Travels through the Balearic and Pithiusian Islands, performed between the years 1801 and 1805

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

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TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

BALEARIC AND P1TH1USIAN

ISLANDS,

PERFORMED BETWEEN THE YEARS 1801 AND 1806.

By A.G. DE ST. SAUVEUR, Jcn.

CONSUL OF TRANCE AT THE BALEARIC ISLES, AUTHOR

OF PICTURESQUE TRAVELS THROUGH THE

VENETIAN ISLES, &C. &C.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, AND EMBELLISHED WITH
ENGRAVINGS.

LONDON:

printed for RICHARD PHILLIPS, no. 6, bridoe-street,

BLACKFRIARS,

By /. G. Barnard, 57, Snow-Hill.

1808.

-

,

1^ f

ADVEimSElENT.

J.T has been justly remarked that Modern Travellers
are addicted to describing such countries as have
been newly discovered, while they neglect those which
gave them birth. When America was discovered,
and afterwards the islands in the Pacific Ocean, all
travellers were indifferent to every other part of the
world.

To give a complete description of an extensive
country is an undertaking beyond the competency
of one individual ; for besides the variety of know-
ledge which he ought to possess, he should also have
the means of travelling, of residing for a length of
time in particular places, and rewarding the natives,
whose services he will require on various occasions.

Convinced of this evident principle, that the
knowledge of the geography of a kingdom can only
be acquired by general encouragement and liberal
assistance, Philip II, of Spain, transmitted in 1575,
orders and instructions to all the prelates and go-
vernors of the different provinces in his kingdom,
directing them to draw up memoranda of every
thing worthy of notice, in their respective districts.
This task, however, was only executed in part, as its
completion was prevented by political events.

The Balearic and Pithiusian islands, therefore like
most of the other provinces of Spain, had their histo-
rians and local geographers; but the writers being na-
tives of the parts which they have described, so far
from giving true accounts, have embellished them
with all those wonderful additions which the ima-
gination and partiality engender,

A 2

Doo

VI ADVERTISEMENT.

With respect to the Pithiusian isles, there is no
work extant in which they are described with in-
terest; their history beimg founded entirely upon
what has bean written relative to the Balearics. In
my Account, however, I have omitted no opportunity
to gain the most accurate information as to their
present state; and the following work may there-
fore be considered as the result of all the materials
I have been able to collect, during a research of six
years in the respective places. Indeed, I may ven-
ture to offer it as the most exact and ample
description which can be procured of the coasts,
and the interior of the islands in question ; and I
have, in particular, inserted every thing that re-
lates to the character, manners, customs, industry,
commerce, costume, and language of the inha-
bitants.

I have also devoted a chapter to the antiquities
which have been found, or still exist on the different
islands ; and I conclude the whole with an historical
sketch. The Balearics have made only a secondary
figure in the events which compose the history of the
others ; nevertheless, the facts which I have collect-
ed, are by no means unworthy of attention.

TRAVELS

THROUGH THE

BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS.

CHAP. i.

SITUATION OF THE BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS

ORIGIN OF THEIR NAMES EXTENT FIGURE

COASTS, AND ANCHORAGE OF THE ISLANDS OF MA-
JORCA AND CADRERIA — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND
OF MAJORCA.

UNDER the name of the Baleares, or Balearic Isles, arc
comprised the isles of Majorca, Minorca, and Cabreria ;
they are situated in that part of the Mediterranean formerly
called the Iberian sea, because it washed the shores of Spain,
the ancient Iberia, and afterwards Balearic, from the names of
these two islands. In the time of the Greeks, they were called
the Gymnesias : the name of the Baleares was given them by
the Romans. According to the best writers of antiquity, Poly-
bius, Strabo, and Pliny, these two denominations had their
origin from the particular manners of the inhabitants of these
islands in times past. The name Gymnesias expresses the cus-
tom of the first inhabitants of going naked ; and that of Baleares
is derived from their singular skill in the use of the sling. They
are now known by the names of Majorca and Minorca.

Cabreria is a small island dependant on, and very near to
Majorca: it has its name from the custom of the Majorcans
keeping their flocks of goats to pasture at this place,

By the name of Pithiuses are distinguished the three islands
of Ivica, Formcntera, and Conejera, situated in that part of
the Mediterranean called the Gulf of Valencia. They were
known to the Greeks and Romans by this denomination ; which
by some is thought to be derived from the great number ©f pine
trees with vvhiph they abound ; and by others, from a kind of
pottery formerly made by the inhabitants, which was one of
the chief articles of commerce with strangers. The vases of

6 ST. SAUVEUR'S TRAVELS.

this pottery were said to have the extraordinary virtue of not
receiving or imbibing any kind of poison. Majorca, the most
considerable of the Baleares, describes a square, the projecting
points of which are the capes Pera, to the east ; Grosses, to
the west ; Fromentor, to the north ; and the Salines, or salt-
pits, to the south. The circumference is about 143 miles, 54
east and vest in length, and 42 north and south in breadth.
It is 28 miles from the roadstead of Palma to the Bay of Al-
cadia.

The island of Majorca is distant 26 miles W. S. W. from the
nearest point of land of Minorca, 45 E. N. E. from lvica, 90
Si. S. E. from Barcelona ; 135 N. N. W. from theCape Tenis,
in Africa. The latitude of this island is 39° 57' 15"; the longi-
tude 9° 40" E. from the Royal Marine Observatory at Cadiz.
On approaching the shore, and keeping to the east of the
isle of M ajorca, we soon discover Cape Blanc : going coast-
ways to the South we see that of the Salines, where there is good
anchorage, sheltered from the winds, which blow from the
land. Continuing the same course, we find a smalt road, called
Cale-Figuieres ; it can only receive vessels of small burthen.
Pursuing our course along the coast, we come to die port Pera;
it is half a mile wide at the mouth, and runs about two miles
into the land. A few gallies, or at the most, six or seven ships,
that draw but little water, can anchor here in good ground.

We next come to another small harbour, called Colomb,
where there is anchorage only for small craft ; it runs in shore
near a mile and a half. The village is about two miles from
the port.

Between the cape of the Salines and the isle of Cabreria there
are many shoals, and several little islands. Fishermen general)}
resort here, as there is plenty of fish.

Cape Pera is the last of the island of Majorca ! to the east,
going thence north, we find the bay of Alcudia, where the an-
chorage is sheltered by Cape Ferrouil. W. N. W, of the bay,
about two miles distant, is the town of Alcudia.

Continuing a course to the N. after doubling the cape of
Alcudia, we make the port of Polenza, which was called by
the ancients Partus Minor, to distinguish it from that of Alcu-
dia, which they called Portus Major. There is good anchorage
in this port for ships of almost any burthen, wher« they are
sheltered from every wind, and protected by a tower tolerably
well fortified. This tower is situated half way up the harbour,
where there are also several windmills. There is plenty of fresh
water to the South of the tower.

The village of Pollenza is two miles from the sea shore, and

ISLE OF DRA-GONIERES. 7

is situated behind a mountain. Pollenza and Alcudia are the
two best anchorages of the island of Majorca. At the entrance
of the roadstead of Pollenza, there is, on the right, a little
island near the land; at the mouth, the soundings are from 27,
23, 20, and 17 fathoms ; diminishing gradually. At the time
of the expedition against Mahon, under the command of the
Marechal de Richelieu, the squadron and the Spanish convoy
were at anchor in the bay of Alcudia, at the same time that the

j port of Pollenza was occupied by the English. To the west of
Pollenza is the coast of Soller, which is dangerous, as it con-

r sists of lofty barren mountains, and has no good anchorage ; it
is necessary to go large from the land in this place, as
a shoal runs out ten miles distant, where the soundings are ten
fathoms ; the sea breaking over it is very dangerous, and else-
where denotes other shallows which are not known ; therefore
great care is necessary, in bad weather, to go very large from
this dangerous shore, which affords no other shelter than the
little port of Soller ; only fit for small trading vessels which
draw but little water. The mouth of this harbour is narrow,
and difficult to enter. A battery of four pieces of camion de-
fends the entrance. It is here that the small craft of the
island take in their cargoes of oranges for France, and some
few for Spain.

The isle of the Dragonieres is situated in the latitude 30° 40".
It has two towers for its defence, where the signals to the ships
are displayed. There is a passage to Friou, between the Dra-
gonieres and the island of Majorca ; but it requires great caution
in the navigation, as there are, near the middle, rocks which
are almost level with the water, and some of which appear
above it. Towards the South is a small port, called Andraig ; the
entrance is so narrow that it is hazardous for ships to go in.
The anchorage is in seven and eight fathoms, and a muddy bottom.
Pursuing the same route, you make the Cape Fromentor,
where begins the road of Majorca to the westward. Having
doubled the Cape, you enter the roadstead : it is extensive,
and there is goocr anchorage ; but open to the south-west,
which occasions a great deal of sea. The Point of Saint
Charles is seen protected by a castle of the same name,
which is square, and was built by the Emperor Charles the
Fifth. The Port aux Pins is an harbour where vessels of a
certain burthen, and even frigates are moored by cables made fast
on shore. The ships are protected from every wind ; and the
entrance was formerly shut by means of a chain. This port can
only contain a small number of vessels ; the mouth is defended
by a battery situated on the point next the town, upon which, in

8 ST. SAtVEURS TRAVELS.

front, is the light-house, which serves to direct mariners in the
night, and to make signals to the ships observed in the offing.

About half way from Port aux Pins to the town, is situated
the castle of Belver, on a hill. It was built by King Don
Jayme II. It is of an oval form, and rather large. On the
side next the town is first seen a large round tower, which, at a
distance, appears detached from the castle : state prisoners are
confined here. This fort, guarded by about fifty infantry, is
under the command of a lieutenant colonel, retired from active
service.

A little distance from Belver, on the brow of another hill,
which descends to the sea, is built the Lazaretto. It was con-
structed in 1656, and is divided into several wards, where they
air and purify the merchandize. Two of these compartments,
situated at the bottom of the hill, on the sea shore, are abso-
lutely of no use in rainy seasons ; the flowing of the water inun-
dates them entirely. The passengers have no other lodging than
some little rooms in the upper pa> t of the building. This laze-
retto, by the few conveniences, or rather by the many incon-
veniences found there, is not very well suited for the purpose of
its establishment. Its vicinity to the town, and to a much fre-
quented road, would be dangerous in case the persons or effects
being kept there, should be infected with the plague. -These ob-
servations gave birth to the design of building a new pest-house
on the island of Cabreria ; the situation could not be better ; but
the distance, and the passage by sea, present risks and expences
too bui thensome to commerce : the project was therefore given
up, and the interest of the merchant prevailed against the con-
sideration of the public health.

The port of Palma is small, and can only admit vessels which
draw but little wut.r ; they moor in the north part, at the
mole.

The cente or in" island of Cabreria is at the distance of ten
miles N. E. I N. from the cape of Salines of Majorca ; its lati-
tude is 39° 7 30", and the longitude 9° 1 6' 2(r E. from the
Observatory of Cadiz. This island is of some elevation, and is
three miles in length S. W. and N. E. and two mi'es and three
quarters E. and VV. in breadth ; the shore is clean, and the
bottom is, generally speaking, sea-weed. Not far from the
coast there are some small islands, which are seen at the same
time with Cabreria.

Almost in the middle of that side of the island which
looks to the south, there arc four small islands, which they
call Estellens. The two highest are very near, and almost
touch Cabreria ; and the two others are farther from the first,

DIRECTIONS FOR MARINERS* 9

about a cable's length and a half to the south. The coast of
these islands is clean, and vessels of any burthen may pass
through the straight they form.

At the south-east of Cabreria is another small island called
Imperial, higher than the others, but situated so near the coast,
that it is with difficulty even boats can pass.

About one third of a mile to the north of Cape Ventosa,
which is the farthest N. E. from Cabreria, is the island Re-
donda, larger than the Imperial. Vessels of all descriptions can
pass between Redonda and Ventosa ; the depth is ten or twelve
fathoms.

In the passage from Isle Imperial to Cape Ventosa, is seeri
Bleda, a little low island, almost touching the other shore.
Between Bleda and Cape Ventosa, the coast forms a large
creek, in which, in the northern part, is a road called Olla, and
to the south another called Bori : they only serVe for the fishing-
boats.

To the N. 35Q W. of Cape Ventosa, distant about a rhile^
and two miles and one third to the N. 67° 5 E. of Cape Le-
Veche, is the S. W. extremity of the island of Conejera, the
highest and most considerable of all those in the neighbourhood
of Cabreria.

Conejera is about a mile in length from N. N. E. to S. S.W.
There is a passage through the straight formed by Cabreria and
the Isle Redonda. The soundings are ten and twelve fathoms.

At the N. N. E. extremity of Conejera there are four little
islands close together ; three are called the Planes, dnd the
fourth Furadada, which is the highest. The straight which
these islands form is deep, but so narrow, that nothing but
boats can pass through.

The island Furadada, and the Cape Salines of Majorca, are
five miles and a half distant from each other, N. E. 3° N. and
S. W. 3tt S. In the middle of this passage the soundings are
20 and 25 fathoms ; the depth decreases near the two shores to
10 fathoms.

In these straights we frequently meet strong currents, which
follow the direction of the winds that prevail.

The port of Cabreria is a little distant to the S. S. E. of
Cape Leveche. This cape is a land-mark. There is seen, at
the entrance of the port, a cavern, called Obispo, which you
leave to the starboard; and, to larboard, the Point of Creveta,
which is the eastermost, and forms the port. Within this point
is observed the castle of Cabreria, situated on a mountain. The
entrance of the port is about a cable's length iu breadth ; and

ST. SAUVEUR.] B

,10 ( st. sauveur's travels.

thorc are every where from 20 to 0.5 fathoms ; so that the largest
ships may outer.

Having doubled the point of Creveta, several fishermen's huts
appear ; opposite to which there is anchorage in eight and ten
fathoms. Vessels may be moored on the eastern side, and ride
safely with two anchors. The port is large, and the shores
which inclose it are level- The north wind blows into the
harbour.

Having the wind to the north-west, blowing fresh, to go into
the port of Cabreria, care must be taken to keep the Cape
Leveche to the N. W. since, from that Cape to the anchor-
age, the squalls from the mountains are sometimes so strong,
that they carry away the masts of a vessel. The same attention
must be paid vviUi the wind at east.

At a little distance, on the east of the point Creveta, there
is a large cieek, called the road of Gandus : the bottom is good,
but this road is open to the "north and north-east. It often hap-
pens that, owing to voyagers not having a perfect knowledge
of the coast, they confound this creek with Port Cabreria.
To avoid the mistake the Cape Leveche must be made, and then
the coast pursued to the anchorage.

At a mile and three quarters to the S. 15° W. of the Cape
Leveche, and that of Picamoscas and near to the middle of the
coast of that Cape, there is a little creek called Galeota. Be-
tween the Cape Picamoscas and that of Ansiola, which is the
most southern of the Island, is another creek which has an
island at its entrance. These two creeks are only frequented by
fishermen, who come hither to fish when the wind is at east.

The island of Cabreria is nearly uncultivated. Some islanders
with the garrison of the castle, which is from ten to twelve men
in time of peace, and from forty to fifty in time of war, compose
the whole population. The Majorcans keep at pasture in
Cabreria flocks of goats. This island supplies a small quantity
of iire wood.

THE ISLAND OF MAJORCA.

The island of Majorca is very hilly, particularly in that part
which is opposite to Catalonia. The N. E. part is separated
from the S. \V. by a chain of lofty mountains. Its population
is divided into fifty-two inhabited places, two cities, thirty vil-
lages, and the rest small hamlets ; the quality of the soil is excel-
lent, and its productions with the exception of corn, sufficient
for the consumption of the islanders.

Leaving Palma, the capital of the isle, and going to the E.
keeping along the sea coast, the first village of any note that we
come to is Llnch the greater, situated on a pleasant plain,
famous for the battle in which king Don Jayme the third

BUILDINGS IN MAJORCA. M

lost his life and crown. This village was built by king Don
Jayme the second in the year 1300 ; the number of its in-
habitants amounts to near 3500.

Corn and figs are the principal productions of this canton ; it
also maintains a considerable number of cattle. The streets and
houses of Lluch the greater, are tolerably regular.

The principal church is that belonging to the Convent of
Saint Francis ; the architecture is simple, and in other respect*
it has nothing remarkable. Near this village is a mountain
called La Randa. On the summit is a college with a chapel,
where about titty young children are instructed in the first rudi-
ments of learning, at the expence of the university of Palma.
From the top of La Randa, is beheld the most delightful pros-
pect ; on one side is a grand view of the sea, and on the other
the country, which presents a cheerful landscape. The moun-
tain La Randa has obtained a celebrity from the retreat of
Raymond-Lulle, chief of the sect of the Lullists, who was as
famous for his enthusiasms/ and the delirium and extravagance
of his propositions, as illustrious for his virtues. This philosopher,
surnamed the illuminated doctor, was born in the isle of
Majorca, in 1236; he applied with indefatigable perseverance
to the study of the philosophy of the Arabians, to chemistry,
physic, ruid theology, and at length went to pie.ich the
gospel in Africa, and was stoned to death in Mauritania,
on the 2pth of March, 1315. He is esteemed a martyr among
the people at Majorca, where his body was conveyed, and de-
posited. His absurd doctrines have still a number of followers
in the university of Palma.

About a league and a half from this city is a pond called
le Prat : the unwholesome exhalations of this collection of
stagnant water, are very prejudicial to the cultivators of the lands
in the vicinity. This pond might be easily drained by conduct-
ing the waters to the sea, which is very nigh.

Two leagues to the S. E. is the village of Campos ; it is not so
considerable as Lluch the greater; it was also founded in the
thirteenth century. The lands are divided into corn fields and
meadows. The wealth of the inhabitants, the number of whom
is at most four or five thousand, consists chiefly of corn and
cattle. Campos is not far from the royal salts pits, which are
situated on the sea shore. They do not obtain from these pits
the quantity, which a more extensive operation would certainly
procure.

A league to the N. of Campos there is a mineral spring,
called Saint John's Fountain, which is a specific for the itch and
other cutaueous distempers. Probably virtues of greater extent

b 2

IS ST. sauveur's travels.

might be discovered, if these waters were analysed. M.Bleau
in his " Atlas general" speaks highly of this spring.

Continuing in the road to the N. we come to a large plain well
cultivated, and very fertile in com, and which might with pro-
priety be called the granary of the island of Majorca. This ex-
tent of land is occupied by the villages of Porreras, Algaida,
Montuiri, Villa-Franca, San Juan, and Petra. The population
in this canton may be about 11 or 12000 souls.

The inhabitants obtain from hence wines, brandies and
olive oil for their consumption, but corn is their chief wealth.
The gardens produce abundance of roots and culinary vegetables
of every kind. They gather yearly a large quantity of figs, which
they dry. Their flocks are sufficient for the purposes of manuring
the land as well as for the consumption of the country.

At Petra is a paper-mill, but the munufacture is of a very
ordinary quality.

Continuing our way along the sea-shore a little more to 'the
E. of the Cape des Salines, (Salt Pits), we come to the village
Santagni; his well built with stone of an excellent quality,
which is found in the neighbourhood. Santagni was often
forsaken by its inhabitants, at the times when the Barbary corsairs*
made incursions into the interior of the lands. The parish
church is remarkable for is size, but the architecture is heavy
and in bad style. The population of Santagni amounts to 5000
souls. The lands in this part of the island are very fertile, and
produce much wheat and barley. In the vicinity of Santagni,
are a great number of tombs, which are said to be of the times,
when the Romans were in possession of Majorca. I wished to be
convinced of the truth of this assertion, but could not find any
inscription to remove my doubts on the subject. Tradition
alone says that these sepulchres belonged to the Romans.

To the north of Santagni, about three leagues distant, is the
village Felanix, which is one of the largest and best built in the
island; it contains 5 or 6000 inhabitants ; they grow plenty of
corn and have a sufficient number of cattle ; but their chief
wealth is derived from their brandies. Felanix is the canton which
furnishes the most in quantity, and the best in quality of this li-
quor ; the exportation of which is one of the most advantageous
branches of commerce in Majorca. The monks of St. Augustine
have here a handsome convent. Half a league from this village
there is a small hill, on the top of which is a chapel where the
islanders pay their devotions to an image of Christ, which,
has given the name of San-Salvador to this mountain ; near the
chapel is a kind of inn, for the accommodation of the pilgrims,
whose devotion leads them to the place. There is a convenient

CHARACTER OF THE MAJORCANS. 13

ascent cut in the rock to the summit of the hill. The Majorcans
preserve with particular care those small chapels, which are
built on the summit of almost every mountain in the island.

Four leagues N. £ N. E. from Felanix is Manacor, a village
situated in a fertile plain ; most part of the land belongs to the
noblesse of Majorca, who here pass the summer. Manacor u
one of the largest villages in the island ; the population is esti-
mated at the number of 7000 ; the inhabitants are rich in corn,
wines, vegetables, figs, and herds of cattle. The monks of St.
Dominic have a small convent at Manacor. They shew in the
parish church an old picture of the crucifixion, and praise highly
the painting. I could not judge of its merits, because the chapel
is very dark. I remarked the same want of light in almost all
the churches of Majorca.

To the E. is the little village Sangervera ; it is very near
the sea.

To the north of Sanservera, is Arta, which is built on a
rough and hilly situation. This village is one of the largest and
handsomest of the island ; contains about 8000 people ; the in-
habitants keep numerous flocks and herds of cattle ; the chief
produce is oil and vegetables ; they also grow cotton, which
they have in perfection. This canton abounds with game of
every kind. In the environs of Arta are some grottos and
caverns, which might agreeably employ the naturalist in philoso-
phical researches.

Arta is surrounded by country houses, where the nobles of
the island pass the summer. The stranger is received with a
frankness and good nature, rare even among those people, who
boast most of their hospitality, and who fancy they possess a
superior degree of civilization. There is a mountain that com-
mands a prospect of the whole village, and from which may be
seen the sea, in five different directions : on the top of this moun-
tain is a small hermitage, taken care of by a devout old woman;
.she shewed us an antique statue of the Holy Virgin, of which she
related some prodigious miracles; the walls bore many testimonies
of its efficacy, and of the gratitude of the islanders, who had
been restored to health by their faith in the powers of this image.
J went over the ruins of an old castle, which formerly belonged to
the Moors; a part of which had served to form the hermitage
I had just quitted. There only remained a walled enclosure, and
somesubterraneousapartments, the entrances of which are almost
choaked up with heaps of stones. From thence I went to a
convent of Franciscan monks. I was attended by one of them,
who, like the old woman at the hermitage, related miracles per-
formed by every statue of a saint, with which the church was

34 st. sauveur's TRAVELS.

ornamented. The library was the last thing he shewed, and at
my request, and on this occasion he told truth, for he assured
me that I should rind nothing curious ; in fact there was only a
heap of old Spanish books, bound in parchment. 1 opened seve-
ral of them ; they were ou theological subjects. Just as 1 was
leaving this library, my conductor stopped me, and made me
observe about half a dozen helmets and some armour, which
were placed on the upper shelves ; the distance and the darkness
of the place, prevented me from forming a judgment of them ;
and desirous to make some interesting discovery, I entertained
hopes that they might be remains of armour, which formerly had
belonged to the ancestors of the Major cans. The monk cor-
rected my error, by telling me that what 1 had observed with so
much attention was the work of his own hands, and made
use of to dress some children on the days of procession. These
helmets, bucklers, and cuirasses, in fact were nothing but paste-
board covered with paper, which by dust and time had acquired
tlie appearance of age, that caused my mistake.

A short distance to the east of Arta, is the castle of Pera,
built oil the top of a small mountain, about the third of a league
from Cape Pera ; it is only an enclosure of walls with battle-
ments, furnished with three or four pieces of artillery. This
miserable castle overlooks some poor habitations built on the
declivity of the mountain.

Leaving the mountainous lands of Arta we reach a large plain,
which extends as far as the shore of the bay of Alcudia : in this
plain, and a little distance from the sea, are the villages Saint-
Marguerite, Muro, Peubla, and Campanet; the number of
people inhabiting this canton, is about 10,000 ; corn, honey,
hemp, oil, carroubs, with the flocks and herds of large and small
cattle, compose the wealth of the inhabitants. The gardens also
produce great quantities of fruits and vegetables. The melons
and citrons of Peubla, are remarkable for their size and quality.
In the neighbourhood of Muro, is a quarry of excellent stones
for building; as there is also in the environs of Pelanix. ^icar
St. Marguerite are found a number of tombs, which are said to
be as ancient as the time of the Romans.

I remarked a particular taste in the construction of the public
edifices and churches of these village ; the largest and iipest
of which is that of Peubla.

A little to the S. VV. of Campanet, is Selva Inca, Beninsalem,
and Sansellas; these villages are in the most fertile part of the
island. The inhabitants amount to about 1 1,000 persons; they
are in general in good circumstances; they have a considerable
quantity of corn, wine, oil, carroubs, almonds, and fruits oi* every

VILLAGES IN MAJORCA. ']j5

Iviiid, with some silk : they keep flocks and herds of cattle, which
are sufficient for their consumption, and the labours of hus-
bandry.

The situation of Selva is very pleasant, surrounded by hills
covered with trees ; this village presents a perspective as cheer-
ful as varied : water is found in abundance, and contributes much
to the fertility of the country.

They assert that [nca was founded in the time of the Romans ;
and ruins are found in the vicinity, which leave no doubt of its
antiquity.

Sansellas is also said to be one of the parts of the island
which was first inhabited : the situation of this village is not less
picturesque than that of Selva.

The canton of Beninsalem is one of the richest of the island
in wines ; the quality of which is in much esteem. The village is
also well built and handsome ; the houses are convenient, and
kept with great neatness. In the neighbourhood of Beninsalem
there is a quarry of red marble, with which the inhabitants have
beautified their church. This edifice is one of the finest in the
island.

It is but a short distance from Sansellas to Sineu : this village
existed in the time of the Romans. Under the kings of Majorca,
it was one of the most flourishing in the island. These priitces
had at this place a castle,where they resided several months in the
year. The population of Sineu does not exceed 4000 personal;
the produce consists of corn, wine, and vegetables ; the inha-
bitants have also some flocks, but they are not very numerous.

Sainte-Marie is a small village not far from Sineu ; it has but
£000 inhabitants. The lands produce a smali quantity of corn,
fr«it, almonds, and wine ; but the oils are the principal article.

In the road to Alcudia, from St. Marie, we pass very near
a large morass, called the Abufera, situated near the sea shore.
This pond, the property of a noble of Palma, is the chief
wealth of the canton: it abounds with aquatic fowl, and in
its waters they catch a considerable quantity of fish, particularly
eels, of an enormous size. Unfortunately these advantages
do not make amends for the unwholesome exhalations which
infect the air, and occasion distempers very difficult to cure.

This part of the island is deserted, and great part of the
land uncultivated. The Abufera is thought to be the chief
cause of the. depopulation of the town of Alcudia, which is in
its vicinity. I do not think the draining of this pond would be
attended with any great difficulty, or require any very consi-
derable expenditure : th« waters might easily be made to pass
into the *ea ; and, once dried up, this place might be used for

16 st. sauvf.ur's travels.

the purposes of agriculture, and its extent is large enough to
compensate by its produce the loss of the fishery. At any
rate, it would be very easy to lessen the malignity of the waters
of this morass, by clearing away the iilth. The weeds, which
stagnate, addea to the bad quality of the mud and slime, occa-
sion unwholesome qualities.

At the distance of something more than two miles from the
Abufera, on the side of a hill, is the town of Alcudia, between
two large bays, which can receive ships of any burthen. Al-
cudia is said to be the part of the island which was first in-
habited : the situation of this town, at two miles from the
sea, may be considered as a proof of this assertion. In those
early ages, the art of fortification was but little known ; they
only had an enclosure of walls, flanked with a few towers.
Their chief strength was in the situation ; thus they prefered
mountainous places, and such as Avere difficult of access from
the sea ; they therefore settled some distance from the shore.
These precautious were sufficient protection from a coup-de-
maht. Alcudia has always acted a principal part in the events
which compose the history of Majorca. This city has for a
long time disputed with Palma the title of the capital of the
the island. Alcudia was in the reign of Jayme the Second, in
1500, in a very flourishing state : in 1523, the emperor Charles
the Fifth rewarded its citizxns for their zeal by the title of Most
Faithful. Alcudia at present appears to be only a poor place,
with most of the houses falling into ruins. The ancient
wall yet remains, but would not be any defence. This city is
the residence of a invalid colonel, who has the government
of it ; the garrison consists of about thirty foot soldiers ; a
piquet of cavalry does the ordinary duty ; conveys the reports to
the captain general, and the orders he sends in answer.

There is not any spring of water in the neighbourhood of
Alcudia ; and the inhabitants, whose number is now reduced
to about 800, are supplied only from cisterns. The culture of
the lands is in a languishing state, and the produce is confined
to a little com, with some fruits and vegetables. The sheep
produce a very fine wool.

There is, on the declivity of a small hill, towards the isthmus
which divides the two bays, a chapel dedicated to Our Lady
of the Victory. Near this place, from the top of a steep rock,
one may see the prospect of all the eastern coast of the island
of Minorca, and most part of Majorca ; on this rock is a signal
tower. A little lower, and almost on the sea shore, is another
pointed rock ; on the summit is a piece of artillery : this rock is
of a curious shape : it is called la Eoxa.

BUILDINGS AT POLLENZA; 17

Leaving this territory, which is equally barren and urtwhole*
some, and going to the VV. N.W. we are made amends by the
sight of the village Pollenza : it is situated a short league from
the sea, in a plain sheltered to the north by lofty hills ; the soil
is fruitful and well watered. The foundation of Pollenza is
dated as far back as the time of the Romans : this village, which
is the largest and one of the handsomest in the island, contains
near 6000 inhabitants. It produces chiefly oils and wool : the
wine of Polenza, called Montona, is in great esteem. The
houses, though not grand, have every requisite convenience, and
denote the opulence of the people who inhabit them. The
parish church is built in a good stile of architecture, although
simple. The Dominicans have here a tolerably handsome con-
vent. The most remarkable edifice is the church, which was
built by the Jesuits two years before their expulsion ; it is thought
to be one of the handsomest in the the island ; the convent has
hot been finished. It would make a college for the education of
youth. There is also at Pollenza, a military hospital for the
troops which are stationed in this part of the island. Near the
village is a little solitary eminence, on the top of which is a
chapel dedicated to the Holy Virgin ; there was also a convent
of nuns, which has been demolished. In the southern part
are the ruins of an old castle, called the Castle of Pollenza. If
curiosity lead any stranger thither, he must expect to endure
the tedious recital of the prodigies of valour performed by the
Majorcans in defending this fort against the Moors.

Following the chain of mountains which protects the island
from the winds of the north, we descend into a valley where
there is a large collegiate church, called Lluch. Pope Alexan-
der granted to its chapter the title of Canons of St. Peter. The
ecclesiastics, and the other inhabitants of this collegiate, are
reckoned at about 400 persons. Its wealth consists of oils and
flocks. The hills which surround the valley are covered with
trees, and have many good springs of water. The church, con-
secrated to Notre-Dame de Lluch, is very handsome. 1 ob-
served some very beautiful marble pillars, which support the
roof ; the interior is lined with black marble, and adorned with
ornaments of jasper, which the island produces. There is at
Lluch an image of the Holy Virgin, which is held in great vene-
ration, and which they assure us was found in 1238, on the
spot where the church is built. This image, like many others,
has the gift of working miracles. It attracts many devotees, who
never fail to bring the customary offerings.

Passing over the mountains which surround the valley of
Notre-Dame de Lluch, and going to the south, we see the
ST. SAUVEUR-] <S

18 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVELS.

villages Alaro and Saint- Martial ; but they contain nothing
that can interest the curiosity of the traveller. The population
of Alaro may be about 2400 persons ; its produce consists of
oil, caroub?, and silk, and it maintains some flocks of small
cattle : there are here several springs, which serve to put in
motion the mills adjacent. Saint-Martial is only a hamlet, in-
habited by about 500 people ; the produce is various, and con-
sists of oil, grain, almonds, wine, and figs ; they have also some
flocks and herds, and there is a manufactory of earthen ware.

To the north of Saint-Martial is Bugnola, a village founded
as far back as the epoch of the conquest of the island by king
Jayme the First : it may contain about '2600 persons. A few
flocks of sheep, caroubs, but above all the oil, compose the
riches of this place ; there is also some wood proper for
building.

When travellers arrive as far as the foot of the mountains of
Tlufabia, it is customary to stop at a house, which, according
to the tradition of the country, stands on the spot where was
formerly a pleasure seat that belonged to the Moorish kings.
The gardener is very attentive to travellers, shewing them every
thing worthy observation, particularly the different fountains
which play in various fanciful representations. TKe Majorcans
are fond of these bagatelles. What surprised me most, is the
vraot of taste of the proprietor of this spot, winch by its situa-
tion, and the springs of water which abound there, might be
easily made a most delightful residence.

We have to pass over some very lofty mountains in our way
from Eufabia to Soler ; we go this road with mules ; but the
road is wide, and the declivity not being very steep, might be
easily made proper for carriages. This short road is exceedingly
delightful ; the various prospects seen from the mountains charm
the eye in every direction. On our descent we enter the valley
of Soler. It is three leagues and a half in circumference, and
forms a kind of bason, surrounded by mountains, which are
covered with clumps of olive trees.

The whole plain is planted with orange and lemon trees, and
watered by numerous rivulets, which unite together in one
stream near the village, which it crosses, and ruus into the sea
at the port of Palm. The valley of Soler, seen from tli« top
of the mountains, presents the spectacle of a forest of trees al-
ways green. The fecundity of the soil in this part of the island,
is astonishing ; the smallest garden produces an abundance that
is almost incredible. The inhabitants amount to about 6000 in
number ; their wealth consists of oil, caroubs, and silk ; but
above all, a prodigious quantity of oranges and lemons of a very

MONASTERY OF CHARTREUX. 19

superior quality : these last are the most considerable articles of
the commerce of the Majorcans with Languedoc and Roussil-
lon, which now make the departments of Herault and the
eastern Pyrenees. The village of Soler is well built, and is
one of the handsomest in the island ; but, nevertheless, it has
nothing particularly worthy of attention. The first subject with
which the Majorcans entertain a stranger on his arrival, is the
valley of Soler ; of which they speak with so much pleasure,
and with such particular emphasis, that it rouses the curiosity
of the traveller, who is pressed to go and enjoy the wonders of
which he has just heard the description, and certainly this place
has every beauty that art, added to the bounties of nature, ^an
present ; in short, the whole valley consists of the most <n«
chanting gardens. We return, after having admired the richness
of the soil, and the delightful scenery, with considerable regr<t,
that the inhabitants have not better profited by its luxuriances.

Two leagues distant from Soler to the N. J N. E. is the vil-
lage Valdemusa, situated on the declivity of a hill : this little
mountain joins to several others, which surround a deep valley in
the shape of a tunnel ; all these hills are covered with fruit trees,
from which is derived the principal wealth of the inhabitants.

Valdemusa is ill built ; the streets are very inconvenient, from
their extreme declivity, and the badness of the pavement, which
is composed of rough flints.

The population of this village amounts to above 1200. Be-
sides a considerable quantity of fruit and vegetables, the lands
produce a small quantity of oil, some caroubs, and some silk ;
they have also some flocks of sheep and goats. Valdemusa is
celebrated for being the birth-place of the fortunate Catharine
Tomasa, who is remembered with such veueration throughout
the island.

To the north of this village, is a convent of Chartreux. I
visited this monastery, which contains about fifty monks ; it is
very large: the handsomest part is the new cloister, but tbjere is
only one side of it finished. Each monk has a small apartment,
consisting of three parts, and a garden, which he cultivates for
his amusement. Every necessary of food and raiment is found
in this convent : the lands which surround it produce com, wine,
oil, fruit, and vegetables ; and, in the interior, they manufacture
the stuffs with which the monks are clothed. This monastery
(like all those of the same order) is very rich : the monks are
very charitable to the poor families in Valdemusa. Strangers
may stay in this Chartreux three days, where they are, lodged
and treated with much attention. There is, near the body of
the house, vvhich is inhabited by the monks, a building, where-

c 2

20 ST. sautiur's travels.

in are kept all the comforts and conveniences necessary to hos*
pitajity.

About a league from Valdemusa, among the mountains, are
several small chapels, the duty of which is done by hermits, who
live separately and retired in huts, which they build themselves.
These recluse men live on alms; they are frequently visited by
the devotees of the island, by whom they are greatly respected.
This place is called the Hermitage of Sainte-Marie, and the
recluse exercise a kind of jurisdiction over all other hermits in
the different parts of the island ; they are clothed almost like
the Capuchins ; and are said to live very austerely.

Going along the north coast to the west, we come to the vil-
lage Bagnafura, which is situated on a mountain, of which the
part that looks to the sea forms a very steep declivity to the
beach. From the summit to the foot this mountain is cut in
stairs ; each of the steps are supported by little walls made of
dry stones. It is planted all over with vines, which, from the
sea, have a beautiful appearance. At the time of the vintage,
this mountain, covered with the peasantry of both sexes, presents
a most animated picture, The population of Bagnabufar does
not exceed 5 or 600 persons ; the inhabitants are mostly in good
circumstances, and live in great comfort : they have plenty of
oil and fruit ; but their chief wealth consists of wines of dif-
ferent qualities, which are much esteemed in the island. The
mountains abound with springs of water, used by the peasants
to wash and bleach their linen.

A little more to the west is a hamlet called Estellens. Turn*
Ing from thence to the S. S. W. at the distance of about three
leagues, is Andraig, a well-built village, containing about 4000
people. The inhabitants practise navigation, and thus make up
for the poverty of their canton, which only produces oil. This
is the most infertile part of the island. Andraig is not much
more than a league distant from the sea shore. The harbour is
only proper for small craft : it is very safe, and runs in shore
near two miles. The road from the village to the port is tire-
some, uneven, and full of loose stones.

Among the northern mountains, about four or five leagues
from Palma, is the source of a kind of river, called la Kierra ;
it is almost dry during great part of the year ; but in the rainy
season it becomes very full, and extremely rapid, and often does
considerable damage. La Kierra empties itself -kito the sea,
nuder the ramparts of the city of Palma. In the year 1403, the
water increasen so rapidly, that J 600 houses were carried away,
and 5.500 people were drowned, fn 1408, its ravages were
^renewed. The years 1444, 1618, and 1635, were also marked.

POPULATION OF MAJORCA. 21

by similar disasters ; the waters overflowed and in undated all
the country, and even in the city, they rose to the height of four
feet, running into the sea, by the mole of the port.

Not far from the source of this river, is a village called
Puigpugnent ; it is situated in a large valley, covered with olive
and other fruit trees. The produce of this orchard, joined to
that of some flocks of cattle, and a small quantity of silk, make
the wealth of the inhabitants, whose numbers maybe about
1200. The houses of Puigpugnent are separate, and situated a
good space one from the other.

A short distance from this village on the road to Palma, is
another, called Calvia ; the number of inhabitants is from 12 to
1300 ; the situation is hilly, and fruitful in oil, grain, and ca-
roubs. The people of this canton are chiefly shepherds, and
the flocks make their principal revenue. Calvia is near the
small port of Paqura, where the king don Jayme the conqueror,
landed in the year 1229. Don i\lphonso, and don Pedro,
also made choice of this place to land their troops.

Near to Calvia, on the sea shore is Deya, a village of little
note, containing about 500 inhabitants, who like those of Cal-
via, employ themselves in feeding their flocks and swine ; these
animals rove at liberty in the underwoods which covers the can-
ton. They have likewise some small quantity of oil.

The roads in the interior of the island are in a bad state, from
not being kept in repair ; this negligence is a sensible prejudice
to the progress of agriculture, and to the activity of commerce,
every article to be conveyed to the sea shore, must be carried on
the back of a mule, or on carts of a clumsy workmanship, and
which can travel but slowly.

The whole population of Majorca, amounts to about
136,000 inhabitants. Palma, the capital, contains 33,000. Of
these, 136,000, they reckon 52,000 women, and 27,000 chil-
dren ; of the 33,000 inhabitants of the capital, 14,000 are
women, and 5,108 children ; deducting from the total of the
population of the island, the women and children, there re-
mains 57,000 inhabitants. In this calculation the aged and
infirm are not reckoned, the number of whom is said to be
14,250; 42,750, is the number of those of age and strength
sufficient for the culture of the lands, the navigation and defence
of the island. This number of effective men, is still reduced
by the ecclesiastics, who amount to 2,035, 1002 of whom
are monks. Thus Majorca, has but 40,695 men capable of
labour. From the number of 52,000 women, must be deducted
1,204, of whom 600 are nuns, and of course devoted to celi-
bacy ; and 604 also devoted to celibacy, but voluntarily dedi-

gg ST. SACVEUBS TRAVELS.

eating themselves to an honourable and useful service in the dif-
ferent charitable establishments.

Might there not be added to the number of these women who
do not encrease the population, those who giving way to their
passions, are at once lost to society by idleness, which is always
dangerous, and by that sterility, which is a consequence, or ra-
ther punishment of debauchery. In a climate such as Majorca,
and under a government where the sex is almost authorized in
its deviations, by an indulgence carried much too far, to what
number would the calculation amount ? The mind refuses to
enter into such humiliating and painful investigations. For my
part, I had rather turn my thoughts to those happier times, when
Majorca was not yet subjected to a licentious depravity, so fatal
to population, and to the good of society. The Majorcans have
not always been incapable of conquering their passions, or of re-
sisting the power of avarice. It is in the city, the abode of
the greatest number of foreigners, that this shameful liber-
tinism, mostly prevails. In the country in general, the females are
virtuous, modest, and of pure morals.

CHAPTER II.

CLIMATE — QUALITIES OF THE SOIL — CULTURE AND THE
PRODUCTIONS OF THE LANDS.

X HE climate of Majorca is temperate, and the mountains
which surround the island, protect it from the north winds ;
nevertheless they are some time visited by one of these, which
descending from the mountains occasions a cold atmosphere in
the plain, and at times does considerable damage ; tearing up
by the roots, and carrying away great part of the olive trees,
with which the hills are covered. In the summer the sea
breezes allay the extreme heat. The climate of Majorca va-
ries with the different situations. In the month of August the
inhabitant of the mountain feels not the inconvenience of the
excessive heat of other regions ; the islander who lives on
the eastern borders, on the contrary experiences but little of
the cold during the winter. The intermediate valleys do not
owe their temperature to the coolness of the streams, for there
are none in the island, but to the vicinity of the monntains, the
chain of which extends to the East, the North and to the W«st,.

NATURAL STATE OF MAJORCA. 23

and even stretches into the interior of the lands. Some of these
mountains are very lofty : such as those of Pug-major, and Ga-
latzo, on whose summits the air is often pure and serene, when
at the same time the rest of the island is covered with clouds.
The air passing through the kind of canals which are formed by
these mountains, becomes rarified, and is cooled by the light
winds, which carry it to the inhabitants of the valleys. The
natural productions of the island are perfect thermometers, that
tell the qualities of the climate, and which never deceive ; let
us extend our observations over the whole island of Majorca, we
shall see it adorned with woods of odoriferous orange trees, the
fruits of which are every where esteemed, and are not inferior to
those of Malta and Portugal, and which have obtained it the
title of the golden island. Here the eye beholds lofy palm-
trees : there the caroub tree, which bids defiance to the severity
of the winter, and presents from the beginning of August, a
fruit ripened to perfection. Towards the end of June, the vine
is loaded with clustres of grapes of exquisite sweetness and
flavor ; the finest cotton is here produced, as also the plan-
tain, that wonderful production of nature, whose fruit feeds the
poor Indian, whose bark furnishes him with domestic utensils,
both convenient and elegant, with the leaves of which he co-
vers his humble habitation, and which protects him from the heat
of the sun. The plantain, which is found in many gardens at
Palma, is the same described by Salmon in his History of the
World, written in Italian, and Father Gumilla's History of Groo-
noka.

It is true the Majorcans do not possess the fruit of the plan-
tain, bHt this tree growing naturally in the island, is no small
proof of the excellence of the climate. It is from the tempe-
rature of the Baleares, that Strabo named them the fortunate
islands.

In the northern part of the island of Majorca, the whole of
the coast is lined with high and inaccessible rocks. To the East
and South it spreads into plains, and has numerous ports and an-
chorages. Thus the island may be divided into two parts : the
plains and the mountains. On the last, the soil is of a reddish
Colour, and mixed with stones, nevertheless it is very fertile.
All these mountains are covered with treej from the top to the
bottom ; some of them are proper for building. The wild
olive-trees are very hardy and numerous ; the islander profits as
much as he can by this bounty of nature ; he grafts, cultivates,
and indeed uses all carS and attention,, to preserve these va-
luable trees. To prevent their being torn up by the roots, and
carried away by the torrents, which at times precipitate from the

24 St; SAUVEUR's TRAVELS.

mountains, lie protects each tree with a little wall of dry stone,
which supports the lands and leaves the water a free course ;
all these little ramparts have a passage between them for the pur-
pose, sufficiently wide ; we may reckon more than thirty of
these walls, one above another, forming a kind of amphi-
theatre, which has a very pretty effect, and gives at the same
time an idea of the labour, industry and patience of the cul-
tivator.

In the chain of mountains of Majorca, may be distinguished
those of Torelfa and Galatzo, entirely covered with trees,
chiefly olives and green oaks ; among these last are some of an
astonishing size; there are also many others fit for carpen-
ter's work, and firs which serve for the building of small
vessels.

At the time of the last expedition of the Spaniards against
Algiers, they had from hence, wood, to build thirty seven
bombs and armed vessels.

The soil of the plains is not so fertile as that of the moun-
tains ; in many places it is vc/y much sunk, so that in the times
of abundant rains, the water lays on the ground till the seed pe-
rishes ; even in favourable seasons the crops are always weak in
these cantons of the island, but many parts of the plain seem
to be very proper for m«adows, or grazing lands. There is here
found in abundance a kind of jonquil, of which the laige cattle
are very fond, and particularly the horses ; there are also great
quantities of angelica and wild celery ; these two plants so
much sought after, and which produce so much in other places,
were here, a few years back, of no value, the islanders neglected
or did not know the means of making their cultivation an ad-
vantage ; a Frenchman has profited by their carelessness or igno-
rance.

The island is watered only by the springs which comes from
the midst of the mountains; but at those seasons when the snow
melts which covered the summits of the mountains, and when
the rains are heavy and of long duration, these streams run
down in torrents, attended with danger, more than equal to the
utility.

Majorca has many deep holes in the earth, dry pits hollowed
by nature, which assisting the explosion of the inflammable air,
contribute to prevent earthquakes ; in fact there is here no re-
membrance of any such event.

Within these few years, there has been discovered in several
places, a vein of pit-coal ; some individuals united in the inten-
tion of undertaking the work. But the labour presented such a
prospect of expence, greatly above the means of the society, that

STONE QUARRIES AT MAJORCA. 25

it was given up ; in fact it could never succeed without the as-
sistance and protection of the government.

It has been said by some, that veins have been found, indica-
tive of mines of gold and silver, and that minium, or red lead
of a superior quality, had been discovered, as also mercury.
These reports, however, are not believed, and the number of the
islanders who appear to give them any credit, is confined to a
few old men, who are fond of wonderful stories.

I was also assured, that in the mountains of Majorca, there were
found granite, garnets, agate, jasper, and porphyry ; but I saw
none of them, and I believe these discoveries may be ranked
with those of the gold and silver mines.

I saw at the convent of the capuchins, a very large window,
the only one which there was in the chuir, composed of panes of
a kind of transparent stone, which the friars told me was
brought from Bagnabufar ; but I know that it came from
Valencia.

At Andraig, Puigpugnent, Bagnabufar, and Bugnola, is
found marble, 'hat is speckled with red and white.

At Alaro is extracted a kind of marble, which they call
amandrado, from the form of the shades, which resemble al-
monds ; it is black and white. Although it is common j it is
much valued.

The islanders make use of these marbles in the decoration of
the churches, and the gates of the houses belonging to the
rich.

Beninsalem furnishes flat square stones, with which the
churches and houses are paved.

From Bagnabufar, is brought free stone ; from Arta and Ma-
nacor, mill stones ; at Estellences is often found stones with a
very sharp edge.

The sandy stone which is used for building, is common at
IJuch-Major, and at Santaqui ; it is proper for fortifications,
as it is not liable to crack. It is of this that the ramparts at
Palma are built.

In many parts of the island slate is found, but the islanders
make no use of it.

At Arta and Estellenchs, are some grottos, where the va-
riety of the stalactites amuse and interest the observer with the
sportiveness of nature.

Fire-stone is very common in the island of Majorca, and al-
most every where there is plenty of a sort of white lime, or
plaster, which is much in esteem.

In general the stony part of the mountains is composed of
ST. SAUVEUR.] D

2(5 ST. sauveur's travels.

mixed stones, formed of chalky, vitrifiable, and refractory
purts.

In the vicinity of Campos, are situated some salt-pits, which
they do not make so profitable as they might.

If they were attended to with more care, and some money
were expended in the work, they would not only be sufficient for
the consumption in the island, but that there would be a consi-
derable overplus for exportation.

There is no doubt but that the island of Majorca presents a
large field for the researches of the botanist. It affords sim-
ples, and plants of every kind ; and probably there might be dis-
covered among them some new ones, or such as are scarce in
other places, or at least but little known. I distinguished the
Hypericon Balearicum, a kind of myrtle, of which the islanders
make but little use. The socotorine aloe of Majorca is much
esteemed, and the angelica and hemlock are much finer than in
any other place.

As for the mineral waters, I only saw one spring, near Cam-
pos, it is called the fountain of St. Johu ; the water appears to
me to be strongly impregnated with sulphur; it is warm, and
the inhabitants use it for curing cutaneous distempers.

There are very few venomous reptiles in the island of Ma-
jorca.

There is nothing particular in the birds and quadrupeds, nor
did I observe any thing remarkable in the different kinds offish.
The island of Majorca, is, without contradiction, one of those
most favoured by nature, being so advantageously situated be-
tween Europe and Africa, the temperature of the climate, and
the quality of the soil, insure to the inhabitants the blessings of
abundance ; nevertheless agriculture is far from that degree of
perfection, attained to in other countries. One is at first struck
with their imperfect manner of culture, but the astonishment
ceases, on calculating the population and extent of the surface of
the island, and on observing the manner in which the lands are
divided and managed. I have followed the husbandman in his
labours with an attentive eye, and observed his customs and
prejudices.

In an account given to the supreme council ©f finances at
Madrid, the suiface of the island of Majorca is estimated to
be 1234 square miles. The whole population \~ but 136,000
souls, nevertheless the produce of corn is insufficient, and the re is
some imported, at least iO.OOO fanques every year. The fan-
que is a Spanish measure, containing twenty-five pounds, of
sixteen ounces to the pound.

This deficiency in the article of corn, far from diminishing,

AGRICULTURE OP THE M.A JORC AJJS. 27

seems to increase progressively. There is no doubt but that the
lands which are situated at the foot of the mountains, or in the
vicinity of torrents, must lose much of their sat and vegetable
succulency, and experience a sensible deterioration, from the ef-
fect of the abundant rains, and the inundations of the torrents.
To these physical causes, may be added those which arise from
the want of information, means, and activity of the husband-
man.

In the district dependant on Palma, the capital, are some fields
or rather muddy lands, which are entirely uncultivated. There
are also other lands of the same kind, and in the same neglected
state, in the districts of Andraig, Calvia, Campos, Santagni, Pe-
tra, Muro, Peubla, Alcudia, and Pollenza : the natural fertility
of the soil, nevertheless promises to reward the. labours of the
industrious husbandman ; the little which has been sown has
produced in a ratio of forty to one. What a resource for the
islander, and with what ease might he free himself from the tax,
which he annually pays to the states of Barbary, to make up
the deficiency of corn.

This hope w not founded on a false calculation ; its possibility
may be known, by casting the eyes around on other portions of
land in the neighbourhood of Arta and Manacor, which are pro-
per for the cultivation of corn, and which are nevertheless al-
most entirely neglected, and where, at least for two years succes-
sively, no labour has been done.

The draining of the inundated lands is easy, and shews itself
to be so, by the tendency of the waters to the sea, and their vi-
cinity to the beach.

The Majorcan farmer is uninformed, or at most knows but
little of the improvements in agriculture practised by strangers.
His instruments of tillage are defective ; the plough without
wheels, is only composed of a long piece of wood, at the bot-
tom of which is fixed the share, and at the other extremity is
placed the heavy yoke ; they commonly make use of mules,
and even asses are employed to dnlw the plough. These ani-
mals are put to, in the same manner as oxen, which are also
used in some parts of the island ; the yoke rests on the shoulders.
This method of putting to the cattle, takes away from their
strength; the labourer is obliged alternatively to raise and push
down the ploughshare ; the furrows are consequently of little
depth, and the land seems rather raked than ploughed.

To manure the lands, the Majorcans make use of the dung of
the cattle, and the dirt of the streets, but they have not a sufficient
quantity, considering the extent of the soil ; sometimes there are
pieces of land barren for want of dunging. They also make use

o2

28 ST. sauveuk's travels.

of sea-weed, miked with marl ; but this is only in those dis-
tricts that are near the sea-shore. Many of the peasants believe
that when the rains are very heavy, just after the sowing season,
the grain rots in the earth ; but this cannot be, except in those
low lands, where the water remains a length of time. Accord-
ing to this idea, they sow the land afresh, and the first sowing,
beginning to sprout, is choaked as it were, and weakened by the
second seed ; the consequence is, that the blade is weak, and
the ear not filled. The Majorcan neglects, oris little informed
of the means of destroying the worms which eat the seed, or of
preserving the corn from distemper.

The culture of maize, or of Turkey corn, is very little thought
of ; it would be of great advantage, when there was a want of
other grain.

For a number of years, the islanders have made it their
chief care, to encrease the number of their fruit trees. This
part of rival economy might be carried still farther, without in-
fringing on the lands proper for corn. It is thought that
near a twentieth part of the surface of the island might yet be
planted. Above all, the mulberry trees come to great perfection ;
the produce- of silk is considerably increased, and, besides the
consumption of the islanders, furnishes a new article for com-
merce and exportation. Theculture of the mulberry trees is en-
couraged by the government, which has exempted the silks from
every duty in going out of the island. Nevertheless this favour
does not seem to induce the Majoi cans to make new plantations;
numbers of them are persuaded, that the climate is not favorable
to the propagation of silk-worms ; it would be easy to conviuce
them, that tljis opinion is erroneous.

As for me, 1 think their indifference for this interesting
branch of industry, is only the result of their ignorance of the
culture of the mulberry tree, aud of the necessary care of the silk
worms.

The almond is, doubtless, one of the most useful trees to
the Majorcans ; the leaves serve to feed the cattle ; the green
bark burnt, is excellent for the manufacture of soap; the dried
bark is used for fuel. The ashes of the green bark are calculated
at 8 p. £ of the value of the almond itself. They also obtain
from the almond tree, some small quantity of gum, which is
sent to Barcelona. The number of thc-e trees is considerable,
and encreases greatly; it is thought they might still be in-
creased one-third.

The fig-tree seems to be indigenous to the island ; the climate
is very favourable, and it grows every where, almost without any
trouble ; the fruit is a chief article of food to those islanders,

VEGETATIOK 01- MAJORCA. 29

who are poor. The crop of figs amounts annually to 12,000
quintals, and this quantity might certainly be tripled ; the culture
and increase of the fig-tree is encouraged by the exemption of all
duties on dried figs.

The quintal, or hundred weight, is estimated to be worth a
piaster ; thus, they would have a nett profit of 24,000 piasters, a
sum that would partly pay for the foreign corn that is im-
ported.

The number of those trees, which supply wood for the works
of the joiner, such as poplars, walnut-trees, cherry-trees, &.c.
decrease insensibly. Their number might be encreased with the
greatest facility, by making plantations of them, in the numerous
marshy places. The cantons of Soller and Esporlas would be
very proper for encreasing the number of these trees.

Orange and lemon-trees seem to be sufficiently cultivated,
though they might be brought to a greater degree of per-
fection.

The vine is also cultivated with care ; but it is nevertheless
true, that the Majorcans might much encrease the produce
by planting divers fallow grounds, that are only fit for
the vine.

The olive-trees, occupy at least one-third of the land of the
island ; although the culture of them is carefully attended to, yet
there are means of melioration, which the islanders neglect, or are
ignorant of; many of them do not know the proper time or man-
ner of pruning ; thus the extraneous branches absorb a part of
the vegetable succulence, and impoverish the tree. Neither has
the peasant the precaution of profiting by the rain, to form re-
servoirs to supply water for the olive trees ; and however ex-
perience may prove, that the more these trees are watered, the
more fruit they produce, yet in this particular they are indebted
to nature only.

The caper-trees furnish the Majorcans with an article of con-
sumption and exportation ; it comes to perfection in the most
sterile places ,• it takes root even on the walls, and it requires
scarcely any other care, than to protect it from the rigour of the
season in the winter.

Of fruits and vegetables there is abundance, but little variety ;
most of those cultivated in France, would succeed perfectly at
Majorca.

I have sometimes eaten excellent Beurre pears, Doyenne pears,
apples, and other fruits ; the plants of which had been brought
from France for a rich Majorcan, and which he cultivated for
his own use. I have seen some emigrant Frenchmen, who lire
here very comfortably, on the produce of a small garden, where

SO ST. sauveur's travels.

ihey cultivate only such plants as are little known in the
island.

To carry agriculture to the degree of perfection, of which it is
capable in this island, the encouragement and assistance of the
sovereign is necessary ; for example, the draining of land, drowned
by the stagnant waters, is an undertaking greatly above the means
of an individual, who could never bear the expcnce of the work,
or the purchase of the necessary machines.

The want of carriage roads, in a country where there are no
navigable rivers to convey the commodities, is without contra-
diction, one of the great obstacles to the progress of agriculture.
Every thing from the interior of the island is carried on the
backs of mules, or ou carts of a very clumsy make ; these carls
are composed of a kind of floor with a heavy beam, to which is
fixed an ill-shaped axle tree ; to this are fastened two flat wheels,
formed of several pieces of wood, bound together with an iron
hoop, which is also studded with the clumsy heads of large
square nails. The axfe tree turns, but the wheels are fixed : in
the front of the cart, the beam forms a triangular space, where
the driver places himself: he can add at pleasure, two boards to
the sides of the cart ; the mules are fastened by the neck to an
enormous joke, very heavy, and as big as the cart. This yoke is
tied with a large rope to the beam, which for this purpose has at
the end two iron hooks above, and two strong pegs or pins un-
derneath ; the rope is crossed between these points of support
and stay. These heavy carts move with difficulty, and of course
go slowly ; their motion is attended with a deafening disagreeable
noise. The mules are so fastened, that, they cannot exert all
their strength, and are soon tired ; the driver is often obliged
to place himself between the two mules to assist them, leading
them by the bridle. When we behold these singular carrriages,
we cannot help thinking of the early ages of civilization. The
coaches are likewise of a make which may serve as an epoch in
the history of the Majorcans.

These defects are the consequences of the bad condition of
the roads ; a more convenient and lighter cart would be de-
stroyed in ways so rough and lull of stones and holes; for
though the Majorcan cart cannot carry any great weight, and
travels slowly, yet it has the advantage of being very strong, and
never overturns. The driver on the way often sleeps, without
any care, as he is sure of the mules, who are so fastened, that
they cannot wander from the road, as is often the case with our
shaft horses.

The disproportion of the population to the extent of the soil,
is another cause of the languishing state of agriculture. I have

PRESENT STATE OF ALCUDIA. 31

endeavoured to give the most exact calculations of that of. Ma-
jorca ; and comparing the number of individuals who may be
employed in the cultivation of the lands, with the surface of the
island, the disproportion is soon acknowledged. Many of the
lands remain fallow for want of hands. The truth of this is sen-
sibly felt about Alcudia, the second city of the island.

It is generally said that the cause of the depopulation of this
canton, is the distemper occasioned by the air, which the exhala-
tions from the Abufcra render so very unwholesome. The
Abufera seems to have formerly been a small sea-port for light
vessels which drew but little water. There is still to be seen in
some parts of the borders of this nasty pool, some remains of
ancient construction, which seem to prove the truth of the con-
jecture.

By degrees this port became choaked up with the different
substances which the rains and waters brought with them iu their
course. Thus this port, neglected by the inhabitants, became
only a muddy morass.

1 thought 1 perceived, in the situation of the actual state of the
city of Alcudia, the true cause, or at least the chief cause, of its
depopulation. Alcudia is built on the declivity of a mountain,
two miles from the sea-shore ; in this situation it has neither
springs nor fountains ; the inhabitants therefore must drink the
water from their cisterns : the water becomes corrupted in most
of these reservoirs for want of being kept clean, not so much
from negligence as the want of hands. Every house has cellars
more or less deep and wide ; these places undergi ouud in the
time of great raius are subject to be rilled with water through
those air holes which are open even with the edge of the soil ;
the accumulated waters in these cellars insensibly undermine the
foundations and often occasion the houses to fall down iu a mo-
ment's time.

These cellars must inevitably emit unwholesome exhalations ;
and these inconveniences, added to the bad quality of the water,
which is drunk by the inhabitants of Alcudia, with food that is
not very good, appears to me to be the true cause of the distem-
pers, which are attributed to the Abufera.

I remarked that the inhabitants of the country about Alcudia,
even in the vicinity of the Abufera, were very healthy, while
those of the city shewed every symptom c f ill health, languor
and despondency. On entering this unfortunate place, we ap-
pear to be transported to the abodes of the dead : the houses
{>resent the spectacle of a mass of tombs, and the citizens look
ike spectres. There are not more than seven or eight hundred

32 ST. sauveur's travels.

persons in Alcudia, and yet this city must have had a very nume-
rous population, at least if we may judge by the part it has
acted, in the course of the events which form the history of the
island ; and the Abufera, so pernicious at present, existed at the
time of those events.

The situation of Alcudia between the two finest and best
anchorages of the island, is so advantageous for commerce
and navigation, that it naturally creates the desire to profit by it,
by endeavouring to encrease the population of this unhappy can-
ton. They have therefore held out the inducements of a small
sum of money, a certain portion of land, and some of the unin-
habited houses, to whoever would go and settle at Alcudia ;
they deceived themselves by these measures, for it was evident
that no islander would leave the canton where he lived in com-
fort, to go to another where his best hope would be to vegetate
a long time before he could reap the fruits of his labour. These
encouragements then could only be applicable to strangers, and
few of those could be found in an island, where they are gene-'
rally seldom more than birds of passage, and chiefly consist of
sea-faring men, and where, as is the case throughout Spain,
the intolerance of religion is a constant check to the industry of
foreigners. The surest method would have been to have en-
tirely abandoned the city of Alcudia, and to have rebuilt it in
a situation nearer the point of the isthmus which separates the
two bays. One of the most efficacious methods to attract thither
new inhabitants, husbandmen, and consequently the collateral
circumstances which produce wealth to this part of the island,
would probably be to grant, at least for a certain number of
years, an exemption from duties on all merchandize entering or
going out of the bay of Alcudia.

If the hindrance to the progress of agriculture be an inevitable
consequeuces of a deficiency of population, the manner in which
this population is distributed and employed, appears to me to
be a cause no less fatal; in calculating the total number of the
inhabitants of the island, I make the deduction of those indivi-
duals who are lost to the cultivation of the lauds, and to the
encrease of population. 'To the brood of monks, nuns, and
priests, spread over the town and country, there must yet be
add* .1 a considerable number of young healthy people, who fill
the seminaries and cloisters ; some aspiring to a benefice, which
would give them the means of living in sloth, and others mis-
taking their indolence, and aversion to labour, for a divine in-
spiration. To this class 1 have yet to add another who are
equally lost, not to population, but to the labours of agriculture.

MANAGEMENT Of LANDS. S$

This is composed of a number of idle fellows dispersed in the
houses of the rich, whose whole employ 13 to display (by wear-
ing a shabby livery) not so much the opulence as the vanity of
their patrons.

Hie unequal division of the lands is another error, destruc-
tive to agriculture. It necessarily occasions a bad rural ad-
ministration ; a single family, and often a single individual, is in
ppssession of lands of very considerable extent. These lands,
however large, are not cultivated so as to make th^m of a proper
value, even to the proprietors themselves ; they live retired in the
city, and the former manage their estates. These last have only
their personal interest to direct them in their labours ; they
therefore endeavour to profit by the limited time of their lease ;
and their care is to draw from the land a produce above its
natural fertility : exhausting the strength of the soil does not con-
cern them, but the consequence is, that these lands remain a
long time afterwards without produce. Thus we see that in great
proprietorships, there is always considerable parcels of land
which remain fallow ; however, some proprietors have seen the
inconveniences of this ill judged management, and have divided
their large possessions in portions, which they have sold for life to
divers husbandmen. And these men, thus become proprietors,
have given their whole care to the melioration of the soil, which
enables them at their deaths, to leave to their children the
means of supplying their places, by new purchases.

The population in these cantons is increased in proportion to
the comforts enjeyed by the inhabitants who cultivate the
land.

I have it in my power to give a very striking example of this
truth. The land of Saria was a few years ago entirely in the
hands cf one family It was afterwards divided into small por-
tions ; and at this time one of these portions, which are calk \
establishments, contains eight hundred inhabitants. The lands
which had been in an uncultivated state until the time of this
division, produced abundantly. The land of Santa-Ponca,
which remained in the hands of a single proprietor, produces but
little, and for the most part appears like an uncultivated desert.

To obtain from the culture of the lands all the advantages
which might be expected, it is necessary to enlighten the mind
of the husbaudman, to make him sensible of the defects of his
management, to combat and conquer his ancient habits, and to
subdue his prejudices, by setting before his eyes, the reiterated
proofs the utility and superiority of other methods of managing
the soil. It is to the conviction of this fact, that we are iudebt-

ST. SAUVEUR-] E

34 St. SA.UVEUR S TltAVELS.

ed, for the establishments of societies of economy and agricul-
ture, in most of the cities of Spain, whose aim is to meliorate
the culture of the lands, and assist the progress of the arts, and
of commerce. Majorca has a society of this kind under the
name of friends of the country. But often the means of im-
provement are wanting : they find themselves at a stand in de-
signs of great utility, and to plans of less importance they do not
give much attention.

The chief produce of the island of Majorca, consists of wheat,
barley, oats, almonds, figs, oranges, vegetables, oil, wines and
brandies.

The wheat harvest yearly amounts to 507,228 faneques.
The barley harvest amounts to 178,279, and that of oats to
121,766.

The quantity of wheat and barley is' insufficient for the con-
sumption of the inhabitants ; they import from Barbary to make
up the deficiency.

The oats produce a sufficient quantity for the consumption of
the island.

The Majorcans gather near 107,414 faneques of vegetables
of every kind. The beans alone, although the chief article of
food to the inhabitants of the country places, gives a surplus of
about 12,000 faneques, which are sent to Barcelona.

The produce of oil is calculated to be 2,081,969 arrobes, of
•which 100,000 are exported. The arrobe is a liquid measure of
twenty-five pounds.

The uumber of oranges and lemons is reckoned to be 24,000
weight, 14,000 of which are sent to France and other places
on the continent.

The almonds give 21,944 faneques; 11,400 are exported.

The produce of *figs is entirely consumed in the island, and
amounts to 12,00© quintals ; 952,747 arrobes is' the quantity of
wine produced ; nearly 575,629 are consumed in the island.

They make about 37,400 arrobes of brandy, of which at least
15,000 are exported.

The Majorcans, besides their own consumption, export
about 2,000 quintals of capers of different qualities.

The quantity of hemp may be about 6,000 quintals : of silk
at most to 400. The quantity of flax does not exceed 250 quiu-
tals. These two last articles are very insufficient.

The wines of Majorca are of different qualities. The
ligktest are those of Felanix, Manacor, Petra, and other places
in the vicinity of these villages. Those of Sanselias and Benin-
«wlem are much in esteem : but the wiucs of Bagnabufar are

CATTLE OF MAJORCA. 35

the most excellent, and equal the best foreign wines : for delici-
ousness of flavor, and for strength, the Moscatel, the Malvoisie,
the Pampel-Rodat, and the Montona of Pollenza, are particu-
larly celebrated. The surplus of the. consumption of the
islanders is turned into brandies of three different qualities :
the first, which the Majorcans themselves drink, is flavoured
with aniseed ; the second and third sorts are exported.

CATTLE.

The island of Majorca maintains 6,000 horned cattle ; 61,324
sheep ; 33,6 1 6 goats ; 25,000 swine ; 2,000 horses and mares;
and 9,000 beasts of burden, asses and mules.

These cattle supply food to the Majorcaus, and some for the
culture of the lands, the conveyance of commodities, and the
manufactories of very coarse cloth, with which the inhabitants
of the country are clothed ; the deficiencies made in the flocks
by the consumption of the inhabitants, are made up by oxen,
sheep, &c. brought from Catalonia, the southern provinces of
France, and the coast of Barbary ; and sometimes the losses oc-
casioned by epizootic distempers are repaired from Africa.

The oxen are in general small, lean, and weak, which pro-
ceeds rather from the want of pasturage, thau from the quality
of the fodder.

The mules and asses are on the contrary very strong. The
maintenance of these animals requires but little care, and they
are easily fed. They are smaller than those of Castile, but very
gentle, and are broke-in without trouble.

None but these animals are employed as draught cattle, either
in town or country. A very few days after they have left the
pasture, they may be employed without inconvenience.

The horses are weak, have a miserable appearance, and are of
very little service, faults which are attributed to the influence of
the climate; but the bad food, and the little care that is bestowed
on these animals, are more likely the real causes. They give
them only straw and a little barley. The have no litter in their
stables, but sleep couched on the pavement, which is always
very damp ; economy makes them prefer mules, which moreover
bear fatigue much better.

The sheep are large ; their fleece is very thick and the wool is
very fine, and furnishes the islanders with about 500 quintals,
per annum. The twes and goats supply milk and cheese ; they
make of this last article, nearly 8000 quintals, of which, about
4500 is sent into the kingdoms of Valentia and Murcia.

£ 2

36 ST. sauveur's travels.

The peaiants are accustomed to make of the cream, a sort
of white cheese called Brosut, which is of a very pleasant flavour.
Of this cheese they easily make butter of a delicate taste, but in
quautity it is so reduced that it will not furnish any for the use of
the kitchen *

Of small pieces of mutton they make a kiud of pye, which
they season very much with pepper, and they are careful that the
paste shall be but little baked, so that it remains white after it
comes out of the oven. They make at the same time a sort of
little cakes, the chief ingredient of which is cheese ; they have
therefore given the name of Fromegiades to this singular sort of
pastry. It is a custom in all families, whether rich or poor, to
make some of these pies and cakes for the time of Easter : the
day on which they proceed to this very interesting operation, is
a holiday for the women who are engaged in it, who previously
invite their female friends, kinsfolk, and neighbours. They as-
semble together in the chief rooms of the house ; women, chil-
dren, mistresses, and servants, range themselves without any
distinction around a table of sufficient length, where they set to
work, and never quit their place, till the Fromegiades are drawn
out of the oven. They then divide and share them, making
choice of some to present to their friends, &c. &.c.

To proceed in the description of the animals, the swine are
large ; those they kill at the shambles generally weigh from
500 to 350 pounds. The Majorcans are very partial to this kind
of meat ; the fat is only used in their ragouts. There is not any
family whose circumstances are easy, who do not kill a pig or
two at the beginning of the year ; and who do not preserve the
lard and melt it for the above purpose.

They make of their pork a kiud of saussages, called Sopresades,
which are extremelv hbh seasoned. These are seldom liked by
strangers, but the M.ijorcans are extravagantly fond of them.
They also make a kind of pye, of pieces of pittifar, a kind of
black pudding, made of the fat and blood of the pig, and pep-
pered very much ; they add to this, pieces of love-apples, and
some dried grapesu The first time 1 tasted this species of pastry
I thought I was poisoned, nevertheless it is a kind of cookery
much in vogue.

The day when they kill the pig, is a similar holiday to that
of the Fromegiades, and is another occasion for the Majorcan

* We can onlv understand this pMftagf, by supposing that cheese is of
a peculiarly oLaginous quality. To make butter out of cheese seems an ab-
surd anomnly; but we hare literally given the expression of tbe author.
" De ce frontage on faitfacilement unbeurre d'un &out delicut, &c." Ed.

HfSTORY OF PAIMA. 37

women to invite their relations and friends. These are invited
to porchegiar, that is to say, to assist and take part, in all the
operations of the charcuterie ; which word includes curing sai*-
sage, and black-pudding making, &e. Sic.

They have plenty of poultry, but not many geese or ducks :
the islanders seldom eat them.

They have small game in tolerable plenty, such as partridges,
quails, woodcocks, thrushes, rabbits, and hares, &c. There
are no beasts of prey except foxes, and of them but few.

Among the birds of prey the most common is the sparrow-f
hawk.

The Majorcans keep a great number of pigeons ; there is not
a house without some of them.

Fish is not plenty, the fishermen do not go far from the shore,
.and fish of any considerable size are very scarce.

CHAP. III.

DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF PALMA.
I>

JL ALMA, the capital of the island of Majorca, is a Bishop's
See, and has a Governor-general, whose military jurisdiction ex-
tends to the Baleares and Pithiusian islands. A royal audience
was established in this capital in the year 1571, whose jurisdic-
tion civil and criminal, had the same extent as that of the go-
vernor-general. Don Ferdinand the catholic founded a Univer-
sity at Palnia, in the year 1483.

Iu 1697 there was formed, under the protection of the king,
an economic society, composed of the persons most respected
for rank and talents. Thar labours embraced every object which
could tend to the moral or physical good of the island.

The desire of the public welfare engaged the count de Cam-
pomanes, under the administration of the Count Florida Blanca,
to solicit the court of Madrid for its protection to the above
establishment in the city of Palma; and that it might be put on
the same footing with those of the capital, Charles III. favour-
ed the beneh\ ial views of that nobleman. The new society held
/their first assembly on the 25th day of September in the same
year; and took the title of, " The Society of the Friends of
tlie Country" and for a device, a palm tree hung with trophies,
composed of several implements ol agriculture, navigation, and

38 ST. sauveur's travels.

the arts, by the side of which is placed a cornucopia, and above
is a min or reflecting the rays of the sun ; m the distance is seen
the city of Palma, with the following inscription, Societate
Clarior; and around it, Real Suciedad De Amigos, Del Pais,
Del Reino, Di Mallorea. This society annually bestow prizes
on those artists, or mechanics who present any work performed
with a remarkable degree of perfection, or any new invention
of approted utility.

They also give rewards to those children in the principal
schools, who distinguish themselves by their superior talents, or
particular improvement. Palma is also the residence of an in-
tendanr, and a numerous nobility who are extremely vain of
their antiquity, and tenacious of 'their titles and rank. It is
situated on the sea-shore, and describes a semi-circle. This city is
enclosed by a wall of fourteen palms in thickness, but made with
a sort of white soft stone, which a cannon ball does not break or
split. This wall is protected by thirteen bastions, and other
fortifications of some strength ; but which do not seem capable
of defence for any length of time against a siege. There are
eight gates to this city, two of them are ou that side which is
next the sea.

The port is small, and can only receive vessels that draw but
little water, which moor on the north side to a narrow ill paved
mote, which is about two hundred and fifty fathoms in length.
It is terminated by a bastion, and a small house, where those who
are appointed as guardians of health attend io receive the decla-
rations of those captains, whose vessels arrive in this port. .Near
the mote is a dock where small vessels are built.

There is also another dock situated on the sea-shore, near the
port Aux Pins, which they very improperly call the dock-
yard.

One of the principal buildings of Palma is the palace of the
governor general, where the regent of the audience, and the in-
ttndant have also their apartments. This palace is very large hut
built without any regularity or taste ; it is composed of great halls,
and small inconveuient, ill-furnished chambers. Its situation
on the sea-coast, of which it commands an extensive prospect
from a large balcony, makes a littie amends for the melancholy
appearance of the apartments.

After crossing a large com t-vard we ascended a flight of stone
steps to the palace. The first room is a kind of vestibule, which
serves for the body guard. We then go to the right, through
two large rooms, wherein there is scarcely a seat. The third is
the. hall of audience, in which is, a throne of crimson velvet,

PALACE ANB CATHEDRAL. - 30

fringed with gold. The three steps on which the throne is raised,
are covered with a carpet. At the two sides, are two lions carved
in wood, and gilt ; the canopy is also of crimson velvet, and the
top is ornamented with panaches of ostrich feathers. Above the
throne are the portraits of the king and queen : it is in this room
that the governor, on court and gala days receives the compli-
ments of the nobility, the officers of the garrison, and strangers
of distinction. The room:?, contiguous to this hall, are those
where the governor and his family reside ; they have nothing re-
markable, nor is there any thing more worthy of notice in the
apartments of the intendant and of the regent of the audience.
The furniture is more or less rich and elegant, according to the
wealth and taste of those who inhabit the rooms.

In the body of this palace is the chapel royal, the audience-
chamber, the archives, an armoury, two guard-rooms, and a
barrack for one hundred and fifty horse soldiers. There are, also
two gardens belonging to the palace ; one is for the use of the go-
vernor-general, the other for the regent of the audience ; they are
not either of them any thing more than kitchen garden*. Near
the palace there is a large square tower very high, in which
are kept the prisoners of state. They pretend that this palace
was the work of the Romans ; but from the form and style
of its architecture, I do not think that the construction of the
edifice goes back to a more remote epoch, than that when
the Moors were masters of the island. It is 509 years since
the princes of that nation possessed Majorca : the first time
that I traversed the immense chambers of this antique castle, I
could not help fancying myself cotemporary with the remotest
periods of history, with the Romans, the conquerors of the
Carthagenians ; and here I called to mind the times when the
Vandals were masters of the island in 456. I gave a few tears to
the memory of the unfortunate Belisarius, who, after the con-
quest of the Baleares, and moreover of Africa, was overwhelmed
by the injustice and ingratitude of the emperor Justinian. Nor
could I help making some serious reflections on the ravages of the
Moors. 1 quitted, however, these melancholy pictures for one
which was an object of admiration, the king, don Jayme of
Arragon, triumphant over the barbarians.

The cathedral is handsome, but of Gothic architecture ; the
dome is sustained by two rows of seven pillars each, seven palms
and a half in diameter, and one hundred and fifty-six in height.
The architecture of this church is bold, and does honour to the
artist who undertook it, under Don Jayme, conqueror of the
island. The ancient front, which corn.sponded with the rest of

40 ST. sauveur's TRAVELS.

the building, has been replaced by a wooden ornament in a bad
style. The interior of the church, the grand altar, and the
chapels have nothing very remarkable ; the choir occupies the
center of the aisle, and destroys every grace and beauty. It is
composed of a quantity of masonry work, of cut stone, without
llie least ornament : at one corner of this heap is a pulpit, which
by its form of a long square, rather resembles a rostrum. It rs
entirely of stone, but decorated with some sculptural designs.
The throne of the bishop, and a range of stalls of walnut-tree
wood, occupy the interior of the choir. In the midst is an en-
ormous octagon reading desk, which only leaves a narrow pas-
sage on each side. Between the choir, and the grand altar is
placed the tomb of king Jayme II.; it is a kind of urn of black
marble, with some ornaments of copper, gilt. It is supported by
four iions' feet, which do not appear to be in proportion with
the grandeur of the mausoleum : above is a crown of silver.
A Latin inscription transmits to posterity the epoch of the
death of that monarch. This tomb is surrounded by an iron
grate, of the height of three feet, and which separates it from
the entrance to the choir. The most remarkable chapels are
those of the crucifixion of St. Martin, and of St. Benoit,
but there is only a confused heap of sculptures to be seen.
The traveller, Pons, complains of having seen the same fault in
several churches of the continent. The artist who constructed
the baptismal font, has avoided these defects, and has only adopted
in his work a noble and agreeable simplicity. It is of a tine
marble, speckled red. The pictures which ornament the church
deserve but little the attention of connoisseurs. The paint-
ings alfresco of the chapel of Ascension, are of strong co-
louring, but are wanting in the design. The chapel of Piety is
ornamented with twenty eight pictures of different saints, the
frames of which touch each other. \i this assemblage inspire
Teneration, we are not in a less degree disgusted with the supersti-
tion which prevails : they preserve with the greatest care in the
treasury, a piece of the real cross, three thorns of tl»e crown of
our Saviour, a part of his robe, and a part of the veil of the
Virgin Mary, with one arm of St. Sebastian. They pretend that
these relics were brought and deposited at Majorca in 1512,
by Manual Suria, arch-deacon of Rhodes. Among the riches
of the treasury are six silver candlesticks of an extraordinary size ;
they have each seven branches, and are of excellent workman-
ship; the feet are supported by satyis, which has been some-
times a subject of ridicule against these extravagant enthusiasts.

ACCOUNT OF THIi CHURCHES. 41

They do not place these candlesticks at the high altar, except on
the most solemn holidays. # ;

The clergy of the cathedral consist of the bishop, six digni-
taries, .viz. an archdeacon, a sacristan, a dean, a chanter, an tin-
der chanter, and a treasurer, and of twenty-two canons, besides
a certain number of other ecclesiastics belonging to the service of
this church. The music of the cathedral consists of different in-
struments and voices ; there is also a very fine organ.

The revenues of the bishopric are estimated at 45,000 piasters ;
•those of the six dignitaries amount to 10,000, and 42,500 are
appropriated to the prebends. Three portions of 1750 are
deducted for the inquisitors ; all these sums accrue partly from
the rents belonging to the cathedral.

The king receives the ninth part of the tithes. The subor-
dinate ecclesiastics are paid from a sum of 4000 piasters, to
which is added the amount of the legacies left by the pious island-
ers to the cathedral; they have moreover their masses, and the
casual advantagel^'their functions.

The cpiscoytjti palace is not so large as that of the
governor-general, but much better disposed, and better fur-
nished. In the first ball or apartment, are the portraits
of all the prelates who have filled the see of Majorca,
since the foundation of the bishopric. The secoud apartment is
the library, which however contains but few books, aiid those
mostly on the subject of religion. The rest of the palace presents
nothing interesting ; the garden is small, and is only cultivated for
the use of the table.

Besides the metropolitan churcb, there are five parishes at
Palma ; ten convents for men, and eleven for women.

The number of monks and ecclesiastics is very considerable ;
all the churches and convents are ricfc-ly endowed ; and the
monks have a» inexhaustable fund, in the mistaken devotion of the
faithful; their great riches, and their want ef morality, have
sometimes attracted the attention of the government.

Of the churches in this city, that of the parish of St. Michael
is worthy of notice : it was formerly a mosque of the Moorj.
At the time when the islanders were converted to the christian
faith, the holy mysteries were celebrated for the first time in this
jchurch.1 It is one of the smallest, being only 163 palms in.
length, and 87 in width.

The handsomest and richest churches are those belonging to
the monasteries. They preserve in that of the Augustine.* the
,body of Saint Catharine Tomasa, who was a Majorcan.
They also shew in the village of Valdemusa, her paternal resi-
dence, in front of which they have placed an iron cross. The

£f. SAUVEUR-] P

42 st. sauveur's travels,

feast of this saint is celebrated every year with much magnificence :
her life and her miracles are recorded in many works of her
countrymen. Curiosity impelled me to turnover the leaves of
one of these writings in the Majorcan idiom. Bartholomew
Pont, the author, seemed to have collected some good stories for
children and old women ; but the style of this panegyrist is de-
void of every charm.

The churches of St Eulalia, and St. Magia, possess the dan-
gerous privilege of being an asylum for criminals who take refuge
there. Every church in Spain was formerly an inviolable refuge
for criminals and persons pursued by justice, who could not be
taken from thence, without the assurance of not being con-
demned to death, whatever might be the crime. In civil matters,
all the proceedings of justice were suspended. For example, a
bankrupt in that asylum had nothing to fear from his creditors.
Jt may be easily supposed, how much a privilege of this kind is
injurious to the safety and tranquillity of the public, a privilege
which gives to the man without morals aduti iages so prejudi-r
cial to probity and honesty. The multiplicity1.^ shocking abu-
ses, which this privilege occasioned,.. at length determined the
government to confiue it to a certain j number of churches in
every city.

The church of SL Eulalia is situated in the market place;
that of St- Magia is in ihe suburb of St. Catharine, which is
pntire:y inhabited by sea-faring men. Its being thus situated in a
part which is generally filled with the common people, makes the
privilege particularly injurious to society.

The exchange is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city.
It is a very large ball, whose roof is only supported by four light
pillars. The stone of which it is built, was taken from the
quarries of Santagni. The style of architecture is gothic. 'The
epoch of the building of this exchange, is anterior to that of the
discovery of America. It is a monument of the splendour of the
commerce which enriched the Majorcans at that time. The
wages of the workmen who were employed in building this edi-
fice, amounted to 1 j,0(X) ducats, an enormous sum in those
days, when gold and silver were not very common. Behind this
exchange is a garden; where they formerly cultivated only exotic
ynd scarce plants. 'Ihe love-apple, and the pimento, of which
the Majorcans are so fond, have now taken their place. This;
garden was also ornamented with a stone fountain, and jet,
and with several statues, of which there is now nothing to be seen
but t ruins. The hall of the exchange, being a convenient place
t'pt the purpose, is used for the masked balls given at the time of

THE TOWN -HALL. 43

the carnival. I have seen there above twelve hundred person*
unified together in the greatest confusion.

Near the garden of the exchange there is a small house, where
the tribunal of commerce holds its sessions.

The town-hall also deserves the attention of the traveller, for
architecture, and the sculptured ornaments on the front of the
building. They are like those on the rest of the public edifices,
of a gothic sort, but of curious workmanship. The interior is
divided into several halls where the civil and criminal courts are
held. The Majorcans are eager to shew to strangers, the room
where are placed the portraits of the illustrious characters,, and
the great men, who have done honour to Majorca, with those of
the present day, who hold the first rank among their fellow citi-
zens. I was not a litttle astonished to see among the first class
of these portraits, that of Hannibal, who they assert was born at
Majorca. The Majorcans relate, that Hamilcar passing from
Africa to Catalonia, with his wife, who ^t that time was preg-
nant, landed on a point of the island, where was a temple dedica-
ted to the goddess Lucina, and that Hannibal first drew breath in
this place. This same story is found in Dameto's History of
Majorca. A lofty ambition, and excessive self-love, make
a very prominent feature in the general character of all islanders.
I have had time and frequent occasions to observe the truth of
this remark, during a residence of above five and twenty years
in different islands. The high opinion, which the Majorcans en-
tertain of themselves, is the result of the want of a knowledge
of the world, and of the opportunities of comparison with stran-
gers, of whom they see only a few travellers. Thus a Majorcari,
like every other islander, thinks there is nothing in the world
which can be compared with his own country. He boasts of
the superiority with great confidence, and it is a vain attempt
to endeavour to remove a prejudice which is so flattering. All
the pictures which ornament this room of the town-hall, are por-
traits of the bishops, ecclesiastics, and illustrious military cha-
racters; they have also the portrait of Saint Raymond Lul-
lus, and king don Jayme, the conqueror, is represented on foot,
in a costume which much resembles the long robe of the
Greeks.

From this hall we pass to that which is used for a drawing-
school, where a certain number of young men take lessons from
masters, who are paid by the archbishop of Seville, who is a
Majorcan, and by the bishop of Majorca, who are the founders
of this school. All the other apartments are large empty rooms.
In front of the building there is along iron balcony, which seeitts
to have been added within these few years.

F 2

44 st. sauveur's tratels.

rrhe Majorcans preserve whh much veneration, tlie armour of
king don Jayme. ft consists of a helmet, a cuirass of gilt iron,
a long rnsty sword, and a piece of a lance. The saddle, hous-
ings, and harness of his horse, are also preserved with the sam*
care, though they are nothing but shreds and- tatters* These re-
lics, together with all the portraits, are exposed in front of the
town hall, on the last day of the year, which is a holiday, kept
in memory of the day in which don Jayme made his entrance
into Palma. The portrait of this prince is placed under a ca-
nopy. A forge stuffed lizard, about two feet long, is also expo-
sed to view ; this- is suspended over the door of an apothecary,
who is very vain and tenacious of the priirilege. Nothing cair
be more astonishi»g, than that persons seemingly well informed,
should repeat seriously the ridiculous stories which they relate
on the subject of this lizard ; " This monster," say they, seem-
ing still to behold it with fear, * formerly ravaged the island of
Majorca, and unpeopled the dwellings that were near the morass-
to which it usually retired. One of the ancestors of the apo-
thecary, who' possessed the skin, succeeded1 in delivering the*
island from this plague. He has been granted the privilege of
thus exhibiting this monument of his prowess, on the day
which recals the memory of the conquest of the island, and it*
deliverance from its subjection to the Moors.

A piece of antiquity, which appeared to me well worthy of
attention, was the clock of the town-hall, called Balearic. Da-
meto, the historian, in the description which he gives of it, nil*
six pages in folio with a dissertation on the manner of di-
viding the day among the different people of antiquity. Mut,
who wrote the continuation, has also dedicated four pages to an?
eulogy on this curiosity.

This very ancient piece of mechanism is called the clock of
the Sua. It shews the hours from the rising until the setting
of that luminary ; following the greater or less extent of the
diurnal and nocturnal arch ; so that on the 10th of June it
strikes the first hour of the day at half past five, and the four-
teenth at half-past seven ; the first of the night at half-past eight ^
the ninth at hal£-past four, on the morning following. It is the-
inver9e to begin from the 10th of December, during the course
of the year. The hoars are exactly regulated according to the
variations of the rising and setting of the sun. This clock is
not of much use to the people of the country, as they regulate
the time from the modern clocks. It is, however, of service to
gardeners to determine the proper time for watering their
plants. It is not known at what epoch this curiosity was
brought to Palma. It is not thought that it came from

\

DECLINE OF THE INQUISITION- 4<5

Spain, Germany, or Italy, where the Romans had introduced
the manner of dividing the day into twelve hours; beginning at
the rising of the sun. If we are to go back for the epoch ami
place for the construction of this machine to the time of the
Israelites, we shall see, that under the reign of King i>avid, the
day and night were divided into four vigils. At the coming of
Jesus ChrisU the Jewish hours made three of the present mode
of reckoning. However, an ecclesiastic, rector of the Univer-
sity of Palma, assures us, in the third part of a Work upon
the Seraphic Religion, that some fugitive Jews in the time of
Vespasian dug out this famous clock from the ruins- of Jerusalem,
and transported it to Majorca, where they had taken refuge : —
miraculous origin, well suited to the characterise taste of the
islanders for the marvellous!! The historian*, Dameto and
Mut, only date the antiquity of this Balearic clock from the
year 1385. It was brought from the convent of Dominicans,
and placed in the tower, where it now is.

Near the town-hall are the prisons ; where, as in all others of
Spain, the unfortunate inhabitants breathe an unwholesome air,
and are at the mercy of cruel and unfeeling gaolers.

The house of the Inquisition has nothing remarkable; the
name alone is sufficient to check any curiosity of visiting this
abode. The Inquisition is no longer that dreadful tribunal,
whose proceedings and judgments so many writers have trans-
mitted to posterity ; probably with a little exaggeration. The
edicts of the government, marked with humanity, justice, and
wisdom, have taken from the Inquisition that authority which
was so dangerous : the places are now only given to such eccle-
siastics as are distinguished by their virtues, moderation, and
learning.

The Jews, a class of people whose only crime was often the
wealth they had acquired by their industry, and their knowledge
of trade, now live in peace, and may increase the riches of their
country, without fear of the torch and of the stake. The In-
quisition, a tribunal formerly so terrible, cannot now even disturb
the liberty of a citizen, except it is previously authorised by the
government, which alone pronounces on the validity of their
motives, ff any individual attracts the attention of the Inquisi-
tors, by offensive conduct, or irreligious conversation, he is cited
to appear before them, when he is charitably reminded of the
duties which a citizen owes to society; and it is only his obsti-
nate perseverance in his errors that can subject him to punish-
ment, which generally is a few days' seclusion in a convent. It
too often happens, that strangers, whose minds are already pre-
judiced by what they have read or heard of the Inquisition,

46 ST. SAUVEUI1TS TRAVELS.

entertain a mistaken opinion, judging by some abuses, of which
they are witnesses; and which ought to be attributed either to the
ignorance or indiscreet zeal, and more generally to the ofheious-
ness of some inferior agents. I have myself seen some instances
of this : I witnessed the confiscation of " The Course of Study,"
composed by Condillac for the education of a prince of the house
of Spain, which was condemned through the eagerness of one
of these agents; but it was reclaimed, and immediately the
inquisitors ordered it to be restored. Nevertheless, we still see
in the convent of the monks of St. Dominick, pictures which
preserve the recollection of the barbarities formerly exercised on
the Jews. Evert one of those unfortunate beings who were
burnt, is represented in a picture, at the bottom of which is
written the name, age, and the tune when the unhappy victim
suffered. 1 was assured, tliat a few years back, the descendants
of these unfortunates, who now form a particular class among
the inhabitants of Palma, under the ridiculous denomination of
Owls, had in vain offered considerable sums of money, to
h.ave the distressing memorials effaced. I refused to believe
the fact, but they assured me, that there was now in force a
decree of government to punish every individual who uttered any
iujurious expressions against a Jew ; that of owl is specified, and
particularly forbidden, on pain of severe punishment; but, un-
fortunately, it is sanctioned by custom.

I shall never forget one day, when I was walking in the cloister
of the Dominicans, and looking with concern on these paintings,
a monk approached me, and made me observe among them
several that were distinguished by crossed bones. These, said
he, are the portraits of those whose r-shes were dug up, and
cast to the winds. My blood chilled, and I turned from him
with horror. My heart sickened at the scene.

A Narrative of the Order of the Inquisition, which was printed
in the year 1 755, came, by chance, into my hands, which con-
tained the names, surnames, rank, and crimes of the unhappy
beings who were sentenced at Majorca, from the year 1()45 to
to the year l6yi. I shuddered as I rend. I there found that
four Majorcans, accused of Judaism, one of whom was a
woman, were burnt alive; thirty-two others, for the same crime,
died in the dungeons of the Inquisition, and their bodies were
burnt; the ashes of three were dug up and thrown to the winds:
a Dutchman, accused of Lutheranism, a Majorca*), of Maho-
metar.ism, six Portuguese, one of whom was a woman, and
seven Majorcans, for Judaism, were burnt in effigy, having been
so fortunate us to make their escape. I counted two hundred
and si.xteeu other victims, Majorcans and strangers, accused of

HORRORS OF THE INQUISITION. 47

Judaism, heresy, or Mahometanism, who came out of the
prisons, after having publicly retracted, and being again received
into the bosom of the church. This dreadful catalogue was
closed by a sentence of the Inquisition, no less horrible,
of which I have here given a translation from the original
Spanish :

" All the criminals mentioned in this relation were publicly
condemned by the holy .office, a3 heretics; all their goods con-
fiscated, and applied to the royal revenue ; declared unfit and in-
capable of having or holding dignities or benefices, either eccle*
siastic or secular, or other public offices, or honours ; neither
might they wear, nor carry about their persons, either gold or
silver, pearls, precious stones, coral, silk, camblet, or tine
cloth; neither might they ride a horse, carry arms, or use and
employ other things, which by common justice, laws, and prag-
matics of this kingdom, instructions and customs of the holy
office, are prohibited to those individuals who are thus proscrib-
ed ; the same prohibition extends, in the case of .women con-
demned to the fire, to their sons and daughters, and in that of
men, to their grandsons in the male line. At die same time,
execrating the memory of those burnt in effigy ; and commanding
that their bones (when they could be distinguished from those of
faithful christians) should be dug up, and delivered to justice and
the secular power, to be burnt, and reduced to ashes: and that
every inscription^or armorial bearing, which should be found on
their tombs or elsewhere, should be erased and obliterated, so
that no other memorial of them should remain on the earth, than
that of their condemnation and execution."

There are four hospitals in Palma. That of the City, de-.
signed for the poor ; that called The Mercy, for the reception of,
children, who are the offsprings of debauchery, or youthful im-
prudence, or deserted by unnatural parents, and for the aged of
both sexes, whose infirmities make them incapable of working
for their i bread. The military hospital for the soldiers of the
garrison, and that called The Pity, for the reception and confine-
ment of women of licentious conduct. The city hospital is a
handsome building ; the men occupy two large wards, and the
women two others. There are, besides, three wards, which arc
supported by particular societies. The whole hospital can con-
tain five hundred beds. The sick are well attended ; the beds are
good, and the food proper and wholesome ; the wards are large
and well ventilated. There is also another part divided into
small chambers, where the windows are strongly grated, which is
designed for those who have had the misfortune to lose their
reason, and whose madness is violent and dangerous,

*8 ST. S'AUVEUIt's TRAVEtS.

'ITiis hospital is attended by people of both sexes; it is
endowed by the city ; and the property of the theatre belongs to
it, of which it has a third of the profits of tiie daily receipt*-,
and the rent of the boxes. The management is confided to
some of the principal inhabitants of Majorca, who zealously
endeavour to fulfil a trust at once honourable and important, as
it tends to meliorate -the sufferings of the afflicted.

The other hospitals presented only a spectacle of misery.
That of Mercy has no fixed revenue, and is merely support-
ed by the volnutary contributions of the charitable inhabitants,
and the profits of the labours of children, and of the aged,
who arc employed in spinning flax. This emolument is very in-
considerable ; and the situation of those who are in the hospital
is truly pitiable. The same sentiment of compassion pre-
vails on seeing the military hospital, which is as badly constructed
us situated. It may contain three hundred beds. It is managed
t»y a person who may be said to farm it, and who receives from
the king six reals per diem for each patient. This man pro-
vides beds, medicines, and fqod, and pays all those who are em-
ployed under hire. The chaplain, physician, and surgeon have
salaries from the king. The intendant of the province, and a
commissioner of war, have the inspection of this hospital. The
expenditure for each patient is estimated at three reals : the over-
plus of the sum granted by the king, is a perquisite which the
person who farms the hospital divides with those whom he
employs.. Those patients who are crowded into the lower wards
Jbrtatbe a mephitic air, often occasioning fatai terminations
to distempers, which originally were not at ail dangerous. The
gecdn of putrefaction spread so much the more from $ot .having
a free circulation and change of air in the wards, and the want of
cleanliness, which every observer must remark. The defenders
of their country are here very far from enjoying those benefits
which the tenderness of their sovereign means to supply them.
Here, as it is in most other public establishments, rapacious
avarice and ignorance swallow with impunity those funds which
should give comfort to the afflicted.

The streets of Palma are in general narrow and ill paved, and
jhere is not even one regular square in the whole city ; and
though the historian J)ameto compares the Place des Bornes
to the most beautiful squares in the several capitals of Europe,
it is, in fact, only a small space of land of irregular shape, uu-
paved, and surrounded wkh dismal-looking houses. It is, how-
ever, the greatest promenade ,of strangers, and the daily rendez-
vous of those who do not know how to employ their time. The
pews of the day is there detailed, and politicians settle the affair*

• PUBLIC SOUAftES. 4f>.

■if the sMte. The orators and "auditors, at limes, retreat into
some mean coffee-house to -enliveu their imaginations with a
glass of liquor, or to cool their arguments with refreshing
draughts, Such are the delights of this place of which, Dameto
boasts so greatly. Scorched by the heat of the sun, and choaked
with dust in summer-; and in winter almost buried in the mud.,, '

Palaia has also another small square, situated near the port,
from which it is only separated by, the ramparts of, the. city.
They have given the name of Terra jpana to this place.

According to general observation, made at the time when the
plague raged in the island of Majorca, which is about eighty
years ago, this quarter of the city, was least affected by its
ravages. The Terra Saua may be about large enough for eight
hundred men to draw up in battle-array. One. of the sides is
formed by a small barrack, which is sometimes tilled with -.foot-
soldiers, and' sprnetimes with cavahy'. The stables will only
contain from twenty-five to thirty horses. The square -of the
"Jerra Sana was formerly covered. by the sea, and; there ^s stiljrto
be -seen t^ie ancient entrance of the port. In short, there are. no
public promenades in Majorca; for la Ratnbe. cannot bedopked
upou as deserving such a title, being only a walk about fevyp hun-
dred paces , in length, with large tre.es on, ; each- s$£8f$nd. ,some
;stoue seatsxn Of this walk no care is l#keu ; lor even those,treeS
which have de^iyed, or been. cut down, are not replaced ; and
though Uiosejwhi^h ;remain are ^?ery 'Jarge, they are so distant
^ejlr-om the pifeer, that they afford! but little, shelter either from
the heat of j^liej sjuu, pr from the rain.

Tlierc is only a small space between La RamL)e/and the Place?
dqf,r]BoriTe^,'aud ^terminates, at the gate of Jesu#. Oiifpassing
this, gate we iindr/auotlier w#lk; bordered, with small ,treesj whose
foliage, is Heij.herr a. shelter from the sun, nor pleasant to the
eye. Tt is;in. length, about six hundred paces, ■ and reaches as
far as the convent f>f Jesus. This promenade is frequented on
holidays in the evening. The ladies here take an 'airing in
U^eu; clunisv coaches. These heavy vehicles,-- drawn by mules
harnessed- with cords, follow one another in a train round this
promenade for two or three hours. The footboards of ; the.se
carriages ,afe placed on the outside, and serve the young gallants
to stand, $11 while they make „their court ^o the fair, who are
inuchjflattered by this public testimony of their- regard. Any
carriage which. is going to or returning from the country, js obliged
Ip take its place at the, end of this train ; from which it can only
separate at the place where the carriages began their round.
This custom every one is obliged to comply with. I was one
day witness to a very diverging fracas. The lady of the governor

ST. SAUYEUR.J G

50 ST. sauvrur's TRAVELS.

general took it in her head to break the rank of coaches, and
hers was instantly involved with all the rest. Nothing could be
more ridiculous than this confusion, which might, however,
have had very serious consequences. The Majercan ladies
stretched their necks out at the coach-windows, and addressed
theroselves to the governor's lady in the most insulting manner ;
who, on her part, returned the indecent expressions from her
coach, and threatened them, shaking her fan. .Add to this scene
the language of the coachmen and footmen, who joined in the
dispute and quarrelled among themselves, with the laughter and
shouts of those who walked, and you will have some idea of
this ridiculous scene. Would any one believe that this affair was
the subject of long complaints, with which they pestered the
court of Madrid. The process was determined in favour of the
Majorcan ladies.

This manner of taking the air is called the * Roda."
If any one wishes to enjoy the pleasure of breathing freely a
purer air than that of the city, he must go a considerable way
into the country, where only the riches and beauties of nature
are to be seen. They might, however, without much expence,
make a very pleasant promenade, if to the distance from the
gate of the port to that of Jesus was joined the place of the
JBornes and the Rambe, they might plant a double row of trees,
such as elms, which are very majestic, and afford a fine shade.
They might also add to the pleasantness of the tihice by repair-
ing a fountain, the ruins of which are to be see* at the end of
the Rambe, which would be particularly useful in a city gene-
rally supplied with water only from cisterns.

But it is in vain to hope that the Majorcans would determine
on any improvement which would unite utility with pleasure,
^fhey prefer being hcorched in the sun, and soaked in the rain,
and repeat, with the extravagant Dameto, that nothing equals
their Place des Borues and their Rambe. They actually assert
it, and what is worse, they believe it.

Between the two last mentioned places is situated the theatrte.
It has been built about forty years, and is the property of the
City Hospital. An escutcheon is placed above the stage, which
bears these three letters, A. G. P. This theatre is large, with
four ranges of boxes, to the number of seventy ; those belonging
to the city officers occupy the lower part of the space, and that of
the governor general is level with the stage, on the left hand in
entering. The pit can hold about three hundred specta-
tors, who sit on wooden forms. The stage is in proportion
to the size of the theatre. This building has no exterior orna-
ment, aiid resembles a storehouse, or rather a barn. There is

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. . 51

but one entrance for the public. In front are some arches which
support an open gallery ; two small doors behind are used as
entrances, one for the governor general, and the other for the
performers. Near the entrance, in the interior, is a kind of
coffee-room. All the boxes are let, with the exception of some
few, which are the exclusive property of different families of
Palma, who subscribed to the original fuud at the time the
theatre was built. The stage decorations are but poor, having
no other funds than the rent of the boxes and the receipts at the
doors, which bareiy suffice to pay the performers and others
employed in the theatre.

The representations are composed of pieces of different sorts.
The first is always a comedy or a tragedy ; after which they per-
form the tonadille, a piece of Spanish music ; a kind of cantata,
which consists almost entirely of quavers of the voice, as tire-
some to the hearer as to the singer. The poetry marks the par-
ticular taste of the people, and the words are the most trifling
expressions of lovers. This cantata is sung by a male or female
performer, or by both together. Sometimes, instead of the tona-
dille, there is a quartetto, or trio, of Italian music, to which
Spanish words are adapted. To the tonadille succeeds the volero,
or the minuet fandangado, a Spanish dance, performed by a man
and woman dressed a la majo, or in the costume of Andalusia.
This dance is much admired by the Spaniards, vyho are pleased
to applaud those contortions and attitudes, at which a stranger
cannot avoid blushing. The spectacle concludes with a sainetc, a
little piece with which the people are infinitely pleased, as their
manners and common customs are given with the most striking
similitude. Sometimes the sainete consists of two little pieces,
which are performed at the same time, for example : at the bot-
tom of the stage is fitted up a smaller stage, where while they
act a scene of washer-women, another of coblers is playing on
the ordinary boards. The actors in the two pieces address them*-
selves to each other in the course of the representation : the
audience are delighted, and applaud with all their might, while
the few who are accustomed to any thing like propriety and de-
corum, take the first opportunity to escape from the noise and
confusion. I have seen one of these miserable farces at Barce-
lona, and am no longer astonished at those of Majorca. Gene*
rally, the theatre serves at once to meliorate the manners and
to instruct the common people ; but in Spain it is precisely the
contrary ; for, in many Spanish pieces, immorality and dis-
gusting indecency prevails. And with respect to the historical
and literary part of the Spanish theatre, it is impossible to form
an idea of the extravagancies and anachronisms which abound.

iS ST. SAUVf.UR's TRAVELS.

These are to be" noticed in all their play*, not even excepting the
best of them. Their authors do not confine themselves to the
rules of dramatic composition ; they do not attend to the unity
of either time or place; but their pieces represent whole his «
taries or romances. The hero of the piece appears in the first
act as a child ; and at the end dies in extreme old age, under
a different hemisphere from that where it commenced ;
and often his history is continued during several days. The
Spaniards call the acts ghmate: Jt is with great difficulty that
the intricacy of the piece can be followed, or rather guessed at :
for the story generally finishes abruptly, without any denouement?
the curtain falls, and it is almost impossible to give an account
of what we have seen performed. To these defects of compo-
sition is added the total want of scenic deception : the negligen-
cies, unpardonable absurdities in the costumes and decorations,
and the most perfect ignorance of the subject in those who per-
form the several characters. In a piece called The Death of
Hector, i have seen the hero of Greece, and the defender of
Troy, appear, the one in a dragoon's uniform, and the other
dressed as a hussar; king Priam in a French habit, ornamented
with the insignia of the order of Charles the Third ; and the
beautiful Andromache in the fashion of the present time. A de-*
tachment of grenadiers under arms, with bayonets fixed, com-
posed the armies of the Greeks and Trojans. The scene repre-
sented the field of battle. In the distance was to be seen the
unfortunate Ilium, whose towers were changed into steeples:
A roll of the drum gave the signal for engagement, and Hector
announced, as he was dying, that the play was concluded, by
saying a qui s'acaba la comedin. I could not help indulging the
fancy of diverting myself a little at the expence of the manager.
J observed to him, that Achilles and Hector fought with pistols^
and not with swords. He frankly confessed that he was unac-
quainted with this circumstance ; thanked me for my informa-
tion, and promised to correct the error the first time the piece
should be played again ; and he kept his word. In another play,
called " Aristotle, the Preceptor of Alexander," I have seen the
philosopher in the costume of a bishop, with the pastoral cross ;
the conqueror of the Persians iu a modern habit, with a red
Ttbbon to distinguish him from Philip, whose order was blue ;
the princesses in Spanish habits. The scene should have been
the interior of the king's palace ; but it was a forest. Neverthe-
less several of our best authors have taken from Spanish pieces
the subjects of thoirs, which are deservedly admired. They have*,
like our artists, known how to make use of the Spanish materials
to advantage. In the dramatic works of that country, there ar*

BUILDINGS IN PALMA. 53

fc&en found passages where genius is displayed, and where the
passions and sentiments are given with dignity and animation ;
purity of style, with the choice and force of expression, would
make one believe that the piece was only a compilation of pas-»
sages collected from different works, and badly put together,
and which may be compared to pearls set in base metal. The
Spaniards are very fond of noise : thus their favourite pieces are
those where they represent the battles between their countrymen
and the Moors. It is of little consequence how the subject i$
conducted, while there is clashing of sabres and swords, killing
of people, and castles destroyed; they ask nothing more, and the
piece is excellent. • • -

The Tremoits are another sort of pieces which are much to
their taste : these are those in which trie many different changes
of scenery-, and the number of stage tricks, make -all the merit;
The hero is always a magician performing wonders, or a saint
working miracles. Such is the school where the Spaniards take
their lessons of morality and history.

The houses of Palma are generally large but ill contrived, and
very little ornamented. All the display is found at the entrance;,
in a kind of vestibule, or portico, supported by a number of
pillars. I have remarked some that were of fine marble. The
manner in which the houses are built recals to recollection the
times when the Moors were in possession of the island. They
almost all consist of a ground floor divided into small rooms,
and of one above, where the apartments are large and lofty.
They are cool in the summer, and freezing cold in the winter.
Above these large rooms is a second floor, open on every side';
this is a kind of loft, or rather garret, where the washing is done,
and where they have every convenience for drying. They have
no chimnies, except in the kitchens, and these are not of much
use, as all their victuals are dressed on stoves ; they also warm
themselves with brasiers ; these are small pans, or stoves, - to
burn charcoal. Nothing can be so amusing as a Majorcan
evening : men and women ranged, or rather squatted, on very
low seats around the brasier. One, who has a small paper
. cigarre in his mouth, puffs the smoak amorously in the face of
his mistress ; who modestly looks down and stirs up the ashes in
the brasier with a copper spoon; another relates the news of
the day, or volunteers a song ; sometimes the whim takes the
; master of the house to sing the service in a doleful tone, at the
» same time counting the beads of his rosary; all the company
; joins in a low note, and even the servant girl, who is perhaps
cowering her coppers, joins her voice from the kitchen to those
tbove. , it is -impossible for a stranger to keep his place ampug

94 *t. sauveur's travels.

them any length of time ; he retires stammering vn bon nit
timbers, which is their manner of wishing good night.

'\ he Trench emigrants at Majorca have introduced the use of
chiintties. Tlfcosfc which die Majorcans now have are almost all
th«* work of French m« n.

Their residence in this bland, and the increase of the garrison,
have aluo led to an alteration in the manm r of building houses.
Lodging became scarce, and the hire of apartments increased in
proportion. The Majorcans, whose fortunes consisted of houses,
altered their large rooms, and divided them into smaller apart-
ments, for the convenience of receiving a greater number of
lodgers. Those who built, altered the plan of the staircases to
take up a smaller space of ground ; they constructed the stairs
more perpendicular, which has made them difficult of ascent,
and dangerous to descend, particularly to those who are subject
to vestigo.

I remarked here, as in most of the houses in the cities of
Spin and Italy, the singular custom of placing the privies near
the kitchens. I could not obtain a satisfactory reason for this
particularity. As to many other questions, they answered me it
Vita the custom.

In Cooke's Vojages, may be found some conjectures on the
origin and motive for tl»e situation of these places, which seemed
to me to be so extraordinarily misplaced. This celebrated yoyager
remarked, in a part of the isle of Portland, where he fancied, that
the Indians, not so cleanly in their peisons as the Otahe-
tians, surpassed them in one particular, of which there js pro-
bably no example among the other Indian nations. Every
house, or every hamlet, had places of this sort, so that no ordure
was seen on the ground. The refuse of their meals, the litter
and other dirt, was also put in regular heaps, which they pro-
bably made use of as manure. These Indians were at that time
farther advanced in this article of police thau a nation which is
•ne of the most considerable in Europe. In the year l/fiO
there was not a privy in all Madrid, the capital of Spam, though
Ihe city was plentifully supplied with water. Before this epoch,
the inhabitants used to throw at night all their filth from their
windows into the streets, and a number of men were employed
to remove it to the extrtmity of the lower part of the city, where
it remained till it was dried, and was then loaded in carts and
c!wpo<e 1 of out of the gates of the city. The king, having re-
eolvcd to abolish this custom, made an edict, by which every
proprietor of a house was commanded to build places for the
purpose, and that sewers, sinks, and drains, should be made, and
fcept in repair ai the expence of the public. The Spaniards

ACCOUNT OF MINORCA. o9

Idoked on this regulation as an infringement of the common rights-
of men, and strongly reiisted its being put in force. Every
class of the citizens made some objection to the edict. The
physicians remonstrated, and asserted, that if the ordure was
not thrown out as usual into the streets, that distempers would
infallibly ensiie : they pretended that the human body would
absorb the putrid particles of the air, which were attracted by
those ordures. This opinion, embraced by most of those who
were proprietors, decided the situation of the privies in the
houses. They believed that the mass of ordure would prevent
the particles of foul air from fixing on other substances ; they
therefore have their privies near their kitchens, that their victuals
may be kept wholesome.

A great part of the poor inhabitants of Majorca live in a sort
of cellars, or caves, where there is neither light nor air, except
from the entrance. They are generally damp, and the want of
fresh airs add to the unhealthiness of these cavities. From this
cause proceeds an infinite number of distempers and sudden
deaths ; and, in the winter, the inhabitant shuts himself up m
his den, lights the fire in his brasier, and endeavours to find
comfort in a place where he only meets his destruction from the
vapours which have no vent.

- !

CHAP. IV.

SITUATION— EXTENT— COAST — AND ANCHORAGE OF THE

ISLAND OF MINORCA.

' • ■ ■ . .

M- ■•:
INORCA is the second of the Balearic Isles. It takes its
name from its lesser size ; it runs W. N. W. and E. N. E. der
scribing a parallelogram. From the Cape to la Mola, the E. N. E.
to that of Minorca de Ciutadella, they count at least €5 miles in
length; the width of the island varied from eight to 12 miles:
Minorca is situated to the E. N. E. of Majorca. The strait
which separates them in the point where the shores are nearest,'
is at most tw.o miles and a quarter wide. From Mdnt Toro de
Minorca, the highest point in the island, and from Cape de
Ciutadella, the land of Majorca is plainly discerned. The dis-
tance to the nearest point of the shores of Catalonia is.estimated
to be about 145 miles N. W. i W. of Buges, in Africa.- They

56 s t. s a u v k M *'s- rn a v els*

reckon ISO -mitt s north. M inorca w in the latitude 40° 4 1' 4 5 ',
aid 10" 4& \61 bncitude cast of Cadiz.

• The iskind of Minorca is in general level, and has. only one
mountain of. an cxuaoidi'iarv height : this mountain, called Mont

. is situated m the: middle of the *fUnd, which it QtWeffc
on evev side. The principal hfMMM ^ Minorea are those of
Mhhon to the east, of Fornels iofflfc, north, aniofCiutadoila to
tie west.

'1 lit; iiiast'.qoBspicuoiw point* and promontories are the point
des Corps," the cape of -A i tuck, the cape of Minorca or Bayoli,»
the p.niit la Sella, cape Caballeria, o?. NajicfclJ.es, that of Tava-
aitK, and cape la Mola, yf . Mahou; between these there are-
other points and promontories that do. i^>t project near so far
rjtto the Sea. A

To enter ih* .port of Mahon with the wind abaft, we must
keep the middle of the passage till we liatfe doubled the point-
Plullipet,] winch we leave to the starboard, and to the larboard
the point on which was built the famous castle of, Saint-Phil-
Upet. -When they have doubled these two points* sbip> of the,
Wge>t si/e may range the coapt on each, side the; port. The
soundings aie live fathoms near the shore, and increases to tw ft] |
and eighteen in the middle of the port. How ever, they gtne-r
rally make their course to the south, as they pass between the
shore and the island on which the Lazaretto is built.

In making the road Pedrera, in a ship or frigate, it is abso-
lutely necessary to keep t6Tthe"soullT, and between the southern
shore and the Isles de Re., or of the Isle of Hospital, and of the
Redonda, which is only a small island. Ships may also pass
between this island and that of the Lazaretto ; but although five
talhorns are found in the northern part of this little stiait,Jt is vj
harrow, that it n'-quires a perfect knowledge of the passage to
venture through it. To the E. Kl fe. of trie island, there is a
a shoal with twenty- four feet of water only, upon which ships
have gryuadt <J diat have anchored to the south of this shoal.

With jh< wind at south, and having doubled the Isle of JaW
Hospit;^ i^nd the small islaml, vessels are safe in port, and m;n*>
remain cU*r in shore on, either side, at, the distance of -ubeu%
hail a, u»^!<j* l«.ngt)i,as far as the southern part of the island,
1 I the machine to mast the ships. The an-

choiage if here,, seven or eight fathoms, good bottom mooring,
Wm.Wtm ulh-west. -

. Lnterm^^iili ih. wuid N. E. N. W. and S. VV. it is n« i
:o pakeje^1^ and avoid a shoal which runs out- to the sourU
ihc point of the Mola, about the third of a cable's , length *
V1 H* WjUfU'Fj l*lc soundings are four fathoms ; but u little

DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATORS. 57

ttier out there is a good bottom. There is another shoal which
runs out above half a cable's length to the south-east of the
point Phillipet ; at this distance the bottom is four or five fa-
thoms. Another shoal to the E. N. E. from the point of the
castle of Saint- Philip, runs out half a cable's length. With ever
so little sea, the breakers of these three shoals are seen, from
their beginning half way across ; but if there is a heavy sea, the
breakers are observed the whole length ; so that viewing the
three points sideways, the entrance of the port appears only one
continued reef.

• Near the middle of that part of the point where the castle of
St. Philip was built, which place is called the Redon, there
is another shoal which runs out to sea, about the third of a
cable's length ; the breakers are only seen when the wind blows
fresh N. and N. E. ; and when it is S. W. the entrance is
unsafe. When the wind is too strong to get within these shoals,
there is good anchorage on the outside of them, of 25 and SO
fathom, good bottom ; but it must be observed, that there is
here a high sea when the wind is north.

The Cape Mola, to the N.E. of the mouth of the har-
bour, is a high perpendicular promontory ; at the foot of which
are three rocks that may be approached without fear ; the
bottom clean.

N. N. W. quarter W. a mile and three quarters from the
Mola, is Cape Negro, thus named from its blackish appearance ;
it is not very high, and does not project far. Between the Mola
and another small point, is a creek called Los Freos ; near the
land are several rocks.

N. W. from Cape Negro, are two small creeks, called the
Old and New Mesquitas ; these are of no use. In frdnt are
two small rocks, called Mesquita and Bombarda, which re-
semble two vessels sunk. The creek which is most to the south
is not clean, and with ever so little sea the breakers are seen.

On this part of the coast the bottom is stony, and nothing
but a case of necessity would make any one anchor here ; where,
even in summer, they run the risk of losing their anchors ; and
in winter of being shipwrecked.

To the north of the Mesquita is the roadstead to Benillanti,
and the points la Galere and of Bufera, not at all remark-
able.

At about three quarters of a mile from Bufera, is seen
the island of Coloms ; it is of some height, and forms with the
coast a canal, through which only fishermens' boats can pass.
At its eastern and southern points are two smaller islands, and
a shoal which runs a cable's length into the sea, having only two

ST. sauveir.J H

5§ ST. SAWEURS TRAVRLS.

fathom of water ; all the rest of the island of Coloms is clean. In
. -t. n |Mrt there is an anchorage, called Seselanes, proper
for vessel* o( a iHOtlt rate burthen. Before anchoring, a vessel
must make a little island near the land, called Arenal del Moro,
\..( : li after having passed, and left to the larboard, it may
moor in sax or seven fathoms, with an anchor to the N.W.
and cairying an hawser ashore to the S. E. In this anchorage
vessels are protected from every .wind except the N. W. which
brings a great deal of sea; but they ride safely with good cables.
Ships may anchor also in the S. E. part of the island with an
nuolror to the S. E. and by carrying an hawser to the N.W.
upon the island. The bottom in this place is sandy, and there
is six or seven fathoms. It is protected from every wind except
from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. which raise a high sea,
enough to endanger small craft, which ride more safely in the
port of Grace, a little bay, which goes in shore to the W. S. VV.
where two points form the mouth of it : there are two shoals,
so that in entering, care, must be taken to .keep the middle of
the passage : it is guarded from every wind, but there is little
holding ground.

To anchor to the S. E. of thejsland of Coloms, it must be
remembered, that near the shore', at the southern point of the
anchorage, there is a little island, called Juida, between which
and the voast there is only a passage for small boats. This island
must be left to the larboard, and, after having doubled it, a
ncint of land is observed, called Fray Bernat, where immediately
Degins the beach ; before arriving at which is the anchorage.

At a mile and a half to the N. N. W. of the island of Coloms
is Cape Musegne Vives; it is high and steep, but doe? not go
far into the sea. To the E. N. E. of this cape a shoal runs out
near three quarters of a mile, having but six fathoms at the ex-
tremity. '1 he coast then forms a large cove, or creek, almost
a3 far as cape Tavaritz.

This cape is low at tlje extremity : seen from the distance of
three leagues at sea; it has the appearance of three small islands;
it jnts out considerably, aud the land raises gradually from the
extremity of the cape.

Three miles and a half to the W. one quarter N. W. of Cape
Tavaritz, are the isles and port of Adaia, and the roadstead
of Molina.

The greater island of Adaia runs N. E. and S. W. ; the smaller,
which is the lower, N. and S. The first is a little mountainous
on the northern side, but the two otl*ers are very level. To go
into the port of Adaia, ships must make the western shore,
which is called JSwucous; this coast is clean. Thus all the

DESCRIPTION OP MAHQN. 59

islands are left to the larboard, and having doubled that which
is in the middle of the port, they anchor in four fathoms, op-
posite the mouth of the creek Molins, which is to the west of
the little interior island. If they would go farther into the port
of Adaia, which hardly merits the name of a harbour, and the
mouth which is very narrow, and will only admit small vessels,
they pass the small interior island, and may then moor in any
part. This port runs in shore about a mile to the S. E. ; it has
seven fathoms water at the entrance ; but at the distance of
a cable's length toward the shore of Noucous, it decreases
to three fathoms. It has four fathoms at the mouth of the
creek of Molins.

To the south-east of the greater island, at about half a cable
distance, is another small round island, called Aguila.

The port of Fornels is perfectly sheltered, and can receive into
its harbour vessels of every size. The mouth is narrow but clean,
having from 17 to 20 fathoms of water.

There are numerous other creeks and harbours on this coast,
of little consequence to navigators, as none but small craft can
£nd anchorage i» them,.

CHAP. V.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OF MAHON AND THE SUR-
ROUNDING COUNTRY.

1 HE island of Minorca is divided into four small provinces,
or districts, called Terminos. The first of these has Mahon for
its principal town. Its territory is surrounded by the sea on three
sides, and terminates on the side of the land at Alayor. Its
population, which is from 16 to 18,000 souls, is distributed ilk
the town of Mahon ; the suburb of Saint Charles, called Ravalle
Neuf ; *he villages of Saint Louis, Biniatap, and about one hun-
dred and forty farms, or country houses. Mahon, the principal
town of this district, is at the same time the capital of the island,
a prerogative which is disputed by the town of Ciutadella ; this
livalship, founded on ridiculous pretensions, has been hurtful to
the general good.

Mahon is builf on the shore, to the left of the entrance into
the port, and is seated on high rocks ; it overlooks two harbours,
and has a sufficiently picturesque appearance. Owing to its ele-
vation, the inhabitants of the town enjoy a wholesome atmo»

h2

O

60 st. sauveur's travels.

sphere, and they are there less tormented with musquitoes than in
the rest of the island. This species of insect abounds during the
heat of the summer, and its sting occasions a great deal of smart
and inflammation.

Several of the rocks which support the city of Mahon, being
hollowed beneath the habitations, have a frightful appearance to a
spectator, who imagines at every instant the immense fragments,
undermined by the ocean, falliqg with a dreadful crash, and,
overturning every thing in their way. One cannot help lament-
ing the indifference of the Mahonese to the dangers with which
they are daily threatened : nothing can be m,ore astonishing than
the security which the inhabitants of such miraculously suspended
tenements seem to entertain.

The court of Spain has, however, given orders that these dan-
gerous rocks should be blown up ; but, like many others, those
orders were never obeyed, Thus, the wisest intentions of the
government are but too often of no effect, owing to the interested
conduct of a few individuals, particularly in those parts which
are so remote from the eye of the sovereign.

The houses are generally built with some neatness and taste,
but ill contrived and inconvenient within. Some of them are
tiled ; others have a flat roof like a terrace. The material of
which these terraces are made is aUo used for the floors of the
apartments : it consists of a very strong kind of fossil cement.
Almost all the houses have vaulted cellars. In digging these sub-
terranean apartments, they find large stones, which are used in
building the houses.

The thickness of these arches varies according to the weight
they have to support ; they are always begun at the four corners
of the space intended to be covered. The method of support-
ing theiu while they are making is very curious : the workmen
do not make use of arched stays, or props, that the vault may
be made with any particular exactness, but they owe the ease
with which they complete their work to the nature of the cement,
which serves instead of those helps that in other countries must
be resorted to. After having hewn, with care, the stone they
are about to use, they place it where it is to remain, and
support it in the air with a simple pole ; they then put mortar
round the joints, leaving a hole on the top to receive the cement,
which is kept in a fluid state, that it may spread instantly into
every crevice. One of the properties of this cement is to harden
immediately, and to fasten strongly; the stone* being thus united,
the pole, or support, is no longer necessary, and is removed
»iii' I. r another stone. The vault is thus finished in very little
tuns:. \Y hen they &fe tiling the roofs of the houses, they raisa

• Am

METHOD OF TILING HOUSES. 01

on the middle of that part which is to he the loft, a light beam,
on which is placed the upper ends of the rafters, while the lower
ends rest on the side walls. These rafters are placed about two
feet distant from each other, and are almost always crooked and
knotty, as they make use of the growth of the country, which,
produces but little wood that is fit for carpenter's work.
They do not use laths, but fill up the spaces between the rafters
with a sort of reeds, which grow in the island in great abundance,
and which much resembles those used in the manufacture of
cloth. These reeds, bound together, answer the purpose of
laths extremely well, and they are of great durability. Never-
theless, they do not form a body strong enough or close enough
to place the tiles on ; these defects are remedied by spreading
over them a bed of clay : when this is dry, it is tiled and finished.
The form of these tiles is singular ; they are first formed in the
shape of a pipe, or tunnel, a little bigger at one end than the
other ; they are then cut through the middle, lengthways, which
makes two tiles. They are placed, first a range on the convex
side, laying the upper tile about two or three inches over the
edge of the under one ; thus the hollow part of these tiles are
uppermost ; they then put another range w ith the concave side
undermost, so that they lock one in another. All the joinings
are then filled up with the mortar. The roofs have only as much
slope as is necessary to let the rain-water run off.

The stone is of an excellent quality ; it is easily hewn, and be-
comes much harder as it is exposed to the air. They are not
obliged to dig deep for this stone ; it is found in great plenty
near the surface of the earth, and is taken out in pieces which
they call cantons, that are tw o feet in length by one in width and
beigbth. This stone is not liable to split, and is consequent!/
well suited for fortifications.

Fire-stone is also very abundant and equally good.
The cement that I have already mentioned, is called girisch-
It is a kind of gypsum, of rather a greyish colour ; it is of a
moderate hardness, more or less transparent, according as it is
found whiter or greyer ; it is extracted from the earth by means
of pits dug a little distance one from the other. It is calciued
before it is used, and it is tempered in a quantity of water, ac-
cording to the use for which it is intended ; its contact with the
water pccasious. a violent fermentation, which abates by little and
Jittle.

The Minorcans have followed the English manner of making
their windows slide with two sashes, one sliding up on the other,
which, as only one half can be open at a time, prevents the free
circujatipn of ||ie air j the frames are generally loosened in the

(38 *T. SAUVBuVs TRAVELS.

grooves, and hare another great inconvenience attending them,
for, with ever so little wind, the play of the frames occa ions a disa-
greeable noise; and they are obliged to fix them with little wedges,
which they place between thegroo.e aud the frame; while there
are always openings through winch the air iinds a way, which is
very uncomfortable in the winter season.

The Minorcans have adapted the use of chimneys, but the
prater part of them are badly built and very subject to smoke.
The Spanish hearth is preferred to then), as it is more economi-
cal in a country not abounding with fire-woods.

The luxury of wainscots or hangings has not yet found its way
to Minorca; they content themselves with white-washing their
rooms, which they also adorn with pictures and engravings. I
belieVe farther, that this custom is congenial with the warm cli-
mate of the country. The naked walls give an agreeable fresh-
arse, which the islanders prefer to tlie decorations which would
deprive them of it.

Every house has cisterns cut in the rock, and lined with an ex-
cellent cement. The water which falls on the leads is conducted
tbither by pipes. After the rains they let the first shower ron off,
which is loadtd with all the dirt of the leads and terraces. When
the cistern is full, they leave the water some time to settle before
msing it. To purify it, they throw into the cistern three or
four live eels, or sometimes they use a little broom made of
sprigs of green myrtle. If these methods, which ordinarily suc-
ceed, be insufficient, they have recourse to emptying the cistern)
lo clean it : these cisterns are generally of a spherical form.

The people of Mahon value themselves particularly for
cleauiiness and neatness in their houses : one of the principal
occupations or their servants is to whiten the exterior, and to,
scower the stairs and floor, at least once in the week.

Mahon does not contain any public building that is worthy the
notice of the traveller.

The governor's house, built on the rocks which surround the
port, has nothing extraordinary. The apartments are of a good
ante, but so badly contrived that most of them are scarcely ha-
bitable. They have been built by different governors, who have
successively inhabited the mansion, and who consulted only the
convenience of the moment. The secretary, who has apart-
ments in this building, generally prefers hiring a house for him-
sx If. or apartments in the town.

The town-hall is a small building, having a ground floor and
one story ; the last is composed of a kind of vestibule, and a
large hall with three balcony windows next the street. Over the
front, which has nothing remarkable, is placed a clock. There

MONASTERIES AT MAHON 65

is a flight of stone steps up to the entrance, which Has an
iron gate. That part of the building which is level with the
ground, is the prison, and the habitation of the gaoler. This
place of confinement is veiy small, very damp, and very urt*-
wholesome. Of those, who art- so unhappy as to be kept there
for ever so short a space oi tune, few leave the place without
rheumatic pains, or other distempers, very difficult to be cured.
This gaol, originally designed only for those suspected or
accused, but not condemned, is really a place of punishment,
where the sufferings of the prisoners are increased by the cruelty
and rapaciousness of those inhuman beings who have the charge
and care of tbern.

Besides the parish church, there are at Mahon three monaste-
ries. The first, of Carmelites, was founded in 169O ; the second
belongs to friars of the order of St. Francis, aed was built in
the year 1459- The Capuchins Inhabit ihe third. They settled
at Mahon, in the year lG2fl. 1 visited the two first of these
convents, but found nothing worth describing; the third is a
retreat inaccessible to all but the inhabitants.

Mahon has also an hospital, which was founded about forty
-years back ; it is exclusively for the relief of the Minorcans,
and may contain fifty or sixty patients, who are attended by
men under the direction of a physician and surgeon, who are
paid by the city. The apothecary's shop is small and ill pro-
vided with drugs; but the greatest misfortune is the extreme
ignorance of the practitioner. The negligence of every thing
that can afford mitigation of the sufferings of the sick, is incon-
ceivable. The first that offers himself is employed as doctor, if
he has the address, on his debut, to cure a patient by leaving hint
entirely to nature and the goodness of his own constitution, his
reputation is established, and from thenceforward he may trifle
with the lives of his fellow-citizens with impunity, and rob them
at the same time. Those who prepare the medicines ordered by
these pretended Esculapii, are not less to be feared> as they
sometimes add deception to ignorance, of which I can give an
instance from my own experience.^ 1 was recovering from a
serious illness ; there only remained a degree of fever, for which
I was ordered to take bark. A friend made me a present of a
packet of this drug, of a very superior quality ; I sent it to an
apothecary to reduce it to powder, and divide it into equal parts.
My gentleman would not lose so fine an opportunity of getting a
good name for his shop 3 he appropriated my bark to cure his town
patients, and sent me some in place of it that was good for
nothing, I was obliged to the generosity of my friend f<^ a

C4 ST. SAUVEUR S TRAVELS;

■econd -supply, or probably I might have endured my fever for 3
considerable time. i

Mahon has no public establishment tor education. The young
•f both sexes are left to themselves. For certainly a few bad
schools do not merit the name of seminaries;— where the most
ignorant school-masters and monks teach as much wrong as
ii<>ht in the grammatical lessons of children, and pretend to
explain the classic authors, which very often they themselves do
not understand. Most part of the time of the class is spent in
repeating, in a drawling tone, the rosary and some other prayers.
This is what they call forming the minds of youth. Neither can
one give the title of schools to those places where old devotees
teach young girls to read, sew, of knit ; all the accomplishments
they themselves possess. Most part of the time is spent at
prayers. It is impossible for a stranger to imagine how very
deficient the people of M inorca are of every means to cultivate the
winds of youth, although the place has successively, and for a great
number of years, belonged to two of the most enlightened nations
©f Europe. All that the Mahonese have retained of the
customs of the English, consists in giving a more agreeable
exterior to their habitations, and in altering their simple but
characteristic costume. Unfortunately, they have but too well
copied part of the vices and follies of the nation which they
look for a model.

At the time when Toulon was re-taken by the republicans,
part of the inhabitants of that unfortunate city was obliged to
seek safety in flight, and many families took refuge at Mahon.
The arrival of these new neighbours presented a resource to the
islanders. They might have profited by the talents and intelli-
gence of their unhappy visitors, by offering them, in their mis-
fortunes, an honourable means of earning a livelihood. I ought
here to acknowledge, that the Mahonese have not to reproach
themselves with the neglect of putting to use, in the instruction
of their children, these resources, as valuable as unexpected.
But the voice of authority was opposed to this inclination ; and
there are only a few rich . individuals who made choice of in-
structors from among these emigrants, and confided to them the
education of the young branches of their families.

The streets of Mahon are generally narrow and crooked:
most of them are steep and paved with flint stones, which makes
tbem very uneasy to-the walker, particularly when it rains.

There are not any public promenades ; for it would be an
abuse of the term, to give the name to a small walk, planted with
trees, at the lower end of the towu, on the strand of the port.

TARADE AND HARBOUR. '65

This walk is called the alameda. The trees do not thrive, for the
sea air and the north winds insensibly cause their decay; and
they are left without' the least car.e. There is in this walk a
large cistern, from which the neighbouring inhabitants are
supplied with water : there is also a watering place for horses.
The alameda is but little frequented : the preference is generally
given to a walk in the fields, or on the shore of the port.

The city of Mali on was formerly surrounded with a wall.
There are still to be seen some remains; of one of the gates; it is
now within the city, and serves, as entrance to one of the new
streets, called the Old Kavalle, to distinguish it from the New
Kavalle, which is a suburb situated on the road to Mahon, at
Fort St. Charles. These remains' of the wall belong to the time
when Minorca was subject to the Moors.

The parade is large, and forms a square, with irregular houses
on three sides, and on the fourth the barracks, a tolerable hand-
some building, two stories high ; in the front of which is a long
court, made use of to call together the troops, and to examine
the arms aferl accoutrements. Before this court is a row of trees
stunted in growth, as in general they do not thrive in this island.
The barracks are divided into small rooms, each of which may con-
tain about twenty men. At the back of these are the kitchens,
separated from the body of the building by another court, or yard.
Twelve hundred men may be lodged in these barracks, which
would be more complete if they had added a residence for the
officers. It stands on uueven ground, an inconvenience which
might easily be remedied, and which alteration would make
the troops appear with more regularity when under arms.

The detachment of cavalry, maintained at Mahon, are quar-
tered, and have their stables, in an old building in the heart of
the city : this habitation is dreadfully gloomy,

The artillery is divided into different corps, which keep guard
at the batteries of the fort.

The port of Mahon is undoubtedly one of the surest and safest
in the Mediterranean, and can contain a very numerous fleet, hi.
this harbour are four small islands, very near the shore, on the
right of the entrance. The first is called the Isle du Roi, which
name, accordiug to a tradition of the country, it acquired from
king Don Alphonso landing at that place, when he came to at-
tack the island of Minorca, in the year 1287- The size of this
island may be about twelve acres. In 1711, Sir J. Yemmings,-
the admiral of the English fleet in the Mediterranean, built here-r
an hospital for the navy ; that which is now on the spot was be-
gun in the year 1773, and finished in 1776, and cost four hun-
dred thousand reals. It is for the reception of both soldiers and

ST. SATJVEUR.T 1

<JG ST. SAliVECR's TKAVF.I.S.

sailors. This edifice stands in a very advantageous situation ; is
large, very air}-, and forms three sides of a handsome square court :
the'se three sides arc separate buildings. The two lateral sides
are terminated by two small houses, which arc divided into sepa-
rate rooms; these houses have each a small garden; one of them
Is the residence of the governor of the hospital, and the office
for business. In the other is the apothecary's shop and surgery,
and the apartments for the officers of health. Opposite the hos-
pital are two small building*, tvhere the bedding, linen, &c. &c.
are kept. Behind these is another, which is divided into two
long rooms, where bedsteads and other goods and utensils arc
deposited.

At the time of the arrival of the Spanish squadron, command-
ed by.M. de Langara, coming from Toulon after its evacuation
by the Knglish, this general brought and placed here nearly three
hundred sick persons.

The hospital is rather damp : three wells dug in the court sup-
ply it with Water. The sick are divided into thirty-six small
ward*, each containing thirteen or fourteen beds ; ibut there is
room enough for twice the number. Kaeh -sick person has a bed
to himself, and they are distributed according to the nature of
their complaints. A covered gallery, supported by pillars, sur-
round the building. On the centre of the front is a cloe!:. The
Btirgery is small but convenient ; the kitchens, and offices belong-
ing to them, appear to me to be on rather too small a scale, ac-
cording to the size of the hospital, ami want' several conveniences ;
for example, there is no bakehouse. I tasted the soup, bread,
wine, &c. and found them much better than I expected.

This hospital, at the time 1 visited it, was almost stripped of
every thing. The-English, in evacuating Minorca, had only left
there the portrait x>f Commodore Harrison and Rear Admiral
Peters, which were placed in one of the wards. The Spa-
niards did not think proper to preserve these two paintings.

The Intendant of Balearcs, on his arrival at Mahon, set about
trduishing this hospital. He found it without any funds, and
proposed tp a person to furnish the necessaries for the use of the
establishment, at a certain price. This individual, who had sup-
plied the hospital before tl»e last invasion of the island by the
Knglish, refused to accept the proposal ; offering, at the same
time, to provide every thing from his own proper purse, with-
out interest for three months. The proposition was accepted,
'lliis generosity appeared to me to be an ingenious speculation.
It had been Indeed a very rare example of singular virtue in a
man, who had acquired a fortune with a rapidity truly surprising,
to believe that he was thus making a sort of restitution. J rather

OYSTER FISHING. $7

think the motive of his zeal might be the hope of recompense
in some shape or other.

Almost opposite the island of the hospital, and on that side of
the port where the town is situated, is a cavity called the ovste«
cavern, because of the quantity of oysters found there ; it is hol-
lowed out of the rock* exposed to the N. E. and sheltered from;
the sun. The coolness of this place dm • nig- the summer, engage*
many parties to make promenades thither, where they are
amused by the fishing for oysters, which is generally done by,
Spanish seamen. The work requires two of them ; one strips
and fastens a hammer to his right hand, makes the sign of the
cross, recommends himself to his patron saint, and throws him-i
self into the sea. He dives sometimes ten or twelve fathoms to
find the oysters by the help of his hammer, loosens from the
rock as, many as he can bring up on his left arm ; then striking
with his foot, he ascends to the surface of the water. His com-
panion then takes his place, and performs the same manoeuvre.
They sometimes use other methods of fishing for oysters : in
those places which are not so deep, the fisherman is armed with
a long pole, at the end of which is fixed a kind of pincers, the
lower piece of which is steady while the other part moves ; it is
put in action by means of a string, or cord, fastened to its ex-
tremity. The fisherman pulls this cord to lay fast hold of the
oyster which he has rested on the under part of his piucers ; by
this method he brings up in an easier manner a larger quantity
than can be obtained by the first mentioned method. These
oysters are of two different qualities, red and white ; the first are
bad, but the last are excellent. They find also, in the same
place, a kind of shell-fish, called dates, I suppose from the
Greek word dactylos, finger, because of its form ; they are se-
parated with a hammer from the rocks, which appear almost on
a level with the water.

On the second small island is built the Quarantine, a small
edifice of two stories ; the first of which is composed of store-
rooms, shut with wooden gratings, to air the merchandise, which
is there deposited. The second is divided into divers apartments
for the accommodation of the passengers. A shabby hut serves
as an apartment for the officers of health. This quarantine can
receive but few goods, and a small number of people : those
only are admitted who have letters of health.

The ships performing quarantine anchor near the island.
On the third island, which joins the land of Minorca by a
small neck of sand, that is almost always covered by the*,waves,
is the Lazaretto, where passeugers and merchandises are only ad'

I 2

6& ST. SATVEUPA TRAVElS.

mitted, arrivmg from countries suspected of being attacked bj
the plague, or other contagious distempers.

It is about twenty years since this establishment was begun,
on a very large scale, which promised to embrace every advan-
tage that the situation of ihe port of Mahon offered, in 1804,
there was only the fourth part of it built ; nevertheless, there was
already room for a Considerable quantity of merchandize, and
♦very convenience for a lajge number of passengers. The want
of funds interrupted the work several times, and prevented this
L»2aietto from being finished, which, had the original plan been
entirely completed, would have been, without contradiction, one
of the finest in the Mediterranean.

• The English troops destined for the last expedition to Egypt,
having joined at Minorca,' lodged in this half-finished Lazaretto
near three thousand men. They only- added a prison to that
part which was already built by the Spaniards.

This establishment certainly will help to draw the island of
Minorca from its present languid stale. Its commercial connec-
tions cannot be much increased, as it has no produce to give in
exchange for those articles which they have from other Countries.
Nature seems to have made amends to this island for the want of
local wealth, by ports, which being the resort of every commer-
cial nation in the Mediterranean, must necessarily become to the
Minorcausa source of ease and plenty.

Spain with all her maratime possessions, has not a single
Lazaretto. Her ships coming from the Levant, or from Ame-
rica, when the yellow fever or plague rages, are obliged to per-
foim quarantine at Marseilles, Leghorn, or Malta. 'I he Lazaietto
at Mahon saves a considerable expense to commerce and Spanish
navigation: at any rate, it is more natural that these sums should
be expended in a port belonging to the same kingdom. The
establishment of this Lazaretto should have been accompanied by
the circumstance of making the port free. Jt would have been
the most certain means of preventing the loss to which they are
still liable, by the clandestine introduction of foreign merchan-
dize. This privilege would, at the same time, draw to Mahon
the merchantmen who traffic on this coast. They might thus
insensibly e*>tablish a commerce of re-exportation, of which this
port would be the mart. As in good policy, the freedom and
good of the people are the true riches of a kingdom, I do not
thin' . ie government of Spain would have to regret the sacrifice
of the duties which it deducts from the commerce of an island,
whose connections and resources are so confined. The Minorcans
desire this advantage, but their hopes are opposed by the rival-
ship of those Spanish ports which are contiguous; and more par-

LOCAL ADVANTAGES OF MINORCA. 69

ticularly by those of.the Majorcans. Tliese selfish neighbours,
consulting only their own individual interest, forgetting the gene-
ral convenience of the merchants of every nation, which was the
chief object of the erection of the Lazaretto at Mahon, see nothing
in this establishment but the cause of the destruction of their trade.
Mahon, as a wee port, would present advantages to navigators
which might induce them to neglect those*places to which they
Usually carry their goods, and which would then only receive
them at second hand. 'Fear gave birth to the desire of seeing the
port of Mahon always full. They insist on the specious argu-
ment, that that measure could alone insure them the peaceable
possession of an island always regarded with a wishful eye by the
powers of the North ; alike jeajous of extending their power in
the Mediterranean. They calculate on the facility with which
Minorca has successively been subjugated by the English and
the French, and particularly by the first of them ; for whom they
rax the Mahonese with «n attachment bordering on fanaticism.
Would it be believed, that a conduct so fatal to the general good
of Minorca, should be entertained even by a part of its inhabit-
ants ? Would it be believed, that the citizens ofCiutadella have
had the folly to oppose the solicitations of the Mahonese for a
benefit, the advantages of which they would have shared ? Would
it be believed, that proceedings as unpatriotic as absurd, were
occasioned by jealously that is really pitiable ? that of antient
Ciutadella, which, from its situation, has no consequence, being
alarmed at the future prosperity of a rival, which would, by means
of those advantages, become the capital of the island ; a prero-
gative which they have constantly contended for.

Could vain and ridiculous declamations prevent the natural
effects resulting from the excellence of its local situation, so well
adapted to draw thither merchants, seamen, and strangers,
would not this city inevitably become the residence of the prin-
cipal officers of the government, and the seat of the different
tribunals ? This rivalship has long appeared to me to be a mere
chimera, which i should never have believed to have existed, if
I had not had repeated proofs of it from my own observation.
However, demonstration will always, in the end, convince the
most obstinate. The magistrates of Ciutadella are at last united
to those of Mahon, and of other municipalities. They, in 1804,
renewed their joint solicitation, to accelerate the finishing the
Lazaret of Mahon. The arrival of divers vessels of the Spanish
king, in this port, with crews attacked by the yellow fever, and
obliged to perform quarantine, furnished them with a favourable
occasion, by which they have wisely profited.

The ravages of the contagion which prevailed in Spain, have

70 ST. SAVVEUR S TRAVELS,

induced the government lo assign the nee essary funds to com-
plete this Lazaret ; the indispensable necessity of vvliich has been
established. This establish nieut may now be used, but they
should not any longer defer appointing the officers of health.

For want of proper care, I have seeu two persons die in this
Lazaretto, one of whom was a general officer, and this aj the time
when they had reason to fear the commuuieation of the yellow
U ?i r. I'll, -e deaths spread the alarm in the city ; and it was
vith difficulty that the fears raised on the occasion were made to
subside, and tha suspicion removed, Uiat the calamity was
caused by the yellow fever. The fact w as, that they had neglects
ed sending any physician. *

Opposite to the isle of the Lazaretto, on. the left shore of the
port, is the town of St. Charles, or the New Ravalje ; it is en-
tirely inhabited by seafaring men, who live by fishing on the
coajsts of the island. There is here nothing worthy of note, ex>
cept the barracks, which are built with stone : the three sides of
these barracks, with the common house, or hall, form a square,
where a battalion can exercise. These barracks are on a larger
plan, and better built, than those of the city. Here are two
houses, or pavillious, for the officers. These barracks will con-
tain llyee thousand foot- soldiers. The English built behind the
common house, above the shore of the port, another part, of
one story, and about two huudred feet in length, where two huu-
I men may be lodged.

The K malic is situated half way from Mahon to the castle of
St. Charles ; at present (here only remains the place wlicre was
situated this fortress, formerly so famous under the name of St.
Philip. At lie time I visited l' i castle, in the month July,
in the year 1804, there only remained the rubbish of the antieut
fortifications, and the mines hollowedmnder all the extent of the
fort. Iu 1S0."5, the blowing up of these mines were finished. I
went through several of them, and they gave me a complete idea
<,( the strength and extent of the works which composed the fort
St. Philip. All these miues communicated one with another :
m viral outlets, on the side next the sea, facilitated the entrance
of r« inforcements of troops, aud of supplies of provisous and
ammunition. 'Hie English, when they last invaded the island
*>t Minorca, raised some works on the sea-side; but this was
only a line properly fortified, to defend or obstruct the entrance
oj vessels into the port, and capable of sustaining a siege. I saw
only twenty-four pieces of canuon, which were twenty-four
pounders, mounted on their carriages. These formed two bat-
teries on the bide next the sea, the fire of which crosses that of
a tower, called St. Phillipet, situated on the right of the port,

POLITICAL OBSERVATION'S. £1

having above, a swivel with a large bore, and below, a battery of
four or five pieces, level with the water's edge. I saw scattered
here and (here between some heaps of balls and bombs of dif-
ferent sizes, several pieces of artillery out of service. I found
the several magazines entirely stripped, and even much damaged.
The English, as soon as they received orders to give up theisland
of Mmorca to the Spaniards, sold every thing, even to a email
stock of fire-w;od and coals, which the inhabitants of the Ra-
valle bought for almost nothing. The extent of the ground, oa
which was the ancient fort of St. Phillippe, is at least a league
in circumference. - The plan of the court of Spain seems to be
to leave only a few simple batteries to protect the entrance of the
port. They consist of 25 pieces of 18 and 24 pounder's^ the
lire of which crosses that of the tower and battery of PhiHipet,
which are on the Opposite shore. Of all the buildings enclosed
in fort St. PhiHippe, there remain only some small magazines i»
a bad state, which serve as guard-houses to the garrison. There
is still to be seen a handsome quarter, which is inhabited,- &ear
the cove St. Stephen, whither the supplies are brought in, wbkfi
arrive by sea.

From the batteries at St. Charles begins a carriage road,
which goes through the whole length of the island, and en#<i at
the city of Ciutadella. This road which is the only one in Mi-J
norca, is the work of Brigadier Cane ; the memory of this English
governor is preserved by an inscription engraved on the pedestal
of an obelisk which stands on this road as'y'6u leave Mah'on.
J At the time -'when the English came t6 invade Mirtokit'**
1?98, they made themselves sure of meeting very little resist-
ance from the Spaniards ; in fact, they effected their landing on
a most inconvenient part of the Coast, and where they could only
get into the island by passing through a narrow neck of land,
where the way was very difficult, particularly for the artillery :
two hundred men would have been sufficient to oppose tJnera.
from the heights which are on each side this passage. I have
nrvself been on the spot; where I learnt that the English, whose
number was scarcely three thousand, entered without the least
resistance on the part of a garrison which consisted of near sis
thousand Spaniards, not a single musket was fired ; the governor
m the end capitulated.

From the facility with which the English became possessed,
of Minorca, some people, ready to attribute e\evy misfortune,
without reflection, to the defects or faults of the Government,
seemed to doubt whether the loss of Minorca was occasion^
more bv the inactivity of the Governor and commanders of the

79 st. .sauvcuk's TRAVELS.

garrison, or by the consequences resulting from the machinations
ol the minister.

There is no doubf of the taking of Minorca, at this epoch,
having been a coup tie miiin: the English themselves confess,
without dissimulation," that they were uneasy at the apparent
destination of some troops which had joined in the island of Ma-
jorca. The inlf ntion of Spain seemed to be effectively to at-
tempt, at that time, to repossess themselves of an island so im-
portant to their iuterests.

At the ep»ch of the restitution of Minorca to the Spaniards,
according to the treaty of Amiens, M. de Viv6s, the Governor
general of the Balearic islands was ordered to take possession of
this isle. The general, in his eagerness to execute his commission,
thought it his duty to sacrifice to the interests of his sovereign,
every consideration of decorum. lie therefore embarked in
a merchant ship, hired at the moment, and took with him about
four hundred men of the garrison of Majorca, in some shabby
boats. It would probably have been more in character, in the
eyi-s of the English, if this general had made his appearance,
attended only by a division of the marines, and the islanders
would have been of the same opinion.

They also neglected, as soon as the treaty of peace was con-
cluded, to send commissioners to protect with peculiar caie
every thing which belonged to the place, and the different posts
in the island; from which neglect the arsenal and all the ma-
gazines were completely stripped. The English admiral, whose
duty it was to give up the island, had already embarked all the
artillery, and it was not without difficulty that the Spanish gene-
ral obtained its restitution. The matter was negotiated before
his departure by an officer who understood the English language,
who was sent from Talma to remain there until the restitution of
the island.

The arsenal of Mahon is built on the fourth of the small
inlands inclosed by the port; it is almost circular, situated high
up, in the front of the Down with which it commuuicates by a
wooden bridge on the side of the island of Minorca. This little
i>lc i-i inclosed by walls with square towers. The arsenal con-
tains several storehouses for cables, cordage, anchors, sails, masts,
kc. in one word for every thing incidental to a naval armament.
Tlie marine, commandant and the officers of the yards have
apartments in the arsenal. The ships can careen with a great
deal of ease at this place, and are laid down on a little mole,
where the proper capsterns for the purpose are placed; the
largest ships may go near enough to lay alongside of the sheer
hulk to get in their masts, which vessel is placed at the end of
— 3

ARSENAL OF MAHON. 7?

the molo, several boat houses, built on piles, are made use of
to lay up the little armed cutters and other small vessels.

At a little distance from the arsenal, and upon the shore to the
right of the port, are stocks for building ships. The arsenal of
Mahon is at this day in the state in which it was left by the
English when it was restored to the Spaniards ; that is to say, in
a state of the most complete destitution. A vessel which had
suffered, whether by a storm or by an engagement, could not be
supplied with the smallest articles for repair. They are obliged
to wait for them from the arsenal at Carthagena, the nearest port.
The port of Mahon ought, however, at least to be able to provide
sails, jury-masts, cables, anchors, pitch, tar, &c. &c» to supply
the principal wauts of the service. It is not to be doubted, but
that the Mahonese could avail themselves with facility of the
greater part of the advantages which the port of Mahon presents;
whether by its situation, its size, or the safety of its harbour. Ma-
hon was formerly a military depot ; the Mahonese were acknow-
ledged as good ship builders ; several of the best frigates in the
service of Spain were launched from the dock-yards of Mahon.
The works of the arsenal employed a great number of excellent
mechanics, and afforded food to numerous families, plunged at
this day in the greatest distress, from the want of employ, or
who were compelled by necessity to expatriate themselves and
pursue their habits of industry elsewhere. Every thing proves
that it is as necessary, as it would be easy, to restore to IVfahon
its ancient activity.

Part of the arsenal has been used for the lodging of some of
the garrison troops of the island. It would be an imposition on
one's common sense, to believe that the neighbourhood of Car-
thagena occasions the neglect of port Mahon, which, in offering
advantages, perhaps equal to the other, has likewise that of a most
healthy climate.

The shores of the port Mahon form naturally a mole, which
might be completed at small expence. There are built store-
houses two stories high, the length of this mole, in which are
deposited cables, masts, cordage, sails, &,c. for the merchant
ships. Here is also the office of health aud the custom-house,
neither of which offer any thing particular.

It is not a great many years since the largest ships of war
could moor alongside the mole, so near as to place a ladder to
the shore : insensibly the earth has drifted down thither by the
rains. This inconvenience could be easily remedied by proper
machines.

There are two different roads to go up to the town ; the
shortest is of an acclivity extremely fatiguing ; in either road car-

ST. SAUVEUR.] K

7* ST. salveur's travels.

ri;"rcs cannot be made use of, and the merchandize is transported
on the backs of mules ; it would be difficult to remedy this in-
convenience. The back part of the jttftght*! -houses is on the
steepest of these mounts, and the blood and tilth which is left,
to run down, adds to the disagrccablcncss of the road, an infec-
tion which could be easily prevented.

On the In lights of the hill which borders the right shore of the
port, a little distance from the cape Mola, is erected the Signal
'lower ; object* may be seen from it a great way, and it gives the
number and description of the ships seen off the coast, by balls
hoisted at the four angles of the tower, and by proper flags.
This tower has a communication with Mount Toro, situated a
little farther towards the center of the island: at night the signals
are by fire, which are very imperfect, and easy to be understood
by an enemy. They cannot afford particular intelligence, and
are far behind the telegraph in celerity, and these last were
established by the English on different points of the island ; the
Spaniards, on its being restored, found them ready prepared to
their hands : but, under the pretext of not knowing how to work
them, they had them taken down and put into the stores, where
llity have remained to perish. In circumstances like the present,
when precision, celerity, and secret signals, were so essential, 1
proposed the restoration of the telegraph. They made less
objection to the difficulty of finding intelligent and trusty people
lor the iervice required, than to the expence, although, assuredly,
of little consideration in comparison with the use and intelligence
of the telegraph.

The cape of the Mola is very high land, which is connected
to the island by a tongue of sand, which it would be easy to
separate, if it were wished to isolate the cape. To the north is
a little bay ; it is surrounded on all sides by frightful and inacces-
sible precipices, with the exception of that part which looks to
the poit of Mafaoa. The cape of the Mola is very high on this
side. The English masters of the island entertained the project
of profiting In the advantages which the cape of Mola offered,
to fortify it; but the war with Spain gave them too much occu-
pation to allow them to do more than think of it.

In leading the Memoirs of the Cardinal do Retz, one is asto-
nished at the brilliant description which he gives of the port of
Mahon : " Port Mahon," says this prelate, « is the finest in
the Mediterranean. The mouth of it is very narrow, and
i do not think that two galleys could pass it in rowing. It
becomes ti ider on a sudden, and" forms an oblong bason, half a
league ia length. Lofty mountains surround it on every side,
forming a theatre, which, from the number and height of the

ACCOUNT OP ALAYOR. 76

trees with which they are covered, and from the streams which
rush from them in prodigious abundance, display a thousand and
a thousand pictures, which are, without exaggeration, mor«:/m-
chanting than the scenery of the Opera. These mountains, tr^cs,
and rocks, shelter the port from the wind; and, in times of(J&Ue
greatest storms, it is always as calm as the bason of a foun^ain^
and as smooth as ice. Minorca also produces more meat, and
other provisions necessary for supplying the shipping, than Ma-r
jorca does of pomegranates, oranges, and leinous. In this de-
lightful place are all sorts of game, and abundauqe of fish."

It is a pity that the Cardinal de; Retz, continuing -to give scope
io his imagination, has not given the picture of the palaces, edi-
fices, arsenals, and temples, of the city of Mahou. The happy
Minorca would have doubtlesj been much more admired than
those famous islands which were the delightful abodes of Circe
and Calypso. One can only lament that so many writers have
alike imposed on the credulity of the public. Of tire immense
number of descriptions in travels and voyages which arc daily read,
two thirds are the productions of the fanciful imagination of au-
thors who have depicted, with great effrontery, the riches, man-
ners, religions, costumes, and governments, of countries which
they have never seen. We punish with justice, the man who,
taking advantage of the ignorance of the buyer, sells tinsel for
gold. The daring falseholds of authors appear to me equally
deserving of reprcheusion.

The villages of Biniatap and Saint-Louis, depending on the
district of Mahon, offer no interesting particulars to engage the
notice of the traveller. On the feast of St. Louis there is, m the
village of that name, a small fair ; many of the inhabitants of
Mahon and the environs, go thither on parties of pleasure.

CHAP. VI.

DISTRICT OF ALAYOK, MERCADAL, AND FERERIAS.

-£ J^T the distance of eight or nine miles to the east of Mahou
is Alayor, the chief place of the second district of the island.
This territory is bounded to the W. S. W. by the sea, and to the
E. by the district of Mahon ; in other parts it is surrounded by
the districts of Mercadal and Fererias. It is said to be eight
miles in length and seven in breadth. The population, which is

K2

7(J ST. fcAtiVEUft's TRAVELS.

«»npposed to amount to above 4000 souls, is distributed in the
little town or borough of Alayor, and in about 112 farms, or
coftritrV habitations. Alayor is situated on the left of the great
road which goes from one end to the other of the island, and
about a mile distant. This town* which is the next most con-
siderable to Mahon and Ciutadella, is situated on a hill. The
Jkfuses are well built ; but the streets are narrow, crooked, and
ill paved, and very fatiguing to foot-passengers. The parish
church of Alayor is of Gothic architecture, and appears to be
very ancient. There are but few wells in Alayor, but there is
no want of cisterns, the waters of which are fresh and wholesome ;
an advantage which is possessed in a superior degree by the
whole of this district. I went to see the common-hall, which
presented nothing remarkable : I saw there the portraits of the
Counts Cifuent£s and de Lannion; this last, who was lieutenant-
general in the French army, died in the island of Minorca, of
which he was governor, in the year 1762. He was buried in a
rhapel belonging to the parish of Mahon : an epitaph in the
.Latin language, engraved on black marble, is enchaced in the
wall above the sepulchre of this' general. This marble was placed
there by order of Louis the Fifteenth, in memory of his ser-
vices.

The first building which attracts the notice of the traveller on
entering Alayor, is a church, built with hewn stone : it is of
very simple architecture on the outside ; the interior, like the
other churches is ornamented with paintings and sculpture ;
among the ornaments of the latter description, are distinguished
the worts of a sculptor, who, without any master but his own
natural genius, or other models than the imperfect works of his
own countrymen, has sculptured several altars which have con-
.-ulerabh merit. There are some statues of his in wood, as large
as life; the proportions of which are exact, and the attitudes
natural and easy ; he was well acquainted with the different
orders of architecture, and excelled in the sculpture of the capi-
tals ; his taste was besides excellent in the ornamental part, the
fruit and foliage.

There is at Alayor a little well-constructed barrack, which can
contain from 200 to 2C5 men, and is assuredly one of the best
garrisons in the island.

The infirm and sickly are received into an hospital, which,
though of no considerable size, is sufficient for that part of the
population of Alayor. In general, the inhabitants of Minorca,
and above all, those of Mahon, consider as a calamity and de-
gradation, tven in the greatest indigence, the necessity of seek-
ing a refuge in au bo<pital, which presents them comforts of which

PREJUDICES OF THE klNOSCANS. 77

they are deprived in the bosoms of their families. Jt is less offen-
sive to their delicacy to go into a prison, and though for some trivial
faults only, be mingled with the greatest miscreants. 1 had oc-
casion to witness this singularity in the character of the Minor-
cans : one of these islanders made a formal complaint of me to
government on this subject. Thrown into a dungeon, he had
fallen sick, and I used every endeavour to get him removed from
so unhealthy a place to facilitate his cure, ft was in agitation to
remove him to the hospital of the town, where he might have
received every attention necessary to his situation. This deter-
mination, which i was in hopes would be a consolation to the
islander, threw him into an excess of grief, which would cer-
tainly have increased his malady if I had not given up the idea,
and allowed him to return to his miserable habitation, to
encounter the risk of wanting every thing, or of receiving only
assistance from charity. To determine a Minorcan to go to the
hospital, he must actually have no other place to go to. It is
difficult to understand to what this ridiculous and fatal delicacy
is owing ; for these unfortunate beings often expose themselves
to the risk of perishing tor want, the victims of their prejudices.
I can more easily conceive their aversion for domestic servitude,
above all with strangers, setting aside the amour propre, which
prevails generally in the character of islanders. They do not con-
sider servitude as a situation that leads to any thing ; and in that
they are nearly right. A young man cannot hope to marry if
he has not an independent business ; whilst his fortune depends
on the caprice of a master, it is at best but precarious ;
thus it is with difficulty they find a voluntary servant. This
branch of industry is reserved to the women only ; they are in
general but bad domestics for strangers unused to the customs
of the place.

The inhabitants of the country can scarcely be persuaded to
call in a physician until the last extremity, and often not until it
is too late. I should not blame this prejudice, if it proceeded
from the fear of falling into the hands of a quack, who would
bring them to the grave, and not from the apprehension of in-
curring an expence, the sparing of which might cost their lives.
In reflecting on the situation of the country people, and on what
concerns their health, an idea occurred to my mind, on which I
have always dwelt with particular satisfaction. Why, I have
said to myself, abandon entirely to nature the most valuable part
of the people ? Why should not the ministers, who hate the
care of the souls of their parishioners, occupy themselves with
watching over their health ; their functions leave them plenty of
leisure, and they could employ themselves to advantage in ob-

78 st. sauveur's travels.

laining the first principles of a science which would enable them
to arrest the progress of distempers that become incurable only
from neglect. Should these pastors blush at resembling the
heroes oi* Greece, who, in the tumult of armies, cultivated and
exercised the sublime arts pf lisculapius and Machaon i Would
a virtuous priest, pouring the balm of the Levite upon the
-wounds of his brother, be a less interesting picture than Achilles
binding up, with his own triumphant hands, the wounds of the
fallen hero at his side ? Would Philoctetus, cured by the divine
hand of Machaon, present a more touching scene than that of
the father of a family receiving life from the pastor who gives
him his blessing. Authors, who are as much esteemed for their
zeal for the public good, as for their knowledge, have given in
their works, bearing the seal of humanity, the first elements of
medicine : it ia there put within the reach of the most uninform-
ed. These valuable sheets should be affixed to the breviary of
the country.

Without the parish, there is a convent of Cordeliers, founded
in 1623 : the church is grand, and of beautiful proportion ; the
monastery is inclosed in a square court, and around is a cloister
covered with a gallery. The library contains only works of Theo-
logy : it consists of a heap of scholastic reveries and legends. It
is, however, what the mouks are most eager to shew to stran-
gers.

Travellers who stop at Alayor, without having some friend,
or at least some acquaintance to offer them them the civilities of
hospitality, take up their lodging, as in all other towns and vil-
lages of the island, at an inn, called Casa de Key, which has
very bad accommodation. There are only dirty, miserable,
truckle beds; and the whole of the provisions consist of eggs, bad
cheese, onions, execrable wine, and brown bread. These pub-
lic houses, under the inspection of the bailiff, are generally kept
by a Spaniard. The poor host, in a warm country, where pro-
visions soon spoil, and where they are seldom troubled with
visitors, only keeps in the house such victuals as he thinks he
cannot lose by. It is great good luck if one meets with butcher's
meat, fowls, or game, provided by the landlord for his family,
of which he makes a voluntary sacrifice, and for which you pay
\< r dear. And besides, at this place, as in all Spain, the inn-
keepers charge exorbitantly for every article; but here travellers
ought to complain less of this than in those countries where the
government provides for their accommodation. There scarcely
arrives at a Spanish inn, in the course of a whole year, a
number of travellers who spend sufficient to enable the inn-
keeper, from his profits, to pay his rent, and furnish maintenance

LUDICROUS ANECDOTE. 7$

for himself and family ; therefore impositions will be always
practised, unfortunately for those who are compelled to submit
to them.

I recollect an adventure of a Spanish officer, who was jour-
neying through a province and put up at one of these inns.
When the time of departure came, the host presented his bill :
an ill-dressed ragout of meat, which was the only dish that had
been set before the officer, was charged at sixteen piastres. It
was useless for the traveller to remonstrate, it must be paid ;
though it amounted to almost all the money he had about him.
The poor officer continued his journey, as desirous of having
his revenge, as he was mortified at the trick played him. Two
years afterwards, chance led him through the same village with
a strong detachment of his regiment. He did not fail to recol-
lect the place where he had been so shamefully treated. He
visited this same inn with his company, and ordered a plentiful
repast for all his people. The innkeeper, who had totally for-
gotten the officer and the adventure, set a profusion of victuals
before them, and waited on them with the greatest attention.
The refreshment over, the officer asked for the bill, but with-
out looking at it, presented the host with about twenty pence.
He remonstrated, and refuged the money, but he was obliged
to accept it ; for the odds were now against him. " Take it ;"
said the officer, " I paid you two years ago for the dinner of
to-day ; and I pay you to-day for the dinner you set before me
two years ago." The innkeeper recollected his guest, made a
low bow with a very bad grace, and retired, muttering a thou-
sand maledictions against the officer and his company.

In the vicinity of Alayor there are some clumps of treesj but
the earth is so full of rough and pointed stones, that walking is
truly painful. There is, however, one place whither one can
go to breathe the air with pleasure ; it was as inconvenient and
rough, and consequently as little frequented as the rest of this
small canton ; but an English officer, who was much beloved
by the soldiers, profited by their good-will, and had the ground
levelled and cleared of the stones ; it soon became covered with
turf, and shadowed by oaks always green. Ihis place presents,
an agreeable situation, where one is sheltered from the heat of
the sun, and not incommoded by the humidity complained of in
other countries.

About two miles from Alayor, on the road from Mahon to
Ciutadella, is Mercadal, the chief place of a district, which is
eleven or twelve miles in length, and eight or nine in breadth ;
bounded on the north by the sea, joining with the territory of
Mahon to the east, and reaching to the west as far as the village

80 st. sauveur's travels.

of Fererias, which belongs to the district. The entire population
of tliis canton does not amount to more than two thousand souls.

Mercadal derives but little advantage from being the chief
place of n district; and being situated in the center of the island,
and on the most frequented road, the troops halt here as tiny
go from Mahon to Ciutadella, or return from the last place.
Travellers are not so well accommodated here as in the other
\illages of the island. The inn, or Casa del Rey, is miserable :
it is generally customary for travellers to carry their provisions
with them ; and, for a trifling sum, they may obtain a reception
in tome private house.

Mercadal is not well built ; the houses are very low, and re-
semble huts, which shew plainly the wretchedness of those who
inhabit them. This village is situated in the most unwholesome
part of the isle. The people are subject to very obstinate fevers,
particularly during the heat of summer ; their countenances shew
the insalubrity of the air they breathe. One cannot behold the
inhabitants of Mercadal without being struck with the difference
which distinguishes them from the other islanders. They have
something hard and forbidding in their physiognomy. This
species of ugliness is more particularly remarkable in the women.
Their ill healdi may be partly attributed to their drinking the
well-water. There is, however, at the end of the village, a
public cistern, which is filled by the Tain waters. To procure
a sufficient quantity, they have erected above the cistern a build-
ing, the roofs, or tops of which slope towards the interior part
ki the form of a funnel. This precaution does not prevent the
reservoir fiom being often dry in summer, when it rains but very
seldom. The streets of Mercadal are narrow, winding, and
rough, being ill paved and uneven ; nothing but being detained
by bad weather would induce a traveller to stay any length of
time in this village.

The parish church is the only public edifice : it was falling in
ruins, and the devotion of the inhabitants would have erected a
new temple, but the work was began and was suspended for
want of means.

About nine miles to the east of Mercadal, is the village Fere-
rias. It contain* nothing worth describing. It is distant about
a gun shot from the great road, which runs through the island
lengthways. This village is so ill built, and so poor, that it i>
a loss of time to turn out of the road to see it. However, there
are quarters which can contain two hundred men, and there is a
small house for the officers. The English, by whom these
quaiters were built, had a detachment always here. The Spa-
niards do not. keep any troops at this place. The territory pf

account of Mount toro. 81

1'ereYias may be ten miles in length and lour in breadth, in
the widest part. It is poor, and less cultivated than any
other spot of the island : to this last circumstance is owing
the abundance of game in the canton. There are, how-
ever, to be found large tracts of land, which invite the cul-
tivator to labour: the people, naturally indolent, are from,
day to day impoverished by the monks, who are main-
tained in idleness at their expencc. If the poor inhabitant
of this part of Minorca had any encouragement, he would
soon rouse from the inactivity in which he languishes, and
the island would become enriched by the cultivation of so
much laud, now lost to the country.

On leaving Mercadal, the traveller finds himself a little
distance from, and almost at the foot of Mount Toro.
This mountain, the highest in Minorca, shews its lofty head
in the middle of the island, which it overlooks on every
side: it is in the form of a'sugar-loaf, on a base of several
miles in circumference ; the ascent is by a crooked path,
arid full ©f stones. This road is protected on the side where
is the steepest declivity by a wall of rough stones, which
they have left broken down in several places, and chiefly in
the highest and most dangerous parts. I must acknowledge,
that I could not help entertaining some sensations of fear
when I looked from the precipice, down a perpendicular
hollow, to a frightful depth; and where I was not more
than a foot distant from the edge.

When arrived at the summit of the Mount Toro, the
traveller is rewarded by the varied scenery of the whole
island, with a most extensive prospect. The mountain
serves as a beacon to navigators who make the land of
Minorca, and who would enter. its ports. The air respired
on the top of Mount Toro is the most pure and wholesome.
The whole of the summit is occupied by a convent of Au-
gustins : this monastery is extensive, and is not wanting in
accommodations. I went to see it, but there^was not any
thing very wrorthy of notice. The monk who accompanied
me, did not fail, on our entrance into the church, to draw
my attention to a sort of hollow grotto in the rock, set in
the wall of one of the chapels, on which was roughly sculp-
tured the figure of a bull, discovering, by butting with its
horns, the image of the Virgin. My conductor gave me a
long and tiresome history of this miracle, and assured me,
in the most serious manner, that the mountain had thence
derived its name. I took particular car*e not to attribute the
origin of the word Toro in his presence to Tor, which, in

• ST. SAUVIiUR.j l

8-2 *t. sauveur's travels.

the Arabian language signifies elevation, certainly the most
natural and probable etymology. 1 could not help, at the
same time, entertaing the melancholy reflection, that the
ministers of our religion too frequently impose on the cre-
dulity and simplicity of the people. I cast my eyes after-
wards on a vast number of ex-votos, with which the chapel
is covered. How much to be pitied are the unhappy beings
who go daily to affix to these sacred walls the monuments
of their faith, and the trophies of the superior craftiness of
the monks. The most severe and painful pilgrimages are
made "to Mount Toro: I have seen men and even women
make the journey with bare feet; I have even seen them
carry their devotion so far, as to ascend the mountain on
their knees reciting slowly their rosaries. Surely these prac-
tices are not less absurd with us, than the austerities of the
Bonzes and the followers of Mahomet. The last do not
pay for their absurdities, arid (the first never fail to lodge
m the hands of the monks the tributes of their folly, m
which consists all the difference.

The English had built a telegraph on the summit of
Mount Toro; it communicated with all the others placed
on the different points of the island. I am sometimes
tempted to wish, from its- advantageous position, that the
convent of the Augustins was transformed into fortified
"barracks, where might be kept a sufficient force. From this
post, overlooking the whole island, they could descend
rapidly, in case of attack to any given point where the
enemy might attempt a landing.

Six miles from Mount Toro, towards the north, is Port
Tornels ; it describes a large circle, of which the mouth is
very narrow, and is to the north. This port is well sheltered,
and can, iu some parts of it, receive the largest vessels, but
it requires a perfect knowledge of the soundings; there are
shoals even in the middle of it : the difficulty of going in is
still more increased by the squalls which come from the
mountains and hills forming the passage. The entrance is
defended by a small fort, built upon a point to the right of
the harbour : it is square, constructed of. free-stone, flanked
with four bastions, and as many curtains, with a wretched
moat, without exterior works. The rooms and magazines
occupy the interior of the square. These buildings are
vaulted, and above it formed the rampart. When the Ens^
lish took Minorca, there was a chapel in this fort. The
barrack-masters being ordinarily, the suttlers of the detach-
ment, changed it into a tavern. The jire of this fort is sup-

MOUNT ST. AGATHA. 83

ported by that of another, constructed with numbered pieces
of wood, and which was brought from London. It is elect-
ed on a small island at the end of the port, and opposite
the mouth. This fort has two stories; the first serves to
lodge the garrison, Lhe second is cut in battlements, or rather
port-holes for a battery of four pieces, of a large calibre
Under this portable castle they have dug a subterra-
neous place, which serves as a magazine for powder; and
there is also a cistern. Besides these two small forts, the
batteries of which consist of nine pieces; there is, ou a
point at the mouth of the port on the left, a tower mounted
with an eighteen pounder on a swivel : when 1 visited these
two forts I found them absolutely defenceless, and only saw
eight pieces ofariiilerv, not mounted. The English had built
on the shore of the Port Fornel, a small hospital, with from,
thirty to forty beds, quarters for about sixty men>and rooms
for the commandant and officers. These edifices which were
very much out of repair at the time the island was restored to
the Spaniards, are now in appearance deserted. The gar-
rison consists only of eight infantry and two gunners, com-
manded by a serjeant.

On the right shore of the port is a little village, or rather
a hamlet inhabited by a few fishermen. The Port of For-
nel might be rendered advantageous to commerce and navi-
gation. In place, of the huts of the fishermen, there might
be built, in a short space of time, commodious dwellings
and warehouses, where the merchant might deposit his
goods, the islander his articles of trade, and the mariner his-
naval stores. The Port of Fornel might be made of utility,
without being an injury to that of Muhon, which would al-
ways possess superior advantages.

To the north-wtrst of Mercadal is Mount St. Agatha, it
towers above a quantity of smaller hills which surround it.
The scenery together presents a vast landscape of rocks,
steep and barren: the traveller feels, at sight of the picture,
at once admiration and terror ; his reflections are lea to the
causes which have oecasioned this dese.rt state of a part of
the island. In considering the assemblage of mountains,
which appear one vast rock stript of verdure, his imagina-
tion recurs to the time when it was fertile, and enriched
with trees and plants. The soil seems to have been, for
ages, carried down by the successive rains in the plain be-
low ; perhaps violent earthquakes may have accelerated the
phenomena. The entrails of the mountains are, in fact,
to be seen through the chasms, and present only 'a heap of

84 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVEtg.

rubbish, and of broken pieces of the rock. If nature, ho\v«i
ever, seem here to have spread forth her ruins, she displays
herself with all her beauty on the opposite side; with what
delightful emotion does the traveller turn his eye from a
first scene, to the delightful landscape of fertile vallies, vine*
yards, and sloping hills in furrows made by the plough of
the peaceful labourer, or offering their rich verdure to the
bleating flocks.

A naturalist, in surveying the mountains which surround
St. Agatha, will observe a peculiarity in the form of one of
the lesser ones. It consists entirely of a naked rock divided
into several beds heaped one on the other, and which are
not parallel to the surface of the earth, but which form an
angle of more than thirty degrees with the horizon. This
singularity seems to contradict the opinion of philosophers,
who pretend that the different particles of matter of which
the earth is composed precipitate themselves in the manner
water evaporates, according to their respective degrees of
density ; and that they have formed all over the globe regu-
lar and horizontal beds. May not the inclined direction of
the stones which compose the little mountain in the neigh-
bourhood of Saint Agatha be attributed to some change
which has happened since the deluge ?

It is not an easy matter to get to the summit of mount
Agatha, the only way is by an ascent cut into the rock in
the way of stairs, of which the steps are gigantic. The
mules climb up, however loaded. If, however, these ani-
mals are used to ascend, sure footed as they are, it is pru-
dent to walk on foot. These steps are, in several places,
wet with the springs, which makes it very slippery and dan-
gerous in many parts.

The summit of mount Agatha presents a little plain of
about six acres. It is the residence of a shepherd and his
family ; he has a flock cff sheep which are nourished by the
small quantity of herbage to be found on the mountain
and its environs. On the heights is built a small chapel,
dedicated to Saint Agatha. It is a pilgrimage which the
women are eager to make. The walls of this chapel are
adorned with figures in wax, silver, and wood, the monu-
ments of miraculous cures. Saint Agatha relieved the diseases
pf the breast. Every saint here, as elsewhere, is specially
gifted by the credulity of the people and the address of the
priests, for the cure of particular maladies.

The mount St. Agatha was formerly one of the most an-
picnt military po«t3 of the island. It is not to be doubte4
5

FAttM OF ADAIA. 85

that the Romans profited of so advantageous a position;
the Moors, masters of Minorca, fortified mount St. Agatha,
and there defended themseLves a considerable time, after
their countrymen, vanquished in different combats, were
compelled to abandon all the other fortresses of the island.
The ruins at present in existence of the ancient fortifications
do not shew an epoch more remote than that of the domi-
nion of the Moors. These fortifications were irregular as
the ground on which they were raised. On the summit
was a fort which could hold out after the outworks had been
taken, and is composed of thick walls, flanked at regular
distances by towers. In the lower part of the summit are
dug two immense cisterns, which are yet entire. These re-
servoirs are constructed of a kind of cement moulded in a
frame, and the inner part plaistered with a still finer sort.
Armstrong, in his history of Minorca, says, that these re-
servoirs contain two millions one hundred and ninety thou-
sand three hundred and eighty-four Paris pints. T he cal-
culation appears to me a little exaggerated.

It is not far from mount St. Agatha to Adaia, a farm
which deserves particular notice. It is situated almost on
the sea-shore of a little port to the east of mount Toro. It
presents, on this side, a pleasant amphitheatre, whilst on
the opposite, it is surrounded by mountains. The summit
of these mountains is continually stript of soil carried away
by the rains, the slime of which, deposited at the foot of the
hills, produce in the vallies a prodigious fertility. The
mountains protect the farm from the north wind ; however,
this part of the isle passes for unwholesome, and they attri-
bute, with reason, the cause to the exhalations from the
marshes formed by the rain waters which stagnate in the
hollows beneath the mountains ; it would be easy to remedy
this inconvenience. It would not be more difficult, nor of
less utility to repair, or rather to make the road from Mahon
to this part of the country, from which it is only distant
nine miles; although this journey is so short it is a painful,
and even dangerous, in some places, particularly in the
winter, when the weather is bad.

The gardens belonging to the farm of Adaia are very fer-
tile, cultivated with care, and produce every kind of fruit
and vegetables, the culture of which has been intro-
duced. The vines, orange trees, and pomegranates succeed
better than in any other part of the island. The Minorca ns
»et a particular value on the water melons of Adaia. One
pf the great advantages of this farm is that of having in the

60 st. sauyecr's travels.

vicinity a very plentiful spring, which supplies at pleasure
water for the gardens, and which helps not a little to give
the fruits and vegetables of the farm of Adaia, an acknow-
ledged superiority over those of the rest of the island, as in
the other parts they are obliged to make use of well water,
which makes the watering more laborious, and not so com-
plete.

There are some well shaded promenades at Adaia, and
where, during the summer heats, one breathes with pleasure
a refreshing breeze from the sea, which is very pleasant and
agreeable : Adaia has also the advantage of a small port,
where the amusement of fishing may be had amidst land-
scapes of a beautifully varied perspective. The entrance is
concealed by the intermediate lands towards the north.
This port resembles a river ; its banks are covered with ever-
greens, which bend over the water that reflects their foliage.
Unfortunately, rocks and shallows make this port useless as
a place of anchorage. Thus there are to be seen only small
fishing boats in the harbour.

The situation and real utility of the farm of Adaia makes
one regret that the proprietor, who is a man of taste, does
not enjoy a fortune sufficient to afford the means to profit
by the bounteous gifts of nature, the excellent qualities of
the soil, and the advantage of plentiful springs of water:
with such means he could presently trausform the humble
farm into a most delightful residence. A traveller might
then indeed with truth make use of the words of cardinal
de Ketz, in his description of the port of Mahon. The
stranger who is entertained at Adaia is charmed with the
amenity and sweetness of disposition belonging to the cha-
racter of the proprietor; in addition to which excellent
qualities, he possesses a profound erudition with an en-
lightened mind, that, in the judgment of the intelligent,
gives him the first rank among his fellow citizens.

A narrow Cape separates the port of Adaia from another
small anchorage, called the Molin ; where the English
landed in the year 1798.

CHAP. VII.

DISTRICT OF CIUTADELLA.

j\T the western extremity or* the island of Minorca is
situated the town of Ciutadella. It is built a short distance
from the sea shore. The port is small, and at the end shal-
low and marshy ; it is a kind of narrow canal with rocks on
each side; the entrance is difficult, and can only admit
small vessels, and those are often much disabled at times
when the cross winds blow. To the right of the entrance
is a large round tower, built by the English, who placed
there a telegraph. This tower is protected by a platform,
on which are two large swivels. This sort of fort could at
most only prevent the entrance of a privateer.

At a short distance is the church of St. Nicholas,
held in great veneration among seafaring people, who
go thither on pilgrimage. They have hung on the walls
some shabby pictures, representing the dangers to which
they have been exposed in the course of their voyages, and
their deliverance from which perils, they piously attribute
to the intercession of Saint Nicholas. This religious cus-
tom is very ancient, and may be traced to a very remote
period. It was practised among the Greeks and Romans,
but often, not content with hanging these representations in
the temples, those who had made the vow, wore them sus-
pended to their necks, and thus presented to the eyes of
their fellow citizens the history of the dangers they had
escaped. Horace alludes to this custom in the fifth ode of
his first book :

" Me tabula sacer
Votiva paries indicat avida

Suspendisse potenti
Vestimenta maris deo.''

On the shore to the left is another tower, on which they
hoist the signals to the ships in the orfmg.

The city of Ciutadella is surrounded by a wall, part of
which, on the side next the land, is the work of the Moors.
It is very high, and has been well preserved for near six
centuries. The more modern part consists of a rampart,

83 ST. sauveur's travels.

and several bastions and curtains built with liewn stone,
Kear the curtains the rampart is narrow ; the bastions arc
broad ; part of the moat which they had begun to dig in
the rock is deep ; there is also to be seen the beginning of
the parapet of a covered way. These works, abandoned by
the English, remain in an unfinished state. In cases of
alarm, the garrison of Ciutadella, incapable of sustaining a
siege, must necessarily fall back into fort St. Phillippe ; but
now that all the fortifications of the castle are entirely de-
stroyed, the troops which might be found at Ciutadella,
would be obliged to capitulate almost without resistance.

The wretched fortifications of this city were besides strip-
ped of artillery, at the time when the English broke with
Spain, and suddenly began hostilities. Their squadron*
having sent their cruisers to the shores of Minorca, justified
the fear that the island would be invaded. These fears were
strengthened by the capture of the Castile regiment, sent
from Barcelona to augment the forces of Minorca. The
conveyance of the transports with the troops from Barce-
lona directly to Minorca exposed them to be taken ; a surer
way would have been that of Denia, in the kingdom of \ a-
lentia, making use of small boats only, which from the shore
seeing the whole of the canal, with the island of Ivica,
might have taken advantage of the first favourable moment
for so short a course. They would have passed from Ivica
to Majorca, and marched the troops from this port toAlcu-
dia, from whence they could reach Ciutadella without dau-
ger. They have tried this route, and in spite of several
English cruisers, the troops have successively arrived. At
the time the Castile regiment was taken, there was in the
island only the regiment of Toria, of about seven or eight
hundred men capable of taking the field, and a battalion of
a thousand or eleven hundred men, rangers of Catalonia,
almost entirely composed of recruits drawn out of prisons.
or sent into the regiment as vagabonds. The importance
of the island of Minorca required that the garrison should
be composed of well-disciplined troops, and not of soldiers
whose inexperience made them of no service, and whose
morals at the same time were not such as to inspire any de-
gree of confidence. By the attention of the commander
and officers to perfect this corps, it is now sufficiently disci-
plined, and is kept in very excellenfcondition. Pressed by
the fear of the danger, thev hasted to put Ciutadella, if not
in a state to sustain a regular siege, at least capable of re-
sistance in case of a coup de main, and to keep sufficient

MILITARY WOnKS. 89

force to be able to send succours to the oilier points of. the
island. They are repairing, though imperfectly the for-
tifications, and have placed in butteries on the bastions
fourteen pieces of eighteen and twenty-four pounders, and
two mortars. The garrison, which scarcely amounted to
fifty men, was increased to four hundred. They bad pur-
posed to form a small fortified camp under the walls of
Ciutadella, which would have protected the fire of the
place. This camp was to serve as a retreat in case the
troops should be obliged to go out of the city ; and in this
camp they proposed keeping the chief part of the stores and
provisions. The o.\en, sheep, horses, and mules designed
to transport the baggage, and ammunition, and for the
service of the artillery of the field. Happily this extrava-
gant plan was not adopted. It was easy to judge that this
camp would have been taken without any trouble, or sur-
rounded and compelled by famine to capitulate.

Since the demolition of the famous Fort St. Phillipe, they
seem to have entirely given up any endeavour to make de-
fence in the island by walls and ramparts. The works
raised by the English, at the entrance of the port of Ma-
hon, were nothing buta fortified line ; all the batteries of
which could only serve to hinder or retard any entrance
into the port. They had preserved some of the works, but
the Spaniards have so destroyed them, that the little fortifi-
cations which remain are only a few batteries.

The defence of Minorca seems not to allow any other
than an open campaign, or an affair of posts.

The island is covered almost every where with little
mountains, or hills, forming between them narrow vallies,
which run to the sea-shore. The small number of plains
are intersected, in every direction with enclosures of low
walls of dry stone. At the time of hostilities, they had only
one single road by which artillery could be conveyed. This
road goes from one end of Minorca to the other ; from the
batteries of the port of Mahon as far as Ciutadella. The
Spaniards have now made two others ; the one from the
city of Mahon, which reaches beyond the village St. Louis,
near the sea-shore, eastward ; the other beginning at the
same point, and ending at the small bay of Mesquila., near.
Cape Mola.

The shores of the island form a great number of small
bays, or creeks, where a landing might be effected ; but to
get into the interior of Minorca, there are many difficult
ways and narrow passages, where the enemy would easily

BT. SAVVEUR.] JJ

f)0 ST. SAVVLUU'S IKAVr.r.s,

be stopt by the troops occupying the heights. The CirA
and most essential disposition for the defence of .Minorca,
i.s to place the troops in the most favourable situation- to
move with expedition to those parts of the island where the
enemy might threaten a landing. This situation is the
center of the island. The troops might be placed on Mount
Toro, at Fe*rerias, Mcrcadal and Alayor. Mount St. Aga-
tha is also a post of importance, and they would be near
enough to prevent it falling into the hands of the enemy,
i'f they should succeed in landing, and gaining ground on
this side of the island. In the course of the month of
May 1805, the Minor cans were called to arms, on an oc-
casion which served to prove the truth of this observation,
and the necessity of using telegraphs in the room of the
defective signals now em ployed. One morning a signal
was made on the coast of the island, a short distance from
CiutadeHa, of a squadron being in the offing, the ma-
noeuvres of which indicated an attempt. The intelligence,
conveyed by an order sent from CiutadeHa, did not arrive
till five o'clock in the evening. All the garrison received
orders to hold themselves in readiness to march. About
four hundred men of the regiment of Soria departed as
soon as possible for Ciutodella, where'there was at that time
only fifty men. From Mali on to is reckoned at least eight
long leagues : before these troops could have possibly ar-
rived, there is no doubt, but that the enemy would have
had time to land and possess themselves of posts, from
which it would have been very difficult to dislodge them
with troops fatigued by a long and painful march.

With the exception of three or four hundred men, of
which' number the garrison of CiutadeHa consists, fifty or
sixty at the Port Fornels, and some small detachments of
three or four men on different points of the island, the
whole of the united force of Minorca are centered at Ma-
lion, the Ravalle, and the batteries of the port; that is to
say, at one of the extremities of the island. There also are
all the field artillery, with all the ammunition and provsions.

The total force of the island, at the time of my depar-
ture, consisted of 3,100 foot soldiers or* the line, 1,500
rangers, 500 engineers and miners, and ()0 horse soldiers,
in all 5,190 men. The daily service, including the garrisons-
of CiutadeHa and Fornels, and the small detachments, em-
ploys about 700 men; the remaining 4,390, from which
may yet be deducted 300, besides those who are sick, pri-
soners, a^nd recruits, make the whole disposable force of

MILITARY STATE OF MINORCA. 9*

wi-c country 4,090 men. The troops are good and well dis-
ciplined.

Cavalry cannot be employed to advantage in a country
where there are no plains. Thus the service of the horse
soldiers is reduced to carrying orders to the several posts of
the island, and conveying the correspondence when the
couriers, coming from Majorca -and the continent, are
obliged to go into any other port than that of Mahon.
However, they have been forced to refurnish this cavalry
with, horses by a requisition from those of the islanders, as
the horses they had were unfit for service.

The island is sufficiently provided with artillen' for the
ramparts and the field. They have added a certain number
of mules, as well to convey the ammunition as for the ser-
vice of the afttflery, in which they are alternately exercised.
Minorca has received from Spain a large quantity of war-
like stores. The magazines are furnished with spare arms
and tents to encamp the troops. I pereeived, with regret,
that they neglected to make them previously acquainted
with the interior, and the different posts to be occupied in
case the enemy should succeed in advancing into the island.
Once only the governor ordered out the garrison to be re-
viewed ; the troops took the heights in :the vicinity of the
bay of Mesquita ; they placed themselves in order of battle,
and some platoon firing comprised the who? of their ma-
neeuves. This exercise, or parade, was performed in the
presence of the governor's wife and some other ladies. 1'
thought that I was rather a spectator of some holiday pro-
cession than of a military evolution.

The government of Minorca, and consequently the pre-
servation of this important island, is confided to a briga-
dier of his Majesty's forces. The present commander joins
to a high sense of honour, virtues and social qualities,
which cannot be too highly esteemed. It is to be wishedthat
this governor was invested with an authority which would
place him out of the power of interferences and oppositions
from the different administrations, which hinder and often
destroy the force of his operations.

There are four different quarters to lodge the troops at
Ciutadella : the first is built near the gate of Majorca, and
is bomb proof; it can contain three hundred foot soldiers :
the second, on" the parade can lodge an hundred and fifty
men: the third, a small distance removed, holds an hun-
dred and twenty, and the fourth, thirty cavalry.

There is no hospital but that of the city, which can re-

M 2

(jl ST. SAUVEUIt's TRAVELS.

ceive as many as two hundred sick. But at Ciutadella, and
at Mahon there are houses large enough, and the convents,
which in time of need could be made use of to lodge the
troops, and as hospitals and magazines. The English did
rot fail to make use of these resources when the island of
Minorca was the place of rendezvous, and for taking in
fresh provisions for their squadrons in the Mediterranean.

The mansion of the governor of Ciutadella is built at the
foot of a bastion which overlooks the town. It is large
enough, but very irregular. The kitchen and other oftirea
are level with the ground floor. The first story joins and
is on a level with the ramparts, which form an agreeable
promenade, from whence may be seen part of the island, a,
large extent of sea, and the island of Majorca, about ten
leagues distant. The interior of this house is. ill contrived,
and at the time I saw it, was almost without furniture.
There is a garden belonging to it on one side of the parade
surrounded with high walls; this garden has very little
care bestowed upon it, particularly now the government of
Ciutadella is given to an officer of subaltern rank, who
certainly has not the means of affording the necessary ex-
pence which a proper cultivation would require. There is
also a chapel in this hotel, but it is not used.

The principal church of Ciutadella, which is at the same
time the cathedral of the island, is built in the center of
the city; it is large, and has a square tower, terminated by
a spire of hewn stone. At a distance this octagon steeple
lias a pleasing effect in the perspective of Ciutadella. It is
said that this church was built near the time that Alphonso,
the king of Arragon made the conquest of the island, in the
year l£87. There was a cathedral church in the year 418,
under the emperor Honorius, when Ciutadella (at that time
called Jainnon, from the name of a Carthagenian general,
who was said to be the founder) was the see of St. Severus,
the bishop of Minorca. The present church was probably
built on the foundation of the first. It would be difficult
to say precisely at what epoch : above the gate of the ves-
tibule is the following inscription, dated iStk).

ACI. IHU. V. N. ET. DE. CORSA.

PREVERA. QUI. EO. OFEC1AL.

BE. MANORCA. LO QUAL.

PASSA.DE.SOA. DIDA.

AY I. DE JOLIOL. LAND.

MCCCLX. DOC. DEO. LAIA.

REFLECTIONS ON CHURQH PURIAL. 98

Tbia epitaph, informs us, that an officer employed -at Mi-
norca, whose name was John, a native of Corsica, was in-
terred in this church the I lth of July 1S60. This' monu-
ment, in other respects little interesting, serves at least to
mark an epoch of the antiquity of the cathedral of Ciuta*
dellu. On the south side of the church are a considerable
number of sculptures cut in the rock. There are many
others of the same kind without the walls of the city : these
memorials seem to me to belong to the time of the Mo s;
as the christians have for a long time been accustomed to
deposit their dead in the churches, by which it apn-ars
that the infidels had the advantage of us in both reason nd
prudence. The Christian custom, which has often been the
cause of fatal effects, is continued here through the obsti-
nate blindness of the faithful. How then can we reproach,
those who have preceded us, when we ourselves in the
nineteenth century persist in the practice of the same, ab-
surdities ? The temple where the islanders go to offer up
their prayers and praises to the Almighty, is changed into
a place infected with cadaverous exhalations. But the good
Minorcans are persuaded, that their bodies being deposited
at the foot of an altar, assures, or at least facilitates, the
entrance of their souls into the abodes of the blessed. The
kinsfolk and friends, who come to water with their tears the
stones which cover these graves, carry away but too often
the seeds of a distemper, which soon hastens them to the
same sepulchre. How many examples of sudden death may
be imputed to the opening of these pestilential repositories
of the dead. The evidence of experience has not yet pre-
vailed over ridiculous custom and mistaken credulity. Has
the poor man, to whom fortune has denied the means of
depositing his remains in the sanctuary, less right to hope
for the mercy of his God, than the rich one covered with a
marble monument, which merely transmits to posterity
his name and the date of his departure from this life? Wiil
the great man, who, under gilded roofs, has passed his days,
spun out by the hand of pleasure, days which has pro-
duced only to his fellow-creatures the sweat of the brow and
unavailing tears, will he appear before his judge with more
confidence than the unfortunate being who has eaten the
bread of bitterness in the humble hut which served to shel-
ter him from the seasons ? Forgive me reflections so fo-
reign to my subject, and which would come better from
other pens. Experience has, however, dictated regulations
■;vhich prohibit interment in the churches; ; but what laws

94 st. sauveur's travels.

will not fanaticism and money elude; 1 have witnessed a
striking instance of this truth. In a convent at Muhon, the
monks sell to the vanity as well as to the devotion of some
persons, the vaults appropriated to themselves in the cloi-
sters. These friars have thus eluded a wholesome law, by
a speculation as revolting to decency as to propriety ; and
they continue to heap carcase on carcase in their church.

The ancients caused their dead to be buried without the
walls of their cities, and in the fields; they even burnt the
bodies and preserved only the ashes. It is not among the
ruins of the temples that the sepulchres are still to be seen :
these tombs, erected by the hand of piety and of gratitude,
whereon are read the funereal inscriptions, which bring to
our recollection the heroes of antiquity, and those great
men who carried to the tomb the regret of their fellow
citizens ; " but these were pagans," is all the answer that is
to be got from these monks and fanatics.

The Augustins have a convent near to the port of Mahon;
the edifice is grand, and the chnrch is ornamented with a
dome; for the rest, there is nothing remarkable. These
monks maintain sometimes public disputations, the subject
generally as absurd as the jargon is burbarous; for example,
** Did matter exist before form, or form before matter."
This is one of the important questions they most gravely
discuss, and tl*eir conclusions are just s wise, Tua propo-
sitio non est rem, erge est falsa; what miserable logic is
rhisj

Beyond the port of Mahon is another monastery, of the
order of Saint Anthouy. These monks are rich ; their
church is small, but handsomely ornamented. The garden
is the greatest curiosity, as it is cultivated in the quarry
which supplied the stones with which the convent is built.

The Franciscans have also a monastery in the interior of
the town, near the parade. The building is large, but irre-
gular. These monks occupy themselves in the service of
the public ; they have an apothecary's shop, where they
sell to the people those drugs of which they stand in need,
and a school for the instruction of children.

At Ciutadella is a convent of nuns of St. Claire, who pass
the tedious hours in weeping for their sins; probably the
s«in of quitting the world, is that which is most seriously
repented by many of these virgins.

The city of Ciutadella contains about seven hundred
houses ; some of them are very handsome, but in general
the streets are narrow, crooked, and badly paved. There

CURIOUS GROTTO. 95

are piazzas on each side of the principal street, which, with
the cloisters or' the;convents, serve lor promenades when
the weather will not permit walking out of the city. The
district of Ciutadella may be about eleven miles in length,
and live or six in breadth. It contains nearly a hundred and
forty farms, and the total population does not exceed eight
thousand persons. In Ciutadella is the residence of the
bishop of Minorca, and the houses of most of the nobility
of the country, which are the only remains of its former
pre-eminence.

In the environs, to the north of Ciutadella are some well
cultivated gardens, which produce in abundance all sorts
of fruit and vegetables.

In the vicinity of Ciutadella is a very curious grotto,
which is generally visited by travellers. Bomare mentions
it in his Dictionary of Natural History. It is situated two
miles to the south of the city. This grotto is hollowed by
nature in the rock ; the entrance is narrow and difficult, but
it widens at once as you descend, and by the light of flam-
beaux may be discovered other smaller grottos, which all
communicate with the large one. There distils from the
roof of these grottos a water, which is so impregnated with
vitrifying matter, that it forms an infinite number of stalac-
tites of the colour of brown sugar-candy, not very transpa-
rent. These petrifactions have a thousand different forms.
There are some not thicker than the quill of a pen, while
others are of considerable size. The whole forms a number
of columns which seem to support the vaulted roof of the
grotto. One may observe the gradation and progress of
these petrifications; in many places are seen little capitals
which descend from the roof, as if to join those bases which
rise from the ground underneath, as the water petrifies
which falls from the roof in other places j the. spaces be-
tween the capitals and the bases are filled by the shafts of
the columns; some of which are regular enough, others
very imperfect, and seem to be of the gothic order : in short,
the whole forms an enormous mass of large and small pil-
lars, adhering one to the other. The floor of the cavern is
covered with petrified matter of considerable thickness ;
this curious grotto is called " La Cova Perella."

There is a neighbouring cavern containing a kind of lake
of salt water, which makes it probable, that it has some
communication with the sea.

On the way to these caverns, there is found on the sea-
shore, among the sand, a great quantity of small pieces of

9fi St. SAUYETJR's TRAVELS.

red coral. The fishermen frequenly draw up wrtri
their nets whole branches of white coral, but hardly ever
any red. Tne fragments winch are found on the shore are
probably brought thither by the waves, at those times when
the sea is rough and the wind westerly.

The Hippocampus, which the natives call the sea-horse,
is very commonly found here. The Stella marina arbo-
rescent, is al»o often found, but much damaged by beating
against the rocks.

The land in this part is barren and without any of the
istMfl productions of cultivation, but it abounds in fossils
and shells.

AP. VI If.

CLIMATE, QUALITIES, AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE LANDS.
AND COASTS OF THE I5LAND OF MINORCA.

X. HE climate of the island of Minorca is not so mild and
temperate as that of the neighbouring islands. Situated at
the mouth of the gulph of Leon, Minorca is not like Ma-
jorca sheltered by the height of the mountains ; this island
consequently experiences all the severity of the north winds,
which frequently blow with great violence. On the northern
shores of the island the power of these winds may be ob-
served,.the shores arc broken and uneven in all that part of
the isle. The trees and plants do not thrive, and all bend
or incline towards the south. In the winter, although snow
or ice is rarely seen, yet the cold is nevertheless severe, so
that it is' necessary to have fire in the apartments, and to be
warmly clothed. The autumn is the rainy season, in which
arc always successive and abundant rains. During the
spring the air is always. pure and temperate, but the heats of
summer are insupportably sultry.

The land or soil of Minorca is of several kind?, that of
the mountains and hills is blackish, fine, light, and very
fertile, though but thinly spread on the surface of the rock.
It is mixed with a great quantity of sand, which makes the
labour easier to the cultivator. The soil on the plains is not
so fertile as that of the mountains, it is cold and clayey, and
not good cither for pasture or agriculture. Nevertheless it

4

FOSSILS, MINERALS, &c 97.

produces a Quantity of different sorts of herbage, which
would be very good food for cattle, if they were not mixed
with other sorts which are acid, and which they will not
eat. Among these plants there are some which might in-
terest the curiosity and researches of a botanist. The val-
lies are fertilized by the quantity of earth which is washed
from the surrounding mountains by the rains, but these are
impoverished in the same proportion. On some of these
mountains they have raised banks or little walls of dry
stones to support the lands, leaving a free course for the
water. This method preserves their fertility. In the in-
terior of the island, on digging into the rock, the earth,
is found mixed with a great quantity of Hints and stones.
The islanders make use of them to build little walls which
form an infinite number of enclosures with which the.
island is intersected in every direction.

In the districts of Alayor and Fererias there are some
small woods of pines and green oaks, but they are stunted
in growth aud do not stand very thick.

The olives, oranges, lemons, and pomegranates Succeed
very well, and the culture of them requires but little care
or labour.

There is also found in the island a kind of clay of a grey,
colour, which on being baked, or rather burnt, becomes of
a light brown ; the inhabitants make crockery of it, such as
cups, jugs, and tiles. In some places there is a kind of
clay which is blue and yellow, of which the Minorcans
make no use.

The kind of plaister called guyscb, which I have already
mentioned, is common in many places in the island; but
the Minorcans prefer that which is brought from Majorca.
The plaister, which they distinguish by the name of perelle,
is whiter and more brittle and shining : they ttse it to clarify
their wines.

Rock crystal is rare at Minorca ; but in the district of
Alayor they very commonly find that sort of MuscovJ
glass, which encrusts the plants and vegetables.

In the district of Alayor there is a pond of stagnantwater
nearly a mile in length ; it is about three hundred, paces
from the sea. The space between forms a sandy beach,
which is sometimes entirely covered with the waves. Near
the shore is a small eminence, where most of the plants are
encrusted with a sandy substance of some thickness, the out-
side of which is greyish and brittle, and the internal part
white, and as hard as flint. The ground is strewed with a

ST. SAVVEUB.] N

J)3 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVEL8.

quantity of these encrustations, the plants which they en*
crusted having been separated, or having perished or dis-
solved by time.

In digging the earth for. stone the Minorcans discover
veins as hard as flint, which they are obliged to blow up
with gunpowder. The strata of this hard stone are gene-
rally a foot in thickness, and the deeper they dig the harder
it becomes, and is less mixed with shells and other sub-
stances, which are on the surface. As the stone is porous
aad easily penetrated by the water, they expose it to the air
some time before they make use of it.

Lime stone is common at Minorca ; it is of a light grey
colour, very hard and shining; where it has been recently
broken, it contains many echinites and other remains of
the deluge, particularly in the upper strata. It is generally
found in detached pieces dispersed in the fields, and when
these fragments are neither too many nor too large, far
from injuring the vegetation of the corn, it assists it by the
heat which it imparts.

There is a quantity of slate at Minorca, particularly on
the side of Cape Mola, which would facilitate the con-
veyance of it, if the Minorcans did not prefer the use of
tiles. This slate is smooth, shining, and of a bluish colour,
with veins of white. It has a number of perpendicular
fissures, which divide it into masses of a convenient size for
use.

Marble of different qualities is found at Minorca; hut
the islanders take no account of it.

There is neither fire-stone nor chalk in the island; the
Minorcans have the first from other countries, and instead
of the last they adopt the marking stone from Naples, which
taylors use, but bricklayers and carpenters make use «f a
black or red stone to mark their work.

In most places of the island iron ore is found on the sur-
face of the earth, in pieces of six or eight inches diameter.
The Minorcans make not the least use of it, whether be-
cause it is not fit to make iron alone, or that they are igno-
rant what use to make of it, or whether the want of wood
compels them to give up this branch of industry.

There are also lead mines at Minorca; but working them
does not appear likely to defray the necessary expences.

Sea shells are often found in the earth, and even petri-
fied fish. The Minorcims give the name of glossopetres to
some teeth of large fish, such as sharks; they are commonly
found in the quarries.
5

MINORCAN AGRICULTURE. 99

. It is not rare to find some of the stones called toad-stones.
The islanders value them much, and set them in lings and
buttons.

There are also many kinds of fossils and petrifactions.
The island of Minorca produces variety of vegetables for
the table, and abundance of physical herbs and plants.

Wheat and barley are the only sorts of grain which are
sown in the island, but the produce is not sufficient for the
consumption of the inhabitants; they have a sraaJl quan-
tity of Turkish corn, which is cultivated in the environs of
the farms. The harvest generally begins in the middle of
June. When the corn is ripening, the fields are watched by
young boys and girls, who by hallooing, or by the noise
they make by beating their hand with slit reeds, endeavour
to frighten away the small birds, and prevent them eating
the corn. This was a custom in the time of the Romans:
Virgil, in his first book of the Georgics, makes it a precept:
Ei son it u terribis aves. The general produce is six for one,
or at most, nine for one, which is reckoned an abundant
harvest. They tread out the corn in places prepared for
that purpose, with horses or mules two or four abreast. It
is then winnowed : they 'carefully gather up the straw ; cut
it very small, and mix it with a little barley ; this serves as
food for horses, mules, and asses.

To manure the land they use the dung and litter of the»-
cattle, mixed with the sweepings of the houses.

The produce of wine, both red and white, is more than
sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants; it is of a
very good quality. I have drunk of five or six years old,
some which equalled best Burgundy wines: hence they
cultivate the vine with peculiar care.

The olive tree flourishes in every part of the island, and
the husbandman leaves it almost entirely to. the care of na-
ture. The islanders obtain but little oil from their olives,
they pretend that they are dried up by the north winds;
they preserve them for use, but the preparation is so defec-
tive that a stranger can never eat them with any pleasure.

The Minorcans have plenty of several sorts of fruit;
oranges, lemons, and pomegranates arrive to great perfection,
and some sorts of apples, which are very good ; they have ex-
cellent pears bath in summer and winter. The island also
produces fig-trees, the.fruit is very good. The red mulberry-
tree is the only one which is cultivated., but the white would
thrive equally well. - Walnuts and chesnuts are very scarce.

There are some palm-trees, but they are only in use as

100 ST. sauveur's travels.

being ornamental, the fruit never comes to any degree of
perfection.

They have roots and vegetables in abundance of every
kind, the beans, peas, onions, kidney beans, and cauli-
flowers, are excellent ; the broccoli is also very good, as are
the endive, pompions, and tomatoes. The spinach, car-
rots, and parsnips have but little flavour, the turnips are
hard and stringy, and are but seldom used, the lettuces are
tasteless, they generally mix them with cresses. The dan-
delion is very common in the spring, but it has an unplea-
sant bitterness. The Mjnorcans use an amazing quantity
of pepper.

The water melons, which are in season at the end of June,
when the heat is most powerful, are succulent and very re-
freshing; and whatever quantity is eaten, they very seldom
occasion any disagreeable sensation or illness : at every turn
you meet children sucking a slice of melon ; these melons
last till the middle of October.

The leeks of Minorca are much esteemed, and there is an
abundance of thyme, hyssop, marjoram, sage, parsley, sa-
voury, marygold, mint, beet, and sorrel ; this last is not
much in use among the Minorcans. Their cucumbers are
larger and better than ours. They have only wild aspara-
gus, which has a disagreeable taste. The rosemary and
wormwood grows naturally among the rocks, there are
also quantities of sea fennel and other medicinal herbs.

Almost all the old walls are covered with caper trees, and
capers seasoned with vinegar and salt, are much used in the
kitchens of the Minorcans.

It is in vain to expect or look for any taste or regularity
jn the gardens, utility alone is attended to, and no part is
devoted to pleasure or beauty.

The honey of Minorca is in great esteem, but the quan-
tity is not sufficient to make it an article of commerce, the
inhabitants pieserve the surplus of their own consumption,
to send as presents to their distant friends.

The island supports near sixteen hundred beasts of bur-
den, horses, mules, and asses.

The number of horned cattle is about six or seven thou-
sand.

The flocks of sheep, goats, &c. amount to forty or forty-
£ve thousand, besides ten thousand swine.

The number of horses is not great, and the inhabitants
do not endeavour to increase them, as their feed is more

ANIMALS OF MINORCA. 101

expensive, and their service less than that of the mules and
asses, which are for this reason preferred.

The mules are strong and will feed on any thing they find
in their way, and may be kept in good condition with very-
little care. These animals are very sure footed, and possess
surprizing sagacity. One may see them sometimes with a
rider on their backs, gallop up a steep mountain, or run
along the edge of a precipice. They are mostly very vi-
cious; and often chuse the worst roads, and scrub the walls
as they go with the legs of the rider; whom, if by chance,
he let loose the bridle or stirrups, they make every effort
to throw from their backs. These animals will sometimes
live forty years.

The asses are also very strong, and serve equally well to
ride as to cany loads. It is not unusual to meet parties of
men and women riding on asses, harnessed with great neat-*
ness, I had almost said splendour.

The oxen and cows are small and lean, which is occa-
sioned by the want of pasturage, and the custom of leaving
them continually in the fields exposed to the weather. Cows*
milk is scarce and almost all used for cheese, which ;s
very good. Some few individuals make a small quantity
of butter, but it is entirely for their own use.

The sheep and goats are likewise small^ind lean, the goats'
rnilk is in general use. The mutton is not very good.

The swine are very large and very fat, they are kept,
during the autumn, in the woods, where they feed on the
acorns, afterwards they are confined and fed on barley.
Pork is in the same esteem with the Minorcans as with the
Mojorcans.

There are no beasts of prey in Minorca.

H:ires are very scarce, but there are great plenty of
rabbits. There are a great number of hedgehogs, which
the Spaniards eat without any dislike.' I have also -een
some land tortoises.

The lizards are in swarms; when the weather is fine the
walls are covered with them, and they often make their way
into the apartments.

The adder and viper are the only kind of serpents which
are found in the island, but there are scorpions whose sting
is dangerous; they are generally found in the wood piles.

The centipedes appear the moment the caudles are light-
ed, and make their' retreat at the break of day ; it is said
their sting is venomous like the scorpions. The Minorcans
always keep in the house vials of oil, ia which, some of

102 sit- sauveur's travels.

these creatures are infused, they believe this oil to be a
specific.

There are many sorts of spiders, whose bite is said to be
venomous.

Among the birds there is no particularity. There are a
few eagles who build their nests in the most inaccessible
places in the mountains. There are also some falcons and
a great number of owls. The swalldws and martins are nu-
merous in summer. Red partridges are plenty, they are
excellent till after the harvest, but at that time they begin
to eat the wild garlic, and the berry of the mastic tree,
which gives them a disagreeable flavour. /The quails are
very fat in the hunting season. The thrush is ttxcellenl.
The blackbird, starling, lark, and particularly the sparrow,
are very common.

The wild pigeons make their nests in the hollow places
of the rocks, the young ones are only eaten ; there are alsa
a number of black and white ring-doves. Woodcocks,
snipes, wild ducks, and teal, are very plenty through the
■whole of the winter. v

The coasts of Minorca abound with fish of different qua-
lities. The markets are well supplied the year round. Fish
is one of the chief articles of the food of the Minorcan*,
who in general eat but little butchers' meat.

The gold fish is excellent, and very common.

During the summer the coasts swarm with anchovies;
this abundance of a kind of fish, which in other places pro-
duce an amazing profit, might become a great article of ex-
portation, if the Minorcans knew, or were willing to learn,
the simple art of salting them ; but they content themselves
•with eating these fish fresh. Plaice, soals, barbel, floun-
ders, and tuibot, are not in such plenty ; but lampreys,
congers, and eels abound, and are excellent.

In summer, there are a considerable number of sardinias,
which the islanders eat fresh ; they are unacquainted with
the method of salting them.

The ponds contain excellent mullet of an extraordinary
size; the Minorcans salt the spawn of the female, and af-
terwards dry them; this preparation, which they call bo~
targo, they eat to create an appetite. The rock-fish, which
is found among the rocks on the coast, particularly at the
Port of Mahon, has a delicate flavour : this fish is seldom
above six or eight inches in length, the body is striped with
blue, red, and green, in beautiful shades. The cuttle-fish
abounds on the shores of Minorca; the bones are useibv

PITHIUSIAN ISLES. 10$

the goldsmiths and apothecaries ; the black it affords, which
may be easily diluted in water, might be used instead of
bistre, and even in the place of China ink.

Among the shell-fish, the cray-fish is distingushed for
its size and flavour; shrimps and crabs are rather scarce.
The fish called Bernard the hermit, is one of those which is
most esteemed. The sea hedge-hog is the kind of shell-
fish most frequently found ; it abounds on the rocks,
and the Minorcans eat it in astonishing quantities. Of
small shells, the most common are muscles, cockles, the
Conchae veneris, and the Nerita>«« species of oyster. The
Hautulus is often found, but its shell is so fine that it often
breaks at the touch. The Pinna magna is not scarce: it
has within its shell the same brilliancy as mother of pearl,
but it is on the outside rough and covered with prickles.
The Pinna parva is also found here, the surface of which
is very shining. I have already mentioned the star-fish and
oysters. *

CHAP. IX.

SITUATION, EXTENT, COAST, AND ANCHORAGE OF THE
PITII1USIAN ISLES.

X HE isle of Ivica is the most considerable of the Pithi-

uses, and is in most parts high, full of mountains and hil-
locks of a pleasing appearance, interspersed with beautiful
and fertile vallies.

The principal ports are those of Ivica to the S. E. of the
island, and Porto Magno, or Saint Anthony, to the N. W.

There are innumerable small bays, roadsteads, and lesser
isles on the coasts of the Pithiuses ; a description of which
would be of but little interest to the general reader, or in-
deed to any but those who might desire to have a know-
ledge of the pilotage.

The isle of Formentera is situated to the south of that of
Ivica, from which it is separated by a strait of two miles
and a half in width. This island is not of any elevation;
it is nearly eght miles in length from east to west, and
about as many in width from north to south. It is in lati-
tude 38° 40' 30" and in longitude 7° 35' 27" east,, from th*
Royal. Observatory at Cadiz.

104 ST. SAUVEUR/S TRAVER.S.

The remarkable capes and points of Formentera are Es-»
palmader, Prima, and La Mola, which form the east coast
or* the island, and the points Anguila, Gavina, and Capa
Berberra.

Ivica is the largest and best peopled of the Pilhiusian
Isles, and was called by the ancients Ebusus. It runs N. E.
and S. YV. being in the form of a pentagon; its greatest
extent is seven leagues, by three and a half in width ; Ivica
is to the north of Formentera two long miles. The latitude
of Ivica is 38° 53' 16" north, and 7° 38' 12' east, from the
Iloyal Observatory at Cadiz.

This island is divided into five parts, which the inhabi-
tants call quartons, that is to say La Plaine de la Ville,
Saint Eulalio, Balanzat, Pormany, and the Salines, or salt-
pits.

La Plaine de la Ville is the principal quarter, and has
Ivica for its capital, which is at the same time the see of a
bishop. The other quartons surround this, the territory of
whioh occupies a league and a half; Ivica is situated to
the south, under the cannon of a small fortress, built on a
hill, of the time of Charles the Fifth, and repaired in the
reiarn of Ferdinand the Sixth. This fortress is of little im-
portance; the works of which it is composed are nothing
more than some bastions and covert ways, without any
moat. The interior contains about two hundred houses, in-
habited by nearly nine hundred islanders; the cathedral,
six churches, a convent, and barracks for two battalions. At
the sallyport of the fortress to the east, is the suburb, or the
aravalle, of about four hundred and twenty houses, and
from seventeen to eighteen hundred inhabitants.

The most esteemed of the ancient authors are divided in
their opinions as to the foundation of Ivica, some of them
attribute it to the Phoenicians, but the greater part of them
to the Carthagenians, and place that epoch about one hun-
dred and seventy years after the foundation of Carthage.
The sterility of the soil obtained it the name of Ebusus,
which, in the punic tongue, signifies unfruitful.

The Port of Ivica is the principal one of the island ; it is
large, commodious, and sheltered on every side. The little
island of Formentera, which is close to it, defends it against
the south-west and southern winds. The island Plane, ne;.r
the coast, protects it from the east and south-east, and the
heights of the hills which surround it, shelter it from every
other.

TUe anchorage has good holding ground, but it is neees-

TOPOGRAPHICAL KE^ARfcS. 10S

«arv to clear the bottom, which fills up insensibly, and i-s
much hurt by the quantities of ballast thrown from the
vessels that come to take salt. This abuse will in time de-
stroy the anchorage at Ivica. The bottom is sandy, and,
with the greatest ease, thc.pdrt might be made one of the
best in the Mediterranean.

Besides the capital, this quartori contains about two hun-
dred habitations, forming different small hamlets, of which
the population may be nine hundred souls. Ivica furnishes
for its defence a company of 120 men, commanded by a
captain.

The road of Ivica is delightfully pleasant, and is bordered
on each side with vineyards and gardens..

The coasts of this quarton begins at Cape Artdreus, and
terminates with the Bay Quifeu.

The district of Saint Eulalie comprises Ivica and Balan-
zat, and is four leagues in extent. The number of houses
is at least seven hundred, separated one from the other,
and not forming a town or village. There are two churches.
The population amounts to nearly four thousand souls, and
the militia consists of seven hundred men, commanded by
different captain's.

The territory of Balanzat is nearly three leagues in extent,
and joins Pormanie, Saint Eulalie, and Ivica. There is k
church. The number of the inhabitants may be 2,300,
occupying 400 houses; the military force of Balanzat con-
sists of a company of 300 men. The space between the
port of Balanzat and Ping de Nono joins the side of this
quarton.

The district of Pormanie joins that of Balanzat, the SalineS
and Ivica; its territory is about four leagues in extent; h
is chiefly mountainous, but incloses a most fertile plaiu ; it
bas four hundred and fifty habitations, containing two
thousand one hundred islanders, three hundred and fifty,
of whom ale enrolled for the defence of the country.

The quarton des Salines, which owes its name to the
quantity of salt it produces, comprises Pormanie and Ivica.
Its territory is only two leagues in extent ; its population
amounts to about nine hundred souls, and the number of
the habitations are two hundred. A company of two hun-
dred men is kept for its defence. To the south of the Sa-
lines there is a handsome plain, where the parish church is
situated.

A strait of two miles separates the island of Formentera
from that of Ivica. The ancients distinguished it by the

ST; SAUVEUR.] O

106 ST. SAUVEUR'S TRAVEf.S.

name of Pithiuses Minor. The name of Formentera, which
it bears at present, seems to be derived from the consider-
able quantity of corn which is produced on this little
island. It runs east and west; its greatest length is three
leagues, but in width it is very irregular, varying from two
leagues to one, and being not more than three gun-shots
wide in the narrowest part. Its population amounts to
twelve hundred islanders, whose habitations are scattered
over the face of the country. ,

The anonymous author of a manuscript, in the yeat
]6'20, on the History of the Pithiusian Isles, in speaking of
the Port Sali, observes, that that spot would be very pro-
per whereon to build a city : there is t.tone and wood at
hand. It should seem, in judging by the ruins which are
still to be seen, and by the number of wells, that there was
a town in existence in the time of the Romans. The same
author observing, that at low water the strait could hi:
passed over on foot, is of opinion that it could be easy to
re-unite these two islands by filling up this passage. The
considerable depth of water in the strait would, however,
always present numerous difficulties to the undertaking,
which, if surmounted, would have no other effect than to
shut up, without any benefit, one of the passes of the Port
of Ivica.

The climate of the Pithiuses is soft and salubrious during
the summer; the breeze from the sea tempers the heat, and
the cold in winter is moderate. As a proof of the excel-
lence of the climate of these islands, they adduce the cir-
cumstance of their not having any venomous animals : it
has been remarked, that those even which have been brought
thither have lived but a short time. Itappears to me, that
this property may be more justly attributed to the quality
of the earth, of which were made the celebrated vases of
the ancient inhabitants of the Pithiuses. This opinion is
strengthened by observing, that on the coast of Valence,
that is to say in the same climate, another island is filled
with serpents and venomous animuls; from which the an-
cients named it Ophuisa, and the moderns still denominate
it Moncalobrer.

The land is in general mountainous and woody; it U
capable of any cultivation, but particularly for olives. Thr;
* shelving of the hills presents an aspect the most favour-
able of any for the vine.

These islands prodnee a quantity of corn, wine, and oils,
considerably more than serves for the consumption of the

INHABITANTS OF THE PITIITUSES. 107

island. The harvest of these articles could be easily made
more abundant : the ambition of the islanders, who are of
an indolent habit, and possessing little knowledge of the
art of cultivation, is satisfied with a produce, the result of
the natural richness of the soil, with as little labour as
possible.

The flocks of the larger and smaller kinds of cattle are
sufficiently numerous for the consumption of the islanders,
but the number and quality of the horses, mules, and other
beasts of burden, does not answer to the abundance and
excellence of the pasturage.

Game is very plentiful in the Pithiusian isles; and
there is fouud, about a pond in the island of Formenlera,
a kind of pheasant, remarkable for the beauty and variety
of its plumage.

The coasts abound with fish, of a fine and delicate fla-
vour.

The islanders are supplied with a great quantity of fruits
and vegetables from their gardens; among the first the al-
monds and figs are admired for their quality, and among
the second, the water melons are much in esteem.

The produce of flax and hemp is sufficient for the con-
sumption of the island.

Salt is the principal article of wealth to the Pithiusians :
it is collected in the month of August, and yields, in com-
mon years, from CO to 25,000 modines, of fifteen pounds
the modine, which make the amount of one hundred and
seventy-five thousand pounds. The salt is conveyed on the
backs of mules, to three different points of the coast, whi-
ther the merchant vessels come to freight with that com-
modity.

The inhabitants of the Pithiuses are in general of middle
size, and active ; their complexion is swarthy; they have a
great deal of mildness in their character ; are good seamen,
and occupy themselves principally in navigation. There
may sometimes be counted in the port of Ivica as many as
sixty xebecks of different burthens.

The islanders have the reputation of being brave, and
have more than once evinced their valour against the Bar-
bary corsairs. Their language and costume is, with very
little variation, the same as with the Balearians.

\\ ith the means of competence preseuted b}' the excel-
lency of the soil, one is astonished at the state of poverty
of the Ivicans. To the most estimable qualities they unite
an indolence, and inconceivable aversion for labour : they

O <*

-08 {ST. 5AUT?UR'S TRAVELS.

carry their indifference for agriculture to trie length of cul-
tivating only as much ground as will serve for their indi-
vidual wants; but, littie advanced in the art of culture, they
abide obstinately by their old habits, and oppose them-
selves to every improvement which may be strange to them,
or differ from the method to which they have been accus-
tomed.

I have been made acquainted with the fact, that a Valen-
tian, who came there to settle at lvica, had began to till a
piece of ground, to cultivate various productions according
to the manner of his country ; but his neighbours gaye him
a hint to proceed no farther in his work, and even threatened,
his life, lor introducing innovations in the customs of the
island. Nature is alone at the whole cost of supplying the
Ivicans with food. There may every where be seen plots
of ground, of the most excellent quality, entirely fallow.
The olive trees grow and give their increase without any
assistance from the cultivator ; the vine is not more at-
tended; the oil and the wine are made with so little care,
and b}' such imperfect methods, that the islanders do not
realize more than one half of the produce. A governor of
lvica tried the experiment of planting some mulberry tree?
in the island, and of introducing the art of breeding silk-
worms. The trial succeeded : they produced specimens of
silk of the finest and most beautiful kind ; but this new
branch of wealth, was presently lost by the extreme apathy
of the islanders.

The Ivicans are acquainted only with those arts which,
are of the first necessity; the chief object of which is to
guard them from the injuries cf the weather. Their habi-
tations are without ornament, and their dress unseemly.
7'hose of the islanders who enjoy easy fortunes, procure all
their articles of comfort and convenience from Spain and
the Baiearics. The good Ivicans arc certainly untainted by
the poison of luxury. In travelling over the island, the
stranger fancies himself in a country where civilization had
not yet readied. There js scarcely one passable road, with
the exception of those which are neighbouring on the dif-
ferent settlements, or which lead to the points of the coast
where the vessels take their lading of salt.

[ 109 3

CHAP. X.

CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE INHABI-
TANTS OF THE BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS.

XVxOST travellers form their opinions .of 'he people of a
poiintry, and affirm decidedly on their character and man-
ners, according to what they observe most striking in the
external customs in those towns through which they hitve
passed ; and their judgment is often influenced by their re- .
ception at particular houses. In the iirst case, we cannot
depend on observations so lightly founded ; and in the
second, one may always perceive either a sentiment of gra-
titude, or the impression of some dislike. It is not gene-
rally in towns and cities that acquaintance with strangers is
most easily made, and the national character developed ia
a manner to be depended on by the unprejudiced observer;
but as the traveller draws nearer the simple inhabitant of
the country, follows him into the bosom of his family, in
his labours, and is with him in his national and religious
festivals ; he will then become more accurately acquainted
with the real character and manners of the people, unso-
phisticated with the vices and customs of cities.

We are equally deceived, in supposing that it is possible
Xo obtain a knowledge of the genius and character of a peo-
ple from the systems of the philosophers. The disciples of
Plato, in attributing these diversities to the influence of the
stars and the climate, never take infcp consideration the
nature of the government, and the mode of education, as
a secondary cause. The stars, no doubt, have an influence
on man, but do not govern or determine his actions;
he does not owe to them the lights of reason, and his will
is ever free. If it were not so, what merit would he have
in the practice of virtue, or how could he be condemned
for his vices. Can we admit the fabulous system of the
destinies, or put any faith in the extravagancies of the judi-
cial astrology of the impostors of every age.

We may admit that the climate has some influence on
the Operation's of the mind, as far as the mind participates
in the organic affections of the body, and the vibration of
the fibres, and has an effect more or less on the circulation

ilO st. sauveur's travels.

of the blood ; but to believe it the first and absolute cause
of the genius and character of a people, seems to me to be
a paradox. Do we not see nations, living under the same
climate, of very different talents and disposition ? And do
we not also find a perfect uniformity in other nations en-
tirely dissimilar. In the same topographical point on the
globe, the borders of the Oroonoko are covered with small
nations, the diversity of whose genius and character is
very striking. There the traveller finds himself among a
people who are lively, humane, and loyal ; and eats with
them the sweet fruit of the plantane and the date tree.
There is another nation rude, warlike, ferocious, and un-
governable; who offer him as food the flesh, and for drink,
the blood of a human creature like himself. A little farther
are people whose women are martial and eloquent, and who
give laws to the men, who arc taciturn and indolent.

Another nation presents the spectacle of nature debased
Almost to a level with the brute creation, in a people who
feed on the very earth,, or on a kind of paste, of which earth
forms a chief part. And again, a little distant are another
race, so stupidly credulous in the skill of their physicians,
that all the goods of the sick are left at their mercy> whether
they kill or cure their patients, and the indifference and in-
sensibility of these people is so extreme, that they place
■under the netting where their sick relative or friend is lain,
his share of the provisions, without caring whether he takes
them or not. Such are the observations which we find in
the history of Oroonoko by Guruilla.

In producing the examples of savage nations, I wished to
omit nothing which could determine whether climate has
the influence attributed to it. Let us carry our observations
to the civilized nations of Europe, and we shall often *ee a
great similarity of genius and character, between nations
under very different temperatures; let us observe the
Flemings or Braban<jons, and we shall find among them,
the habits, the inclinations, the civil and religious customs
of the Spaniards, and yet how different is the temperature.
Fn vain has Madden, in his first volume of the Critical History
of Spain, wasted so much erudition to prove the preponde-
rate influence of the climate. Wc reject the opinion that
the movements of tbe soul are directed by the air, and fol-
low the impressions of heat apd cold like a barometer.

The religion and political government of a people are the
chief causes which give to the national genius its .impulse,
its form, and character. With ever so little knowledge of
5

ON THE INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. Ill

history, one may be convinced of this truth. Among the
pagans we see the people barbarous, unpolished and super-
stitious, giving themselves up to their passions without re-
straint. The propagation of the gospel brought men back
to the love of truth, and of the social virtues; the people
became moderate, just, and humane. After religion, the
laws, and government, with the example of those above
them, have the most decisive and powerful influence. The
Romans, in the reign of Augustus, were invincible; in that
of Claudius, indolent and easily conquered; with Nero,
cruel; and with Vitcllus, vicious ; they were just, merciful,
and benevolent, from the examples of the Vcspasians and of
Titus. Without going back to so remote a period, let us
consider the times in which we ourselves live. Is it the in-
fluence of the climate, which has, of people the most gene-
rous, the most humane, the bravest, and the most civilized,
made at once a nation, whose excesses, crimes, and follies
have astonished and shocked all Europe. Among savage
people, who live under the same climate, the variety of dis-
positions and of character may be attributed to the want of
an established religion, for Which they substitute the deli-
riums of their own imaginations, and to the want of whole-
some laws, not knowing any but those of force, nor having
to their actions any other guide than their own personal in-
terests.

National genius naturally follows the changes of the re-
ligion and of the government. The present Greeks, under
the Ottoman dominion, are only ignorant; superstitious, and
contemptible people, while their ancestors were illustrious
in the arts and sciences, and deservedly celebrated both iu
the times of peace and war.

When religion and the form of government remain
without any changes, the national character also continues
without alteration; thus the inhabitants of the Baleares, pro-
cessing the same religion, and subject to the same laws as
the rest of the kingdom of Spain, have necessarily the same
character, with some little difference, which is the result of
a subjection to the Moors, that lasted above five hundred
years ; these shades of character disappeared on the conti-
nent, in consequence of easy and frequent communica-
tions with other nations.

Strabo, Diodorus Siculus, and all the historians who
have preserved to us the memory of the ancient inhabi-
tants of the Baleares, agree in depicting them as a brave,
warlike people, who were extremely expert in the use of the

112 St. SAfcVEUlt's TRAVfetS.

sling. Some difference, however, may be observed in these
two authors; butlt must be admitted that Diodorus, in speak-
ing of the inhabitants of these islands, refers to an epoch
anterior to their civilization. Strab'6 on tlie contrary de-
picts the people who inhabited the Baleares in his time.
They lived, according to this writer, in perpetual peace, and
in uninterrupted prosperity. Thus he calls them Irenics, ot
Pacific, not that these people were indolent or effeminate,
for they always proved the contrary, and distinguished
themselves by their courage and valour, when their ene-
mies compelled them to take up arms.

Diodorus paints these islanders in such dismal colours,
that it is with reluctance we copy the picture: " There are
'• some other islands, says this writer, in front of Iberia,
tf called by the Greeks, gj-mnasics, because the inhabitants
" wear no clothes in summer. Tliey are much given to
" wine, which the island does not produce, and as they
4t have no olive oil, they grease or anoint themselves with
.*' that of the lentisk or mastic tree, or with hog's grease.
* They are so fond of women, that they will give three or
*' four men in exchange for one : they live in caverns of
*' the rocks, and so far from making use of gold or silver,
" they will not suffer it to be tyken from the island by
*' others ; they affirm that these metals were the cause of
" the death of Geryon, killed by Hercules. When they
" went to war with the Carthagehians, with whom they
f* were allied, they took their pay in wine and women.
H hi their marriages the relations and friends enjoyed them-
tc selves with the bride while the husband got drunk. They
*c cut the bodies of their dead into pieces, and deposited
" them in urns, on which they placed great stones."

The historian Dameto, fearing that the account given by
Diodorus might leave a kind of stain or blemish on the cha-
racter of his fellow citizens, and not being able to urge a
better defence, or rather paying no attention to the remold
epoch to which the Sicilian historian alluded, accuses him
at once of deception. But of what import is it in the pre-
sent days, particularly to the inhabitants of the Baleares,
that their ancestors in the earliest times abandoned them-
selves to vices that their p«reterity are far from .imitating ?
or that when they were incommoded by the heat, they
•wore no kind of raiment; are their descendants On this ac-
count the worse clothed ?

For my p;ut, I found among the Majorcans many estimable
qualities; they shew great respect to strangers, who may,

RUSTIC AMUSfeiifcNTS. 113

without feor, travel by night or by day through the country ;
and even among the mountains, and in the most solitary
places. The most hospitable reception is given to the tra-
veller ; and in accepting the civilities of the good peasantry,
he is in doubt on which side the obligation lies.

Besides the amusements of the theatre, the Majorcan*
have some particular festivals. The carnival is spent in
balls and masquerades, which are given in tlie great hall of
the exchange.

From the festival of St. John to the month of September
the streets of the city of Pal ma present every evening suc-
cessively a most lively scene. All the inhabitants of the1
quarter pique themselves on decorating the fronts of their
houses with pictures and draperies, and their doors and win-
dows witli glass lamps of various colours. Musicians from
the bands belonging to the garrison, placed on an amphi-
theatre, play country dances, which are tripped to gaily and-
correctly by the young and active. Each side of the street
is furnished with chairs for the spectators, little cakes, li-
queurs, and other refreshments are carried round and sold
in the assembly, and the amusements continue till day-
light.

On the twentieth of August they hold a fair for cattle in,
a large plain, about two leagues from Palma, near an abbey
oi- Bernardine monks. The people go thither in crowds,
every kind of conveyance is engaged, even to the carts,"
which are hired at a dear rate. The plain is covered with
little shops or booths, where in the midst of bleating flocks
are groups of young people sitting on ihe grass, under the
shade of aft olive tree, e.ijo -. ing a rural repast; at a little
distance is another party dancing to the sound of rustic mu-
sic. If a stranger appear, he is pressed to join in the festi-
vity and partake of the feast, and they are delighted if he
accept the invitation.

On the festival of the patron saint they have, in the vil-
lages, horse races, and other races of asses and mules;
young lads, and even lasses, dispute the prize of agility; a
large plain is the scene where these sports are exhibited ; an
old man with a wand in his hand keeps good order, and de-
crees the prize to the victor ; the men are rewarded with a
couple of fowls, &c. and sometimes the prizes are horse
shoes ; the young girls who are victorious carry home to
their mothers an Indian Kebozillo. How real is the en-
joyment of these happy peasants; what purity and simplicity
in their manners ?

ST. SAUVKUR.] P

IH st, sauveur's travels.

In all the festivals at which the people meet together in
crowds there are never any quarrels nor disturbances ; a per-
fect harmony prevails, that at once delights and astonishes
the traveller. During the whole or* the time that I lived
among these islanders, I never knew of any one of them
being found guilty of crimes that deserved condign punish-
ment. The thefts and outrages were always committed by
foreigners. In the city the same mildness of character is
pbservable, but is unhappily mixed with an iqterestedness
and avarice, strongly marked. There is also to be noticed
a strong tint of vanity among persons of a distinguished
pank, who acknowledge no superior, and among those me-
chanics who fancy they have attained the utmost perfection
in the art they profess : question any workman, before he
answers, he will ask you if at London or Paris they execute
any work as well as at Minorca; if you tell him that the
superiority is on the side of the English or French, he bursts
into a horse laugh and seems to pity your ignorance. Never-
theless it cannot be denied that the Majorcans have genius,
with a ready conception, and talents for the arts and
sciences.

The Minorcans in old times have always shared the repu>
tation pf courage and skill in the use of the sling, with the
"Majorcans. In the present day these islanders are reproach-
ed with a sort of apathy and indolepce which they have con-:
traded by the continual changes in different governments,
tp which they have been subject. The fear of having new
masters makes no sort of impression qn them. They re-
ceiye with docility, I had almost said with indifference, the
laws which are prescribed them. Content to live in a state
of mediocrity, they only desire to maintain their repose.
They take very little interest in political events, and always
*hew q, decided repugnance when they leave their native
place, to enroll themselves under the colours of the sove-
reign. If, in the time when tb,e English were their masters,
they shewed a sort' of activity, it was confined to a small
number of speculators and seafaring people, who enriched
themselves without much trouble, by enterprises confined
to, the coasts of the islands, and those of the continent of
hpam. 'the remainder of the inhabitants preserved their
natural indolence. When they were subject to Spain there
v,ere no Minorcau vessels fitted out, the facility of cruising
v, as no longer the same, on the contrary there were dangers
which they had no wish to encounter, and fame alone could
:. * icconipcncQ a people who seemed so little sensible of

rcSTlVlTlES OF THE MINORCA NS'."' Il3

its value. A MinorCan is easily dazzled by the smallest de-
gree of success; prosperity does not produce in him emula-
tion, but pride and arrogance. These islanders are at the
Same time veTy envious one of another, ira'scible, given to
hatred and revenge, and practising all sorts of shuffling
tricks, in short, they have all the defects of people of weak
minds, and Or characters without energy. The distance
that is maintained between the different classes of people
is very striking. The noble thinks himself very much above
the merchant, and those employed in the merchant-service;
■while these in their turn affect a great superiority towards
the mechanic and the countryman.

The Minorcans live very retired ; they, however, give
the stranger an hospitable reception, and seem to see hitri
with pleasure, but in reality all their attentions are only for
the moment, and they encourage no particular intimacy ;
their habitations are the residences of tranquillity and soli-
tude; their festivals have the same character with them-
selves. At the carnival they, dress in masquerade in the
evenings, and go to the houses of their friends and rela-
tions, where they dance to the sound of a guitar or wretched
Violin. During the evenings of the summer we Often see
groups of men and women in the streets, and in the centre
of each group, a man and woman, who in an awkward man-
ner imitate the Spanish fandango, while the whole of the
orchestra consists of a guitar, upon which any one who
pleases may play, though he knows little more of the science
than running his fingers over the strings. A lamp hung
over the door of the house where this group are entertained,

fives light to the joyous assembly. Every one who chnses
ances in his turn, and pays a trifling sum. And the ball
always concludes with the most noisy acclamations.

St. John's day is celebrated by races of horses, mules,
and asses, which take place in one of the principal streets
of the town. The competitors are of the common people,
who are extremely delighted if they win a small silver spuou,
or some other trifle, as a prize in these games.
1 The mariners keep the feast of St. Peter by boat races in
the port; those who are first in receive the prize, which i>.
a hat ornamented with a coloured ribbon. These spectacles
attract a croud of the inhabitants, who all seem to take ar
great interest in the performance.

The Minorcans are generally superstitious, and much at-
tached to their religious ceremonies and processions, in
which they are alwavs' desirous of t playing a part. On tin

p 2

H6 $t. sauveur's travels.

day on which the Fete Dieu is kept, whoever can exhibit
themselves in the costume of the Roman warriors ; whoever
can send thither one of his children dressed to represent an
angel, purchase 10 themselves the privilege of being eiothed
in a religious habit at the time of their death.

The Ivieans have nearly the same character and customs
as the inhabitants of the Baleancs; they only differ in their
extreme ignorance and coarseness of manners. Neverthe-
less they are said to be brave and good seamen.

CHAP. XI.

TIIE INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE OF THE BALEARIC AND
PITH1USIAN JSLES, WITH THE DIALECT OP THE INHA-
BITANTS.

xN a country where agriculture, the first of the arts, is
still in its infancy, any great degree of skill or industry is
not to be expected ; neither can there be any diversity of
manufactures. The islanders entertain among them those
arts and trades which may be denominated of absolute ne-
cessity; such as those of building, clothing, &c. The articles
which are manufactured in their workshops for exportation
are in no great quantity.

The Majorcans manufacture blankets, carpets, and wor-
sted sashes, some of which are sent to Malta, to Valence,
Sardinia, and even to America. Neither the quantity nor
quality of these manufactures can make them very profit-
able articles of exportation.

The people wear a sort of coarse cloth, which is manu-
factured in the island; they also wear a kind of woollen
striped stuff, that is equally coarse and clumsily made ; a
small part of this is sent to Catalonia and Valence.

The whole of their linen cloth is consumed in the island,
and does not constitute one of their articles of exportation,
with the exception only of the quantity for the use of the
navy, which is sent to the ports of Spain. It is in general
thought to be good, but is of high price.

The Majorcans manufacture their silk into taffeties, da-
masks, Sic. which are never exported.

These islanders have a great reputation in Spaiu for their

TRADE OF TliE MAJORCANS. l'lY

-inlaid-work, nnd they seem to me very well to observe it.
Their articles have a strength and solidity which make
them very durable; and in many of their designs may be
noticed an execution, which must have required as much
patience as skill ; but it is to be regretted, that in all
their labours there is still the fashion of the fifteenth cen-
tury. In general their designs are mostly executed with
great neatness, but the quantity and sameness of them
give these articles an antique appearance, which can never
please the eye of foreigners, accustomed to see the simple
beautiful shapes of modern furniture. Some of the Mnjor-
can articles, of this kind of inlaid work, are expensive, being
washed with silver; but these are not so well executed, nor
do they look to so much advantage. The Majorcans are
not expert in the art of gilding, and there are never to be
seen any of those elegant ornaments in bronze and gilt
copper, which are so much admired in France.

At Paltna there is a free-school, to teach the art of draw-
ing, where the young go to take lessons in the inlaid-work.
This establishment is under the protection of the society
called " The Friends of the Country."

There arc also two printing houses, but they only print'
the decrees and proclamations of the government, notices'
to the public, and a journal, in which is announced the
arrival and departure of the trading vessels, the state of
their cargoes, and the commodities which are to be pub-
licly sold. These printing houses are so ill managed and
ill furnished, that if they were united they could not print
an edition of the smallest literary work.

The Majorcans make a great quantity of brooms and
baskets of the leaves of the palm tree. Although i his ar-
ticle is of little consideration, they do not fail to export it
to a certain amount for the ports of Spain, and even for
Marseilles in time of peace. The ventures of the masters
of the merchantmen and of the Majorcan 3ailors often
consist of the leaves of the palm.

There is a glass-house at Palma, where, however, they
make only the most common glass. They do not even
know how to fabricate the black glass. This manufactory
does not export any of its articles.

In making the article of oil, the Majorcans, after having
extracted it from the olive, content themselves with pres-
sing it twice from the gTOss, or crust. This second oil is
added to the first : they throw away the gross, from which,

118 ST. SAUVEUfi's TRAVELS.

however, they might still draw a considerable quantity of
good oil.

They only make use of soft soap, and are not at all ac-
quainted with the method or' making it into cakes.

The Major cans do not derive any advantage from their
orange-flowers, angelica, wild celery, or maidenhair, nor
from their immense quantity of flowers, not even from the
roses. It is now four years since a French distiller, in
partnership with a Genoese, set up at Majorca. The So-
ciety of the Friends of the Country welcomed them, and
gave them sanction, and obtained an exclusive privilege in
their favour for the distillation of orange flowers for the
term of six years. I left that establishment in a state of
forwardness, which gave every promise of success.

An aptitude, and even taste, for the arts and sciences of
every kind, cannot be denied to the Majorean. This
island is yet but a new country, where the moral virtues of
the inhabitants, and the productions of the soil, are capable
of the most happy deveiopement.

The Minorcans and the Ivicans have really no kind of
manufacture which could be an article of exportation ; the
physical productions of their islands are the only article?
of which a small portion is sometimes sent abroad.

The Balearics were for a long time the center of a flou-
rishing and extensive commerce. They were not indebted
to their local wealth for this prosperity, but to their advan-
tageous situation, between the shores of Africa and Spain.
Among the first settlers in the Balearics were the Phoenicians
and Greeks: these people were merchants and seamen. They
carried with them into their new settlements the spirit of
trade, and their skill in navigation. The Romans, more
emulous of the glory acquired by conquest than the posses-
sion of wealth, gained by deep speculations, continued,
however, for their own interest, to pioteet the trade and
navigation of those commercial nations which submitted to
their laws. The inhabitants of the Balearics participated in
these encouragements. J hey then became subject to the
Moors, the descendants of the Carthagenians, who were so
famous for their maritime power ; for the wealth which
came to their ports, fur their extensive commercial con-
nections, and for their astonishing industry and activity. If
the Africans, when masters of Majorca, be compared with
the conquerors of the Romans and the conquerors of
"Spain, we may observe, that they have always in a
degree preserved the mercantile spirit, which dist'm-

HISTORY OF MAJORCA. 119

guished and enriched their ancestors. It may also be
observed that they communicated their particular habits
and necessities to the inhabitants of the Balearics, a4 well,
at the same time, as the desire of supplying them, I mean
at the epoch of the conquest of Majorca by king Don J ay me
the First. They yet preserve in the archives of Pal ma, records
which are authentic monuments of the former prosperity of
these islanders. Don J ay me the First, peaceable possessor of
the island of Majorca, occupied himself in the partition of
the lands; he kept one half, and divided the other among
the lords who had accompanied him, and assisted in the
conquest. The proprietors were for a long time themselves
the managers of their possessions, attending- to the cultiva-
tion of the grounds, and the increase of their value. Pre-
scribed at first to the enjoyment of the particular produc-
tions of the island, they soon afterwards opened their eyes
to the facilities which the situation offered for procuring in
abundance all that was necessary to their wants. The
inhabitant of the country was solely charged with the
work of agriculture. The proprietor took up his resi-
dence in the town, became speculator, merchant, and na-
vigator ; his progress was rapid, and the most flattering
success encouraged and recompensed the first efforts of his
industry. Commercial establishments were formed at Pal ma;
its port became filled with merchant ships, and these might
be reckoned three hundred square-rigged vessels at the
commencement of the thirteenth century. New settlers
arrived to augment the population of the country, and a
great number of the villages which now remain, were built
about the same epoch.

The ruins of ancient edifices constitute irrevocable testi-
monies of remote revolutions. There are not to be seen at
Majorca the remains of temples, nor of public buildings.
We do not meet with those monumental inscriptions, which
ill Greece help to acquaint us with the religion, laws, and
manners, in a word, with the history of the first inha-
bitants; but here the traveller will find the traces of the
flourishing state of the Balearic isles posterior to those
eyents. We cannot but contemplate with interest, the Ex-
change of Palma, and the grandeur of that edifice. ,.The
beauty and boldness of the architecture of which attest
the wealth of the commerce, and the progress of the arts,
from the thirteenth century. The inclosure of the walls of
the city, on the side of the sea, is altogether modern : it
separates, the Place Terra-Sana frQin the sea-shore, of

I2Q ST, SAUVBLR's TRAVELS.

nhich it formerly made part. There may yet be seen the
qncient gate which communicated with the port. Li going
from the town to the sea-side is the suburb St. Catharine,
inhabited by the sailors : this suburb formerly extended as
far as the hill where the Castle of Bel voir is situated, the
remains of which may still be seen ; and at that time the
population must have been much more considerable. The
number of seamen is, without contradiction, the most evi-
dent proof of the progress and flourishing state of naviga-
tion. There is also to be seen some remains of docks for
the building of ships, and of storehouses situated on the
sjiores of the semi-circle, which is described by the road-
stead to Palma.

. From the time of the fifteenth century, the commercial
establishments of the Genoese at Majorca were so consider-
able, as to have an Exchange to themselves. They then
occupied the quarter of the city, now inhabited by the
descendants of the Jews, who are branded with the ridicu-
lous appellation of (Chonettes) owls.

. They preserve in the archives of the university of Palma,
some very ancient sumptuary laws, which sufficiently prove
the progress of luxury, and, at the same time, attest the
opulent state of the inhabitants. These laws settled the
weight of the chains of gold, which, as at the present time,
made a part of the costume of the women.

Majorca, from its particularly advantageous situation, was
ope of the principal marts for the rich and valuable com-
modities of lndia> which were brought by sea from Dami-
etto, where they were conveyed by the caravans which
crossed the deserts. The productions of Asia and of Africa
accumulated in the warehouses of Palma, from whence
they passed into Spain, France, and Italy. Thus Majorca
was one of the chief markets of Europe ; navigation and
the arts were yet in their infancy ; and the indolence of
the neighbouring countries payed tribute to the activity of
the Majorcans. At length the rays of light, from learning
and experience began to spread over the continent ; useful
discoveries were made, and the encouragements of kings
and sovereign princes, excited emulation. Men of genius,
and intrepid seamen, conceived that there might be a pos-
sibility of reaching the Indies by a way not yet discovered,
and of bringing hack directly from thence those productions
•which they had been accustomed to obtain at second hand
from Majorca. This island thus became only a province
of Spain, and naturally lost, almost entirely, the conse-

COMMERCIAL FLUCTUATIONS. ]2l

quenee of which it was possessed, at the time when it was
a separate and independant state. Their maritime and
commercial laws, their customs and duties, all were entirely
calculated for the individual interest of the island. But
an entire change took place, and Majorca was sub-
jected to the same laws as the other provinces of the king*
clom, of which the island was now a part. Palma, at the
same time, was no longer the residence of a monarch>
whose presence and court attracted thither a number of
Strangers; which circumstance encreased the wealth of the
island, and encouraged the emulation of the islanders., not
only in the .cultivation of the lands, but also in the arts,
commerce, and navigation. A more numerous popula-
tion supplied labourers for agriculture, seamen for com-
merce, and soldiers for the defence of their country. The
nobility studied the use of arms, and the art of navigation.
In the records of Palma may be seen proofs, that there was
not a family, of the latter class, which did not at least fur-
nish an armed galley at their own expence. The marine
military force was sufficiently strong to give protection to
the active industry of ther merchants. The Barbarians,
who people the shores of Africa, as far as the straits of
Gibraltar, now exact ftom Spain a very humiliating tri-
bute. Several of the same cantons, at that time, payed
tribute to the Mnjorcans. The prosperity of the island,
which is now only a small part of those states which com-
pose the monarchy of Spain, insensibly languishes. The
wars of the Arragonian kings first struck at their prosperity,
by draining the island of men and money. Majorca, like
the other provinces, being obliged to furnish its proportion.
The expulsion of the Moors from the states of Spain was
fatal to the prosperity of the. kingdom. This measure,
dictated by an absurd and perhaps ill-judged zeal for
religion, by considerably diminishing the population,
took from agriculture, from the arts, commerce and navi-
gation, a great number of men, who carried their activity
and industry among people who knew their value, and who
offered them the comforts of a home, with the encourage-
ment their labours deserved, free from the difficulties they
were subject to in their native island. Majorca thus pro-
bably lost more than any other part of Spain by this emi-
gration. .How much -has France had to regret the revoca-
tion of the edict, which in proscribing the protestants,
enriched with our industry, kept away people who knew
so well how to profit by advantages.'

ST. SA.UVEUR.] O.

1£2 ST. SAUVEVR°S TRAVEL!.

The discovery of the Cape of Good Hope made a change
in the course from India ; Majorca ceased to be the mart,
and was itself soon reduced to receive commodities at se-
cond and third hand. The progress of navigation in neigh-
bouring countries at length entirely deprived the island of
those advantages it might derive from the activity of its
navy. Such have been the causes of the decline of the
commerce of the island of Majorca.

The commercial connections of the inhabitants of the
Balearics do not extend at present beyond the shores of
Spain, Africa, and France, in the Mediterranean. The
Majorcan articles of exportation are oils, wines, brandies,
almonds, oranges and lemons, beans, capers, and a small
quantity of cheese.

The amount of the oil exported, is valued at about eleven
millions of French livres. These oils are almost entirely
conveyed to Spain and Marseilles in Majorcan vessels ; a
very small quantity is also exported to the North, to Eng-
land, Hollaiid, &c. but the English and Dutch come hither
for it themselves.

The amount of the wines is valued at near six hundred
and eighty -five thousand and seventy livres; most of which is
exported in ships, which make it a ^xrt of the stores for their
own use : a small part is conveyed to the continent of
Spain, and some inconsiderable quantity to America.

The brandies are exported under the Majorcan flag to
Barcelona, Malaga, and Cadiz, from whence they go to
America. The English, Dutch, the Danes, ik-c. also come
sometimes to Majorca for theie brandies. The amount of
the exportations of this commodity is about one hundred
and seventy-seven thousand livres.

There are 14,000 milliers, or thousand weight, of oranges
and lemons exported under the Majorcan flag to the south-
ern provinces of France ; the amount of the value exceeds
two hundred thousand livres.

The amount of the cheese which is exported to Barce-
lona, and some other ports of Spam, is at most from thirty-
five to forty thousand livres.

Almost the whole exportation of almonds goes to Mar-
seilles: this article may amount to sixty thousand livres.

Most of the capers are also taken to Marseilles, and the
a&ount may be troin six to seven thousand livres.

Of beans, which is the only sort of pulse exported to
Spain, the quantity may be valued at about forty thousand
livres.

BALANCE OF TRADE. 123

Twelve millions, two hundred and two thousand, five
hundred and ninety livres, is the total amount or' the phy-
sical productions of the island of Majorca, which are ar-
ticles of exportation, to which the industry of the islanders
adds but very little.

The Majorcans receive in exchange for their physical
productions, corn, rice, salt provisions, tobacco, sugar,
coffee, woollen and other cloths of different qualities,
manufactured silks, and merceries of every description,
drugs, gun-powder, planks, and wood for building, iron
and other articles for the use of their shipping.

The grain imported from Africa amounts to the sum of
Beven hundred thousand livres-

The rice, salt provisions, sugar, and coffee, which they
have almost entirely from France, amount to about six
hundred thousand livres.

The cloth of different sorts, silks, and mercery, which
are supplied mostly from the southern parts of France, are
valued at nine hundred and seventy-seven thousand, nine
hundred and fourteen livres.

The drugs, gun-powder, tobacco, wood for building,
iron, arms, and materials for the navy, Sic. which are al-
most all imported from Spain, amount to the sum of seven
hundred and seventeen thousand, five hundred and seventy-
eight livres. —

The sum total of the importations in the island of Ma-
jorca, is nearly two millions, nine hundred and ninety-five
thousand, four hundred and ninety-two livres.

The balance in favour of the Majorcans is, according to
these calculations, nine million, two hundred and seven
thousand, and ninety-eight livres, or 38,36$/. 8s. Qd. sterling.

It is well known, that the wealth of a commercial people
depends on the value of their local productions, and those
which their industry furnishes t,o other nations, in proporr
tion to the merchandize which they receive ; it is- thus that
the balance is settled, and lhat one may judge how far a
nation ought to extend its commercial connections in im-
portation as well as exportation. If commerce be the source
of wealth, it is also proved, that it contributes to the
decadence of a nation, from the time when it becomes, too
much'extended ; it then receives much more than it can
give in exchange for its own produce.

This fact is but too sensibly experienced by the Major-
cans: poor in the natural produce of the island^ and having
neither works nor manufactures which ciight supply the

124 ST. sauveur's travels.

deficiency. They export very few articles of their own
growth to those nations, from whom they receive not only
all that belongs to the convenience and enjoyment of life,
but even most of those articles which are necessary to their
existence.

The Minorcans export a small quantity of cheese, which
is sold in Italy ; the amount does not exceed twenty thou-
sand francs, of French money. They obtain from the
fleeces of theirflocks a surplus of wool, whieh may be valued,
at most, at the sum of thirty thousand livres. The honey,
wax, and salt, produce about ten million livres above the
consumption of the islanders. The exportation of wine,
added to what is consumed in the island by the troops and
foreigners, which is always paid for in ready money,
amounts to about three hundred and fifty thousand livres.
The islanders thus acquire, from the quantity they send
abroad, only the sum of four hundred and ten thousand
livres.

They import the articles of wheat, oxen, sheep, oil,
brandy, tobacco, rice, sugar, coffee, and spices ; woollen
and other cloths, iron, planks, cordage, guu-powder, tar,
&c. The amount of the importations is evidently greatly
superior to that of exportation ; the balance, therefore,
cannot be in favour of the Minorcans.

The consumption of the English, at the time when they
were in possession of Minorca, had given to the commo-
dities of this island an extraordinary value, which put into
circulation a very considerable sum,- to which were added
the profits the islanders derived from the sale of those
articles which came from abroad. The economy of the
Spaniards in their manner of living has put a stop to these
advantages.

The Minorcans might nevertheless ameliorate their situa-
tion, by industry and labour. However infertile the island
may be, there are many articles which the cultivation of
the soil might grow to advantage.

Cotton succeeds very well, and it world be easy to in-
crease the produce of this plant, so as to make it an article
of exportation to a considerable amount. The Maltese ex-
port from their island as much as fifteen thousand quintals,
besides what is used in the country. The soil of the island
of Malta is assuredly not more fruitful than that of Mmoica,
but the Maltese have an activity which does not belong to
the Minorcans. Why do they not cultivate with care and
aoentipn a number of olive trees, whose fruit would su

ARTICLES OF COMMERCE. 125

well recompence the labours of the coon try man. The
Minorcans have their oil from Majorca; they might pro-
bably be soon saved this expence, and have at the sama
time a surplus of their own produce.

The capers abound in every part of the island, and yet
the Minorcans derive no advantage from them beyond
their own consumption. How easily might they make of
them an article of exportation ?

Flax and hemp succeed perfectly well : might not the
quantity be en creased ? Why do not the Minorcans manu-
facture themselves the cloths which they are now obliged to
have from abroad ? They might probably carry this branch
of industry still farther.

The cane and reeds, so common in the island of Mi-
norca, are or that quality which is so much sought after
by the drapers ; and yet the Minorcans neglect to profit by
this advantage.

The slate, which is found in abundance in many parts of
the island, also presents a valuable article of speculation.

The free-stone, of which they have such quantities, might
serve for the ballast of their outward-bound vessels, and
then be sold abroad for other freight.

Mastic, aloes, and many other drugs, grow in pure
waste, for the Minorcans make no use of them, and yet
they might constitute articles of commerce.

Bees would thrive exceedingly in an island which so
abounds in aromatic plants: those of Minorca produce ex-
cellent wax, and the honey is in much esteeir/, It would
certainH be to the interest of the Minorcans to extend this
source of wealth, by encreasing the number of hives.

The Minorcans might follow the example of the Major-
cans, ano derive a profit from the saffron of the island, an
article of which they now make but little use.

Besides their own consumption, these islanders might
export a considerable quantity of fruit. Their oranges,
lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates are of a quality
not at all inferior to the same fruits of Majorca. It would
be very easy to increase the number of these valuable
trees.

bait might be made, without any trouble, a very interest-
ing article of exportation, as the Minorcans have a means
of procuring it, which is very easy. In many places on the
coast the rocks are flat, and raised a little above the sur-
face of the sea; when the wind blows fresh, tbe waves
Cover them from one end to the other, so thai in time, the

125 ST. SAUVEUR's TIMYE&S.

salt eats into the softest parts, and forms a great number of
small cavities, separated one from the other bv the parts of
the rock which, have resisted its power; these cavities being
filled with the sea water, one day's sun-shine is sufficient
to dry them up, and form the salt. Women and cu.ldreti
are employed in the evening to collect it, and 611 the cavi-
ties again with water.

1 have already mentioned the numerous kinds of fish with
which the coast of Minorca abounds ; these, if salted,
might make an important article of exportation.

Navigation, in particular, presents to the Minorcans the
means not only to liquidate their debts with foreigners, but
another source of certain benefit. The advantages derived
from navigation have raised Holland to a degree oi' power,
which has placed it in a situation to rival those nation*
whose commerce was most extensive. Navigation alone
lias maintained the small republic of Ragusa, whose terri-
tory is so confined, and almost every where covered
with barren rocks. The inhabitants of this little state were
like porters or carriers of the commerce of the Medi-
terranean. They had deserved the confidence of the
merchants of every trading nation, and their ships were
not inactive in port. The Minorcans have, more than
any other people, the means of successfully imitating the
example of these navigators : as they are almost all seamen,
the port of Mahon presents every convenience for the
building and repairing of ships. Accustomed to live fru-
gally, the victualling of these vessels would nut be very
expensive: they could then afford to take in freight at a
price which would always give them the preference.

At the time when the island was in the possession of the
English, the Minorcan merchants and seamen enriched
themselves by the prizes taken by their armed vessels.
Government particularly encouraged these cruisers : the
warehouses of Minorca were overstocked with merchan-
dize of every description, which was exported to great ad-
vantage into neutral countries, and smuggled into the ports
of the powers which were armed against the English.

The commerce and navigation of the Minorcans neces*
sarily suffered from the existing circumstances at the time
when they sailed under the British flag ; their ships were
always ready to intercept the merchant vessels of Spain
and France, in the Mediterranean ; thus they brought
into their country considerable wealth. To enrich thetiH
selves, at the expence of the English trade, it would

6

ON THE IMPROVEMENT OP MINORCA. 1"27

now be necessary to establish cruisers in distant lati-
tudes, as merchant ships near home ale generally well
protected by the naval forces. On the other hand, their
own merchant ships can scarcely escape the English,
cruisers, which are continually on the coasts ^of the,e
islands. It is not surprising, therefore, to see the ports of
Minorca .full of unarmed vessels, winch are laid up to rot
in a state of inactivity.

The completion of the Lazaretto will restore, or rather fix,
the prosperity and trade of the island. The wealth of trre
Spanish ships compelled to go thither, to peiform' their
quarantine; and the daily arrival of foreign vessels, attract-
ed thither from the same motive, will be the means of
circulating considerable sums in the island. The naval
works will also be another source of riches to the Minor-
cans, when peace shall have given liberty and safety to
the navigator. When the commerce of different nations
shall have filled the Mediterranean with' its flags, the port
of Mahon will offer them a shelter against the tempest, and
will find them the necessary materials for the purpose of
refitting after a voyage. The Mlnorcans will profit by
the facility of their situation, and of the excellence of
their ports; their industry and activity will acquire a
new spring. If the ship-building under the English
is a source of wealth to that nation, what may we not
hope from this island becoming the focus of naval re-
pairs for numerous foreign nations. Perhaps, I repeat
what I have already said, that to give,, in some measure,
the first spring to that prosperity, it would be necessary for
the court of Spain to grant some years of freedom to the
port of Mahon. The island of Minorca, poor in local pro-
ductions, can only supply manufactures, lor which it is by
no means qualified. Jt is by her shipping only that Mi-
norca can enrich herself; it is to that point that the activity
of the inhabitants should be turned. In giving support and
encouragement to these views, Spain would presently re-im-
feurse herself for the loss of duties taken off for a time only;
the charges of keeping the island of Minorca would be no
longer a burthen on the public treasury. Every thing lan-
guishes at present; and it is proved, that the duties re-
ceived from commerce and navigation are very insufficient
for the expenees for the use of the soldiery employed by
government.

The inhabitants of the Phhiusian Isles, content with find-
ing enough to satisfy their immediate wsfrts, keep tip but

128 st» satjvkur's travels;

a small share of commerce with strangers, nor even wikTx
their neighbours : it is with difficulty that they can be pre-
vailed upon to export even a small quantity of woollen
cloth, which is almost entirely consumed by the navy of
Spain, and some oil which goes to Majorca; and these
trips are only the particular speculations of some captains
of vessels. The laws of the country but too much favour
the natural indolence of the inhabitants, and their want of
inclination for any foreign trade The exportation of corn,
oil, and some fruits, are prohibited. These islanders, ac*
customed to sow only the quantity of com which is neces-
sary for their own consumption, are subject, in those years
when the crops are not plentiful, to the want of bread \ and
in those seasons that the harvest is abundant, they lose the
surplus of their consumption, and, with the greatest in-
, difference, see it rot in their store-houses. Would it not be
wiser to suffer the exportation of this corn to Majorca,
which, in times of scarcity, import it from Africa ? On
reflecting on the advantageous situation of the Pithiu-
sian islands, between the two continents of Europe and
Africa, and considering* the goodness of the soil, watered
by an infinite number of excellent springs, the mildness of
the climate, the distiibution of the habitations dispersed
over the* country, and thus, not forming towns or cities
that are too populous, a distribution so favourable to the
labours of agriculture ; considering these circumstances,
can one conceive the indigent state of the Ivicans? Mature
has herself to supply their wants, and does it not seem, at
the same time, to reproach their indolence.

The language of these islanders is nearly the same as
that of the Catalonians, from which it differs only in some
particular words, and in the pronunciation of many others.
A Catalonian is understood perfectly by a Majorcan, a Mi-
norcan, and an Ivican. At the epoch of the conquest of
this isle by king Jayme the First, a considerable number of
Catalonian families came and settled here, and introduced
the use of the language of their own country. Muntaner,
an historian, cotemporary with the expedition of king
Jayme, affirms this fact, and adds, that there remained at
Majorca, of the Moors who formerly possessed the island,
only a certain number of slaves, employed in the cultiva-
tion of the lands, and a few families in easy circumstances,
who had embraced Christianity. Benimelis and Dameto,
Majorcan writers, derive the dialect of their country from
the Limosiu ; but certainly there is not the smallest si mi-;

LANGUAGE OF THE BALEARES 129

krity between these two dialects. On the contrary, a great
resemblance and conformity, and even a perfect sameness,
may be observed between the Catalonian language and that
which is spoken in the southern provinces ot Fiance; the
same turn of expression, the same pronunciation, and
almost the same words. The trifling ditFerence which is at
present observed between these two languages, proceeds
from the habitual connections which consequently existed
between tbe Catalonians and the Castilians. They still
preserve, in the records of Barcelona, some acts written en-
tirely in the language of Languedoc, and other dialects of
the southern provinces of France, if there remained any
doubt of the similarity and conformity between the two
languages, it would be removed on seeing a person from
Languedoc arrive, for the first time, in Catalonia. He
would be able, without the help of an interpreter, to express
his wants ; at the end of eight days he converses fluently,
and in less than a month he is a perfect master of the
language. Coming from Catalonia to tbe Belearic isles,
one is surprised to find any difficulty in making oneself
perfectly understood, although we meet with a great num-
ber of expressions which are entirely the same as in Cata-
lonia and Languedoc. But the language of the inhabitants
of the Balearic is now a mixed jargon, composed of the
dialects of the several nations which have successively been
in possession of these islands. The words of which this
language is composed are a sort of monumental records,
that may serve to follow the series of the many revolutions
which these islanders have experienced. Unless one had
been accustomed from infancy to live in a neighbouring
country to the Balearic, it is difficult to speak a language,
which is that of Languedoc, embarrassed with words which
are Syriac, Carthaginian, Greek, Roman, Vandal, -Arabic,
Catalonian, and- Castilian. It is not easy to distinguish
from which of these dialects the pronunciation which most
prevails among these islanders is derived. A foreigner
finds it very difficult to acquire, because of the nasal and
guttural sounds. For the letter / is often substituted the
letter s; and the letters a and e are perpetually confound-
ed. For example, they will pronounce sa camie, for camisa,
the shirt; es pare for el padre, the father, &c. Never-
theless, they give the true pronunciation to the article in
other expressions ; they do not say es rey, the king ; es bisbe,
the bishop; but el rey, el bisbe. in some villages of Ma-
jorca, as at Pollenza, the letter / never loses its sound in the

ST. SAUVEUR.] R

130 bT. sauveur's travels.

pronunciation of the article. These defects of language
are observed in every country, where a distance of eignt or
ten leagues makes a difference in the pronunciation, and
the language also varies very materially. A stranger would
find himself very much at a loss, on his arrival at Minorca,
if the islanders of a certain rank were not acquainted with
the Spanish language, and the common people sufficiently
so, if not to speak it, at least to understand it. At Minorca
we find many persons, particularly among merchants and
seamen, who write and speak very well both French and
English The length of time that this island was possessed
by each of these nations, has made the use of these lan-
guages very familiar to the inhabitants.

As for the lvicans, they differ in their jargon by a
more guttural pronunciation, and very few of them under-
stand any Spanish.

I observed with surprise, and some regret, that in these
islands, while the men pride themselves on the study and
use of the Spanish language, the women obstinately persist
in that of their own noisy jargon; even when they knovr
the Spanish. One can only impute this ridiculous habit to
the extreme vanity of the sex, and not to that diffidence
which is always an ornament to beauty.

CHAP. XII.

COSTUME OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE BALEARIC! AND
FITHIUSES. — ANTIQUITIES OF THESE ISLANDS.

XN reflecting on the variety of costumes which are still
preserved by the inhabitants of the Balearics, I fancied that I
discovered, as in their dialects, some interesting vestiges
of the many revolutions they have experienced. Without
referr.ng to what is said by Diodorus, of the custom of the
first inhabitants going naked, let us take them from the
time oi' their civilization. Their clothing was then com-
posed of the skins of animals; from whence is the epithet of
>,;sr>nodkest which was given them by the poet Lycophron,
A« the present time this dress is still to be seen among the
Majorcan shepherds. The husbandman, careless about
ttioderu fashions, preserves the habit of his ancestors : and

COSTUME OP THE PEOPLE. 1'S'l

•his costume is a kind of monumental record of a very
ancient date. His calotte or cap, his short hair, his loose
coat, his large breeches, and his shoes without buckles,
recal to the mind the Greeks, who were the first allies of the
inhabitants of the Balearics. The sort of short petticoat,
which they wear over their breeches, appears to be the
sagum of the Romans, in time of peace.

These islanders have not adopted the use of the red, a
net in which the Goths confined their hair. It is rather
surprising that this head-dress, which is so universal in
Spain, has not gained admittance in these islands, which
have mostly been peopled from the time of the conquest of
kingJayme by Catalonians, amongst whom the red is still a
distinguishing part of the costume. Of the habit of the Goths
the islanders have only retained the tunic, which the
ancients called stringe, and which they wore over their other
garments, in their country employ. nents.

Their costume has also some resemblance to that of the
present Greeks, who are under the dominion of the Turks :
pt recals to our remembrance the reign of the Moors in the
Balearic's. The islanders differ particularly f'rbui the Greeks
in the length of the habit, which they wear much shorter ;
and they have not adopted the custom of wearing whis-
kers on the upper lip, nor do they wear the turban.

On festival days the peasant lays aside his usual costume,
and appears in the Spanish dress of the time of king Jayme
the First. On seeing the black cape, the large plaited ruff, co-
vering the shoulders and part of the bre;ist; and the vast hat,
turned up on each side, resembling that worn by the ecclesias-
tics of the present day, one may almost fancy that we are still
in the thirteenth century. We find exactly this costume in the
many portraits of that age. The simple inhabitant of the
country, in these vestments, the connection of which with
the time of his ancestors he is totally unacquainted with,
lives happy in the bosom of a numerous family, and knows
not the poison of the luxury which corrupts the morals in.
cities and towns.

At Papua, at Mahon, and even at Ivica, there does not
remain the smallest vestige of the costumes of the ancients,.
The laticlava is no longer kuo&n but from history, though
Strabo asserts that it was invented by the inhabitants of the
Balearics. Those who inhabit the towns and cities of these
isles, prefer the European habit, particularly that of the
French, and they are very fond of wearing a military nni^
form, with the exception, however,, of ttie Minorcans.

B2

15'2 ST. SAUVEUR S TUAVELS.

The women in the capital, as in the other islands, have the
same costume, from the marchioness of the first family to
the meanest domestics, which they wear in the house as
well as abroad. The head-dress is a kind of nun's double
handkerchief. The upper une, whieh covers the head, is
longer than the chin, and leaving only the face to be seen,
it spreads over the shoulders, and reaches half way down
the back. The two corners are crossed in front on the
bosom. This head-dress, as simple as becoming, is called
rebozillo, and is the part of the costume on which the
women set the highest value. These rebozillos are gene-
rally of fine muslin, scolloped. Many of them are valuable,
from the quantity of needle-work with which they are orna-
mented, and the expensive lace with which they are
trimmed. The women among the common people some-
times wear them made of printed calico, but mere gene-
rally of a coarser, muslin, and trimmed with a coloured
ribbon. Women for a mourning, habit wear a black
rebozillo, for a near relation, and a, white one, trimmed
with black ribbon, for a more distant friend.

The Minorcan women wear over this head dress a second
rebozillo, made of coarse red cloth, ornamented with rib-
bon, which is generally yellow. This rebozillo is only
worn without doors ; it is called the mentete.

The women of Ivica wear the rebozillo of a yellow
colour; it is either of coarse cloth, or printed calico of a
very ordinary quality. A stranger who sees, for the first
time, the women of these islands, cannot help admiring
the beauty of their hair, which falls below the waist,
flowing at length, carelessly in the wind. But what is his
surprize when he is informed that these beautiful tresses are
only artificial i His astonishment increases when he sees
the most charming young women carry the ridiculous folly
so far as to sacrifice their own beautiful hair, the finest or-
nament of nature, to their prejudices in favour of this
absurd fashion, and to take it from the head to which it
belonged, to wear it as a false tail. What purpose, it may
be abked, does this absurdity answer ? It is in vain to try
to account for it. The islanders themselves can give no
reason for the practice. i\Hien I have attempted to find
fault with the head-dress' of their women, they retorted on
roe the wigs worn by our ladies, and indeed they seemed to
have some reason on their side. In fact, nothing can be
more disgusting than the head of one of our elegantes
covered with false hair. They endeavour to excuse this

EXTRAORDINARY HEAD-DRESSES. ]<&

absurdity. by the pretext of convenience; but we are never-
theless at liberty to believe that vanity alone gave birth to
this fashion. Our French women, 1 hope they will pardon
me, were not so wise as the foxes in the fable, who would
not attend to the counsel of that fox anions; them, who,
baving lost his own tail, advised them to cutoff theirs.

At ivica it is not unusual in the country to meet women
wearing a cow's tail, added to the remains of her own hair.
We may reasonably doubt whether this fashion extends be-
yond the Pithiuses. The Minorcans always wear a corset
of black silk, stiffened with strong whalebone, which con-
fines the body tightly, and often prevents the proper growth
of the bosom, from which proceeds too many inconve-
niencies, and probably this is one of the causes of the pain-
ful and fatal accouchements so frequent at Majorca. The
sleeves are also worn very narrow, and terminate above the
elbow. They are made open in front of the arm, and seem
to be only what sempstresses call basted together: but in a
mourning habit they are sewed up close; they are orna-
mented with several buttons of gold or silver, and some-
times of precious stones. This ifttfa part of Majorcan
extravagance. These tight sleeves preventing the free
circulation of the blood, do not leave the arm room to
acquire its natural roundness and beauty. In general, the
Majorcan women are narrow chested, and have the arm
ill-formed and thin. May this observation of a stranger, in
other respects an admirer of their beauties, merit their in-
dulgence. The cotset is ornairfented in front with two
rows of silver buckles, placed longways, and answering the
purpose of our laces, to fasten the dress close. But it is
only the wives of tradesmen and mechanics who wear these
buckles: the iadies have substituted a stomacher, fastened
down the sides with ribbons, or ornamented with very small
buttons. The women of a lower class and servants wear a
half sleeve of cloth, over the sleeve of the corset. The
petticoat is generally black ; but sometimes in the house
they wear them of white or printed calico. The black
petticoats are ornamented with fringes of silk, cotton, or
worsted, and sometimes only with a black ribbon. They
are always worn short, to show the lower part of the leg.
The Majorcan women pride themselves on always being
well dressed about the feet ; their shoes have very high
heels. The ornaments worn by rich persons, and those in
easy circumstances, consist of a necklace of pearls, which
passing under the rebozillo, falls below the stomach : a

1S4 ex. sauvejjr's travels.

medal or cross of gold is generally attached to it, and
sometimes a Maltese cross. They wear round the waist a
gold chain, which on one side hangs the length of the pet-
ticoat, and is terminated by an ornament of the same pre-
cious metal, on the left side, tied with a ribbon, or fastened
■with a small gold chain to the corset; they wear a medal-
lion, enclosing the portrait of the father, the husband, or
the lover, but more generally the picture of a saint. The
IViajorcan women also wear watches, and load their fingers
with a number of rings. When they go out, they cover
themselves with a long muslin veil, or one of black cloth, if
they are in mourning. This they call the mantilla. They
always carry in one hand a long chaplet, ornamented with a
large gold tassel, at the end of which hangs a cross or
medal.

The Minorcans shew less taste and fancy in their dress.
They also wear corsets, and flowered silk petticoats; some
of them are even embroidered with gold or silver. They
plait them very full on the hips, and make them as stiff as
possible. Thus nothing can be more encumbered than a
Minorcan lady in a gala dress; when they sit down, they
remind me of our old ladies in hoop petticoats.

The women in the country generally wear under the chin.,
where the rebozillo is fastened, a huge bow or knot of
ribbon, which they call the floque. This ornament is often
made of leather. This floque seems to be a part of the
thick ruffs formerly worn round the neck by the ancient
Spaniards. The women of the peasantry never go out
without a large hat, like that worn by the men, but orna-
mented with a black velvet ribbon, the ends of which fly in
the wind behind the head. They, like the women of the
lower class in the towns, have a sort of apron of striped
calico, the whole of which is gathered close, and seems
only to be a thick plaited ornament down the front of the
petticoat.

At first sight, the rebozillo is the most striking part of the
costume of the women of these islands. This head-dress,
of which no resemblance is now to be found, except in con-
vents of nuns, was worn in France from the time of the Me-
rovingians until the time of the reign of Charles the Eighth.
It was worn in Spain till the reign of Charles the Fifth.
We still see on the mausoleums of Poplet the statues of
princesses represented with the rebozillo. Saints of those
days were also painted in this costume. The rebozillo
seems to have been introduced in these islands by the

BALEAftTC ANTIQUITIES* 135

Catalonian women who settled here, at the time of
the conquest of king Ja\ me the first. Father Mariana re-
lates that the Spanish women changed the rebozillo for
the mantilla in the reign of Philip the First, in the year
1506.

According to Armstrong, the antiquities of the Balearics
mav be divided into three classes. In the first, should be
placed those of the most remote periods ; in the second,
those belonging to the Romans; and in the third the anti-
quities of the Moors.

In such distribution, this author places in the first class
the monuments, which the islanders call the altars of the
Gentiles. I saw several of them in the island of Minorca.
The description which Armstrong gives of one of these,
which is situated two miles to the E.S.E. of Alayor, seems
to me to be very exact.

It is built on an eminence, and surrounded by a wall of
large flat stones, perfectly well joined together. This
enclosure forms a circular plan of about two hundred yards
diameter. In the center is a large heap of rough stones,
piled one on another without any cement. They form a
cone of about thirty yards diameter, and nearly the same in
height. There is a cavity in the base, the entrance of
which faces the south, and into which a man may enter by
stooping. They have cut around this pyramid a way about
three feet wide, by which one may go to the summit, a
large flat space, where seven* or eight people may easily
stand. From hence may be seen, to the south, a view of
the sea, and on every other side an extensive prospect of
the country. Within the enclosure, at some distance from
the pyramid, are two square stones, one of them placed per-
pendicularly, and the other horizontally on the top of the
first. The one on the top is sixteen feet long and seven
broad, and is twenty inches in thickness. The other seems
to be nearly the same size, but it cannot be measured very
exactly, because it is partly sunk in the earth. There is no
trace of a chissel, and it is thought that there was never
any inscription nor other sculpture on this monument.

These two stones, from their situation and form, seem to
have been an altar. The flat stone probably was used for
the sacrifices: but as it was very high above the level of
the ground, and consequently out of the reach of the
priest, there is no doubt but that there must have been steps,
by means of which he ascended. This conjecture is founded

IS6 ST. sauveur's travels.

on the position and shape of the stones which are found at
the foot of this altar.

As for the purpose for which the islanders might have
raised these heaps, Diodorus of Sicily tells us that the inha-
bitants of the Balearics piled stones on the graves of the
dead: and it is thought that they only erected monuments
in honour of distinguished persons, and very probably on
opening these pyramids there would be found human bones.
These heaps of stones present a kind of mute history^ be-
fore the invention of writing, which serve to perpetuate the
remembrance of their great men, while the songs which
are transmitted from father to son may be esteemed as the
commentaries. In raising these kind of pyramids, the
islanders seem also to have had another purpose in view.
Such monuments are always placed on eminences, and so
distant from each other, that they may be seen from every
part of the country. It is probable that they were at the
same time intended for so many watch towers, by means of
which they could discover the approaches of an enemy,
and from which they might make signals- to put the inha-
bitants on their guard, and give them time to join, and meet
the foe, or to hide themselves in the caves of the rocks.
These pyramids were also called by the islanders "atba-
lais ;" a name totally inapplicable, if they were not used as
watch towers.

M. Cambry, in his work on the Celtic monuments, in the
Etymological Vocabulary, gives the following explanation
of the word atalaya : — "Atalaya, the name of the altars
or stone burial places of the Balearics, in the form of the
nipple of a woman's breast. Of the Spanish atalaya,
which signifies, 1st, Tower or turret of observation ; 2dly,
Sentinel placed in the atalaya, from whence atnlays, to
keep watch. These words appear to be derived from the
Cc-lto-Gaulic. Adail, edilicc from a augmentation, and tal,
elevated, and, from the Spanish termination ay a, which
answers to the French termination aille, in antiquaille. Thus
the atalaya of the Balearics is the agec specula to rum, or
field of sentinels in the Bible ; the menticulus of the
Moabites, which Ensebius called the watch tower of the
country, and which St. Jerome has translated a high place.
The atalaya answers, therefore to the word, as well as to the
thing, with the altare of the Latins, Festus.says, "AUaria ab
altidunine dicta sunt, quod antique dus sttperis in ecdejiciis,
a Una eialtatis sacre J'ackbant," which entirely explaius

ALTARS AND PYRAMIDS. 137

the atalayas, and confirms the etymology. From the Celtic
tal, elevated, comes the French taille, hauteur; the Spanish
tallo, tailla, talludo, of grand size ; talle, tige, and the
Latin tallere, elevated, raised."

If we consider the situation of this isle, and the many
nations to which it has been subjected at different times,
we must be convinced the inhabitants must have lived in a
state of continual alarm. It was therefore very natural for
a people thus exposed, to contrive an expedient which
would serve at once to gain time, to repulse the enemy, or
to shelter themselves from Injury.

The way made round these pyramids to ascend to the
summit, and the cavity which might serve as a retreat to
those appointed as watchmen, leave no doubt that these
monuments were raised as much for the protection of the
islanders, as to honour the memory of their dead.

The situation of the altars near these pyramids naturally
explains itself. It appears plain that the priests, whose
duty it was to appease the wrath of the Gods, or invoke
their favour by their prayers and sacrifices, placed them on
the spot from whence the danger was first discovered :
respect for religion caused them to surround these altars
with a wall, to protect them from the approach of either
men or beasts.

The simplicity of these altars is a proof of their anti-
quity. In the first ages of the world, all the ceremonies of
religion were comprised in offering sacrifices to the Gods.
The altars were only made of earth and some stones placed
on an eminence. The Celtic druids multiplied these altars
wherever they went; and numbers of them are still to be
seen on the mountains of Scotland, in Ireland, and many
other places.

The construction of pyramids built of rough stones of
different shapes and sizes, placed one on another, as if by
chance, and without any cement to join them together, are
manifestly cyelopian.

I remarked in some places of the island of Majorca, the
ruins of walls composed of enormous stones placed one on
another, without cement. The aqueduct of Ternelle, at
Pollenza, also seems to be of 4 construction anterior to
that of the Romans.

Numberless medals have been found in the Balearics;
and, according to Vargas, among such as have been dis-
covered in the island of Majorca, are ^distinguished those

ST. SAUVfiJJR.] s

«

*

1.38 ST. SAUVEUll's TRAVELS.

of Metellus, which are mentioned by Fulvius-Urseinns,
Vaillant, and others. Dom Thomas-Andre de Gusseme
mentions, that, according to Goltzius, a medal was struck
in commemoration of the conquest of the Balearics, in the
year of Home 630, by the consul Quintus Cecilius Metellus,
surnamed the Balearian. On the principal side is aQ, and
near it a Jupiter's head crowned with laurel: on the reverse
is a Victory crowning a trophy, with this inscription round
it, " Q. Metellus Balearic." This medal, which being con-
sulary, should have been struck at Rome, where the family
of Cecilia resided, seems to be the same as that mentioned
by Vargas. The medal of Canopus is very scarce ; but
Iodic of Augustus, with the palm, are to be seen ; some
ofCrispus, some of the consulages M. Balbus, Hostilius,
Sac'ernaj and Dectus, with the countersign of Majorca, little
known and very scarce. Some of Gordian, the African ;
same of Domitia and of Pulcheria ; and about five hundred
of gold and silver have been found at Santagni, forming a
collection from the time of Galba to that of the change of
the empire. There have also been found several medals with
unknown letters, and which are supposed to belong to the
time of the Celtes.

in Minorca have been found medals of the Phoenicians,
the Carthaginians, some of the kings of Macedon, of
Philip, the father of Alexander the Great, some of Alex-
ander, and of Lysimachos. Some Celtiberittn, that is to
say, belonging to the cities of Spain, situated for the most
part in Celtiberia, and whose unknown character makes any
explanation very difficult; some belonging to the cities of
(i)vvc\tt as Athens, Kphesus, Samoa, and others; some of
lysines, Marseilles; some belonging to the municipalities
and Spanish colonies under the dominion of the Romans:
in short, some of all the emperors, empresses, Caesars and
tv:..nts, who at different periods governed the empire of
Home, either a part or the whole, from the time of its be-
ginning until the. sixth century of the christian eera. Seve-
ral of the imperial medals, and those of the colonies had
counter-marks, as D. I). P. 1). and others.

Don Pedre Alonse O'Crouley, in his Castilian translation
bf the Essays of Addison on Medals, p. 2 Id, places
ninong those unexplained a I^itin medal of Minorca in the
following lermfe, translated from the Spanish : * Minorca
on a medal not understood, a head which might be sup-
posed to be that of Neptune; a man on a horse, with a
ao'-yi: of laurel. In the extrgue.. Minor . . . . . a little ef-

CURIOUS MEDALS. ISg

faced." Tt seems to belong to the island of Minorca, which
is called insula minor, or Balearis minor, or simply minor,
in an inscription. This medal is of bronze.

It is astonishing, that there has never since been found
in Minorca any one of the same kind. It seems to belong
to the island, and probably was struck there, according to
the custom of the ancients. The head of Neptune might
characterize the first inhabitants of Minorca, who distin-
guished themselves by their cruises at sea, from the time
of the Romans : but as for the man on horseback, on the re-
verse, we find nothing in the ancient writers to support the
conjecture of an affinity with the same inhabitants. On
the contrary, it is well known that they always fought ou
foot. Their principal weapon, the sling, was not at all
proper to be used by a horseman. There is no author that
makes any mention of their horses.

Among this quantity of medals, there are many of gold
and of silver j but the most of them are bronze of different

sorts. <£*$%& H*.

They account for such an extraordinary number of me-
dals, by the favourable situation of the island for the pas-
sage of the east with the west, and of Spain with Italy and
Africa. As another cause of this quantity of medals, they
mention the arrival of several Spanish families, who, at
the beginning of the fifth century, driven by the Suevi, the
Vandals, and other barbarians, sought an asylum in the
island of Minorca. The bishop, St. Severus, who at that
epoch filled the see of Minorca, mentions this event in one
of his letters.

They still continue to find in this island medals, which
are almost all of the Roman emperors and empresses; some
of them are rather scarce, such as those of Galba, Clodius
Albinus, the young Gordian, the African ; Quintillius, Au-
relian, and Severina his wife; Helena, the wife of Con-
srantius Chlorus ; Elia Flacilla, the first wife of the great
Theodosius, &c. 8cc. Medals of Rome and Constantinople,
of the time of Constantine the Great, are also very com-
mon.

As for the medals of the time of the Arab*, which were
found in the Balearics, they were almost all of silver ; many
of them have been melted down, and it does not seem that
any of them have been explained.

There was also found at Minorca a gothic medal, struck,
according to all appearance, at the end of the thirteenth
century ; it is of small bronze ; on one side, in a circle, is a
■ s 3

140 st. sauveur's travels.

head turned to the left, wearing an open crown with flower-
ed work, and round it the inscription, Alphonsus rex. The
reverse side presents an escutcheon, with the bars of Arva-
gon, and the inscription, Minoriearum. We meet with
other medals, where the head shews the full face. No nu-
mismatic author has mentioned these medals. The most
probable opinion is, that they were struck by the order of
Alphonso the Third, king of Arragon, in memory of the
conquest of the island of Minorca, which was taken from
the Moors in 1286.

On the side of the island of Majorca, near Pollcnza, in a
place which is still called the colony, there have been found
some remains of antique sculpture; among these is to be
distinguished ahead in tolerable preservation,, which is sup-
posed to belong to a statue of Me tell us.

Among the statues of bronze I saw a small Hercu-
les ; a leg and a finger of extraordinary size, finished
with a great deal of care ; a figure of a man bathing; and a
small bull. I was shewn also several cinerary and lachry-
matory urns, with some sepulchral lamps, all ot them of
earth. ' ^B

They have also discovered in the island of Minorca, seve-
ral small statues in bronze, representing the Egyptian,
Greek, and Roman divinities, such as Diana, Cupid, For-
tuna, Isis, Apis, Osiris, &c. but none of them are of verv
fine workmanship. The statues shew that the worship of
these divinities was established in the island of Minorca.

Almost the whole of the literary curiosities have been
taken away by the different nations, which have alternately
possessed the island of Minorca during the last century ; it
is principally in the collections at London and Madrid that
the most curious relics of the ancient history of the Ba-
learics are to be met with.

At Minorca there have been found a great quantity of
vases, sepulchral lamps, and cinerary and lachrymatory
urns, all of a red earth. We know from history, that the
Roman's were not the only people who had the custom of
inclosing the ashes of the dead in urns. It was also estab-
lished among the Carthaginians and Celts. The whole of
these vases differ not the one from the other neither in
form nor materials. It is difficult to distinguish whose
ashes these urns enclose; some of them bear Inscription*,
-in Roman characters, which decide the question as far as
relates to them. Vargas, in his description of the island of
Majorca, has two Roman inscriptions mentioned by M.

ROMAN INSCRIPTIONS. 141

Serra, of Majorca, in a dissertaiion on the antiquities of
that island, in the originals of these two inscriptions seve-
ral letters were entirety effaced, and spaces left, which M.
Serra thought he was able to fill up. The authenticity of
these two inscriptions is not proved. One may doubt also,
that they were found in the island of Majorca. It is from
this uncertainty that I have omitted giving them a place in
this work.

Several Roman inscriptions have been also discovered in
the island of Minorca, but most of them are so much ef-
faced that it is impossible to read a single word.

in one of these inscriptions only the first line can be
tinguished :

Q. CORNELIO...

It is a reasonable conjecture, that the rest of the inscrip-
tion express the gratitude of the islanders for the services
rendered them by this Roman.

Another, in better preservation, is consecrated to the
memory of Lucius Fabius :

L. FABIO. L F.

Q VIR

AED. II VIR. Ill

FLAMINI. DIVOR

AUG. R.P.MAG

OB. MULTA. EIUS

MERITA

This inscription is engraven on a grave-stone, which is
fixed into the wall of a house at Mahon.

According to Titus Livius, there was a city in the island
of Minorca, at the epoch of the punic war.

Pliny the elder, who wrote towards the end of the first
century of Jesus Christ, speaks of three cities which were
then in existence in the island of Minorca, and which were
called Magon, Jamnon, and Sanicera ; and, according to
St. Severus, bishop of Minorcaj the two first were founded
by the Carthaginians.

Several modern writers have followed the opinion of
bishop St. Severus ; others insist that one might with equal
justice give their foundation to the early Phoenician^, that
they might serve them for ports in the voyages they were
constantly making to Spain. To this day there have never
^een found any ancient medals of these cities in characters^

14£ ST. sauveur's tkayels.

either Phoenician or Carthaginian, which could assist to
decide the question.

Armstrong speaks of another city under the name of La-
bon, of which no vestige* remain to point out the place
where it had existed. According to that author, one might
suspect that the city was the same as the present Alayor ; the
modern name seems to assist the conjecture ; the consonants
b and v are often confounded in pronunciation by most of
the people of the South. Instead of Labon, it should be
pronounced Lavon, which might have in the course of
time been pronounced Laion, then Laior, and at length
Alaior. This etymology may seem ingenious, but it docs
not account for the silence of ancient writers on the exist-
ence of Labon.

Neither does there remain any traces of the place where
Sanicera, a city mentioned by Pliny, was situated. It is
conjectured that it was built on the shore of the port For-
nels ; but no discovery has been made to support this
opinion.

It is certain that the Minorcans were in the pay of the
Carthaginians, and signalized themselves in the wars which
they had to sustain ; it is therefore the more surprising, that
in the number of Carthaginian medals which are found in
the island of Minorca, there are none which were struck at
the epoch of the foundation of the three cities, whose
names ancient writers have transmitted to us. Jt is, how-
ever, not impossible that such medals may yet be found in
some future researches. It is not long since Phoenician,
Celtiberian, and Roman medals, were found in Spain, of
which there was no prior knowledge.

As for the antiquities belonging to the time of thp Moors,
there are still to be seen at Majorca some ruins of buildings
which are in tolerable preservation. The country house
belonging to an individual at Eufabia, was formerly, ac-
cording to general opinion, a pleasure house of a Moorish
prince, who reigned over part of ihe island ol Majorca. In
fact, the ancient part of this habitation has all the charac-
ters of the construction and ta>te of the Arabs, both in the
architecture and ornamental parts.

Over the gate of the convent of St. Marguerite, may he
seen a stone bearing an inscription, the characters of which
are Arabic ; but they are so much effaced that it cannot be
read.

The monks of La Merci preserve a vase which tbey say

HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS. 143

belonged to the time of the Moors ; it is a sort of earthen
ware.

At Minorca are the ruins of a Moorish castle, on Mount
Agatha. Over the gate of one of the towers is an inscrip-
tion in the Arabic language, but there remains only some
almost effaced traces.

On an arch which is at the east extremity of the parish
of Mahon, is to be seen the following inscription in Gothic
letters:

XVI FEBROARII

ANNO. DNI. MCCLXXXVf.

PO. PRESA. LA. YEA. DE. MENORCA.

R. N. A. M.

NOS. BON REY. D' ARRAGO.

This inscription, which I have copied in more intelligible
characters, refers to the conquest of the island, on the lbth
of February, 1286, by Alphonso, king of Arragon. It set-
tles to a certainty the epoch of that conquest.

Near the centre of the city of Mahon are the remains of
a gate, which is manifestly Arabic ; it serves as an entrance
to a street called the Old Ravalle.

There is no doubt but that the Moors, during the time
of their dominion in the Balearics, built a number of
mosques and other edifices which have been destroyed by
time, and probably more by the fanaticism of religion, at
the epoch when Christianity was established in the island.
The custom of the Moors of using stones of an enormous
size iu the construction of their buildings, which were
placed one on another, without regularity, and almost
such as they found them on the earth, or as, they dug them
out of the quarries, strengthens the opinion that they were
the authors of most of the athalaias, or watch-towers, which
are found in the island of Minorca.

CHAP. XIII.

HISTORICAL SKETCH Of THE BALEARICS ANP PITHIUSES.

Before X HE most ancient names by which the Balearics

Cjinst. ancj pithiuses were known, all of a Phoenician or

Greek origin, leaves no doubt but these people were

144

Before
Christ.

ST. SAUVEURS TRAVELS!.

C*

663.

406

276.

250.

the first tliat settled there. This opinion is con-
firmed by Strabo. According to this author, the Boeo-
tians and the Rhodians, a short time after the famous
siege of Troy, came and established colonies in the
Balearics.

The Carthaginians, masters of the Pithiuses, at-
tempted to invade the Balearics, but they were not
able to stand against a shower of stones hurled with
astonishing celerity by the islanders whose principal
weapon was the sling.

They renewed the enterprize, and were not more
fortunate in a second expedition, which was from
the ports of Sicily.

Himilcon and Han no, Carthaginian generals,
in going from Carthage to Spain, arrived at the Ba-
learics ; they did not attempt to land by force of
arms, but presented themselves%as friends : subtil in
their conduct ; the mildness of their manners con-
ciliated the minds of the inhabitants, who seemed to
be untameable, yet they submitted without resistance.
to a yoke thus presented with demonstrations of
friendship. They saw with satisfaction the settle-
ments which their new guests busied themselves in
forming. The Carthaginians laid the foundations of
two cities in the island or Minorca, to which they
gave the names of their most famous generals. —
Magon built Mahon, and Hanno founded Jamnon,
or Jama.

The natives of these islands took a part under the
banners of the Carthaginians, and five hundred re-
nonwed slingers followed them for the first time,
when they went to Sicily, to punish the Agrigen-
tines for their treachery ; they continued their ser-
vices in the army which marched against Denys,
the tyrant of Syracuse. In this second expedition,
these islands furnished a new reinforcement of three
hundred slingers. These troops signalized them-
selves, and had the greatest share in the success of
the Carthaginians. Hanno, in the entire conquest
of Sicily, received succours from the Balearics, which
determined the victory in his favour.

These islanders served with the same zeal in the
expedition of the Carthaginians against Pyrrhus,
whom they compelled to abandon Sicily.

Conquerors of the Romans, the Carthaginians re-

CONQUESTS BY THE ROMAN'S. 145

flefore turned in triumph to Majorca, puffed up with their
Christ, victories, they behaved with arrogance, and con-
ducted themselves in such a manner as to cause the
inhabitants to revolt, take up arms and drive them
out of the island. Hamilcar, by his mildness
calmed the resentment of the islanders, and they
renewed their connection with the Carthaginians.
Three hundred Majorcans fought at the famous bat-
tle against Consul C. Luctacius; a battle which,
made the Romans masters of Sicily, and terminated
the first Punic war.

Hannibal commenced the second. At the siege
of Sagontia, this general reckoned in his troops
eleven hundred and fifty slingers, from among the
inhabitants of the Baleares. These islanders were
in his service when he carried his forces into the
heart of Italy, and had always a distinguished share
in his victories.
814 The Romans having passed into the continent of
Spain, Cneus Scipio, master of the sea, failed in an
cnterprize against Ivica. He was more fortunate
at Majorca, whose inhabitants received him, join-
ed their forces to his troops, and fought nnder his
banners against the Carthaginians, who had the
Minorcans on their side, and had considerable suc-
cours from them, which they payed for, as they had
done before, by giving them women and wine, which
formed the predominant passions of these islanders.

The Carthaginians driven from the peninsula,
the Majorcans recovered their former liberty ; but
they only made use of it to give themselves up to
piracy. Their excesses attracted the attention of
the Romans ; the consul Quintus Cecilius Metellus
set out with a fleet to put a stop to their depreda-
tions.

This general, on his appearance before Majorca,
had taken the precaution of covering the outside of
his vessels with leather; this sort of 'barricado dead-
ened the force of the stones which were hurled by
the slingers, and made them of no effect. Quintus
Cecilius Metellus conquered the whole of the island,
which obtained him the honours of victory, and the
surname of Balearicus. Before his ceparture from
Majorca he founded the cities of Palma and Pol-
lenza, giving them the title of colonies. This gene*

ST. SAUVEUR-] T

140 ST. sauveur's travels.

ral added to the two thousand Romans which he left
on the island, three thousand others, which he sent
for from the continent.
After The islander* continued faithfully attached to the
Uiriht. republic, and their slingers served in its armies all
the time that they enjoyed the blessings of peace.
At the time when the republic was the prey of
internal divisions, and was distracted by the civil
wars, the Majorcans refused to take part with Ser-
torious, who came to invade Ivica, and joined the
party of Cneus Pompey, the son of Pompey the
Great, who defended the senate.

Majorca shared the fate of the Other provinces of
the republic subjected by Csesar, and remained un-
der the government of the successors of that con-
queror. The famous deputation sent to Rome by
the inhabitants of the Balearics, to implore the suc-
cour of some Roman legions against an extraor-
dinary number of rabbits which made devastation
among the wheat in the little island of Conejera,
was in the reign of Augustus.

These islands, always under the dominion of Rome,
made part of citerior Spain, and were dependant on
the jurisdiction of Tarragon until the end of the
reign of Constantine.

From the time of this emperor, until the death of
Theodosius the Great, these isles had a particular
government, the principal seat of which was at Ma-
jorca.
427 The division of the empire ; the imbecility of
Honorius; and the ambition of Saint-Hilicon, open-
ed the gates of Spain to Gunderic, king of the Van-
dals, and made these islands an easy conquest.

The Africans, ever eager for conquest, having
vanquished the continent of Spain, attempted seve-
ral times to make themselves masters of the Balearic*;
and, after failing in many entei prizes, at length
succeeded. The possession of these islands consider-
ably augmented their marine forces. Their vessels
began to infest the seas, and to exercise an insulting
superiority. Charlemagne armed his forces against
these pirates, and vanquished the barbariaus, de-
stroyed their fleets, and took the islands from them.
857 Nevertheless, they soon recovered the possession of
them; but were not able to prevent a party of Nor-

ATTACXS of the afrians. 147

After man adventurers effecting a landing on the island of

Christ. Majorca, where they committed many depredations.
993 The Africans, become the peaceable possessors of
the Balearics, fitted out an expedition to Catalonia.
Twice they besieged Barcelona, and at length took
the place, after a battle, where Count Don Borellos
lost his life.

1102 Count Don Armengol met the sa;me fate in an
enterprize which he attempted against Majorca.

1108 The Africans had arrived at such a degree of
power, that they were become absolute masters of
the sea. Puffed up with their successes, and depend-
ing on their force, they no longer kept any mea-
sures, but practised every species of robbery and
piracy. Their audacious excesses excited the re-
sentment of all the christian powers. The Pisans
first armed against them, took from them the island
of Ivica, and possessed themselves of part of the
island of Majorca.

1115 The Africans having again possessed themselves
of Majorca, Don Raymond Beringer the Third,
Count of Barcelona, having assembled some troops,
came and attacked the island, of which he subjected
the greatest part, after taking the capital. Obliged
to return immediately to his own estates, he con-
fided the keeping of his recent conquest to some Ge-

1147 noese, who sold it to the Barbarians; who, again
masters of the island, began their depredations

1178 afresh on the coast of Spain, and particularly in-

1204 fested Catalonia. Don Raymond, Count of Bar-
celona and Prince of Arragon, seconded by the
King Don Alphonso the Second, and Don Pedro,
his son, took up arms and prepared an expedition
against the Balearics, but it was not carried into
.effect.
1229 The Barbarians continued their piracies, and de-
solated the shores of the continent, and at length
excited the indignation of Don Jayme, the son of
the king of Arragon ; which young prince formed
the plan of taking the Balearics from these proud
Africans, whose continual depredations alarmed and
impoverished the neighbouring nations. Don Jayme
assembled an army of sufficient force for the enter-
prize which he meditated. He sailed from Salona, a
port of Catalonia, to the shores of Majorca, where
T3

118 ST. SAUVEURS TRAVELS.

After be effected the landing of his troops, although "he

Christ. juet wit|j st,ong resistance from the Africans. He
soon attacked them in a second battle, in which he
lost Don Raymond de Moncade, one of his gene-
rals, in whose valour and experience he had great
confidence, At length, after a number of actions
of less importance, and alter a siege, where the
Moors performed prodigies of v*alour, the gates of
Majorca were opened, and the rest of the island
soon submitted to the force of arms, Don J ay me
divided the lands between the noblemen who had
accompanied him and assisted his conquest. Some
Barbarian families remained in the island, and re-
tained in part their possessions.

J230 Pon J ay me, after having settled the administra-
tion of the island of Majorca and established a go-
vernor, and after having given his orders for the
building of the cathedral church, returned to his
estates on the continent. But soon the preparations
pf the king of Fez, who threatened the invasion of the
island, the loss of which he so much regretted,

J232 brought Don J ay me again to Majorca; who, when
the alarm had subsided, returned to the continent.
The conspiracies of a certain number of Moors who
remained in the island, the disturbances they had
excited, recalled once more Don J ay me to Majorca,
This handful of rebels returned to their duty; and
the prince sent deputies to Minorca, to engage the in-
habitants to place themselves under the jurisdiction
of his laws. The Minorcans consented to become
tributary to the crown of Arragon. The two islands of
the Balearics then passed as a feudal tenure from the
crown of Arragon, tinder the dominion of Don

.244 Pedro, Infant of Portugal, the son of Don Sancho
the First, who, at the same time, added the island
of Ivica to his possessions. The imbecility of
3)on Pedro soon changed the fortune of the isles,
Don Jayme was again in possession of his rights;
and Majorca had for the fourth and kist time the
good fortune to regain its sovereign. This prince
consulting £ love of glory, and the indulgence
of a perhaps ill-judged devotion, formed the plan

^269 of an expedition to the Holy Land. He assembled
\i\s troops, and the island of Majorca furnished ftve
tfiousaiic} men and three men, pf \yar<

CONQUEST OF MINORCA, 149

After Don Ja3rme, when he died, divided his possession*

Chnst. between njs iwo SOns. Don J ay me the Second had

1^7-> for jjig share the Balearics and Pithiuses, and part of

the estates on the continent. The will of Don

Jayme the First, surnamed the Conqueror, gave hiin

the independant tide of king.

To appease the resentment of Don Pedro, his
eldest son, the prince, consented to acknowledge
himself his vassal. Don Pedro having, in the mean
time, undertaken an expedition against Africa,
touched atMinorca, and endeavoured to gain over the
governor of that island, who was feudatory of Don
1185 Jayme. This governor pretended to enter into the
views of the king of Arragon, and engaged to give
up to him the island of which he had the govern-
ment ; .but, in the mean time, lie informed the king
of Majorca of all the manoeuvres of his brother.
Don Pedro swore to be revenged for this perfidy;
declared open war against Don Jayme ; raised an
army, and prepared to invade his territories; but
death surprized- him at the moment when his plans
of vengeance were ready be to put in execution.
1286 Don Pedro dying, left his crown to Don Al-
J 287 phonso, his son ; and at the same time transmitted
to him his hatred against Don Jayme. Alp.honso
carried into effect the intentions of his father, and
invaded the Balearics and Pithiuses.

The conquest of Minorca cost him more trouble
than any of the rest of. the islands. He met with an
obstinate resistance on his landing. The Moors aiir
ticipated the time of his coming, and waited for biui
on the shore. After a bloody battle, he succeeded
in driving before him the troops of the almoxariffe,
or Moorish governor. They, however, continued
fighting as they retreated, and gained the fort on
Mount Agatha, where they defended themselves.
Alphonso soon besieged it ; but, after having with-
out effect performed prodigies of valour, and de?
spairing of taking the castle by force, he formed the
resolution of reducing it by famine. The garrison
were almost without provisions, and could not re-
ceive any from Africa ; they therefore offered to
capitulate, The conditions were, that those Moor?
who could pay their ransom should have the liberty
of returning to Africa, and that the resjt should be

160 ST. sauveur's travels.

After reduced to slavery. The fort of Saint-Agatha was
Christ. given Up tne ]ytn of January 1287. The ahnoxariffe,
his family, and, at most, about a hundred of the
most distinguished Moors embarked, and were lost
on their passage. The remainder of the Moors, to
1898 the number of about twenty thousand remained in
slavery. Alphonso divided the lands of the van-
quished between those who had seconded him in his
enterprize ; and Christianity was the only religion
tolerated in the island.

Alphonso, who was not more than twenty-seven
years of age, died at the moment when he began to
enter into an arrangement with Don Jayme, his
1311 uncle. Don Pedro the Second, of Arragon, the
successor of Alphonso, in compliance with the soli-
citations of many powerful princes, reinstated his
grand-uncle in his estates ; but exacted of him, that
he should acknowledge himself his vassal.

Don Jayme reigned peaceably till his death. His
eldest son having retired into a cloister, his crown
passed to Don Sancho, his second son. Don Fer-
dinand, the third son, was gone to the east with
those troops out of Catalonia, who were as cele-
brated for their exploits, as for the unfortunate fate
they there met with. Don Sancho reigned without
disturbance, in spite of the manoeuvres of his ene»
mies, who endeavoured to displace him, and to pre-
judice him with the court of Sarragossa. This prince
ended his days in 1325. ft was in the same reign
that they fix the martyrdom of the good Raymond
Lully, whose name is mentioned to this hour with
the greatest veneration by the islanders.

Don Jayme, the son of Don Ferdinand, and ne-
phew to Don Sancho, ascended the throne. Don
Jayme, of Arragon, taking advantage of the mino-
rity of this prince, set up fresh pretentions to the
kingdom of Majorca. The young monarch con-
sented to hold his crown under him, and thus ler-
1328 minated all disputes; he also furnished troops in an
expedition against Sardinia.

Don Jayme, of Arragon, when he died, left his
crown to Don Alphonso the Fourth, father-in-law
to Don Jayme, king of Majorca, who also held his
kingdom under him. . After the death of Don Al-
phonso, of Arragon, the." king of Majorca sent some

CONQUEST OF; MAJORCA, 15l

After succours to the princes of the continenj, whom Al-

Chnst. bohag^jjj who remained master of a part of Spain,'

had compelled to take up arms. A squadron of

eight galleys, well armed, went from the ports of

Majorca, and carried a reinforcement of troops.

Don Pedro, who had ascended the throne of Ar-
ragon, contrived the ruin of the king of Majorca ;
he first declined his assistance to support him in his
disputes on the subject of the principality of Mont-
pell ier, for which the king of Majorca had refused

i339 to pay homage to the king of France; and taking
advantage of the embarrassment of his brother-in-
law, deprived him of all his estates on the continent.
He concealed his ambition by accusing Don Jayme
of not having appeared before the court to which he
had been cited ; and thence took occasion to declare
that he had forfeited his right to the crown. He
v even went so far as to accuse Don Jayme of having
had, on former occasions, a design of seizing his
person. Resting on these motives, Don Pedro

3343 raised an army, landed at Majorca, conquered the
troops of Don Jayme, and took possession of the
whole island, which be added to the crown of Ar-
ragon.

1349 Don Jayme, thus reduced to the last extremity,
implored succour from France, and obtained from
thence some troops, with which he landed in the
island of Majorca; but he lost his life in an action
where he fought desperately. This prince was the
last of the independant kings who reigned at Ma-
jorca.

1351 The Balearics, thus added to the crown of Arra-
gon, the islanders furnished troops in all the wars
which that power had to sustain. Their ships made
part of the naval force which the king of Arragon
sent to sea against the Genoese ; and the Majorcans
contributed not a little to the defeat of these repub-
licans before Constantinople.

Peter of Castile, irritated by the captures made
"by the Majorcan fleet, or at any rate making it his
pretext, declared war against the king of Arragon,
and appeared first with his squadron before Barce-
lona ; but being compelled to retire by the army of
Arragon, his fleet attempted, without success, a
cowp de main, on the island of Ivica, but was soou

152 st. satjveur's travels.

■After obliged again to retire, on hearing that the king of
Christ. j\rrag0n had proceeded to Majorca, and pursued
him with a superior force.

This war, in which the Majorcans played a prin-
cipal part, drained them of hoth men and money ;
and cost them 140 large vessels, which they lost in
different engagements.
1375 However, Don Jayme, king of Naples, the son
of the last king of Majorca, endeavoured to regain
the possession of the estates of his ancestors. The
differences between Arragon and France, the troubles
■which disturbed Castile, all seemed to favour his
plans, when death put a stop to his views, in the
year 1375.

The date of the celebrated Balearic clock, which
belongs to the town-hall at Palma, answers to this
epoch. Many absurd stories have been related by
different authors on the subject of this clock, which
by some is supposed to have been brought from
Babylon or Jerusalem, in times as remote as the days
of Solomon. This piece of mechanism may cer-
tainly be considered as one or the most ancient of
the kind.

In ]3g], the Jews experienced in Spain a most
cruel persecution, which extended to those who
•were settled at Majorca, and the quarter of the
town which was inhabited by these people, was pil-
laged without mercy.

Four years after this, Don John, of Arragon, fly-
ing from the plague, which ravaged the kingdom of
Valencia and Catalonia, took refuge at Majorca ;
and died there a year after his arrival.

In 1398, the court of Arragon armed to make re-
prisals on the Algerine corsairs. The fleet which
sailed from the ports of Majorca consisted of seventy
sail, of which thirty-five belonged to Valencia and
Catalonia; the other thirty-five were fitted out by
the Majorcans. Their cruise was on the coasts of
Africa, the shores of which they ravaged to a great
extent, and retired in the autumu, enriched with
many considerable prizes.

From the year 1S94 to 1404, the island of Majorca
experienced a sterility; the miseries of which they
could but little mitigate by the succours they ob-
tained from the neighbwHiryg countries. Majorca al-

DECISION ofr THE CBOWN. 151

After drained of men and money, by the continual contrn
Christ. kmions yyjth which they supplied the king of Arra*
gon in the several wars, began sensibly to decline in.
power and splendour. The progress of the Africans,
who. had freed themselves from the tribute which
was payed by the cantons of Tunis, Bugis, and Con-
stantine; the increase of their trade, and their fre-
quent incursions in the island, completed the ruin
of Majorca.

At the death of Don Martin, the last male of
the family of the Counts of Barcelona, several
princes laid claim to the possession of the Balearics.
Majorca was, at the time, die prey, of intestine dis-
sensions. In an assembly of the nobility, where
Saint-Vincent Ferrer was called to decide, the crown
was decreed to Don Ferdinand, Infant of Castile,
nephew of Don Pedro the Fourth, king of Arragon.
Saint Vincent Ferrer* whose opinion had decided
the suffrages in favour of the prince, dedicated him-
self to the service of the church, and preached the
tenets of religion in the island of Majorca. They
still preserve, in the cathedral of Pulma, the pulpit
of t^i s saint.

The commerce of the M; jorcans. continuing to
decline, the island soon felt the want of the grain
which they no longer imported; the harvests were
not sufficient to supply the wants of the people.
Majorca, torn by intestine commotions, was unable
to p<ty a considerable sum which was owing to Bar-
celona. The forces of the island were continually
drained by the supplies sent to Don Alphonso, of
Arragon, the son and successor of Don Ferdinand.
This prince had formed the enterprize of getting
himself crowned king of Sicily, after the death of
queen Jane. His army was defeated by the Ge-
noese, by whom he was made prisoner, as well as
the king of Navarre. This prince, released from
his imprisonment, again attempted the conquest of
ISaples. The Majorcans furnished him with four
galleys and thirteen hundred soldiers.

Under these unhappy circumstances, Majorca had
experienced new misfortunes : the country people
irritated with the burthens they had to bear, and
displeased with the pride and stiffness oil the nobi-
lity, entered into a confederation among themselves

3T. SAUVETJK.] U

154 ST. SAVVtUR'S TRAVELS. I

,Aft«r and hoisted the standard of revolt. The nobles

Christ. W€re compelled to take to arms. Don Alphonso
sent troops from Naples to quiet these disturb-
ances; but during three years there was a civil war
among the Majorcans; the ravages and desolation,
of which extended all over the country.

The families of different great houses on the con-
tinent had taken to arms, as had several princes
whose estates were situated near the Balearics. Don
John/ of Castile, fought against Don Henry, his
eldest son ; Don Charles, son of Don John of Na-
varre, attempted the crown of his father ; and

- > Charles, king of France, had to punish the revolt of
his son Louis.

1460 Alphonso, king of Arragon, died in those com-
motions, and left his dominions to John of Navarre,
his brother; Charles, son of John of Navarre, re-
tired to Majorca. The islanders made expensive
preparations for the reception of this prince, but
who, being at length restored to the favour of hi*
father, returned to Barcelona. His premature death,

: which was attributed to poison, was the cause of an.

insurrection in a part of the kingdom of John of

r , Navarre. The fury of revolution communicated
itself even to the island of Minorca. The Major-
cans, in this critical juncture, armed and furnished
a number of troops and ships for Don John. Thfe
insurrection of the Minorcans was quelled after a

1465 few skirmishes. Four squadrons were collected about
this time on the coasts of Arragon and Catalonia.
The first, consisting of twenty sail, was fitted out
by the rebels. The second carried the French flag,
and seconded the operations of the first. The two
: others, fitted out by the Majorcans and Minorcans,
assisted the cause of Don John. .

1473 The Majorcans were scarcely extricated from
these ruiuous wars, when they were afflicted with
the plague, which was brought there by a merchant
-.- .. .ship from the Levant. This scourge almost deso-
lated the. island.

1479 Don Ferdinand, the Catholic, succeeded Don John
of Arragon in all his estates, and in the king-
dom of Castile. This prinee founded a university
at Majorca, which had the same laws, and enjoyed
3 the same, privileges, as that, at Lerida. During the

REVOLT AGAINST Ttt'E NOBILITY. 153

After whole of the reign of this monarch, the Majorcans
Christ. serve(i" under his colours with distinction. These
islanders signalized themselves at the taking of Gre-
nada and the conquest of Naples, and in the expe-
pedition of Don Pedro of .Navarre against the Af-
ricans. Ferdinand having prepared for his expedi-
tion to Naples, the Castilian lords refused to accom-
pany him in his voyage. Twenty of the richest
nobles of Majorca had attended Ferdinand at his
court. The islanders completed the signal services
which they had done this prince, in furnishing him
with fresh succours against Barbarossa, who be-
1483 sieged Buges, and was on the point of becoming its
master.

In the reign of the successor of Don Ferdinand,
the country people of Majorca again revolted, under
the pretext that they alone supported the expences
of the island ;»that the nobles, free from every tax,
exercised over them the greatest tyranny ; they
therefore took up arms, and forced the viceroy to
quit the island, and take refuge in lvica.

This second civil war was still more grievous than
the former. The people, thus given up without re-
straint to their passions, committed the greatest
excesses. The nobles, on their side, opposed them
with the most vigorous resistance. Alcudia offered
them an asylum, where they defended themselves
till the end of the troubles, which terminated with
the punishment of the principal rebels.

Internal peace being established in the island,
under the reign of Charles the Fifth, the islanders
became exposed to the incursions of the Barbarians.
Barbarossa, thirsting to be revenged for the loss of
Tunis and of his cruizers, appeared before Majorca
with a squadron of eleven galieys. The fires which
the islanders kept up on many points of the coast,
made Barbarossa believe that the victorious fleet of
the emperor was not far distant. Hence, fearing he
should be engaged in an action, where he had every
thing to risk, he thought proper to retire, and made
an attempt on Minorca, of which he made him-
sejf master.

In 1541, the emperor, having projected an expe-
dition against Algiers, assembled his naval forces in
the ports of Majorca, from whence he set sail. A

|$d ST. sauvetir's travels.

.After number of the Majorcan nobility embarked in bis
phrist. fleei# The expedition was not fortunate, but drew
on the islanders all the resentment of the Barbarians,
who determined to ravage the shores of Majorca;
and attempted several times, but without success, to
take possession of Alcudia and Polenza : they were
also repelled in an attempt to make a landing on the
side of Valdemr.sa and Andraiga.

For twenty \ears afterwards the island remained
at peace,- nor did any thing particular happen till
. 1662, when it again furnished 300 men for the war
against Portugal.
lG&5 During the y. hole of the reign of Charjes the Se«
cond, the island of Majorca was at peace with all
powers, but suffered perpetual divisions among the
magistrates and clergy concerning their privileges.
These differences occasioned many long debates,
and ruinous law suits.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the arch-
duke Charles subjected the whole of Arragoq. Ma-
jorca was given up to geheral Lach, who command-
ed a fleet of forty ships. The other islands also sub-
mitted to the house of Austria.

After the taking of Barcelona, marshal Berwick
gent the chevalier Ashfield, at the head of ten thou-
sand men, who took possession of Majorca. The
islanders made no resistance.

The Majorcans served in the war of succession,
but did not take any part, the detail of which would
be interesting. Ihe Marquis de St. Philippe, in
his Commentaries on the War of Succession, and
Quincy, in his Military History of the Reign of Louis
the Fourteenth, makes honourable mention of the
services of the Majorcans.

In 1708, the English, under the command of
major-general Stanhope, took possession of Majorca,
which they preserved by the treaty of Utrecht.

The Trench, commanded by marshal de Kichelieu,
took this inland from the English in the year 1756.

in 171)8, Minorca was given up to the English by
the Spanish governor.

The treaty of Amiens has again put Spain in pos-
session of this island.

RND OF ST. SAGVEVF.'S TKA7EL3.

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