THE
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS,
PATRIARCH OF ANTIOCH:
WRITTEN
BY HIS ATTENDANT ARCHDEACON, PAUL OF ALEPPO,
IN ARABIC.
VOLUME I.
TRANSLATED
BY F. C. BELFOUR, A.M. OXON. M.R.A.S.
LL.D. OF THE GREEK UNIVERSITY OK CORFU,
&C. &C. &C.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND
OF GREAT-BRITAIN AND IRELAND ;
AND SOLD BY A. J. VALPY, RED-LION COURT.
M.DCCC. XXXVI.
P1UXTED 1JY RIC1I.UID WATTS, CROUX COU11T, TKMl'LK BAK.
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
SIR GORE OUSELEY, BART. FR.S F.A.S.
KMGIIT OF THE LION AND SUN,
VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, CHAIRMAN OF THE ORIENTAL
TRANSLATION COMMITTEE, &C. &C. &C.
SIR,
REJOICED in the opportunity, which your kind
permission has allowed me, of dedicating- to you one of
the earliest productions of the ORIENTAL COMMITTEE OF
TRANSLATION, over which you so ably preside, I should feel
perfect satisfaction in the performance of this pleasing-
duty, bound to it by the obligations which your patronage
has laid upon me, were the offering in any respect worthy
of the approbation desired to be conferred by its benevo
lent acceptor.
A Guest and Counsellor of Princes, whether ruling
over the orient realms of sun-bright Persia, or Masters of
the victorious lion of the British Empire, you would wish
that the TRAVELS OF MACARIUS should present to you
observations equal to your own, upon the interests of
Kingdoms, and the manners of Kings. A diligent tra
veller over remote and but slightly- explored regions,
replete with the opposite varieties of East and West, you
would look for details of novelty, such as yourself could
amply furnish. Familiar with the varied dictions, and
accustomed to the chequered thoughts, ripened so di
versely iu different climates, you would expect to regale
vour siffht, and gratify your discriminating taste, with the
Jo J *
«*ayer flowers of Eastern eloquence, and the luxurious
fruits of warmer fancies, successfully transplanted and
cherished in the more oblique rays of the Western sun.
The pages here offered to your perusal will afford,
I apprehend, scarcely any thing to satisfy your just ex
pectations. How much-soever able to convey with fide
lity and truth the strength and colour of the foreign text
into his native idiom, a Translator, in the plain and
unadorned stvle of the Archdeacon Paul, would discover
j
but few traces of type for the ornament of his own. Edu
cated in the seclusion of the convent, or the retirement of
the sacerdotal cloister, the unworldly Author comes for
ward devoid of the preparation which courts and camps
bestow, for the keen intuition of human-nature, the com
parison of distant objects, and the knowledge of the rela
tions of parts and interests.
To your practised mind, however, the naivete of his
remarks may afford some amusement ; and his accurate
collection of facts, some various material for useful medi
tation.
That the Institution under your auspices will con
tinue to afford the encouragement so long and so much
wanted to Oriental Literature — that rich mine of intellec-
( iii )
tual wealth, which, though so abundant in its treasures,
has hitherto been so little and so poorly wrought — is my
ardent and fondest hope. And should my humble endea
vours to assist in the useful task be rewarded with your
indulgent approbation, I shall esteem myself greatly for
tunate.
I have the honour to remain,
Sir,
Your most obliged,
and obedient humble Servant,
THE TRANSLATOR.
May the Wi, 1829.
P R E F A C E.
I HE Arabic Manuscript, of which the Translation, under the auspices and at the
expense of the ORIENTAL TRANSLATION COMMITTEE, is here, in part, laid before the
Public, was purchased, many years ago, at Aleppo, by the late FREDERIC EARL OF
GUILFORD ; and, in 1824, placed in my hands by his Lordship, to be translated
into English. Meeting with those numerous errors of transcription which are
found more or less in all Manuscripts, I became desirous to provide myself with
other copies, for the purpose of collation ; and, in my progress through the
Eastern Countries, sought for them, but without success, at Constantinople,
Smyrna, and Cairo. Reduced, therefore, to the employment of my single copy,
I have had to contend with great difficulties, amidst the erroneous and diversified
readings continually presenting themselves, both in the narrative and in the
names of places ; but most of all in the Greek words, so defectively written in
the Arabic Character, that some of them it has been impossible satisfactorily to
decipher. With the obliging help of the Rev. H. D. LEEVES, late of Constan
tinople, whose excellent knowledge of the Greek Language, and extensive
acquaintance with the Uses and Ceremonies of the Greek Church, have enabled
him to be of great assistance to me, I have, notwithstanding these difficulties,
been able to render most of them, I believe correctly, in their proper form; and
should have been glad to have had leisure fully to explain them. I have been
surprised at the hallucination which their Arabic appearance has sometimes
occasioned me, even where the reading might, upon a more leisurely view, seem
perfectly easy: as in one instance, where Ancient Greek is mentioned, and
a might naturally occur, I have been led to take the first syllable of
for the Arabic article, and rendered the word " of Yenika."
Another and more serious difficulty, which has much retarded me in my
prosecution of the work, is the perpetual recurrence of Church Ceremonies,
b
vi PREFACE.
repeated, nearly all, with little variation, and serving to mark the Calendar of the
Archdeacon's Journal. To neglect them altogether, would have been to
interrupt the thread of the narrative, and sometimes to lose sight of the Clerical
travellers for periods of weeks together. I have, therefore, been compelled to
give such as seemed absolutely necessary to the continuation of the history ; but
much, I fear, to the weariness of those who shall undertake to read them, from
the aversion, which our English habits and pure practices of religion produce in
us, to the tedious forms of unmeaning and superstitious ceremonial. The Arch
deacon himself often complains of the excessive length to which the ceremonies
of the Greek Church are protracted, particularly amid the Cossacks and in
Muscovy ; and yet, from his inbred love of Ecclesiastic rites, he omits no oppor
tunity to dwell on the description of their lengthened splendors, as though detailing
them to none, but such inveterate amateurs of them, as his own education had
made him. These details, however, give him frequent opportunities for remarks
on the morals and religious principles of the various Nations whom he visits,
which it is hoped may be interesting to the Reader : and the Political and
Statistical history of countries, so little known as Moldavia and Wallachia, may
be simultaneously gathered from his Ecclesiastical records.
To the excellent Institution, which owes its origin mainly to the activity and
influence of its inestimable Treasurer, LIEUTENANT-COLONEL FITZCLARENCE, who
has himself set the example, in the Narrative of his Journey from India, through
Egypt, to England, of collecting useful instruction, and communicating it,
through the Press, for the benefit of his countrymen the English Public will
soon be indebted for much novel information on the history of the Eastern
World, over so great a part of which the British Empire is extended. Hitherto
it must have been the frequent regret of every scholar, at all acquainted with
the riches of Oriental Literature, that so little wealth has been extracted
from it, for the practical purposes of Commerce and Government. While the
valuable time of diligent investigators has been perpetually wasted on re-editing
and re-translating, for times innumerable, the well-known pages of the Greek
and Roman Authors, well-attested facts and solidly-grounded theories, which, if
made known to the world, might powerfully promote its improvement and
augment its general happiness, have lain buried in voluminous Manuscripts of
intelligent and benevolent Authors, scarcely ever perused by even the few, whose
attainments have qualified them for the task.
PREFACE. vii
To no class of Literati is mankind more indebted, at the present time, than to
the persevering Writers of the German Nation. Their unwearied and indefatigable
diligence has obtained for them the highest reputation in the World of Letters ;
so extraordinary are the efforts which they make, up the arduous road of Science !
How lamentable, that the pains of so many of them should be wasted upon the
vain attempt, to fix some unimportant writing upon the thousands-of-times
printed Manuscript of Writers some thousands of years dead. Of this vain
labour, such as Homer describes of Sisyphus—
HTOI o /J.EV, ffKtipiTTTOfj.evoi; ^epffiv re Troatv TS,
Aoiav aw (advent TTOTI \ofyov «AA' ore
' \Kpov vKEp/BaAesiv, TOT' aT
ILppeev ex peXicoV) novitj 5' ex XjOaroj opupst
I will quote an instance, from the Oxford Literary Gazette :•— 'In a late
Number of the Rheinisches Museum, (Vol. II. p. 125.) Professor Welcker has
suggested a new and ingenious solution of a difficulty in a very beautiful passage
of Sophocles. In the Philoctetes, v. 816, the Chorus sings thus :
YTTI'' obvvac; «&x*7$
T£T«T«< T« VVV.
The best, or rather the least bad, of the interpretations proposed, is that of
Hermann : ' Oculis prcetendas earn, qua nunc expansa est, lucem : quae qucj-
niam nulla est, sed caligo potius, haec est intelligenda.' Mr. Welcker, however,
has collected several passages from the Grammarians, in which afyXq is explained
to be a band, or properly a ligature, round the feet or arms (Bekker, Anecd.
p. 354, Pollux, v. 100). The most important authority is Hesychius, whose
article should (it appears) be read thus: AfyXfl, ;^X;&yV 2o<po«A^ T^e7. x,ou
vtdri voigoi 'Eni'fcdgfAa Iv Rot.x'fcaiq . It seems, therefore, that Sophocles had,
in a lost tragedy, used the word a<yX?? in nearly the sense required ; and
accordingly, Mr. Welcker supposes the Chorus to invoke the God of Sleep
' To hold over Philoctetes' eyes the veil which then covers them.' "
viii P R E F A C E.
First the Professor, in order to force out something new, requires his autho
rity to be read as it suits him ; differently, of course, from the accepted method :
and then Sophocles is proved to have used the word he has fixed upon for his
ingenious distortions, in nearly the sense required. And all this ingenuity and
labour is employed to bring out the most ridiculous conception of the passage,
that the forced fancy of a Commentator could perhaps give birth to. The only
word that requires any comment, is a,vr&%oi$, which appears clearly to mean
jtrohibe : Withhold from my eyes t/tis painful light. Hut the obvious meaning
is too simple for the acceptance of the ostentatious Critic, whose famished
appetite has long been confined to the close-cropped pasture of a thread-bare
text. He would gain no name by following the direct passage, to which plain
s<>nse is the guide; and prefers a noisy dash upon the rocks which bound it.
These unfortunate toilers might have given occasion to some such proverb
as the Arabic
.x~-Jki Jo. j^c. j^ Koseir wa Aoeir, wa kollo gheir-a kheir :
J n s " J J"J J J" *
•• Koseir and Aoeir (two banks on the coast of Arabia), and all but what is good."
To the industrious pursuit of more profitable labours, opening the road to
fresh information, and unbounded communication of thought and language — to
the display of feelings and propensities, as they are diversified by clime, and
promoted by the suggestions of various education, so necessary to be contem
plated in the happy government of the human race — the encouragement now
given is the foundation of a new {era in the dynasty of Science, and venturous
explorers may now strike out from the beaten track of the circulating shores
of the Mediterranean.
I should have wished that it had been in my power to elucidate the text with
more copious Notes from other Writers. Hut to the original remarks of
Mr. Leeves, I have been able to add but few commentaries from the small
number of Travellers who have visited Turkey. Dr. Neale, Wilkinson, and
Walsh, have furnished me with a few; and I hereby acknowledge my obligations
to their valuable Works.
In the Appendix, will be found some extracts from Sir Robert Ker Porter,
Dr. King, Messrs. Hobhouse, Thornton, Madden, &c. ; which I thought it advisable
PREFACE. ix
to subjoin, especially as several of their Works are out of print, in order to explain
the nature and Ceremonies of the Greek Church, mentioned in this book; to
throw light upon some obscure passages in its narrative and historical details :
and to corroborate some of the Archdeacon's most remarkable observations, by
the corresponding testimony of other Travellers.
In transcribing the Arabic and Turkish words, 1 cannot say that I have
strictly followed one unvaried orthography. The word Romeliu, for instance,
I have indifferently written with the o, or the a, tlumelta. I have merely confined
myself to the general Alphabet of Europe, whereof the Eastern Aliph stands for
the a and c, the Waw for the o and ?/, and the Ya for the c and i ; avoiding, by
this course, the laughable errors in spelling, into which our English and peculiar
system of diphthongs has led more than one-half of our Anglo-Oriental Writers.
There is a Scholar, who takes the highest interest in every thing connected
with Oriental Literature — whose vigilant superintendence of its welfare suffers
no production, however small, from its Arabic, Persian, or Hebrew Cabinets,
to circulate through the hands of its philologic negotiators, without affixing to it
the respected signet of his paramount criticism — who will probably deign to
honour also this slight Work with his official notice. To this Chief of the
Literate Arabs, my once kind and helpful instructor, SILVKSTUE BARON DI: SACK
whom my conversation among the Learned, both in England and on the Con
tinent, in Turkey and in Christendom, whether Professors of high pretensions or
unambitious Students, has ever taught me to regard as at a very long interval
indeed from any second ; who, neglecting no iota of accurate knowledge in the
various languages which he possesses better than the learned Natives, shines
forth the great light, by whk'h the wandering and uncertain course of the inferior
Ulema and Docti should ever be guided ; and
Micat inter omnes
— ; velut inter ignes
Luna minores.
To him I seize the opportunity of offering my joyful congratulations, that his
unceasing efforts to exalt the refined science, whereof he has so long been the
active minister, have, at length, met with such pow-erful patronage and support :
and that the useful means he has so amply provided for the easier investigation
of Eastern lore, are about to be employed by skilful and industrious Labourers.
x PREFACE.
Would that you too, ILLUSTRIOUS EARL OF GUILFORD ! whose premature
departure from the sphere of your beneficence has left to your admiring friends,
to your loving and numerous dependants, a loss incapable of repair, a grief
that can never be consoled— would that you, too, could have prolonged your
inestimable life for the advantage of those Institutions most beneficial to man
kind, which it was your constant endeavour to establish and support ! You
would have again deigned to peruse, with renewed attention, the printed
sheets of the Archdeacon's Journal, which it was your delight so sedulously to
read, as, at your command, they were produced in the Translated Manuscript.
May your immortal spirit still shed its influence, from the realms above, upon t he-
powerful body of your exalted rank, to follow the bright example which you
have bequeathed them — of encouraging, to their utmost, the continual and
rapid advancement of sound learning and practical information !
INDEX TO PART I.
Page
TRANSLATOR'S DEDICATION
TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE
AUTHOR'S PREFACE ..............
BOOK I. SECT. I.
Aleppo. — Antioch ................ *
SECT. II.
rj
Iconium ......................
SECT. III.
Broussa ......................
SECT. IV.
Constantinople .................
SECT. V.
Constantinople. — Condoscale ....... 20
SECT. VI.
Constantinople. — At Maidan ........ 22
SECT. VII.
Constantinople. — Seraglio .......... 24<
SECT. VIII.
Constantinople. — Soleimanieh ....... 25
SECT. IX.
Constantinople. — Galata ........... 27
SECT. X.
Constantinople. — Conflagration ...... 28
SECT. XI.
Constantinople. — Mahall Assamatah ... 30
SECT. XII.
Constantinople. — Seven Towers ...... 31
SECT. XIII.
Constantinople. — Bosphorus ......... 33
SECT. XIV.
Constantinople. — Fanar ........... 35
SECT. XV.
Constantinople. — Excommunication ... 37
SECT. XVI.
Black Sea 40
SECT. XVII.
Bulgaria 42
BOOK II. SECT. I.
Moldavia. — Galats 43
SECT. II.
Moldavia. — Habitations 45
SECT. III.
Moldavia. — Waslui 46
SECT. IV.
Moldavia. — Skentai 47
SECT. V.
Moldavia. — Yassi 48
SECT. VI.
Yassi.— St. Saba 50
SECT. VII.
Yassi. — Court 51
SECT. VIII.
Yassi. — Presents 52
SECT. IX.
Yassi. — Banquet 54
SECT. X.
Yassi. — Convents 58
SECT. XI.
Yassi. — Products 64
SECT. XII.
Yassi. — Funeral Service 68
SECT. XIII.
Yassi. — Revolution 71
INDEX TO PART I.
SKCT. XIV.
Yas.si. — Administration 77)
SKCT. XV.
Yassi. — War 76 ;
SKCT. XVI.
Yassi. — Restoration 78
SKCT. XVII.
Yassi. — Consecration 81
SECT. XVI II.
Yassi. — Gardens 82
SECT. XIX.
Yassi. — Discomfiture 82
SECT. XX.
Yassi. — Whitsuntide . 84
SECT. XXI.
Yassi. — Final Overthrow .
86
SECT. XXII.
Yassi. — Pillage - 89
SECT. XXIII.
Moldavia. — Siege of Satjao 91
SECT. XXIV.
Moldavia. — Satjao 93
SECT. XXV.
Satjao. — Timotheus 94
SECT. XXVI.
Vasili. — Tartars 97
SECT. XXVII.
Moldavia. — Roman . 98
INDEX TO PART II.
BOOK 111. WALLACHIA.
SECT. 1. r*"°e
Raminko. — Bot/a. — Torghisht 1 17
SECT. II.
Torirhisht. — The Corta 121
SECT. 111.
Torghisht. — Feast of the Immersion 125
SEC1!'. IV.
Torghisht.— Churches. — Episcopal Palaces, 12!)
SECT. XIII.
Torghisht. — Departure. — Convent of Fil-
yeshti
SKCT. XIV.
MOLDAVIA.— The River Truth ........ 161
BOOK IV. COSSACK COl.'NTRY.
SECT. 1.
Cossack Country. — Rashkobao .......... lb'3
SECT. II.
Cossack Countr. — Dimitrashikobo ........ !<>(>
Torghisht.— Climate.— Manners .......... 1:52 SECT. III.
History of the Poles and Cossacks ........ lb'!)
SECT. VI.
Toro-hisht. — Funeral Rites. .
J33 SECT. IV.
Battle and War between the Poles & Cossacks, ! 71
SECT. VII.
SECT. V.
Torghisht.-Lent.-IlolyWeek 137 ; ^.^ Comltr>,_ Horajkoka, Liaskovska,
SECT. VIII. Jabokriz,&c 178
Torghisht.— Death of Matthi Beg 1 12 SECT. VI.
I Cossack Country. — Talalayoka, Horodoka,
SK('T- 1X' llomano 1^*
Torghisht. — Election of Constantino ., 115
SECT. VII.
SKCT. X. Cossack Country. — Crasnobola, Sakoka, and
Torghisht.— Funeral of Matthi Beg 148 ji lJsllacc of Kalinoska. .
SECT. VIII.
SECT. XI.
ij Cossack Country. — Bogi, Lisiuka, Madfad-
Torffhisht. — lnau»'ural Procession.. 150 i ici.j
kan, Isai
SECT. XII.
SECT. IX.
Wallachia.— Produce to Government. . 152 , Cossack Country.— Bogoslafi
19(5
NDEX TO PART II.
SECT. X.
Government of the Cossacks. — Fortress of
Boi>-oslali ..........................
SKCT. xr.
Cossack Country. — Kokari, Tri polls ...... 202
SKCT. XII.
Cossack Country. — Ohokhoya, Khamoka,Va-
SKCT. XV.
Convent of Nuns, and Printing House .... ->lf>
SECT. XVI.
Cossack Country. — Church Hells, and Ce
remonies
SKCT. XIII.
C'ossack Country. — Convent of Vahariska, 206
SKCT. XIV.
SKCT. XVII.
Cossack Country.— Ancient City of Kiev . . 221
SKCT. XVIII.
Balm EHa, and the French Philosopher .... 22^
SKCT. XIX.
Grotto and Cells of the Cossack Saints *u Ancient City of Kiov.-Church of St. Sophia, 22^
INDEX TO PART ITT.
BOOK V. SECT. I.
The COSSACK COIN THY. — City of Kiov.
— St. Sophia
SECT. II.
Brobari. — 1 lokhola. — Yadloka. — Ba-
sani. — Bakomi.— Brilmeloka .... 211
SECT. I If.
Brilmeloka. — The Troitsa Monastery . 21S
SECT. IV.
Olsham. — Yolobivnitsa. — Krobivna. —
Krasna. — Karabota 255
SECT. V.
Muscovy. — Potiblia. — Religious 1 labits
of the Muscovites 25S
SECT. VI.
Potiblia. — Treatment of Foreigners. —
Posting 2(i(>
SECT. VII.
Potiblia. — Description of the City and
Neighbourhood 270
SECT. VIII.
Description of the Clergy, and Church
Service and Ceremonies 272
SECT. IX.
Potiblia.— Tartar Slaves . 274
SECT. X.
Kyr Eremia. — Convent of the Mother of
God
SECT. XI.
Muscovy. — Travelling. — Exchange. —
Admission of Foreigners .
HOOK VI. SECT. I.
Mi scow. — Potiblia. — Imadikina. —
Tartar Captives
SECT. II.
Karoba. — Babok. — Barotiki. — I/mini-
kov. — Shifshka
SECT. III.
Zakharobo. — Agriculture and Harvests,
SECT. IV.
Horodish. — Architecture and Manufac
tures.— Janka. — Habits
SECT. V.
Samoh. — Crajava. — Bolkhofa. — Beh-
lofi. — JLifin
SECT. VI.
Kalokha. — Travelling by Land and
296
Water .
SECT. VII.
Navigation in Muscovy. — Aleksivka.—
Tarosa. — Kashira. — History of Ibn
01 Arab
SECT. VIII.
Troitsa and Galotafoni Convents. —
Castle of Kalomna
SECT. IX.
Description of the Bishopric and City of
Kalomna
SECT. X.
The Plague. — Solemn Procession. —
Origin of the Imperial Family . . . .
SECT. XL
Prayer for the Imperial House. — Church
Music. — Dress of the Clergy
305
30 S
313
319
INDEX TO PART IV.
BOOK VII. SECT. I.
First Day of the Year.— The Plague.
Funerals
SECT. II.
Siege of Smolensko. — Description of the
Town.— History of Radxivil ........ 335
SECT. III.
Russian Merchants. — War with the Poles, 337
SECT. IV.
Ceremonies of Ordination. — Winter Sea
son, and Markets. — Treatment of Dogs, 340
SECT. V.
Effects of the Plague. — Regulations for
Holy Orders and Matrimony. — Civility
and Piety of the Muscovites ........ 346
SECT. VI.
Life of St. Peter of Kiov.— Christmas Fes
tivities. — Mode of Petitioning ....... 349
SECT. VII.
Condition of the Clergy. — Festival of the
Immersion ...................... 352
SECT. VIII.
City of Tola, and Iron Works. — Arch
bishop of Razainov. — Conversion of
Infidels ......................... 356
SECT. IX.
Secrecy of the Muscovites. — Removal to
Moscow. — Kosakow. — Vishino ...... 359
SECT. X.
Entry into Moscow. — Description of the
Fortress. — Ecclesiastical Habit and Con
versation . , ..... 363
BOOK VIII. SECT. I.
Return of Nicon, Patriarch of Moscow. —
Solemn Entry of the Emperor into
Moscow. — Kremlin 366
SECT. II.
Winter Campaign of the Poles— their
Defeat by the Cossacks. — Gathering of
the Tartar Tribes 370
SECT. III.
Presents to the Emperor and Imperial
Family. — Reception of the Patriarch at
Court 373
SECT. IV.
Visit to the Patriarch of Moscow. — Enter
tainment at the Emperor's Table 386
SECT. V.
Presents to the Patriarch of Moscow and
the Russian Grandees. — Veneration of
the Russians for Churches and Images —
Their Buildings, Titles of Honour,
Laws, and Customs 395
SECT. VI.
Grants of the Emperor to Foreign Ecclesi
astics and Travellers 402
SECT. VII.
Devotion of the Emperor. — Solovoska Con
vent. — History of the Patriarch Nicon, 405
SECT. VIII.
Admission to Holy Orders. — Commemora
tion Service and Banquet 411
SECT. IX.
Account of the Dog-faced Tribe 415
TRAVELS
M A C A R I U S
CFROM THE ARABIC/
ERRATA.
P. 10. 1.25. read Kwwv.
P. 11. 1. 13 Kablouja.
P. 20. 1. 10 The Rich Man and Lazarus.
P. 40. 1.28 in Hellenic Greek.
P. 56. 1. 28 wearing the sword in a scarf.
P. 63. 1.19 U; *U
P. 91. 1.21 Cogfeon.
tysAai viov passim
v anon ((_j^-}) f aul, son of the Canon Abd-al-Mesih-al-Protos, celebrated by the
title of Beit-az-Zaaimi. I was brought up in the closest intimacy and union with
my father, having no relish for any friendship but his, from the time that I was
weaned from my mother's breast by her lamented death. Thereupon he took
the pains to attend me; nor had I any but him to assuage my grief. My con
stant food were his vivifying words ; and my drink were his sweet and invigorating
instructions. I obeyed him in every command ; and wherever he was, there
was I, at all times inseparable from his company. After various promotions, lie
" KyrKyr Macarius."] Kyr Kyr, a contraction of the Greek Kvptog KU/O/OS ; and answering to tin-
French title, Monsieur Monsieur.
B
MACARIUS.
(FROM THE ARABIC.)
PREFACE.
IN THE NAME OF THE ONE ETERNAL GoD, WITHOUT BEGINNING AND WITHOUT END.
IN HIM IS MY CONFIDENCE, AND UPON HIM MY RELIANCE.
1 RAISE to God, who formed the heaven, and raised it without pillars ; who
spread the earth, and laid it as an habitation for His servants ; so that the sons
of our father Adam have become nations exceeding all number, and have mul
tiplied on it ; and built towns, and cities, and capitals in every climate and coun
try, and on every side, south and north, east and west. To his Sovereignty and
Divinity it is fitting that we offer praise ever and at all times, now and con
tinually, throughout all ages.
I, the poor servant, and of all men the most necessitous of the mercy, of the
Lord my God ; Paul by name, Archdeacon, or Shammas, of the Orthodox
Religion, of Aleppo, was natural son to the Distinguished, Most Holy, Exalted,
and Munificent Father, Kyr Kyr Macarius*, Patriarch of Antioch, son of the late
Canon (^^-l) Paul, son of the Canon Abd-al-Mesih-al-Protos, celebrated by the
title of Beit-az-Zaaimi. I was brought up in the closest intimacy and union with
my father, having no relish for any friendship but his, from the time that I was
weaned from my mother's breast by her lamented death. Thereupon he took
the pains to attend me; nor had I any but him to assuage my grief. My con
stant food were his vivifying words ; and my drink were his sweet and invigorating
instructions. I obeyed him in every command ; and wherever he was, there
was I, at all times inseparable from his company. After various promotions, he
" Kyr Kyr Macarius"} Kyr Kyr, a contraction of the Greek Kvpios Kvpios ; and answering to the
French title, Monsieur Monsieur.
B
2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
became Metropolitan of Aleppo, where he remained twelve years. He then
ascended the throne of the Patriarchate of Antioch, the See of Peter (the Apo
stle), the first in rank, which is at the present day established in Damascus of
Syria. Here for a length of time he devoted his incessant labours to the regu
lation of the affairs of his Province, and governed it with upright intention and
the most clear-sighted prudence; till lie was led, by the hand of Providence,
to the enterprise of a tour through the remotest of countries, of towns, and of
islands : not for recreation, nor for the pleasure of travelling, nor to make visits;
but forced to it by the straits and difficulties of the times, which left him no will
to choose : for the debts of the above-mentioned See, incurred during the life
time of the late Patriarch, Kyr Kphthimius, the Sciot, of well-known celebrity,
were by this time doubled, and its revenues eaten up by usury ; so that the
farmers of the tithes, however great the collection or abundant the harvests,
could not make them suffice to the payment of the interest. Astounded and
depressed with anguish at the sight of this distress, he sighed over the hope of a
release. But in his own country he could find none to interpose between him
and this increasing misery, nor any one to suggest a plan of escape.
No resource remained, but to stir the foot of activity, and to mount the patient
horse of toil and travel. He determined upon turning his face and steps towards
the high road of royalty, and, crossing the weary paths of the sandy desert, to make
his way good to the fountains of sweet water, rather the vast and swelling lakes,
the lords of high excellences and precious qualities, the refuge of the suppliant
and contentment of the applicant, the powerful and victorious Monarchs, and the
pious Princes and Begs, who are celebrated for their true religion and sincere
faith, (may God continue their empire and perpetuate their dynasty ! may he
confirm their existence, and eternize in the zenith of splendour the towers of
their felicity!) to beg of their generosity and rare munificence, wherewithal to pay
his debts ; and help, to stand up in the support of his religion. Upon this
journey I resolved to be his companion, with a view to assist him in its fatigues
and dangers ; and, with the Divine favour, we made our preparations for it, and
fixed our minds upon the route.
Forthwith, one of my most respected and sincere friends, my reverend, learned
and excellent Brother, the phoenix of his age and admiration of his contemporaries,
Deacon Gabriel, son of the late Constantine, the goldsmith, a man superior in ability,
eminent in learning, and of intuitive elegance of language and manners; this friend
expressed to me his wish, that I would collect a Journal, that should contain every
circumstance and incident of our way and deviations, from day to day, during the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3
whole time of our absence ; that 1 would describe with accuracy the whole of the
affairs of those countries through which we should pass ; and so enable him to
verify, in general and in particular, what he heard of them from the details of
history, and its mysteries. I excused myself to him, that I was unequal to the
undertaking, being deficient in the requisite means — in the art of composing and
joining sentences, in the grammatical precision of words, and in the skill of form
ing beautiful and appropriate phrases, after the manner of the masters of this
queen of sciences : and I asked him to pardon my inability ; the more so, as we
should travel with inconvenience and haste. But he refused to accept this ex-
cusation for me ; and, insisting on his request, persevered in its repetition.
I now therefore roused my languid mind, and stretched towards the object mv
recoiling hand: not that I may take rank in the troop of Chroniclers, but wishing
to confirm a multitude of facts, which have hitherto been disbelieved to their
reporters, and to which all men refuse their due credit ; being of opinion, that
the writers have noted such matters merely in jest, and for their own amusement,
or that of their readers. So thought we; until, in the progress of our journey to
the country of the Christians, either by becoming a personal witness, or by hearing
indubitable accounts, I verified to the utmost whatever met the glance of an ob
serving eye, not only in part, but comprehensively. What we shall relate, there
fore, will he upon the surest evidence ; and we will omit nothing, which, either
along the road, or during our halts in various places, until our return to our own
country, we were able to ascertain as matter of truth. Accustomed from my
childhood to devote stated hours to the study of history, I have passed much time
with my attention fixed upon its interesting pages. Whatever ability, therefore,
I may have acquired by such pursuits, I have summoned to the performance of
the present work : and having exerted my utmost efforts in collecting all the
V
information which came within my reach, I hope it will prove a delight to the
reader, and a solace to his mind ; and that all who see or hear it, will bless
Almighty God for this TREASURE OF DESCRIPTIONS AND ENTERTAINING
NARRATIVES.
May the Christian community of our country derive a multitude of benefits
from hearing of the noble customs of the true Believers in foreign parts; of their
assiduity in divine worship with boundless perseverance; of their strict observance
of the seasons of fast and hours of prayer; of their admirable religiousness, perfect
faith, and sound morality ; and of the purity of their intentions, thoughts and
Such will be our descriptions in the course of this work, elucidating
and explaining what with our own eyes we have seen and witnessed.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
BOOK I.
SECT. I.
A L EPP O.—A N TI O CH.
OUR Father and Lord the Patriarch, with the fairest purpose and upright
intent, having fixed his determination upon turning his face and travels towards
the city of Constantinople, we prepared accordingly, and took what was necessary
for presents and offerings, and provided ourselves with other requisites; confiding
in Almighty God, and trusting to his protection.
On the evening of Thursday the ninth day of the month Tamouz, he (may God
prolong his existence!) went up from Aleppo towards Ladikia and Gebileh, to
collect his dues in those parts, and then return to Antioch. I, his poor historian,
and the rest of his companions, went forth on the Tuesday morning, the Feast of
the Prophet Elias, and came in the evening to a town called Maarethwan. The
next morning we arose and came to Hadim and Gotrarin; which last is a town
in the neighbourhood of the new bridge, Jisr al Jadid, on a bank of the Aasi,
where we slept, We entered Antioch on Thursday the twenty-second of Tamouz ;
and there assisted at mass, on Sunday, the seventh after Pentecost. We then set
off on a visit to the Convent of Saint Simeon, the Worker of Miracles, the Sailor,
by the straight old Roman road, which they have opened anew within these few
years, after it had been entirely forgotten for a length of time. How often, in
former years, when we started for a visit to this convent, were we taken along
the Soucidieh road, by the Church of Saint Spiridion, built on the spot where his
enemies cut off the heads of his asses ; and having passed a night in the town
Zeitounieh, continued our pilgrimage to the convent on the following day, over
a very difficult road, through an immense forest ! This road, on the contrary, is
smooth, straight, and near ; and our Lord the Patriarch, from the information he
drew of it from the history of the Saint, had frequently inquired about it. Till the
present year, however, it was not discovered nor opened. But now, thanks to God !
we enjoyed it exceedingly: for on the evening of the same day we passed on to
the Great Convent of the Saint, and performed 'A^u-rv/a (Vigils) and
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 5
in the Katholic Church there : for there are seven churches in all. The
greatest part of the buildings are of stone ; and in the surrounding wall are four
gates: the largest looks towards the Gulph of Soueidieh. This place is exceed
ing strong; the river Aasi descending on its eastern sides, along the bottom of the
valley. This stream appears to enter the sea close to the mountain Akra, and
the ships are supplied from it with fresh water.
After having said mass here, we returned to Antakieh (Antioch) ; whither also,
on Thursday the twenty-ninth of Tamouz, came our Lord the Patriarch. Here,
during a residence of six days, he performed as many masses : after which we
hired horses, and left the town on the evening of Thursday the fifth of the
month Ab ; and passing the next morning through Bilan, arrived in the after
noon at IskanderouneJi, It happened to be the eve of the Feast of the Transfigu
ration, and we were received by the Kabarisa with the greatest honour. In their
church we assisted at the 'Ay^im/a. At the time of the EiVo^oj, all the Clergy
came in ; and taking a blessing, they changed their robes, and, according to
custom, went round in the E/'Woj, chaunting, " O resplendent light !" In the
morning, our Lord the Patriarch said mass. In the evening we left this place ;
and arrived early the next day, which was Saturday, at Bayas, where the Patriarch
performed mass on Sunday, the eighth after Pentecost; afterwards, on the Mon
day and Wednesday. Towards evening we took our departure ; and, having halted
the next morning at Jisr Albarnas, we passed on to Karn Capi. The road here
is frightful, being a narrow defile, attended with every kind of danger.
On the morrow we arrived at Khan Kourd Koitlak, or Wolfs Ears ; for in
the khan is a mosque with two cupolas, exactly resembling that animal's ears.
Hence we departed at midnight, in company with eighteen carabiniers, Chris
tians from Bayas ; and early in the morning entered Misscyisa. The Castle of
Heyal was on our right hand. At midnight we resumed our march, and passed
over a bridge of the River Gilion, called Elchihan. In the morning, which was
Saturday the fourteenth of the month Ab, we arrived at Adana, and alighted in
the gardens of our Greek Church or Community, which forms a town of great
size, and has within it many gardens. In each of them are more than three or
four hundred stocks of the orange-tree, equal in size to the largest mulberry-
trees : the rent of each is four piastres. Sweet lemon-trees, and other kinds of
orange-plants, are also very abundant. As to our Lord the Patriarch, he went to
collect his revenues at Tarsus and the smaller towns of Trimor and JaJ'er Pasha.
and the towns of the Kabarisa in that direction. Then he returned to Adana : and
we departed thence in the night of the twenty-ninth of Ab, in the company of an
6
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Aga of Turkomans from Damascus. Before noon we came to Khan B air am
Pasha, and alighted on a bank of the river Jakut. In the evening we arose, and
marched the whole night through woods and over stony ground. It was very-
dark, and we suffered the greatest terrors. The morning brought us to the Fort
Kolik; and we passed Kodook Khan, that is, " The Khan of Walnuts," for
around it are walnut-trees in great numbers. Before noon we alighted at Takir,
which is the celebrated Eilet of Ibn llama/an.
Early next morning we arose, and passed through Sultan Khan; the fort of
Auasha remaining on our right hand. We then passed Ak Kupri, that is,
i4 the White Bridge/' which was formerly the limit between the Emperors of
the Circassians and the Othmans. Thence we crossed the River Kirk Ghctchi,
or the Forty-Ford River; for we forded it forty times, well counted. Before
noon we arrived at Cliifta Khan, that is, Coupled Khan. It is certain that
these roads are impassable in winter, from their narrowness, and by reason of
their overflowing waters and numerous rivers. We halted for the space of two
hours; and then arose to march on to the Khan Mohammed Pasha, which is
Yenghi Khan, or Oleti Kushliik ; and the evening came on before we had yet
reached it : we therefore alighted at some houses of the Turkomans ; being, as I
have mentioned, in the company of their Aga, and slept this night with them.
Early in the morning of Wednesday the first of the month Iloul, the commence
ment Of the YEAR OF THE WORLD SEVEN THOUSAND ONE HUNDRED and SIXTY-ONE, We
arose, to come to Bar; and began our march through its territory, which is pro
perly named Bor (uncultivated). For a day's journey, either in length or
breadth, there is not a green herb to be seen, but the earth is burnt black.
Durino- this day we suffered extreme affliction, till we arrived in the evening at
Bor, which is a beautiful village, of cheap supplies, abounding in streams of
water, and multiplied in riches. Every thing here is cheap. The Ritl, Litre, or
Pound, Aleppo weight, of flesh-meat is four Paras; and the Ritl of bread, three.
A Ritl, or Litre, of the best old wine is five Paras: the new is sold at one. There
is abundance of rob, or treacle, of grapes. Here is also a very wonderful manu
factory of gunpowder, worked by wheels, similar to those of a water-mill for
corn: they are very large; and, as the streams of water turn them, they raise
and sink beams of wood placed in a row, to pound the powder, which only one
man is employed to stir and move by day, and another by night. It is a great
and effectual contrivance, attended with little fatigue. The Christians in this
place are very religious, and their language is the Turkish. They made us
alight with them, and gave us the handsomest reception.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 7
We performed mass in a church they have, in the name of the Five Moons or
Lights, Eugenius and his Companions, on Sunday, the thirteenth after Pentecost.
There is a very small cave under the altar of this church. We staid with these
people eight days ; and on the eve of the Feast of the Nativity of our Lady, the
eighth of Iloul, we departed with an escort of Turkomans, whom they hired to
go with us, from that evening till the afternoon of the next day, a distance of
twenty hours. It was a long and frightful stage, over a land burnt up with
drought; in which we suffered, from the greatness of the heat and from thirst,
sufficient to perish both ourselves and our beasts. We had indeed given our
selves up to despair ; but, by the favour of the Creator, (blessed be his name!) and
the intercession of the Virgin his Mother, we arrived in the afternoon at a
village of the Turkomans, called Kincan. We were very near yielding up our
souls ; and our cattle in particular were at the extremity of death : but they
immediately conducted us all together to the water, and our breath returned to
us. For sake of the abundant water in this town, we made a halt with them on
Friday. In the evening we proceeded with them over dreadful roads, and the
next day arrived at Kara Yenar. From Chifta Khan we had passed along the
Imperial Road to Constantinople, whither it leads through Khan Mohammed
Pasha Yenghi Khan ; and from this place through Erekli and Kara Yenar:
whence we set out before midnight, and came to Esmil in the forenoon.
SECT. II.
I C O N I U M.
HENCE we again started in the evening; and before noon on Sunday, the
fourteenth after Pentecost, and the eleventh day of the month Iloul, we arrived
at Ilwuielt (Iconium) ; where we attended the Feast of the Cross, in a church
belonging to our Greek Community, and having a roof of wood. Afterwards we
went to visit the Convent of Saint Chariton, whose Festival is on the twenty-
sixth of Iloul. The convent is at a short distance of two hours from the city.
The whole edifice, and also its churches and repositories, are of quarry-stone,
from the mountain. The principal church is exceeding large and lofty, built
also with its temples of quarry-stone. Behind the holy table is a cave, to
which you descend by steps, where the Saint devoted himself to the worship of
God ; and wherein is shewn you a long stone, in the shape of a pillow, which
they informed us was his pillow. In this church is a Tomb, on which is written
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
in Greek, " Who begot the Son ?" on porphyry : and calculating its chronology,
we found that it is five hundred years old at the present time. In like manner,
upon the door of the church, its epoch is inscribed in Greek. All the rest of the
churches arc small. At a short distance outside the convent is an ancient
cave, into which you descend by steps : in it the robbers confined the Saint, as
their prisoner. Here is a large spring, which he caused to burst forth for
them, and of which the water is delicious. We slept in the convent the night
preceding Wednesday the fifteenth of Iloul, and in the morning returned
to the city. The walls of it are large, and it contains surprising edifices,
and many paintings, and portraits of persons, who are as it were speaking.
We went to see the Establishment of the Mollakhanah of the holy Molla
Khandkar, in which are some remarkably handsome buildings : the chan
deliers of silver and gold, and the lamps, which have been selected from the
treasuries of Kings and Emperors, are very numerous. One chandelier, shaped
into every kind of flower-stalk, weighs ninety okas of gold and silver. The
steps of ascent to his tomb are of silver. Near to it is the tomb of the Monk,
his companion; upon which is a black garment, and a large black turban. The
pavement of the steps consists of entire slabs of marble, cut thin, as though
they were plates of silver. At the sight of these wonders, every person who
enters this place is perfectly astonished. The Chief, and the rest of the
Dervishes, entertain great love for Christians and Monks. They had admitted us,
and shewed us about, whilst we on our parts were full of dread and apprehension.
As to the tribe of Turkomans, there is a curse upon them, should they not
admit them.
We now joined company with a Cadi of Aleppo, and the Caravan from that
place; and setting out on Thursday, arrived the next morning at Lndak; which
place, in the Swuafa^a (Martyrology), is named Litavernieh, and contains a
magnificent church dedicated to Saint Michael, besides Roman edifices, and many
other churches. We left it at the approach of evening; and arrived early the
next day at a village called Algham, on the outside of which is a Hammam, or
Bath, called Kibloujah, of hot water ; and near to it is also one of cold water.
In the evening we again departed; and came in the morning of the next day,
which was Saturday the eighteenth of Iloul, to a village called A k Shc/ir, cele
brated for the tomb of Haja. After travelling again all night, the next day brought
us to Sakla. It was the first Sunday after the Feast of the Cross. At midnight
we again started, and in the morning reached Belaido7i. The whole road from
Sakla to Belaidon is furnished with bridges, and paved with stone. Setting off in
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 9
the evening, and having passed the stage Khan Bayaz in the night, we came
next day to Khan Khosrof Pasha, whence we departed again in the dusk of the
evening ; and the next day, Wednesday, arrived at Seyyid Ghazi. This place
we quitted at the approach of night; and on Thursday, the twenty-fourth of
Iloul, came to Eski Shehr, the yellow water-melons of which are famous: they
are very sweet; and from their firmness, being hung up, they keep till winter.
Here, during Friday, we reposed : and setting forth on the eve of Saturday,
arrived the next morning at Yeuz Hok.
Saturday evening we again departed, and arrived next day at Bazojih. It
was the second Sunday after the Feast of the Cross. The road from beginning
to end of the last day's journey was narrow. On the right of it is a mountain,
and a forest; on the left, a river, to look down upon which is frightful.
We set out again in the evening; and on Monday morning arrived at Yengi
Shchr. The next station, of Khan Ak Beyik, we entered in the night : and
here we parted from the Stamboul Caravan, and slept in the khan. On the
morning of Tuesday we left this place; and at noon came to a populous town,
called Hazaveng, wrhich lies half-way between Yengi Shehr and Broussa. Here
we ate Turkish milk of indescribable lusciousness, and equally delicious bread
and melons. Here is a fountain (Jlusj') of sweet wrater, cold to a degree of
wonder.
SECT. III.
BROUSSA.
Now, we entered JBroussa on the evening of the aforesaid Tuesday, being the
twenty-eighth of the month Iloul. We alighted at the Yengi Khan, among the
natives of Aleppo ; the meeting with whom gave expansion to our hearts. With
them we passed the night : and in the morning of Wednesday, there came to the
Khan all the Clergy and all the Archons of Broussa; and they took us to the
quarter Kaya JBas/ii, where their church is, dedicated to Our Lady. This
church is as all their churches. They clothed our Lord the Patriarch in the
Mantia (Mav^wa)* at the end of the street; where the priests and deacons met
us with torches and thuribles; and the singers chaunted all the while, till we
entered the church. Here was first mentioned the name of the Sovereign ; after
wards, that of the Patriarch of Antioch and of All the East ; and then followed
a, the Pallium, or Pall.
c
10
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the whole of the proclamation. They lodged us in a house near the church : and
in the mornin0' of Saturday, the second of Teshrin the first,, they took us, in
company with our hosts from Aleppo, to the warm baths Eski Kablouja; in the
hot and refreshing waters of which we bathed, and then went to the garden
of Kcsenta.
In the evening, on our return, we performed the 'Etrxegiyov (Vesper Service) of
the Eve of Sunday, the third after the Feast of the Cross, in the aforesaid
church. From this place, Broussa, to Constantinople, and thence as far as
\Vallachia and Moldavia, including the adjacent countries, the Christians are not
in the habit of performing the 'Ayfysru/a (Vigils) as we do in our country : but
when it is a great festival, they perform it on the preceding eve, before the mid
night prayer, and continually throw incense at the Kvote ixgce,%ct (O Lord, I have
cried), till the time of the Ao'fa (Glory, or Doxology) : in the mean time the
congregation is assembling. They mentioned in the proclamation the name of
our Lord the Patriarch first ; afterwards the names of their Metropolitans. At
the E<Vo$o£*,all the priests present took the Kogwq, and put on their copes after
their custom, and walked round in the Ei'<rodo$, singing " () Divine Light :"
and it is a sign, when a priest walks round in the Effotiog the evening before,
that he is coming to perform mass the next day. Remark, that the Principal,
or head of the priests, has the duty of repeating the Psalm for Sun-set,
and " O Divine Light," and, " Now dismiss thy servant :" and so, in the
Morning Prayer, he has to repeat the Morning Psalms, and then " Glory to the
Sender of light," £c. On the morning of the before-mentioned Sunday, our Lord
the Patriarch said mass in this church. Throughout all the country of Greece
they begin with the Kaiwf first; and after the seventh 'Q^ (Hymn) and the
2vvu%oi§itt,l (Martyrology), they saylla<ra vvor, \\ and the Gospel, and " Save, O
God, thy people;" and the officiating priest comes out carrying the Gospel to the
* " The EiffoSo?."] The Introit, the solemn entry of the priests into that division of the church
where the altar stands, and which is separated from the body of the church by a lofty screen adorned
with paintings of our Saviour, the Virgin, and the Saints. In this screen are three doors. Ihe priests
and deacons, at certain periods of the service, come forth from one of the side doors, make the circuit of
the church, and re-enter the sanctuary by the great middle door ; which entrance of theirs is called
" Ihe EiVoSos."
7 " The K«v<wv" is a particular psalm, sung at this part of the service.
£ " The Zi/i/«£«pi«," a Compendium of the Lives of Saints and Martyrs, read in the church to the
people.
|| <•' Ilaow itvon" Every breath; with which words a portion of the Greek Service just preceding
the Gospel commences.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1 \
head priest, that he may kiss it ; and then all that are present kiss it likewise.
He goes out with it also to the women, that they may kiss it in like manner ;
and then returns to the thurible. As to the hours, they are altogether neglected
by the Greeks, except the first hour, or prime, at break of day ; and so they
close their service : but the priest, as he says mass, repeats them all in secret.
In the country of the Cossacks, however, and at Moscow, they say them loud
and publicly, as with us. In the procession with the body, the deacons go out
before, and the priests behind it. In all this country, except Moscow, the whole
of the persons present in the church go into the sanctuary to take the 'Am'^a*
(Remunerations) from the hand of the head priest or the officiating minister. He
even goes out to the women and children, and imparts the Communion to them.
On Saturday the ninth of Teshrin the first, they took us to the warm baths
Yengi Klabouja, which resemble Behram Basha and Mustafa Basha at Damascus
and Aleppo. We visited the source of this water; which boils as it springs out
of the rock, and throws up a smoke into the misty air. Its smell is sulphureous;
and it is impossible for any one to hold in it his hand ; for it scalds fowls, and
boils eggs, as we ourselves witnessed: on this account three or four cold waters
are mixed with it, to bring it to a just temperature. The baths are an immense
structure.
On the morning of Sunday, the fourth after the Festival of the Cross,
our Lord the Patriarch was invited by the priests and principal inhabitants of the
quarter called Balik Bazaar to say mass in their church, which is dedicated in the
name of St. John the Evangelist. He went thither accordingly, and performed
mass. This church is double (<&AU), as the others are. On the eve of Tuesday,
he was again invited by the inhabitants of the quarter called Damir Gibi to their
church, where he performed the ceremony of the ' ' Kyiatrpog,]* and slept there.
On Wednesday the twelfth of Teshrin the first, and the sixteenth day of our
abode in Broussa, we departed, after taking leave of the principal inhabitants; who
accompanied us as far as Modanir, from which place the whole population issued
forth to meet the Patriarch, at a considerable distance. They took us directly to
their High Church, called after the Assumption of Our Lady: and the deacon
15 The 'AVT^CWKX consist of holy bread, which is sanctified during the service of the mass, and at Un
close of it is distributed to the people. This bread is however quite distinct from the consecrated, or
as the Greeks consider it the transubstantiated, bread of the Eucharist. The Sacrament is administered
to the laity four times a year, but this holy bread is distributed after every celebration of the mass.
1- 1 he 'AyiKffftos, the Purification, or Sanctification : but to what particular ceremony it alludes, I am
not aware. — //. D, L.
-
ig TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
mentioned first the name of the Patriarch of Constantinople ; secondly, that of
the Patriarch of Antioch: but they omitted any mention of their Metropolitan,
Clementus, (God erase his name from the Book of Life!) for his haughtiness of
mind, being hated by all the people; particularly at the present time., when he
declined coming out to meet the Patriarch and welcome his arrival. For this
reason we staid a very short time here, and performed no mass. But the people
honoured us much; for they are exceedingly good Christians, and very religious.
They lodged us in the house of the Archon Krishi Tourti, upon the sea-shore.
In this place are about twenty churches. Within the Metropolitan's palace is a
small church, in the name of the Divine Manifestation; and under it is a spring
of water. The church is adorned with a painting of the Holy Mountain and all
its Monasteries. Hence we went to visit the Church of St. Theodorus, which is
very beautiful: and afterwards that of St. George. The rest of the churches we
had not an opportunity of visiting, because we were in haste to embark upon the
sea, and pass over to Constantinople before the tempestuous season of St.
Demetrius.
They hired for us a boat, at eight hundred othmanis; and we left Modanir on
Friday the 16th of Teshrin. Having rowed us about twelve miles, till the evening,
they cast anchor; and at midnight they again started. We had scarcely got out
into the middle of the sea, when, of a sudden, there sprung up a violent gale, and
the waves were agitated. The storm increased to such a degree, that the boat
was near sinking with us, from the attack of the huge foaming billows; and our
sense fled from us, so that we cried and sobbed like children *. Giving ourselves
up for lost, we bade adieu to each other, and openly confessed our sins; and our
Lord the Patriarch read over us the Prayer of forgiveness, absolution, and re
mission, whilst we were in momentary expectation of approaching death. But
the Creator, exalted be his name ! who neglect eth not his servants, did not
abandon us ; and by the intercession for us of the Virgin his Mother, the pre
server and refuge of all who are in distress— of St. Nicholas — of St. Simeon the
Wonder-worker, the seaman, the Aleppian— of St. George, the rider upon sea
and land— and of St. Demetrius, whose festival was approaching (for both before
and after it this storm is dreaded by navigators) — the waves subsided ; and after
* I can bear testimony to the uncertainty of the navigation of the Sea of Marmora ; having, in a
similar passage from Moudania (in the Arabic text written Modanir") to Constantinople, in an open
boat, experienced just such a storm as assailed the Patriarch. I never felt myself in greater peril.
Boats are often lost in this passage ; as these gusts of wind come on in the Sea of Marmora with
great violence, and often with scarcely any warning. — H.D.L.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 13
immense fatigue and mighty fear, our sailors succeeded in rowing us to land ; where
they lowered the sail, after the mast had narrowly escaped being broken by the
furious gale that blew. At first we could not believe that we were safe ; till the
men leaped on shore, and we had leisure to contemplate our pitiable condition.
In the morning they rowed us to the famous Khan Bouzbouronn, and here cast
anchor. We found many ships at anchor in this place, from dread of the
weather. We staid at Bouzbouroun from the morning Of the Saturday before
mentioned, till midnight preceding Tuesday; when the weather having become
favourable, they set sail with us, and arrived in the morning at a village called
the Katerli. We landed for the purpose of visiting its church, which is dedi
cated in the name of Saint Kyriaki. In the evening we came to a populous
town on the beach of the island, cited in the Swcd^o, (Martyrology), and in
History, by the name Hgturq, that is, the First. Its present name is J3irigi *.
It contains the monuments of the Patriarchs of Constantinople up to this day.
In it are three churches ; one dedicated to our Lady, another to St. Demetrius,
and the third to St. George. At midnight we re-commenced our journey; and in
the morning came to Escudar. We had passed by the city of C/ialcedonia, and
aLo;}!] j,/ The Widow's Vineyard, which John the Chrysostom carried away. It is up
to the present time (s^ *^) in semblance of an island. The city is now called
Kadi Gun, that is, almost in sound, Chalcedonia,
SECT. IV.
C 0 NS TA NT IN OPLE.
WE entered Constantinople in the forenoon of Wednesday the twentieth of
Teshrin the first. Since our departure from Aleppo, it was just three months
complete on this day. We alighted in the Monastery of the Resurrection, which
is within the gate of the Kabr, and near to the Patriarch's palace. Our own Pa
triarch had sent from Broussa a Letter to Kyr Paisius, the Patriarch of Constan
tinople, and to his Metropolitans, to ask their permission to visit Constantinople.
c Birigl is merely the Turkish word for IJpwTij (Prote), or the First, The Turks call it by the
former name ; the Greeks l.y the latter. There is a cluster of islands in the Sea of Marmora, about
twelve miles from Constantinople ; of which the first you approach from the city is called Prote. From
the description however of the island at which the Patriarch touched, it could riot have been Prote,
which has no town on it. and no habitation but a monastery ; but was probably Prinkipo, the largest
island of the cluster, and the first he would arrive at, on coming from Moudania.
i 1 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
as was the ancient custom. With this they were exceedingly pleased ; as, in con
trariety to those who preceded him, he had done the civility required: and thev
immediately sent him a "Svo-rurDCov (or Patriarchal Letter), witli permission, in the
fullest magnificence. And now, in the evening, our Lord the Patriarch begged
leave to visit them the following day. On Thursday morning, therefore, the Pa
triarch of Constantinople sent to him, at the moment of his intended coming, the
aforesaid Metropolitans; who repaired to his presence, and conducted him to the
Patriarch's palace. As soon as he entered the gate, two priests met him; the one
carrying the Gospel, the other an image; and also the deacons, with the thurible,
dressed in their copes: and he kissed the Gospel and the image, according to
custom; and the Deacons incensed him. Then one of the Metropolitans put into
his hand a silver crosier ; and the singing chaplains ( joLa^) began to c haunt
"A%iov lo-Ttv, till they entered with him into the1 Patriarchal church, which is dedi
cated in the name of St. George. Whilst he was performing his devotions to the
images which are upon the door of the tabernacle, behold the Patriarch of Constan
tinople came down; and, entering the church in his [tuvdva (pall), stood before his
throne. They placed our Lord the Patriarch at a throne opposite to him.
And the deacon said, " Have mercy on us, O God, according to thy great
mercy :" and he made mention of Alexis, Emperor of Moscow, and of the
Empress Maria ; of Vasili Beg, of Moldavia, and his consort Katherina ; of
Matthew Beg, of Wallachia, and his wife Helena ; then of Kyr Paisius, the
Patriarch of Constantinople, and Kyr Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch ; and
the chaplains chaunted at each name Kvgts tt^crov (" O Lord, have mercy upon
us"), three times.
Upon the conclusion of the service by the officiating priest, the two Patri
archs came down from their thrones ; and having granted pardon to each
other for their faults, they walked together, two persons preceding them
with large silver candlesticks holding a camphor-taper; and the Metropolitans
following behind, till they mounted up to the Patriarch's divan. Here they
sat down to table, whilst the chaplains continued to sing. The Constanti-
nopolitan treated our Lord with all attention, and abundant kindness and
good-will. They presented so many different kinds of food, and such varieties
of wine, that their description is impossible. Towards the evening, the
Patriarchs went down to perform the evening prayers ; and then took leave of
each other. Our Lord the Patriarch returned to the Monastery, with the
Metropolitans and clergy before and behind him; with the Kabi Kachia (Uitf 0
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US. \.-j
of Moldavia*, and the Kabi Kacliia of Wallachia, and others, following, till he
dismissed them with a blessing. The grandees among the Christians continually
came to pay their salutations to him.
On the eve of the Sunday of the (^^jos^l), our Lord the Patriarch went
over to the Patriarchal church, at the invitation of the Constantinopolitan ; and
they both entered in their pcwduas (palls) together, and performed at the
same time their devotions to the images; and there was standing before each of
them a man holding two silver candlesticks with camphor-tapers, from the
beginning of the service to the end. The Ka^/o^ara of the Psalms f were
recited by one of the deacons, standing between the two Patriarchs. At the
Aofa (Doxology) the priests began to perform, two by two, their Msm^;as;|;
to the Constantinopolitan, a first and second time; and as far as five couple, also
to the Antiochian : then they went in, and put on their copes, and walked
round the ~El'orodo$ ; and afterwards drew up near the Patriarch, in the form of ;\
half circle. After the deacon had incensed the doors of the tabernacle, throw
ing the thurible at a distance ; and then the two Patriarchs, and the priests.
and the rest of the assistants within the choir ; the priests began to chaunt
" O Divine Light," in a very loud voice. Then the deacon returned to incense
the Patriarchs; and the priests began to perform Koguvy to them, two and two,
till they entered the tabernacle, and put off their copes: for such is their custom,
on the eve of a Sunday or distinguished festival. These priests belong to the
churches of the districts around the Patriarch's palace; and this is a sign that
they are preparing overnight for mass, as we mentioned before. At the end of
the prayer, after they had taken their blessing together, the two Patriarchs went
outside the church, with two torch-bearers before them, and the whole
congregation standing in rows. Then one of the torch-bearers shouted witli
a loud voice, " Paisius, of all holiness, Archbishop of the City of Con
stantinople, the New Rome, and Patriarch of the Inhabited World, rioXAcc
TO, try" | (May your years be many!) — three times: whilst the Patriarch, raising
The Kabi Kacliia of Moldavia and the Kabi Kachia of Wallachia are the Agents of the Princi -
of those two Provinces ; who reside at Constantinople, to transact the political and ecclesiastical busi
ness of their Masters with the Porte and the Greek Patriarchate.
•f- " TItc I^a6iffp.ara of the Psalms.''] The Book of P.salms is, in the Greek Church, divided into
twenty Katf/o^rxTa or portions (literally Sessions) ; which are read at certain times, according to the
regulations of the Rubric.
I " Their Merctvo/ocs" — inclinations of the body, amounting almost to prostrations, which the priests
make to the Patriarch, and Archbishops, proportioned to their respective dignities, at certain periods
of the service.
II rioAA/x T« e-n; (" Many years to you. f ") is also, in common intercourse, the usual salutation.
16 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
his right hand, was blessing the people. In like manner, the hearer of the other
torches cried out, " Macarius, of all goodness, Patriarch of the City of God,
Antioch the Great, and of All the East:" and he said, IloXXa ra 'irq, three
times ; whilst the Antiochian also raised his right hand, and blessed the people.
Then they put off their fActi/ducts (palls) ; and the Constantinopolitan took the
other up with him to his palace, where they dined together. Afterwards, he
accompanied his guest to the gate at the lower part of the house, where In-
parted with him; and the Antiochian returned to his monastery, in a very happy
disposition of mind.
On the morning of the afore-mentioned Sunday, we repaired again to the same
church; and the Metropolitans came out to the court-yard to meet our master:
and having robed him in his fxMvtivt* (pall), they went before and behind him
into the church, two silver candlesticks being carried before him. On his entry,
he gave his blessing to the congregation, and went and stood at his throne.
After the Hao-a wot] (Every breath), the Constantinopolitan descended from his
throne to kiss the images and impart his blessing to the congregation; and after
him the Antiochian : then the chief priests, two by two: afterwards the priests
and the rest of the congregation paid their devotions to the images. For in all
the country of Greece, in Moldavia and in Wallachia, there is not a single person
who does not kiss the images at this time of the early morning; and afterwards at
the end of the mass, when they have received tlie ' Avrftagct (the sanctified bread),
even to the women and children. As in our country, they go out after the mass;
but here the}' go out also after the "Qgfyov (Matins), and return in two hours' time.
When the deacon has thrown incense at the Alleluia, he descends from the
Tabernacle and incenses the Patriarch at his throne; and then receives from him
a TLogtuvq, for the reading of the Gospel. Afterwards he incenses the doors of the
Tabernacle and the images, and goes in to take the Gospel from the hand of the
Minister : then coming out with it from the north door, he ascends the "Afi&uv
(pulpit), which is on the north side of the church. The chaplains draw out to a
great length the chaunt Eig voXXoi Irr, Aeovora (May the years of our Lord be
many); whilst the deacon descends from the " \p,£uv (pulpit), and, coming to
the Patriarch, presents him the Gospel to kiss. They repeat several times, at
the end of the Prone, "O ye Catechumens (%otrri%ovfMyoh admonished}, go out.'"
In the middle of the Prone is the ^vvsirsre; that is, when he says at the end of
the prayer for peace, " We pray to the Lord," he joins to it, " For the salvation
of his Highness," and, " For the salvation of the whole world," " For this con
secrated house," " For the Patriarch," " For the Emperor and Empress," and
TRAVELS OF MAC ARIL'S. 17
•' Help," £c. and " 2ocp/a" (Wisdom), and the rest, whilst the Minister is reading
the Evfflv. After the Proclamation, he repeats again, " For the salvation" &c.
and " For this church," " For the moderation of the weather," " For those who
are travelling by sea," and " For our salvation," and " Help," and " 2o<p/a," and
so on, whilst the Minister is finishing the Ev^v. Their retinue and humility
are very great; and their Msrcbo/as (prostrations) down to the ground are fre
quent : — I am speaking of the Greek Clergy who assist at mass, and particularly
of their behaviour at the moment of taking the holy mysteries. The deacon
mentions the name of the Patriarch, whilst he carries the body. At the end of
the mass the two Patriarchs distributed the 'Am'&w^a (sanctified bread), each on
his own side. At their departure from the church, the torch-bearers repeated the
same words as they had done the evening before; and the Patriarch's Janissaries
constantly preceded them, walking on to clear the way before them, with their
swords and staves. On this day there was also a banquet, from which we did
not return home till the evening. On the eve of the Feast of St. Demetrius we
assisted at vespers in the church of the Monastery, which is dedicated to St.
George.
In the morning, the Patriarch sent to our master two of the Metropolitans, and
the U^roffu'yy&Xog *, and the Chief of the Deacons, who conducted him to the
Patriarchal church ; and, after mass, he took him again to dine with him. It
may be observed, that our Christian brethren of the Greek nation, wherever they
are, all fast the Lent of St. Demetrius, beginning with the first day of the month
Teshrin the first, and abstaining entirely from (^1) fat till the day of his festival.
In like manner they fast for Saint Michael, from the first of Teshrin the second,
for the space of eight days. They have also many other Lents, besides these, for
other Saints : which, please God, we will hereafter mention.
This is the description of the Patriarchal church in Constantinople, dedicated
by name to St. George. Before it is a court-yard; and on the north side is a
succession of pent-houses, where the Writers of the Patriarch have their dwelling.
In front of the church is a large pent-house, from which you descend into it by
steps. This church is of the usual form of Catholic churches, having three com
partments, each with a cupola. It has a second door going out from the pent
house on the north side. Over this compartment the women are stationed ;
but they have an outward door into the street. The church contains three
tabernacles, and is very spacious. The chairs of the choir are in two equal rows,
o<;.^ The Protosyngelos is the chief officer of the Patriarch, through whom the busi
ness of the Patriarchate is for the most part conducted.
D
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
reaching from before the tabernacle to near the door of the church. Behind
them are other rows of seats, and also all round the church. The Patriarch's
throne is between the rows of seats on the right-hand side ; and is very lofty,
with an ascent of steps. It is all dove-tailed, and is a noble piece of workmanship.
Opposite to it is a similar throne, but inferior in height, intended for any Patriarch
Visiter, in the row on the left-hand side. As to the Elxwofruffts * (^IL^yOf), it is
very lofty; and the large images on the doors of the tabernacle are of very great
dimensions, painted at Moscow. The picture of St. George is entirely ex
ecuted by the hand of Our Lady. The candlesticks are large and magnificent.
The UoXvthiov, to which they give the name of Xo^o?, is all of yellow brass.
worked by the hammer, and made at Venice, resembling that which is in the
Church of the Holy Ptesurrection. The tabernacles are spacious ; and behind
that which is on the north side is a door admitting to the Book Treasury, whence
you go out behind the church, into a court that opens into the street. This is
so contrived, in order that when the priests are suddenly visited by any natural
want, they may satisfy it, without going cut in face of the people. On the arch
of the south tabernacle are painted the figures of Abraham and Melchisedec.
The beard of the latter is white, and longer than the beard of Abraham. His
head is bound with a red fillet, like Daniel the Prophet's, and his hair hangs
loose. He is clothed in a vest resembling the Qtt.uviw (sacerdotal robe) of
St. Gregory, bishop of Armenia, with an Armenian (^^Jiis) dress, and a brocade
G>i') collar. He carries in his hands a kind of white boat, filled with something
red, like wine ; and having upon it the figure of three white round loaves, with
two red crosses on the top. These are the bread and wine which he offered to
the Lord. Over is written 'O Mxuios MiXyja-tdcx (The righteous Melchizedek).
Above the altar, or place of sacrifice, are two portraits ; the Patriarch of Alex
andria, and the Messiah standing before him in the shape of a young man, under
a cupola suported by two pillars. His garment is rent ; and the Patriarch says
to him, "Lord, who rent thy garment?" The answer issuing from the mouth
of our Lord is : " Indeed Arius, who fell upon me. Is the mouth of Hell lower?"
than what he fell. Where the officiating priest washes his hands is a small
marble pitcher C^) with a handle (ajJjo-), which empties into another standing
upon a pillar under it. As to the two portraits above mentioned, there is an
* E/x<oi/o<n-«<rK;.] The Iconostasis is a stand placed near the entrance of the clmrcli, for the reception
of the picture of the Saint of the festival or day. The people, on entering the church, prostrate them
selves before this picture, and kiss it ; and light each a small wax taper before it, which they purchase.
for the purpose, at the door of the church.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 19
imitation of them in all the churches of Constantinople and its territory, as there
is also of the Lavacrum just described. The "ApEuv, or pulpit, is on the north
side, as we mentioned before ; is very high ; and looks over the throne, occupied,
on the present occasion by the Patriarch of Antioch.
In one corner of this church, on the right-hand side as you enter, is a reposi
tory, with a grating of iron wire; containing the bodies of Saints, which we
requested permission to kneel down to and to kiss. They therefore took us
inside ; and the Archons came, bringing with them the keys of the bolts. First
they broke the seals, and then opened the several chests, which are three ; the
first containing the body of Saint Theophanu, the Empress, preserved entire, as
she was in her clothes, with her (jLoyJS probably <u*?lj) spinning yarn at her feet.
We took a blessing from her, and then from the body of Saint Ishmonita, mother
of the Seven Macabites*. She is an old woman, remaining entire, with her
clothes upon her, buttoned in the manner of the Franks. In the third chest is
Saint Euphemia, the Martyr, entire, except that the head is wanting. In a
corner of this repository is an iron cage, within which is seen one half of the
pillar to which they tied our Lord the Messiah, when they scourged him. Its
colour inclines to green. Above it is a lamp, which burns night and day. Whilst
we were taking a blessing from it, one of the persons present informed us that
the other half of it is at Home, and that he had paid his devotions to it. They
now replaced the seals upon the relicmes, and we went out. It is to be observed,
that the whole of the treasure belonging to the Patriarchal Church is in the
hands of its Vakeels or Attorneys, and not entrusted to the Patriarch. It is they,
also, who pay all the pensions and other expenses attending the Patriarch's
Court.
The Palace and Divan of the Patriarch are built upon an eminence outside
the church inclosure; and command a view of Galata, of Scutari, of the Sea of
Marmora, &c. At the upper part is a secret door, giving admission to the
Monastery of the Resurrection : for between the Patriarch's palace and this
monastery is the city gate from the inner wall ; and whereas it is the custom,
upon shutting up the gates of Constantinople in the evening, to take the keys to
the Aga of the Janissaries, and, on account of the distance, not to open them
again till morning, we occasionally came and knocked at this private gate, and,
through it, went down into the church.
" Mother of (he Seven Macabites "~\ I suppose this to bo the mother of the seven Jews tortured
and put to death by Antioclms, as related in the 7th chapter of the Second Book of Maccabees.
2Q TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The station of the Chiefs of the Priesthood (Archbishops) within the church
is from the left-hand of the Patriarch to the church door. On his other hand
are stationed the KXjj£0£ (Clergy), and the singers or chaplains, as far as very
near the door of the Tabernacle ; so that the northern side of the church is left
entirely to the common priests and the deacons. There is, of course, upon the
southern door of the Tabernacle, the figure of the Cherubim with the flaming
sword.
SECT. V.
CONSTANTINOPLE.— CONDOSCALE.
ON the eve of the Sunday of the Rich and Helper (^Ullj ^^O* tne Patriarch of
Constantinople sent to take our master to church, to evening prayer. During
the day, he had sent him a "SvarrKnxov, with his own signature and that of the
chief clergy; bearing permission for him to go and perform mass on the
morrow in the church of St. John the Baptist, in Kum Kapi, according to the
custom of all the Patriarchs : and he had issued orders to the clergy of the other
churches in that quarter to forego the performance of their own masses, and to
assemble all together in the aforesaid church, to assist at the mass of our Lord
the Patriarch. They came, in consequence, to visit us immediately, and invited
the Patriarch overnight to the ceremony of the morrow ; which was the aforesaid
Sunday, when we embarked in a boat, and, going round the Emperor's Seraglio,
passed behind it. Here they shewed us the Gate of Romanus, mentioned in the
2vvafaf/a, which is now closed up. Near it is an 'Ay/ao^a (Holy Well),
resorted to by the Christians on the day of the Divine Manifestation (^is^l).
This side of the city walls was built by the Emperor Theophilus, and it is still
inscribed with his name, in large Greek characters, thus :
QsofyXog Iv "X.gt<rrw vrurrog @curihev$ 'Papccituv net,} avroxgarag.
Near Kum Kapi, among the towers on the beach, they shewed us the
Tower of the Emperor Leon (Ae'w, Leo) the Wise, wherein was the wonderful
mirror which was broken by Michael the son of Theophilus. Close to it is an
ancient Mosque or Cathedral (^U), which they say was formerly a Christian
church, and the continual abode of St. John Chrysostom.
We pursued our way till we came to the Scala or landing-place of Kum
Kapi, where we stepped out of the boat. The name of Kum Kapi was
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 9J
anciently, in the Greek language, KovTo<rzci?s/]. All the Christians, with their
clergy, were waiting for us ; and advancing to meet our Lord the Patriarch, they
conducted him, with torches and thuribles, and every token of honour and
veneration, into the above-mentioned church, where a most solemn mass was
performed.
They are accustomed, in all these countries, at the time of the prayer "A^iov
ttrrlv, to bring to the Patriarch pieces of (t_aWy^!) biscuit, which he takes
one by one in his hand, and, making a cross with each piece over the cup and
over the paten, in the name of its offerer, he says, " Magnified be the name of
the Holy Trinity ! " This is what they call Haw/ict,, which has great value
among them ; and they carry it with them in their travels, to serve them in
place of the communion of the holy mysteries, when any danger presents itself of
drowning, or other kind of death.
After the Patriarch had distributed among them the 'Avritiuga (or Remune
rations,) they all dropped pieces of money into the plate. Then they took us to
their houses, and gave a banquet to the Patriarch ; and we slept two nights
under their roof. We went to visit the rest of their churches ; the second
of which is dedicated to Our Lady, and is all white. The third is named Saint
Kyriaki : upon its door is painted the Creation of the Heaven and the Earth,
that is, Ilao-a won (Every breath). The fourth is named after Saint Nicholas.
In all of them are new HoXusAsa, and 2u^£oXa (ej'JjlxeJ). The fifth is
also dedicated to Our Lady, and is contiguous to the church of the Armenians,
who have two churches in Kum Kapi.
On Tuesday the second of Teslirin Essani, which was the festival of Korban
Bairam, we went all in a body to the space before the gate of the Seraglio, and
saw his Highness the Sultan Mahomet, (whom God preserve !) with his attendants
and troops, at his going into Saint Sophia, and coming out. Afterwards we
went in to see Saint Sophia, and all its apartments and recesses. We ascended
to the second story; then to the third; and viewed its pillars, which are of
yellow, green, grey, and variegated stone, and of marble of various beautiful and
resplendent colours; also its marble tablets, reaching from pillar to pillar,
with marks of crosses still to be traced upon them : as they are likewise upon its
beautiful pavement, and all its stones and marbles ; upon the 'Ay/W^a or holy
fountain within it, and upon its tables of transparent marble. Its chapels and
recesses are admirably constructed ; nor is it possible for the most eloquent man
adequately to praise the beauty of its white marble, the lofty suspension of its
cupolas, the well-painted figure of Our Lord the Messiah giving his blessing at
22 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the top of the arches and tabernacles ; the multitude of crosses upon its walls
and entablatures ; the variety of figures and paintings of the festivals of Our
Lord, which are on the ceiling of the cupolas ; the diversity of colours of the
mosaic figures, gilt and painted upon it ; the number of its doors ; the size of
the brazen crosses upon them ; the multitude of its windows ; and, what am I
saying / — it is not possible for the human intellect to describe the detailed
account of its beauties.
S E C T. VI.
CONSTA NTINOPLE.—A T MA IDA X.
FROM St. Sophia we went to see the Mosque of the late Sultan Ahmed, who
was so famous for his refractoriness. Its floor is formed of unpolished marble,
as cut from the quarry. Afterwards we walked over the Esplanade, or Public-
Walk of Constantinople, which is celebrated throughout the world. It is called
the At Maidan ; that is, the Field of the Horse, or Race Ground, (iKTrodeopoc,)
and is in front of the Mosque. We viewed, erected upon a stone pedestal, the
admirable Pyramid, called the Nciu Teliclli Dash ; which is one entire piece of
stone, squared, and of a grey colour, inclining to red. On the four sides, it has
engraved certain scientific shapes or figures and likenesses of animals, which
are all philosophic words (Hieroglyphics). The Pyramid is fixed upon four
cubes of brass ; and has under it a cube of white marble, in one piece, the length
and breadth and height of which is fourteen spans on each side square ; and, on
each side, it is sculptured with personal forms, every side presenting a different
group. Its height from the base to the summit, that is, the height of the pillar
and its pedestal, is equal to that of the minarets of the Mosque of Sultan
Ahmed.
At the distance of a stone's throwr from this Pyramid is a pillar of thick
brass, twisted together in three rolls, as if it were three serpents or dragons
entwined upon each other. Upon the top are three serpents' heads, stretched
with open mouths towards the three sides of the city : the lower jaw of one of
them is broken. It is pretended, that the deceased Sultan Othman broke it
with his mace ; and also, that this pillar has been a protection, since the time of
the Emperor Constantine, against the entrance of serpents into the city, one
and all : and it is related, as an historical fact, that wiien, upon this occasion,
this single head was broken, the side of the city to which it stretched was
immediately invaded by serpents : but they do no injury.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 23
Distant another stone's throw hence, is a second Pillar (<x*^o), constructed of
stone, called also Tckdli Dash.
We went next to view the Tombs of the deceased Sultans ; that is, of the
Othmanlis, from the time they conquered Constantinople, till now ; together
with the tomb of Sultan Murad and his nineteen children, who were strangled ;
and afterwards the tomb of his mother, Kosa Cason. We made a circuit
through all these tombs. Over them are lamps of gold ; and the rich offerings
with which they are adorned surpass admiration. The officer in attendance
admits visitors for sake of the good work.
The tombs of the Sultans Mustafa and Ibrahim are in another cemetery,
near to the inclosure of Saint Sophia, on the way to the Divan. This is raised
in solid white marble, both inside and out; and is of recent structure, giving delight
to the beholder. Opposite to it is another cemetery of similar construction.
Here is the road to the Divan ; and here are stationed the Writers of Petitions
and the Exchangers of Intimacies ; that is to say, of permissions to pass for
interviews, and so forth, with their masters.
Hence we turned to visit the Asian Khanah, or House of Lions; which con
sists of an ancient church of low structure, and another with a lofty cupola
above it, wherein are still traces of the mosaic paintings, and of the portraits of
Our Lord and the Four Evangelists, remaining until now7. In the former are the
wild beasts; consisting of four lions, one from Algiers (or Africa); the others
from our country (Asia) ; and four panthers from divers countries : a jackal, a
fox, three wolves, a hyaena, a head of an ancient elephant, an antique skeleton
of a camel-panther (^ ; Girafcf), together with an ancient crocodile. There are
also traces in this lower church of the images and forms of Philosophy (Mytho
logy) still left. It was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and is exceedingly
revered. It is believed to have been the church of St. Chrysostom.
Near the Asian Khanah is the Jiba Khanah, or House of Armour; upon the
door of which is suspended an exceeding large and singular Jazma, or battle-axe.
Its companion is hung on the door of the Top Khanah. Besides this, there is a
variety of costly rarities.
-24' TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. VII.
COXSTANTINOPLE.— SERAGLIO.
THEN we came and entered the Seraglio, guarded by the Almighty in perpe
tuity. Glorified be its inhabitants! Within the court is a church, which is now
called the Silah Khanah, or Armoury, and has escaped the smallest devasta
tion ; its tabernacles and every thing within remaining as they formerly were :
but the doors are closed. We went up to the famous arch or cupola, which is
the Sublime Porte, where sit the Judges of the Army (Cadilesker) and the seven
Vizirs ; and the Emperor looks over them from a window. It is here that they
hold the Divan, or Court of Audience, for the whole world.
Between the Seraglio and Saint Sophia is a small church named after Saint John
the Baptist, which the Emperor Justinianus built before he began Saint Sophia,
and where he used to repose himself. It remains in its pristine state.
Then we went to see the third Tcketti Dash ; which is in the Taouk Bazaar,
or Bird Market, near the Walidah Baths and the Khan of the Ambassadors.
It rises so high into the air as to be painful to behold ; and, having been cracked
by fire, is swathed in hoops of iron. It is pretended, that some Jew mentioned
to a certain Sultan of the Othmanlis that the Greek Emperors had deposited
riches within it. The Sultan therefore ordered it to be set fire to, and it cracked.
Fearing it might foil in the night, they girt it with iron from top to bottom.
We were informed by the Greeks, that this is the Tekelli Dash, or Pillar, which
the Emperor Constantine the Great built ; and laid under its foundations the
twelve sculls ; and also some of the reliques of Our Lord the Messiah.
Afterwards we proceeded to view the pillar in the Avrct Bazaar, or the Wo
man Market ; which is the largest of all the pillars that have been mentioned :
and is constructed of white marble, sculptured with crosses and angels and
priests, from the summit to the base. It is hollow inside ; and the place of its
fall is the Mahall Assamatah* (IL^JI 21s*).
We asked the Greeks for the site of the Temple of the Holy Apostles ; and
they answered us, that it was within the Esld Serai, or Old Seraglio ; which is
appropriated to the women. For we saw this holy temple when we were on
the water near Galata, and from the environs of Scutari; as it is high, and re
markable for its cupolas, which are twelve in number. It is near the Soleimanieh ;
• And the place of Us fall is the Mahall Assamatah:' There is some obscurity in the text here.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 25
so it had appeared to us ; and yet, when I came and sought for it near to
that Mosque, I could not find it. The reason of this is, that the inclosure walls
of the said Seraglio are exceedingly high ; and the Temple is in the middle of it,
on the top of a hill — one of the seven hills which are within the walls of Con
stantinople : on this account, the height of the Temple is conspicuous from
Galata and Scutari, being considerably higher than the dome and cupola of Saint
Sophia ; and so we thought, when we first saw it, on our entrance into Stamboul.
Upon seeking for it anew, I obtained further information from a tailor of the
aforementioned Eski Serai — that it is therein remaining in its pristine condition,
and that the forms and images of Philosophy are also still existing on its walls;
but no one is permitted to enter the said palace at all, without a proof of
acquaintance.
We asked them again concerning the Temple XaXxo^arsa, where it was.
They answered us, that it was in the place where is now the Mosque of Sultan
Bajazet.
SECT. VIII.
CONSTANTINOPLE.— SOLEIMANIEH.
THEN we passed on to see the vast and illustrious Mosque called the
Solcimanieh, which is one of the wonders of the world, for the multitude of its
columns, yellow, green and brown, and for its immense coloured pavement ; for
its loftiness ; and for the soaring shoot of its minarets. In the court is a high
cupola of marble, with pillars of the same material, from the roof of which water
descends : for the said pillars are hollow, and the water issues from them in
beautiful artifice. It is more delicious and sweeter than the water of Aleppo.
Next, we went to see the Mosque of Sultan Mahomet, which is above the
house of the Patriarch, in the Fanar, on the top of a hill.
Afterwards, we descended from the Fanar, into a boat, and passed over to
Kliass Kcui*, upon invitation. In this village are numerous houses of Jews and
15 In the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Jews of Spain were expelled that country. Setting
out, to the amount of 800,000 persons, they turned their faces to the East, and were kindly received in
different parts of the Ottoman Empire. The principal division of them came to Constantinople ; and
were assigned this district, where they form a community of 50,000 persons. They are styled
Mosafir, or Visitor, by the Turks, as having sought an asylum among them ; and are consequently
treated with kindness and hospitality.
E
2(3 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Christians. We visited the church which is dedicated to the 'Ayia,
or Holy Friday ; and they took our Lord the Patriarch to pray over the tomb
of the deceased Pavlaki, who was Kapi Kachia of Vasili Beg of Moldavia :
for, being guilty of some treachery towards him, the Beg sent and had him put
to death. They conducted us to his Hotel, or rather to his beautiful Palace,
built over the water, upon huge piles of wood, after the practice of building the
mansions of Constantinople. It contains an astonishing number of rooms and
apartments, and a bath entirely of marble. Its gardens are a delight to the
beholder, and are furnished with canals for irrigation, all of coloured cement.
There is also a church upon the premises : all of which have a front command
ing a viewr of the sea.
From this palace we went down into a boat belonging to it, and were taken
to the further extremity of the sea, or port, of Galata, where we entered a lari><>
river of fresh wrater ; and, ascending some distance, went to see a Manufactorv,
or Kiar Khanah, of Gunpowder, similar to that which we had seen at Bor, and
very surprising, with wheels turned by the waterf. This place is called Kiagliid
Khanah.
Hence we came a\vay, by land, and mounted up to the Ok Maidan ; that is,
the Field for the shooting of the Arrow ; for in it is a pillar erected for this
purpose. It is a pleasant green spot, commanding a view over Constantinople,
which is opposite ; and here the Christians celebrate the Festival of Easter, in
mirth and gladness. They told us, on this occasion, that last year his Highness
the Sultan Mahomet, God preserve him ! came and erected his tent previously
to the Feast, and was a spectator of their festivities ; and that, in consequence of
the great diversion they caused him, he made them a present of two purses,
of a tliousand Turkish piastres each.
Then we entered the Convent of the Silah Dar, or Armour-bearer, of tin-
deceased Sultan Murad, which he built entirely new.
* 'Ay<« ll«o«<7xei/f; is, I believe, the name of a female Saint.
•f This, and the Ali Bey Sou, which unite at the bridge lower down, and fall into the head of the
harbour, are the rivulets that flow near the city, and are in summer nearly or altogether dry.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 27
S E C T. IX.
CONST A NTINO PLE. — GA LA TA .
THENCE we descended to a suburb named Casini Pas/ia, and to Galata,
and Top Khanak. Afterwards we went to Ters Kliuwth, where they build
ships. At Top Khanah, we saw guns large enough for a man to creep in ;
and others, that were each of them equal to three camel-loads. Then we
returned to look at the wonderful ships of England and of France, and came
away home. On the eve of Sunday we performed the 'Effiregivov (Vesper
Service) in the Monastery at Galata : for the Constantinopolitan had sent to
our Patriarch a 2v<rrot,nxov,\ike the former, that he should go and perform mass,
on the morrow, in the Church of the Monastery. And we went over with the
attendants in a boat to Galata, to the aforesaid church ; where they came to
meet the Patriarch, according to custom; and a high mass was celebrated,
according to the ritual of the season. After the ceremony, followed the
banquet ; and I took the opportunity to wander out alone, and visit the remain
ing churches of Galata.
The first is the Church of Our Lady ^vco^yr,, or, of the Golden Fountain.
The fountain is within the church ; and is a well of water, such as they represent
in the pictures of Our Lady sitting in a ^ ; and there flows from it water that
cures the sick. This church is magnificent ; and has a couple of large yellow
brass candlesticks. We were informed that the Patriarch Karamah made the
candlesticks of the church of Aleppo after their model. The whole is the work
of the Venetians. Here is a noble painting.
From it we went to the third Church, dedicated to the Merciful Mother
of God (Virgo Clemens), and to John the ©20X070? or Divine; containing
three large paintings (i^U^L^'l), wherein is described the Apocalypse of St.
John, with the Seven Signs. Under the building is the place where his disciples
buried him.
From this we passed on to a very large Church, which was one of the most
magnificent churches belonging to the Orthodox Religion in the Grecian
Empire, and is at present in the hands of the Frank Jesuits. It is very
ancient and lofty, and is painted all over, in mosaic, with the festivals of Our Lord,
explained in Greek characters. The belfry is high, and of ancient structure.
We then proceeded to the fourth Church, near to the former, and dedicated
to Our Lord the Messiah. In it is an 'Ay/W^a, or Holy Well.
gft TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
We came now to the fifth Church, called after Saint Demetrius. Upon the
wall, round the door, is painted ITaVa won ; that is, " Praise the Lord from the
heavens, all ye creatures, beasts and firmament, cold and snow, &c."
The sixth Church we came to is dedicated to Our Lady, and is near the
Walls. The seventh is Saint John the Baptist's, and contains an 'Ay/W^a.
The eighth is the Church of Saint Nicholas. The ninth, of Saint John Chryso-
stom. All are built of wood, and roofed over ; and are adorned with the
'SvpCohaict, and HoXu&X&og, in letters of gold, inside and out.
Then we viewed the Church of the Franks, which has been burnt ; which
equalled Saint Sophia, in height and size, and form and structure : and was
adorned, inside and out, with mosaic paintings and gildings of the Dominical
Feasts. Over the door, on the wall, is a painting, in mosaic, of the
Assumption of Our Lady. All the inscriptions are in the Frank language.
Within it, and with its materials, how many a small church might be built !
But it is ruined and deserted, and altogether in the hands of the Franks,
SECT. X.
CONST A NTINOPLE.—CONFLA GRA TION.
ON the eve of Wednesday, the tenth of Teshrin the second, there happened a
great fire in Constantinople, which lasted till the eve of Thursday, and burnt
the very heart of the city ; I mean its Markets and Bezistans (Cloth Halls) :
spreading on till it reached the District of Kum Capi, the extreme neighbour
hood of the Odoun Charshi, or Wrood Market ; and the Maidan Catir Ghilman,
or the Place of the Muleteers. There were burnt, as was computed, about
forty, I do not know whether fifty, thousand shops, fifteen thousand large and
small private houses, three hundred bakers1 ovens, a number of Hammams or
Baths, and two-and-thirty Khans or Caravansaries. The Khan Elyusra, or
Khan of Paradise, was destroyed, with every thing in it ; as was also the Khan
Piri Pasha, The Baltajis (Pioneers) and the Bostanjis (Guards of the Seraglio)
were unequal to the task of laying waste the places around, until they called out
the populace to their aid. The fire whirled about, from spot to spot, like a bird
on the wing. Cemeteries, and Fi-Sabil-Allah's, or Charitable Edifices, built of
marble, were destroyed in great numbers ; and even the tops of the minarets
were consumed. We knew where, yesterday, were market-houses and khans
and populous mansions ; and in this morning's dawn it shewed a desert land,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 20
drawing forth the tears of the beholder, and encompassed with a circle of
mourners. God protect our country from such calamity !
But instantly they called out the builders to work ; and a month's time had not
elapsed, when, behold ! every thing had returned to its place. The spot alone,
nothing else of the conflagration, remained. How should it be otherwise, in this
seat of Empire /
On this day I visited the celebrated Church of St. Nicholas, within the Agia
Capi, or Gate of St. Kuphemia, which they have made into a Mosque; and
afterwards the illustrious Church of Our Lady, above it, wherein is an ' Ayictrrpcx,,
or Holy Well, which cures diseases.
On the Feast of St. Chrysostom, I went to Top Khanah, where I hired a
boat, and passed over to Kiz Cullcsi, or the Girl's Tower, which is built on a
small rock in the middle of the sea, opposite Scutari ; and we drank of the sweet
water of the \vell there.
From this place we proceeded to Cadi Keui, that is, Chalcedonia ; and I
visited its church, which is dedicated to Our Lord the Messiah. It is a dome
with lofty cupolas, all of stone, and very ancient. Then I returned, by Scutari
and Top Khanah, to our place in the Fanar.
On the eve of Sunday preceding the Fast of the Nativity, we said the Even
ing Prayers in the Church of the Monastery. Three days before, the Clergy and
grandees of the District Kum Capi had come to our Lord the Patriarch, and,
bringing him a permission from their own Patriarch, invited him to perform
mass a second time for them in their Church of Our Lady in the Desert : and
this because they were exceedingly rejoiced that the fire we have mentioned,
as having raged on all sides, and approached very near, did not injure
them ; and believing that it w'as surely repelled from them by the merit of
his prayers. We wrent with them therefore, early on the morning of the said
Sunday, by water, in a boat. Every time we passed over the sea that wray, we
endured many terrors, when we came to the place behind the Seraglio, called
Bournou Serai, from the apparent hopelessness of our situation : for the sea is
here very terrific, by reason of the black flood of water from the Boghaz, or
Bosphorus, into the White Sea. And, indeed, what a number of even large ships
have foundered here !
When we arrived at their quarters, they met us in great procession, and a
most solemn mass was performed. We staid with them till Wednesday, the
nineteenth of Teshrin the second, when we returned to our place.
We asked concerning the Church of the Motxagurrq, that is, of the Mother of
30 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
God, the Trine, the Good ; whereof an account is given in the Grecian History,
which we have translated into Arabic — that they made it into a Patriarchal Pa
lace, and afterwards into a Temple of the Holy Apostles. It is upon a hill,
which is above the Fanar and the Patriarch's, and about midway between this
district and the Mosque of Sultan Mahomet. It is now a handsome mosque,
containing within it many ancient wells.
We had been informed by several persons, that behind the Odoun Charshi, or
Wood Market, near the back of the Walidah Khan, was a small mosque, that
had anciently been a church, with a high square cupola surmounted with a cross,
which is sometimes seen, and at other times hidden from the Odoun Charshi.
I did not cease, therefore, till I had found it out, and went to it. The church is
still in its pristine state; and I saw the cross. There was with me a company of
persons : and we returned much gratified.
SEC T. XI.
CONSTANTINOPLE.— MA HALL A SSAMA TAH.
Ox Thursday, the Priests and Archons of Mahall Assamatalt came to in
vite our Lord the Patriarch, by permission of the Constantinopolitan, and to
request him that he would go and perform mass in their district. We therefore-
accompanied them,, in a boat, about sixteen miles over water : for the circuit of
the walls of Constantinople is said to be twelve miles*. Mahall Assamatah is a
neck of land stretching out into the sea, so that three-fourths of it are insular.
The remaining fourth is contiguous to the gate of Adrianople, behind the Fanar.
The whole of this territory is covered with vineyards and gardens, and grows a
considerable number of pistachio-trees. The inhabitants met us in procession;
and we arrived at their place at sun-set, on the eve of the first Sunday of tin-
Fast of the Nativity. Early in the morning we celebrated mass in the Church
of the Emperor Constantine the Great ; which is very ancient and venerable,
* " The City of Constantinople is built on a triangular promontory, projecting into the Sea of
.Marmora : two sides are washed by the sea ; and the third is that which connects the triangle with
the main land, and may be called its base. These sides are well fortified with walls ; which still
remain, though in several places so dilapidated as to be incapable of any defence, without great repa
ration. The whole circuit is estimated at more than twelve miles ; the side washed by the harbour,
three ; that washed by the Sea of Marmora, more than four ; and the base nearly five, extending from
.sea to sea, and terminating in the Seven Towers." — DR. WALSH.
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US. 31
lofty and magnificent, built with stone,, and adorned with cupolas. It contains
pictures of Our Lord the Messiah, of Our Lady, of St. Nicholas, and of St.
John the Baptist; all ancient and magnificently large, and supposed to he of the
time of the Emperor Constantine. An immense congregation assisted at the
mass, which was followed by a consecration of Deacons. We had the blessing
to kiss the right-hand of the Emperor Constantine. It is a bone, as yellow as
gold.
There is nothing I long for in the churches of Constantinople, and the sur
rounding country, but the singing of the little boys, and their chaunting "Ayiog
o Qsog at the Epistles, and Alleluia at the Gospel, and Kvgis lx^<rov during the
whole of the Prone ; and the beauty of their sweet modulation.
The name of this Mahall Assamatah, in Greek, was anciently Hao-o^ar/a. In
Turkish it is called Mahalleh Caraman ; for when the Sultan Mahomet became
master of the city, he sent for inhabitants from Caramania, and, settling them
here, gave them the church, and the place their name. In this Pasomatia it
was that happened the procession of angels, at the time the heresies appeared,
saying : " Blessed is he that is on our side !" and the young man was rapt up
into the air, and came down, repeating, " Blessed be he who dieth not !" accord
ing as he had heard the angels praising God.
After the mass and banquet, we went to visit the remaining Churches of
Samatah. The second is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and is very handsome.
The third is the Church of Our Lady : the fourth, of St. George : this last, is
ancient, and has cupolas of stone, and an antique pavement. Within it is a
picture of St. George, painted, in mosaic, upon the wall, and gilt ; very ancient,
and of surprising art ; and an 'Ay/W^a : the latter is sure to be found in
every church in Constantinople. We took a blessing from the body of St.
Anastasia, who rescues from enchantment. Of all the churches in Constanti
nople, including also the Patriarchal Church, there is not one so ancient
as the times of the Christian Emperors, save this in the Mahalleh Caraman.
SECT. XII.
CONST A NTTNOPLE.— SE FEN TOWER 8.
ON Monday, the twenty-third of Teshrin the second, we rose to leave them
at break of day ; and, going out with them, came to Yedi Kulleh, or the
Seven Towers. In all the walls of Constantinople and its forts, there is not a
handsomer nor stronger building than these Towers, and the walls that inclose
32 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
them, which are triple, one within the other. Then we went out by the 7V>/;
Capi, or Canon-gate, to the Burial-ground of the Christians, where is an
'Ay/Wpz, or Holy Well, called, in the *2vva.%aeia (Martyrology), Z<yor0;eo/njy7),
that is, the Fountain of Life, appropriated to the Mother of God, whose
festival is kept on the Friday of the Aiazivrt<ripov. It is now called the Holy
Fountain of the Kalikli, or of the Church of Fishes*. We went down the steps
to it, and drank of its hlessed water, which cures diseases. Here the Christians
keep the Monday of the Resurrection, with eating and drinking, and every
kind of mirth. Then we passed through the Gate of Adrianople, and came
to our lodgings in the Fanar. For myself, I went to see the Fountain of
Velashirnas, which is now neglected and almost forgotten, situated in the
district of Palati, opposite to Khass Keui, and higher up than the Fanar. I
entered into an inclosed building inhabited by a tribe of Gipsies ; which was
the church, but few signs of which are apparent ; and found the Well within,
issuing from a cave, which was anciently in the treasury of the Tabernacle.
Coming out thence, I visited the magnificent large Church of St. Demetrius,
situated in the aforesaid district ; and, afterwards, the Church of Our Lady.
We took a blessing from her image, which was pierced with a spear ; and
the blood flows from it.
On the eve of Sunday, the second of the Fast of the Nativity, we attended
the 'Ay^uTc/a (Vigils), and the mass next morning, in the Church of the
Patriarch of Constantinople : for our Patriarch wished to take leave of him,
to proceed on his travels. After mass, the Constantinopolitan took him up to
his palace ; and they bade adieu to each other with tears ; and each prayed
over the head of the other : and the Constantinopolitan gave to our Patriarch
large and handsome letters to the Sovereigns f and his own subordinates.
" At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the walls, is Balukli, or the Church of Fishes.
The church is so called from a legend that has rendered it very celebrated among the Greeks. There
stood on this place a small Monastery of Greek Caloyers, when Mahomet laid siege to Constantinople ;
who, it seems, were not molested by his army. On the day of the decisive attack, a Monk was
frying some fish, when news was suddenly brought to the convent, that the Turks had entered the
town, through the breach in the walls. ' I would as soon believe/ said he, ' that these fried fish
would spring from the pan, and become again alive.' To reprove the incredulous Monk, the fish did
spring from the pan into a vessel of water which stood near, and swam about as if they never had been
taken out of it. In commemoration of this miracle, a church was erected over the spot, containing a
reservoir of water, into which the fish, which still continued alive, were placed. The twenty-ninth of
April was appointed, in the Greek Calendar, as a festival to commemorate the circumstance ; and a
vast concourse of people used to assemble here on every anniversary-day, to see the miraculous and
everlasting fishes swim about the reservoir." — DR. WALSH.
t " To the Sovereigns and his oivn subordinates."] The Princes of Wallachia and Moldavia are
meant by the first, and the Metropolitans of the different Dioceses by the latter.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 33
SECT. XIII.
CONSTANTINOPLE.— BOSPHORUS.
ON Monday, the twenty-ninth of Teshrin the second, we left Constantinople
on board a caik ; and came to Ngo^^/, or Yeni Keui, to hire a vessel, and
proceed, by the Black Sea, to Moldavia : for the voyage by land to Adrianople
was difficult for us, for two reasons : one was, that it would require for expenses
and hire of carriages more than five hundred piastres ; the other arose from the
cold, and abundance of snow and rain. This Boghaz, or throat, of the Black
Sea was opened in ancient times, by Alexander ; and the passage along it is
very difficult. From Galata to Neochori, both right and left, are farms and
houses, and palaces and seraglios belonging to the Emperor ; and gardens and
vineyards, walks and baths, and so forth. We alighted at Neochori, at the
house of Dadyan Rai's, surnamed Kalokari, and Theodori ; and his son is called
Yazgaki. May God perpetuate their existence, and prolong their lives ! for
their generosity and kind actions to us, and to strangers in general, cannot be
expressed by mortal tongue.
On Sunday, the third of the Fast of the Nativity, which was the fifth of the
month Canon the first, fell the celebration of the Feast of St. Saba ; and our
Lord the Patriarch performed mass in the Church of St. George and St. Saba,
for the aforesaid village ; and again, on the Monday, he performed a second
mass in the Church of St. Nicholas, it being the day of his festival.
In the afternoon of Monday, after the fourth Sunday in Advent, our Lord the
Patriarch performed Funeral Service at Vigils, according to our Ritual, for the
deceased Mira, wife of Hajji Abdallah, son of the Canon Mansor, in presence
of her children, in the Church of Our Lady ; and said mass for her on the morn
ing of Tuesday the fourteenth of Canon the first. They made a breakfast
for her, of boiled meat, coloured with wine and bread, according to their custom.
Afterwards, we embarked our luggage on board the ship, upon the rising of a
favourable wind, called Noro?, or the South Wind, which the vessels bound for
the port of Galata, in the Black Sea, had been waiting for : and in the afternoon
of the afore-mentioned Tuesday, they sailed with us in two boats, to take us to
the ship, which was anchored in a place named Cara Dash, in Turkish ; and in
Arabic, Sakhr Alaswad, or the Black Rock ; near to the entrance of the Black
Sea, and the mouth of the Bosphorus, above the second of the forts which the
Turks have erected in this channel : for before you come to Neochori, you
F
g.^ TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
see, on your right and left, two large forts. Here again are two other forts :
and above them, on the top of the hill, are two ancient castles, of consi
derable size, and now in ruins, which Alexander is said to have built. Higher
up is a convent, dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady, and called, in Greek,
Movao-rrigt rov MavgofAaXov, or Convent of the Black Rock, which I went to visit.
It is upon the top of the hill, is inhabited by forty Monks, and contains a large
and ancient church; outside of which is a holy well, with a copious spring of
water, very sweet, and a cure for the sick. Over it, upon the wall, is a picture
of Our Lady Panzanasa, which works miracles, and is famous for the cure of
diseases. Inside the church is another 'AyiotffXM.
We had now mounted on board the ship. The sky was perfectly serene ; the
stars glittered ; and the captain had determined to set sail at midnight : when, of
a sudden, there arose a violent wind, and a dreadful storm came on, with a heavy
fall of snow, which lasted from that night till the next. In this time four ships,
which had ventured out of the Bosphorus, were wrecked ; and it was by the
guidance of the Almighty, and dextrous manoeuvres,, that we returned back
with our vessel, from the place where it was, to the village called Terapia* , above
Yeni Keui, where we anchored. Here we found many ships at anchor; and
alighted in a house belonging to the Christians, who have one hundred and
twenty houses here, and have not a single Turk among them : for in the
village is a church dedicated to Saint George, who is a present observer in his
miracles ; and whenever any one of them departs from his faith, he destroys him.
This is the reason no infidel dwells among them.
On Friday, the seventeenth of Canon the first, our Lord the Patriarch said
mass in the above-mentioned church of Terapia, and prepared (JU) Mvgov,
or Ointment, though it was excessively cold, and there was a severe frost. Also,
on the eve of Sunday of the Relation, we assisted at Vigils there, and he per
formed mass the next day, and made the holy oil. We read four Gospels,
according to our custom, in Persian, Turkish, Arabic, and Greek; and there was
a multitude of persons present, from the ships at anchor.
On the eve of Friday, and Ha^a^c^ (Vigil) of the Feast of the Nativity,
Kyr Pa'isius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, sent to the Patriarch of Antioch,
" " The beautiful village of Therapia, on the Bosphorus, was no less distinguished for its healthy
situation, as its name implies, than for the manners of its inhabitants. They were entirely Greeks;
and the gay, festive, cheerful habits of the people, enlivened by music, dancing, and social intercourse,
formed the strongest contrast with the dull and repulsive aspect of every other village in the vicinity.'
Du. WALSH'S Narrative.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 35
and invited him by address, in a ^,v<rrnn»ov from him, and for the most part from
the heads of the Clergy — for they loved our Lord the Patriarch with great affec
tion, and had little observance for their own Patriarchs, or for each other — that
they, the two Patriarchs, might perform the mass together. For they said :
" Fortunately for us, the Antiochian has been delayed, till he perform mass
amongst us on the Feast of the Nativity, and we receive on that day the sacred
mysteries from his hands."
SECT. XIV.
CONSTANTINOPLE.— FA NAR.
OUR Lord the Patriarch therefore departed in a boat, in company of the
priests who had been sent to him; and we arrived at the Constantinopolitan's on
the Friday morning.
We alighted in the apartments of Cyrillus the Alexandrian, afterwards Pa
triarch of Constantinople; which are of singular beauty, and were built by him
for his own use, and adorned with a variety of marble, and (^yliuju) coloured tiles,
and crystal. They are, at the highest part of the buildings, comprised in the Pa
triarchal palace. The Patriarch is not in the habit of assisting at the Hours during
the night of the Hagapovri : they defer them till break of day ; and, at the first
dawn of twilight, the two Patriarchs went down together to the church in their
Ma^yas, and with their crosiers in their hands. Immediately the choristers
began to chaunt the Hours and the Prophecies &c. After the Patriarchs had
distributed the 'Avr/^a, they left the church : and having given their benedic
tion to the assistants, while the bearer of the silver-candlestick cried out the
UoXv^oviov, or Long Life, to each, they ascended to the Divan, the Janissaries
going before them with their staves ; and sat upon two thrones, in their robes,
surrounded by the Metropolitans, Priests, and Archons. Upon the table were
placed two crystal cups of wine and spirits, and twelve dishes of Indian ware,
heaped with meats, according to the number of the Apostles. The first that drank
was the Constantinopolitan, whilst the singer chaunted for him the UoXv^ov(ov.
Then he said a prayer for the Metropolitans and the rest of the assistants, and
wished them a health to each in his place. Afterwards the Antiochian did in like
manner ; and the heads of the Clergy, &c. Then the two Patriarchs distributed
biscuit among the assembly ; and we ascended to the banquet, in a room above
the Divan, wThich has many windows looking over the sea, and commanding a
36 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
magnificent prospect. Each Patriarch, during the repast, sat upon a separate
chair close to each other, and the Metropolitans were placed on their ri^ht and
left. Upon rising from table, we went to repose. When the clock of the palace
struck the tenth division of the night, the Constantinopolitan came himself to
our Patriarch, and they went down together to the church &c.
After a continual succession, for three days, of splendid ceremonies in the
church, and solemn banquets in the Divan, such as I have here minutely
described them *, on Tuesday following the Feast of the Nativity our Lord the
* As a specimen of the description of one of these ceremonies, a part of the Arabic Text is here given.
1 .*$ . Ltwj'jUl Jx .s-^ Juk
lil
&_L«k». -jQaJ
&y!)] ^^j J'tiaj^l *j Juk
l ^^J i[;_5^«X*J] Mffr*]^ J
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 37
Patriarch took leave of the Constantinopolitan, who accompanied him to the
church, where he said his parting prayer. Then he went with him to the
outside of the court, and sent his Metropolitans before him, and the priests and
deacons to hold his train; and Capijis, with staves, to precede him; till they con
ducted him on board a caik, where they bade him farewell a second time, and
returned.
For our parts, we proceeded to Yeni Keui ; where we staid till Friday morning,
the last day of Canon the first, when we went to Terapia, to be near our ship ;
and in the evening attended Vespers. On the morning of Saturday, agreeing
with the Feast of the Circumcision, and the first of Canon the second, we
celebrated mass in the church ; and, in the afternoon, the Vespers of the eve of
Sunday preceding the Immersion. After dark there came, in a boat, to our Lord
the Patriarch, the Protosyngelos of the Constantinopolitan, bearing a venerable
Systatikon from him and from the Chiefs of the Clergy, wherein many encon-
miums wrere lavished upon him ; and he was told, that the Almighty had
detained him, that he might do them the honour of a third visit to them, and
be present at their Synod. There happened to be with us Kyr Daoud, Metro
politan of Ghadisha ; who was raised to that See on the day we first entered
Constantinople, and was now intent upon the voyage to his Bishopric, but
detained, like ourselves, by contrary winds.
SECT. XV.
CONST A NTINOPLE.—EXCOMMUNICA TION.
WE went therefore together, on the morning of the said Sunday, to the
Patriarchal palace ; where we found them all waiting for us, and delaying the
mass on our account. They arose to meet our Lord ; and conducted him, with
his mandya, and crosier, and tapers, to the church, where he stood before his
throne. The Constantinopolitan also was present. As soon as the prayers
were over, the Didascalos Serigos, Curate of the Church of X^<ro^7^ in
Galata, the learned man of his times, and the pre-eminent of his contemporaries,
the champion of the True Faith, and defender of the Orthodox Religion,
ascended the pulpit, and preached a great deal, and wept a little. " What is
this agitation ? what is this commotion ? what is this disorder in the Church of
God?" as the Chrysostom preached on his return from dispelling the adver
saries of the Christian Church, comparing it to a ship in the midst of the sea,
vj8 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
with enemies attacking it on all sides. " And we, its children, within it, are going
about to sink it also ! " In this style and similitude he prolonged his discourse
much,, and then descended. Hereupon the Oonstantinopolitan opened his
mouth, and, standing before his throne, preached a sermon to this effect : That,
after the murder of the Patriarch Parthenius, Kyr Euanicius was appointed to
succeed him, and enjoyed the Patriarchal dignity for some time. Then came
Cyrillus, the Hispanus, or the Kosa, Metropolitan of Terlov*, and despoiled him.
And when he presented himself at the Patriarchal palace, not a single person
stood before him, neither bishop, priest, nor layman ; for every body hated him.
There he remained three days ; and having nothing to give to the Vizir and the
others, as he had promised them, he was deposed by them with great contempt;
and they set up Athanasius, commonly called Patalaron, in his place. — This man
was formerly Metropolitan of Thessaloniki ; then he became Patriarch, after the
deposition of Cyrillus the Alexandrian, in the time of Sultan Murad. Afterwards
lie was deposed, and went over to Vasili Beg of Moldavia, who gave him a
church and convent in Ghass, together with all their feoffs ; likewise the pro
perty and inhabitants of the towns called Hra'ilow and Ismail, with their
revenues ; as many as six thousand houses. There he remained until lately,
when lie came to Constantinople, without the permission of the Beg; and again
became Patriarch, as we have before said, in opposition to Cyrillus the Kosa.
Hut, not having with him what was worth the favour of the Governors, he stood
his ground only fifteen days, and they deposed him. He fled therefore hack
again to Moldavia, Then the Bishops and all the Clergy, by their own will and
choice, raised Kyr Pa'isius, Metropolitan of Larissa, to the Patriarchate, after
having made him sell his See of Larissa and its revenues for twelve thousand
piastres or purses, to the person who took it from him. This was our friend ; in
whose time we came to Constantinople ; a reverend, attentive, and polite man,
beloved by great and small, and of placid disposition and ingenuous mind. As
for Signer Cyrillus, the Hispanus, he was staying in the house of a great man,
who protected him. So, also, was the deposed Euanicius staying in the house
of another, in Galata. I, the poor historian, went to see him ; where he was
living in concealment, with a white turban on his head.
Now, therefore, the Chief Priests and the Clergy held a Synod, and promoted
against him anathema and malediction, for the many foul acts of which he had
been guilty, whereof libels were lodged in the chancel of the Patriarchate ; and
' •• Tcrfor," perhaps Tcrnom.
TRAVELS OF MVCARIUS. 39
which, at this juncture, the Proto-actuarius, or Chief of the Scribes, ascended the
pulpit and read, over the heads of the assembly, at the conclusion of the
Patriarch's discourse. The libels were to this effect : That the aforesaid
Cyrillus had formerly raised a schism against the Metropolitan of Carnathia,
and encompassed his death, so as to usurp his See, firstly ; and Secondly, That
he again usurped, or violently took possession of, the See of Philippopoli, the
Chief Priest or head of that Diocese being still alive, without the permission o$'
the Patriarch of that period, but by the power of the Governors. Thirdly, That
he took the See of Chalcedonia, in like manner, by the power of the Civil
Authorities. Fourthly, That he became Metropolitan of Tirnov by the same
means. And, Fifthly, That he came and made himself Patriarch, being the
person who caused the murder of Cyrillus the Alexandrian*, in the time of Sultan
Murad. — For this cause they promoted his anathema and excommunication ; the
Holy Church not approving him. For it is the custom with the Chief Priests of
Constantinople, that any of them may become Metropolitan of a Diocese the
first time ; and then the second time of another See, but no more : though
latterly it has happened, that he takes a third See. When he is deposed, he
remains the portion of decadency (is superannuated), with the title of Tlguroq
ruv'lse&tuv/Agfcisgevg, or Chief Priest, without the power to take another See, by
their new regulations : it being similar, in their opinion, to matrimony. From
this condition it may happen that he is raised to the Patriarchate : but should
he take a fourth See, he places himself in the predicament of a person who has
taken a fourth wife, and is anathematized and excommunicated.
After the Reader had come down from the pulpit, the Constantinopolitan
pronounced an anathema against him (Cyrillus), from a paper, which he read,
saying : " I became not Patriarch by the power of wealth, or of Governors ; but
by the will of all of you. This wretch is intriguing against us, and injuring us :
let, therefore, every one who supports him be anathema."
Then they asked our Lord the Patriarch of Antioch to anathematize him in
like manner : and he made a discourse in Arabic, which an interpreter explained,
* " Cyrillus the Alexandrian" Avell known in Europe under the name of Cyril Lucaris. lie
wished to reform the Greek Church, and set forth a Confession of Faith very nearly agreeing with
the Protestant doctrines. See Dr. Thomas Smith's " Narratio de Vita, Studiis, Gestis, et Martyrio
Cyrilli Lucarii." Under his patronage, the New Testament was first translated into Modern Greek,
by Maximus Calliopolites ; to the first Edition of which work Cyril Lucaris prefixed a Preface and
recommendation. Through the intrigues of his enemies (among the chief of whom was the Cyril
here mentioned as being excommunicated, commonly known in Europe by the name of Cyrillus
Berrhseensis,) he was put to death by the Turks, June 27th, 1038.
K) TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
for the space of an hour ; and pronounced anathema against him, and all who
assisted him, being robed in his 'E^r^a^'A/ov and his '£lpo(pogiov. Then I gave
the paper to the Metropolitans present ; who read it, and pronounced the
anathema, one by one, all around, in their 'Esnr^a^A/a and 'n/x,o<po£/a. They
were twelve in number. When they had finished, they wrote the minutes of
this second meeting in the Syngrapha of the Patriarch, which he signed and
sealed, as did all the above-mentioned Chief Priests ; and they rose to the banquet.
We staid in the palace till the morning of Wednesday, the Huoapovr), or
Vigil, of the Immersion ; when the two Patriarchs descended to the church at
the dawn of twilight, and the chaunters began the prayers &c. Afterwards they
went forth to the Divan, and performed a ceremony similar to that of Christmas
Eve ; with draughts of wine and healths &c. After the stroke of ten at night,
they again descended to the church, and went through the Ritual of the Im
mersion. Then they went to table till noon, and took leave of each other a
third time : and the Constantinopolitan sent to attend our Lord, Capijis, and
Deacons, and Bishops, to the edge of the water, where they bade us farewell, and
returned. We proceeded in our boat ; and, passing by Ycni Keui, came to
Terapia, in great haste, for the south wind wras blowing very favourably ; and
we assisted at mass there on Friday, the second day of the Immersion.
SECT. XVI.
HLACK SEA,
AT noon the ship sailed with us ; and we came with the other vessels and
anchored near the Oavc^/, or Light-House, which is a noted place. For here
Alexander dug the opening for the Black Sea to enter the White ; and cut
through a mountain, to the astonishment of the human intellect. We went out
in the launch ( JjJu>) ; and climbed to the top of the hill, where is the pillar
which Alexander set up, of beautiful white marble. Upon it is written an
ancient inscription, in Greek, of Yenika (*£uu!l), which no one is able to read.
The ascent to the top of it is extremely difficult. After we had descended, we
went up to the village of the Fanar, which is near to it, and looked at the
ancient and venerable tower there since the time of Alexander. Around its
head are three lights ; the largest towards the north, which they burn at night,
made of pitch, tar, and oil, &c. for the purpose of directing the ships to it :
for the sea, God help us ! here is very difficult ; and its name is an evidence
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 41
thereof. The place, with its village, is named Fanar, from this tower ; and its
inhabitants are Christians, who have a church dedicated to St. George, where we
recited the Ninth Hour (Nones) and Vespers.
In the evening, our ship set sail with us; and we proceeded with a most-
favourable south wind. Afterwards it increased to a heavy gale, so that we
wrere near being sunk : but, by the guidance of the Almighty, at noon, on the
Sunday after the Immersion, wre put into a port, called .Limania Costatira in
Greek, and in Turkish Costanja; and examining our luggage, w^e perceived that
it could with safety be rowred ashore. We therefore landed here ; though we
had before intended to navigate three hundred miles further on, to the river
Danube, and disembark in Moldavia. The whole of the distance we had come,
from Constantinople hither, was more than three hundred miles.
We staid here a couple of days, to repose from our fright and terror at the
rolling and tossing of the huge waves ; which even swelled into our vessel,
and now sunk to vallies, nowr rose to mountains. It is attested, that the circum
ference of this Black Sea is eight thousand miles ; so that, from wrhere vessels
enter the river Danube, you have still to cross it about five hundred miles- — about
the distance from Constantinople to the same place, or more. But the naviga
tion upon it is exceedingly difficult ; all windings and turnings ; and frequently
there is very little depth of water ; and it is moreover infested by numerous
pirates. With all this, the wind was for us ; but how, God forbid ! would it
have been, had the wind been against us ? They shewed us, near the port, about
one hundred and twenty w recked vessels ; which were sunk, with all their crews
and cargoes, in the night that the storm swept upon us off Yeuzbouroun, before
the approaching Festival of St. Demetrius. For the description of this sea, from
one end to the other, is, that it is in a vale, and its shores are high mountains.
Its waves, therefore, are not ground small by continual agitation, but remain still
within it ; so that we could see the shores on either side : they require, conse
quently, but a little breeze to raise them. It is not like the White Sea (Mediter
ranean), wide and spacious, with shores that tread the plain, and are broken
by its dashing weaves.
On our right-hand was Trebizond, and Sinope, and Castamon, and the Bay of
Mingrelia, which is the country of the Georgians. Before our face were the
countries Kafa, Nazar, and Khan. On our left were Romelia, Silistria, and
Barja, on which we had now landed, whereof all the inhabitants are Moslem
Tartars. For the Sultan Mahomet, when he conquered this province, removed
the Christians from it, and peopled it with these Tartars, a race detested by the
G
1-2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Nazarites. Most of them are from Caramania and from our country. This he-
did to fortify the hanks of the Danube against their enemies the Christians ; as it is
a. frontier province, and the boundary of Romelia, which is opposite the Danube,
and of Moldavia and Wallachia. All their habitations are upon the banks of the
Danube,, and are built of wood and reeds.
We staid two days in the above-mentioned port ; and hired five wagons; and
ten camels, all with bunches. For, in this country, all the camels are so, and go
without saddles both summer and winter. We hired also a carossa, or carriage,
with a horse for our Lord the Patriarch. The hire of each vehicle, as far ;is the
river Danube, was four hundred Turkish piastres.
SECT. XI.
BULGARIA.
WE left Costanja (Chiustenza) on the morning of Wednesday the twelfth of
Canon the second; and passed through a low flat country, in which you see no
stones ; and at night slept on the wagons, near some village, or in the open
fields ; until Saturday morning, when we arrived at a small town of Bulgarian
Christians, called Iglitsa, in the middle of the river Danube. There is a road to
it by land, and it is under the Mahometan Government ; but we saw crosses
erected in it, by the sides of the roads and upon their tombs. There is a church
in the town, and the hogs feed at large in the streets*.
From this place we came to a town called Majina {Matching upon the bank
of the Danube, containing four hundred and twenty houses of Bulgarian Chris
tians. It is the last under the Mahometan Government, and is in the Pashalik
of Silistria. It has Turkish Commissioners, and a Cadi. We staid there the
Sunday of the Canaanite. On Monday morning, we hired a boat ; and having
embarked, rowed down the stream of the Danube. During the last week its ice
had thawed, after they had been passing over it with carts, and diverting them
selves with horse-races upon it.
^ Dr. Walsh has the following observations upon the first village of Bulgaria that he saw on his
route. " It was the first I had seen by day-light ; and its appearance at once struck me that I had
got into a Christian country. In the green, before the houses, was a large herd of swine, the first
I had seen since my arrival in Turkey ; as a pig is one of the animals which the Turks, like the Jews,
hold in abomination ; and they not only strictly prohibit its use, but its appearance in the streets or lands.
Wild-boars abound in the woods near the Black Sea, within a short distance of Constantinople, and
their flesh is excellent ; but it is a luxury difficult to procure, from this prohibition, by the Franks,
who highly esteem it." — DR. WALSH'S Journey from Constantinople to England.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 43
O O K II.
SECT. I.
MOLD A VIA .—GALA TS.
IT was afternoon before we arrived at Galatsa, or Galas*, the first town in the
Government of Moldavia. The Danube is an exceedingly large and deep river ;
and so broad,, that in some places the banks are not seen from one side to the
other, and are further apart than an arrow can be shot, or a sound heard. Be
tween Matchin and Galats, on the left hand, is the Mahometan town and fortress,
called Brailov, which was formerly in the Government of Wallachia, and was
afterwards given up to the Moslems. It is the boundary of the Pashalik of
Silistria on that side.
We landed at Galats on the afternoon of Monday, the seventeenth of Canon
the second. From the first moment we entered the town, they sent to inform
the Beg, by a Kalarash, or running messenger; and the Magistrates, and Priests,
and the rest of the inhabitants, came to meet our Lord the Patriarch, and took
him to the magnificent Church of St. Demetrius ; which Vasili, the Beg, had
newly built, and given to Athanasius, the Patalaron, Patriarch of Constantinople,
whom we have just now mentioned. Upon his going to Constantinople a second
time, and becoming Patriarch, the Beg was incensed against him, and gave the
* Galats is in Moldavia, but nearly touches the frontier of Wallachia : it is situated at the
beginning of the broadest and deepest part of the Danube, distant sixty miles from the Black Sea, sixty-
live from Yassi, and seventy-two from Buchorest. The river is so far navigable for ships not exceeding-
three hundred tons burden ; but its navigation closes in the month of November : and in severe
winters, even this part of the river is completely frozen over for the space of five or six weeks.
Galats is the great market for the produce of the two Principalities, and is chiefly inhabited by com
mercial men. The town and its dependencies are governed by two Deputies of the Prince of Mol
davia, called Percalabi (this word in the Archdeacon's manuscript is written Barcalam ,9'Ju). The
number of fixed inhabitants does not exceed seven thousand ; but the great concourse of people,
occasioned every year by commercial pursuits, gives the town the appearance of being very populous.
Galats is a general depot for goods of all kinds ; but as furs of every quality form a part of the national
costume, and are, besides, necessary, from the natural rigour of the climate, they are a main article of
its vast importations.
}4 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
church to the Monks of the "Ayiov "O^oc, or Holy Mountain. This Patalaron,
at our first arrival in Moldavia, went to Moscow, (for the Beg was very angry
with him,) and staid there a year and a half. Then he returned to the country
of the Cossacks ; and died there, on the third day of Easter.
At the entrance of our Lord the Patriarch into the church, and afterwards, on his
coining out, they rang the brazen hells, according to custom. This was the first
time of our hearing them. May God not he startled at the noisy pleasantness of
their sounds ! After chaunting for the Patriarch the "A%iov la-riv, the Clergy went
to receive him, in their robes, with torches and thuribles, and said, " Have mercy
on us, O God ! " &c. ; mentioning his name, and afterwards that of the Beg and
his consort. Then they concluded the service with a HoXv%Poviov for the Beg, his
consort, and his son, as they always do. The Patriarch then went out before
all, with torches preceding him, and stood at the door of the church ; where he
gave his blessing to each of the congregation, as they came out, one by one ;
such being their custom. We took up our abode in the apartments belonging to
the same church ; whither we returned in the evening, after they had rung the
whole of the bells, to commemorate the Feast of Saints Athanasius and Cyrillus,
Patriarchs of Alexandria, and assisted at Vespers and Matins. Then we went
out for some time, and returned to mass. We rose after four hours and a half.
In this town of Galats are eight churches, most of them built of stone ; two
dedicated to Our Lady, two to St. Nicholas, two to St. Demetrius, one to St. Mi
chael, and the eighth to the Hague Ktvr,* and St. George. The most magni
ficent of them is one dedicated to Our Lady, all of heavy stone, with three
lofty and graceful cupolas, surmounted with superb gilt crosses. Within it is
the tower for the bells, of very large dimensions. The whole church is furnished
with battlements and embrasures for war, and was built by a Christian Archon,
a Greek, from the fortress of Brailov.
On Wednesday we set out from Galats, in carriages f drawn by horses, which
they gave us. Our luggage and attendants they mounted on wagons drawn by
oxen, and sent them on before us. There went forth with us, the Barkalam (in
* " The n«o«<rx£i/;7," Parascevc, a female Saint, honoured by the Greeks, who suffered martyrdom
in the reign of Antoninus.
7 This mode of travelling is thus described by Dr. Walsh : " A small cart, formed of jointed
staves, about three feet high, two feet wide, and not four feet long, is brought out. The inside is
lined with wicker-work, and filled with hay ; and it rolls upon four small wheels resembling trenchers,
each made of a thin block of wood, and about twelve inches in diameter. To the hind rail of this
dog's-cart a portmanteau may be tied, to serve as a support to the back. Having got in with difficulty,
and bedded himself in the hay, the traveller's knees will remain bent up to his chin ; unless he exposes
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 43
the Wallachian language) of Galats ; that is, the Soubashi or Governor, and
the Magistrates, and the rest of the Grandees of the town, to take leave of us,
at some distance, whence they returned. Then we proceeded about four hours,
in company of the Kalarash, or Konakji, whom they had appointed to conduct
us; and alighted in a small town. Early the next morning, Thursday, the Feast
of St. Iphthimius the Great, we continued our journey; and in the evening came
to a large market-town, called Bazaar Wastatakojo, on a large river, contain
ing three churches, with the bells hung over the doors. The Barkalam of this
place brought us carriages and horses belonging to the Beg, and appointed us
a conductor, as before : the former conductor returning with the carriages and
horses with which we had travelled hither. Thus they have posts of horses and
carriages established in every town.
Hence we set out ; and very late in the evening came to another large market-
town, called Birlad, containing three churches — the Church of Our Lady, newly
built of stone by the Beg, St. Demetrius, and Kyriaki.
SECT. II.
MOLD A VIA .—HA BIT A TIONS.
THE description of the houses of this country, from where we entered Mol
davia, and all over it ; also of Wallachia, and the country of the Cossacks, as far
as Moscow ; is thus : They are all of wood and pannels, with high and sloping
roofs like the camel's-back, that the snow may not rest upon them. Inside, arc-
chairs all round ; and a table, as in the houses of the Franks, is laid out upon
props in the middle. Their beds are all of rugs or counterpanes, and are per
petually made up against the wall. In every house there is a furnace, stove, or
chimney; outside of which is a kind of square inclosure of green or red clay,
and, in the houses of the rich, of glazed tiles, to inclose the smoke ; resting upon
two pillars, with a plate of iron on the top : it is called, in their language,
his legs to the hazard of being broken, by thrusting out his feet between the fore-wheels. To thi*
little machine four large horses are attached, by traces of twine, not much thicker than whipcord ; and
a post-boy, or Suruju, dressed in a white flannel-like coat, with trowsers and cap of the same colour,
mounts the near-wheel horse. His only rein is a very thin single cord, tied to the head of the off-
leader ; at the end of which is a loop, which he puts round his own neck : and then, leaning forward,
and cracking his whip, he sets off at a furious gallop, shouting all the time with a very long and dismal
cadence; and makes a progress of eight or ten miles an hour." — DR. WALSH'S Narrative,
].(-; TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
cabdour. These cabdours are very common; and you find their houses in
winter warmer than our baths.
The women of Moldavia and Wallachia wear a kind of dress resembling that
of the Frank women ; and carry their hair bound and rolled-up on the top of
their head like a loaf, with a white covering or cap : the rich, with rose-coloured
velvet. Above that they wear a veil, white also. They all carry on their
shoulders a shawl of stuff of Aleppo, of an azure colour : the rich, a shawl of
Barsal, of black silk.
The girls, in like manner, wear their hair bound and rolled-up on the top of
the head, but without any covering whatsoever ; so that you may know the maid
from the married woman. Their young children they put no clothing on
at all, and every night and morning wash them in warm \vater. In snowy
weather they roll them frequently in the snow. Every female goes with her
face uncovered, though she were an Empress.
In Constantinople and the surrounding country, the widows wear head-dresses
of a yellow-orange colour : but in Moldavia, Wallachia, and the country of the
Cossacks, the entire dress of the widows, from head to foot, is black, like a nun's
habit. In Muscovy, they wear black woollen caftans, very wide and long, with
immense large sleeves.
The domain of the Beg of Moldavia comprises four and twenty jurisdictions.
Every place similar to those which we have called market-towns is a Jurisdic
tion, or the seat of a Judge.
SECT. III.
MOLDA riA.—WASLUI.
WE departed from Birlad, when they had again supplied us with carriages
and horses, on Saturday morning, the twenty-second of Canon Essani; and came,
after dark, to another large town, called Vasiloudi ( Waslui}, that is, proper to
the king : for here was formerly the throne of Moldavia, in the time of the
deceased Stephen the Voivode, since whose reign one hundred and sixty years
have elapsed. This prince was an illustrious hero in the wars, and respected by
every body. He was engaged in four and forty expeditions, or wars, against the
Turks and Tartars ; and a number of times against the Poles and Hungarians.
He defeated them all, so that his name became famous, and every body feared
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 17
liim. This he brought about by his craftiness and good sense. His foundations
and charities are, four and forty convents and churches of stone. Here, in
Waslui, the palaces and baths and pleasure-grounds are his ; as is also the
magnificent lofty church, exalted with an elegant cupola., and exceeding high.
All round it are vaults and arches, in which are pictures and images of all the
Saints. Upon the gate, above the lowest wall, is a picture of the Last Judgment,
in gold and azure, with Moses leading Hanna and Caiaphas, and the other Jews,
towards Our Lord. They are depicted with woeful countenances. Behind them
is another troop : they are Turkish figures, with their white shawls and turbans ;
their large flowing green caftans, with long sleeves, hanging behind ; and their
harims, or inner festive dresses, of yellow woollen. They are accompanied by
their Dervishes. Behind them, and in the midst of them, are Devils driving
them on, and mocking them. The Kashidbari is at the front of them, in his cap ;
and one of the wicked Devils is climbing on his shoulder, and upsetting his cap
from his head. The church, inside, is entirely covered with paintings : its
architecture is very beautiful : and at the top of its cupola, or canopy, under
which is the high throne of the Beg, is a picture of Our Lord the Messiah.
Outside the gate is a large bell.
The churches in this country are divided into three parts. The first partition,
near the door, is open, and appropriated to the women : the second is inclosed
with a door for the common people : and the third, divided from the other by a
wall and a door, is appropriated to the Beg and his Nobles. The choir is under
arches, extending in a semicircle from north to south, with chairs.
In this town is a number of churches, besides the one we have mentioned :
and there are Armenians, who have a church of their own. We staid here the
Sunday of the Purification. Then they gave us carriages and post-horses, and
we left on Monday morning.
SECT. IV.
MOLD A VIA .—SKENTA I.
IN the evening, we came to a small town called Skenlai. With all this, our
travelling was more rapid than the flight of a bird. On our road we crossed,
with our vehicles, a river frozen over : at other times it is passed by a large
stone bridge. In the town is a magnificent new church, built by the Beg; who
(S TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
is devoted to good works, and would wish to build churches all over the world.
It is dedicated to the Holy Parasceve ; and has two lofty and graceful cupolas,
with crosses superbly gilt. The Eixcovoo-rafftg and Crucifixion are very splendid.
From this place we departed on Tuesday morning. During the preceding
night a violent wind, with excessive cold, had circulated, and the ground and
soft mud were frozen by it. All the slough which we sunk into before was now
solid, and the earth was hardened. There fell also upon us a great quantity of
snow. Moreover, the present stage was notorious for the difficulties of its road ;
which, being narrow and single, is bordered by a forest, and is fearful in the
extreme. In the afternoon, after we had been sinking in the snow, the air all
at once became warm, and it thawed; and we sank into the mud up to the
horses' bellies, in a yellow briny soil. This was our last stage, and the most
toilsome of them all. The horses halted from fatigue ; and it was after immense
labour that we arrived, towards the latter part of the afternoon, in the neigh
bourhood of a large lake, which they call in their language K/ialistao, dug by
the Voivodes and Begs, for collecting fish. It is a feoff attached to the Convent
of Our Lady, known by the title of Bonoska.
At this moment certain Archons came to us, bringing horses for the Patriarch
and for us. We mounted ; and they conducted us to a mill, belonging to the
aforesaid convent. Here they seated our Lord the Patriarch in a royal coach,
drawn by six white horses ; and I, the poor Historian, sat by the door, and held
up the silver crozier. Now came forward the Wakil, or Minister, of the Beg,
Ivvani Saljar ; that is, in their language, the Cassab Bashi of the Beg. This
gentleman had accompanied us from Jerusalem ; where we met with him, when
he was sent by the Beg to reckon up the debts of the Holy Resurrection, and
the debts also of St. Michael. Afterwards he paid us a visit, on his passage
through Aleppo with the said sums of money. His Lordship the Metropolitan
also, with the rest of the Archons, and the troops, came to meet the Patriarch :
for the Beg was absent from his capital, being gone to the province called Satjao,
to make peace between Akhmil and his Cossacks, and the Poles. When the
news came to him from Galats of our arrival, he sent to order them that they
should assemble in great numbers to meet the Patriarch ; and, in consequence,
the principal inhabitants of the whole country came out in their coaches to
receive him. From this distance you might see the cupolas of the churches and
the crosses over the convents shining afar off, and rejoicing the eye of the
beholder. When we approached the Monastery of Galata, which is considerably
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS.
distant from the city, they began ringing the great and small bells, all together;
and continued ringing till we had left them for behind. So when we came
opposite to the Convent of St. George, which is in the hands of the Monks of
Mount Sina, they rang the bells in like manner. Afterwards the troops drew
up before us.
SECT. V.
MOL DA VIA . — YA SSL
Ox Tuesday evening, the twenty-fifth of Canon the second, we entered
the city of Yash, or Yassi*, the capital of Moldavia, amidst the ringing of the
bells of all the churches and convents ; so that the applause was vast indeed.
Then they led us before the door of the Church of the Convent of St. Saba
and St. Michael; and causing our Lord the Patriarch to alight from the coach,
they robed him in his Mandya ; and the Priests came out with the Gospel, and
the Deacons with the thurible, preceded by torches. The Patriarch kissed the
Gospel ; and whilst the Deacons incensed him, and the Singers chaunted "Af ;OK
he advanced to the middle of the church, under the banners of the
g, and made a cross upon his forehead: then he did so before the doors
of the Tabernacle, and to the images of Our Lord and Lady; then to all tin-
rest of the holy images upon the doors of the Sanctuaries ; lastly, to the image
of St. Gregory the Divine (0goXo'yo?), whose festival it was : it was placed
upon a high throne, covered with a veil, as is practised in all the churches of
Greece. He then went up to his chair, and the Deacon said, " Have mercy,
O God!" &c. ; mentioning the name, first of our Lord the Patriarch; then of
* Yassi, as described in its present state by Wilkinson, contains many elegant houses built in the
modern style of European architecture, forty thousand inhabitants, and seventy churches. One part
of it stands upon a fine hill, and the other is situated in a valley. The Prince's palace is a very
extensive edifice, and is surrounded by spacious yards and gardens : it is furnished in a style, half
Oriental, half European; and lias room enough to lodge conveniently more than a thousand persons.
This capital occupies a great extent of ground, the houses being separate from each other, and
surrounded, like the palace, with yards, gardens, and orchards. All the buildings are of brick ; and
their walls, outside as well as within, are plastered and white-washed. Tiles are seldom used, and the
roofs are generally covered with wood. The streets are paved with thick pieces of timber, thrown
across, and made tight to each other. In some, the surface is made smooth and even; whilst in others,
the logs of wood are almost left in their natural state. It is supposed impossible to pave the streets
with stone, inasmuch as the ground consists of an extremely soft clay, into which heavy stones would
be gradually swallowed up.
H
50 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the illustrious Beg, Vasili Voivode ; of the Domina Catherina ; and of their
son, Stephani Voivode : the choir repeating the Hohv%govtov for each. We
left the church, after the Patriarch had given his blessing to the congregation,
robed in his Mandya, and carrying his crosier : and having taken his abode in
the apartments of the Abbot, he was visited with the salutations of all the
Grandees.
On the eve of Thursday, they rang the bells for the Feast of the Translation of
the Reliques of St. John the Chrysostom ; and we assisted at Vespers and Vigils.
After the clock had struck the tenth hour of the night, they again rang the
bells ; and we entered the church, which we did not leave till early in the morning,
after the prayer of the "Ogdgov.
It is remarkable, that in Moldavia and Wallachia, and in all the country of
the Cossacks, as far as Moscow, they stand in the church from the beginning of
the service to the end, morning and evening, in all seasons, with their heads
uncovered, particularly in presence of a Patriarch, or Chief Priest, or Abbot, or
even an ordinary Priest : for in all these countries they wear calpacks of felt,
with fur, even the Princes and Grandees. The ladies also, in Moldavia, wear
calpacks of red velvet, with sables ; but in Wallachia, and among the Cossacks,
with a white handkerchief; and the richest, with ornaments of pearls.
After the morning prayers, when the clock has struck the third hour of the
day, they return to mass, from which they come out in about three hours' time,
if it is the festival of a Saint, or the Assumption of Our Lady, or the Easter
Holidays. But before they ring the bells for mass, they strike the bell of the
Oblation (^jbyX when every person, who has the means to present any thing to
the church, pays his dues for the season.
SECT. VI.
YASSL—ST. SABA.
THE Church of St. Saba is entirely built of stone, inside and out. It has
only one door, on the south side; over which is painted the image of the Saint,
as is usual in all the churches of this country. The building is long and single,
but raised upon strong double walls, with nine openings for the air on each side,
and two large Turkish cupolas, built on the model of the largest in our country.
They are the only ones of the kind in these parts. The artist who built them
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 51
was of Constantinopolitan origin, by name Yanaki, and held the situation of
architect to the Begs of Moldavia. Around each cupola, inside, are thirteen
arched vaults. The outside of the cupolas is perfectly round, and is covered
with tin, which glitters afar off, in the sunshine. On the top of them are two
large gilt crosses, very magnificent. The whole roof of the church is also
covered with tin. One of the cupolas is over the choir ; the other is over the
Na^^|*. There are hut two columns: behind that on the right hand is the
throne of the Beg, placed on high, with a canopy and pillars of wood, and facing
the east. Opposite, by the other column,, is another throne, but of meaner form,
either for his son, or for the Domina. On the right of the Beg's is the chair
for the Chief Priest, placed up against the wall, among the other chairs, which
are set all round the inclosure.
The OoXusAsof, which they call Xo^o?, is exceedingly large, suspended within
the cupola, over the choir, and consisting of four-and-twenty pieces, all gilt.
Within it is another small one, resembling a canopy. In respect to the YJixuvo-
(rrce.<ris, in all these countries it is divided into three rows: that which is
immediately over the doors of the Sanctuary consists of the whole of the Domi
nical Feasts. The next above it has the picture of Our Lord, in the middle,
wearing a sako and a crown, and sitting on a throne. On his right and left are
the Apostles, standing. Invariably, next to him, on the left, stands St. Paul;
and, on the right, St. Peter. Around them are Our Lady and St. John, &c.
Above this row is the picture of the Trinity, in the centre, with the Prophets on
each side. Over all is the Crucifixion.
The Sanctuary is very spacious, with three arched windows, guarded by huge
bars of iron. On the left is a descent by steps, leading through the choir to the
pulpit. It is very high, and constructed of coloured stone, as is also the cupola,
bearing the cross over it. It is supported by spiral pillars of stone. Within it
is a spacious hiding-place for the church vessels, &c. in case of an alarm.
In the south wall of the church are three very large windows, with iron bars
and arches, near the door, where is the tomb of Yanaki, the architect, inclosed
within a grating, hung with pictures, and with a votive candle always burning.
In the north wall are five similar windows. The pavement of this church is laid
with tiles; and, in general, all the churches in these countries,' from Broussa to
Moscow, are paved with tiles.
* " The N«p0ij£:" the lower end of the church, immediately within the entrance-door; beyond
which, in ancient times, the Catechumens and Penitents were not allowed to advance.
•y) TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The place for the women is at the top of the church, in a gallery, with a
separate Eixwoa-raa-ic. They ascend to it through a passage in the wall, leading
directly from the church door.
The tower for the bells is a large square structure., very strongly built of
stone, with two vaults in the centre, intended as hiding-places for the church
property, in case of alarm. The steps are very numerous, which lead to the
top. There are two immense towering arches, to which the bells are hung, five
in number. The largest of them is of vast size, and is the wrork of the Danes.
All the tongues of these bells are of iron.
The convent, with all its appendages, is constructed of wood, as the convents
generally are in this country.
SECT. VII.
YA SSL— COURT.
ON the afternoon of Sunday, the thirteenth of Canon the second, we went to
see his Highness the Beg, as he entered the town, amid the ringing of all the
bells. In the evening, he sent some bread to our Lord the Patriarch, to bless,
that he might have it brought back to him the next morning. The following
day came Yoani Boyar, the Saljdar, and all the Begs, who had met us on our
arrival, accompanied by about fifty soldiers, or Janissaries, all clothed in red.
With them came a royal coach, drawn by six grey horses; in which they placed
the Patriarch, after they had robed him in his Mandya. I was seated at the
door, and held up the crosier. The soldiers then marched before us, two and
two, till we entered the Corta, in their language,, that is, the palace ; and
approached the steps of the Divan, between rows of troops. Here the Patriarch
alighted, and went up the staircase, whilst they held his train; and I, as usual,
went before him. All the Grandees came forth to receive him in the outer hall,
and in the second intermediate. The Beg came to meet him from the inner hall,
appropriated to himself, and kissed his hand. The Patriarch kissed the Beg's
forehead, according to custom, and gave him his benediction : and they sat
down. The Beg, from the greatness of his love and friendship for him, wept
more than once. We all of us made our obeisances to the ground before the
Beg, and kissed, first his right hand, then the left ; as we did afterwards at going
out. The Beg then remained conversing with the Patriarch, and expressing his
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 53
sentiments of veneration and love towards him for about an hour., and much
delighted his grateful heart. Hereupon the Patriarch blessed him; and,, taking
his leave, departed. They placed him again in the coach, as before, and we
returned to the convent.
On Tuesday morning, being the first of the month Ishbat, we, his attendants,
went to make an offering to the Beg of the presents brought for him by our
Lord the Patriarch; the whole of which were in trays, covered with fringed
napkins, according to the custom of these countries; though the offering be
merely a present of bread. When we entered the large hall of the palace, the
Beg's Minister, the Saljdar, came with a scribe, who wrote the names of the
presents, one by one.
SECT. VIII.
YA SSL— PRESENTS.
THIS is the list of the offerings made to the illustrious Beg: — A pair of
embroidered pillow-cases; a piece of rose-coloured chintz; two sugar-basins, of
palm-wood ; a box of musk soap ; two boxes of scented soap ; a small quantity
of Aleppo soap; two pots of preserved ginger; a box of dry preserved fruits of
Italy; some oil of almonds; preserved apricots; pistachioes, preserved with salt
and without salt, &c.
These he went in and presented to the Megas Logati, or Deftardar. Then
they led us in before the Beg, who rose from his seat, out of respect to our Lord
the Patriarch; and we bowed to him, both on entering and retiring. They
now presented to him the offerings in the trays, whilst the scribe said : " The
Patriarch of Antioch presents to your sovereignty" so and so, till all thc-
offerings had been displayed ; and the prince repeated his thanks for each.
Then we returned, and brought similar presents for Stephani Voivode, who
received us in an apartment by himself. Thirdly, we brought presents of the
same kind for the Domina, consort of the Beg, to whom we made small
obeisances on entering and retiring, and kissed her hand. She was sitting on a
chair, with a calpack of red velvet, with sables on her head. Her Kachia first
went in and announced us, and then we entered. She returned us many
thanks, and rose from her chair at our entrance. It grieves me to reflect that
all our gifts went to loss, when Vasili afterwards was broken in his fortunes.
51 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
On Thursday, the third of Ishbat, came Kozal Effendi, that is, Papa
Theodosi, head of the Monastery of Kolia,
This is the allowance, in their language called Mertek, which the illustrious
Beg settled upon us: four loaves of the best white bread for our Lord the
Patriarch ; two others for his family ; two okkas of the best wine for him, and
two for his family ; one okka of butter ; one okka of bread ; two okkas of flesh
meat ; one okka of wax candles ; one of tallow ; every week two wagon-loads of
wood; and money for our daily expenses. If we had had horses with us, we
should have been allowed barley and grass.
We went in the coach to see the Convent of Our Lady, belonging to the
Domina, the Beg's consort, who has built it new. The church is extremely
beautiful. In it is a very ancient and miraculous image of Our Lady, encircled
within four-and-twenty rosaries. Its hands and arms are of pure gold, the
Domina having gone to the utmost expense in adorning it: for her son
Stephani Voivode was afflicted with a grievous disorder, and being carried by
her to the foot of this image, he was instantly restored to health. Before it are
gilt-silver lamps, always burning. In front of the Sanctuary-doors are four
candlesticks of brass, handsomer and brighter than gold, of Danish workmanship,
which are said to have cost their weight in silver.
Behind the Beg's chair, upon a pillar, is the picture of Vasili Voivode, at full
length, in a robe of fur and sables; holding in his hand a drawing of the church,
which he is presenting to Our Lord, who blesses him, surrounded by angels.
Behind him stands his Lady the Domina, a Circassian princess, in a similar
dress, attended by her daughters, one of whom is now with the Poles : the other
she has lately given in marriage to the son of Akhmil, the Cossack. Next to
them is Stephani Voivode, with his third sister, who afterwards were taken into
Russia ; both of them in beautiful dresses, and exact likenesses.
Leaving the church, we went to table; and then ascended to the bell-tower,
which is very large and ancient, and has no superior throughout all these
countries, in height and breadth and magnificence.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. IX.
Y A S SI.— DA NQ UE T.
ON the morning of Tuesday, the eighth of Ishbat, his Highness the Beg sent
notice to our Lord the Patriarch to prepare for a meeting with him : and a little
before noon, the Saljdar came with a kind of carriage, in their tongue called
Sania, which is moved without wheels : for it was a frost, and a great deal of
snow had fallen, so that the coach with wheels could not be used ; whereas this
carriage may move on rapidly, without danger of upsetting. With the troops
therefore preceding us as before, we entered the Court, where we found the Beg
alone in the apartment. The Patriarch presented to him the Letters which he
had brought from Paisius, the Patriarch of Constantinople ; and also from the
deposed Euanicius ; likewise those with which he had been charged by the
Patriarch of Jerusalem. Every time the Logati had finished reading a letter,
the Beg rose from his seat and took off his calpack. Then the Patriarch made
him a present of immense value : it was the lower jaw of St. Basil the Great, of
a yellow colour, very hard and heavy, and shining like gold. Its smell was
more delightful than amber ; and the small and large teeth were remaining in
it, unmoved. It came into our hands at Constantinople; where it had been
treasured up by the relatives of Kyr Gregorius, Metropolitan of the ancient
Csesarea, and was bought for its price in gold. He gave him other presents of
the like nature, from different places ; some of them invaluable reliques of Our
Lord the Messiah, and of His holy Apostles ; all obtained in Constantinople,
the Queen of Cities, where every thing is to be found. Among the holy trea
sures which we purchased there with gold, were ; A piece of the horse of St.
Demetrius ; a portion of the blood of St. George ; some of the hair of the
Martyr Anastasia, which liberates from enchantment ; a finger of the Mother of
St. Eustathius the Martyr ; some pieces of a stone on which is the blood of the
Messiah, from the Holy Sepulchre ; some pieces of the wood of the Cross, of a
dark colour, like ebony, and very heavy : we tried them in the fire, and they
became like it ; on being taken out, they cooled, and returned to their former
state : we tried them also in water, and they sunk to the bottom : they were
placed in a round box of Indian workmanship, sculptured with great art : they
lay on cotton, and were covered with a piece of brocade the size of the box.
56 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
which was kept in a purse of rose-coloured taffeta,, with strings of blue silk.
When the Beg saw this last treasure, lie was filled with delight and admiration ;
and could not contain his joy, when the Patriarch said to him, " This is for
vou; and may it preserve you from all evil !" Then he gave him a cruet of
Holy Oil : and the Beg conceived a great love and affection for our Lord the
Patriarch, and told him of those who had come before him, and how much his heart
had been afflicted at their conduct. He then went out with him to the Divan,
or outer hall, where the royal table was spread with dishes of silver and gold,
(^'U*]^ biUlj) and spoons and forks of the same material ; and there sat down
at the upper end, on a chair covered with velvet, nailed on with gilt-silver nails.
For our Lord the Patriarch they set another chair on his right hand ; and he
blessed the table and the Beg. Then he took a piece of bread, and, dipping it
in the meat, he stood up, and all the Archons who were present arose at the
same time ; and he said a prayer for him, that is, wished him well, as is always
done on such occasions, and they sat down. All the dishes were covered with
others similar to them, till the time of eating, when the covers were lifted away :
for it is the custom with them always to bring in every dish covered to table. The
Ashji, or Mzyag KsXXaeioc, or Tabbakh Basin, that is, the head-cook, every time
he came in with a dish carried by the servants, always presented it before the
Beg, and took up the cover. If it pleased the Beg, he silently placed it before
him; and taking a (kaU) spoon, he swept round the whole dish with it, and ate
of the gathering: then he presented another; and if it did not please him, the
Beg raised his eyes in token, and the cook took it and put it under the table.
On the Beg's left hand stood a servant in a handsome dress, who took some of
the dishes, and placed them ready before the Beg ; whilst another took away his
silver plate (ii^lj), and set another in its place, wiping it as he brought it along.
The Silahdar, or Megas Spatari, stood the whole time on his right, bearing a crown
with jewels, (i_JuuJ!j Aliu) accompanied with the sword, and holding in his hand
the royal sceptre. Near to him were the cup-bearer, and other servants, always
standing. Before him was a wooden vessel, standing high upon three legs, with
water ; and in it were placed glass-bottles of different-coloured wines, and spirits,
and beer. There was also a chair near him, covered with a white cloth, with
rows of glass cups upon it, and silver and china goblets. The officer served the
Beg and the Patriarch with wine in the same cup ; and every time they drank,
all the persons present stood up. The others drank out of other cups, and of
different wine. Whenever the cup-bearer presented a goblet to the Beg, he
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 57
tasted it first, and then gave it to him. During the whole repast, the Grandees, or
great officers, stood attending the commands of the Beg ; and the Ushers were
standing close to him, with their silver wands. To every three or four glasses
of wine that the Beg drank, he took one draught of beer, as it is cool and re
freshing. After drinking, he always placed his glass in the water, or asked for
another. Observe, that whenever the Beg sits, or his son, or Domina, or any of
the Archons, or any of the great officers of the Court, whether in Moldavia,
Wallachia, or the country of the Cossacks, there never fails to be over his head
an image, with a veil, and with a torch perpetually burning before it. For my
part, I stood opposite to them, holding the crosier, and surrounded by my com
panions, and some of the Priests and Deacons of the Court, who are but few in
number. His Highness the Beg shortly made a sign to the Bostanjik ; who came
and conducted us to a place in the pantry, where we dined, whilst one of the clerks
held the crosier. Afterwards I returned, and took it from him. The banquet
proceeded ; and a quantity of fresh dishes were brought in, to replace those that
were taken away, till it was evening, and they arose to say grace. Our Lord
the Patriarch then blessed the Beg and the table, and, having taken leave,
departed. We returned in the coach to the convent.
To describe the venerable dignity of the Beg, his knowledge and acquirements,
the excellence of his good sense, his profound acquaintance with the writings of
the Ancients and the Moderns, as well Pagans and Christians, as Turks, his bravery
and warlike abilities, would exceed the powers of the human intellect. The
truth is, that he has equalled the former Emperors of Greece, or, rather, sur
passed them ; for his perfections are celebrated all over the world ; and his
abundant generosity and illustrious actions are well known, not only with
Patriarchs and Metropolitans, Priests, Monks, and Laymen ; in churches and in
convents ; but even Agas and merchants, and others of the Turkish nation, even
the Dervishes and tradesmen, have been in the practice of swearing by his head.
Yet he has been for the most part, and still is, an object of their hatred; and it
is impossible that he can defend and maintain himself in his sovereignty here.
He is known, as we have said, to the whole world; but the Emperors and
Grandees of Muscovy even palm themselves upon receiving a letter from him,
and carry it about with them in the greatest veneration. This arises from the
character they hear of him — that he bears great love for churches and monaste
ries, and practises charity to all men. The King of Poland, and the Polish
Grandees, esteem him equally : Akhmil and the Cossacks have taken his daughter :
I
j8 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the Khan and the Tartars love him more than any of these : and the Emperor
of the Germans, the King of Hungary, and the Venetians, are also well
affected towards him. He has printed a great deal in his time — Church Books,
Practices of Devotion, and Commentaries ; and, for his own people in Moldavia,
works in the Wallachian language. Formerly the people read their Prayers
only in the Servian tongue, which is akin to the Russian : for, from Bulgaria
and Servia to Wallachia and Moldavia, thence to the country of the Cossacks
and to Moscow, they all read in the Servian, in which all their books are written.
But the language of the Wallachians and Moldavians is Wallachian ; and they do
not understand what they read in Servian. For this reason, he has built for them,
near his monastery, a large college, of stone ; and has printed for them books in
their own language. The Servians, Bulgarians, Cossacks, and Muscovites speak
all in one tongue, only differing as to age and local peculiarities ; but their books
and writings are precisely the same.
SEC T. X.
YASSI.—C ONFENTS.
ON Wednesday morning, the ninth of Ishbat, the Beg, who directed his
attention to every thing that concerned the happiness and comfort of our Lord
the Patriarch, sent to him, by the Seljari before mentioned, a (<L^-/) Farjiyya of
black woollen-cloth, lined with sables, and a Caftan of satin, with money for the
expense of making up ; and gave him a promise to pay all his debts. These
presents were brought, folded up, on the arms of servants, to our convent.
On Saturday, the Abbot of the Beg's monastery, which is named after the
three Patriarchs, sent to invite our Lord ; and we went to him in the coach
This monastery is singularly beautiful ; and appears like a castle, having, all around,
stone walls. Over the gate is a tower for the bells, and for the town-clock, which
is all of iron, with large wheels. The bells are suspended over it, on beams of
wood. The clock-work fills up one-half of a small room. It has an iron wire
which enters the roof, and passes up to the ridge of the large bell : to it is
attached a heavy iron hammer (<xjyU-). When the time comes for it to strike,
there is a long piece of wood, issuing from the arch of the tower, which has
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 59
springs that move the small hells hung at its head outside : the name of it is the
(*xLc) Alarum,, to warn the people to listen, as it precedes the hour stroke : this
wire is drawn down hy the wheels ; at the same time the hammer is raised, and
falls upon the edge of the bell, which gives a sound that is heard by the
whole town.
The church is in the middle of the convent*. The Refectory is under a
stone cupola. At a little distance from this convent, near the Baths, and upon
the border of the Great Lake, called the Khalistao, or Collection of Fish, is the
magnificent college which the Beg has built.
On Sunday, we assisted at the church-service in our own convent ; and the
Abbot of the celebrated monastery called Galata, which is dedicated to the
Ascension of Christ, and was built by Peter the Voivode, came and invited our
Lord the Patriarch to honour them with a visit : and the Patriarch rode thither
in a Sania (sledge), with four black horses: for there had fallen a great quantity
of snow, and the cold was excessive, (aJu 'Jilkl dlis) so that our finers were
The description of llie churches is much alike. That of the Three Patriarchs, in the above
fonvent, is thus described in the Arabic text : —
**•*-
j.A.'.\
^liullc ^UAAJ
<xiXAx»Jl _
.L Lob
^s
' U J^i' lyil s;yl«J! <ujyUJ|
(»0 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
nearly bitten off. The monastery is distant from the town about an hour and
a half. As soon as we approached it, they rang all the bells, until we entered
the church ; where we assisted at mass, and afterwards went up to table. In
the evening we returned to our convent. At our departure, they ceased not to
ring the bells till we were distant from them. The tower in which the bells are
hung is over the gate of this monastery.
On Thursday, in Shrovetide, the Abbot of the Monastery of the Assumption,
known by the name of the Voivode Bonoska Convent, came to invite the
Patriarch ; and we went thither in a Sania drawn by four black horses, which
he sent for us. I never recollect without a sigh for past delights, the continual
rides of the Patriarch, either in the coach or the sania, with the crosier held
before him, and the Heads of the monasteries on his right and left ; whilst both
his hands were employed in giving his blessing to the people in the streets and
lanes, and the Turks were looking on.
In Yassi is an edifice for baths, built by Vasili the Voivode, on the plan of the
Turkish baths, with cupolas and an abundance of marble, and parted into beau-
_^o]-£ i •^os » »%
. Rxxrv-. j . ^-i
;s>. ,3.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
01
tiful closets or recesses. We bathed there several times. He has also built, in
one of his palaces near the apartments of the Domina, other superb baths, for
his own private use and that of his consort, with a marble pavement and many
fountains : its water is brought from the lake in carts. When he had been
defeated the third time by his enemies, and his palaces were empty of his
family, they heated this bath for the Aga of the Treasury, and we several times
used it.
After we had visited the church of the convent, we went up to the Refectory.
At every banquet that takes place here and elsewhere in this country, a cup is
always drunk to the Beg first. On this occasion, the Patriarch stood up, with the
cup in his hand, saying, " By the intercession of Our Lady, the perpetual and
purest (Lkiyuo!) Virgin Mary ! " and all the company responded, " By her inter
cession, have mercy on us, and save us, O Lord ! " Then he said, " By the
power of the Cross!" and they responded, in like manner as before. ' By the
prayers of the Angels, and the merits of the Saints and Martyrs!" as it is
appointed in the Kovruxiov, at the time of the sacrifice. And every time he
.rx«JU5>- J
. JyixJl ^s^ ^ccULo^ tJ;^' ^
JJ" k»^ ^
o y » . <X.aJ
J ^ (j) . JyiJl AU
Joe JfcJo' l^iJt . lyju*;*- H_j l^'Liyo ^ . lol iuolCJl * Js& JCJ-io ^L,ja> . J
<v2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
repeated by himself, they responded " By their intercession, &c." to the end.
Then he said, ''• May God protect the Sovereign, the lover of Christ, Vasili Voi-
vodc, in health and happiness; and his Domina and Son likewise!" Having
further expatiated in his prayers for the Beg, he drank the cup, standing ; and
then sat down.
This Convent of the Bonoska, and the other two of St. Saba and Galata, are
feoffs to the Patriarch of Jerusalem ; and they drank a cup to him, with the cere
monies we have detailed on the Beg's account ; our Patriarch standing till he
finished his prayer for him. After the assembly had repeated the UoXvxgovtov,
with all his titles for our Lord, we returned in the Arabah to our convent. In
this country it is not the custom for the Patriarch to go out into the town at all
without a mandya and a coach.
At break of day, on Friday, we went to see his Highness the Beg, as he went
out with his attendants to pay a visit to the Metropolitan of the Town Brlam,
who was ill.
Observe, that his Highness the Beg Vasili Voivode held a Divan every day :
but the Divan of Saturday was set apart for the judgment of felonies ; to put to
death those who had committed murders ; and restore to liberty those who are
found not guilty. God Almighty has not created upon the face of the earth a more
vicious people than the Moldavian ; for the men are all of them murderers and
robbers. It is calculated, that since the time that Vasili became Beg, about
twenty-three years, he has put to death more than fourteen thousand robbers, bv
register of judgment. And yet he condemned not to death for the first crime :
but used to flog and torture and pillory the criminal ; afterwards setting him
at liberty. For the second perpetration he would cut off an ear; and for the
third, the other : it was only for the fourth commission that he put to death.
We ourselves saw a circumstance, in the conduct of these people, that strikes
one with horror ; viz. that their priests are carried out to execution. Yet the
Beg, with all this severity, is unable to reform them. '
As to their wives and daughters, they are utterly destitute of modesty and
character : and though the Beg cuts off their noses, and puts them in the
pillory, and drowns many of them, so as to have caused some thousands of them
to perish, yet he proves too weak to correct their manners.
On the Saturday in Lent, when the abstinence from cheese begins, it is usual
here to release all who are in prison ; as on the first Friday of the Fast they close
the tribunals and litigations ; and the Beg shews himself to no one, except in the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. <j;$
church, where he is constant in his fastings and devotions, as are also all his
nobles and courtiers.
On the morning of the Monday (^Jujl) of the Purification, we went out to look
at the Police-Superintendant of the rounds, who had with him the halberd and
the staff, to inflict blows on any one who publicly got drunk, or committed any
nuisance ; and he also weighs all the eatables, in reference to their price. It is
to be observed, that all the eatables in the whole of these countries art
retailed by the women.
The fast of Lent is strictly observed by the Court and the higher classes of the
people. But the lower orders keep no fast, nor perform any prayer, nor appear
to have any religion at all. They are Christians only in name; and their priests
set them the example of passing whole nights in debauchery and intoxication.
Such are the scenes we witnessed in this country. But in Wallachia, which God
preserve ! it is very different; and the religiousness of its inhabitants, their mo
deration, and good conduct, are pre-eminent.
After prayers, we sat down to table ; upon which nothing was laid but macerated
beans, lentils cooked with oil, and some greens boiled in water with a little salt.
Such is their fare throughout the year. As to wine, they never taste it; nor do
they use oil, except on Saturdays and Sundays. Their drink is (^.UJ *U) cider.
For us the Beg ordered, on Wednesdays and Fridays during the Fast, whereof
this was the first week, both beer and mead. No person in all this country
drinks pure water, except a very little. As to orgeat, and ^x*, and sesame, they
are not at all acquainted with them. Even their oil and olives are imported for
them by the merchants from Romelia; as are also melons and bjjJoi-, lemons,
vetches, pearl-barley, &c. Every okka of oil we bought cost us half a piastre ;
the okka of olives, a quarter; of melons, a piastre and a half; of isjjiai. fresh, a
dollar; and every okka of ^^a**- vetches, or small peas, a quarter-dollar : for in
this country no one grows them, and none are acquainted with them but the
7-ich.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS
SECT. XL
YA S S L—P RODUC TS*.
GREENS, such as (jL*) beet, (^JjjJb) onions, scallions, and (.y) garlic, do not
appear till after Easter. For during Lent it is all snow continually, both night
and day ; and in the morning the ground is as hard as a marble-pavement, parti
cularly in the roads and streets. Afterwards, when the sun rises and the day is
warm, it thaws, and the mud loosens, and the mire becomes too deep for car
riages to pass. In the convents and the houses of the rich there are caves or
cellars, with vaults of stone, of great extent : they call them, in their language.
Benimja, and Benisa : herein they lay their barrels of wine ; and there are
also places within them for planting and sowing. Before winter conies on, and
the snow falls, they store up here their ^.jjjJb and onions. Their (eL>,lT) leeks
are very abundant, and very sweet : they sow them in the cellars we have men
tioned, where they thrive, protected from the cold : when they wish, they take-
them up green, throughout the winter, and eat them, particularly during Lent.
In the convents, after their supper on the Wednesday evening, they serve up no
meal till Friday evening.
After Vespers on Saturday, his Highness the Beg sent his Vakil, or Minister.
the Seljari, to inquire concerning the health of our Lord the Patriarch ; and to
say, that, with his permission, he intended to go to the Convent of Galata, for the
purpose of attending mass there, on the following day. For his Lent provisions,
he sent with him a barrel of oil, and one of lemon-water ; a bag of fresh isjjdasJ,
a bag of rice, another of barley, another of lentils, one of vetches, one of beans.
and one of millet, carried by the soldiers, on their backs.
'• The fertility of Moldavia is inexhaustible. The white wines of the mountains are delicious ; the
wheat is excellent; and the season of harvest occurs as early as the month of June. Maize is much
cultivated, yields abundant crops, and never disappoints the hopes of the husbandman. Excepting- the
olive and fig tree, all fruit-trees common to England are found in abundance ; and melons, pumpkins,
&c. are produced in great plenty. On breaking up the virgin soil, it is the common practice, first to
plant cabbages, and in the intervals to sow pumpkins, which, twining their large leaves over the ground,
choke the weeds, and prevent their flowering. The slopes of the hills are covered with vines, which
produce wine in such abundance, that large quantities are exported into Russia and Transylvania.
The severity of the winters is turned to good account in its manufacture. The wine is exposed, in
immense butts, to the open air during the severe nights of December; and when its watery particles
have become frozen by the cold, they perforate the cake of ice with a hot iron, and draw off the pure
vinous part, highly concentrated. After this process, to which Ovid has made an allusion, the wine
equals that of Hungary in strength and flavour."- — DR. NEAI.E'S Travels.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. ft5
At the conclusion of the early service on the Sunday, the Seljari again came
with the Beg's coach, which was lined with red cloth and silver lace, drawn by
six bay horses ; and we went in it, dressed in our robes, to the aforesaid convent.
Upon entering the church, we found there all the Heads of the monasteries ; it
being their custom, whenever the Beg assists at mass, to attend there in a body.
As soon as the bells had ceased ringing, the Beg entered, with the Domina and
his son Stephani ; and mass was celebrated with great solemnity. The singing
was very beautiful : and I remarked, that, on the right side of the choir, the
Prayers were chaunted in Greek; and on the left in Wallachian, at the same time.
After mass, the Beg retired with the Patriarch to a private apartment, where they
conversed together till the table was laid. The banquet was sumptuous, and
furnished with such abundance, that, as it happens on all occasions when the
Beg dines after public attendance at mass, the quantity of meat and wine served
up was sufficient for the repast of more than a thousand men.
At the conclusion of the evening service, the Beg departed in his coach ; whilst
the bells rang, and ceased not till he was far out of sight. This was truly a
memorable day for us ; and I recur with pleasure to the splendor of the cere
monies, and the delightful singing of the boys belonging to the Beg's household,
who vied with each other to charm the ears of the listeners.
On our return to our own convent, we observed, by the road-side, the vast lake *
behind the Beg's palace : it is called Khalistao, and is a preserve for the noble
* " The aspect of Moldavia is very singular ; perhaps, at this sera, unique. There are two other
districts in Europe which probably once resembled it greatly ; but the progress of civilization and
agriculture, during the course of a few centuries, has altered them ; whilst Moldavia remains in its
primitive state. It is intersected with marshes and small lakes, in a degree curious beyond all description.
Mecklenburg Strelitz, and La Vendee in France, were formerly in the same state. La Vendee is now
nearly drained ; and the lakes of Mecklenburg are filling up. All these three countries were inhabited
by the Venedic nations, or the people who dwelt on fens ; the same tribes who first inhabited that part
of England now called Cambridgeshire. The ancient Venedi appear to have been, like the Dutch of
the present day, the beavers of the human race — all their settlements were upon the banks of small
lakes, or by the sides of fens. What instinct could have led them to choose such situations, it is
difficult to conjecture : but it is probable that their diet was fish and the flesh of water-birds ; and
finding, probably, that the noxious effluvia from the marshes were best obviated by covering them with
water, they constructed dams across the narrows and rapids of the small rivers, and filled the marshy
hollows with water ; around which they dwelt in security, and lived upon the salmon and wild-fowl
which fattened in these artificial lakes. Most of the rivers in Moldavia are, at this hour, intersected
with weirs, which dam the waters, and form ponds : mills are built on these weirs, and the villages are
placed around them. The face of the country consists of undulating steppes, of vast extent, covered
with the most luxuriant crops of grass. Their monotonous aspect is only interrupted, from time to
time, by these small round lakes, fringed with villages of the most primeval character."
DR.NEALE'S Trarels.
K
£5 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
fish which, in their language, they name Effcndiko : this fish is very much
esteemed, is very large, and contains the seed of the Caviari*. The lake on this
day was frozen over; and the Nobles were promenading upon it on horseback,
between the Court and the Convent of Galata, When the inhabitants wish to
fill vessels from the lake, or to water their cattle, they dig, with mattocks, a kind
of well through the ice, till the water rises, and the animals can drink : but it is
very soon again frozen over. The fishermen dug holes in the same way to catch
fish occasionally for the Beg. This day was presented to us a large apple, beau
tiful in smell, colour, and in taste, which they call Vasiliko (that is, Royal), and
preserve in their cellars in straw : it lasts till the time of the new spring apples.
They presented us also ( >r«y>) peaches, (^j*-) yellow plums, and cherries, pre
served in sugar, which you might suppose were newly gathered, so fresh and
luscious were they.
Near the Convent of St. Saba is another convent, called St. Parasceve, with a
handsome church : it is in the hands of the Monks of Mount Sina. On the
wall, over the door of the church, is a painting of Sina, the mountain of God,
where Moses conversed with the Creator ; and of the Monastery upon it.
In this town of Yassi, which is very extensive |, there are said to be thirty
churches. The population is owing to the healthiness of the air and the sweet
ness of the water, which give this place a superiority over all the rest of
Moldavia.
On the eve of the fourth Sunday in Lent, the Beg sent the Patriarch word
that he intended to assist at mass the next day, in the Bonoska Monastery.
Early in the morning, after the matins, he sent his coach for him ; and we went
to the monastery, and vested the Patriarch in his robes. Then the bells began
to ring; and the Beg came with a handsomer suite than on the former occasion,
* Caviari is made of the roe of sturgeon and tunny-fish. A sturgeon furnishes from 10 to 30
pounds weight of caviar ; and a tunny-fish, 120 pounds. As five eggs of a tunny-fish and seven of a
sturgeon only weigh a grain, a computation may thence be formed, how many millions of eggs these
fish contain.
f Although now so considerable a town, Yassi was not the seat of Government until the year 1574,
when Moldavia fell under the power of the Ottomans. The ancient Capital and Bishop's See was
Suczava, a town in Upper Moldavia, situated in a valley, near the sources of the Pruth, at the foot or
the Transylvanian Alps ; which place is now a heap of ruins, and included in the Austrian Bukovine.
Yassi first became known, in modern history, during the wars of Charles the Twelfth of Sweden and
Peter the Great of Russia ; when the Russian army, after having taken it, narrowly escaped being made
prisoners of war by the Turks, under Baltaji. It was again occupied by the Russians in 1739, 1771,
and 1788: on which last occupation it was held by them till 1792, when it was restored by the Treaty
of Yassi, signed, in January 1792, by Prince Repnin and the Grand Vezir Yusuf.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. (ft
riding on a tall grey Turkish horse, adorned with much gold-lace and a quantity
of jewels. It was I that read the Gospel this day. In all these countries, their
surprise was great at the manner in which we read Greek ; for our name among
them is contemptible.
There were present at this mass four Metropolitans — the Bishop, always residing
at Court ; the Metropolitan of Sophia ; Velasius, Metropolitan of Naupactus in
the Morea ; and a Bishop from Georgia, who was newly arrived from Moscow
with an abundant collection of alms. He reported himself as a Bishop over a
church in the country of Dadian ; in which church is preserved an inner garment
of Our Lady the mother of God. On this account, the Emperor had given him,
besides a bountiful contribution in money, the crown of Kalimetri, and all the
paraphernalia of a Chief Priest. He openly wrore a shirt of hair and sackcloth.
They took the Patriarch with them in the coach to Court, to a princely ban
quet, such as we have already described ; and in the evening we returned to our
convent.
On the eve of Thursday of Repentance they performed solemn matins, and
struck the bells at the second hour of the night. First, the sexton struck the
wooden clapper three hundred times, stopping after each hundred : then they
rang the brass bells all at once, for a long time. It was the sixth hour of the
night before we left the church. In the forenoon we celebrated mass ; after
which we went to table, and drank wine.
On Saturday, the Beg again sent to inform the Patriarch that he should attend
mass the next day in the Church of St. Nicholas, adjoining the Court ; known
by the name of the Beg's Church. He sent the coach accordingly for us ; and
having entered the Church, we robed the Patriarch, and began the mass; such
being the desire of the Beg. Then I said EvXiywov AztrvoTa, and the officiating
Priest said EvXowpevoi. Beginning the Evening Prayer, they said, " Bless the
Lord, O my soul!" then the twiners ; then the Megog pavegov ; then the El'trodo?:
and at this moment the Beg entered, having walked on foot from the palace.
We did not go to meet him as usual, because we had begun mass ; but as he
placed himself before his chair, the Patriarch gave him his benediction, and also
to his son, a second and a third time. Then we finished the mass, and ate of the
Prince's boiled meat *, after the Patriarch had said the prayer for him : then we
took some of the wine. When the Beg retired, the Patriarch walked with him
to the palace. There was a very large banquet and assembly on this day; larger
than usual, because of its being a Dominical Feast. When the dishes were brought
res elixa : pec. tale olus. GOL.
6$ TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
up from the kitchen, they beat the drums, and sounded the fifes and trumpets :
and the festive joy was very great. The banquet and the Turkish music did not
cease till the evening, when we returned home.
Observe, that in the middle of this month, Adar, they plant the peach-tree, and
such like ; also the rose-bush, and similar plants ; and sow beans, onions, garlic,
and so forth. At this season, they import lemons from Ilomelia, and store them
in their cellars, each in a piece of parchment. The okka of pomegranates costs
half a piastre ; for scarcely any thing is produced in these countries.
On Saturday, after mass, when we left the church, about noon, they preceded
the Patriarch with torches to the burial-ground near the church. For a person
had requested of the Patriarch, saying : " My father, before his death, ordained in
his will, that for three years after his death his grave should be opened, and
the Chief Priest, or the Patriarch, if any were found, should be invited to pray
over him the Prayer of Absolution and Remission. We therefore vested the Pa
triarch in his 'Evirga'fcfaiov and ' Clpotpogiov, and he began the prayers.
SEC T. XII.
YASfiL— FUNERAL SERVICE.
AFTER the singers had chaunted the verses of the dead, the Patriarch said the
Prayer of Absolution, and the ^uy^ugere or Remission, and sprinkled holy water
upon the body. Then we went to the Refectory of the convent ; and the
family of the deceased performed a Mvyftcxrvvov for him, by bringing to the table
a large tray of all kinds of meats, with boiled flesh, and wine. To all present
they distributed a large taper. Then our Lord the Patriarch stood up with the
assistants, and said 'EvXoyriTog o ©go? r,^uv, and " Holy is the Lord ; " and the
singers chaunted some verses for the dead. The Deacon then, in his ^rot^ocgiov,
threw incense from a silver thurible upon the assembly, and said, " Have mercy
on us, O God, according to thy great mercy ; and on the soul of thy servant,
who sleepeth in death ! " And the Patriarch said the Prayer for the Dead,
" O God of our souls." Then, concluding the prayers, they extinguished the
tapers, and served of the boiled meat to all ; whilst we prayed mercy for the soul of
the departed. After we had finished supper, the son distributed presents among
the assembly ; such being the custom in Moldavia and Wallachia, and the
regulation of the Mvqpoffvvov. In the mean while we recited Matins, and Tierce,
and Nones. As soon as we arose from table, they tolled the great bell, which
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US.
is a signal with them that sonic one is deceased. In whatever convent his
family desire that he should be interred, they give orders to the sexton to toll
the hell for the assembling of the Priests of the town to the funeral. This
happens in the case of a rich man, or of one whose family is in affluence : but if
it is a poor man,, they bury him without toll of bell, that none may know any
thing of it.
At this signal, six Priests of the convent, in their OsXaW, and two Deacons,
with thuribles, repair to the house of the deceased, to accompany him to the
grave ; which, in this country, is not till two or three days after his death, as
they are not accustomed to bury their dead at an earlier period. They inter
without any coffin, and with the face of the corpse uncovered. During the
wake, they burn tapers round the corpse, both night and day ; and any Priest
that wishes, goes to the chamber and reads the Gospel over the body from
beginning to end ; not only once or twice, hut many times, from the moment of
the death till the burial : and sometimes there may be fifty Priests or Deacons
who do so, for the sake of the abundant presents which are made them.
The person whose funeral-service we were now performing was an old man of
respectability, whose origin was from Iconium, and whose father and grand
fathers were Janissaries. He was himself also a Janissary ; and coming to this
place, he embraced the Christian faith, was baptized, and married. The Khat-
man, brother of the Beg, and his Vizir or Chief Minister, was his godfather. The
piety he displayed, and his assiduity in prayer, surpassed very much the degree
of them, seen in any of us. At the time of his death, he was indebted towards
some Turkish merchants ; and the Khatman immediately sent and placed a seal
upon his effects. From under the seal they obtained, however, about twenty
pieces of gold to defray the funeral ceremonies ; leaving the assets to be divided
among his heirs, after all his debts should be paid. Invitations were sent to all
the merchants of the town to assemble and attend the procession, for the sake of
reproving the Turks who should be within cognisance of the proceeding. As
they advanced, therefore, with the corpse through the streets, preceded by Priests
and torches, whenever they came to a Turkish habitation, they set down the
bier, and prayed over it with a loud voice. Upon arriving at the church, they
entered, and set it in the middle, as the bell was tolling. When the tolling had
O o
ceased, we robed the Patriarch in his Mandya, and entered the church. Then
we put on him his 'Evirgufcfaiov and his'Qp,o<pogtov; and he stood at the head of
the corpse, the face of which was bare : and upon the breast was an image laid.
7() TRAVELS' OF MACARIUS.
The Deacon then gave him the censer ; and he threw incense over the corpse, in
the figure of a cross, and afterwards upon the door of the Sanctuary, saying
TLl\oyr,ro$ ; the singers in the mean time beginning the Funeral Hymn. Then he
incensed the choir, on each side, and the rest of the priesthood present, and the
congregation of the laity. Then he incensed the corpse a second time ; and,
turning towards the east, made the sign of the cross upon his forehead three
times. He then went up to his chair; the singers all the while chaunting
their Tauba, and " Have mercy onus, O God!" so that the singing and incensing
corresponded. Afterwards they performed the Kuvuv in like manner. The first
of the Declarations was recited by the Patriarch.
The assisting Bishop then took the thurible after the Patriarch, and threw
incense round the body, a first and second time ; then towards the doors of the
Sanctuary, and the rest of the persons present; and made a cross on his forehead,
as the Patriarch had done. Then he twice made a Kogavri * to the Patriarch, and
stood in his place. At the proper time, he recited the Second Declaration.
In like manner did all the Priests who attended, each in his turn, till the
Kissing (J^uoii')- After all the Priests, the Ministering Deacon performed the
same ceremony. He had before been advancing to each Priest, in his turn, with
the thurible, and incensing him twice or thrice, till he came out and took the
censer from him. At his return, the Priest incensed the Deacon two or three
times, and gave him back the thurible. Each Priest that incensed said the
Declaration that came at its proper time afterwards, till they were all recited.
They never once neglected to incense the Beg's throne.
Then our Lord the Patriarch descended from his seat to near the head of the
corpse, and read the Gospel. It is usual for the wife and children and family
of the deceased to kneel down under the Book of the Gospel, as he reads it.
Then he read over him the Prayer of Remission ; and advancing near the image
which was lying on his breast, he made towards the east three Merawas, and
then kissed it ; then three more, and went up to his seat.
Then came the Bishop and the Abbot, each from his own side, and made
M&TUVOIUS towards the east, and kissed the image, as before. Afterwards the
Priests came in like manner, and the Deacons, and Monks, two by two. Of the
family or friends of the deceased, two were standing on each side of the church,
and distributing, to their great contentment, an alms to the congregation, either
folded up in paper, or in fringed handkerchiefs, to the poor. At the end of the
eJJ/> (J"*£- It may be rDoos, instead of Kopon'i; : eVo^o-e yvpov, he made a circle, or ambit.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 71
service, the principal persons in the function entered the church in procession,
two hy two, according- to their rank; and taking the body out, committed it to
the grave, without the convent. We did not go out with it, as it is not the
custom. If the deceased was very rich, they take all the persons present in the
church to his house to table. They then bring a large dish of boiled meat, and
distribute tapers among the congregation : and the Minister says Ev/.o'y^rci ,
then the T^TTC^/CC for the dead : the Deacon, after the incense, " Have mercy
on us, O God!" to the end; and commemorates the deceased: the Chief Priest
recites the Ew^jv, or Prayer; and chaunting over it, they partake of the boiled
meat.
SECT. XIII.
YA S S I.—RETOLUTIO X.
ON the fifth Sunday of Lent, we attended prayers in the church of the con
vent ; and his Highness the Beg had signified to our Lord the Patriarch, that he
should say mass in the Convent of Haroun the Voivode, outside the town.
But on this morning he appeared very angry, we knew not why.
Observe, that the iron clock in the Effendi Convent, from the beginning of
the month Adar till the tenth of the same month, struck twelve hours in the
day, and twelve hours equally in the night ; but after the tenth, it altered, and
struck fourteen hours in the day, and ten during night.
Now came on the untoward accidents which prevented the Beg from much
appearing in public on this day. The immediate cause of his retirement was
this : A paper was brought him by a Priest, a master of confession, shewing
that the Grandees of his country had broken their allegiance towards him, and
conspired, with the Megas Logothetes, or High Chancellor, to put him to death.
About ten days before, the Logoth6tes, by a stratagem, had gone to the Krai of
the Majars (that is, the King of Hungary), and to Matthi Beg of Wallachia, as
taking refuge with them ; and there accused Vasili of an intention to conquer
by his s\vord, and with the power of the Cossacks, both their countries, Hungary
and Wallachia. The two princes were much enraged at hearing this; and
gave the Megas Logothe'tes a large force, of about thirty thousand of their troops,
to march against Vasili, and put him to death. The Logothetes had made
a perfect submission to them, and agreed that he and they should be as one.
Between him and the Chiefs of the army of Moldavia a compact had been
72 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
entered into, that the latter should suddenly overpower Vasili, on the Sunday of
the Shaanin *, at mass-time, in his convent ; (it being his custom always to pass
there the Feast of the Shaanin, in mirth and festivity ;) and dragging him down
into a cellar, should put him to death. Almighty God, however, did not permit
this, but made known to him the conspiracy by the aforesaid paper : for his
charities and beneficence, exercised in every part of the world, repelled the mis
fortune from him.
As soon as Vasili was informed of this, he instantly closed his court ; and
removed his family, with all his wealth and effects, to the castle named Khotini,
on the border of the Polish frontier ; and there collected his troops : but they
were all perfidious, and rebellious against him. He retreated, therefore, to the
castle ; and thence, on the Saturday of the Light, he crossed the river, and,
entering the country of the Poles, repaired to the fort called Kamanitsa. From
this place he sent letters to Constantinople, with an account of what had hap
pened ; and sent to ask the assistance of Akhmil, the Khatman of the Cossacks,
and of his son, Vasili's son-in-law, Timotheus the younger. He sent also to ask
the assistance of the Khan of the Tartars.
Before Vasili set out from Yassi, he put to death three persons, chiefs of his
former army. One of them was the Sirdar Elesker. Vasili had been his god
father, and the Domina his godmother ; and they loved him exceedingly. The
Beg concealed none of his secrets from him, and admitted him to his most
intimate and tender familiarity. Once he sent him as Ambassador to the King
of Hungary, Rakotus. His immediate efforts were, to form a treaty with the
King, for removing the Beg from his throne ; pretending that he had sent to the
Turks, and offered them money to establish his brother as King of Hungary.
Rakotus fully believed him. A second time he sent him on an embassy to
Matthi, Voivode of Wallachia : there again he falsely and maliciously asserted of
him, that he had sent money to the Turks for permission to take the throne of
Wallachia for his son Stephani. He was believed by him, as he was by the
other ; and they entered into a correspondence with the King of Hungary, and
made a compact with the Logothetes above mentioned, that he should become
Beg of Moldavia by their means and power, being assisted by their forces.
The Logothetes ceased not, therefore, to send messages, and to intrigue, and
use every endeavour, till he had gained over to his will the principal men of
Moldavia ; who violently hated Vasili and his nobles, with his whole Greek
nation.
Jo- 1 Palm Sunday.
TRAVELS OF MACA11IUS. 73
A particular motive of their hatred was, that Vasili had a nephew, whose
name I do not remember, that atmsed four thousand girls : and when their
families complained against him, they were unable to establish the evidence of
his crimes ; for he used to break into their houses in the dark of the night, and
ravish their daughters. Many other such tyrannies he was also guilty of.
For three years he ceased not secretly to carry on his machinations, till he
had completed his purpose, by sending to Constantinople and obtaining the
approval and consent of the Turks to his designs. Vasili had latterly called
him to him, and given him ten thousand dinars to keep. Upon this he formed
a scheme to send his wife to a distant village in the country ; and a few days
after, he produced a letter to the Beg, purporting that his wife was very ill and
unhappy. The Beg gave him leave to go to her. Previously he had been out
witting and laughing at the Beg, by sending away from him all the foreign
troops, whom he had kept for many years in his pay, from Greece and Servia
and Bulgaria and other countries, under the pretence and assertion, that the
Beg, as he told him, had no enemies to guard against. Spending, therefore,
the money upon them which the Beg had entrusted to his care, he had been
every Saturday morning, during this Lent, disbanding a number of their banners,
until he had discharged them all, and his scheme was complete ; for the native
troops of the country had all abandoned their allegiance to the Prince.
The departure of Vasili from Yassi was on the Thursday in the week of the
Shaanin. Had he not sent his nephew, with the troops under his command, to
cut down a large bridge on the route of his enemies, they would have seized
him in the country. By this means he delayed them a couple of days, till they
had restored the bridge ; and then they were too late to meet with him. You
should have seen the dread and consternation which befell upon the departure of
the lion from his range ; for all the population of the towns became robbers
and outlaws. The merchants and principal citizens assembled in a body, and
carried the substance of their effects into the convents ; where they fortified
themselves, raising a circumvallation of carts and wagons round each convent.
As much as they feared, so did we ; for in our lives we had never seen any
thing of the like. Now ceased prayers and masses; for the churches and
tabernacles were filled up to the ceiling with furniture and provisions.
On the eve of Sunday of the Shaanin, we performed the 'Ea-Trsgivov, or Vespers,
in the Refectory of the Convent : in the morning, the "Ogfyov, without any
mass. This day, about the middle of the afternoon, the aforesaid Megas
L
74 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Logoth&es entered Yassi, with his vast army., and alighted at his own house. On
the morning of Holy Monday he entered the Court ; and they rang all the hells
for him, whilst he took his seat as Beg. lie had been three years contriving
this success, before he obtained his desire ; and he now took the style and title
of IVANOV GKORGITSA STEPHANOS VOIVODA. For it is the custom of the Begs of
Moldavia and Wallachia to set before their names IVANOV, as being the Konyji
or Metonymy of these countries. Their seal is always the head of a calf. Tin-
new Beg's name was properly Girgis, and his fathers and ancestors had formerly
enjoyed the princely dignity. Their common name was Stephanos. As well
the Grandees as the troops and peasants, all bowed submission to him, because
he was of their own race and nation.
The cause of their hatred of Vasili was, that he was a Greek by birth and
origin, and made all his courtiers and officers of Greeks ; removing the native
Moldavians, who were jeered and despised by him and his followers to such an
extreme, that they were reduced to the greatest poverty and wretchedness. For
this reason, the two nations hated each other to the utmost.
With regard to ourselves, his Lordship the Patriarch had begun to make the
Divine Mugov, or Holy Oils ; for we had brought all the ingredients from Con
stantinople, and he had promised Vasili that he would compound them in Passion
week. Vasili was exceedingly pleased at this ; and we had been employed,
from the beginning of Lent, in pounding the materials. Notwithstanding the
events that had taken place, we began the composition, that the articles might
not be spoiled; and commenced on Passion Monday. Every day we compounded
a portion; till the fifth, which was on Holy Thursday. During the whole of the
operation, the Patriarch, the Bishops, and the rest of the Priesthood, stood round
the boiler, reading the Gospels of Purification. When we had finished on Holy
Thursday, we put into the composition, oil of balsam, musk, amber, aloes, and
other precious substances; and decanted it into vessels, which we carried to the
church of the Convent of the Domina, where the Patriarch said mass.
On Easter Eve they rang all the bells, from nightfall till sun-rise ; when we
arose and performed the Easter Matins, and X^/o-roc avwrri, in the Refectory, as
before. It was a feast of melancholy, with fear and trembling; and as to the
Greek nation, they were all, both priests and laity, in hourly expectation of
death by the sword. For ourselves, as soon as the new Beg had seated himself
on his throne, he sent to our Lord the Patriarch his daily expenses, and begged
his prayers, promising him every good ; to the great comfort of the Patriarch's
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 75
heart. For the Beg knew us from the first ; and we had taken to him a present
among the first we gave ; and now, upon his taking possession of the Govern
ment, we made him a second offering. I went near to the Church of St. Nicholas,
adjoining the Court, and was a spectator of the 'Ava<rra<n; , which the Bishops of
the country and the Abhots of their Monasteries performed, according to custom,
before the new Beg ; for which purpose they had set for him a chair outside the
church.
SECT. XIV.
YA SSI.—ADMINIS THAT ION.
THE degrees of the Great Officers* of State, who administer to the Beg of
Moldavia, are as follow :—
The Megas Logothetes, who is the Great Defterdar, or High Chancellor :
under him, the Second Logothetes; then the third.
The Great Vestiar, who is the Rizmanji and the Mahasibji, or the Lord-
Treasurer : then the Second Vestiar ; and the third.
The Vornik, who is the Judge, and has a college of Judges under him.
The Baharnikos, who is the Cup-bearer or Butler, and waits upon the Beg-
on feast-days : under him the Circulators of Drink, or Sakis, who serve the Beg
on ordinary days throughout the year.
The Great Bostenik (Postelnik, Master of the Ceremonies), who always
* The corresponding List of Chief Dignitaries, and Officers of State, as lately existing in Moldavia,
is thus given by Wilkinson : —
Logothet, or Chancellor and Keeper of the Great Seal.
Vestiar, or Treasurer of the Principality.
Vornik, or Judge, presiding over the Judges of the Divan.
Paharnik, or Cup-bearer. At State dinners, he stands behind the Prince's chair, and offers him to
drink.
The First Postelnik is principal Minister, and Master of the Ceremonies at Court. His office is of
the most confidential nature ; and only given to Greeks, near relations, or intimate friends of the Prince.
The Spat/tar. His office formerly corresponded to that of Minister at War : at present, he is
Director-General of the Police throughout the Principality, and is more properly called Hetman.
Armash, or Judge of Criminal Causes relating to the Lower Orders. He has the superintendence-
of the public prisons, and collects the tribute paid by the Gipsies to Government.
As every Boyar has some title or other, he is never addressed by his name in common intercourse,
but by his title, preceded by the ancient Greek title of "Ap^wv ; such as, " Archon- Vestiar," " Archon-
Annash," &c.
76 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
carries the silver mace before the Beg : under him the Second Bostenik, and
the Third, who are also continually standing with their maces in the presence
of the Beg.
In like manner the Great Spatar, or Commander-in-chief of the Army, con
stantly carries the sword and club near the Beg : under him the First Spatar
(that is, the Silahdar}, or Keeper of the Armour ; and also the Second Spatar.
Then the Grammatikos, or Beg's Secretary.
After him the Armash, (that is the Soubaji,') who puts to death and torture.
The Silahdar is also the Commissioner of the Shambles.
After the ceremony, the Beg left the church, and walked, with an immense
retinue, to the Corta. When three hours of the day were past, they rang the
bells; and we went, with the Patriarch, to assist at the mass for Easter, in the
church of the Domina's convent. At the time of reading the Gospel, when
the minister had recited it first within the Sanctuary, the Deacon repeated it
without, in Greek, by very short clauses, and slowly. On this day they brought
to the church many trays full of eggs, dyed and painted with various figures
and colours ; hog's flesh, bread with butter of (^Lt) the boar (hog's-lard), and
sweet herbs, according to their custom ; and the Patriarch having said over
them the Prayer for Eggs and Cheese, distributed them to the congregation.
SECT. XV.
YASSL— WAR.
ON Monday and Tuesday there was no mass, from the fear and dread which
prevailed. The new Beg, however, sent a loaf to the Patriarch, to consecrate
the Passover for him. He was himself wholly engaged in paying and lodging
his troops. There was no mass either on Low Sunday; the news being come,
that Timotheus, son of Akhmil, and son-in-law of Vasili, had passed the river
Niestros (Niester), which is the boundary between Moldavia and the country of
the Cossacks, with an army of his countrymen, to make war on the new Beg;
and that they had defeated the troops of the new Beg which were guarding the
frontier on the said river.
As soon as this news arrived, the new Beg prepared his troops for the
encounter ; and having previously dismissed the Hungarian and Wallachian
auxiliaries, he now sent to require their assistance. At this moment the
TRAVELS OF MACAIIIUS.
77
advanced guard of the Cossacks, called in their language the Salraja, marched
forward, to the number only of three hundred men, and routed the troops which
the Beg had sent in array against them. Around the Beg himself were now
collected about forty thousand men, enlisted from the Moldavians, Hungarians,
Germans, Wallachians, Servians, and other nations. It was the season of the
holy festivals of that God, in whom is all the hope of this lower world ; and
yet, through dread and consternation, an entire silence was kept, both of Him
and of His sacred solemnities.
The Beg now marched forth from Yassi with all these tribes, on Wednesday
after New, or Low, Sunday (Dominica in Albis) ; and all the Greek merchants
were, willing or not, dragged along with them to the war. They soon met the
army of the Cossacks, and engaged with them from noon on the aforesaid
Wednesday till noon on the following Thursday ; when the Cossacks routed
the Beg's army, and made a great slaughter of them.
The quality of their warfare was this: the Cossacks were within their
palisades and mounds and fosses, within which and around them were their
Arabas, or carriages of all kinds. The centre was occupied by themselves and
their horses ; and they remained silent and still within their trenches, so that
not a single man of them could be perceived at all. The Moldavians thought
them dead ; and sent out a number of their Dharrabs (^l^jus), clothed in" red
woollen, about eight hundred men, to reconnoitre. When Stephen the Voivode
had discharged six guns upon them, and the Dharrabs had fired all their muskets
In return, the Cossacks instantly arose, and, having discharged their eleven guns,
sallied forth in person, and fired their muskets : then drawing their swords, they
cut to pieces every one of the Dharrabs.
In the mean time, the heavy guns were firing in all directions round the main
army, and no means of escape was left them, but by flight. Immediately, Timo-
theus advanced against them, and their rout was complete : for the Cossacks
are most active in war ; and never retreat nor take to flight, being possessed of
immense courage ; as they had shewn within the course of the two preceding
years, in their co-operation with the Poles, particularly in defence of a palisade
or target-fence. This is formed with a mound and fosse dug in the earth, which
the Turks call a Mataris, around their army, that none may fall upon them
unawares. Each man has his target and portion of trench in the ground ; and
after discharging his musket on foot, he lies down, and nothing can reach him.
He shoots his enemy, but cannot be shot at.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
These Cossacks are exceedingly wretched in their way of life, and, on their
expeditions, are satisfied with a very small quantity of food. Besides dry black
bread and water, they know no other fare : they have no tents, nor fine clothes,
nor any comfort or luxury ; and in this condition are very hardy and robust.
With this Timotheus, therefore, the Beg Vasili having formed a league and
solemn compact, the Cossacks came together to the vicinity of Yassi, and there
fought. We were spectators of the battle, from the bell-towers.
Suddenly, drums were heard to thunder, and trumpets to sound ; and it was
said that Timotheus, the son of Akhmil, was approaching, having sent his troops
before him, as usual. We soon perceived the traces of their march; and
immediately the partisans of the new Beg took to flight, not one of them
remaining behind. The Beg himself, and his favourite attendants, fled towards
Hungary; and left the Corta, with every thing in it. All the property which,
within these few days of his reign, he had plundered from the Boyars and mer
chants, remained likewise in the palace, till it became the portion of AkhrmTs son.
You might have seen the new Beg's army broken into bands, their standards
thrown away, and themselves fleeing, in tens and twenties and fifties, towards
the mountains and deserts, before our eyes, and with the Cossacks at their
backs. These pursued them to the foot of the hills, where they overtook and
slaughtered vast numbers ; and made themselves masters of an immense booty.
SECT. XVI.
YASSL—RESTORA TION.
AT this moment, Timotheus, Akhmil's son, entered Yassi, by the power of his
Cossacks, and passed by the Convent of St. Saba, on his way to the Corta.
Before the gate of the convent, our Lord the Patriarch went out to meet him.
robed in his MavJwa, and decorated with his 'QpoQcigiov, 'Esnr^a^X/ov ( JxiUal !), and
cross. He was accompanied by many thousands of men, who pressed forward
to receive the blessing of the Patriarch, kneeling down before him and kissing
his cross. Then they separated towards the glens of the mountains, and plun
dered the inhabitants of the towns and villages with whom their enemies had
taken refuge ; stripping even their women, and even pillaging their churches and
convents, for having afforded a momentary escape to their adversaries : as they
considered it an act of perfidy and treason against their Beg and sovereign Lord,
Vasili Voivoda.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 79
The General now sent, without a moment's delay, a Sotinikon (that is, a
Yeuzbashi, or Captain), with his company ; who came to the protection of our
convent, and erected a standard, marked with the cross, at its gate.
In the mean time, there fell upon the Turks and Jews great dread and terror, and
unexampled ill-treatment and spoliation on the part of the Cossacks; and so
great was the cruelty practised towards them, that if our Lord the Patriarch had
not been present, they would have been utterly annihilated. It was hardly to be
expected that such inveterate enemies would meet with other treatment ; and
the Moldavians themselves were perhaps handled even worse.
As for the Jews, they threw them into dungeons, and tortured them whole
nights long, it was said, to make them confess their property. Our hearts
sobbed with grief at the weeping of their families and infant children.
The Turks instantly fled to our Lord the Patriarch for protection ; and we
lodged them in our apartments, sitting ourselves on the outside. Thus they
escaped, with all their property. There was one indeed among them, who was
a Janissary, and saved himself with the others ; but he had a young Cossack for
a Mamlook, or purchased slave, who rendered abortive all that his master had
previously done to save his goods and money : for he discovered them to the
Cossacks, one after the other ; and they plundered the whole ; taking, at the
same time, much money belonging to his companions. We saw at this con
juncture many things that excited our utmost astonishment.
At night, they rang the bells of all the convents, and in each of them performed
solemn Matins (ajl^u) for Khatman Akhmil, and for the Khatman, his son
Timotheus ; which we also assisted at, on our part. The Deacon said, " Have
mercy on us, O God, according to thy great mercy ! " &c. And again, " We
pray for the sake of our Sovereign VASILI VOIVODA, and for the Khatman
ZENOBIUS, and Prince TIMOTHKUS and his Wife." This is the lady who was a
Nun in Constantinople. Her husband spent upon her treasures of wealth, till
he brought her away, and married her. She was the daughter of Vasili and his
Domina Roxana. " Peace to them for ever ; and health and safety ! May the
Lord, our God, perpetually incline to the prosperous direction of all their affairs ;
and humble under their feet all their enemies and opponents!" Then they
chaunted the whole Kcww for Easter, and the Hagaxh'/iffig ; and we departed
from the church before midnight.
On Saturday, which fell in with the Festival of St. George, and the following
Sunday, there was no mass. On Monday evening, the Khatman Timotheus
80 TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS.
sent to our Lord the Patriarch advice, that on the next day it was his intention
to assist at mass in the Beg's Convent. At day-break on Tuesday,, we went to
the aforesaid convent, and attended at the "Qgfyov. At sun-rise, the Khatman
came to the church, and went up and stood at the chair of his father-in-law the
Beg, girt with his sword, from which he never parted. The Patriarch gave him
his blessing, and we finished the mass. It was a great and solemn day.
When the Patriarch went out from the church, the Khatman held up his
sleeves behind, till he had mounted him on his horse ; and then held his stirrup
as far as the outside of the convent.
Now they came and made proclamation for public rejoicings. For imme
diately upon the defeat of the new Beg, they had sent the news to Vasili, who was
in Kamanitsa*, and he instantly mounted his horse. The report of his arrival was
now spread, and the people rejoiced at his approach. He entered Yassi on
Thursday, the eight-and-twentieth of Nisan. The Patriarch, attended by us,
passed to the convent of the Beg, to await his arrival. As soon as he approached,
we went to meet him outside the convent-gate, accompanied by the Heads of
the Monasteries and the Priests, in their robes, and the Deacons, with their
thuribles, two and two.
The Beg alighted from his horse; and he and the Patriarch, having made their
excuses and compliments to each other, entered the church. When the Beg
took possession of his chair, the Deacon came and incensed him ; and then said,
' Have mercy on us, O God, according to thy great mercy ! " &c. making
mention of the Beg, of the Khatman Zenobius, of Timotheus, and of the Domina.
Roxana. !e Peace to them for ever, and health, and safety ! " &c. Then they
came down to kiss the images ; and our Lord the Patriarch gave them his
benediction; and the Beg interchanged pardon with the Patriarch a second
time, in tears, saying, " What has befallen me, was for my sins." We then
went with him outside the convent ; when he mounted his horse, and passed on
to the Corta. In the mean time, the bells rang, as usual.
As soon as he entered the palace and sat on his throne, the whole of the
Cossack troops discharged their muskets ; and they fired the eleven great guns
which they had brought with them, as well as the other six, which they had
conquered from the new Beg : so that the town rose and fell with the explosion.
* Apparently, this is the strong frontier-town of Poland, Kamieneck on the Dniester.
See NE ALE'S Travels.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 81
SECT. XVII.
YASSI.—CONSECRA TION.
ON the Sunday of Divesture (.Is^l)* we went to tne Corta, to see the son of
Akhmil, when he came to the Beg to take leave of him : for they had come
to an agreement, that they should go together against the Beg of Wallachia.
The Beg made him a present of a sable pelisse ; and having mounted his horse,
with the drums and trumpets following him, he signed the cross upon his fore
head, and departed.
On Monday morning, our Lord the Patriarch went to bid farewell to the Beg ;
and requested his permission, that we might equip ourselves for our journey
northward. He refused ; and told the Patriarch to have patience, till he should
send him an answer. This he did out of fear on our account : for the whole
country of the Cossacks was in disorder, from the march of their own troops, and
of the army of the Tartars ; the Khan having this year agreed with Akhmil to
make war with the Poles. This was the cause of our detention, till the roads
should become safe.
On Tuesday, his son-in-law met the Moldavian troops ; which, since ancient
times, have always been rebellious to their sovereigns.
On Wednesday before Ascension Thursday, the Abbot of the Convent of
Galata invited our Lord the Patriarch to say mass there on the Festival of the
Ascension, as the convent had been dedicated under that name. We went
thither in consequence, and assisted at the ''Effiregivov, or Vespers ; and afterwards,
at break of day, we attended the "Ogtigov, or Prayers for the Dawn. At sun-rise
they rang the bells ; and our Lord the Patriarch said mass, and consecrated
( iyi Iffiigorovriffi) a Priest, in the presence of all the Heads of Convents, and of
all that were desirous to witness the ceremony. After mass, they presented
boiled meat, as usual ; and they all put their hands together over it ; and the
Patriarch said over it the Ev^v, or Prayer for the Souls of the Departed, com
memorating the first, Petrus Voivoda, who built the convent. It was noon
before we left the altar ; and they took us to the Refectory.
Here they served up a princely banquet, furnishing an abundant meal to high
and low. At the end of the feast, they drank a cup to the health of the Beg :
then to the health of Akhmil and his son ; and of the Patriarch of Jerusalem, as
the convent belongs to him.
M
8-2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
In the evening, we again attended Vespers ; and they presented a tray of
boiled meat and a vessel of wine. The Minister prayed over them, as did also
our Lord the Patriarch, in commemoration of those who built the convent : for
it is the custom with them, that the mass and banquet of the festival are in
memory of it ; but the second mass and banquet are in memory of the founders ;
as their bequests are left on this condition.
On Friday morning, after the Prayers of the Dawn, they rang the bells for
mass : and when we had entered the church, they set a tray of boiled meat, and
a vessel of wine, with two large silver candlesticks, upon a reading-desk orna
mented with a handsome fringed covering. The Patriarch took the thurible,
and incensed round it ; then he threw incense towards the doors of the Sanctuary
and the Beg's throne ; to the Chief Priests and Abbots, and the rest of the persons
present. The Deacon then said EyXoy^frov Aurora ; and our Lord the Patriarch,
? &c. &c. &c.
SECT. XVIII.
YA SSL— GARDENS.
WE saw, in the gardens of the Convent of Galata, the apricot-tree, and ate
of its fruit : also the almond-tree, entirely covered with fresh blossoms. The
cherry-tree, damascene or bird's-heart (jjjoll <*-Jj'X the quince, and the (^U^t)
plum, are very many in number in these countries, and particularly fine. In
these gardens are abundance of pinks and carnations, jessamines and lilies.
The yellow lily, called the Frank, or European, is found in all these regions, as
far as Moscow ; and is as common as grass, without any value. From Moldavia
and Wallachia to Moscow, most of the grass in the open fields is wormwood.
SECT. XIX.
YA SSL—DISCOMFITURE.
ON this day, news came to us, that Vasili Beg and his son-in-law were both
defeated, with their Cossack troops, and had fled. We had previously been in
security; as reports were brought us every day that they had beaten the
Hungarians and Wallachians four times, and made a great slaughter of them.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 83
Now, on the contrary, all the reports filled us with dread and consternation, and
the people again sought refuge in the convents.
At this moment returned the Cossack troops — fugitives, and beaten. At the
same time there appeared a report, that the Beg and his son-in-law were missing ;
until Tuesday before Pentecost, when they came on a sudden, and entered the
Corta, in the most wretched condition. They sent to inform Akhmil of what
had happened; and the report was now verified, of their having beaten the
Hungarians, and the troops of the Wallachians and Servians, four times.
None could stand before them ; till they approached within a day's march of
the city of Dorga'isht (Tergovist), which is the capital, and sovereign residence
of the Beg of Wallachia. Hereupon, Matthi Beg came out to meet them, with
an immense army of Wallachians, Hungarians, Servians, and Greeks ; Arnaouts,
Bulgarians, and Turks. Upon these fell the soldiers of Vasili the Greek, like
lions, and made their way to the prince's pavilion, which they plundered. They
shot Matthi Beg in the foot with a bullet, which also threw down the horse on
which he rode.
In this situation he defended himself with his sword, till the approach of
dark. He then took off1 his boot, which was sticking to his wound ; and instantly
mounted another horse, still defending himself from the attacks made upon him.
His whole army had now agreed to surrender themselves to the commands of
Vasili Beg and the Cossacks.
But Our Lord the Almighty, who is the changer of times, sent, at this moment,
a storm* of thunder and lightning, rain and large hail, which fell like stones
upon Vasili's troops and the Cossacks ; the wind being against them. And the
Moldavians again proved treacherous : for, having surrendered themselves, they
brought the Cossacks to an agreement not to fire their muskets during the heavy
rain. In the mean time, the Wallachians prepared their great guns, and, opening
a severe fire of artillery and musketry, made a sudden rush upon them. The
Moldavians were the first to run : the Cossacks followed, and were beaten in their
turn. The enemy pursued them, sword in hand, and made of them an immense
slaughter. It was an hour to be deplored. Nor did they cease to follow their
foot-steps for the space of three days' march, taking many of them alive, as
* The proximity of the Black Sea and of Mount Hsemus, by the Turks named the Balkan, on
one side, arid of the Carpathian Mountains on the other, render the climate of the Principalities
variable, and subject to sudden changes. During the summer, a great quantity of rain falls; and in the
months of June and July, it is always accompanied by storms of wind and thunder, which regularly
return every day, towards the evening.
S4 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
prisoners. Those who escaped by flight, came to Yassi ; and threw away their
arms, that they might not he observed.
Vasili Beg himself and his son-in-law made their escape, with a few followers;
and falling into the Galats road, they thence passed on to Yassi, by unfrequented
paths, in dread of a pursuit. Their defeat happened on the afternoon of Tuesday
before the Ascension. The news of it came to Yassi in three days. The dis
tance from the capital of Moldavia to that of Wallachia is, however, ten days'
march ; and the entrance of the Beg, as we said before, was on Tuesday before
the Ascension, in eight days.
The Cossack troops that survived the engagement, and escaped captivity,
remained in Yassi three days, and then departed for their own country; com
pelled by the great dearth of provisions which now took place : for they sold
them every large loaf, which they bought, at a piastre. Timotheus, Akhmil's
son, staid some time, and then went away to his father. He had been expect
ing that he would send him succours ; but he sent none, for he was angry
with him.
As for Vasili, he remained alone, without any person with him. Every hour
they were saying that his enemies were coming against him with an army, to
carry him off some night. His second error was worse than the first. Both he
and ourselves were in constant fears and alarms, both night and day. His
Domina, and son, and all his money and effects, he had sent for; and had them
brought from Poland, from Kamanitsa ; and lodged them in a fortified castle,
built of stone, in his own dominions, named Satjao. Therein he laid up a great
quantity of victuals and liquors, fearing what might happen : and what he feared
actually happened.
SECT. XX.
YA SSI.— WHITS UNTIDE.
FOR ourselves, we assisted at the mass of the Great Festival of the Pentecost,
in our own convent. At the conclusion of the Prayer, they spread for our Lord
the Patriarch a mat, within the Sanctuary, before the table ; and we vested him
in his '£lfAo<f)ogiov and 'Ei/nr^a^jjX/ov. Here he said the Prayer of Adoration, with
his face turned towards the people.
On Sunday of All Saints, our Lord the Patriarch received a visit and invita-
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 85
tion from the Abbot of the Monastery of St. John the Younger, commonly called
the Girl's Convent. It is on the road to Yassi, and is an appendage and feoff of
the Convent of St. Saba. We went therefore, and assisted at mass there; and
afterwards were conducted to the Refectory. It is a very delightful place : on
the outside of the building are balconies, which command a view of the whole
town ; the situation being high. The church is handsome : over the balconies
is the arch for the bells. With regard to this Confessor, John the Modern
(jo>s>!), or the Younger, we were informed, that, a hundred years ago, or a little
earlier, he died a martyr to the Christian Faith, in Trebizond. The Begs of
Moldavia sent and employed every artifice, till they succeeded in bringing him
to their capital ; and set him down in a part of the Convent of St. Saba, to see
where he would wish to be placed. Of his own accord, he went in the Prince's
carriage, where he lay, followed by the procession, to Satjao ; and there stopped.
Thereupon they built him a convent and church within the fort, and placed him
there, to be for ever preserved. The people of this country have entire faith in
him ; and resort, in pilgrimage, to his festival, on the Thursday after Pentecost,
from the remotest towns and villages. Afterwards, the daughter of one of the
Grandees built this beautiful convent in his name.
On the eve of the Feast of the Apostles, they rang the large bell for a lono-
time ; and decorated the churches, according to custom, witli flowers, sweet
herbs, and images.
I observed, at this season, that the iron clock struck, from the first of Nisan
onwards, fifteen hours by day, and nine by night. But in the months of Haziran
and Tamouz, it used to strike sixteen hours in the day, and eight at night.
I observed, also, that it is the common practice in this country for the girls
to have crowns twined for them of flowers and sweet herbs, which they place
upon their heads. Further on, towards Moscow, the married women also deco
rate themselves in this way.
About this time of the Feast of the Apostles, the new cucumbers come to per
fection : they are small, without (jb) phlegm. The plum, which is the bird's-
heart (^\ L^Jj'), resembles the nut in si/e ; is of various shapes and colours-
white, yellow, red, and russet ; and very delicious. The red cherry is rough to
the taste, but its flesh is plump and beautifully coloured.
We went to visit, in the Beg's palace, the church of the Beg ; which is very
handsome, and dedicated to St. George ; and also the church of the Domina,
dedicated to the same Saint. The apartments in which the Prince and his Lady
86 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
dwell are all built of bricks and tiles : their roofs are admirable, and were con
structed by Vasili himself. Near them is a beautiful hammam, or warm bath,
also erected by Vasili, all of marble : the water is carried to it. In the Beg's
garden we saw the sweet mulberry-tree, many apricot and almond-trees, and
small pomegranate-trees, growing in tubs ; also sweet-lemon-trees, growing in
the same manner.
SECT. XXL
YASSL— FINAL OVERTHROW.
AT this time, the report was ascertained, that Vasili's enemy, the new Beg, was
come to a village near the Hungarian frontier, in a very rugged country, near
the tops of the mountains, and in the midst of the glens; accompanied by Hun
garian and Wallachian troops. Here he employed himself in writing to the
people ; all of whom, in these parts, were attached to him.
Now the rumours and tumults were renewed, and we were surrounded on all
sides with confusion : to add to his distress, Vasili was wholly destitute of troops ;
the Moldavians all proving faithless to him. He sent to ask assistance of
the Tartars; but they would not help him. Driven to vexation, he began to
enroll new troops among the people of the town and country, appointing Cap
tains, or Yeuz-bashis, and lavishing upon them riches and pensions.
Shortly came the good news, that Akhmil had sent him some few thousand
Cossack soldiers : they arrived, and he distributed among them money and
clothing, and appointed them rations of meat and drink : for their quarters, he
set up tents for them round the town.
In the mean time, there came to Vasili Beg three robes of honour, and a Letter
of Confirmation, brought by Agas : the last of them came Cadiri Aga, one of the
Agas of the Treasury, with a robe, carried in his hands, and a Letter of Con
firmation. The Beg went out to meet him at the head of his Cossacks, and they
entered together in great procession. Immediately afterwards, the Beg prepared
to inarch on an expedition against his enemy.
As for us, and the convents, we were all employed, during this period, in
repeatedly performing Ua^Xr^ig and Matins, from close of night till dawn of
day, according to the Ritual of Matins for the Thursday of Penance, and the
Saturday of Six Lauds : but all this obtained no utility for us.
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. 87
At last, the Beg marched forth from Yassi, on Tuesday the fifth of Tamouz :
with him went out all the merchants and Greeks ; most of them out of their love
for him : they and the Cossacks together formed a body of about four thousand
men. Of the Moldavians, there were gathered to him about eleven thousand.
With these he marched against his enemy ; of whom his spies had brought word,
that he had not more than two or three thousand men with him.
During these nights came on thunder and lightning, and showers of hail and
rain, in such floods and vehemence, that we said, " Surely the hour is arisen ! "
A thunderbolt fell from the air upon the dome of the church belonging to the
monastery of St. Parasceve, which is in possession of the Monks of Mount Sina,
that immense dome of wood; and drove the top of it, with the cross, deep
into the ground. Another fell upon the vast stables attached to the palace ; and
a great many houses were burnt. The lightnings flashed like swords ; and there
appeared in the sky signs from the clouds, resembling forts and battles : all this
was an intimation of the second discomfiture of Vasili.
When the two armies were drawn up against each other in battle array ; and
the troops of Vasili were ready to beat their enemies with sticks, so few were
they in number, and not with the sword ; the latter braved them daringly, having
been forewarned of the intended treachery of the Moldavians ; who immediately
lowered their standards, and passed over to the new Beg, abandoning Vasili, and
breaking their faith towards him. Having agreed with the Hungarian, Walla-
chian, and Moldavian troops of the new Beg, they came and fell together upon
the Cossacks and Greeks, who remained with Vasili ; and, as they were so few,
instantly routed them, and cut them to pieces with the sword.
The £lite of Vasili's army were the Greek merchants, with their followers,
posted in the right wing, under the Khatman, Vasili's brother, and his sons.
When these saw, that, from being victorious, they were now changed into the
discomfited party, and were suffering destruction from the swords of their
enemies, they broke up their ranks, and took to flight. Their defeat happened
on Wednesday, the sixth of Tamouz, at noon.
All this turned out to our mishap ; and all our hopes were finally lost, as
depending upon Vasili and his Grandees. The presents which we had taken to
them, and which had cost us some hundreds of piastres, were now thrown away
to vanity and to no purpose. Vasili had promised our Lord the Patriarch to
pay all his debts and expenses ; and had made him agree to go northward, after
appointing an Ambassador to go with him to the Emperor of Moscow, and
88 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
engaging to furnish him with every thing requisite for the journey, as carriages,
horses, and such like. This he had told him both publicly and privately. From
the Grandees, also, we were in expectation of large sums : but now all was
utterly lost.
As for Vasili, he immediately fled on his swift horses, attended by a few fol
lowers ; leaving behind him his pavilion and tents, his stud, and riches, to the
grasp of his enemy ; as he had before abandoned them at his defeat in Wal-
lachia. He passed into the country of the Cossacks, and there reposed in
freedom from all his enemies and opponents. He sent forthwith to the fortress
called Satjao, where he had deposited his wife and son, his riches and treasures,
in safety ; giving orders, that they should endure with perseverance, and support
the war, till he came to their assistance with a large force.
The hapless merchants, and the rest of the Grecian army and Cossacks, took
to flight, in a direction where no refuge was to be found. They ran into the
very faces of their enemies ; and, blind with desperation, fell into a field sown
with wheat, which in these countries is usually deeper in mud than a tall man's
stature. Their horses' feet sunk herein ; and the enemy, at this moment falling
upon them, hewed them to pieces with their swords and lances. The merchants
had loaded their wealth, in specie of gold and silver, upon their horses ; thinking,
that if they should be defeated, they could save themselves and their property by
flight. But their precaution availed them not ; and they became a prey to the
treacherous mire, and the lance ; their property falling into the hands of their
relentless enemies. Their lot, indeed, was to be pitied and lamented. They
were sunk and buried in the mud, and crying out, " Who will come, and take
pity on us, and cut off our heads, that our souls may depart, and we may rest
from the grief and torment we are in ? There is gold in plenty to take from
our girdles." None however saved them, or assisted them.
The Khatman, brother of the Beg, who was an old man, sank, with his horse,
into the field, with them. At this moment the Hungarians came up, and wounded
him : his horse fell, and they laid hold of him, and made him prisoner. They
afterwards sent him to their country ; and he who had been a Sovereign, now be
came a captive slave. The same lot befell the remainder of Vasili's Grecian Nobles.
The sons of the Khatman, Stephanitsa and his companions, escaped, on their
swift horses, out of the hands of their enemies ; and, flying over the hills, rushed
down into a river, which they forded. On the other side, the road was open to
them, and they effected their escape into the country of the Cossacks.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
89
As for the Cossack troops, those among them who were active and present
in mind, and had good horses, fled to their own country, and were saved ; hut
those on foot, or whose horses were weak or disabled, all became victims of the
sword, and were slaughtered, to the mercy of God, by their enemies, the Hunga
rians. What else could be expected from these enemies of their religion, these
haters of the Cross and of the Gospel, whose name Calvin (^ju0i> Dogs, in
Greek KaX/3?>oc), and Lutheran, so well suits them ?
The Moldavians, also, were become very much the enemies of the Cossacks ;
and slew great numbers of them in their former defeat by the Wallachians,
though they passed from their country in thousands. So did they now ; for the
reason, that they had come to protect their enemy, Vasili ; against whom, even
those who had adhered to him from the first of his misfortunes until the present,
now turned adverse, and tempted him like Job, Eustathius, and their fellows.
At present he was cut off from all his kindred and friends ; even from his wife
and children, and from all his riches, as we shall soon have occasion to shew.
Soon after this, he was deprived also of his son-in-law, Akhmil's son, that brave
cavalier. Where was now, O Vasili ! your artful policy ? where your fervent
activity ? and where the abundance of your wealth ? You were now fallen off
from all ! True was the word of him, who said, " When Fate descends, blind is
the eye of caution :" and if Vasili had not been provided with excellent horses, he
would not have saved his life from the hands of his enemies. He escaped, how
ever, to the Cossacks; and took up his abode in the first town of their Govern
ment, called Ras/tko ; whence he sent to inform Akhmil and his son-in-law of
what had befallen him.
SECT. XXII.
YASSL— PILLAGE.
UPON us, all our sorrows and terrors were renewed : for the Hungarians
came immediately to Yassi, and pillaged every thing they could see without the
convents. We were seized with the utmost dread of them : at night we were
unable to sleep ; and during the day, were watchful inhabitants of the towers
above the domes.
As soon as Vasili's enemy, the new Beg, arrived at Yassi, he immediately
turned off to the fortress of Satjao, which he encompassed and besieged. He
N
90 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
also sent immediately some letters to our Lord the Patriarch, to tranquillize his
mind ; and appointed us a Mertek, or allowance of meat and drink, more abun
dant than that which we had in the time of Vasili. He acted in like manner to
the Aga of the Treasury. For the government of Yassi, and the other towns, he
sent Magistrates from his own attendants ; who now arrived, and sought to take
vengeance of their enemies, the Greeks.
These were reduced to the most deplorable condition ; for all their property
was taken from them, and every day they were exposed to every kind of insult.
They even stabbed them in the high streets and roads. Sometimes they cut off'
their ears ; and some they whipped publicly through the town. Upon all of
them fell the most intense dread ; and many of them were only rescued from the
hand of the executioner by the intercession of our Lord the Patriarch. The
Moslems and the Jews appeared in public, without any fear or apprehension ;
but the Greeks dared not to move from their houses, in consequence of the
great enmity between them and the natives.
For, as we before mentioned, the Greek Archons, who formed the Court of
Vasili, used all means to remove from office, and to depress the native Molda
vians to the lowest degree of abject wretchedness ; so that we had seen the
greatest and noblest man among them dressed in the meanest clothes of flannel.
In general, they were compelled to slave night and day, to have wherewithal to
fee the Greeks, who seemed to have sworn a league against them with the
Turks.
But the poor Merchants ; what was their crime ? In this country, but for
them, there would be no means of subsistence.
As to the Aga of the Treasury ; he also was in great fear, and had sent to
Constantinople information of what was passing.
On the eve of the Festival of St. Elias, they tolled the great bell, and we
assisted at the mass. They adorned the church, as we mentioned on a former
occasion, with flowers and sweet herbs, and brought in trays of fresh fruit-
melons, cucumbers, peaches, apples, plums, and cherries ; which they distributed
to the congregation, according to their practice in the fruit season.
Now came the Carnival preceding the Fast of Our Lady, on the eighth Sunday
after Pentecost ; and after the Evening Service, the Sexton (!OAJ JJill) tolled the
great bell, as before, for the Ua^x-^a-ig. This they did every night, from close
of day, during the whole Lent.
TRAVELS OF MAOARIUS.
SECT. XXIII.
MOLDAVIA*— SIEGE OF SATJAO.
ON the morning of the first Monday of the Fast, the Cossacks, under Timo-
theus, Akhmil's son, crossed the river Niestros, which is the boundary between
their country and Moldavia; and made a great slaughter of the Hungarian
and Moldavian troops, who were guarding the frontier. Then they marched on
to the fortress of Satjao, to succour the garrison ; and formed an encampment
round the walls of the castle ; introducing the river, which flows that way,
into the entrenchment. They had with them twenty pieces of cannon.
When the new Beg heard of their approach, he retired from the castle, till
they had entered ; and then returning, he beset the fort all round with his troops,
" In many respects, Moldavia may be regarded as one of the most interesting portions of Europe ;
not only as the latest of the Roman conquests, but as the favourite abode of the Hippernulgi, the
Patriarchal race celebrated by Homer for their length of days, purity of manners, and piety to the Gods.
a.'^cai' , x«< yavwv '
ifiicov re, 5<x«<or«Ta»t/ (*.v6pu>-nu>v,
" The circumstances in which the name of Moldavia originated, are very singular. The primaeval
Scythian inhabitants, like the Hindoos, believed in the incarnation of the Divinity, in the person of a
man named Xamolxis ; who, after having been a slave in Greece and Egypt, returned to his native land.
and hid himself for three years in a cavern, in the side of Mount Cogoeon. He attempted the civili
zation of his countrymen : and, as the most likely way to obtain their confidence in his supernatural
powers, he made them believe that he possessed eternal life, and was just raised from the dead. It was
the custom of the Scythian kings to retire to this holy mountain, to consult this eternal Priest or Molla:
and from this Patriarch the country was called Molla-div-ia, or the territory of the Immortal Molla.
'' The doctrines of Xamolxis were similar to those inculcated by Pythagoras — respect to the Gods,
abstinence from animal food, and a life devoted to the practice of deeds of virtue and patriotism. The
effects of this system were displayed in happiness and peace of mind, healthiness of body, great length
of days, and a virtuous fulfilment of the social duties. The Dacians, their successors, were, according
to the Roman Historians, the bravest defenders of their country ; and the Moldavians of the present
day possess greater virtues than fall to the lot of more-favoured nations. The fertility of their soil is
still as great as during the ages of their forefathers ; and health and longevity are still to be found
amongst the inhabitants of the Moldavian mountains.
" Travellers have been unanimous in extolling the beauties of this region. Baron de Tott compares
Moldavia to Burgundy, the finest province in France. Carra says, ' I have visited almost every country
in Europe, and have seen none, where the distribution of the plains, hills, and mountains, is so
admirable, both for agriculture and picturesque effect, as in Moldavia and Wallachia.' "
DR. NEALE'S Travels.
92 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
which, at this time, amounted to upwards of forty thousand men : the Cossacks
were only fourteen thousand.
On the afternoon of Sunday, the tenth after Pentecost, which was the eve of
the Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady, they tolled the great bell, and we
entered the church. At the time of chaunting the Ao'fa, or Glory, they sang,
alternately, in the two choirs, each ffrifcos or verse, with its proper modulation.
The next day, they presented, in the church, trays of fruit — grapes, peaches,
damascenes or the bird's-heart, cherries, and so forth. Having prayed over
them, the Priests distributed them among the assembly ; carrying about the trays
with their decorations of sweet herbs and flowers. The images were likewise
decorated with flowers and herbs.
On the twelfth Sunday after Pentecost, our Lord the Patriarch went to per
form mass in the church belonging to the convent of the Domina, by invitation
of the new Beg's Bostaniks (Postelnik), who took him to his house, and set
before him a most superb banquet ; for he loved us much : and in these days of
his power, how many Greeks did not our Lord the Patriarch save from death,
after they had communicated to them the holy mysteries, and taken them under
the gallows, and placed the rope round their necks, to haul them up, after they
had reviled them ! For in all the Christian countries, when they are about to put
any criminal to death, the Armash, that is, the Soubashi, or Criminal Judge,
with his attendants, bring him first to one of the churches ; whence a Priest
comes out and, having confessed him, gives him the mysteries : then they
take him and put him to death, at the place they have appointed; as we
ourselves sa\v.
On the eve of Thursday, which fell on the first of the month Iloul, the
opening of the year of the world, SEVEN THOUSAND ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-TWO,
they tolled the great bell for the Feast of St. Simon, the Stylite, the Aleppian ;
and on the morrow we did not go out from mass till noon, as usually happens on
the great festivals, for which they toll the large bells. This they always do in
Moldavia and Wallachia, on all the holidays, whereon is KaraXvtrig : and dine
0_j*-^*0 during the mass.
They observed the same ceremonies on the eighth of Iloul, the Feast of the
Nativity of Our Lady ; and, on the second day, the Feast of her parents. On
these days, they resorted in great crowds to the churches, and presented a
number of trays with fruit.
On the eve of the Festival of the Cross, they again tolled the great bell for
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 93
Matins. They did not draw up in a body round the cross, as we do ; but the
whole of the Priests assisted in placing it upon a china plate ; and then laid it on
a desk, and adored it, one after the other, after the same manner and ritual as
are observed on the Sunday of Images.
Regarding what befell ourselves ; we were confined as prisoners, all this time,
in Moldavia ; confused in mind, and straitened in spirit. These terrors, these
dreads and horrors, which rushed upon us, and were such as might turn the hair
of children gray, caused us grievous sicknesses and agues *, with hot and cold fits ;
which I, the poor Historian, laboured under from the end of Tamouz (July)
till the following Whitsuntide ; and suffered therefrom intense pains, during the
severity of the winter cold and frost. We had no power to move on our travels,
neither forwards to the country of the Cossacks, nor yet backwards ; for the
people of the provinces were all turned robbers and assassins, and murdered
every person on the road, whom they caught in his flight. Whole caravans of
Greek merchants, who fled together for safety, were sallied forth upon, and
murdered, and all their goods plundered.
Distress and doubt harassed us on all sides, and we knew not how long we
might still endure these daily and nightly alarms. In Vasili's time, from the
effect of his cruelty upon the inhabitants, the women carried gold about them,
and walked where they pleased, without fear. But now, even in the very midst
of the towns and cities was the scene of terror and apprehension.
SECT. XXIV.
MOLDAVIA.— SATJAO.
ON the side of the castle, the fights were continual between the Cossacks and
the army of the new Beg, for a length of time. Timotheus, Akhmil's son, would
sally forth upon them every day, and kill thousands of them. Not one had the
power to stand against him, so brave was he, and so excellent a horseman. He
was indeed and truly a valiant man, such as we have never seen recorded in
history, which gives no instance of force and valour like his. Every day he
* " The exhalations from the numerous marshes around Yassi render the inhabitants very unhealthy,
and cause, annually, a great mortality amongst them, from the severe intermittent and remittent fevers
of which they are the cause." — DR. NEALE'S Travels.
94 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
sallied forth from his quarters, upon a white horse which he delighted in much,
attended only by a few followers ; and killed and wounded the enemy, or put
them to flight. One day he killed, with his own hand, thirteen hundred Germans,
according to what was related of him by credible persons ; for before him they
crouched together, one upon the other. Sometimes he shot from his bow with
his right hand ; then he would turn it to his left : at one time he hewed and
stabbed with his sword ; then he would fire his musket ; till he had turned his
hands to all the instruments of war, with which he was accoutred even below his
horse's belly, and had killed all the enemies before him.
When the Aga of the Treasury went to the new Beg, whilst he was besieging
the castle, and took with him the Capiji Bashi, who was come from Constan
tinople to adjust the affairs of the country on the part of the Sultan, they were
vritnesses of these proceedings, and came away astonished at the skill in horse
manship, and bravery, of Timotheus. They used to call him (<oUiJj) Welishbaba *.
No one was able to hit him with his musket, or with any other weapon ;
for he was so powerful in the art of riding, that he crossed like the forked
lightning, on the back of his horse. What destruction he dealt among the Poles,
both great and small ! With his own hand alone, he killed some thousands of the
enemy, according to the statement made to us by his attendants ; who affirmed,
that about seven thousand in all had fallen under his slaughterous sword.
Every day were brought to Yassi, to the hospitals and convents, numerous
wagons filled with thousands of the wounded ; and round the castle the earth
was heaped with the dead bodies of the slain. The guns from the fort above,
and the artillery of the Cossacks below, cut off, at the same time, great numbers
of the besieging army, and continually routed and dispersed them.
SECT. XXV.
SA TJA O.— TIMOTHEUS.
AT last, one day, when Timotheus was sitting in his tent within the rampart,
drinking wine, he was struck on the leg by a cannon-ball, shot by his enemies
* I have not been able to discover the meaning of this Persian or Turkish word, of which I only
at the pronunciation.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 95
the Poles, who were come to the assistance of Stephani the new Beg, out of
hatred towards Akhmil and his son, and the nation of the Cossacks. Having got
a sight of him, they took deliberate aim, and hit him. The wound gave him
great pain; and, after some days, he died.
Henceforward the affairs of the Cossacks, both without and within the castle,
went to ruin, in consequence of the death of their Prince, or rather their guardian
lion ; and those of Vasili were become for ever irretrievable. His Domina, and
all about her, were now assailed with sorrow upon sorrow, where none remained
to assist or support her.
The interment of Timotheus took place, after they had taken out his entrails
and embalmed his body; which they laid in a coffin, covered inside and out with
velvet. The melancholy tidings were carried to his father, and to his father-in-
law, Vasili. Before he expired, the joyful message was brought him, that his
wife had given birth to twin boys. He did not, however, congratulate himself
upon the event, not having as yet completed a year from his marriage.
Timotheus had destroyed a convent of Armenians in the fortress of Satjao, and
killed the Priests and Monks belonging to it, and all the Armenians who had fled
thither for refuge. They were exceeding rich ; and he seized their goods, and
all their treasures, of gold and pearls and precious gems, to an immense amount.
The gold alone filled two barrels. Alas upon him, and his valour; and his
assurance to our Lord the Patriarch, when he came the first time into Moldavia,
that he was not come to take the throne of his father-in-law, but to deliver the
Great Church from the hands of its enemies ! so that the reader may understand
his words.
In the castle, great famine came now upon the Cossacks, and the merchants
and others who were collected there ; so that they were even reduced to feed
upon the flesh of their horses. On every side, calamity environed them; and no
succour reached them, either from Vasili or Akhmil.
Afterwards, from the severity of hunger, they sued to Stephani for peace ;
which he granted them, on his solemn oath ; and permitted them to return to their
own country in all safety and tranquillity, without interfering with them in any
thing. They took with them the coffin of their deceased Prince, their treasures,
and their cannon, and departed. Great mourning was made in the country of
the Cossacks for their lamented chief.
We ascertained, from persons on whose word confidence could be placed, that,
from the beginning of this revolution until now, there had perished by the sword,
QQ TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of Moldavians, Wallachians, Greeks, Hungarians, Servians, Arabs, and Turks,
about one hundred thousand men. The cause of all was this new Beg, who
now accepted the surrender of the castle, with all that was in it, on terms of peace.
He seized the whole property of Vasili, with all his hoards and treasures of gold
and silver, to an incalculable amount ; his armour, wardrobe, trinkets, sables,
pearls, and other valuables, more than have been collected by kings and emperors.
For when Vasili first moved his property from the fort Khotini to Kamanitsa,
there were with him some of our countrymen as his body-guards, who told us,
that, from the river-side, he transported it in one hundred wagons, each drawn
by twelve, or ten, or eight horses ; and that it was all gold and silver, and rarities.
He had a number of hoards under ground, of twenty years' formation, which he
now brought out ; and, among them, five-and-thirty sable dresses. Of one of
these, some of his personal attendants informed us, that he had made it for the
festival of Easter, all of gold brocade, adorned with pearls and gems of great
price ; and that he had expended upon it five-and-thirty thousand dinars *, or
ducats. All this was over and above the riches which he obtained, in various
ways, from the Boyars. This wealth is not to be wondered at, seeing that Vasili
had amassed it during four-and-twenty years, from collections which he made
wheresoever he went. lie has, besides, still remaining to him, considerable
treasures in Poland, Germany, Venice, and other places.
Stephani removed the Domina and her children, with all the Boyars and
Archons, from the castle : and though he had taken an oath not to treat them
ill, he behaved to them treacherously, and put most of them to death. The
Domina and her children he consigned to captivity in a small town, and placed
guards around her, to prevent any communication with her. Every thing that
was in the castle, he transported into Hungary ; having purchased there a castle,
with strong fortifications. To the troops he distributed their pay, and dismissed
them.
* ,lx>J or UiJ, according to Golius, means a coiti, particularly of gold; and still more particularly,
that which is commonly called a ducat. He derives it from the Arabic verb Jj, applied to express
splendor of brightness. It may, however, be the Roman word Denarius, the name of the silver coin,
which was at first equal in value to ten pounds of braes ; and at last used in the sense of com in general.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. XXVI.
FA SILL — TARTARS.
Is regard to what passed on the side of Vasili and Akhmil :— As soon as they
heard what had befallen Timotheus, and were apprised of the straits to which
the Cossacks, with all that were besieged within the castle, were reduced, Akhmil
equipped, for the support of Vasili, forty thousand men of his own Cossacks ;
and obtained an addition of eight-and-twenty thousand from the Tartars. For
the Sultan of Tartary, that is, the Vazir Alkhan, whose name is Sheriff? eg, was
an ally of Vasili ; the Domina of the latter being a Circassian, and Sherif Beg
having married her sister. He went also himself, in person, to the assistance of
Vasili : for the Tartars this year had formed a league with Akhmil.
After they had marched in a body over a part of Moldavia, and had arrived
at the river Pruth, which is about fourteen hours distant from Yassi, they met
the army of the Cossacks which was returning from the castle, and were
informed of its capture : immediately they turned their backs, and began to re
trace their steps; " for," said they, " Vasili promised us our pay : his treasures
are taken : whence remains to him the power now of giving it us .'" They
returned therefore,, immediately, by the road they came.
In the mean time, the news was brought of their arrival, before they had
begun their march back ; and all the people of the towns fled from fear of them,
and retreated into the deserts and mountains. In Yassi, not an inhabitant
remained ; but all set out on their way to Galats : and there prevailed, more and
more,, such alarms and terrors, as to exceed all description. Even the convents
were abandoned; and we were reduced to the necessity of taking to the road.
with the rest of the people ; not knowing what might become of us, nor how
long our distresses were likely to last.
Our Lord the Patriarch had sent, a first time, to solicit the Beg, that he would
expedite his journey to the north : but the Beg would not suffer him to travel
that way, for fear he should be ill used by the Hungarian troops, who were
guarding the frontier of Moldavia, and be exposed to the temerity of the
Cossacks and Tartars on that side. A second time, he requested to go to
Wallachia : the Beg told him to have patience, till he could have a meeting
with his Holiness, and had a mass performed for him by his offices. " I will
O
98 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
then," said lie, " dismiss you on your travels, in such a manner as becomes your
Holiness; and, if it please God, will render you all the services which you were
expecting at the hands of Vasili." Messages and letters to this effect were con
tinually coming from him.
In the mean time, all the provisions which had been stored in the monasteries
were entirely consumed; excepting only what had been laid up in our convent
of St. Saba, on account of its being the dwelling-place of our Lord the Patriarch.
For this reason, and under these circumstances, the whole of the merchants
quitted all the other convents, and came to us ; until now, when the entire popu
lation began to leave the town. To depart with them became necessary, also,
for us ; and the Patriarch sent to request the Beg's permission. This he, at
length, granted to us in writing, with much difficulty; and sent us, at the same
time, a letter for Matthi Beg of Wallachia, whom he called his father. He fur
nished us, also, our expenses for the road ; but in a manner suitable to the
excessive avariciousness of his character.
The hire of every Arabah, or post-carriage, now came to a piastre or two
piastres each stage ; and the posting to Galats, which is only half-way between
Yassi and Wallachia, amounted to five-and-twenty piastres, after being only three
or four. It was with great difficulty that we found three or four carriages to
hire ; and set out from Yassi, on Thursday, the thirteenth of Teshrin the first.
SECT. XXVII.
MOLD A VIA.— ROMAN.
WK passed through Skentai, Vasiludi, and Birlal. Here we separated from
the road to Galats ; and suffered fears and alarms, such as God only knows. We
came to a market-town, the name of which is Tekoutsli ; and thence crossed
the broad and navigable river Serclit, on which we saw some ships.
On Thursday, the twenty-first of Teshrin Alavval, we came to Fokshun
(Fokshani). All these towns and villages were deserted, the population having
fled to the mountains and deserts ; and the roads were exceeding1 dangerous.
O O
This Fokshan is a large town : in the midst of it is a small river : it is the last
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 90
place on the frontier of Moldavia. Across the river is the first of the Walhi-
chian territory.
In Fokshan we staid one-and-thirty days, and there performed the Fast of the
Nativity. The reason of our delay was this : the report reached the Beg, that
Yassi was deserted, even hy the Monks and Presidents of the monasteries. In
excessive anger, particularly against the latter, he instantly sent orders to the
frontier, at Galats, and also at Fokshan, that when the Patriarch of Antioch
came to them, they should permit him to pass with his attendants, and afford
him every facility for his journey ; but not so the strangers who accompanied
him.
In this posture of affairs, it became necessary for the Patriarch to go to him
at the town of Romanus (Roma?i), which is also a residence of the Begs : for
he had never met him, nor seen him yet ; and he wished to do so now, for the
sake of the crowds of strangers who followed us.
We therefore repaired to his residence, and took to him, for our fourth pre
sent, a pair of Jatma cloaks*; a vessel of myron, or aromatic oil ; and soap of
two kinds.
After the mass on the Festival of St. Michael, the Beg gave an entertainment
to the Patriarch. Here we attended, also, the Feast of the Chrysostom : on
which day they met in large congregations, and the Bishop of the See robed
himself in the <£>sXuviov of John the Chrysostom f, as it is his custom to do every
year, on the day of his festival. This robe was sent by one of the Patriarchs of
Constantinople as a present to Stephani Voivoda the Elder (^Jsi!!), who gave it
{'or an inheritance to the said bishopric, to be preserved in the great Monastery
of the Parasceve.
In Moldavia there is one Metropolitan, who has under him three Bishops
only in that country. One is the Bishop of Romanus. The second is the
Bishop of the district called Hosli ; and the third, the Bishop of Ozhnni and its
district. He has under him, also, two other Bishops, in the country of the Hun
garians, or Majars. Subject to these Bishops are eight hundred priests.
With reference to the Saint's name, John, I learnt, that in the countr of the
*The words are loLa^ J^s"0 ;^>- . If Jvs"° should be written Ls-55, it means a short garment ; tmt
of what kind it is to he interpreted, I know not ; nor am I acquainted with the following article of the
Present, JuOu* M U*i.J.
- J j
f Here follow the words ,_£ yLloo Jy, apparently intended for Greek. Their meaning I have not
been able to conjecture.
100 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Nemsahs, or Germans, there is a large town, called Ivunopotis, (that is, the City
of John,) which is in possession of the identical body of John El Rahoum*.
The circumference of IVIoldavia is eight hundred miles, and its size equal to
that of the island of Cyprus. Its population f is innumerable ; although the
Tartars are continually making incursions into it, and carrying off its inha
bitants. In the time of Vasili, but some five years before he assumed the
government, they came on a sudden, and carried away about seventy-five thou
sand souls.
W e returned, by an extremely difficult road, from Ilomanus to Fokshan :
and departed hence, on Monday the twenty-second of Teshrin Essani, to enter
the territory of Wallachia.
The text is pj*.J\ lx=*y_ . I do not recollect having seen any Saint designed by such a title, in any
History or Martyrology.
| " The villages throughout the country are principally composed of peasants' huts, all built in the
same style and of the same si/e. Tin: walls are of clay, and the roofs thatched with straw ; neither of
which are calculated to protect the lodgers from the inclemency of the bad seasons. The irround-floors
are, however, occupied as long as the weather will permit ; and in winter they retire to cells under ground,
easily kept warm by means of a little fire made of dried dung and some branches of trees ; which at
the same time serves for cooking their scanty food. Each family, however numerous, sleeps in one of
these subterraneous habitations; men, women, and children, all heaped together; and their respective
beds consist of one piece of coarse woollen cloth, which serves in the double capacity of matrass and
covering. Notwithstanding their wretched mode of life, and the supposed influence of an ungenial
climate, the generality of the peasants are a fine race of people. They have no peculiar turn of features
which may be called characteristic : from long intercourse with foreign nations, their blood seems to
iiave become a mixture; of many. The Eastern black eye and dark hair, the Russian blue; eye and
light hair, the Greek and Roman nose, and those features which distinguish the Tartars, are equally
common amongst all the orders of this nation.
" The miseries of famine in Transylvania sometimes cause considerable emigrations of peasants from
that vast province, into Wallachia and Moldavia. All the best lands in Transylvania being in the
hands of Hungarians, Szecklers, and Saxons, the others, who form the bulk of the population, are driven
into hilly and barren situations, where, at all times, they subsist with difficulty; and of late years, the
more than ordinary scarcity that prevailed has driven about twenty thousand peasants, subjects of the
Emperor, into the dominions of the Hospodars, where the great disproportion between the number of
agricultural hands and the extent of arable land renders such emigrations extremely useful."
WILKINSON'S Account of Wallachia and Moldavia.
ADDITIONAL NOTES
PART THE FIRST.
P. 5. " We assisted at the \\ypv-7rvla" or Vigils.]—" By the practice of the Greek Church, as
observed in Russia at present, both in Monasteries and Parish Churches, they have service
only three times a-day ; theVespers, the Matins, and the Liturgy or Communion. The service
of every day, whether it has a Vigil or not, begins in the evening of the preceding day,
as among the Jews, and for the same reason as they give ; because it is said, in the Mosaic
account of the Creation, " The evening and the morning were the first day." — Dr. Kings
Ceremonies of the Greek Church.
P. 5. " At the time of the EiVo5o? "] — E«roSos, Entrance, or Introit. There are two Introits ;
the one, when the elements for the Communion are carried from the prothesis, or by-altar,
into the church, and so into the altar, at the royal doors, to be set upon the holy table :
this is called the Great Introit. The other, called the Little Introit, is when the Gospel is
carried from the altar into the church, to be read.
P. 0. " The Patriarch in the Mandya (MavJua)" J — The Mandya is a sort of large cloak or
gown, usually made of black stuff.
P. 10. " They mentioned in the proclamation" or Exclamation.] — Exclamation is a sort of
doxology at the end of several prayers ; for the most part pronounced by the priest, who
then raises his voice to be heard by the whole congregation.
•/ O O
P. 10. " They begin with the Kavcov first."] — A Canon is a series of nine Hymns; but the
second Hymn is always omitted : it contains the denunciation of God's anger against the
Israelites ; and of these second Hymns, the Canons for the Great Fast are composed.
P. 11. " Go into the sanctuary to take the 'Ai/r/Sajpa."] — The Antidora, or Remunerations, con
sisted of the consecrated loaves which were presented at the Offertory : these were given
to the people, instead of the holy gifts, i.e. the elements: probably also, in former times, other
provisions which had been presented were there shared among and eaten by the people.
The present practice is, to distribute the antidora after the dismission.
P. 11. "He performed the ceremony of the 'Ayiaa/moq," or sanctification of water.] — There
are two offices for the Benediction or Sanctification of the Water, in the Greek Church.
Culled, in the EuchologlOn, 'AxoAoi/0/« rov pixpov dyiw.crfj.ov, and 'AxoAot/0/a TOV fj.eyu.hov dyiacr/j,ou,
The office of the lesser sanctification, and, The office of the great sanctification. The first may be
P
102 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
performed at any time, when there is a want of holy water for baptism, or any other use of
the church. The second, the great sanctification, is celebrated in memory of the baptism
of Christ; by which the Greeks believe that the nature of all waters is sanctified; and that
such virtue remains in them after this ceremony, that those taken in the night, when this
service is performed in the church, will remain uncorrupted for years, and be as fresh as
water immediately taken from the spring or river. — Dr. King.
P. 15. " The K«0<V/x«T« of the Psalms."] — The Booh of Psalms is divided into twenty portions,
called cathisms or sessions : one of these is read at a service, so that the whole is read through
in a week ; besides a great many others which arc constantly used as Hymns, in the same
manner as the Venitc, exultemus Domino, the Jubilate Deo, &c., in the services of the Church
of England. Every cathism is divided into three parts, called OT«<TE/S, stations; at which the
Gloria Patri is said, and Allelujah three times, with the reverences. One would imagine
from these words, that, according to their original meaning, it was the custom to sit while
the cathisms were said, and to stand up when the doxology was suno-. There are also
Hymns in the service, called scssoria, or scdilia, as well as the frequent exhortations of the
Deacon, So^/«, '0,o0o/, Wisdom, Stand up ; all which seem to suppose the people to be seated
at particular times, and not seated at others; though the congregation never sits at present.
P. 15. " Their hlerdvoias" (Inclinations).] — The congregation join in the service, by crossing
themselves, and bowing, when the Kvpis iAivvov, that is, "Gospodi pomilui," or " Lord have
mercy upon us," is repeated ; and at the beginning and end of each prayer. They cross
themselves on the forehead first, then on the breast, then on the right shoulder, and then
on the left, thereby making the sign of the cross ; and with the thumb, the first, and the
middle finger bent together, by the three fingers signify the Trinity. These are called the
inclinations or reverences : the great inclinations, or reverences, are made by prostrating them
selves so low as to beat their forehead against the ground.
P. 15. " May your years be many!'"'] — UoAA« T« srn — Multi sint anni ! is a short concluding
ejaculation, imploring many years of happiness for the Sovereign, the Imperial Family, &c.
P. 16. " After the "Optipov (Matins')."] — The several services, according to the Monkish in
stitution, are, 1°. The Vespers, which used to be celebrated a little before sun-set. 2°. The
After-vespers, which answer to the Complctorium or Complines of the Latin Church, and used to
be celebrated before the Monks had supped, before they retired to bed. 3°. The Meso-
nyction, or midnight-service, at midnight. 4°. The Matins, at break of day, or twilight : in
the Latin Church there are also Lauds. 5°. The first hour of prayer, or Prima, at sun- rise.
6°. The third hour, or Tcrtia, at the third hour of the day. 7°. The sixth hour, or Sexta, at
noon. 8°. The ninth hour, or Nona, in the afternoon, at the ninth hour of the day. These
are called the Canonical Hours. The After-vespers were not added till a late period; before
which, the reason for the number of services being seven, was because David says, " Seven
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 103
times a-day will I praise thee." However, not contented with even eight, the service was
performed twelve times in the day and night : for there is a service called '^Isywotov, or the
Mid-hour, which was celebrated between the canonical hours.
P. 17. " 2o0/« ( Wisdom)"] — Xo<^«, and Zo^<«, 6p0oi: Wisdom, and Wisdom, stand up; are
exclamations very frequently used in the service; and are designed to excite the attention of
the people to some important ceremony then to be performed, or to give ear to something-
then to be read : for which reason it is always repeated before the Gospel, the Introits, &c.
P. 18. "As to the ElxcovoffraffK;."] — The Ikonostas is the screen which separates the altar,
prothesis, and vestry, from the church, and on which the holy pictures are painted or hung.
The idea of this separation seems to have come from the sanctum sanctorum of the Jewish
Temple : it is considered as the most sacred part of the church, into which the priesthood
only is permitted to enter : there are even express canons to prohibit women going into
them. This screen has three doors, the middle one of which is called the royal door. On
the north side of the royal door the picture of the Virgin is always placed, and that of
Jesus on the south; next to which is that of the Saint to whom the church is dedicated:
the situation of the rest is indifferent. Candles or lamps are usually suspended before
the images of Jesus and the Virgin and several others, and sometimes kept perpetually
burning.
P. 18. "A vest resembling the <bs\uvtov,"] — The Phclonion is said to have taken its name,
and, some would have it, its fashion too, from St. Paul's cloak, which he calls ^>«<AOV»K,
phacloncs, (alitcr <pai^6\^, penula;) though interpreters are not well agreed whether that word
signifies a garment, or a kind of scrip or bag to put papers in. This vestment is made
without sleeves, and falls round the body like a petticoat, except when the priest has
occasion to use his hands : it is then gathered up before him, with buttons and loops. It is
of the richest silk or velvet, embroidered with gold or silver.
P. 18. ''Above the altar, or place of sacrifice"] — The holy table has four small columns, to
support a canopy over it; from which u peristcrion, or dove, is suspended, as a symbol of the
Holy Ghost: upon the holy table the cross is always laid, and the Gospel, and the pyxis or
box, in which a part of the consecrated elements is preserved, for visiting the sick or other
purposes. The word altar is used to signify all that space within the ikonostas where the
holy table stands, never for the holy table itself.
P. 19. "The "A/x/3cyi/, or pulpit."] — The Ambon is the place where the officiating Minister
stands, at particular parts of the service : it is commonly elevated by two or three steps ;
and any platform so raised is called an ambon, from a/i/3«<W, to ascend.
P. 22. " The Mosque of the late Sultan Ahmed."] — " The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet is of a
magnificent exterior. The founder is said to have expended three aspers upon every
101 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
stone of the edifice, and to have employed his imperial hands upon the work for one hour
every Friday. The court which ranges along one side of the At Meidan is shaded with
trees, and provided with handsome fountains for the ablutions of the Moslems. The six
minarets (a number with which no other mosque is furnished) are tall, for the building ;
but their distant appearance is imposing and agreeable. You ascend, by a flight of thirteen
marble steps, into a fine vestibule or ambulatory, paved also with marble, and surrounded
with an arched cloister of granite colonnades. The interior is surmounted by a dome,
much smaller than that of St. Sophia, supported by four gigantic piers. The windows of
stained glass are a rich and suitable ornament to the building." — Hobhouses Journey to
Constantinople.
P. #•!<. " Then we came and entered the Seraglio"] — " The Seraglio occupies the whole site of
what was once Byzantium, and is built at the north-east point of the city. It is protected,
on all sides, by strong walls and towers, while two of its sides are additionally defended by
the waters of the Strait ; which here encircle, indeed, one of the most luxuriant and
glittering gardens of pleasure imagination could paint ; golden palaces and variegated
kiosks rising, as if in fairy-land, amidst rows of dark cypresses and bending willows." — Sir
Robert Ker Porter's Travels.
P. 24. " The third Tchelli Dash.''} — Now called the Burnt Pillar. Its first appearance, says
Sir Robert K. Porter, struck me with a disagreeable impression, from the shape of its
pedestal, which looks like the bottom of a water-decanter ; a form very different from the
usual grace and proportion of Grecian relics of the kind : and, on inquiry, I found this
preposterous base to so noble a shaft had been the work of the Turks ; who had thus dis
graced themselves, by deforming one of the finest monuments in their Capital, in the
alteration they made of its original shape. The column, which rises from it, is of red
porphyry, and divided into successive parts, now numbering six. The five lower ones are
each of one solid piece, distinguished from each other by thick projecting wreaths of closely-
woven ivy, the sculpture of which is admirable. The upper division is white, and raised in
courses of marble ; round the second of which a Greek Inscription is visible ; but at so great
a height it seemed scarcely possible to read it. According to Gibbon, this beautiful pillar
does not now stand at half its original elevation : he describes its pedestal as twenty feet
high. " The column," he adds, " was composed of pieces of porphyry, each ten feet in
height, and thirty-three in circumference. On the summit of all stood a colossal statue of
Apollo. It was of bronze, and attributed to Phidias." By this computation, its original
elevation from the base of the pedestal must have been 120 feet. What at present remains
of the porphyry shaft, rises to a height of fifty feet. Its white marble addition appears of
more modern date; but at what period it may have replaced the last five stages of por
phyry, I do not pretend to say ; though it is not improbable, that, after the terrible earth
quake which occurred at Constantinople, A.D. 1150, when, we understand, that Manuel
Comnenus repaired this column, he might apply the prodigious iron braces which
ADDITIONAL NOTES. JOo
strengthen it ; and also raise the marble superstructure from the point where it is likely the
column may have broken off during the convulsion of the elements, overturning itself, with
the famous statue of Apollo on its summit ; to which later ages had given the mortal name
of Constantino. The situation of this magnificent relic of antiquity is said to mark the
center of the ancient Forum, on one of the seven hills of the ancient city.
P. 21. " The Avrct Bazaar, or the Woman Market"^ — A district so called, from being the
situation in which the Yesir Khan, or Slave Hall, formerly stood. The edifice now appro
priated to the horrid trafh'e in slaves, " where the loveliest women are bought and sold like
cattle," is in a different part of the city : and as it is permitted to be entered by no Frank
travellers, but those of the Medical Profession, and rarely by any of them, T will subjoin the
account of it, which my friend Mr. Madden, whom I had the pleasure to meet in Egypt, was
enabled to give, by a professional visit.
:i The slave-bazaar is a large quadrangular court-yard; with a shed running along a range of
narrow cells on the ground-floor; and a gallery overhead, which goes round the building:
on the second stage there are chambers likewise, but these are reserved for the Greeks and
Georgians. Below are the black women of Darfur and Sennaar, and the copper-coloured
beauties of Abyssinia. The latter are remarkable for the symmetry of their forms as well
as features: they commonly sell for one hundred and fifty dollars (301.), while the black
women seldom fetch more than eighty dollars (161.) The poor Greek women are huddled
together : I saw seven or eight in one dungeon, stretched on the floor, some dressed in the
remnants of former finery, some half naked : some were from Scio, and others from
Ipsara : they had nothing in common, but despair ; all of them looked pale and sickly ; and
all appeared to be pining after the homes they were never to see again, and the friends
they were never more to meet. Sickness and sorrow had impaired their looks ; but still
they were spectres of beauty, and the melancholy stillness of their apartment was sadly
contrasted with the roars of merriment which proceeded from the cells of the negro
women. No scene of human wretchedness can equal this : the girl who might have
adorned her native village— whose innocence, perhaps, had been the only care of a doating
mother— whose playfulness, perhaps, had been the only solace of a fond father, and whose
beauty might have been the theme of many a village rival— was here subjected to the
caprice of every licentious purchaser, who chose to thrust his hand into her bosom to
ascertain her condition, £c." — Maddens Letters from Turkey.
P. 31. " Yedi Kutlch, or the Seven Toivers."}—" The prison of the Seven Towers, an edifice
where misery alone awaits its inmates. This gloomy castle is evidently a remnant of the
original fortifications of the city. When I say original, I do not mean that the whole is of
the age of Constantine ; but as the science of war underwent so few material changes,
O
until the invention of gunpowder, the style of fortifying places necessarily remained in
much the same stationary state: therefore 1 do not conceive that the old mural defences
of this city, so easily traceable round its whole extent, differ in scarcely any respect from
106 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
the plan of their first founder. This prison forms the south-west angle of the town ; and
its walls and towers present a very distinguished object from a distance, being considerably
higher than the general line of fortification.— Sir Robert Ker Porter.
P. S3. " JBosphorus."] — "The banks of this 'enchanted current' are still, as in the
days of Europa, covered with flowers, and arc the resort of beautiful nymphs ; for the
villas of all the richest inhabitants of Constantinople extend for miles along the water's
edge, affording the most delicious retreats from the tainted atmosphere of those
bazaars and bezestens, in which the jewellers and merchants carry on their daily traffic." —
Dr. Ncale's Travels.
P. 33. " This BoghaZ) or throat of the Black Sea."} — In our progress up the Bosphorus,
writes Sir R. K. Porter, the European side displayed an almost uninterrupted chain of
buildings, stretching to within a few miles of the Black Sea. They were interspersed with
palaces belonging to the Sultan, others the property of a sister of the late sovereign, and
various costly mansions, the summer residences of opulent persons, both Turks and
Christians. These country-houses of the monarch are usually white, gaily painted in
arabesque, heightened with gold. Those of his Ottoman subjects are generally of a dusky
red ; while the Armenians, however wealthy they may be, are obliged to live within gloomy
walls, black as coffins. The fine verdant back-grounds, giving relief to these variegated
edifices, present terraced gardens rising even to the very tops of the hills ; whose grace
fully undulating line, thus clothed in fruits and flowers, breaks occasionally into beautiful
little vales, then, swelling again, runs on till it joins the romantic wildness of the Cyanean
rocks. Still, when you compare the European shore with the diversified beauty and
grandeur of the Asiatic coast, it becomes tame and monotonous. There you see hills and
forests, rocks and fortresses ; some near the water's edge, others at a distance, crowning the
boldest heights. In some parts we descried groves and villages ; in others, palaces also
of the Grand Signor, vineyards and gardens. Beyond, stretch the more mountainous hills ;
and of the highest is pointed out, by name, the Giant's Bed ; no doubt the Bed of Hercules,
of Classic writers. Lower down you see successive ancient sites of renown, mingled with
other old, though comparatively modern, foundations. One, towards the mouth of the
Canal, is very striking, being the ruins of a Genoese fortress ; the style of its military archi
tecture shewing its date amongst the Greek Emperors. At that time it must have formed
an impregnable defence ; but since the introduction of gunpowder, these walls and towers
having proved of little use, works more suitable to the present system of warfare have
been constructed near it. These two fortifications, ancient and modern, are answered, on
the European side, by castles, supposed to stand on the same ground which had sustained
the Temple of Jupiter Serapis ; while the Genoese fortress on the Asiatic bank is said to
cover the remains of the corresponding Temple of Jupiter Urius.
P. 37. " On board a Ca'ik."] — "In all excursions around this city, the stranger can
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 107
avail himself of the beautiful pyramidias or wherries, which, to the number of 6000,
cover the harbour of the Bosphorus, and ply for fares like the gondolas of Venice.
These boats, which in form and lightness resemble the Indian canoes, being pointed at
both extremities, are beautifully carved, and richly gilt : the keels are sharp; and they are so
narrow in their beams, that you are obliged to recline in the 'stern sheets' to prevent their
upsetting. The handles of the oars are shaped like skittles, and heavy enough to balance
the other extremities: they ply upon a single thole with a grummet; and the boatmen use
them so dexterously, that 1 have frequently been rowed from Pera to Terapia, a distance of
ten miles, against the current, within the hour. The sailing-boats, called Kerlanyuishcs, or
Swallows, flit along the surface of the water almost with the rapidity of the birds whose
name they bear. It was in such boats that, formerly, the Cossacks of the Don and Dnieper
used to cross the Black Sea, plundering the villages on the banks of the Bosphorus. and
insulting even the Capital. One instance of this kind occurred in 1623, during the reign
of Murad the Fourth; when these pirates arrived in a little fleet of one hundred and fifty
boats ; and not meeting any effectual resistance, continued their depredations for several
days. It was to prevent a repetition of such aggressions, that the Grand Signer first
ordered two castles to be constructed at the mouth of the Black Sea, against which the
Ambassador of Poland protested, as an act contrary to the capitulations of peace then
concluded." — Dr. Neales Travels.
P. 40. " Robed in his 'E7r<T,o«^>yA<oi/."] — The Epitrachdion is a tippet, which the priest wears
over his neck, whence it has its name. It is always joined together, having a place to put
his head through. It is generally made of brocade, or rich silk: and the priest is obliged to
wear it whenever he performs any office of the church.
P. 40. "And /«£ 'Q/xo^opioi/."]— .The Omophorion was formerly made of sheep's wool; and
is mystical of the lost sheep, i. e. human-nature, which Christ the Good Shepherd sought and
bore on his shoulders, for which reason it is so worn. Instead of being of sheep's wool, it
is at present made of silk, or any other materials.
P. 44. " Monfts of the c'Av<ov "Opo?, or Holy Mountain:']— Mount Athos, a high mountain in
Macedonia, near the Gulph of Contessa : there is a ridge of mountains, called "Ayiov "Opog, or
Monte Santo, on which stand four-and-twenty Monasteries of Greek Monks, who are reckoned
not less than four thousand in number. This is the mountain which the celebrated Mace
donian architect, Dimocrates, proposed to Alexander the Great to cut into the figure of a
man, holding in one hand a city, and in the other a basin to receive all its rivers in their
course to the sea.
P. 44. " They rang the brazen bells."]— Bells are now always used in Russia, and the chiming
them is looked upon as essential to the service : the length of the time of chiming signifies
to the public the degree of sanctity in the day : every church, therefore, is furnished with
108 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
them. Thev are fastened immoveably to the beams that support them, and are rung by
a rope tied to the clapper; which is, perhaps, a mark of their antiquity in that country; our
method of ringing being more artificial. Bells are supposed to have been invented at
Nola in Campania, whence they are called, in Latin, Nola-, and Company. They were not
introduced into the Church till the ninth century. In the Russian Church there is a
ceremony of consecrating and baptizing them ; which seems to have come from the West,
having been first used by John XIII., who christened the great bell of the Lateran church
by his own name. As the same custom of christening bells prevailed in England before
the Reformation, so the Tom of Christ Church, Oxford, and the Tom of Lincoln, still retain
their names. Before the invention and use of bells, there were many different methods of
giving public signals for calling the people to church ; sometimes by the sound of a trumpet,
which was used by the Egyptian Monks ; in other places, a Monk went round to give notice
to the rest: but the most common way seems to have been by sounding instruments of wood,
as they are called by Bona (De Reb. Liturg.j; which I take to have been no other than
boards, against which a man struck with a mallet or hammer, as is still the custom in most
churches in Greece: and in Russia, the watchmen use these boards to strike the hours of
the night, instead of calling them. — Dr. Kings Ceremonies of the Greek Church.
P. 46. " The domain of the Beg of Moldavia"}— " The Principality of Moldavia, with that of
Wallachia, commonly called the Two Principalities, composed the greatest part of the
ancient Dacia. Bounded to the northward by the Austrian provinces of Temeswar, Tran
sylvania, and Bukovina, and from the Russian empire by the river Pruth, they are separated
by the Danube from the wholly Turkish government of Bulgaria. The Dacians, originally
a Scythian people, were a simple and warlike race, living and fighting under their native
Princes, till finally subdued to the Roman arms by the Emperor Trajan. That conqueror,
instead of demolishing cities, enlarged and augmented them ; increasing the population of
the country by colonies from the West, who brought the arts of Rome to the new dominions
of its emperor. Towards the end of the fourth century, this province embraced the
Christian religion, and almost ever since it has been the leading faith of its people. In the
thirteenth century the then existing independent Princes of Wallachia and Moldavia
assumed the Slavonic title of Voivode, which means Sovereign Prince ; but in the middle
of the fifteenth century, the former submitted to the conquering arms of Mahomed II., and
became tributary to the Turks ; and about a hundred years afterwards, Moldavia allowed
the interference of the Porte in its concerns, under the reign of Soleiman I., to whom the
Boyars made a merit of necessity, and sought his protection by way of avoiding his attacks.
Both countries, however, continued generally to be governed by their native lords, till the
close of the seventeenth century." — Sir Robert Ker Porter.
" La Moldavie a pour ses confins du coste d'Orient le Pont-Euxin, autrement dit la mer
Majeur ou Noire ; du coste d'Occident elle est bornee de la Transsilvanie, et des nionts
Carpetens ; au midy elle est separee de la Valachie par la riviere de Sirette : et du coste
de Septentrion la Moldavie est distinguee de la Podolie, par le fleuve de Niestre. Et se
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 10!)
trouvc que tout ce pays conticnt environ six vingts lieue's Francoises de longueur, et cent
dix lieues de largeur. II y a une autre riviere appellee la Prute, qui divise la Moldavie en
deux parties presquc esgalles, dont le coste (jui tend vers le Septentrion s'appelle la haute,
et celuy qui est plus Meridional, est dit la basse Moldavie, qui sont comme deux provinces,
ausquelles le Prince a de coustume de mettre deux Gouverneurs particuliers, appellez en
langue du pays Vuornices. La principale ville de la Principaute en laquelle le Prince, on
Vayvode, tient ordinairement sa Cour, se nomine Yas, qui n'est distante de la riviere cle
Prute que de demie lieue, elle n'est enceinte d'aucunes murailles, non plus que les autres
citez, et villes du pais : de sorte que quiconque est maistre de la campagne, dispose facile-
ment de tout 1'Estat a sa volonte. C'est en ceste ville d'Yas que le Metropolit Grec tient
son siege, la religion et croyance duquel n'est beaucoup differente de la Catholique et Ro-
maine, sinon en quelques ceremonies et aussi qu'il ne recognoist pour superieur nostre
sainct Pere le Pape, ains le Patriarche de Constantinople, d'ou vient que ceux de la religion
Grecque ne sont aucunement contraires et n'empeschent 1'exercice de la Religion Catholique
en Moldavie, veu mesmes qu'en la Cite de Codnard il y a un Evesque, et des Religieux de
1'ordre Sainct Francois, qui administrent les sacrernents, an defaut d'autres Pasteurs,
Les campagnes de la Moldavie sont fort grasses, et en plusieurs endroits arrousees de
belles fontaines et ruisseaux, qui les rendent tres-fertiles en bled, froment, orges, avoynes,
millets et foings, qui est cause que les habitans du plat pays nourrissent grande quantite de
bestail de toutes especes, et mesmes des buffles ou chevaux, a la culture de la terre, ce qui
est vraysemblablement la cause pour laquelle il y aux armes du pays une teste de bufhV
courronee, comme anciennement les Egyptiens s'approprierent du bceuf, qu'ils appelloient
Atis, et qu'ils reveroient a cause de son utilite. On void aussi en ce mesme pays quantite
de coustaux fort agreables, et si abondans en vins, que non seulement la Moldavie en est
suffisamment fournie, mais encores ou en transporte en Podolie, et autres pays circonvoi-
sins, et ne puis obmettre qu'il se recueille du vin pres de la ville de Vasseloye, qui est situee
en la haute Moldavie, lequel s'enflame tout ainsi que de bonne eau de Vie; dont la raison
est, a mon advis, qu'il se rencontre en cest endroit quelques veines de terres ensouffrees, et
neantmoins les habitans du pays en usent aussi librement que d'autre, sans que leur san te
en soit aucunement alteree. Entre les Moldaves, il ne se remarque principalement que
trois sortes de professions, assavoir les Boers ou Boyars, qui sont les nobles, portant les
armes, et dcmeurent ordinairement en la campagne : les autres sont ou laboureurs, ou
Marchands. Quant aux Ecclesiastiques, il y en a fort peu, et point du tout d'Officiers de
Justice, aussi n'y a-t'il point de procez, car ils ont ceste loiiable coustume de vuider leurs
differends par 1'advis de leurs amis, ou par le jugement du Vayvode, auquel ils obeyssent.
comme a un Oracle. Ce qui rendoit ce peuple infiniment heureux, et tranquile avant
leurs derniers troubles.
" Pour ce qui concerne le gouvernement, avant que la Moldavie se fut sousmise a la
domination du Turc, elle estoit paisiblement regie par un Due, ou Prince qui s'appelloit
Hospodar, a present Vayvode, qui signifie Gouverneur, ou Baillif, lequel estoit prins et
choisi d'entre les Boers ; Et au moyen de 1'estroitte alliance que les Moldaves avoient avec
Q
110 ADDITIONAL NOTES.
le Roy cle Pologne, ils se maintenoient centre toutes sortes d'ennemis ; Mais depuis que le
Dragon insatiable, et ennemy jure de la Chrestiente a estendu ses grifFes et sa domination
sur cux, il leur a donne tel Prince que bon luy a semble, ou plustost a ses avares Bachats,
qui sont d'ordinaire pratiques par les dons immenses de ceux qui aspirent a ccste princi-
paute, d'oii sont principalement procedez les troubles derniers de la Moldavia."— Histoire de*
dcrniers Troubles de Moldavie : sur les Memoires de loppecourt. Paris, \6L20.
P. 47. " Our travelling was more rapid than the flight of a bird."'] — " Living, like the Tartars, as
much on horseback as on foot, the Moldavians inherit the strongest affection for that admirable
quadruped; talking, soothing, whistling, or hallooing to their horses, by starts, during their
long and rapid journeys. The moment the postillions have vaulted on their backs, they
wave their long whips, like slingers, around their heads, and giving a loud whoop, the animals
set off at full speed, over hill and dale, through bog and mire, regardless of the weakness of
the carriage-springs, the precipices on the sides of the roads, or the lack of courage in the
devoted traveller. 'Ever and anon' the postillions turn round their faces with a grin, as if
in quest of an applauding look; and again urge on their way with increased vigour. If one
of their horses gives up, they turn him adrift from their long rope-harness, and drive on
with the remainder ; for one can be easily spared out of six or eight, their common number.
The discarded animal is left with his two fore-legs fettered, to prevent his straying; and
on their return they pick him up from the fields. On stopping, they imitate the Tartars in
wringing, in winter probably to prevent their being frost-bitten, and in summer to ascertain
the vigour of the animal. When approaching the Post stations, those on the look-out give
the word, and two or three men run off to the uplands, to collect the horses grazing on the
steppes, which they drive down with the smack of their whips, like a pack of fox-hounds.
The post-master selects the requisite number; and the rest are then permitted to gallop back,
in liberty, to their extensive pastures." — Dr. Nccdes Travels.
P. 49. " The city of Yash, or Yassi."] — Yassi is a well-built city, intermingled with gardens
and planted courts ; which, in the usual style of these Eastern towns, much extend its
dimensions, and add greatly to its pleasantness and air of grandeur. It possesses between
sixty and seventy churches; and the Metropolitan Cathedral is a very imposing structure.
It is dedicated to St. Stephen. Within, all is gloom, and painted legends of Saints, male
and female ; while it boasts one particular shrine of great notoriety — that of a holy virgin,
called Parasceve, whose remains are inclosed in a silver coffin, and worshipped by trains
of pilgrims, coming every year to invoke her influence.— Sir Robert Ker Porter.
P. 50. " The Church of St. Saba"} — " The word 'church' is used to signify either the
society or congregation of Christians, or the buildings and places set apart for divine
worship. It is a matter of great difficulty to ascertain at what time Christians first had
buildings designated for their public worship, or in what places they were first permitted.
The earliest accounts we have, especially those in the New Testament, intimate that they
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
only assembled in private houses, or from home to house. .- the natural progress was, that in
some house a particular room was appropriated to this purpose ; and it is probable the
persecutions, which so soon arose, obliged them to be very cautious of meeting even there :
but when Christianity was received and encouraged by the rich, and protected by the State,
public edifices arose for this purpose : it is, however, the opinion of many learned men,
particularly of Suiccrus (in his Thesaur. Eccles. ad vocem N«o5,) that this did not happen
during the three first centuries, as they have shewn from the authority of Origen, Minu-
tius Felix, Arnobius, and Lactantius.
When places were appropriated to religious worship, they were distinguished by a
variety of names, both in the East and West; and frequently authors expressed them by
some peculiar paraphrase of their own. 'ExxA^/«, which, with a little variation, is the French
Eghse, and ^xxA^/ocar^ov, are often used indiscriminately ; though sometimes the former
signified the assembly of Christians, and the latter the place where they assembled. One
of the earliest names is Oratory, or House of Prayer, -KpomvxTfaov, and oko? E£XT^»OS, which
names were afterwards confined to chapels in private families. The Latins called the
church Dominicum, or domus Del, God's House; which answers to the Greek TUvpta^v, whence
the Saxons derived their name Kyrik, or Kyrch ; and the Scotch and English, Kyrk, and Church.
Tertullian called it domus Columbte. The word Temple, which was not used during the three
first ages, was brought in after the Heathen temples were converted into churches for the
worship of the True God."— Dr. King.
P. 58. "Books in their own language"} — La Moldavia et la Valachie ctoicnt anciennement
une Colonie Romaine. On y parlc encore aujourd'hui un latin corrumpu, et ce langage
se nomme Roumie, larigue Romaine. Ces provinces malheureuses sous le joug altier des
Remains, gemissent aujourd'hui sous le poids d'une oppression bien plus cruelle et bien
plus humiliante, puisqu'elles sont ravagces par des subalternes revctus d'une autorite
precaire et momentanee.—Memoires du Baron de Tolt.
P. 59. " The description of the churches"}— " The Greek churches of Russia at this time
are, in general, stately edifices, usually of brick or wood ; and many of the former, especially
in the capital and in chief towns, are handsome buildings, though commonly overloaded
with decorations, according to the style of their architecture. Their forms are diverse ;
some are built in the form of a cross, and some are nearly square : there is always a large
dome, with a cross, at the top : some are of opinion that the most ancient fashion is with
five domes with crosses, but 1 cannot think it probable. Some churches have a crescent
under the cross; for when the Tartars, to whom Muscovy was subjected two hundred years,
converted any of the churches into mosques for the use of their own religion, they fixed
the crescent, the badge of Mahometanism, upon them : and when the Grand Duke I wan
Basilowich had delivered his country from the Tartar yoke, and restored these edifices to
the Christian worship, he left the crescent remaining, and planted the cross upon it as a
mark of its victory over its enemy. The cupolas are generally covered with plates of iron,
HI, ADDITIONAL NOTES.
either white, or painted green, and the ornaments gilt ; and some churches have the whole
domes entirely gilt on the outside, which has a fine effect. Over the door of the church,
ind over the gates of the church-yard, are hung the picture of the Saint to whom the
church is dedicated, and many others : to these the people bow, and cross themselves,
before they enter ; and even in passing them on the road they seldom omit this mark of
respect." — Dr. King.
P. 62. " By their intercession."]—" The Invocation of Saints, which is a doctrine alike
received in the Greek and Roman Communion, is generally allowed to have arisen from the
orthodox doctrine of the Trinity, as established by the Councils of the Church: for men
»eem to have had a difficulty to conceive that Jesus is the supreme, omnipotent, ever
lasting God, and at the same time the Mediator between the Almighty Being and mankind,
that is", between himself and mankind : and thence they fell into the notion of other inter
cessors and mediators. It is in this view they pay a secondary adoration to the Virgin
Mary, to the twelve Apostles, and to a vast number of Saints, with which the Greek Ka-
lendar abounds ; but they deny that they adore these as believing them to be Gods. The
primary object of all religious worship is, undoubtedly, the Supreme Being; and the
homage paid the others is only a respect, as they define it, due to those who are cleansed
from original sin, and admitted to minister to the Deity; thinking it more modest and
more available to apply to them to intercede with God, than to address themselves imme
diately to the Almighty. Thus, as to the object of worship, they assert, that they are
clearly distinguished from idolaters, notwithstanding their offering prayers and burning
incense to their Saints.
" The Greek Church admits the use of pictures, to instruct the ignorant, and to assist
the devotion of others by those sensible representations ; nor do they herein think them
selves guilty of any breach of the Second Commandment, as to the manner of worship : not
only because they say these pictures are used merely as remembrances of the Saints, to
whom their respect is directed ; but because the design of Moses, according to them, in
prohibiting the making and worshipping graven images, was merely to prohibit worshipping
the idols of the Gentiles, which the Gentiles believed to be gods ; whereas they admit no
graven images, but pictures only, upon which the name of the Saint represented must
always be inscribed. The doctors of this Church, indeed, would willingly allow no picture
or representation whatever of God the Father : for the figure of the Ancient of Days, from
Daniel's Vision, whose garment was white as snow, and the hair of his head like the pure ivool, is
by them interpreted to be the Second Person of the Trinity, who so appeared to the
Prophet, Yet it must be confessed, that the common practice is so contrary to their
opinions, that, in a great number of churches, as well ancient as modern, this figure and
Jesus and the dove are painted together, to signify the Trinity: nay, there is now, in the
church of St. Nicholas at Petersbourg, a picture of an old man holding a globe, and
surrounded with angels, on which GOD THE FATHEK is inscribed." — Dr. King.
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 1 1,J
P. 65. " The Prayers were c/taunted."] — No musical instruments are admitted in the
Greek Church, which were certainly unknown in the Christian Church for many ages. It
is generally agreed by learned men, that the use of organs came into the church since the
time of Thomas Aquinas, in the year 1^50; for he has these words: " Our Church does not
use musical instruments, as harps and psalteries, to praise God withal, that she may not
seem to judaize."
P. 65. " For the repast of more than a thousand men,"] — St. John Chrysostom, in one of his
Homilies, gives the following description of this custom : " When all the faithful met
together, and had heard the sermon and prayers, and received the communion, they did
not immediately return home upon the breaking up of the assembly ; but the rich and
wealthy brought meat and provisions from their own houses, and called the poor, and made
a common table, a common dinner, a common banquet in the church. And so from this
fellowship in eating, and the reverence of the place, they were all strictly united in charity
one with another, and much pleasure and profit arose thence to them all ; for the poor
were comforted, and the rich reaped the fruits of their benevolence, both from those whom
they fed, and from God." — Dr. Kings Ceremonies of the Greek Church.
P. 66. " A large apple, ivhick they call Vasiliko."] — " The fruit-trees which are the most
common in Moldavia and Wallachia are, the apple, one of which appears natural to the
climate ; it bears, without culture, a fruit called domniasca, which is perhaps the finest in
Europe, both for size, odour, and flavour : the pear, the plum, the cherry, the peach, the
service, the walnut, and the hazel-nut, come to great perfection, with little culture. The
climate is however unfavourable to the growth both of the olive and the fig-tree. The
wood-strawberry is everywhere to be met with, and the air is perfumed with wild flowers
and aromatic herbs. Asparagus is the natural produce of the soil: the mushrooms are
plentiful, and of excellent quality : the cucumbers, the melons, and water-melons, form
a chief article of food to the common people : the cabbage spreads to an enormous size ;
and the Jerusalem artichoke, yer elmasi (pomme de terre) thrives and is propagated with
little labour or attention." — Thorntons Ottoman Empire.
P. 67. " Then I said, Ev\6yti<roi> AtWora, Give a blessing, Sir."] — The Benediction is a cere
mony very frequently repeated in the service : it can be given by no one of inferior order
to a Priest, who waves his right hand in the sign of the cross, having the thumb and the
fourth finger bent together; and the others so disposed, as is imagined to express the
Greek letters of the name of Jesus Christ ; saying, EuAoyij-ro? o Oeos n^v, *• r. \. " Blessed
be our God, always, now and for ever, even unto ages of ages !" or some other ejaculatory
sentence, according to the occasion ; and often without any ejaculation at all. — Dr. King.
P. 71. " The iron clock in the Ejfendi Convent."] — The natural day was Canonically divided
into twenty-four hours, and twelve of them were reckoned from sun-rise to sun-set ; the
other twelve, from sun-set to sun-rise; consequently, they were of unequal lengths, according
Ill ADDITIONAL NOTES.
to the season of the year. The first hour, or Prima, was reckoned as soon as the sun was
risen ; the third hour, mid-way between sun-rise and noon ; the sixth hour, always at noon ;
and the ninth hour, mid- way between noon and sun-set. As the intervals from one Canonical
hour to another were thought too long to be unemployed in prayer, the four services of
the mid-hours were appointed, and take their names from the first, third, £e.
P. 85. " The (j'irl's Convent."] — " Yassi is surrounded by hills of the greatest beauty,
which afford the finest situations for Country-seats, but which, in most instances, are occu
pied by Monasteries." — Thorntons Ottoman Empire.
P. 92. " The opening of the year of the world"] — The Ecclesiastical Year in Russia begins, as
it does throughout the jurisdiction of the Greek Church, on the first day of September,
about the Autumnal Equinox ; as it is well known the Civil Year did also, till the alteration of
the style by Peter the Great : the vulgar reason given for it being, that God most probably
created the world at that season when the fruits of the earth were in perfection. So
ignorant were they of Geography, says a French Writer, as not to be aware, when it is Mid
summer in one part of the globe, it is the opposite season in another. The epoch they used
to reckon from was the Creation of the World ; from which, to the Birth of Christ, they
counted 5508 years. — Dr. King.
P. 9G. " With all the Boyars"] — Doyar is a Slavonian word, the comparative of Great, and
is the general title of Nobleman ; but does not designate any order of nobility.
" Les Boyards representent avec beaucoup de morgue les Grands du pays ; mais ils ne
sont en effet que des proprietaires assez riches, et des vexateurs tres cruels ; rarement ils
vivent dans une bonne intelligence avec leur Prince ; leurs intrigues se tournent presque
toujours centre lui ; Constantinople est le foyer de leurs manoeuvres. C'est la que chaque
parti porte ses plaintes et son argent, et le Sultan Serasker de Bessarabie est toujours le
refuge des Boyards que la Porte croit devoir sacrifier a sa tranquillite. La sauvc garde du
Prince Tartare assure 1'impunite du Boyard, sa protection le retablit souvent, mais il faut
toujours que cette protection soit payee." — Memoires du Baron de Tott.
P. 99. " In Moldavia there is one Metropolitan"] — " The Principalities have each their
Metropolite. The preferment to that dignity in Wallachia is in the gift of the Prince, or
Hospodar of the Province, as are also the other Bishoprics ; and he derives income from a
share in the revenues of these clergy. But the Metropolite of Moldavia is elected by the
native Nobility ; though he pays part of his receipts to the Prince, in the same manner with
the sister-state. Both Principalities abound in Monasteries, founded, as in Catholic coun
tries, by the donations of pious Boyars in former times." — Sir Robert Ker Porter.
END OF PART THE FIRST.
PART THE SECOND.
WALLACHIA, MOLDAVIA,
AND THE
COUNTRY OF THE COSSACKS.
BOOK III.
WALLACHIA.
SECT. I.
RAMINKO.—B 0 TZA .—TORGHISHT.
E NTERIXG Wallachia, we came to a large market-town, called Raminko : and
thence we reached a considerable city, Botza by name, where a Bishop holds
his residence, in an episcopal palace, containing a magnificent convent of stone,
and a stone-built church, of great size and elevation, with a high tower and lofty
cupolas. This church is adorned with a grand Crucifixion, and is dedicated to
the Assumption of Our Lady. We here assisted at the 'Ayg>yflWa, and afterwards
at the mass of the Feast of St. Catherine. Their forms of service, and their
singing, are admirable ; for the Christians of the province of Wallachia are truly
good and religious. Whenever we were about to enter a village or a market-
town, the Priesthood, Grandees, and common people came out to meet our Lord
the Patriarch, and to receive his blessing : then they took us to the banquet,
where we received their visits ; and after staying a little while, we resumed our
march. This is indeed a populous country; and every farmer's station is as
large as a village, supplying a reception to strangers. It is very different from
Moldavia ; where, when the Patriarch entered the abode of any of the inhabitants,
not one of them came to stand before him, nor treated him to a cake of bread ;
than whom, even the Tartars are more religious. For this reason, so many
thousands of them have been slain, and their crops and cattle carried off by the
Tartars and Hungarians. How much tyranny did they not endure under the
reign of Vasili ! to whom they so often proved treacherous ; inclining to their new
Sovereign, who flattered them with smiles, and promised them that he would
R
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
<Tant them, for three years of his reign, an entire immunity from taxes and
seizures : but as soon as he became master, and had subdued all the forts, his
heart was hardened against them, and he immediately sent to them his tax-
gatherers and governors, and took from them one-third of their rents : so that
they came to sigh for Vasili again, and for Vasili's government.
To return : — As soon as we approached the City of TORGHISHT, which is the
winter residence of the Beg of Wallachia, there came out to meet our Lord the
Patriarch, Kyr Ignatius, the Metropolitan of the town, an old and venerable
man, acquainted with the Turkish, Persian, Greek, and Wallachian Languages.
Into his beautiful coach the Patriarch mounted ; and they both entered the city,
which is surrounded by walls of wood, raised by Matthi, the new Beg. The
town is very large ; and is washed, on all sides, by numerous streams of water.
The Grandees also came out to meet him ; and conducted us to a convent, built
of stone by Vasili Beg, at the time that peace was made between him and the
aforesaid Matthi Beg the Wallachian, as a proof and confirmation of friend
ship. It bears the name of the Divine Manifestation ; but, in their language, is
known as the Convent of Stalia. It is large, and has a stone-wall inclosure.
On our approach to it, they struck the bells in the tower; and entering the
church, they formed a large congregation. There we alighted. The church is
very magnificent and lofty, and has two elegant cupolas with many crosses ; for
the gilding alone of which, it is said that seven hundred Venetian ducats were
required. Its Iconostasis of Russian workmanship is very splendid ; and it has
three doors.
Our entry into Torghisht was on Tuesday the twenty-ninth of Teshrin the
second. In the evening, they struck the bells on account of the Feast of St.
Andrew the Apostle ; and in this country of Wallachia they prolong the cere
mony of the mass more than in Moldavia,
It is to be noted, that on the eve of every distinguished Festival, or
KaraXtxns, they strike all the bells, and assemble in great numbers to mass. On
these days it was always the custom of Matthi Beg to make a T^<«,
or Banquet, for the Clergy and Monks, and the poor people of the town, and
strangers; and after the repast, there was distributed to each of them an alms.
On the Festival of St. Nicholas they formed a large congregation ; and the
Beg sent his coach for our Lord the Patriarch, and we went to the Church of
the Corta, where the Patriarch performed mass, together with Kyr Ghafril, Chief
of the Bishops of Servia, and with the Metropolitan of Wallachia ; with three
crowns, and three ^kJ ; and all gave their blessing simultaneously. At the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1 19
"Af/ov iffriv, the Beg came down, and stood at his throne : and after they had
presented to him the Brole*, and to all his Grandees,, as usual, and afterwards
the royal Salika, or boiled meat, we ascended to the banquet, until evening ; when
robes of honour were distributed to all of us, and we returned in the coach to
our monastery.
In the same manner they do on the Eve of the Festival of St. Ignatius,
preceding the Feast of the Nativity : and on the day of the festival it is their
custom, in this country of Wallachia, to slaughter sacrifices of hogs, which they
hang up for the holidays or U^aj , and their cries reached the firmament.
And now our Lord the Patriarch had a meeting with Matthi Beg, after he
had sent for him to his palace in his coach ; and he welcomed him much. After
we had offered him the acceptance of our gifts, our Lord the Patriarch presented
to him a fine piece of the side of St. Philip the Apostle, and then a vessel of
new ointment. But the Beg had taken to heart our having gone first to visit
his enemy, Vasili Voivoda.
It should be noted, that the Beg appointed us, every week, two Guardsmen
GJ^) °f the rank of Serjeants, for they wore red cloth; who came on Monday
morning to wait on us, splitting our wood, lighting our fires, scaling our fish,
washing the kitchen utensils, and fetching our rations of meat and drink, until
Saturday evening ; when they departed, on being presented, by our Lord the
Patriarch, with a douceur ; and others came, in the usual course.
The Beg soon began to love the Patriarch exceedingly. And on the day of the
HagufAovr] of the Nativity he sent to arouse his troops, that were quartered in
the city, by beat of drum round the town, which is the signal for their
assembling ; and they collected round his palace, with their banners. Mounting
his coach, he came out to them ; and they beat the large instruments before him,
and behind him the drums, accompanied with the sound of flutes and fifes ; for
such is the custom with the Begs of Moldavia and Wallachia, in imitation of the
Turk : and they sallied forth to the hunt. For in the whole of this country, as
far as the Country of the Cossacks, and to Moscow, in every house of a Chief
Priest or Grandee, there is sure to be found a quantity of bears and other animals
for sport. This hunt has been usual, from the most ancient time, on the
TIctgafAov}] or Eve of the Nativity, and on the Saturday of Light ; and it has
been customary on the festival, that the meats served up on the Sovereign's
table, for the dinner, should be of his own chase. The military attendants were
12Q TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
more than ten thousand men,, all chosen from the most heroic and bravest youth
of Servia and Bulgaria; from the Arnaouts, Greeks, Hungarians, Turks, and
Wallachians. In the evening, they returned with an immense booty ; being
followed, in due time, by wagons full of game ; consisting of wild-boars, hares,
foxes, and sporting bears ; and wild fowls, such as cranes, woodcocks, doves,
and so forth.
The Grandees of State in Moldavia and Wallachia have a custom of presenting
to the Beg, three days before the festival, festive-offerings, each according to his
rank ; and the Beg, on the morning of the solemnity, clothes them in robes of
honour.
As to the order of Prayer on the Eve of the Nativity, they conducted it
after the manner of the service at Constantinople. After they had struck the
bells, they entered the church in the early part of the afternoon, and did not
leave it till evening. All their Reading and Prayers were performed with a
delightful chaunt.
It is to be observed, that it is their custom, in this country, on the Eve of
Christmas, for all the Priests of the different towns, with the strangers among
them, and the Reading-boys and Choristers, to assemble in bands, carrying the
images ; and to circulate through the town, during the whole night, on a visit to
the houses of the Government Officers, to wish them joy on the festival. Their
first TloXwfcgoviov is to the Beg : their second was to our Lord the Patriarch,
accompanied by a prayer of congratulation. First, they go to the house of the
Chief of the Priesthood ; then to the Beg ; all for the sake of a gift : and in like
manner they came to our Patriarch. Thus they went about the whole night,
singing a Christmas Carol. Each person kissed the image which they presented,
and made them a gift : and as soon as they were gone, others came, from the fall
of evening till day-break. In like manner did the musical-instrument players,
and the drummers, fluters, and fifers ; going round, in bands, the whole night of
Christmas Eve, and the night after, with lanterns, to the houses of the great
men of the State ; then to the house of the Chief Priest ; and to the Patriarch
who may be present, as I said before. Most of the musicians are from the
country of the Turks.
On the morning of Saturday, the Feast of the Nativity, we assisted at the
"OgQgov, in the Church of the Monastery. At mass-time, the Beg sent his coach,
and we went to the Cathedral.
We were much surprised at the multitude of the troops in Wallachia : they
make tribes and tribes. At the same time, there are, in this country, thousands
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 121
of houses for the sale of wine and spirits, beer, &c. ; and all the military drink :
hut we never saw, on any of the four days, either intoxication among them, or
wounds, or murder, or any wicked act ; on the contrary, they were walking
sober and upright, or sitting like persons in their full senses. What becomes,
then, of the saying in our country, that the Christians expend in drunkenness,
and making themselves mad, whatever bounty they receive from their Sove
reigns,, who are ignorant how to govern their estates?
SECT. II.
TORGHISHT.— THE CORTA.
THE Corta of the Beg of Wallachia is large, and is surrounded by a stone
wall. On one side of it flows a river of water ; and within it is a magnificent
Church, of great dimensions, to which you ascend by steps. It consists of
three divisions. The exterior part is an arcade, constituting the outer Na^f :
then you enter a second gate, to the second apartment, where are the Tombs of
the Begs : lastly, you enter the third gate, to the main level of the church, which
is extensive, and has the appearance of great antiquity : its cupolas are lofty ;
and it is furnished with seats, or stalls, all round. In the middle of this Corta is
a huge tower of stone, very high, and used as the beacon for the town clock.
Here is a numerous guard of soldiers ; who, in the evening, beat a drum, after the
manner of the Khalilia with us, to forbid and put a stop to walking by night.
They also burn there a large light ; and as long as the flame is kept up, no one
dares to move about the streets. In the morning, they again beat the drum ;
and, having extinguished the light, they discharge guns, so as to be heard by
every person in the town, as a signal for the circulation of the people. Should
they find any one going about during the night, the Lord have mercy on him !
for the guards are sure to put him to death. Where then is the truth of what
we say in our country, that the Christians know not how to govern, or regu
late their police ?
The Beg's throne in the church is high, and gilt with gold. Behind it art-
steps, leading up to a secret place ; where the Domina takes her station, attended
by her train of veiled domestics. Hence is a passage to the Council-chamber of
the Beg ; and most of the ascents and descents have their landing here. From
the enclosure, also, where are the Tombs of the Begs, is a passage leading up
to this same spot. On the top of all is a balcony, which serves for an observa-
122 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
tory ; where, on the Dominical feasts, and other festivals of obligation, the Beg
was used to stand and look down below on the soldiery and poor people, and to
throw silver among them at different times, laughing at the strife and pressure
with which they scrambled for the coin. This custom he never neglected : and
when he went down to the church to pray, there were always stationed some
guards at the doors, with arms ; and, except his Grandees, no persons were
present, or allowed to stand near him.
It should be remarked, that, in Moldavia and Wallachia, no one is allowed, by
established usage, nor would dare, to seal a letter with red wax ; as it is a privi
lege reserved for the Beg alone. The rest all seal with green.
And now our Lord the Patriarch performed mass before a large congre
gation : but the Beg, by reason of his old age, had not strength to stand
from the beginning of the mass to the end. He used to come down at the
"A£iov Iffriv, with the Bostenik walking before him with his silver stick. Behind
his chair stood the Spatar, belt with his sword, and holding in one hand a
massive club, in the other the Beg's calpac : for it is the custom of the Begs of
Wallachia to stand from the beginning to the end of the Prayer with their
heads uncovered ; as also before the Head of the Clergy, or the Patriarch. But
Vasili Beg did not take off his calpac much. At the Kavovi&ov, he went down to
kiss the images ; and, after the mass, our Lord the Patriarch presented to him
the 'Avr$«f a, and to all his Grandees. Then we went forth, to pray at the tomb
of the Domina, his wife, who was lately deceased, and buried in the Cemetery of
the Begs, which we have before mentioned. Returning, we prayed over the
dish of royal boiled meat; and all present partook of it, as also of a beautiful
cake, which they distributed to them in like manner. Then our Lord the
Patriarch gave his blessing to the Beg, who immediately ascended the stair
case. In the mean time, the Patriarch went out in his Mav^y'a, accompanied by
the Metropolitan of the town, and the rest of the Clergy and Grandees in
attendance, to wait the appearance of the Beg on the high balcony : and when
he threw the money, according to custom, to the soldiery and the poor, the
Patriarch blessed him, as before. Then they took us up, by the staircase out of
the church, to the Beg's apartments, to the banquet. On this occasion, the
great men of the State vested themselves in their royal robes of honour, as is
the princely custom on the great festivals, and on this day stood and served
at the table from first to last. This they always do on the Feasts of the Nati
vity and the Circumcision, and the Feast of the Immersion and of the Passover :
but on the day after the feast they sit at table with him, and others wait
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
on them, as in the usual course of the year. And whenever a tray of dishes
was carried from the kitchen to the eating-room above, the drums were beat,
and the trumpets sounded, amid the shrill cry of the pipes and fifes : as also
every time the Beg drank, the trumpets again sounded ; and they fired three
guns, till the very earth trembled. In this way they continued until evening ;
the Beg sitting with his head uncovered, and drinking frequent draughts out of
large goblets which held an oka of wine. First, three bumpers were served to
each, in honour of the Festival ; 2dly, three more, in honour of the Patriarch ;
3dly and 4thly, and more and more and more bumpers, in the name of the Beg.
No one was excused from drinking, on any account ; as each was acquainted with
the custom, that every person who sits down to table with the Beg must quaff
his cups in this manner till the lights are placed, the appearance of which is a
signal for departure : but usually, then, the Beg distributed robes of honour to
the heads of the Clergy, and to the Abbots of the Beg's own Convents, who were
in the habit of sitting at his table. And, first, to the Patriarch who may be
present, he gives a robe of velvet : in like manner he gives, also, to the Metropo
litan of the city, who attends at his table regularly throughout the year ; for no
one but he says grace at the Prince's meals. To the rest of the Heads of
Convents present he gave robes of satin of various prices. To the ordinary
Priests, and to us the Deacons, he distributed vests of Scio silk. For the rest of
the Clergy and the Monks, and the poor persons of the multitude, they set a
large table apart ; and, at the end of their meal, they distributed to them silver
pieces, wrapped in handkerchiefs. Such was the order of observance on every
Dominical feast.
Under the Metropolitan of Wallachia are two Bishops: one is the Bishop of
Botza, whom we have already mentioned ; the other of Kimniko the Larger.
Wallachia contains about four hundred convents, magnificently built of stone ;
all the Presidents of which, together with the Bishops, are in the practice of
coming before the Festival of the Nativity, and of bringing a small present to
the Beg, of victims, wine and fruit, £c., and wish him joy of the feast ; and they
remain till after the Immersion, living at the tables he sets for them, and on his
gifts : then they depart home. In like manner they wait on the Beg at Easter;
and on Thursday of the Ascension ; the Metropolitan Church being dedicated
under that title, as \ve shall soon have occasion to mention.
To resume our narrative : — In the evening we returned, in the coach, to our
convent, with a file of Sakams and Dharrabs before and behind, armed with
lances, swords, &c. Round the carriage were the Beg's pioneers ; and his
124 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
singers, with their pupils, the children of the household, who chaunted and sang
from the palace to the convent. They all received a present,, according to
custom ; and after the Sakams had discharged their muskets, they retired.
It may be remarked,, that in these two countries of Moldavia and Wallachia
on the Eve of the Circumcision, all the Grandees of State, the Governors, and
Barcalams or Sohashis, and all the Officers of the Divan of every decree, wait on
the Beg, and throw down before him the ensigns of their dignity, whether it be
a sword, a mace, a silver stick, a silver hanger, or any other weapon ; and
retire. In the night, the Beg sends an appointment, or a dismissal : and he who
is raised in rank has an ensign sent him, with a robe of honour; as he has, also,
who retains his former station : but the person whom the Beg wishes to dismiss
has nothing sent him ; and this is a sign of his dismissal. For from year to year
there is no rise to office, or descent from it, except at the Feast of the Circum
cision, on the first day of the year ; when all attend, early in the morning, at
church, according to their daily custom of assisting at the "OgQgov : thence they
go out to congratulate the Beg on the festival, and kiss his right-hand. After
mass, they wait at table on this day, until the evening, clothed in their robes of
honour : on the morrow they sit with him at the banquet ; and others wait, who
are accustomed to perform that duty throughout the year. At this time, also,
they send him presents, each in proportion to his rank. The Domina, also, the
wife of the Beg, bestows robes of honour on their wives and daughters ; and they
return presents, in like manner.
On this occasion of the Feast of the Circumcision, our Lord the Patriarch
celebrated for the Beg the mass rov Bcurihiax; ; and they afterwards ascended
together to the Banquetting-room, where was a greater assemblage than even on
the Day of the Nativity. With the quaffing of the brimful goblets, the firing of
the guns, and the shrill tuning of the musical wind-instruments, there was,
towards evening, a distribution of robes. Afterwards, we returned to our convent
in the coach, attended by the Sakams, the Dharrabs, the pioneers, and the
singers ; who grasped their fee, as usual, and withdrew.
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. 125
SECT. III.
TORGHISHT. — FEAST OF THE IMMERSION.
ON the Eve of the Immersion,, they observed the same ceremonies as on the
Mivti of the Nativity, and recited the usual prayers over the water,, in all the
churches.
It may be noted, that, in all the Christian countries, the Priests, at the begin
ning of every month, make an 'Ayiarpog in every church, and go round to
sprinkle the houses, for the sake of the gratuity ; and in this country of Walla-
chia, in particular, the number of the industrious Clericals is great.
On this Feast of the Immersion are assembled here, from all parts of Wal-
lachia and the adjoining countries, thousands of Conventual Abbots, and
Priests, and Monks, and Deacons ; with the Metropolitan of Tirnova, who is
accustomed to attend, and other Metropolitans; wrho never fail on this service,
attracted by the hope of the gratuity, and hasten from year to year to the
ceremony. It is this : — After the prayer over the water in the evening, they fill
their pitchers and buckets with it, and, clothing themselves in their <E>£Aov;a,
they take crosses in their hands, and walk first to the palace of the Beg, whom
they sprinkle, each in his turn and separately, and receive from him a liberal
gift. Then they come to the Metropolitan of the town ; and go round to all the
houses of the State Ministers and of the richest inhabitants, to asperge them.
They came also to our Patriarch, through the whole night, singing and chaunting
psalms ; and he took the hyssop, and sprinkled the house in the form of a cross,
and himself and all present : then he kissed the cross, and threw them a gift
into their vessels. In the same manner, the band of musicians, with their drums
and fifes and pipes, and flaming torches, paraded through the town this whole
night, and also the night following the festival, to serenade the Grandees of the
State ; and came also to us, to compliment our Lord the Patriarch, who made
them a present. They were all Turks, and considered it an honour to be
admitted to our presence. The greatness of the assemblage here in Wallachia,
and their exultation on this Feast of the Immersion, are not equalled, even at
the Courts of the greatest Princes of Christendom, to judge by what we
saw and heard.
On the morning of the Feast of the Immersion, we attended the "Ogtigov,
in the Church of the Convent ; and, at mass time, the Beg sent his coach for
S
126 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the Patriarch ; and set forward in great pomp, the troops being drawn up right
and left from the convent to the palace, and displaying their crossed banners ;
as also within the palace : and whenever they fired their muskets, the smoke
did not roll along the ground, but rose above their heads. The whole number
of the troops, as we afterwards heard, was about one hundred thousand ; for the
Beg of Wallachia keeps in his pay about one hundred and fifty thousand ; as
this territory is covered with an immense population ; and every fugitive from
the country of the Turks comes to settle on his domain, where great gain is
to be acquired. Nearly the whole of these troops are sure to assemble on this
Feast of the Immersion, and at Easter.
Then we entered the church ; and our Lord the Patriarch vested his robes
together with the Metropolitan, and with Kyr Ghafriyil the Head of the Bishops
of Servia, the Chiefs of the Conventual Abbots, &c. Each of them held in his
hand a veiled cross, and they came and stood by their chairs. And now they
brought great loads of tapers, which they distributed among the congregation :
afterwards they erected, in the middle of the church, a kind of large table, on
which they placed the carpets (^UL), then the large cups, and, lastly, the
silver basin filled with water, and a large box full of the reliques of the Saints,
from which they took out the right-hand of St. Michael, Bishop of Sonada,
with the right-hand of St. Marina, enchased in pure gold. At this moment
the Beg came down, and stood at his throne ; and the Spatar took hold of a
large taper covered with gilt ; and two others such they set in the candlesticks
on each side. Immediately, the Patriarch descended, and prayed over the
water* : and at the conclusion we went to the outside of the church, for the
* " I shall describe one more Religious Ceremony, named, The ' Blessing of the Waters ;' and which
is observed, annually, on the morning of the 6th of January, O. S.
" On this occasion, after divine service in the Chapel of the Winter Palace, the Emperor, accompa
nied by the various Members of the Imperial Family, the Clergy, and different Public Functionaries,
repairs, in grand procession, to the Neva ; where a large and splendid Pavilion, decorated with paintings
from subjects in Holy Writ, is erected over an opening cut through the ice.
" The order of procession is as follows : — First come the Choir, singing appropriate hymns, and fol
lowed by the Archbishops, Bishops, and Inferior Clergy ; the former habited in richly-embroidered
robes, with their episcopal mitres on their heads, beset with pearls and brilliants, and wearing also the
splendid crosses of the Orders of St. Alexander Nefsky and St. Vladimir. This whole body of Priests,
with their long white beards, makes a remarkably venerable appearance. Next in the procession is
the Emperor, attended by his Officers of State ; and followed by the Grand Dukes, and a numerous train
of the Nobility.
: " On entering the Pavilion, the Emperor and his Court uncover their heads ; and, notwithstanding
the intense severity of the weather, remain in this state throughout the ceremony. The whole now
arrange
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 12?
Patriarch to dip the cross in the river. The procession was formed of the
standard-bearers first, with their ensigns and banners surmounted with crosses,
walking two and twro : then came the torch-bearers ; then the Priests in couples ;
and after them our Lord the Patriarch, with the Metropolitan. As soon as the
Patriarch was advanced to the bank of the river, with the cross in his hand, he
found the water frozen ; for there was a severe frost that morning, sufficient to
make the stones crack. It had been the custom, formerly, to pray over the
water in the middle of the Corta : but as the Beg was an old man, and the cold
so intense, they recited the Prayers inside. And now they broke the ice for the
Patriarch ; and he plunged the cross in the water three times, whilst they
chaimted a certain hymn. After this, all the people filled their pitchers from
the river ; and the Priests dipped a great number of children in it, where the ice
was broken. Some few of them were frozen to death ; and we were grieved to
hear the crying of the infants, in consequence of their sufferings from the water,
and the intensity of the frost. As for us, our eyes were blinded with standing
bare-headed ; and for many days we were afflicted with pains in our ears, and
deafness. Then they returned ; and we re-entered the church ; and the
Patriarch sprinkled the four sides of the building, and the Tabernacle : then he
approached the Beg, and sprinkled him. At the moment that the Beg kissed
the cross, a signal was made to the troops ; and they discharged all their
muskets, so that the air thundered, and we feared the church would fall down
upon us ; and our ears were deafened. Then he sprinkled the rest of the
arrange themselves in their respective situations, and the Archbishop proceeds to bestow his benedic
tion on the waters of the river. A cupfull is taken from it, with which he, in succession, sprinkles
the Emperor, his Brothers, and the whole party ; each respectfully kissing his hand, on receiving the
holy fluid.
" The procession now returns to the Palace, in the same order as before, amidst salutes of cannon
from the Fortress ; after which, a splendid breakfast is partaken of.
" In Catherine the Second's time, the Ladies of the Court used to join in the ceremony: they now,
however, in consequence of the severe cold, merely witness the procession from the windows of the
Palace.
" The crowds which assemble on this occasion are immense : and such is the opinion entertained,
by all classes, from the palace to the cottage, of the virtues of the blessed water, that thousands of
vessels-full are taken from the river, to be reserved as a panacea against every disorder to which the
human body is incidental. Nay, notwithstanding the rigour of the season, numberless mothers take
their infants to be baptized in the river : and I have been informed, that, on such occasions, the hands
of the officiating Priest have sometimes been so benumbed by cold, that the child has been known to
slip through his fingers ; when the current has immediately, and irretrievably, carried it under the ice.
In this case, the mother readily consoles herself, in the firm belief, that an infant thus drowned, in holy
water, goes the shortest way to heaven." — HOLMAN'S Travels in Russia, Turkey, &c. Vol. I. p. 162.
128 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Grandees present. You might have seen them, like the flowers of the spring, in
their bright-coloured clothes ; and all enveloped in furs, which they consider an
indispensable mark of wealth. Afterwards, we went forth to the outside of the
church ; where they set two chairs before the door, on the loftiest spot ; one of
which the Beg occupied, the other our Lord the Patriarch. On each side,
right and left, the Priests took their station. Then they brought the Beg's
noblest and most valuable steeds, in their richest trappings of gold brocade, set
with pearls and precious stones, a delight to the beholder ; and the Patriarch
threw water on them, one by one, to the number of about twenty, and sprinkled
them ; and these were the proper stud of the Beg, each of the value of one
thousand dinars. At the end of all, came a groom, mounted on a small mule,
and another riding an ass, for the sake of exciting the mirth and laughter of the
spectators. And after he had sprinkled them, we went in to mass : whence we
ascended to the banquet. On this day there was a larger assembly, and more
splendid than on the preceding festivals ; and the repast was celebrated with
drinking of bumpers, with the clang of the musical instruments, the beat of
drums, the tuning of fifes and pipes, and the discharge of muskets and field-
pieces ; and the joy and exultation were great. In the evening, robes were
distributed to us, as usual ; and we returned in the coach, surrounded by the
pioneers, and the Sakams and Dharrabs, who fired their muskets as they went
along, whilst the singers chaunted until we arrived at the convent. Here they
received their gratuity, and departed, leaving us deafened with their noise.
On the morning of Saturday, the second day of the festival, all the musicians
and drummers and fifers, both Turks and Wallachians, went round to every
house of the rich, and played and beat their instruments : and they came to
wish the Patriarch joy of the solemnity, and prayed for his prosperity; and
after we had made them a present, they departed. In like manner, the Sakams,
and other Officers of the army, came to pay their compliments, and fired their
muskets ; and receiving their fee, they departed. This went on, without inter
mission, till evening.
It should be remarked, that all the Great Men of the Wallachian Government
are extremely religious ; and every morning throughout the year they go to the
Church of the Corta, and assist at the "OgOgov : afterwards, they go up to the Beg,
and form a Divan for sentences and judgments : then they descend to mass ;
and do not leave the church till near mid-day, to attend the Beg, and go to their
dinners. This is their course of life, from one year's end to the other.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 129
SECT. IV.
TORGHISHT.— CHURCHES.— EPISCOPAL PA LACES.
IN this city of Torghisht are more than eighty churches and convents, mostly
built of stone. It is a large town, of the class of Aleppo and Damascus.
Matthi Beg had raised a wooden wall all round it ; and sunk a ditch, with vast
labour. We were told, that under the Wallachian Government are six and
twenty towns like Torghisht. Of the convents, that of Vasili Beg is the
handsomest. The Metropolitan Palace of Wallachia is on one side of the town,
just within the wall, and is very magnificent. It is surrounded by three
enclosures of wood, and consists of three courts. The outer court is for the
feeding of geese, ducks, and chickens ; the second, for the stabling of the horses,
and the culinary offices : but the third court is a building entirely of stone, and
a costly edifice, to which you enter by large gates ; having in front of you the
magnificent church, which has no equal in this country, unless it be the Metro
politan Church of the Cossacks resembling St. Sophia. So is this church lofty
and wide,, raised on many pillars, and very imposing in appearance, on the plan
of St. Sophia. It is divided into three parts : the first is the outer Na^f ,
very spacious, with many cupolas : then you enter, by the second door, to
another spacious Na^f , and of some elegance : lastly, you enter, by a third
door, to the middle of the church, which is of vast dimensions, with a large
cupola spreading over the top, from which is suspended a Xo^o? of great size.
It contains three tabernacles, or chapels, very lofty and magnificent. That in
the centre is very spacious, and has high stalls around it. The Iconostasis, and
the Symbolon, and the crosses, are very grand ; and the candlesticks, of gilt wood,
are of the most elegant fashion. The windows around it are many ; and in the
cupolas are also windows, all beautified with glazed sashes. The Beg's chair is
on the right-hand, as you enter in, at the angle of the door-post. Near it is the
chair of the Chief of the Priesthood, at which our Lord the Patriarch always
stood : and opposite, in the corner of the other door-post, is another chair, at
which stood the Metropolitan of the city. The whole circle of it was furnished
with stalls or chairs, and the walls were covered with ancient paintings. The
place where the Domina took her station was in the second Na^f, where
were chairs for her and her attendants. All round this church are rose-gardens,
and beautiful parterres of other flowers, in narrow beds, with latticed palings.
In the neighbourhood of the northern Tabernacle is a watering-stone of
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
wonderful beauty, of great height, size, and weight. The number of the
cupolas of this church, both great and small, is twelve, with twelve gilt crosses.
Before the gate is a beautiful fountain of water ; and, likewise, outside the gate
of the enclosure is another fountain.
As to the apartments of the Metropolitan, they are towards the east, and
very lofty ; and you enter them by a long staircase on the outer pent, raised on
arches, and looking towards the church and the court, and over the large
garden. All the walls are painted with the wonders of the Creation, both of
land and sea ; with the description of Jerusalem and its convents ; with that
of the Mountain of God, Tor Sinai, and all its appendages ; with the Holy
Mount, and its four-and-twenty convents ; and the sea and all that, distinct and
large. Then you enter the first Assembly-room belonging to the Metropolitan,
which is long and wide, with an immense table in the middle, and a stove and
chimney entirely covered with coloured tiles, and numerous arched windows
looking into the large garden. Afterwards you come to a handsome Vestry, of
superior elegance, and furnished also with a tiled stove : here are places to
hang up the furs and sables, &c. The interior of these apartments is all newly
painted with various forms and portraits of the Saints. From this place you
enter the Treasury-rooms, where he keeps his vestments and copes, and his
crowns called mitres, and his crosiers and silver vessels, &c. Here are hung up
the lamps and candlesticks, dipped in gold and silver, and ornamented with
gold wire ; bridles, swords, maces, and armoury tools. For when he goes out
to meet a Patriarch or a Traveller, he is attended by guards, and his grooms,
each of them a young man of high rank, clothed in beautiful garments, with
furs and sables, &c. ; and they ride before and behind him. The same may be
said of the Metropolitan of the Cossack country.
We remarked, that the women from Constantinople to Moldavia and Wal-
lachia wear long robes of woollen cloth, divided down the middle, and reaching
to the ground, lined with fur in proportion to their wealth.
To return : — From the Treasury you enter an Assembly-room which has an
outer gallery, arched over, and looking into the garden, and in front a fountain of
running water. Here the dinner-table is laid, in the summer season ; and from
this place you descend into the large garden, which you are not able to see over
from one end to the other : it is entirely shaded with large walnut-trees ; and
one half is planted with vines and rose-bushes, the other with apple, plum, quince
and cherry trees, damascenes, or birds'-hearts, and the like ; green plantations of
peas, beans, artichokes, &c.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 131
The Tower of the Arches is outside the door of the church ; and every one is
agreed, that the walls enclosing this palace, with its gardens, contain room suffi
cient for a large town. Here all the affairs regarding the Bishoprics and Presi
dencies of Convents are transacted : and it is the daily practice of the Metropo
litan of this town to go in his coach to the presence of the Beg, and attend the
Divan, where they lay the cross and the Gospel before him ; and when the
Council breaks up, he goes down to the church, to hear mass ; afterwards he
goes up to the Beg and reads prayers, and pronounces a blessing over the
banquet. Every thing is in his hand, especially if he be generous and liberal.
Observe, that when the people of this country, whether male or female,
come to demand judgment against each other, before the Beg or a Chief
Priest, they fall on their knees, and in that posture give utterance to their dis
course. The most respectful present which they make to the Beg is a cake of
bread.
The Metropolitans of this province have no tax to collect upon the peasan
try : but there is a certain sum of money appointed to be paid them annually,
by the Clergy who are under their jurisdiction : this is over and above the
offerings of Easter, and of other festivals ; the farms, vineyards, orchards, and
such like, being possessed in fief by the occupant of this See. And this
state of things we observed all the way home, as far as Moscow.
From the time of our entrance into Wallachia, to our departure, all the
Grandees used to come to our Lord the Patriarch, to ask his blessing ; and never
failed to make him a present, on a tray covered with a napkin, of every thing in
season — lemons, oranges, apples, plums, grapes, figs, nuts ; and generally of a
loaf of bread ; sometimes of fish, and always, without fail, of a quantity of wine.
In the same manner, all their wives visited the Patriarch ; and even the young
brides and unspoused maidens came, with their faces uncovered, attended by
their maid-servants, in their coaches, and followed by numerous trains of grooms
and outriders. They brought gifts of the quality I have just described, asking
the Patriarch's blessing, and his absolution. Their ornaments of pearls, and
furs and sables, and of the finest shawls, were manifold.
We found, that all the peasantry of this country of Wallachia are exceedingly
religious and respectful, and much dread to commit any thing unlawful : this
disposition is still more particular in the Lords of opulence ; for they used to
come to our Lord the Patriarch, for him to sign with his hand and seal on the
letters of the Begs to them in grant of their dignities and fiefs. So, also, writs
132
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of excommunication used to issue from him in decision of judgments, which
were staid by no respect of persons. When the common people carried any
oppressor before the Patriarch to be excommunicated, they used to run out, for
fear ; thinking that excommunication was a burning fire, and dreading to be
present at so terrible a punishment. Many of the shopkeepers in the market
used to go out from him with tickets of penance imposed, and absolution
granted.
SECT. V.
TORGHISHT.—CLTMA TE.—MA NNERS.
THERE fell this year, from the beginning of the month Canon the Second
to the end of the month Adar, a vast quantity of snow, which covered the
o-round without intermission, until Easter. Such storms and frost, and cold
o
damps, we had never before seen : even the wine froze in the vessels, and the
watery part of the oil (J^.^r As for lemons and eggs, they became like the
hardest stones, and were entirely spoiled. You might see, growing down from
the roofs of the houses, long sticks of crystal, that is to say, ice, all round; and
this was, when, by lighting fire withinside, the snow melted without, and, by the
activity of the frost, every drop, as it descended, was turned into ice, till there
grew out large rods, which were an object of wonder to the spectators from our
country.
It is worth remark, that the greatest part of the grooms, who have the care
of the horses belonging to the Beg and the Grandees of State, are from our
country, and from Egypt — Mahometans and Christians. They have also a mul
titude of purchased servants of the black slaves, whom they commonly call to by
the name of " Arab ! Arab !" They, consequently, think that all the people of
our country are black slaves, or stable-grooms; and for this reason we are
looked upon with an eye of much contempt by them : so that when we arrived
among them, and they beheld the Patriarch, and our style and ceremonies,
and observed our eloquent reading of the Greek language, they were much
astonished.
In the days of the Carnival, we saw their weddings ; for at this season they
marry numerously. The night before the wedding, the bridegroom went
about with his friends on horseback the whole night, with drums and pipes, and
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 133
torches, through the streets of the city : the bride, with the girls her companions,
sat at the same time in coaches, with musicians behind, and rode through the
quarters of the town, without any covering on their heads, as is the fashion of
unmarried women. On this day the girls go round, in a ring, about the court of
the house, holding each other by the hands, and adorned with various kinds of
ornaments. In their hair they wear crowns of gilt pewter and yellow brass ;
besides artificial roses, manufactured by the Venetians and Germans, tulip-
flowers, jessamin, &c. ; and they dance and sing, as they move around. As soon
as the bride has been crowned with the bridegroom in the church, they place on
her head a white handkerchief, in token of her having become a married woman.
In the evening, the bridegroom goes about with his companions and the musicians,
and the bride and the other married women in coaches after him ; and thus they
ramble the whole night and day, in merriment, for two or three days. This is
their marriage ceremony ; and no eye of envy or perfidy glances on them.
We remarked in this country of Wallachia, that at the season of the Great
Carnival they leave off flesh-meat; and apply themselves to the purchase offish,
which at this time is frozen, and looks like pieces of wood, but is much harder.
They carry it under their arms, like any other dry goods, and made us stare at
them with astonishment. The same thing may be seen in every Christian
country.
The married women and the girls in Wallachia are spotless and pure, and
strictly regular in their conduct. Whoever is known to have done any foul
commission, is sent by her husband and banished to a mine of rock-salt, whence
there is no escape ; and there the women remain sunk for life.
SECT. VI.
TORGHISHT.— FUNERAL RITES.
As for the ceremony of their funerals* and the interment of their dead, it is
similar to what we have related of the funeral observances in Moldavia : but they
go to a vast expense. They used to carry our Lord the Patriarch to the house
" As soon as the person has expired, men are hired to read prayers continually over the body, until
the period of interment arrives ; and for this purpose, Priests are not necessary : cooks are also put
into immediate requisition, to prepare the Funeral Feast. When the melancholy day arrives, the
relatives and friends of the deceased, attended by numerous Priests, assemble in the room where the
T body
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of the deceased ; and the bell of the church, where they intended to bury
him, was busy ringing from early in the morning to the time of the interment.
A multitude of Priests and Deacons and Friars and paupers used to assemble on
the occasion ; for in this country is settled an innumerable herd of foreign
Priests and Deacons, who flock to such scenes as these. Each came with his
Hsgir(>a%faioi> and his Book, and the Deacon with his Sr^a^ov. All the Dea
cons present wear their 2r;^;a. Then they distribute tapers to all in
attendance, whether Priests or paupers ; and the Archdeacon takes in his hand
the censer, and they go out to the Patriarch, saying EuX^/^ov AsWora. The
Patriarch takes the censer from him ; and he throws incense round the corpse,
whilst he says EyXoy^rog : and the singers now begin to chaunt " Have mercy on
us, O God," and the whole Beatitude, to accompany the throw of the incense, in
a sweet tone. After incensing the Clergy and the rest of the congregation, and
a second time round the body of the deceased, the Patriarch incenses the Deacon,
and gives him the censer : then he steps— crossing himself on the forehead, towards
the East, three times — near the corpse, and comes and stands in his place. At
the time of the First Aofa of the Beatitude, the Archdeacon used to say, with the
replenished censer in his hand, " Have mercy on us, () God," £c., and also, "We
pray for the sake of such a one deceased, that the Lord God cherish his soul" &c.
Then our Lord the Patriarch used to say the First Declaration. Afterwards, they
began to sing the Second Ao'f a of their Beatitude, " Thy hands formed me, and
created me." In the mean time, the Chief of the Clergy, if present, or the Senior
Priest, is busy throwing incense round the dead body, then towards our Lord
the Patriarch and the rest of the Assistants. Lastly, he incenses the Deacon, and
gives him the censer ; and steps forward, crossing himself on the forehead : after
which, he retires to his place, where he recites the Second Declaration, before the
body is laid; which is then, after a short prayer, accompanied by the burning of incense, carried in pro
cession to the church, when the Funeral Service is performed ; after which, it is conveyed to its last
earthly abode. The party now return to the residence of the deceased ; where, after a repetition of prayer
and the burning of incense, they sit down to a sumptuous dinner, from which many of them frequently
retire in a state of inebriation. This mournful festivity, how ever, is not confined to the higher depart
ment of the family; the servants and poor are entertained, with dinner, spirits, tea, &c., in the kitchen
and offices; and it is by no means unusual, on the succeeding morning, to find a variety of napkins,
knives, spoons, or other articles, missing. On the fourteenth, twentieth, and fortieth days from the
decease, a similar dinner is given, and also at the end of the sixth and twelfth month : and, if the friends
are opulent, they are expected to send donations of money to the convent, and all the churches, prisons,
hospitals, and alms-houses, together with provisions for the three latter ; and which are to be repeated
on the various dinner-days above mentioned."— HOLMAN'S Travels, Vol. II. p. 61.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. ]35
prayer " Look upon me, and have mercy :" and after the second Deacon has said,
" Have mercy on us, O God, according to thy great mercy," £c., the Deacons
each said, once, " Have mercy on us, O God/' £c., all round the number pre
sent ; and gave the censer to the Priests all round, to each in his station : and
they recited Declaration after Declaration.
At the time of the Adoration, our Lord the Patriarch used to go to kiss the
images, and cross himself once and twice, and give his blessing to the congrega
tion : then he went to stand at his place, after he had read the Gospel over the
heads of his people. Then the Priests entered, in their ranks, two and two ; the
one on the right, the other on the left ; bowing together, once and twice, till
they had all done. Next the Deacons came in ; then the Friars ; and lastly the
paupers : and on both sides there were standing some of the relatives of the
deceased ; and each time a Priest kissed the image, they gave him a present in a
fringed handkerchief, to each according to his dignity ; and in like manner they
did to the Deacons and Friars and paupers. After this came in the Grandees,
and other persons attending ; and we walked before the corpse to the church :
first the whole of the Priests, two and two ; then our Lord the Patriarch, with
the bier following him, attended by the inheritors, and the singers, chaunting.
And every time they had walked a small distance, they set down the body, and
ranged themselves around it : and the Deacon said, holding in his hand the
censer, " Have mercy on us, O God," &c. ; and the Patriarch recited the Prayer
for the Dead. Then they raised the body, and moved forward; and ceased not to
proceed in this manner till they had carried it into the church-yard, to the spot
above the grave ; where they lowered it from the bier, and placed it in a coffin
lined with red cloth, and buried it : after which they departed.
It deserves remark, that it is the custom with the relatives of the deceased, in
this country, for the men to go about bare-headed, for the space of fifteen
days ; but the women and girls only let loose their hair. There is no weeping
aloud, nor crying : all is sedateness and modesty. At the moment that the
Chief Priest or the Minister reads the Gospel over the dead body on the bier,
the women come, with the girls, and kneel down under the book, till the Lesson
is over : and thus, after all the rest of the attendants have kissed the dead body,
and crossed themselves, they come also and perform the same ceremony,
weeping modestly.
On the third, ninth, and fortieth day, till the end of the year, they perform
for the deceased a Mvtipotrvvov ; and distribute tapers to the Priests who are robed
in the church, and to the rest of the Assistants ; and they begin chaunting,
136 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
" Have mercy on me, O God," with the Beatitude, in responses, and the
Canon. The first person who threw incense was our Lord the Patriarch : after
him the thurible was used by the rest of the Clergy present: and after the
Gospel had been read, and gifts had been distributed to the Assistants, every one
departed.
A funeral like this will cost a hundred or two hundred gold pieces, more or
less. Some, after the funeral, take the attendants to the house of the deceased,
to dinner ; or after the MvyifMtrvvov.
On the Eves of the Saturdays of the Carnivals, there was no congregation in
memory of the dead, as with us ; and the reason of it is, the multitude of their
churches.
On the Monday preceding the Fast from Cheese, early in the morning, most
of the wives of the State Grandees came to our Lord the Patriarch, to beg of
him that he would read the Prayer of Absolution over them ; and they threw
themselves on the ground before him, in their elegant dresses, till he had finished
the recital. In like manner did their husbands, until late in the evening.
After the prayer at sun-set, on the eve of the fast, there were no prayers
before sleep ; for it is not the custom with them in this country to say them, not
even on the Monday nights : but they all attended in the church, from the
highest Grandees of State down to the rich shopkeepers £c., with their wives
and children : and our Lord the Patriarch descended from his throne, and stood
between the candlesticks, in his Uegirguxfaiov and 'CLfM><pogiov : and they all
threw themselves on the ground, and he read over them the Prayer of Absolu
tion. Then they all received a blessing from him : first, the Chief Priests
present; next, the Heads of Convents and the ordinary Clergy, and the
Grandees and the rest of the Assistants : as also his Highness the Beg sent, by
the Metropolitan of the city, to ask his absolution ; for they had conceived a
great veneration for our Lord the Patriarch, as was clearly evident.
During this great Lent, there came to visit the Patriarch a President of a
Monastery of the orthodox religion, who was said to be from the Islands of Bri^
tannia* mentioned by John the Chrysostom, from a city called Herwat (e-^yt).
And it was said, that in this country there are about twenty-five thousand houses,
* The word in the text (U? W,) cannot, I apprehend, as it stands, be deciphered in any other way
than that which I have taken ; and the Archdeacon would thus have erred in the name of the Islands
to which he refers, situated on the coast of Illyria, in the Adriatic Sea : but should recourse I
a change in the points, the word might then be read ftl^ Porfoitflte, or Porfunoto, the
name of the principal of those Islands, now called Veglia.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 137
all orthodox, whose Governor is from among themselves, and whose language is
Servian. The Chief of the Bishops of Servia informed me that they had fled from
his country. They are to the south of the country of the Germans, and near to
the northern part of the Venetian territory. This person asked to be made a
Chief Priest over them, and had letters with him written in their hands : but
he was proved to be a liar ; and Matthi Beg immediately sent him to the salt
mines. His countrymen were said to have placed their faith in the crosier of
the Patriarchs of Antioch, and to hold strongly to their authority.
SECT. VII.
TORGHISHT.— LENT.— HOLY WEEK.
DURING this week*, they fasted, and did every thing according to the Ritual
observed in Moldavia,, with great punctuality ; and even went beyond it. Thus
they did not go out from mass, on the Lent Saturdays, till near noon. On
the First Sunday of the Lent, our Lord the Patriarch said mass in the Convent
Church ; as also on the Fourth Sunday. On the Eve of Thursday of Penance,
which fell in with the Feast of the Forty Martyrs, they struck the bells, and per
formed a Vigil throughout the night, after the manner and custom of Vigils in
* " The next morn ushered in Palm Sunday and Passion Week ; the whole of which is, by the Greek
Church, devoted to the performance of religious duties ; and held as so rigid a fast, that no religious
person will even eat fish, partaking only of sufficient farinaceous food, oil, and vegetables, to support
the necessities of nature : nay, some, I am assured, will pass the entire week without eating. The
sick and aged, however, are exempt from these observances.
" This season is known by the name of the ' Terrible Week ;' and, while it continues, no shops are
allowed to be open, except a few, by express permission, for the sale of provisions. Visiting is gene
rally interrupted. I had the honour, however, of dining with two families during the week ; in one of
which, the lady of the house, without any apparent reason, begged my pardon. I afterwards learnt,
that it is customary, at this time, for individuals to ask forgiveness of their friends for all previous
offences, that might have been committed, or imagined to be committed.
" On Good Friday, the people assembled, at two in the afternoon, in the different churches, to wit
ness a representation of the Burial of our Saviour.
" On Easter Morning, immediately after the midnight-hour had struck, all the bells in the city,
including the great Ivan-Veleki, burst forth their summons to the inhabitants to repair to the
different churches, to hear the service preparatory to the supposed Resurrection. Towards the con
clusion of the service, the whole congregation, with the Priests at their head, bearing the Cross and
incense, and each holding a wax-taper in his hand, march three times, in procession, round the
church, as if they were looking for Our Saviour. While this is passing, the Image of Our Saviour is
removed from the tomb, where it had been deposited on the Friday, to the front of the altar. After
the
138 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Moldavia. So on the Eve of Saturday of the Six Lauds, and on the Saturday of
Lazarus, they assembled in large congregations. On the day of the Feast of
Palms, early in the morning, our Lord the Patriarch distributed to the Assistants
twigs of the branches of trees which had shot their leaves, with wild white
flowers which they had brought from the fields ; and performed mass on this
day also. On Great Wednesday they made a torch for the Beg ; that is, the Me
tropolitan of the city, and the Presidents of the Prince's convents, according to
custom. On Great, or Holy, Thursday, the Beg sent his coach at break of day ;
and we passed to the Church of the Corta, for the ceremonies of ablution and
mass. Then we vested and robed our Lord the Patriarch,, as usual : and when
they had struck the large bell, he came and stood at his throne, having in front
of him the Metropolitan of the town. Then they began, first, to cleanse the
vessel of ablution ; afterwards, they set a very long chair before the north choir,
for the Priests to sit on. Then they set another small chair before the great
candlestick, on the north side, for Judas : for they brought forward a reverend
Friar of great age and extremely poor, whose poverty induced him to take on
himself this despicable character, as he afterwards received a present from the Beg.
His figure, face, and beard, and his filthy cap (<x*jj) falling down on his eyes, dissi
pated the melancholy of those who looked on him, by the laughter they excited.
Him alone they clothed in a tattered OsXc^oi/, and made him sit on the aforesaid
chair. Then they set in the middle a kind of desk, a large table covered with
baize ; and arranged on it a silver basin, and a silver ewer with its cover, re-
the lapse of a few minutes, the doors of the Sanctuary arc thrown open ; when the Priests come forth,
exclaiming three times, ' Christ is risen !' The people now eagerly advance to kiss the Cross ; at which,
each presents the Priest with an egg or a piece of money, whichever suits his means or inclination
This concluded, the whole retire to their respective homes.
" At six o'clock, the morning service commences ; when each person brings with him a cake, and
a quantity of curds ; the latter made into a pyramidal form, and marked with one or more figures of
the Cross. These, at the end of the service, are blessed by the Priest; who either takes off a portion of
the cake for himself, or receives a small piece of money in lieu of it. With the consecrated food, the
pious Christian then returns home, and enjoys his breakfast: after which, he is at liberty to make any
compensation to his stomach which he pleases, for the rigidity of his previous fasting. The lower
orders avail themselves so freely of this permission, that the results not unfrequently prove fatal.
" The above is the only service of this happy day ; the remainder of which is devoted to pleasure,
and enjoyment of visiting their friends, and driving about the city with every variety of equipage :
even the tinker and the tailor sport their carriages on the occasion. The bells are ringing the whole
of the day; while groups of people animate the streets, presenting eggs of various kinds and colours
to their friends, and saluting them with the joyful tidings of ' Christos voskos ' — 'Christ is risen!'
answered by the equally gratulatory response, ' Voustinno voskos ' — ' Truly He is risen !' '''
HOLMAN'S Travels, Vol. I. p. 251.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1:^(j
sembling a cup, on one side; and others like them, on the other, containing water
for ablution. Then came the Metropolitan of the town, with the two Fimaros of
the church; and they received from our Lord the Patriarch his assent to go and
select the Priests delegated to perform the ablution, who all put on the robes
peculiar to the Priesthood ; and the Metropolitan came and stood at his chair, in
the north choir. Then the two Fimaros went out from the Tabernacle, with two
Priests between them, in their copes, all in a line, walking in one rank up to the
Patriarch, to whom they made a respectful obeisance, and then to the Metropo
litan. These two they placed, sitting on the long chair, near Judas ; and then
they entered the Tabernacle. Afterwards they came with two others, and did
in like manner ; seating them on the chair near the preceding, till they had
completed five couples, that is, ten persons. The Heads of the Prince's con
vents were seated last. Then they brought forward the Bishop of Botza, and
made him Peter ; and seated him, last of all, by himself. Then the singers began
to chaunt the service of ablution, according to the Ritual, from beginning to end.
These singers belonging to the Beg always attended service, either in his
church, or at home in his palace : and in the right-hand choir they chaunted
in Greek ; on the left, in Wallachian.
Then I began the reading of the Gospel, without the door of the Taber
nacle, where they had placed a desk for that purpose, before the candlestick.
When I had done, the Patriarch stood up, and put off his vestments ; and they
took from him his Sako and 'n^o^/o*. Then he provided himself with a
towel; and they girt him with a cotton apron. Having come down from his
throne, he began to wash the feet of Judas first; and went on, till he had
ended with Peter, to whom he said what is written. When this part of the
ceremony was finished, they brought the basin, and set it in its place on the
table ; and when the Patriarch had resumed his Sako, he descended from his
throne, and, approaching the basin, made the three customary Mtrwoias :
then he put his fingers in the water, and signed between his eyes the form of
the Cross. Afterwards, the Metropolitan of the city came and did likewise, and
all the Priests in attendance, and all the Grandees, two and two, till all had
finished. Then I took the basin, and, with the Minister, ascended the steps to
the Beg, that he might cross himself from it : on doing which, he made a pre
sent to the Minister. After all the Beg's attendants, also, had crossed them
selves, we descended ; and they began the mass.
On this occasion, all the Grandees present in the church begged our Lord
140 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the Patriarch to read over them the Prayer of Absolution ; and they threw
themselves on the ground before him, during the recital. It may be remarked,
that not one of them ever came to the church without, in the first place,
paying their visit to our Lord the Patriarch, and kneeling down to him, and
kissing his hand : then each went to stand in his place.
At the "A%tov lo-riv, the Beg came down, and stood at his throne : and
at the offering of the cup, he descended to kiss the images ; and entered the
Tabernacle, whilst his attendants supported his arms, until he came near to
the Patriarch, to receive his blessing. Then he passed to his chair : and all
the Grandees came to kiss the images, and to approach the Patriarch for his
blessing, in like manner. After this, the Patriarch distributed to them the
'Avr/&yf« ; and we partook of the boiled meat, and the service was concluded.
The Beg and they still continued standing at their chairs, till our Lord the Pa
triarch entered the Tabernacle, and put oft' his sacerdotal robes ; substituting for
them the Ma^Ja, as is the constant practice here ; and then walked out before
the Beg to his palace, when he imparted to him his blessing, and to his at
tendants. Then we returned to our convent in the afternoon.
On the Eve of Great Friday (Good Friday) they performed great Vigils from
the beginning of the evening until the sixth hour of the night, and all was
done in a slow chaunt : so also on the Saturday of Lights, which this year fell
in with the Feast of the Annunciation, they arose from then* beds whilst there
was yet much of night ; and at dawn of day they went out in procession, and
paraded the whole town, through all the streets. After we had gone forth from
mass on this day, the children ceased not to make a noise with rattles and
metal bells, which they continued throughout the night, according to custom :
for the people slept not at all on this Eve of the Passover. The boys of every
street and district assembled, at their convent, or the church within their
parish, and lighted fires in the court-yard ; raising a merry tumult, and playing
their rattles, until the sixth hour of the night, when the bells were rung in all
the churches and convents, and they began prayers ; except only in the Church
of the Corta. After they had performed the ' ' Avd<rra,ffi$ as usual, they left the
church yet early in the morning, but returned quickly to perform and assist at
mass. After we had attended this early 'Avatrrafftg, the Beg sent his coach, and
we rode to the Corta. Then we vested the Patriarch in his sacerdotal robes ;
and the Beg came down to the church and stood at his throne, and they
blessed him. Then they went out before us to the esplanade of the palace, in
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 141
front of the church ; and they set a chair for the Beg in the centre, with another
on the left-hand for our Lord the Patriarch, and one near it for the Metropo
litan. On this side stood all the Clergy and Monks in their ranks, and, in a large
circle round, all the State Grandees : and you might see, at this moment, a
variety of rich dresses of the brightest colours, all edged with sables to a great
amount. Then they set a large reading-desk in the middle, covered with baize,
with the Gospel laid on it. Afterwards they distributed large tapers to all pre
sent : first, to the Beg a gilt taper, which the armour-bearer held ; then to the
Patriarch and the Metropolitan. And now the Corta was filled with troops, all
armed with cross-spears and muskets. Then I took the censer, and incensed
the Patriarch, saying, EyAoy^ov AsWora ; and he took it, and threw incense
round the desk and the Gospel, saying Xgitrrog aviffr'/i three times. Then he
incensed the Beg, and the Metropolitan, and the Priests, and the rest of the
persons present, and came and stood at his chair : and the singers began
the appointed Psalms ; then the Canon ; one choir in Greek, the other in Walla-
chian. And the Patriarch recited the first Declaration : then the Metropolitan
threw incense, standing in his place, and recited the second Declaration. In
like manner the Bishops and Great Heads of Convents, till the completion of the
Canon, used each the thurible, and each of them recited a Declaration. There
was no opening the door, as with us ; for a church cannot contain the forces of
a whole nation ; and for this reason the service was performed out of doors. At
the end of the Canon, our Lord the Patriarch advanced, and kissed the book of
the Gospel ; and he carried it towards the Beg, who came into the middle and
knelt down, and kissed the Gospel, with the Patriarch's right-hand : and the
Patriarch said to him ILgurrog UVIITTTI, and kissed his forehead three times. At
this moment all the troops fired their muskets, so that the ground shook and our
ears were deafened. Then he finished the service ; and they brought him his
chair, and placed it near the Beg on his right ; and he sat down, holding the
Gospel in his hands. And now the Metropolitan came to take a blessing from
the Gospel ; and he kissed the Patriarch's hand, saying Xgurrog avi<rrv : then he
passed to the Beg, and kissed the Cross, on his right-hand, of pure gold set with
pearls and precious stones, and said the same to him : and the Beg kissed his
forehead, and he went to sit in his chair on the left of the Beg. Then first came
the Bishops, then the Heads of Convents, and the rest of the Clergy and Monks,
and kissed the Gospel in the hands of the Patriarch first, then his hand, saying
Xgi<rro$ avwrq ; and passed to the Beg, to kiss his cross and breast, saying the
like words. Afterwards they went to the Metropolitan, and arranged themselves
U
142 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
near him. And all the Grandees entered according to their rank, and all the
rest of the persons present, and did in like manner. It was late in the morning
before we finished, and then the Beg went up to his palace.
For our parts, we entered the church, to mass ; during which we read three
Gospels : one was read by our Lord the Patriarch, within the Tabernacle, in
Greek ; another by the Metropolitan, in Wallachian ; and I read the third, in
Arabic. As soon as I had done, I was seized with a fit of the horrors, which
continued upon me until evening, caused by the intense cold which prevailed.
I went into the Tabernacle, and, taking off my ^ny^^iov, slept in it. Then
we went forth to the banquet, I being in the most wretched condition : whilst
all the rest were in festivity, I was in trouble and in an ague.
On this day there was a large meeting, and the world was illuminated ; the
spring now coming forth with its verdure. The cannon were fired repeatedly,
and the muskets were discharged : then was drinking of large bumpers ; then
drums, and pipes and fifes, and other musical instruments, were played ; then was
singing and masquerading &c. ; and last of all there was a distribution of robes :
after which we returned, in the coach, to our convent, attended by the Sakams
and the Darrabs who fired their muskets, and the pioneers and singers, who
departed, when they had received their fee.
During this week they say mass early in the morning, at break of dawn ; and
strike the large bells every morning and evening : and there is no buying or
selling, nor opening shops, with the exception of those of the butter-sellers, the
butchers, and other victuallers.
It is remarkable, that one of the customs of this country is, that on every
Thursday after Easter they perform a Litany and Procession outside the town,
round the walls, with the banners and images, and the Priests in their robes, ac
companied by the Beg and his troops ; and they become an immense assemblage.
This is in honour of the past Holy Thursday, and as an adieu to it; and at the
same time an advancing to the reception of Ascension Thursday.
SECT. VIII.
TORGHISIIT.— DEATH OF MATTHI BEG.
FOR the last two years, Matthi Beg of Wallachia had become indolent, being
now an old man, and having no strength to go forth at all from the city walls :
but on the Thursday in Easter Week he sent to fetch the Patriarch, in his
coach ; and we entered the church, and robed. After we had clothed the
TRAVELS OP MACARIUS. 143
Patriarch in his sacerdotal vestments,, they set the vessel for the holy water on
its stand ; and his Holiness made an ' Aytourpog ; with which we went up to the
Beg, and sprinkled him. Then we disrobed, and ascended to the banquet :
after which the Beg dismissed us with leave of absence, for we had formed the
intention of a journey into the interior of the country. We returned therefore
to the convent, and hastened to get ready the necessaries for the road. The
Beg sent to our Patriarch only the usual present ; as he had become, at his latter
end, extremely avaricious ; and loved the Turks and Tartars with vehement
affection, so as to bestow all his wealth on them. Every person that came to
him from them, he used to clothe in a robe of sables ; hating at the same time
the Priests and Monks, and Heads of Convents, who came to him to solicit an
alms according to the measure he had appointed them at first ; and sending
them away disappointed.
This week the news came that the Emperor of Moscow had sent an
Ambassador on his way to him with large presents ; and he immediately sent to
turn him back, saying, " Do not let me see his face :" for he hated the whole
race of the Cossacks and the Muscovites extremely ; and at the time of the
defeat of Vasili and Timotheus the son of Akhmil, he slew of the Cossacks a
great slaughter, and made a still greater number prisoners. And when the
Aga of the Khazana was coming to him, and he went out to meet him, he cut off
the heads of many Cossacks before him, telling him that it was out of hatred to
them and love to their persecutors : he sent also by him a number of prisoners, in
irons, to the Vazir, to be employed in the gallies. When the Vazir asked them
what they were, and they answered " We are Cossacks of the army of Akhmil,
and were defeated in Wallachia," he immediately gave them clothes of red
woollen, and some money, and sent them awray to their own country, to
Akhmil ; because between the Turks and him there existed great friendship, and
the intercourse of negotiation had not been interrupted between them. Upon
this there arose a great enmity between Akhmil and his Cossacks and Matthi Beg
of Wallachia : and when the envoy from Moscow was turned back, it increased
more and more ; for which reason the people of Wallachia were all in fear and
dread of Akhmil and the Cossacks up to this time, and every day a report was
spread, " The Cossacks are come ! they are setting fire to the country." At
night they slept not : so that the Emperor's subjects who had been oppressed by
him to the utmost and fled from his territory assembled, together with Matthi's
troops and all his Grandees, for the purpose of killing him, saying : "How
is this ? Since the most ancient times, until now, no Ambassador had ever come
hither from our country, and you must needs take this first opportunity to
1 14 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
reject the person sent !" But the Almighty interfered with His providence, and
took the Beg to himself; for this week he fell ill of the sickness of death,
having become c]uite decrepit, and worn out.
On New, or Low Sunday, our Lord the Patriarch said mass in the Church of
the Convent of the Merchants ; and in the morning of the Sunday of the Women
(iipux!)*, Matthi Beg of Wallachia breathed his last, having governed three and
twenty years. During the first period of his reign he was much devoted to
charity and good works ; and his own bounties and foundations alone, in this
province, amount to one-hundred-and-fifty convents and churches, magnificently
built of stone ; one of which is the Episcopal or Cathedral Church of Botza.
Before his breath was departed, Kyr Ignatius, the Metropolitan of the city,
came ; and all the Grandees assembled in the first place, and held a council :
then they elected, without delay, an Archon, who was called Constantine Efendi-
kopulo, that is, of the race of the Efendis the Begs. He was the son of Shraban,
who was formerly Voivoda of Wallachia. Then they went forth from the church,
to the outside of the palace ; and the Metropolitan ascended to a high place, and
said to the people : " Your Efendi is deceased : whom therefore do you wisli
that we should raise in his place, to be Governor over you?" The cry of the
Grandees, the army, and the whole people, with one voice, was, " We will have
none but Constantine, son of Shraban, for Voivoda." And they arose with
excited spirits to support their voice : for Constantine' s election to the sove
reignty was from God ; many of the State Grandees having seen him, in their
sleep, standing at the Beg's chair in the church. This man was previously
second Commander of the army, in the time of Matthi Beg.
Matthi had a nephew by his sister, whom he made Mgyaj 2crara^?, or
Commander-in-chief of all the troops ; and as long as Matthi lived, his
nephew's greatness, and dignity, and pomp were much. We used constantly,
whenever he came from his own house to the Corta, to see him attended,
before and behind, by more than five or perhaps six hundred troopers ; and
in like manner at his departure. This is the person who came with the Walla-
chian and Hungarian bands, in company with Stephani Beg of Moldavia, the
first time, at the Festival of Easter, when they wished to capture Vasili Voivoda ;
for his uncle, Matthi Beg, sent him secretly, in such a manner that not one
knew it of the whole body of his Grandees ; who would have put them both to
death at once if they had perceived it, and would not have allowed them to
move against the state a dwelling evil. At most times, Matthi Beg was desirous
* This is the second Sunday after Easter, called, iii the Greek Calendar, 'H Ki/p<«x»; T
v understood.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 145
to make him Beg in his stead, and employed all kinds of artifices to effect it :
but no one would consent to it, either of the Grandees or the peasants, because
of the pride of his mind.
This Constantine, the son of Shraban, Voivoda, was under him as second
Commander. It is the custom here among the Grandees, that when two
of them meet who are of equal rank, they do not take off their calpacks ;
but if one is higher in dignity than the other, the inferior personage uncovers.
This Constantine used to stand before his Aga, the Commander-in-chief,
always with his head covered. One day the Aga scolded him ; saying,
" Why do you stand before me without uncovering your head?" He replied,
" I am of the blood of the Begs ; but you are a common man, son of such a
one : I do not uncover my head before you." The Aga was enraged at this
speech, and went and threw down his sword before the Beg his uncle ; who,
as soon as he was informed of the whole affair, deposed this Constantine from
his rank. He immediately retired to his palaces and estates, which his fathers
had built and planted for him in their life-time, in various parts of the province ;
and dwelt there until now. When Matthi Beg fell sick, this person came,
without any knowledge of the circumstance, to the city of Torghisht, on business ;
and what we have described took place on his election to the sovereignty.
As to the aforesaid Chief Commander, the news came to him in the holiday-
week that his son was in the agony of death, in a village distant from the city :
and whilst he was gone to see him, his uncle died in his absence. This had
been the course of events.
SECT. IX.
TORGHISHT.— ELECTION OF CONSTANTINE.
THEN the crier proclaimed through the city, and all the inhabitants assembled
and came to the Corta, agreeing, with one voice, in the election of Constantine :
who, on hearing the news, was afraid and hid himself : but they sought him out,
and brought him forward in spite of his fears. Then they took him into the
church ; and the Metropolitan put on the entire sacerdotal dress ; and they in
troduced him into the Tabernacle of God ; saying thrice, Kihsvtrov, x&XzvtraTt,
x&svo-ov AeWora. Then he bent his knees ; and the Metropolitan said over
him the prayer H^^lil viz. " The Grace of God, which at all times cures the
diseased and perfects the deficient, has raised our brother Kyr Constantine from
the rank of Military Commander, to the exalted rank of Civil Governor of the State.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Let us now therefore pray for him,, that the grace of the Spirit of all Holiness
may come upon him." We exclaimed., three times, "A%iog\ and they chaunted
it without the Tabernacle, and within. Then they took off his clothes ; and put
on him the royal robes, consisting of an under-vestment of rich brocade, and a
coat worn over it of the like stuff lined with furs and sables, and a calpack of
the highest-priced sable, with a band of gold set with precious stones of great
value and befitting kings. Then they took him up to the chair of the Begs,
and seated him there : and they all came and kissed his hand ; first the Metro
politan, then the Clergy, and the Heads of Convents present ; next came the
Grandees of State one by one, and all the superior officers of the army. It was
something wonderful, that, of so many thousands of persons, all were, with one
voice, content with him ; and not one said, No. His session on the throne took
place in the morning of the Sunday of the Women (s^Jo1), which was the ninth
of the month Nisfm. He immediately sent fish, &c. to our Lord the Patriarch,
and asked his prayers ; for he had been a friend of ours previously. And after
all the rich men and the merchants had been fearing, lest, on the death of
Matthi Beg, his troops would plunder the town, the Lord immediately granted to
it tranquillity : and all with one voice said, " This blessing of peace is not come
to us, but because of the presence of the Patriarch of Antioch among us, and
the delay of his journeying away from us until now." We had indeed determined
since the Monday after Low Sunday to set out on our travels ; and our deten
tion was from God, that we might witness what occurred.
On the morning of Monday after the second Sunday of the Women, the new
Beg, Kyr Constantine, sent his coach, and invited our Lord the Patriarch
to his palace, with great honour, and a large party of soldiers walking before and
behind him with their arms in their hands. Then we took the road of the Corta;
and we found the avenues, and the streets, and all the space within the Corta,
filled with the military and the people. Then we entered the church, and put on
our vestments ; and we robed the Patriarch in his sacerdotal attire, together with
the Metropolitan ; and they stood at their chairs. Then the Beg came down,
and stood at his chair; and our Lord the Patriarch blessed him as he stood erect,
and knelt down to him, and kissed his hand. Matthi Beg knew no language
whatever except his own, the Wallachian ; but this man not only knew his own
language, the Wallachian, but also the Greek and the Turkish, and also the
Hungarian : there was no occasion for an interpreter between him and our
Lord the Patriarch : — for during this length of time we had possessed ourselves
to the utmost of the Greek Language, by our conversation with its people ; most
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 147
of the inhabitants of Wallachia and Moldavia, and all the merchants, being
Greeks. Then all the Grandees assembled in the church,, and the Officers of the
Army, the Captains, and the Majors and Colonels, and the other ranks of the
Military, in the Corta. And now they set up two reading-desks in the church ;
one before the candlestick on the right, the other before that on the left; and
adorned them with covers. On each of them they placed the book of the
Gospel, gilt and ornamented with a cross of gold. In front of the one on the
right stood the Patriarch ; near the other, on the left, stood the Metropolitan.
And now they began to administer an oath to all the Grandees and Ministers
of the Corta. Near to each desk stood a TguppuTixog or Writer, attending on
the Prelate, and each holding in his hands a written paper. The first who
came in were the principal Grandees. All laid their hands on the Gospel and the
Cross, and the Scribe read his paper, thus : " You swear on this Holy Gospel
and this Venerable Cross, that you will be with Kyr Constantine Voivoda,
son of Shraban Voivoda, one heart and one counsel,, obeying him, acting sin
cerely with him both in open and in secret, not concealing from him any thing-
suitable to be known, as long as he lives, and as long as you live ; and that you
will not be treacherous to him, nor act against him." At every word they
answered " Yes." " And should you prove treacherous or conspire against him,
or be insincere and unfriendly with him, you shall be excommunicated and
separated, by the Holy Trinity and the Seven Holy Councils, and by the mouth
of our Lord the Patriarch, Kyr Macarius of Antioch ; and what fell upon the
Assyrians, and upon Sodom and Gomorrah, and upon Judas and upon Arius,
shall fall on you; and your part shall be with Hanan and Cayafa, and the
crucifiers of Christ." And they said, " Amen, Amen, Amen," to every clause.
Then they all kissed the hand of our Lord the Patriarch ; and afterwards passed
on to approach the Beg, who was standing at his chair ; and having kissed his
hand and the lappet of his garment, they departed.
In the mean time the Metropolitan was carrying on the like ceremony, and the
rest of the Grandees continued to come in ; afterwards the servants of the Beg
and of the Corta, and all the children of the Treasury, in their ranks : they all
took the oath, with their whole hearts, and with one voice. Then came in the
Officers of the Army : first, the Commander-in-chief of the Forces ; then the
Aga, that is, the Aga of the Sakams ; next, the Captain ; then the rest of the
Captains and Yeuzbashis, and the troops, in their ranks : every Captain came
in with his company, and every Yeuzbashi with his squad. At the end, all of
them kissed the hand of our Lord the Patriarch, then that of the Beg and the
148 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
hem of his garment, and retired. In this way they continued until the approach
of noon : and as yet one wing even of the army (God bless it!) had not come
in, before we were overcome with fatigue, and lost our recollection. At last
the Almighty granted us relief, and the rest of them were put off till the morrow
and following days. For from the moment that the Beg had taken his seat on
the throne, they immediately sent the Calarashes, or Messengers, to inform
the whole Principality of his elevation ; and you might have seen thousands of
persons hastening every day to the Corta, for the space of forty days : and all
the Presidents of the Convents, and the Priests and Monks, even the Bishops,
attended during these days, and made their congratulations to the new Beg.
As for the troops, they were a long time administering to them the oath :
and at last they grew weary of the ceremony. The Beg, therefore, sent the
new Commander of the Army, with his troops, round to all the burghs, to swear
the people in ; for (the blessing of God be on the dominions of the Beg of Wal-
lachia!) they consist of more than four hundred thousand houses.
SECT. X.
TORCH ISHT— FUNERAL OF MAT Til I BEG.
AFTERWARDS we went forth from the church to the funeral of the deceased
Matthi Beg. And now they erected the great Pavilion on the esplanade of the
Corta, and placed there a chair for the Beg ; next to which they set another
chair for our Lord the Patriarch on the left, with another for the Metropolitan.
On the same side stood all the rest of the Bishops present, together with the
Heads of Convents, the Priests, the Deacons, and the Monks, to the number of
about one thousand persons. Presently the Grandees formed a large circle round ;
and the remaining space was filled up by the armed troops and the common
people. Then they took our Lord the Patriarch, and us with him, and we went
up to pray over the corpse of the deceased, accompanied by the new Beg.
We found Matthi in the apartment where he used to give his banquets
on the most joyful occasions, laid out on the table, with his face uncovered,
according to their custom ; and clothed in his royal robes of rich brocade, lined
with high-priced sables, and set with buttons of gold and silver gilt. On his
head was his sable calpack of great value : he was entirely covered with a kind
of winding-sheet of white satin, with a cross of gold-leaf from the top of his
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 149
head to his feet. Round him were candles, and all the wives of the Grandees
weeping and lamenting over him. Then our Lord the Patriarch incensed him,
and said over him the Prayer of the Winding-sheet, and the other supplications :
and we went down before him ; and they now placed him in the bier in the court,
and then in the middle under the Pavilion ; and the Beg stood at his chair.
Next they distributed the large tapers ; first to the Beg ; then to our Lord the
Patriarch and the Metropolitan, to the rest of the Heads of Convents, and the
Priests and Monks, and poor people ; then to the Grandees, and all the rest of
the assistants, till the world was in commotion with the smoke and vapour.
Then I, the Archdeacon of Antioch, took the censer, and incensed towards our
Lord the Patriarch, saying EyXoyjj<r0i> AsWora : then he incensed towards the
bier, saying EuXoyriroc : and the singers began, " Have mercy on me, O God,0
and the Beatitude ; then the Canon of Easter, one choir chaunting in Greek,
the other in Wallachian. Then he incensed the Beg and the Metropolitan and
the Priests; afterwards the Grandees and the rest of the assistants, and a second
time the bier. Then he made a cross on his forehead, as usual, and came and
stood at his chair ; and at the end of the first Ao'fa of their Beatitude, I said,
" Have mercy on us, O God ! according to thy great mercy : we pray thee,
hear us and have mercy. Again we pray for the repose of the soul of the
servant of God, the Prince, a lover of Christ, Matthi Voivoda, and for the
remission of his sins, both voluntary and involuntary," &c. Then our Lord the
Patriarch said the first Declaration, and threw the incense towards the Metropo
litan as usual, then to the Bishops, and afterwards to the Heads of Convents : and
every time the Deacon said " Have mercy on us, O God," the person who incensed
recited the Declaration, until the time of the Gospel, when our Lord the
Patriarch went up to the corpse, and then read it, the wives of the Grandees all
kneeling round. Then he read for the deceased the Prayer of Absolution,
TW 'Elfflv ^vyfcugeriKnv ; and the kissing was performed. First, the Patriarch
kissed the corpse, then the Metropolitan, afterwards the Beg, who wept in the
midst of joy ; and the Bishops and Priests, two and two : and to all were
distributed abundant alms, in handkerchiefs. Then the Grandees entered,
weeping, and the rest of the nobility, two and two. Afterwards they raised the
body, and carried it all round the church ; the Priests following in couples,
according to their rank. Then they carried it into the second Na^f of the
church ; and buried it opposite to the deceased's wife, the Domina, and his son.
Here the Patriarch read a second time over him the Prayers of Absolution ; and
they placed him in a coffin made and ornamented in the manner befitting
X
150 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
kings. It was near the middle of the afternoon when we retired,, almost dead
with fatigue and standing. Then they conducted us to the banquet of the
Beg, and he and the Patriarch sat feasting till the evening. The Beg was very
open-hearted and cheerful with his visitor, and distributed dresses among us.
We returned home in great honour, more handsomely than before, in the Beg's
coach ; attended by the troops, the pioneers, and the singers, to the convent.
SECT. XI.
TORGHISHT.—INA UGURAL PROCESSION.
AFTER we had already fully determined on resuming our journey, the new Beg
intreated the Patriarch, as a favour, that he would stay with him the space of
one month, and promised him a gratuity as before; for he loved him with great
affection, as he had become Beg during his visit and under his eye, and his pre
sents to him of all kinds of eatables were never interrupted on any single day,
being over and above the fixed allowance we received during the time of the
deceased Beg.
On the morning of the first Thursday since his accession, the new Beg began
the performance of the Litany or Procession outside the town, according to the
practice of Wallachian Princes ; and he sent to take us up in his coach,
attended by a large body of troops ; and we entered the church, and vested, and
robed our Lord the Patriarch in his sacerdotal vestments. Then he went into
the Tabernacle, and incensed the table round about, saying X^/erro? avzo-ry :
and then they began the service for Easter, the chaunters answering as usual
from without, after he had incensed the Beg and the Congregation. Then
followed the 'Ava(rra<rsw$ 'Hptga, till the time of the great 2 wafers, which I
recited, mentioning the name of the new Beg. Then they began the Canon, in
a pleasing chaunt on the NfaX-n^a; and we went forth from the church as the
troops fired the great guns. The Beg and our Lord the Patriarch walked
together, preceded by all the Clergy of the town, in their robes and with their
crosses, two and two. The great bell had been sounding since the evening
before until now, as a signal for the assembling of the Priests and the people for
this affair. The banners of the churches, with their crosses, were moving in
couples, at the head of all ; and the standards of war, crossed also, were there,
without number. Thousands of armed men under their Commanders, and the
State Grandees, walked before the Beg and the Patriarch ; and I, with the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1.31
^J&J in my hands, walked near them. Then we went forth from the Corta,
and directed our course towards the streams of water running through the town,
and passed over a very long bridge of wood. Then they proceeded on the
march the length of Aleppo and Ain Attil, or about that of Damascus and the
Cabon ; and we walked very slowly and leisurely, whilst the Greek and Walla-
chian chaunters performed the Canon, &c. in the Psalter. Then we arrived at
a spacious green meadow ; the grass having sprung up during this week, after
the melting of the snow : and they set a chair for the Beg, at which he took
his station ; and another for our Lord the Patriarch. In the middle they placed
a kind of reading-desk, large, and covered with cloth ; on which they set cups,
and a basin and ewer of silver, filled with water. Then I threw incense towards
our Lord the Patriarch ; saying, EvXoyqtrov AsWora : and he incensed round the
water, saying EvXoyqro; ; afterwards he incensed the Beg and the rest of the
assistants, the Grandees having formed a large circle around. The banners and
standards were ranged behind them ; and the Priests in front of them, all round
the circle. Then the singers began the great Canon of the 'Ay^a^off, and our
Lord the Patriarch recited the Gospel. I said the SyysTsre. Then they spread
for our Lord the Patriarch a carpet before the water, and another before the
chair of the Beg ; and the Patriarch knelt down on his knees, and all the people
bent down to the ground, and first of all the Beg. Then the Patriarch said
the Prayer for Rain, according to the custom with them, and afterwards the
Prayers of the ' Ayiua-pog : and at the words, " Preserve, O Lord ! our Princes
who believe in thee," he said, " And preserve, O Lord ! thy servant the Prince,
a lover of Christ, Ivano Constantino Voivoda." Then they all rose ; and he
dipped the cross in the water, whilst the singers chaunted. Then he sprinkled
on the four sides : and when he sprinkled the Beg, and the latter kissed the
cross, the troops fired their muskets. Afterwards, he sprinkled the Clergy and
the Grandees : and we returned the way we came, with the singers chaunting,
and amidst the discharge of musketry, until we entered the Corta and the church,
and took off our robes. The Beg took our Lord the Patriarch to the banquet :
and on this day there came on most precious rain ; and the Beg, both in going
and returning, distributed silver coin of the Bannat, in great quantities, to the
soldiers and the poor ; as he did also to those who brought him presents. For,
from the moment of our departure from the Corta, until we returned to it, the
women came first with cloths of cotton, and spread them before the Beg : then
they poured over him grains of wheat and barley, &c. according to their custom,
152 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
as this was the beginning of the new year and of a new Beg : and the Cama-
rashes, that is, the officers of the Treasury, stood near him to pour on the cloth
silver coin of the Bannat, which the women collected, and retired. Others
presented to him dried ears of wheat, others apples, others plums, others white
flowers and green branches of trees, others lemons and oranges, others eggs,
others fish, others fowls and ducks and geese, others small lambs (^UpO, others
kids, and some slew before him heads of sheep. To all these the Camarash
gave silver coin, in strips of fine linen ; and in the evening the Beg distri
buted robes to the Priests, and to us dresses of satin (>*^). To the State Gran
dees he gave brocaded silk and velvet, and embroidered cloth, &c. ; and we
returned in great honour, in the coach, to our convent.
SECT. XIL
WALLACHIA.— PRODUCE TO GOVERNMENT.
IT should be known,, that in the provinces of Wallachia and Moldavia there
are mines of salt, which they cut out, in large stones, from the mountain, and
from caves under the ground. It is like the hard black stone of Aleppo ; but
when pounded, it becomes like snow ; and in this state the women are constantly
selling it in the streets. The work of mining it is very hard ; and any person
with whom the sovereigns of these countries is offended, they send to hew the
salt rock; as is a well-known fact.
In this province of Wallachia is a beautiful mine of copper, which they bring
out, in the shape and appearance of black stone, from wells or shafts, very deep
under ground : from this they manufacture a very fine copper. Here also are
many mines of silver and gold : only they do not make them known, for fear of
the Turks, and from the abundance of their wealth. The Domina, indeed,
consort of the Beg, is accustomed every year to take a thousand pieces of gold
from the people, by way of quit-rent, for the privilege of gathering that metal
from the streams which flow by Torghisht ; and this is a thing well known.
To return : the Metropolitan of the town was not present at this time ; the
Beg having sent him on an embassy to the Pasha of Silistria, Siyavish, who had
been Vazir, and who put to death the Valida, and Bekdash Aga, and others.
They deposed him, in consequence, from his dignity ; and gave him the Pashalik
of Silistria, which is a very large government. He has the superintendence
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 153
over the Begs of Moldavia and Wallachia ; and no application can be made to
the Court of Istambol, but through him, and with his consent. Then the Beg
sent to Constantinople a body of his Grandees of State, to bring him the throne
and the banner, according to the mode of proceeding with the Begs. They
went, therefore, and took with them a petition ; signed first by the hand of the
Metropolitan ; then by the Bishops and all the Heads of Convents, and impressed
with their seals ; then by the Grandees and the rest of the people ; saying, " We
have willed Constantine the son of Shraban for Voivoda, and have raised him
as Beg over us." As soon as they arrived at Constantinople, his Highness the
Sultan (God preserve him !) gave his consent, as did also Dervish Mohammed
Pasha the Vazir, and the other Ministers of State ; and they granted them the
inheritance of Matthi the deceased Beg, and the accession of the new Beg, and
the possession of the revenue, for one thousand five hundred purses, that is,
seven hundred and fifty thousand piastres ; and for this sum they gave them the
throne and the banner, and sent with them a Capigi, to collect the money, and
to congratulate the Beg. Immediately they fired the guns, and made great
rejoicings. The Beg had, moreover, to pay to the Pasha of Silistria and all his
suite, and to the Khan of the Tartars and his suite, about two hundred and fifty
thousand more ; in all, a million, or ten times repeated. To his troops he gave
three times the amount of their pay ; and remitted to all his subjects six months'
taxes and contributions. But the wealth left behind by the deceased Beg was
very much, being stored in houses built of stone and mortar from the foundation
to the roof. The expenditure however of Wallachia is very great ; as the deceased
Beg used to tell us, in his life-time. " It exceeds/' said he, "every year, the
whole quantity of treasure that is obtained from Egypt, and is equal to six hun
dred thousand pieces of gold ; to be paid partly to the Turk, and partly to the
Tartar, and for the maintenance of the army, and for presents, charities, &c."
On the Sunday of the Samaritan, which fell in with the Festival of St. Girgis
(George), after the Beg had begun the performance of the Litany or Procession,
according to custom, to the Church of St. Girgis, which is without the town,
the news came to him that the Metropolitan had arrived, in company with a
great Aga from the Pasha of Silistria. He hastened therefore the business he
was engaged in, to go out and meet them with a long train of attendants.
On the Sunday of the Blind Man, our Lord the Patriarch went in the coach
to the Beg, to bid him adieu : but the Beg would not give him permission to
depart. Then we went down with him, and assisted at the mass in the church.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
At the conclusion of the service, the Beg commanded the Patriarch to read
over all the Grandees and people present, and on behalf of all the rest of the
inhabitants of Wallachia in their absence, the Prayers of Absolution : and he did
so. Then they took us to the banquet, as on former occasions; and in the
evening we returned to our convent.
In the night of Tuesday the twenty-fifth of Nisan died the pious Canon
Soleiman Ibno Zzahr, our companion from Damascus, of the illness which we
brought with us from Moldavia, the hot and cold fever. It used to come on us
every two days twice or thrice ; and we were helpless of any remedy, particu
larly in the season of the cold and ice, and during the nights. No physician, no
surgeon, no drinks, no confection was there at hand to relieve us ; nothing,
save God alone : and the worst wras, that all the water of this country is
unpalatable. Our eating was cut off' altogether : one draught of water we were
compelled to allow ourselves on the mornings after our fits, by the burning of
our insides. We would have given our souls for a pomegranate : and at last we
saw some brought from Romelia, at a quarter of a dollar the couple. Every oca
of almonds cost us a piastre and a quarter, and the oca of sugar two dollars.
For this wre endured severe pains. When my companion died, my alarm and
terror were renewed. We buried him in the convent ; and a handsome
funeral was performed for him,, handsomer than those of the Wallachians, with
all their profusion of money.
On the Eve of Ascension Thursday,, the Metropolitan of the city sent to
invite our Lord the Patriarch, early in the morning, to say mass in his church,
which, as we mentioned, is named after the Ascension ; and a little later he
sent his coach for him, and we went thither. We all robed ; and when the Beg
came, our Lord the Patriarch went forth to meet him without the door
of the church, and sprinkled him with the 'Ayiatr^og ; and the Domina also
came. After mass we went out to the banquet, where the Beg seated himself,
with our Lord the Patriarch near him, and all his Grandees in attendance ;
namely, in the Summer Banquetting-room, which looks over the garden. The
Domina seated herself, with the wives of the Grandees who attended her,
in the inner room used for repasts ; and the soldiers and common people
sat in the garden, in rows, under the almond-trees,, where they were served
with wine in barrels. As to the musicians, the pipers and the drummers,
and the Turkish singers, together with the buffoons, they sat under the
awnings of the banquetting-room in the garden, within sight of the Beg. It
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 155
was a great day, and one that may reckon for an age. Towards evening they
arose from the table ; and going down to the church, they assisted at Vespers.
Then onr Lord the Patriarch went out before the Beg, to bless him at his
departure, and to give a blessing also to the Grandees and to the Domina, and to
the ladies who were with her in three coaches, each lull. Then we bade adieu
to the Metropolitan, and returned in the coach to our convent. Neither on
this day did the Beg grant permission to our Lord the Patriarch for his journey.
On the second Thursday of the Ascension, the banquet was laid for the
Bishops and the rest of the Heads of Convents in Wallachia.
In respect to the former Spatar, or Commander of the Troops, of whom we
made mention, he was, on his return from his country-house, treated by the
Beg with great kindness, and renewed and confirmed in his dignity, receiving
the honour of a formal investiture. Afterwards it came to the ears of the Beg,
that he was in the practice of uttering unsuitable language, according to his
habitual haughtiness, and vanity, and ambition. He therefore summoned him to
his presence, and deposed him from his high office, appointing a new Spatar in
his place. He then wished to put him to death ; but some persons interceded for
him, and he contented himself with splitting his nose. In this manner he threw
down the tower of his pride ; and verified the saying of the Holy Gospel, " For
with the same measure that ye mete withal, it shall be measured to you again,
and ye shall be increased : " for his uncle, that is, Matthi Beg, had slit the nose
of this Constantine Beg when he was a little boy, because of his being a Beg's
son. It is the usual understanding with them in this country, that the person
whose nose is slit remains in a sort of infamy, and is incapable of becoming
Beg : but this Constantine, after a length of time, had his nostrils re-united, and
his nose became whole. In like manner did Stephani, the new Beg of Moldavia,
when he made prisoners the son of Vasili Beg and his mother : he instantly slit
the young man's nose, that he might never come to be Beg : yet who knows but
he may ?
In this city of Torghisht are Turkish warm-baths, with handsome cupolas, on
the bank of the river. Over it is a small circulating mill, on which the water is
conducted round, to enter two closets; the one for men, containing a swimming
basin, the other for the women. In the middle chamber both the men and the
women together put off their clothes ; and then separate for their respective
apartments, the doors of which are close to each other. The heater and
manager of these baths is from Constantinople ; and he is allowed a provision of
Lazbal wood. These baths are a fief belonging to the Monastery of St. Nicolas.
15(3 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
To return : on the Great Sunday of Pentecost the Beg was occupied with
business : we therefore attended mass in our convent ; and at the conclusion of
the service they went through the ritual of the Joint Prostration ; and our Lord
the Patriarch recited the prayers in Arabic and Greek, according to custom.
SECT. XIII.
TORGHISHT.— DEPARTURE.— CONVENT OF FILYESHT1.
ON the Friday after Pentecost, our Lord the Patriarch went to take leave of
the Be"1, who received him with the Domina in a private apartment ; and he
gave absolution both to him and her, after we had robed him in his negirgu%faiov
and his '£lpo$o£u>v, and they had prostrated themselves on the ground for him
to read it over them. At this time the Beg sent us the gratuity which he had
promised us : and we had now prepared the requisites for our journey, having
been en^a^ed since Easter in getting ready what is suitable for the travelling
c? £3
retinue of a Patriarch in these countries, which must necessarily be like that of
the Bishops. We expended near six hundred piastres for the price of one-and-
twenty horses and five wagons ; for four horses to each wagon, with their harness
and other requisites, their saddles £c. and every thing that is wanted for a
vehicle. As to the coach for our Lord the Patriarch, it cost seventy piastres,
with its irons and leather coverings, and its linings of cloth &c. We now had
with us fifteen servants ; most of whom were Cossacks and Muscovites, who had
been captured in their flight by Mattlii Beg after their defeat, and were now
redeemed and set at liberty by the Patriarch.
On the Sunday of All Saints (Kuf <a*J rSv 'Ay'tuv Uavrav) we paid our last
salutations in the Church of the Convent ; and on Monday, which was the first
day of the Fast of the Apostles, we went out early to sec the Beg, when he
went forth with a vast retinue, and passed on his way to the summer residence
of the Begs, the city of Bokoresht, attended by all the Grandees and their wives,
there to meet the standard and throne brought him from the Sultan. As to
ourselves, about noon on this day, which was the twenty-second of the month
lyar, we set out from Torghisht, after we had bid our adieus to the Church, and
the Patriarch had read for all the Monks of the convent, and all the merchants,
the Prayer of Absolution. They bade us farewell outside the town : and we were
now left to the company of seven Heads of Convents from different parts of
Wallachia, who were bound for Moscow. We soon came to a mountain and
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 157
rough forest road of difficult ascent, in consequence of the floods of rain which
had fallen within a few days and had raised all the rivers and filled the moun
tain-torrents to a great height.
On the morning of Tuesday we came to the Convent of St. Nicolas, known
by the name of the Convent of the Bostanik, Kyr Constantine, our friend.
This person is said to be of the blood of the Katakozinos, Emperors of Greece :
he is a lover of good works and charities, and is partial to our countrymen and
to our Arabic language : he used to delight very much in hearing us read : the
present Beg, Kyr Constantine, was his kinsman. This Bostanik, as soon as the
new Beg, his relative, was created, obtained for his only son the employment of
Camarash, or Great Treasurer ; and resigning his own dignity, retired to his
house. This was the effect of his greatness of mind and understanding : for the
Bostanik is of himself merely an attendant, who stands in the presence of the Beg:
but he had become, therewith, Jomlat Olmolk, or Prime Minister, the director of
all the affairs of the province : and all the Grandees used to resort to his house,
to hold consultations with him ; after which he used to walk before them to the
Beg every morning in the week, and nothing was done but by his advice and direc
tion. He was a great lover of good works, and was a particular friend of ours.
He it was that built this convent entirely new, and of such a construction as to
excite the admiration of the beholder. The church has a high dome covered with
tin ; and three tabernacles, over each of which is a handsome cupola. Before the
gate is a round and wide cupola with many arches ; in the middle of which is a
pond of water, with an elevated pipe, through which the water is conducted from
a distance. There is no person in this country who has formed ponds and foun
tains of water by leading to them distant streams, except this Bostanik. This
cupola is entirely covered with paintings inside ; as, " Praise the Lord from the
heavens ;" and all kinds of animals and beasts of the earth and sea are there :
and, " Praise God in his saints ;" and the virgins are dancing, and the judges
and the old men and youths, to the beating of the drum and the tune of pipes :
and there are other similar paintings, all of which astonish you with surprise,
and are the performance of an able master, the same who wras engaged on the
painting of the convents of Vasili Beg of Moldavia. All his workmanship is in
gold on the bare wall. When you behold his performance on tablets, you are
in admiration at the lustre of the painting ; but on the wall it is incomparably
more beautiful. On the ceiling of this cupola is our Lord the Messiah, with the
nine ei;UAls (Aoy^ara ?) around him.
To the door of the church, on one side of which is the picture of Christ, and
Y
158 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
on the other the Virgin painted in leaf of pure gold, you ascend by a lofty flight
of steps. The door itself is entirely gilt over. The whole interior of the church
is newly painted, even to the highest part of the cupolas and of the ceiling. It
has the painting of the Seven Holy Councils — of our Lord the Christ riding on
a beast — of the man who fell among robbers, and the Samaritan brought him to
the inn, where he is speaking to the host with the wounded man by his side ;
and how he poured oil and wine into his wounds.
In respect to the Iconostasis of this church*, and the Symbolon, and the
Images t, they are not resembled by any but those of Vasili's convents.
* It may not be improper to insert here an account of a Grrcco-Russian Church, from Dr. Clarke's
Travels.
" The morning after our arrival, the General, who is Commander-in-chief over all the district,
including the. town of Tscherchaskoy, the metropolis, came to Oxai. The day was celebrated as a
festival, in honour of the recovery of one of the Emperor's children from the small-po\ inoculation.
He sent us an invitation to dinner ; and in the forenoon we accompanied him, with all the officers of
his staff, to a public ceremony in the church. On entering this building, we were much surprised by
its internal magnificence. The screen of the altar (the Iconostasis) was of green and gold ; and before
it was suspended a chandelier, filled with tapers of green wax. The screen, like the rest of the
church, was covered with pictures, some of which were tolerably wrell executed ; and all of them very
curious, from their singularity, and the extraordinary figures they served to represent. Here were
no seats, as in other Russian churches. The General placed himself against a wall on the right-hand,
facing the sacristy ; standing on a step covered with a carpet, and raised about four inches above the
level of the floor. We were directed to place ourselves on his right-hand. The rest of the Cossacks,
whether in their military uniform or national domestic habits, stood promiscuously in the body of
the church. The Priest, in very rich robes, with his back to the people, was elevated on a
kind of throne, placed beneath the chandelier, and raised three steps from the platform, facing the
great doors of the sacristy, which were shut. Over these doors was a picture of the Virgin ; and
before it hung, suspended by a string, two wooden angels, joined back to back, like the figures of
Janus, with candles in their hands. Whenever the doors of the sacristy were thrown open, the
wooden angels were lowered down into the middle of the entrance ; where they swung round and
round, in a most ludicrous manner.
" As the ceremony began, the Priest, standing on the throne, loosened a girdle, bound across his
breast and shoulders, on which was an embroidered representation of the Cross : this he held
between his fore-finger and thumb, repeating the service aloud, and touching his forehead with it,
while the people sang responses, and were busy crossing themselves. The vocal part of the cere
mony was very solemn ; and the clear shrill notes of children placed among the choristers, which,
rising to the dome of the church, seemed to swell and ultimately die away in the air, had a most
pleasing and sublime effect. It is the same in almost all the Russian churches ; and I know not any
thing to which I can now justly compare it, than the sounds produced by an ^Eolian harp. The
words they use are Russian, and everywhere the same, ' Lord have mercy on us ! ' We did not find
them altered even among the Cossacks; it was still ' Ghospodi pomilui ;' but trilled
' In notes with many a winding bout
Of linked sweetness long drawn out/
" At last there was an interval of silence : after which, other voices, uttering solemn airs, were
heard
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 159
The bell-tower is surprisingly handsome, with its various paintings on the out
side, done in the mortar : you would suppose they were done with coloured and
white marble, and with Mosaic stone of all shapes and hues. It is round in its
construction ; and octagonal ; having eight arches at the top, where the bells are
suspended.
There is also another new and handsome church here ; and in the row of the
Convent cloisters there is a third.
The Refectory, or Banquetting-room, is near the church, on the highest ground,
and ranges over the Monastery and the forest-glen. It is long and wide, with
many windows vaulted over. It is painted all round with suitable pictures ; and
at its further end the entire wall is covered with a description of the dread Judge
ment. On the other three walls is the circuit of heaven and earth, and the
Almighty (exalted be his name !) is on the work of the Creation : and Adam is
there, with Eve rising from his side, as he sleeps ; and all the animals, and wild
beasts, and birds, and the trees and fruits, and the products of the earth, are there ;
and how Eve took of the fruit, and gave to Adam ; and how they covered them
selves with fig-leaves ; and how, when they were banished to the earth, the Cheru
bim stood with his flaming sword ; and how the angels taught Adam to dig the
heard within the sacristy. The doors were then thrown open ; and a Priest, bearing on his head a
silver chalice, containing the consecrated bread, covered with a white napkin, made his appearance.
He was preceded by others, who advanced with censers, scattering incense over the doors of the
sacristy, the pictures, the Priests, the General, the officers, and the people. After some ceremonies,
the bread was distributed among the congregation : and those who came out of the sacristy having
retired, its doors were again closed, and prayers were read for all the Royal Family ; their names being
enumerated in a tone of voice and manner exactly like that of a corporal or serjeant at a roll-call.
Passages were also read from the Psalms ; but the method of reading, in all the Russian churches, is
ridiculous beyond description. The young Priests, who officiate, pique themselves upon a talent of
mouthing it over with all possible celerity, so as to be altogether unintelligible, even to the Russians ;
striving to give a whole lesson the appearance of a single word of numberless syllables. Some
notion may be formed of their delivery, by hearing the criers in our courts of justice administer the
oath to the jury." — CLARKE'S Travels, Vol. I. p. 266.
f " In their worship, the Russians profess not to address any image that is carved or graven, but
only such as are painted in oil-colours on wood ; the artist lying prostrate on his face while engaged
in the divine occupation. There is something very ludicrous in the mode of obtaining a saint from
the manufacturer : they do not purchase him, but call it making an exchange, or buying the sjold
and silver with which it is ornamented : these holy personages, however, are regularly exposed, like
other wares of trade. The manner in which the affair is conducted is as follows : The person who
wants a saint, after making his selection, lays on the counter what he thinks an adequate sum, which,
if the manufacturer does not consider it sufficient, is put back to him : he then from time to time
makes additions, until the other is satisfied. Such is the requisition in which these images are held,
tha* no apartment, not even a stable, is without its patron saint/'— HOLMAN'S Travels, Vol. I. p. 259.
160 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
ground with an iron spade, &c. On one wall is painted, first, the Prodigal Son,
when he received his property from his father, and journeyed into a far country ;
secondly, when he is engaged in the love of harlots ; thirdly, when he is feeding
swine, and drinking out of a pool of rain-water ; fourthly, when he came to his
father in his mean garments, and how his father kissed him with joy, and they
clothed him in princely rohes and put a ring on his hand; and the servants are
killing the fatted calf; and his elder brother is standing without the gate, asking
concerning him. There is painted also the picture of the Rich Man's Table and
Lazarus. The Rich Man is eating and drinking in joy and gladness ; whilst
Lazarus is laid at his gate, and the dogs are licking his sores. There is also the
Rich Man in hell-fire, with his finger in his mouth, addressing himself to Abraham,
who holds Lazarus in his bosom in Paradise. Besides this, there are other repre
sentations of feasts and banquettings.
This convent is built in the middle of the mountain and forest, and all round
it are numerous fish-ponds. After we had halted there an hour, we proceeded
to the village of the said Bostanik, the name of which is Filyeshti: it is large
and populous, and contains many streams of water, and gardens. We went into
the church, which is dedicated to the Assumption of our Lady, and was built
entirely new by the same Bostanik. It has a Na^^f, with outward porticoes,
which are painted all over their walls by the own hand of the master whom we
before mentioned. Here are represented, all the torments of Saint George the
Martyr — the Seven Brothers, Companions of the Cave, sleeping in it — a brazen
bull, filled with a number of Martyrs, and the soldiers lighting a fire under them—
Saint Ignatius thrown to the lions — other Martyrs, whom they are covering with
pieces of red-hot iron laid on with iron pincers &c. things that would be too
long to describe.
Having left the church, we alighted at the palace of the Bostanik, which consists
of princely buildings, that surprise the senses, and are handsomer than the city
edifices. It has a delightful warm bath of beautiful marble, to which water is
raised by wheels fixed on the river, which flows also into the orchards and gardens
by innumerable channels. The apartments in it are in exact resemblance to the
buildings of Constantinople : as, indeed, all the Wallachian Grandees have villas
which are admirable specimens of architecture. Each of them is sure to possess,
among his buildings, at least one large convent, with its many fiefs ; and they
are each of them jealous of their fellows in regard to the beauty of their struc
tures and establishments. All their ambition and pride centre here. When it
happens that one of them is deposed from his office, he comes and settles in his
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
villa and amidst his structures, with the convent in his neighbourhood,, for the
rest of his life.
We departed from this place on the Wednesday; and came at noon to a large
market-town, called Ploycshti. In the evening of Thursday we entered llotza,
which is a bishopric ; and on Friday evening we came to Ruminko.
SECT. XIV.
MOLDAVIA.— THE RIVER PRUTH.
ON the eve of the second Sunday after Pentecost, we came to Fokshan, and
passed over to the Moldavian side ; and in the afternoon of the same Sunday we
came to the river Sireht, and passed it in boats. We slept in the neighbourhood,
in a large farm-house or villa ; and on Monday we came, at noon, to Tikoj.
Thence we passed on ; and slept that night in a village which had belonged to
some Greeks, whom Vasili, during his sovereignty, had brought from Romelia.
When that happened to him which happened, their enemies, the natives of Mol
davia, plundered them and destroyed them. On Tuesday, at noon, we came to
Brlat ; and on Wednesday noon we arrived at VasilocU. We used to sleep in the
open country, for the sake of feeding the cattle ; for the summer, throughout the
whole of these countries, is (blessed be the Creator !) all spring, in consequence
of the great rains which Ml. On the morning of Thursday we came to Skcnta, :
and having passed over the difficult mountain and rough forest, we slept in the
evening near to Khalistao and the Convent of Barnoska, which is by the great
lake in the neighbourhood of Ydsh. On Friday morning we entered Ydsh ; and
alighted, as formerly, at the Convent of St. Saba. On Sunday, the third after
Pentecost, after mass, our Lord the Patriarch prepared to visit the Beg Stephani ;
and we rode in his coach to the palace, to sit at the banquet with him. We
carried to him a third present, such as we had formerly offered him ; and also to
the Domina, his consort. He then bade us adieu; and appointed eleven men of
his Calarashes, or runners, to attend us, and to carry us over the frightful
roads between this place and the confines.
On the morning of Tuesday, the sixth of Haziran, we left Yash, with the troops
preceding us : and in a couple of hours we passed the river Zayazai, which is of
great breadth, on a long wooden bridge. Then we marched on, a couple of
hours more, and crossed over the great river Pruth in boats. It is a very deep
162 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
stream, and its banks are high. Here are villages, one on each bank, the
inhabitants of which are employed in the passage of the river : their name is
Titzaviroa. We here dismissed the Calarashes who had accompanied us ; and
some others of their body went on before us. We now advanced over a long
and wide heath, uninhabited, and without water, until the evening, when we
slept near a well. Rising early the next day, we came to the top of a high
mountain and a vast forest, whence we had a view of the city of Yash. We
alighted at a village called Yajashti. From this place a different troop of
Calarashes preceded us ; and in the evening we arrived at a village, near the
forest, the name of which is Braicha : it is used as a military-hospital depot :
its air is delightful, and we slept there. In the morning we arose early ;
and passed along a vast lake, called Khalistao, long and wide. We rode on its
bank the distance of four hours ; and came, at noon, to a town, which is the
market for the lake, and is large and pleasantly situated on one side of it, named
Or/ia'L It is a Bishop's See. We passed on to the further end of the town, over
a wooden mound formed on the lake. There are streets made of branches of
trees, planted upright ; under which run streams of water, which turn their mill-
wheels. The situations of the abodes as well as the occupations of the
inhabitants are surprising. This is one of the many mounds constructed by
Vasili Beg in his time, on the ten lakes which are found in Moldavia. They were
in the practice of drawing from this lake, every year, fish that sold for three
thousand pieces of gold. Here also is a convent, built by Vasili. From this
place we departed in the morning of Friday, and came at noon to a town called
Trifeshti. This part of the country we passed over in great dread and trepida
tion and haste, for they kept saying, " The Cossacks ! the Cossacks are come to
plunder us !" and were in continual fear. Thence we came to another town,
called Sarko, where we slept. All the people of this district, from Moldavia
Proper to this place, were subdued and burnt by the Tartars, when they came
suddenly in the time of Vasili, as we before mentioned ; for the frontier of their
country, (which God devastate !) is not far hence.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 153
BOOK IV.
SECT. I.
CO SSA CK CO UNTRY. — RASHKOBA O.
WE departed early the next morning, which was Saturday the tenth of the
month Haziran ; and came to the bank of the great river Istrus, which is the
extreme frontier of Moldavia, and the first of the COSSACK COUNTRY. We passed
the stream in boats ; and our Lord the Patriarch put on his MavrJa, and in his
right-hand was his cross : for in this country of the Cossacks, and in Muscovy,
it is not usual for the blessing to be given otherwise : and in his left was his
silver crosier. He had sent them a letter the preceding evening, to inform them
of his arrival : and, as soon as we stepped out of the boat on the ground, we
raised a gilt wooden cross, which we had made in Moldavia, on the top of a red
spear of great height, for one of the Priests to carry it ; according to the practice
of this country, where no person raises the cross upon a spear except the
Patriarch. There were present to meet him some thousands of people, beyond
computation of number, on whom be the blessing of God! I am speaking of the
inhabitants of the town, the name of which is Rashkobao, which is a very large
place, entirely built on the bank of the said river. It contains a castle and
wooden fort, lined with cannon.
The first of the procession were the seven Priests, with their OgXowas and
crosses, there being seven churches in the town : then came the Deacons, with
their numerous banners and torches : after them the Sotniks or keeper of the
castle and town, and the Commander of the forces with his troops, and the people
of the choir, singing beautiful prayers with one voice. They all threw them
selves on the ground before the Patriarch, kneeling until he was conducted
into the church. There remained not one in the city, not even a little child or
infant that did not come out to meet him. We alighted at the house of an
Arch on.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
On the eve of Sunday the fourth after Pentecost, we attended the Vespers
with them, as we did also the "Ogflgov the next morning, and the Mass at noon.
And now we entered on our travail and labour and sweat and fatigue ; for all
their churches, as far as the country of the Muscovites, are void of chairs*.
There is not even a chair for the head of the Clergy. You might see them, from
the beginning of the service to the end, standing like rocks, without motion, or
unceasingly bending in their Mzravoias, whilst all sang with one voice ; even the
little children joining in the chaunt. We beheld in them acts of religion
which excited our astonishment : and God help us, for the length of their prayers
and chaunts and masses ! But nothing surprised us so much as the sweet voices
of the little boys, as they sang in company with the men, with all their heart
and might.
We observed in this people an excellent custom, which exists all over these
regions of the Russians or Cossacks ; and we were inclined to admire any good
practice that we discovered among them. All, except a very few of them,
know the prayers by heart, and the order of the service, and the chaunting,
* " No seats, pews, organs, or other vocal instruments, are ever allowed in a Greek church ; and con
sequently the whole presents one open space, with the exception of the altar, called the Sanctum
Sanctorum, into which females are never permitted to enter. In the middle of the altar stands the
Holy Table, upon which a golden or silver cross and a richly-ornamented copy of the Gospels are
always laid ; as no use of a complete copy of the Bible is ever made in their churches. They have
only extracts from the Old Testament and the Epistles ; and even many of the Clergy in the country
do not possess an entire copy of the Scriptures. The congregation do not make use of books.
" The altar is separated from the nave, or body of the church, by a screen, upon which pictures of
Our Saviour, the Virgin, the Apostles, and Saints, are always painted. This screen is called Ikonostas
(E/Kft)vo<7T«(7is) ; in the middle of which are the royal doors, which are opened and shut with great pomp
and solemnity, whenever the bishop retires or comes forth to bless the people ; which, at the conclu
sion of the service, he does, with a chandelier in each hand, one containing three, and the other two
lighted candles, which he repeatedly crosses over each other in different directions ; and, waving them
towards the congregation, he concludes a final benediction. These chandeliers are symbolical : one
alludes to the Trinity, and the other to the two natures of Christ. The vocal part of the service is
very fine, and appears to be almost a constant repetition of " Ghoapodi pomilui," " Lord have mercy
on us ! " If the Metropolitan performs the service, he leaves the church with much, and even mili
tary, state ; while rich and poor crowd round him, in order to kiss his hand.
" The inner walls and domes of the churches are covered with scriptural paintings ; which, in general,
represent the most interesting scenes of our Saviour's History. They are also ornamented with pic
tures of saints, adorned with pearls, gold, silver, and precious-stones. The glories are of the shape
of horse-shoes, and produce a singular effect : before these the people are continually crossing and
bowing, and even sometimes prostrating themselves. There are more saints in the Greek Calendar
than there are days in the year."
CAPTAIN JONES'S Travels in Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, and Turkey, Vol.1, p. 441.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1(55
even to the greatest part of the women and girls. Beside this, the Priests give
instruction even to the orphan children, and do not suffer them to go about
without knowledge.
In this country of the Cossacks, to judge by what we saw, the orphans and
the widows are without number, since the time of the first appearance of
the Khatman Akhmil and his entering into dreadful wars. On every eve of a
festival throughout the year they go round, from sun-set, to all the houses to
beg, singing with one voice, in a delightful tune that goes to the heart,
the praises of the Virgin; so that their loud song is heard to a great distance.
When they have finished, the people of the house give them an alms of monev
or bread, or other victuals, &c., so as to satisfy them. Thus they live by what
they know : and for this reason most of them have learnt the prayers, particu
larly since the long-lived Akhmil has made his appearance, and taken possession
of these countries, and freed these millions of orthodox believers from the powder
of the enemies of their faith, the accursed Poles. And why do I pronounce
them accursed ? Because they have shewn themselves more debased and
wicked than the corrupt worshippers of idols, by their cruel conduct to Chris
tians, thinking to abolish the very name of Orthodox. God perpetuate the
Empire of the Turks for ever and ever ! for they take their impost, and enter
into no account of religion, be their subjects Christians or Nazarines, Jews or
Samarians : whereas these accursed Poles were not content with taxes and
tithes from the brethren of Christ, though willing to serve them ; but, according
to the true relation we shall afterwards give of their history, they subjected
them to the authority of the enemies of Christ, the tyrannical Jews, who did not
even permit them to build churches, nor leave them any Priests that knew^ the
mysteries of their faith ; but, on the contrary, violated their wives and daughters,
if they at all appeared abroad in the public exercise of their religion. When
the Almighty had seen their tyranny, he made them the laughing-stock of then-
enemies, and laid them low and contemptible, as we shall truly relate of them in
the sequel, until he had taken vengeance of their haughtiness.
To return : — On measuring the steps we had yet to take, they computed,
that from this town of Rashkobao, which is the first of the Cossack State, to
Potiblia*, the first frontier town of Muscovy, there is about the distance of
* This town, the name of which is always thus written, (UJoxv) Potiblia or BotibHa, by the Arch
deacon, appears to be that which, in our English histories of Russia and Poland, we find, with consi
derable diversity, denominated Putivol,
166 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
eighty great Cossack miles : for in this country they reckon the roads only by a
computation of miles ; and the mile with them is something above the distance
of three hours' journey,, at the rate of the horse's trot when drawing their car
riages,, which is quicker than the pace of our couriers,, and is that at which we
always travelled, according to their practice. The measured, or Cossack, mile
is about five of the small miles of our country. These eighty miles are the
whole length of the Cossack State, from south to north, as we shall shew
clearly hereafter.
SECT. II.
COSSACK COUNTRY.— DIMITRASHIKOBO.
Wi; left Rashkobao in the afternoon of the afore-mentioned Sunday, attended
by ten Cossacks who were appointed to accompany us ; and, proceeding about
two great miles, we arrived in the evening at another town, called Dimitrashikobo.
We stopped at the end of a large valley ; where we were met by a great number
of the men from the town, who guided and supported our carriages till we had
ascended the mountain on which the town is built. Here we were received by
thousands and tens of thousands of people : God's blessing be upon them !
First came the seven Priests of the seven churches of the town, with banners
and torches ; then the principal citizens and the troops. As soon as they
came up to us, our Lord the Patriarch descended from his coach in reverence to
the crosses and images ; and we clothed him, as usual, in his mantle ; and
gathered all of us around him,, to hold up his train. When he had paid his
devotions to the images and crosses, and had given his blessing to the
assistants, they proceeded before him, singing with one voice, so that the
mountain and valley thundered with the sound, the shrillest and loudest of
which was the tone of the children. Having reached the summit, we entered
the gate in the walls of the town ; and passing through the streets, we were
gazed on by thousands of men, women, and children, whose vast numbers
astonished us. They all threw themselves on their knees as the Patriarch
passed by ; and then, having received his blessing, they retired. Our eyes
were amazed at the multitude and overflow of the boys and girls, who poured
forth like the sand ; and we observed in this blessed people a degree of reli
giousness, and abstinence, and faith, that surprised us. This scene lasted until
we entered the church named after St. Demetrius ; and the Protopapas went into
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the Tabernacle, and said " Have mercy on us, O God, &c." and mentioned the
names of the Prince, the lover of Christ, Alexius the Muscovite, and the Princess
Maria, and their children. Afterwards he mentioned the name of the Patriarch
of Antioch, and the name of their Metropolitan, Silvcstris ; and all the persons
in the church chaunted with one voice, thrice at each versct, K«f« g?J^.
Then he finished the prayer : and they brought forward to our' Lord the
Patriarch the 'Ay/ao^o?, to sprinkle the church and the congregation. When
he had scattered it over all, they went out before us with torches, singing ; and
took us down to the house of the Protopapas.
In the manner we mentioned before, the orphan children went round this
night from house to house, singing lauds with one voice, in a tune which
enlivened and cheered the heart, so sweet was their melody. We were truly
surprised and delighted with their charming music.
The reason why they now commemorated, in all these countries of the
Russians, that is the Cossacks, the name of Alexius, Prince of Muscovy, was
that in the present year they had conformed their opinions and counsels with'
the Khatman Akhmil, and had bowed in submission to him, and surrendered to
him their territory : and this, because for the present year the Khan and the
Tartars had agreed with the Khatman Akhmil to make war upon the Poles
with one heart.
During the days of the last Immersion, the troops of the Poles had assembled
to the amount of about two hundred thousand men: and there were with the
Khatman Akhmil more than three hundred thousand ; under the Khan more
than a hundred and twenty thousand. With these forces they marched to
fight against the Poles ; and, by the assistance of God, they prevailed over them :
then, forming a yazak, or line of bivouacs, round their camp, and hcmmin- the
Poles m the middle, they cut off from them all supply of provisions ; and it was
that of hunger alone there perished about forty thousand. Afterwards
the Cossacks and Tartars closed in upon them, and assaulted them, and stormed
their camp, and struck the sword into them, until they were no longer able
:hrough fatigue. The Tartars took of them, alive, an immense number of pri
soners ; and the Cossacks gained possession of an invaluable booty. None
escaped of the Poles, but a few predestined to long life, headed by their Cral
or Prince, to the city of his throne, called Crakov, the stone-built, the girt with
.even walls, where they shut up and fortified themselves. Presently, Akhmil
and the Khan came and laid siege to them.
lf)8 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
When the Cral and his Grandees, as the history goes on to relate, saw that
their situation was evanescent, and that they had now been eighty years fighting
with Akhmil, and had no power against him, nor any resource, they came to
a determination to send to the Khan of the Tartars ; and promised him two
hundred thousand dinars, if he would merely separate himself from Akhmil, and,
instead of being with him, as before, be against him. When the Khan was
informed of their offer, he met it with acceptance ; and the Tartars, separating
themselves from Akhmil, departed for their own country. On their way, they
took out of the Cossack territory about ten thousand captives along with
them.
When the Khatman had ascertained these occurrences, he became violently
enraged ; and not finding any resource but in the Prince of Moscow, he sent a
deputation of his Grandees to him, to ask his succour, and to supplicate him,
for the sake of the orthodox faith, to take him by the hand, and not to allow
his enemies to exult over him. For the Khatman*, in the early part of his
time, had been a Brave by profession, and held the rank of Soteniks or Colonel ;
holding, at the same time, an estate which had passed into his possession from
* This celebrated Chief, whom the Archdeacon, in the Arabic manner, writes Akhmil
for Chmiel, commonly called Chmielniski, was originally a Lithuanian, who had acquired great influ
ence and credit among the Cossacks. In his youth, he had been carried off' by the Tartars : but
redeemed by his mother, he returned to the Ukraine, and cultivated an estate bequeathed to him by
his father, in the neighbourhood of the Polish fortress of C/erin. He added a piece of waste ground
to his patrimony, which lay contiguous to the fort; but after he had cleared and cultivated it, the
Polish Governor claimed it as his right, and enforced his pretensions by a violent seizure of the
ground. The Cossack appealed to Uladislaus; and he was determined to be in the wrong, the land
being adjudged to the Polish Governor, whose interest prevailed at Court; nor was any acknowledg
ment made for the expense with which he had cultivated a piece of waste ground. Fired with the
injury, the Cossack complained to his countrymen, exclaimed against the partiality of the Court, and
behaved with great haughtiness to the Governor, whom he treated as a tyrant. The dispute rose
higher; and the Governor, in contempt of Chmielniski, carried off his wife by violence, ravished, and
then put her to death. Not contented with this piece of barbarity, he set fire to the house of the Cossack,
in which perished his infant son in the cradle. Some writers, such as Heidenstein, Fontaines, &c. vin
dicate the Pole, by assertin»- that he committed these cruelties in revenue of Chmielniski's having
•/ O
him publicly and ignominiously whipped. Be this as it may, certain it is, that these transactions,
together with a number of other violences, gave birth to the revolt which now suddenly broke out.
The Cossack Chief deserted his habitation in a rage, took sanctviary in the islands of the Boristhenes
or Nieper, where he stirred up the whole nation to a resolution of renouncing the sovereignty of the
Republic of Poland, revenging the injuries they had sustained, assembling an army, and either con
quering or perishing in the cause of liberty. Chmielniski was elected Chief; and the most vigorous
measures were pursued for executing the dictates of the most signal vengeance.
See History of Poland, p. 521, in the Universal History.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1(J9
his ancestors. The former Cral of the Poles loved him with great affection ;
and it was he who had given him the name of Akhmil, or Bold, in their lan
guage, over and above his original name,, Zenobius.
SECT. III.
HISTORY OF THE POLES AND COSSACKS.
To all this country,, which is called the Lesser Russia, there were, in ancient
times, its own Rulers : and it is related in the histories which treat of them, that,
during the reign of Basil the Macedonian, king of Greece, they received the
faith at his hands. The Prince who governed them at that time was called
Vladimiros ; and the seat of their government was the city of Kiov, which bore
the crown of empire on its head.
But as it is not possible that any nation or kingdom be established for ever,
the Almighty having sealed and predestined that He will give authority over
every nation to a nation different from it, to root it out, as it has happened
from the most ancient times until now : this nation therefore, I mean of the
Poles, issued from the country of the Franks, and prevailed over all these
regions. And the proof of this is manifest ; for the meaning of the word Lah
(Leo), in the Latin language, is Lion ; and the name of the country of the Lahs,
or Poles, in the Latin language, is Polonia. For this reason, their hieroglyphic,
and the sign of their seal and country, is the figure of a lion, and also that of
an eagle. On this account they stamp the Dog piastres (v^JiXJI ^/) with
the figure of a lion, in reference to their name.
Their sequins (e^typl) they stamp with the figure of an eagle with two wings ;
and they glory in this, saying, " We are the sons of Alexander, and of his race :"
and until the present time they gird both themselves and horses with the wings
of large birds.
All this is the effect and proof of their insolence, and tyranny, and haughti
ness. For there is no nation found, on the whole face of the earth, to resemble
this in pride and glory and greatness ; as we shall relate hereafter, if it please
God, from their history.
As soon as they had effected the conquest of these regions, they determined,
in compliance with their unbounded pride, not to make themselves a king, who
170 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
should rule with absolute authority over them ; but each of them, who had
conquered and obtained possession of any country, became sovereign ruler there :
and this power has descended from father to son until now. Over their whole
body they set a stranger, not of their own nation ; and called him Cral, that is,
Great Beg, appointing him a district of territory for his support, where he
remained quiet, and transacted no business, either great or small, but by their
counsel and command. Whenever they pleased, they deposed him ; and trans
ferred the crown, by their own authority, to another person, not from among
themselves, but a stranger to their nation, in order that he might not take root
among them. Thus they have continued, from the beginning of their history
until now.
Afterwards they extended their conquests over many countries, and increased
by them their empire ; for all their frontier provinces are conquered from
Foreign States. This has been, because, in consequence of their great magni
ficence and bravery, they subdued all the Princes who were round them, and
held them in fear ; and conquered by their forces one side of the territory of the
German Empire, which is in possession of the Nemsa, who is styled Caesar,
taking a number of towns and fortresses ; fifteen, it is said, from the kingdom
of Sweden, which is near the kingdoms of France and Germany : and having
possessed themselves of a part of the territory of Hungary, they have also in
vaded the State of Moldavia, Thus also, since a period of thirty years, they
have been in possession of a large city belonging to the State of Muscovy,
called Smolensko, which, with its territory, is celebrated for its fortifications.
But they did not conquer it by the sword : they took it by fraud.
The case was, that an ancestor of the Emperor, wrho was afterwards conse
crated Patriarch of Moscow by Theophani Patriarch of Jerusalem, whose name
was Theodorus, on that occasion changed to Philaretus, went to them, for the
first time, as a Nuncio of friendship from his father the Emperor Michael ; and
as the Poles were ever treacherous, and an oath has no obligation for them, they
seized and kept him as a pledge, until it was settled between them that this
city should be surrendered to the Poles, who by this stratagem gained possession
of it.
In short, they were at enmity with all the Princes around them ; not one
of whom was ever able to invade them, or to gain any advantage over them
in war.
After they had extended their power over the whole country of the Cossacks,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 171
they did not content themselves with receiving taxes from them, nor yet tithes,
but began to give authority to the Jews and Armenians over them,, till these
went to such extremities as to debauch their wives and daughters ; so that the
Cossacks, after having been Princes to rule, became slaves, to yield obedience to
the accursed Jews. This was the first grievance.
The second was, that it had been customary with them to make forty thousand
of the Cossacks into regular troops with pay, in order to ward them from the
Tartars ; but, latterly, they had reduced their condition so far as to do away
with this establishment, with a design to leave them weak and helpless.
Afterwards they increased in tyranny, until the Priests of Christ, that is, of
God, were compelled to listen to the most odious language from them. They
even thought of annihilating them altogether ; or of making them Franks, to
obey the Pope, as they do. Within these forty years they have gone so far as
to throw down all their churches, and to take their Clergy from them ; and so
excessive has been their cruelty and impiety, as to burn to death the Metro
politan of the Cossacks, together with eleven of his bishops and chaplains ;
roasting them on the fire with iron tongs, and thinking thus to terrify and
subdue them. Such impious atrocities were not perpetrated even by the wor
shippers of idols, in their time.
During all this period there was great distress over our brethren the Cos
sacks ; and the boldest among them fled from their country and government, to
an island at the mouth of the great river, Niepros, which falls into the Black Sea ;
where they built a large and strong castle ; and settling there, added so many
brave young foreigners to their number, that, at the present time, without
reckoning the women, they amount to upwards of fifty thousand souls. They
are called Cossacks of the Dona, and, in the Turkish language, TonongCozaghi ;
and they made it their business and occupation to practise piracy and plunder in
the Black Sea.
In the mean while, the great body of the Cossacks patiently endured the
violence and tyranny of the Poles ; and bore agonies from them, like the agonies
of the Martyrs in their time, without complaint or rebellion ; looking to their
Heavenly Father, and submitting with resignation to the decrees of the Almighty.
About thirty years ago, three brothers made their appearance, at one time,
among the Cossacks ; and, raising their heads against the Poles, made war on
them, and completely defeated them, though they assembled many bodies of
troops against them. Having established themselves in the city of Kiov,
1 72 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
they adopted their own banners and magistrates : and when Theophani, the late
Patriarch of Jerusalem, wished to come to this country, they sent five thousand
Cossacks to carry him away from Moldavia, and received him with great reve
rence and ceremony among them. On that occasion, he consecrated for them
a Metropolitan and Bishops, and a number of Clergy : afterwards they conveyed
him to Moscow.
The Poles, seeing they had no power against these three brothers, made
friendship with them, to deceive and betray them ; and contrived to send and
poison all three, so that they died. Then they came and took possession of
what the brothers had conquered from them, and annihilated their troops by the
most cruel and shameful murders. Towards the peasantry they increased in
tyranny and violence to the utmost degree ; and shewed no bounds to their
indignation against Theophani, who at that time was in Moscow. As soon as
he was informed of their hostility, he took the road to the country of the Tar
tars, and escaped.
Immediately thereon came the Sultan Osman, with more than seven hundred
thousand men, to make war upon them, at the Fort Khoenti, which is on the
side of Moldavia ; and at the Fort Kamenitza, of so much celebrity, directly
opposite. The Poles, in consequence, addressed themselves to the Cossacks,
and intreated them to enter their pay as auxiliaries, and assist in repelling him.
The Cossacks yielded to their prayers ; and making war on the Turk in their
fiercest manner, and with their whole hearts, they speedily drove him back, as
is well known for a fact in every coffee-house. His own troops afterwards put
him to death : and a peace was concluded between the Turks and the Poles,
on surrender, by the latter to the former, of the Fort Khoenti, to be under the
government of the Beg of Moldavia, and on their agreeing to pay them
every year a contribution of seventy thousand piastres and thirty thousand head
of sheep and oxen.
For the kindness which the Cossacks had done them, the Poles returned the
greatest cruelties ; thus hoping to break their union and disperse their nation.
But God, beholding the tyranny and pride of the Poles, and incensed at their
perfidy, raised up his faithful servant Akhmil, to take vengeance on them, and
to release his peculiar people from their slavery and captivity; giving him
strength, and assisting him to destroy their armies by the edge of the sword and
the grasp of the emprisoner : as it has been said, " Whenever a nation becomes
exorbitant, God gives power to some other nation over it, to root it out,"
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 17;>
When Zenobius, surnamed, by their Cral, Akhmil, appeared, and fought in the
cause of religion ; but not having force enough, nor any helper nor supporters,
was induced to send first to Vasili, the Beg of Moldavia, to ask his assistance,
and next to Matthi Beg of Wallachia, intreating them to stand by him in
liberating the orthodox Cossacks from the slavery of the Jews and Armenians
and the accursed Poles ; instead of assisting him, and fighting for the true faith
in conjunction with him, these two Princes requited him with evil : for Vasili
sent his very letter to his friends the Poles, to make known to them his own
constancy in their favour, and the growing enmity of Akhmil : and Matthi sent
it to the Turks, his allies, to give them immediate information of the whole
affair. Akhmil, therefore, being disappointed, and hopeless of them both, sent to
solicit Alexius, Prince of Moscow, many times ; but the latter refused him anv
favourable answer, because of his being a rebel and an upstart ; as is the usual
conduct of Princes. When the hopes of Akhmil were thus blasted on all sides,
the Almighty guided him to the adoption of an admirable scheme. This was,
that between him and his friend the Cral a secret agreement was planned, that
Akhmil should raise his head in rebellion, and that the Cral should assist him
with troops ; in order to eradicate the Polish Grandees one and all, and to allow
him to become king in his own right, who should rule, and not be ruled by them.
For, as we mentioned before, there were many Grandees, in the hand of each of
whom was a large country inherited from his ancestors ; and there were some
of them who maintained a hundred thousand soldiers ; the lowest, ten thousand.
But their counsels were not unanimous, and each was disposed to follow his own
head : one after another, therefore, they all perished.
But what did Akhmil do ? He took with him his son Timotheus, who was
only eight years old, and went over to the Cossacks inhabiting the island.
Having, to their great delight, made an amicable compact with them, he went, at
their instigation, to the Khan of the Tartars, to make an alliance with him also.
On his arrival among the Tartars, it was in vain that he held out to them the
promise of great booty : they would give him no credit, and feared his inter
course, until he set his son before them as a pledge : on which the two parties
interchanged oaths ; and the Tartars, becoming as one with Akhmil, immediately
equipped, in conjunction with him, about forty thousand men; and, with the
assistance of God, they attacked the Poles, and routed them, making a great
number of them prisoners. Every thing that could be carried away they plun
dered ; and the Tartars, on beholding this success, were exceedingly rejoiced.
Having sent the captives to their own places in Tartary, they marched forward,
AA
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and attacked the Governor himself; and were not long before, by the help of
God, they gained the superiority over him, and put the Cossacks in possession
of all his territory ; as it had been agreed between them, namely, that " the
country and the booty shall be for us (the Cossacks), and the captives for you
(the Tartars)."
As the peasantry were all Cossacks, that were violently depressed under the
most cruel tyranny and slavery, they all rose on the side of Akhmil, and assisted
to conquer much territory. He had with him about five thousand men ; and
many thousands of the Tartars joined him, when they saw the abundant booty
that was gathered. Thus they ceased not to pursue their conquests over many
districts, and to put to death their various Governors ; until Akhmil rode para
mount over them, as Great Khatman or Vazir, called in their language " Com-
missari," that is, Amir Akhor to the Cral, having command over more than two
hundred thousand men ; and began to live in the greatest pomp, grandeur, and
magnificence.
SECT. IV.
BATTLE AND WAR BETWEEN THE POLES AND COSSACKS.
IT is related, that the Polish Grandees broke up their establishments at home,
for the purpose of marching out and devoting themselves to warfare against
Akhmil. When they had thrown up their intrenchments and fixed their tents,
they were as though they had come out to a merry-making party : and they
sent to tell Akhmil, saying, " Lo, we are come out to meet thee, with our wives
and children, and all that we possess ; with our gold and silver, our coaches
and our horses ; all our treasures, and the contents of our houses." And this
was really the truth ; for they were sitting in their tents, eating and drinking,
and carousing to intoxication, and smiling and scoffing at the poor troops of
Akhmil, and saying to him, " We are all come to place ourselves in thy hands :
make haste, then, to plunder, and carry away all our chests of gold, for they are
all here before thee." Now, when God saw their pride and vanity, he inspired
Akhmil with a stratagem, which he practised upon them. This was, that the
Cossacks went one night to the place where the Polish horses were feeding ; and
having slain the grooms, they took possession of the whole troop. Then they
retired, and made banners to the amount of the number of the horses ; giving to
each rider a banner in his hand, so that there were five thousand banners in all,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and five thousand small drums. Thus equipped, they marched towards the
enemy, so as to reach their cam]) with dawn of day ; and found them asleep, and
void of care. Raising a shout against them, they struck all their drums at once •
and the Poles, on springing to their feet, met the banners around them on every
As they endeavoured to find their horses, they were informed by the
fugitive grooms of what had happened : and despairing of all escape, they fell into
a blind rage, and began to sheath their swords in each other's bodies ; when the
Cossacks ended the business by a general massacre, from which none escaped.
Of booty they made an immense collection.
The Commander of the Polish army hid himself under a wagon, and was
covered up by his servants in the straw. But he did not remain concealed from
the Cossacks, who speedily detected him, and gave him a blow with a sword
scoffing at him in their rhymes, and saying, " Yesterday you laughed at us and
jeeringly mvited us to take your wealth and booty ; and now you are buried in
the straw, you wretch ! Arise, and sit on your throne, that we may worship you
J sovereign Lord ! and be not sad."
In this manner the Cossacks became masters of the whole of the country
and reduced it to their own government, rooting out every stock and race of the
oles, and Armenians, and Jews, from among them : and Akhmil performed
with his brave followers, such feats of valour, and such stratagems of war as no
one ever did before him. God gave him strength, and assisted his endeavours
from the beginning of his career till the end ; and hurled destruction, by his
sword, on the vanity and discord of his enemies: for each of them, as we men
tioned before, was given up to the guidance of his own head ; and made war from
his own territory by himself, refusing to be assisted by any one, or to be joined
by Ins neighbour's troops. The great evil among them was this haughtiness of
mind and excessive love of independence, whereby they were subjected to
every kind of fraud and treachery. Had they united all in a body with their
Cral, according to the practice of other kingdoms, and as they had done
formerly at the time of the war with the Turks at Kamenitza, joining all their
*, there would have been none to equal them in power, save God alone
Moreover their Cral, who was in secret a friend to Akhmil, used to send to
strengthen him, and enforce his designs, in order to ruin and destroy all his
When these were at length made acquainted with his conduct, they
led a conspiracy against him ; and, giving him poison to drink, put a speedy
termination to his existence. In his place they set his brother: and finding,
eventually, that they were unable to cope with Akhmil, they made a treaty of
176 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
friendship with him, for the purpose of deceiving and poisoning him ; but they
were unable to accomplish their design. Every scheme was attempted that
they could devise to assassinate him ; but in vain, for God was with him.
In this manner he has continued to bear himself towards them until now :
and when the Tartars gave way to their love of gold, and separated themselves
from him, he sent to make his obeisances to the Prince of Moscow. At length
the affair was settled, by means of the Patriarch, and through the zeal of the
Muscovites for the orthodox faith. The Prince sent to Akhmil some royal
caftans, and also to his Grandees ; and named him Knazi, in the rank of his
empire. Then he sent two Voivodas or Ministers, and with them sixty
thousand of his troops, to the city of Kiov, the castle of which they built and
fortified ; and quartered themselves there, in order to repel their enemies the
Poles : moreover, he inscribed forty thousand of the Cossack troops on his
muster-rolls, with an allowance to them of yearly pay from his treasury, to be
united with his own forces at Kiov. As there existed a great friendship
between the Emperor and the Poles and their Cral, he sent to them an Ambas
sador, to tell them, saying : " Be it known to you, that I seek three things from
you, if you wish our ancient friendship to continue : the first is, that whereas
the country of the Niepros, that is, of the Cossacks, is become my property, you
are not to invade them any more, nor to injure them : and whereas among you
there are Tartars, and they have their mosques ; Jews, and they have their
synagogues ; Armenians, and they have their churches ; in like manner you are
to hold in account the brothers of Christ, the Cossacks, who are, like me, of the
orthodox faith : the second is, that you are to style me Emperor of the
Russias, Great and Small : the third, that you restore to me the city of my
ancestors, Smolensko, with all that it contained of cannon, musketry, and other
armour and ammunition. If you give me a suitable answer, and in compliance
with my commands, our ancient friendship shall continue to exist between me
and you: if not, be it known to you, that I shall invade your possessions."
When the Poles heard this, they refused to consent, particularly the person
named Radzivil, son-in-law of Vasili, Beg of Moldavia, who was a great Khatman,
and an independent governor in that country, among many others. The Cral
himself was for a favourable answer : but the rest would not agree.
In the mean time, behold what the impure wretches did! — without any
ostensible leader, they came this very year, at Easter, that is, on the Eve of Holy
Thursday, and the Eve of Saturday of Light, and the Eve of Easter Sunday,
and suddenly invaded some seventy or eighty market-towns, in the Cossack
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 177
country; knowing that the people were busy in their churches and at their
prayers, and that it is the custom of the Cossacks not to take up arms at all
during the Great Lent*. But the misfortune was chiefly owing to the confi
dence of the Cossacks in the Emperor,, to whose protection they had recom
mended themselves. Coming therefore on them unawares, the Poles put to the
sword all whom they encountered, even the sucking-babes, and ripped up the
bellies of the pregnant women ; after which they fled. When Akhmil heard of
this, he sent some troops to pursue them ; but they failed of reaching the main
body. The rear, however, they put to rout, and cut them all to pieces,
together with one of the Jesuits who accompanied them to urge the enterprise.
Afterwards they took I know not how many towns belonging to the Poles ; and
put to the sword all whom they found in them, at the same time that they set
fire to the houses, in retaliation of what had been done to their country.
When, afterwards, the Emperor heard of this, he was exceeding angry, and
prepared for an expedition against the Poles : for the blood of the martyrs whom
they had killed, and whose blood they had mixed with the blood of Christ their
Lord on the Festival of his Holy Crucifixion, cried to God on their behalf ; and
he inspired the Emperor, the lover of Christ, to march out against them, with
more than six hundred thousand men.
He went forth from the city of Moscow on Monday the first of the Lent of
the Apostles (which was the same day we set out from Wallachia, as we after
wards ascertained) ; and passing on to the city of Smolensko, he thereto
laid siege. To Akhmil he sent ninety thousand armed men : and one of his
Vazirs, with one hundred thousand horse, he despatched to the frontier of
Tartary, to keep a watch over the Tartars, and hinder them from marching to
* " In the Greek Church there are, in the year, four great Fasts or Lents. During these Fasts the
Russians are not permitted to swallow flesh, milk, eggs, or butter; but confine themselves to vegetables,
bread, and fish fried in oil. The Fast before Easter is regulated by that moveable feast : it continues
eight weeks, and is called the Quadragesimal. In the first week they live upon butter, eggs, milk, &c.,
and abstain only from meat: it is called Maslonitza, that is, ' Butter-week/ and may be looked upon as
their Carnival, it being spent in public diversions. The next is called St. Peter's Fast, and lasts from
the Monday after Whitsunday, to the 29th of June ; and, consequently, is sometimes longer and some
times shorter. The Fast of the Blessed Virgin is immoveable: it begins always on the 1st, and con
tinues till the 15th day of August. St. Philip's is also immoveable; beginning on the 15th of November,
and continuing to the 26th of December. Besides these, the usual Fast-days are the Wednesdays and
Fridays throughout the year. These institutions were originally intended for Monasteries ; but the
second and seventh precept of the Church impose them upon all members alike, except that Monastics
are never allowed to eat flesh. All the Fasts are, in general, strictly kept by the common people ; but
few of the Nobility observe any of them, except, the first or last week of the Great Lent before Easter, when
they are about to take the Communion." — CAPTAIN JONES'S Travels in Russia, Turkey, eye. Vol. I. p. 452.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the aid of the Poles. But the Khan of the Tartars had consumed a great por
tion of the money of the Poles ; and now he sent to excuse himself to them,
savin0", that he had no power to march out to their assistance, nor to leave his
own territory, on account of the great number of Muscovite troops who were on
the watch. After a short time, he died ; and another became Khan in his stead.
This is what had been passing of late.
I will remark in this place, that in all these countries there always is a Proto-
papas, who takes the lead of the Clergy in preaching &c.
SECT. V.
COSSACK COUNTRY— HORAJKOKA, LIASKOVSKA, JADOKRIZ, #c.
To return to the subject of our travels :— We set out from Dimitrashikobo, the
place before mentioned ; and passed its celebrated fort, which is of wood, and
its bridges : and having proceeded a mile and a half, we arrived at another town,
called Horajkoka. Here also, on our approach, they came out to meet our
Lord the Patriarch, with an assemblage of the whole male population, both
great and small, and all the women, without the town, where they ranged them
selves in a double row ; and as soon as the Patriarch came near to them, they
bowed to the ground, to receive his blessing : nor did they rise until he had passed
on. I remarked that every man in this country continually carried a staff in
his hand.
After the Patriarch had kissed the Images and the Cross, they walked before
us, chaunting, till they had led us into their church, which bears the name of
St. Michael ; and all the while the bells were ringing. Afterwards they took us
to the banquet, and gave grass to our cattle : and after we had tarried a little
while, they went with us, to take farewell at the outside of the town.
Having proceeded a couple of miles, we came to another burgh, called
Liaskovska ; which has walls of wood, and a castle. They were actually at work
on the fortifications round these two towns, when we passed, in consequence of
their alarm at what the Poles had done in Holy Week. The entire popula
tion came out to meet us, as before, preceded by the Priests in their robes, and
carrying banners and torches; and the children chaunted as the procession
advanced. They were accompanied by the Prokovnikos Michael, who was
stationed without the town, at the head of twelve thousand troops, to observe
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 179
the Polish frontier, and those of Moldavia and Tartary. They conducted us
into a church bearing the name of Our Lady.
There is another church in the town, called after St. Nicolas. In this place
we slept ; and in the morning they all went out with us, to take farewell : and
they gave us a large military escort.
After we had proceeded two miles, we came to another town, surrounded by
ramparts, and containing a citadel within, constructed of wood. Its name was
Jabokriz. All the inhabitants here, also, came out to meet us. It was the custom
with them to chaunt before the Patriarch this piece - - ; and when he entered
the church, they sang "A.%iov la-riv, whilst he ^was paying his devotions to the
Images : and the Protopapas recited, "Have mercy on us, O God, &c." Nothing
had so much effect on our hearts, which leaped from their places, as the
chaunting of the children ; who sang the "Af;ov \ff7\v with all the fervour of
their youthful souls.
In this town are two churches, bearing the titles of The Nativity of Our Lady,
and St. Michael.
Our road this day, and afterwards, was all through a forest of J^U ^ &c.
The Poles, during their domination here, were spread over the forest, in felling
timber for the construction of their forts and towns and houses : but as soon as
the Cossacks came into possession of it, they made a division among themselves
of the lands ; and they are now very active in cutting down the trees and
burning the roots, and then sowing the ground with seed.
Every town and village in the country of the Cossacks is full of people, and
particularly of small children ; and each place can pour forth probably some forty
or fifty thousand souls, and more. As to the children, they are more numerous
than the blades of grass ; and they all know how to read : even the orphans are
so instructed ; who, as well as the widows, are very many here, their fathers and
husbands having been killed in the successive wars. But they have a salutary
practice of marrying their children when young ; and for this reason they
exceed in number the stars of heaven and the sands of the ocean.
Near every town or village there is sure to be a large lake, collected from rain
water or from the running streams ; and it is called Khalistao, or place for col
lecting fish. In the middle of it is a wooden mound or lock, on which is a heap
of twigs covered with hay and straw. Under it are wheels which turn a mill ;
so that they have water and fish and a mill altogether, and are in want of
nothing. These things are found, without fail, in every town or small
village.
180 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The machinery which they have for the turning of their mills is admirable ;
for we saw a mill turning by means of a mere handful of water.
It is remarkable,, that throughout Wallachia and Moldavia, and the country of
the Cossacks, as far as Moscow, all the roads lead through the middle of the
cities and small towns, carrying the traveller in through one gate, and conducting
him out by another ; and private or by-roads, on the outside of the towns, do
not exist at all. This is a very wise regulation.
We took our departure from Jabokriz, after the Priests, in their robes and
carrying their banners, had bid us adieu outside the town, according to their
constant practice : and we passed on our road over a large river, on which all the
contrivance and work was to make locks or dams for the collection of fish, and
for turning mills ; so that we were astonished and confounded : for the Druzes
in our country we call mounders of earth, whereas these Cossacks are dammers
of water.
After we had proceeded two miles, we came to a town, or rather city, larger
and handsomer than any we had passed ; the name of which was Obodoka. It
had large high ramparts ; and we entered it in the manner we mentioned of our
entry into all their towns, over a bridge on a lake in the middle of the city : and
the Priests came out to meet us, in their robes, and carrying their crosses and
banners, accompanied by the Magistrates, and all the population, including both
women and children as usual.
This town contains two churches, under the titles of The Assumption of Our
Lady, and of Saint Michael, built of wood, very grand and lofty, with cupolas,
and broad and high towers for the bells, which we saw from a great distance.
We went into some churches, of a large size, which were used only in the
summer ; and others which were used only in the winter ; all pierced with a
multiplicity of windows, which delighted the view. All have been newly built
since the beginning of the reign of the Khatman (to whom God give long life!),
Zenobius Akhmil.
As to the names of the Cossacks, they are all taken from the finest and
greatest of those of the Saints, both for men and women.
The Priests have a distinguishing mark ; which is, that their calpack is of
black cloth, with black fur lining, and is hardly different from velvet : the rich
among them have it made of velvet, with sable fur. Before their Chief they
stand with their heads uncovered, as they do also in the churches.
We departed hence on the morning of Wednesday the fourteenth of Haziran;
and passed in the midst of orchards without number, and rivers of water on the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 181
right and on the left. The different kinds of corn were to be seen of the height
of a man's stature, and spread like an immense sea in length and breadth.
Having advanced one mile, we came to a large town with a wooden fort of
great dimensions, surrounded by walls and trenches and cannon, called Balanoka.
Round the whole town, that is, without the extremest houses, is a wooden wall,
with another inside. On the gate of the fort is a tall piece of timber, with the
Messiah figured on it crucified, and with the appendages of the instruments
of the crucifixion, that is, the hammer and the pincers, and the nails and
the ladder, &c. ; which has been standing since the time of the Poles. Here
also they came out to meet us. We remained an hour ; and then proceeded
another mile ; and came to three other burghs, in a row on the bank of the river,
with three wooden ramparts and three dikes, called Samoka. They conducted
us to the church, which is dedicated to the Holy Parasceve.
We remarked, that over the door of every church in the Cossack country
is an iron collar, similar to those which are placed on the necks of captives.
On asking about it, we were told, that every person who came not to church to
the morning service, after the tolling of the bell, had this collar placed on his
neck for the whole day, and was fixed on the fold of the door so as not to be
able to move ; and that this was his constant treatment.
After an hour's rest, we set out from this place ; and crossed over the river
above mentioned, near to the reach upon it called Bokho, where the ships are
anchored. Then we advanced two miles further ; and came, in the evening, to
two other towns, both with ramparts and moats, and lofty castles within. Their
names were Sovolozka. In the citadel of one was a church dedicated to our
Lord the Messiah : in the other were two magnificent churches, by the names
of Saint Nicolas and Saint Michael. Like other towns, they had each a large
lake in the vicinity : and they made a grand procession for us, with flags and
banners.
On the morning of Thursday, we arose early; and having advanced something
less than a mile, we came to another burgh, with high ramparts and lakes of
water round it, called Mojoka, containing two churches of lofty structure,
dedicated to The Assumption of Our Lady, and St. Michael. Proceeding another
mile, we arrived at three burghs of considerable size, with fortifications, each
apart, called Steianoka ; with a handsome church in each, one dedicated to Our
Lady, the others to Saints Michael and Nicolas : but they were injured with
fire : and these were of the number of those towns which had been taken by
the Poles in the nights of the week preceding Easter, when they murdered the
inhabitants, and set fire to the houses. We immediately afterwards came to
BB
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
another town near the preceding ; which has beautiful fortifications, and is called
Fajna. Round all these towns are lakes, with their mills : and in the last is a
handsome church, named after St. Nicolas. Having advanced another mile, we
arrived at another fortified town, Yayinarva, which has a church dedicated to
St. Nicolas : here we slept. All these towns are near to each other ; and it is
so throughout all the country of the Cossacks. What blessed places it contains!
You cannot go the distance of Khan Toman from Aleppo, but you must pass, on
your road, through ten cities, or eight, or five at least. The towns I speak of
are those immediately on the high roads ; but as to others on the right and left,
they are without number ; and there is not one that has not its three wooden
walls, in proper repair ; the outermost of which is made with stakes crossed, to
oppose the attack of cavalry. The other two, with a trench between them,
are within the town : and there is sure also to be a citadel mounted with
cannon ; so that in case of the inhabitants being overcome by the enemy, and
being invaded over the three walls, they may retire, and defend themselves within
the castle. The large lake of water is close to the walls, serving as a great
moat ; and the road lies over a narrow bridge above. Upon any alarm, they
break down the bridge, and are in no fear of their enemies.
The greatest part of these fortresses were erected out of apprehension of the
Tartars alone, whose inarch into these countries is sudden and unawares ; as
their custom is, when they sally forth from their own territory, not to give any
notice to their troops of the spot whither their march is directed, that they may
not divulge it. In a single day they perform five or six days' journey, in troops
of cavalry ; each trooper having with him four or five led horses ; so that when
one is tired, which he has been riding, he mounts another. Having advanced in
this manner a month's march, they hide themselves in the mountains and
thickets ; and having made a sudden attack in the night-time, they take to flight,
as they have no courage for war. Such were their proceedings in this country :
to guard against which, when the government was in the hands of the Poles,
and every twenty or thirty towns, or perhaps forty or fifty, were subordinate to
one Beg, whose subjects the Cossacks were, or rather his slaves, they used to
employ them day and night in the construction of these ramparts, in excavating
the dikes, in the formation of the lakes of water, in clearing the lands, &c.
But when the Khatman, Zenobius Akhmil, (to whom God grant length of life !)
gained possession of the country, those who had laboured and endured all the
hardships of the work came into their rightful possession of it, and by their
occupation of their own ramparts defeated the hopes of their enemies.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 183
SECT. VI.
COSSACK COUNTRY— TALALAYOKA, HORODOKA, HOMANO.
ON the morning of Friday, we advanced a mile ; and came to a burgh or
market-town, called Talalayoka, surrounded by lakes and water-mills. It con
tains a handsome church ; but its citadel and ramparts were all burnt, it being
one of the places which the infidel Poles set fire to, in Holy Week. The inha
bitants were unassisted by their neighbours ; and being unable to resist the attack
of the Poles, they were overcome, and were all put to the sword ; being thus
made companions to their Lord the Messiah in his sorrows, to the number of
many thousands. Round this town were four others, that were treated in the
same way.
We immediately proceeded another short mile ; and came to another market-
town, called Talalayoka, which had been dealt with in the same manner.
Shortly afterwards we reached another town in the same neighbourhood, called
Horodoka, the fortifications of which were burnt : but there remained in it a few of
the inhabitants, for whom our hearts were pierced with grief, at the contempla
tion of what had befallen them : nevertheless, they came out to meet us, in the
usual way ; and took us to the great church, which they are proud to possess,
bearing the name of Saint Michael. From that time to this, we never saw one
equal to it in the country of the Cossacks, for height, and the elevation of its
five cupolas. The colonnade that is carried round the building consists entirely
of rounded pillars : and also over the gate is a tower for the bells, with similar
columns. It had all been newly built : but the inhabitants were soon interrupted
in the pleasure of beholding it ; and we all wept much over the thousands of
martyrs who were killed by those impious wretches, the enemies of the faith,
in these forty or fifty towns. The number,, probably, amounted to seventy or
or eighty thousand souls. — (O you infidels ! O you monsters of impurity !
O you hearts of stone ! What had the nuns and women done ? What the
girls and boys and infant children, that you should murder them ? If you had
courage, you would have gone to fight with the venerable old man who has set
you as a laughing-stock to the world ; who has slain your Princes and Grandees,
and annihilated your heroes and valiant men : this person, who has made you
the sport of the beholder, is named Akhmil. And well is he named " The Brave"
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
— a name given to him by your Cral.) For it was the Poles who had conferred
on him this appellation of Akhmil, after the name of a plant which grows in
their gardens., resembling the French bean (*juj!), both in blossom and leaf : but
it winds round trees, like the a^li!. This kind of telsA they sow throughout all
this country, in their orchards and gardens ; where it winds upon long poles which
they set up for the purpose. Its fruit they gather after the blossom,, which is
spotted green ; and they put it into the boiling liquor which they make into a
spirituous beverage, that is, into the decoction of oats (a grain resembling
wheat), from which a strong spirit is distilled. In the winter it withers away,
and is burnt like straw ; and when the spring shines forth at Easter, it shoots,
and rises to a great height. To this, therefore, they have likened Akhmil :
for during the days of Lent he lays aside war and battle and the sword, and
reposes at home ; and those who have neither judgment nor faith come and
burn and murder and carry on war up to Easter, whilst he speaks not a word.
But when the glorious Easter is come with its flowers, he then starts up ; and
then are gathered to him five hundred thousand warriors, to fight for the orthodox
faith ; who are ready to hazard their lives for the love of their lord : who
seek no pay, nor any thing of the kind. For Akhmil now boasts, and towers
over the kings of the earth in this particular, that he has under him more than
five hundred thousand troops, wrho receive no pay whatever, but are prompt to
stand by him whenever he calls them, bringing with them their provisions and
ammunition, and every thing they want. Both they and he, from the Festival
of Easter until the Great Lent, are inhabitants of the deserts, and. away from
their wives and children, leading a life of chastity and abstinence, which they
have now persevered in from year to year, for the last eight years that he has
reigned. — What a blessed nation is this ! and how copious its numbers !
What an orthodox people! and how abundant in faith! — After the loss of so
many thousands of them slain in battle or sudden attack, and of so many more
that the Tartars have carried away into captivity, they are still able to muster
this immense quantity of armed men, to whom God give His blessing !
On the other hand, what have the Cossacks themselves done ? They have
slain of their enemies, that is, the Poles, with their wives and children, more than
can be reckoned up, and have sometimes not even left a remnant of them. We
used to look with admiration at the palaces of the Polish Grandees and Gover
nors, which we beheld within the forts, at a long distance ; so great was their
elevation, with their cupolas and colonnades. When you entered them, you were
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 185
equally surprised at their beautiful architecture and elegance ; and at their lofty
stoves, taller and more graceful than the cypress,, where they made their fires in
the winter. But now they are in ruins, without an inhabitant ; and are become the
resort of dogs and swine. As to the tribe of Jews and Armenians, they have
utterly destroyed their whole race. The beautiful houses and shops and magazines
which they possessed are now a refuge for wild beasts ; for the long-lived Akhmil,
on gaining possession of this country, swept away from the face of it the whole
progeny of foreigners ; and its inhabitants are now pure orthodox Cossacks.
To return : — The people of the above-mentioned town requested our Lord the
Patriarch to consecrate their church for them ; as the accursed Poles had gone
into it, and broken the images, and denied it ; and since Easter no mass had
been said in it, until now. They had been waiting for a chief Priest to pass their
way, to have it consecrated by him. In compliance with their entreaty, our Lord
the Patriarch made for them an 'Ay/ao^oj, and sprinkled their church with it.
Immediately on leaving it, we proceeded two long miles; and came to a
large town, divided into three fortressess, each apart. The third is an immense
castle of wood, on an eminence, which they are now building anew : they are
digging trenches around it, and fortifying it with square towers furnished with
cannon. The name of the place is Homano. The inhabitants came all out to
meet us, according to custom, with banners and torches, preceded by the Priests
and Deacons in their robes ; and accompanied by the Proconicos and his troops,
who were stationed without the town, in great numbers, to watch the frontiers
of the Tartars and Poles.
It was remarked by us, that on the necks of the horses of the Grandees, in
the country of the Cossacks, is suspended a cross of silver : but on the necks of
the horses of the Voivodas in Muscovy, and between their eyes and along the
bridles, the whole space is covered with gilt crosses.
Here they took us to a magnificent lofty church ; the cupolas of which are of
green iron Q-as.-) <%^)> of extraordinary beauty. It is very wide and spacious,
and painted all over. It is built of wood ; and its silver candlesticks are nume
rous, furnished with handsome green torches. Above the Na'^f are suspended
its fine-toned bells. In this church are lofty pillars ; with galleries looking over
the choir, in which the musicians stand, and sing from their musical books to the
organ, making with it a noise that emulates the thunder. For this is the first
large city of the country of the Cossacks, and its houses are high and beautiful.
Most of them were the houses of the Poles, and Jews, and Armenians ; and have
186 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
many windows glazed with coloured glass, with pictures hanging over them.
The people of the town are sumptuously and elegantly dressed. Here are nine
churches of magnificent structure, with lofty cupolas, under the titles of The
Resurrection, Ascension Thursday, The Holy Trinity, The Nativity of the Virgin,
The Assumption, St. Michael, St. Nicolas, the Festival of the Cross, and
Easter. For this city was the central residence of the Polish Governors, and
their capital ; and they had many princely palaces here, which still exist.
On the Saturday, we attended mass in their cathedral ; and,, before we left it,
were deprived nearly of the use of our legs, from long standing : for, as we
before mentioned, all their churches are entirely destitute of seats ; and they are
very tedious in their prayers and chaunting, and in their celebration of the mass ;
particularly when the ministering Priest or Deacon recites the Prone, and the
chaunters who stand in the gallery respond, in their language, " llospodi, pomilui"
that is, K^;s, gXgjjflrof ; each of which responses they chaunt to music for the
space of a quarter of an hour. At the "HLKoptv Kuvreg, that is " We all say," we
counted that, in the country of the Cossacks and Muscovites, the Priest recites it
in fifteen verses, and that at every verse they chaunt Kvets, sXiqarov, many times ;
so that we reckoned that during this prayer they chaunt Kvgiz, IXsqtrov about one
hundred times ; and in like proportion during the rest of the Prone.
They never neglect to read the Epistles and Gospels ; and the Reader pro
nounces the Epistles with a modulation much more beautiful than ours in
reading the Gospel, and that on every word : nor do they ever omit to say the
Psalms of David and the Hgozztpzvov, verse for verse, every day throughout the
year, with the proper chaunt. In like manner, after reciting the Gospel, they
chaunt with the organ the words Aofa ffo}, Kvgis, $ofa <roi, both the first and
second time : and at the time of their saying "A%iov to-riv, all the Priests in
attendance, with the children of the choir, assemble in the middle, and all
chaunt it with one voice and from the bottom of their hearts. At the comme
moration of the Bohoroditsa, or Divine Nativity, they all kneel on the ground,
at the same time having their heads uncovered, even the Priests officiating.
At other times you might see them standing in the churches like rocks, without
motion. As for us, we suffered great pain ; so that our very souls were
harassed with fatigue and anguish : but, as we mentioned before of them, we
observed in them all a perfect spirit of religion, and abstinence and humility,
to the utmost. They used to press forward in crowds to kneel and kiss the
Cross in the hand of our Lord the Patriarch : and when we passed along the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 1ST
roads, and they saw the Cross raised on a staff, though they were extremely
busy with their harvest, they would turn towards the east, with the women
and children, and cross themselves on the forehead ; and the men and boys
would throw aside their sickles and their work, and run as fast as they could to
receive a blessing from our Lord the Patriarch. Travellers, especially, used to
descend from their horses and carriages at a distance, and, gathering from the
different parts of the road, would stand in a line, with their heads uncovered,
till the Patriarch passed ; and then, kneeling on the ground, would creep for
ward to kiss the Cross and the Patriarch's hand, and so depart.
To return: — We went out from mass near mid-day; and the Proconicos
Simeon, before mentioned, with his Lieutenant, held up the arms of the Pa
triarch, according to their custom,, till he had conducted him into his house,
where we made for him an 'A-yiourfAog ; and the Patriarch prayed over him, and
over his spouse, the prayers of Absolution ; and we sat down to table : on rising
from which, he accompanied us to our lodgings, to take leave of us.
SECT. VII.
COSSACK COUNTRY— CRASNOBOLA, SAKOKA, AND PALACE OF KALINOSKA.
Wi; then set out from Homano, and parted from the General on the outside
of the town. He, also, appointed some troops to attend us : and we proceeded
one mile, and came to another town with fortifications and a castle, named
Crasnobola, whence the inhabitants poured forth to meet us, as usual. For at
the moment of our departure from any place, one of the troopers attending us
went in advance, with a Letter from the Proconicos, addressed to all his depen
dents, informing them of our approach ; that they might get ready a provision of
meat and drink, sufficient for all our train. With our servants, and the Heads
of Convents who accompanied us with their servants, we were about forty per
sons. In like manner they sent to prepare horses for our carriages, and cut
green, grass for our cattle : for, as we mentioned before, the summer of these
countries is a perpetual spring, and the flowers bloom to the month of Teshrin ;
so that we were astonished at the vernal appearance of the fields. At the
gates of every town they used to meet us with loads of bread, to have it
blessed ; and when we sat down to table, the first thing they placed before us
was always bread.
188 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
In this way the people of the above-mentioned town came out to meet us at
their gates, as they had been recommended to do : and when our Lord the
Patriarch paid his devotions to the banners and the crosses, he always alighted
from his carriage, out of respect to them ; and walked in his mantle some
distance,, until they had led us into the church ; which we quitted for our lodg
ings, where the Cross, raised on a staff, was arboured at our door.
After they had taken us into their church, which bears the name of Saint
Michael, we set out instantly : and proceeding another mile, came, in the evening
of the fifth Sunday after Pentecost, to a very large town, with three forts and three
lines of defence, called Sakoka ; which has four large lakes of water in its vicinity ;
and, amongst its buildings, some magnificent handsome houses, which formerly
belonged to the Jews and Armenians. It contains four churches, which bear
the titles of The Divine Manifestation, Our Lady, St. Michael, and St. Nicolas :
they are magnificent and lofty. Outside the town is a convent dedicated to
St. George, which they are now building anew.
We were met by the Priests and Deacons, as usual, without the gates, with
their banners and torches, in great numbers : they conducted us into the
church, chaunting until the Protopapas began the Prone ; in which he mentioned
the name of our Lord the Patriarch of Antioch, and the name of their Metropo
litan Silvestris, and the Khatman Zenobius, and the Emperor Alexius, as is
always done. Then they led us out, walking before us in their robes, and with
torches in their hands, and chaunting, until they deposited us in our lodgings.
Here the Patriarch gave them his blessing ; and they departed.
It may be remarked, that in these countries of the Cossacks there is no wine :
their beverage is barley-water, boiled and sweet, which is very good. We drank
it instead of wine. How could we help ourselves ? This sweet barley-water,
however, has the advantage of being cool on the stomach, particularly in the
summer season. There is also a beverage made with boiled honey : this is
intoxicating. As to the spirit made from oats *, which is like the grain of
wheat, and is boiled for the purpose, there is a great abundance of it, and it is
very cheap.
* The Arabic word which I have rendered ' oats ' is } M j . It may, however, be intended for
' rye.' No Dictionary, that I have been able to consult, has contained it. Holman says, " at a
Russian banquet a variety of drinks are carried about ; as the Zboten, prepared from honey, or treacle
and water, with herbs added, to give it a flavour : this, when cold, is presented in glass vessels ; and
when hot, in metal ones. Occasionally, a better kind of Zboten is prepared, from the juice of cran
berries, pears, prunes, or other fruits, sweetened with honey. Another beverage is the Kvass, which
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 189
We rose early in the morning of the afore-mentioned Sunday ; and attended
the "QgQjov with them, and afterwards Mass. Then I went to see the palace of
the Governor of this city, whose name was Kalinoska. This was one of the
greatest of the Polish Governors, the chief or principal of whom were four. One
of them was named Botoska; the second Commissari, the same person the
manner of whose death we mentioned as having occurred in the beginning of the
reign of the Cossacks. He had two hundred thousand men under his command.
The third was this Kalinoska. Homano, as far as the borders of Raskho,
together with this town and other places, a very large district, was his domain.
His own stud of horses were forty valuable Turkish chargers ; and his body
guards were twelve thousand fine soldiers, all clothed in rich uniforms. Besides
them he had thousands of other troops. When Akhmil marched to fight
against him, he was defeated, and carried off by the Tartars, as a prisoner, into
their country, in the company of Botoska. Vasili, Beg of Moldavia,, afterwards
sent to redeem them, paying eighty thousand gold pieces for each. The fourth
was called Vishnovaska, one of the three Governors on this side the river
Niepros. The intention of Vasili in liberating them was, that for the good he
did them he might be remunerated by them in a handsome manner in the
sequel. And this recompence he obtained : for the Poles sent assistance to his
enemy, Stephani Voivoda,, whilst he was engaged in his attack on the fortress of
Satjao ; and there struck Timotheus, son of Akhmil, and his son-in-law, with a
cannon-ball, and killed him, as we before described : so that his requital was evil
for good, and his hope was reversed. On this account, Akhmil was angry
with him to an extreme degree : for these two, on returning to their country,
renewed and would have continued the war against Akhmil and the Cossacks,
but that the brave Timotheus marched to meet them, and defeated them, and,
slaying them with his own sword, blotted their remembrance from the face of
the earth.
The palace of Kalinoska is at the further side of the city ; and is seen from a
great distance, by its height. Between it and the houses of the town is a large
river, and an immense lake ; over both of which is a bridge. The palace is a
is brewed with rye-flour, and sometimes flavoured with aromatic herbs ; and whieh is carried, in the
preparation, to a slight acetous fermentation : this may be considered the substitute for English Small-
Beer. There is, however, a superior Kvass, named Buza, prepared from sifted flour and malt ; and
a third, named Kisloy-stahee, from the finest wheat-flour, which is deliciously effervescent. Mead is
also much used." — HOLMAN'S Travels in Russia, Siberia, Poland, &c. Vol.1, p. 135.
Cc
190 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
castle, on the top of a high eminence; and all around it is a moat of great width
and depth ; with a wooden palisade, on the outside, of cross poles, to resist the
attack of cavalry ; and another within, of joint timber. In front of the gate are
large guns ; and on the flanks, on both sides, are smaller guns. The whole circuit
of the castle is fortified with square wooden towers. In the centre of the inclosure
is a large open space; at the upper end of 'which is the magnificent dwelling-
house of the palace, all built of wood hardened in the fire, which is incom
bustible; and is planed and polished on the four sides, and joined in such a
manner that no glue appears, so that you would suppose the whole house, or
each wall of it, one entire piece in length and breadth. The length of each
timber, or square piece of wood, is fifty spans and more, as we measured it ;
and its breadth is four spans. Throughout the whole circumference of the
palace are four of these timbers, raised lengthwise,, one upon the other, to the
roof. This place contains a great number of cellars and magazines ; over which
are other houses and floors, one above another. As to the stoves and furnaces,
where they make their fires in the winter, they are very large, and taller than
the cypress, with many pipes that pass along the cielings, and are of great
width. Near these apartments are very extensive stables for the horses.
Next, we ascended to the upper rooms of the other palace, which is for the
summer season ; and is above the gate of the castle, up many steps. It consists
of apartments raised over each other, with windows all round. It is a building-
similar to that called The Mount of St. Simeon, in our country ; and like the town
Moarra. It is much ornamented and painted ; and it opens to the view of the
person sitting in the upper story a circumference of a day's journey or more,
with the sight of all the objects in motion in the different places and on the
roads. It still remains desolate, with not a single inhabitant ; and appears to
moan for its former possessors.
On descending to the town, we went to the great church, which is opposite
the castle, and bears the name of St. Nicolas, the Cossacks having lately
so christened it. They are now employed on the repair of the cupolas. This
church is one of the most magnificent in existence, as well in architecture and
ornament, as in loftiness and height and size. Inside of it are inclosures in the
form of a cross, namely, the two choirs, and the magnificent large tabernacle,
within which, where the Ka&dga. is, are four pillars of wood, very large,
adorned with sculpture and painting, and entirely covered with gilt, so as to
have the appearance of solid gold. Over them is a kind of cupola. The
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 191
they are now making new. In the choirs are places for the Priests to
stand ; and the choristers are continued the same as in the time of the Poles.
All their pillars, and all the wood, and the desks on which they place the
books, are painted and gilt. Above the great Na^f are galleries; with
balustrades, looking over the choir, in which the singers stand and chaunt to
the organ. The height of the steps ascending to this place is very great.
Outside the door of the church is the tower for the bells ; and round the whole
circuit of the court are wooden walls, inclosing gardens.
In like manner the houses of the whole of this city are large, and built of
handsome polished wood ; for, as we mentioned, they were the houses of the
Armenians and Jews, whose race the Cossacks cut off from the land, and
gathered to themselves their wealth and plunder, with their houses and furni
ture, their gardens and their fields. And this they well merited ; for during
the reign of the Poles they were the magistrates and deputies and collectors of
the taxes, and they enslaved the Cossacks to the utmost. When, therefore, the
Almighty granted the kingdom to the latter, they blotted their memory from
the land. And what a blessed nation it is ! What a happy country ! This is its
greatest merit, that it contains not one inhabitant of any other sect whatever,
but is pure, and peopled only with the orthodox, the faithful, and the truly reli
gious. How great is its zeal for purity and holiness of spirit ! how clear its
principles in the truth of orthodoxy ! Blessed be our eyes for what we saw,
and our ears for what we heard, and our hearts for the joy and exultation
which we experienced! For this people, from being in captivity and slavery,
are now living in mirth and cheerfulness and liberty ; and have built up their
Catholic churches, and brought forth their glorious images, and their pure and
godly Iconostases, their banners, their crosses, their insignia. Every church we
saw was handsomer, and more vast and elegant, and loftier and larger than the
other ; and every Iconostasis and Symbolon and image was more beautiful and
noble than those we had previously seen : even the village churches exceeded
each other in beauty. The people had entered into a religious emulation, with
new love and zeal ; and were applying themselves to learning and reading, and
singing with vehement affection and the sweetest chaunt. And they are truly
deserving of happiness ; for they endeavour to provide themselves, in extreme
simplicity of contentment, with such food as is sufficient for their wants, and with
the clothing that peculiarly becomes them.
192 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. VIII.
COSSACK COUNTRY.— BOGI, LISINKA, MADFADKAN, ISAI.
WE arose in the morning of Monday the nineteenth of Haziran ; and, pro
ceeding a couple of miles, came to another large town, between two mountains,
with fortifications, and a castle on the side of the hill, and a large body of water
flowing in the vale below. On the dike were four mills, with admirable
machinery, such as is found in all the mills of this country : for the stream of
water drives down and turns round the outer wheels, the cogs of which turn
round the mill for the grinding of the wheat ; and for the bruising of the oats
and barley there are beams, that pound by rising and falling on a circulating
stone. The oats, when pounded and broken, they take to make spirits of; and
the barley to boil and make water of, or beer. There are other beams for
beating the flax, which they sow for the manufacture of linen. Between the
two wheels on the outside are large wooden rollers, with which, in the time of
the Poles, they used to full the cloth, after it had been steeped in the current
for many days.
To return : — The name of the above-mentioned town is Bogi. It contains
three churches, by the titles of The Assumption of Our Lady, Saint Michael,
and Saint Elias. After they had given us a meeting, as usual, with banners and
the procession of the Clergy, and we had gone into the church and out again,
they requested our Lord the Patriarch to consecrate for them a fourth church,
entirely new, which they had just finished ; and they conducted us to it in
procession.
As soon as we had entered, our Lord the Patriarch made an 'Ay/ao^o?, and
sprinkled all over the church and tabernacle, and fixed the table and altar, and
smeared them with the divine myron, and read over them the well-known
prayers, and gave to the church the name of The Holy Nativity. Then he
sprinkled all present with the holy wrater : for whenever we entered a village or
town, the Priests used to meet us with a vessel of 'Ay/ao^o? : and when the
Patriarch alighted from his coach and kissed the crosses and the images which
they held in their hands, and they had kissed his cross and his right-hand like
wise, they used to present to him a vessel of 'Ay/ao^o?, and he sprinkled all the
assistants with the hyssop, in the form of a cross. Also, when we entered the
TRAVELS OP MACARIUS. 193
church, and after the Prone and the conclusion of the prayer,, they used to
place for him a chair, that he might sit down and cross them all, one by one,
with the 'AyioLfffAog. Afterwards, as he went out, he threw the water over the
whole population of the town, on the right and the left,, till we arrived at our
lodgings.
From the time of our arrival in the country of the Cossacks till our departure
thence, we wrere furnished by the Government with carriages and horses, which
were supplied to us for the conveyance of our baggage from town to town,
according to their custom ; for our horses had halted with the fatigue of this
long journey.
We immediately left this place, and proceeded four miles. The whole of this
day's travelling was through an immense forest of J^Lo trees, which they were
employed in cutting down and burning their roots ; and after ploughing the
ground, they were sowing it with corn. This operation they were carrying on
throughout the whole country: for, as we were informed, during the time of
the Poles, the traveller could not view the sun for the depth and thickness of
the woods, in consequence of the great care the Poles bestowed on them,
planting them, like orchards, for the use of the timber in building their walls and
forts and houses. But as soon as the Cossacks obtained the sovereignty, they
divided the lands, and made hedges and boundaries ; and are now clearing them
night and day.
In the evening we came to a large town, fortified as usual, and with waters
and gardens : for this blessed country is like a pomegranate orchard, so great is
its beauty and cultivation. The name of the town was Lisinka : and it contained
four churches ; one dedicated to The Divine Manifestation, or Epiphany, which
was that into which they conducted us. Over its gate was a new brazen bell, of
very large size, the sound of which we heard at the distance of an hour's ride.
Its cupola is covered with plates of tin. The largest church they have is called
The Catholic : the other three churches are dedicated to the Virgin, Saint
Michael, and Saint Nicolas. There is, moreover, another large church, by the
name of The Holy Trinity ; in which we saw an image of Our Lady, wherein she
was figured as a crowned spouse ; whereas we constantly see her portrait drawn
as a pure virgin, with blushing cheeks. In this church, also, were hung up crowns
of thorns stained with gore ; in imitation of that wherein Christ appeared to
Eustathius, and spoke to him.
From this town we sent to the Preserved of God, the Khatman Zenobius
194. TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Akhmil, a Letter, to inform him of our coming, according to the usual form; for
he was stationed, with his army, at the distance of four great miles from this
place.
On Tuesday we arose, and advanced one great mile ; and came to another
town with ramparts and a moat, newly made, and a lake, called Madfadkan,
containing three churches, dedicated to Our Lady, Saint Nicolas, and Saint
George. Here a Hawyvgi, or fair, is held, for buying and selling, on the Feast
of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist,, the twenty-fourth of this month
Haziran.
Departing hence, we proceeded two other great miles, through a vast forest
between two mountains, by a narrow and difficult road in a valley. At every
short distance the passes were stopped with connected beams of wood, to with
stand the assault of cavalry, on the right hand and on the left : above were
dwelling-houses,, to the number of three hundred. At the bottom of the valley
were about ten different fish-ponds, one below the other, the overflowings of
each falling into the next lower down. On these are the mills, on the dams of
which are planted willow-trees in great abundance.
It may be remarked, that on the lakes throughout this whole country is the
usual yellow flower of the Nenuphar, or Nymphaea ; and also the double white,
in very great quantities.
Nothing surprised us so much as the abundance of their live stock, chiefly
their poultry,, that is, their fowls and ducks and geese and turkies, which were
wandering about the fields and woods, to feed, at a distance from the towns and
villages ; and laying their eggs in the copses and thickets, where none take the
trouble to seek them, so abundant are they everywhere : for there exists not in
this country, nor is known, such a thing as a vulture or an eagle or a lion, at all.
It is rare even for a snake to make its appearance ; and over the whole road
from Wallachia to the capital of Muscovy we saw but one, which we killed.
Besides, they have no poachers among them, nor thieves, nor plunderers.
It may be noted, that we saw in the dwelling-houses of this country not only
men, but animals and birds ; and we were greatly surprised at the prosperity
that shewed itself among them. In the house of each of the married men you
might count ten children ; and most of them had white hair on their heads, so
that we used to call them Sheikhs, from their grey appearance. But what
increased our surprise the most, was to behold them piled, as it were, with heads
above each other, when they came out of their houses to look at us. But we
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 19.3
had more to do to look at them ; for we used to see the tallest standing on one
side with the next in height immediately below him, and so on till the lowest
stood last ; — blessed be their Creator ! What can we say more characteristic of
this happy nation, than that during the last two years there have been killed of
them in the wars some tens of thousands ; captured by the Tartars some
thousands ; destroyed by the plague more multitudes than have been counted,
amidst its ravages among them, and its quick removal of such crowds of them to
the heavenly abodes : and yet, with all this, they are like grains of sand, and
more numerous than the stars. It must be, that their women conceive and
bring forth three or four times a year, and bear each time three or four at a
burden. But the real truth is, as we were informed, that this country allows
no woman to be barren ; and this is a circumstance perfectly evident, and true,
and in every man's experience.
As to their cattle and quadrupeds, you may see in each man's house, by the
blessing of God, ten kinds of animals : first, horses ; secondly, cows ; thirdly, sheep ;
fourthly, goats, resembling wild deer ; fifthly, hogs ; sixthly, fowls ; seventhly,
ducks ; eighthly, geese ; ninthly, turkies, in great abundance. Some have pigeons,
for the tenth kind, in places above the roofs of the houses : others have dogs.
What surprised us most were the various kinds of hogs, of different colours
and shapes. There were black, white, red, brown, yellow, and blue ; besides
black spotted with white, blue with red, red with yellow, white spotted with
brown, some white spotted with black, and some streaked in various forms.
What amusement and laughter we used to have at their young litter ! But we
never were able to hold one of them at all ; for most undoubtedly they have
devils in their bellies, and they slip through your hands like quicksilver. The
sound of their voice is heard to a great distance. The sow bears thrice in the
year : and the first time of her life that she litters, she brings forth eleven pigs ; the
second time, nine ; the third, seven ; the fourth, five ; the fifth, three ; the sixth
time of her life, one, singly; and after that she bears no more, but becomes steril,
and is doomed to slaughter. In general, they kill the male, and preserve the
female. There is a herd for the swine apart : and the fowls, the ducks, and
geese, and every kind, are kept distinct.
As to the various kinds of grain and plants which they sow and cultivate, they
are wonderful and numerous; and mention will be made of them in their
proper place.
To return to the description of the three hundred houses in the valley : they
196 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
have two churches among them, and the name of the place is Isai. Every
house here has a garden round it, the hedge of which is formed of cherry-trees
and plum-trees, &c. The ground is sown with herbs, and parsnips, radishes,
turnips, lettuces, &c.
SECT. IX.
COSSACK COUNTRY.— BOGOSLAFI.
THROUGH the whole of the forest we mentioned, they are making hedges, and
dividing each side among the people. As soon as we got clear of this forest,
and out of the narrow road, we proceeded another mile, making four in all, for
this day's journey ; and we came upon a large town with fortifications and a
castle, named Bogoslafi ; and crossed, in boats, over a large river near to it,
called Rosh. At this moment the Clergy of the six above-mentioned towns, in
their robes and with their banners and the children of the choir, attended by
their congregations, and the troops under the standard of the warlike Khatman,
the beloved of Christ, Zenobius, which was of black and yellow cloth with cross
streaks, were all wraiting for us on the banks of the river ; and when our Lord
the Patriarch stepped up from the boat, they all knelt down before him ; and he
kissed their crosses and images, as usual, and they kissed his cross and his
right-hand.
Then they took us, in great honour and reverence, to the church of Our Lady :
for of the three churches in the town this is one. The second bears the name
of The Trinity; the third is Saint Parasceve. There is hanging up in this church
of Our Lady, in guise of a chandelier, a large beast with many heads, each of
which is contrived to hold candles.
As for the Khatman Akhmil, he was encamped with his army outside the
town ; and information was sent to him of our arrival. On the forenoon of
Wednesday, notice was given us, that he was coming to make his salutations to
our Lord the Patriarch ; and we went out from our lodgings to meet him ; for
by them was the road to the castle, where they had prepared him an apartment.
At this moment he approached from the gate of the city with a numerous troop,
in the midst of whom it was impossible for any one to distinguish him, otherwise
than by observing that they were all clothed in handsome garments, and
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 197
accoutred with valuable arms ; whereas he wore mean and scanty clothing, and
was provided with armour of no price. As soon as he beheld our Lord the
Patriarch at a distance, he alighted from his horse, with all his attendants ; and
came and knelt down, and kissed the hem of the Patriarch's train, a first and a
second time ; then the cross, and his right-hand. And our Lord the Patriarch
kissed the Khatman's forehead.
Where are your eyes, ye Begs of Moldavia and Wallachia ? and where is
now your grandeur, wrhere your haughtiness ? Each of you is inferior in value to
any Prokonikos of the Khatman's suite, and in justice and moderation infinitely
below him. Kings and Emperors are unequal to the contest of magnanimity
with him ; for he immediately laid hold of the arms of our Lord the Patriarch,
and walked with him, step for step, till they entered the castle ; weeping as he
went. There they sat down to table ; and the several officers called by the
title of Prokonikos sat with them. It was delightful to witness the beauty of the
Khatman's language, his placid demeanour, his humility and condescension, and his
tears of joy ; for he was exceedingly pleased to see our Lord the Patriarch, and
loved him to an extreme, and said, " Praise be to God ! who has granted me
before my death to have a meeting with your Holiness." He conversed much
with the Patriarch on matters of climate and the winter season, and granted him
every thing he asked him : for the Beg of Wallachia, Kyr Constantine, and the
Grandees of that country, were in much fear of the Khatman, and in apprehen
sion of his coming upon them suddenly with his army, on account of what Matthi
Beg had done to him at the time of his discomfiture, and to his Cossack troops,
when Matthi slaughtered and made them prisoners, &c. They much therefore
entreated our Lord the Patriarch to intercede for them, that he would forgive
them ; and to beg him to write them a letter, which might tranquillize their
minds. The Khatman granted the Patriarch his request, and sent them what
they asked for. In like manner, Stephani, the new Beg of Moldavia, was in
great fear of the Khatman, for having caused the death of his son Timotheus,
and for other enormities which the Moldavians had been guilty of towards the
Cossacks, as far even as wilful murder of them; and he pardoned them also, and
sent to Constantine a letter in answer to theirs, in which he made many
inquiries as to their circumstances.
Then we presented to him our offering, on trays covered with napkins,
according to their custom. It consisted of a piece of stone, with the blood of
our Lord the Christ from the Holy Galgala ; a vessel of holy ointment ; a case
DD
1 98 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of scented soap, another of purified soap, and one of soap of Aleppo ; a case of
refined sugar, of lada and fruit, apricots and grapes ; a case of beans of coffee,
which he is very fond of ; some cassia fistularis ; and a valuable Persian carpet.
He was sitting, with his Vazir in front of him ; and his chief courtiers in
attendance, viz. his Grammatikos or secretary, and ten of his officers called
Prokoniki. All of them wore, as they are accustomed, their chins shaven : and
the meaning of the word Cazak, or Cossack, is this, viz. ' beard-shorn,' but
nourishing the whiskers.
This Akhmil is an old man, of those who have been most prospered by the
blessing of God : in possession of every quality to be a leader — and of the most
important of all, secrecy — he is the spontaneously chosen of his fellow-men.
There is no affair in which he is engaged to which he does not himself
attend ; and he is moderate in his eating and drinking and clothing. His
mode of conduct is conformable to that of the greatest of kings, Basil the
Macedonian, according as it is described in history. Every person who sees
him is in admiration of him, and says, " Is this that Akhmil, whose fame is
spread over the whole world ?" In the country of the Franks, as we were
informed, they have composed poems in his praise, and in celebration of his
wars and conquests ; so great is the blessing of God upon him, and so entirely
overlooked is the meanness of his person. Now Vasili Beg of Moldavia was
perfect in the majesty of his stature, and in the fierce command of his counte
nance, and was renowned throughout the universe for his wealth and treasures ;
and yet all this availed him nothing ; but in his first battle, and in his second and
third, and many times more, he was defeated, and put to flight. Where is thy
name, O Akhmil ! Where is thy personal appearance, and where are thy actions ?
Truly God is with thee ; and it is He who has raised thee to deliver his peculiar
people from their bondage to the nations ; as Moses formerly delivered the
Israelites from the servitude of Pharaoh, whom, with his followers, he over
whelmed in the Red Sea : but thou hast destroyed them, the filthy Poles, with
thy depopulating sword — glory to God, who has done in thee all these great
works !
When any person came to complain to him at table, or to address any discourse
to him, he used to talk with him in secret, in such a situation as that none could
hear what he said : and this was his constant practice. In respect to his manner of
sitting at table, let it be observed, that he placed himself in a lower seat, and our
Lord the Patriarch in the seat of eminence, according to the reverence due to
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 199
him in every assembly. He was not like the Begs of Moldavia and Wallachia,
who seated themselves in the centre,, and placed the Head of the Clergy below
them.
Then they brought upon the table some bowls of spirits, which they drank out
of noggins ; and the liquor was hot : but for Akhmil they set a silver cup of a
particular kind of spirit. Having first made the Patriarch drink, the Khatman
was the second to drink himself ; and then he sent down the cup to each of us,
for we were standing before him. How admirable this humility of a soul, which
may the Almighty preserve still long on earth ! He had no cup-bearers, nor any
officers to cover up and guard the vessels of his meat or drink, as is the fashion
of Princes, and even of subordinate Governors. Next they served up earthen
ware dishes of salt-fish boiled, and other eatables, in a plain way. There were
no silver plates, nor forks, nor spoons, nor any thing of the kind : and yet every
one of the servants of his servants had numerous chests full of bowls and cups
and spoons of silver and gold, with other treasure, gained from the Poles ; which
none of them desired or cared for here, being out on a military expedition :
but when they are at home, in their own native places, it is a different thing.
At even-tide he dismissed the Patriarch, sending him home in a carriage
drawn by one horse only, and accompanying him to the outside of the castle-
gate. Here were no princely coaches to be seen, covered with high-priced
cloths ; nor harnessed with a number of beautiful horses, though the Khatman had
thousands of the latter at his command : and though, at the moment, there was
a heavy fall of rain, he set out for his camp, with a white cloak thrown over him ;
and left us, after he had sent us our expenses for the road, with many excuses.
He furnished us also with a billet for meat and drink over the whole extent of his
territory, and for the use of horses and carriages ; and gave us letters to the
Emperor of Moscow and the Voivoda of Potiblia. This is what passed on the
present occasion.
SECT. X.
GOVERNMENT OF THE COSSACKS.— FORTRESS. OF BOGOSLAFL
IT should be noted, that the Government of the Polish Territory was for
merly divided into three portions ; one of which was this, now taken from the
Poles, and made his own by the Khatman Zenobius Akhmil, to the extent of a
month's journey in length, and of the same in breadth, all intersected with
200 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
forts and fortifications, like a pomegranate : the second portion is that which
remains at present in their possession : and the third is in the middle, which has
been utterly ravaged by the Khatman, who has burnt its towns and villages, and
slaughtered its inhabitants; saving the better part of them only for slavery
among the Tartars, and laying it a waste and empty desert, so as to form a
border between the two nations, of some days' journey.
The Khatman has now with him eighteen Polkonios (^^GjjCo) or Pashas,
each of whom governs many towns and forts of immense population ; some four
or five of them having the command each of fifty or sixty market-places. Their
force in regular troops is sixty, fifty, or at least forty thousand fighting men ;
and the smallest of them has under him twenty market-towns and post-
stations. In all, they have twenty thousand stations for their troops ; the whole
of which are gathered to Akhmil at the season of his expeditions, to the
amount of more than five hundred thousand, practised and instructed to the
utmost in the various arts and stratagems of war. At present, there appeared
under his command about one hundred thousand valiant warriors, all in the
prime of life and vigour, and expert horsemen and tacticians. Formerly, their
armies were composed of peasants, without any experience whatever in warfare,
who gained instruction as occasion led ; but the youths just mentioned had all
learnt horsemanship and bravery, and to throw the spear and fire the musket,
from their infancy.
It is proper to remark, that all these troops are destitute of pay ; but they
sow their fields to whatever extent they please, and in due season reap their
harvests and gather them into their barns ; and no person takes from them one
in ten, or any other portion, but they are entirely exempt from all such exac
tions : and this is the condition of the whole agricultural population of the Cos
sack country. They know nothing of imposts, or taxes, or tithes. But Akhmil
gathers into his coffers all the receipts of custom taken on the frontier of his
territory, from the merchants, and the excise on mead and beer and spirits, to
the sum of one hundred thousand dinars yearly ; and this suffices for his annual
expenditure ; for in addition to it he receives not an item.
Now these accounts of Akhmil and the Cossacks, which we have so distinctly
commemorated, were collected with the utmost care ; and noted by me on the
instant, after many questions to investigate their accuracy, and much labour to
ascertain their truth. How many sleepless nights have I passed in writing them,
neglectful of repose, in the prosecution of my task !
The fortress of Bogoslufi, before mentioned, is strongly fortified with a
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 201
double wall and moat, one within the other. Its towers are numerous ;
and its south side rests wholly on the top of the hill. Under it is the river,
which coasts the town, and is banked by huge rocks. It contains a lofty and
magnificent palace, which belonged to the Poles ; and also a church of theirs,
which our Lord the Patriarch gave the Cossacks permission to consecrate and
use for prayer. In general, the Cossacks had made ruins of all the churches
of the Poles, and rased them to the ground, thinking to root out the memory of
their founders ; and for this reason they abandoned their public buildings and
princely palaces to desolation, (for, as the Poet says, there is no true enmity but
that which springs from religion,) and devoted them to be receptacles of filth
and nastiness.
After this we left Bogoslafi, on Thursday the twenty-third of Haziran : and our
way fell through the camp of the Cossack army and Akhmil, where all the troops
were at their quarters, in readiness for their march ; and the Khatman sent to
invite our Lord the Patriarch to come to him, intimating that for the sake of
this visit he had delayed the commencement of the expedition. We entered,
therefore, into the midst of the squadrons : and you might have seen the men,
by thousands and tens of thousands, hastening and pressing forward to kiss the
hand of the Patriarch, and his cross, on their knees ; so that the horses of the
coach \vere unable to proceed for them, and we were alarmed and incommoded
by their multitude.
At length we arrived at the tent of the Khatman Akhmil, a small and mean
apartment, from which he came forth to meet the Patriarch; who, as the
Khatman knelt at his feet, read over him the Prayer for War and Victory, and
invoked a blessing upon him and his army. Then the Khatman took him by
the shoulder, and led him into his tent ; which was spread with no costly woollen
carpets, but only with mats of the meanest quality : there he had been sitting at
his dinner, with the table spread before him, and no other dish laid on it but a
mess of boiled fennel. At the same time we observed the servants of the army
fishing in the lakes around, for their own sustenance. What frugality and con
tentment ! — After the Khatman had made us drink some spirits, we rose up ; and
he went out with the Patriarch, who gave him his blessing ; and we departed.
As for the army in general, they have no tents : they plant the trunks or
branches of trees round them, in the form of a tent, throwing their ^^coo or
cloaks over the inclosure, to keep off the rain ; and with this they are perfectly
satisfied. God's blessing be upon them !
202 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. XL
COSSACK COUNTRY.— KOKARI, TRIPOLIS.
THIS day we travelled four great miles, over a verdant plain of equal breadth
and length ; till we came, in the evening, to a town called Kokari, which was
formerly protected by a fort, since destroyed in the late wars.
From this place we arose on Friday ; and passing by two large villages, and
over the distance of three miles, we came to a large town, called Tripolis, by
reason of its being three towns, with their forts, united. Before you come close
to it, you seem to be looking towards a Tabor, or pitched camp, formed by
many large mounds of earth ; having an entrance to it, between two mountains
of mould, so very narrow, that only one person at a time can pass in. The
inhabitants came out to meet us.
On the top of one of the hills is a large and strongly fortified castle, with
a double wall and moat ; but most of the houses are empty, this place having
been formerly the central abode of the Jews ; and now their handsome dwell
ings and shops and bazars are deserted, and without a single inhabitant. We
were then taken to a church there, which is dedicated to The Divine Manifesta
tion, or Epiphany : it is magnificent and large, and very roomy and beautiful,
excelling, in its size and embellishments, and in the number of its cupolas,
every other church of the Cossack country ; so that we were overpowered with
wonder as we entered it. The dome is very lofty ; and has two rows of windows
with glass, &c. This church was built by an Archon named Bano, about eight
years ago, soon after the conquest of this place by the Khatman. We performed
there, in the evening, the service of The Nativity of St. John the Baptist ; and
the next morning the "OgQgov.
Near it is the second castle ; which is magnificently built, is most handsome
in appearance, and is exceeding strong ; containing within it a princely palace,
the exterior view alone of which astonishes the beholder: its main cupola,
which is over the gate of the castle, is very beautiful, and of great height ; and
has above it another, designed for ornament and extent of prospect, and sur
rounded with an admirable parapet, from which a person may discover to the
distance of a day's journey. It is a much handsomer edifice than Kalinoska.
In front of the castle are the houses of the Poles and Jews, and their shops and
beautiful magazines, now entirely abandoned.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
When in Moldavia, we asked Yanaki the Jew, who had taken refuge there,
what the Khatman Akhmil had done to the Jews in Poland : he answered,
' He has done to them more injury, and made greater slaughter of them, than
ever Aspasianus (Vespasian) did of old :" — at which we laughed.
Here, in this country, we have been informed, that when Akhmil made his
appearance, and purified the earth of a number of thousands of Jews, and in
the progress of his enterprise came to this district, the whole that remained of
that people, including their greatest and richest individuals, repaired to a fort
called Dzoljini, with all their substance and wealth ; and strengthened it with
cannon, and stores of gunpowder, to protect themselves and their property.
Presently the Cossacks came up, and laid siege to them in the fort : and having
taken it by storm, they put to death all that were in it, by blows of sticks or
staves, not by the sword, to the number of twenty thousand souls : even the
children in the bellies of the pregnant women they ripped out with their spears,
and slaughtered them. After this sort, they destroyed the whole progeny : and
we were told that they killed in one town, called - — , seventy thousand Jews !
for these infidels were not content to tyrannize over the Cossacks, as men, but
they were in the habit of abusing their wives and daughters. The wrath of
God, therefore, was excited against them ; and against the Poles, who had placed
them in authority : and the Cossacks collected together and made a prey of
their wealth and treasures ; and divided among themselves, by the bushel, the
gold which was in barrels ; afterwards selling, for a vile consideration, the most
high-priced articles, such as silver dishes, for a piastre ; or a silver cup, or can
dlestick, or a thurible, &c., as they were ignorant of their value.
On the last-mentioned occasion, when the infidel Jews saw that they were
about to be taken by storm., they had the malice to throw, by night, into the lake
which flows round the castle, all their gold and silver, and their trinkets and
jewels : but the Cossacks, by their ingenious contrivances, and the quickness of
their sight, drew all out again, and the hopes and designs of the infidels were
disappointed.
Opposite to the above-mentioned church, in the other fort, is another
church, dedicated to St. Nicolas. The great river Niepros runs near this city ;
and on its banks here are built the ships which navigate the Black Sea.
204 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. XII.
COSSACK COUNTRY:— OBOKHOYA, KHAMOKA, VASILICO.
ON the morning of Saturday the twenty-fourth of Haziran we left this place :
and having travelled one mile, we came to another town, called Obokhoya, sur
rounded also with high ramparts. It contains two churches ; and in one of them
we assisted at the Mass of the Baptist. Afterwards we took a turn in the
FLamyvgt, or Fair, for buying and selling, which is every year held on his
festival.
Then we resumed our journey : and after another mile of road we came to a
ruined fort, in which was a church named in honour of St. Nicolas. After three
miles more we came to another village, called Kkamoka, in the neighbourhood
of a deep and broad river. During this day's journey we saw, on our road, great
numbers of the pine-tree. The hedges of the gardens and fields were all formed
of willow-trees, which are very abundant here (besides the common sort, there
was also the Grecian willow), and the smaller twigs of other plants close up the
hedge around them. Having performed a fourth mile, we were met by a
Sotenik, accompanied by fifty horsemen ; and arrived with his escort at the
town called Vasiliko: — and truly this place bears a name suited to its quality,
for it is a very large and magnificent city ; not single and alone, but consisting
of three large cities with castles and ramparts, one within the other, situated on
the top of a steep hill. They were all destitute of inhabitants ; for the plague
had come amongst them, and destroyed the whole population, about two years
ago. We were received by the Clergy, and the small remnant of their flock ;
who met us, with their banners, at the outside of the town ; and, having led us to
the highest part of it, introduced us into a magnificent church within the third
citadel, dedicated to the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius of illustrious memory,
patrons of the Cossack country. These were the first to display before its inha
bitants the method of a devout and angelic life, in cells and caves, as anchorets,
and to establish among them foundations of monks and monasteries ; and they
are therefore highly venerated by them.
This church is handsomely built, and lofty ; and its Iconostasis is of large
dimensions, like those of the Greeks. The picture of Our Lady, which is upon
it, is large and magnificent, and worthy of admiration : it was such as we had
never before seen, nor did we ever afterwards see any equal to it. So beautifully
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 205
was it painted, that it appeared to be endowed with speech. The drapery
was red velvet, exhibiting the usual mixture of light and shade, in a manner that
we had never before seen executed ; for, like the natural folds of velvet, the
sunk cavity was dull and shaded, whilst the upper ridge shone brightly pellucid.
The "-olden border which passed over her forehead, and descended on each side,
O 1
you would suppose was a stream of gold in a perpetual current ; and her cheeks
and mouth were so beautiful, that they astounded the beholder with admiration,
and appeared to be deficient in nothing but the activity of speech. (May the
peace of God be upon her!) As to Our Lord, he was in her bosom; and was
painted to perfection, having all the appearance of one that speaks. I had seen,
as before mentioned, a great number of pictures in the countries inhabited by
the Greeks, and in those I passed through coming to this place ; and I after
wards saw many, going hence to Moscow ; but I never beheld any like or equal
to this picture of the Virgin : for the Cossack painters, having borrowed the
beauties of form and face, and the colours of drapery, from the Frank artists of
Poland, now employ their acquirements in producing orthodox portraits of equal
merit, and prove themselves skilful masters of the limner's art. They possess
every invention, that is useful in pourtraying the human face, to insure a perfect
likeness ; and we had a proof of it, in the pictures of Theophani, Patriarch of
Jerusalem, and others of our acquaintance.
We were informed by the Archimandrite of the Great Convent here, that it is
in the present possession of thirty market towns, or large and populous boroughs,
such as we have described, and four hundred flourishing villages ; some of
which are in Poland, but still adhere to the convent, out of their love and confi
dence towards the Khatman Akhmil.
Afterwards they made us go down to the apartments belonging to the convent
called Yahariska, that which is dedicated to The Assumption of Our Lady, out
side the city of Kiov, and is known by report all over the world — that glory of
the Cossack nation, which we afterwards visited. For this town, and a hundred
others like it, are an ancient fief of the above-mentioned convent ; for the sake
of which so much calamity has occurred to the Poles, in consequence of the
malice of the priests of Jesus, or rather of the Devil, who wished to take it away
from the orthodox believers ; and it thus became the cause of their ruin and
utter destruction.
In this city are two other churches, dedicated to The Entrance of Our Lady
into the Temple, and to Saint Nicolas.
Afterwards we attended, in the first-mentioned church, at the Vespers of the
EE
206 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Eve of the Sixth Sunday after Pentecost, and early in the morning at the
"Ogfyov; then at Mass : and on leaving the church, we visited the garden belonging
to it, in the vicinity. It contained many cherry-trees, and bird's-heart and
almond trees ; and vine bushes, which we had not seen since we left Moldavia.
There wTas rue, and the double European dark violet.
SECT. XIII.
COSSACK COUNTRY.— CONVENT OF YAHARISKA.
ON Monday we set out, at break of day ; and having proceeded five miles,
accompanied by the Sotcniks and his troop, with their banners, we were there
saluted with their farewell; and advanced alone, over rough and narrow roads,
and through a large forest, till we approached a lake of water with dams and
mills, dependent on the afore-mentioned convent, the principal dome of which,
before our arrival at this spot, we perceived shining at a distance, together with
the cupolas of its church, called Saint Sophia. When we issued out to the face
of the hill, our Lord the Patriarch was met by the President of the convent,
whom they style Archimandrite ; as it is the practice in regard to all the Heads
of Convents in this country, as far as Moscow, to call them Archimandrites. He
was attended by a Bishop, who was on a visit at the convent, and by his Monks.
Having placed the Patriarch in the coach belonging to the establishment, which
was of princely appearance, and was covered all over with gold outside and
inwardly with red velvet, they proceeded with us to the convent. On our
passage were innumerable gardens, extending to a great width on each hand, and
planted with almond-trees and mulberries and vines. Every garden had its
buildings within it ; and the whole number of houses amounted to four or five
thousand, all forming part of the property of the said convent.
Then we came to a large city with walls and trenches ; and entered into a
princely wide street ; where we passed, first of all, by a convent of Nuns of rank
and family. Next we came to a large high tower of stone, cemented with
mortar, and white-washed ; which was the gate of the convent, and hung over a
church furnished with a great number of windows and a lofty cupola, named
after the Trinity ; for within it was a picture of the Banquet of Abraham and
the Angels*.
' The Author seems to contemplate some connexion between this picture and the doctrine of the
Trinity.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 207
Here they caused the Patriarch to alight from the coach, out of respect for the
holy monastery ; as even an Emperor, should he come, alights here, and walks
on foot : and here are strong iron gates, and posted sentinels. From this spot
they walked before us ; and we entered the Great Convent of the Assumption of
Our Lady, known in their tongue by the name of Yahariska ; meaning The
Monastery of the Caves, because the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius, who
built it, used to live in dens and caves under ground, called retreats of anchorets
and cells of hermits. On the left-hand side, as you enter these gates, is the afore
mentioned Church of the Trinity, above a flight of high steps. On one of the
gates is the picture of Saint John El Rahom, Patriarch of Alexandria, standing
erect, and clothed in a mantya ; with a barnita or cap on his head, which it is
the custom in this country for a Patriarch to wear : and we carried one with us,
made of black velvet ; but our Patriarch refused to wear it, though there was no
harm in it, and it was perhaps the most suitable dress. Round the saint were
groups of the poor and the sick, to whom he was throwing pieces of silver with
his right-hand, whilst he held in his left an open purse.
On the second gate was painted the representation of the Rich Man and
Lazarus ; the former sitting at his table, and attended by his friends and relatives
in elegant dresses, drinking wine ; Lazarus standing at the door and begging
alms, and repulsed and rejected by the banquettcrs. Then Lazarus comes and
sits down at the door opposite to them; and the dogs are around him, licking his
sores. Standing near to them is the Angel of Death, of a most disagreeable
form.
Between these two gates stood a wooden box, with a hole in the lid, and
fastened with iron rods and a padlock; that every person who entered, however
hard-hearted he might be, should, by looking at the picture, be induced to
throw into it an alms for the poor and destitute.
From this place there is a broad street to where the church stands ; and on the
right and left are the apartments of the Monks, which are handsome and neat,
with beautiful windows of large dimensions on their four sides, looking into the
street, and into the gardens and orchards of the inner courts. Each apartment
has three closets and three doors, which are closed with admirable iron latchets ;
and each room is painted in oil colours, and ornamented with all kinds of pretty
figures and landscapes ; and furnished with tables and sofas, and with stoves and
chimnies inlaid with handsome coloured tiles. There are also beautiful rooms for
libraries of esteemed and valuable books. In short, each apartment is adorned
with all sorts of ornaments ; and is comfortable, neat, and pleasant, so as to
208 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
dilate the heart of the persons entering it, and to prolong the life of its
inhabitant.
We were informed by the two Heads of Convents who were with us from the
Holy Mountain, that the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius built this monastery
on the model of the holy convents there ; whither, in the beginning of their
career, they had repaired, and where they had passed several years of devout
retirement.
On the side of the convent towards the street, are two beautiful gardens,
full of flowers and shrubs and the most delicate plants and herbs, and fenced
with handsome palings. About two years ago, there were near five hundred
Monks in this convent ; but in the plague we have mentioned there died of them
about three hundred, and there now only remain two hundred. They appear
very kind and modest in their demeanour, and cheerful in countenance. They
are always girt round the waist with a girdle, and robed in mantyas of woollen :
they are extremely clean in their persons, and gentle in their movements ; and
none of them are ever seen without beads in their hands.
Their eating is only once in the twenty-four hours ; and their whole life is
divided between retirement in their cells and public service in the church.
They all wear calpacks of black cloth, and a sort of fur of the same colour made
of wool resembling velvet ; with large flaps, that hang down over their eyes and
button under their chins : and when they uncover their heads in prayer, or in
the presence of a Chief Priest or their President, these caps fall back behind
their necks, like the cowls of the Capuchins: but they are more agreeable in
appearance than the latter, and better looking than the Jesuits ; only their dress
and robes are similar.
In like manner is arranged the costume of their Archimandrite and their
Metropolitan and the rest of their Bishops ; except that these have golden crosses
always hanging, by chains, at their necks ; and their gowns have blue ornaments
reaching over the breast down to the feet, and white straps, like those of the
Chiefs of the regular Clergy, with which they are always girt during their
whole lives.
The Elders of the Monks, and their Presidents and Bishops, always hold in
their hands heavy sticks of rattan, with silver handles at the top, and spikes at
the bottom.
When we approached the Great Church, there came out from it eight couples
of Priests, each couple robed in uniform ephlonias ; next to them four Deacons,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 201)
every two in uniform sticharias, and carrying censers in their hands ; but the
Priests held in theirs the Gospel, and the pictures and valuable gold crosses.
Thus they led us to the steps of the church : and our Lord the Patriarch entered
the choir, whilst they chaunted, &c.*
Afterwards they took us to the banquetting-room, in the admirable apartments
of the President ; where they set before us, first, sweets and confections ; that is,
confection of sweet green walnuts entire in their shells, and confection of
cherries and other fruits, with many sweet herbs which we never saw in our own
country ; bread kneaded with honey and the said herbs ; and spirits. After they
had removed these, they laid the table with various kinds of Lent-meat, drest with
saffron and sweet herbs ; and pans of fritters of oil-paste, called Zangal (JXi>;),
and Catriyabis (^4^' Dry Drops), and so forth. For drink, they first presented
mead ; then beer ; then an excellent red wine, from their own grapes.
Their manner of serving the dishes was, to place a certain number on the
table, and after a short time to remove them and bring others, and so to con
tinue till their supply was exhausted; according to the practice of the Turks; and
not as is the custom in Moldavia and Wallachia, where they leave them one
upon another, to the end of the repast. Each kind of meat was brought and
placed before our Lord the Patriarch first, until he had eaten a little of it ; then
they passed it down the table, and to the other tables ; and finally removed it.
After the meats were disposed of, they presented a dessert of fruits of various
kinds ; such as, the royal cherry, both sweet and acid ; grapes ; a sort of sweet
fox's grape, looking like red coral, with sweet golden berries t ; and another
sort resembling green sour grapes, the name of which is Akrist J, Sic.
Such is the order of their bancmets ; and all the table furniture, whether
b IA
. <
JSA^ i tbla
+>
t The Archdeacon apparently means the Red-currant; a fruit with which, for the first time, he no\\
becomes acquainted.
£ This is, probably, intended as the description of the White-currant.
210 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
dishes or plates or spoons, which they set before us in this place, or elsewhere in
this country, was all of silver.
On rising from table, we retired to our lodgings : and as around this monastery
there are three and twenty churches, wherein the Monks say their prayers, those
which are between the gardens being open to the public, we visited all that were
on our path, and paid our devotions to their images. Their names are &c.
This is the description of the Great Church [here follow its dimensions, de
corations, and other peculiarities, but little different from the samples of eccle
siastical edifices already given in this worl^: and we may add to what we have
mentioned, that it is entirely supported by pillars and columns of magnificent
and lofty forms, and that it is furnished, throughout the whole circuit of the
interior, with stalls for seats.
The apartments of the Archimandrite are in a large court, the top of which
they form, having a very high cupola in the centre, with a handsome parapet all
round, looking over the vast river Niepros, which flows beneath the gardens of
this convent.
And now they conducted us to the Archimandrite's garden ; to which we
descended by a flight of steps. The entrance is by a gate under a lofty arch ;
over which is a dome entirely formed of the small twigs of branches, interlaced]
trained upwards, both inside and out, and terminating in a roof of the thick-
ess of an ell. The inside of the texture looks like grass, as all the stems are
This plant has abundance of thorns, like the yellow jessamine, or that
. of jessamine called Hamavi (^ Jl), and springs up from the ground in
this surprising manner, so as by the'intertexture of its branches to form a close
Whenever a shoot springs out of the line, they crop it with a pair of
scissors. Thus all the hedges forming the divisions of this garden are made of
it ; and you see it shooting up to the breadth of an ell, and the height of two.
Its width is so equal, that it resembles a wall ; and whatever twig shoots beyond
esigned surface is immediately clipped off. This plant bears a fruit, of which
we ate, resembling unripe grapes, except that it is sweet; and they call it
*
In this manner, by constant planting and clipping, they make
admirable fences to their gardens.
Among the trees here are the apricot and the mulberry, of which latter there
s great abundance ; and we were informed that the late Metropolitan of the
» There appears to be confusion in this passage. It might be supposed that the hedges were
i of some plant very different from the White-currant bush, to which the latter part of this
description should seem to be referred.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 21 1
Cossacks fed on them the silk-worm, and produced some excellent silk : but the
most abundant tree of all is the walnut : and of their grapes, which they have
plentifully, they make a deep red wine, which is distributed hence to all the
churches of the Cossack country.
It should be noted, that in every large convent, and in the palaces of the
Metropolitan and the other Bishops, some of the great Archons attend as
retinue, each having the dignity of Proconicos. They are called Servants of the
Convent ; and when the Metropolitan, or Bishop, or Archimandrite, rides in his
coach, they go before and behind, on beautiful high-priced horses, in rich
dresses, and accoutred with the finest armour. In every apartment of the
dignitaries mentioned, and even in the cells of the Priests and Monks, there arc-
o
valuable arms in great number and of various kinds, such as muskets, cross
bows, daggers, swords, bows and arrows, &c.
The bell-towers outside the doors of the Great Church are two, opposite
each other, on the west. They are square, and raised in wood to a great
height. One of them is very high indeed ; and the ascent to it is similar to
that of the Moazsinato Isa, at Damascus. It is very large ; and has a number of
rooms within it, on a winding staircase. At the top are hung, on beams, five
large and small bells. It also contains the great iron clock, the sound of which
is heard to a wide circuit. The works are closed up in a small room. Every
quarter of an hour it strikes once, on a fine-toned bell ; and when the hour is
complete, it strikes four times with a low chime, then it gives the number of the
hour on a large bell. At this time, on this twenty-seventh day of the month
Haziran, it struck, in the evening, four and twenty complete ; the day being
seventeen hours and a half, and the night six and a half. It has also, on the
outside of the wall, a sun-dial : and on the wall of the stone tower belonging to
the Church of the Trinity there is another clock suspended, which, when the
great clock has struck twenty-four in the evening, instantly beats, with a huge
noise, on a plate of iron, and repeats the sound a number of times, that it may be
heard by all who are without the convent, and they may enter and bolt the1
gates.
The second tower is opposite to the first, and is lower than it, containing a
vast large bell, to which we had seen none equal : it resembles a small tent in
size, and weighed about fifty Aleppo quintals.
21-2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. XIV.
GROTTO AND CELLS OF THE COSSACK SAINTS.
Ox the Tuesday before the Feast of the Apostles, we went to visit the church
dedicated to The Adoration of the Cross ; in which are thousands of bodies of the
Saints who passed their lives in religious solitude ; whose fame is spread over
the whole world.
It is situated below the great church at the foot of the mountain ; and has two
cupolas, covered with tin, and surmounted with crosses. Its Iconostasis is new
and handsome ; and the fashion and gilding of the royal door are such, that it
looks as if made of solid gold. After we had assisted at mass here, they led us
down into a grotto excavated to a great length in the mountain ; and conducted
us to the cave wherein had been passed the devout life of the Saints Anthonius
and Theodosius, wrho wrere the first in this country to display this angelic
method of religious solitude. We had with us an abundance of wax torches ; and
we beheld the bodies, still enveloped in their devotional garments, and begirt
with narrow iron girdles; all of which have remained in their original state
from the time of the saints' death until now : as it has been said of them, that
'' The wonders of God are in his Saints, and all his will is in them." This we
verified with our own eyes ; and evidently witnessed and saw such miracles as
astonished our senses : for by what but a miracle could their bodies, like to ours,
be preserved entire until now in their natural state, without preparation or
artifice ; the bright red hair of their heads remaining perfect, to the surprise of
the beholder ? True to their devout purpose, they terminated their lives in this
dark abode, or rather this bright cavern, as illuminated by their presence. The
whole grotto is lined with very small cells, hardly wide enough for young
children to occupy ; in which, though there was not room for them to turn
themselves, they nevertheless spent years of their lives, without bread, supported
only by herbs. Some made themselves close prisoners in their cells, and were
supplied with meat and drink through a niche above. One dug for himself a hole
in the ground, so as to admit one half of his body ; and there spent years of
his life and died, where he is yet standing, as though alive,, with his face
turned to the east.
Another devoted himself to God in this cavern ; and having passed his life,
and died there, was buried in a grave. He had a brother, who was a hermit on
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 213
the Holy Mountain. This brother came to visit him ; and finding that he was
dead, he immediately took possession of his cell, and there passed his time in
devotion till his deeease. He was taken to be interred by the side of his
brother ; but the grave, as he lay, being too narrow,, the brother who had been
dead some years turned on his side to make room for him ; and remains to this
day with his knees drawn close up, to the wonder of the beholder, and the glory
of God !
As to the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius, the two great Patriarchs of the
Cossacks, their cells are together ; and near them is a table of stone, cut in the
rock. Over the cells is a place in the rock from which water dropped, supplying
the two saints with drink, and affording a sufficiency also for the rest of the her
mits. Close by is a neat church, with an Iconostasis, looking quite new, though
it is now some hundreds of years since they first said mass in it : and this service
is still continued there, by the Priests of the convent.
There are three other churches in this cavern, intended for the use of the
other hermits ; each with its Iconostasis, where mass is still celebrated.
Near to the cell of the two saints before mentioned stands a wooden post ; to
which insane persons are tied, and they instantly recover their health.
We knelt down before the heads of these saints, and kissed them and their
cheeks,, from which virtue transpires ; and they are yellow like gold. They are
placed in glass vessels, apart : but of the other holy hermits twelve together are
heaped one upon another, in one grave.
We were informed that the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius came to this
country, from Romelia, in the time of the Emperor Basil the Macedonian, at his
command, and converted the inhabitants to Christianity. These were the
pastors who built this magnificent church, with many others. After them a
great number of persons devoted themselves to God, in this cavern ; where they
breathed their last. To enumerate them all would be impossible for me, as they
approached to near a thousand. One half of them are exposed to view : the
rest are covered up in their cells, which are closed on them. Their two chiefs
are known to fame throughout the universe ; and may the blessing of God be
upon us, from their prayers !
We then left the grotto ; and passed along the foot of the mountain (below
which flows the vast stream of the River Niepros, at a small distance from the
place we had been visiting), to another church, containing the bodies of the two
ancient saints of the same name. For the Saints Theodosius and Anthonius,
FF
214. TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the chiefs of their names, that is to say, Anthonius the Great and Theodosius
the Great, were, the one the light of the deserts of Askit (LjyLjQ, the other of
the wilderness of Palestine. These arc well known : but the others of the same
name, whose appearance was in later times, were the first persons who displayed
the Angelic Institute in these regions, and became a light to the country of the
Cossacks and the Muscovites. On their arrival here, they excavated this church,
and the grotto at the foot of the mountain ; and here passed a length of time, in
the practices of devotion, attended by numerous disciples. Having a great
desire for the establishment of coenobites and convents, they built a church for
the congregation of the Hermits : for in the base of this mountain, which hangs
over the River Niepros flowing below, are many cells, inhabited to the present
day by a multitude of anchorites.
The spot where the great church now stands was the highest point of a vast
forest sloping to the top of the mountain, where Our Lady the Virgin appeared
to them, in the midst of the bush and thicket, in flames of fire ; and the bush was
as though it burned ; in the same manner as was seen by Moses formerly on
Mount Horeb. She said to them distinctly, " Build here, in my name, a large
convent and church." They went forth, therefore, abandoning their cavern ;
and began to build the church, until it was finished by the aid of the pious
monarch of that time. Afterwards they formed this cavern, and there died.
For this cause, until the present time, pictures are continually painted, in great
numbers, representing The Virgin in the Burning Bush, and the Saints Anthonius
and Theodosius standing in the attitude of listeners to her oracle. The foun
dation of this great convent is referred to them by the token of placing between
them, in the middle of the picture, a plan of the edifice as it now stands ; and up
to the present day, whenever the Priests in this country arrive at the conclusion
of their prayers, they always subjoin, " By the intercession of Saints Anthonius
and Theodosius of the Convent of Yahariska-"
In the said cavern are many vaults, and three churches, with their Iconostases
and images ; near to which are the cells and the tables still existing, of an
uniform appearance, similar to those of the other cavern : and here are also
many dead bodies ; but they are much decayed, being, as we have mentioned, of
greater antiquity than the others, and having remained all this length of time,
under ground, in damp and corruption. Most of them are covered up from
view. Among them are the bodies of two youths, in wonderful preservation :
their heads are of a yellow colour, and virtue still exudes from them. There is
TRAVELS OP MACARIUS. 215
also the body of a Bishop, which they translated from Moscow, in a coffin hol
lowed out of a single piece of wood.
We left this cavern filled with astonishment and delight ; and may the
Almighty grant us the benefit of the intercession of all these holy devotees !
Amen !
At this moment the Archimandrite sent his coach for us ; and we rode in it till
we came to the convent among the gardens, which it was necessary to reach by
a Ion" and difficult ascent : and we immediately sat down to table.
SECT. XV.
CONVENT OF NUNS, AND PRINTING-HOUSE.
ON the Wednesday preceding the Feast of the Apostles, came the Abbess of
the Convent of Nuns, entitled after The Divine Ascension, and intreated our
Lord the Patriarch to attend mass in their convent, and to read over them the
Prayer of Absolution and give his blessing to the reverend virgins.
We proceeded thither accordingly ; and they all came out to meet us. It is
a very flourishing establishment, and consists of more than fifty or even sixty
Nuns, all women of rank and family, with faces bright as the sun, and gowns of
black woollen, reaching below their feet. No man is ever permitted to go in
among them. For their supply of water, they have, in the interior of the
cloister, an immense well ; which is drawn by the hand, with a windlass and two
chains ; one with the rising, the other with the sinking bucket.
Most of these Nuns are of rich and ancient Polish Houses : the Abbess is of
the family of the King of Poland himself. Induced by their love of this
convent, wherein most of them were educated, they come and profess, and
remain here as Nuns. The edifice stands in the midst of gardens, with the
beautiful church in the centre, built of wood, and adorned with pillars, domes,
and crosses.
As soon as we had entered it, the Nuns began to sing *AJ«v e<rm &c. and all
the Prayers and Responses of the Mass. In this church is a large T^/a of silver ;
of which metal are also the two candlesticks on the table. Both on it, and on
the pictures of Our Lord and Lady, and on the picture of Ascension Thursday,
and the portraits of the Virgin Martyrs, are crowns and crosses, and miniatures
and pendants, and chains of gold and silver, with pearls and precious-stones
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
to a great amount in value. On the walls are the images of the Ten Vir
gins with their lamps, and portraits of noble Saints and Martyrs of the
female sex.
They placed us in the north choir ; and standing by themselves in the south
choir, they attended to the mass, now begun by their Chaplain, who was sur
rounded by his Candalifa (^Joif). Presently they commenced singing and
chaunting, with a sweet voice and tune which affected the heart and drew tears
from the eyes : it was a soothing searching melody, greatly to be admired
above the chaunting of men. There was a softness in their intonation quite
new to us ; and we were particularly delighted with the voices of the young
girls, both great and small. In reading and writing they were all well in
structed, and were also acquainted with the sciences and belles lettres. The
" Ayiog, and 'AXXjjXoyia, and Kvgie, IXzqtrov, they chaunted as with one voice ; and
one of them read the Epistles very clearly and distinctly. They chaunted the
Psalms also, and the Tlgoxslpevov, with a peculiar melody.
At the time of the "A?iov itrriv, they struck the great bell ; and all the Nuns
walked from their seats to the middle of the choir, where they knelt on the
ground, and chaunted it in a delightful manner.
After they had received the mysteries, and the 'Avritiuga, had been distributed
among them, they intreated our Lord the Patriarch to read over them the
Prayer of Absolution ; and they bent themselves to the ground, and he
prayed over them, and afterwards crossed them with the 'Ay/ao^oj.
Under the care of these Nuns are many girls of all ages, wearing fur caps on
their heads ; whom they bring up to the religious habit ; most of them being
orphans.
When we had gone forth from the church, the Abbess took us to her
apartments ; where we breakfasted on sweetmeats and confections of an admirable
quality, and on bread kneaded with honey, upon which we drank spirits.
Then, with the permission of the Patriarch, they wrote on a large sheet of paper
the 2yy£a>^r;xof, or Prayer of Forgiveness, for all the Nuns; and the Patriarch
signed it with his hand, according to their faith : — and we returned to our
lodgings.
In the vicinity of the great church is the excellent Printing-House, which is
known by repute all over this country ; where all their church books are beau
tifully printed, in various forms and sizes ; as also fine large maps of the towns
and provinces, pictures of the Saints, intellectual disquisitions, &c. Here we
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 217
printed, as other Patriarchs had done before us, a complete set of
with the signature of our Lord the Patriarch in red ink, exhibiting his name as
written in their language, and adorned with the picture of St. Peter the Apostle.
We had them of three kinds and sizes. The full size was for the Grandees, the
middle for common men, and the smallest for the women.
On this day there came to our Lord the Patriarch, on a visit, the Kyr Silvestris,
Metropolitan of Kiov, and of all the Cossack country, that is, Little Russia. He
came in a coach adorned with red cloth, attended by two Bishops and two
Heads of Convents, all wearing golden crosses appended to their bosoms by
gold chains, and their gowns of ordinary habit. He was escorted by servants,
mounted on fine horses, and riding in their rich clothes and armour in front and
in rear. On saluting our Lord the Patriarch, they placed their crosses on his
neck, according to their custom.
SECT. XVI.
COSSACK COUNTRY .-—CHURCH BELLS, AND CEREMONIES.
Ox the Eve of the Feast of the Holy Apostles, they first struck the bell of the
great church a few tolls, merely as a signal to the churches around ; and these
immediately began to ring their bells : and the people all assembled in the Church
of St. Peter and St. Paul, which is within the apartment of the Abbot ; and there
went through the service of the Great Vespers. After their departure, the
officiating Minister, and the Deacon, and the Candilafkt, came to our Lord the
Patriarch, and took his permission ; and then they went and set all the bells in
motion, including the great bell of vast size, which requires the whole force of
eight men to move it, as they stand, four on each side, with the thick bell-ropes
m their hands. The voice of this bell is like thunder, and it is frequently heard
to the distance of three hours' journey ; for its ring is clear, and its iron tongue
is about fifteen pounds of the Aleppo standard in weight. The vault and beams
from which it was suspended, and indeed the whole huge tower, moved and bent
and quivered with its ponderous vibration.
Then we entered the church ; and they performed the Small Vespers : after
which we withdrew. But two hours of the night had scarcely elapsed before they
a^ain sounded all the bells, including the large bell ; and we returned to the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
&c.» It was near break of day when we retired to our
church for the '
lodgings.
In the evening of the preceding day they had solicited our Lord the Patriarch
to say mass for them ; and before the time of the service they gave a signal first
by stnkmg the great bell several times, and then all the other bells be^an to
sound for mass in the great church belonging to the Monks ; and the laity both
men and women, and the Abbess with her Nnns, attended. Then the officiating
came with his Deacons, and they took each a torch ; afterwards the
Candahfat did the same ; whilst the bells continued ringing all toother Then
we moved forward in like manner, and robed, in company with a number of
Priests and Deacons : but they would not suffer us to put on our own
they gave us, instead, some of their richest vestments, thinking, as we
came from a holy land, that we should sanctify them.
Then we went forth, all in a body, to meet our Lord the Patriarch with the
liunble and wax-torches in our hands, to the outside of the church • and we
afterwards began to dress him in his pontifical robes above the circle in the
,r, round which all the Priests were ranged. Then we went out ,i( ^
J Jl Uj.il (^ ^ UK, . ^ Ujjis ^^} ^
-
^
JU. .
• . i
TRAVELS OF MACARTUS. 219
. On tliis day they displayed their several copies of the Gospel, covered
with gold ; and their sumptuous thurible and crosses.
At the time of the Epistles, one of the Deacons stepped forth to read the
Epistle of the day ; and I recited the Gospel for the Apostles in Arabic ; and,
according to their custom here, that for Our Lady, in Greek.
After the Patriarch had thrown incense over the holy mysteries, the Grandees
of the convent, that is, the superior officers, came and stood before the royal
door ; one of them carrying a silver ewer, and another a silver basin ; whilst
the rest held open a large fringed towel, which the Patriarch used to wipe his
hands, after he had washed them : and this ceremony they repeated at the end
of the mass.
At the Declaration, when mention is made of the Heads of the Clergy, we
recited the name of our Patriarch ; whilst they commemorated Paisius the
Patriarch of Constantinople, and their own Archimandrite.
After his Holiness had washed his hands, they brought him the 'Aw'^a, and
he partook of them : then they presented him wine in a silver cup ; and he
drank of it, to comply with their custom. In like manner, they presented
bread and wine to us.
At the offering of the chalice, the Abbess came, with her Nuns and attendants,
to communicate : a Deacon went out, therefore, from the Tabernacle ; and they
opened the KaXw^a, or large veil, before the chalice, that nothing might be
shed upon the ground (a reverence and pious caution that deserve to be noted) ;
and as each approached, they gave her of the 'Avr/taga, and then made her
drink a little of the wine. Afterwards the Patriarch came out, and distributed
the 'Avrfietgu, to all, even to the little children.
We now left the mass for the banquet ; at which, after the sweetmeats and
spirituous liquors, they served up some princely dishes, which we had never in
our lives beheld ; such as, etuv6e of eggs, stuffed with spring-herbs, and 6tuvee
of fish, au lait d'amandes : the sauces were all of pure saffron, though it is very
dear with them ; and almonds are still dearer, the okka being frequently sold at
ai dinar or more : and the fine herbs, which they used in such abundance, are
also dear. In this luxurious diet they constantly indulge themselves in this
country, having learnt it from the generous Poles.
On the Eve of Saturday, after Vespers, the Et<rodo$ was performed a second
time, by four Priests in black copes, attended by the Deacons in black 2r;^a^a and
sashes. Then one of them, who was the chief, took permission C^tf Jo-)), anc^
went round to make his bow to the reading-desk, on which was placed the dish
220 TRAVELS OF MACARTUS.
of boiled meat ; then to the images ; then to our Lord the Patriarch, twice :
and to the Priests, and the rest of the assistants ; and came and stood in his
place. In like manner did his three companions ; and, last of all, the Deacons ;
whilst the singers cliaunted the Canon for the Dead. On even- Kve of Saturday
*/ " t
they perform this ceremony, in commemoration of the deceased, and of those
who built the church : and on this occasion our Patriarch read the Prayer for
the Souls of the Departed : after which they concluded the service. Hereupon
they intreated our Lord the Patriarch to read over them the Prayer of Absolu
tion ; and they threw themselves on the ground, and he prayed over them.
Then they recited over them the Prayer for Sleep ; and we left the church.
On Saturday morning, when they had performed other similar ceremonies,
we took leave of them, to proceed on our travels : and they led the Patriarch
into the church again; and brought him holy water, to cross all their foreheads.
After which we went forth from the convent, where we had stayed from Tues
day till Saturday ; and the Patriarch was placed by the Archimandrite in his
coach, preceded and followed by two servants of the convent ; in which he rode
till we came to the Monastery of the Church of St. Sophia. This is the See of
the Metropolitan of Kiov, and of all the country of the Cossacks, which is Little
Russia. Here the Archimandrite bade us adieu, and returned.— Our journey
had been only of about half-an-houf s duration ; for the two places are very
near each other.
We were met by the brother of the Metropolitan, Silvestris, and his Bishops,
and the Heads of his monasteries ; and we alighted at his palace. They had
been in expectation of us, to attend mass with them : and at the time of the
ringing of the great bell we went up to look at it ; and we saw, to our astonish
ment, that it was larger, seven or eight times larger, than the bell of the Convent
of Yahariska, having the appearance of a vast tent. The iron tongue or
tapper was about a quintal and a half weight, of Aleppo ; and twelve stout
youths had to exert all their strength to move the immense engine ; not one of
them being able, singly, to stir even the clapper inside ; nor was it to be
reached from the rim of the bell, so vast was the latter in its width. When it
rang, our ears were deafened by its thundering sound ; and I spoke to my com
panion with my loudest voice without being heard. The strong high tower of
wood in which it was suspended, larger than any of the towers we had yet seen,
bent and shook as it swung in motion. The sound, however, of the bell of
the Convent of Yahariska is shriller and louder : this has a baser and more
nasal tone, declaring it to be of the Emissa compound.
TRAVELS OF MACARIl S.
221
We went in to assist at mass in the venerable church, the second St. Sophia ;
which truly bears a name suitable to its quality, as our own eyes testified. Its
description we will give in its proper place.
From mass we went to table; and in the afternoon, which was the Eve
of the Seventh Sunday after Pentecost, we returned to Vespers. A^ was per
formed in the outer Na^f ; and the Deacon said, " Save, O Lord, thy people,"
with the rest of the Vigils. The next day, mass followed in the usual course.
SECT. XVII.
COSSACK COUNTRY— ANCIENT CITY OF KIOV.
IT should be noted, that the ancient City of Kiov was situated here ; and till
the present time its gates and earthen walls and moats are apparent. We
observed the ruins of a huge gate and tower of stone, which they call the Gate
of the Tabernacle : it was entirely covered with gilt ; and was burnt latterly by
the Tartars, when they ravaged the city, and set fire to it. This town was as
magnificent as it was large : and outside its walls stood the Convent of Yahariska:
within it, in the centre, this Church of St. Sophia ; and the Monastery of St.
Michael, which has a dome still shining with gold, opposite to the church.
Round these buildings were other beautiful churches, in great numbers ; this
city having been formerly the seat of Government for the whole country,
according to the accounts which were given us.
When the light of the faith in Christ first shone forth from the East, in the
time of the Emperor Basil the Macedonian, in the year six hundred and fifty-
one from the present period, as it may be reckoned by the dates on the doors of
these churches and monasteries ; and, in consequence of the marriage of
Vladimiros King of Russia with the Emperor's sister Olikha, when she came to
this country attended by Metropolitans and Bishops, who baptized the Russian
monarch and all his people— a great nation, that, as historians relate, had no
knowledge of the holy Law, nor professed any religion ; hereupon the Empress
built a multitude of churches and convents, by the hands of masterly architects
from Constantinople ; and for this cause all the inscriptions on them are in the
Greek language.
At this time all the tribes of people dwelling round the territory of Kiov were
Pagans, without faith; they were Poles, Muscovites, Tartars, &c., and maintained
a continual war against the Empress : but she prevailed victoriously over them ;
GG
222 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
until the light of the Christian faith shone forth from her upon them, and they
believed ; with the exception of the Tartars.
At this early epoch, the Metropolitan of Kiov had jurisdiction also over the
whole extent of Muscovy : and this continued for sixty years, till the arrival
of Kyr Eremia, Patriarch of Constantinople ; who immediately established, as the
head of the Bishops of Moscow, a Patriarch in his own right, to rule and have
none to rule over him. For all these countries are submissive to the Patriarch
of Constantinople ; and the inhabitants are ever ready to extol his name, saying,
" From Constantinople beamed forth to us the light of the faith in Christ, and
thence we have derived our Ritual and our Ceremonies." Accordingly, the Con-
stantmopolitan is continually sending to them Exarchs, that is, to the country of
the Cossacks, and here gratuities are as constantly bestowed on them. This
Patriarch has cognisance, we were informed, over their religious houses.
In the apartments of the Archimandrite of the Convent of Yahariska we saw
ancient ^va-Tanzci, or Forms of Constitution, from the Patriarchs of Constan
tinople who have preceded the present for about five hundred years, written on
parchment, and purporting that this is an independent foundation. He shewed us
also similar documents from the late Theophani, Patriarch of Jerusalem., and
from the present Patriarch Paisius. He now had a like ^vtrraTiKov drawn up in
their language ; and our Lord the Patriarch signed it with his hand and seal. Its
purport was, the approval and confirmation of the Archimandrite, and that the
monastery was independent.
These Heads of houses are, some of them, learned in general science and in
the Law ; and are moreover skilled in Rhetoric, in Logic, and in the various
branches of Philosophy. They have questions among them under discussion of
great depth and research : but they are agreed not to style the Constantinopo-
litan Patriarch, OiftovfAsvixog, that is, Patriarch of the Habitable World ; they
give him merely the title of Archbishop : and for this they have much argument
and abundant evidences, with which they produced in us the greatest amaze
ment. The belief of all here, and of the whole country as far as Moscow, is,
that the Patriarch of Antioch is the master of loosing and tying, and the Successor
of Peter the Apostle, to whom alone Christ first committed the power of
loosing and tying in heaven and on earth, who is the most ancient of the
Patriarchs. From him, therefore, they received ^U^y^l j-y * or Papers of
Forgiveness, out of their faith and entire confidence in him.
15 I have inserted these words in the text to shew how incorrectly the Archdeacon has written the
the Forms which he borrows from the Greek.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 223
SECT. XVIII.
BAB A ELI A, AND THE FRENCH PHILOSOPHER.
ON this subject I will introduce here, as in its proper place, a story that may
prove itself both amusing and instructive. It is, that in this City of Kiov, which
we shall presently describe, there came to our Lord the Patriarch a distin
guished Ecclesiastic, by birth a Greek, whose residence was in Paris, the capital
of France. He was extremely eager to have an interview with us, having lately
come as Envoy from the Virgin Queen of Sweden to the Khatman Akhmil ; to
whom this Princess had sent, a considerable time ago, two Ambassadors besides
this man : and as her territory is contiguous to that of the Poles, these had
discovered the mission of her Envoys, and arrested them on their passage. She
had now, therefore, sent this Priest to Constantinople : and thence he was come
among the Cossacks, to the Khatman Akhmil; with a letter from her, addressed
to him, in praise of his achievements ; and in thanksgiving for his exertions and
for what he had done against her enemies the Poles ; who, as we formerly
mentioned, had made the conquest of much of her dominions. She wrote to
him : " You are to know, with all certainty, that I have been equipping for you,
on this side of my frontier, sixty thousand auxiliary warriors, to enable you
finally to vanquish my enemies." Accordingly, after this Eccclesiastic had had
an interview with the Khatman, this chief despatched letters, in answer to her,
by an Envoy of his own, who was to accompany him. With this Ambassador
therefore of the Khatman's the said Ecclesiastic proceeded to the court of the
Emperor of Moscow ; conveying also to him a letter of the like import : for
the confines of the Queen's territory are bordering on those of Muscovy, and
between them and the Emperor great friendship exists. In her kingdom, indeed,
the multitude of sojourning Muscovite subjects is great.
Here I say, by way of commentary, " Who art thou, O Akhmil ! to have
worn the peasant's clog (as thy enemies the Poles say of thee that thou didst) ;
and yet to be such, that Kings and Queens send embassies to thee, and offer
thee splendid gifts ? Glory be to God alone, who has raised thee up, and
humbled thy adversaries under thy feet ! "
To return :— This Priest, who was named Baba Elia, told us, that there had
appeared in these times, in the kingdom of France, a learned Philosopher, of the
sect of Lutherus, to whom numerous followers had become attached. This
man stepped forward openly to revile the Pope, by many demonstrations ; one
22 1 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of which was, that he sent a letter to the Pontiff at Rome, propounding to him a
question : — " There was a Prince of exalted dignity, who had five sons, all of
whom he loved with equal affection ; to whom he equally divided the suc
cession of his principality. So, however, it fell out, that one of them separated
from the rest, and turned aside, and surrendered himself to the suggestions of
his own mind ; whilst the other four remained true to their mutual friendship,
and to the last will and mandate of their father. Which, then, is the obedient
son ? he who singly went forth from his brethren to choose a path for himself, or
each of the four brothers who persevered in their fidelity ? "- -To which he sub
joined the answer, saying : " If the four Patriarchs, and the Pope, making the
fifth, have been constituted since the time of Petrus the Apostle and the rest of
the Apostles, and from the Holy Councils, and remained united, as is wrell known,
for a great length of time in the orthodox faith ; if afterwards the Pope declined
from them, and divided himself from the body of which he was a member,, or
rather from the hand of five fingers, himself being one ; then obedience is due to
the four consentients, not to the single dissentient." Baba Elia went on to say :
When the Pope read this letter, and there was not one of his Council who could
reply to it, out of the excess of his rage he sent to the reigning King of France
and commanded him to put the said Philosopher to death, lest this discourse of
his should be promulgated throughout the world, and the Church be defiled by his
opinions. The King answered, saying : " I have it not in my power to do that
which your Holiness enjoins me — to be active in detriment of my in-dweller ; for
there are now within my dominions two hundred thousand families that trust in
their religion to the guidance of this sectarian, and all love him ; whilst around
my territory, besides those within it, are numerous and powerful enemies, such
as the tribe of English and Flemish, the Swedish nation, &c. On the other hand,
your Holiness is in Rome, and there are none around you nor within your
estates but Romans. I have therefore no power to put him to death."
The aforesaid Philosopher gave also a second answer; that, " Whereas the
Pope pretends to be the Successor of Petrus the Apostle; the first to lay this
claim is the Patriarch of Antioch, because Petrus the Apostle was the first that
became Patriarch in that city, where he sat in supreme honour : in Rome, on
the contrary, he suffered an ignominious death on the cross."
We were informed by the same Priest, that in all the Frank countries much
love is felt towards the Patriarch of Antioch ; and that they have entire credence
in him, to the exception of all others but the Alexandrian. As for the Patriarchs
of Constantinople and Jerusalem, they hate the one, by reason of their national
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 225
relations; the other they detest, on account of his malignancy towards the
Franks who visit Jerusalem.
SECT. XIX.
ANCIENT CITY OF KIOV— CHURCH OF SAINT SOPHIA.
WE will now return to our description of Kiov, and of Saint Sophia. This
church is built on the plan of the original Saint Sophia of well-known celebrity,
and presents the same kind of arches, circumference, and ceiling : but its
ornaments of marble of various colours and forms, its diversified symmetry of
minute arrangement, the multitude of its pillars and their sublimity, the height
and breadth of its cupolas, the multiplicity of its windows and recesses, give it a
more peculiar and real title to so distinguished a name. Its form is square; and
its domes, and the whole of its structure, both within and without, is of stone
and tiles and mortar : but, unfortunately, one half of it, from the western nave, is
in ruins. It is related, that the Tartars, at a remote period, ruined it, and set
fire to it; and in that state of devastation it remained for one hundred years or
more, a resort for cattle and wild beasts. Afterwards it was repaired ; and again
destroyed by the Ghoniati (J^bo^l) or Russians in subjection to the Pope, who
tore up all the pavement, and the mosaic from the walls, to place them in their
own churches : for the whole of this edifice, we were told, was covered with
mosaic paintings ; and every porch and recess was so ornamented, both above
and below. It is said to have contained seventy tabernacles, or chapels, in its
lower and upper compartments.
After it had been ravaged by the aforesaid Poles, it remained in that ruinous
condition about seventy years, until the forth-coming of the late Petrus, called
Mohilov; I mean the brother of Moses, Beg of Moldavia, who was created Metro
politan over the country of the Russians : he laboured at its restoration to the
utmost of his power, and brought it to the state in which it now is. — God have
mercy on his soul !
At present, on the right-hand as you enter the western gate, are two ruined
and abandoned tabernacles ; the one called by the name of the Divine Column,
or the Pillar of Immersion, wherein is a Baptismal Font* of a hard red stone,
* Here follows a singular phrase U;l . ^U&J of, I suppose, the Modem Greek Theology.
Bein«- unacquainted with its full meaning, I have left it untranslated.
226 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
resembling porphyry : the other is within that, and occupies the rest of the
precinct.
Near to this great western gate are two other small gates on the rio-ht and
left : and at each corner of this nave is a large round tower of lofty structure,
with numerous battlements ; each having a door that opens to the west ; from
which you ascend, by a spacious and long flight of steps, to the second and highest
balcony on the roof of the church.
On the south side it had five gates in all ; and on the north it has now two,
one of which is used for the admission and thoroughfare of the troops of work
men : above it, on the ceiling, is the picture of Saint Sophia, and of Christ ; and
the rays of the Holy Ghost are descending on the church, whilst the Cashidiari
and the Persians in their turbans and with their long bows are shooting arrows,
and the Franks with their guns and muskets are making war against it.
On the east side are seven wide and lofty arches ; four of which are of equal
dimensions; but the other three are lower. On the upper gallery are two
tabernacles, opposite each other ; and in all the vaults are many large windows,
every one of which is filled with bright clear glass, even to the smallest arches,
and including every chapel &c.*
* The remainder of the description of this church, unworthy perhaps of the labour of translation,
yet possibly of some curiosity to certain readers, I here subjoin in the original Arabic:—
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
<Ui ^ — ,'.i- (.^^^l J&
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EXD OF FART THE SECOND.
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LONDON :
PRINTED BY R. WATTS, CROWN COURT, TEMPLE BAR.
1831.
PART THE THIRD.
THE COSSACK COUNTRY
AND
MUSCOVY.
BOOK V.
THE COSSACK COUNTRY.
SECT. I.
CITY OF KIOF.—ST. SOPHIA.
AROUND the holy arch of this Church of St. Sophia, a part of the description of
which was given in the preceding section of this narrative, is written in Greek what
we thus translated into Arabic : " God is in the midst of her, and she shall not
he shaken : God helps her from day-break to day-break : "—as it is related of the
building of St. Sophia, in Constantinople, that Justinian the Emperor wrote on
all its tiles to the same effect.
The Holy Table is very large, being laid to the size of the Tabernacle ; and
having in the centre a kind of bridge of boards, which rises step by step to a
great height, and holds the candlesticks in rows with their green wax tapers :
these, when lighted, form an arch of fire, which raises the admiration of the
beholder for its beauty and ingenuity. On the right of the Tabernacle is a door,
with a lofty window above it, through which you enter a chapel with a cupola
and two windows in the centre furnished with panes of glass, dedicated by the
title of " The Birth of Our Lady." Near this is another chapel like it, named
after St. Michael. So also on the left are four chapels ; two with lofty cupolas,
and dedicated to the Divine Burial and the Figured Handkerchief (of St.
Veronica) : the fourth is by the name of St. Nicolas. The Iconostasis which
is over the doors of these chapels or tabernacles is much to be admired, and
is very magnificent : it is quite new, and astonishingly beautiful ; and so large,
and divided into such a variety of compartments, and so much gilt and orna
mented, that no man's pen is adequate to its description.
Hn
230 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The height of the royal door is six cubits ; and it is surmounted by an arch
resembling that of a city-gate. Its breadth is two cubits and a half: it is
divided into two folds, as usual ; and the inside is formed into a kind of vault. It
is all carved and gilt : and over one of the folds is the figure of a pelican, in silver,
striking into her side with her bill, and the blood is flowing on her young ones
beneath. This it is impossible for any person to distinguish from work in solid
metal. The paintings of sacred images are twelve, all very large and magnifi
cent : around the whole of them are thick solid pillars carved and gilt, and they
are all sunk into a kind of vault. As for the pillars which inclose the images of
Our Lord and Lady, they are exceeding large, being of full length, with frames
carved and hollowed, and ornamented with flowers and vines, and green and red
grapes that look transparent. Over this Iconostasis, and the Symbolon, the entire
space is covered with a very wide screen, all carved and gilt, and stretching to
the extent of the doors of the four tabernacles ; not entirely even, but with
niches. On the top of it is the Crucifixion of Our Lord, very beautifully exe
cuted. All round it, from the summit to the base, is a sort of carved drapery ;
and in the middle are small circles, containing the images of the Saints and the
Apostles, faced with glass. To the left of the picture of Our Lord is a painting
of St. Sophia, the work of an able and ingenious master. The church is de
picted with its pillars, in the midst of its court ; and under its foundations is a kind
of vault. On the top is the Messiah; and the Holy Ghost is descending on it in
rays of light. Under it is a picture of Hell ; at the mouth of which is the Cashi-
dian, with a large nose, holding in his hand a bow and arrows. There are near
him many Persians, in their turbans and peculiar dresses ; armed with bows anci
arrows, which they are shooting at the holy edifice. There is also a body of
Franks, in their caps and uniforms ; pointing their muskets and cannon against
it, with all the art of war.
Next we ascended to the second floor of the church, by the steps of one of the
outer towers, and found it a very delightful situation, commanding, from every
part, a view of the choir and the tabernacles. It has two recesses ; one with five
cupolas, and a tabernacle in the centre dedicated to St. Nicolas ; the other
also with five, and a second tabernacle in the centre dedicated to St. Deme
trius ; all looking down upon the tabernacles below. As to the rails in front of
these alcoves, they are severally made of one piece of red stone, and extend
from one foot of the arch to the other, being figured with crosses and inscrip
tions, and exactly resembling the balustrades of St. Sophia. Over these two
tabernacles are two cupolas with glazed windows. The whole number of the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 2-31
arches of this wing of the building is thirty, and the cupolas are ten. The two
other tabernacles are near the north door, on the right-hand as you go out of the
church. They have wide arches ; and instead of the Symbolon, they are now
making for them a high cage of iron, adorned with various figures, and painted
with different colours ; as, the portraits of angels and saints, with their faces white
as usual, and their garments shining with gold; crosses, and Greek inscriptions;
flowers of various colours, yellow and red ; and such other things as astonish
the beholder : all this is constructed of thin plates of iron, fastened with bolts.
In one of the tabernacles is a fount of white marble, with its lid or cover of large
dimensions and concave form, ornamented with crosses, and resembling the urn
of St. Elian in Emessa. The wonder is, whence they brought this marble,
and these huge pillars which are outside the church ; for there is no such thing
in this whole country as a marble quarry. It would appear that they conveyed
them in ships from Marmora, which is in the neighbourhood of Constantinople,
by way of the Black Sea, and by ascending the great river Niepros (Dnieper),
which flows into it ; and landed them at this city of Kiov : whence, and from all
the vicinity of which, there is a traffic, by both hauling and sailing vessels, on the
great river just mentioned ; and thence the navigation is continued on the Black
Sea, All the alcoves or cupolas of this church are eighteen in number ; and the
large gilt crosses, which are over the cupolas and balustrades and arches, are
six and thirty. The great cupola or dome is in the centre ; and above it is
another of great beauty and ingenuity, intended merely for ornament, and much
admired. All these domes are covered with shining tin. This is the sum of the
notes and calculations, made at the expense of much labour and vigilance and
inquietude, which we have collected on the description of this noble edifice of
St. Sophia, in the country of the Cossacks ; to which there is none like or
equal, with the exception of its namesake and prototype in the city of Con
stantinople.
Then Kyr Theodosius, the Archimandrite of the Monastery of St. Michael,
which is opposite to this church and near to it, came and solicited the Patriarch
to accompany him in his coach to his apartments in the convent. We went
with him in consequence, as the distance was so very small ; and the Patriarch
alighted from the coach outside the gate, and we entered. The entire building
is of wood, except the magnificent, lofty, and elegant church, which is of
stone and lime, and has a high cupola shining with gold. This church consists
only of one nave. It is lighted all round with glazed windows. The three
churches I have been describing are all of one style of architecture, and of OIK-
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
age. As to the throne of the Chief of the Clergy , it is very magnificent and
beautiful ; and in the front of it, on the left, is the portrait of Theophani, Patri
arch of Jerusalem, in his cap and cassock, and holding a cross. The large
Tabernacle resembles that of St. Sophia,, and of the Convent of Petcherske *, and
lias three large windows ; and, in like manner, it is painted in the centre with the
portrait of Our Lady, standing upright in her gold ornaments, and having both her
hands raised and open. Next to her is Our Lord, handing to his Disciples, on both
sides, the divine bread and blood. Below them are the portraits of Chief Priests,
in rows, and all with inscriptions. On the right of this tabernacle is a second, with
a lofty cupola : and on the left is a third. This holy church has also three doors :
the largest is to the west ; the other two give admission to the two choirs. At the
back of the left choir is a handsome tabernacle, facing your left-hand as you enter.
It has an iron folding-door reaching from the top to the bottom, and beautifully
divided into compartments,, which are diversified with painted flowers and the
figures of angels and saints, in the manner we described of St. Sophia. Within
it is a handsome sarcophagus, containing the body of St. Barbara of Baalbec.
So also on the right, as you enter the church, is another tabernacle in the western
wing : and without the angle is a sixth. The floor of the church is all of large
red tile. Near to this convent, and indeed contiguous, is one of Nuns.
I should have mentioned, that the image of St. Michael is very magnificent
and venerable ; all its armour, its breast-plate, bracelets, visor and helmet, being
of pure silver, coloured, and with the bosses gilt; the work of an ingenious
master.
After we had assisted at mass here, and banquetted, we went to visit the Cata
combs of the Monastery, and the tower between the cupolas above the gate ; and
then returned to St. Sophia.
The walls and trenches of the fort pass close by the gates of this convent,
and have been lately constructed by the Emperor Alexius, whom God preserve !
These walls, which are of wood, and are flanked by deep moats, have towers
soaring above them of great strength, and exhibit in their fabric a happy ingenuity,
resembling that of the Franks. In their own country of Muscovy we saw no
such contrivances as have been produced in the plan of giving strength and im
pregnability to these fortifications. For the whole circuit of the moat they have
made large pieces of timber into the shape of an axle-tree of a wheel, of great
length ; and have studded them with short stakes sharpened off in the form of
* This I find is the true name of the convent, which in this work has been hitherto called Yahariska ;
such appearing to be the obvious way of deciphering
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
spears and daggers, which stick out from the beam on its four sides, in the shape
f a cross, resembling the windlass of the wells in our country. These beams
they have set in two rows, at the height and half of a man as he stretches his
arms upwards from the ground; so that the enemy, when he assaults them
finds no way to pass, either above or below; and should he lay hold to hano- by
the spikes in the higher beam, it turns round with him ; and he falls on the spikes
i the beam below, which enter his flesh and limbs, and point through his body
to the grave. The bridges reaching to the gates of these towns and castles are
drawn and lifted up by chains ; and the ground about the entrance is entirely
hollowed mto caves and cellars for the stowage of vast quantities of gunpowder
Over the highest part of the gate is a large bell ; which, when any thing happen,
they rmg, to acquaint and alarm the garrison ; and this kind of bell is found in'
the forts of Muscovy. In this fort are many large guns, planted one above
; and here reside two Voivodas, Lieutenants of the Emperor. The troops
e garrison and neighbourhood amount to sixty thousand ; and some of them
1 on their two legs, by the river-side, carrying their muskets, durin» the
whole day, to be succeeded by others for the night.
As far as this spot formerly reached the ancient City of Kiov ; which on its
Conquest by the enemy, after a long war, was finally laid in ruins; and iis habi-
tations were removed to the low grounds in the valley, on the banks of the o-reat
nver Niepros. The way to it is by the entrance of one gate of the castle,°and
out through the other; after which you descend by a long narrow passage ex-
ceedmgly rough, and of hardly sufficient width for a horse and a carriage to' the
modern town: for the fort, which they have now recently constructed^' on the
the lull, whence you look down over the whole city belowf.
t I, is a matter of ,he most agreeable curiosity to compare v,i,h the account of the City of Kiov ,
hafbeen f TIT *™ ">' "* ^^ """ wbfch «™* * fa" ^ viz since 4
" ri:^ibiriaericai G-a-- Dr- H:*L: - - ^ — — -
the middle of the ninth cen y, a, wh ch Ume i r d
The Slavonian,, tired of the ,rient,l T t "> "" n°"Ce as W»"g»'g «« *e Khazurs.
a reaue" which ™ instant,, ™ 'td Zt , r "' 7? -^ ^^ *""' ^"^"A'
rate state • -md in the expulsion of thc.r oppressors, they formed a sepa-
"' "
"g»
*""'
Jrofessor Knur conier-turnc tW n:*™n
nan, on whose authority that statement is given,
wrote
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
On this day one of the Voivodas came and paid his respects to our Lord the
Patriarch, by kneeling down before him, and wishing him health.
To return to our description. At present, all the remains of the ancient city
are the Church of St. Sophia and this convent, with their appurtenances ; and
they have built walls round them, and fortified them, since the destruction of
the rest : for all the towns in these countries are built of wood ; and when they
wrote quadraginta, and not quadritigentfc. In consequence of the devastations to which it has been
repeatedly subject from the Plague, the Tatars, and other hostile visitors, Kief has lost much of its ancient
li-raiideur, although it still continues to be one of the most remarkable places in the empire. Its present
population is about 20,000.
" The eastern approach to Kief presents a view in a high degree picturesque and striking. Direct
in front, on the lofty banks of the Borysthenes, stands the far-famed Petcherskoi Monastery, the churches
and gilded spires of which reflect with da/xling splendour the rays of the sun ; the bold and commanding
fortress and bastions, w ith which it is surrounded, convey the idea of strength and security ; the Cathedral
of Saint Sophia, and other churches, occupying elevated situations in the ' Old Town/ some of which
are from the earliest periods of the Russian Church, create in the mind a certain kind of rcligio loci;
while at a distance to the right, close to the water's edge, stretches Podole, or the ' Town in the Vale ;'
the busy scene of mercantile enterprise. The varied surface of the ground too, now rising into pointed
heights, now indented by deep ravines, and in many parts covered with gardens and extended patches
of copse, greatly tends to heighten the interest of the perspective.
" The town itself is divided into three parts : the southern takes its name from the Monastery of
Petchersk, and, besides the fortress and convent, contains another celebrated monastery, dedicated to
Saint Nicholas, and six churches, some of which stand near the margin of the river ; where is also a
number of houses, chiefly occupied by the lower classes of inhabitants. Near to the fortress is a bazar;
behind which the houses assume the appearance of a regular town, having one principal street, with
several cross-streets terminating to the west in a deep gulley, the sides and brink of which are princi
pally inhabited by Jews. Beyond this, in a northerly direction, is a subdivision, containing the houses
of the Governor and other persons of distinction, delightfully shaded by lofty trees, some of which
appear to be of great age.
" In this part of the town is a tolerably good inn, where we took up our abode : and after waiting
upon the Metropolitan Serapion, the Governor, and several of the other inhabitants, with whom we
made arrangements relative to the object of our journey, we repaired to the monastery, in order to view
a place equally interesting to the historian, as the residence of Nestor, the invaluable annalist of Russia,
and to the members of the Greek Church, as the repository of those relics and monuments which have
been held in high religious veneration during many successive centuries. Having entered the gate of
the fortress, which consists of regular ramparts and bastions, and is classed in the first rank of Russian
fortifications, we passed the barracks and arsenal ; and had we not been previously apprised of the exist
ence of the monastery, we should not have expected to meet with a reclusion in the midst of so much
military apparatus and noise. As we advanced, however, we soon came within sight of a magnificent
gate, ornamented with full-length representations of Anthony and Theodosius, the first two Abbots of
the monastery, and other objects of popular veneration, before which a crowd of pilgrims were bowing
and crossing themselves, according to the usual forms. We here gained admittance at a small wicket ;
;>.nd soon found, from the solitude and sombre appearance of every surrounding object, that we were
now within the precincts of what the Russians call the ' Laureate Cloister.' Passing along a fine
alley, on either side of which are the cells of the monks, we arrived at the cathedral dedicated to the
' Ascension
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. -^Ij
take fire,, they burn away till not a vestige of them is left, with the exception of
some extraordinary stone edifice.
It may he remarked, that the Sheikh, or senior magistrate of the towns and
villages in this country,, is called Istarosta.
We were informed, that beginning with the Convent of Petcherske and its
' Ascension of the Virgin +,' the exterior of which is greatly calculated to operate on the feeling's of the
spectator, and produce sensations of a very solemn and contemplative nature. It is erected in a style
of grand architectural elegance, and many parts of the walls are decorated with beautiful representations
of the most interesting scenes of Scripture History. Its seven cupolated turrets are richly gilt; and,
together with the belfry, which stands at some distance, and is upwards of 300 feet in height, greatly
add to the magnificent appearance of the place.
" Towards the usual hour of Vespers, the court of the monastery began to fill with worshippers, who
rushed forward with great eagerness, as the sound of the evening bell, and the opening of the grand
western door of the cathedral, announced the commencement of the service. We now proceeded from
the house of the Prior, by whom we had been courteously entertained, to survey the interior of the
church, which we found indescribably splendid : the whole of the walls seemed covered with pictures
of martyrs and saints, encased in richly gilded or silver-covered frames ; but the most prominent of all
was one of the Virgin, above the doors which open into the ' Holy of Holies,' before \\hich burned an
immense profusion of lights, whose effect, superadded to that produced by the tapers burning before the
different shrines, was but just sufficient to light up to our view the highly ornamented ceiling of the
edifice.
" As we were contemplating this curious assemblage of human inventions, our notice was attracted
by one of the most unearthly sounds we ever recollected to have heard ; which, on inquiry, we ascer
tained to proceed from a female pilgrim, who had been sei/ed with convulsions, but was regarded by
the multitude as a demoniac. On coming out of the church, we found she had been carried out, and
laid on the north side of the vestibule, precisely in the slatio dfemoniacorum, as represented by Ludolf.
in the Ichnogr aphid Ecdesiec Grcccw, at p. 371 of his Commentary. At the south side of the church is
a large Hospitium, or place of entertainment for the pilgrims who resort hither for puposes of devotion -.
and close by wre \isited one of the cells which had recently been converted into a depository for the
sale and distribution of the Holy Scriptures. Besides the cathedral, there are three other churches
attached to the monastery, but none of them exhibiting any thing remarkable.
" The following morning, at eight o'clock, we again visited this place, according to appointment, in
order to make the tour of the Catacombs, or the extensive domains of the dead, consisting of subter
ranean labyrinths of great extent, which are excavated in the precipitous declivity of the hill forming
the bank of the river. These remarkable dormitories are divided into two classes — the nearer, and the
more remote ; the distance being reckoned from the principal church within the precincts of the
monastery.
t Dr. Henderson appears to have been too slightly acquainted with the Catholic Ritual to avoid a gross mistake
here. He should have written the "Assumption of the Virgin," not the "Ascension." The Arabic expression,
so frequently used by the Archdeacon Paul, as a member of the Syrian Catholic Church, for this mystery, is
i'jJwjJ —.\JJ "The Lamentation" or "Wake of Our Lady;" during the performance of which ceremony, by the
Apostles and other Disciples of Christ, the Virgin's corpse is believed to have been raised from her couch to heaven,
by the ministration of Angels, before their astonished eyes. In the Greek it is styled 'H KtuVTjtm rfjs 060T««-ov,
" The Sleep (or Trance) of the Mother of God."
•28() TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
appendages, and St. Sophia and the churches which are in ruins around it, and
taking in the churches of stone which still remain in ruins in the castle, and the
buildings as far as Kiov with their inclosures, you may reckon about one
hundred churches and monasteries.
On Tuesday, the third of the month Tamoz, we took leave of the Metropolitan,
monastery, in the gallery to the south of which the two churches are situated, whence the descent
into 'the nether parts of the earth ' is effected. Following a young; monk, who had been selected to
conduct us, and who shewed every disposition to gratify our curiosity, we made our egress from the
convent by a small wicket-gate in the massy stone \\all by which it is surrounded; and, proceeding
down a small steep lane paved with stones, we came to a covered walk, or gallery of wood, about
500 feet in length, which led us to a magnificent chapel, with three gilded turrets, dedicated to ' The
Elevation of the Holy Cross,' and designed to receive the devotions of those who descend into the
gloomy abodes below. While our guide and the servants were lighting the candles which were to
render in some measure visible to us the darkness of the caverns, we viewed a large painting on the
wall of the vestibule, representing a motley group of good and evil spirits, abiding the departure of the
dying, in order to convey their souls to the regions either of felicity or of woe. The latter were depicted
in the midst of vivid flames ; and the arch-fiend, ha\ing been rendered more conspicuous than any of
the other figures composing the scene, a boy, who was standing by, infuriated with rage, ran up and
gave him some hard blows with the sharp leathern front of his cap. From the battered appearance of
the head, and that of some of the fiends that were near him, it appeared that this was not a solitary
instance of this kind of treatment.— Would that men (adds Dr. Henderson) were equally enraged at the
cloven foot, when presented in the multiform shape of temptation !
" Our lights being provided, we descended into the passage leading to the Catacombs, known by the
name of St. Anthony's, the founder of the monastery, whose relics are preserved in a cubitory at the
extremity of the labyrinth. This passage is about six feet in height, but so extremely narrow that it is
with difficulty two persons can pass each other. Like all the other apertures and subterraneous galleries
to which it leads, it is dugout of the hill; which seems to consist of a mixture of sand and clay, possess
ing a considerable degree of adhesion, but too soft to be entitled to the character of stone. The sides
and roof are, for the most part, black from the smoke of the torches which are incessantly conveyed
through the passage ; and, where there is any turn or winding in it, the projecting angle is partly
smoothed and worn away by the friction occasioned by the numerous companies of visitors.
"We had not proceeded far, when we came to a niche on the right side of the passage, containing a
coffin without the lid, in which lay the mummied body of one of the saints, wrapped in a silken shroud,
with one of the stiffened hands placed in such a position as easily to receive the kisses of those who visit
the cemetery for the purposes of devotion. This token of respect was paid by our guide, not only to
this relic, but to all we passed; the number of which, in this dormitory, amounts to eighty-two. After
advancing to the distance of about twenty yards, in a north-westerly direction, we turned round suddenly
to the east, by a somewhat circuitous passage, and then proceeded again towards the north; observing,
as we passed, the numerous niches on both sides, containing bodies or parts of the bodies of those who
have acquired renown by the degree of austerity and mortification to which they attained in reducing
to practice the rules of ascetic discipline. Resides these niches, we came every now and then to separate
dormitories, in ' the sides of the pit;' little chambers having been dug in the sand, and, after the
bodies had been deposited in them, again closed up by a thin wall parallel with the side of the gallery,
in which, about four feet from the ground, a small glass window is inserted, discovering, on a candle
being held to it, the funeral attire of its unghostly inhabitant. In one of these little chambers we were
shewn
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 237
and descended to the city of Kiov, after the Metropolitan had sent word to
them first, and they had prepared for us a large apartment. To precede us, he
despatched a body of Grandees and Archons, armed, and on horseback, as usual ;
and on our descent we were met by a great number of Priests and Deacons, in
their robes, and with banners and torches, who conducted us into a magnificent
shewn the remains of a vigorous ascetic of the name of John, who, as the leg-end goes, constructed
his own dormitory, and, after building- himself in by a wall with a small window, as above described,
he interred himself up to the waist, and in this posture performed his devotions, till death left him
in possession of the grave he had made. A figure representing him is visible through the small
aperture ; but whether his mummy, or merely his effigy, we could not determine. Another of these
sepulchres is said to contain the relics of the twelve Friars who first addicted themselves to the severities
of the monastic life in this place, one of the bones of the Protomartyr Stephen, and some of the Children
of Bethlehem murdered by order of King Herod !
' After penetrating to the northern extremity of this ' region and shadow of death,' we came to the
sepulchre of Nestor, the celebrated Father of Russian history ; who flourished in the Petcherskoi Mona
stery from about the middle to the end of the eleventh century, and was contemporary with Ari Frode,
the first Icelandic historiographer. This Monk appears to have been gifted with a large share of natural
understanding; and, to judge from the style of his writings, he must have been familiar with the
Scriptures ; for he not only quotes them frequently, but seems to have adopted their narrative style as
the model of his own compositions. His intercourse with the reigning family, his perusal of the
Byzantine Historians, the opportunities he enjoyed of collecting the current traditionary accounts from
the mouth of his countrymen, and the numerous historical monuments which Kief and its immediate
vicinity presented to his view, all furnished advantages of which he happily availed himself; and has
thereby transmitted to us the knowledge of important historical facts, connected with the ancient history
of Russia, which must otherwise have perished with the lapse of time. Of his Annals, a truly critical
edition, in the original Slavonic, accompanied with various readings, a German translation, and valuable
historical commentaries, was published by Professor Schluzer, of Gottingen, lSO:2-9.
" From the dormitory of Nestor, the dreary avenue turned round, by a gradual descent, tow ards the
Boryxthenes; and after leading us past a number of dead bodies, brought us to two subterraneous
chapels. The first, only at a short distance from the river, is dedicated to Anthony, who here lie*
enshrined in a coffin covered with silver ; and the other, situated nearer to the entrance, is dedicated to
' The Purification of the Virgin.'* Both are richly ornamented ; and are used for the performance of
mass, on such days in the Calendar as are appropriated to these festivals.
"We now returned to the spot whence we had descended; and were glad to exchange the confined air
and melancholy gloom of this sepulchral labyrinth for the fresh breeze ascending from the river, and
the exhilarating prospect supplied by the surrounding scenery.
" At a short distance to the south are situated the 'farther' Catacombs, or those of Theodosius ; but
they are neither so sinuous, nor so extensive, as the former ; nor is the celebrity of the saints, whose
relics they contain, equal to that of those entombed in the Caverns of Anthony. Besides the chapel and
tomb of the founder, we visited two chapels dedicated to the Virgin, and ' The Elevation of the
Cross;'
* The contradiction involved in the terms of this festive title-as used by the Roman-Catholic Church, from which
Dr. Henderson lias erroneously taken it, when he should have applied himself to the Greek-is avoided in the Arabic
denomination of the same festival, which is J^:JJ *J,^J! Jy^ « The Entrance Of Our Lady into the Temple."
Il
-238 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
stone church in the centre of the market-place, with five cupolas in the shape of
a cross, and dedicated by the title of " The Assumption of Our Lady." Then
they walked before us to a large hotel, where we alighted.
In this district the Grandees are numerous, and their trains are great : and
these Grandees of Kiov carry in their hands staves of the bamboo-cane, of
Cross;' but found nothing1 remarkable, after what we had seen in the others. The number of bodies,
or parts of bodies, contained in the latter catacombs, and which are venerated as relics possessed of
wonder-working powers, amounts to forty-five.
" Our visit to these ' dark places/ in ' the nether parts of the earth,' where we literally were ' among
those that be dead of old,' tended, in no small degree, to furnish us with lively recollections of those
passages of Scripture which represent the grave as a pit, or cavern, into which a descent is necessary,
Psalm \\viii. 1. cxliii. 7. Prov. i. 12; where there are deep recesses, containing- dormitories, or separate
burying-places, Isaiah xiv. 15. Ezek. x\\ii. 23 : so that each dead body may be said to 'lie in its oun
house,' Isaiah xiv. 15; and "rest in its own bed," chap. Ivii. 2. The idea also of a vast subterraneous
abode necessarily presented itself to our minds— an idea frequently to be met with in the Sacred and
other Oriental writing's. Hence Solomon, when treating- of the end of man's mortal existence, calls the
grave his ' long- home,' Eccles. xii. 5 ; to which, as the family residence, descendants are said to
' g-o' or ' be gathered' at death, Gen. xv. 15. 2 Kings xxii. 20. And on one of the ancient Phoenician
Inscriptions found on the Island of Malta, the same idea of the grave, as a place of residence, is evidently
conveyed, Db^nSlimap; which, if properly divided, is cb^ rQ Tin "Op 'The chamber of the
long abode — the grave.'
" The origin of the Catacombs of Kief is to be traced to the introduction of the ascetic life into Russia.
Uilarion, Presbyter of Berestof, a learned and devout man, abandoning his church, and the intercourse
of the world, dug a cell two fathoms in depth, in a sequestered and woody part of the hill, close to the
spot where the monastery now stands ; where he imposed upon himself numerous acts of mortification,
till ('ailed by laroslav to be the Metropolitan of Russia. The cell, however, wras soon re-occupied by a
native of Liubetch; who, after performing a pilgrimage to Mount Athos, where he received the tonsure,
and assuming the name of Antonius, endeavoured to settle in some monastery ; but not finding any
sufficiently strict in its rules of discipline, he repaired to the cave of Uilarion. Here he led a most
retired and austere life, addicting himself to prayer and fasting ; and in a short time acquired such
reputation for sanctity, that immense crowds of devotees, among whom the Grand Duke Iziaslav himself,
came to his cell, in order to obtain his blessing. Other ascetics now associated themselves with him,
and enlarged the subterraneous reclusion ; a regular monastery was at length formed ; churches and
chapels wrere erected for the accommodation of those who visited the place; and, in the course of time,
after miraculous powers were ascribed to the relics of the original founders and others who had
rendered themselves famous for the rigour of their discipline, the spot obtained that celebrity which it
still retains in the present day. What Jerusalem was to the Israelites, Kief is to the Russians; and the
veneration in which the Grand Cathedral of the Petcherskoi Monastery, with its surrounding ' Holy
Places' is held, is, at least, equal to that paid to the Temple on Mount Zion. On this account, it is the
great resort of pilgrims from all parts of the Empire, not even excepting Kamstchatka, and other distant
regions of Siberia ; who, as they proceed hither, collect money from those who are not able to come in
person, with which they purchase candles to be placed before the images of the saints. The average
number of those who annually perform this pilgrimage is estimated at 50,000.
''The second or middle division of Kief consists of the ' Old Town,' which is separated from that
already
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. •£$!)
considerable thickness,, and others of different kinds ; as do also the inferior
Lords and rich men.
And now they began to bring us mead and beer, in large barrels, drawn in
carts ; and an abundance of strong spirits. Bread they furnished us in loads : and
fish in quintals, from the plentiful cheapness of it among them ; and its immense
already described by a deep ravine, intersecting the hills on which they are situated. It forms the site
of the ancient Slavonic Pantheon, where Perun, Horsa, Ludo, Voloxa, Mokosha, Kupala, and other
objects of idolatrous worship, had altars erected for the celebration of their respective rites, ft is sur
rounded by immense earthen walls ; and contains, within a small compass, not fewer than five churches,
of which the principal is the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, built by laroslav, in the year 1037, on the spot
where he had chained a signal victory over the Petchenegi. In the magnitude and grandeur of its
structure it exceeds the Petcherskoi Cathedral ; and is remarkable for a colossal mosaic representation
of the Lord's Supper, according- to the mode of its administration in the Eastern Church, together with
other representations on a grand scale. The whole of the walls and ceiling was covered with the same
exquisite workmanship, interspersed with Greek Inscriptions ; but being in many parts richly gilt, many
of these monuments of ancient art were destroyed by the Tatars under Batu Khan, by whom the town
was taken and pillaged, in the year 1240. This church contains also the tomb of its founder ; which is
built of white marble, and measures about seven feet in length by three in breadth, and three and a
half in height.
"• Close to the Cathedral is the residence of the Metropolitan; a sombre building, shaded by venerable
trees, and exhibiting, in the interior, the most striking vestiges of ancient art. On the identical spot
where Perun, the Jupiter of Russia, had a fane consecrated to his worship, stands the Church of Saint
Basil, built by Vladimir, on the introduction of Christianity into the Empire ; and near the northern
termination of the elevated ground forming the site of the town is part of another church, erected by
the same prince, in the year 996, and called Denaf.in/iaia, or the Tithe Church, from the circumstance
that he not only endowed it with a tenth part of his own private property, but also with a tenth of the
public revenues. In the cemetery belonging to this church were discovered, by the Metropolitan Peter,
in the year 1636, two marble coffins ; which, according to the inscriptions upon them, contained the
bones of Vladimir, and his spouse, the Greek Princess Ann. The scull of this monarch was taken the
same year, and deposited in the Petcherskoi Cathedral, where it is still preserved.
" We next visited the Church of Saint Andrew, which is built at a short distance from that just men
tioned ; and being situated on a projecting point of the hill, commands one of the most extensive pro
spects of any place about Kief. It owes its name to a tradition that the Apostle Andrew, in the course
of his Missionary excursions among the Scythians, planted the Cross on this hill, and predicted, that, at
a future period, it would become the site of a city, and of numerous churches dedicated to the honour
of his Divine Master.
" Almost directly below this church, where the high bank of the river gives way to a narrow plain,
stands Podolc, ' the Low Town, 'or ' the Town of the Vale,' which is chiefly inhabited by merchants; but
is also celebrated for its magnificent Academy, founded, in 1631, by the Metropolitan Peter Mohila, in
which upwards of twelve hundred students are taught the sciences, according to the forms of the old
German Universities. It is built of stone ; stands close to the Friars' Monastery, the Archimandrite of
which is Rector of the Institution ; and is provided with an excellent library and hospital. This division
of Kiff, consisting of streets and buildings laid down according to a regular plan, forms a perfect con
trast to the other parts of the town, and, abounding in large and fruitful gardens, presents a very
agreeable perspective to the view.
•2K) TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
variety of shape and colour astonished us : for, as we before mentioned,, the great
River Niepros is near them, and many ships sail out of it. As to the quality of
the vessels which navigate this river, they are generally large. In measuring
some of them, we found the length of their single timbers to be about one hun
dred and fifty spans ; and there are many hollowed out of one huge piece of
wood, of which the length is ten cubits. On this river they pass to the Black Sea.
The houses in this country are grand and lofty, and present walls of polished
wood, both inside and out. Attached to each mansion is a seraglio-garden, of
great extent, planted with fruit-trees of all the kinds that grow here : among
which are large mulberry-trees of the common sort (j^ eulul-J'j), and that kind
originary of Hazzaz in the territory of Aleppo, both white and red, in thousands
innumerable ; but they do not care to eat mulberries. There is also the walnut-
tree ; and grape-vines in these gardens are abundant. Between their excellent
cucumber-beds they sow a great deal of the saffron-flower, and of rue, and
cloves of many colours. But from other countries is brought hither by the
merchants a supply of oil, and olives, and almonds, and rice, and raisins, and
figs, and tobacco. All these, with Morocco leather, and saffron, and cotton
wool, and manufactured silks of Persia, and red silk in the thread, are imported in
great quantities from Turkey, a distance of forty days' journey ; but they are
exceeding dear. The women who are employed, in the handsome stalls and
admirable shops, in selling these articles, and every thing else that is wanted of
the silk manufacture,, and of sables, £c., are smartly drest, in their way: but no
one looks on them with an eye of turpitude.
We were informed, that in this country of the Cossacks, whenever they find
a man and woman in adultery, they immediately gather round them, and strip
them, and set them as a mark for their guns. This is an invariable law with
them ; and no one ever escapes its infliction.
In this city are found many excellent Cossack painters, skilful masters of their
art, who have many ingenious inventions for taking exact portraits of the human
face ; and are very clever at depicting the torments of Our Lord, in their several
stages, as we shall hereafter have occasion more particularly to mention. And
what grief is in the heart of every Pole, both great and small, and what regret,
for the loss of this city of Kiov! which was formerly under their Cral, and was his
chief residence ; and the whole city was inhabited by their Grandees, to whom
and to the rich Jews, all these handsome palaces and magnificent houses and
gardens belonged.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The Poles had here two large stone churches, with lofty porticoes on pillars;
one of them ancient, the other new, and handsomely decorated with all the beau
ties of architecture ; but now left in an unfinished state, to weep for the loss of
its worshippers, whom time and fate have dissipated. The beautiful paintings,
begun from the very top of the ceiling, which are done in lime resembling a paste,
and the historical drawings sketched by masterly artists, are also unfinished and
abandoned to decay; and the building is become a receptacle for filth, and a
refuge for the brute species ; propped on its pillars as the support of its decrepi
tude, and covered with the dark grey verdure of thickening moss.
There used to be in these two churches, and in the streets of the town sur
rounding them, some thousands of Jesuit Priests ; and when Akhmil (Chmiel-
niski) began to make his conquests of these countries, their associates in the
land were speedily removed, either by the sword or distress ; except a few who
escaped to this place, saying, " Here, by the mercy of God, we are safe ! or
if not, our only refuge is in Him !" — for the situation is difficult both to ascend
and to surround, and on all sides of it are strong castles and steep mountains.
But Akhmil and his Cossacks reached them, nevertheless ; and they were bound
together by the cords of their girdles, and thrown into the river Niepros (Dnieper)
to be drowned, after they had been made to suffer the direst torments : after
wards, their bodies were exposed to be devoured by the dogs.
To return: — On the eve of Thursday, we attended Prayers in a large church,
with three tabernacles ; one dedicated to the Glorious Passover ; another to the
Saints Peter and Paul; and the third to Eustathius the Martyr, whose portrait
is on the door of his chapel. He is descending from his horse; and the stag
and Christ are in the corners of the picture, the latter speaking to him. In
each of the churches in this city of Kiov, without exception, there is always a
painting of the execrable convention held against Our Lord. The Jews are
seated on chairs, holding in their hands the written depositions of the witnesses,
and what Nicodemus wrote : and Pilate is also sitting in a chair, and washing
his hands, at the same time that his wife is whispering in his ear. Our Lord
is below, naked and bound ; and Caiaphas, without a beard, and drest in a kind
of Armenian robe, with a corresponding head-dress, is standing on his legs above
them, and rending his garments.
On Friday we heard mass in a large convent, called in their language Si
las/mi, or the Monastery of the Three Brother Kings who built it. It is dedicated
to the " Divine Immersion," and has an Abbot and Monks. Before its gate are
wooden pillars, carved and fluted in an admirable manner ; and above is the
21>2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
place for the clock. — In Kiov, the clock is in the great belfry.— Within the gate
is a handsome church with cupolas and glazed windows, dedicated to The Annun
ciation. But the principal church has also galleries round it, and has three
doors with three cupolas : it is very spacious and lofty, and has an Ambelon,
with steps to ascend it : and in the right-hand choir is a handsome chair for
the Chief of the Priests, with verses of inscription at the back. Its cupolas are
very large and magnificent.
After we had gone forth from the mass, they conducted us to the place of
the banquet ; which is built on a single arch of stone and mortar, with a long
door in front, the side-posts of which are of marble. In it were two tables ;
and it has a number of glazed windows. At the higher part of the room is
the screen of a chapel, entirely covered with paintings. On the lowest com
partment of the screen is the figure of Our Lord, who is fasting on the moun
tain : and Satan is standing before him, tempting him, with three stones in his
hands, and saying, " If thou art the Son of God, say to these stones that they
become bread." The second picture is, where in another place Christ says to
him, " Get thee behind me, Satan." The third is, Our Lord dismounting from his
beast, and lighting on the person who had fallen among robbers, and pouring
into his wounds oil and wine. The fourth represents Our Lord carrying the
lost lamb on his shoulders; the rest of the flock appearing at a distance, on the
to]> of the hill, among the trees. Fifthly, on the arch of the said tabernacle are
eight paintings : the first is the figure of Our Lord, and the two soldiers beating
him on the head with a reed, whilst another presents him with a green reed
covered with leaves and flowers. Above this is the second painting, in which
Our Lord is bound, and the two soldiers are leading him; one of them dressed
entirely as a soldier, the other having a large white shawl rolled upon his head.
On the highest part of the arch is the third, representing Our Lord naked and
wounded, and sitting on a stool ; and a vine issues from his belly, and arbours
on his head ; and there is hanging down between his hands a bunch of grapes,
which he presses into a cup, according to his blessed word in the Gospel,
'' I will drink it new in the kingdom of my Father." Under this is the fourth
painting of Our Lord, bound to a pillar ; and two persons are beating him with a
ferula studded with iron, and a broom of thorns. Under it is the fifth picture,
of Pilate, with a large white turban rolled on his head, like a Holla's, sitting
in judgment on Our Lord, who stands before him; and around him are the
soldiers. On the front of the arch is the sixth picture of Our Lord, carrying
his cross, and fainting to the ground : then they load the cross on Simon the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 243
Cyrenean; and the soldiers are round about Christ; and Mary, other than his
parent, is wiping off his sweat with a handkerchief. On the top is the seventh :
it is Our Lord crucified with the thieves ; and the Virgin is fainting, and Salome
and Mary are raising her. On the lowest part of the arch, on the left, is the
eighth painting of Our Lord, where they are binding him preparatorily to his
crucifixion, and Pilate is washing his hands ; and on the head of the latter is
the identical white turban as before mentioned : for the painter has drawn the
Crucifixion on the highest front of the arch, that a person may see it as he
enters; and on the right side they are going up with Our Lord carrying his
cross to the top ; on the left, they are also ascending with him, to judge him in
the court. In like manner is the whole of the bancmetting-room covered with
paintings.
On Sunday, the eighth after Pentecost, Our Lord the Patriarch performed mass
in the Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, at the proposal of the people of
the town; and there was gathered together a great congregation: and they
piled the holy table with all kinds of silver vessels, and filled them with sweet
herbs and flowers. Then he distributed the B^or^ *, or bread, to all the persons
present in the Church, even to the boys and girls. We remarked, that the
daughters of the Grandees of Kiovf place round the hair of their heads a fillet
of black velvet, laced with gold, and set with pearls and stones, resembling a
crown, and of the value of two hundred pieces of gold, more or less : but the
poor girls make for themselves tiaras of flowers of the various colours.
On the evening of this Vigil fell also the festival with them of Saint Anthonius
the Younger, the glory of the country of the Cossacks, who is interred, together
with his companion Theodosius, in the cave which is in the Convent of
Petcherske, founded by them. And from the afternoon of this Vigil, till the
second Monday, the tenth of the month Tamoz, at noon, they disturbed this
lower world with their much ringing of the whole of their bells ; and during
this night they slept not at all, from the multiplicity of their Matins which
they prayed, and the continued noise of the bells which they tolled.
* This word, which is certainly not Arabic, but may be Greek, if one may judge from its form.
1 have given in the Greek character; though the Baron De Sacy is inclined to think it of German origin.
" Je me tiens pour assure que ce qui est designe sous le nom de brote, mot dont 1'origine m'est tout-a-
fait inconnue, a moins que ce ne soit 1'alleman brod, est la meme chose que ce qu'on nomme en grec
avTutapw, et qui repond ;\ notre pain beni. — Journal dcs Savans, Dec. 1831. 743.
t The Archdeacon has constantly written the name of this town uJ^. In the modern Russian
maps, it is KIEBL.
•2-44 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. II.
BROBARL—HOKHOLA.—YADLOKA.—BASANL—BAKOML—BRILMELOKA.
DURING this same night, and afterwards, there came on a heavy rain, and a
great inundation : and this was followed by a severe frost and thick fogs, till we
were at the tenth of the month Canon the First; when we went forth from the
city of Kiov, on the said day, being Monday, and came to the bank of the
Brobari *, a river well known, and celebrated to the utmost extent of this
country ; which we crossed in a large boat — ourselves, our carriages, and our
horses, all at once. We were about two hours on our passage; for this river
is larger than the Danube : and when we arrived at length, and landed on the
other bank, we saw on our right the holy monasteries, and the churches, which
are on the top of the mountain ; viz. the Convent of Saint Michael, the Convent
of Saint Nicolas, and the Convent of Petcherske, with the churches around it ;
and the other convent built here by Vasili Beg of Moldavia ; and also the cells
of the Anchorites in the caves of the mountain; one after another. Then we
proceeded two great miles, along narrow roads, and by many pools of water,
over deep sands, and through an immense forest all of fir-trees resembling the
cypress ; and came in the evening to a small town called Brobari, which has a
handsome church dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, and also cloisters and
Monks belonging to the Convent of Petcherske, being a dependency of that
foundation.
On the Thursday we departed hence; and having travelled two great miles,
* This must bo a mistake for Dnieper. This magnificent ri\er (the- Borysthenes and Danapris of
the Ancients), which has justly acquired a high degree of celebrity in Greek and Slavonic geography,
takes its rise near the small village Gorodki, in the district of Bielsk, in the Government of Smolensk:
and running in a southerly and south-easterly direction, till it reaches Tekaterinoslav, it turns towards
the south-west, and falls into the Black Sea between the fortresses of Ofc/iakof and Kinburn, after
having formed the Linia/i, or large estuary on the north side of the Dromon of Achilles. Its whole
length is estimated at fifteen hundred versts. Owing to the sand, clay, and chalk, which compose its
banks, its waters are whitish, and of a hard quality ; but abound in carp, sturgeon, pike, and other
kinds of fish, affording a plentiful supply to those who live in the vicinity. It is considered as
navigable as far as Smohwsk ; but its passage is greatly obstructed, partly by moveable sands, and
partly by cataracts, to the number of thirteen, within the distance of sixty versts, which can only be
passed during a few weeks in the spring, when the flood-water in a great measure destroys the falls. —
During the summer, the passage across the Dnieper is effected by means of a floating-bridge ; but as it
was yet too early for its re-establishment, we had to cross in a ferry-boat, and landed a little below the
Peteherskoi Monastery. — See DR. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia, p. 17-1.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 245
we came to a large market town, with fortifications and a castle, surrounded by
a double moat and running water, called Ilokhola. Here are two churches ;
one by the title of The Manifestation, or Epiphany ; the other dedicated to The
Birth of Our Lady : also a church belonging to the Poles, which they had left
unfinished. This our Lord the Patriarch commanded the Cossacks to purify
with aspersion ; and having finished it, to use it for prayer : and he named it
after Saint George the Martyr. Then we arose from this place, and proceeded
another mile, and came to a village, containing a church, called llosano. Near
it is an immense lake, and large mills and workshops, used in the manufacture
of their woollen cloths.
Then we proceeded another half mile ; and came to a small market-town,
containing a beautiful castle, called Yadlo/id. It has a handsome church, dedi
cated by the title of The Birth of Our Lady. Here we slept.
On the morning of Wednesday, we arose; and advancing three miles, came
to a large market-town, with fortifications, and three castles with three moats,
one within the other, named Basani. In the centre of the place is the church,
surmounted with cupolas, and dedicated to The Birth of Our Lady. Its Icono-
stasis is minutely painted, and pretty ; the ground being azure mixed with gold,
resembling brocade. In front of it is a new church, built and abandoned by
the Poles : and in the third castle is a magnificent palace, of lofty dimensions
and exquisite workmanship, also deserted.
From this place we arose ; and having proceeded another mile, came to
another market-town in ruins, surrounded by three lines of fortification and
flanked by a lake, named Bakomi. Its inhabitants were few, in consequence
of the Plague. This town is very large, and resembles the ruins of Vasilikov.
A most destructive plague fell upon it, and annihilated its inhabitants ; and it
is now in ruins, with but few to dwell in its precincts, and those poor to an
extreme. Within the second line is the church, dedicated to The Birth of Our
Lady. As to its pictures; on the left side is the portrait of the dead body
of Our Lord, so usual in this country : it is of large size, and beautifully
painted ; and Anna Naima and the Virgin are washing it ; and all the
attendant Angels are employed, the one by holding in his hand an ewer, the
other a basin, another a towel, &c.; and Joachim is looking in, from the entrance
of the house. On the right of the picture of Our Lady is that of the Trinity,
of a large size : and there is the table of Abraham and the Angels; and before
them is set a roast-pig, on a dish ; and Sarah and Hagar are bringing in jars of
drink. Above the head of the Angels is a delineation of Sodom and Gomorra,
KK
246 TRAVELS OF MACAR1US.
a very noble performance ; the fire is descending from heaven upon them,
and the Angels are destroying them ; their towers are upset and falling ; Lot
and his children are fleeing; and Lot's wife is turning round, and changing
into a pillar of salt. This painting is admirable ; and indeed throughout this
country of the Cossacks, as far as Moscow, they are very attentive in drawing
pictures of the Trinity, which are always to be found in their churches, without
fail ; as is also a painting of the Handkerchief of the Face (the Napkin of
Veronica) over the door of the Tabernacle. In like manner, on their hand
somely-worked banners, is the figure of the Trinity (the Three Angels), and the
table ; and Sarah is laughing behind the curtain.
We arose from this place on the morning of Thursday; and, having
travelled other three great miles, came in the evening to a large and populous
town, by name Brilmdoka, with strong fortifications. The castle is in the
inner part of the city; and is much to be admired, for its height and strength, its
towers, guns, battlements, and the depth of its moat, and for the abundance of
water flowing from it : for it has under ground a hidden tank, for the collec
tion of water to it from the running brooks and the immense lake in the neigh
bourhood ; and to this reservoir there are grottoes sunk. Within the castle is
also a magnificent, large, and lofty palace, of both a higher and lower range of
buildings, admirable for their spaciousness and height, and the size of their
jointed pannels and beams, both within and without ; and admirable, in the
different apartments, are the huge high stoves, which are taller than the tallest
cypress : but it was never thoroughly finished. Its era is written on the tops
of the roofs, which resemble those of the Hanak building, and of the town of
Maarah : these have their eras drawn and calculated in the Greek, and mark
ninety-six years after the birth of Christ : but the palace is ascribed to the year
of Our Lord 1645; and is consequently of only seven years standing, this being
the year 1654 ; and it is now a year since it fell into the hands of the Cossacks,
soon after their appearance. It was the residence of the fourth Polish Go
vernor, called Vishnoviska ; the meaning of which name is thus explained :
Vishna is a kind of cherry, and iska or aska is a termination attached to all the
appellatives in the language of this country : this compound therefore signifies
crimson or red-faced ; as they say Antiochiska, that is, of Antioch ; and Mosco-
viska, i. e. of Moscow. This officer commanded from the boundary of the
river Niepros to that of the river of Potiblia, which is the frontier of Muscovy.
Under his command were troops to the amount of 60,000 warriors, all drawn
from Moldavia, and Romelia, and Albania, and Germany, and from the various
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 2-17
tribes of this country. The Tartars gave him the name of Cochock Sheitan,
or The Little Devil ; for he subdued much of their territory, and ravaged it
with fire and sword ; their frontier being near to his. When Akhmil ap
peared, and conquered the country which is over the river Niepros as far as
Kiov, this Polish Governor sent to practise deceit upon him, by appearing to
bear him good will, whilst treachery was lying in ambush in his heart. His
design was, that when Akhmil should enter with his troops into the country of
the Poles, and be incautiously enjoying his triumphs, he himself should sud
denly march up to him, with his cavalry in the rear, and take him in the midst.
But Akhmil, who was master of great sense and quick apprehension, perceived
his design, and sent to him; saying, "If you wish for peace, arise and evacuate
" your country, and deliver it into my hands without fighting ; for I will not
" leave you for an enemy behind me." On receiving this message, he declared
open war; and despatched his troops, which were very numerous, to the assist
ance of the Khatman's enemies. The old man, Akhmil, rushed on them with
his valorous thousands, and put them all to the sword. The news of this
defeat was immediately carried to the Pole ; but there was not one near him who
would give credit to what was told him ; and he sat drinking in his palace within
this castle, attended by forty of his particular guests, when, behold, the standards
of Akhmil approached ! Instantly the Pole started on his feet, and, recovering
from his inebriety, mounted his horse, and fled with all his grandeur, after he
had put off his princely robes, and clothed himself in meaner garments. His
horse reared with him, and he fell, and his neck was broken ; and the Cossacks
overtook him ; and cutting off his head, carried it as a present to Akhmil, who
raised it upon a tall spear, and placed it on the threshold of the great hall of the
palace : — and thus this magnificent building which he had begun was never
finished, having eaten up, as it were, its own head ; and at present lies in a
heap of ruins, a receptacle for filth and hogs and dogs. Then his Lieutenant also
fled after him; and the Cossacks surrounded the place of his escape ; and he went
down by a secret door, and made his way towards the lake, over the bridge.
The Cossacks saw him, and overtook him. He had with him a couple of bags of
money of gold and silver ; and when they came close up with him, he cut open
the sacks, that the ducats might fall on the ground, and he might escape whilst
they were busied in gathering them up. But they both gathered them, and after
wards again overtook him with their horses ; and he, out of fear of them, drove
his steed into the lake. Then they reached him, and killed him ; and, dragging
218 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
him out of the water with their spears, cut off his head, which they raised on a
shaft, and placed near that of his master.
In this town were many Jews and Poles who were unable to make their
escape. Those among them who conformed to the true faith preserved their
lives and property ; but the recusants were put to death, and sent to the bosom
of Satanayil (JjuUUsLo).
To return : — On the south side of this castle is an immense lake, resembling a
sea ; and many are the rivers that flow into it. On its surface is abundance of
the white and yellow Nenuphar ; and upon it is a large bridge of great length,
on which many mills are built. At the head of this bridge is the hidden conduit
for supplying the castle with water : and near to this spot is a wooden house,
adapted as a hot-bath for the use of the public. On the outside of it is a long
wooden canal, over which a man is stationed, to raise water into it, from the river,
by a pump. From this canal it falls into a copper, where it is heated ; and there
the men and women wash themselves all together, without any covering, except
that each of them takes from the bath-keeper a kind of fan of brushwood, with
which they hide their nakedness ; and what is wonderful, is, that the very instant
of their coming forth from the hot-bath they plunge and swim in the cold river
that flows by the side of it.
To return: — The inhabitants of the above-mentioned town, both Clergy and
Laity, came out to meet us at some distance, according to custom ; and led us
into a spacious and lofty church, newly built, and still unfinished in its cupolas,
dedicated by the title of The Divine Manifestation, or Epiphany. Opposite to it
is a second church, of The Nativity of Our Lady; and the bell-tower is very high
and beautiful. Afterwards we were taken down to a large mansion, which has
delightful balconies for pleasant recreation, impending over the great lake and the
baths, where we staid till the morning of the following Monday.
SECT. III.
BRILMELOKA.— THE TROITSA MONASTERY.
THEN we set out on a visit to a convent in the neighbourhood, called Monastir
Costini Troitsa, or the convent by the name of The Trinity, founded by Vasili
Voivoda, of Moldavia ; the house where we were staying being a cloister depen
dent on that monastery. The Protopapas now sent to inform the Prior of our
purpose : and he immediately came in his carriage, and formally invited our Lord
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. ^i-9
the Patriarch, and thanked God, saying, " Praise he to the Almighty, who has
vouchsafed to us to hehold the third true Patriarch !" (It should he understood,
that they had seen the Patriarch of Jerusalem, Pa'isius ; and the Constantinopo-
litan Athanasius, the Patalaron, who was deposed, and who has heen mentioned
by us as having, after his flight from Constantinople, come into Moldavia, and
thence preceded us to Moscow, in which journey he passed by this convent :
afterwards he died near the town of Akhmil's chief residence, called Checherini,
on the third day of Easter of the present year :) — " and that we should look on
thy holiness, whom all benediction attend! K.yr Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch."
Then we left our baggage and horses, our servants and wagons, in the above-
mentioned town ; and went with him on that day, which was Saturday, taking
with us our sacerdotal robes, in the intention of performing mass in the convent,
which is distant about a great mile from the town. Its shining cupolas are seen
afar off; and before you arrive at it, you descend into a valley, and a narrow road,
skirted by a thick wood, all of filbert-trees, and cherry and bird's-heart ; and
near to it is a large lake, with mills ; and that part of the road which passes along
the mound is formed of matted reeds, and is difficult to travel over.
On our way, we passed, on our right hand, by a handsome church, built near
the lake, in the name of St. Nicolas ; where they say the convent formerly was
situated ; but in consequence of its having suffered by fire, they removed it, and
built it where it now is. On the outside, it has a double wall of wood, and a
double trench ; and above the gate is a tower for the bells, very handsome, and
furnished with a magnificent large clock of great price.
At this spot our Lord the Patriarch descended from the coach ; and he was met
by the Archimandrite, and the Priests and Deacons, in their princely robes, carry
ing torches, and banners, and crosses, and divine images : and we entered the
Monastery of the Holy Trinity. Its area is wide and spacious; and the cupolas
of the church are five, forming the shape of a cross ; they are of equal size, except
the middle cupola, which is larger than the rest. All round the church is a gal
lery, with a parapet of paling ; to which there are three doors, with three cupolas
over them, in a parallel line. Then we entered the holy church, the Iconostasis
of which is the amazement of the beholder.
On our entrance, the Patriarch asperged the attendants with the 'Ayiourpoc, as
usual ; and we went out again full of astonishment : for neither the Iconostasis
of St. Sophia, nor that of Petcherske, which rival each other in the perfection of
their beauties, can at all compete with that which we had just seen. For when
this convent was formerly consumed by fire, at that time the fame of Vasili Beg
2.30 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of Moldavia was celebrating his love for building churches and convents, and his
abundant bestowal of alms ; and the Prior and Monks of this establishment
hastened to appear before him, to request his charity and beneficence, and to en
treat that he would patronize them, and build up their monastery by his largesses.
He did not disappoint their expectations, but gave them what they desired of gold
for the reconstruction of their edifice ; and they came hither in consequence, and
erected this convent of wood, being persuaded that this situation was better for
them than the other. When the report of this affair reached the ears of the
Prince (whom God preserve !) Alexius, Emperor of Moscow, and he was informed
of what Vasili Voivoda had clone, he sent them also, on his part, one thousand five
hundred pieces of gold for the configuration of their Iconostasis, and for gilding
and painting its images in the magnificent and exquisite style that distinguishes
them. This Iconostasis is consequently superior to every other : at least I must
say thus much, that up to the present time we have not beheld any to compare
with it, in the beauty and lustre of its gilt and painting.
As to the sacred edifice itself, I should mention, that its cupolas, being covered
with tin, and surmounted by gilt crosses, are at once elevated and widely resplen
dent ; their number is five, in the shape of a cross ; the middle cupola being,
however, of a larger size and higher than the other four. In the body of the
church are three doors to enter, corresponding with the three doors without the
church : and when you pass in by the great western door, you behold in the
compass of the building the exact shape of a cross, the narthex being included
in it, with the tabernacle placed opposite, and on the sides the two choirs. All
round this church are rows of contiguous seats : but the choirs are formed into a
square shape, with separate chairs in rows, in the middle of which the singers
stand, being accessible by passages on all sides. Near to the right-hand choir is
the handsome chair of the Head of the Clergy : and also near the door of the
church, in the narthex, is another chair similar to it. On the sides of the two
choirs are likewise two elevated seats ; and in the centre is an octagonal circle
spread with red cloth. The place of the organ, where the singers stand, is very
high, and admirably inclosed with a balustrade : and the Iconostasis and Symbolon
are an ornament and a delight to the eye of the beholder. We have never, till
this moment, seen any thing to compare with the latter ; for the tongue is unable
to express its beauty, its grandeur and height, the multitude of its ornaments in
gold, the variety of its figures, and the dazzling brilliancy of its lustre. It is
raised from the ground to the top of the great cupola ; and the holy images are of
a large size, and framed in arched moulds, which reflect the brightness of the gold
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 2o 1
like mirrors. Above is an immense chandelier of admirable resplendency, in
which they hang the lamps at Morning Service. To the magnificent portraits of
Our Lord and Lady arc very large pillars, of great height and thickness,, furrowed
and fluted as though they were sound and solid; and they are of the most subtle
workmanship ; not like the pillars which are seen in Saint Sophia, which are hollow
at the back. On these the vine is creeping in folds ; and its stem and leaves are
of gold, with bunches of red transparent grapes and the unripe green, hanging
down as though they were the creation of God. These pillars are about the
height of a man from the ground. Under this image of Our Lord is another
picture of Him, (blessed be His name!) and His disciples — a superior performance!
He is carrying on His shoulders the lamb which was lost from the flock : the
sheep are in great numbers behind Him; and the shepherd is before Him, entering
in at the door of the sheepcot. On the left of this holy picture is the south
door of the tabernacle, which is the highest ; and on it is the portrait of Saint
Stephen, the Head of the Deacons : it is of large natural size. The saint's
princely Sr^a*;, and his golden thurible, are in his right hand; near him,
in the same row, is the picture of The Holy Trinity ; and there is the table, and
Abraham and Sarah. Under this is the picture of The Annunciation : and near
to it again the picture of The Assumption of Our Lady, which is new and large,
and magnificently gilt. These three fine pictures are in the right-hand row.
Under her (the Virgin) is a representation of the Apostles, who are assembled,
and looking into her tomb, which is empty, to their great astonishment ; and
nothing is to be seen but her shroud on the side of the marble coffin, into which
they are looking, whilst their hands are raised to heaven in the attitude of
saying, " She is gone up !" Under these pictures, in this row, are square plates of
metal, gilt and burnished ; and on them are the portraits of the Heads of the
Clergy, and the Patriarchs, and the Popes of Rome who remained true to the
faith, painted in their robes. The image of Our Lady, in the left row, is large and
handsome, displaying all the graces of her person : and under it is the represen
tation of her entrance into the Temple, and her attendant virgins are carrying
lighted torches. Near to this is the north door, with the picture of St. Michael :
and near to him, in that row, is the image of the glorious St. Nicolas, of great
size and magnificence ; and worthy of much admiration, being the performance of
a very skilful master, who has painted the human face with so much truth of
colouring, feature, and complexion, that you might suppose his work to have
been executed by a Grecian artist of the first eminence among the Ancients.
Near to this picture is that of the Saints Anthonius and Theodosius ; and between
2-32 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
them is the plan of the building of the Convent of Petcherskc : above is the figure
of the Virgin, appearing in the midst of a wood, in flames of fire. Under the
row of these images, which are all magnificent, there are also ten large separate
plates, squared and gilt, containing the figures of the Martyrs and Deacons, in
>1 lines : and the carved pillars, which divide the pictures, are ten in number.
Over them is the second row of pillars and paintings, which consist of the Twelve
Apostles, and Our Lady, and the Baptist : and to begin from the top of the royal
door, first is the Napkin of the Figure (the Veronica) ; above it, Holy Thursday ;
above that, Our Lord sitting on a throne, and wearing a crown of glory, with the
Angels ministering around him, and the Virgin, the Baptist, and the Apostles, on
his right and left : but Peter, with his keys, is close to his right hand ; and Paul,
with his sword, to the left, The whole number of the carved and gilt pillars'
which inclose the pictures is twelve, but they are finer than those under them.
Above the arch of these are also other paintings ; and among them are the por
traits of the Prophets. Above the picture of Our Lord is that of the Virgin, called
Platinara, with her child in her bosom. They are inside a circle ; and around
them are the rays of a sun of gold, made of gilt wood, and having all the appear
ance of solid metal. On the right and left of the Virgin is a row of the twelve
Prophets who prophesied concerning her : and above her is a picture of the
Crucifixion. At the top of the cupola is the figure of Our Lord and the Trinity,
and around are the Angels and Saints. Above the arch of the large pictures are
the representations of the great dominical festivals. In regard to the royal door,
I must observe, that its carving is most admirable, and its gilding princely, both
being performed with the utmost skill ; insomuch, that what is gilt appears solid
gold, and shines and glistens in the night like lightning. Round its border are
the portraits of the Deacons, in their robes, and carrying in their hands their
thuribles, and also those of the Priests in their OsAoW. The height of this
door, with the two others, is seven cubits. The tabernacle, and the Holy Table,
and the treasuries, are of the largest size and purest neatness ; and in the trea
suries are laid up robes of princely magnificence, with presents of great value from
the Emperor. The large windows, which are in this tabernacle, and in the church
and dome, are twenty in number, and are furnished with clear glass.
This is what we have been able to give of a description of some of the beauties
of this Iconostasis, for the astonishment of the ears of men, and of societies of
men; and that they may pray for the writer, who, with much care and labour
penned the description, not by way of amusement and pastime, but in the sweat
of exertion and the weariness of action.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 953
The banquetting-room, which I am next to describe, is long and wide, and
furnished with many glazed windows ; and on each side it has a table. Within
is a large door, with folds that slide back into the wall on each side ; through
which you enter a handsome church, with a great number of glazed windows,
round at the top, dedicated in the name of Our Lady. The pictures in it are
extremely beautiful, and of great value and estimation. This church also has its
cupolas covered with tin; and its tabernacle is brilliant with lights and burnished
metal.
Then they struck as well the wooden and the iron as the brass bells, on the
eve of Sunday, the ninth after Pentecost ; and we entered the church. At the
time of reading the Kadia-pa, of the Psalms, a young Monk came and placed a
high stool, like a reading-desk, covered with silk cloth, in the middle of the
church, and upon it set the Book of Psalms ; as it is the custom with them never
to read any book, of any quality or size, but so placed : and he began to recite
psalm after psalm in alternate verses, whilst they answered him in chaunt from
the two choirs. At the time of the E<Vo^v, the Priests took each a wax taper,
and went out in their copes, two and two : then they proceeded to the narthex,
and performed A/r^v,, whilst each of the Deacons was throwing incense on one
side or the other. Thus they said, " Save, O God, thy people !" alternately
between two, without setting the five loaves.
Then we went forth from the church to the banquet ; and our Lord the Patri
arch sat at the head of it ; we on his right and left, and the remainder of the com
pany, the fathers of the convent, at the lower end. Hereupon they set goblets
of beer and salt meats in coupled portions for each, in conformity with the custom
of the convents of Jerusalem : and they laid the dishes before us for a little while ;
and then took them up, either to set them lower down on the table, or to remove
them altogether. Afterwards they brought others, and again others, till all had
been served. As to the fathers of the convent, before each of them they set a
dish of flummery with butter, and nothing else ; this being their usual fare, and
no delicacy of food or variety of meats being ever allowed, except to strangers and
visitors. They are undoubtedly men of sanctity, and in the strict observance of
the rule of St. Saba. Then they placed upon the other table some flesh-meats,
for the inferior visitors, and for our servants : and at this moment the reader stood
up in the middle, and, having laid before him a large book, read a Lesson with a
very fine pronunciation. When they said the prayer over the table, there was
on the right hand of our Lord the Patriarch a small bell, which he rang three
L L
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
times, according to custom, for us to begin eating. Then we ate our fill and
drank to our satisfaction of what was before us, whilst the poor reader was en
gaged in reading from the UarsgMoy (^yo^txj). Then he rang the bell a second
time for his first formal draught ; whilst we stood up on our legs, and each of us
drank one of the goblets that were placed before us. Then he rang it a third
time, for all of us to stand up from table : and they brought before him one small
Host in a dish or tray, namely, the Ilai/ay/a, in the name of Our Lady ; and he
raised it between his hands, according to the usage of the Holy Mountain, three
times, saying, " Great is the name of the Blessed Trinity." Then came near
him the Priests and officiating Ministers, and chaunted "A%tov tcrriv, with their
heads uncovered, and, at the end, prostrating themselves on the ground. Then
he received a small portion of it himself, and thus distributed it to the assistants :
afterwards they brought a basket, to gather the fragments ; and each of us put
into it some fragments, in imitation of Him who blessed the loaves ; and after
wards they gathered them together.
Later in the day they tolled the bell for Prayers before Sleep ; and we passed
into the church, and stood with them in the narthex, according to their constant
practice ; and our Lord the Patriarch took his station by the chair fixed near the
door. As soon as the reader had gone through the Canon, and the Prayers, and
the Lessons, they all came, and, bowing two and two before our Lord the Patri
arch, asked him forgiveness.
Then we went forth to sleep ; but, alas ! there was no sleep to be had at this
season ; for the bugs and gnats were more numerous than the particles in the air,
and allowed us not to know even the taste of sleep or of slumber ; there being
a succession of lakes and pools of water from one end of this country to the
other.
They had designed that our Lord the Patriarch should perform mass for them ;
and yet without previous sleep how can mass be proper ? However, they
sounded the bells at the fourth hour of the night, which now consisted of only
eight hours ; and we arose at midnight. But in these holy and angelic mona
steries they have an excellent custom, inasmuch as they ring the first bell a long
time, merely for the purpose of arousing the inmates from their sleep, and con
tinue ringing whilst they rise and put on their clothes at leisure : which is not like
the practice in Moldavia and Wallachia, where immediately on their ringing the
bells they begin to flock into their churches. Then we entered the church,
though we had not so much as known the taste of sleep ; and they began to
TRAVELS OF MACARTUS. O5J
chaunt the Matins, consisting of the usual psalms and lessons, with a certain in
flexion of voice. We did not quit the church until the light of day had broken
forth ; but our eyes remained dark with somnolency.
Then they sounded the bells again at the time for mass ; and we went in and
robed, and invested our Lord the Patriarch with his pontifical ornaments ; and
finished the mass, at which most of the inhabitants of the township, forming a
large body of men, were present. Afterwards we went out to the banquet,
where they observed the same ceremonies as on the preceding evening : there
was a like lecture, and changing of dishes ; and the order of drinking was the
same. At the end of the repast, the ministering Deacon brought forward the
vessel of consecration, covered with the veil of the cup ; and set it before our
Lord the Patriarch, removing the cover. Within it was another vessel, covered
with a lid like it, of silver, and with a silver lock, which he opened. Within it
was painted the image of Our Lord (Lo'JUaJo) ; and there lay in it a piece of the
Host UUjy) or n«i/«7/a. Under all was a large cup, containing some mead in
stead of wine. And our Lord the Patriarch raised it up three times, as he had
done the evening before, and received a morsel of it, after they had chaunted
''A.%(ov \ffr\v -. then he gave it to the rest, who imparted it to each other as they
sat at table. In like manner he drank of the cup, as the others also did : and
we rose from table, and took leave of them, and returned to the town Braloka*,
where we had left our baggage .
SECT. IV.
ULmAM.—YOLOBIVNITSA.—KROBIVNA.—KRASNA.—KARABOTA.
FROM this place we arose on the morning of Monday the seventeenth of Tamoz ;
and having proceeded a mile and a half, we passed a large village surrounded
by cultivated lands and gardens and orchards, called Olsham, with a flowing lake
like a river. Then we proceeded another mile ; and entered another populous
village, situated also on a large lake. Again we advanced a mile ; and came to
a small market-town, with handsome fortifications, and a very large lake, called
* In page 246, a few lines, containing a four-mile stage and the name of the town immediately pre
ceding Brilmeloka, here written Braloka (tfjJj^), were by accident omitted. From the beginning of
the paragraph, it should be : " We arose, &c. and, having travelled three great miles, through solitary
deserts, came to a ruined borough, named Barfodi, containing a church dedicated to The Birth of Our
Lady, jjjls JUiUU . Then we advanced four miles further, and came, &c."
-250 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Yolobirnitsa, containing a beautiful church by the name of St. George. The
inhabitants were at this time, and had been, busied in gathering their harvest,
ever since the end of the month Haziran. Hence we arose on the morning of
Tuesday ; and having proceeded two miles and a half, passed a large and popu
lous town, surrounded with gardens, called Krobivnu, in which is a church
dedicated to The Assumption of Our Lady. Then we advanced another mile ;
and a Sotnicks came to meet us, with a banner and a large troop of soldiers,
who marched before us about two miles further, through many windings, and
over hills and dales, and narrow and rough roads, and over dikes of water and
bridges, and passing through various gates. And what a number of these gates,
and of the bars of timber that closed the roads, did we not break in this country
of the Cossacks, by occasion of the breadth of our carriages ! and what trouble
we had to pass over their bridges, which are as narrow as they are numerous,
in consequence of the multitude of their watercourses, and the smallness of their
wagons ! Now the mart, from which the Sotnicks had come out to meet
us, was very near on our left : but in front of it is an immense lake, extending
along its length and breadth ; and for this reason our road was a circuit
of two miles or more. Then we entered the town, the name of which is
Krasna. It has large ramparts ; and a castle hanging over the side of the higher
of the two hills, on the top of the lower of which the body of the town is seated.
To meet us came forth the Priests and other Clergy, and the rest of the people,
as usual, and conducted us into a church dedicated to the Holy Nativity.
During our entrance they fired three large guns. Here are also two other
churches ; one named after the Holy Trinity, the other after St. Nicolas,
which is newly built. Near this town is another mart, containing a church
dedicated to the Pasch or Passover.
From this place we arose on the Wednesday ; and after proceeding three
miles, came to a market-town called Karabota, round which are two large lakes.
They conducted us into a large, lofty, and magnificent church, which they had
newly built, but had not yet consecrated : they requested therefore our Lord the
Patriarch that he would consecrate it for them ; and he made an 'Ay/cur^o?, and
sprinkled the edifice both within and without the Tabernacle, and read over it
the well-known Prayers ; and anointed the table and the altar with the holy
ointment, and gave to it the name of St. Nicolas. Now for every church that
the Patriarch consecrated, they obtained from him a writing, with his seal and
signature, in testimony of the consecration, to satisfy their Metropolitan, and to
prevent his censures from falling on them.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 207
It is remarkable, that over the whole country of the Cossacks, in every
populous town and village, are houses set apart for the poor and orphans, at the
extremity of the bridges, and also in the centre of the towns ; and on the out
side of these houses are numerous images. They are much visited, and every
person who enters bestows an alms. It is not as in the provinces of Moldavia
and Wallachia, where the orphans go about with their books, and take up the
people's time with the multiplicity of their prayers.
The Cossacks, it should be observed, are God knows how much overstocked
with poor, the most of whom are orphan children, in such destitution as to soften
the hardest heart to pity ; and whenever we approached them, they gathered
round us in thousands, to beg an alms. The Patriarch felt much commiseration
for them ; and we could not but wonder that such should be their condition, in
this time of equity and justice under the government of Akhmil. What then
must have been the state of their circumstances in the time of the Poles, who
used to take from every human soul ten piastres a month in taxes ! Now, on
the contrary, we poor foreigners, God bless us ! are induced to bestow gratuities
on them.
It should be noted, that this town of Karabota is the last on the frontier of
the Cossack country ; and that beyond it is no longer to be met with any culti
vated land, but all is wild, desolate, and ruined. From it to Potiblia the distance
is six great miles.
Whilst we were in Karabota, the Voivoda of Potiblia, named Kyi* Nikita,
sent one of his servants hither, and to the neighbouring towns, to ask concerning
our Lord the Patriarch ; and he had been three days on the inquiry, going round
from place to place, because the people were inclined to detain us. By him the
Patriarch now sent a Letter with his blessing to his master, informing him of his
intention to come to him the next day : and in his company he despatched our
baggage and heavy burdens ; for it was our practice, as we have before mentioned,
to hire carriages and horses from one town to another. Any other method
it would have been impossible to pursue ; for innumerable were the poor animals
that halted with our weight, and dropped down on the road.
I will take occasion here to mention, that when we were heretofore on the
point of entering Constantinople, a great number of merchants from Moscow
presented themselves before our Lord the Patriarch, and communicated to us the
intelligence, that the august Emperor and the newly-created Patriarch of that
country were extremely impatient for the arrival of his Holiness, having been in
formed of his intended visit from the moment of his departure from his See of
958 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Antioch. ' They have great faith and confidence in your authority," said they
to our master ; " and their loving affection for you is much." And when we
were coining along our road in Moldavia, we were met by a Metropolitan, at
tended by a numerous company of Monks ; who also said to us, " In Moscow
they are expecting you (tcagrsgovv'), and are looking out for his Holiness with the
utmost desire." Kagregovv is a Greek word betokening the same sense as
^j^axL^e They are expecting. Also, when we were staying in Moldavia, there
came from this country some Heads of the Clergy and Heads of Monasteries,
attended by numerous Friars and merchants ; and the language of all of them was
in the same style. Afterwards, when, on the events which took place regarding
Vasili Beg of Moldavia, the roads in this direction were obstructed, and we were
forced to pass into Wallachia, but subsequently returned in the pursuit of our
journey, on no occasion did we meet with any Monk or merchant in this country
of the Cossacks who did not say to us, " What is the reason you have delayed
till now ? The Emperor, whom God preserve ! has asked about his Holiness a
number of times, and is in the height of expectation of you. Information has
reached him of what befel his Holiness in Moldavia, and how affairs have termi
nated ; and he had already sent, two years ago, to instruct the Voivodas of
Potiblia, that, immediately on the arrival of his Holiness within their neighbour
hood, they should conduct you over the frontier into the territory of Muscovy :
and they have been waiting for you up to the present moment, that, as soon as
you have made your entry into Potiblia, they may convey you forward into the
interior, in obedience to the repeated commands made to them by the august
Emperor, before he set out on his expedition."
Then we arose from Karabota, and proceeded on the road the distance of one
great mile ; and in the evening we halted, to pass the night in the open country
in perfect peace and security. The grass here is abundant ; and, under favour
of the entire safety of the roads, every person, according to his convenience,
travels alone, even though he should be carrying with him loads of gold.
SECT. V.
MUSCOVY.— POTIBLIA. RELIGIOUS HABITS OF THE MUSCOVITES.
ON the morning of Thursday the twentieth of Tamoz, which was the Festival
of St. Elias the Prophet, and the completion of the two years since our departure
from Aleppo, we arose ; and having travelled other five miles, over wild deserts
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 2«M)
and through extensive forests entirely destitute of water, in the course of which
progress we had occasional glimpses of the city of Potiblia from a great distance,
we passed the extreme boundary of the Cossack territory, and came to the bank
of the river called Sat/inii the Deep; which is the first line of frontier of the Mus
covite territory. At this instant the Lieutenant Voivoda, accompanied by a
numerous body of Grandees, came forth to the hither side ; and, having made their
prostrations to our Lord the Patriarch, they crossed us over to the further side of
the river, where they seated his Holiness in a coach standing ready to receive him.
Here we were quickly made sensible of the presence of thousands and thousands
of armed troops and of multitudes of people, who gathered round to receive the
Patriarch's blessing. After this ceremony, the troops struck up before us an
immense halloo with their arms, the first of them being too distant to see the last ;
and we began to mount the side of a large hill, the only steep road we had seen
from Wallachia hither ; the intervening tract being all plain lands and valleys in
innumerable succession. At length we reached the plateau, preceded and flanked
by a broad line of troops on each side. In the mean time the Voivoda was
waiting for us at a considerable distance from the town, between which and the
river the interval is great ; and every hour he was sending one of his nobles to
meet the Patriarch on the road, before whom the messenger always alighted
from his horse, and actually knelt to the ground, saying, ''' The Voivoda, thy
disciple, asks concerning thy Holiness, and thy attendants, and thy health, how
thou art ? and how thou hast passed along the roads, as it appears, by the bless
ing of God, in safety ? The Voivoda says his heart is with thee." Presently
we approached the Voivoda himself; who, as soon as he perceived us at some
distance, dismounted from his horse, and the Patriarch at the same time alighted
from his coach ; and to him the Voivoda made a first and a second prostration,
and at the third struck his head on the ground, as is always the custom with
them. Upon this the Patriarch signed a blessing over him, in the form of a
cross, after the usage of the benediction of the Muscovites ; that is, he raised
his hand in the lines of a cross, and then formed it on his face and shoulders and
breast ; and the Voivoda kissed his crosier, and afterwards his right hand. In
like manner did the Patriarch with all the Voivoda's nobles and attendants, this
being the ceremonial of the Benediction in this country ; and the more especially
as they are unacquainted with that pontifical blessing which is used to be dis
pensed to the people at a distance. Here the prelate must beat his fingers on
them, that they may be certified of the reality.
Now observe the faith, humility, and piety of these men,, to whom it would be1
2(50 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
fitting and in the course of their duty to humble themselves so if they met the
Emperor instead of us : but that they should in our respect throw themselves on
the ground, and kneel down in the mud, was truly admirable, drest too as they
were in high-prized robes, made of beautiful Angora fleeces or cloths, with broad
collars of heavy gold lace of great value, and knobs 01 buttons of the same mate
rial from the neck down to the skirt ; which latter kind of habit is also worn by
the common people. The neck-buttons of the shirt of the Voivoda and his
attendants were large pearls, of the size of a vetchling, round and white like
beads cut from marble ; and there were also some in the crown of their calpacks,
which are of red or rose-coloured cloth.
Then they granted each other condonation ; and after many salutations, and
an abundant expression of mutual friendship, our Lord the Patriarch having
re-entered his coach, and the Voivoda remounted his horse, they moved forward,
with the attendants preceding and following them ; and the troops before men
tioned, displaying the uniform elegance of their shapes and dresses, both led the
van and closed the rear, until we came near the town. Here the Priests in their
copes, and the Deacons in their ^r/^a^a, came out in great numbers to meet us,
carrying in their hands their thuribles and banners, and their images adorned
with pearls, and their crosses and large lanterns. The number of the Priests
was six and thirty, and with them were four Deacons in copes. The Monks, in
their large cowls and long cassocks, and girt with their belts, were still more
numerous.
Then our Lord the Patriarch descended from his coach; and in like manner
alighted the Voivoda, and his Grandees and Officers of State : and the Patriarch
bowed, and took a blessing from the holy images, the sacred Gospels, and the
pearl-adorned and richly-gilt crosses. Then advanced the Chiefs of the secular
Priesthood, and the Heads of the regular monasteries, and, after making their
prostrations to him, kissed his right hand, and congratulated him on his health
and safe arrival, saying, " By his coming is descended a blessing on the whole
of the land of Muscovy." Then they entered before us into the town ; and we
followed them, according to custom, on foot ; and the Voivoda and his attend
ants walked behind our Lord the Patriarch. In front of all were the troops,
and in the middle were the Clergy, walking before us, two and two, in excellent
order, without confusion. To have shewn that the vengeance of the Almighty
had fallen upon any one, was for him to be met riding on horseback in any of
these streets : they made no more to do, but instantly threw him from his horse
on the ground, and, breaking his head with their clubs and staves, said, " How
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. 261
is this ? Our prince is walking, and you must be riding ! — Be off', sir !" Every
time we came in sight of a church, its bells were rung by the young men and
ecclesiastics belonging to it ; till at length we were conducted into one of
towering height and pleasing architecture., with lofty cupolas of elegant propor
tions ; its crosses differing from those used with us only by having spear-heads
at the top and on each arm, richly gilded, as they always are here. This edifice
is one of the most noble and excellent in the country, and is dedicated in the
name of the Great St. George. Then they led us down to a large mansion in
the occupation of the Protopapas; and we interchanged adieux with the Voivoda,
who departed.
After a short interval, the Grandees of the town came and presented to our
Lord the Patriarch a magnificent service from the sovereign ; which was carried
by a number of Janissaries, and consisted of various kinds of bread and fish, and
barrels of mead and beer, besides spirits, cherry-water, and a great quantity of
wine. The principal personage of the deputation, stepping before the rest,
struck his head on the ground in worship, and was immediately imitated by his
companions. The Patriarch blessed them, in the form of the Muscovite bene
diction. The principal then took in his hands, first the bread; and presenting it
before the Patriarch, said, " The Emperor, preserved of God, the Kniaz Alexio
Michaelovitz, presents to thee, of his goodness, this bread and salt." The Patri
arch in the mean time was standing up, and returned his thanks and good
prayers for each thing as it was presented, by the tongue of the Interpreter whom
we had hired in Moldavia ; as had been done also by the Metropolitans and
Monks, and even by each of the merchants, every one of whom brought with
him an interpreter acquainted with the language of this country. To ours we
used to speak in Greek or Turkish, and he rendered our address to them in Rus
sian : for one and the same is the language of the Cossacks, and of the Servians,
of the Bulgarians, and of the Muscovites.
To return : — Then he brought forward something else and something else,
until he had finished the list of all that they had to present ; and they departed.
In like manner, the Voivoda also, whom we have before mentioned, sent, on
his part, some of the chief of his attendants, and by them a princely banquet of
some forty or fifty dishes, carried by Janissaries. There was fish of various
kinds, boiled and roast ; and many kinds of it fried in paste with stuffing, so
varied, that we never in all our lives saw any thing equal to it. There were also
several sorts of fish pounded after the bones had been removed, and moulded
into shapes of ducks and fowls, roast and fried : likewise various kinds of puddings
MM
-262 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and dumplings, and so forth, made with eggs and cheese. The sauces were all com
pounded of the choicest vegetables; and in them were saffron and the most deli
cate of the sweet-scented herbs and spices; in short, the viands consisted of every
tiling that might be looked for from a royal kitchen. Among the vessels were
cups of silver gilt, filled with a variety of spirits, and different wines from Eng
land. Then there was a liquor made from cherries, resembling syrup, of most
delicious flavour and exquisite fragrance, served with candied lemon ; all imported
from the country of the Franks. As for the barrels of beer and mead, they were
many and large ; and were furnished to us as plentifully as though they had been
rilled with plain water.
And now the chief of the deputation stepped forward, and, kneeling on the
ground with his companions, said : " Nikita Alexio strikes his head on the earth
before thy Holiness, begging thy prayers and blessing ; and presents to thy
Holiness and Paternity this bread and salt." At the same time he presented, with
both his hands, first the white bread, then the brown, and then the dishes and
barrels, naming each by its name, till lie had gone through the list. To receive
these presents, our Lord the Patriarch stood on his legs; and as each article was
offered to him, he pronounced a benediction on it, and a prayer for the donor;
and, at the end, expressed much gratitude for the Voivoda's generosity. After
this, the deputation retired.
Now observe, Reader, this singular degree of humility and piety, in a dignitary
whose rank was not merely that of an ordinary Voivoda, but who stood in the
pre-eminence of a Vazir : for this city of Potiblia, being a frontier town, is the
seat of a large jurisdiction ; and therefore they did not mention its Governor,
before our Lord the Patriarch, by the appellation of Voivoda, but by his proper
names, Nikita Alexio. The meaning of the second, or Alexio, is son of Alexius ;
for it is the practice with the Muscovites to name a man or a woman, not singly
by their own, but by the addition of their father's name also ; and this is done
even among the lowest class of labourers. The meaning of ' Alexio' might perhaps
also be rendered, A magistrate newly appointed by the Emperor Alexius : for this
Voivoda was one of the servants of the Patriarch, who, conceiving an affection
for him, obtained for him this government of Potiblia. Usually, the Voivodas in
this country of Moscow are elderly men, taken from among the Emperor's Mini
sters, and possessed of noble birth and reputation ; and each of them remains in
office for three years, at the end of which he is dismissed.
The meaning of ' Alexio,' to explain it further, is relative to birth and family ;
and this name accompanying the former is equivalent to ' Nikita son of Alexius.'
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 2(i^
Thus it is the custom., over the whole of this country of Moscow, not to name any
person, whether king or subject, great or small, rich or poor, by his single bap
tismal name; but the Emperor they call Alexius Micliaelovitzi ; and his chief
minister,, Ivano Vasili, with the patronymic termination ; and Such-an-one Such-
an-oue, with the patronymic termination : and after this manner they name every
person, as we were distinctly informed from their own mouths.
And the meaning of the phrase, " Strikes his head on the earth before thy
Holiness " is to the very letter ; for this act was really done by the Grandees.
Whenever they bowed down before the Patriarch, which they always did a first
and a second time, they invariably beat their heads on the ground, so that
we heard the knock. Such humility should be regarded with admiration.
For it is the custom in all this country of Moscow, when any person has a
petition to present either to the Emperor or any Officer of State, or to the Patri
arch or any Chief of the Clergy, that he bow down to him in a number of low
obeisances to the earth, until he obtains his attention to his request, and the
magistrate asks him concerning his need. If then he grants it, it is well ; but if
otherwise, the petitioner ceases not to make his obeisances, and to knock his
head on the ground, until the dignitary decides his affair. And this they call
by a compound term, which signifies, " Knocking the head on the ground." We
saw more of this afterwards, when the Priests and Grandees used to come to our
Lord the Patriarch in quality of suppliants, and their heads ceased not to touch
the ground until he satisfied their requests.
In regard to the sense of their saying, " Presents to thy Holiness this bread
and salt," first ; and afterwards, " These several articles" according to their
number ; this, I would assert, is originary with us, and must have been brought
hither to them by some one from our country.
Then the Protopapas of the town came to our Lord the Patriarch, bringing
an offering, and bearing his l~legirga,%r]Xioy, and some holy water, and a cross;
and said, after he had performed his salutations, " This is part of the blessing of
the Festival of St. Elias, celebrated on the present day :" and he proceeded to
sprinkle the house with the holy water with his own hand, and we sprinkled our
selves. After this he departed.
We have before mentioned, that it is the usage over all this country, at the be
ginning of every month, and on every distinguished festival, that the clergy make
an 'AyiKtriAos, or consecration of water, and go round with it to sprinkle the houses
of the inhabitants.
And now, Reader, we entered into the second gate or stage of labour, sweat,
2G_j, TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
fatigue, and fasting ; for every person in this land of Muscovy, from the most
secular of the common people to the strictest of the recluse, confines himself to
one meal in the day, though it he even the longest in the summer season : and
from mass they never go out till near the eighth hour, or perhaps half an hour
later, seldom sooner ; and all their churches are entirely unfurnished with seats.
Then after mass they recite the Nones ; and all this time the people stand on
their legs without a moment's rest, silent as statues, turned all one way, and
changing their posture only hy bending to the ground in frequent Metanoias.
Custom has made them insensible to weariness, and rigid against the indulgence
of the smallest relaxation. Our feeling, whilst in the midst of them, was of
intense wonder : and for our parts we never left the church but tottering on
our legs, which almost refused to carry us after so much fatigue and standing,
continued without a moment's rest or the slightest intermission. At the Matins
or Morning Prayer, they never fail to read each day three ' Amyv&fftig or
Lessons in exposition of the Gospels, &c. taken from the writings of the suc
cessive Fathers of the Church. So again in the evening, after Vespers or
Evening Prayers, they are sure to have the Kavuv Kadnpsgivog, or daily regulated
Lecture.
As to the Fast which we call **^ or " To the ninth hour," they are un
acquainted with it as such; for every day, whether it be a great even, or
whether it be a small Festival, they fast till after the ninth hour. We indeed
had been counselled and instructed and cautioned by our friends, who had pre
viously visited this country, and had been made acquainted with the temper
and constitution of the inhabitants; and we maintained appearances before
them, in spite of our inward rage and sufferings. Whatever they did, in us
they found the most careful imitators. For we had been told, by well-informed
persons, that any one really desirous of shortening his pilgrimage here on earth
by a curtailment of five or ten years of his life, should pass his way into the
country of the Muscovites, and walk among them as a religious man; holding
forth the shew of perpetual abstemiousness and fasting, of continual reading
and prayer, and of the constant and unremitted practice of rising at midnight
to perform his nocturnal devotions. He must also banish all mirth and laughter
and jokes, and renounce the eating of opium : for they set guards over the
Heads of the Clergy, and over the convents here, and examine all persons going
into them, whether by day or night ; and at all times they keep a strict watch,
by looking through the crevices of the doors ; observing whether the inmates
are in the practice of devotional humility and silence ; whether they persevere
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US.
ill fasting and prayer ; or whether they get drunk, and amuse themselves with
play, or jest, or commit any indecent act, or use any obscene or unbecoming
language. If such a Government, as exists among them, had existed likewise
among the Greeks when an independent nation, they would have retained their em
pire to the present moment: for the Russians, whenever they perceive any person
guilty of either a great or a small offence, send him away instantly, with troops of
other prisoners, to the land of darkness,, where there is no escape, whence no
return is ever granted, and where emancipation from slavery is unknown : they
banish him to the province of Siberia, to be there employed in collecting sable,
gray-squirrel, black-fox, and ermine furs. The distance they have to travel is a
journey of three years and a half, far away to the shores of the Great Ocean,
where there is no fixed abode nor permanent cultivation. Thus we were
informed by persons of veracity and strict inquiry ; who also told us, that the
Muscovites no longer send back offending foreigners to their own country, and
thus give them a chance of repeating their visit ; but — in the frequent case of
rambling Greek Friars, who come among them and perpetrate all sorts of
impurities and unheard-of crimes and enormities, getting drunk, and drawing
daggers on each other to commit murder — they now, beholding the deformity
of their actions, instead of placing faith and confidence in them as formerly,
have taken to this method, which we have mentioned, of correcting them;
that is, they send them into darkness : and for the special crime of drinking
tobacco- smoke, they even put them to death. Now what shall we say, Brother,
as to this rule of treating them, except that undoubtedly they deserve and
require to be so used ? — and for this cause we were in great fear, on our own
account.
But we pray continually to our God for help and patience unto the end, and
for tranquil silence, and for the attainment of what, by His permission, we are in
search of; and that the fatigues and hardships we have endured may not be
lost, but that he will bestow on us, by His Providence, a fulfilment of our debts
and obligations and interests, and not cast any of us into trouble and courts of
justice ; having regard to these dreads and horrors, which we have looked in
the face ; and that he will not estrange any one of us from his beloved city,
and family, and kindred, sweeter than bread and water to the famished
wanderer.
•266 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. VI.
POTIBLIA.— TREATMENT OF FOREIGNERS.— POSTING.
IT should be remarked, that this town of Potiblia * is the road into the country
of Moscow,, from all parts of ours ; and that there is no other way whatso
ever but this, which is an immense gulley between high rocks. And what
labours and struggles of numbers of men, both Chief Priests and Monks, have
been lost on reaching this pass, whence they have been turned back to lament
the vanity of their wearisome pilgrimage ! As to merchants and traders of all
kinds, the Muscovites refuse to know them ; and never, for any purpose of traffic,
allow them to enter their territory. When the merchants do obtain admission,
it is effected by much artifice ; and one of their contrivances is, to assemble
in a body, and take out a Letter from the Syndicate of one of the Patriarchs,
addressed to the Emperor, on business pleasing and agreeable to him, and likely
to give him joy. With this, on arriving here at Potiblia, they affect the
character of envoys from such and such a Patriarch, commissioned to carry his
written message to the Emperor : and having appointed among themselves a
chief, they in this capacity effect (heir entrance into the country, and present
their Letters to his Majesty. In the mean time, they secretly transact their
mercantile affairs ; and then return the way they came, after they have obtained
their conge from the Emperor. But this method of proceeding there are but
few that know how to manage ; those only who have tried it a number of times,
and who are acquainted with every span of the road : almost all, such as the
Heads of Convents, and ordinary Monks and merchants, wait for the passage of
one of the Patriarchs, or some well-known Metropolitan, and by his permission
unite themselves to his train. On his arrival at Potiblia, the prelate calls them
his suite, and makes out a list and certificate of their several degrees. The
Heads of Convents and the Monks are ranked with his noble attendants ; the
merchants with his slaves or menials. Being admitted into the interior of the
empire, each of them, on occasion, and particularly at the time of asking charity,
exhibits his certificate as furnished him by the prelate : and the merchants,
under this feigned character, sell and buy what they wish. Afterwards, they all
leave the country together. Should any conventual chief or merchant, of
* The name of this town in the Russian maps is written IiyTIIBAb, corresponding as nearly as pos
sible with the Archdeacon's Arabic UiuJ>)J • The river on which it is situated is the C6Mb.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 267
wliatcver respectability or celebrity, come alone,, it is quite impossible that they
admit him ; and this every person interested well knows. All this is out of
hatred to the men of our country andlanguage.
It should be observed, that on no part of the frontier of this whole empire
of Muscovy is there any custom of taking toll on merchandize., even in the small
est sum : but the sovereign, on the contrary, in return for the insignificant pre
sent made to him by the merchants, gives them princely gifts of sables, and so
forth ; and appoints them a regular pension, which lasts until the time of their
departure for their own country. I am here speaking of the Greek merchants :
but in the port of the Archangel they take toll from the Frank ships, at the
rate of ten piastres in a hundred. Likewise from the Muscovite merchants,
who pass from one province to another in the course of their traffic, they take
a like toll : for the police established in this great empire is admirable. Its
sovereign has no occasion for merchants to come to him from the side of
Turkey to purchase his sables and other furs ; which they do, it, is supposed, to
the extent of a million ducats yearly ; because he is continually receiving em
bassies from the country of the Shah, that is, from the country of the Kizzilbash,
which come to him in ships laden with rich presents and offerings worth thou
sands of pieces of gold. These they give him; and he requites their generosity
with his most valuable sables, rather exceeding than falling short of the price
of their wares. In like manner come embassies to him from the country of the
Nemsa, or Germans. But the richest (^wttc) of all the Franks, the English,
come in thousands to the port called of the Archangel, with the valuable manu
factures of their country ; and import also wine, oil, lemons, &c. ; taking furs, £c.
in exchange, as we shall fully explain in the proper place.
It should be here mentioned, that the Voivoda of Potiblia, immediately on
our arrival, sent Letters to the Emperor who was engaged in the war at
Smolensko, and also to the Patriarch, to apprise them of our coming. Next,
he sent to our Lord the Patriarch a Toa^uarixoc, or Writer, to take down the
names of his suite, and of every person with him. And now he wrote our
degrees, and names, one by one, as directed by our Lord the Patriarch, who had
authority to write what he pleased : and we and our companions were about
forty persons. Those merchants and poor men who had placed themselves
under our protection we numbered and registered among our servants. As to
the Chiefs of convents who had joined our company, they wrote themselves as
seven Archimandrites, each attended by^ns Kellari or Butler, according to
custom.
268 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
On Friday, after mass, the Voivoda presented himself at the door of our
Lord the Patriarch's apartment. If the visitor had been of higher rank than
a Voivoda, custom would not have permitted him to wait without until we went
to give notice to the Patriarch to prepare himself and put on his cassock; and
we should have been thrown into great confusion, and perhaps disgrace. Tor
in this country of Moscow, no Chief Priest or Patriarch ever puts off his
cassock, nor is it possible for any one ever to see him without it, even though
he should be travelling, for fear he might he regarded with an eye of contempt.
Nor do the Monks ever put off their cowls ( J^:), though retired to the pri
vacy of their own cells ; and when they go out, they must necessarily wear a
black cassock. Should any Friar of any religious order be seen going about
without a cassock or a cowl, he is instantly sent to Siberia, to be employed in
gathering furs.
Before we came to Potiblia,we were told that a Metropolitan from Servia was
about to enter the Muscovite territory. We had known him in Wallachia; and
lie had obtained a Letter from our Lord the Patriarch, by means of which he
gained admission. This man, at a time when the Patriarch of Moscow was
going round in Litany, that is, in procession, through the city, to beg the blessing
of God on the Emperor, took it into his head to change his cassock of Chief
Priest for a .Monk's of wool, and went forth to walk and view the streets and
ceremony ; saying within himself; " Not a person knows me." Now it is against
their regulations for any foreign Bishop or other ascetic of whatever habit or
degree to go about the town, except by an express permission from the Emperor
on the execution of necessary business : and they immediately recognised the
Metropolitan, and reported him to the Patriarch, who, on the instant, sent him
off in banishment to the land of darkness, where are establishments to a life in
which death is much to be preferred : so that this unfortunate ecclesiastic, who
had come hither for gain, lost not only his purpose, but his dear self moreover.
Thus, whenever they see any person, abandoned by his better fate, looking
attentively at a cannon or examining a fort, they seize him on the spot, and carry
him away to Siberia; saying, " You are surely a spy, Sir, introduced among us
from the country of the Turks." The intent of all this is, that they regulate the
police and government of their States with the utmost nicety and severity.
But to return to the visit from the Voivoda :— After we had prepared the Pa
triarch for it, we went out and invited him to enter, which he did. The manner
of their entering, whether they be Grandees or of the common people, into the
apartment of a Chief Priest, is as follows ;— and how beautiful it is ! In perfect
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
2G9
silence, at first, the Voivoda signed the cross on his forehead, and bowed to the
images : for in every house there is sure to be an Iconostasis ; and in whatever
place our Lord the Patriarch sat, there, in compliance with their usage, we fixed
the Iconostasis over his head. Then the Voivoda stepped towards the Patriarch,
to receive his benediction, after the fashion which we have already mentioned, of
the Muscovite blessing : and having bowed down to him to the earth a first and
a second time, he then made an inclination with his head towards the company
on the four sides. After this, he began his salutations and discourse in audible
language; and with much effort was forced by the Patriarch to take a seat.
Still, whenever the Patriarch said any thing to him by the mouth of the Inter
preter, he would stand up until he gave his answer. And now the Patriarch
took occasion to address him on behalf of the conventual chiefs who had joined
our company. He replied: " I have no orders, except that, on the arrival of
•' your Holiness, I should immediately expedite your further journey into the
' interior ; and we have now been expecting you for nearly two years : but as
'e to any others besides your proper suite, I have no orders." The Patriarch,
however, repeated his solicitations in favour of the Monks ; and the Voivoda at
length wrote down their names for admission. With us was also come a great
number of poor men, in regard to whom no other arrangement was practicable
or attainable, but back they must return, after receiving an alms from the
Voivoda : and thus the labour and expense of their wearisome journey, all the
way from Wallachia, were entirely thrown away.
Then he assigned us a lodging in a large hotel ; where we had accommoda
tions for our horses and carriages, and for our equipage and servants connected
with them. Generally, they allow no person to introduce his own carriages and
horses from abroad ; an exception was made only in favour of our Lord the Patri
arch, whose coach and horses were permitted to pass the boundary. The
Voivoda always furnishes each person with a carriage and horses ; that is, with
a Government car, called in Turkish Olakluk ; which, in the Russian language,
they call Vovods. This equipage is hired the distance from one town to an
other, and is a means of conveyance excellently well contrived. Our own
horses, or any other person's, could not possibly carry us over these roads in a
continued journey: the ground of the provinces we were to pass through is too
rough and difficult, as we shall have occasion to mention in the sequel. Of the
rest of our company, some sold their horses for one-fourth of their value :
others left them with their servants, to be taken care of, at their expense, until
they returned : in the mean time, the beasts would eat twice, at least, if not
NN
270 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
three times, the price of their purchase. And now an agreement was made
with the Voivoda, that he should furnish us with three and forty carriages, and
horses for us and our companions : and he ordered them accordingly.0 After
wards, he requested, at the close of the conference, that our Lord the Patriarch
would say mass at his church in the fort, on the Sunday following: adding,
that on the Monday he would be at liberty to pursue his journey, for which
every thing would be prepared. This was assented to, and the Voivoda de
parted.
It may be remarked, that this Voivode of Potiblia is the Lieutenant and
Vicegerent of the Emperor, in the present circumstances of the times; and
that whatever he does by way of kindness and help, is within and over above
his written instructions : and blessed is the man with whom he is well pleased !
SECT. VII.
POTIDfJA.— DESCRIPTION OF Till: CITY AND NEIGHBOURHOOD.
Tins city of Potiblia is vast ; and well situated, on high ground overlooking
the river which runs close by. Its orchards are numerous ; and its gardens,
inclosed with the house walls, are rich and plentiful. The beautiful apple-trees
growing here exceed in number the plants of the forest, and their burden of
fruit vies with the abundance of the showering acorn. In equal exuberance is
the cherry and the bird's-heart. The grape is also found here in great quantity;
but it is high priced. The same may be said of the garden v^ and the plum-
tree, and of the royal cherry.
The fort stands on the top of a high hill; and we had seen none to compare
to it in the country of the Cossacks. It is such as might be expected to be
found on the frontier of a great empire. Its fabric is of wood; and it is defended
by strong towers, and walls surmounted with turrets and flanked by deep moats;
which latter are also fortified with palisades. The bridges, which form at the
same time the closure of the gates, are of wood, and are raised by chains and
pulleys. This fort is indeed vast and magnificent; and is to be admired, not only
for its essential strength and castle-grandeur, but also for the handsome dwelling-
houses which fill its interior, and shew beautiful rows of pillars to the de
lighted eye. The hill on which it is situated is perfectly round : and it has a
sunk well, to which water runs, through a hidden passage, from the river; and is
thence raised by wheel-work.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 271
Within this fort is a second castle, of much greater strength, surrounded with
towers and walls and moats,, apparently impregnable; and furnished with a large
number of guns,, of various sizes, mounted in rows above each other.
This citadel contains four churches ; named, of The Passover, of The Assump
tion of Our Lady, of The Divine Manifestation, and of Saint Nicolas ; the last
being quite new. In consequence of the natural strength of this place, and of
the number of fortifications added to it by art, the Poles, who formerly came to
besiege it with forty thousand men, and held on their siege for the space of
fourteen months, were utterly unable to take it, and were forced to retire with
great loss both of labour and troops.
The number of churches in the town amounts to twenty-four ; and there are
four convents in their vicinity. The first church is in the name of The Trinity:
the second, £c. Of the four convents, three are for Monks ; the fourth is for
women.
The description of the churches is, that they are all built upon vaults rising
above the ground, whether they be of wood, or stone, or burnt brick ; and from
the ascent of a high flight of steps you are landed on an elevated gallery, which
forms the circle and body of the edifice ; according to the saying of Our Lord
the Messiah, in his holy Gospel : " Two men went up into the Temple to pray;
the one a Pharisee, the other a Publican." Each church has three doors; one
on the west, another on the south, and a third on the north : and on this plan
are all the churches in this country, to the remotest districts northward. The
images and Iconostases displayed in them arc of fine workmanship ; and the ma
terials used for them arc silver, figured silks, and gold leaf or liquid gilding, all
of the first quality. Many of the pictures are of great value, for their antiquity:
and in this country they have great faith in old paintings of holy images. There
is not a church, that ranks among the large churches of the empire, that has
not a picture of Our Lady working great miracles ; as we witnessed with our
own eyes, which beheld proofs and wonders.
The bells which are in the towers of their churches are all of brass, if they
are large; and if small, of silver; and their sound is heard to a great distance.
But they are not set in motion, as they are among the Wallachians and Cossacks,
with ropes by men : here they have two slight cords tied to their iron clappers,
which are thus beaten against their rims by young boys and children pulling the
cords from below. By this method of ringing the bells, a beautiful chime, loud
but sweet, is produced. The towers and belfries are rounded as octagons ; and
are of pleasing architecture, being surmounted with lofty and elegant cupolas.
272 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
All the domes of their churches are of the same elegant and lofty structure ;
unlike the cupolas in the country of the Cossacks, which resemble those of our
own, and are too grossly broad as well as too plainly round.
SECT. VIII.
DESCRIPTION OF THE CLERGY, AND CHURCH SERVICE AND CEREMONIES.
IN regard to the dress of their Clergy, as well Priests as Deacons, it may
be stated, that their surtout or upper garment is of drab or olive-coloured cloth
of ordinary materials, and sometimes of the fine dyed wools of Angora, set with
crystal or silver gilt buttons, reaching from the neck to the feet in front,
and adorned with fringe or narrow raised edgings of silk. The capouche or
collar is of the same materials, made of about a span in breadth, and carried
entirely round the shoulders and breast, resembling a HzgiTga^Xiov in shape,
only a little above the breast. By this dress the Priests and Deacons are known
to be ecclesiastics; as it is so shaped, that it may easily be distinguished from the
costume of the women. The dress of the Protopapas, for distinction's sake, is
made up of heavy brocade, and they are immediately known from the ordinary
Clergy. On their heads they all wear a long calpack of felt, which they take
off at prayer, and in the presence of their chiefs; as it is the custom on those
occasions to stand bareheaded.
The manner in which the laity enter the churches is as follows : first, each
person makes a number of bows to the ground ; then he inclines his head to
the people present, one after another; and if they are many, he bows to the east
and west, to the south and north, for all. The bovs and children are well taught
o
this ceremony; and perform their Metanoias, and inclinations to the company, in
a prettier style than the grown-up persons. The sign of the cross they make in
their own peculiar Muscovite fashion, striking their clustered fingers on the
forehead and the shoulders. From the beginning of the Prayers to the end they
cease not to make their Metanoias in constant succession ; and at the mention
of Bogoroditsa, that is, the name of our Gracious Lady, the Mother of God, they
strike their foreheads on the ground ; and no one, out of love and respect for
the name of the Venerable Virgin, ever neglects to prostrate himself. So also
on their entering any house, they first make the sign of the cross towards the
Iconostasis, then they bow their heads to the persons present : and in this
manner do also their young boys and girls, being suckled from their birth with
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 07;}
the milk of faitli and devotion. For our parts, when we saw the Russians per
forming these ceremonies, we were not astonished at the accuracy of the grown
up people in any degree approaching to the surprise with which we beheld the
children, as they bunched their fingers in due form and made their Muscovite
cross. How can they, thought we, have learnt so precisely to cross themselves,
small as they are ? and how can they have been taught to bend their heads to
the company ? We poor Syrians knew not the manner of crossing ourselves as
they did ; and they used to laugh at us for our ignorance and awkwardness.
We were nevertheless rather agreeably amused, or rather we were delighted,
when they used to say to us: " Why do you cross yourselves on the breast;
and not strike your fingers on your foreheads and shoulders, as we do?" But
what a blessed country is this, which is purely inhabited by Christians, without
a single Jew, or Armenian, or Infidel of any other sect, or even the knowledge
or acquaintance of them! Here all, both at the doors of their houses and of
their shops, and also on the public streets and roads, set up holy images; to
which every person, as he enters or goes out, turns his face and crosses him
self. So, likewise, whenever they come within sight of a church-door, they bow
to the images from a distance. Over the gates of their cities too, and of their
castles and forts, they always have an image of Our Lady withinside, and an
image of Our Lord without, inclosed within a latticed alcove, with lamps burn
ing day and night : and to these the passengers bow, as they go in and out.
They have likewise crosses erected on the tops of their towers. This is indeed
a blessed country, and here the Christian faith is preserved in its undoubted
purity! When the people used to come to our Lord the Patriarch to ask his
blessing, and, after bowing to the images and making their obeisance to the
company, approached near to receive his benediction in the Muscovite fashion,
nothing appeared to me so surprising as the manner in which they rounded
their shoulders as they stooped before him; all of them, as well men and women
as children, having crosses of silver or other metal hanging at their necks. But
they have been taught this by the tradition of their fathers and grandfathers,
Blessings be upon them! and they are crowned with happiness; for all their
days are numbered in joy. Free from taxes and imposts and debts, they have
no urgent business, but that of hastening from their dwellings to the church ;
and are very different from the foolish part of mankind, who seem to feel most
delight in hurrying away in the contrary direction; I mean, from the church
homewards. As for envy and the other vices, this people is entirely unacquainted
with them.
274 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. IX.
PO TIB LI A.— TA R TA R SLA FES.
To return to our history.— On the tenth Sunday after Pentecost, the Voivode
Nikita sent his principal officers to invite our Lord the Patriarch to the celebra
tion of mass; and we accompanied them towards the castle; which we entered,
after having made a number of inclinations to the images at the gate. Then we
proceeded further into the inner fort, where the Patriarch was met by the Voivode
Nikita, who bowed to his Holiness ; and we ascended to the High Church, which
is dedicated to The Divine Manifestation. It has a gallery all round. Near the
north door were standing the women in attendance on the wives of the Grandees,
who were dressed in the most valuable stuffs and sable furs, having for their sur-
tout garment a kind of wide riding cloak, with large buttons, lined with fur, and
very long, mostly of a red or rose colour ; and wearing on their heads a calpack
•f velvet, laced with gold, and set with pearls. Their maids were numerous, and of
the Tartar nation ; as was evident by the shape of their faces and their small eyes,
are slaves taken in Avar, and are used as concubines. We saw some thou-
them in this country ; for their purchase-price is very low, and they are
cheap. Every rich man here has also forty or fifty male Tartars in his esta-
shment : they are remarkable for the same kind of black lanky hair as that of the
Muscovites, but are distinguished by the smallncss of their eyes. Their names, in
a perfect spirit of orthodoxy, are taken from the Christian Church; and their
levotion and religious knowledge surprised us, on examination, to the utmost
Their names are of the principal Saints, such as Theodosius and Eu-
is, Vasilius and Eremius, Theodorus and Gregorius : these are the names of
The girls and women in a state of slavery are named Thecla, or
dora, Justina, Euphemia, Juliana, Barbara, Marianna, Cora, or Eupraxia-
These and similar names, which arc selected among the noblest ever borne by
Christians, are given to the Tartars ; who, from their original state of heathenism,
are converted by baptism into members of the peculiar flock of God. When, in
attendance on their masters, they used to approach our Lord the Patriarch with
the Voivodes and rich men of the empire, we, out of the pleasure we felt in
beholding them, used to address them in the Turkish language ; at which they
blushed, and, smiling in their confusion, seemed distressed that we should perceive
they were from Tartary, and had been baptized and converted to Christianity.-
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US. 275
God knows, we did not converse with them out of idle curiosity, nor did we say
any thing to them improper or impertinent 1 — This nation is continually carried
into captivity by the armies of the Muscovites, which are in garrison on the fron
tier in their neighbourhood; and by them their lands are conquered and laid
waste, and their houses burnt, and their men women and children taken and sold
at the meanest prices; not lor twenty or thirty pieces of gold, but, at the most,
for ten — a valuation thus lowly established since ancient times. As soon as they
are purchased, they are instantly baptized and made Christians.
To return :— We entered the church, and immediately proceeded to make an
'Ayiatrpog, according to the well-known custom : then our Lord the Patriarch
performed mass, after he had chrismed the Voivode, and his women, and his
principal officers. And now, at the time of Prone or Sermon we were in the
practice of mentioning, first the name of the Patriarch Nikon ; then we men
tioned the Emperor, the beloved of Christ, the source of orthodoxy, and the
fountain of generosity, Kniaz Alexius Michaelovitzi ; and the Empress, the devout
Princess, Kyria Maria Augusta, and their offspring, the Illustrious Alexius Efitzi.
The meaning of Fitzi with them is son of the Imperial consorts. After them we
mentioned the Voivode Nikita; who has not, however, any determined seat in the
church to mark his dignity, as the Voivodes of Wallachia and Moldavia have.
The Voivodes in this country all stand in the church among the people, having
no pride or pomp like the others we have mentioned ; but being full of humility,
wisdom, modesty, and reverence. The grandeur and pride which the former
affect might indeed, with propriety, be assumed by the latter, who owe obedience
only to their own sovereign ; whereas they, on the contrary, pay tribute and sub
mission to foreigners.
Over the north door of the Tabernacle of this church is a picture of Saint
Christophorus, the dog-faced, in the garb of a legionary martyr.
After we had left the church, at the end of the mass, the Voivode took leave
of our Lord the Patriarch : and we returned to our mansion, with the whole body
of troops inarching in two lines on each side of us, as before. Immediately after
wards, the Voivode sent us a princely banquet, larger, finer, and more abundant
than the first ; accompanied with flowing goblets of silver, and all served up by
the military people.
27G TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. X.
KYR EREMI A— CONVENT OF THE MOTHER OF GOD.
IN this city of Potiblia died the late Kyr Eremia, Metropolitan of Akar, the
Aleppian, who had been sent to this country by the late Patriarch Efthimius
(Euthymius ?) the Sciot. When he came to this place, he found here, at that time,
a tyrannical and cruel Voivode, whose inclinations were wholly to mischief and
corruption : and innumerable were the acts of oppression which this Voivode
exercised towards the Bishops and Priests; turning them back, without the know
ledge of the Emperor, to whom none communicated what was passing. Him
then, viz. the Metropolitan of Akar, the said Voivode would not permit to enter
Muscovy; but made a show of sending to inform the Emperor of his coming :
and as it was the winter season, and the messenger would necessarily be long on
his journey, the Voivode took an opportunity, during his supposed absence, of
asking the Metropolitan for a ( J^) bribe. Now, if the Metropolitan had known
at first that there would have been such a demand, he might have given him a
bribe, as others had done, and would have made his entry : but after this delay,
having nothing else in his possession, through his poverty, capable of satisfying
the Voivode's avarice, he made him a present of his silver-plated cross, which he
had brought from home ; — for no person, who has not actually travelled to this
country, can be acquainted with the expenses which are unavoidable from Mol
davia hither ; and more especially were they great at that time, when the country
of the Cossacks was still enslaved and governed by the Poles. No Monk or
Metropolitan could pass among them, but they would take from him a deal of
money and valuable presents, besides the ordinary dues. This extortion was
more particularly exercised by the accursed Jewish Governors, who had controul
over those entering or leaving these regions, and made them suffer by their mer
ciless tyranny. Another peculiar circumstance which militated against our
countryman was, that, as a simple Metropolitan, he had no name or estimation in
this country ; to which hundreds,, nay thousands of his class, flee for support and
alms, endeavouring, by begging there, to make good the expenses of their
tedious journey.
The messenger had now been gone some forty days, and there were yet no
tidings of him. The Metropolitan, having no means for his sustenance, nor any
resource for a supply but the sale of all his effects, by which he made a last effort
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
to maintain himself and his companions ; having to endure, at the same time, the
severity of the cold, which during the twelve last days of his life, between Christ
mas and the Immersion, was most bitter in frost and snow ; and having been for
some time of a weak habit of body, yielded at length to the violence of ill-treat
ment and starvation, and died a martyr, resigning his soul to the fruition of
Paradise and the compassion of his merciful God. He was carried with all reve
rence by a number of persons, and interred in a convent built of stone, which is
called after the Mother of God, and is an imperial foundation of considerable
extent ; where, on the second day afterwards, they buried, in like manner with
him, another Metropolitan of a town in some part of Greece, called also Akar
who died in similar circumstances of tyranny and oppression. This account of
the affair is perfectly correct ; having been given to us on the spot by the Heads
of Convents who were with the Metropolitan, waiting for the Emperor's answer;
but who afterwards turned back, seeing it was the only advisable course. For
the Voivodes, or military governors, in the reign of Michael, the father of the
present monarch, were tyrannical and oppressive, and, in this town of Potiblia,
abandoned to corruption, in consequence of that prince's being merciful and
averse to severity, and avaricious in shedding blood. But when the present
sovereign, whom God preserve ! a prince of the utmost personal courage and
vigour, ascended the throne, he put to death all those iniquitous Voivodes and
other tyrannical rulers, who in the time of his father were continually commit
ting acts of treason against the State, and set other new officers in their places,
who are in constant dread of him. For he loves to shed blood in execution of
public justice, which he upholds to the utmost; and as soon as lie heard what
had taken place in Potiblia, he immediately sent orders to displace the accursed
wretch we have been speaking of, and had him, together with his followers and
accomplices, brought before him in Moscow ; where, after inflicting on them
various and successive tortures, he at length put them to the bitterest of deaths,
as a warning to others not to act as they had done. Subsequently, he sent hither
the present Voivode Nikita, who was of the suite of the Patriarch, and is gentle,
merciful, and kind.
So much of the history of the Metropolitan ; to pray over whose sepulchre our
Lord the Patriarch resolved to visit, on this same day, the Convent of the Mother
of God, under the cupola of which edifice he was interred. We went thither
accordingly, in the coach.
The convent is situated on a high hill hanging over one side of the town, with
a very extensive prospect, and having below it, in front, the river we before
Oo
278
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
mentioned. The building is of stone ; and we entered it, accompanied by the
persons who came out, as usual, to give his Holiness a meeting. I observed
that this convent, like all others in the Russian empire, has an Iconostasis over
the gate, both withinside and without. We ascended to the holy church by a
high flight of steps ; and landed under a lofty cupola, which is surrounded by an
immense gallery, most delightfully commanding a view of the river and of the
adjoining country. Near to this church is another of small size, dedicated to
the Handkerchief of The Figure, or The Veronica. The bell-tower is round, and
handsomely built, close to the church. Besides the principal cupola we have men
tioned, there are others of elegant structure all round the edifice. The Iconostasis
is entirely of small ancient pictures, of exalted workmanship, exciting the admira
tion of the beholder. This church possesses a picture of Our Lady, of very
large dimensions, which performs miracles ; and upon it are hung chains and
necklaces of gold and silver and fine pearls. Near it is another, resembling it,
of great antiquity, which they informed us was in a dwelling-house that had been
deserted and had become a heap of ruins. In these circumstances, the Divine
Mother appeared and declared herself to a gentleman of high rank, three times
in one night ; and he having dug for her where she shewed herself, brought her
out, and placed her in this convent. A great assembly was gathered together on
that occasion, and she performed then, and still performs, many miracles; and
the people have great faith in her. Here is seen, as it ever is in all their churches,
the picture of the Trinity, and the Table, and the Patriarch Abraham, such as
we have heretofore described. Under this church are many vaults and places
of sepulture ; and also the refectory of the convent,, witli a chapel again within
that, dedicated to St. Anthony.
The description of their cemeteries in this country is as that of a handsome
dwelling-house. They are built of stone, and have vaulted roofs. Within are
niches ; in which are placed wax-lights, on the mornings of Sundays and Festivals.
In the above-mentioned church we performed the Vespers, and afterwards
went down to where the tomb is situated of the late Metropolitan Eremia, ac
companied by the Priests and Deacons in their robes, and carrying torches and
thuribles in their hands. Here we performed a grand funeral service for the
deceased ; and our Lord the Patriarch recited over him the Prayers of Absolution
and Forgiveness ; after we had deluged the earth with our tears, with much
weeping, principally in regard to our own condition ; all of us being strangers, and
none knowing how it might happen to be with us hereafter ; for He who ruled
for him had all the power of ruling for us ; and who could tell when our return
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. -2?D
would be, and where our travels would end. A stranger will ever be treated as
a stranger, though he were even the Great Alexander. ' O God ! grant us
pardon of our sins before death, and that we breathe forth our last in the true
faith ! () God ! be indulgent and merciful to the stranger sojourning in a foreign
land ! Thou art the most gracious of the bountiful ; and Thou hast all power to
restore the traveller to his home."
Thus we offered up our prayers : and afterwards we ascended to the balcony
aloft, whence we amused ourselves with viewing the passage of the peasantry over
the river to this side. In the morning early they assemble their nocks; and sallying
forth from their cottages, they ford the river with their cattle, to pasture them
on the further side. The oxen, we remarked, in this country, from Potiblia to
Moscow, are small. Here the herdsman tends the cows and sheep, the goats
and swine and horses, all together; such being their custom; and an excellent
method it is ! whereas in the country of the Cossacks each grazier is confined
to one species of cattle. Nothing raised our wonder so much as to see the hogs
driven in a herd to the pasture. Afterwards we returned to our mansion, having
exchanged adieux with the Monks.
SP:CT. XT.
MUSCOVY.— TEA VELL IN(!.— EXCHANGE.— A OMISSION OF FOREIGNERS.
IT may be noted, that from this city of Potiblia to Moscow the capital the
distance is seven hundred versts, as we were informed : the verst, in the Mus
covite language, signifies a Turkish mile*, and measures three thousand ells,
which is the length also of our miles in Syria. The same distance, viz. from
this place to Mosco\v, is computed at one hundred and forty great Cossack
miles, and is about equal to that between Wallachia and Potiblia, which is
usually reckoned half way. In this country of Muscovy they everywhere
* " A verst is equal to about three-quarters of an English mile; and the stages in Russia are, in
general, from twenty to thirty versts in length ; but in some more uncultivated parts of the empire, they
are nearly forty. At each station is an agent of the Post-office, who registers the passports of travellers,
and gives orders for the necessary supply of horses ; and a head person among the boors, called the
Starost, or " PMer," who sees the orders executed. On the road from Petersburg/I to Moscow the
horses are furnished by peasants, who, besides the allowance paid by travellers, enjoy certain privileges,
such as freedom from taxes, &c. In other parts of the country, where fewer horses arc required, the
Posting-establishment is farmed out to the lowest bidder, who is obliged to provide a guarantee that
he will pay the rent to Government, and supply the necessary number of horses."
Dr. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia, p. 11.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
travel by the verst ; and though a place be distant considerably more or less than
one., they make no subdivision,, but always say such a place is a verst, or two,
or twenty off', or fifty or a hundred, £c.: and this regulation, of having one
uniform measure throughout the empire, appears to me to be truly admirable.
In winter, during the frost, they travel in sledges drawn by horses, with great
speed — about one hundred versts in a day.
The medium of commerce in this country of Moscow are the piastres, coined by
the Emperor, which they call copecks, fifty of them being equal to the value of
a Spanish dollar. From all the countries where the various kinds of dollars are
current, they are brought hither, and are broken up at the mint and coined
into copecks ; and no one is allowed to pass a whole dollar without changing
it into copecks : though the transaction should be for a thousand dollars' worth,
the payment must be made in copecks, for the sake of the immense profit which
thence accrues to the imperial treasury. Thus all their plate and vases, and
the silver ornaments of their arms, and of their images, are made from the
Spanish dollar, and from the Lion or Venetian dollars; which are cheap, as it
occasionally happens that three Venetian may be obtained for two Spanish.
The Dog dollars they are not acquainted with, these being attended with loss.
But the gold coins of every country are received among them, except the
Turkish dinars, which they dislike. Their own dinars they call Roublies. All
their sales and purchases are made in copecks ; and they speak of twenty
altons, or a hundred, or a thousand ; meaning in their language, by the word
alton, a sum or ideal coin of three copecks.
On the following Tuesday, the Voivode came to pay a farewell visit to our
Lord the Patriarch; who, at the parting, gave to him, and for his wife and
attendants, a 2vy%agr]Ttzov, or Paper of Absolution. The Voivode then ap
pointed to go with us a Pristabos, Conakji, or Mehmandar, for the road, to
lead the way, and prepare us lodgings. And now having departed, he sent us
copecks of maintenance, for each of us by name, for fourteen days' journey,, on
our road to Moscow, to be distributed among us day by day: for in this
country they are accustomed to give money and not provisions ; and each person
who receives their bounty is left to eat and drink as he pleases, from his pen
sion. It is not here as in Moldavia and Wallachia, where they settle a daily
allowance of meat and drink : so far from it, that along the whole road from
Potiblia to Moscow not a single person gave us a cake of bread, either in the
towns or villages, because such is not their custom. The pension, in lieu of
provisions, was for our Lord the Patriarch twenty-five copecks daily; for the
TKAVKLS OF MACAIUL'S.
Archimandrite, ten ; for the Dikaios the Protosyngelos, seven, and for the
Archdeacon, seven; for the Khazindar, or treasurer, six ; for the Kellarios, or
butler, six ; for the second butler, five ; for the Dragoman, four ; and for the
eleven Khidmatgars, or footmen, each three copecks a-day. The Voivode
sent us, moreover, an immense quantity of provisions for the road, consisting of
bread, fish dried and drest, barrels of spirits and beer and mead, etc.; and
having all the vodvods or carriages brought together, we divided our hi'wa^e
among them.
It may be recorded in this place, that in consequence of the many difficulties
that are interposed here in Potiblia to the admission of the Heads of the Clergy
and of Convents, and to that of ordinary Monks into the interior, which fre
quently extinguish in them all hopes of success by the ordinary means, they
often have recourse to the following method. They say to the Voivoda, " We
enter in the name of the Sovereign ; " and he instantly expedites them into the
interior without a word. The meaning of " entering in the name of the
sovereign" is, that they shall stand in his name, and eat from his bounty, for the
length of their lives, devoting themselves to the perpetual task of praying for
him ; and they are called thenceforward by a name answering to Doaji, or Sup-
plicator : but there is no longer any liberty allowed them of going out of the
country ; this becomes impossible. The Emperor and his courtiers have much
regard for those who use this form of words, and honour them to the utmost.
This contrivance has been lately invented by the Greeks.
About two years ago, there came to this city of Potiblia the Chief of the Bishops
of Cyprus, who, to promote his own greatness, gave out that he was a Patriarch.
The Voivode detained him, until he had sent to give notice of his arrival to the
Council of State ; from which an order was instantly returned, that he should be
sent back. They said, " For the space of five hundred years, from the period
that we became Christians until now, it never has been heard among us that
there existed in the world more than four Patriarchs — the Antiochian, Alexan
drian, Constantinopolitan, and Jerusalemian, to whom afterwards, by the per
mission of all four, w<e added a fifth, by making a Patriarch of our own, to hold
us stead of the Pope of Rome." On this, the reverend ecclesiastic sent to apo
logise to them, and to confess his error, submitting to be regarded as even less
than a Chief of Bishops ; and they changed their aversion into pity towards him,
and gave him permission to enter. Afterwards, on quitting Moscow, he died on
his journey, in some part of the empire1.
In like manner it happened when we were arriving in Moldavia. We were then
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
preceded by the Chief of the Bishops of Ochrizon, (forte Euchariton), a city
founded by the Emperor Justinianus, whose banner was green. He also made
his way to Potiblia ; and putting forth the same pretensions as the other we
have mentioned, was treated with like disdain, until he sent to make his excuses
and to beg pardon for his error : after which he was suffered both to enter and to
retire, to go in and out.
When we were in Wallachia, there appeared there a certain Kyr Gabriel, Chief
of the Bishops of the province of Servia, whose see is a city, which is the resi
dence of a Pasha, and is called Ibakio. This prelate was formerly under the
jurisdiction of the chief Bishop of Ochrizon ; but having asserted his independence,
lie now pays a yearly tribute to the Bostanji Bashi. He, too, pretended that he
was a Patriarch, in all pomp and majesty ; and we wrangled much with him and
his disciples on this score. We said to them : " At the time that the see of Antioch
was instituted for Peter the Apostle, the see of Alexandria for Mark, that of Con
stantinople for John the Evangelist and Andrew, and that of Jerusalem for James
the brother of the Lord, for which of the Apostles was your Patriarchate insti
tuted ?" They returned us no answer. They had been informing us that their
country of Servia had been converted to Christianity about live hundred years
ago, after having persevered so long in the worship of idols and false gods ; and
that subsequently the Cossacks and Muscovites, and all of them, became
Christians. This happened in the reign of Basil the Macedonian, on whom God
be merciful ! Amen.
From some reliques in the possession of this prelate we received a blessing ;
viz. from a leg of St. Marina, in admirable preservation, and of the size of a little
girl's leg ; from a bone of St. Chrysostom, and another of St. Gregory Theologus;
from a portion of St. George, a bone of St. Sophronia, some blood of Anastasius
the Persian, and some of Flasius, bishop of Sebastia.
This same prelate wrent before us from Wallachia, and travelled in the direc
tion of Moscow, about the middle of the Great Lent, in the season of frost
and snow, and heavy cold rains of indescribable severity. In such weather,
through deluging showers and deep mud, in the days of the ju.1^ which is the
roughest time of the year in this climate,, he arrived at Potiblia in great glory and
magnificence, with led horses, with splendid saddles, silver harness and armour,
and flowing bridles : (God humbles the proud, and debases the haughty:) and now
again he presumed to call himself a Patriarch ; and sent word of his arrival, as
such, at Potiblia, to the Patriarch at Moscow and the Emperor's Lieutenant ; for
the Emperor himself was absent on an expedition. In the mean time he bribed
TRAVELS OF MACAKIUS.
the Voivode, whom we formerly mentioned, with a sum of dircms, and entered
into the interior before any answer came to his message. Not long afterwards
he was met by the messenger on the road, bringing with him a rescript, in which it
was ordered that the prelate should be made to leave the country ; for that a sixth
Patriarch was an impossibility. He was accordingly forced to return, a distance
of three days' journey. Then he had recourse to entreaties; and at length pre
vailed on them to let him send a Letter to the Patriarch, in which he humbled
himself, and craved pardon for his error, and declared that he came to enter in
the name of the Sovereign : and on the receipt of this Letter they sent an order
for his re-admission in this form. Now observe this elevation and grandeur, and
the consequent fall and debasement. For the Muscovites are celebrated for
their knowledge and philosophy, their subtlety, ingenuity, and perspicacity,
and for the profound questions with which they puzzle the learned, and put
them to the blush. God grant our Lord the Patriarch His assistance to compete
with them, and to us also ; and to all of us understanding and wisdom, that we
mav stand among them in honour and esteem ! Amen.
2S4 TRAVELS OF MACARIIS.
BOOK VI
MUSCOVY.
SECT. I.
l>0 77 n L I A. —IMA DTK fXA.—TA Ji TA R C 'A PTIl ' KS.
WE took our departure from Potiblia on the morning of the aforesaid Monday
the twenty-fourth day of Tamoz. The whole body of troops in garrison marched
fore us, in grand procession ; and we were conducted by them and the prin-
the Voivode to a considerable distance from the town, until our
Lord the Patriarch stopped them ; then they came all of them, and kissed his
r and his right hand, and returned. And now the Pristabos took the lead ; and
i his carriage was placed the cross and spear, forming the crosier; for it is only in
country of the Cossacks that it is the custom for the prelate always to carry it
m his hand. We travelled about twenty versts, or four great miles, through an
immense forest, very much on the ascent, and passed a number of villages and
lakes ; until we came in the evening to a small town, by name Imadikina, having
a church by the road-side, dedicated to St. Nicolas. Outside this town we
passed the night.
I will here remark, that from Potiblia, to Moscow the capital, the ascent is
very great; for we never ceased climbing, by night and by day, over large hills:
at the same time our path was beset by a thick forest of trees, which, by its
density, "concealed from us the sun and sky; and every day we came among a
different kind of plantation. One day we saw nothing but the J^ ; another,
we were surrounded by the (^) poplar, both of the wild and the Persian kind'
all of an equal size and at equal distances, as though it were a grove formed by
some noble artist. Another day we found ourselves in the midst of tall Q,!)
pines; the next, our view was bounded on all sides by the ( £) fir, which Re
sembles the pine, and of which they make the masts of ships : it is a singularly
beautiful tree.
As to the steepness and narrowness of these roads, God Almighty alone
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 285
knows what they are ! From our own country hitherward, we had certainly
passed over a long line of road ; but any thing like the declivity and roughness
of these we had never witnessed. To travel on them was a hardship sufficient
to turn the hair of young men grey: and scarcely could the traveller have the
guide of his own eye-sight to facilitate his progress ; for the forest trees were
everywhere so thick, that the sun-heams were unable to penetrate through them
to the surface of the ground. During the whole of these months ofTamoz and
Al), also, we were never free from rain: the roads were consequently deluged
with water, and, where not swept by mountain torrents or washed by over
flowing rivers, presented a depth of mud that was almost impassable. Then,
here and there a tree would be found fallen across these narrow defiles, which,
from its bulk, no single man could cut through or remove; and when the cart or
coach came to it, its wheels would be raised over it, and then would fall with
such a shock that our entrails were lacerated within us : so that when, late in the
evening, we arrived at length at our destined station, we were nearly dead with
fatigue ; for there was no possibility of getting over the road with ordinary ease,
whether the traveller was in a carriage, or on horseback, or on foot.
From Potiblia to Moscow we had the country of the Tartars on our right, at
the distance of a month's journey. On our left was that part of their country
which yet remains to the Poles, including the province of Smolensko : the
distance I did not ascertain.
And now we were like persons winding their way through a narrow pass
between hanging rocks ; for such is the nature of the passage on this side to the
city of cities, the capital of the empire : but beyond it, innerward, the country is
wide and open to a vast extent ; and the traveller may range on either hand for
four years without meeting a boundary, as we shall distinctly shew hereafter.
Before the Emperor went forth on his expedition, he appointed a Voivoda, by
name Vasili, but better known by that of Sharranmonz, to the command of the
Tartar frontier, with an army of one hundred thousand men, to repress the move
ments of the Tartars, and to hinder them from marching out, either to assist the
Poles, or to make incursions into his territory. As soon as the Tartars caught
the sound of the name of this Sharranmonz, they dispersed. On the frontier of
the Tartar country, which we have mentioned as being on our right hand, this
present Emperor, whom God preserve ! has lately built thirty castles or forts, be
sides some thousands of towers ; and whereas formerly the Tartars used to come
hither, which is a month's journey, in five or six days, on a sudden, in the season
of the great cold and frost, and having made their capture of prisoners and
PP
286 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
booty used as suddenly to retreat, now the Muscovites, on the contrary, carry
them into captivity. Stationed on the tops of their castles, they look down
upon the paths in their vicinity, by which the Tartars must pass ; and no sooner
have they descried any travellers, than some of them descend, and, mounting
their horses, place themselves in ambuscade at some distance from the road :
thence, on the approach of the Tartars, they rush upon them ; and having bound
them in manacles, whether they be men or women, boys or girls, they take them
off to Moscow, and sell them in the slave-market (^,^1 jy,) for ten piastres, or
fifteen, and sometimes for twenty. Hence it is that every rich matron has fifty
or sixty Tartar women or girls in her household ; and every gentleman of fortune
owns seventy or eighty males. But they do not leave them in the state in which
they buy them : they instantly make them Christians, whether willing to become
so or not, and baptize them with or against their consent. Afterwards, if they
see them well conducted, and favourably inclined to their new religion, they
marry them to some of their relations, and on their children bestow the finest
names. In many of them we remarked a degree of devotion and humility not
to be found among the choicest native Christians ; and they had learnt the prin
ciples and the observances of our religion with the utmost truth and accuracy.
SECT. II.
KA ROBA.—BABOK.— BAROTIKI.—IZMINIKOV.—HHIFSHKA.
To return to the narrative of our journey. — We arose early on Tuesday
morning ; and arrived by dawn of day at a large village with handsome fortifica
tions and a lake of water, called Karoba. Afterwards we entered an immense
forest ; and passed another town, named Bdbok, containing a church dedicated to
Saint Nicolas. Then we came to another town with a large lake, the name of
which was Earotiki. Having passed a long wooden bridge built over the waters
and sunk trenches, and having wound through an extensive copse, we arrived at
a town, the name of which is Izmininikov ; where we slept, after a day's journey
of eighty versts, or sixteen great miles. This speed was owing to the circumstance
of our being drawn by the Government horses, the drivers of which used to fly with
them, that they might quickly return to their homes : each day they fed them twice
or thrice with barley, carrying with them as much provender as sufficed both for
going and returning. Early next morning we arose, and came by day-break to
two very large lakes ; the one confined within high mounds, like the Lake of
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 287
Emessa, and overflowing into the other below. Thence we proceeded a distance
of ten vcrsts, or two miles ; and came to a large town with a magnificent castle,
near a large river and lake, called ti/iifshka. Here we alighted, in front of the
houses which form the station for the Government horses ; and they instantly
changed all our horses and carriages for others, and the former returned. Then
Constantine Michaelovitz, the Voivode of the city, sent to our Lord the Patri
arch,, by his servants,, a present of different kinds of bread, and fresh and dried
fish of various kinds, and liquors, consisting of spirits, &c.; and thus said his
delegate at the head of them : " The Voivode, £c., beats his head on the ground
before thy Holiness, and makes thee an offering of this bread and salt." After
wards the Voivode came in person, attended by a large body of troops, and,
kneeling to our Lord the Patriarch, presented to him his best wishes with much
cordiality. He was a man advanced in years, of a noble and venerable aspect ;
as indeed were all the Voivodes. Then he sat down, and recited a number of
histories relating to their country, to which it is not every one that would give
credence. He added a detailed account of the war in which the Emperor was
actively engaged.
I should remark concerning this officer, that as among the whole tribe of Frank
religionists there is found a great love for the Pope and a great confidence in his
authority, so we saw and heard, as well in him as in all the other Voivodas and
in the rest of the Grandees, in the entire body of the Clergy, and in the whole
laity of the Muscovite people, a continual manifestation of prayer for the pro
sperity of their Patriarch — of praise of his good qualities — of much gratitude for
his bounty — and of the most faithful reliance on his paternal conduct. The
mention of him is always in their mouths,, so that one would be inclined to think
they love him nearly as much as they do Christ himself. They all fear him ; and
were ever entreating our Lord the Patriarch, that when he should come into his
society at Court, he would be constant in laying before him their grateful duties.
As for the Emperor,, it is impossible to conceive the love that is borne to him,
both by great and small.
In addition to his preceding civilities, the Voivode now sent for a great quan
tity of liquor, both of wine and spirits, &c., and forced our Lord the Patriarch to
drink much, and us also, though we had not yet broken our fast : at length we
were relieved by one of his servants coming round with a tray of cucumbers,, fol
lowed by another with a tray of radishes, which they distributed to us IjU. The
first health that was given was the Patriarch's ; which they drank standing, after a
prayer had been uttered for his spiritual welfare. Then they drank to the
-288 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Emperor and his Ministers : and after the Voivode had multiplied his demon
strations of kindness in our regard, hedeparted.
We immediately arose, and passed along the road through the middle of the
fort, which is an erection of extreme magnificence, with high octagonal towers
mounted with large guns in rows above each other. It is well entrenched with
wide and deep moats, closely lined with wooden piles, and surmounted with walls
of wood with double bastions. We were struck with admiration at this method
of building and fortifying castles,, which appear stronger than others we have
seen built of stone ; but these are the creation of a mighty empire, and are con
tinually in the progress of gradual improvement.
Then we entered a second fort, with walls, towers, and trenches as before :
and then a third, larger and stronger by nature and art than either of the other
two ; in which is a secret door, whence they descend to the great river below, to
draw water : for this castle is situated on the top of a high hill.
Outside the gate, our Lord the Patriarch alighted from his coach, at the
moment that there came forth to meet him all the Priests and Deacons, with
their thuribles and splendid princely copes, and their ancient images adorned
with pearls,, and their golden crosses. The Voivode walked with us until they
had taken us up to their high church, which appears as it were hanging on a
double foundation, and is dedicated to The Assumption of Our Lady. All round
it is a gallery or large balcony, for the women to stand in ; and it has three
doors, as all their churches usually have. Here we halted until our Lord the
Patriarch had sprinkled the assembled multitude with the holy water ; and after
that we went out again. All this time the bells of all the churches within these
forts were ringing.
The names of the churches are these : within this third fort are two others,
besides that already mentioned ; the one dedicated in the name of Our Lady,
called nXarur^a, the other in the name of St. Nicolas. Within the other forts,
and outside of them, are seven more churches, so that they are in all ten.
Among them is one dedicated by the title of The Ascension ; another by that of
The Resurrection ; one in commemoration of the Entry of Christ into the Temple ;
another of the Entry of Our Lady into the Temple : the rest of the names are,
St. Michael, St. Parasceve, and St. Nicolas.
Then the Voivode exchanged adieux with our Lord the Patriarch outside the
gates of the castle ; but the Clergy continued to attend us to a considerable
distance.
As we went forth on this side, we observed on the slopes of the trenches an
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 289
admirable contrivance for defence, consisting of sharp wooden pikes crossing one
another, which have the effect of preventing even the approach of men. We
observed also the high round towers ; and the large river, before mentioned, wind
ing round the hill on which the castle stands. On arriving at the extreme
outside of the city, we there found two wooden walls for a defence against the
assault of cavalry. Thence we descended by a long and rough declivity, until
we came to a wooden bridge, which we traversed for about the space of an
hour's journey ; as it is carried over a large body of water, and over fortifications,
and lastly over a great length of low swampy heath. Afterwards we proceeded
a distance of thirty versts, or six miles, through a forest of pine and other trees ;
and passed a number of villages, and many waters and bridges. In this forest
we halted for the night.
SECT. III.
ZAKHAROBO.— AGRICULTURE AND HARVESTS.
EARLY on the morning of the next day, which was the festival of St. Pante-
leemon, we arose, and passed a large town called Zakharobo ; where are five or six
lakes banked up in such a manner, that the water flows down successively from
the higher to the lower, till it reaches the lowest. At this season we saw them
ploughing, an operation which they perform with a single horse ; for their oxen
are too small for such labour ; so small indeed, that they scarcely equal the
calves in our country, as we have already mentioned : and this is in consequence
of the extreme coldness of the climate, which does not allow this animal to attain
strength sufficient for the plough. It is here only useful in furnishing milk and
cheese, which it does both winter and summer.
The plough used in this country is always provided with two wheels, which
support the share that divides the mould ; and near to the share, and at right
angles with it, is a blade of iron, that mines into the ground, and cuts asunder
the roots of grass and other plants remaining in the ground. We saw other cul
tivators, who had fastened behind the horse, in the same manner as the plough,
a kind of trellis, or cage-like hurdle, square, having one side planted with a sort
of long wooden nails ; and this they were using as an instrument to break the
mould turned up by the plough ; and with so much effect, that the surface of the
ground was made as smooth as the palm of one's hand. The contrivance of
these machines is admirable, and very much lightens the labour of cultivation.
In Moldavia and Wallachia, and the country of the Cossacks, we saw them
290 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
ploughing with five or six yoke of oxen, attended by five or six men on foot ;
and even with this force they were much distressed to accomplish their task.
But the wheels are an indispensable improvement.
We saw them also, in this country of Moscow, cutting down the woods and
after digging the ground, instantly sowing it, without further preparation, in con
sequence of the abundance and depth of the soil.
As to the quality of their crops in this country, I may observe, that they
have a multiplicity of different kinds ; but the most wonderful circumstance is,
that they sow the seed at this season of the year, and it remains in the ground
about nine months, until the snow is thawed, at the end of the month Adar.
The first crop is wheat, which is of two kinds : the one has a bearded ear, the
other is without a beard. On these lands the strength of this crop is pro
digious, and it rises to the height of near four ells. They sow it to a great
amount, and it is reckoned their summer crop ; but we were at the end of the
month Tamoz, and it had not yet shot an ear, still remaining as green as
emerald, in consequence of the abundant rains, which are not interrupted even
in the summer season. Another crop is called (l^j) rye, a species of wheat, to
which we give the name aJ'y/', which the ^^ weed out from the true wheat.
It is wild wheat, and the bread which they make of it here is black. This they
like better than the white ; and when the Voivodes used to send presents to
our Lord the Patriarch, they always presented this black bread first, by reason
of the esteem in which it is held among them; and afterwards the white. The
crop of this grain is very tall, and approaches the height of the wheat crop,
being of about three ells; so that animals no taller than the horse are com
pletely hidden amongst it. In the country of the Cossacks blessed be the
Creator for the abundance of this crop! There we walked in fields covered with
it, to the extent of two or three hours' journey in length and breadth, like to a
waving sea. This rye they malt and steep in water, and boil it into spirits,
together with the flower which we call e^Ju!! ^, and they Ichmil or Chmiel,
after the hero of that name, who plants it much. Hence it is that spirits are
cheap in the country of the Cossacks, and as abundant as water : but here in
Muscovy they are very dear; the madrah (s^'l) in their language, that is, a
measure of ten okas, being sold for a ducat and more.
The third crop is barley: the fourth, ^Uy: ; this is a very large grain, which
is given to the cattle, which it strengthens and fattens, without heating them
* The nearest interpretation which I find is in Johnson's Arabic and Persian Dictionary- :— ^ •
" A kind of tare or darnel growing amongst wheat, having a black grain, which causes inebriety and
madness."
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 291
as barley does. The fifth crop is ^IjU in their language : it resembles
and they cook it in the place of (^j^) lentils. What a quantity of it we
ate without oil, as a remedy for the cholic! The sixth crop is the ^4,
which is very abundant ; and its fruit is in distinct grains, resembling pearls.
The seventh is like the red hashishah, with many sprigs and a double white
flower, called, in the Russian language, khrishka : its produce is similar to the
grain of the ^=»-*>, but white and soft, and is employed for puddings, instead of
rice, for which they have a dislike. The eighth is a yellow blossom, resembling
the rape-flower : of this they boil the leaves, and eat them. The ninth is a
blue flower; and its fruit a black grain, which they mix among the wheat, and
grind them together : this gives a sweet taste to the bread, and improves its
whiteness. The name given to it in the Wallachian language is lakina : in
Greek it is called yoyyvXq (.^yoyO The tenth is hemp, which they have in
great abundance: from the grain they make oil; from the stalk, wool for
shirts and ropes. The eleventh is flax, which is also very plentiful, and bears
a blue flower : the fibre of this plant they use for the manufacture of shirts
and other garments, which are worked up by the women ; and in these parts
of Muscovy this material is very fine, and extremely cheap : this crop rises to a
great height. The twelfth crop is that ^ j which they sow in our country
among the cucumber-beds, and is used in making boza, after parching ; it thus
forms a beverage deliciously sweet like milk, particularly in the country of the
Cossacks : they call it in Greek, 'A^a/3^0 <rir^i, or Arabian wheat.
And here, Reader, you might see, at the latter part of the harvest among
this people, a resemblance of the days of spring, about the festival of the
Annunciation with us : near you, a field of rye, ripe and yellow; further off, a
crop of wheat still green : on one side, a field of the largest dimensions covered
with white blossoms; on the other, a similar space blooming with yellow:
beyond that, a field of blue flowers, &c., a delight to every beholder.
We remarked that the species of bean called Jy, the vetch called (ja^t and
the lentils, are not at all known in this country : neither is straw any where
known in these parts ; for they have no (j^) barns for threshing their corn, as
we have in our country. Here they set up a long pole in the middle of a field,
and throw down the corn-sheaves around it : to this pole they then tie a couple
of horses, which at their several lengths go round, treading and stamping on
thecorn. The horses are afterwards turned in the contrary direction, and all the
grain is eventually trodden out. They never tread their corn till it is at least
two years old.
292 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
We had an opportunity of witnessing their harvest this season ; and saw how
they tied their corn in sheaves, which they afterwards set up across each other
in heaps, and lastly carry home in wagons : then they place them one upon
another ; and form them into regular piles, like houses, turning the ear inwards :
the top they cover with planks of wood. In this manner their crops are laid up,
to endure both the winter and the summer season.
The provender for their cattle consists entirely of dry grass, which they cut in
summer ; preserving it on its own ground, as a provision for the winter.
As to the machinery and instruments which they employ in gathering their
harvest — their scythes — and their rakes, which they use like fingers to gather up
their corn and hay — I must express my utmost admiration of them. At the same
time, the security for life and property in all these countries, except Moldavia, is
extreme.
SECT. IV.
HORODISH.— ARCHITECTURE AND MANUFACTURES.— JANKA.— HABITS.
THEN we crossed a large river, by name Nadros, which in the spring season is
passed in boats ; but we passed over it by an immense bridge of vast length,
making a distant journey of itself. The number of planks and beams of timber
on the back of it, reckoning only those of large size which are laid across and
lengthwise from the beginning of the bridge to the end, are two thousand four
hundred and forty-one, according to the computation we made of them ; and
they are all fastened by wooden joints, without nails.
I will here remark, that in all the woods, from the further end of Wallachia,
through Moldavia, and the Country of the Cossacks, to the inmost province of
Muscovy, there is found a great quantity of a species of tree resembling the <j*ju*
both in shape and leaf, only it is taller. We used to see it in blossom in the
months of Haziran and Tamoz, with a beautiful flower of a fragrant smell which
spreads to a great distance : it is all white LxJv^, and they call it the Tree of the
jy&. From this tree they strip the thick outward bark, and make of it coverings
for their wagons and cottages, to keep out the rain and snow, its breadth being
more than three ells : so also they make of it hoops for their wagons, boxes,
The Mays is thus interpreted in Johnson's Arabic and Persian Dictionary : — "A large tree,
of which they make pack-saddles. A large kind of vine, also of grapes."
TRAVELS OF MA CART US. 293
milk-pails, measures, and sieves ; and their wagon-wheels, £c. : and of its roots
they twine pack-saddles for their horses, cart-chains, &c. Of the fine inner bark
they manufacture here in Muscovy ropes for ships, and other cordage ; and all
their twine is made of it, which they so combine as to frame milk-pails, &c. ; and
with it they also manufacture sieves, fish-nets, horse-fetters, and beautiful mats
resembling those of Egypt*. But in consequence of the almost exclusive use
of this and other wood in the structure of their habitations, and the constant
fires which are maintained in them, the population of these regions is always
covered with soot towards the evening, and is a prey to the nightly visits of the
most melancholy dread of firef, the ravages of which insidious element are
never wholly suspended among them. In Wallachia and Moldavia, on the
occurrence of a conflagration, a man used to strike the great bell on the one side
only, drawing forth a most harsh and alarming sound ; and this was a signal for
the assemblage of the people, to quench the fire, or to save themselves by
flight : but here in Muscovy they are accustomed to ring a bell over the gate of
the city, the sound of which, in itself, is not unpleasant. As for ourselves, we
were in a continual tremble of apprehension.
Then we entered a forest of pine-trees, and of the • y, J of which they make
ship masts : and of this tree we henceforward sawr no end, until we arrived close
to Moscow. All the frames of their houses, and all their wood-works, are of this
tree, in consequence of its great abundance. 'In regard to the Persian Qj±0
poplar-tree, you would suppose no other than that it had been sown in rows,
with even regularity, to form groves and gardens, and all in one day ; and our
praise and thanksgiving were offered to the Almighty, at the sight of His mag
nificence in the height of the fir and the ^.y, and the straightness of their
form, in the beauty of the; Persian poplar, and the exact symmetry of its sylvan
growth. And now our road was in most parts narrower than we had yet found
it ; being wide enough only for one horse, and presenting an immense gully or
* The Manuscript adds, c^Al
-J- " At length we procured admittance into one of the most wretched cabins we ever recollect to have
visited ; the inmates of which had not tasted milk or animal food for upwards of a year, but subsisted
entirely on Tchi, or soup made of sour cabbages ; a dish of which the Russians in general are
exceedingly fond. In the same room, common both to the rational and irrational members of the
family, we erected our portable beds with all possible dispatch, in order to relieve our minds from the
alarming- apprehensions of fire unavoidably forced upon them by the seeming- indifference with which
the peasant's wife every now and then made sparks fly from a flaming- brand of wood, the only sub
stitute she had for a candle." — DR. HENDERSON'S Travels In Russia, p. 139.
+ In the Persian Dictionary, the interpretation of -.y. is, " A tree which, when one branch is lopped
off, throws out several new ones."
QQ
TRAVELS OP MACARIUS.
ravine. At length we came into a town having near it a lake of water, and called
llorodisli ; in the neighbourhood of which is a handsome and strong castle. By
the side of the road is a church dedicated to the Saints Cosmas and Damian.
Here, reader,, stop, to observe the vast magnitude and impregnable strength
of this country ; into which you can effect no entrance, but through the midst of
cities and castles and boroughs ; wherein you are sure to be confined to some
narrow pass over a bridge laid across a lake, no other path being suffered to
exist. No spy can gain admittance here by any means or contrivance, not even
should lie appear in the shape of a native of the country. This extreme vigi
lance in the government of the nation is remarkable.
Then we proceeded the distance of thirty versts further, that is, six miles;
and came in the afternoon to a small town, which they were building new, by
name Jatika : but we slept far away from it, in the fields, for the sake of pasturing
our cattle.
As to the nature of the building of the dwelling-houses in this country of
Moscow, it may be observed, that they are all constructed of the wood of the
^£; the planks of which are bound or joisted together to a considerable height,
and are then covered with a sloping roof; on which no expense is spared. All
the houses of these northern countries, from Wallachia to Moscow, have sloping
roofs made of boards ; and this is contrived in consequence of the great falls of
snow, that it may not lodge on them. Every house is sure to be furnished with
chimnies and ovens.
In the country of the Cossacks the Jews* used formerly, during the govern
ment of the Poles, to build within their houses a kind of khans or hotels, of
wood, consisting of wide and lofty apartments, which they designed for travellers
in the winter-season ; that they might make their sordid gains by them, in selling
them hay for their cattle, in providing them with meat and drink, and in letting
to them their lodgings though but for the short space of an hour ; by dealing
likewise in spirits and liquors of all kinds, and in every thing else that might be
wanted. But in this country of Moscow there exists no institution of that kind.
Here travellers put up in the private houses : and for this reason they appoint
to a Patriarch, or any other stranger of rank, a Bristabos, Conakji, or Mehman-
dar, to prepare his billet. When we travelled in the summer, we never used to
" At Kamenetz it was some time before we procured lodgings ; but at length succeeded, with the
assistance of some Jews, who are always forward to offer their services on these occasions, and are
generally hired by travellers under the honourable appellation of factors; which word, however, as
thus applied, signifies agents capable of executing any commission, whatever may be its nature or
demerit, provided they be remunerated for their trouble." — DR. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 295
alight but outside the towns, for the purpose of feeding our cattle : and dreadful
were our sufferings, from the heavy falls of rain !
I will here remark, that the women in this country are handsomely shaped,
and extremely beautiful : and their children are like those of the Franks, but of
a still ruddier complexion. The head-dress of the peasant-women is a small
cap, rolled up at the edges, and fringed with wool : but, in the large towns and
cities, over this cap the females wear a calpack of beautiful black fur, under
which they hide their hair entirely, leaving the neck bare without any covering.
The young girls generally, throughout the country, wear on their heads a kind
of fur-hat, with the rims rolled up and very high. The dress of the wives of
the Grandees is a calpack of cloth of gold in folds, or velvet, or sable fur, &c.
the hair of which is frequently a span long, and is exceeding beautiful. The
dress of the men is of black or brown serge or woollen cloth, composed of
several parts sewed together to the exact size of the person, neither more nor
less ; and it is always set with buttons and raised straps, which are buttoned
together from top to bottom. The same apparatus is also on their ey'-ioiu.
Their hair they cut only once in the year ; but they keep it very neat, and
exceedingly well combed, throughout its whole length. On the contrary, from
the further end of Wallachia to the furthest boundary of the Cossack country,
the inhabitants are in the constant habit of shaving their heads, leaving only
above the eyes a kind of iJaJLS. of hair, which falls down over them. The
Cossacks, moreover, all shave their beards, with the exception of a small part,
and of the mustaches, which they wear long and thick ; and this is the meaning
of their name. But in this country of Moscow there is no such custom at all
as that of shaving the beard, either among the old or the young; nor at any
stage of life, from boyhood to old age. In whatever way the beard presents
itself in the course of nature, so it is left to grow : and even the foreign mer
chants who come among them are prohibited from shaving their heads and
beards in contravention of their custom, as it is a thing which they hold in the
utmost abhorrence.
It may be here noted, that we saw not a single person, either in the country
of the Cossacks or in Muscovy, afflicted with jcaU, or (1^1 JL*) blindness, or (jo^U)
lumbago, or (,»<%•*) leprosy, or sick in any way ; unless there was here and there
to be seen among the Grandees some one whose feet were aching with the pain
of the gout. fAs long as we were in any part of these regions, no salt sweats
Xo! A^l jjc U*jU! -^ U Sty\ SAA J^ <UJ Itfj This sentence is unintelligible to me.
and is a sample of the incorrectness of the MS. : but 1 have ventured to translate it as in the text.
•296 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
ever came out in our fingers ; and our hair, which used to be crisp and harsh,
here became soft, like the silk of Endor.
SECT. V.
SAMOH.—CRAJAVA.—nOLKHOFA.—BEHLOFI.— IJFIN.
WE arose early on the Friday morning ; and having proceeded ten versts, or
two miles, came to the bank of a large river, by name Ndfld ; where is a small
town, used as a station for the passage of the boats, called Sdmoh : and in these
boats we crossed the river, which is indeed of great magnitude, and not ex
ceeded by any we had ever seen. We were near an hour in stretching over its
width, to which the length of its course is proportionate ; and in the middle of
the stream we saw some islands, covered with wood, and fortified with towers.
There was formerly a wooden bridge reaching from one bank to the other, but
it is now destroyed. The horses all passed this river by swimming. Then we
proceeded the distance of thirty versts, or six great miles ; and came to a large
city with a strong castle, by name Crqjaca. In it are five churches, by the
several titles of The Annunciation, The Assumption of Our Lady, Saint Michael,
Saint Nicolas, and Saints Cosmas and Damian ; and in the centre arc two fountains
of sweet water. The Voivode came out to meet the Patriarch on foot. We
made no stay whatever in the town ; but immediately went forth into the open
country, and there alighted. But before our arrival at this place, we visited a
convent near to it, situated on the side of the road, and dedicated in the name
of the Passover. In their tongue they call it Fdskarisania. Around it is a
grove of pines, admirable for their height and straightness and for their even
size — blessed be their Maker !
Here the Priests and Monks came out to meet the Patriarch, according to
' o
custom ; and we ascended to the church by a high flight of steps. It is a very
beautiful edifice of pine-wood, strongly rivetted ; and has on the top three
minarets, in a row, of light and elegant architecture, surmounted by as many
crosses of Christ. So, also, over the tabernacle are some of the like kind. This
church has a gallery all round it; and three doors, with ascents to it, on three
sides.
As to the Iconostases of the churches in this country, I have not power to
describe them as I should wish. Their images are small ; but painted with such
TRAVELS OF MACARLUS. 297
exalted skill as to ravish the senses ; and their ornaments are of beautifully-
wrought silver.
The bell-tower of this church is very high,, and of an octangular shape ; and
at the top of it is an elegant cupola, with a cross. Below are pillars of wood.,
round, and fluted. To this dome there is access from the gallery of the church ;
and to its own gallery there are three doors.
Then we arose early on the morning of Saturday, and proceeded a distance of
sixty versts, or twelve great miles, alighting twice for water and pasture. Our
road lay through a low vale, where we met not even with a village. In the
evening we came to the bank of a river called Nohari, where we halted ; after a
day's journey performed with such speed, that the flight of an arrow could hardly
exceed it'f\
Again we arose on the morning of Sunday, the eleventh after Pentecost, and
proceeded ten versts, or two miles ; whereupon we came to a large market-town,
on an elevated spot of ground, flanked by a strong castle built on the top of a
hill close by. Its name is Bolkhofa ; and it contains twenty churches and two
convents ; the one for Monks, the other for women. We assisted at mass in a
church dedicated to Saint Nicolas ; and then went forth from the town, and
halted for the night, after we had had a meeting with the Voivode.
Note, that we observed in this country an admirable contrivance for veterinary
artists who shoe horses; and this is, that in front of every shop in this trade is
fixed a kind of passage of the length of a horse, constructed with cross-beams of
wood of such a size that there is just room for him to stand within. Here they
inclose him; and having fastened him, as need may be, to the body of the frame,
they shoe him from without ; and neither has he power to rear during the ope
ration, nor yet to kick, but remains perfectly still and quiet.
From this Bolkhofa we began, and thence, as we proceeded onwards, con
tinued to see wagons filled with captives, brought by the Muscovites from the
country of the Poles : there were only women and children in them ; no men —
these being all put to the sword on the scene of action. Our hearts were afflicted
within us at this melancholy sight. God forgive us !
* " It had been remarked to me, before I visited Russia, that next to the velocity of a bird cutting the
air is the speed with which a Russian Cabinet courier hastens to the place of his destination : but now 1
had a specimen of the quickness of travelling in this empire, having- gone over upwards of eighty
English miles within the space of eight hours, including stoppages. It was such a specimen, however,
as I should never choose to repeat ; the violence of the motion having nearly proved too much for my
frame." — UR. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia, p. 205.
•298 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
It may be here noted, that at the time when the Emperor Alexius, whom God
preserve ! was on the point of setting oat on his expedition, he issued a Khatti
Sherif or Ukase, that all the Clergy of his dominions should assemble in a body,
in their several townships, within the church of the fort or citadel thereto belon<*-
ing, at an early hour on the Sunday morning, before mass, or immediately after ;
and perform for him a Hc(,ga,%.hr,trig and Supplication ; then a Airctviu, or Pro
cession round the castle: — and we observed them always doing so on every
Sunday morning.
We arose early on the Monday, which was the Carnival of the Fast of
Our Lady, and proceeded five-and-twenty versts, or five great miles, in a vast
forest of the ntalol-tree, thickly planted, and of the poplar (^), growing equally
thick. In one part of this forest the trees present a square parallelogram, having
the outward appearance of the walls of a large city. Into this we entered,
by a narrow lane ; and journeyed for the space of a great mile under a vault of
tree-branches, closely hemmed in by the thicket on each side. We were told con
cerning this wood, that formerly, when the Tartars came and seized these lands
on a sudden, the inhabitants of the towns bordering on it fled, and concealed
themselves here ; and thus escaped the Tartars, who retired disappointed : for
not even can a person on foot, much less can a horseman, thread his way
through this wood, so thickly is it set. From that time they have made it penal,
under heavy imprecations, to cut a single root in it ; and it remains to them a
great and valuable refuge to this day. Then we entered a gully, and passed
through gates and fortifications of timber, and amidst towers rising in the centre,
and saw ourselves surrounded by wooden walls built in circles on our right and
left : this scene lasted for a considerable space of our journey ; and these works
were evidently planned to resist the attack of cavalry. The name of this place,
in the Russian or Muscovite language, is Rusk. Then we passed out from these
extremely difficult, narrow, and rough roads, through which the rain accompanied
us, so that our cattle were ruined ; and proceeded on our way two more great
miles, making in all forty versts, or eight great miles ; and came in the evening
to a large town, with a fortified castle on the border of a hill, the name of which
is Eehloji. Below this town is a large river, called Oka*\ on which are large boats
" We arrived, considerably after dark, at the bank of the Oka, which, after flowing nearly due east
from Kaluga, turns towards the north, and runs past the town of Alexin, which here occupies a com
manding situation on its eastern bank. According to the statements given us at the ferry, the river is
at this place 1000 feet in breadth, by 72 in depth. It abounds in fish ; and is navigable almost to its
source, in the government of Orel." — DR. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia, p. 143.
TRAVELS OF MAC ARILS. 299
covered with the bark of trees. These boats are employed in the transport of
provisions to Moscow : for this river communicates with that city ; so that it fell
in as a portion of our route thither, and we passed along it for some distance,
as mention will be made hereafter.
The Voivode of this place, named Job, came out to meet our Lord the
Patriarch. In this town are twenty churches, and two convents ; the one for
Monks, the other for women. We instantly went forth from it ; and having pro
ceeded ten versts, or two great miles, arrived in the vicinity of a small town, in
the evening of the Carnival preceding the Fast of Our Lady. Here we alighted,
after a day's journey, wherein most of our road lay through towns and villages
and churches built on the road-side, and amidst vast crops of corn : and here
we met with some Greek merchants coming from Moscow, who told us that
a great pestilence had manifested itself in that capital, such as had not been
known for eighty years ; that they had suffered great hardships in consequence
of it ; and that the Patriarch and the Empress, and the rest of the Grandees, had
left the city.
Then we arose on the morning of Tuesday, the first of the month Ab, and
proceeded the distance of twenty versts, or four great miles, through a vast
forest, consisting chiefly of pine and „.£> trees, and over a road of extreme diffi
culty, where we suffered fatigue and trouble beyond expression : for it was all
ascending and descending, and roots of trees and straits, so that a coach could
hardly pass ; and floods of water and deep mud. So profuse indeed were the
rains, that they never ceased to pour down upon us from the moment we left
Potiblia, till our arrival in the neighbourhood of the capital. The greatest part
of this day's journey we performed on foot ; and nothing did we see but earth
and trees, and, in the midst of the forest before mentioned, gates and towers,
and forts difficult even to the passage of birds in the air : and besides all these,
there were also walls on the right and on the left, built with cross-beams of wood
for a considerable distance, for the purpose of repelling the attack of cavalry.
At the end of all was a handsomely-constructed fortress. Afterwards we came
out upon the lower grounds; and arrived at a town with a fine castle, called L(/i/i,
containing six churches : one is the High Church, which is within the citadel, and
is dedicated in the name of the Seven Maccabees, the patrons of this day's festival.
We immediately proceeded to travel ten versts further, that is, two great miles ;
and came to the bank of the River Oka, before mentioned. We passed the river
in boats; and saw near it a small town, which is a dependence on a large and
magnificent monastery situated on the right of our road, and called by the name
300 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
of The Ascension. This monastery contains fifty Monks; and the hire of the boats
and the village are its property. Here the river is much larger than we found it
the day before. Then we proceeded other five versts, or one great mile; perform
ing, in all, seven great miles during this day, through woods which they were
cutting down ; and they were afterwards ploughing and sowing the ground. In
the midst of the forest we passed this night : and how many of our nights did we
not pass, throughout, with not a wink of sleep, by reason of the rains and the
LJ and jj and (JLs-ji (various kinds of gnats) !
SECT. VI.
KALOKHA— TRAVELLING BY LAND AND WATER.
ON the morning of Wednesday, the second of Ab, we arose; and having
advanced a distance of five-and-twenty versts, or five miles, we approached the
great city named Kalokha or Kaluga*, and crossed the before-mentioned river
Oka for the third time in boats. This river skirts the town, and is very broad
and deep. The castle, or citadel of the town, is on the top of a high hill; and
they are building another castle below it on the descent of the hill, entirely
new, with foundations of stone and strong towers. The main purpose of this
new construction is the inclosure of some fine springs of delicious water arising
here. The first and principal of them is close to the walls of the old fort, on the
side facing the river; and around it they have erected some admirable structures.
The town itself is extremely large, much exceeding Potiblia in size, and is likewise
built on the side of the before-mentioned hill. Of magnificent handsome
churches it contains thirty. Their bell-towers are of a neat and elegant style,
resembling the minarets of Turkish mosques ; and their domes and crosses are
beautiful. In their vicinity are two convents ; one for Monks, the other for
" Kaluga is justly considered to be one of the most important towns in Russia. It is situated on
the left bank of the Oka, is about eight versts in circumference, and contains 26,000 inhabitants. The
streets are regular; and the houses, in general, wear a respectable appearance. The number of churches
amounts to thirty. The exterior of the Cathedral presents an elegant specimen of modern architecture ;
and the inside exhibits a display of magnificence, perhaps scarcely surpassed by any church in Russia.
The donations made to it by merchants, who in general are very opulent, are said to have been
immense. A little to the west is an excellent stone bridge, four hundred feet in length by sixty in
height, which has been raised across a gully, the sides of which, being covered with gardens and huts,
greatly enhance the romantic appearance of the scenery. The elevated situation of the town, the noble
view of the river, and other diversities of prospect, combine to render Kaluga one of the most agreeable
and healthy places in the empire." — DR. HENDERSON'S Travels in Russia, p. 142.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. ,301
Nuns. We went up into the town ; and having passed through the midst of it,
halted in the open country, both for the sake of pasturing the cattle, and because
of the impossibility of driving the coach through one of the gates. Then the
Voivode came to our Lord the Patriarch, and made his salutations to him, after
sending him a present as usual.
It may be here noted, that from Potiblia to Moscow they were in the practice
of presenting to our Lord the Patriarch, before every thing else, bread; and this
we have mentioned more than once : but it should be added, that each cake or
loaf mostly came to about ten rotulas weight of Aleppo, and resembled a mill
stone in its ponderous thickness; yet withal so thoroughly baked, that we
admired it on this account, and wondered what oven had been large enough to
hold it.
In this place we tarried until the morning of Friday, for the affair of pro
curing a relay of horses : the first service being from Potiblia to Sifska (Sievsk) ;
the second, thence to this city of Kalokha; about eight days each; and the third,
hence to Moscow.
This town is extremely populous, well built, and spacious. Here we ate
yellow melons, exactly like the Sultani of Aleppo both in colour and taste ; and
we laid up a provision of them. Their growth is promoted by the heavy dews
which fall at this season, during the night ; the extreme coolness engendered by
which endures till late in the ensuing morning.
From this city of Kalokha the Voivode despatched along with our Lord the
Patriarch certain Letters to the Emperor; to his Caimmacam or Lieutenant,
to whom they give the title of Prince ; and also to the Patriarch, informing them
of his coming. In this place we again met with some Greek merchants, fleeing
from the plague, who apprised us of its countless and irresistible ravages. Our
hearts were sorely distressed at this news ; for we were approaching the seat of
the disease, and knew not what might happen to us. We had washed our fate
of grief, but of grief it was not cleansed*: nor was all that we suffered in our first
year in Moldavia to suffice us, but this year also we must meet in Muscovy with
affliction, and that direst of all calamities, the plague. But Our Lord, glorified be
his name ! is the guardian of strangers, and their guide. Until now, he has not
neglected us, but has disposed of us handsomely.
It was calculated for us, that from this city of Kalokha, to the capital, Moscow,
* ^izJ U> A^) -oj sliLwji *$l -*>j This expression, which appears to be proverbial, I hope not
to have translated amiss.
Ru
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
are one hundred and eighty versts, or six and thirty great miles : but the road
was said to be extremely rough ; and we afterwards saw that it truly was so, to
our utter perplexity and almost perdition : for on the morning of the Friday
before mentioned, we proceeded the distance of fifteen versts, or three great
miles, in a forest, over hills, ascending and descending, through bogs and mud
and streams of water just fallen in rain ; and in narrow roads so uneven, that
God only knows what we suffered from the jolting of the carriages : their tosses
were so violent and frequent, that our entrails were rent within us, and the backs
of our poor horses all but broken with the strain. On this account it is, that
most persons travelling into this country perform their journey about the time
of the Immersion and the Great Carnival. At that season, the ground and the
roads are smooth ; there are no lumps or holes ; but the surface of the earth is
like a marble pavement, by the effect of the ice and deep snow. Then is the
time for travelling, more especially in the carriages called Sanit, or sledges, which
are carriages without wheels : these glide forward with great celerity, and stop
to make no changes on the road. For example, when we were last year in
Moldavia, there came some Monks in these carriages from Moscow to Yassi in
four and twenty days, travelling over the snow as we have described. But who
knows what may become of the extremities of his limbs or joints, in consequence
of the intense severity of the cold ? Many have lost their feet and hands, and
very many their fingers and noses ; and for our parts, we had no strength for
such an enterprise, nor were we prepared with the requisites for such an ex
posure. In the preceding year, in Wallachia, our attempts to perform this winter
travelling proved abortive ; for though we made for ourselves fur cloaks and
gloves, and all kinds of warm inner clothing, and boots lined with wool, &c., we
failed in the endeavour to keep ourselves warm. This year, may God grant us
His further assistance and protection !
Here we calculated, that from Antioch to the city of Moscow is one hundred
and twenty days' journey, to travel it day by day without intermission.
We did not get over these fifteen versts till near evening ; and were cursing
our souls from very fatigue, and saying, " This is but fifteen ; — what, in the
name of Heaven ! is to be done with the hundred and sixty-five that remain ?"
when relief and consolation came to us, by our meeting with an interpreter ac
quainted with the Greek and Russian, a respectable elderly man, sent from the
court of the Patriarch of Moscow and the Emperor's Lieutenant, to superintend
the embarkation of our Lord the Patriarch in a state barge on the River Oka,
near the afore-mentioned Kalokha ; thence to travel in tranquillity and comfort
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 303
to a stone-built fortress named Kalomna, well known as the see of the bishopric
of that name, in the vicinity of Moscow, there to remain until the plague should
cease. And this matter was so disposed, out of fear for our master's safety.
So we returned to Kalokha, where they deposited us in a large mansion : and
they immediately set about preparing for our Lord the Patriarch a state barge,
with decks, and cabins, and windows : and on the eve of Sunday, the twelfth
after Pentecost, which fell in with the festival of The Divine Manifestation, we
prayed in a new church, hung all round with curtains, as all their churches are,
dedicated by the title of The Resurrection, and adorned with large and small gilt
pictures without number. After the evening prayer, they recited the prayers for
Lent ; and the KKVUV KaQypegivo? was also, according to their invariable practice,
duly performed. Afterwards we assisted in the same church, at the "Ogflgov and
the Mass ; during which they presented trays of beautiful apples and pears, over
which our Lord the Patriarch recited the prayers for the blessing of grapes ; and
the fruit was then distributed among the congregation. Then we performed a
TlagaxXqa-ii;, and supplication for the Emperor, whom God preserve ! For, as
we before mentioned, all the clergy of this country went regularly, either before
mass or immediately after, into the fortresses of their respective towns, to per
form a Litany and Procession for their sovereign.
In this town, all the principal inhabitants, from the Voivode to the lowest of
the merchants, used to make to our Lord the Patriarch presents of fine yellow
melons ; and of trays full of such apples, that we blessed the Creator at the
sight of their beauty and size, and for their smell, and colour, and taste : they
had cheeks that were some red and some white ; and there were some that were
streaked with red and white, the latter colour being as pure as snow : their rind
was of the thinnest ; and their colour and taste were both of them finer than
those of the Syrian apples. In regard to the melons, as we have already said,
they were admirable ; so we may add, that they are peculiar to this place, for,
in the whole country of Russia, none are produced like them, either for size or
taste, if we might credit the information we received.
After they had completed the task of building and preparing the vessel, the
Voivode came to perform his last offices to the Patriarch, by conducting him to
it : and we embarked ; and they appointed us a boatswain and rowers. Our
companions embarked in a second boat. Then the Voivode sent us provisions
for the road, of bread, spirits, &c. ; and these we had over and above what we
usually bought ourselves, wherever we went.
And now he deposited our coach and harness in a proper place : and the
3Q4, TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
horses he gave to his officers, to have the use of them ; after he had taken a note
of their ages and colour and price, that if any of them should hereafter be
missing, the exact loss might be estimated and paid for.
Then they calculated in our presence, that from this city of Kalokha to Ka-
lomna, the place whither we were about to pursue our voyage, are one hun-
dred-and-ninety versts, by the course of the river.
It may be here remarked, that the Voivodas of this nation are men learned in
general knowledge and in the law ; versed in philosophy and the art of reason
ing ; and lovers of subtle questions and profound disputations. They gladly
receive instruction from the teachers who come to them from the Patriarchs
and Chiefs of the Priesthood; them they consult in their difficulties and
doubts ; and to them, on obtaining their answers, they ever yield implicit sub
mission. If one of these forbids them any thing, they abstain from it, and make
no resistance ; and their constant endeavour is to increase in knowledge : for
we used to see in the houses of each of them some thousands of large books, and
in these they love to read much both by day and night. They are not aban
doned to the desire of inebriation and of tumultuous joy. Even in the country
of Kiov we saw loads of books in the houses of the Voivodas : and what is that
country, compared with this of Moscow ! Their love of knowledge is the cause
of this literary provision ; and they even know our country by the span, and
all its history.
This Voivode of Kalokha asked us, saying, " Is it not true, that from Adam to
the year in which Our Lord the Messiah became incarnate, there are five thousand
and five hundred years complete, without increase or diminution, according to the
computation of the sacred books : and from the incarnation, or rather incorpo
ration, of the Messiah, until the present year, one thousand six hundred and
fifty-four : and from Adam until now, seven thousand one hundred and sixty-
two ? These eight years, then, of surplus beyond the computation of Christ's
nativity, whence are they, and how is to be their arrangement ?" And there
was not one of us who could return him an answer : for we had ourselves made
much inquiry concerning this matter, both in Constantinople and these other
countries, and found not one to answer us. At length we ascertained after
wards, by reference to the ancient Greek books, that the incarnation of Christ
took place in the year five thousand five hundred and eight.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. VII.
NAVIGATION IN MUSCOVY.— ALEKSIVKA.— TAR08A.— KASHIRA.- HISTORY OF
IBN OL ARAB.
THEN the crew of our boat moved us forward,, by plying their oars after sun
rise, on Friday the eleventh of Ab, along a branch of the afore-mentioned river
Oka, which they call Okarika. The meaning of Rika is " river ;" and it is so
distinguished, because, as we said before, it communicates with Moscow.
In this town and port of Kalokha are many vessels used in the transport of
provisions to the capital. They are all covered with broad sheets of bark of
certain trees, which are better for the purpose, and look handsomer than boards.
Thus our boats wrere covered to keep off the rain, and most effectually. They
also, on this occasion, spread the floors with carpets ; and over the doors of the
cabin in which our Lord the Patriarch sat, they placed the images. We then
closed up the doors with mats, as curtains, inside ; and placed other images over
the Patriarch's head, according to the custom with them. From a distance, as
we went along, we had a view of Kalokha ; and it appeared to us a very exten
sive and magnificent town.
And now, as the boat advanced, we became embosomed in a vast forest on both
sides of the river ; and the course of the stream was doubled into manifold
windings, the cause of which the sailors knew not. These had with them a
kind of long thick marine spear, which they plunged to the bottom of the water,
and thereby impelled the boat with the greatest rapidity. When it happened
to approach too near the bank and got fast aground, they set it afloat again, by
the greatest exertions, with these same poles : but in the case of a strong con
trary wind, they landed, and drew the boat with ropes along the side, as they
walked forward. And now the farm-houses and villages were without interrup
tion on our way, lying close to each other by the river side. This day we went
twenty versts : at night they anchored us in the middle of the stream.
The next morning they carried us forward about five-and-thirty versts ; and
we came to a large market-town on the bank of the river, having a large wooden
fort, on the top of a neighbouring hill, for its defence. Under that again it has
another, contiguous to itself on the bank of the river ; and within this are springs
of excellent water. Here they came to anchor with us. The name of the town
is Alzksivka, after the name of its founder. It contains four churches.
The Grand Dragoman, or Interpreter, who accompanied us, always, whenever
306 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
we came to a place like this, used to go immediately to inform the Voivode. On
this occasion, the deputy of the Voivode came to us, attended by the Clergy of the
town, and the Grandees : and he brought with him a present of meats and
liquors. Before you arrive at this town and all around it, you see a number of
mountains and rocks ; and the road is encompassed by them.
Then they moved us forward five versts further ; and wre passed a convent on
the bank of the river called Bombori, dedicated by the title of The Resurrection.
Again they proceeded with us five versts, until the close of the eve of Sunday
the thirteenth after Pentecost, when they came to an anchor.
On the morning of the aforesaid Sunday they started with us again ; and after
proceeding a distance of twenty versts, wre came to a populous borough named
Tarosa, containing four churches, in one of which we assisted at mass.
Then they floated us ten versts further; and we came in the evening to another
market-town, with a castle and fortifications on the bank of the river, but on the
ascent of a hill, called Kashira. Here we performed the 'Etfrif wor* or Evening
Service, in a church dedicated to Saint George, as it was the eve of the Festival
of the Assumption of Our Lady. On our way hither we had passed two magnifi
cent convents of stone ; one called Feadijni, or the Entrance of Our Lady into
the Temple ; the other Fisoski, meaning that it is dedicated by the title of the
Birth of Our Lady.
This evening the Voivode came and made his salutations to our Lord the
Patriarch : and it was agreed that the Clergy should come in the night, and take
us to the church. Accordingly, at the fourth hour they came ; and we went with
them to a church built of stone within the above-mentioned castle, dedicated
by the title of The Assumption of Our Lady. Here we assisted at the ' Aygwrvta,
and the "Ogdgov ; and did not leave until dawn of day.
On the outside of this castle is a fountain flowing from the side of the hill.
On the stream here and there are placed couples of beams, with a small wheel
between them ; and from the castle down to the river may be counted twelve of
these mills, the well-contrived machinery of which excited our admiration.
As to the brooks and rivulets, swoln with water, which run from the summits
of the banks of this river and flow into it, I should in vain attempt to give their
number. The prosperity of this place, which is of ancient date, is due to the
coolness and sweetness of its waters.
As we have described the face of the country here, so is its appearance all the
way from Kalokha to Kalomna : the villages and corn-fields are innumerable,
and the population of the towns is immense.
We happened afterwards to meet in Moscow with a Voivode who was the son
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. .'}()?
of an Arab of our country, and had become Voivode or Governor over this town,
and Kalomna, and Sarbsaho the Rocky, and other places : and all the people of
these parts were grateful to him for the justice of his administration, and
constant in their prayers for his health and prosperity. He told us that his
family was originally of Hirdain ; that his great grandfather's name was Khori
Soleiman, his father's Basharah Bin Gabriel, and that the latter was at one time
superintendant of the Mint. They were inhabitants of the Harat Aljadidah, or
New Street, in Damascus. At the time that Ibno Jambalat came to Damascus,
he was fifteen years of age. He knew the Patriarchs Ibno Ziadah and Ibno
'Lahmar, and the Sheikh Girgis Ibno Somor, and many others of the Damascans ;
and Khori Atlah, and Khori Nasr Allah, in Aleppo. He told us further, that
when his father died, the Pasha plundered his house, and carried him, yet a
little boy, to Aleppo ; and thence to Istambol, where he made a present of him
to the Sultan Mahomet, of whom he became one of the household slaves.
He afterwards went with the Vazir Okoz Mahomet Pasha on the expedition
into Persia, where he was made prisoner, and became one of the household
slaves of the Shah. Then he fled, and returned to Istambol ; and was first made
Sanjak of Hemah and Hemes (Emessa), tSjc. ; afterwards Aga of the Revenue ;
then successively Pasha of Napoli, and Amiro '1 Hajj, or Commander of the
Pilgrims. On his return from Mecca, he attended the Sultan Othman on his
expedition into Poland, five and thirty years ago; and being defeated, he was
made prisoner by the Poles, and became one of the household slaves of the Cral.
Afterwards he fled, and came to Kiov: thence he repaired to Moscow, in the
time of the Emperor (or Grand Duke) Michael, and entered the service of the
present sovereign, who caused him to be baptized, and gave him rank and office.
Having risen to other high commissions, he was appointed Voivode over the
towns above mentioned ; and ruled them with such strict justice, that it was
never heard of him that any person ever complained of the treatment he had
received at his hands. Instigated by his religious zeal, which was great, he
built this Sobor or high church, of stone, in this castle, with his own money,
expending on it more than two thousand dinars. After a year or two they
took this government from him, and gave him the city of Sarbsaho the Rocky.
On the lapse of some time they again dismissed him, and he came subsequently
to join us in Moscow. We frequently enjoyed his conversation ; and discovered
in him perfections of generosity, of religiousness, and of assiduity in prayer, so as
never to fail in his attendance at the masses, which were performed every morning
in the Convent of the Jodabi : and withal, he was learned in the Arabic.
308 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
It should be observed, that the boundaries of the Tartar country are at a short
distance on your right hand, as you ascend this river ; being no more than a
hundred miles off, or between twenty and thirty days' journey. We passed many
villages, and stone-built houses, laid in ruins by them in former times; and by
the Poles, who are also near neighbours.
SECT. VIII.
TROITSA AND GALOTAFONJ CONTENTS.— CASTLE OF KALOMNA.
THEN we passed over in the boat to the other side of the river ; and landed to
visit a stone-built convent opposite the aforesaid castle, called Troitsa; that is, dedi
cated in the name of the Holy Trinity. We went up to it ; and there assisted at
the Mass of the Festival, having given them previous notice of our intentions.
It is a large building of stone and brick, all plastered and whitened ; and over the
gate is a high church, built in the shape of a tower, with a lofty cupola and
galleries round it, dedicated in the name of St. Nicolas. Near it is another
tower for the bells and clock, of the same height ; having a like cupola and
similar galleries, in each arch of which are three bells. As to the great church,
to it you ascend by very high flights of steps on the three sides to each of its
doors : it is very lofty : and has large galleries all round it, with three spacious
domes. All its Dominical crosses, which are numerous, are gilt with gold.
Then we travelled in our boat from this Tuesday until the afternoon of
Wednesday; and came to a large stone-built convent, which they call Galotafoni;
meaning, that it is dedicated by the title of the Divine Immersion ; and we
anchored near it.
All the people of the places we passed, as we ascended the river, wondered much
at the sight of us ; for it had not happened from the most ancient times that any
foreign bishop should travel by this stream ; and particularly a Patriarch of
Antioch was a perfect novelty. They used to ask us, out of their ignorance of
us poor people, and their astonishment at our appearance, whether in our
country there existed any wromen ; and whether we had bread to eat : — and, to
have our joke with them, we used to answer, No.
This river Oka, by the contributions of the great number of rivulets and
springs that flow into it, sometimes becomes very broad, and more than equal to
the Nile of Egypt in size, as we \vere informed by one of the persons who
accompanied us. Occasionally, in consequence of this wide spread of its stream,
TRAVELS OF MAC ARILS. 309
we moved over two spans' depth of water only : and many a time the vessel
settled on the ground, andwras unable to move in sueh places, so that the janissa
ries were forced to strip and go down into the water to exert their strength in
pushing, whilst their companions from above, with their cabihas, that is to say,
their long marine spears, endeavoured to bear off into the deep. When it hap
pened to blow a strong breeze at times, they then also got out of the boat, to
draw it with ropes along the shore.
A few versts before our arrival at the afore-mentioned monastery, we parted
with the river we have been describing, and entered the River of Moscow' ;
properly so called, as coming direct from Moscow. This enters the former,
and both together afterwards fall into the vast river called Volga, so celebrated
for its greatness ; for its breadth, according to report, is about four miles : and
these three rivers, with the rest that have joined them, fall into the Sea of Persia,
commonly called the Caspian. Of this, a distinct account will come in the
sequel : but from the time that we entered the River of Moscow until we left it,
they constantly drew our boats with ropes from the shore, by reason of the
rapidity and depth of the stream : and we saw many vessels on it, coming from
Moscow, full of men and women and children fleeing from the plague : as we
also saw numbers of these fugitives in the villages about, and in the midst of
the woods.
To return to our history : — We then went up to the before-mentioned mona
stery, where at present was the Voivode of the town of Kalomna, whither we
were repairing, waiting to meet us : for the convent is within sight of the town,
being distant from it only a couple of versts by land, and four by water, a diffe
rence caused by the usual winding of a river. As soon as we approached the
convent, they came forth, according to custom, to meet us ; and conducted us
into the great church, which has the title of the Divine Immersion, the picture
of which is placed in the situation usually occupied by the image of Our Lord ;
such being their practice here. The ascent to this church is by a high flight of
steps on the three sides ; and around it is a gallery with three doors. It is very
ancient. After we had performed the 'E<rT£^oj> or Evening Service here, we
went out to visit the second church, which is within the refectory of the fathers.
It is handsome, and very ancient ; and consecrated in the name of one of their
new saints, Sergius ; concerning whom we were told, that he was the first who
came from the City of Kiov and preached Christ here, and that it was he who
built this church. The convent is also of his age. Between these two churches
Ss
310 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
is the tower for the bells ; which is high, and crowned with an elegant and lofty
cupola, similar to the domes of the churches.
Then we left the convent ; and passed the night outside, on the bank of the
river. Early on the morning of Thursday the seventeenth of Ab, we arose, and
proceeded in our boat to the celebrated Castle of Kalomna.
The Voivode had now anticipated our arrival; and came to meet us, at the head
of the Grandees of the town, and the Clergy, and their whole flock. By them we
were led into the fort, which is built of stone, and is visible at a great distance, in
consequence of its height : the walls also which surround it are very high. We
bowed before the images, which are over the gate, both withinside and without.
In like manner, whenever we came to a church, we stood and bowed before its
images, placed over its door, as the Muscovites did, and in imitation of them,
until they had carried us up to the great church, whence the Clergy came forth
to meet us, attended by the Deacons carrying the images and thuribles, as usual.
There we assisted at mass, for they had waited for us to begin it. This is the
church of the bishopric ; on leaving which, we went up to where are situated the
Bishop's apartments. Here they caused us to alight, by order of the Emperor
and his Vazirs : for the Bishop had been recently sent off into banishment, by
the Patriarch and the Sovereign, into the province called Siberia, for a fault
committed by him, which we shall speak of in the sequel. Neither did we find
his Vakil or Deputy, I mean the Protopapas, present : for it is their custom in
this country, when it falls out to be the festival of any large, distinguished, and
well-known convent, or the festival of the cathedral church, they make on that
day a consecration of water, or 'Ayiaa-pos, accompanied with a Supplication for
the Emperor : this water they inclose in vessels of wax, and carry as a present
to the Emperor and the whole Imperial household, to the Patriarch, and to the
officers of State, together with the images of the Saint, or the Dominical Feast ;
and then they return : such is their custom. If the Bishop had been here, he
would have gone himself to make the distribution of the presents : for the title
of this great cathedral church is taken from The Assumption of Our Lady ; and
therefore the Protopapas acted in his room ; and having made the 'Ayicurpoc,
went to distribute it, together with the images, to the place where the Emperor
was carrying on the war against Smolensko : and thence he afterwards returned.
As for the description of this city, it is thus : its size is about that of the City
of Emessa ; but its walls are comparatively vast, formidable, and raised to a
great height, with large stones and fine hard red bricks. Its towers are of a
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 311
like quality with the towers of Antioch, but rather handsomer, and more closely
built : they are wonderfully strong and solid,, and each of them differs from the
other in shape ; some are perfectly round, some octagonal, some square ; but all
are on a grand scale, all lofty, and of four stories, with numerous loop-holes and
embrasures. Around each floor is a passage on the outside, in the nature of a
fenced railing, with loop-holes commanding the ground below, like the parapets
which are both inside and outside of the strong castles in our country : and
truly this is a well-contrived structure, and deserving the admiration of the
*> o
beholder. The roofs are vaulted cupolas ; and the inclosing walls are of equal
strength and solidity with the towers, resembling the walls of Antioch both in
height and depth and breadth. The glacis of the fosse are of vast extent, and
all constructed of stone ; the whole of their interior being empty vaults, like
those which are inside the walls of Antioch, on the side of the Garden-gate
(Jos'l L->b), where we have been told they used formerly to set ^ULJJ U^o*:
and as the River Aasi flows on one side of the City of Antioch, so the River of
Moscow runs on the outside of these walls to the north. Within the precinct
are immense wide caves, vaulted under ground ; with passages for the rain-water
from above, for a supply of water in times of siege and distress : and there is an
entrance to them on one side of the fort, at the bottom of the wall, where there
is a hidden door with iron grates. On the south side also flows another river,
but smaller, having mills upon it, and named Kalomna, from which the city took
its name. This abundance of streams is owing to the mountainous nature of
the country in which the castle is situated. This castle has four large gates,
and within each gate are four others : between them are iron portcullises, which
are let down and drawn up by pulleys. At each gate is a number of cannon ;
and over the tower, above each gate, is suspended a bell, which, on any alarm,
they instantly ring, for a warning to all : at present, they are in the constant prac
tice of ringing it when any fire breaks out ; and this is of frequent occurrence :
for the houses of the city without the walls are more numerous than those
within ; and each street is a kind of village by itself, because men always love to
be near the green fields : now all these houses are of wood ; and therefore, when
a fire happens, the persons who are continually on the watch, and looking out
over the houses from the bell-tower, immediately ring an alarm ; and the people
of the town, on hearing it, whether it be day or night, instantly hasten forth in
a body, with their buckets, to extinguish it. As to the market-places, they are
all outside the town. Over each gate of the castle is a large picture painted on
* This is probably meant for ^UJsJl ^Jr* plated mirrors.
S S 2
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
the wall, within a lattice-window, and covered with a broad jutting arch all round,
to keep off the rain and snow : before it are glass lamps, in which they burn
wax tapers. Over the great gate, on the outside, is the picture of Our Lord the
Messiah, standing ; and over the inside gate is the picture of Our Lady. Within
this castle are five large stone churches, and a convent for Nuns, by the title of
The Entrance of Our Lady into the Temple. The first church £c.
As to their Iconostasis of the higher row, it may be remarked, that it is not
after the likeness of the regular form, such as is observed in the country of the
Cossacks, and in Greece ; but the Messiah is in the middle, and John the Bap
tist and the Virgin are on his right hand and on his left, and near to them art-
two angels. Then the right-hand row is filled up with Peter, and John the
Chrysostom, and Basilius, and two other Apostles ; and opposite to them are the
Apostle Paul, and Saints Nicolas and Gregorius, and two other Apostles. Thus
on each side are five large portraits of full size. Above this row is the picture
of Our Lady, with those of the Prophets who prophesied concerning her, on
each side.
They have not here, as we have, lamps with oil ; for it is too dear, and freezes
moreover in the winter : nor have they those large brass chandeliers in use
among us ; but their large thick wax torches they set in stone pillars, carved and
fixed on the ground, and furnished at the top with rims of tin. In these they
place both their large and small candles : for it is the custom, that every person
who comes to church shall bring with him a wax taper, to light up with his own
hand before the holy images.
Below the north door of the church is the bell-tower ; which is worthy of
admiration, as well for its beautiful form as for the architectural ornaments
which are lavished on it. It is a round octagon; and is handsomely carved,
resembling the Tower of Emessa, but is neater and higher. It has many arches
round it ; and over the first are others of a smaller size. Its dome, which is also
octagonal, rises high and airily above it ; and in tins are hung twelve large and
small bells, the sound of which murmurs like thunder. Within it is also a time
piece of a new invention, in a separate compartment. When the index comes to
the place which marks the half-hour, it strikes, with two small iron hammers, on
two small bells, three times : when the hour is complete, the hammers strike six-
and-twenty times on the bells, and this they call the Warning ; immediately after
which the index strikes the number of the hour as regulated, with another large
hammer on a large bell ; and the hours of the day and the hours of the night it
strikes apart. At the end of this month, Ab, it struck fourteen hours to the
TRAVELS OF MACAK1US. $\:l
day, and ten to the night ; but in the month Ilol, the days and nights
are equal.
In regard to the roof of this church, and the roofs of all the churches we have
mentioned, I may describe their quality to be that of a fir cone, or of an arti
choke ; for they have none flat, nor yet such as we call " Camel-back roofs ;"
but from side to side of the four walls are like three arches ; and over them are
others, smaller and smaller, until the dome is completed around ; being a very
beautiful artifice. The whole is covered with boards, to keep out the rain and
snow from injuring the building.
Beneath this church are many vaults and sepulchres : and above the porcli is
a second story, in which are the treasures of the bishopric, and its riches, which
we saw displayed in numerous chests, filled with dollars and ducats. All this is
in the hands of the Emperor, as we shall have occasion hereafter more distinctly
to explain.
SECT. IX.
DESCRIPTION OF THE BISHOPRIC AND CITY OF KALOMNA.
THE episcopal palace is very large ; and round it is a wrooden wall. The
passage used by the bishop up to his apartments is by a high flight of steps,
from the south door of the church, and a long corridor of wooden boards at a
great height from the ground ; walking on which, we used to see the fields
and villages to a great distance around, for it opened a wide prospect. The
apartments of the bishop — or rather, I should say, his palaces, one set being for
the summer and the other for the winter — are of fine stone and the best timber,
and are suspended in the air in the manner we have been describing. The
summer apartments have balconies jutting over gardens, that grow beautiiW
apples, of the finest shape, colour, and flavour, and of a variety of kinds ; some
red as the ruby, others yellow like gold, and some of the purest camphor-white.
The rind of all of them is very thin. There is one kind which is very smalL
but as sweet as sugar : and we now saw, to our astonishment, fresh buds and
blossoms on the branches of the tree at this advanced season of the year, though
its crop was heavy : this was not a healthy sign for the Muscovites, as we shall
shortly explain.
The winter habitation is a large house built with planed jointed wood, apart
ment within apartment, in an admirable manner ; having its doors closely fitted
;U4 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and lined with cloth and leather over the hinges and sides, so that not a breath
of air can pass through. As to the window arches, to them there are doors
or shutters well fitted, which slide along. These, in the day-time, they open,
and in their place set frames of the stone crystal of their country ; which they
again remove in the night, and replace with the shutters, so bolted and closed
in that no cold air can penetrate.
To each apartment is an Iconostasis, or stand of images ; not in the inside
only, but over the door on the outside : and even over the door of the staircase
and the kitchen-door is likewise an image-stand. For it is the custom of the
Muscovites to hang up holy pictures over every door of their houses, their cel
lars, their kitchens, and their shops ; and whenever they see an image, they stop
and bow to it with all reverence : even should a person have to pass an hundred
images in an hour, he will stop and bow to every one of them with the utmost
composure. This custom is observed, not only by the men, but by the women
and children.
The place where the bishop holds his court is an arched building, newly built
of stone ; and therein is contained also his treasury. To this bishopric belongs
the absolute property of many farms, with their cultivators ; and within the
inclosure of this palace is a large prison, furnished with iron chains and heavy
bolts, for the offenders. Whenever any one among the bishop's peasantry has
committed any misdemeanour, or has been guilty of theft or manslaughter, they
bring him and imprison him here, and punish him according to his sentence, as
we witnessed more than once, by death and stripes. Over them the Voivode
has no jurisdiction : the bishop's officers take their fines, and fix the mulct on
the thief by doubling the value of what he stole : this is their method of admi
nistering justice. So, if any of the bishop's servants was guilty of drunkenness,
they put heavy chains on his neck and legs, and hung upon him a huge bolt or
log, such as no beast of burden could drag. For many of these offenders
our Lord the Patriarch used to intercede, and obtained their liberation from
confinement.
It is not only in this bishopric that there exists a prison ; it is not only here
that chains are in readiness for the coercion of the culprit ; but in every mona
stery both a prison and chains are prepared for the chastisement of the servants
and villagers of the establishment.
It was told us, that this bishopric always maintains on foot a corps of three
hundred soldiers, in prime service, for its defence and protection, and for the
guard of its property and out-posts. Their pay is collected from its various
TRAVELS OF MACAKILS. :$\;}
farms ; and one of their duties is, whenever the bishop mounts on horseback, to
escort him as cavalry, whithersoever he goes.
At the end of the aforementioned passage is a new stone-church, built by this
bishop first, for winter use. Its foundations he has placed over the kitchen and
the bake-house ; so that the heat rises into it, and it becomes like unto a hot
bath, when the frost and snow are without. It is dedicated to The Vision which
appeared to Andreas Salos in the city of Constantinople, in the days of the
Emperor Leo the Great ; for he saw the Mother of God in the clouds. The
Muscovites name this festival Pokrobkin Bogoroditsa, and keep it on the first
day of Teshrin Alavval. On this occasion they flock in great multitudes to the
churches. The same festival was formerly celebrated among the Greeks : at
present they are unacquainted with it in practice ; but give it the name of the
^%ZK(x.$ ryg Havix.'ytag , or Veil of the Mother of God ; for the drawing of the
picture is this : — The Virgin is in the clouds ; and Andreas Salos, by pointing to
her with his fingers, is shewing her to the Emperor and the whole population of
the city. At the lower part of the picture is Romanus (Jj^liaJI uS^JU) the
inventor of lamps, painted as a sleeping child, and the Virgin &c.* To return :
The cupola of this church is built of green tiles, and is very handsome : outside
of it is a large porch, which is used as a refectory by the bishop and his retinue.
As to the wooden churches within this castle and without, they are as many
as five-and-twenty in number. In the midst of the streets is situated a convent
of great antiquity, dedicated by the title of The Divine Manifestation. The
church above mentioned, as serving for a refectory, is consecrated in the name
of The Former Finding of the Head.f
Across the River of Moscow (the Moskwa), opposite to the town, is a large
convent, made white all over, and adorned with high cupolas, dedicated by the
title of The Nativity of Our Lady ; and the church of the refectory (l/j
is in the name of Jol^Jl or The Procession of Palms.
c This whole passage is above my comprehension :
i jtj* <u£ _< j£ j^iiiJ jjjjwlj *j'J
^— '
f 1 conjecture that such is the meaning of ^jUdl <uta t> O-; • In the ~h\vvo\oyiov of the (ireek
Church, I find marked for the 24th of February, 'H TrpcaTt] xai Sevrepa, evpscrts TJ/S r//x/«s
I\po<$vofj.ou ; and for the 25th of May, 'H rp/rij svpscri^ TIJ<; Ke^)«A^s TOU Hpodpofj.ou.
3U> TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
This Kalomna is a well-known and celebrated town ; and herein are held large
markets on the Mondays and Thursdays, to which the peasants resort with their
provisions from a great distance : for it is a kind of Bender or sea-port ; and to it
come vessels by the river from Moscow, which afterwards travel to the province
called Cazania, and to that called Astrakhania, by other rivers, which become
united with the former, to the number of about seventy, and fall together into the
Persian Sea, that is, Bahro'lAjam, commonly called the Caspian; but in ancient
books and chronicles, uniformly denominated Bahro Faris, or the Persian Sea.
By this they continue their voyage to the country of the Kizzil Bash, and the
province of Georgia ; whence they come, in the form of embassies, with numerous
articles of merchandize, bringing with them assortments of brocade and dyed
silks, indigo, cotton, wool, Morocco-leather, £c.* In return for these, they
take sable-furs, fish-teeth, fine woollens, etc., from among the manufactures and
valuables of Moscow ; and in this town the meeting of all the merchants is held.
Here are continually found many vessels at anchor belonging to the Emperor :
on them is built a kind of divan or chamber, with windows and recesses, and
with balconies furnished with lattice-blinds all round them. Over this river is a
wooden bridge, to pass under which the boats lower their masts.
From this town to Moscow, by the river, is a journey of a hundred versts ; by
land, only ninety ; for it is well known that rivers always wind in their course.
To return to our account of the bishopric : All the estates of the churches
and convents are in the hands of the Emperor ; so that the heads of the clergy
have no power over such estates or their revenues ; but it is the Emperor who
sends to every convent, and to every bishop, persons deputed and authorised by
him as inspectors over all their funds and income. No head of the Clergy or of
a convent has any command, except over what he has with him as his personal
effects. Every bishopric has its bailiffs and stewards appointed on the part of
the Emperor : every convent keeps a register of its income, and leaves the proceeds
in the treasury, to supply the wants of the Emperor at the time that he marches
out to war, as we shall distinctly shew hereafter : so that they neither build, nor
throw down, nor carry any thing away, but with his knowledge and consent.
All these matters, as we said before, they exactly register in books kept with the
* Two other articles are enumerated in the Text, ^UlLaJl ^.^ ^\ of the former of which I
have not been able to discover any meaning but Buphthalmus. In Johnson's Edition of Richardson's
Arabic and Persian Dictionary, mention is made of ^ai-l ^,1x1 Las- as Rosemary.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. ,317
greatest order and accuracy ; and we saw here some of the attorneys of the
bishopric, who were elderly men of gentlemanly appearance.
The Chiefs of the Priesthood in this country have no claim to contributions
from their flock, but only from the Clergy, each of whom contributes in propor
tion to the number of his parishioners and the annual income of his church ; the
poorest of the Priests paying a dinar, or gold ducat. All this is regulated by the
Bishop's register. Every Chief of the Clergy acquires, during his ministry, more
or less property; but generally to a considerable amount, which he holds
entirely at his own disposal, except that at his decease it must revert to the
Emperor, who is the heir of all.
Whilst we were here, they informed us that the Bishopric of Kalomna is the
poorest of all the priestly chiefdoms in the Muscovite dominions ; and yet it
has jurisdiction over more than fifteen towns that are the residence of Voivodes,
such as Kalomna ; which latter Voivodate extends over more than two thousand
large and small boroughs, and many villages, containing, some of them, more
than ten thousand houses. Of these fifteen castles, or chief military residences,
one is Kashira, the Voivode of which has under his command above a thousand
villages; Sarbaskho, resembling the former; Tula, with its trade and manufac
tures &c. These fifteen Sanjaks, or Governments, hold command, in all, over
more than twenty thousand villages, the number of inhabitants in which may be
more easily guessed than reckoned : they are all diocesans of this Bishopric ;
and yet it is considered poor and weak, God help it ! Why the three Pa
triarchates of Antioch, Alexandria, and Jerusalem are not, all together, equal to it !
Throughout this vast diocese there is not a person who suffers grievance or
molestation ; none seen reduced to beg for his subsistence ; nor one that com
plains, or has any reason to complain, of tyranny and injustice ; all are secure,
tranquil, and cheerful, and are constantly earning much money. The Bishop
rules over these Voivodates with an all-pervading authority ; and here the sacer
dotal chiefs are virtuous and happy : here you behold a godlike conduct and
a religious life.
The cause of the banishment of the Bishop was this : — The present august
Emperor and the new Patriarch, Nicon, are very partial to the rites of the Greek
Church, and have an abundant love for argument and instruction ; particularly
the Emperor, who favours the Clergy, and the Monks, and every order of Priest
hood ; setting an example to the whole country of temperance, modesty, and
humility, of piety and perseverance in prayer, and of the most generous liberality
to the Bishops and other Ecclesiastics, as well as to the various institutions of
TT
318 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Friars, his faith and confidence in whom are only exceeded by his beneficence
towards them. For ourselves, until this present moment we have never seen
him ; but we were informed on all sides of his virtues and perfections. These
illustrious persons, in the time of the late Parthenios (.^jjJl^j) Patriarch of
Constantinople, who was put to death a few years ago, sent, out of their great
love and respect for him, to ask him some questions on the mysteries of our
religion and the rites of the Christian Church. In answer he wrote them a Letter,
replying distinctly to their several inquiries, which was received with great
delight by the Emperor ; who, after having it translated and read to him, com
plied provisionally with the sum of its recommendations, and then assembled a
council of the Heads of the Clergy and Conventual Priors, to lay it before them.
This august meeting confirmed it with their approbation ; and having signed it
with their hands and testimonies, and registered it in the ecclesiastical court,
they unanimously ordered it to be printed, as a valuable document for the cor
rection of their errors ; with the exception only of this Bishop of Kalomna, who,
being of an obstinate disposition, would not receive it nor approve of it, much
less sign it with his hand-writing, or confirm it by his testimony. " Since the
time we became Christians/' said he, " since the time that we inherited the faith
from our fathers and grandfathers, who excelled so much in their observance
of these our rites, and their steadfastness in this our religion, we also have
strenuously held to the same, and will not now adopt a new religion." On
hearing this, the Emperor and the Patriarch immediately sent him into banish
ment, together with his Monks and servants, and all belonging to him, to the
interior of Siberia, a journey of one thousand five hundred versts, on the shores
of the sea called 'CLzsctvos, which encircles the globe. Here are convents,
erected since ancient times, for the reception of such exiles ; in one of which
the messengers of vengeance deposited him, to lead a life to which death would
be preferable, so great is the gloominess of the situation and so execrable the
tenor of living, amidst perpetual darkness and hunger ; for bread there is none.
From this place all escape or release for him is impossible ; and this eternal
banishment he well deserves. Such regulations, and such strict enforcement of
them, are worthy of applause.
Afterwards they consecrated another in his place, as we shall relate hereafter
in proper season. And here give attention, brother, to the excellence of this
government : observe how corrective and orderly it is. For the present they
vested all the authority of the Bishop in the hands of the Protopapas of the
Clergy here and of the high church ; and to him all the peasants carried up their
TRAVELS OF MACARTUS. 319
dues, and the Clergy of the episcopal '£?«££/« their affairs, as he appeared in
all the qualities of Governor or Chief of the Priesthood, exercising authority, by
command of the Emperor and Patriarch, over them.
SECT. X.
THE PLAGUE.— SOLEMN PROCESSION.— ORIGIN OF THE IMPERIAL FAMILY.
To return : — On the eve of Friday, the eighteenth of Ah, they rang all the
bells, and flocked in great multitudes to the churches, to commemorate the
Festival of the Saints Florus and Laurus, martyrs, who, as is related of them in
the 2uvafa£;a (Martyrology), were natives of this country, and were the first to
believe in Christ. Being stone-masons, they built a church ; and for this were
put to death, becoming martyrs to the faith. So also on the morrow they all
assisted at mass, with lighted candles in their hands.
On Sunday, the fourteenth after Pentecost, before mass, they came to ask our
Lord the Patriarch to make for them an 'AyictfrfAog, that their Priests might
sprinkle it over the whole town, as the plague had already begun there to make
its ravages ; hoping that by this blessing it might perhaps be repelled from the
midst of them. All the bells, therefore, having been rung, and the whole of the
Clergy being assembled, the Patriarch made for them the ' Ay/ao-^og ; and having
crossed it with the bones of the Saints in their possession, and with the relics of
Our Lord which we had with us, he distributed it to the Priests, who sprinkled
with it the churches and the whole town ; after which they returned to perform
the usual YlagaxXqfru; for the Emperor. Having again rung the bells, they took
us down to mass : at its conclusion, the Voivode, with the Grandees of the town,
and the Protopapas, accompanied by the whole Clergy, came and knelt before
our master, weeping, wailing, and lamenting at the virulence of the plague
among them, and begging him to give them permission to make all the inhabitants
of the city fast for one whole week, in the hope that God would remove the
pestilence from them. But he granted them permission for three days only ;
which fast immediately took place : and he agreed with them again to make an
' Ayieor^o? for them on the Wednesday following, when he would go with them
in procession round the castle. The Voivode thereupon issued an order, that,
during these three days, no meat should be killed, nor any houses opened for
drinking intoxicating liquors, such as brandy and mead : and all kept a strict
T T 2
3-20 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and severe fast until the ninth hour each day, flocking together to attend the
masses in all fear and humility, not even the little children being excepted.
On the Wednesday, which was the twenty-third of Ab, at the tolling of all
the bells, the whole of the Clergy and people of the town, with their women and
children, and the Grandees, assembled to conduct our Lord the Patriarch to the
church, where all the Priests, including us and our companions, robed for
service; and he made for them an 'Ayiucrpog, with the blessing of the holy
relics, as before, and continued sprinkling and crossing them all in succession,
until the fifth hour struck. Upon this the Priests of the town and the Deacons,
with their censers, went out before us, two and two, carrying the picture of
Our Lady, celebrated here for working miracles. Each of their Priests bore in
his hand a box, or case, holding a cross ; for, in this country, they never touch
the cross, nor hold it in the hand, but always in a case. Lastly came the other
images, and the books of the Gospels.
Thus we proceeded towards the outside of the castle, our Lord the Patriarch
wearing his Mavdva, 'E^r^a^'A/ov, and 'npxpo^ov, in his right-hand carrying
his cross, and in the left his crosier ; ourselves, in our ^n^a^ia, holding up his
train ; the Priests, our fellow-travellers, in their royal copes, preceding and
following him ; the Voivode and grandees walking behind him ; and, in front of
all, the troops clearing his way among the crowd. It was a procession to be
recorded for ages. We then began to chaunt the H^anXritrig ; and every time
we came in sight of a church we turned towards it, bowing, as they did. Then
the Clergy belonging to it, (and I am speaking both of the churches in the
interior of the castle, and of those on the outside,) came forth in their robes, in
one hand bearing the cross on a stand, in the other an image, or picture.
Walking near our Lord the Patriarch was a Deacon carrying a vessel of
'Ayicuruog, from which his Holiness sprinkled the church, and the street in
which it was situated, and the parishioners ; and after he had given the
officiating Priest his benediction, in the Muscovite form, on the forehead,
shoulders, and breast, that parish ministry retired. Afterwards, on our return,
the same ceremony was repeated.
In the mean time, all the bells were ringing without intermission. When
we came near the city gate, and bowed towards the image of Our Lady over it,
the Patriarch took some of the holy water, and, in conformity with their
practice, threw it up to her in the air : then he sprinkled some on the inside of the
gate, and on the guns. On going out, we turned our faces towards the picture
of Our Lord, and bowed to it, whilst the Patriarch sprinkled it, as before. Here
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
all the Clergy stood round in a circle, carrying their images in front and facing
his Holiness ; and I recited the Prone in supplication for the Emperor, after I
had incensed the picture and the assistants. When all had resumed their ranks,
we walked round the moats of the castle, with the ensigns, banners, and crosses
before us, and the large tall cross, of gilt wood, at the head of all, surrounded
with lamps on long poles. On arriving at the second gate of the city, we
bowed to the image at a distance, they having previously lighted all the lamps
before it and the other pictures ; and when the Clergy had taken their stations,
as before, the Deacon recited the Prone in supplication for the Emperor and
his son. It was thus :—" Have mercy on us, O God! according to Thy great
mercy. We ask mercy, life, peace, health, safety, bounty, forgiveness, direction,
guidance, and protection, for the Emperor, the lover of Christ, the crowned
of God, the pious and well-disposed Kniazi ALEXIUS MICHAELOVITZI ; for the
Empress Kyria MARIA AUGUSTA ; and for their illustrious son, Prince ALEXIUS
ALEXIOVITZI. Prolong their race in safety ! Direct, O Lord God ! all their affairs
by Thy gracious providence ; and humble all their enemies and assailers under
their feet !" During this prayer we responded in chaunts of Kvgts 'EAeVov, and
repeated our Metanoias.
In regard to the well-known title of " Kniazi," used by this imperial family,
we were told that their origin is from Rome ; whence, about seven hundred years
ago, an ancestor of theirs came by sea to the country of Moscow, and, being
from the first a great Archon, became at length the Sovereign of the whole ter
ritory ; so that every Prince who has succeeded in the line of these Monarchs is
called" Kniazi." This title they gave also to Zenobius Chmiel.
Then the Protopapas read a Gospel, first for the plague, secondly for Our
Lady, and came to the Patriarch to present him the book to kiss. His Holiness
then gave his blessing to the congregation, recited the prayer for the Emperor
in the wars, and a prayer for the plague, and again repeated his benediction.
Having made the customary inclination to the image, we moved forward amidst
the continued ringing of all the bells ; and crossing the small river by a bridge,
came opposite the third gate, where we performed the like ceremony as before.
We then made the entire circuit of the castle ; and entering by the same gate
through which we had gone out, returned, and ascended to our church.
Here the Priests, carrying the holy images, halted in the porch, until the Pa
triarch had incensed them, and, after profound inclinations, kissed them all
successively ; when they set them in their places, and we laid aside our copes.
Immediately they began the mass, which was attended by the whole population ;
nor did we go out from service till the clock had struck the eighth hour.
322 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. XL
PRAYER FOR THE IMPERIAL HOUSE.— CHURCH MUSIC.— DRESS OF THE CLERGY.
AT the end of every church service here in Muscovy they perform a TloXv-
Xgovtov, or prayer for long life, for the Emperor, chaunted by the whole of the
attending Clergy and choristers ; and to their practice, from the time of our
arrival in the country of the Cossacks, we strictly conformed ; commemorating
his Majesty, like them, in every Prone, and at the end of the service performing
for him the aforesaid HoXv%goviov} in which we included the Patriarch, as they
do ; but in the latter prayer they name the Emperor before the Patriarchs,
reversing their practice in the Prone. The tenor of the Hohv%goviov is thus : —
' May the Lord God grant many years, under His divine favour, protection, and
guidance, to His crowned Emperor, the greatest of sovereign princes, the great
Kniazi ; the master of the keys of the territory of Muscovy, and of all the lands of
Russia, the Lord Lord Kyr ALEXIUS MICHAELOVITZI, the Empress &c., and to his
all Holiness and Beatitude, the Patriarch of the great and guarded city of
Moscow, the Lord Lord Kyr NICON ! The Lord preserve them all!" We
added, in Greek, for his Lordship our own Patriarch, Tov Aso-Troryv xoti 'Ag^ugta,
rifivv, Ku^s, (pvXarrs sig TO, TroAXa \rv\.
On the eve of the twenty-sixth of Ab, they rang all the bells, and there was a
great attendance to commemorate the Entrance of the Picture of Our Lady,
painted by Luke the Evangelist, into the City of Moscow. They read the Pro
phecies, and performed a A<rJj in the porch, as usual, with two officiating Priests.
The Deacon read the Prayer for Vigils, " Save, O God, thy people ! " after
which they went through the Office for Sleep ; and theKavuv Kufypegtvos, as
they do every evening. On the morrow there was an assemblage at mass.
Most of their days here., in this country of Moscow, are festivals : for on most
days the great bells, appropriated to the Sundays and great festivals, are rung
for some distinguished saint's day, and especially for their new saints, as we shall
explain hereafter ; whereas, in Moldavia and Wallachia, and the country of the
Cossacks, they are rung only on the eve of Sunday or of a great festival.
Nothing used to affect me so much as the united clang of all the bells on these
evenings, and in the middle of the subsequent nights. The earth shook with
their vibrations, and the drone of their voice, like thunder, ascended to the
skies. And what should hinder this great nation from observing these frequent
solemnities, since, by the comfort of their circumstances, and the affluence of
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 323
their wealth, all their days are fair-days and festivals ; and on no day in the
whole year is the celebration of mass interrupted in any of their churches, but
every person, whether man, woman, or child, regularly attends the church in his
own parish, each bringing with him one candle or more, with a copeck, which is
their piaster, stuck in it for the service of the altar. They never conclude the
office in any of their churches, nor do any of the congregation retire, until the
third hour is past ; and in the mean time they are all fasting. It is not true, as we
had heard concerning them, that they have churches where mass is performed
at midnight and the dawn of day, for the convenience of travellers ; since all the
roads are full of churches ; and wherever any Russian is on his journey, he always
stops at the nearest church to hear mass at the usual hour, in consequence of
the universal desire of this nation daily to attend that ceremony. In every city
throughout the empire there is also a great or high church, which they call
Sobor, that is Catholic, or cathedral, where every day, on the departure of the
people from the masses in the other churches, they ring the bells for high mass,
at which all the Clergy of the town, and most of the laity, attend. This they
look upon as their daily duty.
After the appearance of the great pestilence here, the Ministers of the parish
churches, having recorded the names of their deceased parishioners buried round
their respective churches, used to bring their registers to commemorate them one
by one at the sacrifice ; and at the time of the Prone, when we had gone
through all the usual forms, the Deacon used to add a new one, with which we
were unacquainted, praying for rest to the souls of the departed brethren, each
by name, to the amount, sometimes, of four or five thousand names ; so that by
this they were detained a very long time at mass, and did not conclude it till
the sixth or seventh hour was past. (Here follows a long detail of church ceremo
nies and religious observances, some of which are very curious, as exhibiting the
extraordinary piety and devotion of the Russians.^ For ourselves, we were jaded
with the length of their masses and prayers ; and scarcely ever retired till we
were ready to drop, from the weakness of our legs and backs, being literally cru
cified with exertion. But it is for the Almighty to dispose of us as he thinks fit.
The Muscovites do not care to kiss the holy images, nor to kiss the Gospel, at
Sunday Matins, as we do ; nor do they care to participate in the 'Avr/^a ; and
this arises from their great reverence for these sacred objects. Once only in the
year do they kiss the images ; namely, on the Sunday called " of the Images,"
when they wash themselves, and put on clean clothes. Should any impurity
have happened to a Muscovite, he does not enter the church at all, but stands
#21 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
outside : and when a family have contracted any uncleanness, they make haste to
wash themselves, and do not enter the church, nor kiss an image, nor touch it,
a circumstance which we particularly observed in the picture-sellers at Moscow,
until the Priest has recited over their heads a prayer, with which we are unac
quainted, and has given them his blessing : then they enter the church. On
some of these occasions, the whole body of the officiating Priests is required to
come out to them, as we used to see, and blushed through shame at seeing ;
particularly on the Saturday evenings, almost all the married people in the parish
stopped outside the church, until the priests came to pray over them, that they
might enter.
In regard to the church music of these countries, it may be observed, that the
chaunting of the Cossacks dilates the breast and clears the heart of care. With
a vehement love for psalmody, and a strict attention to the rules of music, they
give forth, in a sweet high tone, from their very souls as it were, and from one
mouth, the most delightful sounds ; whereas the chaunt of the Muscovites is
without science, just as it happens : it is all one to them ; they find no fault ;
and the finest in their estimation is the low, rough, broad voice, which it is far
from being pleasant to hear*. As with us these gross tones are found fault
with, so by them our high intonation is deemed vicious ; and they laugh at the
Cossacks, and reproach them for their music, telling them that theirs is the
music of the Franks and Poles.
As we remarked before, the dress of the Clergy consists of green or coloured
cottons, or of Ancyra woollens, which, being much approved by them, are worn
by most of them, with a broad collar, turned down over their breast and shoulders,
of embroidered silk or flowered velvet, and with numerous buttons, either of
silver gilt, crystal, red coral, blue turquoise, or other similar material, buttoned
from the neck to the bottom of the skirt. Others wear wide gowns with large
sleeves, plain, and not made to open in front. The young readers,, who are not
yet in orders, imitate either the one dress or the other. In regard to their head
dresses, the rich among them, and the Protopapases, wear calpacks of green, red,
or black velvet ; the rest of cloth : under them they wear red cotton caps, with
a fringe of yellow silk, bound round with rose-coloured lace. The Deacons dress
in like manner, as do also the Wives of the Clergy, who are thus known to be
married to a Papa or a Deacon ; but besides them no other person whatever uses
this costume.
* The Russians have apparently reformed their system since the Archdeacon's visit, as recent Travellers
speak with great admiration of their solemn music.
TRAVELS Of MACARir.S. 3'2,j
The ecclesiastics do not shave their heads, with the exception of a large circle
in the middle : the rest of their hair they leave to grow its full length. They
are continually dressing and comhing it ; and are very diligent in looking at
themselves in their mirrors,, of which one, if not two, is always found in every
chancel. Here they think no harm in consulting the glass, and combing and
dressing themselves. By this unremitted attention to their exterior, they always
look respectable, and neat to the extreme. Even the village; curates, who are
under the jurisdiction of the Protopapas, and stand before him bareheaded to
receive his blessing, are much revered by the people, wrho never present themselves
before them but with their heads uncovered. They are equally respected by
the Voivodes and other magistrates., whom we often saw taking off their calpacks
to them. In the churches, every person stands bareheaded, from the beginning
of the service to the end, whether Priest or layman. Whenever a Priest is seen
passing through a street, the people hasten to kneel before him to receive his
blessing, which he gives them in their peculiar form, riz. by touching their fore
head and shoulders.
It is usual for every cathedral church, like this of Kalomna, to have seven
Priests and seven Deacons, neither more nor less : and in this they shewed us,
within the chancel, all the banners of the several dignitaries of the bishopric ;
the OsXov/a of heavy embroidered silk, adorned on the shoulders with rich
gold lace, worn by the Bishop ; his lour mitres, which are crowns without rolls ;
his numerous copes for the various festivals ; silver vessels ; and OsXowa and
2r/^/a'p<a for the Priests and Deacons, made of princely materials ; as how should
they not be, having been given to the church by the Emperors. Here we
were blessed with the sight and touch of the relics of numerous Saints, deposited
in silver and gold cases ; and we knelt to them, as our duty was. We were
struck with admiration at the splendor in which they are kept. As in ancient
times, during the reign of the Christian Emperors, they used to carry the rarities
of the whole world, and particularly the holy remnants and relics of the Saints,
each from its proper home, to the Imperial City of Constantinople, where they
remained collected entire until the flight of its inhabitants began ; so, since that
period till the present time, it has been the will of God and the care of the Patri
archs, Bishops, Abbots, Priests, and Monks of 'every denomination, that those
treasures should be transferred, those glorious relics removed thence, to the new
Rome, the City of Moscow, a place deserving all praise and veneration. Here
they have presented them successively to the various sovereigns, who knew so
well their value ; and have been remunerated for them with riches and benefits.
U u
.vw. TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
In consequence of their great zeal for religion, and their happy devotion, the
Emperors have honoured these monuments of Our Saviour, and these relics of
His Saints, with gold and silver shrines, making presents of them to the Cathedral
Churches of the Bishops, and to the great Monasteries, which are built within
the forts of the large towns.
At the beo-inning of every month they make an ' Ay;a<r^os, which they cross
with these relics ; then they sprinkle it over all the churches and houses in every
city of the empire, to drive away evil from them. If any affliction or distress
makes its appearance, the priests carry these relics round in procession, entreating
the Saints, of whom they are portions, to intercede with the Creator, that he may
repel the calamity. This is the list of the principal relics : first, there is a large
gilt cross, adorned with large pearls, and inlaid with a piece of the wood of the
true cross : then among the cases is one covered with gold, containing a golden
sun, on which is painted the figure of St. George : within it is a portion of his
body, real, and shining like gold, and as hard and plump as a pebble. There is
a tooth of John the Baptist; a finger of Andrew the Apostle; some bones of
the first Deacon, Stephen, of Daniel the Prophet, of Panteleemon the Martyr,
Artemius the Martyr, St. Theodorus, and St. James, Kuthemius the Great, John
Chrysostom, Proclus, and Andrew the Military Officer *. All these relics have
their edges gilt, and their names written on them.
To return : On the eve of the twenty-ninth of Ab there was a great attendance
in the churches, to commemorate the beheading of John the Baptist. On this
dav they are accustomed to abstain from all food cooked on the fire : they eat
raw fruits only.
* Tin- Manuscript adds ^iv^wJI ^f tj-^ '
KM) OF PART THE THIRD.
A' B-THE COMMITTEE of the ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND of GREAT BRITAIN and IRELAND
considers it necessary to inform the Subscribers, and the Public in general, that during the period
proa-din- sheets were passing- through the press, the Translator had the advantage of comparing them
with Mil. ABRAHAM SALAME'S Manuscript Translation of the same Part, now in the possession of the
Committee.
PART THE FOURTH.
MUSCOVY.
BOOK VII.
SECT. I.
FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR.— THE PLAGUE.— FUNERALS.
ON the first day of 1161, the opening of the year seven thousand one hundred
and thirty-six of the world, being the first day of the new year, and the
commemoration of Saint Simon the Stylite, of Aleppo, a great concourse,
both on the eve and on the following morning, took place, amidst the ringing
of all the bells ; for the Muscovites have a great love for this Saint. They
placed his image on a reading-desk ; and from the earliest hour of the morning
all the people hastened to the church, drest in their finest clothes ; the dignity
of this day, as the first in the year, being greater with them than even Easter.
The whole of the clergy of the town, having met and put on their copes, per
formed, in the first place, a ILugaxXqo-ts for the Emperor, with the usual prayers,
accompanied with a supplication that this might be the beginning of a year
of blessings to him ; and afterwards they chaunted a HoXv%g6viov, for length
of life to him, to his infant son Alexius, the Empress, and all the Imperial
family. In like manner, they congratulated one another with wishes for the
happiness of each in this new year. Then they made an 'Ay/ao-^o?, blessing
it with the reliques of the Saints, and aspersed the whole congregation.
When the Emperor is present in the capital, they told us an immense
assemblage takes place, and a great festivity, during which the Emperor,
attended by all his court, and wearing his princely robes and crown, goes
forth from the great church, with the Patriarch. In the inner area of the
palace his Holiness performs for him a Supplication and a Hohvxgovtov ; and
the Emperor, in like manner, offers up his prayers for the long life of the
Patriarch. Upon this, all the Grandees step forward, to pay their gratulations
X x
3-28 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
to both,, and then salute each other. Such is their custom, and much is it to
be commended.
On the festival of the Cross, their ceremony resembles ours ; except, that they
mention the name of the Emperor Alexius in the usual TgoTragia, ; and fixing
the cross on a stand, continue to pay their devotions to it until the day of its
removal.
To return : — The great plague had by this time moved from the city of
Moscow, and spread itself in the environs to a great distance, devastating
many towns, and visiting, among others, this city of Kalomna, with its sur
rounding villages. It was a most terrifying thing ; for it was not merely a
plague, but a sudden mortality. Persons might be standing erect in full health,
and in an instant they would drop down dead. A man riding on a horse, or
sitting in a carriage, would roll back and expire, and, swelling like a bladder,
would turn black, and assume the most hideous expression of countenance.
The horses were wandering about the country without owners ; and persons
were lying dead in their carriages, whilst none was found to bury them. The
Voivode had sent to close the roads, to hinder persons from entering the town,
and prevent, as it was hoped, the infection from being imported by any travel
ler ; but it was found impossible. A like measure, however, was carried into
effect by the Emperor, who was engaged in the siege of Smolensko, in regard
to messengers bringing him letters. His troops were encamped on the bank of
a large river, from the further side of which no person was allowed to pass over
to them, that the mortality might not make its appearance amongst them.
When letters came for the Emperor, men stationed on the opposite bank
received them ; and having carried them over in their boats, and dipped them
in the stream, delivered them to others, to be presented to the Emperor. Thus
they were of opinion that the infection was communicated from hand to hand ;
and for this reason they dipped the papers in water, after the manner of the
Franks. The Muscovites had no knowledge whatever of the plague from
former times., and used to be much surprised when they were told of it by the
Greek merchants. Now that it had shewn itself among them, they were
greatly disturbed and alarmed.
In the interim, the Voivode had despatched no less than sixteen messengers
to the Emperor, and to his Lieutenants in the capital, one after another, to
deliver letters on business and importance to us and to them ; and of these, we
were assured, not one returned, all having died on the road. We were informed,
by the old people, that a hundred years ago a plague had made its appearance
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 329
among them ; but it was nothing like what was experienced at the present time,
which far exceeded any thing that had ever been known. No sooner had this
contagion entered a house, than it made a total clearance, not leaving a single
inhabitant behind ; so that the dogs and swine roamed about the houses, encoun
tering none to drive them away, or to shut the doors against them ; and the
city, which before was crowded with inhabitants, became entirely desolate. As
to the villages, they were emptied altogether, as were also the monasteries, of
their inhabitants ; and the beasts, cattle, swine, fowls, &c., being destitute of
owners, perished, for the greater part, of hunger and thirst, having none to look
after them. It was a state of things dreadful to behold, a scene of woe and
lamentation ! for the mortality spread its uninterrupted ravages through the
whole capital, and through this and the surrounding countries, to the distance
of seven hundred versts, from the end of the month of Ab (August) till near the
Feast of the Nativity ; by which time it had completed the desolation of the
towns by the annihilation of their inhabitants. The number registered by the
Voivode, of the persons who died in this town, was, as he informed us, ten
thousand families : but as most of the young men were with the Emperor, in the
wars, the houses were carefully sealed up for them, to be preserved from
plunder ; lest, otherwise, on their return, their vengeance might be incurred.
In these dreadful circumstances, it was proved how truly Christian this nation
is, and how strong their religious feelings; for no sooner was a man or wroman
taken ill, than they abandoned all worldly thoughts, and, calling in the Clergy,
confessed and communicated with the utmost reverence : this they did equally,
whether they were old, or middle-aged, or in the prime of youth. All their
property they usually bequeathed to the convents, churches, public buildings,
and the poor. The worst of all, and the greatest manifestation of God's wrath,
was the death of most of the Clergy ; and their consequent scarcity, so that many
persons died without confessing or receiving the sacred mysteries. Numbers
also of the Clergy lost their wives by this mortality. Now, it is the practice of
the Patriarch here, and of the Bishops of this country, not to allow any
widowed Clergyman to say mass. After he has become a Monk in some con
vent, and resided there for many years, in the expectation that his thoughts
shall be entirely estranged from worldly concerns, they pray over him, and then
give him permission to perform mass ; but not even so, till after much interces
sion and entreaty. The new Patriarch, Nicon, has, however, altered this
practice, because he has a great love for the regulations of the Greek Church ;
yet he does not permit the widowed Clergyman to remain in the capital, or in
330 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
any town, but compels him to reside, as a Monk, in some convent, there to
celebrate mass with full permission. This banishment of the widowed Curates
is a great misfortune in such times as these, when the supply of secular Ministers
is deficient.
As the season advanced, the plague increased in virulence and extent ; and
the deaths multiplied exceedingly, so that no one was found to bury the dead.
Great numbers of bodies were cast into a hole, one upon another : many were
brought in carts driven by boys on horseback, unattended by any family or
relatives, and thrown into the grave in their wearing-apparel. Of the Clergy, as
we before said, a great multitude died ; and on this account they brought the sick
in carriages to the churches, to confess themselves to the few Priests that sur
vived, and to receive the mysteries. Thus the Ministers were unable to quit
the church at all, being obliged to remain there the whole day, in their robes, to
receive the visits of the dying. Even this consolation was unattainable to many
of the sick ; and some were left to wait their turn in the open air, in the cold,
for two or three days, with none to look to them, through the total extinction
of their friends and families. Even the healthy , at these frightful sights, died
through fear. The expenses of the funerals of the strangers who died were
contributed by the merchants, according to their usual custom.
In Moldavia, Wallachia, and the Country of the Cossacks, all the Christians
bury their dead, commonly, in coffins made up of boards ; but here they bury
them in coffins hewn out of a single piece of wood, with a lid made of another,
and sloping like a roof: these are used not only for grown persons, but also
for children, though no more than a day old. On the present emergency, their
scarcity became so great, there being no one to bring them from the villages,
that, whereas formerly the price of them was less than a dinar, it now rose as
high as seven dinars ; and at length none were to be had, so that they were
compelled to bury the rich in coffins made of boards, and the poor in nothing
but their clothes.
All the seven Ministers of the Cathedral Church here died, and six of the
Deacons ; together with the Protopapas, his sons who were Clergymen, their
children, and every person in his house. After the mass had successively
ceased in most of the other churches, it had still continued to be celebrated in
the Cathedral daily, without intermission ; but finally it was interrupted even
here, as well as the other prayers and services : and this cessation of the
Ministry endured a considerable time, until the Bailiffs sent one of the Village
Priests, early on the Sunday mornings, to perform mass.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 331
One of the victims to the disease was the Barifojicos, or Imperial Dragoman,
who had attended us from Kalokha. In consequence of his death, our Lord
the Patriarch sent to represent our destitution to the Emperor's Lieutenant ;
and, after a length of time, he sent us another. It is usual for one or two of
them to he always residing at the Court of the Patriarch of Moscow, to be in
readiness, in case they are wanted. The meaning of the name Barifojicos in
the Russian language, is, in Greek, MeruQgourrK, that is, Translator of writings
from the Greek into Russian. When this second interpreter came, he informed
us, that the Lieutenant of the Emperor and the Ministers had kept a register of
the persons who died in the capital from the beginning of the plague till its
termination, and that their number amounted to four hundred and eighty
thousand souls, so that most of the streets and houses were cleared of their
inhabitants ; — that, whereas formerly the whole city swarmed with people, it was
now become desolate ; and the dogs and pigs were devouring the dead bodies,
having become ravenous to such a degree, that no person dared to walk alone ;
for their hunger and rage were so violent, that if they encountered a lonely
wanderer, they would attack him and tear him to pieces.
The Emperor's Lieutenant was himself taken ill and died ; and three of the
Metropolitans with him, one after the other, whom the Patriarch had sent to
the capital to supply his place. As to the inferior Clergy who died, it is im
possible to compute their number. The churches generally were left destitute
of Ministers : the few that survived acquired to themselves immense wealth ;
for they did not confine themselves to the usual practice of burying the dead
one by one, but performed the rite collectively for a great number together,
taking for each whatever fees they chose to demand. A Priest's mass cost
three dinars, and more ; and even at this price could not always be procured.
So great a degree of God's vengeance, inflicted on his servants, in permitting the
price of spiritual benefits to become so enormous, excited our utmost astonish
ment. At length things came to such a pass, that the ordinary course of burial
was impracticable ; and they dug large pits, into which they threw the bodies
indiscriminately, without ceremony : for the town began to stink with their
corruption, and the dogs and swine could not be prevented from devouring
them, as they lay where they had fallen in the streets and open houses. Most
of the gates of the city, he said, were shut, for want of troops to guard them :
that the Emperor had sent, first,, six hundred janissaries, that is a beglik, with
their Aga, and they all died : then he sent a second time as many more, and
they likewise died : a third time he sent an equal number, and the same fate
332 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
attended them ; for every person who entered the capital instantly fell down in
a mortal agony.
This state of things lasted from the month of Tamoz till near the Feast of
the Nativity, when it had arrived at its height, and it pleased God that it should
cease. Many of the inhabitants of the towns fled into the woods and the open
country ; but few even of these escaped the mortality. All this time we were
in great distress ; and our sorrow, tribulation, and terror were unspeakable. We
were residing in the highest rooms of the Bishop's palace, eye-witnesses of all
these calamities ; and the servants of the bishopric, who were living in the
lower apartments, we used to see carried out, couple after couple, dead, not in
consequence of a previous illness or the attacks of a violent fever, but they
would drop down suddenly breathless, and immediately swell to a hideous size :
we never, therefore, ventured to stir out of our apartments at all, but remained
shut up day and night, in hourly expectation of a frightful death, weeping and
lamenting at our condition. No comfort of any kind approached us ; no alle
viation of our grief could reach us ; not even a drop of wine could be obtained,
that we might assuage with it the bitterness of our affliction, and soothe the
violence of our fears and alarms. Despair of our lives was ever before us,
situated as we were in the very centre of the town, and beholding every moment
the mortality around us. We were, in particular, most distressed for our fellow
travellers who continued with us ; I mean, the Heads of Convents, natives of
Greece. These, indeed, escaped death, but they were in continual dread of it,
and, to the great distress of our hearts, were perpetually lamenting, and saying to
us, " Arise, and flee with us into the deserts, away from these scenes of horror ! "
We answered : " Whither shall we poor foreigners fly, amidst this strange people,
who are unacquainted with our language ? Wo to you, for your trust in such
a design ! To what place can we escape, from the face of an enemy in the grasp
of whose hand are the lives of all ? Do you suppose he is not found, or imagine
that he does not exist in the open fields as well as in the close towns ? Do you
think he does not see the fugitives ? Assuredly you are of little understanding,
ye silly men ! " With our Lord the Almighty we expostulated in our hearts ;
saying, " What is this that has befallen us, O Lord ! and still befalls us, poor
sinners ? Last year we encountered the alarms of war in Moldavia ; afterwards,
our people and ourselves fell ill of colds and fevers in Wallachia ; this year, in
this country of Moscow, we meet the plague ! " Thus we were in continual
suffering, amidst never-ceasing dread and confusion, but, by the favour of God,
in good health and safety ; by the favour of that God, who says, " I am the
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3,33
faithful guide of strangers." With those who accompanied our wanderings, I
was ever thanking Him — exalted be His name !— and praising Him ; and we
were continually kneeling, to adore Him.
Our only consolation and relief, in these melancholy circumstances, was the
absence of all shouting and howling over the dead, so much used by the women
of our country, who have learnt it from the Arabs. Raising their voices to the
highest pitch, they cry and shriek in so awful a manner, as to break the hearts
of the healthy, and turn their wholesome blood feverish. But the Christians of
all the countries on this side of Constantinople are not in the habit of employing
their women to mourn over the dead with loud shrieks, nor have they ever
learnt such howlings as are practised amongst us. Here they weep over their
deceased friends calmly and quietly ; and lament, in a suppressed tone, with
accents that soften the hardest heart ; but their voices are not overheard by
their neighbours. In Moldavia, during those melancholy times of distress, we
used to see the wives of the JUJ, who had hidden themselves in the convents,
when news came that their poor husbands and relatives were killed in the wars,
gathering round them their daughters, and letting loose their hair which they
usually wore rolled up ; and after weeping with mournful lamentation for the
space of an hour, whilst the people were looking at them, immediately thereon
becoming silent, and rising up to think no more about it, as though the report
were false, and such things were not! Our astonishment at this poverty of
feeling was great. Could thousands of men be slain in battle, and their families
pay so little attention to their loss, be so little affected with the news of their
death, that they seemed not to know how to bewail them duly, but were
contented with calmly weeping for them so short a time, and moving their
heads to and fro in sorrow, without black clothes or blackened countenances,
without beating their faces or crying aloud, and without even changing their
white garments for some of a soberer hue ! We used to say of them, that they
set no more value by their husbands and brothers here, than they do on passing
strangers. With us, on the contrary, in our country, the deceased are exceed
ing precious, and their loss is heavily valued. When any person has died in
the course of nature, his family disturb the whole place with their howlings and
shrieks, at the very height of their voices, like the wild Arabs from whom we
have learnt the custom ; and for this the people here used to mock us, and call
us Arabs, out of ridicule. The name Arab is, in their estimation, the vilest that
can be given, as they consider that not a single person of that nation is a
Christian ; but that all are Turks and Hanafies, enemies of Christ's religion.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
For we found here, among the Russians, many prisoners who had escaped from
our country ; and these have given accounts of it, and acquainted them with its
deformities ; telling them, that to moan and weep publicly over the deceased
Christians there is not permitted. We used here to see, daily, thousands of dead
bodies carried forth for interment, without hearing a cry or a wail: all was
silent, as though no plague existed among them. The women who attended
the funerals, we observed, as they passed by us, were not satisfied with mourning ;
but whenever they came to a church, they stopped, and turned towards the
image suspended over the door, kneeling down, crossing their foreheads, and
beating their breasts, with moans and tears. If the deceased was in posses
sion of a shop, and his wife or relations wanted to open it, they waited till a
certain period after his death ; and then, after paying their devotions to the
image suspended over the door (not confining their adorations and prayers, as we
do, to the regular ministry of the Priesthood and the service of the church), and
having renewed their weepings and lamentations, they proceeded to the disclo
sure. Happy are they in the plentiful blessings of their religious feelings, amidst
such afflictions of providence ; and much were we consoled in the thought, that
our native country has so long been screened from the calamity of this mortal
pestilence. To the Almighty God be thanks ! and blessed be His name, for
preserving us here harmless, in the midst of it ! Sufficient, indeed, was the
hardship of our destitution, and our absence for the two last years from our
homes, families, and friends, without the accumulation of the sorrows and diffi
culties which we now moreover witnessed. O God ! grant to us the extinction
of those debts which caused our journey hither ; and whatever other blessing
we may seek from the ocean of thy bounty, graciously bestow it, O most
Bountiful of the Bounteous ! None is lost who places his confidence in Thee,
O tliou restorer of the broken-hearted ! thou feeder of the hungry wanderer !
Support us by Thy beneficence, O thou best of supporters ! for our souls are
famished, and our pilgrimage has been drawn to a tedious length. How long,
O Lord, shall it endure ? Permit not that any of us die before the payment of
the debts we owe, Thou source of riches, and fountain of all affluence ! but
have mercy on us, poor wretches !
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3.3.5
SECT. II.
SIKf.'K Or SMOLKXSKO.— DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN.
JUS TORY OF RADZIVIL.
To return to the history of the Heaven-protected Emperor. — After lie had
marched with his army to the siege of the city of Smolensko, he beset it on all
sides with the strictest inclosure, for about seven days; during which, his troops
ceased not to use every stratagem against it, until they had made a breach in
its walls with a large battery of heavy guns, and thrown down two of its towers,
with the ruins of which they filled the moat, and commenced raising a mound.
Whilst they were engaged in carrying earth for the completion of the mound,
and cutting trenches round it, the captain of the Polish garrison came, on the
part of lladzivil, to beg for mercy; which was granted; and the town surrendered.
Within the stone walls was a high earthen wall ; in the centre of which they
had built a towering wooden fort of great strength. To this fort the Musco
vites set fire, by means of bombs from without : for the Emperor has cannon
resembling ^Uai', each an ell in length, and of equal calibre, which they
charge with balls composed of pitch, sulphur, powder, £c. These, when
discharged, mount, we were told, to the skies ; and then descending on the
besieged town, set fire to it, and, throwing down every thing near them in ruins,
root up the very ground by their explosion.
We were informed, by several of the military who had been at the city of
Smolensko and assisted at its capture, that it is an extremely large and strong
place, surrounded with walls so thick, that two carriages abreast can be driven
along the top ; thus equalling the walls of Antioch. But the structure of the
walls of Smolensko is very singular : they are built entirely of immense quarry-
stones, laid together in such a manner that no division is perceptible between
them. This fort was erected by the ancestors of the present Emperor. Its
towers are seventy-three in number, all of vast dimensions, besides many which,
we were told, are outside the walls. The guns of each tower are corresponding
and on a level with those of the other towers ; so that no enemy can accost
the flanks of the walls, nor approach near them. It was not until after the
unremitting efforts of the Emperor's artillery, and a general cannonade all round
the fort, that, finding a place of inferior strength on which, the guns had made
some impression, the Muscovites at length threw down two towers with the
bastion which they flanked, having in vain endeavoured to produce any effect
on the remainder. This great conquest none had hoped to achieve, particularly
Y Y
336 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
as the great River Nieper flows under the most part of the walls. The surrender
was made on the condition, sworn to by the Emperor, that whoever desired it
should remain unmolested in the town, and that those who were unwilling to
stay might depart freely to whatever place they chose.
On taking possession of the city, the Muscovites found in it a great number
of Jews, disguised in the garb of Christians ; but they quickly detected them, by
their ignorance in not knowing how to make the sign of the Cross on their
foreheads. By command of the Emperor, they were all collected together ; and
he required of them, if they wished to save their lives, that they should be
baptized. Those who believed, and afterwards received baptism, he permitted
to live : the recusants he ordered to be placed in houses built of wood, which
were set fire to, and they were all burnt to death. Every church in the town
belonging to the Poles he razed to the ground, and gave orders for others to be
built on the spot.
The accursed Radzivil, son-in-law to Vasili Beg of Moldavia, and the origin
of all this war with its attendant evils, as soon as he heard that the Emperor
was marching out to the attack of this city, came at the head of thirty thousand
troops, to reach and enter it for its protection ; but he was intercepted by a large
detachment of the Emperor's forces, which surrounded him, and cut his whole
army to pieces. He himself escaped, with only a few of his suite, by contriving
to exchange his dress for that of a poor peasant. All his principal officers were
taken prisoners, with a number of others ; and credible persons assert, that,
being a great magician, he saved himself by the power of magic. Once they
overtook him ; but still he eluded their grasp, by stealing away from them
through the mud and reeds. This accursed wretch was, at the time I am
speaking of, the greatest of all the Polish Grandees, a mighty Hetman, and
governor of a large and well-known country which is called Molitfa, and also
of this town and province of Smolensko, over which his ancestors had gained
the sovereignty. Of all the countries belonging to the Poles, his was the finest,
being covered with impregnable stone fortresses for the space of two months'
journey, beginning from the vicinity of Danska or Dantzic, the celebrated town
which is the sea-port of the whole Polish territory. The Cral feared him much ;
and none besides him dared openly to oppose the will of the Emperor. He was
exceedingly hated by the whole body of the orthodox, and was tyrannical and
obstinate. His religion, we were informed, was the Lutheran ; that is, he fasted
only one day in every year, with the intention thus to complete the Great Lent
once in his whole life; and his prayer, performed secretly in his closet, was,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 337
''' Our Father, who art in heaven ;" in conformity, as he thought, with the
saying of Our Lord the Messiah, in his Holy Gospel. Vasili Beg of Moldavia
esteemed himself happy in marrying his daughter Mary to this Calvinist, hoping
he would be a support and assistance to him ; and no other hut this accursed
tyrant was the cause of the death of Timotheus, Chiniel's son. Great indeed
was the enmity between these two chiefs, Chmiel and Radzivil : the latter,
about three years ago, having passed, with a strong force, in a great number of
boats on the River Nieper, and seized the city of Kiov, with its dependencies,
by surprise ; burning, and destroying and slaughtering the inhabitants. Chmiel,
on hearing this, came upon him on a sudden, and cut to pieces all who had
accompanied him. Radzivil himself escaped by flight, with only a few attend
ants; leaving all his captives, ships, and money, in the hands of the conqueror.
Vasili used every exertion to make peace between the Poles and the Cossacks ;
but his efforts were rendered unavailing, by the malice of this wretch, who,
in presence of the ambassadors sent to the Cral by the Emperor, made sport of
the latter ; saying, " He is no Emperor : he is merely the Cral of Moscow : and
you may go and tell him, that I trample on him and his dignity." All this
arose from the excess of his pride and haughtiness. The Polish Cral, for his
part, had no inclination to encourage such behaviour. When the Emperor
heard this message, and what had been said of him, he was exceedingly angry ;
and sent to the Poles other ambassadors, a second and a third time, to propose
an accommodation ; requiring that they should style him Emperor of the Great
and Little Russia ; evacuate the territory of the Cossacks, leaving them unmo
lested ; surrender Smolensko peaceably into his hands ; and move no evil against
any of the inhabitants. But this accursed scoundrel refused to comply, until
God humbled his pride, as we shall relate in the sequel.
SECT. III.
RUSSfAN MERCHANTS.— WAR WITH THE POLES.
ON this, the Emperor, as our informant went on to state, assembled the chief
officers of his government, the grandees of the empire, the chief merchants,
and the rich men of the capital ; and forming a great council, laid before them
all these affairs, saying : " For my part, I am ready to stake my life for the love
of oui- Holy Religion, for the protection of our Christian brethren the Cossacks,
338 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and to effect the deliverance of the Petcherskoi Convent, and others, from the
slavery of our enemies the Poles." With this speech all were greatly delighted,
and in particular the Patriarch, who much incited him to march out against
the Poles : and the principal of the merchants said, in answer to the Emperor :
" We request your majesty not to expend your own treasures in the pay of the
army, and by no means to take upon yourself the costs of this war. We, the
merchants, will grant you a sufficiency of money to prosecute your designs, for
the benefit of our Religion, and for the subjugation of our enemies, the accursed
Poles." Immediately, therefore, a proclamation was issued by the Emperor, for
the march of an expedition ; and the merchant above mentioned, from the
abundance of his wealth, presented to his sovereign a sum of six hundred
thousand roubles. The value of a rouble, which is the word in the Russian lan
guage for a dinar, is two rials. On presenting this money to the Emperor, the
merchant said to him : " This is an offering which I make to your majesty, from
the stores which God has blessed me with, of his bounty, during the days of your
glorious reign." This person was the greatest merchant in the capital : he was
reported to pay, every year, into the imperial treasury one hundred thousand
dinars in duties on the merchandise which he received from the country of the
Franks, and from Persia and India, in return for the goods which he stored in
his warehouses, which were beyond all computation. His celebrity was in pro
portion to his immense wealth ; and, indeed, all the great merchants here are so
vastly rich, that they count their riches by millions. The mansion and palaces
of this merchant we afterwards viewed in Moscow, and found them larger and
more magnificent than the palaces of our Vazirs. He had built for himself a
beautiful church, of which we never saw the equal even in the Emperor's palace ;
on which he was said to have expended more than fifty thousand dinars, so great
was his love for Religion and good works. When the rest of the merchants, and
the great men of the capital, and the chief officers of Government, saw that the
said person had presented this sum of money, they became jealous of him ; and,
endeavouring to rival him, they all made offerings to the Emperor of large
sums, so that the money thus collected was sufficient for all the expenses of the
army during the whole of the year, and for the entire expedition ; and the
Emperor was in no need of opening his treasury at all. The Patriarch was said
to have offered his majesty a present of about one hundred chests filled with
money, as his own private contribution ; but the Emperor refused to accept it,
saying: " The sums which my Christian brethren have presented to me are
quite sufficient." The monasteries, also, made him offerings of immense wealth ;
TRAVELS OF MACARTUS. 3.39
the Convent of the Trinity alone having contributed more than one hundred
thousand dinars. The Heads of the Clergy, imitating this example, equipped
for the war upwards of twenty thousand armed men, principally taken from the
service of their Convents. At the head of these were the troops belonging to
the Patriarch.
Having formed a large camp without the city, the Emperor made a Yakehna,
or enumeration of his forces, a task which required a considerable time to
effect ; and it was computed that the number of men who received rations
amounted to upwards of seven hundred thousand, according to the account
given by the Patriarch of Moscow, to Patalaron, the deposed Patriarch of Con
stantinople, on being asked concerning this matter. Of this body of men, one
hundred and forty-four thousand were infantry ; the rest were all cavalry. For
his body guard the Emperor selected three hundred thousand to be about
his person, forty thousand of whom were equipped from his own armoury. To
Chmiel, Hetman of the Cossacks, he sent princely robes, with a sword and
Turkish mace ; and on all his great officers he bestowed military uniforms.
He also took into his pay forty thousand of the Cossack troops, bettering then-
condition much, and fitting them out for war. At length, God granted him his
favour ; so that he made the conquest of the great city of Smolensko, and
defeated his chief enemy, Radzivil. In the mean time, his various officers sub
dued upwards of ninety-four towns and castles, by storm and voluntary surrender ;
killing God only knows how many Jews, Armenians, and Poles, and throwing
their children, packed in barrels, into the great River Nieper, without mercy ;
for nothing can exceed the hatred which the Muscovites bear to all classes of
heretics and infidels. All the men, without exception, they cut to pieces, not
sparing one : the women and children they carried into slavery, after destroying
their habitations, so as to leave their towns entirely desolate. Thus the country
of the Poles, which formerly was proverbially rich, and bore a comparison with
the finest provinces of Greece, now became a vast scene of ruin, where not a
village nor an inhabitant was to be found in a fifteen-days' journey in length and
breadth. We were informed that more than one hundred thousand of the
enemy were reduced to captivity, so that seven or eight boys and girls were sold
for a dinar and less ; and many of them we ourselves saw. In the towns which
they took by capitulation they spared all those inhabitants, and allowed them to
remain, who embraced the Faith and were baptized : the rest were all expelled :
but the towns which they captured at the point of the sword they totally cleared
of their inhabitants, and levelled their houses and fortifications to the ground.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
One of the places captured was the city of Mohilov, so much celebrated, among
the mercantile class, lor its riches, as all its inhabitants are extremely rich mer
chants. And because the Governor, who commanded there on the part of
Radzivil, surrendered by capitulation, after a long and severe siege, and, makin"
his submission to the Emperor, embraced the faith and was baptized, the Em
peror continued him in his post, confirming him as Voivode of the town, in
conjunction with one of his own Vazirs. The whole of this conquered country
was under the government of Radzivil, and his private domain. The Emperor
gave orders forthwith for the repair of the towers which had been thrown down
in the ramparts of the city of Smolensko, and for the restoration of its walls and
fortifications ; and having appointed two Voivodes to reside there, with a garrison
of thirty thousand troops, he stored it witli provisions and ammunition. After
wards he moved away to a town called Fiazma, which was formerly the frontier
between his territory and that of the Poles ; where he remained until the end of
the Festival of the Immersion, waiting for the plague to cease. From the
moment of his departure for this expedition till the present time, he had sent
orders to guard all his frontier towns ; so that not a single person should be
permitted to travel away from them, lest the report of the plague should be
spread abroad. Afterwards they brought the principal officers of the accursed
Radzivil, whom they had made prisoners, in a boat from Kalokha to this town
of Kalomna, to conduct them hence to Cazan, to be deposited in the prisons
there. They were about three hundred in number ; who, after having been
commanders and rich men, were now reduced to poverty and disgrace, so that
our hearts were distressed at the sight of their wretched condition.
SECT. IV.
CEREMONIES OF ORDINATION.— WINTER SEASON, AND MARKETS.—
TREATMENT OF DOGS.
To return to our description of this country and climate. — In the month of
llol, the days and nights here are equal ; but towards the end of the month the
nights begin to exceed the days in length, so that by the Feast of Saint Barbara
the day is reduced to seven hours, whilst the night is lengthened to seventeen.
On the Festival of St. Demetrius, our Lord the Patriarch performed mass
in the Cathedral Church ; and this was the first day of the cold season. Also, on
the Sunday of the Carnival of the Nativity he performed mass there, and ordained
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. %\.\
Priests. It is the custom of the Bishop here, when he performs mass, to vest his
robes, sitting on a throne with three high steps in front, which is placed in the
porch. Under his feet, when lie stands up, they spread a round piece of woollen
cloth, beautifully dyed of various colours, having in the centre the figure of not
one eagle only, but several ; and these were placed, by the 'AvayvwVra/, under
the feet of our master, whenever he stood up ; whilst we always held him by the
shoulders, and the ' Avot,yva<rrct,t belonging to the church stood round him, one
of them holding his crosier behind him. Before mass, we used to perform a
FLuguxhriffis for the Emperor ; and after they had recited the Hours, according
to custom, they then commenced the mass, during which the 'Avayt/<yVra< chaunted
"Ayiog within the tabernacle £c.
It is to be observed, that it is the practice of all the Greeks, and here also,
that at the ordination of a Priest or a Deacon they do not lead him forth to
make a Proclamation over him, as we do ; but he is led out by two Deacons
from the royal door, and in again, whilst they say K&evirov AsWora^Ayis, and
bow witli their heads three times : then they lead him round the altar, and at
each turn he receives the blessing of a Chief-priest on his head. After these
circuits he makes three Merotvotai to the altar, and, kneeling down, is again
blessed three times. On rising, he kisses the altar, and receives three other
blessings, as before. Then, after being clothed in the clerical dress, if he is
ordained Priest, he has given to him the Kovra*;, or Breviary, of the mass ; if
Deacon, the fan, or otherwise jwXJl yLJJII .
The mass in this country is performed with all possible reverence, awe, and
veneration; and the Priest does not recite the ^Jb! or any thing that he has to
say, nor the Deacon the Prone, with a very loud voice, as we do, but with
calmness, and a quiet sedate humility : as do also the chaunters, particularly
when a Bishop is engaged in the ordination of a Priest ; then his voice is very
gentle, and none hear it but those who are present with him in the tabernacle-.
This mode of reading low we now learnt from them.
On the second Sunday of Advent, our Lord the Patriarch again performed
mass, and ordained Priests and Deacons, in the upper church ; where they had
heated the stove since the night before, on account of the severity of the cold
which now came on. For this purpose the Bishop had built this church, and
placed a stove in the cellar under it ; that when he said mass in it during the
cold weather, they might on the preceding evening heat the stove with much
wood, and in the morning, by opening the flues above, admit the warm air into
the church, so that it became heated like a bath.
31.2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
The course of the weather in this country of Moscow is,, that from the
Festival of the Cross till the beginning of the Christmas Lent there are very
high winds during the night, with heavy rains ; and from the beginning of the
Lent commence huge falls of snow, which succeed each other, without a thaw,
until the month of Nisan. This snow freezes in layer upon layer, till, from the
thickness and universal spread of the ice, the roads become impassable on foot,
presenting everywhere the appearance of a mass of polished marble ; and the
fields, from the depth of the snow lying on them, here and there to several
heights of man, are rendered altogether impervious. During this season, the
santas, which are sliding carriages, traverse the country like the caiques or barm s
in the waters of Constantinople ; and, whilst this frost continues, the markets
everywhere are plentifully supplied with provisions, at the cheapest rate. In
every sania we used to see six persons seated, with their goods in stowage, all
drawn by a single horse. The immense loads of agricultural produce, and the huge
stones transported by these carriages, excited our surprise ; for that which one
horse draws here could not be drawn by twenty horses in our country. At these
times they used to import into Kalomna all their large and finely chiselled tomb
stones, which twenty horses in the ordinary way would not move, in sanias, by
one or two at a draught, with their owners mounted upon them, with a single
horse. It was really surprising to behold ; and the whole expense of a huge
stone brought from a very great distance would be only three dinars. This
facility of transport is the cause of the great prosperity of this country, and of
the abundant comforts of life which its inhabitants enjoy; provisions of all kinds,
and at the lowest price, being conveyed during the winter to Moscow, from the
remotest parts of the empire. This traffic is principally carried on about Christ
mas, at which time they buy and sell the whole of their yearly products. Sliding
with the greatest swiftness over the ice, the sledges proceed at the rate of one
hundred versts in a day through this country of palaces ; and we used to see
the goods, which were bought in the markets, stowed by the purchasers, whether
men, women, or children, in very small sledges, and drawn by the hand with a
cord without difficulty or fatigue, but with the most gentle motion, by the
person walking on before. In this way the women draw their children about
in sledges.
Throughout the wrhole of this great empire no street dogs whatever are to
be seen abroad. All their dogs are confined within their houses ; and there is
not a house, either of a man in powrer or of a rich man, nor of the poorest
labourer, without a dog or two. These are as vivid as fire ; are constantly tied
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3J.3
ii]) nt home, with iron chains round their necks, and lying in wooden kennels
built for them to stay in during the day ; at night are let loose, to roam
about the inclosure ; being always fed with flesh, and having milk usually given
them to drink. In consequence of this treatment, which we describe as we saw,
every dog of them is equal to fight a trooper, and is too fierce to allow any
person to approach him.
The first week of the Fast of the Nativity, the River of Moscow, with all the
rivers, and even the lakes throughout the country, were frozen over, and so
remained until the middle of the month Nisan ; so that after being accustomed
to pass the former in large boats,, we now crossed it with dusty feet ; unable to
distinguish it from the solid ground, and not knowing where it was situated, but
from the wells which they dug in it, to draw up water with buckets made of
wooden staves, or the bark of the jlamor-tYee, the pieces of which, in the same
moment that they are soaked in water, unite closely, and become like one. These
buckets, of such strange and wonderful construction, are in general use through
out the country. On the rivers, thus frozen, they pass along in sledges -with
great rapidity, far exceeding the speed of their progress over the frozen earth ;
because the former are free from the ascents and descents which must be encoun
tered on the latter, and are as smooth and even as polished marble. At the
same time that the rivers froze^ all the moist provisions, in the houses, cellars, and
shops, froze also ; and the oil which we bought during this weather was like
manna or candied sugar. As for honey, it became as hard as a stone ; and so
did every egg, too hard to be broken. The fish were no sooner caught from
the river than they froze, and rattled against each other like pieces of dry wood ;
and thus they continued frozen until the month of Adar, without experiencing
the smallest damage. After laying the fish over the stove to thaw, we then
washed and cooked it with a great deal of trouble. The manner of catching
fish during this season is very curious. The fishermen walk over to the middle of
the river, where they break the ice in the manner of a deep well : to this opening
all the fish thereabouts come, for the purpose of inhaling the air : in the mean
time, the nets are let down and drawn together, and there is brought up in them
a very large quantity, much exceeding the draughts in the summer season. On
this account, fish is extremely cheap here in winter. In the bellies of all the
fish of this country are found bags of caviare, which is a very delicious meat.
At the Festival of the Immersion, presents were made to our Lord the Patriarch
of some beautiful live fish, in vessels full of water, resembling the fish which is
caught in the river at Aleppo, and is called Abo Sharib : this appeared to us
Z z
34 1 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
a very great curiosity. At the same time they presented to him honey in the
comb, frozen, and as white as snow, of which they have great abundance at this
season. ; and also fine apples of admirable flavour.
The market-days in this city of Kalomna are Monday and Thursday ; on which
the whole of the inhabitants of the town and country assemble in the market
place ; each of the country people, with their various kinds of commodities, in a
sledge. They used to bring with them large and small pigs ready killed and
scalded, which, being frozen, stood erect in the sledges, as if they were alive :
they were fine animals, and very cheap. They brought also geese, ducks, and
turkeys, which they likewise sell ready plucked.
The strength and seventy of the cold were beyond expression ; for when they
fetched water to the houses in barrels from the river, it used to freeze by the
way, and would only thaw in a heated room. Even whilst the water-carrier
was dipping his bucket in the river, the ice would form on it, in layer upon layer :
and when they were washing the plates, they used to stick to each other, on being
placed in piles ; and would become one solid mass, only to be loosened by the
fire-side. The leaves even of the cabbages were frozen within them. This
vegetable is remarkably fine in this country, and is sold washed and cleaned of
its outward leaves. We used to buy a sledge-load of it, containing a hundred
large cabbages, for five or six copecks only. Cabbages, carrots, radishes, &c.
are pulled from the ground before the snow falls ; and are put into the cellars,
whence they are brought out at this season of the year, to be sold as they
are wanted.
Another consequence of the great cold was, that the breath issuing from the
mouth and nostrils of a man froze upon his beard and mustaches, in flake upon
flake ; so that, instead of black, they became perfectly white, and could not be
cleared of the ice but by approaching the fire. Whenever we went out of the
house, the moisture even withinside our noses used to freeze and block up the
passage ; and the water which a man made on a wall, or on the ground, would
instantly turn into ice. All the spouts and gutters on the tops of our chambers
were blocked up. None of us could for a moment bear to take off the fur-
coverings from his hands and nose. The frost and snow penetrated through the
joints of the doors and windows, though they were covered with leather and
woollen-cloths to exclude the air. No light could be seen through the panes of
crystal in the windows ; for they became like pieces of opaque marble with the
incrustation of the hoar-frost upon them, of which it was impossible to keep them
clear. The houses here, being all built of wood, used to crack in the night-time
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3-1-0
from the severity of the cold, and make a noise as loud as the report of a gun.
Through the crevices, thus formed, the light would appear, after all the pains
that had been taken to make an air-tight apartment. The sign of an approaching
severity of frost was when, at the commencement of the evening, the nails of the
doors inside began to be covered with shining crystals of white ice, notwith
standing the quantity of wood-fire wre made up morning and evening in the
stoves, raising the temperature of the rooms to that of a hot-bath. On this
account we said our Matins and Vespers at home, when they were of indispensable
necessity, as on the eve of a Sunday or festival ; and the mass only we performed
in the church. But we were unable to stand upon both our legs during the
performance : whilst we supported ourselves on one, we were obliged to lift up
the other from the cold floor, though our feet were covered with three or four
socks each, made of cloth, felt, and fur : yet all the doors of the church were care
fully closed. As for the Muscovites, they intermitted not to perform the midnight
service on any one occasion, so that we were astonished at their perseverance.
But they are prepared to withstand the cold ; for they are all clothed, both men,
women, and children, in long close dresses with sleeves, well lined, both inside
and out, with black fur, fitted to the shapes of their bodies. From their
hands they never take off a kind of large cuff made of knitted wool, fur, or leather,
as warm as fire in winter, with which they do all their work, even to drawing
water from the river, and every other species of menial employment. In summer,
they wear them of leather only ; and work in them, that their hands may not be
injured ; a remarkable delicacy in the poor people here : the rich have them of
fine cloth fringed with sables ; for no Russian can endure to touch any common
thing with his naked hand : even to hold the reins, when guiding their cattle,
they use gloves.
At this season the entire surface of the lands and roads became like a slab of
marble ; on which no person could walk without great difficulty, as he would
instantly slip. On this account the nails of their boots were made to stick out
like thorns, to penetrate the ice ; and their cattle were rough shod in the same
way, to prevent them from slipping. But their movements are principally made
in sledges, though only from their houses to the market-place ; and the expedi
tions of the couriers are performed in these carriages. Their progress is speedier
than that of a saddle-horse ; and, moreover, the rider of the latter is subject every
moment to fall and break his bones on the slippery ground, or, if he can hold on
long, to be frozen to death by the cold. The cattle and other animals are all
tied up in the houses in winter, and are supplied with their usual fodder :
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
they give them water to drink every morning and evening : but instead of being
exercised and curried, they are allowed to roll themselves on the snow every
clay ; and frequently they eat the snow, making it serve them instead of draughts
of water.
SECT. V.
I-FFECTS OF THE PLAGUE.— REGULATIONS FOR HOLY ORDERS 8f MATRIMONY.
CIVILITY AND PIETY OF THE MUSCOVITES.
To return. — On the third Sunday of the Fast of the Nativity, our Lord the
Patriarch said mass in the upper church ; and ordained Priests and Deacons for
the Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, the Cathedral of the city of Kashira.
This ordination was occasioned by the fatal effects of the plague, in consequence
of which most of the Clergy died. The cathedral church of this city of Kalomna,
for instance, had formerly seven Priests and as many Deacons ; but they all fell
victims to the pestilence, except two of the latter, who outlived it. After the
celebration of mass had ceased in all the churches around it, here on no day had
it been omitted until now ; when it ceased altogether here also, and the congre
gations were dispersed for want of Priests. Afterwards, a Curate was brought,
every Sunday only, from some village, to say mass in the cathedral. For these
reasons they applied to our Lord the Patriarch to ordain Priests for them, in the
place of the deceased. When the plague reached the town of Kashira also,
and destroyed both the people and the Priests, there set forth thence a deputa
tion to our Lord the Patriarch, driving, at the utmost speed, in sledges drawn by
horses along the surface of the rivers Oka and Moskwa, (which we had passed in
boats) accompanied by two Deacons ; in the hand of each of whom was a testi
monial, from the Voivode, the Janissaries, the Cannoniers, and the Portaria,
that is, the Gatekeepers guarding the Castle, that he was worthy of the proposed
dignity. They bowed down therefore to the Patriarch, and threw themselves on
the earth before him, beating their heads on the ground as usual, and saying :
" Gosudari Pomilui ! and ordain for us these Deacons to the priesthood, that they
may look to the care of our souls, and open for us our churches to mass." He
complied with their request, by ordaining the two Deacons : and we had an
opportunity to admire their humility, and the high degree of Christian faith
which they displayed throughout this whole transaction.
It is the custom with the Bishops in this country, when they ordain a Priest or
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. .'U7
a Deacon, not to allow him to return to his home and church until he has said
mass at least fifteen times in the cathedral, that the Priests may teach him the
best method,, and that he may not depart without being perfectly well instructed,
so that no one shall be able to scoff at him for his awkwardness ; — a laudable
accuracy, well deserving of notice. After the ordination, they wrote for them a
r^a^act 'Iffrotrixov in their language, translated from the tongue of our Lord the
Patriarch, setting forth that he had ordained Priest such an one, from such a
town, for the service of such a church, on testimonials of the inhabitants of the
said place : for each of the candidates used to bring with him a written docu
ment,, witnessing that he was a worthy person, and had been married to one
wife and no more. After the Patriarch had set his signature and seal on this
'Iffrartxov, the newly-ordained Ministers received it, and departed. Furnished
with this document, they were under no fear from any visit of a Bishop, in his
rounds ; who, if he found any person exercising the Clerical functions without
such a certificate from the prelate who ordained him, would immediately suspend
and punish him.
The officers of the bishopric, from every Priest newly ordained, received a
dinar, for the Episcopal Treasury : and so from every person desiring to be mar
ried they took a piaster for the marriage-certificate, and for entering his name
in their register. This is an excellent regulation ; for thus no one dares to take
a wife, throughout the whole jurisdiction of the bishopric, but by their per
mission. They exercise a very great severity in regard to the seven degrees of
consanguinity ; not allowing that promiscuous intercourse prevalent among the
Wallachians and Moldavians, who copulate like brute beasts : and in every part
of Muscovy this discipline is observed.
On the eve of the Festival of St. Nicolas, we assisted at the short Vespers
(Mixgov'EffTregivoi) in a church on the basement of the cathedral. Here were
congregated all who survived, both of those who inhabited the city, and of the
neighbouring villagers, whether men, women, or children, male or female. They
have a regular custom, when they come to church, to bring with them a taper,
in which a copeck is stuck ; which they set before the image of the Saint, patron
of the church, and before all the images around.
It is a custom, also, when any Chief-priest among them gives any thing, of
what kind soever, to a person of the common people, he bows his head to that
person at the same time that he presents it, though it be only to a boy or to a
woman. In like manner the Voivode bows his head to the poorest ; and the
Priests do so even to the women and children. All ranks are in the habit of
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
constantly bowing to each other ; and this bending of the head is their usual
salutation in the streets, morning and evening. This is all a token of the fruit
of humility ; for pride is entirely eradicated from the midst of them, and haughti
ness is held by them in the greatest detestation. Thus we saw and witnessed :
and God is witness to us, that we walked among them after the manner of the
canonized Saints ; refraining from all mirth, conviviality, and jests, and observing
the purest morality of the Gospel, by the necessity of our situation, not by choice.
At midnight, the bells were tolled for matins ; and we arose to attend the
service. On entering the above-mentioned church, we found the young women
and girls assembled before the men and boys, having hastened thither in
crowds, with tapers in their hands. Out of love for St. Nicolas, the con
gregation was immense ; and as the church was small, the greater part of
them stood without, in the frosty air, with their heads uncovered, according to
custom, from midnight until break of day. After they had read the Swafa^a
for Nones, at the conclusion of the service, we left the church, exhausted with
the fatigue of standing, and shivering with cold ; and after the fourth hour of
the day, on the tolling of the bells, we re-entered the church to mass, which
was performed by our Lord the Patriarch. But, previously, he made an
'AyiafffAog, with which he sprinkled the church and congregation. Through
the severity of the cold, the water was frozen in the vessel, and we had to break
the ice in order to dip the cross. Afterwards a Priest was ordained; and we did
not go forth from mass until the evening.
We were told, that throughout the whole country of Moscow they perform
the Matins so as to last through the night ; and that after the stroke of the fifth
hour of the day they never go in to mass, nor go forth from it till the evening ;
so that their dinner necessarily becomes a supper meal ; for the day in these
months of Canon the First and Second consists of six hours and a half; the
night, of seventeen and a half. During this season the sun rises between the
east and the south, and sets between the south and the west ; and every day,
for these whole two months, is dark and gloomy, so that the day-time can hardly
be distinguished from the night-time.
On the Festival of St. Spiridion, the Wonder-worker, our Lord the
Patriarch said mass in the upper church, and ordained Priests and Deacons.
The occasion of this was, that the Prior of the convent called Sebasti, that is,
the Convent of the Manifestation, situated amidst the streets of this city, had
four sons Priests, who all died with their wives and children, leaving their
houses empty, and their churches vacant ; and he asked our Lord the Patriarch
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. ,3 [9
to ordain him some Priests in their room. So also, on the Sunday ruv 'Ayiw
ngovuroguv, he celebrated mass,, and ordained Priests and Deacons. On the
Feast of St. Ignatius there was assembled a large congregation ; and on this
day was the appointed time for the slaughter of hogs, and for making bacon,
the provision of which, prepared at this season, lasts them from year to year.
They likewise killed oxen and sheep for their eating during the festival of
Christmas ; as on that day no slaughter takes place.
SECT. VI.
LIFE OF ST. PETER OF KIO V.— CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES.
MODE OF PETITIONING.
THE next evening, also, there was a numerous assemblage, on the occasion of
the Feast of St. Peter, Chief of the Bishops of Kiov, which is Little Russia, and
of the whole of the country of Moscow or Great Russia. It is he whose image
we made mention of before, as being executed in mosaic, in the chancel of
St. Sophia. This Saint was the first metropolitan that sat in the city of
Kiov, in the reign of the Emperor Basil the Macedonian, when the Cossacks,
with their prince, embraced the faith. He was sent to them by that Emperor ;
being by birth, as his history informs us, a Greek of Constantinople. On his
arrival among the Cossacks, and preaching to them the Messiah, they put him
to severe trials, and said to him : " We will light up a great fire ; and if you pass
through it, in your sacerdotal robes, with the Gospel in your hand, unhurt, we
will believe in your God." The fire was lighted ; he passed through it unhurt ;
and they all embraced the faith. He baptized them in the River Nieper ; con
firmed them in their belief ; and built for them some magnificent churches, such
as St. Sophia and others. He then came into Muscovy, where he performed
a like miracle : from that time forth, the Muscovites yielded their faith to
Christ through his hands, and he built for them the splendid churches which
remain until now. He sat as the first Metropolitan in the See of Moscow, with
jurisdiction over the whole of the Greater Russia. They give him the title of
Protosronos, that is, First of the Metropolitans. To the bishopric of Kiov he
appointed another, as his successor. It was he who built the second walls of the
city of Moscow, which are outside the palace-walls, and are called by his name.
Here he died; and his body remains to the present day, inclosed in a silver coffin,
surrounded by a high balustrade of beautiful silver rails. We afterwards paid
350 TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS.
our devotions to these reliques, which are placed in the third chapel, on the north
side of the Great Church, which is the Patriarchal See. The Muscovites have
great faith in him ; and are continually repairing, in crowds of men, women, and
children, among whom are sometimes Princes and Princesses, to his tomb.
On the Friday, which was the Eve of the Nativity, the bells were tolled ; first
for the Hours ; and afterwards for mass, from which none went forth until the
evening. On the Sunday (^wxl) our Lord the Patriarch performed mass in the
Great Church, and ordained Priests and Deacons. The frost was this day so
severe, that we were shrivelled by it; and our hands were benumbed within our
fur sleeves, from which we could not venture to put them forth for an instant.
Our legs dropped under us, and we suffered most dreadful tortures. The lid of
the silver ewer which held the water for the service was cemented by the frost,
and the Deacon was unable to pour out any water at the time that it was
wanted. Even the wine within its vessel became like a crust, or rather a solid
piece of rock, and could be dissolved only by being placed on the fire. The
most wonderful of all was, that the elements of the sacred mysteries froze in the
cup, and were turned into stone ; though the Deacon, after pouring water from the
jug into the cup, always with great care covers the latter with the xuXvpuu, and
keeps it so. The Corpus Christi ( ^| j^Jl) also, and the 'Avrtiuou, froze, and
became like stones, so as to be unlit for mastication. Notwithstanding all this,
we assisted at the church services with our heads uncovered ; for it is the custom
with the Greeks, and in this country equally, for the Priests and Deacons to be
always bareheaded, from the beginning of the mass till the end ; but here they
stand uncovered during all the rest of the service also ; and we were compelled,
however unwilling, to follow their example ; so that on leaving the church,
during this season, we were, God knows, nearly blind with cold, and for days
together were deprived of hearing, our ears being shrivelled up with the frost.
If we had not had the precaution to let our hair grow, as the Muscovites
do, we should have gone blind altogether ; but the Almighty assisted us. The
worst of all was, that we did not leave the church until evening ; and then
scarcely had we seated ourselves at table, when the bells were again tolled
for Vespers, at which we must rise to give our attendance. What is to be
thought of this persevering assiduity, from which this pious nation never deviates
in its attention to all the offices of Religion, amidst the most trying circum
stances ? Are we to suppose them insensible to fatigue, and to believe that they
can live without eating ; that they are never to be satiated with the most con
stant succession of prayers and metanoias, standing up to them on their legs
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 351
during the whole time, with their heads uncovered in the coldest weather,
without the smallest appearance of weariness or faintness from the length of the
service, which is always so excessive ?
On the Eve of Christmas-day, the Priests and Deacons, after service, waited on
our Lord the Patriarch, with the picture of the Nativity and the Crosses,
chaunting the Christmas Hymn, £c., in like manner as wras done in Moldavia
and Wallachia : then they performed the HoXv^goviov for the Emperor ; and
another for the Antiochian Patriarch, who gave them a gratuity, and they
departed. This they repeated on the morrow, which was the morning of
Monday, the Festival of the Nativity.
On the day beginning the year One thousand six hundred and fifty-five from
the Divine Incarnation, the bells were tolled at midnight, and the people arose
to prayer. As for us, we had no strength to perform the prayers in the church,
being rendered incapable of such a service by the intensity of the cold ; but we
discharged this duty in our own apartments, after we had lighted up the tapers
before all the images within them, and withoutside the doors. Such is the
custom here : and should there be in any of their houses even a hundred images,
they light a taper before each, both morning and evening ; every image being
furnished with a branch candlestick fastened in the wall. At mass-time, the bells
were tolled after the fourth hour of the day ; and our Lord the Patriarch went
down to the celebration, out of love and respect for the name of the Emperor.
He also ordained Priests and Deacons. We were again detained in the church
until the evening, and were nearly dead with hunger and cold ; yet we had not
sufficient time to eat our dinners before the bells recommenced tolling for
Vespers, and we arose to the performance.
It may be noted, that from a week before Christmas, till the Feast of the
Immersion, a great fair takes place in Moscow, for buying and selling goods of
all kinds ; and this is the season when provisions are cheap, as they are brought
from the remotest parts of the country.
On the second and third day of the festival, our Lord the Patriarch said mass
in the upper church, after they had lighted up the stove from the preceding
evening, and ordained Priests and Deacons : for when the report spread over the
country, that the Patriarch of Antioch was conferring the sacerdotal dignity,
persons began to flock to him from every hollow vale, bringing presents of fish,
butter, honey, &c., accompanied with jolofitdt or petitions, praying that he would
grant them this favour. These new Priests used very much to excite our
admiration ; for without a moment's delay, they clothed themselves in the sacer-
AA
352 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
dotal dress, which is a cloth cassock with a broad-laced collar, and,, shaving a
large circle on the top of the head, plaited the hair over their foreheads., and
drew it behind their ears, as the women do. The only part of their hair which
they shave, is on the crown of the head ; the rest they allow to grow : and by
this slight change they appeared, suddenly, as though they were Priests of many
years' standing : for the Muscovites are exceedingly quick in their apprehension
of any thing that is taught them.
A remarkable custom in this country is, that when any person presents himself
with a petition before the Emperor, or a Governor, Patriarch, Bishop, or Priest,
and after humbling himself in supplication, finds that his prayer is not conceded
to his many metanoias, he then beats his head on the ground, and thus perseveres ;
refusing to raise it, until his petition is granted.
SECT. VII.
CONDITION OF THE CLERGY.— FESTIVAL OF THE IMMERSION.
A PRIEST in Muscovy is a personage of very great dignity, before whom
Governors and other Magistrates stand in fear and awe, whilst he is seated.
Every Clergyman, whether Priest or Deacon, has a permanent stipend ; and they
have, moreover, an abundance of provisions at the cheapest rate, as they are all
possessed of forms, which are worked by their serfs. We were told that the
annual stipend allowed to the Protopapas, by the Emperor, is fifteen roubles,
and a piece of fine cloth : the inferior Clergy have proportionate allowances*
according to their degrees, and cloth of lower price : the Deacon has one half.
Their articles of food are brought to their houses by their land-bailiffs; and
besides their pension from the Emperor, they are privileged with an exemption
from all duty upon their commodities. The Protopapas of Kalomna has a village
bequeathed to him, consisting of a hundred houses or more, of which the entire
produce is consigned into his hands. He has, besides, a large house for his
mansion ; but neither this nor the village belongs to him as his private property :
being held of the Emperor, they pass to the use of the Protopapas for the time
being.
On the death of the Protopapas, one of the inferior Priests repairs to the
Emperor, taking with him a certificate, from the town Magistracy, that he is worthy
to succeed to the dignity. When it happens to be the Festival of the Cathedral
Church, they make before mass an 'Ay^ao-^o?, of which the Protopapas Elect
takes a portion in a vessel, and, accompanied by the Protodiaconos, waits on
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 353
the Emperor, to present it to him : the Emperor then invests them with robes
of honour belonging to their office.
On Monday the Festival of the Circumcision, our Lord the Patriarch said
mass in the Cathedral Church, and ordained Priests. Previously to the mass,
he made an ' Ayicurpog ; but the severity of the cold was such, that the water
froze in the vessel, though it had been poured in boiling ; as during this season,
when they make an ' Ay i cur peg, they always boil the water first, that it may not
suddenly freeze. After the cross had been dipped, and placed on the table
cloth, it stuck to it ; and after they had finished the mass, we were unable to
fold up our robes, for our fingers were benumbed and chapped ; yet, in the
midst of all this cold, we had to remain with our heads uncovered, so that we
suffered greatly.
On Friday the Ilotgupov?! of the Immersion, the bells rang from an early
hour in the morning, till the time when they came out from church in the
evening; and our Lord the Patriarch went down to pray over the water, accord
ing to custom. The water had been boiled ; but still it froze ; and it was with
difficulty that the ice was broken to dip the cross, for the cold increased in
severity.
On the morning of Saturday the Feast of the Immersion, the bells were
tolled at the third hour ; and all the Priests within the city, as well as those of the
neighbouring villages, with their congregations, assembled, and came as usual
to the great church, where they robed. Then they clothed our Lord the
Patriarch in his vestments ; and went out before us in great procession, walking
two and two, and carrying large and small images, the large being borne
between two. After them walked the Deacons, with large crosses, fans, and
lamps ; and they were followed by us, until we passed through the gate of the
city, and came to the celebrated river of Moscow (the Moskwa). On the
preceding day they had dug a deep hole, as large as a fish-pond, through ice
five spans thick, round which they had set a fence of stakes and boards, as a
precaution, lest, as had often happened, the ice should give way, by the pressure
of the crowd. From the bank of the river, to this spot, a platform was laid
of wooden planks, to walk on ; and across the middle of the pool, a broad
gallery was constructed, having a pair of wooden steps w?ell secured to it,
for the Patriarch to go down by to the water, when he should have to make
the sign of the cross upon it, and for him to rest his knees upon. The
people from the villages dug many other holes in the river, about which
they stationed themselves, with their cattle. Round the inclosed fence were
354 TRAVELS OF MACAIIIUS.
arranged the Clergy ; whilst, withinside, our Lord the Patriarch stood on a
carpet spread for him before a chair provided for his use. Then they began the
Prayers &c. When the Patriarch came to that part of the service where he
was to dip the cross in the water three times, several layers of ice had already
been formed upon it, and it became necessary to break through them. This
was done with brazen pitchers ; and after the third immersion, all the people
took of the water in their vessels from the holes which they had dug, and gave
to their horses to drink. Thousands and thousands of persons had assembled
from the villages, having heard that it was the intention of the Patriarch of
Antioch to bless the water. Then the Patriarch came out upon the platform ;
and began to asperge the Grandees first, and afterwards the Clergy. In con
sequence of the intense cold, it was wonderful to see the drops of water freeze
on the bristles of the hogs, as he sprinkled them : and on the sleeves and
collars of the people these drops became like glass spangles shining in the light.
Even the beards and mustaches of the men were covered and whitened with
hoar-frost, their breath instantly freezing as it issued from their nostrils ; nor
could the icicles be removed without such violence as almost to draw the hairs
along with them. The sun was risen ; but no hope arose to us that we should
be able to go through the hardships of this day, and we abandoned ourselves
to despair. God, however, was pleased to assist us and save us, though our
hands and feet and noses were nearly bitten off by the frost, notwithstanding
the tight fur gloves which were doubled on our hands, and the thick fur boots
which inclosed our feet and legs, besides the many fur cloaks with which we
were entirely enveloped. But the great wonder was, to behold all, wli ether
Clergy or laity, standing bareheaded in this intense cold, from the earliest hour
of the morning until we went forth from mass in the evening.
At the conclusion of the ceremony on the river, we returned the way we
came ; our Lord the Patriarch sprinkling the men and women on the right and
left, until we arrived at the great church. All this time the bells of all the
churches were ringing, both as we went and returned ; and under the steps of
the Cathedral, one of the Priests stood to incense the Clergy one by one, as
they entered. Last of all, the Patriarch ascended the steps ; and having entered
the church, we took our station in the porch &c. At the end of the service we
were so much affected by the cold, that we were unable to perform mass in the
Cathedral ; and therefore went up into the higher church, which they had warmed
with stoves from the preceding evening. Here we celebrated the holy mysteries,
and there was an ordination of Priests and Deacons. We were detained until
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3,13.5
evening, cursing our very souls from weariness and starvation. We had scarcely
afterwards sat down to table before they chimed the bells for Vespers.
In the country of Moscow, we were told, there are only two festivals on
which the great assemblies take place ; namely, the Immersion, and the Procession
of Palms ( jyU^,) : and this we afterwards found to be the case. At the former
of these two, as celebrated in the capital, they construct a large inclosure of
paling on this same river, for it flows near to the Imperial Palace ; and the
Patriarch goes forth with the Heads of the Clergy and of the Convents, and the
whole of the inferior Clergy, in their robes, two and two, in grand procession
from the Great Church to Vodalivrata, or the Water-gate. The Emperor
follows them with his Great Officers of State, on foot, and wearing his crown ;
but at the moment they begin the Prayer, he uncovers his head, and remains
until the conclusion, thus exposed to the dreadful severity of the cold. His
predecessors on the throne, we were informed, used to have expanded over their
heads a species of high cupola or pavilion, carried by thirty men, to protect
them from the frost and snow : this august prince, out of the greatness of his
piety, will not allow himself such an accommodation but stands bareheaded ; and
says, that frost and snow are a blessed dispensation from God, to which none
can hinder him from being subject. At the moment the Patriarch dips the
cross for the third time, the crowd becomes immense ; and in the large holes
previously made in the ice, upon the river, the Priests instantly baptize both
children and grown-up persons, who are kept waiting for this occasion from
year to year. As soon as the Patriarch has asperged the Emperor and his
Grand Officers of State, his majesty returns to his palace in his royal sledge,
which is covered inside with red velvet, and is studded on the outside with gold
and silver nails. The caparison of the horses is made of sable furs. Then the
Patriarch sprinkles the rest of the Clergy and Grandees present ; and they return
in procession to church, for mass.
On the Sunday, which was the second day of the Festival of the Immersion,
our Lord the Patriarch said mass as before, and ordained to be Priests and
Deacons the sons of a Clergyman, who, having been formerly a secular Minister,
had become a Monk in one of the convents of a city called Tola, of the 'T-ra^/a
or jurisdiction of this Bishopric, dedicated by the title of Saint John the Baptist.
This man presented himself before our Lord the Patriarch with a petition from
the Prior and Monks of the convent, purporting that he had been a secular
Minister, and at the death of his wife had taken the monastic habit. Now, as
we have before mentioned, it is a rule with the Bishops of this country not to
356 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
grant permission to a person in his circumstances to perform mass until after a
lapse of many years, that he may, in the interim, forget the world and all its
pleasures. As soon,, however, as the news reached the convent of the proceed
ings of our Lord the Patriarch, the Monks sent to entreat his Holiness that he
would give1 this Priest permission to say mass ; for all the Priests they had in
the convent to perform the sacred mysteries had lately died. In compliance
with their request, the Patriarch granted him the permission : and the Secretary
of the Bishopric wrote for him a certificate, translated into their language from
the tongue of the Patriarch, to take with him. After we had signed this docu
ment, and sealed it with our seals, he departed with it, full of joy.
SECT. VIII.
CITY OF TOLA, AND IHOX /t'ORKS.— ARCHBISHOP OF RAZAINOV.
CONFER S10X OF INFIDELS.
WE were informed, by this Clergyman and others, that the city of Tola is
distant from Moscow one hundred and thirty versts ; from Kashira, one hundred
and twenty ; and from the trench lately dug by the Emperor on the Tartar fron
tier, and fenced with crossed piles of wood like a wall, with a continued line of
castles and towers, guarded by thousands of troops, its distance is about five
hundred versts. From this trench, the whole way to the Tartar Country is
through a deserted and ruined territory, rendered impassable to an army,, by
the spread of its waters, the frequency of its difficult defiles, and the narrowness
of its mountain paths. This Tola is a city with a castle built of stone, larger
and stronger than Kalomna ; and is the passage to the Tartar Country, as
Potiblia is the passage to Turkey. Lately, within the reign of this Emperor,
there has been discovered near the town an admirable mine of iron, extending
under several hills. Formerly no native iron was seen in the country : all
the iron they used was brought 'them by the Franks,, in their ships. The
Nemsas or Germans were the first to discover these mines, and are now
working them day and night ; having rented them from the Emperor, at the
rate of keeping one portion in ten of the iron to themselves, and yielding the
remaining nine to his majesty. They have admirably-constructed furnaces, into
which the}' put the ore as it is dug from the earth : then lighting the fires, they
raise the heat to such a degree, that the iron melts like water, and runs from
the furnaces all round, through pipes, into trenches dug in the ground, in which
moulds are hollowed to the shape of cannon, wheels, &c. In every trench are
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 3.37
forty or fifty moulds on each side ; from which, as soon as the iron masses have
assumed the proper form,, they are extracted without trouble or labour, and
without even the use of a spade : in this way, thousands of various articles are
manufactured every day. The vast quantities of cannon which are founded
here are carried away on sledges, in winter ; and are partly taken a distance of
one thousand seven hundred versts, or about forty days' journey, to the port of
Archangel, where the main ocean is, to be sold to the Franks, who export them
to their own country. They are of the best and purest metal. This iron is very
cheap ; and therefore all the gates of the stone houses, the gates of the palaces
and churches, the trap-doors of the cellars and magazines., and the doors and
windows of the shops in the city of Moscow, as well as the balustrades, are mostly
made of pure iron. We used to wonder greatly at the vast size of the church
and castle and palace gates. The floor of the Patriarchal Church was formerly
laid with stone ; but as, after a lapse of time, it was worn to decay, the Emperor
sent orders to this foundry at Tola, to make large square plates, polished so as
to shine like silver ; and with these they paved the whole of the church floor,
the tabernacle, and even the outside of the gates to the west part of the basement ;
as we afterwards saw, and shall hereafter more particularly describe in the
proper place.
It may be here remarked, that many of the persons who died of the plague,
and had property to leave, bequeathed it for the construction of churches.
Application was therefore made to our Lord the Patriarch, by the Heads of Con
vents, and leave by him granted them, to set about building a great number of
churches. After he had vested his Hsetrgotffl'h.ioy and 'Qpatpogiov, and read the
Prayer designed for the Foundation of Churches, they received from him an
*lorTu.Tizov, in their language, subscribed with his hand and stamped with his seal,
to be a certificate to them of his permission.
Whilst we were residing in Kalomna, there came, on a visit to our Lord the
Patriarch, a Kyr Misayil, Archbishop of Ilazainov, which in their language is
called Razanska ; who, being on his way to Moscow, had turned aside, about the
distance of forty versts, to come to Kalomna. He sent forward to announce his
arrival ; and our Lord the Patriarch, in consequence, prepared to receive him, by
putting on his Mai/^ya, according to custom. When the Archbishop entered,
accompanied by a large train, one of his attendants took his crosier, and went to
the outside ; and the Patriarch, turning his face towards the images, chaunted
forth the "Af/ov wriv, as is usual on the entrance of the Heads of the Clergy,
when they privately visit each other in this country. In the mean time we
3.38 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
responded Kvgts 'EXg^<rov and EyXoy^erov three times ; after which, the Pa
triarch concluded the prayer. Then he turned to give his blessing to the
Archbishop, who received it kneeling, and making many metanoias to the
ground. At every question the Patriarch asked him concerning his health
and circumstances, he made a low bow, and could with difficulty be prevailed
upon to take a seat. After he had received the benediction, he kissed the
Patriarch's head, and they shook hands with each other. Then the Patriarch
questioned him on many subjects ; and among the rest, concerning his See and
'YKOLWIO,, He replied, that under his jurisdiction were more than a thousand
churches ; and that his See was established at Razainov, a very large stone-built
city, containing within it a castle of wood, and a cathedral church dedicated to
the Assumption of our Lady. He informed us, that he had lately, in the sum
mer, preached to a nation of those without God ; and that after having suffered
from them many hardships, he had at length made an impression on them, and
converted them to Christianity. He baptized four thousand four hundred of
them in the following manner : — he stripped the men naked to their under
clothes, and made them stand in the middle of the river, with the women in
their shifts : after pouring upon them oil, and reciting the Prayers for Bap
tism, he dipped them all together. Being thus rendered desirous of the fire of
true religion, they entered the pale of the faith with vehement love ; and he
built for them churches, to which they flocked to prayer, both day and night.
Having finished his narration, he arose to take leave of the Patriarch, with
repeated metanoias ; and, as at first, the "A%iov la-riv was again chaunted. The
Patriarch blessed him a second time ; and went forth to the outside, to bid him
adieu. On coming to the gate of the great church, the Archbishop gave his
crosier to one of his Deacons, and, stepping forward, knelt to the ground on the
snow, in his Ma^ua, out of veneration to the image over the gate. In like
manner he did at the second gate. Then he took his seat in his sania ; and
surrounded by his great officers and servants, and preceded and followed by
fifty men on horseback, he departed. His upper dress under his cassock was a
robe of green figured damask, lined with sable fur, with long narrow sleeves,
according to the fashion of their habit : on his head he wore a very large
black latin, coming down over his eyes, with a cloth cap under it trimmed
with sable fur.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 359
SECT. IX.
SECRECY OF THE MUSCOVITES.— REMOVAL TO MOSCOW.—
KOSA KG IV.— VI SHI NO.
To return to our own history. — We were now in great affliction, at the length
of our useless stay in this place. We had been led to hope that the Emperor
would return from his expedition by the Festival of St. Nicolas, and such a report
had been spread abroad ; but he came not : again, that he would come for the
Christmas Holidays ; and again we were disappointed. Even for the great
Festival of the Immersion, no news appeared of his arrival. We were therefore
in great distress, perplexity, and doubt ; particularly as we were shut up in close
confinement, without a single person to inform us what the Emperor was
doing, or where he was, or what was passing in the world ; for the Muscovites
are all, from the highest to the lowest, of a silent disposition ; and this is the
only disagreeable part of their character. They will tell nothing to a foreigner
whatever, either good or bad, of their own affairs : even to our Lord the
Patriarch, when he condescended to ask the chief Officers and Priests,, or even
the common people, concerning the circumstances of the Emperor, not one
would give the smallest information : all their answer was, " We do not know."
The very children were perfectly instructed in the like dissimulation. How
surprising is the strictness of such discipline, and that in the mouths of all of
them there should be but one tongue ! We were afterwards given to under
stand, that every Muscovite is sworn upon the Cross and the Gospel, and bound,
on pain of excommunication by the Patriarch, not to reveal their national affairs
to foreigners ; but should they gain any intelligence from or concerning
strangers, they are obliged to communicate it to the Emperor. In like manner the
Greek Merchants, who are recognised as such, and established among them,
take an oath not to disclose the affairs of the nation ; and to shun all treachery
to the State, even in things of the smallest apparent import. At the time when
the Prince succeeds to the sovereignty, and mounts the throne, he sends round
to all the provinces, to exact this oath of secrecy and allegiance from all his sub
jects ; as we saw done when the new Beg assumed the reins of government in
Wallachia. Under these circumstances, we were in great distress and per
plexity. Our Lord the Patriarch had sent twice or three times to the
Ministers, Lieutenants of the Emperor, letters written to this purport, that we
were wearied of expectation, and very desirous of arriving in the capital.
B B B
300 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
These letters they transmitted to the Emperor ; but wrote us no answer, being
hindered by the multiplicity of their avocations. Afterwards, the Patriarch
despatched to them an Archimandrite,, bearing letters, in which he supplicated
them to send and take us to reside in the capital, until the Emperor should
arrive. These letters they again transmitted to the Emperor ; and sent to comfort
our hearts with the assurance that we should speedily receive an answer. The
principal part of our delay here was by reason that the Patriarch of Moscow
was not present at his See, and remained away from fear of the plague. If he
had not been absent, he would not have delayed us until now, however much
engaged in business the Emperor might have been; since the Patriarch is the
person charged with the care of the Clergy. This was the worst feature of our
neglected condition : this dependence on any but the sovereign made us weary
of our lives, and sank us in despair. In the mean while, we received our allow
ance every month of one hundred and fifty rials, and also the pensions assigned
to our companions, from the commissioner of excise on spirits and mead and beer :
our dragoman brought us the money at the beginning of each month.
On the Sunday of the Canaanite, our Lord the Patriarch said mass in the
church above, and ordained Priests and Deacons, as he did also on the Monday.
Likewise, on the Sunday of the Zaka (rov ' 'Ao-urov), he again said mass, and ordained
Priests and Deacons in the same church. Whilst we were attending this mass,
the joyful message we had so long expected was at length brought to us by two
dragomans of gentlemanly appearance, who came with a large sledge belonging
to the Emperor, designed for the travelling-carriage of our Lord the Patriarch.
Our delight was too great to be described : it was manifold. These dragomans
brought also with them some barrels of mead, and some of cherry-brandy, of
various kinds ; caviare in great quantity, and many large fishes. They were
accompanied by the Voivoda of the town, bearing in his hand the Emperor's
order that he should expedite us quickly. As soon as our Lord the Patriarch
had gone forth from the church, the two dragomans presented themselves
before him, and, bowing to him with alacrity, said, prefacing their speech with
the style of the Emperor, which is this ; ' ' The Great Prince and most glorious
Kniazi, of supreme direction and vast dignity, King of Cazan, King of Astrachan,
King of Siberia, King of Novogorod, greatest of Effendis in Biskop, greatest of
Kniazis in Molantska." Then enumerating the names of all the countries and
provinces which were formerly independent governments, but have been con
quered by the sovereigns of Moscow — a practice which, on these occasions,
they never omit, as will be hereafter explained at full length — they proceeded to
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 301
say, " AUTOXOKTU* M&ydXrtS %a} Mixgw 'Pou<r(riag" that is, " The Self-Ruler of all
the lands of the Russians, both of Great and Little Russia, bows to thy Holiness
of all Beatitude, and invites thee to the city of Moscow, that tliou mayest
sanctify it by thy residence there, and mayest give thy blessing to his throne."
At this moment the Patriarch rose upon his feet, according to the usual practice,
that whenever a person receives a messenger from the Emperor, or hears the
Emperor's name mentioned, he stands up out of veneration for his Majesty :
and having offered up many prayers for him, he resumed his seat. Then the
Patriarch asked them many questions concerning the Emperor, and his present
circumstances. They answered : " His Majesty intends, for the sake of your
Holiness, to draw near his throne, that he may meet you ; for he has long been
expecting you : and on this account he sent to the Khatman Chmiel, that he
should expedite your journey with all diligence." They then informed the
Patriarch, that the Emperor had dismissed his troops for the present ; but had
sent notice to all the provinces, that a great force must be collected for him at
Smolensko, in the month of Adar, to march against the Cral of the Poles. The
Voivoda now prepared for us some vovods or carriages, in which we packed
our luggage ; and on Tuesday, the thirteenth of Canon Essani, our Lord the
Patriarch entered the Great Church as usual, and performed there a UctgdxXria-ic,
or Supplication for the Emperor ; and an 'Ayicurpo?. After assisting at mass,
we went forth, accompanied by the Voivoda and the Archons of the Bishopric,
who raised the Patriarch by his arms, and seated him in the royal sledge, which
was harnessed with four horses mounted with postillions. The inside of the
carriage was spread with cushions of black velvet, and the Patriarch was inclosed
up to the breast with a cloth covering. The corners of the sledge behind
were, out of respect, held by the Voivoda, and another Archon who was
appointed to attend our journey : the rest of the Archons, to do us further
honour, were placed around the carriage : the crosier was held by one of the
outriders in front, where were also stationed the janissaries destined for our
escort. In this form we proceeded to a considerable distance outside the town ;
when the Voivoda and his suite, together with the Archons, bade us adieu.
Hereupon the two dragomans, with the Archon, succeeded each other by turns,
to stand at the corners of the sledge, both out of respect to the Patriarch, and
lest the carriage should be overturned by the rises and falls in the road, until
we arrived at the capital.
In this manner we ceased not to run forward with great speed : for at this
season of the year the sledges glide along with a velocity equal to the flight of a
30-2 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
bird, over roads hardened by the frost, and lined with villages nearly contiguous
to each other. As the road was narrow, the janissaries were busily employed
in moving the travellers aside, to make way for us ; and in consequence of the
depth of the snow which lay on the ground, their horses sank in it up to their
bellies. We used to admire the snow on the branches of the beautiful forest-
trees; where it remained concrete, and folded on the twigs on each side,
resembling shirts and towels finely washed and spread to dry. We crossed the
River of Moscow, with many other rivers, several times ; but we knew them not,
nor should have discovered them, but by the wells which were dug in them,
from which they were drawing water with ropes and buckets. Our eyes were
blinded, for the fields and trees were all of a dazzling white.
We travelled this day, until the evening, a journey of about five and twenty
versts ; and came to a town called Kosdkor, where we slept ; having been pre
ceded by the Conakji, who prepared for us a lodging. On the Wednesday
morning we arose and made a progress of about five and fifty versts. When
ever we entered any town, we alighted and stopped at some house, to give
some repose to ourselves and horses.
In the afternoon we came to a town called Vishino, distant only ten versts
from the city of Moscow. Here we alighted, because the Ministers had so
ordered ; and one of the dragomans went to inform them of our arrival. Great
was the fatigue we suffered in our passage over these roads, which are extremely
rough, and full of lumps and holes, causing our sledges, like vessels on the
Black Sea, to jolt from side to side. For this reason, the dragomans kept
hold of the Patriarch's sledge from morn till night, to prevent its overturning.
All our other sledges turned over with us repeatedly ; nor had any one of us the
smallest power to walk, for the ground was like soap.
We slept, then, in the town aforesaid, the night of Thursday, the first of
Shabat ; and also the night of Friday, the Feast of the Entrance into the Temple.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 363
SECT. X.
ENTRY INTO MOSCOW.— DESCRIPTION OF THE FORTRESS.—
ECCLESIASTICAL HABIT AND CONVERSATION.
ON the morning of the above-mentioned festival, we arose and entered the city
of Moscow*. First we entered within the walls of earth and the great moat,
which surround the whole place : then we entered within the second wall, which
is of stone, and was built by the great-great-grandfather of the Emperor, the
Grand Duke Theodoras, by whom also the earthen walls were thrown up ; the
circuit of which is thirty versts, studded throughout with wooden towers, and
opened by gates. The circumference of this second wall of stone is seven
versts. We then entered upon the third wall of stone and brick ; and the
fourth, called The Castle, as being very strong, and defended by a very deep
moat, on the borders of which are two walls. Within are two other walls, with
turrets and numerous embrasures. This castle,, which is the palace of the
Emperor, has five gates ; and within each gateway are several wickets of bright
iron. In the centre is an iron gate, like a cage, which they raise and lower by
mechanism. All the embrasures in the walls of this city have their range
extending downward, to the very ground beneath ; and are so contrived, that it
may be impossible for any person to hide himself under the wall, or to approach
it in any way : and they are very deep.
When we had entered by the Ptoyal Gate, they made us alight in a convent
near to it, which had been used before as a lodging for the Patriarchs,, and is
built of stone, in the name of the Saints Athanasius and Cyrillus ; the former of
* " Moscow is in the latitude of 55° 40' ; and is built, in some measure, after the Eastern manner,
having not many regular streets, but a great number of houses with gardens. Its circumference is
about 16 English miles. The River Moskwa, which runs through it, and joins the Occa, near Kolumna,
makes many windings, which add a very striking beauty to the city ; but in the summer it is in several
places shallow and unnavigable. The several eminences, groves of trees, gardens, and lawns, inter
spersed, form the most pleasing prospects, and enliven the imagination." — Hanway's Travels,Vo\. I. p. 92.
" The City of Moscow, standing on an eminence, commands an extensive prospect of a fine plain country,
adorned with woods and clumps of trees, monasteries, and gentlemen's seats. The River Moskwa runs
almost through it ; which emptying itself into the Volga, preserves a communication with all the southern
parts of Russia, and even with Persia. From these advantages in situation, this place is very conve
nient for trade, which flourishes here to a considerable degree. The city is fortified with a strong brick
wall, having embrasures and a ditch. Within this is another wall. This last incloses what is called the
Gremlin ; in which is the old Imperial Palace, compounded of a number of buildings added to one
another at different times. Here stands a lofty tower, wherein is hung the largest bell in the world.
Beyond the brick walls there is an earthen one, of great circumference round the whole." — Bell's Travels,
Vol. I. p. 12.
361- TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Alexandria, the latter of Bielazarsko, and one of their new Saints. Our hearts
were ready to burst as we entered the city ; and we wept much at seeing most of
the houses emptied of their inhabitants, and the streets frightfully desolate, in
consequence of the severity of the plague which had ravaged them. Our Lord
the Patriarch gave his blessing to the people on his right and left ; whilst I the
Archdeacon, and the Archimandrite, held the corners of the sledge behind,
according to their custom. As soon as we arrived at our lodgings, we wor
shipped God with thanksgiving, exalted and blessed be His Name ! who, in
his mercy, granted us to behold this vast city, this new Grecian metropolis
(sjo>Jl &j*cjj IflAjJjk**), a town of churches and convents, and celebrated
throughout the world; the history and beauties of which we will hereafter
commemorate, in the proper place. Much anxious care was now removed from
our hearts; and we rejoiced greatly, as it was natural we should, that having
been three years all but ten days journeying to reach this place, amidst terrors,
privations, and hardships, beyond description, we were at length arrived within
its precincts. Again we return thanks to the Almighty ; and offer up to Him
our humble prayers, that whereas He has conducted us hither in health and
safety, He will facilitate to us our return to the land of our birth, laden with
riches, and to be blessed with the sight of our friends and homes.
To return : — At this moment, interpreters, apppointed by the Emperor, appeared
before us, to hold conversation with us ; and others, for the purpose of supplying
our necessities. From the Emperor's kitchen and table, daily, was brought for
our master — first, bread ; then fish for four kinds of dishes ; caviare ; and plenty
of beverages, consisting of deep-red cherry-brandy, and some of a bright yellow ;
and large jars of mead. For us, besides mead, was furnished weekly, and also
for the servants, a large barrel of /iTasw (koass — quass), that is, an intoxicating
drink, made, by boiling, from rye or barley, and hops. It should be noted, that
neither the Heads of the Clergy, nor the Monks, drink spirituous liquors at all ;
and they are strictly enjoined by the Patriarch, whenever they find any one
drunk, to throw him into prison, and scourge him, and expose him to shame ;
for with them the drinking of spirituous liquors is a very disgraceful thing, and
is considered as a greater sin even than fornication : but the tradespeople, and
the servants of the Heads of the Clergy, with their relations, are allowed two
cups a-day. The interpreters were employed in instructing us in the whole of
the ceremonies to be observed; and besides them, not a single person came near
us : for it is the custom with the Muscovites, that if a Head of the Clergy or an
is the Russian word for metropolis, ClIlOAJlLIA.
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS.
Archimandrite shall not first have had an interview with the Emperor, and kissed
his hand, he shall not go out at all, nor shall any person visit him ; and, accord-
in^ly, we were unable to leave our apartments against this established rule. Our
Lord the Patriarch was in the habit of constantly laying aside his mandya ; and,
consequently, no Priest or Deacon, not even any of the interpreters, was permitted
to visit him until he had been announced by the porter, and the Patriarch had
put on his mandya, and had his crosier supported by his side, to receive the
visit. This ceremony is observed, not only by the Heads of the Clergy, but
also by the Heads of Convents here, with whom it is a rule never to be seen
without their mandyas and latias, even at table, nor even by their servants.
We now entered upon the exertion of fatigue in standing up, marshalling our
retinue, studying precision in our manners and address, and affecting the utmost
sedateness and most awful reverence. As for jesting and laughter, we became
entirely estranged to every thing of the kind, for we were strictly guarded
and observed ; and whatever they remarked in us, whether of good or evil, they
immediately reported to the Emperor and the Patriarch. For this reason we
maintained great caution over ourselves ; not by choice, but of necessity ; and
endeavoured to walk after the manner of the Saints, in spite of all our rebellious
inclinations. God deliver us from this constraint in which they hold us, and
restore us to our beloved freedom !
366 TRAVELS OF MACAHIUS.
BOOK VIII.
SECT. I.
RETURN OF NICON, PATRIARCH OF MOSCOW— SOLEMN ENTRY OF THE
EMPEROR INTO MOSCOW.— KREMLIN.
ON the second Saturday after our entrance into the capital, and the third of
Ishbat, Kyr Nicon, Patriarch of Moscow, returned to his palace, after an absence
since the month of Ab, which he had passed in the fields and forests, through
fear of the plague; until he went afterwards with the Empress to Viazma,
where the Emperor was, having returned from the country of the Poles ; and
where he stayed to keep the Festivals of the Nativity and Immersion, awaiting
the disappearance of all traces of the plague from the capital, in which it
continued its ravages until Christmas. We rejoiced much at the coming of the
Patriarch : and this was the first piece of good news, and the first of our joys,
after great solicitude, anguish, and anxiety. Soon afterwards a report was
spread of the speedy arrival of the Emperor ; and in the afternoon of Friday,
the ninth of Ishbat, the Empress re-entered her palace.
On the morning of Saturday, the tenth of Ishbat, the Grandees and troops
arranged themselves in order to meet the Emperor, who had slept the pre
ceding night in one of his imperial palaces distant only five versts from the
city. Early in the morning of this day he arose, and came to a monastery
dedicated to St. Andrew of Stratila, in the vicinity of the town, where he
assisted at a TLu^ax^jja-ig ; on his going out from which, all the city bells began to
ring, as the place was so near : and the Patriarch went forth in his cope and
mitre, with the Deacons holding him by the arms according to their custom, and
enclosing him with the banners, crosses, and numerous images, carried by the
Priests in their copes before him ; and the Archbishop of Razainov, with four
Archimandrites in their copes and mitres, behind him. The whole Clergy of
the capital, and the great Cross carried in its stand by one of the Deacons,
were near him. Advancing all together, they met the Emperor at the earthen
TRAVELS OF MACAR1LS.
walls. Our Lord the Patriarch was desirous of seeing the passage of the Em
peror ; but it could not be, until he had sent to ask the Minister's permission.
We sat in one of the apartments of the convent in which we lodged, to see the
procession and the people from the windows looking over the royal or main
street, in privacy. The trades-people of the city, the merchants, and artisans,
came forth with their offerings to meet the Emperor, carrying loaves, according
to their custom, silvered and gilt images, sable fur-skins, and gilt cups ; and
the lords of state and the troops advanced at the head of the procession. This
is the description of their banners : — First came a banner accompanied by two
drums beating, followed by troops in three even ranks, in allusion to the name
of the Trinity : if the banner was white, all the troops that followed it were
dressed in white ; if blue, those who followed it were dressed in blue ; and so
if it was red, or green, or pink, so as to include every possible colour. The
order and arrangement appeared truly admirable, as they all moved forward,
both infantry and cavalry, in three ranks, in the name of the Trinity. All the
banners were new, having been recently made by the Emperor before he set
forth on his expedition. They were large* and much to be admired, astonishing
the beholder with their beauty, the execution of the figures painted on them,
and the richness of their gilding. On the first of the aforementioned banners
was depicted the Mourning of Our Lady ; because the Great Church of this city,
the Patriarchal Church, is dedicated by that title. The painting is seen on both
sides ; and this is the banner of the church, with the troops attached to it. The
second was a painting of the Figured Handkerchief; that is, in the name of the
Garment of Our Lord the Christ, which they possess. Of the remaining ban
ners, some were painted with the figure of St. George or St. Demetrius, or the
other valiant troopers who died martyrs to the faith ; or with the image of
St. Michael the Archangel ; the Cherubim with the Flaming Sword ; the Imperial
Seal or Arms, an eagle with two heads; Land and Sea* War-Horses, fancifully
decorated ; Lions ; large and small Crosses, &c. Nothing pleased us so much as
the dress and regular order of the troops marching behind the banners, who,
whenever they came within sight of an image over the door of a church or
" The sea-horse (says Gerrit De Veer) is a wonderful strong monster of the sea, much bigger than
an ox ; which keeps continually in the seas, having a skin like a sea-calf or seal, with very short hair,
mouthed like a lion; and many times they lie upon the ice: they are hardly killed, unless you strike
them just upon the forehead : it hath four feet, but no ears ; and commonly it hath two young- ones at
a time. When the fishermen chance to find them upon a Hake of ice with their young ones, she casteth
her young ones before her into the water, and then takes them in her arms, and so plungeth up and
down with them ; and when she will revenge herself upon the boats, or make resistance against them,
C C C then
368 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
monastery, or within sight of a cross, always took off their calpacks, notwith
standing the excessive coldness of the weather on this day, and turned to bow
their heads in that direction. Near each hanner were also the Sotniks, or
Yeuzbashis, with their halberts in their hands. In this manner they continued
moving forward until it was nearly evening.
On the approach of the Emperor, they drew up on each side, from the palace
to the earthen walls of the town. In the mean time the bells throughout the
city rang all together, so that the earth trembled with their vibration. The
great officers of state now entered ; and the imperial led-horses, twenty-four in
number, with saddles inlaid with gold and precious-stones, preceded the imperial
sledges, which were lined with red cloth and covered with brocade, and the
coaches, which were closed with pannels of crystal, ornamented with silver and
gold. Then advanced the janissaries (Strelitzes) troop by troop, with besoms,
sweeping the ice before the august Emperor ; who now entered, clothed in
his imperial robes of red velvet, with ornaments of gold and jewels round the
skirts, collar, edges of the sleeves, and seams on the breast, according to the
usual fashion of his dress, walking with his head uncovered, and the Patriarch
by his side, in conversation with him. Before and behind him were the images
and banners : no body-guard ; nor drums, fifes, or musical instruments of any
kind, as is the custom with the Begs of Moldavia and Wallachia, but only the
chaunters singing hymns. Now observe, Brother, of all these circumstances
which we witnessed, the most remarkable was, that when the Emperor came
opposite to our monastery, he turned his face towards a convent of Nuns near
us, dedicated by the title of the Divine Ascension, and containing the tombs of
all the Empresses. The Abbess and the sisterhood were all standing forward.
The Emperor bent, in three great metaiioia.s to the ground, on the snow, towards
the images which were over the gate of the convent ; and bowed his head to the
Nuns,, who all returned his salute, and, advancing, presented to him a picture
of the Ascension,, and a large cake of black bread carried by two persons,
which he accepted, and proceeded onwards with the Patriarch to the Great
Church, where he assisted at the '^(rvzgivov, and then ascended to his palace.
The people were delighted at his arrival ; and both the nobility and corn-
then she casts her young ones from her again, and with all her force goeth towards the boat (whereby
our men were once in no small danger, for that the sea-horse had almost stricken her teeth into the stern
of their boat), thinking to overthrow it ; but by means of the great cry that the men made, she was
afraid, and swam away again, and took her young ones away in her arms. They have two teeth
sticking out of their mouths, on each side one, each being about half an ell long, and are esteemed to
be as good as any ivory or elephant's teeth."
TRAVELS OF MACAHIUS. 369
monalty throughout the empire received the tidings with joy. Above all, we
poor wretches rejoiced with exceeding great joy ; for no one had hoped that he
would at all return this year from his expedition, engaged as he was in a war
with his most malignant enemy the Poles; and whilst his armies were subduing
forts and provinces, fighting battles, and carrying away the plunder of the
conquered,, none being able to stand before them. Of Radzivil and the Oral all
tidings were lost. It was the wish and intention of the Emperor, that no terms
should be offered them, nor any relaxation intervene in their pursuit, until he
had completely reduced them ; and for this purpose, the greatest part of his
troops wintered in the Polish territory. But, as we afterwards ascertained, the
principal motive which brought back the Emperor to his capital was to gratify
our Lord the Patriarch with a meeting : as he afterwards told him from his
own mouth, when he met him : ''' For your sake, Father," said he, " I came to
see you, and to ask your blessing and receive it. "--This we shall hereafter
describe.
When the Emperor looked upon the city, in his passage through it, and saw-
how the plague had shaken its pillars, thrown its inhabitants into confusion and
distress, and devastated the greater part of its streets and market-places, he
wept much, and sank into a profound sorrow. He had sent before him mes
sengers, to inquire of the people concerning their condition, to console them
amidst their funerals, and to soothe their hearts. When he approached the
gate of the castle, the gate of the great palace (Kremlin), over which is a huge
tower, high above its foundations,, and supported by vast pillars, in which was
the wonderful town-clock of iron, celebrated throughout the world for its
beauty and workmanship, and for the elevation of the sound of its great bell,
which reached not only over the whole city, but also to the villages around, a
distance of more than ten versts ; in the timber-work of which, a fire, lighted
by the envy of the malignant, had broken out during the late Festival of the
Nativity : the clock, bells, and all the appurtenances, had been enveloped in
flames, and falling, had, by their weight, precipitated to the ground the roofs or
vaults of brick and stone ; so that this wonderful rarity, the restoration of which
to its former situation would require an expenditure of more than twenty -five
thousand dinars on artists alone, was rendered useless. When the Emperor raised
his eyes from afar, and beheld this wonderful tower burnt to ruins, its beauties
and ensigns deformed, and its ingeniously-carved statues of marble fallen, he
shed many tears ; — for all these calamitous events which had occurred were a
trial from the Almighty, exalted be His name !
370 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. II.
CAMPAIGN OF THE POLES.— THEIR DEFEAT KY THE COSSACKS.-
FATHERING OF THE TARTAR TRIBES.
IMMEDIATELY upon the Emperor s arrival, he sent orders to the provinces, to his
troops, that they should all speedily assemble, and go before him to Smolensko,
with all their ammunition and heavy baggage ; taking advantage of the frost
and of the ice upon the rivers, by which, at this season of the year, their travel
ling in sledges was rendered easy. During the other seasons, of spring, summer,
and autumn, all these countries are impassable, in consequence of the excessive
rains which fall, and the depth of the mud and clay. On this account, the heat
of their war is in the frosty season, when their operations are so much facilitated,
particularly in the reduction of fortresses, by the freezing of the waters around
them, and in their moats.
Great as was the power of the Poles, the Almighty had now brought it to a
termination ; and had given to the Emperor victories and triumphs over them,
in punishment for their exorbitant pride and insufferable arrogance. Having
no strength to meet the Emperor in the field, observe what they now did, when
they heard that he was returned to Moscow : they immediately sent to the
Tartars, giving them of the gold which they held in abundance, and receiving
from them an auxiliary force of near fifty thousand men, collected for them in
the present month of Ishbat, on the borders of the Cossack Country. From the
Germans they hired likewise about forty thousand; and of Poles, Hungarians,
and Wallachians, allured by their riches, and the hope of plunder, they assem
bled about forty thousand more. In all, their army amounted to near one
hundred and thirty thousand men. With this force, they spread like an
inundation over the land of the Cossacks, who were in a weak condition to
repel them, particularly at this season of frost and snow, when, according to
custom, they had retired with Chmiel, from the war, to their respective homes ;
and, overpowering all resistance, they subdued many towns, burnt them to the
ground, slaughtered the greater part of their inhabitants, and carried away the
rest into captivity. How many of the towns did they not take (I mean the
Poles), on capitulation ; and, after the surrender, entered and put to the sword
every individual inhabitant, committing abomination and wickedness not to be
described ! As their irruption was quite sudden and unexpected, they overtook
the Hetman Chmiel, attended by scarcely three thousand of his troops, in one of
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 371
the towns, where they besieged him during three days. He had sent to sum
mon the Prokovniks and their soldiery to his aid ; but the enemy intercepted
his letters, so that no person heard from him; and they pressed the siege, whilst
his situation was unknown to any of his council or army. Being straightened
to the utmost, he marched forth from the town ; and taking a position which he
fortified with his cannon, he called on the help of his Maker, and practised
stratagems on the enemy, until he drew them near him. On this lie cried to his
people, " O, my brethren, this day is ours ! " and discharging his guns at the
enemy, he shouted to them with a, loud shout, saying, " The Emperor Alexius is
at hand;" which they no sooner heard, than they turned their backs to run
away, blessed be the Almighty ! and Chmiel, with his weak band, pursued them
with the sword, until not one of their infantry escaped : the cavalry only, with
their swift horses, eluded his pursuit, which he continued to press on them for a
distance of three days' march, until he had destroyed the greatest part of them.
We were afterwards informed, by persons of credibility, that of all the forty
thousand Germans, not even one escaped ; nor their wives and children, who
accompanied them : for it is a custom with the Germans, as we had many
opportunities of seeing, not to go out to war, but their wives and children are
with them, saying, " If we are saved, we shall all be saved ; and if we are killed,
we shall all be killed together :" for their enemies do not seek to make prisoners
either of their wives or children. This corrupt and destructive principle of
warfare should be noted with abhorrence.
Immediately Chmiel sent to inform the Emperor of what had taken place.
The Emperor no sooner heard it, than, falling into a violent rage, he summoned
his troops, to march out with him in all haste. We were told, that within this
month he had assembled about him more than four hundred thousand men,
from among his subjects, who own no God. Numbers of them passed before
our eyes, and we observed their frightful hideous figures. They are of various
tribes of Tartars, dwelling in the deserts around the province of Klazaina, in the
interior of Siberia. Historians of veracity inform us, that under the government
of this Emperor are about fifty different nations and tongues, ignorant of their
Maker, and worshipping animals, the beasts of the field, the heavens, the sun,
the moon, the stars, and so forth. The Calmuck Tartars are said to worship
fire, and to burn their dead in it, whilst they bow down and glorify, rejoicing at
the separation and dissolution of the four quarters of their bodies into flames,
water, earth, and air. Their countenances are hideous and disgusting, with broad
thick noses : in their ears they wear rings, with pendants of coral. Some of these
372 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Tartars,, when a child is born to them, call in the Muscovite Clergy to pray over
it ; and the Priest, after blessing it with incense, gives it the name of some Saint :
but the parents afterwards call it by what name they please. Some fathers, it is
said, give to their child the name of any animal they may happen to meet on
going forth from the house the first time after the birth. At a suitable moment
hereafter we will detail the history of these Tartar tribes, the appellations of
some of which are, Cheramishidsan, Calmokidsan, Comoki, Bashkerdah, Mard-
van, Moghol, Chirkas, £c. The wanderings and dwellings of all these nations
are in the deserts, from the neighbourhood of Cazan and Astrachan to the
remotest parts of the province of Siberia. The strangest of them is the tribe of
St. Christophorus the Martyr, who eat human flesh, as we afterwards witnessed
with our own eyes. The assemblage of all these tribes was at the city of
Moscow, in the months of Ishbat and Adar, where we saw how vastly large an
army of them the Emperor possessed. Now, all these nations are but scattered
inhabitants of the deserts : what then are we to think of the multitude of troops
he can collect from his towns thickly inhabited by Christians, the number of
whom is incalculable ? By what persons of credit conjectured, there were now
assembled to the Emperor, in this present year, more than a million ; that is,
ten times a hundred thousand warriors.
The rude nations we have been speaking of are preached to by the Muscovite
Bishops and their Clergy, and flock to be baptized, and to embrace the faith
with all the eagerness of their hearts. We saw numbers of them baptized in
the river in front of us : but the eagerness of most of these is occasioned by the
presents of clothes, money, and provisions, made to them on their conversion by
the Emperor.
We were told the custom is, that whoever was on the campaign of last year,
is excused from marching on any expedition of the present year, as the military
duty is taken by rotation. This year the turn came to these tribes to furnish
their quota of four hundred thousand men, from each family a man, as we were
assured. For the Patriarch of Moscow informed our master, saying, " The
sources of the Emperor's army are exceedingly copious. Should he wish to carry
on war for twenty years, so numerous are the districts of his empire, that to
many of them even then the turn would not arrive." It may be, that no one
will give credit to these accounts ; yet, Brother, they are not to be wondered at,
of a country, the length and breadth of which it requires four years to traverse,
though its population be but thin. We shall again have occasion to mention
this subject hereafter.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 373
SECT. III.
PRESENTS TO THE EMPEROR AND IMPERIAL FA MILT.—
RECEPTION OF THE PATRIARCH AT COURT.
To return. — Soon after the Emperor's arrival, the Minister sent to us the
Perevodjik, or Emperor's Dragoman, to inquire of our Lord the Patriarch con
cerning the nature of the presents which he had brought for his Majesty. We
therefore shewed them all to him ; and he wrote them down, one by one, in a
book, minutely describing each article, from the sacred things, to the eatables
and otherwise, as they are accustomed to do, with rather superfluous accuracy.
After he had gone, and presented his list to the Minister, the latter, on the
morrow, which was Sunday, sent again to us his Secretary on the same business,
and he wrote the presents with admirable punctuality in another book. Every
article was set out by us in its proper condition and order; and for their presen
tation, we took trays of beautifully-painted wood, which we adorned, after their
manner, with leaves, and covered all over with red and pink velvet. My poor
skill was charged with the care of all these matters ; and my brethren, fellow-
travellers, and others, bear witness, how, during this night, till Monday morn
ing, I prepared more than a hundred trays, containing all the presents, at
the sight of which every one was astonished. Even the Emperor's courtiers
afterwards remarked, that it had never happened that any of the Patriarchs had
ever made to the Emperor a present like this, consisting of so many different
objects. In the former presents, they had never seen any thing like our stadt
and ladanuin, our manna and dates, or the branches of the palm-tree, which we
had brought from Adnak, tied up and carefully preserved. When we arrived
here, we steeped these branches, by laying them at full length in water flowing
in wooden troughs, two days before their presentation ; and the twigs and leaves
spread and opened, turning as green as though the branches had been newly
cut from the tree, to the great astonishment of all who saw them. Then there
were cinnabar pistachios of Aleppo, and the same dressed and salted ; turpentine,
and cassia fistularis ; and fine high-priced mastich ; at the sight of which articles
they shewed much surprise, having never known them, nor even their names :
the cassia fistularis and mastich only had existence among them.
Now observe the surprising accuracy of the Russian Government, and how
the writer above mentioned made out his description of the presents : it ran
thus: — "When it was Sunday, the eleventh of Ishbat, in the year seven
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
thousand three hundred and sixty from the Creation of the World, advanced
the Patriarch, the most holy of the persons of his time, Kyr Kyr Macarius, of
Antioch and of all the East, into the presence of the excellent Emperor, the
kuroxgurug ; and these are the presents which he brought with him from his
holy see, and from amongst the reliques of his blessed country." The first of
them was a beautiful picture on paper, which we had carefully preserved,
representing a vine growing out of the body of Our Lord the Messiah, and
bearing his twelve Disciples : in the heavens above was the Father, with the
Holy Ghost, giving his blessing. This painting was the admiration of the
beholder. Next was a picture of St. Peter the Apostle, of very great anti
quity ; a vessel of old pvgov, in a cover of brocade ; a vessel of new pvgov, some
of that which we made in Moldavia ; a large beautiful box of ivory, from India.
with a small silver lock, containing a vessel of clear crystal, like a porcelain-dish,
(J^) covered with brocade, inside of which was, sealed up in wax, a piece of the
wood of the true Cross, approved both in fire and water : in fire, it becomes
like a red-hot cinder, and, when taken out and cooled, again returns to its
state of blackness : in water, it sinks to the bottom, and does not float, as is the
nature of wood : this is its true indication. With it was a piece of blessed
stone from Golgotha, besprinkled with the blood of our God and Saviour Jesus
Christ, verified by signs and testimonies ; for when the blood tinged the stone,
it changed its nature, and the stone became like a piece of silver, shining like
gold : the divine blood has remained constantly bright, as a glowing coal, to the
astonishment of the beholder. These treasures of inestimable value came into
our possession from the holders of them at Constantinople, by the ministry of
certain persons of pious and charitable dispositions, at the expense of large sums
of money ; for in that imperial city are still found, up to the present time,
numbers of sacred objects similar to these treasures.
Whilst we were there, a widow woman came to the Convent of the Resur
rection, and presented to the Prior an image of Our Lady, known by the title
of Vlashirnos* ; the same which was carried at the time, by the Patriarch, in
procession round the walls of the city, and routed those who were besiegino* it,
with great discomfiture. The lady said she had found it in the middle of a wall
surrounding her house, with a lamp burning before it. We were then absent, on
a visit to Yeni Keui. On our return to the convent, at the invitation of the
tjAij^la or ^jlyiic a Greek or Russian word, which I am unable to decipher so as to write it
correctly.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 375
Patriarch, for the Festival of the Nativity, we were told of this holy image, and
saw it, and blessed ourselves in its presence. It was not a simple painting with
colours, but, as it were, an embodied figure, or figment of mastich, in high relief
from the boards, striking awe into the beholder. Our Lord the Patriarch used
every endeavour, and offered a large sum of money, to obtain it from the Prior ;
but it was impossible. The Prior afterwards sent it, by one of the merchants, to
the Emperor of Muscovy, who received it with the handsomest reception ; and
having covered it all over with gold and silver and precious gems, and carried it
with him to the wars, has now brought it back in triumph before him. We
again saw it afterwards many times, and paid our devotions to it : but besides
her face with its ornaments, and Our Lord's, nothing else of the figure is open
to view, all the rest being covered with gold. When displayed to the eye, the
whole appears a corporeal reality. In return for it, the Emperor sent to the
Prior a sum of eight hundred dinars, over and above what he gave to the
person who brought it. It was with the intention of thus disposing of the image,
that the Prior refused it to us.
To return : — The Secretary next wrote down, after the piece of the Cross
and the Divine Stone ; A Greek Gospel, an ancient parchment which we had
brought with us from Antioch, to which See it was left as a bequest ; a sun of
glory, with gold and silver rays, containing an image of the Prophet Zachariah,
carved in a bone of his son, St. John the Baptist; a bundle of bright-burning
candles of Jerusalem, perfumed with stacte or storax ; a case of imperial musk ;
scented soap of Constantinople, with other plain soaps of admirable quality ;
scented soap of Jerusalem ; cakes of soap of Aleppo, called of Antioch ; boiled
and unboiled gum of dates ; a branch of a palm-tree in leaf ; cinnabar pistachio
of Aleppo, which they call, as the Greeks do, K&gov ; the real pistachio in its
shell, and the same pickled ; cassia fistularis ; fine white wool of Angora ; and
four ^ia'o t^* of high price and admirable quality. This was the present for
the Emperor, which the Secretary noted apart ; and added, " The Patriarch of
Antioch kneels to your Majesty with this service."
Then he wrote in the same manner, lower down, " This present he offers in
like manner to the Empress :" A beautiful ancient picture inclosed with doors ;
a vessel of pvgov ; a piece of wood of the Cross ; a fragment of the venerable
stone before mentioned, in a crystal vase covered with brocade, within a gold
case; a piece of the veil of St. Anastasia the Martyr, which frees from
enchantment, in a case of black bone, covered inside and out with brocade ;
a bundle of bright-burning candles of stacte ; a case of soap, scented with musk
D D D
376 TRAVELS OP MACARIUS.
and other perfumes ; soap of Aleppo, manna, dates, and ladanum ; cassia fistu-
laris; pistachios; oil of jessamine, in a crystal vase; and a couple of high-priced
Mahrama Balton (^^k'b <u,s-*).
Then he wrote, lower down, " And this is the present for the Vasilopolo, or
Prince Alexius, son of the Emperor Alexius." This boy was born to him on this
very day last year, that is, on the twelfth of Ishbat. The Muscovites and
Cossacks have a wholesome practice, that when a child is born, whether male
or female, they name it by the name of the Saint of that day. Now, at the
same time that, in the Greek 'Clgagiov, commemoration is made of Meletius,
Patriarch of Antioch, with them it is the commemoration of St. Alexius, who
was the second Metropolitan that presided over the See of Moscow, and is
surnamed "the Miraculous": after him, therefore, they named the young prince.
This is the description of the present : A finger of Alexius the man of God, and
a small quantity of his hair, in a box of silver gilt ; a vessel of ^ov, and a bundle
of blest tapers ; incense of stacte ; scented soap ; manna, ladanum, pistachios,
and almonds ; sugar confections ; and a Mahrama Balton.
Then he wrote lower down, " And this is the present for the three sisters of
the Emperor :" Three limbs of holy women : for the eldest sister, named Irene,
some of the reliques of St. Anastasia ; for the second, named Anna, some of
the reliques of St. Marina (Ma£/^); and for the third, named Tatiane (Tartavq),
some of the reliques of St. Phenronia (Osu^/a) the Martyr : to each also a
vessel of pvgov, a Mahrama Balton, and a portion of the articles before men
tioned, such as, incense of stacte, various kinds of soap, manna, ladanum,
pistachios, turpentine fruit, almonds, and sugar confections, in their several
cases ; the present for each being apart, before or after her sister's.
Then he wrote, lower down, " And this is the present for the three daughters
of the Emperor;" the eldest, Eudocia; the second, Martha; and the youngest, only
fifteen days old, Anna : for each was arranged a present apart, in the same
manner as we had made a list of the various articles for the Emperor's sisters,
omitting none, as such is the custom here. But the Secretary did not write
them down briefly, as I have done : he noted each article at great length,
calmly and quietly. We were therefore much astonished and struck with
amazement at the expanse of our humble offerings, and the long row of trays,
placed one by one ; until it pleased Almighty God to grant us relief from this
tedious operation : and the Secretary having finished his writing, we covered
them all up with their covers. The number of trays which we put in order
amounted to one hundred and eight ; for even the pvgov, and the small boxes
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 377
containing the reliqucs of the Saints, were placed in trays, for their greater
respect and veneration. The Secretary wrote not a single article without
examining it with his own eyes, and moving it from its place, as he came to each ;
and he multiplied his study and description of every object, that none might be
subject to loss, but be preserved, together with his register, to future ages ; so
that posterity should mention them, saying, 'In the time of the Emperor Alexius,
a Patriarch of Antioch came and presented to him this £c.' : for every Emperor
has a separate treasury, in which are seen the glorious and sacred reliques
obtained by him during his reign, that he may exult over his predecessors on
the throne by their multiplicity. This is their great ambition ; and for this
motive they take such exceeding care in their arrangement and description.
We were told, on this occasion, by the Interpreters, that within the course of
the last year they were visited by a Prior of a Convent from the Holy Mount.
After they had put questions to him concerning himself and his convent, he
informed them that, some eighty years ago, his brethren had sent to such an
Emperor such a Saint's relique. ' To be certain of the truth of what I tell you,"
said he, "open the treasury and registers, and you will see." Precisely as he had
told them, they found the relique. Now, observe this amazing regularity ! The
same, also, they observed at present with us.
They mentioned to us, that they had been looking into the chronicles of the
empire, and found that ninety-five years past, in the time of Czar Ivan, that is,
the Emperor John, so celebrated in our country, came Joachim, Patriarch of
Antioch, to visit them ; and that from that time, till now, no other Patriarch of
that See had come near them. They added, the Emperor, preserved of God,
Alexius, has therefore commanded that all the civilities paid to the former shall
be bestowed twofold on the Lord the present Patriarch, all out of his abundant
love for him, and his unbounded confidence in his ecclesiastical authority. It
is well known that the Alexandrian has been here many times, as the Patriarch
of Jerusalem has also, as well as the Constantinopolitan ; but from that period
to this, no Arabian Patriarch of Antioch had ever visited Muscovy.
To return : — After the Secretary had finished, and placed every thing in its
situation, we made him a present, and he departed. Early on the eve of
Monday, the Vazir sent the Perevodchik* (HepeBOANHKb), that is, the Grand
Interpreter, to our master, saying : " The Vazir kneels to your Holiness, and,
saluting you, wishes you joy of your arrival." On this, the Patriarch stood up,
* For the correct mode of writing this word, which I had heretofore given, as led by the Arabic,
Barifqjikos, I am indebted to a marginal note added to my Translation by the late Earl of Guilford.
378 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
according to custom, and prayed for his welfare. Then the Interpreter added :
" He informs you,, that the Emperor, preserved of God, the A.vro%gu,rug, bows to
your Holiness,, and asks after your health and welfare, begging that you will
prepare to meet him to-morrow." Hereupon our master gave thanks to Almighty
God, kneeling on his knees to the ground, and offering up many prayers for the
well-being of the Emperor ; and the messenger departed.
The joy of all of us was extreme, at the pleasing tidings the interpreters gave
us of the Emperor's love for our master, which was now indeed manifest : for it
had been usual for the Patriarchs who have visited Moscow not to be admitted
to the Emperor's presence until two weeks from the commencement of their
residence ; as it happened to Kyr Paisius of Jerusalem, and Kyr Athanasius
Patalaron, the deposed Patriarch of Constantinople : but to our master this
honour was granted on the third day, thanks be to Almighty God ! who has
healed our broken hearts, and, casting a look of mercy upon us, has inclined the
heart of the Emperor to the love of our master, and to kindness towards us.
On the morning of Monday, the twelfth of the month Ishbat, on which day
falls the commemoration of St. Meletius, Patriarch of Antioch, on this day —
mark the coincidence ! — it was the mighty Emperor's will to grant an interview
to Father Kyr Macarius, Lord Patriarch of Antioch ; and he sent for him an
imperial sania, at an early hour. As with the Russians, conformably to what we
before mentioned, on this day likewise falls the commemoration of St. Alexius,
the second Metropolitan who presided over the See of Moscow, the worker of
miracles, whose convent stood near to us, in the neighbourhood of the Patriarchal
palace ; whose body, with the sight of which we were afterwards blessed, is in
perfect preservation ; and the Russians celebrate the memory of these two great
Saints together: and as the birth, to which we formerly alluded, of the prince,
son of the Emperor, took place on this day last year, it became a festival of
threefold solemnity : for, in consequence of the death, which happened a
considerable time ago, of the Emperor's only son, named Demetrius, who was
grown up to years of maturity, the Russians rejoiced on the birth-day of this
infant prince with exceeding great joy ; and they have a custom, from the
Emperor to the humblest plebeian, of registering the births of their children,
and every year, on the anniversary days, of giving a great feast to their families
and friends. With all this, fortunately, fell in the arrival of the Patriarch of
Antioch ; and the Emperor sent him an invitation accordingly, to meet him on
this day, that all might rejoice together. Most of all did WE rejoice, who had
now been three full years and a day from the time of our departure from
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 379
Damascus, eagerly pressing forward to the sight of the Emperor's illustrious
countenance, and latterly also of his son's, whose beauties and excellencies be
exalted to the Pleiades, and the heavens beyond ! We now at length felt some
consolation for all our cares, labours, and griefs : but our fear and trepidation
were great ; as how could it be otherwise with us, who formerly, when we were
presented to Vasili Beg of Moldavia, experienced so much dread and awe, and
now were to meet the eye of the mighty Emperor, whose fame is spread over
the whole world, many of the slaves of whose slaves are higher in station than
Vasili, and command more respect!
To return : — The bells of the Patriarchal church, together with the great bell,
had been tolling since break of day ; and the Patriarch went to say mass before
the Emperor, in the before-mentioned Convent of Saint Alexius. At this
moment came the T^n^ctrixog or Secretary, who had already been with us,
carrying his register in his hand, and bringing with him one hundred janissaries,
in scarlet uniforms, to bear the trays. Calling them into the house by tens
and tens, he read in his register, saying, "No. I, image so and so ;" and, taking
it in his hand, gave it to be carried by one of them. Then he read, " The box
containing the wood of the Cross :" then, "The pvgov," &c. — A vase of scented
water, which we had brought with us, was found with its contents frozen within
it to the hardness of a stone : the crystal vessel itself was broken in two, and
there remained standing a solid piece of transparent rock, to the great amaze
ment of our countrymen who beheld it. — Passing with great composure, and a
regularity of order which surprised us, from one article to another, as he read
them in his list, and carefully looking at each a second time, the Secretary at
length completed the arrangement of all the trays in the court-yard.
As soon as the Emperor was come out from mass, and had taken his seat in
the Palatium or Grand Divan, in front of the Patriarchal Church, he sent, to
invite our Lord the Patriarch, a deputation of three great Archons, of the
rank of Kniazes : one was the Prime Minister ; the second was the Great
Sotnik, that is, the grandee who is charged with the superintendence of the
imperial table ; the third was the Khiyamji Bashi, or the superintendant of the
imperial pavilions. On their entrance into his apartment, our master turned
towards the images, chaunting "A%iov \<r<r\v with a low voice, according to the
practice of their superior Clergy when any person visits them ; and as they
knelt before him, he blessed them with the true Muscovite benediction, on their
forehead and shoulders. Then the first of them advanced, and said, whilst the
dragoman standing by him interpreted : " The august Emperor, greatest among
380 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Princes, the Avroxguruo, or Independent Sovereign of all the Countries of Russia,
both the Greater and the Less, Kniaz Alexius Michaelovitchov, bows to your
Holiness, and invites you to visit him, O holy Father, Kyr Kyr Macarius,
Patriarch of the great city of God, Antioch, and the provinces of Cilicia, Icaria*
Syria, Arabia, and of all the East ! that you may bless him with your illustrious
presence, and he may receive honour from you. He makes his dutiful inquiries
concerning your health, happiness, and safety." On hearing this, our master
raised his hands towards Heaven, and, whilst he knelt on the ground, offered up
many suitable prayers for him. The custom is, that whenever an Archon
comes to him from the Emperor, the prelate shall stand up to receive him : he
stands up likewise when the Emperor sends him a banquet, and whenever the
Emperor's name is mentioned. As the first had done, the other two Archons
advanced also, and made a similar address. The Patriarch had been robed in his
ftuvdvot,, in readiness, ever since the dawn of day : they took him then by the arms,
and, descending with him to the court, seated him in a magnificent carpeted
sania belonging to the Emperor, shewing him, at the same time, how to steady it.
At the right corner of the carriage stood the Archimandrite ; at the left the
Archdeacon, holding it : and one of the servants walked before with the crosier.
Preceding the carriage were the janissaries with the presents, one behind the
other, in a long straight line. As soon as we had gone forth from the gate of
the convent, we found ourselves between two rows of janissaries, standing in
close order, each with a large banner in his hand, on both sides of the
way, from the convent-gate to the imperial palace, according to the form
observed at the reception of a Patriarch or Ambassador from a crowned prince.
As he passed along, our Lord the Patriarch gave them his blessing, which they
received with bent bodies. When we came in front of the Great Church, the
Patriarch bowed to the image of Our Lady, which is over the gate ; and on
arriving at the Church of the Annunciation, which has nine cupolas shining with
much gold, they made him alight from the carriage within sight of the Emperor,
who was looking from a window of the divan, which commands a view of the
whole of these buildings and area ; and ascended with him, whilst he held his
crosier in his right hand and they supported him by the arms, up the steps, to
the portico of this beautiful church, to which he made the usual adorations.
Here he was met by three other Vazirs, who bowed to him, and addressed
him in the same words as the first. These took him by the arms, and conducted
him to the outer-door of the divan, where the Emperor sent three more great
Ministers to meet him. Having performed the same ceremony as before, these
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 381
led him to the inner-door, whence came forth three of the greatest officers to
receive him, and conduct him within the palace ; and at the same time came
forth to meet him all the Archons, and Vazirs, and nobles of the court. Here
the porters relieved him of his crosier; and when he entered, with us following
behind him, and approached the high imperial throne, he turned towards the
image placed over it, and chaunting "A?iov \trr}v with a low voice, as he had been
instructed by the dragomans, bowed to it, and then to the Emperor, who,
descending from his throne, advanced to meet him, with his head uncovered, and
bowing to the ground. As he raised himself, our Lord the Patriarch blessed
him with the Muscovite benediction, on his forehead, breast, and shoulders, and
kissed him on the shoulder, according to custom. The Emperor then kissed the
Patriarch's forehead and right hand, and they stood before each other. The
Emperor asked him, through the interpreter, saying, " Praise be to God, who
has the care of your safety ! — how are you ? how did you pass the roads ? what
is the state of your health ?" Our Lord the Patriarch replied cheerfully, with
many suitable prayers and compliments ; and the Emperor commanded him to be
seated. He sat down, therefore, on a chair near the throne; and the Emperor,
ascending to his throne, sat down also, and began to converse with him by the
interpreter, asking him of one thing and another. All the grandees, in the
mean time, were standing round the hall, in dresses loaded with gold, pearls,
and precious-stones, and with their heads uncovered; for the Emperor was
uncovered, as we mentioned before; and it is the custom that, in the pre
sence of the superior Clergy, he shall never appear, but always with his head
uncovered. How then must it be with his courtiers ! As for us, there fell upon
us, at this moment, exceeding great awe and dread. The Emperor's crown,
resembling a high calpack, covered with large pearls and the most precious
gems, was borne by one of his nobles ; together with the sceptre, a dark-coloured
staff, having the appearance of a friar's crook : I should have said it was the
Emperor's walking-stick. The upper garment which he wore, shaped like a
sako (flc *) was of heavy yellow Venetian brocade, fringed and laced all round
the skirts, seams, collar, breast, and sleeves, with gold lace and jewels, so as to
dazzle the sight.
As soon as the Emperor had taken his seat on the throne, one of his nobles
approached him, and raising up supported his right hand, and the Minister
invited us to kneel down and kiss it. We therefore entered the circle one after
* CaKKocb is the upper dress of an Archbishop.
382 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
another in rotation, and, bowing from afar, advanced, and kissed the Emperor's
hand : then we retired backwards, bowing to the Emperor twice. This cere
mony proceeded till all our servants had shared the same honour. The Greeks
call it P/X^/EMB %tgwv, or " kissing of hands." Every person who kisses the Em
peror's hand receives from his majesty a present, according to his degree : if he is
a Conventual Prior, a sarak of sables, a piece of silk, and a sum of money : if he
is a Priest or Friar, or one of their kindred, a sarak of marten furs, and a sum of
money. For this reason, all the Archimandrites, our fellow-travellers, and their
attendants, entered into the presence with us, and kissed the Emperor's hand
after us. Whoever comes in the course of the year to be admitted before the
Emperor, whether he be a poor man, or a Monk, or an Archimandrite, and even
if he be one of the Heads of the Clergy, must wait for a day like this, when a
Patriarch, or an Archbishop, or an Ambassador from some crowned prince comes,
and is invited by the Emperor to his presence to kiss his hand ; then the whole
body of them are ushered in after him.
We were told of the father of the present Emperor, the late sovereign Michael,
son of Theodorus, that once, when an Ambassador came from the Grand Turk,
and, being admitted to an interview, kissed the skirt of his robe, Michael, as a
token of his favour, merely placed his hand on the Ambassador's head. No
sooner was the Ambassador out of sight, than he called for soap and water, and
washed his hand, thinking it defiled by the touch. How remarkable is this
religious sincerity and faith !
We were told also, that formerly, when any Head of the Clergy from Greece,
or any Patriarch, came into Russia, this nation did not permit them to perform
mass in their churches, thinking them defiled from their intercourse with the
Turks ; nor was any Greek merchant allowed even to enter their churches, for
fear they should be defiled, as they considered him to be. If one of these
merchants should happen to settle among them in the name of the Emperor, and
marry a Russian woman, and become a dragoman, the Priests used to make him
stand outside the church for forty days, in the order of catechumens (^fijCf*) ;
then, anointing him with chrism, after many prayers, they led him into the
church, regarding him as purified.
Since the time of their being visited by Jeremiah, Patriarch of Constantinople,
Theophanes, Patriarch of Jerusalem, and others, and mixing in their society,
they have become familiarised with strangers ; but up to the present time, if an
Ambassador comes to them from the Turks or Franks, they do not permit him
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 383
to ascend by the steps of the Church of the Annunciation to the divan, but
make him enter by an outer door in the middle of the palace-yard ; for they
avoid strangers to their religion with the utmost abhorrence, of which we saw
surprising instances.
To return : — After the Archimandrites had kissed hands, they brought out
their papers with which they had been furnished by their convents, or any tes
timonials they might have received from any Patriarch, addressed to the Em
peror, and declaring them worthy persons. These were taken from them by the
Ministers ; and given to the Perevodchik, to be translated into Russian, and read to
the Emperor. Our master had letters from the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and from
Kyr Paisius, the Constantinopolitan, in his recommendation and as testimonials
to his true character. These he presented to his majesty, who stood up to
receive them, and sealed them with a kiss. Immediately afterwards he said to the
Patriarch, "O Bami-oniKa! (that is, O Father!) for your sake I came to Moscow,
that I might behold you and receive your blessing. A long time ago I heard of
your coming to sec me; and I was extremely anxious to meet your Holiness, and
to become acquainted with you. I entreat you ever to remember me in your
prayers, and to supplicate blessings for me." Our master said : " I am a sinful
man ; but God will grant you your heart's desire, and protect you, and fulfil all
your hopes. May He ever favour you with victory, as He favoured the Great
Constantino; and make your name, as He made his, instead of Avrozgdrug, Movo-
xgurag ! May He confer upon you the inheritance of his throne for ever ! "
When the Emperor heard these words, he rejoiced with exceeding great joy,
and, bowing to the Patriarch, kissed his hand a second time.
O *
As they were thus standing together, the janissaries entered, bearing the pre
sents into the centre of the Hall. When they were all placed in order, the Va/ir
began to take up tray after tray, and hand them to our Lord the Patriarch, who
handed them to the Emperor ; who, as he received each tray, kissed the Patriarch's
hand, and what was in it, and gave it to the Treasurer standing by his side ; and
the Treasurer set it in its place in the window. In the mean time, the Great
Registrar, with his register in his hand, read with a loud voice, saying : ' The
Patriarch, Kyr Macarius of Antioch., presents to your Majesty so and so." Thus,
whenever the Emperor received a tray into his hand, he was able to name what
it contained, without asking our master to describe it. How admirable this ac
curacy ! The Emperor questioned our master concerning the pistachios, lada-
num, and manna only, with which the Russians, as we have already said, were
E E E
38-t TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
entirely unacquainted. Smelling the pistachios, and admiring their fragrance,
he said, " What a blessed country is that of Antioch ! How wonderful that it
should produce such fruits as these !"
When the present to the Emperor was completed, and he had received tray
after tray to the last, he turned to the Treasurer, and commanded him to
place them one hy one in the window.
Then the Registrar began to read : " And he presents to the illustrious Em
press, Kniazina Maria, so and so ;" whilst the Vazir handed the trays to our
master, and he to the Emperor, till they were all presented. His Majesty then
ordered the Treasurer to place them in a different window.
Then the Registrar said : " And he presents to the Prince Alexius, son of the
Emperor Alexius (for they always name him so), such and such things ;" till the
presentation of all was completed : and the Emperor commanded the Treasurer
to dispose them in a separate place by themselves, that there might be no
confusion.
Then the Registrar continued : " And he presents to the Princess, daughter of
the Emperor Michael, Kniazina Irene, so and so : To the Princess Kniazina
Anna Michaelovna, so and so: To the Princess Kniazina Tatiane Michaelovna
so and so." These presents the Emperor commanded to be placed each apart.
Then the Registrar proceeded :- "' And he presents to the Princess Kniazina
Eudocia Alexiovna, the Princess Kniazina Martha Alcxiovna, and the Princess
Kniazina Anna Alexiovna, so and so ;" till all the presents were gone through.
The whole of this he read with a very loud voice.
Then the Emperor went to look over all the trays; and having seen that each
present was placed apart from the rest, he came and thanked our master, bowing
to him. Returning his humble obeisance, our master said, " Do not find fault
with us, nor reprove us, O august Emperor ! for our country is far remote, and
we have been full three years since we set forth from our See. Your Majesty is
glorious, and your empire great : accept, then, this little for much !" When the
Emperor heard his speech, that he had been absent from home three years, he
marvelled greatly, and began to conceive great affection for him. Thanking him
for his presents, he said, " They are worth many treasures to me."
It was in the Greek language that our master spoke to the interpreter ; for, as
I mentioned before, we had learnt it well, by means of our intercourse with that
nation. This was a great blessing from God to us : for in this country they are
unable to speak a single word of Turkish ; nor will they endure the sound of it,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
lest their ears should be defiled, as they imagine. All the interpreters cautioned
our master never to speak in it, on any occasion. But though we had learnt
the Greek language, we had not the facility of speaking quick, which is the
peculiarity of that language, and as the Greeks do, whose tongue is light. In
his conversation, therefore, with the interpreter, our Lord the Patriarch hesitated
a little in his speech ; and the Emperor asked, " Why does he not speak quick ?"
The interpreter answered, " Because he has only recently learnt the language : but
lie knows Turkish : if it is your Majesty's pleasure, he will converse in that."
" God forbid," said the Emperor, " that so holy a person should defile his mouth
with that filthy language!" for their abhorrence of the Turks is extreme. At
the Emperor's gate are seventy interpreters who know languages, but with the
Arabic tongue not one of them is conversant. God, in His mercy, vouchsafed to
us the Greek language ; otherwise we should have been much confounded.
To return : — The interpreter then made a sign to our master ; and he arose
and came before the image, and bowed to it first, and afterwards to the Emperor,
who returned the salutation, and bade him adieu. After the Patriarch had given
him his blessing a second time, the Emperor took him by the arm, and, having
led him near the door, parted with him. Hereupon the whole body of Archons
crowded round him, and attended him to the outside ; so that all present were
astonished at the great respect which was shewn him. The interpreters after
wards told us, that the honours done by the Emperor to the Patriarch of
Antioch on this day he had never conferred on any Patriarch before. First, it
was the custom, that, when a Patriarch came to Moscow, he should be delayed
a week or two ere he had an audience of the Emperor : secondly, when Kyr
Paisius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, was admitted to the presence, the Emperor
only descended to the edge of the third step of his throne, and shook hands with
him ; whereas, now, he had advanced to meet our master at a considerable
distance : when, too, the former offered to him his presents, he received from
him with his own hand only the sacred objects, and then went up and sat on his
throne, whilst his officers received the rest : thirdly, when he dismissed the
Jerusalemite, he did not walk with him, nor lead him by the arm, as he
did our master, to the door : fourthly, in particular honour to our Patriarch, he
sent all his Grandees to attend him to the outside of the hall-door, where, after
he had given them his blessing, they took leave of him to return : fifthly, after
they had mounted him in the sania, the Emperor sent some Archons with him,
to conduct him to the palace of the Patriarch, that he might have an immediate
interview with him ; but it used to be customary for the visiter to wait three
386 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
days after his audience at court, and then present a cholqfita or petition to the
Emperor, praying that he would grant him permission to go to the Patriarch ;
whereupon the Emperor would send orders to the Patriarch to prepare for the
visit : whereas, now, he sent our master to him immediately,, giving notice, at
the same time, to the Patriarch of his approach. The Jerusalemite, indeed,
had with him some five-and-thirty persons in his suite ; Archimandrites, many ;
Priests, many ; and Friars, many ; grooms for his horses ; relations, who were
sisters' sons, and brothers' sons, and brothers ; Archons, who had been Greek
merchants, of whom he took as many as he pleased, and dignified them with the
title of Archons, &c. ; for it is the nature of the Greeks to love grandeur and supe
riority excessively. Taking promiscuously from the crowd, he formed companies
whom he enlisted, some as Archimandrites, Priests, and Clericals from the Jaljala
Convent ; others, as from Bethlehem, St. Michael's, St. Saba's, the Convent of
the Crucifixion, &c. ; and this for the purpose of being attended by a numerous
train, and still more for the great lucre which would accrue to him from them,
first and last : for whenever there came to them a gratuity from the Emperor,
either for themselves or their convents, he was to use it as he pleased. Tims,
when the merchants whom he constituted Archons received the customary allow
ance from the Emperor, of sables and sums of money, he took their portions
from them, with their consent. In like manner did Patalaron, and most of the
Greek Metropolitans ; and they never failed to write each of them down as a
relation, for the benefit of themselves and him, calling him in Greek 'Avs-^iog,
in Russian
SECT. IV.
VISIT TO THE PATRIARCH OF MOSCOW.— ENTERTAINMENT AT THE
EM PER OR' 8 TA BLE.
To return : — As soon as our Lord the Patriarch approached the first flight of
steps leading to the Patriarchal palace, he was met by two great Archimandrites,
who bowed to the earth, and thus recited, from the contents of a paper they had
with them : " O holy father, of all felicity*, Lord Kyr Kyr Macarius, Patriarch
of the great city of God, Antioch, and of the provinces of Cilicia, Icaria, Syria,
Arabia, and of all the East ! your brother and associate in the divine mysteries,
the Lord Kyr Nicon, Archbishop of the city of Moscow,, Patriarch of all the
* The expressions tbj^\ ^^glXll, 'o^l ciXJl which I may have translated too literally, mean "whom
every felicity, every blessing, attend," or attends.
TRAVELS OF MACAR1US.
provinces of Great and Little Russia, has sent us Archimandrites of the Convents—
in the towns— to meet your Holiness; in conformity with the saying of our Lord
the Messiah, in His holy Gospel, " He who receives you, receives me :" and
they again bowed to him, to the ground. They read their address in Russian,
whilst the interpreter translated it word for word into Greek. Our master
returned his compliments in suitable terms, and gave them his blessin«-
o"
Then they took him by the arms, in the place of the Archons, and ascended
the iirst flight of steps. When he came to the second, he was met by two
other Archimandrites, who, having spoken and acted like the former, took the
support of his arms in succession.
On our approaching the outer apartment, where the third flight of steps is,
the Patriarch Nicon came forth, robed in a green-coloured velvet puvlvu,, deeply
embroidered with figures in red velvet, in the centre of which were the
Cherubim figured in gold and pearls. The straps were of white leather, with
a red streak in the middle. On his head lie wore a white latia of Damask silk,
surmounted with a gold arch, in which was a cross of pearls and precious-stones.
Above his eyes, in front, were the Cherubim in pearls ; and the edges of the
latia were laced with gold and set with precious-stones. Holding his crosier in
his hand, he advanced towards our master with the utmost ceremony and
respect, saying, " O holy father, of all benediction, Lord Kyr Macarius, Patriarch
of the great city of God, Antioch, and of the provinces of Cilicia, Icaria, Syria,
Arabia, and of all the East! your Holiness now resembles our Lord the
Messiah ; and I am like that Zacchaeus, who was little of stature, and sought to
see Jesus, and climbed up into a sycamore-tree to see him. Now, in like
manner, I, a sinful man, am come out to behold your Holiness." As he spoke,
the interpreter translated his speech into Greek, word for word. Then he took
him by the hand, and led him into the palace, which they had on this occasion
spread with large carpets ; and they two advanced, according to custom, to the
stand of images always placed over the prelate's seat. The tapers were burning,
and they recited "A?iov ia-riv, bowing to the ground and to each other. Then the
Muscovite took off his lalia, and asked our Lord the Patriarch to give him his
blessing. With great reluctance, and after much refusal, he at length blessed
him on his forehead, breast, and shoulders, according to their practice ; and they
sat down to converse together by means of the interpreter. Afterwards the
Muscovite arose, and, going into an inner chamber, put off his green pavdva,
and put on another of embroidered purple, which he usually wore, with a white
latia, figured in front with the Cherubim in gold cloth, and no other ornament—
388 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
his usual covering. He changed also his cassock of green velvet for one of red,
according to the custom always observed when Archons or common persons are
in the presence of Priests, or Priests in presence of a Patriarch or Archbishop ;
and also in the church.
It happened, that after our master had gone out from the Emperor, they called
in the Archbishop of Servia, the pretended Patriarch, whom we mentioned, in
our account of Potiblia, as having come from Moldavia in great pomp and
splendor, and as having been admitted by the Voivode of that place into the
interior. His principal object was, to have an interview with the Emperor before
he went on his expedition ; but he was unable to overtake him : and when he
arrived at Kalokha, and was passing onwards, the Ministers, Lieutenants of the
Emperor, turned him back, a distance of three days' journey, to his great
ignominy and confusion, saying, " We never heard before that, in the habitable
world, there were more than four Patriarchs ; those of the East ; and our own
Patriarch, who was created by their permission. This is one reason : the second
is, the Emperor is not present : when he comes, then come." On hearing this,
and seeing the disgrace which was fallen upon him, he began to beat his fore
head, and to weep and lament over his condition : but as the writing and
language of the Servians, Bulgarians, Cossacks, and Muscovites are the same, or
with little difference, he wrote a Letter to the Patriarch, in supplication and
humility, saying, that he put himself on the name of the Emperor for the rest of
his life ; and as it is the custom here that even a murderer escapes death if he
makes this declaration, they sent to bring him back. At his first interview with
the Patriarch, the latter chid him severely, and forbad him ever again to let the
word Patriarch be heard from his mouth. Prostrating himself on the ground^
he begged pardon, and put himself on the name of the Emperor. Afterwards,
his disciples abhorred to stay with him ; for life in Muscovy is very strict ; so
much so, that no foreigner can endure its severity ; for a man feels himself as
though he were always in prison. Subject to its discipline, if he commits a
faux-pas, or gets drunk, he falls under every sort of ignominy, and is finally
proscribed and sent into banishment. For this reason, all the merchants,
however splendid their wealth and circumstances, and even those from Persia,
conduct themselves with the utmost reverence and gravity.
To return : — After the aforesaid Archbishop had kissed the EmperorY hand,
he came to the Patriarch's palace ; and kneeling to the two Patriarchs, received
their blessing, as usual. At this moment the Emperor sent one of his uJ.ies
to invite the two Patriarchs together to his imperial table; for (may Go.i
TRAVELS OF IUACARIUS.
perpetuate his empire for ever !) lie was pleased to fill up the measure of his
great kindness to our master this day. It had been usual, after the Patriarch
had kissed his hand, and departed to his mansion, that the Emperor should send
him a banquet and wine from his table ; but now he invited him to sit with him
at dinner ; and this was a great honour, and a splendid favour.
The two Patriarchs went therefore together to another very large hall, built
of wood, with tables spread all round it, The august Emperor was sitting in
the centre, at a large table entirely covered with silver. As soon as they
entered, he stood up, and, taking off his crown, advanced towards them, bowino- :
at the same time they both gave him their benediction, after they had recited
"Af/ov Iffriv before the images, which were held over his head ; prostrating them
selves on the ground with all present. Then the servants took from them their
crosiers, and stood, holding them up, at a distance. The Patriarch of Moscow
sat on the left of the Emperor, and the Antiochian next to him. The Sotniks,
who are the waiters at table, now set silver dishes, with three silver cups, before
the Emperor, and in like manner before the Patriarchs. The Emperor's
Ministers and Nobles were seated at a long table ; but before each took his seat,
he advanced and bowed to the earth before the Emperor, and then passed to
his place : they were all to the left of our Lord the Patriarch. The Arch
bishop of Servia, the Archbishop of Razainov, and the rest of the Archiman
drites, were seated at a distant table on the right of the Emperor ; and we sat,
with the rest of the Heads of Convents, the Priests, and the Monks, at tables
placed in rows in the middle of the hall. All of us, before we sat down, bowed
to the Emperor at a distance.
Then they all stood up; and the two Patriarchs said a prayer over the table,
and gave their blessing to the Emperor and to the banquet. Afterwards the
Sotniks all came forward with large long loaves, which the Emperor sent them
to distribute to the whole of the persons present : first to the Patriarchs, who
bowed their heads towards him ; then to all the grandees, each of whom stood
up in his place, and bowed to him at a distance ; until he sent to us also ;— for
this is the custom at the imperial table. The meaning of this is, as if the
Emperor proclaimed, " He who eats of this, my bread, and abandons me, may
God abandon him!" The first morsel they all tasted was this bread, with
caviare.
Then the Emperor stood up, and presented to each of the Patriarchs three
cups of wine together. They bowed their heads to him, and set the cups
390 TRAVELS OF MACAIIIUS.
before them. Thus he sent to all the grandees; whilst the Sotnik, who took
the cup from him, cried out from afar the name of the person to whom the
Emperor wished to give it, with a loud voice, saying, " Ya Boris, Ivonovitch!"*
(who was the Grand Vazir,) calling him by his name, and the name of his father ;
for it is the custom in this country never to call any person, whether man or
woman, but by their own name conjointly with that of their father, saying,
" Such an one, son of such an one," or " Such an one, daughter of such an one."
The banquet-rooms in this country, that is, the rooms furnished with tables,
to which they gave the name Palat, are square apartments, with one pillar in
the centre, built of stone or planed boards. Around them are benches, with
shelves one above another, covered with fine linen. On these shelves they set
gilt silver-cups of various shapes and forms, large and small ; with octagonal and
round bowls, or long, in the form of boats : and with changes of these they
serve the wine to the company, each round.
The Sotniks, that is, the Chashnigirs or tasters, and the Matarjis or wine-
bearers, were from two to three hundred persons, all Grandees and Agas, in
splendid dresses, their breasts covered with braids of large pearls and precious-
stones, gold brocade, and so forth, according to their well-known uniforms,
the coats of which are of a light-blue colour, and the calpacks of a light-brown
or mulberry. They all stood in readiness to serve the whole company, arranged
in troops for each particular service. Some served the bread, some the plates
of meat, some the cups of wine : every tiling they carried first to the Emperor,
who sent them with it to the several grandees at table ; thus dispensing even the
large loaves and the largest dishes of meat ; first to the Patriarch, then to the
grandees ; next to the inferior Clergy and the Archimandrites; then to the rest of
the company, who kept what was brought to them, and sent it home as a great
blessing to their families, from the Emperor's table, and from his mercy : for as
the Sotniks carried each dish to the person to whom the Emperor gave it, they
cried aloud, saying, " O, such an one, son of such an one ! Gosudari Tsar Alexey/'
that is, our Lord the Emperor Alexius, "gives you this, of his mercy:" then that
person stood up, and, bowing to the Emperor from his place, and kissing the
bread or meat, received it from the attendant. There never was more than one
dish, or perhaps two, before the Emperor ; which they changed every moment.
The kinds of meat brought up were extremely various, and all of fish ; for no
" Ya Baris, Ivanovitch !" " () Bar is, Son of John !"— Baris Ivanovitch Morrsof was Minister to
Alcxey Michaelovitch, and Husband to the Empress's Sister.— EARL OF GUILFORD.
TRAVELS OF MACAKIUS. ;$()|
flesh-meat whatever was served to table on this day, to conform with the regu
lations of the convents, or as though the Emperor himself were really and truly
a Monk.
More remarkable still was what we saw next ; a circumstance which excited
our utmost surprise : for, as to the food, this was the week of 'Airoxpiu,, or
' abstinence from flesh-meat,' and therefore its absence from the Emperor's table
was not altogether so extraordinary. But mark what happened ! Immediately
after the Patriarchs had blessed the table., came one of the little ' kvcvyvuffrou , who,
placing a desk in the middle of the hall, with a large book, began to read, with
a very loud voice, the Life of Saint Alexius, patron of the festival ; and thus con
tinued from the beginning to the end of the repast, according to the regulation
of monasteries ; so that we were exceedingly astonished, and looked upon our
selves as though we were inmates of a convent. How wonderful are these
things which we witnessed! What a blessed day was this, wherein we beheld
this Prince of all sanctity, who surpasses the most religious devotees in the
purity of his life and his strict humility ! O illustrious Emperor ! what is this
which you have done this day ; which you do constantly ? when we saw that,
out of respect for the Patriarchs, you allowed no flesh-meat to be served to your
table during this week of abstinence ! What did you also do, which is scarcely
done in the convents ? You had a reader to read from the Fathers, and
chaunters, hour after hour, to sing before you ! God perpetuate your reign and
empire, and humble your enemies under your feet, for this humility and purity
which you shew forth in your life. How different the banquet of Vasili and
Matthi, who were not worthy to be your menial servants, with their drums, and
pipes, and horns, and trumpets, and Turkish songs ! and their sitting on
high thrones in the centre of the apartment, whilst the Patriarch was seated
below, on their right handf . For your uprightness and justice, God has given
you the empire, and increased it, Wherever you go, victory marches before
you and your armies. If Our Lord, glory to His Name ! gave not victory to
you, who in purity of conduct and continual perseverance in prayer and watch-
ings surpass the devout anchorets who inhabit the deserts, to whom should He
grant it ? "
Nor was this all he did, but, out of veneration for the Patriarchs, he remained
from the beginning to the end of the repast with his head uncovered, amidst
t The right-hand side at the banquet seems to be considered by the Archdeacon us the less honour
able. He particularly mentioned before, that the Patriarchs vvero seated during dinner on the left hand
of the Emperor.
F F F
392 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
that severe cold and rigid frost He ate little himself; being rather engaged in
conversation with the Patriarch of Moscow,, and in paying great attention to
our master, whom he served with meat and drink copiously ; for he loved him
with sincere affection, by what we observed on the present occasion.
The first thing they gave us to drink was Cretan wine, of admirable quality,,
both for strength and flavour : afterwards they gave us Kirschwasser, and diffe
rent kinds of mead.
Now for the description of the meats. Dishes were brought in of fish, dressed
with such art, that they appeared to contain stuffed lambs. From the abundant
variety of the finny tribe in this country, they are enabled to cook them in a
multiplicity of ways, as we had long heard. Throwing away all the rough and
bony parts, they pound the remainder in mortars, till it becomes a paste : this
they mix with a great quantity of onions and saffron, and put into moulds of the
shape of lambs and geese : then they fry these artificial animals with oil, in
very deep pans as deep as a draw-well, so that the frying penetrates them to
the inmost ; and, serving them up, carve them as if they were cutting into solid
muscles of white flesh : their taste is excellent, and an ignorant person might
suppose them to be real lambs. In this manner they make various kinds of
pastry, with the flour and with cheese fried in butter, long and round, as cakes,
lozenges, &c. Then they have puddings, like those usually made of bread,
composed of small fish, as small as worms, and baked or fried in the same way.
All these kinds were now served up by the Sotniks. Every forty or fifty of
them came in troops, close behind each other, bringing dishes of various sorts ;
which the Emperor sent them, unceasingly, to distribute to the guests all round
the tables, from the beginning till the end of the repast; so that we were grieved
to see the great fatigue they endured, standing on their legs or running about
the whole time. But most of all were we distressed for the Emperor, who ate
nothing at all. The Perevodchik and the other interpreters were also standing,
during dinner-time, at a little distance in front of the Emperor ; who, whenever
he wanted to ask our Lord the Patriarch any question, gave the word to them.,
and they returned with his answer. On that table were placed the most splen
did cups : round it were standing Archons, each of whom was constantly
employed in pouring liquor into goblets for the service of the guests.
Thus they continued carrying on the feast, from early in the afternoon to
near midnight, until our very souls groaned within us. At length the Emperor
stood up, and all the Sotniks in a body approached him with silver goblets, first
of wine : of this he presented to the Patriarch, who offered a prayer for him,
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and the singers chaunted the Uo^u^oviov. Afterwards he presented wine, with
his own hand, to all the other guests, to eaeli his cup : for this is the Emperor's
round of drink, which they quaff' out of love to him. During this ceremony,
one of the Archons, of his especial service, stood by his side, holding his right
arm. Each guest, as he came forward, bowed to him, first at a distance, down
to the ground : then he advanced quickly, and, kissing the Emperor's hand,
received the cup from him : then lie drew backwards, and drank it off' : after
wards, bowing to the Emperor a second time, he retired. In this manner we
also entered with the rest, until the whole company had gone through the
ceremony.
Then the Patriarch prayed a second time, and the singers chaunted a
HoXv^oviov for the Empress and her son Alexius. In like form the Emperor
again gave drink to all the guests, in goblets and other vessels, with his own
hand, till the second round was complete. Afterwards the singers performed
a YIoXv^oviov for the Patriarch of Moscow, Kyr Nicon ; at the conclusion of
which the Emperor first drank by himself, and then dispensed the wine to all
the guests.
Then he commanded them to perform a UoXv^oviov for the Patriarch of
Antioch, and for all the Archons ; which made the fourth round, and was distri
buted by the Patriarch with his own hand, whilst the Archdeacon supported
his arm.
To the Emperor, at the beginning of each round, they presented a beautiful
gilt cup, from which he drank first : then he passed it to the Patriarchs. The
whole of this time the Emperor never ceased standing, till he had given drink to
all ; and when he wished to give orders to any of the servants, he went to them
himself and talked to them, so that we were surprised at his exceeding conde
scension. God preserve his empire for ever !
It was near upon midnight when, by the mercy of the Almighty, the Emperor
rose from table, and the Patriarchs said grace. The Protopapas, with his
attendant Priests, and the Archdeacon with his, then came into the middle of
the hall, and brought us the ITai/ay/a in a beautiful gilt silver Pyx with angels
all round it, supporting a handsome porcelain bowl in which the Ilavcty/cc was
contained. After they had prayed over it as usual, all partook of it, the Arch
deacons present having incensed all the guests with thuribles, which each held
in his hand, in the shape of crowns.
At the conclusion of the prayers for grace, the servants brought panniers to
collect the fragments from the tables, according to the practice of the convents,
31H TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Then the Emperor bade adieu to our Lord the Patriarch, with a bow : and
after the latter had given him his blessing, the Emperor appointed Archons to
attend him, with large tapers, until we reached our convent door ; all the
Ministers and Grandees having taken leave of him previously, on the outside of
the palace.
The poor janissaries, who were placed in ranks along the road, had been
standing all the while, with their banners in their hands, in all that cold and
snow and intense frost, until now, when our Lord the Patriarch dismissed them,
and they departed. As for ourselves, we could hardly believe that we had got
back to our convent, so perished were we with the fatigue of standing and with
the cold. What must have been the condition of the Emperor, who stood on his
legs about four hours, with his head uncovered, whilst he gave drink to his guests
for four rounds ! God preserve his life, and exalt his banners in honour and tran
scendency ! This, however, did not suffice him ; but the moment we arrived at
our lodgings, the bells tolled, and he entered, attended by his Archons, with the
Patriarch, into the Great Church, where they assisted at Vespers and Lauds,
and remained till dawn of day ; for it \vas the Great Lauds that were performed.
What amazing strength, and constancy in the endurance of fatigue, under such
circumstances, as were severe enough to confound our senses, and to turn the
hair of a young man grey !
To the reader of this narrative which I have chronicled, my request is, that
he will pray for me, a weak servant, Paul by name, Archdeacon — that God will
forgive my sins, who was pleased to grant me facility and to open the powers of
my mind, so that my intellects were expanded, and I penned this whole nar
ration, to the composition and details of which many would be unequal.
Straining my attention, my thoughts and senses, to the utmost,, I made vast
exertion, and laboured severely to extract it from the rough draughts, a whole
year after their notation. My entire ambition is, to create to myself a memorial
in my lifetime, that among posterity may be found some one who will feel a
sympathy towards me, in the same manner as we used to sympathize with the
late Metropolitan Isa, who was taken as a companion by the Patriarch Hano, on
his visit to this country, when we read his metrical composition : but, I say,
poor and weak as I am, I have much surpassed him in my humble narrative :
for he produced not sufficient for one hour's perusal ; whereas I have produced
a large book, praise and thanksgiving to Almighty God ! whom we implore to
open the eyes of our understandings, and to alleviate our misfortunes, that we
may return to our native land, and sit down in it once more : for though we are
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. :}<).;>
here like princes, it is not to be compared with living among our families and
friends, from whom our much-protracted absence has ulcered our hearts.
Lighten, therefore, the way to us, O God ! that we may return to our beloved
country ; and we will thank Thee, and praise Thee, our lives long !
This, then, is what I have written, with much labour, diligence, and exertion,
and with many erasures and corrections, concerning the meeting of the Patriarch,
Ivyr Macarius, the Antiochian, with Alexius, Emperor of Muscovy and of all
the Countries of the Russians.
SECT. V.
/'/J/vS/^VYN TO THE PATRIARCH OP MOSCOW AND THE RUSSIAN GRAXDEES.-
rEXEHATION OF THE RUSSIANS FOR CHURCHES AND IMAGES.— THE I R
HUILDINGS, TITLES OF HONOUR, LAWS, AND CUSTOMS.
To return :— On the second day after our audience of the Emperor, we went
with our present to the Patriarch, carried by our servants, the account of which
is this :— An ancient painting, to represent the Descent of Our Lord from the
Cross: for there is nothing more highly valued by them in this country
than ancient Greek paintings, for which they have a very great religious
veneration. Then a vessel of old pJgoj>, and another of new ; a Finger of
St. Stephen, the first Deacon ; a portion of the Reliques of St. Anthony the
Great; and a crosier, blessed with their virtues, dressed and looped with
pearls*, which we made in Constantinople, according to what the Metropolitans
with their Patriarch used to say to our master- ' Your Holiness is in the place
of Peter the Apostle, and you have power to give crosiers for the guidance of
tin- flock, to whom you please." Then a black branch of the palm-tree from
Mount Sina, incense of stacte, a camphire taper, dates, ladanum, scented and
Aleppo soap, pistachios, sugar-confections, saffron, mastich, pots of preserved
ginger, purple-wool of Angora, and a black silk sash.
When, by the permission of his Archons and the door-keepers, we went into
his apartment, he came to meet us ; and bowing to the picture, kissed it, and
was much pleased with it. Afterwards he distributed amongst us silvered
images of Our Lady, according to their practice in making presents ; and he
gave us all his blessing, and we retired. Then we began to dispense our
* This I am far from being sure is the right interpretation of the toM
396 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
presents among the Ministers and great Officers of State, to whom we went
round, attended by one of the interpreters. To them we presented, in trays
covered with brocade, first, a portion of the reliques of some Saint ; then pvgov,
consecrated candles, and earth from Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and the banks of
the Jordan ; fragments of the pillar of St. Simon of Aleppo ; incense of stacte,
dates, ladanmn, five or six kinds of soap, scented, and of Aleppo ; and of every
thing we had with us a very small quantity, which they receive in the light
of a blessing : but they are chiefly delighted with sacred objects and ancient
paintings ; nor did they take from us the Angora wools, or the silk handkerchiefs
of Gaza, or the satin shawls of Ilasal, but with difficulty ; for they have abun
dance of these articles at hand.
Except at the earliest hour of the morning, we were never able to have
interviews with them ; for each has a handsome church in his palace, which he
vies with others in beautifying and adorning inside and out ; and to it are
attached three or four Priests for the private service of the Archon and his
family, by whom they are fed and clothed. During the whole course of the
year, not one of the Archons ever goes, on any day, to stand in the presence of
the Emperor, until the Priests have recited before them the prayers appointed
for the day, from the Midnight Prayer to the end of the Hours, including the
Canons and the Nones; and have afterwards performed mass for him in the
church. In each of their houses are an innumerable quantity of fine images,
covered with gold, silver, and gems : and not only are they placed within the
house, but outside, on all the doors, even the doors of the court.
Nor is it the Archons only who thus adorn their houses ; but in a similar way
the peasants also in the villages ; for the love of all the Russians for images, and
their faith in them, are exceeding great. Before each image they burn a
taper, morning and evening : but the grandees are not content with burning
one taper only; they have chandeliers, rising to the top of which are large
brass vessels filled with wax, in which they fasten wicks, that burn day and
night, for a length of time.
When we went to visit the Archons, we used to have to wait till they were at
leisure from their prayers, which they say in their own apartments, before the
images : mass they have performed in the church. On entering, \ve bowed to
the images, according to their practice ; and the Archon advanced towards the
Archimandrite, to receive his blessing. Then he bowed to us, and we to him ;
and we said, through the interpreter : " The Father and Lord Patriarch, Kyr
Macarius, Patriarch of the great city of God, Antioch, of the provinces of
TRAVELS OF MACAIULS. ;i97
Cilicia, Icaria, Syria, and Arabia, and of the whole East, lias sent us to pre
sent to your Excellency a blessing, with salutation and prayer ; and we beg
leave to ask concerning your health and welfare." On hearing this, he pro
strated himself on the ground, and, striking it with his head, replied : " Cholom
Beyat Liosodari Swiatishimo Patriarcha Makaria Antioshiskov ;" that is, " Our
prostration on the earth to our Lord the holy father Macarius, Patriarcli of
Antioch." Then he took every tray, and kissed it: and at the conclusion we
bowed a second time to the images, and, after the Archimandrite had again
given his blessing to the Archon, we bowed to him, and retired, accompanied by
him to the outside : for it is the custom with them, that when an honoured
stranger visits them, they meet him outside the door, and make him enter
before them to their inner apartment, signifying by this that he is master of the
house ; and so, on his going out, they follow him behind.
When they gave us a cup of wine, the Archon used to present it to us with
both his hands, such is their custom : as for the brandy, it was with difficulty
we were persuaded to drink it, as it is reprehensible for Monks to do so.
What most surprised us was, their humility and condescension to the poor,
and their many prostrations and metanoias, from morning till evening, before any
image they chanced to see. Whenever they came within sight of a church,
however distant, and its crosses glittered in their eyes, if there were ten churches
all round them, they turned to each, and bowed to it with three metanoias. Nor
was it the men only who did this, but the women still more.
The palaces in this city are mostly new, of stone or brick ; and built on the
European plan, lately taught the Muscovites by the Nemsas, or Germans. We
gaped with astonishment at their beauty and decoration, their solidity and
skilful arrangement, their elegance, the multitude of their windows, and of the
sculptured pillars on every side of them ; the height of their stories, as though
they were castles ; their immense towers ; and the manifold variety of the
painting, in oil colours, both of their interior and exterior walls, which you might
suppose were covered with slabs of real variegated marble, or with minute
Mosaic ; for the bricks made in this country are very fine and smooth, and
like the best bricks of Antioch, in hardness, weight, and redness. They use as
much sand as possible in their composition, and are possessed of great skill in
their manufacture. They are vastly cheap : a thousand of them may be bought
for a piaster : on this account, most of the buildings here are of brick. The
lapidaries, with their iron tools, execute in it admirable engravings, not to be
distinguished from stone. Their lime also is very fine and strong, and holds
:*98 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
better than the lime of Aleppo : with this, when they have completed their
brick building, they whiten it over ; and it adheres to it so firmly, that it will not
fall off' in a hundred years. By this means the fabric has all the appearance of
stone. The most surprising of it is, that after they have taken the bricks from
the kiln, they set them out in piles in the open air, covering them only with
boards; and there they stand exposed to the rain and snow for five or six years,
as we saw, without being spoiled, or in the least altered.
All their structures here are done with mortar, in the same manner as the
ancients built the ancient edifices in our country. Having slacked their lime,
they mix it with sifted sand : then they sprinkle their bricks with water, and
dip them in lime ; and having set them in a double layer along the Avail, they
cram the insterstice with brickbats, and pour on mortar till it is filled up : in
less than an hour's time the whole is firmly cemented, and becomes one
solid mass.
Builders are able to do their work no more than six months in the year :
from the time the frost thaws, about the middle of the month Nisan, until the
end of Teshrin Alavval.
It is usual, in the structures of this city, for every house to be bound with
huge iron bars, both inside and out ; and the doors and windows are all made of
bright iron, beautifully wrought. For the staircase, they build a vaulted tower
with four pillars and four arches : on the centre of each arch stands the foot of
the next above, with admirable artifice ; for they cut a single stone in a hand
some form, and, perforating it, pass through it an iron mace, with grooves in the
knobs, which they rivet ; upon this they raise the structure, which presents
a miracle of art, being detached in the middle, and standing with a gentle
slope*. These fine edifices, which we beheld in this city, very much excited
our admiration.
To return : — The title of most of the great men here is Kniazi ; the meaning
of which is, 'Beg son of a Beg,' their titles being derived from their fathers and
grandfathers : and the women are styled Kniayinia, in the same way. There is
a regulation with regard to the grandees, that none, however superior his
* This passage, \\hich appears to be the description of what I believe is called a geometrical stair
case, presents so many difficulties, that I beg leave to submit it to the revision of the learned.
. : ^*
TRAVELS OF MACARHS. 399
quality may be, shall have the command of more than three hundred men in his
own house ; but when the Kmperor sends one of them on an expedition, he
despatches with him thousands of troops, to the amount that he pleases ; for
the whole direction of the army is in the hand of the Kmperor. Thus it is that
no rebellious subject ever raises his head among them. Observe how admirable
is this order of government ! Thus, when we visited the palace of any of the
Ministers, we saw at his door but very few persons ; and when the Ministers
came daily to wait on the Kmperor, they were followed by two or three servants
at most. They never meet at each other's houses for consultation : every
council is held at the Emperor's palace. Should the Kmperor hear that any
were privately met to deliberate, he would disperse them at the point of the
sword.
In this season of frost and snow, they went out only in large sledges. Their
great pride is in bear-skins, of the white and black bears, which in this country
are numerous, and exceeding large. We used to be astonished at their size,
frequently larger than that of the buffalo. The white bear-skin is very beautiful,
and is used only by the grandees in their sledges ; one half spread behind, the
other under them. The pride of the women in winter consists in sledges, in
which are placed coaches with glass windows, and hangings of scarlet or pink
cloth reaching down to the ground : in the summer-time they drive out in
large coaches, glorying in their white horses, and the number of their domestics
and servants walking before and behind them. Thus, when we went with our
presents to the houses of widows of high rank, we observed the number of their
servants and domestics at their doors, besides their door-keepers and gardeners.
The order of observance with rich widows in this city is, that on the death
of their husbands they dress themselves entirely in black, even to their caps and
handkerchiefs ; and not only so, but their tapestry and cushions are black, and
their coaches are of the same colour, with linings and coverings of black cloth :
even their horses are black. Such is their custom, which the widow maintains
during the rest of her life, never laying aside her black garments, unless she gets
some man to marry her. A woman of the rank of Kniayinia will not, if she can
avoid it, marry any but a Kniazi ; but if no husband of that rank presents him
self, and she marries another, she lays aside her title of Kniayinia: if she has
children by her former marriage, she retains it.
We used to admire the management and conduct of the children, and their
riding on small hor.ses proportionate to their own size ; the number of their
attendants, children like themselves ; their surprising knowledge and intelli-
G G G
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
gence ; their polite salutation of passengers, by taking off their caps ; and the
pretty manner in which they made the sign of the Cross on their faces. It is
usual for such childreii as these, sons of Kniazis, to go every day to the
Emperor's Court, and sit in the same place with their parents, till they are
grown up and take their rank. Such is the result of our remarks, after much
inquiry and investigation.
It should be noted, that few are the poor who go about this city begging ;
for the Emperor has shared them on the grandees in numbers, to receive their
daily food by lists ; and every Arch on supports his troop of them. They have
numerous houses provided for their lodging, and a daily allowance from the
Emperor and Empress ; as have also the prisoners in confinement.
It is likewise worthy of notice, that the grandees of the empire do not reckon
their possessions after the manner of our country, by the number of their farms
and gardens and vineyards ; for indeed, in this country, there are no gardens or
vineyards : they reckon the houses on their estates with their families, and say,
such a Kniazi has three thousand Mojik (My>KiiKb) or peasants, or eight or ten
or twenty thousand ; calculating the value of their lands only by the capacity of
the houses upon them, and their actual inhabitants ; — and God knows what a
number there is in each ! From every man they have a return, year by year, of
two or three piasters, and take a tenth of the sheep, hogs, chickens, ducks,
geese, and such like. The peasants indeed have the appearance of slaves ; for
they sow the ground for their masters, ploughing it with his horses, and carrying
the produce in his wagons to whatever place he directs them, and whithersoever
he is pleased to call them, even to the transport of fire-wood, timber, stones, and
other materials, for the building and service of his mansions, and of every thing
else that he wants. Whenever a grandee is reduced to poverty, or dies, these
peasants are sold to any person who will purchase them with his money. Such
is the tenure of estates here, including also the endowments of churches and
monasteries*.
When the family of an Archon is extinct, and he has left no heir to his pro
perty, it reverts wholly to the Emperor ; for he is the universal heir. Instances
of this were seen during the time of the plague : all the mansions which were
emptied of their inhabitants fell into the possession of the Emperor, together
with every thing in them. Most of the rich, before their death, bequeathed all
' I may not have rightly conjectured the meaning of the Archdeacon's short expression.
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. 401
their property to the Emperor, out of the great love and veneration in which
they hold their sovereign, whom they regard nearly in the same light as they do
the Messiah : according to what was done by that great merchant who gave to
the Emperor,, before he set out upon his late expedition, those valuable posses
sions, comprising a palace which has few to be compared with it in this city ;
and a church, to which, even in the Emperor's palace, there is none equal. We
saw it, and appreciated its beauty ; which is such, that the heart is lightened of
its cares on entering it. As for me, the poor historian of these Memoirs, I have
no power to enumerate its various perfections ; its height, the elevation of its
five cupolas, which are visible on all sides to persons looking in their direction,
from the outside as well as the inside of the city ; the multitude of its paintings
on the exterior, not to mention those in the interior; the glittering of its gilt
windows ; its richly-gilt door ; the multiplicity and varieties of its images, and
representations of what has passed fron the creation of the world until now ; the
beautiful colours of its marble pavement, which he imported from Germany ; its
two incomparable choirs, the most elegant and beautiful ornaments of which,
brought also from Germany, no power of eloquence can describe ; and the
number of its brass chandeliers,, bright as gold. It is not one church, but two
churches : the larger for summer., with a marble floor ; the smaller for winter,
the floor of which is formed of square blocks hewn from the roots of large trees,
and is scarcely to be distinguished in appearance from the marble pavement, that
the feet of persons praying there may not be chilled. The portico of this
edifice, and its bell-tower, for their beautiful and lightsome architecture, surpass
description. A building, indeed, on which, as we were informed, the merchant
expended upwards of fifty-thousand dinars, might be expected to possess such
perfections. God have mercy on its founder, and save him from the torments
of everlasting fire, for the beautiful fruits of piety which he has produced in this
world ! They told us that he paid every year into the imperial treasury one
hundred thousand dinars of duty on the merchandise which he imported from
Europe, Persia, and Siberia. At the times when sables were dearest, there used
to be found in his magazines more than a thousand sorok (jyo)* of the highest
price.
* CopoKb is ' une quarantaine,' or two score.
4-02 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
SECT. VI.
GRANTS OF THE EMPEROR TO FOREIGN ECCLESIASTICS AND TRAVELLERS.
To return : — Some time after we had been received by the Emperor, he sent
to our Lord the Patriarch the presents, as they were all specified in the lists, of
three sorok of the highest-priced sables, and three of an inferior quality ; a large
silver cup ; a piece of purple, another of blue, and another of painted velvet ;
two pieces of purple satin, and the like of damask ; and two hundred roubles,
which were brought by the Grand Secretary and his attendants. For the Archi
mandrite there was a sorok of sables, a piece of damask, and fifteen roubles ; for
the Archdeacon and the Deacon, with the second Priest,, who was the Kha/indar
or Treasurer, and the rest of the clericals, each a sorok of martens, a piece of
damask, and ten roubles ; for the kinsmen, a sorok of martens only ; for the inter
preter, four ells of plain linen, and two roubles ; and for each of the servants,
two couples of sables, worth upwards of four roubles.
The Emperor did our master very great honour in regard to his table ; for
whereas his allowance for it had been fixed at twenty-five copecks daily, he
raised it to one hundred ; that is, to a rouble : whereas the Patriarch of Jeru
salem had no more than fifteen a day.
To each of the Archimandrites, our companions, were given, for their
ipihrifAO, %egwv, a sorok of sables, and twenty roubles, with twelve copecks for
their table; and afterwards they received from the Emperor, as a gratuity for
their monasteries, a sorok of sables worth forty roubles, or fifty, according to
the size of the monastery. If any of them was in possession of a ^yo-o/3oyXXof,
or golden seal, from the Emperor or his ancestors, importing that whoever
brought it every three or six years to Potiblia should be admitted by the
Voivode to repair to the Emperor's presence without advice, that person, upon
having his audience, and kissing the Emperor's hand, received a gratuity for his
convent as fixed in the %gv<ro(3ov*/^oy. Many monasteries, which have an
established name, are greatly beloved by the Russians ; such as is the Convent
of Mount Sinai, which has a •fcguffofiovhXov, which they bring at the end of every
thirty years, and receive their gratuity. Such have also most of the convents
of the Holy Mountain, and many others besides ; as, for instance, the Convent
of the Holy Ascension ; to receive the alms granted to which, the Patriarch of
Jerusalem sends an Archimandrite, a Deacon, and some clericals, every three
years. So also the Patriarch of Alexandria, at certain periods, sends to them
TRAVELS OF MACAR1LS. 40'^
an Archimandrite, with his troop of attendants, to receive for him his gratuity.
Again, whenever a new Patriarch is elected in Constantinople, he sends to them
either one of the Metropolitans ^^^1, or an Archimandrite. For this
reason their names are well known among the Russians ; with the exception of
the Patriarch of Antioch, from whom, for a length of time, nearly one hundred
years, no delegate has made his appearance here ; so that his memory was lost
among them. To the other Patriarchs, at certain periods and on certain occa
sions, they sent gratuities ; but not to him : for he who seeks not, finds not, as it
is said in the Holy Gospel : and thus they looked upon us as great strangers.
To return : — The customary allowance to the Archimandrite clericals is a
sorok of martens, with ten roubles, and five copecks for their table. To ordi
nary foreign Priests, who came from a distant country to ask alms of the
Emperor, they gave, for their (p/Xjj^a %sgwv, a sorok of martens, and five
copecks daily, in the same proportion as to the clericals; and afterwards a gra
tuity of a sorok of sables, worth thirty or forty roubles. This is what they
obtain first and last, as we saw with our own eyes ; for every thing here is
written down in registers kept for ages past, and in nothing is there any altera
tion, nor any diminution or increase. Whenever they are visited by a Patriarch,
or Metropolitan, or an Archimandrite, or by Priests and the poor, they enter
an account of every thing they give them, noting the time ; and when others
come after them, they look at their former register, and are thereby guided : as
we, the disciples of the Antiochian, were allowed precisely what had been granted
to the disciples of the Jerusalemian.
To the poor who came with us, or with those who travelled in our company,
having with them a ^Lai or Letter-patent, addressed to the Emperor from the
Patriarch of Constantinople or Jerusalem, in testimony that they were in debt
to the amount of several thousand dinars on account of their religion, being
Christians, to each were given twenty or five-and-twenty roubles, and no more.
This is what we saw and ascertained ; and God is witness to the truth of what
we assert.
On investigation and inquiry, we found that most of those who come to
Moscow7 in quest of alms, whether Archimandrites or common persons, do not
come in the hope merely of what shall be given to them ; but they bring money,
to make purchases of sables, ermines, and such like, that they may realise a great
profit on their sale in Turkey. It is upon this principle that most of them come.
From the time of their admission at Potiblia, till the moment of their return and
departure thence, they are at no expense whatever. If they have merchandise
KM- TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
with them,, they pay no duties, nor hire of horses ; and they spend nothing for
eating and drinking ; for they have a pension, which they receive every month,
eacli according to his rank : the very poorest has four copecks a day, with as
much beer as he can drink. Thus they ensure to themselves great profits, if
they bring with them a large stock of money or goods. Otherwise, if any person
relies on his expectations from alms, his hope is far distant. God knows that
some do not regain the expenses of their journey !
In regard to the Metropolitans, if he happens to be a Metropolitan of a large
and well-known See, with difficulty will he obtain from the Emperor, first and
last, and from the grandees, altogether a sum of two or three hundred roubles :
it may be less, but never more. This we saw, and were told by several Metro
politans. And know, Brother, that all I have written and enumerated is true
and sincere, without falsehood, as God is witness ; for I refined my thoughts and
purified my intellects, so as accurately and minutely to describe every thing
I saw and heard, in answer to my scrutinising questions, from persons of the
strictest veracity. These pains I have taken, in order that if God is gracious,
and I return to my own country, I may not be under the necessity of repelling
one single question which may be asked me concerning these matters ; but
every thing may be found delineated in this collection, wherein nothing that has
occurred to me has been omitted.
To return : — On the Sunday of the ' Avoxgta, they are accustomed to assemble
in large congregations : in Greek it is called TJJ? devrzgai; Hugova-ictg, or ' Simi
litude of the Day of the Second and terrible Coming :' so they tolled the bells
from the earliest hour of the morning, and three hours afterwards began with the
great bell. The Emperor sent to invite our Lord the Patriarch ; and he went
in the sania to the Sobor, that is, the Great Church : for the meaning of Sobor,
in their language, is n Ka$oA<;^, L^Ul ' the Universal Church :' and we all
robed, together with the two Patriarchs, the Archbishop of Servia, and the rest
of the Archimandrites, who put on their mitres ; the whole of the Priests, and
the numerous Deacons, in their three orders ; that is, the ' Avuyvaarrai or
Readers, the 'Ywodtaxovoi or Sub-deacons, and the 'J&vr&eig or Full Deacons ;
of each order there are ten in number, and each has its chief or leader. The
Anagnostai are children ; but the Sub-deacons have whiskers, and some of them
beards ; for each of the Anagnostai, as he grows up to puberty, passes into the
order of Sub-deacon. They are all in a-n^a^ia or surplices without girdles,
and each is charged with a particular service. One of them always carries the
crosier behind the Patriarch, who is not accustomed here ever to hold it in his
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS,
own hand ; another carries the basin, another the ewer ; one holds the towel,
others attend to the round carpets worked with the figure of an eagle, which
they place under the feet of the Patriarchs, wherever they stand ; others carry
a large silver box, into which they put the Patriarch's crown, whenever he takes
it off; others are to hold the torches ; others to read the Epistles, and throw
incense. The Protodiaconos of the church is constantly employed in holding
the left arm of the Patriarch, the Archdeacon the right ; each supporting it in an
extended posture.
After robing, the Priests and Deacons walked forth in procession, with banners,
crosses, and images, among which was the great city image * ; and we went out
with them from the south door of the church to a large open area behind the
chancel, which the janissaries had spread with yellow sand. Here the Patriarch
of Moscow took his station, together with his Deacons, on a high scaffold, on
which was placed a chair, facing the East ; and he gave his blessing three
times to the assembled multitude.
Immediately after the Patriarchs were robed, the Emperor repaired to the
church, and the singers chaunted the TloXv^oviov, whilst he was paying his
devotions to the images. His head was uncovered, and his crown and sceptre
were carried by one of his attendant Archons. Then approaching the Patriarchs,
he bowed to them ; and they blessed and sprinkled him and his crown with the
'Ay/ao-pK. When he had kissed their hands, they kissed his forehead, ac
cording to custom : and when the Patriarch of Moscow took his station on the
raised frame, spread with carpets to the lowest step, the Emperor occupied a
similar scaffolding, covered with a double fold of sables ; and his officers of state
placed themselves on his right, whilst the multitude formed a large circle
around. Our master stood on the Emperor's right hand, on a carpet set with
a chair and cushion, behind ; the Archbishop of Servia opposite him, on the
other side. Then the superior Clergy came, two and two, and bowed their heads
twice to the Emperor, and to the Patriarch in like manner, as they passed to
their stations. Thus did also the Chiefs of the Convents and all the Priests,
who then took their places on each side, with their banners and crosses in the
centre. In the middle of the whole circle had been placed, by the 'E««A^T/a^^f
and his assistants, three reading-desks ; on one of which w:as the Gospel, on
another the Vlashirnos (^liyiiU) Image, on the third the silver vessels of the
og ; the first of which was a very large vessel in shape like an octagonal
406 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
howl, mounted on a high heel, and resemhling the largest-sized baptismal font,
which two persons carried by the rings with some difficulty. Round it were
cups of various kinds, presenting a complete furniture of silver. Then there was
the water vessel, resembling a large milk-pail, which four persons could hardly
move. Before them they placed large gilt silver candlesticks. In the mean
time the great bells were tolling, until the moment that the Archdeacon
descended from his station,, and, taking the thurible, bowed his head to the Pa
triarch ; then turning to the East, said, with much intonation, " Bogoslovstvi
Vladiko," that is, EyXoy*j<roi' AeWora ; and the Patriarch answered EvXoyjjro?*.
Then they all came out from the tabernacle ; and the Patriarch stood at the
' Apftuv, with the whole body of the Deacons around him, inclosing him
and holding his arms. Our master stood below, on his left hand, on the round
carpet with the eagle (jwj^\ iy'j J^): for, as we before observed, one of the
Deacons was charged with it, to place it under his feet, wherever he should
stand. The rest of the attendants were stationed on each side ; whilst the
Emperor stood before the Patriarch's chair, with his head uncovered., and
with his hand in his bosom, in consequence of the severe cold on that day.
Remark, Brother, what happened now — an occurrence which surprised and
confused our understandings ! It was, that so far were they from being content
with this lengthened service, extending even to the close of the day, that the
Deacons brought to the Patriarch the Book of Lessons, which they opened before
him ; and he began to read the Lesson for this day, on the subject of the Second
Coming ; and not only did he read it, but he preached and expounded the
meanings of the words to the standing and silent assembly, until our spirits were
broken within us during the tedious while — God preserve us and save us !
Afterwards, they concluded the prayers, and, going into the tabernacle, put off
their copes ; then taking their cassocks, they went forth to give their blessing
to the Emperor, and wish him health during the 'A^ro^sa or this time of
abstinence, and he departed.
After we had paid our devotions to the bodies of the Saints in this church,
and to the image of the Mother of God painted by Luke the Evangelist, we
went out. Our master mounted the sania, and we returned to our convent, it
being now late in the evening. Before we had time to sit down to table, what
should we hear, but the bells tolling for vespers ! Now, what can we say of
these duties, severe enough to turn children's hair grey, so strictly observed by
* Here follows a minute description, in thirteen folio pages of the Manuscript, detailing- the whole
of this pompous ceremony : which the Translator omits, as probably of no interest to the reader.
TRAVELS OF MACARTUS. 407
the Emperor., Patriarch, Grandees, Princesses, and Ladies, standing propped on
their legs from morning till evening, during this whole day of 'Avoxgtu ? Who
would believe that they should thus surpass the devout anchorets in the deserts ?
And yet, to the truth of what I have related, God is witness.
SECT. VII.
DEVOTION OF THE EMPEROR.— SOLOFOSKA CONVENT. — HISTORY OF THE
PA TR I A R CH NICON.
ON the morning of the Tuesday rJJ? Ty£>o<payoy, which was the twentieth of
Ishbat, the Emperor sent for our Lord the Patriarch in the sania, to say mass
for him in one of the upper churches of the palace,, dedicated to the Nativity of
Our Lady and St. Catharine, in order to commemorate the birthday of his
eldest daughter, named Eudocia, who was born on the first of Adar, on \vhich
day is the commemoration of St. Eudocia : but as it now fell in the first week
of the Great Lent, he kept it on this day, as they are accustomed to keep it
every year. We went therefore, and, ascending to the church, performed mass
there, in company with the Patriarch of Moscow and the Archbishop of Servia,
before the Emperor and some of his nobles. The Empress and his sisters were
in the porch ; the door of which was closed, that none might intrude upon
them ; and they looked over us from behind their veils and lattices.
This church is very small, of ancient structure, with a gilt cupola. On a
request made by the Patriarch to our master, the latter held an ordination of
Priests and Deacons. As this is the Emperor's private church for the winter,
observe what he now did there. Descending from his seat, he went round, like
a xa.vdqha'ffrns, or candlelighter, to light the tapers before the images, whilst we
were looking on in astonishment. After he had made the tour of the Sacra
ment Cws^X ne approached the two Patriarchs; who gave him the usual bene
diction with the cross ; and then passed to the Empress and her attendants, to
bless them in like manner. At the end of the mass, also, they imparted to them
the 'Am&y^a.
On our departure from the church, the Emperor took the three prelates, by
the hand, to the Empress's palace, to give their blessing to her and her daughters,
to his sisters, and his illustrious son Alexius ; and when they came out, we went
with them to the Patriarch's apartments for a short time, until the Emperor
sent them an invitation to dine with him in the banquetting-room of the former
HH H
408 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
day, where similar proceedings took place as on that occasion : first was a
distribution of bread, then of cups of wine and mead, to all the guests ; next of
plates of meat,, which they sent home to their families. The Emperor did not
forget a single individual. At the end, they stood up, and the Patriarch poured
out the first round of wine to the health of the Emperor,, the second to the
healths of the Empress and her daughter, the Princess Eudocia : the third
round the Emperor presented with his own hand to the health of the Patriarch
of Moscow, and the fourth to that of the Patriarch of Antloch. Then they all
stood while the Hava'yiu, was exalted according to custom, and prayers were
said over the table : and after the Patriarchs had taken leave of the Emperor,
we returned to our convent.
The next day the Emperor, attended by his grandees, went to visit the
monastery r^g 'Ayiag Tgiudog, that is, the celebrated Convent of the Holy
Trinity, with the intention,, he said^ of keeping the 'Anoxia with the Monks.
See what religiousness and virtue were displayed to us by this excellent monarch
also in this !
On the morning of Thursday rijs TvgoQayov, the Patriarch invited our
master, together with the Servian,, to join in celebrating mass in the great church,,
to commemorate the deceased Metropolitans and Patriarchs of Moscow ; as it
is the annual custom of the Patriarch on this day to perform the mass and the
Mvyftoa-vvov, and on the following to give a great banquet in the palace to the
Heads of the convents, the Priests of the seven churches, the Deacons, every
Bishop and Archimandrite who may happen to be within the city, and the
foreign Monks from Greece. We went therefore, in the imperial sania, to the
church. When the Patriarch entered., and had bowed and given his blessing to
the congregation, and the singers had chaunted "A%iov la-riv and the Tlohv%goiitovt
he shook hands with our master, and they went together to pay their devotions
to all the images in the church ; in particular to the body of St. Philip, Metro
politan of Moscow, the worker of miracles, the Confessor, whom this Patriarch,
at the time that he was Metropolitan over the city of Novogorod, brought hither,
by command of the Emperor, from the Monastery of the Saints Sabbatius and
Zosirna, commonly known by the name of the Solovoska Convent, by the
Greeks pronounced Solovka, which is in an island in the midst of the ocean,
called the Sea of Darkness ; for in this mona? _ry the day and night, in the
months of lyar, Haziran, and Tamoz, are one, 4 iat is, all light without darkness,
so that night is not distinguished from day but by a slight obscurity which
prevails for less than an hour : on the other hand, in the winter reigns perpetual
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. 409
darkness, and they live only by lamplight both night and day : so we were told
by this Patriarch from his own mouth, and by many others. The place is more
than two thousand versts distant from Moscow : in winter, during the frost, a
journey of two months ; in the summer,, six. To this monastery are banished
trangressors from among the Greek Priests and Monks ; and thus we obtained
from some of them an account of the living there.
This Patriarch Nicon was, at the commencement of his career, a secular
Priest, who abandoned his wife and became a Friar. Afterwards he was made
'Hyoupzvog, that is, Prior of a Convent, for some time. The Emperor then
appointed him Archimandrite over the Spas Convent, that is, the Convent rw
^vrqgos in Greek, and in our language ^1=^1 "the Saviour." It is dedicated to
the Divine Manifestation, and was built by the father of the present Emperor,
after his ascension to the throne, outside the city walls. It was in the natural
disposition of Nicon to love the Greeks, and their ecclesiastical ordinations and
ceremonies ; and here he remained three years. At the end of that time, the
Emperor promoted him to the bishopric of the city of Novogorod, or the New
City, which is the first Metropolitan See of Muscovy ; for it was to this city that
the Apostle Andrew came and preached ; and it was the first in these countries,
after the citv of Kiov, that believed in the faith : on this account it took the
*/
precedence of all the Metropolitan Sees. We shall hereafter give the history
and description of this city, as by the will of Almighty God it subsequently fell
to our lot to visit it. Immediately after his promotion, Nicon* was sent by the
Emperor to fetch the body of St. Philip, the celebrated Metropolitan of Moscow :
the reason of which was, that this Saint, from the time of his martyrdom and
interment in the aforesaid monastery, had not worked a single miracle until
now, when he performed many. They sent therefore to fetch his body to
Moscow ; as he had appeared several times to the Emperor in his sleep, saying,
" I have been long enough at a distance from the tombs of my brethren, the
Metropolitans : send and fetch my body, and place me with them." Thus
urged, the Emperor sent in company with this metropolitan, Nicon, a great
number of Archons, who brought his body, having been, from the time of their
departure to their return, two whole years on the journey. Just before the
arrival of the Saint happened the death of the Patriarch Joseph, and it was
the unanimous vote of the Assembly of the Clergy to make Nicon Patriarch :
but he strongly refused to accept the dignity, until an order should be esta
blished, that the Emperor should confer no ecclesiastical or sacerdotal offices
* See Buchmeister Leben des Patriarch Nikon, ed. Riga, 1788. p. 34.— EARL OF GUILFORD.
410 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
whatsoever, as the preceding sovereigns had conferred them. Having obtained
his will in this respect, he furthermore procured an imperial decree, that his
sentence should be absolute,, without opposition or appeal : and he had no
sooner been installed in the Patriarchate, than he banished three Protopapas,
with their wives and children, to Siberia : one of them was Protopapas to the
Emperor, and enjoyed such rank and power, in consequence of his office,
that he persecuted the Clergy, imprisoning them and loading them with fetters,
without permission from the Patriarchswho preceded Nicon.
This prelate, immediately on his elevation, entered upon the exercise of un
controlled authority*: every person was filled with dread of him; and he is, up to
the present time, a great tyrantf over the Heads of the Clergy, the Archimandrites,
every order of the priesthood, and even over the men in power and in the offices
of Government. No intercession, either from or for any one, has the slightest
influence with him. It was he who banished the Bishop of Kolomna, and
afterwards consecrated another in his place. Whenever he hears of any one
transgressing, even by a fit of drunkenness, he sends him instantly into banish
ment ; for his janissaries are perpetually going round the city, and whenever
they find any Priest or Monk in a state of intoxication, they carry him to
prison, and consign him to every sort of scorn and contempt. Thus we saw
his prisons full of them, in the most wretched condition, galled with heavy
chains and logs of wood on their necks and legs. It used to be the custom for
the Archons to go in to the Patriarch without consulting the door-keepers :
when their visit was formally announced, he used instantly to come out to
meet them ; and afterwards, on their departure, he accompanied them to the
outer door ; but Nicon keeps them a long time waiting before he sends them
permission to enter ; then they walk into his presence with extreme fear and
awe, and, having transacted their business before him standing, take their de
parture whilst he continues sitting in his place. The love, however, of the
Emperor and Empress for him is beyond expression.
What we have here related of the history of this Patriarch does not properly
suit this place : we shall hereafter, at a suitable time, present a particular
account of every incident of his life and circumstances.
To return : — On the arrival of the body of Saint Philip, the Emperor, the '
Patriarch, the great Officers of State, together with the Heads of the Clergy,
* The text is,
t The Arabic expression J\j»- is literally " a butcher," " a slaughterer/'
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. .[.} 1
all the Heads of Convents, the priesthood, and the whole population of the
city, went out to meet it, with torches, banners, and images, and in their most
splendid robes ; and, as we were told by every one, the Saint performed a
number of miracles, opening the eyes of the blind, raising the sick from their
chairs and couches, and curing the insane, until they carried him into the great
church, and placed him in a coffin of silver and gold, with the greatest honour
and reverence, near the fifth door on the south side of the tabernacle, where
he still performs many miracles. They have, for this reason, appointed him a
Commemoration with the new Saints, a festival and canons, and so forth.
All the world here buys his portrait; and the painters are employed day and
night in making highly-finished copies of it, the goldsmiths in preparing gilt-
silver, and carved ornaments for its appendages ; so that treasures of wealth are
laid out in his name. The women have great faith in him. We used to see
them continually going about the picture market to buy his portrait, and then
proceeding to the goldsmiths' shops to have it inlaid with silver. The expense
on the smallest pictures of him amounts to ten dinars. The Archons and their
ladies load theirs with gold and gems.
To return : — Afterwards, the two Patriarchs turned back, and crossed them
selves before the row of images on the north door of the tabernacle : then
they went into the sacristy, and paid their devotions to the body of Saint Peter,
the first of the Metropolitans of Moscow, whose gilt coffin is placed in the wall
between the two tabernacles. This is the Saint who came from the city of
Kiov, after they had received the faith at the hands of the Emperor Basil the
Macedonian* ; who sent his sister to be married to Vladimir king of Kiov,
after he had baptized him in the River Nieper, him and all his nobles and his
whole country, by the hands of this Saint Peter, who afterwards came to
Moscow, and performed numerous miracles, until they became Christians.
Having taken a blessing at his shrine, the Patriarchs passed on to the north
corner of the church, where they worshipped the body of Saint Ivana ('JyJ),
who was third Metropolitan after him ; for the second after Saint Peter was
Saint Alexius, whose body is in the Chodaby Convent. Then, having next
prayed before all the images around the four pillars of the church, they passed
to the west corner ; where is a handsome recess with a lofty cupola of bright
carved brass, within which is a crystal case containing a garment worn by Our
Lord the Messiah, sent by the Kixilbash, or Persian Shah Abbas, to the
JjAjUJ'i LlXLJ! iJjUwtJ Is it not Basil the Macedonian, Emperor of Constantinople? — EAKL OF
GUILFORD.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
Emperor Michael, father of the present Emperor, after he had made the ac
quisition of it from the country of the Georgians. Suitably to receive it, they
prepared this beautiful place, inside of which is a form or imitation of Our Lord's
sepulchre : over that rests a handsome gilt silver chest, with another box, all
of gold and gems, within it ; and in this is the crystal case, containing the
aforesaid garment*, which we saw afterwards on Good Friday : here lamps and
tapers are burning day and night, The door of this chapel is of bright carved
brass, on the approach of the Patriarchs to which the 'Efypegtos brought out
to them the above-mentioned chest. Having bowed to it and kissed it, they
retired to the sacristy, accompanied by us : for all the Deacons robe before the
Patriarchs come, that, when they enter, they may be ready to support their
arms and attend their procession. Then they bowed before the altar, and
kissed the Gospel and cross, according to the Russian custom ; and the Patri
arch took the cross in his hand. At this moment advanced the Heads of the
Clergy and the Archimandrites without their latias, accompanied by the Priests
and Deacons, and, bowing to the Patriarch, kissed the cross and his hand, till
all had finished : such is their custom, instead of the Kocvvq (^£1) with us and
the Greeks, outside the sacristy. Afterwards the Patriarchs passed to the
Tabernacle of Sacrifice, where they bowed and prayed before the chalice and
plate, as usual ; and the former persons advanced as before, and, kneeling to
the Patriarch, received his blessing : but, subsequently our Lord the Patriarch
annulled this practice, and prohibited the Patriarch of Moscow from entering
the sacristy, and there giving his blessing to the Heads of the Clergy and the
priesthood, with the cross. He was enjoined to conform to our custom, and,
sitting on his throne, to admit them to kiss his hand only. Then they went out
to the Na^^| or Porch, and the Patriarch of Moscow ascended his throne,
which is a very large and lofty form with three steps divided into four parts,
covered with an immense carpet reaching down from the top to the furthest
extremity of the porch. Here his Deacons began to robe him as usual ; not
taking off the mandi/a from his back, lest any one should see him without it,
until they had first clothed him in a HagupKv$v$ (^UU^) studded with pearls ;
and then they put on his surplice. There were two Deacons standing on his
right and left, holding in their hands the requisites for his dress, which they
gracefully handed to him one by one ; and he, having blessed each, crossed his
forehead, and put on the various articles of his attire, as he kissed the cross
^.ujil Kafjucra, chemise. — EARL OF GUILFORD.
TRAVELS OF MACA1UUS. \.\%
upon them. So also they put on him the y,u,x%og, open, and then buttoned it on
the two sides. All his mM-ox have bells and flags, with strings of gold lace
which they tie. Before he puts on his crown, he is accustomed to comb his
hair and beard with an instrument made of hog's bristles. Then they crown
him ; and when he is complete in his attire, and has given his blessing to the
congregation, his Deacons descend, and, having bowed three times towards the
East, go up to him again to receive his blessing. In like manner, after the Hours,
when the Heads of the Clergy, Archimandrites, and Priests leave the sacristy,
they advance two and two before him, and, making a graceful bow to him, pass on
to station themselves in their places. This they all do to the very last; and
from the greatness of their number, they used to reach nearly to the Sanctuary ;
four of the Archimandrites wearing mitres, the rest latias.
SECT. VIII.
ADMISSION TO HOLY ORDERS— COMMEMORATION SERVICE AND BANQUET.
Ox this day there was also an ordination of Priests and Deacons. We found
it was the rule with this Patriarch to perform mass most clays, and that none of
his masses should be said without an ordination of Priests and Deacons, on
account of the great multitude of their flocks, and of the Clergy required to
attend them. We stayed with him more than a year; and at every mass we
used to see him ordaining Priests and Deacons. Nor are these ordinations con
fined to him alone ; but he sends to every prelate residing with him, permission
to ordain in his particular church ; for the 'TVa^/a, or jurisdiction of the
Patriarch, is vastly extensive ; and it would be impossible for him to ordain every
person he wishes, as they apply to him. He sends them, therefore, as we said,
to the other prelates : he even sent them to us afterwards, and we ordained a
a great body of them, as we shall recount in the proper place. To the Arch
bishop of Servia he addressed many : they were all persons who came from
places especially under the Patriarch's charge, bringing with them testimonials
from their relatives and friends, and from the people of the town, that they were
deserving to be admitted to holy orders. We saw great numbers of them who
had come a distance of more than two thousand versts with great hardship and
fatigue. Every chief Priest or Bishop is, as usual, responsible for his laity and
Clergy. The Patriarch of Moscow, when our master said mass with him, was
414 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
always very attentive at the ordination service, seeking, for his own advantage,
to observe which form was best ; and was continually asking him questions on
every point, in order to profit by his information. We shall hereafter make
mention of the defects and irregularities we found amongst them, and of the
great advantages they derived from our master's instructions : every thing he did
for them shall be related in its proper place.
After the Archdeacon had said the Collect "Ero^ey ^ram?, he recited the
Collect which they say for the dead, " Have mercy on us, O God ! £c." Again,
' We pray for the repose of the souls of the servants of God, all the deceased
Metropolitans of Moscow and of the whole country of Russia." This he recited,
according to their custom, in five verses or periods, reading their names from a
register ; and the singers chaunted at each verse, " O Lord, have mercy ! "
Then he concluded, saying, " Of the Lord we ask ; " and they responded, " O
Lord;" and the Patriarch read the Declaration (^M), ' For Thou art the
Resurrection, Thou art rest and consolation to thy servants our brethren, Metro
politans of Moscow," mentioning each by name, as they are accustomed to do
in masses for the dead, for the repose of their souls, by what we afterwards
witnessed. Then the Archdeacon entered the sacristy ; and another came forth
and said, " Pray, O ye admonished! to the Lord*."
To return : — After the mass, they came out from the sacristy, and concluded
the prayers in the usual form. Then the Patriarch ascended his throne, where
he had robed, having our master on his right, the Archbishop of Servia on his
left, and the rest of the attendants, the heads of the Clergy, the Priests, and the
Archimandrites, on each side. The 'E»»>.?jcr/a^jj? had set a reading-desk in
the middle, on which were a silver dish containing boiled meat with honey, and
a cup of wine, as a M.vrjfAo<rvvov, to commemorate the whole of the deceased
Metropolitans and Patriarchs of Moscow. Then the Deacons began to bring
forward triple-twined torches of wax to the Patriarch, who distributed them
to the attendants : the Archdeacon took the thurible, saying, "' EyXoyjju'oi'
Ag<T7rorct ; " the Patriarch, " EvXoyrtrog ; " and the Archdeacon recited the great
" "Svvctvrtj" in which he mentioned, instead of the name of the Patriarch or of
the Emperor, the names of the defunct : we know not whence this Collect of
theirs was taken. Afterwards the Anagnostee began to throw incense in bene
diction of the defunct, whilst the singers chaunted, until the completion of that
* LJ JJ ^jlsj^ycJl lyjj IjLj. This form of exhortation is similar to that in Virgil : " Discite
justitiam moniti, et non temnere Divos." ./ENEID, B. vi. ver. 620.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
ceremony*. At the first Ka^^a, I entered and said, " Have mercy on us, O
God! &c." with the thurible in my hand. This collect is of five verses, at each
of which the singers chaunted Kugtz "EX&rt<rov. After it I said, Tu KVPIV
fyirovpiv, and they the Response,, " O Lord !" and our master said the Prayer,
" O God of our souls and of our bodies ! &c." in a low voice, according to their
custom. Then he pronounced aloud the Declaration, " For Thou art the
resurrection and the life ; Thou art rest and consolation to thy servants, our
brethren the Metropolitans of Moscow, O Christ our God ! £c." After the
Declaration, the Patriarch descended, to throw incense round the reading-desk,
sacristy, table, and altar ; and turned to do the same to the Ka^g^a and the
images. Then lie came forth to incense the royal door, and the whole range of
images on the right and left ; and afterwards approached and incensed the image
which was over the head of our master ; then him, and the whole line of his
attendants ; then the singers. Thus also he did to the Servian, and those with
him. Afterwards he went round to incense the images in the body of the
church, one by one ; the Emperor's chair, the Empress's, and the whole con
gregation. The Archdeacon, carrying in his hand a taper, preceded him
wherever he went, until he came and stood in his place ; and two Deacons sup
ported his arms till he had finished, after incensing the royal door a second
time, then the desk all round, and our master ; on which he ascended to his
throne, with the censer in his hand. Then all the Deacons went below to
stand in a row before him, and he incensed them as they bowed their heads :
he incensed the two choirs of singers in like manner, as they bowed to him ;
then the Anagnostye, and the Archdeacon, to whom he delivered the censer.
On that, he bowed three times towards the east, and gave his blessing to
the two choirs. Then the Archdeacon incensed him, and delivered the censer
to me : and I threw incense first on the Patriarch of Moscow, and then on
our master, to whom I delivered the censer, taking the taper from his hand
to carry before him ; and he went round to throw incense in the same
manner as the other had done, and returned to his place. The like cere
mony was then performed by the Archbishop of Servia. After the singers
had finished chaunting the Benediction (*allo the incense-thrower bean to
throw it on the Kavuv, at the end of each portion as it was read, and was
then responded to by the chaunt of the choirs f.
t "The pompous ceremonies of the Russian Church, the gorgeous apparel of the priests with their
black and shining beards, the various positions in which different people are seen kneeling and bowing
T T T before
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
At last the Patriarch descended from his throne to conclude the service, and
recited the names of the defunct, one by one, from a register ; and they channted
for them " Everlasting remembrance and perennial mourning : " after which the
prelates entered the sacristy, to take off their robes ; and leaving the church., we
passed with the Patriarch to his apartments, where the banquet was arranged.
In the middle of the room, according to their custom, stood a table laid with
gilt silver cups large and small, and round it were the Sotniks in attendance.
For the Patriarch of Moscow they set a table by itself, at the head of the hall ;
another was placed near it for our master ; another for the Servian ; and four for
the heads of the Clergy, the Archimandrites, and ourselves. For the rest of the
company, tables were set round the apartment. Then they prayed over the
table, and brought forward the Tlawyia, in a beautiful gilt silver vase. When
the prayers had been recited over it, we partook of it, and then sat down.
Immediately one of the Anagnostai1 disposed his reading-desk in the centre of the
room, and began to read from a large book in a loud voice, and continued his
lecture from the beginning till the end of the repast. The Patriarch's crosier
was held by another standing near him : the crosiers of our master and the
Servian were erected in front of them. Then the Patriarch drank three cups of
wine together, and made our master and us drink in like manner, before we
had eaten a morsel. The Sotniks, in their elegant dresses, were standing to wait
on us quickly ; some to serve the bread, some the dishes of meat, and some for
the wine and other services. For every round there was a different shape of
cup, and a different quality of beverage.
The first thing distributed by the Patriarch to all the guests were the usual
long loaves. As the servants took them from him, they cried aloud, saying,
" O such an one !" if he was a Bishop, naming him by his See ; if an Archi
mandrite, by his Convent. Thus the servant named us, saying, " This is from
the mercy of the Patriarch Nicon to you." The guests, advancing from their
tables, bowed down to him to the ground in thanks. The first meat they set
upon the table was black and red caviare. Removing it, they brought various
kinds of fish and viands ; not setting together one sort with another, but first
carrying away the presented dish, and then replacing it with a different one,
before the favourite Saints, in attitudes little less remarkable than the exhibitions of Mussulmans ; in
short, the whole system of parade that characterizes their service very much exceeds that of the Roman
Catholics. The choirs are extremely fine : they admit of no musical instruments ; human voices only
are allowed ; and nothing can be more strikingly grand than the singing of the priests."
ALCOCK'S Travels in Russia, Persia, Turkey, and Greece.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. 417
according to the order and service of the imperial banquets. Tims he gave to
his guests, one after another., from amongst the boasted dishes ; and to our
Lord the Patriarch first, before all. Each guest sent his present by his servant
to his own house, as a blessing : this is their usual practice. In the mean time,
whenever the 'AvayvuffTqc became tired of reading, the singers came forward and
chaunted : the Patriarch called upon us also to sing in Greek and Arabic.
In this way the banquet lasted until the evening.
SECT. IX.
ACCOUNT OF THE DOG-FACED TRIBE.
AFTERWARDS it pleased Nicon to entertain our Lord the Patriarch with a full
account of the following affair. The Emperor had sent to summon a party of
the tribe of Saint Christophorus the Martyr, who are subjects of his empire, and
are called Lobani*. In Turkish they are called ^*xjjl ^bo, in Greek "Ar/ow
avfywroi, in Arabic £j&»-j Jb^ ^jJol. They eat human flesh, together with their
dead : their tract of country is along the shore of the Ocean or main sea, which
is the Sea of Darkness, one hundred and fifty vcrsts northward of the port of
Archangel, and to the east of Moscow one thousand six hundred and fifty f.
There were come of them on the present occasion, to the assistance of the Em
peror, more than seventeen thousand: it wras even said, thirty thousand. This
people in former times had been rebellious against Alexander, as we were told
by them through the mediation of their interpreters ; for they have a language'
peculiar to themselves, and are attended by dragomans who know both theirs
and the Russian. They have no houses, nor are they at all acquainted with
the use of bread, never eating it, but feeding entirely on raw fish, the carrion
beasts of the desert, and dogs, without cooking, in their savage fashion. No
* AO&uiH "having a large forehead." — EARL OF GUILFORD.
t " The extent of the dominion of the Emperor of Russia is greater than that of the Roman Empire in
its most flourishing days, and contains about fifty-three millions of inhabitants. The army is the prin
cipal profession ; and although some trouble has been taken to form a correct estimate of its strength,
it is impossible to pretend to great accuracy ; the difficulty being in the incomplete state of the regiments,
which frequently are not effective beyond half of what is considered the due complement : as a round
number, however, including Cossacks and every species of military, the best authorities suppose it to
exceed a million, although perhaps not more than seven hundred thousand receive pay ; and the expense
of maintaining it is calculated at about seven millions sterling."
ALCOCK'S Travels in Russia, Persia, Turkey, and Greece, p. 49.
418 TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
horses are to be met with in their country : they have only the wild animal,
called, in Greek, gXa<po$, which is the JjJ or deer, and is very common and
abundant among them. This they employ in various services, particularly in
drawing their wagons : its flesh they eat, and with its skin they are clothed-
From year to year they have to contribute to the Emperor's treasury a certain
number of these skins, which are like parchment, and are in great request by
the Muscovites. From the further bank of the Danube to the extremity of the
north, deer (Jj.^0 are found in great abundance, particularly in the province of
Wallachia. They hunt and eat them, as the deer has the hoof cloven. But the
Muscovites strictly abstain from eating them, out of respect, as they think, to
the Holy Ghost.
These savages have no houses, but range about the mountains and forests ;
and wherever they arrive in the evening, there they stop. Snow and frost
never cease in their country ; for this reason their faces, as well as the rest
of their bodies, are extremely white. The pelisse, which covers them from the
crown of the head to the sole of the foot, they never change during their whole
lives, unless, on its wearing out, they have to make themselves another. It
consists of the skins of the said deer (Jj^)!), which resemble the camel's skin,
with the same kind of hair. They sew them together in couples, so as to have
the short fur both inside and out; and make trousers for their legs, and a
covering folding over their heads, all comprised in one vest. This dress suffices
them against the cold. Their worship, as they told us, is adoration to the
heavens. Their provisions, which are the flesh of wild beasts, they carry
between their clothes, behind their backs. As to their appearance, in shape
and figure, it is frightful to the beholder ; and when we looked on them, God
preserve us ! we shuddered with horror. They are all short, all of a size, and
amidst the whole of them not one can be distinguished from another. All are
hump-backed, with short necks, and heads close between their shoulders. Their
faces are perfectly smooth, without beard ; nor is the male to be known from
the female, but by the secret parts ; for the severity of the cold in their country
hinders the growth of hair. When they marched in a body, you could hardly
distinguish them from a herd of bears or other brute beasts, and it was sur
prising to see them. Their faces are as round as a well, and very large, with
broad low foreheads, flat noses, and long, small, inverted, fissured (Byi^U L^iiU)
eyes. For this reason the beholder shudders at them. It was impossible for us
to assume boldness enough to make acquaintance with them ; for humanity is
far removed from them, and they are perfectly wild. The Greeks therefore call
TRAVELS OF MACAIUUS. \ \$
them 2*yXo?c£<paAo;, that is (c_>>Kil s^) " dog-faced." The old men among them
cannot be discerned from the young.
The servants in the Convent of St. Cyrillus, of Bielozarsko, in the apart
ments of which we were now residing, told us that the convent has a con
siderable revenue from their dependants among this tribe, paid wholly in deer
skins, as they have nothing else, and are not acquainted with bread, nor ever
eat it*.
To return : — -Whilst we were yet sitting at table, the Patriarch Nicon sent
for the chiefs of this party, that is, their commanders of thousands, about thirty
persons in number ; and they came to speak with him through their interpreters.
As soon as they entered, the whole assembly was struck with horror. They
instantly bared their heads, by rolling back their caps ; and bowed to the Patriarch
with great veneration, crouching to the ground, all in a lump, like pigs. He
then began to ask them how they were, how they lived, and in what manner
they had lately travelled in coming to Moscow. They told him of all, as we
have just related ; and that they had come from their country on foot, with deer
to draw their wagons. He inquired with what arms they fought : they replied,
"With bows and arrows f." He said to them: " Is it really true, that you eat the
flesh of men ?" They laughed, and answered : " We eat our dead, and we eat
dogs ; how then should we not eat men ?" He said : " How do you eat men ?"
They replied : " When we have conquered a man, we just cut away his nose,
* An interesting piece of natural history is here given of this wild tribe, which the Translator thinks
will be more modestly presented to the curious reader under the veil of the Latin language : —
Certiores iios fecerunt de re, qua?, utpote foeda memoratu, in mentionem nobis minime adducenda
esset, ni necessaria foret ad admirationem excitandam turn lectoris turn auditoris ; ea nempe, quod hujus
gentis perpauci sint viri, quorum semen bonum reperiatur ; membra enim genitalia virorum abdita
intusque delapsa, ipsorumque ideo mulieres multas esse in amore Muscovitarum, qui proximi commo-
rantur. Si unus horum, fertur, hominum solus redierit in casam, quo inter silvas diversus tuerit,
ibique otfenderit Muscovitam cum muliere sua concumbentem, multa laetitifi gaudet, eaque perfusus et
incitatus exit properans ad venationem cervorum, quos Muscovite largiatur in gratiam pulchritudinis
beneficii in se ab eo collati, qui gravidam suam fecerit mulierem. Quantum enim nobis memorarunt,
nonnisi paucorum inter hos agrestes valet ad generationem semen : at optime scit Deus Creator.
t " The Khalmucks have the same form of visage as the Chinese, but more fierce and savage.
These are dispersed tribes of those Mungholians whom the Chinese long since received as their con
querors. They are armed with bows and arrows, and feed on the flesh of horses, camels, dromedaries,
and other animals ; and eat the entrails of them, even when the beast dies of the foulest distemper.
They throw their dead into open fields, to be devoured by dogs ; of which many run wild, and some are
kept for this purpose. They worship images, which generally consist of a small bit of wood about a
palm in length : the upper part of it, being rounded, is adorned with some rude marks to resemble
human features : the figure being thus prepared, is dressed up with a few rags." — HANWAY s 7 ravels.
Vol. I. p. 100.
4-2() TRAVELS OF MACARIUS.
and then carve him into pieces and eat him." He said: "I have a man here, who
deserves death : I will send for him, and present him to you, that you may eat
him." Hereupon they began earnestly to entreat, saying : " Good Lord, when
ever you have any men deserving death, do not trouble yourself about their
guiltiness nor with their punishment ; but give them to us to eat, and you will
do us a great kindness.''
When the Metropolitan Mira came to Moscow, it happened, in consequence
of his many odious deformities and those of his servants and companions, that
his Archimandrites, with his pretended relatives and Deacons, were found smoking
tobacco ; and they were all instantly sent into banishment. He himself only
was liberated, by the intercession of the Patriarch Patalaron ; and was brought
by the Deacons, afterwards, to a monastery near the capital. The Patriarch,
however, was still in a great rage against him ; for no crime with him is ever
forgiven : and now sent to have him brought to these savages, that they might
devour him ; but he was not to be found, having hid himself.
Afterwards he asked them what their usual food was : they answered, " Raw
fish is what we usually eat." Then he gave them from his table a dish of
excellent fish, and bread to eat with it : and they bowed to him, begging to be
excused, and entreated him, saying, " Our stomach will not admit of cooked
meats, to which we are wholly unaccustomed ; but give us, if you please, some
raw fish." Upon his ordering it to be given them, a large fish, called shtoka*
ft^ki) was brought to them, frozen as hard as a board : for, as we mentioned
formerly, the fish here remains frozen the whole of the winter season, from the
moment it is taken out of the river. This was thrown before them : and when
they saw it, they were much delighted, and returned many thanks. Then the
Patriarch commanded them to be seated, and they sat down ; and the chief
among them came forward, and asked for a U^^ or " knife." Then taking
the fish, he made an incision round its head, and pulled off its skin, with such
dexterity, from top to bottom, that we were in amazement at his handiwork.
Afterwards he set about opening it, in the manner we have seen pigs opened
(U^kfljJlO ; anc* cutting it into slices, threw them at his companions, who greedily
snatched them, and ate them with more delight than human creatures eat the
most delicious morsels of princely sweetmeats. When they had devoured the
whole fish, skin, bowels, head and all, without throwing away a single particle,
they asked for another ; which they used in the same way, snatching it from
each other's hands with the most greedy contention. The smell of their belches
* UlVKa, " a pike." — EARL OF GUILFORD.
TRAVELS OF MACARIUS. \2\
now began to spread about the room; and our breath was almost taken away by
the horrible stench arising from them, and their skinny clothes, in which they
wiped their hands. We were pleased, however, that we had seen this strange
sight; which we might not have hoped for, as these people come in a troop, only
at intervals of many years, to attend the Emperor ; but now, to our great good
luck, the whole tribe nearly was come for us to look at. We observed that they
did not venture to walk in the town in small numbers, but always kept together
in large parties, for fear of any injury from the Muscovites ; and, secondly, we
remarked that they were not suffered to lodge either within the city or in tin-
suburbs, but only in the fields remote from the public paths, lest they should
hunt the men and eat them.
These circumstances, in relation to the Dog-faced tribe, we witnessed and
beheld with our own eyes.
KM) OF PART IV. AND VOL. I.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY R. WATTS, CROWN COURT, TEMPLE BAR.
1833.
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