Wiilked bare-foot, but nevertheless enjoyed in
the village every imaginable prerogative : for, in
fact, besides the right of hearing and determi-
ning causes, in the same manner as our justices
of the peace, it was his office to regulate the
weights and measures, than which nothing could
be more arbitrary; a parcel of stones, whose value
is perfectly conventional, serves as weights, while
the scales are made of two calabashes often very
unequal.— It is also his duty to levy the taxes
and conscriptions.
Notwithstanding the necessity which we ex-
perienced in this frightful navigation of frequently
bathing on account of the heat occasioned by the
sun, by the bites of the mosquitoes, and the num-
ber of men crowded together in so small a space,
I began to take this exercise with less pleasure
after we got at some distance from Morales. — In-
deed, both the air and the water were extremely
cold, and I experienced a disagreeable sensation
every time I went into the river. — This was not
tlie only change I remarked in these higher parts
of the stream : the sky was so continually covered
with clouds that we seldom got a sight of the
moon. — We no longer experienced those resplen-
dent nights of the tropics in which the light was
almost as brilliant as that of the day. On the
contrary, thesummitsof the high mountains, which
surrounded us, were so envelloped in vapours as to
be entirelv hidden from our view. Thus, in spite of
42 TRAVELS IN THE
the zealous efforts of my bogus we seldom proceed-
ed during- the night, and even in the forenoon the
fogs were frequently so thick, that it was with
difficulty we could distinguish objects at two
boats length from our piragua. On the other
hand, the greater mildness of the temperature,
produced an effect upon the productions of na-
ture, that were by far more agreeable to the eyes
of an European. In fact, the ground was better
covered, and more variegated ; tlie most bril-
liant flowers spread themselves over the banks
of the river, and amidst them the maravilla
formed garlands of the most splendid purple. —
The trees were stronger though less elevated, and
being fixed in the earth by deeper roots, a less
number of trunks impeded the navigation of the
river. I liad above all an opportunity of contem-
plating the lofty summit of Barbacoa ; but the
recollection of the battles fought there by the
Spaniards and the Independents destroyed all its
charm, by reflecting that the pure and limpid
streams which wash its base had been polluted
with blood, and that, in these delicious solitudes
visited once only by men, they met but for mu-
tual destruction.
On the 7th February we saw St. Bartholo-
mew on our right : a bad road leads from this
village to the province of Antioquia ; we were
now soon amid the dark and muddy waters, which
a neighbouring stream brings in tribute to the
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 4^
Magdalena, and whose fetid odour indicates itsun-
healtliy quality. Qiiittin^^ these pestilential waves,
we iiad to double a promontory called Reniolino
Grande ; the waters here precipitate themselves
with a violence dangerous for boats^ which do
not always insure their safety by occasionally
g^rappling to the rocks, branches and roots which
are found along its banks ; passing- all these
dangers in safety, we arrived before night-fall at
Garapata. The inhabitants of this hamlet have
the reputation of being very patriotic. By vir-
tue of this, my bogas were desirous of establish-
ing a system of agrarian law, which did not at
all meet the views of the citizens of Garapata,
who were obliged to be on the alert all night,
and watch the motions of my sailors. The latter
indeed, drawing the inference from tlieir politi-
cal logic, insisted upon being furnished gratis
with fowls, oranges, bananas and even salt.
" Between friends and brothers," said they, " all
should be had in common." The principle was
not admitted. Upon which, changing their sys-
tem, they unknown to me threatened the inhabi-
tants with the whole weight of my indignation,
which with these poor wretches was not an idle
menace, as I had been made to pass for an officer
of the republic. — By this stratagem, my bogas
succeeded in obtaining many necessaries.
We were now to cross the Angustura, a very
dangerous strait. Our first care was to twist two
44 TRAVELS IN THE
or three ropes into one, next to examine the pi-
ragua, and repair the damage it had received near
Garapata, and lastly to take on board fresh poles.
When all was ready we pushed offshore, and in
a short time were at the foot of the Angustura.
This rock is very lofty, and as it projects far into
the river narrows it considerably. It was not
without anxiety we found ourselves in the midst
of the breakers, where our poles only could be
of service to us. The banks of the river are
so steep, that no means of grappling are any
where to be found. When the water is low,
the sailors go with much difficulty and fasten
their rope to some tree at a great distance, and by
this means escape the danger of being carried
away by the impetuosity of the current. There
were formerly at Angustura men stationed to
verify the passports of travellers ; they were at
the same time provided with all that was neces-
sary in case of an accident ; at present nothing of
the kind exists.
The river at the Ang-ustura is very limpid,
but the moment this dangerous strait is passed,
its waters become again yellow and murky. At
a short distance we perceived Nare, to which I
soon ascended. Nare is one of the most impor-
tant villages of Magdalena. Situated at the dis-
tance of five days' journey from Medellin, it has
become the most frequented port of the rich pro-
vince of Antioquia. Couriers, merchants and
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 45
travellers, all stop there, and cause much bustle
and activity. In short it is the entrepot of the
cocoas of Magdalena, for the regions of the western
Cordilleras, the cocoas being here exchanged for
the gold worked in these mountains. The river,
which bears the name of Nare, is a canal very
commodious forthe transport of merchandize into
the interior of the country.
46 TRAVELS IN THR
CHAPTER III.
Branch of the IVIagdalena— The Miel— Rio Negro— Guarumo—Tlie Pro-
montory of Garderiu— The Rocks of Perico—Houda— Description of
the Mag-daleua,
On our departure from Nare, we directed our
course towards the right bank of the river;
and hardly had we entered one of its branches,
which is called the Tiger, than we lost no time
in looking out for some place of shelter ; for the
sky was overcast with clouds, the sure presage
of a storm, and we were anxious to arrive
at some habitation before being overtaken
by the night. Both banks of the river were
thickly covered with trees, and we almost de-
spaired of being able to discover any sandy
bank upon which we might land, when we per-
ceived a cabin upon the right in the midst of the
bushes. Our piragua was quickly pushed towards
this asylum, and displacing a canoe which was
fastened to some reeds, my bogas substituted
ours in its place. As soon as we were securely
moored in this harbour, we all jumped on shore,
armed completely as if going to take some for-
tified place by storm ; and rapidly ascending the
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 47
Steps, which were unequally cut out of the bank of
the river, quickly reached the top.
Before us, in a court-yard surrounded with
bananas, we perceived a sort of shed elevated
upon stakes, on which we found a linen bed
spread upon a bamboo frame; here and there
were a few calabashes ; in one corner were the
remains of a fire, and some slices of meat were
hung up to dry ; the whole was in a state of such
disorder, as plainly indicated the fright that
our appearance had occasioned to the proprietor
of this habitation ; — every thing was open to our
free inspection, for there were neither walls, nor
even mats to form an inclosure to this miserable
cabin.
Our visit had not taken place without
exciting the plaintive bowlings of some dogs
that guarded the house, to which the master
was some time before he paid any attention ;
at last he suddenly came forward from one of
the thickest parts of the wood that surrounded
and shaded his dwelling. He presented himself
before us with an air of anxiety which did not
escape the notice of the pilot of our party, who
took advantage of it to demand some refresh-
ment, which was quickly prepared for him.
Not contented with this civility, he asked our
host, in an arrogant manner, " Are you not
a Spaniard ."" which the other denied in so
feeble a manner, as to increase the audacity of
48 TRAVELS IN THR
the sailor, who thenceforth, in spite of all my
intreaties, left him no peace from his impor-
tunities.
The storm forced us to sup all together
under the roof of our entertainer, whose restless
vigilance was not contented with ohliging his
family to pass the night in the woods, but also
prevented him from taking the least repose. He
remained outside the hut like a centinel to watch
our motions, and to resist, as much as possible,
the violence of my bogas. With how many cares
did this intrusion of ours poison the hitherto
peaceful life of this solitary man ! How little
could he have supposed, that in hiding himself
upon one of the scattered arms of the Magda-
lena, his roof continually exposed to the winds
and storms, would afford shelter to guests
equally as dangerous ! — Such an event would pro-
bably induce him to establish his retreat amidst
the dens of the jaguars, whose repose he, in his
turn, would thus destroy, to afford him some
assurance of his own tranquillity.
Our fatigues commenced the next day, but
we discovered nothing remarkable until five
o'clock, when our attention was taken by a
strong smell of musk. My bogas attributed it
to the odour of a serpent, but none of us were
tempted to examine whether the conjecture was
true : if it could have been done without the
dread of any dangerous encounter, we should
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 49
have been tempted to make some stay in this
phice : it was an isle where the soil, continually
fertilized by the inundations of the river, seemed
to be more fruitful than elsewhere. The ceibas
were more elevated and more majestic, and
in place of guarumos, occupied by myriads of
flies, of which the trunks thus destroyed incum-
bered the navigation, one perceived bowers widely
spread, which seemed to invite the traveller to
repose himself from the heat of the sun. Here
and there we observed with surprise several
trees spread out exactly like a fan or an umbrella,
similar to those which we meet with in ancient
parks ; and thus, tlie playful sport of nature
seemed to be the work of man. It was not how-
ever in this charming place, perfumed with musk,
that my bogas wished to stop, for they gave the
preference to a bank of sand.
Tliis day, tlie 1st of February, we left, on
our right, the river Miel, whose very cold and
clear water invited us to fill several jars with it
for the remainder of the voyage. Its value
seemed to be much more precious, after having
had no other drink than the yellow and muddy
waters of the Magdalena. — At night we entered
Buenavista.
Early in the morning, we passed the mouth of
the Rio Negro, which issues from the moun-
tains of Zipaquira ; we then perceived Guarumo ;
50 TRAVKLS IN THE
on the right hank of the river, in the middle of u
wood of cocoa-trees.
This hamlet seems destined to be much
enlarged, if, as is proposed, the road of Bo-
gota to the Magdalena should be conducted
through it. iNature here becomes more barren,
and the branches of the Cordilleras more con-
tracted ; the river also gets narrower, and is
filled with stones that roll from the tops of the
mountains. The currents are here so rapid, that
their violence is stemmed with great difficulty.
Choaked up between heights covered with
rocks, the Magdalena impetuously pours forth its
waters through the narrow mouths which it has
opened for itself; and if nature did not break
the violence of the shock, by the numerous
angles which are presented by the projecting
arms of the Cordilleras, it would be impossible
to navigate the piraguas in the narrow valley
through which the river runs, and which is but
the declivity of the platform that stretches from
Chaguanes to Neustra Senora de la Purificacion.
The 13th afforded us but few observations ;
before night, however, I was struck with the
singular aspect presented by the Cape of Garderia.
Similar to all those on the banks of the Magdalena,
it is as perpendicular as a vvall, and is composed
of three separate layers of clay, forming angles
of lively and diversified colours. Enemies of
trouble and noise, the caymans usually forsake
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 51
the upper parts of the river ; but we found seve-
ral at the foot of Garderia, whose peaceful
waters accorded better with their habits. Herons,
eg^rets, and other birds, the prey of these amphi-
bious animals, occupy the top of this diversified
hill.
We soon lost view of the Cape of Garderia,
and, from the darkness of the night, of the Cer-
rania of Garapapi. Before noon, we reached
Perico, formed of rocks, against which the water
breaks with a roar, and returns back in waves of
white foam, as on the borders of the sea. Not
being- able to use either the pole or the oar, a
boga cast himself into the water, furnished with
a rope, and, making the shore, fastened it to
the trunk of a tree, that we might be enabled to
tow the boat along. This manoeuvre was badly
executed, for the cord bi-oke, and the piragua
was dashed in the midst of the rocks. The
bogas that were with me, seeing this accident,
plunged into the water, and saved themselves
by swimming ; and, upon arriving ashore, cried
out to me that the canoe was lost, and must
be abandoned. Being unable to swim, I was
obliged to cling to the boat, though it had over-
set, and at every jolt I expected it would have
been broken to pieces ; this, however, was not
the case, and I kept myself above water, which
was happily rather shallow, for a little lower
down I should certainly have been drowned.
i: 2
52 TRAVELS IN THE
All my hopes, the fruit of six months labor
and patience, were in this boat, and I should
have been ruined if the things it contained had
been lost, for I had no one to whom I could
have addressed myself for help in the situation
in which I should have been placed. — Pity is
insensible to shipwrecks in a riv^er, and laughs
at the recital of the dangers there run.
Deafened by the roaring of the waters and
incensed by the cries of my fugitive boatmen,
I leaped into the water which came up to my
chin, and availing myself of an oar which I had
seized at the moment of the accident, used it as
a lever with which I lifted up the boat ; when
the negroes saw me thus employed, they were
surprised at my success, and animated by this
sentiment afforded me their help, and by our
united efforts we got the piragua once more
afloat. I then placed myself in it, and my sailors
swam to the bank, guiding the boat with an oar,
through the middle of the rocks.
As soon as we had arrived in safety ashore,
we emptied the boat, and found she swam lovv
in the water ; many of my effects were lost, and
most of the rest were spoilt, but I was too happy
in having escaped the danger that had menaced
me, to take mucli interest about this loss. I
could not, however, forbear reproaching my
negroes with their cowardly desertion of me:
they were so much ashamed of it, that they could
KKI'UBLK OF COLOMBIA. 53
not answer a word. The sun soon dried the
boat and we all entered it. But before setting out
I took every necessary precaution to prevent a
recurrence of our misfortune. Since the acci-
dent of tlie morning I had obtained such an au-
thority over my men, that I did as I thought pro-
per with them. I arrived without any fresh di-
saster at Honda, two-and-twenty leagues from
Bogota, This town is situated in a confined
valley, surrounded on all sides by mountains ;
the heat is very suffocating. Two bridges must
be crossed before entering it, the last one is
thrown over the Guali, an impetuous torrent
which falls into the Magdalena. These wooden
bridges are boldly constructed upon broken
pieces of rock that serve as piers, and wiiich are
thrown from the mountains by the force of earth-
quakes.
That which Honda experienced about fif-
teen years ago, has left many traces of its rava-
ges. Seveial houses, and even one church are
still in ruins, but there yet remain some regular
edifices. The streets, which are paved, are formed
in a straight line; and the place possesses some
importance, because the boats whicli come from
the maritime provinces stop here, and dispose
of their cargoes that are hence forwaided into tlie
interior of the country. A custom-liouse is esta-
blished here.
I now crossed the other bank of tlie JNI^igda-
54 TRAVELS IN THE
lena to get to the road which leads to the capi-
tal an d congratulated myself in being able, at
last, to bid adieu to my boatmen whom I has-
tened to discharge.
I was hospitably entertained at the dwel-
ling of a custom-house officer, by whose advice
I made a bargain with some muleteers, who had
the charge of a consignment of tobacco, on ac-
count of the government. Our arrangements
were soon completed, and being able to depend
upon having their mules, I proposed availing
myself of the opportunity of pursuing my jour-
ney as early as the following day.
The Magdalen a issues from the lake of Pa-
pas, in latitude l"5'north and longitude 14° west,
and in almost all its course flows along the
same meridian. The Cauca, whose sources are
beyond those of the Magdalena, would offer the
same advantages for navigation as this river,
did not its bed gradually become narrower as it
approaches the place of confluence with the Mag-
dalena; a circumstance which renders the course
of the Cauca in many parts dangerous and im-
practicable. The Magdalena, on the contrary,
becomes wider as it recedes from its source.
Nature seems to have designedly dug the
bed of the Magdalena in the midst of the Cor-
dilleras of Columbia, to form a canal of com-
munication between the mountains and the sea ;
yet, it would have made nothing but an unnavi-
RKPLiBLIC" OF C;OL<>MMIA. 55
g^ciblc toncnt, liiul it not stopped its course in
HKiny parts, by masses of roek disposed in such
a manner as to break its violence. Its waters
tiins arrested, flow gently into the plains of
the provinces of Santa Martha and Cartha-
gena, which they fertilize and refresh by their
evaporation. Three very distinct temperatures
reign on the Magdalena : the sea breezes blow
from its mouth as far as Monpox ; from this town
to Morales not a breath of air tempers the heat
of the atmosphere, and a man would become a
victim to its power, but for the abundant dews
which fall during the night from Morales as far as
the sources of the Magdalena; the south wind
moderates the heat of the day and forms the third
temperature. It is these land breezes whicli cause
the navigation of the Magdalena to be rarely
fatal to Europeans. But though man's exist-
ence is not here in immediate peril, he himself
does not, on the other hand, enjoy a moment's
repose ; along the whole of this river a multi-
tude of insects wage a distressing war against
liim. Mosquitoes near the sea, and up the coast
a small species of fly, cover him with their
venomous stings, and when he enters into a
cooler region, enormous flies called tabanos glut
themselves with his blood.
Should he wish to bathe, he fears being de-
voured by caymans, and if he venture on shore, he
often has to dread the poison of serpents. Nothing
56 TRAVELS IN THE
is therefore more alarming than a voyage on the
Magdalena. Even the sight is rarely gratified,
for the fertile banks of this river, which ought
to be covered with cocoa trees, sugar canes,
coffee, cotton, indigo and tobacco ; those banks
which should present the thirsty traveller with
the delicious fruits of the tropics, and be adorned
with thousands of beauteous flowers, are covered
with thick bushes, bind-weed, and thorns in
the midst of which shoot up the cocoa and
palm trees.
RI5PUULIC OF COLOMBIA. 57
CHAPTER IV.
Route from Honda to Boi^ota — Rio Seco — Vciita Grande — Mountain of
Surjento — Valley of Guaduas — Billeta — Facatativia — Description of
the plain of Bog-ota — Fall of Tequendama — Natural Biidg-c of Pandi.
At an early hour on the 15th of February I took
leave of my obliging host. After traversing a
very thick wood, we kept continually on the
ascent till we arrived at a spot from which a pros-
pect truly magnificent burst upon our view ; the
whole province of Maraquita lay before us, its
mountains appearing from the place where we
stood, but as insignificant hillocs : we could
however distinguish the white houses of Mara-
quita.* Much nearer to us lay the town of
Honda, the walls of which are washed by the
Magdalena, whose verdant banks impart peculiar
beauty to the surrounding landscape. One would
have supposed it to have been the Seine meand-
ring through the rich meadows of Normandy.
This beautiful sight however soon vanished as
I again struck into the wood, through the breaks
of which the Magdalena appeared only a narrow
* Almost all the inhabitants of this town arc afflicted with
goitres.
58 TRAVELS IN THE
Stream of water, which, in a short time, was seen
no more. We once more recommenced our
ascent, and although I could not view without
shuddering- the terrific steepness of the Cordilleras,
which I was traversing for the first time in my
life, my fears were considerably diminislied when
I remarked the intelligence of the mule which
bore me. It was truly astonishing to observe
the sagacity with which the animal chose the
rocks that afforded the surest footing. The mule-
teers have an excellent method of treating these
animals : in these dangerous passes, they strike
them but very seldom, encourage them by their
voice, and support them behind when, climbing
from rock to rock, they appear as if they would
be precipitated every moment into the depths
below. We crossed the Rio Seco, stopped a few
moments at a venta, and continued crossing
numerous streams which intersect the road in
every direction ; at length, we arrived at the
Venta Grande. The inns of the Cordilleras exact-
ly resemble those of Morales ; if nothing is to be
had, you have but little to pay.
The next day, we had to scale the Sarjento,
nor have 1 yet forgotten the labour and fatigue
it cost me. Suddenly enveloped in a cold damp
fog, so thick as to prevent my distinguishing the
men who were before me, we were, for a time,
in complete darkness, and I was seized with
that extreme lassitude and uneasiness, the
REPUBLIC OK COLOMBIA. 59
usual concomitants of this phenomenon so fre-
quent in the Cordilleras. Towards noon the
fog cleared off, and a few moments afterwards,
we met with a stone on which was inscribed,
the elevation of the ground above the level of the
sea. We were at a height of 870 toises, and had
still eighteen leagues to perform before we ar-
rived at Santa-F^. The roads now improved,
and we soon reached the summit of a mountain,
whence we perceived the beautiful valley of
Guaduas.
I was extremely gratified upon descending
to find myself in the midst of verdant meadows,
every where intersected by streams, over which
were thrown narrow but safe bridges. On my
right and left were houses, surrounded by culti-
vation and shaded by willows, while numerous
flocks of well fed cattle were peaceably grazing the
rich pasture; the heat was moderate, being about
the temperature of that of the Island of Madeira.
We were now at an elevation in which man can
enjoy his existence, so that by a descent of not
more than 223 toises, nature assumed an aspect
entirely different to that which we had observed
on the heights we traversed in the morning.
The road being level, and in good order, I
soon arrived at Guaduas. Tliis town appeared
to me very clean, some of its streets are paved
and furnished with trottoirs, the square in which
the church and other edifices stand, is ornamented
60 TRAVELS IN THE
with a fountain, and the outsides of the houses
being whitewashed, the appearance of the town
is very cheerful. It is difficult for the traveller
who has just toiled over the immense mountains
of granite, which separate Guaduas from Magda-
lena, not to feel a degree of ecstasy upon sud-
denly finding himself in a valley, whose tem-
perature is so mild, which is watered by limpid
streams, and enriched with all the gifts of nature ;
gifts which man, however, neglects to improve
or even to avail himself of.
To the European who has recently left the shores
of theMagdalena, the fair complexions of the inha-
bitants of this delightful spot, are particularly pleas-
ing. He cannot but admire the native grace of the
female villagers and the artful simplicity of their
rustic dresses in which, perhaps, there is somewhat
too much of affectation. It cannot be denied,
however, that the American paysannes everywhere
excel ours in the facility with which they acquire
agreeable and fascinating manners ; their delicate
and beautifully turned limbs are never enlarged,
nor deformed by labour. Happy in living under
so beautiful a climate, the inhabitants of Guaduas
treat strangers with great kindness, of which
I had a sufficient proof on my arrival, for they
appeared delighted at having an opportunity of
exercising their hospitality.
Guaduas forms a canton composed of seven
villages, the population of which may amount
RF^ PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. (51
to about fourteen tliousand souls. The ^n-cater
part of the lands belong to Senor Acosta, the
civil judge of the canton, whose hospitality and
benevolent disposition are universal themes of
panegyric. The produce of this country consists
of rice, bananas, coffee, oranges, and sugar, of
the latter article, the yearly crop is said to
amount to 40,000 arrobas. At the distance of
three days' journey from Guaduas is Palma, a
village containing gold, iron, and emerald mines,
which it is intended to work.
The next day, we discovered Billetta, at an
immense distance ; the view of it is very pleasing.
This town suffers much from heat, its elevation
above the sea not being more than 583 toises.
At night, we perceived a cross, the sign of a
venta, situated 908 toises above the level of the
Ocean.
Notwithstanding our anxiety to arrive at
Bogota the next day, we only got as far as
Facatativa, by noon ; but we had now reached
the famous plateau of Bogota. Another spectacle
totally different to any I had before seen now
presented itself to me. I again found myself
in Europe. Upon quitting Facatativa, I suffered
considerably from the dust which the wind raises
in clouds, and which begrimes the complexion
of the inhabitants. I however got free from
it before night, and could indulge at my ease
the pleasure mingled with astonishment which
Crl TRAVELS IN THE
I felt at seeing- the husbandmen occupied in
tracing deep furrows, with ploughs drawn by
oxen, and shepherds driving before them flocks
of sheep covered like those in our country with
thick fleeces. While contemplating a scene,
which so forcibly recalled Europe to my recol-
lection, my attention was called off" by long
files of mules and oxen laden with grain, coals,
and sacks of apples, and others coming from
Guaduas, carrying oranges, and tropical fruits.
The drivers had a wild and savage appearance,
a little opposed to the European character of
the surrounding landscape ; I could even have
imagined myself suddenly removed to the pla-
teaus of Tartary upon seeing these Indians, whose
bodies almost naked, offered many points of
resemblance with the inhabitants of Eastern
Asia.
Above ten French leagues separate Facata-
tiva from Bogota. I was compelled to travel
all night. The cold was very severe, and I suf-
fered considerably from it. I did not arrive at
Bogota till four o'clock in the morning, on the
20th February.
The plain of Bogota, situated in latitude 4*'.
30' north, at an elevation of 1370 toises above the
level of the sea, extends sixteen leagues from
north to south, and eight from east to west.
This plateau, surrounded by lofty mountains,
presents a surface almost uniformly level.
RRPUUF.IC OF COLOMBIA. 63
The plain of Jio^^ota underwent many dread-
lul revolutions, before its inhabitants, the Mos-
cas, subjected to one master, had formed a
nation united by the same worship. Tiie old
men, upon being questioned by the Spaniards,
wlio had conquered their country, informed
them, that, at a very remote period, the river
Funza (Bogota) had overflowed all tlie plain ;
and that, seized with aflViglit, the inhabitants
fled to the mountains, where they found a secure
asylum ; that, in the midst of this friglitful dis-
order, a holy man appeared, whose name was
Zhue, or Bochica ; that, with his wand, he struck
the hardest of the mountains, which immediately
opened, and the waters rushing tlirough the mira-
culous issue, formed the celebrated fall of Te-
quendama. This popular tradition refers to a
period when the waters entirely covered the whole
plain of Bogota. Nothing is now seen in this
place but numerous streams, some ponds, and
two rivers, the Comniun, and the Bogota or
Funza.
It is indeed, in the plain of Bogota, that
the traveller finds that new Europe announced
to him at Honda when overcome with fa-
tigue ; he has no longer cause to fear either the
wild beasts or the insects which desolate the
countries watered by the Magdalena : upon these
heights the cold is fatal to them. But if man
does not run the same dangers here as in the
64 TRAVELS IN' THE
lower region, he sometimes suffers much by
being suddenly transported into a climate, the
temperatute of which rarely exceeds 12<^, R. ; for
the plain of Bogota is rather sobered by a perpe-
tual autumn, than enlivened by the aspect of
spring.
Apple-trees and willows are the only ones
which grow in this plain ; but if the larger vege-
tables droop at this altitude, those of Ceres are in
uncommon abundance, all the lands are covered
with barley, corn, oats, and excellent pastures.
It is a sight truly wonderful, to find a country as
rich and fertile as that of Beauce, at an eleva-
tion which^ in Europe, is covered with perpetual
snows, and where man finds it difficult to exist.
I did not experience the same admiration
as other strangers at the sight of kitchen and
flower gardens in some spots of the plains of Bo-
gota ; for, in fact, if it should create astonish-
ment to find near the equator the vegetables and
fruits of Europe, the colour and the flavour of
these productions prove that the heat of these
cantons is insufficient to bring them to maturity.
The roses and pinks lose likewise all their charm,
when it is known that their perfume cannot be
inlialed for a moment without the organ of scent
snffering violent agony from the stings of myriads
of imperceptible insects lodged in their petals.
Notwithstanding these inconveniences, which
may in time be oliviated by more experienced
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 65
cultivators, it must be confessed, that tlie plain
of Bogota, fioni its elevation, extent, and pro-
digious fecundity, surpasses what the most vivid
imagination can conceive of the beautiful.
At the end of a few days I fell ill, the ge-
neral fate of strangers on their arrival at Bo-
gota. My greatest inconvenience was, not being
able to leave the house ; but my health gra-
dually reestablished itself. The first essay
made of my strength, by training myself for
future journeys, was to visit the fall of Tequen-
dama, which is but four leagues from Bogota,
and which, on account of the wonders related of
it, is visited by all strangers. I, in consequence,
set forward in the month of April, accompanied
by two inhabitants of Bogota. We directed our
course towards the south-west. The road was tole-
rably pleasant as far as Soacha, a village at which
travellers generally pass the night, and in the
neighbourhood of which are found the fossil
remains of elephants. The inn resembles our
country public-houses, which is wonderful in this
country.
The next day, after having coasted the peace-
ful Bogota, we crossed it upon a bridge made of
rushes, on the other side of which we found the
farm of Canoa ; we then commenced an ascent
by a road so slippery, that our horses could no
longer keep their footing.
Till then, we had travelled in a plain partly
66 TRAVELS IN THE
inundated, bounded on all sides by arid moun-
tains, and having barren hills scattered upon
it like islands in the midst of a lake. We were
now traversing a country entirely new, covered
with lofty trees, the sight of which was very
gratifying to us. We were no longer annoyed by
the gloomy prospect of the black rocks sur-
rounding the plain of Bogota ; on the contrary,
on every side were seen vallies, fertile mountains,
and little houses embedded in the midst of plan-
tations of bananas, whose verdure, softer to the
eye, relieved in the most agreeable manner the
deeper green of the forests.
In the midst of the pleasure afforded us
by this view, we saw with anxiety the summits
of the mountains hid in the clouds, which were
rapidly descending towards the places where
they are converted into storm and rain. We
therefore urged on our horses.
In striking into the marshy woods, which
over-shadow the famous fall of Tequendama,
our horses became useless to us, and were fast-
ened to trees. With the assistance of sticks,
we descended the muddy paths by which the
wood-cutters make their oxen drag up the wood
which they sell in the town. The noise of the
fall was heard, but nothing could be seen. After
many windings and turnings, we at length found
we had lost our way ; not a soul was to be seen
who could set us right. At length, one of us
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 67
fortunately perceived a path, the steep descent of
which was rendered more practicable by steps
made with branches. This rough piece of work-
manship led him to hope that men were to
be met with. lie descended, but at first dis-
covered nothing but a stream and a cavern. He
was about to re-ascend, when, to his great sur-
prise, he saw a man appear at the entrance of
the cavern, who offered to serve as our guide,
upon learning our embarrassment. The cavern
was a mine dug under the rocks at a great ex-
pense, where a few pounds of pit-coal was daily
obtained with vast labour. There was only a
narrow passage excavated, and no attempt had
been made to blast the rock.
We were farther from the fall than we had
imagined, and, at the risk of sinking a hundred
times in the mud, we arrived before Tequen-
dama. Never did I experience such sensations
as those caused me by the view of this cascade. I
was at first so dazzled, that I could scarcely see
the objects around me. I was wrapt in mute
admiration at seeing the waters of the Bogota
precipitate themselves in mass, over the rocks
which they have crushed, like an avalanche de-
tached from the top of Chimborazo. In order to
observe the fall the more safely *, we laid our-
* Bolivar stood upright upon one of the rocks which bar
the iSsues of the river.
k2
68 TRAVELS IN THE
selves down flat upon the rocky wall, forming the
side of the precipice above which we were placed.
Our eyes penetrated into the abyss without
perceiving aught but waves of foam continually
swallowed up in an ocean of vapour. We were
in astonishment, and yet only perceived one part
of this imposing spectacle, on account of the pro-
found obscurity in which the haze enveloped us.
We anxiously wished for a clearer sky. The
Avaters of the river falling from the frozen heights
of the Cordilleras into the foaming gulfs, hol-
lowed out at their base, formed a thick fog,
which, raised up by the sun, whose face it ob-
scured, inundated us on all sides.
We waited with impatience for the moment
when we could admire this wonder of nature,
which we had come so far to contemplate : it
suddenly discovered itself, but only for a few
instants. The clouds at length dissipating, we
were enabled to take a rapid view of the pheno-
menon of the fall. Measuring first the heights
above us *, we saw, amid the palm-trees which
cover that region, a rivulet (the Bogota) mean-
dering through a region glowing with verdure,
inhabited doubtless by animals of the torrid
zone. Above these blooming fields, a projecting
rock, against which the Bogota dashed itself,
tiirew up tlie river's foaming waves on high,
* Seventy-eight toises in height, according- to Salazar.
KKPUKLIC OF COLOMBIA. GO
like two crystal columns completely detached
from the vapours, which they continually pro-
duce. The view in front of us was not less
imposing- : along the g-ig-antic mountains forming-
the opposite shore, several streams fell in cas-
cades, which, at the distance we were from them,
appeared to us like plates of silver. Soon all
was shrouded in darkness, the sun withdrew
itself, and the rain fell in torrents. We were
compelled, much against our inclination, to quit
this magnificent spectacle, and to return to Bo-
gota, lest night should surprise us amid these
inundated forests.
My expedition to Tequendama had raised in
me a wish to visit the other wonders of the coun-
try, so classically described by M. de ihimboldt*.
I was naturally desirous of seeing the bridge of
Pandi ; for which purpose, providing myself with
a guide, I again left Bogota towards the end of
April, shaping my course towards the south-
east.
I first traversed Fusagasuga, situated at an
elevation of 940 toises, and consequently far
lower than the plateau of Bogota, by which
the village has the advantage of a milder
temperature and a greater variety of harvests.
I left upon the right Chocho, a village which takes
its name from a tree very common in all these
♦ Vue des Cordilleres.
70 TRAVELS IN THE
parts. I climbed the Alto de Honda, and after
much fatigue and difficulty, arrived at the end
of two days at Mercadillo, after having traversed
a country almost desert ; I every where found a
heat of from 18° to 20% R.
Mercadillo was founded a few years since,
for the purpose of attracting there the Indians of
Coundaie, who live in the neighbourhood. These
men, half savages, are too fond of their indepen-
dance, and not sufficiently so of the whites to be
induced to increase the population of Mercadillo.
Quitting this hamlet, I found myself within the
Indian territory of Coundaie : the lands are all
uncultivated ; it is with difficulty that bananas,
sugar canes, and a few indigenous fruit trees
are here and there to be seen. The goats and
cows, which are met wandering about this wild
country, belong to the inhabitants of Mercadillo ;
who not less careless than the Coundaien In-
dians, let their cattle devour and destroy the
vanilla, which grows here in immense quan-
tities.
One hour sufficed for us to arrive at the na-
tural bridge of Pandi. It is formed of a stone
not more than twenty feet wide ; placing myself
upon it, I cast my eyes down into the opening
which separates the two mountains, and which
is in depth about 363 feet. I perceived a stream
of water, which, at the elevation where I stood.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 71
Jippearcd to me a rivulet. Tlie shortest distiuice
however must be traversed in a piragua. Among
the enormous stones whicli, in rolling from the
summits of the mountains, have been stopped in
the immense gap, that which formed tlie bridge,
less attracted my admiration, than one of prodi-
gious size which is beneath it, and which, like
the key stone of an arch, is suspended in the air,
and seems every moment threatening to fall with
hideous ruin.
The inhabitants of the country believe these
frightful gulphs to be the entrances to hell. And
indeed the continual night which reigns there,
the birds of darkness whose mournful cries re-
echo in the caverns which serve as their re-
treat during the day, the murky waters which
fill the depths of this precipice, the thick foliage
of the trees which partly conceal this place of
mystery, the noisy turbulence of the waters, the
rocks, which, like the bridge of the Persian my-
thology, serve to cross them, and lastly the
darkness whicli shrouds all these horrors, con-
vey no feeble idea of the empire of death. The
illusion is the stronger from the greater part of
living creatures avoiding the savage spot ; the
habitations of man are far removed from it,
and all animals seem to dread the fearful
noises which are there heard. Thus the tra-
veller experiences much satisfaction uponeinerg-
72 TRAVELS IN THE
ing from these antique forests, imbrued perhaps
by the Indian priests with the blood of human
victims, to find again the chearful light of day,
and prospects less sad and gloomy.
I re-ascended toward Mercadillo, not less
astonished than I had been at Tequendama, al-
though the bridge of Pandi had appeared to me
less striking than the fall. This work proves the
mighty powers of nature ; to estabhsh a bridge
of communication, it sufficed for her to roll down
a few rocks from the heights of the mountains.
Approaching the summits of the mountains
which command Mercadillo, and whence may
be perceived the Llanos* deLimone extending as
far as the Magdalena, we soon traversed primi-
tive forests peopled by the bear, the jaguar and
the congouar, and by nightfall were in Fusaga-
suga. In proportion as we removed from the
burning valley of Mercadillo, we found a race of
men more handsome and vigorous.
On the morning of the next day, I returned
to Bogota. Till six o'clock we had travelled in
the midst of fields of mace, sugar canes, coffee
and chirimoya (Annona) : at nine o'clock I found
myself within the shade of the Kinas, and sur-
rounded with fogs ; at eleven, in the barren
furzes of the mountain summits, and almost
♦The Llanos are plains, many of which form the tract of
country called Llanura. — Translator.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 73
drowned with incessant rains ; at three, I des-
cended the declivities, amid fine countries covered
with barley, and excellent pastures, and re-
freshed by a breeze which, towards evening, was
cold. At length, after having passed from the
fertile coasts, bordering the plateau on the south,
into the regions sometimes inundated and some-
times parched, which adjoin the capital, and
which are only to be traversed with the assistance
of bridges of stones, we entered Bogota at mid-
night.
74 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER V.
Journey into the province of Socorro, situated to the north of Santa-FS de
Bogota.
Scarcely had I returned from one journey than
I was anxious to undertake another, and So-
corro, rich in industry and population, appeared
to present the greatest interest. In the month of
June, therefore, I procured two mules, engaged
an intelligent guide, and set out for the valley
of Tenza, which is to the north north-east of
Bogota : by following this course, I could exa-
mine the plain of Bogota in its greatest extent.
We took the royal road : the ground per-
fectly level facilitated the construction of a high-
way similar to those in Europe. In many parts
are seen farms of a very handsome appearance,
covered with tiles and furnished with panes of
glass to their windows. All these farms are
carefully inclosed with stone walls. I crossed
the plain at the time when the corn was green ;
it promised abundantly for the harvest which
was to take place in two months afterwards.
The bridge, constructed over the Commun, is
of stones ; this work of the Spaniards is not
without merit, it is moreover exceedingly useful
REPUBLIC OF COLOMUIA. 75
for the communications of Bogota with the salt
mines of Zipaquira. The Commun discharges
itself into the Bogota. When the plain is
more inhabited and better cultivated, this river
will be very commodious for commerce and the
different relations of the country ; not a ca-
noe is at present to be seen on it. The night
came on, and as a short time before an alcaid
had been assassinated near the place where we
were, I stopped at a farm.
The next day I passed through a number
of small villages, situated on the road to Tunja.
In general, they are only inliabited by Indians,
who live by twisting cotton, or manufacturing-
pottery ware. The cabins of these poor people
are extremely small, and some of them are
round as they all were previous to the conquest.
It is not without surprise that, in the middle
of these wretclied huts, the house of the curate
is seen from afar, raising its proud head like a
castle. Indeed the balconies, the glazed win-
dows, the tiles with which the presbytery is or-
namented, impart to it an air of magnificence
which creates astonishment when compared with
the wretchedness of the hovels by which it is sur-
rounded.
Towards noon, quitting the plain, in which
our route hitherto lay, I approached the gra-
nite mountains commanding it. Sesquila the
last village of the plain of Bogota, on this side, is
situated at a short distance from tlie lake of Gua-
76 TRAVELS IN THE
tavita. I found the air very sharp upon the Para-
mo de Chocotan, the wind blowing- there with as
much violence as on the sea-shore. Avery small
but cold rain, froze our faces and hands. The
soil of Chocotan is of a very dark colour ; the land
is undulating like that of downs, and the grass
is so fine, that the foot-steps of the traveller, are
effaced almost as quickly as in the sands of an
African desert.
It is in these wild places that the hunter re-
pairs to pursue the animals which, envelopped
in perpetual mists, think themselves safe from
the shafts of man. The bear is here remark-
able for his strength and courage, and the inha-
bitants are continually at war with him. Mounted
upon horses and armed with a lance, they attack
and are often victorious ; these feats are how-
ever many times attended with danger. It is
indeed very interesting when on the top of an
elevation so prodigious, to hear the cries of the
hunters, the barking of the dogs, and all the
cheerful tumult of the chace suddenly succeed
to the hollow roaring of the winds ; it is impos-
sible to see without astonishment horsemen gal-
lopping fearless along the rugged tops of moun-
tains, crossing torrents, bounding over precipices,
scaling rocks, and at length reaching with their
spears the animal worn out with the fatigue of
flight.
Upon descending the Paramo de Chocotan,
I met with an isolated hut built at a short dis-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 77
tance from a petmleuni (petrote) mine, be-
longing- to the catliedral of Santa-F^. Here
I passed the night. Although the sowing was
over, they were working in the fields with great
activity. Furnished with a hoe fixed at the
end of a long handle, the jnons, so the day
labourers are called, were occupied in hoeing
the land. These labourers, whose task com-
mences with the day and finishes at night, re-
ceive one real, and two rations of masamora
(boiled rice) per day. Tliose employed upon the
coast are paid double, and have daily a pound
of meat. It is true that the fatigue is much
greater on the burning coasts of the sea than
in the Cordilleras. The labours of agricul-
ture are much less severe for him who works
under a temperature of 12" to 15° than for
him who groans under the weight of 25 to
30% R.
I coasted the Machetan, the banks of which
are very rugged ; its source is in the Paramo,
which we had traversed the preceding evening.
ITiis torrent runs through a rich valley ; and
on arriving near Somondocon, takes the name
of that village, and runs eastward into the
Llanos. The road was dreadful which made
me admire the hardiness of some women, who
travelled on horseback in company with us,
carrying their infants in their arms. Spite of
the dangers which every instant threatened
them, they laughed and sang with as much
78 TRAVELS IN THE
gaiety and unconcern as if they had been in
the best carriage and on the best roads in
France. We arrived all together at Tiribita,
in the rivulets of which are found many ferru-
ginous pyrites ; we afterwards reached Guatake :
these two villages are built upon territory called
Indian.
The Indians are loudly accused of regret-
ting the ancient regime : that may be the case,
since formerly they allowed no white to settle
among them, while in the present day, they see
their territory invaded by all sorts of avari-
cious men. This forced union keeps up among
the inhabitants of these villages, a violent anti-
pathy, and an inveterate animosity.
I crossed the river a little beyond Guatake,
and began to climb up the opposite bank on
which Somondocon is built. The temperature
was here milder, and the whole face of nature
appeared to me richer and more varied than
I had observed it in coming from Machetan. In
fact, on all sides were plantations of the sugar
cane, mace, and yucca,'**' inclosed by willow
hedges; cotton trees and cactus, round which
were twined thousands of the bind-weed family
loaded with flowers of the most brilliant hues.
The mountain, at the base of which Somondocon
is situated, presented a very curious sight ; one
* The Tatropha Manihot. The root of this plant is made
into a sort of cakes, and is almost the only bread used in Ame-
rica.— TraHi/rt^or.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 79
might have imagined it to be formed entirely
of crystal ; this eflfect was produced by numerous
torrents falling vertically amid the thick forests,
fringing its declivities. Even at the distance
where I stood, the noise of these cateracts was
tremendous.
Somondocon is so poor a village, that no
one could afford me hospitality. I thought that
the parsonage would certainly grant me an
asylum ; I was however deceived in my conjec-
ture. Francisco Antonio Dias, for that was
the curate's name, declared that he had already
strangers in his house, and refused to receive me ;
not a soul however was there. My embarrass-
ment was most distressing. One woman alone
took compassion on my unfortunate situation,
I perceived it, and laid claim to her kindness.
But the opinion, and especially the anger of
the curate, delayed her consent ; at length I
obtained it, and received in her humble cabin
attentions I should, with difficulty, have found
elsewhere. The slight difference in civilization,
which distinguishes tlie part of America I was
now in, from the regions of Africa, which I had
traversed four years before, produces none what-
ever in the affectionate sympathy of females for
the suffering traveller ; he has never to fear
appealing in vain to the tenderness of a woman.
I had often heard of tlie richness of the
emerald mines, which the Indians had former-
80 TRAVELS IN THE
ly worked in this neighbourhood ; and had a
great wish to discover the traces of them. I
questioned many people very particularly, but
the only result of my enquiries, was a faint hope
of being able to make some discoveries in a
neighbouring mountain, which I was recom-
mended to visit. This advice pleasing me, I was
preparing for my departure on the next day,
when tlie alcade of Somondocon, followed by a
dozen of his attendants, came into my room, and
presenting me a letter, desired 1 would read it.
Fixing his eyes upon my face, he endeavoured
to discover the uneasiness which the reading
of the letter might cause me. It was not of a
nature to give me any. The civil judge at Gua-
take, had given instructions to the alcaid to
watch my motions with the utmost vigilance,
it being supposed my intention to pass from
the high country into the Llanos. He also ex-
pressly ordered him to demand my passport,
which I immediately put into his hands ; the
alguazils of the curate, for it was by his order
this trick was played me, instantly retired covered
with confusion.
This adventure did not deter me from my
design, and accompanied by a steady guide,
I proceeded in an easterly direction, towards
the mountain supposed to contain emeralds ;
from its summit the Llanos are discovered ; but
so difficult was the road, that I did not reach
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 81
till after three hours of painful toil. I was well
recompensed howevei* for my fatigues by the
magnificent view which suddenly burst upon my
sight. On the east was seen an extensive and
deep valley intersected by the Majoma, from
which it derives its name ; at a still greater dis-
tance and considerably lower, though in the
same direction, a dark and thick cloud was per-
ceptible behind some mountains of small eleva-
tion ; it was the Llanos de San Martin, situated
at about two or three days' journey. But for
my guide, I should never have been able to have
recognised it as land, by indications, which, from
a singular coincidence, are the same as those
which announce the proximity of land at sea.
Turning towards the west, the rich and beautiful
valley Avatered by the Somondocon, presents it-
self, with the villages, the dazzling whiteness of
whose houses forms an agreeable contrast with the
green verdure of the surrounding country. So-
mondocon, hidden in the gigantic shadows of the
mountains, was concealed from my view; but
I distinguished Manta, Guatake, Suta, and
numerous isolated huts shaded bv bananas.
Though I could not see either men or cattle,
I could ascertain the spot where they were, from
their cries, which, rising with the vapours from
the plain, resounded in my ears. This effect is
not of rare occurrence in the mountains, men
frequently here converse together at distances
G
82 TRAVELS IN TjHK
whicli tlie voice could never traverse in flat
countries. My search after emeralds was fruit-
less : in vain did I examine the sand of the rivu-
lets and the schist of which the mountain is
composed, nothing could be found ; I therefore
descended from these cold regions to enter a
warmer and less barren country. Our excur-
sion would have been unattended with any ac-
cident, had not my guide's dog, almost famished
with the fasts he had so long endured, rushed
upon a flock of sheep ; and spite of the cries, the
threats and blows of his master, tore one of them
in pieces. These ravages happen very frequent-
ly ; the dogs often even unite in bands to at-
tack horses and cows ; but this is onlv the case
when carrion fails them. To discover this they
watch the gallinazos (vultur aura), and when
they see them assembling in one spot, guessing
it is some prey which attracts them, they run
thither, and after driving away those voracious
birds, supply their place.
I expected to have found my passport at
Somondocon, which had been forwarded the even-
ing before to the civil j udgc of Guatake : I waited
for it in vain till noon, when, becoming impatient
at this delay, I set forward on my return to
Guatake. Having demanded my passport from
the alcaids, complaining at the same time of
their want of dispatch, they feebly excused them-
selves, but soon made me forget these disa-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBJA. 83
greeables, by ofFerinjo- me their house to pass the
ni^-ht in. Upon my declining their offer, from
my desire of arriving quickly at Suta, they
dispatched, unknown to me, an express, willi in-
structicms to tlie commandant of Suta, to treat
me with great respect ; their orders were punc-
tually obeyed, this officer shewing me the utmost
kindness and attention.
At Suta, to my great surprise, I received a
visit from the son of a French doctor, who had
died in this country several years since ; his name
was Courtois, he had however turned it into
Spanish, by making it Cortes : it was impossi-
ble to witness, without compassion, the deplora-
ble state of poverty to which the son of a
countryman was reduced ; almost entirely naked,
he could only be distinguished from the most
wretched of the inhabitants, by his face, the
features of which had not been debased by mise-
ry. My host at Suta wished me to make a tlu'ee-
days' stay with him : but I forced myself away
from his kindness ; and, on the 20th of June,
directed mv course to the north north-east towards
Tenza. I only passed through this village, and
did not enter Guachabita till night had closed
in.
Here terminates the valley of Tenza, which
is dependent on the province of Tunja. Few
diseases are found here ; no one is afflicted with
goitres. A great number of streams cross the
G 2
84 TRAVELS IN THE
valley of Tenza in every direction, giving rise
to several rivers, which all discharge their waters
into the Somondocon : the latter, after having
described various sinuosities, forms a confluence
with the Meta. The banks of the Somondocon
are full of salt-springs, which the inhabitants use
instead of the salt of Zipaquira.
The country is rather elevated ; the soil is a
fat earth, but so much softened by the rains, as
to render the roads impassable. The inhabitants,
however, complain but little of this temporary
inconvenience, when they see the riches of their
harvests. Here man answers to the voice of
nature ; every thing is assiduously cultivated :
bananas, sugar-canes, mace, yucca, all thrive
in wonderful abundance. But notwithstanding
so many invaluable benefits, man is poor ; en-
riched by nature, society ruins him by the vi-
cious system of the imposts it exacts from him.
In vain do his plantations flourish, in vain are his
granaries filled, the inhabitants of Tenza groan
amid misery the most wretched ; and, as upon
the Magdalena, the poor are seen seated at the
foot of abundance itself. One cannot enter a
house, nor a street, without meeting crowds of
beggars ; in the villages, in the country, in fact,
every where are persons asking alms. How can
one refuse to grant assistance to infirmities or
old age !
The charm imparted to this spot by the
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 85
beauty of the surrounding scenery, and by tlie
mild temperature, wliich, during the fine season,
lasts from Septeml)er to March, is totally de-
stroyed by these objects of misery and wretched-
ness. At the time of my journey, the country was
inundated by the continual rains. Deceived by
the drought which had succeeded the storms in
the plain of Santa-F^, whose climate is totally
different from that of the other parts of the Cor-
dilleras, upon descending into the valley of Ten-
za, I had expected to find the same tempera-
ture. I was, however, completely deceived ;
every place here has a different sky, temperature,
and seasons, arising from the difference of ele-
vation.
The temperature is generally from 15" to 16",
and the climate being very healthy, the number of
old people is, therefore, very considerable ; many
liave even reached their hundredth year. I was
shown a tree, which some children had thrown
across a torrent, to enable their mother, who was
above a hundred and fifteen years old, to go a
nearer way to church, whither she went several
times a-week, although it was situated very far
from her hut, and the road to it very steep and
dangerous. As the valley of Tenza is to the east
of the immense summit of the Cordilleras, it
follows the variations of the climate of the
Manos, so that the spring blooms, and the
rains fall there at the same time as in the plains.
86 TRAVELS IN THE
and consequently the season for sowing is not the
same as on the mountains of Bogota. The va-
rious stages of cultivation, and their accompany-
ing labours, may therefore be seen on the same
day. On the elevated parts, sowing takes place
in March ; towards the middle of the mountain,
in May ; and in the valley beneath, in July.
But such is the force of vegetation in the latter
place, that all arrives there at maturity before
the inhabitants of the summit can form any
idea of the produce of their harvest.
Upon quitting Pachabita, we quickly reached
Volador, a mountain of but trifling elevation.
We then entered the region of the cold country.
On these mountains man appeared to me as
different as the vegetable tribe. To the gaiety
which reigns throughout the valley of Tenza,
had succeeded the deepest gloom and sadness.
Upon entering the hamlet of Umbita, I was
struck with seeing a man fastened to a stake, by
order of the curate ; a short time after, I saw
another smarting under the cane of a militia
Serjeant. — What rapid changes ! In the valley,
at every step, I admired nature's holiday cele-
brated by poverty and wretchedness ; here I saw
man as miserable as the earth he inhabited.
The reflections, suggested by the sight of so
much misery, added to a temperature of from 8°
to 10° only, made me pass a very uncomfortable
night. Being ready to set off* before day-break.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 87
I once more entered the Paramos,* where I again
found fine weather, whicli was wafted hither
by the same easterly winds that inundate the
valley of Tenza. I left Turmeque on the south,
and before noon arrived at Tiribi. Every thing
here presented a new aspect ; instead of ba-
nanas and sugar-canes, I found corn and pota-
toe-lields. The soil, without being as fertile as
that of Tenza, appeared fruitful, and in more
industrious hands, susceptible of improvement.
The country was rather more woody, and flocks,
covered with thick fleeces, were grazing in the
meadows. Man, however, still appeared to be a
suft'erer, and the salutation with which I was wel-
comed, that of Master, indicated the state of
slavery to which these people had been re-
duced for so many ages.
I had just made myself comfortable at
Tiribi, in a hut, the use of which had been
granted me, when I was disturbed by the en-
trance of a tall stout man ; it was the curate.
After the usual compliments, he requested I
would lend him my watch ; I presented it to
him. He then begged 1 would make him a
present of it; and, upon my refusal, desired I
would give him my sabre ; and upon again re-
ceiving a denial, he retired, inviting me in no
very gracious terms to pay him a visit.
* The Paramo is a very high part of tlie Cordillera, con-
stantly covered with snow, where it is always extremely cold. —
Translator.
88 TRAVELS IN THE
Shortly after quitting Tiribi, I traversed the
field of battle of Boyaca ; where, in 1809, the
Spaniards were defeated by the patriots. The
same nig-ht I entered Tunja, and was hospitably
received by the curate ; he is one of those whose
attentions have had most claim to my grateful
remembrance.
Tunja, before the arrival of the victorious
Spaniards in these parts, was already a consider-
able town, and as important in Cundinamarca as
Cusco in Peru. Quesada obtained possession of
it by the same means as Pizarro and Cortes had
found so successful : he put the king of Tunja to
death. The riches he found amid the spoils of that
prince, the sight of which made the Spaniards ex-
claim, " We also have found a Peru ;" enabled
him to build a new town, which was for a long
time the rival of Bogota, the whole of the nobi-
lity of the country having retired thither : it
is now nothing but a desert.
Tunja possesses no recommendations what-
ever : neither inhabitants, mildness of tempera-
ture, nor water, either plentiful or healthy, are
to be found. The people are afflicted with goitres,
the sky is seldom without clouds, and the climate
is very cold ; in short, almost all the houses are
in ruins. A very interesting phenomenon, how-
ever, attracts the curious thither, and consti-
tutes the delight of the inhabitants. To the
north-west of Tunja, and at a short distance^
are some springs of water^ warm enough during
REPUBLIC OF COLOMTUA. 89
the night to be used for bathing- ; in the day-time
they are very cold. This luxury, which is con-
sequently only to be obtained after sun-set, is
rendered the more agreeable by the basin which
has been formed for the better enjoyment of that
pleasure ; it is the only one that Tunja possesses.
This town is the chief place of a province
of considerable extent, but which is in general
very barren. Were it warmer, one might often
suppose one's self in the midst of an African
desert. The ground is covered with rocks, and
furrowed by the waters, which form frightful
chasms in different places ; but as these soon
evaporate, the country is in great want of water.
This province is notwithstanding one of the
richest, its inhabitants are active and indus-
trious, and considerable quantities of woollen
and cotton stuffs are there manufactured. Al-
though very coarse, these productions are in re-
quest throughout the republic, and their sale
considerably enriches Tunja.
The greater proportion of the lands lie fal-
low ; they would, however, produce considera-
ble crops, if the inhabitants were less indiffe-
rent. No encouragement can rouse them from
their indolent habits and usual routine. Tliis
was proved at Leyva, where an attempt was
made to cultivate the olive. Barley, oats, and
wheat, are sown witli success throughout tlie
country. There are few parts of the province
90 TRAVELS IN THE
where any thing else could be produced on
account of the cold. Rice, sugar, and coffee,
are obtained from Muzo.
It took me a whole day to go from Tunja
to Paipa, whence I directed my course to the
south south-east to reach a farm, the income
from which is very considerable, owing to the
peculiar bounty of nature. The meadow, in the
midst of which this farm is built, and which is
nearly half a league in extent, contains several
springs of Avarm sulphureous water, the tempe-
rature being about 49°, R. In the dry season,
the vapours are condensed, and cover all the pas-
tures with sulphate of soda. This salt is very
carefully collected, and afterwards given to the
cattle, who are wonderfully improved by it in
the course of six months. By means of this
advantage, the proprietor of the estate purchases
in the Llanos of Sau Martin, cattle at the rate of
five piastres a piece, which he afterwards sells for
twenty-five or thirty. This fine estate belongs to
the Jesuits. A sulphur mine is in its neighbour-
hood.
We afterwards proceeded towards tlie south
south-cast, and continuing to traverse uncul-
tivated and uninhabited countries, descended
into the plain of Sogamoso. In tlie course of an
hour we arrived at Issa, a village situated to the
east. We witnessed a singular sight on our arri-
val, that of a fete, consisting of songs and dances,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 91
to celebrate the death of a child ; a strange cus-
tom to rejoice at a loss which every where else
costs so many tears, and so much sorrow. Upon
coming to Issa, I had promised myself to visit
the lake of Tota, situated higlier up, but in the
same direction ; I therefore quitted Issa before
sun-rise, and, accompanied by a fresh guide,
scaled the rugged heights upon which the paramo
Ramona is situated. Here the cold was very
severe. At eiglit o'clock, I was on the borders of
the lake, which is very large, since the tour of it
is made with difficulty in a day. Superstition has
not failed to people this spot with friglitful pro-
digies ; in fact, the savage nature of the country,
the waters suspended at such an immense height,
and always agitated by the winds blowing off the
Toxillo, (a paramo which raises itself above the
lake Tota) a mucilaginous substance of an oval
form, and filled with an insipid water, which is
found on the sands — all inspires astonishment.
According to the inhabitants, the waters of this
lake are not navigable ; in its depths malignant
genii are said to inhabit dwellings, whose por-
ticoes maybe perceived on leaving tlie shores, and
proceeding some distance in the stream ; it is
even added, that, at intervals, a monstrous fish
is seen to rise from the abyss and shows itself for
a few moments.
The lake of Tota is in the form of an arc,
the two ends of which extend in a direction
92 TRAVELS IN THE
from tlie north-west to the south-east ; the tem-
perature is very damp and cold ; the water of
a blueish colour is heavy, insipid and scarcely
drinkable ; like that of the sea, it is in con-
tinual agitation, caused by the tempests so
common to the Toxillo. Some isles rise from
the bosom of the lake ; but on these, one man
alone has dared to set his foot ; the idea that
the lake is enchanted, prevents them being- revi-
sited : the bottom appears composed of silicious
sand. The mountains which enclose the lake of
Tota are immense walls composed of basaltic and
granite rocks, so strongly cemented as to resist
all filtration ; it may however be conjectured that
the warm springs of Issa and Paipa owe their
origin to this immense basin placed so many toises
above their level. Some desolate huts, the sport
of the winds, are scattered along the prodigious-
ly high and rugged sides of this lake of the
Cordilleras. Near this lake is the village of Gui-
tiva, which I traversed on my return to Issa, the
road we took was full of capopals loaded with the
cochineal insects ; and what is not less interesting
to the inhabitants, affording a great quantity
of flints. In proportion as I removed from these
heights, I found the temperature more supporta-
ble. Having arrived in the beautiful plain of
Sogamoso, I soon distinguished the village amid
the willows which shade it ; I stopped till the
next day, in this place so renowned before the
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 93
conquest, for tlie worsliip paid to the sun ; the
temple which was theie, being according to some
liistorians, of unequalled magnificence ; no traces
of its past grandeur are now perceptible. A con-
siderable cattle trade is carried on at Sogamoso ;
the animals are brought from the Llanos by the
Toxillo. Cotton, stuffs, and woollen hats manu-
factured at Somagoso, are forwarded to those
plains in exchange for the cotton, indigo and salt,
also drawn from thence. Notwithstanding the
profits of this trade, it is much neglected on ac-
count of the bad state of the roads and the dangers
presented by the paramo. A great number of the
inhabitants of the Cordillera perish in the plain,
or are soon attacked by fever, on account of the
quantity of animal food which they eat ; the in-
habitants of the plains run less risk, it might be
supposed that they would not be able to endure
the cold of the more elevated regions ; they how-
ever brave it in their light cotton garments, and
are very seldom attacked with sickness.
Upon quitting Sogamoso, I turned to the
north-west, in order to visit a lead mine which is
being worked in the neighbourhood ; it was ne-
cessarv to cross the Rio-Grande, the ford of which
was pointed out to me by a man on horseback ;
after ascending gradually for a short time, I de-
scended into the plain of Tibasosa. This vil-
lage is situated on the other side of the river
which waters the vallies of Sogamoso, and Ti-
basosa ; almost opposite the latter is the lead mine
94 TRAVELS IN THE
of Sog"amoso, eight men were at work there ;
they informed me they had entered into a partner-
ship, for the working this mine, and that it
afforded but little profit since the water had
stopped up the principal gallery, which had been
open for more than a century ; they contented
themselves with washing the mineral ; but being
frequently in want of water, they could not
obtain by this rough process, more than an arroba
of lead per week, producing about 30 francs.*
The hardness of the rock, the encroachments
of the water, and especially the want of necessary
implements, prevent further profits, notwithstand-
ing the mine is rich and abundant.
At a short distance from this place is a cop-
per foundery, the metal is brought from Moni-
quira; the articles manufactured at this wretched
forge are not destitute of taste, and consist gene-
rally of stirrups and bells.
I resumed my journey towards the north,
in the midst of mountains formed of purple and
violet coloured clay : it was night when I en-
tered Santa Rosa. Hospitality is every where
exercised with so much generosity, that I thought,
notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, I should
find no difficulty in getting a lodging ; but I was
deceived, every door was closed against me. I
knocked at those ofthealcaidsandthe civil judge;
but they refused opening them, under pretext
that their masters were absent ; the curate to
* About 22 shillings Eiig-lisli.
URPUIiLIC OF COLOMBIA. 95
whom I applied as a last resource, did not mani-
fest more charity than his neighbours. It was
late, my cloaths were wet through, I had not
eaten all day, and found myself obliged to lie
in the street; I was indeed in much distress ;
all were deaf to my prayers, one only, and that,
for the second time, a woman took compassion
on me and offered me half her cabin ; I joyfully
shared it ; and although it was difficult to sleep
amid the pots of chicha* and heaps of onions,
with which it was stored, I passed a delicious
night by comparing it with that reserved for me by
the inhospitality of the inhabitants of Santa Rosa,
and by listening to the rain which fell in torrents.
The name of Santa Rosa, sounds well to the
ear, and from the regularity of the houses and
streets, the town in some degree answers the pleas-
ing ideas to which its appellation gives rise. But
the temperature is very cold ; and as the environs
produce nothing but corn, potatoes and onions,
the population would not be very rich had it not
as a resource several manufactories of woollen
hats and cotton stuffs, which articles are in much
request with their neighbours, the inhabitants of
Socorro, Goitres are here very common.
The next day I passed through Serinsa, situ-
ated in an irregular valley, where the cold is very
* The common beverage of the Indians. It is generally
made of maize, which is pounded and then left to ferment — in
some parts, instead of pounding, the Indians chew it between
their teeth. It is very intoxicating — Translator.
96
TRAVELS IN THE
severe, if we may judge from the moss which
covers the roofs. This severe temperature comes
from the paramo that commands the valley, and
which extends from the north north-east, to the
south south-west. At noon I began to climb it; and
reached the summit after having travelled some
time among apple trees, which, in the Cordillera,
form the limits of the earth's obedience to man.
At five o'clock in the evening, I arrived at the
venta, on the Socorro side of the mountain, the
resting place for all travellers.
The paramos form a country absolutely un-
like those above which they rise. All is different,
nature there produces plants entirely distinct
from those of the other regions ; and but for a
few spots sheltered from the winds, where man
has sown potatoes, beans, and onions, these places
would be uninhabitable. The earth is here rare-
ly covered with stones, except in places near the
region of snow, where a kind of gravel is found
similar to that of rivers.
When I traversed the Serinsa, the tempera-
ture although cold was bearable ; but the air was
excessively dry, so much so that the straps and
ropes, which secured my baggage, were breaking
every instant. I had great cause to congratulate
myself; for, according to what the inhabitants told
me, when the paramo se pone bravo (is out of
humour), then the greatest dangers threaten the
traveller ; a wind loaden with icy vapours blows
with tremendous violence ; thick darkness covers
IIKPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA.
97
tl»c earth and conceals eveiy trace of a road.
The birds which, on tiie appearance of a fine day,
had attempted the passage, fall motionless. The
traveller seeks to shelter himself under the stunted
shrubs which here and there grow in these
deserts ; but their wet foliage obliges him to
find anotlier covert. Worn out with fatigue and
hunger, in vain urging on his mules, benumbed
with cold, lie sits down to recover his exhausted
strength. Fatal repose! his stomach soon becomes
affected as when at sea, his blood freezes in his
veins, his muscles grow stiff, his lips open as if to
smile, and he expires with the expression of joy
upon his features. The mules, no longer hearing
their master's voice, remain standing, til) at length
tired, they lie down to die.
Nothing presents so dismal an appearance
as the Serinsa, seen froin below, its frow^ning
brow is generally hidden in the clouds ; while
its summit is rarely illumined by a cheerful sky.
Some springs, whose livid and icy waters are not
potable, escape from its barren sides, but never
produce on them that fertility to which they
contribute in the lower region ; muddy pools,
choaked up with bull-rushes and other aquatic
plants, occupy the bottom of the vallies. The
screams of the white heron, w^hen the ^vinds are
hushed, is all that breaks in upon its silence.
The earth produces nothing but a short kind of
grass, eagerly sought after by animals. One
H
98 TRAVEIvS IN THE
plant alone, the {espeletia frailexo)i) of stately
growth is able to resist the hurricane ; its yellow
leaves, placed at the top of a stalk, entirely black,
shed a melancholy gleam, like that of a funeral
torch ; an eifect still heightened by the nume-
rous crosses placed upon the graves of travellers
who have perished in their endeavours to cross
the paramo.
Spite of the perils often encountered by man
upon these heights, poverty, and his avidity after
gold, continually force him to traverse them.
If he is met coming from the warm countries, he
is seen laden with bananas and succulent fruits ;
if from cold ones, bending beneath sacks of flour,
or enormous earthen pots, filled with chicha, in
a state of fermentation. A miserable profit is
sufficient to induce him to brave the fatigues and
privations to which he is condemned in these
wild and desert regions. Will it be credited, that
a man can earn little more than five francs (about
three shillings and ninepence) for carrying a load
of seventy five pounds weight from Santa Rosa to
Socorro, a journey of three days ? But by this he
gains the utmost of his wishes ; he sells the over-
plus of his harvest, and lives for nearly a month
upon its profits. Mules are also used on this labo-
rious passage, but the roads are so excessively bad,
that men are employed to much greater advan-
tage. The venta del Baslo, built by a worthy man
on the paramo of Serinsa, and Avhere I passed the
KKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 99
night, consists of foiii- cottages — two only are
closed in with eai-th, the other two being open,
expose t!ie traveller to a most intense cold.
The prejndice of the inhabitants of the Cordille-
ra against fire, which they conceive to be un-
wholesome, prevents them from lighting any.
It is indeed, impossible to imagine, how men
born in the glowing regions of the Socorro, and
clad only in cotton garments, can resist a cold
so intense : as for me, I was benumbed, although
my birth was the least exposed to the outward
air, and notwithstanding I was well wrapped up
in thick woollen cloaks, &c. The cold, however,
which I felt, did not last all the night, my host
had conceived the singular idea of bringing up
a great number of cats, which were trained to
place themselves upon the feet of travellers ; 1
had two of them, whose thick furs kept me very
warm. I certainly needed them much, mv host's
supper not being at all calculated to exhilarate
me; yucca, potatoes, .'lasamora, a bouilli of
maize, and warm chicha, are dishes too simple for
an European stomach.
The owner of the venta has, at the foot of
the paramo, a field which, under the fostering
rays of a warmer sun, prodnces sugar canes. ^ —
This place, so fortunate when compared with
those by which it is overlooked, is called Las
Vueltas ; the way to it lies throuiih very thick
woods, which, in several places, advance even
H 2
100 TR-\VELS IN THR
into the sinuosities of the paramos, as if they
were braving a new climate; their audacity seems
to be punished, for, constantly blown upon by
the frosty winds, the trees, which approach too
nearly the limits of vegetation, are covered with
mosses, which stop their growth and hasten their
decay.
I had been told, that I should find at Las
Vueltas the ruins of a village, formerly inha-
bited by the Indians, this had greatly excited my
curiosity ; but on arriving there, I could only
discover holes, dug by the inhabitants in every
direction, for the purpose of discovering the
riches which they supposed to lie buried there ;
to their great disappointment, they had found
nothing but earthen vessels, and glass ornaments,
proofs of the comparatively recent destruction of
the Indian village. Whether the inhabitants of
this inaccessible retreat had fled unto the plains
of Meta, or had dispersed themselves in different
directions, cannot be ascertained — a circum-
stance which renders their disappearance from
among so many habitations, scattered in every
direction, the more mysterious. Upon the ruins
of tlie Indian huts, the landlord of the venta has
built his residence. The site is very lonely, but
enchanting ; at the foot of it flows a river of con-
siderable breadth ; and upon its rugged sides
have been sown maize and beans. This estate
has all the extent which the peaceful ambition of
UKPUHLIC OF COLOMJJIA.
101
its owner requii-es. Oaks of majestic growth
shade liis fields and preserve them from the hur-
ricanes of the mountains. But in spite of the
pleasure which is experienced in contemphiting
the image of happiness and plenty in this retreat,
when compared with the desolate aspect of the
paramo, one cannot help feeling some regret
from the reflection, that these fields were former-
ly cultivated by an unfortunate race, now afar
off, and sighing, perhaps, after their lawful pos-
sessions. On the other hand, when thinking of
the savage state in which that people must have
lived, it is delightful to walk fearlessly amid
these beautiful forests, enlivened, at intervals, by
the lowing of the cattle, where, although so
completely isolated, one meets with civilisation,
peaceful habits, and even customs not unknown
to Europeans.
Bidding an adieu to this charming retreat,
in which I could have spent some months with
much satisfaction, I soon entered the road of
Guaclia, by which the traveller descends into the
Socorro. The inhabitants of this country look
upon it as the work of the devil ; tiiey have
pointed out to me with their finger the abode of
tiie wicked one, but I must confess I saw no-
thing. The Guacha is nothing but a rock of im-
mense extent, in which the rains and the earth-
quakes liave made considerable chasms ; it is con-
sequently impossible to make use of horses tliere,
102 TRAVELS IN THE
and I therefore alighted ; no accident happened
to nie, which was the more fortunate, as in ge-
neral several horses are lost in this dangerous
passage. Some idea may be formed of the risks
to be run, by the bones with which the road is
strewed, and the numerous crosses erected at
the foot of the precipice. When we arrived Ihere
our labours were not over ; we were obliged to
continue walking on foot, for the road, although
not so rugged, is formed along the bed of a ri-
ver, so that one is continually in the water. I
arrived safe and sound at the venta Corda, a
very small house. Twelve of us lodged there to-
gether.
On the 1st of July I was out of the para-
mos, the aspect of the country was less forbid-
ding, the climate milder, and the sky more se-
rene. The cold no longer prevented me from
rising before day -break: in a few hours we
reached Elisano, and were on the territory of
Socorro — upon advancing into this province, we
experienced a most agreeable change ; all the
cottages were covered with tiles ; an air of com-
fort was observable throughout the inhabitants,
and an amenity of manners, seldom to be met
with in cold climates ; we were every where
received with welcome ; the beautiful tropical
character of nature gladdened our sight on every
side, for it is ever pleasing to see again the
banana and the orange trees ; unfortunately the
RKlUIIiLU; OF COLOMBIA. l()3
roads are so encumbered with mud, tliat it was
necessary to advance witli the utmost caution,
in order to avoid m;iking- a slip, wliich would
have been truly dangerous. Upon quitting Eli-
sano, I coasted the Pienta, a river whicli waters
all the valley of Charalan.
Before night-fall 1 entered the town of that
name ; I was surprised at the regularity of its
streets and houses, and had the satisfaction of
meeting once more that careless gaiety indige-
nous to a warm climate.
The next day I took the direction towards
Culetas, where I arrived at noon ; I did not stop
here, but continued to follow the route of villa
Socorro ; on the road, we met a man and wo-
man, whom the alcaid of a neighbouring village
bad so ill treated, for their having refused to
submit to a most unjust corvee, that they were
nearly expiring ; some wealthy inhabitants of
Charalan, who were travelling with me, advised
them to go and confess themselves instantly,
without however, backing this advice by more
substantial consolations, of which these un-
fortunate wretches stood in present need : they
assisted them to rise, condoled with them on
their lot, and they were at length able to reco-
ver their strength, and travel on to reach Cule-
tas ; we took the road of the town of Socorro,
which town I entered l)efore night.
J'iie province of Socorro ends, on the north,
104 TRAVELS IN THE
a league and a half beyond St. Giles, and bor-
ders on this side upon Pamplona.* It extends
on the south as far as Puente Real ; to the east,
it is bounded by the province of Tunja ; and to
the west, by the unknown lands of the Magdalena;
it contains several towns of importance, St.
Giles, where a stone bridge, and a college have
just been built, Zapatoca, Charalan, Palmar, Ai-
ba, Simatoca, Palmas, Guadalupe, and Socor-
ro. This latter, which gives its name to all the
province, is the capital of it : there is the resi-
dence of the governor, who has under his orders
a few militia men and invalids, to whom the go-
vernment pays four or five piastres per month.
The town of Socorro is ill built, and still
worse paved. Situated on the declivity of a
mountain, it is seldom refreshed by the winds,
on account of the chain of Opon, which extends
north and south, to the mountains of Ocana.
The heat is consequently very intense there, the
thermometer in the shade, rarely being lower
than 20". At the time I was there (July) it
usually began raining at one o'clock in the
afternoon ; the thunder roared, and the storm
lasted till sunset. The winds blew from the
north.
The waters are generally disagreeable for
drinking, and of a bad quality. May not the goi-
tres, which disfigure all the population, and even
* See the first note.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 105
foreigners, after a long residence there, be attri-
buted to them ? even animals are affected with
this evil, and only escape from it by death. Fe-
vers are also very common, and many old men
are dropsical. The population of Socorro is, how-
ever, estimated at nearly twelve thousand inhabi-
tants ; their activity and intelligence jri'e asto-
nishing ; they are assiduous in agriculture, nor
are their manufactures despicable. Their har-
vests of sugar, cotton, and rice, are plentiful ;*
these articles are at the most reasonable rate
possible, for few roads are practicable. It had
been proposed to form a road over the mountains
of Opon, by which the Magdalena might have
been reached in six days, whilst a longer time
is required to reach the port of Botigas, which
is only twenty-seven leagues distant ; but the
war has prevented this useful project from being
executed.
The inmates of every hut are engaged in
spinning, dying, or weaving ; different trades
are seen in every direction ; a considerable num-
ber of the inhabitants prefer making straw hats :
these manufacturers are easily distinguished, by
the nail of the index finger, which they permit to
grow to a most extravagant length.
The stuffs manufactured are coarse, but du-
rable; although in the provinces they are preferred
* Moist sugar about 6ft i real ; loaf sugar, 2.5lb 5 reals ;
'-otton, 25ll5 10 reals ; rice, '2.)lt) 4 reals.
106 TRAVELS IN THE
to the foreign cotton when sold at the same price,
and notwithstanding- the sale is consequently con-
siderable, the manufacturers are very poor ; in
fact a spinster does not earn a real per day ; a
piece of cotton stuff containing- sixty-four vares
(about 52 yards) does not produce the w^eaver
a greater profit than seven reals. — The merchant
alone gains ; he transports the stuffs from
Socorro to Giron, where he exchanges them for
tobacco and gold ; at Cucuta, he barters them
for cocoa ; and at Zipaquira, for salt and Eng-
lish stuffs. The latter are the only ones in re-
quest ; a prejudice little encouraging to native
industry ; even the women now only dress a
I'Anglaise. A fancy the more easily gratified
as the Manchester cottons are even cheaper than
those manufactured in the country itself; a
gown may be had for about seven shillings.
The houses are generally dirty and badly
constructed, but are more commodious then
those of the cold regions. There are beds in
them ; silver plate, table cloths and napkins
are used at meals ; but in general the only
dishes are potatoes, rice, bananas and pork. —
The inhabitants of Socorro have, at all times,
displayed a boldness and energy of character,
which forms a singular contrast with their heavy
and stupid appearance ; even now, although they
seem tired out with the numerous claims every
day made upon their patriotism, the only title
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 107
they use one to anotliei- is that of citizen, ap-
pearing- firmly attaclied to the republican system.
They were the first who, long before Europe sup-
posed that America could ever become indepen-
dent, raised the standard of revolt.
I shall now proceed to investigate the ori-
gin and the consequences of the insurrection,
wliich produced the emancipation of America,
first briefly describing the situation of this
country from the period of the conquest to the
commotion whit^h took place in 1781 : by this
means the reader will be made acquainted with
the two eras of the Spanish Empire in America,
and will be enabled to compare the new system
with that which existed previously.
108 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER VI.
Situation of the country from 1498 to 1781. — The ancient inhabi-
tants — Their customs — Their manners — Commercial, religious and
military conquests — Quesada — Decrease of the ludiau population —
Neg-roes — Their Condition — Mixture of the races — Ports — Churches —
Villages — Towns — Mines — Colonial agriculture — European agricul-
ture — Industry — Spanish Government — Profound peace.
When America was first discovered, savages of
unconquerable ferocity and courage inhabited
the beautiful plains of Cumana, Caracas, as well
as those watered by the Apure and Oronooko ;
continually wandering in these impregnable re-
treats, a few fruits, or the produce of the chace
constituted their only food ; the earth in sum-
mer, or the shelter of trees in the rainv season,
served them for bed and habitation : they were
almost naked ; the rude paintings with Avhich they
covered their bodies, the bones or teeth of animals
with which they loaded their ears, and the rings
of gold which they appended from their nostrils,
were the most refined ornaments they had in-
vented ; the feathers of birds was the usual co-
vering of their heads, and the spoils of wild beasts
that of the body. Ambition however slumbered
amidst all this wretchedness; the supreme com-
mand was the object of their most ardent vows;
REPUBLIC OF C<)IA)MBIA. 1 09
it was the recompense of tlie most painful trials;
the least expression of complaint was punished
by exclusion. What need then had these bar-
barians of a chief? what differences were to be
decided ? what spoils, what conquests were to be
shared? — The bloody corpses of their enemies;
for the greater part of them, when the chase
failed, fed upon the palpitating limbs of their
prisoners ; there were but few tribes who dis-
liked these horrible repasts.
In the mountains, on the contrary, the man-
ners were ameliorated. The rich province of An-
tioquia alone was still addicted to blood ; while
in the plain in which Santa-Fe was afterwards
built, the nation of the Moscas already possessed
some laws. The communications between diffe-
rent villages were safe and frequent. Agricul-
ture commenced to be in esteem, property was
respected, the towns had habitations tolerably
commodious and the people were dressed with
decency. Without being surrounded by all
that splendour to be found in the courts of Te-
nochtitlan and Cusco, that of the chief of Cun-
dinamarca, to whom the Spaniards gave the title
of king, was magnificent. Religion possessed
its temples, altars and priests. Of all the
Indians who inhabited these vast regions, the
Moscas were the only ones who restricted the
offering to their Gods, the sun and moon, to birds
which they had previously taught to pronounce
some words of their language, in order that the
110 TRAVELS IN THE
cheated divinities might take them for human vic-
tims. Everywhere else,notl)ing-buthuman victims
were offered, and young- persons of both sexes
broug-ht up to be butchered in these horrid sa-
crifices, were sold at a most enormous price.
Upon hearing of the discovery of the new
world, the most savage inhabitants of which wore
collars and bracelets of gold, the Spanish soldiers,
weary of European warfare, which now afforded
then but a poor booty, and the Moors and Jews,
impatient of the yoke, to which they had recent-
ly been subjected, bid adieu to Europe, and
set off to visit these new lands, and to find an-
other country. But along the whole coast of
South America, which is washed by the sea of the
Antilles, they were repulsed by the Indians, and
found all their flattering hopes disappointed.
These misfortunes caused so general a despon-
dency, that the Spanish government found itself
obliged to offer the conquest of Venezuela to the
highest bidder.*
It was undertaken by some german mer-
chants in 1528, who executed it with all the
cruelty imaginable.-j-
They succeeded in gaining possession of the
* The fact is that Charles V having borrowed considerable
sums from the Welsers of Ausbourg, at that time the richest
merchants in Europe, offered them the province of Venezuela,
in payment, and they accepted it as a fief of Castille. See
Raynal, Histoire des Indes. — Translator.
t Depons, tome I, p. 77.
RKPIIBLIC OF COLOMBIA. Ill
coast, uiul had already erected habitations at
some distance in the interior ; these were how-
ever continually reduced to ashes by the savages
who had taken refuge in the woods, and the ter-
rified colonists, scarcely dared to quit their pali-
saded fortresses. —
Religion now undertook to put a stop to these
excesses, and to make a conquest which the
sword had been unable to effect. Missionaries
penetrated into the wild retreats of the fugitive
Indians. The greater number of these peaceful
conquerors became the victims of their zeal.
Those who had the good fortune to escape, ob-
tained victory after victory ; and as they advanced,
founded churches of thatch and rushes ; at length,
they arrived on the borders of the Oronooko,
after having opened a safe communication be-
tween that river and Venezuela, by means of the
asylums, inviolable even for the savages, which
they had erected at intervals.
In the mean time, the soldiers jealous of the
glory of Pizarro and Cortes, scaled the Cordillera
under the command of Quesada, and subdued
empires. In fact this chief, stimulated by the se-
ductive accounts of a great number of Indians
who, pointing to the south, had assured him that
he would find in that direction a rich and power-
ful empire, set off from St. Martha in the month
of April 153G, at the head of six hundred and
twenty infantry, and eighty-five cavalry. It was
112 TRAVELS IN THE
with infinite difficulty tliat his slight and ill con-
structed boats could ascend the Magdalena, but
the obstacles opposed to him by this river,
instead of arresting his progress, only inflamed
his courag-e. A great number of his brave com-
panions perished cither with fatigue or w^ant.
Nothing, however, could daunt him : he at-
tacked the Indians inhabiting the canton^ where
Velez has since been built, gained an easy con-
quest, traversed their territory, and victoriously
descended into the beautiful plams of Ibate and
Bogota. His valour had not been abused by
idle tales, llie province of Cundinarmarca,
since called Santa-F^, was very rich. Power-
ful princes, called zipas, at the head of a feudal
government, ruled the country, and protected
an industry which had already begun to deve-
lope itself; their temples, and palaces of straw,
contained no inconsiderable treasure.
Thus a few bold and enterprising men, in
the course of one year, effected the conquest of
those countries to which the name of the Vice-
royalty of New Grenada has since been given, but
which form only one portion of it*. The proofs of
a movement towards civilisation was every where
observable among the Indians. The avarice of
the Spaniards, increased by this circumstance,
sought only after new conquests. Neither the
* The Indians were not wanting in courage, but the Spa-
niards were in the sixteenth century what the French were in
the nineteenth, fortunate and invincible.
UEPUliLIC OF COLOMBIA. 113
badness of tlie roads, the want of provisions,
the oppressive intensity of the heat, nor the poi-
soned arrows of the natives, could damp their
enterprising- courage. Some adventurers, col-
lecting a few soldiers in the ports of the sea of
the Antilles, and furnished with ammunition,
proceeded to conauer kingdoms.
Not less brave than Pizarro, Benalcazar, at
first his lieutenant, became his rival in glory.
Quito, Pasto, Popayan, and the valley of Cauca,
acknowledged his authority. Tlien, passing the
Quindiu and tlie Magdalena, and arriving in the
plain of Bogota, at the moment when Quesada
had completed its conquest, he became one of
the founders of the capital of these rich posses-
sions.
Upon hearing the recital of so many famous
exploits, at the sight of the fields of battle, and
the impregnable places where the Spaniards
fouglit, it is difficult to explain how they ob-
tained such rapid and astonishing success, espe-
cially if credit be given to the accounts of tlie first
historians, of the considerable number of inha-
bitants who were found there. But, already
mistress of the coasts of Africa, Spain only aban-
doned them for those of America, because the
population of the latter were found to be less
numerous and warlike. Besides, being assisted
by the intestine quarrels among the Indians, the
Spanish captains every where found traitors to
I
1 14 TRAVELS IN THE
be g-ained over ; these acted as guides, and dis-
covered the ambushes laid for them, while women
served them as interpreters and spies.
Recruiting- was particularly carried on at
St, Doming-o ; this island was already filled with
negroes and mnlattoes ; they were formed into
regiments, and sent over to the continent. These
men were the best soldiers that could be era-
ployed in this burning climate. It is doubt-
less by inheritance that the Indians still indulge
an implacable hatred against men of colour.
These, after having contributed to the con-
quest of such rich empires, weie now to assist in
peopling them ; for the conquerors having im-
prudently employed in the mines, and in the
labours of the field, the Indians, for a long time
accustomed to idleness, and incapable of work-
ing in the burning lands of the tropics, M^iere
their fathers were not born, had sunk under the
weight of fatigues, which were indeed light, but
to which they were not accustomed. Let the
white and feeble population of our Antilles be
forced by their masters to dig the earth for a few
days, exposed to the burning heat of the sun,
although that under which they were born, and
the race will gradually sink, and at last entirely
disappear. This was what happened in the Ame-
rican archipelago ; at the end of two centuries
none of the natives were to be found. Those of
the plains of Venezuela, would likewise have
UKPUHLIC OF COLOMIUA. 115
(lisappeaied had tliey not taken refnge in tlie
forests of Oronooko.
Such was not the case in the mountains ;
the painful labours of agricultuie were not fatal
to any of tlie Indians, because they were under a
climate suited to their strengtli; thus, the number
of Indians, far from diminishing, was consider-
ably increased.
The African then could alone resist the tro-
pical heat : he alone, could be forced against liis
inclination to labour without perishing from
grief and fatigue. Permission was therefore asked
of the Spanish government to allow the impor-
tation of them. The court of Madrid hesitated
a long time before it would grant this dangerous
privilege ; it was at length forced from it, in
order to appease the cry of humanity which rose
on behalf of the Indians, and to people those
vast empires which, even before the conquest, pre-
sented so many deserts and solitudes.
Thus the negroes destined to cultivate the
American soil, first entered as slaves into those
countries, which they were one day to share with
their masters. The latter not having been accom-
panied by women in their perilous expeditions,
at first they took those of the vanquished nations,
and soon afterwards, those of their slaves.
These last in their turn, fastened in the cn-
comicndas to the same chain as the Indians,
overcoming their antipathy to these companions
I 2
116 TRAVELS IN THE
in misfortune, asked, and obtained leave to
intermarry with them. It is thus that the
entire population of Venezuela, the whole ot
whose features announce an Asiatic origin, as-
sumed a thousand different hues ; the white co-
lour, however, was considered as exclusively
entitled to respect, and the women coveted the
honour of leaving to their offspring this proud
inheritance ; so that, in a short time, the number
of these half whites, or children of Indians and
Europeans, was prodigiously increased. A great
portion of the Indian family soon became so
amalgammated and confounded with them, as to
induce the belief that they had been all mas-
sacred by the Spaniards.
At the same time, this family already much
mixed, was further augmented by a multitude
of negresses ; but, notwithstanding these numer-
ous crossings of the different races, the honour ot
peopling the continent still belonged to the
white race, and the number of men of colour
was far less than in the Antilles, where the white
colour had a constant tendency to lose itself in
that of the blacks.
Having become masters of the coasts, the
Spaniards lost no time in building several forts,
where, defended from sudden surprise and al-
ways ready to embark on the first serious at-
tack, they prepared for the conquest of the
interior provinces. Their positions were well
rkpublk; of Colombia. 117
chosen, tliey availed themselves of the suggestions
of nature, which, in different parts, oftered them
places proper for resisting on one hand, external
enonies, already jealous of their conquest, and
on the other, those who in the interior, were
meditating but too late to wrest them from them.
Puerto Cabello, la Guayra, defended Venezuela ;
Maracaybo. the entrance of the Cordillera, Santa
Martha and Carthagena, the rich canal of the
Magdalena ; San Thomas, the Oronooko ; Pana-
ma, the important passage of the two seas. Their
flag was hoisted on several points of the coasts
of the South Sea ; and Spain, in these latitudes
then unknown to the nations of Europe, was
not under the necessity of making its sovereignty
otherwise respected.
Upon advancing into the interior of the
country, they never neglected building a tem-
ple. They had taught the Indians to respect
these asylums, by granting them their lives,
when, after a defeat, they fled to them : these
churches also served to induce the savages to
quit their forests, by the attraction of the cere-
monies in which the Spaniards always display
much magnificence.
But if they desired to establish themselves
in places inhabited by these ferocious nations, the
house of the curate was always fortified, while
a ditch dug around the inclosure of the village,
defended it against a surprise ; notwithstanding
118
TRAVELS IN THE
these precautions, numbers of tlieni were de-
stroyed by the Panches and the Andaquis. Better
informed of the enterprises and designs of the
Spaniards, these two tribes waged a long- and
cruel war with them as late as the commence-
ment of the last century.
Although the establishments of New Gre-
nada became every day more important, the
people were still poor ; churches alone were
ornamented, the dwelling's were nothing but huts
of mud and straw. To possess a cock and a hen,
was to be rich ; a cow, a bull, and a horse, were
a fortune. It was not till the seventeenth cen-
tury, that some fowls were seen at Bogota, and
the name of him who first introduced them, has
been preserved with almost religious veneration.
Provisions were then scarce and dear ; the
usual food was the fruits of the earth, which
were exceedingly multiplied, for no one ever
travelled without carrying seeds with him. Glory
consisted iu gathering a new fruit, and luxury in
presenting it to one's friend.
After the lapse of a century, the face of the
continent was changed ; forests were cut down
to make room for orchards. Cattle were multi-
plied in the rich pastures which bordered the
banks of the rivers, horses and mules became
more common ; and man, M^ho without their
assistance, laboured with difficulty, could, when
possessing them, undertake larger operations.
UKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. II!)
Open roads, and increase the number of villages,
for he was then enal)led to transport at a small
expence the produce of his fields.
The villages were now enlarged, and the
wretched fortifications, which formerly enclosed
them, fell into ruins. Before the eighteenth
century, towns began to be raised, at the head
of which the capital Santa-F^ soon equalled
those of Europe of the third class.
This increase of the population occasioned
a new division of South America. In 1718, New
(yrenada, dependent upon Peru, was erected into a
viceroyalty ; and in 1731, the provinces of Vene-
zuela were placed under a particular government.
Thus, in the space of a century, from a few
scattered tribes of cannibals, and African slaves,
a new Spanish people had arisen, having the same
worship, government, laws, customs, and lan-
guage ; Spain had not founded colonies, but had
created nations and empires. Before being agri-
culturists, the first American colonists were mer-
chants ; this so enriched the maritime towns,
that tliey soon acquired greater importance and
extent than those of the interior. Carthagena
and Panama especially became rich and populous.
Afterwards, witliout disparagement to their in-
terests, they found rivals in the inland towns,
which, at length, eclipsed them when the people
became agriculturists, Caracas, Santa-Fe, and
120
TRAVELS IN THE
Quito, had no equals on the unhealthy coasts of
the sea.
Before undertaking any agricultural schemes
of importance, capital was necessary. At the time
of the conquest, the Spanish soldiers soon dissipat-
ed what they had gained by pillage. The Jews and
Moors, who had embraced Christianity, in order to
be allowed to enter America, had bought up these
spoils at a low rate ; and, being for the most
part established at Popayan and Antioquia, tliey
commenced working the mines so abundant in
these provinces, and which had already been
turned to some account by the Indians. Africans,
transported at a vast expense into these distant
countries, dug trenches in every direction, and
following the system, which they had seen adopt-
ed in their own country, confined themselves
to washing the earth.
The metal at length appeared in large quan-
tities, and Spain then found that, if the conquest
of Mexico had put her in possession of the richest
silver mines in the world, that of New Grenada,
had given her a territory abounding in gold.
She had established a mint at Mexico, another at
Popayan, and a third at Santa-F^ ; notwithstand-
ing the clumsy method of the negroes, more than
two millions of gold piastres were annually pro-
duced from the smelting houses of New Grenada.
Previously to the introduction of these establish-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMJilA. 1 2 I
iiients, macuquina was the only money struck :
this was a shapeless coin, without border or
effig-y of tlie prince; intHviduals also could ob-
tain tlie right of coining money, upon payment of
a small douceur *. As may be supposed, Spain
did not receive the whole of this precious metal ;
on the contrary, she was obliged to pay a con-
siderable part of the local expenses with money
drawn from Mexico. The towns, however, were
increased and beautified, and agriculture began
to be in repute.
It was divided into colonial agriculture and
European agriculture : the former, in more able
hands, would have made inmiense progress ;
sugar, coffee, and cocoa, grew with wonderful
fecundity ; the indigo and the cotton-tree were
indigenous and wild plants. But all these were
neglected ; Caracas alone undertook to at-
tend to them, and its exportations consequently-
doubled those of the viceroyalty. The provinces
which formed New Grenada being composed, for
the most part, of cold regions, had lavished their
money, and the sweat of their brow in cultivating
our grains and fruits ; but with such little me-
thod, that they scarcely could produce sufficient
for their own consumption. Fruits, abandoned
to the care of nature, reseinblcd those of Europe
in apppearance rather than in taste.
* Jove. Memuria at virei/ Samanon.
122 TRAVELS IN THE
The industry of all these countries was but
very homely : a few manufactures of cottons
for the clothing of the people, were to be found,
and nothing- more. Spain, upon this subject, was
inexorable, notwithstanding her own manufactures
were very limited ; and although she was thus
obliged to purchase at foreign markets the articles
necessary for her American colonies. Her only
object, liowever, in these prohibitions, was a system
of rule which should insure her an empire of
three centuries. In fact, regarding their colonies
as integral provinces of their empire, the kings
of Spain had forbidden the culture of the vine at
Quito, but had permitted it at Lima. Olive-
trees were to be seen at Chili, while they were
not allowed to be planted at Buenos Ayres. New
Grenada was obliged to close up its silver mines,
at the requisition of Mexico ; who, rich in its
metallic operations, did not possess the right of
undertaking agricultural or other enterprises,
which would have interrupted its relations with
the mother country. The small number of the
inhabitants, their ignorance, the mildness of
their character, their docility, the authority
of the clergy, rendered it easy to establish any
form of government ; but the distances, the dif-
ficulty of communication, were obstacles to
its consolidation not easily to be surmounted :
each revolt might produce a schism. The mea-
sures adopted were very sagacious, and disjilayed
UKPUHLIC OK COLOMBIA. 123
a rare foresig-ht in the advisers of Charles V. The
habits of both people were monarchical, but the
licence of warfare, and the independance of the
savage life, had imparted both to the conquerors
and the conquered an impatience of controul
difficult to be overcome. Both parties acknow-
ledged the superiority of the mother city, and felt
sensible that they stood in need of its sup])ort ;
the former, for the peaceable enjoyment of their
conquests : the latter, for the amelioration of
their condition — all were anxious for a mixed
government. In consequence, the superiority
was preserved to the victor by the vice-royalty,
and protection to the latter by the municipal
code, — to all, a defence against European op-
pression by the establishment of audiences.
The country was divided into a vice-royalty
and captaincy-general, subdivided into lieute-
nancies, provinces, magistracies, commander-
ships and missions.
The government founded in America expe-
rienced the lot of all human institutions : it was
disfigured by abuses, the municipal government
degenerated into a tyrannical oligarchy, because
intelligence was rarely to be met with. The
members of the audiences, Avhose duty it was to
defend the oppressed, became themselves the
oppressors. The vice-roys were deceived, or af-
fected to be so, and were careless of their duties
from an eagerness to advance their fortune ; and.
124 TRAVELS IN THE
lastly, the Council of Castille, established in
1511, from the want of correct information, often
pronounced erroneous decrees.
But notwithstanding- all these defects, the
Spanish colossus was firm and unshaken ; its
coasts were ravaged, its seaport towns burnt,
and its fortresses besieg-ed ; but its territory was
still untact. If Anson returned victorious from
the South Sea, another English admiral, Vernon,
being repulsed at Carthagena, retreated with his
army in disgraceful flight, and found refuge in
his fleet. Spain carefully guarded her widely-
extended coasts; and, notwithstanding her mis-
fortunes and her decadence, she left to America
the greater part of the treasures drawn from her
bosom, in order that these countries might enjoy
a tranquillity unknown to the mother country,
upon which England made war every twenty
years, in order to deprive her of the little riches
she received from her colonies.
It is an historical fact, unique of its kind,
that, under the protection of a people few in
number, without industry, without commerce,
badly armed and defended ])y an ill-organized
marine, a whole world enjoyed, without inter-
ruption, a peace of three centuries. At the end
of a century, the roads were all safe, the cannibal
tribes had fled far from civilization, or had re-
ceived its benefits ; morals, though not pure,
were decent ; religion, every where respected by
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 125
the people, drew still closer together tiie ties of
society by the sacraments which render them in-
dissoluble. A few soldiers in the capital formed
the body-guard of the viceroy, but not a satel-
lite was to be found in the other towns of the
interior; the only use of arms was against the
wild beasts. The different provinces had a free
intercourse, which was kept up between the dif-
ferent provinces ; that between New Grenada
and Caracas was alone forbidden. Tlie Spanish
government, already foreseeing the dang'erous
ambition of the inhabitants of the plains, was
anxious to prevent its crisis. The taxes were
moderate, the navigation of the rivers, fishing,
hunting-, the clearing and draining of the lands,
were all as yet unincujnbered by any law.
No right, but that of individuals, was as yet
known ; provided their property was respected,
the cutting down of trees, the changing the
course of rivers, the destruction of animals ; in
fact, an indulgence of every possible caprice was
allowed, without paying any tax to government,
or soliciting a special permission from rich and
overgrown proprietors.
12(3 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER Vn.
Revolt of Socorro — lusiirrectioii of 1794 — Spauisli Viceroys — Revolt of Ca-
racas in 1810 — Revolt of New Grenada — The Viceroy Aniar — Mi-
randa — Bolivar — IMonteverde reconquers Caracas — Bolivar passes
over to Curasao — He abandons it — Returns by Carthageua to Cara-
cas — Is defeated — Crosses the Cordillera — Seizes Santa-Fe — Marches
to attack Castillo at Carthag-ena — Is defeated — Passes over to Jamaica
— General ambition — Morillo subjects the country.
By one of those sudden impulses, which even the
sagacious policy of Spain could not foresee, the
Americans roused themselves from their lethar-
gic supineness, and shook off the trammels of
ignorance.
In 1781, the imposition of a tax, called the
Alcavala,* caused the province of Socorro to
rise. For the first time the American population
flew to arms ; and marched against the rebels,
who had advanced even to the gates of Bogota.
The archbishop, a man who was much esteemed,
met them, and succeeded by his temperate and
persuasive remonstrances in appeasing the tu-
mult. The Socorro was pacified. As a reward for
important service, the archbishop received the
viceroyalty. Spain, ill at ease, immediately or-
* Benedicto Domingues. Memoria Manuscrita.
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 127
tiered the nuiiieroiis and rebel population of the
ISocorro to be decimated, by sending a great
portion of it to the pestilential plains of the
coast.
Spain now thought its empire as tirndy reesta-
blished as ever ; its foundations were, however,
shaken. Every shock felt by the mother coun-
try, vibrated even through the lowest hut of
America.
In 1794 the fermentation became more ge-
neral in New Grenada. Some intelligence of the
state of France had reached them, and the prin-
ciples which were then prevalent there had found
their way into South America ; the Rights of Man
had even been published at Santa- Fe. This move-
ment was suppressed, the copies of the book were
burnt, and the translators of it, who were very
young, were sent to Spain in irons.
All these measures could not arrest the dan-
gers which threatened the mother country ; they
only retarded it.
The news of the imprisonment of the King
of Spain, in 1808, was a spark which kindled a
general conflagration. French agents arrived
in the name of Joseph, to demand from the Ca-
racas the oath of fidelity. Their orders and pro-
posals were answered by cries of long Hue Ferdi-
nand VII, and by depriving of their situations
all persons suspected of being attached to the
French interest. This first act was the signal of
128 TRAVELS IN THE
independence ; for the mad expedition of Miran-
da, the agent of England, in 1806, did not extend
beyond the capture of a few places : driven from
his ephemeral conquests, this general had only
time to effect his escape to Trinity Island.
By a singular election, Spain had conferred
the command of her provinces upon none but
old men without capacity or courage — the soldiers
who defended them, effeminated by a long
peace, gained over by gold and the blandish-
ments of their friends, for a great number of
them were Americans, desired nothing more than
to betray the Spanisli cause. Quito, which had
already been in a state of revolt, in 1809, had,
with difRcultv, been made to return to her obe-
dience ; she was the first to raise again the stan-
dard of rebellion, in 1810; this, however, did
not affect the rest of the countrv. It was not
the same with that of the Caracas, which burst
out on the 19th of April, 1810, and was followed
by a manifesto. In this the avowed object
was that of guarding against the pretensions
of Europe, the intrigues of the French cabi-
net, and the designs which the central junta
might have upon the country ; of maintaining
the political character, of supporting to the ut-
most, the legitimate dynasty of Spain ; of as-
sisting Ferdinand VII on his liberation from cap-
tivity, and of preserving the honour of the Spa-
nish name, by offering an asylum to the refugees
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 129
of that generous nation. The secret intentions of
the conspirators were easily to be seen through,
in the ambiguous expressions of the pretensions of
Europe, and political character.*
It was not long before the revolution broke
out at Santa-Fe : wlien the news arrived that all
Spain had bowed beneath the yoke, it was no
longer possible to prevent the insurrection ; the
inhabitants flew to arms, under the pretext that
the troops of Bonaparte were about to enter New
Grenada. A junta was formed on the 23rd of
July, 1810, which declared that they acknow-
ledged Ferdinand VII as the sovereign of Cundi-
marca, the ancient name which was again re-
stored to the viceroyalty ; a courier was at the
same time dispatched to Caracas, to inform that
city of the resolutions which had been adopted ;
with orders to subscribe to them. Caracas then
no longer dissembled its projects, and answered
that it would never acknowledge kings, nor adopt
any form of government but such as might be
established by its representatives.
The inhabitants of Santa-F^ de Bogota, al-
though ignorant of the answer of the town of
Caracas, did not themselves abide by their first
resolution.
^rhe viceroy Amar, of a mild disposition, was
incapable of adopting the measures required by
* £1 Espagnol, a periodical work printed at London,
181'^.
K
130 TRAVELS IN THE
circumstances ; a quarrel between a Creol and
a Spaniard, wliich was carefully inflamed, was
the signal for revolt ; the viceroy was dragged
to prison, and then, by a strange caprice, was
placed a few days afterwards at the head of the
government. Finally, on the 15th August, he
was carried off from the palace, and sent to Car-
thagena, under the pretext that it was his in-
tention to sell America to Bonaparte at the rate
of two reals per man and one real per woman ;
the women carried their animosity so far as to ill
treat the vice- queen.
The news of this revolution soon spread
through all the provinces, and each of them, de-
claring its independance, had its congress, re-
presentatives, ministers and presidents. It was
a singular and novel spectacle to see ministers of
state of one and twenty years of age, and presi-
dents of four and twenty : the conduct of affairs
was confided to rash and adventurous young
men.
What is worthy of remark in the American
revolution, is the rare integrity of the viceroys.
All fled, not one accepted a sceptre, which was
doubtless offered them.
It is difficult at first to understand why
the military, who had taken up arms in the
name of Ferdinand VII, should suddenly have
declared against him. But the men who had
every where placed themselves at the head of
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. lljl
the iiisiiiTection, were the principal personages
of the country, titled men ; little satisfied with
tlie distinctions, which had been conferred upon
them less as a reward for their merit, than as
a compliment to their fortune, they imagined
themselves called to pass from the rank of the
first of American subjects, to that of sovereigns.*
Accustomed to consider the favorites of the mo-
narch as their masters, if they were not actually
so, the people obeyed whatever impulse they
gave them. As soon as regiments were formed,
and discipline established, they looked upon the
lieutenants, captains, and colonels, appointed by a
dozen persons, as lawfully commissioned. Dur-
ing several years, no others were known ; their
names became dear to the multitude, for they
spoke the language of enthusiasm, and employed
the fascinating charm of American authority and
glory, which began now to be separated from
that of Spain. It was therefore not difficult to
persuade the people to unfurl a standard dif-
ferent from that of the mother country.
In 1814, after the re-establishment of peace
* One of the causes which have prevented the Spanish
Monarchy in America from hecoming, like that of Charlemagne
in ils decadence a feudal government, is tiiat there were
none of those fortified castles in which the European nobility
entrenched themselves, and defied their sovereign. In Ame-
rica, all the towns, witli the exception of a few maritime
places, are unfortified.
i<2
1.32 TRAVELS IN THE
in Europe, the Spaniards reappeared in Ame-
rica ; relying on their strength, they disdained
to parley with the insurgents ; and before they
called upon them to surrender, began by fir-
ing on them. It was easy now for the Ame-
rican chiefs to persuade their soldiers that the
peninsula had sworn to exterminate them. Attack
was therefore answered by defence. Thus, on one
side, there were rebels, on the other, enemies ;
the cause of Ferdinand VII was almost entirely
abandoned.
Miranda had returned to Caracas in 1811,
and easily obtained the command of the troops.
Unfortunate in his new expedition, he was obliged
to fly to Guyara, to embark on board an
English corvette, which was waiting for him in
that port. As the governor of this place, was
one of his creatures, he thought himself in per-
fect safety : he was however deceived ; the offi-
cers of the garrison determined to give him up
to the Spanish general in order to secure their
own pardon. He was accordingly delivered into
the hands of the Spanish commander, who, upon
this condition, gave a free pardon to all the garri-j
son of la Guyara. Miranda, sent from prison to]
prison, at length died in that of Cadiz.
In 1533, the overflowing of the Cotapaxi,
coincident with the arrival of the Spaniards, had
struck terror into the Indians, and the conquest
of Quito by foreigners, was the consequence
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. K33
of lliis convulsion of nature. A similar event
insured tlieni victory two hundred and seventy
nine vears aftenvaids, tliat is in 1812. In the
alarming earthquake which desolated Caracas
on the 26th of March of that year, the people
imagined they saw the hand of God punishing
rebellion. They every where demanded their
former masters, abjured their errors, and Mon-
teverde, without any difficulty, reconquered Ve-
nezuela.
The joy at being again united to the mother
country was now general, when, suddenly renounc-
ing the clemency which had insured him victory,
Monteverde imprisoned the sons of all the most
respectable families, and by thus oppressing the
province, furnished fresh pretexts to the insur-
gents.
The English were at that time in possession
of Curagao, which they made the centre of the
continental revolution, although they no longer
subsidized it so liberally, but had almost aban-
doned it to the chance of events. Bolivar lived
at Curasao under their protection. Tlie faults
of Monteverde were the origin of his ambition.
Encouraged by the English, and by his own
immense property, he imagined that he could
conquer the provinces which were smarting under
the tyranny of Monteverde, and act the part of
Washington.
He set out for Carthagena at the head of
134 TRAVELS IN THE
fifty followers, took the route of Moiipox, Ocaiia
and Cucuta, and met the Spanish general Correa,
whom he defeated ; his numbers now increasing
as he advanced into the interior, he appeared
under the walls of Valentia. Here he found
Monteverde, a battle ensued, and fortune de-
cided in favour of audacity. Monteverde, beaten^
escaped to Puerto Caballo and took refuge
within its walls. Valentia opened its gates to
the conqueror. He did not stop here, but in the
month of August 1819, entered Caracas, which
he soon after quitted to re-enter Valentia.
Upon the intelligence of Monteverde's defeat,
Bobes, who was at the head of a thousand cavalry,
marched against Bolivar, and routed him, Cara-
cas again returned to its duty. These reverses
did not however discourage Bolivar ; he did not
seek refuge amid the forests of the Oronooko,
but scaling the Cordillera, arrived at Tunja,
and found victory where he only sought for an
asylum.
Narino, who, when younger, had distinguished
himself by revolutionary principles, had returned
into the kingdom. His name was sufl[icient to
place him at the head of the insurrections which
he had so ably directed. All the members of the
congress, established at Santa-F^, had retired, af-
ter investing him with a dictatorship, so much
the object of his wishes.
A congress had been established in each pro-
REPUnLIC OF COLOMBIA. 135
vince ; so that Narino was only acknowledged
in that of Santa-F(i. This was however too small
a theatre for his ambition, an army was therefore
dispatched under the command of Barraia, to es-
tablish his authority in the provinces of Tunjaand
Socorro, the inhabitants of which were parti-
zans of a federative government. But he had
confided arms to traitors, the soldiers and their
chief being gained over by the congress of Tun-
ja, disobeyed his orders and marched against him.
They encamped to the number of 5,000 men upon
Montcerrate, a mountain at the foot of which
Santa-F^ is situated, Narino had only 2,000. He
offered his enemies to capitulate, asking permis-
sion to retire, but was refused. Upon hearing the
answer of Barraia, despair and rage inflamed the
little band of the dictator of Santa-F^, and avail-
ing himself of this disposition, he rushed upon
the rebels, completely defeatedthem, and re-en-
tered Santa-F^ victorious.
This city, which had been for three centuries
the capital of a vast kingdom, refused to enter
into the confederations which the other provinces
were desirous of establishing, for tliis would have
destroyed the supremacy it still enjoyed. In
vain did it plead its situation, its riches, and
the services it had rendered the cause of inde-
pendence ; the provinces constantly refused to
acknowledge it as the centre of government.
The congress of Tunja in the mean time
136 TRAVELS IN THE
participated in the consternation spread through-
out the country by the victory gained over Bar-
ra'ia. Narino knew not how to profit by his
success, while the turbulent congress of Tunja,
did not lose the opportunity of getting rid of the
object of its fears, Quito, which had been in a
state of insurrection a year previous to the gene-
ral revolution, had again fallen into the power of
the Spaniards. Pasto was about to share the
same fate. Narino was offered the command of
the army on the 9th of January 1813. Remem-
bering that empire could only be attained by
attaching the army to him by the ties of victory,
he accepted it, began his march, and defeated the
Spaniards in two engagements ; but was himself
completely routed in a third.
At his departure, he had made very prudent
arrangements, having placed at the head of the
government his uncle Alvares, who participated
his hatred against the congress and the confede-
ration. It was soon known at Santa-Fe, that Na-
rino, after having lost his army, had fallen into
the hands of the enemy. The factious re-com-
menced their machinations, but were restrained
for some time by the firmness of Alvares, whose
efforts however, were at last paralyzed by a still
more dreadful war than the former.
The reader already knows that in 1814, Bo-
livar, defeated in Venezuela by General Bobes,
had escaped to Tunja, accompanied by a small
REPUBLIC OP COLOMBIA. 137
iniinber of soldiers of the plains. He proposed
to the congress, who were uneasy respecting the
proceedings of Alvares, to march against him.
His offer was joyfully accepted, and a few sol-
diers were added to those already under his or-
ders. Upon Alvares learning the invasion of this
new enemy, he dispatched troops against him,
they were defeated, and Bolivar, without losing
an instant, followed up his success with such
ardour, that he entered Santa-Fe, while his
enemies still supposed him in the mountains.
The taking of this town cost some blood ;
Narino being much beloved by the soldiers of
Alvares. In three days however all opposition was
at an end, and Alvares, no longer able to defend
himself, delivered into the victor's hands that
dictatorship, which his nephew had lost toge-
ther with his liberty in the mountains of Pasto.
Thus in the nineteenth century, were re-
newed the wars which the Spanish captains waged
with each other at the commencement of the
conquest. This first invasion of the Cordillera,
by the savage tribes of the plains, caused much
distress to the peaceful inhabitants, by giving
them a foretaste of the wars, and dreadful irrup-
tions which they must one day expect from the
same quarter.
Bolivar was hated by his fellow citizens of
Caracas, and little liked by the people he had just
138 TRAVELS IN THE
subdued ; the former being jealous of his success,
the latter, because they had for a long time con-
sidered the inhabitants of Caracas as foreigners.
It was for this reason, that in 1815 when he re-
quired a considerable sum to enable him to
march against Castillo, his personal enemy, who
was shut up in Carthagena, it was so readily
granted him. The battle took place under the
walls of that city, here Bolivar's good fortune
abandoned him, as he was completely defeated,
and his soldiers dispersed. Being fortunate
enough to obtain permission to exile himself,
he embarked for Jamaica, whence he proceeded
to St. Domingo. Here a dutchman of the name
of Brion, assisted him with funds, and Boli-
var again set out for the continent, disembarked
at Marguerita, marched to Guyara, and amid
the deserts of that country, continued to har-
rass the generals who were sent against him from
Caracas. So many battles, attended with such
various success, together with the legislative
assemblies created in every province, had given
rise to a general ambition. Every one was
aiming at the dictatorship, and preparations were
being made on all sides to wrest it from the
hands of respective rivals, when Morillo, who
had arrived from Spain, with a well disciplined
body of troops, presented himself before Car-
thagena : this place was vigorously defended.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 139
but at last European tactics prevailed ; the
Columbians were vanquished, and the gates of
Carthagena were opened to the victor.
The respect which Spain still commanded,
was favourable to the march of the Spanish ge-
neral, and the inflexibility of his character sub-
dued all opposition. One faction only now re-
mained, that of the metropolis, Morillo marched
against the capital, which, far from making the
least opposition, received the conqueror with
transports of delight.
But these days of joy were soon changed
into those of sorrow. Spain having imagined
that the prodigious success of the convention in
1793, was only owing to the system of terror it
had adopted, imitated this fatal example in Ame-
rica. The most dreadful means were resorted
to for the purpose of intimidating the insurgents.
European pride had persuaded the greater
part of the Spanish soldiers, that the Americans
were without energy or courage ; and they con-
sequently treated them with the same contempt,
as Quesada, Pizarro, and Cortez had done the
native Indians. •
Times, however, had changed ; to men ill
armed and terrified at the sight even of the
Spaniards, had succeeded a race, mild, indeed,
in disposition, but courageous and conscious of
their equality with the inhabitants of the other
hemisphere.
140 TRAVELS IN THE
The more Americans Morillo ordered to be
shot, the more the general discontent increased.
The latter had imagined that the Spaniards
would return to the system of mildness and pa-
rental affection, which they had followed for
three centuries ; but, on the contrary, found in
them only executioners ; they had hoped the
Spaniards would regard as brothers men who
were estimable for their intelligence and ac-
quirements ; the Spaniards hastened to teach
them that knowledge only entitled them to pro-
scription and death. The Spanish generals, after
having glutted their fury and satisfied their
pride, by humbling the men of the New World,
who had dared to place themselves in competi-
tion with them, thought they had for ever in-
sured the obedience of the rest of the inhabi-
tants. Considering the silence of terror as
complete submission, they lived in the utmost
security.
RRPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. HI
CHAPTER VIII.
Samanon Viceroy — Spanish Soldiers—American Soldiers — Bolivar returns
to Santa-Fe— Proceeds to Quito— Afterwards to Guayaquil — Charac-
ter of the principal Generals.
After having reconquered New Grenada, Mo-
rillo employed himself in the pacification of
Venezuela, and every thing appearing tranquil
in the capital, he left Samanon there as viceroy.
This simple old man, faithful to the system of
barbarity and conscription, that formerly ren-
dered the name of the Duke of Alba so justly
odious, and being from his age the irrecon-
cilable antagonist of every one that opposed his
ideas, augmented the number both of the vic-
tims and of the enemies of his country. All the
Americans fearing lest they should be placed
upon the lists of the proscribed, escaped into
the open country, where Santander converted
them into soldiers.*
Morillo was soon at Caracas, where he found
a few European soldiers, but, knowing the dis-
advantages which he should experience in the
plains against the savage inhabitants, he dreaded
plunging into the forests of the Oronooko, where
* Jove, Memoria manuscr.
142 TRAVELS IN THE
he might probably encounter Bolivar, and possi-
bly get defeated.
In fact^ the Americans of the nineteenth
century, were far superior in courage and ability
to those who existed in the fifteenth, but it was
not the same case with the Spaniards ; the heat,
thirst, and the difficulty of marching through the
country, which were no obstacles to their fore-
fathers, were to them absolutely insupportable.
They no longer possessed that force of cha-
racter, that intense ardour, that unconquerable
valour, which had been transmitted to their an-
cestors with their Moorish blood. They were
unable to endure, like them, the burning heat of
the sun, while long marches with light cover-
ings so lacerated their feet, that they were often
obliged to remain shut up in the towns. Their
arms were too heavy for their strength ; they
were in want of magazines and fresh provisions;
and they would have perished with hunger, if
their general, like another Cortez, had set fire to
their vessels.
The Americans, on the contrary, marched
barefoot, and contenting themselves with a few
bananas, required no strong liquors to animate
their courage ; for, if they carried these with
them, it was to comfort those English soldiers,
who had taken part in their quarrel. Their
former dread of horses and fire-arms was anni-
hilated, and they mounted the backs of the one.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMHIA. 143
and availed themselves of the destructive powers
of the other, with a rare degree of skill. Ac-
customed, in their forests, to the pursuit either
of wild beasts, or of their flocks almost as wild,
they had acquired by this exercise the art of
avoiding dangers, or the power of despising
them, and they often employed no other wea-
pons than the lance and the snare, which they
used in the chase of savage animals.
It was then neither the antient Americans
nor the antient Spaniards, who found themselves
opposed to each other ; both had experienced a
change, and power had passed by inheritance to
the inhabitants of the New World.
Perhaps Spain would have acted wisely had
she recruited her armies, either in the islands or
upon the shores of Africa, and not have exposed
her children to a climate too hot for the consti-
tutions of Europeans ; in fact, they only possessed
either physical or mental strength, under the
temperate climate of the Cordilleras, for upon
descending into the plains, the most valiant
disgracefully took to flight.
Alarmed with such a succession of misfor-
tunes, the Spanish generals took advantage of
the jealousies of the Americans, and engaged
their assistance to fight the cause of Europe ;
but they very little understood the art of ma-
naging these ambitious men, who could not see
without displeasure their rights usurped by the
144 TRAVELS IN THE
arrival of Europeans, who were always admitted
into the array as the superiors of the native
officers, but never as their equals ; and as if this
were not sufficient to damp the exertions of
their auxiliaries, their devotion to the Spanish
cause was treated with indifference, and seldom
indeed rewarded with the least eulogium or
recompense ; on the contrary, no occasion was
allowed to escape for demanding- fresh sacrifices,
which, when made, were received with disdain.
Ignorant both of the means and of the value of
effacing these differences between the American
and the European, between the white and the
black man, the Spanish officers seemed rather
to be desirous of rendering them more conspi-
cuous, and to take pleasure in showing, by the
most marked insults, the contempt they enter-
tained for those Americans, who, by their dis-
tinguished services, had obtained the rank of
sub-lieutenant.
The soldiers of Bolivar, enrolled under the
banners of a chief of their own nation, fought
with ardor; and even his companions in arms,
siirmounting that jealousy always excited by
the elevation of an equal, were warmly attached
to him. — They but little understood the precise
meaning of the words Liberty and Independence,
but they were sensible of marks of distinction,
and Bolivar judiciously created and distributed
them. — The camps of the Spaniards were abun-
REPHBLIt; OF COLOMBIA. 14;
dantly supplied, while every thing was wantin
in 'that of tlielr opponents; yet desertions from it
were very rare, and the scarcity passed unnoticed,
for the Americans had always been accustomed
to similar privations. — At first there was some
difficulty in bringing- them to face the Spaniards,
but at length they learnt to beat them. They
also had the advantage of being perfectly ac-
quainted witli the country ; while in their fellow
countrymen, they every where found brethren,
who aided them in the pursuit of their object, or
concealed them when threatened witlj danger.
The horses, well broken in were under more
command than those belonging to the Spaniards,
and like their masters could endure long fasts
without much injury. Their arms were rude,
but the address with which they were managed
rendered them terrible. The chiefs possessed the
same turbulent activity as the private soldiers,
and knowing besides their habits, their sports,
and their manners, far from wearying them with
an oppressive discipline, they showed themselves
to be their fellow warriors by participating in
the same pleasures.
This management of his troops was the
great art of Bolivar ; his partisans in their en-
thusiasm have compared him to Caesar, but he
much more nearly resembles Sertorius. Like
him, he had to reduce a savage people to obe-
dience, and to combat a powerful and ex-
L
14() TRAVELS IN THK
perienced nation. The places of contest were
nearly alike, for there was, in this portion of
America, the same difficulties to surmount in the
badness of the roads, and the height of the
mountains, as existed in Spain in the time of
Sertorius. Like him, Bolivar, disconcerted his
enemies by the rapidity of his marches, by the
suddenness of his attacks, and by the celerity of
his flights, which rendered it easy for him to re-
pair his defeats at a distance. In the mountains,
he displayed the same activity as in the plains,
and set an example of sobriety and temperance
to his troops, wliose numbers he thus increased
from those of a small band until they formed
a powerful and irresistible army. If his military
tactics were different from those of the Spaniards,
his conduct was still more so. He knew how to
gain the affections of mankind, by pardoning
the vanquished and those who had deserted the
cause of their country ; thus he increased their
numbers. The priests even did not refuse him
their prayers, for he respected their ministry,
which had often been despised by the Spaniards,
since their wars with the French ; and finally, by
flattering the pride of the Americans, in con-
stantly extolling their valour and intelligence, he,
by these encomiums, rendered the disdain with
which the Spaniards treated them still more in-
supportable. Morillo was therefore little desi-
rous of encountering on the banks of the Oro-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 147
nooko, Miis able chief endowed with the talents
of William of Nassau, to whom the Low Coun-
tries were indebted for their liberation in the reign
of Philip the II ; and he turned his arms with
more hopes of success againt the Isle of Mar-
g-uerita, peopled with fifteen thousand men of
colour, and commanded by Irismendi an officer
of great bravery.
This bulwark of American independence
proved fatal to Morillo. His army was comple-
tely defeated, and being obliged to return to
Caracas, to his great chagrin he found himself
confined to this place, nearly all his soldiers
having been either slain in the field or laid up in
the hospitals.
He was in this situation when three thou-
sand men arrived from Spain, under the com-
mand of brigadier general Canterac, but he
did not avail himself of this reinforcement until
1818, when he entered Calabozo. Bolivar who, for
many months, had been wandering in the plains of
Casanara, surprised him here in the night, and
pursued him to the gates of Valentia.
The Spaniards being here reinforced, attacked
Bolivar in their turn, put him to the rout, and
forced him to retreat once more to the province
of Casanara. He there found new recruits ; its
ferocious inhabitants eagerly desired to be led
to battle. These shepherds, whose flocks from
their wild state scarcely needed masters, were
l2
148 TRAVELS IN THE
always ready to march when the hope of pillage
was held out to them.
In 1819, Bolivar offered them that of Santa-
F^ ; they immediately cleared the icy paramos
of the Cordilleras, and near Sogamoso found
the advanced guard of the army of the vice-
roy, who had advanced upon receiving news of
Bolivar's enterprise. This however proved uo
check to the latter, who under favour of the night
escaped Barrel ra, general of the Spanish troops,
and leaving him behind him, proceeded by forced
marches upon Santa-F^. Barreira, fearing lest
Bolivar should enter this place, and, that favoured
by a numerous party, he should make himself
master of it, followed him with all expedition,
and encountered him at Boyaca, a place situated
nearTunja. After a sanguinary contest, Barreira
was completely defeated, and was taken prisoner
with twenty eight officers, who were all shot by
Bolivar's orders. This was the first act of re-
prisals of the Americans against the Spaniards;
it has not been the only one.
The disgraceful flight of Samanon and the re-
capture of the chief town of the Cordilleras, by
the inhabitants of the plains, enabled Bolivar
to realize his promises to them ; warehouses full
of goods together with the cash and jewels of
those who had taken part with the Spaniards,
were the recompense of this expedition.
Bolivar was no longer an obscure partizan ;
lU:PlJJiLIC OF COLOMHIA. 149
to have escaped, altliougb beaten, from Mori lie,
to have seized upon tlie capital of the empire, and
driven thence the representative of his king, to
have defeated, with a few savages, eight thousand
regular troops, elevated the conqueror of IJoyaca
to a formidable rank in the public opinion.
He was now left tranquilly to increase the
splendour of his fame, for which, in the sequel, he
was less indebted to his arms than to his policy,
which more peaceably terminated the year 1821.
Master of Santa-Fe, Bolivar quickly re-
descended into the plains of Caracas ; frequent
encounters took place between his soldiers and
those of Morillo ; but the success was nearly
equal. The chief of the independants was how-
ever more fortunate in an interview which he
had with the Spanish general, for he induced
him to agree upon a truce for six months ; this
the Americans violated by seizing Maracaibo.
When hostilities recommenced, Morillo had re-
turned to Spain, and was succeeded in the com-
mand of the army by Latorre. This general was
attacked at Carabobo by Bolivar, and being less
favored by fortune than his predecessor, was put
to flight, and only escaped the enemy by taking
refuge within the walls of Puerto Cabello.
Thus in 1821, Spain from despising the
advice which had been given her of engaging
Europe to support her in her contest with the
American colonies by sharing them with her.
150 TRAVELS IN THE
had lost her troops and her treasures in en-
deavouring to regain those countries, the con-
quest of which had formerly been effected without
arms or money. No further resistance was offered
to the authority of the dictator Bolivar ; a con-
gress having assembled at Cucuta to regulate the
basis of a new government, and the disorganizing
principles of a federation between the insurgent
provinces being buried in oblivion, all ambition
ceased.
The war however again broke out in the
south ; and although at first it was considered
only as a rebellion, it afterwards assumed the
aspect, and brought with it all the horrors, of
a civil war. Many that had fought against the
Spaniards now began to regret their govern-
ment, and preferred obeying masters rather than
equals whose pride rendered them insupportable.
Many partisans of the confederation, who had
hoped to obtain new dignities under this regime,
saw with regret that they had contributed towards
tlie destruction of the Spanish dominion, without
reaping any of those advantages from the revo-
lution which they had expected. Even the con-
querors after having re-united the provinces of
the plains and those of the mountains under the
same government, ridiculed the founders of the
former republic, by designating it patria hoba,
or the country of fools ; under which name were
comprehended all the adherents of Narino.
RKI'UBLIC OF COLOMIJIA. 15 1
Recourse was therefore had to arms, and
in 1822, the insurrection of Pasto seemed to re-
quire the presence of Bolivar himself with five
thousand men.
The chain of mountains which intersect this
province affords an easy means of defence; craggy
rocks, deep marshes, and impenetrable forests,
inspire the inhabitants with a boldness always
fatal to invaders. Bolivar attempted it, but found
insurmountable obstacles both in the local dif-
ficulties and the courage of the people; having
nearly fallen into their hands, he escaped swear-
ing to respect their liberty, and to allow them if
they choose to obey the Spaniards. On this con-
dition, which he bound himself to observe by
the most solemn oaths he was permitted to with-
dravv.
A short time afterwards, at the head of fresh
forces, he again entered the province, and after
subduing it, marched to the assistance of his
lieutenant Sucre who dared not attack Quito
with the few troops under his command.
Aimerichs, a covetous old man was now at
the liead of the Spanish army, and conducted them
against Bolivar ; but, paralyzed by age, he was
unable to obtain the least success with troops,
who being chiefly composed of Americans, paid
no respect to a man so destitute of capacity : all
was consequently in confusion, and his orders
were continually either neglected or misunder-
152 TRAVELS IN THE
Stood. There was indeed no discipline in either
army ; but the esteem in which Bolivar was held,
supplied its place, and produced an obedient
respect for his person.
The Spaniards, or rather the American Spa-
niards, were thus soon put to flight by the inde-
pendent Americans in a battle which took the
name of Pitchincha, from its being fought in the
vicinity of that dreadful volcano. The whole of
the province was quickly subdued, and the re-
mainder of the Spanish troops only saved their
lives by soliciting the favour either of exiling
themselves, or of betraying their standards :
both conditions were granted them ; a small num-
ber preferred misfortune to dishonour; the greater
part, however, sided with the conqueror, and
more than four hundred European Spaniards took
the oath of fidelity to him.
Guayaquil, which, under the Spanish govern-
ment, had at one time been given to Peru, and
at another to New Grenada, still hesitated which
party to embrace ; but Bolivar soon fixed its
indecision, and, marcliing against this opulent
city, included it among those of the republic
founded by him.
The American generals who have most dis-
tinguished themselves in all these wars are : Bo-
livar, Santander, Sucre, Urdaneta, Bermudes,
Paes, Montilla, and Padilla. — Bolivar is forty-
two years of age ; his military abilities, and his
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 153
political character, have already been considered;
his disinterestedness is greatlyextoUed, ids income
being- principally devoted to the payment of the
pensions which he allows to the widows and
children of the soldiers who have fallen in battle.
Although his education had been much ne-
glected, a residence of some length in Europe
had given to him a taste for languages and his-
tory, in which he made a rapid progress, lie
has already been compared to Sertorius ; and,
in fact, his manner of making war, his long
marches to come up witli his enemy, together
with the quickness with which he traverses
immense distances, give an idea rather of a bold
partisan than of a general competent to the
wielding of large masses ; two thousand more
men would probably have embarrassed his
plans.
Nor is he supposed to possess more pro-
found views in the art of governing. He has
hitherto contented himself with founding a re-
public, which is but a bad imitation of that of
the United States, and which he can only main-
tain by a standing army. This is chiefly com-
posed of shepherds, who followed him from the
plains to the heights of Santa-Fe ; it is in this
portion of his troops that he places his chief con-
fidence, and as the greater part of them belong
to the cast of mulattoes, he is obliged to pay them
great attention and to conciliate them by frequent
rewards.
154 TRAVELS IN THE
A happy chance has hitherto rendered him
invulnerable ; his enemies, therefore, say that
he possesses no courage ; but can this be the
case with him who aspires to the supreme go-
vernment ? He is not wanting in eloquence, for
his speeches possess great warmth of sentiment,
though they are often diffuse ; but this it must be
admitted, is a fault difficult to be avoided in the
Spanish language.
He married in early youth, in Spain, and a
few years afterwards lost his wife, since which
he appears determined to pass the remainder
of his days as a widower. The possession of a
throne has not yet tempted him. Miranda said,
that America was not destined to be a republic ;
and Bolivar does not think it calculated to be-
come a kingdom worthy of vying with those of
Europe.
The title of Liberator, by which he distin-
guishes himself, is new in modern languages,
and is synonymous with those of dictator and
protector. His tyranny has not yet been com-
plained of, and had he not now begun to exile
the discontented, and to confiscate their property,
the only thing he could have been reproached
with would have been, that he has sometimes
used reprisals in war.
Santander was very young when he entered
the army. Narino distinguished him, and made
him a lieutenant : he afterwards marched against
this general with Bai-raia. When the Spaniards
REPUBLIC OF COLOMKIA. 155
were in possession of Santa-F^, he established
himself in the plains of Meta, where he formed a
band of three thousand men, with which he after-
wards joined Bolivar ; a reinforcement which
powerfully contributed towards gaining- the battle
of Boyaca. His well-known firmness gave him a
title to the vice-presidency, in which situation he
has displayed the possession of such talents and
merit as are seldom to be found.
Sucre is not yet thirty years of age, and, like
Santander, has acquired his distinctions by gain-
ing a battle for Bolivar, namely, that of Pitch in-
cha, which procured him the post of command-
ant-general of Quito.
Urdanita, descended from a respectable
family at Santa-F^, has the merit of possessing
much courage ; he has been ill for some time,
and seems to have retired from the service by ac-
cepting the presidency of the senate.
Bermudes, fifty years of age, was born at
Cumana, and entered early into the American
revolution, in which he has acquired an influence
which though considerable, is not however equal
to that of some of his companions in arms.
A khan of Tartars, an Arabian sheik, has
given the rudest shocks to the Spanish power in
America. — The mulatto Paes, at the head of a
few thousands of his savage lancers, has often
defeated whole squadrons of disciplined troops;
particularly the hussars of Ferdinand VII. This
156 TRAVELS IN THIv
man^ who, upon the banks of the Oronooko,
might easily play the part of Artigas upon those
of La Plata, remains faithful to Bolivar, whose
generous conduct and affable manners have
gained his attachment.
Paes affects great luxury and particular po-
liteness ; yet, not\vithstanding the vanity natural
to a savage, he lives upon terms of perfect equa-
lity ^vith his troops ; when he is with them, their
food, their games, and their exercises, are his
own. No one rides a horse better than he, or
wields a lance with more dexterity, or attacks an
enemy with more fury. He thus possesses abso-
lute power over his undisciplined hordes, who,
tractable towards a leader that sets them an
example of courage, obey him with the submis-
sion of slaves. His fortune has been considerably
augmented by numerous gifts, and thus Spain
has been deprived of a man, who has become the
terror of her troops.
Montilla, the rival of the chief of the Llanos,
formerly served in the body-guard in Spain, and
expected to find in the revolution the means of
improving his fortune. The influence he enjoys
appears dangerous in the eyes of the government ;
and, although he has been stationed at Cartha-
gena, he is still too near to Caracas, where the
persons of influence are desirous of opposing a
chief to Bolivar, and would willingly choose
Montilla : his manners are very prepossessing,
ri:public op Colombia. 157
and having been educated in Europe, he ex-
presses himself with facility, an advantage not
common to the majority of Colombians.
He is accused of falsehood, and his reserve
and apparent contradictions are considered as
proofs of duplicity ; but it is his ambition which
fears discovery and endeavours to conceal itself.
It is also known that he has some causes of ha-
tred which are rarely ever forgotten. He cer-
tainly must bear in mind, that Bolivar, in 1811,
in a moment of passion, swore to shoot him if he
could lay hold of him ; and, confounding Miran-
da with the patriotic party, he will doubtless re-
collect, that this general had promised to expose
him for twenty-four hours to public view in an
iron cage.
The mulatto Padilla is a general whose ser-
vices have not been without advantage to Ame-
rican independence. This pilot of Carthagena,
raised by the revolution to the command of a
flotilla, contributed more than any one else to
the captui-e of Carthagena from the Spaniards,
and subsequently that of MaracaTbo. Sacrificed
at first to the party that Montilla wishes to de-
fend, he has since been re-established with a
fresh degree of importance; a circumstance
which has produced great joy among the people
of colour, who were not ignorant that the dispute
between the two generals was a quarrel of colour.
All these men, at present the subalterns of
158 TRAVELS IN THE
Bolivar, appear rather his equals than his lieute-
nants ; but, after his death, or even after a de-
feat, it is possible they may put themselves at
the head of the party that they have secured to
their interests. It is in this particular that Boli-
var will most resemble Alexander. Paes, with
his negroes, will occupy the plains ; Montilla,
Caracas ; Padilla, the coasts ; and Sucre, Quito.
Thus all depends upon the existence of Bolivar.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 159
CHAPTER IX.
The new government — Constitution of Cucuta — Division of the country
into departments — Renewal of the Cabildos — Civil laws — Justice^
Congress — The Executive Power.
When the Spaniards had abandoned the Ame-
rican territory, Bolivar, supreme master of all
the country, abdicated the dictatorship ; but
*. perhaps in divesting himself of this power, he
only made himself more certain of exercising it.
He afterwards enployed himself in forming- a
government for the provinces of Caracas, and
New Grenada, and in cementing their unions
in order to make but one republic under the
name of Colombia.
A congress at San-Toma (Guyana) had al-
ready, on the 17th of December 1819, formed one
upon the model of that of the United States ;
but this was designed only for the province of
Venezuela.
A fresh congress was therefore assembled at
Cucuta, on the 18th of July 1821, and the re-
union of the two provinces of New Grenada,
and of Venezuela was here decreed. The first
however preserved its ancient supremacy, because
the seat of government was fixed at Santa-F^,
160 TRAVELS IN THE
although it was ultimately resolved that it
should be established at Cucuta, in bestowing
on that town the name of Bolivar.
Venezuela, the birth place of the chief of
the republic, possessed all the appointments.
On the 30th of August 1821, the constitution
of Colombia was proclaimed at Cucuta. It is
composed of ten chapters, and one hundred
and ninety articles, of which the following are
the principal :*
The government of Colombia is that of a
popular representation.
In each parish there is an assembly of the
people, which meets every four years on the last
Sunday in the month of July.
The right of voting belongs to every Co-
lombian, who has attained twenty one years
of age, who can read and write, and who pos-
sesses the sum of one hundred piastres.
The members of this assembly name the
electors of the cantons, who must be twenty-
five years of age, possess land of the value
of five hundred piastres, or an income of three
hundred piastres.
These electors of the canton, form the pro-
vincial assembly which meets every four years
on the first of October. Their office is to elect
the president and vice-president of the republic,
* Cuerpo de Leyes de la republica de Colombia.
IIKPUULIC OF COLOMBIA. IGl
tlie senators of the department, and the repre-
sentative or representatives of the province.
Tlie electors exercise their functions for four
years.
The legislative power is confided to a con-
gress divided into two chambers, that of the
senate and that of the representatives.
The requisite qualifications of a senator, are,
his being a native Creole of thirty years of age,
his possessing a property of four thousand dollars
in land or an annual revenue of five hundred
dollars, or his exercising a learned profession ;
or, if the candidate be a foreigner, he must
have resided in the country twelve years, and
must possess landed property to the value of
sixteen thousand dollars.
Four senators are named for each depart-
ment ; the duration of tlieir functions is, for two
of them, eight years, and for the other two,
only four years. The ditterences are to be decid-
ed by lot, so that, according to tlie law, one
half of the senate may be renewed every four
years.
The impeachment of the public function-
aries belongs exclusively to the senate.
The chamber of representatives is composed
of deputies elected in the ratio of one for 30,000
souls ; but there are some provinces where this
number is not necessary. When the number of
one hundred representatives is completed, the
M
162 TRAVELS IN THE
elections are to be continued, if permitted by
the increase of the population^ at the rate of
one deputy for 40,000, or even for 50,000 souls,
until the chamber be increased to one hundred
and fifty deputies.
To be a deputy the person must be twenty-
five years of age, and a landed proprietor to
the amount of two thousand dollars, or 500
dollars of income, or a professor ; a residence of
two years in the country before the time of elec-
tion, or of eight years, if not born in Colombia
is also required, and in the latter case the quali-
fication is increased to ten thousand dollars of
landed property.
The chamber of representatives has an exclu-
sive right of impeaching before the senate, the
president, vice president, and ministers of the
republic.
Publicity of discussion, the exclusion of all
the principal public officers from the legislative
functions, and the inviolability of the mem-
bers during the existence of their term of elec-
tion, with an allowance* for their expenses, are
articles common to both cliambers.
The principal business of the legislative
body is to fix the expenses of the state ; to
* The representatives receive nine dollars per day, during
the whole time of the sessions, besides one dollar per day for
their travelling- expenses from their residence to the place
where the congress meets.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 163
levy taxes ; to decree the necessary loans, the
value of the current coin, the creation or suppres-
sion of public employments, witli the amount of
the salaries ; the raising and organization of the
armies ; to declare war and peace, and the limits
of territory ; and, in fine, to establish the courts
of justice, and to grant the dictatorship to the
executive power.
A president and vice president, whose func-
tions last for four years, and who cannot be
elected more than once, compose the executive
power, the former receives thirty thousand, and
the latter sixteen thousand dollars per annnin ;
in case of death, their functions are to be exer-
cised by the president of the senate.
The president, who is not permitted to leave
the territory of the republic, assembles tfie con-
gress and commands the armies ; he has the
power of opposing his veto to any law projected
for the first time, but when a majority of two
thirds of the legislative body has accepted it, he
is forced to give liis consent ; he has the right in
concert with the judges to commute all capital
punishments.
His council is composed of the vice president,
and the minister of the high court of justice, with
the ministers of foreign affairs, of the interior, of
the finances, of the navy, and of war, whose duty
it is to give the congress, either verbally or in
writing, every explanation that may be required
M 2
164 TRAVELS IN THE
of them. The salary of these secretaries of state
is six thousand dollars.
The third branch of the executive power, but
the least effective, though the most necessary, is
the high court of justice participating of the
French council of state and court of cassation.
The high court of justice is composed of five
members, viz. three judges, and two fiscals, who
must possess the three indispensable qualities of
being electors, counsellors of law, and of being
thirty years of age.
The high court of justice decides respecting
the claims of foreigners, and pronounces upon
the difficulties or errors which may have arisen
in the inferior tribunals. Notwithstanding the
importance of these functions, the members are
appointed by the senate, upon the presentation
of the president, after the names of the candi-
dates have been canvassed by the chamber of re-
presentatives. The duration of their employ-
ment is guaranteed to them, as loug as their
conducl gives satisfaction, a condition which leaves
open a vast field to the arbitrary will of the
senate. Other inferior courts will be established
throughout the republic to facilitate the admi-
nistration of justice ; the members will be no-
minated by the president.
The territory of the republic has been divided
into seven departments, each containing a certain
number of provinces subdivided into cantons.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA.
1()5
The following is a list of them, to wliicli have
been added the computed state of the population
of each province and department, the nuniher of
senators elected for each department, and the
I)laccs in which the commissioners reside.
According to this table the population of Co-
lombia should be 2,644,600 souls,=^ but another
author-f reckons them only at 2,500,000. It is dif-
ficult to give any exact calculation on this point,
* Consequently less considerable than that of Egypt, al-
though the country is more extensive,
t See note the find.
NAMF.S
NAMES
Popula-
Popula
NUMBER
NUMBER
PLACES
of tlic
of the
tion of
each
tion of
each
of senators
cleclcd by
ofrepresenta
lives electee
of residence
of the com-
de]iarlmcnts.
provinces.
prov.
dep.
each dep.
by each |irov
missioners.
r Guyana.
'1.5,000
2
Oronooko.
y Cumana.
S Barcelona.
' Marguerita.
70,000
45,000
1.5,000
175,000
4
2
2
1
Cumana.
Venezuela,
: Caracas.
: Varinas.
t Coro.
3.50,000
Bo.OOO
30,000
430,000
4
12
3
1
Caracas.
Sulia.
ITrujillo.
33,400
4
1
MaracaVbo.
i Merida.
50,000
162,100
2
' MaracaVbo.
48,000
2
' Tunja.
300,000
7
Bogota.
) Socorro.
100,000
4
5
Tu 'ja.
1 Pamplona.
75,000
444,000
3
, Casanare.
19,000
1
1
' Bogota.
172,000
6
Cuiidinamarca. <
1 Antjoquia.
104,000
4
i
1 Mari(|uita.
45,000
371,000
2
Bogota.
(
. Neiba.
50,000
2
Caiica.
: Popayan.
; Choco
171,000
22,000
193,200
4
6
1
P<'l>ayan.
Magdalena.
<
; Carihagena.
Santa .Martha
Kioliacha.
170,000
62,300
7,000
239,500
4
6
2
1
Carihagena.
Panama.
50,000
Veragua.
30,000
Uuito.
150,000
Guijos.TndMacos.
as, 000
Cuenca.
78,000
Jacn.
13,000
Mainas
.36,000
I.oxa
48,000
Guayarjuil.
90,000
166
TRAVCLS IN THE
for who is able to reckon the tribes that have been
ranged, without their consent, in the number of
Colombians, and who, by turns monarchical Spa-
niards, or republican Colombians, live equally
independent of both these powers ?
Another division called maritime has also
been established, and the coasts have been di-
vided into four departments.
The first comprehends Guyana, Cumana,
Barcelona, and the island of Marguerita.
The second, the coasts of Caracas, Coro and
Maracaibo.
The third, Riohacha, Santa-Martha and
Carthagena.
The fourth, the coasts of Atrato as far as
those of Veragua.
Nothing has been determined respecting the
coasts of the Pacific Ocean.
A commandant-general and an auditor of
marine govern each province.
The administration of each department is
committed to a commissioner named by the pre-
sident ; the salary of the commissioners is six
thousand dollars per annum, and their functions
cease at the end of three years. A practitioner
in the law is attached to them as an assessor.
Each province has a governor, who is under
the orders of the commissioner, and whose pow-
ers cease at the same time as his own.
The cantons are under the direction of civil
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMIJIA. H)7
judges or sub -prefects (formerly called corrcgi-
dors). The cantons arc subdivided into cabil-
dos or municipalities, of which the alcaids are
the representatives.
There are two alcaids in each chief town of
a canton, and two inferior ones in each parish ;
their duties consist in maintaining good order
and tranquillity. They are charged with the
superintendance of the primary schools, and the
hospitals ; with the repairs of roads and pri-
sons ; with the cleanliness of the towns, and
with the distribution of encouragement to com-
merce and industry.
It is recommended to them, by the forty-
eighth article of the law upon the organization
of the departments, to be obedient lo the civil
judges, and to all other superior authorities.
Three years ago, the cabildos were filled
by men inimical to the new system, but it has
now been decided that the primary assemblies of
the year 1822, should renew every appointment,
and that henceforth these bodies should them-
selves proceed as formerly, to nominate their
successors.
Colombia comprises two archbishoprics, that
of Caracas, and that of Santa-Fc, botli of which
are vacant. Their suffragans are the ten bishop-
rics of Popayan, Carthagena, Santa- Mart iia?
Merida, Guyana, Antioquia, Quito, Cuenca^
Maynas, and Panama, these three last have been
168 TRAVFLS IN THE
detached from tlie archbishopric of Lima, and
it is intended to form them into an aichbishop-
ric at Quito.
The sees of Maynas, Cuenca^ Santa-Martha,
Antioquia, and Guyana are vacant. Those of
Carthag-ena and Quito are being filled up*.
The congress of Cucuta displayed an ex-
traordinary activity, for they did not restrain
themselves to the fundamental laws which have
been noticed, but decreed a number of additional
ones. They abolished the duties upon pass-
ports, as well as those paid by the washers of
gold, and the tribute levied upon the Indians.
They framed a very long regulation upon the
direct contributions, with another upon the con-
scription ; gave the property of suppressed con-
vents to the schools ; destroyed the inquisition,
and consigned to the archbishops and bishops
the judgment of the causes appertaining- to that
tribunal. Amongst their decrees may be re-
marked many against the moderalists and the
disaffected, whom they finally expelled from the
territory of the republic. They abolished the
duties of transport, and of excise upon the pro-
ductions of the country, and reduced these im-
posts to a duty of two and a half per cent upon
foreign commodities.
Tliey promulgated a law upon the enfran-
chisement of slaves, which had at first been
* See Note III.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. \(VJ
solicited by the congress of Venezuela, and af-
terwards rejected by this province and that of
Popayan, as being dangerous and pernicious to
the prosperity of the state. They decreed the
right of personal liberty and the liberty of the
press ; the confiscation of the property of emi-
grants, and the coining of platina and copper
money. They granted a general licence for dis-
tillation, upon the payment of two piastres per
month, and five dollars for each cantara of bran-
dy ; they also permitted the retailing of it upon
paying two piastres per month.
Their most important law was that upon
stamped paper, which they divided into four
classes. That of the first pays twenty-four dol-
lars ; the second, eighteen ; the third, twelve ;
and the fourth, six. All instruments, even peti-
tions are written on this paper. Lastly, tliey
enacted that the nation should have the right
of reforming or remodelling the constitution
within ten years, from the year 1821, during
which period the republic of Colombia is to be
governed by this prodigious number of decrees,
regulations, and laws.
The executive power is more enlightened
than the congress. It is often called upon to
correct the numerous errors in the decrees of this
first branch of the state ; in other respects, a
sufficient understanding prevails through the
ditferent members of the administration. Am-
170 TRAVELS IN THE
bition not finding men at hand, capable of
comprehending or supporting it, affects devotion
to the cause, and does not separate itself from
the mass of the nation.
A people familiarized with monarchical ha-
bits, might, perhaps, have been more easily
advanced by means of a simpler form of govern-
ment ; thus notwithstanding the wisest inten-
tions, the four or five persons that actually com-
pose the government are but ill obeyed.
Many other reasons contribute also to the
same result ; amongst which may be reckoned
the different castes, and the claims of a few
generals, with whom, although their demands
are sometimes exorbitant, it is necessary to pre-
serve a friendly understanding, as they have it
in their power to subvert the present established
form of government.
The so much desired reunion of Caracas
and New Grenada, has increased the public bur-
dens, without augmenting the means of support-
ing these expenses.
The province of New Grenada, which con-
tains very few blacks in comparison with the white
population, voted for their enfranchisement;
while Venezuela being overstocked with this
mutinous people, demands that they should again
be marie slaves. Caracas complains that its ser-
vices have been rewarded by placing the capital
in a province formerly its rival. 8anta-F^ ac-
RKPUIILIC OF COLOMIUA. 171
kno\vk'(lg;es that it has received the barren pri-
vilege of being, as formerly, the seat of govern-
ment, while the employments and money are
reserved for the intriguing people of Venezuela.
Guayaquil wished to be an hanseatic and in-
dependant town, and the riches it receives forms
at present one of the greatest revenues of a re-
public which it could purchase.
Pasto, covered with mountains, desires to
preserve the independance which Bolivar had
recognized when he wished to escape from the
hands of its ferocious inhabitants. Even the
Indians demand leave to pay again their tri-
bute, whilst others are hurt at having tlieir name
of Guagires changed into that of Colombians,
without their consent; as if the republic had
inherited them as a conquest made from Spain.
The blacks cry out for liberty, the mulattoes,
for the extinction of prejudices; the Indian mu-
lattoes, for the termination of the war ; and the
Indians, for the restoration of their privileges. A
rupture threatens to divide each province.
In Venezuela, Montilla is the hope of the
great white families. Paes at the head of his ca-
valry is the hero of the people of colour, and
Sucre might desire to be something more than
the mere creature of Bolivar, in the southern
provinces which his ability has reduced.
Such are the difficulties which the govern-
ment has to surmount, and which it combats with
172 TRAVELS IN THE
considerable ability; but it is sometimes obliged
to abandon the pul)lic revenues to the avidity of
the principal chiefs, and to leave private fortunes
to be plundered by their favorites. Besides which,
far from accomplishing its wish of bringing the
clergy into discredit, this order has increased
in spite of government, for many enter into it,
as into an inviolable asylum.
The different branches of government must
necessarily languish in the midst of so many dis-
orders, arising from the fury of a civil war, re-
kindled from time to time in different places ; at
Maracaibo, at Puerto-Cabello, at Santa-Martha,
at Pasto, and in many parts of the plains of the
Oronooko.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 173
CHAPTER X.
Return to Bogota — Puentc Real — Copper mines of Moniquira— Chiquin-
quira— -Salt mines of Zipaquira.
After making a stay of five days in the ca-
pital of Socorro, I resumed my route to Bogota,
and at an early hour traversed the pleasant vil-
lage of Las Palmas, Following at a distance
the lofty chain of Opon, upon whicii many liabi-
tations may be perceived, we had to cross a bridge ;
here a toll of 3 sous was to be paid, from whicli
however I was exempted by the address of a na-
tive with whom I was travelling, and who, un-
known to me, passed me off as an officer of the
republic ; a title which supersedes all payment :
such an abuse is however ill calculated for the
encouragement of useful enterprises. The bridges
in the province of Socorro, are of a very simple
construction, and for their preservation are cover-
ed in with a tiled roof.
In the evening I entered Guadalupe, this
village is situated on a plateau already elevated,
as indicated by tne thermometer which was only
at 15°. This change is also, in a great measure,
owing to the storms which continually rage here;
the air is sharper ; no goitres are to be seen. Tlie
next day, we descended upon the unhealthy banks
of the Suarez ; as, at Socorro, the thermometer
174 TRAVELS IN THE
stood at 20". The waters of this river are very
dangerous, generally causing fever to those
wlio bathe in them. A sudden indisposition
with which I was attacked, in the midst of these
unwholesome regions, from inhaling the air loaded
with putrid effluvia and myriads of insects, con-
vinced me that the report of my boatmen was
but too well founded. I therefore hastened to
quit them, and in proportion as I ascended into a
purer atmosphere the inconvenience I felt gra-
dually diminished, till upon my arriving at San-
Bendito (14°. R.), I found myself quite well. Tliis
village is entirely built with the fossils of am-
monites of which the neighbouring mountains are
full. A lead mine has been discovered in an
adjoining village, called Guadera.
Upon leaving this village, I continued tra-
versing more elevated places, filled likewise with
fossils ; but as these mountains are all composed of
schistus, the road, in consequence of the rains,
had become almost impassable. This bank of fos-
sils which commences between Guadalupe and
San-Bendito extends as far as Moniquira; some
scattered layers are found in the province of Tunja.
They follow the curve described by the chain of
Opon, from the 74th to the 75th degree of west
longitude. We slept at Puente Real, a village now
in ruins. Stuffs were formerly manufactured there,
which were as much esteemed for the brilliancy
of their colours as those of Cucuy ; but all tlie
workmen have disappeared, and the manufactures
REPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 175
witli tliciij. Piientc Real sends some of its i)ro-
diice up the Magdalena, by the route of Velez,
the first town founded by tlie Spaniards in New
Grenada. Formerly the communication witli the
river was by the road of Curare, where a very
rich gold mine called Corcobada, has been disco-
vered ; this route has now been abandoned on
account of the diseases which proved fatal to the
majority of travellers.
Puente Real is the limit of the political
frontier of Socorro, in fixing wliich the go-
vernment has judiciously followed the sugges-
tions of nature. In â– fact, that opening of the
Cordillera, which forms the province of So-
corro, the declivity of which is directed from
Moniquira to San Gil, here becomes narrower,
and the traveller finds himself among the moun-
tains which till then extended like immense
walls upon his right and left ; those of the east-
ern side, being known by the name of Serinsa,
those on the western by that of Opon. Tlie in-
fluence of the rainy north-east winds begins to
diminish at Puente Real, and a little higher,
they become the bearers of fine weather.
The valley of Socorro must be rich in me-
tals, excepting gold, which is not supposed to
be very abundant. Its numerous strata of
schistus contain iron and copper in large quan-
tities
Quitting the road from Puente Real to Bogo-
I7f) TRAVELS IN THE
ta for that of Moniquira, whicli is in a south
south-east direction, I began to traverse the
vallies which intersect the higher parts of the Cor-
dilleras ; the roads were dreadful ; for, the de-
clivity of the mountains which I was ascending,
being precisely the point most exposed to the
clouds of the north-west, and one upon which
they burst with the greatest violence, the whole of
the surrounding country is an immense marsh,
into which one sinks at every step. The soil
is however the more fertile, and the natives
assiduously cultivate it ; but of what avail is
so much abundance ? surrounded on all sides
by fields covered with luxurious vegetation, the
wretched huts of these people, present the extre-
mity of misery. This sight is the more striking,
on arriving from Socorro, whose inhabitants
are much more wealthy and happier. Great
numbers of Indians are seen here, as if these
people had reserved to themselves the places
where the severity of the climate placed a bar-
rier between them and their masters.
Moniquira is perceived afar oif; a solitary
palm-tree raises its head in the middle of the
town ; a signal by which it is recognised at a
great distance. I entered just at the same time
with a man who was conducting two chil-
dren with their hands tied behind their backs.
Upon seeing me, they threw themselves at my
feet ; I gave them some money, which they
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 177
received with inucli surprise, for as they took
me for an officer of the republic, they did not
expect to have been even noticed. Notwithstand-
ing- their wan and yellow complexions, which in-
dicated long- fast and excessive fatigue, they
gave the money to their mother, who followed
weeping most bitterly.
The physiognomy of their conductor was
harsh in the extreme, and could only be exceeded
in brutality by his language. On hearing him,
I involuntarily recollected the slave merchants
wiiom 1 had seen on the African coast, driving-
their victims before them in flocks. This recruit-
ing- officer was asked in my presence, why he had
brought such tender soldiers ? " It is not my fault,"
replied he, '* nothing else was to be found at
Santa-Anna ; every one fled on my arrival."
This was not the only afflicting sight I wit-
nessed at Moniquira. The dungeons were
filled with conscripts torn in a similar manner
from their families. Crowds of women, the
mothers, wives or sisters of these unfortunates,
besieged the gates of the prison, anxious to get
conveyed to them all they could procure from
the pity of the inhabitants of Moniquira.
Quitting this unfortunate village the next
morning, I directed my steps towards the cop-
per mine, at the risk of disappearing amid the
deep marshes, which obstruct all the roads.
As we apj)roaclied the mine, we remarked that
N
178 TRAVELS IN THE
the gi'cater part of the quartz rocks, with whieli
the country is filled, were covered with oxoid
of copper. We at length reached the mine ;
all was dry here, the rain had entirely ceased;
we were in a different region. Domingo Corre-
dor, the proprietor of the mine, had the polite-
ness to conduct me thither, and we descended
by means of pieces of wood fixed in a rope.
This mine is situated on the banks of a river.
There are but three miners employed ; the
produce of the mine is therefore only estimated
at two hundred arrobas of copper in eighteen
months.*
This mine was purchased for four thousand
piastres, and, if worked in a more scientific
manner, would probably produce immense pro-
fits. But in its present state, it only produces suf-
ficient for the consumption of the surrounding
province.
On quitting this mine, the traveller crosses
the Moniquira, where great numbers of otters
are caught ; he then traverses Ecce Homo, a
village quite deserted, and arrives at Suta, very
rich in nitrous earth. The valley of Suta is
very agreeable, its verdure flourishing, and its
temperature milder than the rest of the province
of Tunja: it is bounded on the south by a very
high mountain, on which are a number of small
* The «;apital sunk in this tnino docs not proihin* more
than three per rent.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMIUA. 179
crosses : this is the road traversed by pilgrims on
their way to Chiquinquira ; we met several of
them; their noisy mirth, tiieir songs, and bursts
of laughter, were sufficient proofs that no ideas
of austerity were associated with this pilgrimage,
but that, on the contrary, it is a species of amuse-
ment.
It was not till the r2th tliat I could enter the
Notre Dame de Lorette of Colombia. The church
of Chiquinquira is built upon a regular plan ; its
interior is very simple. I had expected to have
seen it filled with ftll the riches of the countiy,
but I only found a few silver plates covering
the altar ; this last was decked with flowers,
and numerous censers exhaled perfumes which
scented the whole edifice. The image of the
Virgin is placed behind two gold embroidered
curtains.
One of the sacristans drew them with trem-
bling hand, and I contemplated the sacred image
at my leisure : it is a wretched painting on can-
vass, representing a woman in a standing atti-
tude, having on each side of her St. Anthony and
St. Andrew. The image now shewn is new ; and
by a miracle truly divine, was found in the place
of the old painting, which had begun to fall into
rags.
From November to April, the box of the
Dominicans who have the care of the precious
deposit, is filled with alms, olierings, and gifts.
N 2
180 TiiAVF.LS IN THE
The numerous ex-votos do not, as in European ca-
tliolic chu relies, hang suspended from the roofs ;
the sanctuary is not encumbered with rich stuffs,
as at Mecca ; the offerings are here all collected in
chests, which cannot take long filling, since no
mass is said under six piastres, and as the rich
inhabitants who repair hither from Popayan and
(iiron to thank the Virgin for the recovery of a
chid, &c. sometimes give more than a hundred.
The priests belonging to this temple lead
a very delightful life in the convent which they
have built near the church ; they are twelve or
fourteen in number, and are replaced by others
every six months. They are not, however, idle
amid so much wealth : the administration of the
property, which piety pours into their hands,
requires much care ; it is very discreetly em-
ployed ; a great portion of it is appropriated to
enlarging the convent, ornamenting the church,
and especially to increasing the revenues, already
considerable, of three farms which belong to the
Virgin of Chiquinquira.
The attachment manifested by the Domini-
cans for this precious relic, is therefore very
natural ; nor can they be blamed for having re-
fused the offers made them by the secular clergy
of Bogota, of farming it for forty thousand
piastres.
Cervi^re, a French officer in the Colombian
service, imagined, that if he could get possession
uki'ublk; of Colombia. LSI
oi' tliis sacred image, the people would come and
adore it at any place to which he might remove it,
and that thus he, as the new pontiff', would reaj)
the offerings of the pious. He was, however,
deceived ; the profanation excited the utmost
horror, not a devotee made his appearance. Cei-
vi^re was routed at a short distance from Bogo-
ta, to which place he had retired ; and being
more anxious to effect his own escape than to
save this new labarum, he abandoned it at Ca-
kesa ; the afflicted Dominicans repaired tliither,
and brouglit it back in great pomp to Chiquin-
quira ; the pilgrimages immediately recom-
menced.
Upon quitting Chiquinquira, I passed through
several fine farms. Suta was the next village : it
is situated in the midst of a plain terminating
at the paramo of Noa, which is only separated
from Chiquinquira by a hill of small elevation. I
afterwards arrived at Funequc : in the north-
west there is also a lake of this name. A little
beyond this handet is Ubate, a village of peculiar
cleanliness for these regions ; the schoolmaster
has adopted for his sign the letters of the
alphabet. The usual resting-place for the night
is Suta Pelado (peeled) : it is thus distinguished
from the other Suta, on account of the scorching
wind which burns up all the harvests, and ruins
the farmers; this generally happens at the j)e-
riod when liie easterlv winds blow, these
182 TRAVELS IN THE
coming from the snowy summits of Cucuy, pass
over the province of Tunja, which is much lower
than Suta Pelado. When viewed from this vil-
lage, it appears an immense plain, the eastern
paramos of which terminate the horizon ; it is
nevertheless very mountainous.
Beyond Suta Pelado is the Venta del Alto
de la Crux ; the traveller then passes the Boke-
ron de Tauza, an opening- made by the hand
of nature in the midst of the mountains of Tau-
za : a salt mine is being worked in the neigh-
bourhood. We suffered much from the cold as
we traversed the paramo of Tauza ; but I soon
forgot all my privations and labours, in once
more seeing the beautiful plain of Bogota extend
itself before me as far as my eye could reach. I
hastened my descent, and was soon at Zipa-
quira : it was market-day, a numerous and busy
population imparted peculiar animation to the
roads and streets. On every side, small tables,
on which were placed a cloth and a loaf, served
by way of sign to the different inns, and invited
the traveller to enter : from the general bustle,
one might have imagined one's-self in the capital
of a vast empire ; it was, however, only a village,
richer in the possession of its salt mine, than
Choco in the midst of the treasures with which
it is filled.
I remained only one night at Zipaquira ; the
next day I traversed Gaetan, and afterwards
REPUBLIC OF COLOMRIA. l83
fouiul Diysclf iiiiiong^ the forests of apple-trees in
which the Indians of Chia have constructed
their huts. From thence, I proceeded to the
banks of the Conimun, which I crossed on a bal-
sa, or raft ; and then arrived at the Pantanal,
which, in the rainy season, is a deep marsh. It
was not without difficulty that we made our way
along^ the road which leads to Bogota, and it was
night when I re-entered that city after a month's
absence.
The montli which I again passed there was
employed in collecting all that appeared to me
proper to give an idea of the capital of the repub-
lic of Bogota : this will form the subject of the
succeeding chapter.
184 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XI.
Sunta-Fe dc Bogota — Climate — Houses — Furniture — Catlicdral — Convents
— Hospital — Colleges — Tlie President's Palace — Palace of the Deputies
— Palace of the Senate — Prisons — The Mint and Theatre — Streets —
Police — Market — Paupei> — Public Walks — Mode of Living" — Shops-
Amusements — Fete Dieu — Manners — Devotees — Scientific Establish-
ments — Character of the Inhabitants.
Compared with the other arts cultivated in
Colombia, architecture is the one which has
made the greatest progress ; a circumstance the
more surprising, as all instruction in it is con-
fined to that furnished by books and engravings;
sculpture and painting are still very backward,
but it may justly be anticipated that greater
advances will be made in them than has hitherto
been done.
The houses in the country are in general,
merely huts with mud walls, straw roofs, and lea-
thern doors. They usually contain two rooms,
one of which is for the kitchen ; the other, in
which the family lives, is divided into two ; the
one used as a parlour, the other as a bed-room.
The furniture is extremely simple. Bananas
and other vegetable plants, the favorites of the
American, form a pleasing shade around the
exterior of the dwelling.
REPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. l8o
More taste is observable in the villag^es. The
• church is hiii^e and very neatly kept ; it has
bells, and almost always an organ, while the
curate's house, ornamented with a balcony, has
the air of a palace. From these two edifices, in-
dividuals have derived all their architectural
ideas.
The towns are handsome, large, and agreea-
ble in proportion to their locality, the commerce
they carry on, the influence they enjoy, or the
rank they possess.
The most important town of Colombia is
Panama ; the best fortified, Carthagena ; the
most agreeable, Santa-Ffe ; the best built, Po-
payan ; the richest Guayaquil ; the most lively,
Zipaquira ; the best situated, Maracaibo. Cara-
cas is said to have eclipsed them all, but Caracas
is now in ruins. Quito, by all accounts, is su-
perior to any in population ; but this advantage
could not procure it the honour of being the ca-
pital, and Santa-Fe, is almost its rival even
in this particular.
All the towns of South America are nearly
constructed on the same plan. The founders al-
most every where, have traced out a cross, of
which the principal square and church form
the centre.
The Spaniards have, generally speaking,
built their towns at the foot of mountains, and
very rarely in the midst of \Uv plains. The
18G TRAVELS I\ THE
object in the first instance was to provide against
surprise, and at present these positions have
the advantage of affording plenty of fresh water,
which the Spaniards have not neglected to dis^
tribute in every direction by means of aqueducts.
Another method which they make use of to en-
liven the towns, is that of whitening the outside
of the houses, which gives them an appearance
of much neatness. The principal streets have
troitoirs; in fact, the useful and the agreeable
have been much less neglected in America than
Europeans are willing to allow.
No town possesses more natural advanta-
ges than the capital ; if less cleanly than others,
the fault must be attributed to the climate,
and to the immense traffic daily carried on
there.
Santa-Fe de Bogota was founded in the plain
of that name, on ttie sixth of August 1538,* at
the foot of two mountains of considerable ele-
vation. At that time it could only reckon
twelve huts, and about sixty inhabitants. Des-
tined to become a town of considerable extent,
it rapidly increased ; for, two years after its foun-
dation, it was considered of sufficient impor-
tance by the Spanish court, to be raised to the
rank of Ciudad, (city). Its present popidation
is estimated at 30,000 souls-f Quesada had
* S. M. Salazar.
t See note IV.
ULl'UBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 187
admirably chosen the site of a town which was
one day to give tiie law to a great part of
the Cordillera. Situated between two moun-
tains which shelter it from the violent hur-
ricanes of the east, it receives from them con-
stant supplies of fresh and pure water, and
commands the plain, so as to be able to de-
fend itself against any enemy from that quar-
ter. Santa-Fe, may be seen at a great dis-
tance, especially the belfrey of the cathedral, but
the natural frame-work in which the town is in-
closed is so prodigiously vast, that it disap-
pears in the immense shadows projected by
the mountains over its public edifices.
The climate of Bogota is generally rainy
and cold ; the thermometer seldom rises above
12" to 14', and frequently falls to 6° or T.
The sky is always cloudy, and there are but
few of those fine days which even in the se-
verest winters, we enjoy in Europe.
The climate of Bogota may indeed be tlius
apportioned, six months of continued rain, April,
May, September, October, November and Decem-
ber ; three months showery, June, July and Au-
gust ; and three others uncertain. North north-
west winds invariably bring storms, which some-
times last several days together, and form large
collections of water in the plain.
Notwithstanding the excessive humidity
predominant even in the houses, the climate is
188 TRAVELS IN THE
not unhealthy, epidemics arc never known. Euro
peans, provided they take the precaution of not
getting wet in the feet, enjoy good health, after
having had, on their arrival, the fever for a few
days ; this, by some has been attributed to
their fatigues, it may rather be referred to the
tropical influence which, although weakened by
the elevation of the land, acts nevertheless very
powerfully upon Europeans. The inhabitant
of the tierras calientes, is much less exempt
from dangers than ourselves ; the cool and
limpid streams of the mountain, which he
drinks with so much delight, never fail to give
him the dysentery, which, in numerous instances,
proves fatal in a short time. Even the inhabi-
tants of Bogota, are oftener ill than foreigners ;
another proof that the cause of these affections
is less to be sought for in the climate, than
in the mode of life, and the food they make
use of.
The ladies rarely go out. Domestic habits,
joined to severe stomach-aches caused by the
garlic, tobacco, pork and chicha, of which they
partake very freely, cause them to be almost
continually indisposed. A dreadful disorder de-
termines still more in both sexes, numerous
infirmities, of whicli intemperance, more than
climate, is the cause ; to this may be attributed
the rheumatisms, hysterics, tooth-aches, and
sore throats, so generally complained of, and
lUPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 189
vv'liicli soon assinnc tlic most dreadful cliarac-
ter. All possible precautions are had recourse to
in these cases, warm clothing is much used ; but
the disorder does not lie in the air.
The whole of South America is subject to
earthquakes. Santa-Fe has experienced several ;
this it is which prevents the houses from being
very high, althougli in their construction the same
principles of architecture have been followed as
the Spaniards, used in all their towns, those of
Bogota differ more than any of the others: in
their construction they use bricks baked in the
sun; the greater part are covered with tiles, and
the external walls are whitewashed. As to the
interior of the houses, they are not better arranged
then our's were at the time of the discovery of
America. Windows very small and always bar-
ricadoed by large wooden bars, are seen by the
side of others of an immense size ; the beams
are rarely concealed by a ceiling ; the walls have
enormous projections ; the doors are of all heights,
the use of locks is scarcely known, at least those
manufactured in the country, afford but little
security. The use of glazed windows is bat
of recent introduction ; a less barbarous taste is
however observable, in the construction of many
modern habitations, and several improvements
begin to appear. Light and convenient balconies
have superseded the enormous iieavy galleries;
the ceiling is no longer disagreeably intersected
190 TRAVELS IN THE
by beams, the windows are without barricadoes ;
the street doors better painted; a general neatness
is indeed being introduced through all classes.
In general two gates are to be passed before ar-
riving in the court yard. The entry which sepa-
rates it from the street is but too often a recep-
tacle for the uncleanliness of the passengers. A
gallery generally runs round the court, if the
house consists only of a ground floor ; but if of
two stories, a covered terrace. The staircase is
generally of stone, and of very rude construc-
tion : on the wall of the first square is generally
painted a giant, carrying in one hand a child,
and in the other a ball ; this is St. Christopher,
the household god of the country. Round the
inner gallery is a long suit of rooms, which only
receive day-light through the door.
Every house has at least one saloon, and an
eating-room ; for it is considered unpolite to
receive friends, or to entertain them in a sleep-
ing-room. The kitchen is always of an immense
size, less on account of the quantity of provisions
cooked, than the number of useless servants as-
sembled there : there is no chimney, stoves only
are used.
No houses are seen without carpets ; the
ancient straw mats of the Indians are no longer
used by fashionable people, but are superseded
by carpets of European manufacture. Both of
these are destined, if there be no fire, to warm
KEPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 191
tlie apartments, and to conceal the inequalities ol
the floor, where unfortunately the negligence
of the servants permits the most loathsome in-
sects to swarm in immense numbers. Some
persons cover the walls of their chambers with
(lied paper ; and numbers have garlands of
flowers, and genii drawn upon it, in a style
alike indicative of the bad taste of the painter
and his employer.
The furniture is simple, and usually consists
of nothing more than two sofas covered with cot-
ton, two small tables, a few leathern chairs, after
the fashion of the fifteenth century ; a looking-
glass, and three lamps suspended from the ceil-
ing. The bed is tolerably well ornamented, but
feathers are never used, it is formed of two wool
mattrasses.
With some slight difference, all the houses
resemble each other ; notliing serves to distin-
guish those of the ministers, and it would be dif-
ficult to recognize the president's, were it not
for the guard at the entrance.
The architects of Santa-F^, I repeat, will
always have an excuse to justify the deformity of
their edifices, viz. the nature of the ground,
which, being so often convulsed, compels them
to sacrifice elegance and majesty to solidity, thus
it is that the houses are so low, although the
walls are prodigiously thick. The public build-
ings are also obliged to have enormous founda-
19'i TRAVELS IN THE
tions, and the shafts of the columns of the
churches are less in proportion to the weight
they have to sustain, than to the shocks which
they are required to resist.
The architecture of some, however, is in a
purer style. Tlie cathedral in particular, erected
in 1814, is remarkable for the simplicity of its
interior, redeeming, in some degree, the bad
taste to which its facade is indebted, for an
accumulation of lines produced without harmony,
and intersecting each other without the least
symmetry.
The other churches of Bogota, to the num-
ber of twenty-six, are, on the contrary, resplen-
dent with gold ; no temple of the Incas was ever
so dazzling. But, although the magnificence of
the cathedral itself is not so great, the treasures it
possesses are more valuable. One statue of the
Vir2:in alone, out of the many which adorn the
altars, is ornamented with 1358 diamonds, 1295
emeralds, 59 amethysts, one topaz, one hyacinth,
372 pearls, and its pedestal is enriched with 609
amethysts ; the artist was paid 4000 piastres for
his labours.
A great number of churches are dependent
upon convents, the revenues of which are very
considerable. There are nine monasteries and
three nunneries : those of the Dominicans,
and of the monks of San Juan de Dios, are tlie
most richly endowed. Four-sixths of the liouses
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBJA. 193
in Bogota belong to tlieiii. These retreats, of regu-
lar construction, are more remarkable for solidity
than beauty of architecture. The building is
generally square ; in the centre is a court-yard
ornamented by a fountain, and having a double
range of galleries round it, the lower one of which
is generally filled with wretched paintings, repre-
senting the history of the saint at wliose prayer
the convent was founded.
Some of these convents have colleges or
hospitals dependent upon them. The monks or
San Juan de Dios are particularly devoted to tlie
relief of suffering- humanity. What a pity that
their hospital has so disgusting an appearance !
wooden beds offensive from dirt, upon which lie
patients, in rooms inaccessible either to light or
air ; heaps of filth and ordure in the yards ;
kitchens, in which victuals are cooked with all
the neglig-ence and nastiness peculiar to the den
of a savage ; straw carpets, black with mud and
all imaginable uncleanness ; dead bodies exposed
on the ground to the view of the dying, are objects
which might impair- health the most vigorous,
and render any cure effected in this loathsome
abode, a subject of the utmost astonishment.
The colleges are attended to with more care ;
they are three in number, and are all well situ-
ated and well-built ; the principal one, that of
the "Tesuits, possesses the character of solidity
peculiar to all the edifices of that famous order.
o
194 TRAVKLS IN THE
Tlie iiiajority of the professors wear the ton-
sure ; a very small proportion of them being lay-
men. The course of instruction in these estab-
lishments consists of the Latin language, philo-
sophy, the mathematics, and theology ; the pupils
are required to devote four hours a-day to study.
A three months' vacation is allowed at the end of
the year.
It might be imagined, from the pompous
title of palace, given to the ancient residence
of the viceroys, which is now occupied by the
president of the republic, that a sumptuous edi-
fice would present itself; it is, however, nothing
more than a house with a flat roof; two adjoin-
ing ones, much lower, ornamented with galleries,
together with the prison, constitute the whole of
its dependencies ; here are also the offices of the
ministers of state. Upon entering the palace,
stair-cases without the least pretensions to ele-
gance, and galleries equally devoid of taste, pre-
sent themselves ; no hall leads into the presence-
chamber : it is entered either from the presi-
dent's bed-room, or from a small anti-chamber.
A few sofas covered with red damask, a worn-out
Segovia carpet, some lamps suspended from the
cross beams, which, for want of a ceiling, give
this part of the saloon the appearance of a barn,
would make it difficult to conceive the idea of a
palace, were not the apartment decorated with a
throne covered with red damask, a few looking-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 195
glasses, glazed windows, and some wretched
paintings. The idea of regality is still furthei-
increased by a troop of twenty hussars guarding
the avenues ; these, notwitlistanding their want
of boots and horses, and the wretched plight of
their uniforms, give the stranger a hint that he
is within the precincts of royalty.
The place, dignified with the name of the
palace of the deputies, is nothing but a large
house situated at the corner of a street, the
ground-floor of which is let out in shops for the
selling of brandy. The first objects which at-
tract attention upon ascending the stair-case,
are two Fames painted upon the wall, at the
foot of which is this inscription : " No country
without laws." Having gained the inner gallery,
the noise which escapes through a small door in-
dicates it to the visitor to be that of the Hall of
Assembly. This consists of a long and narrow
room, in the middle of which has been erected a
wooden balustrade, upon which the spectators
lean ; for no one is seated but the representatives,
who are economically placed upon arm-chairs made
of polished wood, with leather bottoms, ranged in
long rows ; within the balustrade, eight chan-
deliers, glazed windows, and a matting, com-
pose the decorations of the palace of deputies.
Upon quitting this, it is only necessary to
cross the street to enter the palace of the senate,
which is perhaps still more simple than tliat of
o 2
196 TRAVELS IN THE
the representatives. The Dominicans having
granted this body one of the wings of their con-
vent, it was fitted up in a similar maimer to the
Hall of the Deputies ; the walls are, however,
ornamented with emblematical figures. Under
one of these which represents Justice, the ignorant
painter has written Policy.
Thus in the palace there is neither salle de
reception, hall, nor anti-chamber, and when
the ministers attend to make any communication
to one of the chambers, they are obliged to wait
upon the staircase, till the usher of the house,
who is at the same time manager of the theatre,
comes to disengage them of their umbrella, and
invite them to enter.
In their places of confinement the Spanish
Americans have established a system of excessive
indulgence. The prisons are on the ground floor,
and the windows are sufl&ciently low to allow
the passers-by to converse with those incarce-
rated ; as to state prisoners, they are treated with
greater severity.
The other public buildings in Bogota are
the Mint and the Theatre. The internal arrange-
ments of both of these are excessively bad ;
neither of them seems adapted to the objects for
which it was intended : it is however very sur-
prising to find establishments of this kind in
places so far removed from all communication
with Europe.
REPUBLIC OK COLOMBIA. 197
In this respect Bogota resembles, in some
degree, the European factories on the coast of
Africa: within the town many institutions and
customs of the other capitals of the world are
to be met with ; without, all is different : one is
in the centre of Africa, surrounded by barbarians,
the greater part of whom have no other cloathing
than a shirt and drawers ; the abundance even
of the fields, so regretted by the Americans wlio
visit Europe, an abundance in comparison of
which the riches of our industry appear as
wretched poverty, seems to the European, a wild
and savage luxuriancy.
The three principal streets of Bogota, are
cheerful, tolerably regular, but badly paved. The
trottoirs are liowever better than in the other
Spanish towns, and passengers walk sheltered
from the rain, by favour of the projecting roofs
of the houses.
It was a saying of one of their viceroys that
Bogota had four police officers, to keep the town
clean, the gallinazos (vultar aura), the rain, the
asses, and the hogs ; the same observation will
nearly apply now; but the streams of fresh
water which run through the streets would cleanse
them still more efficaciously, if, at eight o'clock
in the evening, the idleness of the inhabitants
did not convert them into filthy and infectious
sewers.
198 TRAVELS IN THE
At night, a few lanterns placed at the corners
of some streets, shed a feeble and imperfect light,
while the warehouses are committed to the care of
nightly watchmen, in spite of whose vigilance
they are occasionally broken into. The squares
are spacious, and are all ornamented with foun-
tains. That of the palace is on Fridays con-
verted into the market place, which forms an
interesting object for foreigners, notwithstanding
the confusion among the immense crowds which
repair on that day to Bogota.
This market is full of provisions, meat, vege-
tables, and fruits of every description. Those of
Europe and America may here be seen mingled
together, on one side are hampers full of straw-
berries, on the other, ananas, aguacates, peaches
and apples ; near heaps of cabbages, carrots and
potatoes, are yuccas, and bananas ; and among
sacks of maize, barley and corn, are piles of
cocoa, and loaf sugar ; in one place are sold
numerous healing herbs gathered by the Indians
in the paramos, in another, pinks, roses, and jes-
samine are exposed for sale.
Bogota is subject to a dreadful nuisance ;
every Saturday, the poor rush into the town as
if to take it by assault ; they besiege every door,
and to gain admittance, endeavour to excite
compassion by the exposure of the most revolting
infirmities ; old men led by children form nu-
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 199
merous groups, which throughout the day ob-
struct the streets and even block up the thresholds
of the houses.
In the neighbourhood of Bogota, are some
very agreeable walks whicli, although shaded by
willows and ornamented with rose trees and
the beautiful cardamindum. are little frequented;
the preference being given to a few select streets,
the trottoirs of which offer a commodious prome
nade, as from them gentlemen on horseback may
be seen traversing the town at full gallop ; the
greater part of these horsemen are bedizened with
gold, and glittering in military uniforms; some
with round hats ornamented with plumes of fea-
thers, others with cocked ones, and a still greater
number wearing shakos and helmets ; although
their own appearance is upon the whole striking,
that of their horses, which resemble norman
ponies, is so wretched as to lessen the effect
considerably.
Upon arriving at Bogota, the foreigner, un-
less he has letters of recommendation, finds him-
self much embarrassed for a lodging, although
as a last resource, he may find, as in other places,
a fire and shelter at the posada. The best })lan
is to go to a public hotel, which has lately been
established, where, at the rate of a piiistre a
day, he may find tolerable entertainment.
Living is not very expensive for such as are
200 TRAVELS IN THE
contented with their host's fare*, which usually
consists of a piece of boiled beef, with some
potatoes, yucca, and bananas ; in the more weal-
thy families, lentils, peas, and kidney beans
dressed with lard, are also added, and on gala
days, a piece of pork. The bread is tolerably
good, little however is eaten ; chocolate is taken
thrice a day, and is always accompanied with
cheese and confectionery. The most common
drink is water, and occasionnally chicha. Wine is
very rare, and is considered as hurtful as brandy,
and with great justice ; both these liquors are
very dangerous at Bogota ; the greatest mode-
ration must be observed in the use of them.
The meals are very frequent. At seven o'clock
in the morning they eat meat, and drink cho-
colate, at ten they take some soup ; dinner is
served up at two, chocolate is again sipped at five,
and at ten they sup. Silver goblets are in
common use, no one is without them. Napkins
are not known, but table cloths are indispensa-
ble. Pots of earthenware are generally preferred
for drinking water out of, and generally, one
serves the whole company. After a repast, they
wash their hands, smoke, and then take a siesta.
This custom is so general, that, at three o'clock
the most profound silence reigns throughout the
* See note V.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 201
city, the same as in all towns inhabited by Spa-
niards.
Some persons have certainly adopted the
European manners and customs ; but it was not
till after repeated voyages to Jamaica, that they
renounced their national habits ; the character
of the country is not however to be formed from
these cosmopolites.
Bog-Ota cannot boast of ten merchants who
can command 100,000 piastres, nor of five in-
dividuals, living upon a revenue of equal amount.
The most common incomes are from 5, to 10,000
piastres. As almost every inhabitant is a shop-
keeper, his business generally increases his in-
come threefold.
The shops are crowded together, dirty, and
dark ; the only admission for day-light, is by
the door. These however, are the places of resort
for the idle. Seated upon his counter, smoking
incessantly, and giving laconic answers to his
customers, the Colombian merchant in many
respects resembles those of Smyrna or Aleppo.
The amusements consist of balls, cock,
and bull fights, occasionally the theatre, but
more often, games of chance, at which bets some-
times run as high as 10,000 piastres. The pomp
displayed in the religious processions, and the
multiplicity of Saints' days, greatly contribute
to the amusement of the lower orders.
Corpus Christi day is that which is celebra-
202 TRAVELS IN THE
ted with the greatest magnificence at Bogota ; it
is announced the preceding evening by artificial
fire-works. At each corner of the grand square,
through which the procession is to pass, are
erected four richly ornamented altars, while by
a singular mixture of the sacred and profane,
mats de cocagne, puppet shows and a great number
of cages full of rare and curious animals are
ranged on all sides. The rejoicings and games
cease the moment the bell is heard announcing
the approach of the procession. Every one takes
oif his hat and kneels down in the streets.
At the head of the procession, are chariots
dragged along by men ; in one is king David,
with the head of Goliath in his hand ; in another,
Esther ; in a third, Mordecai ; Joseph, next
makes his appearance upon a horse richly capari-
soned, and followed by a great number of guards ;
these how^ever, are only mounted on paste-board
chargers. All these personages are the children
of the principal inhabitants of the city. To ob-
tain the honour of acting a part in this imposing
spectacle, is a great desideratum, and those who
are honoured, by having their children nominated,
neglect no kind of expense ; rivalling each other
in splendour, they lay pearls, diamonds, emeralds,
and rubies under contribution, and put their
imagination to the rack, in order to render the
dresses of the actors more magnificent. The cler-
gy advance slowly amid the crowd of the faith-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 203
ful, With which the square is tlironged. The most
beautiful i^irls in the city walk l)etween two rows
of priests, some carrying* the ark, and the shew-
bread, others incense, or baskets of flowers ; to
these succeed young Indians, who, to the sound
of a flute and tabor, perform wild fantastic
dances. The procession is closed by a detachment
of troops, with arms and colours reversed.
This fete is certainly the most magnificent
that can be witnessed in America ; those of
Christmas, in the Avarm countries, are not to be
compared with it. The latter, however, are more
productive of pleasure, for they occasion both in
the streets and liouses, balls and masquerades,
which the cool of the evening renders particu-
larly pleasing.
As in all capitals, morals are more relaxed
at Bogota, than in other towns ; but crimes are
rare, nor does drunkenness lead to excesses, al-
though the number of shops for the sale of bran-
dy and chicha is very considerable : their sign
is a cabbage leaf.
The inhabitants of Bogota, are mild, polite,
and cheerful : their gaiety never degenerates
into pertness or petulancy. There are few wo-
men who are not pretty, and still fewer who
are not well formed ; their singular costume,
is completely original.
Here, as throughout the republic, the only
mark of distinction between the two classes of
204 TRAVELS IN THE
society, the rich and the poor, consists in the
wearing of shoes. All the girls of the lower or-
ders go barefooted ; with the majority of them
this is a means of pleasing which excites the envy
of more than one signora.
These very females, either by their personal
charms, the caprice of the men, or their own good
fortune, are sometimes entitled to pass into the
superior class ; but, by a strange prejudice, and
an inexplicable reserve, this change is never sud-
den. The public opinion is first prepared by a
curious costume, cut exactly in the fashion,
and made of the same materials as the dresses of
nuns ; those who are thus clothed, are called
bcates. This habit is also sometimes assumed by
coquetry, or luxury ; but a religious motive is
then the pretext, or the obtaining the cure of a
husband, a father or mother the alledged cause ;
a valuable privilege attached to the cut of a gown
which sanctifies her who wears it, represses the
jealous feeling excited in female breasts at the
sight of a pretty woman, and procures health
with no other change in the habits and manner
of living, than the obligation of not choosing any
colour for gowns, than white or maroon, and
of adopting a fashion in dress not less strange
than that of the clothes daily worn ! !
The enlightened taste which some indivi-
duals evince for the sciences and literature, has
induced the government to establish a library
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 205
containing at present about 6000 volumes, a bo-
tanical garden, and an observatory, but these
two latter esta])lislimcnts are absolutely aban-
doned ; there are three printing offices, but tliey
have not much occupation, two gazettes, and a
few law papers, being the whole of their weekly
employment.
Very few negroes are found in the capital ;
the half-bred Indians alone being employed as
servants, the mulattoes are less rare ; their co-
lour does not in the least prejudice them in
the eyes of the white ladies, who, it is said, do
not view them with indifference.
A foreigner has great difficulty in being
well waited upon by his servants, especially
when travelling ; for, being with difficulty un-
derstood by the country-people, his servants be-
come his interpreters, and by the familiarity
thus necessarily established, in a short time,
his equals.
It is not easy to say what are the political
opinions of the inliabitants of Bogota. Like
all those who live in capital cities, they are
oppositionists, because they see the machine of
government too near ; but they may be con-
sidered rather as spectators indifferent as to
its fall or duration, than as enemies danger-
ous to its existence. Provided they pay no
taxes, and are at liberty to abuse, they con-
sider themselves free. After having given the re-
206 TRAVELS IN THE
volutionary impulse, this capital will, for the
future, receive it from the provinces, and every
enemy who makes himself master of the plain,
will give the law to Bogota.
Some idea has been formed of establishing
the capital of the republic at Cucuta ; this is
an unjust and ill conceived project ; the only
result would be a solitary city, like Washing-
ton ; all life and energy would remain at Bo-
gota. The name of Bolivar might be immor-
talized, but there would never be a great and
powerful city, it is as difficult to raise these
with a breath, as it is empires. These gigantic
ideas, so imposing in theory, have never suc-
ceeded but once, and that in an absolute mo-
narchy,— in Russia.
Bogota is then at present the seat of the go-
vernment ; and it is in this city that the best idea
may be formed of the revenues and resources
of the republic ; an account of these will be given
in the next chapter.
KKPUBLir, OF COLOMBIA. 207
CHAPTER XII.
Finances— Brandy — Post Oflficc — Rovcune — Stamps — Alcavala — Direct
Taxation — War — Army — Fortified places — Marine — Foreig-n relations.
The fortune of individuals, the basis of that of
the government, amounts : Istly, to eight mil-
lions of piastres, the annual produce of the soil ;
this produce only includes, grain, vegetables,
and fruits ; 2ndly, to eight millions of exported
goods, such as tobacco, cocoa, indigo, &c. &c.;
Srdly, to two millions of metals, given to foreign-
ers, in payment of merchandize imported.
The total of these sums, being 18,000 pias-
tres, gives, supposing this calculation correct,
and the population to be two millions, seven hun-
dred thousand souls,* a sum of 33/. 33 centimes J-f
for each individual, of which the government re-
ceives 9 to lO/". iX the remainder goes towards
clothing and food.||
The state of slavery of a great part of the
people explains how men can exist upon so
moderate an income ; on the other hand, their
* M. de Humboldt.
•j- About 25s sterlino.
+ Between 6 and 7 shillings.
II See note IV.
208 TRAVELS IN THE
extreme sobriety, the simplicity of their dress,
the solitary life they lead, the abundance of their
fields, and the excellence of the climate, which
enables them to gather without difficulty all
the fruits of the earth, are means of economy,
which prevent them from being conscious of
their misery.
A detail of the different branches of the pub-
lic revenue, will clearly shew the situation of
this country, which is certainly not a brilliant
one.*=
The custom-house duties, which, when sim-
plified, should be punctually paid, are treated
with the greatest contempt by all classes of citi-
zens. The contraband trade is carried on with
the utmost audacity ; if in the interior it is less
active, in the sea-port towns, where it is sure
of impunity, it has arrived at the climax of
no longer needing concealment. This is the
reason why the duties which, fixed under the
Spanish government, at 18 per cent for impor-
tation, and at 12 per cent for exportation, brought
in about eight hundred thousand piastres an-
nually, now only produce two-thirds of that sum,
whether from the falling off of trade, or the
dishonesty of the officers.
The tobacco revenue at most only pays the
expense of collecting it : a short time since the
government was obliged to sell all the stock
* See note VII.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. '209
of this article, which they had in the depot
at Tiinja, as it was become useless, and might
spoil by remaining too long in the warehouses,
the activity of the contraband having completely
kept them out of the market.
The duties upon brandy, formerly an object
of monopoly, the manufacture of which has
now been declared free, have not produced go-
vernment the advantages it expected ; they have,
however, introduced among the inhabitants a
fatal passion for spirituous liquors, from the too
great facility thus afforded of gratifying it.
The minister of finance imagines he has dis-
covered the cause of the decrease in this branch
of the revenue, in the introduction of foreign
brandies, the prohibition of them is therefore pro-
posed, and will no doubt be decreed by con-
gress. Fraud alone has injured the revenue ari-
sing from licences : every one enjoys the be-
nefit of the law, by manufacturing a less quan-
tity than w^as intended. It is so very dif-
ficult to extend the excise visits into the woods,
and among the mountains, that every one dis-
till brandy, and scarcely any body pays the
duties.
The post office revenue, is likewise only suf-
ficient to clear the expenses of the establishment ;
commerce being inconsiderable, no very active
correspondence is kept up. The system established
by the Spaniards, from the extremity of Califor-
p
210 TRAVELS IN THE
nia as far Bneuos Ayres, is precisely followed in
Colombia ; every week, a courier sets off for
one of the three grand divisions of the republic.
The stamp duty has been rather more pro-
ductive, on account of the necessity of employ-
ing stamps in all petitions. Claims of all kinds
being numerous, and fraud impossible, the go-
vernment has drawn considerable sums from this
branch of revenue.
The alcavala is not very productive. The
laws upon direct taxation, being ill drawn up,
and being neither preceded nor accompanied by
a census, and an exact description of property,
cannot be carried into execution, and are evaded
every instant.
Thus, the new government burthened with
a debt of more than forty millions, contracted
with the English, and deprived of the greater
part of its revenues, is obliged, in order to fill
the treasury, to have recourse to forced loans,
patriotic gifts, and all those revolutionary mea-
sures which, palliating the evil for a time, with-
out curing it, do but increase its virulence.
However, what with the money drawn from
the rich, and the property in kind furnished by
the lower classes of the community, the go-
vernment has been enabled to conclude a rather
dangerous war waged against it by Morales,
and to afford the army of the south pecuniary as-
sistance sufficient to enable it to enter Peru,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 21 I
where it has found pay, clotliing and provisions,
which, had it failed to receive in its own country,
might have occasioned another convulsion.
These circumstances shew that the members
of the government are neither wanting in bold-
ness nor ability. The war minister, especially, is
not the least occupied, nor the least embarrassed;
it is true he surmounts obstacles, by permitting
the soldiers to furnish themselves with the need-
ful at the expence of those it is their duty to de-
fend ; besides an army which has nothing like
organization, but rather resembles a tribe of Be-
douin Arabs than a regular body of troops, is
much less expensive than those of Europe.
The soldiers they call grenadiers, dragoons,
and hussars, have no uniform like ours ; thev sel-
dom can boast more than one coat, a shirt and a
pair of blue pantaloons ; they have neither boots
nor shoes ; a custom which has the advantage of
habituating the soldiers to march over the most
rugged roads without inconvenience, and which
gives them a terrible superiority over Europeans,
whose feet easily wounded when no longer de-
fended by shoes, prevent them from keeping up
with the army.
The infantry are armed with guns, the horse-
men with lances; and a few, with guns and sabres.
The republic can command fifty thousand
stand of arms, all in the most wretched state, of
English manufacture, and of the worst quality.
p 2
212 TRAVELS IN THE
The rations are fixed by law at one pound of
meat, one pound of bread, and four ounces of
rice per man ; it is very seldom, however, com-
posed of aught but bananas.
The monthly pay of the troops, a third of
which is retained by g-overnment, has been fixed
as follows :
Piastres.
General in Chief 500
General of Division 400
General of Brigade 300
Colonel 200
Lieutenant-Colonel 150
Chief-of-Battalion 100
Captain 60
Lieutenant 40
Sub' Lieutenant 30
Surgeon 50
Chaplain 40
1st Serjeant 18
2d Serjeant 15
1st Corporal 12
2d Corporal 11
Drummer 11
Soldier 10
In 1821, there were 22,975 men under arms :
subsequently, this number has increased to
32,466 men : 25,750 infantry, 4,296 cavalry, and
REPUBLIC UK COLOMBIA. 2l,*3
2,520 artillery ; ainoii*^ the latter are included
400 workmen *.
Each department has a commandant-gene •
ral, whose staff is composed of a general officer,
two adjutants, and two secretaries ; the com-
mandants of the provinces and places included
in the departments are likewise menibers of it.
The infantry is divided into battalions : there
are twenty-five of the line, and five of light
troops : all are composed of eight companies.
Each battalion of the line contains one company
of chasseurs, one of grenadiers, and six of fusi-
leers. Each company consists of one hundred
soldiers and four officers.
The cavalry includes twenty-four squadrons ;
the six squadrons which form the president's
guard compose a brigade.
Each squadron has three companies for the
ancient, and two for the modern tactics : the
first have fifty soldiers and three officers ; the
second, eighty soldiers and four officers.
Of the four squadrons, eighteen belong to
the line, under the appellation of dragoons, lan-
cers, and six of light hussars.
The artillery, although upon a more regular
footing than the other branches of the service, is
in a state bordering upon disorganization ; they,
however, wear cloth uniforms similar to those
of Europe. They are chiefly in garrison in mari-
time towns.
* Menioria del Minislro dc la Guerra.
214 TRAVELS IN THE
As to light artillery, it has not been yet
established. What is called the engineer corps,
is represented by two or three officers.
The president's guard consists of two batta-
lions of infantry, and six squadrons of cavalry.
This is a corps, in which are incorporated the
soldiers who have most distinguished themselves
in the army. During the last war, it was increased
by two battalions and one squadron.
What is called the militia, is but a monthly
muster of a few wretched Indians, who are
arrested on a Sunday, as they leave mass, to be
exercised in an art to which they have the ut-
most repugnance. The town militias are more
regularly exercised, and may be considered upon
the same footing, as the troops of the lino, with
this difference, that, being mostly composed of dis-
contented citizens, they are the less to be feared.
Tlie Spaniards kept the fortifications in such
excellent order, that, had they been better de-
fended by the Independents, their ramparts would
have made them still impregnable ; but every
thing was wanting, projectiles, men, and an ac-
quaintance with the art of fortification ; so that
with the Spaniards to attack and take them, was
the same thing. It is in these places only that a
park of artillery, magazines tolerably well pro-
vided, and barracks are to be found ; everywhere
else, the soldier finds a lodging where he can.
Near Bogota and Quito, the government has
two powder-mills ; these are, however, inadequate
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 215
to its demands ; the English supply the defi-
ciency.
The naval force of Colombia is composed of
nineteen ships of war*, viz. six corvettes, seven
brigs, and six galliots. It is clear, that these cannot
be of much service in defending a line of coast
a thousand leagues in extent : they, however,
rendered important services in the war with Mo-
rales, by blockading Maraca'ibo. The government
is not insensible to its want of a maritime force,
and for the purpose of rendering it respectable,
has demanded a sum of 4,770,845 piastres,
2 reals ; but where is such a sum to be found ?
If numbers of English have entered the
armies of Colombia, many Frenchmen like-
wise serve on board their fleet ; they have even
insured most of its successes, being ably se-
conded by the mulatto Padilla, the commander-
in-chief.
It is in favour of all these foreigners that a
law has been introduced, which grants them, at
the expiration of two years' residence in the
country, the rights of citizenship ; and, at the
end of six months only, the same privileges to
those who marry there, or who purchase land
to the value of six thousand piastres.
The power of England in America is without
a rival ; no fleets but hers are to be seen ; her
merchandizes are bought almost exclusively ; her
♦ Mptiioria del Senor Castillo.
216 TRAVELS IN THE
commercial agents, clerks, and brokers, are
every where to be met with, and her soldiers have
contributed in Colombia, to the success of the
cause of independence.
This connexion with England is not of
recent formation, it may be dated almost from
the time of the establishment of the Spanish
colonies ; for, in proportion as the mother coun-
try added to the number of its prohibitive laws,
the audacity of the English smugglers increas-
ed *. The Americans, therefore, have constantly
preserved their relations with England ; Spain
herself has rendered them more active at diffe-
rent periods, especially in 1796, by laws which
openly authorized them. When the revolntion
burst forth, the ravages committed by English
admirals and privateers, and the attack upon
Carthagena by Vernon, in 1740, were therefore
less thought of than the assistance which might
be expected from that country.
Every kind of succour was afforded, and
upon credit ; arms, soldiers, ships, all arrived
in America. Dear and expensive favours ! Mo-
mentary circumstances imparted a degree of
value to them ; it was forgotten, that India had
been subjected by receiving similar ones, and
that Buenos Ayres, in 1806, had seen the British
standard floating upon its ramparts.
The antipathies of religion and nationality
* See Ulloa.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 217
were surinounted *. Gratitude exercised its sway
over the people, and they received the heretics
like brothers. As soon as these were in the
country, they placed their counters every where,
laid them out with the g-reatest art, and dis-
persed their goods, fashions, dresses, in every
direction, in order that they might introduce
themselves into the country without exciting at-
tention. Their uniform was adopted in the army,
with the exception of the sanguinary colour
of their coats, to which that of the French
uniform was preferred ; Colombia had English
newspapers to direct its political opinions, and
British ships to protect its commerce.
The Colombians had met with a very gene-
rous reception at Jamaica ; they there imbibed
the English manners, and witnessing the opu-
lence of that island, easily imagined what the
English colossus must be.
The first sentiment of the patriotic travellers
was admiration ; the second, fear.
The English perceived it ; they promised the
Colombians, alarmed at the last revolution in
Spain, to protect them, and to lend them their
support and assistance. 13y way of obtaining the
* Besides, the English and the Americans of the United
States, who every where display so inveterate an animosity
against the ceremonies of the Catholic worship, assist at
their celebration in Colombia with a punctuality and a devo-
tion equal to that of the most zealous Catholics.
218 TRAVELS IN THE
guarantee, the latter considered themselves too
fortunate in abandoning to their benefactors all
the revenues of the state, so that salt-mines,
emeralds, pearls, steam-boats, and loans, were
mutually interchanged by both parties.
These were not the kind of relations which
the nation was desirous of establishing with
Europe ; all its wishes were with France : first,
because it was under no pecuniary engagements
with her, and, secondly, because it was much more
intimately connected with her by language, lite-
rature, manners, customs, and especially, by reli-
gion.
The name most often pronounced by Spanish
Americans is that of Rome. The clergy seems
determined not to separate itself from the Romish
church ; but, should the papal indecision be still
further prolonged, it may create an impatience
amongst the priests, who have, for a long time,
been expecting the bulls of nomination. {Bulles
(V institution.)
The United States expected, from their
proximity to the Colombian republic, to have held
the first rank among the powers friendly to this
new state ; they have been strangely deceived ;
the Englisii have made them range themselves
after the new independent states, so that they
find themselves nearly in the same degree of con-
sideration as Peru, Chili, and Buenos Ayres.
The empires of Mexico and Brazil at one
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 2 I 'J
time inspired jealousies tuui fear; but the fall of
the first, and the distance of the second, have
dissipated every apprehension.
The actual situation of Colombia, therefore,
as is every where the case after civil wars, is not
very brilliant ; but, notwithstanding the dis-
asters which have embrued with blood the cradle
of this republic, the public worship is still sur-
rounded with pomp and magnificence ; its minis-
ters, thanks to the piety of the faithful*, are well
provided for, and are enabled to alleviate the
afflictions of the poor. In fact, there are tew
livings, the income of which is below a thousand
piastres, while a great number are worth more
than twice that sum. Many bishoprics produce
from sixty to eighty thousand piastres annually.
The clergy then, in general, are rich and
powerful ; it is calculated that the tithes of the
seven bishoprics produce eight hundred thousand
piastres yearly f, and that church property forms
four-sixths of that of the republic.
Although secretly attached to the Spaniards,
the ecclesiastics are never seen at the head of po-
pular movements ; aware of their true interests,
they live far from the troubles which might com-
promise the existence of the body to which they
belong.
* See Note IX. f Poinbo, 1811.
220 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XIII.
Departure from Bog-ota for Popayan — Guaduas — Chaguani — San Juan —
Return to Guaduas — Short stay in that Town — Beltran — Amba-
lema — San Luis— Chaparral — Natagaima — Parande — Saniboja — Villa
Vieja — Neyva.
After having passed three months at Bo-
gota, I prepared to quit that town at the com-
mencement of the month of August.
There were several routes by which I could
return to Europe, and all presented an equal
degree of interest ; it remained for me to choose
one. The first, and the most frequented, that of
Caracas, offered a considerable extent of country
for observation ; but as many illustrious travel-
lers had visited it before me, little could be
added to their accounts. The Oronooko, from
the importance it will be of at some future pe-
riod, lield out greater temptations ; but I had
already traversed a country similar to that
watered by this stream, in sailing up the Magda-
lena ; lastly, I might have preferred the route of
Maracaibo, opened by the successes of the pa-
triots, to the two others, if, after having visited
the eastern Cordillera, I had not thought it inte-
resting and useful to examine that of the west, so
much richer in minerals.
REPUBLIC OP COLOMHFA. 221
Having obtained a passport tor Buenaven-
tura, where it was my intention to embark, I left
the capital of Colombia on the 9th of August,
1823, at six o'clock in the morning.
My baggage was much lighter than that
which I had when coming from Carthagena;
two mules sufficed to carry it. The guide, who
had conducted me in the province of Socorro, ac-
companied me in the capacity of muleteer.
Two roads to Poi)ayan, my first place of
destination, presented themselves, that of Mesa
Grande, and that of Guaduas ; I chose the latter.
The roads which traverse the plain of Bogota
are so excellent at this season, that we arrived at
an early hour at Fontibon ; a short time after-
wards we passed by Resuela, and were soon at
Facatativa. The next day I descended from the
immense plateau of Bogota by the narrow and
dangerous paths of the mountains which sur-
round it on every side, like walls destined to
support an immense basin.
Fortunately all was dry. Subject to the sea-
sons of the plain commanding them, the vallies
which are situated to the west, enjoy the fine
weather which prevails above, with this differ-
ence, however, that here a severe cold is con-
tinually felt, while below, they are subject to a
burning temperature. Here, it may likewise be
remarked, that when the places situated, to the
west of the Plateau of Bogota, enjoy summer.
222 TRAVELS IN THE
those which are placed at the same altitude
towards the coast experience the only winter
of this climate in torrents of rain, daily poured
from the clouds that have escaped from the
plains of Meta. One very interesting peculiari-
ty struck me, viz. that the inhabitants of the
vallies on the west are much afflicted with
goitres and epidemical complaints,* while those
on the east entirely escape them. Further, to
mark more strongly the difference which exists
between the temperatures of the two vallies on
the east and the west of the plains of Bogota, it
must be added, that the harvests in the former
are not gathered in until the month of October,
while in the latter the whole is finished before the
end of August.
The roads were tolerably good ; and al-
though my travelling companions were satisfied
with them, they could not forbear cursing the
Spaniards, w^ho, in order to repair them, had
employed very harsh measures, by forcing all
those who had been condemned for political
opinions to work on the highways, making them
only a daily allowance of a pound of bread and a
pound of meat.
We at length lost sight of those prodigiously
high mountains, against which the Plateau of
Bogota rests ; and on the 11th of August, at an
* In some places, only, the black leprosy appears.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 223
early hour arrived at Billata, a village thirteen
leagues distant from Bogota.
In descending the immense pyramid of the
Cordillera, I every where found the same shells
which I had met with in the Socorro ; another
sight, similar to that which had given me so much
concern, when I was at Moniquira, now attracted
my attention ; this was a lad tied down upon a
mule, in the same manner, as with us they tie sheep
or calves, who, in spite of his cries, was being
conducted to Bogota, there to be tried for the
crime of desertion. I had often before been asto-
nished how a people, softened by a peace which
had lasted three centuries, could thus quickly
adopt a conduct so different from that to which
they had been so long accustomed. May not the
cause be discovered in those combats with ani-
mals which the Spaniards introduced, and which
habituating the people to spectacles of blood,
prepared them for still more barbarous actions ?
It is true that these dreadful tragedies seldom
ended in death, yet notwithstanding, the Ameri-
cans found in these exercises such perils and so
lively a representation of war as familiarised
them with the contest in which they afterwards
dared to engage.
I must confess that Guaduas appeared to
me less pleasing upon descending from Bogo-
ta, than when I passed through it on my first
journey; the features of the inhabitants, gene-
224 TRAVELS IN THE
rally agreeable, now appeared to me to be pale
and emaciated ; and I remarked a great num-
ber of goitres which had escaped my notice in
the midst of those illusions which this village
had excited, on quitting the wretched shores of
the Magdalena. I also perceived with regret, that
the same men whom I formerly considered so
cheerful and happy, were little better than noisy
and intruding drunkards.
In fact the people are incessantly employed
in drinking brandy mixt with anniseed, under
the pretence that this liquor is absolutely neces-
sary in a hot climate ; a maxim, which as far as
regards the moderate use, may be well founded,
for it is very singular, that the ruling but feeble
race of whites can neither exist nor work in
the torrid zone, without drinking to excess. As
soon as the weather becomes hot, they groan
under its oppression, and the inhabitants of
Guaduas afford a strong proof of the torments
their fellow whites endure. Although the heat
is very great in this city, it is however support-
able, they are however continually complaining
of it ; sometimes it is too hot, at others, they
have violent stomach or head-aches. The higher
classes of people especially, amongst whom goi-
tres are most frequently found, enjoy but a very
precarious state of health.
I was obliged to remain at Guaduas until
the 20th of August, when blindly confiding in
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMIUA. 225
the directions with which some of the inhabi-
tants furnished nic, I pursued the route they
recommended. I started at half past ten in the
morning-, and, by noon, gained the summit of
the chain of mountains which enclose the valley
of Guaduas towards the west. I here contem-
plated with admiration the immense plains,
amongst which the Magdalena rolls its course.
Thick forests cover its banks, and I imagined
that a coolness might be found there, which
would enable me to support the volumes of heat
that I beheld, in the form of vapours, circula-
ting^ in these burning regions. Scarcely had
I descended a few yards, when I found myself
envelopped in a suffocating atmosphere, which
became still more overpowering when 1 arrived at
the foot of the mountains. I was travelling in the
shade, but not a breath of wind agitated the
trees; on the contrary, their thickfoliage deprived
me of the little air I had respired in places
more exposed.
1 had been ])reviously informed that I should
meet with no habitation in these deserts, but I
had at least hoped to find water, the parched up
beds of the torrents, however, no where afforded
me a single drop ; it seemed as if, in a few
hours, I had passed from the southern provinces
of France, to the burning deserts of Africa.
We were now so overcome with fatigue, that
after consulting with the guide whom I had en-
Q
226 TRAVELS IN THE
gaged at Guaduas, I turned out of my route, and
following a narrow path, arrived at an inhabited
place called el Puerto del Corral, not far from
the Magdalena.
The vicinity of this river has transformed
the agriculturists, who have retired there, into
fishermen. Their large nets, hung out upon the
hedges which protect their sugar-cane fields from
the cattle, made me believe that I should at least
procure some fish. I asked for some, but was in-
formed that the present season being that in which
the southern winds prevailed, the fish were not
able to ascend the river, in consequence of these
gales increasing the rapidity of the current.
This period of the year is, for these poor peo-
ple, one of the greatest misery ; the burnt up
plains are no longer productive, pasture is no
where to be found ; even the borders of the ri-
vers, whose stony beds now serve as a road,
are destitute of all verdure. Every thing lan-
guishes in that season which Europeans call the
spring, the rigour of which rather recalls to mind
our severest winters. During this time of scar-
city, no less felt by man than by his flocks,
the only nourishment he derives is from some
bananas ; while a few sugar canes supply him
with the only article of comfort, that can
make him forget the heats so destructive to his
health.
The white inhabitants of these hot countries
UK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 227
who, like all other men of that colour living with-
in the tropics, arc sickly, whatever may have
been the period at which their ancestors took
up their residence there, employ this season to
some advantage ; it is then that they set fire to
the bushes that cover the fields, and which, du-
ring the rainy season, are converted into verdant
meadows ; in the sa.me manner, they burn the
woods, in which they intend, either to sow maize,
or plant sugar canes. These conflagrations, which
destroy a great portion of the ancient forests,
illumined with their brilliancy, the darkness of
the night, for it is then that they generally set
fire to them. Less industrious than the Africans,
the inhabitants of these countries suffer their
cattle to perish, rather than take, like the ne-
groeSj the trouble of procuring them food from
the herbage of the trees, by which they might
be supported during the terrible interval between
the wet seasons.
Venting our execrations on those who had
induced us to take this frightful road, which
is that used by smugglers, we arrived at nine
o'clock at Puerto-Chaguani. It was here, upon
the borders of the Magdalena, which I had al-
ready coasted, that a suffocating heat indicated
the approach of the disorder with which I was
about to be attacked. In fact, before I could
get to Palmar, the heat of the sun, and an intole-
rable thirst occasioned aviolent fever : I was forced
Q 2
228 TRAVELS IN THE
to alight under the outhouses of a cane mill,
where I remained until the evening of the fol-
lowing day, very uneasy about the result of so
sudden an illness. On the 22nd, I got as far as
Palmar, where continual vomitings indicated
that it was not there that I could hope for the re-
establishment of my health ; I therefore resolved
to return to the mountains, and the next day
began to climb their sides. In proportion as I
ascended, a salutary perspiration increased, a
freer respiration succeeded, and by the time I
arrived at St. Juan, I felt myself considerably
better. This beautiful village, situated upon the
top of one of those mountains, which overlook
the Magdalena, presents an appearance of com-
fort which must indeed be found there, since
it is the resting place for the tobacco merchants,
who coming from Ambalema, have passed the
river in their journey to Santa-Ffe.
Unfortunately neither the beauty of the si-
tuation, nor the continual passage of travellers,
has inspired the members of the family of Rubio,
the sole possessors of the village, with sentiments
of hospitality. I could find no accommodation
in St. Juan, and should have been obliged to
have quitted it, if an amiable and charitable
young man, the curate of the place, had not
offered me an asylum in his own parsonage-
house ; during the two days that I remained
there my health rapidly improved. I did not
REPUBLIC OF COL<3MBIA. 229
however consider myself sufficiently recovered
to prosecute my journey direct to Popayan ; it
appeared to me requisite to seek some more ef-
ficacious remedies than I could procure at St.
Juan, and I consequently resolved to return to
Guaduas.
I bade adieu to this obliging^ curate, who
had lately arrived at St. Juan, and who, in the
midst of the respect, or to speak more correctly,
the adoration of which he was the object, (for
no one spoke to him but with bended knee,)
had deigned to bestow upon me all the kind
attentions of disinterested friendship. By noon,
I was at Chiguani, a miserable spot, where tlie
wretchedness of the inhabitants afforded me no
assistance. I continued my journey to Gua-
duas on the 26tli and arrived there before noon.
Here I devoted a fortnight to the re-establish-
ment of my health, which three days of sickness,
caused by too rapid a change from a moderate
temperature to the equatorial heats, had terribly
shattered.
By the 25th of September, I thought myself
sufficiently recovered to be again able to proceed
to Popayan, whither I was accompanied by a
mulatto, who had been recommended to me
by the civil magistrate of Guaduas. I traversed
the same route which I had previously pursued,
and the same evening got as far as Mora, a
hamlet upon the banks of the Magdalena. Al-
230 TRAVKLS IN THK
though I very much regretted the delay occa-
sioned by my illness, I found that the latter
part of the season possessed many advantages
that I could not enjoy in my former journey.
The sky being more cloudy, I was, in some mea-
sure, protected from the scorching rays of the
sun, while stronger gales from the south made
the atmosphere less oppressive.
At two o'clock in the afternoon of the fol-
lowing day, I reached Beltran, the place of
embarkation for crossing the Magdalena on the
way to Ambalema. I had been advised to tra-
vel along the right bank in ascending the river,
but I gave a preference to the left, as aflford-
ing me an opportunity of making a greater num-
ber of observations, of which in particular the
tobacco plantations of Ambalema presented some
that were very interesting.
The passage of the Magdalena, which is
often attended M'ith danger, I safely accom-
plished, at the expense of a dollar, in a pi-
ruaga, to which my three mules were tied ; and
I landed without accident upon the other side.
An hour's journey brought me from the place of
disembarkation to Ambalema. This village,
which encloses within its boundaries some plan-
tations of tobacco of an excellent quality, en-
joys a moderate degree of prosperity. Every
person seems in a bustle, and being better fur-
nished with the means of subsistence, the inha-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 231
bitants appear to be less afllicted with disease,
than in otlier parts of this country. Ainba-
leina is badly built, and its church, rorniiiig an
exception very uncommon in Colombia, would, as
an edifice, be destitute of all interest if it did not
possess a choir of violins and wind instruments,
that might vie into competition with the best
that are to be found in the rest of the republic.
The quantity of tobacco exported from Am-
balema, is estimated at 2 or 3,000 loads, and
the farming of it would be productive of much be-
nefit to the government, were it not deprived of
the greatest part of its revenues by the contraband
trade, which maintains its ground in despite of
the twenty guards, who are here supported at an
expense of twenty dollars per month for each
man. It is singular that, in all parts of the world,
this class of men should be the subject of public
animadversion, and even here, their culpable in-
dulgence does not protect them from the hatred
of the people.
Tobacco of the first quality costs govern-
ment three dollars per arroba, and of the second
quality, ten reals ; it is retailed to private indivi-
duals at double this price. The time of making
these purchases is in April, May, and June. At
a little distance to the east of Ambalema, is a
place called Peladero, containing, according to
report, many gold mines.
On the 18th of September, after having taken
232 TRAVKLS IN THE
a fresh guide, which is indispensable in the plains
of Magdalena where so many roads intersect
each other, I left Ambalema. On the opposite
side of the river I could discern nothing but
very high mountains covered with forests, while
the side on which I was travelling, was en-
tirely destitute of the least shelter from the sultry
heat of the day. The stony soil reflected the
rays of the sun with terrible violence, and occa-
sioned us much suffering, from wiiich we could
find no alleviation but in the pure and limpid
stream that descends from the paramos of the
western Cordilleras.
We crossed the Benadillo which was nearly
dry, although frequently at this season the moun-
tain streams of the west suddenly swell, from the
melting of the snow, to such an extent, that tra-
vellers are compelled to remain several days be-
fore they can ford them in safety. On the other
side, on the contrary, the rivers being fed only
by the rain, their parched beds afford, at the same
period, an easy and commodious path.
On both sides of the Magdalena, a few isola-
ted cottages constructed with reeds, and con-
taining a sickly and feeble population composed
of different races of beings, are the sole asylums
in these desolate regions ; thus, while in Africa
the negroes congregate in small communities
to defend themselves against the invasions of
their neighbours, in these countries the inhabi-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 233
tants pass their days remote from one another ;
a few cows constituting their whole fortune, the
wine of their palm trees their sole consolation.
Sometimes they are found to possess a horse,
whose Avhole harness consists of wooden stirrups,
rope reins, and a piece of flat wood, by way of a
saddle, while the little flesh upon his bones at-
tests the frequent fasts he is obliged to endure in
these sun-burnt plains. These animals are not
however very dear, the best horses not selling for
more than twenty dollars a piece. The master
suffers as much from hunger as his beast, a little
flour of maize being all his nourishment.
I alighted about six o'clock at the hut of one
of these savages in a place called Puertillo, but
I only required a room for my luggage, as the
mild temperature of the nights made me prefer
sleeping in the open air. My hosts were plunged
into the deepest misery, and I could have ima-
gined I had before my eyes a family of Moors.
The covering of the females perfectly recalled to
my mind that of the women of Sahara, they wore
a dress of blue African cotton, without sleeves,
which they fastened across their shoulders with a
cotton lace. The men wore nothing but a pair
of drawers, and the upper part of their bodies
were so sun-burnt, that the colour of their skin
was almost completely black. They passed the
whole of the night in drinking palm-wiiie, which,
from their igfuorance of the use of the African
234 TRAVELS IN THE
hoop, they procure by felling the tree. This me^
thod would ultimately drain the source of their
pleasures, if the infinite number of the palm-trees
and the smallness of the population did not, at
least for a long time to come, remove the appre-
hension of so great a misfortune.
At an early hour in the morning, we left this
hut of christian savages of the Magdalena, and
soon after met some inhabitants of Ibagua, who
were going on a pilgrimage to Mendes, a village
at a little distance from Honda. An image of
the holy Virgin heis given it celebrity ; when
this was first placed there, the town was very
diminutive, but since that time it has encreased
every year in a most miraculous manner. Reli-
gion, in thus imparting a peculiar sanctity to
certain places, has opened a way for commerce,
and has established communications amongst
men in spite of bad roads, the dangers of the
journey, and the policy acted upon by the Spa-
niards which tended to isolate the inhabitants as
much as possible.
The heat appeared to me to be more support-
able in proportion as we advanced towards the
south, and approached the source of the river ;
the vicinity of the snowy summits of Quindiu,
was the principal cause of this change in the
temperature ; the ground was much less arid,
and much less encumbered with stones. The
grass was no longer rarely to be found, nor was it
REPUBLIC OF COLOMKFA. 235
burnt up witli the lieiit ; the appearance of the
verdure reanimated our beasts, andghiddened our
sight. We were now in the vast meadows of
the Cordilleras ; and, had it not been for the
rays of the sun and the sight of the palm-trees,
which on all sides majestically waved their
heads, I could have believed that I had quitted
the burning soil of the tropics, and had again en-
tered the European vallies of the Cordilleras.
I crossed the Totarus, and afterwards the
China, two rivers of great magnitude in the
rainy season, but which, at other periods, are
very low. Our passage up them was therefore
effected without danger, although we were a
long time in discovering the ford ; a hut at a
little distance afforded us an asylum.
I now greatly congratulated myself that I
had taken the route of the Magdalena for my
journey to Popayan, in preference to that of the
Mesa, which is usually preferred; for one expe-
riences an infinite satisfaction in the traversing,
in all its length, the innnense valley of this river,
no less beautiful than the plateau of Bogota. I
had the advantage of enjoying a very refreshing
gale from the south, which sprung up about two
clock every day, and continued blowing till
night, sufficiently strong to temper the ardent
heat of the sun. The people that I met with on
the road enabled me to form an opinion of the in-
habitants in the plains of the Oronooko, to whom
1 was assured they bore a great resernl)iaii('e.
236 TRAVELS IN THE
I crossed the Chipalo early in the morning,
as well as several other rivers, the deep vallies of
whose beds intersected my path at every step; a
circumstance that had not happened to us before,
as the waters of the torrents we had hitherto
passed were on a level with the surrounding
plains. We left Ibagua on our left ; and, al-
though we were at a considerable distance,
could clearly distinguish the church steeple,
though almost an imperceptible point in the
midst of the prodigious summits of Quindiu,
which elevated themselves above the town. If
my design of proceeding along the course of the
Magdalena, as far as Neyva, had not been tho-
roughly determined upon, the sight of this impos-
ing spectacle would have instantly inspired me
with the resolution of crossing the Quindiu, and
entering the valley of Cauca. Every thing con-
duced to invite me to such an undertaking ; the
season was very favourable, the mountains, at
this time, well frequented, presented but few
dangers, and without having recourse to the
shoulders of porters, this terrible passage might
have been performed in live days, upon mules
trained at Ibagua for that purpose, and hired at
the trifling expence of sixteen dollars.
I, however, continued my route to Neyva,
and had no reason to repent of my determi-
nation. Thanks to the influence of the moun-
tains covered with snow, which form the
Quindiu, the verdure was every where most
REPUBLIC OF COtX)MBIA. 237
beautiful. The less shrivelled appearance of the
shrubs announced a less arid temperature than
that which pervaded the lower regions. We had
a still better opportunity of observing the bene-
ficial effects of a change in the temperature, on
descending into the deep abyss which forms the
bed of the Cuello. The chilly, limpid streams of
this river, which rises in the snowy tops of Car-
tage, run through a tract of country much
lower than the surrounding plains, so that when
we viewed them from the level of the river, they
appeared like a chain of mountains, nor was it pos-
sible for us to conceive that they were all of an
equal altitude.
The coolness experienced in these deep hol-
lows is most delicious, and the vegetation is on
the grandest scale ; nothing can be more delight-
ful than the ravine of the Cuello. It might be
said to be composed of different stages, and the
lower one descends, the greater the fertility be-
comes ; it is for this reason that it is chosen as a
spot for the cultivation of tobacco, and the crop
which it produces is considered the best of
the Magdalena. The breadth of this valley is
considerable, and although it is a long journey to
reach the opposite banks, the prospect on all sides
is so extremely beautiful, that tlie distance is lost
in the enjoyment of it. The gentle warmth that
is felt between the tropics, the shade of the palm
and the bombax, and the fresh verdant turf
238 TRAVELS IN THE
which is like a carpet under the feet, impart
such sensations of delight, as banish every idea
of fatigue. Our joy was complete, on receiving
the rights of hospitality in the residence of one of
the guardians of these fruitful abodes. So great
a value is set upon the spots appropriated to the
rearing of cattle, that very strong hedges are
every where planted : these are kept in excellent
order, and are provided with large gates, which
are carefully guarded by men.
The inexpressible charm of these places has
naturally imparted some amenity to the character
of the inhabitants. They possess none of that
ferocious aspect which distinguishes their neigh-
bours in the plains of Puertillo ; they are oblig-
ing, attentive, and hospitable, with an air of
robust health created by plenty of good food. I
here provided myself with a stock of meat dried in
the sun.* Near the puerta San Francisco, where
we had passed the night, is the beginning of the
plain which is called by the natives L la jw Grande,
and which is distinguished from every other we
had before passed over by the almost perpetual
verdure that every where covers it ; by the
very few stones to be found upon it; and by
the considerable number of cattle that were
seen grazing in every direction. Three roads are
found at the puerta San Francisco : one leading to
* The butchers cut their meat into strips, and sell it by the
yard.
RKPUHLIC OP COLOMIMA. 239
Espinal, a village situated near the borders of the
Magdalena ; the other to Goaiiion, whieh is a
little further distant from it; and the third to
San-Luis, built at the foot of the western Cordil-
leras. I took the latter. We travelled upon a Sun-
day, and met numbers of people upon the road
going to visit their respective priests ; those who
were on their way to San-Luis soon left me
behind them, men and women being all mounted
on horseback. The females were wrapped from
head to foot in cotton dresses, to protect them
from the sun ; for, to repeat what I have before
observed, both whites and mulattoes are unable
like the negroes, to support the intensity of its
rays.
After having passed the ni ountains of Gua-
duas, I approached the Cordilleras ; it became
necessary to descend into the abyss, which the
Luisa has worked in its passage, and which pre-
sents a frightful sterility, scarcely the least ver-
dure appearing even upon the borders of the
river ; the opening by which it escapes from the
barrier of the Cordilleras, appears to have been
the eifect of an earthquake.
We were completely bewildered amid the
intricacies of a real labyrinth, and were many
times obliged to cross the dangerous bed of the
river, and travel along its sandy banks. It was
four o'clock before we quitted this gulf, which we
had entered at three. Having at length sur-
240 TRAVELS IN THE
mounted these difficulties, I had the pleasure of
seeing San-Luis, where I soon arrived. A spec-
tacle of desolation arrested my attention : a few
days before, half the village had been destroyed
by fire, and notwithstanding the generosity of N.
Caicedo, one of the richest proprietors of this
country, many of the inhabitants still remained
in the streets.
Thanks to the care of this worthy man, I
did not experience the same inconvenience ; for
I obtained a very comfortable lodging in the par-
sonage-house. Here I remained two days, being
obliged to exchange one of my mules that had
got injured, and procure myself another guide,
both which arrangements were concluded to my
satisfaction.
The site of the village of San-Luis is very
beautiful : well sheltered by the mountains from
the north-easterly winds, its temperature is con-
tinually refreshed by gentle gales ; and although
its seclusion from the more frequented parts
might seem to prevent its becoming of any com-
mercial importance, the sale of sugar manufac-
tured from the plantations of sugar-cane which
abound in its neighbourhood, causes it to be
much frequented by dealers in that article.
The neighbouring mountains abound in mines of
silver.
Almost every body is either afflicted with
goitres, or covered with the black leprosy, which
RKPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 241
afflicts the white population in the same manner
as the white leprosy attacks the blacks : both
the one and the other render the inhabitants
most hideous figures.
Upon arriving- at San-Luis on the 2'2d of
September, I found the rains had already com-
menced in these plains. I therefore started the
next day to endeavour to reach the sources of
the river before the wet miglit impede my fur-
ther progress. Before night-fall, I halted at a
solitary init ; but I was well prepared against
any deficiency of provisions, as it had been my
practice for a long time to carry with me a
store for several days, especially of bread,
since in all these regions no species of corn is
cultivated : it is imported from the eastern Cor-
dilleras.
I found my guide, w'ith whom I was well
satisfied, to be an interesting, intelligent fellow,
and far from possessing the usual taciturnity of
the Indians ; he talked much, and kept up a very
animated conversation. Born in Socorro, he had
all the vivacity of his countrymen ; had been a
great traveller ; had made considerable observa-
tions : and, what was more surprising-, recol-
lected all he had seen. I learnt from him, that
in the chain of the Quindiu, at the foot of which
we were travelling, there still existed many tribes
of independent Indians, but that there was no
danger to i)e apprehended in meeting with them,
R
242 TRAVELS IN THE
as had been sufficiently proved by numbers
of persons who were proscribed during,' the late
warfare, and had sought refuge in the woods
that cover these mountains.
We perceived Chaparral in the south-west,
at the extremity of a very extensive plain, sepa-
rated by a chain of mountains from that in
which we were ; its distance is one day's jour-
ney from San -Luis ; it is celebrated for the
storms that continually burst over it, and the rich
minerals that are discovered at every step ; the
hollow in which Chaparral is situated, into which,
in the rainy season, the north-east winds drive
with all their fury, is without doubt the cause
of those meteors that so frequently glide along its
atmosphere, continually charged with vapours.
At an early hour, we reached the borders
of the Saldana river, which rises in the Cha-
parral, and from the sands of whose banks some
gold is obtained ; but the thirsty traveller re-
gards as a treasure, far more precious the palm-
trees that overshadow its waters, less pure, in-
deed, than those of the Cuello ; but at the same
time less chilly, and consequently less dan-
gerous. A piruaga carried us across for the
moderate charge of two reals.
We now entered the territories of the Indians
of Coaima *, whose villages are situated upon the
* It is not without reason that the Indians regret the
ancient order of things, since they then enjoyed the privileges
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 243
brow of the western mountains. Upon quit-
ting- the borders of the fSaldana, we couki dis-
cover nothing- before us but plains of an im-
mense extent, covered witli withered herbage ;
the soil is nevertheless of a very good quality,
but it is never refreshed by the cool breezes that
blow from off the snowy mountains of the
Quindiu.
The assertion, that the Indians possess none
of those virtues which atone for many of the
vices of the mulattoes, is not incorrect ; the
truth of this I experienced in one of tiiose huts
which we encountered in our route, and in which
I determined to pass the night, as in these soli-
tudes no better habitation was to be seen. 1
could not attribute the cold reception I expe-
rienced, to the generally received opinion of
every stranger being a heretic, but rather to the
egotism of my host, and to the blind hatred of
the Indians to every individual who does not
belong to their cast.
Like all the Indians inhabiting the plains,
the family of my host wore no other clothing
of landed proprietors : the republic has deprived them of these,
by making- them only usufructuaries of that property, of which
it is virtually the sole possessor, since it alone has the right of
selling it. The republic has, however, given to the Indian vil-
lages, alcaids of their own cast, subject to a white alcaid ; but
the latter exercises no other species of authority over them
than that of transmitting to them the orders of government.
r2
244 TRAVRLS IN THE
than a strip of cloth round their loins in the
manner of the Africans, the rest of the bodv
being- quite naked. A flock of sheep, which
they watched with an attention common through
all the Cordilleras, formed the whole of their
fortune. The wool, which is but of a very in-
different quality, is collected with great care, and
sold in the neighbouring- villages at the price of
twelve reals the arroba. This is a great change
from what was formerly the practice, for they
used actually to pay persons for shearing the
sheep, and did not set the least value upon
the wool. Arts and civilization gradually ad-
vance ; but how slow is the education of these
people ! All foreigners are still Triptolemi, Bac-
chusses, and Vulcans, and cannot but be be-
nefactors in a country where the people are
ignorant of every thing. Compared with the
state of perfection to which we have arrived, the
inhabitants of South America bear the same re-
lation to us, as they bore to the Spaniards at
the time of the discovery of this continent ; they
knew nothing- then, and actually all they know
now is by hearsay, or by a few books, which some
educated persons have commenced reading ; no-
thing as yet has been carried into execution.
The following day, about noon, I passed
through Natagaima, another Indian villag-e, for-
merly built in another place, and afterwards re-
moved here from motives of salubrity and greater
lUJ'UBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 245
public utility. According to tlie popular tradi-
tion, the patron saint of the ancient place lias
twice set fire to the new church ; so that, when
I visited it, Natag-ainia was without a place of
worship. I know not why they call this misera-
ble handet an Indian village, for it contains but
very few Indians, nearly all the inhabitants being
mulattoes, and as it is only about six leagues
from la Purification, many of the inhabitants
of this part of the Magdalena liave settled at
Natagaima. On the opposite side in the eastern
Cordilleras we had a prospect of the villages of
Paramo and Alpujada.
From the place where I crossed the An-
chiqua, the distance between the two Cordille'
ras is lessened, and the plains begin to be co-
vered with bushy trees. Two days after we per-
ceived a mountain which projected forward
into the plains like a promontory into the ocean ;
and by six in the evening we arrived at the spot :
its name is Pakandc, and I was informed it con-
tained copper-mines. From the numerous vol-
canic stones which are every where scattered
about, as well as from the gaps in the earth,
of wliich there are numerous traces, and from
the peak with which the Pakanda is surmounted,
there cannot be the least doubt of its having
been, at some period, the mouth of a volcano.
Having fallen in with some huts at a little
distance, we demanded hospitality : it was offered
246 TRAVELS IN THE
US by a little child, and during the time that
we were making the best use of it, he made his
escape to announce our arrival, and to give an
alarm to his friends, who were occupied in the
fields. Thus, until six o'clock in the evening,
we were sole occupiers of the dwelling ; at this
time the proprietor returned, and appeared tran-
quillized as to our intentions, satisfied that, with-
out standing upon any ceremony, we had made
ourselves at home. At the bottom of his heart, this
Indian, perhaps, cursed our intrusion; for to
speak the truth, the continual passage of undis-
ciplined troops, has every where greatly increased
the distress of the inhabitants ; if they suppose
that the traveller is a military man, they betake
themselves to flight as soon as they gain sight
of him, as they would at the approach of an im-
placable enemy, and the timid beings leave him
master of all they possess: this is not worth
much, scarcely ever exceeding a little maize, and
a few green bananas.
My foreign appearance has often made me
pass some miserable moments, for after the fa-
tigues of a toilsome day, when I have approached
a place to which I had fondly looked forward to
obtaining some comfortable refreshment, I have
found myself unable to obtain either fire or
water, and have been obliged to content myself
with some bananas, and the bread and dried
meat which I always carried with me : — if on the
KKPUBLJC OF COLOMBIA. 247
contrary the master of the house has had the cou-
rage to remain, and if to the question with which
he invarial)ly at first addressed me : " Colonel,
are your soldiers with you r" I replied, " I have
none," his countenance Jjas sparkled with joy,
and, his fears being dissipated, he has treated
me with an obliging attention that dread could
never have commanded.
On the 26th we quitted the territory of the
Indians of Natagaima, through every part of
which reigns a frightful solitude. At eleven
o'clock, I passed that part in which the western
Cordillera has the least width, so that upon gain-
ing the summit, the route is continually upon a
descent towards the west, we there saw the vil-
lage of Lateko, near which are the gold mines of
Apore, said to be very rich. Further on we en_
tered upon a more woody country, covered
with palm-trees, the trunks of which are stronger
than those were of Africa, the oil extracted from
them is of great importance as an article of
commerce ; it is used instead of butter. At inter-
vals, posts are set up to mark the distances, and
here and there tambos,* for the accommodation
of travellers, as it is but very rarely that any habi-
tions are to be met with ; they may indeed occa-
sionally be seen, but then they are perched upon
the steepest acclivities, and so dispersed, that they
doubtless have but very little communication
♦ A Peruvian word, sif;;nifying' caravansary.
248 TRAVELS IN THE
with each other. The distance at which these peo-
ple live from any parish chinch, obliges them to
inter their dead in the fields. These tombs are
usually erected by the side of the most frequented
routes, and thus amidst the wilds of the Cordil-
lera we may recognize a custom that was com-
mon to the Greeks and Romans. These sepul-
chres, the sole evidence of the residence of hu-
man beings, do not, in such a situation, excite
melancholy reflections, as they show that, at a
short distance, resides the family of the person
who here reposes in his last abode, and a certain
pleasure is experienced at the certainty of not
being in an uninhabited desert. I however for-
bore seeking in the woods for the concealed dwel-
lings, and hastened to arrive again upon the bor-
ders of the Magdalena which I crossed at a place
that is called Samborja. The river, at this spot,
is not very wide, and its green tinged waters
show that it is fed from the sources of the Para-
mos.
We soon crossed to the other side, where we
obtained a little refreshment from some fisher-
men. We partook of it in company with some
bogas, who were conducting balsas or rafts laden
with cocoa. Eacli raft contained twenty loads,
the expense being six dollars for the whole voyage.
This means of carriage is the one mostly used in
these cantons, on account of the rocky banks
every where met with, besides the luggage boats
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 249
seldom come hi<^her up the river than Am-
baleiiui.
The heat of the place as well as the noisy
company with which I was surrounded, deter-
mined me to sleep in the open air, at the risk of
being blooded by the mosquitoes. This was not
the only inconvenience which reminded me of the
uncomfortable resting- places lower down the
river, for in this one, the crying- of children, with
the dread of serpents, scorpions, and millepedes,
very common in these parts, did not leave me a
single moment of repose. Happy should I have
been if my hostess, to relieve the wearisomeness
of a long night, had continued chaunting her
Indian ditties whilst she was swinging in her
hammock, and accompanying herself with her
guitar. By midnight every one except myself was
in a state of repose, but the hideous noises made
by a troop of pigs and dogs, that seemed to try
which could most frighten each other, prevented
me from closing my eyes.
At day break, I ordered the guides to saddle
the mules, and joyfully quitted the unfortunately
encountered hut of Samborja. Before ten I ar-
rived at Villa-Vieja, a village about six Spa-
nish leagues distance, where I established my-
self for the remainder of the dav, under a shed
thatched with reeds, that an inhabitant gave me
permission to occupy. The road as far asA'illa-
Vieja had been excessively fatiguing for seve-
250 TRAVELS IN THE
ral days past ; there were none of those south-west-
erly breezes that so charmingly temper the plains
of Ambalema and San-Loiiis. We had travelled
all the day under a burning heat, caused by
the nature of the ground which is composed of
sharp stones, and rocks bearing so close a re-
semblance to ruined fortresses, that it is diffi-
cult not to imagine them the produce of men's
labour ; these works of nature vie with those as-
tonishing pyramids that Ulloa mentions having
seen in his travels in Peru.
Villa-Vieja is situated at a little distance
from the Magdalena, the heat of its climate is
suffocating, on account of the approximation of
the two Cordilleras, the eastern range of which
is here so little elevated, that it forms no impe-
diment to the winds of the plains of Guaviare,
which sweep along the bed of the river. It is
asserted that these winds never reach across the
Magdalena, but I had no opportunity of veri-
fying the fact ; it is not so however with the nor-
therly winds, for their influence is general.
The church of Villa-Vieja, which they were
building when I was at the place, deserves some
notice Its architect is a negro ; his plan upon
the model of some churches at Bogota is regu-
lar, and shews much study and good taste.
This edifice will cost the parish 14,000 dollars,
but this enormous sum will be paid by all the
wealthy inhabitants, each being required to
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 251
leave at his death, funds siifTicient to construct
a square yard of tlie building-.*
Opposite to Vilhi-Vieja, is Aipa, a village
inhabited by Indians, wlio are reputed by the
lower orders to be well skilled in astrology.
The lieat, which I had experienced during the
preceding day, made me regret that I had not
followed the advice of my guides, to travel as
much as possible by night. For once I gave
them credit for being right, and leaving Villa-
Vieja at two o'clock in the morning, we got to
Fortalissa by ten ; here I found some mer-
chants who were travelling to Bogota with the
intention of making a purchase of salt, and car-
rying it to Popayan.
Resuming my journey, I discovered in the
midst of the arid plains in which I had been tra-
velling since the morning, a wood intersected
with numerous paths, forming a screen that de-
prived us of a view of Neyva, but aftbrding us
a shelter from the overpowering heat which we
had experienced in the plains of Vilhi-Vieja.
Some brooks spread around a delicious coolness
in these groves, and their waters flowed on all
sides through a multitude of trenches which the
inhabitants of Neyva had opened, to water the
roots of their cocoa trees. The cool tempe-
rature enjoyed in this place is very agreeable,
* The bricks used in this buikliii-i-, arc vi-ry larofi' ; tin y
cost 15 piastres a thousand.
252 TRAVELS IN THE
and the air was scented with the perfume of
flowers which grew along the borders of the
rivulets. I forgot all my sufferings in this de-
lightful garden, although, had it been the rainy
season, I should, on the contrary, have been mi-
serable at finding myself in the midst of im-
passable marshes, formed by the overflowing
of the rivers, and arresting the progress of every
traveller.
At two o'clock we entered Neyva, where
hospitality was immediately afforded ns, for
which we were indebted to one of the wealthy
inhabitants. I requested a continuance of his
courtesy for two days, but he would not limit
it. Tliis time was however sufficient for me to
procure a mule, one of my own having been
injured at Fortalissa. They had neglected
shoeing it, an omission which causes the loss of
great numbers of these beasts of burden. I had
also to procure a. new guide, the one whom I had
engaged at San-Louis being about to leave me
and return home.
Neyva which is seventeen days' journey from
Bogota, is the chief town of the province of that
name. It is situated on the borders of the Mag-
dalena, was formerly built on the mountains,
where the Andaquis, a race of savage Indians
living in the neighbourhood, massacred all the
inhabitants ; the terror which they spread occa-
sioned the site of the new town to be placed
UKPL'BLIC OF COLOMIJIA. 253
near the river, so that, upon the least alarm, the
people might embark and escape their fury.
The climate of Neyva is excessively hot, but
the waters of the Magdaleiia are very cold, being
supplied from the neighbouring paramos. Their
colour is greenish, and although tlieir taste is not
disagreeable, the springs, which traverse the
town, are preferred for drinking. The caymans
never show themselves near Neyva.
Opposite this place, is the hamlet of Saint
Andras, in the environs of which gold is collected.
The ground near the village of St. Antonio, si-
tuated in the cold regions of the eastern Cor-
dilleras, produces a great quantity of fine ve-
getables. No difficulty would therefore be ex-
perienced in obtaining crops of corn, but the
inhabitants, reluctant to depart from long es-
tablished customs, prefer bringing flour from
Bogota, at the rate of sixteen dollars per load,
to procuring it at their own doors with very lit-
tle trouble.
Cocoa forms the principal riches of Neyva.
It is estimated that this province alone furnishes
annually two thousand loads, a large portion
of which comes from the town of Timana, al-
though its population does not exceed two thou-
sand souls. A load of cocoa cost thirty piastres.
The expense of transporting it to Honda, is es-
timated at twentv reals. It is one of those articles,
which with coffee and sugar, is not subject to tithes.
254 TRAVELS IN THE
As Neyva produces no sugar, it is obtained either
from Mesa, or from la Plata, at the rate of one
real per pound ; salt likewise is procured from the
same place at the same price.
The inhabitants of Neyva have, by the way
ofTimana, some intercourse with the Andaquis,
who live about eig-ht days' journey from this place,
near the source of the Magdalena. They furnish
these Indians with knives, looking-glasses, glass
beads, &c., and receive in exchange wax of a
brilliant whiteness, and varnish which they use
in covering several sorts of wooden bowls. The
preparation of this varnish is very simple ; the
workman puts it in his mouth, masticates it,
spreads it into leaves with the palms of his bands,
and thus applies it on the colours. Neyva is by
no means opulent, for the war, as well as the fre-
quent ravages of the ants, has nearly ruined it.
The streets are not paved, there are not six hou-
ses covered with tiles. The greater part of the
population is composed of men of colour, and
the diseases to which they are most subject are
the elephantiasis and leprosy.
The principal town in the province after
Neyva is Timana, situated near the sources of
the Magdalena ; this town is the last of the re-
public in the basin of this river ; beyond it only a
few hamlets, some solitary huts and savages are
to be met with. The journey to the sources of
the Magdalena cannot be performed on horseback.
REPUBLIC OF COI^MBIA. 255
for the roads, upon some of the highest inoiiu-
tains are so narrow, as only to be traversed by
foot passengers.
Rafts are the only mode of navigation in all
these parts, the trunk of a tree forms the keel,
and some reeds the deck and hold. On these fra-
gile rafts guided only by a single oar, a wliole
family will sometimes fearlessly commit itself to
the rapid current of the river, being certain
that their flexible materials will bend, but nut
break, if dashed against the rocks. In this man-
ner a poor labourer prepares for his journey to
Honda. He hastily constructs his raft, places in
it a few sacks of cocoa, seats his wife upon them,
and, with his dog at his side, takes his oar, and
through the midst of the breakers, steers his
hopes and his beloved, whose cotton mantle
sometimes suspended to the mast, forms a sail
which increases the swiftness of his bark.
256 TRAVELS IN THK
CHAPTER XIV.
Tambo del Ovo — Passo Domingarios — Rope Bridge — La Plata — Pedregai
San Francisco — Insa — Mountain of Guanacas — Totoro — Panikita —
Popayau — Volcano of Purace.
I QUITTED Neyva on the 30tli of vSeptember at
seven o'clock in the morning ; in the evening,
I perceived by the road-side, a cottage of rather
inviting appearance ; what was my surprise upon
arriving at it, to find it stripped and deserted,
its owners, pillaged by the soldiers, had fled into
the mountains. There being no other habitation
in the neighbourhood, my guides overcame their
fear of ghosts, and we put up for the night in
this solitary hut. As a substitute for a kettle to
cook our supper in, we placed some stones in
the fire, these when red hot, we threw into a ca-
labash containing some chocolate ; this formed
our repast.
The next day, the 1st of October, I passed
through Ovo, and Sevilla, villages situated on
our left, and breakfasted at the tambo of Ovo.
The tambos are thatched sheds, erected upon
the highways by the nearest municipalities as
caravansaries of merchants and soldiers, but in
general very little accommodation is to be found
REPUBLIC OF COLOMIilA.
'2.-, 7
in them. In the neighbourhood of the tanil)o
del Ovo, several cottages have been l)uilt ; hi
these women dress provisions, which, although
coarse, are very welcome ; it is astonishing that
this example has not been imitated in the neigh-
bourhood of other tambos, by inducing persons
to settle there, who would thus be of great uti-
lity to travellers. It is true that the majority of
these carry their provisions witli them, that is
to say, a few yards of dried meat,* and chocolate ;
they are almost always provided with moist sugar,
which, in this country, is generally eaten pre-
viously to drinking water ; the consumption is
therefore considerable.
After quitting the tambo del Ovo, several
ravines are traversed, the inhabitants of which
wash the sand to procure from it the particles of
gold with which it is mixed ; the Llanos or plains
are then quitted for the mountains, where, the
roads leading from Neyva to Timana and to
Gigante, and on the other side to the INIag-
dalena unite, only to separate : we chose the
latter one. Before night, I arrived on the banks of
this river which I crossed at the Passo Domin-
garios ; this did not take up much time, as the
JNIagdalena is not above thirty toises in width.
Having disembarked on the strand, which is whol-
ly composed of pebbles and rocks, we proceeded
* Dried meat is always cut into strips, and sold by tlie
yard.
S
258 TRAVELS IN THE
to a hut known by my g-uide ; it Avas at a con-
siderable distance from the road, the intention
of the owner being, as he afterwards informed
me, to escape the billeting and the pillage of
the soldiery.
This man received us with kindness, and
lodged us in his own room : it was a stinking pi-
geon house : the birds wliich were perched over
our heads, hindered us from sleeping by their
cooing"S, and our host took the opportunity
of telling us how much he regretted the destruc-
tion of a chapel erected near his hut, which
had been entrusted to his care by the curate of
Neyva ; this charge had lately been confided to
him upon condition of his placing- there a mira-
culous Virgin; in fulfilment of this bargain, the
poor fellow had undertaken a laborious journey
to Santa-F^, had there purchased of a very pious
woman an imag-e gifted with miraculous powers,
and congratulating himself at having obtained it
at the moderate price of twelve piastres, had
returned in all haste to his chapel and his hut.
The curate, satisfied with his scrupulous
exactitude, lost no time in attributing to the
sacred image the most efficacious virtues, placed
it with no small pomp and solemnity in the most
striking part of the chapel, and established a
fete in honour of this patroness, to which the
parishioners were annually invited. The journey
from Neyva to j)asso Domiiigarios, is so agreeable
REPUBLIC OP COLOMBIA. 259
amid a ricli and fertile country, that it was fre-
quented by crowds ; our host, as a reward for his
devotions, found plenty of hungry pilgrims re-
pair to his hut, and had the precaution to furnish
it well with all sorts of provisions ; these it was
not difficult to obtain, for the offerings brought
by the pious, such as eggs, fowls, &c., served
them afterwards as a meal. This prosperity was
however transitory : the war broke out, the sol-
diers of the republic contented themselves with
eating the offerings, and respected the image of
the chapel ; but the Spaniards broke it in pieces :
" Therefore," added our host, with all the satisfac-
tion of vengeance, " these wretches of Godos*
are now beaten on all sides, God punishes them
in every battle for their infamous sacrilege."
The next day I continued ascending, for the
country began to be very elevated, and the roads
became in consequence very bad. Population was
so scarce, that we were obliged to take our repose
in the middle of the fields : sometimes lialting
under a tree by the side of a rivulet. Between
the tropics, it is a treat to breakfast in the shade,
and to procure fresh and limpid water.
If the dispersion of the inhabitants caused
by the fear inspired by the passage of troops, is
favourable to the clearing of new lands and the
* Goths ; the name given by the Colombians to the Spa-
niards.
s 2
2(i()
TRAVELS IN THE
increase of the population which is always on
the decline in towns ; on the other hand, as the
markets are not held in consequence of the des-
truction of the villages, no one sows more than is
sufficient for the maintenance of his family; this
is very little : the church even offers but a small
attraction, as the ecclesiaistics no longer mount
the pulpit except to preach contribution and tax-
ation ; men consequently accustom themselves to
live isolated, and visit each other but seldom; and
when intercourse is interrupted amongst a peo-
ple, commerce, agriculture, and industry become
extinct; ignorance spreads itself in all direc-
tions, and excesses of every kind are the conse-
quence.
The western Cordillera in which we then
were, did not appear to me more practicable than
that of the east, for I found the roads there equally
as difficult and dangerous. The pass which we
surmounted about nine o'clock in the morning, is
named the Volador del Nema, and is not unat-
tended with danger. The word volador signifies
a mountain on the side of which a path has been
formed, but so narrow, that in many places two
mules cannot pass each other ; when such a cir-
cumstance happens, one of them is obliged to
return backwards, until he comes to a place
wide enough to allow the other to get by him.
Precipices of a fi'ghtful depth border these slip-
pery roads.
RIvPUHLIC OK COLOMBIA. 2() I
These tlifliculties happily overcome, we fouiul
ourselves in a plain of considerable extent, si-
tuated on the summit of a lofty mountain ; it is
very fertile, and enjoys a delightful temperature,
its breadth is inconsiderable, so that to the right
and left of the bottom of the mountain, we could
perceive deep vallies covered with rich meadows.
'I'liat which we had on our right is watered by the
Pa'ij a river that falls into the Magdalena, at the
Passo-Domingarios. — To the north-west is Car-
niseria a small hamlet, thinly peopled ; and at a
distance isNataya inhabited by a tribe of Indians,
who speak a language peculiar to themselves.
The heat we experienced was here tempered
by breezes from the west south-west, which con-
tinued to blow till we arrived at Paical. — We
found the village deserted, it having been depo-
])ulated the year before by an epidemia ; violent
pains in tlie head and loins, followed by the fre-
quent spitting of black blood, were the first symp-
toms of the disease, which generally proved fatal
on tl»e eleventh day. Punch was the only remedy
employed, and in many cases it was not unsuc-
cessful. The Indians were all free from this dis-
order, which justifies the saying of the mulattoes,
that, " The Indians are never ill."
The following day, leaving the banks of the
Pai, I proceeded along those of the Rio de la
Plata which falls into it ; and before two o'clock
in the afternoon, arrived in siglit of the town of
262 TRAVELS IN THE
that name. We could not immediately enter it on
account of the bridg-e of communication not
being' sufficiently commodious for the number of
persons going to and from la Plata. On each
side of the river, leather bands are made fast to
stakes driven in the ground, and upon this tara-
bita (for thus they call this singular sort of a
bridge) is placed a piece of wood furnished with
leather straps, by which the traveller is fastened,
and according to whichever side he wishes to
go, he is drawn across. The passage at first
seems rather alarming, and one cannot, without
shuddering, find one's self suspended over an abyss
by a few hide ropes, which are very liable to be
injured by the rain, and consequently to break ;
accidents however seldom happen; animals are
made to swim across.
When I gained the Plata shore, one of the in-
habitants came to offer me hospitality, though I
mistiTisted this forwardness, so uncommon among
the Spaniards, I accepted his invitation with plea-
sure, on the hint given me by another inhabitant
that my host had just killed an ox; a circum-
stance, which in these villages causes the day upon
which it happens, to be considered as one of
great importance. In order to arrive at his house,
I passed through a part of the town, exceeding
all I had ever seen in wretchedness ; the greater
part of the inhabitants whom I met, and who
were all men of colour, being disfigured by enor-
Ri:iUiBLJC OF COLOMHIA 2().'i
inous g-oitres; tliey were besides disgustingly
dirty, and tlieir ragged coverings afforded no
concealenient to the leprous sores that afflicted
them.
I was perfectly satisfied with my host, he
procured me guides and mules, bought for me
whatever provisions I might want in crossing the
solitarv deserts of Guanacas, and shewed me many
attentions. At la Plata 1 became acquainted
with a Prussian general who was returning from
Popayan, witii the intention of embarking for
Europe. — This rencontre in the midst of the de-
serts of New Grenada, was somewhat singular ;
at tlie foot of the Tarabita,'in view of those pro-
digiously high summits where the de la Plata
derives its source, and where formerly another
town of that name stood, two inhabitants of the
old world, as they are called by the Americans,
experienced some delight in recalling it to their
recollection.
I was preparing to take my leave of the alcaid
to whom I was under some obligations, when I
was informed that his colleague, who was also
his debtor, had caused him to be arrested for his
political opinions, and had thrown him into a
narrow dungeon. This unfortunate event afflicted
me very much, yet I was so confident of the jus-
tice of the cause of the worthy alcaid, that I de-
parted, not doubting the favourable termination
of the affair. When I had got half way between
264 TRAVELS IN THB
la Plata and the place where I intended to spend
the night, I passed near an iron mine* ; the inhabi-
tants of the neighbourhood derive no advantage
from it. I henceforth did not quit the banks of
the Pai. This river gives its name to a jurisdiction
of eighteen Indian villages situated to the west
south-west of la Plata. Each village is governed
by a chief of their own election, and all are un-
der the controul of a white magistrate who lives
at Ouila. These Indians are christians and sub-
jects of the state. They have a particular system
of municipality which is common to all those
countries that were formerly called, "Tierras
de Indias".
We were surprised by a storm near a cottage
situated in a place called Cuevas, and were hospi-
tably received. When our host, who was absent,
returned, his daughter knelt before him to receive
his blessing, and when at night she lighted a
candle, repeated a long prayer, a custom very
general among the country people.
The next day we experienced considerable
difficulty in climbing up a very high mountain,
which the rains, that had fallen for some days,
had rendered extremely slippery. It was very late
before I arrived at Pedregal, an Indian village ;
all the inhabitants with the exception of the
* It is a singular circumstance that for ages the Africans
have worked the iron mines in their country, whilst on the
other hand, the Indians have made no use of theirs.
REP II BMC OF COLOMBIA. ^(J)
curate had fled. I have ah-eady observed that,
since the breaking out of the war, hospitaHty had
become a scourge from which the people saved
themselves by taking up their abode in inacces-
sible places ; thus a few years of contention liave
destroyed the work of three centuries. The In-
dians grown familiar to the yoke, threw it off, and
returning to the woods, resumed their former
barbarous manners.
We followed the course of a river called
the Ulliicos, and when on the top of the moun-
tains forming its western bank, had a view of
Santa-Rosa, which, from the whiteness of its
buildings placed amidst frightful precipices, is
distinguishable from a great distance, and pro-
duces a beautiful effect in the perspective. On
the banks of the UUucos some manufactories are
established for the preparation of the salt produced
from the mine of Segovia, which is close by, but
the quantity is not sufficient for the consumption
of the country.
After having traversed San Franciso, I ar-
rived at Insa where I spent the night. Inhabi-
tants were no where to be met with ; a circum-
stance rendered tlie more disagreeable by one's
being tormented by thousands of insects of every
kind ; an annoyance which is not experienced in
the eastern Cordilleras, where the cold is notwith-
standing as severe as in the western.
At Santa-Fe they had given me a terrific
266 TRAVELS IN THE
description of the Guanacas, it was not in the
least exag-ge rated. When travelling through the
Socorro I had imagined that the roads were the
worst I should ever have to encounter; but I had
as yet seen nothing. It is true that, here, they
did not present the frightful aspect of the rocks
of Guacha, but the difficulties experienced were
not the less terrible. To render these mountains
accessible^ square pieces of wood have been placed
at equal distances, where the feet of the mules
slip at every step they take, then, the humidity
which, for ages has continued to soften this muddy
ground, has formed a complete marsh in which
horses sink at the risk of never rising- more.
Every thing- concurs to increase the danger, for
there are numerous springs from which the water
bursts forth with violence, overthrowing the rude
labours of the Indians, and rolling down in tor-
rents, which threaten the traveller with destruc-
tion. Even at the period when they are driest,
one is soaked through, the mists in which these
mountains are enveloped being dissolved into
drizzling rain which almost freezes the unfortu-
nate traveller. We arrived quite benumbed with
cold at the tambo de la Ceja, where we rested no
longer than was necessary to refresh our mules, as
we should not find another habitation witliin two
days' journey. One of my mules overcome with
fatigue stopped suddenly in the middle of this
dreadful road ; and as no time was to be lost,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 2()7
I was obliged, greatly against iny inclination, to
leave the poor animal in this situation, where he
was destined to become the victim of l)easts of
prey, musqiiitoes, or cold.
The rain still continued to fall, and night
approached ; we were obliged to quicken our
pace, notwithstanding- the fatigues of the day,
and had just enoug-h twilig"ht to proceed to
the tambo de los Corales, where two Indian salt
merchants had already established themselves,
and were cooking- their supper at a fire, which,
from the wood being constantly wet, they had
had considerable trouble in lighting. These tam-
bos are so badly constructed, as to afford but
little shelter from the inclemency of the weather.
The government is at no expence in improving
these miserable asylums, the only ones which the
traveller meets with in the midst of the stormy
nights of these elevated regions. The water
flows in on all sides, and the wood, always
wet, ignites with difficulty ; thus, after having
spent the night soaked through, every limb be-
numbed with cold, and bathed in blood by the
bites of the mosquitoes, one rises the next day
in order to cross tlie terrible Guanacas, without
having- taken any nourishment than that of a few
bananas, and often without having eaten any
thing. We experienced all these miseries ; the
rain did not cease to inundate us, and we pro-
cured no other warmth than that which our
268 TRAVELS IN THE
mules afforded us, by disputing with us our
wretched habitation.
As soon as daylight appeared, our eyes were
fixed upon the summit of the Guanacas, and my
experienced guides assured me that we should have
a fine day, and a pleasant journey. The mules
were immediately saddled, and we departed with
the assurance that the paramo would be free from
storms. The first part of our journey we travel-
led, as on the preceding evening, through thick
forests of low trees loaded with water, which de-
luged us every time our mules touched their
branches. The road was, perhaps, better than
before ; for, as it was formed upon rocks, the
water ran over it without producing any of those
dangerous marshes we had met with in other
places. In proportion as we ascended, we ob-
served the vegetation to be more sickly, and soon
perceived that we were near the paramo from the
number of bleached human bones which lay scat-
tered all around. Perhaps, alas ! they were those
of the proscribed, who had concealed themselves
in these frightful retreats during the late wars ;
one might have supposed it to have been a field
of battle ; — here, were shoes, there, female cloth-
ing ; further on the head of an infant indi-
cated its having died after having lost its mother.
Our company became serious and silent as we
advanced into these desolate regions : we were
all gay in the morning, but now not a word was
llEPUIiLIC OF COLOMBIA. 269
spoken, and wc only looked at each other to see
whether fatigue did not excite in some of us a
fatal propensity to sleep, that we might prevent
its being indulged. We soon after saw nothing
but a few crooked and stunted trees covered with
moss, and nearly falling from age: these were
succeeded by frailecons, whose yellow flowers are
so brilliant amid the surrounding desolation.
We were now opposite a lake of small extent.
The danger is very great, if tiie passage be at-
tempted when the tempest agitates it, and an icy
wind blows, which is fatal to those who yield to
fatigue or the want of repose.
Near this fearful spot we recognized the
garments of a clergyman, and of two black ser-
vants, who had fallen dead beside him ; and, at
a short distance, saw many mules, whicli, aban-
doned by their masters, were living upon fraile-
cons, waiting till a tempest should terminate
their misfortunes by death. We now found the
ground less stony and much drier, being now
upon the western side of the Guanacas. The sky
was cloudy, but without a threatening aspect,
and we now and then saw the sun as in our
winters ; his rayless disk scarcely warmed us,
whilst, at tlie distance of a day's journey, glow-
ing with light, he poured torrents of fire on the
inhabitants of the banks of the Cauca.
The journey was very long, and it was eight
in the evening before we arrived at Totoro, where
270 TRAVELS IN THE
the inhabitants speak a peculiar dialect. Upon
the walls of the house where we passed the night,
some one had written two verses in French, ex-
pressive of much ang-uish, and in perfect keep-
ing with the aspect of the country from which
we had just descended. Notwithstanding my
fatigue of the preceding evening, I had no incli-
nation to remain at Totoro, for the inhabitants,
who are all Indians, are reputed to be thieves. I
therefore set out at day-break, and, upon arriving
on the heights which command Totoro, per-
ceived the superb valley of Popayan. As we de-
scended towards these fertile plains, the heat in-
creased, and the temperature became more agree-
able ; we were soon at Panikita. This village is
inhabited by Indians who speak a language dif-
ferent from that of the inhabitants of Totoro. In
spite of the filth and nastiness prevailing in the
interior of their houses, they have displayed some
taste and care in the disposition of their streets,
which are bordered with hedges, while the water
flows on both sides in covered canals ; the church
of Panikita is extremely neat.
Having already obtained a view of Popayan,
I was very desirous of arriving there ; and, al-
though the road was variegated by beautiful
country seats and well-cultivated fields, it ap-
peared to me long and fatiguing ; besides the
plain of Popayan, which, from the summit of
the mountains had appeared to me quite a level
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. '271
sui'lace, was interspersed with elevations, these,
traversing- the road, rendered travelling very dis-
agreeable. It is a rugg-ed country, like the val-
ley of Socorro, so level when viewed from the
heig-hts of the Cordilleras, but so uneven in rea-
lity. A light bridge of reeds served us to pass
the Palaca, which runs at a tremendous depth
between two ridges of rocks that looked as if
they had formerly been but one. This place was
not destitute of interest to my guides ; it recal-
led to their recollection the battle which Narino
fought here against the Spaniards, and in which
he was conqueror, notwithstanding his unfavour-
able position and the small number of his un-
disciplined troops.
On each side of the road were elegant
houses, the opulence of which might be sur-
mised from the comfortable appearance of their
negro majordomos, who were mounted on fine
horses well harnessed. Passing near me, and
perceiving that I was a foreigner, they took much
pride in making them prance. At four o'clock, I
entered the village bearing the name of the Cauca,
near which it is built ; crossing a brick bridge
built by the Spaniards, which is tolerably hand-
some but very narrow, I proceeded along a
pleasant road in the direction of Popayan, and
arrived in that town at five o'clock ; accord-
ing to the custom of the country, I was lodged
in a shop.
272 TRAVELS IN THE
It is said that the position of Popayan
seems to have been created by the imagination of
poets ; and, in fact, it is difficult to find one
more beautiful : it was selected by Benalcazar,
who is less known than either Pizarro, Cortez, or
Quesada, but deserves to be more celebrated,
as he was the founder of many towns, all delight-
fully situated.
The valley of Popayan has not the gigantic
magnificence of that of Santa-F^, but the air is
so pure ; the country fertilized by its vicinity to
the snowy mountains of Puraca is so rich, and its
temperature is so mild, that one would be almost
tempted to give it a preference over the plateau
of the other Cordilleras, if the number of disgust-
ing insects, particularly fleas, did not render tlie
place almost uninhabitable.
It is not so easy to draw a comparison be-
tween the two towns of Popayan and Bogota, as
each of them possesses advantages highly valua-
ble, but entirely different. Santa-F^, though not
so well built, will perhaps please strangers more,
merely from its being the capital. The houses of
Popayan are, however, more handsomely con-
structed, and there are some that would not dis-
figure the finest parts of our own cities; the street
of Belen is particularly remarkable, the houses
are all one story high, built in a straight line,
and bordered with well-paved trottoirs ; the
windows are closed with balconies, and there are
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 273
none of those grating-s which produce so gloomy
an effect.
Some taste is displayed in the architecture
of their churches ; they have a fault, however,
in common with all the edifices of Popayan,
that of the height being- too great for the width
of the building" : a defect very unpleasant to the
eyes of Europeans, who are accustomed to more
exact proportions.
The warehouses make not a very gay appear-
ance, for as there are no markets held here, all
provisions are sold in the shops, which, in compa-
rison with the number of the inhabitants, are
more numerous than at Santa-F^.
There are numerous squares, these, how-
ever, offer nothing worthy of remark ; the greater
part of the houses surrounding them are falling
into ruin. Many other proofs may be adduced of
the decay of Popayan, in which there once re-
sided many inhabitants, worth a million of dol-
lars. The excessive sobriety of the inhabitants,
their dress, and their deportment, show that the
war has entirely ruined this town, formerly en-
riched by the commerce of Santa-F'^ and Quito,
of which it was the entrepot, and by the mines of
gold in the Choco, and on the banks of Cauca,
which belonged to the inhabitants. There are
still four families in Popayan, who enjoy a for-
tune of 400,000 dollars, but this is only the
wreck of their immense riches, which they con-
T
274 TRAVELS IN THB
tinue to sacrifice every day to the republican
cause they have embraced.
There is but one convent for men in Po-
payan, and that belongs to the Franciscans ; the
other monasteries, to the great regret of the
inhabitants, have been converted into barracks,
and their revenues devoted to the foundation
of a college. These new arrangements have
greatly displeased the inhabitants, who are very
partial to the monks ; it is even apprehended,
that they may occasion an insurrection, as was
the case at Maracaibo.
The commerce of Popayan consists of some
woollen cloths *, which, on account of the war,
are obliged to be conveyed by the way of Bar-
bacoas, or by San-Buenaventura, in order to
forward them to Quito and Guayaquil ; they also
trade in European baizes, the salt of Santa-F^, the
gi*ain of Pasto, Timana cocoa, and Cali sugar.
If any credit could be given to what the
people of Santa- Fe say of those of Popayan, the
latter would be regarded as rather unsociable. It
must be acknowledged, that they are haughty in
their manners, as well as very affected in their con-
versation ; but, in general, they are more dignified
than the people of Santa-Fe. In other respects,
they are more obliging and polite, but extreme-
ly avaricious ; they are also much reproached for
* Particularly red, yellow, and green baizes, which are
sold at 22 reals per vara.
RRPIIHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 275
their negligence, a very natural fault in a peo-
ple possessing slaves.
Both men and women have a fine physiog-
nomy ; tiiey have preserved the solemn deport-
ment of the Spaniards, together with their fea-
tures ; many families seem to be of Jewish ori-
gin. The number of negroes and mulattoes is
double that of the whites, and the quarrelsome
disposition of these slaves, almost enfranchised
by the disorders of the war, causes much uneasi-
ness to the whites, especially when they reflect
that, between Pasto and Carthagena, there are
none but blacks to be met with in the western
Cordilleras.
The recent insurrection of the negroes of
Barbacoas and Patia has caused much alarm at
Popayan. Would the white population of this
town be sufficiently strong to arrest the torrent,
should it rush in upon them ? The whites place
much reliance upon the help of the Indians, the
mortal enemies of the negroes ; but their assist-
ance would be of very little use against such
strong and brave men, skilful in the manage-
ment of horses and arms.
The Indians of Popayan differ very little
from those of Santa-F^, except that they are
darker and not quite so tall ; their costume is
the same in all respects, except the head-dress,
called montera ; this consists of a hat similar to
those of the Chinese mandarins, and is made of
T 2
276 TRAVFLS IN THE
pieces of cloth of different colours. The whites
follow the fashions of Santa-F^, but, like all the
people of the provinces, dress without either art
or taste.
The gold mines are abandoned, and scarcely
support those who still work them ; the convents
of Carmen and Incarnation, which possess some
that are very rich*, see the produce daily dimi>
nish, through the desertion or death of the slaves
who work them.
If the secular and regular clergy are not
rich, the bishop at least is extremely so, his in-
come being reckoned at 40,000 dollars per
annum.
I formed the project, during my stay in this
town, of visiting the mountain of Purace, whose
snowy summit overlooks and fertilizes the valley
of Popayan. In consequence of this resolution,
I set out on the 14th of October, and proceeded
eastward ; although the road was dry, and tole-
rably level, it was late before I arrived on the
banks of the Vinagra, a river which flows from
the volcano of Purace, and whose waters are
almost as sour as vinegar. We then ascended
the mountain as high as the village of Purace,
where we were to pass the night ; and as we en-
tered it, saw a small party of Indians carrying
ice to Popayan.
The situation of Purace is very agreeable,
* See Note X.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 277
this village being above the valley of Popayan.
The inhabitants are frequently incommoded by a
black dust brought by the north north-west wind,
which is very cold; but notwithstanding this
rigorous climate, there is a very high palm-tree
in the middle of the village,
The streets and the cottages of Purace are
arranged very neatly, each house being built in
the midst of a good-sized inclosure ; facing the
street is the yard, and behind the house is the gar-
den, kept with great care, in which maize, wheat,
potatoes, and apples, are cultivated. The princi-
pal streets are watered by limpid rivulets, while,
taking advantage of the slope of the ground,
every inhabitant has constructed a little fountain
to supply himself with water always pure.
The Indians of Purace are of a very mild
disposition ; their language, like that of Totoro,
is full of consonants, and consequently very
harsh ; they are fond of agriculture, to which
they ardently devote themselves ; the tithes
they pay their curate amount to 700 dollars a
year, a sum which enables some idea to be formed
of their wealth.
I passed the night at the house of one of the
inhabitants, who paid me much attention, and
early the next morning again set out to ascend
the mountain. In passing the paramos that lie at
the foot of the snowy regions, I found them less
dangerous than the Guanaeas, a circumstance
278 TRAVELS IN THE
that is owing to their situation with respect to
the wind, those which I crossed being to wind-
ward. After having quitted the places where
the cryptogamous plants, in their diminutive di-
mensions, have the appearance of large veget-
ables, and live crowded one upon another as if for
the sake of mutual warmth, I arrived with my
guides at the utmost limits of vegetation. Stones
and gravel form this region where the sun, des-
titute of power, permits the accumulation of the
ice; the moment we entered it, a tempest burst
from the summit, and poured down upon us like
a torrent.
The wind, loaded with particles of hail and
snow, quite benumbed us; we began to breathe
with difficulty ; and the obscurity was so great,
that we were obliged to call out from time to
time to prevent our losing each other.
The tempest blew in gusts, and when it
ceased, we distinctly heard the murmurs of the
volcano, which we had before mistaken for the
moanings of the birds of night. We now pro-
ceeded with much difficulty through the thick
coating of cinders that covered the mountain,
and over the crevices filled with snow ; but at
length arrived at the volcano, from which there
arose a thick smoke spreading a foetid smell
in every direction. There have doubtless been
frequent eruptions, if we may judge from the
volcanic productions spread around on all
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 279
sides. The aperture of tlie volcano is frequently
closed, for tlie sulphur which it throws up
adheres to the sides, and so chokes up the en-
trance, that the vapours escape with great dif-
ficulty, and earthquakes threatening Popayan
uitli destruction, are tiie immediate conse-
quence.
To avoid this danger, Indians are sent from
time to time to clear the crater, but independently
of this motive, these men pass their time conti-
nually upon the mountain in gathering sulphur
and collecting ice which they sell in the city at
the rate of two dollars per load. It is said, that,
upon the western side of the mountain, there is a
much larger crater, and that but few Indians
are acquainted with the frightful paths lead-
ing to it. The Rio Vinagra, which I crossed
the night before, flows from the ()i)enings of this
mountain, and altliongh its acid waters are very
dangerous to drink, they are highly valued for
their utility in dying.
I was unable to remain upon the moun-
tain so long as I desired, for my guides were
alarmed, and threatened to leave me if I stopped
there any longer, as the storm still raged with
the utmost fury. Indeed, I must confess that I
descended with pleasure, for I breathed with so
much difficulty, that I could ascend no higher
without great pain. It did not refjuire much
280 TRAVELS IN THE
time to retrace our steps to the village of Pu-
race ; so that^ after crossing many fertile fields,
where the corn of Europe is but badly cultivated,
we reached Popayan at eight o'clock in the even-
ing.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 281
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from Popayan — Mine of Allegrias — Quilichao — The Cauca— Sa-
mondi—Cali— Departure from Cali— Las Juntas.
Every thing indicated that the winter season was
on the eve of setting in : I was very apprehensive
that it might overtake me in the inundated plains
of the Cauca, and resolving not to prolong my
stay at Popayan, hired a guide to conduct me
to Cali. I should have preferred going to Quito,
which is peculiarly interesting to a Frenchman,
because it reminds him of the measurement of
the first three degrees of the meridian, made by
several of his learned countrymen.* But I was
obliged to renounce this pleasure, as the revolt
of Pasto and of Patia rendered it impossible
to take that road, without running the risk of
falling into the hands of the insurgents, the mer-
ciless enemies of all those who do not embrace
their cause.
I therefore took the road to Cali : as in the
valley of the Magdalena, I saw to the right and
left, wliile I traversed that of the Cauca, the Cor-
dilleras rising majestically, as if to cool and de-
fend the country watered by that river.
* Sue aole XI.
282 TRAVELS IN THE
The valley of the Cauca is composed of two
plateaus, very distinct by their elevation and their
temperature : it is much richer than that of the
Magdalena. The soil is deep, the pasturages rich
and fertile, as is proved by the large size of the
cattle, which, on the contrary, are very lean in
the valley of the Magdalena, excepting at the
foot of the Quindiu. The forests too are greener
and less scorched by the heat of the sun, which
dries up every thing during the summer in the
valley of the Magdalena, while along the banks
of this river, nothing is seen but wretched huts,
and men covered with rags, and half savage ; the
banks of the Cauca, afford every where indica-
tions of opulence. The farm houses are spacious
and well built, and nearly resemble the wealthy
habitations of our colonies. The negroes, who
cultivate the land, are all well clothed and ap-
pear to have a sufficiency of wholesome food. If
we still see some huts covered with thatch, and
some women in tattered garments, we everywhere
find utensils of silver, and those very women
who are so ill clothed are, on holidays, adorned
with gold necklaces. A general decorum of
manners prevails ; even the muleteers, proud of
being whites, are ashamed to go on foot, so that
it is difficult to distinguish the poor from the
rich.
This prosperity and opulence arc to be
ascribed to a fertile soil, better cultivated in
UKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 283
many places than on the Magdalena, and to abun-
dant gold mines, though they are unskilfully
worked. The earth tinged with red and yellow
every where indicates the presence of gold : you
constantly tread it under foot, and as a Spanish
engineer said, the kennels of the streets, in the
towns, bring it down after a storm.
We passed the night at los Corrales. The
proprietors of this cottage, are very hospitable and
very religious. At night on going to rest, and
before they rise in the morning, every body re-
peats the rosario, a very long prayer, which, in
many places, is recited with great fervor.
Accordingly we were awakened before day-
break, by the singing of the pious men, as had oc-
curred to me amongst the Mahometans in Africa.
Continuing our progress to the north, we crossed
the Quebrada de Tuina. An Indian village
of that name, is situated in the neighbouring
mountains. We afterwards passed the Pescador,
and the Oveja, two pretty deep rivers, over
which there are bridges ; we then passed the
mountain of Madomon, behind which, to the
west, is a gold mine very famous in the country.
When I reached the mine of AUegrias, I luid
reason for astonishment, on hearing my guide
enumerate all those towards which he pointed in
different directions of the compass : to the east,
Kina, Maion, Dominguillo, Campo, San-Viccute ;
to the west, Cerro Gordo, Santa-Maria, San-
284 TRAVELS IN THE
Miguel, Poitiigaleto, Honduras, and an infinite
number of others, the names of which, 1 have for-
gotten. The mine of AUegrias gave me an exact
idea of the others, and of the works of the mi-
ners. Some huts inhabited by negroes are scat-
tered in the midst of groves ofbananiers, which is
their favorite tree. The ground is on all sides open
and dug up to a small depth, it is intersected
by small canals,, so that the water flows on all
sides, not as in the delicious valley of Neyva,
to fertilize the fields but to carry away the earth
which is afterwards washed in wooden bowls, as
is practised in Africa. Nothing can be more arid
than the soil near these mines, the red colour of
the earth, which indicates its mineral wealth, is
no sign of fertility. The water being ill con-
ducted in the canals, spreads on all sides with-
out improving the soil.
The view enjoyed from the summit of these
auriferous hills of the plain of the Cauca, is ad-
mirable; a palm tree grows at this point, and
seems to be the limit of the burning soil of the
Cauca ; though it is not so curious as the palm
tree of Purace, it is perhaps more striking, for
one would say, that it was placed by nature as a
landmark, to indicate the change of the temper-
ature of Europe to that of Africa.
At the foot of the plateau of Popayan, is the
village of Qiiilichao, in a very advantageous po-
sition, being at the limits of the hot, temperate
REPUIJLIC OF COLOMBIA. 2H5
and cold districts, wliich renders it the entrepot
for the productions of all climates: it likewise
possesses many gold mines, and is a very flour-
ishing place. I went to pass the nigiit farther
on, at a veuta where there were many traders
on their way to Popayan with mules laden
with sngar.
The following day, we entered the marshy
plains which are periodically inundated by the
waters of the Cauca and other rivers over-
grown with rushes and reeds. Leaving Caloto,
famous for its gold mines to the right, we soon
after passed before the road to Cartago ; then
crossing a considerable extent of land belong-
ing to the inhabitants of Popayan, I found
the operations of agriculture every where left
to the slaves. The pride inspired by colour is
no less great in the valley of Cauca, than in the
colonies of the Antilles ; it is such that poor peo-
ple do not cultivate any lands but in the moun-
tains, where it is too cold to have negroes. At
some distance, on the right of the road, flows the
Rio Palo, celebrated in the country for the battle
fought there by Samanon, which he lost ; his army
chiefly consisting of Peruvians, was totally rou-
ted by that of the independents.
In the direction of Caloto, my guide pointed
out to me the road to Pitaion, a hamlet justly
celebrated for the Peruvian bark gatliered in
the neighbourhood, which is said to be of a much
286 TRAVELS IN THE
superior quality to the bark of Loxa. It is sold
at two piastres per arroba. Pitaion is two days
journey from the Balsa ; this habitation furnishes
much less sugar than formerly, because most of
the beasts of burden which it employed were
destroyed in the late wars. It now produces
only 8 or 9,000 pounds of sugar annually. The
vessels made use of, are of copper.
At noon we crossed the river Taula, which
frequently overflows its banks to a considerable
distance, where, having passed through a forest
full of climbing plants or bamboos, we found our-
selves again on the banks of the Cauca. This
river flows in a smooth current, and is not very
wide at this place ; we passed it in a cauoe, and
proceeded on the road to Call. At three o'olock,
we were at Jamondi situated in the middle
of a wood of goyava trees ; we afterwards
crossed the Jamondi, and it was already night
when we reached Cali. The town was illumina-
ted and resounded with musical instruments,
on account of the installation of the college, the
foundation of which had been ordered by the
government. I had much difficulty in obtaining
a lodging ; the alcaid presided at the fete, and
it was not till very late, that he could procure me
a shop, where I passed a very indifferent night.
The following day we had a great deal of
rain, but this did not hinder me from visiting the
town. Its situation on the declivity of the west-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMIUA. 287
ern Cordilleras, seemed to me very agreeable.
It is reported that, in former times, these moun-
tains were sometimes covered with snow ; but
at present none is to be seen. Cali is not only
well situated, both for the enjoyment of life and
for the climate, which is not excessively hot, but
also for trade, it being the medium of communi-
cation between Popayan and the Ocean. This
intercourse is pretty frequent and important at
present, on account of the tobacco of Llano-
Grande, a village between Caloto and Buga
which is sent to Peru and Panama where it is high-
ly esteemed.* The streets of Cali are straight,
and the houses built of brick or of earth white-
washed, a style of building, which gives an
appearance of cleanliness not common in the
eastern Cordilleras.
They have began to build two churches, the
architecture of which is remarkable for good
proportions, and an improved taste ; it really ex-
cites surprise to meet with temples built with
so much care, amidst the solitudes of New Gre-
nada. There are several convents, now deserted ;
all have been suppressed except that of the Fran-
ciscans, which contains sixteen monks.
Though the heat is rather intense at Cali,
and the cocoa trees which grow there in
* On the spot it costs two piastres per arroba, at Panama,
it is sold at six reals per pound.
288 TRAVELS IN THE
abundance indicate a tropical temperature, the
climate is healthy, and we see none of the de-
formities which afflict the valley of the Magda-
lena. I met with only one person that had a goi-
tre, this was a Frenchwoman from Bayonne,
who had been settled for many years at Cali,
and had entirely forgotten the customs and the
language of her native country. Yet the Spanish
people are so little used to see strangers, that
she is known in the town by the name of La
Franceza ; she is the widow of an officer in the
Spanish civil service.
The number of people of colour is considera-
ble at Cali ; they are peaceable, because they
hold a rank almost equal to those who call them-
selves whites ; they are not allowed however to
go armed. The inhabitants of Cali are rich. The
situation of the town doubtless constitutes to
the prosperity they enjoy, yet they envy that of
Carthago, which affords more real advantages.
In fact, the latter placed almost at the extre-
mity of the plains of the Cauca, at the point
where the two Cordilleras approach, and leave
only a narrow passage for the waters of tlie river,
is the entrepot for the goods for Santa-F^, which
arrive by the Quindiu, and those for the Antilles
or the Ocean which come by way of Novita,
situated near the Rio San Juan. But the situa-
tion of Carthago is far from offering the en-
hi: pun Lie ok Colombia. 281)
«^li;inliii^^ prospect of Cali. Can wc find there,
waters so pure, so beautiful a river, more noble
trees, more verdant fields, and a more striking-
prospect than tiiat which the plains of Cauca
afford at Cali ?
The necessary arrangements for eng-aging
a new guide, and hiring fresh mules, had de-
tained me six days at Cali. This delay was caused
by the slowness of the inhabitants of the coun-
try ; every thing is done by negroes and mulat-
toes who are naturally indolent in business. 1
left Cali with great joy, though I anticipated the
hardships and fatigues that awaited me in passing
the Cordilleras ; I was impatient to reach the port
wliere I was to embark.
Our first day's journey was short. Tlie roads
were so narrow and so slippery, that it was diffi-
cult to proceed ; night approached as we de-
scended into the valley, where a pretty habitation
has been built; it is called la Portera ; the source
of the Dagua is at a small distance from it.
The next day 1 proceeded towards the west
north-west; 1 travelled in company with some
negroes who had been taken prisoners in the
Patia; thev had been concerned in an insurrection
which had menaced Popayan with a dreadful con-
vulsion, and were being conducted to San-Buena-
ventura.
They were bound in a singular maimer, their
u
290 TRAVELS IN THE
hands were fastened on the stomach, with cords
which passed through a hollow piece of wood
placed below the chin ; these same cords were
then strongly fastened round the neck, so that,
by the slightest attempt to escape, the man
strangled himself. This kind of manacles is
said to have been taken from the Indians. Not-
withstanding the terrible constraint which these
negroes must have felt in walking, they kept
pace with us who were on horseback.
We halted together at a place called Papaia-
guero ; leaving this hamlet, we continued to tra-
verse the narrow valley watered by the Dagua,
which we had to cross seven times before we
reached a farm which bears the same name.
So far we had met with few hills that were
difficult to pass; the ground was rather uneven
than mountainous, and notwithstanding the small
number of inhabitants that we met with, the
road had appeared to me less fatiguing than any
of those I had before traversed in other moun-
tains. Quitting the farm of Dagua the ascent was
very laborious till we reached some houses called
las Ojas ; this was nothing, after having given our
mules some rest, we penetrated into very thick
woods, and continued climbing the Cordilleras
till two o'clock in the afternoon, when we arrived
at las Juntas.
The road of las Juntas, is one of the most abo-
RKPUKLIC OF COLOMBIA. 21)1
uiiiKiblc ill the republic of Colombia, the ground
sinking in under the feet of the mules, (for the
communications are frequent between the great
Ocean and the valley of the Cauca) has left on
the right and left considerable elevations so well
shaded by the foliage of the trees, that they can-
not be discerned, it is like penetrating into a
cavern ; there is only room enough for one mule,
and this is so narrow, that I was obliged every
moment to cross my legs in my saddle for fear of
breaking them against the stones. Before we
descended into these defiles, my guide cried out in
a loud voice several times, and when he was quite
certain that nobody was coming from the op-
posite side, we entered the pass, it was then our
fatigues and our dangers commenced; for the
whole place was full of water, and there were, on
all sides, what the Spaniards call cajones, holes in
which our mules sunk up to the breast. As they had
not room for more than half their body, they were
often obliged to stride over these cavities filled
with mud and branches of trees, which they did
with much agility ; thus we arrived without ac-
cident at las Juntas.
This village is situated on an isthmus, water-
ed on one side by the Dagua, and on the other by
the Pepita, which unite at this place. Las Jun-
tas is inhabited by merchants of Cali ; the ac-
tivity of these men in the western Cordillera, may
u2
292 TRAVELS IN THE
be compared to that of the inhabitants of So-
corro in the eastern. The inhabitants of las Jun-
tas are much distressed by want of provisions ;
they are of course not numerous ; the pecuniary
temptations held out by the salt and gold trade
induce them to remain in this dreadful place,
which they cannot quit without entering path-
less forests.
KKPUBLIC OF COLOMHIA. 2{)3
CHAPTER XVI.
Dangerous iiavij^atioii of the Uagua — San-Buenaveiifura— Dcsciiptioii of
the province of Clioco — Departure from San-Bucuaventura on board a
Peruvian schooner — Arrival at Panama — Observations on the great
Ocean.
The day after my arrival at las Juntas, I prepared
to embark on the Dagua, though its waters had
been considerably swelled by a storm, which
raged during the night : but I wished to arrive
speedily at Sati-Buenaventura, and was, besides,
unacquainted with the dangers the people spoke
of; I thought they wished to alarm me, in order
to dissuade me from my purpose, and detain me
the longer among them.
I was furnished with two negroes reputed
to be excellent sailors, and a long narrow canoe.
In order to preserve the equilibrium, my bag-
gage was divided into two parts, an equal
weight being placed at each end ; three feet in
the centre were appropriated to receive my body
bent almost in two ; my two negroes, one pro-
vided with an oar, the other with a pole, were
stationed at each end of the canoe ; when all
was ready and duly adjusted, the rope wliicli
moored us to the beach was loosened, and imme-
294 TRAVELS IN THF.
diately, we were hurried on by the stream with
the rapidity of an arrow, and carried before a
wall, over which the waters passed with a fright-
ful noise. Which way shall we pass ? was the
thought that struck me at the sight of so terri-
ble an obstacle : quicker than thought, the bark,
skilfully guided between a very narrow opening,
glided into calmer water : having escaped one
danger we encountered another,having to descend
from the high mountains of las Juntas, into the
plains, which are washed by the Ocean ; and
when I thought the Dagua had reached its level,
I perceived its agitated waters flowing several
feet below the place where I was.
The negro with the pole, like a skilful pilot
dexterously avoided the current of the river
where it was too rapid, entered boldly among
the windings of the rocks, and without fearing to
dash the canoe to pieces, conducted it throug!i
those narrow issues : sometimes, however, a
stone baffled his address, and stopped us on the
edge of a fall ; the water, foaming against this
new obstacle, threatened to swamp us ; this
was the critical moment : the two men then
leaped into the water, and thus lightening the
canoe, held it with all their strength to hinder it
from being ingulphed by the water among pre-
cipices where it would have perished.
Dangers of so novel a nature of course alarm
the traveller. Imprisoned in the middle of the
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 295
canoe, and motionless for fear of upsetting it,
he mechanically siglis with pleasure after having
passed over a slioal, or descended a i-cipid ; this
sometimes liappened to myself. The negroes,
mistaking the expression of joy, for a sigh of
complaint, asked with the most laughable sang-
froid, " Are you wet, sir ?" In truth I was wet
through. The rain fell in torrents, and the sai-
lor, while intent upon avoiding the rocks, which
every where obstruct the passage, was constantly
striking his feet against each other to throw out
the water which filled the canoe.
We were one hour in reaching the place
called the Salto, where there is so great a fall,
that the canoes are conveyed over land, and are
changed at the Bodega (or public warehouse),
where the government has placed an agent to
superintend the police of the river. My negroes,
after landing my effects, amidst torrents of rain,
were going to leave me, pretending they had not
agreed to accompany me any further. I was
cruelly embarrassed ; for if I had been left in
these forests, I should have perished with hun-
ger or disease, w hile waiting for another boat :
the white w ho had the care of the Bodega, took
pity on my situation, and, joining with me, per-
suaded the sailors to accomj)any me farther. I
employed other means to induce them. I had
given them four piastres, though they could only
demantl two for the fust passage, and promised
296 TRAVELS IN THE
them three more for the second ; this was paying
double what other travellers give. They gUidly
accepted my offer, and immediately launched
another canoe.
Without authority, or rather fearing to em-
ploy that with which they are invested, the agents
of the Colombian government are rarely of any ser-
vice in protecting the traveller, especially a fo-
reigner : it is only by means of exhortations or
money that he can make himself obeyed ; for,
being the only guides amidst the dangers of the
navigation or the roads, the sailors and muleteers
are respected by all the officers of government,
who, being generally engaged in trade, are afraid
of suffering for their rigour if they executed
the laws. When the roads become better, and
the navigation more perfectly known, these men
will be less extortionate, and will be made to
obey.
My negroes having resolved to accompany
me, I embarked in another canoe, and launched
again into dangers no less terrible than those
which we had just escaped. Encouraged, how-
ever, by the repeated proofs of the dexterity of
the negroes, the traveller begins to familiarize
himself with so frightful a navigation ; he is
at length able to distinguish the rocks which
are really dangerous, from those which are alarm-
ing only from the noise produced by the waves
of the river breaking over them ; but I doubt whe-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 297
tlier he can, at any time, feel himself so secnre as
to be able to sleep, as many persons have assnred
me they could do ; tor one is involuntary agitated
or uneasy ; and, were it only from the effect of
the rapidity with which the canoe proceeds, the
passenger has his eyes constantly open.
In a short time we arrived at the Saltico.
Near this dangerous place we found some huts ;
it cost me many hours to persuade my inconstant
sailors to take me any farther ; they hesitated a
long time, and at last yielded to my offer of
five piastres, if they would take me to San-Bue-
naventura ; and, after having again changed our
canoe, we set off. I went on foot, as I liad done
at the Salto, as far as the other side of the fall.
There I met my negroes and my canoe. An idea
may be formed of this navigation, when I say
that, on the beach where I walked, I observed
long furrows traced by the canoes, which are
kept as close the shore as possible.
After passing the Saltico, the Dagua, less
violent, does not rush forward in an impetuous
torrent ; it is now only an extremely rapid river,
yet still very dangerous, because it is far from
having attained its level : the fall being only
one foot instead of three which it had been higher
up.
The negro who held the pole, no longer di-
rected his comrade with the alarming silence
he before preserved, which, however, was neces-
298 TRAVELS IN THE
sary not to lose any time ; it was not mere-
ly by signs that he guided the steersman, his
voice was louder than the roaring of the waters ;
we were soon able to converse on the dangers we
had incurred, and the pleasure of quickly reach-
ing the port ; before we got there, we stopped at
a hamlet, at Santa-Cruz, where I passed the night.
On the following day, a pure sky, which is
very uncommon in the rainy climate of this
country, promised us a fine day, and the river
being broader, contributed to render this last
part of our voyage very agreeable. If the trunks
of the trees under water, still exposed us to some
risks, the bed of the Dagua, which was broad
and deep, enabled us to avoid them : at length,
after having again glided along with rapidity for
some time, our canoe could not proceed witliout
the aid of the oar.
We had now, therefore, need of vigorous
exertion to descend this river, the current of
which hurried us along the day before, in spite
of all our efforts. As it approaches its mouth it
has attained its level. Its deep and muddy
waters have now only low and marshy banks,
which they constantly inundate, and on which
grow trees of a large size. It is there that
the mangrove and other large trees, which are
fond of brackish water, spread afar their nu-
merous roots. The Dagua, which, higher up,
when it was confined in a narrow channel be-
rrpuiilk; of Colombia. 291)
tween the steep walls of tlie Coi-dilleras, flowed
precipitating- itself from fall to fall, has an almost
imperceptible current ; it is as calm as the sea
which receives it. Their waters unite unobserved,
for there is no bar to impede them, and a navi-
gator does not perceive that he has entered the
sea except by the taste of the waters. Contrary
to all observation, the crocodile does not shew
itself in the river, and delig-hts only in the ocean,
upon whose sandy banks this terrible animal is
sometimes met with.
We at length arrived without danger, but
not without difficulty at San-Buenaventura.
Considering the importance and beauty of
its situation, San-Buenaventura ought to be a
considerable town ; an active commerce should
animate its port ; a rich and industrious popula-
tion fill its streets; lastly, it should be frequented
by numerous vessels. Nothing of all this is to be
seen. A dozen huts inhabited by negroes and mu-
lattoes, a barrack with eleven soldiers, a battery
of three pieces of cannon, the residence of the
governor, built like the custom-house, of straw
and bamboo, on a small island called Kascakral,
covered with grass, brambles, mud, serpents and
toads ; such is San-Buenaventura !
Yet the commerce carried on is not with-
out importance, though chiefly of very common
articles, for instance salt,* onions and garlick.
* The salt of Paita, costs one piastre per quintul.
300 TRAVELS IN THE
These in general are the only cargoes brought
by the schooners from Paita. To these must be
added straw hats and hammocks from Xipixapa,
singular importations into a province so rich in
gold. The exportations consist of rum, sugar and
tobacco.^ This unwholesome place suffers a con-
tinual scarcity of provisions, it is difficult to
procure green bananas, or bread made of maize
and cheese. Fowls cost a piastre a piece, and
can hardly be obtained even at that price ; fish
is scarce, and said to be injurious to the health.
San-Buenaventura therefore is, at present, a
village of no importance, but may rapidly increase
in time, if, conformably to a plan which has been
recently suggested, it be removed to the north
north-east of its present site. The place where
it is proposed to make the new port, being rather
elevated, is consequently drier. As it is on the
continent, there will be an opportunity to extend
it, and it will be easy to employ more solid ma-
terials than bamboo. The houses built there
being better secured than with leather, will offer
greater security to the merchant ; lastly, there
will be no reason to apprehend that excessive
dampness so fatal to strangers who reside at
Kascakral. Thus this port may one day hold
a considerable rank among those on the great
* Vessels also come from Costa-Ricca with cargoes of salt
meat ; it costs eight piastres per quintal, and causes the dyssen-
tery.
REPUBLIC OF COIX)MBIA. .301
Ocean. Instead of the canoes which now con-
stitute its marine, we shall see large vessels ;
and its filthy huts will be superseded by rich ma-
gazines containing the produce of India and Eu-
rope.
Every inlet of the waters of the great Ocean is
said to be a good port, in fact this sea is so rarely
agitated by storms between the tropics along the
coast of America, that vessels are safe in all
places that are a little sheltered. To this ad-
vantage, common to all the creeks on this coast,
the bay of San-Buenaventura joins a considerable
extent and depth of water. The bottom is ex-
cellent, and ships of war can enter and remain
at anchor without danger. The entrance is to
the west south-west of Kascakral, whereas the
mouth of the Dagua is to the south-east of the
same point. This is not the only river which
empties itself into it.
The port of 8an-Buenaventura depends on
Choco, a very interesting but imperfectly known
province of New Grenada. This country begins
at the gulph of Mexico, borders the north-west
upon the territory of the barbarous hordes who
live three days' journey from Panama, comprising
apartof the eastern Cordilleras, is bounded to the
west by the great Ocean, and ternjinates on the
south at Escuande, situated to the south south-
e?ist of the Gorgona, two days journey from San-
Buenaventura.
50'i TRAVELS IN THE
As Holland has been able by artificial means
to make all its provinces communicate by water,
60 Choco is full of natural canals, which afford
convenient means of intercourse between thegulph
of Mexico and the great Ocean ; to render them
the more easy,it would be sufficient to cut through
the isthmus of San-Pablo ; then one might go
from San-Buenaventura to la Quebrada de San-
Joachim, which may be ascended in five hours ;
two hours are sufficient to cross by land, the
space between San-Joachin and the Guineo, which
empties itself into the Calima. You descend this
river till it falls into the San-Juan ; thence it
takes one day to the Monguido ; from the Mon-
guido to Panama, one day ; from Panama to Noa-
namon, one day ; from Noanamon to la Boca de
Dispurdu del Goasimon, one day ; from Dispur-
du to la Boca de Tamana, one day ; from la Bo-
ca to Novita, six hours ; from Novita to la Boca
San-Pablo, one day; the isthmus of San-Pablo is
traversed in four hours ; on the other side at San-
Pablito, you embark on the Rio-Quito, reach in
one day la Boca Certiga, and in another day, from
Citara to the Atrato : from Citara to the mouth
of the river, it is hundred and thirty-four leagues.
In fifteen days therefore one may go from one ex-
tremity of the province to the other, or from the
Escuande, to the mouth of the Atrato.*
Tliis large proportion of water, so advanta-
* Vide note Xll.
HKPUIJLIC OF COLOMIJIA. .30.'^
gcoiis to commercial intercourse, causes through-
out the country a too great humidity, whicli the
nature of the soil contributes to maintain. In
fact from the sea-coast to the Cordilleras, Choco
forms but one plain, which, in its greatest extent,
may be about thirty leagues, is very low and co-
vered with impenetrable forests ; the west north-
west wind which daily blows on these coasts, vio-
lently impels the clouds against the mountains,
where they accumulate, break, and daily pour
down torrents of rain which supply the infinite
numbers of rivers with which the country is in-
tersected in all directions. It would therefore
be very difficult, without considerable expense to
have good roads ; in this respect, the nature of
the country has been favorable to the Spanish po-
licy which dreaded, in the highest degree, all con-
nexion between the countries of tlie interior, and
the great Ocean ; even now it is attended with
the greatest difficulty.
The continual humidity which prevails in
Choco, renders the climate, notwithstanding its
latitude, very supportable, and at the same time
very unhealthy ; the heat is tempered in this
marshy country, but on the other hand, as
nothing can become dry there, the strongest
constitution is undermined ; all Europeans fall
ill. The sun is not often seen, being almost con-
stantly obscured by clouds ; sometimes however,
when it approaches the horizon, it shines with
304 TRAVEI.S IN THE
extraordinary splendor, and seems by the purple
and golden tints with which it adorns the sky,
destined to console this country so aboundant
in treasures, and so seldom enlivened by a fine
day.
The soil of Choco has no variety ; no rocks
are seen except in the beds of rivers ; the lands
near the mountains are rich ; we remark how-
ever but little cultivation ; that which has been
here and there attempted, has produced such
abundant crops as should be an inducement
to extend it. The soil is in general of a very
bright red colour, it consists of undulating
vallies which contain very fine pastures ; the
mountains, which surround them, are clothed with
forests, into which man has never yet penetra-
ted. There is a covering of gravel, sand, stones,
and clay parallel to the horizon and confined
within narrow limits. It begins at a 100 varas*
above the level of the sea, and terminates at 800.
It is there that gold is found, always mixed with
platina ; beyond this point no metal is disco-
vered. Thus not only the surface of Choco pos-
sesses the richest forests, but the most precious
and abundant treasures are extracted from its
bosom ; gold is found wherever it is dug for, if
care be taken not to go beyond the limits here
pointed out.
In the midst of all these riches, man is poor
* About 259 French feet.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 305
and miserable, it is only on the eminences which
are met with from time to time on the banks of
the rivers that he has built his dwelling-, raising;
it upon pillars : the beams and the floors wliich
compose it, and the roof which covers it are all of
bamboos.
It is impossible to grow culinary vegetables
in the natural soil, because the humidity would
destroy them ; they therefore erect a flooring of
bamboo several feet above the ground, which they
cover with a thick layer of earth ; tlianks to this
precaution, the vegetables they sow thrive very
well. The same means are not necessary for
the maize, sugar-cane and bananas ; these plants
thrive remarkably well in these marshy countries;
they might be grown in abundance if the con-
stant dampness of the soil did not hinder the in-
habitants from burning the forests which cover
it, and from clearing a large extent of ground for
cultivation. For the same reason, pastures are
rare ; we therefore see but few cattle : while on tlie
bank of the eastern Cordilleras, no value is at-
tached to this kind of property, the inhabitants
of Choco attempt in vain to increase the num-
ber of their domestic animals.
Thus the inliabitants of Choco have not,
like those of the Magdalena, fine days to console
them in their poverty ; the rain daily inundates
their retreats, and cover with mud the spot they
occupy; their canoe is perhaps the most healtliy, if
X
306 TRAVELS IN THE
it be not the driest place where they can live, and
they accordingly pass all their time in it. Their
huts are uninhabitable sties, and when they ascend
by means of a beam of wood rudely cut into steps,
to the chamber where they sleep, the slight roof
is no defence against the rain which every where
penetrates. The inhabitants of Choco, are there-
fore very miserable, and it is very difficult for
the population to increase in this country. It
does not now amount to more than twenty thou-
sand souls, and yet the province is nearly a hun-
dred leagues in extent. The number of villages,
if we may call by that name two or three huts,
collected in one spot, is very limited. They are
inhabited for the most part by negroes, people
of colour and some Indians. The latter, though
very mild, are still little better than savages.
They are entirely naked ; the women wear only
an apron. They paint themselves of divers co-
lours ; this they say is a dress which clothes
them. It is remarked, that the men prefer red,
and the women black. They make in their ears
large holes, in which they put bones, reeds or
feathers. They blacken their teeth. These peo-
ple are not brave ; they fly into the woods if a
stranger enters their villages. The women weep
and hide their faces with their hands, Avhen spo-
ken to. The Indians have a violent antipathy to
the negroes, and yet out of fear, give them, as
they do the whites, the title of Amo (master.)
RBPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. :}07
The men in g-encnil are better made than the wo-
men ; tlieir features are more regular, and cliange
less witli time. Tiie industry of these Indians
is confined to the weaving of baskets or the
manufacture of straw liats. Like all men of
their race they do not love the whites, fear them
g-reatly and never seek to form alliances with
them.
The language of the Indians of Choco is
remarkable for the harshness and roughness of
the pronunciation. By questioning these people
we can learn what tilings they possessed before
the arrival of the Spaniards ; for they have in
general adopted the Castilian names for hor-
ses, cows, wheat, &c., while maize, sugar-cane
and potatoes, have proper names in the language
of these Indians.*
The blacks predominate in Choco. Almost
all the negroes are slaves and work in the mines.
The number of mulattoes is inconsiderable ; they
here constitute the patrician class and are almost
all proprietors of mines.
Independent of gold and platina-j- this coun-
try might export a considerable quantity of va-
luable wood, resins, gums, tortoiseshell and pearls
from the Gorgona. The dearness of provisions,
the difficulty of collecting the productions, the
bad condition of the towns and the ports, the
* Vide Note XIV.
f Platina is sold at three or four piastres per pound.
x2
308 TRAVELS IN THE
insalubrity of the air, which even obliges the
government to increase the salaries of its officers
one third, will long- deter merchants from resort-
ing to it. A good road from the sea to the valley
of the Caiica is particularly necessary ; all those
which have been made are very bad. The ports
whicli are at present the most frequented, are upon
the great Ocean, namely Escuande, el Varo, San-
Buenaventura, Chirambira, and Cupica ; on the
gulph of Mexico, all the intercourse is carried on
by the Atrato, Vessels of any considerable bur-
den remain at the mouth of this river, where
they generally are able to negociate with the
captain who guards the entrance. They agree
witli him for the purchase of tortoiseshell ; the
English commonly prefer to treat with the Cuna-
cunas whose ignorance they easily deceive. In ge-
neral, tlierefore, only the Champans of Carthagena
are seen at Citara, a port of the Atrato and
chief town of the northern part of the province.
There are not a thousand inhabitants at Citara.
I found three Frenchmen at Kascakral.
It will be easy to conceive the surprise and
joy we mutually experienced on meeting at so
great a distance from our native country. My
companions had been by no means successful
in business. After having engaged a passage on
board a ship of Guayaquil, they took leave of
me, and I was left alone The pleasure whicli
I felt at meeting with these Frenchmen, in a
RKPUIJLIC OF COLOMBIA. 301)
pljic'o where I was so far froiii expcctin;,^ it,
greatly increased iny desire of seeing my
country again. At first fortune did not fa-
vonr my impatience. There was in the port
only one vessel, a schooner from Paita whicli was
bound for Panama : though I had heard a great
deal of the inconveniences to which passengers
are snbject, I did not hesitate to take a ))assage
in it, for which I agreed to pay forty-five piastres.
The cargo of this vessel consisted of onions
and salt. The delay in the sale of these articles
impeded our departure. The vexation which
this delay gave me, tlie privations I endured,
and the kind of famine I had suffered ever
since I left Cali, brought on an inflammatoiy
fever ; I thought for some moments that I should
never leave Kascakral, but my constitution resist-
ed the disease- I soon recovered, and was able, on
the 4th of November, to go on board. All our
provisions consisted of some yards of dried
meat.
I was lodged in the store room ; this was the
cabin. The rain setting in during the night, the
crew took shelter in it, and then closed all the
openings. I was stiffled ; the heat- the offensive
exhalations from thegarlick, the onions, the bacon
and the dirty clothes of the sailors prevented nic
from sleeping ; however, thinking to set sail the
same night 1 did not complain.
310
TRAVELS IN THE
My expectation was deceived, the captain
did not return on board till day-break, when
they prepared to set sail. I came out of the
filthy hole in which I had passed so wretched a
night. To my great surprise I found on deck
seven sailors, eight passengers, and the three
negroes of Paita with whom I had travelled to
las Juntas. The captain took the speaking trum-
pet and gave the word of command, with the
coolness and importance which skill and ex-
perience inspire. Every body worked, but with
so little dexterity that it took much time before
we could get out to sea, though among the sai-
lors there were two Genoese. It could not fail to
excite surprise to see two men of the country of
Colombus in the pay of an Indian captain. This
man, notwithstanding the arrogance with which
he gave himself out for a Spaniard, had no fea-
ture which could, in this respect, impose upon a
European ; he was fat, of very low stature, had
a square countenance and tanned complexion ;
his small eyes placed obliquely, his long hair brai-
ded on the top of the head after the manner of
the Chinese, fully j ustified the title of Chinos,
Chinese, which is given to the inhabitants of
Paita*. May we not suppose that, after that
* Some years ago San Martin made the soldiers of Paita
have their hair cut ; this measure met^with strong opposition.
UKl'UliLIC OF COLOMItlA. .'ill
town li;i(l I)c'L'n ])mMit ])y Anson, the Spjin'uirds
rejK'opicd it with Ciiinese from Manilla?
At last we set sail, and doubled the sand
bank to the left of the bay, and the two insulated
rocks which terminate it on the right. Aly Pe-
ruvians had given me a very poor proof of their
ability, and I much feared lest their imprudence
should cost me dear; but I soon gave up my bad
opinion of them when I saw them boldly launch
into the open sea, and in spite of their cotton
sails, the cordage which was quite chafed, and the
heavy and unmanageable sails of the schooner,
steer off from the coast, and, without any
other guide then the compass and some points
the position of which is perfectly known to them,
navigate without sextant, and without a log,
pass near the pearl island, and arrive at Panama
without any accident.
I must confess however, that I was not always
without uneasiness, respecting their experience,
though, on the other hand, I was tranquillized by
the calmness of the sea. The sailors of the great
Ocean are so timid that, on the least agitation of
the waves, mine began to sing hymns ; this
seemed to presage great dangers ; every morning
and evening they assembled to invoke the pro-
tection of the Saints, whose existence the captain
afterwards had the boldness and impiety to deny
when the winds grew calm, and we approached
near to Panama.
312 TRAVELS IN THE
We cast anchor in the roads of this town on
the 12th of November, after a voyage of eight
days. Though it was night, and I was exhausted
by several days fasting and fever, I went on shore.
I found a room, a bad supper and a hammock ;
but I enjoyed during a few moments reflection,
which preceded my sleep, the inexpressible plea-
sure of being on land, far from the pestilential
exhalations of the vessel of Pai'ta, from the
brutal savages on board it, and from all the
hardships that are experienced at sea, and which
I had felt to their fullest extent in my passage
from San-Buenaventura to Panama.
The great Ocean, between the tropics, enjoys
like the Cordilleras, a temperature which is
almost constantly the same. The air is calm, and
but seldom agitated by the dreadful storms which
ravage the gulph of Mexico*. As in the Cordillera,
the atmosphere is cooled by two general winds
or monsoons. Thus the wishes of the navigators
on this Ocean, like those of the cultivator in the
Andes, are seldom disappointed ; his only cause of
complaint is that he is sometimes detained in his
course by the want of wind. Between the tro-
pic of Cancer and the line, the winds blow from
November to April from the north and are rainy;
during the other six, when they come from the
* The establishment of steam boats would be very easy
and advantageous on the great Ocean, in a few years the Eng-
lish will have them between Lima and Panama.
UKPLDLIC OF COLOMBIA. 'Mil
south, they are dry. This order is sometimes in-
terrupted by west winds or by easterly breezes,
wiiich are at times pretty violent before the isth-
mus of Panama. Tliese exceptions do not how-
ever destroy the influence which the Cordillera
has upon the great Ocean, and which is said to
be perceptible two hundred leagues from the
continent. Two main currents have been observ-
ed ; as well as the tides they are very strong.
The sky in these seas has neither the azure of
that of the Canaries, nor the ashy whiteness of
that on the coasts of the Zahara ; it rather re-
sembles that of our western maritime provinces.
In proportion as the Cordilleras approach the
sea the sky is less sombre ; near Panama it lias
only some scattered clouds ; from Paita to Lima it
is dry, fogs take the place of the rains which
fall periodically between Guayaquil and la Vera-
gua. The great Ocean is almost solitary between
Lima and Mexico; but few ships are met with.
The commerce is confined to six principal ports :
Valparaiso, (Chili), Callao, (Peru), Guayaquil,
and Panama, (Colombia), San-Blas, and Acapulco,
(Mexico.) A small number only of English,
French, Genoese, and north Americans go higher
than Guayaquil. The English of Jamaica, who
have the monopoly of the trade of the isthmus of
Panama, are said to send merchandize to the va-
lue of two millions of piastres. They employ a
ship of war to protect the small vessels used in
314 TRAVELS IN THE
this trade : they take great care to send them at
different times, that there may not be any glut at
Panama, and consequently a decline in the prices.
The returns from Mexico, by this channel, consist
of silver ; those from Guayaquil of gold and
cocoa.
The ships of Pa'ita alone carry on the coast-
m^ trade. This port of Peru, which has been
burnt at two distant periods by two Englishmen,
Anson in 1741, and Cochrane in 1810, contains a
population of very active Indian lialf whites. They
are the Bretons of the great Ocean, and are
met with every where. 1 he cargoes they take,
and which are sufficient to maintain the inter-
course between Panama, Guayaquil and Peru,
consist of wine of Lambaike*, salt, onions, gar-
lick and scullions. The price of these articles
like that of the macaw of Cuba at Carthagena,
occupies much more attention than that of gold
and pearls. Thus Holland founded its wealth on
the herring fishery ; but Paita is very far from
that point.
Guayaquil is, at present, the most important
port in the great Ocean ; numerous vessels are
attracted there by the quantity of goods collected
which consist of cocoa, coffee, wood of all kinds
and cocoa-nuts. This latter article, though of little
value, is in great request : in general tlie fortune
* A town of Peru.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 315
of nations has been founded on the sale of the
commonest articles. Ships seldom put into Bue-
naventura or Panama ; there notliing is to be iiad,
and here there is only a transit trade wliich is
entirely in the hands of the English. In con-
sequence, if they do not return from Guayaquil
to Europe, they prefer employing two months to
go as high as San-Blas to sell mercury and other
goods receiving ingots in return. Though the
ships fitted out in the great Ocean are not nu-
merous, yet the trade in iron, tar and cordage
is not inconsiderable ; iron is sold at 10 piastres,
cordage 16, and tar from 8 to 10 piastres per
quintal.
Provisions are scarce and dear in all the
ports : no dependence can now be placed on the
kind hospitality of the inhabitants of the Cor-
dilleras, every thing is sold and at a high price;
services, attention, every thing nmst be paid for :
in consequence of the increased connexion of
these countries with Europe, who knows how high
they will rise ? The people who inhabit the coast
of the great Ocean from Lima as far as Panama,
have an Asiatic physiognomy and habits ; they
are greedy and self-interested, and have entirely
retained the moral and physical character of their
antient fellow citizens of the Philippines.
316 TRAVELS IN THIi
CHAPTER XVII.
Description of tlic town of Panama — The women of Colombia.
Guayaquil is built of wood, Buenaventuru of
straw ; Panama lias retained something of both
these kinds of architecture ; at first sight, how-
ever, this town pleases the European ; he sees
houses of three stories, inhabited by several fa-
milies ; consequently, as in his own country, noise
and bustle.
To these features of resemblance, which first
strike him, must be added others that are less
agreeable, especially excessive uncleanliness, in-
creased by that carelessness, whicli is natural in
a warm country, and among a people of Spanish
origin. At Carthagena there is not a single chair,
here the houses are crowded with furniture ;
fowls and pigeons enter every where, while, in
the court yard, the pigs live on all the filth which
is thrown out of the windows ; this being only
means the inhabitants have yet found of getting
rid of it.
The streets are narrow, and much darker
than those of Carthagena, and even much dir-
tier ; at night they are suflliciently lighted by
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 317
the vSliops, where the tradespeople cndccavour to
introduce a degree of order and neatness, which
sliews their frequentintercoiirse with the English.
The magazines of provisions, in particular, are
better arranged than those of the towns of the
interior ; they contain many articles of the United
States, and a great quantity of wines and liquors
of all kinds. There is a coffee house at Panama,
where nothing but coffee is sold : it is much drunk
in the towns of the great Ocean, and begins to
supercede chocolate.
Panama is divided into the upper and lower
town ; this latter part is called el Varal, it is the
most populous ; nothing but men of colour are
met with here, though tliey are admitted into so-
ciety, and though all kind of respect is affected
towards them, yet, at a ball which took place
a little before my arrival, the whitest ladies re-
fused to dance with the black officers of the gar-
rison ; it required all the authority of their hus-
bands to oblige them.
Panama has, in fact, no port ; we saw
neither quay, bason, nor dock. Near the land-
ing place, is a flight of steps leading to a dark
passage where the market is kept. The roads are
very bad on account of the north winds, wiiich
are sometimes very violent.
Panama is built on a peninsula, so that,
being surrounded by water on almost eveiy side,
the air is unwholesome, and epidemic disorder?
318 TRAVELS IN THE
frequent : the heat is very severe, and the rains
are of long continuance. The inhabitants of Pa-
nama have often had to repulse the attacks of the
Indians ; at present they enjoy profound peace.
The Indians have retired into their mountains,
situated at four days' journey from the capital,
and never leave them except for the purposes of
barter. They are believed to be cannibals, and
for this reason, people are afraid to approach
cape Garachine, whither they sometimes resort.
On several occasions, however, government cou-
riers have been sent by the way of Darien ; though
they have never been attacked, the roads are so
bad, that it is thought better to follow the old
way opened by the Spaniards, by the great Ocean,
between Panama and the capital. But, instead
of going to Cupica, they now go to San-Buena-
ventura. This service is very indifferently per-
formed.
The men and women dress in the English
fashion. The latter go bareheaded, and let their
hair fall in tresses on their shoulders. In gene-
ral there is more elegance in the costume at Car-
thagena, and more originality at Santa-Ffe. The
women of the lower classes have retained the fur-
belows and the laces, which have long since disap-
peared among us. They often use their ruffles
instead of pocket handkerchiefs, and have the
strange custom of concealing their money and
their segars in their hair.
RE PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 31*^
I could not form an opinion of tlic women of
Colombia, till I had visited the two regions of
wliich the country is composed ; the Cordillera
and the plains. I therefore determined not to
say anything on this delicate subject till I arrived
at Panama ; in which I was right, for this city
has furnished me with a multitude of traits,
which were wanting to complete the portrait I
had sketched of the Colombian women. It has
been continually reported that the Spaniards are
extremely jealous of their wives ; they have been
always represented Avith a dagger in their hands :
this certainly is not the case in America. In the
very different climates of the Andes and the Lla-
nos, the women equally exercise an irresistible
influence over their indolent and enervated hus-
bands. Far from being confined within iron
gratings, diversions, balls, visits, everything is
permitted them, without their having to fear the
controul of their husbands, who rarely accom-
pany them. Slaves in the hot countries, and
female servants in the cold countries, are alone
admitted to the secret of their promenades, in
which they attend them.
It is a pretty general opinion that, in pro-
portion as the country is warmer, the hair of the
women is blacker, and that in the cold countries
it is generally fair. This observation, though
correct in Europe, does not apply here ; it is quite
the contrary. At Carthagena, we see many wo-
320 TRAVELS IN THE
men with fair, and even red hair ; and at Santa-
Fe, where the temperature is so cold^ we find
none but brown. It is with surprise that we see
on the coast of Colombia, only 10 degrees from
the line, women, whose thick hair is of a length
that might be envied in Europe. Those who pos-
sess it are of course very careful to make it one
of their finest ornaments. At Panama, they form
it into two tresses, which hang down on their
shoulders ; at Carthagena, they arrange it in
thick tufts on the front of the head, where it is
generally fastened by a tortoise shell comb, and
flowers of different colours are artfully mixed
with it. In some parts of the Cordillera, the la-
dies fasten in their hair shining insects called
Cucuyos, the lustre of which is superior to that
of the emerald.
In the women of warm climates, there is
nothing more beautiful than the head ; the fea-
tures have a delicacy, the eyes a lustre which is
found only in Spanish women. They have also
pretty hands ; their feet are extremely small, but
this, perhaps, injures the equilibrium of the body,
thecontinual see-saw of which is far from graceful.
Nevertheless, the ladies of the tierras calientes
have much more dignity in their carriage than
those of the cold countries ; the former have the
manners of ladies of quality ; the others have
too often the awkward air of bourgeoises.
If the hair of the latter is not so beautiful
UEPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. l\2\
as that of the women on the coast, if tlieir
eye is without expression, if their iiands and
feet are not so delicate as tliose of their ri-
vals, they have, on the other hand, forms which
retain their grace to an advanced period of life,
and are free from that leanness, with which the
others may be reproached ; the women of tlie
Andes would be even mucli more beautiful, if
they had not in general bad teeth ; the beauty of
their complexion cannot fail to please a Euro-
pean in particular, though it is far from equal-
ling that of the women of Europe. In general,
the Flemings may give an idea of the children of
the Spaniards in the Cordillera ; the two races,
derived from a common origin, but chilled by an
equally cold climate, have a striking resemblance
even in their accent: it is nearly the same. Like
the Flemish women, those of the tierras frias,
have rather too much embonpoint; they have
neither the r.nglish melancholy nor the German
languor ; a pleasing smile, which is their true
character, is always on their lips ; their counte-
nance is impressed with an air of kindness and
mildness, which their humane and charitable
character does not contradict. The Arab nasal
pronunciation, which the women on the coast
have, in a very great degree, often renders
their language disagreeable ; the women of the
Cordillera, on the contrary, speak in a slow
Y
322 TRAVELS IN THK
and measured manner, like tlie Creoles of our
Antilles.
The costume of the women of the Cordille-
ra is very original ; when they go abroad, they
wear a black silk petticoat, which is sufficiently
close to shew the form ; a piece of blue cloth
thrown over the head, and falling in a triangular
shape down to the waist, is contrived to hide the
arms, which are always bare ; no part of the face
is to be seen except the nose and eyes. Above
this mantilla, they put on a hat with a shallow
crown, and broad brim. The women of the
coast gradually renounce the elegant costume
of the AndalusiaiTLS, to adopt that of the English
ladies.
The education of the women of Spanish Ame-
rica is much less advanced than that of the wo-
men of North America ; a very few are able to
sing or play on some instrument ; yet they are
naturally better musicians than the others ; they
are intelligent, quick of apprehension, and learn
with facility ; on the other hand, they are defi-
cient in judgment and taste.
The Colombian women have no great love
for each other ; party spirit is not the only cause
of this antipathy. Envy, the rivalry of rank,
fortune, origin, cast, diffuse in society a spirit
of hatred, which is not at first observed amidst
the caresses which they lavish on each other, and
KEPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA, 323
which shews the great art of the people of the
Iiot countries in dissimulation. But when two
female friends, if there be any such, open their
hearts to each other, then their neighbours are
sacrificed without mercy ; they exhaust all the
sarcasms of slander. This is a kind of conversation
natural enough to women who seldom go out,
and pass their days in turning over a book, which
ennui makes them throw aside twenty times, or
in braiding their hair, or in reclining on a bed and
smoking a segar.
Slander is not the only aliment of tlie con-
versation of the Colombian ladies ; love also has
a great share in it : they speak of it with the
freedom that men in France use in their conver-
sations. They talk of the lover of la Seraphina,
la Concepcion, la Incarnacion, with an openness
which would make a well educated European
lady blush. Confided from their tenderest in-
fancy to the care of corrupt servants, many
young ladies derive their first ideas from their
conversation, and they are acquainted with the
language of vice, while they are ignorant of that
of virtue which is spoken to them at the age
of twelve years, by a confessor, who is sometimes
ignorant, and often dangerous. Leaving the
convents, where they are taught nothing but
reading and writing, they enter the world at
the age of fifteen, without any means of resist-
Â¥ 2
824 TRAVELS IN THi:
ing the dangers to which they are exposed, but
the first ideas of their childhood. Instead of
turning their thoughts to useful employments,
or agreeable arts, the only diversion they know
is that of smoking.
Such they are, when their parents, weary
of a long, and often useless superintendence,
think of marrying them. Their choice is soon
made, for they have only to attend to some pe-
cuniary considerations. 'J'he marriage is con-
cluded ; ardent desires are soon satisfied, the
man and wife soon perceive that they have never
loved each other ; and this observation is soon
succeeded by hatred. In general the appear-
ances of concord and friendship are preserved
till the birth of the second child. They then
come to an amicable rupture, and the husband
separates from his wife. Such is the termination
of marriages in the eastern Cordillera.
It is different on the coast and in the western
Cordillera ; the conduct of the women is more
strict ; wherever there are helots, the women
are more reserved, because it is necessary for
them to be on their guard before their slaves,
in order to insure their respect and obedience.
On the other hand, the morals of the men are
perhaps less pure than elsewhere. It is affirmed
that the women of the hot countries are much
more interested than those of the cold ones :
RKI'IIBI.IC OF COLOMBIA. 325
shall \vc then suj)p()se that, virtue as it is more
or less austere, is l)ut interest better or worse
understood ? All the woiuen are very devout with-
out being- fanatiral ; they are fond of the cere-
monies of reli«:ion because thev are eairer for
something to occupy their attention.
The women of the Cordillera and the plain,
therefore, have opposite kinds of beauty; how-
ever, no great dilFerence is observal)le in their
habits and character : the antipathy between
them is excessive ; those of the coast g-ive to the
women of the Andes the name of lanuias, or
woolly, because they are dressed in cloth ; the
latter call the others by the epithet of calcnta-
nas, hot. National hatred has in general no
other origin than the rivalship and the quarrels
of the women ; and here the nature of the
country contributes to foment and to perpetuate
them.
1 am now on the point of quitting Colom-
bia, after having travelled in it a whole year.
I have been enabled, during this long stay, to col-
lect a multiplicity of details, many of which
were little known ; I have introduced them in
the preceding narrative, but I have not com-
pleted my task. I have spoken only in a cur-
sory manner of the manufactures, the commerce,
and the agriculture of the country ; and I nmst
not leave it without giving a more particular
326 TRAVELS IN THE
account of these several branches of public pros-
perity. I intend to make a few observations
on the physical appearance of Colombia, and the
public spirit of the inhabitants. They will serve
to explain a thousand particulars which seem to
contradict the ideas generally entertained of the
equinoctial countries of America and the people
who inhabit them.
REPUBLIC OK COLOMBIA. ,'V27
CHAPTER XVTIl.
Description of (he Kepublie of Colombia — IMomitaiiis — Cliiiialr — Air —
Seasons— Teiiipcraturc — Wiiul — Kaiii — Tropical IndiioiKt ll,ir\est —
ForestP — Rivers — Ravines — Mines — Lakes — Seas — Wild Animals —
Domestic Animals — Plains of the Oronooko — (Jeneral appearance of the
Country.
The republic of Colombia comprises two coun-
tries entirely different, which the Spanish govern-
ment had also separated in the political division
it established. 1. New Grenada; this viccroyalty
was formed of the provinces of the Cordilleras
from Guayaquil to IMerida, of that of Casanare
and San-Juan dc los Llanos. 2. Caracas ; this
capital ncy contained Cuniana, Barcelona, Cara-
cas, Varinas, and Guyana, consequently the
greater part of the plains.
The Cordillera of the Andes, at 2" of the
south of the line, divides into three branches,
only one of which, the most westerly, extends
through the isthmus of Panama into North
America ; the two others terminate at the
gulph of Mexico. All these are divided into
tierras calientes (warm lands), which are ge-
nerally the vallies of the rivers and the mari-
time provinces ; tierras templeadas (temperate
lands) ; tierras frias (cold lands) ; paramos (bar-
228
TRAVELS IN THE
ren lands ; lastly, nevados (lands covered with
snow.) The same mountain sometimes contains
them all. It is strange enough, and is the most
curious phenomenon in the Indies, that we can
pass, in the same day, from the burning climate
of the coast of central Africa to that of the frozen
regions of Lapland ; a transition which is with-
out danger, because it is not sudden, and a man
may change his climate according to circum-
stances and the strength of his constitution.
Tims, invalids of Santa-Fe, v/ho cannot bear the
cold, which is often severe, go in search of
warmth, as people visit France to take the
waters, yet with the singular advantage of find-
ing a milder temperature, before the end of the
day on which they set out. For instance, if they
go to Cakesa, after passing at sun-rise fine fields
of barley and green meadows, and crossing rapid-
ly, at eleven o'clock, the heaths of the damp and
frozen mountains which overlook them, they de-
scend their sides at three o'clock under the shade
of quinquina-trees, and walk before nigiit among
banians, sugar-canes, the sugar-apple fannona
squamosa J and coffee-trees ; a valuable privilege
attached to this fortunate country, and which
is repeated in a thousand places.
The appearance of these mountains is no less
varied than their temperature. At their feet ex-
tend on one side immense pastures, on the other
impenetrable forests ; the vallies, if we except
RKPUJJLIC OF COLOMBIA. 329
those through which tlie rivers (low, are genenilly
at ti considerable elevation.
The climate of the tierras calientes, in the
Cordilleras, is burning, without being unwhole-
some ; the European suffers much from tlie heat,
but it seldom proves fatal to him. The tempe-
rature is too hot to be agreeable to liim ; but,
being cooled from time to time, and purified by
the salutary breezes from the Andes, it is not
deadly. As soon as you iiave ascended to the
elevation of 400 toises, you breathe a cooler air,
which, however, does not yet seem temperate ;
at 600 toises, the European approaches an atmos-
phere which suits him ; at 900, is on its borders :
from 1,000 to 1,400, he is in it; these are the
tierras frias. Here he finds iiis own climate,
though the cold is disagreeable to him for some
time. Higher up, that of the paramos appears
rigorous ; and, in the nevados, he sometimes pe-
rishes, like the natives of the country, benumbed
by the cliilling winds which blow there.
Tiie air respired is tlierefore very different,
according to the elevation at whicli we are
placed ; rendered heavy by the vapours with
which it is loaded, it is disagreeable to the smell
at the foot of Cordillera, and reminds those who
have visited other parts of the world between tlie
tropics, of tliat w^hich prevails in tlie low regions,
and the pestilential exhalations brought by it.
Above these burning spots, the air, embalmed by
330 TRAVELS IN THE
the sweet perfume of the ttovvers and aromatic
plants, charms every sense, and we fancy our-
selves in Europe.
There are in the Cordilleras four seasons
diflferent from ours: they rather resemble those
of the tropics, that is to say, there are two dry
and two rainy seasons. The first commence at
the solstices, and the other at the equinoxes ;
their setting in, sometimes varies a fortnight.
As to the temperature, it does not experience
any change, and it is in this that the seasons of
America are so different from ours. IVo degrees
produce a sensible difference between the cold of
winter and that of the dry season ; yet it must
be observed, that it is greater in proportion as
you descend tOAvards the foot of the mountain ;
it is then sometimes one-third ; so that, after
rain, the thermometer sometimes falls from 24"
to 16".
The snow-clad mountains of Cucuy serve to
cool the lower and interior tracts which surround
them, in the same manner as the mountains
which are nearer the equator temper the heat,
which would have burnt up the provinces situ-
ated along the great Ocean. At intervals, we
saw in the western Cordillera some of those sum-
mits covered with snow, such as the Coconuos
and the Quindiu ; lower down there are none of
them, l)ecausc to the east the mountains of 8anta-
Martha rise to the limit of perpetual snow ; and
REPUBLIC OF COLOMHIA. 331
further on the Cordilleras, confined between two
seas, exposed on all sides to the winds and tern-
pests.
Thongh the winds are variable in the Cordil-
leras, two may be distingnished as general, name-
ly, tlie north and the soutli ; these follow the di-
rection of the Cordillera : the sonth wind brings
fine weather, and the north rain and storms.
Nevertheless, all the places sitnated beyond the
mountain to the east, are excepted from this
rule ; they are subject to the winds of the plains,
as the provinces washed by the great Ocean are
to the sea winds, and those to the south of the
line to the winds from the north-west.
It seldom rains in the Cordilleras in the dry
season, and there is rarely a day without rain dur-
ing the wet one ; so that, as in all the equinoctial
regions, we may reckon six months rain and six
months dry weather, though they are differently
distributed ; in fact, it rains in March, April,
May, and June ; the sky is serene in July, Au-
gust, and September ; the rains recommence in
October, November, and December, and are
succeeded by the fine weather, whicli continues
from the end of that month to the beginning of
March.
Even in that part, where we are reminded of
Europe and its productions, as at Tunja and
Santa-F^, the same tropical influence is ob-
served. The trees are always green ; instead of
332 TRAVEF.S IN THE
the rains, which inundate the plain from June to
October, there are frozen mists, which render the
dog--days very cold. To these revolutions of the
atmosphere, very different from those which
take place among- us, are attributed the fatal
diseases which there often afflict man, and which
we ascribe to the excessive heat.
To this benevolent arrangement of nature
are owing more abundant harvests, which are
rarely destroyed by the rigour or changeableness
of the seasons ; if any circumstance destroys it in
one place, the effect of these disasters is easily
repaired by the products of the rich harvests
gathered at a short distance.
The land, therefore, hardly ever disappoints
the expectation of the cultivator; thus his la-
bours are different, according to the places in
which he sows In the burning plains of the
Magdalena and of the Cauca, excellent tobacco
is grown : they cultivate the banians, sugar cane,
cacao, and likewise maize, the constant compa-
nion of man wherever he settles ; in fact, it is
met with near the fields of wheat, oats, and pota-
toes, which cover the regions of the cold lands.
In the elevated spots, wheat is sown in
March ; towards the middle of the mountains,
maize in July ; and in the valley, in September.
The harvest is gathered here in January, higher
up in October, and on the paramos in August.
The more the soil is scorched by the heat of
Rl PI BLIC «iF COLOMBIA. '..VA'A
the sun, unci at the same time the more freciiioiitly
inundated, the more vast and majestic are the
forests. In proportion to the elevation, the height
of the trees diminishes, and at 1,300 toises they
are very rare.
A great number of rivers, which are impor-
tant on account of the communications they may
sometime afford, flow in the territory of Colom-
bia : the Zulia, enters the lake of Maracaibo ;
and the Atrato, the gulph of Mexico, after
having traversed a part of Choco ; the Rio San-
Juan, which flows through the western part of this
province, empties itself into the great Ocean ;
the impetuous Dagua, which rises in the heights
of the Cali, falls into the same sea at San Buena-
ventura ; the Rio de las Esmeraldas, which comes
from the environs of Quito ; and the Rio de
Guayaquil, by which the productions of the pro-
vinces near Chimborazo are conveyed to the
coast, also go into the great Ocean. From the
back of the eastern chain of the Andes, larger
rivers flow than those which descend from the
western Cordilleras ; they carry the tribute of
their waters to the Oronooko and the Amazons,
both of which enter the Atlantic, after having
been joined in their course by the rio Negro and
the Cassiquiare. The principal are, the Apure,
which traverses the province of Varinas ; the
Meta, which rises at the distance of some days'
journey from the capital, and in the same ciiain
334 TRAVELS IN THE
of mountains where it is situated ; lastly, the
Putu-Mayo, which, issuing from a lake upon a
paramo, situated on the mountains of Pasto,
carries its watei'S to the Amazon.
These are not the only means of communica-
tion afforded by nature : she lias every where
pierced the walls of the Cordilleras, and opened
passag-es by means of rivers, which although
considerable, are scarcely navigable on account
of the rocks obstructing their beds. Torrents,
ravines, rivulets, fertilize the country, and often
afford the inhabitants roads, which all their
efforts would never have been able to open. The
streams issuing from the Cordilleras, flowing on
rocks and beds of gravel, are generally clear and
cool ; for this reason they are said to be unwhole-
some, the cause of which may be the particles ot
metal which they contain. Among the sands
which they bring down, small grains of gold and
of iron pyrites are often found, and even emeralds
and other precious stones, which the people are
too ignorant to collect.
The Cordilleras must not therefore be looked
upon as an assemblage of inaccessible mountains,
as they appear to be at a distance. By means of
the first range of the heights, wliich are, as it
were, buttresses destined to support the prodi-
gious arch of the Andes, and of the ravines, which
the rains have hollowed out, and which serve to
carry them off, the people everywhere find steps
KKPUBLH; OF COLOMBIA. :3,'i.>
to aid them in .iscciiding the inountains; as they
advance, they meet with vallies vvJiich nature has
phieeti at intervals, and has adorned with all
imaginable charms. At last, they arrive at the
plateaus, which, like those of Bogota and
Quito, form tlie boundary of so many wonders ;
when we reach the Panama, where vegetation
ceases, we are not inclined to complain of the
rigour of the cold, upon reflecting that these ste-
rile tracts are destined to preserve it, for the hot
and unwholesome winds of the plains, purified on
their summits, descend from them in beneficial
breezes into the vallies which they command,
while from their sides the streams flow which are
to fertilize them.
If the earth produces abundant harvests, if
the same mountain yields the harvests of Eu-
rope, and, lower down, those of the tropics,
lastly, if the forests, which partly cover it, abound
in medicinal plants, gums, resins, and valuable
woods both for dying and building, its bosom
contains immense riches. There are provinces, like
Choco, where the soil may be said to be entirely
of gold. 7'he metals, like the agricultural pro-
duce, are, with some exceptions, limited to par-
ticular districts. At 50 toises, we begin to find
the zone of gold and platina, and higher that of
silver ; copper and iron are nearly at the summit
of the mountains.
In the neighbourhood of the principal para-
336 TUAVELS IN THE
mos, there are generally lakes, often of considera-
ble extent, and agitated like the sea. They maybe
considered as the source of all the rivers which
defend the Andes from the drought, which the
vicinity of the equator would occasion, but for
\\ ise disposition of Providence.
The seas which bound the republic of Colom-
bia are tranquil. The temperature and climate
of that part of the great Ocean wliich bathes the
coasts of this country, are the same as those on
the continent. The Atlantic ocean has few dan-
g;ers foi* mariners ; the gulph of Mexico, on the
contrary, present many. The storms and the pi-
rates combine against merchants ; both spread
terror and devastation on the sea and the coast.
The wild animals, the jaguar, the conguar,
the serpents, crocodiles and large lizards, centi-
pedes, scorpions, toads, (acarus americanus) the
sting of which causes the hair to fall off, make
the shuddering of terror succeed to melancholy
in the hot plains. The traveller knows not
where to walk, to sit down or to sleep ; the howl-
ing of the winds, the rustling of the leaves, every
thing alarms him ; the spangles vvith which the
fire flies illumine the woods during the night,
look like the glaring eyes of a serpent, and chill
him with horror.
All the domestic animals of Europe* have
* At Popayan and Santa-F^, llamas are kept as a cu-
riosity, for they are never employed as be.asts of burthen.
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. .'^37
increased prodigeously in America. While every
where else, the heat and low situation contri-
bute to develope their strength and size, and
the elevation of the lands and the cold to check
them, in the immense territorv of Colombia,
we find just the contrary : the animals are all
small and nntameable in the plains, while those
on the mountains are strong, large and docile;*
a fact which is the more curious, as in the Antilles
they have preserved the habits, the forms and the
size which they have in Europe. These islands
have, in every thing, the appearance of colonies,
the continent alone has a physiognomy peculiar
to itself.
At the foot of these heights extend the al-
most uninhabited plains watered by the Meta and
the Oronooko, and fiirtlier towards the north, the
rich plains of Venezuela. The physical descrip-
tion of these countries may serve for all those
which are scorched by the equatorial sun. Six
months rain from April to November, and six
months drought, divide the year. The east wind
prevails in the one, and the north in the otlier.
Nature shines in this country in all the splendour
with which the climate of the tropics adorns it ;
immense forests, savannahs of prodigious extent,
and which are traversed by rivers confined within
* It is not the same with birds, which are larger and
fatter in the plains than in the mountains.
Z
tVSH TRAVELS JN THi:
their beds for six months, and during the other
six, overflowing' their banks to a great distance,
such is the picture of the provinces of the Llanos, of
the Guyana and of the Casanare ; we must return
into those of Caracas and the Cumana to escape
the deluge which changes so considerable a tract
of country into marshes and lakes. Thus, while a
mild temperature and a drier soil induce the
whites (Americans) to cultivate the noble country
of Venezuela, breeding of cattle seems to be the
only kind of occupation which can be followed in
the midst of the marshes formed by the overflow-
ing of so many rivers, and of the forests which
line their banks, the trees of which serve as the
abode of some Indian tribe during the season
of storms.
Thus on an immense extent of '29,952 square
leagues, which M. von Humboldt supposes it to
contain, the territory of Colombia presents a
thousand different aspects ; they are seldom ani-
mated by the presence of man ; a profound si-
lence reigns through nature ; the desert spaces are
so great, that, during whole days, the traveller
might fancy himself in a country where human
foot had never trod. The names of places, villa-
ges and provinces ; the manners, customs, and
even the situation occupied by the Indian habi-
tations, are all unchanged. The solitudes are
as profound, the forests as impenetrable, the
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 339
mountains as inaccessible, animated nature as
solitary; everything, in short, with the excep-
tion of a few places, is as savage as when the
Spaniards entered it. They have contented them-
selves with enlarging the hamlets and villages
where the aborigenes dwelt, and have only culti-
vated those fields which surrounded places for-
merly inhabited.
340 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XIX.
Population — Inhabit aiits of the Paramos — Inhabitants of the corn moun-
tains — Inhabitants of the plains — ludios braves — Negro Slaves —
Religion.
Y^ All
All the provinces of Colombia were so united
under the Spanish government, they had so sel-
dom occasion to compare themselves together and
to hate each other, that they knew only the two
great divisions of Caracas and New Grenada.
The distinctions of colours and cast were unknown.
There were only slaves, subjects and a sovereign.
Now that titles have been abolished to revive the
rights of each individual, there are neither mas-
ters nor slaves ; we find only equals ready to
tear each other to pieces./^ Formerly all consti-
tuted one great Spanish family, at present, if
we except their language and religion which are
the same, the bonds of union are broken. Here
are the blacks and there the whites ; on one side
the half whites, and on the other mulattoes.
To make these differences better known, we
shallgivea distinct account of the different races,
their origin and their mixture ; we shall class the
inhabitants of Colombia according to the places
which they inhabit, and describe in a separate chap-
KKI'UHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 'M\
ter their national cliaracteiv, dividing tlicin into
inhabitants of tlie hot and tlie cold lands.
In general the Creoles who are called whites,
descend from a mixtnrc of the Spanish race with
the blacks and Indians. In the maritime [)rovin-
ces, the first especially have entered into European
families; and in the Cordilleras, it has been ne-
cessary to admit the Indians.
The whites on the coast, have all the Spanish
features ; those of the Cordilleras have more re-
semblance with the Europeans of the north,
though their eyes have retained in a great degree
the obliquity of the Indians ; they have gene-
rally black and rough hair like the aborigenes of
the New World.
A great number of tiie inhabitants of Colom-
bia are disfigured by two horrid maladies, the
syphilis and the goitres ; the children are born
with the germs of the disorder. Tiie first seems
to be endemical in the country. Neglected by
the ignorance of the inhabitants, it assumes a
thousand different shapes ; nevertheless it is not
so violent as in Europe ; every remedy is at hand
to check its progress.
Nothing can cure the goitre ; there are pla-
ces where every body is afflicted with it, without
any reason that can be assigned. However, in
general, it is met with only in the mountains,
and in places remote from the influence of the
sea breezes.
342 TRAVELS IN THE
The negroes and Indians have a strong con-
stitution, very superior to that of the whites.
The negroes have all the characteristics of the
African countenance ; among those of Colombia
are placed the children of the Indian and the
black, whose features are generally handsome,
with a good stature and long hair ; they are called
zainbos.
The Indians are very robust ; their teeth
never decay, and their hair does not turn grey,
till they are ninety years of age. They are ex-
tremely sober, and their stomach so strong, that
nothing can incommode them. The Indians have
round countenances, rather more broad than
long, and a little convex ; the forehead flattened
and the hair coming down within two fingers
breadth of the eye-brows ; the skull low ; the
nose small and thin ; their eyes black, oblique
and without expression ; very prominent cheek
bones, their lips rather thick ; they have no
beard till a very advanced age. They are of
middling stature ; their body square and broad
is supported by little crooked legs. Their co-
lour is copper in the mountains, and bronze in
the plains.
The Indians, formerly condemned to a
state of servitude, have all been declared free
since the revolution ; so that we hear no more
of the distinctions of Indios reducidos (reduced
Indians) ; but that of Indios rucionales or civili-
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 313
zados, (riitioiial or civiliztd Iiuliaiis) ; and those
of Indios bravos, irracionaUs, salrafres, (savage
Indians).
All the Indians of the mountains, except
those who inhabit the heights of Santa-Martha,
and some parts of the chain of the Quindin, are
classed under the first head ; a small numi)er of
the Indians of the plains may be included in it ;
the remainder form part of the second.
The latter are esteemed for their perseve-
rance in labour, and their strength, which renders
them capable of resisting the inclemency of the
weather, though it is not equal to too severe
labour. They are also valued for works which
require patience, and above all for their obe-
dience.
The Indios bravos are an entirely opposite
character; whence the effeminacy which is al-
ways the effect of a warm and moist tempera-
ture, has been ascribed to the custom followed
by those of the mountains of placing their huts on
the sides of lakes and marshes, and their immo-
derate use of chicha.
A temperate climate which never varies
induces peaceable manners ; besides, three centu-
ries of peace, the abundance produced by easy
agricultural labours, of which they are fond,
the repose secured by the remoteness or absence
of formidable enemies, have preserved among
the Indians that mild and docile character, which
344 TRAVELS IN THE
they had even at the time of the conquest, since
in the Cordillera, royalty was every where es-
tablished on a splendid footing, and a traveller
without quitting the summit of the Andes, passed
from one monarchy to another, from Mexico to
Peru.
On the highest summit of the Cordillera, we
meet with Indians feeding their flocks, or retired
into their huts, without any other clothing than
a cotton shirt, and trowsers ; they seldom need
any fire to warm themselves ; whereas in the de-
serts of Africa, the people cannot sleep in the
night, without lighting one. The Indians hard-
ly ever enjoy the sight and the agreeable warmth
of the sun. Always enveloped in vapours, chilled
by the winds which descend from the snowy
peaks, from which they are sometimes only a
few toises distant ; almost naked, but accus-
tomed to this miserable life, they pass their days
unknown to the rest of mankind, with whose
existence they are themselves unacquainted.
Happy in the enjoyment of a liberty which no-
body envies them, they roam about the heaths of
the paramos, without thinking that the universe
is at their feet ; for them it begins in the region
of the cryptogamous plants, and ends with that
of the snows.
There is something singular, though it has
been but little remarked, in the existence of a
pastoral peo])ie, placed at the height of 2,000 toises
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. ,S45
above the level of the sea, who have pasturaj^cs
as rich as those of the plains of Russia, and live
amid rocks as elevated as the Peak of Tenerifte.
From these dcvsolate scenes, where vegetation
expires, we descend to those where it revives, and
where nature resumes her strength. Here we find
another nation of Indians, who cultivate the soil;
the fields are covered with harvests, the seeds of
which they have received from Europe.
The Indian does not like living in large so-
cieties; — he is melancholy, and it is seldom that a
neighbour troubles his repose. Perhaps the In-
dians originally dispersed themselves in this man-
ner, that they might not have among them a
Spaniard under the name of priest or an alcaid.
The Indian of the mountain is not like the
negro, noisy in his pleasures, though equally par-
tial to music and dancing ; tlicy are both fond
of them in a different manner. The negro when
dancing leaps, springs, and stamps with his feet ;
the Indian, on the contrary, moves with a slow
measured step ; the one is animated only by the
sound of the drum, and the noise of his enormous
ivory trumpets ; the other is affected only by the
mournful languishing tone of a hollow reed ; he
listens with delight to one of his bards, beating
time with a hollow bamboo, filled with grains of
maize, or scraping with a stick on the jaw bone of
a mule, the only instrument possessed by the
inhabitants of the Cordillera. Their tastes.
34G
TRAVELS IN THE
their diversions, are as calm as the air they
breathe.
In proportion as we remove from the heights,
the appearance of nature and of the inhabitants
changes. The banks of the river are generally
burnt up by a sultry heat ; we observe other ha-
bits, another mode of life, and often regret the
mildness of the shepherds, and the politeness of
the Indian farmers, when comparing it with the
rude and violent character of the coasters and
the fishermen.
The people of the plains of the Oronooko, and
the Apure, present an infinite variety of colours.
Their character is lively and passionate. If in the
town this vivacity degenerates into rudeness, in
the plains it becomes boldness and courage. The
free negro, or the mulattoe, in the maritime pro-
vinces, if he be not a sailor, is a workman. Those
of the plains return to the natural taste of all
the Africans, and very different from all the In-
dians of the mountains, they are fond of riding
on horseback, hunting and war. In fact, the In-
dians of the Cordilleras love the peaceful labours
of agriculture, are attached to their huts, pa-
tiently support fatigue, and fear danger. The
inhabitant of the plain eagerly seeks it ; to hunt
the jaguar, to tame a fiery courser, to catch a bull
with a noose : these are his sports and exercises.
As bold when they make war as when they attack
the bulls in the woods, these people often employ.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 347
to catch them, a noose of leather, whicli they
throw with such address, tluit whatever it reacliea
is taken and killed. In the pampas of Buenos
Ayres a similar race of men fix iron balls to the
end of the thongs, a terrible weapon, which seldom
misses its object.
Nothing stops them in their excursions and their
enterprises. Mounted on their horses, they capture,
even in the water, fleets which suppose themselves
secure from their attacks. It was thus that Pais
destroyed that of the Spaniards on the Oronooko.
These new Arabs naturally despise the indo-
lent and mild people of the Cordilleras. Civiliza-
tion appears to them to be a weakness, which
they designate by all the diminutives of the
Spanish language. The inhabitants of the Andes
are, in their eyes, not brave and hardy men,
but hluncjuillos, little whites.
The Llanaros, or inhabitants of the plain, are
divided like all the people of the tierras calientes,
into the children of 2 uropeansand Indian women,
and those of negroes and Indians. Among them we
still find tribes of Indians, whose savage habits
have not been changed in any degree ; and who,
since the destruction of the missions, will not
lose them, except by entering into the families of
the new inhabitants of the plains.
The Indios bravos (savage Indians) have
neither the mildness of those called rtducidos ;
nor the courageous, though not ferocious bold-
348 TRAVELS IN THE
ness of the Zambos, who occupy their territory.
They are unacquainted with any other means of
combatting' their enemies then by surprise ; and
when they fall into their hands they eat them.
The want of food, which these people naturally
experienced when they first came into these vast
countries, was probably the origin of this horrible
custom.
The number of savage Indians in Colombia
is considerable ; and though ancient and modern
geographers have included them in the Spanish
possessions, they have always enjoyed a complete
independence which Spain left them, or which
they acquire by concealing themselves in inacces-
sible places. Perhaps if Spain had been able to
have conquered all America, in the first century
after the discovery, they would have been sub-
jected to its laws ; but a hundred years afterwards
the Spaniards thought only of enjoying, and the
conquest of a few barbarians offered no temptation.
Thus the Guajires who live between Santa-Martha
and Rio-Hacha ; the Indians of the Darien and of
San-Blas * ; the Andaquis to the south of Ti-
mana, and the numerous wandering tribes from
the banks of the Amazons to those of the Apure
lived in peace, so long as they did not act off*en-
sively.
It is long since they have disturbed the re-
pose of their civilized neighbours, who, on their
* They all speak English.
UKPUBLIC OK C(»LO>lBIA. ,'il*)
side, do not interfere with tliein. By degrees the co-
lonists advance and make tiicni retire ; bnt wives
are no longer to be obtained among tliem. Tlie
jealousy of tiie men iias contrived to inspire the
women with a violent antipathy for the whites,
whose first invasions have not been forgotten. The
system of repartimientos prevents this inconve-
nience ; by reducing the Indians to the state of
vassals, they were made to consider it as an
honour to enter the families of their masters.
These unions have given birth to a peaceful, agri-
cultural, and industrious population in places,
which before this measure, rendered necessary by
circumstances, had been stained with the blood
of human sacrifices.
The independence which all these savages,
whether mulattoes, negroes, or Indians, enjoy,
and the nature of the country in which they live,
should make the chiefs of the government give up
the idea of again transporting the camel into
America, and they should the less regret that the
first attempt of this kind was counteracted by the
civil war ; in fact, if this attempt had succeeded,
it is very probable that the black and almost
savage inhabitants of the plains, provided with
some bananas, deriving an intoxicating and never-
failing beverage from the trunks of the palms,
would not have consented to have remained in
fixed abodes. Even since the beginning of the
war a great number of the Llaneros have deserted
350 TRAVRLS IN THE
them ; already they look with contempt on the
frozen summit of the Andes, and defying- the
timid and mild inhabitants of those mountains,
they seem to await them in the plains, where,
perishing with heat and thirst, they will fall an
easy prey.
These hypotheses are not without foundation.
The inhabitant of the burning- plain of America,
amidst the oppression of the heat, the plague of
the insects, and the danger of the wild beasts, has
acquired a degree of bravery to which the moun-
taineers are strangers. The mild temperature
which the Indian half whites breathe in their val-
lies has given them a delicate constitution, which
makes them as sensible as the European to the
heat of the plain. They rarely escape the fever,
and often fall victims to it ; so that the new
people of Bedouins, who are supposed to be
spread in the plains, possessing every thing fa-
vourable to a wandering life, the camel, the
horse, large flocks, and the banan would, perhaps,
renew against Santa- F^ de Bogota, Caracas,
and in general against all the towns, the incur-
sions to which they might be invited by the hope
of pillage. Perhaps the roads of Venezuela, in-
fested by their robberies, will not become safe
again till peace be purchased, as is done on the
road to Mecca.
An immense continent, where it was easy to
find a secure retreat, obliged the Spaniards to
RKI'L'BLIC OK COLUMIJIA. lij I
adopt a system of excessive indulgence and mild-
ness towards tlieir slaves. However, if tli*^y had
obviated the danger of desertion, they had not
avoided that of the neglect of agriculture, so
that every thing languished, and the productions
of the soil in the continent were very inferior to
those of the Antilles. Ttiough the number of
slaves was considerable, it decreased every year by
the custom of the Spaniards, who, when dying,
enfranchised them.
The new government imbioingthe principles
of the European peninsula, has shewn itself very
favourable to the slaves, and by a law lately
passed, in forty years there will be none re-
maining in the republic.
The greatest number of negroes is found in
the maritime provinces. Those of Antioquia, the
Magdalena, of Cauca, of (iuayaquil, and of
Choco, contain a great number ; they have in-
creased there in such a manner that the wliites
are noticed as in our colonies. In the eastern
branch of the Cordilleras there are none but
whites and Indians.
In all the families of the people, whatever be
their origin or colour, they are scarcely ever
troubled with domestic discord ; if there is but
little cordiality among the number which com-
pose it, on the other hand there is a mutual at-
tention and respect which give pleasure. Tlie
father of the family is an object of veneration ;
352 TRAVELS IN THE
his children give him the title of su merccd, your
grace, and come morning and evening to pay him
their respect, and to ask his blessing on their
knees.
The kind hospitality which the poorest inha-
bitants of Colombia, formerly took delight in
shewing is now a subject of chagrin and uneasi-
ness to them ; formerly they offered it, now in
many places they will not grant it, unless threat-
ened by the alcaid ; deceived, plundered by fe-
rocious soldiers, every traveller appears to them
a tyrant, coming to occupy their house by force.
Formerly hospitality was gratuitous, now it is
paid for, at least a compensation must be given
to the host. Thus the disasters of war, and acts
of injustice, have given rise to feelings of self in-
terest, and there is reason to suppose that in a
few years it will be carried to excess.
The following is the statement of the popula-
tion of New Grenada :
Whites 250,000
Mestizoes of whites and Indians. . 400,000
Indians 450,000
Mulattoes 550,000
Free negroes and slaves 94,600
1,744,600
Venezuela is supposed to contain 900,000
inhabitants, two-thirds of whom are people of
colour ; so that, in a population of 2,644,600
RI^PUBLrC OF COLOMBIA. 35.'^
iiulividiuils, the nuinbcr of whites is very incon--
sitlerable. But the Indian mestizoes, who, to pre-
tend to the title of whites^ require only lialf a
century to make theii- orig^in forgotten, will
gi-eatly augment this cast, in which they natu-
rally enter by their colour; an inestimable advan-
tage to the whites, as the mestizoes increase with
a prodigious rapidity, and the war does not appear
to have diminished their numbers.
It should seem that, in revolutions, the po-
pulation is hidden like money, and, in fact, wjjen
peace succeeds the dangers of war, it reappears in a
wonderful manner; this will be the case in Colom-
bia, the number of whose inhabitants, after a few
years repose, will increase, as is already proved,
by the cultivation of waste lands, which has
begun in many places.
All the casts, composing the population of
Colombia, have learnt, by the revolution and
by the agents from St. Domingo, to set a value
on themselves. They all labour in concert to-
wards the expulsion of foreigners, each with a
view of serving his own colour. The Indians alone,
indiiferent to the choice of their masters, regret
the kindness shown them by the Spaniards, who
suffered them to enjoy a real indej)endence in
their villages, called by the name of purh/os dt
Indios. They are not much pleased with an eqna-
lity which assiniilates them with the negroes, to-
wards whom they feel a strong antipathy.
2 a
354 TRAVELS IN THE
The stiongest bond of union between all
these races, which hinders them from coming to
a rupture with each other, is religion. Every
where it preaches concord among the people, that
he unity of divine worship may be preserved,
every where its word is listened to with respect ;
all casts, and all classes, submit to its decrees, and
their hatred is appeased at its command.
The climate, the prudence of the clergy, the
education which the people have received from
the Spaniards, and which, during three cen-
turies, has not heen affected by any contact of
foreigners, have inspired all the Colombians with
a profound respect for all the exercises of religion ;
accordingly, the fairest title which a Frenchman
has in their eyes, is that of most christian, and if
they envy our nation in any thing, it is the having
given so many saints to the church.
The authority of the parish priests is abso-
lute ; the respect shewn them is such, that nobody
would, on any account, withhold a part of the
first fruits which are paid to the priest. In other
respects, it is pleasing to find, in the midst of this
half-savage population, prudent men, whose as-
cendancy is able to make them submissive to the
laws, and to counteract the tyranny of the muni-
cipal authorities. The ecclesiastics are reproach-
ed with hating the heretics, and with treating the
Indians with cruelty : but abuses are always
found, wherever man exists.
RKPURLIC OF COLOMBIA. 355
NotwithstJindiiiollie in-e^nihirities whicli are
laid ti) tlie cluiri^re of the priests, the greatest de-
corum prevails in the churches : the devotion of
the faithful is no less striking : genutlcxion, pros-
tration of soul, nothing is too niucli for their fer-
vent piety. Their eyes fixed on the officiating
priest, are never drawn aside by an inattentive
reading of the holy book ; all the prayers are
known by heart, and punctually recited.
The women, as in Spain, can only sit down
on the ground ; contrary to the precept of St.
Paul, they must all have their heads uncovered.
W ith the exception of holidays, vespers are never
said. A person is not allowed to marry till he has
taken an oath that he is not a freemason, and
submitted to a retreat and penitence for a lon<>-er
or shorter period.
These are not the only religious practices
which are different from ours. At funerals, the
body is carried uncovered and richly dresse<l ;
and they have preserved the Indi[in custom of
dancing and rejoicing at the dcatli of an infant.
But few towns have public burying grounds, and
the dead are still deposited under the ])avement of
the churches.
Many members of the American clergv, if
they did not fear, by separating from Rome, to
establish a principle of independence fatal to
themselves, w^ould be very glad to withdraw from
the supremacy of a remote sovereign ; they would
2 A 2
256 TRAVELS IN THE
be particularly happy in having an ecclesiastical
court, but they are afraid of justifying, by inno-
vations, those of their adversaries, and of putting
into the hands of the civil power, which already
claims the patronato (patronage) *, which Spain
possessed in the American church, the spiritual
sceptre which Henry VIII assumed. For this rea-
son, they prefer preserving their authority, which
is always respectable, if they themselves respect
its ancient forms.
At present, the clergy, having no bold lead-
ers, are not dangerous to the new government.
Happy in retaining their property, undisturbed in
their enjoyments, the heads of the clergy receive
the homage with which they are dazzled; and
provided they are honoured, abstain from hos-
tile projects. The plebian members alone would
willingly excite confusion ; they are young and
ardent, but the Roman hierarchy is so immov-
able, that they must either remain attached to it,
or fall into heresy : they choose the former. The
American revolution, partly the work of the
ecclesiastics, because they hoped to direct its
movements and reap the fruit of it, is a field
which still satisfies their ambition ; this is at pre-
sent confined to the gaining a name by writings,
or by speeches in a legislative assembly, in which
it is easy to succeed, because the members of the
* This right was granted to the kings of Spain by Julius II.
in 1580.
REPUBLIC OK COLOMKIA. 357
clergy are the most enlightened men of the re-
public. On the other hand, this transitory
triumph, during- which they have tdready seen
some of their most inveterate enemies crowned
by the people, is a rock against which the moral
influence of the priests is weakened, and daily
suffers by the criticisms the profane make
upon their talents and their eloquence, which
ceases to be powerful in the pulpit when it has
been found feeble in the tribune. They plead
the cause of religion to less advantage when they
have lost that of political interests.
358 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTKR XX.
Character of the Colombians.
After having given a sketch of the races inha-
biting Colombia, we have now to paint the na-
tional character. Some of the features under
which I shall describe them, will, perhaps^, ap-
pear exaggerated to persons who have been ac-
quainted only with the enliglitened men who are
at the head of the government, and the clergy of
Bogota. Undoubtedly, the character which I
draw is not taken from tliese persons ; but, it is
well known that the inhabitants of capital cities
have a character of their own, infinitely different
from that of the people of the provinces. It is
in the latter only that a nation must be studied
to obtain a thorough knowledge of it : a person
who has seen only Bogota, who has met in so-
ciety only the distinguished men who reside
there: will be far from having an exact notion of
the Colombians : the number of strangers who
have visited this city has, in a great degree,
effaced the national character, which is really to
be met with only in the towns remote from the
coast, and from the capital.
RKTUliLIC OK COM)MlJIA. 3.)!^
The Colombians ulio inlmbit the hot hinds
are meagre ; their complexion is very yellow ; in
general they areof small stature, and seldom well
made. The state of debility in w'hich they lan-
guish, arises from the decay of the white races
under the tropics, in proportion as the ])la('k
blood, which is generally mixed with that of the
Europeans, is impaired and disappears.
Ascending into the colder regions, the colour
of the whites is less yellow ; still pale at the height
of 600 toises, it assumes a colour at a 1000 toises,
and has a beautiful lustre at the elevation of San-
ta-F^ de Bogota. Accordingly, the men there
are in general rather handsome, especially in
youth, and though sickly, and liable at a rij)er
age to a thousand infirmities, their tall and well
made figures prevent this premature decrepitude
from being observed.*
The Colombian has but little vivacity in his
features, his countenance is gloomy, melancholy
and without expression ; it is indicative only of
indolence, and the slowness of his motions proves
that these signs are not deceitful; for he is perhaps
only to be surpassed in idleness by his slave.
Patience, therefore, is an indispensible qua-
lity for a stran2:er ; the more pains he takes to
accelerate the motions of a person with whom he
* The dress of the prinripal people is the same as in
Franre; they have retained no part of the Spanish costume biit
the cloak.
360 TRAVELS IN THE
has engaged in some enterprize, the less progress
he will make ; and the consequence of his efforts
may even be, in the end, to change into disgust
the good will which was at first evinced. To
hurry a Colombian is like waking mal apropos a
man who is asleep ; he detests action, except from
caprice ; to direct him, is impossible, and fatal
to the person who attempts it.
The mind of the Colombian is, doubtless, no
less ardent than that of the European, but,
brought up under the dominion of a suspicious
people, he has assumed a habit of concealing by
his impassibility, the disgust which he feels. There
is, however, a remarkable difference between the
inhabitants of the plains and those of the moun-
tains. Those of the Caracas, in particular, seem to
have vivacity, and even self conceit, when com-
pared with the inhabitant of Santa-Fe de Bogota,
who rather seems endowed with a fund of sim-
plicity and good sense.
That pride, which is the basis of the national
character, is the source of the antipathy, which
many persons bear to foreigners, and which they
dissemble under the most affectionate protesta-
tions. One might be inclined to believe also that
the jealousy which the Colombians feel of the
successful activity of the Europeans is the cause
of their hatred, for their only, their constant
thought, is interest. This feeling of self-inte-
rest which, in the North American is the germ
REPUBLIC OF COLUMBIA. 3(> I
of his iiulusti'v anil tlie developer of its progress, is
in the Coloinbians only a mean, selfish sentiment,
like that of a miser ; it is a love for accnmulating
and scraping- together, not the wish for wealth
in order to spend and enjoy it wliich produces
a great commercial activity in a nation. The Co-
lombians have only the spirit of retail dealers.
If in commercial affairs they endeavour to
conceal, under the appearance of disinterested
coolness, every application of well calculated
self-interest, when they treat of public affairs,
they are content with a sujile and protestations,
the insincerity of which is more easily penetrated
than they imagine. They are not backward in
uttering their political sentiments, but the mea-
sures they take are not known till they are exe-
cuted ; the more sinister they are the less they
transpire.
To every question you ask, they answer in
the aflSrmative ; whatever favour you solicit is
never refused, but the promise is forgotten as
soon as given. With the word diligaitia (dili-
gence) always in their mouth, they never stir.
Nevertheless they offer of their own accord to act ;
every thing is a su disposicion (at your disposal :
they are always ready, para scrvir a usled (to serve
you), when you enquire after their health. It is
an error to believe them, and those who depend
upon their good offices, will generally find them-
selves deceived.
362 TRAVELS IN THE
Whatever is said to them, their features are
never observed to change. To hear them, their
modesty seems excessive, for they place America
far below Europe in knowledge and talents. All
these protestations are insincere, and they are
never more flattered than when thev are told that
nothing is done in Europe better than among
them.*
They are passionately fond of law suits, and
detest quarrels. Provided therefore their wives,
in the hot countries, suffer them to lie at their
ease in their hammocks, rocking themselves
continually while smoking their cigars, constant
peace reigns in the house; the more so, as not-
withstanding their apparent calmness, they have
all the ardour of a temperament as hot as the
climate which develops it. Indifference and in-
dulgence insure in the mountains the tranquillity
of families.
Excepting the love of play, and of trifling oc-
cupations, which they carry to excess, their mode
of life seems regular and steady.
Foreigners whose minds are filled with the
pompous descriptions, which have been published
in Europe, of the great number and the riches of
the gold mines of New Grenada, think only of
operations of this kind, while the inhabitants of
the country, looking upon gold as merely a coni-
* See note XV.
HKPUBLIC OF COLOINIBIA. 3().'i
mon metal, think only of discovering ciiiunond
mines.
The generality of the Colombians are des-
titute of knowledge and agreeable talents*. Some
of them however understand French, admire our
literature and prefer it to that of other nations :
the priests in particular are delighted with our
sacred writers.-f~
In all ranks we find a studied politeness and
affability, which, in some persons, are even carried
to excess. The superior classes possess also the
virtue of hospitality which has long since been
banished from Europe. Yet it does not every
where bear that character of frankness, which
renders it so amiable in the eyes of travellers. In
general they pay attention to strangers according
to their dress ; it procures them respect, or
exposes them to familiarity, and if their stay is
protracted, it ends in disgust, and oftentimes an-
tipathy.
It is a rule good to be observed, to avoid as
much as possible, returning to a house where you
have lodged. It is necessary however to assign a
motive for this conduct ; but vvhatever it be, they
will thank you for it. In fact, if you return to
the house, you are looked upon as a man who seeks
to become master there, and who thinks he has
* New Grenada however has produced men of extraor-
dinary talents ; we must place in the first rank Vasequcs, the
painter, and the three botanists Mutis, Caldas, and Zea.
j- See note XVI.
364 TRAVELS IN THE
a right to do so, especially if you have acted
generously towards your host, for they are afraid
that you might assume airs and an authority
much dreaded by the restless jealousy of the in-
habitants.
Respect for parents, the principle of society,
is general among the Colombians, and the titles
of sir and madam, are the only ones which chil-
dren give their parents.
Lying, jealousy, and ingratitude, are the
prevailing vices; every people has its own. To
these may be added revenge, if we put any faith
in the popular saying: " It is for God to pardon ;
man, never."
They often come to a stranger with articles
of silver plate or pieces of stuff, to borrow mo-
ney of him on this security ; he should positively
refuse to lend any, because it is not the debtor
but the creditor who contracts the obligation ; in
fact, if he has the boldness to ask for his money
back, he exposes himself at least to be called
a tyranno (tyrant.) He must above all resist
those letters in which, amidst phrases expressing
the most ardent love, the writer requests an ounce
of gold for a few days, adroitly insinuating that
she will come herself and return it. In general
he never sees either the money or the borrower.
Whether you give or lend, you will be an-
swered by the expression so pleasing to the ear of
a benefactor, but so alarmin**- to that of a lender ;
RRPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 'M)o
Dios se lo pa<>;ii(, may God reward you ; in tact
it is often from his fi^oodness tliat you must ex-
pect the payment of debts, which have been con-
tracted, not so much with men as with hu-
manity. One cannot liowevei* help being sur-
prised at seeing all services acknowledged, by
the people of the country, by this trite phrase.
If they cross over a bridge, or remain several days
in a house, they return thanks and go away with-
out paying. This is Avithout doubt the reason of
the refusals which are met with in many places ;
they are expressed with a delicacy which causes
them to be borne without anger, though tliey are
not always well founded ; for the people who
answer when they are asked a service : Somos
pobres (we are poor), are not always so.
The stranger must, above all things, avoid
every thing that may awaken jealousy, an eternal
source of liatrcd ; that jealousy which the Spa-
niards are supposed to cherish towards their
women is not meant here ; very few Americans
feel it. Talent, sense, knowledge must be shewn
by the stranger as little as possible ; he cannot
display any degree of luxury unless he join with
it inexhaustible liberality ; he must, above all,
never praise the merits of one man in the pre-
sence of another ; it would be very misplaced in
the presence of a poor hidalgo to speak of the
riches of an opulent neighbour. It is for this
3(3() TRAVELS IN THE
reason that the English are reproached with speak-
ing too much of their own country ; which gives
them the air of intending to make insulting
comparisons between the poverty of Colombia,
and the magnificence of Great Britain. In every
case it must not be forgotten, that the least pre-
ference shewn, and the most moderate elo-
gium are affronts which jealousy, the basis of the
national character, never forgives. It must also
be remembered that many Colombians lament
to see their country exposed by the revolution, to
become the prey of clever foreigners.*
That delicacy which may be called the es-
sence of probity, is far from being found among
the Americans. In a great number of them, the
traces of recent slavery are found, which autho-
rise cunning and often bad faith to acquire what
cannot be obtained from the generosity and the
justice of the master.
Another equally well founded reproach that
may be made against then), is that they seldom
feel the impulse of gratitude. They receive benefits
with joy, but soon forget the hand which bestowed
* With the best intentions, it is not always possible
to satisfy every body ; a Colombian seldom stops at dislike,
he is immediately actuated by antipathy, the consequences
of which are sometimes fatal ; thus as soon as you hear : Such
a man, Se puso bravo, be*on your guard : Such a woman, is
Brava, do not go abroad. This expression does not mean that
the individual is brave, courageous, valiant or good, but that he
is in a passion ; thus a tiger is bravo, and a hen brava.
UK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 3()7
tliein. They think too that they have been ex-
torted by importunity, and dispense themselves
from recollecting; tiiem. To ask with importunity,
to receive joyfully, and forget quickly, are faults
common to all Colornbians. If their fathers were
g-uilty of injustice, they are of ingratitude.
In their j)leasures, their feasts and their ce-
remonies they behave without dignity. All de-
generates into a familiarity which puts one in
mind of an equality certainly not that of proud
republicans. On the other hand it produces in
their intercourse with strangers, an amenity
which is very pleasing.
When they have seen a person once, they
salute him ; when they have spoken to him, they
shake hands with him, and affectionately call him
mi ami^o, my friend ; and if he bear the same
name, they give him the title of locaijo (name-
sake.) These salutations and kind expressions,
must be answered with civilities, and seldom
with confidence ; whatever you say is repeated ;
there is no secret which does not expose you to
some vexations. A stranger besides must never
indulge in those effusions of the heart, in that
rage for giving useful advice, which a remnant
of Spanish pride considers as an aifront.
The less chaste conversation is, the more it
pleases ; but the licence must be in the thought
rather than in the expression, because the latter
368 TRAVELS IN THE
leads to some punishment from the tribunal of
penance, which is always dreaded.
Some persons, even ecclesiastics, manifest
extreme incredulity, while they shew the most
absolute respect for the external ceremonies of
religion. It is permitted to read the Gneire des
Dieux, and the CEuvres de Bou/angcr, but not
to mrss a mass or a sermon ; for this reason,
the Colombians always attend them.*
When speaking of the energy and moral
force of the inhabitants of the hot countries, the
developement of the mental faculties was not
meant. The burning heat of the torrid zone, and
particularly the swarms of insects which afflict
the countries comprehended in it, weaken and
distract too much the attention of the mind,
for it to pursue uninterruptedly those me-
ditations which are the parents of great dis-
coveries. The countries scorched by the tro-
pical sun, are the native land of courage, lively
gaiety, address and imitation ; such are the tierras
calienfes. Those which receive from beneficent
nature a mild warmth, are the seat of the arts,
taste and pensive melancholy ; such are the Andes.
Hitherto the Colombians have been destitute
of that enterprising energy of the Russian govern-
ment, or of the people of the United States,
* The men wear a golden cross on their breast, and the
women a scapulary.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 369
which, has raised those two countries in a few
years, to the first rank among- civilized nations.
The government is not yet powerful enough to
rouse the inhabitants from their Asiatic indo-
lence, and the people are not sufficiently fond of
foreigners, to invite them with cordiality, and to
favour them by all possible means. However,
if they do not like them, they take a pride in
treating them well. They will transact business
with a north American, but will prefer living
with a Spanish American, because, if his man-
ners are less frank, they are at least more pleas-
ing. The defects and the vices of the Colom-
bians are common to all nations who have not
yet attained the same degree of civilisation which
we have. With the exception of the political cri-
mes they have committed by way of reprisal, we
have no others to lay to their charge.
2 B
370 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XXI.
Agriculture — Industry — Reflexions on the Banian tree — Mines— Coins-
Salt-works — Commerce— Ex portations — Importations.
Agriculture, which is followed with considera-
ble activity, is so discouraged by the want of
markets that the greatest part of the land remains
uncultivated.
The plough is introduced wnth effect in the
plains of the cold lands ; in the warm vallies
only the hoe is employed.
Though estimated much higher, it is not
thought that the produce of the lands yields
above three per cent. A small number of lands
only form an exception, and this from a peculiar
circumstance : namely, that containing immense
pastures, they rear much cattle, the sale of which
brings in a considerable revenue.
The fertility of the soil varies according to
the elevation of the country. There are no ge-
neral data on the value of the lands. Those
which are already cultivated are, of course, more
valuable, or worth more than those which are
uncultivated ; thev are likewise the best. Ne-
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 371
vei'theless, it is thought that a piece of land fit
for the growth of wlieat, and the breeding of
large cattle, whicli is thirty cords in length, and
fifteen in breadth, would be worth in the cold
region 1000 piastres, and in the warm one 200
piastres. A cord is equal to 78 varas, and a vara
to 37 Castilian inches.
A corn estate, which, at the same time serves
for the pasture of sheep, is valued in the cold
parts at 500 piastres, in the hot regions at 100
piastres, when it is 12 cords long and 6 broad.
Formerly, a considerable estate has been sold
for a mule completely harnessed. Bargains nearly
similar are still made ; in a few years all will be
changed.
The richest farms are those in the neighbour-
hood of the towns, particularly Bogota. The
buildings are well constructed, and the barns
appear to be tolerably well stocked : they miglit
be much more so if less land were employed as
pasturage. On the other hand, if the extent of
the pastures were diminished, what would be-
come of the troops of mules and horses, without
which there could be no communication ? The
ground is so rough and ditTicult tliat great num-
ber of beasts of burden are necessary for the con-
veyance of a few goods. From Bogota to 8oga-
moso, this inconvenience might be remedied by
opening roads fit for wheeled carriages.
Though cattle are very profitable, especially
2 B 2
372
TRAVELS IN THE
wlien they are procured from the plains, the in-
habitants have not imitated the prudent conduct
of the Jesuits, who, to prevent the animals from
suffering- by the too sudden transition from the
banks of the Meta to those of Bogota, had built,
at intervals, farms, where they rested several
days ; thus accustoming them by degrees to
a climate so different from their own, and avoid-
ing- the enormous losses which occur every
year, and which are caused in a great measure,
either by the cold, or by the shock of the stones
of the high lands, which soon break the tender
horns of the oxen of the plains. Horses are, of all
the animals which traverse the paramos, the least
liable to accidents.
The cultivation of colonial articles is less
perfect than that which we have called European
cultivation ; though richer in its produce, it is
much less profitable from the indolence of the
planter. It is lamentable to see the negligence
with which cotton, sugar, and cocoa are culti-
vated ; the indifference with which coffee, indigo,
and the nopal loaded with the cochineal insect, are
suffered to grow without any care being bestowed
on them. Happy in the abundance which he
enjoys without labour, the planter contents him-
self with hoeing round the foot of the banians, or
cutting the sugar cane, with the juice of which
he intoxicates himself.
The present government of Colombia having
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMHFA. 373
felt tiie necessity of favouring agriculture by
every possible means, bad fixed, by a decree of
tbe llth of October, 1821, a very moderate price
on the sale of waste lands. It sold them at tbe
rate of 2 piastres tbe fanega near tbe coast, and
one piastre in the interior.
The fanega of ground has been fixed at 100
square varas, or 20 estadales ; consequently, at
400 square estadales. Every estadale contains 4
square varas.
This liberality of the Colombian government
has lately received fresh extension. The last
congress has placed at the disposal of the go-
vernment 2,000,000 of fanegas of land, to be dis-
tributed gratuitously among foreign families who
wish to establish themselves in the country, on
condition that they shall clear them the same
year in which they obtained the grant.
Industry, whose productions here resemble
tliose of Africa, being still fettered in the tram-
mels of custom will never depart from the pre-
sent course so long as foreign competition shall
check the progress it might make. Besides, are
manufactures so necessary in a country already
sufficiently rich by its agricultural produce and its
mines : If it added to the riches of its soil, per-
fection in manufactures, its connexion with Eu-
rope would cease. Would it then be necessary
for the interest of the old world to establish it by
force of arms ?
374 TRAVELS IN THE
What will always oppose the prosperity of
agriculture among the South Americans, when
they have become independent, is the cultivation
of the banian ; useful in temperate climates, be-
cause it may contribute to the development of
industry, by devoting to manufactures those arms
which, in ruder countries, must be left for agri-
culture, it is fatal in sultry climates where an
excessive heat invites repose, by favouring the
apathy natural to the inhabitants of the tropics.
In the plains of America, the banian must
produce the same effects as the date has caused
in Africa ; it will make Bedouins in the west, as
the latter has perpetuated those of the east. Can
we help believing this, when we see the abundance
of the fruits of this plant, the rapidity of its
growth, and the facility of its cultivation?
Wherever man is not obliged to cultivate
the earth for his support, he becomes a nomade ;
on the other hand, wherever he has imposed
upon himself the necessity of living upon sorgho,
maize, rice, and other grain, whatever be the
abundance of the harvest, he becomes attached to
his field, he has a permanent abode.
In those regions, on the other hand, where
the milk of the cocoa, the cabbage of a palm,
the fruit of a date, the gum of a mimosa, or the
fruit of a fig, are sufliicient to supply his table, he
leads a wandering life, and has no attachment to
any particular place. Why should he fix himself
UK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 375
to any spot, wlien nature has every where j)rovi(led
foi- liis subsistence ? He, therefore roams inces-
santly; from time to time he sits down, rests him-
self, takes some fruit from his leather bag, eats,
goes to sleep, strikes his tent^, and transports
himself elsewhere.
If the produce of the agriculture and manu-
facturiss of the Colombians are uninteresting to
Europe, and give it no reason to fear a compe-
tition to its disadvantage, those of the mines
may become in}portant when they sliall be
worked by more skilful hands. It will then be
very difficult for Europeans to sell to the Colom-
bians copper, iron, and lead, when the latter
shall extract these in sufficient quantity from the
mountains of Opon, Truxillo, Moniquira, and
Guanacas ;* when the manner of working the
gold and silver mines of Mariquita is improved,
their produce will be tripled ; a result of which
the country has the more need, because, dealing
with only one people, the English, who will
hardly receive any goods, they have no means of
paying them but with the precious metals, before
extracted from the earth bv the Sp.aniards. Thev
are transferred, therefore, to Jamaica, and with
such rapidity, that in a short time in the land of
gold not a grain will be found. ,
The mines of Choco and Popayan are still
* See note XVII.
376 TRAVELS IN THE
worked, but in an imperfect manner; the ne-
groes, every moment ready to become soldiers,
leave the finest establishments to fall off. A
mine which employs 60 slaves, and produces
20 pounds of gold annually, is considered a good
estate.
Before the revolution of South America, the
mints of New Grenada produced :
Santa-F^. Popayan.
Piastres.
1801 1,506,356 962,748
1802 1,240,476 962,748
1803 1,192,791 965,686
1804 1,274,576 663,696
5,214,199* 3,554,878
The quantity of gold which the English draw
from the country, and which is still considerable,
notwithstanding the diminution of the produce
of the mines, should not excite surprise, when we
recollect that a great part of it is derived from
the melting of trinkets and of plate, which every
one disposes of,-^
* Vide note XVIII.
f There is a great deal of base money in the country ; a
large proportion of the small coin called pesetas are counter-
feit ; it is to be observed that they come from Jamaica and
Cura9ao.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 377
Several provinces produce ^okl. Hitherto
this metal has been discovered in the greatest
quantity in the western Cordillera, and chiefly
near tlie coasts of the Pacific ; Santa-F^, how-
ever, receives a considerable quantity from Pam-
pluna and Giron ; the last is the most esteemed,
and as much as twenty reals the castillan are paid
for it. The pi-ovince of Antioquia is full of
it ; its mines were formerly very productive ; the
gold was in demand, and though of a low degree
of fineness, (18 carats) produced sixteen reals the
castillan.
In the province of Antioquia a great quan-
tity of a very low standard is collected, it is
called oro bajo, and fetches only from three to
six reals per castillan.
It has been observed that gold is usually found
at a moderate elevation ; Pampluna, however,
borders on the region of the paramos ; and Santa-
Rosa, in the province of Antioquia, is 1324 toises
above the level of the sea. In general the mines
of Choco and Barbacoas are esteemed the richest ;
those of the Cauca, though abundant, are much
less so ; it seems that in Choco the great quantity
of gold injures its quality. This metal, almost
always united with platina, seldom fetches more
than twelve reals the castillan.
Mines of silver are not less common in all
these countries. Those of Mariquita are the most
celebrated; many other places contain them.
378 TRAVELS IN THE
such as Pampluna, Leyva, and the country in
which the town of la Plata (silver) is situated,
which is said to have received its name from the
mines discovered there. We have explained the
motives which induced Spain to close these
mines ; they have ceased with the present govern-
ment, and accordingly several Englishmen have
already thought of working those of Mariquita ;
for foreigners have the same liberty as the natives
of possessing and working the mines.
Mines of iron, copper, and lead, are very
common, only the two latter are worked with any
degree of care, the former are absolutely ne-
glected.
Emerald mines have been opened at Muzos,
and a considerable quantity with which the Ma-
donas in the churches are still loaded, had been
extracted from them, when Spain prohibited
working of them to be continued, without any
other assignable motive than jealousy.
Other precious stones are likewise found,
such as corneHans, agates, &c.
Pampluna is famous for its quarries of Mica,
and Zipaquira for its salt mine *.
This mine, like most of those of the same
kind, is situated at the foot of a paramo. It has
a striking appearance, ITie salt, like an immense
rock of crystal, shines with dazzling splendor
* See Note XIX.
RKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 379
when the rays of the sun come in contact with its
prisms. It is very difficult to extract it ; it being
only by means of iron crows that some pieces
can be loosened. These are immediately thrown
into a pool of water which the rain forms at the
foot of the mine. The water is conveyed through
clay pipes into the manufactories, where it is
boiled for a day and a night to evaporate the sul-
phureous particles. For this operation they use
earthen vessels of the same shape, though of dif-
ferent sizes. The largest cost a real ; tliey can
be used but once. The miners are generally In-
dians, assisted by negroes. Tliis is almost an
hereditary occupation among them, since they
were the first who opened this valuable mine ; they
employ, in the present day, tlie same process as
they formerly used, the rudest that can well be
imagined.
The mine of Zipaquira is not the only one.
There are also those of Tauza and Enemocon,
situated in a similar soil, and all three inex-
haustible ; the salt of Enemocon is the most
esteemed.
The salt of Zipaquira is usually sold at from
six to seven reals the arroba (25 pounds) ; the
quantity sold is very inconsiderable.
The produce of the mine of Zipaquira, which
is badly worked, and the expences of which are
enormous, on account of the purchase of the earthen
vessels and the wood, which is procured from a
380 TRAVELS IN THE
great distance, the surrounding country being-
entirely destitute of it, amounts to nearly 150,000
piastres per annum. The expences of manage-
ment are not included in this calculation. There
are so many salt mines in the country, that
when they are opened, this revenue will be less
profitable.
An Englishman of the name of Thompson, un-
der pretence of improving the system of working
the mines hitherto pursued in that of Zipaquira,
has obtained an exclusive right to it, on engag-
ing to pay the government five thousand piastres
a month.
The inland trade is tolerably active ; though
the individual transactions are of not much im-
portance, this is made up for by the uninter-
rupted course of commerce, for instance, there is
none more brisk than the salt trade ; in the
antient vice royalty it is a coin as current as
money, the value of which being almost inva-
riable, serves as a standard in all bargains.
There is no exchange more frequent and lu-
crative than that of salt for sugar and stuffs.
Few mercantile speculations are attempted
unless they hold out a profit of a hundred per
cent ; this is the only incitement to surmount
the fatigues of the roads.
Next to salt, cocoa is the most important
article of merchandise ; the consunjption of it is
as prodigious as the quantity produced. That of
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 381
the Magdalena is in the p^reatest demand ; that of
Neyva and Tiinana sells at thirty piastres the
load of ten arrobas ; at Antioquia it costs forty
piastres, and at Carthagena fifty, on account of
the expenses of carriage. Cucuta furnishes a
considerable quantity, which is sent to Europe
by way of Maracaibo ; that of Guayaquil, which
is exported to Peru and Mexico, enriches the
merchants of that port.
Flour, the price of which at Bogota is ten
piastres the load (20 arrobas), is neither in suffi-
ciently large quantities, nor of a quality good
enough to be sent to the ports of the republic,
and to compete with the fine flour of Nortli
America, which maybe had there at 10 piastres
the barrel.
Sugar, though very abundant, is almost
entirely consumed in the country itself, as the
Spaniards are very fond of it. It may be pre-
sumed, however, from the low price of the sugar
of Socorro, Guaduas, and the Cauca, that, if the
cultivation were more judiciously managed, and
the roads better, it would be possible by hav-
ing it from tlie provinces of the interior, to ob-
tain it cheaper at Panama, Carthagena, and in
the other ports, where it is as high as four reals
the pound, while in the interior it only costs from
five to ten reals the arroba.
Coffee being little cultivated and little
esteemed by the inhabitants of the interior of the
Cordilleras, is at present to be met with only in
382 TRAVELS IN THE
the apothecaries' shops ; it is worth as much as
two reals a pound, while twenty times as much
might be collected in the country as is produced
by the whole crops of Jamaica.
Tobacco being in universal use among the
Spanish Americans, is in general of a good qua-
lity ; for, they have endeavoured to perfect
the cultivation of this plant from taste rather
than profit. The tobacco of the Cauca is the
most esteemed ; that of Giron, Ambalema, and
Varinas, which is neither so strong nor so rough,
is more agreeable to Europeans.
The Dutch formerly transported 10,000
quintals of tobacco from Varinas, which they
sold under the name of Dutch tobacco.
The government has the monopoly of to-
bacco : it purchases it of the planter at half a
real a pound, and sells it again at two reals. The
exportation of this article, were it relieved
from the monopoly, would yield four times as
much to the state by the duties, for the line of its
custom-houses, though badly guarded, is still
better than that of the droits reunis.
The government has ordered, by a law, that
the overplus should be sent to the nearest ports
to be sold to foreigners ; notwithstanding this
prudent regulation, it is rare to meet with any
other tobacco than that from the Havannah and
the United States.
Cotton, which is ill cultivated, is almost
entirely consumed in the country itself, and
RliPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 383
scarcely suffices to load five or six ships wliicli
come to Carthagena or Santa-Martha. In Ca-
racas, where the culture of it is more attended to,
it is one of the chief articles of exportation. Im-
mense fields will, in future, be covered with this
valuable article.
Quinquina of Loxa, which is brought from
Guayaquil, forms one of the most productive
branches of commerce in this province. As much
as ten thousand loads have been exported in one
year. This quantity has of course diminislied,
since that from the upper part of the Magdalena
has been found to be equal in quality. The
quinquina of Loxa will be nmch less in request
when that ofPitaion becomes an article of foreign
commerce.
The dying woods are a principal object of
maritime commerce ; they are the only produc-
tions which the English take in exchange for
their manufactures.
The skins of leather, destined to pack up cocoa
or to form the beds of the inhabitants, are scarce
in the Cordilleras ; though formerly common in
Caracas, since fifty thousand were annually ex-
ported from the port of La Guayra, the num-
ber has considerably decreased daring the war.
Besides this, the expences of carriage prodigiously
increase the price in several places ; for those
purchased at four reals on the Magdalena, cost
from twelve to fourteen reals at Carthagena.
384 TRAVELS IN THE
The English purchase a great deal of tor-
toise-shell in the gulph of Darien, in the isles of
San-Blas, and on the coasts of Choco ; it seldom
costs above four piastres the pound, and may be
had in considerable quantities.
Pearls, which Europeans suppose constitute
the riches of these countries, produce but a very
small revenue ; it is calculated that Panama
does not export more than what amounts to
about forty thousand piastres annually ; Rio-Ha-
cha, perhaps, does not produce so much.
Mother of pearl, which, for some years past,
has been brought into competition with that of the
east, and which was sold at 10 piastres the
thousand, is no longer in demand.
The pearl fishery, from the Rio-Hacha to
King George's Islands in the Pacific, has been
granted to Cochrane's nephew to render it more
productive ; the English will soon have their
bells, divers, and the fishery will doubtless in
a short time be wholly in their hands*.
Proceeding to a more general view of the ex-
portations of Colombia, we shall see that those of
the provinces of Venezuela, which formerly
amounted to 4,400,000 piastres, have diminished
of late years. This is proved by the number of
* They will perhaps realise the project of an inhabitant of
Guayaquil, fetching divers from the Friendly Islands, and em-
ploying them in the pearl fishery of Panama.
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 385
vessels which enter the port of hi Giiayra *. In
18(M), it anionnted to 338, vvliile, in 18'23, there
were only '228 ; on the otiier hand, the exporta-
tions, which, from this one place, amounted be-
fore the revolution to 2,805,225, are at present
only 2,296,908. The reader is, of course, aware
that these calculations are only approximate.
The war, by dispersing the slaves, has ruined
many estates ; however, a considerable quantity
of cocoa, coffee, indigo, cotton, copper, oxen,
mules, and horses, are still exported from Cara-
cas. Guayana, which is a dependency of this
province, furnishes besides a great deal of capai-
va balsam; and Varinas, nearly 10,000 quintals of
excellent tobacco -jf.
The exportations of New Grenada liave like-
wise experienced some cUminution; speaking be-
fore of tlie revenues of Colond)ia, 1 estimated
them, like those of the province of Venezuela,
at 4,000,000 piastres:}:. This sum is rather that of
the produce which might easily be drawn from
the country, than of the leal exports, since seve-
ral authors agree in estimating tiie exports of
New Grenada at only 2,500,000 piastres ; how-
ever, if we consider the prodigious quantity of
* This is known to be tin; most frequented port in tlio
province of Venezuela.
•j- Native carbonate of soda is employed in tlie ])rcparation
of tobacco.
+ Vide Note X\.
2c
386 TRAVELS IN THE
sugar lost by the bad process of the distillation of
brandy, the cotton and indigo employed by the
manufacturers of the country, who consume a
great deal more than is necessary for the manufac-
ture of their goods, and, lastly, if we consider the
great number of fanegas of cocoa sent to the pro-
vinces in the plains, and which is paid for in
cattle and other produce, it will be admitted that,
on the one hand, the enormous losses caused by
the ignorance of the farmers and manufacturers,
and on the other, the barter lately introduced be-
tween New Grenada and Caracas, and the north-
ern provinces of Peru, may, without any fear
of exaggeration, allow us to estimate tiie exports
of New Grenada in prosperous years at four mil-
lions of piastres. Nevertheless, it is thought that
three-eighths only of this amount find their way
into foreign hands.
This state of things will long continue ; it
costs Colombia 500,000 piastres annually, or
25,000,000 francs in ten years ; this is the half of
the gold and silver in plate and coin which the
country possessed before the revolution. If this
large sum, which has gone to England to pay the
balance of the importations and exportations,
has caused much misery in New Grenada, it may,
in the sequel, produce great advantages, and in
the following manner. Of the four millions of
colonial goods which the country produces,
three-eighths go to foreigners ; three other eighths
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. .'^87
arc employed to the great detriment of commerce,
on account of the deficiency of the (Jolomhians in
the knowledg^e of chemistry and mechanics; Uistly,
the two remaining eighths go to the inhabitants
of the plains. The partiality of the latter for
sugar and cocoa, and the eagerness of the inhabi-
tants of the Andes to possess cattle will perpe-
tuate the commercial relations between these two
people ; they will continue, notwithstanding the
peace with Spain, and the facility of finding
other markets. The millions of piastres of colo-
nial productions, which, in consequence of the
war, go to the plains, will not be restored to
foreign commerce ; but the necessity of sup-
plying the demand of Europe, and of restor-
ing the balance between the exports and imports,
will doubtless give a new stimulus to agricul-
ture.
In general, I think that tiie exportations of
New Grenada have suffered, since the revolution,
an annual diminution of 500,000 piastres; while,
before, they exceeded tlie imports by an e(iual
sum, since, instead of having to make the ba-
lance of its commerce in money, Colond)ia re-
ceived, on the contrary, large sums from Mexico
through the medium of Spain *.
* Colonial produce has rison in price in the ports of Co-
lombia since the revolution, only because it has become more
scarce. This dearness, therefore, has prevented the difference
between the imports and exports from l)eing under that which I
have stated.
2c2
388 TRAVELS IN THE
The English of Jamaica carry on almost the
whole of the import trade ; it may amount to
eight millions of piastres ; a great part is paid in
money, because, besides the reasons 1 have given
above, the natives of South America, the only
traders who make voyages to Jamaica, where the
purchases of manufactures are made, find it much
more convenient to conclude their bargains upon
credit, or to deal for ready money, than to have
the trouble of making up a cargo at home. They
do not understand, like the Spaniards, the mode
of selling their goods by retail ; Caracas has re-
tained the barter trade in preference to New Gre-
nada, because more foreigners visit its ports.
Guayaquil enjoys the same advantage.
HEPUBUC OF COLOMBIA,
389
List of the Merchandise consumed in the republic of
Co/nmhia.*
ARTICLES
PRICE
af
Jatiiaicu.
Fine Cloth 5/"4 blue and black ^ yard
do. !jy4 crimson do.
do. bfi second blue and black do.
do. 3r4 ordinary do. do.
FiueCasimirs 3/4 sorted colours do.
do. 3/4 second ditto do.
Calicoes 5/4 36 ells, Apiece
do. 3/4 34 ells, do
White Calico b/4 15 ells, do
Blue ditto 5A 15 ells, do
do. 3A ^ell
Dimity white and coloured, ^ cll
Nankeen blue, ^ piece
do. yellow, broad, do
do. do. narrow, do
Calmucks 5/4 ^ yard
Printed cottons of fine colours, 20 ells, ^ piece
do. ordinary do.
Ribbons fig', sorted, 24 ells. No. 1 to 3, ^ piece
do. Satin No. 1 to 6, do.
Silk twisted, crimson, blue- and black ^f' fb- • • •
Handkerchiefs of white muslin, ^ dozen
do. ordinary do
Shawls of painted calico, 5/4 do
do. of Cashimir 5y4 4f' shawl
Bretagne of cotton, 4 ells, ^ piece
do. of thread, (Jells, do
Handkerchiefs cotton, coloured, ^^ dozen. . . .
Stocking's cotton, fine ^ do'/.en
do. ordinary, do
Camlets, 26 ells, ^ piece
Paper florctte, #" ream
Muslin white, 9 ells, ^ piece
Cambric white, 9 ells, do
Hats (men's) fine
Iron in bars, ^ quintal
Steel, do
Tin (per bac of 300 plates)
Brandy, barrel of 80 bottles
Wines dry, Spanish, dcmigan of 20 bottles.. ..
Wines of Bourdtuiux, the box of 25 bottles
Almonds dry, ^*' tpiiiital
Raisins dry, ^>' box of 25 lb
Shoes, women's, ijp" dozen
Velvet, cotton, '^''ell
Linen, Irish, ^ piece of 19 ells
f.
30
17
7
10
4
55
30
19
25
2
3
7
4
3
5
25
15
2
7
15
15
.'i
()0
25
2
IM
15
m
15
150
25
20
20
25
40
55
00
150
25
25
170
15
'.m;
3
to
do.
50
50
50
50
50
50
f. c.
35
18
8
11
5
60
35
20
30
3
3
8
5
4
5
25
50
25
50
2
20
16
(!5
IH
IrtO
.JO
50
60
75
l(i5
30
15 50
10
12
16
16
3
65
50
25
PRICE
at .Siuta-Fc
de Bog;ota.
50
50
50
f- c.
65
35
14
16
8
80
60
30
45
4
5
14
II
6 50
8 50
40
25
3
10
35
25
5
90
40
3
30
25
100
30
3 -JO
50
40
35
80
100
140
1.50
350
100
80
300
10
168
Ci
40
50
f.
to 70
do.
38
15
17
9
90
65
35
50
5
5
15
12
7
9
45
30
20
20
40
30
6
100
45
3 50
35
30
iiO
40
350
60
50
40
12(1
l.W
170
375
120
90
3.50
50
* The daily fluctuation in the exchange has determined the tnuwiator not to
reduce these prices to English money — Tran.slator.
390 TRAVELS IN THE
Such are the goods most generally in de-
mand, and the sale of which is most certain.
An assortment of hardware would yield con-
siderable profit: for, in this country they have
neither pick-axes, shovels, spades, nor locks ;
they receive from abroad files, saws, hammers,
&c. &c.*
Articles of luxury are still too dear for the
inhabitants, whether they have been really ruined
by the wars, or whether the loss of a portion of
their property, in consequence of the revolution,
has induced them to conceal a part of it, in
order to save it from the rapacity of the mili-
tary or the demands of government. The ladies
of the capital do not buy fifty shawls, and twenty
pieces of silk in a year; they purchase nothing but
false jewels and trinkets. A great proportion
of the people clothe themselves in cottons or
woollens made in the country.
The coin is the same as that which was
current in the time of the Spanish government.
They have began however to substitute others
in their stead ; the silver money coined now is of
a lower standard than the old coin. The standard
of the gold coin is said not to have been lowered ;
copper to the amount of 1,200,000 piastres has
just been coined, it is the first money of that
metal seen in this country.
* Vide note XXII.
RKPUIJLIC OF COLOMBIA. 391
All the maritime commerce is carried on in
the ports of Guayia, llio-llacha, Santa-Martha,
Carthagena, Chagres, Porto-lk'Uo, Panama and
Guayaquil. Foreigners do not much frequent
San-Tome, Puerto Cabello, Maracaibo, on the
Gulf of Mexico, and San-Buenaventura on the
Pacific.
The English — in appointing consuls at Guay-
ra, the port of Venezuela; at Maracaibo, one of the
principal issues of the Cordillera ; at Carthagena,
the port of the Magdalena; at Panama, the key of
the Pacific — have therefore taken the niost judi-
cious course ; it is surprising they have not sent
any to San Tome and Guayaquil.
Some French vessels, a pretty considerable
number of North Americans with cargoes of
flower, salt fish, and deals, enter into comi)etItion
with the English ; the vessels of the latter, after
having landed the merchandize they bring, re-
turn with balast, but carrying away the gold and
silver, the spoils of America.*
The fear of pirates, who are numerous in the
Archipelagos along the coast of America, from
Darien to the Rio-I3ravo, the infrequent com^
munication between the several provinces, the
scarcity of produce, and tlie facility which the
English ships afford, prevent the coasting trade
between the ports on tiie gulf of Mexico ; it is
* Vide note XX 11.
392 TRAVELS IN THE
carried on with activity only on the Pacific, and
even there not by the Colombians. Ships from
Peru laden with onions, garlick, scallions, and
straw hats go to Panama, where they take in return
English goods which they convey to their own
country. Without this assistance in the Pacific,
without that of the English in the gulf of
Mexico and the Atlantic, would it be possible to
carry on an intercourse with the departments in
canoes, which are in general tlie only vessels the
Colombians possess ?
RKPUHLIC OF COLOMUIA. 393
CHAPTER XXII.
Communication by land and water — Commercial laws.
The impediments to the internal communications
are mucli greater. By land they are obstructed
by precipices, swamps and dangers of every des-
cription ; the more important the roads are, the
worse is their condition, because, though con-
stantly frequented, they are never repaired. Thus
the most disagreeable are those which lead to
the capital, and those from the Cauca to the Paci-
fic, and from Panama to Cruces.
The expenses of carriage are for this rea-
son, triple what they ought to be, so that these
charges may be estimated at thirty-five per cent
upon the goods sent from Carthagena to Bogota.
They are counterbalanced, it is true, by the diffe-
rence of measure, which is forty per cent in our
favour and eight per cent for the English, when
they sell according to the invoice price, because
the same price is asked for the vara, as for the
French ell, or for the yard.
Let the reader conceive roads, marked out
by the rains, opened by earthquakes, hollowed
out by torrents ; the only mode of travelling in
394 TRAVELS IN THE
them is on mules, and in some places on oxen,
whose firm tread enables them to gel out of
the deep marshes where they sink at every
step ; in some parts even this animal is useless,
and then recourse must be had to men, on whose
backs you may travel at a small expence, not-
withstanding- the horrible sufferings of these poor
people. It is thus that you traverse the Quindiu,
and the Cordilleras which separate the Cauca
from the Pacific.
All the royal roads have been cleared of the
trees which obstruct the passage. For this im-
portant service we are indebted to Spain ; it does
not remedy a thousand other inconveniences of
which we will give an idea.
In some places the mountains are so steep,
that the most ingenious method which has oc-
curred to facilitate the rapid descent, has been to
make the road in a zig zag, and in several parts
to cut steps which form a staircase as narrow
and steep as some in those of our steeples ; yet
they must be descended on horseback.
At every step you meet with vallies, and in
every valley, torrents. The communication be-
tween the two banks is formed by bridges made
of two trees, across which are thrown fascines co-
vered with a slight layer of earth. This rude
work trembles and seems ready to sink, there is
no rail, and, by a singular coincidence, none of
these bridges are more than four feet wide. If
HKPUBLIC OF COLOMIUA. 395
one of the rotten supports of these aerial bridges
were to break under the horse's feet, the animal, in
its struggles, would drag the rider into the abyss
below, where he would perish on the pointed
roeks. Yet such is the security arising from haliit,
that people pass over these frail bridges by night
as well as by day, and without even feeling the
least alarm at hearing the roaring of the waters
falling from one cascade to another.
After passing these bridges we generally find
marshy tracts; man endeavours to improve them
with trunks of trees, but he generally fails.
It is inconceivable that, after twelve years'
war, neither of the two parties should have made
a military road. In fact, armies led by able
chiefs against barbarous countries, either to pene-
trate into or to secure the possession of them,
leave them as a consolation for the ravages which
they have occasioned, roads and bridges which
serve the purposes of commerce, to introduce in
the sequel intelligence and riches. The wars wliich
have taken place in the territory of Colom-
bia, having been merely affairs of partizans, the
rocks, the thickets of trees, the bad roads, served
instead of forts, where the troops placed them-
selves in ambush ; besides, soldiers without bag-
gage, without a train, havingonly flying artillery,
need only foot-paths to travel in ; hence, therefore,
it has been thought useless to widen those in Co-
lombia. Morillo, however, has very much im-
396 TRAVELS IN THE
proved some of them, particularly that whicli
goes from Santa-Fe, byway of Cakesa to the Lla-
nos, and that from the capital to the Magdalena.
Occupied by the affairs of the war, this general
neglected many others of the highest importance.
For instance, the dangerous navigation of the
Magdalena, would have been facilitated by opening
to commerce a shorter and safer road by land,
between Guarumo and Guaduas. The other made
to the east of Bogota, by way of Choachi, would
have afforded the means of travelling in three days
to the banks of the Meta, whence it would have
taken less than thirty days to reach the mouth of
the Oronooko. Lastly, the third, rendered more
practicable between the capital and the Zulia,
would have enabled travellers to follow the road
of the Cordillera which is always healthy.
The present government has become sensible
of part of these advantages, and has, in conse-
quence, specified in a licence, granted to a Ger-
man, for the establishment of steam boats, that
he should make a road from Guaduas to Gua-
rumo. This plan is not, however, without diffi-
culties, though all the ground belongs to Colonel
d'Acosta, who is a friend to the improvements,
which would lessen the obstacles ; the difficulty
lies in the choice of three paths, which now serve
for the purpose of communication, and which
will require infinite labour to form a more com-
modious road than those which at present exist.
UR PUBLIC OF COLDMIJIA. 397
These roads seem less tViglitliil to those who
have travelled by water ; however, the inconve-
nience experienced on the rivers, arises less IVoHi
the sufferings you experience than from the men
you have for companions.
The principal rivers whicli are navij^able, or
which have become so by the use of very light
boats, are the Magdalena, the Oronooko, the Zu-
lia, the Cauca, the Atrato, the Dagua, which falls
into the Pacific, near San-Buenaventura, and the
Chagres, which empties itself into the Gulf of
Mexico. All these rivers present the same rude
appearance, the navigation on them is the same,
whence it may be supposed, that the description
of the navigation on the Magdalena will answer
that of the Oronooko and the Zulia.
It is by the Magdalena that the provinces of
Neyva, Popayan, Mariquita, Antioquia, Santa-
Martha, and Carthagena, communicate with each
other. The breadth and depth of the river would
allow large vessels to ascend it as far as Nare
when the water is low, and as far as Honda in
the rainy season. It is doubted whether they
could go, as the champans do, as far as Neyva,
because the latter employ twenty days from
IJonda to that place, and they too are towed.
The sand banks which obstruct and confine
the river in many places, will doubtless greatly
inq)ede the navigation of large vessels, such as
steam-boats, as is sufficiently proved by the acci-
398 TRAVELS IN TUK
dent that happened at Garapata, to a small boat
from Santa-Martha, which was swamped by dash-
ing against the trunk of a tree.
As for the banks which obstruct the naviga-
tion of the Magdalena, it would be necessary, in
order to overcome this obstacle, to diminish the
great canal of navigation, and to change it into
a canal for commerce, for the multiplicity of its
arms, fertilizing a great extent of country, ren-
ders its bed less deep, and, consequently, the na-
vigation more insecure. Thus, at the place where
the waters ought to be the most abundant, in
consequence of the streams which flow into them
from all sides, a prodigious quantity is lost by
the drains which conduct them into the interior.
Lastly, imitating the care which nature takes to
clear the banks of the river, by various means, the
axe should be used on its shores, vv^hich are over-
grown with trees and verdure, and those trunks
and rocks removed which it is often necessary to
approach in order to escape the currents. The
license granted to the owner of the steam-boats
will be useful, and these vessels, when introduced
by his care on the Magdalena, will render a
voyage upon that river less frightful to a European,
by affording him comforts calculated to lighten
the fatigues of such a navigation. The establish-
ment of steam-boats upon the Magdalena presents
great advantages ; they will hasten the period
when the commerce and agriculture of the pro-
IIKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 399
vinces of Cordilleras shall be improved by render-
ing that river tlie canal by which the rich pro-
duce of the bowels of the earth, and those of the
soil shall descend towards the Gulf of Mexico,
whilst the Oronooko carries those of the plains
of Casanare and Guyana, to the Ocean.
The only craft employed on the Magdalena,
are piraguas and champans. The former are ge-
nerally employed by travellers, who are not much
incommoded with baggage, and government cou-
riers ; they are only trees hollowed out with an
axe ; a piragua from sixteen to twenty varas in
length costs two hundred piastres ; it will not
contain more than twenty loads.
Those which are engaged at Barranca, or at
Santa- Martha, do not go beyond Monj)ox, and
employ three days in ascending from tiie sea-
coast to that town ; and more than twenty, to
go from thence to Honda.
Champans are employed in the conveyance
of merchandize ; they are boats of considerable
size, about the dimensions of the fruit boats, used
on the Seine in autumn ; they are covered in
with bamboos, to preserve the cargo from rain ;
this roof also serves the bogas as a deck, on whicli
they place themselves to pushtlie boat along with
their poles. A champan usually carries a hun-
dred loads, which, from Monpox to Honda, pay
each ten piastres for freight. The crew of a
champan, consists of twenty-four bogas, at the
400 TRAVELS IN THE
rate of twenty piastres each. In addition to
which there is the keep of the men, and the
hire of the boat, which is about four piastres
a day. It is frequently more than a month before
thev reach Honda.
These means of transport, are therefore very
inconvenient and expensive, both from the time
lost in passing the rapids of the Magdalena, and
the idleness of the undisciplined bogas.
These men should occupy the last place in
the classification of the human race. They are
a mixture of individuals of every colour, who
have retained nothing but the vices of their res-
pective casts ; when discontented with their
passenger, they sometimes abandon him on the
shore, and, flying into the woods, leave him in
a state of the most cruel embarrassment.
The same boats, and the same men are found
on the other rivers : if some of these present a
more dangerous navigation than that of the
Magdalena, there are others where less risk
is run.
The Cauca, which traverses the western Cor-
dillera, and waters its rich vallies, is only na-
vigable as far as Carthagena, where the mountains
contract its stream, and fill it with rocks and
trunks of trees. If the rocks which obstruct its
course lower down, could be surmounted, the
importance of the Magdalena would be doubly
increased, since it would receive by the Cauca,
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 401
its principal tributary, all the agricultural riches,
which grow in wonderful abundance, from
Popayan as far as Anscrma. The Nare, which
now forms the most direct communication between
Antioquia and the Magdalena, would no longer
be exclusively that of this province and of the
river.
One of the most important roads is that
which leads from Cali to the Pacific, by tiie
way of San-Buenaventura ; the route by land is
so bad, that, in general, men are employed in
carrying the loads ; the river, which is afterwards
to be descended, is nothing but a torrent so full
of rocks, that life is risked almost every instant ;
the piraguas which are used here, are therefore
very small, and lightly laden.
The Zulia is a magnificent stream, but of
inconsiderable length, which flows between Ma-
raca'ibo and Cucuta,* whose commerce in cocoa
is very great. This river will one day be the ob-
ject of the improvements of a firmer and more
enlightened gov^ernment ; some Englishmen, al-
ready anticipating its advantages^ have solicited
permission to establish steam boats upon it ;
but their offers have not yet been accepted.
The Oronooko, the finest river in Colom-
bia, has its banks, like those of the Magdalena,
almost desert ; its navigation is likewise in the
* These towns arc at a distance from each other of iiint>
days' journey.
2 D
402 TRAVELS IN THE
hands of rude and ignorant sailors. This river
presents the double advantage of having- a wide
and deep stream, and of discharging itself into the
Atlantic ; this insures it a great superiority over
the Magdalena obstructed with rocks, and which
besides, discharges its waters into the Gulf of
Mexico, so dangerous, both for the tempests
which so often rage there, and the corsairs who
conceal themselves in the immense archipelago
by which it is bounded on the west, of which al-
most all the passages are in possession of the
English. Who knows even if the Oronooko shall
not be one day the only means of communication
between the Ocean and the Cordillera ?
The English, who let no opportunity slip of
establishing tlieir influence, have entreated a li-
cence for ten years, in order to establish steam
boats upon the Oronooko.
The Atrato concludes the list of the most im-
portant rivers of Colombia. This river was on
the point of depriving Panama of a part of the
commerce of the great Ocean. If the govern-
ment, less embarrassed, iiad been able to effect
the junction of the Atrato and the river San-
Juan, it would have procured the country incal-
culable riches ; but this public work having
been intrusted to a person totally destitute of the
necessary ability and information, gradually lan-
guished, and was at length abandoned.
It was thought in France that Colombia in-
RKI'UBLIC OF COU)MIUA. 10.'^
tended opening a canal, to effect the conininni-
cation of the two seas by tlie Isthmus of Pana-
ma ; but this republic is not sufficiently rich to
undertake so expensive and dillicuk an enter-
prise. On the other hand the execution of it
would be injudicious, as the territory might then
be traversed without the necessity of asking per-
mission from the government, and perhaps with-
out paying it any duty.
The English have caused the practibility of
this junction to be examined. The result of
their observations is unknown ; it is presumed
that they are interested in opposing the openin
(r
of a canal which might hurt their vast Indian
establishments. The opinion of the natives is,
that it would be easy to dig a canal for the pas-
sage of piraguas, but that it would be imj)()ssible
to execute one sufficiently large to receive ships
of burthen.
Such is the exact state of the routes and in-
terior means of communication of Colombia. The
roads are generally travelled with safety ; it is an
observation greatly in favour uf rhe inhabitants,
that after so many civil wars, not a rol»l)cr is to
be n:et with; travellers are rarely molested.
The inns are generally situated in places
where there is water and grass ; and often there is
nothing else. This is generally the case on the bor-
ders of the Magdalena, continually ravaged by the
troops ; every where else, fowls", eggs, bananas, and
2 D 2
404 TRAVELS IN THE
chicha, are to be procured. An ox's hide, or a
mat, is the usual bed, rarely any other ; property
is respected, although the doors are without locks
or bolts. In what part of Europe could one
leave the most valuable effects under no other
protection but a bit of cord, and sleep alone, in
the midst of forests, surrounded with objects cal-
culated to tempt cupidity to the utmost ? The
present government has promulgated several
laws, which it has thought may encourage the
national industry. For example, it has reduced
to two and a half per cent the duty to be paid
by all foreign merchandize sold in the interior
of the country, and to six per cent that which
foreigners were to pay, who wished to sell their
own goods. If a consignment be made to a mer-
chant of the country, the duty is wholly taken off.
In every case it is not paid till after the sale of
the goods. The duty of anchorage is a half pias-
tre per ton. The Colombian ton, like the French,
is about twenty quintals.* This duty must be
paid at the latest, ten days after the arrival of the
vessel in port. The want of warlike stores has
caused to be exempted from all duty, the shot,
guns, and ammunition brought into the republic,
and a diminution of five per cent upon the duties
for all merchandize brought by ships laden with
arms.
Lastly, to favour the progress of the sciences,
* About one ton.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 405
they have exempted from all taxation, 1 ", phi-
losophical and mathematical instrnments ; geo-
graphical maps, printed books, engravings, pic-
tures, statues, collections of antiquities, busts
and medals.
2°, Agricultural instruments, plants and
seeds, machines and instruments used in work-
ing gold, silver, platina, mercury, copper, and
steel ; those which may be employed in the im-
provement of the navigation of rivers, and the
cotton and woollen manufactures ; printing pres-
ses, gold, silver, and all the precious metals.
By other decrees, the introduction of foreign
tobaccos has been prohibited, although they were
at first allowed upon paying a duty of 50 per
cent. The importation of foreign coffee, indigo,
sugar and molasses is likewise forbidden, and,
on the other hand, the exportation of platina and
gold, either in dust or bars.
The coasting trade is exclusively reserved
to the natives of the country. Foreigners can
only convey from one port to another the mer-
chandizes they have brought, and whicli arc
specified in their bills of lading.
The custom house code is reduced to two
laws, one called that of exportation, the other of
importation : this last was decreed the 2nd of
August 182.S ; the following table includes all the
details.
406
TRAVELS I> THi:
Statement of the Entry Duties.
MERCHANDISES.
Imported
from the Co-
lonies on
board natio-
nal vessels
Imported |n,,,orted
from Europelf^^^',^^ ^c
ortheLnited i^^je^ „„
, States on board foreign
l,oard na 10- ^,^^^^,3 «
na! vessels
Imported
from Europe
ur tlie United
S'aies on
board foreign
vessels.
Irou ia bars.
Sheet tiu and copper.
Paper.
Medicines.
Fishing tackle
Tar.
Pitch.
Cables.
Cordage
Cotton stuffs.
Woollen ditto.
Muslin ditto.
Umbrellas.
Hats of Beaver, Cotton, or Silk
Wax.
Spermaceti
Wines.
Vinegar.
Oil.
Gold or Silver watches.
Galoons
Saddles or side saddles.
China, European or Asiatic looking
glasses and glasses.
Silks.
Precious stones
Curried leathers.
Lace
Handkerchiefs.
Artificial flowers.
Artificial feathers.
Mirrors.
Perfumes.
Essences.
Indian Spices.
Dried ar preserved fruits
Olives.
Capers.
Men and Women's shoes.
Boots.
Furniture.
Ready made clothes and linen
Copper utensils.
Bronze.
Steel.
Tallo*.
Flour
Salted meat and other eatables.
ITl-^cent.
15 #* cent
17i^cent
10 #* cent
A
20i#>'ceiit
20 #" cent
\
22i#'ceiit
15 #* cent
25 ^ cent,
17Wcent
20 ^ cent
15^ cent.
22|#'cent
17^#'ccut.
25 W cent
20 W cent.
27|^cent
15 W *^ent.
30 ^ cent
25 ^ cent.
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 407
All the merchandizes not included in this
law, pay 25 per cent when they come from the
colonies in national bottoms, and 17^ per cent
when they are brought from Europe or the United
States in national ones. When, on the contrary,
they come from the colonies in foreign bottoms,
they are subject to a duty of 30 per cent, and 25
per cent when they arrive froin Europe or the
United States.
All merchandizes drawn from Asia, provided
they are not from Spanish colonies, p(/f/ a <IhIij
o/' 12 per cent when liny come in national bottoms,
and 25 per cent when they do not come direct
from Asia ; when they do arrive direct from Asia
in foreign vessels, they are taxed at 20 per cent,
and 25 per cent when they do not come direct.
All articles drawn from the old Spanish co-
lonies, and which are not the productions of the
country, pay the same duties as the merchandize
brought from the colonies ; in the contrary case,
they are considered upon the same footing as
those which come from Europe, or from the
United States.
The tariff of Carthagena serves as a model
for the payment of all these duties.
The exportation act has placed :
Ten per cent upon leathers, cocoa and indi-
go, estimated according to the price current at
the place.
408 TRAVELS IN THE
Fifteen piastres per head for every mule and
horse.
Twelve per cent upon every head of sheep.
The other productions of the country, which
are not enumerated in the decree, pay 5 per cent,
with the exception of coffee, cotton, brown and
white sugar, rum, and building timber, these ar-
ticles are exempt from duties for ten years.
Gold specie pays 3 per cent, and for the pre-
vention of fraud, the duty known by the name of
supposed extraction (extraction presumee)^ has
been preserved ; by this they are enabled to esti-
mate, according to the merchandize imported,
the quantity of specie which has gone out, and
consequently to recover by this means the duties.
Every port of tlie republic may serve as en-
trepots for all kinds of provisions and eatables
brought from foreign countries, upon the word
of the ship's master being given to export them
into other neutral or friendly ports ; this must be
done within six months, under pain of paying the
duties.
•#
RK PUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 409
CHAPTER XXllI.
Departure from Panama — Cruccs — The river Chagres — Tlic Gorpona
Chagres.
1 LEFT Panama on the 18th of November, at six
o'clock in the morning-, accompanied by a mnle-
teer. He had with liiin two baggage mules, one
of which I mounted, and observing it shod, pre-
saged that I should meet with very bad roads.
My conjectures were not ill-founded.
Compared with the country I had just tra-
versed, the Cordillera is here very low ; the tra-
veller is, however, obliged to be always ascend-
ing and descending, and that with some difficul-
ty, for the ground, continually inundated by the
storms of rain wliich come from the two seas, is
nothing but one deep bog, rendered the more
dangerous, by the stones which the ignorant la-
bourers have thrown in it, by way of making it
firmer. The traveller does nothing but slide
about and fall, and is in water during the wliole
of the road. Upon arriving nearly half way, the
declivity of the mountains is to be descended,
which is far more steej) on the side of the Ca-
ribbean 8ea than on that of the Pacific. The
410 TRAVELS IN THE
rain and the bad state of the roads prevented
my arriving before seven o'clock at Cruces,* a
village entirely inhabited by people of colour.
One of them received me with much kindness ;
but his cabin presented the same scene of dirt as
is general with these men.
I, therefore, congratulated myself upon
being able to leave Cruces the next day, and em-
bark in one of the bongos which navigate the
Chagres. These piraguas are so lofty, that the
negroes cannot row in them without standing
upon the benches. An officer, charged with or-
ders for the intendant of Panama, was my tra-
velling companion ; I had imagined that his pre-
sence would have rendered our passage shorter,
and that I should reacii Chagres the same night ;
itj however, made it much longer. At 11 o'clock
in the morning, this young man stopped at the
village of Gorgona, peopled with negroes, and
composed of huts still more filthy than those of
Cruces. The rain, as is the case till the end of
December, was then beginning to fall. The offi-
cer was fearful of getting wet, and Gorgona of-
fered liim such seducing charms, that he re-
solved to pass the day there. The piragua was
under the orders of this courier, and we were
compelled to remain. The negroes were delighted
at finding a white as indolent as themselves. We
♦ Had the road been better, three hours would have suf-
ficed to go from Panama to Cruces.
KKPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. HI
reconiiiieneed our voyage at four o'clock in the
inorniug-. It was cold, and tiie slaves had muf-
fled tliemselves up, one in the cap, and the other
in the cloak of the obliging olficer.
We continued our voyage the whole of the
day between the Cordilleras, whose suniniits, but
little elevated, appear of a considerable height,
in comparison with the low and boggy shores of
the Chagres. This river is not very wide, but its
deep and peaceful waters afford a pleasant navi-
gation. Its banks are generally covered with
thick woods. Now and then a solitary hut is
perceived, in which a few negroes live, sur-
rounded by marshes ; these huts are so damj),
that their roofs, as in the cold countries, are co-
vered with moss. We perceived Chagres at two
o'clock in the afternoon. Four foreign vessels
were at anchor. The view of Chagres is rather
picturesque. An enormous rock, on which rises
a castle regularly built of stone, defemls the
river against the Gulf of Mexico, whose waves
mingle with its own ; there is nut, liowever,
much motion ; the mouth of the river is open to
the north. The village, protected against the
encroachments of the sea, and the attacks of
external enemies, extends along the gentle de-
clivities of the coasts. The water near land is so
shallow, that piraguas alone can approach it.
When we had disembarked, I looked out for
a hut, and soon found one very commodious for
412 TRAVELS IN THE
the country ; I will describe it^, in order that
some idea may be formed of Chagres. It was of
bamboos, and consisted of two rooms ; one was
the kitchen, the other the sleeping room. A
hammock, suspended from the middle of the
first, served as a canopy, under which sat all the
inmates. At night, they spread out upon the
ground ox's hides and barrels of meal, these
served for beds. To increase the disorder, cook-
ing went forward in the same room ; the fire-
place consisted of three stones. Cords tied across
the chamber were loaded with sausages, pud-
dings, and meat, which were being dried by the
smoke of the fire. Lastly, they had put upon a
table all kinds of pots, which were alternately
passed from the kitchen to the sleeping room,
where the mother lived alone. She was a mulat-
toe, extremely old, but excessively proud at seeing
her grand-daughter entitled "by the fairness of
her skin, to enter the cast of the whites.
These smoky habitations, erected in the
midst of pestiferous marshes, often contain pro-
digious riches, the defence of which is confined
to a few reeds, and a leather door tied witli
cords. The merchant, however, deposits his
fortune here without the least uneasiness or risk ;
not a bale is opened, not a single box is ever
forced. Tliis wretched village, therefore, pre-
sents the appearance of opulence, nor did I, in
any other part of the republic, ever see so much
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 413
money in circulation. There are few negroes
who do not gain from 60 to 80 piastres a week ;
these prodigious gains are all spent at little stalls,
which are well stocked with wine and liquors.
The climate of Chagres, although extremely
warm and damp, is not fatal ; all Europeans fall
ill there, but very few do not recover. Living
is very dear in this frightful spot, the price of a
fowl being one piastre, and often two. Water and
wood is also very difficult to be obtained in these
inundated forests, as the negroes despise tiiis
kind of work, as producing little profit, and
being very laborious : these men, when fiee, will
not work without the certainty of considerable
gain.
A great number of piraguas are employed
in transporting the accumulated English manu-
factures into the huts of the Chagres, which are
thus changed into warehouses, the hire of which
is very dear ; for example, 400 francs* per month
when the convoys arrive : a loaded bongo takes
four days to ascend to Cruces. Each package-f-
pays two piastres freight from. Cliagres to Cruces,
and two more from Cruces to Panama. The
freight from Jamaica to Ciiagres is also two
piastres.
The inhabitants of Chagres are so united
* About f 15 sterling,
f From 150 to 2000).
414 TRAVELS IN THE
amongst themselves, that neither contribution
nor conscription can be levied among them. The
system of suspicion established by the Spaniards
in the Isthmus, equally exists under the present
government, and the police regulations, with
respect to passports, are very severe. Strangers
are not allowed to enter the castle, which is but
indifferently fortified.
An English brig of war is the only vessel of
tolerable size which has come up to Chagres, for
the strait is so narrow, that schooners of com-
mon tonnage alone can anchor there. Those of
the English bring stuffs, and carry away tlie gold
of Colombia and Peru, and the silver of Mexico.
The cargoes of the north Americans, who un-
dertake here, as else where, to furnish the peo-
ple with provisions, consist of salted meats, cod,
onions, and some goods which they purchase at
Jamaica. They smuggle over great quantities
of contraband tobacco, under the name of Ha-
vannah tobacco.
I have dwelt at some length upon the dif-
ferent parts of the Isthmus of Panama which I
visited, as it appeared to me that the description
of these places might be read with some interest.
In fact, if the policy of the Spanish Americans,
or their indifference did not leave the roads in so
bad a state, every possible convenience might be
met with, especially on the route to Portobello,
UKI'UBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 415
llie port of which is very secure. Tlie English,
who permit no commercial advantage to escape
them, have undertaken, as I am informed, to
open a road from that city to Cruces, and from
thence to Panama, upon condition of heing
exclusively authorized to transport the merchan-
dize, a privilege for which they offer to pay the
government the tenth part of their profits.
416 TRAVELS IN THE
CHAPTER XXIV.
Arrival at Jamaica — Departure for Europe — Lucayos or Bahama Islands —
Falmouth — Arrival in France.
I EMBARKED Oil board an English schooner for Ja-
maica. I had no less reason to complain of the
mariners of the Caribbean Seas than of those of
the great Ocean. The most sordid parsimony,
during a voyage of twelve days, reduced me to
such a state of weakness, that a three weeks' re-
sidence at Jamaica was hardly sufficient to re-
cruit me. The English, so attentive in procuring
for themselves even the superfluities of life, must
have robust constitutions to be enabled at the
same time, to undergo the greatest privations.
In fact, aboard these little merchant vessels they
live very badly, and in case of illness, will only
take violent medicines without the least discern-
ment.
The very day of our departure from Chagres,
we met an English frigate ; she was on her way
to Carthagena, whence she was going to Santa-
Martha ; this was what our captain called the
round fla toumeej of the English ships of war.
He was performing his own, that of collecting
the specie of the American merchants, which.
REPUKLIC OK COLOMHIA. 417
upon an allowance of two and a half percent he
carried to Jamaica.
We were in sight of Cartliagena on the *2n(l
of December, we then crossed, at a great distance
from land, the currents of the Magdalena; whilst
we were beating to windward in the gulf of
Darien, the winds blew from the north-east, and
the currents had run from the south-west. We
had no sooner doubled the Papa, tlian the latter
were, on the contrary, north-west, and the former
south-west. On the 4th of December we per-
ceived Jamaica. The sea ran liigh, and water
spouts rose on all sides ; but as there was but
little wind, we could not enter the roads till the
next day; after having beat off for some time,
we arrived at an anchorage at noon. I innne-
diately went on shore.
Jamaica is traversed from one end to tlic
other bya very high chain of mountains. Although
a most delicious coolness reigns upon their sum-
mits, the inhabitants are but few. The Creole
throughout the Antilles fears to renjove from the
sea coasts ; he is continually longing to see Eu-
ropean vessels, and the thirst for gain ;is well as
fear, rivets him to the unhealtliy borders of the
sea.
Land breezes blow during a part of tiie day
and throughout the night, a luxury dangerous to
Europeans, for by suppressing j)ers|)irati<)n. they
cause fever; they also hinder vessels from entering
2e
418 TRAVELS IN THE
the port before ten o'clock in the morning, the
time when the sea breezes commence.
In addition to a great number of villages,
there are many small towns in Jamaica, amongst
which Spanish Town, and King's Town, hold the
first rank. The one is both the capital and the
seat of government ; the other the chief com-
mercial town, llie latter frequented by all fo-
reigners is full of bustle, while the otlier is very
dull.
At the entrance of the port of King's Town
is the borough of Port Royal ; near this is the
anchorage for ships of war, which generally
muster from twenty to twenty-five. Indepen-
dently of this maritime force, a very strong cas-
tle and several batteries line the shore through
which is the approach to the port for merchant
vessels.
The stranger who arrives from the Spanish
colonies is astonished upon seeing the activity,
and the great number of vessels which fill the
harbour. Near the wharfs have been built im-
mense warehouses lined with iron, the recep-
tacles for merchandize. This place, which brings
to recollection the London docks, is one of the
most interesting to be seen. Whilst in one part
of the yard are found huge blocks of maho-
gany, campeachy log wood, deals, and spars
from Canada, Virginia staves, iron, lead, and
copper, in another are small barrels filled with
the precious metals of Mexico and Colombia.
UK!'U»L!C OF COF.OMUIA. \t\)
A bustle no less interesting- is to he observed
in tile town. Here, is a warehouse tilled with
the rich stuffs of India, and iVJanehester ; there,
another crowded with iniirors, glass, and goods
of every description. One street is appropriated
to the sellers of salt provisions; the sale of these
is very great, as they form the only article of food
with the inhabitants of the interior.
The streets are so crowded witli passengers,
coaches, elegant chaises, landaus, &c. crossing
each other in every direction, that I was never
more at a loss in some of onr largest European
cities. The plan of Kings Town is very well
conceived ; built upon the gentle declivity of the
mountains, all the streets extend towards the
sea in right lines. This arrangement, however,
so agreeable to the eye, often renders them in
winter almost uninhabitable, for the mountain
torrents then rush down and cause dreadful de-
vestation. The houses are of wood ; at the same
lime they are so clean, so convenient, so beau-
tifully constructed, that they ap[)ear delightful.
In the streets where business is carried on, they
have generally a low gallery, where people walk
sheltered from the heat of the sun. The barracks,
and the theatre, are built upon tiie sanie plan as
the houses of individuals. There is one English
church, one catholic, two Scotch, tlircr iiu'tho-
dists' chapels, and three synagogues. These
2k 2
420 TRAVELS IN THE
buildings, constructed upon the same model, are
only distinguished from the other houses by
their size. The number of slaves in comparison
with that of whites is prodigious ; they amount
to two hundred thousand, while the whites do
not exceed twelve thousand. Among these are
four thousand Frenchmen from Saint-Domingo,
the only remains of twenty-two thousand who
were compelled to quit Cuba in 1808.
Notwithstanding the militias and a garrison of
three thousand men, the black population cause
considerable alarm ; alarm-signals are conti-
nually being fired, and the soldiery are almost
always under arms ; it might be supposed they
feared the invasion of some foreign enemy, that,
however, which they dread is a domestic one.
The system of the English, notwithstanding, is
very judicious ; they acknowledge no difference
but that of a freeman or a slave. According to
their laws, no owner can beat his slave ; should
the latter have been guilty of any crime, he must
betaken before a magistrate, who orders him to
receive thirty-nine lashes ; this is the maximum
of punishment ; it can only be inflicted once a
week. Notwithstanding, however, this species
of justice, notwithstanding the esteem which
the English have gained among the blacks,
the never failing execution of their laws and
the terror of their power, every one is uneasy;
RKPUHLIC OF COLOMBIA. 421
upon tlie least disturbance they run to arms, and
on holiilays a «^arrison is placed for several days
in each habitation.
Jamaica, as every one knows, is very pro-
ductive in sugar and coffee. Altliough these
articles should first proceed to Enj^dand, the
smugglers carry great quantities to the Ignited
States. Jamaica is not only the entrepot oftlje
American continent, from Mexico as far as Peru,
but is also that of Cuba and the United States,
the ships of these countries alone are permitted to
enter the English colony. Although vessels sail
daily for Chagres, Rio-Hacha, and Carthagena,
the prosperity of Jamaica is less owing to its
commercial relations with foreign countries than
to the exchange of its produce against tiie manu-
factures of the mother country, as tliis has the pri-
vilege of clothing and feeding the two or three
hundred thousand indivichials who peopii' the
colony, the relations between it and the latter an*
incessant and of great importance.
Upon seeing the towns, estahlishmciifs,
houses, and customs of the people of the conti-
nent, every thing appears so fixed, that the lapse
of ages only can bring about any change. This
is not the case in the Antilles, nor, consequently
with Jamaica. In his dwelling, and in his do
mestic life, the inhabitant of this arehiprhigo
always preserves the character of the wanchiing
colonist. He seldom marries, and is always
422 TRAVELS IN THE
ready to quit his temporary home ; nothing at-
taches him to the soil ; for his provisions, his
ships, and oftentimes his house, come from the
continent. His character, made up of all pos-
sible contrasts, a singular mixture of the serious
and calculating avidity of the English, the care-
less and factious levity of the French, the specu-
lative and avaricious spirit of the Jews, the cool
firmness of the Danes and Swedes, the negroe's
indifference, and the mulattoe's pride, resembles
neither the wandering inclinations of the people
of the Llanos, nor the mild character of the
inhabitants of the Andes, nor the mercantile
spirit of the north Americans, but partakes,
in some degree of all : for the inhabitant of the
Antilles, to whatever cast he belongs, does not
like to remain in one place ; he has not sufficient
room ; he goes from isle to isle ; he is greedy
after gain, a passion which always induces him to
turn corsair or soldier, and makes him feared
upon the continent, whose armies, when deprived
of their most powerful allies, the men of colour
would, with difficulty, resist the warlike inha-
bitants of the Antilles.
The more I approached the end of my
voyage, the greater was my anxiety to accom-
plish it ; the celebration of Christmas rendered
opportunities very rare, so much so, that only
one vessel, the packet Fleeping; was to set off
in the month of December ; I engaged for my
REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA. 42.'i
passage. We set sail on the 2.3tli of Deeeiiiber ;
two (lays afterwards we were between Cnha atul
St. Domingo. Our voyage continuing prospe-
rous, on the 1st of January we perceived (looked
Island, one of the Bahamas. We there aneliored,
it being here that the English packets deliver
their dispatches for the governor of this archipe-
lago.
The aspect of Crooked Island is very dreary ;
like that of all the Bahamas, the grounil is very
low ; towards the centre of the isle, it is com-
posed of sand and stones, amid which grow a few
shrubs, while the shores, formed of madrepores
and corals, afford a retreat for an infinite num-
ber of turtles, "^riie incomes of the inhabi-
tants, in almost every part of the archipelago,
are derived from the sale of salt and cotton,
which is collected by black slaves. The approach
to these isles is very dangerous, and number^ of
vessels are lost amid the reefs of rocks surround-
ing them : whoever has passed them, cannoi l)iit
admire the courage and ability of ("olnmbus,
which enabled liim to escape the dangers he had
to encounter every moment in a sea beset with
rocks, and at that time unknown. We only passed
the night at Crooked Island, and the next morn-
ing again set sail. Our passage was an excellent
one, and we came in sight of Lizard Point on
the '28th of January, 1824, without the least ac-
cident, and even without the fear of one. The
424 TRAVELS IV THE RliPUBLlC OF COLOMBIA.
next day we sailed for Falmouth, where we an-
chored at sun-rise. The delightful view pre-
sented by the country surrounding the bay re-
doubled my joy at again seeing Europe.
I remained a few days at Falmouth, and then
set off for London ; I arrived there on the 6th of
February, but quitted it three days after, being
unwilling to interpose any delay to the pleasure
I promised myself in returning to France. I only
stopped one night at Calais, and on the 13th of
February reached Paris.
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
NOTE 1.
Description of the Province of Pamphinu, hy Juachim
Camacho, Advocate*.
The province of Pampluna is separated on the south from that
of Tunja by the Sogamoso, which discharges itself in the Mag-
dalena ; on the north, it borders upon Ocana, which is dt^pcn-
dent on the province of Santa-Martha, and upon Maracaiho by
the Tachira, the boundary of New Grenada and of Venezuela.
On the west, it terminates at the Magdalena between the
mouths of the Sogamoso and the Canavcrales ; on the east, at
the llanos de Varinas, where are collected the waters of the
valley of Savateca, the sources of the Apure, a branch of the
Oronooko. The eastern branch of the Andes almost fills this
province, and forms numerous vallies, by which the inhabitants
easily communicate with the gulf of Mexico, by the Zulia,
which forms a confluence with the Catatumba, near the lake
Maracai'bo. The towns situated to the west have likewise easy
communications by the Sogamoso and the Canaverales, both
navigable rivers.
The town of Pampluna in 8" north lat., is l.Sootoises
above the level of the sea. Its temporature, from \i to u,
R. is not verv agreeable, owing to the vapours which conti-
nually darken the heavens. The territory of Pampluna pro-
duces wheat, oats, maize, potatoes, celery, cabbages, beans,
french beans, and an infinity of other vegetable and culinary
plants which generally flourish at this elevation. One of the most
• Seinauario del Nuevo Rcyno dc Grenada.
426 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
remarkable spots of this district is Surata, whose climate is
temperate. Ten thousand load of meal is annually prepared
there, the greater part of which passes through Ocana on its
way to Monpox and Carthagena. The wheat is of an excellent
quality and affords two crops in the course of a year. It seems
to belong to that variety which in Europe is called summer
wheat ; it only grows in places where the temperature is mild,
as in this valley and in that of Savateca ; for in the more
elevated, and consequently colder places, such as Pampluna,
Silos, Cacata, Velosco, Servita, and Cerrito, there is only the
winter wheat to be foimd ; the bread made from which is black
and heavy. Near Sogamoso, at Tequia, la Concepcion, Llano-
Enciso, Malayavita, and Carcasi, wheat, sugar cane and rice
are cultivated. None of the villages in the district of Pamplu-
na, with the exception of the villages of Matanza and Ecce-
Homo in the valley of Surata, gather sufficient corn to enable
them to transport any. They are even sometimes obliged to
import some from the neighbouring cantons.
At Pampluna and its dependencies they cultivate some
indigenous plants which are very useful ; such as, the common
pine fpinus silvestrisj , the resin from which is very generally
employed as a medicine : the myrica fmyrica ceriferaj which
produces the wax called laurel; it is the same as that of
Louisiana ; a galium, the root of which furnishes an excellent
yellow dye for cottons; the chilca [cestrum], which yields a
beautiful green colour ; several species of melastoma [tunos,]
which are used in dying yellow ; and lastly, the vervius, alizo,
and the gazmon which produce the same colour.
In the valley of Taupa, the nopal is laden with the cochi-
neal insects, which are sent into the province of Tunja. The
web in which the insect wraps itself, and which the inhabitants
cannot separate from it, renders the cochineal of Tunja less
valuable than that of Mexico.
The olive tree is very common at Pampluna, but the
mode of preparing the oil is not known ; Europe has therefore
no reason to fear a competition in this article.
NOTTS AND I M.USTR ATIONs. 437
Scpita, upon tli.> Sojjainoso, has pn\'it qnantitios of Brazi-
lian wood; but tlie unfair dealino^s of tho s.ll.-rs liavc lowi-rcd
the prices.
Abundant pastures in this province promise suftirient food
for immense numbers of cattle, if the severity of thi- plaren
would permit them fo breed ; for this reason the itdjal)itants
are obliged, notwithstandin-; multiplied efforts at l)r(M'din>,', to
procure them from the llanos of Casanare, bv ih.- uay of
Cucuy, and those of Varinas, by that of San-Christophi>r. Tin'
dearness of meat causes a scarcity of tallow, for which vc". 'ta-
ble wax is used as a substitute.
Horses, mules, sheep and ^-oats are l)re(l ; toierahlv ;;ood
marocco leather is prepared from the skins of the last.
The mineral riches of Pampluna are little kiioNMi. ira-
dition reports that formerly immense quantities of -fold M.n-
drawn from the mines of Beta and Montuosa. In fact, traces of
great works are still visible. The gold of tlicsi> mines is
carried to Giron by the waters which form the Canaverajes.
The sand of this river contains gold of 23 carats. There are
also silver mines ; this metal has been found at the rate of cifjlit
ounces to one quintal of ore.
The copper mines are rich ; hut IxMiig always l)a(ll>
worked, have enriched the country very little.
The soil of the territory on which Pampluna is Imilt, is
full of mica ; in several places it is found in large sheets : as in
Russia, it is converted into glass for lln' windows; several
fancy articles are also manufactured from it. Quartz, feld-
spar and granite are every where mot with. Every thini; in
fact announces the metallic and mineralogical riches of Pam-
pluna ; but little protit is derived from them, as the works
are ill conducted.
The province of Pampluna does not contain three thou-
sand Indians; they inhabit eight villages. The remainder of
the population composed of whites and half whites may amoiini
to 40,000 souls. They are all agriculturists ; a suiall number
only being mechanics.
428 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
A country which has but few things to export cannot be
rich, Pampluna would even be very poor, if property were
not extremely divided, which diffuses comfort through nume-
rous families. The llanos adjoining the valley of Savate-
ca, would have been for that country an advantageous opening
for its grains in exchange for cattle, if there had been any
road to facilitate this communication. This was however easy to
be effected, by following the direction of the valley watered by
the Chitoya, which, to all appearance, is one of the sources of
the Apure. By this means Pampluna could enter into communi-
cation with Guyana ; Giron could do so likewise with the dis-
tant provinces by the same road, and instead of paying very
dearly for the provisions which this town draws from the llanos
of Casanare by the saltmine of Chita, it would procure them
at a more moderate price from those of Varinas ; this article
carries almost all the specie from Giron.
Cotton is cultivated in this district, particularly in the pa-
rish of Rio-Negro. More than one hundred thousand arrobas*
are annually exported for Monpox and Carthagena ; the rest is
employed in manufacturing coarse stuffs in the place itself.
The Giron tobacco is of a superior quality, and the entre-
pot established at Piedecuesta contributes to the comfort of the
people ; cocoa, of which considerable quantities are sold, suc-
ceeds very well on the banks of the Sogamoso, Surate, and
Canaverales. These countries also furnish large quantities of
capaiva balsam and some building timber : it is carried to
Monpox.
Near the parish of Rio-Negro an abundant amber mine has
been discovered.
If the road were open from Giron to the Magdalena, this
place would enjoy very great commercial advantages. In the
first place the rocks of the Sogamoso would be avoided, which
are the destruction of many boats ; besides which, a vast extent
of unknown lands, situated between the Sogamoso and the
Canaverales, would be much frequented.
* This calculation is evidently exagg'erated.
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 4«9
The navif:;-ation of this last river is far preferable to tlie
other, although its waters are too shallow to allow very deeply
laden boats to sail up it. This canal is of jjrcat utility to the
inhabitants of Rio-Negro, who transport their grains by it
much more quickly and cheaply than by Ocana.
The district of Giron is like that of I'ampluna, inhabited
by a population composed of different races ; very fevr Indians
and negro slaves are to be met with.
The most flourishing towns of this province are those of
St. Joseph and of Uosario de Cucuta, although they want an
opening for their productions. Their territory, varied by the
vallies watered by the Jachira, the Pampluna, and the Zulia,
have some fine cocoa plantations.
At Cucuta, agriculture is confided to about a thousand
slaves. The Cucuta cocoa, c.tlled Magdalena cocoa, as it is
brought down that river, is very much esteemed. The cocoa
harvest may be about 80,000 arrobas annually, which, at the
price of three piastres per arroba, produces a revenue of 2 to,ooo
piastres. If to this be added the produce of coffee and indigo,
which is likewise cultivated in the province, the total of the pro-
perty of Pampluna may be estimated at one million of piastres.*
The greater part of the cocoas of Cucuta descend to Maracai-
bo, by the Zulia. The journey by land, as far as the bridge
of Caches, in the village of Liinonsito, is six leagues ; a very
short distance, but extremely bad, from the indifference of mer-
chants, and from their indisposition to unite when called upon
• This does not appear very exact. The louutry produces a quaa-
tity of coffee and indiiro, much inferior to the cocoa : thus, not withstand-
ing the assertion of Sei'ior Caniacho, the revenue Irora coffee and iudipo
may be said not to amount even to the half of that arisiou front cocoa.
The province of Pampluna has never had a million of piastres in circu-
lation. American authors have (generally the fault of exatrccratinp the
riches of their country : thus, in an Essay upon the Province of Antio-
quia, printed in the Journal cl Semanario del -Vi/cro Rcyno, S.nor Ros-
trepo advances that Antioqnia draws annually fn.n. .i-« mines 600,000
eastilians of ffold. Enlightened individuals of that country own, that tin-
calculation is far from being exact.
430 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
to advance any money without the prospect of a certain and
immediate profit.*
A considerable quantity of Cucuta silver passes by San-
Christoval into the Varinas. It is expended in the purchase
of mules and cattle, of which nearly 10,000 heads are bought
annually. Although pasturage is abundant, oxen are not bred in
these vallies. The salt comes from the coast, when it cannot be
procured from Chita or Zipaquira.
The goodness of the soil is not the only cause of the
abundance of the cocoa-trees ; the care of the cultivators con-
tributes much to it. Instructed by experience, they shadow
them with ceibas and erytahrinas; they water them, and
surround them with flourishing hedges of citrons, fagaras, and
acacias, which, while they defend the estate, present a most
enchanting appearance. They would then have only to con-
gratulate themselves on the culture of this useful plant, were
tbey not obliged to get rid of their cocoas immediately, to save
them from the ravages of the tinea falsa. This insect is also
equally destructive to the corn and grain of Surata.
The town of Salazar de las Palmas has declined in propor-
tion as those of the valley of Cucuta have prospered ; some
rich parishes, however, Sant-Yago and Cayetano, may be reck-
oned among its dependencies : the latter especially has some
beautiful cocoa plantations.
The town of Salazar de las Palmas owes its name to the
great quantity of palms which cover the country in which it
is situated. The different kinds found here, are the royal
palm fcocos hutyraceaj, which affords wine and butter ; the
negro-head-palm fphytelephos macrocarpaj, the fruit of
which can be worked like ivory ; the noli, which may be
* The merchants of Cucuta will certahily at last abandon Ihe road
of Monpox and Carthagena, where numbers of them perish, the victims
of the unhealthiness of those burning climates; whilst, in g-oing- to Ma-
racaibo, they travel in places, the atmosphere of which is pure and heal-
thy j besides, their voyage is not incommoded by those clouds of insects
which torment the traveller on the Magdalena.
NOTES AND ILIUSTnATIONS. 13 1
called cocos ignaria, from llio cottony stibstaiicn found in its
leaves, and which is a good substitute for tinder ; lastly, thr;
murappo fcarludovicaj^ which is used in covering houses,
and the twigs of which are eaten.
Upon the whole, the soil of the province of Pampluna
is fertile, but the inhal)itants are so indolent, that almost
all the country is a desert; which is generally found to be the
case in the more ancient colonies of the kinudom.
NOTE II.
According to M. de Humboldt, the population of the re-
public of Colombia amounts to 2,700,000 souls. Pombo,* who
published, in 1811, an Essay upon the Statistics of New (Gre-
nada, thus calculates the numbers of the inhabitants in imcIi
province : —
Guyaquil
50,000
Loxa and Jaen
80,000
Cuenca
200,000
Quixas and Macas
40,000
Quito
500,000
Popayan
320,000
Choco
•in, < too
Antiquia
1 10,000
Neyva
45,000
Santa-F6
1<J0,000
Tunja
200, < 100
Socorro
1 25,000
Pampluna
90,000
Los Idanos
20,000
Mariquita
110,000
Carthagena
210,000
Santa-Martha
70,000
Rio-Hacha
20,000
Panama and Portobello
50,000
Veragua
so, 000
2,500,000
* A Creole of New Grenada.
432 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
In adding to this number that of the inhabitants of Cara-
cas, which may be agreed at 900,000, the population of the
repubUc will amount to 3,400,000 souls. This calculation is
evidently exaggerated, and is besides little conformable with
the census recently made by order of the present govern-
ment of the republic.
NOTE III.
Bogota was erected into a see by Pope Pius IV in 1564.
This archbishopric is composed of five dignitaries, seven canons,
three prebends, and one sub-prebend.
The suffragans of Bogota are :
Popayan, three dignitaries, two canons, two prebends,
two sub-prebends ;
Carthagena, five dignitaries, one canon ;
Santa-Martha, four dignitaries ;
Merida de Maracaibo.
Caracas, formerly suffragan of Saint-Domingo, has five
dignitaries, four canons, two prebends, two sub-prebends,
six chaplains, six acolytes. The bishop's revenue amounts to
75,000 piastres, about (375,000, fr.*) Quito formerly suflFra-
gan of Lima, has five dignitaries, six canons, four prebends,
two sub-prebends. The bishopric of Quito was founded in
1534.
Panama, formerly suffragan of Lima, has five dignitaries
and two canons.
The ecclesiastical chapter of Bogota is composed of a
dean, an archdeacon, a chorister, a doctor, and a treasurer.
A dean has 5000 piastres : a rector 2000.
* About 14,062 pounds sterling.
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
48S
NOTE IV.
Santa-fe is divided into 195 squares (manzanas). In 1800
the inhabitants amounted to 21,464 without includin;^ in this
number strang^ers and beg'gars, whose residence was not
known. The population since that time has much increased,
the number of births, in the same year 1800, having exceeded
that of deaths by 247.
Sal. Ma. Salazar.
NOTE V.
Prices of some goods at Boi^ota.
£ii(r|iiil)
Meat,
25lb
about Os 7d
Bread,
1
ditto
OS 3|d
Wine,
#" dozen,
ditto
60s
Sugar,
1ft
ditto
OS 5-^d
Confectionary,
23lt
ditto
198
Spanish oil.
1 bottle.
ditto
5s 4d
Saffran,
1 oz.
ditto
8s 6d
Keep of a Horse,
W day,
ditto
is Hid
Hat,
ditto
60S
Half Boots,
ditto
88S
Shoes,
ditto
12s
European wax,
1 It
ditto
7s 6d
Gunpowder
1 ditto
ditto
Cs 9d
2 F
434 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
NOTE VI.
Statement of the tithes of Antioquia, one of the richest pro-
vinces of the Colombian Republic, the population of
which amounts to 106,950 inhabitants.
Years.
Piastres.
1800
31,064
3
1801
28,412
6
1802
24,250
1
1803
28,693
3
1804
25,954
7
138,375 4
The result proves that the expenses of each inhabitant
^oes not e-iLceedi four piastres, (16 shillings) per annum.
Restrepo, Geographical Essay upon
New Grenada.
NOTE VII.
PoMBO in 1811 thus enumerates the revenues of New Gre-
nada.
Piastres.
Santa-Martha and Rio-Hacha,
320,000
Carthagena,
600,000
Panama (on
account of the
trade of Peru),
800,000
Guayaquil,
300,000
Cuenca
60,000
Mainas,
S0,000
Quito,
250,000
Quixas,
40,000
Popayan,
210,000
Choco,
60,000
Antioquia.
160,000
Neyva,
18,000
Mariquita,
23,000
Santa- Fe
180,000
Tunja,
80,000
Socorro,
72,000
Pampluna,
-
70,000
3,273,000
NOTES AND 1. 1. 1; > r II \TM) N S. 4S^
This ftstiniatt^ appeiirs tlic inor • corri-ct, fri»m tin- r<-.
venues of the province of Santa-F^ in the iiioiilh of ()cl()bt>r,
(the statement of which was published in the Orticial Gazette,
in the month of N<)veml)er of the same year) anioimtini; tu
15,107 piastres. This sum, multiplied hy twelve, fjives
181, 284 piastres, a result which resembles Pombo's in a sin-
gular degree. If we afterwards ad<l to the total of tin- r.-ve-
nues of New Grenada, the sum of the revenues of Caracas,
which Senor Jove, a member of the consulate at Cara-
cas, estimates at 2,032,500 piastres, alth(»ugh according to
several inquiries, they do not amount to more than 1,227,336,
it will be found that the revenues of the republic do not exceed
5,305,500 piastres, or 2(3,527,500 francs* whilst the approxi-
mate expences calculated from those of the departnu'iils of
Santa-F^ and Caracas, the table of which was published in
1822 and 1823) amount to 5,715,330 piastres, or 28,7/6,080
francs. f In these expenses the payment of the interest upon
forty millions of piastres due to the English, is not included.
NOTE VIII.
The courier from Carthagena arrives at Bogota, on the «)th,
19th, and 29th of each month, and on the same days the cou-
rier from Bogota sets off for Carthagena. The courier from
Caracas, arrives at Bogota on the 4th and 19th, and quits
that capital for Caracas, on the 7th, 15th, and 22nd. The dis-
tance between these two cities, is reckoned to be 250 leagues.
NOTE IX.
A MASS costs one piastre ; a christening, !2 reals ; a marriage,
12 piastres, and 200, if the banns are not published. A dis-
* Reckouiaj the frauc at 9d English. £W4,7HI„ :» sterling
f i:i,079,ir>„ 10 Hlerlins.
2 F 2
436 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
pensatioi) for the marriage of an uncle with his niece, looo
piastres ; a burial, four piastres and a half for the poor, and
200 for the wealthy.
NOTE X.
The rich mines produce daily at the rate of eight reals for
each slave ; those which are only moderately abundant, and
these are the most common, only two reals. In Antioquia, the
mines are worked by free men, who are called massamorreros.
In this province the locality of the mines is not the same as in
the lands bordering upon the Pacific ; for, in Antioquia, gold
is discovered at 1,430 toises above the level of the sea; the
ore is found scattered and separated by long spaces, whilst in
Choco, it is only found in a line parallel to the horizon.
Restrepo, Geographical Essay 7ipon Netv Grenada.
NOTE XI.
Many persons who have formed an idea of Colombia, from the
events which have taken place there, have no doubt been as-
tonished at the wild aspect under which I have described that
country ; they may perhaps be offended that I have not em-
ployed colours more brilliant in pourtraying a people whose
government and laws appear so far superior to the manners and
customs I have attributed to them. Their surprise at this ap-
parent contradiction will however cease, if they reflect upon the
state of barbarism in which Switzerland was buried, when she
shook off the yoke of Austria. If the Alps became the thea-
tre of a democratic revolution, at a period when theirinhabitants
could find no assistance from any of their neighbours, should
it be more extraordinary that similar movements have burst
forth in the Cordilleras, at a time when so many political wri-
tings have been published and translated into all languages !
NOTES AM) I I.LHsru* TIONS, 4S7
an insurrection is no proof of rivili/iitiou, the loast civiliz.'d
nations are often the most greedy after liberty. It in w.-ll
known that a small number of enlightened men place themselve*
at the head of every revolution ; the people are rarely the first
instigators of it; they are informed that it has taken place, and
the principles which they should adopt, are point.-d out to
them at the very moment they are ignorant a change of govern-
ment has been effected. Thus we have seen the chiefs of Ame-
rican independence, raise the people at the name of Ferdinand
VII ; had they dc^clarcd their intentions openly at first, ihey
never would have succeeded in carrying them into execution.
It was doubtless the better to conceal them, and secure the
triumph of the new opinions beyond the possibility of failure, that
Bolivar, like an able politician, was not desirous of destroying
at one blow the monarchical habits of his fellow citizens. For
the orders of Ferdinand and of Charles 111, he substituted those
of the Liberators and Bocaya ; afterwards, to reconcile the
rich to the abolition of the incorniendas, he pronuilgat.«d in
their favour, several decrees in terms not less advantageous
than that which was made on the l '2th of September 18 ly, for
general Santander, vice-president of the republic ; the prin-
cipal articles of which are as follows :
Article i.
" I grant in full title, and by way of extraordinary recom-
pense to F. P. Santander, the house in this city (Bogota)
which belonged to the emigrant Vincent C-.rdova, as well as
the estate of Ato-Grande, belonging to Pierre Bufanda, in the
jurisdiction of Zipaquira."
Artici.k II.
" It is understood that the said estate of Ato-Grande. made
over, by the above article, to general Santander, ceases to
be incumbered with a mortgage of i<»,(ioo piastres, in fax our
438 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
of Don Francisco Rodriguez. This debt of an enemy belongs,
likewise, to the state, who disposes of it in favour of the new
possessor of the estate of Ato-Grande, and makes him a present
of it."
I had at first thought that the contrast presented by these
acts, and the manners and institutions of the people of
Colombia, would not appear less worthy of credit than that
which is offered by many other nations, a singular mixture of
sages and barbarians, learned and ignorant ; for this reason
I had abstained from quoting several documents which would
have imparted a degree of authenticity to my account ; and con-
cluded by fearing that some degree of malevolence might be
attributed to me. Were this the case, the efforts which I have
always made never to swerve from the truth, would be ill ap-
preciated : to render this the more evident, I have determined
to make public the account of an American, whose opinion
cannot admit of suspicion ;* it will be seen if my opinion of Bo-
gota is more severe than that which he has pronounced upon
Quito, the first city in the Cordilleras, both for population and
extent.
" Quito-j- is the most populous town of the viceroyalty of
" New Grenada ; without adopting Ulloa's statement, who
" makes its inhabitants amount to 60,000, we may estimate
" the number to be from 35, to 40,000, almost all Indians or
" half-whites.
" The greater part of the houses are ill built with bricks
" dried in the sun. The roofs are covered with the leaves of
" the maguey or chaguarqnero (agave Americana). The in-
'♦ terior of the habitations is extremely simple, the saloon for
♦• receiving visitors being the only one which is ornamented :
" this is the only room the walls of which are covered with
* The travels of Caldas, MSS. 1805. This American, born at Bo-
gota, distinguished himself by his taste for botany : he was shot in 1816, by
order of the Spanish viceroy.
f Quito communicates by the road of Malbucha with the port of Ca-
rondelet, upon the Pacific Ocean.
NOTES AND I I.LL STIIATI ON S. 4HQ
" paper and ill executed paintiiifjs. A few lamps affixod to
" the walls, and a chandelier, dependent fntm th." ceilinfj,
" serve to li»ht th*; apartnitMit. The flfxtr is covered with
" a carpet, the tiianiifartiin? (if the ronntry ; some writin;;^
" tables, and sofas covered witii silk, complete tlie furniture ;
" the bed forms the principal object ; it is in an alrnve, the
" frame-work of which is sculptured, richly gilt, and
" hung with damask or velvet ; the bedstead is pilt, the sheets
" are of beautiful Holland cloth, and trimmed with lace ; the
" counterpane is of muslin ; during the day the curtains are
" undrawn, that the bed may be seen, for it is the principal
*' object of the care and expense of the Quitonians,
" There is a hall at the entrance of the Imuses, hiil
" it is very dirty, being never cleaned ; the yards
" serve for stables ; the clover for the horses [mrdirairo
" sativa), is upon the stair-case; the corridors, the anti-
" chambers, the interior of the houses, and the kitchens,
" are all filthy, and exhale mephitic air. In almost every
" house is a boudoir for the ladies to retire to, it is called
" ohrador, or work room. Nothing is of less utility at
" Quito than this room, for the ladies pass their wh<»le life
" either in idleness, or in receivins; and jiayinir visits. The
" obrador is tolerably well furnished, though but little taste
" is apparent in tiie arrangement. On the roof is a terrace,
" where the ladies cultivate flowers ; here they come to warm
" themselves in the sun, and breathe the air, wliiili is not
" always very agreeable, this being the place where the linen
" is dried, the dishes are washed, and other afl^airs still more
" domestic are transacted.
«' The nobility and the middling classes iidiabit the upper
" part of the house ; the common people the groun<l floors.
" Each family has a floor to itself, which causes a frightful
" noise and confusion.
" The streets arc badly paved, dirty and narrow ;
" fountains are rarely met with in the houses: there are
" only three in the city ; the prison presents nothing re-
" markable ; the hospital is small ;ui(l ill regulated: luii. \n
440 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
" return, the establishment appropriated to the poor and or-
" phans, is well kept, and distinguished by the order and
" economy which reigns throughout. It was intended to have
" established a workhouse, but, like many other projects, it
" was never carried into execution. Few public walks are
" found at Quito, the finest, formed by the president Villa
" Lengua, has been destroyed by his successor.
" Provisions are rather dear at Quito ; the beef, which
" is of a bad quality, is not always to be got; mutton is still
♦' worse, because none but old sheep are killed. The milk is
" without cream ; the cheese is detestable, and as they never
" put any salt in it, it is almost always spoilt ; a great quantity
" is, however, consumed at Quito, it being eaten with soup,
" confectionary, and chocolate, in the morning and evening,
" in short, at all hours.
" Salt is procured from Guayaquil, the bay is preferred
" to the white. Sugar is dear and bad, it comes from Ybar-
" ra ; it is worth at least 20 piastres a quintal, and frequently
" rises as high as 30, The article which has the greatest sale,
" and which is furnished by the sugar mills of Ybarra, is ras-
*' padura ; this is a kind of chicha ; the people drink it in
*' large quantities. The cocoa comes from Guayaquil, but is
*' not equal to that of Timana and Magdalena. The confec-
*' tionary made at Quito is tolerably good ; the potatoes are
" excellent, and form the principal food ; the maize has but
" little flavour, this is caused by the great elevation of the
" country ; cabbages and lettuces are good ; when in season,
" there are pears, apples, different kinds of peaches, oranges,
" cedras, lemons, strawberries, mulberries, funas (cactus
" opuntiaj, aguaquates, guabas (mimosa iw^ay, papays, and
" melons ; bananas and plumbs are brought from the warm
" countries.
" The water at Quito is bad; the bread, although well
" baked, is good for nothing, from the mixture of the meal
" of peas, lentils and oats.
" Shut up in its mountains, and not being able to obtain
NOTES AND I LLUSTRA T lUNK. ,11
" the merchandize of lliirope hul al an oiiormoiig expense,
•' Quito has been compelled to create several kinds of industry ;
" this city has, consequently, inanufacturies, the |)rodure of
" which, althoufjfh coarse, are strong and durable, aud are in
" great request at Antioquia, Choco, Timaiia, BarbacoaK, and
" Guayaquil ; this latter town makes its payments in cocoa, the
" others with the gold of their mines.
" The arts, like industry, from the want of models, are
" in their infancy ; sculpture, whose labours fill all the public
" buildings of Quito, is still barbarous ; the servile imitators
" of their predecessors, the genius-lacking Phidiasses of
" this city continually represent Saint Anthony of I'adua with
*' a child upon one arm. Saint Dominic with a dog at his feet,
" The angels with peacocks' tails. Painting follows the same
" track; architecture is equally behind hand ; but lace-making
" is in a state of perfection. This is not the case with car-
" pentery, cabinet-making, and the trades of the goldsmiths
" and locksmiths. As to the tailors and shoe-makers, they
" are utterly devoid of taste.
" The same may be said of the religious houses at Quito
" as has been observed of all others, and of all establishments
" which are on the decline : the scandal of the intrigues which
" divide them, simony, the despotism of the conquerors over
" the vanquished, dissimulation, the base kindness of prelates
" for their friends, sensuality, profane expenses, are there
" openly displayed ; in short, every vice, in order to attain the
" situation of provincial father, a title which confers an au-
" thority truly absolute over the convent, together with tin-
" right of swallowing its revenues, and dissipating its properly,
" dishonours the regular clergy of Quito.
" There are two colleges : the first i> goTerucd i)v the
" Dominicans ; vain disputes about words, little severity in
" labour or regulation, much recreation and affectation in
" dress, such is the discipline in this establishiiient of edu-
" cation. The college of Saint Louis is not better managed.
" A prodigious number of Doctors of every rank, and
442 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
" condition, united under a rector chosen by themselves form
" the University of Quito, with the exception of some who
" have silently instructed themselves, the rest are in the utmost
" ignorance ; for this reason an extreme indulgence is shown in
" the examinations ; never is a refusal or reprimand received
" at their hands ; the young students always answer in the
" most satisfactory manner. The desire of these to become
" doctors in their turn may easily be imagined ; it is for this
" that Quito is the first country in the world which belies the
" proverb, Non omnes doctores.
" Whether from the timidity natural to their sex, the re-
" elusion in which they are kept, or from the superintendence of
" the bishops, the victims of parental avarice, fraternal jea-
" lousy, or conjugal despair, and often of an excessive love for
" God, practise with more exactness than the monks, the virtues
" of that religion to which they have devoted their lives. It is
" true that some among them fall, and that even the austere
♦' Order of Santa-Thei'esa has considerably relaxed its disci-
" pline ; but at least there is none of those scandalous vices
<' which so often profane the convents of men : women some-
" times have frailties, men oftentimes vices."
From Quito, Caldas went first to Tarubamba, all the inns
he met with were provided with bread, cheese, and cbicha.
He then traversed the following towns :
Machake, in 0°. 25'. S. lat., contains 2,200 inhabitants,
among whom are 800 Indians. The thermometer of Reaumur
usually indicated in this village, &". above zero.
Saquilisi, 0°. 50'. lo". S. lat. has camlet manufactories.
Taquaco. On quitting this village a paramo of three or
four leagues in extent is to be traversed before you reach Tigua.
The country where this village is situated, is covered with flocks
of sheep, whose wool is much esteemed.
Taguolo, 0°. 53'. S. lat. produces sugar canes ; great quan-
tities of confectionary are made there.
Macuchimina is rich in mines ; the country is intersected
by so many precipices and rivers, principally by the Yana,
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 443
Yacu, and Pilalo, that the only mode of travelling is on the
sh«»iilders of the Indians, The forests of Macuchiniana yield
great quantities of Peruvian bark.
Pilalo. This village contains 2,000 souls. The winds blow
there with extreme violence in the months of July, August, and
September. On quitting Pilalo, the traveller proceeds towards
Hambato. The country traversed before arriving there is
covered with sand thrown out from the volcanoes with which
the country is filled.
Hambato is a pretty village ; the streets are laid down
by the line ; the houses are very agreeable, those which are at
some distance from the centre of the village are surrounded
with shrubberies of agavas, plumb, pjar, peach, and other
fruit trees, some cactus laden with cochineals increase the soli-
dity of these hedges, and render them impenetrable. All these
cottages isolated and hidden behind these screens of verdure
and flowers, produce a delicious effect. The churches are of
wood and of little height on account of the earthtpiakes. Ham-
bato has more than once been destroyed by this terrible
scourge. The numerous and happy population of this village
is mostly composed of Indians.
Upon quitting Hambato to go to Cuenca, the traveller
crosses the bridge and village of Querro, the Paramo of Sabanag,
the village of llapo, and the plain of Tapi ; in (piitting the latter,
he traverses the ruins of Riobamba. This village was de-
stroyed on the 4th of February, 1797, by an earthquake. The
inhabitants who escaped its ravages have endeavoured to found
a new Riobamba in the plain of Tapi. This village rises slowly,
as if menaced by the shocks of Chimborazo, Cuairazo, Tungue-
ragna, and Altar, which surround it on all sides, it had to fear
seeing itself again crushed beneath the flaming masses vomited
by the Giants of the Andes. The ruins of the ancient Riobamba
are to be rather imagined than actually traced. This unforin-
nate spot is so dear to some inhabitants, that they rather
prefer being buried there, like their family, than t(» quit the
remains of those they loved. Thus, the wretched huts one sees
444 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
there are embellished, when considered as so many altars
erected to friendship and patriotic love.
After having passed over a country in which nothing was
to be perceived but the traces of earthquakes, Caldas arrived
at Guamote, situated in 1° 55' S. lat. " Here," says this tra-
veller, " the two branches of the Cordilleras are easily dis-
tinguished. That on the west is the least elevated. A large
opening is to be seen worked by the hand of nature for the out-
let of the waters. In the province of Las Emeraldas, it only
takes place at Tuipulco, and in Maranon at Totorillos. The
opening here mentioned is the deep bedof the river of Guayaquil."
A very severe cold is felt at Guamote. It is impossible,
however, not to admire the situation, which is very agreeable,
Guamote is surrounded by very high mountains ; the ground on
which this village is built is an island bathed by two rivers, the
banks of which are extremely fertile. Guamote only contains a
small number of cottages built with reeds and a church. This
village was, however, the centre of that terrible revolution
which desolated these countries in 180S. The word excise,
which these people do not understand, a few new taxes it was
intended to impose, caused the insurrection to burst forth ; no
other cause for this movement must be sought for ; none of the
traits which mark the revolution of other countries are to be
found in this. Recollecting the efforts which had been made to
re-establish in this part of the province of Quito the duties of
tobacco and brandy, the Indians feared that they would again
endeavour to impose them upon them. A few imprudent words
sufficed to arm them with sword and torch. Suddenly the ill
suppressed hatred which they indulged against the half whites,
was again roused in their hearts ; they animated each other to
murder, and marked their steps with carnage. In fact, the In-
dian, so cowardly when he is weak, becomes cruel, and im-
placable when he is the stronger. When feared, he threatens,
strikes, and kills ; he, whom a sword puts to flight when he is
not stimulated either by hatred or revenge.
This vast conspiracy, directed principally against the
NOTES AND I M.USTRATION8. II''
whites, and which was to have set all thi'se iiinuiit:iins in
a blaze, was prciniiturcly excnitrd liy tln" iiiiuil>itaiit.s of
Guamote. The other villages, who were to have taken a [>art
in the revolt, were not ready to support it ; it wholly faiUMJ.
Some dreadful examples were made in order to intimidate thi-
Indians ; Guamote was completely ruined.
Continuing to follow the Cuenca road, we meet with
Puma-Chaca. Here commences the descent ; the villages and
cultivation become more frequent. As is done at the Capt- of
Good Hope, horses are employed in thrashing the ctirii.
Alausi is thenext town: it is in 2° S. lat. and contains
5,500 inhabitants among whomareiOOO Indians. AtAlausi com-
mence those vast forests which extend as far as the Pacilic.
Puma-Chaca where the traveller stops, is at as high an ele-
vation as Quito. From thence one enters the Asuay. This pa-
ramo is composed of rocks. The most elevated parts border on
the limits of vegetation. After having quitted Puma-Llacta
at five o'clock in the morning, one continually ascends as far
as Salanag ; this is a plateau at which one rests. Pichts is the
next town ; the air is here excessively cold. The ascent is gentle,
although very long, as far as Litau ; it is here that, properly
speaking, begins the paramo of Asuay, the tomb of a great
number of travellers. When the wind blows there, it brings
with it such a quantity of hail and snow that the air is darkened :
the traveller up to his knees in water, is struck with cold, ho feels
his limbs grow stiff, and often looses the use of them if he has
the good fortune to escape with life. On the Asuay is a pool
of about 70 varas in length (180 feet) : tbn water of this poud
is at 9" R. above zero. Further on, is another of 5 or 6oo
varas long and from 2 to SOO wide. Near there commences
the plain of Puyal, dangerous on account of the deep marshes
there met with ; at the extremity of the Puyal arc the ruins
of a palace of the Incas, it is built of stone without cement
the Indians have evinced a very singular taste in the choice
of the places where they have constructed their pleasure
446 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
houses, since, during' eight months of the year, there is continued
hail and rain here.
After having' passed Alto de la Virgen, Caldas entered
Delek. This village is peopled with Indians ; the country-
assumes a more smiling aspect, the roads are better ; the
population increases, every thing' announces the approach to
a town of importance : one is not deceived, one has arrived at
Cuenca, situated in a plain of considerable extent, the elevation
of which, above the level of the sea, is 1279 toises.
The temperature of Cuenca is very ag'reeable, it rarely
descends during the day below 12", and never rises above 15° ;
the nights are very cool, for the thermometer is often not more
then 6.
The sky is sometimes cloudy, but it rains less often than
at Quito, and the storms last but a short time in the months
of October and March. The rains, frequent during the equi-
noxes, are rare during the solstice ; then the clouds evapo-
rate, the sky assumes an azure blue ; this is the season of
fine weather, with this difference however, that in the spring
solstice there are four magnificent months, whilst in the win-
ter solstice there are generally thirty days of rain. The
ground on which Cuenca is built is flat, sandy and arid. The
streets laid down by the line, are each 125 varas long (3^3
feet) and 12 wide (31 feet); the greater part of them are
paved.
Cuenca is the only town which enjoys the advantage of
being every where supplied with water. The houses are all
constructed with unbaked bricks, without taste, extremely
low, dirty, and without any ornament. Filth is a characteristic
trait of the province of Quito. The churches are poor and
ill decorated ; with the exception of the Jesuits' College, the
town is without public edifices. The chapter of the Cathedral
consists of a dean, an archdeacon, a penitentiary, a doctor
and two deacons. The governor has a salary of 2,500 piastres.
The population amounts to 19,000 souls, including 3000 Indians.
NOTKS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 4 j;
There are convenN of Domiiiirans, Franrisrans, Augiistiiu-s,
Hospitallers, B.'tliltMuitfS, and Carm.'Iitos. Th.T.' are two pa-
rishes San-Blas and San-Sebastian : ilie eonvents aro dcpiMi-
dent on those of Quito. The absolute want of instrmtion and
intelligence renders the clergy of this town far inferior to iliaf
of Quito. Tortoise shell is worked here with considerable taste;
the arts of modeling in wax and sculpture in marble decline
daily.
The society of Cuenca is composed of throe classes :
the nobility, who pass their lives in idleness ; the citizens,
who are devoted to commerce ; and the people who are enga-
ged in the most laborious works, for the curate and rbii-fs
overwhelm them (I speak of the Inrlians) with the most
grievous burdens.
Cuenca receives cotton and soap from Piura ; cocoa, rice,
salt, fish, wine, oil, and European earthenware, from (iuaya-
quil ; and lastly from Quito, some coarse stuffs : in return it
furnishes Loxa and Guayaquil with the grains and productions
of the surrounding mountains.
The valley of Paute is dependent on Cuenca ; it is seven
leagues north-east of that town. Quicksilver mines have
been discovered there. The mountains in the neighbourhood
produce great quantities of Peruvian bark ; that which in ilie
country is called pata de gallinazo is gathered at an elevation
of 403 varas higher than that of Quito.
San-Christoval, situated upon the Supay, Uccu and Qua-
laceo, belong to the jurisdiction of Paute. In its environs are
gathered cochineal and sugar : gold njines are also worked,
Guagual-Suma is a hill famous in this country, because it is
suspected that the Indians continue to sacrifice their infants there
to the manes of their Incas ; neither Christianity nor the vi-
gilance of the Spaniards have been able to abolish this horri-
ble custom. Without historians, without monuments, ih.- In-
dians have neither forgotten their ancient masters, nor their
past misfortunes.
448 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS,
NOTE XII.
Observations upon the means of establishing- a communica-
tion by water, between the gulf of Mexico, and the Pacific,
by the river Atrato, which discharg-es itself into the gulf
of Darien, and by the river San- Juan, which nearly communi-
cates with the upper part of the Atrato, and falls into the Pa-
cific Ocean, in the bay of Chirambira.*
" The principal mouth of the Atrato, is called Barbacoas.
" It is situated in 8° 12' north latitude. The length of this
" river is 480 miles, reckoning from its source. At its mouth,
" commences the grand bay of Candelaria, capable of contain-
" ing all the fleets in the universe, having a good anchorage,
" of from 1 8 to 30 fathoms depth, sheltered against every wind,
" and only subject to a strong sea in the months when the
" north-winds prevail. Its bar even in the dry season, and at
" low tide, has five feet water ; during the rainy season, and
" high tides, six feet and a half, extending about 900 yards
" with a hard sand bottom.
" The first river of any size which discharges itself into
" the Atrato, is called Rio-Sucio, and is in latitude 7° 46'
" north. In its present state, it is not navigable, on account
" of the trees and rocks, which obstruct its progress."
" The second is the Mariendo. This river is in 7° 6'
" north latitude. Twenty miles beyond its junction with the
" Atrato are seen some very lofty mountains which bear the
" same name ; they abound in many species of valuable woods.
" The third, is the Napipi, which falls into the Atrato,
" in latitude 6° 3S' north. By means of this river, an easy
" communication might be opened with the Pacific Ocean, which
" is only at the distance of six miles from the source of the
" Napipi. From the source of the Napipi to the inn built
" above the river of Don Carlos, is reckoned a three days'
"journey, about 100 miles; from this point to the inn at
" Antado, six hours or 18 miles. From thence is a journey
" over land as far as the bay of Cupica, in the Pacific Ocean, this
* The author of this interesting but anonymous essay is an Eng-lishmau.
NOTES AND I I. I.l sTit V I' I o NS. 449
*' takos (Hit; (lay's travollinu^. 'I'lic joiinicv is porfuriiHMl on
" mules, (»r on llie backs (if men. Tlic port of I'upica is f\-
" cellent for every kind of vessels.
" The fourth river which discharjjes itself into tin- Alra-
" to, is the Bevara ; it is in latitude (>" â– >' north. I'lftccn
" niilcvS beyond its omboiichure is a warehouse (bodepa), serv-
" ing as a depot for the merchandises destined for Antioquia.
" From this warehouse to Verras, is a land journey of sixty
" miles. It is generally perfornuHl on the l>acks of men, and
" usually takes seven days to accomplish it ; the prir(> (»f a
" load, of 125 pounds, is 12 piastres.
" On the road from Verras to Antioquia (forty miles),
" mules are used : each mule costs four piastres.
" The capital of the province of Choco is, San I'rancisco
" de Luibdo or Citara, situated at a distance of Hm inil'--' from
*' the sea ; it has but one church and a custom house ; its po-
*' pulation does not amount to a thousand inhabitants.
" As far as Citara, the Atrato presents but few obstacles
" to vessels which do not draw more than seven feet water.
*' Its course is equally clear of rocks and trunks of trees. The
" stream of the Atrato in the dry season, runs two niiles per
" hour, and five in the rainy season. The source of this river
" is forty-eight miles beyond Citara.
"Opposite this town tin- (iiiilo mingles itself with ili.-
Atrato ; it is by this river that the inhabitants reach ili.-
ravine of San Pablo; in the dry season, it presents some diffi-
culties on account of the little depth. This obstacle may easily
be removed by means of sluices and other snachincs known in
Europe; besides the ravine of San Pablo, is only two miles
wide.
NOTE Xlll.
The territory, in the province of Antio(juia, in \vlii( li arc si-
tuated the towns of llcmedios, Saragusa, Caceres, Cancan.
2 G
450 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS,
Yalomba, and San-Bartholome, the extent of which may be
about fifty leagues, only contains 6,303, inhabitants.
Restrepo, Essai/, &c.
NOTE XIV.
Words in the Language of the Indians of Choco:
Copdour chief
Ouenmehor man-eater
Decoupera ^ • • woman
Hemeora man.
Babkoukena white.
Gaouna indian.
Ningour black.
Ourima capun come here.
Carpemara how much.
Amba one.
Noumi two.
Canoupa three.
Aiapa four.
Conambo five.
Andkinananiba six.
NOTE XV.
The Colombians are even little flattered at comparisons
being drawn between them and the Europeans, they are espe-
cially very jealous of the talents of their generals. There ai'e
many persons in Colombia, who consider Bolivar as a warrior
far superior to Bonaparte. Very few indeed of our learned men
appear to them of a merit above that of Mutis, Caldas, and Zea.
Vasques their painter, and Mosquera the first orator of their
chamber of deputies, are men whose ability in their opinion
is not at all eclipsed by that of the finest genuises of Europe.
There is no exaggeration in this, as these opinions are almost
NOTES AND I 1, 1.USTK ATI ON S. 451
general. If a few persons suppress tlu'Mi hefori? slran-rers,
their silence must be attributed lo their excessive modesty. It
is useless to say that they think but little of European soldiers;
their own victories over the Spanish troops may confirm them in
their contempt for the troops of our continent.
These and similar sentiments will not excite surprise when it
is known, that many Colombians add to the pride so peculiar to
.Spaniards, a very slight acquaintance with Europe ; it is there-
fore natural that they should only admire such of their country-
men whose merit has shown forth with some eclat, riiis, in
other respects, is a proof that they already possess a character
truly national. Besides they candidly acknowledge a literary
superiority in Europe, which will certainly inspire them with a
wish to emulate it.
NOTE XVI.
The pictures painted in Europe before Raphael appeared,
may give some idea of those which are now pnKluced in Co-
lombia ; the design is incorrect, the figures want expression ;
not the least idea of perspective is to be found , and in general
no traces of imagination.
If in eloquence and poetry, the Americans cannot yet
pretend to surpass the Spaniards,* their compositions are at
least free from the trash which prevents the French writers who
preceded the reign of Louis XIV. from being read. Far from
resembling the preachers of that period, their priests introduce
much gravity and fervour in their sermons. With respect to
literature, the better sort of people in America has ixeii less
* The best poet of the republic is a .Spanish priest. I need not
observe that whenever distinguished persons are spoken of, it is the
principal inhabitants of Caracas, Bojrota, Quito and Guayaquil "nIv who
are designated ; since in the country a very corrupt .Spanisli is ^|>oktâ– n,
and even the greater part oC the Indian tribes do not understand il, but
speak each a diti'erent dialect.
2g 2
452 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
stationary than in the arts and sciences. The orators in the
chambers have rarely any dig-nity in their speeches, or any of
those touches which determine the resohition of an assembly.
Opportunities of producing a great effect are not however,
wanting, since the chamber is already divided into valley and
TMouwfam, (valle e montana) . But the parliamentary language
is not yet formed ; a member cannot be animated without falling
immediately into a passion ; I have even seen some represen-
tative weep with rage. There are some members who speak
very well impromptu. The vice president of he chamber of
representatives, a priest on the opposition side, has even been
very eloquent in a discussion respecting the patronage claimed
by government, but which it renounced for a time, for fear of
raising the clergy against them.
NOTE XVII.
Analysis of some minerals of Colombia, by Mr. Berthier,
Professsor at the Royal College of the mines. Cop-
per mineral of Moniquira.
It is a mixture of pyritous copper, of grey copper, of black
oxide copper, and carbonate green copper. It is very rich in
copper, but contains a very small quantity of silver. The
grey copper might be worked with great advantage, but the
copper it would produce would be impure and difficult to re-
fine. It is no doubt, for this reason, that the Indians only
melt down pyritous copper. It appears that the process they
pursue is much the same as that of Europe, for their Scoria
are chiefly composed of silex and oxide of iron like ours ; they
obtain besides but a very small quantity of copper.
Mineral of lead ofSogainoso. It is of carbonated lead, mix-
ed with some particles of plumbago, and scattered among quartz.
A similar kind is found in Europe. Only one trace of silver
is to be found in it.
NOTES AND I 1, 1.USTll ATI ON S. 4^3
Mineral of iron in the nfi<rftbourfiou(l oj' la Plata. It is of
oxidulatod magnetic iron, quito pure ami free from paupm-. It
contains nothing foreign, not even the least trace of tctain*.
NOTE XVlli.
In 1800, and 1807, 3,499,489 piastres were issued from the
mint of Sauta-F^. The mining system had doul)tless then ex-
perienced some improvements, for, from 17H9, to 179'», they had
not struck at Santa-F^ more then 8, 16 1,8620, piastres and at
Popayan from 1788, to 1794, 6,502,5420 piastres*. In general,
the prosperous years in America have been those of the commen-
cement of the XlXth century, this was the period when the con-
tinent received from the European peninsula several useful pri-
vileges, and in which the Spanish government, forgetting its
rigid political maxims, allowed the introduction ol books, ice.
and the publication of some newspapers. It is well known how
much these publications enUghtened the American colonics in
a short space of time, and promoted their emancipation.
NOTE XIX.
The cubical rock salt of Zipaquira is greyish, and coloured by a
bituineuous clay. It is exactly like the rock salts of I-lurope.
Hk.rthikr.
NOTE XX.
M. D. Humboldt in his work upon Mexicof estimates tho
importations into the united provinces of New Grenada and Ca-
* Humboldt Essai Politique, Chap. XI p. 201.
t Essai sur la Nouvelle Espagrne, Chap. xiii. p. 47-i.
454 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS,
racas, at 11,200,000 piastres, and the exportations, either in
agricultural produce, or metals, 9,000,oOO. The author. Pom-
bo, whom I have already had occasion to quote, has valued the
exportations of New Grenada at 2,500,000 piastres only ; he
thus divides them :
Piastres.
Exportation in agricultural produce, pearls,
platina, by the Atlantic 600,000
In gold and silver bars 1 ,350,000
In produce by Panama and Guayaquil 550,000
2,500,000
According to the same author the importations do not exceed
9,500,000 piastres.
Seiior Jove, one of the most enlightened members of the
ancient consulate of Caracas, gave, in a memoir sent in 1817
to the viceroy Samanon, the following estimate of the commerce
of Colombia :
An Approximate estimate of the Exportations of the Pro-
vinces of Venezuela, during the six years anterior to
1810.
Yearly
100,000 fanegas of cocoa, of 11 Oft
100,000 quintals of coffee
150,000ft of indigo
53,000 quintals of cotton
200,000 ox's hides
10,000 mules and horses
200,000 small hides
2,000 quintals of copper, from Guyana
10,000 quintals of Varinas tobacco
Other goods
Pias.
Reals Piastres.
® 20
2,000,000
12
1,200,000
1
2
187,500
15
75,000
1
200,000
32
320,000
2
50,000
24
48,000
20
200,000
119,500
4,400,000
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS, 455
The balance of commerce and agriculture being 1,000,000
in favour of this one.
In I809, the state of the commerce at Guayra and Cartha-
genawas published in the Semanario.* The iuforinations there
given are certainly not new, but they are interestinc: and even
useful, because the articles now fit for exportation are the same
at the present day as in the time of the iSpaniards. Besides,
documents of every kind are very scarce at present ; the jour-
nals, the memoirs of the viceroys, in which such valuables ma-
terials for American statistics were to be found, have all been
carried off or burnt ; the members of government are them-
selves in a great degree ignorant of the details of administra-
tion. It is therefore difficult to procure sure guides in order to
know well the financial and commercial situation of the coun-
try, and the greatest difficulty of all is to niake the contradic-
tory statements to agree, for, in the midst of party rage, some
exaggerate, and others depreciate the resources of govern-
ment.
General state of the Commerce of Gtiayra in the first six-
months q/"i809.
Importations from Spain. Piastres
In Spanish merchandize 215,434
Foreign ditto 58,7 so
274,204— '274,204
Importations from America.
Havannah sugar arrobas 3,173 C,347
Cuba wax 773 7,730
Sacks from Mexico 5,520 1,380
Piastres 96,500
Other productions from America 26,202
Europe 16, 181
other countries 1,(1 if.
158,936— 1 58,p3t>
* No. 45. The confusion in the Spanish orijrinal obliged nic to make
somecbauares in the sums of the ditterent additions, and (.. ..niit the t..hlr
of exportation
456 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Brought over 433,140
Importations from Europe. Piastres
Woollen stuflfs 13,369
Linen ditto 6o,333
Cotton ditto 325,242
Woollen hats 6,281 9,489
Silk ditto 2,262 12,466
Silks 15,568
Flour-barrels 5,798 57,983
Hard-ware 36,414
Provisions 34,674
Wine in casks arrobas 4,025 9,725
Wine in bottles dozens 2,414 4,504
Gold and silver specie 32,330
Different articles 11,838
623,935—623,935
Total of Importations 1,057,075
Annual Exportations of New Grenada prior to 1810.
Piastres Rls. Piastres.
1 0,000 fanegas of cocoa brought from the
vallies of Cucuta
6,000 quintals of coffee
6,000 quintals of cotton
12,000 load of coloured wood, of 250lfe
from Rio-Hacha
3,000 ditto from Santa-Martha
30,000 quintals of cotton from Carthagena 20
20,000 quintals of coloured wood
100,000 loads of cocoa (75ll5) from Guaya-
quil
10,000 loads (250115) of Loxa bark
20,000 ditto from Carthagena
carried over i,884,ooo
® 20
200,000
10
60,000
15
90,000
7
84,000
5
15,000
a 20
600,000
6
15,000
6
600,000
10
100,000
6
120,000
NUTKS ANU ILLUSTRATIONS.
Piastrcti Kits.
Brou-^lit over
6,OOOfl5 of platina from Choco*
Sundry producej-
4'»7
I'ijitlri-d
3G,0on
R0,00(»
Metals
2,0()(),0(K»
4,000,000
Revenues of New Grenada before in 10.
Piastres
Custom house duties 600,000
Alcabala 100,000
Farming of tobacco 300,000
400,000 buHs+ 100,000
Stamps 150,000
The mints 150,000
Indian tributes 50,000
Licences ioo,(»()o
1 ,550,000
Thus, according to the opinion of Seuor Jove, the reve-
nues of New Grenada never amounted, prior to 1 8 10, beyond
1 ,550,000 piastres ; although this estimate appears to me far
too small, yet, in speaking of the finances of Colombi.i, 1 have
* Now, that the exportation of this mineral is prohibited, it is not
worth more than from 3 to 4 piastres per lb, aud the same quantity i^
exported as formerly.
f Under this denomination is comprehended tlic sarHaparilla (2 real*
per load) cocoa butter, vanilla, vigon, and yarnish of Peru, tiie price of
which is from 8 to 10 reals per lb, and the quality of which, in abler hands
might be made to equal that of the varnish of China.
X The government of Colombia has forbidden the sale of bulls till the
pope determine to acknowledge the republic.
458 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
only valued them at 5 or 6,000,000 piastres, because, if the
sale of national property, and the obligation imposed upon the
clergy of contributing-, like the rest of the nation to the ex-
penses of the state, have augmented the riches of the govern-
ment ; on the other hand, the disasters incidental to a fourteen
years' war have ruined a number of resources which Spain for-
merly possessed.
We shall conclude these investigations by comparing the
relative importance of the Colombian and Mexican commerce.
Balance of the Carthagena Trade.
Importations from Spain. Exportations for Spain.
Years 1802 983,885 piastres. 3,082,819 — 2
1803 971,863 1,554,385 — I
1804 903,644 2,468,578 — 7
2,859,392 7,105,783 — 2
On this amoimt should be estimated inl
produce •'
Money 4,752,232
Balance of the Trade of Vera Cruz, during the same Years.
Importations from Spain. Importations from America.
20,390,859 1,607,729
18,493,289 1,373,428
14,906,060 1,619,682
53,790,208 4,600,839
4,600,839
58,391,047
V
""TES AN,. II,,,„,T„,,,,„N..
\ Expoi-tations for Spain. Exp«it„(io„„ ,.,, ,,„. ,.^^,^
oo ^^^ "•' Airii-rica.
33,866,219
12,017,072
IS, 033, 37/
63,916,662
10,471,505
74,388,167
^â– â– >8I,14K
2,46.'>,8.»G
•'^.lo^.'il I
'<M7 1,.jOi
Although the ancient vice royalties of Mexico and New-
Grenada are both favoured by nature, equally fertiloand rich in
rnetals, agriculture abandoned in Colombia to the care i»f the
negroes, and the working of the mines being directed by ron-
summate ignorance, ai-e the causes of the prodigious contrasl
presented by two countries governed now in precisely the same
manner, of an extent almost equal, and whose population only
differs by the half.
NOTE XXI.
The greater part of the Spanish colonies, with the excep-
tion of the maritime towns and the capital cities, fre<|uented by
strangers, are scarcely more enlightened, with reference to arts
and industry, than Europe was in the time of Ferdinand and
Isabella. They present a living picture of the fifteenth cen-
tury ; the traits of this age are again recognized in the manners,
habits, and customs of the inhabitants ; the national costume
recalls that distant period to the memory ; industry is as rudi-
as it was in those days. I have, however, mentioned some edi-
fices which display taste and a remarkable ability ; thosr
deserve the greater attention, as it is almost impossible to con-
ceive the labour they cost. In 1814, when building the ca-
thedral of Santa-F^, the architect was first obliged to instruct
some young people in the mode of cutting stones, afterwards iii
the method of making a great number of tools and machines till
460 NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
then unknown. The paving of the streets required equal time
and labour, for the workmen only used iron pijicers about a
foot long, had bags instead of wheelbarrows, and bits of leather
for shovels. It is the same in every other kind of work ; the
most simple tools are either not to be had, or are ill made, and,
"-' Insufficient to perfect works truly beautiful.
NOTE XXII.
The importations of the English into the whole of America
amount annually to £10,476,791 sterling-.
THE END.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY G. SCHULZE,
13, POLAND bTREET.
LNlVERSin" OF C\UFORNi- -
OF CAt^^^
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r
