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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT  LOS  ANGELES 


•z. 


LIST   OF   EMBELLISHMENTS  AND   MAPS 

CONTAINED  IN 

yOLUME  THE  SECOND. 


TO  SERVE  AS  DIRECTIONS  TO  THE  BINDER. 

Map  of  the  Antiquities  of  the  Crimea   .   .    .to  face  the  Title. 
Chart  of  the  Bay  oiAktiar,  or  Ctenus  of  Strata,  to  face  p.  202. 


LIST  OF  THE  VIGNETTES     , 

/JV  rOLUME  THE  SECOND. 


THE  VIGNETTES  ARE  ENGRAVED  ON  WOOD,  BY  AUSTIN. 


CHAP.  I. 

No.  Page 

1.  Wretched  Appearance  of  the  Post-houses  in  Kuban 

Tuhtary 1 

CHAP.  II. 

2.  Castle,  represented  on  a  Greek  Medal,  of  very  high 

antiquity 51 

CHAP.  III. 

3.  Top  of  a  Sarcophagus  at  Yenikale 97 

CHAP.  IV. 

4.  Profile  of  Professor  Pallas,   from  a  Drawing  by 

E.  D.  Clarke 14-3 

CHAP.  V. 

5.  Insects    of   the   Crimea,    from    the   original,   by 

Angelica  Clarke 196 


. 
' 


VIGNETTES  TO  THE  SECOND  VOLUME. 


Page 


No.  CHAP'   VI. 

6.  Vessels  of  Terra  Cotta,  preserving  antique  forms, 

in  use  among  the  Tahlars 231 

CHAP.  VII. 

7.  Map  of  the  Point  and  Bay  of  Phanari,  shewing  the 

Site  of  the  older  of  the  two  Cities  of  the  Cherso- 
nesians,  in  the  Heradeotic  Peninsula      ....  273 

CHAP.  VIII. 

8.  The  Tomb  of  Howard 301 

CHAP.  IX. 

9.  Medal  of  Olbiopolis 351 

CHAP.  X. 

10.  Profiles  of  a  Russian  and  a  Greek;  from  a  Drawing 

by  E.  D.  Clarke 382 

CHAP.  XI. 

11.  Chart  of  the  Turkish  Harbour  of  Ineada,  in  the 

Black  Sea  .  422 


GENERAL 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS 

TO  PART  THE  FIRST, 
VOLUME    THE   SECOND. 


CHAP.  I. 
P.  i. 

JOURNEY  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY,  TO  THE 
FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA. 

Relays  for  Horses — River  AE — Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea — 
Cause  of  their  Migration  —  How  distinguished  from  Don 
Cossacks,  and  from  Russians — Wild  Fowl — Singular  Species 
of  Mole — Cherubinovshoy — Plants — Rate  of  Travelling — 
Tumuli — Stragglers  from  the  Army — View  of  the  Caucasian 
Mountains — Capital  of  the  TCHERNOMORSKI — Manners  of 
the  People  —  their  Dress  and  External  Appearance  —  Visit 
from  the  Ataman — Causes  of  the  War  in  Cu  cassia — Passage 
of  the  Kulan — Advance  of  the  Cossack  Army — Arrival  of  the 
Pasha  of  Anapa — Ceremony  of  concluding  the  Peace  —  Cir~ 
cassian  Princes  —  Peasants  of  Circassia  —  Dances  of  the 
Circassians — Language — LESGI — Remarkable  instance  of 
Bravery  in  a  Circassian — Circassian  Women  —  Commerce 
with  the  Tchernomorski — Skill  in  Horsemanship — State  of 
Travelling  in  Caucasus. 

CHAP.  II. 

P.  51. 

JOURNEY  ALONG  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA, 
TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS. 

Quarantine — Second  Excursion  into  Circassia — Departure  from 
Ekaterinedara — Produce  of  the  Land — Division  of  the  River 
VOL.   II.  A 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

— Mosquitoes — General  Appearance  of  the  Circassian  Terri- 
tory— Watch-Towers — CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS — Temrook — 
Text  of  Strabo  and  Pliny  reconciled — Fortress  and  Ruins — 
Sienna — Remarkable  Tomb — Antiquity  of  Arches — Milesian 
Gold  Bracelet  —  Origin  of  Temples — CEPOE  —  Fortress  of 
Taman  —  Taman  —  Ruins  of  Phanagoria  — Tmutaracan  — 
Amphitheatre — Other  Remains  — Prekla  Volcano — Inscrip- 
tions at  Taman. 

CHAP.  III. 

P.  97- 
FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS,  TO  CAFFA. 

Passage  across  the  Straits — YENIKALE — Modern  Greeks — 
Marble  Soros — Singular  antient  Sepulchre — Pharos  ofMithra- 
dates — Medals  of  the  Bosporus — Ruins — KERTCHY — Tomb 
of  Mithradates — View  of  the  Cimmerian  Straits — Antiquities 
of  Kertchy — Account  of  a  Stranger  who  died  there — Fortress 
— Church — Havoc  made  by  the  Russians  —  Cause  of  the 
obscurity  involving  the  antient  Topography  of  the  Crimea  — 
Departure  from  Kertchy  — 'Antient  Vallum  —  Locusts  — 
Venomous  Insects  —  Gipsies  —  Cattle  —  Tahtars  —  Vallum  of 
ASANDER — Arrival  at  CAFFA. 

CHAP.  IV. 

P.  143. 
FROM  CAFFA,  TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

Cafta  in  its  present  State — Barbarous  Conduct  of  the  Russians 
— Inscriptions — Distribution  of  the  Town — Departure  from 
Caffa — Stara  Crim — Ruined  Baths — Villa  of  the  Empress — 
Antient  Vallum  —  Remarkable  Mountain — Karasulazar — 
Akmetchet — Professor  Pallas — Unwholesome  Situation  of  the 
Town  —  Mus  Jaculus,  or  Jerboa — Observations  of  Bochart 
and  others  upon  that  Animal  —  BAKTCHESERAI  —  Novel 
Appearance  of  the  City — Fountains — Destruction  caused  by 
the  Russian  Troops — Causes  which  led  to  the  Deposition  and 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTb. 

Death  of  the  late  Khan — Consequences  of  the  Capture  of  the 
Crimea — Palace  of  the  Khans — Preparations  made  for  the 
Reception  of  the  late  Empress — Seraglio — Description  of  the 
Char  em — Visit  to  the  Fortress  of  Dschoufoutkale — Anecdote 
of  an  English  Servant — Extraordinary  Ring — Singular  Ex- 
cavation— Jewish  Cemetery — Account  of  the  Sect  o/'Karai'. 

CHAP.  V. 

P.  196. 

FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA,  TO  THE 
HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS. 

Tarantula  Spider — Departure  from  Baktcheserai — CTENUS  of 
Stralo — AKTIAR — Caverns  of  Inkerman — Mephitic  Air — 
Cippus  of  Theagenes — Antient  Geography,  and  Antiquities 
of  the  Minor  Peninsula  —  EUPATORIUM — CHERSONESUS — 
Parthenium  of  Formaleoni — Monastery  of  St.  George  — 
Balaclava  —  Genoese  Fortress  —  Geology  of  the  Crimea  — 
Extraordinary  Geological  Phcenomena — Form  of  an  antient 
Greek  Town — Manners  of  the  People. 

CHAP.  VI. 

P.  231. 

FROM  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS,  ALONG  THE 
SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

Valley  of  Baidar — Domestic  Habits  and  Manners  of  the  Tahtars 
— Passage  of  the  Merdveen  —  Kutchuckoy  —  Plants  and 
Minerals — Transitions — CRIU-METOPON- — Aloupka — Other 
Villages  on  the  Coast — Country  letween  Kutchuckoy  and 
Sudak — Tahtar  School — Vestiges  of  the  Genoese  Language 
— Ruins  of  a  Greek  Monastery — AI'VDAGH  Promontory 
— Parthenit — Alusta-Tchetirdagh,  or  MONS  TRAPEZUS — 
Shuma  —  Position  of  the  Crimean  Mountains  —  Derykeuy 
— Mahmoud  Sultan — Return  to  Akmetchet — Marriage  Cere- 
mony of  the  Greek  Church  —  Jewish  Wedding — Military 
Force  of  the  Crimea — SuvoRor. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 
CHAP.  VII. 

P.  273. 

SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE  MINOR  PENINSULA  OF 
THE  HERACLEOT^E. 

Professor  Pallas  accompanies  the  Author — Mankoop — Ruins  of 
the  Fortress — Cape  of  the  Winds — Shulu — Fuller  s- earth 
Pits- — Manufacture  of  Kejf-kil — Isthmian  Wall — AiaBurun 
—Coins  of  Vladimir — Alexiano*s  Chouter — Point  and  Bay  of 
Phanari — Ruins  of  the  old  Chersonesus  of  Strabo — Valley 
of  Tchorgona — Danger  of  the  Climate — Tahtar  Nobles  — 
Russian  Recruit — Salvia  Hablitziana — Return  to  Akmetchet* 


CHAP.  VIIL 

P.  301. 

FROM  THE  CRIMEA,  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 
TO  NICHOLAEF. 

Journey  to  Koslof —  Result  of  the  Expedition  —  Return  to 
Akmetchet — Marshal  B'ilerstein — Departure  from  Akmetchet 
— Perecop — Salt  Harvest — Nagay  Tahtars — Rana  variabilis 
'—General  Survey  of  the  Crimea — Country  north  of  the 
Isthmus — Facility  of  travelling  in  Russia — Banditti  of  the 
Ukraine — Anecdote  of  a  desperate  Robber  —  Intrepid  Con- 
duct of  a  Courier — Caravans — Biroslaf—Cherson — Burial 
ofPotemkin — Recent  disposal  of  his  body  —  Particulars  of 
the  Death  of  Howard  —  Order  of  his  Funeral  —  Tomb  of 
Howard —  Nicholaef. 

CHAP.  IX. 

P.  351. 
FROM  NICHOLAEF  TO  ODESSA. 

Remains  of  Olbiopolis  —  Inscriptions  —  Medals  —  Admiral 
Priestman  —  Mineralized  Shells  —  Observations  upon  the 
Odessa  Limestone  —  Consequences  which  resulted  from  the 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 

Opening  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus — Conduct  of  the  Emperor 
respecting  Odessa — Number  of  discarded  Officers — Usurious 
Practices  of  the  Sovereign — Further  Account  of  Odessa  — 
Account  of  the  Passage  ly  Land  to  Constantinople — Prepa- 
ration for  sailing  from  Odessa. 

CHAP.  X. 

P.  382. 

VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA,  TO  THE  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA 
IN  TURKEY. 

Contrast  between  a  Russian  and  a  Greek — Tourneforfs  erro- 
neous Account  of  the  Black  Sea — Extraordinary  Temperature 
of  the  Climate — English  Commerce  in  the  Black  Sea  — 
— Fortress  of  Odessa — Departure  for  Turkey — Island  of 
LEUCE — Accounts  of  it  ly  Antient  Writers — Mouths  of  the 
Danube  —  White  Dolphins  —  Observations  on  board  the 
Moderato — Dreadful  Tempest — Harbour  of  Ineada — Plants 
— Appearance  of  the  Turks — Mountaineers — Basaltic  Pillars 
— Theory  of  their  Origin. 

CHAP.  XI. 

P.  422. 

FROM  THE  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA  IN  THE  BLACK  SEA, 
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Voyage  to  Constantinople — Entrance  of  the  Canal — Return  to 
the  Cyanean  Isles — Geological  Phcenomena — Votive  Altar — 
Singular  Breccia — Origin  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus — Anti- 
quities— Of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Urius,  and  the  place  called 
Hieron — Probable  Situation  of  Darius  ivhen  he  surveyed  the 
Euxine — Approach  to  Constantinople — Disgusting  Appear- 
ance  of  the  Streets —Arrival  at  Galata — Peru—  State  of 
Turkish  Commerce. 


ADDITIONAL  NOTES,  P.  451— 455. 


GENERAL  STATEMENT  OF  CONTENTS. 
APPENDIX,  No.  I. 

P.  457. 
Suvorofs  Military  Instructions  for  the  use  of  the  Russian  Army. 

No.  II. 

P.  469. 
Account  of  English  Commerce  in  the  Black  Sea. 

No.  III. 

P.  488. 

Extract  from  the  Log-Book  of  the  Moderate,  giving  an  account 
of  the  Author's  Pay  age  in  the  Black  Sea. 

No.  IV. 

P.  504. 

List  of  all  the  Plants  collected  in  the  Crimea,  principally  in 
company  with  Professor  Pallas ;  alphabetically  arranged. 

No.  V. 
P.  513. 

Temperature  of  the  Atmosphere,  according  to  Diurnal  Olser- 
vations  made  during  the  Journey,  with  a  corresponding 
Statement  of  the  Temperature  in  England  during  the  same 
period. 

No.  VI. 

P.  522. 

Names  of  Places  visited  in  the  Author  s  Route ;  with  their 
Distances  from  each  other,  in  Russian  Versts,  and  in  English 
Miles. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST,  P.  525,  &c. 


CHAP.  I. 


JOURNEY  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY,  TO  THE 
FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA. 

Relays  for  Horses — River  AE — Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea 
— Cause  of  their  Migration — How  distinguished  from 
Don  Cossacks,  and  from  Russians— Wild  Fowl — Sin- 
gular Species  of  Mole — Cherulinovskoy — Plants — Rate 
of  Travelling — Tumuli — Stragglers  from  the  Army — 
View  of  the  Caucasian  Mountains  —  Capital  of  the 
TCHERNOMORSKI — Manners  of  the  People  —  their 
Dress  and  External  Appearance — Vint  from  the  Ataman 
—  Causes  of  the  War  in  Circassia  —  Passage  of  the 
Kuban — Advance  of  the  Cossack  Army — Arrival  of  the 
Pasha  of  Anapa — Ceremony  of  concluding  the  Peace — 
Circassian  Princes — Peasants  of  Circassia — Dances  of  the 
Circassians — Language — LESGI — Remarkable  instance 


2  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

of  Bravery  in  a  Circassian — Circassian  Women — Com- 
merce with  the  Tchernomorski — Skill  in  Horsemanship 
— State  of  Travelling  in  Caucasus. 

CRAP.    THE  whole  territory  from  the  Sea  of  Azof  to 
v    -»—  ;  the  Kuban,  and  thence  following  the  course   of 
that  river  towards  its  embouchure,   is   a  con- 
tinued  desert,   and    more    desolate  than   the 
steppes  upon  the  European  side  of  the  MJEOTIS. 
Rei«ys  for   A  few  huts,  rudely  constructed  of  reeds   and 

Horses. 

.  narrow  flags,  stationed  at  certain  distances, 
serve  to  supply  horses  for  the  post.  Such 
wretched  hovels  offer  neither  accommodation 
nor  food :  they  are  often  destitute  even  of  any 
thatched  covering  as  a  roof;  and  exhibit  merely 
an  inclosure,  where  the  horses  remain  their 
stated  time,  standing  in  mud  or  in  dung.  The 
persons  who  have  the  care  of  them,  make  their 
appearance,  when  the  traveller  arrives,  from  a 
hole  in  the  ground;  having  burrowed,  and 
formed  a  little  subterraneous  cave,  in  which 
they  live,  like  the  bobacs,  moles,  and  other 
tenants  of  the  wilderness1. 

River  AE.        We  left  Margaritovskoy  on  the  fifth  of  July, 
admiring  the  fine  view  that  was  presented  of 


(1)  The  slight  sketch,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  this  Chapter,  may 
serve  to  afford  a  correct  representation  of  those  relay*. 


KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

the  Sea  of  Azof;  and  travelled  towards  the 
AE,  one  of  the  several  rivers  mentioned  by 
Ptolemy,  in  this  part  of  Asiatic  Sarmatia,  but  not 
easily  identified  with  any  of  the  antient  names 
enumerated  by  him.  Ae,  in  the  Tahtar  lan- 
guage, signifies  good ;  and  the  name  is  said  to 
have  been  applied  to  the  river,  because  its 
banks  afford  a  favourable  pasture  for  sheep; 
but  the  water  is  brackish,  and  impregnated 
with  salt. 

During  the  first  thirty-six  versts*  of  this 
day's  journey,  we  found  Grecian  or  Malo-Russian 
inhabitants.  Their  number  in  this  district  does 
not  exceed  seven  hundred  persons;  yet  a 
proof  of  their  industry  and  of  their  superior 
importance,  as  tenants  of  the  land,  is  offered 
in  the  fact  of  their  affording  to  their  landlord 
an  average  payment  of  no  less  a  sum  annually 
than  ten  thousand  roubles.  The  boundary  of 
their  little  territory  is  formed  by  the  river  AE 
towards  the  south,  and  the  Sea  of  Azof  to  the 
north.  The  river  AE  separates  them  from  a 
different  and  very  extraordinary  race  of  men, 
whose  history  and  country  we  are  now  pre- 
pared to  consider ;  namely,  the  TCHERNOMORSKI, 


(2)  Twenty-four  English  miles. 
VOL.  H.  B 


KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

or  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea ;  more  dreadful  tales 
of  whom  are  told  to  intimidate  travellers,  than 
even  the  misrepresentations  circulated  in  Russia 
concerning  their  brethren,  the  Cossacks  of  the 
Don.  We  had  been  directed  to  augment  our 
escort,  and  consequently  were  always  preceded 
by  a  troop  of  armed  Cossack  cavalry.  It  is 
true,  the  figures  of  those  who  composed  the 
body  of  our  own  guard  did  not  appear  very 
conciliating ;  but  we  never  had  reason  to  com- 
plain, either  of  their  conduct,  or  of  their  dis- 
honesty. 

The  Tchernomorski  are  a  brave,  but  rude 
and  warlike  people ;  possessing  little  of  the  re- 
finements of  civilized  society,  although  much 
inward  goodness  of  heart.  They  are  ready 
to  shew  the  greatest  hospitality  to  strangers 
Cause  of  who  solicit  their  aid.  Their  original  appella- 

their  Mi- 
gration,      tion  was  ZAPOROGZTZSI,  according  to  the  most 

exact  orthography  given  to  us  by  Mr.  Kova- 
lenshy  of  Taganrog;  a  term  alluding  to  their 
former  situation,  "  beyond  the  cataracts  "  of  the 
Dnieper.  From  the  banks  of  this  river  they 
were  removed,  by  the  late  Empress  CATHERINE, 
to  those  of  the  Kuban,  in  order  to  repel  the 
incursions  of  the  Circassians  and  Tahtars  from 
the  Turkish  frontier.  Their  removal  was  ori- 
ginally planned  by  Potemkm,  but  did  not  take 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA.  5 

place  until  about  nine  years  previous  to  our  £HAP. 
arrival  in  the  country.  Their  society  upon 
the  Dnieper  originally  consisted  of  refugees  and 
deserters  from  all  nations,  who  had  formed  a 
settlement  in  the  marshes  of  that  river1.  Storch 
affirms,  that  there  was  hardly  a  language  in 
Europe  but  might  be  found  in  use  among  this 
singular  people4. 

In  consequence  of  the  service  they  rendered 
to  Russia,  in  her  last  war  with  Turkey, 
CATHERINE,  by  an  uhase  of  the  second  of  June 
17Q2,  ceded  to  them  the  Peninsula  of  Taman> 
and  all  the  countries  between  the 


(1)  "  These  men  originally  were  deserters  and  vagabonds  from  all 
nations,  who  had  taken  refuge  in  the  marshy  islands  of  the  Dnieper. 
At  the  foundation  of  Cherson,  they  were  chased  from  their  homes,  and 
took  shelter  at  the  mouth  of  the  Danube,  still  preserving  their  charac- 
ter of  fishermen  and  pirates.     Potettikin  offering  them  pay  and  lands, 
they  returned  to  the  side  of  Russia,  and  did  great  service  in  the  second 
Turkish  war.    They  received  as  a  reward  the  country  newly  conquered 
from  the  Kuban  Tartars.     They  hold  their  lands  by  the  same  tenure, 
and  enjoy  nearly  the  same  privileges,  as  the  Don  Cossacks.    They  are, 
however,  much  poorer,'  and   more  uncivilized,    and  never  quit  their 
country,  where  indeed  they  have  sufficient  employment.    They  receive 
no  pay,  except  an  allowance  of  rye ;  and  dress  themselves  at  their  own 
expense,  and  in  whatever  colours  they  choose,  without  any  regard  to 
uniformity.     The  officers,  for  the  most  part,  wear  red  boots,  which  is 
their  only  distinction.     They  deal  largely  in  cattle,  and  have  a  barter 

of  salt  for  corn  with  the  Circassians They  are  generally  called 

thieves.     We  found  them,  however,  very  honest,  where  their  point  of 
honour  was  touched,  very  good-natured,  and,  according  to  their  scanty 
means,  hospitable."  fftber's  MS.  Journal. 

(2)  Storch,  Tableau  de  Russ.  torn.  I.  p.  62. 

B    2 


;  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP,  the  Sea  of  Azof ,  as  far  as  the  rivers  AE  and 
LABA;  an  extent  of  territory  comprehending 
upwards  of  one  thousand  square  miles'.  They 
had  also  allotted  to  them  a  constitution  in 
all  respects  similar  to  that  of  the  Don  Cos- 
saaks,  and  received  the  appellation  of  "  Cos- 
sacks of  the  Black  Sea"  They  were,  more- 
over, allowed  the  privilege  of  choosing  an 
Ataman;  but  their  numbers  have  considerably 
diminished.  They  could  once  bring  into  the 
field  an  army  of  forty  thousand  effective  cavalry. 
At  present,  their  number  of  troops  does  not 
exceed  fifteen  thousand.  Upon  their  coming 
to  settle  in  Kuban  Tahtary,  it  was  first  neces- 
sary to  expel  the  original  inhabitants,  who 
were  a  tribe  as  ferocious  as  the  Circassians. 
Part  of  these  were  driven  to  the  Deserts  of 
Nagay,  and  the  steppes  north  of  the  Isthmus  of 
the  Crimea:  the  rest  fled  over  the  Kuban  to 
Cir cassia,  and  became  subject  to  the  princes  who 
inhabit  CAUCASUS.  At  the  time  we  traversed 
Kuban,  the  Tchernomorski  occupied  the  whole 
country  from  the  AE  to  the  Kuban,  and  from  the 
Black  Sea  to  the  frontier  of  the  Don  Cossacks. 

The  Russians  speak  of  them  as  of  a  band  of 
lawless  banditti.     We  soon  found  that  they  had 

(l)  Storch,  Tableau  de  Russ.  torn.  I.  p.  65. 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

been   much  misrepresented;    although,  among 
a  people  consisting  of  such  various  nations  and 
characters,  we   certainly  could   not  have  tra- 
velled without  an  escort.     The   road,    if   the 
plain  unaltered   earth   may  admit  of  such  an 
appellation,  was  covered  with  stragglers,  either 
going  to   or  coming  from   the   scene   of  war. 
Their    figure,    dress,    and  manner,  were  un- 
like any  thing   seen  in  Europe;    and   however 
good  the  opinion  may  be  that  we  still  enter- 
tain of  this  people,  it  were  trusting  too  much 
to  mere   opinion,   to   advise  any   traveller   to 
venture  among  them  unprepared  to  encounter 
danger,  where  the  temptation  to  commit  acts  of 
hostility,  and  the  power  of  doing  so,  exist  so 
eminently.     They  do  not  resemble  the  Cossacks  Distm- 
of  the  Don,  in  habits,  in  disposition,  or  in  any  lom  the 
other  characteristic.  The  Cossacks  of  the  'Don  all  sa°cl$.  °* 
wear  the  same  uniform  :  those  of  the  Black  Sea 
wear  any  habit  suiting  their  caprice.     The  Don 
Cossack  is  mild,  affable,  and  polite :  the  Black- 
Sea  Cossack  is  blunt,  and  even  rude,  from  the 
boldness  and  martial  hardihood  of  his  manner. 
If  poor,  he  appears  clad  like  a  primeval  shep- 
herd, or  the  wildest  mountaineer;  at  the  same 
time  having   his   head  bald,  except   one  long 
braided  lock  from  the  crown :    this  is  placed 
behind  the  right  ear.     If  rich,  he  is  very  lavish 
in  the  costliness  of  his  dress,   which  consists 


KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

of  embroidered  velvet,  and  the  richest  silks  and 
cloths  of  every  variety  of  colour;  wearing  at 
the  same  time  short  cropped  hair,  giving  to  his 
head  the  appearance  of  the  finest  busts  of  the 
antient  Romans.  The  distinctive  mark  of  a 
Black-Sea  Cossack,  borne  by  the  lower  order 
among  them,  of  a  braided  lock  from  the  crown 
of  the  head,  passing  behind  the  right  ear,  is 
retained  even  by  the  officers  ;  but  it  is  concealed 
by  the  younger  part  of  them,  with  very  artful 
foppery,  among  their  dark  hair.  They  seemed 
ashamed  to  have  it  noticed ;  although,  like  a 
relic  on  the  breast  of  a  Catholic,  it  is  pre- 
served even  with  religious  veneration;  and 
there  was  not  one  of  them  who  would  not 
sooner  have  parted  with  his  life,  than  with  this 
badge  of  the  tribe  to  which  he  belonged.  The 
custom  is  of  Polish  origin :  but  in  this  part  of 
the  world,  it  serves  like  a  sign  among  Free- 
masons ;  and  it  distinguishes  the  Tchernomorski 
Cossack  from  the  Cossack  of  the  Don,  as  well  as 
from  every  other  tribe  of  Cossacks  in  the  Russian 
empire.  The  Tchernomorski  are  more  cheerful 
and  noisy  than  the  Don  Cossacks ;  turbulent  in 
their  mirth ;  vehement  in  conversation ;  some- 
what querulous ;  and,  if  not  engaged  in  dispute, 
are  generally  laughing  or  singing.  The  Cossacks 
of  the  Don  hold  this  people  in  little  estimation, 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

considering  them  as  an  inferior  band  of  plun- 
derers when  in  actual  service.  But  it  may 
be  said,  the  Tchernomorski  entertain  the  same 
sentiments  with  regard  to  them ;  making  re- 
marks similar  to  those  urged  by  the  unedu- 
cated and  lower  class  of  Englishmen  concerning 
foreigners ;  such  as,  that  "  one  Cossack  of  the 
Black  Sea  is  a  match  for  any  three  of  his  neigh- 
bours of  the  Don."  The  Russian  regards  both 
with  aversion,  and  affects  to  consider  them  as 
beneath  his  notice,  and  as  unworthy  of  his 
society,  for  no  other  assignable  reason  than 
ignorance  or  envy.  The  Cossack  is  rich ;  the  ci"!flci* 

J  distm- 

Russian  is  poor.     The  Cossack  is  high-Blinded ;   fuishl 

from 

the  Russian  is  abject.  The  Cossack  is,  for  the  sians- 
most  part,  clean  in  his  person,  honourable, 
valiant,  often  well-informed,  and  possesses,  with 
his  loftiness  of  soul,  a  very  noble  stature :  the 
Russian  is  generally  filthy,  unprincipled,  das- 
tardly, always  ignorant,  and  is  rarely  dignified 
by  any  elevation  of  mind  or  body'. 


(l)  When  Mr.  Heler  was  in  this  country,  his  friend  Mr.  7J?torn(on, 
the  companion  of  histra\els,  lost  his  gun  ;  and  they  IcftEkatcrinedara, 
supposing  it  to  be  stolen  ;  as  travellers  in  Russia  are  constantly  liable 
to  thefts  of  every  description.  To  their  great  surprise,  however,  when 
they  arrived  at  Taman,  the  gun  \vas  brought  to  them.  An  express 
Jjad  been  sent  after  them,  who  had  travelled  the  whole  distance  from 
Ekaterinedara  to  Taman,  to  restore  the  gun  to  its  owner;  and  the 

person 


hed 


Rus- 


10  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

But  it  is  proper  to  attend  more  closely  to  the 
detail  of  the  journey.  At  thirty-six  versts' 
distance  from  Margaritovskoy  we  came  to  the 
river  AE  ',  called  Yea  by  the  Turks,  and  leia  by 
the  Germans,  a  boundary  of  the  territory  pos- 
sessed by  the  Tchernomorski.  Just  before  we 
crossed  this  river,  we  passed  a  fortress  of 
considerable  magnitude,  rudely  constructed  of 
earth,  and  surmounted  by  a  few  pieces  of 
artillery.  This  fortress  was  originally  a  depot 
of  stores,  and  a  barrier  against  the  Tahtars. 
It  is  still  garrisoned.  The  Commandant,  as  we 
changed  horses  at  Aeskoy,  gave  us  news  of  the 
war  to  which  we  were  travelling.  From  him 
we  learned,  that  the  allied  army  of  Cossacks, 
Sclavonians,  and  Russians,  had  crossed  the  Kulan, 
and  had  taken  several  Circassian  villages  ;  that 
many  Circassian  Princes  had  applied  in  person 
to  the  Tchernomorski  for  peace ;  that  the  Pasha 
of  Anapa  had  announced  his  intention  of  acting 
as  mediator,  and  of  repairing  to  the  Tcher- 


person  employed  to  convey  it  refused  to  accept  any  reward  for  his 
labour.  Such  facts  as  these  require  no  comment.  The  character  of 
the  Cossacks,  and  their  superiority  to  the  Russians  in  every  qualification 
that  can  adorn  human  nature,  is  completely  established. 

(1)  This  river  is  the  Rhombitcs  Major  of  Stralo.  The  trade  of 
salting  fish  is  carried  on  alon^  the  coasts  of  the  Sea  if  Azof ,  as  in  the 
most  antient  times. 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

nomorski  capital,  EKATEKINEDARA.  He  cau- 
tioned us  to  be  upon  our  guard  concerning 
the  Tchernomorski,  as  the  route  would  now  be 
filled  with  deserters,  and  persons  of  every 
description  from  the  army:  and,  above  all 
things,  he  advised  us  to  increase  the  number 
of  our  guard,  lest  treachery  might  be  expe- 
rienced from  the  members  of  our  escort ;  "  from 
whom,"  he  said,  "  as  much  might  be  apprehended 
as  from  the  Circassians" 


We  observed  several  sorts  of  game  in  this  wad  Fowl, 
day's  journey,  particularly  the  wild  turkey,  the 
pheasant,  some  wild  swans,  and  wild  ducks; 
also  a  sort  of  fowl  as  large  as  a  capon. 
In  the  steppes  we  caught  a  very  uncommon 
species  of  mole.  To  us  it  was  entirely  new ;  singular 

Species  of 

although  perhaps  it  may  have  been  the  animal  Mole. 
mentioned  in  the  Journal  des  Savans  Foyageurs, 
as  known  in  Russia  under  the  appellation  of 
slepez*.  It  seemed  totally  blind ;  not  having 
the  smallest  mark  of  any  eye  or  optic  nerve. 
Its  head  was  broad,  and  quite  flat,  like  that  of 


(2)  Gmelin  considered  it  as  an  intermediate  link  between  the  mouse 
and  the  mole;  for  although,  like  the  mole,  it  burrows,  its  food  is 
confined  entirely  to  substances  which  it  finds  upon  the  soil.  See  Journ- 
des  Sav.  Voy.  p.  151. 


12  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP,  an  otter ;  its  under  jaw  being  armed  with  two 
<— -v — '  very  formidable  tusks :  with  these,  when  caught, 
it  gnashes  against  and  grates  its  upper  teeth. 
It  is  to  the  highest  degree  fierce,  and,  for  so 
small  an  animal,  remarkably  intimidating;  for 
although  it  will  not  turn  out  of  the  way  while 
on  its  march,  it  bites  and  tears  whatsoever  it 
encounters.  It  is  of  a  pale  ash  colour ;  and, 
with  the  exception  of  the  head,  much  like  the 
common  mole. 

ckerubi-  Passing  the  AE,  we  entered  the  territory  of 
the  Tchernomorski :  proceeding  about  four  miles 
farther,  we  arrived  at  Cherubinovskoy ,  a  wretched 
village,  built  of  reeds,  but  containing  two  or 
three  paltry  shops.  As  we  journeyed  from  this 
place,  the  post-houses  were  constructed  accord- 
ing to  the  description  given  in  the  beginning  of 
this  Chapter1.  They  were  totally  destitute  of 
any  security  from  the  weather,  consisting  only 
of  a  few  bundles  of  reeds  and  flags,  loosely 
put  together,  and  liable  to  be  scattered  by  the 
slightest  wind.  The  wonder  is,  how  cattle  can 
possibly  be  preserved  in  such  places  during 
the  winter  season,  which  is  sometimes  extremely 
severe.  We  observed  several  sledges  for  tra- 


Sec  the  fignelte. 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA.  13 

veiling  over  the  snow:  in  these,  some  of  the 
persons  waiting  to  supply  the  relays  had  con- 
structed their  beds. 

On  the  sixth  of  July,  we  observed  nothing 
but  continual  steppes,  covered  with  beautiful  and 
luxuriant  flowers.  Among  the  tallest  and  most 
shewy  plants  appeared  the  dark  blue  blossoms  Plants. 
of  the  Pipers  Bug  loss,  or  Echium  altissimum  of 
Jacquin,  and  Italicum  of  Linnceus.  The  Statice 
trygono'ides,  not  known  to  Linnteus,  grew  in 
abundance ;  it  is  common  over  all  Kuban  Tah- 
tary :  also  those  beautiful  plants,  Iris  desertorum, 
and  Dianthus  Carthusianorum.  We  were  of  course 
busied  in  making  additions  to  our  herbary ;  and 
the  Note  subjoined  will  enumerate  the  principal 
part  of  our  acquisition2.  Mosquitoes  began  to 
be  numerous,  and  were  very  troublesome.  The 
heat  at  the  same  time  was  great ;  the  mercury 
remaining  as  high  as  90°  of  Fahrenheit,  when  the 


(2)  A  new  species  of  Calendula;  also  of  Ranunculus,  and  Galega — 
Crambe  Tahtarica  —  Cerinthe  minor — Antirrhinum  genistifollum  — 
Anthcmis  millefoliata — Lathyrus  tuberosus — Symphytum  consolidum> — 
Salvia  nemorosa — Galium  rubio'ides — Phlomis  tuberosa — Xeranl/iemum 
annuum,  in  great  abundance — Nigella  Damascena — //stragalus  tenui- 
folius.  Others,  well  known  in  Britain,  were,  Lesser  Meadow  Rue, 
Thalictrum  minus — Cockle,  Agrostemma  Githago — Tansy,  Tanace- 
tum  vulgare  —  Great  Spearwort,  Ranunculus  Lingua — Hound's- 
tongue,  Cynoglossum  (fficinalc — Hare's-foot  Trefoil,  Trifolium  arvense, 
Trifolium  mclilotus  lutea. 


14  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP,   thermometer    was    placed,   with  the  greatest 
caution,  in  the  shade. 


Throughout  all  this  part  of  Kuban  Tahtary, 

a  traveller  with  a  light  carriage  may  proceed  at 

the  rate  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  English  miles 

in  a  day.    With  our  burthened  vehicle,  notwith- 

standing the  numerous  delays  occasioned  by 

search  for  plants  and  animals,  we  performed 

seventy  miles  in  the  course  of  twelve  hours. 

We  passed  several  lakes  :  one  of  these,  from 

its  remarkable  appellation,  deserves  notice  :  it 

was  called  Beys  Eau,  "  Prince's  Water  ;"    eau 

being    pronounced   exactly  as  by  the  French, 

and  signifying  the  same  thing.     Bey  is  a  very 

common  Oriental  word  for  a  Prince.    A  village 

near  this  lake  was  called  Bey's  eau  hoy.     We 

noticed  also  some  corn-mills,  worked  by  under- 

shot wheels  ;  and  antient  Tumuli,  as  usual,  in 

the  perspective.     Among  the  birds,  swallows 

appeared  the  most  numerous.     One  vast  plain 

was  entirely  covered  by  swarms  of  these  birds, 

evidently  assembling  in  preparation  for  a  mi- 

gratory flight  to    some   other   country.     Wild 

swans,  geese,  and  ducks,  were  in  great  num- 

bers.    But  the  most  frequent  objects  were,  as 

.  usual,  the  Tumuli.     From  their  great  number, 

it  mio-ht  be  supposed  that  they  were  occasionally 

raised  as  marks  of  guidance  across  these  im- 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA.  15 

mense  plains  during  winter,  when  the  ground  is  CHAP. 
covered  with  snow :  but  when  any  of  them  have 
been  opened,  the  appearance  of  a  sepulchre 
seems  to  leave  the  question  of  their  origin 
beyond  dispute ;  and  the  traveller  is  left  to 
wonder,  and  perplex  himself  in  conjecture, 
concerning  the  population  requisite  for  raising 
such  numerous  vestiges  of  interment,  and  for 
supplying  the  bodies  they  served  to  contain. 
Their  number  greatly  increased  as  we  ap- 
proached the  Kuban.  In  the  last  stage,  before 
we  reached  this  river,  we  counted  ninety-one 
of  these  Tumuli,  all  at  once  in  view. 

The  whole  of  the  soil  in  this  part  of  the 
Tchernomorski  territory  is  covered  with  fine  pas- 
ture herbage,  and  supplies  hay  for  all  their 
cavalry  and  cattle '.  In  our  route,  we  frequently 
encountered  parties  returning  from  the  war,  who  Armv 
had  been  dismissed  to  their  respective  homes, 
.or  had  thought  proper  to  remove  themselves. 
These  were  all  armed  similarly  to  our  escort ; 


(l)  "  The  cattle  here  are  larger  and  finer  than  any-where  in  Russia. 
There  are  no  sheep,  not  even  of  the  Asiatic  breed.  The  Cossack  horses 
are  what  would  be  called,  in  England,  good  galloways.  Their  masters 
vaunt  very  much  their  speed  and  hardiness.  According  to  them,  a 
moderately  good  horse  will  go  sixty  versts,  or  forty  miles,  at  full  speed, 
without  stopping.  They  are  seldom  handsome."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


16  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP,  and,  according  to  the  opinion  of  the  Commandant 
of  the  old  mud  fortress  upon  the  AE,  when  we 
entered  their  territory,  were  as  much  to  be 
dreaded  as  the  Circassians  themselves.  They 
passed  us  however  very  respectfully,  probably 
owing  to  our  number,  which  had  been  now 
augmented  from  twelve  to  twenty  persons. 
Those  whom  we  found  in  the  different  post- 
houses  seemed  to  be  as  wild  as  American 
savages  ;  having  their  bodies  quite  naked,  ex- 
cepting a  sheep's  skin  cast  across  their  shoul- 
ders, with  the  wool  on  the  outside.  They 
usually  appeared  lying  among  the  grass  ;  while 
the  horses  for  the  post  were  grazing  around 
them. 


AS  we   drew  near   to   the  Kulan,  we  had 

Caucasian 

Mountains,  reached  the  last  post-house  before  arriving  at 
EKATERINEDARA,  when  the  view  of  the  Caucasian 
mountains  opened  before  us,  extending,  in  a 
craggy  and  mountainous  ridge,  from  east  to 
west;  but  the  appearance  of  the  Caucasian 
barrier  is  inferior  to  the  Alpine  in  grandeur, 
whatever  may  be  their  relative  altitude1.  Mar- 
shal B'iberstein,  a  celebrated  Russian  botanist 


(1)  The  author  has  been  since  informed,  that  the  ridge  here  alluded 
to  is  not  the  highest  part  of  the  Caucasian  chain  of  mountains. 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

and  traveller,  afterwards  informed  me,  that  he 
considered  Mount  Chat  in  CAUCASUS  to  be  higher 
than  Mont  Blanc :  it  is  visible  at  the  immense 
distance  of  two  hundred  miles.  The  snowy 
summits  of  the  ALPS  are  often  seen  for  a  day's 
journey  before  reaching  them,  glittering  above 
the  line  of  clouds  collected  near  their  bases ; 
especially  by  a  traveller  who  approaches  the 
Tirol  from  the  plains  of  Suabia,  where  they  seem 
to  rise  up  all  at  once,  like  a  wall.  To  us,  indeed, 
who  had  travelled  so  long  in  the  dreary  flats  of 
Russia,  the  Caucasian  mountains  were  a  new  and 
a  very  pleasing  sight.  Our  eyes  had  been 
wearied  with  the  monophany  of  perpetual  plains : 
and  even  the  serene  skies,  to  which  we  had  been 
accustomed,  were  gladly  exchanged  for  the 
refreshing  winds  of  the  hills,  the  frequent 
showers,  and  the  rolling  clouds,  which  cha- 
racterize mountain  scenery.  Trees  also  began 
to  appear ;  the  banks  of  the  Kuban  being  covered 
with  woods.  The  oak,  so  long  a  stranger,  reared 
once  more  his  venerable  head ;  and  the  willow, 
and  the  bramble,  and  wild  raspberries,  and 
blooming  shrubs,  and  thick  underwood,  covered 
the  ground,  affording  retreat  to  abundance  of 
wild-boars  and  deer.  The  last  are  often  taken 
young,  and  kept  as  domestic  animals  in  the 
cottages  of  the  country. 


18  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP.  EKATERINEDARA,  or  Catherines  Gift,  the 
*•  -v-  -'  metropolis  of  the  Tchernomorski  Cossacks,  makes 
theTcher-  a  very  extraordinary  appearance.  It  has  no 


resemblance  to  a  town  ;  but  it  is  rather  a  grove 
or  forest  of  oaks,  in  which  a  number  of  straggling 
cottages,  widely  separated,  are  concealed,  not 
only  from  all  general  observation,  but  even  from 
the  view  of  each  other.  The  inhabitants  have 
cut  down  many  of  the  trees,  and  cleared  the 
land  as  much  as  possible;  but  the  streets  (if 
they  may  be  called  streets),  and  the  spaces 
between  the  houses,  are  covered  with  dwarf 
oaks,  and  thick  branches  yet  sprouting  from 
roots  left  in  the  earth.  The  antiquity  of  the 
Tumuli  covering  all  this  country  may  in  some 
degree  be  proved  even  by  the  appearance  of 
the  oaks  growing  upon  them.  We  saw  some 
trees,  perhaps  as  old  as  any  in  the  world,  so 
situate.  The  inhabitants  had  excavated  some 
of  the  Tumuli,  to  form  cellars  for  their  ice  and 
wine  :  and,  in  so  doing,  they  had  found  several 
terra-cotta  vases,  deposited  with  the  skeletons 
which  those  sepulchres  contained  :  unfortu- 
nately, they  had  destroyed  every  thing  thus 
discovered.  The  air  in  this  metropolitan  forest 
is  pestiferous,  and  the  water  of  the  place  very 
unwholesome.  Fevers,  similar  to  those  pre- 
vailing near  the  Pomptine  Marshes,  in  the  Gulph 
of  Salernum,  and  upon  the  coast  of  Baia  in  Italy, 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA.  1 

afflict  those  who  reside  here.  In  the  environs,  CHAP. 
however,  the  air  is  better.  Perhaps,  when  the 
ground  is  cleared,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  free 
circulation,  and  thoroughly  cultivated  by  the 
increase  of  gardens,  the  health  of  the  inhabitants 
will  be  less  injured ;  but,  owing  to  its  damp 
situation,  and  to  the  vicinity  of  extensive 
marshes  on  the  Circassian  side  of  the  Kuban, 
EKATERINEDARA  is  never  likely  to  become  a 
desirable  place  of  residence.  The  very  founda- 
tion of  the  city  took  place  only  eight  years 
previous  to  our  arrival ;  so  that  it  still  possessed 
all  the  appearance  of  a  colony  newly  transported 
to  the  wildernesses  of  America,  maintaining  a 
struggle  with  inhospitable  natives,  impenetrable 
woods,  and  an  unwholesome  climate.  The 
houses  of  the  inhabitants  were  neater  than  our 
best  English  cottages.  Each  owner  had  before 
his  door  a  large  area,  to  which  an  avenue  of 
the  finest  oaks  conducted;  also  an  adjoining 
garden,  containing  vines,  water-melons,  and 
cucumbers.  The  sunflower  flourishes  here 
without  cultivation.  Many  plants,  found  only 
in  our  greenhouses,  are  the  ordinary  weeds 
of  the  plain.  The  climate,  from  a  proximity 
to  the  mountains,  is  humid  and  cloudy;  and 
it  is  often  agitated  by  violent  winds,  accom- 
panied with  thunder,  and  with  sudden  tem- 
pestuous rain. 

VOL.  u.  c 


20  KUBAN  TAHTARY. 

CHAP.  jn  their  new  settlement,  the  Tchernomorski 
v — v— '  still  exhibit  the  mode  of  life  common  to  them 
of IhePeo-  before  their  migration  from  the  Dnieper.  By 
this  means,  the  Circassians,  and  even  those  of  the 
Russians  who  live  among  them  or  near  them, 
are  instructed  in  many  arts  of  domestic  comfort 
and  cleanliness.  Celebrated  as  they  justly  are 
for  their  skill  in  horsemanship,  they  yet  acknow- 
ledge themselves  inferior  in  this  respect  to  the 
Circassians;  whose  light  bodies,  lightly  accoutred, 
upon  the  fleetest  horses  in  the  world,  outstrip 
them  in  the  chace.  Yet  it  is  not  perhaps  possible 
to  behold  a  more  striking  figure  than  that  of  a 
Tchernomorski  Cossack  mounted  and  equipped  for 
war.  It  is  then  only  he  may  be  said  to  exist, 
and  in  his  native  element ;  brandishing  his  long 
lance  in  the  air,  bending,  turning,  or  halting 
suddenly  when  in  full  speed,  with  so  much 
graceful  attitude,  and  such  natural  dignity, 
that  the  horse  and  the  rider  seem  to  be  as 
one  animal. 


Dress  and       The  reins  of  government  are  entirely  in  the 

External 

Appear-     hands  of  the  Ataman  and  his  officers,  who  wear 

ance. 

the  most  theatrical  and  splendid  habits  known 
to  any  people  in  the  world.  Their  breasts  are 
covered  with  chains  of  gold  and  gold  lace. 
Their  sabre  is  Turkish;  their  boots,  of  red  or 
yellow-coloured  leather;  their  cap,  of  black 


COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA.  21 

velvet,  ornamented  with  lace  and  silver  chains, 
or  fine  black  Tahtarian  wool,  taken  from  lambs 
in  an  embryo  state.  They  bind  their  waist 
with  silken  sashes,  sustaining  pistols  of  the 
most  costly  workmanship.  A  small  whip,  with 
a  short  leathern  thong,  is  attached  to  their  little 
finger.  The  lower  extremity  of  their  lance  is 
supported  by  the  right  foot;  and  from  the 
powder  flask,  pendent  in  front,  are  suspended 
silver  coins  and  other  trinkets. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival,  the  Ataman  Visitfr°m 

iheAtaman 

waited  upon  us  with  a  party  of  officers.  One 
of  the  best  houses  in  the  place  had  been  pre- 
viously allotted  to  our  use :  this  they  desired 
us  to  consider  as  our  own,  and  declared  them- 
selves ready  to  render  us  any  service  in  their 
power.  The  Ataman  then  informed  us,  that  the 
Pasha  of  Anapa,  with  several  of  the  Princes  of 
Circassia,  had  crossed  the  Kuban,  and  pitched 
their  tents  upon  the  northern  side  of  the 
river,  suing  for  peace  with  the  Tchernomorski ; 
that  a  considerable  part  of  the  Cossack  army 
would  march  to  give  them  a  meeting  in  the 
morning,  and  adjust  the  preliminaries;  and, 
as  the  ceremony  might  amuse  us,  he  very 
kindly  offered  to  include  us  among  the  per- 
sons of  his  suite.  To  this  proposal  we  readily 
assented, 

c  2 


22  COSSACKS  OF  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

CHAP.  The  history  of  the  war  in  which  they  had 
<  —  *  —  '  been  so  recently  engaged  is  as  follows.  The 
theU\Var°in  Circassians.,  in  their  nocturnal  incursions,  had 


jagt  three  years  committed  many  depre- 
dations upon  the  territory  of  the  Tchernomorski  ; 
not  only  stealing  their  cattle,  but  sometimes 
bearing  off  the  inhabitants.  The  Tchernomorski 
applied  to  the  Emperor  for  permission  to  punish 
these  marauders,  and  also  for  a  reinforcement. 
General  Drascouitz  was  accordingly  sent,  with 
a  party  of  troops  and  some  artillery,  into  Kuban 
Tartary.  At  five  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
Friday,  June  the  20th,  the  army,  consisting  of 
four  thousand  five  hundred  men,  including  two 
regiments  of  regulars,  some  pieces  of  artillery, 
and  the  chief  part  of  the  Cossack  army  stationed 
in  and  near  Ekaterinedara,  began  to  advance, 
by  crossing  the  river.  This  undertaking  was 
sufficiently  arduous  to  have  daunted  better- 
disciplined  troops.  The  Kuban  is  broad  and  very 
rapid.  A  few  canoes,  with  one  flat-bottomed 
barge,  were  all  the  transports  provided  for  this 
purpose.  General  Drascovitz  assured  us  he  had 
never  seen  any  thing  to  equal  the  spirit  and 
alacrity  of  the  Cossack  cavalry,  who  led  the  way, 
and  the  zeal  manifested  when  they  received  the 
order  to  march.  They  plunged  on  horseback 
into  the  torrent,  and  swam  to  the  opposite  shore. 
The  passage  was  begun,  as  we  have  stated,  at 


WAR  IN  CIRCASSIA. 

five  in  the  morning ;  and  by  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  the  whole  army  had  crossed  the  river : 
this,  considering  the  want  of  proper  boats  and 
of  other  conveniences,  and  the  great  rapidity  of 
the  current,  is  wonderful.  By  nine  o'clock  in  the 
same  evening  the  attack  commenced.  A  small 
party,  consisting  only  of  eight  of  the  Circassian 
advanced  guard,  were  surprised  in  the  very 
onset :  of  these,  two  were  taken,  and  the  others 
fled  to  give  the  alarm.  The  first  effective  blow 
was  however  struck  by  the  Circassians,  who  after- 
wards attacked  the  advanced  guard  of  the  Cossack 
cavalry,  taking  eleven  of  the  Cossack  horses 
and  a  few  prisoners.  General  Drascovitz  then 
detached  a  body  of  Cossacks  to  reconnoitre,  who 
found  the  Circassians  in  possession  of  a  strong 
hold,  and  prepared  for  attack.  These  gave  the 
Cossacks  a  very  warm  reception ;  but  the  General, 
perceiving  it,  caused  some  pieces  of  artillery  to 
bear  upon  his  opponents.  The  noise  of  cannon 
had  never  before  been  heard  in  Circassia :  the 
rocks  of  CAUCASUS  repeated  the  dreadful  uproar 
of  the  guns ;  and  the  natives,  at  the  very  sound, 
fled  in  all  directions.  The  Russian  army  then 
rapidly  advancing,  burned  and  destroyed  eight  Army, 
villages,  took  eight  thousand  head  of  cattle, 
besides  a  quantity  of  arms  and  other  valuables. 
The  number  of  the  dead  on  the  side  of  the  Cir- 
cassians amounted  in  one  village  to  thirty-seven, 


24  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

and    nearly    an    equal    slaughter,  took   place 
in  all  the  others.     The  Russians  lost  only  ten 
Cossacks,  who  were  made  prisoners ;  but  had  not 
a  man  killed,   and  very  few  wounded.     The 
number  of  Circassian  prisoners  was  not  great; 
so  desperate  was  their  valour,  that  they  pre- 
ferred being  cut  to  pieces,  rather  than  surrender. 
The  first  overtures  for  peace  were  made  by 
deputies  from  the  Circassians,  who  demanded 
the  cause  of  the  war.     The  answer  given  by 
the  Cossacks  is  curious,  as  it  serves  to  call  to 
mind  similar  laconic  expressions  made  in  antient 
times.     "  You  have  played  your  gambols"   said 
they,  "  in  our  territory,  these  three  years :  we  there- 
fore come  for  a  little  sport  in  yours"     This  answer 
being  carried  to  the  princes  of  the  country, 
they  came  in  great  numbers  to  sue  the  Cossacks 
for  quarter  and  peace.    In  aid  of  this  request,  a 
scarcity  of  bread  prevailed  at  that  time  among 
the  allied  forces  of  Russians  and  Cossacks ;  and 
the   water    of   the   country   being   bad,    they 
retreated   gradually   across   the  Kutan :    here 
Arrival  of    they  were  met  by  the  Pasha  of  Anaba.  coming 

thePoiAa  .   f  : 

ot  Anapa,  with  a  great  retinue  and  much  ceremony,  m 
the  name  of  the  Turkish  Government,  to  inter- 
cede for  the  Circassians;  and  offering  himself, 
at  the  same  time,  as  a  hostage  for  the  security 
of  their  future  conduct.  To  strengthen  these 
assurances,  he  accompanied  the  Cossacks  and 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  25 

Russians  across  the  Kuban,  and  entered  EKATE-  CHAP. 
RINEDARA,  but  was  not  permitted  to  remain 
there,  on  account  of  the  quarantine.  He  was 
suffered,  however,  to  pitch  his  tent  upon  the 
Cossack  side  of  the  Kuban,  close  to  the  river. 
From  thence  he  passed  again  into  Circassia; 
and  assembling  the  princes  of  the  country, 
made  them  take  a  solemn  oath  of  peace  and 
friendship  with  the  Tchernomorski :  but  the 
latter,  not  being  satisfied  with  a  report  of  these 
proceedings,  insisted  that  the  same  oath  should 
be  publickly  repeated  upon  their  side  of  the 
river.  It  was  for  this  purpose  that  the  Pasha 
of  Anapa  had  again  returned,  bringing  with  him 
the  most  powerful  of  the  Circassian  princes, 
who  now  waited  upon  the  northern  bank  of 
the  Kuban,  to  proceed  in  the  required  cere- 
mony. 

At  nine  o'clock  on  the  following  morning,  the 
8th  of  July,  General  Drascovitz  sent  his  droshy l, 
escorted  by  a  party  of  armed  Cossacks  and  an 
officer,  to  state  that  the  Ataman  was  waiting  for 
us  to  join  his  suite  in  the  procession  to  the 
Pasha  of  Anapa  $  tent  by  the  Kuban ;  and  that 
many  of  the  princes  of  Circassia  were  there, 


(1)  A  carriage  peculiar  to  Russia.    See  the  Vignette  to  the  Eighth 
Chapter  of  Vol.  I. 


26  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

ready  to  take  the  oath  of  peace.  We  drove  to 
head-quarters,  and  arrived  as  the  grand  caval- 
cade, consisting  of  the  Ataman  with  a  numerous 
escort  of  Cossack  officers,  and  delegates  from 
all  the  troops  of  the  Cossack  army,  were  pro- 
ceeding to  the  river  side,  distant  only  half  a  mile 
from  the  town.  We  had  never  seen  a  more 
striking  spectacle.  The  dresses  worn  by  the 
officers  were  more  beautiful  than  the  most  mag- 
nificent theatres  ever  exhibited,  displaying  every 
variety  of  colour  and  of  ornament ;  while  their 
high-bred  horses,  glittering  in  embroidered 
housings,  and  prancing  with  flowing  manes 
and  tails,  seemed  conscious  of  the  warlike  dig- 
nity of  their  riders.  Several  Cossacks  darted 
by  us,  upon  the  fleetest  coursers,  to  join  the 
van  of  the  cavalcade.  In  front  rode  the  Ataman, 
bareheaded,  in  a  habit  of  blue  velvet,  with 
sleeves  and  trowsers  of  scarlet  cloth,  very  richly 
embroidered.  From  his  shoulders  fell  loosely 
a  rich  tunic,  lined  with  blue  silk,  and  fastened 
back  by  gold  buttons.  His  boots,  like  those  of 
all  the  other  officers,  were  of  red  leather ;  and 
by  his  side  was  suspended  a  broad  and  costly 
sabre,  in  a  sheath  of  red  velvet,  richly  em- 
bossed with  gold,  and  studded  with  turquoises. 
On  each  side  of  him  rode  a  party  of  his  prin- 
cipal officers ;  and  behind  him  followed  all  the 
flower  of  the  Cossack  army,  in  most  sumptuous 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  27 

dresses,  curbing-  their  foaming  and  neighing 
steeds.  We  were  now,  by  the  Atamans  orders, 
placed  in  the  van  of  the  procession ;  and  soon 
arriving  upon  the  high  grounds  forming  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Kuban,  beheld  the  encamp- 
ment of  the  Turks  and  Circassians,  upon  a  small 
plain,  close  to  the  water's  edge.  The  Pasha, 
surrounded  by  his  attendants,  was  seated  in  his 
tent,  smoking,  with  the  awning  drawn  up  on  all 
sides.  He  was  attended  by  a  Turkish  courier 
from  the  Porte,  by  his  own  dragoman  or  inter- 
preter, and  by  several  of  the  most  powerful 
Circassian  princes,  dressed  in  the  savage  and 
extraordinary  habits  worn  by  the  different  tribes 
of  CAUCASUS  :  some  of  which  will  be  hereafter 
more  particularly  noticed.  Upon  the  opposite 
shore  appeared  a  very  considerable  multitude 
of  Circassians,  collected  either  by  curiosity,  or 
in  the  hope  of  commerce  with  the  Cossacks, 
when  the  terms  of  peace  should  be  concluded. 
The  greater  part  of  them  remained  at  a  distance 
from  the  rest,  exhibiting  evident  caution  and 
mistrust,  as  if  uncertain  what  termination  the 
business  of  the  day  might  have.  As  soon  as 
the  Cossack  cavalry  made  its  appearance,  the  Cir- 
cassian deputies  rose,  and  came  to  the  entrance 
of  the  Pasha's  tent,  who  was  seen  in  front  of 
the  party,  bearing  in  his  hand  a  small  tuft 
of  camel's  hair  fastened  to  an  ivory  handle : 


28  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHAP.  with  this  he  was  occupied  in  keeping  off  the 
*'  .  mosquitoes.  The  Cossack  army  halted  upon  the 
brow  of  the  hill ;  and  all  the  cavalry,  being  dis- 
mounted, were  drawn  up  in  two  lines  parallel 
to  the  river :  in  front  appeared  the  Cossack  sol- 
diers, standing  by  their  lances.  The  Ataman 
and  his  principal  officers  rode  down  into  the 
plain  before  the  tent:  here,  having  alighted, 
their  horses  were  trfken  back,  and  they  all 
advanced,  bareheaded,  towards  the  Pasha.  We 
accompanied  them ;  and  being  stationed  by 
the  Ataman,  near  to  his  person,  understood,  by 
means  of  our  interpreter,  all  that  passed  upon 
the  occasion. 

ceremony       The  preliminaries  were  begun  by  an  apology 

efconclud-  J  &<7 

ing  the       from  the  Ataman  for  having  kept  the  Pasha  so 

Peace^ 

long  waiting.  "  Your  coming,"  replied  the 
Pasha,  "  is  for  a  good  purpose,  and  therefore 
may  have  demanded  consideration :  bad  things 
alone  are  rashly  hurried  over." 

Ataman.  "  Have  you  explained  to  the  Cir- 
cassian princes  that  we  are  not  satisfied  with 
oaths  of  peace  made  by  them  in  their  territory  ? 
We  must  bear  testimony  to  their  attestations 
here,  in  our  own  land." 

Pasha.  "  I  have  made  this  known  throughout 
all  the  Caucasian  line.  Several  of  the  most 
powerful  princes  of  the  country  are  now  present, 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  29 

to  answer  for   the   rest  of  their  countrymen,    CHAP. 
and  for  themselves." 

Ataman.  "  Have  all  those  who  are  not  pre- 
sent, as  well  as  these  their  deputies,  taken  the 
oath  of  peace  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  ?" 

Pasha.  "  All  of  them.  Unless  I  had  been 
present  upon  the  occasion  myself,  and  had 
actually  witnessed  it,  I  would  not  venture  to 
be  responsible  for  their  peaceable  behaviour: 
this  I  now  promise  to  be." 

Ataman.  "  Your  Excellency  speaks  of  a  re- 
sponsibility, perhaps  much  greater  than  you 
imagine.  Hitherto,  their  princes  have  paid  no 
respect  to  the  obligation  of  an  oath ;  which  has 
been  violated  as  often  as  it  was  made.  How 
many  have  engaged  to  be  bound  by  the  oath 
now  to  be  repeated  ?" 

Pasha.  "  Fifty :  and  of  these,  the  most  pow- 
erful are  the  princes  who  have  attended  me 
upon  this  occasion." 

Ataman.  "  All  our  Cossack  brethren,  whom 
the  Circassians  have  made  prisoners,  must  be 
restored :  in  failure  of  this,  the  war  will  cer- 
tainly be  renewed ;  and  in  compliance  with  this 
demand,  all  our  prisoners  will  be  given  up." 

Some  other  conversation  past,  which  we 
were  unable  to  collect,  from  the  rapidity  of  its 
delivery.  As  soon  as  the  preliminaries  were 


30  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHAP,  concluded,  involving  very  little  discussion,  for 
y  ,.y-  .  >  the  Circassians  seemed  willing  to  accede  to  any 
proposition  made  on  the  part  of  the  Cossacks, 
the  Pasha  took  from  his  bosom  a  manuscript 
written  upon  linen :  the  Circassian  princes 
severally  laid  their  hands  upon  it,  promising 
to  the  Cossacks  the  undisturbed  possession  of 
all  the  country  upon  the  northern  side  of  the 
Kuban.  What  the  precise  nature  of  the  manu- 
script was  we  could  not  learn :  it  was  said  to 
contain  certain  passages  of  the  Koran  and  other 
sacred  writings.  The  whole  ceremony  ended 
by  the  Pasha"s  inscribing  with  a  reed  the  names 
of  the  parties  concerned  in  this  transaction, 

Circassian  The  extraordinary  appearance  of  the  Circassian 
princes  drew  our  attention  entirely  to  them. 
Their  clothes  were  ragged :  their  necks  and 
legs  quite  bare.  Only  a  few  wore  upon  their 
feet  slippers  of  red  leather.  Their  heads  were 
all  shaven,  and  covered  upon  the  crown  with 
small  scull-caps,  laced  with  silver1.  In  their 

(l)  The  most  antient  covering  of  the  head  worn  in  Greece  was 
exactly  of  the  same  shape,  resembling  the  scalps  torn  by  Americans  from 
the  prisoners  they  make  in  war.  It  is  worn,  beneath  the  turban,  all 
over  the  East.  The  Circassians  of  rank  wear  it  without  any  turban. 
It  is  still  worn,  in  the  same  manner,  by  many  inhabitants  of  modern 
Greece ;  and  its  use  in  that  country,  long  prior  to  its  conquest  by  the 
Turks,  agrees  with  the  opinion  maintained  by  the  author's  Grand- 
father, concerning  the  origin  of  the  Getic,  Colhic,  and  Grecian  peo- 
ple. See  Connection  of  the  Roman,  Saxon,  and  English  Coins,  6Lc. 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  31 

belts  they  had  large  pistols.  By  their  sides  CHAP. 
were  suspended  a  sabre  and  a  knife.  Ball- 
cartridges,  sewed  singly,  were  ranged  in  rows 
upon  their  breasts.  The  sleeves  of  their 
jackets  being  worn  out  at  the  elbows,  there 
appeared,  through  the  holes,  plates  of  silver  or 
of  steel  armour,  inlaid.  This  armour  was  worn 
next  the  skin,  covering  the  arms,  but  concealed 
by  their  clothes.  A  coat  of  mail  protected  also 
the  breast  and  the  rest  of  the  body.  Some  of 
them  wore  a  sort  of  iron  shirt,  made  of  twisted 
mail,  or  rings  so  closely  interwoven,  and  so 
well  adapted  to  the  form,  that  every  part  of  the 
body,  except  the  face,  was  covered.  Pallas,  in 
his  "  Travels  through  the  South  of  Russia"  has 
represented  one  of  their  princes  on  horseback, 
covered  by  this  kind  of  armour3.  A  bow  and 
quiver  are  fastened  by  straps  around  the  hips. 
We  brought  away  one  of  their  arrows:  this 
they  said  had  actually  traversed  the  body  of 
a  Cossack  horse,  and  killed  the  animal  upon  the 
spot.  The  Circassians  use  the  bow  with  great 
skill,  never  making  random  shots,  but  being 
certain  of  their  aim  before  they  let  the  arrow 
fly.  The  Russian  army  very  much  dreaded 
those  destructive  weapons;  as  they  are  used 


(2)  See  Pallas's  Travels  through  the  Southern  Prminces,&ic<  Vol.1, 
p.  401.    PI.  20. 


32  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

t  HAP.  by  skilful  marksmen,  who,  like  riflemen,  station 
themselves  in  trees,  or  among  rocks,  in  the 
passes  of  the  mountains,  to  shoot  the  officers. 

A  circumstance  not  worth  relating,  if  it  did 
not  illustrate  the  manners  and  character  of  the 
different  people  then  assembled,  afforded  con- 
siderable amusement  to  us",  who  were  merely 
spectators  upon  this  occasion.  When  the 
Pasha  received  the  Ataman  with  his  attendants, 
he  was  evidently  in  a  state  of  trepidation. 
Seeing  the  high  banks  of  the  river  covered  with 
armed  men,  and  the  lances  of  the  Cossacks 
ranged  like  a  forest  along  the  northern  side  of 
the  Kuban,  he  could  not  conceal  his  anxiety 
and  uneasiness.  His  own  manners  were  re- 
markably affable  and  polite ;  but  he  viewed  the 
troops  and  officers  of  the  Cossack  army,  by 
whom  he  was  surrounded,  as  a  set  of  lawless 
plunderers,  for  whose  conduct  there  could  be 
no  long  security.  Doubtless  he  had  heard  as 
many  tales  of  the  barbarism  of  the  Tchernomorski 
as  we  had  done  before,  and  wished  himself  safe 
again  upon  his  own  divan  in  Anapa.  If  we  had 
been  filled  with  such  idle  fancies  by  the  Russians 
themselves,  it  is  but  reasonable  to  believe  that 
the  Turks,  who  consider  even  the  Russians  as 
barbarians,  must  necessarily  esteem  the  Cossacks 
as  a  set  of  ferocious  banditti.  The  Reader  may 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  33 

then  imagine  what    the   astonishment  of  the    CHAP. 

i. 
Pasha  was,  when,  being  induced  by  curiosity 

to  ask  the  Ataman  from  what  country  we  came, 
he  was  informed  we  were  English  gentlemen, 
travelling  for  amusement  among  the  very  people 
whose  appearance  gave  him  so  much  uneasiness, 
and  whom  nothing  but  the  most  urgent  necessity 
could  have  caused  him  to  visit.  He  seemed  to 
regain  all  his  composure  by  this  intelligence, 
speaking  very  highly  of  our  countrymen,  and 
saying,  that  the  obligations  England  had  con- 
ferred upon  Turkey  would  never  be  forgotten. 
We  took  this  opportunity  to  inquire  respecting 
the  state  of  the  countries  bordering  the  south 
coast  of  the  Black  Sea.  He  described  them  as 
full  of  difficulty  and  danger  for  travellers ; 
that  many  districts  were  infested  by  merciless 
robbers ;  and  that  a  journey  to  Constantinople  by 
land,  from  Anapa,  would  at  least  require  three 
months ;  whereas  by  water,  from  the  same 
place,  it  might  be  accomplished  in  four  or  five 
days.  Indeed,  the  inhabitants  of  Taganrog 
have  performed  the  voyage  within  that  period, 
including  the  additional  passage  of  the  Sea  of 
Azof  and  the  Straits  of  Taman. 

As  soon  as  the  ceremony  ended,  the  Pasha 
embarked  with  his  suite,  in  a  canoe  so  narrow, 
that  two  persons  could  not  sit  abreast.  With 


34  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHAP,  more  adventure  than  might  have  been  expected 
y  .v-  -'  in  a  Turk,  hampered  as  he  was  by  his  cumbrous 
dress,  he  squatted  upon  some  rushes  in  the 
bottom  of  this  vessel,  and  was  soon  paddled 
into  the  middle  of  the  rapid  torrent.  The 
canoes  upon  the  Kuban  are  all  made  of  one 
piece  of  wood,  being  merely  the  trunk  of  a 
large  tree  scooped  for  the  purpose.  From  the 
numbers  huddled  with  the  Pasha,  we  expected 
every  instant  to  see  his  canoe  sink  or  upset,  for 
its  edge  was  level  with  the  water.  It  was  out 
of  sight,  however,  in  an  instant,  descending  the 
current  with  amazing  velocity,  and  disappearing 
by  the  turn  of  the  river. 

Peasants  of  We  then  went  to  examine  more  minutely  the 
crowd  of  Circassians  of  a  lower  order,  numbers 
of  whom  were  passing  the  Kuban  in  their  canoes, 
and  assembling  on  the  Russian  side.  They  came 
to  exchange  wood,  honey,  and  weapons,  for 
salt,  according  to  their  usual  practice  in  times 
of  peace.  Here  we  saw  some  of  the  wildest 
mountaineers  of  CAUCASUS,  all  of  whom  were 
completely  armed,  and  all  robbers  by  profes- 
sion. The  descriptions  given  of  the  natives  in 
the  South  Seas  do  not  represent  human  nature 
in  a  more  savage  state  than  its  condition  ex- 
hibits among  the  Circassians.  Instructed  from 
their  infancy  to  consider  war  and  plunder  not 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  35 

only  as  a  necessary,  but  as  an  honourable  occu- 
pation, they  bear  in  their  countenances  the  most 
striking  expressions  of  ferocious  valour,  and  of 
duplicity.      If,  while   a   Circassian  is  standing 
behind  you,  a  sudden  turn  of  your  head  betrays 
to  you  his  features,  his  brow  appears  menacing, 
and  he  seems  to  meditate  some  desperate  act; 
but  the  instant  he  perceives  that  he  is  observed, 
his  countenance  relaxes  into  a  deceitful  smile, 
and  he  assumes  the  most  obsequious  and  sub- 
missive   attitude   imaginable.      Their    bodies, 
especially  their  legs,  feet,  and  arms,  are  almost 
naked.     They  wear  no  shirt,  and  only  a  pair  of 
coarse  ragged  drawers,  reaching  a  little  below 
the  knee ;  but  upon  their  shoulders,  even  during 
the  greatest  heat  of  summer,  they  carry  a  thick 
and  heavy  cloak  of  felt,  or  the  hide  of  a  goat 
with  the  hair  on  the  outside,  reaching  below 
the  waist.     Beneath  this  coarse  mantle  appears 
a  sabre,  a  bow  and  quiver,  a  musket,  and  other 
weapons.     Both  the  peasants  and  the  princes 
shave  their  heads,  and   cover  them  with  the 
sort  of  scull-cap  which  was  before  mentioned, 
and  which  the  Turks  call  Fez.      Difference  of 
rank,  indeed,  seems  to  cause  little  distinction 
of  dress  among  them,  except  that  the  peasant 
further  covers  his  head  and  shoulders  with  a 
large  cowl.     Beauty  of  features  and  of  form, 
for  which  the  Circassians  have   so  long  been 

VOL.   II.  D 


36  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHAP,  celebrated,  is  certainly  prevalent  among  them. 
Their  noses  are  aquiline,  their  eye-brows  arched 
and  regular,  their  mouths  small,  their  teeth 
remarkably  white,  and  their  ears  not  so  large 
nor  so  prominent  as  those  of  Tahtars ;  although, 
from  wearing  the  head  shaven,  they  appear  to 
disadvantage,  according  to  our  European  notions 
of  beauty.  They  are  well  shaped,  and  very 
active;  being  generally  of  the  middle  size, 
seldom  exceeding  five  feet  eight  or  nine  inches. 
Their  women  are  the  most  beautiful  perhaps  in 
the  world ;  of  enchanting  perfection  of  features, 
and  very  delicate  complexions.  The  females 
that  we  saw  were  all  of  them  the  accidental 
captives  of  war,  who  had  been  carried  off 
together  with  their  families ;  they  were,  how- 
ever, remarkably  handsome.  Many  of  them, 
although  suffering  from  ill  health,  from  privation 
of  every  kind,  and  from  sorrow,  and  being 
exhibited  under  every  possible  circumstance 
of  disadvantage,  had  yet  a  very  interesting 
appearance.  Their  hair  was,  generally,  dark  or 
light  brown,  in  some  instances  approaching  to 
black.  Their  eyes  had  a  singular  degree  of 
animation,  which  is  very  characteristical  of  the 
Circassian  people ;  this,  in  some  of  the  men,  gives 
to  them  an  expression  of  ferocity.  The  finest 
paintings  of  the  best  masters,  representing  a 
Hector  or  a  Helen,  do  not  display  greater  beauty 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  37 

than  we  beheld  even  in  the  prison  at  Ekaterine-    CHAP. 
dam;   where    wounded    Circassians,    male    and 
female,  loaded   with  fetters,  and  huddled  to- 
gether, were  pining  in  grief  and  sickness. 

The  Circassians  being  collected  in  much 
greater  numbers  on  the  Caucasian  side  of  the 
Kuban,  we  applied  to  the  Commander-in-chief, 
for  permission  to  pass  over  into  their  territory. 
This  was  obtained  with  great  difficulty ;  and  the 
Ataman,  accompanied  by  several  armed  Cossacks, 
was  ordered  to  attend  us.  We  crossed  the  river 
in  canoes ;  and,  arriving  on  the  Circassian  side, 
beheld  the  natives,  who  had  been  assembled 
from  all  parts  of  the  country,  gathered  into 
groupes  along  the  shore.  Several  of  them, 
having  a  most  savage  aspect,  were  collected 
together  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the 
spot  where  we  landed.  Perceiving  that  the 
Ataman  avoided  going  towards  them,  we  begged 
that  he  would  allow  us  that  privilege.  "  if  it 
be  your  desire,"  said  he,  taking  his  sabre  from 
its  scabbard,  "  you  shall  not  feel  disappoint- 
ment upon  my  account;  but  you  little  know 
what  sort  of  people  Circassians  are.  They  pay 
no  respect  to  treaties,  nor  even  to  their  own 
princes,  when  they  see  an  opportunity  of 
plunder ;  and  they  are  likely  to  do  some  of  us 
injury  before  we  return."  Our  curiosity,  however, 

D2 


38  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHIAP"  g°t  the  better  of  all  fear,  and  we  followed 
the  Atamans  reluctant  steps  to  the  place  where 
they  were  assembled.  Seeing  us  advance,  they 
hastily  snatched  up  their  arms  (which  they  had 
placed  against  the  trees  and  upon  the  ground), 
and  received  us  with  an  air  of  evident  defiance. 
We  endeavoured  to  convince  them  that  our 
views  were  pacific ;  but  matters  soon  grew  more 
and  more  menacing,  as  they  began  talking  loud 
and  with  great  rapidity.  No  one  of  our  party 
understood  what  they  said ;  and  the  Atamans 
uneasiness  considerably  increasing,  we  made 
signs  for  the  canoes  to  draw  near  the  shore, 
and  effected  our  retreat.  Thinking  to  shew 
them  some  mark  of  our  respect,  and  of  our 
friendly  intentions,  we  took  off  our  hats,  and 
bowed  to  them  as  we  retired.  The  effect  was 
highly  amusing :  they  all  roared  with  loud  and 
savage  laughter,  and,  mocking  our  manner  of 
making  obeisance,  seemed  to  invite  us  to  a 
repetition  of  the  ceremony ;  and  as  often  as  we 
renewed  it,  they  set  up  fresh  peals  of  laughter. 
The  Cossack  officers,  who  accompanied  us  upon 
this  occasion,  told  us  that  the  Circassians  who 
lurk  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Kuban  are 
a  tribe  as  wild  and  lawless  as  any  in  the  whole 
district  of  CAUCASUS  ;  that  their  principal  object 
is,  to  seize  upon  men,  and  to  carry  them  off, 
for  the  purpose  of  selling  them  as  slaves  in 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  39 

Persia.  The  cannon  upon  the  heights  of  Ekate-  CHAP. 
rinedara  at  this  time  commanded  the  whole  «. .,  ,...,.,-,. ,  / 
marshy  territory  on  the  Circassian  side ;  yet  it 
was  impossible  to  venture,  even  a  few  hundred 
yards,  in  search  of  plants,  owing  to  the  danger 
that  might  be  apprehended  from  numbers 
skulking  in  ambush  among  the  woods  near 
the  river.  The  hasty  survey  we  had  made 
disclosed  to  us  a  plain  covered  with  wild 
raspberry-trees,  blackberry  bushes,  and  a  few 
large  willows  by  the  water's  edge.  Farther, 
towards  the  south,  appeared  woods  of  consi- 
derable extent,  full  of  the  finest  oaks.  Beyond 
these  woods  appeared  the  chain  of  Caucasian 
mountains,  and  territories  which  had  been  the 
theatre  of  war.  The  mountains  rose  like  the 
Alpine  barrier.  Some  of  them  seemed  to  be 
very  lofty ;  and  their  sides  retained  patches  of 
snow  toward  the  middle  of  July;  but,  upon  the 
whole,  they  seemed  less  lofty  than  the  ALPS. 
The  passes  through  CAUCASUS  must  be  difficult 
and  intricate,  as  the  mountains  stand  close  to 
each  other,  and  their  summits  are  rugged  and  ir- 
regular. Those  nearest  to  Ehaterinedara  were  not 
less  than  twenty-six  English  miles  distant,  and 
yet  they  appeared  very  visible  to  the  naked  eye. 

When  we  returned  to  the  Russian  side,  the 
Circassians  who  had    crossed    the    river  were 


40  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

dancing  and  rejoicing  on  account  of  the  peace. 
One  of  their  vagrant  musicians,   exercising  a 
profession  much  esteemed  by  all  nations  in  the 
infancy  of  society,  and  particularly  among  the 
tribes  who  inhabit  CAUCASUS,  performed  upon  a 
silver  flute  called   Camil.     It  was   about   two 
feet  in  length,  and  had  only  three  finger-holes 
toward  the  lower  extremity  of  the  tube.     The 
mode  of  blowing  this  instrument  is  as  remark- 
able as  the  sound  it  produced.     A  small  stick 
is  placed   in  the   upper   end   of  a  flute   open 
at  either  extremity ;  which,  being  drawn  out  to 
the  length  of  an  inch,  is  pressed  by  the  per~ 
former  against  the  roof  of  his  mouth.    It  is  very 
difficult  to  conceive  how  any  tones  can  be  pro- 
duced in  this  manner,  as  the  performer's  moutlj 
is  kept  open  the  whole  time,  and  he  accom- 
panies the  notes  with  his  own  voice.     By  the 
violent  straining  of  every  muscle  in  his  counte' 
nance,  the  performance  seemed  to  be  a  work 
of  great  difficulty  and  labour;  the  sounds  all 
the  while  resembling  the  droning  noise   of  a 
bagpipe.     We  wished  to  purchase  the  instru- 
ment with  a  quantity  of  salt,  the  only  money 
they  receive  in  payment;  but  its  owner,  deriving 
his    livelihood,    and    consequence    among    his 
countrymen,  entirely  from  his  flute,  would  not 
consent  to  sell  it.    The  Circassians  know  nothing 
of  the  value  of  coins,  using  them  only  to  adorn 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  41 

their  persons ;  and  even  for  this  purpose  they    CHAP. 
did  not  seem  desirous  to  possess  the  few  silver  »  .  ..„•.   * 
pieces  we  offered  to  them.  It  is  evident  that  their 
favourite  musical  instrument,  the  Camil,  was  not 
always  of  metal ;  for  upon  the  silver  tube  which 
I  have  described,  the  natural  joints  seen  upon 
canes  and  reeds  in  the  rivers  and  marshes  of 
the  country  had  been  imitated  by  the  maker. 

Their  dances  do  not  resemble  those  of  any  Dances  of 

0  ,  .  ....          of  the  Cir- 

other  nation,  something  perhaps  nearly  similar  cassia™. 
may  have  been  described  as  practised  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  South-Sea  Islands.  Ten,  fifteen, 
or  twenty  persons,  all  standing  in  a  line,  and 
holding  by  each  other's  arms,  begin  lolling  from 
right  to  left,  lifting  up  their  feet  as  high  as 
possible,  to  the  measure  of  the  tune,  and  only 
interrupting  the  uniformity  of  their  motion  by 
sudden  squeaks  and  exclamations.  Nothing 
could  seem  more  uneasy  than  the  situation  of  the 
performers  in  the  middle  of  the  row ;  but  even 
these,  squeezed  as  they  were  from  one  side  to 
the  other,  testified  their  joy  in  the  same  manner. 
After  some  time,  there  was  a  pause;  when  a 
single  dancer,  starting  from  the  rest,  pranced, 
about  in  the  most  ludicrous  manner,  exhibiting 
only  two  steps  that  could  be  assimilated  to  the 
movements  of  a  dance.  Each  of  these  may  be 
noticed,  not  only  in  our  English  hornpipe,  but  in 


42  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

all  the  dances  of  northern  nations.  The  first 
consisted  in  hopping  upon  one  foot,  and  in 
touching  the  ground  with  the  heel  and  toe  of 
the  other  alternately.  The  second,  in  hopping 
on  one  foot,  and  thrusting  the  other  before  it, 
so  as  to  imitate  the  bounding  of  a  stag :  from 
this  animal  the  motion  was  originally  borrowed, 
as  it  actually  bears  its  name  among  the  wild 
Irish  at  this  day.  A  due  attention  to  national 
dances  frequently  enables  us  to  ascertain  the 
progress  made  by  any  people  towards  refine- 
ment. The  exercise  itself  is  as  antient  as  the 
human  race ;  and,  however  variously  modified, 
the  popular  dances  peculiar  to  ages  the  most 
remote,  and  to  countries  the  most  widely  sepa- 
rated, may  all  be  deduced  from  one  common 
origin,  having  reference  to  the  intercourse  of  the 
sexes ;  and  therefore  more  or  less  equivocal,  in 
proportion  as  the  state  of  society  has  been  more 
or  less  affected  by  the  progress  of  civilization1. 

Circassian       in    different    parts    of  the    great    chain    of 

Language. 

mountains  bearing  the  general  appellation  of 
CAUCASUS,  the  languages  are  as  various  as  the 


(l)  An  inquiry  into  the  antiquity  and  origin  of  National  Dances, 
as  connected  with  the  history  of  mankind,  would  form  a  very  curious 
subject  of  discussion.  The  author  once  collected  materials  for  that 
purpose,  but  it  would  require  more  leisure  than  is  now  granted  to 
him  to  prepare  them  for  the  Public. 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  43 

principalities.  Few  of  the  present  inhabitants  CHAP. 
of  Kuban  Tahtary  are  able  to  converse  with  any 
of  the  Circassian  tribes.  Those  whom  we  saw 
near  the  river  spoke  a  dialect  so  harsh  and 
guttural,  that  it  was  by  no  means  pleasing  to 
the  ear.  Pallas  says  it  is  probable  that  the 
Circassian  bears  no  affinity  to  any  other  lan- 
guage; and  that,  according  to  report,  their 
Princes  and  Vsdens  speak  a  peculiar  dialect, 
unknown  to  the  common  people,  and  chiefly 
used  in  predatory  excursions2.  Their  mode  of 
life  is  that  of  professional  robbers.  It  might 
have  been  foretold  of  the  Circassian,  as  of 
Ishmael5,  "  HE  WILL  BE  A  WILD  MAN;  HIS  HAND 

WILL  BE  AGAINST  EVERY  MAN,    AND  EVERY  MAN'S 

HAND  AGAINST  HIM."  Those  who  inhabit  the 
passes  of  the  mountains,  and  are  not  occupied 
in  any  agricultural  employment,  depend  solely 
upon  plunder  for  their  subsistence.  The  petty 
princes  are  continually  at  war  with  each  other : 
every  one  plunders  his  neighbour.  The  inha- 
bitants of  the  plains  go  completely  armed  to  the 
labours  of  the  field.  The  crops  are  also  guarded 
by  armed  men.  No  Circassian  poet  can  there- 
fore celebrate  the  peaceful  occupation  of  the 


(2)  Pallas's  Travels  through  the   Southern  Provinces,  &c.  vol.  I, 
p.  408. 

(3)  Gen.  xvi.  19. 


4  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

CHAP,  plough,  since  with  them  it  is  a  warlike  employ- 
ment.  The  sower  scattering  seed,  or  the  reaper 
who  gathers  the  sheaves,  is  constantly  liable  to 
an  assault  ;  and  the  implements  of  husbandry 
are  not  more  essential  to  the  harvest,  than  the 
carabine,  the  pistol,  and  the  sabre1. 


Of  all  the  Circassian  tribes,  the  LESGI,  inha- 
biting the  mountains  of  Daghestan,  ranging 
nearly  parallel  to  the  Western  coast  of  the 
Caspian,  bear  the  worst  reputation.  Their  very 
name  excites  terror  among  the  neighbouring 
principalities,  and  it  is  used  as  a  term  of  reproach 
by  many  of  the  natives  of  Caucasus.  Different 
reports  are  naturally  propagated  concerning 
a  people  so  little  known  as  the  Circassians  in  ge- 
neral; and  perhaps  half  the  stories  concerning  the 
Lesgi  are  without  foundation  in  truth.  All  the 
inhabitants  of  Caucasus  are  described  by  their 
enemies  as  notorious  for  duplicity,  and  for  their 
frequent  breach  of  faith  ;  and  it  is  through  the 
medium  of  such  representation  alone  that  we 
derive  any  notion  of  their  character.  But,  placing 
ourselves  among  them,  and  viewing,  as  they 
must  do,  the  more  polished  nations  around  them, 
who  seek  only  to  enslave  and  to  betray  them, 


(0  The  same   remark  is  applicable  almost  all  over  the   Turkish 
empire. 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  45 

we  cannot  wonder  at  their  conduct  towards  a 
people  whom  they  consider  as  tyrants  and 
infidels.  Examples  of  heroism  may  be  observed 
among  them,  which  would  have  dignified  the 
character  of  the  Romans  in  the  most  virtuous 
periods  of  their  history.  Among  the  prisoners 
in  the  Cossack  army,  we  saw  some  of  the  Circas- 
sians who  had  performed  feats  of  valour,  perhaps 
unparalleled.  The  commander-in-chief,  General 
Drascovitz,  maintained,  that  in  all  the  campaigns 
he  had  served,  whether  against  Turks  or  the 
more  disciplined  armies  of  Europe,  he  had  never 
witnessed  instances  of  greater  bravery  vhan  he 
had  seen  among  the  Circassians.  The  troops 
of  other  nations,  when  surrounded  by  superior 
numbers,  readily  yield  themselves  prisoners  of 
war  ;  but  the  Circassian,  while  a  spark  of  life 
remains,  will  continue  to  combat,  even  with  a 
multitude  of  enemies.  We  saw  a  Circassian 


chief  in  the  prison  at  Ekaterinedara,  about  thirty-  stance  of 
five   years   of   age,   who  had   received  fifteen  aSrcZ- 
desperate  wounds  before  he  fell  and  was  made  Slan' 
prisoner,  having  fainted  from  loss  of  blood.     This 
account  was  given  to  us  by  his  bitterest  enemies, 
and  may  therefore  surely  be  trusted.     He  was 
first  attacked  by  three  of  the  Cossack  cavalry, 
It  was  their  object  to  take  him  alive,  if  possible, 
on  account  of  his  high  rank,  and  the  consideration 
in  which  he  was  held  by  his  own  countrymen. 


46  THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

Every  endeavour  was  therefore  used  to  attack 
him  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  endanger  his  life. 
This  intention  was  soon  perceived  by  the  Circas- 
sian, who  determined  not  to  surrender.  With 
his  single  sabre,  he  shivered  their  three  lances 
at  the  first  onset,  and  afterwards  wounded  two 
of  the  three  assailants.  At  length,  surrounded  by 
others  who  came  to  their  assistance,  he  fell, 
covered  with  wounds,  in  the  midst  of  his  enemies, 
fighting  to  the  last  moment.  We  visited  him  in 
his  prison,  where  he  lay  stretched  upon  a  plank, 
bearing  the  anguish  of  his  terrible  wounds  with- 
out a  groan.  They  had  recently  extracted  the 
iron  point  of  a  lance  from  his  side.  A  young 
Circassian  girl  was  employed  in  driving  flies  from 
his  face  with  a  green  bough.  All  our  expressions 
of  concern  and  regard  were  lost  upon  him :  we 
offered  him  money,  but  he  refused  to  accept  of 
it,  handing  it  to  his  fellow-prisoners  as  if  totally 
ignorant  of  its  use. 


In  the  same  place  of  confinement  stood  a  Cir- 

Women. 

cassian  female,  about  twenty  years  of  age,  with 
fine  light  brown  hair,  extremely  beautiful,  but 
pale,  and  hardly  able  to  support  herself,  through 
grief  and  weakness.  The  Cossack  officers  stated, 
that  when  they  captured  this  woman  she  was  in 
excellent  health ;  but  that  ever  since,  owing  to 
her  separation  from  her  husband,  she  had  refused 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  47 

all  offer  of  food  ;  and,  as  she  pined  daily,  they  CHAP. 
feared  she  would  die.  It  may  be  supposed  we 
spared  no  entreaty  with  the  Commander-in-chief 
for  the  release  of  these  prisoners.  Before  the 
treaty  of  peace  they  had  been  offered  to  the 
highest  bidder,  the  women  selling  generally  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  roubles  apiece;  somewhat 
less  than  the  price  of  a  horse.  But  we  were 
told  it  was  now  too  late,  as  they  were  included 
in  the  list  for  exchange,  and  must  therefore 
remain  until  the  Cossacks,  who  were  prisoners  in 
Cir cassia,  were  delivered  up.  The  poor  woman 
in  all  probability  did  not  live  to  see  her  husband 
or  her  country  again. 

Another  Circassian  female,  fourteen  years  of 
age,  who  was  also  in  confinement,  hearing  of  the 
intended  exchange  of  prisoners,  expressed  her 
wishes  to  remain  where  she  was.  Conscious  of 
her  great  beauty,  she  feared  her  parents  would 
sell  her,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country, 
and  that  she  might  fall  to  the  lot  of  masters  less 
humane  than  the  Cossacks.  The  Circassians  fre- 
quently sell  their  children  to  strangers,  parti- 
cularly to  Persians  and  Turks.  Their  princes 
supply  the  Turkish  seraglios  with  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  prisoners  of  both  sexes  captured 
in  war. 


THROUGH  KUBAN  TAHTARY, 

In  their  commerce  with  the  Tchernomorski 
Cossacks,  the  Circassians  bring  considerable  quan- 
with  the  tities  of  wood ;  also  the  delicious  honey  of  the 
morM.°~  mountains,  sewed  up  in  goat-skins  with  the  hair 
on  the  outside.  These  articles  they  exchange 
for  salt,  a  commodity  found  in  the  neighbouring 
lakes,  and  of  a  very  excellent  quality.  Salt  is 
more  precious  than  any  other  kind  of  wealth  to 
the  Circassians:  it  constitutes  the  most  acceptable 
present  it  is  possible  to  offer  them.  They  weave 
mats  of  very  great  beauty :  these  find  a  ready 
market  in  Turkey  and  in  Russia.  They  are  also 
ingenious  in  the  art  of  working  silver  and  other 
metals,  and  in  the  fabrication  of  guns,  pistols, 
and  sabres.  We  suspected  that  some  weapons 
offered  for  sale  had  been  procured  from  Turkey, 
in  exchange  for  slaves.  Their  bows  and  arrows 
are  made  with  inimitable  skill :  the  arrows,  being 
tipped  with  iron,  and  otherwise  exquisitely 
wrought,  are  considered  by  Cossacks  and  by 
Russians  as  inflicting  deadly  wounds. 

skni fa          One  of  the  most  important  accomplishments 

Horse- 

the  inhabitants  of  these  countries  can  acquire,  is 
that  of  horsemanship ;  and  in  this  the  Circassians 
are  superior  to  the  Cossacks,  who  are  nevertheless 
justly  esteemed  the  best  riders  known  to  Euro- 
pean nations.  A  Cossack  may  be  said  to  live  but 


TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA.  49 

upon  his  horse ;  and  the  loss  of  a  favourite  steed  CHAR 
is  the  greatest  family  misfortune  he  can  sustain, 
The  poorer  sort  of  Cossacks  dwell  beneath  the 
same  roof  with  their  horses,  lie  down  with  them 
at  night,  and  make  them  their  constant  com- 
panions. The  horses  of  Circassia  are  of  a  nobler 
race  than  those  of  the  Cossacks :  they  are  of  the 
Arab  kind,  exceedingly  high  bred,  light  and 
small.  The  Cossack  generally  acknowledges  his 
inability  to  overtake  a  Circassian  in  pursuit. 

The  brother  of  Mr.  Kovalensky  of  Taganrog,  by  state  of 
cultivating  the  friendship  of  one  of  the  Circassian  i 
Princes,  passed  over  the  mountainous  ridge  of 
CAUCASUS  in  perfect  safety  and  protection. 
According  to  his  account,  a  stranger,  who  has 
voluntarily  confided  in  the  honour  of  a  Circassian, 
is  considered  a  sacred  trust,  even  by  the  very 
robbers  who  would  cross  the  Kuban  to  carry  him 
off  and  sell  him  as  a  slave,  if  they  chanced  to  find 
him,  in  their  predatory  excursions,  out  of  their 
own  dominions.  Since  this  account  was  written, 
one  of  our  countrymen,  Mr.  Mackenzie,  passed 
the  defile  of  CAUCASUS,  previous  to  a  campaign 
in  which  he  served  with  the  Russian  army  in 
Persia.  His  escort  consisted  of  an  hundred 
infantry  and  fifty  Cossacks,  with  a  piece  of  artil- 
lery. During  thirteen  days  spent  in  the  passage, 


50  FRONTIER  (JF  CIRCASSIA. 

CHAP,  the  troops  were  under  the  necessity  of  main- 
taining a  most  vigilant  watch,  and  their  rear  was 
frequently  harassed  by  hovering  hordes  of  Circas- 
sians. The  result  of  his  observations  tends  only  to 
dispute  the  accuracy  of  those  of  Mr.  Kovalensky. 
According  to  Mr.  Mackenzie  s  opinion,  no  reliance 
whatsoever  can  be  placed  upon  the  supposed 
honour  or  the  promises  of  a  people  so  treacherous 
and  barbarous  as  are  the  tribes  inhabiting  this 
chain  of  mountains. 


CHAP.  II. 


JOURNEY  ALONG  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CIRCASSIA, 
TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS. 

Quarantine — Second  Excursion  into  Circassia — Departure 
from  Ekaterinedara — Produce  of  the  Land — Division, 
of  the  River — Mosquitoes — General  Appearance  of  the 
Circassian  Territory  —  Watch-Towers  —  CIMMERIAN 
BOSPORUS  —  Temrook  —  Text  of  Stralo  and  Pliny 
reconciled — Fortress  and  Ruins — Sienna — Remarkable 
Tomb — Antiquity  of  Arches — Milesian  Gold  Bracelet—* 
Origin  of  Temples — CEOPE — Fortress  of  Taman — i 
Taman — -Ruins  of  Phanagoria — Tmutaracan — Amphi-< 
theatre — Other  Remains-~-Prekla  Vblcano~-Inscriptions 
at  Tamant 

IN  the  commerce  carried  on  between  the 
Circassians  and  the  Tchernomorski,  a  sort  of  qua- 
rantine is  observed,  trivial  in  its  nature,  and 
negligently  guarded.  The  exchange  of  corn, 
honey,  mats,  wood,  and  arms,  for  the  salt  of 

VOL.  II.  E 


52  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,    the   Cossacks,   is   transacted  without   contract; 
v    •»•  .'  the  wares  of  the  Circassians  being  placed  on  the 
ground  where  they  find  the  salt  ready  stationed 
for  barter.     But,  owing  to  the  very  great  prox- 
imity of  the  parties  during  all  this  intercourse, 
and  to  the  danger  of  communicating  infection 
by  handling  the  different  articles  for  sale  while 
they  are  bartering,  the  plague,  if  it  existed  in 
Circassia,  might  very  readily  be  communicated 
to  the  TchernomorsJci.     It  is  true,  that,  except 
at  Ekaterinedara,  they  seldom  cross  the  river  to 
each  other's  territory,   during  the  profoundest 
peace;   for  so  great  is  their  mutual  jealousy 
and  their  hatred  of  each  other,  that  quarrels 
and  skirmishes  would  be  the  inevitable  conse- 
quence of  more  general  communication.     Whe- 
ther it  be  owing  to  their  frequent  hostilities, 
to  the  great  rapidity  of  the  Kuban,  or  to  the 
domestic  habits  of  the  Cossacks,  is  uncertain ; 
but  fishing  seemed  to  be   entirely  neglected, 
notwithstanding  their  favourable  situation.    The 
only   boats    used    upon    the    river    are    those 
canoes   before  mentioned;    each  consisting  of 
one  entire  piece  of  wood,  being  scooped  out  of 
a  single  tree. 

second  On  the  evening  of  the  last  day  of  our  resi- 

Excursion 

into  dr-     dence  in  E hater inedara,  we  again  obtained  per- 

cassia.  .  .  .  t 

mission  from  the  Commander-in-chief  to  make 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  53 

an  excursion  into  Circassia.    The  number  of  the    CHAP. 
natives  upon  the  opposite  shore  was  then  much 
diminished ;  we  could  discern  only  a  few  strag- 
glers;  and   w*e   hoped  to  collect   some   plants 
for  our  herbary.     General  Drascovitz  himself 
attended  us  to  the  water's  side,  and,  having  sent 
over  a  party  of  Cossacks,  retired  with  several  of 
his  troops  to  the  high  grounds  on  the  northern 
bank  of  the  river,  in  order  to  keep  a  look-out, 
for  our  safety.    The  cannon  stationed  on  these 
heights  had  a  very  extensive  range  over  the 
opposite,  country.     We   were    ordered,   if  we 
heard   a  gun   fired,   to   effect   our   retreat   as 
speedily  as  possible.    We  landed,  and  found, 
near    the    river,    the    Glycyrrhiza    glabra,    the 
Rubus  ccesius,  and  Common  Agrimony,  Agrimonia 
Eupatoria.     The    appearance    in    the   swampy 
plain  before  us   did  not  promise  a  better    or 
a  more   copious   selection,  and  we    therefore 
entreated  the  Cossacks  to  venture  with  us  to  the 
woods,  apparently  within  a  short  walk  to  the 
south.    This  our  guard  positively  refused ;  and, 
continuing  our  search  more  immediately  under 
the  cannon  of  Ekaterinedara,  we  presently  found 
they  had  good  reason  for  so  doing,  as  upwards 
of  sixty  Circassians  made  their  appearance  from 
among  some  willows.     At  our  approach,  they 
all  collected  together,  making  a  great  noise, 
and  asking  us  several  questions  in  a  loud  tone, 

E2 


54  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,  perhaps  not  otherwise  menacing  than  that  we 
did  not  understand  their  language.  Irritated  as 
they  had  been  by  the  events  of  the  late  war, 
rio  confidence  could  have  been  placed  in  their 
courtesy,  even  if  any  had  been  manifested ;  for 
although  hospitality  among  savage  nations  be  a 
sacred  duty,  revenge  is"  not  less  an  object  of 
their  veneration1.  We  therefore  reluctantly 
retired,  and,  once  more  regaining  our  canoes, 
for  ever  bade  adieu  to  a  country  which  seemed 
to  baffle  every  project  that  could  be  devised  by 
mere  travellers  for  its  investigation.  Nothing 
less  than  an  army,  at  this  time,  coutd  have 
enabled  us  to  penetrate  farther :  and  even  with 
such  an  escort,  like  Derion  in  Egypt,  our  obser- 
vations might  have  been  restricted  to  the  limits 
of  the  camp  in  which  we  must  have  lived. 


(1)  "  Among  the  Circassians,  the  spirit  of  resentment  is  so  great, 
that  all  the  relatives  of  the  murderer  are  considered  as  guilty.  This 
customary  infatuation  to  avenge  the  blood  of  relatives  generates  most 
of  the  feuds,  and  occasions  great  bloodshed,  among  all  the  tribes  of 
CAUCACASUS ;  for  unles  pardon  be  purchased,  or  obtained  by  inter- 
marriage between  the  two  families,  the  principle  of  revenge  is  propa- 
gated to  all  siK-eeding-generations.  The  hatred  which  the  mountainous 
nations  evince  against  the  Russians  in  a  ereat  measure  arises  from  the 
same  source.  If  the  thirst  of  vengeance  is  quenched  by  a  price  paid  to 
the  family  of  the  deceased,  this  tribute  is  called  Tlilil-  Uasa,  or  The  price 
of  blond :  but  neither  Princes  nor  Usdens  accept  of  such  a  compensation, 
as  it  i-.  an  established  law  among  them  to  demand  blood  for  blood," 
Pallas't  Travels,  vol.  I.  p.  405. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  55 

Leaving  Ekaterinedara,  to  pass  along  the  CII-AP. 
Russian  line,  we  crossed  the  steppes  to  Vydnia, 
a  military  station.  Notwithstanding  the  mi- 
merous  videttes  and  garrisoned  places  guarding  terineilara- 
the  frontier,  we  were  desired  to  increase  the 
number  of  our  escort.  A  post  route  is  esta- 
blished throughout  this  boundary  of  the  empire, 
and,  in  general,  it  is  well  conducted.  The 
Russian  line  from  the  Black  Sea  towards  the 
east,  continues  along  the  north  side  of  the 
Kuban,  and  from  that  river  to  the  Kuma,  which 
is  swallowed  in  mounds  of  drift-sand  before  it 
can  reach  the  Caspian ;  thence  by  the  north 
of  the  Caspian,  through  the  country  of  the 
Kirgissians*,  and  by  the  river  Ural,  on  to  the  lake 
Baikal,  the  river  Amour,  and,  by  the  frontier  of 
China,  to  the  Oriental  Ocean.  Afterwards  it  is 
continued  to  the  north,  as  far  as  Kamtchatka. 
Throughout  this  vast  boundary,  a  regular  post, 
and  military  stations,  may  be  found :  but  the 
traveller,  in  the  more  northern  part  of  it,  instead 
of  horses  for  his  conveyance,  would  be  supplied 
with  large  dogs. 


(2)  The  country  of  Kirgiss  is  divided  into  three  parts;  Little 
Kirgissj  Middle  Kirgiss,  and  the  Grand  Kirgiss.  The  two  first  only, 
with  a  few  villages  south  of  the  Baikal,  are  subject  to  Russia.  But 
the  greater  part  of  the  country  of  the  Kirgissians  is  entirely  inde- 
pendent; and  its  inhabitants  are  vagrants,  living  wholly  in  waggons. 
The  people  of  Bochdrd,  or  Jiucharia,  lead  a  better  mode  of  life.  They 
have  several  considerable  towns.  Their  capital  is  SARMACAND,  , 


56  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP.        Qur  journey  conducted  us,   as  usual,  over 
y,,    y,    ;  immense   plains :    these   seemed   to   be    inter- 
minable, and  they  are  destitute  of  the  smallest 
elevation.     The  soil  between  Ekaterinedara  and 
Produce  of  pydnia  was  very  rich.     We  saw   some  good 

the  Land.          y 

wheat,  barley,  oats,  millet,  rye,  maize,  and  a 
great  quantity  of  large  thistles  among  the  grass, 
a  well-known  proof  that  land  is  not  poor.  All 
sorts  of  melons  and  grapes  were  thriving  in  the 
open  air.  From  Vydnia  to  Mechastovskoy,  and 
to  Kara  Kuban1,  we  observed,  principally,  grass 
land,  with  occasional  patches  of  underwood, 
containing  young  oaks :  among  these  we  found 
red  peas  and  vines,  growing  wild.  The  post- 
master at  Mechastovskoy  refused  to  change  a 
note  of  five  roubles^  because  it  was  old,  and  had 
been  much  in  use.  Hereabouts,  we  observed  a 
noble  race  of  dogs,  like  those  of  the  Morea,  and  of 
the  province  of  Abru-Lio  in  Italy ,  guarding  the 
numerous  flocks.  The  villages  were  also  filled 
with  these  dogs,  owing  to  their  utility  in  giving 
alarm  during  the  nocturnal  incursions  of  the 
Circassians.  We  also  saw  several  of  a  gigantic 
breed,  resembling  the  Irish  Wolf-dog.  From 
Kara  Kuban  our  route  lay  chiefly  through  fens 
filled  with  reeds  and  other  aquatic  plants. 


(0  Each  of  these  latter  places  is  nothing  more  than  a  single  hut, 
scooped  in  an  antient  tomb. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  57 

The  air  was  excessively  sultry  and  unwhole-    CHAP. 
some.     At  length  we  reached  a  division  of  the  v — ^ — > 
river  which  insulates  the  territory  of  Taman:  the  River. 
here,  crossing  by  a  ferry,  we  came  to  Kopil, 
another   military  station.     The   branch  of  the 
river  where  this  ferry  is  stationed  bears  the 
name  of  PROTOCKA,  and  it  falls  into  the  Sea  of 
Azof.     The  other  branch  retains   the  original 
appellation  of  KUBAN,  and  falls  into  the  Black 
Sea.     The  Isle  of  Taman,  separating  the  two,  is 
the   territory   opposed   to   the  Promontory   of 
Kertchy  in  the  Crimea,  constituting  those  Straits 
called,   from  the  earliest  ages,   the   Cimmerian 
Bosporus*.     At  Kofiilwe  found  a  General-officer, 
who  had  married  the  daughter  of  one  of  the 
Tchernomorski.     He  shewed  to  us  some  of  the 
subalterns'  tents,  full  of  dirt  and  wretchedness. 
In  the  Colonel's  tent,  who  was  absent,  we  saw 
a  table  beautifully  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl 
and   ivory.     Asking   where    it  was  made,  we 
were  told  it  had   been  purchased  of  the  Cir- 
cassians, who  are  very  ingenious  in  such  arts. 
The   General   said,    significantly,    he   preferred 
Kopil  to  Petersburg; — any  place,  we  inferred, 
rather  than  the  residence  of  the  Emperor  PAUL. 

(2)  "  Bosporus  Cimmerius,  ut  Strabo  putat,  nomen  hoc  a  Cimbris 
sortitus  est.  Sed  ego  falli  eum  arbitror:  Cimmeriae  eniin  nomen 
niultb  antiquius  et  ab  Homeri  temporibus  cognitura  fuit."  Deacript. 
Tartar,  p.  234.  L.  Bat.  1630. 


58  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

Few  situations  could  surpass  Kopil  in  wretch- 
edness. Bad  air,  bad  water,  swarms  of  mos- 
quitoes, with  various  kinds  of  locusts,  beetles, 
innumerable  flies,  lizards,  and  spotted  toads, 
seemed  to  infest  it  with  the  plagues  of  Egypt. 
Horses  could  not  be  hired;  but  the  General 
accommodated  us  with  his  own.  As  we  left 
Kopil,  we  quitted  also  the  river,  and  proceeded 
through  marshes  to  Kalaus.  In  our  way,  we 
caught  some  small  ducks,  and  saw  also  wild 
geese.  At  Kalaus  were  two  young  elks,  very 
tame ;  and  we  were  told  that  many  wild  ones 
might  be  found  in  the  steppes  during  the 
spring. 

In  the  course  of  this  journey,  as  we  ad- 
vanced from  Ekaterinedara,  frequent  stands  of 
lances  announced,  at  a  distance,  the  comfort- 
able assurance  of  the  Tchernomorski  guard ;  with- 
out this,  the  herds  of  cattle  in  the  steppes, 
amounting  to  many  thousands,  would  be  con- 
tinually plundered  by  the  Circassians.  Those 
Cossacks  pass  the  night  upon  the  bare  earth, 
protected  from  the  mosquitoes  by  creeping  into 
a  kind  of  sack,  sufficient  only  for  the  covering 
of  a  single  person :  beneath  this  they  lie  upon 
the  thistles  and  other  wild  plants  of  the  steppes. 
At  Kalaus  there  was  rather  a  strong  body  of 
the  military.  From  this  place  to  Kourky  the 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS,  59 

distance  is  thirty-five  versts\  Night  came  on ;  -CHAP. 
but  we  determined  to  proceed.  No  contrivance 
on  our  part  could  prevent  millions  of  mosqui- 
toes  from  filling  the  inside  of  our  carnage: 
in  spite  of  gloves,  clothes,  and  handkerchiefs, 
they  rendered  our  bodies  one  entire  wound. 
The  excessive  irritation  and  painful  swelling 
caused  by  the  stings  of  these  furious  insects, 
together  with  a  hot  pestilential  air,  excited  a 
considerable  degree  of  fever2.  The  Cossacks 
light  numerous  fires  to  drive  them  from  the 
cattle  duirng  the  night;  but  so  insatiate  is  their 
thirst  of  blood,  that  swarms  will  attack  a  person 
attempting  to  shelter  himself  even  in  the  midst 
of  smoke.  The  noise  they  make  in  flying 
cannot  be  conceived  by  persons  who  have 
only  been  accustomed  to  the  humming  of  such 
insects  in  our  country.  It  was  indeed  to  all  of 
us  a  fearful  sound,  accompanied  by  the  clamour 
of  reptile  myriads,  toads  and  bull-frogs,  whose 


(1)  Rather  less  than  twenty-four  English  miles. 

(2)  The  mortality  thus  occasioned  in  the  Russian  army,  both  of  men 
and  horses,  was  very  great.     Many  of  those  stationed  along  the  Kubrt* 
died  in  consequence  of  mortification  produced  by  the  bites  of  these 
insects.  Others,  who  escaped  the  venom  of  the  mosquitoes,  fell  victims 
to  the  badness  of  the  air.     Sometimes  the  soldiers  scoop  a  hollow  in 
the  antient  tombs,  to  serve  as  a  dwelling:  at  ether  times  a  mere  shed, 
constructed  of  reeds,  affords  the  ouly  covering  ;  and  in  either  of  these 
places,  during  the  greatest    heat  of  summer,  they  light  large  fires,  in 
order  to  fill  the  area  with   smoke;  flying  to  their  suffocating  ovens,  in 
the  most  sultry  weather,  to  escape  the  mosquitoes.  t 


FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

constant  croaking,  joined  with  the  barking  of 
dogs  and  the  lowing  of  herds,  maintained  in 
the  midst  of  darkness  an  unceasing  uproar.  It 
was  our  intention  to  travel  during  all  hours, 
without  halting  for  any  repose;  but  various 
accidents  compelled  us  to  stop  at  Kourhy  about 
midnight,  a  military  station  like  the  rest;  and  no 
subsequent  sensation  of  ease  or  comfort  has 
ever  obliterated  the  impression  made  by  the 
sufferings  of  that  night.  It  was  near  the  middle 
of  July.  The  carriage  had  been  dragged,  for 
many  miles,  through  stagnant  pools  :  in  fording 
one  of  these,  it  had  been  rilled  with  water  :  the 
dormeuse,  seat,  floor,  and  well,  became,  in  con- 
sequence, covered  with  stinking  slime.  We 
stopped  therefore  to  open  and  to  inspect  the 
trunks.  Our  books  and  linen  were  wet.  The 
Cossack  and  Russian  troops  were  sleeping  upon 
the  bare  earth,  covered  with  sacks:  beneath 
such  a  tester,  a  soldier  permitted  Mr.  Cripps  to 
lie  down.  The  ground  seemed  entirely  alive, 
with  innumerable  toads,  crawling  everywhere. 
Almost  exhausted  by  fatigue,  by  pain,  and  by 
heat,  the  author  sought  shelter  within  the 
carriage,  sitting  in  water  and  mud.  The  air 
was  so  sultry,  that  not  a  breath  of  wind  could 
be  felt;  nor  could  he  venture  to  open  the 
windows,  although  almost  suffocated,  through 
fear  of  the  mosquitoes.  Swarms,  nevertheless, 


^O  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  61 

found  their  way  to  his  hiding-place :  when  he  CHAP. 
opened  his  mouth,  it  was  filled  with  them.  < — /-— ' 
His  head  was  bound  in  handkerchiefs ;  yet 
they  forced  their  way  into  his  ears  and  nostrils. 
In  the  midst  of  this  torment,  he  succeeded  in 
kindling  a  large  lamp  which  was  over  the 
sword-case ;  this  was  instantly  extinguished  by 
such  a  prodigious  number  of  mosquitoes,  that 
their  dead  bodies  actually  remained  heaped  in 
a  cone  over  the  burner  for  several  days  after- 
wards; and  perhaps  there  is  no  method  of 
describing  the  nature  of  such  an  afflicting 
visitation  better  than  by  the  simple  statement 
of  this  fact.  To  the  truth  of  it,  those  who 
travelled  with  him  will  bear  indisputable 
testimony. 

The  northern  bank  of  the  Kuban,  being  every-  General 
where  elevated,  presents  a  very  extensive  view,  of^iTov8. 
across  those  marshy  plains  of   Circassia  lying  Territory, 
towards  the  river,  of  the  mountainous  ridges  of 
CAUCASUS.     As  morning   dawned,    we  had    a 
delightful  prospect  of  a  rich  country  upon  the 
Circassian  side,   something  like  South  IFales,  or 
the  finest  parts  of  Kent ;  pleasing  hills,  covered 
with  wood ;  and  fertile  valleys,   cultivated  like 
gardens.     A   rich   Circassian  Prince,    the   pro- 
prietor of  this  beautiful   territory,  frequently 
ventured     across    the    Kuban,    as    we    were 


62  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER,  " 

CHAP,  informed,  to  converse  with  the  guard.  On  the 
v.  -r-.  ,'  Russian  side,  the  scenery  is  of  a  very  different 
description;  particularly  in  the  journey  from 
Kalaus  to  Kopil,  where  it  is  a  continual  swamp. 
Jn  travelling  through  it,  tall  reeds,  the  never- 
failing  indication  of  unwholesome  air,  rose  above 
the  roof  of  our  carriage,  to  the  height  of  sixteen 
or  twenty  feet.  Sometimes,  for  many  miles, 
we  could  see  no  other  objects  ;  nor  were  other 
sounds  heard  excepting  the  noise  of  mosqui- 
toes, and  the  croaking  of  toads  and  frogs. 
Watch-  Upon  the  elevated  land  nearer  to  the  river,  and 

Towew.       •        -I  •  i  f     i 

in  the  midst  of  the  military  stations  protecting 
the  line,  observatories  of  a  very  singular 
construction  are  raised,  for  the  purpose  of 
containing  each  a  single  person.  They  resemble 
so  many  eagles'  nests.  Each  of  these  is  placed 
upon  three  upright  tall  poles,  or  trunks  of  trees. 
Here  a  Cossack  sentinel,  standing  with  his  fusil, 
continually  watches  the  motions  of  the  Cir- 
cassians, upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Kuban. 

As  we  left  Kourky,  the  mosquitoes  began  to 
diminish  in  number;  and,  to  our  inexpressible 
joy,  in  the  approach  towards  the  shores  of  the 

Cimmerian    ClMMERIAN     BOSPORUS,     Or    Straits     of    Taman, 

Bosporus. 

they  suddenly  disappeared  altogether1. 

(1)  The  inhabitants  of  Taman  had  never  been  tormented  by  these 
insects ;   but  during  the   night  after  our  arrival,  the   whole  family  with 

whom 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  63 

We  were  now  approaching  countries  con-  CHAP. 
nected  with  the  earliest  history  of  Greece,  and 
the  most  splendid  periods  of  the  Roman  Empire. 
Occasions  to  illustrate  their  interesting  annals, 
by  reference  to  antient  monuments,  might 
indeed  be  few;  but  we  resolved  to  note  every 
occurring  observation,  and  did  not  anticipate 
with  indifference  the  gratification  we  should 
experience  in  traversing  regions  once  the 
emporium  of  Athens;  whence  she  derived  the 
principle  of  her  existence,  as  a  maritime  power, 
Until  the  commerce  of  the  Euxine  passed,  with 
the  liberties  of  Greece,  into  the  hands  of  the 
Romans.  Her  trade  in  the  Euxine  not  only 
supported,  but  enriched  her  inhabitants.  It 
became  the  nursery  for  her  seamen,  and  was 
of  the  utmost  importance  in  the  demand  it 
occasioned  for  her  own  manufactures.  A  very 


whom  we  lodged  were  stung  by  a  few,  which  came  with  us  in  the 
carriage.  England  is,  for  the  most  part,  free  from  this  terrible  scourge, 
as  well  a»  from  the  locwst ;  but  it  is  very  uncertain  how  long  it  may 
continue  so,  as  the  progress  of  both  one  and  the  other,  towards  lati- 
tudes where  they  were  formerly  unknown,  has  been  sensibly  felt  in 
many  countries  within  the  present  century.  Perhaps  in  no  part  of  the 
globe  do  they  abound  more  than  in  Lapland.  When  Acerbi  published  his 
Travels  in  those  regions,  it  was  objected  that  he  had  too  often  mentioned 
the  mosquitoes  ;  yet  there  is  no  circumstance  "which  gives  to  his  writings 
more  internal  evidence  of  truth,  than  the  cause  of  this  objection.  The 
fact  is,  the  real  nature  of  their  afflicting  visitation,  rendering  even  life 
burdensome,  cannot  be  conceived  but  by  persons  who  hare  had  the 
misfortune  to  experience  its  effects. 


64  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,    principal  part  of  this  intercourse  was  confined 
to   the    Cimmerian  Bosporus,   whose   kings   and 
princes  received  the  highest  marks  of  Athenian 
regard.     Many  of  them  were  made  citizens  of 
Athens :  an  honour  esteemed,   in  that  age,  one 
of  the  most  distinguished  that  could  be  con- 
ferred1.   From  periods  the  most  remote — from 
those  distant   ages   when  Milesian  settlements 
were  first  established  upon  the  coasts  of  the 
Euxine — a   trade  with  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country,   extending  even  to  the   Palus  Mceotis 
and   to   the  mouths   of  the    Tanais,  had  been 
carried  on;    and  it  is  perhaps  to  those  early 
colonies  of  Greece  that  we  may  attribute  most 
of  the  surprising  sepulchral  monuments  found 
upon    either   side   of  the  Cimmerian   Bosporus. 
The  Milesians  erected  a  number  of  cities  upon 
all  the  shores  of  the  Euxine,  and  peopled  them 
with   their    own    colonies*.      Other   states    of 
Greece,  and   especially  the  Athenian,   followed 
their  example3.     The  difficulty  of  ascertaining 
the  locality  of  those  ancient  cities  arises  from 


(1)  "  Leuco,  king  of  Thrace,  was  so  much  pleased  thereby,  that  he 
ordered  the  decree,  making  him  an  Athenian  Citizen,  to  be  engraven  on 
three  marble  columns.     One  of  them  was  placed  in  the  Piraeus,  another 
on  the  side  of  the  Thracian   Bosporus,  and  the  third  in  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Urius."     Clarke's  Connexion  of  Coins,  p.  56. 

(2)  Ibid.  (3)  Ibid. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  65 

two  causes;  first,  from  want  of  harmony  among  CHAP. 
those  authors  whose  writings  we  adopt  as 
guides;  secondly,  from  our  ignorance  of  the 
geography  of  the  country.  Not  a  single  map 
has  yet  been  published  with  any  accurate 
representation.  Our  only  guide  to  conduct  us 
in  our  approach  to  the  Bosporus*,  was  the  large 
Basil  edition  of  Pliny,  a  folio  volume,  presented 
to  us  by  Mr.  Kovalensky  of  Taganrog;  a  most 
unexpected  acquisition  in  the  plains  of  Tahtary, 
According  to  the  text  of  that  author,  we  had 
every  reason  to  believe  we  were  not  far  from 
the  situation  of  the  antient  town  of  Cimmerium; 
and  in  this  conjecture  we  were  probably  right. 

At  the  foot  of  a  small  mountain,  near  the 
northern  embouchure  of  the  Kuban,  we  came  to 
a  station  called  Temrook.  This  place  may  be 


(4)  According  to  every  Greek  text,  particularly  that  of  Strabo,  it 
should  be  written  BO2I1OPO2,  implying  "  a  passage  for  Oxen ;"  but  all 
the  Latin  geographers  write  BOSPHORUS.  It  seems  probable  that  the 
original  appellation  was  derived  from  <l>n2*OPOS,  the  most  antient 
name  of  Venus,  whose  fane  was  upon  these  shores.  The  name  of  the 
Hosporus  of  Thrace,  according  to  Eustathius,  in  his  Commentary  on 
Dionysius,  (See  Ox.  Ed.  p.  138,)  was  a  corruption  of  <t>n2<J>OPION ;  but 
perhaps  the  term  was  first  taken,  rather  from  the  Light-  Towers,  or  the 
Volcanic  Fires,  common  to  both  the  Straits,  than  from  the  origin  he  has 
assigned.  The  change  of  <t>  into  B  was  common ;  as  BIAinnoS  for 
«IAinnoS,  BPTTES  for  <&PTTE2,  BEPONIKH  for  <6EPONIKHi  and 
balaena  for  <t>AAAINA. 


}&  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAR  observed  in  the  Russian  maps.  It  is  now  nothing 
more,  however,  than  a  single  hut,  for  the  purpose 
of  supplying  post-horses.  Near  it,  the  very 
year  before  our  arrival,  a  volcano  rose  from  the 
sea,  forming  an  island,  which  afterwards  sunk 
again1.  Temrook  is  mentioned  in  the  notes  to 
the  Oxford  edition  of  Strabo,  in  more  than  one 
instance,  with  allusion  to  the  Travels  of  Motraye, 
and  written  Temrok*.  In  Motraijes  time  it  was 
a  place  of  more  consideration  than  we  found  it. 
He  was  there  in  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century3,  and  describes  it  as  "  considerable  for 
its  commerce,  in  hides,  caviare,  honey,  Circassian 


(1)  The  following  account  of  the  rising  of  this  island  has  been  ex- 
tracted from  Pallas's  Travels.     "  It  was  about  sun-rise,  on  the  fifth  of 
September  (1799),  when  a  subterraneous  noise,  and  soon  after  a  dread- 
ful thundering,  were   perceived  in  the   Sea  of  Azof,  opposite  to  old 
Temruk,  about  one  hundred  and   fifty  fathoms  from  the  shore.     This 
intestine  convulsion  was  speedily  followed  by  a  report  not  unlike  that 
of  a  -cannon  ;    while  the   astonished  spectators,  who  had  attentively 
watched  the  terrific  scene,  observed  an  island,  of  the  form  of  a  large 
barrow,  rising  from  a  cavity  of  the  sea  about  five  or  six  fathoms  deep, 
and  proceeding  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  so  that  it  occupied  a 
space  of  about  one  hundred  fathoms  in   circumference.     At  first   it 
appeared  to  swell,  and  separate  by  fissures,  throwing  up  mire  with 

stones,  till  an  eruption  of  fire  and  smoke  occupied  the  spot 

On  the  same  day,  about  seven  o'clock  P.M.  two  violent  shocks  of  an 
earthquake,  after  a  short  interval,  were  perceived  at  Eliaterinodar,  which 
is  two  hundred  versts  (near  134  miles)  distantfrom  Temruk."     Pallas's 
Travels  in  the  South  of  Russia,  vol.  II.  p.  3 16.     The  same  author  relates, 
that  the  island  sunk  again  before  he  could  visit  it. 

(2)  Strab.  Geogr.  lib.  ii.  p.  722.   edit.  O*wi.  1807. 

(3)  Motraye  was  at  Temrook  in  December  17 1 1 .     See  Trtv.  voh  11. 
p.  40. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  67 

slaves,   and  horses."    He  supposed  its  castle    CHAP. 
stood  where  the  Antients  placed  their  Patrceus ; 
and   "  two   eminences/'   says  he,   "  which  are 
named  The  point  of  the  island,  may  have  been 
their    Acliilleum    Promo ntorium*"      This    seems 
sufficient  to  prove  that  here  was  the  situation  of 
Cimmerium,  stationed,  as  Pliny  mentions,  "ultimo 
in  ostio"     It  had  formerly,  observes  the  same 
geographer,  the  name  of  CERBERION.     Pallas  re- 
marks5, that  Temrook  may  probably  have  been 
the  Cimbricus  of  Strain.     From  this  place  Motraye 
began  his  journey,  when  he  discovered,  in  so 
remarkable  a  manner,  the  ruins  of  a  Greek  city 
in  Circassia,  seeming,  from  an  inscription  he  found 
there,  to  have  been  APATURUS.     All  that  we 
can  collect  from  the  obscurity  involving  this  part 
of  his  narrative,   is,   that,  leaving  Temrook,  he 
turned  to  the  right,  and,  crossing  a  river,  called 
by  the  Tahtars  The  Great  Water  (probably  the 
Kuban),  arrived,  after  a  journey  of  one  hundred 
and  ten  hours6,  at  those  ruins:    also,  that  they 
were   situate  in    a    mountainous  country;  for   he 
observes,  that    the  Tahtars    of  the   mountains 
were  not  so  civil  as  those  of  the  plains.     It 
follows,  therefore,  that  Pliny  is  not  speaking  of 

(4)  Ibid. 

(5)  Travels  through  the  Southern  Provinces,  &c.  vol.  II.  p.  315. 

(6)  The  editor  of  the  Oxford  Strabo  makes  it  five  days  and  six  hours. 
This  is  evidently  a  mistake,  as  will  appear  by  consulting  the  text. 

VOL.  II.  F 


68  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,    the  APATURUS  in  Sindica  mentioned  by  Stralo1. 

ii.  J 

'•    yi.i.'  when  he  couples  it  with  PHAXAGORIA*,  but  of 

a  temple  of  Apaturian  Venus,  belonging  to  that 
Text  of      citv  ^d  noticed  also  by  Strabo3.     Having  thus 

Strabo  and  J  J 

Pliny  re-     removed  one  difficulty,  in  reconciling  the  places 

conciled.  .        *  ' 

on  the  Bosporus  with  the  text  of  these  authors, 
we  may  perhaps  proceed  with  more  facility  and 
precision. 

Fortress          After  leaving  Temrook,  we  journeyed,  prin- 

and  Ruins.  J 

cipally  in  water,  through  an  extensive  morass. 
In  the  very  midst  of  this  are  stationed  the  ruins 
of  a  considerable  fortress,  looking  like  an  old 
Roman  castle,  and  said  to  have  belonged  to  the 
Turks.  At  the  taking  of  this  place,  the  Russians, 
from  their  ignorance  of  the  country,  lost  five 
hundred  men.  In  order  to  attack  an  out-post, 
they  had  a  small  river  to  cross  ;  this  they  ex- 
pected to  pass  on  ice ;  but  the  Turks  had  cut  the 
ice  away,  and  the  water  was  deep.  During  the 
deliberation  caused  by  this  unexpected  embar- 
rassment, the  Turks,  who  were  concealed  behind 
a  small  rampart,  suddenly  opened  a  brisk  fire, 
causing  them  to  leap  into  the  water,  where  they 
were  all  shot  or  drowned.  The  fortress  itself 

(1)  Strab.  lib.ii.  p. 722.  ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  "  Mox  Stratoclia  et  Phanagoria,  et  paeni  desertum  Apaturos." 
Plin.  lib.  vi.  c.  6. 

(3)  Slrab.  lib.  ii.  p.  723.  ed.  Oxon. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  69 


is  a  square  building,  having  a  tower  at  each 
angle,  and  is  still  almost  entire.  It  is  difficult 
to  conceive  for  what  purpose  it  was  erected;  as 
it  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  fen,  without  seeming 
to  protect  any  important  point.  Is  it  possible 
that  such  a  building  can  present  the  remains  of 
CIMMERIUM,  or  even  the  Tmutaracan  of  the 
Russians,  or  any  work  of  high  antiquity  ?  On 
account  of  its  form,  we  should  be  inclined  to 
believe  its  origin  of  no  remote  date:  and  yet, 
that  little  has  been  ascertained  of  the  style  of 
architecture  used  in  the  earliest  periods  of 
fortification,  may  be  proved  by  reference  to  a 
silver  medal,  now-  in  the  author's  collection, 
which  he  afterwards  found  in  Macedonia.  This 
medal  is  of  the  highest  antiquity,  being  rude  in 
form,  and  without  any  legend  or  monogram. 
The  subject  of  it  exhibits  in  front,  within  an 
indented  square,  the  figure  of  a  man,  with  a 
crowned  head,  and  a  poignard  in  his  hand, 
combating  a  lion;  and  the  reverse,  with  very 
little  difference,  may  represent  the  fortress  in 
question4. 

At  the  distance  of  two  versts  from  this  fortress 
we  saw  other  ruins,  with  a  few  antient  and  some 
Turkish  tombs,  and  subterraneous  excavations. 

(4)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 
F2 


70  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP.  Among  these  may  be  recognised  the  identical 
^—  v~  '  antiquities  described  by  Motraye,  in  his  Travels1. 
No  trace  of  any  antient  work  appeared  after- 
wards, excepting  tumuli,  until  we  came  to  the 
Bay  of  Taman.  Then,  upon  the  shore,  imme- 
diately above  some  high  cliffs,  we  observed  the 
remains  of  a  large  fortress  and  town,  entirely 
surrounded  with  tombs  and  broken  mounds  of 
earth,  indicating  evident  traces  of  human  labour. 
The  geography  of  these  coasts  is  so  exceedingly 
obscure,  that  a  little  prolixity  in  noticing  every 
appearance  of  this  kind  may  perhaps  be  tolerated. 
We  soon  reached  the  post-house  of  Sienna, 
actually  scooped  in  the  cavity  of  an  antient  tomb. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  place  we  found 
remains  of  much  greater  importance.  Its  en- 
virons were  entirely  covered  with  tumuli)  of  a 
size  and  shape  that  cannot  fail  to  excite  a 
traveller's  wonder,  and  stimulate  his  research. 


The  commandant  of  engineers  at  Taman,  General 

able  Tomb. 

F'anderweyde,  had  already  employed  the  soldiers 
of  the  garrison  in  opening  the  largest.  It  was 
quite  a  mountain.  They  began  the  work,  very 
ignorantly,  at  the  summit,  and  for  a  long  time 
laboured  to  no  purpose.  At  last,  by  changing 
the  direction  of  their  excavation,  and  opening 
the  eastern  side,  they  discovered  the  entrance 

(l)  Motraye,  torn.  II.  p.  40. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  ? 

to  a  large  arched  vault,  of  the  most  admirable  CHAP. 
masonry.  The  author  had  the  pleasure  to  <  ,• 
descend  into  this  remarkable  sepulchre.  Its 
mouth  was  half  filled  with  earth ;  yet,  after 
passing  the  entrance,  there  was  sufficient  space 
for  a  person  to  stand  upright.  Farther,  towards 
the  interior,  the  area  was  clear,  and  the  work 
perfectly  entire.  The  material  of  which  the 
masonry  consisted  was  a  white  crumbling 
tophus,  of  limestone,  such  as  the  country  now 
affords,  filled  with  fragments  of  minute  shells. 
Whether  it  be  the  work  of  Milesians,  or  of  any 
other  colony  of  Greece,  the  skill  used  in  its 
construction  is  evident.  The  stones  of  the  sides 
are  all  square,  perfect  in  their  form,  and  put 
together  without  cement.  The  roof  exhibits  Antiquity 

of  Arches. 

the  finest  turned  arch  imaginable,  having  the 
whiteness  of  the  purest  marble.  An  interior 
vaulted  chamber  is  separated  from  the  outer 
by  means  of  two  pilasters,  swelling  out  wide 
towards  their  bases,  and  placed,  one  on  each 
side,  at  the  entrance;  the  inner  chamber  being 
the  larger  of  the  two. 

Concerning  every  thing  found  in  this  tomb,  it 
is  perhaps  not  possible  to  obtain  information. 
One  article  alone,  that  was  shewn  to  us  by 
General  Fanderweyde  at  Taman,  may  give  an 
idea  of  the  rank  of  the  person  originally  there 


7;2  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,  interred.  This  was  an  antient  cincture  for  the 
*  -T--_'  ankle,  or  a  bracelet  for  the  wrist,  made  of  the 
Gold"6"  purest  massive  gold.  The  soldiers  employed 
let%  in  the  undertaking  stole  whatsoever  they  deemed 
of  value,  and  were  able  to  conceal ;  destroying 
other  things  not  seeming  to  them  to  merit  pre- 
servation. Among  these  was  a  number  of  vases ' 
of  black  terra-cotta,  adorned  with  white  orna- 
ments. The  bracelet  was  reserved  by  General 
Vanderwcyde,  to  be  sent  to  Petersburg,  for  the 
Emperor's  cabinet;  but  enough  having  been 
said  of  Russia  to  induce  at  least  a  suspicion  that 
so  valuable  a  relic  may  never  reach  its  des- 
tination, a  more  particular  description  of  it  is 
necessary.  Its  weight  equalled  three  quarters 
of  a  pound.  It  represented  the  body  of  a  serpent, 
curved  into  an  elliptical  form,  with  two  heads : 
these,  meeting  at  opposite  points,  formed  an 
opening  for  the  wrist  or  ankle.  The  serpent 
heads  were  studded  with  rubies,  so  as  to  imitate 
eyes,  and  to  ornament  the  back  part  of  each 
head  by  two  distinct  rows  of  gems.  The  rest 
of  the  bracelet  was  also  further  adorned  by  rude 


(1)  A  few  of  these  vases  were  however  sent  to  Moscow  (according  to 
the  account  given  to  us  in  the  country) ;  and  they  were  there  swallowed 
by  the  whirlpool  which  engulphed  in  that  city  all  that  is  dear  to 
literature.  Their  local  history  is  probably  now  lost ;  for  the  Russians, 
iu  their  astonishing  ignorance,  call  all  works  of  this  kind  Etruscan, 
believing  thereby  to  add  to  their  value. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  73 

graved  work.  It  possessed  no  elasticity,  but,  CHAP. 
on  account  of  the  ductility  of  pure  gold,  might, 
with  sufficient  force,  be  expanded  so  as  to  admit 
the  wrist  or  the  ankle  of  the  person  who  might 
wear  it ;  and  probably,  when  once  adapted  to 
the  form,  it  remained  during  the  life-time  of  the 
owner.  We  regarded  this  relic  as  one  of  the 
most  antient  specimens  of  art  perhaps  existing 
in  the  world;  shewing  the  progress  made  in 
metallurgy,  and  in  the  art  of  setting  precious 
stones,  at  a  very  early  period;  and  exhibiting 
a  remarkable  type  of  the  mythology  of  the  age 
in  which  it  was  fabricated;  the  practice  of 
binding  a  serpent  round  the  leg  or  arm,  as  an 
amulet,  being  one  of  the  earliest  superstitions 
common  to  almost  every  nation,  and  which  yet 
exists  in  many  countries.  Immediately  above 
the  stone-work  constructed  for  the  vault  of  the 
sepulchre,  we  observed,  first  a  covering  of  earth, 
and  then  a  layer  of  sea-weed2,  compressed  by 
another  superincumbent  stratum  of  earth,  to  the 
thickness  of  about  two  inches.  This  layer,  of 
sea-weed  was  as  white  as  snow,  and,  when  taken 
in  the  hand,  separated  into  thin  flakes,  and  fell 
to  pieces.  What  the  use  of  this  vegetable 
covering  could  be,  is  now  uncertain :  it  is  found 
in  all  the  tombs  of  this  country.  Pallas  observed 

(2)  Zostcra  marina,  according  to  Pallas. 


74  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,  it  in  regular  layers,  with  coarse  terra-cotta  vases, 
of  rude  workmanship,  unglazed,  and  filled  with 
a  mixture  of  earth  and  charcoal1.  It  is  said  that 
a  large  marble  soros  or  sarcophagus,  the  operculum 
of  which  now  serves  for  a  cistern  near  the 
fortress  of  Yenikale  in  the  Crimea,  was  taken  from 
this  tomb.  The  appearance  of  the  entrance, 
however,  in  its  present  state,  contradicts  the 
story ;  as  the  opening  has  never  yet  been  made 
sufficiently  wide  for  the  removal  of  such  a 
relic,  even  had  it  been  so  discovered.  In  the 
Vignette  to  the  next  Chapter  is  a  representation 
of  that  part  of  the  sarcophagus  at  Yenikale  to 
which  allusion  is  here  made.  That  it  was  taken 
from  one  of  the  antient  tombs  of  the  BOSPORUS, 
is  highly  probable2;  and  its  perfect  coincidence, 
in  point  of  form,  with  an  invariable  model  com- 
mon among  the  sepulchres  of  Greece,  sufficiently 
denotes  the  people  from  whom  it  was  derived. 

Similar  tombs  appear  upon  all  the  shores  of 
the  BOSPORUS.  Close  to  this  now  described, 
are  many  others,  and  some  nearly  of  equal  size. 
Pallas,  in  his  journey  over  this  country,  mentions 
the  frequency  of  such  appearances  around  the 


(1)  Travels  through  the  Southern  Provinces,  &c.  vol.11,  p.  306. 

(2)  Motraye  mentions  having  seen  the  lower  half  of  one,  betwaen 
Taman  and  Tcmrook.     Vol.  II.  p.  40- 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  75 

Bay  ofTaman*.  Indeed,  it  would  be  vain  to  ask  CHAP. 
where  they  are  not  observed :  but  the  size,  the  ^.  »-  ' 
grandeur,  and  the  riches,  of  those  upon  the 
European  and  Asiatic  sides  of  the  Cimmerian 
Straits  excite  astonishing  ideas  of  the  wealth  and 
power  of  the  people  by  whom  they  were  con* 
structed.  In  the  view  of  labour  so  prodigious, 
as  well  as  of  expenditure  so  enormous,  for  the 
purpose  of  inhuming  a  single  body,  customs  and 
superstitions  are  manifested  which  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  origin  of  the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  of  the 
caverns  of  Elephanta,  and  of  the  first  temples  of 
the  antient  world.  In  memory  of  "  the  mighty  Origin  of 
dead,"  long  before  there  were  any  such  edifices 
as  temples,  the  simple  sepulchral  heap  was 
raised,  and  this  became  the  altar  upon  which 
sacrifices  were  offered.  Hence  the  most  antient 
Heathen  structures  for  offerings  to  the  Gods 
were  always  erected  upon  tombs,  or  in  their 
immediate  vicinity.  The  discussion  which  has 
been  founded  upon  a  question  "  Whether  the 
Egyptian  pyramids  were  tombs  or  temples,"  seems 
altogether  nugatory:  being  one,  they  were  ne- 
sarily  the  other.  The  Soros  in  the  interior 
chamber  of  the  greater  pyramid  of  Djiza,  proving 
its  sepulchral  origin,  as  decidedly  establishes 


(3)  Travels  through  the  Southern  Provinces,  &c.  vol.  II.  p.  305,  &c. 


6  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,    the  certainty  that  it  was  also  a  place  of  religious 
worship : 

"  Et  tot  templa  Defim  Romae,  quot  in  urbe  Sepulchra 
Heroiim  nutnerare  licet." l 

The  sanctity  of  the  Acropolis  of  Athens  owed 
its  origin  to  the  sepulchre  of  Cecrops  :  and  without 
this  leading  cause  of  veneration,  the  numerous 
temples  by  which  it  was   afterwards  adorned 
would  never  have  been  erected.     The  same  may 
be  said  of  the  Temple  of  Venus  at  Paphos,  built 
over  the   tomb  of  Cinyras,  the  father  of  Adonis ; 
of  Apollo  Didym&us,  at  Miletus,  over  the  grave  of 
Cleomachus ;  with  many  others,  alluded  to  both 
by  Eusebius*  and  by  Clemens  Alexandrinus3 .     On 
this  account,  antient  authors  make  use  of  such 
words  for  the  temples  of  the  Gods  as,  in  their 
original  and  proper  signification,  imply  nothing 
more  than  a  tomb  or  a  sepulchre.     In  this  sense, 
Lycophron*,  who   affects   obsolete  terms,   uses 
TYMBOI;  and  Firgil5,  TVMVLVS.     It  has  been 
deemed  right  to  state  these  few  observations, 
because  there  is  no  part  of  antient  history  liable 
to  greater  misrepresentation,  than  that  which  re- 
lates to  the  origin  of  temples :  neither  is  it  possible 


(l)  Prudentius,  lib.i.  (2)  Pra?p.  Evang.  lib.  ii.  c.  6. 

(3)  Cohortatio  ad  Gent.  3.  (4)  Lycophr.  Cassand.  v.  613. 

(5)       "  Tumuhnn  antique  Cereris,  sedcnique  sacratam, 

Ycniiuus." jILit.  lib.  ii.  v.  742. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS. 


77 


to  point  out  a  passage  in  all  Mr.  Bryant's  learned 
dissertations,  so  reprehensible,  and  so  contrary 
to  the  evident  matter  of  fact,  as  that  in  which 
this  subject  is  introduced.  Having  afforded  an 
engraved  representation6  of  sepulchres,  exactly 
similar  to  those  excavated  in  the  rocks  of  Asia 
Minor,  exhibiting  inscriptions  which  decidedly 
prove  the  purport  of  their  construction,  he 
nevertheless  exerted  his  extraordinary  erudition 
to  establish  an  erroneous  opinion  of  their  real 
history. 

Sienna1  seems  to  correspond  with  the  CEPVS 
of  Strabo8,  and  Cepce  Milesiorum  of  Pliny9.  The 
Milesian  sepulchres  found  there  in  such  abun- 
dance may  probably  still  further  confirm  this 
position:  but  in  order  to  elucidate  the  text  of 
either  of  these  authors,  reference  should  be 
made  to  better  maps  than  have  hitherto  been 
published.  No  less  than  three  antient  bridges  of 


CEPOK. 


(6)  JSn/ant's  Mythology,  vol.  I.  p. 224.  4to.edit.    I^ondon,  1774. 

(7)  Sienna  is  the  name  of  this  place,  a?  pronounced  by  the  Tcherno- 
morski  Cossacks;  but  they  are  constantly  changing  the  appellation  of 
the  different  places  in  the  country,  and  we  know  iiot  what  name  it  had 
among  the  Tahtars. 

(8)  Lib.  ii.  p.  722.  ed.  Ojcon.      It  is  written  Cepi  in  the  Latin  trans- 
lation ;  and  in  the  Greek  text,    KjJ^e; ;  but,  according  to  the  Notes, 
some  MSS.  read  «/  Kim/.      We  have  written  it  as  it  is  authorised  by  the 
o-iition  of  Pliny  we  chanced  to  have  with  us,  as  well  as  by  Pomponius 
Mela,  and  by  Dlodorux  Simlits. 

(9)  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  vi.  c.  G. 


78  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

stone  lead  to  this  place  from  Taman ;  and  that 
they  were  works  as  much  of  luxury  as  of  neces- 
sity, is  evident,  from  the  circumstance  of  their 
being  erected  over  places  containing  little  or  no 
water  at  any  time.  A  shallow  stream,  it  is  true, 
fjpws  under  one  of  them ;  but  this  the  people  of 
the  country  pass  at  pleasure,  disregarding  the 
bridges,  as  being  high,  and  dangerous  on  account 
of  their  antiquity.  They  consist  each  of  a  single 
arch,  formed  with  great  skill,  according  to  that 
massive  solidity  which  characterizes  works  of 
remoter  ages.  The  usual  bridges  of  the  country 
are  nothing  more  than  loose  pieces  of  timber 
covered  with  bulrushes. 

Near  to  this  spot,  upon  a  neck  of  land 
between  the  great  marsh  or  lake  of  Temrook  and 
a  long  bay  formed  by  the  Euxine,  at  the  di- 
stance of  eighteen  versts  from  the  Ruins  of 
Phanagoria,  stood  a  monument,  composed  of  two 
statues  and  a  pedestal,  with  a  most  interesting 
inscription,  which  has  been  preserved  by  the 
ingenious  Koehler.  The  monument  was  raised 
by  Comosarya,  a  queen  of  the  BOSPORUS,  in  con- 
sequence of  a  vow  she  had  made  to  the  deities 
AXERGES  and  ASTARA'.  The  inscription  has 

(0  "  And  to  Astarte  the  Phenician  God,  alludes  Aestar,  or  Easter, 
that  Saxon  Goddess  to  whom  they  sacrificed  in  the  moneth  of  April ; 
which  Bede,  in  his  book  De  Teniporibus,  styles  Easter  moneth." 
Bochart  Can.  l.i.  c.  42.  fol.  751.  See  Gale's  Court  of  (he  Gentiles, 
p. 124. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS. 

been  communicated  to  me,  with  the  learned 
Koehlers  commentary,  since  the  publication  of 
the  first  edition  of  this  volume2. 

KOMO2APTHrOPr!nnOT©TrATHPIIA!Pl2AAOT2r.NHETSAMENH 
ANE0HKEI5XTPm0E!niSANEPr£IKAIA2TAPAIAPXONT02nAIPl2AAOTS 
BOSnOPOTKAI0ETAOSlH2KAIBASIAETONTOS  ....  fiNKAIMAUnNHA 


History  does  not  mention  Comosarya  ;  but  we 
know,  from  the  inscription,  that  she  was  daughter 
of  Gorgippus,  and  wife  of  Pcerisades,  probably 
P&risades  I.  who  was  son  of  Leucon,  and  suc- 
ceeded his  brother  Spartocus  III.  in  the  fourth 
year  of  Olympiad  cvn.  According  to  Diodorus9, 
this  P&risades  reigned  thirty-eight  years.  It 
appears,  from  a  learned  dissertation  of  M.  Boze, 
that  Ptfrisades,  Satyrus,  and  Gorgippus,  are  the 
tyrants  of  the  BOSPORUS  alluded  to  by  the 
orator  Dinarchus*,  when  he  reproaches  Demos- 
thenes with  having  caused  bronze  statues  to  be 
erected  in  honour  of  those  sovereigns,  in  the 
public  square  at  Athens.  This,  and  the  pre- 
ceding marble,  tend  to  confirm  what  we  read  in 
Strabo*,  Diodorus6,  and  Lucian\  that  from  the 


(2)  By  Charles  Kelsall,  Esq.  of  Trinity  College,   Cambridge,  who, 
during  his  travels  in  this  country,  pursued  the   author's  route,  with 
unabated  zeal,  and  with  enterprise  which  was  only  subdued  by  the 
sacrifice  of  his  health. 

(3)  Lib.  xvi.  cap.  52. 

(4)  Demosthen.  Oral.  p.  34.   ed.  Reiske.' 

(5)  Lib.  xi.  p.  758. 

(6)  Lib.  xx.  cap.  22. 

(?)  In  Macrob.  cap.  xvii.  p.  123. 


80  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP,  time  of  Spartocus  I.  to  Asander,  who  was  invested 
with  the  regal  authority  by  Augustus,  the  go- 
vernment of  the  BOSPORUS  was  partly  republican; 
for  Parisades  is  styled  Archon  of  the  BOSPORUS, 
and  the  chief  magistrate  is  termed  Hegtmon  by 
Strabo,  and  Ethnarchus  by  Lucian. 

The  deities  AXERGES  and  ASTARA  are  Syro- 
Chalda'ic.  AXERGES  is  probably  the  same  as 
the  deity  NERGEL,  or  NERGAL,  mentioned  in 
Scripture',  the  Moloch  of  the  Ammonites,  the 
Remphah  of  the  Egypticms,  and  Hyperion  of  the 
Greeks.  ASTARA  is  the  Chaldaic  and  Phoenician 
ASTAROTH,  the  Alilat  of  the  Arabs,  the  Isis  of 
the  Egyptians,  the  Syrian  deity  mentioned  by 
Lucian,  and  the  Atergatis,  Astar&,  and  Selcn£  of 
the  Greeks. 

It  was,  then,  to  the  two  great  luminaries  of 
heaven  that  Comosarya  dedicated  her  monument, 
probably  to  implore  them  to  grant  her  fruitful- 
ness  in  marriage2. 


Fortress  of       \V"e  passed  the  new  fortress  of  Tainan,  in  our 

Taman- 


.    (l)  2  Kings,  xvii.  30. 

(2;  It  is  observable  that  2XTPH.I  is  in  the  singular  number,  which 
Is  an  error  in  the  engraver  of  the  marble  :  and  for  0ATEilN,  Koehler 
proposes  QATEPX1N. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  81 

way  to  the  town,  distant  about  two  versls3. 
Workmen  were  then  employed  upon  the  build- 
ing. It  is  an  absurd  and  useless  undertaking, 
calculated  to  become  the  sepulchre  of  the  few 
remaining  inscribed  marbles  and  Grecian  bas- 
reliefs,  daily  buried  in  its  foundation.  As  a 
military  work,  the  most  able  engineers  view  it 
with  ridicule.  An  army  may  approach  close  to 
its  walls,  protected  from  its  artillery  by  a 
natural  fosse,  and  even  unperceived  by  the 
garrison.  The  Russians  begin  to  be  convinced 
of  the  bad  policy  which  induced  them  to  extend 
their  frontier  into  this  part  of  ASIA.  The  defence 
of  the  line  from  Ekaterinedara  to  Taman,  not 
half  its  extent  between  the  Caspian  and  the 
Black  Sea,  required,  at  the  time  we  passed,  an 
army  of  fifty  thousand  men4,  whose  troops, 
from  unwholesome  climate  and  bad  water,  con- 
sidered the  station  little  better  than  a  grave. 
The  country  itself  yields  no  profit;  for  it  consists, 
principally,  of  swampy  or  barren  land,  and 
serves  only  to  drain  Russia  of  soldiers,  who 


(3)  There  is  a  fortress  with  a  Russian  garrison,  of  whom  the  Cossacks 
complain  heavily,  as   infamous  thieves.    Our  carriage  was  guarded 
every  night  by  a  Cossack  sentinel  with  his  lance."      Heler't  MS. 
Journal. 

(4)  That  is  to  say,  during  a  period  of  war.     In  ordinary  times,  the 
number  is  by  no  means  so  considerable.    Mr.  Hebcr  makes  the  whole 
guard  of  the  cordon  only  equal  to  5000  men. , 


82 


FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 


CHAP,  might  be  better  employed.  The  natural  boun- 
daries  offered  by  the  Black  Sea,  the  Sea  of  Azof  , 
and  the  Don,  with  a  cordon  from  that  river  to 
Astraclian,  would  much  better  answer  the  pur- 
poses of  strength  and  dominion. 


Arriving  at  Taman,  we  were  lodged  in  the 
house  of  an  officer  who  had  been  lately  dismissed 
the  service  ;  through  whose  attention,  and  that 
of  General  Vanderweyde,  the  commander  of 
engineers,  we  were  enabled  to  rescue  from 
destruction  some  of  the  antiquities  condemned  to 
serve  as  materials  in  constructing  the  fortress1. 
The  General  conducted  us  to  the  ruins,  whence 
they  derive  masses  of  marble  for  this  purpose  ; 
and  called  them,  as  they  really  appeared  to  be, 
"  The  Ruins  of  the  City  of  PHAXAGORIA." 
They  extend  over  all  the  suburbs  of  Taman; 
the  ground  being  covered  with  foundations  of 
antient  buildings  ;  frequently  containing  blocks 
of  marble,  fragments  of  sculpture,  and  antient 
medals.  Of  the  medals  procured  by  us  upon 
either  side  the  BOSPORUS,  few  are  common  in 
cabinets.  One  especially,  found  in  or  near 


Ruins  of 

Phanago- 

Ha. 


(l)  As  these  have  been  already  described  in  the  account  published 
of  the  Greek  Marbles,  deposited,  since  our  return,  iu  the  Vestibule  of 
the  Public  Library  of  the  University  of  Cambridge,  it  is  only  necessary 
now  to  refer  to  that  work  ;  and  to  say,  that  the  articles  described  in 
Nos.  I.  IV.  V.  VI.  XXIV.  in  pages  I,  4,  46,  came  from  this  place. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  83 

Toman,  deserves  particular  notice ;  as  it  seems  CHAP. 
to  confirm  what  has  been  said  respecting  the 
situation  of  Phanagoria,  It  is  a  small  silver 
medal  of  that  city,  of  great  antiquity,  and  per- 
haps unique  ;  there  being  nothing  like  it  in  the 
Collection  at  Paris,  nor  in  any  other  celebrated 
cabinet  of  Europe.  In  front,  it  exhibits  the 
head  of  a  young  man,  with  the  kind  of  cap 
described  in  a  preceding  page  of  this  volume2: 
upon  the  reverse  appears  a  bull,  butting,  with 
a  grain  of  corn  in  the  space  below  the  line  upon 
which  the  animal  stands,  and  above  it  are  the 
letters  <PANA.  When  we  consider  the  destruc- 
tion of  antient  works,  so  long  carried  on  in 
Toman  and  in  its  neighbourhood,  we  may  rea- 
sonably wonder  that  any  thing  should  now 
remain  to  illustrate  its  former  history.  So 
long  ago  as  the  beginning  of  the  last  century, 
it  was  observed  by  Motraye  that  the  remains  of 
antiquity  were  daily  diminishing3.  Between 


(2)  See  Note  1.  p.  30. 

(3)  "  We  took  up  our  lodging  that  night  at  Taman,  and  set  out 
the  25th,  early  in  the  morning;  and  I  observed  nothing  remarkable 
between  this  town  and  Temrook,  but  some  yet  considerable   ruins, 
which  were  likely  to  become  less  so  every  day,  by  their  continued  diminu- 
tion, occasioned  by  the  inhabitants  of  these  two  places  carrying  off, 
from  time  to   time,  part   of  them,  to  build  magazines,  or  lay  the 
foundations  for  some  houses.     By  their  situation,   they  seemed    ot 
me  to   have  been  those  of  the  Phanagoria  of  the  Antients,  if  it  was 
not  at  Taman ;  but  I  could  not  find   either   inscriptions  or  basso- 
relievos  to  give  me  any  further  insight  into  it.     Hard  by  the  highway, 

VOL.   IJ.  (;  near 


84  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

Taman  and  Temrook,  he  saw  the  lower  part  of  a 
Soros ;  and  perhaps  the  cistern  at  Yenikale  was 
the   upper   part    of  this,    that  is   to   say,    its 
operculum\     When   a  traveller   has   reason  to 
suspect  that  he  is  upon  or  near  to  the  site  of 
antient    cities,   an    inquiry   after    the   cisterns 
used  by  the  inhabitants  may  guide  him  to  very 
curious  information :  to  this  use  the  Soroi  have 
been    universally    applied ;    and    upon    those 
cisterns  antient  inscriptions  may  frequently  be 
discovered.    Another  cause  of  the  loss  of  antient 
monuments  at  Taman,  originated  in  the  esta- 
blishment of  a  colony  of  Russians  at  a  very 
early  period,  when  the  city  bore  the  name  of 
Tamatarcan,  or  Tmutaracanz .     Near  the  gate  of 
the  church-yard  of  Taman  lies  a  marble  slab, 
with  the  curious  inscription  which  ascertains 
the  situation  of  that  antient  principality  of  Russia, 
once  the  residence  of  her  princes.    We  had  the 
satisfaction  to  see  this  stone,  and  to  copy  the 
inscription:  it  has  already  been  illustrated  by 
the  writings  of  Pallas,    and  by    a   celebrated 
Russian  antiquary,  who  published,  in  his  own 


near  a  well,  there  is  a  sort  of  a  long  and  large  chest  of  hard  stone,  as 
valuable  as  marble,  aud  without  a  cover,  almost  like  the  tombs  at 
Lampsaco."  Motr  aye's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  40. 

(1)  Pallas  says  it  was  brought  from  the  Isle  of  Taman.     See  vol.  II. 
p.  285. 

(2)  "  The  name  in Theodosius's  Itinerary  is  Tamatarca.  Tmutaracau 
means  literally  The  Swarm  of  Beetles."     Heber's  MS.  Jouriutl. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  85 

language,  a  valuable  dissertation  upon  the 
subject3.  It  would  be  therefore  superfluous  to 
say  more  at  present  of  this  valuable  relic, 
than  that  it  commemorates  a  mensuration  made 
upon  the  ice,  by  Prince  Gleb,  son  of  Vladimir, 
in  the  year  1065,  of  the  distance  across  the 
Bosporus  from  Tmutaracan  to  Kertchy ;  that  is 
to  say,  from  Phanagoria  to  Panticap&um :  this 
is  found  to  correspond  with  the  actual  distance 
from  Taman  to  Kertchy.  The  words  of  the 
inscription  are  to  the  following  effect :  "  In  the 
year  6576  (10(35),  Indict.  6.  Prince  Gleb  measured 
the  sea  on  the  ice;  and  the  distance  from  Tmutaracan 
to  Kertchy  was  30,054  fathoms."  Pallas  relates, 
that  the  freezing  of  the  Bosporus,  so  that  it 
may  be  measured  upon  the  ice,  is  no  uncommon 
occurrence4;  a  circumstance  which  confirms  the 
observations  made  by  antient  historians,  and 
also  proves  that  degrees  of  temperature  do  not 
vary  according  to  those  of  latitude ;  both  Taman 
and  Kertchy 5  being  nearer  to  the  equator  than 

(3)  Aleksye  Musine   Puchk'ine,  one  of  the  members  of  the  Privy 
Council  in  Russia,  published  an  elucidation  of  the  inscription,  and  of 
the  principality  of  Tmutaracan,  accompanied  by  a  map  explanatory  of 
the  geography  of  antient  Russia.     Petrop.  1794,  quarto.      See  also 
Pallas' s  Travels  in  the  South  of  Russia,  Hfc.  vol.  II.  p.  300. 

(4)  Ibid.  vol.  II.  p.  289,  300. 

(5)  These  towns  are  situate  in  latitude  45.     Venice  is  about  half  a 
decree  nearer  to  the  North  Pole.     Naples  and  Constantinople  are,  with 
respect  to  each  other,  nearly  on  the  same  line  of  latitude  ;  yet  snow 
falls  frequently,  during  winter,  in  the  latter  city,  but  is  seldom  seen 
in  the  former. 

G  2 


86  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP.    Venice,  where  the   freezing   of  the  sea  would 

v— v '  be  considered  as  a  prodigy.     The   cavalry  of 

Mithradates  fought  upon  the  ice,  in  the  same 
part  of  the  Bosporus  where  a  naval  engagement 
had  taken  place  the  preceding  summer1. 

Amphi-         Among  the  other  antiquities  of  Taman,  one 

theatre. 

of  the  most  remarkable  is  a  Naumachia*,  or 
amphitheatre  for  exhibitions  of  naval  combats. 
This  is  not  less  than  a  thousand  paces  in 
diameter,  and  the  whole  of  its  area  is  paved. 
Its  circular  form  is  everywhere  surrounded  by 
ruins  and  by  the  foundations  of  buildings, 
sloping  towards  the  vast  reservoir  in  the  centre. 
A  wide  opening  upon  one  side  seems  to  have 
afforded  the  principal  entrance.  The  pavement 
of  the  area,  consisting  of  broad  flat  stones,  is 
covered  by  earth  and  weeds.  The  subterra- 
neous conduits,  for  conveying  water,  still 
remain;  but  they  are  now  appropriated  to 
other  uses.  One  of  these,  beneath  the  church, 
is  kept  in  order,  for  the  use  of  the  priests. 
When  the  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea  first  arrived 
in  their  new  settlement,  they  caused  water  to 
flow  into  this  immense  reservoir,  for  their 

(1)  Strab.  lib.vii.  p.  444.    ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  Naumachia  was   a  name  frequently  used  by  tbe  Antients  to 
signify  tbis  kind  of  theatre.      "  Semel  triremi  usque  ad   proximo* 
Navmachve  bortos  subvcctus  est."     Suetonius  in  VitA  Tib. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  87 

cattle ;  but  afterwards  becoming  stagnant,  and  CHAP. 
proving  extremely  unwholesome,  it  was  again  *•  .  .->,..  ,./ 
drained.  Crossing  this  area  towards  the  mains  </" 
south,  the  remains  of  a  temple  appear,  of  con-  j^J".a~ 
siderable  size,  built  after  the  Grecian  model. 
Here  the  workmen  employed  in  the  fortress 
discovered  a  considerable  quantity  of  antient 
materials ;  such  as  marble  columns,  entabla- 
tures (many  with  inscriptions),  marble  bas- 
reliefs,  and  other  pieces  of  sculpture;  these 
they  have  buried  in  the  foundation  of  that 
edifice,  or  destroyed  in  making  lime3.  Near 
the  ruins  of  this  temple  are  also  those  of  some 
other  public  edifice,  which  must  have  been  of 
prodigious  size,  for  its  remains  cover  a  great 
extent  of  ground.  The  marble,  and  other  stone, 
in  the  antient  buildings  of  Phanagoria  are 
substances  foreign  to  the  country:  the  Isle  of 
Taman  produces  nothing  similar.  The  materials 
found  here  were  brought  either  from  the  Crimea, 
from  Greece,  or,  in  later  ages,  by  the  Genoese 
from  Italy.  Among  fragments  of  those  extra- 
neous substances,  we  observed  upon  the  shore 
even  the  productions  of  the  mountain  Vesuvius; 
and  could  readily  account  for  their  appearance, 
having  often  seen  the  Genoese  provide  ballast 


(3)  An  entablature,  broken  for  this  purpose,  is  described  in  p.  46  of 
the  Account  of  the  Greek  Marbles  at  Cambridge,  No.  XXIV. 


88  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

CHAP.  for  their  vessels  in  the  Bay  of  Naples,  where  the 
*•  v  — '  beach  is  covered  by  volcanic  remains.  These 
Volcano,  substances,  found  upon  the  Bosporus,  may  here- 
after be  confounded  with  the  productions  of  a 
volcano  distant  only  twenty-seven  miles  from 
Toman,  called,  by  the  Tahtars,  Coocoo  Obo :  the 
Tchernomorski  give  it  the  name  of  Prekla1.  The 
eruptions  of  Prekla,  although  accompanied  by 
smoke  and  fire,  have  not  yet  been  followed  by 
any  appearance  of  lava.  The  result  has  been  a 
prodigious  discharge  of  viscous  mud.  An  ex- 
plosion took  place  on  the  27th  of  February 
1794,  at  half  past  eight  in  the  morning;  and 
was  followed  by  the  appearance  of  a  column  of 
fire,  rising  perpendicularly,  to  the  height  of 
fifty  fathoms  from  the  hill  now  mentioned.  This 
hill  is  situate  in  the  middle  of  a  broad  angular 
isthmus,  upon  the  north-east  side  of  the  Bay  of 
Taman,  distant  eight  miles  from  that  place,  in 
a  direct  line  across  the  water,  and  only  ten 
from  Yenihale  on  the  Crimean  side  of  the  Bos- 
porus. The  particulars  of  this  extraordinary 
phenomenon  are  given  so  much  in  detail  by 
Pallas*,  that  it  would  be  useless  to  repeat  them 
here.  Observations  upon  volcanic  eruptions  of 


(1)  A  term  used  also  by  the  Malo- Russians,  to  signify  Hell.     It  is. 
remarkable,  that   the    Icelanders    call    their    volcano  Hekla,    which 
perhaps,  in  their  language,  has  the  same  signification. 

(2)  Vol.  II.  p.  3 18. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  89 

mud  have  been  published  by  Mulkr,  and  by 
Kcempfer,  in  Germany,  and  different  travellers 
have  given  an  account  of  similar  phenomena  at 
Makuba  in  Sicily.  At  present  there  is  nothing 
remarkable  to  be  seen  at  Prekla,  excepting 
boiling  springs  within  the  cavities  whence  the 
eruptions  of  fire  and  mud  proceeded;  remaining, 
although  perfectly  cool,  in  a  constant  state  of 
ebullition3. 

Two  marble  columns  were  lying  before  the 
church  at  Taman,  each  consisting  of  one  entire 
block,  about  eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  Their 
capitals  were  of  white  marble,  (although  the 
shafts  were  of  Cipolino,^  beautifully  sculptured : 


(3)  "  We  took  a  ride  with  our  Cossack  host,  to  see  the  mire  foun- 
tains mentioned  by  Pallas.    The  first  thing  we  were  shewn,  was  a 
circular  area,  resembling  the  crater  of  a  small  volcano.    In  the  centre 
was  a  heap  of  stones,  which,  with  the  surrounding  mud,  appeared  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur.     In  one  place  was  a  pool  of  water,  without 
any  particular  taste.     About  500  yards  distant  was  another  circle,  but 
much  smaller,  all  of  soft  mud  ;  and  in  the  centre  was  a  little  hole, 
whence  slowly  bubbled  out  a  nauseous  black  fluid,  like  bilge-water. 
By  treading  on  any  part  of  the  mud,  more  matter  oozed  from  the 
wound  ;  for  the  whole  had  the  appearance  of  one  vast  sore.    We  thrust 
our  sticks  into  the  mud,  but  found  no  bottom  ;  and  on  withdrawing 
them,  a  similar  kind  of  fluid  rose  through  the  apertures  they  had  made. 
There  was  another,  precisely  similar,  at  a  small  distance ;  and  very 
near  this  last,  a  well  of  water,   resembling  that  of  Harrowgate,  in 
taste,  smell,  and  sparkling."         Heber's  HIS.  Journal. 

(4)  Cipolino  is  a  name  given  by  Italians  to  an  impure  marble,  con- 
taining veins  oischistus:  this  decomposes,  and  then  the  mass  exfoliates, 
falling  off  into  flakes,  like  the  coats  of  an  onion. 


90  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 

they  represented  a  ram's  head  at  each  corner, 
with  curving  horns,  causing  a  resemblance  to 
Ionic  capitals.  Almost  all  the  marble  in  Taman 
is  of  the  kind  called  Cipolino.  Near  to  the 
columns  were  two  large  marble  lions,  each 
formed  of  one  entire  mass.  Statues  of  lions, 
sometimes  of  colossal  size,  are  common  upon 
these  shores,  left  by  the  Genoese.  Two  others 
were  stationed  before  the  door  of  the  General's 
house.  Upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Bosporus 
there  are  remains  of  the  same  kind,  particularly 
at  Kertchy  and  at  Yenikale.  Near  this  latter 
place  is  a  colossal  statue  of  this  kind,  lying  in 
the  sea :  it  may  be  seen  in  calm  weather, 
although  under  water.  In  the  wall  of  the 

i  mils  at 

Taman.  church  at  Taman  we  observed  a  marble  slab 
with  an  inscription :  this  we  copied  with  diffi- 
culty, as  it  was  covered  with  plaster. 

1 nOZEIAHNOZ KA 

2.  .  .  EOYZBAZIAEABAZIAEftNMEfANT 

3.  .  .  NTOZBOOZHOPOYTIBEPIONIOYAIO   .  .  . 

4.  ATHNYIONBAZIAEnZPHZKOYHOPI 

5.  KA!ZAPAKAI<f>IAOPOMA!ONPYZ 

6.  .  .  INTATAKAI   .  AH'EXANft NO 

7.  ZflTHPAEYHAMENOZKAOIEPn 

8.  AIO<l>ANTOYnANTIKAnAIT 

It  is  unnecessary  to  offer  a  mere  conjectural 
elucidation  of  an  inscription  which  is  evidently 
so  imperfect :  yet,  even  in  its  present  state,  a 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  91 

valuable  document  is  afforded  by  the  remaining 
characters,  which  may  lead  to  the  illustration 
of  other  inscriptions  found  in  this  country,  as 
well  as  of  the  Bosporian  history.  This  inscrip- 
tion doubtless  refers  to  the  reign  of  Rhescuporis 
the  First;  because,  in  addition  to  his  own  name, 
occurring  in  the  fourth  line,  he  bore  also  the 
name  of  Tiberius  Julius,  which  appears  in  the 
line  immediately  preceding:  this  he  had  assumed 
in  honour  of  the  Emperor  to  whom  he  was 
indebted  for  the  kingdom.  His  son,  Sauromates 
the  First,  did  the  same1.  According  to  a  prac- 
tice among  the  Greeks,  of  taking  the  name  of  a 
Roman  Emperor,  Rhcemetalces  the  First,  of  Thrace, 
assumed  the  pr&nomina  of  Caius  Julius*.  The 
name  of  Diophantus,  in  the  last  line,  had  been 
celebrated  in  the  annals  ofPontus  and  of  Bosporus, 
as  the  name  of  a  General  in  the  army  of 
Mithradates,  who  built  the  city  of  Eupatorium  in 
the  Minor  Chersonesus5 .  It  may  further  gratify 
curiosity,  to  observe  the  singular  mode  of 
spelling  the  word  BOOSPORUS,  in  the  third  line, 


(1)  Professor  Koehler's  copy  of  this  inscription  being  more  perfect 
than  that  which  appeared  in  the  first  edition  of  this  volume,  the  author 
has  been  enabled  to  correct  an  error  in  the  reading.     Sauromates  the 
First  was  son  of  Rhescuporis;  as  appears  by  the  legend  in  its  present 
state. 

(2)  Hist,  des  Rois  da  Bosphore,  par  Gary,  p.  43.     Paris,  1752, 

(3)  Strab.  lib.  vii.  p.  451.    cd.  Ojcon. 


FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER, 
and  the  mention  made  of  the  city  of  Panticap<ewi 
in  the  eighth. 


Seven  other  inscriptions,  found  near  to  this 
church,  and  among  the  ruins  of  Phanagoria, 
have  since  been  communicated  to  the  author, 
by  the  liberality  of  a  Traveller,  whose  name  was 
inserted  in  a  former  page1.  Owing  to  their 
importance  in  illustrating  the  obscure  annals  of 
the  Bosporian  history,  they  are  placed  here, 
together  with  the  observations  made  upon  them 
by  the  learned  Professor  Koehler,  whose  remarks 
upon  the  inscription  discovered  upon  the  bor- 
ders of  the  Lake  of  Tcmrook  have  been  already 
introduced.  The  first  of  these  inscriptions 
occurred  upon  the  pedestal  of  a  statue  of  Venus, 
in  the  garden  of  the  church  at  Taman. 

AIMOYOYfATHPZ  .  .  P  . .  KOYAEPYNHANE 

POAITHIEYEAMENHAPXONTOZZnAPTOKOYTOYEYM 

KAIBAZIAEYONTOZ 

The  first  line  is  defective;  and  cannot  be 
restored,  unless,  by  further  discovery,  we  can 
ascertain  the  genealogy  of  the  wife  of  Spar  focus, 
who  here  probably  commemorates  a  statue  she 
caused  to  be  erected  to  Venus.  It  should  be 

(1)  See  Note  (2)  in  p.  79  of  this  volume. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  03 

observed,    that  Spartocus  is  the   name  of  this     CHAP. 
king,    and     not    2OAPTAKO2,    as    written    by  <— — v — 
Diodorus. 

The  second  was  also  upon  the  pedestal  of  a 
statue  of  Venus  at  Taman.  We  copied  the  same 
inscription;  but  it  was  not  inserted  in  the 
first  edition  of  this  work : 

APIZTIJQNAPIZ 
TO4>flNTOZA<t>POAITH  I 

This,  and  the  two  subsequent  inscriptions,  tend 
to  shew  that  Venus  was  held  in  great  veneration 
in  the  Bosporian  territory. 

*  . 

A  third  was  found  upon  the  pedestal  of 
another  statue  of  Venus  at  Taman  : 

ANEOHKEBAZIAEYONTOZZHAPTOKOYTOYEYMHACY 

A  fourth  was  observed  in  the  garden  of  the 
church  at  Taman  : 

AEYZSAYPOMA 
APXIEPEYZTftNZEP  ...  A 
TIEPINAIOYZZTOA  .  .  .  -QM 
OHPIMENAZEKOE  .  .  .  IONAIEFEIPAZ  .  .  . 
AEITHIAnATOYPIAAIKAOEiEPnZET. 

.  ENTO  .  B 


94  FROM  THE  CIRCASSIAN  FRONTIER 

The  above,  which  is  very  defective,  relates  to 
the  temple  of  VEXUS  APATURIAS.  Sauromates  had 
caused  this  temple  to  be  repaired.  Strabo 
alludes  to  it,  when  he  says ' ,  that,  on  entering 
the  Bay  of  Corocondama,  there  appears,  to  the 
left,  a  temple  dedicated  to  Venus  Apaturias.  He 
adds,  that  in  the  city  of  Pkanagoria  there  was 
another  temple  to  the  same  Deity. 

Upon  the  pedestal  of  a  statue  at  Taman  was 
also  the  following : 

AYTOKPATOPAKAIZAPAE  .  OYAIO 
ZEBAZT  ....  NFlAZHZrHZKAl  .  . 
.   .  .  0AAAZZHZA   .  .  ONTA 

TONEAYTHZZftTHP ETH  . 

BAZIAIZZAAYf  .  . 

This  inscription  records  the  gratitude  of  a  queen, 
perhaps  Dyrgatao,  which  may  be  the  same  as 
Tirgatao,  mentioned  by  Polycenus.  It  appears 
that  she  dedicated  a  statue  to  the  Emperor 
Helvius  Pertinax,  for  having  afforded  assistance  in 
repelling  the  incursions  of  her  enemies.  Koehler 
believes  that  she  was  wife  of  Sauromates  III. 
or  the  widow  of  a  prince  of  some  neighbouring 
state. 

(1)  Vid.  Strabon.  Geog.  lib.  xi. 


TO  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS.  95 

A  sixth  was  upon  a  pedestal,  destined  to 
receive  a  statue  of  Sauromates  I. 

AfAOHl     TYXHI 
TONAnOnPOrONftNBAZIA  .  Y 
NTIBEPIONIOYAIONZAYPOMA 
<J>lAOKAIZAPAKAI<J>IAOPflMAIONEYZ 

BHIO ANEZTPATOZXEIAIAPXOZ 

TONI  .  .  Z  .  .  .  KAIAEZnOTHNANEZTH 
Z 

Sauromates,  commemorated  in  the  above  in- 
scription, was  the  first  of  the  name,  and  suc- 
cessor to  Polemo  I.  In  honour  of  Tiberius,  he 
adopted  the  pr&nomina  of  Tiberius  Julius;  as 
many  medals,  and  two  marbles  discovered  by 
Koehler,  testify.  Rhescuporis  I.  mentioned  in 
a  former  inscription^  was  also  coeval  with 
that  Emperor,  and  assumed  the  same  pr&- 
nomina.  Koehler  thinks  that  this  Sauromates 
was  founder  of  a  fourth  dynasty  in  the  Bos- 
porian  empire.  Anestratus,  in  this  marble,  gives 
to  his  king  the  title  of  Ccesar :  hence  we  may 
form  some  idea  of  the  pomp  of  the  Bosporian 
Court ;  for  besides  the  title  of  King  of  Kings, 
and  the  prcenomina  of  a  Roman  Emperor,  the 
sovereign  assumed  the  title  of  C<esar. 

(2)  See  p.  90,  of  this  volume- 


96  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS. 

A  seventh  came  also  from  the  same  place : 

MMZTflPinnOZOENEOZYriEPTOYriATPOZ 

ANEOHKEAnOAAIlNIArillSIOGETHZAZ 

APXONTOZriAIPIZAAEOZBOZnOPOY 

KAIOEOAOZIHZKAIBAZIAEYONTOZZINAflN 

KAIMAITHNnANTUN 

The  above  commemorates  the  dedication  of  a 
statue  to  Apollo,  by  Mestor  the  son  of  Hippos- 
thenes,  raised  by  him  upon  the  tomb  of  his  father, 
in  the  reign  of  Pcerhades.  From  this  we  may 
collect  the  title  of  the  Bosporian  kings. 

Many  remains  of  a  similar  nature  are  buried 
in  the  foundation  of  the  fortress.  Having  con- 
cluded our  researches  and  our  journey  in  this 
part  of  ASIA,  we  hired  a  boat,  on  the  12th  of 
July,  to  conduct  us  to  Yenikale  in  the  Crimea, 
upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Straits ;  resolving 
to  examine  all  that  part  of  the  Bosporus,  and 
afterwards  to  explore  the  whole  of  TAURICA 
CHERSOXESUS. 


CHAP.  III. 


FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS,  TO  CAFFA. 

Passage  across  the  Straits — YEN  IK  ALE' — Modern  Greeks 
— Marble  Soros  —  Singular  antient  Sepulchre — Pharos 
of  Mlthradates  —  Medals  of  the  Bosporus  —  Rums — 
KERTCHY  —  Tomb  of  Mlthradates—  Vietv  of  the  Cim- 
merian Straits- —  Antiquities  of  Kertchy  —  Account  vf  a 
Stranger  who  died  there  —  Fortress —  Church — Havoc 
made  by  the  Russians  —  Cause  of  the  obscurity  involving 
the  antient  Topography  of  the  Crimea — Departure  from 
Kertchy — Antient  Vallum — Locusts — Venomous  Insects 
—  Gipsies —  Cattle —  Tahtars  —  Vallum  of  ASANDER 
— Arrival  at  CAFFA. 

sailed  from  Taman  on  the  12th   of  July.    CHAP 

in. 
The  distance  to  Yenikale,  on  the  opposite  shore, 


98  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

is  only  eighteen  Russian  versts,  or  twelve  English 
miles.  Prosperous  gales,  and  placid  weather^ 
soon  brought  us  midway  between  the  European 
and  Asiatic  coasts.  As  the  sea  was  tranquil, 
we  profited  by  the  opportunity  to  delineate  the 
view,  both  towards  the  M&otis  and  the  Euxine. 
Dolphins,  in  great  numbers,  played  about  our 
vessel.  These  animals  go  in  pairs;  and  it  is 
remarkable  how  accurately  their  appearance 
corresponds  with  the  description  given  of  them 
Yenikait.  by  Pliny* .  Arriving  opposite  Yenikale,  or,  as  it 
is  frequently  written,  Jenihale 2,  we  found  a 
fleet  of  Turkish  ships  waiting  favourable  winds, 
both  for  Taganrog  and  for  Constantinople.  Soon 
after  we  landed,  we  obtained  lodgings  in  a 
neat  and  comfortable  Greek  mansion,  whose 
owner,  by  birth  a  Spartan,  and  native  of  Misitra, 
was  a  man  of  integrity,  and  considerable  infor- 


(1)  Pirn.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  ix.  c.  8.  —  From  the  Promontory  of  Takil- 
muys,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Bosporus,  Professor  Pallas  obtained  some 
very  interesting  specimens  of  the  blue  phosphat  of  iron,  or  native  irm 
azure:  these  he  afterwards  presented  to  the  author.     This  substance 
lies  deposited  with  animal  remains,  and  generally  occupies  the  cavities 
of  fossil  shells  ;  the  phosphoric  acid  being  communicated  to  the  iron  by 
the  decomposition  of  the   animal  matter.     One  of  those   specimen* 
exhibits  a  crystallization   of  the  phosphat,    in  diverging   tetrahedral 
prisms  with  rhomboidal  bases. 

(2)  Yenikale  is  compounded  of  two  Turkish  or  Tahtar  words,  signi- 
fying New  Castle. 


TO    CAFFA.  99 

mation.  His  wife  was  a  native  of  Paros.  We  CHAP. 
found  their  dwelling  so  agreeable  an  asylum,  IL 
after  our  long  Scythian  penance,  that  we  re- 
mained there  nearly  a  week.  A  wooden  balcony, 
or  covered  gallery,  into  which  their  principal 
apartment  opened,  gave  us  a  constant  view  of 
the  Bosporus,  with  all  the  opposite  Asiatic  coast, 
and  the  numerous  vessels  at  this  season  of  the 
year  constantly  passing  to  and  fro.  As  the  table 
of  our  host  was  free  to  every  comer,  we  dined 
with  people  from  almost  all  parts  of  Greece 
and  Asia  Minor :  their  conversation,  as  they  all 
spoke  the  Italian  language,  was  intelligible  and 
interesting.  The  natives  of  Cephalonia,  a  sturdy 
and  athletic  race,  those  of  the  Morea,  of  the 
islands  of  the  Archipelago,  ofCandia,  the  southern 
coast  of  the  Black  Sea,  Trebisond,  Amasara,  and 
Constantinople,  amused  us  by  the  singularity  of 
their  dress,  as  well  as  by  their  conversation. 
The  house  of  Keridhi,  for  such  was  the  name 
of  our  host,  was  a  sort  of  rendezvous,  where 
they  all  met  once  in  a  year,  in  their  voyage  to 
and  from  Taganrog3.  His  windows  were  full 
of  books,  printed  at  Venice,  in  the  modern  Greek 
language.  His  boys,  during  evening,  read  to 
him  the  popular  poem  of  Erotocritus ;  the  Life 

(3)  Mr.  Heber's  manner  of  writing  this  word  has  been  uniformly 
adopted  throughout  the  present  edition. 
VOL.   II.  H 


100  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  of  Alexander,  with  the  extraordinary  anecdotes 
of  his  horse  Bucephalus;  and  the  History  of 
the  Antient  Kings  of  Byzantium.  Their  mode 
of  pronouncing  Greek  is  much  softer  than  ours, 
rendering  it  more  like  the  Italian',  but  they 
understand  Englishmen,  who  endeavour  to  read 
the  Greek  after  their  manner.  Among  all  the 
Greeks,  the  letter  ft  is  sounded  like  our  V ; 
and  it  is  doubtful  whether  this  were  not  the 
case  in  antient  times '.  The  natives  of  the 
Crimea  still  call  the  town  of  Kertchy  Vospoi\ 
and  the  straits  Vospor,  although  they  write  the 
word  Bospor.  It  may  be  well  to  inquire  into 
the  origin  of  the  very  popular  poem  of  Eroto- 
critus;  since,  although  in  rhyme,  and  certainly 
of  no  antient  date,  the  traditions  and  the  stories 
upon  which  it  is  founded  are  common  among 
all  the  inhabitants  of  Greece.  They  pretend 
that  the  palace  of  Erotocritus  is  still  to  be  seen, 
at  a  place  called  Cava  Colonna,  near  Athens ; 
alluding,  evidently,  to  the  promontory  and  temple 
of  Sunium.  Upon  the  walls  of  Keriahi's  apart- 
ments were  rude  drawings,  representing  sub- 
jects taken  from  Grecian  history :  among  others, 


(1)  The   late  Professor  Parson   believed  that    the  Antient    Creeks 
pronounced  the  /3  as  we  do  ;    and,  in  proof  of  his   opinion,  used  to 
cit*  this  verse  of  Cratinus : 
*O 


TO   CAFFA.  101 

there   was  one   of  Hercules,  in   a   helmet   and 


coat  of  mail,  destroying  the  Hydra;  but  they  v  -y-. 
knew  nothing  of  the  name  of  the  hero,  merely 
saying  that  it  was  the  picture  of  a  warrior 
once  famous  in  Greece,  and  they  related  many 
extravagant  tales  of  his  valour  ;  perhaps  such 
as  once  formed  the  foundation  of  those  poetic 
fables  which  antient  writers  have  handed  down, 
with  higher  authority,  to  modern  times.  The 
heads  of  the  young  Greeks,  both  male  and 
female,  are  full  of  such  stories.  As  they  much 
delight  in  long  recitals,  these  relations  consti- 
tute the  subject  of  their  songs  and  discourses. 
In  the  islands  there  are  vagrant  bards  and 
improvvisatori,  who,  like  Homer  of  old,  enter 
villages  and  towns  to  collect  alms  by  sing. 
ing  or  by  reciting  the  traditions  of  the 
jcountry  . 

If  we  may  judge  of  the  Greeks  in  general,  Modem 

'    Greeks. 

from  a  view  of  them  in  this  part  of  the  Crimea, 
they  are  remarkable  for  cleanliness,  and  for  the 
attention  paid  to  decency  and  to  order  in  their 
dwellings.  The  women  are  perhaps  the  most 
industrious  housewives  upon  earth,  and  entirely 
the  slaves  of  the  family.  Their  cookery  is 
simple  and  wholesome.  We  never  saw  the 
Greek  women  idle.  They  have  no  desire  to  go 

II  2 


102  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

abroad :  if  the  employments  of  the  house  admit 
of  their  sitting  down  for  a  short  time,  they 
begin  to  spin,  or  to  wind  cotton.  Yenikale  is 
almost  wholly  inhabited  by  Greeks.  The  men 
are  for  the  most  part  absorbed  in  mercenary 
speculations  ;  but  the  women  are  gentle, 
humane,  obliging,  and  deserving  of  the  highest 
praise. 

The  fortress  of  YenikaU,  whence  the  place 
has  derived  its  present  name1,  stands  upon 
some  high  cliffs  above  the  town.  In  one  of  its 
towers  there  is  a  fountain.  The  source  of  it 
supplies  a  conduit  on  the  outside,  near  the 
base.  The  stream  flows  in  aqueducts,  from  a 
•spring  said  by  the  inhabitants  to  be  four  miles 
distant  ;  and  it  falls,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
tower,  into  the  operculum  of  an  antient  marble 
Marble  Soros,  alluded  to  in  the  preceding  chapter*. 
This  Soros  is  of  one  entire  mass  of  white  marble, 
weighing  two  or  three  tons :  it  is  now  used  as 
the  public  washing- trough  of  the  town.  They 
relate  a  story,  before  mentioned,  concerning 
its  discovery  in  one  of  the  tombs  of  the  Isle  of 
Taman :  it  is  probably  a  part  of  the  Soros 
alluded  to  by  Motraye,  in  the  account  of  his 

(l)  See  a  former  Note,  p.  98.  (2)  P.  74. 


TO   CAFFA.  103 

journey  from  Taman  to  Temrook*.  From  its 
inverted  position,  we  were  prevented  noticing 
an  inscription  since  discovered  upon  the  top  of 
it,  which  we  have  not  yet  been  able  to  obtain. 
Persons,  residing  there,  assured  us,  that  when 
they  began  the  excavations  at  Taman,  for 
materials  to  build  the  fortress,  the  number 
of  terra-cotta  vases,  and  other  antiquities, 
discovered  by  the  workmen,  was  truly  asto- 
nishing ;  that  soldiers  were  seen  with  antique 
vessels  suspended  by  a  string,  twenty  or 
thirty  at  a  time  :  all  these  have  since  been 
broken  or  dispersed.  Our  host  presented  to 
us  one  small  earthen  vase :  this  a  slave  had 
brought  home,  who  was  employed  with  others 
in  digging  near  the  church  at  Yenikale.  They  singular 

«...  Antient 

lound  a  pit  containing  a  stone  sepulchre,  of  one  sepulchre. 
entire  mass,  but  of  a  cylindrical  form,  shaped 
like  the  mouth  of  a  well,  and  covered  by  a 
slab  of  marble.  In  this  cylinder  they  disco- 
vered an  oval  ball,  the  outside  of  which  was 
a  luting  of  white  cement  resembling  mortar. 
When  they  had  removed  this  exterior  crust, 
there  appeared,  within  the  ball,  the  small 
earthen  vase  now  mentioned  ;  it  was  filled  with 
ashes,  and  closed  by  a  representation  of  the 
Medusas  head,  wrought  in  a  substance  similar 

(3)  See  the  Extract  from  Motraye's  Travels,  in  p.  83  of  this  volume. 


1 04  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

to  the  cement  that  covered  the  vase".  In  their 
care  to  cleanse  the  vessel,  they  had  destroyed 
almost  every  trace  of  some  black  figures  upon 
its  surface.  From  the  rude  structure  of  this 
relic,  and  the  manner  of  its  interment,  so 
different  from  the  practice  used  by  the  Greeks 
at  any  known  period  of  their  history,  or  that 
of  any  other  nation,  it  is  impossible  to  deter- 
mine the  degree  of  antiquity  it  may  possess. 

pharn  of        About  four    miles    from    Yenikale,    towards 

Mithra- 

datet.  the  M&otis,  upon  a  rock  which  projects  into 
the  sea,  is  the  point  where  the  antient  Pharos 
formerly  stood  :  this  spot  is  still  called  by  the 
Greeks  PHANARI,  and  by  the  Russians  $AXAR  ; 
in  either  language  implying  a  Lantern  or  Light- 
house. The  ruins  of  the  old  foundation  are  still 
visible.  Tradition  ascribes  it  to  the  time  of 
Mithradates,  and  the  modern  Greeks  generally 
bestow  upon  it  the  name  of  PHANARI  MITRJ- 
DATI.  It  was  a  work  of  peculiar  necessity, 
although  long  abandoned  ;  since  vessels  coming 
through  the  Straits  are  obliged  to  keep  close  to 
the  Crimean  coast,  for  want  of  water  towards 
the  middle  and  Asiatic  side  of  the  passage. 

(4)  This  circumstance  is  noticed  in  the  account  of  the  Cambridge 
Marbles,  Appendix,  p.  77  ;  where  the  Reader  may  find  the  subject 
of  this  remarkable  symbol,  and  its  purport  iu  the  Heatheu  Mythology, 
briefly  discussed. 


TO     CAFFA.  105 

Accidents  frequently  happen.  A  large  Turkish 
merchant- vessel  was  stranded  upon  the  shallows, 
in  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Bosporus,  while 
we  were  here  ;  and  one  of  the  Russian  frigates, 
passing  up  the  Straits,  was  three  times 
aground  in  view  of  Yenikale. 

The  medals  of  the  Bosporus  are  among1  the  Medals  of 

3  the  Bos2>o- 

most  rare  in  the  cabinets  of  Europe.  We  rus. 
collected  a  few  in  Yenikatt.  Among  these  were 
certain  of  the  Bosporian  kings ;  viz.  one  of 
Ptfrisades,  in  very  small  bronze  ;  one  of  Sauro- 
mates  the  First,  in  bronze,  of  the  middle  size ; 
two  of  Rhescuporis  the  First,  in  small  bronze; 
one  of  Mithradates  the  Second,  rather  larger; 
and  others  whose  real  history  it  would  have 
been  difficult  to  determine,  were  it  not  for  the 
light  thrown  upon  them  by  Sestini1.  Of  the 
latter  description  is  a  small  bronze  medal, 
having  in  front  a  bull,  butting;  and  for  the 
reverse,  a  lamp,  or  light-tower,  with  the  letters 
nAPI.  This  is  proved,  by  the  Kinsley  Collec- 
tion, to  be  a  medal  of  Parium,  although  easily 
mistaken  for  one  of  the  island  of  Paros.  We 
obtained  also  other  bronze  medals :  these  had 
evidently  been  derived  from  the  same  colony  of 
Mysia ;  viz.  an  imperial  medal  of  Galba,  two  of 

(l)  Lettere  e  Diss.  Numis,  sopra  alcune  Medaglie  rare  dell.  Coll. 
Ainsl.  Tav.  1.  torn.  III.  e  Lett.  4.  p.  18. 


106  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

Justinian,    and    one   of   Licinius;    also  a   Latin 
Autonome,   of  great  rarity,  with  the  head  of  a 
Roman  Empress  in  front ;  having  for  the  reverse, 
an   amphora,    with   the    letters    D.  D.    Decreto 
Decurionum.     This  last  would  have  been  wholly 
inexplicable  to  us,  but  for  the  observations  of 
the  learned  Sestini  upon  one  of  a  similar  nature1. 
Concerning  the  representation  given  from  a  fine 
silver  tetradrachm  of  Mithradates  the  Great,  and 
a  small  silver  medal  of  Polemo  the  First,  it  should 
be  said,  that  the  coins  of  these  kings  were  not 
struck  in  Bosporus,    neither    were  they  found 
there.     We  procured  them,  after  we  left  the 
Crimea,  in  the  bazars  of  Constantinople;  but,  on 
account  of  their  beauty  and  extreme  rarity,  as 
well  as  their  intimate  relationship  to  the  series 
of  Bosporian  kings,  a  notice  of  them  may  be  con- 
sidered  an  interesting  addition  to  this  work. 
Our  observations  upon  all  of  them  will  be  brief; 
and  even  these  must  be  reserved  for  a  Note ; 
because  Numismatic  dissertations  involve  dis- 
cussion, alone  sufficient  to  require  a  volume. 
The  Reader  wishing  to  see  the  subject  treated 
more  at  large,  will  find  satisfactory  information 
in  Cory's  History  of  the  Kings  of  the  Cimme- 
rian Bosporus**,    in   the   posthumous    work    of 

(1)  Lettcre  e  Diss.  Numis.  sopra  alcune  Medaglie  rare   dell.  Coll. 
Ainsl.  Tav.  I.  torn.  III.  e  Lett.  4.  p.  22. 

(2)  Histoirc  des  Rois  du  Bosphore  Cimmerien.    Paris,  1752.  4to. 


TO    CAFFA.  107 

Fcdllant* ',  the  dissertation  of  Souciet*  ;  and, 
above  all,  in  the  second  volume  of  Eckhelb ; 
writings,  if  not  compensating,  yet  in  some 
degree  diminishing  the  loss  which  Literature 
has  sustained  in  the  total  annihilation  of  those 
records  of  Trogus  Pompeius,  which  were  calcu- 
lated to  dispel  the  obscurity  of  the  Bosporian 
dynasties6. 


(3)  Achaemenidarum  Imperium,     sive    Regum   Ponti,    Bospori,  &c. 
Histor.  ad  fid.  Numis.  accom.  Vaillant. 

(4)  Hist.   Chronol.  des  Rois  du   Bosphore   Cimmerien,  par  Souciet. 
Paris,  1736.  4to. 

(5)  Doctrina  Numorum  Veterum,  a  Jos.  Eckhel,  Parsl.  vol.  II.  p.360. 
Vindobon.  1794,  quarto  edit. 

(6)  All  the  medals  of  the  family  of  Mithradates,  whether  kings  of 
Pontus  prior  to  the  subjugation  of  the  Bosporus,  or  successors  of  Mi- 
thradates the  Great,  have  their  name   written  MI0PAAATH2,    and   not 
MI0PIAATHS.     It  is  therefore  extraordinary,  that  the  learned  writers,  to 
whose  works  we  have  so  recently  referred,  with  this  fact  before  their  eyes, 
continue  the  corrupted  orthography,  and  write  MITHRIDATES,  which  is 
certainly  not  only  erroneous,    but   wholly   inconsistent    with   the  true 
Oriental  etymology    of   the   word,    derived,    according  to    Vossius  and 
Xcaliger,  from  the  Persian.     (See  Gale's  Court  of  the  Gentiles,  p.  232. 
I  lion.   1669.)       Neither  are  medals  the    only  documents  which  afford 
authority  for  writing  it  Mithradates :  the  inscriptions  on  Greek  marbles 
bear  the  same  legend.     It  is  an  abuse,  however,  which  began  with  the 
Romans  themselves,  and  has  continued   ever  since.     The  same  people 
who  wrote  Massilia  for  MA22AAIA,  and  Massanissa  for  MA22ANAS2A, 
and  deduced  Agngentum  from  AKPAFAS,  would  of  course  write  Mithri- 
dates  for  MI0PAAATHS.     With  the  exception  of  the  portrait  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  perhaps  there  is  no  countenance  expressed  upon  medals  which 
we  regard  with  such  lively  interest  as  that  of  MITHRADATES, — "  Vir"  as 
it  is  sublimely  expressed  by  Velleius,  and  cited  by  Eckhel,  "  neque  silendus, 
neqne  dicendusy    sine  curd,  bello  acerrimus,   virtute  eximius,   aliquando 
fortund,   semper  animo  maximus,    consiliis  dux,    miles   manu,    odio  in 
Romanes  Hannibal."     With  him  the  line  of  Bosporian  kings  begins  in 
regular  order ;  that  is  to  say,  it  is  freed   from  the  uncertainty  which 

belongs 


108  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP.  in  the  short  distance  from  Yenikale  to  Kertchu, 

in. 

<•    v      /  little  more  than  eleven  versts,  or  seven  English 

Rums.  ^  we  0]3Served,  upon  the  cliffs  above  the 


belongs  to  the  series  of  the  first  and  second  dynasty,  in  which  the  succes- 
sion— whether  of  the  Archceana.ctid.ee,  beginning  with  the  year  of  Rome 
267,  and  ending  309,  or  with  the  more  immediate  predecessors  of  Mithra- 
dates, from  Spartocus  (so  written  in  inscriptions)  to  Pa-risades— is  not 
to  be  determined.  Mithradates  began  his  reign  in  Bosporus  by  the  cession 
of  Pcerisades,  in  the  year  of  Rome  639  ;  viz.  one  hundred  and  fifteen 
years  before  Christ.  The  Bosporian  aera  begins  with  the  year  of  Rome 
457  (viz.  two  hundred  and  ninety-seven  years  before  Christ),  and  ends 
in  the  time  of  Constantine  the  Great ;  so  that  the  monarchy  continued  at 
least  eight  hundred  years.  It  is  proper  to  pay  particular  attention  to  this 
circumstance,  as  many  of  the  Bosporian  medals  have  their  dates  upon  the 
obverse  side.  Thracian  medals  have  the  same  peculiarity  :  but  there  is  an 
easy  method  of  distinguishing  a  Thracian  from  a  Bosporian  medal.  Upon 
the  Thracian  medals  the  Omega  is  written  n,,  and  the  Sigma  "S.  Upon 
the  Bosporian,  the  Omega  is  written  (u,  and  the  Sigma  c.  By  due  atten- 
tion to  this  very  evident  criterion,  much  confusion  may  be  avoided. 

Polemo  the  First  succeeded  to  the  throne  of  Bosporus  thirteen  or  twelve 
years  before  Christ.  The  medals  of  this  king  are  extremely  rare.  The 
head  of  Marc  Antony,  or  of  Augustus,  generally  appears  upon  the 
obverse  side,  to  whom  he  was  indebted  for  the  kingdom.  He  was  priest 
of  a  temple  in  Rome  consecrated  to  Augustus,  as  appears  by  a  curious 
inscription  preserved  by  Gary.  (Hist,  des  Rois  du  Bosphore,  p.  41.) 
Immediately  after  Polemo,  succeeded  Sauromates  the  First ;  upon  whose 
medals  we  see  the  interesting  representation  of  the  regalia  sent  from  Rome 
for  his  coronation.  The  letters  MH,  in  a  wreath  or  crown  of  laurel, 
have  not  hitherto  been  explained.  The  medals  of  this  king,  whether  in 
silver  or  bronze,  are  so  rare  as  to  be  considered  almost  unique.  (See 
Eckhel,  Doct,  Num.  Vet.  vol.  II.  p.  370.)  Sauromates,  as  well  as  his 
successor,  Rhescuporis  the  First,  took  the  names  of  Tiberius  Julius,  to 
which  an  inscription  at  Taman  refers.  Pellerin  has  preserved  the 
legend  on  this  medal,  entire.  T.  IOTAIOT  BAC IAEWC  CATPOMATOT. 
Sauromates  and  Rhescuporis  were  kings  of  Bosporus  only.  Rhescuporis 
reigned  in  the  time  of  Tiberius,  and  had  this  legend  on  a  medal  de- 
scribed by  Gary,  and  by  Eckhel  (Doct.  Num.  Vet.  vol.  II.  p.  375)  : 
T1BEPIOC  IOTAIOC  BACIAETC  PHCKOTHOPIC.  Polemo  the  Second 
succeeded  Rhescuporis,  in  the  38th  year  of  our  zcra;  after  whom,  A.  D.  .42, 
came  Mithradates  the  Second. 


TO  CAFFA.  109 

Bosporus,  many  remains  of  antient  buildings  ; 
and  the  prodigious  number  of  tumuli,  every- 
where in  view,  might  be  said  to  resemble  the 
appearance  exhibited  by  the  nodes  upon  the 
outside  of  a  pine-apple.  About  half-way,  upon 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  road,  appeared  a 
stratum  of  limestone,  hewn  in  a  semicircular 
manner,  so  as  to  present  an  area  whose  sides 
were  thirty  feet  perpendicular.  In  the  middle  of 
this  area  we  found  a  deep  well,  hewn  in  the 
solid  rock.  The  Tahtar  peasants  assured  us, 
that  its  sides  were  those  of  a  vast  cylinder  of 
marble,  buried  in  the  soil ;  but  it  was  evidently 
a  channel  bored  through  the  rock.  The  work 
must  have  required  great  labour,  the  depth  to 
the  water  being  at  least  fifty  feet,  without 
including  the  farther  depth  of  the  well :  this 
we  were  unable  to  ascertain.  The  Tahtars 
draw  water  from  it,  by  means  of  a  leathern 
bucket,  for  their  sheep  and  goats. 

The  town  of  Kertchy,  placed  upon  the  site  of 
ancient   Panlicapceum\    is  reduced  to   extreme 


(l)  "  CERCUM  arx  et  oppidum  Tartaricum  Cbauorum  ditionis 
obseurum  et  humile  admodum.  In  ostio  (ut  Strabo  vocat)  Maeotidis, 
ft  ad  earn  angustiam,  qtiam  Bosporum  Ciminerium  ille  cognouiinat  ac 
/ntnttlum  Panticapeium  et  civitatera  sitmil  ab  eo  dictarn,  situin  est. 
Ex  adverse  oppidi  vel  arcis  illius  in  ripa  alterft  nngubtise  illius,  quae 
ajnjilius  unum  milliare  in  latitudiuem  coiitiuetur.  TAMANUM  arx 

niuiiitisbinia; 


110  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  wretchedness  and  insignificance.  Not  long  ago, 
it  was  a  place  of  considerable  consequence. 
The  Russians,  according  to  the  statement  made 
by  several  of  its  inhabitants,  destroyed  five 
thousand  houses.  Even  in  its  ruins,  the  regal 
seat  of  the  Bosporian  Kings,  once  the  residence 
of  Mithradates,  will  ever  be  considered  an  inter- 
esting, if  not  an  important,  place  for  the  re- 
searches of  the  historian.  Our  first  inquiry 
among  the  few  Greeks  settled  here  was  for 
medals:  several  were  brought,  but  for  the  most 
part  much  injured,  and  scarcely  worth  notice. 
We  obtained  one,  however,  in  bronze,  of  a 
different  description:  after  bestowing  a  little 
care  in  removing  the  hard  crust  upon  it,  the 
word  PANTIKAPAIT2  N,  with  every  letter  per- 
fect, might  be  plainly  discerned '.  It  was  said 
to  have  been  found  in  Yenihale.  In  front  appears 


munitissima ;  quam  fortasse  Phanagoriam  appellatam  esse,  propinquis- 
siniam  Asiae  civitatem  ;  a  Milesiis  quondam  conditam  fuisse,  et 
emporium  in  ea  nobile  extitisse  Straboni  placet.  Illae  arces  a  Genu- 
ensibus  quondam  excitata  et  uiunitae  fuisse  videntur,  et  non  ignobile 
presidium  ibi  illi  semper  habueTe.  Cercum  arx  diruta  est ;  nam 
Turcarum  Imperator  in  universa  Taurica  nullam  arcem  aliam  prater 
Perecopiam  ipsam  praesidio  firmare  Tartaro  seu  Chano  permittit. 
Tamanum  arcem,  qua?  in  extremitate  Taurica  sita  est,  et  Petigorensiuin 
amplissimce  provinciae,  quam  Colchidem  Ptolemasus  et  Strabo  vocitant, 
jam  contigua  existit,  seniacus  seu  praefectus  ei  imposito  praesidio  firmo 
perpetuo  earn  munivit."  Descript.  Tartar.  L.  Bat.  1630.  p.  276. 

(1)  Eckhel  (vol.  II.  p.  3)  notices  the  same  remarkable  legend,  as  found 
on  the  medals  of  Panticap&um. 


TO   CAFFA.  HI 

the  head  of  one  of  the  Eosporian  kings  ;  and  for    CHAP. 
the  reverse,  a  horse  grazing,  with  the  legend 
here  given. 


The  traditions  of  Kertchy  are  in  direct  contra-  Tomb  of 
diction  of  History :  they  relate,  not  only  that 
Mithradatcs  died  here,  but  that  he  was  buried 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  town,  where  they 
still  pretend  to  shew  his  tomb2.  It  is  perhaps 
a  Milesian  work ;  but  its  height  and  size  are  so 
remarkable,  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  be- 
lieve it  to  be  the  result  of  human  labour. 
Among  the  Greek  inhabitants  of  Kertchy ,  it  bears 
the  name  of  The  tomb  of  Mithradates.  The 
Russians  are  not  contented  with  shewing  his 
tomb ;  they  also  point  out  his  palace,  and  con- 
duct strangers  for  that  purpose  to  the  top  of  a 
natural  hill  or  mountain  above  the  town.  They 
deceived  General  Suvorofto  such  a  degree,  when 
he  visited  the  place,  that  being  told  it  was  the 
sepulchre  of  so  great  a  hero,  the  veteran 
soldier  knelt  upon  the  ground  and  wept.  We 
visited  the  mound  pointed  out  as  the  tomb  by 
the  Greeks :  it  is  distant  four  versts  from  Kertchy, 
near  to  the  road  leading  to  Cajfa.  The  Tahtars 
call  it  Altyn  Obo:  they  have  a  tradition  that  it 


(2)   Mithradales,  according  to  Appian,   was  buried  by   Pompey  at 
Sinope,  iu  the  coemetcry  of  his  ancestors. 


112  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

contams  a  treasure,  guarded  by  a  virgin,  who 
here  spends  her  nights  in  lamentations1.  It 
stands  upon  the  most  elevated  spot  in  this  part 
of  the  Crimea,  and  is  visible  for  many  miles 
round.  One  thing  concerning  this  tumulus  is 
very  remarkable,  and  may  confirm  the  notion 
entertained  of  its  artificial  origin.  It  is  placed 
exactly  upon  the  vallum  or  inner  barrier  of  the 
Bosporian  empire.  This  work  still  exists  in  an 
entire  state,  having  a  fosse  in  front,  and  passing 
across  this  part  of  the  peninsula,  in  a  northerly 
.direction,  from  the^ltyn  Obo  to  the  Sea  of  Azof . 
Several  other  similar  heaps  of  astonishing  size 
are  situate  near  this  tumulus,  although  it  towers 
above  them  all:  the  plains  below  are  covered 
with  others  of  smaller  dimensions.  Another 
circumstance  is  also  worthy  of  notice  :  beyond 
the  vallum,  to  the  west,  there  are  no  tumuli; 
although  they  be  so  numerous  upon  its  eastern 
side,  that  is  to  say,  within  the  Bosporian  territory : 
neither  are  they  seen  again,  but  very  rarely,  in 
all  the  journey  towards  Cajffa ;  and  before  arriving 
at  that  place,  they  altogether  disappear.  After- 
wards, proceeding  to  the  site  of  Stara  Crim, 


(1)  See  Pallas'*  Travels,  vol.  II.p.281.  It  is  worthy  of  observation, 
that  Pallas,  being  unable  to  reconcile  this  surprising  tumulus  with  any 
reference  to  the  real  history  of  the  interment  of  Mithradates,  or  to  his 
own  notions  of  probability  as  an  artificial  heap,  endeavours  to  account 
for  it  by  a  natural  process. 


TO   CAFFA.  113 

others  may  be  noticed.  The  shape  of  the  Altyn  C^A p- 
Obo  is  not  so  conical  as  usual  in  antient  tumuli; 
it  is  rather  hemispherical.  Its  sides  exhibit  that 
stupendous  masonry  seen  in  the  walls  of  Tiryns, 
near  Argos,  in  the  Morea ;  where  immense  un- 
shapen  masses  of  stone  are  placed  together 
without  cement,  according  to  their  accidental 
forms2.  The  western  part  is  entire,  although 
the  others  have  fallen.  Looking  through  the 
interstices  and  chasms  of  the  tumulus,  and  exa- 
mining the  excavations  made  upon  its  summit, 
we  found  it,  like  the  Cairns  of  Scotland,  to  consist 
wholly  of  stones  confusedly  heaped  together :  its 
exterior  betrayed  a  more  artificial  construction, 
and  exhibited  materials  of  greater  magnitude. 
It  seems  to  have  been  the  custom  of  the  age  in 
which  these  heaps  were  raised,  to  bring  stones, 
or  parcels  of  earth,  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
to  the  tomb  of  a  deceased  sovereign,  or  of  a 
near  relation*.  To  cast  a  stone  upon  a  grave 
was  an  act  of  loyalty  or  of  piety ;  and  an  ex- 
pression of  friendship  or  of  affection  still  remains 
in  the  North  of  Scotland  to  this  effect, f<-I  will  cast  a 
stone  upon  thy  cairn"  The  heap  so  raised  consisted 
of  heterogeneous  substances ;  granite  and  lime- 


(2)  Seethe  excellent  representation,  in  Cell's  Argolis,  of  this  Cyclo~ 
pi-an  work  :  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  greater  fidelity  of  delineation. 

(3)  Aafi/s;    tjctXtVi   sr«vr«    avSga    AI0ON  'ENA    wcioi^totra.    ritiiiicti   if    TO 

TOVTO   %ugtot   ivTat/#«   xohuiovf  n'.yu\tvt   vuv  AjV&y  xecTK%.iiruv 
ffrfUTitit.  Iferudot.  Metyom. 


114  FROM  TH£  CIMiMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  stone,  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks,  pebbles  from 
the  sea-shore  or  from  the  beds  of  rivers,  pro- 
miscuously mixed,  and  frequently  covered  by 
superincumbent  earth.  Stones  were  generally 
used  in  preference  to  earth,  perhaps  because 
they  were  more  readily  conveyed,  and  were 
likely  to  render  the  heap  more  durable.  In  the 
Isle  of  Toman,  where  stones  were  not  easily 
procured,  it  is  curious  to  observe  the  ingenuity 
used  to  preserve  the  tombs  from  decay;  first  by  a 
massive  and  gigantic  style  of  architecture  in  the 

p 

vault;  then  by  a  careful  covering  of  earth;  further 
by  a  layer  of  sea- weed  or  the  bark  of  trees,  to  ex- 
clude moisture ;  and  finally,  by  a  stupendous  heap 
of  such  materials  as  the  country  afforded.     The 
stones  whereof  the  Altyn  Obo  consists  are  all  of 
the  same  nature;  and  perhaps  they  are  all  natural 
to  the  soil.     Near  to  its  eastern  side  is  a  pit, 
probably  formed   by  some   person  wishing  to 
penetrate  to  the  interior  of  this  immense  pile. 
The  Tahtars  have  in  vain  attempted  to  effect  a 
passage :    the  stones   fall  in  as  they  proceed. 
Yet  they  entertain  a  notion,  that  an  entrance- 
was  once  accomplished :  and  they  describe  the 
interior  as  a  magnificently  vaulted  stone  chamber, 
formed  by  enormous  slabs,  seeming  as  if  they 
would  crush  the  spectator.     It  is  remarkable 
that  they  should  use  an  expression  signifying 
vaulted;  because  it  agrees  with  the  style  used  in 
the  interior  of  other  tumuli  upon  the  Asiatic  side 


TO    CAFFA.  115 

of  the  Bosporus,  and  thereby  gives  to  their  nar-    CHAP. 
rative  some  internal  evidence  of  truth ;  yet  they  v.  -y  •> 
may  have  borrowed  this  description  from  similar 
appearances  observed  in  other  tombs,  which  have 
been  opened  and  submitted  to  their  inspection. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  Altyn  Olo  is  one  view  of  the 
of  the  finest  in  the  Crimea.  A  range  of  similar  straits?'" 
heaps  continues  along  the  lofty  ridge  whereon 
this  tumulus  stands,  the  whole  way  to  Kertchy;  the 
last  object  being  the  high  mountain  upon  which 
the  Acropolis  of  Panticapceum  was  placed,  that 
is  to  say,  upon  the  precipice  above  the  sea, 
whence  Mithradates  threw  the  body  of  his  son 
Xiphanes  into  the  waves;  as  there  is  no  other 
spot  so  connected  with  the  site  of  the  city,  as  to 
illustrate  the  text  of  Appian,  who  says  the  deed 
was  done  in  the  view  of  th,e  mother  upon  the 
Asiatic  side  of  the  Strait.  The  palace  of  Mithra- 
dates was  in  all  probability  a  fortress ;  and  the 
traces  of  its  foundation  are  yet  visible,  near  to  a 
small  semicircular  excavation  in  the  rock ;  and 
this  also  is  a  work  of  great  antiquity.  One  of  the 
tombs  in  the  range  I  have  mentioned,  although 
not  so  large  as  that  ascribed  to  Mitkradates,  is 
equally  remarkable.  It  is  the  nearest  to  the 
spectator  in  the  series  ;  the  pretended  tomb  of 
Mithradates,  or  Altyn  Obo,  being  the  last  towards 
the  west,  and  immediately  upon  the  barrier  or 

VOL.  II.  I 


116  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS,, 

CHAP,  vallum,  beyond  which,  as  before  stated,  those 
monuments  cease  to  appear.  It  is  surrounded, 
near  to  its  summit,  with  a  circular  wall  of  stones, 
placed  regularly  together,  without  any  cement. 
Beyond  this  ridge,  and  these  tombs,  the  view 
comprehends  the  whole  of  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus, 
the  harbour  of  Panticap&um,  the  opposite  coast 
of  Phanagoria,  Prekla  volcano,  and  a  great  variety 
of  objects,  among  which,  at  the  time  we  were 
there,  the  passing  fleets  of  European  and  Asiatic 
merchants,  from  all  the  ports  of  the  Black  Sea, 
the  Archipelago,  and  the  Mediterranean,  were  not 
the  least  interesting.  Over  all  the  distant  pro- 
montories towards  the  east;  in  all  the  plains 
below;  and  wheresoever  the  eye  could  roam, 
excepting  beyond  the  Bosporian  vallum,  ap- 
peared the  antient  tumuli  so  often  described. 
These  tumuli,  as  well  as  the  hills,  were  covered 
with  wild  thyme,  which  swarms  of  locusts  were 
devouring.  The  earth  seemed  also  to  be  alive 
with  the  Rana  varidkilis,  a  species  of  toad,  de- 
scribed by  Pallas,  crawling  up  to  the  very 
summits  of  the  highest  hills '.  This  reptile  has 
a  smoother  skin  than  the  common  toad ;  it  is 
smaller,  and  more  active  ;  and  it  is  covered  with 
beautiful  round  spots,  which  lessen  the  horror 

(0  The  Rana  risaloria  is  also  frequently  found  in  this  part  of  the 


TO   CAFFA.  117 

of  beholding,   in  such  abundance,   an  animal    CHAP. 
against  whom  all  mankind  seem  to  entertain  a 
natural  antipathy8. 


There  is,   perhaps,  no  part  of  the  Crimea  Antiquities 

...    £  '  ..        ...         otfertchy. 

where  a  traveller  will  find  so  many  antiquities 
as  in  Kertcky3.    The  peasants  gladly  exchange, 


(2)  Milton  makes  it  the  abode  of  the  infernal  spirit 

"  Him  there  they  found 

Squat  like  a  toad." — —•  ••  Par.  Lost,  B.  iv. 

(3)  "  On  the  22d  of  April  we  found  we  had   exhausted  all   the 
curiosities  of  Taman,  and  determined  to  proceed  directly  to  Kertch, 
and  wait  for  our  carriage  at  Kaffa.    We  were  induced  to  take  this 
step  by  understanding  that  Yenikale"  offered  nothing  remarkable  either 
in  antiquities  or  situation,  and  by  our  desire  to  give  as  much  time  as 
possible  to  Kaffa.    The  regular  ferry-boat  was  then  at  Yenikale",  and 
the  wind  directly  contrary.     For  this  boat  our  carriage  was   obliged 
to  wait:  we  ourselves  obtained  a  fishing-boat  from  the  point  nearest 
Kertch.    From  Phanagoria  to  this  point  is  reckoned  twelve  versts : 
it  is  a  long  narrow  spit  of  sand,  evidently  of  recent  formation,  and 
marked  in  Guthrie's  map  as  an  island.     Even  where  this  terminates, 
is  a  range  of  sand  reaching  like  a  bar  across  almost  half  the  Bosporus, 
and  hardly  covered  with  water,  which  bids  fair  in  time  completely  to 
block  up  the  navigation.     An  immense  quantity  of  sea-fowl  are  seen 
on  every  part  of  the  Straits.    The  prospect  is  perfectly  naked  and 
desert ;  on  one  side  the  bare  downs  and  long  sand  Kossas  of  Taman, 
and  on  the  other  a  bleak  and  rocky  coast,  without  verdure  or  inhabi- 
tants ;  and  the  miserable  fishermen,  who  rowed  us  over,  were  a  very 
fit  group  for  such  a  scene.    From  the  Kossa,  where  we  embarked,  to 
Kertch,  is  reckoned  twelve  versts.     Immediately  opposite  is  a  round 
shallow  bay,  where  was  a  hut  in  which  the  fishermen  occasionally 
slept.     Behind  the  northern  point  of  this  bay  opens  a  much  larger  ; 
where  a  few   miserable  houses,  a  small  church",  and  a  jetty  of  piles, 
point  out  Kertch.    The  most  conspicuous  object  is  a   conical  green 
hill,  either  entirely  or  in  part  artificial,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  seat 
and  a  flag-staff.     The  Russian  officer,  who  took  us  there,  fancied  it 

12  wa8 


118  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS,  1 

CHAP.  for  a  few  copeeks,  the  antient  coins  which  they 
have  discovered  in  the  soil.  The  walls  of  the 
town  are  full  of  broken  and  of  some  entire 
marbles,  with  bas-reliefs  and  inscriptions  neg- 
lected or  ruined.  Some  of  the  latter  are  used 
as  steps  before  the  doors  of  the  houses ;  or  they 
serve,  as  at  Yenikale,  among  other  materials  for 
building.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  have  placed 
antient  Greek  marbles  over  their  doors,  by  way 


was  erected  m  honour  of  Mitbradates,  or  some  of  his  family.  The 
shore  is  very  shelving  and  shallow  ;  and  we  had  the  greatest  difficulty 
to  get  our  boat  within  a  reasonable  distance  of  the  land.  The  Com- 
mandant of  Kertch,  a  Georgian  by  birth,  told  us  that  many  plans  had 
been  given  for  a  harbour  and  quarantine  at  this  place  ;  but  the  present 
scheme  of  making  Kaffa  the  emporium  would  probably  prevent  them. 
Immediately  on  landing,  we  were  accosted  by  a  Russian  priest  with 
the  salutation  X^<r<roV  at'trm.  We  had  before  observed,  that  the 
Cossacks  used  at  this  season  to  salute  foreigners  in  Greek.  The  town 
of  Kertch  is  very  small  and  miserable ;  it  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
Jews.  There  is  one  tolerable  watchmaker,  and  two  shops  in  the 
Bazar,  where  we  saw  some  English  cotton  stuffs.  The  country 
around  is  all  bare  of  trees,  and  their  fire-wood  is  brought  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Eski-Krim,  a  distance  of  perhaps  120  versts.  There 
is  a  spacious  fortress,  and  a  garrison  of  a  Lieutenant-colonel,  a  Major, 
and  four  companies  of  light-infantry.  The  men  were  distinguished 
by  not  wearing  swords,  which  most  Russian  soldiers  do :  the  non- 
commissioned officers  carried  rifles.  I  had  made  some  drawings  and 
memoranda  of  the  antiquities,  which  I  have  lost,  but  which  differed 
in  no  material  point  from  the  account  published  by  Pallas.  The 
most  interesting  are  in  the  wall  of  the  church.  It  is  perhaps  worth 
mentioning,  a*  illustrative  of  national  character,  that  the  Russian 
Major,  who  agreed  to  furnish  us  with  horses,  and  an  open  kibitka  to 
Kaffa,  insisted  on  such  usurious  terms  that  the  other  officers  cried 
out  shame,  and  that  the  same  man  afterwards  squeezed  some  further 
present  out  of  Thornton's  servant.  A  Cossack  would  have  disdained 
such  conduct."  Hcber's  MS.  Journal. 


TO   CAFFA.  119 

of  ornament,  but  without  any  knowledge  of 
their  real  nature,  or  even  common  attention  to 
the  position  of  the  figures;  so  that  they  are 
seen  in  all  directions,  sometimes  lying  sideways 
in  a  wall,  or  wholly  inverted.     A  number  of 
interesting  relics  of  this  kind  were  in  imminent 
danger    of   disappearing   for    ever,   when   we 
arrived :  they  were  collected  as  substances  for 
the  repairs  of  the  church.    We  purchased  three 
very  remarkable  slabs  of  antique  marble,  with 
the  view  of  sending  them  to  Cambridge;  but  a 
dispute   arising    among    the    proprietors    con- 
cerning the  division  of  the  money,  the  bargain 
was  set  aside,  and  the  marbles  were  detained. 
They  have   since  been   described  in  a   work 
published  by  Pallas,  relating  to  his  Travels  in 
the  South  of  Russia,  where  the  reader  will  also 
find  them  accurately  delineated '.    Mr.  Tweddell, 
of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge,  had  recently  vi- 
sited this  country,  and  had  left  with  Professor 
Pallas  his  own  beautiful  transcripts  of  every 


(l)  See  vol.  II.  PI.  XVII,  XVIII.     One  of  these  is  of  very  remote 
date,  referring  to  the  history  of  the  Bosporus  prior  to  the  time  of 
Mithradates  the  Great.     It  has  the  following  inscription : 
BACIAETONTOCnAPPICAAOTTOTCriAPTOKOYAea'CTPATOC 
&c.     Another  inscription  on  a  bas-relief,  written  IIOnAITI€KOC- 
CAXAI,  may  perhaps  be  read  nOHAITieKOCCAXAIPe ;  but  even 
thereby,  the  reading,  although  evidently  that  of  a  Cippus  or  common 
tomb-stone,  is  not  much  illustrated. 


120  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  inscription  found  here:  from  these  documents 
they  were  published  by  the  Professor,  but 
without  any  illustration ;  the  world  having  lost, 
in  Mr.  Tweddelfs  untimely  death,  and  the  sub- 
sequent disappearance  of  his  journals  at  Con- 
stantinople, in  1799,  as  yet  unexplained1,  all  the 
information  his  great  acquirements  enabled  him 
to  afford.  Upon  the  bas-reliefs  of  the  Bosporus, 
the  remarkable  representation  of  an  equestrian 
figure,  attended  by  a  youth,  is  so  often  re- 
peated, that  it  ought  not  to  pass  without 
observation:  it  has  hitherto  received  no  illus- 
tration8. Perhaps  a  passage  in  Herodotus  may 
throw  some  light  upon  the  subject.  He  relates, 
that  the  Scythians  killed  their  slaves  and  finest 
horses,  and,  after  taking  out  their  entrails, 
stuffed  them  with  straw,  and  set  them  up,  as 
equestrian  figures,  in  honour  of  their  kings3. 


Cl)  Since  this  was  written,  Mr.  Tweddelfs  brother,  in  a  work 
entitled  "  Remains  of  the  late  John  Tweddell,"  has  succeeded  in 
completely  developing  the  whole  of  this  mysterious  transaction.  To 
the  surprise  and  indignation  of  all  literary  men  (excepting  those  who 
were  engaged  in  the  transaction),  it  now  appears,  that  a  copy  of 
Mr.  J.  Tweddell's  Grecian  Journal  was  purloined  from  the  original, 
by  persons  to  whose  care  and  honour  it  had  been  confided  ;  but  that 
neither  the  copy  nor  the  original  are  likely  to  appear  before  the  public, 
with  Mr.  Tweddelfs  own  uanie  to  his  productions. 

(2)  A  similar   6gure  is  preserved   among  the   Cambridge  Marbles. 
S«  the  Jecmmt  pubtitfod  at  the  University  Press,  1808.  octavo,  pp.  4, 5. 

(3)  Herodot.  Melp.  72. 


TO   CAFFA.  121 

It  is  from  Panticapaum  that  the  imaginary  CHAP. 
Anacliarsis  of  Barthelemy  is  said  to  have  em- 
barked,  for  his  travels  in  Greece.  Here,  in 
antient  times,  stood  a  temple  of  Msculapms ;  in 
which  was  preserved  the  bronze  vessel  men- 
tioned by  Strabo  as  having  burst  in  consequence 
of  a  severe  frost  upon  the  Bosporus4.  If  any 
future  traveller  should  look  for  the  site  of  that 
temple  where  the  present  church  of  Kertchy 
stands,  he  will  not,  perhaps,  be  far  from  the 
spot.  Upon  the  introduction  of  Christianity, 
and  especially  in  countries  where  it  wholly 
superseded  the  antient  superstitions,  temples 
were  almost  always  made  subservient  to  the 
purposes  of  the  new  religion. 

A  Greek  merchant  of  Kertchy  applied  to  us,  Account  of 
to  purchase  the  books  and  manuscripts  of  a 
person,  who  had  died  there  of  a  consumption  there' 
some  years  before,  and  who  had  been  educated 
in  England.    He  described  the  deceased  as  one 
who  had  employed  all  the  latter  part  of  his  life 
in  writing  an  account  of  the  antiquities  of  the 
Crimea;  who  seldom  conversed,  but  spent  all 
his  time  in  close  application  to  his  studies,  and 
ultimately   died  of  want,  although  he  would 


(4)  Strab.  Geogr.  lib.  ii.  p.  109.    Ed.  Oxon. 


122  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,    not  acknowledge  his  distress.     We  visited  the 

in.  . 

••_    T-    >  cottage  where  his  effects  were  preserved.    Near 

to  a  window  lay  an  odd  volume  of  Ariosto :  this 
we  found  to  be  the  only  book  reserved  for  his 
last  hours,  all  the  rest  being  locked  up  by  himself, 
a  short  time  before  his  death.  In  a  comer  of 
his  miserable  bed-room  stood  an  English  trunk, 
with  its  lock  towards  the  wall.  The  old  woman 
of  the  house  said  she  was  afraid  to  move  it. 
When  we  had  turned  it,  we  found  it  sealed,  and 
a  paper  fastened  across  the  lock,  with  a  long 
inscription  in  modern  Greek,  purporting  that  the 
trunk  should  be  sent  unopened  to  his  brother, 
in  Constantinople :  this  we  immediately  ordered 
to  be  done.  The  inscription  ended  by  menacing 
with  the  vengeance  of  every  saint  and  devil  the 
wretch  who  should  presume  to  break  the  seal, 
and  to  inspect  the  contents  of  this  trunk. 

Fortress.  Entering  the  fortress,  which  is  now  a  ruin, 
we  observed  before  the  gate  a  beautiful  marble 
fountain,  said  to  be  the  work  of  Turks,  but 
composed  of  antient  materials;  exhibiting  not 
only  Turkish  characters,  but  also  Greek  inscrip- 
tions of  more  remote  date.  Over  the  entrance 
is  one  of  the  large  marble  lions  mentioned  in  a 
former  page,  the  devices  of  Genoa.  Marble 
columns,  together  with  fragments  of  marble 
entablatures,  lie  scattered  about,  either  upon 


TO    CAFFA.  123 

the  ground,  or  among  the  stones  used  in  building  CHAP. 
the  walls.  Within  this  fortress  stands  the  v  ..,•'  ,  / 
church,  a  small  building  of  considerable  anti-  church, 
quity.  The  pictures  there  suspended  are 
among  the  earliest  productions  of  Grecian  art 
which  came  with  the  Christian  religion  into  the 
Russian  empire,  and  they  are  probably  coeval 
with  its  introduction.  Four  marble  pillars,  of 
the  Corinthian  order,  support  the  roof  of  this 
building.  According  to  an  inscription  upon  one 
of  them,  the  church  was  erected  in  the  year 
after  Adam  6265,  answering  to  757  of  our  aera. 
It  is  a  building,  therefore,  of  high  antiquity  in 
the  history  of  Christianity,  and  it  proves  the 
extent  of  its  propagation  in  that  early  period. 
There  are  two  smaller  pillars  of  the  same  kind 
placed  above  the  others.  The  priests  shewed 
to  us  a  copy  of  the  Gospels,  written  in  capital 
letters,  upon  coarse  parchment,  quite  black  with 
age  and  with  use.  It  had  been  long  excluded 
from  the  service  of  the  church,  and  a  printed 
version  had  supplied  its  place.  The  priest 
would  gladly  have  sold  it;  and  we  should 
with  equal  pleasure  have  purchased  it;  but, 
as  soon  as  the  Russian  police  heard  of 
our  intention,  its  removal  was  prohibited, 
although  its  destruction  was  inevitable  where 
it  lay;  and  perhaps,  at  this  time,  it  is  no 
longer  in  existence. 


nuns. 


124  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

The  havoc  made  in  all  the  towns  of  the 
Crimea,   during    the    various    revolutions    and 
made  by      the  frequent  change  of  inhabitants  which  the 
country  has  sustained,  has  almost  annihilated 
every  document  likely  to  illustrate  its  antient 
history.     But  among  all  the  devastators  who 
have  hitherto  scourged  this  devoted  land,  none 
have  proved  so  injurious  to  the  interests  of  lite- 
rature as  the  Russians.    We  dare  not  to  mention 
the  high  authority  upon  which  these  facts  were 
communicated :  it  is  sufficient  to  say,  that  an 
individual,   of  all  others  the  best  qualified  to 
afford  the  information,  repeatedly  assured  us, 
that  there  is  no  characteristic  of  a  Russian  more 
striking,    than    that    of    wantonly    destroying 
monuments  which  are   the    most  prized    by 
enlightened  nations.     In  Kertchy,  after  levelling 
to  the   earth  five  hundred  houses,   they  left 
about  thirty  poor  shops  in  the  midst  of  ruins, 
whose  present  owners  it  is  their  daily  practice 
to  defraud.     False  in  all  their  public  engage- 
ments, as  well  as  in  their  private  treaties,  they 
issued  an  ukase,   inviting   Greek  merchants  to 
settle  in  the  town;    but  no  sooner  had  these 
deluded  people  fixed  there  with  their  families, 
than  the  soldiers  pulled  down  the  houses  about 
their  ears,  using,  at  the  same  time,  other  inti- 
midating measures  to  compel  them  to  higher 
duties,  than  any  even  of  the  Russians  themselves 


TO   CAFFA.  125 

have  paid,  to  whom  no  exemptions  had  been 
granted.  Thus  insulted  and  plundered,  the 
Greek  settlers  demanded  permission  to  leave 
the  Peninsula :  this  was  positively  refused.  It 
may  be  asked,  why  so  little  has  been  hitherto 
made  public  concerning  the  real  character  of 
this  very  profligate  people  ?  The  answer  is, 
that  there  is  no  country  where  such  pains 
have  been  used  to  prevent  it.  There  was  no 
instance  of  circumspection  and  of  caution 
in  which  the  late  Empress  CATHERINE  em- 
ployed so  much  artifice,  as  in  concealing 
from  external  observation  the  true  history 
of  her  own  people,  and  the  wretched  state 
of  her  vaunted  empire.  This  is  evident  in  all 
her  correspondence  with  Voltaire;  in  all  her 
instructions  to  her  ministers ;  in  the  glaring 
falsehoods  published  by  her  hired  writers ;  but 
particularly  in  the  work  which  she  with  her 
agents  composed,  in  answer  to  the  writings  of 
the  Abbe  Chappe.  A  party  of  her  Savans  were 
engaged  to  accompany  her  in  a  voyage  down 
the  Volga :  as  they  sailed  along,  she  caused  the 
Abbe's  account  of  his  Travels  in  Russia  to  be 
read,  every  one  present  being  enjoined  to 
contribute  something,  either  of  smart  criticism, 
or  of  contradictory  remark:  the  notes,  so 
collected,  were  afterwards  arranged  by  the 


126  FROM  THE  CIMiMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  celebrated  Akksye  Mus'ine  Puchkine l ;  and  it  is 
this  pic-nic  production  which  now  bears  the 
title  of  "The  Antidote"  We  received  this 
information  from  one  of  the  party  who  was 
actually  present  with  her  upon  that  occasion ; 
and  one  who  also  added  his  own  share  to  the 
undertaking.  Nothing  could  be  more  deceitful 
than  the  false  glitter  of  the  Court  of  Petersburg 
in  the  time  of  CATHERINE.  Pompous  plans  of 
improvement  seemed  to  be  the  subject  of  daily 
conversation,  and  were  industriously  propagated 
in  foreign  countries ;  but  they  existed  only  upon 
paper;  like  the  number  of  the  troops  which 
Russia  has  so  often  affected  to  muster  in  the 
service  of  her  allies ;  or  like  the  numerous 
governments  and  garrisons,  whose  mere  names 
serve  to  occupy  the  void  spaces  upon  the  maps 
of  her  desolated  territories2. 

(1)  The  name  is  here  given  according  to  the  Russian  mode  of  writing 
it;  substituting  only  English  letters  ;  as  it  appears  in  his  own  account 
of  the  Taman  Stone.     Perhaps  it  may  be  pronounced  Alexis  Mussin 
Pushkin. 

(2)  Similar  facts  are  also  stated  by  Castera,  by  Segur,   by  the 
Prince  de  Ligne,  &c.  &c.    The  Reader  is  requested  to  attend  to  this 
circumstance  ;  and  to  add  to  these  authorities,  the  numerous  testimo- 
nies adduced  by  the  author,  in  the  Notes  to  this  work,  as  vouchers  for 
the  veracity  of  his  own  personal  observations.     If  it  be  urged,  that, 
having  viewed  the  Russians  at  an  unfavourable  period  of  their  history, 
and  under  the  galling  impression  of  a  temporary  tyranny,  he  has  deli- 
neated only  the  dark  shades  in  their  character ;  in  what  manner  will 
the  corresponding  statement  be  refuted,  which  has  proceeded  from  so 
many  able  writers,  in  different  periods,  and  of  so  many  different  nations? 


TO   CAFFA.  127 

Could  there  be  found  a  native  of  Russia,  with      CHAP. 

in. 
a  passion  for  literature^  who  to  a  knowledge  of 

the   Tahtar  lanuae   added  also  that  of  the 


modern  Greek,  (and  many  of  the  Russians  speak 
both  these  languages  with  fluency,)  the  antient 
topography  of  the  Crimea  would  not  long 
remain  in  obscurity.  Unfortunately,  all  those  Crimea. 
persons  whom  CATHERINE  employed  to  travel 
through  her  dominions  for  purposes  of  science, 
were  either  solely  occupied  in  the  pursuits  of 
natural  history,  or  they  were  employed,  more 
politically,  in  preparing  splendid  statistical 
accounts  of  the  most  wretched  provinces3. 

(3)  Professor  Pallas  was  among  the  number  of  those  who  became 
victims  to  the  consequences  of  their  own  too  favourable  representa- 
tions. Having  published  his  "  Tableau  de  la  Tauride,"  printed  at 
Petersburg  in  1796,  in  which  he  describes  the  Crimeaas  a  terrestrial 
paradise,  (or,  to  use  his  own  words  in  the  dedication  to  Zoubof,  as 

Cette  belle  Tauride  —  cette  province  si  heureusement  disposte  pour  toutes 
les  cultures  qui  manquent  encore  ct  F  empire  de  Russie,")  the  Empress 
sent  him  to  reside  there,  upon  an  estate  she  gave  to  him;  where 
we  found  him,  as  he  himself  confessed,  in  a  pestilential  air,  the  dupe 
of  a  sacrifice  he  had  made  to  gratify  his  sovereign. 

"  In  the  first  stage  towards  Sudak,  a  building  presents  itself  on 
the  left  hand,  in  a  beautiful  situation  among  woods,  on  the  side  of  a 
steep  hill,  which  our  Tahtar  guide  said  had  been  an  Armenian  convent. 
We  conversed  with  the  Tahtars  by  an  interpreter  whom  we  hired  at 
Kaffa:  he  was  a  Polish  Jew,  -but  had  resided  several  years  at  Constan- 
tinople. Nothing  could  be  more  interesting,  and  to  us  novel,  than  the 
prospect,  and  the  appearance  of  every  one  we  met.  A  Mirza,  or 
noble,  one  of  the  few  who  still  remain  in  the  country,  overtook  us  ; 
and  I  was  delighted  at  being  addressed  for  the  first  time  by  the 
Oriental  salam,  by  which  we  were  afterwards  saluted  by  all  the  pas- 
sengers. In  this  part  of  the  country  I  only  saw  one  camel,  a  she  one, 
and  kept  for  her  milk  :  the  roads  are  too  steep  and  rocky  for  them. 

The 


128  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP.    Almost  all  of  them  were  destitute  of  any  clas- 

ii.  * 

sical  information.      Pallas  s  first  and  favourite 

The  common  cart  had  two  wheels,  and  was  drawn  by  two  oxen 
abreast,  like  a  curricle  :  it  was  light,  but  spacious.  This  is  only  seen 
as  far  as  Sudak  :  afterwards,  the  hills  are  too  steep  for  any  wheel  car- 
riage. We  passed  a  day  with  Dr.  Pallas  at  Sudak,  who  asked  much 
about  Messrs.  Clarke  and  Cripps.  The  beauty  of  this  celebrated 
valley  rather  disappointed  us,  except  as  far  as  the  vineyards  are  con-" 
cerned,  which  are  more  extensive  and  finer  than  any  we  saw  beside*. 
Dr.  Pallas  said,  that  the  wine  made  by  the  Tahtars  was  spoiled  by  the 
over  irrigation  of  their  vineyards,  which  increased  the  size  of  the 
grapes,  but  injured  their  flavour.  The  wine  we  tasted  was  all  poor 
and  hungry.  Sudak,  or,  as  it  was  explained  to  me,  The  Hill  of  tit 
Fountain,  is  a  small  village,  peopled  by  a  few  families  of  Greeks, 
with  a  very  small  and  insecure  harbour.  The  castle,  which  is  ruinous, 
stands  on  a  high  insulated  rock  on  the  east  of  the  town  ;  and  at  the 
foot  is  a  beautiful  spring,  preserved  in  a  large  cistern,  with  a  metal 
cup  chained  to  it.  I  suppose  this  is  the  harbour  mentioned  by  Arrian 
as  possessed  by  Scythian  pirates,  between  Tbeodosia  and  Lampat. 
There  is  a  small  but  handsome  mosque  still  entire  in  the  castle.  I 
saw  nothing  which  could  be  referred  to  a  higher  antiquity  than  the 
Genoese,  nor  any  thing  which  I  could  rely  on  as  even  so  old  as  their 
erections.  It  is  only  after  Sudak  that  the  real  mountaineer  features 
and  habits  appear  to  begin.  In  the  Vale  of  Ohiz,  or  Sudak,  very  few 
of  the  cottages  are  flat-roofed,  and  all  the  better  sort  of  farm-houses 
are  tiled. 

'  At  Kaya,  the  next  stage,  and  from  thence  to  Baydar,  the  build- 
ings have  flat  roofs,  except  the  mosques,  which  are  tiled  ;  general!* 
with  gable-ends,  and  surrounded  by  a  wooden  portico.  This  distinc- 
tion between  the  roofs  of  private  and  public  buildings  is  mentioned  by 
Aristophanes  as  existing  in  Athens: 

T«j  ya.£  vttZi  t'lKim  ietytptv  IIPO5  AETOtf.  Optf.  1109-10. 
The  bouses  are  generally  piled  up  one  aboveanother,  half  under  ground, 
along  the  sides  of  hills  ;  they  are  composed  of  clay,  and  the  villages 
resemble  rabbit-warrens.  Irrigation  is  practised  universally,  and 
with  apparent  skill,  where  the  vineyards  are  planted.  Very  little 
corn  is  grown  ;  but  the  valleys  are  literally  woods  of  fruit-trees. 
Water  is  abundant ;  and,  near  many  of  the  best  wells,  seats  of  earth 
are  made,  and  bowU  left  for  way-faring  men  to  drink.  There  are 

wolves 


TO   CAFFA. 

study  was  zoology ;  afterwards  he  cultivated  CHAP. 
mineralogy,  botany,  and  entomology.  When  v  <Y>  ,- 
resident  in  the  Crimea,  he  was  too  far  advanced 
in  years,  and  too  weak  in  health,  to  dedicate 
his  hours  to  other  studies ;  otherwise  he  might 
have  contributed  largely  to  our  stock  of  infor- 
mation. Hitherto,  all  that  has  been  published 
concerning  the  geography  and  the  antiquities  of 
the  Crimea  was  written  by  persons  who  never 
saw  the  country.  Those  who  have  visited  it 
were,  unfortunately,  neither  geographers  nor 
antiquaries. 

/ 

We    left    Kertchy,    and  proceeded   towards  Departure 
Cqffa1.     After  the   second  station  we  passed 

wolves  and  foxes,  and,  of  course,  the  other  game  is  not  very  plenti- 
ful ;  but  there  are  hares,  and  a  few  partridges.  Between  Lambat  and 
Aliuschta  is  the  way  to  ascend  Chatyr  Dag,  which  we  missed  seeing, 
by  the  blunder  of  our  Jewish  interpreter."  Heler's  MS,  Journal. 

(1)  "  We  left  Kertch  on  the  twenty-third.  From  thence  the  road 
winds  among  swampy  uncultivated  savannahs,  having  generally  a 
range  of  low  hills  to  the  south,  and  the  Sea  of  Asoph  at  some  distance 
to  the  north.  These  plains  are  covered  with  immense  multitudes  of 
bustards,  cranes,  and  storks.  I  saw  no  pelicans  after  landing  in 
Europe.  I  never  saw  an  English  bustard  ;  but  those  of  the  Crimea 
appeared  to  be  a  stouter  bird  than  what  is  generally  represented  in 
prints.  There  are  many  ruins  ia  this  part  of  the  country,  and  other 
vestiges  of  population.  We  passed  two  or  three  small,  but  solid  and 
well-built, bridges  over  rivulets,  which  appeared  to  be  of  Mohammedan 
workmanship ;  and  there  were  many  tombs  distinguished  by  the 
turban.  The  number  of  barrows  near  Kertch  is  surprising.  We 
passed  two  villages  still  standing,  and  recognised  at  once  the  grotesque 
dresses  of  the  Nagay  herdsmen  represented  by  Pallas.  At  night  we 
reached  another  village  some  time  after  dark,  and,  after  a  furious 

battle 


130  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

Cm R     anotner  antient  boundary  or  vallum;  and  here 
we  discerned  the  traces  of  turrets  that  were 

battle  with  the  dogs,  obtained  a  lodging.     I  have  forgotten  its  name. 
The  next  day  we  found  several  patches  of  cultivation,  and  the  country 
improving,  though  still  full  of  ruins.     On  our  right  hand  lay  the  Sea 
of  Asoph  ;  and  on  our  left  the  Black  Sea  was  now  visible.     A  ruinous 
mosque  was  before  us.     We  found,   on  inquiry,  that  our  driver    had 
mistaken  his  way  ;  that  we  had  passed  the  turn  to  Kaffa,  and  were  in 
the  road  to  Karasubazar.     Kaffa  now  lay  on  our  left  hand  ;  and  pre- 
sents a  most  dismal  prospect  as  it  is  approached  on  the  side.     There 
is  a  striking  ruin  on  the  north-east  point  of  the  bay,  which  was  for- 
merly a  mint  ;  and  the  walls  and  towers,  though  dismantled,  are  very 
fine.    The  tower  rises  like  a  theatre  from  the  water's  edge,  and  is  of 
considerable  extent,  but  almost  entirely  ruinous.     On  the  land  side  it 
is  defended  by  a  high  wall,  with  loop-holes  and  battlements  :  the  loop- 
holes communicate  with  a  sort  of  gallery,  and  are  contrived  in  the 
thickness  of  the  wall,  with  large  internal  arches,  which  give  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  aqueduct.     These  arches  support  the  upper  walk  and 
parapet.    The  towers  are  semicircular.    On  one  of  them,  iu  which  is  a 
gateway,  are  many  shields  with  armorial  bearings,  not  much  defaced, 
which  ascertain  the  Genoese  to  have    been   its   founders.    There  are 
some    noble  Mohammedan  baths    entire,  but   now   converted    into 
warehouses  ;  many  ruined  mosques  ;  and  one  which   is  still    in  geod 
order,  though"  little  used.     There   are   also  the  remains  of  several 
buildings,  which,  by  their  form,  and  position  east  and  west,  appear  to 
have  been  churches.    Turkish  and  Armenian  inscriptions  abound  ;  but 
I  could  find,  in  several  days'  search,  no  vestige  which  I  could  rely  on  at 
having  belonged  to  the   antient  Theodosia.       (See   p.  150,    and   Note.) 
The  north-west  quarter  of  the  town  is  peopled  by  Karaite  Jews,  and 
the  narrow  bazar  nearest  the  water  swarms  with  those  of  Europe.  These 
are  the  two  most,  populous  parts  of  the  town.     There  are  some  Arme- 
nians, but  not  exceeding  thirty  families,  and  hardly  any  Tahtars.  The 
remainder  of  the  population  consists  of  the  garrison,  five  or  six  Italian 
and  German  merchants,   (no  French  when  we  were  there,)  and    some 
miserable  French  and  Suabian  emigrants.      General  Fanshaw  has  con- 
structed a  very  good  quay  ;  and  by  pulling  down  some  ruinous  buildings, 
and  a  part  of  the  wall,   has  made  a  good  cut  from  the  north,  which 
he  has  planted  with  trees.     They  were  building  a  very  large  and  con- 
venient place  of  quarantine.    I  could  find  no  aqueduct ;  nor  did  there 
appear  any  need  of  one,  as  there  are  many  beautiful  springs  bursting 

out 


TO   CAFFA. 

placed  along  the  second  barrier  of  the  Bospo- 
rlans.  In  all  this  route,  we  found  no  other 

out  of  different  parts  of  the  higher  town,  which,  excepting  the  north- 
east quarter,  where  the  Karaites  live,  is  entirely  waste  and  ruinous. 
The  springs  have  all  been  carefully  preserved  in  cisterns,  some  of  them 
ornamented  and  arched  over,  with  Turkish  inscriptions  ;  and  one  of 
them  in  particular,  which  is  near  the  south-west  angle  of  the  walls,  is 
a  delightful  bath,  though  small,  being  surrounded  by  picturesque 
ruins,  and  overhung  with  ivy  and  brushwood.  .The  ruins  of  Kaffa 
are  mostly  of  free-stone  :  the  greater  part  of  the  houses  were,  I 
understood,  of  mud  and  ill-baked  bricks ;  but  of  these  hardly  any 
traces  are  left.  None  of  those  still  standing  have  flat  roofs,  but  are 
all  tiled,  with  very  projecting  eaves,  and  in  the  same  style  of  archi- 
tecture as  the  palace  at  liatchiserai.  The  best  of  these  adjoin  to  the 
quay,  and  are  inhabited  by  the  merchants.  There  are  a  few  buildings 
lately  erected ;  one  a  tavern,  by  a  French  emigrant;  and  another  a 
house  intended  for  the  governor,  Fanshaw.  All  these  are  of  slight 
timber  frames,  covered  with  plaister. 

"  Kaffa  was  called  by  the  Tahtars,  in  its  better  days,  Kutchuk  Stam- 
boul  (Little  Constantinople).  I  often  asked  different  persons  what  its 
former  population  was ;  particularly  an  old  Italian,  who  had  been  inter- 
preter to  the  Khans  ;  but  the  answers  I  obtained  were  not  such  as  I  could 
credit.  Yet  he  and  the  Tahtar  peasants  were  in  the  same  story,  that  it 
had  formerly  consisted  of  sixteen  thousand  houses.  All  the  Tahtars 
attributed  its  desolation  to  the  calamities  brought  on  it  by  the  Russian 
garrison,  who  tore  off  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  where  they  were  quartered, 
for  fire- wood.  I  was  told  by  a  Suabian  settler,  that  wood  was  chiefly 
brought  from  Old  Krim,  and  was  very  dear  :  the  winters  he  complained 
of,  as  Tery  cold.  Corn  is  very  dear,  and  comes  chiefly  frem  the  Don. 
Animal  food  is  not  so  plentiful  as  I  should  have  supposed.  A  ycung 
man,  who  was  employed  to  buy  stores  for  Mr.  Eaton  the  contractor, 
stated  the  price  of  beef,  in  the  market  of  Kaffa,  to  be  ten  or  fifteen  copeeks 
th«  pound,  or  sometimes  more,  and  the  supply  irregular.  About  three 
miles  from  Kaffa  is  a  small  village  of  German  colonists,  who  were  very 
poor  and  desponding:  the  number  might  be  twelve  families,  who  were 
then  on  their  farms,  the  rest  having  gone  into  service,  or  to  sea.  General 
Fanshaw,  to  whom  we  had  a  letter,  was  at  Petersburg ;  so  that  I  am 
unable  to  give  so  good  an  account  of  Kaffa  as  if  I  had  the  means  of 
deriving  information  from  him.  His  object  was,  to  establish  a  Bank  at 
VOL.  II.  K  Kaffa. 


132  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

dwellings  than  Tahtar  huts,  with  earthen  floors, 
and  an  entrance  so  low  that  we  could  scarcely 
gain  admittance,  unless  by  creeping  upon  our 
hands  and  knees.  The  post  here  is  worse 
regulated  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  empire  ; 
but  when  we  hired  the  horses  of  the  peasants, 
we  found  them  to  be  strong,  fleet,  and  beautiful 
as  Arabian  coursers.  Martens  build  their  nests 
in  the  little  chambers  of  the  Tahtar s,  and 

Kaffa,  and  finally  to  arrange  the  intercourse  with  the  Don,  by  way  of 
Arabat.  The  merchants  of  Kaffa  were,  as  usual,  excessively  sanguine, 
and  confident  of  the  success  of  their  scheme ;  and  we  heard  a  direct  con- 
trary story  to  the  one  we  were  taught  at  Taganrog.  We  could  not  learn 
whether  Arabat  had  a  safe  harbour :  the  road  from  Kaffa  thither  is  level, 
and,  if  necessary,  a  rail-road  might  be  put  up  at  no  great  expense,  as  it 
would  come  by  water  from  Lugan.  The  bay  of  Kaffa  is  rather  exposed  to 
thesouth-east,  but  we  were  assured  they  had  very  seldom  high  winds  from 
that  quarter,  and  that  accidents  had  been  never  known  to  happen.  A  small 
vessel,  of  the  kind  which  Russia  fitted  out  in  numbers  during  the  Turkish 
war,  with  one  mast  and  a  vast  lateen  sail,  was  lying  in  the  harbour,  to 
take  a  Scotchman,  named  Macmaster,  to  Immeretta,  where,  and  at  Trebi- 
zond,  he  was  to  act  as  a  sort  of  Consul  to  an  association  which  had  just 
opened  a  trade  there.  At  Kaffa  we  obtained  an  order  from  the  Govern- 
ment for  horses  from  the  Tahtar  villages,  at  the  rate  of  two  copeeks  a  verst, 
per  horse.  The  order  was  in  Turkish :  the  date  was  explained  to  us, 
'  From  our  healthy  city  of  Kaffa;1  which  I  conclude  was  its  antient 
distinction.  The  elder,  or  constable,  of  each  village  is  named  '  Ombaska;' 
but  I  write  the  Tahtar  words  from  ear  only.  The  road  is  not  interesting 
till  after  you  have  past  Old  Krim  j  though  there  is  a  gradual  improve- 
ment in  the  cultivation.  Old  Krim,  we  were  told,  is  so  called,  because  the 
Tahtars  believe  it  to  have  been  the  antient  capital  of  the  Peninsula.  It  is 
now  a  village  of  fifty  houses  at  most,  inhabited  entirely  by  Armenians;  but 
the  Mohammedan  ruins  are  extensive :  there  are  three  mosques,  and  what 
appears  to  have  been  a  bath.  The  neighbouring  peasants  are  all  Tahtars." 
Hcber's  MS.  Journal 


TO    CAFFA. 

are  encouraged  to  do  so  all  over  the  Crimea, 
even  in  the  houses  of  the  best  families,  because 
these  birds  destroy  flies.  The  roads,  although 
excellent  in  dry  weather,  now  became,  in  con- 
sequence of  rain,  almost  impassable  for  our 
carriage  ;  the  turf  upon  the  steppes  peeling  off 
in  large  flakes,  and  adhering  to  the  wheels 
with  such  weight,  that  they  were  often  entirely 
clogged,  and  we  could  not  proceed  without 
frequently  cleansing  them.  We  passed  several 
ruined  mosques.  A  few  Turkish  and  Tahtar 
tombs  appeared  also  occasionally  near  the 
road  :  these  were  distinguished  by  small  stone 
pillars,  with  a  turban  sculptured  upon  the  top, 
and  sometimes  also  by  inscriptions  in  the 
Turkish,  or  in  the  Tahtarian,  language. 


We  now  began  to  perceive  the  truth  of  those  Locusts. 
surprising  relations  we  had  often  heard  and 
read  concerning  locusts.  The  steppes  were 
entirely  covered  with  the  bodies  of  those 
insects  ;  their  numbers,  in  falling,  resembled 
flakes  of  snow  driven  obliquely  by  the  wind, 
and  spreading  a  thick  mist  over  the  sun.  My- 
riads fell  upon  the  carriage,  upon  the  horses, 
and  upon  the  drivers.  The  stories  told  us  of 
these  animals,  by  the  Tahtar  s,  were  more 
marvellous  than  any  we  had  before  heard. 
They  relate,  that  instances  have  occurred  of 

K2 


134  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,    persons  being  suffocated  by  a  fall  of  locusts  in 
the  steppes.      It  was    now    the   season   when 
their  numbers  begin   to   diminish.      On   their 
first   appearance,  a   thick  dark  cloud   is   seen 
very   high   in   the    air ;    by    its   passage,  ob- 
scuring the   sun.      We  had  always  supposed 
that  the  stories  told  of  the  locust  exaggerated 
its  real  appearance  ;  but  we  found  the  swarms 
to  be  so  astonishing  in  all  the  steppes,  during 
this  part  of  our  journey,  that  the  whole  face  of 
nature  seemed  to  be  concealed,  as  by  a  living 
veil.       They   consisted  of   two   species ;    the 
Gryllus  Tahtaricus,  and  the  Gryllus  Migratorius\ 
or  common   migratory   Locust.     The  first,  al- 
most twice  the  size  of  the  second,  because  it 
precedes  the  other,  bears  the  name  of  Herald 
or  Messenger.     The   migratory  locust   has   red 
legs,  and  its  inferior  wings  exhibit  a  lively  red 
colour,  giving  a  bright  fiery  appearance  to  the 
animal,  when  fluttering  in  the  sun's  rays.     The 
strength  of  their  limbs  is  amazing;  when  pressed 
down  by   the  hand  upon  a  table,    they  have 
almost  power   to   raise  the  fingers :  but  this 
force  resides  wholly  in  the  legs ;  for  if  one  of 
these  be   broken  off,   which  happens   by   the 
slightest  accident,  the  power  of  action  ceases. 
There  is  yet  a  third  kind  of  locust,  the  Gryllus 

(l)  See  the  Vignette  to  Chap.  V. 


TO   CAFFA.  135 

viridissimus  of  Linngeus,  which  is  found  near 
to  the  Don  and  to  the  Kuban,  which  is  entirely 
of  a  green  colour.  This  insect  we  have  since 
seen  upon  the  banks  of  the  Cam,  in  our  own 
country ;  and  we  were  apprehensive  that  such 
a  Messenger  might  be  a  forerunner  of  the 
dreadful  scourge  which  is  inflicted  by  the  locust 
on  all  countries  where  it  abounds2.  When  those 
animals  arrive  in  swarms,  the  whole  vegetable 
produce  disappears.  Nothing  escapes  them, 
from  the  leaves  of  the  forest  to  the  herbs  of 
the  plain.  Fields,  vineyards,  gardens,  pasture, 
every  thing  is  laid  waste.  Sometimes  the  only 
appearance  left  upon  the  naked  soil  is  a  revolt- 
ing heap,  caused  by  their  putrifying  bodies, 
the  stench  of  which  is  sufficient  to  breed  a 

(2)  In  the  year  593,  many  countries  were  afflicted  by  famine  in  conse- 
quence of  ravages  committed  by  locusts.  In  677,  Syria  and  Mesopotamia 
were  overrun  by  them.  In  852,  they  migrated  from  the  Eastern  countries, 
and,  after  devastating  whole  regions  in  the  West,  were  driven  by  winds 
into  the  Belgic  Ocean,  In  1271,  all  the  corn  near  Milan  was  destroyed 
by  them;  and  in  the  year  1339,  all  the  fields  of  Lombardy  were  laid 
waste.  In  1541,  they  penetrated  to  Poland  and  Wallachia ;  in  1673, 
some  swarms  settled  in  Wales;  and  in  1748,  some  fell  in  several  parts 
of  England,  particularly  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London,  (Shaw's 
Zoology,  vol.  VI.  part  I.  pp.  136,  137.)  The  best  method  of  destroying 
them  would  be  to  recommend  them  as  an  article  of  food.  In  the  Crimea 
they  are  often  eaten  by  the  inhabitants.  Some  French  emigrants,  who 
had  been  thus  instructed,  assured  us  that  they  were  palatable,  and  very 
wholesome.  The  Arabs,  according  to  "Hasselquist,  eat  them  fried,  and  are 
t-Iad  to  get  them. 


136  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,    pestilence '.  We  collected  almost  all  the  insects  of 
•      T  '    •  the  Crimea;  among  these  are  some  of  the  locust 
kind  which  are  destitute  of  wings ;  and  there 
are  others  which  differ  only  in  trifling  distinc- 
tions, that  are  more  interesting  to  the  entomo- 
logist than  to  the  general  reader.     But  other 
Venomous  insects,   infesting  the  Peninsula,  require   more 

Insects* 

particular  notice,  from  the  danger  to  which  they 
expose  an  unsuspecting  traveller.  These  are  of 
three  kinds  :  the  two  first,  from  their  external 
appearance,  seem  to  be  spiders  ;  but,  according 
to  naturalists,  one  alone  belongs  to  the  genus 
jiranea,  namely,  the  large  black  tarantula, 
known  in  many  parts  of  the  South  of  Italy,  and 
long  famous  in  giving  its  name  to  a  dance  which 
is  said  to  afford  a  remedy  for  its  bite,  otherwise 
fatal.  This  animal  attains  a  fearful  size  in  the 
Crimea.  We  caught  one  with  a  pair  of  tongs  : 
when  it  was  extended  in  a  natural  posture, 
upon  a  table,  it  embraced  by  its  claws  a  cir- 
cumference whose  diameter  equalled  nearly 
three  inches2.  The  other,  although  smaller, 
is  much  more  formidable.  Professor  Pallas 
named  it  Pkalangium  Araneo'ides.  It  is  of  a 

yellowish  colour;  looking  like  a  large  spider, 

r _ ~ 

(1)  Those   who  have  not  seen  the   locust,  will  find   it  faithfully 
represented  in  the  Vignette  to  the  Fifth  Chapter. 
(2)  Sec  also  the  Vignette  to  Chap.  V. 


TO   CAFFA.  137 

whose  legs  are  covered  with  hair.  In  front  it  CHAP. 
has  a  pair  of  claspers,  bearing  some  resem-  v  »•  .  > 
blance  to  lobster's  claws.  Pallas  assured  us, 
that  its  bite  had  proved  fatal,  in  cases  where  he 
had  himself  attended  the  patient.  Fortunately 
this  insect  is  very  rare.  We  preserved  one  for 
some  time,  in  alcohol ;  but  the  prepared  speci- 
men was  destroyed  in  its  passage  to  England. 
The  third  kind  of  insect  which  is  terrible  on 
account  of  its  bite  is  the  Centipede,  or  Scolo- 
pendra  morsitans*.  This  pernicious  animal  is 
very  common  in  dry  timber,  and  beneath  stones, 
and  in  fissures  of  the  earth,  in  warm  situations. 
Scorpions  also  are  found  in  the  mountains. 

Strabo  describes  all  the  country  between 
Theodosia  (Caffa)  and  Panticap^eum  (Kertchy) 
as  rich  in  corn,  and  full  of  inhabitants 4.  In  the 
villages  we  found  parties  of  the  Tzigankies,  or  Gipsies. 
Gipsies,  encamped  as  we  see  them  in  England, 
but  having  their  tents  stationed  between  their 
waggons.  Poultry,  cats,  dogs,  and  horses, 
were  feeding  around  them ;  seeming  like  mem- 
bers of  the  same  family.  Gipsies  are  much 
encouraged  by  the  Tahtars,  who  allow  them  to 
encamp  in  the  midst  of  their  villages,  where 
they  exercise  the  several  functions  of  smiths, 

(3)  See  the  Vignette  to  Chap.  V. 

(4)  Strab.  lib.  vii.  p.  448.  edit.  Oxon.  1807. 


138 


CHAP. 
III. 


Cattle. 


FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

musicians,  and  astrologers.  Many  of  them  are 
wealthy,  possessing  fine  horses,  and  plenty  of 
other  cattle  ;  but  their  way  of  life,  whether 
they  be  rich  or  poor,  is  always  the  same.  One 
of  the  waggons  belonging  to  a  party  of  Gipsies 
which  we  visited  was  filled  with  an  enormous 
drum :  this  instrument  they  accompany  with  a 
pipe,  when  performing  before  village  dancers. 
The  sound  of  the  drum  was  the  loudest  we  had 
ever  heard  ;  and,  although  intimidating,  it  was 
nevertheless  musical.  Strata  mentions  the  drum 
as  an  instrument  common  to  the  antient  Cir.: 
and  he  notices  its  intimidating  sound1.  In 
their  tents  the  men  sat  stark-naked  among  the 
women.  They  rose,  however,  as  we  entered, 
and  cast  a  sheep's  skin  over  their  bodies.  The 
filth  and  stench  of  this  people  were  abominable  : 
almost  all  of  them  had  the  itch  to  such  a  decree, 
that  their  limbs  were  covered  with  blotches 
and  scabs. 

The  principal  property  of  the  Tahtar  gentle- 
men consists  in  cattle.  Thousands  are  seen  in 
the  steppes,  and  they  are  often  the  property  of 
a  single  man :  among  them  we  noticed  many 
hundred  camels.  The  Tauridan  camel  is  repre- 
sented in  Pallas' s  Travels,  from  a  drawing  by 


(l)  Strab.  lib.  vii.  pp.  425,  4£6.  edit.  Oxom.  1807. 


TO   CAFFA.  139 

Giesler  of  Leipsic.  It  has  a  double  hump  upon  CHAP. 
its  back.  Pallas  affirms,  that  the  camel  grows 
larger  in  the  Crimea  than  among  the  Calmuck 
Tahtars,  a  circumstance  of  no  moment,  but 
directly  contradicted  by  our  own  observations  i 
the  camels  in  the  territory  of  the  Don  Cossacks, 
and  near  to  the  camps  of  the  Calmucks,  appeared 
to  us  to  be  much  larger  than  those  of  the 
Crimea.  They  are  used  by  the  Tahtars  in 
drawing  covered  waggons  with  four  wheels, 
called  Madshari,  in  which  they  convey  their 
families.  The  price  of  a  full-grown  camel,  in 
the  Crimea,  seldom  exceeds  a  sum  equivalent 
to  twelve  pounds  of  our  money.  Tahtar  gentle- 
men appear  armed  when  on  horseback,  and 
they  ride  remarkably  well.  Their  religion, 
being  Mohammedan,  consists  nearly  of  the  same 
ceremonies  which  are  observed  among  the 
Turks.  At  mid-day,  the  priest  of  every  village, 
after  washing  his  head,  feet,  and  hands, 
proceeds  with  his  beads2  slowly  to  the  mosque, 
where,  having  performed  his  devotions,  he 
ascends  to  the  top  of  the  minaret,  singing  out 


(2)  A  rosary  of  beads,  called  Tespy,  borne  in  the  hand  for  religious 
purposes,  exhibits  one  of  the  most  antient  and  universal  customs  of 
the  human  race.  The  author  found  such  rosaries  buried  among  the 
Lares  of  the  antient  Egyptians,  in  the  catacombs  of  Egypt,  They  are 
still  used  by  all  the  Eastern  nations,  and  may  be  observed  among  the 
natives  of  the  islands  in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Balls  of  chalcedony, 
similarly  arranged  upon  strings,  are  brought  from  India  and  China. 


140  FROM  THE  CIMMERIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  as  loud  as  he  can  bawl,  in  a  drawling  tone,  the 
well-known  invocation,  "  God  is  God,  and 
Mohammed  is  his  Prophet!"  The  dress  of  the 
Tahtars,  particularly  among  the  higher  ranks  of 
the  men,  is  plain  and  simple  :  it  preserves  the 
Oriental  form,  but  without  that  contrast  and 
variety  of  colour  which  gives  such  splendor  to 
the  habits  of  the  Turks,  the  Poles,  and  the 
Tchernomorski  Cossacks.  A  Tahtar  Prince  usually 
appears  in  a  habit  of  light  drab  cloth,  with  a  cap 
of  grey  wool,  and  in  yellow  or  drab-coloured 
boots.  Perhaps  the  costume  was  more  magni- 
ficent under  the  government  of  the  Khans. 

of  Iii  the  last  stage  from  Kertchy  to  Cqffa,  we 
passed  the  third,  that  is  to  say,  the  outer  vallum 
or  boundary  of  the  Bosporians :  this  separated 
their  peninsula  from  the  country  of  the  TaurL 
Its  remains,  as  well  as  those  of  the  towers 
placed  upon  it,  were  very  visible.  This  wall 
extends  from  the  Sea  of  Azof,  beginning  east- 
ward of  a  place  now  called  Arabat,  to  the 
mountains  behind  Cqffa:  it  is  mentioned  by 
Strabo,  who  states,  from  Hypsicrates,  that  it 
was  constructed  by  Asander,  three  hundred 
and  sixty  stadia  in  length,  having  at  every 
stadium  a  turret1.  The  description  agrees  with 

(l)  Strab.  lib.  vii.  p.  450.  edit.  Oxon.  J807, 


TO    CAFFA.  141 

its  present  appearance :  the  distance  from  the  CHAP. 
Sea  of  Azof  is  not  so  great,  but  the  oblique 
direction  of  the  wall  makes  its  length  equal  to 
that  which  is  given  by  Strabo*.  Constantine 
Porphyrogenetes  has  afforded  a  more  explicit 
account  of  the  boundaries  of  the  Bosporians*. 
According  to  this  author,  the  Sarmatians,  being 
in  possession  of  the  Bosporian  territory,  gave 
war  to  the  Chersonites,  respecting  the  limits  of 
their  empire.  The  Chersonites  were  victorious 
in  a  battle  fought  near  Caffa;  and  by  the  treaty 
of  peace  made  upon  the  spot,  it  was  determined 
that  the  limits  of  the  Bosporian  empire  should 
not  extend  beyond  Caffa.  Afterwards,  the 
Sarmatians,  under  another  leader,  protested 
against  this  boundary;  and,  giving  battle  to 
the  Chersonites,  were  again  defeated.  Phar- 
nacus,  king  of  the  Chersonites,  then  contracted 
the  Bosporian  limits  still  more,  and  placed  their 
boundary  at  Cybernicus,  leaving  them  only  forty 
miles  of  territory4;  "  and  these  boundaries," 
he  observes,  "  remain  to  this  day."  From  that 
period  the  Bosporus  was  lost  to  the  Sarmatians. 
Pharnacus  retained  some  of  them  to  cultivate 
the  land,  and  sent  others  to  their  own  country. 

(2)  Allowing  eight  stadia  to  the  English  mile,  its  length  would 
equal  forty-five  miles. 
L    (3)  Constant,  de  Admin.  Imp.  p.  213.  ed.Meurs.   L.  Bat.  1611. 

(4)  The  latter  is  the  same  which  the  Reader  will  find  noticed  in  the 
first  part  of  our  journey  from  Kertchy. 


142  CAFFA. 

CHAP.    The  latter,  for  this  kindness,  inscribed  a  pillar 
v    .»-  ,'  to  him,    and  this  perhaps  still  remains  among 
the  antiquities  of  Kertchy. 

Arrival  at  We  now  arrived  upon  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Caffa,  supposed,  but  without  foundation,  to 
have  been  that  of  THEODOSIA.  The  town 
appeared  covering  the  southern  side,  rising, 
like  a  vast  theatre,  with  its  numerous  mosques 
and  minarets,  over  all  the  hills  inclosing  that 
part  of  the  bay.  Many  vessels  were  at  anchor 
near  the  place;  and,  notwithstanding  the  de- 
struction of  buildings  by  the  Russians,  it  still 
wore  an  aspect  of  some  importance.  In  former 
times  it  had  the  appellation  of  "  The  Lesser 
Constantinople;'  containing  thirty-six  thousand 
houses  within  its  walls;  and,  including  the 
suburbs,  not  less  than  forty-four  thousand. 


CHAP.  IV. 


FROM  CAFFA,  TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

Caffa  in  its  present  State  —  Barlarous  Conduct  of  the 
Russians  —  Inscriptions — Distribution  of  the  Town  — 
Departure  from  Caffa — Stara  Crim — Ruined  Baths — 
Villa  of  the  Empress — Ant'ient  Vallum  —  Remarkalle 
Mountain — Karasulazar — Akmetchet — Professor  Pallas 
— Unwholesome  Situation  of  the  Town — Mus  Jaculus, 
or  Jerloa — Observations  of  Bochart  and  others  upon  that 
Animal — BAKTCHESERAI — Novel  Appearance  of  the 
City — Fountains — Destruction  caused  ly  the  Russian 
Troops — Causes  which  led  to  the  Deposition  and  Death 
of  the  late  Khan  —  Consequences  of  the  Capture  of  the 
Crimea — Palace  of  the  Khans — Preparations  made  for 
the  Reception  of  the  late  Empress — Seraglio — Description, 
of  the  Charem — Visit  to  the  Fortress  of  Dschou foul  kale 


J44  CAFFA. 

—  Anecdote  of  an  English  Servant  —  Extraordinary 
Ring  —  Singular  Excavation  —  Jewish  Cemetery — 
Account  of  the  Sect  of  Kara?. 

f  IFTY  families  are  at  present  the  whole  po- 
pulation of  the  once  magnificent  town  of  Cciffa : 
in  some  instances,  a  single  house  contains  more 
than  one  family.  The  melancholy  devastation 
committed  by  the  Russians,  drawing  tears  down 
the  cheeks  of  the  Tahtars,  and  extorting  many  a 
sigh  from  Anatolian  Turks  who  resort  to  Caffa  for 
commercial  purposes,  cannot  fail  to  excite  the 
indignation  of  every  enlightened  people.  During 
Barbarous  the  time  we  remained,  soldiers  were  allowed  to 

Conduct  of 

the  RUS.    overthrow  the  beautiful  mosques,  or  to  convert 

stuns. 

them  into  magazines,  to  pull  down  the  minarets, 
tear  up  the  public  fountains,  and  to  destroy  all 
the  public  aqueducts,  for  the  sake  of  a  small 
quantity  of  lead  they  were  thereby  enabled  to 
obtain.  Such  is  the  true  nature  of  Russian 
protection;  such  the  sort  of  alliance  which 
Russians  endeavour  to  form  with  every  nation 
weak  enough  to  submit  to  their  power,  or  to 
become  their  dupe.  While  these  works  of 
destruction  were  going  on,  the  officers  amused 
themselves  in  beholding  the  mischief.  Tall  and 
stately  minarets,  whose  lofty  spires  added 
grace  and  dignity  to  the  town,  were  daily 
levelled  with  the  ground :  these,  besides  their 


CAFF  A.  145 

connection  with  the  religious  establishments  for 
whose  maintenance  the  honour  of  the  Russian 
empire  had  been  pledged,  were  of  no  other 
value  to  their  destroyers  than  to  supply  a  few 
soldiers  with  bullets1,  or  their  officers  with  a 
dram.  We  were  in  a  Turkish  coffee-house  at 
Caffa,  when  the  principal  minaret,  one  of  the 
antient  and  characteristic  monuments  of  the 
country,  was  thrown  down  with  such  violence, 
that  its  fall  shook  every  house  in  the  place. 
The  Turks,  seated  on  divdns,  were  smoking  ;  and 
when  this  is  the  case,  an  earthquake  will  scarcely 
rouse  them;  nevertheless,  at  this  flagrant  act  of 
impiety  and  dishonour,  they  all  rose,  breathing 
out  deep  and  bitter  curses  against  the  enemies 
of  their  Prophet.  Even  the  Greeks,  who  were 
present,  testified  their  anger  by  similar  impre- 
cations. One  of  them,  turning  to  me,  and 
shrugging  his  shoulders,  said,  with  a  coun- 
tenance of  contempt  and  indignation,  'Sxvfat ! 
SCYTHIANS  !  This  we  afterwards  found  to  be 
a  common  term  of  reproach ;  for  although  the 
Greeks  profess  a  religion  which  is  common  to 
the  Russians,  yet  the  former  detest  the  latter  as 
cordially  as  do  the  Turks,  or  Tahtars*.  The 


(1)  The    Russian    troops  are    compelled    to    provide    themselves  , 
with  lead. 

(2)  The  mild  and  amiable  Pallas,  notwithstanding  the  awe  in  which 
he  was  kept  by  the  Russian  Government,  could  not  pass  in  silence  the 

destruction 


146  CAFFA. 

most  lamentable  part  of  the  injury  which  the 
town  has  sustained  is  owing  to  the  destruction 
of  the  aqueducts  and  the  public  fountains ;  for 
these  conveyed,  together  with  the  purest  water 
from  distant  mountains,  sources  of  health  and 
of  comfort  to  the  people.  The  Russian  soldiers 
first  carried  off  the  leaden  pipes,  in  order  to 
make  bullets;  then  they  took  down  all  the 
marble  slabs  and  large  stones  for  building- 
materials  ;  these  they  employed  in  the  construc- 
tion of  barracks:  lastly,  they  destroyed  the  chan- 
nels for  conveying  water,  because  they  said  the 
water-porters  cannot  earn  a  livelihood  where 
there  are  public  fountains.  Some  of  those 
fountains  were  of  great  antiquity ;  and  they 
were  beautifully  decorated  with  marble  reser- 
voirs, exhibiting  bas-reliefs  and  inscriptions. 
In  all  Mohammedan  countries,  it  is  considered  an 
act  of  piety  to  preserve  and  to  adorn  the  public 

destruction  of  these  beautiful  buildings.  It  is  interesting  to  remark 
the  caution  with  which  he  suppresses  his  indignation,  while  he  thus 
communicates  the  fact.  "  When  I  caused,"  says  he,  "  the  prospect 
of  this  town  (Giff'a)  to  be  drawn  from  the  side  next  the  Bay,  there 
were  two  minarets,  sixteen  fathoms  high,  and  furnished  with  serpen- 
tine staircases  leading  to  the  top,  though  both  structures  have  since 
been  demolished."  Trav.  vol.  II.  p.  267.  Had  the  Professor  ventured 
two  syllables  further,  if  he  had  merely  added  the  word  ,4las  !  his  grey 
hairs  would  not  have  saved  him  from  what  the  archbishop  of  Moscow 
(p.  198  of  Vol.  1.)  so  emphatically  styled  "  the  free  air  of  Siberia." 
Indeed  few  would  have  ventured  even  to  mention  the  circumstance. 
Such  considerations  make  a  Briton  feel  sensibly  the  blessings  of  the 
Constitution  under  which  he  lives. — 0  sua  si  bona  norint  ' 


CAFFA. 

aqueducts.  Works  of  this  nature  once  ap- 
peared in  almost  every  street  of  Caffa :  some 
of  them  were  public  lavatories ;  others  poured 
out  streams  of  limpid  water  for  the  conve- 
nience and  comfort  of  the  inhabitants;  for 
domestic  use  ;  or  for  ablutions  prior  to  going  to 
the  mosques.  They  were  nearly  all  demolished 
when  we  arrived. 

The  remains  of  antient  sculpture  left  by  the 
Grecians  in  Caffa,  had  not  shared  a  better  fate. 
All  that  even  Mahommedans  had  spared  of  bas- 
reliefs,  of  inscriptions,  or  of  architectural  pillars, 
were  fractured  by  the  Russians,  and  sold  as 
materials  to  construct  their  miserable  barracks. 
We  found  the  identical  marbles,  described  by 
Oderico1,  broken  and  exposed  for  sale  in  the 
ruins  of  the  old  Genoese  fortress.  These  ex- 
cited a  peculiar  interest,  because  they  related 
to  the  history  of  the  town.  It  was  in  vain  that 
we  solicited  to  become  purchasers;  the  request 
was  immediately  denied  by  the  General-officer : 
"  Strangers,"  said  he,  "  are  not  permitted  to 
move  any  thing  from  the  country."  In  a  short 
time,  nothing  will  remain  in  Caffa  but  the  traces 
of  desolation  left  by  its  Russian  conquerors. 
The  town  has  experienced  such  a  variety  of 

(1)  Lettere  Ligustiche  dell'  Oderico.    8vo.  Bassano,  1792. 
VOL.    II.  L 


tions. 


148  CAFFA. 

CHAP,  revolutions,  and  so  many  different  masters,  that 
even  in  better  times,  when  it  was  under  the 
Mohammedan  dynasty,  few  monuments  existed  of 
an  earlier  date  than  the  establishment  of  the 
Genoese  colony  in  the  fifteenth  century.  Upon 
one  of  the  columns  of  the  principal  mosque 
we  found  a  Greek  inscription,  to  the  memory  of 
Helen,  a  nun,  and  a  person  of  the  name  of 
Tagman,  who  died,  as  it  is  expressed,  in  the  year 
after  Adam  6327,  of  the  Byzantine  reckoning, 
answering  to  the  year  of  Christ  81Q,  in  the 
month  of  May. 

EN0AAEKATAKH 

TEHAOYAHTOYOEOY 

EAENHMONAXHETE 

AIOOOHMHNHMAIOY 

J'A-  HMEPAA-D.PAA- 

ETEAIOC0HOAOYAOZ 

TOYOEOYTATMANMHNH 

MAIOYirHMEPAHAPAZ 

KEYHnPAZ-AHOAAAM 

ETOYZZ'T-K-Z- 

At  the  entrance  of  the  city,  near  to  an  edifice 
once  a  mint,  are  some  ruins  likely  to  be  con- 
sidered as  relics  of  antient  Theodosia.  They 
appeared  to  be  of  remote  date.  For  the  rest, 
it  may  be  observed,  that  there  does  not  exist  in  - 


CAFF  A.  14< 

Caffa  any  evidence  that  such  a  city  ever  existed l.    CHAP. 
An  inscription  in  the  walls  of  the  fortress  proves 
that  edifice  to  have  been  completed  so  late  as 
1474,  the  very  year  of  the  capture  of  the  city 
by  the  Turks,  under  Mohammed  the  Second;  and  the 
earliest  date  of  any  other  inscription  does  not 
refer  to  a  period  anterior  to  the  termination  of 
the  fourteenth  century.     We  obtained  one  in 
the  Armenian  language;   the   letters   of  which 
were  beautifully  sculptured  in   relief,  upon  a 
slab  of  white  marble.     It  is  now  preserved  in 
the  Vestibule  of  the   University  Library  of  Cam- 
bridge; and  a  translation  of  this  inscription  is 
given  in  the  account  there  published  of  the 
Greek  Marbles'1.     It  commemorates   work  done 
to   one  of  the  churches   of  Caffa,  in  the  year 
1400.     Another  inscription  in  the  wall  of  the 
fortress  is  in  the  Latin  language :  this  is  re- 
markable  for   an  error    in    the  word   tempore, 
noticed  also  by  Odorico.     It  is  placed  beneath 
three  coats  of  arms,  sculptured  upon  the  same 
stone,  as  follows : 

TENPORE  •  MAGNfrlCI  •  DOMINI  -  BATISTE 
IVSTINIANI  •  CONSVLIS  -  MCCCCLXXIIII- 


(1)  A  passage  in  the  "  Excerpta  v  Michalonis  Lituani  Fragment^," 
printed  at  the  Elzevir  Press  in  1630,   proves  that  Staru  C'rim  wa* 
believed  to  occupy  the  site  of  Theodosia,  as  will  hereafter  appear, 

(2)  Clarke's  Greek  Marbles,  p.  8.  No.  VHf. 

L    1 


50  CAFFA. 

CHAR    The  distribution  of  the  buildings  in  Caffa  may 
be  accurately  ascertained.      Upon  the  southern 
stood  the   Genoese  citadel :  the  walls   still 
remain,  and  the  traces  of  its  streets  within  the 
inclosure  are  visible.     There  are  also  numerous 
subterraneous  chambers  and  spacious  magazines, 
of  the  most  massive  and  gigantic  style  of  archi- 
tecture.     Several   inscriptions   remain   in   the 
walls  :  these,  from  their  elevated  situation,  have 
hitherto  escaped  injury.     The   rest   of  the  in- 
closure exhibits  a  promiscuous  heap  of  ruins. 
The  opposite  side  of  the  city  was  the  residence 
of  the    Tahtars :    this   part   is  now    inhabited. 
Centrally  situated  between  the  two,  and  some- 
what elevated  upon  the  hills  above  them,  stood 
a  portion  of  the  city,  once  inhabited  by  Arme- 
nians :    it  is  a  scene   of  ruins,  like  the  quarter 
possessed  by  the  Genoese.      If  Theodosia  ever 
stood   upon   the  site  of  the  present  town    of 
Caffa,  it  must  have  covered  the  ground  since 
tenanted   by   Armenian   and    Tahtar   establish- 
ments, and  have  occupied  all  the  shore  towards 
the  north-east ;  but  from  all  that  our  subsequent 
observations  have  enabled  us  to  determine,  we 
have  been  convinced  that  Theodosia  and  Caffa 
did  not  stand  upon  the  same  spot1. 

(l)  Since  the  publication  of  the  First  Edition  of  this  Volume,  the 
author  has  been  induced  to  believe,  by  a  passage  in  the  "  Excerpta 
e  Michalonts  lAtuani  Fragmtntis  de  Morilus  Tartarorum,"  given  in  a 

subsequent 


CAFFA.' 

Upon  the  elevated  territory  above  the  Taktar 
city,  close  to  the  walls  of  the  old  Armenian 
fortress,  is  a  circular  building,  very  like  certain 
ruined  edifices  upon  the  coast  of  Baia,  near  to 
Naples.  It  is  now  a  ruin  ;  but,  in  taking  down 
a  part  of  the  stucco  loosely  adhering  to  the 
wall,  there  appeared  a  beautiful  inferior  co- 
vering of  coloured  plaster;  resembling  the 
stucco  discovered  in  Pompeii,  and  in  Herculaneum. 
The  Armenians,  who  had  probably  converted 


subsequent  Note,  that  the  ruins  of  Stara  Crim  are  those  of  THEODOSIA. 
Arrian  calls  Theodosia  the  deserted  city.  The  same  expression  is  re- 
peated in  the  anonymous  Periplus,  taken  from  the  writings  of  Scymnus 
CJiitts,  Marciamis,  and  others.  Fossius  (Annot.  in  Peripl.  Anon, 
p.  143,)  says,  "  Theodosia  Caffa  vocari  creditur,  sed  male;  distinguunt 
enim  rn»  Kaifav  Greed  posteriores  a  Theodosid."  Also  another  author, 
"  Censet  tamen  (Le  Quien,  Orbis  Christian,  torn.  III.  p.  1103,)Z)o- 
minus  Sanson  Theodosiam  fuisse  olim,  qua  nunc  TCSBA  appellatur ; 
Caffam  vero  fuisse  Chavum,  ubi  Tauro~Scytharum  portus,  et  crevisee  ex 
Theodosia  minis,  a  qua  triginta  milliaribus  distat."  Strabo  (lib.  vii.) 
mentions  Xawav,  as  one  of  the  three  fortresses  built  by  Scilurus  and 
his  sons  against  the  generals  of  Mithradntes.  Oderica,  (Lett.  Ligust. 
p.  149,)  who  has  adduced  several  authorities  tending  to  prove  a  distinc- 
tion between  the  two  places,  leaves  the  question  undetermined.  He 
thinks  the  name  0£«30<r;«,  or  Qiovbbina,,  was  given  by  the  Miksians, 
signifying  "  The  Gift  of  God."  Leucon,  king  of  the  liosporians, 
sent  from  Theodosia  to  Athens  two  millions  one  hundred  thousand 
medimni  of  corn  ;  and,  according  to  Demosthenes,  the  imports  from 
that  place  were  greater  than  from  all  the  other  countries  put  together. 
After  the  taking  of  Caffa  by  the  Turks,  in  the  reign  of  Mohammed  the 
Second,  1474,  the  Genoese  colonies  in  the  Black  Sea  successively  fell, 
and  were  annihilated.  In  1672,  the  commerce  was  entirely  lost,  and 
the  Thracian  Bosporus  shut  to  foreign  vessels.  This  trade  did  not 
revive,  until  the  victories  gained  byC'ATHERiNE  THE  SECOND  (Fortnaleoni, 
c.  23,)  a  century  afterwards,  opened  it  once  more. 


152  FROM  CAFFA,       , 

CHAP,  this  building  into  a  place  of  worship,  found  it 
necessary  to  conceal  its  Pagan  ornaments.  In 
the  centre  of  the  old  pavement  of  this  building, 
a  very  curious  bas-relief  was  discovered,  a  few 
days  before  our  arrival.  It  was  sculptured 
upon  a  kind  of  Cippus,  in  a  very  rude  manner ; 
the  subject  being  divided  into  two  parts,  the 
one  above  and  the  other  below.  In  the  upper 
part  appeared  two  crowned  heads/;  and  in  the 
lower,  a  staircase  was  represented,  conducting  to 
the  mouth  of  a  stone  sepulchre.  We  endeavoured 
to  prevail  with  the  guides  to  follow  the  clue 
thus  suggested,  and  to  search  for  the  staircase, 
BO  represented,  below  the  spot  where  the  stone 
itself  was  found;  but  this  they  refused  to  do. 

The  remaining  buildings  of  Cajfa  are  within 
the  Tahtar  city.  They  consist  of  very  magni- 
ficent public  baths  and  mosques,  in  a  ruined 
state;  a  few  minarets,  which  perhaps  are  now 
prostrate ;  some  shops ;  the  Turkish  coffee- 
house ;  an  unfinished  palace  of  the  late  Khan  of 
the  Crimea;  and  a  large  stone  edifice,  before 
noticed,  which  was  once  a  mint.  In  closing 
the  account  of  this  place,  it  is  proper  to  notice 
a  prevailing  error,  into  which  Pallas  has  himself 
fallen,  in  his  account  of  the  Crimea*;  namely, 

(I)  See  Trav.  vol.  II.  p.  97. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  153 

that  a  species  of  fuller's-earth,  dug  in  several     C«AP. 
parts  of  the  Peninsula,   as  well  as  in  Anatolia,  *      y    •> 
and  called  Kejf-kil,  has  been  so  denominated 
from   Caffa;  and  that   it  signifies   Caffa  earth*. 
Its  real  etymology  may  be   illustrated  by  re- 
ference to  Meninskis  Oriental  Dictionary :  it  is        / 
derived    from    two    Turkish   words,   implying 
foam,  or  froth,  of  the  earth. 

Our  journey  from  Caffa.  as  before  we  reached   PePartu™ 

from  Caffa. 

it,  was  continually  over  steppes.  We  beheld, 
towards  the  south,  a  ridge  of  mountains  upon 
the  coast;  but  unless  a  traveller  follow  the 
sinuosities  of  the  southern  shore  of  the  Crimea, 
all  the  rest  of  the  Peninsula  is  a  level  plain. 
The  whole  district  from  Yenihale  to  AMar,  ex- 
cepting the  situation  of  the  town  of  Baktcheserai, 
exhibited  a  campaign  country,  covered  with 
grass  and  locusts;  capable,  it  is  true,  of  the 
highest  cultivation,  but  entirely  neglected.  The 
Tahtars  and  the  Greeks  refuse  to  till  the  land, 
because  they  fear  to  be  plundered  by  the 
Russians;  and  the  Russians  are  too  indolent  to 
speculate  upon  the  advantages  of  industry. 


(2)  According  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  this  substance  is  also  found  near 
Ttebes  in  Saotia.  An  allusion  to  the  name  of  this  celebrated  traveller 
cannot  pass  without  a  hope  being  expressed  that  his  valuable  obser- 
vations, during  a  long  residence  in  Greece,  will  be  communicated  to 
the  Public. 


154  FROM    CAFFA, 

CHAP.        After  we  had  travelled  for  some  time  over 
,.  iy..    '  this  kind  of  territory,  the  road  gradually  drew 
nearer  to  the  mountains.     The  appearance  of 
antient  tumuli,  increasing  as  we  advanced,  de- 
noted the  vicinity  of  some  antient  city.     This 
stara    was  STARA  GRIM  :  the  approach  to  it  is  by  a 

XT  •  r*  v 

bold  valley,  or  defile,  formed  by  a  mountain 
detached  from  the  southern  ridge.  A  variety 
of  beautiful  shrubs  and  trees  appeared  among 
the  ruins :  the  mountains  were  covered  with 
brushwood.  Passing  a  bridge,  whose  massive 
masonry  resembled  the  style  of  labour  used  by 
antient  Etrurians  in  the  walls  of  Crotona,  we 
were  surrounded  by  the  remains  of  mosques, 
Ruined  baths,  and  other  mouldering  edifices  :  some  of 

Baths. 

these  still  retained  marks  of  great  magnificence1. 
We  entered  a  building  which  yet  remained 
entire.  It  consisted  of  one  large  area,  sur- 
mounted by  a  beautiful  dome,  and  surrounded 
by  eight  smaller  chambers :  its  walls  were 


(1)  According  to  an  observation  in  the  17th  book  of  Strabo's  Geo- 
graphy, concerning  the  mountainous  territory  extending  from  the  harbour 
of  the  Symboli,  or  Balaclava,  to  Theodosia,  hereabouts  ought  to  be  the 
situation  of  the  latter;  for  here  the  mountainous  district  terminates. 
And  that  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  Stara  Crim  was  antiently 
Theodosia,  will  appear  from  the  following  citation  :  *'  Atque  nunc  etiam 
urbes  ibi  nonnullaj  quamvis  pessundatac,  amplitudine  tamen  ambituum 
suorum  et  ruinarum,  superbae  olim  fuisse  apparent,  et  praesertim  quae  a 
nobis  Solholth,  a  Moscis  KRTM,  a  Graecis  THEODOSIA  appellabatur  quon- 
dam." Excerpla  e  Michalonis  Lituani  Fragmentis.  L.Bat,  1630. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  155 

covered  with  antient  stucco,  coloured  in  dis-  CHAP. 
temper.  Such  a  style  of  architecture  is  seen 
in  those  buildings  which  are  vulgarly  called 
temples  of  Venus  and  Diana,  at  Baia  in  Italy ; 
and  which  were  originally  public  baths  belonging 
to  that  fashionable  watering-place  of  the  antient 
Romans'2.  The  ceremonies,  the  uses,  and  abuses 
of  the  bath,  were  so  generally  adopted,  and 
prevailed  with  so  little  alteration  among  the 
antient  Heathens,  that  there  is  reason  to  believe 
they  were  invariably  practised  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Greece,  Italy,  and  more  Oriental  countries3. 


(2)  The  pipes  and  steam-channels  existed  in   the  year  1793.      In  the 
bath   called   the  Temple  of  Venus,   every  appearance  corresponded   with 
the  public  baths  of  the  Eastern  empire.     At  the  conquest  of  Constan- 
tinople by    the    Turks,    its  conquerors  preserved  the  sumptuous    baths 
found  in  the  city,  and  these  to  this   day  offer  a  model  of  the  edifices  at 
Baia. 

(3)  These  observations,  made  upon  the  spot,  were  the  result  of  a  con- 
viction upon  the  author's  mind  that  the  ruins  at  Stara  Grim  are  those  of 
an  antient  Grecian  city.     He  found  it  impossible  to  reconcile  the  anti- 
quities of  that  place  with  the  ordinary  style  of  Tahtarian  or  of  Turkish. 
architecture;  and  has  been  induced,  by  the  extract  cited  in  Note  (1),  to 
consider  those  remains  as  denoting  the  situation  of  Theodosia  •  a  city 
ruined  anterior  to  the  age  of  Arrian.     The  Legate  Sroniovius  does  not 
seem  to  have  entertained  this  opinion ;  but  has  identified  the  situation  of 
Stara  Crim  (a  name  implying  the  Old  Crim)  with  that  of  Taphrte ;  placed 
by  some  Writers  upon  the  isthmus  of  the  Peninsula,  where  there  are  no 
appearances  answering  to  his  description.     It  is  evident,  however,  that  his 
observations  apply  to  these  ruins.    The  word?  of  Broniorius  are  as  follow : 
"  CKEMUM,  seu  ut  a  Tartaris  Crintum  dicinir,  civitas  et  arx  muro  anti- 
quissimo,  maximo  ac  prfealto,  magnitudine  ac  celebritate  reliquis  civita- 
tibxis  Tauricae,   Chersonesi  mediterranese,    (nam  Ptolemaeus  ita  nominal) 

admodum 


156  FROM    CAFFA, 

CHAP.  The  sculpture  and  the  painting,  visible  in  those 
edifices,  were  frequently  employed  in  licentious 
and  detestable  representations,  such  as  were 
consistent  with  the  orgies  whereby  public 
bagnios  were  degraded :  and  those  who  are  at 
a  loss  to  reconcile  the  pictured  abominations  of 
Baia  with  the  solemnities  of  a  temple,  may 


admodum  dissimihs  est.  Ptolemseo  fortasse  Taphros,  Plinio  vero  Taphrae 
earn  antiquis  nominatam  fuisse  placet.  Ilia  postremis  jam  temporibus 
ante  Genuensium  in  Tauricam  adventum  a  maximo  populo  Mahometico, 
qui  ex  Asia  eo  turn  migraverant,  culta  et  inhabitata  fuisse  videtur.  Nam 
tumpla  seu  delubra  antiqua  Mahometica  non  solum  in  civitate  ipsa,  verum 
et  ultra  civitatem,  plurima  admodum  cum  characteribus  Chalda'icis  in 
grandioribus  saxis  excisis  conspiciuntur.  Turcae  seu  Tartari  non  panci 
admodum  incolae,  Graeci  tamen  rariores,  hoc  referunt,  quod  majores  sui 
constanter  meminerint,  earn  civitatem  a  Persarum  olim  gente  inhabitatam, 
prsestantem  ac  primariara  fere  officinam  mechanicarum  artium  quondam 
earn  extitisse.  Liquet  sane  ex  ipsis  minis,  et  loci  amplitudine,  urbcm 
earn  quondam  clarissimam,  et  maximam  gentium  coloniam  extitisse. 
Tartari  ab  eo  loco  Crimeiises  vulgo  nunc  appellantur.  Officinam  monetu- 
riam  quam  Chanus  cudit,  in  ea  civitate  perpetuam  hahent.  In  arce,  quae 
maxima  ad  civitatem  est,  uxores  Chanorum  perpetud  asservantur  ct  con- 
senescunt."  Martini  Jironiovii  Tartaria.  L,  Bat.  1630.  The  author  of 
the  anonymous  Periplus  of  the  Eujcine  states  the  distance  from  the  city  of 
Panticapceum  to  Cimmerhtm  as  equal  to  25O  stadia,  or  thirty-otie  miles 
two  furlongs:  and  this  coincides  with  the  distance  of  JCertchy  from  Stara 
Crim.  "  "Aaro  St  Hctirmettfeuau  tratetv;  'iu;  Kiftfttfltu  frdbia  tp.'.  Sic  enim 
leg-  Votsiut  in  Peripl.  Anonym.  Pont.  Euxin.  p.  142.  L.  Bat.  1697." 
Vossiusadds,  "  Ptolemeeus  hanc  quoque  mcditerraneam  facit:  ne&cio  qua 
ratione.  Cave  autem  confundat  id  oppidum  cum  alte.ro  ejusdem  nominis, 
quod  it  TJ)  xifitia,,  atque  itidem  in  ore  Sospori."  The  fact  is,  that  Stars 
Crim  is  the  place  alluded  to  by  Ptolemy;  answering,  by  its  situation,  to 
the  distance  assigned,  both  from  Sudak,  and  from  Panticapeeum,  by  the 
author  of  the  anonymous  Periplus. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

perhaps  more  easily  account  for  their  appear-    CHAP. 
ance  as  the  ornaments  of  a  Pagan  bath. 


In  the  midst  of  these  very  picturesque  ruins,  vnia  of 
sheltered  by  mountains,  and  shaded  by  beau-  press." 
tiful  trees,  stands  one  of  those  villas  erected 
for  the  Empress  CATHERINE,  when  she  visited 
the  Crimea.  At  every  place  where  she  halted 
for  repose,  or  was  expected  to  pass  a  night, 
she  found  a  palace  prepared  for  her  reception. 
Many  of  these  are  still  maintained :  others,  like 
this  at  Stara  Crim,  are  suffered  to  decay.  They 
usually  consisted  of  a  bed-chamber  for  the 
Empress,  with  a  bath  adjoining,  a  ball-room,  a 
small  chapel,  and  a  few  other  apartments  for 
her  guards  and  attendants.  Nothing  at  present 
interrupts  the  melancholy  solitude  of  her  villa 
at  Stara  Crim.  Some  of  the  chambers  were 
filled  by  heaps  of  the  common  liquorice-root, 
collected,  for  the  use  of  the  military  hospitals, 
from  the  neighbouring  woods,  where  it  grows 
wild,  and  attains  great  perfection.  Upon  the 
mountains  to  the  south  of  this  place,  in  one 
of  those  wild  and  secluded  situations  where 
zealous  devotees  delight  to  fix  their  habitation, 
is  an  Armenian  monastery :  we  could  obtain  no 
other  information  concerning  it,  than  that  it 
was  worth  seeing,  on  account  of  the  suiv 
rounding  scenery. 


158  FROM    CAFFA, 

As  we  left  Stara  dim  to  proceed  towards 
Karasubazar,  we  passed  another  vallum,  still 
very  entire :  and  judging  of  it  from  its  length, 
it  must  have  been  once  a  boundary  of  great 
importance.  Hence,  crossing  continual  steppes, 
and  always  over  a  flat  country,  with  a  view  of 
the  mountains  towards  the  south,  we  came  to 
Karasubazar1.  Before  we  reached  this  place,  a 
Remark,  very  remarkable  mountain  appeared  upon  our 
tain."  right  hand,  being  quite  flat  at  the  summit,  and 
surrounded  by  precipices  so  perpendicular, 
with  such  even  surfaces,  that  it  seemed  like  a 
work  of  art,  as  if  it  were  intended  for  a  prodi- 
gious fortress.  Upon  the  top  of  this  mountain 
the  Tahtars  assembled  in  council  during  the 
last  rebellion  against  their  Khan;  this  extra- 
ordinary spot  being  considered  by  them  as  an 
appointed  place  of  rendezvous  in  every  crisis2. 
The  situation  is  well  suited  for  such  a  meeting; 
and  a  most  sublime  subject  might  have  been 
afforded  for  the  pencil  of  a  Salvator,  or  a 
MORTIMER,  when  the  rebel  chiefs  of  Tahtary, 

(1)  The  distinctions  of  black  and  white  water  seem  to  constitute  many 
of  the  appellations  of  rivers  and  lakes  in  all  Mohammedan  countries.    Kara 
Su.   Bazar  signifies  nothing   more   than   the   Slack-Water  Market;  the 
name  of  a  river,  called  Kara  Sit,  or  Black  Water,  being  joined  to  baxar, 
the  common  word  for  market. 

(2)  According  to  Pallas,  it  is  called  Akltaya,  or  the  While  Mount,  by 
the  Tahtars;  and  Sfiirinskaya  Gora  by  the  Russians,  alluding  to  the  use 
made  of  it  by  the  nobles  of  Sliirins'cy.     Travels,  vol.11,  p.  252, 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  159 

mounted  upon  their  fleet  coursers,  and  attended 
by  their  chosen  bands  in  the  savage  dresses  of 
the  country,  held  their  conference  in  this  aerial 
solitude. 


Karambazar  has  not  suffered  so  much  as 
other  towns  of  the  Crimea  since  its  conquest 
by  the  Russians  ;  yet  it  exhibits  many  ruins,  as 
the  sad  memorials  of  their  dominion  :  these, 
with  a  long  street  of  shops,  are  perhaps  all 
that  a  traveller  would  notice.  The  Tahtar 
coemeteries  have  been  divested  of  tomb-stones, 
to  constitute  materials  for  building;  although 
the  country  affords  most  excellent  limestone, 
which  might  be  removed  from  the  quarries  with 
almost  as  little  trouble  as  the  destruction  of  the 
grave-stones  occasions  to  the  Russians.  Many 
of  the  houses  are  built  with  unbaked  bricks, 
which,  after  being  formed  in  a  mould,  have  been 
hardened  merely  by  exposure  to  the  sun  and 
air.  In  this  manner  the  antient  Grecians  some- 
times fabricated  earthen  vessels,  when  they 
wished  to  present  offerings  of  the  purest  clay 
in  the  temples  of  their  Gods3.  The  commo- 
dities of  the  Crimea  are  said  to  be  purchased  at 
a  cheaper  rate  in  Karasubazar  than  in  any  other 

(3)    Appendix  to  Greek  Marbles,  p.  71. 


160  FROM    CAFFA, 

market  of  the  Peninsula1.  The  principal  shops 
are  employed  in  the  sale  of  leather,  particularly 
of  the  Morocco  kind ;  this  they  prepare  them- 
selves; also  in  pottery,  hard-ware,  soap, 
candles,  fruit,  and  vegetables.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  amounts  to  about  370O,  male  and 
female:  this  number  includes  a  very  mixed 
population  of  Tahtar s,  Russians,  Greeks,  Jeivs, 
Italians,  and  Armenians. 


From  Karasubazar  we  journeyed  to  AKMET- 
^T2,  the  residence  of  the  Governor-general  of 
the  Crimea.  The  Russians,  since  the  Peninsula 
came  into  their  hands,  have  endeavoured  to 
give  to  this  place  the  name  of  Sympheropol;  but 
we  never  heard  it  called  by  any  other  appel- 
lation, in  the  country,  than  that  which  it  received 
from  the  Tahtars.  The  town  was  once  beautiful, 
owing  to  the  numerous  trees  that  filled  the 
valley  where  the  Salgir  flows ;  but  the  Russians 
have  laid  all  waste.  Scarcely  a  bush  now 
remains.  ^ikmetchet  will  however  long  be 
celebrated  as  the  residence  of  Professor  Pallas, 
so  well  known  to  the  literary  world  for  his 
Travels,  and  already  so  often  mentioned  in  this 
work.  His  fame  would  have  been  sufficiently 

(I)  Pallas' s  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  251. 

('J>  A  Tahtar  word,  bignifuug  "  The  White  Church." 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  161 

established  if  he  had  published  no  other  work 
than  the  Flora  Rossica,  which  was  begun  by  him 
under  such  favourable  auspices  ;  yet  the 
barbarity  of  the  people  with  whom  he  is  com- 
pelled to  live,  is  such,  that  they  will  not  allow 
him  to  complete  the  undertaking.  The  drawings 
were  all  finished,  and  almost  the  whole  of  the 
text.  To  his  hospitable  and  humane  attentions 
we  were  indebted  for  comforts,  equal,  if  not 
superior,  to  those  of  our  own  country  ;  and  for 
every  literary  communication  which  it  was  in 
his  power  to  afford.  When  we  delivered  to 
him  our  letters  of  recommendation,  he  received 
us  rather  as  a  parent,  than  as  a  stranger  to 
whose  protection  we  had  been  consigned.  We 
refused  to  intrude  by  occupying  apartments  in 
his  house  ;  which  had  more  the  appearance  of 
a  palace,  than  of  the  residence  of  a  private 
gentlemen :  but  one  day,  when  we  were  absent 
upon  an  excursion,  he  caused  all  our  things  to 
be  moved,  and  upon  our  return  we  found  a  suit 
of  rooms  prepared  in  his  mansion  for  our  recep- 
tion, with  every  convenience  for  study  and 
repose.  The  author  considers  himself  as  being 
indebted  to  him  even  for  his  life.  The  fatigue 
of  travelling,  added  to  the  effect  of  bad  air  and 
unwholesome  food,  had  rendered  a  quartan 
fever  so  habitual  to  him,  that  had  it  not  been 
for  the  care  and  the  medical  skill  of  his  benc- 


IV. 


162  FROM    CAFF  A, 

CHAP.  voient  Host,  he  could  not  have  lived  to  make 
this  grateful  acknowledgment.  Having  pre- 
scribed for  him,  the  worthy  Professor  admini- 
stered every  medicine  with  his  own  hands ; 
carefully  guarded  his  diet ;  and,  after  nursing 
him  as  his  own  son,  at  last  restored  him  to 
health.  When  he  recovered,  the  same  exemplary 
friend,  from  his  own  collection,  provided  him 
with  drawings,  charts,  maps,  books,  antiquities, 
minerals,  and  whatsoever  else  might  serve  to 
gratify  his  curiosity,  or  to  promote  the  object 
of  his  travels ;  accompanying  him  upon  the 
most  wearisome  excursions,  in  search,  not 
only  of  the  insects  and  plants  of  the  country, 
but  also  of  every  document  likely  to  illustrate 
either  its  antient  or  its  modern  history1.  The 
declining  years  of  this  celebrated  man  have 
been  embittered  by  a  variety  of  unmerited 
affliction :  this  he  has  borne  even  with  Stoical 
philosophy.  Splendid  as  his  residence  appeared, 


(1)  If  either  he  or  his  family  should  ever  cast  their  eyes  upon  these 
pages,  they  will  here  find  the  only  testimony  of  gratitude  we  have  been 
able  to  render  for  such  unexampled  benevolence.  His  kindness  has 
indeed  been  ill  requited  ;  the  political  differences  between  England  and 
Russia,  together  with  other  untoward  circumstances,  have  put  it  out  of 
our  power  to  fulfil  even  the  few  commissions  with  which  he  honoured  us, 
when  we  parted.  The  profile  of  him,  engraved  as  a  Vignette  to  this 
Chapter,  was  taken  from  the  life  by  the  author :  as  it  offers  a  most 
striking  resemblance  of  his  features,  it  is  hoped  its  introduction  will  not 
be  deemed  a  superfluous  addition  to  the  number  of  engravings. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  163 

the  air  of  the  place  was  so  bad,  that  the  most  CHAP. 
rigid  abstinence  from  every  kind  of  animal  food 
was  insufficient  to  preserve  his  family  from 
fevers.  We  left  him  resolved  to  pass  the 
remaining  portion  of  his  life  in  cultivating  vine- 
yards, among  the  rocks  of  Sudak,  upon  the 
south  coast  of  the  Peninsula.  There  was  reason 
to  hope,  that,  upon  the  death  of  PAUL,  he  would 
have  been  called  to  honours  and  emoluments ; 
but  subsequent  travellers  in  Russia  do  not 
furnish  intelligence  so  creditable  to  the  admini- 
stration of  the  new  sovereign.  When  the  late 
Empress  CATHERINE  sent  him  to  reside  in  the 
Crimea,  with  a  grant  of  lands  in  the  Peninsula, 
it  was  intended  for  the  re-establishment  of  his 
health,  and  as  a  reward  for  his  long  services : 
neither  of  these  purposes  had  however  been 
accomplished.  A  magnificent  establishment,  in 
the  midst  of  an  unwholesome  air,  was  all  the 
recompence  he  had  obtained.  Owing  to  these 
circumstances,  we  find  him,  in  the  sixtieth 
year  of  a  life  devoted  to  science,  opening  his 
last  publication  with  an  illusion  to  "  the 
disquietude  and  hardships  ivhich  oppress  him  in  his 
present  residence,  and  embitter  his  declining  days*? 
We  used  every  endeavour  to  prevail  upon  him 
to  quit  the  country,  and  to  accompany  us  to 

(2)  Sec  Preface  to  Vol.  II.  of  his  Travels  in  the  South  of  Russia. 
"VOL.   II.  M 


[64  FROM    CAFFA, 

CHAP.    England ;  which  he  often  expressed  a  wish  to 

IV. 

do :  but  the  advanced  period  of  his  life,  added 
to  the  certainty  of  having  all  his  property  in 
Russia  confiscated,  prevented  his  acquiescence- 
The  ceremony  of  his  daughter's  marriage  with 
a  German  officer  took  place  during  our  resi- 
dence with  him  in  the  Crimea,  and  was  cele- 
brated according  to  the  rights  of  the  Greek 
Church;  so  that,  being  absolved  from  almost 
every  tie  that  might  require  his  presence  in 
the  country,  there  was  reason  to  hope  he  would 
have  listened  to  our  proposals.  By  acceding 
to  them,  his  life  might  have  been  prolonged, 
and  his  publications  completed.  Our  entreaties, 
however,  were  to  no  effect ;  and,  perhaps,  before 
this  meets  the  public  eye,  our  friend  and  bene- 
factor will  be  no  more1. 

Owing  to  the  influence  of  Professor  Pallas, 
much  of  the  injury  had  been  prevented  which 
Akmetchet,  in  common  with  other  towns  of  the 
Crimea,  would  have  sustained.  Many  of  the 


(l)  The  liberality  of  Pallas,  and  an  almost  unpardonable  indif- 
ference to  the  piracy  of  bis  writings,  may  be  assigned  as  the  reason  why 
certain  of  his  compositions  have  appeared  in  this  country  without  any 
due  acknowledgment  being  made  of  their  author.  The  "  Memoir  of  a 
Mttp  of  the  Countries  comprehended  between  the  lilack  Sea  and  the 
Caspian,"  Land.  1788  ;  was  written  entirely  by  Pallna,  as  he 
informed  us. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  165 

Tahtar  buildings  had  been  suffered  to  remain, 
and  the  public  fountains  were  still  unimpaired. 
The  place  owed  all  its  importance  to  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  being  the  residence  of  the 
Governor -general  of  the  Crimea,  a  veteran 
officer  of  the  name  of  Michelson,  formerly  re- 
nowned for  the  service  he  rendered  to  Russia, 
in  the  defeat  of  the  rebel  Pugatchef.  In  other 
respects,  it  is  one  of  the  least  eligible  situ- 
ations in  the  Crimea.  Its  inhabitants  are  subject 

to  frequent   fevers   during   the   summer,    and  Unwhole- 
some Sltu- 

the  water  is  less  salutary  than  in  other  parts  ationof^t- 
of  the  Peninsula.  Fruit  and  vegetables,  which 
are  common  in  the  southern  villages,  can  only 
be  procured  at  Akmeicliet  by  purchase  from 
the  Tahtars.  As  a  town,  it  has  a  mean  and 
an  insignificant  appearance :  the  streets  are 
narrow,  unpaved,  and  filthy,  containing  only  a 
few  shops,  which  are  maintained  entirely  by 
Greeks.  The  Salgir,  hardly  deserving  the  name 
of  a  river,  flows  in  a  valley  near  the  town. 
The  neighbourhood  abounds  with  game ;  so 
that  the  officers  of  the  garrison  are  enabled  to 
amuse  themselves  with  almost  every  kind  of 
European  chace.  They  hunt  the  stag,  the  fox, 
and  the  hare.  Hawking  is  also  a  favourite 
pastime ;  the  Tahtars  being  very  skilful  in 
training  birds  for  that  purpose.  A  few  days 
after  we  took  up  our  residence  with  Professor 

M  2 


166  FROM    CAFFA, 

CHAP.    Pallas,  some  Tahtars  brought  him  a  beautiful 
little  animal,  called  The  jumping  Hare.     It  has 
-  borne  a  variety  of  names ',  but  it  is  in  fact  the 
boa-          same  as  the  African  Jerboa.     We  saw  it  after- 
wards in  Egypt,    although  it  be  not  common 
either  there  or  in  the  Crimea.     It  may  be  called 
the  Kangaroo  in  miniature,  as  it  has  the  same 
form;  but  it  is  smaller  than  a  rabbit;   and  it 
assists  itself,  like  the  Kangaroo,  with   its  tail 
in  leaping.  That  which  Professor  Pallas  received 
was   a  pregnant  female,  containing  two  young 
ones.     Its  colour  was  a  light  grey,  excepting 
the  belly:  this  was  almost  white.     Its  fore-feet 
are  attached  to  its  breast  without  any  legs ;  so 
that,  in  all  its  motions,  it  makes  use  only  of  its 
hinder  quarters,    bounding    and   making  sur- 
prising leaps  on  being   disturbed.     We  after- 
wards caught  one  in  the  steppes ;  this  we  stuffed, 
and  brought  to  England.     Professor  Pallas  him- 
self did  not  seem  to  be  aware  that  the  Mas 
Jaculus,   which  was  the  name  he  gave  it2,  is 
the  animal  mentioned  by  Shaw,  in  his  account 
of  Barbary3;  nor  was  it  until  we  became  enabled 


(1)  Allusion  has  been  already  made   to  the   confusion    introduced 
iu  zoology,   by  the  different  names,  and  discordant  accounts,  which 
travellers  have  given  of  this  animal.    See  p.  325  of  former  Volume. 

(2)  See  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.457- 

(3)  Shaw's  Travels,  p.  177,  4to.  ed.   London,  1757. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  167 

to  make  the  comparison  ourselves,  in  Africa,    CHAP. 
that  we  discovered  the  Jerboa  to  be  the  same  i — ,-_/ 
kind  of  quadruped  we  had   before   known  in 
the  Crimea.    Bochart  supposes  this  little  animal  Observa- 
to  be  the  Saphan  of  the  Scriptures4:    "  The  high  chart  upon 
hills  are  a  refuge  for  the  wild   goats,  and  so 
are  the   stony  rocks  for  the  Saphannim :"  this 
our   Translation    renders    "  Conies"      Shaw   is 
however    undecided   upon    the    subject;    but 
he    supposes   the  Jerboa,  from    the    remarka- 
ble disproportion  of  its   fore  and  hinder  legs, 
may  be  taken  for  one  of  the  two-footed  rats 
mentioned  by  Herodotus  and  by  other  authors *. 
The  whole  merit  of  either  of  these  observations, 
if  there  be  any,   is   due,    first  to  the   learned 
Bochart,    and    afterwards    to    the    labours    of 
Haym,  in  the  illustration  of  a  medal  of  Cyrene, 
where   this  animal  is  represented;    but  Shaw, 
after  the  introduction  of  those  observations  in 
his  work,  not  only  does  not  acknowledge  whence 
he  derived  the   information,  but  even   asserts 
that  the  animal  described  by   Haym  was  not 
the  Jerboa.  It  seems  clear  that  it  was ;  although, 


(4)  See  Bochart,   Hierozmcon.  Pars  II.  cap.  33.    Lond.  1663.   "Pro- 
batur  Sapfuin  non  esse  cuiiiculum,  sed  majoris  muris  genus,  in  Palaes- 
tina,"  &c.  &c. 

(5)  Shaw's  Travels,   p.  177.     See  also  the  Authors  cited  by  him  t 
Herodot.  Melp.  TUeoph.  apud  jElian.  Hist.  Anim.  lib.  xv.  c.  26.  Photius, 
Hid.    Arist.  de  Murib.  JEgypt. 


FROM    CAFFA, 

in  the  engraving  published  by  Haym,  the  fore-- 
feet  be  represented  rather  too  long.  A  century 
ago  they  did  not  pay  attention  to  minute  accu- 
racy in  such  representations  ;  and  nearly  this 
time  has  elapsed  since  the  work  of  Haym 
appeared l.  His  mode  of  expressing  himself 
is  certainly  somewhat  equivocal,  because  he 
says,  "  when  it  ran,  it  went  hopping  like  a 
bird;"  but  the  words  "  e  sempre  camina  sopra 
due  piedi  solamente,"  as  well  as  "  salta  molt"  alto 
quand'  £  spavurito"  when  added  to  the  engraved 
representation,  plainly  prove  what  the  animal 
was.  It  is  generally  esteemed  as  an  article  of 
food,  in  all  countries  where  it  is  found.  It 
burrows  in  the  ground  like  a  rabbit ;  but  seems 
more  to  resemble  the  squirrel  than  either  that 
animal  or  the  rat.  Its  fine  dark  eyes  have  all 
the  lustre  of  the  antelope's.  Haym  says,  the 
smell  of  it  is  never  offensive  when  kept  domes- 
tic ;  and  indeed  it  may  be  considered  one  of 
the  most  pleasing  harmless  little  quadrupeds 
hitherto  described.  Gmelin  observed  it  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Woronetz  in  1768:  Mes- 
serschmied,  in  Siberia ;  and  Hasselquist,  in  Egypt  *. 


(1)  Hayrn's  Tesoro  Britannico  was  published  in  1720.      He  had  the 
animal  alive ;  and  a  very  curious  account  of  it  is  given  in  the  second 
volume  of  his  work,  p.  124. 

(2)  Journal  des  Savans  Voyageurs,  p.  76. 


TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  100 

When  our  army  was  encamped  near  Alexandria, 
during  the  late  campaign  in  Egijpt,  the  soldiers 
preserved  some  of  these  animals  in  boxes,  and 
fed  them  like  rabbits. 


From  Akmetchet  the  distance  is  only  thirty 
versts3  to  BAKTCHESERAI,  once  the  residence 
of  the  Khan,  and  the  Tahtar  capital  of  the 
Crimea.  As  it  was  our  intention  to  make  the 
tour  of  all  the  south  part  of  the  Peninsula,  we 
lost  no  time  in  setting  out  for  this  place.  We 
met  several  caravans,  principally  laden  with 
cucumbers,  of  such  immense  length  and  size, 
that  the  statement  of  their  dimensions  will  per- 
haps not  be  believed.  We  measured  some  that 
were  in  length  above  two  feet:  There  is  no 
article  of  food  so  grateful  to  a  Russian  as  the 
salted  cucumber  ;  and  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Crimea  cultivate  the  plant  for  the  sake  of  the 
pickle  it  affords.  They  have  varieties  of  this 
vegetable,  which  are  unknown  in  England  ; 
among  others,  one  that  is  snow-white  ;  and  it  is 
this  singular  variety  which  attains  the  astonishing 
size  before  mentioned,  without  either  running 
to  seed  or  losing  any  of  its  crisp  and  refreshing 
flavour.  The  country,  as  we  advanced,  be- 
came more  diversified  with  wood.  Near  to  the 

(3)  Twenty  English  miles. 


1/0  BAKTCHESERAI, 

villages  we  saw  some  good  crops  of  corn  and 
of  hay.  It  was  before  observed,  that  a  tra- 
veller, unless  he  visit  the  southern  coast,  may 
pass  over  all  the  rest  of  the  Crimea,  and  conclude, 
from  its  appearance,  that  the  whole  country  is 
a  flat  and  dreary  steppe.  BAKTCHESERAI  is  the 
first  object,  in  the  journey  from  Yenikale  to 
Sevastopole,  which  interrupts  the  dull  uniformity 
of  at  least  two  thirds  of  the  Peninsula,  to  the 
north  of  Tchetirdagh  and  of  the  other  mountains 
facing  the  Black  Sea  upon  the  southern  side.  It 
Novel  ap-  jg  one  of  ^Q  most  remarkable  towns  in  Enrobe  : 

pearance  of  r 

Eaktcke-     first,  in  the  novelty  of  its  manners  and  customs  ; 

term.  m          J 

these  are  strictly  Oriental,  and  betray  nothing 
of  an  European  character :  secondly,  in  the  site 
of  the  town  itself;  occupying  the  craggy  sides 
of  a  prodigious  natural  fosse  between  two  high 
mountains,  somewhat  like  the  appearance  exhi- 
bited by  Matlock  in  Derbyshire.  The  view 
breaks  all  at  once  upon  the  traveller,  exhibiting 
a  variety  of  objects  in  a  most  irregular  and 
scattered  manner ;  while  bubbling  fountains, 
running  waters,  gardens,  terraces,  hanging  vine- 
yards, and  groves  of  the  black  poplar,  seem  to 
soften  the  horror  of  rocks  and  precipices,  and 
even  to  make  them  appear  inviting.  The  reli- 
gious veneration  entertained  by  the  Tahtars 
Fountains,  for  their  fountains  induces  them  to  spare  no 
expense  in  order  to  supply  them  with  the 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  171 

purest  water.  These  fountains  are  almost  as 
necessary  to  the  ceremonies  of  the  mosque 
as  they  are  ornamental  to  the  town;  since 
every  true  Moslem  washes  his  head,  his  beard, 
his  hands,  and  his  feet,  before  he  proceeds  to 
prayer.  The  number  of  fountains  is  so  great 
in  Baktcheserai,  that  they  are  seen  in  all  parts 
of  the  city ;  water  flowing  from  them  day  and 
night,  cold  as  ice  and  clear  as  crystal.  One 
of  these  fountains  had  not  less  than  ten  spouts, 
whence  the  purest  streams  continually  fell  upon 
slabs  of  marble.  Four  times  in  every  twenty- 
four  hours  the  Tahlars,  invoked  by  their  Mullas 
from  the  lofty  minarets,  are  seen  assembled, 
performing  their  ablutions,  and  proceeding  to 
their  mosques.  If  Paleys  position  be  admitted, 
that  "  a  man  who  is  in  earnest  about  religion 
cannot  be  a  bad  man  ',"  the  Mohammedans,  being 
more  in  earnest  than  any  sect  of  worshippers 
upon  earth,  are  entitled  to  respect ;  and  it  must 
be  confessed,  we  never  beheld  a  Moslem  at  his 
prayers  without  feeling  a  kindling  awe,  inspired 
by  the  sincerity  of  his  devotion.  No  utterance 
escapes  his  lips,  excepting  the  name  of  God, 
which  is  heard  at  intervals,  accompanied  by 
low  impressive  sighs.  His  whole  soul  seems  to 
be  absorbed  in  intellectual  communion  with  the 

(1)  Paley's  Sermons,  Disr.  I.     Loud.  1808, 


1/2  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CIT^r'    object  of  his  worship  ;  nor  can  any  thing  divert 
his  attention  '. 


Destine-         Jo  describe  what  Bahtcheserai  was,  it  would 

tion  caused 

by  the  itus-  be  necessary  to  convey  ideas  at  least  adequate 

sian  troops.  .  . 

to  the  present  appearance  ot  its  rums  :  and  this 
is  very  difficult.  The  savage  and  the  wanton 
barbarity  of  the  Russians  found  in  the  magnifi- 
cence of  this  capital  wherewith  to  exercise,  in 
its  full  scope,  their  favourite  passion  for  destruc- 
tion. The  city  was  divided  into  several  depart- 
ments ;  the  Greek  colony  alone  occupying  one 
entire  and  extensive  valley.  This  they  entirely 
demolished  ;  not  leaving  one  stone  upon  another. 
The  palace  of  the  Khan,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  was  the  edifice  where  he  usually  resided  ; 
but  he  had  a  favourite  and  more  pleasing  retire- 
ment, in  a  magnificent  mansion  most  delight- 
fully situate,  beneath  a  mountain  upon  the 
sloping  side  of  a  beautiful  vale.  This  they  so 


(l)  The  efficacy  of  inward  devotion,  as  contrasted  with  external  offer- 
ings, is  recommended  with  powerful  simplicity  in  a  specimen  of  early 
Engluh  poetry,  as  old  as  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  preserved  in 
the  Travels  of  "  Oertaine  Englishmen  intofarre  Countries,"  printed  in 
160.9.  H  is  the  end  of  a  Latin  inscription  in  the  Church  atfbloicne  (on 
the  offerings  of  the  Three  Kings],  thus  translated  into  English  metre. 
"  For  Gold  present  a  perfect  heart; 

For  Myrrh  admit  him  tears  ; 
For  Frankincense,  powre  from  thy  brest 
A  fume  of  humble  praiers  !" 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  173 

completely  erased,  that,  without  a  guide  to  CHAP. 
the  spot,  no  one  can  discover  even  where  it  <•  y-  .• 
stood.  Of  the  rest  of  the  city  not  above  one 
third  now  remains.  If  we  were  to  detail  half 
the  cruelties,  the  extortions,  the  rapine,  and 
the  barbarity  practised  by  the  Russians  upon 
the  devoted  inhabitants  of  the  Crimea,  and 
their  deluded  Khan,  the  narrative  would  exceed 
belief.  We  have  the  authority  of  one  of  their 
commanders,  whom  we  shall  not  name,  for 
the  following  statement.  When  the  Mullas,  or 
Tahtar  priests,  ascended  the  minarets  at  mid- 
day, to  proclaim  the  hour  of  noon,  according 
to  their  usual  custom,  the  Russian  soldiers 
amused  themselves  by  firing  at  them  with 
muskets  ;  and  in  one  of  these  instances  a  priest 
was  killed.  The  repugnancy  of  every  English 
reader  to  credit  such  enormities  may  lead  him 
to  doubt  the  veracity  of  the  representation, 
although  it  be  given,  as  it  was  received,  from 
an  eye-witness  of  the  fact. 

The  capture  of  the  Crimea  excited  the  atten-  Causes 
tionof  all  Europe;  but  the  circumstances  which  to  "he  de- 
caused  the  deposition  and  death  of  the  Khan  are 
not  so  generally  known.     They  have  been  art- 
fully concealed  by  the  Russians ;  and   the  bril- 
liancy of  the  conquest  of  the  Crimea,  dazzling 
the  imagination,  has  prevented  a  due  inquiry 


of  the 
Khan. 


174  BAKTCHESERAI, 

into  those  dark  and  sinister  manoeuvres  whereby 
the  plot  was  perfected  for  the  subjection  of 
the  Peninsula.  Potemkin,  arch-priest  of  intrigue 
and  wickedness,  planned  and  executed  the 
whole  of  it ;  to  fulfil  whose  designs,  it  was 
immaterial  what  laws  were  violated,  what  prin- 
ciples trampled,  what  murders  committed,  or 
what  faith  broken.  His  principal  favourites  were 
swindlers,  adventurers,  pimps,  parasites :  un- 
principled men  of  every  description,  but  espe- 
cially unprincipled  men  of  talent,  found  in  him 
a  ready  patron. 

It  is  well  known,  that,  by  the  last  treaty  of 
peace  with  the  Turks,  prior  to  the  conquest  of 
the  Peninsula,  Shahin  Gkirei,  of  the  family  of 
the  Khans,  who  had  been  a  prisoner  and  a 
hostage  at  Petersburg,  was  placed  upon  the 
throne  of  the  Crimea.  This  was  the  first  step 
towards  the  overthrow  of  that  kingdom.  From 
the  moment  of  his  accession,  the  Russian  minister 
in  the  Crimea,  an  artful  and  designing  foreigner, 
well  chosen,  from  Potemkin  s  list,  to  execute  the 
measures  he  had  in  view,  began  to  excite  among 
the  Tahtars  a  hatred  of  their  Sovereign  ;  raising 
commotions  among  them,  buying  over  the  dis- 
affected, and  stimulating  the  people  to  frequent 
insurrection.  In  the  mean  time  he  insinuated 
himself  into  the  good  graces  of  the  Khan, 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  175 

teaching  him  to  do  whatsoever  might  be  most 
unpopular  in  the  eyes  of  his  subjects.     Among 
other  dangerous  absurdities,  he  prevailed  upon 
him  to  place  every  thing  in  his  establishment 
upon  a  Russian  footing ;  to  discipline  his  troops 
after  the  Russian  manner ;  to  build  frigates  upon 
his  coast;   filling  his   head  with   preposterous 
ideas  of  the  navigation  of  the  Black  Sea.     Thus 
he   incurred  enormous   expenses :   these   com-' 
pelled  him  to  drain  his  subjects  of  their  money, 
and   increased   their   murmurs.      The    Russian 
minister,  equally  active  on  both  sides,  lost  no- 
opportunity  either  to  encourage  the  follies  of 
the  Khan,  or  to  augment  the  disaffection  of  the 
nobles.      The  work   succeeded  to  his  utmost 
wishes ;    a  revolt  took  place,   which  soon  be- 
coming  general,   the    terrified    Sovereign   was 
persuaded  to  fly,  first  to  Caffa,  and  afterwards 
to  Toman. 

Then  it  was  that  the  last  master-stroke  of 
political  intrigue  was  effected.  The  Khan  was 
prevailed  on  to  call  in  the  assistance  of  Russian 
troops,  who  were  eagerly  waiting  the  proposal, 
and  as  eagerly  acceded  to  it.  Thus  a  Russian 
army  was  suffered  to  enter,  unmolested,  into  the 
heart  of  the  Crimea.  Under  pretext  of  punish- 
ing those  who  had  rebelled  against  the  Khan  for 
a  revolt  they  had  themselves  excited,  they 


176  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP.  pUt  to  death  whomsoever  they  thought  proper ; 
took  possession  of  the  strong-holds,  and  prac- 
tised their  usual  excesses.  The  Tahtars,  some 
by  compulsion,  others  by  entreaty,  and  a  still 
greater  number  by  terror,  were  driven  from 
their  country,  and  compelled  to  seek  elsewhere 
a  residence.  The  Khan  returned  to  Karasubazar, 
where  the  Russian  army  was  encamped :  and 
there,  in  presence  of  the  Russian  troops,  was 
persuaded  to  order  his  nobles  to  be  stoned  to 
death;  his  pretended  allies  feasting  their  eyes 
with  the  slaughter  of  men  whom  they  had  first 
induced  to  rebel  against  their  sovereign,  and 
afterwards  caused  to  be  butchered  for  having 
complied  with  their  desires.  Thus  the  deluded 
Prince,  and  his  still  more  deluded  subjects,  alike 
duped  by  designing  miscreants  whom  they  had 
allowed  to  take  possession  of  their  country, 
began  at  last  to  open  their  eyes,  and  en- 
deavoured to  rid  themselves  of  an  alliance  so 
fatal  in  its  consequences.  It  was  too  late ;  the 
K/ian  was  himself  prisoner  in  the  very  centre 
of  the  Russian  army.  The  rest  of  their  conduct 
towards  him  exceeds  in  depravity  all  that  had 
preceded. 

A  proposal  was  made  to  him  to  resign  the 
crown  of  the  Crimea ;  to  quit  the  Peninsula ; 
and  to  attest,  by  his  sign-manual,  that  the  indi- 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  177 

viduals  of  his  family,  in  which  the  throne  was 
hereditary,  were   for  ever   rightfully  deposed. 
He   received  the  insolent  proposal    with    the 
astonishment  and   the  indignation   it  merited  j 
but  he  was  reminded,  that,  being  indebted  to  the 
Russians  for  his  kingdom,  he  ought  to  resign  it 
whenever  it  might  accord  with   their  wishes. 
The  reasoning  was  arbitrary ;  but  very  effectual, 
when  enforced  at  the  mouth  of  a  cannon ;  and  an 
unfortunate  Prince,  to  whom  it  is  addressed, 
remains  captive  in  the  camp  of  his  enemies.    In 
addition  to  this  proposal,    conditions  were  an- 
nexed, that,  instead   of  being  deprived   of  his 
dignities    by  compliance,   he  should   have  his 
residence  in  Petersburg ;   that  he  should   hold 
a  court  there,  of  much  greater   splendor  and 
magnificence  than  he  had  known  in  the  Crimea  ; 
that  he  should  be  allowed  an  annual  pension  of 
one  hundred  thousand  roubles,  be  enriched  by  all 
manner  of  presents,  enjoy  the  luxuries  of  that 
great  capital,  and  partake  in  those  amusements 
which  the  magnificence  of  CATHERINE  constantly 
afforded  ;  that  no  restraint  should  be  put  upon 
his  person,  but  that  he  should  be  at  full  liberty 
to  act  as  he  might  think  proper.     The  Khan  saw 
the  snare  into  which  he  had  fallen ;  but  there 
was  no  method   of  liberating  himself.     He  re- 
tained, however,  sufficient  firmness  to  persist  in 
a  refusal :  in  consequence  of  this,  force  com- 


178  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,  pleted  what  entreaty  was  unable  to  accomplish. 
He  was  dragged,  as  a  prisoner,  to  Kaluga*,  a 
wretched  hamlet  upon  the  river  Oka,  yet  rank- 
ing as  the  capital  of  a  government  of  the  same 
name,  and  a  thousand  versts  distant  from  Peters- 
burg. From  this  place  he  was  not  permitted  to 
move.  In  his  miserable  condition,  finding  that 
neither  his  pension  was  paid,  nor  any  single 
engagement  of  the  Russians  fulfilled,  he  insisted 
upon  going  to  Petersburg,  but  was  told  it  could 
not  be  permitted.  At  last,  giving  himself  over 
entirely  to  despondency,  he  exclaimed,  "  Let 
me  be  consigned  as  a  victim  to  the  Turks :  they 
will  not  deny  me,  at  least,  the  privilege  of  choos- 
ing the  manner  of  my  death  ;  since  my  enemies 
have  resolved  on  my  destruction  I"  The  un- 
paralleled cruelty  of  the  Russians  suggested  the 
propriety  of  acceding  to  this  request ;  they 
rejoiced  indeed  to  hear  it  made,  because  it 
offered  an  easy  method  of  getting  rid  of  one 
whom  they  had  pillaged,  and  whose  presence 
was  no  longer  either  necessary  or  desirable. 
They  consequently  exposed  the  unfortunate 
Prince  upon  the  Turkish  frontier,  where  he  was 


(1)  Mr.  Eton  (Survey  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  p.  323,)  says,  he 
"  retired  to  Kaluga"  Was  the  liberty  of  retiring  ever  k  nown  i  n  Russia  f 
A  similar  expression,  however,  occurs  in  p.  308.  "  He  quitted  Russia,, 
and  retired  to  Constantinople."  It  is  hoped  that  Mr.  Eton's  entertaining 
work  did  not  experience  a  revisal  in  the  hands  of  the  Russian  police. 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

taken,   and,  being  afterwards  sent  to   Rhodes,     CHAP. 
was  beheaded2. 


If  it  be  now  asked  how  the  Russians  have  Conse- 

quences  of 

conducted  themselves  with  regard  to  the  Crimea,  the  cap. 

,,  .  ture  of  the 

atter  the  depravity,  the  cruelty,  and  the  murders,  Crimea. 
whereby  it  was  obtained,  the  answer  may  be 
given  in  a  few  words.  They  have  laid  waste 
the  country ;  cut  down  the  trees ;  pulled  down 
the  houses;  overthrown  the  sacred  edifices  of 
the  natives,  with  all  their  public  buildings; 
destroyed  the  public  aqueducts;  robbed  the 
inhabitants ;  insulted  the  Tahtars  in  their  acts  of 
public  worship;  torn  up  from  the  tombs  the 
bodies  of  their  ancestors,  casting  their  relics 
upon  dunghills,  and  feeding  swine  out  of  their 
coffins;  annihilated  all  the  monuments  of  an- 
tiquity; breaking  up  alike  the  sepulchres  of 
Saints  and  Pagans,  and  scattering  their  ashes  in 


(2)  The  Reader,  having  perused  this  narrative,  will  determine  whe- 
ther there  he  any  thing  on  the  part  of  the  French,  respecting  Spain, 
equal  to  the  atrocity  of  the  Russians  in  getting  possession  of  the  Crimea. 
Mr.  Eton,  in  his  Survey  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  p.  304,  says,  their 
right  to  the  Peninsula  was  sacred,  and  that  "  the  mouth  is  unlwly 
which  dares  to  arraign  it."  The  representation  Mr.  E.  has  given,  in 
many  parts  contradicts  itself  :  for  example,  in  p.  327,  he  witnessed  the 
expulsion  of  75,000  Christians  from  the  Crimea,  by  the  Russians, 
almost  all  of  whom  perished,  in  consequence  of  their  cruelty,  in  the 
deserts  of  Nagay;  yet,  in  p.  333, he  says,  "those  whechoteto  remain," 
after  the  seizure  of  the  Crimea,  "  were  left  in  the  quiet  possession  of 
their  property  and  their  religion. 

-VOL.    II.  X 


180  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,  the  air.  "  AVFERRE,  TRVCIDARE,  RAPERE  PALSIS 
NOMINIBVS,  IMPERIVM;  ATQVE,  VBI  SOLITVDINEM 
FACIVNT,  PACEM  ADPELLANT." 


There  was  something  very  emphatical  in  the 
speech  of  a  poor  Tahtar,  who,  one  day  lament- 
ing in  his  garden  the  havoc  made  among  his 
fruit-trees  by  a  severe  frost,  said,  "  We  never 
used  to  experience  such  hard  weather;  but 
since  the  Russians  came,  they  seem  to  have 
brought  their  winter  alongwith  them." 

Palace  of  The  principal  palace  of  the  Khans  is  still  entire, 
and  perhaps  it  may  escape  the  general  destruc- 
tion ;  because  the  late  Empress  ordered  it  to  be 
kept  in  repair,  and  always  according  to  its 
present  Oriental  form.  When  she  came  to  Bak- 
tclieserai,  a  set  of  apartments  had  been  prepared 
for  her,  in  the  French  taste  :  this  gave  her  great 
offence,  and  caused  the  order  for  its  preserva- 
tion, according  to  the  original  style  observed  in 
the  building.  It  is  situate  in  the  midst  of 
gardens ;  from  which  circumstance  the  city  de- 
rives its  name1.  These  gardens  are  filled  with 
fountains  and  fine  fruit-trees.  Its  interior  pre- 
sents the  sort  of  scenery  described  in  Eastern 


(1)  Baktcteserai  signifies  "  A  palace  in  a  garden."      See  Pallas'* 
Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  26. 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  181 

romances,  and  which  our  theatres  endeavour  to 
represent ;  consisting  of  chambers,  galleries, 
and  passages,  so  intricate  and  irregular,  that  it 
is  impossible  to  give  any  plan  of  them,  or  to 
imagine  the  purposes  for  which  they  were  con- 
structed. Upon  the  whole,  it  is  rather  an 
insignificant  building  for  the  residence  of  a 
sovereign.  A  large  hall,  opening  by  means  of 
arches  to  the  gardens  of  the  seraglio,  and  to 
different  courts,  receives  several  staircases, 
winding  from  different  parts  of  the  palace. 
From  this  hall  a  door  conducted  the  Khan  to  a 
small  mosque,  for  his  private  devotion,  when  he 
did  not  choose  to  appear  in  public.  Ascending 
to  the  apartments,  we  found  no  resemblance  to 
any  thing  European.  The  rooms  are  small,  and 
surrounded  by  divans ;  the  windows  concealed 
by  wooden  lattices,  or,  as  they  are  called  by  the 
French,  jalousies.  Some  of  the  windows  look 
only  from  one  room  into  another;  but  being 
intended  perhaps  rather  for  ornament  than  for 
utility,  they  consist  of  small  casements  placed 
in  little  oblong  rows  ;  and  are  at  the  same  time 
so  filled  with  frame  and  lattice-work,  that  no  one 
can  see  through  them.  In  the  windows  of  the 
best  apartments  we  observed  some  painted  glass. 
Several  of  the  staircases,  conducting  from  one 
set  of  rooms  to  another,  are  open  to  the  air; 
but  the  persons  ascending  or  descending  were 

N  2 


182  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,  concealed  from  outward  view  by  trellises.  The 
chief  concern,  both  of  Tahtars  and  Turks,  in  their 
dwellings,  seems  to  be,  to  avoid  observation. 
Their  apartments  are  very  cold,  and,  to  the 
generality  of  Europeans,  would  be  insufferable 
in  winter  ;  but  the  Tahtar,  having  nothing  to  do 
during  that  season  of  the  year,  but  to  sit  smok- 
ing, wrapped  up  in  a  huge  pelisse,  would  find 
the  rooms  equally  insupportable  if  they  were 
warmer. 


Prepare-  A  very  handsome  bath,  prepared  in  one  part 
for  the  re.  of  the  palace  for  the  late  Empress,  is  worthy  of 
Sat"0  notice;  because,  remaining  exactly  as  it  was 

Empress.      fitted   for 


expenditure  of  Potemkin  during  her  celebrated 
journey  to  the  Crimea,  The  same  luxuries  were 
provided  wheresoever  she  halted  ;  together  with 
all  the  elegancies  and  conveniences  of  palaces, 
in  buildings  that  were  furnished  as  if  for  her 
continual  residence.  She  had  adopted  the  daily 
practice  of  bathing  her  body  with  cold  water, 
and  for  that  purpose  the  most  sumptuous  baths 
were  everywhere  constructed  ;  and  although 
many  of  them  were  used  only  once,  they  were 
all  lined  throughout  with  white  cotton  quilts, 
and  were  surrounded  by  carpets  and  by  sofas 
seraglio,  of  the  same  materials.  A  part  of  the  seraglio 
particularly  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  183 

women,  bears,  as  it  is  well  known,  the  name  of 
Charern1.  One  feels  a  natural  inclination  to  see 
the  inside  of  places  secluded  from  observation 
by  the  Moslems  with  such  rigid  caution.  There 
is  nothing,  however,  to  gratify  the  curiosity 
which  is  excited  by  so  much  mystery.  The 
Charem  of  the  Khan  has  been  preserved  in  its 
original  state,  without  the  slightest  alteration. 
Potemkin  passed  his  nights  there,  during  the 
visit  of  the  Empress,  and  was  much  amused  with 

the  idea  of  sleeping  in  a  Charem.     It  consists  Descrip- 
tion of  the 

of  a  set  of  very  indifferent  apartments,  of  a  square 
form,  opening  one  into  another,  having  neither 
magnificence  nor  convenience.  These  apart- 
ments are  detached  from  the  palace,  and  they 
are  surrounded  by  a  garden  with  high  walls. 
Owing  to  the  lattices  which  cover  the  windows, 
and  to  the  trees  planted  before  them,  the 
wretched  prisoners  once  doomed  to  reside 
within  them  could  hardly  have  obtained  a  view 
even  of  the  sky,  the  only  object  granted  to  their 
contemplation.  Destitute  of  literary  resource, 
the  women  there  immured  passed  their  time,  as 
ladies  informed  me  who  were  in  the  habit  of 
visiting  them,  in  embroidery,  and  in  drinking 
very  bad  coffee,  sometimes  with  sorbet,  and  a 
poor  sort  of  lemonade.  In  the  Turkish  charems 

(l)  Pronounced  Harem,  with  a  guttural  aspirate,  as  in  the  Greek  X, 


184  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,  the  women  are  allowed  the  greater  luxury  of 
smoking:  this,  to  human  beings  so  situated, 
must  become  an  important  comfort  of  life.  The 
most  remarkable  part  of  the  seraglio  is  the 
entrance,  by  a  winding  passage,  so  narrow,  that 
one  person  alone  could  pass  at  the  same  time, 
who  was  under  the  absolute  necessity  of 
stepping  close  to  the  guard,  so  as  to  rouse  him, 
even  if  he  were  asleep.  Into  this  passage  the 
Khan  descended  by  a  private  staircase,  which 
was  appropriated  solely  to  his  use. 

The  Armenian  merchants  ofNakhtshivan1,  who, 
with  almost  all  the  Christians  of  the  Peninsula, 
emigrated  from  the  Crimea,  were  originally  in- 
habitants of  Baktcheserai*:  their  loss  has  been 
severely  felt  ever  since  the  conquest  of  this 
country  by  the  Russians.  The  present  popula- 
tion, including  male  and  female,  amounts  to  near 
six  thousand  souls3.  In  this  number  are  in- 
cluded above  eleven  hundred  Jews :  four  hundred 
and  twenty  of  these  are  registered  as  merchants. 


(1)  See  p.  397  of  the  former  Volume, 

(2)  The  number  of  emigrants  amounted  to   75,000  ;  all  of  whom, 
excepting  7000,  perished  from  cold,  hunger,   and  other  causes,  in  the 
steppes,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  Sea  of  Azof. 

(3)  Fire  thousand   seven    hundred   and   seventy-six,    according  to 
Pallas,  (Travels,  vol.  II. p.  £9,)  including  Greeks,  Armenians,  Jews,  and 
Tahtars. 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  185 

The  number  of  Tahtars  does  not  exceed  three 
thousand :  of  this  number,  twenty  belong  to  the 
class  of  nobles,  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
are  merchants,  one  hundred  and  seventy-three 
priests,  and  seventy-eight  students  of  divinity. 

The    morning    after    our    arrival,    Colonel  visit  to  the 

Fortress  of 

Richard  Dunant,   a  native  of  Smyrna,    and  an  z>sckou- 

~  .  .  ., .  foutkale. 

officer  m  the  Russian  service  residing  in 
Eahtcheserai,  accompanied  us  on  horseback  to 
climb  the  steep  defile  leading  from  the  city  to 
the  Jewish  colony  of  DscHoufoutkaU* t  situate 
upon  a  mountain,  and  distant  about  five  versts. 
These  Jews  are  of  the  sect  called  Karat :  they 
inhabit  an  antient  fortress  originally  constructed 
by  the  Genoese  upon  a  very  lofty  precipice. 
Passing  up  the  defile  leading  to  this  fortress, 
we  observed  some  Tahtar  women  among  the 
tombs  and  ruined  mosques,  in  long  snow-white 
veils,  seeming  like  so  many  ghosts :  their  veils 
covered  all  the  face,  except  the  eyes;  and  some 
of  them  had  the  whole  of  the  head  and  upper 
part  of  the  body  concealed  from  observation. 
Their  beautiful  flowing  drapery,  and  the  inter- 
esting groupes  they  exhibited  among  the  ruins, 
would  have  furnished  a  pleasing  subject  for  a 


(4)  Dschoufout  is  a  name,  originally,  of  reproach,  bestowed  upon  the 
Jtws;  antl  Katt  signifies  a  fortress. 


186  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,     painter's  pencil.     As  if  their  veils  were  insuf- 
ficient to  protect  them  from  observation,  they 
no  sooner  behold  a  man,  than  they  hang  their 
heads,  and  endeavour  to  escape  notice  by  flight. 
JJ^f  _  An  English  servant,  brought  by  Admiral  Mord- 
Set"      vinof  into  the   Crimea,  observing  this  practice 

f          •  fc/  .  d  JL 

among  the  Tahtar  females,  deemed  it  to  be  an  act 
of  rudeness  on  his  part  to  give  them  the  trouble 
of  hiding  their  faces  and  of  running  away  upon 
his  account;   therefore,  whenever  he  encoun- 
tered them,  he  covered  his  face  and  took  to  his 
heels,  in  order  to  hide  himself  in  the  first  place 
he  could  find.    This  passed  unnoticed  for  some 
time :  at  length,  the  Tahtar  women,  struck  by 
the  singularity  of  seeing  a  man  always  avoiding 
them  and  endeavouring  to  conceal  himself  from, 
their  observation,  let  fall  a  portion  of  their  veils 
when  they  next  met  him;  this  only  caused  him  to 
run  faster  than  before.     Such  conduct  excited 
their  curiosity  more  than  ever,  and  at  last  they 
fairly  hunted  him :  after  following  him  in  parties 
to  his  hiding-place  with  their  veils  off,  they 
resolved  to  see  a  man  who  for  the  first  time 
concealed  his  face  at  the  approach  of  a  woman ; 
and,  having  caught  him,  they  actually  demanded 
an  explanation  of  his  unaccountable  behaviour. 

Advancing    along    the    defile,    and    always 
ascending,   we   passed  above  the  remains  of 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.   '  187 

that  quarter  of  the  city,  before  mentioned, 
which  belonged  to  the  Greeks.  It  is  now  a  heap 
of  ruins,  with  scarcely  a  stone  in  its  original 
situation.  As  we  proceeded,  they  shewed  to 
us,  in  the  very  highest  part  of  the  rocks,  an 

J 


.nary  Ring 

iron  ring,  pretending  that  the  cables  of  ships 
were  formerly  fastened  to  it,  although  many 
hundred  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the 
Black  Sea.  The  tradition,  however,  is,  or  ought 
to  be,  set  aside,  by  a  much  more  rational 
account  given  of  the  same  ring  ;  namely,  that  a 
rope  was  here  fastened  upon  festival  days;  and 
this  being  carried  across  the  defile  to  a  similar 
ring  upon  the  opposite  side,  the  Khans  amused 
themselves  by  seeing  a  man  pass  over  the  valley 
upon  the  rope,  from  one  precipice  to  the  other  : 
as  formerly  at  Fenice,  during  the  Carnival,  a  hired 
rope-dancer  was  drawn  to  the  top  of  the  tower 
of  St.  Mark,  whence  he  descended  by  another 
rope,  with  a  bouquet  of  flowers  in  his  hand,  to 
present  to  the  Doge.  This  account  is  admitted 
by  the  best-informed  concerning  the  marvellous 
ring  near  Baktcheserai  ;  but  Baron  de  Tott  very 
credulously  received  the  original  tradition,  with 
all  its  absurdity.  The  only  objection  belonging 
to  the  more  rational  story  is  suggested  by  the 
difficulty  of  conceiving  how  any  rope,  so  ex- 
tended, could  support  a  man's  weight  without 
breaking. 


188  BAKTCHESERAI, 

Farther  up  the  defile,  a  very  remarkable 
result  of  human  labour  is  exhibited,  in  a  Greek 
monastery,  or  chapel,  which  has  been  hewn  in 
the  very  side  of  the  precipice ;  and  in  such  a 
manner,  that  nothing  of  it  is  visible  but  the 
small  perforated  cavities  whereby  light  was 
communicated  to  the  interior.  The  Greeks  of 
the  Crimea  were  forbidden  by  the  Tahtars  the 
use  of  any  public  church ;  nor  were  they  allowed 
to  exercise  publickly  the  functions  of  their  reli- 
gion: in  consequence  of  this,  like  the  persecuted 
Brians,  they  fled  to  rocks  and  precipices,  secretly 
excavating  almost  inaccessible  caverns,  and 
ascending  to  their  subterraneous  shrines  by 
small  winding  staircases  concealed  from  obser- 
vation. This  example  of  their  labour  and  their 
piety  remains  among  the  few  things  the  Russians 
have  not  found  it  easy  to  destroy :  it  is  one  of 
the  most  singular  curiosities  in  the  Crimea;  and 
it  seems  to  be  suspended,  like  a  marten's  nest, 
upon  the  face  of  a  lofty  precipice,  beneath  stu- 
pendous rocks. 

Jewish  We  now  came  to  the  lower  verge  of  some 

te°'  steep  cliffs,  and  beheld  upon  the  summit  the 
walls  of  DSCHOUFOUTKALE.  In  a  recess  upon 
our  right  hand  appeared  the  ccemetery,  or 
"Jield  of  dead"  belonging  to  the  Karaite  Jetvs. 
Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  calculated  to 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  189 

inspire  holy  meditation.  It  is  a  beautiful  grove, 
filling  a  chasm  of  the  mountains,  which  is  ren- 
dered gloomy  by  the  shade  of  lofty  trees  and 
overhanging  rocks.  A  winding  path  conducts 
through  this  solemn  scene.  Several  tombs  of 
white  marble  present  a  fine  contrast  to  the  deep 
green  of  the  foliage;  and  female  figures,  in 
white  veils,  are  constantly  seen  offering  their 
pious  lamentations  over  the  graves.  An  evening 
or  a  morning  visit  to  the  sepulchres  of  their 
departed  friends  constitutes,  perhaps,  all  the 
exercise  of  the  Jewish  women,  as  they  seldom 
leave  their  houses :  in  this  respect,  their  cus- 
toms are  similar  to  those  of  Tahtars  and  Turks l. 
If  the  belief  which  these  nations  entertain,  that 
the  souls  of  the  dead  hover  about  their  earthly 
tabernacles,  and  hold  communion  with  the 
living,  were  admitted  by  the  followers  of  Christ, 
it  would  be  difficult  to  direct  the  human  mind 
to  any  duty  more  consolatory,  or  more  sub- 
limely affecting.  It  is  not  possible  to  behold 
either  Moslems  or  Jews  so  circumstanced,  without 
feeling  something  very  like  a  wish  to  share 
with  them,  at  least,  this  article  of  their  faith. 


(1)  "  This  little  valley  of  Jehosaphat  is  so  highly  valued  by  the  Jews, 
that,  whenever  the  anient  Khans  wished  to  extort  from  them  a  present, 
or  to  raise  a  voluntary  contribution,  it  was  sufficient  to  threaten  them 
with  the  extirpation  of  those  sacred  trees,  under  the  plausible  pretence 
of  wanting  fuel  or  timber."  Pallas'*  Travels,  vol.  II.  p,  35. 


BAKTCHESERAt,   ' 

The  ascent  from  the  coemetery  to  the  fortress, 
although  short,  is  so  steep,  that  we  were  forced 
to  alight  from  our  horses,  and  actually  to  climb 
to  the  gateway.  Several  slaves,  however, 
busied  in  conveying  water  upon  the  backs  of 
asses,  passed  us  in  their  way  up.  The  spring 
which  supplies  them  is  below,  in  the  defile ;  and 
a  very  copious  reservoir,  cut  in  the  rocks  above, 
is  prepared  for  the  use  of  the  colony.  As  we 
passed  the  gateway,  and  entered  the  town,  we 
were  met  by  several  of  the  inhabitants.  Colonel 
Dunant  inquired  for  a  Jew  of  his  acquaintance, 
one  of  the  principal  people  in  the  place.  We 
were  conducted  to  his  house ;  and  found  him, 
at  noon,  sleeping  on  his  divan.  He  rose  to 
receive  us,  and  presently  regaled  us  with 
various  sorts  of  confectionary:  among  these 
were  conserved  leaves  of  roses,  and  preserved 
walnuts :  we  had  also  eggs,  cheese,  cold  pies, 
and  brandy.  A  messenger  was  despatched  for 
the  Rabbi,  whom  he  invited  to  meet  us,  and  who 
soon  after  made  his  appearance.  This  venerable 
man  was  held  in  very  high  consideration  by 
them  all,  and  with  good  reason ;  for  he  was 
exceedingly  well-informed,  and  had  passed  a 
public  examination,  with  distinguished  honour, 
in  Petersburg,  after  being  sent  for  expressly  by 
the  Empress  CATHERINE.  We  were  highly  in- 
terested in  their  conversation,  as  well  as  in  the 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.'  191 

singular  circumstance  of  having  found  one 
Jewish  settlement,  perhaps  the  only  one  upon 
earth,  where  that  people  exist  secluded  from 
the  rest  of  mankind,  in  the  free  exercise  of 
their  antient  customs  and  peculiarities1.  The 
town  contains  about  twelve  hundred  persons  of 
both  sexes,  and  not  more  than  two  hundred 
houses.  The  Tahtars  left  here  a  stately  mauso- 
leum, erected  for  the  daughter  of  one  of  their 
Khans,  now  a  ruin.  The  principal  part  of  each 
dwelling  belongs  to  the  women;  but  every 
master  of  a  family  has  his  own  private  apart- 
ment, where  he  sleeps,  smokes,  and  receives 
his  friends.  The  room  wherein  we  were  enter- 
tained was  of  this  description:  it  was  filled 
with  manuscripts,  many  in  the  hand-writing  of 
our  host ;  others  by  those  of  his  children ;  and 
all  in  very  beautiful  Hebrew  characters.  The 
Karaites  deem  it  to  be  an  act  of  piety  to  copy 
the  Bible,  or  copious  commentaries  upon  its 
text,  once  in  their  lives.  All  their  manuscript 
copies  of  the  Old  Testament  begin  with  the 
Book  of  Joshua ;  even  the  most  antient  did  not 
contain  the  Pentateuch.  This  is  kept  apart, 


(I)  "It  seems  singular  that  such  fortresses  should  have  been  pos- 
sessed by  such  a  people  j  yet,  in  Abyssinia,  the  Falasha  appear  similarly 
situated;  and  Jackson  mentions  a  Jews'  rock  in  Morocco." 

Hebcr's  MS,  Journal. 


192  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,  not  in  manuscript,  but  in  a  printed  version,  for 
the  use  of  the  schools1.  In  their  synagogues, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Books  of  Moses,  every 
thing  was  in  manuscript.  The  Rabbi  asked 
if  we  had  any  of  their  sect,  KARAI,  in  England; 
a  question  we  could  not  answer.  He  said  there 
were  few  in  Holland.  The  etymology  of  their 
name  is  uncertain.  The  difference  between  their 
creed  and  that  of  Jeivs  in  general,  according  to 
the  information  we  received  from  the  Rabbi, 
consists  in  a  rejection  of  the  Talmud;  a  disregard 
to  every  kind  of  tradition ;  to  all  Rabbinical 
writings  or  opinions;  to  all  marginal  interpo- 
lations of  the  text  of  Scripture;  and,  in  a 
measure  of  their  rule  of  faith  by  the  pure  letter 
of  the  Law.  They  pretend  to  have  the  text  of 
the  Old  Testament  in  its  most  genuine  state. 

Being  desirous  to  possess  one  of  their  Bibles, 
the  Rabbi,  who  seemed  gratified  by  the  circum- 
stance, permitted  us  to  purchase  a  beautiful 
manuscript  copy,  written  upon  vellum,  about 
four  hundred  years  old;  but  having  left  this 
volume  in  the  Crimea,  to  be  forwarded  by  way 
of  Petersburg,  it  was  never  afterwards  recovered. 


(1)  The  reason  given  by  the  Ralli  for  the  omission  of  the  Books  of 
Moses  in  their  manuscript  copies,  was,  that  the  Pentateuch,  being  in 
constant  use  for  the  instruction  of  their  children,  was  reserved  apart, 
that  the  whole  volume  might  not  be  liable  to  the  injuries  it  would 
thereby  sustain. 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  193 

It  began,  like  all  the  others,  with  the  Book  of    c™*p- 

Joshua,  '-'    v-1    ' 

The  character  of  the  Karaite  Jews  is  directly  Account  of 

J    the  Sect  of 

opposite  to  that  generally  attributed  to  their 
brethren  in  other  countries,  being  altogether 
without  reproach.    Their  honesty  is  proverbial 
in  the  Crimea;  and  the  word  of  a  Karaite  is 
considered  equal  to  a  bond.    Almost  all  of  them 
are  engaged  in  trade  or  manufacture.     They 
observe  their  fasts  with  the  most  scrupulous 
rigour,    abstaining  even  from  snuff  and  from 
smoking  for  twenty-four  hours  together.     In 
the  very  earliest  periods  of  Jeivish  history,  this 
sect  separated  from  the  main  stem :  such,  at 
least,    is    their    own    account ;    and    nothing 
concerning   them   ought  to   be  received  from 
Rdbbmisis,  who  hold  them  in  detestation.     For 
this  reason,  the  relations  of  Leo  of  Modena,  a 
Rabbi  of  Fenice,  are  not  to  be  admitted.     Their 
schism  is  said  to  be  as  old  as  the  return  from 
the  Babylonish  Captivity.    They  observe  ex- 
traordinary   care    in    the    education    of   their 
children,  who  are  publickly  instructed  in   the 
synagogues;    and  in  this  respect  the  Tahtars 
are  not  deficient.   We  rarely  entered  any  Tahtar 
village  in  the  day-time  without  seeing  children 
assembled  in  some  public  place,  receiving  their 
instruction  from  persons  appointed  to  super- 


194  BAKTCHESERAI, 

CHAP,    intend  the  care  of  their  education ;  reciting  with 

IV. 

audible  voices  passages  from  the  Koran,  or 
busied  in  copying  manuscript  lessons  placed 
before  them.  The  dress  of  the  Karaites  differs 
little  from  that  worn  by  the  Tahtars.  All  of 
them,  of  whatsoever  age,  suffer  their  beards  to 
grow;  but  among  Tahtars  the  beard  is  a  dis- 
tinction of  age,  the  young  men  wearing  only 
whiskers.  The  Karaites  wear  also  a  lofty  thick 
felt  cap,  faced  with  wool :  this  is  heavy,  and 
keeps  the  head  very  hot.  The  Turks  and 
Armenians  often  do  the  same;  and  in  warm 
climates  this  precaution  seems  a  preservative 
against  the  dangerous  consequences  resulting 
from  obstructed  perspiration. 

We  were  surprised  to  see  vine-leaves  sold  in 
the  streets,  particularly  as  they  are  abundant 
in  the  country ;  but  this  article  is  in  very  great 
demand,  for  cookery.  Their  minced  meat  is 
rolled  up  in  vine-leaves,  and  sent  to  table  in 
the  form  of  sausages. 

From  this  interesting  colony  we  returned,  by 
a  different  road,  along  the  tops  of  the  mountains, 
to  Balitcheserai*.  Concerning  this  place,  it  is 

(l)  "  Batchiserai  is  entirely  inhabited  by  Tahtars,  Jews,  and 
Armenians,  and  is  the  most  populous  place  we  saw  in  the  Crimea. 
It  has  several  mosques,  besides  a  very  fine  one  in  the  seraglio,  with 

two 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  105 

hoped  nothing  has  been  omitted  which  might    CHAP. 
be  deemed  worthy  of  the  reader's  attention. 


two  minarets,  the  mark  of  royalty.  There  are  some  decent  sutlers' 
shops,  and  some  manufactories  of  felt  carpets,  and  one  of  red  and 
yellow  leather.  The  houses  are  almost  universally  of  wood  and  ill- 
baked  hricks,  with  wooden  piazzas,  and  shelving  roofs  of  red  tile. 
There  is  a  new  church,  dedicated  to  St.  George  ;  but  the  most  striking 
feature  is  the  palace,  which  though  neither  large  nor  regular,  yet,  by 
the  picturesque  style  of  its  architecture,  its  carving  and  gilding,  its 
Arabic  and  Turkish  inscriptions,  and  the  fountains  of  beautiful  water 
in  every  court,  interested  me  more  than  I  can  express.  The  apart- 
ments, except  the  Hall  of  Justice,  are  low  and  irregular.  In  one  are 
a  number  of  bad  paintings,  representing  different  views  of  Constan- 
tinople ;  and,  to  my  surprise,  birds  were  pictured,  flying,  in  violation 
of  the  Mohammedan  prohibition  to  paint  any  animal.  It  is  kept  in 
tolerable  repair ;  and  the  divans  in  the  best  rooms  are  still  furnished 
with  cushions.  One  apartment,  which  was  occupied  by  the  Empress 
CATHERINE,  is  fitted  up  in  a  paltry  ball-room  manner,  with  chande- 
liers, &c.  and  forms  an  exception  to  the  general  style.  The  Haram  is 
a  mean  building,  separated  from  the  other  apartments  by  a  small 
walled  garden,  and  containing  a  kitchen,  with  six  or  eight  small  and 
mean  bed-rooms,  each  of  which  (as  we  were  told  by  our  guide,  who 
was  a  Jew,  and  remembered  it  in  the  time  of  the  Khans)  was  usually 
occupied  by  two  ladies.  In  the  garden  is  a  large  and  delightful  kiosk, 
surrounded  by  lattice -work,  with  a  divan  round  the  inside,  the  centre 
paved  with  marble,  and  furnished  with  a  fountain.  The  word  Serai, 
or  Seraglio,  which  is  given  to  this  range  of  buildings,  seems,  in  the 
Tahtar  and  Turkish  language,  to  answer  to  all  the  significations  of 
our  English  word  Court;  being  applied  indifferently  to  the  yard  of  an 
inn  or  the  inclosure  of  a  palace."  fleber's  MS.  Journal. 


VOL.   II. 


1.  Gi-yllus  7«A«nriM 

2.  (iryllus  miffratoTV 

3.  Scorpio  Europrru*. 


5.  Scofopenefra  morxifa 


CHAP.  V. 


FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA,  TO  THE 
HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS. 

Tarantula  Spider Departure  from   Baktcheserai  — 

CTENUS  of  Stralo  —  AKTIAR  —  Caverns  of  Inkerman 
— Mephitic  Air — Cippus  ofTheagenes — Antient  Geo- 
graphy, and  Antiquities  of  the  Minor  Peninsula  — 

EUPATORIUM CHERSON'ESUS Parthenium  of 

Formaleoni  —  Monastery  of  St.  George  —  Balaclava 
—  Genoese  Fortress  —  Geology  of  the  Crimea  — 


CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  197 

Extraordinary  Geological  Phenomena  —  Form  of  an 
Antient  Greek  Town  —  Manners  of  the  People. 

U  PON  our  arrival  at  the  house  where  we  had 
lodged,  we  found  the  servant  endeavouring  to 
secure  a  very  large  tarantula,  which  he  had  caught 
in  one  of  the  out-houses.  Some  advantage 
may  be  derived  from  our  entomological  re- 
searches, imperfect  as  they  are,  if  they  only 
cause  future  travellers  to  avoid  the  dangerous 
consequences  of  an  attack  from  such  animals. 
A  slight  attention  to  the  representation 
in  the  opposite  page  will  enable  any  one 
to  recognise  three  of  the  four  venomous  in- 
sects of  the  Crimea  with  tolerable  precision, 
as  the  drawing  was  made  .from  the  ori- 
ginal specimens.  The  fourth,  the  Phalangium 
Araneoides,  was  destroyed  in  its  passage  to 
this  country :  this  may  be  regretted,  because 
its  bite  is  the  most  pernicious,  and  no  very  accu- 
rate representation  of  the  insect  has  hitherto 
appeared.  Observations  more  at  large  were 
given  in  a  preceding  Chapter ' :  nor  would  the 
subject  have  been  again  introduced,  but  with 
a  view  to  contradict  notions  propagated  con- 
cerning the  harmless  nature  of  these  animals. 
Both  from  our  own  experience,  and  the  very 

(1)  See  pp.  133—137,  of  this  Volume. 
O  1 


198  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP,    extensive  knowledge   of  Professor  Pallas,  we 

v.  « 

<•    „•   J  are   authorised    in    affirming,     that,    in    warm 

countries,  the  wounds  they  occasion  some- 
times prove  fatal.  The  amputation  of  the  part 
affected  was  the  only  method  of  saving  our 
soldiers  in  Egypt,  who  had  been  bitten  by  the 
scorpion  ;  and  Pallas  informed  us,  that  he  had  wit- 
nessed the  most  dangerous  consequences  from 
the  attacks  of  the  Scokpendra,  the  Phalangium> 
and  the  Tarantula. 

Departure  The  evening  after  we  descended  from  the 
fortress  belonging  to  the  Jewish  colony,  we  left 
Bahtcheserai,  and  reached  the  great  bay  of 
AKTIAR:  upon  this  place  the  Russians,  in  the 
time  of  CATHERINE  THE  SECOND,  bestowed  the 
fanciful  name  of  Sebastopole.  We  had  to  make 
a  passage  of  about  two  versts,  across  the  water, 
to  the  town.  Prince  Fiazemskoy,  the  Governor, 
had  stationed  a  sentinel  with  a  boat,  who  told 
us  he  had  waited  four  days  in  expectation  of 
our  coming.  According  to  the  orders  he  had 
received,  a  gun  was  fired,  to  give  notice  to 
the  garrison  of  our  arrival.  The  great  bay 
of  Ahtiar  also  bears  the  name  of  The  Roads  ;  and 
here  the  Russian  fleet  is  frequently  at  anchor. 
It  is  the  CTENUS  of  Strabo*.  The  harbour, 


Sirabo. 


(1)  Slrab.  Geogr.  lib.  vii. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  199 

where  the  town  of  Aktiar  was  built  about 
twenty  years  ago,  has  been  appropriated  to 
the  reception  of  Russian  ships  of  war2.  The 
Crimea  does  not  afford  timber  for  building 
ships,  although  there  is  always  a  sufficient 
supply  for  repairs.  The  fleets  of  the  world 
might  ride  secure,  and  have  convenient  ancho- 
rage, in  the  great  bay ;  and  in  any  of  the  ports, 
vessels  find  from  twenty-one  to  seventy  feet 
depth  of  water,  and  good  anchorage.  To  the 
Russian  navy  it  is  one  of  their  most  important 
possessions ;  yet  such  was  the  surprising  igno- 
rance or  the  negligence  of  their  Government, 
that,  for  some  time  after  the  capture  of  the 
Crimea,  the  advantages  of  this  place  were  not 
discovered.  The  plan  of  the  harbour  somewhat 
resembles  that  of  Malta. 

AKTIAR  contains  two  churches :  one  of  them 
is  a  handsome  building.  The  principal  street 
is  broad,  and  the  stairs  of  the  quay  are  spacious 
and  magnificent.  For  the  rest,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  its  magazines  and  barracks,  it  can 
only  boast  of  a  few  shops3.  Other  objects 


(2)  There   are  other   ports,    such    as   the   '*  Careening  Bay,'  the 
M  Bay  of  Quarantine  "  &c. 

(3)  "  Aktiar,  so  called  from  its  white  rocks.     The  old  town  stood,  as 
we  were  told,  on  the  north  of  the  harbour,  where  there  are  no  remains 

of 


200  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

demand  the  attention  of  the  traveller,  and  call 
for  all  his  activity.  Landing  at  Aktiar,  he 
arrives  in  the  very  centre  of  some  of  the  most 
interesting  antiquities  of  the  Crimea.  The 
country  included  within  the  isthmus  formed  by 
the  principal  harbour  of  Aktiar,  or  Inkerman, 
that  is  to  say,  by  the  Ctenus  of  Strabo,  and  the 
port  of  Balaclava  or  Portus  Symbolorum,  is  the 
HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS,  so  accurately  de- 
scribed by  that  author  as  a  portion  of  the 


of  any  consequence.  No  vessels  are  built  here  ;  as  the  timber  must  all 
be  floated  down  the  Bog  or  Dnieper.  A  regulation  had  been  made, 
prohibiting  merchant-vessels  the  entrance  into  the  harbour,  unless 
in  positive  distress ;  a  strange  way  of  proceeding,  when  compared 
with  the  general  policy  of  European  Governments.  Thereason  assigned 
was,  the  embezzlement  of  the  pullic  stores,  which  were  sold  to  the  mer- 
chants ly  the  Government  officers,  almost  without  shame.  The  effect 
has  been,  to  check  entirely  the  prosperity  of  the  town,  and  to  raise 
every  foreign  commodity  to  a  most  extravagant  price.  Even  provisions 
cannot  be  brought  by  sea  without  a  special  licence.  This  information 
I  derived  from  the  Port-Admiral,  Bandakof,  and  from  an  English 
officer  in  the  Russian  service.  The  natural  advantages  of  the  harbour 
are  truly  surprising  ;  and  the  largest  vessels  lie  within  a  cable's  length 
of  the  shore-  The  harbour  is  divided  into  three  coves,  affording 
shelter  in  every  wind,  and  favourable  situations  for  repairs,  building, 
&c.  On  a  tongue  of  high  land,  between  the  two  southern  creeks, 
stands  the  Admiralty  and  store-houses,  and  on  the  opposite  fide  is  the 
town.  The  principal  arm  of  the  harbour  runs  east,  and  is  terminated 
by  the  valley  and  little  river  of  Inkerman.  There  are  some  formidable 
batteries,  and  the  mouth  of  the  harbour  is  very  easy  of  defence.  The 
old  and  unserviceable  cannon  are  broken  into  small  pieces,  by  being 
raised  to  a  great  height,  and  suffered  to  fall  on  a  bed  of  masonry ;  and 
then  sent,  as  we  are  told,  to  Lugan,  to  be  new  cast.  To  build  a  ship 
in  the  Black  Sea  costs  half  as  much  again  as  to  construct  it  at  Cronstadt, 
the  wood  coming  from  so  great  a  distance."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  201 

Peninsula  Major,  or  T  AURIC  A  CHERSONESUS.  C.HA*. 
Within  this  small  district  stood  the  cities  of  the 
old  and  new  Chersonesus ;  Eupatorium:  the  Temples 
of  Diana,  and  the  Promontory  Parthenium,  cele- 
brated in  the  story  of  Iphigema;  the  famous 
Chersonesan  Mole;  with  numerous  ramparts, 
tombs,  canals,  and  other  works,  the  memory  of 
which  historians  have  preserved,  but  the  last 
traces  of  whose  magnificence  the  Russians  daily 
labour  to  annihilate. 


Prince  Fiazemskoy  had  prepared  apartments 
for  us  in  a  palace  belonging  to  the  Crown, 
similar  to  the  edifice  already  noticed  at  Stara 
Crim;  but  there  was  at  this  time  resident  in 
Aktiar  a  countryman  of  ours,  in  the  Russian 
service,  an  illiterate  man,  whose  vanity  we 
found  would  be  piqued  if  we  did  not  take  up 
our  abode  with  him.  He  was  originally  em- 
ployed as  a  servant  to  the  astronomer  who 
accompanied  Cooke  in  his  second  voyage;  and, 
owing  to  the  powerful  interest  made  in  his 
behalf,  by  Professor  Pallas,  and  by  other  persons 
of  high  respectability,  he  had  obtained  the 
command  of  an  expedition  to  the  north-west 
coast  of  America,  of  which  Sailer  has  since 
published  a  narrative.  He  had  the  rank  of 
Commodore;  and  his  claim  as  a  countryman, 
added  to  his  other  pretensions,  induced  us  to 


202  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP,  accept  his  offers  of  accommodation.  We  had 
«•  r-T—  ^  reason  afterwards  to  regret  our  imprudence ; 
for,  in  addition  to  the  privations  we  endured 
beneath  his  roof,  we  found  ourselves  thwarted 
in  every  undertaking,  by  his  interference,  and 
very  often  by  his  actual  misrepresentations  to 
the  Governor  and  police-officers.  He  would  not 
allow  the  Prince  to  grant  us  permission  for  the 
removal  of  any  article  of  antiquity  we  had 
purchased,  although  they  were  all  condemned 
to  serve  as  building  materials ;  and  we  had 
soon  reason  to  apprehend,  that  we  were  accom- 
panied, wheresoever  we  went,  by  as  dangerous 
a  spy  as  the  jealous  police  of  that  country 
could  possibly  place  over  us.  The  room  he 
allotted  to  our  use  was  a  kind  of  antechamber, 
destitute  even  of  the  meanest  article  of  furniture ; 
and  here  we  slept  upon  the  bare  floor:  nor 
should  we  have  noticed  the  rigour  of  our  fare, 
if  it  had  not  borne  the  respectable  name  of 
English  hospitality. 

Caverns  of      The  Prince  prepared  his  shallop  for  us  on  the 

Inkerman.  ,     -,  .  ,    , 

next  day,  with  twelve  oars,  to  visit  the  rums  and 
caverns  of  Inkerman1,  at  the  extremity  of  the 
principal  harbour.  The  Commodore  and  the 
metropolitan  Bishop  accompanied  us.  Before 

(l)  In-Kerman,  according  to  Pallas,  ineaus  '  The  Town  of  Caverns.' 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  203 

we   reached  Inkerman,  some  very  remarkable 
excavations  appeared  in  the  rocks  by  the  side 
of  the  bay,  visible  at  a  considerable  distance. 
Upon  examination,  they  proved  to  be  chambers., 
with   arched  windows,  cut  in  the  solid  stone 
with  marvellous  art  and  labour.     The  Bishop 
described  them  as  the  retreats  of  Christians  in 
the  earliest  ages  of  the  Church.     But  to  give  an 
idea  of  what  we  saw  at  Inkerman  would  baffle 
every  power   of  description.      The   rocks  all 
around  the  extremity  of  the  harbour  are  hewn 
into    chapels,-   monasteries,   cells,    sepulchres, 
and  a  variety  of  works  which,   by  their  multi- 
plicity and  intricacy,  astonish  and  confound  the 
beholder.     A  river  flows  here  into  the  bay,  after 
leaving  perhaps   the  most  beautiful  valley  in 
Europe.      At  the  mouth  of  this  river  the  most 
remarkable  antiquities  are   situate,  the  excava- 
tions appearing  on  both  sides.     The  first  caverns 
visible  to  persons  approaching  from  Aktiar  are 
upon   the   south  side:    these  have  been    con- 
verted into  magazines  for  gunpowder.     It  was 
with  great  difficulty  we  could  prevail  upon  the 
sentinels  to  suffer  us-  to  enter  the  caves  where 
the  ammunition  is  kept.     They  seem  to  have 
constituted  an  entire  subterraneous  monastery: 
the  rock  has  been  so  wonderfully  perforated, 
that  it  now  exhibits   a   church,   with   several 
chambers,   and  long  passages   leading    off  in 


204  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP,    various  directions.     From  these  caverns,  a  fine 
v. 

prospect    of  the   Valley  of  Inkerman    appears 

through  the  wide  open  arches,  together  with 
heaps  of  ruins  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  The  principal  cave  seems  to  have  been 
the  church.  We  found  several  stone  coffins 
cut  in  the  rock:  these  had  all  been  opened. 
We  noticed  some  Greek  inscriptions  above  them, 
but  the  characters  were  too  faint  and  too  im- 
perfectly engraven  to  be  legible.  The  difficulty 
of  copying  or  deciphering  them  was  increased 
by  the  obscurity  of  the  caverns.  It  was  now 
evening;  and  night  coming  on,  the  full  moon 
rose  in  great  splendour  over  the  long  Valley  of 
Inkerman,  illuminating  a  landscape,  which,  as 
it  was  seen  through  the  arches  of  these  gloomy 
chambers,  is  not  to  be  described.  Upon  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  excavations  were 
still  more  frequent,  and  somewhat  farther  from 
the  bay.  Crossing  an  antient  bridge,  whose 
fair-proportioned  arch,  and  massive  super- 
structure, indicated  the  masonry  of  some  remote 
age,  we  found  the  caverns  to  be  so  numerous, 
that  they  occupied  one  entire  side  of  a  con- 
siderable mountain  :  upon  its  summit  were  the 
towers  and  battlements  of  a  very  large  fortress, 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the  Genoese,  but 
perhaps  originally  part  of  the  fortifications 
erected  by  Diophantus,  one  of  the  generals  of 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  205 

Mithradates.     From  the  appearance  of  staircases    CRAP. 
leading  also  to  the  very  caverns  before  men- 
tioned,  it  is  evident  that  a  fortress  must  have 
stood  there   ever  since  the  excavations  were 
first  made,   whatsoever    be   the  date  of  their 
origin.      Several   chapels,    together    with   the 
remains   of  stone   sepulchres,  apparently  con- 
structed for  the  bodies  of  distinguished  persons, 
are   among   these    chambers,    which    are  now 
tenanted  by  the  Tahtars  and  their  goats.     The 
stone  coffins  serve  as  drinking-troughs  for  the 
cattle  :  the  altars,  once  smoking  with  incense, 
are  now  filthy  receptacles  for  dung  and  mud. 
Pallas,  who  had  paid  considerable  attention  to 
the  subject,   believed   that  all    these  remains, 
whether  of  buildings   or  excavated   chambers, 
originated  in  a  settlement  of  Brians;  who,  when 
Christianity  met  with  general  persecution,  fled 
to  these  rocks,  and  fortified  themselves  against 
the    barbarous    inhabitants    of   the    Peninsula. 
Similar  works  are  found  in  other  parts  of  the 
Crimea,  particularly  at  Schulu  and  Mankoup  ;  also 
in  Italy,  and  in  other  parts  of  Europe  :  and  they 
have  generally  been  attributed  to  the  labours 
of  those  early  Christians  who  fled  from  persecu- 
tion.     The   air    of    Inkerman  is  unwholesome 


Air. 

during  the  months  of  summer  and  autumn;  and 
this  may  be  said,  in  some  degree,  of  the  whole 
Peninsula.  Even  the  natives  are  afflicted  with 


206  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAR  frequent  fevers;  but  strangers  rarely  escape. 
The  tertian  fever  is  the  most  common.  In 
autumn  it  is  very  difficult  to  avoid  this  disorder, 
particularly  at  Akmetchet,  Alctiar,  Koslof,  Sudak, 
and  Karasubazar.  Baktcheserai  is  the  most 

Ej 

healthy  situation,  because  a  constant  current 
of  air  passes  through  the  defile  in  which  it  is 
situate;  and  the  water  is  excellent1. 

After  returning  from  our  excursion  to  Inker - 
man,  we  endeavoured  to  investigate  the  antient 
topography  of  the  Heracleotic  Peninsula.  This 
was  a  work  of  some  difficulty;  yet  the  materials 
were  ample.  The  ruins,  as  they  still  exist,  with 
the  assistance  of  Strabo,  and  an  accurate  survey 
of  the  country,  might  be  deemed  sufficient  for 
the  purpose  ;  but  the  insurmountable  difficulties 


(1)  In  consequence  either  of  the  visit  to  Inkerman,  or  the  air  of 
jAhtiar,  the  author  caught  a  violent  tertian  fever,  which  afflicted  him 
during  the  whole  of  his  journey  along  the  south  coast :  and  he  afterwards 
observed  at  Akmetcheti  that  it  was  not  possible  to  walk  in  the  town  without 
meeting  some  persons  labouring  under  a  similar  disorder.  The  pale 
Peruvian  bark  has  very  little  effect  in  removing  the  complaint;  but  the 
red  bark  soon  cures  it :  the  last  paroxysm  is  generally  followed  by  a 
scalding  eruption  upon  the  lips.  This  symptom,  as  an  index  of  returning 
health,  is  always  hailed  by  the  inhabitants,  who,  when  they  perceive  it, 
congratulate  the  invalid  upon  the  speedy  prospect  of  his  recovery.  But 
as  the  poor,  and  even  many  of  the  rich,  are  unable  to  procure  the  bark, 
these  fevers  often  generate  dropsical  habits,  and  become  fatal.  There  is 
not  a  single  apothecary  in  the  Crimea.  Medicine  is  therefore  almost 
unknown,  excepting  the  few  remedies  to  which  the  Tahtars  have  recourse  : 
and  these,  with  the  use  of  a  few  herbs,  consist  chiefly,  as  in  all  barbarous 
countries,  in  charms  and  superstitious  practices. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS. 

created    by    the    barbarism    of   the    Russians 

. 
were  very  intimidating.     When  they  settled  in 

the  country,  the  remains  of  the  city  of  Cherso- 
nesus  were  so  considerable,  that  all  its  gates  were 
standing.      These    they  soon  demolished;  and, 
proceeding  in  their  favourite  employment  of  lay- 
ing waste,  they  pulled  down,  broke,  buried,  and 
destroyed  every  monument  calculated  to  illus- 
trate its  former  history  ;  blowing  up  its  antient 
foundations;  tearing  open  tombs ;  overthrowing 
temples  ;  and  then,  after  removing  the  masses 
of  stone  and  marble  to  4ktiar,   exposing  them 
for  sale  by  cubic  measure,  to  serve  as  materials 
in  building.     If  the  Archipelago  should  ever  fall 
under  the  dominion  of  Russia,  the  fine  remains  of 
Antient  Greece  will  be  destroyed;  Athens  will  be 
rased,  and  not  a  stone  be  left  to  mark  where  the 
city  stood.     Turks  are  men  of  taste  and  pro- 
found science  in  comparison  with  the  Russians. 
Among   other  interesting  antiquities,  removed 
by  the  latter  from  the  city  of  Chersonesus,  there 
was  a  beautiful  bas-relief,  upon  a  Cippus  of  white 
marble,  exhibiting  sculpture  equal  in  perfection 
to  some  of  the  most-admired  productions  of 
antient  artists.     This   Cippus  had   closed    the 
entrance  to  the  tomb   of  a  philosopher  named 
THEAGENES.     Any  of  the  inhabitants  of  Akdar 
might  have  purchased  it,   together  with  a  ton 
weight  besides  of  other  stones,   for  a  single 


208  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE   CRIMEA, 

CHAP,  rouble.  To  us  the  sale  was  prohibited,  because 
we  were  strangers ;  and,  worse  than  all,  we  were 
Englishmen.  Commodore  Billings  particularly 
insisted,  that  the  consequences  would  be  serious 
to  the  inhabitants,  if  it  were  told  to  the  Emperor 
that  Englishmen  had  been  allowed  to  remove 
any  thing  of  this  description:  so  the  Cippus  of 
Theagenes  was  left  to  its  fate.  As  a  bas-relief, 
it  represented  the  philosopher  and  his  wife. 
The  drapery  of  these  figures  manifested  the 
degree  of  perfection  which  the  art  of  sculpture 
had  attained  in  the  Chersonesus,  and  thereby 
illustrated  and  confirmed  the  observations  of 
Pliny1.  The  philosopher  held  in  his  left  hand 
a  scroll,  in  form  and  size  resembling  the  manu- 
scripts found  in  Pompeii.  His  feet  were  bound 
in  sandals.  His  wife,  in  a  Grecian  habit,  wore  a 
long  robe,  which  seemed  to  fall  negligently  in 
folds  to  the  ground.  They  both  appeared  to  be 
in  the  prime  of  life  :  and  beneath  their  feet  was 
the  following  inscription : 

OEArENHZXPHZTinNOZ .  KAI 
HfYNHAYTOY  .  OYAH  IA  .  MA 
KAPIAETnNZEK'NBXAIPE 


fl)  Pracipui  nitoris,"    (says   the   historian,  speaking  of  Heraclea 

Chersonesus,    which    had  formerly  borne    the   name  of  MESARICZ,) 

t»  toto  fo  tructn,  cnstoditit  Gratia  morifnu."     Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  iv. 


TO-  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  209 

From  the  style  of  the  inscription,  the  late  Pro-  CHAP. 
fessor  Porson  believed  the  date  of  it  to  have 
been  at  least  two  hundred  years  prior  to  Chris- 
tianity. We  were  afterwards  conducted  to  the 
sepulchre,  from  whose  mouth  they  had  removed 
this  Cippus.  It  was  a  family  vault,  hewn  in 
the  rock  on  the  outside  of  the  walls  of  the 
antient  city  ofChersonesus*.  Within  were  recesses 
for  the  bodies  of  the  dead.  When  opened,  the 
soldiers  found  several  bones  in  a  state  of  pre- 
servation *;  and  these  they  presently  scattered 
among  the  ruins.  There  were  many  other 
sepulchres,  of  the  same  kind,  upon  the  side  of 
the  rock  where  the  Tomb  ofThcagenes  was  found, 
all  hewn  in  the  same  manner,  and  each  closed 
by  a  large  stone.  Thus,  evidently,  the  custom 
of  the  Chersonesus  was  to  bury,  and  not  to 
burn,  the  dead.  With  the  single  exception  of 
the  vase  found  at  Yenikale,  we  observed  no- 
where in  the  Crimea  either  ashes,  urns,  or  any 


(2)  A  line  from  the  Hecuba  of  Euripides,  (Edilio  Porsoni,}  with  the 
following  Note  of  the  Editor,  is  my  authority  for  writing  Chersonesvs 
instead  of  Cherronesus,  although  in  opposition  to  the  received  text  of 
almost  every  Greek  and  Latin  author : 

"  *O{  <rn>  apifffnv  'X.tpffoivff'mn  wXa*«."    v.  8. 

"  Aldus  et  Codices  Xifpemfia,*,  sed  alteram  formam  praeuntibus  Beckio 
et  Brunckio  reposui.     Iterum,  v.  33.   r«  cijSs  Xtpffannirltp-" 

(3)  This  has  been  the  case  in  some  Grecian  sepulchres,  of  much  more 
antient  date. 


210  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

other  proof  that  the  bodies  of  the   dead  had 
antiently  been  consumed  by  fire. 

Anticnt          If  the  reader  would  follow  us  in  the  tour  of 

Geography  .  . 

and  Anti-    the  Heracleotic  Peninsula,  it  is  necessary  that  he 

theAKnor    should  have  the  maps,  engraven  for  this  Work, 

aa'   constantly  in  his  hand.     Leaving  Aktiar,  and 

following    the  coast  westward,  we  passed   the 

bay  where  the  Russian   artillery   is   stationed. 

Then,    arriving  upon  the  bay   for  quarantine, 

upon  its  western  side  we   saw  the  ruins  and 

sepulchres  of  a  town   perfectly   distinct  from 

that    of    Chersonesus,   answering    the    situation 

Eupato-      assigned  by  Strabo  to  Eupatorium,  a  town  built 

rium,  T. 

by  Diophantus.  His  observations  state,  that 
the  promontory,  upon  which  this  town  stood, 
inclined  towards  the  city,  at  the  distance  of 
fifteen  stadia,  and  formed  a  considerable  bay ; 
beyond  this  was  the  Ctenus :  and  he  also  adds, 
that  the  inhabitants  built  a  mole  across,  uniting 
the  two  towns  '.  The  remains  of  the  mole  are 
yet  visible;  and  the  distance,  allowing  for  every 
stadium  an  English  furlong2,  is  precisely  that 


(1)  Strab.  lib.  vii.  p.  450.  ed.  Oxon* 

(2)  As  this  rule  is  generally  admitted,  and  vill  be  adopted  through- 
out this  work,  it  may  be  proper  to     insert  the  following   passage, 
concerning  the  Stadium,  from  Casauton's  Commentary  upon  Strabo, 
as  given  in  the  Notes  to  the  Oxford  edition,  p.  467.    "  Stadium,  inquit 
Plinius,  lib.  ii.  c.  23,  centum  viginti  guinque  nostros  efficit  passus.   Quod 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  21 1 

which  he  has  mentioned.     A  place  for  quaran- 
tine is  now  built  upon  this  bay,  and  it  divides 
Eupatorium  from   Chersonesus ;  for  immediately  nlees™~ 
after  passing  the  Quarantine  appears  the  pro- 
montory whereon  the  city  of  Chersonesus  was 
situate :     it    is    now    covered   by   its     ruins '. 
Upon  the  eastern  side,   below  the  walls  of  the 
town,  are  the  antient  sepulchres  of  the  Cherso- 
nesians,  in  great  number,  ranged  in  very  regular 
order.      The   plain    between     Ckersonesus    and 
Eupatorium  is   also   covered   by  ruined   build- 
ings ;    and  to  the  south  of  the  former  city,   at 
the  distance  of  a  verst  behind  the  Promontory, 
upon   an   eminence,  is  a   tumulus  of  a   size  so 


si  est,  uecesse  est  miliare  unum  stadia  efficere  octo.  Plutarchus  in  Grac- 
chis,  p.  838.  torn.  I.  edit.  F.  Furt.  TO  $1  fiiXiav  lx.ru  araSiiuv  oA/yav  u.-x<&ii: 
atque  hac  dimensione  ubi  sunt  Plinius,  Livius,  ut  alibi  docuimus,  et 
Dionysius  Halicarnassensis,  atque  alii.  Polybius  quoque,  librotertio, 
TdUTK>  inquit,  fiipwfiuriffTai  xui  ffiffVft.ttu'rai  KKTO,  e<TK^'mv;  OKTU  a/a:  ¥ta[*.a.iai 


(l)  The  following  valuable  document  may  account  for  the  desolate 
appearance  of  the  city,  and  direct  future  travellers  to  some  of  its 
remains,  very  differently  situated.  I  shall  recur,  hereafter,  to  the 
fact  alluded  to,  of  the  baptism  of  Vladimir:  "  Metropolis  vetunta  Kors- 
sunii,  qua  genii  Rutkenorum  princeps  dedit  laptisma  et  nomen  Chris- 
tianuin,  postea  verb  preedam  gentibus  nostris,  excisa  ab  eis.  Unde 
Kiovia  nostra  in  templorum  suorum  lithostratis,  asarotis,  et  incrusta- 
mentis  retinet  hucusque  certa  prad<e  illius  insignia,  ft  quibus  ct  GNES- 
NENSI  Basilicce  valvam  largita  est."  Excerpta  e  Michalonis  Lituani 
Fragmentis  de  Moribus  Tartarorum. 
VOL.  II.  P 


212  FROM  TjlE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

remarkable,  that  it  cannot  fail  to  attract  notice. 
Immediately  after  passing  the  Promontory  of 
Eupatorium,  towards  the  east,  begins  the  Ctenus, 
or  Harbour  of  Inker  man :  the  entrance  to  this 
constitutes  The  Roads  ofAtkiar,  exactly  corre- 
sponding with  the  account  given  by  Strabo. 
The  old  walls,  both  of  the  town  of  Chersonesus 
and  of  its  buildings,  are  extremely  thick,  being, 
in  fact,  all  double  ;  that  is  to  say,  having  a 
shell  on  each  side  constructed  with  immense 
masses  of  stone,  and  the  interval  between  the 
two  filled  with  cement,  containing  fragments 
of  pottery  and  other  coarse  materials.  Earthen- 
ware seemed  to  have  been  in  great  abundance ; 
not  only  as  it  was  employed  among  the  ma- 
terials for  building,  but  because  the  ground 
was  covered  with  fragments  of  broken  ves_ 
sels.  Two  strong  towers,  one  being  conti- 
guous to  the  bay,  were  entire  in  17Q4.  Pallas 
had  seen  them1.  Attached  to  one  of  these 
was  a  slab  of  white  marble,  with  the  fol- 
lowing inscription:  this  we  copied  from  the 
original,  now  in  the  possession  of  the  Profes- 
sor's friend,  Hablitz. 


(1)  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  74. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  213 

AYTOKPATOPKECAPZHISinNEYCEBHZNIKHTIC 
....  OnEOYKOCMEriCTOCAEICEBACTOC  .  .  . 
<frlAOTIMHCAMENHHAYTnNEYCEBIAnCEI 
nACAICTAICnOAECINKAIENTAYTHTHAYTOY 
nOAlEAnPHCATOXPHMATHNAOClNTACYNA 
rOMENAEKTOYnPAKTIOY<t>HMITOYENTAY0A 
Bl  KAPATOYTUN  KAOOCIIIM  ENUN  BA  AAIC 
TPAPIftNAinNANANEOYNTETATIXHRPOC 
ZHTHPIANTHCAYTTlNriOAEnCKAIEYXAPIC 
TOYNTEC  AN  E0  H  K  A  M  ENTO  AETOTITAON 
EICM  N  H  MOCYNON  AEI AIONTHCAYTON 

BACIAI  AC 

ANENEftOHAEOnYPrOCOYTOCriPA 
TTONTOCTOYM  EfAAOH  PS"KOM  S 
AlOrENOYIETOYCoWBlENINAS'lA 

This  inscription  records  a  return  of  thanks  for 

a  gift  of  money,  and  repairs  done  to  the  walls 

for  the  safety  of  the  city,  during  the  reign  of 

the  Emperor  Zeno,  a  name  common  to  some  of 

the  Roman  Emperors,   at  Constantinople,  in  the 

fifth  and  sixth  centuries.     In  the  latter  part  is 

mentioned  the  restoration  of  a  tower,  probably 

the  same  in  which  the  inscription  was  found. 

The  learned  Reader  will  observe  the  difficulty 

caused  by  the  abbreviations ;  and  also  notice 

the  mode   of  writing   H  for  I,  and  I  for  the 

diphthong  El,  as  well  as   E  for  Al.    The  date^ 

seems  distinctly  preserved,   in  the  epocha  of 


214  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP.    Chersonesus  DXII.  and  the  fourteenth  year  of  the 
v.  .  J 

sixth  Indiction;  answering  to  our  sera,  A.  D.  402. 

In  the  year  ]  794  was  also  found,  about  three 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  a  large  slab 
of  white  marble,  containing  an  inscription  so 
imperfectly  preserved,  that  it  was  not  possible 
to  copy  it  in  a  legible  manner.  It  is  in  the 
Doric  dialect,  and  seems  to  commemorate  the 
gratitude  of  a  people  to  a  citizen  or  magistrate, 
for  the  introduction  of  vineyards.  The  original 
stone  is  still  in  the  possession  of  Admiral 
JVilson,  at  Aktiar. 

From  the  little  harbour  lying  between  the 
cities  of  Chersonesus  and  Eupatorium,  an  artificial 
canal,  winding  round  towards  the  walls  of  the 
former,  and  hewn  in  the  rock,  yet  remains  very 
entire.  It  was  calculated  to  admit  small  vessels 
within  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  Towards  the 
extremity  it  is  now  dry,  although  the  fishing- 
boats  of  the  inhabitants  still  enter  its  mouth. 
"  In  the  city,"  says  Strabo1,  "is  the  temple  of 
a  virgin,  a  certain  dcemon,  from  whom  also  the 
Promontory  is  named,  one  hundred  stadia  farther 
on,  and  called  Parthenium;  having  the  fane  of 
the  daemon,  and  her  image.  Between  the  city 

:— s, . ; __ 

(!)  Sfirrtl.  G:<  gr.  lib.  vii.  p.44G.    ed.  O.nm. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  215 

and  the  Promontory  are  three  ports."     Being    CHAP. 

guided  therefore  by  this  clue,  and  following  the  < „ — ' 

coast,  the  three  harbours  mentioned  by  Strabo 
will  be  found  to  occur  very  regularly ;  but  it  is 
not  so  easy  to  determine  the  particular  promon- 
tory where  the  shrine  and  statue  of  the  dtemon 
virgin  was  said  to  stand.  As  the  coast  inclines 
towards  the  south,  a  very  remarkable  black 
rock  advances  from  the  cliff  into  the  sea, 
towards  the  west,  perforated  by  a  lofty  natural 
arch :  through  this,  boats  may  pass.  The 
singular  appearance  of  such  a  scene  might 
furnish  a  basis  for  superstition ;  and  above  this 
rock  were  the  remains  of  a  building  of  an  oblong 
form,  constructed  with  considerable  masses  of 
stone,  placed  together  without  cement.  Near 
the  place  were  also  other  ruins.  Farther  on  parthe- 
is  a  promontory  yet  more  striking :  to  this  p0ur'"jf 
Formuleoni'  gives  the  name  of  The  Promontory  qfleoni- 
Parthenium:  it  terminates  by  a  perpendicular 
precipice  of  very  great  height.  Then  follows 
the  bay  where  the  Monastery  of  St.  George  is  Monastery 
situate,  in  a  picturesque  and  singular  situation, 
so  placed  among  sloping  rocks  as  to  seem 
inaccessible.  The  few  Monks  who  reside  here 
have  formed  their  little  gardens  upon  terraces, 


(2)  Hist.  Philos.  et  Polit.  clu  Comm.  &c.  dans  le  Mer  Noire.    Ven. 
8vo.  1 7?.!). 


216  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP,  one  above  another.  If  there  be  any  thing  to 
support  Formaleoni 's  opinion,  it  is  the  circum- 
stance of  the  foundation  of  a  monastery  and 
chapel  so  near  to  the  spot.  The  early  Christians, 
in  the  destruction  of  Pagan  edifices,  almost 
always  erected  new  buildings,  sacred  to  their 
own  religion,  upon  the  spot,  and  often  with  the 
materials,  of  the  old.  The  Monks  of  the 
monastery,  in  the  ground  behind  their  chapel, 
had  recently  found  a  small  stone  column,  whose 
shaft  was  seven  feet  eight  inches  and  a  half  in 
length,  and  thirteen  inches  in  diameter.  This 
column,  together  with  a  few  broken  slabs  of 
marble,  and  other  antiquities  discovered  there, 
seem  to  prove,  supposing  Formaleoni 's  position 
of  Parthenium  to  be  correct,  that  in  this  situation 
stood  the  old  Chersonesus,  described  by  Strabo, 
after  speaking  of  the  new,  as  in  ruins,  and 
occurring  after  the  Promontory '.  That  there  is 
some  reason,  however,  to  dissent  from  the 
opinion  maintained  by  Formaleoni,  will  appear 
in  the  sequel ;  as  there  is  a  promontory  between 
the  Monastery  of  St.  George  and  the  harbour  of 
Balaclava;  and  this,  independent  of  the  tradition 
concerning  it,  is  perhaps  more  suited  to  the 
account  Strato  has  given  of  the  fane  of  the  dcemon 


0)    M!T«|I>   Se    rr,;   treAioi;    xtti   vv(    axgag,    Xi/tiyi;    rg-Tf'    iif    A 
*.ppc»»ifi>{  xxrHrxaufiit*.     Sirub.  lib.  vii.  446.    ed.  Oxen. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  217 

virgin,  as  well  as  to  the  terrible  nature  of  her   CHAP. 
rites a.   It  will  be  noticed  in  a  subsequent  account  C 
of  a  journey  we  made  along  this  coast,  with 
Professor  Pallas,  from  Balaclava  to  the  extreme 
south-western  point  of  the  Minor  Peninsula  of 
CHERSONESUS. 

The  whole  of  this  little  peninsula  is  marked 
by  vestiges  of  antient  buildings.  The  remains 
of  walls  traverse  it  in  so  many  directions,  that 
it  is  impossible  to  conceive  the  purposes  for 
which  they  were  erected.  If  we  were  to 
enumerate  the  curious  relics  at  Inkerman,  the 
ruins  of  the  cities  of  Eupatorium  and  Chersonesus, 


(2)  "  On  that  inhospitable  shore,"  says  Gibbon,  speaking  of  the 
Taurica  Chersonesus,  "  Euripides,  embellishing  with  exquisite  art  the 
tales  of  antiquity,  has  placed  the  scene  of  one  of  his  affecting  trage- 
dies. (Iphigen.  in  Taur.}  The  bloody  sacrifices  of  Diana,  the  arrival 
of  Orestes  and  Pylades,  and  the  triumph  of  virtue  and  religion  over 
savage  fierceness,  serve  to  represent  an  historical  truth,  that  the 
Tauri,  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  Peninsula,  were  in  some  degree 
reclaimed  from  their  brutal  manners,  by  a  gradual  intercourse  with  the 
Grecian  colonies,  which  settled  along  the  maritime  coast.  This  seems 
to  concede  more  to  allegory  than  is  consistent  with  the  antient  history 
of  the  Greek  Drama ;  in  which  so  much  attention  was  paid  to  the 
strict  tenor  either  of  record  or  tradition.  It  is  uncertain  to  which  of 
the  Heathen  Goddesses  the  damon  virgin  of  STRABO  may  be  referred. 
The  editor  of  the  Qjrford  Strabo  (p.  446.  in  Not.}  suspects  that  she 
was  of  Scythian  origin.  Her  image  was  believed  to  have  fallen  from 
heaven.  Orestes  carried  it  into  Greece ;  but  the  base  of  the  statue, 
according  to  Ovid,  remained.  In  the  language  of  the  Tauri,  her 
earliest  votaries,  she  was  called  Orsilochc.  Ovid  calls  her  ORESTKA 
DBA  :  Epist.  I.  ex  Pont.  lib.  i. 


218  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

of  the  fortresses,  and  other  buildings  along  the 
coast,  at  Balaclava,  and  other  parts  of  this  small 
district,  we  shall  not  find  more  to  interest  a 
literary  traveller,  in  any  equal  extent  of  territory. 
From  the  Monastery  of  St.  Georgt  we  returned 
to  Aktiar,  having  promised  to  spend  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day  with  Prince  Fiazemskoy. 
As  there  were  no  post-horses,  he  had  kindly 
supplied  us  with  his  own;  and  his  attentions, 
during  the  time  we  remained,  demand  our 
grateful  acknowledgment, 


Afterwards,  we  set  out  again,  by  the  common 
road,  to  Balaclava,  with  a  view  to  examine  that 
place,  and  then  to  traverse  the  whole  coast,  as 
far  as  .  This  journey  not  only  compre- 

hends the  finest  scenery  of  the  Crimea,  but  also 
completes  our  survey  of  its  southern  shore.  So 
.  much  has  been  said  by  travellers  of  the  famous 
Falley  of  Baidar,  that  the  Vale  of  Balaclava, 
although  hardly  surpassed  by  any  scene  in 
the  Crimea,  has  hitherto  escaped  notice.  The 
wild  gigantic  landscape,  towards  its  southern 
extremity  surrounding  the  town  ;  its  mountains, 
ruins,  and  harbour;  its  houses  covered  by 
vines  and  flowers,  or  overshadowed  by  thick 
foliage  of  mulberry  and  walnut  trees  ;  make  it 
altogether  enchanting.  The  ruins  at  Balaclava 
are  those  of  the  UAAAKION  of  Strabo  ;  whence 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  219 

some  believe  the  town  to  have  derived  its  pre- 
sent name.  Others,  perhaps  with  more  reason, 
suppose  the  name  to  have  had  a  Genoese  origin; 
and  they  derive  it  from  Bella  Clava,  the  Beau- 
tiful Port.  Its  harbour  was  the  lYMBOAHN 
AIMHN,  Portus  Symbolorum ;  whose  entrance 
Strabo  so  characteristically  describes1.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  fidelity  with  which  he  has 
designated  the  coasts  of  the  Crimea ;  a  circum- 
stance perhaps  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  his 
native  country;  the  situation  of  Amada  enabling 
him  to  acquire  a  familiar  knowledge  of  the  shores 
of  the  Euxine.  In  his  account  of  the  Archipelago 
and  of  the  Mediterranean,  although  always  an 
accurate  writer,  he  does  not  evince  an  equal 
degree  of  precision.  According  to  him,  the 
port  of  Balaclava,  together  with  the  Ctenus,  or 
harbour  of  Inherman,  constituted  by  their  ap- 
proach an  isthmus  of  forty  stadia,  or  five  miles  : 
this,  with  a  wall,  fenced-in  the  MINOR  PEN- 
INSULA, having  within  it  the  city  of  Chersonesus*. 
The  wall  we  afterwards  found,  in  an  excursion 
with  Professor  Pallas;  and  its  extent  corre- 
sponded with  Strabos  account. 


(1)  "  Ka<  /JUT   auTJJv,  ^tftrir  crrivofrtftts.      Et  post   hanc,  portUS  angusto 
introitu."     Strab.  lib.'vii.  p.  446.    ed.  Of  on. 

(2)  Ibid. 


220  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

The  port  of  Balaclava  is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  in  the  Crimea.    From  the  town 
it  appears  like  one  of  the  smallest  of  our  northern 
lakes,  land-locked  by  high  precipitous  moun- 
tains.   Although  its  entrance  is  so  narrow,  that 
ships  can  barely  obtain  a  passage,  yet  it  affords 
excellent  anchorage,  and  security  in  all  weather 
from   the   dreadful    storms    of  the   Black   Sea. 
Ships  of  war  find  sufficient  depth  of  water,  and 
a  safe  asylum  here.    The  heights  around  it  are 
the   first  objects   descried   by   vessels   sailing 
from  Constantinople.     But  if  any  ill-fated  ma- 
riner, driven  by  tempests,  sought  shelter  in  the 
port  of  Balaclava  during  the  reign  of  PAUL,  his 
vessel  was  speedily  repulsed,  or  sunk,  by  an 
enemy  as  inhospitable  as  the  wind  or  the  waves. 
The  inhabitants  had  small  pieces  of  artillery 
stationed  upon  the  heights,  with  the  most  po- 
sitive orders,  from  that  insensate  tyrant,  to  fire 
at  any  vessel  presuming  to  take  refuge  there. 
The  town  is  colonized  by  Greeks  from  the  Morea; 
a  set  of  daring  pirates,  to  whom  the  place  was 
assigned  by  the  late  Empress,  for  the  services 
they  rendered  to  Russia  in  her  last  war  with  the 
Turks.    We  found  the  inhabitants  of  Misitra, 
of  Corinth,   of  the  isles    Cephalonia,  Zante,  &c. 
living,  without  any  intermixture  of  Tahtars  or 
of  Russians,  according  to  the  manners  and  the 
customs  of  their  own  country.    We  were  treated 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.       221 

by  them,  as  we  had  reason  to  expect  would  be 
the  case,  with  every  degree  of  politeness  and 
of  hospitality.  The  evident  symptoms  of  the 
violent  fever  which  the  author  had  caught  in 
the  bad  air  of  Inkerman  might  have  induced 
many  a  worthy  landlord  to  deny  him  admission 
to  his  house,  through  fear  of  the  plague ;  but 
the  brave  Spartan,  Feodosia1,  with  whom  he 
lodged  at  Balaclava,  not  only  received  his  whole 
party,  but  attended  the  invalid  with  all  the 
solicitude  of  a  kind  friend.  We  arrived  by 
moonlight:  Feodosia s  house  was  beautifully 
situate  upon  a  rock,  near  the  harbour.  The 
variety  of  different  nations  found  in  the  Crimea, 
each  living  as  in  its  own  country,  practising  its 
peculiar  customs,  and  preserving  its  religious 
rites,  is  one  of  the  remarkable  circumstances 
which  render  the  Peninsula  curious  to  a  stranger : 
at  BAKTCHESERAI,  Tahtars  and  Turks;  upon 
the  rocks  above  them,  a  colony  of  Karaite  Jeius ; 
at  BALACLAVA,  a  horde  of  Greeks ;  an  army  of 
Russians  at  AKMETCHET;  in  other  towns,  Ana- 
tolians and  Armenians ;  in  the  STEPPES,  Nagays, 
Gipsies,  and  Calmucks:  so  that,  within  a  small 
compass,  as  in  a  menagerie,  contrasted  speci- 


(l)  A  corrupt  mode  of  pronouncing  Theodosiu;  as  Tlieodore  is  often 
pronounced  Feodore ;  and  Theodaric,  Feodoria  Federic,  and  Fredtric  : 
thus  we  have  the  singular  derivation  of  Frederic  from  Thiodort. 


222  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP,  niens  of  living  rarities  are  singularly  associated. 
y  .y.  ,„/  Nor  is  it  only  with  a  view  to  its  modern  statis- 
tical history  that  the  traveller  finds  so  much 
to  interest  him;  his  attention  is  continually 
diverted  from  mere  statistical  considerations  by 
the  antiquities  of  the  country.  At  Balaclava 
they  offered  for  sale  several  Greek  coins,  of 
uncommon  beauty  and  rarity:  the  most  re- 
markable were  of  silver.  Of  these  we  shall 
briefly  notice  five,  which  are  not  generally 
known1. 

Upon  the  heights  above  the  mouth  of  the 

port,  are  the  ruins  of  a  magnificent  fortress, 

Genoese  built  by  the  Genoese  when  they  possessed  this 

lortress.  J  J    r 

harbour.     The  arms   of   Genoa   are   upon   the 


(1)  They  were  as  follow :  A  silver  medal  of  Heraclea,  PRSCIPUI 
NITORIS,  to  use  the  words  of  Pliny  concerning  the  city  to  which  it  be- 
longed. Heraclea,  according  to  that  author,  was  the  name  of  the 
Cliersonesian  city ;  and  this  medal  exhibits  upon  one  side  a  bearded 
head  of  Hercules,  covered  by  the  lion's  spoils ;  and  upon  the  other, 
within  an  indented  square,  the  word  HPAKAE1A,  with  the  letters  AAM. 
A  silver  medal  of  PHOCIS,  of  similar  size  and  workmanship,  having  ou 
one  side  a  bull's  face ;  and  for  reverse,  the  hcad_  of  Apollo,  with  the 
letters  OOKI.  A  third  in  silver,  and  of  the  same  size,  perhaps  of 
£us  :  it  has  on  one  side  an  eagle's  head,  and  for  reverse  a  thunderbolt. 
A  fourth,  of  yet  smaller  size,  and  of  the  same  metal,  is  unknown:  it 
has  upon  one  side  a  scorpion;  and  upon  the  other,  within  an  indented 
square,  a  dolphin.  A  fifth,  and  last,  was  a  bronze  medal  of  Rhceme- 
talces  king  of  Bosporus,  having  in  front  the  regalia  sent  from  Rome  for 
his  coronation,  with  the  legend  BA2IAEnS  POIMHTAAKOT,  and  for 
reverse,  the  letters  MH  in  a  wreath  of  laurel. 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS,  223 

walls.  The  mountain  upon  the  north-east  side 
is  covered  with  its  mouldering  towers ;  and  the 
rock  itself  has  been  so  excavated,  as  to  contain 
stately  magazines  and  chambers,  whose  sides 
are  lined  with  coloured  stucco.  It  is  surprising 
that  the  inhabitants  of  Balaclava  do  not  make 
use  of  these  caves  ;  for  they  are  very  habitable, 
and  the  stucco  is  still  in  the  highest  preservation. 
We  entered  one  of  them :  it  was  a  spacious 
oblong  chamber,  lined  throughout  with  stucco, 
resembling  that  of  the  famous  Piscina  mirabile*, 
near  the  supposed  villa  of  Lucullus,  at  Baia  in 
Italy.  We  could  form  no  conjecture  for  what 
purpose  this  place  was  designed,  unless  it  were 
intended  for  a  granary  or  store-room :  it  bore 
no  marks  of  any  aqueous  deposit,  therefore  it 
could  not  have  been  used  as  a  reservoir  for 
water.  The  mountains,  surrounding  the  port,  Geology  of 

the  Crimea. 

are  of  red  and  white  marble,  full  of  cracks  and 
fissures ;  but  calculated  for  ample  quarries,  if 
worked  beyond  the  surface.  The  shore  is  in 
some  parts  covered  by  fine  glittering  sand, 
whose  particles  entirely  consist  of  gold-coloured 
mica,  in  a  state  of  extreme  division;  fitted  for 


(2)  A  cement  containing  arenaceous  pumice,  or  putzolana,  so  indu* 
rated  by  age  and  the  effect  of  water,  that  it  is  susceptible  of  a  liis;U 
polish.  Specimens  of  this  substance,  bearing  the  name  of  "polish ed 
wortar,"  are  sold  as  curiosities  by  the  lapidaries  of  Naples. 


224  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

the  most  beautiful  writing- sand  that  can  be 
used :  and  as  this  may  be  here  obtained  in  any 
quantity,  it  might  perhaps  answer  as  an  article 
of  commerce ;  since  nothing  that  has  been  sold 
by  stationers,  for  a  similar  purpose,  can  be 
compared  with  this  micaceous  sand  of  Balaclava. 
When  scattered  over  fresh  writing,  it  produces 
an  effect  as  if  the  ink  had  been  covered  with 
minute  scales  of  polished  gold;  which  it  will 
retain  for  any  number  of  years.  This  is  the 
kind  of  gold  dust  alluded  to  by  Trebellius  Pollio ', 
with  which  the  Emperor  Gallienus  powdered  his 
hair.  It  is  still  used  fay  the  women  of  Armenia, 
and  some  other  parts  of  the  East,  for  the  same 
ornamental  purpose. 


The    appearance    of   so    much  mica  might 

nary  Geolo-    .  ...  . 

gicai  ph<e-  induce  an  opinion  that  a  substratum,  anterior  in 
its  formation  to  the  rocks  which  surround  the 
port,  cannot  lie  very  deep ;  but  there  is  no  part 
of  the  world  where  geological  phenomena  are  so 
extraordinary.  Pallas  often  confessed,  that  in 
all  his  travels  he  had  never  met  with  any 
similar  appearances2.  It  is  impossible  to  con- 


(1)  Trebell.  Pollio,  Vit.   Gallien.  ap.  Hist.  August.  Script,    torn.  If. 
p.  232.  L.JBat.  1672. 

(2)  The  small  treatise  he  extracted  from  the  Journal  of  his  Travels 
in  the  Crimea  in  1794,  and  published  at  Petersburg  in  1796,  has  been 
before  noticed.   It  is  so  extremely  rare,  that  the  Reader  may  perhaps  be 

gratified 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  225 

jecture  the  depth  where  the  primitive  foundation  CHAP. 
of  granite  lies :  there  are  no  traces  of  any  such 
substance,  not  even  among  the  pebbles  on  the 
coast.  The  strata  of  the  Crimea  have  been 
formed  by  .a  process  so  inexplicable,  that  no 
attention  to  their  position  will  afford  matter  for 
any  regular  systematic  arrangement.  The  tra- 
veller advancing  from  the  Isthmus  of  Perecop, 
towards  the  chain  of  mountains  extending 
along  the  southern  coast,  finds  the  great  northern 
plain  of  the  Peninsula  consisting  of  a  soft 
calcareous  deposit,  by  an  alternate  series  of 
depressed  surfaces  continually  sinking  towards 
the  south.  Almost  all  the  principal  elevations 


gratified  by  the  insertion  of  a  short  extract  concerning  the  singular 
phenomena  displayed  in  the  geology  of  the  Peninsula.  "  Dans  un  pays 
qui  a  des  montagnes  si  e'leve'es,  que  quelque  part  la  neige  et  la  glace  s'y 
conservent  pendant  tout  I'e'te',  qui  d'ailleurs  est  isole"  par  la  mer,  on 
devroit,  selon  les  loix  ge'ne'rales  de  la  nature,  s'attendre  a  trouver  fe* 
trois  ordres  de  montagnes  :  les  primitives  granitiques  pour  centre  d'e"l£- 
vation  :  les  schisteuses  secondaires  ;  et  les  tertiares  a  couches  horizon- 
tales,  m£le"es  de  petrifactions;  ou  bien,  comme  en  Sicile,  un  noyau  ou 
centre  volcanique,  et  les  couches  secondaires  et  tertiares  sur  les  contours. 
Mais  en  Tauride  il  ii'existe  ni  1'un  ni  1'autre  de  ces  arrangements  Ob- 
serve's  dans  tous  les  autres  pays  de  montagne.  L'on  ne  voit,  dans 
I'escarpement  maritime  de  toute  la  haute  chaine  des  Alpes  de  la  Tauride 
rien  que  des  couches  secondaires  du  dernier  ordre,  inclindes  sur  1' ho- 
rizon a  un  angle  plus  ou  moins  approchant  celui  de  45  de'gre's,  etpresque 
toutes  plus  ou  moins  paralleles  poshes  dans  une  direction  qui  varie 
entre  le  sud-ouest  et  le  nord-ouest.  Toutes  ces  couches  sont  done 
couple  par  la  direction  de  la  cote,  et  on  le  voit  toutes  a  de"couvert  sur 
1'eficarpement  maritime  des  montagnes,  comme  les  feuillets  d'un  livre 
ou  les  tomet  d'une  tibliothequf."  Tab.  de  la  Taur.  pp.  8,  4,  5. 


226  FROM  THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  CRIMEA, 

CHAP.  Of  tne  globe  rise  from  the  east,  and  fall  towards 
the  west.  The  declivities  of  the  Crimea,  and  the 
precipitous  sides  of  its  mountains,  are  all 
opposed  to  the  south.  Perhaps  a  more  familiar 
exposition  of  these  geological  phenomena  may 
be  afforded,  by  saying,  that  the  perceptible 
elevations  of  the  Peninsula,  visible  even  in  its 
plains,  resemble,  by  their  alternate  order,  the 
teeth  of  a  saw. 

Towards  the  south,  its  highest  mountains  are 
all  broken  abruptly,  as  if  by  the  sinking  of  the 
main  bed  in  the  depths  of  the  Black  Sea.     To- 
wards the  north,  a  tertiary  deposit  of  calcareous 
matter,  filled  with  the  remains  of  shells,  extends 
beyond   the    Isthmus    of  Perecop,    even  to  the 
Dnieper.     Hence  the  exterior,  or  upper  strata, 
of  the  Peninsula  are  proved  to  consist  of  calca- 
reous matter,  of  very  recent  formation  ;  and  in 
this  there  is  nothing  otherwise  remarkable,  than 
the  evidence  afforded,  by  the  remains  of  marine 
bodies,  of  the  draining  of  a  vast  body  of  water 
from  the  great  Plain  of  Tahtary ;  a  subject  we 
shall  not  now  further  discuss.     But  the  wonder 
is,  that  where  mountains  have  attained  an  eleva- 
tion of  above   twelve  hundred  feet,  no  trace, 
either  of  primitive  granite,  or,  as  a  leader  to  it, 
Gneiss,  or  any  regular  schistose  deposit,  should 
appear.      Beneath   these  enormous  calcareous 


TO  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS.  227 

masses,   pillars,  if  they  may  be   so  called,   of    CHAP. 
marble,  of  trap,  of  clay,  of  common  limestone,   and 
of  schistus,  make  their  appearance,  in  parallel 
and  almost  vertical   veins,    propping    up    the 
superincumbent   strata.     Pallas   forcibly  illus- 
trates their  position,  by  observing,  that  they 
stand  like  books  upon  the  shelf  of  a  library  V 
These  veins   alternate   with  each   other;    and 
although   they  be   somewhat    inclined,  leaning 
from   north-west  towards  the    south-east,  yet 
their  position,   in  certain   instances,    is  nearly 
vertical.     These  extraordinary  phenomena  may 
be  discerned  all  along  the  south-western  coast : 
and  that  the  depth  to  which  they  extend  must 
be  very  great,  is  evident  from  the  appearance 
of  the  marble  mountains  of  Balaclava,  whose 
precipitous  elevation  from   the  sea  denotes  a 
corresponding  depth  below  the  water.     When 
the  veins  of  clay  are  washed  away  by  the  sea, 
either  vast  chasms  are  left,  or  the  neighbouring 
veins  fall  in;   as   it  happened  upon  the  south 
coast  at  Kutchukoy,  not  long  ago,  where  a  whole 
village  was  buried.     Sometimes  veined   slate 
appears  within  the  clay,  and  often  blocks  of  wood, 
so  impregnated  with  bitumen,  that  they  burn  like 
coal.     The  coast  of  Balaclava  consists  entirely 
of  marble  :   more  towards  the  north-west,  as  at 

(l)  See  the  Note  to  p.  225. 
VOL.11.  Q 


228  BALACLAVA. 

the  Monastery  of  St.  George,  it  is  formed  of  black 
slate;  farther  on,  the  other  substances  occur, 
•according  to  the  order  and  position  already 
described.  North  of  the  coast,  these  veins  are 
covered  by  calcareous  matter,  full  of  the  remains 
of  organized  bodies.  The  extraneous  fossils  of 
the  Crimea  are  exceedingly  curious ;  many  of 
them  relate  to  animals  now  unknown.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  Lapis  nummularius, 
very  common  here,  but  elsewhere  extremely 
rare.  It  is  found  near  to  Grand  Cairo,  and 
at  the  base  of  the  greater  Pyramid  in  Egypt, 
and  in  some  parts  of  France1. 


sheets  °f   Balaclava  perhaps  resemble 
Greek        t}ie  appearance  they  exhibited  in  antient  times. 
The  principal  street  is  very  like  that  of  Pompeii, 


(1)  Strabo  noticed  this  fossil  at  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt;  and  we 
afterwards  found  it  there,  exactly  as  by  him  described.  He  supposed  it 
to  have  been  formed  of  the  lentils  petrified,  which  were  given  as  food  to 
the  workmen  employed  in  building  the  Pyramids.  Pallas  has  attempted 
to  account  for  its  origin,  by  an  opinion  entirely  his  own.  "  I  cannot  on 
this  occasion  omit  to  express  my  opinion  respecting  a  fossil,  the  origin  of 
which  has  not  hitherto  been  explored.  As  its  external  shells  have  no 
orifice  whatever,  and  may  easily  be  separated  from  each  other ;  while  its 
internal  cellular  texture,  consisting  of  annular  divisions  and  thin  lateral 
scales,  has  not  the  least  resemblance  to  the  abode  of  a  testaceous  animal, 
but  rather  to  the  inner  structure  of  a  cuttle-fish  bone;  I  am  induced  to 
conjecture  that  the  lenticular  stones  have  originated  in  the  shell  or  bone  of 
a  peculiar  gregarious  species  of  Doris,  or  Sepia,  which  formerly  inhabited 
the  deep,  has  in  process  of  time  been  mixed  with  the  calcareous  mire  de- 
posited by  the  sea,  and  thus  at  length  become  completely  extinct ;  so  that 
we  possess  no  account  of  its  living  state."  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  21. 


BALACLAVA.  229 

near  Naples,  which  lias  been  laid  open;  being  CHAP. 
quite  as  narrow,  and  being  also  paved  after  the 
same  manner ;  only  the  materials  of  the  Balaclava 
pavement  consist  of  variegated  red  and  ivhite 
marble,  instead  of  lava.  The  appearance  of  the 
stones  proves  that  the  marble  of  Balaclava  is 
susceptible  of  a  very  high  polish.  The  shops 
are  also  like  those  of  Pompeii;  and  the  inhabitants, 
as  in  that  city,  are  all  of  them  Greeks.  Their 
uniform  adherence  to  the  antient  costume  of 
their  country,  although  a  little  theatrical,  autho- 
rizes the  allusion.  They  wear  helmets;  but 
these  being  made  of  green  and  of  red  morocco, 
and  not  a  little  greasy  with  use,  cause  the  Greeks 
of  Balaclava  to  exhibit  rather  a  caricature,  than 
a  correct  portrait  of  their  progenitors.  The 
fruit-market  here  is  a  very  good  one,  particularly 
for  melons.  We  entered  one  of  their  melon 
shops,  containing  about  two  thousand  water- 
meltons,  heaped  into  a  regular  square  mass :  these 
were  selling  for  ten  copeeks  the  dozen ;  less  than 
a  halfpenny  each.  The  water-melon  of  the  Crimea 
does  not  grow  to  half  the  size  it  attains  at  Naples; 
but  its  flavour  is  nearly  the  same.  At  Cher  son, 
farther  towards  the  north,  it  grows  as  large  as  in 
Italy.  Vines  cover  the  porticoes  of  all  the  doors 
in  Balaclava :  so  rapid  is  the  growth  of  that  plant, 
that,  within  two  years,  if  they  told  us  the  truth, 
a  vine  yielded  two  bushels  of  grapes.  They 

Q  2 


230  BALACLAVA. 

have  no  foreign  commerce.     The  rest  of  their 
shops  were  appropriated  to  the  sale  of  the  few 
Manners  of  necessaries  required  by  the   inhabitants;  who 

the  People.  .      J 

seemed  to  lead  an  idle  life,  smoking,  taking 
coffee,  chewing  tobacco  or  opium,  lounging  about 
the  streets,  or  playing  at  chess  or  at  draughts, 
in  the  coffee-houses,  or  before  the  doors  of  their 
dwellings.  We  observed  a  game  here  which 
was  quite  new  to  us :  the  Greeks  call  it  Man- 
gala.  We  saw  it  afterwards  in  Constantinople. 
It  is  played  with  a  board  having  two  rows  of 
parallel  partitions :  into  each  of  these  was  placed 
a  certain  number  of  small  shells,  such  as  the 
natives  of  Guinea  use  for  money '. 

We  found  it  necessary  to  leave  OUT  carriage 
at  Balaclava,  in  order  to  visit  the  celebrated 
Galley  of  Baidar.  The  passage  is  performed  on 
horseback,  over  high  mountains,  covered  with 
wood  to  their  summits,  and  having  more  of  the 
Apennine  than  of  the  Alpine  character:  the 
mountains  which  border  the  coast  of  the  Crimea 
partake  of  neither ;  they  cannot  be  said  to  re- 
semble those  of  any  other  country. 

(I)  The  Cvprcca  tnonela  of  Linncnu. 


Vessels  of  T«rra  Cotta,  preserving  antique  forms,  in  use  among  the  Tahtart. 


CHAP.  VI. 


FROM  THE  HERACLEOTIC  CHERSONESUS,  ALONC  THE 
SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

Palley  of  Baidar  —  Domestic  Habits  and  Manners  of  the 
Tahtars  —  Passage  of  the  Merdveen  —  Kulchuckoy  — 
Plants  and  Minerals  —  Transitions  —  CRIU-METOFON 
—  Aloupka  —  Other  Villages  on  the  Coast  —  Country 
letiveeen  Kutchdckoy  and  Sudak  —  Tahtar  School  — 
Vestiges  of  the  Genoese  Language — Ruins  of  a  Greek 
Monastery  —  AI'VDAGH  Promontory  —  Parthenit  — 
Alusta-Tchetirdagh,  or  MONS  TRAPF.ZUS — Shuma  — 


232  VALLEY  OF  BAIDAR, 

Position  of  tfie  Crimean  'Mountains  —  Den/kcuy  — 
Mahmoud  Sultan  —  Return  to  Akmetchet  —  Marriage 
Ceremony  of  tlie  Greek  Church  —  Jewish  Wedding  — 
Military  Force  of  the  Crimea  —  SUVOROF. 

JL  HERE  is  no  part  of  the  Crimea  which  has 
been  more  extolled  by  preceding  travellers 
than  the  Valley  of  Baidar.  It  has  been  de- 
scribed under  the  pompous  titles  of  the  Tauric 
Arcadia,  and  the  Crimean  Tempe ',  with  much 
warmth  of  fancy,  and,  as  it  might  be  expected, 
with  some  fallacy  of  representation.  If  any 
attempt  be  now  made  to  dispel  the  illusion  thus 
excited,  it  is  in  the  hope  that  others  coming 
after  may  not  meet  with  disappointment.  "  Even 
the  vales  of  Caucasus,"  says  Pallas  *,  "  far  surpass 
this  celebrated  spot."  It  will  not  admit  of  a 
comparison  with  many  of  the  beautiful  scenes 
in  Switzerland,  nor  even  with  those  in  Norway 
and  Siveden.  A  very  extensive  cultivated  plain, 
surrounded  by  high  mountains,  may  be  con- 
sidered as  one  of  those  pleasing  prospects  which 
call  to  mind  the  description  given  by  Johnson 
of  his  Abyssinian  Vale ;  but,  being  destitute  of 
water  as  an  ornament,  it  is  deficient  in  a  prin- 
cipal object  of  picturesque  scenery.  The  valley 


fl)  See  the  Travels  of  Lady  Craven,  Mrs.  Mann  Gulhrie,  &e. 
(2)  Travels  in  the  South  of  Russia,  vol.  II.  p.  135. 


IN  THE  CRIMEA.  233 

itself,  abstracting  all  consideration  of  the  moun- 
tains around,  may  be  compared  to  many  parts 
of  Britain ;  particularly  to  the  vales  of  Kent 
and  of  Surrey.  It  is  rather  more  than  ten  miles 
in  length,  and  six  in  breadth;  beautifully  cul- 
tivated, so  that  the  eye  roams  over  meadows, 
woods,  and  rich  corn-fields,  inclosed  and  inter- 
sected by  green  hedges  and  garden  plantations 3. 
The  villages  are  neat,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
healthy.  Their  fields,  protected  from  violent 


(3)  "  This  famous  valley  belongs  to  Admiral  Mordvlnof;  but  his 
possession   was  contested  when   we  were  there,  and  the  rents  were 
paid  to  Government,  in  deposit.     Many  of  the  Russian  proprietors  of 
the  Crimea  were  in  the  same  condition,  owing  to  the  following  circum- 
stances, as  they  were  represented  to  me  by  a  young  man,  named  the 
Count  de    Rochfort,    who  was  nephew   to  the    Duke   of  Richelieu. 
Under  the  terrors   of    conquest,  the  Tahtar  proprietors  made  little 
opposition  to  the  grants   which  were    made  of  their  lands;  bat  now 
that  they  are  again  in  some  measure  restored  to  their  rights,   such  as 
did  not  come    properly  under  the  description  of  emigrants  have  com.- 
menced  processes  to  obtain  a  reversion  of  their  forfeitures,  which  was 
a  very  unexpected  blow  to   their  mastess.     The  Russians,   since  the 
conquest,  have  established  their  abominable  code  of  slavery  ;  but  not 
on  so  rigid  a  footing  as  in  their  own  country.     Two  days  a  week,  we 
understood  from  Pallas,  is  all  the  work  a  Tabtar  is  obliged  to  do  gratis 
for  his  lord ;  and  the   Russians  complain    heavily  of  their  idleness. 
The  mountaineers  are  almost  all  either  entirely  freeholders,  or  on  the 
footing  of  peasants  of  the  crown.     The  number  of  Russian  residents 
in  the  Crimea   is   reduced  greatly.     Some  have  taken    alarm  at  the 
tenure  of  their  lands  ;  others  have  sustained  great   losses   by  their 
slaves  running  away,  some  of  whom  are  received  and  concealed  by 
the  Kuban  Cossacks  ;  which  however  is  now  prevented  by  the  Duke 
of  Richelieu's  government,   which  includes  the  whole  country  up  to 
Caucasus  and  the  Caspian."       Halcr's  MS.  Journal. 


234  VALLEY  OF  BAIDAR, 

CHAP.    winds,  and  irrigated  by  clear  streams  falling 
from  the  hills,  seem  to  afford  them  a  happy 
retreat ;  and  our  ride  through  the  valley  was 
very  pleasing.     The  mode  of  inclosure,  and  the 
manner  of  cultivation,    resemble  those  of  our 
own  country.     The  mountains,  and  the   plain, 
are   thick  set  with  oak,  wild  pear,  crab,  and 
carnelian   cherry-trees,    whose  foliage   shaded 
the   road,  and  protected  us  from  the   scorch- 
ing rays  of  the   sun ;  otherwise  darting  with 
uncommon  force    into  this  valley.     Our  lodg- 
ing at  night,    and    our   meals  by  day,    were 
entirely    among    Tahtars :     this    circumstance 
enabled  us  to  witness  the  domestic  habits  of  the 
people.     When   a  stranger  arrives,  they   con- 
duct him  into  an  apartment  appropriated  solely 
for  men,  and  present  to  him  a  bason,  water, 
and  a  clean  napkin,  to  wash  his  hands.     Then 
they  place  before  him  whatsoever  their  dwell- 
ing   affords,    of    curd,    cream,    honey  in  the 
comb,   poached  eggs,   roasted  fowls,   or  fruit. 
After  the  meal  is  over,  the  bason  and  water  are 
brought  in  as  before  ;  because  the  Tahtars,  like 
the    Turks  and  other  Oriental  nations,  eat  with 
their  fingers ;    not  using  forks.     Then,   if  the 
visit  be  made  in  the  house  of  a  rich  Tahtar,  a 
long  pipe  is  presented,  having  a  tube  of  cherry- 
tree  wood,  tipped  with  amber  or  ivory.    After 
this,   carpets   and   cushions   are   laid    for   the 


IN  THE  CRIMEA.  235 

guests,  that  they  may  repose.     The  houses  of 
the   Tahtars,    even  the    cottages  of  the  poor, 
are  extremely  clean,  being  often  white-washed. 
The  floor  generally  consists  of  earth ;  but  this  is 
smooth,   firm,  dry,   and  it  is  covered  with  mats 
and  carpets.     The  meanest  Tahtar  possesses  a 
double  dwelling;  one  for  himself  and  his  guests, 
and  another  for  his  women.     They  do  not  allow 
their  most  intimate  friends  to  enter  the  place 
allotted  for  the  female  part  of  the  family.     We 
were  quite  surprised  to  find,  that,  with  so  much 
cleanliness,  the  itch  was  a  prevalent  disorder. 
It  was   also  difficult  to   escape   attacks  from 
venomous  insects  and  vermin.     The  tarantula, 
the  scorpion,  the  cock-roach,  different  kinds  of 
lice,   bugs,  fleas,  flies,  and  ants,   more  or  less 
incommoded  us  in  the  place  where  we  rested  ; 
and   we  found  it  necessary  to  reconcile   our- 
selves, occasionally,    to  the   appearance   of  a 
few   large   toads   crawling  near  to   our  beds. 
With  all  these  inconveniences,  we  nevertheless 
deemed  the  change,  from  a  Russian  palace  to 
a  Tahtar  cottage,  very  desirable.     In  the  houses 
of  RUSSIAN   grandees,    unwholesome    filth   is 
ill  concealed  by  external  splendour :  but  the 
floor  and  the  walls  of  a  Tahtar 's  residence,  be 
it  but  a  cottage,  are  white  and  clean.     Even  the 
place  where  his  fire  burns  is  unsoiled  by  smoke  ; 
and    if   the  traveller  be  properly   cautioned 


236  VALLEY  OF  BAIDAR, 

CHAP,    to  avoid   the   contact  of  woollen  clothes   and 
carpets,  he  may  consider  himself  secure. 

Domestic  A  favourite  beverage  of  sour  milk  mixed 
Manners"  with  water,  the  yowrt  of  the  Turks,  is  found  to 
Tajjar*.  be  in  request  among  the  Tahtars,  as  among  the 
Laplanders.  They  all  shave  their  heads,  both 
young  and  old :  and  in  their  houses  they  wear 
a  sort  of  scull-cap;  over  this,  in  winter,  is 
placed  a  larger  and  loftier  helmet  of  wool ;  or 
during  summer,  a  turban.  Their  legs,  in  winter, 
are  swathed  in  cloth  bandages,  like  those  worn 
throughout  Russia,  and  their  feet  are  covered  by 
the  kind  of  sandal  before  represented '.  In  sum- 
mer, their  legs  and  their  feet  are  naked.  Their 
shirts,  like  those  in  Turkey,  are  wide  and  loose 
at  the  sleeves,  hanging  down  below  the  ends  of 
their  fingers.  If  they  have  occasion  to  use  their 
hands,  either  to  eat  or  to  work,  they  cast  back 
the  sleeve  of  the  shirt  upon  the  shoulder; 
leaving  the  arm  bare.  The  jacket  or  waistcoat 
is  generally  of  silk  and  cotton :  the  trowsers  are 
made  very  large,  full,  and  loose ;  and,  although 
bound  tight  below  the  knee,  they  fall  in  thick  folds 
upon  the  calf  of  the  leg.  A  small  pocket,  in  the 
waistcoat,  below  the  breast,  serves  to  keep  the 


<  l)  See  the  Vignette  to  the  Tenth  Chapter  of  the  First  Volume. 


IN  THE  CRIMEA.  237 

steel  and  flint  for  kindling  their  pipes.     Some- 
times, in  summer,  they  cover  their  feet  with 
morocco  slippers,  but  these  are  always  taken 
off  when  they  enter  their  apartments.     Upon 
similar  occasions  we  took  off  our  boots :  this 
was  a  troublesome  ceremony;  but  they  were 
evidently    uneasy    if   we    sat    down    without 
attending  to  this  piece  of  etiquette.    They  have 
no  chairs  in  their  houses ;  a  single  stool,  about 
three  inches  high,  answers  the  purpose  of  a 
table,  for  supporting  a  tray  during  their  meals. 
This    stool   is   often   ornamented,    either   with 
carved  work,  or  it  is  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl. 
The  use  of  a  carpet  and  of  matting  for  the  floor 
is  universal:  sometimes,  as  a  substitute,  they 
employ  thick  cloths  of  their  own  manufacture 
from  goat's  hair :  these  are  exported  to   Con- 
stantinople.    Of  whatever  material  the  covering 
of  the  floor  may  be,  they  are  careful  to  keep  it 
clean;  but,  after  all,  it  is  apt  to  swarm  with 
vermin.     During  the  summer  months,  the  men 
make  very  little  use  of  that  part  of  the  dwelling 
which  is  peculiarly  set  apart  for  them.     Their 
chief  delight  consists  in  living  exposed  to  the 
open  air ;  sleeping  at  night  beneath  the  portico 
before  their  door,  or  under  the  shade  of  fine 
spreading  trees  cultivated  near  their  houses. 
In  the  principal  chamber  of  a  Tahtar  dwelling 
is  a  place  bearing  the  name  of  sofa :  this  answers 
to  the  Turkish  divan;  it  is  a  platform  raised 


238  VALLEY  OF  BAIDAR, 

CHAP,    twelve  inches  from  the  floor,   occupying   one 

VI 

entire  side  of  the  apartment;  not  for  the  purpose, 
however,  of  a  seat,  but  as  a  receptacle  for  their 
household  chests,  for  the  Dii  do?nestici,  and  for 
heaps  of  carpets,  mats,  cushions,  and  clothes. 
The  same  custom  may  be  observed  in  the  tents 
of  the  Calmucks.  Simplicity  generally  charac- 
terizes the  manners  and  dress  of  the  Tahtars ; 
yet  some  of  their  customs  betray  a  taste  for 
finery.  Their  pillows  are  covered  with  coloured 
linen ;  and  the  napkins  for  their  frequent  ablu- 
tions are  embroidered  and  fringed.  If  one  of 
their  guests  chance  to  fall  asleep,  although  but 
for  a  few  minutes  during  the  day,  they  bring 
him  water  to  wash  himself  as  soon  as  they 
perceive  he  is  awake.  In  their  diet  they  make 
great  use  of  honey.  Their  mode  of  keeping  and 
taking  bees  accords  with  the  usual  simplicity 
of  their  lives.  They  form  cylinders,  about  six 
inches  in  diameter,  from  the  trunks  of  young 
trees,  scooping  out  almost  all  the  wood,  ex- 
cepting the  bark ;  then,  closing  the  extremities 
of  these  cylinders  with  mortar  or  with  mud, 
they  place  them  horizontally,  piled  upon  one 
another,  in  their  gardens,  for  hives.  They  often 
opened  such  cylinders,  to  give  us  fresh  honey  : 
the  bees  were  detached,  merely  by  being  held 
over  a  piece  of  burning  paper,  without  any  aid 
of  sulphur.  The  honey  of  the  Crimea  is  of  a 
very  superior  quality ;  the  bees,  as  in  Greece, 


IN  THE  CRIMEA.  239 

feeding  upon  blossoms  of  the  wild  thyme  of 
the  mountains,  and  the  indigenous  flowers  of 
the  country.  Every  Tahtar  cottage  has  its 
garden,  in  the  cultivation  of  which  the  owner 
finds  his  principal  amusement.  Vegetation  is 
so  rapid,  that  within  two  years,  as  already 
stated  in  the  account  of  Balaclava,  young  vines 
not  only  form  a  shade  before  the  doors,  but 
appear  actually  laden  with  fruit.  The  Tahtars 
delight  to  have  their  houses  buried,  as  it  were, 
in  foliage.  These  dwellings  consist  each  only 
of  one  story,  with  a  low  flat  roof,  beneath  trees 
spreading  immense  branches  quite  over  the 
whole  building ;  so  that  a  village,  at  a  distance, 
is  only  known  by  the  tufted  grove  wherein  it 
lies  concealed.  When  the  traveller  arrives, 
not  a  house  is  to  be  seen;  it  is  only  after 
passing  among  the  trees,  and  beneath  their 
branches,  that  he  begins  to  perceive  cottages, 
overshadowed  by  the  exuberant  vegetation  of 
the  walnut,  the  mulberry,  the  vine,  the  fig,  the 
olive,  the  pomegranate,  the  peach,  the  apricot, 
the  plum,  the  cherry,  and  the  tall  black  poplar 
tree :  all  of  which,  intermingling  their  clustering 
produce,  form  the  most  beautiful  and  fragrant 
canopies  that  can  be  imagined. 

In  every  Tahtar  house  they  preserve  one  or 
more  copies  of  the  Koran ;  these  are  always  in 


VALLEY  OF  13AIDAR. 

manuscript,  and  they  are  generally  written  in 
very  beautiful  characters.  The  children  are 
early  taught,  not  only  to  read,  but  to  copy 
them.  The  size  of  the  cap,  or  bonnet,  is  all 
that  distinguishes  the  priests  of  the  different 
villages  from  the  rest  of  the  community ;  being 
made  much  larger  for  them,  and  rising  to  a 
greater  height  from  the  head.  The  horses  of 
the  country,  although  not  equal  to  those  of 
Circassiat  are  remarkable  for  their  high  breed, 
as  well  as  for  their  beauty  and  swiftness :  they 
are  small  and  very  sure  footed,  but  rather 
stouter  than  Circassian  horses,  considered  the 
fleetest  and  most  beautiful  race  of  coursers  in 
the  world.  If  travellers  be  provided  with  an 
order  from  the  Governor  of  the  district,  the 
Tahlars  are  compelled  to  provide  horses,  lodging, 
and  even  provisions,  gratis.  We  had  this  order; 
but  we  took  no  advantage  of  the  privilege 
annexed  to  its  possession ;  a  mode  of  conduct 
consistent  with  English  customs  and  English 
opinions ;  but  diametrically  opposite  to  those 
of  Russia,  where  it  is  considered  degrading  to 
bestow  a  thought  upon  making  any  remunera- 
tion, unless  it  be  a  matter  of  compulsion. 

To  avoid  the  intense  heat  of  the  middle  of  the 
day,  we  began  our  journey  towards  the  coast 
on  Tuesday  the  Jiflh  of  August,  at  five  o'clock  in 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  341 

the  morning.  Leaving  the  Valley  of  Baidar,  we 
ascended  the  mountains  inclosing  it  towards  the 
south.  By  dint  of  actually  climbing  among 
rocks  and  trees,  through  a  very  Alpine  pass, 
we  at  length  attained  the  heights  above  the 
sea.  Here  a  descent  began  towards  the  shore, 
and  a  vast  and  terrific  prospect  was  opened. 
Naked  rocks  rose  perpendicularly,  to  such 
amazing  elevation,  that  even,  the  wide  and 
misty  sea,  dashing  its  waves  against  their 
bases,  was  unheard  at  the  immense  distance, 
and  appeared  insignificant,  when  compared  with 
the  vastness  of  the  objects  to  which  it  was 
opposed.  Between  their  craggy  summits,  we 
were  conducted  to  the  Merdveen,  a  name  signi-  Passage  of 
fying  *  stairs'  in  the  Tahtar  language :  these  steps 
were  hewn  in  the  natural  rock  in  some  remote 
age.  Here  we  alighted,  and  left  our  horses  to 
themselves ;  beginning  a  laborious  and  a  difficult 
descent.  A  passage  of  this  nature,  less  preci- 
pitous, exists  in  the  Island  of  Caprea,  near 
Naples.  It  leads  from  the  modern  town  of 
Capri  to  Anacapri;  but  horses  are  never  seen 
there.  The  only  beasts  of  burden  are  asses, 
generally  laden  with  fagots.  There  are  similar 
scenes  in  the  Alps,  but  not  of  greater  boldness ; 
neither  have  they  the  addition  of  the  sea  in  the 
perspective.  After  we  had  completed  the 
passage  of  the  Merdveen,  being  still  at  a  great 


242  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

elevation  above  the  sea,  we  continued  to  skirt 
the  bases  of  rocks  towards  the  east,  until  we 
KutchUckoy.  reached  a  village  called  Kiitchuckoy,  hanging 
upon  a  lofty  declivity  below  the  great  southern 
range  of  perpendicular  precipices.  The  doubtful 
path  to  this  village  is  so  narrow  and  dangerous, 
that  few  would  venture  with  any  other  than  a 
Tahtar  horse ;  and  even  so  provided,  it  is  often 
necessary  to  alight  and  walk. 

Plants  and       The  plants  and  minerals   of  the  south  of  the 

Minerals. 

Crimea  merit  particular  attention.  A  catalogue 
of  all  the  vegetable  productions  collected  by 
us,  whether  in  this  interesting  tract,  or  in  other 
parts  of  our  journey  within  the  Peninsula,  will 
be  found  in  the  Appendix,  being  much  too  nu- 
merous even  for  a  marginal  annotation.  Appro- 
priated solely  to  the  botanical  history  of  the 
Crimea,  it  may  there  serve  as  a  compendious 
Flora  Taurica,  for  the  use  of  other  travellers ; 
and  will  not  interrupt  the  perusal  which  persons 
who  are  not  interested  in  botanical  subjects 
may  bestow  upon  the  narrative  of  these  Travels. 
At  the  same  time,  when  any  opportunity  offers 
of  noticing  a  plant .  not  hitherto  described,  it 
may  be  mentioned  in  the  text  without  too  much 
intrusion.  "With  a  very  superficial  knowledge 
of  Botany,  we  possessed  the  advantage,  not 
only  of  guidance  in  our  researches,  but  of  every 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  ' 

aid  and  contribution  which  the  labour  and  libe- 
rality  of  our  friend  Pallas  could  possibly  afford. 
The  principal  spontaneous  vegetable  production 
of  the  rocks  and  mountains  upon  the  south 
coast,  is  the  wild  sage ;  this,  as  in  the  islands 
of  the  Archipelago,  attains  very  considerable 
size ;  becoming,  in  certain  instances,  tall  enough 
to  rank  as  a  shrub.  Both  the  yellow  and  the 
red  cenlaury  were  also  very  common.  The  Hack 
date-tree,  the  pomegranate,  the  olive,  and  the,^- 
tree,  flourished  along  the  coast,  as  in  the  South 
of  Italy.  With  regard  to  geological  phenomena,  Geol°sy- 
it  may  be  added,  that  the  rocks  and  strata  near 
the  village  of  Kutchuckoy  are  composed  of  trap 
and  schistus,  highly  impregnated  with  iron. 
In  proportion  as  this  metal  is  combined  with 
aluminous  rocks,  a  tendency  to  decomposition, 
owing  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  may  be 
more  or  less  observed.  The  prismatic  configu- 
ration and  fracture  of  trap,  of  basalt,  and  of 
some  other  rocks,  although  evidently  the  result 
of  a  tendency  towards  crystallization  \  may  be 


(I)  Of  this  a  mure  convincing  proof  can  hardly  be  adduced,  than 
that  the  Siberian  emerald,  whose  colouring1  principle  is  iron,  and  whose 
matrix  abounds  in  iron  oxide,  not  only  preserves  the  hexagonal  form 
common  to  the  pillars  of  the  Giant's  Causeway,  but,  when  fresh  dug, 
exhibits  also  the  same  remarkable  alternate  convex  and  concave  hori- 
zontal fissures.  SeePatrin.  Hist.Nat.desMn,  torn.  1I./J.28.  Par.An.$. 
VOL.  II.  R 


244  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,  perhaps  ascribed  to  the  iron  in  their  composition. 
Where  the  oxide  of  iron  is  found  to  be  a  predo- 
minant feature  in  mineral  strata,  veins,  fissures, 
and  separations  of  the  substance,  may  generally 
be  noticed :  and,  vice  versa,  if  the  external 
figure  of  the  mass  in  aluminous  rocks  be  evidently 
prismatic,  there  is  reason  to  apprehend  the  pre- 
sence of  this  metal,  in  a  more  than  usual 
proportion.  These  observations  merit  the  con- 
sideration of  more  scientific  geologists.  In 
addition  to  the  facts  necessary  for  their  con- 
firmation, it  may  be  mentioned,  that  the 
phenomena  of  the  Giant's  Causeway,  upon  the 
north  coast  of  Ireland;  of  the  pillars  of  trap  at 
Hallelerg  and  Hunneberg  in  Sweden,  and  at  the 
Lake  Bohenna  in  Italy,  and  many  other  places ; 
are  only  regular  in  their  prismatic  forms  where 
they  have  been  long  exposed  to  the  action  of 
the  atmosphere.  When  the  exterior  surface  has 
been  thrown  down,  the  interior  of  the  mass 
exhibits  only  an  appearance  of  incipient  de- 
composition. 


itiuns. 


Trans-  The  supposed  transitions,  or  the  passages,  (as 
they  are  termed  by  some  French  and  by  many 
German  mineralogists)  from  one  mineral  species 
to  another,  might  meet  with  at  least  a  semblance 
of  reality  upon  this  coast :  so  insensible  is  the 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  245 

apparent  boundary  between  aluminous  and  sili-  CHAR 
ceous  bodies,  in  some  examples ;  such,  for  in- 
stance, as  the  transition  from  yellow  indurated 
clay  to  jasper ;  and  from  trap  to  hornstone.  In 
the  Museum  at  Tronijem,m  the  north  of  Norway, 
the  Danes  exhibit  what  they  call  a  passage  from 
carbonated  lime  to  silex ;  and  in  Copenhagen,  entire 
collections  have  been  formed  of  similar  ap- 
pearances. The  Norwegian  specimen  is  however 
nothing  more  than  a  flint,  part  whereof  has 
undergone  a  very  high  degree  of  decomposition, 
similar  to  the  substance  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Paris,  called  Pierre  legitre,  and  Quartz 
nectique.  The  French  have  exhibited  such  ap- 
pearances in  the  same  erroneous  point  of  view. 
The  jdbbe  Hauy1,  and  the  celebrated  Chenevix, 
have  derided  the  vulgar  notion  of  transi- 
tions in  the  mineral  kingdom ;  involving  the 
science  in  a  labyrinth  of et  passages,  which  lead  to 
nothing." 

Soon  after  the  capture  of  the  Crimea,  precisely 
at  the  time  of  terrible  earthquakes  in  Hungary 
and  Transylvania,  a  large  portion  of  the  immense 
cliff  above  the  village  of  Kutchuckoy  fell  down, 
and  buried  it.  The  late  Empress  caused  the 
place  to  be  restored  at  her  own  expense, 

(l)  TraitS  de  Min^ralogie,  torn.  III.  p.  242.     Par.  1801. 
R    2 


46  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,    indemnifying  the  inhabitants  at  the  same  time 
for  the  losses  they  had  sustained. 

From  this  village  to  Aloupka,  still  proceeding 
by  a  narrow  undulating  and  devious  track  among 
rocks,  at  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  sea, 
we  enjoyed  a  prospect  of  the  boldest  scenery 
in  the  Crimea.  Immediately  before  us  we 
beheld  the  stupendous  CRIU-METOPOX,  men- 
tioned by  Strabo,  and  by  other  antient  geogra- 
phers :  this,  projecting  into  the  bosom  of  the 
deep,  together  with  the  opposite  promontory  of 
Carambe,  upon  the  coast  of  Paphlagonia,  divides 
the  Black  Sea  into  two  parts  ;  so  that  mariners 
sailing  between  the  two  capes  may  descry  land 
on  either  side.  The  antient  anonymous  geogra- 
pher, whose  writings  were  chiefly  extracted 
from  Arrian  and  from  Scymnus  Chius,  relates  that 
Iphigenia,  carried  from  Aulis,  came  to  this 
country1.  Procopius*,  speaking  of  Taurica  Cher- 
sonesus,  also  mentions  the  Temple  of  Diana, 
where  Iphigenia,  daughter  of  Agamemnon,  was 
priestess :  according  to  him,  the  Tauri  were 
her  votaries.  It  is  worthy  of  note,  as  will  here- 
after appear,  that  a  promontory  and  village, 
bearing  at  this  day  the  name  of  Parthenit,  evi- 
dently corrupted  from  Parthenium,  is  found  to 

(1)  Geogr.  Aiitiq.  ed.  Gronov.     L.Bat.  1697.  p.  144. 

(2)  Procop.  de  Bell.  Goth.  lib.  iv.'C.  5. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  247 

the  eastward  of  the  Crm-metopvn>  in  the  vicinity  CHAP. 
ofjlloupka.  Thus,  while  Strabo  and  Ovid  place 
the  Promontory  of  Parthenium  in  the  Heracleotic 
Chersonesus,  other  circumstances  seem  to  fix  its 
situation  near  the  most  southern  point  of  the 
Crimea :  and  should  this  be  admitted,  it  would 
only  assign,  as  in  the  history  of  other  popular 
superstitions,  a  difference  of  locality  to  the  same 
rites.  Leucate,  in  the  Ionian  Sea,  is  not  the  only 
promontory  celebrated  for  the  story  of  the 
Lovers  Leap. 

As  we  advanced,  the  wide  prospect  of  the 
Black  Sea  extended  below  upon  our  right.  To- 
wards our  left,  towering  to  the  clouds,  and 
sometimes  capped  by  them,  appeared  lofty 
naked  precipices,  here  projecting  in  vast  pro- 
montories, there  receding,  and  forming  bays,  sur- 
rounded by  craggy  rocks,  whose  sloping  sides 
resemble  those  immense  theatres  of  Antient 
Greece,  prepared  more  by  Nature  than  by 
the  art  of  man3.  The  upper  strata  of  these 
mountains,  notwithstanding  their  prodigious 
elevation,  are  all  of  limestone.  Not  a  single 
fragment  of  granite  is  any  where  to  be  seen. 


(3)  The  antieiit  theatres  of  Greece  sometimes  consisted  of  an  entire 
mountain,  to  whose  natural  form  seats  were  adjusted.  Of  this 
description  is  the  theatre  at  the  Hieron,  in  Epidaurin;  at  Telme$sust 
in  the  Gulph  of  Glaucus-;  and  at  CInEronea,  in  Jteotia. 


248  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP.    Beneath  the  precipices,    and  extending  to  the 

* 

water's  edge,  appears  a  bold  and  broken  de- 
clivity, covered  with  villages,  gardens,  woods, 
and  cultivated  spots.  Laurels  flourished  in 
several  places ;  and  these  were  formerly  more 
abundant,  but  the  Tahtars  have  destroyed 
many  of  them,  believing  that  strangers  came 
only  to  see  these  trees,  and  dreading  a  visit 
from  the  Russians. 


In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Aloupka.  The 
inhabitants  flocked  to  visit  us,  and  overwhelmed 
us  with  their  hospitality.  Each  person  entering 
our  little  chamber  deposited  his  offering ;  either 
of  fresh  filberts,  walnuts,  mulberries,  figs,  pears, 
or  other  fruit.  "  Brandy,"  they  said,  "  they  could 
not  offer  us :  abstaining  from  its  use,  they  had 
it  not."  Less  addicted  to  opium  than  the  Turks, 
they  are  less  slothful :  yet  they  deem  it  their 
greatest  happiness  to  sit  still,  to  smoke,  or  to 
sleep;  having  nothing  to  employ  their  thoughts, 
and  as  little  as  possible  to  do.  They  sow  only 
as  much  corn  as  may  be  necessary  for  their 
own  consumption.  Their  pipes  and  their  horses 
are,  perhaps,  objects  of  as  great  affection  as 
their  wives.  We  found  them  usually  stretched 
upon  the  flat  roofs  of  their  cottages,  lying  upon 
thick  mats,  beneath  the  shade  of  their  favourite 
trees,  either  asleep,  or  inhaling  fumes  of  tobacco. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  249 

The  business  of  the  harvest  had,  however, 
aroused  some  of  them  into  a  state  of  activity. 
As  we  continued  our  journey,  we  found  them 
occupied  in  collecting  it.  They  beat  out  their 
corn  as  soon  as  it  is  gathered.  Their  mode 
may  rather  be  called  trampling  than  thrashing. 
After  selecting  an  even  spot  of  ground,  they  fix 
a  pole  or  a  stake  into  the  earth,  placing  the  corn 
in  a  circle  around  it,  so  as  to  form  a  circum- 
ference of  about  eight  or  nine  yards  in  diameter : 
they  then  attach  a  horse  by  a  long  cord  to  the 
pole,  and  continue  driving  him  round  and  round 
upon  the  corn,  until  the  cord  is  wound  upon  the 
pole ;  after  this,  turning  his  head  in  an  opposite 
direction,  he  is  again  set  going,  until  the  cord 
be  untwisted.  By  this  process  they  do  not 
fail  to  obtain  the  whole  of  the  corn  clean  from 
the  sheaf;  but  the  straw  is  destroyed.  The 
chaff  is  afterwards  collected,  and  carefully 
housed  for  fodder.  They  carry  their  corn  upon 
horses ;  but  their  manner  of  reaping  and  mowing, 
and  of  forming  enclosures,  resembles  our  own. 

The  approach  to^loupka,  a  village  beautifully 
situate  near  the  shore,  is  entirely  concealed 
from  view,  by  groves  of  fruit-trees.  The 
scenery,  everywhere  along  the  coast,  will 
admit  of  no  comparison  with  any  other  maritime 
district.  Such  fertility  and  rural  beauty  are, 


250  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,  perhaps,  no-where  else  situate  equally  near 
to  the  waters  of  any  sear  nor  so  surrounded  by 
grand  objects.  The  descent  towards  the  shore 
is  so  steep  and  rapid,  that  it  seems  as  if  the 
villages,  with  their  groves  and  gardens,  might 
be  swept,  by  heavy  rains,  into  the  deep:  at 
the  same  time,  cliffs,  hanging  over  them,  me- 
nace fearful  ruin,  by  the  fall  of  rocks,  which 
every  now  and  then  break  loose  :  their  enor- 
mous fragments  have  occasionally  halted  in  situ- 
ations where  they  appear  at  every  instant  ready 
to  rush  forward.  High  above  all  are  the  lofty 
and  rugged  summits  of  the  mountains,  giving 
such  a  remarkable  character  to  the  southern 
coast  of  the  Crimea,  that  no  geographer  has 
neglected  to  notice  them.  Stralo  forcibly  de- 
scribes their  situation  and  their  nature  ' :  "  But 
from  this  port  of  the  Symboli,"  says  he,  "  unto 
the  city  of  Theodosia,  extends  the  maritime  Tau- 
rican  district,  about  one  thousand  stadia  in  length, 
craggy  and  mountainous,  and  teeming  with 
storms."  If,  in  consequence  of  some  tremen- 
dous earthquake,  or  of  a  sudden  thaw,  a  por- 
tion of  these  cliffs  has  been  separated  from  its 
native  bed,  and,  rushing  into  the  Black  Sea,  has 


(l)    Mi  TO  3s  T£»  5y^/3aXa>v  \tfjLiia.  vturet  (ti%pi   Qio^offias  foKlus  n  T&vputn 


ycv  grciuv  rn  y.riKo;,  rpetgia  KO.I  sf.trn,  xeci 
fiiii  TlpjTitt.     Strab.   lib.  vii.  p.  416.   cd.Oxon. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  152 

formed  a  promontory,  or  towering  bulwark  in  CHAP. 
the  midst  of  the  waves,  its  summit  has  been  T:  _• 
almost  invariably  covered  by  some  antient 
fortress ;  the  ruins  of  which  still  remain,  in 
places  almost  inaccessible.  These  works  are 
principally  attributed  to  the  Genoese ;  "although 
some  of  them  be  of  Grecian  origin.  The  har- 
dihood and  the  enterprise  visible  in  their  con- 
struction cannot  fail  to  astonish  the  traveller, 
as  there  seems  to  be  no  precipice  too  lofty  or 
too  dangerous  for  the  people  by  whom  they 
were  erected. 

On    Wednesday,   August    the   sixth,    we    left  other  vn- 

*.  .  f.  .  i  lages  on 

jiloupka.  After  journeying  in  groves,  where  SeCo**. 
mulberry-trees,  shading  our  road,  presented 
the  largest  and  most  delicious  fruit,  we  arrived 
at  the  village  of  Musghor.  Here  we  found  a 
few  Greeks,  established  as  part  of  a  cordon 
guarding  the  southern  part  of  the  Peninsula  : 
they  were  busied  distilling  brandy  from  mul- 
berries, a  weak  but  palatable  spirit,  clear 
as  water.  The  scenery,  rather  improved  in 
beauty,  became  yet  bolder  than  before,  as 
we  drew  near  to  a  place  called  Derykeuy, 
inhabited  by  a  small  Greek  colony,  close  to 
the  shore.  We  found  the  people  employed  in 
shipping  timber  of  bad  quality  for  Sudak,  and 
for  other  ports  lying  eastward.  Upon  the 


252  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

beach  were  some  hulks  of  Turkish  vessels,  quite 
rotten ;  yet  in  such  frail  barks  do  they  venture 
across  the  Black  Sea  to  Constantinople ;  although, 
as  our  interpreter  observed,  "  it  would  be 
indiscreet  to  risk  even  a  letter  by  such  con- 
veyance." Their  appearance  convinced  us  that 
the  frequent  shipwrecks  in  the  Black  Sea  are 
owing,  in  great  measure,  to  the  wretched  con- 
dition of  the  Turkish  vessels. 


Country         If  there  exist  upon  earth  a  terrestrial  para- 

between          ....  ,,  . 

Kutchuc-  dise,  it  is  to  be  found  in  the  district  intervening 
Sudaic.  between  Kutchuckoy  and  Sudak,  along  the  south 
coast  of  the  Crimea l.  Protected  by  encircling 
Alps  from  every  cold  and  blighting  wind,  and 
only  open  to  those  breezes  which  are  wafted  from 
the  south,  the  inhabitants  enjoy  every  advantage 
of  climate  and  of  situation.  Continual  streams  of 


(l)  "  Kutchuk-ko'i  is  a  village  on  the  most  southern  point  of  the 
Crimea;  and  is  so  called  to  distinguish  it  from  another  JToz,  Deryk-koi, 
which  stands  on  the  hill  above  Iliulta.  Near  Deryk-ko'i  is  the  fountain 
represented  in  my  drawing ;  it  lies  in  the  highway  between  Nikita 
Burun  and  Deryk-ko'i.  Hialta,  a  miserable  village  of  Greeks,  with  a 
small  Greek  church,  lies  to  the  left ;  and  beyond  Deryk-koi,  in  the 
way  which  branches  off  to  Baktcheserai,  is  a  village  of  Russians, 
belonging,  I  believe,  to  Admiral  Mordvinof. —  Above  Kutchuk-ko'i, 
the  rocks  become  much  more  perpendicular  and  naked ;  and  if  this 
be  the  Criu-metopon,  the  name  may  have  been  derived  from  their  high 
and  bold  forehead.  It  is  evident  from  Strabo,  that  this  famous  pro- 
montory was  eastward  of  the  2tye/3aA.«v  x/^v,  which  I  suppose  is  Bala- 
clava ;  and  therefore  we  have  only  Kutchuk-ko'i  and  Ayoudagh  to 
choose  between."  llnber's  MS.  Journal. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  253 

crystal  water  pour  down  from  the  mountains  CHAP. 
upon  their  gardens,  where  every  species  of 
fruit  known  in  the  rest  of  Europe,  and  many 
that  are  not,  attain  the  highest  perfection. 
Neither  unwholesome  exhalations,  nor  chilling 
winds,  nor  venomous  insects,  nor  poisonous 
reptiles,  nor  hostile  neighbours,  infest  their 
blissful  territory.  The  life  of  its  inhabitants 
resembles  that  of  the  Golden  Age.  The  soil, 
like  a  hot-bed,  rapidly  puts  forth  such  variety 
of  spontaneous  produce,  that  labour  becomes 
merely  an  amusing  exercise.  Peace  and  plenty 
crown  their  board ;  while  the  repose  they  so 
much  admire  is  only  interrupted  by  harmless 
thunder  reverberating  in  rocks  above  them,  or 
by  the  murmur  of  the  waves  upon  the  beach 
below. 

At  Derykeiiy,  the  Tahtar  children  were  assem-  T,,ktar 
bled  in  the  school  of  the  village,  learning  to 
read.  The  eldest  boy  led  the  way,  pronouncing 
the  lesson  distinctly  in  a  loud  tone,  from  a 
manuscript  copy  of  the  Koran.  The  rest,  to 
the  number  of  twenty,  were  squatted,  according 
to  the  Tahtar  custom,  upon  little  low  benches, 
accompanying  the  leader  with  their  voices, 
and  keeping  time  by  nodding  their  heads.  It 
was  amusing  to  observe  the  readiness  of  their 
little  president  to  detect  any  of  them  in  error, 


254  :  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP.  in  the  midst  of  all  the  noise  they  made,  although 
'  reading  himself  with  the  utmost  effort  of  his 
lungs.  In  the  south  of  the  Crimea,  the  remains  of 
the  Genoese  language  are  not  quite  extinct.  Now 
and  then  an  expression  escapes  even  the  lips  of 
a  Tahtar,  evidently  derived  from  that  people. 
During  their  long  residence  in  the  Crimea,  the 
Genoese  not  only  introduced  many  of  their  own 
terms  to  the  native  language  of  the  Peninsula^ 
but  they  also  incorporated  many  Tahtar  and 
Greek  expressions  with  the  Italian;  and  these 
are  still  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  Genoa.  We 
collected  several  examples  of  this  nature,  and 
Professor  Pallas  added  to  the  list.  As  he  has 
already  alluded  to  the  subject  in  his  late  work  ', 
it  will  be  unnecessary  to  mention  more  than 
two  or  three  instances.  In  the  Takiar  language, 
kardasch  signifies  a  '  brother'  or  a  '  dear  friend ;' 
and  the  word  cardasda  is  now  used  with 
the  same  interpretation  at  Genoa;  macrame,  a 
'  towel,'  in  Tahtar,  is  macrami  in  Genoese ; 
barba,  '  uncle,'  in  Tahtar,  is  exactly  so  pro- 
nounced, and  with  the  same  signification,  in 
Genoa.  Again;  mangia,  '  to  eat/  among  the 
Genoese,  is  also  mangia  with  the  Tahtar s;  savun, 
'  soap,'  is  sabun  in  the  Crimea ;  fortunna,  a  *  sea- 
storm,'  fortuna;  with  many  other  examples 

(I)  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  357. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  255 

where  the  affinity  is  less  striking.  The  most 
remarkable  instance  is,  that  bari,  signifying  a 
'  cask,'  or  '  barrel/  in  Genoa,  is  pronounced  by 
the  Tahtars,  baril ;  bringing  it  very  near  to  our 
English  name  for  the  same  thing.  The  Tahtars, 
moreover,  call  a  barber,  lerber ;  and  this  they 
may  have  derived  from  the  Genoese  word 
barbe*. 

The  unusual  swarm  of  locusts  which  have 
infested  the  Crimea,  of  late  years,  has  been 
already  noticed.  They  have  destroyed  all  the 
vineyards  of  the  new  settlers;  but  the  Tahtars 
who  cultivate  the  vine  only  for  the  pleasure  of 
eating  its  fruit,  disregard  their  coming,  although 
it  proves  so  mournful  a  scourge  to  the  natives 
of  other  countries  having  establishments  upon 
the  coast.  Soon  after  leaving  Derykeliy,  we 
arrived  at  the  ruins  of  an  old  monastery, 


(2)  The  fact  is,  that  both  the  English  language  and  the  lan- 
guage introduced  by  Genoese  Colonies  into  the  Crimea  were  derived 
from  the  same  source,  the  old  German.  It  came  into  England 
A.  D.  440.  It  was  carried  into  Italy  by  the  Heruli,  West  Gotlis* 
Vnndals,  and  Lombards,  whence  it  found  its  way  even  to  the 
Crimea,  by  means  of  Genoese  colonists.  (See  Cam-Men's  Remains. 
Lnnd.  1657.)  Busbequius  examined  a  Tahtar  who  arrived  in  Constant 
tinople  from  the  Crimea,  and  he  discovered  that  the  inhabitants  of 
that  country  had  many  words  in  their  language  which  were  common 
to  the  Flemings ;  as  broe,  bread ;  hits,  a  house ;  bruder,  brother ; 
tilvir,  silver  ;  salt,  salt ;  sune,  the  sun  ;  apcl,  an  apple  ;  kommen,  to 
come;  singhen,  to  sing,  &c.  They  also  numbered  in  the  following1 
inauncr  :  Ita,  tua,  tria,  fyd&tfjwft  seist  sevenct  $c. 


256  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,    delightfully  situate  upon  the  side  of  mountains 
sloping  towards  the  sea,  with  a  rapid  rivulet  of 
the  purest  crystal   water  flowing  close  to  its 
walls.     All   that  now  remains  of  the   original 
building  is  a  small  chapel,  containing  images  of 
the  Saints,  painted  upon  stucco,  although  nearly 
effaced.     Here  the  author's  unfortunate  friend 
and   his   predecessor  in  this  journey,  the  late 
Mr.   John   Tweddell,  of   Trinity    College,     Cam- 
bridge1, had  left  the  tributary  offering   of  his 
Athenian  Muse  to  the  Genius  of  the  place,  in 
some  Greek  verses  which  he  had  written  with  a 
pencil  upon  the  wall,  and  subscribed  with  his 
name.     Mr.  Reginald  Heber,   in   a  subsequent 
visit,  struck  by  the   grandeur  of  the  situation, 
delineated  a  view  of  the  place 2.   Among  the  trees, 
at  the  time  we  arrived,  were  the  pomegranate 
in  full  bloom,  the  spreading  mulberry,  thewildvine, 
creeping  over  oaks,  maples,  and  cornelian  cherry- 
trees,  and  principally  the  tall  black  poplar,  every- 
where  towering   among  rocks,    above  all  the 
shrubs,   and  adding  considerably  to  the  dignity 
and  the  graceful  elegance  of  this  fine  scene 3. 


(1)  Now  buried  in  the  Temple  of  Ttescus  at  Athens. 

(2)  See  also  the  Note  to  p.  252. 

<3)  "  The  forests  in  this  tract  are  not  of  a  very  lofty  growth:  firs, 
however,  aud  some  oaks,  are  found,  and  magnificent  walnut-trees. 
The  Tahtars  in  the  spring,  when  the  sap  is  rising,  pierce  the  walnut- 
tree*,  and  put  in  a  spig-ot  for  some  time.  When  this  is  withdrawn, 

a  clear 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  257 

The  tertian  fever,  caught  among  the  caverns  CHAP. 
of  Inkerman,  had  rendered  the  author  so  weak 
after  leaving  this  beautiful  spot,  that  it  was 
with  the  greatest  difficulty  he  could  sit  upon 
his  horse.  One  of  its  violent  paroxysms  coming 
on  afterwards  at  Yourztif,  he  remained  for 
some  time  extended  upon  the  bare  earth,  in  the 
principal  street  of  the  village.  Its  peaceful  and 
hospitable  inhabitants  regarded  him  as  a  victim 
of  the  plague,  and,  of  course,  were  prevented 
from  offering  the  succour  they  would  otherwise 
gladly  have  bestowed.  His  companions  were 
far  advanced  upon  the  journey;  for  they  be- 
lieved him  to  be  employed  collecting  plants. 
When,  towards  evening,  they  returned  in  search 
of  him,  the  interpreter  persuaded  an  old  wo,man 
to  allow  him  a  hovel  for  the  night's  acco'mmoda- 
tion ;  and  having  also  begged  a  small  piece  of 
opium  in  the  village,  he  was  soon  rendered  in- 
sensible of  the  wretchedness  of  his  situation. 

Being   unable   to    continue    his   journey   on 
horseback,  a  bargain  was  concluded  the  next 


a  clear  sweet  liquor  flows  out,  which,  when  coagulated,  they  use  as 
sugar.  In  different  places  we  saw  a  few  cypress-trees,  growing  in  the 
burial-grounds  :  they  were  pointed  out  to  us  as  rarities,  and  brought 
from  Stamboul.  On  the  plains  above  the  sea-coast  are  soraefine  olive- 
trees.  Lombardy-poplars  abound  everywhere,  and  are  very  beau- 
tiful." Meier's  MS.  Journal. 


058  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,    day  with  the  master  of  a  Turkish  boat,  laden 
l    .  with  timber,  and  bound  to  Sudak1,  for  his  passage 
to  Alusta.   Mr.  Cripps,  with  the  rest  of  the  party, 
continued  the  tour  of  the  coast  as  before. 

Yourzuf,  called  Yourzova  by  the  Russians, 
is  the  Gorzubitai  of  Procopius.  The  fortress, 
built  by  Justinian,  still  remains,  although  in 
ruins,  upon  the  high  rocks  above  the  beautiful 
little  bay  of  the  town.  As  soon  as  the  vessel 
had  cleared  the  Bay  of  Yourziif,  an  immense 
to!/!"0  promontory  appeared  towards  the  east:  this  it 
was  necessary  to  double;  and,  having  so  done* 
we  discerned  the  whole  coast  eastward  as  far 
as  Sudak  * :  our  mariners  pointed  to  the  place, 
as  then  within  view,  although  barely  visible. 
The  lofty  promontory  we  had  passed  is  called, 
by  the  Tahtars,  AI'VDAGH,  or  Holy  Mountain9. 
Mr.  Crippss  route  along  the  shore  led  him 
directly  over  it :  he  observed  upon  the  summit 
the  remains  of  an  antient  monastery  :  this  may 

(1)  See  the  Extract  from  Mr.Heber'n  MS.  Journal,  in  p.  127  of  this 
volume. 

(2)  The  original  name  of  this  place  seems  preserved  in  the  Periplns 
of  Scylax  Caryandensis,  in  the  word  KTAAIA.     Vid.  p.  71.  ed.  Gronpv. 
L.  Sat.  1697.     Vossius  reads  KTTAIA. 

(3)  Mr.  Heber,  in  Note  (5),  affords  a  different  interpretation  to  this 
name.     The  author  is  induced  to   consider  the   epithet  AI,  AIA,   or 
AIOM,  as  used  to  denote  sanctity.     Hence  the  appellation  AI-  or  AGIA- 
BVRVN ;  as,   among  the  Modern    Greeks,    AriON-OPOS  is   a   name 
given  to  Mount  Alhos. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  259 

have  stood  upon  the  site  of  one  of  those  tern- 
pies  formerly  dedicated  to  the  Taurican Diana ; 
as  the  village,  to  which  he  descended  imme- 
diately afterwards,  still  retains,  in  the  name 
Partenak,  or  Parthenit,  an  evident  etymology  of  Parthenit. 
PARTHENIUM.  A  few  years  ago,  four  columns, 
two  of  green  and  two  others  of  white  marble, 
were  found  lying  upon  the  site  of  that  monastery, 
and  among  its  ruins4.  Prince  Poiemkin  re- 
moved two  of  them,  to  decorate  a  church  then 
building  in  or  near  Cher  son.  When  Mr.  Cripps 
arrived,  he  found  only  one  column  remaining,  of 
white  marble,  near  twelve  feet  in  length,  and 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  Stretching  out 
somewhat  farther  from  the  shore,  we  obtained 
a  fine  view,  east  and  west,  of  the  whole  coast 
of  the  Crimea,  from  the  Criu-metopon  to  Sudak. 
Mr.  Cripps,  being  then  upon  the  heights,  en- 
joyed a  prospect  still  more  extensive,  and  beheld 
our  little  bark,  like  a  speck  upon  the  waves. 
He  halted  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  according 
to  the  custom  usually  observed  among  the 
Tahtars  in  travelling,  at  a  place  called  Lambat, 
the  Lampas 5  of  the  Antients;  and  in  the  evening, 


(4)  The  monastery  was  dedicated  to  St.  Constantine  and  St.  Helen. 
See  Pallas' 's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  179. 

(5)  "  Lambat  is  situate  amidst  some  of  the  grandest  scenery  in 
the  Crimea ;  having  Chatyr  Dag  on  the  right,  and  in  front  a  beautiful 
promontory  called  Ayoudagh,  or  Bear  Hill:  this  is  connected  with  the 

VOL.  II.  S  ™"Se 


260  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

a  little  before  sun-set,  he  arrived  at  Almta,  as 
our  boatmen  were  anchoring  near  the  shore. 

Tchetir-  From  this  place  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
Mm*  Tra-  mountain  called  Tchetirdagh,  the  TRAPEZUS  of 
Stralo,  whose  lofty  summit  appeared  above  a 
range  of  clouds,  veiling  all  the  lower  part.  Its 
perpendicular  height  does  not  exceed  thirteen 
hundred  feet  * ;  but  it  rises  so  rapidly  from  the 
coast  about  Alusta,  that  its  seeming  elevation  is 
much  greater.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  Crimea 
may  be  seen  from  its  summit  in  clear  weather. 
The  Tahtars  affirm,  that  a  great  portion  of  the 
steppes  beyond  the  Isthmus  of  Perecop  may  be 


range  of  Chatyr  Dag,  by  a  rocky  isthmus,  covered  with  wood,  and  is 

itself  peninsular ;  resembling,  though   on   a  grander  scale,    Orme's 

Head  in  Caernarvonshire.     At  the  foot  of  the  isthmus,  in  a  beautiful 

wood  of  walnut-trees,  stands  Partenak,  a  village  with  a  good  harbour 

for  small  vessels,  formed  by  a  high  rocky  island.     Here  we  found  an  old 

Tahtar,  who  was  in  great  practice  as  a  boat-builder  ;  and  had,  with  his 

own  hands,  and  the  assistance  of  his  two  sons,  just  finished  a  beautiful 

schooner  of  thirty  tons,  for  a  merchant  at  Caffa.     The  usual  vessels  of 

the  country  are  like  the  Turkish,  with  lateen  sails,  and  high  prows  and 

poops,  very  much  curved.     I  was  so  much  struck  with  Ayoudagh,  that 

I  could  not  help  fancying  that  it  was  the  Criil-metopon  of  Strabo.     A 

steep  and   narrow  path  leads  over  the   neck  of  the    mountain  from 

Partenak.     From  the   summit   we   saw,   as   we  fancied,  and  as   the 

Tahtars  assured  us,  the  whole  way  from  Kutchuk-kof  to  the  Bosphorus. 

The  people  of  Lambat   complained  that  they  were  not  allowed  to  cut 

down  nor  sell  their  timber.     I  never  could  learn  the  reason  of  this 

restriction.     In   the   neighbourhood   of  Aktiar  not  even  a  shrub  had 

been  left  for  miles."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 

(1)  Pallas  states  it  as  about  1200.     See  Travels,  vol.  11.  p.  193. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  261 

discerned  from  this  mountain.  There  is  cer- 
tainly nothing  to.  intercept  the  view,  as  far  as 
human  sight  can  possibly  extend ;  because  the 
whole  district  to  the  north  is  as  flat  as  the  rest 
of  the  great  eastern  plain.  The  village  of 
Alusta,  once  a  place  of  considerable  importance, 
still  exhibits  some  vestiges  of  its  antient  dig- 
nity. The  ruins  of  the  citadel — erected,  toge- 
ther with  the  fortress  of  Yourzufy  by  Justinian, 
according  to  Procopius — are  still  seen,  upon  pre- 
cipices contiguous  to  the  sea2.  Three  of  its 
towers  remain,  and  a  stone  wall,  twelve  feet  in 
height,  and  near  seven  feet  in  thickness.  At  pre- 
sent, the  place  consists  only  of  a  few  Tahtar  huts : 
in  one  of  these  we  passed  the  night;  having 
observed  nothing  remarkable,  excepting  a  very 
small  breed  of  buffaloes ;  the  females  being 
little  larger  than  our  market  calves. 

At  AlustavtQ  terminated  our  journey  along  the 
coast ;  and  on  Friday  morning,  August  the  eighth, 
we  set  out,  by  a  route  across  the  Tchetirdagh,  for 
Altmetchet.  We  rode  for  some  time  in  the  Dale 
ofAlusta,  a  delightful  valley,  full  of  apple,  pear, 
plum,  and  pomegranate  trees,  with  vineyards 


(2)  "  Somewhere  between  Sudak  and  Lambat  (Lampas)  is  a  rock, 
believed,  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  ship,  to  have  been  a  vessel 
which,  with  its  crew,  was  turned  into  stone."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 

s  2 


262  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

and  olive  grounds ;  and,  beginning  to  ascend  the 
mountain,  arrived  at  the  village  of  Shuma.  Here 
the  Tahtars  brought  for  our  breakfast  the  enor- 
mous kind  of  cucumber  which  was  before  men- 
tioned :  the  seed  of  it,  since  brought  to  England, 
has  not  thrived  in  our  country.  The  fruit  is  as 
white  as  snow,  and,  notwithstanding  the  pro- 
digious size  and  length  it  attains,  has  all  the 
crispness  and  fresh  flavour  peculiar  to  a  young 
cucumber.  It  would  become  a  valuable  plant 
for  the  poor,  if  it  were  possible  to  naturalize  it 
in  other  parts  of  Europe.  This,  and  other  va- 
rieties of  the  same  vegetable,  together  with 
many  different  kinds  of  melons,  and  the  Cucurbita 
pepo,  or  pumpkin,  cover  the  borders  of  a  Taht'ar 
garden.  The  custom  of  boiling,  for  their  meals, 
the  tendrils  and  young  fruit  of  the  pumpkin, 
is  common  not  only  in  the  Crimea,  but  over  all 
the  Turkish  empire.  We  were  often  treated  with 
this  vegetable,  and  found  it  very  palatable. 

The  weak  state  of  the  author's  health  would 
not  allow  him  to  ascend  the  summit  of  the 
Tcketirdagh ;  but  Mr.  Cripps  left  him  at  Shuma, 
for  that  purpose.  The  common  road  conducted 
him  along  the  western  side  of  the  mountain,  and, 
after  all,  at  no  great  distance  from  its  summit; 
as  his  companion,  having  gained  the  highest 
point,  called  to  him,  and  was  distinctly  heard. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE.  CRIMEA.  ^  263 

Mr.  Cripps  collected  some  rare  plants ' ;  and  con-    CHAP. 
firmed,  by  his  actual  observation,  what  has  been 
before  related  concerning  the  mountains  of  the 
Crimea;  that  they  skirt  only  the  southern  coast 
of  the  Peninsula,  beginning  at  Cciffa,  and  ex- 
tending as  far  as  Balaclava.    The  town  of  4kmet- 
chet  appeared  to  Mr.  Cripps,  from  the  summit  of 
the  mountain,  as  if  it  were  immediately  beneath 
his  view:  towards  the  north,  the  whole  territory 
exhibited  an  uninterrupted  plain.     On  the  west, 
the  chain  of  mountains  seemed  to  terminate  at 
Bahtcheserai ;  so  that  a  geographical  line  may  be 
traced  for  a  map  of  the  Crimea,  from  Caffa  to 
Stara  Crim;   thence,  south  of  Karasubazar,  on 
to  dhmctchet,  and  to  Baktcheserai.     To  the  north 
of  this  line,  the  whole  territory,  not  only  of  the 
Crimea,   but  beyond  the  Isthmus,  over  all  the 
Ukraine,  is  one  vast  campaign,  consisting  of  a 
calcareous  deposit,   containing  the  remains  of 
marine  animals.     All  the  higher  parts  of  the 
Tchetirdagh  exhibit  a  mass  of  limestone,  very 
compact,   and  of  a  grey  colour.     Pallas  says, 
that,  upon  friction,  it  is  slightly  fetid ;  a  character 
that  we  neglected  to  notice.     The  mountain 
probably  received  its  antient  name  of  Trapezus 
from  the  table-form  of  its  summit.     Its  lower 
district  is  covered  by  groves,  which  are  impene- 

(l)  See  the  Appendix,  No.  IV. 


264         SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

trable  to  the  rays  of  the  sun.    The  only  blossom 
seen  decking  the  soil  was  the  Colchicum  Autum- 
nale,  or  Common  Meadow-saffron.     Through  these 
groves  the  author  continued  to  skirt  the  whole 
of  its  western  side,  until  he  came  out  upon  a  spa- 
cious table  of  naked  limestone  towards  the  north; 
beneath  a  frightful  precipice  of  the  same  nature, 
upon  whose  summit  he  could  plainly  discern  his 
companion  with  the  guides.     He  was  however 
sufficiently  elevated  to  look  down,  from  this  spot, 
upon  the  summits  of  almost  all  the  neighbouring 
mountains,  which  appeared  below  him,  covered 
with  wood.    In  the  fertile  valleys  between  these 
mountains  were  corn  and  pasture  lands.     So 
fertile  are  those  valleys,  that  single  ears  of  wild 
barley,  and  wild  rye,  are  seen  growing  in  many 
situations.     After  two  hours  of  continual  descent 
from  this  spot,  he  arrived  at  the  village  of  Dery- 
keily.      Hither  Professor   Pallas  had    sent   his 
carriage,  in  order  to  conduct  the  party  once 
more  to  his  comfortable  and  most  hospitable 
mansion  in  Akmetchet. 


About  two  miles  from  Deryketiy,  a  Turkish 
no^leman,  at  a  village  called  Mahmoud  Sultan, 
sent  to  request  that  we  would  visit  his  house 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Salgir.  He  came  out  to 
meet  us,  attended  by  his  dragoman  and  other 
menials,  as  Turks  always  are,  and  invited  us  to 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  2C5 

return  with  him,  and  drink  coffee.  Every  thing 
around  his  dwelling,  placed  in  the  midst  of 
gardens,  had  an  air  of  peace  and  repose.  A 
marten  had  built  its  nest  within  his  chamber ; 
and  he  had  made  holes  in  the  window,  for  this 
bird  to  pass,  in  search  of  food  for  its  young. 
This  practice  is  not  uncommon  in  the  cottages 
of  the  Tahtars,  who  regard  a  visit  from  the 
marten  as  a  favourable  omen.  The  same  super- 
stition may  also  be  observed  in  different  parts 
of  Turkey ;  and  its  prevalence  among  the  lower 
order  of  people  in  England  is  well  known1. 
Upon  the  tombs  both  of  Turks  and  Armenians 
are  often  seen  two  little  cavities,  scooped  in  the 
stone  by  the  relations  of  the  deceased,  and,  by 
them,  continually  supplied  with  water;  consi- 
dering it  a  good  omen  for  the  souls  of  deceased 
persons,  that  birds  should  come  and  drink  upon 
their  graves.  Such  Armenian  tomb-stones, 
beautifully  wrought  in  white  marble,  and  covered 
with  inscriptions,  may  now  be  considered  almost 
as  antiquities  of  the  Crimea.  They  bear  very 


(1)  •  "  This  guest  of  summer, 

The  temple-haunting  martlet,  does  approve, 

By  his  lov'd  mansionry,  that  the  heaven's  breath 

Smells  wooingly  here  :  no  jutty,  frieze,  buttress, 

Nor  coigne  of  vantage,  but  this  bird  hath  made    s 

His  pendent  bed,  and  procreant  cradle.    Where  they 

Most  breed  and  haunt,  I  have,  observ'd,  the  air 

Is  delicate."——  Shakspeare,  Macb.  A.\.  S.  6. 


26G  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,  early  dates;  and,  like  others  seen  in  Turkey, 
y  >'  '  express,  by  sculptured  symbols,  the  former 
occupation  of  those  whose  memorials  they 
record.  Thus,  for  a  money-changer,  they  exhibit, 
in  sculpture,  the  sort  of  shovel  used  by  bankers ; 
for  a  tailor,  a  pair  of  shears;  or  for  a  gardener, 
a  spade. 

Return  to       \ye  arrived  at  dkmetchet  as  Professor  Pallas 

Akmetcliet. 

was  preparing  to  celebrate  the  marriage  of  his 
daughter,  according  to  the  rites  of  the  Greek 
Church,  with  Baron  Wimfeld,  an  Hungarian 
General  in  the  Russian  service.  The  wedding 
took  place  on  the  following  day,  Saturday, 
n  August  the  ninth,  after  a  superb  dinner.  We 
***  accompanied  the  parties  to  church.  At  the 
door  they  were  met  by  the  priest.  The  General 
was  asked,  whether  he  were  already  related  to 
the  lady  by  any  tie  of  blood :  upon  his  an- 
swering in  the  negative,  a  similar  question  was 
put  to  the  intended  bride,  and  by  her  also 
answered  in  the  same  way.  They  were  then 
asked,  whether  the  engagement  were  voluntary 
on  their  part ;  and  having  replied  in  the  affir- 
mative, they  entered  a  few  paces  within  the 
church.  A  Bible  and  a  crucifix  were  then  placed 
before  them,  and  large  lighted  wax-tapers, 
decorated  with  ribbons,  in  their  hands.  After 
certain  prayers  had  been  read,  and  the  ring 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  267 

had  been  placed  upon  the  bride's  finger,  the 
floor  was  covered  by  a  piece  of  scarlet  satin, 
and  a  table  was  placed  before  them,  with  the 
communion  vessels.  The  priest  having  bound 
their  hands  together  with  ribbons  of  the  same 
coloured  satin,  and  placed  chaplets  of  flowers 
upon  their  heads,  administered  the  Sacrament : 
afterwards  he  led  them,  thus  united,  three 
times  around  the  communion-table,  followed  by 
the  bride's  father  and  the  bride-maid.  During 
this  ceremony  the  choristers  chaunted  a  hymn. 
After  the  hymn  was  concluded,  the  parties 
returned  to  the  house  of  the  bride's  father: 
here  tea,  and  other  refreshments,  were  served 
to  all  who  came  to  congratulate  the  married 
couple. 

We  remained  a  month  at  Akmetchet  after 
our  return  from  the  south  of  the  Crimea;  and, 
during  this  time,  had  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing another  ceremony  much  more  remark- 
able. It  was  at  the  marriage  of  a  Jew,  which 
took  place  in  the  following  singular  manner. 

For  two  or  three  days  prior  to  the  wedding1,  -*™'M 

Wedding. 

all  the  neighbours  and  friends  of  the  betrothed 
couple  assembled  together,  to  testify  their  joy 
by  the  most  tumultuous  rioting,  dancing,  and 
feasting.  On  the  day  of  marriage,  the  intended 


268  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP,  bride,  accompanied  by  the  priest  and  by  her 
•  own  relations,  was  led,  blindfolded,  to  the  river 

Salgir,  flowing  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  valley 
in  the  front  of  Professor  Pallas  s  house :  here 
she  was  undressed  by  women  who  were  stark- 
naked;  and  being  destitute  of  any  other  covering 
than  the  handkerchief  by  which  her  eyes  were 
concealed,  she  was  plunged  three  times  in  the 
river.  After  this,  being  again  clothed,  she  was 
conducted,  blindfolded  as  before,  to  the  house 
of  her  parents, -accompanied  by  all  her  friends, 
who  were  singing,  dancing,  and  performing 
music,  before  her.  In  the  evening,  the  bridegroom 
was  brought  to  her ;  but,  as  long  as  the  feast 
continued,  she  remained  with  her  eyes  bound. 

The   garrison  of  Ahmetchet    paraded    every 

morning,   from   seven   o'clock   until   ten;    but 

troops  in  a  worse  state  of  discipline,  or  more 

unfit   for  service,   were   perhaps  never   seen. 

Military     The  whole  military  force  of  the  Crimea  then 

Force  of 

amounted  to  fifteen  thousand  men:  of  this 
number,  fifteen  hundred  were  in  garrison  at 
Ahmetchet.  There  were  seven  complete  regi- 
ments in  the  Peninsula,  besides  two  companies 
of  invalids,  and  a  Greek  battalion  at  Balaclava. 
At  Perecop  there  was  a  garrison  of  invalids ; 
and  garrisons  were  also  established  at  Yenikale, 
Kertchy,  Cqffh,  Karasubazar,  Ahmetchet,  Bahtche- 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.         269 

serai,  Koslof,  and  Aktiar ;  where  there  were  two 
regiments.  Notwithstanding  the  reputed  rigour 
of  the  Sovereign,  his  attention  to  the  minutiae  of 
discipline,  and  his  passion  for  military  pursuits, 
a  degree  of  negligence  and  of  stupidity  charac- 
terized all  public  affairs ;  so  that  the  boasted 
strength  of  the  Russian  empire,  during  the 
reign  of  PAUL,  could  only  excite  ridicule.  Such 
was  the  disposition  of  the  guard  along  the  coast, 
and  such  the  nature  of  the  country,  that  an  army 
might  have  been  landed,  and  marched  up  to 
the  sentinels  at  Akmetchet,  before  they  were 
observed.  Detested  as  the  Russians  were  by 
every  inhabitant  of  the  Crimea,  their  expulsion 
from  the  Peninsula,  if  it  had  pleased  Great 
Britain  to  restore  it  to  the  Turks,  would  have 
been  a  work  of  ease  and  amusement.  The 
harbour  of  Nymph&um  was  entirely  open ;  and 
it  was  unguarded,  both  by  sea  and  land.  To 
the  west,  at  Sudak,  Alusta,  or  Yourzuf,  invaders 
would  have  found  the  Tahtars  greeting  their 
arrival  with  tears  of  joy.  A  small  band  of 
Morean  Greeks,  upon  the  coast,  were  ready 
either  to  join  the  invaders,  or  to  fly  at  their 
approach1.  In  the  garrisoned  towns,  a  few 


(l)  Though  some  years  have  elapsed  since  this  Journal  was  written, 
the  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  Russia  rather  tend  to  facilitate, 
than  to  obstruct,  the  capture  of  the  Crimea. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

snoring  soldiers,  hardly  out  of  drill,  or  a  party 
of  bloated  officers,  labouring  under  indigestion 
and  ague,   would  not  have  offered  even   the 
semblance  of  an  opposition.     Any  experienced 
General,  belonging  to  the  armies  of  England, 
of  France,   or   of   Germany,   might   then   have 
pledged  his  reputation  for  the  capture  of  the 
Crimea  with  a  thousand  men1.     Such  an  event, 
throughout  the  Peninsula,  wotild  have  been  cele- 
brated as  a  signal  delivery  from  the  worst  of 
tyrants ;    and   every  honest  individual  would 
have  participated  in  the  transports  of  an  injured 
people  thus  honourably  emancipated. 

This  account  may  not  seem  to  accord  with 
the  descriptions  published  concerning  the  con- 
duct of  the  Russian  troops  in  'Italy,  under  Field- 
marshal  Suvorof.  But  where  will  Russia  find 
another  Suvorof?  He  was  created  to  be  a 
Russian  General;  possessing  all  the  qualifica- 
tions, and  the  only  qualifications  entitling  a 
Russian  chieftain  to  the  hope  of  victory.  Among 
his  troops,  he  was  generally  their  commander ; 
individually,  their  comrade  and  their  friend.  To 
the  highest  military  rank  in  Russia,  he  joined 


(I)  We  had  the  satisfaction  to  bring  to  England  a  Survey  of  the 
ports  of  JIttiar,  with  all  the  soundings  :  it  is  engraved  for  this  Work. 


SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA.  271 

the  manners  and  the  taste  of  a  private  soldier ;  CHAP. 
one  moment  closeted  with  his  Sovereign ;  the 
next,  drinking  quass  with  his  troops,  eating  raw 
turnips,  divesting  himself  of  vermin,  or  sleeping 
upon  straw.  He  partook  every  interest  of  the 
privates ;  entered  into  all  their  little  histories ; 
mediated  in  their  disputes ;  shared  in  their 
amusements ;  was  at  once  their  counsellor  and 
their  example;  the  hero  who  taught  and  led 
the  way  to  victory.  The  Catechism  (as  he 
strangely  termed  that  extraordinary  document 
which  was  composed  by  him  for  the  instruction 
of  every  soldier  in  his  army)  will  shew  more  of 
his  real  character  than  the  most  studied  descrip- 
tion :  it  possesses  a  portion  of  all  his  characte- 
ristics ;  of  his  buffoonery ;  his  inconsistency ; 
his  barbarity ;  his  military  skill ;  his  knowledge 
of  the  disposition  of  his  countrymen;  his 
anxiety  and  precaution  for  the  welfare  of  his 
troops ;  as  well  as  of  his  remarkable  talent  for 
directing  even  their  vices  to  advantage :  in  a 
word,  it  offers  a  key  to  those  counsels  which 
guided  all  his  military  operations.  This  singular 
document  fell  into  our  hands :  it  was  sent  by 
order  of  the  Crown,  while  we  remained  in  the 
country,  to  every  regiment  in  the  Russian  service ; 
to  the  end  that  each  soldier  might  learn  to  repeat 
it  from  memory ;  and  it  is  presented  to  the 


272  SOUTH  COAST  OF  THE  CRIMEA. 

CHAP.  English  Reader  in  the  Appendix1,  as  literally 
translated,  from  the  original  Russian,  as  the 
different  idioms  of  the  two  languages  will 
admit. 

(1)  See  the  Appendix,  No.  I. 


THE      EVXINE 

w- 


Bay  ofPhanari,the  last .. 

the  three  pord  mentioned 
by  .St  ratio,  a»  between  the 
AVu'  C'tiersonfsui  and  the 
Promontory  Partheniu 


MINOR  PENINSULA  OF 
THE  HERAC^EOTjE. 


1.  Food  lending  to  Alexiano's  Chouter. 
3.   The  fortress  on  the  Peninsula.   See 

Pallas's  Travel*,  vol.  II.  p.  24. 
3.  T/ic  Wnifj  or.  f/ie  summit,  700  fcor« 

pa«j  i»  length. 
t.  Road  leading  through  the  Ruins,  to  a 

neck  of  land,  at  ifi,  (which  divided 

the  City  in  two  parts)  1094  yards  in 

length. 
5«  A    similar   Road:     both  these   run 

between  parallel    Hail,,  the  hewn 

itone  of  which  is  in  some   places 

risible, 
f.  Here  the  distance  is  54  yard*  from 

wall  to  wall. 

7.  Thirty  yards  from  vail  to  wall. 

8.  *3  ditto.     A  large  Area,  including 

Ruins  of  Public  Works.    One  stone 


here,  terming  to  cover  a  well,  is 
two  yards  and  a  half  square. 
9.  84  yard.,  from  wall  to  wall. 
o.  300  ditto. 
1.  319  ditto. 
a.  150  di«o. 
3.  135di/to. 
4.  A  Wall  running  obliquely  from  the 
City  towards  the  Fortress. 
15.  The  outer  Wall  of  the  City,  towards 
the  neck  of  land  at  16,  having  a 
road  or   street   inclosed   by    two 
walls. 
16.  A  neck  of  land,  or  second  Isthmus  of 
the  Peninsula  of  Plmnari,  sepa- 
rating  the  Old  Chernonejus  «n<o 
(wo  dutinct  parti. 
17.  The  Sail  Lakes. 

18.  Indistinct    Ruins    on   the   second 
Isthmut,  as  of  garden  walls. 
19.  The  Walls  of  the  Outer  City,  o*  the 
ultimate  Peninsula. 
20.  The  Point  of  Phanari.     Here  are 
the  ruin  t  of  a  very  autient  building, 
the   arched    door   and   walls   of 
which  are  still  entire. 
11.  Smaller  Salt  Lakes,  almost  dry. 
22.  Two  Moles:  the  southern  ane  is  of 
sand,  the  northern  of  large  stonett 
covered  with  rock  samphire. 
23.  In  this  Area  are  Tumuli  of  large 
stones,  and  apparently  thf  foun- 
dation of  a  Temple. 
24.  RuiiiJ  from  the  wall  at  1<1,  to  «V 
Point  ;  an  extent  of  3000  yards 
from  x  to  y. 

CHAP.  VII. 


SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE  MINOR  PENINSULA  OF  THE 
HERACLEOT.&. 

Professor  Pallas  accompanies  the  Author  —  Mankoop  — 
Ruins  of  the  Fortress  —  Cape  of  the  Winds  —  Shulu  — 
Fuller' s-earth  Pits  —  Manufacture  of  Keff-kil  — 
Isthmian  Wall  —  Ala  Burun  —  Coins  of  Vladimir 


274  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

— Akxianos  Chanter  —  Point  and  Bay  of  Phanari  — 
Ruins  of  the  old  Chersonesus  of  Strabo  —  Valley  of 
Tchorgona  —  Danger  of  the  Climate  —  Tahtar  Nobles 
—  Russian  Recruit  —  Salvia  Hablitziana  —  Return  to 
Akmetchet. 

c  vnf '    As  we  had  not  been  able  to  ascertain  the  situ- 
' — • — '  ation  of  the  most  antient  of  the  two  cities  of 
the  Chersonesians,  described  by  Strabo  as  in  ruins 
within   the   Heracleotic  Peninsula,    and  as  Pro- 
fessor Pallas  maintained  that  it  must  have  stood 
upon,  or  near  to,  the   point   of  land   forming 
the  most  western  territory  of  the  Crimea,  now 
called  Point  Phanari,  we  determined  to  make  a 
second   excursion,  and   to   traverse  the  Minor 
Professor     Peninsula  in   every   direction.     The  Professor 

Pallas  ac-  » 

companies    himself  resolved  to  accompany  us :  accordingly, 

the  Author.  J 

we  left  Akmetchet1,  in  a  light,  open  carriage 
belonging  to  him,  on  Saturday,  September  the 
seventh.  Passing  through  a  deep  ravine,  we 
collected  several  specimens  of  the  Salvia  Ha- 
blitziana, and  the  Centauria  myriocephala :  the 
latter,  a  favourite  food  of  the  Crimean  sheep, 
is  supposed  to  give  that  beautiful  grey  colour 


(1)  "  Akmetchet,  or  FWiite  Mosque,  now  Simphervpol,  although  the 
seat  of  Government,  is  a  wretched  and  ruinous  place,  formerly  exten- 
sive; as  appears  from  its  three  mosques,  which  stand  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  each  other.  There  is  here  a  good  view  of  the  moun- 
tain Chatyr  Dag."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  275 

to  the  wool  of  the  lambs,  which  is  so  highly    CHAP. 

J      vii. 
prized   both   in  Turkey  and  in  Tahtary,   as    an 

ornament  of  the    calpack,    or   cap,    worn   by 
Tahtar     gentlemen,     instead    of    the    turban. 
The  Professor  instructed  us  to  search  for  the 
rarest  plants,  in  deep  sands,  in   salt  marshes, 
and  upon  chalky  hills.     We  purposely  avoided 
entering  again  the  town  of  Baktcheserai,   that 
we   might  not   encounter  the  interruption   of 
ceremonial  visits ;  and  changed  our  horses  at 
Katcka.     Soon  after  leaving  this  last  place,  we 
turned  towards  the   southern  chain  of  moun- 
tains, and  passed  Kara  Ilaes,  the  most  pleasing 
village   in   the    Crimea,    beautifully    situate  in 
the  entrance  of  a   romantic  defile,   leading  to 
Shulu.        Upon    the   right     hand,     soon    after 
entering  this  defile,  and  up6n  the  summits  of  the 
high  mountains  forming  its  southern  side,  are 
seen   the   remains   of  the   antient   fortress    of 
Tcherhesskerman,  once  possessed  by  the  Genoese, 
and    in    remoter    periods    by    the    Tcherkess, 
or,  as  we  write,  Circassians-     When  the  former 
made   themselves   masters  of   all   the  strong- 
holds in  the   Crimea,    they  erected  fortresses 
upon    the    most    precipitous     and    inaccessi- 
ble   places,    in   the    wildest    retreats    of    the 
Peninsula.      Tcherhesskerman    was     one   of  the 
citadels  thus  constructed;    and  the   scattered 
ruins  of  its  battlements  yet  cover  the  heights 

VOL.  II.  T 


2/6  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 


CHAP,  here  mentioned.  Its  remains  are  less  remark- 
able  than  those  of  Mankoop,  upon  the  other 
side  of  the  defile  ;  on  this  account  we  preferred 
making  a  visit  to  the  latter  :  turning  off,  there- 
fore, to  a  village  upon  the  left  hand,  we  were 
provided  with  beautiful  Tdhtar  horses  and 
guides  for  the  undertaking. 


The  citadel  of  Mankoop  is  of  very  extraor- 
dinary magnitude;  and  it  may  be  truly  described 
as  being  in  the  clouds.  It  covers  the  summit 
of  a  semicircular  insulated  mountain,  which, 
owing  to  its  frightful  aspect,  its  altitude,  and 
its  craggy  perpendicular  sides,  independently  of 
every  other  consideration  than  as  a  surprising 
work  of  nature,  fills  the  mind  with  wonder,  upon 
entering  the  defile.  In  this  singular  situation, 
where  there  were  no  visible  means  of  ascent 
towards  any  of  the  heights,  much  less  of  con- 
veying materials  for  the  astonishing  work  they 
completed,  did  the  Greeks  construct  a  citadel  ', 
without  a  parallel  in  Europe,  the  result  of  their 
wealth,  address,  and  enterprise.  History  does 


(l)  Some  curious  memorials  of  this  remarkable  citadel  (Mankoop) 
are  found  in  Broniovius,  who  describes  it  as>  "  ATX  et  civitas  quondam 
antiquissima."  He  also  says,  "  Mancopia  civitas  ad  monies  et  sylvas 
magis  porrecta,  et  mari  non  jam  propinqua  est ;  arces  duas  in  altis- 
simo  saxo  et  peramplo  conditas,  templa  Grseca  sumptuosa  et  tedes,  &c. 

habuit Ac  in  eo  monte  saxoso,  in  quo  sita  est,  in  saxo  rairo 

admodum 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA,  277 

not  mention  for  what  purpose  these  works 
were  carried  on  in  the  interior  of  the  country, 
at  such  a  distance  from  the  coast;  but  it  is 
natural  to  conjecture  their  use,  in  curbing  the 
hostile  spirit  of  the  natives  towards  the  mari- 
time colonial  possessions.  The  next  possessors 
of  Mankoop  were  the  Genoese ;  afterwards,  it 
belonged  to  a  colony  of  Jews.  Ruined  tombs  of 
marble  and  stone  were  lying  in  the  ccemetery  of 
the  Jewish  colony,  beneath  the  trees  which 
we  passed  in  our  ascent.  The  whole  of  our 
passage  up  the  mountain  was  steep  and  diffi- 
cult; nor  was  it  rendered  more  practicable  by 
the  amazing  labours  of  its  original  possessors, 
whose  dilapidated  works  now  rather  impeded 
than  facilitated  our  progress.  The  ascent  had 
once  been  paved  the  whole  way,  and  stairs 
were  formed,  like  those  of  the  Merdveen,  de- 
scribed in  the  last  Chapter  ;  these  still  remain 
entire  in  many  places. 

When  we  reached  the  summit,  we  found  it  Rumor 
entirely    covered   with   ruins   of   the    citadel.  tr<L.01 


admodum  opere  donius  excisas  habet,  qua  etsi  ille  locus  nunc  sylvosus 
est,  integrae  tamen  plurimsBTeperiuntur.  Phanum  marmoreis  et 
serpeutinis  columnis  ornatum  humijam  prostratum  et  corruptum, 
insignem  et  clarum  quondam  eum  locum  extitisse  testatur."  Descrip. 
Tartar,  pp.  262.  264. 

x2 


278  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

CHAP.    Caverns   and   gloomy  passages  hewn    in  the 

V  j  Z» 

solid  rock,  whose  original  uses  are  now  un- 
known, presented  on  every  side  their  dark 
mouths.  Upon  the  most  elevated  part  of  this  ex- 
traordinary eminence  there  is  a  beautiful  plain, 
covered  with  a  fine  turf:  here  we  found  the 
Rosa  Pygm&a  of  Pallas,  blooming  in  great 
beauty.  This  plain,  partly  fenced  by  the  mould- 
ering wall  of  the  fortress,  but  otherwise  open 
to  the  surrounding  precipices,  appeared  to 
be  as  lofty  as  the  summit  of  the  cliffs  upon 
the  Sussex  coast,  near  Beachy  Head.  All 
the  other  mountains,  valleys,  hills,  woods,  and 
villages,  may  be  discerned  from  this  spot. 
While  with  dismay  and  caution  we  crept  upon 
our  hands  and  knees  to  look  over  the  brink 
of  these  fearful  heights,  a  half-clad  Tahtar, 
wild  as  the  winds  of  the  north,  mounted  upon 
a  colt  equally  unsubdued,  without  any  saddle 
or  bridle,  except  the  twisted  stem  of  a  wild 
vine,  galloped  to  the  very  edge  of  the  pre- 
cipice, and  there,  as  his  horse  stood  prancing 
upon  the  borders  of  eternity,  amused  himself 
in  pointing  out  to  us  the  different  places,  in 
the  vast  district  which  the  eye  commanded, 
We  entered  into  one  of  the  excavated  cham- 
bers; a  small  square  apartment,  leading  to 
another  upon  our  right  hand.  Upon  our  left, 
a  narrow  passage  conducted  us  to  an  open 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  279 

balcony,  formed  in  the  rock,  upon  the  very 
face  of  one  of  the  principal  precipices,  whence 
the  depth  below  might  be  contemplated  with 
less  danger.  Vultures  far  beneath  were  sailing 
over  the  valleys,  not  seeming  to  be  larger  than 
swallows.  Below  these,  appeared  the  tops 
of  undulating  hills,  covered  by  tufted  woods, 
with  villages  amidst  rocks  and  denies,  but  at 
a  depth  so  intimidating,  that  our  blood  became 
chilled  in  beholding  them.  We  afterwards  found 
the  remains  of  churches,  and  of  other  public 
buildings,  among  the  ruins;  and  these  were 
more  perfectly  preserved  than  might  have  been 
expected  in  the  Russian  empire  :  but  the  cause 
is  explained,  in  the  difficulty  of  their  access.  At 
length,  being  conducted  to  the  north-eastern 
point  of  a  crescent  (which  is  the  natural  form 
of  the  summit  whereon  the  citadel  of  Mankoop 
was  constructed),  and  descending  a  few  stone 
steps  neatly  hewn  in  the  rock,  we  entered,  by 
a  square  door,  into  a  cavern,  called,  by  the 
Tahtars,  THE  CAPE  OF  THE  WINDS.  It  has 


been  hewn,  like  the  rest,  out  of  the  solid  stone  ; 
but  it  is  open  on  four  sides.  Judging  from  the 
amazing  prospect  which  is  here  presented  of  all 
the  surrounding  country,  this  cavern  probably 
served  as  a  place  of  military  observation.  The 
apertures,  or  windows,  are  large  arched  chasms 
in  the  rock  :  through  these  a  most  extensive 


280  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

°vnP  view,  over  distant  mountains  and  rolling  clouds, 
forms  a  sublime  spectacle.  There  is  nothing, 
in  any  part  of  Europe,  which  can  surpass  the 
tremendous  grandeur  of  the  scenery.  Below 
this  cavern  there  is  another  chamber^  leading  to 
some  other  cells  on  its  several  sides  :  these  have 
all  been  hewn  in  the  same  entire  rock. 

We  pursued  a  different  road  in  our  descent 
from  this  place ;  passing  beneath  an  old  arched 
gateway  of  the  citadel,  once  its  principal  en- 
trance1. This  road  flanks  the  northern  side  of 
the  mountain;  and  the  fall  into  the  valley  is  so 
bold  and  profound,  that  it  seems  as  if  a  single 
false  step  would  precipitate  both  horse  and 
rider.  By  alighting,  the  danger  is  avoided ;  and 
the  terror  of  the  descent  compensated,  in  the 
noblest  prospect  the  eye  ever  beheld.  It  was 
dark  before  we  reached  the  bottom.  "We  had 
some  difficulty  to  regain  the  principal  road  lead- 
ing through  the  defile ;  owing  principally  to 
trees  projecting  over  all  the  lanes  in  the  vicinity 
of  Tahtar  villages,  and  so  effectually  obstructing 
the  passage  of  persons  on  horseback,  that 


(1)  Future  travellers,  who  may  visit  Afankoop,  are  advised  to  choose 
this  road  for  their  ascent ;  as  it  will  afford  them  the  sublimest  views 
perhaps  ever  beheld.  The  Tahtar $,  for  what  reason  cannot  be  explained, 
call  it  The  Carriage-way,  although  we  were  unable  to  sit  even  upon  our 
horses,  in  going  down. 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  281 

we  were  in  continual  danger  of  being  thrown. 
One  of  our  party  nearly  lost  an  eye  by  a  blow 
he  received  from  a  bough  stretching  entirely 
over  the  path  we  pursued.  The  defile  itself  is 
not  without  danger,  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year. 
Immense  masses  of  limestone  detach  themselves 
from  the  rocks  above,  carrying  all  before  them 
in  their  passage :  some,  from  the  northern  pre- 
cipices, had  crossed  the  river  at  the  bottom, 
and,  by  the  prodigious  velocity  acquired  in 
their  descent,  had  rolled  nearly  half  way  up  the 
opposite  side.  We  noticed  some  of  these  frag- 
ments in  our  way  to  ShM,  where  we  passed 
the  night.  This  village  belongs  to  Professor 
Pallas,  and  consists  of  a  forest  of  walnut-trees, 
beneath  which  every  dwelling  is  concealed. 
One  of  those  trees  yields  to  him,  as  he  informed 
us  upon  the  spot,  sixty  thousand  walnuts  in  a 
single  season.  The  ordinary  price  of  the  fruit, 
throughout  the  Crimea,  is  from  eighty  to  a  hun- 
dred copeeks  for  a  thousand.  The  Professor 
had  built  for  himself  a  very  magnificent  seat  at 
Shulu ;  but  owing  to  disputes  with  the  Tahtars, 
concerning  the  extent  of  his  little  territory,  the 
completion  of  the  work  had  been  delayed,  when 
we  arrived.  The  building  is  placed  upon  the 
northern  side  of  the  defile,  commanding  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  valley ;  but,  from  the  chalky 
nature  of  the  soil  in  the  surroundiog  hills, 


282  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

CHAP,  thing  had  a  white  glare,  painful  to  the  eye,  and 
wholly  destructive  of  all  picturesque  appear- 
ance. Near  to  this  hill,  upon  one  of  the  emi- 
nences opposite  to  the  Professor's  house,  is  a 
series  of  excavations,  similar  to  those  of  Inker- 
man;  exhibiting  the  antient  retreats  of  Christians 
in  cells  and  grottoes.  One  of  these  cavernous 
chambers  is  not  less  than  eighty  paces  in  length, 
with  a  proportionate  breadth,  and  its  roof  is 
supported  by  pillars  hewn  in  the  rock:  the 
stone,  from  the  softness  of  its  nature,  did  not 
demand  the  labour  which  has  been  requisite  in 
similar  works  situate  in  other  parts  of  the 
Crimea. 


From  Shulu  we  proceeded  once  more  to  Bala- 
clava. In  our  road,  we  passed  several  pits,  in 
which  the  Tahtars  dig  that  kind  of  fuller's  clay 
called  Keff-kil1,  or  '  mineral  froth  ;  and,  by  the 
Germans,  meerschaum.  This  substance,  before 
the  capture  of  the  Crimea,  was  a  considerable 
article  of  commerce  with  Constantinople,  where 
It  is  used  in  the  public  baths,  to  cleanse  the 
hair  of  the  women.  It  is  often  sold  to  German 
merchants  for  the  manufacture  of  those  beautiful 


(I)  Literally,  foam-earth;  but  often  erroneously  supposed  to  derive 
its  name  from  the  town  of  Caffa,  whence  this  Mineral  was  exjjprted  to 
TURKEY.  See  the  Observations  in  Chap.  IV.  of  this  Volume,  p.  153, 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  283 

tobacco-pipes  that  are  called  ecume  de  mer  by  the  CHAP. 
French,  and  which  sell  for  enormous  prices,  ^— ^ — » 
even  in  our  own  country,  after  they  have  been 
long  used,  and  thereby  stained  by  the  oil  of 
tobacco.  The  process  necessary  to  the  perfec- 
tion of  one  of  these  pipes,  with  all  its  attendant 
circumstances,  is  really  a  curious  subject. 
Since  the  interruption  of  commerce  between 
the  Crimea  and  Turkey,  the  clay  requisite  in 
their  manufacture  has  been  dug  near  Eski  Shekhr, 
in  Anatolia e.  The  first  rude  form  is  given  to  Manuff- 

ture   of 

the  pipes  upon  the  spot  where  the  mineral  is  Keff*il* 
found :  here  they  are  pressed  within  a  mould, 
and  laid  in  the  sun  to  harden :  afterwards,  they 
are  baked  in  an  oven,  boiled  in  milk,  and  rubbed 
with  soft  leather.  In  this  state  they  are  sent  to 
Constantinople,  where  there  is  a  peculiar  bazar, 
or  rather  a  khan3,  in  which  they  are  exposed  for 
sale :  they  are  then  bought  up  by  merchants, 
and  conveyed,  by  caravans,  to  Pest  in  Hungary. 
Still  the  form  of  the  pipe  is  large  and  rude. 
At  Pest,  a  manufacture  begins,  which  is  to 
prepare  them  for  the  German  markets.  They 
are  there  soaked  for  twenty-four  hours  in  water, 
and  then  turned  by  a  lathe.  In  this  process, 


(2)  The  sale  of  it  supports  a  monastery  of  Dervishet.     It  consists  of 
filex,  water,  magnesia,  and  carbonic  acid. 

(3)  The  place  is  called  Ouxoun  Tcharcty,  in  the  Fildjian^i  Khan. 


284  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

CHAP,  many  of  them,  proving  porous,  are  rejected. 
Sometimes,  only  two  or  three,  out  of  ten,  are 
deemed  worthy  of  further  labour.  From  Pest 
they  are  conveyed  to  Fienna,  and  frequently 
mounted  in  silver.  After  this,  they  are  carried 
to  the  fairs  of  Leipsic,  Francfort,  Manheim,  and 
to  other  towns  upon  the  Rhine;  where  the 
best  sell  from  three  to  five,  and  even  seven, 
pounds  sterling  each.  When  the  oil  of  tobacco, 
after  long  smoking,  has  given  to  these  pipes  a 
fine  porcelain  yellow,  or,  which  is  more  prized, 
a  dark  tortoiseshell  hue,  they  have  been  known 
to  sell  for  forty  or  fifty  pounds,  of  our  money. 
Their  manner  of  digging  kejf-kil  in  the  Crimea 
is  this:  they  open  a  shaft  in  the  ground,  and 
continue  to  work  in  it  until  the  sides  begin  to 
fall  in ;  this  soon  happens,  from  the  nature  of 
the  soil ;  when  they  open  a  new  pit.  A  stratum 
of  marl  generally  covers  the  kejf-kil:  through  this 
they  have  to  dig,  sometimes  to  the  depth  of 
from  eight  to  twelve  fathoms.  The  layer  of 
keff-hil  seldom  exceeds  twenty-eight  inches  in 
thickness,  and  the  marl  occurs  beneath  it  as 
before.  At  present,  the  annual  exportation  of 
this  mineral,  from  the  whole  Peninsula,  does  not 
exceed  two  tons :  the  consumption  of  it  in  the 
Crimea  is  inconsiderable,  although  it  be  sold,  in 
all  the  markets,  at  the  low  price  of  twenty 
copeeks  the  pond. 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  285 

At  the  distance  of  about  two  miles  from  Bala- 
clava,  as  we  proceeded  to  that  place,  we  disco-  isthniail 
vered  the  traces  of  an  antient  wall,  extending  Wal1- 
from  the  mountains  eastward  of  the  harbour 
towards  the  west,  and  thus  closing  the  approach 
to  Balaclava  on  the  land  side.  As  this  wall 
offered  a  clue  to  the  discovery  of  the  other, 
mentioned  by  Strabo,  which  extended  across 
the  Isthmus,  from  the  Ctenus  to  the  Portus  Symbo- 
lorum,  we  determined  to  pursue  it ;  and  we  con- 
tinued on  horseback,  guided  by  its  remains; 
Professor  Pallas  choosing  to  follow  more  care- 
fully en  foot,  with  a  mariner's  compass  in  his 
hand.  Presently  we  encountered  the  identical 
work  we  so  much  wished  to  find :  it  will  serve 
to  throw  considerable  light  upon  the  topography 
of  the  Minor  Peninsula.  It  meets  the  wall  of 
the  Portus  Symbolorum  at  right  angles,  and 
thence  extends  towards  Inkerman,  where  it 
joined  the  Ctenus.  We  traced  it  the  whole  way. 
The  distance  between  the  two  ports  is  very 
erroneously  stated,  and  it  is  exaggerated  in  all 
our  maps.  It  agrees  precisely  with  Strabo's 
admeasurement  of  forty  stadia,  or  five  miles,  from 
sea  to  sea.  All  that  now  remains  of  this  wall, 
is  a  bank  or  mound  :  upon  this  the  marks  and 
vestiges  of  turrets  are  still  visible.  The  stones 
of  which  it  consisted,  have,  for  the  most  part, 
been  removed  by  the  inhabitants ;  either  to  form 


286  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

inclosures  for  the  shepherds,  or  to  construct  the 
Tahtar  dwellings.  The  parts  which  remain  are 
sufficient  to  prove  the  artificial  nature  of  the 
work ;  as  the  stones  are  not  natural  to  the  soil, 
but  foreign  substances,  evidently  brought  for  the 
purpose  of  fortifying  the  rampart.  Having 
determined  the  reality  and  the  position  of  this 
wall,  we  resolved  not  to  lose  time  in  further 
examination  of  the  territory  here;  but  ascended 
the  steep  mountains  upon  the  coast  towards 
the  west,  to  visit  the  stupendous  cape,  called,  by 
the  Taktors,  AIA  BvRVN,  or  tlieHoly  Promontory, 
lying  between  Balaclava  and  the  Monastery  of 
St.  George.  The  PARTHENIUM  of  Strabo  was 
within  the  Heracleotic  Chersonesus,  as  the  plain 
text  of  that  author  undoubtedly  demonstrates : 
and,  if  there  be  a  spot  well  calculated  for  the 
terrible  rites  said  to  have  been  celebrated  in 
honour  of  the  Taurican  Diana,  as  well  as  for  the 
agreement  of  its  position  with  the  distance  of 
the  Parthenium  from  the  city  of  Chersonesus,  it  is 
the  AIA  BVRVN  :  indeed  there  is  something  in  its 
present  appellation  which  coincides  with  the 
antient  sanctity  of  the  PARTHENIAN  PROMON- 
TORY. Pallas  appears  subsequently  to  have 
admitted  their  identity ' ;  but  at  the  time  of  our 
visit  to  this  place,  he  was  not  decided  in  his 

(l)  See  Pallat's  Travels,  vol.  II.  p.  63. 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  287 

opinion  upon  the  subject.  In  fixing  the  position  CHAP. 
of  objects,  to  which  we  have  been  guided  solely 
by  the  text  of  the  Greek  or  the  Roman  historian, 
in  barbarous  countries,  there  is  always  some 
uncertainty;  but  when  barbarians  themselves,  by 
their  simple  and  uncouth  traditions,  confirm  the 
observations  of  the  classic  writer,  and  fix  the 
wavering  fact,  there  seems  little  reason  for 
doubt.  Upon  this  account,  the  AIA  BVRVN 
has  perhaps  as  good  a  title  to  be  considered  the 
Parthenium  of  Strabo*,  as  the  harbour  of  Bala- 
clava his  Portus  Symbolorum.  At  the  same  time 
it  must  be  confessed,  that  a  similar  epithet 
occurs  in  the  appellation  AI'VDAGH,  given  to  a 
promontory  mentioned  in  the  preceding  Chapter, 
and  probably,  too,  from  some  circumstances  con- 
nected with  the  antient  worship  to  which  Slrabo 
alludes;  because  the  word  Parthenit  is  still 
retained  in  the  name  of  a  contiguous  village. 
Hence  it  is  evident  that  different  promontories 
of  the  Tauride,  which  antiently  bore  the  name 
of  Parthenium,  necessarily  perplex  an  inquiry 


(2)  The  decision  of  this  point  will  be  left  for  future  travellers,  who 
may  take  the  pains  of  measuring  its  exact  distance  from  the  ruins  of 
the  city  of  the  CJiersonesians.  It  has  been  here  stated,  merely  from 
conjecture,  to  agree  with  Strabo's  account,  who  makes  it  equal  to  an 
hundred  stadia,  or  twelve  miles  and  a  half.  If  the  distance  to  the 
AIA  BVRVN  should  prove  more  than  this,  they  will  do  well  to  direct 
their  attention,  in  the  next  instance,  to  that  part  of  the  coast  men- 
tioned in  p.  215  of  this  volume,  as  having  a  natural  arch. 


288  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

CHAP,  tending  to  ascertain  the  exact  position  of  any 
'  one  in  particular.  In  the  language  of  the  Tauri, 
who  were  the  earliest  votaries  of  the  Diana  of 
the  country,  this  goddess  was  called  Orsiloche  ; 
and  perhaps  in  the  Caucasian  mountains, 
whence  the  Tauri  were  derived,  the  significa- 
tion of  her  most  antient  appellation  might  be 
obtained.  In  the  district  of  CAUCASUS,  Pallas 
discovered  the  interpretation  of  the  word 
Ardauda;  which,  in  the  dialect  of  the  Tauri, 
was  a  name  of  Theodosia;  and  he  found  it  to 
signify  the  Seven-fold  Divinity;  answering  to  the 
EHTA0E02  of  the  anonymous  Periplus  of  the 
Euxine1. 


The  AIA  BVRVN  has  been  by  some  authors 
erroneously  denominated  the  Criu-metopon.  It 
is  a  wild  and  fearful  scene,  such  as  Shakspeare 
has  described  in  Lear;  a  perpendicular  and 
tremendous  precipice,  one  of  the  loftiest  in  the 
Crimea;  consisting  of  a.  mountain  of  marble, 
terminating  abruptly  in  the  sea.  Towards  the 
west  it  borders  upon  a  valley,  where  the  village 
of  Karany  is  situate,  now  inhabited  by  Greeks. 
After  we  had  passed  the  Cape,  and  were  within 


(1)      Nw»  Sk  Xtytrat  n  Qitvboff'nt  <r»  '  A.\a,iixri     y<ru  <rn 

TaufiKn    3<aXix<r»  'AfSctu^tt,  ravrtffni  EI1TA0EO2. 

Anonymi  Peripluj,  ed.  Grmov.  p.  143.  Lug.  Bat.  1697- 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  289 

two  versts  of  the  Monastery  of  St.  George,  we  CHAP. 
fancied  we  had  found  the  actual  fane  of  the  «•  T '  • 
d&inon  virgin,  described  by  Strabo  as  situate 
upon  the  Parthenian  Promontory.  We  came  to 
a  ruined  structure,  with  decisive  marks  of 
remote  antiquity:  its  materials,  of  the  most 
massive  stone,  were  laid  together  without  any 
cement.  Part  of  the  pavement  and  walls  were 
still  visible.  From  this  spot  our  view  of  the 
AIA  BVRVN  was  taken ;  but  the  scale  of  the 
representation  did  not  allow  the  introduction  of 
the  Ruin  into  the  fore-ground 2.  The  elevation 
of  the  visible  horizon  towards  the  sea,  which 
has  so  singular  an  appearance  in  the  Plate,  is 
not  exaggerated3. 

Soon  afterwards,  we  arrived,  for  the  second 
time,  at  the  Monastery  of  St.  George :  of  this 
place  our  friend  Pallas  afterwards  published  an 


(2)  See  the  Quarto  Edition. 

(3)  Once,  descending  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  (where  a 
similar  scope  of  vision  is  presented,)  as  the  atmosphere  became  more 
than  usually  clear,  the  author  was  to  the  highest  degree  astonished, 
not  being  conscious  of  his  own  elevation,  to  behold  the  Islands  of 
Ventotitna  and  Ponza  actually  appearing  above  the  clouds,  and,  as  it 
were,"in  the  sky,  far  above  what  seemec1.  .he  line  of  the  visible  horizon. 
Persons  are  now  living  who  witnessed  at  the  same  time  that  remarkable 
spectacle.    He  has  since  beheld  similar  phsenomena  both  in  the  Hebrides 
and  in  the  Archipelago ;  but  if  such  appearances  were  to  be  engraven, 
they  might  be  deemed  unfaithful  representations,  by  persons  who  have 
never  seen  any  thing  of  the  same  nature. 


290  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

CHAP,    engraving,  in  the  second  volume  of  his  "Travels* 
*      T      •  through  the  Southern  Provinces  of  the  Russian 
Empire."    The  anniversary,  mentioned  by  Bro- 
niovius,  is  still  celebrated  here1.     Some  peasants 
Coins  of     brought  us  a  few  copper  coins  of  Vladimir  the 
Great.      These   are  very   interesting,   because 
they  evidently  refer  to  the  aera  of  his  baptism; 
an  event  which  took  place  near  the  spot.     They 
have   in  front  a  Russian  V,  and   for  reverse  a 
crucifix;    symbolical  of  his   conversion   to  the 
Christian  religion.     It  has  been  already  men- 
tioned,  that  he  was  baptized   in   the  Crimea; 
and  the  ceremony  took  place,    according    to 
Herberstein*,   at  the  city  of  Chersonesus,   called 
Cher  son,  or  Corson3;    a  name  easily  now  con- 
founded   with     Cherson    on    the    Dnieper;     an 
appellation    bestowed    by    the  Russians,    with 
their  usual    ignorance   of    antient    geography, 
upon  a  modern  town,  near  to  the  mouth  of  that 


(1)  "  Est  in  eo  loco  unde  rivulus  ille  delabitur  Pagus  quidam  nou 
iijnobilis,  et  non  procul  in  ripa  maris,  in  monte  saxoso,  Grtrcum  monas- 
terium,  Sancti  Georgii  solemne;  anniversaria  devotio  Graecis  Christian!-, 
qui  nunc  in  Taurica  sunt  reliqui,  in  magna  frequentia  ibi  fieri  solet." 
Martini  Broniovii  Tarlaria,  Lug.  Bat.  ]  630. 

(2)  Apud  Pagi,  torn.  IV.  p.  56. 

(3)  See  the  Additional  Notes  at  the  end  of  this  Volume,  for  a  very 
interesting  document  concerning  this  once  magnificent  city,  by  Bro- 
niovius;  an  account  very  little  known,  but  preserving,  perhaps,  the  only 
existing  description  of  it.     Broniovius  states,  that  Vladimir  was  bap- 
tized by  the  Greek  Patriarch,  in  the  principal  monastery  of  the  city  of 
Chersonetits. 


HERACLEOTIC  MINOR  PENINSULA.  291 

river.      About  five  versts   from  the  monastery.     CHAP. 

y      vn. 

following  the  coast,  we  came  to  some  extensive  *  — T-  ._-» 

ruins  in  a  small  wood,  upon  the  right-hand  side 
of  our  road.  In  their  present  state,  it  is  impos- 
sible even  to  trace  a  plan  of  them :  the  Tahtar 
shepherds,  moving  the  stones  to  serve  as  the 
materials  of  inclosure  for  their  flocks,  have 
confused  all  that  remains.  Hence  we  continued 
our  journey  towards  the  extreme  south-western 
point  of  the  Crimea,  and  arrived  at  a  place 
called  Alexianos  Ckouter,  as  it  grew  dark.  The  Aiexianrfs 
barking  of  dogs  announced  the  comfortable 
assurance  of  human  dwellings,  and  excited  a 
hope  of  some  asylum  for  the  night,  after  severe 
fatigue.  We  found,  however,  that  what  we 
supposed  to  be  a  village,  consisted  of  four  or 
five  wretched  fishing-huts.  A  few  Greeks  quar- 
tered there  offered  to  lodge  us  all  within  a  hole 
recently  dug  in  the  earth,  scarcely  capable  of  con- 
taining three  persons,  the  smell  of  which  place 
we  found  to  be  abominable ;  it  was,  moreover, 
filled  with  sheep-skins,  swarming  with  vermin. 
Having  procured  a  little  oil  in  a  tin  pan,  we 
made  this  serve  us  for  a  lamp;  and,  searching 
about,  at  last  found  a  small  thatched  hovel,  with 
an  earthen  floor,  and  a  place  for  kindling  a  fire. 
Here,  notwithstanding  the  extreme  heat,  -we 
burned  some  dried  weeds,  in  order  to  counteract 
the  effects  of  miasmata  from  the  marshes  and 

VOL.  II.  U 


292  SECOND  EXCURSION  TO  THE 

s^gnant  waters  of  the  neighbourhood.  By  the 
light  of  our  fire,  a  bed  was  prepared  for 
Professor  Pallas.,  upon  a  sort  of  shelf:  this,  as  it 
supported  only  half  his  mattress,  caused  him 
to  glide  off  as  often  as  he  fell  asleep,  and  at 
last  reconciled  him  to  a  quiet  though  more 
revolting  couch,  upon  the  damp  and  dirty 
floor.  For  ourselves,  having  procured  two 
long  wooden  benches,  about  eight  inches 
wide,  we  contrived  to  balance  our  bodies,  in 
a  horizontal  posture,  between  sleeping  and 
waking,  until  the  morning.  When  day-light 
appeared,  the  Professor  left  us,  to  examine 
Point  &nd  fa  p0int  of  Phanari,  or  the  Light  Tower ;  and, 
Phanari.  returning  before  we  were  yet  aroused  from  our 
dozing,  assured  us  that  the  whole  of  that  neck 
of  land  was  covered  with  antient  ruins.  We 
rose  with  great  eagerness,  to  follow  him ;  and, 
as  we  approached  the  water's  edge,  were  im- 
mediately struck  by  the  appearance  of  a  very 
small  peninsula,  stretching  into  the  Bay  of 
Phanari,  entirely  covered  by  the  remains  of  an 
antient  fortress.  The  ground-plan  of  this  struc- 
ture has  been  published  by  the  Professor,  in  his 
own  Work.  It  seemed  to  have  been  once  an 
island,  connected  with  the  main  land  by  an 
artificial  mole,  now  constituting  a  small  isthmus. 
From  this  peninsula  the  shore  rises,  and  all  the 
land  towards  its  western  extremity  is  elevated. 


HERACLEOTIC.  MINOR  PENINSULA.  293 

Ascending  this  sloping  eminence,  as  soon  as  we    CHAP. 
reached  the  summit,  we  found  the  walls,  the  ^  .-v--' 
streets,  the  dilapidated  buildings,  and  the  other      '0 


ruins  of  the  old  Chersonesus1  .  The  appearance  of 
oblong  pavements,  mouldering  walls,  scattered  Strabo' 
fragments  of  terra  cotta,  broken  amphorae,  tiles  and 
bricks,  belonging  to  aqueducts,  with  other  indi- 
cations of  an  antient  city,  prevailed  over  the 
whole  territory,  extending  to  the  sea.  The 
Plan  which  is  inserted  as  a  Flgnette  to  this 
Chapter  is  very  imperfect,  but  it  may  better 
convey  a  notion  of  the  situation  of  those  ruins 
than  any  written  description.  We  laboured 
the  whole  day  in  tracing  it,  exposed  to  the  rays 
of  a  burning  sun  :  the  venerable  Pallas,  mean- 
while, more  active  than  either  of  us,  toiled 
incessantly;  pacing  all  the  distances,  and 
measuring,  with  his  own  hands,  every  wall  and 
foundation  that  remained.  After  ascertaining 
the  extent  of  those  ruins  the  whole  way  to  the 
Point  of  Phanari,  we  discovered,  upon  the 
western  side  of  the  lay  of  that  name,  and  close 
to  the  water's  edge,  the  remains  of  a  building, 
perhaps  formerly  a  light-house.  It  may  have 
given  the  name  of  Phanari  to  the  western  point, 
as  well  as  to  the  bay.  An  arched  entrance, 
with  two  of  the  walls,  and  a  square  opening  for 

(1)  EJif  ft  ir*X«w*  Xippiyntoi  Ktt-rnrKitfi.fi.ivn.     Strab.  lib.vii.  446.  ed.  Ox  on. 

U2 


294  VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA. 

CHAP,    a  window,  of  very  massive  and  solid  construe- 
v      v    -'  tion,  are  yet  visible. 

Wearied  by  a  laborious  investigation  of  ruins, 

without  having  discovered  a  single  inscription, 

medal,  or  bas-relief,  we  hastened  to  enjoy  the 

Valley  of     beauties  of  Nature  in  the  delightful  Valley  of 

Tcttorgonu- 

Tchorgona;  whither  the  Professor  conducted  us, 
to  pass  the  night  in  the  mansion  of  his  friend 
Hablitz,  whose  name  he  has  commemorated  by 
the  Salvia  Hablitziana,  and  whose  good  offices 
he  so  often  and  so  pathetically  mentions  in  his 
writings '.  Perhaps  there  is  not  a  spot  in  the 
Crimea  more  distinguished  by  its  natural  per- 
fections. Although  comprised  within  a  smaller 
scale,  it  far  surpasses  the  boasted  Galley  of 
Baidar.  The  seat  of  Mr.  Hablitz  was  originally 
the  residence  of  a  Turkish  Pasha,  and  it  pre- 
serves the  irregular  structure  and  the  grotesque 
magnificence  of  Turkish  architecture.  It  is 
shaded  by  vines,  tall  fruit-trees,  and  poplars ; 
standing  among  rocks  and  mountains  covered 
with  woods,  and  gardens  watered  by  numerous 
fountains.  Near  to  the  house  there  is  a  large 
antient  tower,  covered  by  a  dome :  this  was  a 
place  of  refuge  for  the  inhabitants,  when  the 


(l)  See  particularly  "  Travels  through  the  Southern  Provinces,"  Sfc. 
vol.  11.  p.  99. 


VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA.  295 

Black  Sea  swarmed  with  corsairs,  who  invaded    CHAP. 

VII. 

the  coast,  and  ransacked  the  peaceful  valleys 
of  the  Crimea.  We  found  in  its  upper  chambers 
a  few  swivels,  and  some  other  small  pieces  of 
artillery;  yet  the  building  itself  appeared  to 
have  been  erected  in  an  age  anterior  to  the  use 
of  gunpowder  in  Europe.  The  Tahtars  in  the 
Valley  of  Tckorgona  are  reckoned  among  the 
richest  of  the  country.  From  their  vicinity  to 
Aktlar  they  find  a  ready  market  for  the  produce 
of  their  lands;  carrying  thither,  honey,  wax, 
fruit,  and  corn.  Their  sequestered  valley  seemed 
to  be  the  retreat  of  health  and  joy;  not  a  Russian 
was  to  be  seen ;  the  pipe  and  tabor  sounded 
merrily  among  mountains,  thick  set  with  groves, 
which  closed  them  in  on  every  side.  The 
morning  after  our  arrival,  we  were  roused  by  a 
wild  concert  from  the  hills,  of  such  instruments 
as  perhaps  enlivened  the  dances  of  uncivilized 
nations  in  the  earliest  periods  of  society.  The 
performers  were  a  party  of  Tzigankies,  or  gipsies, 
who,  as  mendicant  artificers,  musicians,  and 
astrologers,  are  very  common  over  all  the 
South  of  Russia.  They  had  a  wind-instrument, 
something  like  a  hautboy,  made  of  the  wood 
of  cherry-tree ;  and  carried  the  large  Tahtar 
drum,  noticed  before  as  being  characteristic  of 
the  Cimbri  in  the  time  of  Strabo 2. 

(2)  See  p.  138  of  this  Volume. 


296 


CHAP. 


mate. 


VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  this  day,  Professor 
Pallas  rode  with  Mr.  Galena,  who  came  by  his 
appointment,  to  Inkerman1,  to  shew  to  him  some 
marine  plants  proper  in  the  preparation  of 
kelp.  The  bad  air  of  that  place,  added  to  the 
fatigue  he  had  encountered  the  preceding  day, 
threw  him  into  a  violent  fever:  from  this, 
however,  we  had  the  happiness  to  see  him 
recover,  before  we  left  the  Crimea.  Fevers  are 
so  general,  during  summer,  throughout  the 
Peninsula,  that  it  is  hardly  possible  to  avoid 
them.  If  you  drink  water  after  eating  fruit, 
a  fever  follows;  if  you  eat  milk,  eggs,  or 
butter — a  fever;  if,  during  the  scorching  heat 
of  the  day,  you  indulge  in  the  most  trivial 
neglect  of  clothing — a  fever ;  if  you  venture  out, 


(1)  In  the  dearth  of  intelligence  concerning  Inkerman,  the  brief 
account  preserved  by  Broniovius  is  interesting  and  valuable.  As  an 
author,  he  was  not  only  cited,  but  transcribed  by  Thuanus;  otherwise, 
his  writings  appear  to  have  escaped  observation.  "  Ingermenum  mil- 
liaribus  xn  vel  amplius  a-  Coslovid  distal.  Arcem  lapideam,  templum,  et 
specus  sub  arce,  et  ex  adverso  arcis  miro  opere  ex  petrd  cxcisos,  ha  bet; 
nam  in  monte  maxima  ct  altissimo  sita  est,  ac  inde  ti  speculus  a  Turds 
cognomen  retinet.  Oppidum  quondam  non  ignobile,  opibus  refertum,  cele- 
berrimum,  et  natura  loci  maxims  admirandum,  copiosissimumqueextitit. 

Ingermeni  arcem  satis  et  magnificam  it,  Prindpibus  Gradt 

extruclam  fuisse  apparet:  namportce  et  ccdiftcia  adhuc  nonnulla  integra 
Greeds  characteribus  exornata,  et  cum  insignibus  eorum  insculpta  con- 
spiduntur.  Acpei-  universum  ilium  istkmum  quondam  ibi  usque  ad  urbit 
mamia  (edifida  suntptuosa  extitisse,  puteos  excavatos  ittfinitos,  qui  adhuc 
fere  plurimi  sunt  integri;  ad  extremum  vero  duas  vias  Regias  granges 
lapidibus  stratas  esse,  certo  apparet."  Martini  Broniovii  Tartaria. 
Lug.  Bat.  1630. 


VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA.  297 

to  enjoy  the  delightful  breezes  of  the  evening —  CHAP, 
a  fever ;  in  short,  such  is  the  dangerous  nature 
of  the  climate  to  strangers,  that  Russia  must 
consider  the  country  as  a  ccemetery  for  the 
troops  which  are  sent  to  maintain  its  possession. 
This  is  not  the  case  with  regard  to  its  native 
inhabitants,  the  Tahtars:  the  precautions  they 
use,  added  to  long  experience,  insure  their 
safety.  Upon  the  slightest  change  of  weather, 
they  are  seen  wrapped  up  in  sheep-skins,  and 
covered  by  thick  felts ;  while  their  heads  are 
swathed  in  numerous  bandages  of  linen,  or 
guarded  by  warm  stuffed  caps,  fenced  with 
wool. 

The  Tahtar  Nobles  of  the  Crimea,  or  Moorza, 
as  they  are  called,  by  a  name  answering  to  the 
Persian  word  Mirza,  so  common  in  our  Oriental 
tales,  amount  in  number  to  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty.  Their  dress  is  altogether  Circassian, 
excepting  that  the  cap  is  larger  than  the  sort  of 
covering  worn  on  the  head  by  the  princes  of 
Mount  Caucasus.  Their  figure  on  horseback  is 
in  the  highest  degree  stately.  Among  all 
the  Crimean  Tahtars,  of  whatsoever  rank,  an 
elegance  of  manners  may  be  remarked:  this, 
although  perhaps  common  to  Oriental  nations, 
affords  a  striking  opposition  to  the  boorish 
figure  of  a  Russian.  It  is  diverting  to  see  them 


298  VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA. 

CHAP,     converse  together :  the  Tahtar  has,  in  common 
with  the  Russian,  an  impetuosity  and  eagerness 
in  uttering  his  expressions ;  but  it  is  zeal  very 
differently  characterized.     The  Tahtar  may  be 
said  to  exhibit  the  playful  flexibility  and  varying 
posture  of  the  leopard;  while  the  Russian,  rather 
resembling  the   bear,  is   making   an  aukward 
parade   of  his  paws.     The  dress  of  a  Tahtar 
nobleman   displays  as  much  taste  as   can  be 
shewn  by  a  habit  which  is  necessarily  decorated 
with  gold  and  silver  lace :  it  is  neither  heavily 
laden  with  ornament,  nor  are  the  colours  tawdry. 
The  nobles  sometimes  delight  in  strong  contrast, 
by  opposing  silver  lace  to  black  velvet,  for  their 
caps ;    scarlet   or   rose-coloured   silk    to   dark 
cloth,  for  their  vest  or  pelisse ;  but,  in  general, 
the  dress  of  a  Tahtar  of  distinction  is  remarkable 
for  its  simple  elegance,  as  well  as  for  its  clean- 
liness.   Their  favourite  colour  in  cloth  is  drab ; 
and  the  grey  or  white  wool,  for  their  winter 
caps,  is,  of  all  other  ornaments,  the  most  in 
esteem.    The  Russian  peasant,  being  of  a  dimi- 
nutive race,  and  connected  with  the  Laplander, 
as  the  next  link  in  the  chain  between  him  and 
the  pigmy,  is  naturally  of  a  lively  disposition ; 
he  is  never  completely  aukward,  except  when 
metamorphosed  as  a  soldier.     The  moment  he 
enters   the   ranks,  all  the  brisk   and  cheerful 
expression   of  his   countenance    is    gone;    he 


VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA.  299 

then  appears  a  chopfallen,  stupid,  brow-beaten,    CHAP. 
sullen  clown.     The  Russian  commanders  may          ' 
class  under   the   same   description;  with  this 
difference,  that  they  are   more  profligate.     A 
Russian  Prince  and  a  Russian  peasant  exhibit 
the  same  striking  traits  of  national  character1. 

Upon   the   rocks  behind  the  house  of  Mr. 

Hablitz- 

Hablitz,   we   found   the   identical   plant  Pallas  tana. 
distinguished  by  the  name  of  his  friend,  Salvia 
Hablitziana,  growing  in  great  abundance.     Mr. 

(1)  Hutler,  with  singular  felicity  of  delineation,  has  afforded,  in  his 
Hudibras,  so  faithful  a  portrait  of  a  Russian  General,  that  no  person 
acquainted  with  the  country  will  read  it,  without  acknowledging  the 
representation  to  be  as  accurate  as  if  Potemkin  himself  had  sat  for  the 
picture : 

"  He  was  by  birth,  some  authors  write, 
A  Russian,  some  a  Muscovite, 
AW  'mong  the  Cossacks  had  been  bred, 
Of  whom  we  in  diurnals  read, 
That  serve  to  fill  up  pages  here, 
As  with  their  bodies  ditches  there1, 
Scrimansky  was  his  cousin-gerraan, 
With  whom  he  served,  and  fed  on'vermin  : 
And  when  these  failed  he'd  suck  his  claws, 
And  quarter  himself  upon  his  paws. 
And  though  his  countrymen,  the  Huns,    . 
Did  stew  their  meat  between  their  bums 
And  th'  horses'  backs,  o'er  which  they  straddle, 
And  every  man  eat  up  his  saddle; 
He  was  not  half  so  nice  as  they, 
But  eat  it  raw  when  't  came  in  his  way." 

Hudib.  Part  I.  Cant.  2. 

(2)  Potemkin  died  in  a  ditch  near  Yassy ;  and  after  his  interment  in 
the  church  at  Cherson,  his  body  was  taken  up,  by  order  of  the  Emperor 
PAUL,  and  cast  into  the  fosse  of  the  fortress. 


300  VALLEY  OF  TCHORGONA. 

CHAP,  ffablitz  first  observed  it  upon  the  spot  whence 
•  -T-'  '  we  derived  our  specimens,  and  he  sent  the 
seed  to  Pallas  in  Petersburg.  The  plant  is 
however  still  uncommonly  rare.  As  a  perennial, 
it  may  be  sown  in  common  garden  soil  in  the 
open  air;  and  it  increases  annually  in  size, 
until  it  becomes  a  fine  tall  shrub  of  very  great 
beauty.  We  afterwards  brought  it  to  the 
Botanic  Garden  in  Cambridge;  where  it  also 
succeeded,  but  it  has  never  equalled  the  size  it 
attains  in  Russia.  In  the  Crimea  the  blossom  is 
larger,  and  the  flowers  are  more  abundant,  than 
upon  the  English  specimens. 

From  Tchorgona  we  returned  again  to  Shulu, 
and  from  thence  to  Kara  Ilaes,  where  we  passed 
the  night  in  the  palace  of  a  Taktar  nobleman, 
upon  the  sort  of  sofa  called  divan,  which  always 
surrounds  the  principal  apartment  of  a  Tahtarian 
or  Turkish  palace.  Here  we  were  covered 
by  bugs  and  by  fleas  of  the  most  enormous 
size;  they  came  upon  us  like  ants  from  an 
ant-hill.  The  next  day  we  drove  pleasantly 
Return  to  to  Ahmetcket,  and  once  more  shared  the  com- 
forts of  the  Professor's  hospitable  mansion; 
regretting  only  the  fever  with  which  he  was 
afflicted  in  consequence  of  an  excursion,  other- 
wise considered  by  us  the  most  agreeable  we 
had  ever  made. 


CHAP.  VIII. 


FROM  THE  CRIMEA,  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF 
PERECOP,  TO  NICHOLAEF. 

Journey  to  Koslof- — Result  of  the  Expedition — Return  to 
Akmetchet  —  Marshal  B'ilerstein —  Departure  from 
Akmetchet — Perecop — Salt  Harvest  — Nagay  Tahtars — 
Rana  variabilis — General  Survey  of  the  Crimea — 
Country  north  of  the  Isthmus — Facility  of  travelling  in 
Russia — Banditti  of  the  Ukraine — Anecdote  of  a  despe- 
rate Robber — Intrepid  Conduct  of  a  Courier — Caravans 
— Biroslaf — Cherson — Burial  of  Potemkin — Recent 


302  JOURNEY  TO  KOSLOF. 

disposal  of  his  lody — Particulars  of  the  death  of  Howard 
— Order  of  his  Funei-al — Tomb  of  Howard — Nicholaef. 
CHAP      ^["MT" 

viii.  W  E  left  Akmetchet  for  Koslof,  on  the  twenty- 
journey  to  eighth  of  September,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a 
passage  to  Constantinople,  on  board  a  Turkish 
brigantine,  Captain  Osman  Rees.  From  what- 
ever port  of  the  Russian  empire  our  escape 
might  be  effected,  we  knew  it  would  be  attended 
with  considerable  hazard.  We  had  been  denied 
a  passport  from  Government  to  that  effect, 
and  we  had  every  reason  to  be  convinced  none 
would  be  speedily  granted.  After  waiting  many 
months,  in  vain  expectation  of  a  release  from  the 
oppressive  tyranny  then  exercised  over  English- 
men  by  every  Russian  they  encountered,  female  in- 
terest in  Petersburg  accomplished  our  delivery  *. 
A  forged  order  from  the  Sovereign  was  exe- 
cuted, and  sent  to  us:  by  means  of  which,  in 
spite  of  the  vigilance  of  the  police,  we  contrived 
to  leave  the  country.  It  is  proper  to  state  this 
circumstance,  lest  any  of  those,  by  whom  we 
were  so  hospitably  entertained,  should  hereafter 
be  considered  as  having  been  accessary  to  our 
flight.  Koslof  was  fixed  upon,  as  a  place  the 


(l)  Nothing  but  the  dangerous  consequences  of  a  more  explicit 
acknowledgment  prevents  the  author  from  naming  the  Friend  to  whom 
he  was  thus  indebted. 


KOSLOF.  303 

least  liable  to  those  researches,  on  the  part  of   CHAP. 

VIII. 

spies  and  custom-house  officers,  which  were  «  ,.„..  > 
likely  to  impede  our  departure.  Having  crossed 
the  steppes  leading  to  this  place,  we  arrived 
there  in  the  middle  of  the  night.  Such  a  tre- 
mendous storm  of  thunder,  lightning,  wind,  hail, 
and  rain,  came  on  before  we  reached  the  town,  that 
our  horses  refused  to  proceed;  and  we  were 
compelled  to  halt,  opposing  our  backs  to  its 
fury,  until  the  violence  of  the  tempest  subsided8. 

As  soon  as  morning  dawned,  we  caused  our 
baggage  to  be  sealed  at  the  custom-house ;  and 
agreed  for  our  passage,  at  the  enormous  rate  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  roubles :  this  was  deemed 
by  us  a  moderate  sum,  as  the  original  demand 
had  been  six  hundred.  The  common  rate  of  a 
passenger  from  Koslof  to  Constantinople  is  not 
more  than  ten;  but  it  was  evident  that  the 
Turks,  suspecting  the  nature  of  our  situation, 


(2)  Owing  to  sleeping  in  this  situation,  exposed  to  the  miasmata  of 
salt-marshes,  causing  a  somnolency  it  is  impossible  to  resist,  a  quartan 
fever  which  the  author  had  so  long  combated  was  again  renewed. 
Mr.  Cripps  was  also  attacked,  but  with  different  effect;  a  sore  throat, 
attended  by  a  cutaneous  eruption  covering  his  whole  body,  and  from 
which  he  was  soon  relieved,  was  all  the  consequence  to  him  of  the 
vapours  to  which  he  had  been  exposed.  These  observations  cannot  be 
reconciled  to  the  account  Pallas  afterwards  published  of  the  exha- 
lations from  the  stagnant  lakes  near  Koslof.  He  says,  (vol.  II.  p.  489) 
they  contribute  greatly  to  the  salubrity  of  the  town,  and  that  inter- 
mittent fevers  are  less  frequent  here  than  at  other  places. 


304  KOSLOF. 

CHAP,    wished  to  make  of  us  a  booty.     When  all  was 

VIII 

settled,  the  inspector  of  the  customs,  to  our 
great  dismay,  accompanied  by  several  officers, 
came  to  assure  us,  that  the  town  would  not  be 
responsible  for  our  safety,  if  we  ventured  to 
embark  in  the  brigantine :  this  they  described 
as  being  so  deeply  laden,  that  she  was  already 
nine  inches  below  her  proper  poise  in  the  water. 
The  Captain  had,  moreover,  two  shallops  of 
merchandize  to  take  on  board,  and  sixty-four 
passengers.  Some  Armenians  had  already 
removed  their  property  from  the  vessel;  and  it 
was  said  she  was  so  old  and  rotten,  that  her 
seams  would  open  if  exposed  to  any  tempestuous 
weather.  The  Captain,  a  bearded  Turk,  like 
all  the  mariners  of  his  country,  was  a  stanch 
predestinarian :  this  circumstance,  added  to  his 
avarice,  rendered  him  perfectly  indifferent  to  the 
event.  As  commander  of  the  only  ship  in  the 
harbour  bound  for  Constantinople,  he  had  been 
induced  to  stow  the  cargoes  of  two  ships  within 
his  single  vessel.  This  often  happens  with 
Turkish  merchantmen  in  the  Black  Sea,  and  it  is 
one  of  the  causes  of  their  numerous  disasters. 
To  prove  the  extent  of  the  risk  they  will  en- 
counter, it  may  be  added,  that,  after  our  return  to 
Akmetchet,  the  captain  filled  his  cabin  with  four 
hundred  cantars  of  honey ;  and  Professor  Pallas 
was  offered  a  thousand  roubles  to  obtain  the 


KOSLOF.  305 

Governor's  acquiescence  in  an  additional  contra- 
band  cargo  of  two  thousand  bulls'  hides;  the 
exportation  of  this  article  being,  at  that  time, 
strictly  prohibited. 

Koslof1  derives  its  name  from  a  Tahtar  com- 
pound, Gits  I'ove ;  the  origin  of  which  cannot  be 
distinctly  ascertained.  Gus  signifies  *  an  eye/ 
and  Ove  'a  hut.'  The  Russians,  with  their 
usual  ignorance  of  antient  geography,  bestowed 
upon  it  the  name  of  Eupatorium.  It  has  been 
shewn  already,  that  Eupatorium  stood  in  the 
Minor  Peninsula  of  the  Heracleotte,  near  the  city 
of  Chersonesus.  As  to  the  present  state  of  the 
place  itself,  it  is  one  of  those  wretched  remnants 
of  the  once  flourishing  commercial  towns  of  the 
Crimea,  which  exemplify  the  effects  of  Russian 


(l)  "At  Koslof,  or  Eupatoria,  I  remember  nothing  interesting: 
but  in  the  desert  near  it,  we  saw  some  parties  of  the  Nagay  Tahtars, 
and  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  their  kibitkas,  which  are  shaped 
something  like  a  bee-hive,  consisting  of  a  frame  of  wood  covered  with 
felt,  and  placed  upon  wheels.  They  are  smaller  and  more  clumsy 
than  the  tents  of  the  Kalmucks,  and  do  not,  like  them,  take  to  pieces. 
In  the  Crimea,  they  are  more  used  for  the  occasional  habitation  of  the 
shepherd,  than  for  regular  dwellings.  We  saw  a  great  many  buffaloes 
and  camels :  several  of  the  latter  we  met  drawing  in  the  two-wheeled 
carts  described  before,  a  service  for  which  I  should  have  thought  them 
not  so  well  adapted  as  for  bearing  burthens  ;  and  although  '  a  chariot 
of  camels'  is  mentioned  by  Isaiah,  I  do  not  remember  having  heard  of 
such  a  practice  elsewhere.  The  plain  of  Koslof  is  hardly  elevated  above 
the  sea,  and  fresh  water  is  very  scarce  and  bad."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


306  KOS-LOF. 

CHAP,  do-minion.  Its  trade  is  annihilated;  its  houses 
are  in  ruins;  its  streets  are  desolate;  the 
splendid  mosques,  with  which  it  was  adorned, 
are  unroofed;  the  minarets  have  been  thrown 
down;  its  original  inhabitants  were  either 
banished  or  murdered ;  all  that  we  found  re- 
maining, were  a  few  sneaking  Russian  officers 
of  the  police  and  customs,  with  here  and  there 
a  solitary  Turk  or  Tahtar,  smoking  among  the 
ruins,  and  sighing  over  the  devastation  he 
beheld.  Its  commerce  was  once  of  very  con- 
siderable importance.  Its  port  contained  fifty 
vessels  at  the  same  time ;  a  great  number,  con- 
sidering that  the  other  ports  of  the  Crimea  had 
each  their  portion.  We  found  them  reduced  to 
one  accidental  rotten  brigantine,  the  precarious 
speculation  of  a  few  poor  Turkish  mariners; 
who,  although  common  sailors  on  board,  shared 
equally  with  the  Captain  the  profit  of  the  voyage. 
In  better  times,  Koslof,  from  her  crowded  shores, 
exported  wool,  butter,  hides,  fur,,  and  corn. 
The  corn  has  now  risen  to  such  a  price,  that  it 
is  no  longer  an  article  of  exportation  :  the  wool, 
fur,  and  hides,  are  prohibited.  In  short,  as  a 
commercial  town,  it  no  longer  exists.  The  only 
ship,  which  had  left  the  port  previous  to  our 
arrival,  sailed  with  a  determination  to  return  no 
more ;  not  only  on  account  of  the  length  of  time 
required  in  procuring  a  cargo,  but  owing  to  the 


RETURN  TO  AKMETCHET.  307 

bribery  and  corruption  it  was  necessary  to 
satisfy,  in  order  to  get  away4. 

In  returning  to  Akmetchet,  we  halted  to  water  Return  to 

.  i         ii-  Akmetchet. 

our  horses  in  the  steppes,  where  the  dwellings 
were  entirely  subterraneous.  Not  a  house  was 
to  be  seen;  but  there  were  some  holes,  as 
entrances,  in  the  ground :  through  one  of  these 
we  descended  into  a  cave,  rendered  almost 
suffocating  by  the  heat  of  a  stove  for  dressing 
the  victuals  of  its  poor  owners.  The  walls,  the 
floor,  and  the  roof,  were  all  of  the  natural  soil. 
If  such  retreats  were  the  original  abodes  of 
mankind,  the  art  of  constructing  habitations 
was  borrowed  from  badgers,  foxes,  and  rabbits. 
At  present,  such  dwellings  are  principally,  if 
not  solely,  tenanted  by  shepherds  of  the  Crimea; 
who  dig  these  places  for  their  residence  during 
winter. 

Having  failed  in  the  object  of  our  journey  to 
Koslof,  we  prepared  to  leave  the  Peninsula  by 

(°2)  Pallas's  account  of  Koslnf  is  only  applicable  to  its  former  state. 
"  In  the  year  1793,  for  instance,  one  hundred  and  seventy-six  vessels 
were  freighted  with  corn,  salt,  and  leather;  and  the  short  route  by 
which  goods  are  conveyed  hither,  by  the  Nagays,  and  by  the  Tahtars 
inhabiting  the  banks  of  the  Dnieper,  affords  the  greatest  facility  to  the 
corn  trade."  Travels,  vol.11,  p  49\.  This  town  is  thus  men- 

tioned by  Broniovius:  "  Coslovia  oppidum  ad  dextram  Perecojnce  ad  mare 
sitnm  milliaribut  septem  distal.  Emporio  non  ignoUK,  prafectum  arris 
et  oppidi  Chanus  proprium  et  perpetvum  ilrt  habet."  Descriptio  Turta- 
ritr,  p.  256.  Lug.  Bat.  1630. 

VOL.  II.  X 


308  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP,  another  route,  and  to  attempt  a  journey  by  land 
1 *— — '  to  Constantinople.  For  this  purpose  we  dis- 
patched letters  to  our  Ambassador  at  the  Porte, 
requesting  an  escort  of  Janissaries  to  meet  us 
at  Yassy.  The  evening  before  we  took  our  final 
leave  ofAkmetchet  was  enlivened  by  the  company 

Marshal  and  conversation  of  Marshal  Blberstein,  a  literary 
friend  of  the  Professor's,  who  had  been  recently 
travelling  along  the  Volga,  the  shores  of  the  Cas- 
pian, and  in  Caucasus.  He  was  two  years  an  exile 
in  the  Isle  of  Taman,  where  he  had  amused  him- 
self with  the  study  of  Botany,  and  the  antiquities 
of  the  country.  He  brought  several  new  plants 
to  the  Professor,  and  confirmed  the  observations 
we  had  before  made  upon  the  Cimmerian  Bos- 
porus. We  had,  moreover,  the  satisfaction  to 
find,  that  the  map  we  had  prepared  to  illustrate 
the  antient  geography  of  the  Crimea  agreed 
with  his  own  observations  upon  that  subject. 
In  answer  to  our  inquiries  concerning  the 
relative  height  of  the  Alps  and  the  Caucasian 
chain  of  mountains,  he  said,  that  the  Alps  are 
no  where  so  elevated;  and  mentioned  Mount 
Chat1  as  being  higher  than  Mont  Blanc.  Being 


(1)  Now  called  Elborus  by  the  Circassians,  according  to  its  antient 
name.  It  has  two  points  at  its  summit;  and  is  visible  from  the  fortress 
of  Stavropole,  on  the  Caucasian  line,  a  distance  of  three  hundred  versts. 
Its  base  descends  into  a  swampy  impassable  plain,  and  this  plain  equals 
in  elevation  the  tops  of  the  neighbouring  mountains. 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  309 

questioned  about  the  tribe  of  the  Turcoman™,    CVIIL' 

now  called  Turkmen,   and  Truckmejizi,  by  the  v * — ' 

Tahtars,  he  described  them  as  a  race  of  very 
rich  nomades,  still  numerous  in  the  steppes  near 
Astrackan ;  remarkable  for  great  personal  beauty, 
as  well  as  for  their  patient  endurance  of  the 
unjust  taxes  and  heavy  exactions  required  of 
them  by  the  neighbouring  Governors. 

The  Equinox  brought  with  it  a  series  of  Departure 
tempestuous  weather,  which  continued  until  Akmetcket. 
.the  tenth  of  October.  Upon  this  day  the  violence 
of  the  wind  abated;  and  a  second  summer 
ensuing,  we  took  a  final  leave  of  our  friends, 
quitting,  for  ever,  their  hospitable  society. 
Professor  Pallas  set  out  for  his  vineyards  at 
Sudakt,  and  we  took  our  route  across  the 
steppes,  towards  Perecop.  The  late  storms  had 
destroyed  even  the  small  produce  of  the  vines, 
upon  the  coast,  which  the  locusts  had  spared. 

(2)  Autiently  "Sieuyw,  Sogihtia,  Sudagra,  and  Sugdaia.  This  city 
rose  to  such  celebrity  by  its  commerce,'  that  all  the  Greek  possessions 
in  the  Crimea  were  called  Sugdama.  (Storch.  torn.  I.  p.  172.)  It  had 
a  triple  fortress  ;  and  it  is  noticed  by  Braniovius  and  by  Thuanus.  (See 
tlie  Additional  Notes  at  the  end  of  this  Volume.)  A  curious  etymology  of 
this  word,  as  it  is  now  pronounced  (Sudak),  occurs  in  Gale's  Court  of 
the  Gentiles,  I.  ii.  c.  1.  p.  200.  Ojcon.  16&'9.  Jt  is  founded  upon  an 
extract  from  Eitsclius,  Prcepar.  lib.'i.  "E*5«  <roZ  2t/5ux  Aioffxeupu  >J  Ka/3j^«i 
— '  From  Si/dyk  sprang  the  Dioscuri  or  Cabiri.'  "  We  find  the  like," 
continues  the  learned  Gale,  "  mentioned  by  IJamascius  in  Rhotius-. 
"Sctouxa  yu.f  lyivoTa  tfittei;,  cu;  &iairxr,vpw;  'iffnnooufft  xiti  Kafiilpev;—-  Sajyh 
legat  children,  which  they  inier^rt-t  Dioscuri  and  Cabin.'  "  First, 

X  2  Sydyk, 


310  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

• 
CHAP.    Some  fruit-trees  put  forth  a  premature  blossom : 

and  we  found  the  plains  covered  with  the  gaudy 
and  beautiful  flowers  of  the  autumnal  crocus. 
Their  bulbs  were  very  deep  in  the  soil :  this 
consists  of  a  rich  black  vegetable  earth.  The 
Taurican  chain  of  mountains,  with  the  summit 
of  Tchetirdagh  towering  above  the  rest,  appeared 
very  conspicuous  about  the  south.  Towards 
the  north,  the  whole  country  exhibited  a  bound- 
less flat  plain,  upon  which  caravans  were  passing, 
laden  with  water-melons,  cucumbers,  cabbages, 
and  other  vegetables :  these,  with  the  exception 
of  antient  tumuli,  were  almost  the  only  objects 
we  observed.  Some  of  the  vehicles  were 
drawn  by  camels,  and  were  principally  destined 
for  Koslof.  We  travelled  all  night:  in  the 
morning,  at  sun-rise,  we  were  roused  by  our 
interpreter,  a  Greek,  who  begged  we  would 
notice  an  animal,  half  flying  and  half  running, 
among  the  herbs.  It  was  &  jerboa,  the  quadruped 
already  noticed  in  a  former  chapter1.  We 

Sydyh,  or  Sadyk,  was  a  Phoenician  God,  answering  to  the  Grecian  Jupiter ; 
and  no  other  than  a  Satanic  Ape,  of  the  sacred  name  j?»TO  (SaddiK), 
attributed  to  the  true  God  of  Israel,  as  Psalm  119,  137,  and  else- 
where. Thus,  in  two  instances  of  Grecian  cities  in  the  Crimea,  we 
have  appellations  derived  from  the  most  antient  names  of  the  Deity 
among-  Eastern  nations :  ARDAUDA,  or  EHTAQEOX,  a  name  of  Theo- 
dosia;  and  SYDYK,  or  SADYK,  preserved  in  the  present  appellation, 
SVDAK.  Hence  we  may  also  explain  the  meaning  of  the  Persian  name 
SADIG,  or  ZADIG. 
(1)  See  p.  166  of  this  Volume. 


TO    NICHOLAEF.  311 

caught  it  with  some  difficulty;  and  should  not    CHAP. 

J  VIIL 

have  succeeded,  but  for  the  cracking  of  a  large 
whip ;  this  terrified  it  so  much,  that  it  lost  all 
recollection  of  its  burrow.  Its  leaps  were 
extraordinary  for  so  small  an  animal ;  some- 
times to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  yards,  but 
in  no  determinate  direction:  it  bounded  back- 
wards and  forwards,  without  ever  quitting  the 
vicinity  of  the  place  where  it  was  found.  The 
most  singular  circumstance  in  its  nature  is  the 
power  it  possesses  of  altering  its  course  when 
in  the  air.  It  first  leaps  perpendicularly  from 
the  ground,  to  the  height  of  four  feet  or  more ; 
and  then,  by  a  motion  of  its  tail,  with  a  clicking 
noise,  it  bears  off  in  whatsoever  direction  it 
chooses. 

From  the  appearance  which  Perecop 2  makes 


(2)  "  At  Perekop  are  only  one  or  two  houses,  Inhabited  by  the 
postmaster  and  custom-house  officers;  and  a  little  barrack.  The 
famous  wall  is  of  earth,  very  lofty,  with  an  immense  ditch.  Jt  stretches 
in  a  straight  line  from  sea  to  sea,  without  any  remains  of  bastions  or 
Hanking1  towers,  that  I  could  discover.  The  Golden  Gate  is  narrow, 
and  too  low  for  an  English  waggon.  Goldf.n,  among  the  Tahtars,  seems 
synonymous  with  Royal ;  and  thus  we  hear  of  the  Golden  horde,  the 
Golden  tent,  &c.  Colonel  Symes  mentions  the  same  manner  of 
expression  in  Ava  ;  so  that  I  suppose  it  is  common  all  over  the  East. 
There  is  only  one  well  at  Perekop,  the  water  of  which  is  brackish  and 
muddy.  A  string  of  near  two  hundred  kibitkas  were  passing,  laden 
with  salt,  and  drawn  by  oxen  :  they  were  driven  by  Malo-Russians,  who 
had  brought  corn  into  the  Crimea,  and  were  returning  with  their  pre- 
sent cargo.  White  or  clarified  salt  is  unknown  iu  the  South  of  Russia; 

it 


312  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PEKECOP, 

CHAP.    jn  a]}  the  maps  of  this  country,  it  might  be 
expected   that   a   tolerable   fortress   would  be 


it  appears,  even  on  the  best  tables,  with  the  greater  part  of  its  impu- 
rities adhering,  and  consequently  quite  brown.  Kibitkas,  laden  with 
this  commodity,  form  a  kiud  of  caravan.  They  seldom  go  out  of  their 
way  for  a  town  or  village,  but  perform  long  journeys ;  the  drivers  only 
sheltered  at  night  on  the  lee-side  of  their  carriages,  and  stretched  on 
the  grass.  During  the  independence  of  the  Crimea,  (an  old  officer  told 
tne),  these  people  were  always  armed,  and  travelled  without  fear  of  the 
Tah tars,  drawing  up  their  waggons  every  night  in  a  circle,  and  keeping 
regular  sentries.  We  here,  with  great  regret,  quitted  the  Crimea  and 
its  pleasing  inhabitants:  h  was  really  like  being  turned  out  of  Paradise, 
when  we  abandoned  those  beautiful  mountains,  and  again  found  our- 
selves in  the  vast  green  desert,  which  had  before  tired  us  so  thoroughly; 
where  we  changed  olives  and  cypresses,  clear  water  and  fresh  milk,  for 
reeds,  long  grass,  and  the  draining?  of  marshes,  only  made  not  poisonous 
by  being  mixed  with  brandy;  ami  when,  instead  of  a  clean  carpet  at 
night,  anda  supper  of  eggs,  butter,  honey,  and  sweetmeats,  wereturned 
to  the  seat  of  our  carriage,  and  the  remainder  of  our  old  cheese. 

"  Pallas  has  properly  distinguished  the  two  distinct  races  of  Tahtars, 
the  Nogays  and  the  mountaineers.  These  last,  however,  appeared  to 
me  to  resemble  in  their  persons  the  Turks  and  the  Tahtars  of  Kostroma 
and  Yaroslaf.  They  are  a  fair  and  hand-some  people,  like  the  Tahtars 
in  the  north  of  Russ;a,  given  to  agriculture  and  commerce,  and  here,  as 
well  as  there,  decidedly  different  from  the  Nogays,  or  other  Mongul 
tribes.  The  Nogays,  however,  in  the  Crimea,  appear  to  have  greatly 
improved  their  breed  by  intermarriages  with  the  original  inhabitants, 
being  much  handsomer  and  taller  than  those  to  the  north  of  the  Golden 
Gate.  The  mountaineers  have  large  bushy  beards  when  old ;  the 
Tahtars  of  the  Plain  seldom  possess  more  than  a  few  thin  hairs.  The 
mountaineers  are  clumsy  horsemen,  in  which  they  resemble  the  north- 
ern Tahtars.  Their  neighbours  ride  very  boldly,  and  well.  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  two  Nogay  shepherd-boys,  who  were  galloping 
their  horses  near  Koslof,  and  who  shewed  an  agility  and  dexterity 
which  were  really  surprising.  While  the  horse  was  in  full  speed,  they 
sprung  from  their  seats,  stood  upright  on  the  saddle,  leapt  on  the 
ground,  and  again  into  the  saddle ;  and  threw  their  whips  to  some 
distance,  and  caught  them  up  from  the  ground.  What  was  more 
remarkable,  we  ascertained  that  they  were  merely  shepherds,  and  that 

these 


TO   NICHOLAEF.  313 


found  here,  to  guard  the  passage  of  the  Isthmus:    CHAP. 
yet  nothing  can  be  imagined  more  wretched 


these  accomplishments  were  not  extraordinary.  Both  mountaineers 
and  shepherds  are  amiable,  gentle,  and  hospitable,  except  where  they 
iMve  been  soured  by  their  Russian  masters.  We  never  approached  a 
village  at  night-fall,  where  we  were  not  requested  to  lodge  j  or  in  the 
day-time,  without  being  invited  to  eat  and  drink :  and,  while  they 
were  thus  attentive,  they  uniformly  seemed  careless  about  payment, 
even  for  the  horses  they  furnished;  never  counting  the  money,  and 
often  offering  to  go  away  without  it.  They  are  steady  in  refusing 
Russian  money ;  and  it  is  necessary  to  procure  a  sufficient  stock  of 
usluks,  paras,  and  sequins.  This  is  not  their  only  way  of  shewing 
their  dislike  to  their  new  masters  :  at  one  village  we  were  surprised  at 
our  scanty  fare,  and  the  reluctance  with  which  every  thing  was  fur- 
nished, till  we  learnt  they  had  mistaken  us  for  Russian  officers.  On 
finding  that  we  were  foreigners,  the  eggs,  melted  butter,  nardek,  and 
bekmess,  came  in  profusion*  General  Bardakof  told  us  they  were 
fond  of  talking  politics  :  when  we  addressed  them  on  this  subject,  they 
were  reserved,  and  affected  an  ignorance  greater  than  I  thought  likely 
or  natural.  Pallas  complained  of  them  as  disaffected,  and  spoke  much 
of  their  idleness.  Yet  their  vineyards  are  very  neatly  kept,  and 
carefully  watered ;  and,  what  is  hardly  a  sign  of  indolence,  their 
houses,  clothes,  and  persons,  are  uniformly  clean.  But  his  account 
seemed  to  me  by  no  means  sufficiently  favourable.  They  are,  I  appre- 
hend, a  healthy  race ;  but  we  met  one  instance  where  a  slight  wound 
had,  by  neglect,  become  very  painful  and  dangerous.  On  asking  what 
remedies  they  had  for  diseases,  they  returned  a  remarkable  answer : 
'  We  lay  down  the  sick  man  on  a  led;  and,  if  it  please  God,  he  recovers. 
Allah  Kerim  >'  Their  women  are  concealed,  even  more  (the  Duke  of 
Richelieu  said)  than  the  wives  of  Turkish  peasants ;  and  are  greatly 
agitated  and  distressed  if  seen,  for  a  moment,  without  a  veil.  Like 
the  men,  they  have  very  fair  and  clear  complexions,  with  dark  eyes  and 
hair,  and  aquiline  noses.  Among  the  men  were  some  figures  which 
might  have  served  for  models  of  a  Hercules ;  and  the  mountaineers 
have  a  very  strong  and  nimble  step  in  walking.  An  Imaum,  who 
wears  a  green  turban,  and  who  is  also  generally  the  schoolmaster,  is 
in  every  village.  Not  many,  however,  of  the  peasants  could  read  or 
write ;  and  they  seemed  to  pay  but  little  attention  to  the  regular  hours 
of  prayer."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


314  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP,    than  the  hamlet  which  supplies,  with  quarters, 
viii. 

a  few  worn-out  invalids.     A  very  inconsiderable 

rampart  extends  from  sea  to  sea :  the  distance 
across  the  Isthmus,  in  the  narrowest  part, 
scarcely  exceeds  five  miles;  the  water  being 
visible  from  the  middle  of  the  passage  on  either 
side.  Upon  the  north  side  of  this  rampart  is  a 
fosse,  twerve  fathoms  wide,  and  twenty-five  feet 
deep ;  but  this  is  now  dry;  and  the  difficulty  of 
filling  it  with  water  is  insuperable,  in  its  present 
state.  The  rest  of  the  fortification,  originally 
a  Turkish  work,  is  in  a  state  of  neglect  and  ruin. 
The  air  of  the  place  is  very  bad ;  consequently, 
the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring  hamlets,  who 
are  chiefly  disbanded  soldiers,  suffer  much  from 
intermittent  fevers1.  Strabo,  with  a  degree  of 
accuracy  which  characterizes  every  page  of  his 
writings  relative  to  the  Crimea,  states  the 
breadth  of  the  Isthmus  as  being  equal  to  forty 
stadia",  or  five  miles.  The  waters  of  the  Black 
Sea  and  of  the  Sea  of  Azof  annually  sustain  a 

(1)  The   author  cannot  account  for  the  remarks   made  by  Pallas 
{.vol.  II. p.  469.)  concerning'  the  air  of  this  place,  and  of  Koslof.   He  says, 
the  saline  effluvia  from  the  Swash  correct  the  otherwise  unwholesome 
nature  of  the  atmosphere;  yet  the  bad  health  of  the  inhabitants  is 
directly  in  contradiction  of  that  statement.     And  again,  in  p.  9,  of  the 
same  volume,  "  During  the  prevalence  of  east  winds,  a  disagreeable 
smell  from  the  Sifash,  or  Putrid  Sea,  is  strongly  perceived  at  Peiecop. 
It  is  nevertheless  believed,  that  these  vapours  preserve  the  inhabitants 
from  those  intermittent  fevers,  formerly  very  frequent  in  the  Crimea." 

(2)  Strab.  Geogr.  lib.  vii.  p.  445.  ed.  Oson. 


TO   NICHOLAEF.  315 

certain  diminution,  which  may  be  proved  by  CHAP. 
observations  upon  all  the  north-western  shores:  ' 
it  is  therefore  natural  to  conclude  that  the 
shallows  upon  either  side  of  the  Isthmus  have 
increased  in  their  extent  since  the  time  when 
Strabo  wrote.  The  following  passage  of  Pliny 
seems  also  to  prove  that  the  Peninsula  was  once 
•an  island2:  "From  Carcinites  begins  Taurica, 
once  surrounded  by  the  sea,  which,  covered  all  the 
campaign  part  of  it."  The  constant  draining  of 
the  great  Eastern  flood  at  length  left  bare  the 
vast  calcareous  deposit  which  had  been  accu- 
mulated beneath  the  waters:  and  this  deposit 
is  now  visible  over  all  those  extensive  plains, 
in  the  South  of  Russia,  which  by  the  Isthmus  of 
Perecop  are  connected  with  the  steppes  of  the 
Crimea.  If  the  waters  of  the  Black  Sea  were  to 
be  once  more  restored  only  to  the  level  of  those 
strata  of  marine  shells  which  may  be  observed 
in  all  the  district  from  the  Mouths  of  the  Dnieper 
to  the  Don,  the  Crimea  would  become  again  an 
island ;  visible  only,  amidst  an  expanse  of  ocean, 
by  the  loftier  masses  of  calcareous  rocks  upon 
its  southern  coast. 

Throughout  the  summer,  Perecop  *  is  a  scene  salt  iiar- 

(2)  Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  iv.  c.  12. 

(:i)  Perecop  is  a  Kussiari  word,  signifying  An  Entrenchment  of  the 
Isthmus.    The  Ta.htar  name  of  this  -place  is  Or-Kapy,  denoting  The 

Gate 


316  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP,  of  bustle  and  commerce.  The  shores,  the  Isthmus, 
and  all  the  neighbouring  steppes,  are  covered 
with  caravans  coming  for  salt ;  consisting  of  wag- 
gons, drawn  sometimes  by  camels,  but  generally 
by  white  oxen,  from  two  to  six  in  each  vehicle. 
Their  freight  is  so  easily  obtained,  that  they 
have  only  to  drive  the  waggons  axle-deep  into 
the  shallow  water  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Isthmus,  and  then  they  may  load  them  as  fast  as 
they  please ;  the  salt  lying  like  sand.  The  sight 
of  so  many  hundred  waggons,  by  fifties  at  a 
time  in  the  water,  is  very  striking ;  they  appear 
like  fleets  of  small  boats  floating  upon  the 
surface  of  the  waves.  The  driver  of  each 
waggon  pays  a  tax  of  ten  roubles  to  the  Crown. 
There  are  various  reservoirs  of  salt  in  the 
Crimea ;  but  those  of  Perecop,  used  from  imme- 
morial time,  are  the  most  abundant,  and  they 
are  considered  as  inexhaustible.  Taurica  Cher- 
sonesus  was  an  emporium  of  this  commodity 
in  the  earliest  periods  of  history  :  it  was  then 
sent,  as  it  is  now,  by  the  Black  Sea,  to  Constan- 
tinople, and  to  the  Archipelago ;  by  land,  to 
Poland,  and  over  all  Russia,  to  Moscow,  to 


Gate  of  the  Fortification."  Pallas'x  Travels,  rol.ll.p.5.  Upon  this 
subject  /inrniovhis  is  also  very  explicit.  "  Nomen  Pracopenses  & 
fossd  halent :  nam  PREZECOP  ipsorum  linguA  fossam  significut." 
Descript.  Tartar,  p.  224.  ed.  Lug.  Bat.  1630.  See  also  his  further 
observations,  in  the  Additional  Notes  at  the  end  of  this  volume. 


TO    NICHOLAEF.  317 

Petersburg,  and  even  to  Riga.  The  oxen,  after  CHAP. 
their  long  journey,  are  occasionally  sold  with 
the  cargoes  they  have  brought ;  and  sometimes 
they  return  again,  the  whole  of  that  immense 
distance,  with  other  merchandize.  The  cara- 
vans halt  every  evening  at  sun-set ;  when  their 
drivers  turn  their  oxen  loose  to  graze,  and  lie 
down  themselves,  in  the  open  air,  to  pass  the 
night  upon  the  steppe.  We  noticed  one,  among 
many  groupes  of  this  kind,  remarkably  inter- 
esting ;  because  it  possessed  the  novelty  of  a 
female ',  whose  features  were  not  concealed 
by  a  veil.  She  was  preparing  to  pass  the 
night,  with  her  child,  upon  the  grass  of  the 
steppe;  preferring  the  canopy  of  heaven  to  that 
of  the  madjar*.  Her  companions  were  of  a 
wild  but  equivocal  race,  among  whom  the 
Tahtar  features  appeared  to  predominate :  they 
were  clothed  in  goat-skins.  Nothing  is  more 
striking  than  the  spectacle  afforded  by  these 
immense  caravans,  slowly  advancing,  each  in 
one  direct  line,  by  hundreds  at  a  time :  they 
exhibit  a  convincing  proof  of  a  very  con- 
siderable internal  commerce  carried  on  by 


(!)  "  Tartari,  suas  mulierex  in  alditis  semper  tenent  loci?."  Michal. 
Lituan.  Fragment,  de  Morib.  Tartarorum.  Lug.  Rat.  1630. 

(2)  The  Tahtar  waggon,  called  Madjar  or  Maggiar,  is  always  of 
the  same  form  and  materials ;  a  long,  narrow  vehicle,  supported  by 
four  wooden  wheels,  without  any  iron  attire. 


518  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP.    Russia  with  the  remotest  provinces  of  her  vast 
empire. 

Another  singular  appearance  at  Perecop  is 
afforded  by  the  concourse  of  Nagay  Tatitars 
frequenting  the  market  for  water-melons,  a 
species  of  fruit  seen  here  of  extraordinary 
size  and  perfection.  These  Tahtars  are  a  very 
different  people  from  the  Tahtars  of  the  Crimea  ; 
they  are  distinguished  by  a  more  dimi- 
nutive form,  and  by  the  dark  copper  colour  of 
their  complexion,  which  is  sometimes  almost 
black.  They  bear  a  remarkable  resemblance 
to  the  Laplanders,  although  their  dress  and 
manner  have  a  more  savage  character.  It  is' 
probable  that  the  Nagay  Tahtar  and  the 
Laplander  were  originally  of  the  same  family, 
difficult  as  it  now  is  to  deduce  the  circumstances 
of  their  origin1.  The  following  fact  may  serve 


(l)  The  subject  of  their  relationship  might  however  have  received 
considerable  illustration,  had  the  writings  of  the  learned  Porthan, 
Professor  of  History  at  the  University  of  Abo  in  Finland,  found  their 
way  to  the  rest  of  Europe.  Excluded  by  his  situation  from  all  inter- 
course with  more  enlightened  seminaries,  his  labours  and  his  name 
have  hardly  reached  the  ears  of  any  literary  society ;  yet  should  his 
lucubrations  survive  the  present  desolating  scourge  by  which  the 
Russians  afflict  those  remote  provinces  of  Sweden,  a  brighter  light  may 
irradiate  the  pages  of  History  ;  and  the  annals  of  mankind  may  derive 
additional  records  from  a  native  of  Fmhmd,  skilled  in  the  language, 
the  traditions,  and  the  mythology  of  his  countrymen. 


TO    NICHOLAEF.  319 

to  point  out  an  original  connection  between  the  CHAP. 
Laplanders  and  Tahtars ;  as  it  is  now  generally 
admitted  that  America  was  peopled  by  colonies 
from  Asia,  passing  the  Aleoutan  Isles.  When 
the  Moravians  made  their  settlement  upon  the 
coast  of  Labrador,  they  employed  a  Greenland 
Interpreter,  in  order  to  converse  with  the 
natives,  who  are  distinguished  by  the  copper- 
coloured  complexion  and  the  features  of  the 
Nagay  Tahtars  and  Laplanders.  The  Crimean 
Tahtar  is  a  person  of  much  more  stately 
demeanour  than  the  Nagay;  he  is  farther 
advanced  in  civilization ;  he  possesses  a  better 
figure ;  and  he  is  often  distinguished  by  very 
engaging  manners.  Many  of  the  Crimean 
Tahtars  annually  leave  the  Crimea,  upon  a  pilgri- 
mage to  Mecca  and  Medina ;  so  that  a  continual 
intercourse  with  other  nations  has  contributed 
to  their  superior  station  in  the  general  scale 
of  society.  A  Crimean  Tahtar  must  either  make 
this  pilgrimage  himself,  once  in  his  life ;  or 
he  must  send  a  representative,  and  defray  the 
expenses  of  the  journey.  Those  pilgrims 
proceed  first  to  Constantinople:  here  the  main 
tody  divides ;  a  part  chusing  the  shortest 
route  by  Alexandria,  where  they  join  the 
Egyptian  caravan,  and  the  rest  advancing  by 
the  way  of  Syria,  to  Damascus,  &c.  The  first 
route  is  liable  to  the  greater  inconvenience, 


320  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP.    as   they   sometimes    suffer  two  or   three   days 
VIIT.  J 

«•     -T-    -  upon  their  march,  from   want   of  water:    the 

Syrian  route  is  therefore  generally  preferred. 
In  their  march,  they  visit  Jerusalem,  the  river 
Jordan,  the  Dead  Sea,  and  other  parts  of  the 
Holy  Land :  the  Mohammedans  entertaining  great 
veneration  for  the  memory  of  Christ,  whom 
they  regard  as  a  Prophet,  although  not  as  the 
Son  of  God.  Persons  who  have  completed 
this  pilgrimage  are  dignified,  after  their  return, 
with  the  title  of  Hadji. 

Ran*  Upon  the   Isthmus  we  again   observed    the 

variabilis. 

revolting  appearance  of  the  sort  of  toad  (Rana 
variabilis}  before  noticed.  This  reptile  swarms 
in  all  the  territory  bordering  the  Sivask,  or 
Putrid  Sea,  to  the  east  of  the  Peninsula.  It 
crawls  even  to  the  tops  of  the  hills,  near  the 
Straits  of  Taman,  and  may  generally  be  con- 
sidered as  an  indication  of  unwholesome  air ; 
for,  where  the  air  is  better  than  usual  in  the 
Crimea,  this  animal  is  proportionally  rare.  It 
burrows  in  the  earth,  like  the  jerboa,  or  the 
rabbit. 

To  a  person  leaving  Perecop,  as  in  approaching 
it,  the  sea  is  visible  upon  both  sides  of  the 
Isthmus.  A  canal  might  therefore  be  formed,  so 
as  to  insulate  the  Crimea,  and  to  render  it  very 


TO    NICHOLAEF.  321 

difficult  of  approach  upon  the  Russian  side.  We  CHAP. 
proceeded  towards  the  Dnieper ;  and  journeyed,  ^ ,  ,v.'-» 
as  before,  over  plains  upon  which  there  is  not 
a  trace  of  any  thing  that  can  properly  be  called 
a  road.  Different  excursions  in  Taurica  had  General 
made  the  whole  Peninsula  familiar  to  our  recol-  ihecw«««. 
lection;  and  we  were  amused  by  considering 
the  probable  surprise  a  traveller  would  expe- 
rience, who,  after  reading  the  inflated  and 
fallacious  descriptions  that  have  been  published 
of  the  Crimean  scenery,  should  pass  the  Isthmus 
of  Perecop,  and  journey,  during  a  day  and  a 
half,  without  beholding  any  other  proofs  of  a 
habitable  country,  or  any  other  object  through- 
out a  flat  and  boundless  desert,  than  a  few 
miserable  peasants,  stationed  at  the  different 
relays  to  supply  horses  for  the  post.  So 
narrow  is  the  tract  of  cultivated  land  upon  the 
southern  coast,  that  it  may  be  compared  to  an 
edging  of  lace  upon  the  lower  hem  of  a  large 
apron.  Beyond  the  Isthmus,  towards  the  north, 
the  plains  were  covered  by  caravans  of  salt, 
and  every  route  was  filled  with  them.  For  the 
rest,  the  appearance  of  the  country  was  pre- 
cisely the  same  as  in  the  north  of  the  Crimea. 
Our  journey,  therefore,  resembled  that  of  De  country 
Rubruquis,  in  the  thirteenth  century ;  and  it  might 
be  fully  described  in  seven  of  his  own  words : — 

"  NULLA     EST     SYLVA,    NULLUS     MONS,    NULLUS 


322  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP.    LAPIS."     The   later   flowers  of  autumn   occa- 

*.    .,-    >  sionally  drew  our  attention  from  an  endeavour 

to  proceed  as  fast  as  possible,  and  we  collected 

several1:     among    others,    an  Arabis,     and   an 

Euphorbia:    the   latter,   Marshal  Bilerstdn    had 

exhibited  at  Akmetchet,  from  his  own  collection, 

as  a  new  species,  found  by  him  in  Caucasus,  and 

in  the  neighbourhood   of  Sarepta.     The  roads 

Facility  of  were,  as  usual,  excellent.     Throughout  all  the 

travelling        _,         .  _          .  .  . 

in  Russia.  South  of  Russia,  excepting  alter  heavy  ram,  me 
traveller  may  proceed  with  a  degree  of  speed 
and  facility  unknown  in  any  other  country.  A 
journey  from  Moscow  to  Zaritzin,  to  Astrachan, 
and  thence,  along  the  whole  Caucasian  line,  to 
the  Straits  of  Toman,  might  be  considered  as  a 
mere  summer  excursion,  for  the  most  part 
easier  and  pleasanter  than  an  expedition  through 
any  part  of  Germany.  The  horses,  of  a  superior 
quality,  are  always  ready :  the  turf,  over  which 
the  roads  extend,  is  excellent,  excepting  during 
the  rainy  season.  Much  greater  expedition 
may  be  used  in  the  same  country,  during 
winter,  by  travelling  upon  sledges,  as  it  is  well 
known. 


(l)The  Woolly  Milfoil,  AcWlea  pttlescens;  Siberian  Bell-flower, 
Campanula  Sibirica ;  Downy  Goldilocks,  Chrysocoma  villosa  ;  Red 
Eyebright,  Eupf.rasia  Odontltes;  &c. 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  323 

The  roads  leading  from  the  Crimea  towards  CHAP. 
the  north  of  Russia  are  supposed  to  be  infested  •»— s — > 
with  bands  of  desperate  robbers,  who  inhabit  thTof 
the  extensive  deserts  lying  to  the  north  of  Lkr 
Peninsula.  Stories  of  this  kind  rarely  amount 
to  more  than  idle  reports.  If  credit  be  given 
to  all  that  is  related  concerning  the  danger  of 
this  route,  it  would  be  madness  to  risk 
the  journey;  but  few  well-attested  instances 
have  occurred,  of  any  interruption  or  hazard 
whatsoever.  Perhaps,  before  the  Crimea  be- 
came subject  to  Russia,  there  was  more  real 
foundation  for  alarm;  because  the  country, 
where  the  banditti  are  said  to  dwell,  then 
constituted  the  frontier  of  Little  Tahtary ;  and, 
in  all  parts  of  the  globe,  frontiers  are  most  liable 
to  evils  of  this  description,  from  the  facility  of 
escape  thereby  offered  to  the  plunderer  or  to 
the  assassin.  From  the  author's  own  experience 
in  almost  every  part  of  Europe,  after  all  the 
tales  he  has  heard  of  the  danger  of  traversing 
this  or  that  country,  he  can  mention  no  place 
so  full  of  peril  as  the  environs  of  London;  where 
there  are  many  persons  passing  at  all  hours  of 
the  day  and  night  with  perfect  indifference,  who 
would  shrink  from  the  thoughts  of  an  expedition 
across  the  deserts  of  Nagay,  or  the  territory 
of  the  Don  Cossacks.  The  Nagay  Tahtars,  from 
their  nomade  life,  are  a  wilder  and  more  savage 

VOL.  II.  Y 


324  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP,  people  than  those  of  the  Crimea,  because  they 
are  altogether  unsettled,  and  therefore  are  as 
barbarous  as  the  Calmucks :  but  their  occupations 
are  pastoral;  and  a  pastoral  condition  of  society 
is  rarely  characterized  by  cruelty,  or  by  acts  of 
open  violence.  Yet,  while  their  whole  attention 
seems  to  be  given  to  the  care  of  their  flocks  and 
herds,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  some  facts 
are  related,  respecting  the  road  from  Moscow  to 
Perecop,  which  are  too  well  authenticated  to 
admit  of  any  dispute.  About  four  years  before 
we  visited  the  Crimea,  the  lady  of  Admiral 
Mordvinof,  travelling  this  way,  attended  by  an 
especial  escort  to  secure  her  from  danger,  and 
a  very  numerous  suite  of  servants,  was  stopped 
by  a  very  formidable  party  of  banditti,  who 
plundered  her  equipage  of  every  thing  worth 
bearing  away.  General  Michehon,  Governor- 
general  of  the  Crimea,  shewed  us,  at  Akmetcliet, 
a  dreadful  weapon,  taken  from  the  hands  of  a 
robber  who  was  discovered  lurking  in  that 
neighbourhood.  It  consisted  of  a  cannon-ball, 
a  two-pounder,  slung  at  the  extremity  of  a 
leathern  thong,  having  a  handle  like  that  of 
a  whip,  whereby  it  might  be  hurled  with 
prodigious  force.  But,  after  all,  it  may  be 
proved,  that  none  of  these  deeds  are  the  work 
of  Tahtars.  The  particular  district  said  to  be 
the  most  dangerous,  in  all  the  road  from  Moscow 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  325 

to  Perecop,  occurs  between  Kremenchuk  and 
Ekaterinoslaf,  upon  the  frontier  of  Poland.  The 
robbers  hitherto  taken  have  been  invariably 
from  that  neighbourhood ;  they  were  inhabitants 
of  the  Tcherno  Laes,  or  Black  Forest,  and  ge- 
nerally from  the  village  of  Zimkoia;  whose 
inhabitants  are  the  remnant  of  the  Zaporogztsi1, 
originally  deserters  and  vagabonds  from  all 
nations.  It  was  from  this  tribe  that  Potemkin 
selected  those  brave  Cossacks  who  are  now 
known  under  the  appellation  of  Tchernomorski> 
and  who  inhabit  Kuban  Tahtary.  Many  of  the 
robbers,  when  taken,  proved  to  be  Polish  Jews; 
and  among  the  party  which  had  robbed  Admiral 
JMbrdvinofs  lady,  some,  who  were  afterwards 
apprehended,  were  Jews  of  this  description. 
The  house  of  Admiral  Mordvinof,  situate  among 
the  mountains  of  the  Crimea,  near  Sudak,  was 
also  attacked  during  the  time  we  resided  at 
Akmetchet;  but,  as  the  Admiral  himself  assured 
us,  the  attack  was  made  with  no  other  view 
than  to  carry  off  some  of  his  poultry.  The 
Admiral  had  been  engaged  in  frequent  acts  of 
litigation  with  the  Tahtars  concerning  the  limits 
of  his  estate ;  and,  as  this  conduct  rendered 
him  unpopular  among  them,  it  perhaps  exposed 
him  to  depredations  that  he  would  not  otherwise 


(1)  See  p.  4,  of  this  Volume. 
Y  2 


326  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP,  have  encountered.  Having  thus  related  a  few 
< — /. — '  facts  which  came  to  our  knowledge,  affecting 
the  character  of  the  Tahtars,  and  the  danger 
of  their  country,  it  may  be  amusing  to  add 
some  examples  of  the  stories  current  in 
the  country:  these,  although  perhaps  less 
authentic,  are  implicitly  believed  by  Russians, 
and  by  other  strangers;  and  they  constitute 
a  common  topic  of  conversation.  The  first 
was  related  to  us  by  a  general-officer  in  the 
Russian  service;  the  second  we  heard  upon 
the  road. 

Anecdote        The  Chief  of  a  very  desperate  gang  of  banditti, 

of  a  despe-  . 

rate  Rob-  who  had    amassed   considerable  wealth,   was 

bc-r 

taken  by  a  soldier,  and  conducted  to  the  Go- 
vernor of  the  province  at  Ehaterinoslaf.  Great 
rewards  had  been  offered  for  the  person  of  this 
man ;  and  it  was  supposed  he  would,  of  course, 
be  immediately  Imouted.  To  the  astonishment 
of  the  soldier  who  had  been  the  means  of  his 
apprehension,  a  few  days  only  had  elapsed, 
when  he  received  a  visit  from  the  robber,  who 
had  been  able  to  bribe  the  Governor  sufficiently 
to  procure  his  release,  and,  in  consequence  of 
the  bribe,  had  been  liberated  from  confinement. 
"  You  have  caught  me,"  said  he,  addressing  the 
soldier,  "  this  time ;  but  before  you  set  out 
upon  another  expedition  in  search  of  me,  I  will 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  327 

accommodate  you  with  a  pair  of  red  loots '  for  the 
journey."  With  this  terrible  threat,  he  made 
his  escape ;  and  no  further  inquiry  was  made 
after  him,  on  the  part  of  the  Russian  police. 
The  undaunted  soldier,  finding  the  little  confi- 
dence that  could  be  placed  in  his  commander, 
determined  to  take  the  administration  of  justice 
into  his  own  hands,  and  once  more  adventured 
in  pursuit  of  the  robber,  whose  flight  had  spread 
terror  through  the  country.  After  an  under- 
taking full  of  danger,  he  found  him  in  one  of  the 
little  subterraneous  huts,  in  the  midst  of  the 
steppes:  entering  this  place,  with  loaded  pistols 
in  his  hand,  "  You  promised  me,"  said  he,  "  a 
pair  of  red  boots;  I  am  here  to  be  measured  for 
them!"  With  these  words  he  discharged  one 
of  his  pistols,  and,  killing  the  robber  on  the 
spot,  returned  to  his  quarters.  The  picture 
this  offers  of  the  corruption  prevailing  among 
Governors,  and  magistrates,  in  Russia,  is  correct. 
As  for  the  story  itself,  it  may  also  be  true :  it 
is  given,  as  it  was  received,  from  those  who 
considered  its  veracity  to  be  indisputable. 


(1)  Boots  made  of  red  leather  are  commonly  worn  in  the  Ukraine : 
but  to  give  a  man  a  pair  of  red  boots,  according  to  the  saying  of  the 
Tahtars,  is,  to  cut  the  skin  round  the  upper  part  of  his  legs,  and  then 
cause  it  to  be  torn  off  by  the  feet.  This  species  of  torture  the  banditti 
are  said  to  practise,  as  an  act  of  revenge :  in  the  same  manner,  Ameii- 
eccns  scalp  the  heads  of  their  enemies. 


328  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP.        The  next  anecdote  relates  to  a  circumstance 

VIII.  .      .  _      ,  ,_ 

which  happened  in  the  road  between  Kre- 
menchuh  and  Ekaterinoslaf:  it  affords  an  instance 
a  Courier.  Qf  renMir]ial)le  intrepidity  in  one  of  the  Feldlegers, 
or  couriers  of  the  Crown.  A  person  of  this 
description  was  journeying  from  Cherson  to 
Kremenckuk,  by  a  route  much  infested  with 
banditti.  He  was  cautioned  against  taking  a 
particular  road,  on  account  of  the  numerous 
robberies  and  murders  which  had  lately  taken 
place;  and  the  more  so,  in  consequence 
of  a  report,  that  some  robbers  were  actually 
there  encamped,  plundering  all  who  attempted 
to  pass.  Orders  had  been  given,  that,  where- 
soever these  banditti  were  found,  they  should 
be  shot  without  trial.  The  courier  proceeded  on 
his  journey  in  a  pavosky1,  and  presently  he 
observed  four  men  hastily  entering  a  tent  near 
to  the  road.  Almost  at  the  same  instant,  the 
driver  of  the  pavosky  declared  that  there  was 
a  fifth  concealed  in  a  ditch  by  which  they 
passed ;  but,  as  it  was  dusky,  and  the  object 
not  clearly  discerned,  they  both  left  the  pavosky 
to  examine  it.  To  their  surprise  and  horror, 
they  found  the  body  of  a  man,  who  had  been 
murdered,  still  warm.  A  light  appeared  within 


(l)  A  small  four-wheeled  waggon  ;  used,  during  summer,  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  the  khaUtka. 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  329 

the  tent ;  and  the  courier,  desiring  the  postillion    CHAP. 
to  remain  quiet  with  the  vehicle,  walked  boldly 
towards  it.    As  soon  as  he  entered,  he  asked 
some  men  whom  he  saw  there  if  he  might  be 
allowed  a  glass  of  brandy.     Being  answered  in 
the  affirmative,  he  added,  "  Stay  a  little :  I  will 
just  step  to  the  pavosky,  and  bring  something 
for  us  to  eat :  you  shall  find  the  drink."    It  was 
now  quite  dark ;  and  the  courier,  who  had  well 
observed  the  number   and   disposition  of  the 
men  within  the  tent,  returned  to  the  pavosky ; 
when,  having  armed  the  postillion'  and  himself, 
by  means  of  a  blunderbuss,  two  pistols,  and  a 
sabre,  he  took  the  bleeding  carcase  upon  his 
shoulders,  and  advanced  once  more  towards 
the  tent.    The  unsuspecting  robbers  had  now 
seated    themselves    around    a    fire,    smoking 
tobacco ;  their  weapons  being  suspended  above 
their  heads.     The  courier,  in  the  very  instant 
that  he  entered,  cast  the  dead  body  into  the 
midst  of  them ;  exclaiming,  "There's  the  sort 
of  food  for  your  palates !"  and,  before  a  moment 
was  allowed  them  to  recover  from  the  surprise 
into  which  this  had  thrown  them,  a  discharge 
from  the  blunderbuss  killed  two  of  the  four; 
a  third  received  a  pistol  shot,  with  a  cut  from  a 
sabre,  but  survived  his  wounds,  and  was  taken, 
bound,  to  Kremenchuk,  where  he  suffered  the 
knout.     The  fourth  made  his  escape.       Of  such 


330  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PEHECOP, 


CvmP'  a  nature  are  ^e  ta^es  which  a  traveller,  in  this 
..y  .1  country,  may  expect  to  hear  continually  related 
by  new  settlers  in  the  Crimea  and  in  the  Ukraine. 
"We  did  not  give  much  credit  to  any  of  them  ; 
and  must  confess  we  should  not  be  surprised  to 
hear  the  same  stories  repeated  in  other  coun- 
tries, as  having  happened  where  banditti  are 
supposed  to  infest  the  public  roads. 

Being  unacquainted  with  the  topography  of 
Biroslaf,  and  having  no  map  in  which  it  is  traced, 
it  is  not  possible  to  give  an  accurate  description 
of  the  different  streams  and  lakes  of  water  we 
passed,  in  order  to  reach  that  place.  The 
inhabitants  were  even  more  ignorant  than  our- 
selves of  the  country.  Before  we  arrived,  we 
traversed  an  extensive  tract  of  sand,  apparently 
insulated  :  this,  we  were  told,  was  often  inun- 
dated ;  and  boats  were  then  stationed  to 
conduct  travellers.  Having  crossed  this  sandy 
district,  we  passed  the  Dnieper  by  a  ferry,  and 
ascended  its  steep  banks  on  the  western  side 
Caravans,  to  the  town.  The  conveyance  of  caravans, 
upon  the  sands,  was  effected  with  great  diffi- 
culty ;  each  waggon  requiring  no  less  a  number 
of  oxen  than  eight  or  twelve  ;  and  even  these 
seemed  hardly  adequate  to  the  immense  labour 
of  the  draft.  All  the  way  from  Perecop  to 
Biroslaf,  the  line  of  caravans  continued  almost 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  331 

without  intermission.    The  immense  concourse    CHAP. 

VIII. 

of  waggons  ;  the  bellowing  of  the  oxen ;  the 
bawling  and  grotesque  appearance  of  the  drivers; 
the  crowd  of  persons  in  the  habits  of  many  dif- 
ferent nations,  waiting  a  passage  across  the 
water  ;  offered  altogether  one  of  those  singular 
scenes,  to  which,  in  other  countries,  there  is 
nothing  similar. 


Biroslaf,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  Dnieper, 
is  a  miserable  looking  place,  owing  its  support 
entirely  in  the  passage  of  salt  caravans  from 
the  Crimea1.  Its  situation,  upon  so  considerable 
a  river,  affording  it  an  intercourse  with  Kief*  and 

(1)  "  Berislav  is    a  small  town,  founded,  on  a   regular  plan,  by  the 
Empress  Catherine,  on  a  fine   sloping  bank  near  the  Dnieper,  with  a 
floating  bridge,  which  is  removed  every  winter.  The  river,  like  the  Don, 
is  navigated  in  double  canoes,    (Sec  the  Vignette  to  Cliap.  XIII.  of  the 
former  volume,)  composed  of  two  very  narrow  ones,  often  hollowedout 
of  trees,  and  united  by  a  stage.    The  town  has  wide  streets,  at  right 
angles  to  each  other  ;  but  the  houses  are,  mostly,    miserable  wooden 
huts.  The  country  around  is  all  good  land,  but  destitute  of  water :  there 
are,  however,  many  villages,  and  many  acres  of  cultivated  land  along  the 
banks  of  the  river ;  and  wherever  there  is  a  well,  is  generally  a  small 
eluster  of  houses,  attracted  by  such  a  treasure.     On    this  side  of  'the 
Dnieper  begins  the  regular  series  of  Jews'  houses,  which  are  the   only 
taverns  or  inns  from  hence  all  the  way  into  Austria.     Jews,  in  every 
part  of  Little  and  New  Russia,  abound.     In  Muscovy  they  are  very 
uncommon."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 

(2)  The  author  will  take  this  opportunity  of  introducing  the  notice 
of  a  very  curious  discovery  made  between   Kiof  and  Kremenchuk,  as  it 
was  communicated  to  him  by  Mons.  Tamara,  the  Russian  Ambassador 
at  Constantinople ;  adding  only,  that  the  arrow-heads  mentioned  by 
Mons.  Tamara,  many  of  which  are  now  in  the  author's  possession,  have 
been  analyzed  by  W.  H.  Wollaston,  Esq.  M.D.  Secretary  of  the  Royal 

Society, 


332  BY  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PERECOP, 

CHAP.    Cherson,  might  entitle  it  to  higher  consideration. 

VIII 

We  observed  the  Polish  costume  very  prevalent 
here;  the  men,  in  every  respect,  resembling 
Cossacks  of  the  Don.  To  describe  the  journey 
between  Biroslaf1  and  Cherson,  would  put  the 
Reader's  patience  to  a  very  unnecessary  trial, 
by  the  repetition  of  observations  already,  per- 
haps, too  often  made ;  and  it  would  give  to  these 
pages  the  monophanous  character  of  the  steppes, 
over  which  the  journey  was  made,  Before  we 
reached  the  last  post,  we  passed  a  considerable 


Society,  and  found  by  that  celebrated  chemist  to  contain  the  usual 
constituents  of  antient  bronze ;  namely,  in  the  analysis  of  one  hundred 
parts  of  this  bronze,  88  parts  of  COPPER,  and  12  parts  of  TIN.  These 
are  Mons.  Tamara's  words  :  "  Entre  les  villes  de  Kiow  etKremenchtfk, 
aupres  de  la  petite  ville  nommle  Jovnin,  situe"e  sur  les  bords  de  Dnieper, 
dans  une  plaine  tres-e"tendue  et  sabloneuse,  on  trouve  en  assez  grande 
quantite  des  pointes  de  fleches,  dont  la  mature  est  de  cuivre  extr£me- 
ment  rafine",  et  les  formes  varie"es.  II  n'y  en  a  pas 'dans  le  nombre  de 
celles  qui  ressemble  aux  pointes  de  filches  anciennes  ou  modernes.  La 
quantit^  de  ces  pointes  est  si  grande  sur  cette  plaine,  que  les  habitans 
qui  ont  la  fabrication  des  eaux-de-vie  libre,  les  ramassent  pour  raccom- 
moder  leur  alembiques,  et  qui,  pour  quelque  petite  monoies,  des  petit* 
garcons  en  ramassent  toujours  pour  des  voyageurs.  Les  pointes  devraient 
£tre  de  la  plus  grande  antiquite1,  et  le  me"tal  est  si  ra6ne"  qu'il  n'y  a  pas 
de  1'oxide.  Chaque  fois  que  le  vent  a  balaye"  cette  plaine,  ces  pointes 
se  montrent,  et  c'est  le  terns  de  les  ramasser." 

(1)  At  Biroslaf  we  collected  the  following  plants :— Common  Cha- 
momile,  Achillea  nobilis ;  Hoary  Wormwood,  Artemisia  pontica  ;  Long, 
flowered  Squinancy-wort  (Waldstein),  Asperula  longiflora ;  White- 
flowered  Scabious,  Scabiosa  leucantha  ;  Scull-cap,  Sculellaria  galericulata  ; 
Italian  Hedge-mustard,  Sisymbrium  Columnce  ;  Hair-like  Feather-grass, 
Stipa  capillata ;  Silvery  Goose-grass,  Potentilla  argentea ;  Common 
Bugloss,  Anchusa  qfficinalis;  Branching  Knapweed,  Centaurea paniculate. 


TO  NICHOLAEF.  333 

surface  of  stagnant  water ;  but  whether  derived    CHAP. 
from  the  Dnieper   or  not,  we  could   not  then  L  VII-'_. 
learn ;  neither  could  any  of  our  maps  inform  us. 
The  very  sight  of  such  a  pool  was  sufficient  to 
convince  us   of  the  dangerous  nature  of    our 
situation ;   and  our  servant  was  attacked  by  a 
violent  fever,  in  consequence  of  the  unwhole- 
some   air.     We  were,  perhaps,  protected    by 
smoking :  but  even  this  practice  will  not  always 
act  as  a  preventive. 

Cherson,  founded  in  1778,    was    formerly  a 
town  of  much  more  importance  than  it  is  now8. 


(2)  "  Cherson  is  gradually  sinking  into  decay,  from  the  unhealthiness 
of  its  situation,  and  still  more  from  the  preference  given  to  Odessa.  Yet 
timber,  corn,  hemp,  and  other  articles  of  exportation,  are  so  much  cheaper 
and  more  plentiful  here,  that  many  foreign  vessels  still  prefer  this  port, 
though  they  are  obliged  by  Government  first  to  perform  quarantine,  and 
unload  their  cargoes  at  Odessa.  Corn  is  cheap  and  plentiful,  but  timber 
much  dearer  than  in  the  north,  as  the  cataracts  of  the  Dnieper  generally 
impede  its  being  floated  down.  There  is  a  noble  forest  which  we  saw  in 
Podolia,  not  far  from  the  Bog,  a  beautiful  river,  unincumbered  by  cataracts; 
but  as  some  land-carriage  would  be  necessary,  it  is  as  yet  almost  "  intacta 
securi"  The  Arsenal  at  Cherson  is  extensive  and  interesting  :  it  contains 
a  monument  to  Potemkin,  its  founder.  Two  frigates  and  a  seventy-four 
were  building :  on  account  of  the  Bar,  they  are  floated  down  to  the  Liman 
pn  camels,  as  at  Petersburg.  Nothing  can  be  more  dreary  than  the  pro- 
spect of  the  river,  which  forms  many  streams,  flowing  through  marshy 
islands,  where  the  masts  of  vessels  are  seen  rising  from  amid  brush-wood 
and  tall  reeds.  In  these  islands  are  many  wild-boars,  which  are  often 
seen  swimming  from  one  to  the  other.  No  foreign  merchants  of  any  con- 
sequence remain  here  :  those  who  transact  business  at  this  Court,  do  it  by 
clerks  and  supercargoes.  My  information  respecting  Cherson  was  chiefly 

from 


334  CHER  SON. 

CHAl 
VIII. 


3AP    Potemkin  bestowed  upon  it  many  instances  of 


patronage,  and  was  partial  to  the  place.  Its 
fortress  and  arsenal  were  erected  by  him.  We 
found  its  commerce  to  be  so  completely  anni- 
hilated, that  its  merchants  were  either  bankrupt, 
or  they  were  preparing  to  leave  the  town,  and 
to  establish  themselves  elsewhere.  They  com- 
plained of  being  abandoned  by  the  Emperor, 
who  refused  to  grant  them  any  support  or  pri- 
vilege. But  it  cannot  be  admitted  that  Cherson, 
by  any  grant  of  the  Crown,  would  ever  become 
a  great  commercial  establishment;  and  it  is 
strange  that  such  a  notion  was  ever  adopted '. 

from  a  Scotchman  named  Geddes.  The  Tomb  of  Howard  is  in  the 
desert,  about  a  mile  from  the  town  •.  it  was  built  by  Admiral  Mordvinof, 
and  is  a  small  brick  pyramid,  white-washed,  but  without  any  inscription. 
(See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter.')  He  himself  fixed  on  die  spot  of  his 
interment.  He  had  built  a  small  hut  on  this  part  of  the  steppe,  where  he 
passed  much  of  his  time,  as  the  most  healthy  spot  in  the  neighbourhood- 
The  English  burial-service  was  read  over  him  by  Admiral  Priestman, 
from  whom  I  had  these  particulars.  Two  small  villas  have  been  built  at 
no  great  distance ;  I  suppose  also  from  the  healthiness  of  the  situation^ 
as  it  had  nothing  else  to  recommend  it.  Howard  was  spoken  of  with 
exceeding  respect  and  affection,  by  all  who  remembered  or  knew  him ; 
and  they  were  many."  Heber's  AfS.  Journal. 

(1)  Scherer's  promising  view  of  its  importance  might  have  led  to  other 
hopes ;  but  this  author's  prognostication  of  the  advantages  Russia  might 
derive  from  the  possession  of  the  Crimea,  has  proved  fallible.  Speaking, 
however,  of  the  commerce  of  Clierson  in  1 786,  he  says,  "  Dans  le  cours  de 
I'annee  1786,  sa  navigation  occupoit  cent  trente-un  bdtimens ;  savoir, 
fuatre-vingt-douze  Ottomans,  trente-deux  Russes,  et  sept  Autrichiens. 
L' importation  consisloit  en  fruits,  vins,  cabeliau.,  meubles,  $c.  EtV  expor- 
tation, enfroment,  savon,  chanvre,  farine,  fer,  laities,  lin,  cordages,  tabac, 
bois,"  &.c.  Histoire  Raisonnee  du  Comm.  de  la  Russ.  par  Scherer, 
torn.  II.  p.  33.  Parts,  1768. 


CHERSON.  335 

The  mouth  of  the  Dnieper  is  extremely  difficult  CHAP. 
to  navigate:  sometimes,  the  north-east  wind  <  .„.  < 
leaves  it  full  of  shallows;  and,  where  there 
happens  at  any  time  to  be  a  channel  for  vessels, 
it  has  not  a  greater  depth  of  water  than  five 
feet;  the  entrance  being  at  the  same  time 
excessively  narrow.  The  sands  are  continually 
shifting :  this  renders  the  place  so  dangerous, 
that  ships  are  rarely  seen  in  the  harbour.  But 
the  last  blow  to  the  commerce  of  Cherson  was 
given  by  the  war  of  Russia  with  France.  Before 
this  event  took  place,  the  exportation  of  corn,  of 
hemp,  and  of  canvas,  had  placed  the  town  upon 
a  scale  of  some  consideration.  All  the  ports  of 
Russia  in  the  Black  Sea  were  more  or  less 
affected  by  the  same  cause ;  and  particularly 
Taganrog,  which  place  received  a  serious  check 
in  consequence  of  the  state  of  affairs  with 

France? 

t 

The  style  of  architecture  visible  in  the  build- 
ings of  the    fortress   displayed  a  good  taste : 

(2)  Upon  and  near  the  banks  of  the  Dnieper  were  the  following  plants: 
Mountain  Alysson,  Alyssum  mantanum  ,•  Common  Bugloss,  Anclnisa 
nflicinalis ;  Beard-grass,  Andropogon  Tschfcmum ;  Broom-leaved  Snap- 
dragon, Antirrhinum  Genislifdium ;  Dotted  Starwort,  Aster  punclalus 
(see  Willdenow) ;  Branching  Campion,  Cucubalus  Catholicus;  Branching 
Larkspur,  Delphinium  consolida ;  Field  Spurge,  Euphorbia  segetalis; 
Hoary  Rampion,  Phyteuma  canescens,  with  large  purple  flowers;  it  was 
growing  among  the  rocks  near  the  river  (see  IValdstein);  Berry-bearing 
Catch-fly,  Pulycnemwm  arvense — Silenc  baccifcra. 


336  CHER  SON. 

CHAP,  the  stone  used  for  their  construction  resembled 
that  porous,  though  durable  limestone,  which 
the  first  Grecian  colonies  in  Italy  employed  in 
erecting  the  temples  of  Pcestum :  but  the  Russians 
had  white-washed  every  thing,  and  by  that 
means  had  given  to  their  works  the  meanness  of 
plaster.  One  of  the  first  things  we  asked  to 
see,  was  the  tomb  of  Potemhin.  All  Europe 
has  heard  that  he  was  buried  in  Cherson ;  and  a 
magnificent  sepulchre  might  naturally  be  ex- 
pected for  a  person  so  renowned.  The  reader 
will  imagine  our  surprise,  when,  in  answer  to 
our  inquiries  concerning  his  remains,  we  were 
told  that  no  one  knew  what  was  become  of  them. 
Potemhin,  the  illustrious,  the  powerful,  of  all  the 
princes  that  ever  lived  the  most  princely ;  of  all 
Imperial  favourites,  the  most  favoured ;  had  not 
a  spot  which  might  be  called  his  grave.  He, 
who  not  only  governed  all  Russia,  but  even  made 
the  haughty  CATHERINE  his  suppliant,  had  not 
the  distinction  possessed  by  the  humblest  of  the 
human  race.  The  particulars  respecting  the 
ultimate  disposal  of  his  body,  as  they  were  com- 
municated to  us  upon  the  spot,  on  the  most  cre- 
dible testimony,  merit  a  cursory  detail. 


Burial  of         The  corpse,  soon  after  his  death  *,  was  brought 

Potemkin. 

(1)  Potemkin  died   October  15,    1791,   aged  52,  during  a  journey 
from   Yassy  to  Nicholaef,  and   actually   expired  in  a  ditch,   near  to 

the 


CHER  SON.  337 

to  Cherson,  and  placed  beneath  the  dome  of  a    CHAP. 

VIII. 

small  church  belonging  to  the  fortress,  opposite  *.  -y-  ,* 
to  the  altar.  After  the  usual  ceremony  of  inter- 
ment, the  vault  was  covered,  merely  by  restoring 
to  their  former  situation  the  planks  of  wood 
belonging  to  the  floor  of  the  building.  Many 
inhabitants  of  Cherson,  as  well  as  English  officers 
in  the  Russian  service,  who  resided  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, had  seen  the  coffin:  this  was  extremely 
ordinary,  but  the  practice  of  shewing  it  to 
strangers  prevailed  for  some  years  after  Poteni- 
kins  decease.  The  Empress  CATHERINE  either 
had,  or  pretended  to  have,  an  intention  of  erecting 
a  superb  monument  to  his  memory :  whether 
at  Cherson  or  elsewhere,  is  unknown.  Her 
sudden  death  is  believed  to  havB  prevented  the 
completion  of  this  design.  The  most  extra- 
ordinary part  of  the  story  remains  now  to  be 
related :  the  coffin  itself  has  disappeared. 
Instead  of  any  answer  to  the  various  inquiries 
we  made  concerning  it,  we  were  cautioned  to 
be  silent.  "  No  one"  said  an  English  Gentleman 
residing  in  the  place,  "  dares  to  mention  the  name 
ofPotemhin"  At  length  we  received  intelligence 
that  the  Verger  could  satisfy  our  curiosity,  if  we 
would  venture  to  ask  him.  We  soon  found  the 


the  former  place,  in  which  the  attendants  had  placed  him,  that 
be  might  redinc  against  its  sloping  side ;  being  taken  from  the 
carriage  for  air. 


338  CHERSON. 

CHAP,   means  of  encouraging  a  little  communication  on 
'     his  part;    and  were  then  told,  that  the  body, 
by   the   Emperor  PAUL'S  command,   had  been 
taken   up,    and   thrown  into   the  ditch   of  the 
fortress.     The  orders  received  were,   *'  to  take 

posal  of  bis 

body.  up  the  body  of  Potemkin,  and  to  cast  it  into  the 
first  hole  that  might  be  found."  These  orders 
were  implicity  obeyed.  A  hole  was  dug  in  the 
fosse,  into  which  his  remains  were  thrown,  with 
as  little  ceremony  as  if  they  had  been  those  of 
a  dead  dog ;  but  this  procedure  taking  place 
during  the  night,  very  few  were  informed  of  the 
disposal  of  the  body.  An  eye-witness  of  the 
fact  assured  me  that  the  coffin  no  longer  existed 
in  the  vault  where  it  was  originally  placed ;  and 
the  Verger  was  actually  proceeding  to  point  out 
the  place  where  the  body  was  abandoned,  when 
the  Bishop  himself  happening  to  arrive,  took 
away  my  guide,  and,  with  menaces  but  too 
likely  to  be  fulfilled,  prevented  our  being  more 
fully  informed  concerning  the  obloquy  now 
involving  the  relics  of  Potemkin. 

Let  us  therefore  direct  the  Reader's  attention 
to  a  more  interesting  subject — to  a  narrative  of 
the  last  days,  the  death,  and  burial,  of  the 
benevolent  HOWARD  ;  who,  with  a  character 
forcibly  opposed  to  that  of  Potemkin,  also  termi- 
nated a  glorious  career  at  Cherson.  Mysterious 


C  H  E  R  S  O  N.  339 

Providence,  by  events  always  remote  from  CHAP. 
human  foresight,  had  wonderfully  destined  that  i  -***'. 
these  two  men,  celebrated  in  their  lives  by  the 
most  opposite  qualifications,  should  be  interred 
nearly  upon  the  same  spot.  It  is  not  within  the 
reach  of  possibility  to  bring  together,  side  by 
side,  two  individuals  more  remarkably  distin- 
guished in  their  deeds ;  as  if  the  hand  of  Destiny 
had  directed  two  persons,  in  whom  were  exem- 
plified the  extremes  of  Vice  and  Virtue,  to  one 
common  spot,  in  order  that  the  contrast  might 
remain  as  a  lesson  for  mankind :  Potemkin, 
bloated  and  pampered  by  every  vice,  after  a 
path  through  life  stained  with  blood  and  crimes, 
at  last  the  victim  of  his  own  selfish  excesses : 
Howard,  a  voluntary  exile,  enduring  the  severest 
privations  for  the  benefit  of  his  fellow-creatures, 
and  labouring,  even  to  his  latest  breath,  in  the 
exercise  of  every  social  virtue. 

The  particulars  of  Mr.  Howard's  death  were  ^atrjfecnlar! 
communicated  to  us  by  his  two  friends,  Admiral   Death  of 

JJozvard. 

Mordvinof,  then  Chief- Admiral  of  the  Black- Sea 
fleet,  and  Admiral  Priest-man,  an  English  officer 
in  the  Russian  service ;  both  of  whom  had  borne 
testimony  to  his  last  moments.  He  had  been 
entreated  to  visit  a  lady  about  twenty-four  miles 
from  Cherson  !,  who  was  dangerously  ill.  Mr. 

(1)   Thirty-five  otrsts. 
VOL.   II.  Z 


340  CHERSON. 

CHAP.  Howard  objected,  alleging  that  he  acted  only  as 
physician  to  the  poor;  but,  hearing  of  her  immi- 
nent danger,  he  afterwards  yielded  to  the 
persuasion  of  Admiral  Mordvinof,  and  went  to 
see  her.  After  having  prescribed  for  this  lady, 
he  returned ;  leaving  directions  with  her  family,  to 
send  for  him  again  if  she  got  better;  but  adding, 
that  if,  as  he  much  feared,  she  should  prove  worse, 
it  would  be  to  no  purpose.  Sometime  after  his 
return  toCherson,  a  letter  arrived,  stating  that  the 
lady  was  better,  and  begging  that  he  would  come 
without  loss  of  time.  When  he  examined  the 
date,  he  perceived  that  the  letter,  by  some 
unaccountable  delay,  had  been  eight  days  in 
getting  to  his  hands.  Upon  this,  he  resolved  to 
go  with  all  possible  expedition.  The  weather 
was  extremely  tempestuous,  and  very  cold,  it 
being  late  in  the  year ;  and  the  rain  fell  in  torrents. 
In  his  impatience  to  set  out,  a  conveyance  not 
being  immediately  ready,  he  mounted  an  old 
dray-horse,  used  in  Admiral  Mordvinof 's  family 
to  convey  water,  and  thus  proceeded  to  visit  his 
patient.  Upon  his  arrival,  he  found  the  lady 
dying:  this,  added  to  the  fatigue  of  the  journey, 
affected  him  so  much,  that  it  brought  on  a  fever: 
his  clothes,  at  the  same  time,  had  been  wet 
through.  But  he  attributed  his  fever  entirely  to 
another  cause.  Having  administered  something 
to  his  patient  to  excite  perspiration,  as  soon 


CHERSON.  341 

as  the  symptoms  of  it  appeared,  he  put  his 
hand  beneath  the  bed-clothes,  to  feel  her 
pulse,  that  she  might  not  be  chilled  by  his  re- 
moving them ;  and  he  believed  that  her  fever  was 
thus  communicated  to  him.  After  this  painful 
journey,  Mr.  Howard  returned  to  Cherson,  and 
the  lady  died. 

It  had  been  almost  his  daily  custom,  at  a 
certain  hour,  to  visit  Admiral  Prieslman ;  when, 
with  his  usual  attention  to  regularity,  he  would 
place  his  watch  upon  the  table,  and  pass 
exactly  an  hour  with  him  in  conversation.  The 
Admiral,  observing  that  he  failed  in  his  usual 
visits,  went  to  see  him,  and  found  him  weak 
and  ill,  sitting  before  a  stove  in  his  bed-room. 

7  O 

Having  inquired  after  his  health,  Mr.  Howard 
replied,  that  his  end  was  approaching  very  fast ; 
that  he  had  several  things  to  say  to  his  friend; 
and  thanked  him  for  having  called.  The 
Admiral,  finding  him  in  such  a  melancholy  mood, 
endeavoured  to  turn  the  conversation,  imagining 
the  whole  might  be  the  effect  of  his  low  spirits ; 
but  Mr.  Howard  soon  assured  him  it  was  other- 
wise; and  added,  "  Prieslman,  you  style  this  a 
very  dull  conversation,  and  endeavour  to  divert 
my  mind  from  dwelling  upon  death :  but  I  en- 
tertain very  different  sentiments.  Death  has 
no  terrors  for  me  :  it  is  an  event  I  always  look 

z  2 


342  CHERSON. 

CHAP,  to  with  cheerfulness,  if  not  with  pleasure;  and 
be  assured,  the  subject  of  it  is  to  me  more 
grateful  than  any  other.  I  am  well  aware  that 
I  have  but  a  short  time  to  live;  my  mode  of 
life  has  rendered  it  impossible  that  I  should 
recover  from  this  fever.  If  I  had  lived  as  you 
do,  eating  heartily  of  animal  food,  and  drinking 
wine,  I  might,  perhaps,  by  altering  my  diet,  be 
able  to  subdue  it.  But  how  can  such  an  invalid 
as  I  am  lower  his  diet  ?  I  have  been  accustomed, 
for  years,  to  exist  upon  vegetables  and  water; 
a  little  bread,  and  a  little  tea.  I  have  no  method 
of  lowering  my  nourishment,  and  consequently 
I  must  die.  It  is  such  jolly  fellows  as  you, 
Priestman,  who  get  over  these  fevers  P  Then, 
turning  the  subject,  he  spoke  of  his  funeral; 
and  cheerfully  gave  directions  concerning  the 
manner  of  his  burial.  "  There  is  a  spot,"  said 
he, '"  near  the  village  of  Dauphigny :  this  would 
suit  me  nicely :  you  know  it  well,  for  I  have 
often  said  that  I  should  like  to  be  buried  there ; 
and  let  me  beg  of  you,  as  you  value  your  old 
friend,  not  to  suffer  any  pomp  to  be  used  at  my 
funeral ;  nor  any  monument,  nor  monumental 
inscription  whatsoever,  to  mark  where  I  am 
laid  :  but  lay  me  quietly  in  the  earth,  place  a 
sun-dial  over  my  grave,  and  let  me  be  forgotten." 
Having  given  these  directions,  he  was  very 
earnest  in  soliciting  that  Admiral  Priestman 


CHERSON.  343 

would  lose  no  time  in  securing  the  object  of    CHAP. 

J  VIII. 

his  wishes;    but  go    immediately,    and  settle  v    -v-    > 
with  the  owner  of  the  land  for  the  place  of  his 
interment,  and  prepare  every  thing  for  his  burial. 

The  Admiral  left  him  upon  his  melancholy 
errand ;  fearing  at  the  same  time,  as  he  himself 
informed  us,  that  the  people  would  believe  him 
to  be  crazy,  in  soliciting  a  burying-ground  for  a 
man  then  living,  and  whom  no  person  yet  knew 
to  be  indisposed.  However,  he  accomplished 
Mr.  Howard's  wishes,  and  returned  to  him  with 
the  intelligence :  at  this,  his  countenance  bright- 
ened, a  gleam  of  evident  satisfaction  came  over 
his  face,  and  he  prepared  to  go  to  bed.  Soon  after- 
wards he  made  his  will ;  leaving  as  his  executor 
a  trusty  follower,  who  had  lived  with  him  more 
in  the  capacity  of  a  friend  than  of  a  servant,  and 
whom  he  charged  with  the  commission  of  bearing 
his  will  to  England.  It  was  not  until  after  he 
had  finished  this  will,  that  any  symptoms  of 
delirium  appeared.  Admiral  Priestman,  who  had 
left  him  for  a  short  time,  returned  and  found 
him  sitting  up  in  his  bed,  adding  what  he 
believed  to  be  a  codicil  to  his  will;  but  it 
consisted  of  several  unconnected  words,  the 
chief  part  being  illegible,  and  the  whole 
without  any  meaning.  This  strange  composi- 
tion he  desired  Admiral  Priestman  to  witness 


344  CHERSON. 


to  s*&n  »  anc*'  *n  orc^er  to  please  him,  the 
Admiral  consented;  but  wrote  his  name,  as  he 
bluntly  said,  in  Russian  characters,  lest  any  of 
his  friends  in  England,  reading  his  signature 
to  such  a  codicil,  should  think  he  was  also 
delirious.  After  Mr.  Howard  had  made  what 
he  conceived  to  be  an  addition  to  his  will,  he 
became  more  composed.  A  letter  was  brought 
to  him  from  England,  containing  intelligence  of 
the  improved  state  of  his  son's  health  ;  stating 
the  nature  of  his  occupations  in  the  country, 
and  giving  reason  to  hope  that  he  would  recover 
from  the  disorder  with  which  he  was  afflicted  l. 
His  servant  read  this  letter  aloud  :  and,  when 
he  had  concluded,  Mr.  Howard  turned  his  head 
towards  him,  saying,  "  Is  not  this  comfort  for  a 
dying  father  ?"  He  expressed  great  repugnance 
against  being  buried  according  to  the  rights  of 
the  Greek  Church;  and  begging  Admiral  Priestman 
to  prevent  any  interference  on  the  part  of 
the  Russian  priests,  made  him  also  promise, 
that  he  would  read  the  Service  of  the  Church 
of  England  over  his  grave,  and  bury  him  in  all 
respects  according  to  the  forms  of  his  country. 
Soon  after  this  last  request,  he  ceased  to  speak. 
Admiral  Mordvinof  came  in,  and  found  him  dying 


(i)  Mr.  Howard's  son  laboured  under  au  attack  of  insanity. 


CHERSON.  345 

very  fast.  They  had  in  vain  besought  him  to 
allow  a  physician  to  be  sent  for ;  but  Admiral 
Mordvinof  renewing  this  solicitation  with  great 
earnestness,  Mr.  Howard  assented,  by  nodding 
his  head.  The  physician  came,  but  was  too  late 
to  be  of  any  service.  A  rattling  in  the  throat 
had  commenced :  the  physician  administered 
what  is  called  the  musk  draught,  a  medicine 
used  only  in  Russia,  in  the  last  extremity.  It 
was  given  to  the  patient  by  Admiral  Mordvinof 
who  prevailed  with  him  to  swallow  a  little ; 
but  he  endeavoured  to  avoid  the  rest,  and  gave 
evident  signs  of  disapprobation.  He  was  then 
entirely  given  over ;  and  shortly  after  breathed 
his  last. 

Mr.  Howard  had  always  refused  to  allow  any 
portrait  of  himself  to  be  made ;  but  after 
his  death,  Admiral  Mordvinof  caused  a  plaster 
mould  to  be  formed  upon  his  face :  this  was 
sent  to  Mr.  Whitbread.  A  cast  from  the  same 
mould  was  in  the  Admiral's  possession  when  we 
were  in  Cherson,  presenting  a  very  striking 
resemblance  of  his  features. 

He  was  buried  near  the  village  of  Dauphigny, 
about  five  versts  from  Cherson,  by  the  road  to 
Nicholaef,  in  the  spot  he  had  himself  chosen ; 
and  his  friend,  Admiral  Pricstman,  read  the 


346  CHERSON. 

CHAP.  English,  Burial-service,  according  to  his  desire. 
The  rest  of  his  wishes  were  not  exactly  fulfilled : 
the  concourse  of  spectators  was  immense,  and 
the  order  of  his  funeral  was  more  magnificent 
than  would  have  met  with  his  approbation.  It 

was  as  follows : 

i. 

The  Body, 

his  Funeral. 

on  a  Bier,  drawn  by  Six  Horses  with  trappings. 

2. 

The  PRINCE  of  MOLDAVIA, 

in  a  sumptuous  Carriage,  drawn  by  Six  Horses,  covered  with 
scarlet  cloth. 

3. 
Admirals  MORDVINOF  and  PRIESTMAN,  in  a  carriage  drawn  by  Six  Horses. 

4. 

The  GENERALS  and  STAFF-OFFICERS  of  the  Garrison, 
in  their  respective  Carriages. 

5. 

The  MAGISTRATES  and  MERCHANTS  of  CHERSON,  in  their  respective 
Carriages. 

6. 
A  large  Party  of  Cavalry. 

7. 

Other  Persons  on  Horseback. 
8. 

An  immense  Concourse  of  Spectators  on  Foot,  amounting 
to  Two  or  Three  Thousand. 


Howard.     A.  monument  was  afterwards  erected  over  him  : 
this,   instead  of  the  sun-dial  he  had  requested, 


CHERSON.  347 

consisted  of  a  brick  pyramid  or  obelisk,  sur-     vni.' 
rounded  by   stone  posts   with    chains.       The  v~— "* — ' 
posts   and    chains    began   to  disappear  before 
our  arrival;    and   when   Mr.  Heber  made  the 
sketch  from  which  the  Fignette  to  this  Chapter 
was  engraven,  not  a  vestige  of  them  was  to  be 
seen  ;  the  obelisk  alone  remained,  in  the  midst 
of  a   bleak  and  desolate   plain,    where    dogs 
were  gnawing    the    bones    of  a    dead  horse, 
whose  putrifying  carcase  added  to  the  revolting 
horror    of  the   scene.     A  circumstance   came 
to  our  knowledge  before  we  left  Russia,  con- 
cerning Howard's  remains,  which  it  is  painful 
to  relate;  namely,  that  Count  Ptncent  Potocki1, 
a   Polish  nobleman  of  the  highest  taste    and 
talents,  whose  magnificent  library  and  museum 
would   do  honour  to  any  country,    through  a 
mistaken  design  of  testifying  his  respect  for  the 
memory  of  Howard,  had  signified  his  intention  of 
taking  up  the  body,  that  it  might  be  conveyed 
to  his  country-seat,  where  a  sumptuous  monu- 
ment has  been  prepared  for  its  reception,  upon 
a   small  island  in  the  midst  of  a  lake.     His 
Countess,  being  a  romantic  lady/wishes  to  have 
an  annual  ftte,  consecrated  to  Benevolence;   at 
this  the  nymphs  of  the  country  are  to  attend, 


())  Pronounced  Potoshy, 


348  CHERSON. 

CHAP,  and   to   strew   the  place  with  flowers.     This 

VIII. 

design  is  so  contrary  to  the  earnest  request  of 
Mr.  Howard,  and  at  the  same  time  such  a 
violation  of  the  dignity  due  to  his  remains,  that 
every  friend  to  his  memory  will  join  in  wishing 
it  may  never  be  fulfilled.  Count  Potocki  was 
absent  during  the  time  we  remained  in  that 
part  of  the  world,  or  we  should  have  ventured 
to  remonstrate  :  we  could  only  therefore  entrust 
our  petitions  to  a  third  person,  who  promised 
to  convey  them  to  him  after  our  departure. 

The  distance  from  Cher  son  to  Nicholaef  is  only 
sixty-two  versts,  or  rather  more  than  forty-one 
miles.  At  the  distance  of  five  versts  from  the 
former  place,  the  road  passes  close  to  the 
Tomb  of  Howard.  It  may  be  supposed  we  did 
not  halt  with  indifference  to  view  the  hallowed 
spot.  "  To  abstract  the  mind  from  all  local 
emotion,  would  be  impossible  if  it  were  endea^ 
voured,  and  it  would  be  foolish  if  it  were 
possible.  Whatever  withdraws  us  from  the 
power  of  our  senses ;  whatever  makes  the  past, 
the  distant,  or  the  future,  predominate  over  the 
present ;  advances  us  in  the  dignity  of  thinking 
beings.  Far  be  from  me,  and  from  my  friends, 
that  frigid  philosophy  which  might  conduct  us 
indifferent  or  unmoved  over  any  ground  that 
has  been  dignified  by  wisdom,  bravery,  or 


NICHOLAEF.  349 

virtue."     So  spake  the  Sage,  in  words  never  to    CHAP. 
be  forgotten  :  unenvied  be  the  man  who  has  not  s    ,  v  '—  > 
felt  their  force;    lamented  he  who  does  not 
know  their  author  ! 


The  town  of  Nicholaef,  covering  a  great 
extent  of  territory,  with  numerous  buildings, 
intersected  by  wide  streets,  makes  a  splendid 
and  very  considerable  appearance  '.  The  whole 
of  it  is  of  recent  date.  The  river  Bog  flows 
quite  round  the  place,  in  a  broad  and  ample 
channel.  Ships  of  the  line  cannot  approach  the 
buildings,  owing  to  a  sand-bank  ;  but  brigs  and 
other  small  vessels  are  carried  over  by  means 
of  the  floating  machines  called  camels,  in  use  at 
Petersburg  and  many  other  parts  of  Russia.  The 
arsenals,  store-houses,  and  other  works,  are  so 
extensive,  that  it  is  evident  great  eftbrts  have 
been  made  to  render  this  a  place  of  high 
importance  to  the  Russian  navy.  The  Admiral- 
in-chief  of  the  Black  Sea,  as  well  as  the  Vice- 


(1)  "Nicolaeff,  on  the  Bog,  is  a  rising  town,  very  advantageously 
situated :  being  without  the  Bar  of  the  Dnieper,  it  is  the  station  for 
vessels  when  built ;  and  here  they  are  laid  up  to  be  repaired.  Nothing, 
I  should  think,  but  the  expense  of  new  dock-yards  induces  Government 
to  persevere  in  their  system  of  building  vessels  at  Cherson,  when  this 
neighbouring  town  has  so  many  superior  advantages.  It  has  a  fine 
river,  without  either  bar  or  cataract;  deep,  still  water,  and  an 
healthy  situation.  Vessels,  however,  are  said  to  decay  sooner  than  at 
Sebastopole."  Heler's  MS.  Journal. 


350  NICHOLAEF. 

Admirals,  reside  here;  and  an  office  is  esta- 
blished for  regulating  all  marine  affairs  belonging 
to  the  three  ports,  Cherson,  Odessa,  and  Nicholaef. 
The  public  buildings  and  palaces  of  the  Admirals 
are  very  stately;  and,  considering  the  short 
time  that  has  elapsed  since  Nicholaef  was  a 
miserable  village,  the  progress  made  in  the 
place  is  surprising.  There  is  no  town  to 
compare  with  it  in  all  the  South  of  Russia; 
nor  any  in  the  empire,  excepting  Moscow  and 
Petersburg.  Its  elevated  situation ;  the  magni- 
ficence of  its  river ;  the  regularity  that  has  been 
observed  in  laying  out  the  streets,  and  their 
extraordinary  breadth;  the  number  of  the 
public  works,  and  the  flourishing  state  of  its 
population;  place  it  very  high  in  the  small 
catalogue  of  Russian  towns.  English  officers, 
and  English  engineers,  with  other  foreigners  in 
the  Russian  service,  residing  here,  have  intro- 
duced habits  of  urbanity  and  cleanliness ;  and 
have  served  to  correct,  by  the  force  of  example, 
the  barbarism  of  the  native  inhabitants. 


CHAP.  IX. 


FROM  NICHOLAEF  TO  ODESSA. 

Remains  of  Olbiopolis  — Inscriptions — Medals — Admiral 
Prlestman — Mineralized  Shells — Observations  upon  the 
Odessa  Limestone  —  Consequences  which  resulted  from 
tlie  Opening  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus — Conduct  of  t tie 
Emperor  respecting  Odessa  —  Number  of  discarded 
Officers — Usurious  Practices  of  the  Sovereign — Further 
Account  of  Odessa  —  Account  of  the  Passage  ly  Land 
to  Constantinople — Preparation  for  sailing  from  Odessa. 

SOME  interesting  antiquities  have  been  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nicko'aef.  To  the  south 
of  the  town,  near  to  the  fall  of  the  Bog  into  the 


352  FROM  NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP.    Dnieper,  there  stood,  not  long  ago,  a  fortress, 
which  the  traditions  of  the  country  ascribed  to 
Alexander  the  Great.     The  Emperor  PAUL  gave 
orders    for    its    destruction;    and    the    joyful 
Russians,  prompt  for  works  of  this  kind,  speedily 
removed  every  trace  of  its  existence.     Not  far 
from  the  same  place,  exactly  at  the  junction  of 
the  two  rivers,  about  twelve  miles  from  Nicholaef, 
are  the  remains  of  Olkiopolis,  the  only  Greek  city 
belonging  to  European  Sarmatia  of  which  there 
are  antient  medals  extant1.    The  Russians  have 
there  discovered  not  only  medals,  but  also  bas- 
reliefs,  inscriptions,  amphorae,  tombs,  and  other 
indications  of  the  site  of  that  city.     A  view  of 
those  Ruins  might  have  afforded  us  the  highest 
gratification ;  but  the  circumstances  of  our  situa- 
tion would  not  admit  the  necessary  delay ;  our 
liberty,  if  not  our  lives,  depended  upon  making 
the  best  use  of  the  time  allowed  for  effecting 
our   escape.      We   were    well   aware,    that  if 
any  intelligence  of  our  intention  should  reach 
Petersburg,  all  hope  of  quitting  Russia  would  be 
annihilated.    In  the  church  of  Nicholaef,  a  stone 
is  preserved,  brought  from  Olbiopolis,  with  the 
following  inscription2;  recording  the  dedication 

(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(2)  The  length  of  the  stone  is  two  feet ;  its  breadth  at  the  top, 
where  the  inscription  begins,    nine  inches,  and  twelve  inches  at  the 
bottom. 


TO   ODESSA.  353 

of  a  golden  image  of  Victory  to  Apollo  the  Pro-    CHAP. 
tector,  offered  by  the  officers  whose  names  are  -  .  ••*-  •-' 
specified,  in  behalf  of  the  city  and  of  their  own 
safety3: 

ATA0HITYXHI  inscription. 

AHO A AUN I 

n  POZTATHIOI 

n  Epm  AHI  AN 

H  PAEI  AN  AKTOr 

ZTPATH  rompo 

ZENOZZJ1MA 

XOYAN0OZKAA 

AIZ0ENOYZABPA 

TOZAH  M  HTPIOY 

EYH AOVZZHM A 

XOYA<l>ATOZniAEI  .  . 

ANE0HKANNEIKHN 

XPYZEONYFlEPTHZnOAE 

nZKAITHZEAYTflNYrEIAZEm 

TOIZAYTOIZERE 

AYTOYNAOY 

. OPOY . 


(3)  The  meaning  of  the  word  -r^rarti;,  and  t^affreurict,  in  the  following 
inscriptions,  will  be  obvious  from  these  passages  of  Philo,  (De  Proem,  et 
Poen.J  Moses  is  called,  'O  rau  livavf  i&ifts}.*irris  KOI  tr/>i>irTar*is*  Of  Joseph 
it  is  said,  Tw  Atyuvrvev  T^V  \rti[i.i\i'iav  neii  •Jt^tattta'ta.-/  f.xftia>.  De  Joscpho.  Thi' 
word  is  also  applied  to  the  Deity,  as  Ruler  and  Director  of  the  Universe, 
}D  this  passage:  2«T»jiW  til/wavr*  TO  ttxtiit  igynv,  'frif&i\tia.ti  r»  xui  TJOBT«- 
flxv  KIU  fit  t»  niircf  ftigav,  HfKtri^  ft!*i  ivrdfytt  ipg 


354  FROM    NICHOLAEF, 

Other  inscriptions  have  been  found  at  Olbiopolis : 
some  of  these  remarkably  correspond  with  the 
preceding.  The  kindness  of  the  Rev.  Robert 
Walpole,  M.  A.  of  Trinity  College,  Cambridge, 
who  lately  returned  from  his  travels  in  Greece1, 
has  enabled  the  author  to  make  an  interesting 
addition  to  those  which  he  copied  at  Nicholaef. 
During  Mr.  Walpoles  residence  at  Athens,  he 
obtained  four  Olbiopolitan  inscriptions,  that  were 
preserved  by  M.  Fauvel,  a  celebrated  French 
artist  and  antiquary :  these  he  has  liberally 
contributed,  together  with  the  illustration  which 
the  Reader  will  here  find  accompanying  them. 
In  the  first,  a  similar  dedication  of  a  statue  of 
Victory  is  recorded;  with  this  difference,  that 
the  image  was  of  silver. 

ATAOHITYXHI 

AHOAAnNinPOZ 

TATHIOIHEPIAHMH 

TPIONHPAEIANAKTOZ 

ZTPATHrOIAAOYOATOZ 

ANTEPUTOZAIAIOZ 

NAYTEIAAOYAPIZTO 

NIKOZAIONYZIOYO 

KAIBAZIAEYZ 

(l)  Mr.  Walpnle  is  already  known  to  the  Public,  as  the  learned 
Editor  of  Comicorum  Grcecorum  Fragmenta,  and  as  the  author  of  the 
E^ays  hearing  his  name  in  the  Herculanensia ,  which  were  published 
jointly  with  those  of  Sir  If.  Drummmd,  &c,  />o««7.  4to.  1810. 


TO  ODESSA.  355 


ANEOH 

KANNEIKHNAPTYPAN 
YHEPTHZnOAEflZKAITHZE 
AYTHNYTEIAZ 
AOYKIOZAOYKiOY 

In  the  next,  the  image  was  of  gold,  as  in  the 
inscription  found  in  the  church  of  Nicholaef. 

ATAOHITYXHI 


TATHIOmEPI 

FIPAZIANAKTOZZTPA 

THPOIAZKAHniAAHZ 

HOZIAHOY 

OPAZIAAHOZOPA 

Z1BOYAOY  . 


MOYA1OYPTOZ 
HOZIAHOYANE 
0HKANNEIKHNXPY 
ZEONZYNBAZI  . 


YREP 

THZnOAEP.ZKAI 
THZEAYTIiN 
YTEIAZ 

VOL,  II.  2  A 


356  FROM   NICHOLAEF, 

The  three  foregoing  inscriptions  record  the 
consecration  of  golden  or  silver  images  of  Victory, 
in  the  Temple  of  Apollo,  at  Olbiopolis,  dedicated 
to  that  God.  A  fourth,  still  more  interesting1, 
serves  to  render  conspicuous  the  prodigious 
importance  annexed  to  the  commerce  of  the 
Euxine  by  the  citizens  of  Byzantium;  the 
senate,  people,  and  magistrates  decree,  that 
a  golden  statue  of  Orontes,  the  son  of  Ababus, 
should  be  placed  in  the  Curia,  and  that  a  copy 
of  the  decree  should  be  sent  by  letter  to  the 
magistrates  of  Olbiopolis,  to  shew  them  in  what 
estimation  he  is  held  by  the  Byzantines.  He  is 
also  made  a  citizen  of  Byzantium;  and  this 
privilege  is  granted  to  his  descendants.  Orontes, 
as  well  as  his  father,  who  was  Governor  of 
some  part  of  the  coast  of  the  Euxine,  had 
received  hospitably,  and  encouraged,  and 
bestowed  many  benefits  upon,  the  Byzantines, 
who  frequented  that  sea  for  commercial  pur- 
poses. 


(0  During  tlie  printing  of  these  pages,  the  author  discovered  thai 
this  inscription  had  heen  already  published  by  Dr.  Chandler,  in  the 
Appendix  to  his  Inscrlptiones  Antiques,  p.  9.  JJut  as  the  copy  afforded 
by  the  learned  Editor  differs  in  some  material  points  from  that  pro- 
cured by  Mr.  JValpole,  a  republication  has  heen  deemed  expedient, 
wherein  the  various  readings  are  noticed. 


TO    ODESSA.  357 

OAAMOZOBYZANTIHN 

EAOEETABOYAAKAITnAAMflTOIZTPATArOIEI 

nANEHEIOPONTAZOABIOriOAEITAZABABOY 

YIOZANAPOZOYMONONTAZriATPIAOZAAAAKAl 

ZYNnANTOZTOYnONTIKOYHPATIZTEYZANTOZ 

EONEOZKAIMEXPITAZTONZEBAZTriNrNft 

ZEHZnPO ANTOZnOAAAAEKAIBYZAN 

TiniSinOAEIKATATETAZAAMOtlAZXPHAZKAl 

TUNEIZTOENnOPIONHAEONTIlNnPOZTA 

ZlAZrENOMENOYn^EAIMOYKAIAYTOZftZ 

nEPTAAOmATOYnATPOZAYTOYTAISinOTITON 

AAMONEYNOIANKAinPOEENIANAIAAEEA 

MENOZYnOnANTflNMENMAPTYPEITAITnN 

ElZHAEONTriNEIZTONnONTONnOAEITAN 

Eni4>IAAN0PnniAIKAIEYNOIAIKAinAPA 

rENOMENOZAEEIZTANHOAINZEMNilZMEN 

nPOEZTATAZEniAAMIAZnPOZTPEH'ATO 

AEEIZriAHONAZEAniAAZTONTEAAMONKAl 

NOTES. 
Line  2.  2T/>«T»ya)  signifies    someUmes  Archons;    very   often    Praetor. 

Spunheim  de  P.  et  Us.  Num.  Antiq. 
.].    i).  Ttpoa-TKiriu.     In  the  Inscrip.  Berenic.  we  have  Eu^nfro»  tr^frx- 

ffl<x>  sratwfttmf,  benevolam  curam  impendent. — In  Grutcr,  p.  H6', 

'Ayxupa;  tfpaffTcirni  is  Ancyrce  presses* 

I.  10.  In  this  line  Dr.  Chandler'i  Copy  gives  OTTflS  for  ATTO2. 
I.  14.  TonON  is  inserted  for  IIONTON  in  Chandler's  Copy. 
1.  15.  Tlttptfytvo/Atvo;.     The  word  occurs  very  frequently  in  inscriptions. 

In  the  Inscrip.  Berenic.  we  read  Tlu£ttyiv»<!i1s  tif  TJJ»  i*»g%ti'*v, 

prnvinciam  ingressus.     In  the  Lacedemonian  decree  concerning 

Timotheus,  it  is  naj^/^svof. 

2  A  2  'J''u'  2'' 


358  FROM   NICHOLAEF, 

TOYZIAtflTAZAAEnOAIZAIATETAZEIZEAY 

TANEYEPfEZIAZKAIAIATOTOYANAPOZKAl 

THNnPOrONnNAEinMAEniTAAHONHrHZA 

TOMHAZAMHirrONAYTOYTANnAPOYZIANA<l>E 

MENOTEAAMOZENEKEAEYZATOTOIZZTPA 

TArOIZTEIMAZAITONANAPAAIAAHAEAO 

XOAIEHAINHZOAIMENOPONTANABABOY 

OABIOnOAEITANEniTAIAIANEKEinOTITON 

AAMONKAIAIAHPOrONnNnPONOIANEIMENAE 

AYTONKAinOAEITANKAITOYZEKrONOYZAY 

TOYKAinOTirPA<t>HMENnO0ANKA0EAHTAN 

EKATOZTYHNTEOHMENAEAYTOYKAIEIKO 

NAEniXPYZONENTniBOYAEYTHPiniEN 

TOnHIHIMHAAAOZEXEIKAIEnirPA4>ANEni 

TPAS'AITANnPOAEAHAnMENANAIAnEMS'AA 

ZOAIAEKAITO4'A<NZMATOYTOAIEniZTO 

AAZTOIZOABIOnOAEITANAPXOYZININAKAIA 

nATPIZAYTOYTAZBYZANTIflNEYNOIAZriPOZ 

TONANAPAKAITEIMAZAIZOHTAI 


NOTES. 

Line  24.  A.tba%0cu.  The  common  formula ;  as  Aibe%fai  "5,a.v£,iuv  rots  x.'ea- 
fj.it;  xa.)  <ra  vtti\{!  ivruiyiirui  THUS  nt(>tiyiv<rKs<  ChishulJ.  Ant.  As. 
116.  The  imperative  is  sometimes  used,  when  it  begins  a  sentence  ; 
as  in  Lucian,  In  Deorum  Cone.  At%o%ta  c?  /Jot/X>i  KKI  TM  J»/t» 
and  in  Demosthenes,  De  Cor.  c.  27,  when  the  infinitive  is  used, 
it  depends  on  ilfty,  as  in  this  inscription. 

1. 27.  nPONOIA,  in  Chandler's  Copy,  for  HPONOIAN. 

1.  29.  nOTIFPAOHNAI,  in  Chandler,  for  nOTirPA*HMEN. 

1.  39.  TE0HNAI,  in  Chandler,  for  TE0HMEN. 


TO    ODESSA.  359 

A  fifth  inscription  mentions  the  erection  of  a    CHAP. 

IX 

portico  by  Ababus,  at  his  own  expense ;  it  is  of       T'   . 
the  time  of  Tiberius :  the  preceding  one,  there- 
fore, may  be  of  the  same  age. 

AYTOKPATOPIKAIZAPIOEHIOEOYYiniZE 

BAZTniAPXIEPEIMEriZTninATPiriATPIAOZ 

KAIAYTOKPATOPIIEBAZTIllOEOYYiniTI 

BEPiniKAIZAPIKAITniAHMniABABOZ 

KAAAIZOENOYZEKTONIAinNANEOH 

KETHNZTOAN 

The  sixth,  as  well  as  the  first,  is  still  remaining 
in  the  Church  of  Nicholaef,  upon  a  bas-relief, 
believed  to  have  been  also  found  at  Olbiopolis : 
the  words  of  that  inscription  are  of  very  little 
moment. 

ZTPATONinPnTOMAXOZ 
XPHZTEXAIPE 

The  bas-relief  is  divided  into  two  separate 
parts,  placed  one  over  the  other,  each  afford- 
ing a  different  subject1.  The  lower  division 
represents  either  the  ceremony  of  Lectisternium, 
or  the  family  of  some  person  confined  to  his 
couch  by  sickness.  A  female  figure  is  sitting 
by  him  in  a  chair ;  and  a  child  upon  her  left 


(1)  The  stone  is  six  feet  nine  iuchcs  in  length  ;  its  breadth,  two  feet 
six  inches. 


360  FROM    NICHOLAEF, 

CIixP  knee  presents  to  him  a  small  vessel,  like  a 
wine-glass.  A  similar  vessel  is  represented 
upon  a  table  by  the  couch:  there  are  two 
other  children,  one  on  either  side,  in  the  fore- 
ground of  the  scene.  In  the  upper  division 
is  a  figure  on  horseback,  holding  an  arrow,  or 
lance,  as  if  in  the  act  of  casting  it ;  and  before 
the  horse  is  a  boy  with  a  dog,  leaping  at  the 
horse:  from  all  this  it  is  probable  that  the 
upper  part  represents  one  of  those  stuffed 
equestrian  figures,  mentioned  in  p.  120,-  as 
being  found  near  to  the  Borysthenes.  Above 
the  equestrian  figure  is  the  inscription  already 
given. 

Since  the  publication  of  the  first  edition 
of  this  volume,  Charles  Kelsall,  Esq.  M.  A.  of 
Trinity  College,  Cambridge,  has  enriched  the 
Collection  of  Olbiopolitan  Inscriptions  by  the 
addition  of  three  others,  found  in  the  ruins  of 
the  place,  and  by  him  brought  from  that  coun- 
try '.  The  original  marbles  are  now  preserved 


(l)  Mr.  Kelsall  is  the  author  of  "A  Letter  from  //thens."  He  has 
alr«o  published  a  very  spirited  translation  of  Cicero's  "  Two  last  Plead- 
ings against  ferres,"  illustrated  with  many  valuable  notes,  containing 
an  account  of  the  Minor  Sicilian  Cities,  Inscriptions,  &c.  To  this  last 
work,  a  Postscript  is  subjoined  by  the  same  author,  with  his  inter- 
esting remarks  on  the  state  of  Modern  Sicily. 


TO   ODESSA.  361 

in  the  Museum  at  Tulazyn :  they  have  also  been    CHAP. 
recorded  by  Count  John  Potocki. 

ApxnoYAmnnANO 

OKAEITX1KAIMAZTO 


ozznzipmoKAiAi 

OTHNZTHAANOAAOZ 
THZENMNHMHNKAI 

The    above    commemorates   the    gratitude    of 
the  inhabitants   of   Olbiopolis   to   the    Emperor 

Trajan  \ 

AITlOZnOAAOIZKAl  .   .  . 
AYOAIPETOSnOAAA  .... 
THZEHAPXEIOZYnA    .... 

ZAPMATIAZBAZIAEIZ 

<!>EIZAMEINOZMOEn 

AYNATAITHEH 

AAZYM4>EPO 

OEIH  BYAENZ  .... 
KYPIOYZ  .... 

TOYAN ABA 

TOI  ME 

This  inscription  probably  records  the  gratitude 

(2)  Inscriptions  become  doubly  valuable  when  they  serve  to  illus- 
trate History.  Brotier,  in  his  Supplement  to  the  Histories  of  Tacitus  f, 
has  these  words  :  "  Redditi  Sarmatis  Jazy gibus  agri  quos  Deeebalus 
occupaverat."  This  Deeebalus  was  a  king  of  Dacia,  who;  in  his  war 

with 
t  Brot.  Tacit.  Vol.  V.    p.  171. 


362  FROM  NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP,    of  a   malefactor,  who  had  obtained  remissior 
of  punishment. 

AXIAAEinONTAPXH 

OinEPINEIKHPATON 

NEIKHPATOYNEJ1 

TEPONAPXONTEZ 

ZIlKPATHZANTI<l>nNTOZ 

EYPHEHBIOZZTPATflNOZ 

HEAAIOZYriANEOZ 

XAPIZTHPION 
IEPATEYONTOZ 
MOYKOYNAKYPOYTOA 

The  rest  of  this  valuable  inscription  is  not  legible. 
It  records  the  dedication,  probably,  of  a  statue  to 
Achilles,  whose  name  appears  with  a  new  epithet. 
It  tends  to  confirm  what  antient  authors  have 
asserted,  of  the  importance  attached  to  the 
worship  of  that  hero  by  various  tribes  on  the 
borders  of  the  Euxine.  From  the  foregoing 
inscriptions,  we  may  form  some  idea  of  the 
peculiarities  of  the  Scythian  dialect,  proving 
what  Dio  has  said  relative  to  the  ignorance  of 


with  the  Romans,  got  possession  of  some  lands  which  belonged  to  the 
Sarmatian  Jazygcs :  when  he  had  concluded  peace  with  Home,  he 
resigned  these  lands  to  Trajan,  who  restored  them  to  their  former 
possessors.  This  Inscription,  therefore,  is  probably  upon  the  fragment 
of  a  pedestal  which  supported  a  statue  of  Trajan  in  the  Forum  of 
Olbiopolis. 


TO  ODESSA.  363 

the  Sarmatian  Greeks.     May  we  not  infer,   that     CHAU. 

IX 

these  games   in  honour  of  Achilles  were  cele-  .-     T  '_. 
brated  on  the  AXIAAEH2  APOMO2,  a  tongue  of 
land  not  very  far  from  Olbia  ? 

The  different  medals    of    Olbiopolis,    repre-  Medals. 
senting  the  head  of  Ceres;  that   of  a   bull;  an 
eagle  standing  on  a  dolphin;    a  bow  and  quiver; 
or  an  ear  of  corn ;  have    for   their  legend   the 
word  OABlonOAITEHN.    They  are  all  of  them 
exceedingly  rare.    We  obtained  one  of  bronze,  in 
high   preservation,   at  Nicholaef,  differing  from 
any  we  have  yet  seen  described '.     In  front  it 
has  a  bearded  head  of  Pan,  with  horns  ,•  and 
for  reverse,  a  bow  and  quiver,  with  an  axe,    the 
letters  OABIO,  and  the  monogram  HT.     Eckhel 
describes  a  medal   of  the  same  city  less  per- 
fectly preserved,  the  horns  of  the  figure  being 
unnoticed:   and  the  same  legend  is  not   found 
in   his  valuable  work 2.     Scymnus  Chius  ascer- 
tains with  great  precision  the  situation   of  the 
city s.     "  At  the  confluence,"  says  he,    "  of  the 
two  rivers,   Hypanis  and  Borysthenes,  is  a  city, 
formerly  called  Olbia,   and  since  Borysthenes,  by 
the  Greeks.     The  Milesians  built  it,  during  the 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter. 

(2)  DoctrinaNum.  Vet.  Par.  I.  vol.  II.   Vindob.  1794. 

(3)  Scymnus  Chius,  vol.  II.  p.  46.     Oxon.  1703. 


364  FROM  NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP,    empire  of  the  Medes"     Strabo mentions  it  under 

1  A.. 

the  same  name,  and  describes  it  as  a  great 
emporium,  founded  by  the  Milesians1.  Pliny 
says  that  it  had  formerly  borne  the  name  of 
Miletopolis,  as  well  as  Olbiopolis*.  Casaubon 
derives  the  former  appellation  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  origin3:  the  latter  is  however 
the  name  extant  upon  medals  of  the  city. 
According  to  Pliny's  account,  it  stood  at  the 
distance  of  fifteen  miles  from  the  sea4;  but 
Casaubon  suggesting  a  different  reading,  as 
reconcileable  to  Strabo,  and  confirmed  by  the 
authority  of  Dio  Chrysostom,  makes  the  distance 
equal  to  twenty-five  miles,  which  is  nearer  to 
truth*.  Some  have  supposed  the  site  of  it 
to  have  been  that  of  Oczakof;  but  the  appear- 
ance of  its  ruins  proves  the  contrary.  As  for 
Oczakof,  lately  so  well  known,  not  a  stone  now 
remains,  to  tell  where  it  stood.  Without  a 
guide,  it  would  be  impossible  to  ascertain  its 
former  position;  every  trace  of  it  having  dis- 
appeared. 

Admiral    Fbndazen    invited   us    to    dinner : 


(1)  Slrab.  lib.  vii.  p.  442.  ed.  Oxon. 

(2)  Pitn.  lib.  iv.  c.  12. 

(3)  Comment,  in  Strab.  Geog.    ed.  Ojcon.  p.  44.. 

(4)  Plin.     Vid.  supra. 

f5)    Casaubon.  Comment,  in  Strab.  Geog.    ed.  O.ton.  p.  442. 


TO    ODESSA.  365 

hearing  of  our  intention  to  undertake  a  journey  CHAP. 
by  land  to  Constantinople,  he  offered  us  permission  y  ^ '  _• 
to  sail  in  a  packet  belonging  to  the  Crown, 
from  Odessa.  This  we  readily  accepted ;  but 
the  plan  did  not  suit  the  views  of  the  Vice- 
Admiral,  Count  Vomovic,  a  Sclavonian,  who  had 
other  intentions  with  regard  to  that  vessel, 
and  by  whose  subsequent  intrigues  we  were 
prevented  from  using  it.  Admiral  Priestman,  Admiral 
who  was  then  at  Nicholaef,  acted  towards  us  Prustman- 
with  unbounded  hospitality  and  friendship.  It 
was  principally  to  this  worthy  officer  that  we 
were  indebted  for  the  particulars  of  Mr.  Howard's 
death,  as  they  have  been  already  related. 
In  the  short  acquaintance  we  formed  with 
him,  the  blunt  sincerity  of  his  character,  his 
openness  and  benevolence  of  heart,  so  greatly 
endeared  him  to  us,  that  we  deeply  lamented 
the  loss  of  his  society.  That  so  distinguished 
a  naval  officer  should  be  in  the  service  of  our 
enemies,  merely  from  want  of  employment  at 
home,  cannot  be  too  much  regretted.  Great 
Britain  has  not,  perhaps,  a  better  or  a  braver 
seaman.  When  we  left  Nicholaef,  he  conveyed 
us  over  the  Bog,  in  his  barge  with  twelve  oars  : 
this  river  is  here  nearly  three  miles  wide. 
We  were  also  accompanied  by  Mr.  Young,  an 
engineer,  another  Englishman  of  talent  in 
the  service  of  Russia,  from  whom  we  also 


366  FROM  NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP,  experienced  all  possible  attention  and  civility. 
The  Baron  deBar,  and  Count  Heiden,  -administered 
to  us  every  kindness  it  was  in  their  power  to 
bestow ;  and  we  quitted  Nicholaef  full  of  gra- 
titude for  acts  of  benignity,  to  which,  if  we 
except  the  hospitality  of  Professor  Pallas,  we 
had  long  been  strangers. 

Our  journey  from  Nicholaef  to  Odessa  will  be 
best  seen  by  reference  to  any  good  map  of 
the  South  of  Russia;  geographical  features  being 
the  only  objects  that  occurred.  The  whole  is 
a  flat  steppe,  intersected  by  streams  and  by 
inlets  of  sea  water1,  where  we  were  con- 
veyed sometimes  in  boats,  and  sometimes  over 
shallows,  sitting  in  the  carriage a.  We  noticed 
several  remarkable  salt  lakes,  and,  by  the  last 
post-house  before  arriving  at  Odessa,  an  aggre- 


(1)  See  the  interesting  communication  upon  the  subject  of  this 
watery  district,in  No. II.  of  the  Appendix  to  the  former  Volume. 

(2)  It  was  in  this  steppe  that  the  author  discovered  a  new  species  of 
Anchusa,  which  has  been  named  The  Rough  Bristly  Bugloss,  ANCHUSA 
EXASPERATA.     "  Anchusa  exasperata,  caule  ramosissimo,  hispido ;  foliis 
linearibus  integerrimis,   verrucoso-setigeiis ;  racemis  terminalibus,  caly- 
cibus  ciliatis,pedicelli$  brevissimis."    Some  other  plants  were  also  added 
to  his  collection   from  these  plains  ;  viz.  Siberian  Barberry,  Berbcris 
Sibirica,    this  also  grows  near  Cherson ;    Horned   Poppy,    Chelidonium 
corniculatum ;    Moldavian    Balm,    Dracocephalum  Moldavicum ;   Sea 
Holly,    Eryngium   maritimum ;    Flea- wort,     or    Clammy    Plantain, 
Plantago  psyllium ;    and   Prostrate    Meadow-grass,    Poa  Eragrostis. 
The  Leontice  Odessena  is  common  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Odessa. 


TO   ODESSA.  367 

gation  of  mineralized  sea-shells,  used  for  a  CHAP. 
material  in  building  the  cottages,  of  such 
extraordinary  beauty  and  perfection,  as  to 
merit  more  particular  description.  The  author 
has  since  annually  exhibited  a  specimen  of  this 
singular  deposit,  in  the  Mineralogical  Lectures 
given  to  the  University  of  Cambridge;  and, 
since  it  seems  to  offer  some  evidence  of  a 
remarkable  change  sustained  by  animal  matter 
in  its  decomposition,  as  well  as  a  striking 
proof  of  the  draining  of  the  Great  Oriental 
Plain  by  means  of  the  Canal  of  Constantinople, 
he  begs  leave  to  state  here,  as  briefly  as  pos- 
sible, his  own  observation  upon  this  subject. 


It  is  an  opinion  of  the  celebrated  Bournon,  O 
that,  whenever  the  abode  of  a  testaceous  animal  the  Odessa 
ceases  to  conduce  to  purposes  of  life,  and  is 
abandoned  by  its  inhabitant,  it  becomes  pro- 
perly a  mineral3;  that,  for  example,  as  a 
specimen  of  carbonated  lime,  it  possesses,  in  an 
eminent  degree,  the  characters  and  fracture  of 
that  substance,  when  indurated  or  crystallized. 
In  proof  of  this,  he  once  exhibited  to  the  author, 
in  the  casual  fracture  of  a  common  oyster-shell, 
the  same  relative  position  of  surfaces  which  is 


(3)    Trait^   complet  de   la    Chaux   carbonate,  &c.   par  Bournon, 
pp.310,  314. 


368  FROM   NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP,  found  in  the  Iceland  spar,  and  as  accurately 
corresponding  with  the  obtuse  angle  of  that 
mineral  as  if  they  had  been  regulated  by  the 
goniometer.  Before  Saussure  discovered  strata 
of  limestone  lying  beneath  rocks  of  the  most 
antient  formation,  the  French  endeavoured  to 
establish  a  theory,  that  all  the  carbonated  lime 
upon  the  surface  of  the  globe  resulted  from 
the  decomposition  of  animal  matter,  deposited 
during  a  series  of  ages.  Whosoever  has  at- 
tended to  the  appearances  left  by  testaceous 
animals,  particularly  in  the  cavities  of  the  Cornu 
Ammonis,  must  have  been  struck  with  the 
remarkable  circumstance,  that  where  an  escape 
of  the  fleshy  part  of  the  animal  has  been  pre- 
cluded by  the  surrounding  shell,  pure  and 
perfect  crystals  of  carbonated  lime  have  been 
formed ;  and  must  also  frequently  have  remarked, 
that  shells  alone,  independent  of  the  admission 
of  any  extraneous  substance,  have,  by  their 
deposit,  constituted  immense  strata  of  limestone. 
For  the  truth  of  this,  it  is  unnecessary  to  ad- 
duce a  more  striking  example  than  the  instance 
afforded  of  the  limestone  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Odessa.  It  is  in  a  semi-indurated  state ;  but, 
like  the  Ketton-stone\  and  almost  every  other 


(l)  This  stone,  by  a  very  recent  analysis  of  the  Rev.  J.  Holme,  of 
St.  Peter's  College,  Cambridge,  is  found  to  be  oiie  of  the  purest 
combinations  of  lime  and  carbonic  acid. 


TO    ODESSA.  369 

variety  of  limestone  used  for  architectural  pur-  CHAP. 
poses,  it  hardens  by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  *  .y.  > 
Owing  to  this,  and  also  to  its  remarkable  light- 
ness, it  has  become  a  favourite  material  for 
building.  When  examined  closely,  it  displays, 
throughout  the  entire  mass,  no  other  appear- 
ance than  an  aggregate  of  small  cockle-shells,  all 
exactly  of  the  same  size,  and  perfect  in  their 
forms,  but  crumbling  in  the  hand,  and  being 
coloured  by  the  yellow  or  the  red  oxide  of  iron. 
The  chemical  analysis  of  this  mineral  is  nearly 
that  of  the  Ketton-stone ;  yielding  no  other  ingre- 
dients than  lime  and  carbonic  acid,  excepting  a 
very  small  proportion  of  the  oxide  of  iron.  The 
stratum  whence  it  is  dug  is  of  considerable 
thickness,  and  lies  several  yards  above  the  pre- 
sent level  of  the  Black  Sea.  It  may  be  noticed 
in  every  part  of  the  coast,  and  especially  within 
the  port  of  Odessa.  Similar  appearances  may 
be  also  traced  the  whole  way  from  the  Black  Sea, 
towards  the  north,  as  far  as  the  forty-eighth 
line  of  latitude,  and  perhaps  over  all  Asiatic 
Tahtary,  whence  it  follows,  that  the  level  of 
the  waters  appearing  at  intervals  between  the 
parallels  of  French  longitude  4O  and  80,  was  not 
always  what  it  is  now :  and,  that  the  period  of 
its  incipient  fall  may  be  traced  to  an  aera  subse- 
quent to  that  of  the  Scriptural  Deluge,  seems 
evident,  not  only  from  history,  but  also  by 


370  FROM    NICHOLAEF, 

CHAP,  reference  to  existing  natural  phenomena.  At 
•  -T-  *  the  bursting  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus,  whether 
quences  m  consequence  of  a  volcano,  whose  vestiges  are 
IS  ted  from  yet-  visible,  or  of  immense  pressure  caused  by 
the  Open-  an  accumulated  ocean  against  the  mound  there 

ing  of  the 

Thracian    presented,  the  whole  of  Greece  experienced  an 

Bosporus. 

inundation  :  the  memory  of  this  was  preserved 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Samothrace,  so  late  as  the 
time  of  Diodorus  Siculus1',  and  its  effects  are 
still  discernible  in  the  form  of  all  the  islands 
in  the  south  of  the  Archipelago,  which  slope 
towards  the  north,  and  are  precipitous  upon 
their  southern  shores.  Not  therefore  to  rely 
upon  those  equivocal  legends  of  antient  days, 
which  pretend  that  Orpheus  with  the  Argonauts 
passed  into  the  Baltic  over  the  vast  expanse  of 
water  then  uniting  it  with  the  Euxine,  we  may 
reasonably  conclude,  as  it  has  been  asserted 
by  Tournefort,  by  Pallas,  and  by  other  celebrated 
men,  that  the  Aral,  the  Caspian,  and  the  Black 
Sea,  were  once  combined  ;  and  that  the  whole 
of  the  Great  Eastern  Plain  of  Tahtary  was  one 
prodigious  bed  of  water.  The  draining,  per- 
petually taking  place,  by  the  two  channels  of 
Taman  and  Constantinople,  is  by  some  deemed 
to  be  greater  at  this  time  than  the  produce  of 
all  the  rivers  flowing  into  the  Sea  o 


(1)  Diodor.  Sic.  lib.  5.   Biblioth.  Hist. 


TO    ODESSA.  371 

into  the  Black  Sea.     The  former  has  become  so    CHAP. 

IX. 

shallow,  that  during  certain  winds,  as  before  y.  v-  > 
related,  a  passage  may  be  effected  by  land  from 
Taganrog  to  Azof,  through  the  bed  of  the  sea. 
Ships,  formerly  sailing  to  Taganrog  and  to  the 
Mouths  of  the  Don,  are  now  unable  to  approach 
either  to  the  one  or  to  the  other :  from  all  this, 
it  may  not  be  unreasonable  to  conclude,  that 
both  the  Black  Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Azof,  by  the 
diminution  their  waters  hourly  sustain,  will  at 
some  future  period  become  a  series  of  marsh 
lands,  intersected  only  by  the  course  and 
junction  of  the  rivers  flowing  into  them.  An 
opposite  opinion  was  however  maintained  by 
the  learned  Tournefort,  as  to  the  quantity  of 
water  flowing  through  the  Canal  of  Constan- 
tinople: he  believed  that  less  water  is  discharged 
by  that  Canal  than  by  any  one  of  the  great  rivers 
which  fall  into  those  seas2.  The  same  author 
expresses  therefore  his  surprise  that  the  Black 
Sea  does  not  increase,  and  observes  that  it 
receives  more  rivers  than  the  Mediterranean ;  as 
if  unmindful  that  the  Mediterranean  contains  the 
body  of  all  the  rivers  that  flow  into  the  Mceotis 
and  the  Black  Sea.  Other  writers  also,  believing 
that  more  water  flows  into,  than  out  of,  the 


(2)  Tournefwt,  Voy. du  Levant,  torn. II.  Utt.XV.  p.404.  I,ym,\ir.. 
VOL.  II.  2  T5 


3/2  ODESSA. 

CHAP.    Black  Sea,  endeavour  to  account  for  its  present 
level,  either  by  imagining  a  subterraneous  chan- 
nel1, or  an  effect  of  evaporation2.     The  Russians 
entertain  notions  of  a  subterraneous  channel,  in 
order  to  account  for  the  loss  of  water  in  the 
Caspian;  the  Volga  being  as  considerable  a  river 
as  any  other  falling  into  the  Black  Sea.    The  truth 
perhaps  is,  that  the  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Black 
Sea  and  into  the  Sea  of  Azof  do  not  contribute 
a  greater  body  of  water  than  that  which  escapes 
by  the  Canal  of  Constantinople;  and  therefore, 
admitting  an  effect  of  evaporation,  the  level  of 
the  Black  Sea  insensibly  falls.     The  Don,  the 
Kuban,  the  Phase,  the  Dnieper,  the  Dniester,  the 
Danube,  and  many  other  rivers  making  a  great 
figure   in    geography,   have    a    less    important 
appearance  when  surveyed  at  their  embouchures. 
The  greatest  of  them  all,  the  Danube,  is  very 
shallow  at  its  mouth ;  its  waters,  extended  over 
an  immense  surface,  lie  stagnating  in  shallow 
marshes,  among  an  infinity  of  reeds  and  other 
aquatic   plants,    subject   to   very   considerable 
evaporation,  besides  the  loss  sustained  during 
its  passage  to  the  sea. 


The  building  of  tne  present  town  of  Odessa, 


perorre-        an(J    tllC    COllStrUCtlOll    of   the    pid*    fol'     its    pOl't, 
•pectutg 

Odessa. 

(l)  Voyage  RAnitcltarsc,  Km.  I.  c.  1. 
(51)  Ibid. 


ODESSA.  373 

were  works  carried  on  entirely  under  the  direc-    CHAP. 

J  ix. 

tion  of  Admiral  Ribas,  who  captured  the  place  <  -y  -> 
from  the  Turks.  The  late  Empress  entrusted 
every  thing  concerning  it  into  his  hands,  as  a 
mark  of  her  approbation  of  his  conduct :  the 
Emperor  PAUL,  with  a  view  of  thwarting  his  mo- 
ther's benevolent  design,  dismissed  the  Admiral 
altogether,  leaving  his  large  family  destitute  of 
any  means  of  support.  This  was  exactly  the 
sort  of  system  pursued  by  that  monarch,  when 
we  were  in  Russia,  towards  every  veteran  in  his 
service.  Never  was  the  remark  of  FREDERICK  of 
PRUSSIA  more  completely  verified,  "  Officers  are 
like  lemons  :  we  squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  cast  aiuay 
the  rincir  We  had  an  opportunity  to  examine  a  Number  of 

discarded 

catalogue  of  officers  who  had  resigned,  or  who  officers. 
had  been  dismissed  the  service,  since  PAUL'S 
accession.  Including  the  civil  list,  the  persons 
excluded  amounted  to  the  astonishing  number 
of  thirty  thousand ;  eighteen  thousand  dismissed 
by  order;  and  twelve  thousand  who  had 
voluntarily  resigned.  In  the  list  of  these,  ap- 
peared the  names  of  some  individuals  who  had 
only  been  in  office  three  days ;  others  a  week  : 
thus  the  whole  body  of  officers  in  the  Emperor's 
service  had  been  changed  with  such  surprising 
rapidity,  that  there  was  hardly  a  family  in  all 
Russia  unaffected  by  his  caprice.  The  bad 
policy  of  this  was  even  then  evident;  for  as 
2  B  2 


3/4  ODESSA. 

everv  one  knew  that  the  number  of  disaffected 
persons  by  far  exceeded  the  list  of  those  whom, 
fear  or  mercenary  consideration  kept  in  sub- 
ordination, it  was  apprehended  that  the  whole 
empire,  in  consequence  of  the  slightest  emotion, 
would  be  thrown  into  disorder.  The  first  con- 
sequence of  any  such  disturbance  would  have 
been  the  massacre  of  all  the  nobles :  a  regard 
for  their  own  safety  was  the  only  bond,  on  the 
part  of  the  nobility,  which  held  them  from 
betraying  their  disaffection.  Still  it  was  evident 
that  the  life  of  the  Sovereign  would  soon  atone 
for  his  disgraceful  tyranny;  and  the  result  has 
proved  that  his  death  was  even  nearer  than  we 
then  apprehended. 

During  the  time  that  Admiral  Ril-as  held  the 
direction  of  affairs  at  Odessa,  a  plan  was  pro- 
jected for  the  construction  of  a  pier,  calculated 
to  render  the  port  alike  an  object  of  utility  and 
of  grandeur.  This  project  was  submitted  to  the 
Emperor's  consideration,  who  ordered  it  to  be 
put  in  execution.  It  was  therefore  naturally 
expected,  that  the  Sovereign,  who  was  to  reap 
every  advantage  from  the  proposed  undertaking, 
would  so  far  patronize  it,  as  to  advance  the 
money  for  its  completion.  PAUL  however  hesi- 
tated, and  the  work  ceased.  In  the  mean  time, 
the  commerce  of  Odessa  languished ;  the  rising 


ODESSA.  3/5 

prosperity  of  the  town  was  checked;  the  build-    CHAP. 

IX.. 

ings  were  not  completed ;  the  merchants  began  < — ,~ ' 
to  leave  the  place;  and  the  necessity  of  the 
undertaking  became  daily  more  and  more 
alarmingly  visible.  At  last,  petition  after 
petition  having  been  offered  in  vain,  the  matter 
came  to  a  singular  issue.  The  Emperor  resolved  Usurious 

practices  of 

to  turn  usurer.  He  proposed  to  lend  them  a  the  Sove- 
sum  of  money,  at  enormous  interest,  and  upon 
the  strongest  security;  yet  left  the  inhabitants 
no  option,  but  compelled  them  to  accept  the 
loan  upon  his  own  terms,  and  ordered  the  work 
to  be  carried  on.  The  inhabitants,  finding  they 
could  offer  no  security  equal  to  the  whole  charge, 
which  was  estimated  at  five  hundred  thousand 
roubles,  began  to  bargain  with  their  Sovereign 
as  with  a  Jew;  begging  his  permission  to 
borrow  of  him  only  half  the  sum  proposed, 
and  to  construct  a  pier  upon  a  smaller  scale. 
To  this  PAUL  consented ;  and  the  work, 
so  planned,  was  nearly  finished  when  we 
arrived;  but,  to  those  who  have  seen  the 
original  design,  the  meanness  and  insuffi- 
ciency of  the  undertaking  is  lamentably  con- 
spicuous. 

The  town  of  Odessa  is  situate  close  to  the  Further 

i  .     -  ji      Account  of 

coast,   which    is   here    very  lofty,    and  much  Odessa. 


ODESSA. 


exposed  to  winds'.  The  air  is  reckoned  pure, 
and  remarkably  wholesome.  Corn  is  the  prin- 
cipal article  of  exportation.  The  imports  are, 
dried  and  conserved  fruits  from  Constantinople, 
Greek  wines,  tobacco,  and  other  Turkish 


(l)  "  Odessa  is  a  very  interesting  place;  and  being  the  seat  of  go- 
vernment, and  the  only  quarantine  allowed,  except  Caffa  and  Taganrog, 
is,  though  of  very  late  erection,  already  wealthy  and  flourishing. 
Too  much  praise  cannot  be  given  to  the  Duke  of  Richelieu,  to  whose 
administration,  not  to  any  natural  advantages,  this  town  owes  its 
prosperity.  The  Bay  is  good  and  secure,  but  all  round  is  desert ;  and 
it  labours  under  the  want  of  a  navigable  river,  and  a  great  scarcity  of 
fresh  water.  There  are  two  wells  in  the  town,  both  brackish  ;  and  a 
third,  a  very  fine  one,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay:  a  fourth  had 
been  just  discovered  when  I  was  there,  in  the  garden  of  an  Italian 
merchant,  and  was  talked  of  like  a  silver  mine.  All  commodities  are 
either  brought  in  barks  from  Cherson,  or  drawn  over  the  steppe  by  oxen, 
who  were  seen  lying  in  the  streets  and  on  the  new  quay,  greatly  ex- 
hausted with  thirst,  and  almost  furious  in  their  struggles  to  get  at  the 
water,  when  it  was  poured  into  the  troughs.  The  situation  of  the 
town,  however,  is  healthy  and  pleasant  in  other  respects.  The  qua- 
rantine is  large,  aud  well  constructed. 

"  As  far  as  I  could  learn,  (and  I  made  many  inquiries,)  it  was  very 
bad  policy  to  fix  their  quarantine  at  Odessa,  instead  of  Otchakof, 
where  was  a  city  and  fortress  ready  built,  in  a  situation  perfectly 
secure  from  the  Turks,  and  which,  lying  at  the  junctions  of  the  Bog 
and  Dnieper,  is  the  natural  emporium  of  these  seas.  The  harbour, 
I  understand,  is  perfectly  secure  ;  and,  even  if  the  Liman  were  unsafe, 
the  Bog  affords  a  constant  shelter.  The  observation  generally  made 
was,  the  necessity  of  a  secure  quarantine  ;  to  which  it  was  answered, 
that  the  Point  of  Kinburn  afforded  a  situation  even  more  secure  than 
Odessa.  If  these  facts  are  true,  a  wise  Government  would  probably, 
without  discouraging  Odessa,  restore  the  quarantine  to  Otchakof,  and 
allow  them  both  to  take  their  chance  in  a  fair  competition.  This 
however  seems  little  understood  in  Russia :  Potemkin  had  no  idea  of 
encouraging  Cherson,  but  by  ruining  Taganrog:  and  at  present  Cherson 
is  to  be  sacrificed  to  the  new  favourite,  Odessa."  Heber's  MS.  Journal. 


ODESSA.  377 

merchandize.   The  villages  in  the  neighbourhood 
produce  butter  and  cheese;  these  are  rarities 
at  table  in  the  South  of  Russia.     Potatoes,  seldom 
seen  in  other  towns,  are  sold  in  the  market,  and 
they  are  even  carried  as   presents  to  Constan- 
tinople.    The  melons  of  the   neighbourhood  are 
remarkably  fine.     They   have    received    from 
Turkey  one  species  superior  in  flavour  to  any 
perhaps   known  in  the  world.      The  inside  of 
this  melon  is  of  a  green  colour ;  and  the  seed, 
after  it  is  opened,  is  found  in  a  cavity  in  the 
centre,  quite   detached  from  the  sides  of  the 
fruit,   in  a  dry  mealy   case,  or  bag,  in  shape 
resembling   the   seed  vessel    of  Indian  corn. 
This  remarkable  character  will   serve  to  dis- 
tinguish it  at  any  time.     The  inhabitants,  to 
preserve    the    seed,   pierce    those    bags  with 
skewers,  and  hang  them  up  in  their  houses2. 
The    water-melons  of    Odessa  are   sometimes 
superior  to  the  finest  that  are  sold  in  the  markets 
of  Naples,  and   they  are  nearly  equal  to  those 
found  upon  the  coast  of  Syria.      The   whole 
country  is  destitute   of  wood :    for  fuel  they 
burn  weeds  gathered  in  the  steppes,  as  well  as 
bundles  of  reeds  and  cow-dung :  this  last  they 
collect,  and  stick  upon  the  sides  of  their  houses; 


(2)    We  brought   some  seeds    to    England;    but  no  plants  were 
produced  from  them. 


378  ODESSA. 

CHAP,    a  custom  practised  in  the  Isle  of  Portland,  and 

J.  J\.» 

^— V-" '  throughout  the  whole  county  of  Cornwall. 

Odessa  is  remarkable  for  the  superior  flavour 
of  its  mutton;  which,  however,  does  not  equal 
that  of  the  Crimea.  The  sheep  are  slaughtered 
at  a  very  early  age,  and  brought  to  table  the 
day  they  are  killed :  the  mutton  cannot  there- 
fore be  eaten,  unless  it  be  boiled  until  it  falls 
to  pieces.  The  same  custom  prevails  with 
regard  to  poultry ;  the  fowls  are  neither  killed 
nor  picked  until  the  water  for  cooking  boils. 
Of  all  the  dishes  known  in  Russia,  there  is 
nothing  in  such  general  esteem,  from  the  prince 
to  the  peasant,  as  a  kind  of  pates,  called  piroghi. 
In  the  streets  of  Moscow  and  Petersburg,  these 
are  sold  upon  stalls.  They  are  well-tasted ;  but 
extremely  greasy,  and  often  full  of  oil ;  con- 
sisting of  minced  meat,  or  brains,  rolled  up  in 
pancakes,  which  are  afterwards  fried  in  butter 
or  in  oil,  and  served  hot.  The  rolls  described 
by  Bruce,  with  which  women  in  a  certain 
part  of  ^Ethiopia  feed  their  husbands,  are  nearly 
similar ;  only  the  meat  is  raw,  and  the  roll  is 
of  dough :  yet  the  mouth  of  a  Russian  prince 
might  perhaps  water  at  the  sight  of  the 
Ethiopian  piroghi1.  Pigeons  are  rarely  seen  at 

(1)  See  Butler's  description  of  a  Muscovite,  n  Note  to  p.  299  of  this 

Volume. 

I 


ODESSA.  379 

the  tables  of  the  Russians :  they  entertain  a  super- 
stitious veneration  for  these  birds,  because  the 
Holy  Ghost  assumed  the  form  of  a  dove.  They 
are  therefore  kept  more  for  amusement  than 
for  food,  and  are  often  maintained  with  great 
care,  at  an  enormous  expense.  The  nobles 
employ  servants  to  look  after  them,  and  to  teach 
them  a  number  of  tricks*. 

It  has  been  already  stated,  that  we  left  the  Acc°unt  of 

the  Passage 

Crimea  with  an  intention  to  undertake  a  journey  by  Land  to 

/-»  mi  .  Canstanti- 

by  land  to  Constantinople.  The  route  is  usually  nopie. 
practicable  from  Odessa,  by  the  way  of  Dubosar, 
upon  the  frontier,  to  Yassy,  Silistria,  and  Adria- 
nople.  On  account  of  the  rumoured  dangers 
that  might  be  apprehended  from  the  rebel 
adherents  of  Pasvan  cTOglou,  we  had  solicited, 
from  our  ambassador  at  the  Porte,  an  escort  of 
Janissaries  to  meet  us  at  Yassy.  The  road  is 
calculated  for  the  conveyance  of  any  kind  of 
wheeled  vehicle.  Prince  Nassau,  during  his 
legation  to  the  Porte,  had  been  accompanied 
by  nearly  an  hundred  carriages;  and  the 
Turkish  guard,  stationed  at  short  intervals 
the  whole  way,  renders  the  journey  secure. 
This  route  is  also  interesting,  on  account  of 


(2)  See  p.  141,  of  the  former  Volume. 


380  ODESSA. 

CHAP,    the  mountainous  district  through  which  it  leads, 

IX. 

in  parts  where  snow  is  said  to  remain  during 
the  whole  year;  and  also  from  the  circum- 
stance of  crossing  the  Danube  so  near  to  its 
embouchure.  Almost  immediately  after  leaving 
Silistria,  that  ridge  of  mountains  intervenes, 
which  was  antiently  called  H.EMUS  ;  hence  the 
descent  is  seldom  interrupted  the  whole  way  to 
jddrianople^rom  which  place  there  is  an  excellent 
road  to  Constantinople.  A  shorter  route,  but 
less  frequented,  and  less  convenient,  conducts 
the  traveller,  along  the  coast  of  the  Black  Sea, 
to  the  Thracian  Bosporus.  These  considerations 
strongly  instigated  us  to  pursue  our  intended 
expedition  by  land.  Circumstances  however 
occurred  to  induce  a  different  determination ; 
and,  although  we  narrowly  escaped  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Black  Sea  with  our  lives,  we  had 
ultimately  reason  to  rejoice ;  for  we  were  after- 
wards informed,  that  an  order  from  the  Russian 
Government  was  actually  expedited  to  Dubosar, 
with  instructions  for  our  apprehension,  and  a 
more  particular  examination  of  our  papers  and 
baggage  than  the  nature  of  them  would  have 
rendered  desirable '.  By  one  of  those  fortunate 
accidents  which  sometimes  befal  adventurers, 


(1)  Among  these  were  the  surveys  of  the  Russian  Ports  and  Arsenals, 
which  are  now  safely  deposited  in  the  Admiralty. 


ODESSA.  381 

we  found  in  the  port  of  Odessa,  a  Venetian  bri- 
gantine,  laden  with  corn,  bound  for  the  Adriatic ; 
whose  master,  //  Capitano  Francesco  Bergamini, 
not  only  eagerly  embraced  the  opportunity  of 
conveying  us  to  Constantinople,  but  promised 
also  to  assist  in  facilitating  our  escape,  by 
enforcing  the  validity  of  the  passport  we  had 
brought  with  us.  He  waited  only  the  arrival 
of  his  own  order  for  sailing,  from  the  office  of 
Nicholaef:  in  the  mean  time  we  made  every 
thing  ready  for  our  embarkation. 


CHAP.   X. 


VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA,  TO  THE  HARBOUR  OF 
INEADA  IN  TURKEY. 

Contrast  between  a  Russian  and  a  Greek — Tournef art's 
erroneous  Account  of  the  Black  Sea — Extraordinary 
Temperature  of  the  Climate — English  Commerce  in 
the  Black  Sea — Fortress  of  Odessa — Departure  for 
Turkey — Island  of  LEUCE — Accounts  of  it  ly  Antient 
Writers — Mouths  of  the  Danube — White  Dolphins — 
Observations  on  board  the  Moderato — Dreadful  Tem- 
pest— Harlour  of  Ineada — Plants — Appearance  of  the 
Turks — Mountaineers — Basaltic  Pillars  —  Theory  of 
their  Origin. 

"  x.        1  HE  contrast  between  a  Russian  and  a  Cossack, 
or  between  a  Russian  and  a  Tahtar,  has  perhaps 


ODESSA.  383 

already  been  sufficiently  delineated;  but  there 
is  a  third  point  of  opposition,  in  which  a  Russian 
may  be  viewed,  more  amusing  than  either  of 
these;  namely,  when  he  is  contrasted  with  a 
Greek.  The  situation  of  Odessa  is  not  very  Greek- 
remote  from  the  spot  where,  eighteen  centuries 
ago,  similar  comparisons  served  to  amuse  Ovid, 
during  his  melancholy  exile.  He  found  upon 
either  side  of  the  Danube  a  different  race  of  men. 
Towards  the  south  were  the  Get<e,  whose  origin 
was  the  same  as  that  of  the  Greeks,  and  whose 
mode  of  speech  he  describes  as  still  retaining 
corrupted  traces  of  the  Greek  language.  Upon 
the  north  were  the  Sarmatians,  the  progenitors 
of  the  Russians.  According  to  his  account, 
however,  both  to  the  Gette  and  Sarmak?  belonged 
the  same 

"Vox  fera,  trux  vultus,  verissima  Martis  imago : 
Non  coma,  non  ulla  barba  resecta  maim  l." 

Perhaps  we  are  not  authorized  in  considering 
the  modern  Greeks  as  legitimate  descendants  of 
the  Getce.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  former  are 
found  at  this  day,  negotiating  with  as  ferocious 
a  people  upon  the  Euxine  coast  as  Ovid  himself 
selected  for  the  originals  of  his  picture  of  the 
Barbarians  upon  the  Ister;  and  the  two  people 

(1)  Ovid.  Trist.  lib.  v.  Eleg.  VII. 


384  ODESSA. 

are  instantly  distinguished  from  each  other  by 
their  striking  peculiarity  of  feature.  In  order 
to  render  the  contrast  as  forcible  as  possible, 
let  us  select  a  Greek  from  any  of  the  islands  or 
shores  of  the  Archipelago,  and  place  him  by  the 
side  of  a  Russian.  The  latter,  particularly  if  he 
be  in  uniform,  and  of  a  rank  above  the  peasant, 
resembles  one  of  those  figures  which  children 
cut  out  in  wood;  requiring  considerable  address 
in  poising,  to  be  sustained  upon  its  legs.  The 
Greek,  on  the  other  hand,  active  and  lithy  as  a 
serpent,  twists  himself  into  every  variety  01 
posture,  and  stands  in  almost  every  attitude. 
Firm  upon  his  feet,  and  generally  exhibiting  a 
graceful  waving  line  of  figure,  he  seems  as  if, 
like  a  cat,  he  would  fall  upon  his  legs,  although 
tossed  in  any  direction.  The  features  of  the 
Greek  may  be  said  to  combine  those  of  the 
Portuguese  and  of  the  French ;  having  the  dark 
hair  and  eyes  of  the  former,  with  the  fixed 
grimace  of  the  latter.  Generally  speaking,  the 
men  among  the  Greeks  are  not  handsome ;  their 
stature  is  small,  although  well  proportioned. 
The  Russian,  too,  has  a  diminutive  person ;  but 
his  face  is  in  every  thing  the  reverse  of  that  of 
the  Greek ;  offering,  in  profile,  a  very  remarkable 
concavity.  This  concavity  is  increased  in  the  line 
of  a  Russian  peasant's  countenance,  by  the 
projection  of  the  beard  from  the  chin,  and 


ODESSA.  385 

a  quantity  of  bushy  hair    upon  the   forehead 
— "  Oraque   sunt    longis    horrida   tectct   comis." — 
A  line  traced  to  express  the  profile  of  a  Greek,  is, 
on  the  contrary,  convex  *.  A  remarkable  distance 
may  be  observed  between  the  nose  and   the 
mouth;    this  is  never  a  pleasing   character  in 
physiognomy,  as  it  gives  to  the  countenance  a 
knavish  hypocritical  expression.      The  Russian 
countenance  is  not  thus  characterized*      The 
Greek  has,  moreover,  frequently  a  wide  mouth, 
thick  lips,  and  very  large  teeth.     His  forehead 
is  low,  and  his  chin  small.     His  nose  partakes 
of  the  general  convexity  of  his  face,  rather  than 
of  that  partial  aquiline  which  is  considered  as  a 
characteristic  of  the  Roman  countenance ;  and, 
when    this    convexity    is    too   prominent,    the 
features    resemble    those   of   the    Fawns   and 
Satyrs    exhibited    by  antient   sculpture.      Of 
course,    a  description  of  this  kind,  calculated 
merely  for  amusement,  must  be  liable  to  many 
remarkable    exceptions.      The    inhabitants    of 
Greece  often  differ  from  each  other;     those  of 
Lacedamon,  and  of  all  the  western  coast  of  the 
Morea,     together    with    the    natives    of  Zante 
and  Cephalonia,  are  a  much  finer  race  of  men, 
havin"-     nobler     features    and    more    athletic 


(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  this  Chapter,  in  which  an  endeavour  has 
been  made  to  exhibit  the  profiles  of  the  Russian  and  the  Creek. 


386  ODESSA. 

CHLAP.   figures    than    any    of  the   inhabitants    of   the 
Archipelago. 

Our  anxiety  for  the  return  of  Captain  Ber- 
gaminis  messenger  from  Nicholaef  may  be  easily 
imagined.  We  had  nearly  terminated  our 
career  in  Russia ;  yet  prisoners,  under  confine- 
ment in  a  dungeon,  never  prayed  more  earnestly 
for  a  jail  delivery,  than  we  did  to  escape  from 
that  country.  So  surrounded  with  danger  was 
every  Englishman  at  this  time,  from  the  Baltic 
to  the  Black  Sea,  and  so  little  certain  of  being 
able  to  put  any  plan  in  execution,  that  we 
considered  it  more  than  an  even  chance  in 
favour  of  our  being  again  detained,  and  perhaps 
sent  back  the  whole  way  to  Petersburg.  During 
this  interval  of  suspense  and  apprehension,  a 
number  of  little  Turkish  boats  were  daily  sailing 
in  or  out  of  the  port  of  Odessa.  Although  they 
were  so  small  that  few  would  venture  in  such 
craft,  even  upon  the  Thames  in  rough  weather, 
yet  we  sometimes  fancied  they  might  facilitate 
our  escape,  if  our  scheme  of  sailing  in  the 
Venetian  vessel  should  fail  of  success.  They 
were  laden  with  merchandize  to  the  water's 
edge,  and  carried  such  enormous  sails,  that 
they  seemed  likely  to  upset  in  every  gust  of 
wind ;  yet  we  were  told,  their  owners  ventured 
in  these  vessels,  not  only  to  Constantinople,  but 


ODESSA.  387 

almost  to  every  port  of  the  Black  Sea.     It  must    CHAP. 
be  confessed,  we  did  not  anticipate  with  much  v     *•  •' 
pleasure  the  necessity  of  a  voyage  in  one  of  „ 

<f  »  Tourne- 

those   bean-cods ;    for,  although  Tournefort,   in  f°rtis  er- 

roneous 

refutation  of  all  history  and  tradition,  gave  a  Account  of 

favourable   account   of  the    navigation   of  the  sea. 

Black  Sea,  nothing  can  be  more  erroneous  than 

his  representation '.    The  darkness  which  covers 

it,    especially   during   winter,    owing   to   thick 

fogs  and  falling  snow,  is  so  great,  that  mariners 

are  unable  to  discern  objects  a  cable's  length 

from  their  vessels.    The  entrance  to  the  Canal 

of  Constantinople,  always   difficult,  becomes  in 

such  cases  impracticable.    There  is,  in  fact,  no 

part  of  the   globe   where  navigation  is  more 


(l)  The  account  is  very  characteristic  of  a  Frenchman,  sailing  on  a 
fine  day  from  the  Canal  of  Constantinople.  "  Quoiqu'en  aient  dit  les 
Anciens,  LA  MER  NOIRE  N'A  RIEN  DE  NOIR,  pour  ainsi  dire,  que  le  MOOT; 
Igs  vents  n'y  soujfflent  pas  avec  plus  defurie,  et  les  orages  n'y  sont  gueres 
plus  frequens  que  sur  les  autres  mers.  Ilfautpardonner  ces  exagerations 
aux  Poetes  andens,  et  sur  tout  au  chagrin  d'Ovide :  en  effet  le  sable  de 
la  Mer  Noire  est  de  meme  couleur  que  celui  de  la  Mer  Blanche,  et  scs  eaux 
en  sent  aussi  claires;  en  un  mot,  si  les  c6les  de  cctte  rner,  qui  passent  pour 
si  dangereuses,  paroisscnt  somlres  de  loin,  ce  sont  les  boisqui  les  couvrent, 
ou  le  grand  eloignement  qui  les  font  parottre  cornme  noirdtres.  />c  del  y 
fut  si  beau,  et  si  serein  pendant  tout  noire  voyage,  que  nous  ne  pumes  nous 
emptclier  de  donner  une  esp^ce  de  dementi  a  Valerius  Flaccus  fameux 
poete  Latin,  qui  a  dccrit  la  route  des  Argontmles,  lesquels  passoient  pour 
les  plus  celebres  voyageurs  de  I'antiquite,  mais  qui  ne  sont  cependunt 
QUE  DE  FORT  PETiTS  GARcoNS  en  comparaison  des  Vincent  le  Blanc,  Ta~ 
vernier,  H(c.  Ce  Poete  assure  que  le  del  de  la  Mer  Noire  est  toujours 
embro&ilM."  Vova^e  du  Levnnt,  Lett.  XVI.  torn.  III.  p.  1.  ed.  Lynn, 
J717. 

VOL.    II.  2  C 


388  O  D  E  S  S  A. 

CHAP,  dangerous'.  Shallows,  hitherto  unnoticed  in 
any  chart,  occur  frequently  when  vessels  are 
out  of  sight  of  land;  dreadful  storms  take  place 
so  suddenly,  and  with  such  fury,  that  every 
mast  is  carried  overboard  almost  as  soon  as  the 
first  symptom  of  a  change  of  weather  is  noticed. 
Perhaps  more  skilful  sailors  might  guard  against 
danger  from  the  winds :  it  has  more  than  once 
happened,  when  the  Russian  fleet  put  to  sea, 
that  the  ships  commanded  by  Admirals  Priestman 
and  Wilson  were  the  only  vessels  that  escaped 
being  dismasted :  yet  even  those  experienced 
officers  described  the  Black  Sea  as  being  some- 
times agitated  by  tempests  more  fearful  than 
any  thing  they  had  encountered  in  the  Ocean. 
Many  vessels  were  lost  during  the  year  when 


(l)  This  truth,  founded  en  the  experience  of  ages,  and  admitted  by 
the  ablest  writers  of  antiquity,  might  seem  sufficiently  well  established. 
But  modern  authors,  instigated  by  the  example  of  Toumefort,  are 
determined  to  set  aside  testimony  so  respectable.  That  a  very  conside- 
rable part  of  the  danger  encountered  in  navigating  the  Black  Sea  is 
owing  to  the  want  of  proper  charts  and  able  mariners,  cannot  be 
disputed ;  yet,  from  its  very  nature,  and  the  heights  around,  it  is 
necessarily  liable  to  dark  fogs  and  violent  squalls ;  consequently,  the 
proximity  of  a  lee  shore  and  shallows  cannot  be  destitute  of  peril.  Yet 
we  are  told,  "  It  is  a  notion  received  from  the  Turks,  that  the  Black 
Sea  is  dangerous.  To  them,  indeed,  it  is  truly  black ;  and  it  would 
even  be  so  to  British  sailors,  in  such  vessels  as  the  Turks  use,  and 
which,  are  peculiar  to  that  sea :  they  cannot  lie  to,  and  are  conse- 
quently obliged  to  run  before  the  wind,  and,  if  they  miss  a  port,  go 
on  shore.  It  is  not  more  stormy  than  other  seas."  Survey  of  the 
Turkish  Empire,  Fourth  edit.  Introd.  Chap.  Lorul.  1809. 


ODESSA.  389 

we  visited  Odessa,  by  the  storms  preceding  and  CHAP. 
following  the  Equinox.  The  hulk  of  a  vessel  ^— v — ' 
driven  on  shore  at  Varna  was  all  the  intelli- 
gence received  of  the  fate  of  a  merchant  ship 
that  sailed  out  of  Odessa  when  we  were  there : 
not  a  soul  on  board  escaped.  Another  was 
wrecked  attempting  to  enter  the  Canal  of 
Constantinople :  eight  sailors,  with  two  officers, 
^were  drowned ;  the  rest  of  the  crew  were  saved 
by  remaining  a  whole  day  upon  the  ship's  yards, 
until  the  storm  abated,  when  they  swam  to  the 
shore.  These  storms  were  so  great,  that  an 
alarm  prevailed  on  shore  for  the  safety  of  the 
houses :  during  one  day  and  night,  the  stoutest 
stone  walls  seemed  unequal  to  resist  the  violence 
of  the  gale.  The  vineyards  at  Sudak,  as  Professor 
Pallas  by  a  letter  informed  us,  and  along  the  south 
coast  of  the  Crimea,  were  destroyed;  houses  were 
unroofed ;  and  all  those  with  casements  had 
their  windows  forced  in  by  the  tempest. 

Odessa  will  ever  be  a  port  of  great  import- 
ance to  Russia,  while  she  is  prevented  from 
laying  her  hands  upon  the  Turkish  empire  • 
because,  from  its  proximity  to  the  Porte,  a 
constant  eye  is  kept  upon  the  operations  of  the 
Turks,  It  has  also  the  advantage  of  being  so 
rarely  obstructed  by  ice,  that  a  vessel  may 
generally  escape;  whereas,  in  other  ports  of 
2  c  2 


390  ODESSA. 

the  Black  Sea,    an   enemy  upon  the  ice  may 
attack  the  ships  as  well  as  the  works:    this 
happened  when  the  Russians  took  Oczakof.    The 
i-  extraordinary  degrees  of  temperature,  in  these 


latitudes,  are  altogether  unaccountable.  Captain 
mate.  Bergamini  informed  us,  that  his  ship  was  once 
detained  five  months  in  the  mouth  of  the  Danube, 
by  the  freezing  of  the  sea.  Ovid,  during  his 
residence  near  the  same  place,  had  witnessed  a 
smi^ar  event'-  Upon  the  subject  of  English 


in  the         commerce  and  navigation  in  the  Black  Sea,  we 

Slack  Sea. 

have  avoided  going  into  much  detail,  from  the 
consciousness  that  our  personal  observations 
were  of  limited  extent,  and  because  the  theme 
is  amply  discussed  in  some  interesting  remarks 
addressed  to  a  respectable  periodical  wrorks: 
these  remarks,  notwithstanding  their  unas- 
suming form,  bear  such  internal  evidence  of 
authenticity,  that  we  shall  adopt  them  as  au- 
thority, in  the  Appendix.  In  fact,  the  official 

(1)  The  description  possesses  admirable  force  and  beauty  : 

"  Vidimus  ingentem  glacie  consistere  pontum, 
Lubricaque  immotas  testa  premebat  aquas. 
Nee  vidisse  sat  est.     Durum  calcavimus  aequor  ; 
Undaque  non  udo  sub  pede  summa  fuit." 

Ovid.  lib.  in.   Trist.  El.-g.  X. 

Those  who  have  experienced  a  Russian  winter  will  also  know  how  to 
estimate  the  truth  and  elegance  of  the  following  lines  : 
"  Sappe  sonant  moti  glacie  pendente  capilli, 

Et  nitct  inducto  Candida  barba  gelu."         Rid. 

(2)  \aial  Oironicle,  vol.  XXI.  p.  2  1C. 


ODESSA.  391 

documents  therein  comprised  we  know  to  be  CHAP. 
derived  from  records  kept  in  the  Chancery  v  .».  -> 
Office  of  the  British  Legation  at  Constantinople; 
and  to  these  the  writer,  as  a  member  of  the 
Levant  Company,  could  of  course  command 
access.  We  may  venture  indeed  to  pledge 
ourselves  for  the  authenticity  of  the  papers  in 
question  ;  and  we  are  glad  to  be  instrumental 
in  bringing  under  the  public  eye  such  valuable 
materials  for  history,  in  a  way  more  calculated 
to  perpetuate  the  recollection  of  them,  than  the 
fugitive  manner  in  which  they  were  originally 
published*. 


The  fortress   of  Odessa  is   small,    but   kept 

*       Odessa. 

in  good  order:  it  has,  like  that  of  Cherson,  a 
double  fosse.  We  paid  one  visit  to  the  Com- 
mandant, a  genuine  Russian,  living  in  a  little 
hole,  among  bundles  of  official  writings,  sur- 
rounded by  an  atmosphere  powerfully  affecting 
our  olfactory  nerves.  In  answer  to  a  very  rude 
interrogation  concerning  our  business,  we  said, 
with  palpitating  hearts,  that  we  begged  to  have 
our  passports  signed.  After  keeping  us  in  a  state 
of  most  painful  suspense  for  about  half-an-hour, 
the  expected  rouble  being  paid,  and  the  hums 

and    haivs,    and   difficulties   of  office,   thereby 

_  -j_  _ 

* 

(3)  See  the  Appendix  to  this  Volunyji,  No.  U. 


392  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

done  away,  we  heard  the  cheerful  word, 
"  Carashol"  which  never  sounded  so  agreeably 
in  our  ears.  With  the  important  paper  close 
folded  and  concealed,  we  cautiously  withdrew 
from  the  inquisitive  observation  of  several  spies 
of  the  police,  who,  with  outstretched  necks 
and  eager  eyes,  seemed  aware  that  it  contained 
wherewithal  to  gratify  their  curiosity. 


On  the  morning  of  the  last  day  of  October,  at 
day  -break,  Captain  Bergamini,  of  the  Moderate, 
came  with  the  joyful  intelligence  that  all  was 
ready  for  his  departure;  and  desired  us  to 
hasten  on  board,  as  the  wind  was  favourable, 
and  he  wished  to  get  under  weigh  with  all 
possible  expedition.  The  delays  of  the  custom- 
house kept  the  vessel  in  port  until  ten  o'clock. 
We  embarked  a  little  before  nine.  At  ten  pre- 
cisely, we  began  to  heave  the  anchor  ;  but,  from 
the  foulness  of  the  harbour,  it  was  with  difficulty 
raised.  The  crew  of  the  custom-house  boat, 
who  had  left  us,  returned  for  another  dram  of 
brandy,  offering  at  the  same  time  their  assist- 
ance-  At  half-after-ten  the  vessel  was  in 
motion;  but  we  lay-  to  for  the  Captain's  nephew, 
who  commanded  another  merchant-ship,  called 
//  Piccolo  AronettOy  which  had  not  yet  cleared. 
Soon  after  eleven  she  came  along-side;  and 
with  hearts  elate,  although  still  beating  with 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  393 

anxiety,  through  dread  of  being  again  detained,    CHAP. 
we  bade  a  last  adieu  to  Russia;  steering  along  «    -T-   • 
the  coast  towards  Akerman,  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Dniester1:  this  we  passed  in  the  evening.     For 
the  rest  of  our  voyage,  the  extracts  from  the 
author's  Journal  will  be  accompanied  by  a  literal 


(0  Akcrman  and  Kilia,  in  Lower  Moldavia,  or  Bessarabia,  were  two 
celebrated  towns.  The  first  is  the  'O|/«  of  Herodotus,  called  by  the 
Romans  JULIA  ALBA,  and  by  the  Moldavians  of  the  present  day,  Czetate 
Alba,  or  the  WHITE  CITY.  Kilia,  in  the  Mouths  of  the  Danube,  was 
perhaps  the  antient  Atntervenai.  In  the  Histoire  de  la  Moldavia  et 
falachie,  (printed  at  Neuchatel  in  1781,)  whence  this  Note  is  derived, 
circumstances  are  mentioned  concerning  the  celebrity  of  Akerman,  as 
the  place  of  Ovid's  exile,  which  have  all  the  air  of  a  fable.  It  is 
impossible  to  examine  Ovid's  writings  without  being  convinced,  from 
his  own  language,  that  the  place  of  his  residence  was  Tomis,  whicb 
was  much  nearer  to  the  situation  of  Kilia;  yet,  says  the  author  of  the 
work  now  alluded  to,  speaking  oi  Alter  man,  "  It  is  famous  in  having 
been  the  exile  of  Ovid.  There  is  a  lake  still  called  by  the  peasants 
Lacul  Oi'idului,  Ovid's  Lake.  Ovid  left  Czetate  Alba,  and  retired  to  a 
village  three  leagues  distant,  of  which  the  ruins  are  still  visible. 
Near  the  cottage  in  which  he  lived,  there  is  a  small  spring  which  bears 
his  name,  as  well  as  the  lake  on  the  banks  of  which  he  used  to  walk. 
The  peasants  pretend  that  he  composed  poems  in  the  Moldavian 
language ;  but  none  have  ever  been  found.  They  have  still  various 
traditions  concerning  him."  Similar  absurdities  exist  about  his  tomb, 
which  they  pretend  to  shew  to  travellers  somewhere  near  Odessa,  It 
seems  that  those  who  would  thus  move  him  from  the  marshes  of  the 
Inter  to  the  Tyros,  or  Dniester,  have  never  read  these  lines  of 

the  poet : 

"  Quam  legis,  ex  ilia  tibi  venit  epistola  terra, 
Latus  ubi  acquoreis  additur  Ister  aquis." 

Lib.  v.  Trist.  Eleg.  VII. 

Nor  can  they  surely  ha%e  considered  the  force  of  these  words: 
— —  «'  Medio  defendimur/jrfro." 

Lib.  iii.  Eleg.  X. 


394  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

CI*£p.    translation,  in  the  Appendix ' ,   of  the  log-book 
of  the  Moderato ;  in  order  to  afford  as  faithful 
an  account  as  possible  of  our  navigation  in  the 
Sea. 


At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  next 
day,  we  were  called  upon  deck  by  the  Captain, 

to  see  the  Is!e  °f  Serpents>  antiently  LEUCE, 
lying  off  the  mouths  of  the  Danube,  celebrated 
in  history  for  the  tomb  and  temple  of  Achilles. 
It  is  so  small,  that,  as  we  passed,  we  could  view 
its  whole  extent :  this  continued  in  sight  until 
nine.  Judging  by  the  eye,  it  appeared  to  be 
near  a  mile  in  length,  and  less  than  half-a-mile 
in  breadth.  It  is  quite  bare,  being  covered  only 
with  a  little  grass,  and  very  low  herbage.  When 
carefully  examined  with  a  telescope,  there  did 
not  appear  to  be  the  smallest  remains  of 
antiquity.  The  author  made  a  sketch  of  it  from 
the  south-east.  On  the  south  side  are  cliffs, 
seeming  to  be  about  fifty  feet  high.  Many  absurd 
stories  of  Turkish  and  Russian  mariners  are 
founded  upon  a  notion  that  the  island  is  itself 
covered  with  serpents.  An  opportunity  rarely 
occurs  in  which  ships  can  remain,  in  order  to 
visit  it ;  and  if  this  were  to  happen,  not  a  man 
of  any  of  their  crews  would  venture  on  shore ; 
_ "  -  — , — 

(0  See  Appendix  to  this  Volume,  No.  HI. 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  395 

although  there  be  twenty  fathoms  of  water  CHAP. 
within  a  cable's  length  of  the  island,  and  any  < — /— ' 
vessel  may  sail  close  to  it.  The  Russians  relate, 
that  four  persons,  belonging  to  the  crew  of  a 
ship  wrecked  there,  no  sooner  landed  than 
they  encountered  a  worse  enemy  than  the  sea, 
and  were  all  devoured  by  serpents.  Ammianus  Accounts 
Marcellinus*  records  a  similar  superstition  as  Antient 
prevailing  in  his  time,  concerning  the  dangers 
of  the  place.  After  a  description  so  remarkable 
and  so  recent  as  that  of  Arrian,  who  wrote 
about  the  second  century,  there  is  great  reason 
to  believe  some  interesting  remains  of  antiquity 
might  be  here  discovered.  This  secluded  spot 
escaped  the  ravages  to  which  almost  every  other 
portion  of  classical  territory  has  been  exposed  ; 
neither  is  it  known  that  any  traveller  ever 
ventured  to  the  island.  Antiently  it  had 
various  appellations;  among  these,  the  most 
received  was  that  of  LEUCE,  or  '  The  IVhite 
Island."  It  was  so  called  in  consequence  of  the 
white  appearance  caused  by  the  swarm  of  sea- 
fowl,  covering  it  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
and  thereby  rendering  it  more  visible.  The 
author  has  seen  similar  sights  among  the 


(2)  Ammiari.  Marcel,  lih.xxii.  c.  $.—"  4iunt  enim  nan  sine  discrimint 
..tit  ilttc  qutnqutim  pfrnocturt." 


396  VOYAGE  FROiM  ODESSA, 

CHAP.  Hebrides ;  where  the  number  of  Solan  geese,  and 

A.. 

of  other  birds,  cause  the  rocks  and  islands  to 
appear  as  if  they  were  capped  with  snow.  All 
the  superstitions  respecting  LEUCE  seem  to 
have  had  their  origin  in  its  importance  as  a 
land-mark ;  the  coast  near  the  Mouths  of  the 
Danube  being  so  low,  that  the  mariners  are 
unable  to  discern  it,  even  when  close  in  with 
the  shore;  and  the  island  itself  being  often 
obscured  by  the  hazy  atmosphere  of  the  Black 
Sea,  renders  navigation  dangerous,  excepting 
when  it  is  made  conspicuous  by  its  white  birds. 
Owing  to  this  circumstance,  Pindar  called  it 
Njj<rov  <£>u,&vvGe,v,  '  The  Conspicuous  Island:'  his 
commentators  add,  that  it  was  "  called  The 
White  Shore  in  the  Euxine ;  where  many  white 
birds  appearing,  shew  the  island  to  those  who 
sail  that  way."  And  again,  "It  is  called 
LEUCE  on  account  of  the  number  of  white 
birds"  which  make  their  nests  there."  Euripides3 
describes  it  as  the  White  Shore  of  Achilles,  and 
calls  it  I1OAYOPNI0ON,  from  the  number  of  its 
birds.  Scymnus  Chius 4  also  affirms  that  it  was 
sacred  to  Achilles,  and  remarkable  for  its  white 


(1)  Pindar,  Nem.  A. 

(2)  'Eptftiiol,  Pelicans. 

(3)  Iphigen.  in  Taur. 

(•l)  Scymnus  Chius.     Frag.    1.  45. 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY. 

birds.  Arrian*  says  it  had  the  name  of  LEUCE, 
or  '  The  Wldte  Island!  A  part  of  its  history, 
considered  by  Scymnus  Chius  as  being  the  most 
marvellous,  was,  that  the  main  land  could  not 
thence  be  discerned,  although  distant  only  forty 
stadia,  or  five  miles.  This  is  literally  true ; 
the  land  is  invisible  to  a  person  much 
nearer  the  coast,  as  will  appear  by  the  sub- 
sequent description,  made  from  notes  written 
while  we  were  lying  off  the  mouth  of  the 
Danube.  Arrian  thus  introduces  his  very 
interesting  description :  "  Sailing  out  of  that 
mouth  of  the  Ister  which  is  called  YIAON, 
with  the  wind  AIIAPKTIAS  ,  the  Island  of  Achilles 
appears,  by  some  called  the  Course  of  Achilles, 
and  by  others,  from  its  colour,  the  White 
Island.  It  is  related  that  Thetis  gave  this  isle 
to  Achilles,  and  that  he  still  inhabits  it:  his 
temple  and  statue,  both  of  very  antient  work- 
manship, are  there  seen.  No  human  being 
dwells  there ;  only  a  few  goats,  which  mariners 
convey  as  votive  offerings.  Other  offerings, 
or  sacred  gifts,  are  suspended  in  honour  of 


(5)  Arrian.  Peripl.  Pont.  Eux   p.  21.    Ed  Huds.  Ox.  1698. 

(6)  Aparctias   was  a  name  given  by  the  Greeks  to  the  North  Wind, 
as  appears  by  this  passage  from  Pliny  :  "  From  the  North  blows  the 
wind  SEPTENTHIO;  and  between  that,  and  the  rising  of  the  solstitial 
sun,  AQUILO:    these  are   respectively  named  (by  the  Creeks)  Aparctias 
and  Boreas."    Plin.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  ii. 


398  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

CHAP.  Achilles;  such  as  vases,  rings,  and  costly  stones. 
Inscriptions  are  also  read  there,  in  the  Greek 
and  Latin  language,  in  different  metres,  in 
honour  of  Achilles  and  Patrodus ;  for  Patroclus 
is  there  worshipped  as  well  as  Achilles.  A 
number  also  of  aquatic  birds  are  seen ;  such  as 
the  lams,  the  diver,  and  the  sea-quail.  These 
birds  alone  have  the  care  of  the  temple.  Every 
morning  they  repair  to  the  sea,  wet  their 
wings,  and  sprinkle  the  temple ;  afterwards 
sweeping  with  their  plumage  its  sacred  pave- 
ment." A  further  account  of  the  superstitions 
respecting  the  island  is  then  added  by  the 
author,  who  relates,  that  Achilles  and  Patroclus 
appear  in  dreams  to  those  who  approach  it, 
and  tell  them  where  to  land ;  "  all  of  which," 
says  Arrian,  "  appears  to  me  to  be  very  worthy 
of  credit."  Many  other  authors,  although  of 
less  note,  contribute  by  their  descriptions 
to  the  celebrity  of  this  remarkable  island. 
Philostratus l  affords  its  dimensions,  stating  that 
it  is  thirty  stadia,  or  three  miles  and  three 
quarters,  in  length ;  and  four  stadia,  or  half 
a  mile,  wide :  this  account  corresponds  with 
its  appearance,  from  the  distance  at  which  it 
was  visible  to  us.  It  is  further  mentioned 
by  Pausanias*,  and  by  Ammianus  Marcellinus*. 

(1)  Philostratus  in  Herokis.  (2)  Pausan.  in  Laeonicis. 

(3)  Ammkin-  MurccU.  bil.  xxii.  c.  8. 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  399 

According  to  antient  Poets,  the  souls  of  departed   CHAP. 
Heroes  enjoyed   there    perpetual   repose  and  * — ^— -> 
felicity4.     Festus  Avienus\  although  erroneous 
in  his  account  of  its  situation,  alludes  to  this 
part  of  its  history  in  the  following  lines : 

"  Ora  Borystheuii  qui  fluminis  in  mare  vergunt, 
E  re^ione  procul  spectabit  cuhnina  Leuces  ; 
Leuce  cana  jugum,  Leuce  sedes  animarum." 

In  the  number  of  antient  writers  by  whom  this 
island  is  mentioned,  several,  as  might  be 
expected,  had  confused  and  even  false  notions 
of  its  position  in  the  Euxine.  Some  of  them 
describe  it  as  being  opposite  either  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Borysthenes  or  to  that  of  the 
Tyros  i  others,  as  lying  between  those  rivers. 
A  few  have  confounded  it  with  the  neck  of 
land  lying  between  the  mouth  of  the  Borys- 
thenes and  the  Sinus  Carcinites,  formerly  called 
the  Dromus  Achillis,  and  now  Kilburnu.  Arrian 
is  the  only  author  whose  text  may  be  recon- 
ciled with  the  true  situation  of  the  island  : 
and  next  to  his  description,  in  point  of  accu- 
racy, is  that  given  by  his  predecessor,  Strabo6. 
Its  modern  names  are,  Ran  Adase,  and 


(4)  The  Turks  also  believe  tlie  souls  of  men,  after  death,  reside  in  (.he 
bodies  of  birds. 

(5}  Fetttus  Auienus,       Orbis  Description*. 
(6)  Strab.  lib.viii. 


400  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

CHAP.  Phidonisi*.  It  is  placed  wrong  in  all  the  charts:  in 
some  it  is  altogether  omitted ;  indeed  its  exist- 
ence has  been  doubted  by  modern  geographers. 
The  best,  and  almost  the  only  charts  of  the 
Black  Sea,  are  those  printed  in  Paris;  yet 
even  in  these  the  Isle  of  Serpents  lies  15  minutes, 
or  geographical  miles,  too  far  towards  the 
north.  A  greater  error  prevails  respecting 
the  port  of  Odessa,  calculated  to  lead  ships  into 
danger :  this  is  placed  at  least  27  out  of 
its  position  towards  the  north.  The  great 
obscurity  which  often  prevails  over  the  Black 
Sea,  during  winter,  renders  it  a  fortunate  event 
to  make  the  Lie  of  Serpents;  not  only,  as  was 
said  before,  from  the  impossibility  of  descrying 
the  coast  near  the  Danube,  but  because  ships 
are  liable  to  run  upon  it  during  the  night.  The 
principal  cause  of  danger,  however,  must  be 


(l)  It  is  laid  down  in  the  manuscript  chart  of  Freducius  of  Ancona, 
preserved  in  the  Library  of  fPblfenbutel,  near  Vienna,  under  the  name 
of  Ftdonixi,  and  delineated  as  having  a  port.  This  chart  bears  date 
A.  D.  1497-  Count  John  Potocki,  in  its  illustration,  states  that  Fido- 
Nixi  signifies  Isle  de  la  Fay.  The  Count  sailed  from  the  Dnieper  for 
Constantinople  in  1784,  and  gives  this  account  of  the  island,  which  he 
passed  during  the  voyage:  "J'aifait  moi-meme  ce  trajet  en  Vanntc 
1734,  et  n'ai  pas  manque  de  demander  s'il  ne  se  trouvoit  pas  dans  Ftsle 
des  restes  de  temple  ou  de  quelque  autre  edifice.  L'on  me  repondmt  alora, 
qu'il  etoit  difficile  d'y  aborder ;  tant  parceque  la  cote  ^toit  dangereuse  qua 
parceque  In  terre  y  etoit  couverte  de  serpents  renimeiur."  M^moire  sur 
un  Nouveau  Peryple  du  Pont  Eit.n'n,  par  le  Cointc  Jean  Potocki. 
Vien.  1796. 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  401 

attributed  to  the  ignorance  of  pilots,  and-to 
a  deficiency  of  proper  charts.  We  had  on 
board  two  excellent  sextants,  and  observations 
were  daily  made  at  noon :  by  these  we  found 
our  latitude  to  be  44°.  44';  the  ship  lying  at  the 
time  five  leagues  and  a  half  to  the  south  of 
the  island.  A  third  sextant,  on  board  the  vessel 
commanded  by  the  Captain's  nephew,  was  also 
employed  by  him :  this  enabled  us,  by  compa- 
rison, to  detect  with  greater  certainty  the  errors 
in  the  French  charts. 

Having  passed  the  Me  of  Serpents,  we  fell  in 
with  the  current  from  the  Danube.  So  great  is 
the  extent  over  which  its  waters  diffuse  them- 
selves, owing  to  the  shallowness  of  this  part 
of  the  Euxine,  that,  although  the  discharge  be 
scarcely  adequate  to  our  notions  of  so  con- 
siderable a  river,  the  effect  is  visible  for  several 
leagues,  in  a  white  colour  thereby  communicated 
to  the  sea.  Dipping  buckets  in  the  waves,  we 
observed  that  the  water  was  almost  sweet,  at 
the  distance  of  three  leagues  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  within  one  league  it  was  fit 
for  use  on  board.  The  shore  is  flat  all  the  wav 

"     oftht 

from  Odessa  to  the  Danube;  and  it  is  so  low  near  z>««* 
to  the  river's  mouth,  that  no  other  object  appears, 
to  those  who  approach  the  shore,  than  tall  reeds 
rising  out  of  the  water,  or  the  masts  of  vessels 


402 

CHAP. 
X. 


White 
Dolphins. 


Observa- 
tions on 
board  the 
Moderate 


VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

lying  in  the  river.  A  singular  appearance  may 
be  observed  in  the  Mouths  of  the  Danube,  which 
we  are  unable  to  explain.  The  Dolphins1 
everywhere  else  exhibiting  a  dark  colour,  are 
here  perfectly  white.  This  may  wear  so  much  the 
air  of  a  fable,  that,  in  proof  of  the  fact,  we  may 
state  a  practice  among  Greek  mariners,  during 
mists  and  dark  wea  her,  of  ascertaining  their 
position  by  such  phenomena.  As  soon  as  they 
descry  the  white  dolphins,  they  become  assured 
that  they  are  within  the  current  of  the  Danube, 
although  in  thirty  fathoms  water,  and  many 
leagues  distant  from  its  mouth.  It  has  been 
already  stated,  that  the  water  is  itself  of  a  ivhite 
colour;  and  probably  from  this  circumstance 
arises  the  supposed  colour  of  the  dolphin 9. 

After  passing  the  Mouths  of  the  Danube,  but 
still  being  conveyed  by  its  current,  we  observed 
four  mountains,  with  such  regular  conical  forms, 
and  so  singular  as  to  their  situation,  in  a  horizon 
otherwise  perfectly  flat,  that  we  at  first  supposed 
them  to  be  immense  tumuli.  The  Captain 

(1)  Dolphin  is  the  name  given  to  this  fish,  in  these  seas  ;  and  it  is  the 
Delphimif  of  Pliny ;    perhaps  nothing  more  than  our  porpoise.     It  is 
seen  sporting  in  great  abundance,   and   generally  proceeding1  in  pairs, 
through  the  Straits  ofTaman  and  of  Constantinople. 

(2)  Th«  notion  of  white  dolpkins  in  this  part  of  the  Black  Sea  seems 
connected  with  the   notions  entertained  by  the  Antients  of  the  whitc- 
netf  of  the  Island  ef  Achilles,  aud  of  the  birds  there  seeu. 


TO  1NEADA  IN  TURKEY.  403 

however  assured  us,  that  these  mountains  were  at    CHAP. 

_  .A. 

least  twenty- three  leagues  distant,  in  Wallachia;  *  »•  > 
our  situation  being  then  about  three  leagues 
from  the  shore.  Soon  after,  another  mountain 
appeared  in  view ;  making  the  old  groupe  to 
consist  of  five.  Other  elevations  of  less  magni- 
tude were  afterwards  visible ;  but  the  coast  is 
generally  low  and  flat. 

November  2. — Our  observation,  by  sextant 
this  day,  proved  our  latitude  to  be  44°.  25';  the 
ship's  distance  from  the  Mouths  of  the  Danube 
being,  at  the  time  of  the  observation,  five  leagues 
and  a  half.  The  water  even  here  tasted  very 
little  brackish.  After  heaving  the  lead,  we  found 
a  depth  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  English  feet. 
We  had  calm  weather  during  this  and  the 
preceding  day. 

November  3. — The  atmosphere  was  somewhat 
overcast.  We  discovered  the  coast  indis- 
tinctly from  the  mast  head;  being  then  in  thirty 
fathoms  water.  Our  latitude  at  noon  was 
43°.  30'. 

November  4.— The  atmosphere  was  this  day 
turbid.  We  had  but  little  wind  from  the  east, 
but  a  great  sea  rose.  From  mid-day,  until 
five  o'clock  p.  M.  our  course  was  s.  s.  w. ;  at  this 

VOL.  n.  2  D 


404  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

CHAP,  hour  we  descried  Cape  Kelegry,  at  the  distance 
of  somewhat  less  than  seven  leagues.  We  were 
unable  to  make  any  observation  of  the  ship's 
latitude.  Cloudy  weather,  and  a  heavy  sea. 

Novembers. — The  weather  was  still  hazy:  a 
light  wind  prevailed  from  the  east,  and  a  tur- 
bulent sea.  Our  crew  observed,  durins:  the 

'  O 

day,  that  the  vessel  leaked,  and  made  about  an 
inch  of  water  in  four  hours,  owing  to  the  heavy 
sea.  At  six  in  the  evening  there  fell  a  calm, 
when  we  discovered  the  coast ;  and  at  day- 
break the  next  morning  (Nov.  6tK)  observed 
distinctly  the  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  Canal  of 
Constantinople,  distant  about  six  leagues  and  a 
half.  All  this  morning  we  were  animated  by 
the  Captain  with  such  hopes  of  entering  the 
Canal,  that  we  expected  to  breakfast  in  Constan- 
tinople. During  our  short  voyage  from  Odessa, 
the  Captain,  by  slackening  sail  continually  for 
his  nephew's  ship,  which  proved  but  an  indif- 
ferent sailor,  had  regularly  lost  one  league  in 
three ;  and  it  happened,  most  unfortunately,  that 
we  had  to  wait  again,  at  the  very  mouth  of  the 
Canal:  by  this  delay  we  not  only  lost  the 
opportunity  of  getting  in  at  that  time,  but 
nearly  sacrificed  the  crews  and  cargoes  of  both 
ships.  The  copy  from  our  log-book,  which  is 
given  in  the  Appendix*  will  best  tell  what  our 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  405 

situation  was,  in  the  dreadful  storm  that  suc- 
ceeded. Landsmen  are  very  apt  to  magnify  the 
dangers  they  encounter  by  sea;  but  it  will 
appear  that  in  this  instance  there  was  little  room 
for  amplification.  At  mid-day  we  stood  opposite 
to  the  Light-house  of  the  Canal ;  this  bore  only 
ten  miles  distant,  towards  the  west:  a  calm, 
accompanied  by  a  heavy  sea,  prevented  our 
approach.  During  the  evening,  the  crew  were 
employed  working  the  pumps. 

November  7- — At  sun-rise,  the  wind  had  Dreadful 
gained  considerable  force,  and  the  sails  were 
reefed.  We  still  discerned  the  mouth  of  the 
Canal,  and  even  the  light-house  on  the  Asiatic 
side.  About  ten,  we  took  in  all  the  reefs  in 
the  main-topsail ;  and  at  noon,  the  wind  still 
increasing,  struck  the  topsail-yards.  A  tre- 
mendous sea  rolled  over  the  deck,  from  one  side 
to  the  other ;  and  the  water  in  the  hold  increasing 
fast,  all  hands  were  called  to  the  pumps,  which 
were  kept  working  continually.  At  four  in  the 
afternoon  we  had  our  last  view  of  the  Canal, 
distant  about  eight  leagues.  \Vithin  half  an 
hour  ^afterwards,  the  Black  Sea  afforded  a  spec- 
tacle which  can  never  be  forgotten  by  those  who 
saw  it.  We  were  steering  with  a  hard  gale  and 
heavy  sea  from  s.  s.  w.  when  there  appeared,  in 
the  opposite  horizon,  clouds,  in  the  form  of 
2  D  2 


406  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

CHAP,  pillars,  dark  and  terrible;  these  were  whirled 
upon  their  bases,  and  advanced  with  astonishing 
rapidity  along  the  horizon,  on  either  side,  against 
the  wind.  Our  Captain,  who  had  retired  for  a 
short  repose,  being  called  by  the  boatswain  to 
notice  this  appearance,  instantly  ordered  all 
the  yards  to  be  struck ;  and  we  remained  under 
bare  poles,  while  an  awful  silence  prevailed  on 
board.  It  was  not  of  long  duration.  Suddenly 
such  a  hurricane  came  upon  the  vessel  from  the 
north-west,  that  we  thought  she  would  have 
foundered,  in  the  mere  attempt  to  take  it,  as 
the  mode  of  expression  is,  in  poop1.  During 
one  entire  hour,  the  ship  was  suffered  to  drive 
before  the  storm,  encountering  all  the  fury  of 
the  wind  and  sea,  without  being  able  to  bear 
away  from  the  land.  At  every  plunge  our 
vessel  made,  her  bowsprit  and  forecastle  were 
carried  under  water :  a  few  sailors  at  the  helm 
were  lashed  to  the  steerage*  but  almost  every 
thing  upon  the  deck  was  washed  away.  If  the 
tempest  had  continued  half  an  hour  longer,  no 
one  of  the  crew  would  have  survived,  to  tell  the 
story.  About  five  o'clock  its  force  had  some- 
what abated ;  and  the  Captain  laid  the  vessel, 


(l)  Taking  a  gale  inpdpa,  is  done  by  opposing  the  ship's  stern  to 
the  windy  and  letting  her  drive  before  it,  under  bare  poles. 


TO  INEADA  IN  TURKEY.  407 

as  he  termed  it,  a  la  capa*,  hoisting  the  jib  and  CHAP- 
a  portion  of  the  mainsail,  to  get  clear  of  the  *-  T-  ' 
shore.  Still  the  vehement  agitation  of  the  waves 
continued,  the  deck  being  continually  under 
water.  At  six  o'clock  a  tempest  began  again 
from  the  s.  w. ;  so  that,  owing  to  a  swell  from 
two  opposite  points  of  the  compass  at  the  same 
time,  such  a  sea  was  raised  as  none  of  our 
crew  had  ever  beheld  before.  All  this  time 
the  leak  was  gaining  fast  upon  us,  and  we 
passed  a  fearful  night.  Two  Turkish,  vessels 
were  seen  towards  sun-set,  under  the  lee  of 
the  Aronetto;  but  both  had  foundered  before 
morning,  and  every  soul  on  board  had  perished. 
To  increase  the  horror  of  our  situation,  scarcely 
any  one  of  the  crew  could  be  made  to  do  his 
duty:  the  sailors  crept  to  their  hammocks, 
leaving  the  ship  at  the  mercy  of  the  sea. 

The  next  day,,  (Saturday,  November  Sfk,')  at 
noon,  we  made  the  high  land  to  the  south  of 
the  Canal ;  bearing  s.  w.,  and  being  distant 
about  ten  leagues.  The  tempest  continued  as 
before,  during  the  whole  of  the  day  and  of  the 
following  night ;  but  we  were  able  to  work  the 
pumps,  and  thereby  gained  considerably  upon 


(2)  "A  la  capa  "  is  placing  the  ship  in  a  diagonal  position,  with  her 
rudder  to  leeward,  so  that  her  head  is  kept  to  the  sea,  but  the  vessel 
lies  stationary  upon  the  water. 


408  VOYAGE  FROM  ODESSA, 

the  leak.     Three  hours  after  midnight,  on  the 
morning  of  November  Qth,  we  made  the  coast  of 
Anatolia,  near  to  the  mouth  of  the  Canal.     At 
noon,  this  day,  a  calm  succeeded,  which  was, 
if  possible,  more  terrible  than  the  hurricane  we 
had  experienced ;  the  ship  continuing  to  labour 
incessantly,  with  her   deck   continually  under 
water,  the  sails  and  rigging  flying  to  pieces,  and 
all  things  being  at  the  mercy  of  the  waves. 
The  whole  of  Sunday,  November  Qth,  was  passed 
in  the  same  manner,  until  about  six  o'clock  p.  M., 
when  a  light  wind  springing  up  from  the  south, 
we  were  enabled  to  put  the  ship's  prow  to  the 
westward ;    and   about  eight  on  the  following 
morning,   November  10th,   we    again   made  the 
land  at  the  mouth  of  the  Canal.     The  whole  of 
this  day  we  continued  steering,  \vith  a  heavy 
sea,  towards  the  s.  s.w.;    but   from    midnight 
until  seven  A.  M.  November  1  \th,  a  stormy  wind 
prevailing  from  the  s.  w.,  we  kept  the   ship's 
head  w.  and  by  N.,  when  we  discovered  the 
coast  on  the  European  side,  and  a  mountain, 
which  the   sailors  called  Gab  Ham,  to  the  x.  w. 
of  the   harbour   of  Ineada    in   TURKEY.     This 
place  is  the  THTXIAS  of  the  Antients,  a  port 
frequented  by  the  Argonauts1.     Towards  noon, 


(1)  See  StffpJiunus,  and  Luc.  Holstenlus  upon  Stephanus.     It  should, 
perhaps,  be  written  Tineada.    See  D'dnville,  p.  244. 


TO   INEADA   IN  TURKEY.  4()(> 

the  weather,  fortunately  for  us,  became  more  CHAP. 
calm;  as  we  discovered  that  the  ship's  cargo,  « — ^— ' 
which  was  of  corn,  had  shifted ;  the  pumps  be- 
coming choked  with  her  lading,  and  the  vessel  at 
the  same  time  preponderating  towards  her  star- 
board side.  We  therefore  opened  all  her  larboard 
port-holes,  and  moved  as  much  of  her  cargo  as 
possible ;  but  finding  it  impossible  to  right  her, 
and  being  to  windward  of  the  harbour  of  Ineada, 
we  put  the  ship's  head  to  the  west,  and,  to  our 
great  joy,  at  four  o'clock  p.  M.  came  to  an  anchor 
within  the  port,  in  six  fathoms  water. 

The  harbour  of  Ineada  lies  in  41°.  52'  of  north  Harbour  of 

Iiicadti. 

latitude2.  A  few  scattered  houses  upon  its 
shore  carry  on  a  small  trade,  in  the  occasional 
supply  of  coffee,  tobacco,  dried  beef,  cheese, 
curd,  fruit,  and  fresh  water,  to  Turkish  mari- 
ners, and  other  navigators  of  the  Black  Sea. 
Charcoal  is  also  there  made  for  exportation: 
several  fabrics,  busy  in  its  preparation,  were 
seen  smoking  near  the  beach,  and  upon  the 
hills  above,  when  we  arrived.  The  principal 
part  of  it  is  sent  to  Constantinople,  where  it  is 
almost  the  only  article  of  fuel.  Turkish  boats 
were  continually  lading  with  it,  while  we 
remained.  There  is  no  village,  nor  any  in- 
habited spot,  within  three  hours'  distance  of 

(2)  See  the  Vignette  to  the  next  Chapter. 


410  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA, 

CHAP,    this   port'.     The  interior  of  the  country  was 
described  as  being  in  a  very  dangerous  state, 
especially    the    road    leading    to    Adrianople ; 
owing,  not  altogether  to  the  adherents  of  the 
rebel  chief,  Pasvan  Oglou,  but  to  the  number 
of  Turkish,  troops  passing  under  various  pre- 
tences, and  to  the  banditti  which  more  or  less 
always  infest  this  part  of  the  country.    Vessels 
frequenting  this  harbour,  generally  prefef  the 
northern   side    of   it;    where   they  find   good 
anchorage,    among    gravel  mixed  with   black 
sand2.     It  is  only  exposed  to  winds  from  the 
east,  and  south-east;  and  is  sufficiently  spacious 
to   contain   a  fleet.     Like  the  port  of  Odessa, 
however,  it  rather  merits  the  appellation  of  a 
road   for   shipping,  than   of  a  harbour;    as   a 
heavy  sea  enters,  when  those  winds  blow  to 
which  it  lies  open.     At  the  time  of  our  arrival, 
there  was  hardly  a  single  boat  in  the  port :  but, 
before  we  left  it,  we  noticed  five  large  merchant 
ships,  besides  upwards  of  thirty  smaller  Turkish 
vessels,  all  riding  at  anchor.    The  latter  were 
stationed  close  to  the  shore  on  the  north  side  : 


(1)  Distances  in  Turkey,  and  almost  all  over  the-Ecrrt,  are  measured 
by  time;  that  is  to  say,  by  the  number  of  hours  usually  employed  by 
a  caravan  upon  its  march;  and  these  are  estimated  according  to  the 
pace  of  a  camel,  which  generally  proceeds  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour. 

<2)  See  the  Vignette  to  the  next  Chapter. 


IN    TURKEY.  411 

here  there  were  two  coffee-houses ;  which,  in  a    CHAP. 

x. 
Turkish  harbour,  answer  to  the  brandy-shops,  v    ..y-    • 

or  ale-houses,  frequented  by  English  sailors  in 
their  own  ports  ;  coffee  being  the  substitute  for 
spirits  or  beer.  In  these  coffee-houses  may  be 
seen  groupes  of  Turkish  mariners,  each  party 
being  squatted  in  a  circle  around  a  pan  of 
burning  charcoal,  smoking,  sipping  coffee, 
chewing  opium,  or  eating  a  sort  of  sweetmeat, 
in  shape  like  a  sausage,  made  of  walnuts  or 
almonds,  strung  upon  a  piece  of  twine,  and 
dipped  in  the  inspissated  syrup  of  new  wine, 
which  has  been  boiled  until  it  has  acquired  the 
consistence  of  a  stiff  jelly,  and  bends  in  the 
hand  like  a  piece  of  the  Indian-rubber.  The 
windows  of  these  coffee-houses  are  like  those 
of  a  common  English  jail,  being  grated,  and 
without  any  glass  casement ;  and,  as  the  inha- 
bitants use  no  other  stove  to  heat  their  chambers 
than  the  little  brasiers  before  mentioned,  it  is 
probable  that  the  climate  is  never  rigorous. 

When  we  landed,  we  found  the  earth,  at  this  Plan*, 
advanced  season  of  the  year,  still  covered  with 
flowers,  many  of  which  were  unknown  to  us. 
We  collected  five  new  species  among  the  shrubs 
upon  the  northern  side  of  the  harbour,  towards 
the  point  of  the  promontory;  a  new  species  of 
Senecio,  of  Figwort,  of  Convolvulus,  of  Ruscus,  and 


412  HARBOUR  OF   INEADA, 

of  Rulus.  A  particular  description  of  all  of 
them  is  subjoined  in  a  Note ;  together  with  the 
list  of  others,  whether  common  or  rare,  that 
were  here  added  to  our  herbary '.  It  is 


( 1)  I.  A  fine  species  of  SENECIO,  hitherto  nndescribed,  with  the  general 
habit  of  an  Aster,  excepting  the  foliage ;  the  flowers  solitary, 
about  an  inch  broad,  in  long  scaly  peduncles  ;  the  leaves  un- 
equally pinnatified,  with  the  terminal  lobe  lanceolate.  We  have 
called  it  SENECIO  FLEXUOSA.  Senecio  corollas  radiis  plurimis, 
patentibus,  majusculis ;  squamis  catycinis  adpressis ;  foliis  lyrato- 
pinnatiftdis  laciniis  integerrimis  glabriusculis,  planis ;  caulilus 
striatis  pilosis ;  pedunculis  elongates,  multilracteatis,  jlexuosis, 
unifloris. 

II.  A  new  species  of  FIGWORT,  having  much  of  the  general  habit  of 
Scrophularia  appendiculata  ',  but  differing,  by  the  exhibition  of 
leaves  sharply  toothed  at  the  base,  finely  ciliated,  and  perforated 
with  innumerable  transparent  spots  ;  being  also  without  appen- 
dages ;  the  peduncles  and  bracts,  viscous  and  downy ;  and  the 
flowers  also  shorter  and  broader  than  in  the  species  mentioned. 
We  have  called  it  SCROPHULARIA  GLANDULIFERA.  Scrophularia 
racemo  terminali  composite  ;  foliis  subcordato-ovatis,  lato-dentatis, 
minute  punctatis,  basi  inec quahbus ;  petiolis  pilis  glanduiiferis  pu- 
bescendbits. 

III.  A  new  shrubby  species  of  CONVOLVULUS,  about  two  feet  in  height; 
the  branches   hairy  and  spreading,   and,   for  the  greater  part  of 
their  length,  without  leaves ;   the  leaves  about  an  inch  long ;  the 
calyx  hairy,   about  a  third  part  the  length  of  the  corolla.     This 
species  most  resembles  the  Convolvulus  siijfruiicosus  of  Professor 
Desfontain.es,  but  differs   in  having  the  flowers  not  placed  upon 
long  peduncles  with  linear  opposite  bracts,  but  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches,  and  the  corolla  hairy.     AVe  have  called  it  CONVOLVULUS 
PATENS.       Convolvulus    erevtus,   suffruticosus ;   foliis  inferioribus, 
subspatulatis,   superioribus   lanceolatis,  utrinque  hirsutist  elongatis, 
inermibus,  unifloris  ;    corolld  extus  hirsuld. 

IV.  An  elegant  new  species  of  Ruse  us,  about  a  foot  in   height,  the 
branches  densely  crowded  into  a  little  oval  bush  ;  the  leaves,  in- 
cluding the  thorn  at  their  point,  from  about  half  an  inch  to  three 
quarters  in  length  ;  each  having  from  eleven  to  thirteen  strong 

nerves 


IN    TURKEY.  4i; 

interesting  to  notice  circumstances  of  locality,    CHAP. 
even  with  reference  to  the   most  vulgar  plants.  L    *" 
As  it  is   necessary  to  give  names  to  the  new- 
discovered  species,  the  author  will,  in  a  single 


nerves  on  both  sides,  giving  them  a  singular  ribbed  appearance. 
We  have  called  it  Ruscus  DUMOSCS.  Ruscus  pumilus,  ramis  con- 
fertis,  foliia  ovutis,  mucronato-pungentilus,  utrinque  valide  nervoru, 
suprafloriferis  nudis, 

V.  The  RUBUS  CRIPPSII  mentioned  in  the  Text.  This  curious  plant 
has  leaves  ternate,  inversely  ovate,  and  almost  circular.  Their 
superior  surface  is  hairy  and  of  a  dark  green  colour  ;  but  their  in- 
ferior, white  and  cottony.  The  flowers  appear  in  very  large 
bunches  upon  cottony  foot-stalks,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  stem 
is  also  a  little  cjttony.  Rubus  fruticosus,  foliis  crassis,  ternatis, 
lato-obovntis  aculis,  duplicato  dentatts ;  supra  hirsutis ;  subtus 
albido-tomentosis ;  aculeis  recurvis  ;  paniculis  terminalibus,  patulit. 

The  other  plants  collected   in  this  very  interesting  botanical  harbour 
were  as  follow : 

Scarlet  Oak Quercus  cocctfera.     Linn, 

Showy  Autumnal  Crocus      .     .  Crocus  speciosus.     Mberstein.* 

Common  Fluellin Antirrhinum  Elatine.    Linn. 

Humble  Vervain     .     .     .     .     .  Verbena  nudfflnra.     Linn. 

Common  Pimpernel     ....  Anagallis  arvensis.     Linn. 

Woolly-spiked  Beard-grass    .     .  Andropogon  Ischcemum.     Linn. 

Upright  Cynanchum    ....  Cynanchum  erectum.    Linn . 

Locust-grass Andropogon  Gryllus.     Linn. 

Common  Spleenwort    ....  Asplenium  Ceterach.     Linn. 

Aleppo  Corn        Holcus  Halepensii.     Linn. 

Common  Nightshade    ....  Solanum  nigrum.    Linn. 

Wild  Sii^e Salvia  Sylvestris.     Linn. 

Dyers'  Chamomile      ....  Anthemis  tinctoria.     Linn. 

Solid-rooted  Fumitory       .     .     .  Fumaria  solida.     Smith. 

Thorny  Catch- Fly Silene  spinescens.     Sibthorp. 

Calamint  Thyme Thymut  Calamintha.     Smith. 

Transylvania  Scabious       .     .    .  Scabioia  Transylvania.     Linn. 

•  This  species  is  very  distinct  from  the  nudijlorus  of  Dr.  Sniitk. 


414  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA, 

instance,  deviate  from  his  usual  method  of 
affixing  characteristic  appellations,  and  here 
endeavour  to  commemorate  the  botanical  re- 
searches of  his  friend  and  companion,  by  deno- 
minating the  last-mentioned  of  the  five,  RVBVS 
CRIPPSII.  When  the  first  edition  of  this  Part 
of  his  Travels  was  prepared  for  the  press,  a 
principal  part  of  his  herbary  had  been  mislaid, 
and  the  nature  of  the  new-discovered  species 
from  Ineada  had  not  been  accurately  ascer- 
tained. If  he  had  visited  this  part  of  Turkey 
at  an  earlier  season  of  the  year,  it  is  probable 
that  other  non-descript  species  would  have  been 
observed.  Wild  figs  appeared  among  the  rocks. 
We  collected  the  seeds  of  several  other  plants. 
The  trees  had  not  yet  cast  their  leaves ;  and  we 
were  surprised  to  find  the  heat  of  the  sun, 
towards  the  middle  of  November,  too  great  to 
render  walking  a  pleasing  exercise.  We  landed 
on  the  evening  of  our  arrival :  and,  as  first  im- 
pressions are  usually  the  most  vivid  in  visiting 
new  scenes,  it  may  be  expedient  to  notice  even 
the  trivial  events  that  took  place  upon  this 
occasion. 


Appear-          It  was  nearly  night.     A  number  of  Turkish 
Turks.       sailors,  black  and  fearful,  were  employed  lading 

a  boat  with  charcoal,  singing  during  their  labour. 

Their  necks,  arms,  and  legs,  were  naked.    They 


IN  TURKEY.  415 

had  large  whiskers,  and  wore  turbans ;  the  rest  CHAP. 
of  their  clothes  consisted  only  of  a  short  jacket  ^  -A-' 
and  a  pair  of  drawers.  As  we  proceeded  from 
the  shore,  a  party  of  better-dressed  natives 
approached ;  every  one  of  whom  was  differently 
habited.  One  wore  a  long  pelisse,  with  a  high 
Tahtar  cap ;  another,  a  large  green  turban ;  a 
third,  who  was  a  Greek  slave,  at  every  one's  call, 
had  upon  his  head  a  small  scull-cap  of  red-cloth. 
The  heavy-looking  Turks,  rolling  their  yellow 
sleepy  eyes,  and  exhaling  volumes  of  smoke 
from  their  lips,  spoke  to  no  one ;  seeming  to 
think  it  labour  to  utter  a  syllable,  or  even  to 
put  one  foot  before  the  other.  Some  few 
murmured  out  the  word  Salaam  :  upon  this  our 
Captain  congratulated  us  ;  adding,  "  The  welcome 
of  a  Turk,  and  the  farewell  of  a  Russian,  are 
pleasing  sounds."  Encouraged  by  this  fa- 
vourable character  of  the  people,  we  applied  to 
one  of  them  for  a  little  brandy,  which  our  crew 
wanted;  but  were  instantly  checked  by  the 
Captain,  who  asked  how  we  could  think  of 
asking  for  brandy  from  a  Turk ;  and  directed  us 
to  make  our  wishes  known  to  the  Greek  slave  in 
a  whisper,  who  would  find  means  to  procure  it 
from  them  without  offending  their  prejudices. 
None,  however,  could  be  obtained ;  tobacco,  wood, 
charcoal,  and  coffee,  were  all  they  had  at  this 


416  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA, 

CHAP,    time  to  sell ;  so,  after  taking  a  little  of  the  latter, 
we  returned  on  board. 

During  the  night  and  the  following  day, 
Turkish  boats  continued  to  sail  into  the  harbour ; 
the  atmosphere  being  cloudy  and  very  dark, 
with  a  strong  wind  from  the  south,  and  a  very 
threatening  aspect  in  the  sky.  Their  pilots 
said  they  came  "  to  see  what  the  moon  would  do" 
it  being  within  three  days  of  the  change.  The 
next  day  we  visited  the  north-west  side  of  the 
port,  near  to  the  coffee-houses.  Close  to  the 
shore  appeared  the  ruin  of  an  antient  mole l,  a 
part  of  which  is  under  water ;  and  upon  its 
western  side,  as  we  passed  in  the  boat,  might 
be  discerned  the  shafts  of  antient  co lum ns*,  lying 
at  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  Having  landed,  we 
found  the  Turkish  sailors,  with  all  the  passengers 
who  had  arrived  in  their  vessels,  seated,  as 
before  described,  around  pans  of  charcoal, 
smoking  tobacco.  The  master  of  the  principal 
coffee-house  brought  us  coffee  in  little  cups, 
without  milk  or  sugar,  and  made  as  thick  as 
we  drink  chocolate  in  England;  at  least  one 
half  of  each  cup  being  filled  with  sediment. 
This,  our  interpreter  told  us,  the  Turks  regard 

(1)  See  the  Vignette  to  the  next  Chapter. 

(2)  IbJd. 


IN  TURKEY.  417 

as  a  proof  of  perfection  in  coffee  prepared  for    CHAP. 
use.     The  Reader  perhaps  will  not  feel  himself  «.   .»•.  i 
much  concerned  to  be  further  informed  respect- 
ing such  particulars.     So  fickle  a  thing  is  taste, 
that  Englishmen  resident  in  Turkey  soon  learn 
to  prefer  coffee  made  after  the  Turkish  manner ; 
and  Turks,  after  living  in  England,  drink  their 
coffee  clear. 

The  folio  wing  day  a  greater  number  of  vessels 
came  into  the  harbour ;  and  many  of  the  natives 
flocked  to  the  coast,  to  sell  flesh  and  fruit,  or  to 
gratify  their  curiosity  in  viewing  the  numerous 
fleet  then  assembled.  By  much  the  greater 
part  assembled  upon  the  shore  were  inhabitants 
of  the  mountains  that  separate  Adrianople  from 
the  coast  of  the  Black  Sea.  These  mountains, 
although  they  be  not  strictly  Alpine,  seem  to 
possess  great  elevation,  and  between  them  are 
many  profound  valleys  covered  with  forests. 
Oaks,  and  other  trees,  flourish  close  to  the  sea. 
The  cattle  consist  of  sheep,  cows,  and  buffaloes. 
The  mountaineers,  who  came  to  Ineada,  ap-  Mountain- 
peared  as  wild  and  savage  a  race  as  the  natives 
of  Caucasus :  they  were  in  stature  stout  and 
short :  all  of  them  carried  arms,  both  as  weapons 
of  defence,  and  as  badges  of  distinction.  Their 
girdles  were  so  laden  with  carabines,  pistols, 
knives,  and  poignards,  that,  besides  their 


ecrs. 


418  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA, 

cumbrous  size,  the  mere  v  ;ight  of  their  weapons 
must  prove  a  serious  burden.  The  handles  of 
their  pistols  and  poignards  were  made  as  tawdry 
as  possible  ;  being  richly  mounted  in  silver,  and 
studded  with  ivory,  mother-of-pearl,  and  pre- 
cious stones.  Upon  their  heads  they  wore  caps 
of  black  wool ;  and  over  these,  coarse  turbans, 
bound  about  the  forehead  and  temples.  Upon 
their  shoulders  they  carried  the  same  kind  of 
short  cloak  made  of  felt,  or  fleece,  which  is 
worn  by  the  Circassian  mountaineers;  from 
whom  they  only  seem  to  differ  in  being  more 
heavily  armed,  and  in  wearing  the  turban. 

As  their  numbers  increased,  our  visits  to  the 
shore  became  less  frequent ;  not  in  consequence 
of  any  immediate  danger  to  which  our  lives  were 
exposed,  but  owing  to  the  insults  likely  to  be 
offered  by  a  lawless  tribe  of  men,  not  very 
amicably  disposed  towards  each  other,  and 
under  no  government.  The  noise  of  their  dis- 
putes reached  even  to  our  vessel,  as  she  lay  at 
anchor.  The  Turkish  sailors  belonging  to  the 
little  fleet  of  boats  behaved  better ;  and  from 
these  we  often  purchased  tobacco,  bread,  brandy, 
honey,  and  other  necessaries. 

Upon  the  north  side  of  this  port  is  a  series  of 
basaltic  columns,  forming  part  of  the  cliff  towards 


IN   TURKEY.  419 

the  sea:  they  are  disti  wished  by  circumstances  CHAP. 
of  mineral  association,  which  merit  particular  L  -T-  J 
notice.  Upon  the  same  side  of  the  coast,  to 
the  westward  of  the  basaltic  range,  the  strata 
consist  of  a  secondary  deposit,  inclining  to  the 
horizon  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty -five  degrees. 
Then  occur  the  pillars  in  prismatic  forms ;  pre- 
serving, by  the  line  of  their  bases,  exactly  the 
same  dipping  inclination  towards  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  continuing  the  whole  way  to  the 
extreme  point  of  the  promontory,  upon  the 
northern  side  of  the  port  oflneada.  There  is  not 
a  single  appearance  anywhere,  in  or  near  the 
harbour,  to  indicate  the  agency  of  subterraneous 
fire.  The  strata  are  of  lumachella,  of  ochreous 
indurated  clay,  of  common  limestone,  or  of  sand- 
stone: these  are  all  terminated  by  the  range  of 
prismatic  rocks,  ending  abruptly  at  the  point  of 
the  promontory ;  their  further  extension  being 
lost  in  the  sea.  Therefore,  as  this  series  of 
basaltic  rocks  preserves  the  same  dipping  in- 
clination which  is  possessed  by  all  the  other 
strata,  it  seems  manifest,  upon  the  most  super- 
ficial examination,  that  it  was  deposited  after 
the  same  manner;  and,  by  attending  to  the 
internal  structure  and  composition  of  the  pillars, 
this  truth  appears  to  be  further  established. 
Their  form  is  generally  hexagonal;  but  it  is 
rarely  perfect.  The  substance  of  which  they 
VOL.  IT.  2  E 


420  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA, 

CHAP,  consist  is  a  decomposed  and  crumbling  porphyry 
so  imperfectly  adhering,  that  upon  the  slightest 
shock  it  falls  to  pieces.  Climbing  the  sides  of 
the  cliff,  we  found  it  to  be  dangerous  even  to 
place  our  feet  upon  any  of  those  pillars  ;  whole 
masses  giving  way  with  a  touch,  and,  falling 
down,  were  instantly  reduced  to  the  state  of 
gravel.  Nuclei  of  an  aluminous  substance  might 
be  discerned  in  the  very  centre  of  their  shafts  ; 
and  white  veins,  of  an  exceedingly  soft  crum- 
bling semi-transparent  matter,  not  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  traversed  the  whole  range,  in  a 
direction  parallel  to  the  base  of  the  columns. 
The  vertical  fissures  between  all  the  pillars  were 
filled  with  a  white  kind  of  marble,  forming  a  line 
of  separation  between  them,  which  prevented 
their  lateral  planes  from  coming  into  contact1. 
Those  vertical  veins,  thus  coating  the  sides  of 
the  columns,  were  in  some  instances  three 
inches  in  thickness.  From  all  these  facts,  it 


seems  evident  that  the  basaltic  pillars  of  Ineada 
have  been  the  result  of  an  aqueous  deposition  ; 
and  that  their  prismatic  configuration,  like  that 
of  starch,  or  the  natural  columns  of  trap,  seen  at 


(l)  A  similar  incrustation  of  zeolite  may  be  observed  upon  the 
lateral  planes  of  the  pillars  at  Staffa,  and  upon  the  north  coast  of 
Ireland;  also  of  sparry  carbonate  of  lime  in  pit-coal,  when  it  exhibits  a 
near  approach  towards  crystallization. 


IN    TURKEY.  421 

Halleberg  and  Hunneberg  in  Siueden,  and  in  many 
other  parts  of  Europe,  is  entirely  owing  to 
CRYSTALLIZATION,  which  is  equally  displayed 
in  the  minutest  and  in  the  most  majestic  forms  ; 
which,  while  it  prescribes  the  shape  of  an 
emerald,  or  planes  the  surface  of  a  mountain  2? 
does  always  tend  to  a  regularity  of  structure, 
more  or  less  perfect,  in  proportion  as  the  laws 
of  cohesion  have  been  modified  or  interrupted  by 
disturbing  causes3. 


(2)  Witness  the  remarkable   result  of  crystallization  exhibited  by 
"  the  Polished  Mountain"  near  St.  Bernard  in  the  Alps,  described  by 
Saussure.     The  author  visited  this  mountain  in    1 794,  and  observed, 
upon  its  polished  surface,  that  striated  appearance  which  is  visible  upon 
the  planes  of  any  crystal,  when  examined  with  a  lens. 

(3)  The  most  eminent  mineralogist  of  the  present  age  considers  the 
prismatic  configuration  of  basaltes  to  be  owing  to  a  retreat :  and  with 
all  deference  to  his  great  authority,   it  may  be  urged,  that  all  crys* 
tallization  is  the  result  of  a  retreating  fluid ;    whether  of  the  fluid 
matter  of  heat,  or  of  any  other,  wherein  solution  has  been  effected. 


2   E  2 


C  HA  R  T 

of  the 

PORT   OF    INEADA, 
iy  THE  BLACK  SEA, 

in  Latitude  41°.  51'.  with  the  Soundings, 
from  actual  obtenations  by  E.  D.  C. 


CHAP.  XI. 

FROM  THE  HARBOUR  OF  INEADA  IN  THE 
BLACK  SEA,  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Pbyage  to  Constantinople — Entrance  of  the  Canal — 
Return  to  the  Cyanean  Isles — Geological  Phenomena — 
Votive  Altar — Singular  Breccia — Origin  of MeThracian 
Bosporus  —  Antiquities —  Of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter 


HARBOUR  OF  INEADA.  423 

Urius,  and  the  place  called  Hieron — Prolalle  Situation 
of  Darius  when  he  surveyed  the  Euxine— Approach  to 
Constantinople —  Disgusting  Appearance  of  the  Streets 
—  Arrival  at  Galata — Per  a — State  of  Turkish 
Commerce. 


Friday,  November  the  twenty-first,  at  ten  CHAP. 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  a  bustle  in  the  little  fleet 
of  Turkish  boats  announced  that  they  were  all 
getting  to  sea  as  fast  as  possible.  The  wind  had  tinople- 
veered,  after  a  foggy  day,  to  the  w.  s.  w. ;  and 
the  atmosphere  became  perfectly  clear.  Our 
Captain,  following  their  example,  as  perhaps 
deeming  them  more  experienced  mariners  of  the 
Black  Sea,  ordered  his  crew  to  weigh  the  anchor. 
When  it  came  on  board,  we  found  it  had  lost 
one  of  its  flukes :  this  the  sailors  considered  as 
a  bad  omen  ;  and  some  of  them  said,  if  we  left 
the  port  with  such  an  anchor,  we  should  never 
have  occasion  to  use  another.  We  were  how- 
ever under  weigh ;  and,  spreading  all  the  great 
sails  to  the  wind,  soon  quitted  the  harbour  of 
Ineada,  steering  to  the  south-east.  At  three  in 
the  morning  of  the  22d,  we  were  becalmed,  and 
a  hazy  atmosphere  surrounded  us  on  all  sides. 
At  four,  it  began  to  blow  a  gale  from  the  north; 
and  we  made  our  course  E.  and  s.  until  eight, 
when  we  discovered  the  coast  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Canal  of  Constantinople,  and  then  steered  s.  E. 


424  VOYAGE  FROM  1NEADA, 

CHAP.  Scarcely  had  we  made  the  land,  when  a  heavy 
rain  fell:  this  continued  till  mid-day;  and  we 
were  involved  in  such  darkness,  that  those 
in  the  poop  could  hardly  see  the  forecastle. 
About  noon,  the  wind  having  abated,  and  a  pro- 
digious sea  rolling,  the  weather  again  cleared  : 
we  then  discovered  the  light-tower  on  the 
European  side  of  the  Canal,  at  no  great  distance. 
The  boatswain  first  gave  us  the  agreeable 
intelligence  from  the  mast-head :  soon  after,  we 
all  saw  it  from  the  deck,  stationed  at  the  base  of 
an  immense  range  of  mountains.  At  the  same 
time,  the  whole  coast,  both  upon  the  European 
and  the  Asiatic  side,  appeared  with  a  degree  of 
grandeur  not  to  be  described ;  like  a  vast  wall 
opposed  to  the  great  bed  of  waters,  in  which 
the  mouth  of  the  Canal  could  only  be  compared 
to  a  small  crack,  or  fissure,  caused  by  an  earth- 
quake. Soon  afterwards,  a  fog  covered  us  again, 
and  we  once  more  lost  sight  of  land.  We  were 
then  enveloped  in  such  thick  darkness,  that  we 
began  to  despair,  and  to  dread  another  scene  of 
trial  in  that  terrible  sea,  so  properly  termed  by 
the  Antients,  AEENOS,  inhospitable*.  The  supersti- 
tion of  the  crew  served  however  to  amuse  us, 
even  in  this  state  of  suspense.  Our  old  pilot,  a 

(1)  "  Frigida  me  cohibent  Euxini  littora  Ponti ; 

Dictus  ab  antiquis  AXENUS  ille  fuit." 

Ovid.  lib.  iv.   Trist.  Eleg.  IV. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  425 

Greek,  hobbled  about  the  ship,  collecting  small  CHAP. 
pieces  of  money  from  the  crew  :  these  he  tied  *  T  '  _• 
up  in  a  rag,  and  bound  upon  the  pole  of  the 
rudder:  it  was  "  to  buy  oil,"  he  said,  "  for  the 
lamp  burning  before  an  image  at  the  light-house ;" 
a  curious  vestige  of  more  antient  superstition, 
when  mariners,  entering  the  Bosporus  from  the 
Euxine,  paid  their  vows  upon  the  precise  spot 
where  the  Phandri,  or  light-tower,  now  stands 2. 
About  half  after  one  p.  M.  our  hopes  revived: 
a  general  cry  on  board  announced  that  we  were 
close  in  with  the  land.  Two  little  Turkish  boats, 
like  nautili,  had  been  flying  before  us  the  whole 
day,  serving  as  guides,  to  encourage  our  perse- 
verance in  the  course  we  held.  Without  these, 
the  Captain  said  he  could  not  have  ventured  to 
carry  such  a  press  of  sail  upon  a  lee-shore, 
covered  as  it  was  by  darkness.  The  rapidity 
with  which  they  sailed  was  amazing.  Nothing 
could  persuade  the  Captain  but  that  they  were 
"  due  angeli;"  and,  in  proof  of  this,  he  declared 
that  they  vanished  as  soon  as  they  entered  the 
Straits.  "We  now  clearly  discerned  the  mouth 
of  the  Canal,  with  the  Cyanean  Isles 3,  and  the 

(2)  Xenophon.  Hist.  Grac.  lib.vii.  pp.380,  412. 

(3)  "  Antequam  in  Bosphorum  venias,  scopuli  duo,  quos  Cyaneas  «t 
Symplegades  olim   Graeci   dixerunt,    ad   dexteram  in  ipso  Ponti   ostio 
oceurrunt ;  in  quorum  uno  columna  vetus  e  marmore  candidissimo,  quam 
vulgus   Pompeii  nominat,     posita  est."      Doma  Her  Constant,  p.  20. 
L.  Sat.  1600. 


to  the 
CanaL 


426  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

land  both  on  the  European  and  on  the  Asiatic 
side;  the  houses  upon  the  shore  facing  the 
Black  Sea  ;  and  an  enlivening  prospect  of  groves 
and  gardens.  Every  preparation  was  made  for 
terminating  our  perilous  voyage ;  the  hold  being 
opened  to  let  out  the  anchor  cables,  and  the 
crew  expressing  their  transports  by  mirth  and 
congratulations. 

As  we  entered  the  Straits,  a  miserable  lantern, 
placed  upon  a  tower  on  either  side,  exhibited 
all  that  was  intended  to  serve  as  guidance  for 
seamen  during  the  night.  Never  were  light- 
houses of  more  importance,  or  to  which  less 
attention  has  been  paid.  An  officer  of  the  customs 
put  off  from  the  shore  in  his  boat;  but  con- 
tented himself  with  merely  asking  the  name  of 
the  Captain,  and  did  not  come  on  board.  After 
passing  the  light-houses,  we  saw  some  fortresses, 
the  works  of  French  engineers ;  and  their  ap- 
pearance upon  rugged  rocks  has  a  very  striking 
effect '.  Presently,  such  a  succession  of  splendid 
objects  was  displayed,  that,  in  all  the  remem- 
brance of  his  former  travels,  the  author  can 
recall  nothing  to  which  it  may  be  compared. 
A  rapid  current,  flowing  at  the  rate  of  a  league 


(1)  That  on  the  European  side  was  the  work  of  Baron  de  Tott. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  427 

an  hour,  conveyed  us  from  the  Black  Sea.  Then, 
as  we  were  musing  upon  the  sudden  discharge 
of  such  accumulated  waters  by  so  narrow  an 
aqueduct,  and  meditating  the  causes  which  first 
produced  the  wonderful  channel  by  which  they 
are  conveyed,  we  found  ourselves  to  be  trans- 
ported, as  it  were,  into  a  new  world.  Scarcely 
had  we  time  to  admire  the  extraordinary  beauty 
of  the  villages  scattered  up  and  down  at  the 
mouth  of  this  Canal,  when  the  palaces  and 
gardens  of  the  European  and  of  Asiatic  Turks,  the 
villas  of  foreign  ambassadors,  mosques,  minarets, 
mouldering  towers,  and  the  ivy-mantled  walls 
of  antient  edifices,  made  their  appearance. 
Among  these  we  beheld  an  endless  variety  of 
objects,  seeming  to  realize  tales  of  enchantment: 
fountains,  ccemeteries,  hills,  mountains,  terraces, 
groves,  quays,  painted  gondolas,  and  harbours, 
presented  themselves  to  the  eye  in  such  a  rapid 
succession,  that,  as  one  picture  disappeared,  it 
was  succeeded  by  a  second,  more  beautiful 
than  the  first2.  To  the  pleasure  thus  afforded, 


(2)  "  Bosphori  dextrum  latus  longissima  oppidorum  serie  praetexi- 
tur      Sinistrumnontam  ffidificiis  oblectationi  dicatis,  quam  collibu* 
fructiferis,  hortisque  Regiis  collucet:  quos  singulos  quid  al.ud  esse 
dicam,  quam  Thessalica  ilia  Tempe  amcenissirna,  sed  longfc  amoemon, 
nisi  ea  Lapith*  Centauri  baud  secus  quam  Hesperidum  pomaria 
ille,  custodirent,  proculque  spectators  arcerent."     Dous*  Iter 
ttantinop.  p.1\.   l»  Bat.  1600. 


428  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

CHAR  add  also  the  joy  of  having  escaped  the  dangers 
of  an  inhospitable  sea ;  and  it  may  be  readily 
conceived,  that  a  combination  of  circumstances 
more  calculated  to  affect  the  heart  can  seldom 
occur.  All  our  apprehensions  and  prejudices, 
respecting  the  pestilence,  the  barbarism,  the 
vices,  and  the  numberless  perils  of  Turkey, 
vanished.  Unmindful  of  the  inward  deformities 
of  the  country,  we  considered  only  her  splendid 
vesture.  Suddenly,  our  vessel,  instead  of  ad- 
vancing, although  every  sail  were  distended  by 
the  wind,  remained  immoveable  in  the  midst  of 
the  Canal.  An  extraordinary  and  contrary 
current  held  us  stationary.  The  waters  of  the 
Black  Sea,  after  flowing  for  ages  towards  the 
Sea  of  Marmora,  had  suddenly  taken  an  opposite 
course,  and  were  returning  to  their  native  bed. 
At  a  loss  to  account  for  this  new  appearance, 
the  Captain  ordered  his  men  to  let  go  the 
smaller  anchor;  and  a  number  of  Turks,  in 
their  gondolas,  crowding  around  the  Moderato, 
informed  us  of  the  cause.  A  south-west  wind 
had  prevailed  during  many  days,  and,  by  its 
violence,  diverted  the  ordinary  course  of  the 
current.  It  became  necessary,  therefore,  to 
wait  until  a  change  took  place ;  and  an  oppor- 
tunity was  offered,  not  only  of  examining  more 
attentively  the  scenery  around  us,  but  also  of 
making  inquiry  into  the  natural  history  of  a 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  429 

country,  as  remarkable  for  its  physical  phaeno-    CHAP. 
mena  as  for  the  interest  afforded  by  its  antient  v  -T— •-* 
history. 

We  had  passed  the  town  of  Buyuckdery,  a 
sort  of  watering-place,  whither  foreign  ministers 
at  the  Porte  retire  during  the  summer  months : 
this  place  is  filled  with  villas  and  palaces  be- 
longing to  the  inhabitants  of  Pera.  Our  vessel 
was  anchored  opposite  to  Yenikeuy,  a  similar 
retreat  of  less  celebrity.  Here  the  Canal  is  so 
narrow,  that  we  were  able  to  converse  with 
persons  upon  either  side,  in  Europe  or  Asia. 
The  late  hurricane  had  unroofed,  and  otherwise 
damaged,  several  houses  in  both  these  towns. 
During  the  night  after  our  arrival,  a  storm 
raged  with  such  fury  from  the  north,  that  the 
Moderato  and  the  Aronetto,  although  held  by 
stout  cables  fastened  round  the  trees  upon  the 
shore,  as  well  as  by  their  anchors,  drove  from 
their  stations  during  the  violence  of  the  gale. 
Soon  after  midnight  we  were  called  by  the 
watch  to  notice  a  dreadful  conflagration  in  Con- 
stantinople, which  seemed  to  fill  the  horizon 
with  fire,  and  exhibited  an  alarming  spectacle 
from  our  cabin  windows.  The  sight  is  however 
so  common,  that  we  were  told  we  should  find 
no  notice  taken  of  the  accident  when  we  reached 
the  city,  which  proved  to  be  the  case.  The 


430  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

burning  of  fifty  or  an  hundred  houses  is  consi- 
dered of  no  moment  by  persons  who  are  not 
themselves  the  sufferers ;  the  buildings  are  soon 
supplied  by  others,  constructed  precisely  after 
the  plan  and  model  of  those  which  have  been 
destroyed. 


On  the  following  morning,  a  contrary  wind 
and  current  still  prevailing,  notwithstanding 
the  gale  which  had  blown  from  the  north  during 
the  night,  we  dispatched  our  interpreter  to 
Constantinople,  to  inform  the  British  Ambassador 
of  our  safe  arrival ;  to  provide  lodgings ;  and 
also  to  bring  our  letters.  In  the  mean  time, 
having  procured  a  large  boat  with  a  set  of  stout 
gondoliers,  we  were  resolved  to  venture  as  far 
as  ^e  islands  antiently  called  Cyanea?,  or  Sym- 
pfegades,  lying  off  the  mouth  of  the  Canal.  The 
accurate  Busbequius*  confessed,  that,  in  the  few 
hours  he  spent  upon  the  Black  Sea,  he  could 
discern  no  traces  of  their  existence :  we  had, 
however,  in  the  preceding  evening,  seen  enough 
of  them  to  entertain  great  curiosity  concerning 
their  nature  and  situation,  even  in  the  transitory 
view  afforded  by  means  of  our  telescopes.  Stralo 
correctly  describes  their  number  and  situa- 
tion. "  The  Cyanete"  says  he,  "  in  the  mouth 

(I)  Buslequius's  Travels  in  Turkey,  Epist.  I. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  431 

of  Pvntus,  are  two  little  isles,  one  upon  the  CHAP. 
European,  and  the  other  upon  the  Asiatic  side  *  .»-.•< 
of  the  Strait ;  separated  from  each  other  by 
twenty  stadia*"  The  more  antient  accounts, 
representing  them  as  sometimes  separated,  and 
at  other  times  joined  together,  were  satisfac- 
torily explained  by  Tournefort3 ;  who  observed, 
that  each  of  them  consists  of  one  craggy  island ; 
but  that,  when  the  sea  is  disturbed,  the  water 
covers  the  lower  parts,  so  as  to  make  the 
different  points  of  either  resemble  insular  rocks. 
They  are,  in  fact,  each  joined  to  the  main  land 
by  a  kind  of  isthmus,  and  appear  as  islands 
when  this  is  inundated ;  which  always  happens 
in  stormy  weather.  But  it  is  not  certain  that 
the  isthmus,  connecting  either  of  them  with  the 
continent,  was  formerly  visible.  The  disclosure 
has  been  probably  owing  to  that  gradual  sinking 
of  the  level  of  the  Black  Sea,  before  noticed. 
The  same  cause  continuing  to  operate,  may 
hereafter  lead  posterity  to  marvel  what  is 
become  of  the  Cyanea?;  and  this  may  also 
account  for  their  multiplied  appearance  in  ages 
anterior  to  the  time  of  Strabo.  The  main  object 
of  our  visit  was  not,  however,  the  illustration  of 
any  antient  author,  in  this  particular  part  of 


(2)  Strab.  Geogr.  lib.  vii.  p.  463.  ed.  Oxon. 

(3)  Voy.  du  Lev.  Lett.  XV. 


432  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

their  history ;  but  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  by 
the  geological  phenomena  of  the  coast,  the 
nature  of  a  revolution,  which  opened  the  re- 
markable channel,  at  whose  mouth  those  islands 
are  situate. 

Geological       -for  some  time  before  we  reached  the  entrance 

rhaeno- 

to  the  Canal,  steering  close  along  its  European 
side,  we  observed  in  the  cliffs  and  hills,  even 
to  their  summits,  a  remarkable  aggregate  of 
heterogeneous  stony  substances,  rounded  by 
attrition  in  water,  imbedded  in  a  hard  natural 
cement,  yet  differing  from  the  usual  appearance 
of  breccia  rocks  ;  for,  upon  a  nearer  examination, 
the  whole  mass  appears  to  have  undergone, 
first,  a  violent  action  of  fire,  and  secondly, 
that  degree  of  friction  in  water,  to  which  their 
form  must  be  ascribed.  Breccia  rocks  do  not 
commonly  consist  of  substances  so  modified. 
The  stratum  formed  by  this  singular  aggregate, 
and  the  parts  composing  it,  exhibited,  by  the 
circumstances  of  their  position,  a  striking  proof 
of  the  power  of  an  inundation  ;  having  dragged 
along  with  it  the  constituent  parts  of  the  mix- 
ture, over  all  the  heights  above  the  present 
level  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  deposited  them 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  no  doubt  but 
that  a  torrent  had  there  passed  towards 
the  Sea  of  Marmora,  All  the  strata  of  the 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  433 

mountains,  and  each  individual  mass  composing    CHAP. 
them,  lean  from  the  north  towards  the  south,  v   -v-  -i 
At    the   point  of  the  European  light-house,  we 
found  the  sea  still  tempestuous,  beating  against 
immense   rocks  of  a  hard  and  compact  lava: 
these  rocks  have  separated  prismatically,  and 
they  exhibit   surfaces   tinged    by  the  oxide  of 
iron. 

From  this  point  we  passed  to  the  Cyanean  Votive 
Lie,  upon  the  European  side  of  the  Strait; 
and  there  landed.  It  is  remarkable  for  an 
altar  of  white  marble,  long  known  under  the 
name  of  Pompeys  Pillar.  Whence  it  received 
this  appellation,  it  is  perhaps  impossible  to 
ascertain.  If  the  representation  given  in 
Sandys  Travels  be  corrects  there  once  stood 
a  column  upon  this  altar.  He  describes  it  as 
"  a  piller  of  white  marble,  called  vulgarly,  The 
Filler  of  Pompey  :  the  basis  whereof  did  beare 
these  now  worne-out  characters 2: 

DIVO  •  CAESARI  •  AVGVSTO  • 
L  •  CLANNIDIVS 
L  •  F  •  CLA  •  PONTO   " 


(1)  Sandys'  Travels,  p.  40.  ed.  3.     Land.  1632. 

(2)  Wlieler  gives   a  different  reading  of  this  inscription;  and  has 
endeavoured  to   reconcile  his  legend  with  names  recorded  by  GrMer. 
See  Wkeler's  Journey,  Sfc.   Lond.   1632.    /?.207.     Leundavius,  and 

George 


434  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

CHAP,  if  by  the  basis  be  meant  the  altar,  the  cha- 
racters  are  no  longer  visible;  at  least  they 
escaped  our  observation.  Sandys  was  too  ac- 
curate a  writer  to  insert  such  an  inscription 
without  authority.  Tournefort3  confirms  what 
he  has  said,  by  giving  a  description  of  the 
pillar,  although  the  sea  would  not  permit  him 
to  examine  it  closely;  and  he  adds,  that  the 
base  and  shaft  were  not  made  for  each  other. 
According  to  him,  it  was  a  Corinthian  pillar, 
about  twelve  feet  high,  placed,  perhaps,  as  a 
guide  to  vessels.  The  history  of  the  altar  is 
preserved  by  Dionysius  of  Byzantium'1,  who 
relates,  that  an  altar  to  Apollo  was  placed  upon 
this  rock;  whereof,  says  Tournefort,  the  base 
of  this  pillar  may  be  a  remnant ;  for  the  festoons 
are  of  laurel-leaves,  which  were  from  a  tree 
sacred  to  that  God.  The  altar  remains  entire  ; 
the  loss  of  the  column  has  only  restored  it  to 
its  original  state.  The  festoons  are  supported 


George  Dousa  who  visited  the  spot  in  1759,  give  the  reading  as  it  has 
been  here  published.  Perhaps  Sandys  copied  the  Inscription  from 
Dousa,  whose  work  is  now  exceedingly  rare.  "  In  basi  hujus  Columnar 
Inscriptionem  Latinis  literis  incisatn  animadvert],  caeterum  ita  vetus- 
tate  temporis  exesam,  ut  si  earn  I  Leunclavius  V.  N.  et  in  hoc  stu- 
diorum  genere  haud  tralaticiti  versatus,  non  eruisset,  a  nemine  legi 
posset."  Douses  Her  Constantinop.  p.  20.  L.  Bat,  1GOO. 

(3)  Voyage  du  Lev.    Lett.  XV. 

(4)  Dionysius   Byzantius,    apud    Gyllium,    de    Boq>h.   Throe,    lib. 
iii.  c.  5. 


XI. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE, 
by  rams'  heads,  a  mode  of  decoration  common  to    CHAP 

"V  T 

many  of  the  altars  tfAntient  Greece5.  The  shores 
of  this  extremity  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus  were 
once  covered  by  every  description  of  votive 
offering ;  by  tablets,  altars,  shrines,  and  temples ; 
monuments  of  the  fears  or  the  gratitude  of 
mariners,  who  were  about  to  brave,  or  who 
had  escaped,  the  dangers  of  the  Euxine.  Owing 
to  their  peculiar  sanctity,  the  different  places 
in  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  were  all  included 
under  one  general  appellation  of  'JEPA.  The 
remains  of  those  antiquities  were  so  numerous, 
even  in  the  time  of  Tournefort,  that  he  describes 
the  coasts  "  as  covered  by  their  ruins;'  and 
almost  every  thing  concerning  them  in  antient 
history  has  been  detailed  with  equal  brevity 
and  learning,  in  his  description  of  the  Canal  of 
the  Black  Sea6. 

(5)  During  a  subsequent  visit  which  we  made  to  this  isle,  with  the 
Commander  of  an  American  frigate,  one  of  his  boat's  crew  attempted 
to  break  off  a  part  of  the  sculpture  with  a  large  sledge-hammer; 
instigated  by  an  inferior  officer,  who  wished  to  carry  home  a  piece  of 
the  marble.  We  were  fortunate  in  preventing  a  second  blow,  although 
some  injury  were  done  by  the  first.  The  loss  the  Fine  Arts  have 
Sustained,  in  this  Way,  by  our  own  countrymen,  in  Greece  and  Egypt, 
cannot  be  too  much  regretted.  A  better  taste  seems,  however,  about 
to  prevail.  The  example  of  Sir  J.  Stuart,  who  prevented  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  granite  Sarcophagus  in  the  great  Pyramid  of  Djtza,  by  his 
positive  orders  to  those  of  our  troops  in  Egypt,  who  were  under  his 
command,  deserves  the  commendation  of  all  Europe. 

(6)  See  Voyage  dit  Lev,  Lett.  XV.  addressed  to  the  French  Secretary 
of  State. 

VOL.  II.  2  F 


48G  VOYAGE  FROM  INEADA, 

To  return,  therefore,  to  the  immediate  purport 
of  our  visit  upon  this  occasion.     The  structure 
singular     of  the  rock,  whereof  the  island  consists,  corre- 

Breccia. 

sponds  with  the  nature  of  the  strata  already 
described;  but  the  substances  composing  it 
were  perhaps  never  before  associated  in  any 
mineral  aggregate.  They  all  appear  to  have 
been  more  or  less  modified  by  fire,  and  to  have 
been  cemented  during  the  boiling  of  a  volcano.  . 
In  the  same  mass  may  be  observed  fragments 
of  various-coloured  lava,  of  trap,  of  basalt,  and 
of  marble.  In  the  fissures  appear  agate,  chal- 
cedony, and  quartz,  but  in  friable  and  thin  veins, 
not  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  deposited  post- 
erior to  the  settling  of  the  stratum.  The  agate 
appeared  in  a  vein  of  considerable  extent, 
occupying  a  deep  fissure  not  more  than  an 
inch  wide,  and  coated  by  a  green  earth, 
resembling  some  of  the  lavas  of  JEtna,  which 
have  been  decomposed  by  acidiferous  vapours. 
Near  the  same  vein  we  found  a  substance 
resembling  native  mercury,  but  in  such  ex- 
ceedingly minute  particles,  and  in  a  crumbling 
matrix,  that  it  was  impossible  to  preserve  a 
specimen.  The  summit  of  this  insular  rock  is 
the  most  favourable  situation  for  surveying  the 
mouth  of  the  Canal :  thus  viewed,  it  has  the 
appearance  of  a  crater,  whose  broken  sides 
were  opened  towards  the  Black  Sea,  and,  by  a 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  437 

smaller  aperture,  towards   the  Bosporus.    The     CHAP. 
Asiatic  side  of  the  Strait    is  distinguished  by  »•    -T  '_• 
appearances  similar  to  those  already  described ; 
with  this  difference,  that,  opposite  to  the  island, 
a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Anatolian  light-house,  a 
range  of  basaltic  pillars  may  be  discerned,  stand- 
ing upon    a  base   inclined   towards  the   sea ;      s   • 
and  when  examined    with    a  telescope,    exhi- 
biting very  regular  prismatic  forms.     From  all  t 
the    preceding    observations,     and    after    due  " 

porus. 

consideration  of  events  recorded  in  history, 
as  compared  with  the  phenomena  of  Nature, 
it  is,  perhaps,  more  than  probable,  that  the 
bursting  of  the  Thracian  Bosporus,  the  deluge 
mentioned  by  Diodorus  Siculus,  and  the  draining 
of  the  waters  once  uniting  the  Black  Sea  to  the 
Caspian,  were  all  the  consequence  of  an  earth- 
quake caused  by  subterraneous  fires,  which 
were  not  extinct  at  the  time  of  the  passage 
of  the  Argonauts,  and  whose  effects  are  still 
visible '. 


(I)  Plato,  in  the  third  book  of  the  Laws,  mentions  three  floods,  as 
having  happened  in  Greece.  These  appear  to  be,  I.  That  of  Lycaon, 
recorded  by  the  Aru.nd.el  Marbles,  less  than  a  century  prior  to  the 
Trojan  Waty  2.  That  of  Deucalion,  who  lived  about  three  centuries 
and  a  half  before  this  war,  according  to  the  Arundel  Marbles.  3.  That 
ofOgyges:  this,  according  to  Julius  Solinus  and -others,  happened 
600  years  before  that  of  Deucalion,  and  consequently  about  1000 

before  the  war  of  Troy. 

2  F2 


Antiqui- 
ties. 


Of  the 


THROUGH  THE  THRACIAN  BOSPORUS, 

The  antiquities  of  the  Thradan  Bosporus  have 
been  noticed  .in  a  cursory  manner  by  many 
travellers.  The  Abbe  Barthelemy,  in  his  Travels 
of  Anacharsis,  has  upon  this  subject  been 
particularly  deficient,  considering  the  extent  of 
his  resources,  and  the  importance  of  the  dis- 
cussion to  the  work  he  had  undertaken1.  By 
ascertaining  the  nature  of  the  worship,  and  the 
antiquity  of  the  temples,  founded  by  the  earliest 
inhabitants  of  the  Bosporus  upon  its  shores, 
some  notion  might  be  formed  of  the  eera  when 
the  channel  itself  was  laid  open.  Formaleoni, 
whose  writings  have  been  before  cited,  has  en- 
tered somewhat  diffusely  into  the  inquiry ;  and 
a  reference  to  his  Work2  will  be  useful  to  those 
who  seek  for  information  in  this  respect. 


Temple  of  Tournefort  considers  the  situation  of  the  castles 
Urius,  and  upon  the  European  and  Asiatic  sides  of  the 
called80  Strait  as  marking  tke  sites  of  the  antient  fanes 
Of  japiter  Serapis  and  of  Jupiter  Urius,  called  by 
Strabo,  respectively,  the  Temples  tf  the  Byzan- 
tines, and  of  the  Chalcedonians*.  The  latter 
seems  to  have  been  the  sanctuary  which  was 
held  in  supreme  veneration :  the  district  in 
which  it  stood  being  called,  by  way  of  eminence, 

TO  'IEPON.      This    appellation    is   noticed  by 

— ___^ *  i 

(1)  Voyage  d'dnacharse,  torn.  I. 

(2)  Hist.  Philos.  et  Polit.  du  Comm.  &c.  dans  la  Mer  Noire. 
(3)_Slrabon.  Geogr.  lib.vii.  p.  463.  ed.  Oxon. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  439 

Herodotus,  Demosthenes,  Polybius,  Arrian,  Proco-    CHAP. 
plus,  Mardanus,  and  by  Dionysius  of  Byzantium;  ^    -T  '_• 
some  of  whom   expressly  declare  that  it  was 
used  to  signify  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Urius* :  on 
which   account   writers  maintain,    that  it  was 
from  this  temple  Darius  surveyed  the  Euxine, 
as  mentioned  by  Herodotus;  but  Herodotus  does  Probable 

. ,,  Situation  of 

not  specify  the  name  of  the  fane,  whence  the  -»«*•«« 
prospect  was  afforded.     The  fact  is,  that  the  surveyed 
Hieron  was  not  a  single  temple,  but  a  town  and  *' 
a   port,  .  .containing   a   fane   of   great    sanctity 
within  its  district,  situate  upon  the  Asiatic  side 
of  the  Bosporus5.    "  The  Thracian  Bosporus"  ob^ 
serves  Poly  bins6,1  "  is  ended  at  a  place  called 
Hieron;    in   which   Jason,   at   his   return    from 
Colchis,  is  said  first  to  have  offered  sacrifice  to 


(4)  The  author  has  endeavoured  to  collect  and   compare   the  refe- 
rences ;  but  the  Reader  may  find  yet  other  authorities.     Herodot.  Mel- 
pom.  85  ;    Demosth.  in  Oral.  adv.  Polyclem,  et  in  al.  loc.  (fid.  Taylor 
in  Prerfat.  Comment,  ad  L.  Decemv.  p.  7>  tf*3i    Arrian.  Peripl.  Pont. 
Eux.  ad  finem  ;  Procop.  de  JEdif.  Justinian,  lib,  ix. ;  Martian.  Hera- 
cleot.  edit.  Oxon.;  Qeogr.  Vet.  Script.  Minor,  p.  69  ;  Polyb.  Hist.  Kb.  iv.j 
Dionysf.  Byzant.  apud  Gyll.  lib.  iii.  c.  5.     Of  this  number  Ariian  and 
Mardanus  state,    that  the  Hieron  was  so   called  from    the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Urius.     Dioni/sim  of  Byzantium  says,   it  was  a  fane,  built  by 
Phryxus,  in  his  voyage   to  Colchis.     It  is   not  easy  to   reconcile  the 
account  given  by  Herodotus  with  the  common  notions  of  the  situation  of 
the  temple,  or  with  the  position  of  the  modern  town  ofJoro,  or  Joron, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  ;  since,  according  to  Herodotus,  the  Hieron, 
at  which  Darius  satf  might  have  been  one  of  the  Cyanean  Isles. 

(5)  Its  name  is  still  preserved  in  the  appellation  of  a  modern  town, 
Joro,  or  Joron. 

(6)  Polybius,  lib.  iv.  c.5.    The  passage  is  given  from  Hampton. 


440  THROUGH  THE  THRACIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,    the  twelve  Gods.     This  place,  although  situate 
in  Asia,  is  not  far  removed  from  Europe ;  being 
distant  about  twelve  stadia  only  from  the  Temple 
of  Serapis,  which  stands  opposite  to  it,  upon  the 
coast  of  Thrace"    Marcianus  also  calls  Hieron  a 
country  or  district1.     A  due  attention  to  the 
features    of  the    country    may    now    perhaps 
ascertain  the  position  of  the  Eastern  monarch. 
If  he  were  then  placed  near  to  any  temple,  or 
upon  any  point  of  land,  called  Hieron,  low  down 
towards  the  shore  of  the  Strait,  he  could  not 
have  been  gratified  with  the  prospect  he  sought 
to  obtain :  nor  does  the  text  of  Herodotus  admit 
of  such  an  interpretation3.     In  our  return  from 
the     Cijanean     Isles,    we    landed    opposite    to 
Biiyuchdery,  upon  the  Argyronian  Cape3,  in  order 
to  examine  the  particular  eminence  still  bearing 
the  name,  mentioned  by  Dionysius  Byzantinus*, 
of  the  "  Bed  of  the  Giant"  or  "  Bed  of  Hercules" 
We  there  found  the  capital  of  a  very  antient 
column,  of  the  Ionic  order,  not  less  than  two 
feet   and   an  half  in   diameter.     It  had   been 


(1)  Marciani  Heracleotae  Peripl.  p.  69.  ed.  Ozon.  1698. 

(2)  'E^Sftitai  &  \vl  THI  'IEPHI  Maura  rov  llavTot  i'ovru  af/o^uraV    ",4nd 
sitting  at  the  Hieron,    he   beheld  the  admirable  Pontus."      Herodot. 
Mclpom.  8i>. 

(3)  SeeBanduri  Imperium  Orientate:  Anaplus  Bosp.  Thrac.  ex  indag. 
P.  Gyll.  Sfc. 

(4)  "  Herculis  KAINH,    hoc  est,    Leetus."     Dianys.  2Ji/zanl.  apud 
Gy Ilium,  lib.  iii.  c.  6. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  441 

hollowed ;  and  it  now  serves  as  a  vase,  near  to 
the  residence  of  the  Dervish,  who  relates  the 
idle  superstitions  of  the  country  concerning  the 
mountain,  and  the  giant  supposed  to  be  there 
buried*.  It  is  therefore  evident,  that  a  temple 
of  considerable  magnitude  once  stood  in  this 
situation;  because  the  present  inhabitants  would 
never  have  been  at  the  pains  to  convey  such  a 
mass  of  marble  to  this  place6,  although  they  may 
have  thence  removed  all  the  other  materials  of 
the  temple,  by  rolling  them  down  the  mountain. 
Upon  this  spot  the  author  made  a  sketch  of  the 
opening  into  the  Black  Sea ;  shewing  the  European 


(5)  The  fables  which  have  been  related  of  the  Giant  and  his  sepul- 
chre had  their  origin  in  the  annals  of  more  remote  history.     They 
refer  to  the  story  of  Amycus,  king  of  Bithynia,  (called  by  Valerius 
Flaecus,  Argonaut,  lib.  iv.  r.200.  'thed'an*,')  who  was  killed  by  Pollux, 
the  son  of  Jupiter.     His  tomb  is  mentioned  by  antient  authors  ;  and  if 
tradition  have  preserved  the  memory  of  the  place  where  it  was  situate, 
the  origin  of  the  temple  will  be  thereby  illustrated. 

(6)  During  a  subsequent  visit  to  the  same  place,  the  author  was 
accompanied  by  Mons.  Preaux,  artist  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Spencer 
Smith,  late  Minister  at  the  Porte.    Mons.  Preaux  made  a  drawing  of 
this  Ionic  capital ;  which  is  now  in  Mr.  Smith's  possession.     Although 
the  discovery  of  such  a   relic,   so    situate,   may   serve  to  prove  the 
former  existence  of  a  temple  there,  it  by  no  means  necessarily  follows 
that  this  was  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Urius:  the  temples  of  Jupiter  were 
generally,  if  not  universally,  constructed  of  the  Doric  order.     At  the 
same  time,  the  text  of  Marcianus  decidedly  shews  that  Hieron  was  a 
name  given  to  a  whole  district  on  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Bosporus,  and 
not  merely  to  a  single  temple.    The  temple  of  Jupiter  Urius  stood  in 
the  country  called  Hieron;  as  appears  by  the  following  passage  of  that 
author.      Ki7rat  %a£itt  'li^'av  x.a.\ovpinv,  iv  u  na;  ttrri  A/of  Ov^itv  V( 

put;.     Marc.  Herac.  p.  C9. 


442  THROUGH  THE  THRACIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,    light-house  upon  the  point  of  the  Lycians,  at  the 

.\  i .  B 

extremity  of  the  Canal ;  the  ruins  of  an  antient 
castle  on  the  Asiatic  side,  the  ARX  MUNITA,  men- 
tioned by  Dionysius  Byzantius,  as  being  situate 
above  the  temple  built  by  Phryxus ;  and  a  small 
port  in  front,  below  the  castle,  perhaps  antiently 
that  of  Hieron,  mentioned  by  the  same  writer, 
as  the  common  haunt  of  all  persons  navigating 
the  Bosporus1.  If  the  appearance  of  the  Euxine, 
and  of  the  mouth  of  the  Bosporus,  were  not 
delineated  from  the  precise  spot  whence  they 
were  viewed  by  Darius,  it  is  certain  that  the 
prospect  he  surveyed  was  nearly  the  same. 
The  temples,  indeed,  belonging  to  the  Hiera* 
have  disappeared,  but  the  features  of  Nature  are 
unaltered ;  the  same  tremendous  chasm  which 
once  conducted  the  waters  of  an  immense 
ocean  to  overwhelm  the  territories  of  Antient 
Greece,  now  affords  a  passage  to  the  fleets  of 
the  world,  bearing  the  tributary  wealth  of 
nations;  while  its, aspect,  then  so  fearful,  pre- 
sents every  assemblage  that  can  captivate  the 
eye.  The  Bosporus  of  Thrace,  in  whatsoever 

(1)  See  the  Quarto  Edition. 

(2)  "  Post  Chelas  esse  nuncupatiim  Hieron,  hocestFanum  aPhryxo 
Nephelse  et  Athamantis  filio  aedificatum,  cum  navigaret  ad  Colchos,  k 
Byzantiis  quidem  possessum  sed  commune  receptaculum  omnium  navi- 
gantium.     Supra  templum  est  murus  in  orbem  procedens.     In  hoc  est 
Arx  munita,   quain   Galatae   populati  sunt,   ut  alia  pleraque  Asiae." 
Dimiysius  Byzantius,  ap.  Gyll.  lib.  iii.  c.  5. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  443 

point  of  view  it  is  considered,  is  unequalled  in  CHAP. 
the  interest  it  excites ;  whether  with  reference  i  -T-_' 
to  the  surprising  nature  of  its  origin;  to  its 
antient  history ;  to  the  matchless  beauty  of  its 
scenery ;  to  its  extraordinary  animal  produc- 
tions ;  to  the  number  of  rare  plants,  blooming 
amidst  its  towering  precipices ;  to  its  fleets  and 
gondolas,  towns  and  villages,  groves  and  gar- 
dens, the  coemeteries  of  the  dead,  and  the  walks 
of  the  living ;  to  its  painted  villas,  virandas, 
flowery  terraces,  domes,  towers,  quays,  and 
mouldering  edifices :  all  these,  in  their  turn, 
excite  and  gratify  curiosity;  while  the  dress 
and  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  contrasting  the 
splendid  costume  and  indolence  of  the  East 
with  the  plainer  garb  and  the  activity  of  the 
West,  offer  to  the  stranger  an  endless  source  of 
reflection  and  amusement. 

It  was  near  midnight  when  we  returned  from  Approach 

,1  •  •  /~v        J.T.        r  n  •  to  C'mttan- 

this  excursion.  On  the  following  morning  we  tinopie, 
determined  to  leave  the  Moderate,  and  proceed 
to  Constantinople,  in  one  of  the  gondolas  that  ply 
in  the  Canal  for  hire.  These  boats  are  more 
beautiful  than  the  gondolas  of  Venice ;  and  they 
are  often  very  richly  ornamented,  although  they 
have  not  any  awning.  They  are  swifter  than 
any  of  our  boats  upon  the  Thames:  this  fact  was 
ascertained  by  an  actual  cpntest,  between  a 


444  THROUGH  THE  THRACIAN  BOSPORUS, 

CHAP,  party  of  Turkish  gondoliers  in  their  own  boat, 
and  a  set  of  Thames  watermen  in  one  of  their 
wherries.  We  passed  the  gorge  of  the  Canal, 
remarkable  as  being  the  site  of  the  bridge 
constructed  by  Darius  for  the  passage  of  his 
numerous  army;  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery 
increasing  as  we  approached  the  capital.  The 
sides  of  the  Canal  appeared  covered  with 
stately  pavilions,  whose  porticoes,  reaching  to 
the  water's  edge,  were  supported  by  pillars  of 
marble;  when,  all  at  once,  the  prospect  of 
Constantinople,  with  the  towns  of  Scutary  and 
Pera,  opened  upon  us,  and  filled  our  minds 
with  such  astonishment  and  admiration,  that 
the  impression  can  never  be  effaced.  Since 
nothing  can  equal  the  splendour  of  such  a  scene, 
it  is  impossible,  by  comparison,  to  give  any 
description  of  what  we  saw.  The  Reader,  by 
the  aid  of  his  imagination,  combining  all  his 
ideas  of  Oriental  pomp  with  the  utmost  magni- 
ficence of  Nature,  may  endeavour  to  supply  the 
deficiency1.  The  Turkish  squadron,  recently 
returned  from  a  summer  cruise,  were,  when  we 
arrived,  at  anchor  off  the  point  of  the  seraglio. 
One  of  the  ships,  a  three-decker,  constructed 


())  The  Bay  of  Naples  has  often  been  compared  with  that  of 
Constantinople,  but  improperly;  because  the  natural  beauties  of  the 
former  are  of  a  different  description  ;  and  the  external  appearance  of 
the  city  of  Naples,  viewed  from  the  sea,  is  very  inferior  in  grandeur. 


TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  445 

by  a  French  engineer  of  the  name  of  Le  Brun,    CHAP. 

XI 

surprised  us  by  its  extraordinary  beauty.     Its  «.     -^'-  _• 
guns  were  all  of  polished  brass;  and  its  immense 
ensign,  reaching  to  the  surface  of  the  water, 
consisted  entirely  of  silk. 

After  what  has  been   said  of  the   external  Disgusting 
grandeur  of  this  wonderful  city,  the  Reader  is 


perhaps  ill  prepared  for  a  description  of  the  6 
interior;  the  horror,  the  wretchedness,  and 
filth  of  which  are  not  to  be  conceived.  Its 
streets  are  narrow,  dark,  ill  paved,  and  full  of 
holes  and  ordure.  In  the  most  abominable 
alleys  of  London,  or  of  Paris,  there  is  nothing  so 
revolting.  They  more  resemble  the  interior  of 
common  sewers  than  public  streets.  The 
putrefying  carcases  of  dead  dogs,  with  immense 
heaps  of  filth  and  mud,  obstruct  a  passage 
through  them.  Owing  to  the  inequalities  and 
holes  in  the  narrow  causeway,  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  proceed  without  danger  of  putting 
an  ancle  out  of  joint.  We  landed  at  Galata,  in  Arrival  at 
the  midst  of  dunghills,  where  a  number  of  large, 
lean,  mangy  dogs,  some  with  whelps  wallowing 
in  mire,  and  all  of  them  covered  with  dirt, 
were  sprawling  or  feeding.  The  appearance 
of  a  Frank2  instantly  raises  an  alarm  among 

('2)  The  name  applied  to  every  Christian  in  the  Levant,  of  whatsoever 

nation. 


446  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

these  animals,  who  never  bark  at  the  Turks; 
and,  as   they  were  roused  by  our  coming  on 
shore,  the  noise  became  so  great,  that  we  could 
not  hear  each  other   speak.     To  this  clamour 
were  added  the  bawlings   of  a  dozen  porters, 
vociferously  proffering  their  services,   and  be- 
ginning to  squabble  with  each  other  as  fast  as 
any  of  them  obtained  a  burden.     At  length  we 
were  able  to  move  on ;  but  hi  such  confined, 
stinking,  and  yet  crowded  lanes,  that  we  almost 
despaired  of  being  able  to  proceed.    The  swarm 
of  dogs,    howling    and    barking,    continually 
accompanied  us,  and  some  of  the  largest  endea- 
voured to  bite  us.     When  we  reached  the  little 
inn  of  Pera,  where  a  few  small  rooms,  like  the 
divisions  in  a  rabbit-hutch,  had  been  prepared 
for  our  reception,  we  saw  at  least  fifty  of  these 
mongrels  collected  around  the  door  in  the  yard, 
like  wolves  disappointed  of  their  prey.    The  late 
storms  had  unroofed  several  of  the  houses  in 
Pera:   that  in   which  we  were  to   lodge  was 
among  the  number:  one  corner  of  it  had  been 
carried  off  by  the  wind ;  so  that,  without  climbing 
to  the  top  for  a  view  of  the  city,  we  commanded, 
through  its  dilapidated  walls,  a  fine  prospect  of 
the   Port  of  the   GOLDEN*    HORN*,   and   part  of 
CONSTANTINOPLE.    Pera  had  recently  suffered, 
in  consequence   of  a  conflagration  which  had 
nearly  consumed  every  house    in   the  place. 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  447 

There  was  reason  to  believe  some  improvement  CHAP. 
would  take  place  during  its  restoration;  but  we  «•  -T-  - 
found  it  rising  from  its  ashes,  like  a  new  phoenix, 
without  the  slightest  deviation  from  the  form 
and  appearance  of  its  parent.  The  exception 
only  of  one  or  two  houses,  formerly  of  wood, 
and  rebuilt  with  stone,  might  be  noticed;  but  all 
the  rest  were  as  ugly,  as  inconvenient,  and  as 
liable  to  danger,  as  before  ;  and  were  it  not  for 
a  few  workmen  employed  in  fronting  the  houses 
of  the  merchants,  no  stranger  would  have  dis- 
covered that  any  calamity  had  befallen  the  place. 


Considering  the  surprising  extent  of  the  city 
and  suburbs  of  Constantinople,  the  notions  en-  Commerce. 
tertained  of  its  commerce,  and  the  figure  it  has 
long  made  in  history,  it  might  be  expected  that 
all  the  conveniences,  if  not  the  luxuries,  of  life 
would  be  there  found.  Previous  to  an  arrival, 
if  inquiry  be  made  of  merchants,  and  other 
persons  who  have  visited  Constantinople,  as  to 
the  commodities  of  its  markets,  the  answer  is 
almost  always  characterized  by  exaggeration. 
They  will  affirm,  that  every  thing  a  stranger  may 
require  can  be  purchased  in  Constantinople,  as 
easily  as  in  London,  in  Paris,  or  in  Vienna: 
whereas,  if  truth  be  told,  hardly  any  one  article, 
good  in  its  kind,  can  be  procured.  Let  a 


448  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

CHAP,  foreigner  visit  the  bazar1,  properly  so  called, 
he  will  see  nothing  but  slippers,  clumsy  boots  of 
bad  leather,  coarse  muslins,  pipes,  tobacco, 
coffee,  cooks'  shops,  drugs,  flowers,  roots, 
second-hand  pistols,  poignards,  and  the  worst 
manufactured  wares  in  the  world.  In  PERA, 
Greeks  and  Italians  are  supposed  to  supply  all 
the  necessities  of  the  Franks :  and  here,  it  is  true, 
a  few  pitiful  stalls  are  to  be  seen;  but  all  the 
wares  are  dear  and  bad.  Suppose  a  stranger 
to  arrive  from  a  long  journey,  in  want  of  clothes 
for  his  body,  furniture  for  his  lodgings,  books  or 
maps  for  his  instruction  and  amusement;  paper, 
pens,  ink,  cutlery,  shoes,  hats ;  in  short,  those 
articles  which  may  be  found  in  almost  every 
city  of  the  world :  he  will  obtain  few  or  none 
of  them  in  Constantinople,  unless  they  be  of  a 
quality  so  inferior  as  to  render  them  incapable 
of  answering  the  purposes  for  which  they  were 
made.  The  few  commodities  exposed  for  sale, 
are  either  exports  from  England,  unfit  for  any 
other  market,  or,  which  is  worse,  German  and 
Dutch  imitations  of  English,  manufacture.  The 
woollen  cloths  are  -hardly  good  enough  to  cover 
the  floors  of  their  own  counting-houses ;  every 
article  of  cutlery  and  hardware  is  detestable ; 

(l)  Bazar  is  the  Turkish  word  for  Market. 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  449 

the  leather  used  for  shoes  and  boots  is  so  bad,    CHAP, 

XI. 

that  it  can  scarcely  be  wrought ;  hats,  hosiery,  <     »•   > 
linen,  buttons,  buckles,  are  all  of  the  same  cha-    % 
racter ;    of  the   worst  quality,  and  yet  of  the 
highest  price.     But  there  are  other  articles  of 
merchandize,  to  which  we  have  been  accustomed 
to  annex  the  very  name  of  Turkey,  as  if  they 
were  the  peculiar  produce  of  that  country;  and 
these,  at  least,  a  foreigner  expects  to  find ;  but 
not  one  of  them  can  be  had.     Ask  for  a  Turkish 
carpet,  you  are  told  you  must  send  for  it  to 
Smyrna;    for  Greek  wines,  to  the  Archipelago; 
for  a  Turkish  sabre,  to  Damascus;  for  the  sort  of 
stone    expressly    denominated   turquoise,    they 
know  not  what  you  mean ;  for  red  leather,  they 
import  it  themselves  from  Russia  or  from  Africa : 
still  you  are  said  to  be  in  the  centre  of  the  com- 
merce of  the  globe ;  and  this  may  be  true  with 
reference  to  the  freight  of  vessels  passing  the 
Straits,  which  is  never  landed.     View  the  ex- 
terior of  Constantinople,  and  it  seems  the  most 
opulent  and  flourishing  city  in  Europe :  examine 
its  interior,   and   its  miseries  and  deficiencies 
are  so  striking,  that  it  must  be  considered  the 
meanest  and  poorest  metropolis  of  the  world* 
The  ships  crowding  its  ports  have  no  connec- 
tion with  its  welfare :  they  are,   for  the  most 
part,  French,  Venetian,  Ragusan,  Sclavonian,  and 
Grecian  vessels,  bound  to,  or  from,  the  Meditcr- 


450  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

ranean;  exchanging  the  produce  of  their  own 
countries,  for  the  rich  harvests  of  Poland;  for 
the  salt,  honey,  and  butter  of  the  Ukraine ;  for 
the  hides,  tallow,  hemp,  furs,  and  metals  of 
Russia  and  Siberia:  but  the  whole  of  this  ex- 
change is  transacted  in  other  ports,  without  any 
interference  on  the  part  of  Turkey.  Never  was 
there  a  people  in  possession  of  such  advantages, 
who  either  knew  or  cared  so  little  for  their 
enjoyment.  Under  a  wise  government,  the 
inhabitants  of  Constantinople  might  obtain  the 
riches  of  all  the  empires  of  the  earth.  Situate 
as  they  are,  it  cannot  be  long  before  other 
nations,  depriving  them  of  such  important 
sources  of  wealth,  will  convert  to  better 
purposes  the  advantages  they  have  so  long 
neglected. 


ADDITIONAL   NOTES. 


PAGE  100,  line  10.  "  The  natives  of  the  Crimea  still 
call  the  toivn  of  Kertchy  Vospor,  and  the  straits  Vospor, 
although  they  write  the  word  Bospor."3  —  The  preserva- 
tion of  this  name,  as  applied  to  the  town  of  Kertchy  by 
the  present  inhabitants,  settles  the  antient  geography  of 
the  Cimmerian  Straits,  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner; 
as  it  serves,  with  a  remarkable  passage  of  Pliny,  to  prove 
that  Kertchy  was  actually  PANTICAP^UM,  which  was 
also  called  BOSPHORUS  :  and  having  once  established  the 
position  of  Panticapceum,  it  necessarily  follows,  that  Taman, 
upon  the  opposite  Asiatic  shore,  was  the  antient  PHANA,- 
GORIA.  These  are  Pliny's  words,  in  the  passage  to  which 
allusion  is  made  :  "  Ad  Panticapceum,  quod  aliqui  Bos- 
phorum  vacant"  (Vid.  Hist.  Nat.  lib.  iv.  c.  12.  torn.  I. 
p.  227.  Lugd.  Bat.  1635.)  In  Count  Potocki's  Map  of  the 
CRIMEA,  the  modern  name  is  not  Kertchy,  but  Vospor. 


P.  290.  Note  (3).  "  See  the  Additional  Notes" 
"  Chersonesum  seu  Cherronesum,  Corsunum,  vel  Chersonam, 
Sari  Germenum,  quasi  flavam  arcem,  Turcae  urbern  earn 
vocarunt  :  nam  solum  quasi  flavum  ille  tractus  habet.  Quae 
quod  superba,  dives,  delicata  et  clara  quondam  Graecac  gentis 
colonia  fuerit,  universaeque  peninsulas  urbs  antiquissima, 
frequens,  magnifica,  portuque  nobilissima  extiterit,  admirandae 
ruinae  illius  manifeste  testantur.  In  extremitate  isthmi  illius, 
quern  parvam  Cherronesum  Strabo  vocat,  et  in  ostio  ipso 
portus  oris  angusti,  ac  per  universum  isthmum  sicut  latitude 
ripae  utriusque  maris  est,  urbs  murum  altissimum  et  magnum 
turresque  plurimas  et  maximas  ex  secto  et  grandi  lapide 
erectas  nunc  etiam  habet,  ac  tota  mari  exposita  existit. 
Aquarum  ductus,  qui  milliaribus  quatuor  cuniculis  ex  petris 
VOL.  I.  2  G 


452  ADDITIONAL   NOTES. 

excisis  in  urbe  ducebantur,  in  quibus  nunc  etiam  aqua 
purissima  est,  ad  urbis  ipsius  mcenia  conspiciuntur.  Est  in 
eo  loco  unde  rivulus  ilk  delabitur  pagus  quidam  non  ignobilis, 
et  nonproculin  ripamaris,  in  monte  saxoso,  Graecum  monas- 
terium,  Sancti  Georgii  solemne ;  anniversaria  devotio  Graecis 
Christianis  qui  nunc  in  Taurica  sunt  reliqui,  in  magna  fre- 
quentia  ibi  fieri  solet.  Urbs  ilia  a  multis  non  solum  annis, 
verum  sasculis,  et  hominibus  et  habitatoribus  prorsus  vacua, 
funditus  diruta  ac  in  vastitatem  redacta  est.  Muri  et  turres 
integrae  adhuc  et  miro  opere  sumptuose  factae  conspiciuntur. 
Principum  Regia  vel  domus  in  ea  isthmi  parte,  et  urbis 
mcenibus,  turribus,  et  portis  magnificis  existit.  Verum  a 
Turcis  insignes  columnae  marmoreae  et  serpentinae,  quarum 
intus  adhuc  loca  apparent,  et  grandiores  lapides,  spoliatae  et 
per  mare  ad  sedes  eorum  in  aedificia  publica  et  privata  depor- 
tatae  sunt.  Idcirco  ad  majorem  ruinam  ea  urbs  pervenit : 
non  aedium  et  templorum  ne  vestigia  quidem  in  ea  visuntur. 
Urbis  aedificia  humi  prostrata  et  solo  acquata  sunt.  Monas- 
terium  Graecum  maximumque  in  urbe  est  reliquum;  parietes 
templi  apparent  quidem,  sed  testitudinem  non  habent,  et 
ornamenta  sedificii  ejus,  quae  ibi  erant  insignia,  diruta  et 
-spoliata  sunt.  Ex  illo  monasterio  duas  portas  aeris  Corinthii, 
quas  Graecorum  presbyteri  Regias  portas  vocant,  et  imagines 
insigniores,  Graecos  aliquos  ad  Volodimirum  magnum  Russo- 
•rum  seu  Kioviensium  Principem  ea  tempestate  praedae  loco 
Kioviam  deportavisse,  postmodum  vero  a  Boleslao  secundo 
rege  Poloniae  Kiovia  Gnesnam  praedae  itidem  loco,  quae  in 
templi  maximi  porta  nunc  etiam  ibi  visuntur,  delatas  esse, 
Russorum  et  Polonorum  annales  memoriae  prodidere  ;  Volo- 
dimirum Principum  loanni  Zemiscae  Constantinopolitano 
Imperatori  earn  urbem  quondam  eripuisse  ;  verum  Basilii  et 
Constantini  Imperatorum  Anna  sorore  in  matrimonio  ducta, 
et  sacro  fonte  ritus  Graeci  in  eodem  monasterio  a  Patriarcha 
quodam-initiato,  restituisse.  Quod  et  in  hodiernum  usque 
diem  in  locis  iisdem  a  Christianis  Graecis,  quorum  obscura  et 


ADDITIONAL    NOTES.  453 

parvae  admodum  reliquae  supersunt,  praedicatur.  Ante  urbem 
promontorium  existere,  et  Parthenium,  id  est,  virgineum 
appellatum  esse,  Deaeque  illius  aedem  ac  statuam  habere.  Ac 
earn  urbem  liberam  fuisse,  propriisque  legibus  vixisse; 
verum  a  Barbaris  direptam,  eoque  necessitatis  deductam  esse, 
Eupatore  Mithridate  praesule  sibi  delecto  adversus  Barbar'os 
bellum  gessisse,  et  tanta  spe  erectum  exercitum  in  Chersone- 
sum  misisse,  ut  et  Scythis  pariter  Strabone  teste  intulerit,  et 
Sciluri  liberos  quinquaginta  (ut  Possidonus  scribit)  captives 
habuerit,  et  a  Perisade  prsefecto  loci  ditione  accepta  Bospho 
potitus  sit  :  Ac  inde  ex  eo  tempore  in  hunc  usque  diem  Cher- 
sonesitarum  civitatem  Bosporanis  Regulis  subjectam  fuisse  olim 
idem  Strabo  asserit."  Descrip.  Tartar,  pp.  258  —  261. 


P.  309.  Note  (2).  "  See  the  Additional  Notes,"  &c^— 
Sidagios  &  Graecis,  a  Genuensibus  vero  Sudacum,  afx  et 
civitas  ilia  dicta  fuit.  Tartaris  prorsus  incognita  est.  In 
monte  altissimo,  saxoso  et  peramplo,  ad  mare  sito,  in  summi- 
tate  montis,  arcem  superiorem,  alteram  mediam,  tertiam  vero 
inferiorem  arcem,  muro  et  turribus  cinctas  et  munitas  Graeci 
seu  Genuenses  Itali  condidere.  Templa  Grasca  ex  gran- 
dioribus  saxis  infinita  esse,  et  quasi  sacella  pauca  admodum, 
nonnulla  integra  visuntur,  plurima  vero  in  ruinam  versa  et 
humi  jam  prostrata  jacent.  Superbi,  discordes  et  desides 
Grseci  4  Genuensibus  Italis  fracti  et  debilitati  civitatem  earn 
amiserant.  Non  contemnenda  Genuensium  vestigia  Graecis 
multo  clariora  ibi  conspiciuntun  At  insignem  locumque 
quondam,  ut  ex  ruinis  videre  licet,  extitisse,  4  Christianis 
Graecis,  quorumque  parvae  admodum  reliquiae  ibi  sunt,  me- 
moratur:  Graecorum  gentem  eo  discordiarum  et  inimicitiarum 
devenisse,  quod  familiae,  quae  dissidiis  laborabant,  ne  devo- 
tionem  quidem  publicam  fieri  eique  interesse  volebaint. 
Propterea  templa  ilia  infinita  quam  plurimi  sedificavere,  quaB 
aliquot  centena  ibi  extitisse  Christian!  perhibent.  Templa 
tria  maxima  Catholica,  domus,  muri,  portae,  ac  turres  insignen, 
2  G  2 


454  ADDITIONAL    NOTES. 

«um  textilibus  et  insigniis  Genuensium  in  arce  inferior? 
visuntur.  A  Metropolita  quodam  viro  Graeco  et  honesta, 
qui  ex  insulis  Grascis  ad  visitandos  presbyteros  illos  turn  eo 
advenerat,  et  hospitio  me  exceperat,  accepi,  quod  cum  im- 
manissima  gens  Turcarum  earn  civitatem  ingenti  maritimo 
exercitu  oppugnasset,  a  Genuensibus  fortiter  et  animose  ilia 
defenderetur.  Verura  cum  obsidionera  diuturnam  ac  famem 
Genucnses  diutius  ferre,  nee  impetum  tarn  numerosi  exercitus 
Turcarum  sustinere  amplius  possent,  in  maximum  templum 
illud,  quod  adhuc  ibi  integrum  est,  centeni  aliquot,  vel,  ut 
ille  asserebat,  mille  fere  viri  egregii  sese  receperaat,  per  dies 
aliquot  in  arce  inferior!,  in  quam  Turcae  irruperant,  fertiter  et 
animose  sese  defendentes,  insigni  et  memorabili  Turcarum 
strage  edita.  Tandem  in  templo  illo  universi  concidere. 
Templi  illius  portae  et  fenestrae  jl  Turcis  muro  impletae. 
Caesorum  cadavera  in  eum  usque  diem  insepulta  jacent.  In 
id  templum  ne  accederem,  &  Caphensi  Serriaco  quondam 
Turca,  quern  in  ea  arce  perpetuum  ille  habet,  ego  prohibitus 
sum.  Portorium  non  ignobile  civitatis  ejus  fuit.  Vineae  et 
pomaria,  quae  ad  duo  et  amplius  milliaria  extenduntur,  ferti- 
lissima  &  Caphensibus,  Turcis,  Judaeis,  et  Christianis  nunc 
etiam  ibi  coluntur.  Nam  universae  Tauricae  vinum  optimum 
ibi  nascitur.  Rivis  amcenissimis,  qui  ex  altissimis  et  mediis 
montibus  et  sylvis,  quae  admodum  frequentes  ibi  sunt,  de- 
currunt,  universus  ille  tractus  abundat." 

Descrip.  Tartar,  pp.269—  271. 


P.  315.  Note  (3).  "  See  also  his  further  Observations," 
—  "  Putant  autem  aliqui  fossam  hanc  in  Tauricae  isthmo 
factam,  eo  nimirum  perfosso,  ut  insulam  earn  faceret.  Sed 
quum  nemo  sit,  qui  id  pro  certo  doceat,  non  possum  et  ego 
dicere,  quae  aut  qualis  ea  fossa  fuerit,  a  qua  nomen  hoc 
desumpserint,  an  nimirum  ad  fortificationem  aut  munitionem, 
an  vero  ad  irrigandum  solum  ducta  sit  :  neque  quisquam  mihi 
hactenus  (quamvis  diligenter  inquirenti)  occurrit,  qui  certi 


ADDITIONAL    NOTES.  455 

quid  hac  de  re  attulerit.  Neque  ego  etiarn  adduci  possum  ut 
credam  earn  hanc  esse  fossam,  cujus  Herodotus  libro  quarto 
meminit :  quod  nimirum  Scythis  a  longa  et  diuturna  ilia  Asiae 
et  Mediae  expeditione  redeuntibus,  ac  uxoribus  tantae  absentee 
taedio  servis  sibi  conjugio  junctis,  ex  quibus  numerosara 
juventutem  susceperant,  inventis,  bello  earn  adorti  sint,  in 
quo  haec  ad  sui  defensionem  a  Tauricis  montibus  usque  ad 
paludem  Maeotidem  latam  fossam  duxerit:  Nam  si  nomen  ipsis 
hinc  dandum,  necesse  erit  ut  ipsorum  ea  Tartarorum  opus 
fuerit;  alias  enim  nescio  quomodo  ab  eo  antique  opere 
cognominari  ita  possint.  Verum  si  sit  qui  me  informet,  nullam 
aliam  in  ea  provincia  esse  fossam  notabilem,  quam  hanc  a 
Scytharum  nothis  ductam,  assentirer  forte.  In  medio  autem 
relinquo,  hoc  saltern  addens,  quod  fossa  haec  a  servorum  (qui 
cceci  plerique  erant)  filiis  ac  Scytharum  nothis  ducta,  Oriza 
nominata  fuerit,  fortassis  a  fine:  Ideo  enim  a  montibus  Tauricis 
qui  in  Scythia  erant  ( e  qua  illi  egressi  sunt  qui  Chersoneso  de 
qua  nunc  agimus,  nomen  dederunt)  usque  ad  paludem  Mae- 
otidem earn  deduxerunt,  ut  ea  regione,  quae  Chersonesus 
non  erat,  domum  redeuntes  dominos  excluderent." 
pp.  224-,  225. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 

FIELD-MARSHAL    COUNT    ALEXANDER    VASSILIAVITCH 

SUVOROFV 

"  Discourse  under  the  Trigger  ;* " 

(MOST  LITERALLY  TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  RUSSIAN,) 

Being  a  Series  o/INSTRUCTIONS,  drawn  up  by  himself,  for  the  Use  of 
the  Army  under  his  Command,  after  the  Turkish  War;  and  since 
transmitted,  by  order  of  the  Russian  Government,  to  every  Regiment 
in  the  Service. — It  is  commonly  called  SUVOROF'S  CATECHISM. 


"  DISCOURSE  UNDER  THE  TRIGGER." 

[The  General  it  supposed  to  be  impeding  the  Line,  and  addressing  the  Troopt.] 

HEELS  close! — Knees  strait! — A  soldier  must 
stand  like  a  dart! — I  see  the  fourth  —  the  fifth 
I  don't  see! 

(1)  This  is  the  proper  method  of  writing  his  name.     The  Russians 
frequently  pronounce  the  O  as  an  A ;  hence  the  cause  of  Surnrqf's 
name  being  often  written  Suvarof  in  English.    Some,  more  errone- 
ously, write  it  Suwarrow. 

(2)  A  Discourse  under  the  Trigger,   is   the  harangue  made  by  a 
General  to  his  troops,  when  the  line  is  drawn  out,  and  the  soldiers 
rest  on  their  pieces. 


APPENDIX,    N'  I. 

A  soldier's  step  is  an  archine ! — in  wheeling,  an 
archine  and  a  half.  Keep  your  distances  well ! 

Soldiers,  join  elbows  in  front!  First  rank 
three  steps  from  the  second — in  marching,  two  I 

Give  the  drum  room ! 

Keep  your  ball  three  days, — it  may  happen, 
for  a  whole  campaign,  when  lead2  cannot  be  had! 

Fire  seldom — but  fire  sure! 

Push  hard  with  the  bayonet !  The  ball  will 
lose  its  way — the  bayonet  never !  The  ball  is  a 
fool — the  bayonet  a  hero ! 

Stab  once !  and  off  with  the  Turk  from  the 
bayonet !  Even  when  he's  dead,  you  may  get  a 
scratch  from  his  sabre. 

If  the  sabre  be  near  your  neck,  dodge  back 
one  step,  and  push  on  again. 

Stab  the  second! — stab  the  third!  A  hero 
will  stab  half-a-dozen. 

Be  sure  your  ball's  in  your  gun! 

If  three  attack  you,  stab  the  first,  fire  on  the 
second,  and  bayonet  the  third ! — this  seldom 
happens. 

In  the  attack,  there's  no  time  to  load  again. 

When  you  fire,  take  aim  at  their  guts ;  and 
fire  about  twenty  balls. — Buy  lead  from  your 
economy* — it  costs  little! 

(1)  The  Russian  archine  is  twenty-eight  inches. 

(2)  The  Russian  soldiers  buy  their  own  lead. 
l3)  The  treasury  of  the  Mess. 


APPENDIX,    N'  I.  459 

We  fire  sure — we  lose  not  one  ball  in  thirty : 
in  the  Light  Artillery  and  Heavy  Artillery,  not 
one  in  ten. 

If  you  see  the  match  upon  a  gun,  run  up  to 
it  instantly — the  ball  will  fly  over  your  head — 
The  guns  are  your's — the  people  are  your's! 
Down  with  'em,  upon  the  spot!  pursue  'em! 
stab  'em! — To  the  remainder  give  quarter — it's 
a  sin  to  kill  without  reason ;  they  are  men,  like 
you. 

Die  for  the  honour  of  the  Virgin  Mary — for 
your  Mother — for  all  the  Royal  Family  !  The 
Church  prays  for  those  that  die ;  and  those  who 
survive  have  honour  and  reward. 

Offend  not  the  peaceable  inhabitant !  he  gives 
us  meat  and  drink — the  soldier  is  not  a  robber. 
Booty  is  a  holy  thing !  If  you  take  a  camp,  it 
is  all  your's !  if  you  take  a  fortress,  it  is  all 
your's !  At  hmael,  besides  other  things,  the 
soldiers  shared  gold  and  silver  byhandfuls;  and 
so  in  other  places :  but,  without  order,  never 
go  to  booty ! 

A  battle  in  the  field  has  three  modes  of  attack : 

1.     On  the  Wing, 

which  is  weakest.     If  a  wing  be  covered  by 
wood,  it  is  nothing ;  a  soldier  will  get  through. 

(4)  The  name  given  by  the  Russians  to  the  Emprcts. 


460  APPENDIX,    N"  I. 

— Through  a  morass,  it  is  more  difficult. — 
Through  a  river  you  cannot  run.  All  kind  of 
entrenchment  you  may  jump  over. 

2.     The  Attach  in  the  Centre 
is  not  profitable — except   for  Cavalry,   to  cut 
them  in  pieces — or  else  they'll  crush  you. 

3.      The  Attack  behind 

is  very  good.  Only  for  a  small  corps  to  get 
round.  Heavy  battle  in  the  field,  against 
«  regular  troops.  In  squares,  against  Turks,  and 
not  in  columns.  It  may  happen,  against  Turks, 
that  a  square  of  5OO  men  will  be  compelled  to 
force  its  way  through  a  troop  of  6  or  7,000,  with 
the  help  of  small  squares  on  the  flank.  In  such 
a  case,  it  will  extend  in  a  column.  But  till  now 
we  had  no  need  of  it.  There  are  the  God- 
forgetting,  windy,  light-headed  Frenchmen  —  if  it 
should  ever  happen  to  us  to  march  against 
them,  we  must  beat  them  in  columns. 

The  Battle,  upon  Entrenchments,  in  the  Field. 
The  ditch  is  not  deep — the  rampart  is  not 
high — Down  in  the  ditch !  Jump  over  the  wall ' 
Work  with  your  bayonet!  Stab!  Drive!  Take 
them  prisoners !  Be  sure  to  cut  off  the  Cavalry, 
if  any  are  at  hand ! — At  Prague,  the  Infantry 
cut  off  the  Cavalry :  and  there  were  three-fold, 
and  more,  entrenchments,  and  a  whole  fortress ; 
therefore  we  attacked  in  columns. 


APPENDIX,    N°  I.  461 

The  Storm1. 

Break  down  the  fence !  Throw  wattles  over 
the  holes !  Run  as  fast  as  you  can !  Jump  over 
the  palisades!  Cast  your  fagots!  (into  the 
ditch.)  Leap  into  the  ditch!  Lay  on  your 
ladders !  Scour  the  columns !  Fire  at  their 
heads!  Fly  over  the  walls!  Stab  them  on  the 
ramparts !  Draw  out  your  line!  Put  a  guard  to 
the  powder-cellars !  Open  one  of  the  gates !  the 
Cavalry  will  enter  on  the  enemy.  Turn  his  guns 
against  him!  Fire  down  the  streets!  Fire 
briskly!  There's  no  time  to  run  after  them! 
When  the  order  is  given,  enter  the  town !  Kill 
every  enemy  in  the  streets!  Let  the  Cavalry 
hack  them !  Enter  no  houses !  Storm  them  in  the 
open  places,  where  they  are  gathering.  Take 
possession  of  the  open  places!  Put  a  capital 
guard !  Instantly  put  piquets  to  the  gates,  to 
the  powder-cellars,  and  to  the  magazines! 
When  the  enemy  has  surrendered,  give  him 
quarter  !  When  the  inner  wall  is  occupied,  go 
to  plunder ! 

There  are  three  military  talents : 

1 .     The  Coup  d'oeil. 
How  to  place  a  camp. — How  to  march. — 

(1)  It  is  impossible  in  this  translation,  consistently  with  fidelity, 
to  preserve  the  brevity  and  energy  of. the  original  Russian. 


462  APPENDIX,    N°  I. 

Where  to  attack — to  chase-— and  to  beat  the 
enemy. 

2.     Swiftness. 

The  Field  Artillery  must  march  half  or  a 
whole  verst  in  front,  on  the  rising  ground,  that 
it  may  not  impede  the  march  of  the  columns. 
When  the  column  arrives,  it  will  find  its  place 
again.  Down  hill,  and  on  even  ground,  let  it 
go  in  a  trot.  Soldiers  march  in  files,  or  four 
abreast,  on  account  of  narrow  roads,  streets, 
narrow  bridges,  and  narrow  passes  through 
marshy  and  swampy  places ;  and  only  when 
ready  for  attack,  draw  up  in  platoons,  to  shorten 
the  rear.  When  you  march  four  abreast,  leave 
a  space  between  the  companies.  Never 
slacken  your  pace !  Walk  on !  Play !  Sing  your 
songs !  Beat  the  drum !  When  you  have  broken 
off1  ten  versts,  the  first  company  cast  off  their 
load,  and  lie  down.  After  them,  the  second 
company;  and  so  forth,  one  after  the  other. 
But  the  first  never  wait  for  the  rest !  a  line  in 
columns  will,  on  the  march,  always  draw  out. 
At  four  abreast,  it  will  draw  out  one  and  a  half 
more  than  its  length.  At  two  abreast,  it  will 
draw  out  double.  A  line  one  verst  in  length 
will  draw  out  two — Two  versts  will  draw  out 


(l)  This  is  a  Russian  mode  of  expression.    To  proceed  ten  versts, 
they  say,  To  break  off  ten. 


APPENDIX,    N°  I.  463 

four;  so  the  first  companies  would  have  to 
wait  for  the  others  half-an-hour  to  no  purpose. 
After  the  first  ten  versts,  an  hour's  rest.  The 
first  division  that  arrived  (upon  the  coming  of 
the  second)  takes  up  its  baggage,  and  moves 
forward  ten  or  fifteen  paces ;  and  if  it  passes 
through  defiles,  on  the  march,  fifteen  or  twenty 
paces :  And  in  this  manner,  division  after 
division,  that  the  hindmost  may  get  rest.  The 
second  ten  versts,  another  hour's  rest,  or  more. 
If  the  third  distance  be  less  than  ten  versts,  halve 
it,  and  rest  three-quarters,  half,  or  a  quarter 
of  an  hour ;  that  the  children  *  may  soon  get  to 
their  kettles.  So  much  for  Infantry. 

The  Cavalry  marches  before.  They  alight 
from  their  horses,  and  rest  a  short  time ;  and 
march  more  than  ten  versts  in  one  stage,  that 
the  horses  may  rest  in  the  camp.  The  kettle- 
waggons  and  the  tent-waggons  go  on  before. 
When  the  brothers9  arrive,  the  kettle  is  ready. 
The  master  of  the  mess  instantly  serves  out  the 
kettle.  For  breakfast,  four  hours'  rest — and  six 
or  eight  hours  at  night,  according  as  the  road 
proves.  When  you  draw  near  the  enemy,  the 
kettle-waggons  remain  with  the  tent-waggons, 
and  wood  must  be  prepared  before-hand. 


(2)  Children,  and  J3rotf«m.— Appellations  given  by  Suvorof  to  his 
troops. 


464  APPENDIX,    X°  1. 

By  this  manner  of  marching,  soldiers  suffer 
no  fatigue.  The  enemy  does  not  expect  us. — 
He'  reckons  us  at  least  an  hundred  versts 
distant ;  and  when  we  come  from  far,  two  hun- 
dred, or  three  hundred,  or  more.  We  fall  all  at 
once  upon  him,  like  snow  on  the  head.  His  head 
turns.  Attack  instantly,  ivith  ivhatever  arrives1', 
with  what  God  sends.  The  Cavalry  instantly 
fall  to  work — hack  and  slash!  stab  and  drive! 
Cut  them  off!  Don't  give  them  a  moment's  rest. 

3.  Energy. 

One  leg  strengthens  the  other!  One  hand 
fortifies  the  other!  By  firing,  many  men  are 
killed !  The  enemy  has  also  hands ;  but  he 
knows  not  the  Russian  bayonet !  (alluding  to  the 
Turks.}  Draw  out  the  line  immediately ;  and 
instantly  attack  with  cold  arms!  (the  bayonet.) 
If  there  be  not  time  to  draw  out  the  line,  attack, 
from  the  defile,  the  Infantry,  with  the  bayonet ; 
and  the  Cavalry  will  be  at  hand. — If  there  be  a 
defile  for  a  verstf  and  cartridges  over  your 
head,  the  guns  will  be  your's!  Commonly, 
the  Cavalry  make  the  first  attack,  and  the 
Infantry  follow.  In  general,  Cavalry  must 
attack  like  Infantry,  except  in  swampy  ground; 


(1)  Jf^iatf.ver  arrives. —  Suvorof  began  the  attack  as  soon  as  the 
Colours  arrived,  even  if  he  had  but  half  a  regiment  advanced. 


APPENDIX,    N°  I.  465 

and  there  they  must  lead  their  horses  by  the 
bridle.  Cossacks  will  go  through  any.  thing. 
When  the  battle  is  gained,  the  Cavalry  pursue 
and  hack  the  enemy,  and  the  Infantry  are  not 
to  remain  behind.  In  two  files  there  is  strength 
— in  three  files,  strength  and  a  half*. — The  first 
tears — the  second  throws  down — and  the  third 
perfects  the  work. 

Rules  for  Diet. 

Have  a  dread  of  the  hospital!  German  physic 
stinks  from  afar,  is  good  for  nothing,  and  rather 
hurtful.  A  Russian  soldier  is  not  used  to  it. 
Messmates  know  where  to  find  roots,  herbs, 
and  pismires.  A  soldier  is  inestimable.  Take 
care  of  your  health !  Scour  the  stomach  when 
it  is  foul !  Hunger  is  the  best  medicine !  He 
who  neglects  his  men — if  an  officer,  arrest — if  a 
sub-officer,  lashes3',  and  to  the  private,  lashes, 
if  he  neglect  himself.  If  loose  bowels  want 
food,  at  sun-set  a  little  gruel  and  bread.  For 
costive  bowels,  some  purging  plant  in  warm 
water,  or  the  liquorice-root.  Remember,  Gen- 
tlemen, the  field-physic  of  Doctor  Belly potsky 4 ! — 

(2)  Strength  and  a  half. — A  common  mode  of  expression  in  Russia. 
Suvorqf  aimed  at  the  style  and  language  of  the  common  soldiers  :  this 
renders  his  composition  often  obscure. 

(3)  Lashes.'— The  literal  translation  of  the  original  is  Stinks. 

(4)  Professor  Pallas  supposed  this  to  have  heen  a  manual  of  medicine 
published  for  the  use  of  the  army. 


486  APPENDIX,    N'  I. 

In  hot  fevers,  eat  nothing,  even  for  twelve  days* 
— and  drink  your  soldiers'  quoss* — that's  a  sol- 
dier's physic.  In  intermittent  fevers,  neither 
eat  nor  drink.  It's  only  a  punishment  for 
neglect,  if  health  ensues.  In  hospitals,  the 
first  day  the  bed  seems  soft — the  second,  comes 
French  soup — and  the  third,  the  brother  is  laid 
in  his  coffin,  and  they  draw  him  away !  One 
dies,  and  ten  companions  round  him  inhale  his 
expiring  breath.  In  camp,  the  sick  and  feeble 
are  kept  in  huts,  and  not  in  villages  ;  there  the 
air  is  purer.  Even  without  an  hospital,  you 
must  not  stint  your  money  for  medicine,  if  it 
can  be  bought ;  nor  even  for  other  necessaries. 
But  all  this  is  frivolous — we  know  how  to  pre- 
serve ourselves !  Where  one  dies  in  an  hundred 
with  others,  we  lose  not  one  in  five  hundred,  in 
the  course  of  a  month.  For  the  healthy,  drink, 
air,  and  food — for  the  sick,  air,  drink,  and  food. 
Brothers,  the  enemy  trembles  for  you!  But 
there  is  another  enemy,  greater  than  the  hos- 
pital— the  d-mn'd  "  I  dont  know3  /"  From  the 

(1)  Here  he  endeavours  to  counteract  a  Russian  prejudice,  favourable 
to  immoderate  eating  during  fevers. 

(2)  A  sour  beverage,  made  of  fermented  flour  and  water. 

(3)  Suvorqf  had  so  great  an  aversion  to  any  person's  saying  I  don't 
"know,  in  answer  to  his  questions,  that  he  became  -almost  mad  with 
passion.    His  officers  and  soldiers  were  so  well  aware  of  this  singularity, 
that  they  would  hazard  any  answer  instantly,  accurate  or  not,  rather 
than  venture  to  incur  his  displeasure  by  professing  ignorance. 


APPENDIX,    X°  I.  467 

half-confessing,    the  guessing,  lying,  deceitful, 
the   palavering   equivocation4,    squeamishness, 
and  nonsense  of  "  dont  hnow,"  many  disasters  ori- 
ginate.   Stammering,  hackering4 — and  so  forth; 
it's  shameful  to  relate!     A  soldier  should  be 
sound,  brave,  firm,  decisive,  true,  honourable ! 
— Pray  to  God !  from  him  comes  victory  and 
miracles!    God  conducts  us!    God  is  our  Ge- 
neral!— For  the  "  I  dont  know"  an  officer  is  put 
in  the  guard — A  staff-officer  is  served  with  an 
arrest  at  home.     Instruction  is  light !    Not  in- 
struction is  darkness  !    The  ivork  fears  its  master  I* 
— If  a  peasant  knows  not  how  to  plough,  the 
corn  will  not  grow !     One  wise  man  is  worth 
three  fools !  and  even  three  are  little,  give  six ! 
and  even  six  are  little6,  give  ten!    One  clever 
fellow  will  beat  them  all — overthrow  them — 
and  take  them  prisoners ! 

In  the  last  campaign,   the  enemy  lost  75,000 
well-counted  men — perhaps  not  much  less  than 


(4)  The  words  here  are,  some  of  them,  not  to  be  translated,  and 
seem  to  be  the  coinage  of  his  own  fancy.     The  Russians  themselve* 
cannot  affix  an  explication  to  them. 

(5)  A  Russian  proverb. 

(6)  Here  Suvarof'n  a  little  in  his  favourite  character  of  the  buffoon. 
He  generally  closed  his  harangues  by  endeavouring  to  excite  laughter 
among  his  troops ;  and  this  mode  of  forming  a  climax  is  a  peculiar 
characteristic  of  the  conversation  of  the  Russian  Boons.     In  this  man- 
ner :    "And  not  only  of  the  Boors,  but  the  Gentry!— and  not  onty  of  the 
Gentry,  but  the  Nobles  I—and  not  only  of  the  Nobles,  but  the  Emperor .'" 

VOL.  II.  2  II 


APPLXDIX,    N°  I. 


100,OOO.  He  fought  desperately  and  artfully, 
and  we  lost  not  a  full  thousand1.  There, 
brethren,  you  behold  the  effect  of  military 
instruction!  Gentlemen  officers,  what  a  triumph! 


N.  B.  This  Translation  has  been  rendered  perfectly  literal ; 
so  that  effect  is  often  sacrificed  to  a  strict  attention  to 
the  real  signification  of  the  words,  instead  of  inlroduc'ng 
parallel  phrases. 


(1)  A  slight  exaggeration  of  Snvorof's. 


APPENDIX,     N°  II^  469 


No.  II. 


STATE  of  ENGLISH  COMMERCE  in  the 
BLACK  SEA, 

BY  A  MEMBER  OF  THE  LEVANT  COMPANY: 

TO  WHICH  ARS  ANSKXED, 

Certain  Official  Documents  extracted  from  the  "  Registrant 
of  the  British  Chancery  Office  at  Constantinople" 


"  AT  length  an  end  has  been  put  to  the  reluctant 
hostilities,  produced  partly  by  hostile  influence, 
and  partly  by  mismanagement,  between  England 
and  Turkey.  Having  now  to  begin  over  again 
in  that  Empire,  after  the  interruption  of  an 
amicable  intercourse  of  two  centuries,  it  is  to 
be  hoped  we  shall  retrieve  past  errors.  Political 
misfortune  is  but  another  name  for  misconduct. 
With  the  terms  of  the  Treaty  of  Peace,  con- 
cluded on  the  5th  of  January  180Q,  we  are  not 
likely  to  be  made  acquainted,  until  after  the 
ratification.  But  there  is  one  point,  which,  we 
may  take  for  granted,  cannot  have  been  neg- 
lected, in  framing  the  instructions  for  the 
negotiation;  and  to  this  the  attention  of  our 
a  H  2 


470  APPENDIX,     N°  II. 

merchants,  ship-owners,  and  mariners,  cannot 
be  too  early  directed ;  namely,  the  freedom  of 
the  Black  Sea,   as  established  in  favour  of  this 
country   in    1799-      Those  waters   have  been 
strangely  overlooked  by  statesmen  in  our  days, 
as  a  sort  of  blank  upon  the  map.     In  fact,  the 
Genoese    and   the    Venetian  Republics  seem  to 
have  been  the  only  Powers  of  Modern  Europe 
thoroughly  aware  of  the  importance  of  access 
to  the  very  heart  of  the  Continent,  afforded  by 
that  inlet ;  although  the  policy  of  the  Romam, 
on  that  head,  is  discoverable,  in  the  war  against 
Mithradates.     The  principal   treaty  extant  be- 
tween the  Crown  of  England  and  the  Ottoman 
Sultans  does  indeed  shew  some  vestiges  of  our 
having  had  footing  there  in  the  days  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  or  James  I. ;  but  when  we  ceased  to 
frequent  the  Black  Sea,  is  not  ascertained.    AH 
the  information  upon  record  seems  to  be  made 
use   of  in  the   first   of  the   three   documents 
annexed ;    which    is    the    Memorial    whereby 
Mr. 'Smith,    his  Majesty's  Minister-plenipoten- 
tiary at  the  Porte,  solicited  a  fresh  recognition, 
tantamount  to  a  new  creation,  of  the  right  of 
access,  in  favour  of  the  British  flag,   already 
alluded  to.     This  was   speedily  obtained,   as 
appears  by  the  second  document,  which  declares 
the  assent  of    the   late  Sultan  ^Selim  thereto. 
By  one  of  those  eccentric  movements  which 


APPENDIX,    NO  It.  471 

characterize  English  diplomacy,  that  Minister 
was  superseded,  a  few  weeks  afterwards,  by  the 
Earl  of  Elgin,  who  was  invested  with  the  rank 
of  Ambassador  Extraordinary.  But  it  was  not 
until  after  the  noble  Earl  had  been  replaced  by 
Mr.  Stratton,  in  the  character  of  Charge  d'affaires, 
that  the  third  and  last  document  of  the  series 
was  published  in  the  London  Gazette  of  the 
14th  of  September,  1802. 

"  To  what  extent  the  enjoyment  of  our  privi- 
lege, thus  renovated,  was  carried  during  the 
subsequent  embassy  of  Mr.  Drummond,  is  not 
precisely  known :  at  last,  however,  a  total  inter- 
ruption of  this  beneficial  pursuit,  in  its  still 
infant  state,  was  one  of  the  lamentable  conse- 
quences, amongst  others,  of  Mr.  Arbuthnots 
unaccountable  Hegira  from  Constantinople  in 
1807,  (on  board  the  Endymion  frigate). 

"  Although  it  is  not  a  part  of  the  present 
subject  to  trace  political  effects  to  their  causes, 
yet  this  slight  retrospect  has  already  introduced 
such  a  catalogue  of  names,  as  it  is  impossible 
to  take  leave  of,  without  a  word  of  regret,  that 
the  pernicious  influence  of  what  is,  by  common 
consent,  called  interest  (although  a  more  appro- 
priate epithet  might  be  employed),  should  be 
found  to  extend  its  discouraging  effects  to  the 


APPENDIX,     N°  II. 

filling  important  foreign  missions  with  novices ; 
while  Ministers,  regularly  brought  up  in  the 
diplomatic  school,  are  laid  upon  the  shelf,  like 
Yellow  Admirals.  With  the  two  exceptions  of 
the  gentlemen  first  named,  Mr.  Smith,  and 
Mr.  Stratton,  both  of  whom  completed  their 
servitude  in  the  subaltern  ranks  of  the  foreign 
line,  (the  former  as  Secretary  under  Mr.  Liston, 
when  Ambassador  at  Constantinople  in  17Q3, 
and  the  latter  under  Sir  R.  M.  Keith,  at  Vienna, 
in  1788,)  the  other  representatives  of  His 
Majesty  at  the  Porte,  during  the  interval  under 
review,  cannot  be  considered  as  qualified,  either 
by  professional  education,  by  official  experience, 
or  by  local  residence,  to  manage  our  concerns 
in  the  Levant.  Even  down  to  the  very  last 
appointment  to  a  special  mission  thither, 
destined  to  treat  with  a  country  convulsed  by 
internal  commotions,  can  it  be  said  that  per- 
sonal knowledge  of  the  Orientals  was  in  the 
slightest  degree  attended  to  ?  It  is  not  the  aim 
of  this  discussion  to  detract  from  the  possible 
merit  of  any  candidate,  nor  to  withhold  appro- 
bation from  the  useful  employment  of  abilities  : 
although  something  might  be  said  upon  the  pal- 
pable combination  of  the  Turkish  negotiation 
with  the  change  of  system,  in  one,  at  least,  of 
the  Imperial  Courts  :  otherwise  the  preservation 
of  amity,  with  a  Power  so  critically  situated, 


APPENDIX,     N°  II.  4/3 

in  its  interior  as  well  as  in  its  exterior  relation^, 
as  the  Ottoman  Porte,  would  be  precarious 
indeed.  But  the  general  respectability  of  the 
choice,  any  more  than  the  success  attending 
the  experiment,  cannot  militate  against  the  fact, 
that,  with  the  Third  Report  of  the  Finance 
Committee  lying  on  the  table  of  the  House  of 
Commons,  in  the  Appendix  to  which  (No.  ()3, 
dated  15th  March  1808)  are  registered  the 
names  of  five  ex-diplomatists  who  had  served 
in  that  quarter,  and  are  pensioned  off  to  the 
amount  of  jf.  8,950  annually.  With  the  con- 
tingent Pension  List  thus  charged,  Mr.  Adair 
was  sent  to  set  foot  in  Turkey,  for  the  first 
time  in  his  life. 

"  To  conclude.  After  re-organising  our  old 
establishments  on  this  side  of  the  Bosphorus, 
we  shall,  in  all  probability,  have  to  form  new 
ones  in  the  Euxine  regions.  We  have  the  sucr 
cessful  example  of  our  natural  rivals  before  our 
eyes,  as  to  the  advantages  derivable  from  pre- 
liminary information,  whether  statistical,  geo- 
graphical, or  hydrographical,  in  the  intercourse 
with  foreign  countries.  Every  intelligent  tra- 
veller knows  how  indefatigable  the  French,  are 
in  the  acquisition,  and  how  methodical  in  the 
application,  of  all  those  branches  of  local  know- 
ledge, to  the  purposes  of  war  or  peace.  This 


4/4  APPENDIX,    N°  II. 

department  of  study  is  too  much  left  to  chance 
amongst  us.  In  proportion  to  our  population, 
we  possess  a  greater  number  of  well-informed 
individuals  than  any  other  country,  perhaps, 
except  parts  of  Germany.  But  our  progressive 
knowledge  of  the  globe  is  not  digested  into  con- 
venient and  authentic  form.  Our  marine  charts, 
some  local  surveys  attached  to  expensive  publi- 
cations excepted,  are,  in  general,  so  defective, 
as  to  disgrace  a  naval  nation.  One  map-maker 
copies  the  antiquated  blunders  of  another :  and 
thus  is  error  perpetuated  by  each  succeeding 
publication;  in  which  the  map-seller  is  more 
attentive  to  the  workmanlike  appearance  of 
the  article,  than  to  the  scientific  merit  of  the 
performance.  The  revival  of  Levantine  naviga- 
tion offers  a  desirable  opportunity  for  rectifying 
the  hydrography  of  the  Black  Sea" 


Memorial  presented  to  the  Sublime  Ottoman  Porte,  ly  His 
Majesty's  Minister  Plenipotentiary,  Mr.  I.  S.  Smith. 

<(  HIS  Britannic  Majesty's  Minister  Plenipotentiary  has 
already  taken  occasion  to  apprise  the  Sublime  Ottoman 
Porte  of  a  petition  having  been  presented  to  His  Majesty's 
Government,  on  the  part  of  an  antient  Corporation  (not 
unknown  to  the  illustrious  Ottoman  Ministry)  entitled,  by 
Royal  charter,  '  The  Company  of  Merchants  of  England 
trading  into  the  Levant  Seas.'  The  prayer  of  which  petition 
is,  to  obtain  from  the  Sublime  Porte  the  same  advantages 
as  are  enjoyed,  within  the  Ottoman  Empire,  by  other  more 


APPENDIX,    N°  II.  475 

favoured  nations ;  meaning  thereby,  in  express  terms,  the 
privilege  successively  recognised  in  favour  of  the  Ritssians 
and  Germans,  relative  to  the  navigation  of  the  Slack  Sea. 
In  addition  to  the  earliest  communication  of  the  fact,  the 
English  Minister  thought  it  expedient  to  avail  himself  of 
the  friendly  intercourse  arising  out  of  the  mutual  duties  of 
alliance,  in  order  to  prepare  the  Ottoman  Ministers  of  State 
for  the  more  formal  agitation  of  the  question,  by  previous 
confidential  explanation  of  the  opinion  entertained  by  his 
superiors  upon  its  merits.  He  is  glad  of  this  public  oppor- 
tunity to  acknowledge  the  favourable  reception  of  those 
preliminary  overtures,  which  it  is  now  become  his  duty  to 
authenticate;  as  well  as  to  substantiate  his  verbal  arguments, 
by  the  present  detailed  exposition. 

"  Prior  to  the  treaty  of  defensive  alliance  concluded  on 
the  5th  of  January  1799,  the  political  relations  of  the  two 
Empires  rested  on  the  basis  of  (  THE  SACRED  CAPITULA- 
TIONS AND  ARTICLES  OF  THE  PEACE,'  as  they  have  been 
digested  in  the  times  of  several  Ambassadors1:  and  as  they 
have  been  revised  and  amplified  in  1661-2  by  the  Earl  of 
Winchelsea.,  Ambassador  Extraordinary  fromKmgCharles  II. 
And  also  as  they  have  been  since  augmented  and  renewed  at 
Adrianople  in  1086,  A.  H.  (1675,  A.  D.)  by  Sir  John  Finch, 
Knt.  Ambassador  in  Ordinary  from  His  said  Majesty  to  the 
Emperor  Sultan  Mahommed  Khaan. 

"  This  treaty  contains  several  Articles  which  apply  with 
peculiar  force  to  the  present  case  ;  viz.  1.  4.  7.  18.  22.  27- 
36.  and  38.3  to  which  the  undersigned  begs  leave  respectively 
to  refer. 

"  The  text  of  Articles  1.  4.  and  7-  sets  forth  in  general, 

(1)  Amongst  whom   are  named,    Sir  Thomas  Roe,  Knt.;  Sir  Sackvill 
Crow,  Bart.;  and  Sir   Thomas  liendish. 

(2)  Styled  in  the  text,   Sir  Heneage  Finch,  Knt.  Earl  of  Winchehea, 
Viscount  Maidston,    Baron  Fitzherbert  of  Eailwell,  Lord  of  the  Royal 
Manor  of  Wye,  Lieutenant  of  the  County  of  Jfent  and  City  of  Canterbury. 

(.3)  See  Appendix,  p.  482,  &c. 


476  APPENDIX,    K°  II. 

but  in  most  comprehensive  terms,  that  '  the  English  sub- 
jects and  dependants  may,  with  their  merchandise  and 
faculties,  freely  pass  and  repass  into  all  parts  of  the  Ottoman 
dominions ;  and  that  their  ships  may  come  and  harbour  in 
any  of  the  ports  or  scales1  of  the  same.'  Article  22.  recapi- 
tulating the  preceding  permission  to  'navigate  and  abide, 
buy  and  sell  all  legal  merchandise,'  enumerates  prohibited 
commodities.  Article  18.  sufficiently  secures  to  the  English 
'  all  privileges  granted  to  other  nations : '  but  to  make  the 
point  more  clear,  it  is  corroborated  by  the  prospective  lan- 
guage of  Article  2?.  which  declares  that  the  privileges 
granted  by  divers  Imperial  decrees,  whether  before  or  after 
the  date  of  these  capitulations,  shall  always  be  understood 
and  interpreted  in  favour  of  the  English  nation.'  Article 
36.  distinctly  defines  the  general  permission  of  ingress  and 
egress,  to  enable  '  the  English  merchants,  and  all  under 
their  banner,  to  go  by  the  way  of  the  Tanais*  into  Mos- 
covia  ;  and  also  to  and  from  Persia;  and  to  traffic,  by  land 
or  by  sea,  through  all  those  confines/  Finally,  as  if  it  were 
decreed  that  not  a  shadow  of  doubt  should  remain  respecting 
the  extent  of  our  navigation,  Article  38.  contains  the  follow- 
ing remarkable  maritime  provision;  viz.  £  If  English  ships, 
bound  to  Constantinople.,  shall  be  forced  by  stress  of  weather 
into  Coffa3,  or  to  such  like  port,  they  are  not  to  be 
compelled  to  break  bulk  arbitrarily,'  &c.  &c.  The  local 
description  given  by  this  and  the  preceding  Article  can  need 
no  comment. 

"  This  is  our  case,  as  far  as  it  rests  on  historical  testimony ; 
which  incontrovertibly  proves,  that,  in   point  of  fact,  the 

(1)  Scale — Term  employed  in  the  Levant  factories,  from  Scala  In  the 
Lingua-Franaa  dialect,  or  from  the  Turkish  word  Iskeli,  signifying  lite- 
rally a  Ladder  or  Stairs,  and,  figuratively,  a  Commercial  Quay. 

(2)  Tana'is  or  Dun,  a  river  of  Russia  falling  into  the  Sea  of  A-~af  or 
Falus  Maotis;  accessible  only  from  the  Black  Sea  by  the  Strait  of  Iranian 
or  Ymi-Knlek,  formerly  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus. 

(3)  C(,fl':t   Kafi'a.  KefflA,  alias  Tlteodosia,  a  port  in  the  Black  Sea,  on  the 
S.  E.  coas>t  of  the  A'rim-:a,  formerly  the  Taurica  CkcrsoKcsui, 


APPENDIX,    N°  II. 

English  have  once  enjoyed  a  right,  recognised  by  an 
authentic  instrument,  afterwards  reduced  by  the  vicissitudes 
of  human  affairs  to  a  dormant  state;  but  never  extinguished : 
mere  disuse,  occasioned  by  the  varying  circumstances  of 
succeeding  times,  is  surely  very  different  from  renunciation 
or  forfeiture. 

"  But  supposing  that  the  implied  right  to  equality  of 
favour  was  not  so  explicitly  admitted  as  it  is  by  Article  18. ; 
supposing  further,  that  the  fact  of  the  waters  of  the  Krimea 
had  not  been  so  specifically  established  as  it  is  by  Article  38. ; 
nay,  that  England  could  produce  no  title  at  all  in  support 
of  this  claim ;  there  are  other  arguments  to  influence  the 
decision  of  the  question  in  our  favour,  derived  from  the 
liberal  system  of  the  Sublime  Porte  itself  in  its  foreign  rela- 
tions, from  the  fitness  of  things,  and  connected  with  the 
interests  of  this  Empire. 

"  In  the  daily  transactions  between  the  Chancery  of  State 
and  the  different  European  legations,  how  often  do  preten- 
sions come  under  discussion  which  are  unsupported  by 
conventions  ad  hoc.  The  invariable  practice  is,  to  refer  all 
such  doubtful  cases  to  the  test  of  antient  usage,  which  i* 
almost  always  considered  as  equivalent;  and  lapse  of  time, 
so  far  from  rendering  precedent  obsolete,  generally  stamps 
it  with  additional  value  in  the  eyes  of  the  Porte.  In  proof 
of  which  may  be  cited  the  conduct  of  the  Reis  Effendi 
towards  the  English  Embassy  in  1795,  when  certain  reforms 
were  projected  in  the  Custom-house  tariff;  by  which  the 
duties  on  foreign  merchandise  were  collected  ad  valorem, 
in  order  to  bring  the  chargeable  valuation  nearer  to  the 
current  prices  of  the  day.  The  two  Imperial  Courts  not 
acceding  to  the  proposed  change,  on  the  ground  of  their 
commercial  tariffs  forming  au  integral  part  of  the  text  of 
their  respective  treaties  of  peace,  the  Sublime  Porte  desisted 
from  the  measure  with  respect  to  them:  and,  although  we 
could  not  make  the  same  pica  (inasmuch  as  our  tar(#' stood 


478  APPENDIX,    N"  II. 

upon  the  ground  of  a  simple  contract  between  the  customer 
of  Constantinople  and  the  English  factory,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  very  few  articles  enumerated  in  the  capitulations), 
yet,  for  the  sole  reason  above  mentioned,  Rashid  Effendi, 
then  in  office,  voluntarily  and  formally  exempted  Mr.  Listen 
from  any  farther  discussion  of  the  subject :  a  memorable 
instance  of  that  exemplary  good  faith  manifested  by  the 
Ottoman  Government  in  the  observance  of  treaties,  and 
particularly  shewing  its  equitable  construction  of  their 
meaning  relative  to  the  English. 

"  Since  the  time  when  the  Black  Sea  formed,  as  it  were, 
a  lake  encircled  by  the  Turkish  territory,  circumstances, 
unnecessary  to  trace  here,  have  transferred  a  part  of  the 
Euxine  coasts  to  Russia :  and  collateral  causes  have  ren- 
dered the  House  of  Austria  participator  in  the  same  privi- 
lege of  access  to  the  Black  Sea,  although  not  possessing, 
like  the  former  power,  any  territorial  property  in  its  shores. 
However  natural  it  might  be  for  any  Power,  which  was  sole 
possessor  of  the  key  of  those  inland  waters,  to  conceive  its 
duty,  as  guardian  of  the  commerce  and  navigation  of  its 
subjects,  best  fulfilled  by  a  rigid  exclusion  of  strangers ;  yet, 
the  ice  once  broken,  by  the  admission  of  a  single  foreign 
flag,  the  arguments  for  the  original  system  of  monopoly 
not  only  cease  to  be  tenable,  but  actually  change  their 
bearing  in  favour  of  another  order  of  things ;  whereby  the 
excessive  benefit  of  the  first  grantee  shall  be  shared  and 
subdivided  with  one  or  more  competitors,  leaving  the  parti- 
cular shades  of  their  rivality  out  of  the  question.  So  far 
from  the  Turkish  coasting-trade  being  interfered  with  by 
the  direct  voyages  of  foreign  vessels,  it  is  rather  to  be 
expected  that  the  seamanship  of  the  Ottoman  manners 
would  be  improved  by  the  example  of  a  naval  nation  like 
the  English,  and  the  ship-builders  be  advanced  in  their 
art  by  the  inspection  of  more  perfect  models.  The  Govern- 
ment can  always  keep  the  concourse  of  foreign  shipping 


APPENDIX,    N°  II.  479 

within  due  bounds,  by  navigation  laws  ;  while  the  treasury 
cannot  but  feel  the  beneficial  effects  of  the  transit  by  Con- 
stantinople. The  commodities  furnished  by  the  trade  with 
England  are  of  admitted  utility  to  all  classes  of  this  nation, 
and  of  prime  necessity  to  some.  By  enabling  the  English 
navigator  to  penetrate  the  deep  gulphs  of  the  Black  Sea, 
and  thus  rendering  the  remotest  districts  accessible  to  the 
English  merchant,  instead  of  the  present  languid  routine 
of  a  single  factory,  superintending  two  or  three  annual 
cargoes,  assorted  according  to  the  limited  consumption 
of  the  metropolis,  with  the  refuse  of  which  the  provincial 
traders  are  scantily  furnished  at  second  and  third  hand, 
we  shall  see  whole  fleets  laden  with  the  richest  pro- 
ductions of  the  Old  and  New  World.  British  capital  and 
credit  would  attract  flourishing  establishments  in  the  solitary 
harbours  of  Anatolia;  from  whence  the  adjacent  cities 
would  receive  less  indirect  supplies ;  and  where  the  land- 
owners would  find  a  more  ready  exchange  for  their  produce. 
Sinope  and  Trelizond  would  again  emulate  the  prosperity 
and  population  of  Aleppo  and  Smyrna.  The  Abazes, 
Lazes,  and  other  turbulent  hordes  who  inhabit  the  moun- 
tainous fastnesses,  by  mixing  more  frequently  with  their 
fellow-subjects  at  those  marts,  could  not  fail  to  learn  their 
real  interest  to  be  inseparable  from  the  performance  of 
their  duty. 

"  After  this  solution  of  the  problem,  in  one  sense,  there 
are  still  some  other  substantial  reasons  to  expect  the 
Ottoman  Ministry  will  consent  to  an  arrangement,  tending  to 
consolidate,  more  and  more,  the  connection  it  has  pleased 
the  Supreme  Providence  to  ordain  between  the  two  Empires: 
but  the  most  elevated  ground  of  hope  is  found  in  the 
magnanimous  sentiments  of  his  Imperial  Majesty.  That 
monarch  will  surely  not  suffer  the  antient  and  unalterable 
friend,  the  zealous  and  devoted  ally  of  his  Empire,  to  sustain 
a  disadvantageous  comparison  with  any  other  Power,  in 


480  APPENDIX,    N"  II. 

point  of  the  enjoyment  of  immunities  within  his  dominions : 
on  the  contrary,  the  English  Minister  indulges  himself  in 
the  flattering  persuasion,  that  even  were  this  question  one 
of  an  entirely  new  concession  in  favour  of  his  countrymen, 
provided  their  desires  were  not  unreasonable  in  themselves, 
nor  incompatible  with  the  essential  interests  of  the  Ottoman 
Empire,  it  would  encounter  no  difficulty  on  the  part  of  the 
Emperor ;  whereas,  what  is  solicited  is,  the  revival  of  the 
dead  letter  of  a  venerable  compact ;  the  favourable  inter- 
pretation of  an  antient  grant,  become  equivocal  by  change 
of  circumstances ;  the  restoration  of  a  privilege,  become 
questionable  solely  for  want  of  exercise.  It  is  suggested, 
to  seize  the  present  auspicious  moment  for  assimilating  that 
banner  which  is  the  victorious  antagonist  of  the  enemies  of 
the  Ottoman  name,  the  violators  of  its  territory,  to  the 
flags  of  its  neighbours  and  friends,  not  less  the  friends  of 
England.  Can  Russia,  for  instance,  take  umbrage  at  any 
arrangement  that  would  open  its  southern  ports  to  those 
who  are  the  harbingers  of  abundance  and  wealth  to  the 
northern  provinces  of  that  Empire  ? 

"  Nor  are  certain  moral  effects,  inseparable  from  such  a 
cause  as  the  arrangement  in  question,  to  be  overlooked  by 
Governments,  in  the  cultivation  of  political  relations ;  for, 
although  diplomatic  contracts  may  organize  the  body,  yet 
national  feeling  must  animate  the  soul  of  alliance.  It  is 
impossible  but  that  such  an  unequivocal  proof  of  the  interest 
taken  by  the  Emperor  in  the  welfare  of  the  King's  subjects, 
must  make  the  most  lively  and  lasting  impression  on  His 
Majesty's  mind;  and  must  augment,  if  possible,  the  just 
confidence  he  already  entertains  in  the  person  and  govern- 
ment of  his  august  ally.  The  people  of  England,  distin- 
guished as  they  are  by  active  industry  and  speculative 
habits,  will  fully  appretiate  a  concession  at  once  so  valuable 
and  so  seasonable.  Public  opinion  will  derive  therefrom 
that  additional  intensity,  and  permanent  direction,  in  favour 


APPENDIX,    Ng  If.  481 

of  the  connection  between  the  two  countries,  no  less  desirable 
to  ensure  its  durability,  than  requisite  mutually  to  realize 
all  its  immediate  benefits.  To  appropriate  the  enterprising 
energies  of  a  warlike  people  is  no  unfair  equivalent  for 
mercantile  encouragement :  the  cordial  voice  of  an  inde- 
pendent nation  is  no  unworthy  return  for  an  act  of  grace. 
British  gratitude  will  pay  this  tribute  to  Sultan  Selim. 

"  Here  closes  the  case  which  the  English  Minister,  in 
obedience  to  his  instructions,  has  the  honour  to  submit  to 
the  consideration  of  the  Illustrious  Ministry.  In  the  first 
place,  he  has  endeavoured  to  bring  the  existence  of  the  pri- 
vilege within  the  scope  of  historical  evidence,  as  a  claim  of 
unextinguished  right.  Secondly,  he  has  discussed  the  ques- 
tion upon  the  ground  of  political  expediency.  And  lastly, 
solicits  the  Imperial  assent  as  a  national  boon.  The 
reliance  that  he  places  in  the  justice  and  wisdom  of  the 
Sublime  Porte,  and,  above  all,  in  the  generosity  of  the 
Emperor,  hardly  permits  him  to  harbour  a  doubt  adverse 
to  the  issue  of  a  negotiation,  which,  if  committed  to  feeble 
hands,  is  founded  on  such  a  solid  basis. 

"  It  now  becomes  the  duty  of  the  undersigned  to  state, 
in  the  name  of  his  Court,  the  distinct  object  of  this  Memo- 
rial :  namely,  the  promulgation  of  an  Imperial  Fermaan 
(edict),  enacting  the  re-establishment  of  the  English  navi- 
gation in  the  Block  Sea,  on  the  footing  it  appears,  by  the 
sacred  capitulations,  to  have  been  in  the  reign  of  Sultan 
Mohammed  Khaan,  the  most  puissant  Emperor  of  the 
Ottomans,  and  of  Queen  Elizabeth  of  glorious  memory,  or 
of  her  immediate  royal  successors.  It  is  more  particularly 
wished  to  move  the  Sublime  Porte  to  decree  the  same,  ac- 
cording to  the  tenor  of  its  treaty  with  Russia,  dated  at 
Constantinople,  10th  of  June,  1783,  oi  the  Christian  :era; 
confirmed  by  the  treaty  of  peace  concluded  at  Yassy*  en 

(1)  Tasty,  or  Jassi,  the  capital  of  Moldavia,  a  frontier  provinrs  of 
T«rAry;  the  governor  or  Vatvoda  of  which  is  alwnyx  'elected  from  th* 
Gi-rjlc  nobility. 


482  APPENDIX,    X°  II. 

the  9th  of  January,  1/92,  from  Article  17,  to  Article  35, 
inclusive;  subject,  nevertheless,  to  such  provisions  as 
existing  circumstances  may  render  expedient.  To  which  end, 
the  proper  officers  on  both  sides  shall  be  instructed  to  take 
arrangements  in  concert,  consulting  the  regulations  for  the 
passage  of  the  Sound  into  the  Baltic  Sea,  or  such  other 
acts  de  trans?  tu  as  obtain  authority  in  the  public  or 
maritime  law  of  Europe. 

"  Individually,  there  remains  one  other  duty  for  the 
undersigned  to  fulfil ;  and  that  is,  to  offer  his  most  respectful 
thanks  to  the  illustrious  Ottoman  Ministry,  for  the  courteous 
attention  always  paid  to  his  representations,  in  transacting 
the  business  of  the  station  he  has  the  honour  to  hold,  and 
especially  on  the  present  affair ;  as  well  as  for  the  ready 
access  allowed  him  on  all  occasions.  Also  to  renew  the 
assurances  of  that  conscientious  discharge  of  duty  towards 
the  Court  where  he  is  sent  to  reside;  of  which,  he  trusts,  the 
labours  of  his  ministry,  in  critical  times,  have  furnished  too 
frequent  and  ample  testimony  for  those  assurances  not  to  be 
accepted  as  sincere  by  the  Sublime  Porte. 

(Signed)  I.  S.  SMITH." 

"  Seligrad,  near  Constantinople, 
lit  September,  1799." 


APPENDIX  TO  MEMORIAL. 


Extract  from  the  Treaty,  entitled  '  The  Capitulations 
and  Articles  of  the  Peace.' 

ARTICLE  I. 

"  First,  that  the  said  nation  and  the  English  merchants, 
and  any  other  nation  or  merchants  which  are  or  shall  come 
under  the  English  banner  and  protection,  with  their  ships, 
small  and  great,  merchandise,  faculties^  and  all  other  their 


APPENDIX,  N"  II.  483 

goods,  may  always  pass  safe  in  our  seas,  and  freely  and  in 
all  security  may  come  and  go  into  any  part  of  the  Imperial 
limits  of  our  dominions,  in  such  sort,  that  neither  any  of 
the  nation,  their  goods  and  faculties,  shall  receive  any  hin- 
drance or  molestation  from  any  person  whatsoever. 

ARTICLE    IV. 

(  All  English  ships  or  vessels,  small  or  great,  shall  and 
may  at  any  time  safely  and  securely  come  and  harbour  in 
any  of  the  scales  and  ports  of  our  dominions,  and  likewise 
may  from  thence  depart  at  their  pleasure,  without  deten- 
tion or  hindrance  of  any  man. 

ARTICLE    VII. 

c  The  English  merchants,  interpreters,  brokers,  and 
all  other  subjects  of  that  nation,  whether  by  sea  or  land, 
may  freely  and  safely  come  and  go  in  all  the  ports  of  our 
dominions;  or,  returning  into  their  own  country,  all  our 
Beglerbegs,  Ministers,  Governors,  and  other  Officers,  Cap- 
tains by  sea  of  ships,  and  others  whomsoever  our  slaves 
and  subjects,  we  command  that  none  of  them  do  or  shall 
lay  hands  upon  their  persons  or  faculties,  or  upon  any 
pretence  shall  do  them  any  hindrance  or  injury. 

ARTICLE    XVIII. 

"  All  those  particular  privileges  and  capitulations,  which 
in  former  times  have  been  granted  to  the  French,  Venetians, 
or  any  other  Christian  nation,  whose  king  is  in  peace  and 
friendship  with  the  Porte,  in  like  manner  the  same  were 
granted  and  given  to  the  said  English  nation ;  to  the  end 
that,  in  time  to  come,  the  tenor  of  this  our  Imperial  capitu- 
lation may  be  always  observed  by  all  men  j  and  that  none 
may,  in  any  manner,  upon  any  pretence,  presume  to  con- 
tradict or  violate  it. 

ARTICLE    XXII. 

"  The  English  nation,  and  all  those  that  come  under 
their  banner,  their  vessels,  small  or  great,  shall  and  may 
VOL.  II.  21 


484  APPENDIX,    N°  II. 

navigate,  traffic,  buy,  sell,  and  abide  in  all  parts  of  our 
dominions,  and,  excepting  arms,  gunpowder,  and  other 
such  prohibited  commodities,  they  may  load,  and  carry 
away,  in  their  ships,  whatsoever  of  our  merchandise,  at 
their  own  pleasure,  without  the  impeachment  or  trouble 
of  any  man ;  and  their  ships  and  vessels  may  come 
safely  and  securely  to  anchor  at  all  times,  and  traffic  at  all 
times,  in  any  part  of  our  dominions,  and  with  their  money 
buy  victuals,  and  all  other  things,  without  any  contradic- 
tion or  hindrance  of  any  man. 

ARTICLE  XXVII. 

"  All  these  privileges,  and  other  liberties  granted  to  the 
English  nation,  and  those  who  come  under  their  protec- 
tion, by  divers  Imperial  commands,  whether  before  or 
after  the  date  of  these  Imperial  capitulations,  shall  be  al- 
ways obeyed  and  observed,  and  shall  always  be  understood 
and  interpreted  in  favour  of  the  English  nation,  according 
to  the  tenor  and  true  contents  thereof. 

ARTICLE    XXXVI. 

' "  The  English  merchants,  and  all  under  their  banner, 
shall  and  may  safely,  throughout  our  dominion,  trade,  buy, 
sell,  (except  only  commodities  prohibited)  all  sorts  of  mer- 
chandise; likewise,  either  by  land  or  sea,  they  may  go 
and  traffic,  or  by  the  way  of  the  river  Tandis,  in  Moscovia, 
or  by  Russia,  and  from  thence  may  bring  their  merchandise 
into  our  empire ;  also  to  and  from  Persia  they  may  go  and 
trade,  and  through  all  that  part  newly  by  us  conquered, 
and  through  those  confines,  without  the  impediment  or 
molestation  of  any  of  our  Ministers :  and  they  shall  pay 
the  custom  or  other  duties  of  that  country,  and  nothing 
more. 

ARTICLE    XXXVIII. 

ff  The  English  ships  which  shaft  come  to  this  our  city 
of  Constantinople,  if,  by  fortune  of  seas,  or  ill-weather,  they 


APPENDIX,    N°  II.  485 

* 

shall  be  forced  to  Cojfa,  or  to  such  like  port,  as  long  as  the 
English  will  not  unlade  or  sell  their  own  merchandise  and 
goods,  no  man  shall  enforce  or  give  them  any  trouble  or 
annoyance :  but  in  all  places  of  danger,  the  Caddees,  or 
other  of  our  Ministers,  shall  always  protect  and  defend  the 
said  English  ships,  men,  and  goods,  that  no  damage  may 
come  unto  them  :  and  with  their  money  may  buy  victuals 
arid  other  necessaries  :  and  desiring  also  with  their  money 
to  hire  carts  or  vessels,  which  before  were  not  hired  by  any 
other,  to  transport  their  goods  from  place  to  place,  no  man 
shall  do  them  any  hindrance  or  trouble  whatsoever." 


TRANSLATION 

Of  the  Original  Grant  of  the  Freedom  of  the  Black  Sea,  as 
delivered  to  I.  S.  SMITH,  Esq.  and  recorded  in  the  Public 
Register  of  the  Chancery  of  the  British  Factory  at  Constan- 
tinople. 

"  The  friendship  and  good  intelligence  which  subsist, 
since  the  most  remote  times,  between  the  Sublime  Porte, 
of  solid  glory,  and  the  Court  of  England)  being  now  crowned 
by  an  alliance  founded  on  principles  of  the  most  inviolable 
sincerity  and  cordiality  ;  and  these  new  bands  thus 
strengthened  between  the  two  Courts  having  hitherto  pro- 
duced a  series  of  reciprocal  advantages;  it  is  not  pre- 
sumptuous to  suppose,  that  their  salutary  fruits  will  be 
reaped  still  more  abundantly  in  time  to  come.  Now,  after 
mature  reflection,  on  the  representations  that  the  English 
Minister  Plenipotentiary  residing  at  the  Sullime  Pwte,  our 
very  esteemed  friend,  has  made  relative  to  the  privilege  of 
navigation  in  the  Black  Sea,  for  the  merchant  vessels  of  his 
nation;  representations  that  he  has  reiterated,  both  in 
writing  and  verbally,  in  conformity  to  his  instructions,  and 
with  a  just  confidence  in  the  lively  attachment  of  the  Porfe 
2  I  1 


APPENDIX,    N°  II. 

towards  his  Court :  therefore,  to  give  a  new  proof  of  these 
sentiments,  as  well  as  of  the  hopes  entertained  by  the  Sul- 
lime  Porte,  of  seeing  henceforward  a  multiplicity  of  new 
fruits  spring  from  the  connection  that  has  been  renewed 
between  the  two  Courts,  the  assent  granted  to  the  before- 
named  Minister's  solicitations  is  hereby  sanctioned,  as  a 
sovereign  concession  and  gratuitous  act  on  the  part  of  his 
Imperial  Majesty ;  and  to  take  full  and  entire  effect  as  soon 
as  farther  amicable  conferences  shall  have  taken  place  with 
the  Minister  our  friend,  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the 
burthen  of  the  English  vessels,  the  mode  of  transit  by  the 
Canal  of  Constantinople,  and  such  other  regulations  and 
conventions  as  appertain  to  the  object ;  and  which  shall  be 
as  exactly  maintained  and  observed  with  regard  to  the 
English  navigation,  as  towards  any  other  the  most  fa- 
voured nation.  And  in  order  that  the  Minister,  our  friend, 
do  inform  his  Court  of  this  valuable  grant,  the  present 
rescript  has  been  drawn  up,  and  is  delivered  to  him. 

"  Constantinople,  1  Jemazi-id-Evvel,  A.  H.  1214. 
30  October,  A.  D.  1799." 


TRANSLATION. 

Official  Note  delivered  ly  the  REIS  EFFENDI  to  ALEXANDER 
STRATTON,  Esq.  at  a  Conference  in  his  Excellency's  House 
on  the  Canal,  the  29th  of  July,  1802. 

(<  It  behoves  the  character  of  true  friendship  and  sincere 
regard,  to  promote,  with  cheerfulness,  all  such  affairs  and 
objects  as  may  be  reciprocally  useful,  and  may  have  a  rank 
among  the  salutary  fruits  of  those  steady  bonds  of  alliance 
and  perfect  good  harmony  which  happily  subsists  between 
the  Sullime  Porte  and  the  Court  of  Great  Britain :  and 
as  permission  has  heretofore  been  granted  for  the  English 
merchant-ships  to  navigate  in  the  Black  Sea,  for  the  pur- 
poses of  trade,  the  same  having  been  a  voluntary  trait  of 


APPENDIX,    N°  II.  487 

his  Imperial  Majesty's  own  gracious  heart,  as  more  amply 
appears  by  an  official  note  presented  to  our  friend,  the 
English  Minister  residing  at  the  Sublime  Porte,  dated 
I  Jemazi-ul-Akhir,  \  2 1 4  ',  this  present  Takrir 8  is  issued ; 
the  Imperial  Court  hereby  engaging,  that  the  same  treat- 
ment shall  be  observed  towards  the  English  merchant-ships 
coming  to  that  sea,  as  is  offered  to  ships  of  Powers  most 
favoured  by  the  Sublime  Porte,  on  the  score  of  that  navi- 
gation. 

«  Rebi-ul- Em-el,  1217. 
23  July,  1802." 


(1)  30th  October,  1799.  (2)  Official  Note. 


488  APPENDIX,  X°  III. 


No.  III. 


EXTRACT  from  the  LOG-BOOK  of  the  MODERATO, 

A   VENETIAN  BRIGANTIXE, 
Commanded  by  IL  CAPITANO  SIGNOR  BERGAMIXI ; 

Literally  translated  from  the  Original  Italian  ; 

Giving  an  Account  of  her  Voyage  in  the  Slack  Sea,  from  the  time 
she  quitted  the  Port  of  Odessa,  until  she  arrived  in  the  Canal 
of  Constantinople. 

N.  B.  The  Days  in  this  Journal,  after  the  Observation  of  Latitude, 
begin  at  Mid-day.  Before  the  said  Observation,  they  are  dated  at  Sun-set 
the  preceding  Evening,  and  the  same  while  in  Port  at  Anchor. 


Friday,  OCTOBER  31,  180O. 

V^LEAR  day — wind  N.  N.  w. — During  the  night, 
it  had  blown  from  the  North. — At  day-break,  the 
Captain  went  on  shore,  to  give  notice  to  the 
custom-house  officer  to  come  on  board,  and 
make  the  usual  visit,  previous  to  the  ship's 
departure. — Wind  fresh  from  the  North — sky 
clear.  At  eight  A.  M.  the  said  officer  came  on 
board.  After  his  search  was  ended,  weighed 
anchor,  and  put  to  sea,  accompanied  by  the 
Picolo  Aronetto,  Captain  G.  Bergamini,  the 
Captain's  nephew. — Kept  along  the  coast. — At 
ten  A.  M.  passed  the  Cape  of  Odessa. 


APPENDIX,    N°  III.  489 

Continued  steering  s.  s.  w.  along  the  coast, 
till  two  o'clock  p.  M.  in  nine  fathoms  water. 
At  that  hour,  sounded  in  ten  fathoms  water. 
Continued  s.  s.  w.  till  five  p.  M.  Made  the 
Point  of  Ah-herman,  which  bore  N.  w.  at  the 
distance  of  ten  miles.  Continued  the  same 
course,  in  ten,  twelve,  and  fifteen  fathoms  water, 
with  a  gravelly  bottom. — Thermometer,  48°. 

Saturday,  Nov.  J. 

Little  wind  from  sun-set  till  six  A.  M. — Steer- 
ing s.  s.  w. ;  at  which  hour  laid  to,  off  the  Isle 
of  Serpents '.  Then  steered  s.  w.  and  by  s.  with 
wind  N.  N.  w.  At  eight  A.  M.  the  said  isle 
bore  N.  and  by  E.,  distant  about  six  miles. 
From  that  time,  till  mid-day,  steered  s.  and 
by  w.  and  made  14  miles'  course. 

Latitude  observed  at  mid-day  by  three  sex- 
tants, 44°.  44'. — Thermometer  50°. 

Sunday,  Nov.  2. 
Clear  weather. — Little  wind  from  noon  till 


(l)  Me  of  Serpents— called  Fidonisi  by  the  modern  Greeks,  and 
Illan-adda-si  by  the  Turks.  We  discovered  it  at  three  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  An  account  of  its  antiquities  may  be  found  in  the  writings 
of  antient  authors  alluded  to  in  the  Work.  It  appeared  a  bleak 
mound,  rising  out  of  the  sea,  covered  only  with  low  grass.  Perhaps 
a  nearer  inspection  might  have  discovered  Ruins.  It  is  a  remarkable 
fact,  that  the  dolphins  round  this  isle,  and  neap  the  Mouths  of  the 
Danube,  are  white. 


490  APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

six  P.  M.  steering  N.  N.  w.  Afterwards  a  calm. 
Remainder  of  the  night,  partly  calm,  and  partly 
light  variable  breezes.  Our  course  w.  s.w. 
and  s.  w.  At  sun-rise  saw  the  coast  of  St. 
George,  (?)  and  land  beyond.  Till  mid-day, 
mostly  calm,  with  southerly  current.  Course 
during  the  day,  about  23  westward,  and  19' 
eastward.  At  noon,  ditto  weather,  and  smooth 
water. 

Latitude,  44°.  25'.     Thermometer,  56°. 

Monday,  Nov.  3. 

Calm  weather  and  clear,  with  little  sea.  The 
sky  sometimes  overcast.  At  noon,  the  land 
just  in  sight  from  the  mast-head.  Sounded  in 
30  fathoms  water;  gravel,  with  broken  shells. 
Course,  by  reckoning,  Q'  w.  and  53'  s. 

Latitude  43°  30'.     Thermometer,  53°. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  4. 

Thick  weather,  and  a  good  deal  of  swell. 
From  noon  till  five  p.  M.  course  s.  s.w.  with  an 
East  wind.  At  that  hour  made  Cape  Kel-leg-ghra, 
bearing  s.w.  and  by  w.  about  20  miles  distant. 
From  this  time  and  place,  till  noon,  we  made 
about  50  miles'  course,  with  an  East  wind, 
a  heavy  sea,  and  cloudy  weather. — Thermo- 
meter, 51°. 


APPENDIX,    N°  III.  491 

Wednesday,  Nov.  5. 

Thick  weather  —  light  wind,  and  a  heavy 
swell.  Discovered  that  the  ship  made  a 
little  water — about  an  inch  every  four  hours ; 
owing  to  the  straining  motion.  From  mid-day, 
till  eleven  p.  M.  steered  with  little  wind  from 
the  East.  Afterwards  a  calm,  till  two  A.  M. 
when  there  sprung  up  a  wind  from  the  N.W. 
Continued  our  course  to  the  South  till  six  A.  M. 
At  six,  a  calm. — Discovered  the  coast — and  at 
day-break  observed  the  land  off  the  mouth  of 
the  Canal  of  Constantinople,  distant  2O  miles. 
Calm  till  noon,  with  a  heavy  swell  from  the 
East,  which  worked  the  ship  very  much.  From 
sun-set  of  the  preceding  evening,  till  noon 
this  day,  had  made  42'  south.  At  noon,  stood 
opposite  the  light-house  of  the  Canal,  which 
bore  only  ten  miles  distant  to  the  West  of  us. 
— Calm,  with  a  heavy  swell. — Thermometer,  53°. 

Thursday,  Nov.  6. 

Hazy  weather.  The  wind  calm,  and  a  heavy 
swell  from  the  East.  Continued  to  work  the 
pumps,  the  ship  making  an  inch  of  water 
every  four  hours.  From  noon,  till  five,  light 
variable  breezes.  Keeping  the  prow  to  the 
sea,  viz.  to  the  South,  at  that  hour  the  wind 
veered  from  the  South  to  the  s.  S.E,  which 
caused  us  to  keep  the  prow  to  the  East ;  little 


492  APPENDIX,  N°  III. 

wind.  Continued  thus  till  six  o'clock  A.  M., 
when  the  wind  veered  to  the  s.  s.  w.,  and  we 
turned  the  prow  to  the  West.  At  sun-rise  the 
wind  strengthened  very  much.  Reefed  the 
sails — the  sea  having  calmed  from  the  East, 
and  swelled  from  the  s.  w.  At  this  time, 
observed  the  mouth  of  the  Canal  of  Constan- 
tinople, and  distinguished  the  light-tower  on 
the  Asiatic  side.  At  ten  o'clock,  the  wind 
still  increasing,  and  a  heavy  sea,  we  were 
forced  to  take  in  all  the  reefs  in  the  main- 
topsail.  At  twelve  mid-day,  the  wind  and  sea 
rose  to  such  a  pitch,  that  we  were  forced  to  lower 
the  topsail,  remaining  only  with  the  foresail,  the 
mainsail,  the  main-staysail,  and  the  fore-stay- 
sail. The  sea  rolled  over  the  ship,  from  one  side 
of  the  deck  to  the  other ;  and  we  perceived,  at 
the  same  time,  that  the  water  in  the  hold  had 
risen  even  to  the  sentina1.  Immediately  we 
pumped  the  ship.  At  noon,  made  the  mouth 
of  the  Canal,  bearing  s.  and  by  w.  distant 
about  20  miles.  Heavy  sea,  and  tempestuous 
weather. — Thermometer,  65°. 

Friday,  Nov.  7. 
Weather  exceedingly  thick  and  dark.     Wind 


(l)  So  the   w.ord  stands  in  the  original.    But    sentina  means  the 
pump-well,  iuto  which  the  water  must  flow  in  order  to  be  discharged. 


APPENDIX,   N°  III.  403 

tempestuous,  and  heavy  sea.  Obliged  to  work 
the  pumps  every  hour;  the  ship  making  two 
inches  of  water.  From  noon,  till  four  p.  M., 
steering  with  a  tempestuous  wind  for  the  s.  s.w. 
At  this  hour,  the  mouth  of  the  Canal  bore 
s.  s.  w.,  distant  about  25  miles.  On  a  sudden, 
experienced  a  gale  of  wind  from  the  N.  w.  so 
unexpected  and  tremendous,  that  we  had 
scarcely  time  to  lower  the  sails,  and  were 
compelled  to  scud  before  it a ;  encountering  for 
an  hour  a  hurricane  of  wind  and  sea  from  the 
N.  w.,  which  at  the  same  time  met  the  heavy 
sea  from  the  s.  w.  in  such  a  manner,  that 
at  every  pitch  the  ship  made,  her  bowsprit  was 
carried  under  water ;  our  vessel  at  the  same 
time  labouring  so  much,  that  the  sea  washed 
entirely  over  her,  and  we  were  obliged  to  nail 
up  all  the  port-holes  and  other  apertures. 
At  five  P.  M.  the  great  fury  of  the  hurricane 
abated.  Put  the  ship  a  la  capa*,  with  the  prow 
to  the  s.  w.  carrying  only  the  jib  and  mainsail, 


(2)  The  common  and  only  resource  of  Turkish  vessels  in  a  storm; 
but  never  used  by  European  ships,  unless  in  cases  of  imminent  and 
absolute  danger.     Had  the  storm  continued  another  half  hour,  with 
the  same  violence,  we  must  have  been  inevitably  lost,  even  supposing 
her  to  sustain  the  violence  of  the  sea,  as  we  had  a  lee-shore  under 
the  ship's  prow. 

(3)  'A  la  capa  is,  literally,  lying  to,  with  the  helm  hard  a-lce. 


494  APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

with  three  reefs,  with  a  view  to  get  clear  of  the 
land;  at  the  same  time,  the  storm  still  con- 
tinued with  such  fury,  that  the  sea  rolled  over 
the  deck  from  one  side  to  the  other.  At  six 
P.M.  the  wind  veered  to  the  s.w.  again1;  so 
that,  what  with  the  sea  from  the  N.  w.  and  from 
the  s.  w.  meeting  it,  the  ship  laboured  beyond 
all  measure,  and  we  were  compelled  to  keep 
the  pumps  going  every  hour.  At  eight  p.  M. 
took  in  the  jib,  with  the  view,  if  possible,  to 
keep  the  prow  more  to  the  sea ;  the  great  fury  of 
the  wind  and  sea  continuing  without  abatement, 
and  the  sea  continually  passing  over  us  from 
one  side  to  the  other,  so  that  the  deck  was  con- 
tinually full  of  water.  Matters  continued  in  this 
manner  till  mid-day,  when  the  fury  of  the  wind 
somewhat  abated.  Unreefed,  and  set  the  main- 
sail; the  same  tremendous  sea  still  continuing, 
and  the  deck  being  always  full  of  water.  From 
four  A.  M.  till  noon,  we  had  made  about  20  miles 
course  towards  the  East,  allowing  for  lee-way. 
At  noon,  made  the  high  land  to  the  Southward 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Canal,  bearing  to  the  s.w. 


(l)  Perhaps  a  greater  commotion  cannot  be  raised  in  the  sea  than 
•what  was  here  witnessed.  The  wind  having  raged  with  violence  for  a 
length  of  time  from  the  s.  w.  had  raised  a  prodigious  sea.  It  was  met 
4g~*  hurricane  from  an  opposite  quarter,  the  two  seas  encountering 
each  other :  and  in  the  course  of  two  hours  it  veered  to  the  same 
point  again,  when  the  sea  became  horrible  beyond  description. 


APPENDIX,    N°  lit.  495 

and  distant  about  3O  miles.  The  extreme  of 
the  land  visible  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  bearing  E. 
by  s. — Thermometer,  51°. 

Saturday,  Nov.  8. 

Very  thick  weather.  Wind  tempestuous,  and 
a  very  heavy  sea.  Kept  the  pumps  going,  the 
ship  still  making  two  inches  of  water  in  an 
hour.  From  noon  till  three  A.M.  continued 
steering  with  the  prow  to  the  North,  and  our 
course  corrected  N.  E.  by  E.  having  continually 
a  stormy  wind  from  the  w.  N.  w.  and  a  pro- 
digious heavy  sea.  At  three,  the  wind  veered 
to  the  North.  Wore  ship's  head  to  the  West. 
Continued  thus  till  ten  A.  M.  when  we  saw  the 
coast  of  Anatolia,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Canal. 
Then  steered  to  the  w.  s.w.  towards  the  said 
land ;  having  at  that  time  let  out  all  the  reefs, 
and  set  the  greater  sails.  Continued  thus  till 
noon,  when  there  fell  a  calm;  a  prodigious 
heavy  sea  remaining  from  the  N.  w.  which 
made  the  ship  labour  in  such  a  manner,  that 
the  deck  was  continually  covered  with  water, 
causing  also  great  damage  to  the  upper  works 
and  sails.  Lowered  and  furled  all  the  sails, 
leaving  every  thing  under  bare  poles. — Ther- 
mometer, 53°. 

Sunday,  Nov.  9. 

Thick  weather — wind  calm,  and  a  heavy  sea. 


49G  APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

Kept  the  pumps  continually  going.  From  noon 
to  six  P.  M.,  calm,  with  a  prodigious  heavy  sea 
from  the  N.  w.  which  caused  the  ship  to  labour 
exceedingly,  and  did  great  damage  to  the  works 
and  rigging ;  the  deck  being  at  the  same  time 
always  full  of  water,  which,  with  the  ship's  rolling, 
washed  from  one  side  to  the  other.  At  six,  a 
light  breeze  from  the  Southward.  Came  to  the 
wind  on  the  larboard  tack:  head  s.  s.w.,  ship 
labouring  less.  At  ten  p.  M.  the  wind  veered 
to  the  s.  s.  w.,  which  obliged  us  to  put  the 
prow  to  the  West,  having  at  the  same  time 
much  calmed  the  sea.  At  eight  o'clock  A.M. 
the  mouth  of  the  Canal  bore  to  the  s.  s.w.  of 
us,  distant  about  30  miles.  From  the  time 
of  this  observation,  till  noon,  made  12  miles' 
course  to  the  w.  N.  w.,  the  wind  s.w.  by  s. 
The  sea  calmed  from  the  N.  w.  and  somewhat 
swelled  from  s.  w. — Thermometer,  56°. 

Monday,  Nov.  10. 

Very  thick  weather.  Light  wind,  and  a  heavy 
sea  from  the  s.  w.  Continued  to  work  the 
pumps  as  before.  From  noon  till  midnight,  con- 
tinued to  steer  with  a  stormy  wind  from  the 
s.  s.  w.  Course  corrected,  w.  and  by  N.  36'. 
From  mid-night  to  seven  A.  M.  wind  from  s.  w. 
Course  corrected,  w.  and  by  N.  28 '.  At  this 


APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

hour  saw  the  coast  on  the  European  side ;  viz. 
the  land  towards  Inneadda,  and  the  coast  to  the 
N.  w.  Also  the  mountain  Gabbiam,  bearing  to 
the  N.  w.  of  Inneadda*  Towards  noon,  steered 
with  little  wind  from  s.w.  Course,  E.  to  N.  w. 
by  w.  10'.  The  sea  much  becalmed.  Dis- 
covered that  the  ship  heeled  on  her  starboard 
side.  Opened  the  port-holes  and  hatches  on 
the  larboard  side,  and  moved  part  of  her 
cargo ;  endeavouring  as  much  as  possible  to  set 
her  right ;  but  she  still  heeled  somewhat  towards 
her  starboard  side. — Thermometer,  60°. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  1 1 . 

Atmosphere  somewhat  overcast.  Light  wind, 
and  little  sea.  Continued  to  pump  as  before. 
From  noon  till  nine  P.  M.  steered  with  the  prow 
to  the  N.  w.  with  wind  from  w.  s.  w.  The  wind 
afterwards  veered  to  the  w.  by  N.  and  turned 
her  side  with  the  prow  to  the  s.  s.  w.  Light 
favourable  wind.  Continued  steering  thus  till 
ten  A.  M.  when  the  wind  veered  to  the  s.  s.  w.; 
and  being  to  the  windward  of  the  port  of  Inne- 
adda, turned  the  ship's  bow  with  the  prow  to 
the  West,  towards  the  said  port;  being  deter- 
mined to  anchor  there,  and  endeavour  to  set 
the  ship  right  on  her  keel.  At  four  p.  M.,  cast 
anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  port  of  Inneadda, 
in  six  fathoms  water,  with  a  small  gravelly 


498  APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

bottom,  mixed  with  black  sand.  The  same 
wind  continued  till  towards  sun-set,  when  there 
fell  a  calm. — Thermometer,  53°. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  12. 

Atmosphere  somewhat  overcast,  and  a  calm. 
Continued  to  pump  as  before.  Laid  at  anchor. 
Light  breezes  of  wind.  In  this  day  opened  the 
hatches  and  port-holes,  to  right  the  ship  as 
much  as  possible — moved  part  of  her  cargo — 
repaired  and  altered  part  of  the  rigging,  and 
sent  the  crew  ashore  for  water. — Thermo- 
meter, 60°. 

Thursday,  Nov.  13. 

Atmosphere  somewhat  overcast,  and  calm 
wind.  Continued  to  pump  as  before.  Laid  at 
anchor.  The  whole  night  passed  with  light 
breezes  of  wind,  and  calms ;  also  all  the  rest 
of  the  day,  till  sun-set.  This  day  employed 
in  repairing  various  damages  sustained  in  the 
rigging,  &c. — Thermometer,  67°. 

Friday,  Nov.  14. 

Atmosphere  overcast.  Calm.  Continued  to 
pump  as  before.  Remained  at  anchor.  From 
sun-set  to  mid-night,  calm,  and  atmosphere 
somewhat  overcast.  Afterwards  it  became 
cloudy  on  all  sides,  and  there  sprung  up  a 
alight  wind  from  the  West,  which  continued 


APPENDIX,    NO  III.  499 

till  ten  A.M.,  when  the  wind  veered  to  the 
East,  and  the  atmosphere  became  very  turbid 
on  all  sides,  especially  from  the  North  to  the 
East ;  at  the  same  time  a  heavy  sea  rolling 
into  the  port  from  the  East.  A  slight  wind 
continued  till  sun-set,  a  turbid  sky,  and  a 
heavy  sea.  About  twenty  Turkish  boats  entered 
the  port  this  day  from  various  places,  bound 
for  Cojistantinople,  and  waiting  for  favourable 
weather. 

Saturday,  Nov.  15. 

Very  thick  weather.  Little  wind,  and  a 
heavy  swell.  Remained  at  anchor :  continued  to 
work  the  pumps,  although  the  water  diminished, 
and  we  only  pumped  two  inches  in  twenty-four 
hours.  From  sun-set  till  eight  A.  M.  a  slight 
wind  from  the  East.  At  that  time  the  wind 
veered  to  the  s.  w.,  having  swelled  the  sea, 
which,  entering  the  port  from  the  East,  made 
the  ship  labour  very  much ;  so  that  we  were 
obliged  to  anchor  the  poop,  with  a  small  cable 
to  keep  the  ship  with  the  prow  to  the  sea,  which 
eased  her  very  much.  All  the  rest  of  the  night, 
and  the  following  day  till  sun-set,  the  same 
wind  continued,  with  an  atmosphere  exceed- 
ingly turbid  on  all  sides. 

Sunday,  Nov.  16. 

Very  thick  weather.     Moderate  wind,  and  a 
VOL.  IT.  2  K 


500  APPENDIX,    N°  III. 

heavy  sea.  Remained  at  anchor  :  continued  to 
pump  as  before.  The  whole  day  a  s.  w.  wind. 
Atmosphere  exceedingly  turbid,  and  the  wind 
sometimes  stormy ;  all  which  continued  so  till 
sun-set. 

In  the  afternoon,  Captain  Morini,  from  Odessa, 
arrived  in  the  port,  bound  to  Constantinople, 
having  had  six  days'  passage.  Also  two 
Turkish  boats  from  the  same  place. 

Monday,  Nov.  17. 

Very  thick  weather.  Stormy  wind,  and  a 
heavy  sea.  Continued  to  pump  as  before. 
Remained  at  anchor  the  whole  night  and  day. 
Till  sun-set,  a  stormy  wind  from  the  s.w.  and 
a  cloudy  atmosphere  ;  everywhere  exceedingly 
overcast.  At  sun-set  the  wind  somewhat  calmer. 
During  the  night,  arrived  in  the  port,  Captain 
Bilajfer,  from  Odessa,  laden  with  corn,  bound  to 
Constantinople ;  having  had  six  days'  voyage. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  18. 

Very  thick  weather.  Little  wind,  and  a 
heavy  sea  from  the  East.  Continued  to  pump 
as  before.  Remained  at  anchor  in  the  port. 

All  night  and  day,  till  sun-set,  breezes  from 
the  E.  s.  E.  and  r.,  and  a  little  sea  from  the 


APPENDIX,    N°  III,  501 

East.    Atmosphere  continued  turbid.  This  day, 
raised  the  small  anchor. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  ig. 

Thick  weather.  Light  wind,  and  a  little  sea 
from  the  East.  Continued  to  pump  as  before. 
Remained  at  anchor.  The  whole  night,  light 
breezes  of  wind  from  the  East,  and  a  dark  fog. 
The  remainder  of  the  day  with  light  breezes 
of  wind,  scattered  and  cloudy,  with  rain,  which 
continued  till  sun-set. 

Thursday,   Nov.  20. 

Very  thick  weather.  Calm ;  with  rain,  and 
a  little  sea  from  the  East.  Continued  to  pump 
as  before.  Remained  at  anchor.  The  whole 
night,  till  day-break,  a  wind  from  S.S.E.  with 
rain;  and  the  whole  day,  till  sun-set,  with 
unsettled  variable  winds  from  all  points,  and 
heavy  rain,  with  intervals  of  calm  wind  and 
rain. 

Friday,  Nov.  21. 

Very  thick  weather.  Calm,  and  little  sea  from 
the  s.  E.  Continued  to  work  the  pumps. 
Remained  at  anchor.  From  sun-set,  till  six 
o'clock,  calm.  At  this  hour  there  sprung  up 
a  light  breeze  from  the  South,  and  the  at- 
mosphere cleared,  only  remaining  thick  towards 
the  East,  which  was  covered  with  a  dark  fog. 

2  K2 


502  APPENDIX,    N»  III. 

Continued  thus  till  ten  P.M.,  when  the  wind 
veered  to  the  w.  s.  w.,  and  the  atmosphere 
became  quite  clear.  Immediately  weighed 
anchor  and  set  sail,  spreading  all  the  great 
sails  to  the  wind.  When  the  anchor  came  on 
board,  found  it  had  lost  one  of  its  claws.  All 
the  vessels  and  boats  in  the  port  also  set 
sail,  steering  to  the  s.  E.  with  the  said  wind. 
Continued  thus  until  three  o'clock  after  mid- 
night; at  which  hour  we  had  made  20  miles' 
course  to  the  s.  E.  Then  succeeded  a  calm, 
and  this  continued  until  half-after-three,  when 
the  atmosphere  became  turbid  on  all  sides. 
At  four  A.M.  a  stormy  wind  rose  from  the 
North,  accompanied  with  rain.  Made  our 
course  to  the  E.  by  s.  till  eight  A.  M.  when 
we  discovered  the  coast  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Canal,  and  steered  to  the  s.  E.  At  this 
time  there  came  on  heavy  rain,  which  con- 
tinued till  noon,  with  thick  fog ;  and  it  was 
very  dark,  insomuch  that  we  could  no  longer 
see  land.  At  noon,  the  rain  being  somewhat 
diminished,  but  the  stormy  wind  and  a  pro- 
digious sea  continuing,  we  discovered  the  light- 
tower  off  the  mouth  of  the  Canal,  on  the 
European  side,  at  no  great  distance.  Imme- 
diately let  go  all  the  flying-sails ;  steering  to 
the  South,  directly  towards  the  mouth  of  the 
Canal,  the  wind  having  somewhat  calmed; 


APPENDIX,    N°  III.  503 

although  the  rain  fell  in  torrents;  and  such 
darkness  prevailed,  that  we  could  with  diffi- 
culty discern  the  land. 

At  three  o'clock  p.  M.  arrived,  opposite  to 
Boyouk-derrek,  in  the  Canal ;  and  at  five  P.  M. 
cast  anchor  at  Jenikeuy,  letting  go  the  great 
anchor  with  the  new  cable,  there  not  being 
time  to  lash  the  middle  cable  above  the  small 
anchor,  the  middle  cable  having  broken  in  the 
harbour  of  Inneadda.  Fastened  also  two  cables 
to  land;  our  anchorage  being  very  near  the 
shore,  in  six  fathoms  water. 


504  APPENDIX,  N°  IV. 

No.  IV. 


A 

LIST   OF  THE  PLANTS 

COLLECTED    EF   THE    AUTHOR 

DURING   HIS  DIFFERENT  JOURNEYS  IN  THE   CRIMEA; 

PRINCIPALLY  IN  COMPANY   WITH  HIS  FRIEND 

PROFESSOR  PALLAS. 

ALPHABETICALLY   ARRANGED. 


ACHILLEA  tomentosa  .     .     Cottony  Milfoil. 

Aegilops  squarrosa. 

Agrimonia  Eupaloria    ;     .     .  Common  Agrimony.     • 

Ajuga  alpina Mountain  Bugle. 

Alcea  ficifolia Fig-leaved  Marshmallow. 

Allium  descendens     ....  Deep-rooted  Garlick. 

Allium  subhirsutum  ....  Dwarf  Garlick. 

Alyssum  incanum      ....  Hoary  Alysson. 

Amaryllis  belladonna     .     .     .  Belladonna  Lily  .   .     .     From  Gardens. 
Anabasis  aphylla. 

Anagallis  arvensis  r  Pur  le.flowered  pimpernel . .  In  the  groves  of  the 

(flore  Phoemcio)  1  5i»a6rf«  Mountains  South 

of  the  Crimea. 

Anchusa  angustifolia      .    .     .  Narrow-leaved  Bugloss. 

Anchusa  tinctoria      ....  Dyers'  Bugloss. 

Andropogon  iscJusmum  .     .     .  Beard-grass. 
Androsace  septentrionalis. 

Antirrhinum  linariii      .     .     .  Yellow  Toad-flax. 

Apium  graveolens      ....  Wild  Celery. 
Apocynum  venetum  ....     Venetian  Dog-bane. 

Arabis  alpina  .  t Alpine  Rock-cress. 

Arabis  glandiflara     ....  Great-flowered  Rock-cress. 

Arenaria  marina       ....  Sea  Sandwort. 

Aristolochia  clematitis    •     .     .  Climbing  Birthwort. 


Artemisia  campestrit 


Asclepias  vincetoxicum  .     . 
Asphodelus  luteus      .     . 
Asp/iodelus  Tauricus.1 

Aster  amellus Italian  Starwort.2 

Aster  Tripolium Sea  Starwort. 


APPENDIX,    N°  IV.  505 

.  .  Field  Worm  wood..  Large  downy  excrescences  grow 
upon  this  plant  from  the  per- 
forations of  insects,  which 
are  made  use  of  by  the  Tah- 
tars  to  light  their  pipes.  _ 

.     Common  Swallow-wort. 
,     .    Yellow  Asphodel. 


Astragalus  Austriacus  . 
Astragalus  dealbatus 3    . 
Astragalus  hypoglottis   . 
Astragalus  onobrycJaoides ' 
Astragalus  pilosus     .     . 
Astragalus  utriger? 
Astragalus  virgatus 
Borago  Orientalis     .     . 
Bromus  squarrosus  . 
Bupleurum  tenuissimum 
Butomus  umlcllatus 
Campanula  hybrida 
Campanula  lilifolia  .     . 
Campanula  stricta 


Austrian  Milk-vetch. 
Whitish  Milk-vetch. 
Purple  Mountain  Milk-vetch. 
Sainfoin-like  Milk-vetch. 
Hairy  Milk-vetch. 

Twiggy  Milk- vetch. 

Oriental  Borage. 

Corn  Brome-grass    .  .  In  the  South  of  the  Crimea. 

Slender  Hare's-ear. 

Flowering-rush. 

Mule  Bell-flower. 

Lily-leaved  Bell-flower. 

Erect  Bell-flower. 


Carduus  puleher6  (nova  species)  Fair  Thistle. 

Carpinus  Orientalis1     .     .     .     Oriental  Hornbeam. 

Carthamus  lanatus. 

Centaurea  buxbaumiana.s  ^ 

Centauria  frigida    •    • 

Centaurea  lineata      .     .     . 

Centaurea  radiata    .    . 


Northern  Knapweed 
Streaked  Knapweed. 
Rayed  Knapweed  .  . 


Centaurea  Romano, 


Roman  Knapweed 


.  .  Steppes/ 

On  the  Steppes  near  Koslof. 
Called  by  the  Tahtars, 
Kurai.  The  sheep  feed 
on  it  in  winter,  and  it  is 
supposed  to  give  them 
that  grey  wool  so  much 
valued  by  the  Tahtars. 

Sea-coast  on  the  mountains 
in  the  South. 


(1)  Pallas.  (2)  See  Virgil's  Georgics.  IV.  271—276. 

(5)  Ibid.  (6)  Palla?. 


(3)  Pallas.  (4)  Bibcrstein. 

(7)  Willdenow.    (8)  Pallas. 


506  APPENDIX,    NO  IV. 

Centaurea  Sibhica    ....  Siberian  Knapweed. 

Ce.ntaurea  solstitinlis      .     .     .  Saint  Barnaby's  Thistle. 

Centaurea  Tahtarica     .     .     .  Tahtarian  Knapweed. 

Cerastiutn  alpinum  ....  Mountain  Mouse-ear. 

Cerastium  tomentosum  .     .  •  .  Woolly  Mouse-ear. 

Ceratocrtrpus  arenarius      .     .  Sand  Hornwort Perecop. 

Cerinthe  minor Small  Moneywort. 

Cheiranthus  odoratissimus  .     .  Taurian  Gilly-flower. 

Chrysocoma  graminifolia    .     •  Grass-leaved  Goldylocks. 

Chrysocoma  villosa    ....  Downy  Goldylocks. 

Cickorium  intybus     ....  Wild  Endive,  or  Succory. 

Cistus famana      .     .     .     ;     .  Prostrate  Rock-rose. 

Cistus  heliantliemum     .     .     .  Dwarf  Cistus. 

Cistus  angustifolius  ....  Narrow-leaved  Rock-rose. 

Clematis  vitalba  .....  Travellers'-joy. 

Clinopodium  vulgare      ,     .     .  Wild  Basil. 

Colchicum  vernum l  .     .     .     .  Spring  Meadow-saffron. 

Convolvulus  arvensis     .     .     .  Common  Bindweed. 

Convolvulus  Cantalrica .     .     .  Silky  Bindweed. 

Convolvulus  Cneorum    .     .     .  Silvery  Bindweed. 

Convolvulus  lineatus      .     .     .  Streaked  Bindweed. 

Convolvulus  terrestris    .     ,     .  Creeping  Bindweed. 

Corispermum  squarrosum 2      .  Scaly  Tick-seed. 

Cornus  mascula Male  Cornel-cherry. 

Coronilla  coronata. 

Crocus  sativus Autumnal  Meadow-saffron   .  .  Steppes,  near  Ah- 

melchet.  Oct.  10, 1800. 

Cynoglossum  officinale  .     .     .  Common  Hound's-tongue. 
Cyperus  Pannonicus. 

Daucus  carota      .....  Wild  Carrot. 
Delphinium  Ajacis    ....     Rocket  ....  On  this  flower  appear  the  letters 

AIAIA.3 

Delp?dnium  consolida  .     .     .     Branching  Rocket. 

Dianthus  arenarius 4  .     .     .     Oriental  Pink. 

(D.  Orientalis.  Curtis's  Botanical  Magazine.) 

Dianthus  plumarius  .     .     .     Feathered  Pink. 

(l)  Pallas.  (2)  Ibid.  (3)  "  Die,  quibus  in  terris  inscripti  nomine  Regum 

Nascantur  flores ;  et  Philida  solus  habeto."        Virgil, 
(4)  Ibid. 


APPENDIX,    N°  IV.  507 

Dianthus  salinus.  '  .     .     . 
Dianthus  saxatilis. 2 

Dorycnium  herbace.um  s On  the  mountain  Tctetirdagh. 

Dorycnium  monspeliense, 

Dracocephalum  altaicum  .     .  Altai  Dragon's-bead. 

Dracocephalum  grandiflorum  Great  Flowered  Dragon's-head. 
Dracocephalum  Tauricum.* 

Echinops  ritro Small  Globe-Thistle. 

Echlum  Orientate    ....  Oriental  Viper's-Bugloss. 

Echium  rubrum Red-flowered  Viper's-Bugloss . .  Gum  is  made  from 

the  roots. 

Epilobium  hirsutum  ....  Hairy  Willow-herb. 

Epilobium  roseum     ....  Smooth  Willow-herb. 
Erigeron  villarsii, 5 

Erysimum  barbarea '.     .     .     .  Bitter  Winter-cress. 

Euonymus  verrucosus     .     .     .  Warty  Spindle-Tree. 

Euonymus  latifolius  ....  Broad-leaved  Spindle-Tree. 

Euphorbia  hyberna    ....  Winter  Spurge. 

Euphrasia  lutea Yellow  Eye-Bright. 

Euplirasia  odontites  ....  Red  Eye-Bright. 

Frankenia  hirsuta     ....  Hairy  Sea-Heath. 

Fucus  aspleno'ides Turner's  Fuci,  Table  62.  .  Found  at  the  Point  of 

Phanari,  in  the  Heracleotic 
Peninsula,  near  the  Ruins 
'  of  the  Old  Chersonesus 
of  Strabo.  Only  found  be- 
fore at  Prince  William's 
Sound,  in  Captain  Vancou- 
ver's voyage,  and  on  the 
shores  of  Kamtschatku. 

Galanthus  nivalis     ....     Snow-Drop. 

Galega  ojffirinalis      ....  Goafs-Rue. 

Galium  glaucum6    ....  Sea-green  Ladies' Bed-Straw. 

Galium  rubwides      ....  Madder-like  Ladies'  Bed-Straw. 

Galium  sylvaticum    ....  Wood  Ladies'  Bed-Straw  .   .  Near  Perecop. 

Gentiana  septemfida      .    .     .  Sevencleft  Gentian. 

Geranium  rotundifolium     .     .  Round-leaved  Crane's-Bill. 

Geranium  sanguineum  .    .     .  Bloody  Crane's-Bill. .     . 


(1)  Pallas.  C«)  IMd.  O  Willdenow. 

(4)  Pallas.  (S)  Willdenow.  (6)  P»lla». 


508  APPENDIX,    N°  IV. 

Geranium  sylvaticum    ,     .     .  Wood  Crane's-Bill    .    .     .    Steppes. 

Glechoma  hederacea       •     •     .  Ground  Ivy. 

Glycyrrhiza  glabra  ....  Common  Liquorice. 

Gypsophila  glomerata.1 

Hedysarum  argenteum.11 

Hedysarum  cretaceum.* 

Hedysarum  Tauricum.* 

Helianthus  tuberosus      .    .     .  Jerusalem  Artichoke  .   .     .  Fields  at  Mmetchet. 

Heliotropium  Europceum   .     .  Turnsole. 

Herniaria  hirsula     ....  Hairy  Rupture-wort. 

Herniaria  Icevis Smooth  Rupture-wort. 

HesperisTaUarica*  .     .     .     -  Tabtarian Night-Violet. 

Hordeum  murinum  ....  Wall  Barley. 

Hyacinthus  botryoides    .    .     .  Grape  Hyacinth. 

Hyacinthus  comosus  ....  Purple  Grape  Hyacinth. 

Hyacinthus fuliginosus6     .     .  Sooty  Hyacinth. 

Illecebrum  capitatum     .     .    .  Downy  Knot-Grass. 

Illeccbrum  paronychia    .     .     .  Shining  Knot-Grass. 

Impatient  noli-tangere  .     .    .  Touch-me-not.   Yellow  Balsam. 

Inula  dysentcrica. 

Inula  ensifolia. 

Iris  ochroleuca     .....  Pale  Sword-Lily. 

Iris  tenuifolia Fine-leaved  Sword-Lily. 

luncus  acutus Sharp  Rush. 

Lamium  amplexicaule       .     .  Henbit. 

Linumfiavum Yellow-flowered  Flax. 

Linum  hirsutum       ....  Hairy-Flax. 

Linum  Narbonense  ....  Narbonne  Flax. 

Lithospermum  dispermum  .     .  Two-seeded  Cromwell. 

Lonicera  cctrulea      ....  Blue-berried  Honeysuckle. 

Lonicera  xylosteum  ....  Fly-Honeysuckle. 

Lotus  corniculatus    ....  Bird's-foot  Trefoil. 

Lycopsis  pulla Dark-flowering  Wild-Bugloss. 

Lycopsis  vesicaria    ....  Inflated  Wild-Bugloss. 

Lysimachia  vulgurit     .     .     .  Yellow  Loose-Strife. 

Lythntm  virgatum  ....  Twiggy  Willow-Herb. 

(1)  Pallas.  (2)  Ibid.  g)  Ibid. 

(i)  Ibid.  (5)  Ibid.  (6;  Ibid. 


MarruUum  pcregrinum 
Medicago  lupulina  .  . 
Melica  lanata  .  .  . 
Mentha  sylvestris  .  . 
Molucella  tuberosa. 
Myosotis  lappula  .  .  . 
Nepeta  nuda  .... 
Nigella  damascena  .  . 
Ocymum  basilicum  ,  . 
Olca  Europiea  .  .  . 
Ononis  hircina  .  .  . 
Onosma  echio'ides  .  . 


APPENDIX,    N°  IV. 

.  Rambling  Horehound. 

.  Black  Medick.     Nonesuch. 

.  Wooly  Melic-Grass. 

.  Wood  Mint. 


509 


Onosma  simplicissima. 
Onosma  Taurica.1 
Origanum  Heracleoticum 

Ornithogalum  circinatum  2 
(O.  reticulatum) 

OrnitJwgalum  proliferum5 
Ornithogalum  uniflorum 
Orobanche  cernua*  -     .     . 
Paonia  triternata5  .     .     , 
Panicum  dactylon     .     .     . 
Panicum  vlride    ... 
Pedicularis  tuberosa      .     . 
Peganum  harmala   . 


Phleum  urenarium  . 
Phleum  schcenciides   . 
Phlomis  herba-venti. 
Physalis  alkekengi    . 
Phyteuma  canescens6 
Picris  hierarioides     . 
Pimpinella  dioica 
Poa  cristata    .     .     • 
Polycnemum  arvense. 
Polycnemum  volvox."1 


Prickly-seeded  Scorpion-Grass. 

Smooth  Calamint. 

Common  Fennel-Flower. 

Sweet  Basil     ....  Gardens. 

Common  Olive. 

Smooth  Rest-Harrow. 

The  Tahtars  use  the  root 

to  paint  a  rouge. 


Winter  Marjoram. ' 
Netted  Star  of  Bethlehem. 

Proliferous  Star  of  Bethlehem. 
One-flowered  Star  of  Bethlehem. 
Nodding  Broom-Rape. 
Davurian  Psony. 
Fingered  Panic-Grass. 
Green-flowered  Panic-Grass. 
Tuberous  Lousewort. 

At  Kaffa. — The  Tahtars  send  the  seeds 

to  Turkey,  as  a  cure  for  worms. 

Sand  Cat's-tail  Grass. 
Rush-like  Cat's-tail  Grass. 


Winter  Cherry. 
Hoary  Rampion. 
Hawkweed-like  Ox-tongue. 
Dwarf  Burnet-Saxifrage. 
Crested  Meadow-Grass. 


(])  Pallas. 
(5)  Ibid. 


(2)  Ibid. 

M  Waldstein. 


(3)  Tbid. 
(1)  Pallas. 


(4)  Ibid. 


510  APPENDIX,    N»  IV. 

Potygala  major Greater  Milk-wort. 

Polygonum  maritimum     .     .  Sea  Bistort  ...."..  Near  Perecop. 

Potentilla  argentea  ....  Silvery  Goose-Grass. 

Potcntilla  recta Upright  Cinquefoil. 

Prenanthes  viminca. 

Psoralea  lituminosa. 

,Punica  granalum    ....  Pomegranate. 

Ranunculus  auricomus      .     .  Goldy-locks.  Wood  Crowfoot. 

Ranunculus  pedatus1    .    .    .  Small  Crowfoot. 

Reseda  lutea Base  Rocket. 

Rhododendron  daurlcum     .     .  Daurian  Rosebay. 

Jihus  coriaria Elm-leaved  Sumach. 

Rhus  cotinus Venice  Sumach  . .  The  Tahtars  give  the  yellow  co- 
lour to  their  morocco  with  this. 

Ribet  nigrum Black  Currant.  .  .  .  Grcassia. 

Rosapygmeea Dwarf  Rose On  the  lofty  precipices  of 

Rumex  crispus Curled  Dock.  [Mankoop. 

Rumex  dentattu Toothed  Dock. 

Salicornia  herbacea ....  Glasswort. 

Salsola  brachiata*    ....  Armed  Saltwort. 

SaUola  kali .Prickly  Saltwort    .  ".    Perecop. 

Saltola  soda  ......  Saltwort Ruins  of  the  Old  Cher- 
sonese, on  the  little  fortress 
near  Alcxiano's  Chouier. 

Salvia  SEthiopis Woolly  Sage. 

Sahia  glutinosa Clammy  Sage. 

Salvia  Hablitziana*      .     .     .  Scabious-leaved  Sage. 

Salvia  Horminum    ....  Red-topped  Sage. 

Salvia  nemorosa  .....  Wood  Sage. 

Salvia  offlcinalis Common  Sage. 

Salvia  pratensis Meadow  Clary. 

Salvia  verbenaca      .     .     .     .  Vervain. 

Saponaria  rrfficinalis      .     .     .  Common  Soapwort. 

Scabiosa  argentea     ....  Silvery  Scabious. 

Scabiosa  leucantha  ....  White-flowered  Scabious. 

Scabiosa  maritima    ....  Sea-side  Scabious. 

Scabiosa  stellata Starry  Scabious. 

(1)  Waldstein.  (2)  p»ll«s.  (3)  Ibid. 


APPENDIX,    N°  IV.  511 

Scaliosa  Ukranica   ....  Ukraine  Scabious. 

Schoenus  aculeatus  ....  Prickly  Rush. 

Scilla  autumnalis     ....  Autumnal  Squill. 
Scrophulariachrysanthemifolia^Oii-eye  Daisy-leaved  Figwort. 

Scutellaria  Orientate   .     .     .  Oriental  Scull-cap. 

Sedum  acre Stone-Crop. 

Sedum  album White  Stone-Crop. 

Sedum  saxatile Rock  Stone-Crop. 

Sedum  sexangulare  ....  Insipid  Stone-Crop. 

Senecio  erucifolius    .     .     .     .  Hedge  Ragwort. 

Seseli  dichotomum.3 

Seseli  gummiferum? 

Sideritis  montana     ....  Mountain  Ironwort. 

Sideritis  Syriaca Syrian  Ironwort. 

Silene  bella*  (nova  species). 

Silcne  quadrifida Tower-cleft  Catch- fly   .   .    Steppes  near  Perecop. 

Sinapis  erucoides      ....  Ragged-leaved  Wild  Mustard. 

Sisymbrium  Loeselii      .     .     .  Loesel's  Hedge-Mustard  .  .  Steppes  near  Perecop. 

Sisymbrium  Pannonicum  .     .  Pannonian  Hedge-Mustard. 

Sisymbrium  Pyrenaicum  .     .  Pyrenean  Rocket. 

Slum  falcaria Sickle-leaved  Water-Parsnip. 

Solanum  dulcamara      .     .     .  Woody  Nightshade. 

Sorbus  domestica Service. 

Spirceafitipendula    ....  Dropwort. 

Staticeferulacea Fennel-like  Sea-Pink. 

Statice  trigona Three-sided  Sea-Lavender  .  .  In  the  Steppes  very 

frequent. 

Stipa  capillata Hair-like  Feather-Grass. 

Symphytum  Orientate  .     .     .  Oriental  Comfrey. 

Tamarix  Gallica      ....  French  Tamarisk. 

Tanacetum  vulgare  ....  Common  Tansy. 

Teucrium  capitatum      .     .     .  Headed  Germander. 

Teucrium  chamapUys   .     .     .  Ground  Pine Perecap. 

Teucrium  mcmtanum     .     .     .  Mountain  Germander. 

Teucrium  polium      .         .    .  Poly,  or  Sweet  Germander. 
Thcsium  linophyllum. 


(\)  BTberstein.  (2)  Pallas.  (3)  Ibid. 

(4)  Silene  caule  decumbente  ramoso,  rami»R]abriu9Ciilis,foliis  lanceolatis  glabris  trinerviia;  Aoribus 
fasciculalia  ttnninalibus,  caljrcibus  striatis,  pilosiustulis  longi»imis,  peUlis  integris. .   ^L. 


512  APPENDIX,    N°  IV. 

Tliymus  Marschallianus1  j 

m  „     •  a  C   •  Taurian  Thyme. 

Thymus  Zygis*   .     .     .     J 

Thymus  Patavinus  ....  Patavian  Thyme. 

TiKa  Europeca Common  Lime-Tree. 

Tragopogon  Orientalis  .    .     .  Oriental  Goats-beard. 

Tribulus  terrestris. 

Trifollum  melilotus-officinalis ,  Melilot. 

Trifolium  subterraneum     .     .  Subterranean  Trefoil. 

Trigonella  Ruthenica    .     .     .  Russian  Fenugreek. 

Triticam  prostratum      .     .     .  Prostrate  Wheat-Grass. 

Ulmus  pumila Dwarf  Elm. 

Verbascum  Phoeniceum      .     .  Purple  Mullein. 

Verbena  officinalis  __  ....  Vervain. 
Veronica  alpina. 

Peronica  incana Hoary  Speedwell 

Verontea  longifolia  ....  Long-leaved  Germander. 

Veronica  multifida    ....  Manycleft  Germander. 

Veronica  procumbensJ 

(nova  species)        5       '     '  Procumbent  Germander. 

Veronica  verna Spring  Germander. 

Vicia  Pannonica      '.     .    *     .  Pan  nonian  Vetch    .     .     ."    .Steppes. 

Vitex  Angus-  Castus       .    ,     .  Chaste-Tree. 

Xeranthemum  annuum      .     ,  Annual  Cudweed. 

ZygopJiyllum  fabago      .    .     .  Bean  Caper. 

(J)  Willdenow.  (2)  Pallas. 


APPENDIX,    N°  V.  513 


No.  V. 


TEMPERATURE  OP  THE  ATMOSPHERE, 

ACCORDING   TO 

DIURNAL  OBSERVATION  MADE  DURING  THE  AUTHOR'S  TRAVELS ; 

WITH 

A    CORRESPONDING    STATEMENT    OF   TEMPERATURE   IN   ENGLAND 
During  the  same  Period, 

AS  EXTRACTED  FROM  THE  REGISTER  KEPT  IN  THE  APARTMENTS  OF  THE  ROYAL 
SOCIETY  OF  LONDON,  BY  ORDER  OF  THE  PRESIDENT  AND  COUNCIL. 

N.  B.    The   Observations  during  the  Journey  were  always  made  at  Noon :  those  of 
the  Royal  Society  at  Two  P.  M.;  and  both  on  the  Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 


Observation   on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

Observation  in  London 
When  made.                  on  the  same  Day. 

f  Freezing  \ 
6~    \  Point       / 
34 

Petersburg, 
Novogorod, 

April  a,  1800. 
April    4. 

49* 
54 

37 

Yaschelbizy, 

April    5. 

56 

35 

Vysneulilykoy, 

April    6. 

59 

40 

Gorodna, 

April    7. 

62 

47 

Tchernaia, 

April    8. 

56 

49 

Moscow, 

April    9. 

56 

42 

Moscow, 

April  10. 

57 

47 

Moscow, 

April  11. 

56 

51 

Moscow, 

April  12. 

60 

25 

Moscow, 

April  13. 

53 

31 

Moscow, 

April  14. 

57 

36 

Moscow, 

April  15. 

60 

44 

Moscow, 

April  16. 

55 

4G 

Moscow, 

April  17. 

55 

514 


APPENDIX,    N°  V. 


•vation  on  the 
:  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

Observation  in  London 
When  made.            on  the  same  Day. 

50° 

Moscow, 

April  18, 

1800.              61° 

50 

Moscow, 

April  19. 

60 

50 

Moscow, 

April  20. 

58 

53 

Moscow, 

April  21. 

56 

57 

Moscow, 

April  22. 

57 

65 

Moscow, 

April  23. 

50 

69 

Moscow, 

April  24. 

52 

73 

Moscow, 

April  25. 

49 

70 

Moscow, 

April  26. 

59 

66 

Moscow, 

April  27. 

50 

50 

Moscow, 

April  28. 

61 

51 

Moscow, 

April  29. 

58 

58 

Moscow, 

April  30. 

59 

31 

Moscow, 

May    1. 

60 

37 

Moscow, 

May    2 

67 

44 

Moscow, 

May    3. 

68 

50 

Moscow, 

May     4 

74 

66 

Moscow, 

May    5. 

74 

66 

Moscow, 

May    6. 

72 

70 

Moscow, 

May    7. 

74 

53 

Moscow, 

May    8. 

72 

37 

Moscow, 

May    9. 

73 

34 

Moscow, 

May  10. 

54 

31 

Moscow, 

May  11. 

57 

48 

Moscow, 

May  12. 

57 

53 

Moscow, 

May  ]3. 

59 

50 

Moscow, 

May  14. 

57 

64 

Moscow, 

May  15. 

5.9 

61 

Moscow, 

May  16. 

56 

52 

Moscow, 

May  Ijr. 

56 

51 

Moscow, 

May  18. 

60 

55 

Moscow, 

May  19. 

64 

68 

Moscow, 

May  20. 

61 

64 

Moscow, 

May  21. 

62 

APPENDIX,    N"  V.  515 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit.      Where  made. 

Observation  in  London 
When  made.           on  the  same  Day. 

77° 

Moscow, 

May  22,  1800. 

62° 

77 

Moscow, 

May  23. 

62 

80 

Moscow,  , 

May  24. 

64 

78 

Moscow, 

May  25. 

61 

46 

Moscow,  . 

May  26. 

67 

54 

Moscow, 

May  27. 

67 

48 

Moscow, 

May  28. 

69 

57 

Moscow, 

May  29. 

66 

68 

Moscow, 

May  30. 

64 

63 

Moscow, 

May  31. 

60 

79 

Grischinka, 

June    1  . 

58 

75 

Celo  Volotia, 

June    2. 

51 

69 

Tula, 

June    3. 

63 

75 

Tula, 

June    4. 

60 

72 

Bolshoy  Platyi 

June    5. 

65 

74 

Eletz, 

June    6. 

55 

75 

Woronetz, 

June    7- 

62 

83 

Woronetz, 

June    8. 

64 

84 

Woronetz, 

June    Q. 

63 

75 

Woronetz, 

June  10. 

58 

84 

Woronetz, 

June  11. 

60 

86 

Woronetz, 

June  12. 

59 

82 

f  Steppe    between 
I     and  lestakovo, 

Ekortzy-) 
'  VJune  13. 

64 

74 

Paulovskoy, 

June  14. 

57 

90 

Kasankaia, 

June  15. 

61 

94 

Kasankaia, 

June  16. 

61 

89 

Lazovai, 

June  I/. 

66 

88 

Kamenskaia, 

June  18. 

70 

75 

In  the  Steppes, 

June  19. 

74 

86 

o 

Axay, 

June  20. 

72 

76 

Tcherkask, 

June  21. 

66 

76 

Tcherkask, 

June  22. 

64 

80 

Tcherkask, 

June  23. 

68 

VOL. 

II. 

2  L 

516 


APPENDIX,    N°  V. 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

80° 

87 

82 

75 

73 

71 

85 

84 

86 

85 

79 

82 

89 

80 

81 

81 

86 

82 

79 

79 

80 

79 

77 

78 

73 

77 

72 

77 

78 

82 

82 

79 

82 

77 


Where  made. 

Axay, 

Axay, 

River  Don  near  Rastof, 

River  Don  near  Rastof, 

Taganrog, 

Taganrog, 

Taganrog, 

Taganrog, 

Taganrog, 

Taganrog, 

Sea  of  Azof, 

Steppe  near  Aeskoy, 

Steppe  near  Protchalnoy, 

Steppe  near  Penovra, 

Ekaterinedara, 

Ekaterinedara, 

Steppe  near  Kara  Kuban, 

Temrook, 

Sea  of  Azof  near  Taman, 

Sea  of  Azof  near  Yenikale, 

Yenikale, 

Yenikale, 

Yenikale, 

Yenikale, 

Yenikale, 

Kertchy, 

Sultanovka, 

Aegibin, 

Caffa, 

Karasubazar, 

Akmetchet, 

Akmetchet, 

Akmetchet, 

Akmetchet, 


Observation  in  London 
When  made.              on  the  same  Day. 

June  24,  1800. 

72° 

June  25. 

73 

June  26. 

68 

June  27. 

72 

June  28. 

69 

June  29. 

69 

June  30. 

72 

July    1. 

67 

July    2. 

75 

July    3. 

71 

July   4. 

71 

July    5. 

69 

July    6. 

75 

July    7. 

76 

July    8. 

77 

July    p. 

77 

July  10. 

71 

July  1  1  . 

74 

July  12. 

76 

July  13. 

68 

July  14. 

66 

July  15. 

71 

July  16. 

79 

July  17. 

79 

July  18. 

77 

July  19. 

74 

July  20. 

73 

July  21. 

74 

July  22. 

73 

July  23. 

79 

July  24. 

79 

July  25. 

75 

July  26. 

72 

July  27. 

69 

APPENDIX,    N°  V. 


517 


ration  on  the 
>f  Fahrenheit.        Where  made. 

Observation  in  London 
When  made.              on  the  same  Day. 

77° 

Akmetchet, 

July  28,  1800. 

71° 

72 

Akmetchet, 

July  29. 

70 

74 

Akmetchet, 

July  30. 

78 

77 

Akmetchet, 

July  31. 

81 

82 

Baktcheserai, 

Aug.    1. 

85 

85 

Aktiar, 

Aug.    2. 

88 

82 

Aktiar, 

Aug.    3. 

84 

87 

Balaclava, 

Aug.   4. 

75 

81 

Savtaxy, 

Aug.    5. 

66 

82 

Aloupka, 

Aug.  6. 

76 

86 

Ai'udagh, 

Aug.   7. 

72 

81 

Alusta, 

Aug.   8. 

74 

80 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.   9. 

78 

81 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  10. 

78 

80 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  11. 

85 

75 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  12. 

83 

73 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  13. 

77 

80 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  14. 

77 

70 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  15. 

83 

73 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  16. 

78 

80 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  17- 

82 

73 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  18. 

82 

81 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  19. 

79 

83 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  20. 

80 

85 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  21. 

68 

89 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  22. 

55 

83 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  23. 

55 

83 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  24. 

58 

89 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  25. 

65 

90 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  26. 

64 

88 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  27. 

62 

R8 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  28. 

65 

Ow 

83 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  29. 

69 

88 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  30. 

70 

L  2 


518 


APPENDIX,    N°  V. 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit.      Where  made. 

Observation  in  London 
When  made.           on  the  tame  Day. 

88° 

Akmetchet, 

Aug.  31,  1800. 

70°. 

77 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.    1. 

67 

70 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.    2. 

68 

75 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.    3. 

69 

65 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.    4. 

72 

65 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.    5. 

59 

79 

Near  Akmetchet, 

Sept.    6. 

65 

79 

Mountain  above  Balaclava, 

Sept.    7- 

60 

81 

Ruins  near  Balaclava, 

Sept.    8. 

69 

81 

Shulu, 

Sept.    9. 

69 

83 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  10. 

67 

77 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  11. 

67 

65 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  12. 

69 

63 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  13. 

64 

57 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  14. 

69 

63 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  15. 

72 

75 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  16. 

75 

68 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  17. 

71 

70 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  18. 

71 

72 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  lp. 

66 

77 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  2O. 

66 

70 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  21. 

65 

68 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  22. 

65 

78 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  23. 

62 

75 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  24. 

62 

70 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  25. 

56 

72 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  26. 

60 

77 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  27. 

62 

68 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  23. 

59 

57 

Koslof, 

Sept.  29. 

61 

53 

Akmetchet, 

Sept.  30. 

58 

53 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    l. 

57 

59 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    2. 

65 

57 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    3. 

61 

APPENDIX,  N°  V.  519 


Observation  on  the 

Observation  in  London 

Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 

Where  made. 

When  made. 

on  the  tame  Pay. 

59° 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    4,  1800. 

56° 

53 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    5. 

58 

54 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    6. 

53 

56 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    7. 

60 

68 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    8. 

162 

73 

Akmetchet, 

Oct.    9. 

59 

75 

Steppes  near  Akmetchet, 

Oct.  10. 

54 

75 

Chaplinky, 

Oct.  11. 

56 

73 

Chahinka, 

Oct.  12. 

51 

59 

Cherson, 

Oct.  13. 

56 

59 

Kopenskai, 

Oct.  14. 

55 

59 

Nicholaef, 

Oct.  15. 

56 

59 

Banks  of  the  Bog, 

Oct.  16. 

53 

55 

Angelica, 

Oct.  17- 

54 

53 

Odessa, 

Oct.  IS. 

56 

55 

Odessa, 

Oct.  19. 

54 

53 

Odessa, 

Oct.  20. 

56 

59 

Odessa, 

Oct.  21. 

54 

64 

Odessa, 

Oct.  22. 

45 

62 

Odessa, 

Oct.  23. 

50 

57 

Odessa, 

Oct.  24. 

53 

50 

Odessa, 

Oct.  25. 

52 

52 

Odessa, 

Oct.  26. 

55 

50 

Odessa, 

Oct.  27. 

49 

44 

Odessa, 

Oct.  28. 

52 

46 

Odessa, 

Oct.  29. 

51 

57 

Odessa, 

Oct.  30. 

54 

48 

Black  Sea  near  Odessa, 

Oct.  31. 

52 

50 

Black  Sea,  Lat.  44°.  44'. 

Nov.    1. 

52 

56 

Black  Sea,  Lat.  44°.  23'. 

Nov.    2. 

52 

53 

Black  Sea,  Lat.  unknown, 

Nov.    3. 

47 

51 

Black  Sea,  Lat.  unknown, 

Nov.    4. 

47 

53 

Black  Sea,  Lat.  unknown, 

Nov.    5. 

48 

520  APPENDIX,    N°V. 


Observation  on  the 
Scale  of  Fahrenheit. 


65 
59 

53 

56 

60 
53 
60 
67 
55 
53 
54 
54 
64 
63 
61 

50 

47 
47 
47 
49 
51 
53 
51 
57 
60 
59 
54 
57 


:he                                                                                                   Observation  in  London 
leit.        Where  made.                                           When  made.              on  the  same  Day. 

(  Black  Sea,  4  Leagues  from  -> 
\       «      .'~                         £Nov.    6,  1800. 
I      Canal  of  Constantinople,  J 

49° 

{Black  Sea,  4  Leagues  from  •)  „. 
«.  Nov.    7- 
Canal  of  Constantinople,  J 

52 

{Black  Sea,  8  Leagues  from  -> 
Canal  of  Constantinople,    / 

53 

{Black  Sea,  off  Cape  Noir.  •>  „. 
,              >  Nov.    9. 
Lat.  41°.  30. 

47 

Ibid.  Lat.  42°.  0'.                     Nov.  10. 

51 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Nov.  1  1  . 

59 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                  Nov.  12. 

46 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                  Nov.  13. 

45 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Nov.  14. 

55 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                  Nov.  15. 

52 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Nov.  16. 

50 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Nov.  17- 

47 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Nov.  18. 

46 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                 Ncv.  ip. 

44 

Harbour  of  Ineada,                  Nov.  20. 

44 

C  Off  the  Canal  of  ConO  NQV  2J 
*•      stantinople, 

42 

Canal  of  Constantinople,         Nov.  22. 

44 

Constantinople,                        Nov..  23. 

50 

Constantinople,                       Nov.  24. 

48 

Constantinople,                        Nov.  25. 

42 

Constantinople,                        Nov.  26. 

39 

Constantinople,                         Nov.  27. 

37 

Constantinople,                         Nov.  2S. 

38 

Constantinople,                        Nov.  20. 

42 

Constantinople,                        Nov.  30. 

46 

Constantinople,                       Dec.    1. 

43 

Constantinople,                         Dec.    2. 

43 

Constantinople,                       Dec.    3. 

40 

APPENDIX,    N°V.  521 


ofFahren 

licit.       Where  made. 

VIJBC. 

When  made.             on 

the  same  Da 

59° 

Constantinople, 

Dec.    4,  1800. 

38° 

57 

Constantinople, 

Dec.   5. 

37 

57 

Constantinople, 

Dec.    6. 

39 

59 

Constantinople, 

Dec.    7. 

37 

59 

Constantinople, 

Dec.    8. 

39 

58 

Constantinople, 

Dec.    9. 

38 

57 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  10. 

34 

57 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  11. 

43 

52 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  12. 

46 

50 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  13. 

46 

52 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  14. 

49 

50 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  15. 

45 

48 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  16. 

44 

43 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  17- 

38 

38 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  18. 

37 

35 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  19. 

39 

33 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  20. 

50 

42 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  21. 

51 

35 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  22. 

49 

36 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  23. 

48 

41 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  24. 

49 

47 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  25. 

44 

50 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  26. 

39 

50 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  27. 

40 

53 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  28. 

39 

50 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  29. 

42 

49 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  30. 

31 

51 

Constantinople, 

Dec.  31. 

34 

522 


APPENDIX,    N°VI. 


No.  VI. 


NAMES  OF  PLACES 

VISITED    IN    THE    AUTHOR'S    ROUTE, 

WITH 

THEIR    DISTANCES    FROM    EACH    OTHER, 

IN 
RUSSIAN  VERSTS  AND  ENGLISH  MILES. 


Jtuss.  Eng. 

Vents.  Miles. 

From  Petersburg  to 

Novogorod      .    .     .     .180  —  120 

JTver 888  —  258f 

Moscow 162 —  108 

Molodtzy 27  —  18 

Celo  Molody  ....     25  —  IGf 

Grischinka       ....     21  —  14 

Serpuchof 24  —  16 

Celo  Zavody   ....     34  —  22f 

Vaszany 21  —  14 

Celo  Volotia    ....     22  —  14  J 

Tula 13  —  8f 

Dedilof 33  —  22 

Boghoroditz    ....     25  —  1 6f 

Celo  Nikitzkoy    ...     25  —  16f 

Bolshoy  Platy      ...     27  —  18 

Effremof 18 —  12 

Nikolaijevka    ....     22  —  14f 

Celo  Petrovskia  Palnia,      19—  12| 

Eletz 29—  19| 

Carried  forward     .   1115 —  743  J 


Ross. 
Verst*. 


Eng. 
M  iles. 


Brought  forward    .  1115  — 

Ezvoly 22  — 

Zadonetz 18  — 

Celo  Chlebnoy       ...  30  — 

Beztuzevka        .     .     .     .  17  — 

Celo  Staroy  Ivotinskoy    .  18  — 

Woronetz 25  — 

Celo  Usmany  .     .      .     .  15  — 

Podulok  Moscovskoy       .  25  — 

Mojocks         12  — 

Ekortzy 25  — 

lestakovo 35  — 

Locova  Sloboda      .     .     .  15  — 

Paulovskoy        ....  22  — 

Kazinskoy  Chutor       .     .  21  — 

Nizney  Momon      .     .     .  22  — 

Dobrinka 30  — 

Metscha        16  —      10^ 

*  Lapok 15  —      1O 

Carried  forward     .   1498  —    998| 


*  Not  in  the  regular  route. 


APPENDIX,    N°  VI. 


523 


Rust. 


Brought  forward    .   1498 

Kasankaia  Stanitza     .     .  15 

Tichaia    ......  30 

Verchnia  (upper)  Lazovaia    22 

Niznia  flower  J  Lazovaia.  28 

Acenovskaia      ....  25 

Suchovskaia       .     .     .     .  21 

Rossochinskaia  ....  25 

Pichovskaia  .....  25 

Kamenskaia      ....  26 

Dubovskaia  .....  25 

Grivenskaia  .....  26 

Tchestibaloshnia     ...  26 

Tuslovskaia       ....  27 

Axay  .......  27 

Tcherchask,  by  water      .  15 

Axay,  by  ditto  ....  15 

Azof,  by  ditto    ....  45 

Taganrog,  by  ditto      .     .   100 

Chumburskaia  ....  45 

Margaritovskaia     ...  3 

Ae'skoy   ......  37 

Cherubinovskoy      ...  7 

Aesinkoy      .....  25 


Eng. 
Miles. 

998f 
10 
20 


16f 

14 

16f 

1  6f 

17J 

1  6f 

1  7|- 

17f- 

18 

18 

10 

10 

30 

66f 

80 

2 
24f 

4$ 
16f 
23£ 
20 
20 
1  6f 


Albaskoy       .....  35 

Chalbaskoy  .....  30 

Protchalnoy       ....  30 

Beyseaukoy       ....  25 

Sirpiltzy  ......  35—  23£ 

Kirperenska      ....  7  —  4f 

Katachibba  .....  18—  12 

Ponoura       .....  17—  11£ 

Ekaterinedara  ....  25  —  16f 

Vydnia    ......  25—  16f 

Mechastovskoy       ...  20  —  13£ 

Kara  Kuban     ....  25  —  16$ 

Carried  forward     .  2430  —  1620 


26  — 

18  — 
10  — 
28  — 
22  — 


Parporzy 28  — 

Caffa 22  — 

Kiernitchy 24  — 

Bournuduk        ....  23  — 

Karasubazar      ....  22  — 

Uia 21  — 

Akmetchet 21  — 

Baktcheserai      ....  30  — 


16f 


Runs.         Eng. 
Vents,       Miles. 

Brought  forward    .  2430  —  1620 

Kopil 25—      16f 

Kalaus 25 

Kourky    ......     35 

Temrook 35 

Sienna 35 

Taman 25 

Voyage  on  the  Sea  of 

Azof,  and  return 
Passage  to  Yenikale  . 
Kertchy        .     .... 
Sultanovska       .     .     . 
Arghuine      .... 


12 

ef 


18f 
14f 
16 


14 
14 

20 
21f 

16 
8 


Aktiar      ......  32 — 

Monastery  of  St.  George,  7  _ 
and  return    .     .     .     .  J 

Balaclava 12  — 

Kutchuck  Moscomia  .     .  7  —  4f 

Savtick 7  —  4f 

Kutchuckoy      ....  15  —  10 

Aloupka 15—  10 

Yourzova 15  —  10 

Kour  Koulet     ....  7  —  4f 

Alusta 25—  16f 

Yenikeuy 15—  10 

Akmetchet 15—  10 

Katcha 34—  22f 

Sh{il6 20—  13$ 

Carried  forward     .  3148  —  2098$ 


524 


APPENDIX,  "N*  VI. 


Kust.  Eng. 

Yentt.  Miles. 

Drought  forward    .  3148  —  2098  j 

Alexiano's  Chouter     .     .     36  —  24 

Tchorgona 28—  ISf 

Shulu       ......       8—  5£ 

Kodja  Sala 5  —  S£ 

Mankoop 4—  2f 

Kara  Ikes 8  —  5j 

Katcha 10—  6§ 

Akmetchet 34—  22f 

Koslof 64—  42f 

Akmetchet    .     .     .     .     .     64—  ,42f 

Meranchuk  .     ....     26  —  17J 

Ablania 16  —  lOf 

Ibaira 22—  14f 

Burmen 24  —  16 

Ishuns 19  —  12f 

Perecop 26  —  17f- 

Chaplinky 25—  16$ 

Techordonalin  ....     25  —  16f 

Kouka 30 —  2O 

Biroslaf 10 —  6f 

Chalanka 28  —  18f 

Carried  forward    .  3660  —  244O 


Rust. 

f't-nti. 


Ens. 
Miles. 


Brought  for  ward    .  3660  —  2440 

Ingoulitz 19 —  12f 

Cherson 18  —  12 

Kopenskai 32 —  21  £ 

Nicholaef 30  —  20 

River  Bog 4  —  2f 

Ferry  over  ditto      ...       4  —  2f 

Authecra 25 —  16| 

Sasiska 21  —  14 

Kalegulska 28  —  ISf 

Angelica 21  —  14 

Odessa 18 —  12 

3880  =  2586f 

Voyage  across  the  Black 
Sea  to  Constantinople, 
in  a  direct  line  from 
Odessa,  does  not  exceed 
300  Leagues;  but  from 
our  deviations,  return 

from  the  Canal  to  Ine-  w 

Leagues.  Miles. 

ada,  &c.  it  equalled     .  500  —  150O 


Total  of  Distance  in  the  Author's  Route-* 
from  Petersburg  to  Constantinople     .  $ 


.      .   Miles  .  .  40S6f 


END  OF  PART  THE  FIRST: 
Containing  Travels  in  Russia,  Tahtary,  and  Turkey. 


INDEX 

TO 

PART   THE   FIRST. 


V  The  Roman  Numerals,  i.ii.  refer  to  the  Volumes:  the  Arabic  Figures 
to  the  Pages  in  each  Volume. 


ADR1ANQPLE)  Mountaineers  of,  manners  of,  ii. 417,418. 

Ae,  River,  notice  of,  ii.  3. 

Agriculture  of  the  Crim  Tahtars,  ii.  248,  249. 

Aia  Btfrun,  or  the  Holy  Promontory,  account  of,  ii.  286 — 289. 

Ai'vdagh,  Promontory  of,  notice  of,  ii.  258. 

Akmetchet,  unwholesome  situation  of,  ii.  165. 

Aktiar,  Russian  name  of,  ii.  198.     the  Ctenus  of  Strabo,  ibid.     Present 

state  of,  199 — 202.     Advantages  of  its  port,  200  note. 
Alexander  the  Great,   Pillars  erected  by,  in  the  territory  of  the  Don 

Cossacks,  i.  358.     Altars  erected  by  him,  41 1,  412. 
Atexiano's  Chouter,  a  wretched  village  in  the  Crimea,  description  of, 

ii.292. 

Aloupha,  Village  of,  described,  ii.248 — 250. 
Altyn  Obo,  or  Tomb  of  Mithradates,  description  of,  ii.  112 — 114.    View 

thence  of  the  Cimmerian  Straits,  115. 
Ambrose,  Archbishop  of  Moscow,  assassinated,  i.100. 
Amusements  of  the  Russians,  i.  96.     of  the  Don  Cossacks,  306.     of  the 

Calmucks,  319. 
Anapa,  Pasha  of,  mediates  peace  between  the  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea 

and  the  Circassians,  ii.24 — 30.  Conversation  of,  with  the  author,  33. 
Antiquities,   found  in  the  territory  of  the  Don  Cossacks,   i.  358,  359. 

near  Taganrog,  440.      Grecian,  in  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  ii.  G8, 

70,77.     atYenikale",    102,103.     at  Kertchy,   117— 1 '9.     at  Stara 

Crim,  154—156.    of  the  Minor  Heracleotic  Peninsula,  210— 218,285. 

of  the  Thracian  Bosporus,  438—442. 
Apples,  benediction  of,  i.  207- 
Arches,  antiquity  of,  ii.  71. 
Armenian  Colony  of  Nakhtshivan,  i.397— 3H9-     Enterprising  character 

of  the  Armenian  merchants,  402, 403.    Arrangement  of  their  shops, 


rNDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

404.    Origin  of  this  establishment,  407-     Superb  dress  of  Armenian 

women  at  Astrachan,  405  note. 
Arms  of  Novogorod,  i.  38.    Manufacture  of  arms  at  Tula,  238,  239. 

of  the  Calmucks,  318. 

Army,  Russian,  Catechism  of,  ii.457 — 468. 
Asander,  Vallum  of,  ii.  140 — 142. 
Ascension,  Festival  of,  how  celebrated,  i.  170. 
Atmosphere,  temperature  of,  during  the  author's  travels,  ii.  510 — 519, 

O 

Axay,   a  Cossack  capital,    public  entry  of  the  author   into,    i.  344. 

his  hospitable  reception  there,  345,  346.     etymology  of  the  word, 

448,  449. 
Azof,  fortress  of,  described,   i.  413,  414.     The  probable  site  of  the 

antient  city  of  Tanais,  415,416.     condition  of  the  Garrison,  417, 418. 

The  author's  departure  thence,  42 1 .    Remarkable  phenomenon  in  the 

Sea  of  Azof,  423.     notice  of  rivers  falling  into  it,  484. 

Baldar,  Valley,  description  of,  ii.  242 — 244. 

Baktchesarai,  the  Tahtar  capital  of  the  Crimea,  novel  appearance  of, 
ii.  170.  fountains,  ibid.  171.  Devotion  of  the  Tahtars,  171.  De- 
struction caused  by  the  Russian  troops,  172.  Description  of  the 
Palace  of  the  Khan,  180 — 1 82.  preparations  made  there  for  receiving 
the  Empress  Catherine,  182.  Description  of  the  Charem,  183,  184. 
brief  account  of,  by  Mr.  Heber,  194,  195  note. 

Balaclava,  antient  ruins  at,  ii.218,  2J9-  present  state  of  the  town 
and  port  of,  220 — 222.  Genoese  fortress  there,  222,  223.  Fruit 
shops,  229.  Manners  of  the  inhabitants,  230. 

Balls,  Russian,  description  of: — Ball  of  the  peasants,  i.76 — 80.  of 
the  nobles,  81 — 85. 

Baltic  and  Euxine  Seas,  account  of  water  communication  between, 
5.486  et  seq. 

Banquets  of  the  Russian  Nobles,  i.  209,  210. 

Basaltic  Pillars,  in  the  harbour  of  Ineada,  account  of,  ii.  418,  419- 
theory  of  their  origin,  420. 

Baths,  Public,  at  Moscow,  described,  i.  184,  185.  Process  of  bathing, 
186 — 188.  National  importance  of  public  baths,  188 — 190.  Ruins 
of  ancient  baths  at  Stara  Crim,  ii.  154 — 156. 

Bell,  the  Great  one  of  Moscow,  described,  i.  149,  150,  447.  super- 
stitious visits  to  it,  151.  its  measurement,  152,  153,  and  note. 

Beloozero,  Lake,  notice  of,  i.  505.     rivers  falling  into  it,  505,  506. 

Benediction  of  apples,  i.207-     of  bread,  367,  368. 

Beresanskoy,  Gulph  of,  i.  478. 

Beresenskoy,  Canal,  notice  of,  i.  486. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Beresina,  River,  notice  of,  i.  470. 

Biberstein,  Marshal,  Botanical  researches  of,  ii.  308, 309. 

Billings,  Commodore,  anecdote  of  his  expedition,  i.20.  his'unhaml- 
some  treatment  of  the  author,  201,  202,  208. 

Biroke,  an  animal  peculiar  to  the  Steppes,  description  of,  i.329. 

Biroslafy   Village,  account  of,   ii.331,  332.      Plants  collected   in  its 

.    vicinity,  332  note. 

Black  Sea,  canal  of  communication  between,  and  the  Caspian  Sea, 
i.  431.  report  on  the  navigation  of,  464  etseq.  erroneous  account 
of,  by  Tournefort,  ii.  387.  Dangers  of  that  sea,  388,  389.  English 
Commerce  in  that  sea,  390,  469 — 487.  Journal  of  the  author's 
voyage  down  that  sea  to  the  harbour  of  Ineada,  392 — 409,  488 — 502. 

Boats  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  structure  of,  i.  359. 

JBobac  of  the  Steppes,  account  of,  i.  325,  326 — 328. 

Bog,  River,  account  of,  i.475.  notice  of  rivers  falling  into  it,  ibid. 
476,  477,  531—533. 

Bogh,  Russian,  adoration  of,  i.  31. 

Boglioroditz,  town  of,  notice  of,  i.  248,  249. 

Booksellers' Shops,  at  Moscow,  i.  90,  01- 

Borantzky,  cataracts  of,  i.  494. 

Bosporus.     See  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  and  Thracian  Bosporus. 

Botanic  Garden  of  Peter  the  Great,  i.  265. 

Botterline,  Count,  library  of,  i.  178.  his  botanic  garden  described, 
179,  180.  philosophical  instruments,  180. 

Brandy,  how  prepared  from  the  milk  of  mares,  i.  314. 

Buldera,  River,  notice  of,  i.  525,  526. 

Caffa,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  ii.  142.  present  state  of,  130 — 132 
note,  144.  barbarous  conduct  of  the  Russians  there,  131  note, 
144,145 — 147.  Inscriptions,  147 — 149-  Distribution  of  the  town, 
150.  Antient  edifice  converted  into  a  church,  151,  152.  Departure 
from  Caffa,  153. 

Calmuck  Camp,  description  of,  i.  310 — 312,  340.  Koumiss  and  brandy 
prepared  by  the  Calmucks  from  mares'-milk,  312—314.  Descrip- 
tion of  their  tents,  315.  Their  personal  appearance  and  character, 
316.  Portrait  of  their  women,  317-  Curious  mode  of  dressing 
steaks  of  horse-flesh,  ibid.  Arts,  armour,  and  weapons,  318.  Re- 
creations and  conditions  of  life,  319,  320.  Diseases  prevalent  among 
them,  321.  Settlements  of  the  Calmucks  near  Taganrog,  433. 
their  marriage  ceremony,  ibid.  434.  Consecrated  ensigns  of  the 
Calmuck  Law,  434,  435.  Difference  between  their  vulgar  and 
sacred  writings,  436.  Their  numbers,  437.  , 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Canal  of  Constantinople,  entrance  to,  ii.  426.     magnificent  scenery  on 

its  shores,  427 — 429. 
Canals,    Russian,    account    of,    i.  453    et   seq.      Canal    of  Vyshney 

Voloshok,  453.     Vilievsky  Canal,  ibid.     Novogorodsky  Canal,  454. 

IVfariensky   Canal,    456.      Saskoy   Canal,    459,  460.      Project  for 

circuitous  canals  round  the  Lakes  Ladoga  and  Onega,  461.  Northern 

Katherinskoy  Canal,  461.    Beresenskoy  Canal,  486.     Oginsky  Canal, 

487.     Canal  of  Ladoga,  496. 

Cape  of  the  Winds,  probable  origin  and  uses  of,  ii.  279,  280. 
Caravans  of  the  Crimea,  account  of,  ii.  317,  330. 
Caspian  Sea,  Canal  of  communication  between,  and  the  Black  Sea, 

projected,  i.  431. 
Cataracts  of  the   Dnieper,  i.  465,  466,   438.     of  the  Dniester,  489. 

of  Borovitzky,  494.     of  Volchof,  458,  495. 
Catecttism  of  the  Russian  army,  ii.  457—468. 
Catherine,  the  Empress,  anecdotes  of,  i.  19,  20.     Her  establishments 

and  other  measures  overthrown  by  Paul,  i.  239-     Her  artifices   to 

conceal  the  real  state  of   Russia  from  being  known,  ii.  125,  126. 

Villa  of,  at  Stara  Crim,   157.     Preparations  for  her  reception  at 

Baktchesarai,  182. 

Caucasian  Mountains,  view  of,  ii.  16,  17. 
Caucasus,  state  of  travelling  in,  ii.  49. 

Caverns  of  Inkerman,  account  of,  ii.  202—206.     of  Shulu,  282. 
Celo  Molody,  village  of,  i.  229. 

Nildtzkoy,  village  of,  i.  250. 

Petrovskia  Palnia,  singular  phenomenon  at,  i.  253. 

Usmany,  account  of,  i.  281,  282. 

Censors,  public,  at  Moscow,  account  of,  i.  127- 

Cepoe  Milesiarum,    antient  town   of,  discovered,    ii.  77.      antiquities 

there,  78. 

Chumburskaia,  village  of,  described,  i.  444,  445. 
CJiampagne  Wine,  successful  imitation  of,  i.  263  note. 
Charem,  Tahtar,  description  of,  ii.  183. 
Cherson,  antient  state  of,  ii.  451,  452.     present   state  of,    333  note. 

causes  of  its  decay,  334,  335.     Tomb  of  Potemkin,  336.    narrative 

of  his  burial,  337-     recent  disposal  of  his   body,  338.     Tomb   of 

Howard,  346—348. 
Cliersonesus,  ruins  of  the  antient  city  of,  ii.  211 — 216.     Ruins  of  the 

old  Chersonesus  of  Strabo,  293. 

Cltersonesus,  Peninsula  of.     See  Heracleotic  Chersonesus. 
diaper,  River,  notice  of,  i.  485.    rivers  falling  into  it,  ibid. 
Christening,  Russian,  described,  205  note.    . 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Churches,  first,  in  Russia,  i.  34,  35.  Antient  Greek  church  excavated 
in  a  rock,  ii.  188. 

Cimmerian  Bosporus,  importance  of  to  antient  Athens,  ii.  €3.  Deri- 
vation of  the  word  Bosporus,  65.  Volcanic  island  at  Temrook,  66. 
Site  of  the  antient  Cimmerium,  67.  antiquities  there,  68—74. 
Origin  of  temples,  75.  Site  of  the  antient  Cepoe,  77.  Antient 
monument  erected  by  Comosarya,  a  queen  of  the  Bosporus,  78 — 80. 
New  fortress  of  Taman,  80,  81.  Ruins  of  Phanagoria,  82 — 89. 
Inscriptions,  90 — 96.  View  of  the  Cimmerian  Straits,  115. 

Circassians,  the  original  stock  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  i.  377,  378. 
Manners  of  the  modern  Circassians,  379,  380.  causes  and  termi- 
nation of  their  war  with  the  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea,  ii.  22 — 24. 
peparations  for  making  peace,  26,  27-  ceremony  of  concluding  it, 
28 — 30.  Appearance  and  dress  of  the  Circassian  Princes,  30 — 32. 
Peasants  of  Circassia,  34 — 38.  their  music,  40.  dances,  41,  42. 
account  of  their  language,  42,  43.  Character  of  the  Lesgi,  a  Cir- 
cassian tribe,  44.  remarkable  instance  of  bravery  in  one,  45. 
Circassian  women,  46.  Commerce  of  the  Circassians  with  the 
Tchernomorski  Cossacks,  48.  their  skill  in  horsemanship,  ibid. 
General  appearance  of  the  Circassian  territory,  61.  Watch- 
towers,  62. 

Clarke,  Dr.  E.  D.,  unpleasant  situation  of,  in  Russia,  i.4,  451,  452. 
is  advised  to  quit  Petersburg  for  Moscow,  4.  his  journey  thence  to 
Moscow,  13  et  seq.  arrives  at  Novogorod,  25.  and  at  Moscow, 
52.  his  impressions  on  entering  that  city,  54 — 56,  59 — 61.  his 
dilemma  at  a  Russian  ball,  84.  account  of  his  visit  to  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Moscow,  193 — 200.  departs  from  Moscow,  228.  arrives 
atWoronetz,  259.  adventure  of,  at  Paulovskoy,  290,291.  enters 
the  country  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  295.  account  of  his  journey  over 
the  Steppes,  308,  309.  makes  a  public  entry  into  the  capital  of 
the  Don  Cossacks,  343.  Voyage  of,  down  the  Don  to  Azof  and 
Taganrog,  394 — 425.  perilous  voyage  across  the  sea  of  Azof,  442 — 
444.  emotions  on  entering  Asia,  445.  journey  through  Kuban 
Tahtary  to  the  frontier  of  Circassia,  ii.  1 — 50.  second  excursion 
into  Circassia,  52—54.  crosses  the  Straits  of  the  Cimmerian  Bos- 
porus to  Caffa,  93—142.  journey  from  Caffa  to  the  capital  of  the 
Crimea,  144—195.  his  hospitable  reception  by  Professor  Pallas, 
160—164.  journey  from  the  capital  of  the  Crimea  to  the  Heracleotic 
Chersonesus,  196—230.  journey  thence  along  the  south  coast  of 
the  Crimea,  231 — 272.  is  accompanied  by  Professor  Pallas  on  his 
second  excursion  to  the  Minor  Peninsula  of  the  Heracleotae,  ii.  274. 
account  of  that  excursion,  275—300.  journey  from  the  Crimea,  by 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

the  Isthmus  of  Perekop,  to  Nicholaef,  302 — 350.  progress  thence 
to  Odessa,  351 — 381.  voyage  to  Ineada,  382— 421.  and  thence  to 
Constantinople,  422 — 450.  list  of  plants  collected  by,  in  the 
Crimea,  504 — 512.  itinerary  of  places  visited  by  him,  and  their 
distances,  522—524. 

Climate  of  the  Crimea,  danger  of,  ii.  296.  extraordinary  temperature 
of  climate  in  the  Black  Sea,  390. 

Ccemetery,  beautiful,  of  the  Jews  at  Dschoufoutkal^,  ii.  188, 189. 

Coins  of  Vladimir  the  Great,  ii.  2i>0.     See  Medals. 

Commerce  of  VVoronetz,  account  of,  i.  269 — 271.  of  Tcherkask,  380. 
of  the  Circassians  with  the  Tchernomorski,  ii.  48,  52.  State  of 
English  commerce  in  the  Black  Sea,  390,  469 — 487.  State  of 
Turkish  commerce,  447 — 450. 

Comosarya,  Queen  of  the  Bosporus,  ancient  monument  erected  by, 
iu78,  79. 

Constantinople,  account  of  the  land-passage  to,  ii.  379 — 38 1 .  entrance 
to  the  canal  of,  426.  magnificent  scenery  on  its  banks,  427—429. 
approach  to,  443,  444.  disgusting  appearance  of  the  streets,  445. 
state  of  Turkish  commerce  there,  447—450. 

Convent  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  described,  i.  123 — 126.  of  the  Trinity, 
at  Moscow,  128.  of  Nicoll  na  Perrera,  194,200. 

Cossacks,  honesty  of,  i.  273.  Cossack  stragglers  from  the  army,  333. 
Distinction  between  Cossacks  of  the  Steppes  and  of  the  Don,  334. 
superiority  of  their  character  over  the  Russians,  ii.  9,  and  note. 

Cossacks  of  the  Bjack  Sea,  or  Tchernomorski,  origin  of,  ii.  5  note, 
cause  of  their  migration  to  Kuban  Tahtary,  4.  services  rendered  by 
them  to  Russia,  5,  fi.  distinguished  from  the  Don  Cossacks,  7,  8. 
appearance  of  stragglers  from  the  army,  15.  Size  and  beauty  of 
the  Cossack  cattle,  ibid.  Account  of  their  capital,  Ekaterinadera, 
18,  19.  their  manners,  20.  dress  and  external  appearance,  ibid. 
Visit  from  their  Ataman  to  Dr.  Clarke,  21.  Causes  and  success  of 
their  war  with  the  Circassians,  22 — 24.  preparations  for  making 
peace,  26,  27-  ceremony  of  concluding  it,  28 — 30.  their  com- 
merce with  the  Circassians,  48,  52.  their  revengeful  spirit,  54  note. 

Cossacks,  Don.     See  Don  Cossacks. 

Costumeof  the  Russian  peasants,  i.  4 1,44.  of  the  Russians  generally,  95. 

Courier,  intrepid  conduct  of,  ii.  328, 329. 

Courland,  Rivers  of,  i.  525,  526. 

Crimea,  ravages  committed  in,  by  the  Russians,  ii.  124,  125.  antient 
topography  of,  why  involved  in  obscurity,  127 — 129.  swarms  of 
locusts  there,  133 — 135.  venomous  insects,  136.  Gipsies  found 
there,  137.  Manners,  dress,  &c.  of  the  Tahtar  Gentlemen,  139,140. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Account  of  Caffa,  130—132,  nn.  144 — 153.  Antiquities  of  Star* 
Crim,  154 — 156.  account  of  its  principal  towns — Karasubazar,  159, 
Akraetchet,  160 — 165.  Baktchesarai,  169,  180 — 183.  Causes  which 
led  to  the  deposition  and  death  of  the  Khan,  173 — 178.  Conse- 
quences of  the  capture  of  the  Crimea,  179,  180.  Fortress  of  Dsehou- 
foutkale",  185.  Account  of  Aktiar,  \<>9— 202.  of  Balaclava,  218— 222. 
Genoese  fortress,  222.  Geology  of  the  Crimea,  2C23 — 228.  Excur- 
sion along  the  south  coast  of  the  Crimea,  231.  Valley  of  Baidar,  232. 
Domestic" manners  and  habits  of  the  CrimTahtars,  236.  Plants  and 
minerals,  242.  Criu-Metopon,  240'.  Aloupka,  248.  Other  villages 
on  the  coast,  251-  Promontory  of  Ai'vdagh,  C58.  Parthenit,  259. 
Tchetirdagh,  260.  Military  force  of  the  Crimea,  268.  General 
survey  of  the  Crimea,  321.  Country  north  of  the  isthmus,  ibid. 

Cripps,  Mr.  the  friend  and  travelling  companion  of  Dr.  Clarke,  adven- 
ture of,  i.325.  his  sufferings  from  the  attacks  of  mosquitoes, 
ii.60,61. 

Crid-Metopon,  antient  promontory  of,  described,  ii.  246.  beautiful 
views  thence,  247- 

Ctenus,  site  of,  ascertained,  ii.  108,  199. 

Cucumbers  of  extraordinary  size,  account  of,  ii.  169. 

Cyanean  Islands,  present  appearance  of,  ii.  431.  description  of  a 
votive  altar  on  one,  433—435.  singular  breccia  found  there,  436. 

Danactz,  River,  notice  of,  i.484. 

Dances  of  the  Russian  Gipsies,  i.  79, 80.  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  306.  -  of 
the  Circassians,  ii.31. 

Danube,  Mouths  of,  appearance  of,  ii.  401. 

Darius,  probable  situation  of,  when  he  surveyed  the  Euxine,  ii.439. 

Dashkof  (Princess;  mean  conduct  of,  i. 43 1,432. 

Decorations  (barbarous)  of  the  palace  of  Tsarsko-selo,  k22 — 24. 

Dedilof,  Town  of,  described,  i.  246,247- 

Demetry  Rastnf  (St,)  Fortress  of,  i. 408,  409. 

Desna,  River,  account  of,  i.  472. 

Dinner,  barbarous  etiquette  of,  in  Russia,  i.  211,212.  Curious  anec- 
dote of  tvyo  English  gentlemen  at  a  Russian  dinner,  213. 

Diseases,  prevalent  among  the  Don  Cossacks;  i.39l. 

Dnieper,  River,  account  of  the  navigation  of,  i.  464 — 469.  cataracts 
of,  465, 466',  488.  account  of  the  streams  that  fall  into  it,  469 — 477. 

Dniester,  River,  account  of  the  navigation  of,  i.  480 — 482.  notice  of 
rivers  falling  into  it,  482, 483.  Cataract  of  Yampolskin,  489. 

Dolrinka,  Village  of,  described,  i.294. 

Don,  River,  voyage  down,  i.  304.  fishes  caught  therein,  305, 360.  view 
VOL.  II.  2  M 


INDEX  TO   PART  THE   FIRST. 

of  the  river,  343.  Analogy  between  the  Don  and  the  Nile,  355, 
356,  423.  Length  and  course  of  the  Don,  356,  357.  Voyage  down 
the  Don  to  Azof  and  Taganrog,  394 — 425.  Division  of  the  Don,  411. 
project  for  uniting  it  with  the  Volga,  462, 463.  account  of  its  navi- 
gation, 484.  rivers  falling  into  it,  ibid.  485. 

Don  Cossacks,  Origin  of,  i.  368 — 374.  causes  of  their  increase,  374 — 377. 
population  of  their  territory,  347,  332,  383,  aotes.  appearance  of, 
at  Kasankaia,  i.298.  house  of  the  Ataman  described,  299,  300. 
ideal  dangers  of  travelling  in  their  country-,  301 — 303.  amusements 
and  dances  of  the  people,  304, 305.  difference  between  the  Don 
Cossacks,  and  the  Cossacks  of  the  Steppes,  334.  public  entry  of 
the  author  into  their  capital,  Axay,  344.  their  hospitable  reception 
of  him,  ibid.  345 — 347.  celebration  of  a  court  festival,  350 — 352. 
mode  of  fasting,  353.  state  of  education  among  them,  355  note. 
Natural  curiosities  and  antiquities  in  the  Cossack  territory,  357 — 359. 
extraordinary  appearance  of  Tcherkask,  their  capital  city,  361.  its 
situation,  388  n.  public  buildings,  and  regalia,  363 — 368.  founda- 
tion of  it,  377,378.  commerce,  380.  government  of  their  armies, 
381, 382,  notes.  Dress  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  383, 384.  their  polished 
manners,  385.  striking  difference  between  them  and  the  Russians, 
386,  387,  419,  420.  diseases  prevalent  among  them,  391,  392. 
distinction  between  them  and  the  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea,  ii.  7. 

Dress  of  the  Russian  peasants,  i.  41, 44.  of  the  Russian  nobles,  caprice 
in,  83, 84.  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  383,  384.  of  the  Cossacks  of  the 
Black  Sea,  ii.  20, 21 .  of  the  Tahtars  of  the  Crimea,  140. 

Drosky,  a  Russian  carriage,  described,  i.  13  note. 

Drowned  persons,  neglect  of,  in  Russia,  i.274 — 276. 

Dsckoufoutkale,  fortress  of,  described,  ii.  185.  Extraordinary  ring  in 
its  vicinity,  187.  singular  excavation  there,  188.  Jewish  coemetery 
there,  ibid.  189.  Account  of  the  colony  of  Jews  there,  1 90 —  1 94. 

Dvina,  River,  notice  of,  i.  514.     streams  falling  into  it,  ibid.  515. 

Dvina,  the  Southern,  account  of,  i.  520,  521.  rivers  falling  into  it, 
521—525. 

Easter,  ceremonies  observed  at,  in  Russia,  i.  66.    Palm  Sunday,  67. 

Maunday  Thursday,  69.    Ceremony  of  the  Resurrection,  70—75. 

Excesses  of  the  populace,  75,  76.    Presentation  of  the  Paschal  Eggs, 

76.     Fashionable  promenades  during  Easter,  143—146. 
Effremof,  Village,  notice  of,  i.251,  252. 
Ekaterinadera,  the  capital  of  the  Tchernomorski  Cossacks,  account  of, 

ii.  18,  19. 
Eletz,  Town  of,  account  of,  i.^53,  254,  255. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

<ipi"«i>"r  entertained  of,  in  Russia,  i.  119.     Extraordinary 
anecdote  of  an  English  servant,  ii.  186.     Account  of  English  Com- 
merce in  the  Black  Sea,  469 — 487. 
Equipages  of  Moscow,  described,  i.  94. 

notice  of  rivers  on  the  coast  of,  i.  518. 

i,  antient  ruins  of,  ii.  210. 
Eujrine  $e*,  project  for  uniting:  with  the  Black  Sea,  i.  486,  et  seq. 
Kffftte*  of  the  Russian  populace  at  Easter,  i.  75, 76. 


f,  Cossack  mode  of,  L  353. 

Fau  Arts,  why  not  likely  to  flourish  in  B^CM^  i.  90, 

FMa*d,  horrible  excesses  of  the  Russians  in,  3SS  note,  449,  450. 
notice  of  rivers  on  the  coast  of,  517. 

fitk,  caught  in  the  River  Don,  account  of,  i.  305,  306. 

FuuuBi*f  n»yitml  of  Moscow,  account  of,  i.  190 — 192. 

Fuller*'  Earth,  pits  of,  in  the  Crimea,  ii.  282.  account  of  its  manu- 
facture, 2g3,  284. 

Funeral  of  Prince  Galitzin,  account  of,  i.  201 — 205.  A  stngvbor  ipmtl 
ceremony  described,  850,  251. 

Galata,  appearance  of,  ii.  445. 

GofitetM,  M.  fallen-  of,  described,  i.  177. 

CmStom.,  Prince,  beautiful  mineral  specimens  of,  described,  i.  181,  1*8. 

account  of  his  funeral,  301 — 90S. 
Games,  Antient,  preserved  in  Russia,  i.  233,  234. 
Gardens  of  Tsarsko-selo,  described,  i.  19,  22. 
Genoese  Fortress  at  Balaclava,  account  of,  ii.222,  223. 
Genoese  Language,  vestiges  of,  in  the  Crimea,  ii.  254,  255. 
Geology  of  the  Crimea,  observations  on,  ii.  223.     Account  of  some 
extraordinary  geological  phenomena,  224 — 228.      Composition  of 
the  rocks  and  strata  near  Kutcbuckoy,  943—245.    Geological  pbcno- 
mena  on  the  Cyanean  Islands,  432. 
Gipsiff,  manners  and  costume  of,  in  Russia,  i.  77 — 80,   of  tbe  Crimea, 

137,  138. 

Goltxkrn,  Count,  noble  behaviour  of  his  peasants,  i.  120.  Account  of 
his  collection  of  minerals,  173 — 174,  his  museum,  174.  pictures, 
175.  antiquities,  175 — 1" 

Greek    Church,    superstitions  of,    i.  28—31.      funeral 
201— «05,  250,  251.    marriage  ceremony  of,  it.  966. 
Greek  Impostor,  anecdote  of  one,  i.  392,  393. 
Greek  Language,  bow  pronounced  in  modern  times,  ii.  100. 
Greek  Ttvn,  form  of  an  antient  one  described,  ii.2f8,  SJ*. 
2  M2 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Greeks^  Modern,  of  the  Crimea,  character  of,  ii.  101.    contrast  between 

them  and  the  Russians,  383 — 385. 
Gun,  the  Great  one  of  Moscow,  described,  i.  153,  154. 

Heights  of  Valday,  i.  41. 

Heracleotic  Chersonesus,  topography  of,  why  difficult  to  be  ascertained, 
ii.  206,  207.  Cippus  of  Theagenes,  207-  Antient  geography  and 
antiquities  of  the  Minor  Peninsula,  210,451.  Ruins  of  Eupatorium, 
210.  and  of  the  antient  city  of  Chersonesus,  21 1,  212.  Inscriptions 
found  there,  213,  214.  Promontory  of  Parthenium,  215.  Monastery 
of  St.  George,  ibid.  216'.  Ruins  at  Balaclava,  218,  219.  description 
of  the  Port  and  Town,  220 — 222.  Genoese  fortress,  222.  Second 
excursion  to  the  Minor  Peninsula  of  the  Heracleotae,  273.  Citadel 
of  Mankoop,  276 — 273.  Cape  of  the  Winds,  279-  Village  of  Shulu, 
281.  Fullers'  Earth  pits,  283.  Isthmian  Wall,  285.  Aia  Burun, 
or  the  Holy  Promontory,  286— 289.  Alexiano's  Chouter,  291.  Point 
and  Bay  of  Phanari,  292.  Ruins  of  the  old  Chersonesus  of  Strabo, 
293.  Valley  of  Tchorgona,  £94 — 300.  Koslof,305.  Perecop,31 1—319. 

Hieron,  site  of  the  antient  town  of,  ascertained,  ii.439. 

Hornpipe  of  England,  probably  of  gipsy  origin,  i.78. 

Horse-dealers,  English,  at  Moscow,  i.  183. 

Hotel,  Russian,  described,  i.  61. 

Houses,  removed  entire,  390. 

Howard,  Mr.,  particulars  of  the  death  of,  ii.  339 — 345.     order  of  his 
funeral,  346.     his  tomb,  347,  348. 

Ilmen,  Lake,  proposed  improvements  in  the  navigation  of,  i.494,  495. 
Imitation,  talent  of,  among  the  Russians,  i.  86, 87-     instanced   in  a 

remarkable  fraud,  89. 
Ineada,  Harbour  of,  its  situation  and  present  state,  ii.409— 41 1.  chart 

of  that  port,  422.     plants  found  in  its  vicinity,  411 — 414,  and  notes. 

appearance  of  the  Turks  there,  415.      antient   ruins   there,  416. 

account  of  mountaineers  frequenting  that  port,  417,418.     basaltic 

pillars  there,  419 — 421.     Voyage  from   Ineada  to  Constantinople, 

423—450. 

^ngermanland,  notice  of  rivers  on  the  coast  of,  i.  517,518. 
Ingul,  River,  account  of,  i.  475,  476. 
Inguletz,  River,  notice  of,  i.  4~5. 
Inkerman,    Caverns   of,    ii.  202 — 204.      mephitic    air  of,    205,    206, 

and  note. 
Inland  Navigation  of  Russia,  report  on,   453 — 455.     See  Black  Sea, 

Canals,  Rivers. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Inscriptions,  Antient,  in  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  ii.  90—96.  at 
Kertchy,  117—119.  at  Caff  a,  137—139.  in  the  Heracleotic  Cher- 
son^sus,  213,214.  belonging  to  the  antient  town  of  Olbiopolis, 
353,  362. 

Insects,  venomous,  found  in  the  Crimea,  ii.  13. 

Iron  Foundries  of  Lugan,  i.336,  337. 

Iron  Mines  of  Tula,  i.  243.     of  Udgino,  255. 

Isthmian  TVall,  Ruins  of,  in  the  Heracleotic  Minor  Peninsula,  ii. 
285,  286. 

Ivan  Basilovitch  I.  character  of,  i.  132. 

Ivan  Basilovitch  II.  character  of,  i.  133, 134. 

Jedrova,  Town  of,  described,  i.  43. 

Jerloa,  account  of  the,  ii.  166,311.     Observations  of  Bochart  on  this 

animal,  167.     Haym's  account  of  it,  163. 
Jews,  Marriage  ceremony  of,  ii.267. 
Jews,  Karaite,  Ccemetery  of,  at  Dichoufoutkale",  'ii.  188, 189.      The 

author's    hospitable    reception    by  a  Jew,   190.     Their  dwellings 

and  manner  of  living,  191,  192.     Account  of  the  sect  of  Karai, 

193,  194. 

Jupiter  Urius,  Temple  of,  ii.  438. 

• 

Kamenskaia,  a  Cossack  town,  described,  i.  335. 
Karaite  sect  of  Jews,  account  of,  ii.  188 — 194. 

Karasubazar,  a  town  of  the  Crimea,  origin  of  its  name,  ii.  158  note, 
remarkable  mountain  in  its  vicinity,  ibid,    account  of  the  town, 
159,160. 
Kasankaia,  appearance  of  the  Cossacks  at,  i.  297.     description  of  the 

town,  305 — 307- 

Kathcrinskoy  Northern  Canal,  account  of,  i.461. 
Keff-ltil,  or   mineral  froth,   where  obtained,  ii.  282.     its  constituent 

parts,  283  note,  account  of  its  manufacture,  283, 284. 
Kertchy,  Town  of,  its  wretched  appearance,  ii.  109,  118  note,  antient 
ruins  there,  1 10 — 114.  antiquities,  1 17 — 119.  accountof  a  stranger 
who  died  there,  121.  fortress,  122.  antieut  church,  123.  havoc 
made  by  the  Russians,  124.  sepulchral  barrows  in  its  vicinity,  129  n- 
The  author's  departure  from  Kertch,  129,130. 

Kirgisian  Ambassadors  at  Moscow,  i.  61.  brief  account  of  that  nation, 
450  *.  resemblance  between  them  and  the  Scottish  Highlanders, 
ibid. 

Klin,  Notice  of,  i.  51. 
Konyalnittkie,  Bay,  notice  of,  i.  479. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Koslof,  Town  and  Port  of,  described,  ii.  305, 306.  Knavery  of  a 
Turkish  Captain,  304. 

Koumiss,  how  prepared  by  the  Calmucks,  i.  312 — 314. 

Kremlin,  Description  of  the,  i.  148.  holy  gate,  ibid,  and  n.  great  bell, 
149 — 152.  great  gun,  153,  154.  Description  of  the  antient  palace 
of  the  Tsars,  155,  156.  Description  of  the  imperial  treasury,  and 
its  contents,  157 — 164.  manuscripts,"l64.  superb  model  of  the 
Kremlin,  165 — 167.  its  general  appearance,  167,  168. 

Krilopka,  River,  notice  of,  i.  474. 

Kuban  Tahtary,  wretched  relays  of  horses  in,  ii.  2.  Industry  of  the 
Malo-Russians,  3.  Cause  of  the  migration  thither  of  the  Tcheruo- 
morski  Cossacks,  4,6.  Wild  fowl,  11.  Singular  species  of  mole 
discovered,  ibid.  Wretched  post-houses,  1 2.  Plants  found  in  this 
country,  13.  Rate  of  travelling,  14.  Antient  tumuli,  ibid.  View 
of  the  Caucasian  Mountains,  16,  17-  Produce  of  the  soil  between 
Ekaterinedara  and  Vydnia,  56.  Division  of  the  River  Kuban,  57. 
Unwholesome  situation  of  Kopil,  58.  Mosquitoes,  59. 

KUtchuckoy,  a  Tah tar  village,  described,  ii.242.  Geological  phenomena 
in  its  vicinity,  243 — 245. 

Ladoga,  Canal  of,  present  state  of,  i.  496.  Account  of  rivers  falling 
into  the  Lake  of  Ladoga,  497- 

Lambat,  Village,  notice  of,  ii.  259,  260  note. 

Languages,  Russian  and  Sclavonic,  distinction  between,  i.  199,  448. 
of  the  Circassians,  ii.  43.  The  Modern  Greek,  how  pronounced,  100. 
Vestiges  of  the  Genoese  language  in  the  Crimea,  254,  255,  and  n. 

Lent,  rigorous  observance  of,  in  Russia,  i. 66,69. 

Lesgi,  a  Circassian  tribe,  account  of,  ii.44. 

Leuce,  Island  of,  present  state  of,  ii.  394.  account  of  it  by  antient 
writers,  395 — 399. 

Libraries  of  the  Russian  Nobles,  i.  93,  94.  of  Count  Botterline, 
178,  170. 

Limestone  of  Odessa,  observations  on,  ii.  367 — 369. 

Literature,  state  of,  in  Russia,  i.  91,  92.     Libraries  of  the  Nobles,  93. 

Livonia,  notice  of  rivers  on  the  coast  of,  i.  518. 

J^ocova  Sloboda,  town  of,  described,  i.  284 — 286. 

Locusts  of  the  Crimea,  observations  on,  ii.  133 — 135.  ravages  com- 
mitted by  them  in  various  parts  of  Europe,  135  note. 

Log  Book  of  the  Moderate,  extract  from,  ii.  488—502. 

Lugan,  iron  foundries  of,  i.  336,  337. 

Mahmoud  Sultan,  a  Turkish  village,  account  of,  ii.  264,  265. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Malo- Russians,  character  of,  i.  278,  279.  Distinction  between  them 
and  the  Russians,  292.  their  industry,  ii.  3. 

Maltese  Cross,  order  of,  i.  171,  172. 

Mankoop,  Citadel  of,  sketch  of  its  history,  ii.  276.  description  of  its 
ruins,  277 — 279. 

Manners  of  the  Russian  peasants,  i.  44 — 46.  of  the  nobility,  115— 
118.  Tubervile's  portrait  of  them,  135,  136,  138,  139.  Change  of 
manners  in  approaching  the  southern  part  of  the  Russian  Empire, 
274,  275.  of  the  Circassians,  379.  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  381— 
387-  of  the  Cossacks  of  the  Black  Sea,  ii.  20.  of  the  Tahtars  of 
the  Crimea,  139,  236—240.  of  the  Nagay  Tahtars,  312,  313,  notes. 

Manufactures  at  Tula,  i.  237. 

Manuscripts  in  the  Kremlin,  account  of,  i.  164,  165. 

Mares'  Milk,  Koumiss  and  brandy  how  prepared  from,  i.  312— 314. 

Margaritovskaia,  account  of  the  Greek  Colony  of,  i.  446. 

Marine  Animals,  deposits  of,  i.  255. 

Marriage  Ceremony  of  the  Cabnucks,  i.  433,  434.  of  the  Greek 
Church,  ii.  266.  of  the  Jews,  267- 

Maunday  Thursday,  how  celebrated  in  Russia,  i.  69,  70. 

Medals  of  the  Bosporus,  account  of,  ii.  105—107.  of  the  town  of 
Panticapteum,  110.  of  Olbiopolis,  363,  364. 

Medicine,  state  of,  in  Russia,  i.  114. 

Merchant,  Russian,  artifice  of,  i.  99- 

Merdveen,  passage  of,  described,  ii.  241. 

Milanese  Vagrants,  character  of,  i.  49. 

Milesian  gold  bracelet,  discovered  in  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  ii.  72. 

Military  Force  of  the  Crimea,  ii.  268—270. 

Minerals  of  Count  Golovkin,  i.  172,  173. 

Mithradates,  Pharos  of,  ii.  104.  medals  of,  105,  107,  and  note,  tomb 
of,  111. 

Model  of  the  Kremlin,  described,  i.  165 — 167- 

Mole,  a  singular  species  of,  discovered,  ii.  11. 

Monastery,  Greek,  in  the  Heracleotic  Peninsula,  ii.  215,  216.  Vestiges 
of  one  at  Derykeuy,  255. 

Morals,  public,   state  of,  i.  209. 

Moscow,  road  from  Petersburg  to,  i.40.  the  author's  arrival  there, 
52.  wretched  accommodation  for  travellers,  56.  peculiarities  of 
climate,  58.  Impressions  made  on  first  arriving  in  Moscow,  59-61 . 
Russian  Hotel,  61.  account  of  the  celebration  of  Easter  in  that 
city,  66—76.  Booksellers'  shopg,  90.  State  of  literature,  91,  92- 
Libraries  of  the  Nobles,  93.  equipages,  94.  costume,  95.  amuse- 
ments, 96.  Chapel  of  the  Tverschaia,  97-  Artifice  of  a  merchant,  99- 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRSf. 

Generous  conduct  of  a  citizen  of,  109.  Prince  turned  pawri- 
broker,  110.  Picture-dealers,  111,  112.  Traffic  in  the  Fine  Arts, 
112,113.  State  of  medicine,  114.  Public  Censors,  127.  Convent 
of  the  Trinity,  128.  Church  of  St.  Basil,  129.  Plan  of  Moscow, 
140.  its  size  and  population,  145  note.  Sunday  market,  140 — 
143.  Promenades  during  Easter,  143—147.  The  Kremlin,  148. 
Holy  Gate,  ib.  Great  bell  of  Moscow,  149 — 153.  Great  gun,  153. 
Antient  Palace  of  the  Tsars,  155.  horrible  massacres  there,  156, 
Imperial  Treasury,  account  of  the,  and  its  contents,  157 — 164. 
Manuscripts,  164.  Fac-simile  of  Peter  the  Great's  hand-writing, 
165.  Superb  model  of  the  Kremlin,  165 — 167.  its  general  appear- 
ance, 167,  168.  Panoramic  view  of  Moscow,  l6i).  Festival  of  the 
Ascension,  170.  Museums  in  Moscow — Count  Golovkin's  described, 
173—177.  Gallery  of  Galitzin,  177.  Count  Botterline's,  178— 180. 
Other  collections,  181,  182.  English  horse-dealers  at  Moscow,  183. 
Public  Baths,  184—190.  Foundling  Hospital,  190—192.  Stalls  for 
fruit  and  food,  206,  207.  Public  morals,  209-  Dealers  in  Virtii, 
215.  Adventurers  and  swindlers,  217. 

Moscsha,  River,  notice  of,  i.  492. 

Mosha,  River,  notice  of,  i.  513. 

Mosquitoes,  ravages  of,  on  the  banks  of  the  Kuban,  ii.  59 — 01. 

Msta,  River,  notice  of,  and  of  the  streams  falling  into  it,  i.  494. 

Mucharitza,  River,  notice  of,  i.  531 — 533. 

Mud,  volcano  of,  ii.  89. 

Musical  Instruments  of  the  Russians,  i.  80.  of  the  Circassians, 
ii.40. 

Nagay,  or  Nogay  Tahtars,  difference  between,  and  the  Tahtars  of  the 
Crimea,  ii.  318,  319-  account  of  their  manners  and  customs,  312, 
313,  notes. 

NaktsMvan,  an  Armenian  Colony,  account  of,  i.  397 — 399.  enter- 
prising character  of  its  merchants,  402,  403.  arrangement  of  their 
ships,  404.  description  of  a  Turkish  coffee-house  there,  405,  406. 
origin  of  this  establishment,  407. 

Naumachia,  antient,  ruins  of,  ii.  86. 

Navigation,  inland,  of  the  Russian  Empire,  i.  47.  report  on,  458 — 
533. 

Neapolitans  and  Russians,  resemblance  between,  i.  102. 

Neva,  River,  tributary  streams  of,  i.  515,  516. 

Nevegia,  River,  notice  of,  i.  529. 

New  Jerusalem,  Convent  of  the,  described,  i.  123 — 126, 

Nicholaef,  town  and  port  of,  described,  ii.  349,  350. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

JVicolajevka,  notice  of,  i.  252. 

Nicoll  na  Perrera,  Convent  of,  described,  194,  200. 

Niemen,  River,  project  for  uniting,  with  the  Dvina,  i.  487.  account 
of  its  navigation,  526 — 528.  rivers  falling  into  it,  528. 

Nikitzkoy,  Town  of,  described,  i.  249,  250.  singular  funeral  ceremony 
there,  251. 

Nile,  analogy  between  the,  and  the  Don,  i.355,  356,  423. 

Nobles,  Russian,  servile  state  of,  i.  46.  affect  to  despise  their  national 
music,  81.  description  of  the  Ball  of  the  Nobles,  81 — 83.  caprice 
in  dress,  83,  84.  their  libraries,  93.  equipages,  94.  condition  of 
their  wives,  103.  Degraded  moral  condition  of  the  Nobles,  104. 
opinion  entertained  by  them  of  the  English,  119.  Servants  of  the 
Nobility,  how  paid  and  kept,  121.  Theft1  a  common  practice  of 
the  Nobles,  122,  .23.  anecdotes  of  their  beastly  manners,  130, 
131  note,  their  immense  wealth,  217-  anecdotes  of  their  meanness, 
431,  432. 

Nobles,  Tahtar,  of  the  Crimea,  polished  manners  of,  ii.298. 

Nogay  Tahtars.     See  TaJitars  Nagay. 

Novogorod,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  25.  description  of  the  Cathedral, 
28.  vignettes  of  the  arms  of,  15.  32.  explanation  of  them,  38. 
Antient  history  of  Novogorod,  32 — 34.  Account  of  the  Novogorodsky 
canal,  454. 

Odessa,  limestone  of,  observations  on,  ii.  367 — 369.  Conduct  of  the 
Emperor  Paul,  respecting  this  place,  372 — 374.  present  state  of, 
376 — 378.  account  of  the  passage  thence,  by  land,  to  Constanti- 
nople, 379 — 381.  importance  of  this  port,  389.  account  of  its 
fortress,  391.  its  latitude  corrected,  400. 

Oginsky,  Canal,  account  of,  i.  487- 

Oka,  River,  notice  of,  i.232,  491. 

Olbiopolis,  Remains  of,  ii.  351,  352.  inscriptions  there,  353—362. 
medals,  363,  364. 

Olga,  baptism  of,  i.  36. 

Onega,  Lake,  account  of  rivers  falling  into,  i.  507,  508.  project  for 
uniting  it  with  the  White  Sea,  509,  510. 

Onega,  River,  account  of,  i.  512.     rivers  falling  into  it,  513,  514. 

Orazai,  a  Persian  Ambassador  to  Moscow,  anecdotes  of,  i.  61,  63. 

Orlqf,  the  assassin  of  Peter  III.  compelled  to  attend  his  public  funeral, 
i.  106. 

Orlof,  General  in  Chief  to  the  Cossack  army,  account  of  the  author'* 
visit  to,  i.  395,  396. 

Orthography,  Russian,  observations  on,  i.   preface,  vi. — ix. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Osiris,  imitation  of  the  ceremony  of  finding,  i.  75  note. 

Ou.Ua,  River,  account  of,  i.  523,  524. 

Oushstka,  Rirer,  notice  of,  i.  525. 

Ovid,  the  place  of  exile  of,  ascertained,  ii.  393  note. 

Paintings,  Antient  Greek,  account  of,  i.  26,  447.     manner  of  imitating 

them,  in  Russia,  27- 
Palace  of  Tsarsko-selo,  described,   i.  19.  22 — 24.      of  Petrofsky,  52. 

Antient  palace  of  the  Tsars,  at  Moscow,  15a,  156.     of  the  Khan  of 

the  Crimea,  at  Baktchesarai,  ii.  180 — 184. 
Pallas,  Professor,  portrait  of,  ii.  143.     anecdote  of,  145,  146  note,     his 

hospitable   reception   of   the  author,    160 — 164.     marriage  of   his 

daughter,  266.    accompanies  the  author  in  one  of  his  excursions,  274. 
Palm  Suitday,  how  celebrated  in  Russia,  i.  67,  68. 
Panticap&um,   antient   city  of,   discovered,   ii.  109.     medal  of,    110. 

Tomb  of  Mithradates  there,  111 — 114.    View   of  the  Cimmerian 

Straits  thence,  115. 
Parthenium,  Promontory  of,  ascertained,  ii.  215,  286,  287.      ruins  at, 

259. 

Paschal  Eggs,  presentation  of,  i.  76. 
Paul  I.  Silhouette  of,  i.  1.     state  of  public  affairs  during  his  reign,  4. 

anecdotes  of  his  strange  conduct,  4—1 1,  127, 128.    of  his  retributive 

spirit,  105,  106.     subverts  every  thing  that  had  been  done  by  his 

mother,   the  Empress  Catherine,   239,  240;  ii.  373.      His  usurious 

practices,  375. 
Paulovskoy,  Town  of,  its  appearance  described,  i.  286.     when  founded, 

287-     animals  found  in  its  vicinity,  288.     trade,  289.     Rash  conduct 

of  a  young  peasant  there,  290. 
Peasantry  of  Russia,  dress  of,  i.  41,  44.     servile  state  of,  46. 47-     their 

oppressed  state,  53,  54,  224.   Description  of  the  Ball  of  the  peasants, 

?6 — 81.     anecdotes  of  their  talent  of  imitation,  87,  89.     clothing  of, 

208.     general  account  of  their  condition,  217 — 225. 
Peru,  a  suburb  of  Constantinople,  appearance  of,  ii.  446,  447- 
Perecop,  Fortress   of,  its  present  state,  ii.  311 — 314,  454,  455.     Ac- 
count  of  the    salt    harvest  there,    315,  316.      caravans    of    salt, 

317. 

Perry,  Captain,  ill  treatment  of,  by  Peter  I.  i.  431  432. 
Peter  the  Great,   fac-simile  of  his  writing,   i.  165.     botanic   garden, 

formed  by  him  at  Woronetz,  265.     His  shuffling  treatment  of  Captain 

Perry,  431,  432. 
Petersburgh,  St.   project  for  a  water-communication  between,   and 

Archangel,  i.  458. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Petrofsky,  Palace  of,  i.52. 

Phfenomena,  extraordinary,  described,  i.  11, 12,  447.    on  the  Cyanean 

Isles,  ii.4,32. 
Phanagoria,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  68 — 76,  82.     antient  coin  of,  83. 

amphitheatre,  86.     other  ruins,  84,  87—89.     Inscriptions,  30—96. 
Phanari,  Point  and  Bay  of,  ii.  292,  293. 
Picol,  River,  notice  of,  i.  173. 

Pictures,  why  worshipped  in   Russia,  i.  101.     Instances  of  picture- 
worship,  31,  97,  98,'lOO.     Picture-dealers  at  Moscow,  111. 
Pigeons,  market  for,  at  Moscow,  i.  141. 
Pioma,  River,  notice  of,  i.  504. 

Places  visited  in  the  author's  route,  with  their  distances,  ii.  520  et  seq. 
Plants  of  the  South  of  the   Crimea,  observations  on,   ii.  242i  243. 

catalogue  of  them,  504 — 512. 
Plato,  Archbishop  of  Moscow,  vignette  of,  i.  58.     his  dress  on  Easter 

Sunday,  74.     Account  of  the  author's  visit  to  him,  193 — 200. 
Pliny,  geography  of,  reconciled  with  that  of  Strabo,  ii.68. 
Poderosnoy,  privilege  of,  i.  43. 
Police,  Russian,  insolence  of,  i-7 — 9. 

Population  of  the  Don-Cossack  territory,  i.  347,  382,  383  notes. 
Porte,  Memorial  to  the,  ii.  474—482.     reply  of,  486,  487. 
Portus  Symbolorum,  antient  site  of,  ascertained,  ii.  218,  219. 
Postmaster,  insolence  and  extortion  of  one,  i.  231. 
Potemkin,  Prince,  anecdotes  of  his  villainous  conduct,  ii.  174 — 178. 

poetical  portrait  of,  299.    death  and  burial  of,  336,  337.    recent 

disposal  of  his  body,  338. 
Priestmeen,  Admiral,  attentions  of,  to  Mr.  Howard,  ii.  343,  344.    his 

excellent  character,  365. 

Prince,  a  Russian,  turned  pawnbroker,  i.  1 10. 
Pripit,  River,  notice  of,  i.471.     Account  of  smaller  rivers  falling  into 

it,  ibid.  472. 

Quass,  a  Russian  beverage,  how  prepared,  i.45. 

Rana  varialilis,  account  of,  ii.  320. 
Resurrection,  ceremony  of,  at  Easter,  i.70— 75. 

Rivers  of  Russia,  Report  on,  i.464etseq.    The  Dnieper,  464.    account 
of  rivers  falling   into  it,    469.472—475.      Beresina,  470.     Sosha, 

471.  Pripit,    ibid,      smaller  rivers  falling  into  the   Pripit,  ibid. 

472.  Rivers  falling  into  the  Bog,  475 — 477.  The  Dniester,  480—482. 
rivers  falling  into  it,  482,  483.    The  Don,  and  its  tributary  streams, 
484.    The  Choper,  and  its  tributary  streams,  485.     Rivers  falling 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

into  the  Volga,  490—  494.  The  Sheksna,  502.  rivers  falling  into  it, 
503 — 505.  The  Vitegra,  and  rivers  falling  into  it,  506.  Rivers  falling 
into  the  Lake  Onega,  507—510.  into  the  White  Sea,  510—512. 
The  Dvina  river,  and  streams  falling  into  it,  514,  515.  and  into  the 
Neva,  516.  Rivers  ou  the  coast  of  Finland,  ibid,  on  the  coast  of 
Ingermanland,  517,518.  and  on  the  coast  of  Estonia  and  Livonia, 
518—521.  Rivers  falling  into  the  Southern  Dvina,  521—525. 
Rivers  in  Courland,  525, 526.  Navigation  of  the  River  Niemen, 
526—528.  rivers  falling  into  it,  528. 
Roller,  anecdote  of  a  desperate  one,  ii.  326,  327- 
Rulruquis,  the  traveller,  veracity  of,  confirmed,  i.  400, 401. 
Russia,  State  of  public  affairs  in,  during  the  Emperor  Paul's  reign,  i.4. 
Insolence  of  the  police,  7 — 9-  Adorations  paid  by  the  Russians  to 
their  Bogh,  or  God,  31.  First  churches  in  Russia,  34,35.  Chris- 
tianity, when  embraced  by  the  Russians, 37.  their  superstitious  crossing, 
39.  Dress  of  the  peasants,  44.  their  domestic  manners,  ibid.  45,  46. 
Servile  state  of  the  empire,  46,47.  Russian  mode  of  celebrating 
Easter,  65 — 76.  Talent  of  imitation  possessed  by  the  Russians, 
86 — 83.  instanced  in  a  remarkable  fraud,  89.  Fine  arts,  why  not 
likely  to  flourish,  90.  Superstitious  practices  of  the  Russians, 
99 — 101.  Resemblance  between  the  Russians  and  Neapolitans,  102. 
State  of  medicine  in  Russia,  114.  Manners  of  the  people,  115.  of 
the  nobility,  116,  118, 133,  139.  Opinions  entertained  by  the  Russians 
of  the  English,  119.  Relative  condition  of  slaves  and  their  lords, 
ibid.  120.  Russian  character  the  same  for  many  centuries,  130. 
Description  of  a  Russian  funeral,  201 — 204.  and  of  a  Russian 
christening,  205,  206  note.  Atrocities  committed  by  the  Russians  in 
Finland,  386  note,  449, 450.  Striking  contrast  between  them  and 
the  Don  Cossacks,  387,419,430.  General  view  of  the  South  of 
Russia,  399 — 401.  Report  on  the  river-navigation  of  Russia,  464  et 
seq.  Havoc  made  by  the  Russians  in  the  Crimea,  generally,  ii. 
124 — 179.  particularly,  at  Caffa,  131  note,  144 — 147.  at  Karasu- 
bazar,  159.  at  Baktchesarai,  173.  Contrast  between  the  Crim 
Tahtars  and  the  Russians,  298,  299,  Anecdote  of  the  corruption 
prevailing  among  the  Russian  magistrates  and  police,  326, 327. 
Contrast  between  a  Russian  and  a  Modern  Greek,  383 — 385. 

Salines,  or  Salt  Works,  of  Yalovitzky,  i.  512. 

Salt- Harvest  of  Perecop,  account  of,  ii.  315 — 317- 

Salt-Lakes  of  the  Crimea,  i.488,  489,  notes. 

Salvia  Hallitziana,  account  of,  ii.  299,  300. 

Samara,  River,  notice  of,  i.  474.  * 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Sandal,  Russian,  vignette  of,  227.    of  what  materials  made,  230. 
Sash,  River,  account  of,  i.  49.7,  500 — 502. 
Sdskoy,  Canal,  account  of,  i.  459. 
Sea  of  dzof,  remarkable  phenomenon  in,  i.  423,  424. 
Serpuchof,  town  of,  described,  i.  230,  231. 

Shahin  Ghirei,  Khan  of  Crim  Tahtary,  causes  that  led  to  the  deposition 
and  death  of,  ii.  173 — 178.     delivered  to  the  Turks,    and   put  to 

death,  180,  181. 

Sharra,  River,  notice  of,  i.  529,  530. 

Sheksna,  River,  account  of,  i.  502.     rivers  falling  into  it,  503 — 505. 
Shilhl,  village  and  caverns  of,  described,  ii.281,  282. 
Siberia,  state  of  exiles  in,  i.  107.     Notice  of  Tobolsky,  108. 
Sinucha,  River,  notice  of,  i.  477. 
Slavery,  universal,  in  the  Russian   Empire,  i.  46,  47,  53.     Relative 

condition  of  slaves   and  their  lords,  119,  120.     Noble  behaviour  of 

Count  Golovkin's  peasants,  120. 
Smith,  Mr,  J.  S.,  Memorial  of,  to  the  Porte,  465 — 482.    Reply  thereto, 

435. 

Soldiers,  Russian,  catechism  of,  ii.  457 — 468. 
Soros,  marble,  at  Yenikale,  ii.  103. 
Sosha,  River,  notice  of,  i.  471. 

Souchona,  River,  notice  of,  i.  504.     and  of  the  Lower  Souchona,  515. 
Soula,  River,  notice  of,  i.473. 
Souma,  River,  notice  of,  i.  511. 
Stara    Crim,  situation  of,    ii.  154.     The   site  of  the  antient  city    of 

Theodosia,  151  note,  155  note.      Account  of  ruined  baths  there, 

154 — 156.     Villa  of  the  Empress   Catherine  there,  157.     Antient 

Vallum  in  its  vicinity,    158. 
Steppes,  nature  of,  explained,  i.  279.     description  of  them,  308,  309, 

322,  323,  324.     account   of  animals   peculiar  to  them,  325 — 331. 

Distinction  between  the  Cossacks  of  the  Steppes  and  those  of  the 

Don,  334.     The  Steppes  of  the   Crimea  infested  with  locusts,   ii. 

133 — 135.     and  with  venomous  insects,  136. 
Strabo,  geography  of,  reconciled  with  that  of  Pliny,  ii.  68. 
Sudak,  antient  names  of,  ii.  309  note,     notice  of  its  fortress,  453,  454. 
Superstitions  of   the  Greek    Church,   account  of,    i.  28 — 31.     of  the 

Russian  peasantry,  39,  45,  99 — 101. 
Suroke,  of  the  Steppes,  account  of,  i.325 — 328. 

Suslic,  an  animal  peculiar  to  the  Steppes,  description  of,  i.  329 — 331. 
Suvorof,  Field-marshal,  anecdotes  of,  ii.  270—272.     his  catechism  for 

the  Russian  army,  457—468. 
Svir,  River,  notice  of,  i.  498. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Tables  of  Russian  measure,  weight,  and  money,  i.  preface,  xii. 

Taganrog,  situation  and  present  state  of,  i.  426,  427.  commerce  of, 
external  and  internal,  428 — 430.  state  of  the  country  in  its  vicinity, 
438.  Variety  of  inhabitants  found  at  Taganrog,  439,  440.  Anti- 
quities, 440. 

Tahtars,  Calmuck.    See  Calrnuck  Camp. 

TaTUars  of  the  Crimea,  cattle  of,  ii.  138.  Manners,  &c.  of  the  Tahtar 
Gentlemen,  139.  their  dress,  140.  devotion,  171.  barbarous 
treatment  of  them  by  the  Russians,  173.  account  of  those  inhabit- 
ing the  valley  of  Baidar,  232 — 234.  their  dwellings,  235.  their 
domestic  manners  and  habits,  236 — 240.  Manner  of  thrashing  corn, 
249-  Tahtar  school  described  153.  Tahtar  nobles,  298. 

Tahtars,  Nagay,  difference  between  them  and  the  Tahtars  of  the 
Crimea,  ii.  318,  319.  account  of  their  manners  and  customs,  312, 
313  notes. 

Taman,  Fortress  of,  its  injudicious  situation,  ii.  80 — 82.  antient 
ruins  in  its  vicinity,  82 — 90.  inscriptions,  92 — 96. 

Tana'is,    or  Don,  River,    etymology  of,  'i.  337 — 340,  448. 

probable  situation  of  the  antient  city  of,  i.  416. 

Tarantula  Spider,  observations  on,  ii.  197. 

Tcherkask,  a  city  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  extraordinary  appearance  of, 
i.36l.  its  inhabitants  amphibious,  361.  when  founded,  377,  378. 
its  situation,  388  note,  population,  362.  Tahtar  mosque,  363. 
Regalia  preserved  in  the  principal  church,  ibid.  364,  365.  other 
public  buildings,  366,  367.  singular  custom  of  blessing  bread,  368. 
commerce,  380,  381.  polished  manners  of  its  inhabitants,  385, 
386.  survey  of  the  city,  387 — 389.  houses  removed  entire,  390. 

Tcherkesskerman,  ruins  of  the  fortress  of,  ii.  275. 

Tchcrnomorski  Cossacks.     See  Cossacks  of  the  Slack  Sea. 

Tchftirdagh,  the  antient  Trapezus,  account  of,  ii.  260,  261.  account 
of  the  author's  passage  over,  261,  262.  rare  plants  found  there, 
263. 

Tchorgona,  Valley,  description  of,  ii.  294,  295.  danger  of  the  climate, 
296.  Tahtar  Nobles  there,  297- 

Telegul,  Gulph,  account  of,  i.  478,  479- 

Temperature  of  the  atmosphere  during  the  author's  travels,  ii.  513  et 
seq. 

Tempest,  terrible,  described,  ii.  405 — 409. 

Temples,  origin  of,  ii.  75. 

Temrook,  antient  and  present  state  of,  ii.  64,  6f>. 

Theagenes,  Cippus  of,  described,  ii.  207 — 209- 

Theft  universally  practised  in  Russia,  i.  123. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Theodosia,  antient  ruins  of,  at  Stara  Grim,  ii.  154 — 156. 

Thracian  Bosporus,  consequences  resulting  from  the  opening1  of,  ii. 
370 — 372.  origin  of  it,  437.  its  antiquities,  438—442.  Probable 
situation  of  Darius,  when  he  surveyed  the  Euxinc,  439. 

Thrashing,  Tahtar  mode  of,  ii.  249. 

Toad,  remarkable,  account  of,  ii.  320. 

Tobolsky,  town  of,  described,  i.  108,  109. 

Tombs,  antient,  in  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus,  ii.  70—74.  at  Yenikale, 
103.  of  Theagenes,  at  Aktiar,  107— 109. 

Torshok,  notice  of,  i.48,  49. 

Travelling,  precautions  to  be  used  in,  i.  215.  state  of,  in  Russia,  235, 
S36.  in  Caucasus,  49-  facility  of,  in  Russia,  ii.322. 

Travelling  Apparatus  of  Dr.  Clarke,  described,  i.  16 — 18. 

Treasury,  Imperial,  at  Moscow,  description  of,  and  of  its  contents, 
i.  157—164. 

Trinity,  Convent  of,  described,  i.  128,  129. 

Trubetskoy,  Prince,  turned  pawnbroker,  i.  110,  111. 

Tsars,  antient  palace  of,  at  Moscow,  described,  i.  155,  156. 

Tsarsko-selo,  palace  and  gardens  of,  described,  i.  19,  20. 

Tula,  town  of,  described,  i.  236,  241.  manufactures  at,  237,  238. 
road  thenfp  to  Woronetz,  243 — 245. 

Tumuli,  sepulchral,  i.  42,  50,  51.  Vignette  of  the  Tumuli  at  Woro- 
netz, 260.  account  of  them,  277.  in  the  vicinity  of  Taganrog, 
240.  in  Kuban  Tahtary,  ii.  14.  at  Sienna,  in  the  Cimmerian  Bos- 
porus, 70 — 72.  near  Yenikale",  109.  Tumulus  of  Mithradates, 
111—114. 

Turkish  Coffee-House,  description  of,  i.  405. 

Turks,  appearance  and  manners  of,  at  Ineada,  ii.  415. 

Tver,  brief  description  of,  i.  49,  50. 

Tverschaia,  Chapel  of,  described,  i.  97- 

Tweddell  MSS."  mysterious  disappearance  of,  ii.  120  note. 

Udgino,  Iron  mines  of,  i.,255. 

Ukraine,  Banditti  of,  account  of,  ii.  323—325.  Anecdote  of  a  desperate 
robber,  326,327. 

Valday,  Heights  of,  i.  41 .     costume  of  the  peasants  of,  ibid. 
Valley  of  Baidar,  described,  ii. 232— 234.     of  Tchorgona,  294—300. 
Vallum  of  Asander,  description  of,  ii.  140—142. 
Vilia,  River,  notice  of,  i.529. 
Villevsky,  Canal,  account  of,  i.453. 
Vigh,  River,  notice  of,  i.  510, 511. 


INDEX  TO  PART  THE  FIRST. 

Villages  named  in  Russian  maps,  real  nature  of,  i.  339. 

Virgin  with  Three  Hands,  legendary  account  of,  i.  30.    with  the  Bleeding 

Oieck,  97-     extraordinary  picture  of,  365. 
Virtu,  Dealers  in,  at  Moscow,  i.  215,  216. 
Vitegra,  River,  notice  of,  and  of  its  tributary  streams,  i.  506. 
Vladimir  the  Great,  Coins  of,  ii.  290. 
Volcanic  Island  near  Temrook,  ii.  6G. 

Volchof,  River,  cataracts  of,  i.  458,  495.    rivers  falling  into  it,  495,  496. 
Volga,  River,  project  for  the  junction  of,  with  the  Don,  i.462 — 464. 

Account  of  rivers  falling  into  the  Volga,  490 — 494. 
Voloska,  River,  notice  of,  i.  513. 
Vyshney  Voloshok,  notice  of,  i.47,  48.     account  of  its  canal,  453,455. 

Wager,  anecdote  of  a  remarkable  one,  i.  387- 

JVhite  Sea,  notice  of  rivers  falling  into,  i.512,  513. 

fVhitworth,  Sir   Charles,  tyrannical  treatment  of,   by  the  Emperor 

Paul,  i.  4. 
,  JFz«<?,Champagne,  how  imitated,  i.263note.  Wine  of  theDon, 272,381. 

FFomen,  condition  of,  among  the  Calmucks,  i.  315,  317. 

Woro,vcU,  present  state  of,  i.  2Gi.  Himate  and  productions,  ibid,  252. 
situation,  263.  Botanic  garden  there,  formed  by  Peter  the  Great, 
265.  Inundation  and  product  of  the  rivers,  267.  Increase  of  new 
buildings,  268.  Commerce,  external  and  internal,  269 — 271. 
Delightful  plains  South  of  Woronetz,  279. 

Yampolsk,  Cataract  of,  i.  489- 

Yavghel,  River,  notice  of,  i.522. 

Yenikale,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  ii.  98.     situation  of  the  fortress 

102.     marble  soros  there,  ibid.     Singular  antient  sepulchre,   103. 

ruins  in  its  neighbourhood,  108  109. 

Zadonetz,  Town  of,  notice  of,  i.  256,  257. 


R.  Watts,  Printer,  Crown-court, 
Temple  Bar,  London. 


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