Full text of "Travels in various countries of Europe, Asia and Africa"

TRAVELS

VARIOUS COUNTRIES

EUROPE ASIA AND AFRICA

E. D. CLARKE LL.D.

TART THE SECOND

GREECE EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND

SECTION THE FIRST

FOURTH EDITION

VOLUME THE THIRD

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR T. CADELL AND "W. DA VIES

IN THE STRAND
BY R. WATTS CROH N COURT TEMPLE BAR.

MDCCCXVII.

C sst

SECOND EDITION OF PART THE SECOND.

In this Edition a few corrections have been
made; and the " Jldditional Notes,'" which were
before placed at the end of the volume, have
been incorporated with the body of the work.
A valuable communication from Mr. Walpole,
upon the events which caused a revolution in
the Turkish Government, and led to the depo-
sition and death of Sultan Selim, after the
author s departure from Turkey, came too late
for insertion in the former edition ; but this
article is now introduced into the ^ppendix\

(l) See the Appendix, No. I.

PREFACE

FIRST SECTION OF PART THE SECOND

CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS ON THE

GEOGRAPHY OF THE HOLY LAND.

The Geography of the Country alluded to,
by the several names of Syria, Palccstine, the
Holy Land, the Land of Canaan, the Land of
■Judaea, and the Land of Promise, is so exceedingly
perplexed, that a few observations, written with
a view to its illustration, will, it is hoped, be
considered as an useful introduction to this
Part of the author's Travels, in which the survey
of that Country occupies a considerable share.
Its various appellations have been used indis-
criminately with reference to the same territory,
or they have been separately applied to its
different districts ; neither antient nor modern
* geographers being agreed as to the precise
limits intended by any one of them.

vi PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

According to some authors, Syria, Phoenice,
and Paliestine, were three distinct regions.
Others include, within the Syrian frontier, not
only Phcenice and Palcestine, but also Mesopotamia.
Strabo describes Syria as comprehending all
the country from Mount jimanus and the river
Euphrates to Arabia and io Egypt'. The word
Palcesiine occurs only once, incidentally, in all
his writings \ Yet the name was in use above
four centuries anterior to the Christian sera, as
appears by several passages in the text of
Herodotus % who describes Palc^stine as that
country which reaches from the borders of Egypt
as far as Phcenice. Pliny separates the two
countries of Phcenice and Palestine in more than
one instance*. Phocas, who visited the Holy
Land in the twelfth century % and wrote the
account of it so highly esteemed by Leo

(0 Slrahon. Geog. lib.xvi. p. 10G3. ed. Oxo7i. 1807-
(2) Lib. xvj. p. 1 103. ed. Oxon. It is found in the following authors,
according to the references which I have collected from HelanrTs
Palasline, c. 7. Dlo Oissius, Uh.21. Photius in Biblioth. p.\3\].
Julian, in lib. contra Christian. Flav. Fb/risci^s in P'it. Aureliani. Sfatiif.i
Si/lv.lib.3. cai-tn. 2. Sillies Ital. lib. 3. Ovid, in Fastis. Idem, Metain.
lib. 4, et 5.

(.3) Hercdot. Clio, 105. Thalia, 5. Poh/hymn. 8.

(4) * Namque Pal(Fstina voeabatur qua contigit Arahus, et Jitdcra,
et Ccele, de'in Fha;nice." Plin. Hist. Not. 1.5. c. 12. "Finis Pahps-
tine.'i centum octoginta novem raillia passuum, a confiuio Arabia :
deiuda Phcenice." Ibid. c. 13. L. Bat. 1635.

(5) A.D. 1185.

OF PART THE SECOND. vii

ALLATIUS^ evidently distinguishes Pakestine
both from Galilee and Samaria''. Brocardus, who
travelled a century after Phocas, with equal
perspicuity and brevity* extends the boundaries
of Syria from the Tigris to Egypt; separates
Phcenice from Palcestiney but considers both these
countries as belonging to Judcea and Samaria,
into which kingdoms the Holy Land was divided
after the time of Solomon^. Considering there-
fore Palestine as a part of the Holy Land,
he divides it into three parts ; the first being
Palcestine, properly so called, whereof Jerusalem
was the metropolis ; the second, Palcestine of
CiBsarea', and the third, Palcestine of Galilee.
Adrichomius'", who professes to follow Brocar-
dus", considers the Land of Canaan, Palcestine,
and the Holy Land, as names of the same

(6) '* Autor elegans et accuratus, prout ilia ferebant tempora, visus
est." Leon. Allat. Pr<pfat.%n'2vfife.ixTa. Co/om. 1653.

(7) A=|(as ji*£v Itrriv h Kdp/i-/i\os xa) h -ra^aXio; "raffuv tw TlaXxiimr/is, vu,
is ivuvvfitx, retvTvs Trj" VuXiXaiuv xa.) <r>iv '^a[jt,dpta,)) t^outi. Urbis dcxterse
partes Carmelum et Maritimam Palastina oram, siiiistr£B Galilcram et
Samariavi liabeiit." Phocas de Loc. tlyricE, Pftocniciee, et Palcestincf,
cap. 9,

(8) Locorum Terras Sancta; Descriptio. Basil. 1537. Brocardus
travelled in the year 1283. See Egmont and Heyman's Travels, vol. II.
p. 236. Lond. 1759.

(9) " Post tempus Salomonis in duo regna excrevit: unum regnum

t/wrf^ dicebatur alterura vero regnum Samarice vocabatur."

Ibid.

(JO) Theatrum Terra: Sancta. Colon. 1628.
(ll) Ibid, in Prirfat. pp. 1, et3.

viii PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

country \ In this he is not accurate ; and the
same remark may be applied to the writings
of Cellarius, when he uses the expression
'' Palcestina, sen Terra Sancta ;' thereby making
Palcestine include all Phoenice, which it never did ;
although Phoenice was comprehended in the
- territory called Terra Sancta, or the Holy Land.
PalcesfAne differed from the Holy Land, as a part
may be said to differ from the whole. Bro-
CARDUs evidently considers the first as being a
part of the second ^ Upon this account the
author has preferred the name of Th e Holy Land,
as being the only general appellation which caii
be said classically to comprehend the whole of that
territory, distinguished as the Land of Promise
to the Israelites, and by the Passion of Jesus
C HRLST*. It has been erroneously supposed that
the appellation " Terra Sancta" originated in
the writings of Christians; who indefinitely
applied it to that district of Syria which had

(1) Theatrum Terra- Sancta; p. 1, Colon. 16^8.

(2) Ci?//ar. Geog. Antiq. passim. Vid. cap.xii. lib. 3. " De Si/rid,"
cap. xiii. " De Palcestind, quas et Chanaan, et Terra Sancta; &c."
torn. n. Lips. 1706.

(3) Bishop Pocoche, in bis Description of the East, considers the two
expressions as synonymous. See vol. W.part 1. ch. 1. Lond. 1745.

(4) " Duplici ratio?ie nomen Terra- Sancta; iiuic regioni trihuitur,
aliter a Judais, aliter a Otristianis." Reland. De Nomine Terra
Sancta. Vid. Thesaur. Jntiq. Ugol. vol. VL cap. 4. Hadriani Relandi
Palmstina, Ven. 1746.

OF PART THE SECOND. ix

been rendered memorable for the sufferings of
our Saviour; but the name existed before
the Christian sera. The epithet of Holy had
been apphed to every thing connected with
the Jewish people ; among whom, not only their
cities, their priests, and their temple, bore this
epithet, but their whole territory, by way of
eminence, was pecuHarly considered as *' Holy
Land'' That Fhcenice was included within its
boundaries, is evident from the book oi Joshua^
which extends the borders of the tribe of Asher
from Carmel unto Sidon. Hence Maundrell
judiciously observes ^ "Near about Sidon begin
the precincts of the Holy Land, and of that part
of it in particular which was allotted to Asher.'
Phcenice is thus proved to have constituted a
portion of the Holy Land; and that Palcestine
did not include Phcenice is decidedly manifest
from a passage in HER0D0TUS^ wherein Phoe-
nice, PaliPstine, and the Island of Cyprus, are
separately enumerated. Cluverius, defining

(5) Joshua, xix. 24 to 31.

(6) Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, p. 45. Oxf. 1721.

(7) "Efl'Ti Se £v TM vouM Tourai <t>amxn rs ^offcc »ai 'Svl/i i HaXaKxr'.vyt
icuXiof/Ayti no.) Kv'T^ii;, Thalia, cap. 9 1 .

Reland has cited a passage from a most antient flebrew commentaiy
upon Genesis, wherein a similar distinction is, as decisively, marked :
Et erat fames in omnibus terris, sc. in tribus terris, Phoenicia [Uajam
turn scribehunt, barbate, 2»'o Plucnice), Arabia, et Palestina." Relandi
Pal(Estina, cap. 7. ia Thesaur. Antiq. Sacrar. torn. VI. 33, 34. yenet.
1746.

PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

the boundaries of Palcestine, begins by marking
a line of separation between that country and
Phoenice '.

Among later writers, some have extended
the boundaries of Palestine, and others have
circumscribed the limits of Syria. D'Anville*
considers the former as including the whole
of Phoenice, with all the western side of Anti-
Lihanus and Herman; and Mentelle, editor
of the j4ntient Geography publislied in the
French Encydopedie, confines the latter to that
part of Asia which has — the Mediterranean on
the west; Mount Taurus, the river EuphrateSy
and a small portion of Arabia, on the east ; and
the Land of Judcea, or Palcestine, on the soiuh\
D'Anville had considered Juda-a merely as
a province of Palcestine. In fact, the several
additions to the number of observations pub-
lished concerning this part of Asia seem rather
to have increased than diminished the uncer-
tainty respecting the geography of the country.
** Tanta est,'' says Seldex, '' inter profanas et
sacras liter as in regionum Jinilus discrepantia.

(1) "Palsestina cZ«?^f/<7M7- a Septentrione Phcenice." Cluvei: Geog.
lib. V. e. 20. p. 588. Amst. 1729.

(2) Voy. Carte tie la Pulastine, par H' Anville. Par. 1767.

(3) EnKvclop. Mt'thodique, Geog. Aik-. tor.i. III. P«r. 17D2.

OF PART THE SECOND. ' xi

Neque in Syrice duntaxat nomine, sed in Judcece et
Palcestinte. Jud(Fos, ut par est, sen Ehrceos a
Palcestinis ubique separamus, ita et Scriptura. Sed
Ploleinao, Straboni, Tacito, Syria Palcestina eadem
ipsa est, quce Judcea : aliis diversce sunt ; sic Ebrcei a
Palcestinis disterminantur\'" This discrepancy
characterizes even the writings of the learned
Cellarius, who, at an earUer period, opened
his treatise D3 Syria with marlcs of the
indecision perplexing the sources of his infor-
mation \ Dr. Wells, in his " Historical
Geography of the Old and New Testament,"
restricts Syria within much narrower limits
than those assigned for it by Mentelle;
excluding all Phoenice and the Holy Land.
*^ Although," says he^ " Heathen authors do
sometimes include the Holy Land as a part
of Syria, yet by sacred writers it is always
used in a more restrained sense; and in the
New Testament, as a country distinct, not only
from the Holy Land, but also from Phoenice,

(4) Seidell then quotes from Statins, Syl. V.

Palastini simul Ebraiqiie liquores."
/ id. Seldeni Prolegomena ad Syntagina de Diis Syris.

(oj He is speaking of Pliny. " Almis la.cejines ponit Syrits: sed in
hoc Melam suum sequutus erat, qui prope iisdem verbis, lib. i. cap. 1 1 .
recitavit. Et ex hac opinione vidctur emanmse, ut multi scriptores
Syriam et Assyrium pertnisceaiit uc confundant." Cellar. Geoj. Antiq.
lib. iii. cap. 12. p. 393. Lips. 1706.

(6) Histor. Geog. of the Old and New Tei^, vol. II. p. 139. O.if. 1 801 .

xii PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

and of which the coasts of Tyre and Sidon wer§
the southern part; so that by Syria, m the New
Testament, is to be understood the country
lying to the east and north-east of the Holy Land,
betv.'een Phoenice and the Mediterranean Sea to
the west, and the river Euphrates to the east.''

Under all these circumstances, although there
may be something more suited to existing pre-
judices in the use of the word Pal^estineS the
author believes that he is accurate in considering
The Holy Land as an appellation of a more exten-
sive, although not a less definite, signification ^
He also believes that he is the more justified
in adopting this latter name, as distinguished
from the former, because he thereby adheres
to the clue afforded by the observations of
Brocardus; an author held in the highest
estimation, by men who have written most learn^
edly upon the countr}"- to which these observa-
tions refer. Brocardus was doubly qualified,

(1) ** Pal(Estin<E nomen, quod nobis prs reliquis placuit, quum hnic
operi tituluni daremus," says Reland, with reference to his inestimable
work, " Palastina Illustrata."

(2) Fullei', la \m '^ Pisgah'Sight of Palcestine," perhaps intending
a sly satire upon the age (for it was published in the be^nning of th«
reign of Charles the Second), refrains from calling it the Holy Land^
through fear of being thought superstitious : " Lest," as he quaintly
expresseth it, " whilest I call the land holy, this age count me super-
stitious." See Book I. c. ii. p. 2. Lond. 1650.

OF PART THE SECOND. xiii

both by the evidences of ocular demonstration
in that part of Asia, and a thorough knowledge
of all that sacred or profane writers have said
upon the subject, to ascertain its geography
with ability and with precision: " Eum ferh
semper secutus sum, quod persuasissimum haherem,
nonfuisse unquam, qui voluerit magis aut vero etiam
potuerit melius, perfectam et simplicem quandam ad
hujus rei cognitionem viam sternere^y

The boundaries of Palcestine are physically
defined by the face of the country : the distinc-
tion is, to a certain extent, yet maintained
among the inhabitants of Syria. Even at this
hour, the vast plain which extends westward
from the mountains oi Judcea, and is bounded
by the sea, bears the name of Phaiastin\ Ac-
cording to VoLNEY*, it ** comprehends the
whole country included between — the Mediter-
ranean to the 2uest ; the chain of mountains to
the east ; and two lines, one drawn to the south
by Kan Younes^, and the other to the north.

(3) Jdrtchomii Eulog. in Brocard. Vid. Theat. Terr. Sand, in
Pra/at.p.3. Cnlon. \6<2S.

(4) " This is the plain, which, uniler the name of Fulastin, or
Palestine, terminates on this side the country of Syria." Volney's
Travels, vol. II. p. 321. L<md. 1787.

(5) Ibid. p. 328.

(6) See Folneu's Map of Syria, as published in the English edition
•f his Travels, vol. I. p. 287. Lmd. 1787.

xiv PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

between Kaisaria and the rivulet of Yafa." The
whole of antient Phoenice is thereby excluded
from the boundaries of modern Paltestine, which
is still a district independent of every Pachalic'.
In the most antient periods of history, its boun-
daries were equally restricted; and if we
examine those records wherein the name first
occurs*, we shall be able to define its limits
with precision. The first mention of it is in
Genesis^ where it is stated that Isaac went unto
Ahimelech {Rex Palcestinorum'^) king of the Phi-
listines, unto Gerar ; and he is told not to go
into Egypt, but to sojourn in the land of the
Philistines {Palcrstine), and he dwelt in Gerar.
Now Gerar was situate in the district after-
wards occupied by the tribe of Judah, not far

(1) See /'o/wCT/V Map, ibid. p. 329.

(2) Tiie word Palastina signifies nothinj more than PhUistina.
St. Jerom often, and Josephus always, calls the Philistines Palastlni.
" PhUhtcoos autem, ut supra diximus, Palastinos significat." Hie-
ronymi Comment, in Esa. xiv. 29.

(3) Gen. xxvi. l.

(4) See the Latin Version by St. Jerom, as given in the [London
Polyglott Bible, Gen. xxvi. 1. where the Hebrew Philisti'im is translated
Palastinm-um ; only, in the copy referred to, this word is improperly
■nritten Palestinorum, and in some editions of the Vulgate, more erro-
neously, Palesthinormn. Reland(.De Nomine Palastince. Fid. Thesaur.
Antiq. Sacrar. UgoUni, v. 6.) says, that the name occurs in the oldest
Jewish writings, where it is written li^tool's]. This in the Greek is
always Tla>.aiffTU-/i, and not TlaXitrrUn. The Ronans, upon their medals,
sometimes wrote this word Palestina instead of Palaestina, as they
wrote JvDEA instead of Jvdaea. See Medals nf Vespasian, ^v.

OF PART THE SECOND. xy

from Hdrouy and between Hebron and Gaza\
Afterwards, in the book of Joshua^, where men-
tion is made of the five cities of Palcesdne, or
of the Philistines, the following are enume-
rated : Gaza, AzoiiLS, Ascalon, Geth or Gath, and
Accaron : all of these were comprehended within
that district which has Joppa to the north, and
Gaza to the south\ Of the most antient Hea-
then writers, Herodotus expressly states that
country to have been called Palestine which
extended from the boundaries of Egypt to those
oi Ph(£7iice^. Thus, having summed all the evi-
dence which can be adduced upon this point,
it may be manifest, that the use of the term
Paleestine, as applied to all that country origi-
nally called the Land of the Israelites, is a

(5) Gerar, or Gerara, is also mentioned in Genesis \. 15. but its
situation is precisely stated in Geiiesis \%.\. where j4ljruha)n, having
"journeyed towards the south country," is said to have " sojourned
in Gerar, between Kadesh and Shur." It formed with Gaza the
southern frontier of Palastine. The Desert of Chdes belong-ed to Egypt;
that of Sur to Arabia Pctraa,

(6) t/oi/j. xiii. 3. In 1 Satnuel, \i. 17. they are thus enumerated:
jizotus, Gaza, Ascalon, Gath, Accaron. See also Josephus, lib. vi.
Antiq. c. 1.

(") The boundaries of PhiUstaa, or Palastine, are thus defined by
Joshia, xiii. 3. "From Sifior, (the river; See Jeremiah ii. 18.) which
is before Egypt, e\en unto the borders of Ekron (Accaron) northward."

(8) Heiodot. in Polyhymn. That is to say, from Egypt to Joppa.
The Avhole country was maritime. " Situs regionis Philistaa est ma-
ritimus, ab Joppe ad Mgypti fines." Cellar, lib. iii. cap. 13. torn. II.
/. 595. Lips. 1706.

xvi PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

geographical error ; that its application is most
erroneous, when it is made to comprehend
Phoenice ' ; and, further, that the proper general
appellation is The Holy Land — a name applied
to it by Jeivish, as well as by Christian writers^.
Even Re LAND, who preferred the use of the
word Palcestina as a more sounding appellation
for the title of his book, says that Terra S ancta
is a name doubly applicable to the region his
work illustrates ^ And surely, so long as the
blessings of Religion diffuse their consolatory
balm of hope, and peace, and gladness, this
land may be accounted holy"— holy, as conse-
crated by the residence of the Deity through all
the ages of Jewish history — holy, as sanctified

(1) The Greeks, after the time of Herodotus, on account of the great
power of the Philistines, comprehended under the name of Palcestine
the four provinces of Idumcea, Judaa, Samaria, and Galilcca, although
never Phoenice, " quia scepe regionibus tribuuntur jiomina a parte
aliqud, qwB vicinas antecellit potentia." (Juaresmii Elueid. Terr. Sanct,
lib. \. c. 2. torn. \. p. 6. Anlv. 1639.

(2) See *' Exempla scriptoi-iim Judaicornm et Christianorum qui
Iwc nomen tisiirpant," as they are given by Reland, in his chapter
' DE Nomine Terrs Sancts.' Vid. Thesaurus Antiq. Sacrar. Ugo-
Uni, vol. VI. xvii, xviii.

(3) " Duplici ratione nonien Terra Sancta huic region! tribuitur,
aliter a Judteis, aliter a Christianis." Ibid.

(4) " Quis enim non rapitur in admirationem et stuporem, qui
Montem Oliviferum, Mure Tiberiadis, Jordanem, Hierosolymam, et
alia loca, quae Christum frequentAsse notum est, conspicit, et menti
suae praesentem sistit generis humani sospitatorem, illic ea operantem
aut passum, quae originem dedere sacris Christianorum ejus nomen
confitentium !" Thesaur. Antiq. Sac, Ugolitii, ibid.

OF PART THE SECOND. xvii

by the immediate presence and by the blood of
our Redeemer — holy, as the habitation of Pa-
triarchs, Prophets, and Apostles — " Quam ter-
RAM," to use the energetic language of Urban
THE Second, in his eloquent address to the
Council of Clermont, '' merito sanctam dixi-

MUS, IX QUA XOX EST ETIAM PASSUS PEDIS,
QUEM XON ILLUSTRAVERIT ET SAXCTIFICAVERIT
VEL CORPUS, VEL UMBRA SaLVATORIS, VEE
GLORIOSA PR.ESEXTIA SAXCTE DeI GeXITRICIS,
VEL AMPLECTEXDUS ApOSTOLORUM COMMEATUS,
VEL Martvrum SAXGUIS EFFUSUS,"

Yet, while the author is ready to acknow-
ledge the impression made upon his mind by the
peculiar sanctity of this memorable region, he is
far from being willing to enumerate, or to
tolerate, the degrading superstitions which, like
noxious weeds, have long polluted that land of
" milk and honey /' Those who have formed
their notions of the Holy Land, and particularly
of Jerusalem, from the observations of Adri-
CHOMius, Sandys, Doubdan, Maundrell,
Thevexot, or even from the writings of
Pococke, and the recent entertaining pilgrimage
of Mons. De Chateaubriand*, will find their

(o) Published in London, Oc/ober 1811, when this Volume was
nearly completed. The author has not yet seen the original French
edition of Mons. De CMicauhrlancT s work.

VOL. III. c

XVIU

PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

prejudices frequently assailed in the following
pages. The author has ventured to see the
country with other eyes than those of Monks ;
and to make the Scriptures, rather than Bede or
Adamnanus, his guide in visiting " the Holy
Places;' — to attend more to a single chapter,
nay, to a single verse, of the Gospel, than to
all the legends and traditions of the Fathers
of the Church. In perusing the remarks con-
cerning Calvary and Mount Sion, the Reader is
requested to observe, that such were the
author's observations, not only upon the spot,
but after collating and comparing with his own
notes the evidences afforded by every writer
upon the topography of Jerusalem, to which he
lias subsequently had access. It is impossible
to reconcile the history of antient Jerusalem with
the appearance presented by the modern city ;
and this discordance, rather than any positive
conviction in the author's mind, led to the
survey he has ventured to publish. If his
notions, after all, be deemed, by some readers,
inadmissible, as it is very probable they will,
yet even these, by the suggestion of new
documents, both in the account given of
the . inscriptions he found to the south of
what is now called Mount Sion, as well as of
the monuments to which those inscriptions
belong, may assist in reconciling a confused

OF PART THE SECOND. xix

topography ^ Quaresmius, stating the several
causes of that heretical kind of pilgrimage in the
Holi/ Land, whichhe describes as "profane, vitious,
and detestable",'^ certainly enumerates many of the
motives which induced the author to visit that
country, and therefore classes him among the

** NONNULLOS NEBULOXES OCCIDENTALES li^-

RETicos," whose remarks he had heard with so
much indignation^ But, in doing this, he
places him in company which he is proud to
keep, — among men, who do not believe them-
selves one jot nearer to salvation by their
approximation to Mount Calvary, nor by all the
indulgences, beads, rosaries, and crucifixes,
manufactured and sold by the craftsmen of Jeru-

(l) The generality of Readers, who have perused the different
accounts published concerning the Holy Land, have not perhaps
remarked the extent of the confusion yrevailing in the topographical
descriptions of Jerusalem ; probably, because they have not compared
those writings with any general plan of the city. To give a single
example : Almost cverj' traveller, from the time of Brocardus to that of
Mons. De Chateaubriand, mentions the "Mountain of Offence," where
Solomon sacrificed to strange gods. According to Brocardus and to
Adrichomius, this mountain is the northern point of the Mount of
Olives, {Fid. Brocard. Itin. 6. Adrichom. Theat. Terr. Sonet, p. 171.
Colon. 1G28.) and therefore to the east or north-east of the city. Maun-
drell, (/>. 102. Journ. from Alep. to Jerus. Oxf. 1721.) and also
Pococke, [Descrip. of the East, Plan facing p. 7- vol. 11. Lond. 1745,)
make it the southern point. Sandi/s {Trav. p. 186. Lond. 1637) places
this mountain to the south-west of the city.

(2) Quaresmius, " De externa profand, sed detestahili ac vitiosd pe-
regrinatione." Vid. EUuidatio Tenffi 5ancte, lib. iii. c.34. AntvAQZd.

(3) Ibid, lib.v. cap. 14.

PREFACE to flRST SECTION

salem — among travellers, who, in an age when
feelmgs and opinions upon such subjects were
manifestly different from those now maintained,
with great humbleness of spirit, and matchless
simplicity of language, " expected remission of
sin no other ways, but only in the name, and
for the merits, of our Lord Jesus Christ;" —
who undertook their pilgrimage, " not to get
any thing by it, as by a good work; nor to
visit stone and wood to obtain indulgence ; nor
with opinion to come nearer to Christ" by
visiting Jerusalem, " because all these things
are directly contrary to Scripture ; but to
" increase the general stock of useful know-
ledge,"' to '' afford the Reader both profit and
pleasure ; that those who have no opportunity
to visit foreign countries may have them before
their eyes, as in a map, to contemplate ; that
others may be excited further to inquire into
these things, and induced to travel themselves
into those parts ;" that they may be " instructed
in the customs, laws, and orders of men;"
that the '' present state, condition, situation,
and manners of the world may be surveyed and
described ; not by transcribing what others
have written," but by fairly stating what
" they have themselves seen, experienced, and
handled," so that their " pains and dihgence be
not altogether vain."

OF PART THE SECOND. xxi

Such were the motives, and such was the lan-
guage, of a traveller in the Holy Land, so long
ago as the middle of the sixteenth century^;
who, with the liberal spirit of an enlightened and
pious Protestant, thus ventured to express his
sentiments, when the bonfires for burning
heretics were as yet hardly extinguished in this
country. Writing live and thirty years before
Sandys began his journey"-, and two centuries
and a half before Mons. De Chateaubriand
published his entertaining narrative, he offers
an example singularly contrasted with the
French authors legendary detaiP; in which the

(1) See the Travels of L^onhart Rauwolff, a German physician,
as published by Ray, in 1693. The words included by inverted commas
are literally taken from Ray's translation of that work. {See the
Epht. to TVidthoUz, Christel, and Bemf.r. j^ko Trav. Part 3. chap. iv.
p. 290.) Rauwolff" was at Jerusalem in 1575. {See chap. viii. p. 315.)
The religious opinions he professed, and his disregard of indulgences,
roused the indignation of the monks, particularly of the learqed Quu-
resmius, a Franciscan friar, who wrote a most elaborate description of
the Holy Land, already cited. I'his was published at Jnticerp in 1639,
in two large folio volumes, with plates. Referring to the passages
here introduced from Rauwolff's book, Quaresmius exclaims, " Quid
amplius Rauchvvoljius ? Ecce in ipso Mnnlc Sion derepente in Prcedi-
cayitem transforniatus concionari cwpit, et ne turn insignem concionem
ignoraremus Uteris earn mandavit quam ex Germanico idiomate in
Latinum transtulit P. Gretserus, ut ad exteros quoque redimdet ; sedne

ohstat, illam etiam rejicit. j^udianius Alqni, 6 prwdicantice

Medice! recte prnj'ectu dicis ; nihil penitus peregrinafione tud, avt impe-
trcisti, aut meritus es >" Quarcsmii Elucid. Terr. Sanct, lib, iii. cap. 34.
torn. I. p. 836. Antv.\G^d.

(2) Sandys began his Journey in 16IO.

(3) " Here," says Mons. De Chateaubriand, " / saw, on the right,
the place where dwelt the indigent Lazarus ; and, on the opposite side of'

the

xxii PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

chivalrous' and bigoted spirit of the eleventh
century seems singularly associated with the
taste, the genius, and the literature, of the
nineteenth.

P.S. In the Preface to the First Part of
these Travels, some acknowledgment was made
to those who had assisted the author in the pro-
gress of his work-. This pleasing duty will now
be renewed. The interestino: Notices of the
Rev. Regixald Heber gave a value to the
former publication, which it could not otherwise
have possessed; and, in the copious extracts
which the author has here afforded, from the
classical journals of travellers already conspi-
cuous in the literary world, a similar advantage is
already anticipated. The Rev. Robert Walpole,

the street, the residence of the oldurate rich man." Afterwards he pro-
ceeds to state, that " St. Chrysostom, St. Ambrose, and St. Cvril, have
looked upon the history of Lazarus aud the rich man as not merely a
parable, but a real and well-known fact. The Jews themselves," says
lie, " have preserved the name of tlie rich man, whom they call Nuhal."
(See Travels in Greece, Palestine, &c. vol. II. pp. 26, 27. Land. 1811.
Mons.X>(? Chuteauhriand does not seem to be aware, that Nahal is an
appellation used by the Jews to denote any covetous person.

(1) See the interesting description given by Mons. De Chdteaulriand
of the Monkish ceremony which conferred upon him the order of
" a Knight of the Holy Sepulchre." Ibid. pp. 176, 177.

(2) See Preface to Part the First, pp. iv, v. Octavo Edition.

OF PART THE SECOND. xxiii

M.A. of Trinity College, Cambridge', has libe-
rally permitted the use of his written observa-
tions in Greece throughout tlie whole, not only
of the present, but also of the subsequent volumes.
Wherever reference has been made to those
observations, the author, consistently with his
former plan, has been careful to give Mr.
Walpole's intelligence in his own words, exactly
as they have been transcribed from his original
manuscript.

A similar obligation has been conferred by
J. B. S. MoRRiTT, Esq.** in the interesting
account taken from his Journal of the present
state of Halicarnassus and of Cnidus, and published
in the Notes to the Seventh Chapter ; also by
the plan which accompanies his description of
the Rui7is of Cnidus. This last communication
will peculiarly claim regard, in being the first

(3) Tlie learned author of Essays bearing his name in the Herculanensia.
4to. Land. 1810. See his former communications to this Yv'ork, Part
the First, vol. II. p. 354. Note (4.) Octavo Edition. IMr. Walpole is also
known as the editor of Comicorum Greecorum Fragmenta, and of other
dissertations equally remarkable for their taste and classical erudition.

(4) Celebrated for his controversy with the late Jacob Bryant, on the
subject of Homer's Poems and the War of Troy. It is to be regretted,
that so much of Mr. MorritCs Journals still remains unpublished ; parti-
cularly as they contain observations respecting a very considerable part of
Asia Minor, of which our information is remarkably deficient.

xxiv PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

authentic notice which has yet appeared con-
cerning the remains of a city once so renowned,
but whose vestiges have been unregarded by
any former traveller.

The only Plants mentioned in the Notes, are
those which have never been described by any
preceding writer. Not less than sixty new-
discovered species will be found added to the
science of Botany, in this and the subsequent
sections of Part the Second ; with many others of
almost equal rarity, in a General List, which is
reserved for the Appendix to the last of these
sections. In the account given of these plants,
and in their arrangement, the obligation due to
A. B. Lambert, Esq. was before acknowledged ;
but an individual, now unhappily no more, con-
tributed, although unknown to the author at the
time, so essentially to the completion of this
part of the work, that it were injustice to his
talents, as well as to the encouragement so
liberally bestowed upon his genius by his
benevolent Patron, not to cherish, even in this
frail record, the lamented memory of George
Jackson.

The Appendix to this Volume contains some
curious documents respecting Eastern Litera-
ture; for whose illustration the author has been

OF PART THE SECOND. XXV

indebted to two very learned Oriental scholars :—

Mr. Hammer, Secretary of the German Em-
bassy at Constantinople\ furnished an interpre-
tation of the List of Tales contained in a manu-
script copy of The Arabian Nights, which the
author obtained in Egypt, and to which allusion
is made in the Second Chapter*^.

The Rev. George Cecil Renouard, M.A.
Fellow of Sidney College, Cambridge, late Chap-
lain to the British Factory at Smyrna, contributed
the translation of a Catalogue of Manuscripts on
daily sale in the cities of the East ; which was
procured by the author through the friendly
offices of a Dervish in Constantinople. This Cata-
logue may be considered as presenting a better
view o^ Asiatic, than would be afforded oi Euro-
pean, literature, by combining two or three of
the common catalogues published by the prin-
cipal booksellers of London and Paris ; because
less variety characterizes the different catalogues
of the East, than will be found to distinguish

(1) Mr. Hammer accompanied the author in Egypt, and resided a
short time in Grand Cairo. He obtained in that city, of the celebrated
Consul Rosetti, an /^raftic Manuscript concerning Hieroglyphics, which
was afterwards published in England by Dr. jnikins.

(2) This beautiful Manuscript, contained in four quarto portfolios,
was damaged by the wreck of the Princessu merchantman, off Beackz/
Head. It has been sent to Constantinople to be transcribed, but liiLis
liopes are entertained of its entire restoration.

XXVI

PREFACE TO FIRST SECTION

those of diiFerent booksellers in Europe; the
same books bemg constantly on sale in Constan-
tinople, Smyrna, Damascus, Aleppo, and Grarid
Cairo; whereas very considerable difference
may be observed among the collections adver-
tised for sale in London, Paris, and Vienna.

Throughout this work, the author, to the
utmost of his abihty, has derived his information
from original sources. Upon this account he
has extended the references, in almost every
instance, so as to notice the edition cited ; par-
ticularly where more than one edition has been
used ; as in the example of the Pahestina lllus-
Zmia of Hadrian Reland: for a short time he
consulted the folio copy of that valuable publi-
cation, as it was printed at Venice in 1/46, in
the Thesaurus Antiquitatum Sacrarum of Ugolini ;
not having the preceding edition, published, in
two small quarto volumes, at Utrecht in 1714.
This last, being afterwards obtained, was occa-
sionally cited, as more convenient for reference.
Also, in deriving authorities from Josephus, an
allusion to two different editions may perhaps
be noticed; viz. to one printed at Cologne in
1691, which was consulted in preparing the
manuscript for the press ; and to another printed
in Holland, used subsequently, during a revisal
of the ^vork. These are observations in which

OF PART THE SECOND. xxvii

the generality of readers are little interested ;
but an attention even to such minuteness is
requisite in a writer who has ventured to ques-
tion some of the deductions made by former
authors. Indeed, few persons are aware, either
of all the duties a writer of Travels must fulfil,
or of half the difficulties he has to encounter.

ON THE VALUE OF TURKISH MONEY,

MEASURE OF DISTANCE IN TURKEY,

By the Sale Catalogue of Oriental Manuscripts, given in
No. H. of the Appendix, future travellers may be enabled
not only to collect the Literary productions of the East, but
also to avoid imposition, by knowing beforehand the several
prices of all popular writings in Eastern Theology, Jurispru ^
dence. History, Biography, Poetry, Romances, &c. &c. ;
observing, at the same time, that the price of each Manuscript
depends more upon the merits of the scribe, than of the
author. Thus, for example, a fair copy of the Poems of
Hafiz may be purchased for 110 Paras ; but if the wTiting be
from the calamus of a celebrated calligraphist, the price may
be 300 or 3000 Paras, according to the fame of the scribe,
or the beauty of the illuminations. Turkish and Arahic
Manuscripts are rarely illuminated : those of Persia are very
frequently thus embellished. A single copy of a Manuscript
containing Extracts from the Koran has, however, been esti-
mated at the rate of a Venetian sequin for each letter, on
account of the extraordinary beauty of the penmanship and
emblazonry. Such a work was in the Collection of the late
Sultan, Selim the Third.

The prices of all the Manuscripts enumerated in the Sale
Catalogue are stated, according to the usual mode of demand,
in Turkish Paras. It is necessary, therefore, to mention the
value of the coin which bears this appellation. The author

once intended to have prefixed a Table of Turkish Mea-
sures, Weights, and Money, corresponding with that given
in the former part of this work. The instabihty of the
coinage, and the various estimates a traveller will meet with in
different parts of an empire so heterogeneous and extensive as
that of Turkey, have prevented the introduction of any Table
of this description. It may suffice therefore to say, generally,
of the Piastre, and Para, wherein almost all calculations of
payment are made, that fifteen Piastres may be considered as
equivalent to our Pound Sterling, being the par of exchange * ;
and that forty Paras equal one Piastre.

As to the Measure of Distance in Turkey, computed by
Time, (although the Reader will find this stated, perhaps,
more than once in the following pages, he will not deem the
repetition superfluous, when it saves him the trouble of looking
elsewhere,) it is estimated according to the number of hours
employed by a Caravan of Camels, preceded by an Ass, in
moving from one station to another ; — one hour being equiva-
lent to three geographical miles.

* See Thorntons Present State of Turkey, Vol.11, p.:}8, {Xote.)
Lond. J.S09.

LIST

EMBELLISHMENTS AND MAPS

CONTAINED IN

VOLUME THE THIRD.

TO SERVE AS DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

General Outline of the Author's Route . . to face the Title.

Plan of Cnidus by /. B. S. Morritt, Esq. engraved by
Keele to face p. 270

iVI:-p of the Country between Aloukir and Alexandria in
Egypt; shewing the Landing-place of the British
Troops, &c. &c. from an actual Survey made by an
Officer ; engraved by Neele p. 340

Order of Battle under Sir Ralph Alercromlie, previous
to the Landing of the British Troops in 1801; en-
graved by Neele from an original authentic Document
obtained by the Author in Egypt p. 342

Disposition of landing the Subdivision of the Reserve,
or " First Division of Landing,'' under the Command
of Captain Larmour p. 346

Map of the Roselta Branch of the Nile, shewing the
Situatit)n of the French Forces previous to the Capture
o^Rosetta by the British Army in 1801 ; from an actual
Survey by a British Officer, engraved by Neele . . p. 362

LIST OF THE VIGNETTES

JX VOLUME THE THIRD.

THE VIGNETTES ARE EVGRAVED ON WOOD, BY BRANSTONE.

CHAP. I.

Page

Portrait of Manuel Palceologus, taken from an antient
manuscript ; shewing a similarity between the fashion
observed by the Greek Emperors, and the ordinary
costmne of a Twr^wA Grandee 1

CHAP. II.

View of Constantinople, taken from a Palace in Pera. by
S'lrJF.Gell 38

CHAP. III.

The Tmiiulus of ^'TIsyetes, as it appears from the Hel-
lespont opposite to the Naval Station of the Greeks . 77

CHAP. IV.
Map of the Simo'isian Plain ; as illustrating the Author's
observations upon the Plain of Troy 96

CHAP. V.
Modern Vehicle used in Troas; corresponding with the
account given by Homer of tht Antient Car with its
wicker chest ; etched by Mrs. Edward Clarke, from
a Sketch made by PrcGzu- 136

,VIGNE-TTES TO THE THIRD VOLUME.

CHAP. VI.
Subterraneous Chambers at Alexandria Troas, from a
Drawing by Preaux . 179

CHAP. VII.
Sigean Promontory, with the Tombs mentioned by Strabo,
from a Sketch by the Autlior 215

CHAP. VIII.
Chart of the Gulf of Glaucus in Asia Minor, with the
Road and Anchorage for Shipping, from the Author's
actual Survey 277

Doors of the Theatre at Telmessus in Asia Minor; pre-
serving a similarity to the Cyclopean Architecture of
Stonehenge in JViltshire 296

CHAP. IX.

Portrait of General Menou; taken from Hfe, by the
Author, in Egypt 329

GENERAL

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS

TO PART II. SECT. I.
VOLUME THE THIRD.

PREFACE; containing a Dissertation on the Geography of
the Holy Land.

On the Value of Turkish Money, and the Measure of Distance
in Turkey,

CHAP. I.

p. 1.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Similarity of the Antient and Modern City — Imperial Armoury
• — Vase of the Byzantine Emperors — Description of the four
principal Sultanas — Interior of the Seraglio — Sultan s Kiosk
— Charem, or apartments of the women — Chamber of Au-
dience — Assembly Room — Baths — Chamber of Repose —
Saloon of the Charem — Garden of Hyacinths — Upper Walks
of the Seraglio.

CHAP. H.

P. 38.
CONSTANTINOPLE.

Procession of the Grand Signior at the Opening of the Bairam
— Observations on the Church of St. Sophia — Other Mosques
of Constantinople — Dance of the Dervishes — Howling Der^
vlshes — Cursory observations — Bazar of the Booksellers —
Greek Manuscripts — Exercises of the Athletce — Hippodrome
— Obelisk — Delphic pillar.

VOL. III. d

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

CHAP. III.

P. 77.
FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE PLAIN OF TROY.

Arrival of an American Frigate — Departure from Constanti-
nople — Dardanelles — Situation of Sestos — Dismissal of the
Corvette — Fisit to the Pasha — Voyage down the Hellespont —
Appearance caused by the waters of the Mender — UdjekTepe
— Koum-Kale.

CHAP. IV.

p. 95.
' THE PLAIN OF TROY.

General observations on the topography of the Grecian Cities —
Evidence of the Trojan IVar independent of Homer — Identity
of the Plain — Importance of the text of Strata — Plan of the
Author's Expedition — /J/yer Mender — Tomb of Ajax — Ce-
ment used in the Aianteum — Plants — Hul'il Elly — Inscrip-
tion — Thymbreck — Tchiblack — RemarhalleRuins — Probable
site of Pagus Iliensium — and of Callicolone — Route
from the Beyan Mezaley — Antient sepulchre, and natural
mound — Opinion concerning Sivwis — Prevalent errors with
regard to Scamander — Ruins i?/ ^Ae Callifat Osmack —
Inscriptions — Village of Callifat — Medals — Remains of Neiv
Ilium.

CHAP. V,

p. 136.
DISTRICT OF TROAS.

Ford of the Mender — Fountains of Bonarbashy — their tempera'
ture — Possible allusion to them in Homer — Antiquities of
Bonarbashy — Heights called the Acropolis — Antient Tumuli
— Probable origin of the supposed Acropolis — Observations
by the Polar Star — Journey to the source of the Mender —
Basalt pillars — TEneia — Remarkable tomb — Plain of Bey-
ramitch — Turkmanle — Bonarbashy of Beyramitch — IVarm
Springs — Beyramitch — Antiquities — Kuchunla Tepe — Tem-
ple and altars of Jupiter — Evgillar — Ascent to the Summit
of Gar gar us — Oratories of Hermits — View from the highest
point of the mountain — Errors in the geography of the coun-
try — Appearance of the Idxsan Chain towards Ledum —
Dangerous situation of the Author.

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.
CHAP. VI.

p. 179.
DISTRICT OF TROAS.
Second excursion upon Gnrgarus — Greek chapels — Source of
the Scamander — Journey to Alexandria Troas — Bergas—
Chemali — Decomposition of Granite — Stupendous column —
Hot laths — Form of the Sepulchre called Soros — Alexandria
Troas — Splendid remains of public Balnea — Other vestige;
of the city — Votive tablet to Drusus Ccesar — Udjek — Tomi-
of ^syeles — Erkessy — Interesting Inscription — Sigeum —
Antiquities — Mount Athos — Tombs mentioned by Strabo —
Return to the Dardanelles — Summary of Observations made
in Troas.

CHAP. vn.

p. 215.
FROM THE HELLESPONT TO RHODES.

Transactions at the Dardanelles — Public Sports — Inscriptions
— Voyage down the Hellespont — Tenedos — Ledum Promon-
tory — Lesbos — Erythrcean Straits — Chios — Straits of Samos
— Burning Vapour — View of Patmos and the Cyclades —
Pirates — Cos — Plane Tree — Inscriptions — Fountain of Hip-
pocrates — Greek Manuscripts — Beautiful piece of Antient
Sculpture — Voyage from Cos to Rhodes — Ruins of Cnidus —
visited by Morrilt, and by IValpole — Carpathian Isles —
R hodes.

CHAP. VHI.

P. 277.

FROM RHODES, TO THE GULPH OF GLAUCUS, IN
ASIA MINOR.

Rhodes — Climate — Antiquities — Lindus — Inscriptions — Pagan
Ceremony — Divers of Syme and Nisyrus — Gulph of Glaucus
— Grandeur of the Scenery — Malaria — Island mentioned by
Pliny — Ruins of Telmessus — Theatre — Oracular Cave —
Sepulchres of the Telmessensians — Tomb of Helen, daughter
of Jason — Other Soroi — Mausoleum — Monolithal Sepulchres
— Ruins at Koynucky — Turbulent state of the country —
Conduct of the natives upon the coa^t — New-discovered
Plants — Isle of Ahercromlie.

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.
CHAP. IX.

P. 329.
FROM ASIA MINOR TO EGYPT.

The Taurida sails for Egypt — Vigilance of the English Cruizers
— Extraordinary instance of the propagation of Sound —
Astonishing appearance presented ly the British Fleet —
Spectacle caused by the ravages of IVar — State of affairs
upon the Author's arrival — Obstacles encountered by the Ex-
pedition under Sir Ralph Abercrornbie — Sir Sidney Smith —
Account of the Campaign— ^ Cause of the delay in landing the
troops — Death of Major M^ Arras — Descent of the army —
Battle and victory of the Eighth of March — General Menou
— Affair of theTwelfth — Action of the Thirteenth — Battle of
the Twenty -first — Sensation caused by the death of Aber-
crornbie — Measures pursued by his Successor — Fiew of the
Country — Journey to Rosetta — Mirage.

Appendix, No. I.

p. 375.
An authentic Account of the Revolution which took place at
Constantinople in the Year 1 807 ; o.nd ivhich ended in the
Deposition of the Emperor Selim the Third.

No. II.

P. 381.

Extract from the Letter of Cardinal Isidore, concerjiing the

Capture of Constantinople, A. D. 1452.

No. III.

P. 385.

A Catalogue of Manuscripts upon daily sale in the Cities of

the East.

No. IV.

P. 446.
List of One Hundred and Seventy-two Tales, contained in a
Manuscript Copy of the Alif Lila va Lilin, or Arabian
Nights, as it was procured by the /Author in Egypt.

Manuel Pala-ologus, from an Antient MS.

CHAP. I.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Similarity of the antient and modern City — Imperial
Armoury — Vase of the Byzantine Emperors — Descrip-
tion of the four principal Sultanas — Interior of the
Seraglio — Sultans Kiosk — Charem^ or Apartments of
the Women — Chamber of Audience — Assembly Room —
Baths — Chamber of Repose — Saloon of the Charem —
Garden of Hyacinths — Upper Walks of the Seraglio.

X H E R E are many interesting sources of
reflection, in the present appearance of Con-
stantinople, unnoticed by any author. To these
our attention was early directed, and will be

CHAP.

2 CONSTANTINOPLE.

^^T^^' principally confined. The Reader would not
' ^ — ' be much ^ratified by an elaborate or even an

Similarity ^ '' • i i

of the an- abridged detail from the volumes which have

tient and . i i i • re

modem becu writtcu upon this remarkable city, sum-
' ^" cient alone to constitute a library. Historically

considered, the epocha when the Eastern me-
tropolis of the Roman Empire ceased to exist
as a seat of letters and refinement seems, from
the fulness and freshness of intellioence, to be
almost within our recollection. The discovery
of printing, taking place at the same precise
period, brought with it such a tide of infor-
mation, that, in the very instant when Literature
seemed to be upon the eve of expiring. Science
and Philosophy beamed a brighter and a more
steady light. Thus, in the fourth century that
has elapsed since Constantinople was captured
by the Turks, we are carried back to the
circumstances of their conquest, as if we had
been actual witnesses of the victory. Descrip-
tions have been transmitted to us in all their
original energy; and, in the perusal of the
different narratives, we feel as spectators of
the scene of action .

(1) The account given by Cardinal Isidore, who weis an eye-witness
of the horrible scene which ensued at the capture of Constantinojyle by
the Turkish army, affords a striking example. The art of printing has
been scarcely adequate to its preservation ; and, without it, every syllable
had perished. It is only rescued by a very rare work of Bernard de

Brer/dcnhach,

CONSTANTINOPLE.

But, although Time have had such incon-
siderable influence in weakening impressions of
this kind, it is believed the case would be far
otherwise, viewing the spot where those events
occurred. The literary traveller, visiting Con-
stantinople, expects to behold but faint vestiges
of the imperial city, and believes that he shall
find little to remind him of " the everlasting
foundations" of the master of the Roman world-
The opinion, however, may be as erroneous as
that upon which it was founded. After the
imagination has been dazzled with pompous
and imposing descriptions of palaces, baths,
porticoes, temples, circuses, and gardens, the
plain matter of fact may prove, that in the
obscure and dirty lanes of Constantinople^', in
its small and unglazed shops ; in the style of
architecture observed in the dwellings ; in the
long covered walks, now serving as bazars^; in

Breydenbach of Mayence ; printed in the black letter, at Spire, in 1490, by
FcUr Drach ; and since copied into a volume of Tracts, published at Basil
ixx 1556. This document seems to have escaped not only the researches of
Gibbon, but of every other author who has written upon the subject of the
siege. The insertion of Isidore's account of transactions in which he was
a spectator, may gratify tlie Reader's curiosity, and is therefore added, ia
the Appendix, in his own words. — See Appendix, No. II.

(2) Athens itself was not very unlike Constantinople in its present state,
if we may credit the statistical testimony of Diccearchus, v.ho mentions
the irregularity of the streets, and the poverty and meanness of the
houses.— Vide Stat. Greecice Geogr. Minor. Hudsoni.

(3) Bazar is the appellation used to signify a market, all over the East.
VOL. III. B

4 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, the loose flowing habits with long sleeves, worn
' by the natives * ; even in the practice of con-
cealing the features of the women*; and,
above all, in the remarkable ceremonies and
observances of the public baths ; we behold
those customs and appearances which charac-
terized the antient cities of the Greeks. Such,
as far as inanimate objects are concerned, is
the picture presented by the interesting ruins
of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Slahice \ With

(1) Herndotus, speaking of the Persians, mentions their garments with
long sleeves : and we learn from Xenophon, that Cyrus ordered two
persons to be put to death, who appeared in his presence with their hands
uncovered.

(2) " Dicaarchus, describing the dress of the women of Thebes, says,
that their eyes only are seen : tlie other parts of their faces are covered by
their garments." B/«j "EXX«S«;. IVa/pole's MS. Journal.

(3) " Tlie city of Constantinople, in its existing state, presents some
of those monuments and works of art, which adorned it at the end of the
fourteenth centurj'. They are alluded to in one of the epistles of Manuel
Chrysoloras ; from which I have extracted the following passages. In
the first, we have the veiy form of the modem bazar. ' I omit,' says he,
' the covered and inclosed walks,, formerly seen traversing the lohole city,
tn suck a manner that yon night pass through it luithoiit being incon-
venienced by the mud, or rays of the sun.' 'Ea Ti trxi'^Tac-ous xai (p^Krtiuf
^l^ifiovi oia, ■rartt; veaTi T-J; "ffiXna; 'Biixvv/u.inav;, u(m \%%7vxt avtv ttiXoZ Kail
axTTvof trairav ^iiuxt. In the second, he mentions the cisterns, which are
still to be seen, supported by granite columns and marble pillars. They
were built by Constantine and Philoxenus. ' / omit also the number of
' pillars and arches in the cisterns.' Kai to vXriim tZv iv avTuTi y.iitot xa)
a-^i^av. In the next, the baths are described, which appear to have been
as numerous then in Constantinople, as now. ' £ut why should I speak
' concerning the baths ; the nutaber of which, were I to relate it, would be
' incredible s" T/ oe srsg) XoutoZii av Xiyot/ii' a» ro Irvootu/iivtt s> euirr, ytnafcii
fr?,r.hc amtnlrat ;" Walpols's MS. Journal.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 5

regard to the costume of its inhabitants, we chap.
have only to view the dresses worn by the .

Greeks themselves, as they are frequently
represented upon the gems and coins of the
country, as well as those used in much earlier
ages\ There is every reason to believe, that
the Turks themselves, at the conquest of
Constantinople, adopted many of the customs,
and embraced the refinements, of a people
they had subdued. Their former habits had
been those of Nomade tribes; their dwellings
were principally tents ; and the camp, rather
than the city, had distinguished their abode.
Hence it followed, that, with the houses, the
furniture and even the garb of the Greeks would
necessarily be associated ; neither do the divans
of Turkish apartments differ from those luxu-
rious couches, on which the Greeks and Romans
were wont to repose. At the capture of

(4) The dress wen by the Popes of Rome, upon solemn occasions,
corresponds with tlie habits of tlie Roman Emperors in the lower ages :
and from a representation of the portrait of Manuel Palaologus (Seethe
Vignette to this Chapter), as taken from an antient manuscript, and pre-
served in Bandurius, (Vid. Impermm Orientale, torn. II. p. 991. ed.
Par. 1711,) it appears that there is little difierence between the costume
of a Greek Emperor in the ffteenlli century, and a Grand Signior in the
nineleenlh. — The mark of distinction worn upon the head of the Turkish
Sultans, and other grandees of the Empire, of which the calalkus was an
archetype, is also another remarkable circumstance in the identity of
antient and modern customs.

6 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. Constantinople, a certain portion of the city was
still retained, in undisturbed possession, by
those Grecian families whose services to the
conqueror obtained for them privileges which
their descendants enjoy even at this hour': yet,
in their domestic habits, and in all things,
except in their religious ceremonies, there is
nothing which distinguishes them from their
fellow-citizens the Turks. The temples of the
citizens, we further know, were appropriated
to the new religion*. The sumptuous baths of
the vanquished were not less prized by the
victor. Few, if any, of the public buildings
were destroyed ; and, from the characteristic
disposition of Oriental nations to preserve things
as they are, we may reasonably conclude, with
the exception of those edifices which have
yielded to the attacks of time, of earthquakes,
and of fire, that Constantinople exhibits one, at
least, of the cities of the Antients, almost
unaltered. Passing thence into Asia, the tra-
veller may be directed to other examples of the
same nature, in which the similarity of the

(1) They live in a part of the city which, from its proximity to tlie.
Light-house, goes by the name of Plianar.

(2) Of which tlie Church of St. Sophia is a particular instance: and
it may be added, that the crescent, which blazons the Turkish banner, is tlie
most antieiit symbol of lij/zunUum, as appears by tlie medals of the city.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

aiitient and the modern appearance is even more char
striking : and perhaps the howling dervishes of
Scutari f who preserve in their frantic orgies the
rites of the priests of BaaP, accommodated the
mercenary exhibition of their pretended miracles
to a new superstition pervading the temples of
Chalcedon ; exactly as Pagan miracles, recorded
and derided by Horace, were adapted to the
ceremonies of the Roman- Catholic religion*. The
Psylli of Egypt, mentioned by Herodotus, are
still found in the serpent-eaters of Cairo and of
Rosetta: and in all ages, where a successful
craft, under the name of miracle, has been
employed to delude and to subdue the human
understanding, the introducers of a new religion
have, with considerable policy, appropriated it
to the same purpose for which it was employed
by their predecessors.

The prejudices of the Christians against their
Turkish conquerors were so difficult to be over-
come, that while we lament a want of truth, in
every account which they have given of their
invaders, we cannot wonder at the falsehood ;

(3) " And they cried aloud, and cut themselves, after their manner,
with knives and lancets." 1 Kings, xviii. 28.

(4) The miracle of the liquefaction of St. Jantiarius's blood is alluded
to by Horace, as practised, in his time, under a diiferent name. Ilor.
Sal. lib. I, 5.

8 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, but, in this distant period, viewing the events
of those times without passion or prejudice, it
may become a question, whether, at the capture
of Constantinople, the victors or the vanquished
were the most poUshed people. It is not
necessary to paint the vices and the barbarism
of those degenerated representatives of the
antient Romans, who then possessed the imperial
city; nor to contrast them with those of the
Turks: but when it is urged, that Mohammad
and his followers, upon taking possession of
Constantinople, were busied only in works of
destruction', we may adduce evidence to the
contrary, derived even from the writings of
those by whom they were thus calumniated.
I Gyllius and Bandurius have permitted observa-
tions to escape them, which have a remarkable
I tendency to establish a contrary opinion : they
acknowledge, that certain magnificent palaces,
temples, baths, and caravanserais % were allowed
to remain ; and the Temple of St. Sophia being of
the number, as well as the antiquities in the

(1) " Capta a Turcis Constantinopoli, antiqua ilia ac veneranda mouu-
menta olim a variis Imperatoribus Christianis magnificentissime con-
structa, quae Barbari illi adhuc Integra in regU urbe repererant, alia solo
aequarunt, alia spoliata suis ornameaitis reliquerunt, I'onec sic neglects
in ruinam diffluerent." Bandurii Imperium Orientals, torn. II. p. 1007.
ed. Par. 1711.

(2) " Quae magnifice exstnicta visuntur." Ibid.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Hippodrome, the public cisterns, the sarcophagi, &c.
we may form a tolerable estimate of the taste
of the Turks in this respect. It will appear
afterwards, that the regalia, the imperial ar-
moury, and many other works of magnificence
and of utility, were likewise preserved. In
the sacking of a city, when all things are
left to promiscuous pillage, a scene of ruin
and desolation must necessarily ensue ; and,
under similar circumstances of previous pro-
vocation and of subsequent opportunity, it
is not to be believed that the Greeks would
have been more scrupulous than their con-
querors. The first employment of Mohammed,
when those disorders had subsided, was not
merely the preservation, but the actual improve-
ment of the city : of this a striking example is
related by Gijllius, who, speaking of the Forum
of Taurus, says, that owing to its being grown
over with wood, and affording a shelter for
thieves, Mohammed granted the spot to those
who were willing to build upon it^ The same
author also mentions, that, among other instances
of Mohammed's munificence, the largest baths in
the city were by him erected ; one for the use
of men, and the other for women'': neither is it

(S) Gyllius de Topog. Constant, lib. in. o. fi.
(4) Ibid. lib. iv. c. 2.

10 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, necessary to seek for information further than
V,. i..y- ..' in the documents which he has afforded, to
prove that Christians, and not Turks, have been
the principal agents in destroying the statues
and the pubhc buildings with which Constan-
tinople, in different ages, was adorned'. The
havoc was begun by the Romans themselves,
even so early as the time of Constantine the
Great: and it was renewed, at intervals, in
consequence of the frequent factions and dis-
sentions of the inhabitants'. The city, such as
it was, when it came into the possession of the
Turks, has been by them preserved, with fewej
alterations than took place while it continued in
the hands of their predecessors. It does not
however appear, that the changes produced,
either by the one or by the other, have in
any degree affected that striking resemblance
which it still bears to the antient cities of
the Greeks.

(0 See the curious extract from Nicetas the Chonial, in the Appendix
to the last Section of Part II. of these Travels.

(2) Prjmum Imperatores dissentientes, deinde incendia creberrini4,
non moJo fortuita, sed etiam ab hostibus tarn externis, quam dissidentibus

Tariarum fictionum partibus jacta, &c Neque

modo ab hostibus antiqua monumenta eversa sunt, sed etiam ab Impeja-
toribus etiam Constantinopoli amicissimis, inter quos primus Constantinus
Magnus, quem Eusebius scribit templa deorum dirais:>e, vestiUuM vas-
tasse, tecta detraxisse, eorura statuas aereas sustulisse, quibus tot saeculis
gloriabantur." Ibid tom.l. p. 427. ed, Far. 1711.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 1

Under these impressions, we eagerly sought chap.
an opportunity to examine the interior of the \ •

Seraglio: and, difficult as the undertakins:
may seem, we soon found the means of iti-j
accomplishment. The harmony existing be-
tween England and the Porte, at that critical
juncture when Egypt was to be restored to the
Turks by the valour of our troops, greatly faci-
litated the enterprise. We felt convinced, that,
within the walls of the Seraglio, many interesting
antiquities were concealed from observation;
and we were not disappointed.

The first place, to which our observations imperial

Armoury.

were directed, was the Imperial Armoury : and
here, to our high gratification, we beheld the
weapons, the shields, and the military engines
of the Greek emperors, exactly corresponding
with those represented on antient medals and
bas-reliefs, suspended as trophies of the capture
of the city by the Turks. It is true, our stay
was not of sufficient duration to enable us to
bring away any other than this brief notice of
what we saw : a Bostanghy soon put a stop to
the gratification of our curiosity, and we were
compelled to retreat; but even the transient
view, thus obtained, was sufficient to excite a
belief, that other interesting remains of the
Palace of the C^sars might also be similarly

12 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, preserved. This conjecture was not without
N .y / foundation: nor is it at all remarkable, that, in
a lapse of time which does not exceed the
period that has intervened since the armour of
Henry the Sixth was deposited in the Tower of
London, the relics of Roman power should be
thus discovered. It is only singular, that,
during all the inquiries which have taken place
respecting this remarkable city, such remains
should have been so long unnoticed. In answer
to our earnest entreaties for the indulgence of
a few moments, to be employed in further
examination, it was explained to us, that, if
the old armour v/ere an object of our curiosity,
we might have full leisure to survey it, when
carried on sumpter-horses, in the great annual
procession of the Grand Signior, at the opening
of the Bairam, which was shortly to take pace,
and where we afterwards saw it exhibited.

Vase of the Soon after this, some Pages belonging to the
Emperors. SeragUo brouglit from the Sultans apartments
the fragments of a magnificent vase of jasper-
agate, which, they said, his Highness had
dashed to pieces in a moment of anger. As
these fragments had been cast away, and dis-
regarded, the Pages had sold them to a poor
lapidary, who earned a scanty- livelihood by
cutting and pohshing stones for the signet

CONSTANTINOPLE. i;j

riiifrs of the Turks\ In one of our miiieralogi- chap.
cal excursions, the merchants of the bezesten, ,- -
where jewels are sold, directed us to the labo-
ratory of this man, to obtain the precious
stones of the country in their natural state.
He was then employed upon the fragments of
this vase, and very gladly spared the labour
which he would otherwise have bestowed, by
consigning, for a small sum, the whole of them
into our hands. It is hardly possible to con-
ceive a more extraordinary proof of the genius
and industry of Grecian artists, than was pre-
sented by this vase. Its fragments are still in
the author's possession; and have been reserved
for annual exhibition, during a course of public
Lectures in the University of Cambridge. When
it is considered, that the treasury of Mithradales
contained four thousand specimens of a similar
manufacture ; and that the , whole collection
came into the hands of the Romans; that the
Turks, moreover, are unable to execute any
thing of the same nature ; it is highly probable
that this curious relic, after passing into the
possession of the Moslems at the conquest of the
cit}^ had continued to adorn the palace of their

(1) yhe Turks rarely write themselves : they employ scribes, who stand
ready for hire in the streets ; and afterwards apply a signets which has
been previously rubbed over with Indian ink, by way of voucher for th«

manuscript.

14 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, sovereigns. Neither is this conjecture unsup-
ported by the mythological figure which is
represented, in exquisite sculpture, upon the
exterior surface of the vase itself. It consists
of an entire mass of green jasper-agate, beau-
tifully variegated with veins and spots of a
vermilion colour; so that one part of it exhibits
the ribbon-jasper, and another the blood-stone.
The handle is so formed as to represent the
head of a griffin (carved in all the perfection of
the finest cam^o), whose extended wings and
claws cover the outside of the vase. The
difficulty of cutting a siliceous concretion of
such extraordinary durability needs not to be
specified : it may be presumed, that the entire
life of the antient lapidary, by whom it was
wrought, was barely adequate to the under-
taking; nor do we know in what manner such
works were effected. Yet there are parts of the
sculpture where the sides of the vase remain as
thin as the finest porcelain '.

(1) I have seen similar instances of sculpture, executed even in harder
substances; and the Chinese possess the art of perfecting such works.
There exists a very remarkable manufactory of this kind at Cambai/, in
the Guzerat, in India. The author lately saw some beautiful models of
pieces of artillery, which, with tlieir carriages and wheels, had been exe-
cuted, each out of one entire mass of red Carneliaii stone, by the natives
of Camhay. Tlie English Resident, Mr, Shrine, who presided over the
-manufactory, and to whom these models belong, affirms, that the Carne-
lians undergo the action of fire before they are worked. It is probable

that

CONSTANTINOPLE.

A second visit which we made to the interior
of the Seraglio was not attended by any very
interesting discovery ; but, as it enabled us to
describe, with minuteness, scenes hitherto imper-
vious to Christian eyes, the Reader may be gra-
tified with our observations within those walls.
Every one is curious to know what exists___, ^
withnTrecesses which have been long concealed.
In vain does the eye, roaming from the towers
of Galata, Pera, and Constantinople, attempt to
penetrate the thick gloom of cypresses, and
domes, which distinguishes the most beautiful
part of the city. Imagination magnifies things ,
unknown : and when, in addition to the curio-
sity always excited by mystery, the reflection is
suggested, that antient Byzantium occupied the
site of the Sultans palace, a thirst of inquiry is
proportionably augmented. We promise to con-
duct our readers not only within the retirement
of the Seraglio, but into the Charem itself, and the
most secluded haunts of the Turkish sovereign.

that Jade, with whose natural history we are little acquainted, hardens by
exposure to the atmosphere; and that the Chinese, who give it such
various shapes, avail themselves of its softness, when fresh dug, in order
to manufacture it. The chemical analysis of Jade was only lately ascer-
tained: it is an alkaliferous Silex, containing also Lime: its proper place,
therefore, in a mineralogical system, ought to be with Obsidian and Pitch-
stone. A vase of one entire piece of jade is in the collection of Mr.
Ferguson; and a patera, exactly answering Mr. Ferguson s vase, was.
lately exposed for i,alc, in tlip window of a bhop in the Strand.

1« CONSTANTINOPLE.

It so happened, that the gardener of the
Grand Signior, during our residence in Constan-
tinople, was a German. This person used to
mix with the society in Pera, and often joined
in the evening parties given by the different
foreign ministers. In this. manner we became
acquainted with him; and were invited to his
apartments M^ithin the walls of the Seraglio,
close to the gates of the Sultans garden. We
were accompanied, during our first visit, by his
intimate friend, the secretary and chaplain of
the Swedish mission; who, but a short time
before, had succeeded in obtaining a sight of
the four principal Sidtanas and the Sultan Mother^
in consequence of his frequent visits to the
gardener. The secretary and his friend were
sitting together one morning, when the cries of
the black eunuchs, opening the door of the
Charem, which communicated with the Seraglio
gardens, announced that these ladies were
going to take the air. In order to do this, it
was necessary to pass the gates adjoining the
gardener's lodge ; where an arahat ' was sta-
tioned to receive them, in which it was usual
for them to drive round the walks of the Seraglio,

(1) A covered waggon upon four wheels, with latticed windows at the
sides, formed to conceal those who are witliin. It is almost the only
species of carriage in use among the Turks,

CONSTANTINOPLE. 17

within the walls of the palace. Upon those
occasions, the black eunuchs examine ■ every
part of the garden, and run before the women,
calling out to all persons to avoid approaching
or beholding them, under pain of death. The
gardener, and his friend the Swede, instantly
closed all the shutter.-, and locked the doors.
The black eunuchs, arriving soon after, and
finding the lodge shut, supposed the gardener
to be absent. Presently followed the Sultan Description

. , , ^ ' . . . , of the four

Mother, with the four prmcipal Sultanas, who principal
were in high glee, romping and laughing with
each other. A small scullery window, of the
gardener's lodge, looked directly towards the
gate, through which these ladies were to pass ;
and was separated from it only by a few yards.
Here, through two small gimlet-holes, bored
for the purpose, they beheld very distinctly the
features of the women, whom they described
as possessing extraordinary beauty. Three of
the four were Georgians, having dark com-
plexions, and very long dark hair; but the
fourth was remarkably fair, and her hair, also
of singular length and thickness, was of a flaxen
colour : neither were their teeth dyed black, as
those of Turkish females generally are. The
Swedish gentleman said, he was almost sure that
these women suspected they were seen, from
the address they manifested in displaying their

18 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, charms, and in loitering at the gate. This gavc^
'' ' » - ^ him and his friend no small degree of terror ■
as they would have paid for their curiosity with
their lives, if any such suspicion had entered
into the minds of the black eunuchs. He
described their dresses as being rich beyond all
that can be imagined. Long spangled robes,
open in front, with pantaloons embroidered in
gold and silver, and covered by a profusion
of pearls and precious stones, displayed their
persons to great advantage ; but were so heavy,
as actually to encumber their motion, and almost
to impede their walking. Their hair hung in
loose and very thick tresses, on each side
of their cheeks; falling down to the waist,
and entirely covering their shoulders. Those
tresses were quite powdered with diamonds,
not displayed according to any studied arrange-
ment, but as if carelessly scattered, by handfuls,
among their flowing locks. On the top of their
heads, and rather leaning to one side, they
wore, each of them, a small circular patch or
diadem. Their faces, necks, ^nd even their
breasts, were quite exposed; not one of them
having any veil.

The German gardener, who had daily access
to different parts of the Seraglio, offered to
conduct us not only over the gardens, but

CONSTANTINOPLE* 19

pTomised, if we would come singly, during the
season of the Ramadan', (when the guards, >-
being up all night, would be stupefied during
the day with sleep and intoxication,) to under-
take the greater risk of shewing to us the
interior of the Charem, or the apartments of
the women; that is to say, of that part of it
which they inhabit during the summer; for
they were still in their winter chambers. We
readily accepted this offer: the author only
solicited the further indulgence of being ac-
companied by a French artist of the name of
Preaux, whose extraordinary promptitude in
design would enable him to bring away sketches
of any thing we might find interesting, either in
the Charem, or gardens of the Seraglio. The appre-
hensions of Monsieur Preaux were, however, so
great, that it was with the greatest difficulty
we could prevail upon him to venture into the

(1) The Ramadan of tlie Txrhs answers to our Lent, as their Bai'r am
does to Easter. During the month of the Ilamadnn, they impose upon
themselves the strictest privation, avoiding even the use of tohacco, from
sun-rise to sun-set. They feast all night during this season, and are,
therefore, generally asleep during the day; nor is it easy to awaken them
at tliis time, for they are frequently intoxicated with opium. This was
the season in which Pitts, who publislied a faithful account of the Moham-
medans, endeavoured to effect his escape from slavery. " It was," says
he, "in the time of Ramadan, wlien they cat meat only by night; and
therefore in the moaning wotdd have been all fast asleep." Account of
the Religion and Manners of the Mahometans, p. 7. Lond, 1738.
VOL. III. C

CHAP.

20 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. Seraglio ; and he afterwards either lost, or
' -y- ^ secreted, the only drawmgs which his fears
would allow him to make while he was there.

We left Pera, in a gondola, about seven o'clock
in the morning ; embarking at Tophana, and
steering towards that gate of the Seraglio which
faces the Bosporus on the south-eastern side,
v/here the entrance to the Seraglio garden^and
the gardener's lodge are situate. A Bostanghy,
3s a sort of porter, is usually seated, with his
Interior of attendants, within the portal. Upon entering
the Seraglio, the spectator is struck by a wild
and confused assemblage of great and inter-
esting objects : among the first of these are,
enormous cypresses, massive and lofty masonry,
neglected and broken soroi, high rising mounds,
and a long gloomy avenue, leading from the
gates of the garden between the double walls
of the Seraglio. This gate is the same by
which the Sultanas came out for the airing
before alluded to ; and the gardener's lodge is
on the ri^ht hand of it. The avenue extending;
from it, towards the west, offers a broad and
beautiful, although solitary, walk, to a A^ery
considerable extent, shut in by high walls on
both sides. Directly opposite to this entrance
of the Seraglio is a very lofty mound, or
bank, covered by large trees, and traversed by

CONSTANTINOPLE. 21

terraces, over which, on the top, are walls with chap.
turrets. On the right hand, are the large wooden
folding doors of the Grand Signiors gardens;
and near to them lie many fragments of antient
marbles, appropriated to the vilest purposes ;
among others, a soros of one mass of marble,
covered with a simple, although unmeaning
bas-relief. Entering the gardens by the folding
doors, a pleasing coup deceit of trellis-work and
covered walks is displayed, more after the taste
of the natives of Holland, than of those of any
other country. Various and very despicable
jets d^eau, straight gravel-walks, and borders
disposed into parallelograms, with the addition
of a long green-house filled with orange-trees,
compose all that appears within the small spot
which bears the name of the Seraidio Gardens.
The view, on entering, is down the principal
gravel-walk; and all the walks meet at a central
point, beneath a dome of the same trellis-work
by which they are covered. Small fountains
spout a few quarts of water into large shells,
or form parachutes over burning bougies, by
the sides of the walks. The trellis-work is of
wood, painted white, and covered by jasmine ;
and this, as it does not conceal the artificial
frame by which it is supported, produces a
wretched effect. On the outside of the trellis-
work appear small parterres, edged with box,
c 2

2% CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, containing very common flowers, and adorned
with fountains. On the right hand, after entering
the garden, appears the magnificent hiosk, which
constitutes the Sultan s> summer residence ; and
farther on is the orangery before mentioned,
occupying the whole extent of the wall on that
side* Exactly opposite to the garden gates is
the door of the Charem, or palace of the women
belonging to the Grand Signior ; a building not
unlike one of the small colleges in Cambridge,
and inclosing the same sort of cloistered court.
One side of this building extends across the
upper extremity of the garden, so that the
windows look into it. Below these windows
are two small green-houses, filled with very
common plants, and a number of Canary-birds.
Before the Charem windows, on the right hand,
is a ponderous, gloomy, wooden door ; and this,
creaking on its massive hinges, opens to the
quadrangle, or interior court of the Charem
itself. Still facing the Charem, on the left hand,
is a paved ascent, leading through a handsome
gilded iron gate, from the lower to the upper
garden. Here is a kiosk, which will presently
be described. Returning from the Charem to
the door by which we first entered, a lofty wall
on the right hand supports a terrace with a few
small parterres : these, at a considerable height
above the lower garden, constitute what is now

CONSTANTINOPLE. 23

called the Upper Garden of the Seraglio ; and, chap.
till within these few years, it was the only one. < y ^

Having thus completed the tour of this small Suitan's
and insignificant spot of ground, let us now
enter the kiosk, which was first mentioned as
the Sultans summer residence. It is situate
on the sea-shore, and commands one of the
finest views the eye ever beheld, of Scutary and
of the adjoining j4siatic coast, the mouth of the
Canaly and a moving picture of ships and gon-
dolas, with all the floating pageantry of this
vast metropolis, such as no other capital in
the world can pretend to exhibit. The kiosk
itself, fashioned after the airy fantastic style of
Easteiii architecture, presents a spacious cham-
ber, covered by a dome ; from which, towards
the sea, advances a raised platform surrounded
by windows, and terminated hy ^ diva!i\ On
the right and left are the private apartments of
the Sultan and his ladies. Fron:i the centre of
the dome is suspended a large lustre, presented
by the English ambassador. Above the raised
platform hangs another lustre of smaller size,

(1) Tlie divan is a sort of couch, or sofa, common over all the Levant,
surrounding every side of a room, except that which contains the entrance.
It is raised about sixteen inches from the floor. 'When a Divan is held,
it means nothing more, than that the persons composing it are thus
seated.

24 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, but more elegant. Immediately over the sofas
of the divmi are mirrors engraved with Turkish
inscriptions — poetry, and passages from the
Koran. The sofas are of white satin, beautifully
embroidered by the women of the Seraglio.

Leaving the platform, on the left hand is the
Sultans private chamber of repose, the floor of
which is surrounded by couches of very costly
workmanship. Opposite to this chamber, on
the other side of the kiosk, a door opens to the
apartment in which are placed the attendant
Sultanas, the Sultan Mother, or any ladies in
residence with the sovereign. This room cor-
responds exactly with the Sultans chamber,
except that the couches are more magnificently
embroidered.

A small staircase leads from these apart-
ments, to two chambers below, paved with
marble, and as cold as any cellar. Here a
more numerous assemblage of women are
buried, as it were, during the heat of summer.
The first is a sort of antechamber to the other ;
by the door of which, in a nook of the wall,
are placed the Sultanas slippers, of common
yellow morocco, and coarse workmanship.
Havinof entered the marble chamber immedi-
ately below the kiosk, a marble bason presents

CONSTANTINOPLE. 25

itself, with a fountain in the centre, containing
water to the depth of about three inches, and a
few very small fishes. Answering to the plat-
form mentioned in the description of the MosJc,
is another, exactly of a similar nature, closely
latticed, where the ladies sit durino- the season
of their residence in this place. We were
pleased with observing a few things they had
carelessly left upon the sofas, and which cha-
racterized their mode of life. Among these
was an English writing-box, of black varnished
wood, with a sliding cover, and drawers; the
drawers containing coloured writing paper, reed
pens, perfumed wax, and little bags made of
embroidered satin, in which their billets-doux
are sent, by negro slaves, who are both mutes
and eunuchs. That liqueurs are drunk in these
secluded chambers is evident; for we found
labels for bottles, neatly cut out with scissars,
bearing Turkish inscriptions, with the words
*' Rosoglio,'" " Golden JVater,'' and " JVater of
Life'' These we carried off as trophies of our
visit to the place, and distributed them among
our friends'. Having now seen every part of

(1) The inscriptions upon the labels were translated by the principal
Dragoman of the Austrian Ambassador: but they have been since shewn
to other Oriental scholars, all of whom afforded the same interpretation.
It matters not whetlier tlie liqueurs were drunk by the Sultan, or his
ladies : the fact must speak for itself.

26 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, this building, we returned to the garden, by
V— s — ' the entrance which admitted us to the kiosk.

Charem, q^j. YiQxi principal object was the examination

or Apart- i c J

mentsof of tlic Charem; and as the undertaking was

theWomen.

attended with danger, we first took care to see
that the garden was cleared of Bo.stanghies, and
other attendants ; as our curiosity, if detected,
would, beyond all doubt, have cost us our lives
upon the spot. A catastrophe of this nature
has been already related by Le Bruyn. An
European was put to death who was detected
using a telescope to examine the Seraglio
Gardens from the window of his house in the
city'.

(I) Tlie Reader will judge, from the following extract, what the fate
of any person would be. Christian or Moslem, who should be detected
within the Charem. " U en coAta cher au S'. Grellot, Interprete de
Venise ; comme il etoit loge a Constantinople, dans une maison qui avoit
vue sur les Jardins du Serail, et regardant un jour le Grand Seigneur
et ses Sultanes avec une lunette de longue vue, qu'll avoit fait passer par
le trou d'un chassis ; ce Prince, s'en etant appcr^ft, donna ordre qu'on
alia pendre sur-le-champ, a la meme fenclre, ce curieux quel qu'il fut, et
il ne sortit point du jardin que I'execution ne fut faite. Les Bostangis
sont obliges de sortir lors qu'on sonne une cloche, pour avertir que Sa
Hautesse va se promener avec quelque Sultane ; et ii y iroit de la vie a
y demeurer. Un Sultan lit ineme un jour mcurir un de ces Bostangis
qu'on trouva endorrai sous un arbre, quoiqu'il n'efit pas entcndu le
signal qui I'obligeoit a, sortir,"

Voyage au Levant par C. Le Bruyn, torn. I. p^ i4I. Paris, 1725.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 27

Having inspected every alley and corner of chap.
the garden, we advanced, half-breathless, and
on tip-toe, to the great vi^ooden door of the
passage leading to the inner court of this
mysterious edifice. We succeeded m forcing
this open; but the noise of its grating hinges,
amidst the profound silence of the place, went
to our very hearts. We then entered a small
-quadrangle, much resembling that of Queens
College, Cambridge, filled with weeds. It was
divided into two parts, one raised above the
other ; the principal side of the court containing
an open cloister, supported by small white
marble columns. Every thing appeared in a
neglected state. The women reside here on|y
during summer. Their winter apartments may
be compared to the late Bastille of France; and
the decoration of these apartments is even
inferior to that we are about to describe. From
this court, forcing open a small window near
the ground, and having climbed into the building,
we arrived upon along range of wooden beds, or
couches, covered with mats, prepared for the
reception of a hundred slaves, which reached
the whole extent of a very long corridor.
Hence, passing through some narrow passages,
the floors of which were also matted, we came
to a staircase leading to the upper apartments.
Of such irregular and confused architecture, it

Cliainber
of Audi-
ence.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

is difficult to give any perspicuous description.
We went from the lower dormitory of the
slaves to another above it: this was divided
into two tiers ; so that one half of the numerous
attendants it was designed to accommodate
slept over the other, upon a sort of shelf or
scaffold near to the ceiling. From this second
corridor we entered into a third, a long matted
passage : upon the left of this were small apart-
ments for slaves of higher rank ; and upon the
risfht, a series of rooms lookino; towards the
sea. By continuing along this corridor, we at
last entered the great Chamber of Audience, \i\
which the Sultan Mother receives visits of cere-
mony from the Sultanas, and other distinguished
ladies of the Charem. Nothing can be imagined
better suited to theatrical representation than
this chamber. It is exactly such an apartment
as the best painters of scenic decoration would
have selected, to afford a striking idea of the
pomp, the seclusion, and the magnificence, of
the Ottoman court. The stage is best suited for
its representation ; and therefore the reader is
requested to have the stage in his imagina-
tion while it is described. It was surrounded
with enormous mirrors, the costly donations
of Infidel kings, as they are styled by the
present possessors. These mirrors the women
of the Seraglio sometimes break, in their

CONSTANTINOPLE. 29

frolics'. At the upper end is the throne, a
sort of cage, in which the Sultana sits, sur-
rounded by latticed blinds ; for even here her
person is held too sacred to be exposed to
the common observation of slaves and females
of the Charem. A lofty flight of broad steps,
covered with crimson cloth, leads to this
cage, as to a throne. Immediately in front
of the cage are two burnished chairs of state,
covered with crimson velvet and gold, one
on each side of the entrance. To the right
and the left of the throne, and upon a level
with it, are the sleeping apartments of the
Sultan Mother, and her principal females in
waiting. The external windows of the throne
are all latticed: on one side they look towards
the sea, and on the other into the quadrangle
of the Charem; the cham1)er itself occupying
the whole breadth of the buildino^, on the side

(1) The mischief done in this way, by tlie Grand Sigm'or's women, is
so great, that some of the most costly articles of furniture are removed,
when they come from their winter apartments into this palace. Among
the number, was the large coloured lustre given by the Earl of Elgin :
this was only suspended during their absence ; and even then by a common
rope. We saw it in this state. The offending ladies, when detected,
are actually whipped by the black eunuchs, whom it is their chief
amusement to elude and to ridicule. As this mode of punishment has
been doubted by certain advocates for Turfcish refinement, the author
has taken some pains to ascertain the fact; and is responsible for its
▼eracity.

30 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, of the quadrangle into which it looks. The
■ area below the latticed throne, or the front of

the stage (according to the idea before pro-
posed), is set apart for attendants, for the
dancers, for actors, music, and whatsoever is
brought into the Charem for the amusement of
the court. This place is covered with Persian
mats; but these are removed when the Sultana
is here, and the richest carpets are then sub-
stituted in their place.

Assembly Bevoud the o:reat Chamber of Audience is
the Assembly Room of the Sultan, when he is in
the Charem. Here we observed the magnificent
lustre before mentioned. The Sultan sometimes
visits this chamber during the winter, to hear
music, and to amuse himself with his favourites.
It is surrounded by mirrors. The other orna-
ments display that strange mixture of magni-
ficence and wretchedness, which characterize
all the state-chambers of Turkish grandees.
Leaving the Assembly Room by the same door
through which we entered, and continuing along
the passage, as before, which runs parallel to
the sea-shore, we at length reached, what
might be termed the Sanctum Sanctorum of this

Baths. ' Paphian temple, the Baths of the Sultan Mother
and the four principal Sultanas. These are small,
but very elegant, constructed of white marble,

CONSTANTINOPLE. 31

and lighted by ground glass above. At the chap.

upper end is a raised sudatory and bath for the < »■■ *

Sultan Mother, concealed by lattice-work from

the rest of the apartment. Fountains play

constantly into the floor of this hath, from all

its sides; and every degree of refined luxury

has been added to the work, which a people, of

all others best versed in the ceremonies of

the hath, have been capable of inventing or

requiring.

Leaving the hath, and returning along the chamberof

1 1 • 1 11 Repose.

passage by which we came, we entered what
is called the Chamber of Repose; commanding
the most extensive view, anywhere afforded
from this point, of the Seraglio. It forms a
part of the building well known to strangers,
from the circumstance of its being supported,
towards the sea, by twelve columns of that
beautiful and rare breccia, the verde antico,
which is extolled by Pliny'. Here the other
ladies of the Charem entertain themselves, bv Saioonof

theCVja-

hearing and seeing comedies, farcical represen- rem.
tations, dances, and music. We found it to be
in the state of an old lurtiber-room. Large

(1) " Pretiosissimi qukleiT) generis, cunctisqnc hilarius." Nnt. Hist.
lib. xxxvi. c 7. v

32 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, dusty pier-glasses, in heavy gilded frames, neg-
lected and broken, had been left, leaning against
the wall, the whole length of one side of the
room. Old furniture; shabby bureaus of the
worst English work, made of oak, walnut, or
mahogany; inlaid cabinets ; scattered fragments
of chandeliers; scraps of paper, silk rags, and
empty confectionary boxes; were the only
objects in this part of the palace.

From this room we descended into the court
of the CAare;» ; and, having crossed it, ascended,
by a flight of steps, to an upper terrace, for the
purpose of examining a part of the building
appropriated to the inferior ladies of the Seraglio.
Finding it exactly upon the plan of the rest,
only worse furnished, and in a more wretched
state, we returned to quit the Charem entirely,
and to effect our retreat into the garden. The
Reader may imagine our consternation, upon
finding that the great door was shut, and that
we v/ere locked in. Listening, to ascertain if
any one were stirring, we discovered that a
slave had entered to feed some turkeys, who
were gobbling and making a great noise at a
small distance. We profited by their tumult,
to force back the huge lock of the gate with a
large stone ; and this fortunately yielding to our
blows, we made our escape.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 33

We now quitted the Lower Garden of the chap.
^ I.

Seraglio, and ascended, by a paved way, to- « — /— — '

wards the Chamber of the Garden of Hyacinths. fJardcn of
This promised to be curious, as we were told
the Sultan passed almost all his private hours in
that apartment; and the view of it might make
us acquainted with occupations and amuse-
ments, which characterize the man, divested of
the outward parade of the Sultan. We pre-
sently turned from the paved ascent, towards
the right ; and entered a small garden, laid out
into very neat oblong borders, edged with
porcelain or Dutch tiles. Here no plant is
suffered to grow, excepting the Hyacinth;
whence the name of this garden, and the cham-
ber it contains. We examined the Sultans
apartment, by looking through a window. No-
thing can be more magnificent. Three sides
of it were surrounded by a divan, the cushions
and pillows of which were of black embroidered
satin. Opposite to the windows of the cham-
ber was a fire-place, constructed after the
European fashion ; and on each side of this, a
door covered with hangings of crimson cloth.
Between each of these doors and the fire-place
appeared a glass-case, containing the Sultans
private library: every volume was in manu-
script; they were placed upon shelves, one
book lying upon another, and the title of each

34 CONSTANTINOPLE.

GiiAP. ^as written upon the edges of its leaves.
From the ceiUng of the room, which was of
burnished gold, opposite to each of the doors,
and also opposite to the fire-place, were sus-
pended three gilt cages, containing small figures
of artificial birds; which sung by mechanism.
In the centre of the room stood an enormous
gilt brasier, supported, in an ewer, by four
massive claws, like the vessels for containing
water which are seen under sideboards in
England. Opposite to the entrance, on one
side of the apartment, was a raised bench,
crossing a door ; and upon this were placed
an embroidered napkin, a vase, and bason, for
washing the beard and hands. Over the bench,
upon the wall, was suspended the large em-
broidered porte-feuille, worked with silver thread
in yellow leather, which is carried in procession
when the Sultan goes to mosque, or elsewhere
in public, to contain the petitions presented by
his subjects. Within a small nook close to the
door was also a pair of yellow boots ; and upon
the bench, by the ewer, a pair of slippers of
the same materials. These are placed at the
entrance of every apartment frequented by the
Sultan. The floor was covered with Gobelins
tapestry; and the ceiling, as before stated, was
magnificently gilded and burnished. Groupes
of arms, such as pistols, sabres, and poignards.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 35

were disposed, with very singular taste and chap.
effect, over the different compartments of the * ■»- ^
walls; their handles and scabbards being
covered with diamonds of very large size,
which, as they glittered around, produced a
splendid effect in this most sumptuous chamber.

We had scarcely ended our survey, when,
to our great dismay, a Bostanghy made his
appearance within the apartment: fortunately
for us, his head was turned from the ^vindow ;
and we immediately sunk below it, creeping
upon our hands and knees, until we got clear
of the Garden of Hyacinths. Thence, ascend-
ing to the upper walks, we passed an aviary of
nightingales.

The walks in the upper garden are very Upper
small, in wretched condition, and laid out m the^emg-
worse taste than the fore court of a Diitchmans
house in the suburbs of the Hague. Small as
they are, they constituted, until lately, the
whole of the Seraglio Gardens near the sea;
and from them may be seen the whole prospect
of the entrance to the Canal, and the opposite
coast of Scutary. Here, in an old kiosk, we saw
a very ordinary marble slab, supported upon
iron cramps, which, nevertheless, was a pre-
sent from Charles the Twelfth of Sweden. It is

VOL. III. D

36 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, precisely the sort of sideboard seen in the
> poorest inns of England; and, while it may
be said that no person would pay half the
amount of its freight to send it back again,
it shews the nature of the presents that were
then made to the Porte by foreign Princes.
From these formal terraces we descended to
the Gardener's lodge, and left the gardens by
the gate through which we entered.

This copious description of the interior of the
Seraglio would not have been introduced, but
in the hope that an account of it might afford
amusement, owing to the secluded nature of the
objects to which it refers, and the little proba-
bility there is of so favourable an opportunity
being again granted, to any traveller, for a
similar investigation'.

(l) This visit of the author to the interior of the Sultans palace, as it
has excited more of sensation than the subject merits, so has the account
of it been also liable to misrepresentation and to reproof. It has beers
urged, that the German gardener's safety may be endangered by its pub-
lication ; although this gentleman had left Constantinople, to reside at
Vienna, when the Jirsl edition of tliis Work appeared. It has been more-
over said, that the author was not the first Christian traveller who had
explored the interior of the Seraglio ; which, perhaps, may be true. All
that he maintains is this ; that no Christian traveller ever before ven-
tured to examine the whole of the interior of the Charem, whatever may
have happened since the time when this visit was made. Many were en-
couraged, by his example, to oblain admission afterwards into the Seraglio

Gardens;

CONSTANTINOPLE. 37

Gardens.- but a sight of those gardens does not necessarily imply that of CHAP
the Charem, which is a part of the Sultan's palace very differently circum- ^*

ctanced; and it is from confounding these together, that the author's ^

observations with regard to the Charem in particular have been applied to
the Seraglio in general. De La Motraye indeed, by means of a French
watch-maker, was enabled to see a part of the women's apartments in the
Winter Palace ; but this is a very different part of the Seraglio, as appears
from his account of a descent from it into the gardens, by means of a stair-
case, {See Vol. \.p. 173. Lond. 1732,) which the author also ascended, in
going from the Gardtn of Hyacinths, after he had quitted the Charem.

Constantinople, from the British UTinister'.'i Palace.

CHAP. 11.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

Procession of the Grand Signior, at the Opening of tlie
Bairam — Observations on the Church of St. Sophia-—
Other Mosques of Constantinople — Dance of the
Dervishes — Howling Dervishes — Cursory Observations
— Bazar of the Booksellers — Greek Manuscripts —
Exercises of the Athletse — Hippodrome — Obelisk —
Delphic Pillar.

CHAP. IJ N E of the great sights in Constantinople is
^— V ' the Procession of the Grand Signior, when he

CONSTANTINOPLE. 39

goes from the Sei-aglio to one of the principal chap.
mosques of the city. At the opening of the >

Bairam, this ceremony is attended with more Procession
than ordinary magnificence. We were present Grand sig-

ttior, at the

Upon that occasion; and although a detail of opening of

, -1-1 1 thc^aiVam.

the procession would occupy too much space
in the text, it may be deemed unobtrusive, and
perhaps interesting, as a note.

Our ambassador invited us, on the preceding
evening, to be at the British palace before sun-
rise ; as the procession was to take place the
moment the sun appeared. We were punctual
in our attendance ; and being conveyed, with
the ladies of the ambassador's family, and
many other persons attached to the embassy,
in the small boats which ply at Tophana, we
landed in Constantinople; and were all stationed
within the stall of a blacksmith's shop, which
opened into one of the dirty narrow streets
near the Hippodrome; and through this street
the procession was to pass. It was amusing
to see the Representative of the King of Great
Britain, with his family and friends, squatted
upon little stools, among horse-shoes, anvils,
old iron, and horse-dung. Upon his first
arrival, some cats, taking alarm, brought down
a considerable portion of the tiUng from the
roof; and this, as it embarrassed his party.

40 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, excited the lauo^hter of the Turks in the neio^h-
s ..y- ^ bourhood, who seemed much amused with the
humihating figure presented by the groupe of
Infidels in the smithy.

We had not been long in this situation, be-
fore the Janissaries, with their large felt caps and
white staves, ranged themselves on each side
of the street leading to the mosque : forming an
extensive line of sallow-looking objects, as
novel to an Englishman's eye as any in the
Turkish empire.

About a quarter of an hour before the pro-
cession began, the Imam, or High-Priest, passed,
. with his attendants, to the mosque, to receive
the Sultan. They were in four covered waggons,
followed by twenty priests on horseback. The
procession then began ; and continued, accord-
ing to the order given below \ Afterwards, it

(l) Procession of the Grand Signior, at the Opening
of the Bairam.

A BosTANGHY*, ou foot, bearing a wand.

FourBALTAGiiiES, or Cooks of the Seraglio.

Fifteen Za'Im, or Messengers of State.

4. Thir-

• The Bostanghies were originally gardeners of the Seraglio, but are now the Sttlttxi
body guard. Their number amounts to several thousands.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 41

returned in the same manner, although not with chap.

II.
the same degree of res^ularity.

4.
Thirteen of the Chiaoux, or Constables, with embroidered turbans.

A party of Servants of the Seraglio.

Thirty Capighy Bashtes, or Porters of the Seraglio, in high white

caps, and robes of flowered satin ; flanked byBaltaghies, or Cooks,

on each side, who were on horseback, with wands.

Baltagiiies, on foot, with caps of a conical form, and white wands.

8,
Fourteen ditto, more richly dressed, and mounted on superb horses.

Other Baltaghies, on foot.

10,

Ten of the High Constables on horseback.

. II-

Forty Servants on foot.

12.-

The Teftirdagh, or Financier of the Realm, on horseback, most

magnificently caparisoned.

13.

Forty Servants on foot.

14.

The REIS EFFENDY, or Prime Minister, in a rich green pelisse,

on a magnificent charger with most sumptuous housings, &c.

15.

Twenty Servants.

16.

The great body of the Chiaoux, or Constables, with magnificent

dresses, and plumes on their heads.

17.

The Colonel of the Janissaries, with a helmet covered by enormous

plumes.

18.

A party of Fifty Constables t)f the Army, in full uniform, with

embroidered turbans.

19. Tea

42 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. When the ceremony concluded, the Grand
V ^. > Signior, accompanied by the principal officers

19.

Ten beautiful Arabian Led Horses, covered with the most costly

trappings.

20.

The CAPUDAN PASHA, on one of the finest horses covered with

jewelled housing's, in a rich green pelisse lined with dark fur,

and a white turban.

21.

BoSTANGHiES, on foot, with white wands.

22.

Ten Porters belonging to the Grand Vizier.

23.

The Kaimakan, on horseback, as Representative of the Grand Vhier,

in a rich crimson pelisse lined with dark fur, and accompanied by the

appendages of oflRce.

24.

Twenty Servants, on foot, bearing different articles.

25.

Twenty of the Grooms of State, on horseback, followed by slaves.

26.

The Master of the Horse, in embroidered satin robes.

27.

Servants on foot.

28.

The Deputy Master of the Horse, in robes of embroidered satin.

29.

Servants on foot.

30.

inferior Chamberlains of the Seraglio, on horseback.

31.

BosTANGHiES, with white wands, on foot.

32.

The Sumpter-Horses of the Sultan, laden with the (indent Armour

taken from the Church of St. Irene in the Seraglio; among' which

were antient Grecian bucklers, and shields, ir.agni/icentli/

embossed, and studded with gems.

33. Forty

* CONSTANTINOPLE. 43

of State, went to exhibit himself in a kiosk, or chap.
tent, near to the Seraglio Point, sitting on a ^. »■■ *

33.

Forty BoSTANGHiES, bearing two turbans of State, flanked, on each

side, by Porters.

84.

An officer, with a bottle of water.

35.

Fifteen Bostanghies, in burnished helmets, bearing two stools of State,

flanked on each side by Porters.

36.

The Grand Chamberlain, most sumptuously mounted.

37.

Bostanghies, in burnished helmets covered by very high plumes.

38.

Lofty waving plumes, supported by Chamberlains on foot.

39.
The grand 5/GiV/O^, on a beautiful managed Arabian

horse covered with jewels and embroidery, in a ' —

scarlet pelisse lined with dark fur, and a white

turban ; flanked, on each side, by tall

Plumes, supported by Chamberlains.

40.

Lofty waving Plumes, supported by Chamberlains on foot.

41.

Slaves of the Seraglio, in black satin, having poignards in their girdles,

the handles being studded with pearls.

42.

Bostanghies, on foot.

43.

The Seliktar Agha, or Sword-bearer of State, carrying a magnificent

sabre.

44.

A party of Attendants, on foot.

45.

The Agnator Agha, or High Chamberlain, on horseback,

scattering /?ar<i5, the small coin of the empire, among the people.

46.

Party of Attendants, on foot.

47. The

44 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, sofa of silver. We were enabled to view this

II.
V .y '' singular instance of parade, from a boat sta-
tioned near the place; and, after the Sultan
retired, were permitted to examine the splendid

47.

The KiSLAR Agha, or Chief of the Black Eunuchs, on horseback,

making his salaams to the people, and flanked, on each side,

hy a party of Bostanghies.

48.

Other Ollicers of the Seraglio, on horseback.

49.

The Secretary of State, on horseback, bearing the Grand-Signwr's

embroidered leathern imrte-feidlle.

50.

A Party of Attendants.

51.

The Channator Agha, or Second of the Black EunuchSj on horseback.

52.

Party of Attendants.

53.

The inferior Black Eunuchs of the Seraglio.

54.

Attendants.

55.

The Treasurer of State.

56.

Black Eunuchs.

57.

The Caiveghy Basiiy, or Coffee-bearer of the Grand Signior.

58.

Two Turbans of State, on Sumpter-Horses.

59.

Party of Black Eunuchs, in very magnificent dresses,

60.

Officers of the Seraglio; followed by a numerous suite of Attendants,

some of whom were leading painted Mules, carrying carpets

and various utensils.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 45

pageant brought out for the occasion. It was a chap.
very large wooden couch, covered with thick .

plates of massive silver, highly burnished.
From the form of it, as well as from the style
in which it was ornamented, there is little
doubt that this also constituted a part of the
treasury of the Greek Emperors, when Conslan-
tinople was taken by the Turks.

Among the misrepresentations made to
strangers who visit Constantinople, they are told
that it is necessary to be attended by a Janissary
in the streets of the city. In the first place, this
is not true : in the second, it is the most
imprudent plan a traveller can adopt. It makes
a public display of want of confidence in the
people ; and, moreover, gives rise to continual
dispute, when any thing is to be purchased of
the Turks; besides augmenting the price of any
article required, exactly in the proportion of
the sum privately exacted by the Janissary, as
his share of the profit. Another misrepresen-
tation is, that a Jirman from the Grand Signior
is requisite to gain admission to the Mosque of
St. Sophia; whereas, by giving eight piastres to
the person whose business it is to shew the
building, it may be seen at any time'.

(l) At the same time as a Firman is necessary, in order to see the
other mosques of the city, it may be proper to add, that having

obtained

46 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. Tlie architectural merits of St. Sophia and

u«-^ St. Peters have been often relatively discussed ;

tionrmuhe jst thcy rcasonablj enter into no comparison.
s!^Zt'n"a. ^^ accounts have been more exaggerated than
those which refer to the former, whose gloomy
appearance is well suited to the ideas we
entertain of its present abject and depraved
state. In the time oiProcopius, its dome might
have seemed suspended by a chain from heaven ;
but at present, it exhibits much more of a
subterraneous, than of an aerial character ;
neither does it seem consistent with the per-
fection of an edifice intended to elevate the
mind, that the entrance to it should be by a
descent, as into a cellar. The approach to the
Pantheon at Rome, as well as to the spacious
aisle and dome of St. Peters, is by ascending ;
but in order to get beneath the dome of

obtained one for the purpose of gaining admission to St. Sophia, it is
also a passport to all the others. The words of the Firmdn for seeing
the mosques, when literally translated, are as follow.

" To the Keepers and Priests of the Great St. Sophia, and
" other Holy Mosques of the Sultans.
" It heivg customary to grant to the subjects of powerful yillies permis-
" ition to visit the Holy Mosques; and at this time, having taken into
" our consideration an application made by certain JEitglish Gentlemen
" travelling in these Countries, to enter the Mosques of this City, we
" hereby consent to their request ; granting to them our permission
"to view the holy tern pie of St. Sophia, and other Mosques of the
" Sultans : also ordaining, upon their coming, accompanied by the
" respective guards appointed for that purpose, that you do conduct them
" everywhere, and allow them free observation of all things, according
" to established usage."

CONSTANTINOPLE. 47

Si. Sophia, the spectator is conducted down a chap.
long flight of stairs. We visited it several , . ^1 .
times, and always with the same impression.
There is, moreover, a littleness and confused
Gothic barbarism in the disposition of the parts
which connect the dome with the foundation ;
and in its present state it is bolstered on the
outside with heavy buttresses, like those of a
bridge. Mosaic work remains very entire in
many parts of the interior. The dome seems
to have been adorned with an uniform coating
of gilded tessera, which the Turhs are constantly
removing for sale ; attaching superstitious vir-
tues to those loose fragments of Mosaic, from
the eagerness of strangers to procure them.
In the great arch, opposite to the principal
entrance, the Mosaic is coloured, and represents
the figures of Saints, of the Virgin, and groupes
of enormous wings without bodies. We copied
a few letters of an Inscription in that part of
the building, which were, beyond all doubt,
coeval with the edifice itself; and therefore,
although they ofier a very imperfect legend, it is
proper they should be preserved ; nothing of the
kind having hitherto been noticed in St. Sophia.

O C K A I X PYCOY
HE NTHKONTA
TAAANTA0EOK
. . N . . . O I CN E
. E K E I

48 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. The engravings published by Banduri\ from
'■ y. < drawings by Grelot, connected with his own
description, afford so accurate a representation
of this building, that any further account of it
would be superfluous. Many absurd stories
have been circulated concerning the contents of
some small chapels once used as oratories, the
doors of which are seen in the wails of the
galleries. Great interest was making, while
we remained in Constantinople, to have these
chambers examined. A little gold soon opened
all the locks ; and we scrutinized not only the
interior of these apartments, but also every
other part of the building. They were all
empty, and only remarkable for the Mosaic
work covering the ceilings. Some of the doors
were merely openings to passages, conducting
to the leads and to the upper parts of the
building ; these were also either empty, or filled
with mortar, dust, and rubbish. Still more
absurd is the pretended phosphoric light, said
to issue from a mass of lapis lazuli in one of
the gallery walls. This marvellous phsenomenon
was pointed out by our guide, who consented,
for a small bribe, to have the whole trick
exposed. It is nothing more than a common
slab of marble, which, being thin and almost

(l) Imperium Orienta^le, torn. II. Pam, IT 11.

nople.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 49

worn through, transmits a feeble light, from chap.

the exterior, to a spectator in the gallery. By v , >

going to the outside, and placing a hat over the
place, the light immediately disappears.

The other mosques of Constantinople have other
been built after the plan of St. Sophia; and conuanu-
particularly that of Sultan Solyman, which is a
superb edifice, and may be said to offer a mini-
ature representation of the model whence it
was derived. It contains twenty-four columns
of granite and of Cipolino marble, together with
«ome very large circular slabs of porphyry.
Four granite columns within the building are
near five feet in diameter, and from thirty-five
to forty in height. There are also two superb
pillars of porphyry at the entrance of the court.
The Mosque of Saltan Bajazet is rich in antient
columns of granite, porphyry, verde antico, and
marble: two of them, within the mosque, are
thirty feet high, and five feet in diameter. In
the mosque called Osmania, are pillars of Egyp-
tian granite, twenty-two feet high, and three
feet in diameter ; and near it is the celebrated
soros of red poi-phyry, called the To?nb of Con-
stantine, nine feet long, seven feet wide, and five
feet thick, of one entire mass. This mosque is
also famous for its painted glass, and is paved
with marble. In the Mosque of Sultan Achmed

50 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, are columns of verde antico, Egyptian granite,

^ I I,. ^1 and white marhle. Several antique vases of

glass, and of terra cotta, are also there suspended ;

as perhaps similar vessels were in the temples

of the Antients, with the other votive offerings.

Dance of lu a mosquc at Tophana was exhibited the
ushes^." Dance of the Dervishes; and in another, at
Scutari/, the exhibition of the Howling Priests;
ceremonies so extraordinary, that it is necessary
to see them, in order to believe that they are
really practised by human beings, as acts of
devotion. We saw them both : and first, were
conducted to behold the Dance at Tophana.

As we entered the mosque, we observed
twelve or fourteen Dervishes walking slowly
round, before a superior, in a small space sur-
rounded with a balustrade, beneath the dome
of the building. Several spectators were sta- ,
tioned on the outside of the railing ; and being,
as usual, ordered to take off our shoes, we
joined the party. In a gallery over the entrance
were stationed two or three performers on the
tambourine and Turkish pipes. Presently the
Dervishes, crossing their arms over their breasts,
and with each of their hands grasping their
shoulders, began obeisance to the Superior,
who stood v/ith his back against the wall, facing

CONSTANTINOPLE. 51

the door of the mosque. Then each, in sue- chap.
cession, as he passed the Superior, having < ^- <
finished his bow, began to turn round, first
slowly, but afterwards with such velocity, that
his long garments flying out in the rotatory
motion, the whole party appeared spinning like
so many umbrellas upon their handles. As
they began, their hands were disengaged from
their shoulders, and raised gradually above their
heads. At length, as the velocity of the whirl
increased, they were all seen, with their arms
extended horizontally, and their eyes closed,
turning with inconceivable rapidity. The music,
accompanied by voices, served to animate them;
while a steady old fellow, in a green pelisse,
continued to walk among them, with a fixed
countenance, and expressing as much care and
watchfulness as if his life would expire with
the slightest failure in the ceremony. We
noticed a method which they all observed in
the exhibition ; it was that of turning one of
their feet, with the toes as much inward as
possible, at every whirl of the body, while the
other foot kept its natural position. The elder
of these Dervishes appeared to perform the task
with so little labour or exertion, that, although
their bodies were in violent agitation, their
countenances resembled those of persons in an
easy sleep. The younger part of the dancers

52 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, moved with no less velocity than the others;
but it seemed in them a less mechanical ope-
ration. This extraordinary exercise continued
for the space of fifteen minutes ; a length of
time, it might be supposed, sufficient to exhaust
life itself during such an exertion ; and our
eyes began to ache with the sight of so many
objects all turning one way. Suddenly, on a
signal given by the directors of the dance,
unobserved by the spectators, the Dervishes all
stopped at the same instant, like the wheels of
a machine, and, what is more extraordinary, all
in one circle, with their faces invariably towards
the centre, crossing their arms on their breasts,
and grasping their shoulders as before, bowing
together with the utmost regularity, at the same
instant, almost to the ground. We regarded
them with astonishment, not one of them being
in the slightest degree out of breath, heated, or
havins: his countenance at all chans^ed. After
this, they began to walk, as at first ; each fol-
lowing the other within the balustrade, and
passing the Superior as before. As soon as
their obeisance had been made, they began to
turn again. This second exhibition lasted as
long as the first, and was similarly concluded.
They then began to turn for the third time;
and, as the dance lengthened, the music grew
louder and more animating : perspiration now

CONSTANTINOPLE.' 53

became evident upon the features of the Der- ^^^^*
vkhes ; the extended garments of some among v > *■ '
them began to droop ; and little accidents oc-
curred, such as their striking against each other :
they nevertheless persevered, until large drops
of sweat falling from their bodies upon the floor,
such a degree of friction was thereby occasioned,
that the noise of their feet rubbing the floor
was heard by the spectators. Upon this, the
third and last signal was made for them to haJt,
and the dance ended.

This extraordinary performance is considered
miraculous by the Turks. By their law, every
species of dancing is prohibited ; and yet, in
such veneration is this ceremony held, that an
attempt to abolish it would excite insurrection
among the people.

There is still another instance of the most
extraordinary superstition perhaps ever known
in the history of mankind, full of the most
shameless and impudent imposture : it is, the
exhibition of pretended miracles, wrought in
consequence of the supposed power of faith,
by a sect who are called the Hoivling Dervishes HowUng
of Scutary. Their orgies were before alluded ^""•"**"*
to, as being similar to those practised, accordmg
to Sacred Scripture, by the priests of Baal ;

VOL. III. , E

64 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, and they are probably a remnant of the
most antient heathen ceremonies of Eastern
nations. The Turks hold this sect in greater
veneration than they do even the Dancing
Dervishes.

We passed over to Scutary, from Pera, ac-
companied by a Janissary, and arrived at the
place where this exhibition is made. The
Turks called it a mosque ; but it more resem-
bled a barn, and reminded us of the sort of
booth fitted up with loose planks by mendicant
conjurers at an English fair. This resemblance
was further increased, by our finding at the
entrance two strange figures, who, learning the
cause of our visit, asked if we wished to have
the "Jire and dagger business" introduced among
the other performances. We replied, by ex-
pressing our inclination to see as much of their
rites as they might think proper to exhibit :
upon this, we were told that we must pay
something more than usual, for the miracles.
A bargain was therefore made, upon condition
that we should see all the miracles. We were
then permitted to enter the mosque, and
directed to place ourselves in a small gallery,
raised two steps from the floor. Close to one
extremity of this gallery, certain of the Der-
vishes were employed in boiling coffee upon two

CCfNSTANTINOPLE. . 65

brasiers of lighted charcoal : this was brought
to us in small cups, with pipes, and stools for
seats. At the other extremity of the gallery,
a party of Turks were also smoking, and drink-
ing coffee. Upon the walls of the mosque were
suspended daggers, skewers, wire scourges,
pincers, and many other dreadful instruments
of torture and penance. It might have been
supposed a chamber of the Inquisition, if the
ludicrous mummery around had not rather given
to it the air of a conjurer's booth. It was a
long time before the ceremony began. At
length, the principal Dervish, putting on his
robe of state, which consisted of a greasy
green pelisse with half-worn fur, opened the
business of the exhibition. At first, they re-
peated the ordinary prayers of the Turks; in
which our Janissary joined, after having washed
his head, feet, and hands. All strangers after-
wards withdrawing to the gallery, a most ragged
and filthy set of Dervishes seated themselves
upon the floor, forming a circle round their
Superior.

These men began to repeat a series of words,
as if they were uttering sounds by rote ; smil-
ing, at the same time, with great complacency
upon each other: presently, their smiles were
converted to a laugh, seemingly so unaffected"

E 2

56 CONSTANTINOPLE.

and so hearty, that we sympathetically joined
in their mirth. Upon this, our Janissary and
Interpreter became alarmed, and desired us to
use more caution ; as the laughter we noticed
was the result of religious emotion, arising
from the delight experienced in pronouncing
the attributes of the Deity. During a full hour
the Dervishes continued laughing and repeating
the same words, inclining their heads and
bodies backwards and forwards. They then
all rose, and were joined by others, who
were to act a very conspicuous part in the
ceremony. These were some time in placing
themselves ; and frequently, after they had
taken a station, they changed their post again,
for purposes to us unknown. Finally, they all
stood in a semicircle before the Superior, and
then a dance began : this, without any motion
of the feet or hands, consisted of moving in a
mass from side to side, against each other's
shoulders, repeating rapidly and continually the
words Ullah, hoo Ullah! and laughing as before,
but no longer with any expression of mirth;
it seemed rather the horrid and intimidating
grimace of madness. In the mean time, the
Superior moved slowly forward, until he stood in
the midst of them, repeating the same words, and
marking the measure of utterance, by beating
his haofis, accompanied with a motion of his

CONSTANTINOPLE. 57

head. At this time another figure made his ^n^^'
appearance, an old man, very Hke the represen-
tations which Spagnolet painted of Diogenes, and
quite as ragged. Placing himself on the left
of the semicircle, with his face towards the
Dervishes, he began to howl the same words,
much louder, and with greater animation than
the rest ; and, beating time with all the force
of his arm, encouraged them to exertions they
were almost incapable of sustaining. Many of
them appeared to be almost exhausted, tossing
their heads about, while their laugh presented
one of the most horrible convulsions of features
the human countenance is capable of assuming.
Still the oscillatory motion and the howling
continued, becoming every instant more violent;
and the sound of their voices resembled the
grunting of dying hogs ; until at length one of
them gave a convulsive spring from the floor,
and, as he leaped, called loudly and vehemently
" Mohammed!'' No sooner was this perceived,
than one of the attendants taking him in his
arms, raised him from the floor, and turned
him three times round. Then a loud hissing
noise, as of fire, proceeded from his mouth,
which ceased on the Superior placing his hand
upon his lips. The same person then taking
the skin of his throat between the finger and
thumb of his left hand, pierced it thrpugl^ >yitb

58 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, an iron skewer he held in his right, and left
'■ i.,y...i.' him standing exposed to view in that situation,
caUing loudly upon Mohammed.

By this time, some of the others, apparently
exhausted, aiFected to be seized in the same
way, and they were turned round as their
comrade had been before. The person who
turned them supported them afterwards in his
arms, while they reclined their faces upon his
right shoulder, and evidently were occupied in
rinsing their mouths with something concealed
beneath his garments. The same process took
place respecting their hands, which were
secretly fortified in a similar way, by some
substance used to prevent the effect of fire
upon the skin\

We now observed the attendants busied, on
our right hand, below the gallery, heating irons
in the brasiers used for boiling the coffee. As
soon as the irons were made red hot, they
were taken in a glowing state among the
Dervishes, who, seizing them with violence.

(l) It is the same used by conjurers in Eiiglaiid, who pretend to be
fiie-eaters. In the selections which have appeared from the Gentle-
man's Magazine, this nostrum is made pubhc. It is prepared from
sulphur.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 59

began to lick them with their tongues. While
we were occupied in beholding this extra-
ordinary sight, our attention was suddenly
called off to one of the performers, who was
stamping in a distant part of the mosque, with
one of the irons between his teeth. This
was snatched from him by the Superior;
and the man falling into apparent convul-
sions, was caught by an attendant, and
placed upon the floor, with his face to the
earth. Some of the rest then jumped about*
stabbing themselves in different parts of their
bodies.

A noise of loud sobbing and of lamentation
was now heard in a latticed gallery above,
where some women were stationed, who being
completely duped by the artifices which had
been practised, became sufficiently alarmed.
As we were already disgusted with such
outrages upon religion, under any name, we
descended from the gallery, and prepared to
walk out; when the Superior, fearing that
his company might give him the slip, in-
stantly put an end to the leger-de-main, and
demanded payment. While this took place,
it was highly amusing to see all i\\Qjire-eat€rs,
and the dagger-hearers, recover at once from
their fainting and convulsions, and walk about.

60 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, talking with each other in perfect ease and
' indifference'.

If what has been here stated is not enough
to prove the contemptible imposture practised
upon these occasions, a circumstance that oc-
curred afterwards will put the matter beyond
all doubt.

A Swiss gentleman, acting as goldsmith and
jeweller to the Grand Signior, invited us, with
a large party of other Englishmen, to dine at
his house in Constantinople. When dinner was
ended, one of the Hoiuling Dervishes, the most
renowned for his miraculous powers, was
brought in, to amuse the company as a common
conjurer. Taking his seat on a divan at the
upper end of the room, he practised all the
tricks we had seen at the mosque, with the
exception of the hot irons, for which he con-
fessed he was not prepared. He affected to
stab himself, in the eyes and the cheeks, with
large poignards; but, upon examination, we soon

(l) It has heen deemed proper to insert this circumstance, because
it has been stated, that, " totally exhausted by paio and fatigue, they
" fall to the ground in a senseless trance ; uhen tliey are removed to
*' their chambers, and nursed with the greatest care, until their
*' recovery enables them to repeat so severe a proof of their devotion.''
S.GE Constantinople, Antient and Modern, Sfc. by Dallaway, p. 1 1Q.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 61

discovered that the blades of the weapons were
admitted by springs into their handles, like
those used upon the stage in our theatres.
There was one trick which he performed with
extraordinary skill and address ; it was that of
drawing a sabre across his naked body, after
having caused the skin of the abdomen to lapse
over the blade.

As soon as this exhibition ended, we were
told by our host that the Dervish should now
bear testimony to a miracle on our part : and,
as he had no conception of the manner in which
it was brought about, it was probably never
afterwards forgotten by him. A large electrical
apparatus stood within an adjoining apartment;
the conductors from which, passing into the
room, as common bell-wires, had been con-
tinued along the seat occupied by the Dervish^
reaching the whole length of the divan. As
soon as he began to take breath, and to repose
himself from the fatigue of his tricks, a shock
from the electrical machine was communicated,
that made him leap higher than ever he had
done for the name of Mohammed. Seeing no
person near, and every individual of the com-
pany affecting tranquillity and unconcern, he
was perfectly panic-struck. Ashamed, however,
that an inspired priest, and one of the guardians

62 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, of the miracles of Idam, should betray causeless
' J ' alarm, he ventured once more to resume his
seat; whence, as he sat trembling-, a second
shock sent him fairly out of the house ; nor
could any persuasion, accompanied by a promise
of explaining the whole that had happened to
him, prevail upon him to return, even for the
payment which was due to him.

Cursory ^ fg^ cursorv obscrvatious will now include

Observa- "^

tions. almost all that remains of the Notes made during
the author's first residence in Constantinople.

Every thing is exaggerated that has been
said of the riches and magnificence of this city.
Its inhabitants are ages behind the rest of the
world. The apartments in their houses are
always small. The use of coloured glass in the
windows of the mosques, and in some of the
palaces, is of remote date : it was introduced
mto England, with other refinements, by the
Crusaders ; and perhaps we may attribute to the
same people the style of building observed in
many of our most antient dwelling-houses ;
where, in the diminutive pannelling of the
wainscot, and the form of the windows, an
evident similarity appears to what is common
m Turkey. The lihans for the bankers seem to
rank next to the mosques, among the pubUc

CONSTANTINOPLE. 63

edifices of any note. The Menas:erie shewn to chap.

"r II.

strangers is the most filthy hole in Europe, and >

it is chiefly tenanted by rats The pomp of

a Turk may be said to consist in his pipe and
his horse: the first will cost from twenty to
twenty thousand piastres. That of the Capudan
Pasha had a spiral ornament of diamonds from
one end to the other; and it was six feet in
length. Coffee-cups are adorned in the same
costly manner. A saddle-cloth embroidered
and covered with jewels, stirrups of silver, and
other rich trappings, are used by their grandees
to adorn their horses The boasted illumi-
nations of the Ramadan would scarcely be
perceived, if they were not pointed out. The
suburbs of London are more brilliant every night
in the year.

As to the antiquities of Constantinople, those
"which are generally shewn to strangers have
been often and ably described. There is a
method of obtainino- medals and g-ems which
has not, however, been noticed; this is, by
application to the persons who contract for the
product of the common sewers, and are em-
ployed in washing the mud and filth of the city.
In this manner we obtained, for a mere trifle,
some interesting remains of antiquity ; among
which may be mentioned, a superb silver medal

64 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, oi Antliony and Cleopatra; a silver medal of
V y > Chalcedon of the highest antiquity; and an
intaglio onyx, representing the Flight of jEneas
from Troy. There is every reason to believe,
that, within the precincts of this vast city, many
fine remains of antient art may hereafter be
discovered. The courts of Turkish houses are
closed from observation; and in some of these
are magnificent soroi, concealed from view,
serving as cisterns to their fountains. In the
floors of the different baths are also, in all
probability, many inscribed marbles; the charac-
ters of which, being turned downwards, escape
even the observation of the Turhs. No monu-
ment was perhaps ever more calculated to
exhibit the surprising talents of antient sculptors,
than the Column of Arcadius, as it formerly stood
in the Forum of that Emperor. According to
the fine representations of its bas-reliefs, en-
graved from Bellini s drawings for the work of
Banduri, the characteristic features of the
Russians were so admirably delineated in the
figures of Scythian captives, that they are
evident upon the slightest inspection'.

(l) Imperium Orientale, torn. II. p. 521. The Reader, referring
to the work, is requested to attend particularly to the portraits of
the Scythian monarch and of one of his nobles, in the third
plate.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 65

It is somewhat singular, that, amons^st all chap.

the literary travellers who have described the
curiosities of Constantinople, no one has hitherto
noticed the market for Manuscripts ; yet it would
be difficult to select an object more worthy of
examination. The lazar of the booksellers does
not contain all the works enumerated by DHer-
kelot ; but there is hardly any Oriental author,
whose writings, if demanded, may not be
procured ; although every volume offered for
sale be manuscript. The number of shops
employed in this way, in that market and else-
where, amounts to a hundred : each of these
contain, upon an average, five hundred volumes ;
so that no less a number than fifty thousand
manuscripts, Arabic, Persian, and Turkish, are
daily exposed for sale. One of our first endea-
vours was to procure a general catalogue of the
writings most in request throughout the empire;
that is to say, of those works which are con-
stantly upon sale in the cities of Constantinople,
Aleppo, and Cairo; and also of their prices.
This we procured through the medium of a
Dervish. The whole of this Catalosfue is griven
in the Appendix ; and it may be considered as
offering a tolerable view of the general state of
Oriental literature ; such, for example, as might
be obtained of the literature of Britain, by the
catalogues of any of the principal booksellers of

11.

Greek Ma-
nuscriiils.

66 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. London and Edinburgh. The causes of disap-
>■ pointment, which has so often attended the

search after manuscripts by literary persons sent
out from the Academies of Europe, may be
easily explained. These men have their resi-
dence in Pera, whence it is necessary to go by
water to Constantinople. The day is generally
far spent before they reach the place of their
destination ; and, when arrived, they make
their appearance followed by a Janissary. The
venders of manuscripts, who are often Emirs,
and sometimes Dervishes, beholding an Infidel
thus accompanied, gratifying what they consider
to be an impertinent, and even a sacrilegious
curiosity, among volumes of their religion and
law, take offence, and refuse not only to sell*
but to exhibit any part of their collection. The
best method is, to employ a Dervish, marking in
the catalogue such books as he may be required
to purchase ; or to go alone, unless an inter-
preter be necessary. We found no difficulty in
obtaining any work that we could afford to buy.
Tlie manuscript of ** The Arabian Nights^" is not
easily procured, and for this reason; it is a

(1) As there have been different statements made respecting the
title of this Compilation in the East, we shall write the name of it
exactly as it is pronounced by the booksellers of Turkey, and especially
tliose of Grand Cairo, who call this work *' Alf Leela o Lila."

II.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 67

compilation, made according to the taste and chap.
opportunity of the writer, or the person who
orders it of the scribes; it is found only in
private hands ; and there are not two copies of
it which contain the same Tales. We could
not obtain this work in Constantinople, but after-
wards we bought a very fine copy of it in Grand
Cairo. It was not until the second winter of
our residence in Pera, that we succeeded, by
means of a Dervish of our acquaintance, in pro-
curing a Catalogue from one of the principal
shops. The master of it was an Emir, a man
of considerable attainment in Oriental literature,
from whom we had purchased several manu-
scripts, which are now in the Bodleian Library at
Oxford. Whenever we applied to this man for
works relating to poetry or to history, he was
very willing to supply what was wanted ; but if
we ventured only to touch a Koran, or any
other volume held sacred in Turkish estima-
tion, our business terminated abruptly for
that day. There are similar manuscript markets
in all the Turkish cities, particularly tliose
of Aleppo and of Cairo. Many works, com-
mon in Cairo, are not to be met with in
Constantinople. The Beys have more taste
for literature than the Turks; and the women,
shut up in the Charems of Egypt, pass many
of their solitary hours in listening to persons

gg CONSTANTINOPLE.

cfiAP. who are employed to read to them for their
- ■■ amusement.

Nor is the search after Greek manuscripts so
unsuccessful as persons are apt to imagine.
By employing, an intelligent Greek priest, we
had an opportunity of examining a great variety
of volumes, brought irom the Isle of Princes,
and from the private libraries of Greek princes
resident at the Phcmar\ It is true, many of

(i) Greeks cf the Phanar.

*^ There are six Greek families of inore note than the rest, who
live at Phandr, a distrirt in the nortlicrn part of the city, near the
ieay their names are, Ipsilandi, JMoroozi, Cairiindchi, Soozo, Hand-
Vzerli, and Mavroeordato. These liave either aspired to, or obtained
in their turns, the situation of Hospodar, or Prince, of Walaehia,
and Moldavia. In 1806, the Porte \vas persuaded, by the French, to
believe that Ipsilandi and Moroozi, the Hospodars of the two pro-
vinces, were in the interest of Russia ; and in the month of September
of that year, they were removed ; Soozo and CallimAchi being;
appointed in their room, by the interference of Sebastiaui, the French
ambassador. Moroozi, on his recal, came back to Constantinople ;
but Ipsilandi went to Russia, and thus brought on his family the
vengeance of the Porte. His fatl)er, aged seventy-four, who had been
four times Prince of Walaehia, was beheaded January the 25tb, 1807,
while I was at Constantinople. Among the articles of accusation
brought against him, it was alleged, that he had fomented the
rebellion of the Servians; and that, at the time when the troops of
the Nizam Jedit were about to march against the Janissaries of
Adrianople, he bad given intimation of this, through Mustapha
Bairactar, a chief in the northern provinces of Turkey, to the Janis-
saries, who had accordingly prepared themselves for the designs of
the Porte.

•* The only persons in the Turkish empire w ho could in any way

promote

CONSTANTINOPLE. 69

tliem were of little value ; and some others, of chap.

1 Ml- iJ-

more importance, the owners were unwillmg to •

promote the cultivation of antient literature, and excite the Greeks
to shake off that ignorance in which they are plunged, are the Greek
Nobles of the Phaiiar. But, instead of using their influence with the
Government, to enable them to encourage and patronize schools in
parts of the Levant, they are only pacing in the trammels of political
intrigue, and, actuated by the ' lust of lucre,' or of power, are
doing what they can to obtain the offices of Interpreter to the Porte,
or of Patriarch ; or to succeed as Princes of Walachia and Moldavia.
Exce]>ting a Dictionary of modern Greek, which was published under
the patronage of one of the Mavrocordato family ; and a (^poyrKrrr.oicv,
or school, the expenses of wiiich were defrayed by one of the Aforoozi
family; all that has been done, to increase a knowledge of their lan-
guage among the Greeks, has been effected by the liberal and patriotic
exertions of Greek merchants, living at Venice, Trieste, or Vienna.
An undertaking, which would have been attended with great advantage,
had it not been frustrated by political interference, was a Translation
of the Travels of Anacharsis into modern Greek, accompanied «ith
proper maps. This was only begun ; the Greek who was employed in
it was put to death by the Porte : another Greek, of Yanina, called
Sakellaris, has, I believe, translated the whole. Works of this kind
would be productive of greater utility to the mass of the reading and
. industrious Greeks, than such performances as a translation of Virgil's
^neid into Greek Hexameters, which I saw at Constantinople,
published bj' the Greek bishop, Bulgari, who resided in Russia.

* The Greeks of the Phanitr are themselves very conversant with
the authors of antient Greece, and well understand most of the
modern languages of Europe. There is an affectation of using words
and phrases of old Greek, instead of the modern, even among the
servants and inferior people at the Phanar. The learned Coray is
exciting his countrymen, by his writings and example, to a study of
their antient language; and the Greek merchants, who are led to
visit the different cities of the Continent, return to thtir country with
information and useful knowledge, which is gradually diffused among
the Greeks connected with tlicm.

The following Advertisement, of an Exhibition of Wax-work at

VOL. III. r Pera,

II.

70 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. sell. The fact is, it is not money which such
men want. They will often exchange their
manuscripts for good printed editions of the
Greek Classics, particularly of the Orators.
Prince Alexander Bano Hantzerli had a magnifi-
cent collection of Greek manuscripts, and he long
corresponded with the author after his return

Pcra, may give the Reader a notion of the common Greek used at
that place.

EIAHSir.
'O Kv^ios KafiViiiir,i J^afcfiatU Twv Tifirtv va tloaife'irsffi^ Trio ivyniffrKTit*

KaivoT>ira, o~i viXhv loa fil ivoc fiiyec auWoytv nffffa^axeira xcti vnoiiffo-
Tiooiv a,yaXiJt,u,Tuit, to "prXittrrov fii^o; raJv Mova^^ciJ» tyi; EueM-rn;, xai
'jtoWtiiv aXXwi '!ri^t^n(i,at ii-roxiifiivcov, iv eis ih^iffKirai xcei fit'a 'Af^eoiTV-
"OXas ituroi ti; fi'iyJo; (fuffixh, xcci hiiSvfiiva ixaaTov xara to» fia^/iiy
Tti; a,%lecs rou.

Aura <ra uyaX/iurit ^ecfpt^fid^etrai xa$' ixafT'/iv uto ra ^tv^ve lais tJ;
easy ^ivn t?s vuxtos, lis to ffrav^oiocfAi, 'ivhov tou iffftnTicu rris Ku^icts
Tofia^Isas, ivava tU tI 'E^yafTri^i ho; Kovipirii^fi. Ta slyivn tivoxli-
ftivcc hXii ■^Xn^imu)! xarx rhv i^Xovfwtd^ap^av aurSt "x'^oxi^to'iy, 'H Ss
futn^ns Tifih wai y^oti sva il; xih a^i^waot.

Translation.
'NOTICE.

' Mr. Campioni has the honour to iriform the Nobility and Gentry, that
he is arrived here, with a large collection of forty and more Figures; the
greater part, of the Kings of Europe, and many other illustrious per-
sonages. Jtnong them is a Venus. All these are of the size of nature;
and dressed, each according to the quality of the person.

These Figures are exhibited every day, from the morning to eleven at
night, in the Staurodromo, in the house of Mrs. Thoniasina, above a
Confectioner's shop. The Nobility and Gentry will pay according to their
liberal dispositions ; hut the customary price is a piastre a head.'

" To confirm what I have said above, relating: to the knowledge
which some of the noble Greeks possess of their antient language, I
refer the Reader to the elaborate performance of Nicolas Mavrocordato,
who was Prince of Walachia, written in antient Greek ; the title of

which

CONSTANTINOPLE. 71

to England'. We sent to liim, from JParis, chap.
the original edition of the French Encydopedie;
and no contemptible idea may be formed of the
taste of men, who, situate as the Greek families
are in Constantinople, earnestly endeavour, by
such publications, to multiply their sources of
information. Some of the Greek manuscripts

which is, jrsjJ Ka(nr.ovrco)). This work was printed at Bucharest, in
1719: it contains nineteen chapters, and embraces a variety of moral
and religious topics, relating-, as its title imports, to the ' Duties of
Man.' The following paragraph is taken at random from the work,
as a specimen of the language :

aX\ ivif^v^o; tirriv al^^tui xcei lis (pZs aura v^eayayuv' xai tou; xav ihfuui
*/t?> ■'"^^ i%uhv fiivmi yi a^ila; aftei^wa;, 5 oXa; Iffrti^wrai ^po; Ivi^ynav
<rZv xaXuv, « xa& lavTov c^yuv y.ou ff^aSa^aiv, uxoXatfraUii, f/.n ctailaywyov-
fiivoi, fi'/in rwrovfjiivos ti; x^lffiv xa) a'l^ifiv a^irris.

' Nam et terra, cum non rigatur, continet quldem sinu siio, iit ita
dicnm, semina,sed adea vegetanda, et in luceni edcnda, itivalida est; et
mens quamvis habilis, si destituatur irrigatione, aut plane stenlescit ad
bonos actus, aut per se turgens et lasciviens prolene agit, dum noti insti-
tuitur etformatur ad discerncndam et eligendam virtutem.'

" The library of Nicolas Mavrocordato was stored with manuscripts
procured from the different monasteries in Greece, and the islands of
the Archipelago ; and so valuable was it in every respect, that Sevin,
who had been sent, by the Government of France, to collect manu-
scripts in the Levant, in a Letter from Constantinople to Maurepas,
dated Dec. 22, 1728, thus expresses himself: * La bibliotheque du
Prince du Valacbie peut aller de pair avec cellcs des plus grands
princes ; et depuis deux ans il a employ^ deux cents mille ecus en achats
des manuscrits Turcs, Arabes, et Persans.' " Wiilpole's MS. Journal.

(l) It was through his means that the author procured for Mr.
Cripps, at the particular instigation of the late Professor Parson, the
superb copy of the Orators, now in the possession of Dr, liumey.

V o

72 CONSTANTINOPLE.

GHAr. now in the Bodleian were originally in his pos-

• session; particularly a most exquisite copy of

the Four Gospels, of the tenth or eleventh

century, written throughout, upon vellum, in

the same minute and beautiful characters.

Athieicv. The exercises of the Athletce, whether derived
or not by the Turhs from the subjugated Greeks,
are still preserved, and often exhibited, in dif-
ferent towns of the empire'. The combatants

(l) " The combats of wrestling, which I have witnessed near
Smyrna, are the 5ame as those which the antient writers describe ;
and nothins^ strikes a traveller in the East more than the evident
adherence to customs of remote ages.

'The habit of 'girding the loins' was not formerly more
general than it is now, in the countries of the Levant. The effect of
this on the form of the body cannot fail of being observed at the baths,
in which the waists of the persons employed there are remarkable for
their smallness. The long sleeve worn at this time in all the East is
mentioned by Strabo, and Herodotus, lib. vii. The head was shorn
formerly, as now ; and the persons of common rank wore a lower sort
of turban, and those of dignity a high one ; as is the case to this day
in Turkey. {Salm. Plin. Exc. 393.) The following passage in
Plutarch {Vit. Themist.) describes a custom with which every one is
acquainted: The Persians carefully watch not only their wives, but
their slaves and concubines ; so that they are seen hy no one : at home,
they live shut up ; and ivhen on a journey, they ride in chariots covered
in on all sides' We find that antimony, the stibium of Pliny, wLich
is now employed by the women in the East, who draw a small wire
dipped in it between the two eye-lids, and give the eye an expression
much admired by them, was used in former times. Jezabel ' put her
eyes in paint,' (2 Kings, ix. 30.) and Xenophon calls this, oip^dX/aav
v7ra'Y^a(pr,. (f)e Cyri Jnst.) The corn is now trodden out by oxen or
horses, in an open area, as in the time of Homer ; (//. T. v. 4D5.)
and a passage of that poet, relating to fishing, would have been under-
stood,

CONSTANTINOPLE. 73

appear with their bodies oiled, having no other chap.
clothing than a tight pair of leathern breeches < — v— — '
covered also with oil. So much has been
already written upon these subjects, that any
further detail would be superfluous. Belon, in
his interesting work, composed near three cen-
turies ago, appropriated an entire chapter to a
description of the Turkish wrestling-matches \

The same observation is not applicable to the mppo-

ilrome>

Hippodrome; now called j^tmeidan, which also
signifies the Horse-course; because many erro-
neous statements have appeared with regard
to the antiquities it contains, particularly the
absurd story, generally propagated, concerning
the blow given by Mohammed the Second, with his
battle-axe, to the famous Delphic Pillar of three
brazen serpents : it is said he smote off the
head of one of the serpents. This place pre-
serves nearly the state in which it was left by
the Greeks. The mosque in front, near the

stood, if the commentators had known, that the Greeks, in fishing',
let the line with the lead at the end run over a piece of horn fixed on
the side of the boat ; this is the meaning of hcct ay^avXaio fioo; xi^as
tfi^ificcvTcc. {II. n. V. 81.) The flesh of the camel, which bears in
taste a resemblance to veal, is now eaten by the Turks, as also by the
Arabians, on days of festivity, as it was by the Persians in the time of
Herodotus. (Clio.)" Walpolt's MS. Journal.

(2) De la Luicte de Turquie, chap, xxxviii. liv. iii. des Singular,
observies par Belon, p. 201. /'w. 1555.

74 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. Obelisk, is that o^ Sultan Achmed; and the more
11.

^^ y ■' distant one, that of St. Sophia. Not a single
object has been either added or removed, to
interfere with the fideUty of the dehneation :
every thing is represented exactly as it appeared
to us at the time; although we were under
some apprehension from the Turks, who will
suffer nothing of this kind to be made with
their consent.

Obelisk. A representation of the Hippodrome is given in
bas-relief upon the base of the Obelisk : by this it
appears, that there were originally two obelisks,
one at either extremity of the course. That
which remains is about fifty feet in height,
according to Tournefort^ : it is of one entire
block of Egyptian granite. The manner in
which this immense mass was raised, and placed
upon its pedestal, by the Emperor Theodosius,
is represented also, in a series of bas-reliefs
upon its base. The workmen appear employed
with a number of windlasses, all brought, by
means of ropes and pulleys, to act at once upon
the stoned

(1) Tournefortf lett. 12. According to Bondelmord, its heis^ht is
fifty-eight feet; and this nearly coincides with the statement of
Mr. Dallaway, who makes it equal to sixty. See Dull. Constant, p. 67.

(2) See the engraving in JVhelcr's Travels, [Book ii. p. 183. Land.
1G82.) which gives a faithful representation of these has-reliefs.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 75

There is nothing- either grand or beautiful in chap.
^ ® II.

the remains of the Brazen Column, before men- v..»v— — ^

tioned, consisting of the bodies of three serpents mxaxT
twisted spirally together. It is about twelve
feet in height: being hollow, the Turks have
filled it with broken tiles, stones, and other
rubbish. But in the circumstances of its his-
tory, no relic of antient times can be more
interesting. It once supported the golden tripod
at Delphi, which the Greeks, after the battle of
Platcea, found in the camp of Mardonius. This
fact has been so well ascertained, that it will
probably never be disputed. '' The guardians
*' of the most holy relics," says Gibbon^, " would
*' rejoice, if they were able to produce such a
*' chain of evidence as may be alleged upon this
" occasion." Its original consecration in the
temple of Delphi is proved from Herodotus
and Pausanias; and its removal to Constan-
tinople, by ZosiMus, EusEBius, Socrates
EccLESiASTicus, and Sozomen*. Thevenot
relates the story of the injury done to the head
of one of the serpents by the battle-axe of

(3) Vol. II. c. 17. NoteW.

(4) See Cyllius {lib. ii. c. 13. Topog. Co7ist) The three heads
remaiued in his time ; for he describes them as placed in a triangular
form, rising high upon the shaft of tlie column. According to Euse-
Mus, it was a representation of the serpent Python.

v..

76 CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP. Mohammed. The history of the subsequent loss
of these heads is related by ChishulP. " The
" second pillar/' says he, " is of wreathed brass,
*' not above twelve feet high ; lately terminated
" at the top with figures of three serpents, rising
^' from the pillar, and with necks arid heads forming
" a beautiful triangle. But this monument v/as
" rudely broken from the top of the pillar, by
" so?ne attendants of the late Polish ambassador ,
" whose lodgings were appointed in the Cirque,
*' opposite to the said pillar." An absurd notion
has prevailed, that the present mutilated state
of the column originated in the blow it received
from the axe of Mohammed.

(1) Travels in Turkey, p. 40. Lond. 1747.

(2) After the publication of the first edition of this Part of the
author's Travels, one of the Reviewers contradicted this observation of
OtishuU; saying, " not of the Polish, but of the Imperial ambassador ;"
citing Dc La Motruye's Travels in support of the objection. It is
however founded upon one of those errors to which Reviewers as well
as Authors may be liable ; for De La Motraye distinctly states, t!;at
the ambassador was Count Lisinslty, Palatine oi Posen, " who came to

Constantinople in quality of Ambassador Extraordinary from the King
and Republic of Poland." See De La Motraye' s Travels, vol.\.
p. 205. Lond. 1732.

J'umulus (-;/ -l^syctt-t, unci Naval Station of tht Greeks

CHAP. III.

FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE PLAIN OF
TROY.

Arrival of an American Frigate — Departure frcnn
Constantinople — Dardanelles — Situation of Sestos —
Dismissal of the Corvette — Visit to the Pasha —
Voyage doivn the Hellespont — Appearance caused by
the Waters of the Mender — Udjek Tepe — Koum-kaU.

J. HE arrival of an American frigate, for the
first time, at Constantinople, caused considerable
sensation^ not only among the Turks, but also

FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

throughout the whole diplomatic corps stationed
in Pera. This ship, commanded by Captain
Bainbridge, came from Algiers, with a letter
and presents from the De]/ to the Sultan and
Capudan Pasha. The presents consisted of
tigers and other animals, sent with a view to
conciliate the Turkish Government, whom the
Dey had offended. When the frigate came to
an anchor, and a message went to the Porte
that an jimerican ship was in the harbour, the
Turks were altogether unable to comprehend
where the country was situate whose flag
they were to salute. A great deal of time was
therefore lost in settling this important point,
and in considering how to receive the stranger.
In the mean time, we went on board, to visit the
captain. We were sitting with him in his cabin,
when a messenger came from the Turkish
Government, to ask whether America were not
otherwise called the Neiu World; and, being
answered in the affirmative, assured the captain
that he was welcome, and that he would be
treated with the utmost cordiality and respect.
The messengers from the De7/ were then or/dered
on board the Capudan Pasha's ship ; wh6, re-
ceiving the letter from their sovereign with
great rage, first spat, and then stamped upon
it ; telling them to go back to their master, and
inform him, that be would be served after the

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 79

same manner, whenever the Turkish admiral chap.
met him. Captain Bainhridge was, however,
received with every mark of respect and at-
tention, and he was rewarded with magnificent
presents. The fine order of his ship, and the
healtliy state of her crew, became topics of
general conversation in Pera; and the different
ministers strove who should first receive him
in their palaces. We accompanied him in his
long-boat to the Black 6'ea,'uas he was desirous
of hoisting there, for the first time, the American
flag ; and, upon his return, were amused by a
very singular entertainment at his table during
dinner. Upon the four corners were as many,
decanters, containing fresh water from the four
quarters of the globe. The natives of Europe,
Asia, Africa, and America, sat down together to
the same table, and were regaled with flesh,
fruit, bread, and other viands ; while, of every
article, a sample from each quarter of the globe
was presented at the same time. The means of
accomplishing this are easily explained, by the
frigate's having touched at Algiers, in her pas-
sage from America, and being at anchor so near
to the shores both of Europe and Asia.

About this time, news arrived in Constanti-
nople of the expedition to Egypt, under General
Sir Ralph Ahercromhie ; and intelligence was

80 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP, received of the safe arrival of the British fleet,
V -y— ' with Our army, in the Bay of Marmorice. The
Capudan Pasha, on board of whose magnificent
ship, the Sultan Selim, we had been with our
ambassador, previous to the saiHng of the
Turkish squadron for Egypt, ordered a corvette
to be left for us to follow him; having heard
that the author's brother. Captain George Clarke,
of the Braakel, was with the fleet in Marmorice,
to whom he expressed a desire of being after-
wards introduced. Nothing could exceed the
liberality of the Turkish admiral upon this oc-
casion. He sent for the captain of the corvette,
and, in our presence, gave orders to have it
stored with all sorts of provisions, and even
with wines ; adding also, that knives, forks,
chairs, and other conveniences, which Turks do
not use, would be found on board.

Departure ^^^ sailcd iu this vcsscl ou thc sccoud of

irom Con-
stantinople. March ; and, saluting the Seraglio as we passed

with twenty-one guns, the shock broke all the
glass in our cabin windows. Our Turlcish crew,
quite ignorant of marine afl'airs, ran back at the
report of their own cannon; trusting entirely
to a few Greeks and some French prisoners, to
manaQ:e all the concerns of the vessel. We
were not sorry to get away from the unwhole-
some place in which we had lived, and to view

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 81

the mosques and minarets of Constantinople, chap.
disappearing in the mists of the Sea of Marmora, ■ /

as we steered with a fair wind for the Hellespont^

(1) "I quitted Constantinople at the end of autumn, 180G, for the
purpose of visiting the Troad a second time, and examining it with more
accuracy tlian in the spring of the year. The Greek vessel in which I
embarked was bound to Tricchiri, a little town on the coast of ITiessaly.
The Greek vessels are in general filled with great numbers of Greeks, all
of whom have a share, large or small, in the ship, and its merchandise.
The vast profits which the Greeks reaped about ten years past, when they
carried corn to the ports of France and Spain, from the Black Sea and
Greece, particularly Thessaly, and from Caramania, excited a spirit of
adventure and enterprise, which soon shewed itself in the building of
many hundred vessels, belonging chiefly to the two barren islands of
Spezzla and Hydra, situate on the eastern side of the Morca. Vessels
are to be seen navigated by Greeks, carrying twenty-two guns : one of
this size I met in the Archipelago, off Audros, in company with other
smaller ships ; all sailing before the wind, with large extended sails of
white cotton, forming a beautiful ajjpearance. The Greeks on board the
Triccliiriote vessel were not very numerous. My fellow conipauions were
three Turks : one was going to Euhoca ; another to a village near nier-
mopyla;; and the third was a Tahtar, who profited by the northerly wind
that was blowing, and was going to the Morea. At sun-set, the Greeks
sat on the deck, round their supper of olives, anchovies, and biscuits, with
wine ; and in the cabin, a lamp was lighted to a tutelar saint, who was to
give us favourable weatlier. The wind that bore us along was from the N. E. ;
to which, as well as the East, the name of the Levanter is given. This
vr'md is generally very strong ; and the epithet applied by Virgil, ' violen-
tior Eurus,' is strictly appropriate. After a little more than a day's sailing,
we found ourselves opposite to a village on the European coast of the Sea
pf Marmora called Peristasis. The distance from Constantinople we
computed to be about forty leagues. I was informed that a Greek church
at this place was dedicated to St. George. This explains the reason why
that part of the Propontis, which is now called the Bay and Strait of
Gallipoli, was formerly designated by the appellation of St. George's
Channel. At the distance of eighteen or twenty miles to the south of

Gallipoli,

82 FllOiM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP. Towards evening, the wind strengthening, the

« ,— ^ crew lowered all the sails, and lay to all night.

In the morning, having again hoisted them, we
fomid, at nine o'clock a.m. tliat we had left
Marmora, a high mountain, far behind us. The
Isle of Princes, from the position of the strata,
as they appeared throagh a telescope, v/liich
was the nearest view we had of the island,
seemed to consist wholly of limestone. We
wished much to have visited the ruins oiCyzicum,
but had not opportunity. The small isthmus,
near to which they are situate, is said to have
accumulated in consequence of the ruins of
two antient bridges, which formerly connected

Gallipoli, are the remains of a fort, Xoipiotx.a.ffrpa (Pigs-fort), which a
Turkish vessel, as it tacked near us, saluted; for here, it is said, the Turks
first landed, when they came under Soliman into Europe.

" The ship anchored off the castle of the Dardanelles, on the Asiatic
side, according to the custom enforced by the Turks on all ships, excepting
those of war. which pass southward. At this time, and ever since the
MamlCiks had shewn dispositions hostile to the Ottoman Government
established in Egypt, under Maliomcd AH, the actual viceroy, all ships
and vessels, particularly Greek, wlilch might be supposed to be the means
of conveying supplies of Circassians to the MamlCiks, to increase their
numbers, were strictly searched.

" The po])ulation of the town, Cltannlc kalcsi, on the Hellespont, where
I landed, consists of Mohammedans, Jews, and a few Greeks ; amounting,
in all, to about 3000. It derives its name from a manufactory of earthen-
ware ; dianak signifying a plate or dish. The houses are mean, and built
chiefly of wood. From this place I took a boat, and sailed down the
Hellespont, to Koum-kale (the Sand-castle), situate between the mouth
of the Simo'i.-) ar.d the Sigean pronioatory." Walpoles MS. Journai.

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 83

an island with the main land. Recently, above chap.

a thousand coins had been found on the site of '^ , — >

Parium in Mysia, and sold by the peasants to
the master of an English merchant vessel : Ave
saw the greater part of them ; they were much
injured, and of no remote date, being all of
copper, and chiefly of the age of the later Em-
perors. Between Marmora and the Dardanelles,
and nearer to the latter, on the European side,
appears a remarkable tumulus, on the top of a
hill near the shore. The place is called Hexamil;
and, according to the map of De Lisle, was
once the site of Lysimachia,

The entrance to the Canal of the Hellespont,
from the Sea of Marmora, although broader than
the Thracian Bosporus, has not the same degree
of grandeur. Its sides are more uniform, less
bold, and they are not so richly decorated.
The only picturesque appearance is presented
by the European and Asiatic castles, as the
straits become narrower. Before coming in
sight of these, the eye notices a few houses
and windmills, belonging to the present village
of Lamsaque which are all that remains of the
antient Lampsacus. The wine of the place no
longer retains its antient celebrity.

Having anchored about three miles above the ■^'"■''""

neUci.

84 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP, castles, we landed, and walked to the town of
the Dardanelles. In our way, we observed the
shafts of several pillars of granite; some of these
had been placed upright in the earth, as posts,
by means of which to fasten cables for vessels ;
others were dispersed and neglected. In the
recess of a small bay, before reaching the town,
is the best situation for viewino; the narrow
part of the strait, where Xerxes is believed to
have passed with his army; and here the
two castles have a very striking appearance.
Tournefort objects to the story of Leanders
enterprise, reasoning upon the supposed impos-
sibility of a man's swimming so great a distance
as that which separated Abydos from Sestos. The
servant of the Imperial Consul at the Dardanelles
performed this feat, more than once, in a much
wider part of the straits, passing from the
Asiatic side of the European castle ; whence,
after resting himself a few minutes, he swam
back again '.

When we arrived, we found all the shops
shut. The Turkish fleet had passed the day

(l) Lord Eyron, in company with Lieutenant Ekenhead of the
Salsette frigate, swam across the Hellespont, upon the third of May
1810. They were only an hour and five minutes in completing the
passage. See Lord Byron's own narrative of the event, and the
exquisite little poem he composed upon the occasion. Childe Harold's
Pi/grhmicfe, y. 17B. L>ond. 1812.

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 85

before ; and the greatest terror prevailed among chap.
the inhabitants, who upon these occasions are '

exposed to plunder from the promiscuous mul-
titude of barbarians, drained from the provinces
of Anatolia to man the fleet. It often happens
that these men have never seen the sea, until
they are sent on board. Whenever the fleet
comes to anchor, they are permitted to land,
and then they are guilty of the greatest dis-
orders. The Capudan Pasha himself told us
that it was in his power to bring them to
order, by hanging some ten, or a dozen, a
day; "but then,'' said he, ** how am I to spare
so many menf

The wine of the Dardanelles is sent to Con-
stantinople, to S7nyrna, to Aleppo, and even to
England.. It will keep to a great age, and, if
the vintage be favourable, is preferable to that of
Tenedos. Both sorts are of a red colour. That
of the Dardanelles, after it has been kept twenty
or thirty years, loses its colour, but not its
strength. It is made chiefly by Jeius, and called,
in Italian (the language spoken throughout the
Levant), F'ino della Legge ; because it is pre-
tended, that the Jews, by their law, are
prohibited the adulteration of wine. Its price,
when of a good quality, equals eight paras the
oke ; about two-pence a bottle.

86 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP. On the European side of the straits, precisely
^ on the spot where it is beheved Sestos was

situate, and where it is laid down by D'Anville,
are three Tumuli. Concerning these a silly
fable is related by the Turhs, which affirms that
they v/ere formed by the straw, the chaff, and
the corn, of a Dervish, winnowing his grain.
The largest is called Ses{ Tepe. Sest, in Turkish,
signifies an echo ; but there is no echo, either at
the tomb or near it ; whence it is not too much
to conclude that Sestus afforded the original
etymology of this name, and perhaps the site
of it may be thus ascertained. Near to this
tomb is a place called Ahhash, where there are
said to be Ruins, and where a Dervish resides,
who has frequently brought medals and other
antiquities, found there, to the Dardanelles.
Farther up the straits, towards the Sea of
Marmora, at about the distance of three English
miles from Akhash, and on the same side, are
the remains of a Mole, having the remarkable
appellation of Gaziler Eschielesy, the Pier or
Strand of the Conquerors ; whether in allusion to
the passage of the Getcv, who from Phrygia and
Mysia, crossing the Hellespont, first peopled
Thrace, Macedonia, and Greece; or to the Persic
invasion, m.any ages after ; or to the conquest
of \\\e, Turks themselves; cannot now be de-
termined. That this people have retained in

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. §7

their language the original interpretation of chap.
many antient appellations, may be proved by ■ ' >
various examples, in the names of rivers and
places.

Having procured at the Dardanelles proper
persons to attend us as guides, during our
intended expedition to the Plain of Troy, and a
four-oared boat to conduct us thither by day-
break on the following morning, vjq returned
on board the corvette. We informed the captain,
as well as the crew, that it would not be pos-
sible for us, consistently with the plan we had
in contemplation, to sail for the Mediterranean
in less than a fortnight. Our ambassador had
sent his cook on board, with money for the
army ; and had previously urged the impropriety
of delaying the vessel during her voyage :
therefore, as all seemed desirous to overtake
the Turkish fleet, which we were informed
had not passed Tenedos, we resolved to send
an express by land to Constantinople, to ensure
a passage, upon our return from Troas, in a
small merchant vessel, belonging to an English-
man of the name of Castle. This we had left
lading with stores for the troops destined to
Egypt. It had been, originally, nothing more
than a bomb-boat, captured by Sir Sidney Smith
from the French ; yet the desire of gratifying our

VOL. III. G

88 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP, curiosity with the sight of the highly classical
v .. V - ' territory then within our reach, subdued all our
fears of venturing across the Mediterranean in
this little bean-cod ; and we resolved to dismiss
the corvette^ with all the Capudan Pashas in-
tended liberality, as soon as day-light should
appear.

Visit to the In the morning, therefore, we took leave of
the crew, and landed again. Upon the shore
we were met by messengers from the Pasha of
the Dardanelles, who desired to see us. Being
conducted to his palace, and through an ante-
chamber filled with guards, v/e entered an
apartment in which we found him seated on a
very superb divan. He placed us opposite to
him; and the Russian Consul, being on his
knees, acted as our interpreter. The attendants
in the mean time supplied us with coffee, con-
serves, and rich pipes of jasmine. The Pasha
w^as dressed in a robe of green embroidered
satin. He told us he was going to Esky Stam-
houl (Alexandria Troas), and would take us
with him in his boat, in order to entertain us
there. Fearing the interruption this might
occasion, we begged to be excused : upon this
he added, that he had an estate in the recesses
of Mount Ida, and begged we would visit him
there. This we also declined, and afterv/ards

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 89

had reason to reorret that we had done so : for chap.

III.
his services would have materially assisted our ^ ■■^' >

researches in the country. We then had some

further conversation, in which he mentioned

the names of Englishmen whom he had seen ;

and expressed a wish to procure some English

pistols, for which he said he would give all the

antiquities in Troas. After this we retired.

The Pasha went on board his boat, and, as we

followed him in ours, the guns of the castle

fired a salute.

The day was most serene ; not a breath of 7°^*^.?

•^ ' down the

wind was stirring, nor was there a cloud to be Hellespont.
seen in the sky. No spectacle could be more
grand than the opening to the jEgean Sea.
The mountainous Island of Imhros, backed by
the loftier snow-clad summits of Samothrace,
extended before the Hellespont, towards the
north-west. Next, as we advanced, appeared
Tenedos upon the luest, and those small Isles
which form a groupe opposed to the Sigean
Promontory. Nothing, excepting the oars of
our boat, ruffled the still surface of the water :
no other sound was heard. The distant Islands
of the jEgean appeared as if placed upon the
surface of a vast mirror. In this manner we
passed the Rhostean Promontory upon our left,
and beheld, upon the sloping side of it, the

G 2

90 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP. Tumulus, considered, and with reason, as the

HI. '

v» - y .^ Tomb of Jljax. Coming opposite to a sandy-
bay, which Pliny, speaking of that tomb, ex-
phcitly mentions as the naval station of the
Greehs\ we beheld, at a distance, upon the
Sigean Promontory, those other Tumuli, which
have been called the Tombs of Achilles and
Patroclus. Upon a sand bank, advanced into
the Hellespont, and formed by the deposit of
the principal river here disembogued, which
for the present may be designated by its
modern appellation of Mender, appeared the
town of Koum-kale.

Appear- ^ vcrv singular appearance takes place at

ance caus- j o r i i

ed by the the mouth of this river : as if it refused to mix

Waters of

the Mender, with tlic broad and rapid current of the Helles-
pont, it exhibits an extensive circular line,
bounding its pale and yellow water : this line
is so strongly traced, and the contrast of colour
between the salt and the fresh water so strik-
ing, that at first we believed the difference to
originate in the shallowness of the current, at
the river's mouth, imperfectly concealing its

(1) How exactly does this position of the Partus Ach<E<yrum coincide
with the remark, made by Pliny in the following passage: " Ajace
ihi sepulto xxx stud, mtervallo a Sigeo, et ipso (sic) in statione classis
sucer Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. v. cap. 30. torn. I. p. 278. L. Bat. 1635.

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 91

sandy bottom; but, upon sounding, this was chap.
not found to be the case. An appearance so ■
remarkable, characterizing these waters, would
not escape, an allusion at least, in the writings
of a Poet who was lavish in the epithets he
bestowed upon the Scamander and the Hellespont.
It has been reserved for the learning and in-
genuity of Mr. IValpole, to shew that the whole
controversy, as far as it has been affected by
the expression nAATVS 'EAAHSnONTOI, may be
founded in misconstruction ; that instead of

* broad Hellespont,' the true reading should be

* salt Hellespont. It is used in this sense by
jithen^us : but Casaid'on, in his Commentary
upon the passage, after citing Hesychius and
Aristotle, who have given the same meaning to

(2) " It has been objected, that Homer would not have applied the
epithet vrXetru; to the Hellespont. Commentators have anticipated the
objection; and urged, that although the Hellespont, near Sestus and
Abydus, is not vXutvs, but only a mile in breadth, yet that in its opening
towards the JEgean, at the embouchure of the Scamander, it is broad.
Tiip) TO.; iK^oa; rod 'Sxccftd.v'^pou, are the words of the Venetian Scholiast.
See also the Lexicon of Apollonius ; and Eustathius, p. 4',i'2. But the
objection, if it be one, should have been answered at once, by saying
that aXxTvs 'EkX'/Kr-rovTo; is the ' salt Hellespont.^ Tlkarlsy in this sense,
is used three times by Aristotle, in Metereol. lib. ii. ; and Hesychius gives
the same meaning. It may be observed, that Damm and Stephanas
have not mentioned it in their Dictionaries."

Walpole's MS. Journal.

92 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP. TXecTug, observes that it is not counte-
III.

' -y,- ■■ » nanced by Eustathius, nor by any of the old
scholiasts '.

Coming opposite to the bay, which has been
considered as the naval station used by the
Greeks during the war of Troy, and which is
situate on the eastern side of the embouchure
of the Mender, the eye of the spectator is
attracted by an object predominating over every
other, and admirably adapted, by the singu-
larity of its form, as well as by the peculiarity
of its situation, to overlook that station, to-
gether with the whole of the low coast near the
mouth of the river. This object is a conical
mound, rising upon a line of elevated territory,
behind the bay and the mouth of the river. It
has therefore been pointed out as the Tomb of
j^syetes, and it is now called Ucljek Tepe'^. If we
had never heard or read a single syllable con-
cerning the war of Troy, or the works of
Homer J it would have been impossible not to

(1) nXaru xiita^ est aqua salsa, Atlieriteus, 'iiaa<TtXXit Ss xai yXvKU
vSu^ «« ^XxtU;. (Vid. Animad Casaub. in lib.ii. cap. iv. Athen. Deipn.)
Then he quotes Hcsychius and Aristotle, (Meteorol. lib. ii.) and adds,
" Fortasse usus hie vocis crXariij ab eorum interpretatione ortus est qui
apud Ilomerum -rXarvv 'EXXw-jroirot exponebant salsum : quos sequitur
hie Athena>us : non ita Eustathius, nee grammaticorura cohorg tola."

(2) See the Vignelle to this Chapter.

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 93

notice the remarkable appearance presented by
this Tumulus, so peculiarly placed as a post of
observation commanding all approach to the
harbour and the river ^ We afterwards ob-
served that it afforded a survey of all the

(3) " The difficulty of disposing exactly the Grecian camp is very
great. This is owing to the changes on the coast, and the accretion of
soil mentioned by Strabo, which, however, the stream of the Hellespont
will prevent being augmented. If, as Herodotus asserts, the country
about Troy was once a bay of the sea, (lib. ii. c. ]0.) the difficulties of
determining the precise extent and form of coast are considerable. In
examining the country at the embouchure of the Meander, where the soil
has increased to the distance of six miles since the days of Strabo, I was
struck with the difficulty of determining the direction of the coast as it
was to be seen in the days of Darius, and Alexander ; in the time of
Strabo, and Pliny; and the Emperor Manuel, who encamped there in
866. Yet this difficulty does not lead me to doubt the events that took
place there and at Miletus, any more than I should doubt the encamp-
ment of the Greeks at Troy, because I could not arrange it in agreement
with the present face of the coast.

" The situation of the Grecian camp by a marsh, has been objected
to. But what is the fact? Homer says, the illness and disease, which
destroyed the Greeks, were inflicted by Apollo (the Sun). They were,
without doubt, the same with the putrid exhalations which now arise from
marshes on each side of the river ; and which bring with them fevers to
the present inhabitants of the coast, when the N. N. E, wind blows in
Summer, and the South in the beginning of autumn.

" It is to be regretted, tliat the Empress Eudocia is so concise in what
she says about Troy, and the plain which she visited in the eleventh
century. She says, ' the foundation stones of the city are not leftj' but,
as she adds, in an expression from the Gospels, h iupxxvTa fii/^aprvptixtv,
she was able probably to give some particulars which would have been
now interesting. See Villoison Anec. Grecc. torn. I."

Wulpole's MFl. Jou7-nal.

94 FROM CONSTANTINOPLE

CHAP. Trojan Plain; and that, from whatsoever spot

it was regarded, this cone, as a beacon, was
the most conspicuous object in the view.

After these few observations, concluding this
short chapter, the Reader is perhaps better
prepared for the inquiry which may now be
introduced. Notwithstanding the numerous
remarks which have appeared upon the subject,
it is our wish to assure him, that our local
knowledge of the country is still very imper-
fect ; that the survey carried on by travellers
has always, unfortunately, been confined to the
western side of the river; that our researches
will add but little to his stock of information ;
but that, while much remains to be done, it is
something for him to be informed, there still
exists sufficient evidence of Homers frequent
allusion to this particular territory, to remove,
from the mind of any friend to truth, all doubt
upon the subject.

Koumkaii. j^^ landed at Koum-kale, literally signifying
Sand-castle; and hired horses for our expedition.
The neck of land on which this place has been
built is usually considered of recent formation,
and it is true that no soil has been yet accu-
mulated. The castle stands, as its name im-
pHes, upon a foundation of sand ; but it may

SKETCH OF THE SIMOISIAN PLAIN,

shewing the Situation of the Tlirosmos arui of New Uiunn.

■-V^-

vTvtO

Tombof/lu.'!? ^y y^

*7:iml/s monli
by S/rcr&o

h((^lMr ,jj^Tnmh on i/ic sli/»e of

vi!?,if^^^ ^^ thc/UycanXca

X-.V-yr-

CHAP. lY.

THE PLAIN OF TROY.

General Observations on the Topography of Grecian
Cities — Evidence of the Trojan War, independent of
Homer — Identity of the Plain — Importance of the Text
ofStrabo — Plan of the Author's Expedition — Rivei-
Mender — Tomb of Ajax — Cement used in the
AjiANTEUM — Plants — Halil Elly — Inscription —
Thymhreck — Tchiblack — Remarkable Ruins — Probable
Site of Pagus Iliensium — and of Callicolone —
Route from the Beyan Mezaley — Antient Sepulchre,

and

TO THE PLAIN OF TROY. 95

be noticed, that the rapidity with which the ^!l^^-
waters of the Hellespont pass these Straits must
prevent any considerable deposit from the river
near to its mouth.

PLAIN OF TROY. 97

and Natural Mound — Opinion concerning Simois —
Prevalent Errors with regard to Scamander — Ruins hy
the Callifat Osmack — Inscriptions — Village of
Callifat — Medals — Remains of New Ilium.

A. PECULIAR circumstance characterized the chap.

1 V ,

topography of the cities of Antient Greece; and ' ^ '

this perhaps has not been considered so general phy of
as it really was. Every metropolis possessed citiS!"
its CITADEL and its plain; the Citadel as a
place of refuge during war; the Plain as a
source of agriculture in peace. To this there
existed some exceptions ; as in the instance of
. Delphi, whose celebrity originated in secondary
causes ; but the exceptions were few, and may
therefore be omitted. In the provinces of
Greece, the appearance caused by a plain, flat
as the surface of the ocean, and surrounded by
mountains, or having lofty rocks in its centre or
sides, is at this day the general indication of
Ruins which denote the locality of some antient
capital. Many of those plains border the sea,
and seem to have been formed by the retiring
of its waters. Cities so situate were the
most antient : Argos, Sicyon, and Corinth, are
of the number. The vicinity of fertile plains to
the coast offered settlements to the earliest
colonies, before the interior of the country
became known. As population increased, or

98 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, the first settlers were driven inward by new
> adventurers, cities more mediterranean were
established; but all of them possessed their
respective plains. The physical phsenomena
of Greece, differing from those of any other
country, present a series of beautiful plains,
successively surrounded by mountains of lime-
stone ; resembling', although upon a larger
scale, and rarely accompanied by volcanic
products, the craters of the Phlegrcean Fields.
Everywhere their level surfaces seem to have
been deposited by water, gradually retired or
evaporated ; they consist, for the most part, of
the richest soil, and their produce is yet pro-
verbially abundant.

In this manner stood the cities of jirgos,
Sicyon, Corinth, Megara, Eleusis, Athens, Thehes,
jimphissa, Orchomenos, Chceronea, Lehadea, La-
rissa, Fella, and many other. Pursuing the
inquiry over all the countries bordering the
jEgean, we find every spacious plain accom-
panied by the rem.ains of some city, whose
celebrity was proportioned either to the fertility
of its territory, or to the advantages of its
maritime position. Such, according to Homer,
were the circumstances of association which
characterized that district of Asia Minor, where
Troy was situate.

PLAIN OF TROY. 99

With these facts in contemplation, it is chap.
unreasonable to suppose, that a plain, boasting

every advantage that Nature could afford, f/^g"^^^.
would offer an extraordinary exception to cus- -^'"J ^^^

-' i indepen-

toms so o-eneral amoner antient nations ; that it '^*^"* «*"
should have remained untenanted and desolate ;
and that no adventurers should have occupied
its fertile soil. It is still more difficult to
believe, when the monuments of a numerous
people, and the ruins of many cities, (all having
reference, by indisputable record, to one more
antient, as their oncigna parens,) have been found
in such a plain, that the compositions of any
Bard, however celebrated, should have afforded
the sole foundation of a belief that such a people
and city did really exist. Among the gem.s, the
vaseSj the marbles, and the medals, found in
other countries, representing subjects connected
with the Trojan tvar, yet destitute of any
reference to the works of Homer, we meet with
documents proving the existence of traditions
independent of his writings ' ; and in these we

(1) " That the Antieiits differed as to tbe circumstances of the
Trojan war, is well known ; and tliat some variations, even in the
accounts of those who were actors in that scene, left the Poet at
liberty to adopt or reject facts, as it best suited his purpose, is highly

probable Eurijiides chose a subject fur one of his Plays,

which supposes that Helun never was at Troy ; yet we cannot

suppose that he would have deserted Homer without any authority.

As the first Poets differed with regard to the Trojan war,

so their brother Artists adopted variations Polygnotus did not

always follow Homer." Wood's Essay on Homer, pp. 183, 184.

100 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, have evidence of the truth of the war, v^^hich
IV. . , .

v— V -^ cannot be imputed to his invention'. With

regard to other antiquities where coincidence
may be discerned between the representation
of the Artist and the circumstances of the
Poem, it may also be urged, that they could
not all have originated in a single fiction, what-
soever might have been the degree of popularity
which that fiction had obtained. Every sculp-
tured onyx, and every pictured patera, found
in sepulchres of most remote antiquity and in
distant parts of all the Isles and Continents of
Greece, cannot owe the subjects they represent
to the writings of an individual. This were to
contradict all our knowledge of antient history
and of mankind. It is more rational to con-
clude, that both the Artist and the Poet bor-
rowed the incidents they pourtray from the
traditions of their country ; that even the Bard
himself found, in the remains of former ages,
many of the subjects afterwards introduced by
him among his writings. This seems to be evident
from his description of the Shield of jichilles ;
and, if it should be remarked, that works of
art cannot be considered as having afforded

(0 When the Persians, laying claim to all Asia, alleged, as the
occasion of their emnity to the Greeks, the hostile invasion of Priam,
and the destruction of Troy by Agamemnon, it cannot be said they
borrowed the charge from the Poems of Homer. P id. Herodot. lib. i.

PLAIN OF TROY. 101

representations of this nature in the early period chap.
to which allusion is made, it would be expe-
dient to dwell upon this particular part of
Homers Poem, and, from the minuteness of
the detail, derive, not only internal evidence of
an exemplar whence the imagery was derived,
but also of the perfection attained by the arts
of Greece in the period when the description
was given-. Later poets, particularly Firgil
and Ovid, evidently borrowed the machinery of
their poems from specimens of antient art which
even their commentators are allowed to con-
template^; and in the practice existing at this
day among itinerant bards of Italy, who recite
long poems upon the antiquities of the country,
we may observ^e customs of which Homer
himself afforded the prototype'. These

(2) See also the remarkable description of Nestor's Cup^ in th«
eleventh book of the Iliad i and the observations relating to it, in the
Work by the author's Grandfather upon Roman and Saxon Coins.
Cou'per acknowledged himself indebted to the learning and ingenuity
of the author's Ancestor for the new version introduced by him of a
long-mistaken passage in Homer's description of that cup.

(3) Witness the discovery of the " cajmt acris equi" at the building
of Carthage, and the death of Laocoon, as described by Virgil; as
well as the Metamorphoses of Ovid, whose archetypes are still discer-
nible upon the gems of Greece,

(4) These men, called improvisatoii, are seen in the public streets
of cities in Italy. A crowd collects around them, when they begin to
recite a long poem upon a cameo or an intaglio put into their hands.
The author saw one, in the principal square at Milan, who thus
descanted for au hour upon the loves of Cupid and Psyche.

102 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, observations are applicable only to the qnes-
^.„.^.J._^ tion of the war of Troy, so far as the truth
of the story is implicated. The identity of the
place where that war was carried 0n, so many
ages ago, involves argument which can be sup-
ported only by practical observation, and the
evidence of our senses. It will be separately
and distinctly determined, either by the agree-
ment of natural pheenomena with the locality
assigned them by Homer, or of existing artificial
monuments with the manners of the people
whose history has been by him illustrated. To
this part of the inquiry the attention of the
Reader is therefore now particularly requested.

Tdcniityof jj- geems hardly to admit of doubt, that the

the riaiii. ^

Plain of Anatolia, watered by the Mender, and
backed by a mountainous ridge, of which
Kazdaghy is the summit, offers the identical
territory alluded to by the Poet. The long
controversy, excited by Mr. Bryants publica-
tion, and since so vehemently agitated, would
probably never have existed, had it not been
for the erroneous maps of the country, which,
even to this hour, disgrace our geographical
knowledge of that part of Asia.

According to Homers description of the Trojan
territory, it combined certain prominent and

PLAIN OF TROY. 103

remarkable features, not likely to be affected
by any lapse of time. Of this nature was the
Hellespont; the Island of Tenedos ; the Plain
itself; the River by whose inundations it was
occasionally overflowed ; and the Mountain
whence that river issued. If any one of these
be found retaining its original appellation, and
all other circumstances of association charac-
terize its vicinity, our knowledge of the country
is placed beyond dispute. But the Island of
Tenedos, corresponding in all respects with the
position assigned to it by Homer, still retains its
antient name unaltered ; and the Inscriptions,
found upon the Dardanelles, prove those straits
to have been the Hellespont. The discovery of
Ruins, which seem to have been those of the
Ilium of Straho, may serve not only to guide
us in our search after objects necessary to iden-
tify the locality alluded to by Homer, but perhaps
to illustrate, in a certain degree, even the
position of Troy itself; concerning whose
situation, no satisfactory evidence has yet
resulted from any modern investis^ation. That ^
it was not altogether unknown in the time of tanccofthe

• • n a Text of

Augustus, is proved by the writings of Straho, sirau>.
who, more than once, expressly assigns to the
antient city the place then occupied by the
Fillage of the Iliensians. The text of this author
may now be considered as affording a safer clue

IV,

104 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, ill reconciling the description of Troas given by
Homer with the existing realities of the country,
than the poems of the Bard himself; because
the comment afforded by Straho combines all
the advantages of observation made eighteen
centuries ago, both with regard to the country
and the reference borne to its antiquities, by
documents, written in a language which may
be considered as his own. The traditions of
the country concerning the Trojan war were not
then more remote from their origin, than are at
this hour the oral records of England with
regard to its first invasion by the Danes or
Normans. Comparing the site of the place
called H'mm in his time, with that of antient
Troy, Straho says, {Ilus) " did not build the
city luhere it now is, but nearly tkirty stadia fartlter
eastward, towards Ida and Dardania, where
the Iliensian Village is now situated If, there-
fore, we can ascertain precisely the locality of
the Ilium of Slraho, by the discovery of Ruins
which bear evidence of their being the remains
of that city, a beacon will be established,
whence, with his bearings and distances, we
may search with reasonable expectation of being
able to point out some even of the artificial
monuments belonging to the Plain. But further,
if, with reference to the situation of Troy itself,
having pursued the clue thus afforded, we find

PLAIN OF TROY. 105

any thing to indicate the site of the Village,
where it was believed, in the time of Strabo,
ahd where he maintains, that antient Ilium
stood, we cannot be very far from the truth.

Previously, however, to the introduction of Plan of the

J ' ' ^ Author a

observations relating rather to the conclusion of Expedition.
our examination of the country, the Reader may
feel his curiosity gratified by an account of our
expedition, from the moment when we landed
at Koum-kale. We had resolved to penetrate
those recesses of the mountains, whence the
principal river derives its origin ; a region then
unexplored by any traveller: and afterwards,
by ascending Kazdaghy, the loftiest ridge of
the whole chain, at that time covered with
snow, to ascertain, from the appearance of the
Plain, and from the objects connected with it,
whether its summit might be deemed the Gar-
garus of Homer ; described as being upon the
left of the army of Xerxes, during its march
from Antandros to Ahjdos\ But as the Thym-
hrius, a river still retaining its antient name, in
the appellation Thymhreck, and which here
disembogues itself near the embouchure of the
Mender, has been confounded by Dr. Chandler
with the SiMois of Homer, we determined first

(l) Herodot. lib. vii.
VOL. III. H

106 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, upon an excursion, along its banks, to the Ruins
> situate at a place now called Hal'il Elly;
and to Thymhreck Keuy, or the Village of.
Thymhra.

We crossed the Mender by a wooden bridge,
immediately after leaving Koum-kale ; and as-
certained its breadth, in that part, to equal
one hundred and thirty yards. We then entered
an immense plain, in which some Turks were
engaged hunting wild boars. Peasants were
also employed in ploughing a deep and rich soil
of vegetable earth. Proceeding towards the
east, and round the bay distinctly pointed out
by Straho\ as the harbour where the Grecian
Tomb of fleet was stationed, we arrived at the Sepulchre
of Ajax, upon the antient Rhoetean Promontory.
Concerning this tumulus there is every reason to
believe our information to be correct. If we
had only the text of Straho for our guidance,
there would be little uncertainty ; and, by the
evidence afforded in a view of the monument
itself, we have the best comment upon his
accuracy. It is one of the most interesting
objects to which the attention of the literary
traveller can possibly be directed. Instead of

(1) bi^ab. Geogr. lib. xvii. p. 859. Ed. Ox.

PLAIN OF TROY. 107

the simple Stl-lc, usually employed to decorate chap.
the summit of the most antient sepulchral
mounds, all Writers, who have mentioned the
Tomb of Ajax, relate, that it was surmounted
by a Shrine, in which a statue of the Hero was
preserved-. Religious regard for this hallowed'
spot continued through so many ages, that even'
to the time in which Christianity decreed the
destruction of the Pagan idols, the sanctity of
the A'iANTEUM was maintained and venerated^
Such importance was annexed to the inviola--
bility of the monument, that after Antony had'
carried into Egypt the consecrated image, it was
again recovered by Augustus, and restored to it&
pristine shrine^. These facts may possibly serve
to account for the present appearance of the
Tomb, upon whose summit the shrine itself,
concealed from external view only by a slight
coverino; of earth, remains unto this hour.
Pliny mentions the situation of the Tomb as
being in the very station of the Grecian fleet;

(2) Diodorus Siculus, descrihin;^ the visit paid by /llcxander ike
Great to the Tomh of Achilles , says be anointed the St^li with perfumes,
and ran naked round it with his companions. At the Tomh of /Jj'u.r
he performed riYf,^ and made offerings; hut no mention occurs of the
Stele. Diodor. Sir. lib. xvii.

(.3) See the proofs adduced, in a regular series, by Chandhr, in bis
History of Ilium. Loud. ^^02.

(4) Sfrab. Geoer. lib. xvii. p. 858. Ed. Or.

n 2

PLAIN OF TROY.

and, by giving its exact distance from Sigeum,
not only adds to our conviction of its identity,
but marks at the same time, most decisively,
the position of the Portus jichcEorum'. In all
that remains of former ages, there are few
objects more powerfully calculated to affect the
mind by local enthusiasm than this most inr
teresting Tomb. It is impossible to view its
sublime and simple form, without reflecting
upon the veneration in which it was so long
held; without picturing to the imagination a
successive series of mariners, of Kings and
Heroes, who from the Hellespont, or by the
shores of Troas and Chersonesus, or upon the
Sepulchre itself, poured forth the tribute of their
homage; and finally, without representing to
the mind the feelings of a native, or of a
traveller, in those times, who, after viewing
the existing monument, and witnessing the
instances of public and of private regard so
constantly bestowed upon it, should have been
told that the age was to arrive when the
existence of Troy itself, and of the mighty
dead entombed upon its Plain, would be consi-
dered as having no foundation in truth.

(!) " Fuit et Aeantium, a Rkodiis condihim in altera cornu {Rfutfn)
/Ijace ibi scpulto, xxx. sladiorum intervallo tt Sigeo, et ijisa in staHone
classis sueE." Sic. leg. Casauh. in Plln. lib. v. c. 30.

PLAIN OF TROY. ' 109

The present appearance of the Shrine does chap.
not seem to indicate a higher degree of antiquity ', ^. /
than the age of the Romans. Some have
beheved, from the circumstance of its disclosure,
that the Tomb itself was opened ; mistaking the
shrine for a vault, although its situation near
the summit might have controverted the opinion.
It was perhaps constructed when Augustus
restored the image which Antony had taken from
the AiANTEUM. A cement was certainly em- Cement

used in the

ployed in the work ; and the remains of it -4Va«/e«m.
to this day offer an opportunity of confuting a
very prevailing error concerning the buildings of
the Antients. The Greeks erected many of their
most stupendous edifices without cementation ;
hence it has been supposed that the appearance
of mortar in any building is a proof against its
antiquity. This notion is however set aside at
once, by reference to the Pyramids of Egypt; for
in these structures mortar was undoubtedly
used\

The view here afforded of the Hellespont and
of the Plain of Troy is remarkably striking.
Several plants, during the season of our visit'.

(2) The author brought specimens, from the spot, of the wortai
u^ed in building the greater Pyramid,

(3) March 3d.

1 i(J PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, were blooming upon the soil. Upon the Tomb
,- ' itself we noticed the silvery Mezereon, the Poppy,
the beardless Hypecoum, and the Field Star of
,Betlilehem\

Ham Eihj. From the Aianieuni we passed over a healthy
.country to Hald Elly, a village near the Thym-
hrius, in whose vicinity we had been instructed
to seek for the remains of a Temple once sacred
to the Thymhrean j4pollo. The ruins were con-
spicuous enough, and they seemed to be rather
the remains of ten temples than of one^. The
earth to a very considerable extent was covered
by subverted and broken columns of marble and
of granite, and every order of architecture was
visible in their remains. Doric, Ionic, and
Corinthian capitals lay dispersed in all directions,
and some of these were of great beauty. We
observed a bas-relief representing a person on
horseback pursued by a winged figure ; also a
beautiful representation, sculptured after the
same manner, of Ceres in her car drawn by two

(1) Daphne urge idea. Anemone coronaria, Hi/pccoum imberle, Orni-
tkogalum arvense.

(2) Our artist, Monsieur Preaux, as well as another of our com-
pany, Don Tda Lusieri, of Naples, then employed in making drawings
for the British Ambassador, although both accustomed to the view of
architectural remains, declared, they could reconcile the Ruins at
HaUl Elhj to no account yet given of the country, antieut or modern.

IV.

*^ — >r-
Inscrip-
tions.

PLAIN OF TROY. 1 1 1

i-caly serpents. Of three Inscriptions which we ghap.
copied among these Ruins, the first was en-
graven upon the shaft of a marble pillar. This
we removed, and brought to England. It is
now in the Vestibule of the Public Library at
Cambridge; and it commemorates the public
services of a Phrontistes of Drusus Ccesar'. The
names of persons belonging to the family of
Germanicus occur frequently among the Inscrip-
tions found in and near Troas. Drums, the
son of Germanicus, was himself appointed to
a government in the district. The second
Inscription has been once before printed, but
most erroneously: it will therefore now be
offered to the Public, in a more accurate form*.
Whatsoever tends to illustrate the origin of the
Ruins in which it was discovered, will be con-
sidered valuable ; although, after all, we remain
in a state of the greatest uncertainty with
regard to the city alluded to in either of these
documents. Possibly it may have been Scaman-
dria ; but in the multitude of cities belonging to
Troas, a mere conjecture, without any positive
evidence, is only less pardonable than silence.

(3) This Inscription has been ah-eady published in the account given
of the Greek Marbles at Cambridge. See p. 43. No. XXI. of that
Work.

(-^ ) It was also since copied by Mr. Watpole, from whose copy it is
here given, accompanied by his Notes. See the following page.

112 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP. This Inscription sets forth that the tribe Attalis
> commemorated Sextus Julius Festus, a magistrate

of the city, and praefect of the Flavian cohort,
who had been Gymnasiarch, and had given
magnificently and largely, to the senators and
to all citizens, oil and ointment for some public
festival,

HATTAAIS <|)YAH

ZEETONIOYAION<l>.

.TONKOZMONTHZn

OAenzinAPxoNznEiPHz;

4^AABIANHZrYMNAZIAP
XHZANTAAAMnPnZKAKH
AOTEIMnZKAinPilTON
TnNAnAIHNOZKAl
MEXPINYNMONONEAAI
OMETPHZANTATOYZ
TEBOYAEYTAZKAinO
AEITAZRANTAZKAIAA
liliS'ANTAEKAOYTHPHN
AH ME(

Notes on the Upper Inscription.
Line 5. The word Flaiian shews the inscription to he of the time of

yespasian or Domitian.
I 8. In an Itiscription found at Delphi we have the same expression,
" Primum inter eos qui unquam fuerunt." Murat. Inscript.
632. 2.
I 13. " Jntelligi iXt/tptiv debere de publico quodam festo quo cites
laute exeipiehantur, quibus in occasionihus notum est pretiosn

uuguenta

PLAIN OF TROY. 113

The third Inscription, and perhaps the most chap.
important, has these remarkable words i ^- -y .-^^

Ol I A I El C
TONHATPIONOEON

Al N EI AN

**THE ILIEANS TO THEIR COUNTRY'S GOD iENEA^."

If this had been found by a late respectable
and learned author', it might have confirmed
him in the notion that the Thijmbrius was in
fact the Simo'is^ as he believed; and perhaps
have suggested, in the present name of the
place, Halil Hi, (or, as we have written it,
Haiti Elly, to conform to the mode of pro-
nunciation,) an etymology^ from lAION.

From the Ruins at Halil Elly we proceeded
through a delightful valley, full of vineyards,
and almond-trees in full bloom, intending to
pass the night at the village of Thymbreck. We

unguenta vulgo adhiberi." (Misc. Obs. 1733.) The portion

of oil generally given to each man was called mensa olearia.

puis, in voce.

{]) The Author of the History of Ilium, &c. &c.

(2) £%, in the language of the country, signifies a District ; so

that the name of this place admits a literal interpretatiyi, signifying

*' T/te District of Halil;" which maybe further interpreted, " The

District of the San," from one of the names of jipolloy AIL or AE.\I02.

\ 14 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, found no antiquities, nor did we hear of any in
' the neighbourhood. The next day returning
towards Halil Elly, we left it upon our right,
and crossed the Thymhrius by a ford. In
summer this river becomes almost dry; but
during winter it often presents a powerful
torrent, carrying all before it. Not one of the
maps, or of the works yet published upon
Troas, has informed us of its termination:
according to some, it empties itself into the
Mender near to its embouchure ; others describe
it as forming a junction near Tchiblack; a
circumstance of considerable importance ; for if
this last position be true, the ruins at Tchiblack
may be those of the Temple of the TnYMBRiEAN
Apollo. Straho expressly states the situation
of the temple to be near the place where the
Thymhrius discharges i^tself into the Scaman-
der'. After we had passed the ford, we
ascended a ridge of hills, and found the remains
of a very antient paved-way. We then came to

Tckibiacic. the towu or rather villasfe of Tchiblack, where we
noticed very considerable remains of antient
sculpture, but in such a state of disorder and
ruin, that no precise description of them can be
given. The most remarkable are upon the top

(1) Sirab. Gcosv. lib. xiii. p. 8Gl. ed. Ox.

PLAIN OF TROY. 115

of a hill called Beyan Mezaley, near the town, in <^hap.
the midst of a beautiful grove of oak trees, ^ -^-' ,'
towards the village of Callifat. Here the Ruins ^^^r^
of a Doric Temple of white marble lay heaped
in the most striking manner, mixed with broken
Slela', Cippiy Sarcophagi, Cornices and Capitals of
very enormous size, entablatures, and pillars. All
of these have reference to some peculiar sanctity
by which this hill was antiently characterized.
It is of a conical form, and stands above the
village of Tchihlach, seeming to be as large as
the Castle Hill at Cambridge. The first inquiry
that suggests itself, in a view of this extraor-
dinary scene, naturally involves the original
cause of the veneration in which the place was
antientlv held. Does it denote the site of Pi-obai.ie

■^ ... Site of

Pagus Iliensium, whose inhabitants believed Pagus
that their village stood on the site of Antient
Troy^f This place was distant thirty stadia^
from the New Ilium of Strabo ; and the distance
corresponds with the relative situation of this
Hill and Palaio-Callifat, or Old Callifat, where
Neiv Ilium stood ; as will hereafter appear. Or
may it be considered as the eminence ^ called by

(2) Ibid.

(3) Three English miles and six furlongs.

llf, PLAIN OF TROY.

Straho the beautiful Colone, five stadia ' in cir-
cumference, near to which Simois flowed ; and
consequently Tchibhck, as the Pagus Uiensium ?
The Callicolojie was rather more than a mile
distant* from the F'illage of the Ilieans, and stood
above it; exactly as this hill is situate with
regard to Tchiblack^.

It will now be curious to observe, whether
an Inscription we discovered here does not
connect itself with these inquiries. It was
found upon the fluted marble shaft of a Doric
pillar, two feet in diameter; so constructed,
as to contain a Cippus, or inscribed slab,
upon one side of it*; exhibiting the following
characters :

(1) Rather more than half a mile.

(2) Ten stadia,

(3) It is a feature of Nature so remarkable, and «o artificially
characterized at this hour, that future travellers will do well to give
it due attention. In our present state of ignorance concerning TroaSy
we must proceed with diffidence and caution; nothing has been
decided concerning the side of the Plain on which this hill stands, and
where all the objects most worthy of attention seem to be concen-
tiated. The author is convinced, that when the country shall have
he&a properly examined on the north-eastern side of the Mender ^
instead of the south-western, many of the difficulties which now impede
a reconciliation of Homer's Poems with the geography of the count»y
will be done away. This has not yet been attempted.

(4) The Cippus, or inscribed part of the pillar, was two feet eleven
inches long, and two feet four inches wide.

PLAIN OF TROY. ' ' H/

TIBJiPiniKAAYAiniKAIZAPI chap.

rEPMANIKniKAIIOYAiArXEBA . . ^J- . '

ZTHIArPinnEINHKAITO:ZT>K
NOIZAYTONKAITHZYI . .
KAITHIAOHNATHI lAIAd
lAHMn^TIBEPIOZKAl
. <t>ANOYZYIOZ4>IAOKAfr.APKA
IHTYNHAYTOYKAAYA . . .

INOZOYrATHPHAPMEN

THNZTOANKAITAENAYTHiriA

NTAKATAZKEYAZANTrIXE

KTI2NIAII2NANEOHKAN

Tbis Inscription records the consecration of a
STOA, and all things belonging to it, to Tiberius
Claudius Ccesar Germanicusy the emperor, and to
Julia Augusta Agrippina, his wife, and their
children, and to Minerva of Ilium. The reason
why the Emperor Claudius and his children were
honoured by the Ilienses, is given by Sueto-
>'ius and by Tacitus*. Eckhel mentions a fane
consecrated to the Iliean Minerva, as having
existed in the Pagus Iliensium, which Alexander
adorned after his victory at Granicus^. Arrian
states merely the offerings to Minerva of Ilium,

(o) " Iliensibus Imperator Claudius tributa in perpetuum reraisit,
oratore Nerone Caesare." EckJtel, Doctrma Num. Vet. vol. II. p. 483.
KiiHlob. 1794.

(G) Eckhel. ibid.

J 18 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, makinof no mention of the fane; but Strabo,

IV. ° "^

v_-v > who expressly alludes to the temple, places it

in the Iliensian city'. But whence originated
the sanctity of this remarkable spot, still shaded
by a grove of venerable oaks, beneath whose
branches a multitude of votive offerings yet
entirely cover the summit of the hill? An
inscription commemorating the pious tribute of
a people in erecting a portico to the family of
Claudius Ccesar and to the Iliean Minerva, can
only be referred to the inhabitants of that
district of Troas who were styled Ilienses. It
has been shewn that Claudius, after the example
of Alexander"^, had perpetually exempted them
from the payment of any tribute. In their
district stood the Pagus Iliensium, with the (Cal-
licolone) beautiful hill; and nearly thirty stadia^
farther towards the ivest, reversing the order of
the bearing given by Strabo'*, the Iliensium
'Civitas. If therefore this hill, so preeminently

Caiiicoione. entitled to the appellation of Callicolone, from
the regularity of its form, and the groves by
which it seems for ages to have been adorned.

(1) T^v oi ruv 'lX/£«u> voXiv r^v vuv. Slruh, Geogr. .ib. xiii. p. S55.
cd. Or.

(2) Arrian. Expedit. lib. i.

(3) Three miles and three quarters.

(4) Strah, Geosrr. lib. xiii.

PLAIN OF TROY. 119

be further considered, on account of its anti-
quities, as an indication of the former vicinity
of the Iliensian tillage, it should follow, that
observing a weshvard course, the distance of
three miles and three quarters, or nearly so,
would terminate in the site of the Iliensian City ;
and any discovery ascertaining either of these
places would infallibly identify the position of the
other. This line of direction we observed in our
route, advancing by a cross road into the Plain.

There were other Inscriptions, commemorating
the good offices of Roman Emperors : but these
were so much mutilated, that no decisive infor-
mation could be obtained from them. Upon
one we read :

HAAEEANAPIZ1>YAH
^iEHTONIOYAlO . . .
N ATO N KOS M O N T H 'E

n o A Enz En A pxo n 2: n ei

PHZAABIANH^:

" THE ALEXANDRIAN TRIBE HONOUR SEXTUS JULIUS,

THE MAGISTRATE OF THE CITY, PREFECT OF

THE FLAVIAN COHORT," &c.

Another, inscribed upon the cover of a large
marble Soros, mentioned a portico, and the daugh-
ter of some person for whom both the ITOA and
the I0P02 had been constructed.

120

PLAIN OF TROY.

As we journeyed from this place, we founds
in a com field below the hill, a large mass of
inscribed marble; but owing to the manner in
which the stone was concealed by the soil, as
well as the illegibility of the inscription, we
could only discern the following characters,
in which the name of Julim again occurs :

lOYAlOY

APXON

KOtMON

•Intient

Sepulchre,

and

sustaining what was before advanced concern-
ing the prevalence of names belonging to the
family of Germanicus, or of persons who flou-
rished about his time. Upon a medal of Claudius,
described by Faillant\ belonging to Coty^ium, a
city of Pkrygia, bordering upon TROAs^ we read
the words EHI lOYAlOY YIOY KOTIAEHN.
We proceeded hence towards the Plain :
and no sooner reached it, than a Tumulus

(1) Numism. Imperat. August, et Cses. p. 13. Par. 1698.

(3) See the observation of Mentelle, (Enci/clop. Method. Geogr,
Ancienne. Par. 1787.) who thus places it, on the authority of Pliny.
This position of the city does not however appear to be warranted by
any explicit declaration of that author. Pliny's words are : " Septen-
trionali sui parte Galatio" conterminn, Mrridinna Lycaonia, Pisidice,
Mygdoniceque, ab oriente Cappadociam. attingit. Oppida ibi celehfrrima ,
jprteter jam dicta, Ancyra, Andria, Celcena", Colosso", Carina, Cotiaion,
Cerana, IcoJiiuni, Midaion." Plin. Hist. Nat. torn. I. lib. v. p. 284.
Ed. L. Bat. 1635.

PLAIN OF TROY. 121

of very remarkable size and sitaation drew our chap.

_ IV.

attention, for a short time, from the main object
of our pursuit.

This Tumulus, of a high conical form and very-
regular structure, stands altogether insulated.
Of its great antiquity no doubt can be enter-
tained, by persons accustomed to view the ever-
lasting sepulchres of the Antients^ By the
southern side of its base is a long natural mound
of limestone : this, beginning to rise close to the
artificial tumulus, extends towards the village of
Callifat, in a direction nearly from north to south
across the middle of the Plain. It is of such
height, that an army, encamped upon the eastern
side of it, would be concealed from all ob-
servation of persons stationed upon the coast,
by the mouth of the Mender. It reaches nearly
to a small and almost stagnant river, hitherto
unnoticed, called Callifat Osmack, or Callifat
Water, taking its name from the village near to
which it falls into the Mender : our road to this

(3) " Mr. Bryant says, the tumuli on the Plain of Troyare Thracian.
In addition to the passages in Strabo which prove the Phrygians, the
inhabitants of the country, to have been in the custom of erecting
tumuli, the following passage from Atheneeus maybe added. 'You
may see every-where in the Peloponnesus, but particularly at Laceda:-
iiioji, large heaps of earth, which they call the Tombs of the Phrygians,
who came with Pelops.' 1. xiv. i>.0:?3." TVulpolc's MS. Journal.
VOr.. III. 1

12'2 PLAIN OF TROY.

^^/v^' village afterwards led us along the top of the
'^ — ^ — ' mound. Here then both Art and Nature have
combmed to mark the Plain, by circumstances
of feature and of association not likely to occur
elsewhere ; although such as any accurate de-
scription of the country may well be expected
to include : and if the Poems of Homer, with
reference to the Plain of Troy, have similarly
associated an artificial tumulus and a natural
mound, a conclusion seems warranted, that these
are the objects to which he alludes. This ap-
pears to be the case in the account he has given
of the Tomb of Ilus and the Mound of the Plain '.

Upon the surface of the To7w5 itself, in several
small channels caused by rain, we found frag-
ments of the terra-cotta vases oi jintient Greece^ ;

(1) The Trojans were encampeJ 0#J {^aKTjxu wiSlou) upon, or near
to, tte Mound of the Plain (II. K. l60) ; and Hector holds his council
with the Chiefs, apart from the camp, at the Tomb of Ilus (II. K. 415) ;
which was therefore near to the Mound. Their coincidence of situation
induced M. Chevalier to conclude they were one and the same : De-
ecript of the Plain of Troy, p. 113. Mr. Bryant combated this opinion :
Observations upon a Treatise, Sfc. p. 9. Mr. Morritt very properly
deride? the absurdity of supposing the council to be held at a distance
from the army. Findical, of Homer, y>.96.

(2) These are still in our possession, and resemble the beautiful
earthenware found in the sepulchres of Athens, and at IVola io Italy.
The durability of such a substance is known to all persons conversant
in the Arts ; it is known to have resisted the attacks of water and
air, at least two thousand years.

PLAIN OF TROY. 123

nor can we assign any other cause for their ap- ^?^^*
pearance, than the superstitious veneration paid ^- — ^— '
to the tombs of Tiioas in all the ages of its
history, until the introduction of Christianity.
Whether they be considered as the remains of
offerings and libations made by the Greeks, or
by the Romans, they are indisputably not of mo-
dern origin. The antiquity of earthenware, from
the wheel of a Grecian potter, is as easily
to be ascertained as any remains of antient art
which have been preserved for modern obser-
vation ; and, in endeavouring to discover the
site of Grecian cities, towns, and public
monuments, such fragments of their terra-cotta
may be deemed, perhaps, equal in importance
to medals and imcriptions.

From this Tomh we rode along the top of
the Mound of the Plain, in a south-western
direction, towards Callifat. After we had pro-
ceeded about half its length, its inclination
became southward. Having attained its extre-
mity in that direction, we descended mto the
Plain, when our guides brought us to the
western side of it, near to its southern termination,
to notice a tumulus, less considerable than the
last described, about three hundred paces from
the Mound, almost concealed from observation
by being continually overflowed, upon whose

I 2

121 VLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP, top two small oak trees were then growing.
»^ — ,^— — ' This tumulus will not be easily discerned by
future travellers, from the uniformity of its
appearance, at a distance, with the rest of the
vast Plain in which it is situate, being either
covered with corn, or furrowed by the plough.
The view it commands of the coast, towards
the mouth of the Mender, may possibly entitle
it to their subsequent consideration, with re-
ference to the Sepulchre of Myrinna.

We now proceeded to the Callifat Osmack, or
Callifat Water, a river that can scarcely be said
to flow towards the Mender; yet so deep, that
we were conducted to a ford in order to pass.
Hundreds of tortoises, alarmed at our approach,
were falling from its banks into the water, as
well as from the overhanging branches and
thick underwood, among which these animals,
of all others the least adapted to climb trees,
had singularly obtained a footing. Wild-fowl,
also, were in great abundance ; and in the corn
land partridges were frequently observed. We
Opinion have no hesitation in stating, that we conceive
the iYniois. tuis river to be the SiMOis; nor would there,
perhaps, remain a doubt upon the subject, if it
PreviVnt wcrc uot for tlic prejudicc founded upon a
marvellous error, which has prevailed through-
out all the Trojan controversy concerning the

error with
icf^ard to
tlic Sca-
ui.iiidw.

PLAIN OF TROY. 125

sources of the Scamander. Pope seems first char
of all to have fallen into the notion of the double
origin of this river : since his time, fVood,
Chevalier, and their followers, have maintained
that the Scamander had tivo sources, one of
which was hot, and the other cold. The whole
of this representation has been founded upon
a misconstruction of the word riHrAI'. The
Scamander has therefore been described as
having its rise'' from two sources in the Plairiy
near to the Seaman Gate of tlie city ; hence all
the zeal which has been shewn in giving to the

(1) An expression occurs in the Prometheus of Mscuyi^vs, voruftZi
7t Tnya), [v. 89. ;). 8. Ed. Blomf.) where tlie same word is used; not
•with reference to the main heads, or original sources, of rivers; bat
to r.ll those springs by which they are augmented.

(2) Tlius described in Pope's Translation of the twenty-second iwok
ef the Iliad .•

" Next by Scamander's double source they bound,

•' Where two fam'd fountains burst the parted ground."

There is nothing in the original, either of the double source or of the

fnnte of the fountains. Homer's words are :

Acia) eivtitfffoutri Xxa^aiSoay Si»}jsvT«j.
'Sir. Bryant {Observat. cfc. p. 28.) interpreted this passage thus, — "They
arrived at two basons of fine water, from which two fountains of the
Heamander issue forth," — but combats the notion of their having any
other relation to the river. Cowper seems to have succeeded more happily
in a/fording the spirit and design of the original :

" And now they reach'd the nmning riv'lets clear,

*•■ Where from Scamander's dizzy fk)od arise

" Two fountains."

126 PLAIN OF TROY.

springs of Bonarhashy the name of those sources,
although they be many in number, and all of
them be ivarm springs, as will hereafter appear.
Having once admitted this palpable delusion
concerning the sources of the Scamander, not-
withstanding the very judicious remonstrances
of Mr. Bryant upon this part of the subject, and
the obvious interpretation of the text of Homer ,
the wildest theories ensued'. All attention to
the Plain of Troas on the north-eastern side of
the Mender was abandoned; nothing was talked
of but Bonarhashy, and its ivarm fountains ;
and these being once considered as the sources
of the Scamander, were further reconciled with
Homers description, by urging the absurdity
of believing Achilles to have pursued Hector on
the heights of Ida, when the chace is said to
have happened near to the walls of Troy. But
the plain matter of fact is this; that Homer,
in no part of his poems, has stated either the
temperature of the Scamander at its source, or
its double origin. In no part of his poems is
there any thing equivocal, or obscure, concerning
the place whence that river issues, or the nature
of its torrent. It is with him, * Scamander,

(]) Among others, tliat of making the Heights of Boiun-bash^ a part
of the chain of Mount Ida. with which they have no connection.

PLAIN OF TROY. 127

flowino- from Idean Jove''; MEFAI nOTAMOl chap.

.IV.

BA0VAINHI, ^ the great vortiginous river ^ ; 'bear- ^w— v— _^
ing on his giddy tide the body of Polijdorus to the
sea'^; ' the angry Scamander\' The springs
by which Achilles pursues Hector were tiuo
fountains ^ or rivulets, near to the bed of the
river, as expressly stated by the Poet ; but
they had no connection with the source of the
ScAMAXDER, and therefore the rise of that
river in Mount Ida causes no objection to
Homers narrative. The whole country abounds
both with hot and with cold springs ; so that,
being unauthorized by the Poet to ascend to the
source of the Scamander in search of those
fountains, we may rest satisfied with their
position elsewhere.

Continuing along the southern side of Callifat Ruins by
JVater"^, after having crossed the ford, we came osmacL''
to some Ruins upon its banks, by which the

(2) Iliad *. (3) Hiail M. 74.

(4) Iliad *. (5) Iliad *.

(6) Aoia) -rriyai. II. X. 147.

(7) The only person by whom the Callifat Water has been noticed, is.
the Eligineer Kauffer. In the Map he drew up by order of Count Ludolf,
the j^eapolita7i Minister at tlie Porte, and since published by Arrowsmith
after our return to England, it is indeed introduced; but in so slight
a manner, as to appear a much less stream than his " Scamander, vel
Xanthus," which is not the case.

28 PLAIN OF TROY.

ground was covered to a consideraljle extent.
These consisted of the most beaiitilul Doric
pillars, whose capitals and shafts, of the finest
white marble, were lying in the utmost disorder.
Among them we also noticed some entire shafts
of granite. The temples of Jupiter being always
of the Doric order, we might suppose these
Ruins to mark the site of di fane consecrated
to Mean Jove; but Doric was evidently the
prevailing order among the antient edifices of
the Troas, as it is found everywhere in the
district, and all the temples in that part of
Plirijgia would not have been consecrated to
the same Deity. The Ruins by the Callifat
Water have not been hitherto remarked by any
traveller; although Akerhlad obtained, and pub-
lished in a very inaccurate manner, an Inscription
which we also copied here. It is as old as
the Archonship of Euclid'. As it has been
already published, both in the account of the
Greek Marbles preserved in the Vestibule of the
University Library at Cambridge^, and also in
the Appendix to a Dissertation on the Soros
of Alexander^, the introduction of the original
legend here would be deemed an unnecessary

(7) See the late Professor Parsons opinion, a"> given in the Author's
account of " Greek Marbles" at Cambridge, p. 50.

(8) Ibid.

(9) " Toinb of Alexander," Append. No. 4. p. 158.

PLAIN OF TROY. 120

repetition. It was inscribed upon the lower chap.
part of a plain marble pillar : this we removed ^
to the Dardanelles, and afterwards sent to
England. The interpretation sets forth, tb.at

*^ THOSE PARTAKING OF THE SACRIFICE, AXD
OF THE GAMES, AND OF THE W^HOLE FESTIVAL,

{honoured) Pytha, daughter of Scamax-

DROTIMUS, NATIVE OF IlIUM, WHO PERFORMED
the OFFICE OF CaNEPHOROS IX AX EXEMPLARY
AND DISTINGUISHED MANNER, FOR HER PIETY

TOWARDS THE GoDDESs." In the conjecture
already offered, that the stream, on the banks
of which these edifices were raised, and these
voics were offered, was the Soio'is of the Antients,
some regard was necessarily intended, both
to the Ruins here situate, and to the Inscription
to which reference is now made. A certain
degree of collateral, although of no positive
evidence, may possibly result from the bare
mention of places and ceremonies, connected
by their situation, and consecrated by their
nature, to the history of the territory where
SiMOis flowed.

Near to the same place, upon a block of inscrip-

^ tion%.

Parian marble, we found another Inscription,
but not equally perfect. The following letters
were all we could collect, from the most careful
examination of the stone :

130 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAP. AsmoYrizi

' r-^ XMHXnNAEAYZAI

nATHPKATATHNTOYHA
OHKHNEZEniKPIMTO
KAIKIAIOYSOVnO
TAMIOYKA
AnOAE

Village of We afterwards proceeded to the Greek villaae
of Callifat, situate near to the spot where the
Callifat Osmach joins the Mender. In the streets
and court-yards of this place were lying several
capitals of Corinthian pillars ; and upon a broken
marble tablet, placed in a wall, we noticed part
of an Inscription in metre ; the rest of the cha-
racters having perished :

. . lAYZINANAPAZINIK

. nPOKAONYMO

. . POSTOZOY

Medals. While wc wcrc copying this, some peasants
of the place came to us with Greek medals.
They were all of copper, in high preservation,
and all medals of Ilium, struck in the time of
the Roman Emperors'. Upon one side was

(1) The copper coinage of Greece was not in use until ta\vards the
close of the Peloponncsian War. It was first introduced at Athens, at
the persuasion of one Dinniysius ; thence called yLuXKov;; according to
Alhencvus, lib. xv. c. S. & lib. ii. c. 12.

PLAIN OF TROY. 131

represented the figure of Hector combating,
with his shield and spear, and the words
EKTHPiAIEfiN ; and upon the other, the head
either of Antoninus, Faustina, Severus, or some
later Roman Emperor or Empress. As there
were so many of these Iliean medals^ we asked
where they were found ; and were answered, in
modern Greek, at Palaio Callifat (Old Callifat),
a short distance from the present village, in the
plain towards the east"^. We begged to be con-
ducted thither; and took one of the peasants
with us, as a guide.

We came to an elevated spot of ground, sur- Rorhainsof

1 - n • 1 1 11 T Xcwiliuvi,.

rounded on all sides by a level plain, watered
by the Callifat Osmack, and which there is every
reason to believe was the Simo'isian Plain. Here
we found, not only the traces, but also the
remains of an antient citadel. Turks were then
employed in raising enormous blocks of marble,
from the foundations which surrounded this
eminence ; and these foundations may have
been the identical works constructed by Lysi-
viachus, when he fenced New Ilium with a wall.

(2) Every traveller who has visited Greece, will be aware of the im-
portance of profiting by the mention of the word Palaio, as applied to the
name of any place. It is a never-failing indication of the site of some
antient city ; and so it proved in the present instance.

132 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAT, xiie appearance of the structure exhibited that

V— V ' colossal and massive style of architecture which

bespeaks the masonry of the early ages of
Grecian history. All the territory within these
foundations was covered by broken pottery,
whose fragments were parts of those antient
terra-colta vases which are now held in such
high estimation. Here the peasants said they
had found the medals which they had offered to
us ; and that after heavy rains, it was a very
common thing to meet with them. Many had
been discovered in consequence of the recent
excavations made there by the Turks, who were
at this time removinof the materials of the old
foundations, for the purpose of constructing
works at the Dardanelles. As these medals
plainly shew, by their indisputable legends, the
people by whom they were fabricated, and have
also, in the circumstances of their locality, a
probable reference to the Ru'ms here, they enable
us to fix, with tolerable certainty, the situation
of the city to which they belonged. Had w^e
observed, in our route from Tchiblack, precisely
the line of direction mentioned by Strabo, and
continued in a due course from east to tvesi,
instead of turning towards the souih into the
Simoisian Plain to visit the village of Callifat,
we should have terminated the distance he has
mentioned, of thirty stadia, (as separating the

PLAIN OF TROY. I33

city from the village of the lliensians) by the chap-
discovery of these Ruins. They may have been ■- .- ■
the same which Kanffer noticed in his map',
by the title of FiUe de Constantine; but they are
evidently the remains of New Ilium; whether
we regard the testimony afforded by their
situation, as agreeing with the text of Straho;
or the discovery here made of the medals of the
eit)'. Once in possession of this important
point, a light breaks in upon the dark labyrinth
of Troas; we stand with Strabo upon the very
spot whence he deduced his observations con-
cerning other objects in the district; looking
down upon the Simohian Plain, and viewing in
front of the city, towards the south-iuest, the
junction of the iiuo rivers; " one flowing towards
Sigevm, and the other towards Rhceteum,^' pre-
cisely as described by him ; being guided, at
the same time, to CaUicolone, the village of the
Ilieans, and the sejmlchres of ALsyetes, Batieia,
and Ilus, by the clue he has afforded ^ From
the natural or the artificial elevation of tlie

(1) See the Map. pul)lished by ArrowsmiLh, of The Plain of Troy,
from an original design by Kauffer ; also the Vignetle to this Chapter.

(2) The Reader is requested to pay particular attention to the smaJl
sketch which has been engraved for a Vignette to this Chapter, in order
to observe the extraordinary coincidence between the actual survey of the
J'Uin, and the description given by Strabo, in lii«; account of Troa--,
lib. xiii. pp. 85.';, 861. Ed. Ox.

134 PLAIN OF TROY.

CHAR territory on which the city stood, (an insulated
' object in the Plain,) we beheld almost every
land-mark to which that author has alluded.
The splendid spectacle presented towards the
we^/by the snow-clad top o^ Samothrace, towering
behind Imbrus, would baffle every attempt of
delineation : it rose with prodigious grandeur ;
and while its setherial summit shone wdth
indescribable brightness in a sky without a
cloud, it seemed, notwithstanding its remote
situation, as if its vastness would overwhelm all
Troas, should an earthquake heave it from its
base. Nearer to the eye appeared the mouth
of the Hellespont, and Sigeum. Upon the south,
the Tomb of jEsyetes, by the road leading to
jilexandria Troas^; and less remote, the Sca-
MANDER, receiving Simois, or CaUifat Water,
at the boundary of the Simo'isian Plain. Towards
the east, the Throsmos, with the sepulchres of
Batieia and Ilus : and far beyond, in the great
Idean chain, Gar gams opposed to Samothrace^,

Sirab. Gengr. lib. xiii. p. 863. Ed. Ox.

(2) It is only by viewing the stupendous prospect afforded in these
classical regions, that any adequate idea can be formed of Homer's ix)\\ers
as a painter, and of the accuracy which distinguishes what JMr. JFood
(Essay on Corner, p. 132.) terms his " celestial geography." Neptune,
placed on tlie top of Samolhrace, commanding a prospect of Ida, Trot/,
and thefieet, observes Jupiter, upon Gargarus, turn his back ujion Troas-
What is intended by tliis averted posture of the Cod, other than that

Cargann

PLAIN OF TROY. 135

dignified by equal if not superior altitude, and chap.

beamino^ the same degree of splendour from the v -^^ ,/
snows by which it was invested.

Gargarus was partially concealed by a cloud, while Samothrace remained
unveiled ; a circumstance so often realized ? All the march of Juno,
from Olympus, by Pieria and Mmathia, to Athos ; from Aihos, by sea,
to Lemnos ; and thence to Imhros, and Gargarus ; is a correct delineation
of the striking face of Nature, in which the picturesque wildness and
grandeur of real scenery is further adorned by a sublime poetical fiction.
Hence it is evident that Homer must have lived in the neighbourhood of
Troy; that he borrowed the scene of the Iliad (as stated by Mr. JFood,
p. 182,) from ocular examination ; and the action of it, from the pre-
vailing tradition of the times.

Honierian Car.

CHAP. V.

DISTRICT OF TROAS.

Ford of the Mender — Fountains of Bonarhashy — their
Temperature — Possible Allusion to them in Homer —
Antiquities of Bonarhashy — Heights called the Acropolis
— Antient Tumuli — Prohalle Origin of the supposed
Acropolis — Observations by the Polar Star — Journey to
the Source of the Mender — Basalt Pillars — .^neia —
Remarkable Tomb — Plain of Beyramitch — TurkmanU
— Bonarhashy of Beyramitch — Warm Springs —
Beyramitch — Antiquities — Kuchunlu Tepe — Temple
and Altars of Jupiter — Evgillar — Ascent to the Summit
o/" Gargarus — Oratories of Hermits — Vieiv from the
highest Point of the Mountain — Errors in the Geogi-aphy

DISTRICT OF TROAS. I37

of the Country — Appearance of the Ideean Chain towards
Lectum — Dangerous Situation of the Author.

It was now time to visit Bonarbashyy a place en vp.
of which so much has been written and said, ^.^^.—w'
It had long been a conspicuous object in sight;
and appeared at a distance towards the south-
east, upon an eminence commanding a very
extensive view of all the Plain. Returninsr
therefore to CaUifat, we took the ordinary road
to it from Koumkale, and soon arrived at a ford
of the Mender ; at this time so broad and deep, F«'dofth«

1 1111 ^ , iMcud.r.

that we were glad to hail some Turks at a
considerable distance upon the opposite shore,
and ask if it were passable. They answered in
the affirmative ; but we narrowly escaped being
carried off, horses and all, by the torrent. We
rode, quite up to the girths, across a place two
hundred feet wide, and the current was ex-
tremely rapid. It reminded us of those rivers
in the north of Sweden, which fall into the Gulph
of Bothnia. It was at this ford that our friend
Mr. now Sir IVilliam Gell, in a very different
season of the year, was in danger of losing all
the fruits of his journey, by letting his papers
fall into the river'. He stated the breadth of

(1) Topography of Troi/, p. 15. See also the very accurate represen-
tafion of tlie Fnrd, wiih a view, from it, of JDonarbashy, in the 24th
Plate, p. 70. of the same work. I am able and anxious to bear ample

tcstinionv

138 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, it as somewhat more than a hundred feet. la
certain periods of the year, it inundates all the
neighbouring territory ; and the marks of such
an inundation, caused by the branches of trees,
reeds, and rushes, left by the water on the
land, were visible a considerable distance from
its banks, at the time we passed. It has been
u«ual to consider this river, which bears every
characteristic of the Scamander, as the Simojs
o( Homer ; but there is positive evidence to the
contrary'. All the principal battles of Homer
were fought either on the banks of the Simois,

testimony to Sir IVilliam Cell's accuracy, in all the engravings whicli
have been made from his drawings. We were together in Constantinople,
in 1800; and both visited Troas in the following year. Our journey
took place in March 1801 : Sir IV. Gell did not arrive until December.

(I) It is quite amusing to observe the freedom of citation, and
palpable errors, which have been tolerated in the discussion of this
subject. In Mons'". Chevalier's Description of the Plain of Troy, we
find the author (p. 3.) supporting the following observations, by references
to the text of Homer : " I shall distinguish the impetuous course of the
rapid Simois, and the limpid stream of the divine Scaviander." In the
margin, the Reader is directed to tlie 12th book of the Iliad, v. 21, 22 ;
the 21st, 1^307; the 7th, f. 329; and also to the 12th, v. 21, &c. for
authorities concerning the epithets thus given to the two rivers. If he
take for granted the fidelity of M. Chevalier, it is all very well ; but th«
slightest examination of the passages referred to, dispels the illusion.
Nothing is there said, either of imjjetuous and rapid Simo'is, or of the
limjiid stream of the Scamander. Yet the same author had found in
Jiatjle's Dictionaiy, under the article 'Scamander,' {see p.4S.) that
Julia, the daughter of ydvgusius, met with the fate of Sir William Gell's
Journals, which we also narrowly escaped, in fording the torrent of the
Mender.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 139

or veiy near to it ; that is to say, within the cha.p.

SiMOisiAX Plaix. Homer, enumerating the ' r— '

rivers brought to act against the Grecian rampart,
thus characterizes the SiMOi's^:

Kflt; 2<|tt(i£<j, 'oil 'TToXXu /Ztayptx sccci r^vlpctXiictt y

If, then, we can point out aiiy other passage
which decides the position of the Scamaxder
witii regard to the Simois, we may identify
the two rivers, without any reference to the
circumstances of their origin, merely by the
geography of the country. Such a passage
occurs in the eleventh book of the Iliad, where
Hector is described as being upon the left of
all the war, and, at the same time, upon the
banks of the Scamaxder^:

The Scamaxder being therefore on the left
of the Trojan army, and the battle in the
Simo'isian Plain, having in front the Grecian camp
and the sea, the nature of the territory is
sufficient to decide the relative position of the

(2) Iliad M. 22. jBarnw. Cant. nil.

(3) Iliad A. 497. Ibid.
VOL. Til. K

140 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

two rivers. The scene of action can only be
reconciled with the plain of Callifat Osmach,
bounded on the left, to a person facing the
Hellespont, by the Mender^-, which river is as
necessarily proved to have been the Scamander.
of Homer.

Fountains Aftcr having passed the ford, we galloped
basky. up to thc Aglicis mansion at Bonarhashy ; the
name of which place, literally translated, sig-
nifies " The head of the springs'"'' Immediately
on our arrival, we hastened to them, keeping
a thermometer exposed and pendent the whola
way, as the sun was then setting, and a fa-
vourable opportunity offered for an accurate
Sature™" investigation of their temperature. Some pea-
sants who conducted us, related the tradition
concerning the supposed heat and cold of the
different sources ; one only being, as they said,
a hot spring. We desired to examine this first;
and for that purpose were taken to a place

(1) See the Vignette to the last Chapter. — Mr. Wood (Essay on
Homer, p. 89.) was thoroughly impressed with the necessity of ad-
mitting the Simo'is to be on the eastern side of the Scamander, by the
remarks made upon Mr. Pope's Map, in which tlie Engraver had
reversed the position, not only of the rivers, but also of the two
promontories, Rhsteum and Sigeliivi ; *' so that," says he, " the Sca-
mander runs on that side of Troy which belongs to the Simo'is."

(2) Places are named in Wales after the same manner ; as Pen tre
FYNNVN, * The head of the three springs'

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 141

about half a mile from the jighas house, to chap.
the most distant of the several springs ; for, v . » .■ /
in fact, there are many, bursting from different
crevices, through a stratum o^ breccia or Pudding-
stone, covered by a superincumbent layer of
limestone. From the number of the springs,
the Turks call the place Kirk Geuse, or ' Forty
Eyes.'' We then asked the peasants if this
were the hot spring, as it evidently was not
the same which has been described by Mons\
Chevalier. They replied, that its greatest heat
might be observed during winter, and therefore
that it must be now hot'^. It was a shallow
pool of water, formed by the united product
of many small streams, issuing from several
cavities in the rock we have mentioned. This,
pool was quite overshadowed by some distant
hills, behind which the sun was then setting ;
it was therefore a proper time for ascertaining
the temperature, both of the air and the water.
A north wind had prevailed during the day,
but the sky had been more than usually serene,
and without a cloud : not a breath of air was
then stirring. We first tried the water with
our hands; it felt warm, and even the rock

(3) Almost the only winter the T'MrA.s had in 1801, was during the
month of March. The peasants believe the ?ieat to be greater at that
season of the year, merely because the external air is colder. The
temperature of the water is always the same.

142 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

near and aJDOve the surface of the water was
sensibly affected by heat. We then had re-
course to our thermometer : it was graduated
according to the scale of Celsius; but we shall
give the result according to the corresponding
elevation of Fahrenheit, being more adapted
to common observation in England. When
exposed to the external air, the mercury stood
at 48° ; or sixteen degrees above the freezing
point. We then placed it in one of the crevices
whence the water issued, so as to immerse
both the tube and the scale : in two minutes,
the mercury rose to 62^ and it there remained.
We then tried the same experiment in all the
other crevices ; and found the heat of the water
the same, although the temperature of the
external air was lowered to 47"". From hence
we proceeded to the hot spring of M. Chevalier ;
and could not avoid being struck by the
plausible appearance it offered, for those who
wished to find here a hot and a cold spring, as
fountains of the Scamander. It gushes per-
pendicularly out of the earth, rising from the
bottom of a marble and granite reservoir, and
throwing up as much water as the famous
fountain of Holyivell in Flintshire. Its surfiice
seems vehemently boiling; and during cold
weather, the condensed vapour above it causes
the appearance of a cloud of smoke over the

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 143

well. The marble and s-ranite slabs around it chap.

are of great antiquity; and its appearance, '■ y ^
in the midst of surrounding trees, is highly
picturesque. The mercury had now fallen, in
the external air, to 46", the sun being down;
but when the thermometer was held under
water, it rose as before, to 62°. Notwith-
standing the warmth of this spring, fishes were
seen sporting in the reservoir. When held
in the stream of either of the two channels
which conduct the product of these springs
into a marsh below, the temperature of the
water was diminished, in proportion to its
distance from the source whence it flowed.
We repeated similar observations afterwards,
both at midnight, and in the morning before
sun-rise ; but always with the same results.
Hence it is proved, that i\\Q fountains oiBonarhashy
are all of them luarm springs; and there are
many such springs, of different degrees of tem-
perature, in all the district through which the
Mender flows, from Ida to the Hellespont. That
the tiuo channels conveying these streams towards Possible

111 aHusion in

the Scamander may have been the AOIAI IlHrAI Homer to
oi' Homer \ is at least possible: and when it is tamslt^'
considered, that a notion still prevails in the i^'^J'

(l) The following is a literal translation of the words of the f'etietia?i
ikholiast, upon II. X. 148. " Two fountains J'rom the Scamander rise
in the plain; but the fountains nf the Scamander are not in the plaiuK*

144 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, country, of one being hot, and the other cold;
V ly .»' that the women of the place bring all their
garments to be washed in these springs, not
according to the casual visits of ordinary
industry, but as an antient and established
custom, in the exercise of which they proceed
with all the pomp and songs of a public
ceremony; it becomes perhaps /jroiai'Ze'. The
remains of customs belonging to the most
remote ages are discernible in the shape and
construction of the wicker cars, wherein the
linen is brought upon these occasions, and
which are used all over this country. In the
first view of them, we recognised the form
of an antient car, of Grecian sculpture, in the
Vatican Collection at Rome; and this, although
of Parian Marble, has been so carved as to
resemble wicker-work; while its wheels are
an imitation of those solid circular planes of
timber used at this day, in Troas, and in many
parts of Macedonia and Greece, for the cars of
the country. They are expressly described
by Homer, in the mention made of Prianis
litter, when the king commands his sons to bind

(l) The full description of such a ceremony occurs in the sixth
book of the Odyssey; where it is related, that the daughter oi Alc'mous,
with all the Maidens of her train, proceeds to wash the linen of her
family. According to Pausanias, there was an antient picture to be
seen in his time, in which this subject was represented.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 145

on the chest, or coffer, which was of wicker-ivorL chap.

v
upon the body of the carnage ^ ' ^ '

As we returned to the house of the ^gha, the
prospect of the Plain was becoming dim in
twilight. Samothrace still appeared; and when
the moon rose over all, the minuter traces of
the scene were no longer discernible ; but the
principal objects, in fine distinct masses, re-
mained long visible.

In the morning we observed a number of Antiquities
antiquities m and about the place ; such as, tashy.
fragments of Doric and Ionic pillars of marble,
some columns of granite, broken bas-reliefs, and,
in short, those remains so profusely scattered
over this extraordinary country; serving to
prove the number of cities and temples, once the
boast of Troas, without enabling us to ascertain
the position of any one of them. There is every
reason to believe that some antient town was
originally situate at Boxarbashy; not only
by these remains, but by the marks of antient

(2) Iliad fi. This wicker chest, being; moveable, is u^ed or not, as
rircumstaiices may require. The Vignette to this Chapter, engraved
from a sketch made upon the spot by M. Preaux, exhibits to the
Reader a very accurate representation of the Homerian Car, with its
appendage of wicker-work.

146 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, turrets^ as of a citadel, in the soil immediately
* ^- ■ behind the house of the jigha. The relics of
very antient pavement may also be observed in
the street of the village ; and in the front of
it, upon a large block of Parian marble, used as
a seat, near to the mosque, Mr. JValpole observed
a curious Inscription, which is here subjoined, in^
an extract from his Journal '.

CO " I shall here give an Inscription which I copied at Bourua-
bashy, and which has never yet been published. It is on a piece of
marble, now serving as a seat, and very interesting, being found on
the supposed site of Troy 5 but to what city of the Troad it belongec[,
cannot be determined from any fact mentioned in it. From the
omission of the lura. adscript, it may be referred to the time of the
Romans (See Cfdshull, Antiq. Asiat.) ; and a form of expression pre-
cisely similar to one in the inscription is to be found in the Answer
of the Romans to the Teians, in Chishull, p. 102.

..... ENPANTIKAIPnPEPITHZ

PPOZTOOEIONEYZEBEIAZ

KAIMAAIZTAPPOXTHNAOHNAN

EKTHSPPOTEPONrPA<l)EIZHZ

EPIZTOAHSPPOZYMAZPE

PEISMAinAZi<{>ANEPONPE

<l>YKENAIKAOHNATZTEBOYZKAt

TOYZBOYKOAOYS . . .

" This Inscription seems to have formed part of a message to the,
citizens or magistrates of the place ; and the writer refers in it to
something formerly addressed to them concerning piety towards the
Gods, but particularly towards Minerva ; and mention is made cf
oxen, w'hich may have been offered up to the Goddess ; as Xerxes, we
find from Herodotus, sacrificed to her, when at Trov, a tbousau4
oxen ; £Vf« ;^(X/a; /iijyj," WalpoW s MS. Journal.

Height";
called The

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 14/

At a distance behind Bonarhashy, and not in chap.
any way connected either with the antiquities
there, or with the place itself, are the Heights,
which recent travellers, and several of the ^'^'"/"''"
author's particular friends, after the example of
M. Chevalier, have thought proper to entitle the
Acropolis of Antient Troy. Not having his own
mind satisfied upon the subject, he would be
extremely deficient in duty to his Readers, if
any sense of private regard induced him to
forego the stronger claim they have to his
sincerity. Having already shewn the nature of
the error concerning the source of the Scamander,
which first induced M. Chevalier to adapt ap-
pearances at Bonarhashy to the history of Ilium,
he is now particularly called upon to point out
M. Chevaliers other misrepresentations. One
of the most glaring is that which concerns the
tempei'ature of the springs": another is, in
describing the heights now alluded to, as a part
of the Chain of Mount Ida, although separated
from it by the whole plain of Beyramitch, which
intervenes towards the east : and a third, that
of representing the heights belonging to the
supposed Acropolis, as a continuation of the
ascent whereon Bonarhashy is placed; so that

(2) " The one of these sources is in reality irnrm, &c. and the
other is always cold." Chevalier s Descrift. of Plain of Troy, p. 127.

148 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, the Reader supposes a gradual rise to take
V ,^- , ' place from what he has defined as the relative
situation of the lower to the upper city ; although
a deep and rocky dingle intervenes, never yet
subjected to any effort of human labour, that
might serve to connect the two places with
each other. The antiquities on these heights
are certainly very remarkable, and worthy
every degree of attention a traveller can bestow
upon them. We shall now proceed to describe
their appearance.

Proceeding in a south-easterly direction from
the sloping eminence on which Bonarhashy is
situate, we crossed the dingle here mentioned;
and then began to climb the steep, whereon it
has been supposed the citadel of Priam stood.
Upon the very edge of the summit, and as it
Antient wcre hanging over it, is an antient tumulus,
constructed entirely of stones, heaped, after the
usual manner, into a conical shape, and of the
ordinary size of such sepulchres : this, although
various, may be averaged according to a cir-
cumference, for the base, equal to one hundred
yards ; and these are nearly the dimensions of
the base of this tumulus, which has been called
the Tomb of Hector'. That this name has been

(l) It is uinety-three yarJs in circunifereuce.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 145

inconsiderately given, will be evident from the chap.
statement of a single fact ; namely, that it stands ■

outside of the remains, insignificant as they are,
of the wall once surrounding the hill upon
which it is placed ; although that wall has been
described as the antient inclosure of the sup-
posed citadel. The evidence aiftorded by the
one is therefore nearly sufficient to contradict
the other ; for, although Homer be not explicit
as to the situation of Hectors tomb, there is
every other reason to suppose it was erected
within the walls of the city. But there are
other tumuli upon these heights, equally entitled,
by their size and situation, to the distinction so
hastily bestowed upon this. It will therefore
be curious to ascertain the cause of its present
appellation, and to shew how very little foun-
dation it had in reality. This tumulus has been
formed entirely of loose stones"; and the

(2) Here we found a new species of Orchis, which we liave called
Orchis HeroIca. Orchis lahello emarginatn, olicordato litissimo ;
petalis sulerectis ovato ohlongis ; bracleis germine longiorihiis i cornit
fuhcendente subulato germine hreviore ; foliis carinatis subtrisijormibus :
bulbis ovatis. By the side of it grew the Yellow Star of Bethlehem,
Oinithngnlum luteum ; and the Grape Hyacinth, Hi/ncinthus racemosns.
On other parts of these heights we found, inoreoxer, a new species of
Cardamiyie, which has received the name of Cardamine tenella. The
following is the description of it : Cardatnine folds simplieihus,
ternatis, pinnatisfjue ciliatis pilosis ; foltolis last inecqualibus subreniformi-
bits ; siliquts Uneuribus longis. Other plants, interesting only in their
locality, were, Ananone Jpcnnina, Teucrium Polium, ^nemom Hor-
tensis, and Sedum' Cepcua.

150 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, coincidenee of such a circumstance with Homers
description of the Tomb of Hector was deemed
a sufficient proof of the identity of the tomb
itself'. A Httle further attention, however, to
these monuments would have shewn that they
were all constructed after the same manner ;
the stones of the other uimuli being only con-
cealed from observation by a slight covering of
soil. From this spot the whole of the Isle of
Tenedos is in view, and a most magnificent
prospect is afforded of the course of the Sca-
MAKDER to the sea, with almost all Troas,
and every interesting object it contains. This
consideration', together with the remarkable
character of the hill itself, surrounded by
precipices above the river ^ and, still more, the
erroneous opinions entertained of the springs at
Bonarbashy, superseded every objection urged
concerning its distance from the coast, and the
utter impossibility of reconciling such a position
of the city with the account given by Homer of
the manner in which Hector was pursued around
its wails by Achilles'^.

(1) Iliad XI. Sea also Chevalier's Description, &c. p. 125.

(2) " Est in conspectu Tenedos."

(3) Whence the Trojans were invited to cast down the Grecian
horse.

(4) Iliad X. Some autliors, misled by Virgil, C5?». I. 487.) have
affirmed that Achilles dragged the body of Hector thrice round th« city.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 151

One hundred and twenty-three paces from
the tumulus, called by Chevalier, and by others,
the Tomb of Hector, is a second ; a more regular
and a more considerable artificial heap of the
same nature, and in every respect having a
better title to the name bestowed upon the
first. The base of this is one hundred and
thirty-three yards in circumference. An hun-
dred and forty-three paces farther on, upon the
hill, is a third, the circumference of whose base
measured ninety yards. Names have been
already bestowed upon them all ; the^r^^ being
called, as before stated, the Tomh of Hector ;
the second, that of Priam ; and the third, that
of Paris. After passing these tumuli, appear
the precipices flanking the south-eastern side of
the hill above the Scamander, which winds
around its base. So much has been already
written and published upon the subject, that
it is not necessary to be very minute in de-
scribing every trace of human labour upon this
hill. The extent of its summit is eight hundred
and fifty yards ; its breadth, in the widest part,
equals about two hundred and fifty. The foun-
dations of buildings, very inconsiderable in
their nature, and with no character of remote
antiquity, may be discerned in several parts of
it: the principal of these are upon the most
elevated spot towards the precipices surrounding

152 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, its south-eastern extremity; where the appear-

■ ances, as well of the soil as of masonry,

certainly indicate the former existence of some

antient superstructure. But the remains are

not of a description even to denote the site of

Probable a Roman citadel : they seem rather to be

ongm

the°sup- vestiges of the retreats of those numerous
^Aa-oiioiii. pirates which in different ages have infested the
Hellespont; and whose dispersion, in the time of
Drusus CcEsar, gave occasion to the memorial
of gratitude before noticed, as inscribed upon
one of the marbles we removed from the ruins
2it Hal'il Elly^ . This remark applies solely to
the buildings. The tumuli upon these heights
undoubtedly relate to a very different period ;
and whether their history may be carried back
to the events of the Trojan War, or to the
settlement of Milesian colonies upon the coast,
is a point capable of some elucidation, whenever
future travellers may have an opportunity to
examine their interior.

Thus far of Bonarhashy, its springs, and its
antiquities. During the rest of our residence
in the place, we made several excursions into
the Plain, revisiting the objects before described.

(l) See the preceding: Chapter, p. 111.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. I53

We crossed the whole district, in different
directions, not less than seventeen times; but
have preferred giving the Reader the result of
our observations in a continued narrative, rather
than in the exact order of their occurrence ; as
this must necessarily have introduced super-
fluous and wearisome repetitions^. We took o^'^en-^-

^ tionsbythe

the following bearings by the polar star. Due roiarStar.
north of Bonarhashy stands the Hill of Tchiblack.
To the west lies Tenedos; and in the same line,
nearer to the eye, is the Tomb of jEsyetes. The
springs are towards the south ; and the tumuli,
upon the heights behind Bonarhashy, to the
south-east. Lemnos, and a line of islands, are
seen from the heights, bearing from south-east
towards the north-iuest.

On the eiohth of March, the memorable day Journey to

° -^ tlie Sourcfe

when our troops under General Jlbercromhie of the

ji[cnder.

(2) During these excursions, I collected several plants which
deserve notice. True Lion's Leaf, Lenntice Leontopetalum, flourished
in different parts of the plain. The blossoms are yellow, with a tinge
of green, in large leafy bunches ; the leaves almost like those of a
Pseotiy ; and the root a bulb, resembling that of the Cyclamen, but
larger. This curious and beautiful plant is not yet introduced into
any English garden. Also the Cluster-headed Club Rush, Scirpus
Holoschcenus. This is found in England, upon the coast of Hampshire,
and in Devonshire. Solitary-flowered Trefoil, Trifoliuvi uniflorum.
Dwarf rayed Thistle, Atractylis humilis. Beardless horned Cumin,
Hypecoum imberhe, described by Dr. Smith in the Prodromus to
Dr. Sibthorpe's Flora Grcpca. A non-descript horned Cumin, with very
sharp leaves, and much-branched flower-stalks. The Poppy, Anemone
eoronaria, was common every whet i;.

154 DISTRICT OF TROAS,

ciTAP. were landed in Egypt, and while that event
V -,-, , 1 was actually taking place, we left Bonarhashj,
determined, if possible, to trace the Mender to
its source in Mount Ida, about forty miles up
the country. Distances in Turkey being every-
where estimated according to the number of
hours in which caravans of camels, preceded by
an ass, are occupied in performing them, the
Reader is requested to consider every such hour
as equivalent to three of our English miles. After
riding, according to this estimate, an hour and a
half towards the south-east, we descended to the
village of uiraplar. We afterwards proceeded
through a valley, where we observed, in several
liasnmc places, the appearance of regular basaltic pillars.
i ins. Y|jgj^(.g^ entering a defile of the mountains, very
like some of the passes in the Tirol, we were
much struck with the grandeur of the scenery.
Shepherds were playing their reed pipes among
the rocks, while herds of goats and sheep were
browsing on the herbage near the bed of the
torrent. We passed a place called Sarmo saktchy
cupre, an old coemetery, on the left-hand side of
the road. In this, by way of grave-stone, was
placed a natural basaltic pillar, upright in the
soil, among fragments of others. The pillar
was hexagonal; about seven feet in height,
and ten inches diameter ; of hard black basalt,
without any horizontal fissures, like those seen
in the pillars of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland,

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 155

but as regular in its sides and angles as the chap.
finest specimen of crystallized emerald. The -
author, who has attended very particularly to
the appearances presented by basalt in many
parts of the world, in the beds of rivers, in
lakes, and in the sea ; and has traced them
almost the whole way from the north coast of
Ireland, through all the Hebrides, to Iceland; is
convinced that this regularity of structure in
basalt is entirely owing to crystallization. The
original deposit whence the pillars in this place
were derived, does not lie far from the road-
The strata on each side consisted, for the most
part, of limestone ; but we observed a subjacent
bed of schistus, containing greenish actinolite : a jcHnoUte.
similar deposit has been found upon the western
coast of Inverness-shire, in Scotland. A wild
race of mountaineers appeared occasionally
descending the heights into the defile ; or
seated by the banks of the river, with sandals
on their feet, made of undressed bulls' hides,
bound with thongs of the same materials around
their ankles and insteps. Such was the caliga^
or military shoe, as we now see it represented
by Grecian bronzes and medals ; and it is pro-
bable that from these mountains a costume
might be selected exhibiting the appearance of
the people over whom JEneas, retiring up the
country, is said to have reigned, after the

VOL. III. L

156 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, capture of Troij'. At four hours' distance from
/- ' Bonarbashy we came to the town of jEne, the
yEKEiA. ^NEiA of Slratcr, situate upon a river falling
into the Mender, which Mr. fVood has described
as being itself the Scamander\ The appearance
of the town is very pleasing, being ornamented
with cypresses, and backed by lofty rocks and
mountains. We were surprised in finding a
place of so much consequence so remotely
situate. Its remarkable appellation, still com-
memorating the name of JEneas, and having
borne the same appellation in the time of
Augustus, speaks more forcibly the truth of the
story of Troy, than any written document. It
is an existing evidence, against which there is
no possible appeal. Its situation exactly cor-^
responds with the position assigned to it by
Slrabo, who relates its distance from Pal^e
Scepsis, a name also preserved in the modern
appellation, Eshy Shiipshu*. Upon the right

(l) Slrah. Geog:r. lib. xiii. p. 873, ed. Ox.

(^) Ibid. p. 869. ^-/iff) yovv Thv YlaXca^xn'^n r7,s fiiv At/i'ia; ^li^^nt

dstf^KOVTet ffTC^IOVS. K. &. X.

(3) Descript of the Troade, p. 323.

(4) Fifty stadia, or six miles and a quarter. The Greek word riaXa*
and the Turkish Eshy have the same sig^nification. The TurliS often
translated epithets connected with the names of places mto their own
laiiguag^e, while they retained the substantive unaltered. Thus the
Palcc Scepsis of Slrabo still beairs the name with them of Esh^
Skilpshu.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 157

hand, in the approach to JEnc, is a most stupen- chap.
dous tLimuhis, called jllnc Tcpe, literally JEneas ■
Tomb. Some Jens called it also Sovran Ttpe, or aJeXoirb.
Tojfih of the King. The word Sovran has perhaps
an Italian origin. Tcpe, signifying, in Turkish,
an HEAP or tomb, is evidently the same with
lia(pog : and tradition seems to afford, with
regard to this tomb, as good a foundation for
believing it to be the sepulchre of ^ncas, as
Strabo found in the authority of Demetrius of
Scepsis for his royalty in the country. The
inhabitants of jEne pretend that they find
medals in considerable number : we could hear
of none, however, that had been seen of gold or
of silver ; therefore the medals cannot be of very
antient date. In the wall of the Khan, or Inn,
we observed a marble, with the following imper-
fect Inscriptions

AYZ I E
O n A T H P
T O M N H M E 1 O r4
H S E A A K PYn I

TA I O Z

In a ccsmetery close to the road leading
from jEne to Turkmanle, the inhabitants had
used natural as well as artificial pillars for grave-
stones. We saw several columns of basalt
upright in the earth, mixed ^Yith others of

1. 2

158 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, 'rraniie. There were no less than twelve of the
<■■ .y ■> latter, of the Doric order. This part of our
journey, from ^ne to Turkmanle, conducted
Plain of ug through part of the beautiful Plain of Bey-
mitch. ramitch; appearing to the eye one of the
happiest territories in nature, cultivated like a
garden, regularly inclosed, and surrounded by
mountains. The distance between the two
places is said to be two hours and a half. We
frequently met camels and dromedaries, and
we observed buffaloes everywhere used in tillage^
The road in some places consisted of antient
pavement, to a considerable extent. We also
crossed an antient bridge. Before entering
Turkmanle, we observed the appearances of
mounds heaped upon the soil, together mth
a few granite pillars, some of which were still
standing, and other remains denoting the site
of some antient citadel or temple. Various an-
tiquities may be noticed in the whole of this
route : they are very abundant in and about
the town of Turkmanle. As we drew nigh to
this place, the view of Gargarus, the highest
of all the chain of mountains belonging to Ida,
appeared in great grandeur; but so invested
by snow, that we feared we should be unable
to reach its summit. The north wind blowing
at the same time piercingly, we had reason
to apprehend that our difficulties would rather

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 159

increase than diminish. We continued our chap.

journey, however, and arrived at TurhmanU. ^ >. .. ^
Here we experienced that cleanly hospitality, ^iZiU.
and that homely welcome, which are often found
to characterize the inhabitants of mountainous
districts. Our host received us into a large
and airy room, upon whose spacious hearth
he had heaped together the entire trunks of
trees, all of which were in a blaze. A sheep
was instantly killed, and dressed ; not only for
our present meal, but to serve as provision for
our journey. Instead of torches or candles,
lighted splinters 'of wood were used. The
interior of our chamber reminded us of the
halls of some of our oldest English mansions;
in which all the members of the family, from
the highest to the lowest, met together. It is
very probable that our ancestors borrowed the
style of their dwelling-houses from the East^
during the Crusades. The custom of suspending
arm-our, weapons, and instruments for the chace,
upon the walls, is quite Oriental; so is that
of the raised platform for superior guests constir
tuting the upper extremity of the apartment.
To these may be added the small panelled
wainscot, full of little cupboards ; and the
latticed windows, nearer to the ceiling than to
the floor. Several of the inhabitants came to
pay Hieir respects, and welcome the strangers;

160 DISTRICT OF TRDAS.

CHAP. They had never before seen Englishmen ; but
V -y- ./ they gave us an account of certain Frenchmen^
w\\o had endeavoured, without success, to visit
the top pf Gargarus, which they called Kazdaghy:.
From this place a road leads to Beyram, antiently
Assos, upon the Adramytlian Gulph, now called
Ydramit. The Ruins of Assos were described
to us as sufficient to employ any person two
days in a mere survey. Many Inscriptions are
said to exist there, hitherto unobserved by
European travellers.

Half an hour after leaving Turhmanle we
came to Bonarhashy of Beyramitch, the second
place we had seen of that name; and so called,
'Warm likc tlic first, ffom its vicinity to ih.Q fountain-head
of some very remarkable warm springs, three
of which gush with great violence from artificial
apertures, into a marble reservoir entirely con-
structed of antient materials. This beautiful
bason is shaded by the oldest and finest Oriental
plane-trees. Its waters take their course into
the plain, where they fall into the Mender. The
people of the place relate the same story of
these springs as of the others at Bonarhashyy
the supposed site of Ilium. They affirm, that
they are cold in summer, and hot in winter, when
it is said smoke ascends from them. The frost
>vas on the ground at the same time we tasted

Spring

DISTRICT OF TROAS." IGl

tlie water, which was quite warm ; yet bufH^loes chai'.
were swallowing it greedily, and seemed to .
delight in the draught they made. Its tempe-
rature is probably always the same. We found
it equal to 69° of Fahrenheit. The shafts of two
pillars of granite, of the Doric order, stood, one
on each side of the fountains ; and half the ope?-
culum of a marble Soros ' lay in the v/all above
them. Some peasants brought to us a few
barbarous medals of the lower ages, with effigies
gf Saints and Martyrs.

An hour after leaving this place we came to uei/m.
Beyramitch, a city belonging to the Pasha of the
Dardanelles, and present capital of all Troas.
It is a large place, filled with shops. The
houses seemed better built and more regularly
disposed than in Constantinople. Ail the land
around belongs to the Pasha before mentioned,
whom the Porte has nearly ruined by extorted
contributions. In the yard of the Khan, or Inn,
is a inarhle cglumn, exhibiting a variety of the
Doric order, which we had then never seen,
excepting in Thoas. Instead of being fluted.

(1) The substitution of Soros for Sarcophagus is not made with the
smallest disposition to pedantry, but as it strictly ap[>lies to the
antient Greek Tomb. Some remarks upon this subject will be found
ju the following Chapter.

162 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, the shaft is bevelled, so as to present a poly-
gonal surface. Others, of the same kind, were
among the antiquities lying on the hill at
Tchiblack. This column stands in the middle
of a bason, serving as a public conduit, wholly
constructed of antient materials. All these,
together with an astonishing quantity of other
stones for building, were brought from some
Ruins lately discovered upon a lofty hill, which
we were told we should pass immediately after
leaving Beyramitch, in our journey towards the
source of the Mender ; the Pasha havinof made
very considerable excavations there, in search
of marbles, and other building materials. In the
streets of Beyramitch we noticed more than one
Soros constructed of entire masses of granite,
which the inhabitants had removed from the
same place. One of the inhabitants told us he
had lately brought thence several broken pieces
of sculpture, to which we should be welcome,
if we could obtain permission from the Pasha
for their removal. This was granted, and we
afterwards brought them to England'.

(l) They are now in the vestibule of the University Library at
Camh-idge. Que of them represents the lower half of a female
figure^ the drapery of which is exquisitely fine : the other is a bust
of Juno, in Parian marble. See " Greek Marbles," &c. p. 38.
No. XVJ. and p. 48. No. XXVI.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 103

The place where all these antiquities have cttap.
been discovered is rather a conical mountain '

Ki'ish unli.

than a hill, bearing the name of Kushiinlu Tepe, ^"^^^
at two hours' distance from Beyramitch, towards
Gargarus. Indeed it has been so placed by
Nature, that it resembles a sort of advanced
position at the base of that mountain, imme-
diately beneath its summit. The Mender, or
ScAMANDER, flows at its foot. The river is
here generally called Kasdagky, from the name
now given to Gargarus, the mountain whence it
issues. The principal site of the antiquities
upon Kushunlu Tepe is about half way up the
side of the immense cone which bears this
name ; but very remarkable ruins may be traced
thence all the way to the summit. Having
arrived at the base of the cone, we left our
horses by the side of the river, and ascended
to the Ruins. The first that we noticed w^as an
area, ninety-two yards long and fifty-four wide^
covered with fragments of terra cotta, and also
with pieces of antient glass, such as broken
lachrymatories, and other small vessels. On
the north side, part of a wall remained, by
which the area had been originally inclosed,
about fourteen feet in height. The work seemed
to be of the age of the Romans, from the baked
tiles, four inches thick, and the cement, used
an its construction. On the western extremity

164 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, of the area were considerable remains of bat^-,
whose stuccoed walls and terra-cotta conduits
were still entire in several places. An excava-
tion had been made by the Turks, on the south
side, for the stones of the foundation, to the
depth of twenty-two feet. By the appearance
of the foundation, the walls, on this side at
least, had been double, and admitted of a
passage between them. Above this area (per-
haps that of a temple), towards the north, were
tombs. We entered an arched vault, tliirteen
yards long, and five v/ide, and saw near to it
the remains of a bath, wanting only the roof.
Here lay some columns sixteen inches in dia-
meter, among pieces of broken amphorce, frag-
ments of marble, granite, basalt, blue chalcedony,,
and jasper. The following letters, of the only
Inscription we could find, on a brdken slab of
marble, afford no other information than that the
language in use here was Grecian; and eveu
|;his evidei]ce must not be disregarded :

, . ...... OS

AION

PIOY

We presently came to the cornice of a Doric
entablature, of such prodigious size, that our
artist, Mons'. Preaux, st^id he had seen nothing

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 105

like it in Athens. There were other Doric re- chap.

mains ; and the shaft of one Corinthian column, v_— ..^, 1

twenty-two inches in diameter, distinguished
from the Doric in having the edges of the
canelure flat instead of sharp. Higher upon
the hill we found the remains of another temple :
the area of this measured one hundred and forty
yards long, and forty-four wide. Here the
workmen had taken up about a hundred blocks
of stone and marble ; every one of which
measured five feet eleven inches in length, and
eiofhteen inches in thickness. We afterwards
found one of the angular corners of the founda-
tion of this temple; a bath, whose roof was yet
entire; and another fragment of the Doric
entablature before mentioned. The temples o( ^f^;;^f^f
Jupiter being all of the Doric order, it is very ^«i"'^'^-
probable, whatever may be the antiquity of
these works, that here was the situation of the
Temple and Altars of Idcean Jove, mentioned by
JIomer\ hj JEsc.hyhis'\ and by Plutarcfi\ Their
situation, with respect to Gargarus, agrees with
Homers description. According to JBschylus,
they were EN lAAIP.I nAmi; and the highest

(1) Iliad O. 47.

(2) ^schyl. in Niob. Vid. Slral,. Geo^r. lib. xii. p. TAO,

(3) Xla^ixiirai %' auTu ooo; ' Issj, to rrooTt^n Vt ixaXuro Taeya^m, oxou
Aio; xcu Miirgoj ©£i)y fica/ioi Tvyy^atouffit. Adhaeret ipsi mons Ide, qui
jirius vocabatur Gargarus, ubi Jovis et Matris Deorutn altaria occur-
riiirt." Plutarcb. de Fluv. p. 41. cd. Tolosa: ap, Bosc. 1615.

166 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, point of all the Id^an Chain extends itself into
the plain, in such a manner, that the hill at its
base, upon which these Ruins appear, is, in
fact, a part of Gargariis itself. The baths serve
to illustrate the history of the place, and there
are warm springs in the neighbourhood. The
original temple was therefore, probably, a very
antient fane of Jupiter Liberator, situate near to
the heights of Ida, on the site of which, in later
ages, these buildings were afterwards raised.

The most remarkable circumstance is now
to be related ; and it seems to refer us to super-
stitions connected with the veneration in which
the top of Gargarus was antiently held, as the
seat of the Immortal Gods'. A spacious

(1) Vibius Sequester, in his treatise De Montilus, speaks of Gar-
garus as the summit of Mount Ida : " Gargarus in Phrygid Ida
tnontis cacumen." And Maussacus, in his Notes upon Plutarch {De
Fluv.), who cites this passage, also observes, as a comment upon the
word Va^ya^ov, " Non Ida, sed ejus cacumen aut fa^tigium Gargarus
dictum fuit. Hesychius, Grammaticorum princeps, rd^ya^ev, ocx^ut^^iod
i^evs"l^>i;." The fact is, however, that an actual view of the country
affords the best comment upon the antient Geographers, who have
not clearly pointed out the nature of this part of Phrygia. The
district called Ida consists of a chain of different mountains, one of
which, separately considered, bore the name of Gargarus; and this
is higher than any of the rest. Freinshemius, in his Supplement to
Quintus Curtius, affirms, that places thick set Avith trees were
antiently called Id^ : " Nam condensa arboriltts loca Idas anti(/ui
dixere" Quint. Curt. Suppl. lib. ii. Freinsh.

In Mr.' fPTilpole's Journal, there is the following Note upon this
subject :

" Ida

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 16/

winding road, sixteen yards in breadth, leads chap.
from the remains of these temples to the top of
the Kushiinlu. All the way up may be noticed
the traces of former works; but upon the
summit, there is a small oblong area, six yards
in length, and two in breadth,, exhibiting
vestiges of the highest antiquity. The stones
forming the inclosure are as rude as those of
the walls of Tirynthus in Argolis; and the
whole is encircled by a grove of venerable
oaks, covering the top of the cone. The
entrance to this area is from the south : upon
the east and west, on the outside of the trees,
are stones, ranged like what we, in England,
call Druidical circles. From hence the view is
grand indeed. Immediately before the eye
is spread the whole of Gargarus; seeming.

" Ida is allowed, iu Herodotus, to tneao the summit Gargarus.
Now, from comparing the above passages with Strabo, p. 843. where
Gargara is said to be a town on Gargarus, a height of Ida, (see
Casaubon's note, there ;) and p. 872. where it is said to be a promon-
tory of the Adramyttian Gulph ; and consulting Hesychius, where
Gargarum is a height of Ida, and a city of the Trojan district near
Antandros, we get the following particulars relating to this summit of
Ida. It was near the coast, for it was near Antandros, which was on
the coast, in a recess of it (Strabo, p. 872.), and the town Gargara on
the coast was upon this mountain ; so that Xerxes, on passing by
Antandros, would pass by this mountain on his left ; and on coming
into the Iliean territory, would have some way to go before he reached
Troy; for Alexandria Troas was thirty-five miles from Antandros
(Anton. Itin.) ; and Troy was still farther."

JValpolca MS. Journah

163 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, from its immense size and the vastncss of Iti^

V— ,, 1 features, as if those who were stationed upon

this spot might converse with persons upon its
clear and snowy summit. A bold and sweeping
ridge descends from its top to the very base of
the cone of Kushunlu Tepe; and thip, as a stu-
pendous natural altary stands before the moun-
tain. Far below is seen tlie bed and valley
of the ScAMANDER, bearing a wesiivard courscj
from the place of its origin.

As the author descended, he found his com--^-
panions busied among the Ruins before de-
scribed. They had found a very beautiful
column, part of which they discovered buried in
the soil, and also a bronze medal of the city of
Corinth. Mons'. Preaux, the artist, had also
completed some very interesting views. The
night was passed at the foot of Gargarus, three
hours distant from this place, in one of the
Ev-mlr. most wretched villages oi Turkey, called Evgillar.
The arrival of strangers at first excited some
suspicion among its inhabitants, who regarded
the whole party as so many French spies, and
even proceeded to alarming menaces ; but a
Jirman being produced, and the object of the
journey explained, these simple and honest
mountaineers conducted themselves with hospi-
tality and kindness.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. IG9

On the following' morning, by day -break, the chap.
sky being" cloudless, we began to ascend ■
towards the summit of the mountain. During ti.rsuin^
the greatest part of the year, Gargarus, like ^Ir^Lu*.
JEtna, is characterized by a triple zone ; first,
a district of cultivated land ; afterwards, an
assemblage of forests ; and lastly, toward the
summit, a region of snow and ice. Passing
through the first on horseback, we ascended by
the banks of the Scamander. The scenery was
uncommonly fine ; it resembled the country in
the neighbourhood of Vietri, upon the Gidph of
Salerno, where Salvaior Rosa studied and painted
the savage and uncouth features of Nature, in
his great and noble style. During the first
hour, we passed the remains of some small Oratoricsof
Greek chapels, the oratories of ascetics, whom
the dark spirit of superstition, in the fourth
century of the Christian sera, conducted, from
the duties of civil society, to the wildest and
most untrodden solitudes. Secluded from
scenes of war and revolutionary fury, these
buildings remain nearly as they were left v/hen
the country became a part of the Turhhk
empire ; nor would it have been marvellous, if a
mouldering skeleton, at the foot of a forsaken
altar, had exhibited the remains of the latest
of its votaries. One of them, indeed, placed
above the roaring torrent, in a situation of

i/0 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

imcommon sublimity, was so entire, that a
painting of the Firgin, upon the stuccoed wall
of the eastern extremity, still preserved its
colours.

We now began to traverse the belt of forests,
and were enabled to get half-way through this
part of the ascent upon our horses : the under-
takinof afterw^ards became more tedious and
difficult, and we w^ere compelled to proceed on
foot. Half-congealed snow lying among the
rocks, and loose stones, rendered the way
dubious and slippery. In this region of
Gargarus there are many wild-boars, the traces
of whose ploughing were very fresh in many
places. Higher up, our guides shewed to us
marks left by the feet of tigers. They find also
leopards in these wilds ; and are obliged to take
their skins, when they are killed, to the Pasha
of the Dardanelles. The extensive survey we
should enjoy from the heights was occasionally
disclosed by partial openings in this scene of
forests. Already the whole Island of Tenedos
was in view, and all the Trojan Plain. Our
guides began to talk of the impossibility of
reaching the top of the mountain, and murmured
alarms of chasms and precipices in the glacier
above : at this we did not wonder, having often
been accustomed to such treatment in similar

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 171

enterprises. We expected to be deserted by chap.
them in the end, and it proved to be the case ; ■

although we were not prepared for what we
encountered afterwards. At length we cleared
the zone of forests : all above was icy, bleak,
and fearful. Our little party, by the number
of stragglers, was soon reduced to a small
band. Neither the Jewish interpreter, whom
we had brought from the Dardanelles, nor the
artist, would go a step farther. One of the
guides, however, with Mr. Cripps, and our
Greek servant, remained with the author. We
were reduced to the necessity of advancing
upon our hands and feet, neither of which made
the smallest impression upon the icy surface of
the snow. Soon afterwards we found ourselves
hanging over the brink of a precipice, so tre-
mendous, that the slightest slip of one of our
feet would, we perceived, afford a speedy
passage to eternity. Here our servant refused
to proceed, and the guide was only prevented
from following his example by brandy. The
author therefore prevailed on Mr. Cripps, much
against his inclination, to remain behind ; and,
by making holes for the hands and feet, advanced
with the guide. The mountain has four points
of eminence toward the summit, which rise
successively, one higher than the other. Our
progress led us to the third of these; the lowest,

VOL. III. M

i;2 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, except one ; and this point we attained in tliej
' / _' manner described. From hence the transition
to the base of the second point, over the frozen
snow along the ridge of the mountain, was made
without difficulty ; although the slope on each
side presented a frightful precipice of above a
thousand feet. At the base of the second point,
viewing the sheet of ice before him, the guide
positively refused to proceed ; and finding the
author determined to make a further trial, he
began to scream with all his might, breaking off
with his feet some nodules of the frozen snow,
in order to prove that the smallest fragment, if
once set in motion, would be carried into the
gulph on either side. The ascent was, to be
sure, somewhat critical, because it could only
be effected by a ladder of ice. The author cut
holes for his hands and feet, his face touching
the surface of the steep as he continued climbing.
The north wind blew with a degree of violence
that made the undertaking more difficult; for
his fingers, almost frozen, lost their feeling.
A tiger, when the snow was fresher, had left
an impression of his feet^; and these marks
proved a valuable guidance' in shewing the
direction to be pursued. In this manner the

(l) The author has only the authority of the natives for tlie resort
of tigers to this mountain, and the marks of their feet in the snow .

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 173

author reached the second point. Still a long
and laborious track was before him ; but the
greatest difficulty was over. He advanced with
eagerness over an aerial ridge, toward the
highest point of all, where no vestige of any-
living being could be discerned. Here the
ascent was easier than before; and in a few
minutes he stood upon the summit. What a view from
spectacle! It seemed as if all European Turkey, Pointof
and the whole of Asia Minor, were really tahi.
modelled before him on a vast surface of
glass. The great objects drew his attention
first ; afterwards he examined each particular
place with minute observation. The eye,
roaming to Constantinople, beheld all the Sea
of Marmora, the mountains of Priisa, with
Asiatic Olympus, and all the surrounding ter-
ritory : comprehending, in one survey, all
Propontis and the Hellespont, with the shores
of Thrace and Chersonesus, all the north of the
jEgean, Mount Athos, the Islands of Imhrus,
Samothrace, Lemnos, Tenedos, and all beyond,
even to Eithoea ; the entrance to the Gulph of
Smyrna, almost all Mijsia, and Bithynia, with
part of Lydia and Ionia. Looking down upon
Troas, it appeared spread as a lawn before
him. He distinctly saw the course of the
Scamander through the Trojan Plain to the
sea. This visible appearance of the river, like

M 2

174 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP. ^ silver thread, offered a clue to other objects.

^ "v ' He could now discern the Tomb of yEsyetes, and
even Bonarbashy. At the base of the mountain,
and immediately below his eyes, stood the
conical hill of Kushunlu Ttpe, upon whose sides
and summit are the Ruins before described.

Errors Notliiug cau bc better calculated to shew the

in the Geo- i i • i i r i

graphy of erroneous nature of all the maps published oi the
try. country, than the view from this place. The

j4dramyttinn Gulph is so close to the mountain,
that it may be said to skirt its base ; inclining
towards the north-east, and bearing so much
round upon the noj-th-eastern side, that the
extremity of it is concealed 'by that part of
the Idceaii Chain. Thus it would seem impos-
sible for any one to pass in a direct line from
the end of the Gulph to the Dardanelles, without
leaving not only the Chain of Ida, but even
Gargarus, upon the lej^t hand. This information
had before been obtained from the people of
the country; and if the ascent had been im-
practicable, the fact would have been tolerably
well ascertained. The satisfaction, however,j
of confirming the truth by actual observation,
was now obtained ; and the difficulties raised,
of reconciling the history of Xerxes march
from Jldramyttium. to Ahydus\ with the real

(1) Herodot. lib. vii. p. ,j30.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 175

geography of the country, were done away. chap.
The fact is, that an ordinary route of caravans, v »■ »
from Ydramitt (j^dramyttmm) to the Dardanelles,
now confirms the accuracy of the historian.
In the observance of this route, Gargarm, and
all the Chain of Ida towards Ledum, are upon
the left. A statement of this route, and the
several distances, have been subjoined in a
Note below". There is yet another singular
appearance from the summit of this mountain ;
and as this is pointedly alluded to by Homer ,
it seems to offer a strong reason for believing
that the poet had himself beheld it from the
same place. Looking towards Ledum, the tops ^ppear-

^ .... anceofthc

of all the Idcean Chain diminish in altitude by a i<i(eav.

. . Chain

regular gradation, so as to resemble a series towards
of steps, leading to Gargarus, as to the highest
point of the whole. Nothing can therefore
more forcibly illustrate the powers of Homer as
a painter, in the display he has given of the
country, and the fidelity with which he deli-
neates every feature in its geography, than his

Hours
(2) Ydramitt to Ballia — — 9

I>allia to Carab^ — — 7

Carab(5 to Bazar Keuy — 6

Bazar Keuy to KirisI^ — 8

Kirisl^ to the iDardanelles - 8

Total — — 38

170 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, description of the ascent of Juno kom Ledum

> — V ' to Gargarus ' ; by a series of natural eminences,

unattainable indeed by mortal tread, but pre-
senting, to the great conceptions of poetical
fancy, a scale adequate to the power and dignity
of superior beings.

Upon all the points of this mountain, former
adventurers have raised heaps of stones, as
marks of their enterprise^. These were now
nearly buried in snow. The author availed
himself of one of them, to ascertain the tem-
perature of the atmosphere, by placing his
thermometer in the shade. It was now mid-
day, and the sky was without a cloud. The
mercury soon fell to the freezing point, but it
did not sink lower during the time he remained.
Dangerous^ As hc dcsccnded, not a vestio-e of his ascent

situation ot ^ o

the Author, could bc disccmed ; and he unfortunately passed
without noticing the particular part of the steep
leading to the third point of the mountain,

CO Iliad S. 283.

(2) During' the heat of summer, the gjlacier on this mountain is
dissolved, and the ascent rendered therehy much more easy. The
Earl of Aberdeen, as he informed the author, afterwards succeeded in
visiting' the summit without difficulty, by choosing a more advanced
season of the year. The guides, however, thought proper to relate
that they never had been able to reach tVie highest point; perhaps to
avoid the trouble to which the attempt would expose them.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 177

whence he had gained the height. In this
manner he lost his way, and wandered about,
for three hours, over dreadful chasms and icy
precipices, in a state of painful anxiety ; until
at last, overcome witli excessive fatigue, thirst,
and cold, he sank down upon a bleak ridge,
and moistened his mouth by eating snow. To
his unexpected comfort, he experienced both
refreshment and warmth ; his benumbed fingers
recovered their sensation, and he again en-
deavoured to walk. Looking down towards
the south-west, he perceived, at an immense
depth below, the very guide who had deserted
him, endeavouring to climb towards the third
point of the mountain, but always returning
back, and at last giving up the attempt. Ex-
erting every effort, he succeeded in making
this man hear him; who then remained as a
mark, directing him to the ridge by which he
had ascended. When he came to this fearful
place, all his resolution forsook him. He could
not persuade himself that he had climbed an
icy steep so terrible; but presently perceived
the holes before made for his feet. Upon this,
striking his heels into the hardened snow, so
as to form a stay for his support, he sat down ;
and by slow degrees ventured off the declivity;
sliding sometimes for a yard or two, and then
stopping, so as not to acquire a greater velocity

178 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

ca^P- than he could check, by forcing in the staff of
« .V I his pipe* and one of his heels at the same
time. A shp to the right or to the left would
infallibly have carried him over a precipice on
either side; the ridge whereon he descended
resembling, in its form, the roof of a house.
The guide was now heard, bawling to him to
steer this way or that, as he inclined too much
either to one side or to the other, and acting
as a beacon for his course, until he reached
the spot where this man stood ; when, having
caught him in his arms, he cried out with great
joy, "^//« / ^//«/" There remained still much
to be done ; and this was happily got over.
About a mile lower down they found their
companions. Having in vain endeavoured to
kindle a fire, they had collected themselves
into a sheltered cavity near the higher bound-
ary of the second region of the mountain,
waiting with the utmost inquietude. Here a
flagon of brandy was soon emptied ; and the
guide, who had accompanied the author, proving
that old customs still existed in the country,
vowed to sacrifice a fat ram, for the events of
the day, as soon as he should reach the village.
It was two hours after dark before the party
arrived at Evgillar.

(1) The Turkish pipe is sometimes fashioned to serve also as a stout
walking staff. It is theu tipped with horn.

Vaults ihscoitrcil among tl,cB.u\u6 ./ Alexandria Troas.

CHAP. VI.

DISTRICT OF TROAS.

Second Excursion upon Gargarus — Greek Chapels — Source
of the Scamander — Journey to Alexandria Troas —
Bergas — ChemaU — Decomposition of Gi-anite — Stu-
pendous Column — Hot Baths — Forvi of the Sepulchre
called Soros — Alexandria Troas — Splendid Remains of
Public Balnea. — Other Vestiges of the City — Votive
Tablet to Drusus Caesar — Udjek — Tomb of ^Esyetes —
Erkessy — Interesting Inscription — S'lgenm—Antiquitfes

— Mount

180 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

— Mount Athos — Tombs mentioned ly Strabo — Reluni
to the Dardanelles — Summary of Observations made
in Troas.

CHAP ^~V

VI. (Jn the eleventh of March, having collected

Second our guides and horses as upon the preceding

fpoTcar- ^^Y' ^^ ^^^ o^^ again from Evgillar, and

gurus. proceeded up the mountain, to visit the

Cataract, v^hich constitutes the source of the

Mender, on the north-west side of Gargarus.

Ascending by the side of its clear and impetuous

torrent, we reached, in an hour and a half, the

lower boundary of the woody region of the

Greek mouutaiu. Hcrc we saw a more entire Chapel

Chapel. . ^

than either of those described in our excursion
during the preceding day, situate upon an
eminence above the river. Its form was
quadrangular, and oblong. The four walls were
yet standing, and part of the roof: this was
vaulted, and lined with painted stucco. The
altar also remained, in an arched recess of the
eastern extremity : upon the north side of it was
a small and low niche, containing a marble
table. In the arched recess was also a very
antient painting of the Virgin ; and below, upon
her left hand, the whole-length portrait of some
Saint, holding an open volume. The heads of
these figures were each encircled by a nimbus.
Upon the right-hand side of the Firgin there

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 181

had been a similar painting of another Saint ; chap.
but part of the stucco, upon which it had v.— v — '
been painted, no longer remained. The word
riAPGENON, written among other indistinct cha-
racters, appeared upon the wall. The dimen-
sions of this building were only sixteen feet
by eight. Its height was not quite twelve feet,
from the floor to the beginning of the vaulted
roof. Two small windows commanded a view
of the river, and a third was placed near the
altar. Its walls, only two feet four inches in
thickness, afforded, nevertheless, space for the
roots of two very large fir-trees, that were
actually growing upon them. As we advanced
along the banks of this river, towards its source,
we noticed appearances of similar ruins ; and
in some places, among rocks, or by the sides of
precipices, we observed the remains of several
habitations together ; as if the monks, who
retreated hither, had possessed considerable
settlements in the solitudes of the mountain.
Our ascent, as we drew near to the source of
the river, became steep and stony. Lofty
summits towered above us, in the greatest style
of u^ I pine grandeur; the torrent, in its rugged
bed below, foaming all the while upon our left.
Presently we entered one of the subhmest Source of
natural amphitheatres the eye ever beheld ; and manucr.
here our guides desired us to alight. The noise

182 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, of waters silenced every other sound. Huge
craggy rocks rose perpendicularly, to an im-
mense height ; whose sides and fissures, to the
very clouds, concealing their tops, w^ere covered
with pines ; growing in every possible direction,
among a variety of evergreen shrubs, wild sage,
hanging ivy, moss, and creepiilg herbage.
Enormous plane-trees waved their vast branches
above the torrent. As we approached its deep
gulph, we beheld several cascades, all of foam,
pouring impetuously from chasm.s in the naked
face of a perpendicular rock. It is said the
same magnificent cataract continues during all
seasons of the year, wholly unaffected by the
casualties of rain or of melting snow. That a
river so ennobled by antient history should at
the same time prove equally eminent in circum-
stances of natural dignity, is a circumstance
worthy of being related. Its origin is not like
the source of ordinary streams, obscure and
uncertain ; of doubtful locality and indeter-
minate character; ascertained with difficulty,
amongst various petty subdivisions, in swampy
places, or amidst insignificant rivulets, falling
from different parts of the same mountain, and
equally tributary : it bursts at once from the
dark womb of its parent, in all the greatness of
the divine origin assigned to it by Homer \ The

(I) Iliad O. 1. .

VI.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 183

early Christians, who retired or who fled from chap.
the haunts of society to the wildernesses of
Gargarus, seem to have been fully sensible
of the effect produced by grand objects, in
selecting, as the place of their abode, the
scenery near the source of the Scamander;
where the voice of Nature speaks in her most
awful tone ; where, amidst roaring waters,
waving forests, and broken precipices, the mind
of man becomes impressed, as by the influence
of a present Deity ^

The course of the river, after it thus emerges,
with very little variation, is nearly from east to
west. Its source is distant from Evgillar about
nine miles ; or, according to the mode of compu-
tation in the country, three hours : half this time
is spent in a gradual ascent from the village.
The rock whence it issues consists of micaceous
schistus, containing veins of soft marble. While
the Artist was employed in making drawings,
ill calculated to aflbrd any adequate ideas of the
grandeur of the scenery, we climbed the rocks,
to examine more closely the nature of the
chasms whence the torrent issues. Having

(2) PrcEsentiorem et conspicimus Deum,
Per invias rupes, fera per juja,
Clivosque praeniptos, sonantes
Inter aquas, nemoruinque iioctem!

VI.

184 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, reached these, we found, in front of them, a
beautiful natural bason, six or eight feet deep,
serving as a reservoir for the water in the first
moments of its emission, and before its fall.
It was so clear, that the minutest object might
be discerned at the bottom. The copious over-
flowing of this reservoir causes the appearance,
to a spectator below, of different cascades,
falling to the depth of about forty feet; but
there is only one source. Behind are the chasms
whence the water issues. We passed through
one of these into a cavern. Here the water
appeared rushing with great force beneath the
rock, towards the bason on the outside. It was
the coldest spring we had found in the country;
the mercury in the thermometer falling, in
two minutes, to 34", according to the scale
of Fahrenheit. When placed in the reservoir
immediately above the fall, where the water
was more exposed to the atmosphere, its tem-
perature was three degrees higher. The whole
rock about the source is covered with moss.
Close to the bason grew hazel and plane trees ;
above were oaks and pines ; all beyond was a
naked and tremendous precipice '.

(l) Upon GaroarDs we found a beautiful new species, both of
Crocus, and of Anemone. The first we have called Crocus caiididus,
and the second Anemone j'ormosu. They may be thus described :

Crocus

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 18o

About one hundred and fifty yards below the
source, is a warm spring, close to the bed of ^
the river, exactly of the same temperature as
those before described at Bonarhashy. We
returned from this expedition to Evgillar ; and
leaving the village, went again to Kiishunlu Tcpe,
to complete our survey of the Ruins there.
We were told that the Pasha of the Dardanelles
had built a mosque, the tomb of a Dervish, a
bridge of three arches, and all the new works
at Bei/ramitch, with marbles and other materials

Crocus /oliis lanceolato-lmearibus, Jlore hreinorihus stigmatibus anlhe-
ras subcpquantibus profundi.f.iime muUipartitis, radicum Iwiicd fihroso-
Costatd; corolla- lacinih elliplicis.

Anemone scapo apltyllo,fvliis crassisprofundisshnetripartitis sulrntundis
laciniis Jfabell/fonnibus subtrilobis acute dentatis ; folio superiore tripar-
tito, laciniis bis trijidis anguslis : involucro tripartita laciniis lanceolatis
inferiori unidentato; petalis lato-ovatis majusculis. We also observed
upon this mountain the /Anemone /Ipennina, Lichen articulatus, Fra-
garia stcrilis, Crocus aureus, and Crocus Vermis. At the source of the
Scamander gT&w " Mountaiu Shepherd's Purse," Thlaspi montanum;
" Woolly-leaved Marjoram," Origanum Onites ; " Bulbous Fumi-
tory," Fumaria bulbosa ; "The narrow-leaved Garden Anemone,"
Anemone coronaria; " Common Spleenwort," Asplenium Ceterach;
and a beautiful species of Ruscus, a shrub, hitherto unnoticed by any
author, with leaves broader and more oval than those of the Broad-
leaved Alexandrian Laurel, and the fructification covered by an oval
leaflet, as in the Ruscus Hypoglossum. To this we have given the name
of Ruscus Troadensis — Ruscus foliis lanceolafo-ovalibun, supra Jlor for is,
gubfoliolo. The leaves are about two inches broad, and from three,
to three and a half, in length : the lowermost grow in whorls, the
uppermost alternate ; the leaflet covering the fructification is nearly
half an inch broad, and about three fourths of an inch long : the fruit
uf the size of a small cherry. We did not see the flowers.

Immediately above the source ^ew the " Purple-blossomed Alys-
son," Alyssuvi delto'cdeum.

CHAP.
VI.

186 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, from this place. As we passed through this
^-' ^ last town, a Turii offered for sale, a sardonyx,
exhibiting three distinct layers qf brown and of
white chalcedony : upon the upper layer was
an intaglio, representing the well-known figure
oi Mercury with the purse ; a subject extremely
common upon gems found in Constantinople^.
It was well executed, but the price exorbitant,
therefore we declined the purchase. We here
visited the Intendant of the Agha, and travelled
the same day as far as Turhnanlt, where we
passed another night with the hospitable owner
of the mansion who entertained us so well upon
a former occasion.

From Turhmanle we returned by the way of

^ne ; and thence, intending to visit Alexandria

Ber^as. "Troas, took thc road to Bergas^, distant two

hours from jEne, where we halted for the night.

By the public fountains along this route, and

(1) The peculiar locality of certain mythological subjects, as repre-
sented upon the gems oi Antient Greece, has not perhaps been noticed ;
yet the subjects of the gems are almost as local as those upon the medals
of the country. Figures and symbols of Ceres are found in Cyprus ;
in Athens, the triple bust of Socrates, Alciblades, and the Sicilian
\>hysic\^.\\ Raucondas; in Constantinople, representations of a Cres-
cent with one or three stars, of Mercury with the jmrse, heads or
whole lengths of Esculapius, Apollo with the Chariot of the Sun; in
Alexandria and other parts of Egypt, Scarabm, with various hiero-
glyphic figures, &c.

(2) Ui^y^i.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 187

where stone has been used in building, may be chap.
seen the capitals or shafts of columns, and other ^- >
fragments from antient ruins. The next morning,
March the 14th, we passed through Chemalc, cuemai^.
distant one hour from Bergas. Chemale is full
of antiquities ^ In the coemetery we copied
several Inscriptions ; but they are too imperfect
for insertion. Some granite columns were lying Decompo.
about, whose surfaces exhibited a very advanced uruniu.
state of decomposition. We had observed similar
appearances dXjEne; proving that the jgranzVe had
been exposed to the action of the atmosphere
during a very long period ; and also confirming
a fact of importance ; namely, that the durabi-
lity of substances employed for purposes of
sculpture and architecture, is not proportioned
to their hardness. Marble, which is much softer
than granite, is capable of resisting longer the
combined attacks of air and moisture. The
cause of decomposition in granite columns cannot
have originated in their interment; since nothing
tends more to preserve granite than exclusion
from external air. Of this we had satisfactory
evidence, when our troops in Egypt subverted
the cumbent obelisk near Alexandria. The
hieroglyphical sculpture, upon the side which had

(.3) Dr. Chandler believed this place to have been the Coloncr of the
Antients. See " Travels in /isia Minor," p. 34.

188 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

otHAP. been buried in the soil, appeared in the highest
. state of preservation; but the surface, so long
exposed to the atmosphere, was considerably
decomposed. Of all natural substances used
by antient artists, Parian marble, when without
veins, and therefore free from extraneous bodies,
seems to have best resisted the various attacks
made upon Grecian sculpture. It is found
unaltered, when granite, and even porphyry,
coeval as to their artificial state, have sutfered
decomposition. Terra cotta is yet more durable
than marble. Works executed in baked clay
have been preserved during a period of near
three thousand years, as fresh as when they
issued from the hands of the artificer; and
when any nation is desirous of transmitting a
lasting memorial to posterity, it cannot employ
a better substance for this purpose.

Stupendous ^f^ IcaviuLr CkeniaU, in the road leading to

Column. o ' o

a place called Lydia Hamam, distant about three
quarters of an hour, our Greek servant, who
was before us on horseback, and had wandered
a,mong some thickets, returned, laughing im-
moderately, and saying, *' As you are pleased
with the sight of columns, here is one large
enough to gratify your utmost expectations."
He then led us to a short distance from the
road, where, concealed among trees, lay the

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 189

largest granite pillar in the world, excepting the chap.
famous Column of Alexandria in Egypt, which it ' y. v
much resembles. It is of the same substance,
and it has the same form : its astonishing length,
as a mere shaft (without base, or capital) of one
entire stone, equalled thirty-seven feet eight
inches, and it measured five feet three inches in
diameter \ It may perhaps serve to throw some
light upon the origin of the Egyptian Pillar. Its
situation is upon a hill above Alexandria Troas,
A paved road led from the city, to the place
where it either stood, or was to have been
erected. We have therefore the instances of
two cities, both built by Generals of Alexander
THE Great, in consequence of his orders; and
each city having a pillar of this kind, upon an
eminence, outside of its walls. These pillars
may have served to support statues in honour
of the founder of those cities ; or they may have
been intended for sepulchral Stelcp, in memory
of illustrious persons. The author's subsequent
observations upon the Alexandrian Column
rather induced the latter of these two opinions.

The hot baths, called Lydia Hamam, have Hot Baths,
been so ably described by Dr. Chandler'', that

(l) Its diameter is five feet three inches at the base ; and four feet
five inches at the summit.

VOL. III. N

190 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, it is not necessary to detain the Reader with

VI. "^

>■ -, any new observations upon them. The water
has the colour of whey ; it is impregnated with
iron, and with salt ; and its temperature, when
ascertained deep in the crevices whence it
issues, equals 142° o^ Fahrenheit. These baths
are much resorted to, for the cure of rheumatism,
leprosy, and every cutaneous disorder.

Formoftiie JournevinQ: hence towards Alexandria Troas,

Sepulcliie ^ o

caikd we observed, upon a granite Soros, part of an
Inscription, of some importance in determining
the particular nature of the sort of sepulchre
whereon it was inscribed ; namely, one of those
huge stone sepulchres used, in all parts of
Turkey, as cisterns, beneath the public foun-
tains'. The Romans began to call them Sar-
cophagi about the time of Pliny, owing to a
pecuhar kind of stone used in their construction,
found at Assos upon the Adramyttian Gulph, and
supposed to have the property of hastening the
decomposition of the human body. St. Augustine

(l) Sandys mistook them for antient cisterns. In his description
of the Ruins of Alexandria Troas, (See Relation of a Journey, &c.
p. 24.) he describes them as " ample cisternesfor the receit of raine,"
the city " being seated on a sandie soile, and altogether destitute of
fountains." They generally consist of two immense masses of stone ;
one of which, being hollowed, served as the coffin, and the other as
its operculum. They vary considerably in their dimensions. That to
which allusion is here made, was nearly seven feet long, and above
three feet wide ; and this is the common size.

DISTRICT OF TROA.S. 191

relates, that the Greek "appellation of this kind chap.
of tomb was Soros^: his remark is forcJl)ly - _ / *
illustrated by this Inscription, although so small
a part of it be now remaining :

ATPHAI022nTHPE©HKETHN20P0NEATTnKAI . . . . I

" AURELIUS SOTEH CONSTRUCTED THIS SOROS FOR HIMSELF AND"

Other instances, of the same nature, occur in
the account given of our subsequent Travels,
where the legend is more entire.

'O'

The remains of Alexandria Troas have Alexandria
long served as a kind of quarry, whither not
only Turks, but also their predecessors, during
several centuries, have repaired, whenever they
required either materials for ornamental archi-
tecture, or stones for the common purposes of
building. Long before the extinction of the
Greek empire, the magnificent buildings of this
city began to contribute the monuments of its
antient splendour towards the public structures
of Constantinople; and, at present, there is
scarcely a mosque in the country that does not
bear testimony to its dilapidation, by some
costly token of jasper, marble, porphyry, or
granite, derived from this wealthy magazine.

(2) " Quia enlm area in qua mortuus jioiiitur, quod omnes jam
XAPKOtUArON vocant, 20P02 dicitur Grasce." St. August, de CiiUat«
Dei, 1. xviii. c. 5. See also Julius Pollux, X. 150

N 2

192

CHAP.
VI.

Splendid
Remains
of PubUc
Balne^b.

DISTRICT OF TROAS.

After all that has been removed, it is truly
wonderful so much should remain. The ruins
of the place, although confused, are yet consi-
derable. The first object, appearing in the
approach towards the city from Chemale, is the
Aqueduct of Herodes Atticus, formed of enormous
masses of hewn stone. The walls of the city
exhibit the same colossal style of masonry.
Part of one of the gates yet remains, on the
eastern side, whose ruins have been mistaken
for those of a temple : it consists of two round
towers, with square basements, supporting
pedestals for statues. Immediately after passing
this entrance, and entering within the district
once occupied by the city, we observed the
ruins of baths, with the reticulated work of the
Romans upon the stucco of the walls. Broken
marble Soroi lie about, of such prodigious size,
that their fragments seem like rocks among the
Valani oaks now covering the soil. But in all
that exists of this devoted city, there is nothing
so conspicuous as the edifice vulgarly termed
by mariners The Palace of Priam; from an
erroneous notion, prevalent in the writings of
early travellers, that Alexandria Troas was the
Ilium of Homer \ This building may be seen

(l) Belon, De La Falle, Lithgow, and others, fell iuto this strange
mistake. It is an error, however, which prevailed hefore they lived-
Lithgow caused his own portrait to be represented in the midst of

the

VI.

: DISTRICT OF TROAS. I93

from a considerable distance at sea. It has three chap.
noble arches in front, and behind these there
are many other : the stones are placed together
without any cement. Large masses of sculptured
marble, being the remains of a cornice, appear
above and on each side of the arches in front.
The whole structure was once coated over with
marble, or with plates of metal : and holes for
the metal fastenings may yet be seen over all
the work. Of the three front arches, the center
arch measured forty-eight feet wide at the base,
and each of the other twenty-one. The stones
in this part of the work were five feet ten inches
long, and three feet five inches thick. Behind
the center arch there is a square court, having
four other arches ; one on each side. A noble
flight of steps conducted to the center arch in
front : and upon each side of this there was a
column of the prodigious diameter of eight feet :
the marks of their bases are still visible upon
the two pedestals. Those columns were not of
entire blocks of stone ; for we saw their dis-
jointed parts among the ruins below the flight
of steps. The back part of the building, and
the two sides, were surrounded by walls sup-
ported upon open arches : twelve of these arches
remain on the northern side, almost entire. The

the Ruins of Alexandria Troas, as a frontispiece to his work ; calling
them the Ruins of Ilium, with the Tombs of Priam and Hecuha. See
Nineteen Years' Travels, ^'c. by JV. LUhgoiv. 4to. Lond, J 6 14.

194 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

front of the building faces the west: behind,
that is to say, upon the eastern side, were three
magnificent arched portals. The walls here, on
each side of the center arch, were supported
upon a vault containing six arches, which yet
remain entire. From this description, it is
evident that a plan of the building might be
delineated, exhibiting its original form. No
very accurate representation has yet been
engraved of any part of it. We were inclined to
believe, with Chevalier, that it was intended for
haths, as a grand termination of the Aqueduct of
Herodes Atticus\ The opinions of Pococ^^e and
Chandler, that it was a Gymnasium for the
instruction of youth, are thereby rather con-
firmed than confuted. The balnea of the Antients,
particularly among the Romans, were often col-
leges of science and martial exercise : such
were the structures erected by Diocletian and
by Caracalla; and by the Emperor Adrian,
according to Pausanias, as an ornament to the
city oi Corinth"".

Other Ves
ti";es of the

On the south side of this building, and very
City. near to it, we found the remains of a circular
edifice, resembling those structures at Baii^, in
Campania, now called temples, but primarily
baths. Half of this edifice remained in an entire

(1) Plain of Troy, p. 10, (2) Pausan. in Corinth, c, 3.

DISTRICT OF TROAS; 105

state. It had a small corridor round the base
of the dome with which it was originally covered.
Farther on, towards the sea, to the south-west,
we found the ruin of a small oblong temple,
and afterwards observed another of considerable
size, whose foundations remain unbroken. Then,
turning towards the west, we came to the
foundation of a very large building, but could
comprehend nothing of its former history. At
present it consists only of a series of vaults and
spacious subterranean chambers, one beneath
another, serving as sheds for tenders and herds
of goats \ Again pursuing a south-western
course, we arrived at the immense Theatre of
the city, still in a state of considerable per-
fection. The semicircular range of seats is
vaulted at either extremity : the diameter, taken
from one side to the other, where the vaults
remain, measured two hundred and fifty- two
feet. Like almost every Grecian theatre, it was
constructed by making the slope of the hill itself
subservient to the sweep necessary for accom-
modating spectators. It commands a noble
view of the sea, with the whole Island of Tenedos
as the principal object immediately in front.
Lower down, towards the port, were marble
Soroi, and other antiquities of less importance.
The few Inscriptions discovered here by

(3) See the Vignette to this Chapter.

196 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

Chandler, and by others, have been removed ;
and it is not necessary to introduce what has
already been pubhshed : but perhaps, even in
this brief description of the confused and deso-
lated ruins which denote the site of Alexandria
Troas, it has not been altogether possible to
avoid a repetition of observations made by pre-
ceding travellers ^

We arrived again at Bergas, and, taking a
northern route, turned towards Udjek, with an
intention of visiting the To7nb of jEsyetes. As
we left the village, we saw, near an old coeme-
tery, a large square slab of Parian marble,
lying upon the soil, and broken in two pieces.

(1) " From Bournabashi, I set off, April 8, 1806, to a village called
£istambol, for the purpose of examining the ruins of Alexandria Troas.
I procured a small hut for myself and servants ; and leaving the baggage
there, rode to Alexandria, at the distance of an hour. The Ruins there ;
the different fragments of marble from Paros, and Marmora ; tlie blocks
of granite ; all attest the former magnificence of this city. The Theatre
faced the sea, as seems to have been the custom whenever the situation
allowed it. It is a mile from the shore; and commands a view of Tene-
dos, and the islands adjacent. To the north of this is a spacious oblong
building, constructed with stone, and its work strong and massive. A
herd of goats, guarded by some large dogs, who much molested the
guides, was feeding by this place. The black felt tents of some wandering
Turcomans were pitched at a small distance. A little to the east of the
above building are the great ruins of the Baths, of Roman work : in the
■wall are some of the earthen pijies, through which tlie water %\as conveyed.
To llic north-west of these are granite columns, lying on the ground;
one of which measured twenty-seven feet in length, and in diameter more
than four feet. By the Port were columns of still greater dimensions. To
the north-east of the Baths are many sarcophagi of stone; some of the
lids of which resemble those represented in the drawings of the Necropolis

DISTRICT OF TIIOAS. 197

Owing to its form, we suspected that some chap.
Inscription might be concealed upon its lower >. y;
surface, and this proved to be the case. We
had no sooner raised the two fragments, than
there appeared the highly interesting tribute to VoUve
the memory of Drusus Ccesar, son of Germanicus Dmsus
and Agrippina, which is now in the Vestibule of

of Telmessus. Mottraye, when on the Spot, caused one of these tombs to
be opened; and found in it two sculls, which crumbled to dust on being
touched. The Antients used to deposit in them different persons of the
same family, as may be seen by inscriptions found on them. I measured
a sarcophagus here, eleven feet in length, and six in breadth. But I did
not observe any splendid monuments, of this kind, to be compared with
those which I obser\ed at Aphrodisias, wherc^u-e many sarcophagi, orna-
mented with bas-reliefs, and figures, in excellent preser\'ation. The anti-
rfuities of this place (now called Gcyra, a few days' distance to the south-
east of Smyrna), which I visited in December 1805, have not been ex-
amined as tliey merit ; and would, from their great magnificence and
quantity, fully repay the pains and trouble of any one who would ex-
plore them.

" All the ground within the walls of Alexandria is covered with
the valani f/SaXavJ), producing the valanlda, the cup of which i*
used for dyeing, by the Orientals, and some nations ot Europe. An
English vessel was taking in a load of this, when I passed by, some
months after. A beautiful slope of two miles, covered with this tree,
anil small bushes, among which are lying pieces of marble, and re-
mains of the antieut city, carries you to the sea. Here, on the shore,
is an oblong hollow spot, artificially formed, which was perhaps con-
nected with the Port ; and this last had a canal about two hundred
yards in length, which joined it to the sea. The communication of
the canal on one side with the sea, and on the other with the circular
basin which formed the Port, explains well this passage of Vitruvius :
* Fossis ductis,fit aqu^ exitus ad littus : et ex man tempestatibus aucto
in paludes redundantia motwnibus excitatur.' Lib, i. c. 4.

" On a small rise of ground, without the walls of the town to the
east, is a hot spring of mineral water, which supplies two basins at a
small distance ; one of which 1 found extremely warm. The people

198 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP, the University Library at Cambridge^. Arriving

^_ -~-^ afterwards at the village of Udjek, distant two

hours from Bergas, we copied another Inscription

from a smaller piece of marble : this we left in

the country. The legend is as follows :

SPLENDIDISSIMVS

POPVLVS

COL • AVG-TROADENS

AVRELIVM- lOBACCHVM

CVRATOREM

. . . IDIOMENOGEN

Tomb of We then proceeded to Udjek Tipe, or the
^iyetes. '^^^q^^q Tumuliis of JEsyetcs, whose situation
precisely agrees with the account given of that
monument by Straho. It is of all others the
spot most remarkably adapted for viewing the
Plain of Troy, and it is visible in almost all parts

in the neighbourbood come there to obtain relief for different diseases,
Pococke says, some have thought this to be Larissa. This conjecture,
I think, is very much strengthened by a reference which I find
Athena!us makes, among other hot waters, to those at Troic Larissa.
See lib. ii. c. 5. •

" Near the hot baths may be seen specimens of the netted building
{opus reticulatitm, as Vitruvius calls it) of the antient Alexandrians, or
Larisseans. A small rivulet runs in the plain below.

*' I returned to Kistambol, with the remains of a lamb, which were
to serve for our supper, and which the guide had bought at Alexandria
for the value of three shillings, English. While 1 examined the
Ruins, it was killed, skinned, and roasted on the spot by a large wood
fire." Walpole's MS. Journal.

(l) See an account of it in a description of the " Greek Marbles,"
&c. No. XXIII. p. 45. published at Cambridge in 1809.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 199

of Troas. From its top may be traced the ^^;^^-
course of the Scamander; the whole chain of Ida, ^ y '
stretching towards Lectwn'; the snowy heights
of Gargarus ; and all the shores of the Hellespont
near the mouth of the river, with Sigeum, and
the other tumuli upon the coast. From this
tumulus we descended once more into the Plaiii
of Troy, and came in half an hour to a village
called Erhessy. In the street of this village Erkcsa;/,
there is a marble Soros, quite entire. This was

(2) Mr. /?«^o/e crossed the Idermi Chain, as appears by the following
extract from his Journal, relating to an cxcvirsion he made from
Alexandria Troas to the Adramyltian Gulph.

" From the village of Kistambol, where on a stone sarcophagus, by
the hut in which 1 lived, 'were the letters POSTVMIA VENEREA,
I set off to cross the part of Ida which separated the road from the
Adramyttian Gulph. This ridge of mountains is called, by Strabo,
« atro To~J hix,rou pa^is avanivouffo, ■z^o; rhv "iSsjv. p. 871' In au
hour's time I reached Yalagick, where, on a stone by a fountain,
I read the words i^ignifer, Imperator, Decurioni, well cut. The rocks
near the road are of granite. I continued my route S.E. and E.S.E.
for seven hours, passing small streams running down from the moun-
tains : by the sides grew tiie N'crium (which Hasselquist asserts is the
tree referred to by David, Psalm i. 3.^ and the Plane. The Terebin-
thus grew above, on the rocks. 1 then reached a hamlet, Sunovassi,
encircled by mountains : here we procured a shed for our party to pass
the night, which consisted of myself, a servant, a guide, and a black
soldier who was to accompany me to Adramyttium. We were able to
find some bread, which the Turks eat unleavened ; some pelmez, and
some rice. The inhabitants of the village, who were Turks, shewed no
disposition to annoy us, nor any impertinent curiosity, although in that
recess of Ida they could see but few European travellers. Corn, olives,
cotton, and maize, the ears of which are eaten roasted, were the produce
of their fields. From the mountain side they got fir, and the wood of the
arbutus, to supply their hearths. At half past eight the next morning
I left Sunovassi ; at nine, I began to ascend Dikili-Dah, part of Ida.

Nothing

200 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

brought from Alexaiidria Troas, and it is now-
used as a public cistern. It is of one piece of
stone, seven feet in length, three feet and a half
wide, and, without including the operculum, rather
more than three feet in depth. The following

Interesting • • >-, 7 i • i

inscrip. Inscription upon it, m Greek characters, is beauti-
fully cut, and in a very perfect state. It serves
to confirm what the author lately stated con-
cerning the nature of the Grecian, and Egyptimi,
Soros. In the chamber of the great Pyramid of
Cheops there is a conditory of granite of the same
form and size ; and another, once the Soros of
Alexcmder the Great, mentioned by Herodian, is
now in the British Museum.

Nothing could exceed the beautiful scenery which I beheld on all sides,
as 1 continued my ride, occasionally casting my eye downwards upon
forests of pines, and on villages hanging on the side or placed at the
feet of the mountains. On reaching the summit, the Sea and Island of
Mitylene presented themselves ; and in three hours' time, from the
moment of ascending, I reached the shore, along which I continued to
ride till a quarter before four, when I turned up to the N.E. On the
sea side were pieces of fir, cut down from Ida, for ship building. At
half past four I arrived at Avgilar, a small village, w here I slept.
There is a Greek Inscription placed sideways in the outer wall of the
Mosque. The next day, at the distance of an hour and a half, I passed
some warm baths, which I was not able to examine, as some Turkish
women were there bathing. These may be the hot waters to which
Galen says an invalid, who lived not far from Pergamus, was sent, ^De
Sim. Med.)). 296. v. 13.) Ixitpavri Koc/Ava>. In two hours and a half from
the baths is Adramyttium, now called Edremiti distant more than
an hour from the sea. From that place, going first west, and then
south-west, I came to Chemar, in two hours. From Chemar, passing
Karagatch, you reach in seven hours Aiasniata, distant two miles from
the sea." Wulpolc's AIS. Journal.

DISTRICT OF TROAS.

201

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202 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP. The characters of this Inscriptioji cover one
V. .y-i-./ side of the Soros at Erkessi/, precisely as the
hieroglyphical characters cover those of the
^Alexandrian. Both one and the other have been
used by the moderns as cisterns; and it may rea-
sonably be presumed, the repugnance of a very
few of our Englisli antiquaries, to admit that
such cisterns were originally designed as recep-
tacles for the dead, will, in the view of satisfac-
tory evidence, be done away.

Sigmni. We were one hour and a quarter going from

Erkessy to Sigeum, or, as it is now called, Yeny
Cheyr. The promontory on which the present
village is situate bears the name of Cape Janis-
sary. Its inhabitants are all Greeks, living with
great cleanliness in their little cottages, and
retaining the manners of their forefathers, in

Antfqui- their hospitality to strangers. Many valuable
antiquities have, at difterent times, been disco-
vered here by the inhabitants. They brought
to us an extremely rare bronze medal of Sigeum ;
on this the letters CITE, with the square Sigma,
were very perfect. The stone with the famous
Sigean Inscription had been removed, a short time
before, by the British ambassador ; and more
recently a marble had been found at Koumkeuy,
a village in the neighbourhood, with an inscrip-
tion of the age of the Seleucidcr: this they

lies.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 203

permitted us to copy. It is, perhaps, nearly chap.
as antient as the well-known Inscription
now placed in the vestibule of the Library of
Trinity College, Cambridge, which was brought
from Sigeian by Edward Worthy Montague ;
although, in the uncertainty which involves the
series of the Syrian kings, it be impossible to
determine its precise date. Antiochus, in the
year 196 a.c. went into the Thracian Cher so-
jiesus, to establish a kingdom there and in the
neighbouring country, for Seleucus, his second
son \ It is, however, difficult to discover any
particular incident, in the history of the Seleu-
cidcv, alluded to by the first part of the inscription.
Antiochus was wounded in some battle ; and
Metrodorus probably afforded him assistance.
The purport of the inscription is not very clear,
until we arrive at the eighth line : we there see
that '^Metrodorus of AmphipoUs, the son of Timo-
cles, is praised hy the senate and people, for his
virtue and good-ivill towards the kings Antiochus and
Seleucus, and the people : he is deemed a benefactor
to the state ; is to have access to the senate ; and to
be inscribed into the tribe and fraternity to which he
may luish to belong.'' No attempt, except in a
letter or two, has been made towards the resto-
ration of the first part of the Inscription; the

(l) Z/iv. lib. xxxiii. Appian.ixx Syriacis, Prideaux, Part 2.

204 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

characters are given as they appeared upon the
marble throughout the whole; and the learned
reader will perceive where the words require
correction.

lOZIAHOBAZIAEYZANTIOXOZ

AAKENOTETPAYMATIAZrENOMENOr

ENTHIMAXHIIMTONTPAXHAON

.. PAPEYOIXHYPOMHTPOAIIPOYTOY

ATP0YAINAYN02:E<1)EZAAKEN

. EPIAYTOYKAIMEAEArPOZOZTI . ..

THrOSPPOOPHMENOZTO . . . ZT. .

nZZYM<l>EPONAEAOX0AITHIBOYAHI

KAITniAHMniEPAINESAIMEN

MHTPOAr2PONTIMOKAEOYZAMl

POAITHNAPETHZENEKENKAI

EYNOIAZTHSEIZTOYZBAZIAEAZ

ANTIOXONKAIZEAEYKONKAI . . . N

AHMONEINAIAE . . TONKAI

ONKAIEYEPrETHNTHZPOAEnZ
/^filAOZOAIAAYTniKAinOAITEIAN
AITIK . NZINKAIEOAONEPITHN
BOYAHNKAITONAHMONPPnTUN
METATAIEIAZHEINAIAAYXniKAl
EIZ<l>YAHNKAI<l>PATPIANHNANBOY
AHTAIE

Chandler, who has written an interesting account
of the antiquities of Sigeum, says that the ^the-
nceum, or Temple of Minerva, stood upon the

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 205

brow of the high and steep hill on which the ^^^^'
church belonging to the present village is now ' — /— ^
situate'. From the scattered marbles, described
by him as its remains, we obtained a small bas-
relief, now in the Collection at Cambridge, repre-
senting two persons, one of whom is in the
military garb of the Antients, and the other in
-the civic habit, addressing a Figure of Mmen;a ".
Over the head of the Goddess is the word
AOHNA.

Homer does not mention either the Promontory
of Sigeum or of Rhceteum : indeed, the latter can
hardly be called a promontory. These names
rather referred to cities, which were built after
the time of Homer. The tivo promontories, one on
either side of the Grecian fleet, as it was stationed
to the east of the Mouth of the Scamander, were
two necks of land, whose distance might well
admit of the possibility of Agamemnon s voice,
when he called from the centremost ship, being
heard to the two extremities '. The objection there-
fore, which, with reference to this circumstance,
was urged against the distance of Sigeum from
Rhoeteum, is superseded. Whenever the account
given by an antient author is irreconcileable with

(1) Travels in Asia Minor.

(2) See "Greek Marbles," No.XXIX. p. 51. (3) Iliad O. 222.
VOX-. III. O

20f) DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP. >our preconceived and imperfect notions of the
J geography of a country, we are too apt, either
to doubt the truth of the description, or to warp
the text so as to accommodate an interpretation
the measure of our own ignorance. This has
given rise to almost all the scepticism concern-
ing Homer y and has also characterized the com-
mentaries upon other authors. When, for example,
j^lschylus relates the instruction given to lo, for
her march from Scythia, the river he so happily
designates by the title of Hybristes\ owing to
its great rapidity, and which is evidently the
Kuban'^, has puzzled his Editors, who have
endeavoured to prove it to have been the Don^
the Dniepery or even the Danube, with about as
much reason as if they had supposed it to be
the Rhine or the Thames. An actual survey of
the district of Caucasus, and of the course of the
rivers, would have removed every difficulty,
and proved the peculiar accura'^y with which
the Poet attended, in this instance, to the fea-
tures of Nature. When indeed he conducts
his heifer " down the Indus to the Cataracts of

(1) ^schi/liis in Prometh. Vmct . 742. p. 56. ed. C. J. Llomfield,
Cantab. 181{). " ' T f:>^i(rTns . Dubitatur num in hoc loco /Eschijlus Araxem

,fluvmm innuat, vel htru7n, vel Taiiaim, vel Alazona, vel Boi tjsthenetn,
quodsentit Butkrvs, vel denique fluviumcni nomeu Hylrisla, &c. &c."
Ibid, iu Glossar. p. 144.

(2) Tlie Hypanis of D'Auville, aud yurdamis of some authors.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 207

the iV//<?," he is supposed to rave in good earnest; cHAr.
and " to have reference to worse documents '

than modern maps;" because the Indus of
j^schylus is immediately confounded with the
Indian river of that name, to which it was impos-
sible he could refer. India was unknown to
the Greel's until the age of Alexander ; and the
inhabitants of Ethiopia were considered as
Indians by the Romans, so late as the time of
Augustus, Straho expressly tells us, that
Homer was ignorant of India ^ j^scliylus, who
died a full century before Alexander was born,
had no means of being better informed respect-
ing that country ; but there existed other rivers
with the same appellation. Pliny mentions an
Indus, nearly opposite to the Nile, in Asia
Minor\ Experience may at last teach us to
ascertain, at least, the geography of Homer and
of jEschylus, before we venture to dispute their
accuracy.

In the evenmo' of our arrival at Si^eum, we had ^lomu

~ ° Athos,

proof of the possible extent of vision in the

(3) Thy fj^iv oZ-/'lvlix.ya oIk oToiv''Oi/.r,c^i;. Strab. Geog. lib. i. p. 56. Ed.
Oxon.

(4) " Aranis Indus in Cybirataruin jugis ortus, recipit lx pereunes
fluvios, torrentes veto amplius centum." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. v. c. 28,
L. Bat. 1635. There is, however, a diflferent reading noticed in this edi-
tion ; Ninus being substituted for Indus in some copies : " Alii Ninus
€x Alexand. et Hermol." Vid. Var. Lectiones, p.GM. Not, IT.

O 2

208 DISTRICT OF TROA^S.

^^^^^'- clear atmosphere of this country, which would
**— y — -' hardly be credited in any other. Looking
towards the Archipelago, we plainly discerned
Mount Athos, called by the peasants, who
were with us, Agionoros\ the Holy Mountain;
its triple summit appearing so distinctly to the
eye, that we were enabled to make a sketch of
it. At the same time, it seemed that its
relative position, as placed in all our maps,
with respect to Sigeum, is too far towards the
north. The distance at which we viewed it
could not be less than a hundred English miles :
according to D'AnviUe, it is about thirty leagues
from shore to shore, and the summit of the
mountain is at some distance from the coast.
Tombs ^^Q visited the two antient Tumuli, called the

mentioned

by strabo. ToTubs of AchUks and Patroclus. They are to
the north-east of the village. A third was
discovered by Sir TV. GelP, near the bridge for
passing the Mender; so that the three Tumuli
mentioned by Strabo^ are yet entire. He
describes them as the monuments* of Achilles,

(1) " Attamen ^tos mons Macedoniae Hugmmros proprio nomine
vocatur." Mabillon. Acta Sanctor. (hd. Bcnedicti, torn. IV. p. 374.
Not. 6. L. Pur. 1672.

(2) It now serves as a Turkish coemetery. See the Engraving made
from Sir TV. Cell's beautiful drawing of it, Plate XVI. Topography
of Troy, p. 45.

(3) Strab. Geogr. lib. xiii. p. 859. ed. Ox.

(4) MnJftaTa.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 209

Patroclus, and Antiochus. So much has been chap.
published concerning them, that it will not be ' ■<- *
necessary to add much to, and still less to
repeat, what has been said before. The two
nearest to Sigeum are conspicuous objects in
the view 'of persons passing the Hellespont^',
and, in their form, they are similar to others
described in the preceding part of this
work. It is remarkable, that none of the
authors who have written upon the subject,
have noticed Strahd's allusion to three Tombs.
The largest was opened by order of Monsieur
de Choiseul. We were acquainted with the Jeiv
employed as agent in the undertaking. He
appeared to be an honest and a respectable man ;
but we rather doubted the truth of the story
relating to the discovery of the antiquities sent
to his employer, as having been found in this
tomb. There was no confidential person ap-
pointed to superintend the work'. It was
performed by night, with scarcely any witness
of the transaction. In the* zeal to gratify his
patron, and to prevent the disappointment likely
to ensue from an expenditure of money to no
purpose, it is at least probable that his Jewish

(5) See the Vignette to the next Chapter.

(6') See a narrative of the transaction, published by Mr. Thornton,
in his account of Turkey.

210 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

brethren of the Dardanelles substituted other
antiquities, in the place of reUcs which they
had been told they might find in the tomb\
The Ruins of Pariwn, and of other antient cities
in their neighbourhood, and the usual traffic
carried on with Greeks who pass through the
Straits from all parts of the Archipelago and
Mediterranean, might easily have furnished them
with the means of deception. We have not the
smallest hesitation in affirming, that we believe
these tombs to be coeval with the time of Homer,
and that to one of them, at least, he has alluded
in the Odyssey". Many authors bear testimony
to the existence of the To7nb of Achilles, and to
its situation, on or by the Sigean Promontory^.
It is recorded of Alexander the Great, that
he anointed the Stele upon it with perfumes,
and ran naked around it, according to the
custom of honouring the manes of a Hero"*.
JElian distinguishes the Tomb of Achilles from
that of Patroclus, by relating, that Alexander

(1) A cast from the bronze figure of Isis, said to have been exca-
vated upon that occasion, is now in the possession of the £arl nf
Aberdeen. It certainly represents very antient workmanship. The
inverted position of the wing's is alone proof of its great antiquity,
whatever may have been its real history.

(2) Odyss. il. 73.

(3J Diodorus Slculus, Slralo, JElian, Philostratiis in Vit. /Jpollon, kc'
(4} Diod. Sic. lib. xvii.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. 211

crowned one, and Hepho'stion the other \ It citap.

. VI.

will not therefore be easy to determme, at the ^
present day, which, of the three Tombs now
standing upon this promontory, was that for-
merly venerated by the inhabitants of Sigeiim
for containing the ashes oi uichilles^ . The same
degree of micertainty does not attach to the
Tomb of jjljax : upon the Rhoetean side there is
only a single tumulus.

From hence we descended once more to Hetumto
Koum-hali; where we embarked for the Dar- dandus.
danelles. And now, having finished the survey
of this interesting country, it may be proper to
add, by way of postscript to this Chapter, a brief
summary of the principal facts concerning it,
for the use of other travellers, and as the result
of our observations in Troas^

(5) ^lian. Var. Hist. lib. xii. e. 7. The distinction is also made
Ly Strabo, and by other writers. This difference between Homer's
record and the traditions of the country, respecting the Trojan tVur,
seems to prove that the latter were not derived from the former. Dr.
Chandler has discussed this subject, in his interesting History of Ilium.
See p. 138.

(6) It should also be observed, that to the south of Sigeum, upon
the shore of the yEgean, are yet other Tumuli, of equal, if not greater
size, to which hardly any attention has yet been paid ; and these are
visible far out at sea. The opening all of them will, it is hoped, one
day throw some light upon this curious subject.

(7) The Readep is rerjuested to consult the engraved Vignette of the
Fourth Chapter ; as a map of reference for the observations which
follow.

212 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP. I The river Mender is the Scamaxder of
V. ,- y ^1 HomcTy Strabo, and Pliny. The amnis navi-

Summary r rt i n

ofObserva- gauUis 01 Pliny flows into the yirchipelago, to

in Troas. the SOUth of SlgeUTTl^.

II. The AiANTEUM, or Tottzi?? of Jjax, stiil
remains ; answering the description given of its
situation by antient authors, and thereby de-
termining also the exact position of the naval
station of the Greeks.

III. The Thymbrius is yet recognised; both
in its present appellation Thymbreck, and in its
geographical position.

IV. The spacious plain lying on the north-
eastern side of the Mender, and watered by the

(1) Plin. Hist. Nat. Tib. v. p. 27T. ed. L.Bat. 1635.

(2) " The following passage of Pliny is attended with some difficulty ;
but the expression ^mnu navii^abilis^ applied to the Scamander, may be
well explained by Plutarch, in two passages to which I shall refer : by
these it appears that the epithet navigabilis was given by the Antients
to small streams. The word ■roraf/.os, as well as amnis, was used by
them, when speaking even of torrents. Strabo, lib. ix. 6, 8.

Scamander, amnis navigabilis ; et in promontorio quodam Sigevm
oppidum: dein j)ortus Achaorum, in quern injluit Xanthus, Simoenti
junctus ; stagnumque prius J'aciens PalcFscamander'

" Plutarch speaks thus, in two places, of the river Melas, in Phocis ;
a part of Greece which he knew most intimately, from being born
there. * The Melas, spread out into navigable marshes and lakes
(l>.5 rtXuroc ko.) xlfivas), makes the plain impassable.' Again : * The
Melas is navigalle at its sources {■^Xaifias !» ■jrnya.Ti).' Vit. Pelop. et
Syllae. The marshes on the Plain of Troy, made by the river, are
mentioned by Strabo, p. 859. We have, then, the Melas, a small
river, navigable at its sources, and with navigable marshes."

ff'alpole's 31S. Journal.

DISTRICT OF TROAS. »213

CaUifai Osmack, is the Simoisiax; and that chap.
stream the SiMOis. Here were signalized all .

the principal events of the Trojan War.

V. The Ruins of Palaio CaUifat are those of
the Ilium of Strabo. Eastward is the Throsmos,
or Mound of the Plain.

VI. The Hill near Tchihlack, if it be not the
CalUcolone, may possibly mark the site of the
tillage of the Ilieans, mentioned by Strahoy
where antient Ilium stood.

VII. Udjek Tepe is the Tomb of iEsYETES.
The other tombs mentioned by Strabo, at
Sigeum, are all in the situation he describes.
The To??ib of Protesilaus also still exists ; it
is on the European side of the mouth of the
Hellespont.

VIII. The springs of Bo;2«r^'a5A7/ may possibly
have been the AOIAI nHFAI of Homer; but
they are not sources of the Scamander. They
are, moreover, ivarm springs.

IX. The SOURCE of the Scamander is in
Gargarus, now called Kasdaghy, the highest
mountain of all the Idcean Chain.

X. The Altars of Jupiter, mentioned by
Hmner, and by JE,schylus, were on the hill called
Kushunlu Tepe, at the foot of Gargarus; where
the ruins of the temple now remain.

XI. Pal^ Scepsis is yet recognised in the
appellation Eslsy Shiipshu.

214 DISTRICT OF TROAS.

CHAP. XII. MnL is the Aineia of Straho; and jEni

VI.

^ Tepe, perhaps, the Tomb of jEneas.

XIII. The extremity of the Adramyttian Gulph
inclines round the ridge of Gargarus, towards
the north-east; so that the circumstance of
Xerxes having this mountain upon his left, in
his march from Antandrus to Ahydus, is thereby
explained.

XIV. Gargarus affords a view, not only of
all the Flain of Troy, but of all the district of
Troas, and a very considerable portion of the
rest of Asia Minor.

Sigean Promontory.

CHAP. VII.

FROM THE HELLESPONT TO RHODES.

Transactions at the Dardanelles — Piihlic Sports — Inscrip-
tions — Voyage down the Hellespont — Tenedos — Lectum
Promontory — Lesbos — Erythrtsan Straits — Chios —
Straits of Samos — Burning Vapour — View of Patmos
and /^eCyclades — Pirates — Cos — Plane Tree — Inscrip-
tions — Fountain of Hippocrates — Greek Manuscripts —
Beautiful Piece of Antient Sculpture — Voyage from Cos
to Rhodes — Ruins of Cnidus — visited by Morritt — and
hy Walpole — Carpathian Isles — Rhodes.

W E were detained some time at the Dardanelles, chap.
waiting for the vessel from Constantinople. This

216 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, came at last, so deeply laden with stores, for the
vir. ^ "L

V -v-i-/ supply of our army m Egypt, that we were almost

tionslTthe afraid to venture on board She had the name
neufs'!' of Tauricia, and was literally nothing more than
a covered boat. Mercantile speculations make
bold adventurers. Few persons would have
volunteered in an expedition across the Mediter-
ranean in such a bark; but our good captain com-
forted us with the assurance, that Columbus sailed
across an unknown ocean in a skiff of less pro-
mise. He had cast anchor higher up the Straits,
towards the Sea of Marmora, where vessels from
Constantinople lie secure from all winds, and find
better ground. There is no good anchorage at
the Dardanelles. Captain Castle had fitted up a
small apartment in the stern, to serve as a cabin;
and had placed one enormous gun in the prow,
to intimidate pirates; observing dryly to us, as
we surveyed it, that we should be lucky if it did
not carry the gib-boom under water, in rough
weather. It was amusing to notice the sort of
speculation, which occupied not only the hold,
but every part of the vessel, where it had been
possible to cram any article of food or of mer-
chandise. Barrels o{ Jdrianople tongues, candles,
tea, sugar, cheese ; butter of the Ukraine, already
in an oily state, and oozing through the sides of
the casks; wine, onions, cordage, iron, biscuit,
cloth, pens, paper, hard-ware, hats, shoes, tobacco.

VII.

TO RHODES. 217

ftnd fruit. A few live sheep were, moreover, chap.
huddled together close to the gun in the forecastle.

During our stay at the Dardanelles, we had lived
in the house of the Neapolitan Consul. This re-
spectable old man put in force a stratagem which^
may serve to shew the extraordinary power of
hnagination over diseases of the body. The
author, being troubled with an intermitting fever,
brought on during his journey in Troas, had been
observed by the Consul to go frequently to a
clock, in the antechamber of our apartment,
watching for the hour when the paroxysm would
begin. This had hitherto occurred exactly at
noon. One morning he put back the clock a full
hour. At tivelve, therefore, as the index pointed
to eleven, there was no apprehension of the fever;
and at one, although the hour seemed to be pre-
sent, the paroxysm did not take place. Unfor-
tunately, pleased by the success of his experi-
ment, he boasted of it; and the consequence was,
that, after the usual interval, the fever again
returned. In the same manner, the charins used
among the lower order of people in England,
and in other countries, operate in healing agues.
The Tomh of Protesilaus, as related by Philostra-
tus\ was antiently resorted to for the cure of a
quartan fever.

(l) P/iilostrat. in Heroicis. — See also Chandler's Ilium, p. 14-.

218 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP. We received e^reat civilities from the Pasha.

VII

/ He sent one of his officers, with our Greek servant,
to collect some marbles which we wished to re-
move from Troas; a work generally attended with
difficulty, owing to a notion the Turks have, that
Christians cmi extract gold from such stones. The
ceremony of his daughter's marriage with the
son of an Asiatic Viceroy, called, by way of emi-
nence. The Pasha of Asia, and said to be Lord
over a hundred villages, took place during the
PubHc iX^ciie. we remained. Upon this occasion, public
sports were exhibited; and we had an opportu-
nity of seeing a magnificent celebration of the
game of Djerid, the tournament of the Turks.
This very antient pastime might possibly have
given rise to tilts and tournaments. It is difficult
to reconcile a passion for this martial exercise
with the natural habits and indolence of the Turks.
The two old Pashas fought against the young
bridegroom, each party being at the head of a
numerous band. The contest was often so severe,
that we expected to see their eyes, if not their
lives, sacrificed. The manner of the engagement
has been often described. It consists chiefly in
a charge at full speed, and in an attack, made by
hurling short thick sticks, as javelins'. Great

(l) According to the Chevalier D'Jrvieur, {Voy. dans la Palestiney
p. 62. Par. 17 17,) it is from this kind of weapon that the game derives

its

TO RHODES. 219

dexterity is shewn, both in parrying off these ^^^j^J^-
darts, and in the display of equestrian skill. Upon ^ — , — '
the day following that in which the combat took
place, male camels were brought to fight with
each other, during a concert of Turkish music.
In this exhibition there was nothing curious nor
diverting, except the extraordinary strength
shewn by these animals, when a female camel
was brought before them. One of the camels,
with half a dozen strong Turks endeavouring to
restrain it, set off in full speed, overtook the
female, and threw her down, notwithstanding all
their efforts to the contrary. The festivity of the
day ended with a scene of intoxication in the
palace of the Pasha of the Dardanelles, who was
much addicted to drinking. When commotions
arose, or there was reason to fear a visit from
the Capudan Pasha, who came occasionally to
levy contribution, he retired to his little villa in
the recesses of Mount Ida : here he gave full
scope to his love of drinking ; having conveyed
with him his concubines, musicians, dancers,
and game-keepers, being much attached to the
sports of the field.

its appellation; Djerid being an Arabic word, which signifies ih*
branch of a Palm-tree stripped of its leaves. Sometimes, canes or reed-',
or common sticks, are employed for the same purpose. A rejtresen-
tation of this sport is given iu Nicbulir's Description of Arabia, torn. 1.
tab.XV. Copenh. 1773.

220 - FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP. The late Mr. JViUis left at the Dardanelles two

VII. .

' marUeSy with inscriptions, which are now m the

»ionT^' possession of the Custom-House officer. These
were offered for sale to us. Mr. Willis, it is 'said,
found them in Troas ; probably in Alexandria
Troas. One of them had been the capital of a
pillar, and was converted by the Turks into a
mortar: the other exhibited only a broken mass
of marble, of an irregular form. Upon the first
we read,

FORTISSIMOETINVICTISS
IMOCAESARIDNGALER
AVR • VAL • MAXIMIANO
PRINCIPI IVBENTVTIS

This inscription belongs to the latter end of the
third century ; Galerius Maximianus having been
Consul in the year 294. The title of Ccesar was
conferred upon him by Diocletian. The letters
DN are the usual abbreviation of Dominus. The
title Princeps Jubentutis, or Juventutis, was used
in the time of the Republic ; and we find it con-
tinned through almost all the Emperors, until the
time of Constantine: " symbolum FUxuRiE sue-
CESsiONis," as it is expressed by Spanheim\

In what remains of the other inscription, we find
mention made of the Tribunus Militum of the third

(1) Z)e Prcrst. ct Lh. Nxon. Diss, 7.

TO RHODES. 221

Legion ; of the Frcefeclus Fabrum'; and of the chap.

Pnefectus Equiium. The latter part relates, ' ^— ^

perhaps, to the conquest of forty-four States in
Africa. The following are the only legible cha-
racters upon the stone :

TRIE • MILLEGIIIAV
PRAEFFABR • TEST
PRAEF • EQVITUMALA
NVMIDIVIPRONI
CIVITATES XXXXIIII
EXPROVINCAFRICA

We saw no other antiquities at the Dardanelles ;
nor were we able to procure any antient medals.
If these be found, the Consuls of the different
nations reserve them as presents for their re-
spective ambassadors at Constantinople. Captain
Castle had, however, obtained several among
tlie Ruins of Parium ; where he also observed
curious mosaic pavements, and other remains of
that city.

Havino- all our thins^s on board, we weighed Voyage

'^ =• . ° down the

anchor, and took leave of Monsieur Preaux, who udiesiMU.
returned to Constantinople. As we sailed down
the Straits, a very conspicuous Tumulus appear-
ed, crowning the hills upon the European side*.

(2) Vid. Cic. ad Attic. Ep. 1 .

(3) Perhaps the Torab of Protesilaus, near El«ti$.

222 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP. Leaving the Dardanelles, we again passed the
■ interesting land of Troas, once more viewing the
Rhoelean Promontory, the Tomh of A/ax, +he
Grecian harbour, the Sepulchre ofJSsyetes, and the
mouth of Xanthus, tinging the dark waters of the
Hellespont with its yellow torrent. Our course
was along the European side of the channel ; as in
coasting Sigeum there is a shoal, whereon vessels
are often stranded. In order to escape this, ships
from the Archipelago SiYoid bearing up the Straits
until they are able to see all the windmills, sta-
tioned upon the brow of the promontory'. Two
of the tombs mentioned by Straho appear very
conspicuously in that point of view. The house
of a Dervish is situate in the side of one which
is the nearest to the windmills, and to the village
of Yeni Cheyr; and this was the sepulchre opened
by order of Monsieur cle Choiseul'\ Having
doubled the cape, two other Tumuli appear upon
the coast towards the south^ These are very
large, and stand close to the cliff above the shore.

Teaedos. ^Yq galled ou towards Tenedos. The soil, as we
approached, seemed bleak and barren; but the

(1) See the Vignette to this Chapter.

(2) See Xhefignette : although, with reference to the Tumh of Achilles,
there is a passage in Straho which seems to assign for it a position to
the south oi Sigeum. He is evidently proceeding from ^/geKwi towards
I.ectum, when he says 'Esti S' h f^t'-k Tnt tiytaHa. a.Ki>a,^ y.ai <ro 'A;^/XXsi«v,
*. r. X. Strab. Geog. I, xiii. />. 86'9. Ed.Oxon.

(3) See the preceding Note.

TO RHODES. 223

island produces the finest wine in the u4rchipela^o. chap.
The Egyptian Expedition had raised its price to
eight paras the oke : the more usual demand
was only from four to six. This wine will keep
fourteen or sixteen years ; after that time it loses
its red colour, and becomes white, but retains
its strength and flavour to a much longer period.
The wind and sea were so turbulent, that we
could not land : we fired a gun, and remained
near the town ; this is situate in a low and
sheltered spot. A boat came towards us upon
our signal, but found such a sea running, that
she was compelled to return, and we continued
our course. Perhaps we surveyed the island
better from our deck than we could have done
on shore ; for we saw the whole extent of the
town, with the vessels lying in its port, and the
land on either side. There is upon the island
but one object to attract strangers, excepting its
wine. It was antiently famous for its earthen-
ware ; fraoments of which we had seen in Troas.
But the Soros oi AtticuSy father oiHerodes Atticus,
is in the market-place ; and this, with its opercu-
lum, is said to be entire. It stands in the Agora
of the town, serving as a cistern. The inscrip-
tion upon it is already published*. Touriiefort,
who has anticipated every thing it might have

(4) See Chandler's I/iscript tones Antique, No. IV,

VOL. iir. p

224 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, been proper to state concerning the antient
■ history of Tenedos ; and who pubHshed, at the
same time, a very accurate Plan of the island,
with a view of the town ; was told that no
remains of former times existed'. The bronze
medals of Tenedos are however not uncommon.
If the interesting monument now mentioned be
hereafter noticed, its removal will not be diffi-
cult. The Jeivish Consul at the Dardanelles might
at any time effect the undertaking; but this
could not be done without considerable ex-
pense.

Continuing our course towards the south,
after passing the town of Tenedos, we were
struck by the very grand appearance of the antient
Balnece, already described, among the remains
of udllexandria Troas. The three arches of the
building make a conspicuous figure, from a consi-
derable distance at sea, like the front of a magni-
ficent palace ; and this circumstance, connected
with the mistake so long prevalent concerning the
city itself, gave rise to the appellation of *' The
Palace of Priam,'' bestowed by mariners upon
Ledum these ruins. Thence we sailed to the Promontory
tory. of Lectum, now Cape Baha, at the mouth of the
^dramyttianGulph; the south-western extremity

(1) Voyage du Levant, torn. II. p. 92. Lj/on, 1717.

TO RHODES. 225

of that chain of mountains of which Garsarus is chap.

VII.

the summit. This cape presents a high and bold >
cUff, on whose steep acclivity the little town of
Baha appears, as though stuck within a nook^
It is famous for the manufacture of knives and
poignards : their blades are distinguished in
Turkey by the name of Baha Leek.s. Afterwards,
crossing- the mouth of the Gulph, we passed
round the western point of the Island of Mity-
lene, antiently called the Sigrian Promontory.
It is uncertain at what time the island chansfed
its antient name of Lesbos for that which it now
bears ; but Eustathius says it was so called from
Mhylene, the capital town. Its situation, with
regard to the Adramyttian Gulph, is erroneously
delineated in maps and charts : some of these
place it at a distance in the JEgean Sea^.

We had surveyed the whole of this island, Leshos.
with considerable interest, from the Peak of
Gargarus; and now, as the shades of evening were
beginning to conceal its undulating territory,

(2) A verj- accurate view of it is engraved in Sir TVilliam GelCs
" Topography of Troy," p. 21. from his own drawing. The place was
ealled Buba, from a Dervish {Baha) buried there, " who always gave
the Turks intelligence when any rovers were in the neighbouring seas."
Egmont and Heytnan's Travels, vol.1, p. 162.

(3) Our geographical documents of the /Archipelago are a disgrace to
the age ; the very best of them being false in their positions of latitude,
and in the respective bearings of the different islands, as well as remark-
able for their unaccountable omissions.

P 2

226 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, a vain wish of enjoyina- a nearer view was

VII. J J 9

V y .> excited. The consciousness to a traveller of the
many places he cannot visit, often counter-
balances the satisfaction derived from the view
of objects he has been permitted to see \ Few

(l) Some amends for the author's deficiency, with respect to Mity-
Icne, will be made by communication of a different nature ; namely,
by those extracts from the MS. Journal of his friend Mr. fTltlpole
which relate to his Travels in Asia Minor. They begin with his Journey
from Pergamus to Smyrna,

" The antiquities of Pergamus are very deserving of a minute
examination ; particularly those on the Acropolis ; on one part of
which, towards the south, is a wall of granite, a most stupendous work,
eighty or ninety feet in perpendicular depth. Vast cisterns and
decayed towers, (in one of which I copied a Greek Inscription relating
to a decree ratified by the people of Pergamus, and inscribed in the
Temple of Bacchus,) are to be seen there. The Acropolis was adorned
with a temple of the Corinthian order, whose pillars, of nearly four
feet in diameter, are lying prostrate among other parts of it. This
temple, I conceive, was erected to Minerva : we know, from Vitru-
vius, that her temple was built ' in excelsissimo loco' (lib. i. c.7.); and
the silver money of Pergamus bears her image constantly : games also
were, as Polybius informs us, celebrated here, in honour of her, by
Attalus, (lib. iv.) Below, to the south, is the town ; and to the west
of it was the Stadium, and a theatre above it. The relative situation
of these two buildings at Tralles in Asia was the same, according to
Vitruvius, (lib. v.) * Trallibus porticus ex utrdque parte scend^, supra sta-
dium.' Farther on to the west, are the remains of an amphitheatre or
Naumachia : there is water dividing the two semicircles ; so that if
the building was used for the first, it must have flowed beneath, in a
channel, whenever the sports were represented.

*' There is no part of the Turkish dominions where you may travel
with greater safety, than in the district under the family of Kara
Osman Oglou. The two capitals, as they may be called, are Pergamus,
and Magnesia. In coming from the former place to Smyrna, I passed
through part of their territory. The country was, for Turkey, well
cultivated j most of it laid down in cotton and coi-n land. They plough,

VII.

TO RHODES. 227

literary strangers will pass the shores of Lesbos ^^}^^f'
with indifference. Its land was peculiarly dig-
nified by genius, and by wisdom : iEolian lyres

as I was told, with a pair of oxen, more than an acre a day ; and the
manure they use is burnt weed. The whole country was now (April)
wearing a beautiful appearance : the anemone, ranunculus, and hya-
cinth, were seen in the fields, and by the road side. Having slept one
night in the open air, by a fire which the driver of the caravan kindled
with dried horse-dung, I arrived the next day at the banks of the
Hermus ; winding, and muddy ; daily adding to the land, which it has
already formed on tlie north side of the Gulph of Smyrna. 1 crossed
it at the ferry, and reached Meuomen ; whence I sailed to Smyrna in
an hour. From Meuomen, boats come daily to Smyrna, in the season,
laden with water-melons (the Cucurbita Citrullus), called, by the Greeks,
Angouria. From the seed, a liquor is made, which is sold about the
streets of Smyrna.

" The fields and gardens about Smyrna are planted with almond,

olive, fig, and pomegranate trees. The little village of Narli-keui

takes it name from the abundance of the pomegranate-trees there.

Some of the plants, birds, and insects, found at Smyrna, are described

by Hasselquist. The j'rancolin (a kind of partridge, and called by

Belon the array?) of the Greeks), and heccajico, are found in abundance :

the latter I have heard called by a name not unlike the antient.

' SyxaX/Ss; (sajs Athenffius) are taken in the Jig-season-' lib. ii.GD.

Woodcocks, and a species of plover, are seen in December. Wild-boars

are frequently shot here in the mountains. I saw also a quantity of

the ix^'s (the sea-egg), which is eaten by the Greeks in their fasts ;

and called now by the same name. ' It d/^/ends itself hy its pricMy

shell:' Athenaeus, lib.iii.41. The ocfopodio?i, as the modern Greeks

call it, is also eaten by them in Lent ; it is a cuttle-fish, with eight

rays, or tentacula, as the name indicates. The hills round Smyrna are

of granite. At a village to the south of it, called Bujaw, is a very fine

grove of cypress-trees: this tree, so great a favourite with the Turks

in their burying-grounds, is there planted on account of its balsamic

smell : its wood, as well as that of the Ficus Sycoinortis, was always

prized in the East for its durability. The Egyptians made their

mummy-chests of it ; and the Athenians buried those who had fallen

in war in coffins of this wood. Between Smyrna and Bournabat, a

village seven miles to the north-east of it, is a very large cemetery,

with

228 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, were strung in every valley, and every mountain

t - ^-' > v^as consecrated by the breath of inspiration'.

While more antient records tell of an Alcceus, a

Sappho, and a Pittacus ; of Arion, and Ter pander ;

with all the illustrious names o^ Lesbian bards and

■with remains ot antiquity in it, and Greek Inscriptions. The Turkish
burying-grounds are in general extensive, as they never put a
body where one has been already deposited; and are also offensive, as
they do not put them deep in the ground. In the mosque at
Bournabat, I copied a Greek Inscription from a pillar sixteen feet in
length : it commemorates the river Meles : the last part of the inscrip-
tion is a Senarian Iambic. This river, before it comes to Smyrna, is
crossed by two aqueducts, to the south-east of the city ; one of which
may be 300 feet from one hill to the opposite ; and the other about 200
feet. The Meles flows now through part of the town, turning a few
mills; and empties itself in the sea to the north-east. In going out
of the Frank-street, at the north end, and towards the careening-
ground, you walk over soil which has been gained from the sea. The
arrow-headed grass of Sweden, which Hasselquist found here, and
which grows where the earth has remains of sea-salt, proved to him
that the earth had here been covered with the sea. This circumstance
makes it difficult to arrange the present topography, in some respects,
■with the antient.

*' The remains of antiquity, which the Acropolis of Smyrna presents,
are few : the chief are, part of the castle-wall, perhaps of the time of
Lysimachus ; the cisterns ; and the site of the Stadium, built as that
at Ephesus was, with one side on vaults, and the other on a natural
declivity ; exhibiting now sports of a less cruel kind than it did for-
merly. In 1806, I saw cricket-matches played heie by some of the
merchants. A Kiln and Ba2ar were built with marble brought from
the Theatre ; and the only specimen of antiquity which was discovered
while I was there, was a colossal marble foot. After Constantinople,
there is no town in the Levant which presents a more beautiful and
interesting prospect than that which is beheld fi-om the castle-hill,
extending over the city beneath ; the bay with the sliipping ; the
mountains beyond; the winding Hermus on tlie north side of theGulph ;
and the biglily-cuhivated plain adjoining to the city of Smyrna."

IFalpole's MS. Journal.
(1) Where each old poetic mountain

Inspiration breathed around.

TO RHODES. 229

sages and poets and historians ; Cicero and chap.
Vitruvius expatiate on the magnificence of its
capitar. Such was the flourishing state of the
Fine Arts in the city of Mitylene^, when Mar-
cellus, after the battle of Pharsalia, retired thither
to end his days in hterary ease, that a modern
traveller, after the lapse of seventeen centuries,
could behold nothing but proofs of the splendour to
which they had attained ^ The medals oi Lesbos
are less known than of any other island in the
Archipelago; because those which have been
described as its antient silver coinage, properly
belong to Macedonia'. Yet the island itself has
never been fully examined in modern times ;
probably from its being so completely under
the Moslem dominion. Tournefort, who has given
us the best account of it, with that industry
and erudition which characterize his writings,
had little opportunity for its investigation.
According to his own confession, he was, for
the most part, confined to the shore at Petra^ ;

(2) Gc. De Leg. Agr. Vitiuv. Y\h.\. c.Q.

(3) 'H fiiyiirrv rro\is. Strah. Geogr. lib. xiii.

(4) " Aussi n'y voit-on que bouts de colounes, la pluspart de marbre

blanc, quelquesunes gris-cendr^, ou de granit, &c II n'est

pas croyable combien dans les ruines dont nous parloas, ilyrcste de
chapiteaux, de frises, de piedestaux, de bouts d'Inscriptions," &c.
Tournef. Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 81. Lyon, 1717.

(5) See Combe's Accouut of Hunter's Medals, IVum. Vet. Pop. et
Urb. &c. Tab. 33. Fig. 1. &c. p. 171.

(6) Voyage du Levant, torn. II. p. 86.

230 FROM THE HELLESPONT

lest the captain, with whom he had contracted
for a passage to Constanlinople, should sail
without him. Next to the work of Tourneforty
rank the Travels of Egmont and Heyman, who
saw more of the actual state of the country :
but still very little is known of the interior of
the island ; although, according to the observa-
tions of these gentlemen, it is fertile, and well
cultivated ; yielding seventy thousand quintals
of oil annually to the port of Mitylene\ The
site and remains of the antient towns of Eressus^
and Methymna^ were known in the time of
Tournefort; the former of which still preserves
its original name, almost unaltered, in the
modern appellation of Eresso ; and the ruins of
the latter are yet to be seen*. Excepting Euhcea^
this is the largest island in the Mgean Sea. It
was the mother of many jEolian colonies. Its
happy temperature conspired with the richness
of its soil to produce those delicious fruits,
and those exquisite wines, which are so highly
extolled by antient writers*. The present state

(1) Beef was then only one penny the pound in the market of
Jllit2/lene.

(2) Famous for the births of Theophrastus and Plmnias, the most
rcnowped of Aristotle's disciples.

(3) Famous for the birth o2 Arinn.

(4) Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 84.

[h)\\Ci.Horut. Lib. i. Od. 17. Firgil. Georg. lib. ii. 8;;, SO. Aul.
Cell. lib. xiii. c. 5. &c. &c.

TO RHODES. 231

of its ao-riculture does not however entitle its chap.
products to the high encomium once bestowed '
upon them. Its wine is said to have lost the
reputation it formerly gained®; probably owing
entirely to the ignorance and the indolence
of its Turkish masters, and to the disregard
shewn by them to the cultivation of the
vine.

Early on the following morning, passing the Er-iihraan
Promontory of Melisna, and the mouth of the
Hermean Gulph, or Gulph of Smyrna, we entered
the Straits, between Chios, now Scio, and the
main land. All this voyage from the Hellespont,
between the continent and adjacent islands, was
considered by our Captain as mere river sailing ;
but pirates lurk among the Straits, in greater
number than in the more open sea. Being
always in sight of land, and often close in
with it, the prospects are in the highest degree
beautiful.

In the channel between CJiios and the opposite
peninsula of Ery three"', the scenery is perhaps

(6) Travels ai Egmont anA Hiymav, vol.1, p. 158. iMid. I75D.

(7 ) The Ruins of Erythro' are at a jilaco .'ailed Rytropoli, by the little
river Aloes, near Tchesme. When iMr. 7/^«//.o/c'vvas there, a number of
very beautiful little bronze medals wcvc discovered, all of Erythr.'e.
He kindly presented some of them to the aiiihor. They have in front

t!ie

232 FROM THE HELLESPONT

^vn^* "^^^^^^l^cd by any thing in the Archipelago;
^ w '-' not only owing to the grandeur, the height.

the bead of Hercules ; and for the obverse, the letters EPT, with the
name of a magistrate. An Extract from Mr. Wulpole's Journal will
here communicate the result of his remarks in /isia Minor, made
subsequei)tly to his arrival at Smyrna.

" During my journey in Asia, I took up my abode for the night in
the khans or caravanserais, choosing a room to myself in these bad sub-
stitutes for inns, rather than the private houses of the Turks, where my
Janissary procured me admittance. For although the Turks are quiet
and inofFensive, yet any thing is preferable to sleeping in a small room
•with half-a-dozen of them ; or to a cross-legged posture at meals, round a
low table, eating spcon-meats, of which their repasts generally consist.
As the road I travelled was not much frequented, I was forced to stop at
the houses of individuals; and arriving generally at sun-set, I found them
beginning their supper ; their dinner is at ten in the morning, as they rise
at break of day. Sometimes a village afforded a small hut of mud and
straw, purposely built for travellers : half of this was raised about two
feet from the ground, for men to lie on ; the other half accommodated
three or four horses. In the great towns it was necessary to go first to
the Governor, with some present, accompanied by my Janissary. At
Guzel-hissar I waited on the Aga, who, after some conversation with my
Janissary, ordered a Greek (his tailor) to receive me into his house, where
I remained some days. Presents to tlie servants are always given. At
Melasso, I waited on the Governor: it was the time of the fast of the
Ramadan : I found him sitting on his divan, counting his beads of thick
amber : a pipe was brought to me, but not to him, as he did not smoke,
eat, nor drink, from sun-rise to sun-set. He shewed me guns and pistols
made in England : these some Englishmen had brought to Melasso, coming
to buy horses for the army on the Egyptian Expedition. This fast of the
Ramadan I found was most strictly observed. IMy Janissary was not so
scrupulously abstemious as my guide, who never even took snuflT until the
sun was below the horizon. I passed the evenings WTiting my journal,
and reading some books of travels I had with me. The Turkish peasants
■would sometimes bring medals : these they found in the fields. The con-
versation of the Turks turned generally, as I found from my interpreter,
on tlie affairs of the village and its neighbourhood. Tlie women never

appeared.

TO RHODES. 233

and the magnitude, of the gigantic masses on chap.

. \ 1 i.

the coast, but from the extreme richness and > ^ — '

Chios.

appeared. I saw some by the road side ; and in the villages, young chil-
dren made their appearance, with strings of copper money around their
heads ; and the nails, both of their hands and feet, dyed of a reddish
colour, with henna, the leaves of which are powdered and formed into a
paste, and then applied. Tins is a custom of great antiquity : Hasselquist
says he saw the nails of some mummies dyed in this manner. Although
the Turks, in their intercourse with each other, strictly adhere to the
practice of taking off their slippers in a room, (a custom of the Antients;
see Martial, lib. iii. ' deposui soleas,') yet they dispense with it frequently
in the case of European travellers.

" Besides rice and fowls, it is possible to procure, at many of the villages
and towns in Asia 3Iinor, Yowrt, or sour milk, called in Greek l^uyakx ;
Cainiac, or coagulated cream, in Greek u^^oyaXu ; and soft cheese, ;^Xfc»g«
rupi, a literal translation of the caseus viridis of Columella. Glutton is
universally preferred to beef ; this, in general, is coarse and bad tasted:
the former is double the price of the latter, and is two-pence the pound.

" A Greek labourer receives from thirty-five to forty paras a day, nearly
fifteen pence : he works only two-thirds of the year ; the other third con-
sists of holidays. During the four fasts, of which that in Lent is the most
strictly observed, he eats shell-fish, caviar (the roe of sturgeon), pulse, and
anchovies.

" I observed but few Greek villages in Asia IMinor : the Greeks all
seek the great towns, to avoid more easily the different means of oppression
resorted to by the Turkish Governors; whose short residence in their
provinces is spent, not in countenancing or furtliering any improvement
or plans of amelioration in the condition of those subject to them, but in
exacting everj' thing they can, to repay tliemselves for the sum which the
Porte takes from them ; and in carrying away what wealth they are able
to amass. It is difficult to ascertain what sum any given province pays
annually to the Porte : but a neai- conjecture may be made, by adding
the Haralch (capitation-tax) to the sum wliich the Governor stipulates to
pay every year.

" The Turks, as far as my experience carried mc, shew no disposition
to molest or offend a traveller. Sometliing contemptuous may at times be

observed

234 FROM THE HELLESPONT

<^^^Ar. fertility of the island, filled with flowery, luxu-

" r—^ riant, and odoriferous plants, and presenting a

magnificent slope, covered with gardens from

observed in their manner. But a great change for the better, in their
genera] deportment, is to be attributed to their never being now exasperated
by the attack of corsairs or pirates on the coast.

" No people living under the same climate, and in the same country,
can be so opposite as the Greeks and Turks. There is in the former a
cringing manner, and yet a forwardness, disgusting to the gravity and
seriousness of the latter. The Turks treat the Armenians, who conduct
themselves generally with great propriety and decorum, with much less
harshness than they shew to the Greeks. Their present condition is
certainly not the most favourable point of view for considering the cha-
racter of the Greeks; and their faults, which are those of their unfortunate
situation, would disappear under more favourable circumstances, and a
different government. When in oflSce and authority, they are not so
devoid of insolence to their countrj-men as might be wished. The codja-
bashis in the Morea are, many of them, tyrannical to the other Greeks.
The treatment which the Jews experienced at their hands, in the time of
the Greek empire, is that which the Greeks now meet vvith from the
Turks. ' No one,' says Benjamin of Tudela, ' dares to go on horseback,
but the Imperial physician ; and the Jews are hated in the town by all the
Greeks, without any regard to their good or bad character.' p. 30. as cited
hy 2\^iebithr.

" Neither hay nor oats are known to the Turks ; nor has any nation in
the East ever used them for their horses. ' They brought barley also and
straw for the horses:' 1 A'/n^s iv. 28. Homer may be consulted, II. E.
195; and Juvenal, >S'a/.viii. Qjumentis ordea lassi's'). Niebuhr sa}'s,
he saw no oats in Arabia. I did not observe tobacco so much cultivated
as corn and cotton. The tobacco-plantations require much attention, but
are very productive. After gathering the leaves, the stalks stand and rot,
and, by the salt which they contain, fructify the earth. The crop from a
tobacco-plantation is esteemed worth t%\ice as much as the product of the
same land sown with corn. An acre of moderately good ground is said to
yield about two hundred okes of cotton : an oke is two pounds and tliree
quarters; and the cotton may be worth nearly two piastres an eke.

" The

VII.

TO RHODES. 235

the water's edge. Trees bending with fruit — chap.
the citron, the orange, the lemon, the mulberry,
and the Lentisais or Mastic-tree — are seen

" The olive-tree flourishes in a chalky soil. In summer, a hollow is
dug round the tree, to receive water • the fruit is beaten off with long
sticks, and not gathered. The olive-presses, which I saw, consist of a
circular basin, of twelve feet in diameter ; and from the centre rises a tall
strong piece of wood, to which a large stone, like a mill-stone, is attached.
A horse goes round the basin, and, as he moves, the perpendicular piece of
wood receives a rotatory motion; this is communicated to the stone.

" Locusts are called by tlie Greeks x.ara.oa, (a curse). They had laid
waste the country about Adramyttium and Pergamus. Proceeding in
a straight line, and stopped by no impediment, they devoured every kind
of vegetation : all means used to destroy them were fruitless ; if some part
were killed by smoke and fire, kindled expressly, still, however, multitudes
escape. In July, tlie Archipelago was covered for some distance with
swarms, which the wind had driven into the sea. They were larger than
grasshoppers, with legs and body of a yellow colour: their wings were
brown, and spotted. The Turks have not learned to eat them; but with
the Arabs, the locust is boiled or roasted, and eaten with salt. Europeans
are surprised at this ; as the Arabs are, when they hear that we eat crabs,
oysters, and lobsters.

" The storks, while I was in the Troad, were building their nests on the
houses at Bournabashi. The veneration paid to these birds by the Maho-
metans is well known. The Thessalians (says Plutarch, de Iside et
Osiride) esteem tliem, because they destroyed serpents. The noise made
by the upper and under parts of their bill (' crepitante ciconia rostro'
Ovid.) is well compared, by Shaw, to that of a pair of castanets.

" On the great roads near Smyrna, which lead to the interior, are to be
met frequent caravans of camels ; these are preceded by an ass ; and
round their necks are strings of beads, with a bell. I mention this,
because the same ornament is seen on the camels sculptured at Persepolis.
Tlie camel of the northern part of Asiatic Turkey is a stronger animal
than that of the south : the latter carries not more than five hundred
pounds weight; but the former from eight to nine hundred. Near
Moolah I met a caravan laden with iron ore." IFalpole's MS. Journal.

236 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, forming extensive groves : and in the midst of
these appears the town of Scio.

Upon first entering the Straits, small objects
do not interfere with the stupendous grandeur
of the view. Mountains, high, undulating,
sweeping, precipitousr inclose the sea on all
sides ; so as to give to it the appearance of a
vast lake, surrounded by that sort of Alpine
territory, where the eye, from the immensity of
objects, roams with facility over the sides and
the summits it beholds ; surveying valleys, and
precipices, and chasms, and crags, and bays;
and, losing all attention to minuter features, is
entirely occupied in viewing the bolder outlines
of Nature. As we advanced, however, and
drew near to Chios, the splendid picture pre-
sented by that beautiful island drew all our
attention, and engrossed it, from daylight until
noon. It is the Paradise of Modern Greece;
more productive than any other island, and
yielding to none in grandeur. We passed close
beneath the town, sailing pleasantly along its
vineyards and plantations, and inhaling spicy
odours, wafted from its cliffs and groves. The
houses being all white, presented a lively con-
trast to the evergreens which overshadowed
them ; seeming like little palaces in the midst
of bowers of citron, lime, olive, and pomegranate

TO RHODES. 237

trees. This chosen spot was for many years chap.
the residence of an Englishman of the name of <■ ^ -
Baimbridge, who had searched all Europe for a
healthy place in which to end bis days ; and,
although his arm was fractured at the advanced
age of seventy-four, he lived in Scio until he
was ninety-three. The captain of our vessel
well remembered him, when he was himself
only the mate of a merchantman, and his
master's ship was laid up during a twelvemonth
in the island. He pointed out the house where
he lived, and the tree beneath which he was
buried ; and spoke of his own residence in Scio
as the happiest remembrance of his life. Indeed,
the praises of this favoured island are universal
in the country, and its dehghts constitute the
burden of many a tale, and many a song,
among the Modern Greeks^: its produce is

(l) Egmont and Heyman published, perhaps, the best account of this
island, not even excepting that of Tournefort ; and to their Travels
the Reader may be referred for further statistical information. To
repeat what has already been so fully communicated, would hardly be
deemed justifiable. We are indebted to their work for the following
eulogy of Chios, as taken from the writings of the celebrated Neapolitan
poet, Parthenius.

" Et me grata Chios, cum Nereus obstrepit undis
Accipiat ; noto facundos littore amicos
Invisam ; O, qui me ventus felicibus oris
Sistat, et ingenti Telluris protegat arcu :
Ingenium me mite soli, me collis aprici
Prospectus, dulcesque cavis in vallibus umbrsp,

238 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, chiefly silk and mastic. From the abundance

VII. •^

of the latter article, the Turks call Chios by the

name of Sackees, which signifies mastic\ The
sale of a single ounce of this substance, before
the Grand Signiors tributary portion of it has
been collected, is punished with death. This
portion is annually received by the Cadij in great
pomp, attended by music and by other demon-
strations of joy.

The inhabitants of Chios amount to about
sixty thousand ; of this number twenty thousand
reside in the town of Scio"^. It contains forty-

Ac tepidae invitant aurae, solesque benigni :
Necnon et placidi mores, et arnica virftni vis,
Docta aiiimos capere officiis ; O, si mihi vitffi,
Ducere, quod superest, alta hie sub pace liceret ! "

Nauticortim, lib. iv. p. 103.

(1) For every information concemiD^ the Mastic-tree, and the use
made of its gum, see Tournefort, torn. II. p. 66. in Turltey, the
ladies of the country amuse themselves by chewing mastic ; ascribing
to it, at the same time,- many virtues. The Turks, however, accord-
ing to Egmont and Heyman, only get the refuse of the mastic ; the
best being sold to foreigners.

(2) " To the south of the town of Scio, which stands on the eastern
side of the island, nearly in the centre, is a beautiful plain, of five
miles in extent, by the sea side ; it is filled with lemon, orange, fig,
pomegranate, almond, and olive trees. A species of Lentiscus, from
which the mastic gum is procured, grows in great abundance there.
No other mastic but that of Scio is mentioned by travellers in the
Levant; but in Galen we find a reference to Egyptian mastic, /^aerrlxi
Aiyvrria, lib. ii. c. 6. ad Clauconem,

" The

TO RHODES. 239

two villaofes'. Its minerals merit a more par- chap.

° ^ VII.

ticular regard than- they have hitherto obtained*.
Jasper and marble are said to be found here in

" The fine climate of the islaud, the mild g^overnnient of the Turks
in it, the natural disposition of the inhabitants, all contribute to form
that liveliness and gaiety of temper which characterize the Sciots ; and
have given rise to the proverb, that it is easier to find * a green horse'
{aXoya -r^dnnMo) ' than a sober-minded Sciot' {Xiaric <p^ev4ftoy). The
features of the women are beautiful ; but are covered with a paint,
in which mercury is an ingredient, and by this their teeth and breath
are affected.

" Besides cargoes of oranges and lemons, sent to Constantinople
and the Black Sea, the island exports many bales of silk, damask, and
velvet, to Barbary, and to Egypt. The population of the capital is
30,000 ; of the whole island, 80,000. Corn and provisions in general
come over from the continent of Asia, as the island is mountainous,
and cannot produce sufficient for the inhabitants. To the north, and
to the west of the town, are seen lofty rocks of granite. Many of the
mountains of Chios contain various sorts of marble, with which the
church of the Convent of Neamoue in particular is ornamented. The
head of this convent inyovfiivo;, as he is called) shewed me the library,
which consisted of some volumes of the Greek Fathers. The street in
which I lived in the town was inhabited by Catholic families only,
separated from the other Greeks by religious schism. In a house in
that street, I copied a very interesting Greek Inscription, in verse ;
I shall here give part of it, in a more correct manner than it has been
lately published in a periodical work :

'Soi Xecfi'Tu fi\v 2o%a, xttXoTg o Iff^kav '^a^iy ipysis

It is in honour of Megacles, the son of Theogiton."

JValpole's MS. Journal.

(3) Egmont and HeymurCs Travels, vol. I. p. 236.

(4) If there be any truth in the adnge prevalent in Scio concerning
the original formation of the island, the geologist would have ample
scope for his researches. Its inhabitants relate, that, " at the crea-
tion of the world, God threw all the rocks of the continent into the
sea, and of these the island of Scio was formed." Ibid. p. Stil.

VOL. in. Q

240 FROiM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, considerable quantity and beauty, and a kind of
VII. . ' .

^- ' green earth, resembling verdegris', of which

we were not able to procure a specimen,

called " Earth of Scio' by the TurJis. The

pavement of the church of Neamomj, a convent,

two hours distant from the town, consists of

marble and jasper, with inlaid work of other

curious stones, dug from quarries in the island.

Several Greek manuscripts were preserved in the

library of this convent, when Egmont and

Hey man visited the place-. The antient medals

of Chios, even the silver, are obtained without

difficulty in various parts of the Levant; and

perhaps with more facility than upon the island

itself^ Its inhabitants antiently possessed a

reputation for virtue, still said to be maintained

among them. According to Plutarch*, there was

no instance of adultery in Chios, during the

space of seven hundred years.

Straits of Having cleared the Chian, or Enithrcran
Straits, we sailed along the Ionian coast for the
channel separating the stupendous heights of
Samos from the lower land of Icaria. This

(1) Egmont and Heyman's Travels, p. 237.

(2) Ibid. p. 249.

(3) They all have reference to the CMun wine, which still maintains
its pristine celebrity ; and represent, in front, a sphinx, with a bunch
of grapes; for the reverse, an amphora, with other symbols of the
island's fertility.

(4) Plut. de Virt. Mulierum.

TO RHODES. 241

marine pass is at present generally known m chap.
these seas by the appellation of the Samian
Boccaze. It presents a bold and fearfid strait,
in the mouth of which is the small island of
Fourni. A very heavy sea rolls continually
through this channel, so that, with contrary
wind, even a frigate can scarcely effect the
passage. Whether it were owing to our having
travelled so long in the level plains of Russia, or
to the reality of the scene, we knew not, but
Samos appeared to us, on its northern side, the
most tremendous and precipitous mountain we
had ever beheld. Its summit was concealed by
a thick covering of clouds, although all the rest
of the Archipelago appeared clear and serene.
We were told that the heights of Samos a.re
rarely unveiled; a circumstance which might
give rise to those superstitious notions enter-
tained in earlier ages, when its aerial solitudes
were believed to be the abode of Deities,
whence the Father of Gods and Men, enveloped
in mysterious darkness, hurled his thunder on
the passing mariner. The most enlightened
seamen of the day, among whom might indeed
be included the Master of our vesseP, maintain.

(5) Captain Castle was reduced by misfortune to become the master
of a small yacht. His abilities are well known to those of our
countrymen who have visited the Levant. Arrowsmith has used his
nautical observations in completing a Chart of the Archipelago.

q 2

242

FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP.
VII.

Burning
Vapour.

upon testimony which it is difficult to dispute,
that in stormy weather they have observed a
lambent flame playing upon the face of the
precipice of Samosy about two-thirds of its
height from the surface of the water. They
further allege, that the natives of Samos have
frequently gone up the mountain, in dark tem-
pestuous weather, to seek this tire, but have
never been able to discover whence it issues.
It is probably one of those exhalations of ignited
hydrogen gas, found in many parts of the world,
which are always most conspicuous in hazy and
rainy weather; as, for exa^nple, the burning
vapour at Pietra Mala in Tuscany, and many
other in different parts of Persia. That of Samos,
perhaps, from its inaccessible situation, rendered
still more difficult of approach in stormy weather,
might escape the search of the natives, and yet
be visible from a considerable distance at sea'.

(1) An anecdote very characteristic of the Turku, relating to an
occurrence wliich happened a short time previous to our travels in
Turkey, will prove that lights are sometimes exhibited by the Samians
themselves, to guide vessels in these Straits. A Turkish frigate, during
her passage through the Boccaze of Samos, was wrecked upon the
rocks of that island. The Turkish Admiral insisted upon being paid
the value of the frigate by the inhabitants : and when the Samians,
regretting that they had not gone up with lights, maintained their
innocetfce as to the loss of the frigate, the Mohammedan exclaimed,
" You will admit one argument ! JVould the wreck have happened, if
your island had not been in the way?" The force of this observation,
which is strictly founded upon the Mohammedan law, has been illus-
trated

TO RHODES. 243

Approaching- the yawning chasm which Nature, chap.
in one of her awful convulsions, has here opened •

to the waves, a mountainous surge rolled after
our little bark. Prosperous winds, however,
carried us along, and we presently left the
Boccaze in our stern; passing the Isle of Fourni,
and steering into the* broad surface of the
waters, with all the southern islands of the

trated by George Henry Keene, Esq. a very eminent Oriental scholar,
who resided uiauy years iu India, in the Company' s service, and is now
of the University of Cambridge. Mr. Keene has informed the author,
that the fifth species of homicide, according to the Mohammedan law, /
is called homicide by an intermediate cause, and it is explained by the
following cases.

A. digs a well, or places a stone in land not his own ; and B,
coming by, falls into the well, or stumbles over the stone, and dies :
that band or company of which A. is a member shall pay the price of
B.'s blood ; for A. in the act that he did, transgressed the law, and is
therefore considered as having thrown down the deceased. But if a
horse should stray that way and be killed, A. must himself pay the
value.

Or, if the wall of a house leans over towards the street, and the
master of the house is duly warned to remove the wall ; and he does
not within a reasonable time remove that wall, so that at last it falls
down and kills a man, or destroys private property ; the master of the
house is answerable for these consequences.

There are many cases which relate to persons riding horses, and
carrying burdens, along the high road, &c. &c. as may be seen in
the Translation of the Hedaya.

Now the principle of the law in all these cases is this : that every
individual, in exercising his right to use highways, markets, mosques,
&c. is bound by the condition, that such exercise of his right shall not
be dangerous to any other individual : and it was by a sophistical
application of this principle, that the Cupiidan Pasha made the Greeks
of Samos pay for the loss of his frigate.

244 FROM THE HELLESPONT

Archipelago in view. It is not possible for any
power of language adequately to describe the
appearance, presented at the rising, or setting
View of Q^ i-j^g ^ -j^ ^Y\Q ^^ean Sea. Whether in dim
the cy- perspective, through grey and silvery mists, or
amidst hues of hveliest purple, the isles and
continents of Greece present their varied features,
nor pen, nor pencil, can pourtray the scenery.
Whatsoever, in the v/armest fancies of my
youth, imagination had represented of this
gifted country, was afterv.^ards not only realized,
but surpassed. Let the Reader picture to his
, conception an evening sun, behind the towering
cliffs of Patmos, gilding the battlements of the
Monastery of the Apocalypse with its parting rays ;
the consecrated island, surrounded by inexpres-
sible brightness, seeming to float upon an abyss
of fire'; while the moon, in milder splendour, is
rising full over the opposite expanse. Such a
scene we actually witnessed, with feelings na-
turally excited by all the circumstances of local
solemnity; for such, indeed, might have been
the face of Nature, when the inspiration of an
Apostle, kindling in its contemplation, uttered
the Alleluias of that mighty Voice ^ telling of

(l) " Aud 1 saw 35 it were a sea of glass mingled with fire." Rev.
(2} Rev. xix. 1. •

TO RHODES. 245

SALVATION AND GLORY AND HONOUR AND CHAP

VI L
POWER. . I

How very different were the reflections caused, Kraics.
upon leaving the deck, by observing a sailor
with a lighted match in his hand, and our
Captain busied in appointing an extraordinary
watch for the night, as a precaution against the
pirates, who swarm in these seas. Those
wretches, dastardly as well as cruel, the in-
stant they board a vessel, put every individual
of the crew to death. They lurk about the Isle
of Fourni, in great numbers ; taking possession
of bays and creeks the least frequented by other
mariners. After they have plundered a ship,
and murdered the crew, they bore a hole
through her bottom, sink her, and take to their

boats again-

(3) An extract from Mr. JVulpole's Journal, containing? an account
of his journey from Smyrna to Hullcarmisms, will here give the
Reader some information concerning the coast along which we were
now sailing.

" As many of the monuments and superb remains on the coast of
Asia have been minutely and faithfully described in the Ionian Anti-
quities, and by Chandler, I shall not repeat their remarks. The
various inscriptions which I copied, both on the coast, and in the interior
of the country, many of them entirely unknown, cannot obtain room
here. I shall state a few miscellaneous remarks, which occurred as I
travelled along the coast southward to Halicarnassus,

" The country between Smyrna and Ephesus is very mountainous :
in one part of the road, near the Caister, you pass the base of the
auticnt Gallesus, under most frightful precipices, the habitation of

some

246 FROM THE HELLESPONT

^y^^- The next morning we came to anchor in the
*■ — . — ^ harbour of the Isle of Cos, now called Stanchio,

some eagles : a few pines are seen on the sides of the mountains : lower
down is the arbutus, in great abundance, with its scarlet fruit, called
now, as antiently, fiufjiaizuy.ii (see Hesych.); and by the torrents, oc-
casionally crossing the road, is the plane and the oleander. The fields
are laid down in cotton plantations, Indian corn, and wheat: among
these are olive-trees, with vines growing around them. The present
inhabitants of Ephesus are a few fishermen, who live in huts on the
banks of the Caister, over which they ferried me. This river winds
through a muddy plain, iii some measure formed by it, and through
lofty reeds, with a slow yellow stream, without anj' of the swans which
the Antients describe : i't empties itself into the sea, at the distance
of an hour from the morass, near the supposed site of the famous
Temple of Diana. The subterranean vaults and passages, close to the
east of this marsh, (into which I descended by a rope, and found only
bats above, and water below,) are imagined, by some, to be the remains
and substruction of this temple. The Church of St. John, built at
Ephesus by Justinian, and which Procopius says was very magnificent,
may have been raised from the materials presented b}' the Temple of
Diana ; and this will in some measure account for the little that can
be seen or known of the latter. Near these remains, to the south-
west of the stadium, is an arch : on the top of this, climbing by the
■wall, as no ladder was to be found, I copied a Greek inscription, in
perfect preservation. The Agha of the place rode about with me the
first time I was at Ephesus ; and imagined that every inscription
I copied, pointed out the situation or sum of a hidden treasure. The
bushes in the plain, among which are the Agnus castus, and Cen-
faurea hencdicfa, conceal many remains of antiquity. The Ephesians
were supplied with their marble from the hill (Prion) whereon part of
their city was built ; and porphyry and granite, of which, gigantic
specimens are lying in the plain, were brought up to the town by
means of the river, and by the canal, into the actual morass which
once formed the port.

" As you advance southward from Ephesus and Scala Nuova
(antiently Neapolis), the high mountain, Mycale, covered with
arbutus, wild-olive, and ilex (from which the peasants make charcoal),
presents itself; and soon after a lofty white summit is seen to the
south; this is the top of Mount Titanus, 'called now, from its form,

Bisher-

TO RHODES. 247

where the sea appears entirely land-locked ; as chap.
indeed it does for a very considerable distance ■ ^ ■

Jiisher-matli, Five-Jingers. The most commanding view of this was from
the Acropolis of Priene, from which I descended, on the south-east side,
by a way almost impassable, resting at times to contemplate the ruins
of the Temple of Minerva at Priene, and to cast my eyes over the Plain
of the Meander, towards the Lake of Myus, on the north-east side of
which rises Mount Titanus in all its majesty. In the " Ionian Anti-
quities," a minute detail of the architecture of the Temple of Minerva
has been published ; and in Chandler's " Inscriptions," a faithful copy
from the inscribed marbles that lie among the ruins. From the sum-
mit of the Acr<>polis of Priene I saw, to the south, the vast accretion of
land, marshy, and muddy, occasioned by the Meander. Priene, once
on the coast, was, in the time of Strabo, five miles from the sea.
I crossed the river, winding through tamarisks, in a triangular boat : its
breadth here was about thirty yards : at a later season of the year
I passed it again, higher up, in Caria, over a wooden bridge, sixty paces
long. From the summit of the Theatre of Miletus, facing the north-
wc;5t, is a good view of the mazes of the river. The distance of the
sea from the theatre I conjecture to be seven miles. The high moun-
tains which are to be passed in going from Miletus, and the site of
the Temple of Apollo, near the promontory Posidium, towards Jassus,
are also covered with arbutus, the dwarf oak, and the pine : those
mountains are the haunts of numerous beasts, particularly^ of the
jackal (called by the Turks, chical), which disturbed us in the night,
by its cries. The road is often cut through masses of slate ; some-
times it is paved : by the side of it are small huts, of wood, covered
with beughs, for the purpose of selling coffee to travellers, chiefly in
summer-time ; they are generally by the side of a running stream. The
soil was loose, and easily yielded to the plough. The quantity of
ground which might be brought into cultivation, for corn, or pasture
for cattle, is very great ; but it is neglected, from want of persons to
till it. The rain had now increased the torrents descending from the
mountains, so much, that it was quite dangerous to pass them. The
south-west brought with it rain; the north-east, a sharp cold air:
these two winds arc called by the Turks, Lodos, and Foreds ; names
borrowed from the Greek.

" The road leads on to Casikli for three hours, by the sea : you
then turn to the east, for the same time ; and reach Assum Uassus),

the

248 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, from the island, towards the north. One of the

Vil.

kihabitants, after we had landed, brought to us
a bronze medal of the island, with the head of
Hippocrates, and the word KHIIIN. It is the
more interesting, as few medals are now found
at Cos. We could neither procure nor hear of
a single one in silver. In other respects, the
island abounds in antiquities; but they are
scattered in such a confused manner, that
nothing decisive can be collected from their ap-
pearance. In the wall of the quay, facing the
port, we observed the colossal marble statue of

the f5ituation of which, in the recess of a hay, looking over olive-
grounds to the sea, and thence to the high mountains near Halicar-
nassus, is beautiful. To this last place, now called Bodntn, the road
led me through groves of myrtle, and ilex, by the sea-shore, for two
hours and a half. I shall here subjoin the distance of some of the
places on the coast.

Hours

From Priene to the Meander 3

To Acqui 1

To Ura (Temple of Apollo) "I

To Casikli Sg

To Assuni 6

" The direct route from this last place to Halicarnassus I cannot give
as I wish ; as we lost our way, going for three quarters of an hour
through a bay of the sea, up to the horses' girts ; and riding all the
day in rain, until half past nine, when the barking of dogs guided us
to a Turkish hut, where I slept : the next morning, at eight, I set
out again, passing some fluted columns ; and in a valley, some bee-
hives, made of earthen-ware, cylindrical, about two feet and a half
in height. Riding among mountains, I reached a colfee-hut at
Guverchin, by the shore, in a bay, running east and west; and in four
hours and a half arrived at Halicarnassus." If'alpolc's 31S. Jotirnaf.

TO RHODES. 249

a female, with drapery finely executed, but
the head, arms, and feet, had been broken
off. On the left-hand side of the gate by
which we entered the town, an Inscription re-
mains, in a high state of preservation, beginning-
ABOYAAKAIOAAMOS: this has already been
published by Spon and by other authors, and
therefore needs not to be inserted here.

A plane-tree, supposed, and perhaps with PianeXrco.
reason, to be the largest in the world, is yet
standing within the market-place. It was
described, as the famous plantain-tree, half a cen-
tury ago, by Egmont and Heyman \ It once
covered with its branches upwards of forty
shops; and enough is still remaining to astonish
all beholders. An enormous branch, extending
from the trunk almost to the sea, although
propped by antient columns of granite, gave
way and fell. This has considerably diminished
the effect produced by its beauty and prodigious
size. Its branches still exhibit a very remark-
able appearance, extending, horizontally, to a
surprising distance; supported, at the same
time, by granite and marble pillars found upon
the island. Some notion may be formed of the
time those props have been so employed, by

(l) Egmont dM^ Heyman' sTrvLXch, &.C. vol.!. p. 263.

250 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, the appearance of the bark; for this has actually
■ encased the extremities of the columns, and so
completely, that the branches and the pillars
mutually support each other: it is probable, if
those branches were raised, some of them
v/ould lift the pillars from the earth.

Beneath this tree, we observed a cylindrical
marble altar, adorned with rams' heads support-
ing festoons in relief, exactly like the altar from
Delos, engraved in Tournefort's Travels, and
lately presented by Mr. Harvey, of Jesus Col-
lege, Cambridge, to the Vestibule of the
University Library. Such altars are common in
the Levant; they are usually scooped, as this of
Cos has been, for mortars, to bruise corn '. Where
they cannot find altars for this purpose, they
employ the capitals of columns. Thus have
been preserved a few Grecian antiquities, which
otherwise would long ago have been converted
into lime. The inscription upon this altar was
very legible. Its antiquity may be noticed, al-
though its particular age cannot be ascertained,
bv the manner in which the fl is written. It

(l) Their dimensions are generally
measured.

the same.

This of Cos we

Fcft

Inrhes

Height . . . :i

. 6

Diameter . . '.'

. 8

TO RHODES. 251

was evidently a votive donation, given by the chap.
person whose name appears inscribed : '^ - y /

APOAAriNlOY

TOYAPOAAnNlOY

MATMHTOZ

Near the same place, another altar, and a few
marbles with imperfect inscriptions, migiit be
noticed, but none of them merit particular
description-. In the interior of the town, by a
public fountain, is a large cubic block of marble,
upon which the inhabitants are accustomed to
wash the bodies of dead persons. For this
reason, it was difficult to obtain their permission
to turn the stone, in search of an inscription;
and still more so, to copy the legend we there
found, when we had so done. At last, how-
ever, we succeeded in transcribing the follow-
ing characters : these form part of an inscription
in honour of some one who had filled the offices
of Agoranomos, of President of the Games, and
Gymnasiarch : he is celebrated for his piety

(2) It is very probable that these remains of votive offerings, and
the remarkable plnne-tree by which they are overshadowed, are so
many relics of the /isclepieum. — See the remarks made upon this
subject, during our second visit to Cos ; Section II. Part II. of these
Travels, Chap. \]U. p. 327. Broxhourn, I8li.

252 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, towards the Dii j4us:usti, and for his courteous-

VII. ^

V .y,. ■/ ness'" towards the College^.

ArOPANOMH:s:ANT
AArNnZArilNOOE T H
ZANTAEYZEBnSEni..
AHTEYZANTATUN
TAZZEBA2:TAZPEAXrEP.aN
EYAPEZTnxrYMNAZIAPXH
ZANTATIlNnPEZBYTEPIlN
ZEMNXIZAIATETAN
EZTOZOEOZXEBASTOS
EYZEBEIANKAIAI ATANEZ
TOZYZTAMA4^*IAO<|)POZY
NAN • EYNOI AZXAPI N

Two other Inscriptions were pointed out to us,
in the wall of a narrow street, by the French
Consul; a very intelligent man of the old
regime of France, who had suffered severely in
the oppression and cruelty, to which his situation
had exposed him, from the Turhish Government.
In the first, the Sigma is represented by three

(0 The word (pikof^o/rivn, although frequently translated friendship,
properly signifies what in Latin is called coniitas. Vid. Not. P'ale.iii
in Euseh. lib. vii. c. 22.

(2) The word corresponding to "Suirrtifia,, in Latin inscrijitions, is
Crev, as well as Collegium. Vid. Reincsii Jnscript. 2^.263.

VII.

TO RHODES. 253

sides of a square'; a circumstance characte- citai'.
rizing, perhaps, rather the country, than the age
of an inscription. It was very common among
the Dorian colonies settled in Asia Minor.

AIONY

c( ovno

AEUCKIi;

n N o n< o

NO MOY

The rounding of its angles introdsced the semi-
circular letter; but this was of remote antiquity,
and in use long prior to the age often assigned
to it ; as may be proved by manuscripts found
in Herailaneum, and by a fragment of the writings
of a very antient author, who compares the new
moon to the Sigma of the Greeks^.

(3) It is a curious fact, and perhaps a proof of the great antiquity of
the angular /Alphabet of the Greeks, that two or three of its characters,
in different positions, afford the whole. Indeed, as such a form of
writing must consist wholly of the same straight line, under different
circumstances of combination and position, every letter may be derived
from the sides of a square. The ci-yptography of the Moderns,
expressed by the four extended sides of a square, and with, or without
points, was in use among the Greeks.

(4) The late Professor Po»*ore used to cite the following fragment, as
proof of the antiquity of the Semicircular Sigma. Tzetzes in Commenta-
rio MS. in Hermogenem, quoted by Ruhnken, in his Notes on Longinus,
sect. 3. p. 135.

xaXsJv Tov; kl^ou; yr,; hoTa, rov; -rorafiovs, yis ^As/Saj*
u; Tr,* 2sX^w>iv ovgavou vtolXiv Ai<r^^iitv ffiyfta.
o'iStu ya^ X'i%t<nv auraTs alro; Air^^iuv Xtyii,
MHNH TO KAAON OTPANOT NCON CIFMA.

VII.

254 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP. The other Inscription is in the same wall,
and relates to gladiatorial and hunting sports,
exhibited by the persons mentioned in the in-
scription. The expression (^uuJxia, MovoyAy^ojv
occurs in an inscription found by Peyssonel at
Cyzicum. This " troop of gladiators" had fought
there, at the public games, when Aurelius Gratus
was Asiarch ^.

<|>AM I Al A MONO
M AXilNKAIVnO
MNHMAKYNHTE
ZIXINNEMEPIOY
KAZTPIKIOYHAKI?.
NIANOYASIAPXOY
KAIAYPHAIAZ
Z A n<|)OYZn AA
TUNOZAI Kl N N I A
NHZA PXI EPEI HZ
TYN Al KOZAYTOY

All these islands, and the neighbouring coast
of Asia Minor, produced illustrious men. Samos

On which RuhnTien remarks : " Pro fflynttc, v. 3, et 5. scribendum
tlyfiM. Sic enim jEschrion novam lunam vocabat a figure Sigmatis
Graeci C. Ex quo loco refellitur, quod Is. Vossius et Ez. Spanhemius
statuebant, banc sigrnatis figuram serius in Graecorura consuetudinem
venisse. Nam ^schrion, sive Saraius sit, siveMitylenaeus, certfevetus-
tus scriptor est." Vide Jonsium de Script. Hist. Phil. ii. 2. p.l2'i.
(l) Recueil d'Antiquites, torn. II. p. 219. Par. 1T56.

TO RHODES. 255

gave birth to Pythagoras. Cos had her Ape lies; <^"^^-
and Hippocratesy whose tables of medical cases
were consulted by the inhabitants of all the
neighbouring states. It would have been well
for many individuals of our army and navy,
if the rules of Hippocrates respecting diet had
been observed by them during the time they
remained exposed to the climate of the Levant.
He prohibited the use of eggs ; which, when
taken as an article of food, are extremely dan-
gerous to the health of Englishmen who \isit
the eastern shores o^ iho, Mediterranean''-.

We set out upon asses, accompanied by
guides, to ascend the heights of the island, and
view the fountain whence the town is still sup-
plied with water, by means of an aqueduct. It
is upon a mountain about three miles from the
shore, and still bears the name of Hippocrates.
The cover of the 'aqueduct is broken, in many
places, by the women of the island, in procuring
water to wash their linen. As we ascended.

(2) Professor Pallas, writings from the Crimea, when we were about
to sail from Constantinople for the Grecian Isles, g'ave us this caution :
*' Have a cure of the three poisons : eggs, butter, and milk!" — We
were afterwards witness to the loss of a British officer (among many
other examples of a similar nature), who, after persisting in the use of
eggs for his breakfast, was seized with a fever off the coast of Egypt,
became delirious, and, during the night, leaped from his cabin into
the sea, and was drowned.

VOL. III. R

256 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, -^yg iiad a fine prospect of the numerous adjacent
islands, and of the opposite coast of Halicar-
nassus, now called BMrun\ We followed the

(l) " If any doubt should exist whether BUdrrln were the antient
Halicarnassus, or not, it might be removed at once by this circum-
stance : Strabo points out the situation of the island Arconnesus ; and
the small island opposite the fort of B6dr6n is now called ArconSso.
The general appearance of the place, moreover, ag;rees with'' the
detailed description Vitruvius has given us of the situation of Halicar-
nassus, in his second book. The entrance to the port of B{ldriin is
from the south-west : on the right and left, as you enter, sand has
accumulated, and the free passage is not more than sixty yards wide :
on the north-west side many Greeks and Turks were at work, employed
in building a line-of-battle ship : this I went to see. The Turk who
conducted me over the vessel had been in Egypt at the time when our
navy was there, and mentioned the names of some of the officers. The
palace of Halil-bey, the Governor, stands by the sea-side, on the north
of the port ; and directly opposite stands the Castle of BftdrCm ; and
round the harbour the town extends, in a circular sweep, for nearly
half a mile.

" Bftdrftn is a corruption, through Petrumi, as the Turks write it,
frotu Pietro. The Fort of San Pietro, Castellum Sancti Petri, (see the
Geography of Niger, 441) was taken by Philibert de Nailar, Grand-
Master of Rhodes, and followed the fortunes of this island. It con-
tinued iu possession of th^ Knights until, as the Turkish annals inform
us, it was surrendered to the Ottomans, with Cos and Rhodes, in'the
«29th year of Hegira, and 1522 A.C. * Cum Rhodo Turd arcem Stan-
coin et Bedrum aliam arcem in /Jnatolid sitam in potestatem redegire?
Leunclavius, p. 342.

" Few travellers, I believe, have been able to examine the inside of
the Castle of BCidrCin. I had entered, and advanced some way, when
I was obliged to return, by order of a Turk who made his appearance ;
but not before I had taken the following notes.

In the first court, coming from the town, I saw some marble bas-
reliefs, fastened in the wall, in its construction. Their manner and
style were very good; but one in particular struck me : it represents,
on the right hand, a man on horseback, with a cloak round his neck,
like that on the figure on the lamp engraven by Beger, in his Letter

VII.

TO RHODES. 257

course marked out by the aqueduct, all the way chap.
to the top of the mountain, where the spring

to Spanheim : he is throwing a javelin against another, who is at the
head of the horse with a shield : on the left of the stone is the foot of
a man upon the body of another, who is supporting himself on his left
knee. In the wall by the sea, washing the sides of the castle, is an
imperfect Inscription, relating to Antoninus Pius :

KAISAPIAAPIANXlIANTXlNEINXllSEBAXTniKAIQEOlSSEBASTOIS
" Not far from this, is the headless statue of a Roman Emperor or
warrior. Over a gate in the castle I copied the following lines, in
capital letters, with a stop after each word. The two first lines are
taken from the anthem after the Nunc Dimitds, in Complin, or the
Night Prayers of the Roman Church. The two last are taken from
the 127th Psalm.

I. H. S.

Salva nos, Domine, vigilantes,

Ciistodi nos dormientes:

Nisi Dominus eustodierit civitatem,

Frustra vigilat qui custodit earn.

" Coats of arms, of different knights of the order of St. John, may be
seen sculptured in parts of the fortress. Coronelli says, that over a
gate was written Propter Jidem Catholicam tenemus istum locum ; and,
in another place, the word Sareuhoure, with the date 1130; this
points to an aera prior to that of the Knights of Jerusalem, who did
not possess it till the fourteenth century. Whence the bas-reliefs in the
castle came ; to what building they belonged ; whether to the Palace
of Mausolus, built on this spot, according to the description of Vitru-
vius, and beautified with marble {proconnesio marmore), or to some
building of the time of Antoninus, to whom the Inscription was
raised, cannot be determined. I was copying another Inscription,
beginning OENAONEPXOMENOS, of a very late date, when I was obliged
to quit the castle.

*' The situation of the famous Mausoleum in Halicarnassus is pointed
out by Vitruvius. It seems to have been standing in the time of Pau-
sanias, lib. viii. The words of Constantine Porphyrogenetes, de Them.
c. 14, do not directly inform us whether it was extant when he wrote.
Perhaps the Saracen, Mavias, who succeeded Othman, and who, as the
same Constantine informs us, laid waste Halicarnassus, {de Admin, Imp.)

11 'Z niay

258 FROM THE HELLESPONT

rises. Some plants were then in bloom, but the
season was not so forward as we expected'; and

may have hastened the destruction of this building. We 6nd
Lorenzo Anania, in his Cosmography, Venet. 1576, writing of it in
these terms : ' Appare ancora qualche ruina con non poca maraviglia dei
risguardanti ;' but it does not appear upon what authority this is
stated. Without offering any conjecture, I shall describe what
remains of antiquity 1 observed here. Those who wish to see the form
of the antient Mausoleum, may consult the twenty-sixth volume of the
Acad, des Inscriptions, where Caylus has attempted a delineation of it,
from Pliny.

" About four hundred yards from the castle, to the east, are six
Doric columns, fluted, supporting an architrave : the ground seems to
have been raised round about them, as they are little more than seven
feet in height. In the yard of a Turk's house, close by, are some
fragments of pillars, fluted ; and, what is very singular, in the fluted
parts are large Greek letters, beautifully cut.

" I copied, on one, the words Xx^iSyifiov, 'ASwo^ti^ou, and fia^irou, part
probably of the name Demaratus ; who were, doubtless, persons com-
memorated in this manner. In this instance, the pillar bearing the
names is circular ; but the Athenians were accustomed to inscribe
square pillars to the memory of wise and virtuous men, in large letters.
Hence a man of probity among them was termed nrg^ayuvo; ur/i^.

" I traced the antient walls of the city of Halicarnassus for some
distance, beginning with what might have been an acropolis ; for the
city had more than one acropolis, as we learn from Strabo, andDiodorus
(lib. xvii. ax^o'^oXio-i aaXcus). This wall I followed in a western direc-
tion, between a small and a large mound, for about a hundred and
thirty feet : it then turned in a north-east direction, and afterwards
north. One of the ruined square towers, built of stone, without cement
on the outside, and filled within with earth, is thirty feet high. I saw
four more, communicating with each other by an interval of wall.
These are what Diodorus, writing of Halicarnassus, calls «6^yoi^
and fiiaovv^ym. Near the rained square tower I saw some of the vaults
of the old city, and copied some inscriptions relating to them. In the
town are to be seen altars of marble, with the usual ornament of the
festoon with rams' heads.

■ " The fast of the Ramadan was not quite over when I was at B6driUi.
The opulent Turks were sitting, in the day-time, counting their beads,

and

TO RHODES. 259

we afterwards observed, that, even in Efryht, a chap.

^' VII.

botanist will find few specimens for his herbary ^

and the hours anxiously until sunset. The caravanserai I lived in was
occupied partly by Jews : it was not to be compared in size with other
buildings of the kind which I had seen in Asia. In some of these, the
pillars supporting the galleries are colunuis of antient edifices : as, for
instance, at Melaso, the antient Mylasa.

" I went over to Cos from Halicaruassus, the twenty-eighth of
November, in a Turkish passage-boat, which sails every day, if the
weather is fine. In the bottom of the boat sat some Turkish women,
of whose bodies nothing was to be seen, but the extremities of tlieir
fingers, dyed red. The east side of the island of Cos is mountainous :
close to the town are orange and lemon plantations : from these the
fruit is exported in abundance to all jiarts of the Archipelago. The
island has_ suffered occasionally from earthquakes ; particularly from
one at the end of the fifteenth century, as Bosio informs us ; and one
in the time of Antoninus entirely destroyed the town, as we learn from
Pausanias, (lib. viii.) which however was restored, at great expense,
by the Emperor, who sent a colony there. This circumstance of the
destruction of the town may lead us to suspect the antiquity of the
monuments of art now to be seen there; and, indeed, many of the
inscriptions are of a late age ; they are all in Doric : this was the
dialect of Cos and Halicarnassus ; but although it was the native
language of Herodotus and Hippocrates, they preferred the open
vowels of Ionia. In an inscription near the castle and a mosque, I
observed T02©E022EBA2T02 ; this form may be also seen in the
monuments, in Doric, published by Gruter (:>Qo) and ChishuU. The
use of the O for the OT lasted, in ihe. other dialects of Greece, from the
time of Cadmus to the Macedonian ffira. {Taylor ad Mar. Sa7i.)
There are many bas-reliefs to be seen in the streets and in the houses
of the town. Porcacchi, in his Description of the Archipelago, says of
Cos, 'Ha molti iwbili edi/izi di marmo anticJii ;' but of these no
vestige is extant; Votive-offerings in honour of i^sculapius, whose
temple, according to Strabu, stood in the suburb, may be observed.
Near a mosque is a cylindrical piece of marble, with four sculptured
figures, dancing, winged, and holding a wreath of flowers. A plane-
tree, twenty-seven feet in circumference, whose branches are supported
by seven columns, stands near the walls of the castle. Hasselquist,

the

260 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, before the latter end of April, or beginning of
>- V -' May. At length we reached the entrance of

the naturalist, says, ' I imagine, in seeing it, to have beheld the
largest, oldest, and most remarkable inhabitant of the vegetable
kingdom : it has forty-seven branches, each a fathom thick.'

" I rode to a village two hours and a half distant from the town,
called Affendiou, perhaps the Standio of Porcacchi : on the road I
copied many Greek inscriptions. In returning to the town by a
different direction, we came to a source of cold mineral water: at
half an hour's distance from this, above in the rock, is a source of hot
water, where there are remains of basins, wherein those who used the
water were accustomed to bathe. J n half an hour more we came to
the place called the Fountain of Hippocrates : a light was procured,
and we walked into a passage fifty yards in length, six feet high, and
four wide : at the bottom ran a stream of water, in a channel live
inches broad : we reached, at last, a circular chamber, ten feet in
diameter ; this is built quite near the source. The water running
from beneath the circular chamber, through the channel, is conveyed,
as soon as it reaches the open air, by another channel, covered with
tile and stone, over a space of grqund t<iual to four miles, and sup-
plies the town of Cos.

" The road fron» Affendiou to the town is very striking. The
fertility of the island is celebrated now in the Levant, as in the days of
Strabo, who calls it iuKa^vos -. and the language of Thevet would have
appeared perfectly correct, if I had been there at a different season of
the year : £!t pense que souhz le del n'y a lieu plaisant que. celuy la,
veu les ieaux jar dins si oderi/erans, que vous diriez que c'est un Paradis
ierrestre, et la cu les oisenux de toutes sortes recreent de Icur ramage.'
See bis Cosmography, 229.

" Whilst I was at Cos, I took a boat, and went to see what I suppose
to be the Ruins of Myndus ; where, among other interesting remains,
is a long jettee of stones, parallel to each other, and principally of
thirteen feet in length, connecting an island to the main land. 1 went
also to the Ruins of Cnidijs, at Cap Crio. It was the first of Pecember ;
and we had hardly time to enter one of the small harbours of Cnidus,
when a gale from the south-west, the wind usual at this time of the
year, began to blow. ' The Libs, or Soutk-West,' says Theophrastus,
[de Ventis, 413,) * is very violently felt at Cnidus and Rhodes;' and
one of the harbours of Cnidus is open to this quarter. There is no

villa" e

TO RHODES. 201

a cave, formed, with great art, partly in the soHd chap.
rock, and partly with stone and stucco, in the ' ^-^

village or appearance of habitation uow at Cnidus. I lay in the open
boat all night, and the Turkish sailors in a cave on shore. The
following are the remains of antiquity I observed there.

" On the left-hand side of the harbour, as you enter from Cos, upon
a platform, are the lower parts of the shafts of eleven fluted columns,
standing, and of very small dimensions : around the platform is a
ruined wall : a sort of quay was formed round this port, as may be
inferred from the stone-wori<. Beyond the fluted columns are vaults
of very modern work, and vestiges of buildings : these may be ascribed
to the time when the Knights of St. John were at Rhodes, and had
stations on the coast of Asia, in this part. Passing on eastward, you
come to the Theatre, facing the south-west, with thirty-six rows
of seats of marble ; part of the proscenium ; two vaults, opposite
each other ; and in the area of the theatre the mutilated statue of a
■woman, iu drapery : the head of this, a« one of the Turkish boatmen
informed me, had been taken to a neighbouring village, to be hollowed
for a mortar. On the level summit of the hill over the theatre, and
commanding a view of the sea, are very large remains of a temple :
the side of the hill is faced with stone : the ground is covered with
fragments of white marble columns with Ionic capitals. I measured
one of the columns ; this was, in diameter, three feet and a half. The
Cnidians had, according to Pausanias, many temples of Venus ; and
we may conjecture this to have been the site of one. Below the hill
is a large area ; and under it a larger still. An isthmus separates the
small port, wherein I anchored, from a larger harbour. Followinj^
this neck of land, in a westerly direction, you reach the other part of
the town, opposite to that where the theatre and public buildings were
situate. A bridge, says Pausanias, once formed the communication
from one side to the other. There are extensive foundations lying to
the east of the theatre and temple ; but I was not able to find any
inscription or money of the antient city. The earthenware of Cnidus
is praised by Atheuteus (lib. i.) ; and the calami or reeds, which grew
here, were the best, says Pliny, after those of Egypt. The use of
reeds for writing prevails now, as formerly, all over the East ; and
they are prepared as in antient times. ' With a knife,' says Salmasius,
* the reed was slit into two points ; hence, in an epigram, we find,
xci'Ka.fJt.ot tiairotat liciyXuTrrct xi^dtffft, calami in duos apices scissi.' Ad
Sulinum." fViiljWln'.s MS. Journal.

262 FROM THE HELLESPONT

€HAP. side of the mountain. Within this cave is an
^. .y,../ arched passage ; at the bottom of which the
water flows through a narrow channel, as clear
as crystal. It conducts to a lofty vaulted
chamber, cut in the rock, and shaped like a
bee-hive, with an aperture at the top, admitting
air and light from the surface of the mountain.
We proceeded, with lighted tapers, to this
curious cavern, and tasted the water at its source.
It is a hot spring, with a chalybeate flavour,
gushing violently from the rock into a small
bason. In its long course through the aqueduct,
although it flow with great rapidity, it becomes
cool and refreshing before it reaches the town,
and perhaps owes something of its great
celebrity to its medicinal properties. The work
constructed over it may be as old as the age of
Hippocrates ; setting aside all the notions enter-
tained concerning the supposed epocha of domes
and arches. That in an island, famous for
having produced the father of Medicine, the
principal object of curiosity, still bearing a
traditionary reference to his name, should be
a warm chalybeate spring, is a remarkable
circumstance.

Descending from this fountain, we saw, for
the first time, the Date-tree, growing in its
natural state. A few of these trees may be

TO RHODES. 263

noticed in oardens about the town. Lemons chap.

VII.

were very abundant ; but oranges not so com- ■
mon. We purchased the former at the rate of
about three shiHings for a thousand, notwith-
standing the very great demand then made for
them to supply the Brituh fleet. The island of
Cos is very large, and for the most part consists
of one barren mountain of limestone; of which
substance almost all the Grecian Islands are
composed. There are few parts of the world
where masses of limestone are seen of equal
magnitude and elevation. Some of the principal
mountains exhibit no other kind of stone, from
their bases to their summits. The Greek sailors
of our vessel, who accompanied us upon this
expedition, caught several land-tortoises ; which,
being opened, were found to be full of eggs.
The sailors described them as the most deli-
cious food in the counti*y. Small vessels,
freighted with these animals, go to supply the
markets of Constantinople. We saw the process
of cooking and dressing them, after we returned
on board; but could not so far abandon our
prejudices as to eat them.

A poor little shopkeeper in Cos had been Crrccic
mentioned, by the French Consul, as possessor sciins.
of several curious old books. We therefore
went to visit him; and were surprised to find

264 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, him, in the midst of his wares, with a red

VII.

■ night-cap on his head, reading the Odyssey of

Homer in manuscript. This was fairly written
upon paper, with interUneary criticisms, and a
commentary in the margin. He had other manu-
script volumes, containing works upon rhetoric,
poetry, history, and theology. Nothing could
induce him to part with any of these books.
The account he gave was, that some of them
were copies of originals in the library at Patmos,
and that his father had brought them to Cos.
They were intended, he said, for his son, who
was to be educated in the Patmos monastery.

We were not permitted to enter the castle :
this is close to the town of Stanchio, on the sea-
shore, fortified by a moat upon the land side.
Taking the small boat belonging to our vessel,
we examined the outside of its walls towards
the sea; and here we had the satisfaction to
Bcamifui discover one of the finest bas-reliefs perhaps

Piece of J r i

antient evcr scen. It was employed by the Genoese as
part of the building materials in the construction
of the castle ; and, being of great length, it was
broken into four pieces, which are placed in the
wall ; two above, and two below ', facing the

(l) The removal of this valuable relic, to any of the Museums of
Europe, must he a desirable object with every civilized nation. It is
an honour reserved for some more-favoured adventurers. The only

power

TO RHODES. 265

sea. The subject seems to be the Nuptials of ciiap.

Bacchus. It contains fifteen figures, although ' , '

some are nearly efi'aced. Amono* these, the
principal is a bearded figure, sitting with a
trident or sceptre in his right hand, and leaning
upon his left elbow. By his left side sits also
a female, holding in her left hand a small statue :
the base of this rests upon her knee. She is
covered with drapery, executed in the highest
style of the art of sculpture, and extends her
right arm around the neck of the bearded figure ;

power we possessed of adding to the stock of our national literary trea-
sures, was due to our industry alone. The aid our national situation,
with regard to Turkey, might then have afforded, was studiously
withheld. An absolute proliibition was enforced, respecting the
removal of any of the Antiquities of the country, excepting by the
agents of our own Ambassador at the Porte. Sir TV. Gell, author of
" The Topography of Troy," &c. was actually prohibited making
drawings within the Acropolis of Mhens. While we must lament the
miserable policy of such a measure, and a loss affecting the public,
rather than ourselves as individuals, we can only add, that ever}'
exertion is now making towards rescuing from destruction, not only the
valuable monument here alluded to, but also many other important
objects of acquisition lying scattered over the desolated territories of
the Turkish Empire. To a British Minister at the Porte, their
removal and safe conveyance to England would be the work merely
of a wish expressed upon the subject to the Capiulan Pasha , and for
the measures necessary in removing them from their present place,
no injury would be sustained by the Fine Arts, in the dilapidation of
any Grecian building. — English travellers, distinguished by their
talents, illustrious in their rank, and fortunate in their wealth, are
now traversing those regions, to whom every instruction has been given
that may facilitate and expedite their researches : it is hoped success
will attend their promised endeavours to enrich their nation by thft
possession of such valuable documents.

266 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, her hand hanging negligently over his right
V -V / shoulder. They are delineated sitting upon a
rock. By the right side of this groupe stands
a male figure, naked ; and upon the left, a female,
half clothed, presenting something, inform like an
antient helmet. Before them, female Bacchanals
are introduced, singing, or playing upon musical
instruments. In the lower fragments of this ex-
quisite piece of sculpture are seen Satyrs pouring
wine from skins into a large vase. Others are
engaged in seizing an animal, as a victim for
sacrifice : the animal has the appearance of a
tiger, or a leopard '. These beautiful remains of
Grecian sculpture may have been brought from
HalicarnassuSy Cnidus, or one of those other cities
of^^za ilfmor where the art attained to such high
perfection ; or they may have all resulted from
the destruction of some magnificent edifice by
which the island was formerly adorned. Columns
of cipolino, breccia, and granite^ together with
masses of the finest marble, either upon the shore,
or in the courts and inclosures belonging to the
inhabitants, or used in constructing the walls
of the town and fortress, in the public fountains.

(l) We also saw here the remains of a sculptured 7uarble frieze,
exhibiting festoons supported by antient masks. The principal part
of it is in the land side of the castle, over the entrance, where may
also be observed part of a CorintJdan cornice of the finest workmanship.

TO RHODES. 267

mosques, mortars, and grave-stones, the pave- ^y^y^'
ment of baths, and other modern works, denote * — /-— '
the ruin that has taken place, and the immense
quantity of antient materials here employed.
The mosque of the town of Stanchio is built
entirely of marble.

The voyage from Cos to Rhodes, like that Voyage
which has been already described, resembles Rhodes.
more a pleasing excursion in a large river, than
in the open sea. The Mediterranean is here so
thickly studded with islands, that the view is
everywhere bounded by land^ We steered
close round the Triopian Promontory, now
called Cape Crio ; and, having doubled it, be-
held, towards the west and south-west, the
islands of Nisyros and Telos, whose modern
names are Nizary and Piscopy. According to
Strabo, Nisyros antiently possessed a temple of
Neptune^. We afterwards obtained a most
interesting view, from the deck, of the Ruins of Jf"'"* "^
Cnidus, a city famous in having produced the
most-renowned sculptors and architects of
Antient Greece. The Turks and Greeks have
long resorted thither, as to a quarry, for the

(2) Called Sporades, from the irregularity in which they are here
scattered. Some of them are uot laid down in any chart.

(3) Slrab.G&ogr. lib. x. p. 714. Ed. O.ion.

2G8 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, buildiiio* materials afforded by its immense

VII. , ^ _ ''

^ I—,- .<^ remains. With the aid of our telescopes, we
could still discern a magnificent theatre almost
entire, and many other mouldering edifices.
This city stood on the two sides of an antient
mole, separating its two ports, and connecting
the Triopian land, in Strahos time an island,
with the continent'.

Visited by (i) We are indebted for the information which follow;, concerning
Halicarnassus and Cnidus, together with the Plan which accompanies
it, to the observations of Mr. Morrttt ; celebrated for his controversy
with Mr. Bryant, on the subject of Homer's Poems and the Existence
of Troy. It is the mure valuable, because few modern travellers
have visited these Ruins ; and certainly no one better qualified for
the undertakipoj.

" 14th June, 1795. — We set out in a boat from Cos. and in a few
hours reached Boudroun, the antient Halicarnassus, a distance of
eighteen computed Turkish miles. This small town stands on a shallow
bay, at the eastern extremity of the large and deep port of the antient
city. Off this bay lies the island mentioned in Strabo, by the name of
Arconnesos, ' A^xinvifis, (lib. xiv. p. 656.) The houses are iri-egularly
scattered on the shore, and interspersed with gardens , burying-grounds,
and cultivated fields. We lodged at a large khan near the bazar, which
is marked in the delineation given in Choiseul's Voyage Pittoresqiie
(PI. 96. p. 152.) Several Turkish vessels were at anchor in the i^ort ;
and the disorderly conduct of the crews at night made the houses of the
Greeks uncomfortable, and indeed unsafe places of residence. Pistol-
balls were at night so often fired at their windows, that they were obliged
to barricade those of their sleeping rooms ; and the outward windows of the
khan had been carefully walled up, for the same reason. We, soon after
our arrival, crossed some gardens behind the town, to view the remains of
an antient edifice which is on the north-east side of it. We found six
columns of the fluted Doric, supporting their architrave, mutilated frieze,
and cornice. The marble of which they are made is of a dark grey
colour, with a few white veins ; nor is the masonry of the same work-
manship

TO RHODES.

569

Prom our distant vaew of the place, being citAP.
about two leagues from the entrance of its ^^'"
southern and larger port, the hill whereon its

manship with the remains we had elsewhere found of the finer ages of
Greece. The forms of the stones and junctures of the building are
more slovenly and inaccurate, and the architecture is not of the same
elegant proportions with the earlier Doric buildings at Athens, and in
Magna Grajcia. The intercolumniations are much greater, and the
entablature heavier, and with less relief and projection. The lower
parts of the columns are buried in earth ; and near them are two or
t^ee plain sarcophagi, of ordinary work, and without inscriptions.
Broken stumps of columns, in a line with those which are standing, and
many ruined fragments of marble, are scattered over the field. From the
length of the colonnade, and the disappearance of all the corresponding
columns of the peristyle, if this be supposed to have been a temple,
I should hesitate to adopt the conjecture. It appeared to me the remains
of a stoa, or portico, and probably ranged along one side of the antient
Agora of the town. It agrees in many respects with the situation
assigned to the Agora by Vitruvius ; as it would be on the right of a
person looking from tlie modern fortress, where stood the antient castle
and palace of Mausolus, at the eastern horn of the greater port ; while
the smaller port formed by the island of Arconnesus would be on the
left, in which order Vitruvius seems to place them. A quantity of
marble is dug up near these ruins, the remains of other magnificent
buildings. The walls are visible from hence through a great part of
their extent, which appears to have been about six English miles from the
western horn of the port, along high grounds to a considerable eminence
north-west of this ruin, and thence to the eastern promontory on which
the modem castle is built. On the eminence, which I noticed, are
traces of antient walls, indicating the- situation of the fortress called the
Arx Media by Vitruvius, wherein stood the Temple of Mars ; but of
that, or indeed of the fortress itself, there are but indistinct remains, so
that we could not ascertain the position of the temple. At the foot of
this hill remains the antient theatre, fronting the south : it is scooped in
the hill, and many rows of marble seats are left in their places. The
arcades of communication, and the proscenium, are in ruins. IHany
large caverns are cut in the hill behind the theatre, probably places of

sepulture,

270 FROM THE HELLESPONT

cMvr. ruins stood seemed to rise from the sea in form
of a theatre. Straho notices this form, as cha-
racterizing the land on the western side of tlie

sepulture, from their appearance ; but their contents have been long ago
carried away. The modern castle stands on a tongue of land at tlie
eastern extremity of the port, which it commanded ; and, from the antient
materials used in its construction, appears to have been formerly a fortress
commanding the port ; and here, as I suppose, was one of the Citadels
mentioned by Strabo, who says expressly, that when Alexander took the
town, there were /2t'o, Qittvi'S rivly.il'jn, lib. xiv. p. C57.) At the western
extremity of the bay, the situation of the Aga's house and harem pre-
vented our researches. Here was the fountain Salmacis, the temples of
Venus and Mercuiy, and the an^a, y.xXovfiUn 'Sa.Xju.dxi; mentioned by
An-ian (Ub. i. p. 25. de Exped. Alexand.) the second Acropolis of
Strabo, in which the Persians took refuge, as well as in that on the
island, when the town had been carried by the attack of Alexander on the
land side. Arriau also notices the third Acropolis, the Arx iledia of
Vitruvius, on the eminence behind the tlieatre, axaav t«v t^oi 'iAvXamsat
ftuXmra, rir^afi/iivriv, tlic fortress that looked towards Mylassa, near the
wall where the Blacedonians made one of their assaults upon tlie city.
Diodorus Siculus mentions this fortress as the ax^otroXis, Acropolis,
(Ub. xvii. p. 178. vol.11. Wesseling.) From liis \\Titings, or at least
from the same source. Anian seems to have collected most of the details
of Alexander's famous siege. The citadel and fountain of Salmacis on
the western horn, and that on the island of Arconnesus, continued to
resist the Macedonians after the Arx Media and the city were destroyed.
They probably therefore were the double Acropolis mentioned by Strabo ;
but the third is ceitainly mentioned both by Diodorus, Arrian, and
Vitruvius ; and as certainly its remains are seen behind the theatre,
tliough Choisetd considers the Acropolis here as only meaning an
elevated part of the city, a mode of expression not at all usual to Greek
writers.

" 15th June. — We tried to procure permission from the Disdar, the
Turkish Governor of the Castle, to see the interior of tliat fortress ; but
after a long negotiation, we were at last only permitted to walk with a
Janissary round the outward ramparts, his jealousy not permitting the

I inner

ir.nitt ,U^

Tuhliifiai UrtvS^ iai2.fnT.(h,Ml Srir.l\wLi..

TO RHODES. 271

mole, not' included in the view then presented chap.
to us. According to the valuable observations
of Mr. Morritt, given below, in an extract from

uiner gates to be opened into the court. The castle is a work of modem
date, but built, in a great degree, of antient materials, confusedly put
together in the walls. There is a plate which gives a correct notion of
its general appearance, in the Voyage Pittoresque. We found over the
door an ill-carved lion, and a mutilated bust of antient work. Old
coats-of-arms, the remains probably of the Crusaders, and the Knights of
St. John of Rhodes, are mixed in the walls %vith many precious fragments
of the finest periods of Grecian art. There are several pieces of an antient
frieze, representing the Combats of Thr - nd the Amazons, of which
the design and execution are equal to th Lord Elgin brought over

fr -n the Parthenon. These are stuck in the wall, some of them reversed,
• jme edgewise, and some which have probably been better preserved by
having the curved side towards the wall, and inserted in it. Xo entreaties
nor bribes could procure these, at the time we were abroad ; but now, if thej
eould be procured, they would form, I think, a most valuable supplement
to the monuments already brought hither from Athens. From my
recollection of them, I should say they were of a higher finish, rather
better preserved, and the design of a date somewhat subsequent to those
of Phidias, the proportions less massive, and the forms of a softer, more
flowing, and less severe character. It is probable that these beautiful
marbles were taken from the celebrated Mausoleum : of this, however,
no other remains are discoverable in those parts of the town we were
permitted to examine. I found an Inscription this day, near a fountain
in the town, containing hexameter and pentameter lines, on the conse-
cration, or dedication, of some person to Apollo.

" 16th June. — We examined the general situation of the town : this
is already described, and we searched in vain for traces of the INIauso.
leum. The view of Cos and of the gulph are beautiful ; and there is a
picturesque little port behind the Castle, to the east, shut in by the rock
of the Arconnesus. This was the little port seen from the palace of die
Carian Kings, which stood in the old Acropolis, where the Castle now
is; although Arrian places this Acropolis (<» t^ vsjVa*) on the island itself.

" 25th June. — We again set off early; and doubling the western point
of our little harbour as the day broke, we saw, in another small creek,
VOL. III. S

vir.

272 FROM THE HELLESPONT

CHAP, his Manuscript Journal, the mole is now become
J an isthmus ; connecting the Triopian Promontory

a few remains of ruined walls, the vestiges of the antient Bargasa,
enumerated by Strabo after Keramos, in his description of the gulph»
With some trouble, after standing northward for some hours, we
doubled Cape Crio, under a very heavy swell, and soon ran before the
wind into the southern harbour of Cnidus : at the mouth of this we
moored, under a rocky shore, near the eastern extremity of the city walls.
Some large stones, which have served for the foundation of a tower, are
still seen on the edge of the sea. Mounting the rock, extending along
tiie sliore, we came in view of tlie broken cliffs of the Acropolis, and its
ruined walls. The foundation and lower courses of the city walls are
also visible : these extend from those of the Acropolis to the sea, and
have been strengthened by towers, now also in ruins. Above us, we
found a building {See B. of Uie Plan) whose use I am unable to explain.
It was a plain wall of brown stone, with a semicircle in the centre, and
a terrace in front, supported by a breast-work of masonry, facing the
sea. The wall was about ten or twelve feet in height, solidly built of
hewn stone, but without ornament. We now turned westward, along
the shore. The hill on our right was a steep slope, covered with old
foundations and traces of buildings : behind these rose the rocky points
and higher eminences, where the Acropolis is situate. We sooa came
to the Theatre, whereof the marble seats remain, although mixed with
bushes, and overturned. The arches and walls of the Proscenium ai-e
now a heap of ruins on the ground. A large torso of a fettiale figure
with drapery, of white marble, lies in the orchestra. It appeared of good
work originally, but is so mutilated and corroded by the air as to be of
little or no consequence. Near tliis are the foundations and ruins of
a magnificent Corinthian temple, also of white marble ; and several
beautiful fragments of the frieze, cornice, and capitals, lie scattered about
the few bases of the peristyle, remaining in their original situation. It
is so ruined, that it would be, I believe, impossible to ascertain the ori.
ginal form and proportions of the building. We left the isthmus that
divides the two harbours on our left ; and on the eastern shore of the
north harbour came to a still larger Corinthian temple, also in ruins, and
still more overgrown with bushes. The frieze and cornice of this temple,
wliich lie amongst the ruins, are of the highest and most beautiful work-
mamhip. A little to the north of this stood a smaller temple, of grey

veined

TO RHODES. 273

and the land to the eastward of it, once an chap.
island, with the Asiatic continent. The English

Veined marble, whereof almost every vestige is obliterated. We now
turned again eastward towards the Acropolis. Several arches of rough
masonry', and a breast-work, support a large square area, probably the
antient Agora, in which are the remains of a long colonnade, of white
marble, and of the Doric order, the ruins of an antient Stoa. Here also
is the foundation of another small temple. On the north of this area
a broad street ran from the port towards the Acropolis, terminating near
the port, in an arched gateway of plain and solid masonry. Above this
are the foundations of houses on platforms rising towards the outward
vaUs ; traces of a cross street near the Theatre ; and the Acropolis, of
which nothing is left but a few ruined walls of strong brown stone, the
same used for the substructions of the platforms into which the hill is
cut. A few marbles, grooved to convey water from the hill of the Acro-
polis, are scattered on part of this ground ; and we could trace the covered
conduits of marble wherein it had been conveyed. We now descended
again to the isthmus that separates the two harbours. In Strabo's time
it was an artificial mole, over a narrow channel of the sea ; and the
western part of the town stood on an island united by this isthmus to the
continent. An arch still remains in the side of it, probably a part of this
mole ; but the ruins which have fallen, with the sand that has accumu-
lated on each side of it, have formed a neck of land here, about sixty or
seventy yards across. The port on the north, as Strabo tells us, was shut
by flood-gates ; and two towers are still to be traced, at the entrance to
which the gates were fixed. It contained, he says, twenty triremes. The
southern port is much larger, and protected from tlie open sea by a mole
of large rough-hewn stones, which still remains. Beyond the ports, to
the west, the town rose on a hill -. the form of this Strabo compares to
thatr of a theatre, bounded from the mole on the south by steep preci-
pices of rock, and on the north by walls descending from the ridge to
the gates of the northern harbour, in a semicircular sweep. On this
side of the town we found the old foundations of the houses, but no
temples nor traces of ornamental buildings, and no marble. The
circuit of the walls is perhaps three miles, including the two ports within
them. A reference to the annexed Plan will give a clearer view of the
situation than I am able to affoi-d by description only." (See the PTan
annexed.) Mori-itt'f US. Journal.

S 2

274 FROM THE HELLESPONT

^y^j^' Consul at Rhodes afterwards informed us, that

— ' a fine colossal marble statue was still standing
in the centre of the orchestra belonging to the
Theatre, the head of which the Turks had broken
off; but that he well remembered the statue in
its perfect state. This is evidently the same
liflvlF which is alluded to by Mr. Morritt. Mr. Walpole,
pole. ill a subsequent visit to Cnidus, brought away

the Torso of a male statue : this he has since
added to the collection of Greek Marbles in the
Vestibule of the University Library at Cam-
bridge. No specimen of Cnidian sculpture can
be regarded with indifference. The famous
T'^enus of Praxiteles was among the number of
the ornaments once decorating this celebrated
city, and its effigy is still extant upon the
medals of the place. Sostratus of Cnidus, son of
Dexiphanes, built upon the Isle of Pharos the
celebrated Light-Tower, that was considered
one of the seven wonders of the world, and
from which all similar edifices were afterwards
denominated. Upon the coast, or in the port
of Cnidus, was decided the memorable naval
combat, considered by Polybius as marking the
8era when the Spartans lost the command of the
sea, which they had obtained by their victory
over the Athenians in the Hellespont. Although
above two thousand years have passed since the
squadrons of Persia, from all the ports of Asia,

TO RHODES. 275

crowded the Dorian shores, the modern tra- chap.
veller may yet recognise, m the vessels of the -

country, the simple mode of construction, and
the style of navigation displayed by the arma-
ment of Conon, and the galleys af Pisander.
Placed within the Theatre of the city, and sur-
rounded by so many objects calculated to
awaken the memory of past events, he might
imagine himself carried back to the aofe in
which they were accompUshed ; neither will he
find in any part of the country a scene where
the memorials of Andent Greece have been less
altered. Yet the whole coast of Asia Mixor,
from the Triopian Promontory to the confines
of Syria, remarkable for some of the most
interesting ruins of Greece, lies almost unex-
plored. Until the period at which this Journal
was written, when the British fleet came to
anchor in the spacious and beautiful Bay of
Marmorice, the existence of such a harbour had
not been ascertained ' : but there is no part of
the south of Lycia and Caria where a gulph,
a bay, a river, or a promontory, can be pointed
out, on which some vestige of former ages may

(1) The Journals of "Mr. Morritt and of Mr. Walpole contain much
• valuable information concerning the interior of ^«a Minor, of which the
author has not availed himself; because they relate to objects too far
removed from the route here described ; and also because these Gentle-
men, much batter qualified to do justice to their own valuable observations
will, as it is hoped, present them to the public.

276 RHODES.

CHAP, not be discerned: many of these are of the

VII. -^

V, ..y „i remotest antiquity ; and all of them are calcu-
lated to throw light upon the passages in
antient history.

After losing sight of the Ruins of Cnidus, we
sailed in view of Syme ' and of Rhodes ; an emi-
nence, called the Table Mountain, first appearing
upon the latter, and seeming itself to be insular,
as if it were separated from the rest of the
island. Towards the south, midway between
the islands of Crete and Rhodes, we saw the
Carpathian Carpathian Isles; a surprising distance for the

Ides,

eye to roam, considering the distinct prospect
we had of the largest, which is now called
Scarpanto. We were wafted by favourable
breezes during the whole night ; and the next
morning we entered the old port of Rhodes,
between the two piers, on which it has been
fancifully asserted, by some modern writers,
the feet of the celebrated Colossus formerly
rested ^ The mouth of this harbour is £">
choked with ruins, that small vessels alone are
able to enter; and even our little bark was
aground before she came to her anchor.

(1) " Media inter Uhodum Gnidumquc Syme." Plin, Hist. Nat.
lib.M. c.Sl. L. Bat. 1635.

(2) It is somewhat remarkable, that this circumstance, which is neither
mentioned by Strabo nor by Pliny, both of whom described the statue,
continues to be erroneously propagated.

The GULPH of GLAUCUS, now called the GULPH of MACRI,

irith MeTopngraphy nfthe Ruins of the City qfTelmt'Ssiis.

».-.,*? •.•■■-^■■'

A. Tou-n of .Wncri.

B. RniiiJ0/7>linfjn«, faj<ond

west of the town.

C. Ruiiij of Cenoete and Vene-
fortreiset.

D. The island
bv Tti
Venet

of G,

?d entirely

itdini^Sf lyin^
ncross the mouth of the
harljonr.

E. Island in the motilh of the

Outph^ behind which ships
findthebest anchorage for
wnterint;,

F. fCock on which La Pique

frigate struck.

G. H. I. K. Islands in the mouth

oftheOiilph.
M.N.F. Jnchorasc.
S. ft'aterin^-ptace.
V. River running into the har-

Q. Exceedinl^ hi^h mountains,
covered with snotv.

R. Road for vessels into the
harbour.

X. Promontorycalled the Seven
Capes.

a. The Theatre.

h. The Sibt/l's Care.

c. Ruins amons the rocks.

d. Mausoleum.

e. Large Greek Tomb on the

shore.

f. The Siiyli- Tom*.

e. h. i. Tombshewn in the rocks,
k. m. Greek Tombs.

N. B. The ftihyl's Tomb at /, as ihe luscriptiou shews, is of
antient Greek work. The lofcy oiuaacaias cDvirouiug the
Gulph iubjcct it 10 frequent squalls and calms.

■fea c

CHAP. VIII.

FROM RHODES, TO THE GULPH OF GLAUCUS,
IN ASIA MINOR.

Rhodes — Climate — Antiquities — Lindus — Inscriptions —
Pagan Ceremony — Divers of Syme and NisjTus — Gulph
of Glaucus — Grandeur of the Scenei-y — Malaria — Island
mentioned by Pliny — Ruins of Telmessus — Theatre —
Oracular Cave — Sepulchres of the Telmessensians —
Tomb of Helen, daughter of Jason — Other Soroi
— Mausoleum — Monolithal Sepulchres — Ruins at

Koynucky

CHAP,
VIII.

Rhodes.

278 RHODES.

Koynucky — Turhdent State of the Country — Conduct
of the Natives upon the Coast — New -discovered Plants —
Isle of Ahercromhie.

JlVhodes is a truly delightful spot : the air of
the place is healthy ; and its gardens are filled
with delicious fruit. Here, as in Cos, every
gale is scented with the most powerful fra-
grance, which is wafted from groves of orange
and citron trees. Numberless aromatic herbs
exhale at the same time such profuse odour, that
the whole atmosphere seems to be impregnated
with a spicy perfume.

Climate.

The present inhabitants of the island confirm
the antient history of its climate; maintaining,
that hardly a day passes, throughout the year,
in which the sun is not visible. Pagan writers
describe it as so peculiarly favoured, that
Jupiter is fabled to have poured down upon it
a golden shower. The winds are liable to little
variation : they are north, or north-west, during
almost every month, but these winds blow with
great violence. From the number of the appel-
lations which it bore at different periods, Rhodes
might have at last received the name of the
[wly-onomous island'. Its antiquities are too

(1) Ophiusa, from the number of its serpents; Stadia, or Desert;
Telrhinis, Corj/mbia, Trinacria, Mthreea, from its cloudless sky; Asteria,

because,

VIII.

RHODES. 279

interesting to be passed over without notice ; chap.
but we were hastening to the coast of E^ypt,
and contented ourselves in copying the few
inscriptions found within the town, or in its im-
mediate vicinity-. The streets were filled with
English sailors and soldiers ; and all other consi-
derations were absorbed in the great event of
the expedition to Ahoukir. A vessel had returned
from Egypt, and put on shore a few of our
wounded troops, who were taken to a hospital
already prepared for their reception ; but these
were men who fell in the first moments of land-
ing, and could give but a very imperfect account
of the success of an enterprise destined to
crown with immortal honour the Statesman by
whom it was planned, and the armies by which
it was achieved. All we could then learn was,
that, after a severe engagement, the French
troops had retreated towards Alexandria. As

because, at a distance, the island appears as a star; Poessa, Atabyria,
Oloessa, Macaria, and Pelagia. " Some are of opinion that Rhodes was
first peopled by the descendants of Dodanim, the fourth son of Javan.
Both tlie Septuagint and Samaritan translation of the Pentateuch, ( Eg-
■mont and Hey man, vol. I. p. 269.) instead of Dodanim, always use
Rodanim ,- and by this appellation the Greeks always named the Rhodians."
(3) The antient history of Rhodes, collected by Savary from difterent
authors, and contained in die Twelfth Letter of his Travels in Greece, may
be considered as the most favourable specimen of this author's talents, and
perhaps the best account extant of the island. It is better to refer the
Reader to such a source, than to repeat what has been already so ably
detailed.

280 RHODES,

CHAP, we had near relations and dear friends ensrasfcd
vm, . ...

^ — ,r-.^ in the conflict, it is not necessary to describe

our feehngs upon this inteUigence.

Antiquities. The principal ruins at Rhodes are not of earlier
date than the residence there of the Knights of
Malta\ The remains of their fine old fortress
prove that the building has sustained little
injury, owing either to time or to barbarians.
It still exhibits a venerable moated castle, of
great size and strength ; so fortified as to seem
almost impregnable. A drawing made from this
structure might furnish one of our theatres with
a most striking scenic decoration : it appears to
combine all that is necessary in a complete
system of fortification ; dykes and draw-bridges,
towers, battlements and bastions. The cells of
of the Knights are yet entire, forming a street
within the works : and near to these cells is the
cathedral, or chapel, whose doors of sycamore
wood, curiously carved, and said to be incor-
ruptible, are preserved in their original state :
the arms of England and of France appear sculp-

(1) " In the year 1308, the Emperor Emanuel, upon the expulsion of
the Knights from St. John d'Acri, made them a grant of this isldnd;
•which they continued to possess until the year 1522, when, after a glorious
resistance, the Grand-master, Villiers, was compelled to surrender it to
Solyman II. The Knights then retired, fust to Candia, and afterwards to
Sicily, where they continued till the year 1 530, when Charles V. gave
them the Island of Malta." Egmont and Het/man, vol. I. p. 270.

RHODES. 281

tiired upon the walls. The Turks have converted chap.

. . . VIII.

the Sanctuary into a magazine for military stores. ^- ■■

Of Lindiis, now called Lindo, the antient capi- undui.
tal of Rhodes, so little visited by travellers, so
remarkable by its early claim to the notice of the
historian ^ and so dignified by the talents to
which it gave birth ^ we collected a few scattered
observations from the clergy and surgeons of
the British fleet. The chaplain of the Admiral's
ship described the antiquities there as very
numerous. He spoke of the ruins of a temple,
w^hich may have stood upon the site of the fane
originally consecrated by the Daughters of
Danaus to the Lindian Minerva'^. When our

(2) LiNDCswas founded by Egyptians un&er Danaus, fourteen hun-
dred years before the Christian aera. It is one of the three cities alluded
to by Corner- (U. B. 668. See also Slraho, lib. xiv.) Notice of it also
occurs in the Parian Chronicle.

(3) It gave birth to Cleobulus, one of the Seven Sages; and to Charea
and Laches, the artists who designed and completed the Colossus. A
mistake, highly characteristic of French authors, %vas committed by
Voltaire, respecting this famous statue: it is noticed by 2ilentelle, in a note
to the article Livdos, Encyclopcdie Melhodique. Voltaire having read
Indian for Lindian, relates that the Colossus was cast by an Indian.

(4) 'li^ov OS iffTr./ 'Afir,vai Aiyoicc; ithrcid i^ifxvi;, too* Aityat^at li^ufiif
" There" [at Lindus) " is a conspicuous temple of tlie Lindian Minen-a,
the work of the Danaidae." Strabnn. Geogr. lib. xiv. p. 9'.i7. Ed. Oxon.
Savary says the ruins of this edifice are still visible, on an eminence near
the sea: Letters on Greece, p. 96. The inhabitants here consecrated the
7th Ode of Pindar's Ol j-mpics, by inscribing it in letters of gold : Ibid.
Demetrius Triclinius. Lindus was the port resorted to by the fleets of
Egypt and of Tyr<', before the building of Rhodes. Ibid.

282 RHODES.

^vin'' countrymen were there, several inscriptions were
noticed ; and of these, one may be here inserted,
owing to the evidence it contain
real position of the ancient city.

tions, owing to the evidence it contains respecting the

AINAIOI

A TH ZJ ZTP ATOM

POAYKPEONTOZ

NIKHNTAOAYMPIA

PAIAAZPAAAN

PPATONAINAinN

Many cities in Asia and Europe celebrated games
in imitation of the four sacred games of
Greece'. Agesistratus, who is commemorated in
this inscription, was the first of the Lindians who
had overcome the Boys in wrestling at the
Olympic Games \

Some terra-cotta vases, of great antiquity,
were also found in a garden : of these, we pro-
cured one with upright handles. Lindus is not
more than one long day's journey from Rhodes,
if the traveller make use of mules for his con-
veyance.

(1) See Recueil (VAnliq. tarn. II. p. 223; and also Corsiiii Diss.
Qualuor, Agon. p. 20.

(2) In an Inscription found at Sparta, and cited by Caylus, wc reac(,

RHODES. 283

The inscriptions which we noticed at Rhodes chap.
were principally upon marble altarsy of a cylin- ^ ■y-i/
drical form, adorned with sculptured wreaths,
and festoons supported by rams' heads, as at
Cos, and in other parts of Greece. The Jirst of
these altars was decorated with wreaths of
laurel, and it was thus inscribed:

AYZANAPOYAYZANAPOY
XAAKHTAKAITAZrYNAIKOZ
KAEAINIAOSKAAAIKIATIAA
KPOAZZIAOZ

It relates to Lysander and to his wife Clecenis.

Upon a second, with the rams' heads, appeared
only the name of a person who had placed it as
a voiu :

PYErO A
AOPEriN oz

upon a third, corresponding in its ornaments
with \hQ Jirst, was the name of Polycleitus, the son
of Polyaratus ;

POAYKAEITOZ
nOAYAPATOY

By imitating the classical simplicity and the

284 RHODES.

CHAP, brevity used by the Greeks in their inscriptions, we
' — ,— ^ might improve our national taste in this respect.
How^ much more impressive is the style they
adopted, than our mode of writing upon public
monuments, where a long verbose composition
is exhibited, relating to things of which it cannot
concern posterity to be informed ! In other ages,
however, the Greeks of the Rhodian territories
had the custom of adding to their simple
inscriptions ^n hexameter distich. Of this we saw
many instances; but shall subjoin one, as it
appeared upon the pedestal of a marhle column
at Rhodes : this pedestal had been bored, and
placed over the mouth of a well in the inner
basin of the principal harbour'. The inscription
is interesting, because it relates to an artist of
the country, Amphilochus the son of Lcigus, who
was probably an architect :

AM<!>IAOXOY

TOYAAArOY

nONTflPEnZ

HKElKAINEIAOYnPOXOAZKAIEPEZXATONINAON

TEXNAZAM<l>IAOXOIOMErAKAEOZA<i)0ITONAEI

"THE GREAT AND IMMORTAL GLORY OF THE ART
OF AMPHILOCHUS REACHES EVEN TO THE MOUTHS
OF THE NILE AND TO THE UTMOST INDUS."

(1) After our return to England, we were gratified by finding that
Egmont and Heyvian, half a century before, had also noticed this

Inscription

RHODES. 285

By the Indus is here meant the river ofyEthiobia. chap.

"l T" I T T

The Greeks before the time of Alexander had no ^ -^ ' ■
knowledge of India. Thus jEschylus conducts
his heifer down the Indus to the Cataracts of the
Nile\

Upon a mass of marble, in the street before
the Greek Convent, we also observed the fol-
lowing record of an offering to Jupiter the Saviour y
by the persons whose names are mentioned :

IHNnNNAOYNOY
APAAIOZnPOZENOS
A I I Z n T H P I

A circumstance occurs annually at Rhodes pagan
which deserves the attention of the literary ^''^"''^"y-
traveller : it is the ceremony of carrying Silenus
in procession at Easter. A troop of boys,
crowned with garlands, draw along, in a car, a

Inscription (See Vol. I. p. 268.) ; because their copy confirmed our own, as
to the words AAAFOT and nONTflPEnX; while, in oiuer respects, it is so
imperfect, as to be unintelligible without the assistance of the more correct
reading here offered. The Classical Reader will be interested in remark-
ing, that Aristophanes, in the iJt^tXai, uses the expression of the Rhodian
poet:

E(V ugn NEIAOT nPOXOAlS viaran.

(2) Tims in Rufflnus {Eccl. Hist. lib. i. c. 9.) and Socrates Scholasticut
(/i6. i. c. 1 9.) mention is made of the introduction of Christianity into India,
three hundred years after tlie Christian sera, when Frumentius was
j^pointed Bishop of tlie ^ixumi ; meaning tliercby Abyssinia: for it is
said of India by Socrates, that it joias to ^Ethiopia.

VIII.

286 RHODES.

CHAP, fat old man, attended with great pomp. We
unfortunately missed the opportunity of bearing
testimony to this remarkable example of the
existence of Pagan rites in remaining popular
superstitions'. Mr. Spurring, a naval architect,
who resided at Rhodes, and Mr. Cope, a com-
missary belonging to the British army, informed
us of the fact ; both of whom had seen the
procession. The same ceremony also takes place
in the Island of Scio.

(l) Even in the town of Cambridge, and centre of cur University,
many curious remains of very antient customs may be noticed, in dif-
ferent seasons of the year, which have passed without observation.
The custom of blowing horns upon the first of May {Old Style) is
derived from a festival in honour of Diana. At the J/awkie, as it is
called, or Harvest- Home, may be seen a clown dressed in female apparel,
having his face painted, and his head decorated with ears of corn, and
bearing about him other symbols of Ceres, the while he is carried in a
waggon, with great pomp and loud shouts, through the streets ; the
horses being covered with white sheets. When we have asked the
meaning of this ceremony, the people answer, that they are drawing
MoRGAY (MHTHP th) or Harvest Queen." These antient customs of
the countrj' did not escape the notice of Erasmus, when he was in
England. He had observed them, both at Cambridge and in London;
and particularly mentions the Mowing of hxrrns, and the ceremony of
depositing a deer's head upon the altar of St. Paul's Church, which
was built upon the site of a temple of Diana, by Ethelhcrt king of
Kent, in the time of I\lelitus first Bishop of London, as appears from
a manusciipt in the Cottonian Collection. " ^pvd ^4nglos," says
Erasmus, " mos est Londini, ut certo die populus in summum tem-
plum Paulo sacrum inducat longo hastili inipositum caput ferse, cum
inamceno sonitu coknuum veNatoriobuim. H&c pomp4 proceditur ad
summum altare ; dicas omncs afflatos furore Deli*." Erasmi Et-
<ksiast(P, lib. i. Op. tnni. V. p, 701. 'icQ dho KniglW s Life of Erasmus ,
Canib. 1726. p. 237.

RHODES. 287

From tlie neighbouring Island of Symcy so
famous for its divers, women come to Rhodes for
employment. They are the porters and water- ^'Z7^nA
carriers of the island ; and appear distinguished -^''•"i"'"*-
by a peculiar mode of dress, wearing white
turbans on their heads. Their features have,
moreover, a singular character, resembling those
of the Tziganhies, or gipsies, in Russia. In
Syme-, and in the Isle of JSJisyms, now called
Nizari, whose inhabitants are principally main-
tained by the occupation of diving for sponges,
the following singular custom is observed.
When a man of any property intends to have
his daughter married, he appoints a certain
day, when all the young unmarried men repair
to the sea-side, where they strip themselves in
the presence of the father and his daughter, and
begin diving. He who goes deepest into the
sea, and remains longest under water, obtains
the lady^

(2) SVME yet retains its antient appellation ; derived from Syme, a
daughter of lalysus, according to Stephanas Byzantinus.

(3) Egmont and Heyman, vol. I. p. 266. When the antiquities
obtained by the English Ambassador in Athens were sunk, by the loss of
a vessel in the Bay of Cerigo, together with the valuable Journals of his
secretary, Mr. Hamilton, relating to his travels in Greece and Egypt,
this gentleman, with great presence of mindj'^sent for some of these
divers; who actually succeeded in penetrating to the ship's hold, and
in driving large iron bolts into the cases containing Marbles, at the
bottom of the sea, in ten fathoms water : to these they afterwards
applied cords, and thus succeeded in raising a part of the ship's cargo.

CHAP.

viir.

Gulph of

GUwcux.

288 FROM RHODES,

A north wind had psevailed from the time of
our leaving the Dardanelles. It changed, how-
ever, as soon as we had put to sea from Rhodes^
which induced us to stand over for the Gulph
of Glaucus, now called Maori Bay, situate
between the antient provinces of Caria and
Lyciay in Asia Minor'; a place difficult of
access to mariners, and generally dreaded by
Greek sailors, because, when sailing to\vards it
with a leading wind, they often encounter what
is called a ^ head wind,' blowing from the Gulph,
causing a heavy swell within its mouth, where
they are also liable to dangerous calms, and to
sudden squalls from the high mountains around.
Grandeur Xhc appearancc of all the south of j4sia Minor,

of the See- .

nery. froiii tlic sca, is fcarfully grand ; and perhaps
no part of it possesses more eminently those
sources of the sublime, which Burke has
instructed us to find in vastness and in terror,
than the entrance to the gulph into which we
were now sailing. The mountains around it,
marking the confines of Caria and Lycia, are
j?o exceedingly high, that their summits are
covered with deep snow throughout the year ;

(l) Cicero (lib.i. de Divinatione) places the city of Telmessus in
Caria. It seems rather to have belong-ed to Lycia. " Qucb Lyciam
finit Telmessus," says PUmj (Hist. Nat. lib. v. cap. 27.) The moun-
tains to the 7iO)th and ivest of it formed the bouiulary hetweea the t\¥o
provinces.

TO THE GULPH OF GLAUCUS. 289

aind they are visible, at least, one third part of chap.
the whole distance, from the Jlsiatic to the ^ •
African Continent. From Rhodes they are
distinctly seen, although that island be rarely
discerned from the mouth of the Gulph, even
in the clearest weather. Of this Gulph it is not
possible to obtain correct ideas, even from the
best maps, as it is falsely delineated in all that
have yet been published. It inclines so much
towards the south, after passing the isles which
obstruct the entrance, that ships may lie as in
a basin. Its extremity is quite land-locked ;
although no such notion can be formed of
it, from the appearance it makes, either in
D'AnviUes Atlas, or in any more recent publi-
cation. The air of this Gulph, especially in
summer, is pestiferous; a complete mal-aria^ MaUAria.
prevails over every part of it. Sir Sidney Smith,
being here with the Tigre, assured us that
within the lapse of one week from the time of
his arrival, he had not less than one hundred of
the crew upon the sick list. The author soon

(2) The name generally given, in the Mediterranean, to those
mephitic exhalations of carluretled hydrogen, prevalent during the
summer months, where land has not been properly drained. The
mouths of all rivers are thus infested : also, all cotton and rice grounds ;
places called Lagunes, where salt is made ; all the plains of Baotiut
Thessaly, and Macedonia, particularly those of Zeitun, the anlient
Lamia, and Tkessalonica; the great Marsh of B^rotia; all the northern
and western coasts of the Morea; and the whole coast of Romelia,
opposite Corcyra, now Corfu.

VOL. Iir. T

VIII.

290 GULPH OF GLAUCUS.

CHAP, became a striking example of the powerful
influence of such air, not only in the fever
which there attacked him, but in a temporary
privation of the use of his limbs, which continued
until he put to sea again. It may generally
be remarked, that wherever the ruins of antient
cities exist, the air is bad; owing to water
which has been made stagnant by the destruc-
^tion «f aqueducts, of conduits that were used
for the public baths, and to the filling up of
channels formerly employed to convey water,
which is now left, forming fens and stinking
pools. But it is not to such causes alone that
the bad air of the Bay of M«cn maybe ascribed.
The lofty mountains, entirely surrounding it,
leave the Gulph, as it were, in the bottom of a
pit, where the air has not a free circulation,
and where the atmosphere is often so sultry,
that respiration is difficult : at the same time,
sudden gusts of cold wind rush down, at inter-
vals, from the snowy heights, carrying fever
and death to those who expose their bodies to
such refreshing but deceitful gales. Yet the
temptations to visit this place, notwithstanding
the danger, are lamentably strong ; there is no
part of the Grecian territory more interesting in
its antiquities than the Gulph of Glaucus. The
Ruins of Telmessus are as little known, as they
are remarkable in the illustration they afford

GULPH OF GLAUCUS. 291

with reo:ard to the tombs and the theatres of the chap

VIII.

Antients. v— .^—.^

We had no sooner entered the mouth of the
Gulph, than we encountered the tremendous
swell our pilot had taught us to expect. At
one moment, a gust, as of a hurricane, laid our
vessel upon her beam-ends; at another, the
sails were shaking, as in a calm, and the ship
pitching in all directions. In this situation
night came on. Our Captain, wishing himself
well out at sea, was cursing his folly for ven-
turing into such a birth ; dryly observing, that
" if we did not look sharp, we should be smo-
thered before morning." Land around us, on
every side, increased our apprehensions ; but
patience and labour at last brought us quietly
to anchor on the eastern side of one of the six
isles in the entrance to this bay, behind which
vessels lie most commodiously that visit the
place for the purpose of watering. During the
Egyptian Expedition, ships came hither to
obtain wood and water for the fleet ; but their
crews being attacked by the natives of the
coast, who are a very savage race of moun-
taineers, it was usual to send to Cyprus for
those supplies.

\Vhen daylight appeared, we observed a

T 2

292 GULPH OF GLAUCUS.

CHAP, lar^^er island than any of those we had before

VIII. _ ''

< — ^ — ' noticed, lying farther within the bay, towards
mentioned thc east, and entirely covered with buildings,
^ '"'"' like the small island in the Las:o Mass^ore of
the Milanese territory in Italy, called Isola hella.
This island is perhaps the Macris of Pliny S
which he describes as Ivino- towards the river
Glaucus ; unless, from the circumstance of its
ruined town, we may consider it as Telandria,
which is placed by him nearly in the same
situation. The buildings seemed to us to be
the work of Italians ; for, upon hoisting out our
boat, and visiting the place, we found here the
ruins as of a Genoese town, of considerable size,
to which the inhabitants of the town of Maori
were probably accustomed to resort, during
summer, to avoid the bad air. Some of the
houses, porticoes, baths, and chapels, are yet
almost entire ; and the whole has a picturesque
and striking appearance. After passing this
island, we rowed towards the town of Maori,
Ruins of situate in the midst of the Ruins of Telmessus.
The name of this city appears in the insoription
which we found there, proving the accuracy of
D'Anvillc in the position which he assigned to

(1) PUny mentions the island Macris, whence the modern name
niacri. It is perhaps, therefore, this island to which he alludes in the
following passage : " Glaucumque versus ainnem Lagusa, Afacrui,
Didynia?, Helbo, Scope, Aspis, et in qi\k oppidum interiit Telandria."
Hist. Nat. lib. v, torn. I. p. 280. //. Bat. 1635.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 293

it. Here the bay winds round a promontory, chap,
and inclines towards the south, presenting a i.. ,- j
beautiful harbour sheltered on every side by
a mountainous coast-. We landed upon the
modern pier; and, having paid our respects to
the Agha in the usual form, by taking a cup of
his coffee, proceeded to the Ruins. They lie
towards the east and west of the present town,
or, in truth, all around it ; for when the modern
town was built, it arose from the ruins of the
antient city. The first and principal Ruin
appears from the sea, before landing, to the
west of the town. It is that of an immense
Theatre, whose enormous portals are yet standing : Theatre.
it seems to be one of the grandest and most
perfect specimens which the Antients have left
of this kind of building. The situation selected
for it, according to a custom observed through-
out Greece, is the side of a mountain sloping to
the sea. Thus, by the plans of Grecian archi-
tects, the vast operations of Nature were
rendered subservient to works of art ; for the
mountains, on w^iich they built their theatres,
possessed naturally a theatrical form; and,
towering behind them, exhibited a continuation
of the immense Coiion which contained the seats
for the spectators ; giving a prodigious dignity

(2) See a small Chart made upon the spot by the author, as a,
Vignette to this Chapter.

VIII.

294 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, to the appearance of their theatres. Indeed, it
may be said, that not only the mountains, but
the sea itself, and all the prospect before the
spectators, who were assembled in those
buildings, must have been considered, by the
architects of Grecian theatres, as forming parts
of one magnificent design. The removal of any
object from the rest would materially have
injured the grandeur of the whole. Savary,
who saw this theatre at Telmessus, says it is
much less than that of Patara ', and we found
its diameter not half so great as that of
Alexandria Troas ; yet the effect produced by
it seemed to be greater. Some of the stones
used in its construction are nine feet long,
three feet wide, and two feet thick. Three
immense portals, not unlike the Rains of
Stonehenge, conducted to the arena. The stones
which compose these gates are yet larger than
those already mentioned : the central gateway
consists only oijive, and the two others oi three
each, placed in the most simple style of archi-
tecture. Every thing at Telmessus is Cyclopean ;
a certain vastness of proportion, as in the walls
of Tirynthus or of Crotona, excites a degree of
admiration which is mingled with awe ; and
this may be said to characterize the vestiges of

(l) " Letters on Greece," lib. ii. 48, Lond. 1783.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 205

the Dorian colonies over all the coast of Asia chap.

VIII.

Minor. The grandeur of the people and the ■
sublime conceptions of their artists were dis-
played, not only in the splendour of their
buildings, but in the magnitude of the materials
with which their edifices were constructed.
The kings and the people of Caria and of Lycia
have left behind them monuments defying the
attacks of time or of barbarians. Amidst the
convulsions of Nature, and the earthquakes
which have desolated the shores of the Carpa-
thian Sea, these buildings have remained un-
shaken. The enormous masses belonging to
the doors of the Telmessensian theatre were
placed together without any cementation or
grooving; they are simply laid one upon
the other ; and some notion may be formed of
the astonishing labour necessary in the comple-
tion of the edifice to which they belong, when
it is further stated, that every stone in the
outer walls of the building was adorned by a
relief, formed in bevelling the edges ''. There
were, originally, Jive immense portals leading to
the arena, although three only remain standing
at this day. The largest of these, being the
central place of entrance, consisted of Jive

(2) In all description of this kind, the pencil of the artist is so,
much superior to the pen of the writer, that it is doubtful whether,
after everj' endeavour to give an idea of this appearance, the account
will he iiitellisriblc.

296

CHAP.

viir.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

pieces of stone; two being on either side, as
uprights, and one laid across. The uprights are
ten feet two inches, and five feet eleven inches,
making the whole height of this door sixteen
feet and one inch. The breadth of these stones
is three feet ten inches, and they are twenty
inches thick. The space for the entrance is
seven feet three inches wide ; and the length of
the upper stone placed across the uprights is
ten feet seven inches ; all of one entire mass.
The doors on each side of the main entrance,
consisting only of three stones each, had, for
their uprights, masses of eleven feet three inches
in height, four feet in breadth, nineteen inches
in thickness, and the space for the entrance six
feet four inches : those upon the right and left
of the three in the centre were still smaller.
An engraved representation will perhaps give
more perspicuity to this description.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 297

The form of this theatre is semicircular ; it has
twenty-eight rows of seats, and all of them remain
entire. The rows are divided into two parts, by
a corridor passing all round ; fourteen seats
being in the upper division, and the same
number in the lower. In the upper compart-
ment, on each side of the theatre, is a vaulted
chamber; one being exactly opposite to the
other. Perhaps the measure across the arena,
to the beginning of the seats, may rather prove
its form to be elliptical than semicircular. We
found the distance from, the centre portal to
the lower bench to be thirty-five yards, and we
obtained a major diameter of thirty-seven
yards by measuring the distance from side to
side. The stones of which the walls consist,
between the portals, are eight feet ten inches
in length ; these were placed together without
cement, and exhibited the same massive struc-
ture as the rest of the building. Being resolved
to render an account as explicit as possible of
a theatre still remaining so entire, we shall
now proceed to state the dimensions of the
seats. Their height is sixteen inches, and the
breadth twenty-five; and the height of the
corridor, passing round the back of the lower
tier, is five feet eight inches; so that the
elevation of the persons placed in the upper
row was forty-two feet above the arena. Before

298 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, the front of this fine theatre extended a noble

VIII. • n- 1 r

< I .y ,./ terrace, to which a magnificent flight of steps
conducted from the sea. The beautiful harbour
of Telmessus, with the precipices and snow-clad
summits around it, were in the prospect sur-
veyed by the spectators ; and behind towered
the heights of that mountain, to whose shelving
sides the edifice was itself adapted. It is not
in the power of imagination to conceive a
sublimer scene, than, under so many circum-
stances of grand association, was presented to
the stranger, who, landing from his bark
beneath the Propylcea of this building, ascended
to the terrace of the Theatre from the strand,
and, entering its vast portals, beheld the
Telmessensians seated by thousands within its
spacious area.

Oracular Ncar to the ruins of this edifice there are

Cave.

other remains ; and, among them, there is one,
of a nature too remarkable to be passed without
notice : it is a lofty and very spacious vaulted
apartment, open in front, hewn in the solid
substance of a rock, beneath the declivity upon
which the Theatre is situate, and close to the
sea. The sides of it are of the natural stone ;
but the back part consists of masonry, stuccoed
with so much art, that it exhibits the appear-
ance of the rock itself. This stucco evidently

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 299

served as a screen, to conceal a hollow recess, chap.

VIII.

of the same height and breadth as that side ■
of the vault. In this recess was probably
secreted one of those soothsayers for which
Telmessus was antiently renowned'; so that
when persons entered the vault to consult the
oracle, a voice apparently supernatural might
answer, where no person was visible. Similar
means of deception, employed by Heathen
priests, are exhibited by their remains at Argos
in Peloponnesus, as will hereafter be described.
With regard to this Cave, it is difficult to explain
the manner in which the person who delivered
the oracular sayings obtained an entrance to the
recess. We could observe neither hole nor
crevice ; nor would the place have been disco-
vered, if some persons had not, either by
accident or by design, broken a small aperture
through the artificial wall, about four feet from
the floor of the vault. A flight of steps extended

(l) Telmessus was so renowned for the art of diiinalion, that Crasus,
king of LydUt, sent to consult its soothsayers upon dii occasion men-
tioned by Herodotus. The famous haruspex of Alexander the Great
was Aristander of Telmessus. Arrlan (Epod. lib. ii. ed. Gronov.)
says of the people, Enai ya^ raus TiXfiiTffia; ffo^als rcc h'a ilny'-.f^xi, ««<
fffiiriv UTO yivov; ^ilMai auroli xai yufai?,t xai *ai7t rhv fiavrua.*- It may be
observed here, that the name of the city, in the text of Jrrian, and in
Gronovius's commentary, is written Telmissus. Our inscriptions, copied
there, prove the word to be as written in the following passage of
Cicero: " Telmessus in Carid est: qua in urbe excellU hanispieum
disciplina." CiCERO de Divinat tone, lib. i.

300 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, from the shore to this remarkable cave. As it

VIII.

was open in front towards the sea, it does not
seem to have served for a place of sepulture.
We may therefore conclude that it was one of
the chambers of those juggling soothsayers, for
which this city was particularly famous.

The. walls of the Theatre of Telmessus fur-
nished materials for building the pier of the
present town. The sculptured stones, already
noticed upon the exterior of that sumptuous
edifice, may now be discerned in the later
masonry of this work. All the marble used by
the Turkish inhabitants of the place, in their
coemetery, mosque, and public fountains, was
taken from the remains of the Grecian city, and
afterwards fashioned, by those barbarians, into
shapes by which every trace of their former
honours has been annihilated. Enough, however,
yet exists, to prove the rank once maintained
by the Telmessensians, although little can be found
within the precincts of the modern town. Yet
even here we observed some antiquities ; and
among these a marble altar, on which a female
figure was represented, with the extraordinary
symbols of two hands figured in bas-relief,
as if cut off and placed by her, and with this
inscription :

EIPHNHXAIPE

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 301

Near the same place was also the capital of an chap.
Ionic pilaster; having the architect's name, »-, y *
Hermolycus, so engraven upon it as not to
be discerned when the building, to which it
belonged, was perfect; the letters being in-
scribed behind the capital, where the stone
^▼as intended to be placed against a wall ; and
thus written :

€ PHOAYKOY

Not being able to discover any other anti-
quities within the town, we passed through it,
towards the east^; and here we had ample
employment, in the midst of the sepulchres of
the Telmessensians. Some of them have been
delineated, but without accuracy or effect,
in the work of Monsieur de Choiseul Goiiffier'.
They are the sepulchres to which allusion was
made in a former volume, when discussing the

Cl) The remains of Genoese and of f'enetian buildings cover all the
coast near to the town. We found here, in full bloom, that exceed-
ingly rare plant, the Aristolochia Maurorutn. It is badly represented
in Toumefmt's Travels, torn. II. p. 79- The singular colour of the
r'.ower, and also its brown leaves, made it at first doubtful to us
^\hethe^ it were an animal or a plant. It grows also near to the ruins
of the Theatre.

(2) lot/age Pittmesque de la Grece. This has been stated for the
purpoie of contradicting a Note published in the English edition of
Savory's Letters on Greece, p. 49- Lond. 1788. ; where it i; said, that
" these antient monuments are delineated with great minuteness and

accuraci/

302 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, subject of the origin of temples'. It was there -
stated, that the most antient Heathen structures,
for offerings to 'the Gods, were always either
tombs themselves, or they were built where
tombs had been. Hence the first temples of
Atheris, of Paphos, and of Miletus; and hence the
terms used by the most antient writers in
their signification of a temple. Hence, also, the
sepulchral origin and subsequent consecration
of the Pyramids of Egypt. But since Mr. Bryant,
alluding to the tombs of Persepolis, maintained
that they were temples ab origine, as distin-
guished from places of burial, it will be right to
shew, that those of Telmessus, corresponding
exactly with the Persepolitan monuments, so
that one might be confounded with the other,
have upon them inscriptions denoting explicitly
the cause of their construction.

Sepulchres Thc Tombs of Telmessus are of two kinds;
Teimes- botli bcing visiblc from the sea, at a considerable

scnsians.

distance. The^r^^, and the more extraordinary,
are sepulchres hewn in the face of perpendicular

accuracy in the Koyage Pittoresque," If the Reader attempt to form
his judgement of the Ruins of Telmessus from that work, he will
neither have any notion of their real grandeur, nor any correct idea
of their appearance.

(l) "Journey along the frontier of Circassia." See Parti.
Vol. II. Chap. II. p. 75. of the Octavo Edition.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 303

rocks. In places where the side of a mountain chap.
exhibits an almost inaccessible steep, the antient •
workmen seem to have bestowed their principal
labour. In these situations may be seen exca-
vated chambers, worked with such marvellous
art as to resemble porticoes with Ionic columns ;
gates and doors beautifully sculptured, on which
are carved the representations as of embossed
iron-work, bolts, and hinges. Yet every such
appearance, however numerous the parts that
compose it, proves, upon examination, to consist
of one stone ^. When any of the columns have
been broken at their bases, they remain sus-
pended by their capitals ; being, in fact, a part
of the architrave and cornice which they seem
to'support, and therefore sustained by them, and
by the contiguous mass of rock above, to which
they all belong. These are the sepulchres which
resemble those of Persepolis. The other kind
of tomb found at Telmessus is the true Grecian
Soros, the Sarcophagus of the Romans. Of this
sort there are several (but of a size and gran-
deur far exceeding any thing of the kind else-
where), standing, in some instances, upon the
cfaggy pinnacles of lofty precipitous rocks.

(2) A similar style of workmaiislii]) may be observed in the stupen-
dous Indian temples, as they ha^e been beautifuUy delineated by
Mr. Dunid.

VIII.

304 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP. It is as difficult to determine how they were
there placed, as it would be to devise means^
for taking them down ; of such magnitude are
the single stones composing each Soros. Nearer
to the shore, and in less elevated situations,
appear other tombs, of the like nature, and of
still larger size, which are formed of more than
one stone ; and almost all of them, of whatso-
ever magnitude or form, exhibit inscriptions.

The largest of those near to the shore, situate
in a valley between the mountains and the sea,
is composed of five immense masses of stone ;
four being used for the sides, and one for the
lid or cover'. A small opening, shaped like a
door, in the side facing the harbour, is barely
large enough to allow a passage for the human
body. Examining its interior by means of the
aperture here afforded, we perceived another
small square opening in the floor of this vast
Soros, which seemed to communicate with an
inferior vault. Such cavities might be observed
in all the sepulchres of Telmessus, excepting
those cut in the rocks ; as if the bodies of the
dead had been placed in the lower receptacle.

(1) The length oi ihz operculum (and of course of the 5ojw which
it exactly covers) is ten feet ; its width, eight feet five inches ; and its
thickness, two feet six inches.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 395

while the Soros above answered the purpose of chap.

VIII

a cenotaph ; for wherever the ground had been ' ^ ' '
sufficiently cleared around them, there ap-
peared, beneath the Soros, a vault". Almost all
these tombs have been ransacked ; but perhaps
the one to which reference is now made has
not yet been opened. Gipsies, who were
encamped in great numbers among the Ruins,
had used some of the vaults, or lower recepta-
cles, as sheds for their goats. A question is
here suggested, which it may be possible to
answer ; it is this : " Whence originated the
distinction, observed in the Telmessensian sepul-
chres, between the tombs having a Persepolitan
character, and the cenotaphs exhibiting the
most antient form of the Greek Soros T The
first seem evidently to be Asiatic, as they cor-
respond with the remains of customs still dis-
cernible in many parts of India. The last are
of European origin ; and their introduction may
therefore be referred to periods in the history
of the country, when the first colonies from
Greece took possession of the coasts of Caria
and Lycia. The Dorian dialect is yet retained

(2) Such a mode of interment is still exhibited in all our English
coemeteries. It is a practice that we derived from the i?o>«««5; and
the form of their Sarcophagus may yet be noticed in almost every
thurch-vard of our island.

306 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, in almost every inscription found upon these
' shores'.

Tomb of Upon the ridit hand of the mouth of the Soros,
daughter of is an Inscription, in legible characters, of the
highest importance in ascertaining the identity
of the city to which it belonged, as well as in
the illustration it offers concerning the nature of
the monument itself. The author copied it with
all the] care and attention it was possible to
bestow, when exposed to the scorching beams of
a powerful sun, and to mephitic exhalations
from the swamp in which it is situate. By the
legend, this monument is proved to have been
the Tomb of Helex, daughter of Jason, a
WOMAN of Telmessus. It is difficult to com-
prehend what is intended by the turret, unless
it be the superior receptacle, or Soros itself. We
learn, from this inscription, that Greek tombs
were not always exclusively appropriated to the
interment of a single body, although such strict
injunction be sometimes expressed against the

(l) Tlie late Professor Porson, to whom the author shewed the inscrip-
tion he discovered upon this Soros, maintained that it was evidently
older than the hundredth Olympiad. Reckoning, therefore, to the
time in which it was found, the antiquity of this monument
amounted to two thousand one hundred and seventy-one years ; for
the hundredth Olympiad terminated with the year 377 B. C. Professor
Porson himself afforded the translation of this inscription, as it will
be found here given ; the author having cai'efuDy inserted it, literally
and verbally, from the copy left with him by his lamented friend.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 307

admission of any other corpse than of the person chap.
first buried'; but that sometimes they answered ■
all the purposes of a modern family vault.

EAENH H KAI

A<l)<MON I ACO

NOCTOYAIO

TENOYCTEA

M H EEIETOM N H

MEIONKATECKEYACEN

EAYTH KAIOS^EAY

THNENEOAS'ENAnOA

AWNIAHAYIwAYTHC

KAI EAENHTHKAIA<|>I

WErrONH AYTHCAAAWAE

MH AENIE2EINAIENTW

nYPnCKWTHOHNAIME

TATOENTA<!)HNAIAYTHN

EITiC0EI HTINAACE

BHCECTWGEOICKATA

XOONIOICKAIEKTOC

0<l>£l AETWTEA

M H EEEN WAH

MOEI W

XIE

(!2) See particularly the Inscr-ptioK copied at Erkessyheuy, in the
Plain of Troy, as found on a Soros brought from Alexandria Trons, in
the Sixth Chapter of this Volume, p. 204.

VOL. in. t'

308 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP.
VIII.

HELEN, WHO WAS ALSO APHIOX, THE
DAUGHTER OF JASON THE SON OF DIOGENES, A
WOMAN OF TELMESSUS, CONSTRUCTED THIS MO-
NUMENT FOR HERSELF, AND LATE IN LIFE HAS
BURIED HERSELF THEREIN; AND TO APOLLONI-
DES, HER OWN SON ; AND TO HELEN, WHO IS
LIKEWISE CALLED APHION, HER OWN GRAND-
DAUGHTER; BUT TO NOBODY ELSE BE IT
ALLOWED TO BE DEPOSITED IN THE TURRET,
AFTER THAT SHE HERSELF IS THEREIN EN-
TOMBED. BUT IF ANY PERSON PRESUME TO PUT
ANY PERSON THEREIN, LET HIM BE DEVOTED
TO THE INFERNAL GODS, AND LET HIM YEARLY
PAY TO THE TREASURY OF THE TELMESSENSIANS
FIFTEEN DRACHMS*."

gllll There were other sepulchres of the same form,

although not quite so large, which consisted
only of two masses of stone ; one for the body,
or chest, of the Soros, and the other for its oper-
culum; and, to increase the wonder excited by
the skill and labour manifested in their construc-
tion, these have been almost miraculously raised
to tlie surrounding heights, and left standing
upon the projections and crags of the rocks
which the casualties of Nature have offered for
their reception. One of them exhibits a has-

(l) Nine shillings and eight-pence farthing.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 309

relief; and by the left side of this, an inscription, ^^J^^'
but so nearly obliterated, that we could '■ - y ■>
discern few of the letters. The re/fe/" represents
a female figure seated, to whom some one ig
bringing an infant. Four other figures, two
male and two female, follow the person who
carries the child. These again are succeeded
by a train of attendants. This subject is com-
mon in Greece. It is similar to that described
by Dr. Chandler at Sigeum\ as being the pre-
sentation of a new-born babe to the tutelar Deity,
upon the fifth day after its birth. It is not quite
so clear for what purpose this subject was
introduced upon a sepulchral monument, unless
it were erected in memory of one who died in
child-bed. The only distinct letters were the
following :

AH ... PA

AHMHTPIO

.... OESTHATHN

TAKAAA . .

OfsllOZAIOINH

NTAION

Upon the opposite side of this Soros, towards
the mountain, we found also part of another
inscription :
TEAHTO AAOAZK ... A ... KN OZI

(2) Travels in Asia Minor, p. 36. See also a Plate in the Ionian
/i/itiquitits.

u 2

110 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP. This tomb consists of two entire stones,

VIII.

., y,.i „■' standing upon a lofty rock, difficult of access.
One stone being hollowed, affords a receptacle
for the body ; the other supplies its ponderous
covering.

Near to this there is another tomb, with a
simple bas-relief, but not of less massive mate-
rials, nor less elevated in its situation. The
practice of ornamenting the Soros is not of a
date so remote as the chaster style observed in
Some of the old sepulchres oi Macedonia, and in
others left by the Ptolemies of Egypt. In its
original form, it preserves a simplicity and
grandeur not to be aided by any ornament.
The purest model ^ was afforded by the granite
Soros, in the chamber of the Greater Pyramid,
when it was covered by a simple slab. During
the first ages, the Soroi were destitute even of
inscriptions; the magnitude of the v»^ork spoke
for itself, and it was believed that posterity
needed no other information^. In later times,

(1) The classical taste of Poussin did not suffer this model to escape
his notice, when he painted the celebrated picture of The Fli^M
into Egypt. The Holy Family are there delineated by the side of an
antient<o?«6, consisting of the Soros^ with its simple covering, destitute
of any ornament whatsoever. In that picture, all is repose, and gran-
deur, and sublimity, in the highest degree.

(2) The account given by Diodorus of the Sepulchre of Osymandi/as,
{Diod. Sic. lib. i. p. 57. ed. /Vessel. Amst. 1746.) aflFording one of the
oldest Insaiptijans of this nature, proves how fully the Antients relied upon

the

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. Sll

when the relics of the dead became sources f"HAP.
of superstition, and sloth or avarice had ren-
dered them subservient to mercenary purposes,
it was necessary that inscriptions should often
not only record the origin of the tomb, but also
testify the miracles it wrought, or the mysteries
it concealed. Hence those numberless writinsfs
at the monument of Memnon, and the long-
catalogue of hieroglyphic characters with which
the priests of Alexandria had inscribed the
Soros containing the consecrated remains of the
Founder of their city. It is quite inconceivable
by what art the people of Telmessus were
enabled to raise such everlasting monuments
of their piety for the dead. The Soros now
described, stands upon the top of a rock,
towering among the ruins and other sepulchres
of the city : it consists, like the former, of two
pieces of stone ; and its foundation is upon a
mass so solid, that even the earthquakes, to
which the country has been liable, have not, in
the smallest degree, altered its original position.

the perpetuity of their memory by the greatness of their sepulchres.
EA2IAETCBA2IAE.aN0CTMANAXACEOIIEIAETICEIAEXAI
BOTAETAinHAIKOCELAIIKAinOTKEIMAIXIKATnTITXlNE
MflNEPrflN. " I am Osi/mandyus, King of Kings ! Jf any one
would know how g^reat I am, and where I lie, let him surpass any
of my works." Ulysses, in the Hecuba of Euripides, expresses his
infliflcrcnce as to the manner in which he lives, provided only that he
be allowed a magnificent Tomb after his death.

312 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP. Again passing the Tomb of Helen, and

,- ' proceeding a little farther towards the east, we

came to the remains of a Monument, which

1 should have believed to have been the famous
Mauscv Cenotaph erected by Artemisia in honour of her

husband, from its conformity to the accounts
given of that work, if Strabo had not assigned
for it a different situation \ Hard by, upon a
block of marble, we noticed the following
inscription, perhaps referring to this building.
The stone seemed as if it had been placed over
the entrance of some edifice. It purports that
a person of the name of " Sammias constructed
the monument for himself, his wife Auocesis',
daughter of Naneis, his family, and descen-
dants :" and concludes with the usual prohibi-
tion concerning its exclusive appropriation ; and
the fine to be levied in consequence of its viola-
tion, to be paid to the Senate.

2 AMMI AE K ATE2KETA2ENT0MNHMEI0NE ATTn V. A \

r i SAIKIATT0TATSH2EINANHIAO2KAIT0I2TEK1SI0I2
HTOI2EKTOTTaNE20MENOI2EKrONOI2MOTKAI
TOTTIOTMOTEnArAOOTXAPAEANMEINHMETATTOr
OTAENIEHE2TAIANOIE/ lH0IiiErHMH2TNXaPHSAITINI

XEONniEIAEOHOAAAO n0IH2A2An0TEI2EITEA

Iv'tiSSEnNrEPOTSIA ^..

(1) Slralon. Geog. lib. xiv. p. 938. ed. Oxon.

(2) This name occurs in an Inscription published by Mnffei, Epist. 1 P.
Gall. Antiq. See also Oderki Inscript. p. 368.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 313

That a building equal to this in magnitude "^'Jf*
should have been erected for any private indi- ^— v — '
vidual, seems to be improbable : and that it
could not have been one of the public edifices
of the Telmessensians, is evident, because it did
not admit light : and further, that its origin was
sepulchral, may also be inferred from the cir- -

cumstance of its situation in the midst of tombs.
Its form is quadrangular ; it consists of enor-
mous masses of stone, placed together without
cement : strength seems all which the architect
intended in its formation. It bears every trace
of having sustained some enormous obelisk or
pyramid, to which it supplied a basement.
Viewed externally, it has the appearance of a
solid cube ; but having effected a passage to the
interior of the pile, by means of chasms wliich
had been opened by earthquakes, we found an
arch, within, upon each of the sides of the
cube. Between these arches, the intervening
parts, that is to say, the solid angles of the
building, were each of them of one entire stone,
of incredible size, and scooped within, so as to
form a dome by meeting together in the upper
part of the fabric. Upon the outside of the
pile the arches were walled up, to give addi-
tional strength to the work, and better enable
it to sustain the immense weight it was designed
to bear. All the ground before it, towards the

314 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, sea, had been levelled^ and was formerly

VIII. •'

covered by masonry, now only visible in a
few remaining traces. In this extraordinary
sepulchre, there is nothing which should induce
us to believe it to be of less antiquity than the
Tomb of Helen before described ; consequently
we may refer to it as offering a satisfactory
proof of the existence of circular arches, and
even of a dome, in architecture, four centuries
before the Christian sera.

We aftervv^ards ascended the cliffs, for the
purpose of examining more accurately what are
deemed, and with reason, the greatest curiosi-
ties of Macri ; the tombs cut out of the solid
rock, in the precipices towards the sea. The
labour here bestowed has been immense ; and
the work is very beautiful. Some of these are
more adorned than others, having, as was
before stated, a kind of portico, with pillars in
front. In those which w^ere almost plain, the
hevv^n stone was as smooth as if the artist had
been employed upon wood, or any other soft
substance. The exterior form of almost every
one of them cannot, perhaps, be better de-
scribed, .nan by comparing them with a familiar
article of household furniture, to which they
have great resemblance; namely, to those
book-cases, with glass doors, seen upon bureaus,

VI IT.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 3 15

surmounted by ornamented rail-work over the chajp.

front and sides. A small rectangular openino-,

scarcely large enough to pass through, admitted

us to the interior of some of them ; where we

found a square chamber, with one or more

receptacles for dead bodies, shaped like baths,

upon the sides of the apartment, and neatly

chiselled in the body of the rock. The mouths

of these sepulchres had been originally closed

by square slabs of stone, exactly adapted to

grooves cut for their reception ; and so nicely

adjusted, that, when the work was finished,

the place of entrance might not be observed.

Of similar construction, although not exactly

of the same form, were the sepulchres of the

Jeivs in Pal.estine; and particularly that in

w^hich our Saviour was buried, as will be more

fully shewn in the sequel '. Inscriptions appeared

upon several of them, but written in so many

different characters, and with such various

marks of time, that it is impossible to assign

any precise period for the age of their common

origin. Upon some of them were letters of no

remote date, as may be proved from the names

they served to express, and the manner in

which they were written ; and, close to these.

(1) " And laid him in a sepulchre which wa? hewn out of a rock, and
rolled a stoue unto the door of the sepulchre." Mark xv. 46.

316 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, were others of Phoenician workmanship. In

VIII.

' proof of this, we shall here insert two inscrip-

tions, copied from tombs adjoining each other ;
both being hewn out of the same rock, and, to
all appearance, by the same people. Upon the
first appeared,

Tl B EPIOYK A AYA I
OVn EPTA M OY

and upon the adjoining sepulchre these remark-
able characters:

A very antient mode of writing the name of the
city is evident in this inscription'. If the P I \,
written in such legible characters at the end, be
the date, it denotes a degree of antiquity irre-
concileable to the form of one of the letters, and
would carry us back to a period equal to two
thousand four hundred and forty-one years: but
it may specify a sum of money, as in the

(l) The arrow-headed character >«ffy be a numeral. See the first
Iiiicrij.tion in Mcffci Museum flroncnst:

RUINS OF TELMES8US. 317

termination of the inscription upon the Tomb of chap.

Helen. - - -y *

Over the entrance of a third sepulchre, near
to these, we found another very legible inscrip-
tion^, with a square Sigma:

AIOTEIMOYTOY
TAEnOAEMOYKAl
AIOTEIMOVAICTOY
TAEnOAEMOYnPOrONI KON

And over a fourth, an inscription less perfect,
with the same Sigma, of which we could only
discern these letters:

APICTEI AOYTOY ANAKTOC

KAITWNKAI OMWNAYTOY

But there were some of these sepulchres without Mmnutha'

Sepulchres.

any discoverable entrance, either natural or arti-
ficial; nor could we conceive how they were
formed, or in what manner bodies were con-
veyed into the interior. The slabs whence the
seeming doors were constructed, proved, upon
examination, to be integral parts of the solid

(2) The last word in this inscription, ^^oyoviKeM, may be translated
tiw>tu7ne7ihtm avkum ; vouoy being understood, t'id, Mnffci Museum
VtrcneJtsc, 59.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHAP, yock; neither would the interior have been dis-
vm.

' cerned, had it not been for a small irregular

aperture, broken by the people of the country
through one of the divisions hewn in imitation
of pannels. Through this hole, barely wide
enough for a person to thrust his head, we
obtained a view of the interior. Here we per-
ceived the same sort of chamber as in the others,
but without the smallest joint or crevice, either
belonging to the doors, or anywhere in its mas-
sive sides, by means of which a stone might be
removed, or any opening effected for a place of
admission. This may be left for explanation by
future travellers who visit Macri. It was to
us altogether incom.prehensible ; and therefore
it is better to curtail the marvellous, than, by
enlarging upon such a subject, to incur the
imputation of writing a romance. Something
like the curious cement, before mentioned S in
the Oracular Cave to the west of the Theatre,
might perhaps, by its resemblance to natural
stone, have deluded our observation, and thus
concealed a secret entrance to the tomh. There
is reason to suspect, from the general appearance
of their places of burial, that the Telmessensians
were not more studious of beauty and elegance
in their construction, than of preventing access

(1) Sec page- 258.

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 319

to them afterwards; and it is probable that, in ^"f/**
certain instances, the only clue to the interior was ^ » • ^
in the possession of the priests, or of the family
to whom these sepulchres belonged. Hence may
have oriofinated the Oriental tales of charms
used in admission to subterraneous caves, and
chambers of the dead'.

The next we visited was particularly remark-
able for its simplicity and beauty. The letters
of an inscription in the front of it were rude, and
barbarously engraven. A repetition of the words

THE MOXUMEXT (jO y^V'^UAt'ov), iu tWO liuCS OUC

above the other, without any other inscription,
is also remarkable. Within, it had three
receptacles for dead bodies, one on each side of
the chamber. One of the pannels in front was
open : the other never was intended to be so,
the rock behind being plain and entire ^ Of all

(2) There is something of this nature in Gray's translation of " The
Deseent of Odin," from the IVorse tongue.

*' Faring to the northern clime.
Thrice he traced the Runic rhyme;
Thrice pronounc'd, in accents dread.
The thrilling verse that wakes the dead ;
Till, from out the hollow ground.
Slowly breath'd a sullen sound :

' What call unknown, what charms presume,
* I'o break the quiet of the tomb ." "

(3) Its length, within, was five feet ten inches; and its breadth,
five feet two inches.

VIII.

320 RUINS OF TELMESSUS.

CHA1>. these tomhs, the most magnificent are those cut
in a precipice facing the sea. Many of them
have the appearance of being inaccessible; but
by dint of chmbing from rock to rock, at the
risk of a dangerous fall, it is possible to ascend
even to the highest. They have in front several
rude pillars, whose capitals exhibit the curva-
ture, or horn, which is generally considered as
denoting the Ionic style of architecture; and
those pillars are every one of them integral
parts of the solid rock, although some be
twenty feet high. The mouths of these sepul-
chres are closed with beautiful sculptured imita-
tions of brazen or iron doors, with hinges, knobs,
and bars. The porous nature of the rock had
occasioned filtrations, and a stalactite deposit
had nearly covered a very long inscription by
the side of one of them. All that could be
discerned was a repetition of the words 70
[j.vy}[j^ziovj as in the former instance. A species
of sage, growing, in great abundance, to the
size of a large shrub, also covered the rocks
here, yielding a fine aromatic smell. Enough
has perhaps already been said of these monu-
ments; and yet not more than a third part of
them has been described : the whole mountain
facing the sea is filled by their remains. After
examining that which has been last described,
we ascended to one above, appearing larger

RUINS OF TELMESSUS. 321

than any of the others. Here the rock consisted
of a beautiful breccia; and before the mouth
of tliis remarkable tovih were columns of that
substance, at least twenty feet in height. This
is the most elevated of all the sepulchres of
Telmessus. The view from it commands the bay.
Looking hence upon the water, it is easy to
perceive the traces of extensive Ruins stretching
into the sea, visible from this eminence, althousfh
covered by the waves. To the east of the town,
at a considerable distance from it, and near to
the mouth of the river Glaucus ', there appeared
to be the foundation of an antient work, which
seemed to have been part of a mole, and of a
fortress.

The peasants of Macri informed us, that ten
leagues to the east of what are called The Seven
Capes, or one day and a half's journey from these
Ruins, at a village called Kovniicky, there are other ^"'"*, ***"
very extensive ruins, among which may be dis-
cerned statues, columns, and several antient inscrip-
tions. These reports are often exaggerations : but
it may be of consequence to determine whether
the Ruins at Koynucky be not the remains of
Xanthus, or oi Paiara, cities of Lyci a, concerning

(l) " Amnis G/««c«m deferens 7V/mc5s«w." Pirn. Hist. Nat. lib. v.
torn. I. p. 272. L. Bat. 1635.

322 GULPH OF GLAUCUS.

^■vm' ^^'^^^^ modern state we have no information; the

' .■ — ' one celebrated for the siege it sustained against

Brutus, and the other for the enibelUshments
bestowed upon it by Ptolemy Philadelphus.

Turbulent Durin«? the time we remained in Macri Bay,

State of the ^ "^

Country, the Aghas of the country were at war : marauding"
parties, profiting by the general tumult, had
set fire to several villages. It was therefore
dangerous to venture far from the coast. In-
deed, the sea-side was not without its dangers.

Conduct of Captain Castle, venturing along the beach, in

t!ie Natives

upon the search of a convenient place to obtain a supply
of fresh water, fell into the hands of a party of
the natives, as wild and as ferocious in their
appearance as any of the tribes of Caucasus.
We found him surrounded by twenty-five armed
men, who had taken his dirk from him, and who
seemed very mischievously disposed. One of
these fellows, a sturdy mountaineer, wore, by
way of ornament, one of the buttons of a British
naval-officers uniform. We could not learn
how he obtained this : but as our interpreter
was not with us, it was proposed that we
should adopt a method resorted to by Captain
Cook in such situations, and prevail upon some
of these men, by signs, to accompany us on
board. Four of them consented, among whom
was the Chief. They followed us to the place

GULPH OF GLAUCUS. 323

where the boat was stationed ; but expressed chap.
visible uneasiness, and began to call loudly to
their companions on shore, as we stretched out
from the land towards the Taurida. We con-
ducted them, however, upon deck ; when a new
dilemma occurred ; for Captain Castle, con-
ceiving that he had been insulted by these men,
insisted upon fighting with their Chief. It was
with difficulty we could prevent this from being
noticed by the party who had ventured with
us ; but getting them all at last into the cabin,
and having appeased our worthy Captain, by
pointing out the danger to which he would
expose others of our countrymen, in offending
the natives of a coast frequented at that time
by our ships for wood and water, he consented
to overlook the indignity. After giving them
a dram each, with a little gunpowder, some
Constantinople pipes, tobacco, and coffee, they
were so gratified, that we might perhaps have
ventured with them even to Koynucky, whither
they offered to escort us. We contented our-
selves, however, in gaining their permission to
botanize unmolested around the Gulph; and, for
that purpose, accompanied them back to their
companions.

We landed upon the western side of the bay,
near to the place laid down in the chart as the

VOL. III. X

324

GULPH OF GLAUCUS.

CHAP.
VIII.

New-dis-
covered
Plants.

most convenient for watering ships', where a
river empties itself into the Gulph. Here we
fomid the ruins of several buildings ^ situate in
pools of stagnant water and most unwholesome
fens. The sands were covered with exceedingly
rare plants. To add to the extraordinary allure-
ments presented by the coast of Macri, it is pre-
eminently distinguished by the interest it offers
to the botanist. We found no less than eleven
new species, besides many almost unknown,
during our short examination of the place. The
new-discovered plants alone will be mentioned
in aJYote^; and the more general List reserved

(1 ) See the Vignetle to this Chapter.

(2) Perhaps the remains of Pinara, mentioned by Pliny. ' Ultra
par sinus priori : ibi Pinara, et quae Lyciam finit Telmessus." Plin.
Hist. Nat. lib.\. e. 27. torn. I. p. 371. L. Bat. 1G35.

(?,) I, A non-descript shrubby species oi Eupliorhia, with slender
flexuose shining shoots, and pointed leaves, about two-thirds
of an inch long, of a lanceolate form upon the lower part of the
branches, but gradually becoming more oval as they ascend.;
the rays of the umbel nearly of the same length with the invo-
lucre ; the divisions of the cal3'x very short, rounded, and entire ;
the petals toothed, nearly wedge-shaped. We have named it
Euphorbia iwucronata. Eupliorbia fruticosa, glabra; foliis
ovato-lanceolatis tmicronaiia integerrimis ; foUolis involiicri ova-
libus: involucelli ohovatis, ititegerrimis petulis dcntatis ; capsulis
verrucosis glahris.
II. A small non-descript species of Trigonella, with prostrate
pubescent stems, from three to five inches ^Dng ; the largest
leaflets measuring only a quarter of an inch. The pods very
narrow, hanging down, with the points again turned upwards,
like a bunch of fish-hot ks. Wc have named it TKiG0Ni2Li,A

llAMIOERA.

GITLPH OF GLAUCUS. 325

for an y^phcndix. We also visited a beautiful chap.

. . VIII.

little uninhabited island, lying in the mouth of ^ -,- >
the bay. It consists of a single mountain, AherLom-
covered with an exuberant vegetation, and with ^"*

HAMiGERA. TrigoTiclla legiwxinihus pcdicellutis, llnenriliis,
hnmnlis, declhiatis, pubescffntibus, pednnculo J'ructi/ero inermi
folio longiore foliolis cuneato-obovaiis, dentutis, sericeo-puhescen-
tibus.

III. A non-descript species of Galium, in habit resembling the
purine, or Common Cleavers, and the stems and leaves in the
same manner rough, with hooked pritklcs ; but differing in
having fewer leaves together, and their points more elongated,
and in the fruit being quite concealed in its long hooked bristles.
We have called it Galium TRACtiYCARPUM. This species is very
nearly allied to the Galium aparinoides of Forskahl. Galium
foUis senis septenisve anguslo-lancenlatis longe mucronatis, carinis
marginibusqtte aculealis ; fructu denslssim'h Idspido.

IV. A non-descript dwarf annual species of Bromus, about a foot in
height, with the heads of flowers nearly of an oval form, very
close, and shining, their length from one to two inches. We
have called it Bromus nitidus. Bromus annuus, humilis :
paniculd ovatd coaxctald ; spiculis hrevissime pedunculatis, erectis,
glabris, nitidis, subnovemjloris ; Jloribus diandris, aristis rcetis
glumis paulo-longioribus, scabris ; foliis pihso-hirsutis,

v. A non-descript spec\e% of Jlopecurus, about the heiglrt of the
Bromus nitidus, the heads of flowers nearly oblong, and placed
verj' little above their inflated sheath, the end of which gene-
rally rises above them ; the awns more than double the length
of the glumes. 'I'he species ought to be placed near the /]lope-
ciirus angustifulius of J^r. Sibthorpe. We have called it Alope-
cuftus FOLiosus. Alopeciirus spied ovato-oblongd glumis acutis
arista dimidio-brevioiibus, basin versus hirsutis, darso-asperis :
vaginis htflatis longis ; foliis striatis margine aspcr'is.
VI. A nou descript species of Onosma, with short crooked woody
stems, lanceolate, and blunt bristly leaves, from about half an
inch to an inch in length, the Ijuiiches of flowers short, nodding,
gem rally simple ; the corolla about a third part longer than the
2 X *':il^^>

326 GULPH OF GLAUCUS.

clouds of mosquitoes, " wheeling their droning
flioht," sole tenants of the wilderness, with the
exception of a few rabbits. The aromatic odour

calyx, and the stigma two-cleft. We have named it Bristly
Onostna. Onosma setigera. Onosma caule fruticenle, pumilo
tortuoso ; ramis brevibut hispidis ; foliis lanceolatis, papulosis, setts
pungentibus asperis ; racemis brevibus ; calycibus dense setosis ;
coroUd elongatd subeylindricd ; antheris excertis.
VII. A non-descript species of Trifolium, about nine or ten inches
long, the stem a little hairy upwards, with few branches, or
quite simple, the leaflets inversely heart-shaped and toothed ;
the flowers purple, in short close heads, persisting, and be-
comiDg rigid ; the standard very large, rounded above, but
narrowing downwards. The species ought to be arranged near
the well-known Trifolium spadiceum of Linnaeus, and the Tri-
foUum speciosum of Professor Willdenow. We have called it
Trifolium ciliatum. Trifolium annuum,spicis subovatis hemi-
sphecrisve pmicijloris, co7-olld cariosd majusculd ; petalis denti-
culatis; calycis dentibus subulads, ciliatis, inaqualihus ; foUolis
obcordatis denticulatis ; stipuUs ciliatis mojusculis.
* * * *

Upon the Isle of j^bercrombie, in the mouth of the Gulph, we dis-
covered, among other very rare plants, the four following entirely
new species, hitherto undescribed by any author.

I. A tall non-descript species of Scrophularia, with the leaves
repeatedly cut and jagged into narrow sharp segments ; the
pannicle of flowers from one to two feet or more in length,
with bracts, the lowermost of which are pinnatified, and the
uppermost ends nearly linear at the subdivisions ; and the
flowers about as large as in Scrophularia canina. We have
called it Scrophularia Silaifolia. Scrophularia glabra, foliis
tripinnatifidis laciniis angustis acutis ; panicula terminali lon-
gissimo.

II. A non-descript species of Laserpilium, the lower leaves of
which are from eight inches to a foot or more in length, and
from two to three inches across where they are broadest,
having nearly the general outline of an ostrich feather, except
in being less flattened, and more attenuated upwards ; their

segments

GULPH OF GLAUCUS. 327

exhaled from the shrubs and herbs by which it is chap

VIII.

completely mantled, is quite as powerful as in the
scented atmosphere of Rhodes, A few solitary

segments repeatedly suhtlivided, till they become as fine as
threads : the leaves on the stem have the same outline, but
their seg^ments are more distant from each other. The stems
are smooth ; and vary, in the specimens we saw, from a foot to
more than two feet in height. The umbels have from eight to
twelve rays, and measure from two to four inches over: their
partial umbels are small, and crowded with flowers ; the petals
yellow. We have called this very beautiful plant Laserpitium
ELEGANS. Laserpitittm folds decompositis circumscriptione ob-
longo-plu mi/or mibus, laciniis subsetaceis mvcrnnatis glabris ;
petiolis glabris striatis ; involucri laciyiiis elovgatis upice tenuissi-
niis ; umbellis hemisphtcricis.

TIT. A non-descript species of yerbascum, from five to six fcetliigh,
the stem erect, shrubby, and a little cottony, as well as the
leaves, which are from an inch and a half to two inches or more
in length : the lowermost attenuated downwards into long foot-
stalks, the uppermost sessile. The bunches of flowers on the
smaller plants eight or ten inches long, nearly simple, on large
plants eighteen inches or more in length, very much branched,
and twiggy; the flowers yellow, about an inch in diameter;
the filaments woolly towards the base, and one of them always
shorter than the rest. We have named this species Verbascum.
STRicTUAi. Verbascum caule fruticoso erecto, foUis inferiorilus
spatulato-ovatis petiolatis, superioribus ovato-lanceolatis obsoletis-
sini€ dcnlatis integerrimisve sessilibus; omnibus pifis stellatis
canescentibus, muticis; rucemo clongato; pcdictliis cahjce longi-
oribus divaricatis.

IV. A non-descrij)t shrubby species of Hypericum, with upright
stems, from one to two feet high ; the largest leaves little mope
than an inch in length : the flowers of a golden yellow, small,
with petals double the length of the calyx. We have called it
Hypericum virgatum. Hypericum fruticosum foribus trigynis,
cali/cibus obtusis, glanduloso-ediutis . rncemis cauUbus gracilibus
quintu})lh hrevioribus, termiiialibus : J'oliis iiUcrnodiis, longioribus
erectn-pntuUs, punctatis, nudis, subtus glaucis ; inferioribus
spatulato-oblongis ,- superioribus li)iearibus margine rcvolulis.

328 GULPH OF GLAUCUS. '

graves of unknown persons appeared upon
the shore ; containing, probably, the bodies of
British seamen, who had fallen victims to the
pestilential air oftheGulph, during their station
here. We added to the number of the live
animals found upon it, by losing four out of the
fourteen sheep put on shore by our crew to
graze, while we remained at anchor. Neither
antient nor modern geographers have bestowed
any name upon this island ; which is the more
remarkable, as it aftbrds a very important land-
mark for vessels entering the Gulph. Its lofty
conical form, resembling those sepulchral mounds
erected by antient nations as monuments of
departed heroes, together with its situation,
surrounded by vast monuments of the dead,
have qualified it for a natural cenotaph. It may
therefore bear the name of Abercrombie;
whose immortal glory, unfading as the peren-
nial foliage with which it is invested, will
flourish to the end of time ; while the boasted
renown of every howling soothsayer of Tel-
MESsus is hushed in oblivion.

Jaqufs Abd'allah Menuu.

CHAP. IX.

FROM ASIA MINOR TO EGYPT.

The Taurida sails for Egypt — Vigilance of the English
Cruizers — Extraordinary Instance of the Propagation
of Sound — Astonishing Appearance presented by the
British Fleet — Spectacle caused hy the Ravages of War
— State of Affairs upon the Author's Arrival — Obstacles
encountered hy the Expedition under Sir Ralph Ahef-
crombie — Sir Sidney Smith — Account of the Campaign
— Cause of the Delay in landing the Troops — Death of

Major

330 FROM ASIA MINOR

Major M' Arras — Descent of the Army — Battle, and
Victory, of the Eighth of March — General Menou
— Affair of the Twelfth — Action of the Tliirteejith —
Battle of the Twenty-first — Sensation caused by the
Death of Abercromhie — Measures pursued by his Suc-
cessor — View of the Country — Journey to Rosetta —
Mirage.

IX. 1 HE impatience of our Captain to proceed
' • " with his earo^o to the fleet, added to the weak
rida sails state of thc author's health, made us eagfer to

for Egi/jit. _ ^

leave Macri. Having got on board our stock of
water, and our sheep from Abercromhie s Isle, a
contrary wind prevailing, we beat out of the
Gulph, and made our course for Egypt. The
wide surface of the Libyan Sea was before us.
We entertained anxious thoughts concerning
the safety of our little bark, deeply laden, and
ill-suited, either in her complement of mariners
or in her construction, to encounter the deadly
gales and the calms of the Mediterranean.
Landsmen, however, are generally erroneous in
their calculations at sea. The success of the
voyage surpassed our most sanguine expecta-
tions. A land-breeze came on soon after we
had cleared the Gulph, the sea was unruffled,
and we stole along, almost imperceptibly, with
hardly a wind or any sensible motion, over
a surface so tranquil, that a glass full of
water might have remained upon deck without

TO EGYPT. 331

spillin"" a drop. During this voyage, which chap.
continued only five days, the most surprising y _•
vigilance was manifested by our cruizers, who offhe''^^
had the guardianship of the coast of Egypt, crdf^'
Over an expanse comprehending six degrees of
latitude, 'it might have been supposed that a
vessel lying so low in the water, and so small as
the ship in which we sailed, would escape ob-
servation : but we were spoken to at least half-
a-dozen times ; and the master of one of the
cruizers actually boarded the Taurida, believing,
from her French aspect, that he should take
possession of her as a prize. A very remark- Extran.

'■ i. J dinary in-

able circumstance occurred, which may convey ^'^nc^ of

the propa-

notions of the propagation of sound over water, gation of
greater than will perhaps be credited; but we
can appeal to the testimony of those who were
witnesses of the fact, for the truth of that which
we now relate. By our observation of latitude,
we were an hundred miles from the Egyptian
coast: the sea was perfectly calm, with little
or no swell, and scarcely a breath of air stirring,
when Captain Castle called our attention to the
sound as of distant artillery, vibrating in a low
gentle murmur upon the water, and distinctly
heard at intervals during the whole day. He
said it was caused by an engagement at sea,
and believed the enemy had attacked our fleet
off Alexandria. No such event had, howevei',

sound.

332 FROM ASIA MINOR

taken place ; and it was afterwards known, that
the sounds we then heard proceeded from an
attack made by our troops against the fortress
of Rachmanie upon the Nile beyond Rosetta: this
had commenced upon that day, and hence alone
the noise of guns could have originated. The
distance of Rachmanie from the coast, in a direct
line, is about ten leagues : this allows one hun^
dred and thirty miles for the space through
which the sound had been propagated, when it
reached our ears.

On the sixteenth of April, towards sun-set,
we first made the fleet off Alexandria from the
mast-head of the Taurida. Our Captain, being
out of his course, mistook it for the fleet of
troop ships and other transports. Evening
coming on, we steered for the harbour of
Alexandria, believing it to be Ahoukir Bay, and
wishing to get in before it grew dark; an in-
tention which would soon have been interrupted
by the guns of our fleet, if we had persevered ;
but the boatswain at length perceiving our
error, we lufled up, and lay-to all night. In
the morning of April the seventeenth, we saw
Alexandria very distinctly, with the French ships
lying in the harbour; and had a fine view of
the famous Column called Pompeys Pillar, as
well as of the Obelisk to which mariners give

TO EGYPT. 333

the name of Cleopatra s Needle. A stiff gale chat.
coming on, we steered along the coast for v ..,■ ^
Aboukir. About nine o'clock a.m. we made
Nelsons Island; and presently saw the whole
fleet of troop ships, transports, with all the
Turkish frigates, merchant vessels, and other
craft, belonging to the Expedition. It was the Astonish-
grandest naval sight we had ever beheld ; and a"iSe pre-"^'
much more surprising in its appearance than the*Bndsh
the famous Russian armament, prepared at ^^^^*'
Portsmouth during a former war. Innumerable
masts, like an immense forest, covering the
sea; swarms of sailing-boats and cutters, plying
about in all directions between the larger
vessels; presented a scene which it is not
possible to describe. We stood on, for a con-
siderable distance, to the eastward of Nelsons
Island, in order to avoid the shoal where the
Culloden struck before the action of the Nile;
our course being precisely the same pursued by
the British fleet previous to that memorable
engagement; and the fleet of transports lying
at anchor, afforded a correct representation of
the position of the French armament upon that
occasion.

Bearing down at last upon the fleet, we
passed under the stern of the Delft frigate ;
when, being unmindful of the temerity of our

IX.

334 EGYPT.

CHAP, proceeding, we ventured to hail a young officer
upon the poop, and to inquire for the situation
of the Braakel. Captain Castle immediately
warned us to beware of repeating the question ;
saying, that we should soon be sensible of the
immeasurable distance at which the inhabitants
of those floating islands hold the master of a
merchant smack : and so it was proved by the
answer, which came, like thunder, in three
monosyllables, easier for the reader to imagine
than for an author to express. Soon after, the
Quarter-master of the Braakel came alongside,
in the jolly-boat ; Captain Clarke, who expected
us, having surmised, as he afterwards informed
us, from our pitiful appearance and wavering
4:rack, that we were his visitors, and in want of
a pilot. Having reached his comfortable cabin,
we were soon introduced to the officers both of
the army and the navy ; and found, after our long
absence from England, the society of our coun-
trymen particularly grateful. We enjoyed, what
we had long wanted, the guidance of books and
of well-informed men, concerning countries we
were yet to explore. According to the promise
we had made to the Capudan Pasha, we accom-
panied Captain Clarke to the Sultan Selim, and
introduced him to the Turkish Admiral. Several
days were employed in visiting the different
ships^, in search of friends and schoolfellows;

EGYPT. 335

some of whom, particularly of those belonging chap.
to the Guards, we had the misfortune to find > '/ _■
desperately wounded. The sight of many of spectacle
our gallant officers, in a wounded state, or SeTatage*
brought from the shore incapable of service from °* ^^ '""■
the injuries of the climate, presented a revolting
picture of the ravages of war. One day, leaning
out of the cabin window, by the side of a
wounded officer who was employed in fishing,
the corpse of a man, newly sewed in a ham-
mock, started half out of the water, and slowly
continued its course, with the current, towards
the shore. Nothing could be more horrible:
its head and shoulders were visible, turning
first to one side, then to the other, with a move-
ment so solemn and awful, that one might have
imagined it was impressed with some dreadful
secret of the deep, which, from its watery grave,
it came upward to reveal'. Such sights were
afterwards more common; hardly a day passing
without ushering the dead to the contemplation
of the living, until at length they passed with-
out our observation. Orders were afterwards

(1) Precisely in the same manner, the corpse of Carraccioli rose and
floated in the Bay of Naples, and was seen coming to Naples, swimming
half out of the water. " A fact so extraordinary," says Mr. Southey,
" astonished tlie King, and perhaps excited some feelings of superstitious
fear, akin to regret." See Soufh.c//'s Life of Nelson, vol. II. p. 53. Lond.
1813.

336 EGYPT.

CHAP, issued, to convey the bodies for interment upon
^-' ^ N'elsoiis Island, instead of casting them over-
board. The shores of Egi/pt might in truth
have been described as washed with blood.
The bones of thousands were whitening, ex-
posed to a scorching sun, upon the sands of
u4bouMr^ . If we number those who had fallen
since the first arrival of the French upon the
coast, in their battles with the Turks'^, Aral-s, and
English, we shall find no part of their own
ensanguined territory so steeped in human
gore. Add to this the streams from slaughtered
horses, camels, and other animals, (the stench
of whose remains was almost sufficient to raise
a pestilence even before tlie arrival of the
English,) and perhaps no part of the world ever
presented so dreadful an example. When a
land-wind prevailed, our whole fleet felt the

(1) Between the village of [Ilko, and a place called the Caravanserai,
^\•e saw the shore entirely covered with human sculls and bones. Dogs
were raking the sands for human flesh and caiTion. I^'elson's Island
became a complete charnel-house, wliere our sailors raised mounds of
sand over the heaps of dead cast up after the action of the 2^tle. Even
military men, who have published an account of the Expedition, have
expressed the horror which these scenes excited; nor would anyone envy-
that man his feelings who could view them with indifference.

(2) Ten thousand Turks were drowned at once in the Bay of Aboulclr ,-
being driven into the sea by Buonajmrte, after the slaughter of four
thousand of their countrymen in the field of battle. See the Plate, repre-
senting this dreadful massacre, in Dcnon's " Voyage (V Egyple," PI. 89.
and also a narrative of the fact, p. 259.

EGYPT. 337

tainted blast; while from beneath the hulks of chap.
our transports, ships that had been sunk% with
all the encumbering bodies of men and car-
cases of animals, sent through the waves a
fearful exhalation.

At the time of our arrival, the French had state of

afl'airs

been defeated in three successive actions; — that upon the-
of the eighth of March, the day of landing our arrival,
troops; the thirteenth, when the English drove
them from the heights to which they had
retreated; and the memorable battle of the
twenty-first, when Ahercrombie fell. There had
been a skirmish on the twelfth; in which Colonel
Archclale, of the twelfth dragoons, lost an arm,
and Captain Butler of the same regiment was
taken prisoner. In the action of the twenty-
first, the French lost five thousand men ; eleven
hundred of whom the English buried before
their own lines, and in diflferent parts of their
camp. We saw the trenches in which they
were deposited.

It is a subject of wonder, that our troops
should have succeeded in this instance so well
as they did. They landed under every possible

(3) Part of the L^ Orient, with one of her cables, was raised by the
crew of the Ceres, Captain Russel, in weighing anchor.

Obstacles
©ncoun-

338 EGYPT.

circumstance of disadvantage, and yet drove
from their posts, with the bayonet, the veteran
legions o^ Buonapartts army; a mode of fighting
the'^Ex^. 1^ which the French were supposed, at that
undo" s'r ti'^^^' ^^ ^^ superior to every other nation. It
Ralph ^ras there manifested, as it has since been so

Abcrcrom-

i>'e- decidedly proved, that, man to man, they have

no chance of success when opposed to British
soldiers. The laurels gained by our army in
Egypt can never fade'. Posterity will relate
the heroism, which, on these remote and almost
unknown deserts, enabled an inexperienced
army to vanquish an enemy, not only in pos-
session of the territory, but also inured to the
climate, and well acquainted with the country.
The obstacles encountered by our troops were
greater than have ever been described, the
most powerful of which originated in their want
of information. Never did so much ignorance
characterize an expedition. The maps they
brought with them would have disgraced a
Chinese Atlas. The instruction which they had
received was a mere mass of error; and their
guides were unable to direct them. It is said,
Sir Ralph Abercromhie lamented, in his last
moments, the false notions he had been taught to

(1) " The meanest soldier of that army," said Mr. Sheridan, "ought t©
b^ covered with laurels,"

EGYPT. 339

entertain of Egypt, and of the situation in which chap.
the French were there placed. In fact, eveiy \ ' ■
one possessed more information than the con-
ductors of the British armament. There was
not a clerk in the factory of Constantinople or of
Smyrna who was not better informed. Instead
of the flat sands they expected to find between
Ahoukir and Alexandria, they discovered a coun-
try full of eminences and advantageous posts :
the French, when defeated, had therefore only
to fall back from one strong position to another.
Once having effected a landing, our troops were
told — and they believed the tale — that they
might march without interruption to the walls
of Alexandria. It may be important to the in-
terests of our empire to state the truth, at this
distance of time ; and to afford a brief record
of this memorable campaign, as far as it can be
communicated by a writer destitute of any
military science : it will be given as he received
it, from the most impartial among the French,
as well as from the most candid of his own
countrymen.

The divisions and cabals among the Chiefs on
both sides, were productive, often of failure,
and sometimes of disaster. The rare military
talents and valour of Sir Sidney Smith, beloved sir .<r/d«fy
too as he was by the soldiers and sailors of the

:>,40 EGYPT.

CHAP, expedition, could not be viewed without jea-

I \
V [' 1 lousy by the commanding officers both of the

army and navy. The most unpardonable re-
sistance was therefore opposed to his measures,
and to his suggestions. His situation was, in
truth, singular. Some of the Captains in the
fleet felt umbrage because one of their profes-
sion associated so much with landsmen, and
was so often on shore; while the Generals of
the army could ill brook counsel, or even assist-
ance, from a naval officer. Upon this account,
the important project, which was recommended
by him, of sending gun-boats into the Lake of
Aboukir' previous to the action of the thirteenth
of March, and the voluntary offer he made of
conducting that operation, with a view to
impede the retreat of the French, were not only

(1) In the extraordinary changes to which this part o£ Egypt has been
liable, the vei^ limited observations of the author do not authorize even an
attempt to reconcile the existing appearance of the country with the
description of antient geographers. Strabo (lib. xvii. p. 1135. ed Oxon.)
journeying by land from the Canopian Gate of Alexandria towards the
east, arrives, after the distance of one hundred and twenty stadia (fifteen
miles), at the city of Canojms. This seems to coincide with the position
otAhoukir. But as to the present lake, the result of an inundation
during the year 1784, wliether it cover the original course of the Aieipu^
(by means whereof, as distinct from the Alexandrian Canal, the annual
■voyage took place from Canopus to Alexandria), or whether it occupy ter-
ritory formerly inundated, in a similar manner, by the sea ; or if the site
of Aboukir may not rather be that of Taposiris than of Canopus, a(?cord-
ing to Forsler's conjecture, in his Notes upon Granger, supported by the
testimonifs of Z\icbnhr ; may remain for future determination.

F 3f ^ AT W ['f

Z A K£ MA RJE O T I S

This ZuAf was dn/ habtr Me S/m'if.t ifherv j^,^ «.iM""

imulr in^4pnll8(U dslntimis t/im S fn^ -^ _- '"

h-iou- r/w ,rarrrct't/,fl,}Av SiiM .

EGYPT. 341

rejected, but his information respecting that chap.
lake was disregarded: it was even asserted, v -v " "'
that there was not water sufficient in the lake
for the free passage of boats of burden, fit for
the conveyance of artillery or troops; although
Sir Sidney Smith had himself been there, in his
ship's cutter, and had sounded every part of
it. One of his private letters, about this time,
to his brother- in Constantinople, reflects so
much credit upon his patriotism and national
character, that it deserves a place in the history
of the Expedition. Having stated the peculia-
rities of his situation, and the obstacles he had
to encounter in his earnest endeavours to serve
his country, he added, " It is true, I once held
the helm ivhere I must now tvork a labouring oar;
hut I shall not pull less stoutly on that account."

The fleet, with our army, arrived in Marmorice causes of
Harbour, upon the coast of Caria, on the inkmUng
twenty-eighth day of December, 1800. Having "^" '''""P'-
waited there near two months, during which
time a small reinforcement arrived from England,

(2) John Spcnsc}- Smith, Esq. his Majesty's Envoy Extraordinarj' and
IMinibtcr Plenipotentiary, previous to the arrival of the Enrl of Elgin, at
the Ottoman Porte.

VOL. III. V

342 EGYPT.

CHAP, it sailed for Egypt on the twenty-second' of
February. The troops, burning for action, in
excellent health and spirits, arrived in Ahouhir
Bay upon the second of March, at ten o'clock
A. M. A sham descent had been practised in
Marmorice, to exercise the soldiers. By this it
was found, that six thousand men might be
landed, in the most perfect order, and ready for
immediate action, in the short space of twenty-
three minutes. Their passage had been bois-
terous. Several Greek transports parted from the
fleet during a gale of wind, and disappeared
for many days, with part of the twelfth, the
twenty-sixth, and HompescKs, regiments of Dra-
goons. Owing perhaps to this circumstance, or
finding that it was too late to land the troops
upon the day of their arrival, the undertaking-
was postponed until the next: an unfortunate
circumstance, although perhaps unavoidable, as
an opportunity was thereby lost, not to be after-
wards recovered. Had the landing been then
effected, it is now known that we should have
encountered no opposition; and it is also cer-
tain that the reserve at least might have been
put on shore. The enemy, although long

(1) According to Sir R. Wilsoii's Narrative, this happened on the
twenty -third. Tlvc author gives his information as he received it from
the captains of the fleet, and from the log-books of their sliips.

s's^ ssss ssgs s^

FIRST LINE

/',.,.,,„/,.,/',:„,„,/ W,„/,

B G B s BSE

Secokb ]Li:^e.

<--^ <r'

C2yM<y/>?-^£->/^/^i/ ■- /iocfJ'<J^

Q S

B B S l\i

TIBLE RESERVE

J^hH^h^ ^f<n J:^JS12 hy T. laJtS an^ TlZI^niiar. StnimJ.

EGYPT. 343

before informed of our approach, was totally chap.
unprepared; and the lives of many brave soldiers ■>

might have been spared. The following day
proved unpropitious, and our army was unable
to land: in consequence of this, the enemy
gained time to strengthen himself, and to
spread news of the invasion in all parts of the
country where his forces were stationed. Pre-
parations were accordingly made for a stout
opposition. The succeeding morning was equally
unfavourable, and six days were lost in the
same manner; daring all which time, the
English fleet remained in sight of the French
army ; and was at length so little regarded, that
the French, becoming dupes by the delay,
believed the whole to be intended as a feint, ,
which might beguile their attention from the
part of the coast where the descent was really
meditated. So completely did this opinion
finally prevail, that the time thus allowed them
to prepare for their defence was not employed
so advantageously as it might have been. A
Greek deserter, sent, as they afterwards believed,
by our army, had circulated among them a
report, to which implicit credit was given,
affirming that our intention was to land the
army at Jajri, upon the coast of Si/ria.

The delay shewn upon this occasion was not

Y 2

344 EGYPT.

solely owing to the weather. A pnncipal source
of it might be referred to another cause. Major
M' Arras, chief engineer, had been forwarded,
in. a vessel, previous to the sailing of our fleet
from the Bay of Marmorice, in order to recon-
noitre the country, and to obtain information
necessary for expediting the landing of our,
troops. This officer had been twice on shore,
either in the Penelopes or the Petrelfs boat
and with the greatest success. He had ob-
served the Lake of Ahoukir ; had surveyed all,
the adjoining territory ; ascertained the different ,
heights ; and selected a convenient place for
landing. Having finished all his plans, he,
unfortunately ventured on shore the third time, ,
to confirm the accuracy of certain observations ;
and was observed by a French, armed boat, .
in- the very instant when he was putting off to
return to his ship. The wind was against him ;
and the crew of his boat finding every effort
ineffectual, suffered it to fall alongside, and sur- .
Death of rendered. By a most dastardly instance of
M'Arras. cruclty ou tlic part of the French, they poured a
volley of musketry into the boat, after the
surrender had taken place; by which Major
M'Arras was killed. Soon after this disaster^
our fleet arrived ; and the Commander-in-chief,
instead of obtaining the information confidently
expected, was reduced to the dilemma of waiting

EGYPT. 345

until the business of reconnoitring-, now ren- chap.
dered more difficult than ever, could in some ^ .\'- _.
measure be again accomphshed.

Thus was the descent of our army postponed Descent of
until the eighth of March. The French had ^^"^ '^'^"'^"
gained even more time than they thought
proper to employ for the means of defence ; and
were stationed upon the sandy heights eastward,
and within gun-shot, of Aboukir Castle, between
that fortress and the entrance to the lake. The
spot selected for landing the troops was imme-
diately under this hill ; and that a worse place
could hardly have been chosen, is evident from
this circumstance, that the enemy had, besides
their artillery upon the heights, a covering for
their flanks, of eight field-pieces upon the right,
and four upon the left. These, together with
the guns of the castle, bore down upon the place
of landing^ The day prior to that of the
descent, signals were made to cook three days'
provisions for the troops, and for boats of every
description to put off from their respective ships,
and to repair to the Mondovi brig, as a point of

(1) It is known to every officer who attended this Expedition, that
the army might have been landed anywhere to the eastward, near Rosetta,
without the loss of a single man. Whenever it is asked, Why was not
this the case? there is but one mode of reply; namely, that which is
suggested by another interrogation : Why were we as ignorant of the
country of which we came to take possession, as of the interior of Africa?

346 EGYPT.

CHAP, rendezvous, when a false fire should be shewn

< — ,- — ' from the Foudroyant, the ship of the Commander^

vktory of hi-chief. On the following morning, the eighth

tfuirciu of March, at three o'clock a. m. the expected

signal was made. Agreeably to the instructions

given, every boat then repaired to take in her

proportion of troops from the ship, or ships, to

which they were allotted; and then proceeded

to the appointed station, close under the hill,

about a league from the enemy, whence they

were to move, according to the order of battle :

there they all remained, until the whole of the

reserve was collected around the Mondovi.

Never was any thing conducted with greater
regularity. The French, to their astonishment,
as they afterwards often related, instead of
beholding a number of men landed pell-mell,
saw the Hriiish troops preserving a regular line,
as they advanced in their boats, although the
wind was directly in their teeth; and, finally,
landing in due order of battle, under the
heaviest fire perhaps ever experienced. Shells,
cannon-balls, and grape-shot, coming with the
wind, fell like a storm of hail ' about them ; yet

(l) The sailors upon this occasion compared t'le !l> ck shower of
shot falling: about them to a violent storm of hail which the fleet had
experienced in the Bay of Marmorice, when the hail-stones were said
to have been as large as musquet -balls. *' On the eighth of February,"

says

l.^Loi'v).;

I.,iiiii,l„w iiitli ,;iiii.. fl.it/.

liitlrr.s- <lli,;itl /"/■ //.

(

- — §H§Hay 9—

/iMWi.J MnlS^M: fyrr.tJM .,:,./ irjin

EGYPT. 347

not a soldier quitted his seat or moved, nor did chap.
a single sailor shrink from the hard labour of ^

his oar. Not a musket was suffered to be
charged, until the troops could form upon the
strand. They were commanded to sit still in
the boats : and this command, with incon-
ceivable firmness, did these men obey ; with
the exception only of returning for each volley
of shot from their enemies three general cheers,
an effect of ardour in which their officers found
it impossible to restrain them. The feelings of
those who remained in the ships were not proof
against such a sight. Several of our brave
seamen wept like children ; and many of those
upon the quarter-decks, who attempted to use
telescopes, suffered the glasses to fall from their
hands, and gave vent to their tears.

But the moment of triumph was at hand.
For three long miles, pulling in this manner

says Sir /?. JVilson. Hist.ofthe Exp. p. 5.) "commenced the most violent
thunder and hail storm ever remembered, and wliich continued two
days and nights interniittiugly. The hail, or rather the ice stones,
WERE AS BIG AS LARGE WALNUTS." — Diodurus Siculiis (lib. XX.) men-
tions a storm of hail which happened at Rlwdes in the spring of the
year 316 before Otrist, when the hail-stones were upwards of a pound
in weight, and the houses were thrown down by the weight of them.
We have accounts of a similar nature in sacred Scripture : * The
Lord cast down great stones from heaven upon them unto Azekah, and
they died : they were morewiiich died with hailstones, than they whom
the children of Israel slew with the sword." Joshua x. 11.

348 EGYPT.

CHAP, aoaiiist the wind, did our brave tars strain

IX.

' every sinew. Several boats were sunk by the

bursting of the shells, and about two hundred
and seventy men were killed before they
reached the shore. At length, M^ith all their
prows touching the beach at the same instant,
the boats grounded. Then a spectacle was
presented that will be ever memorable. Two
hundred of the French cavalry actually charged
into the sea, and were seen for a few seconds
hacking the men in the boats : these assailants
were every one killed. It was now about ten
o'clock ; and within the space of six minutes,
from this important crisis, the contest was
decided. The soldiers of the forty-second regi-
ment, leaping up to their middle in water,
formed rapidly upon the shore; and with a
degree of impatience nothing could restrain,
without waiting to load their muskets, broke
from the main line before it could be formed,
and ran gallantly up the hill, sinking deep in
the sand at every step they took '. In this

(1) Sir R. Wilson relates, that the twenty-third aud/ortieth ran first
up the hill, and, charging with the bayonet the two battalions which
crowned it, carried the two Nole hills in the rear, and took three pieces
of cannon. " The f or tij -second," says he, " had landed, and formed as
on a parade." Hist.of Exped. p. 14. Where " a/?nost preeecrnatural
energy" was everywhere displayed, it is of little moment to ascertain
the most impetuous. Sir Robert had every opportunity of ascertaining
the truth ; but a difl'erence in his statement would not justify the

author

IX.

EGYPT. 349

perilous situation a body of French cavalry chap.
charged down upon them ; but, instead of being *«
thrown into any disorder, they coolly received
the charge upon the points of their bayonets ;
and the rest of the army coming up, routed the
enemy on all sides. The French fled with the
greatest precipitation. Our troops had been
taught to expect no quarter, and therefore none
was given. The wounded and the dying neither
claimed nor obtained mercy ; all was blood, and
death, and victory. It is in the midst of the
glory this day's success reflected upon the
■British arms, that Humanity remembers some
things she may wish to forget, but never will
record. The cool and patient valour with
which our soldiers had sustained the torrent
of French artillery, and beheld the streaming
wounds of their companions, previous to their
landing, could but prove a prelude to the fury
they would manifest, w^hen it became their turn

author in altcriug notes made from testimony upon the spot, in order
to copy the narrative even of a more accurate writer. Having after-
wards an occasion to examine the place of landing, the author visited
the hill here alluded to ; and was at a loss to conceive, how troops
could charge rapidly with fixed bayonets against a heavy fire, where,
unimpeded by any other difficulty than the sinking of his foot in the
Joose sand, he found it almost impraclicable to ascend. The fact,
however, only proves what ardent valour may accomplish ; for that
this was really-done, it would be absurd to doubt.

350 EGYPT.

CHAP. 40 attack; and a consequence so inseparable
V .-v ./ from human nature must bring along with it
thoughtless havoc, and indiscriminate slaugh-
ter. Our loss in killed and wounded upon
this occasion amounted to five hundred and
sixty.

General - When our troops landed, Jaques Ahd'allah

Menou. ^

Menou, Commander-in-chief of the French forces
in Egypt, was in Cairo. Intelligence had been
repeatedly sent to him, accompanied by entreaty,
that he would hasten to the relief of Alexandria.
The French described him as a pompous,
obstinate, corpulent man, entirely absorbed in
composing or in delivering harangues to his
soldiers. No persuasion could induce him to
move. He considered the affair of our invasion
as of little importance. Until our army had
actually gained footing in the country, and
twice defeated the French troops, he took no
measures to interrupt their progress. According
to the French statement. General Friavt, with a
body of cavalry, amounting to fifteen hundred
men, was the only force upon the spot to
oppose the landing of the English army. Had
the resistance been greater, and Menou present,
it is believed, that, with all the advantages
possessed by the French, a descent upon the
coast would have been impracticable.

EGYPT. 351

A skirmish took place upon the twelfth of chap.
March. In this affair the twelfth regiment of ■

Dragoons, by too precipitate a charge, suffered j^^^^Jt)^"
very considerably. Colonel Archdale, who com-
manded it, lost an arm, receiving a shot, in
the very instant that he raised his sabre as ft
signal for his troop to advance, from one of the
Tirailleurs. This did not prevent him from
leading his men gallantly through a bcdy of
the enemy, much superior in number. Captain
Butler of the same regiment was also tak^n
prisoner. This brave but rash action was pub-
lickly reprehended by our Commander-in-chief;
and the army was cautioned against the ill
effects of too impetuous zeal and intemperate
valour. The command of the twelfth devolved
upon Colonel Brown; and Colonel Archdab
came on board the Braakel.

On the thirteenth, the followins: day, our Action of
army attacked and drove the enemy from the teemh.
heights to which they had retreated after the
action of the eighth. This battle was despe-
rately fought on both sides, and mutual loss
sustained to a very considerable amount. The
result, however, made it eviilent that no resist-
ance could be offered to the Eugiish bayonet.
It was also discovered, that upon this occasion
the French used bidlets and cannon-shot of

352 EGYPT.

CHAP, copper and brass; generally deemed a disho-
.- - -' • nourable practice, as calculated only to gratify
cruelty and malice. The slightest wounds so
inflicted are said, with what truth others
may determine, to be mortal. This species of
ammunition was obtained from the sheathing of
ships in the port of Alexandria. Several of
those balls were exhibited in the fleet, and some
of them we afterwards found in the sand where
-the action took place. An opinion then pre-
. vailed, that if the action of the thirteenth had
been properly followed up, the English would
have been the same day in possession of Alex-
andria. We had reason afterwards to believe
this would have been the case, by information
from the people of the city; stating, that no
reinforcement having arrived from Cairo, the
merchants, tradesmen, and other inhabitants,
were compelled to mount the ramparts, and
attend the gates as sentinels; who would gladly
have cast away their arms to receive the English,
or would have turned them upon the French
during their retreat. Instead of this being-
done, the enemy were allowed to establish
themselves, in a very advantag*eous position,
upon some heights before the walls, whence it
• was found exceedingly difficult to dislodge
them. To this place our army pursued them;
and then retreated to an eminence near some

EGYPT. „.«

3o3

Ruins, rendered afterwards renowned, as the ctiap.

theatre of the most dreadful carnage during the ^ ^j_

glorious battle of the twenty-first.

About the nineteenth, Menou arrived in Alex-
andria, pouring forth a torrent of abuse upon
the garrison and troops who had opposed the
landing of tlie English army. Delivering one of
his turgid harangues, he reproached them',
*' in allowing, to tlieir' everlasting shame, an army
of heroes to be chastised by a mob of English school-
boys.'' The fat figure of Menoii, added to his
blustering and gasconading manner, rendered
him a pleasant object of ridicule to the natural
vivacit}'" of Frenchman, who distinguished him
by the appellation of " Cochon-Ganeral T fre-
quently retiring from the parade highly diverted
by his fanfaroniiades. Having ended the speech
he had prepared for the occasion of his arrival,
immediate preparations were made for a general
attack upon the English, with his whole force ;
" pour aneantir les Anglois," as he termed it,
tout d'un coup.'' The day for this great event
Avas fixed for the twenty-first, when our army
was to be surprised, before day-light, in its

(l) The words were given to nie Ly some French ofl'icers wlio were
present upon that occasion.

354 EGYPT.

CHAP, encampment, routed, and kicked' into the Lake

IX.

'— ly^. <f of Aboukir.

Battle of At the hour appointed, the attack was made.

the Twen- _,.. ^.,_^, . .

iy-first. in the begnmnig oi it, the French conducted
themselves with admirable skill. It is certain
our army did not then expect them ; although,
for two preceding nights, the soldiers had been
ordered to lie down upon their arms, and be
ready at a moment's notice. They came silently
on, and in good order; which is the more
remarkable, as it was said the greater part of
them had been dosed with brandy. They had
crept with amazing perseverance, even upon
their hands and knees, through fear of alarming
our videttes. The French videttes were, how-
ever, observed to draw nearer and nearer to
ours ; until, at length, the ■ English sentinel
observed the French army close behind, coming
slowly on in a line. This man gave the alarm,
by firing his musket, and retreating with all
possible expedition. The French instantly and
rapidly charged up the hill, beginning a false
attack upon our left; and, carrying a redoubt by

(l) The literal translation of culbiiter, the word used by Menau is
the orders given for that attack ; as found in the pocket of General
Roise, whose head was taken off by a cannon-ball. See the original,
in Sir Jiobcrf. TVilsnu's Hist, of the Expedition.

EGYPT. 355

means of the bayonet, hoped thereby to throw chap.

our army into confusion, by drawing the atten-
tion from its right, where the main assault was
intended. This project was soon perceived by
our Commander-in-chief, and failed of its effect.
It was still dark. The firing ceased upon the
left, and was soon heard very warm upon
the right. To that point General Ahercromhie
directed all his attention ; although both armies
discharged their artillery without discerning- a
single object, except during the flashes of the
cannon ; when, as an officer belonging to the
reserve assured us, the French army was not
otherwise visible, although now so near, than
by the appearance of a long black line, disclosed
during those momentary coruscations. As
dawn appeared, the French were found to have
succeeded in turning our right wing : and a
party of their cavalry were actually seen
advancing in the rear of the twenty-eighth regi-
ment. The prudence and gallant conduct of
this regiment gave the first favourable tuni
to the conflict of the day. Cavalry in the rear
of infantry have generally the power to throw
it into disorder. It was at this critical moment,
decisive as to the fate of Egypt, that an adjutant
of the tiventy-eighth gave the word, *' Rear rank !
right about, face !'' This was readily obeyed ;
and the soldiers, with astonishing firmness and

356 EGYPT.

^?x^' P^'^^'^^i^ce of mind, sustained a severe attack

' , — ' in front and rear at the same time, without a

single man moving from his place'. At this
juncture, i\\Q forty -second regiment, coming up
to aid the huenty- eighth, were themselves over-
whelmed and broken by a body of the enemy's
cavalry. Still, although dispersed, they re-
sisted to a man ; and were seen so intermingled
with the enemy, that the flank companies of the
fortieth, stationed in the openings of the Ruin
upon the right, were afraid to fire, for fear of
destroying them. Menou had promised a Lonis
to every French soldier who should be con-
cerned in establishing a position in that building ;
and several attempts were made for the purpose.
Theffty-eighth had been stationed there in the
beginning of the action, with a part of the
twenty-third, and had already repulsed a column
of the enemy, in its attack upon this place ;
when, during the severe conflict sustained by
the tiventy- eighth in front, three columns forced ^
in behind the redoubt where that regiment was
stationed ; and while some of them remained to
carry on the attack upon its rear, the principal
part penetrated into the quadrangular area
formed by the Ruin. Here they were received

(l) Thejifly-eiglitli. is said to have been also in a similar situation.
IVilsnn's Hist, of the Exped. p. 32.

IX.

EGYPT. 357

b}^ \he fifty -eighth and twenty-third; and followed chap.
by a part of {he forty-second, who cut off their
retreat; so that a most desperate contest ensued.
Our men attacked them like wolves, with less
order than valour, displaying a degree of intre-
pidity nothing could resist. After expending
all their ammunition, they had recourse to stones
and to the but-ends of their muksets, transfixing
the Frenchmen with their bayonets against the
walls of the building, until they had covered the
sand with the blood and bodies of their enemies ;
where they remain heaped at this hour, a striking
monument of the tremendous glory of that day.
Not fewer than seven hundred Frenchmen were
bayonetted or shot among those Ruins.

By some unaccountable negligence, the prin-
cipal part of the artillery and ammunition had
not been brought to the station then occupied
by our army : hence originated a saying, that
the French had been defeated by an enemy
destitute of artillery. Certain it is, that both the
twenty-eighth and forty-second regiments, towards
the termination of the contest, were reduced
to the necessity of throwing stones*. General

(2) " The French on the right, during the want of ammunition among
the British, having also exhausted theirs, pelted stones from the ditch at the
tu'enty-eighlh ; who returned these unusual, yet not altogether harmless,
instruments of violence, as a serjcant of the twenty-eighth was killed by
one breaking through his forehead." Hist, of the Exped. p. 34.

VOL. III. Z

358 EGYPT.

CHAP. Sij. Kalph Ahercromhie, with a view, as it is related,
of rallying t\\Q forty-second, and restoring order
among their ranks, hastening towards the dread-
ful conflict in the Ruin upon the right, where the
action was hottest, was nearly surrounded by
a party of French cavalry. A dragoon made a
thrust at him; but Sir Ralph, receiving the
sabre between his breast and his left arm,
wrested the weapon from his antagonist. At
this instant, an English soldier, seeing another
riding towards the General to aim a blow at
him, and being without ball, thrust his ramrod
into his musket, and with it shot the dragoon.
Soon after, Sir Ralph was seen without his horse,
the animal having been shot under him ; when
Sir Sidney Smith coming up, supplied him with
that on which he was mounted. It was on this
occasion that Sir Ralph presented to Sir Sidney
the sabre he had wrested from the dragoon '.
Soon after, our venerable Commander received,
in the hour of conquest, the fatal wound in his
thigh, of which he afterwards expired.

Victory now declared itself for the English;
and it may be said to date from the moment
when Ahercromhie received his mortal wound.

(l) Sir Sidney has since placed this sabre upon the Monument of Sir
Ralph Abercromlie.

EGYPT. 359

Five i^re72c/i Generals were killed. Me?ioiis horse
was shot under him. It was reported, that he
wept when he beheld the fate of the day, and
exerted himself in vain endeavours to rally his
retreating army. Among the wounded on our
side, were Generals Cakes, Moore, Hope, and Sir
Sidney Smith. The loss sustained by the French
was not less than five thousand. Eleven hun-
dred of their dead, as before stated, were
buried by our own troops. After the action,
both armies maintained the positions they had
occupied before the battled

After the twenty-first of March, the affairs in
Egypt remained for a considerable time at a
stand. We joined the fleet, as before men-
tioned, upon the seventeenth of April. The
death of Sir Ralph Abercronibie had then thrown f^S' by
a gloom over every thing: and to its dissi- ^J'/j^.^^!.'
pation, neither the splendid talents nor the
acknowledged popularity of hi*s successor were
in any degree adequate. Although General,

(2) The French army upon this occasion consisted, according to their
own statement, of nine thousand seven hundred men, including fifteen
hundred cavalry, with forty-six pieces of cannon. The British force,
reduced by their losses in the actions of the eighth and thirteenth, &c.,
did not yield an effective strength of ten thousand men, including three
hundred cavalry. As the battle was fought by the right of the EJiglish
army only, half that number resisted the concentrated attack of all the
French iorca, — See Hint, of the Expedit. p. AZ.

z 2

crombie.

360 EGYPT.

<^^P' now Lord, Hutchinson received as members of
^ ■ y I ' his council all those persons v/liose advice or
assistance was esteemed by the late Com-
mander-in-chief, and implicitly adopted every
measure to which it had been his intention to
adhere, the regret of the army and navy on
the loss of their beloved veteran was expressed
only m munnur and discontent. A less enviable
situation could not have been sought, than that
Avliich General Huichinson was called upon to
Measures ^h. There is now, indeed, both satisfaction
Sk's'uc-''' ^^^^ pleasure in dwelling upon the difficulties
cesser of ^f jjjg arduous station; because the result has

Abcrcrum-

hie. proved, that no one could either have been

better qualified for the undertaking, or could
have devised a scheme more wisely for the
ultimate success of the enterprise, than the very
system he pursued, and accomplished, for the
final delivery of Egijpt. Profiting by the moral
of the old fable of " The four bulls and the lion,"
he directed the operations of the army suc-
cessively to the different stations held by the
dispersed forces of the enemy: subduing these,
one after another, instead of allowing them to
combine their strength, he was enabled to effect
what no other plan of carrying on the campaign
could possibly have brought to pass. It is true,
that matters did not proceed quite so rapidly
as before, but they advanced with much greater

EGYPT. 361

certainty. A mere spectator in the fleet would ^^^ ^'
have heard continual complaint of the tardiness ^. -v- -^
and torpor seeming- to prevail. Even the Frenchy
from their advanced posts conversing with our
oriicers, were known to indulge their sarcasm
at the dilatory nature of our operations, by
'txpressing pretended impatience for better
quarters; and by occasionally remarking, " Mes-
sieurs, vous vous hatez trhs lentement." The senti-
ments however of their own Generals might be
cited, if it were necessary, to prove that a
more soldier-like undertaking was never brought
to issue, nor one more characterized by sound
military science, than the plan for the expulsion
of the French, ^^ hich the successor oi Abercrombie
adopted.

To accomplish this desirable object, his first
effort was, to interrupt all communication be-
tween the garrison oi Alexandria and the rest
of Egypt. This was effected by destroying the
Canal of Alexandria ; and thereby not only pre-
venting a supply of fresh water, but also
causing the waters of the Lake of Abouhir to
fall into the antient bed of the Lake Mareotis.
We were present during this operation. The
Canal was cut through in two places : the tor-
rent, rushing vehemently down a steep of eight
feet, soon carried away the intervening moimd.

362 EGYPT.

CHAP, and produced an inundation extending to such
'■ ■ y i - ^ a prodigious distance over all the desert to
the east and south of Alexandria, that before, the
■middle oi May, the French, than whom no people
shew more alertness in converting even disaster
to some advantage, had a flotilla of gun-boats
upon this newly-created sea. •-

- About this time. Fort Julien, upon the Rosetta
branch of the Nile, was taken by the English
and Turks ; which was followed by the evacua-
tion of Rosetta. Rachmanie, an important fort,
was then attacked and carried : by the capture
of this place, all communication with Alexandria
was said to be interrupted. Immediately after
the capture of Rachmanie, the English army
began its march to Cairo : their ro^te was along
the banks of the Nile. They proceeded about
ten miles a day, suffering much from the heat,
as well as from the drenching dew and the
mosquitoes during the night. Berelos and
Damiata, upon the coast, were moreover aban-
doned by the French and Maltese, and taken
possession of by the Turks. The Maltese deserted
to us ; and the French, putting to sea, were
captured by our fleet.

Upon the twenty-second of April, Captain
Ciarhe conveyed us, in his cutter, to visit the

■^

■3

■5

■^

•53

m
n

<rf

1=^

r r

EGYPT. 363

English camp off Alexandria ; on which occasion chap.
we first landed in Egypt. We entered the ' — y—^
Lake of AhouUr by the Block-House, remaining
a short time to examine the landing-place of
our troops. The waters of this extensive lake
broke in from the sea in the year 1784. It
is everywhere shallow ; and so full of fishes,
that they leap into boats passing over the
lake ; a circumstance which greatly surprised
us. The opening of the sluices for the inunda-
tion of the old bed of Lake Mareotis had then,
drained it so low, that boats could barely pass.
We were often stranded, and every one of us
obliged to get into the water, for the purpose of
heaving our bark over the mud, upon which
she rested. We landed just below the English
camp, and beheld the extraordinary spectacle of
a desert rendered lively by the presence of a
British army ; admiring the singular concurrence
of circumstances which had occasioned an
exhibition of English soldiers and sailors, loung-
ing about, and seemingly at home, upon the
sands of Egypt. The shore w^as covered with
palm-trees in full bloom, making, at this season
of the year, a splendid appearance. Arabs and
Moors were seen mounted on dromedaries and
camels ; while the officers of our army appeared
cantering upon asses, to and from the little
shops established by Greeks in tents near the

364 EGYPT.

^fx^" ^^^^^^- ^^^ strong reflection of the sun's rays
from the sand is painful ; but the most refreshing
breezes, as constant as the sun, daily cool
this parched coast. We did not experience any
oppressive degree of heat, but walked about
two miles, from the shore to the camp, with
great pleasure. The sands were covered with
rare plants ; and these were all in flower.

The twelfth Dragoons, the regiment to which
our viit was principally intended, had received
orders to march for Rosetta the day following
that on which we arrived. We dined with them
in their Egyptian mess-room ; which consisted
of a square hole in the sand, covered with the
branches of palm-trees. In the evening we
rode with them throughout the camp, and
passed the outside of the lines. The whole
front of the British army was then drawn out,
and under arms, behind the breast-work. We
visited the twenty -eighth regiment, in which were
several officers of our acquaintance ; and also
the artillery upon the heights opposite to
Alexandria. Our videttes were then going out.
From this place we very distinctly saw the
French cavalry descending from the works before
Alexandria, to relieve their own videttes. They
were so near, that we could discern the riders,
and distinguish them when putting on their

EGYPT. 365

long white cloaks for the night. The French ^Y^^'
and Enslish videttes were stationed within an '- v ''
hundred paces of each other, and often con-
versed ; the French party coming frequently
over to ours, to ask for water. At that time,
the enemy occupied a lofty mound opposite to
our line, and a deep valley separated the two
armies. This valley reminded us of the neutral
territory in America where Major Andre was
taken, while endeavouring to effect his escape
from the enemies' works, which he had been so
hardy as to reconnoitre. As we returned to the
station occupied by the twelfth, we passed the
Ruin where the action was hottest during the
battle of the twenty-first : visiting its interior,
an old soldier, one of the heroes who had there
distinguished himself, pointed out the heaps of
sand raised over the bodies of those who fell
during the terrible conflict, and shewed us the
dark traces of their blood, yet remaining upon
the walls. Afterwards, we rode to examine the
sluices made through the Alexandrian Canal, and
beheld the torrent still rushing, with unabated
force, from the Lake oi Ahoukir. We had a
tent allotted to us for the night : it was double-
lined; yet so copious are the dews of Egypt,
after sun-set, that the water ran plentifully
down the tent pole. We slept upon the sand,
not without dread of scorpions, which are here

IX.

3(J6 EGYPT;

CHAP, very numerous, and had stung several of the
soldiers'. In the morning, we discovered that
our tent was the only one remaining upon this
station. The twelfth had marched before day-
light. During our return to the fleet, we had
greater difficulty than before in getting our boat
over Aboukir Lake.

Upon the twenty-fifth we again quitted the
Braakel; and sailed for the caravanserai at the
mouth of the Lake Maadie, determined to visit
RosETTA. As there was not sufficient depth of
water in the lake, we steered along the coast,
and landed at the village of Utku, to the west cf
an old castle upon the shore. The surf ran very
high, and is here generally dangerous. We
found the sand covered with human sculls and
other bones, which the sea and the sun had
whitened; the jackals having previously stripped
them of every particle of flesh. These were
described to us as the remains of those Turks
who fell in the dreadful slaughter, when Buona-
parte drove a whole army into the sea^.

We had to cross a perfect specimen of the

(1) One of the privates, who received a wound from a scorpion, los
the upper joint of his fore-finger.

(2) See a former note, in this Chapter, p. 336.

EGYPT. 30;

pathless y^nca7^ desert', iii our way to Vtku: chap.
the distance, however, did not exceed three v ,.,- /
miles. High mounds of sand, shifting with CuuTuV'^
every change of wind, surrounded us on all
sides, and concealed the view of other objects.
Yet even here w^e found a few rare plants, and
some of' these we collected^; but the heat was
extremely oppressive. We also observed in
this desert an interesting proof of the struggle
maintained by man against the forbidding nature
of the soil. Here and there appeared plantations
oi pumpkins; and a few jars and cylinders oi terra
cotta contained young palm-trees : these were
placed in holes deep in the sand ; a hollow space
surrounding each plant, to collect the copious
dew falling every night. The vegetation of
Egypt, even the redundant produce of the Delta,
is not owing solely to partial inundation from the
Niky or to artificial irrigation. When we hear
that rain is unknown to the inhabitants, it must
not be supposed the land is on that account
destitute of water. From all the observations we
could collect during our subsequent residence.

(3) This is a part of the desert described by Savary. {Letters on
Egypt, vol. I. />.47. ed. 2. Land. 1787.)

(4) Amonj these were a non-descript species of Lotus, of Orobanche,
of Salsoln,OieiranthuSy and of Poli/pogon. See List i>f Plants at the end
of thz'Third Section of these TraTcls ; also the Note in Chap, II. Vol. V.
of the 8vo. edition, where the new species are described.

368 EGYPT.

it seemed doubtful whether any other country-
has so regular a supply of moisture from
above. Even the sands of the desert partake
largely of " the dew of heaven," and, in a
certain degree, of " the fatness of the earth."
Hence it is that we meet with such frequent
allusion to the copious dew distilled upon
Oriental territories in the Sacred Writings. Bro-
therly love is compared by David' to "the dew
of Hermon.'' The goodness of Judah is described
as the deiv'^.'" " The remnant of Jacob shall be,"
it is said^ " in the midst of many people, as a
deiu from the Lord." And the blessings promised
by the son of Beeri* are to "be as the dew unto
Israeli In all this sandy district, palm-trees are
rery abundant, and their presence is a never-
failing indication of water below the surface :
wheresoever they are found, a brackish and
muddy pool may speedily be formed, by digging
a well near their roots. The natives are chiefly
occupied in the care of them; tying- up their
blossoms with bands formed of the foliage, to
prevent their being torn off, and scattered by
the winds. Our soldiers were at first ii2:norant
of the extent of the mischief they occasioned

(l) Pi. txxxiii. J. (2) Hos. vi. 4.

(3) Micah V. 7. (4) Hoi. xiv. 5.

JOURNEY TO ROSETTA. 369

by cutting clown these trees, each of which ^^^P-
proves as a httle patrimony to the native who * .. » *
is fortunate enough to be its owner. We had
ventured into these wilds without guides ; and
were therefore glad to perceive, as we advanced,
the traces of dromedaries' feet upon the sand,
crossing- the line we pursued. Following the
track marked out by these animals, we presently
arrived at the wretched solitary village of Utho,
near to the muddy shore of the lake of that
name, the entrance to which is called Maadie.
Here we procured asses for all our party, and, Joumeyto
setting out for Rosetta, began to recross the
qlesert, appearing like an ocean of sand, but
flatter and firmer, as to its surface, than before.
The Jrabs, uttering their harsh guttural language,
ran chattering by the side of our asses ; until
some of them calling out " Raschid!'' we per-
ceived its domes and turrets, apparently upon
the opposite side of an immense lake or sea,
that covered all the intervening space between
us and the city. Not havmg, at the time, any
doubt as to the certainty of its being water, and
seeing the tall minarets and buildings of RoseUa,
with all its groves of dates and sycamores, as
perfectly reflected by it as by a mirror, insomuch
tliat even the minutest detail of the architecture
and of the trees might have been thence deline-
ated, we applied to the Arabs to be informed in

370 EGYPT.

CHAP, -vvliat manner we were to pass the water. Our
interpreter, although a Greek, and therefore
likely to have been informed of such a phaeno-
menon, was as fully convinced as any of us that
we were drawing near to the water's edge, and
became indignant when the Arals maintained
that within an hour we should reach Rosetta, by
crossing tlie sands in the direct line we then
pursued, and that there was no water. " What,"
said he, giving way to his i.npatience, " do you
suppose me an ideot, to be persuaded contrary
to the evidence of my senses?" The Arabs,
smiling, soon pacified him, and completely
astonished the whole party, by desiring us to
look back at the desert we had already passed,
where we beheld a precisely similar appearance.
It was, in fact, the Mirage ' ; a prodigy to which

(l) An explanation of the phasnomeuon, called Mirage by the French,
was published at Cairo, in the Decade Egyptienne, vol. I. p. 39. by
Mange. It is too long for insertion here : but the author thus previously
describes the illusion.

" Le soir et le matin, I'aspect du terrain est tel qu'il doit ^tre ; et
eutre vous et les derniers villages qui s'offreut k voire vue, vous n'ap-
percevez que la terre ; raais d^s que la surface du sol est suffisamment
echaufF^e par la presence du soleil, et.jusqu'a ce que, vers le soir, ellc
commence k se refroidir, le terrain ne paralt plus avoir la mSme exten-
sion, et il paralt termini k une lieue environ par une inundation
g:^n^rale. Les villages qui sent places au-delk de cette distance parais-
sent comme des !Ies situt-es au milieu d'uu grand Lac, et dont on serait
s6par(! par une dtendue d'eau plus ou moins considerable. Sous chacun
des villages on voit son image renversee, telle qu'ou la verrait effec-

tivement s'il v avait en avant une surface d'eau r^fl^chissante."

JOURNEY TO ROSETTA. 371

every one of us were then strangers, although chap.
it afterwards became more famihar. Yet upon '-
no subsequent occasion did we ever .behold this
extraordinary illusion so marvellously displayed.
The view of it afforded us ideas of the horrible
despondency to which travellers must sometimes
be exposed, who, in traversing the interminable
desert, destitute of water, and perishing with
thirst, have sometimes this deceitful prospect
before their eyes*.

Before we arrived at Rosetta, seeino; a flasr
displayed upon the tower of Abu-mandiir, to the
right of our route, we supposed a part of our
troops might be there stationed, and therefore
climbed that mountain of sand, to visit them.
Here we were unexpectedly greeted with an
astonishing view of the Nile, the Delta, and the
numerous groves in all the neighbourhood of
RosETTA : it is the same so wretchedly pictured
in Sonnims Travels, and of which no idea can be

To th\%M&nge adds, that the large masses only are distinctly refiected ;
but when the l\Firage is very perfect, the most minute detail, whether
of trees or buildings, may be plainly perceived, trembling, as when
the inverted images of objects appear in water, the surface uhereof is
agitated by wind.

(2) "It is called C-J-uJl al serah hy th.t ArabiaTis ; and is alluded
to by Isaiah (xxxv. 7) in the following words: tDlVO lltyn n*m,
* And the Serab (the illusory lake of the Desert) shall become a real
lake.' " Edin,, Review for Feb. 1813. p. 139.

IX.

372 EGYPT.

CHAP, formed from his engraved representation. The
scene is of a very striking nature. The sudden
contrast it offers, opposed to the desert we had
traversed ; the display of abundance exhibited
in the fertihty of this African paradise ; with all
the circumstances of local reflection excited by
an extensive prospect of the Nile, and of the
plains of Egypt; render it one of the most inter-
esting sights in the world. Among the distant
objects, we beheld the English camp, stationed
about five miles up the river, upon its western
side ; and all the country as far as the fortress
of Rachmanie. The beautiful boats peculiar to
the Nile, with their large wide-spreading sails,
were passing up and down the river. Unable
to quit the spot, we dismissed our guides, and
remained for some time surveying the pleasing
scene. Afterwards, descending on foot, close
by the superb mosque of jibu-mandur, we con-
tinued our walk along the banks of the Nile^
through gardens richer than can be imagined,
beneath the shade of enormous overhansrino;
branches of sycamore and of Jig trees, amidst
bowers of roses, and through groves of date, of
citron, of lime, and of banana trees, to Rosetta.
As we entered the town, a party of Arabs, in
long blue dresses, welcomed our coming, placing
their hands upon their breasts, and saying,
*' Salaam-ulyk ! Bon Ingleses!'' while from the

ROSETTA. 3/3

camp, English officers, on horses, on camels, or
on foot, added to numerous boats filled with
troops upon the water, gave to the place a
character of gaiety never perhaps possessed by
it in any former age. AH authors mention the
beauty of its scenery, complaining only of the
monotony and dulness of the city. At the tirafe
we saw it, no such complaint could be made ;
for, with unrivalled natural beauty, Rosetta then
exhibited one of the liveliest and most varied
pictures of human life which it is possible to
behold. From the different people by whom it
was thronged, its streets resembled an immense
masquerade. There was hardly a nation in the
Mediterranean but might have been then said to
have had its representative in Rosetta; and the
motley appearance thus caused was further
diversified by the addition of English ladies from
the fleet and from the army, who, in long white
dresses, were riding about upon the asses of the
country.

Upon our arrival, we went to the quarters of
Sir Sidney Smith. He was then with our army
in the camp near Rachmanie; but we were
conducted to a house he had kindly prepared
for our reception, *' that the turbulence of war
might not," as he was pleased to express it,
" interfere with the arts of peace." This dwelling

VOL. IIT. 2 A

CHAP.

IX.

374 ROSETTA.

CHAP, -^vas the most delightful of any in Rosetta.
Placed in a prominent situation upon the quay,
it commanded a view of the Nile, and of the
Delta, in every direction'. We had therefore
only to return to the fleet for a few articles of
convenience, and for our books, and here to fix
our residence.

(l) Sir Sidney Smith, afterwards viewing this prospect from our
terrace, said, " We have often abused Savary for his extravagance and
amplification ; but the view here may at least reconcile us to his
account of Rosetta."

APPENDIX.

No. I.

PARTICULARS

or THE

REVOLUTION AT CONSTANTINOPLE

IN THE YEAR 1807;

WHICH ENOED IN

The deposition of the Emperor SELIM III.
Extracted from Mr. Walpole's Manuscript Journal.

*' The Nizam Jedit, or, as it may be literally
translated, the New System, had been insti-
tuted by Selim, for the purpose chiefly of aug-
menting the standing army, and disciplining
it according to European tactics. The new-
iciised troops in and near the capital amounted
to about 14,000 men; and were quartered in
the barracks of Scutari, and between Buyuc-
der^ and Pera: in Asia there were not less
than 60,000. They were maintained at great
expense, and new and extraordinary taxes
were levied to produce a fund for the support
2 A 2

3/G APPENDIX, N°I.

of them. The advanced price of tobacco, and
other articles of luxury or necessity; the
prohibition of the exportation of corn; the
jealousy of the Janissaries at the increase of
such a body of soldiers as the new troops,
who, as they imagined, were raised to check
and controul them; — these and other causes
excited complaint and discontent on every side.
In the year 1806, while I was at Constantinople,
the new troops and Janissaries met in frequent
battle in the vicinity of the capital. Victory
decided at length for the latter ; and the Porte
was obliged to raise the Colonel of the Janis-
saries to the post of Grand Vizier. Peace
however was not restored ; the Janissaries
still considered the troops of the Nizam Jedit
with suspicion and hatred, as the destined
means of effecting a reform in their own body.
The enemies of the Government did not hesitate
to point out the deposition of the Emperor,
as the only method by which the discontents
and murmurs of the people might be quieted.
They called him the 'Jirst InfideV {bir Giaour).
They said, that as he had been seven years
on the throne, and had not given an heir to it,
he ought, according to the laws and religion
of his country, to descend from it. The Sultan-
mother, the Messalina of Constantinople, with
her lover, YussufF Aga, attached herself to

APPENDIX, X^ I. 3/7

the new troops, as a body on whom they could
depend to support the Emperor, should the
Janissaries make any attempts to excite revolt.
Under pretext of dread of insurrection in the
north of Turkey, their numbers were increased ;
and an imminent attack from Russia furnished
another excuse for their augmentation.

*' The expedition of the English to the
Dardanelles suspended only for a short time
the animosity of the Janissaries, and the civil
disturbances in the capital; which were re-
newed with violence shortly after. On Wed-
nesday the 26th of May, IS07, the rebels went
in a body to the Hippodrome, and demanded of
the Mufti an order for the death of those whom
they marked out. The barracks of the new
troops were next destroyed. The massacre
then began ; and six of the members of the
Nizam Jedit were killed. On Thursday the rebels
went to the Seraglio, and insisted on the depo-
sition of Selim : and on Friday the new Sultan
appeared in public ; and, as he went in proces-
sion to prayers, was hailed with joy by the
insurgents, who retired peaceably home, after
liis return from the mosque.

" Mustapha the Fourth, the new Emperor,
thought it expedient, after he had been on

378 APPENDIX, N" I.

the throne a short time, to pubUsh an act of
amnesty in favour of the Janissaries. The
following short abstract will shew the nature
of it.

" It begins with some reflections on the
conduct of the members of the Nizam Jedit,
and on the unhappy delusion which had urged
Selim to promote and encourage their measures.
It adds, that by this, the officers and body of
the Janissaries were alarmed ; that the Oolemhy
and other respectable persons of the State,
were obliged to disavow their obedience to
their former sovereign; that they had united
in proclaiming Mustapha, the son of Abdul-
Hamid, their emperor ; that their conduct
had been directed by the spirit of the para-
graph of the Koran, which says : '' Those who
render us homage, render it to the
Highest; and the hand of the Lord is

IN ALL they do. ThE WORDS OF OUR

Prophet, which conduct us by the path

OE LIFE, have been REGARDED: If A CITY
ought TO BE DESTROYED, LET US GIVE AN
OPEN FIELD TO THE EXCESSES OF THE VIOLENT;
AND LET US EXTERMINATE IT ENTIRELY. ThIS
THREAT HAS BEEN EXECUTED ON THE BE-
TRAYERS OF THE FAITH AND THE EMPIRE;
THEY EXIST NO LONGER; AND THEY SHALL

APPENDIX, X°I. 379

HAVE MORE AND SEVERER PUNISHMENT IN
THE DAY OF THE RESURRECTION."

It appears, from the foregoing relation, that
Sclim was deposed on Thiu'sday the 27th of
May, IS06. In the Hamburgh Correspondent of
July the 24th following, (See General Evening
Post, August 4th, 1807,) a long account was
inserted of the Turkish Revolution, in which
the subsequent passage occurs :

" This occasioned so much distrust and discon-
tent, that the revolution would have broken out
sooner, if the Englishjleet had not made its appear-
ance. The party, in fact, were pretty sure of
their object ; and even in February last, in a
respectable German Journal, the following pas-
sage appeared, under the head of A Dialogue in
the Shades.

*' ' A Professor of Astronomy in London, in
a view of the Constellations, has observed an
insurrection among the Janissaries, and the death of
the Sultan.^

" In consequence of the dispositions after-
wards made, the dethronement of Selim seemed
naturally to follow, for" . . . &c.

It is observable, that the Professor of Astro-
nomy here mentioned, was no other than the

380 APPENDIX, N" r.

writev of the predictions in Moore's Almanack,
printed in 1806. Now, whoever recollects
" The Dialogue under Four Eyes "of the cele-
brated IVieland, in which Buonaparte, while in a
state of the greatest depression in the East, was
pointed out, under the very title of " First
Consul," as the future Saviour of France, will
have no great difficulty in conjecturing from
what quarter this Professor of Astronomy
received his illumination, nor from what source

the revolution had its origin.

S.H.

APPENDIX, N" JI 381

No. II.

EXTRAC T

FROM THE

LETTER OF CARDINAL LSIDORE

CONCEENING THE

CAPTURE OF CONSTANTINOPLE

A.D. MCCCCLII.

• • • • "AuDiTE haec, audite omnes gentes, auribus per-
cipite, qui habitatis orbem ! Audite haec omnia qui fidelem
orbis . partem colitis, ministri, pastores, et principes omnium
ecclesiarum Christi, universi quoque reges et principes
Christicolae, ac universus Domini populus cum religiosis
cunctis ! Audite ! et notum sit vobis, quod praecursor veri
Antichrist!, Turcorum princeps et dominus, servus autem tot
dominorum quot vicinorum, cujus nomen est Mahumet,
inimicus crucis Christi, haeres rei et nominis illius primi
pseudo-prophetae et latoris legis spurcissime Agarenorum,
tilius Sathanae omnium flagitiosissimus, qui furiis infectus, et
insania, sanguinem Christianorum sine intermissione sitit, nee
extingui valet ejus sitis post eorum innumeras csedes. Tanto-
que odio contra Christum et membra ejus movetur, ut
eradere nomen ejus de terra nitatur ; et inspecto aliquo
Christiano sibi obvianti, se inde existimet sordidatum, ut
oculos abluat et os, immundum se profitens prius. Hoc
igitur tarn terribile et horridum monstrum, exigentibus deme-
ntis Christianorum, justo Dei judicio, in cos saevire et crassari

382 APPENDIX, K° II.

permissus, civltatem imperialem novam Romam, olim felicis-
simam, nunc miserrimam, et omni calamitate oppressara
Constantinopolim diu obsessam coepit, expugnavit, spoliavit
omnibus bonis, et pene delevit. Quis autem (ut verbis utar
prophetae) dabit capiti meo aquana, et oculis meis fontem
lachrymarum, ut plorare valeam die ac nocte interfectos po-
puli illius, et scelestissima sacrilegia in ea captura perpetrata ?
Quis hujus horribilitatis memor, non obstupescat, non lethar-
gicus fiat, non prae dolore obmutescat? Nee turn cuncta
enormia explicabo, ne piae aures audire refugiant : sed ex
paucissin^s relatis cogitentur alia. Hie nefandus, nominibus
blasphemiae plenus, civitate recepta, post decapitationem
Imperatoris, cum omni sua progenie et nobilitate, plurimos
ferreis manicis et compcdibus alligatos, ac collis eorum funibus
cinctis, extra urbem deduxit nobifes, plebeios, monachos et
monachas, mares et fceminas, virtute et conditione praeclaros,
vituperabiliter detractos, niuitis injuriis refertas, ut meretri-
culas et in lupanari prostitutas trahebant ; tanta et talia
contra eos agebant, quanta de brutis animalibus, et qualia
sine rubore, fari minime quis valeat ? Adolescentulos utrius-
que sexus a parentibus segregabant, et divisim de eis
pretio negociabantur. Infantes coram genitoribus suis ut
agniculos mactabant. Matres filiis, et geniti genitricibus
privabantur. Germani a fratrlbus, uxores a viris, nurus a
socribus, lugentibus et ululantibus segregabantur. Disjunct!
consanguinei et amici, in diversis regionibus servi venditi
ducebantur. O quam amaras lachrymae, quanta suspiria,
quot clamosi singultus inter amicos et notos ! quae miserabiles
voces emittebantur inter tantas casdes, servitutes, expulsiones,
et contumelias ! Principes, barones, et domini, bubulcorum,
porcariorum, homuncionum efFecti sunt famuli. Intra decen-
nium pueros ad ritus suae perfidae sectae compellebant. Heu
quomodo obscuratum est aurum fulgidum sapientiae, per
tenebras ignorantise ! aurum dignitatis per ignobilitatem
servitutis ! Quomodo mutatus est color optimus Gracc^e

APPENDIX, X" TI. 383

eloquentiae, in barbariem Turchiae ! lapides sanctuarii, si qui

erant constantcs in fide, dispersi sunt in capite omnium viarum

jacentes prostrati. De caeteris taceamus : humana sunt.

Sed de injuriis, subsannationibus, contumeliis, opprobriis

scelestibus erga divina, qu?e lingua valeat explicare ? Quis

intellectus capere ? Quae aures patienter audire ? Ni fallor,

nunquam ita inhonoratus Dcus. Venerunt gentes gehennae •

deditae, in hsereditatem tuam, qux Israel est te videns per

fidem. Polluerunt templum sanctum tuum : Ecclesiam nobi-

lissimam Sanctee Sophiae, cum aliis. Imagines Domini nostri

Jesu Christi, et iNIatris ejus Virginis gloriosse, et sanctorum

ac sanctarum Dei, insignia vivificae crucis conspuentes,

confringentes, concultantes; sacrosancta evangelia, missalia,

et reliquos Eccleslse. Hbros dilacerantes, deturpantes, combu-

rentcs. Sacras vestes sacerdotum, reliquaque ornamenta

Ecclesiae scindentes, ad indumentum suum et ornatum su-

mentes, vel pro vili pretio conferentes ; vasr. Domini, ejus cultui

dedicata, in eis comedentes et bibentes, in reliquum conflata

ad prophanos usus transferebant. Posuerunt denique carnes

sanctorum tuorum, morticina servorum tuorum, reliquias

beatorum corporum, escas volatilibus cceii ; dispergentes hinc

inde carnes sanctorum tuorum quos occidebant bestiis terrae :

quia non erat qui sepeliret. Altaria suffoderunt, invocantes

noraen maledicti iMahuraeti, eum laudantes de victoria.

Omitto pra? pudore quod mingebant, stercorisabant, omnia

vituperabilia exercebant in templis, imaginibus, et reiiquiis

Sanctis. Sancta canibus dabant, margaritas sacramentorura

ante porcos projiciebant. Cum haec recolo, totus ex horrore

contremisco ; nee ulterius stylo exarare queo illorum piacula,

et fidei Christianse religionis dedecora et irrisiones injccta.

Monasteria tarn monachorum quam monialium invadenles,

omnia diripiebant, ejicientes illos de habitationibus suis :

xenodochia infinuorum destruebant. Etsi de multis et

magnis excidiis et exteiniinis civitatum, historiographi etiam

gentilium referant, fere nulla posset desolationl hujus

384 APPENDIX, N** II.

coaequai-i. Nullum incolam intra reliquerunt, non Graecum,
non Latinum, non Annenum, non Judaeum : urbem ipsain suis
civibus nudatam quasi desertam efFeccrunt. Eorum actus et
opera propriis oculis vidi, et cum reliquibus constantissimis
viris una, plura perpessus sum mala et pericula, licet de mani-
bus eorum me eripuerit Deus, ut Jonam de ventre ceti."

APPENDIX, N" III. 385

No. III.

CATALOGUE OF MANUSCRIPTS

UPON DAILT SALE

IN THE CITIES OF THE EAST.

PROCURED BY THE AUTHOR TirROtrGH THE FRIENDLY OFFICES OF A
DERVISHaN CONSTANTINOPLE.

Translated* and arranged by the Rev. George Cecil Renouard, M. A. Fellow

of Sidney College, Cambridge, now Chaplain to the British Factory at Smyna.

THEOLOGY. Paras

1. ^j}^\ Jj^ 50

The Resting- Places of Travellers. [See D'Herbelot, p. 5/6. b.]

2. ^_^l>JUl ^^j^ j^, (-->U^1 . . . 300
A Commentary on the Champions of Bedrj by Menini. [Pro-
bably a work on some of the traditions relating to the
victory gained at Bedr, over the unbelieving inhabitants

of Meccah.]

* The books referred to, as authorities, in forming this translation, are :

1. B'Herhetot's Bibliotheque Orientale. Paris, 1697. fol.

2. Encyklopoedische Ueberslcht der Wissenschaften des Orients, aus

sieben Arabischen, Persischen, und Tiirkischen Werken ubersetzt.
Leipzig, 1804. 2 vols. 8vo.
5. A pretty copious abridgment of " Haji Khalifeh (Catib Cheleb1)'s
Cashfu' z-zuiiun f i esma cutub we'l funQn" — a celebrated biblio-
graphical work ; of which a complete account may be found in the
preceding publication.

386 appp:ndix, X" hi.

Paras
3. ,^ui ^jjuw jJ^-wjiJ* i^r^J^ ^-^.'^'^ XxL:^ . 220
The Prayer for the Prosperity of the reigning Prince — The
Forty Traditions. — A Commentary on the First Chapter
of the Koran. [See D'Herbelot, Khothbah, p. 1000. a.
Encyklopcedische Uebersicht der Wissenschaften des
Orients, p. 634 — 63g, for the Forty Traditions.]

4. ^^\ ^\^\ uJjlai- ^J ... 45
A Treatise on Mystical Theology,- and Morals, in Turkish.

[Perhaps two diiferent Tracts. — For the doctrines of the
Sufis, or Mohammedan Recluses, see D'Herbelot, Sofi,
p. 816. a.]

5. i_Jj,^ */=•!?*■ J:'.^; ^u/*.;^ . . . 60
A Collection of Tracts on the Peculiarities of the Koran, and

on Mystical Theology.

O. 15-^^^ <-_ij«2j 35

A Treatise on Religious Seclusion; in Persian.

'7. (— Jj«i3J J:',^; 180

Tracts on the same subject as the last article.

8. t^j*aj i^Ji <i^U»- 70

The Jemaliyyah. [A treatise on the same subject 3 in Turkish.]

Q. 13O' s— Jj*i3J" \jiiJu^\ ^lo^a^ ... 11

The Improver of the Soul. [On the same subject; in Turkish.]

10. c-?Ui«]^ ^j^s. uJj^' JjL) . . . 260

Tracts on the same subject. — The Eye of Judges. [The latter,
probably, a treatise on the Duties of a Kazi, or Judge.]

] 1 . i<-^^ At^oJ^ f^yaii <uU jJal5 . . 45

The Guide of Kalenders. [A treatise on Religious Seclusion ;
in metre, and in the Persian language,]

APPENDIX, X" III. .187

Paras

12. t_fjJc'\ J^ A^^ J^.^ ^Uj . . 180
An Explanation of " the Path otDevotees/' by Sumbul Efendi.

1 3 . Jk^^ J**^ <-J»-^' 35

On Seclusion from the World, by Jafer Sadik. [Jafer the Just
was the sixth Imam, and is held in high veneration by
all Mussel mans. Vid. D'Herh. SSg. a.]

14. ^rJ^J ^— -^^ S^-o (-Jj<A» Jjt~) . . 1-iO

Tracts on Mystical Divinity : The Key of Secrets, &c.

15. ^^Ji i_J^ Jt'.^J (^J*^ ul?:'.'^ • • ^ ^^
The Poems of Hidayi, and Tracts on a Spiritual Life ; in

Turkish.

16. i^yOJ ^Jj ^jJc*a-1 J^jJJ . . . 120
The Poems of Ahmedi, on Spiritual subjects ; in Turkish.

] 7' <— Jj«i3J (*J^^^ \^? ^"^

A Treatise on the same subject, in metre, and in Turkish,

18. cs^J^\ ^J^\ 'A^ 900

The High Road of Fakirs, by Enkurevi.

19. iS\j ^p> ^.^\ ,J^^^ ' . • ^-if^
The Best of Traditions, by Okchi-zadeh. [The Hadis are

the Sayings of Mahomet, traditionally preserved among
his Followers, and venerated almost as much as the
Koran itself. See D'Herb, Hadith, p. 41 6. a. Also
called the Arbain of Okchi-zadeh, Vid. D'Herb. Ocgi,
p. 684. a.]

20. The same work 220

21. Ditto 3O0

22. Ditto ;00

388 APPENDIX, N" HI.

Paras

23. ^:\j^ cI^jW ^' . ... 70
A Translation of the Sacred Traditions.

24. jjliul^ ^U ciXc ^^ .... 340
The Commentary of Ibni Melee on " The Rise," [i. e. The

Rise of the Prophetic Luminaries from the pure sky of
the history of the elect Being (Mahomet). The com-
plete Title is thus given by Hajt Khalifah, j\^^\ ^ XiL^
ibyk^l JjJ>-% J^*^ ^ kj^^ 'The Au-
thor's name is. The Imam Raziu'ddin Hasan ibn Mu-
hammed as-saghani. — It is a very celebrated Treatise on
the Tradition ; establishing the number of those that are
genuine at 2246. The Commentator is also a celebrated
Author. His name at length is Adbu'l latif, ibn Abdu'l-
azir. His work is entitled _ Ji J j\jbj% ^J^

[I have given a more detailed account of these books j
as D'Herbelot (p. 560. b.) is not only very concise, but
also incorrect, in what he says respecting them,]

25. cU»jJt *5^ ^ ^JUi^ c_>bl . . . 140
The Institution of Baihaki in the Science of Tradition.

26. Jj j\j:1>\ :ik^ ...... 45

A Present for the Pious, in Turkish. [An historical work dn

the Traditions. DHerl. p. 89O. a,]

27. ^^;JJLi-U J\y\ ...... 380

The Lights of Lovers, [Probably a Collection of the Sacred

Traditions ; translated into Turkish, by Ahmed, brother
of Mohammed ibn Salih, the author of the original work,
entitled Magharibu z-zaman. H. KH.]

28. i^jli ^^,jJ);J^ ^ij\ '-^'.'■J^ . • 70
The Forty Traditions, by Sadru'ddin Fetevi,

APPENDIX, N. HI. 389

Paras

29. j:^ ^i( ^ ^jL 140

A Commentaiy on the Nokhbah of Ibn Hajar. [See D'Herl.
674. a. Haji Khalifeh gives the title at full length, thusj
jj^l Jjbl ^lk«2^ i^^s ^ijl ^xkull whence it ap-
pears that D'Herbelot has made a mistake in translating
the title, " Ce qu'il y a de meilleur dans la pauvret4"
instead of Ce qu'il y a de meilleur dans la reflexion. —
Probably his copy had JiiJl. This led him into greater
error, viz. the notion that Poverty is the exclusive subject
of the Hadis which occur in this work 5 while it is, in fact,
a general treatise on the traditions relative to the
Prophet.]

30. ft^j^j iiUckuJ^ Ic *^lj liOw
Shaikh Kasim, on the Nokhbah of Ibn Hajar, &c. [i. e.

Shaikh Kasim ibn Ko'tlubogha (Uj^AlaJj) of the Hanifi
sect. D'Herh. 262. a. Hajl Khalifeh.]

31. ^J fyrt^3 U^. j^^^ .... 220
A Commentary on the 36th Chapter of the Koran, &c. in

Turkish.

32. t^U- iU jJ-ujlv 140

The Commentary of Mulla Jami [on the Koran.]

33. ^\Ji>\ jJ/»s- ^// j^^^ ... 45
A Commentary, in Turkish, from the 41st Chap, forwards.

34. ajA ^\ ^js Sjy^ <-^^^ j^l/^^^' • • ^^^
A Commentary from the 38th Chap, to the end of the Koran,

by Abii'1-leis.

35. ^Ui ^15 ^^JuuiJ ....... 140

A Commentary on the 78th Chap, of the Koran, by Kazi.

VOL. III. 2 B

390 APPENDIX, N" III.

Paras.

36. jJ^."*AJ' ^Ji (CjlJj-SJ 140

Divine Meditations, in Turkish. A Commentary, [Perhaps

two distinct works.]

37. ^^J^^ ^jJA.*.^^^ Hjy^ jSmJu' ^Jj . . 110

A Commentary, in Turkish, from the 47th Chap, of the Koran,
forwards.

38. J^l Jis- JU^ ^\ j^Mxi .... 30
The Corameniary of Ibni Kemal, vol. I.

39. 4-^ ^\ *i*j ^}^\ ^ v^J^^^ j^^^ ' 260

A Commentary on the Koran, from the beginning of the 6th
to the 28th Chapter, by Baizavi {Beidhawi).

40. IjuJ^ ^\ J3j%l\ ^ sd\j i^J^ . . 380
A Commentary from the 25th to the 34th Chap, of the Koran^

by Shaikh- Zadeh.

41. ^IkuuJ ^\s% ^Ju>^

The Sun in. the Firmament, by Bastami. [A Treatise on
the Mystical Powers of the Arabic Letters. See D'Herb.
193. a. 775. a.]

42. Ditto * . . 500

43. ^ ^■^J u)/ u^^J*- .... 90
ATransIationof "The PecuUar Properties of the Koran :" [The

Khawassj i.e. the PecuHar and Cabalistical Properties of
the Letters used in the Korau. Encyklopaedische Ueber-
sicht, p. 79. 615.]

44. ^J yoly- 110

A Work on the same subject, in Turkish.

45. ^j£. ^J ^Je>\^ ...... 440

A Work on the same subject, in Arabic.

APPENDIX, N"' III» 391

Paruq

46. ^jS. A^'lj ^^1y- 260

The Cabalistical Properties of the Letters which occur in the
First Chapter of the Koran; in Arabic.

47. ^/y ^J\^ ^a^^ 60

A Collection of Tracts on the same subject ; in Turkish.

48. ^_5<'^^^j■ fj^ji o-=l>>- • • • • • • ^Go

A Treatise upon the same subject \ by Temimi.

49. [,^\j:^] iJ\f>- }^'i\ (j^s . . . 260
Luminaries lighted up — on the same subject, [See D'Herh.

223. b.]

50. Ditto 300

51. [^^yuujsnJl] ^s^\ \aJ\ ^jJL j j*jU \j^\ 180
The Revival of the Sciences, and a Commentary on " the

Excellent Names." [Two different works. Of the first,
the whole title is, jjJl *jLi iU.->.^ — It is the most
celebrated work of Alghazali (D'HerL Gazali, p. 362. b.)
of which Haji Khalifah has given a comprehensive
account. There are no less than twenty different works
bearing the title of the second, enumerated in the Kcshfu
z-zunun.']

52. ^ji,^^\ ^If^ 70

The High Road of the Devout.

53. tJij j^ []^\y>] ^y> .... 260
The Sermons of Khizr-zadeh,

54. J5> ^jWI W 60

The Alchemy of Habit, by Ghazali. The title should have been

written 5 jUJU^ The Alchemy of Felicity.— It is a
'2 B 2 ^^'^"^^

)92 APPENDIX, N" III,

Pnras

work on Moral and Religious subjects, in Persian, by the
celebrated Ghazali. There are several translations of it
in Turkish. — It is omitted in the catalogue of Gha-
zali's works given by D' Herbelot. It seems to be attri-
buted by him to Ibnu'l Arabi, p. 121. b. See Haji Kha-
lifeh.]

55. [iis:^"] j:^^ ^^ ybs:\l\ JuuU . . 180
The Key of Al Jefr, by Ibn Talahah. [Probably the work
entitled «_^iOlfyl|^ «-^W\ll ji^^ — by Kemalu'ddin
Mohammed, Ibn Talahah A'n-nasibi. The Ilmu'ljefr
wa Ijami is the Art of predicting Future Events by a
Cabalistical Combination of the Arabic Letters supposed
to have been exclusively possessed by Ali and his descen-
dants. See D'Herl. 366. b, 1021. a. Encyklopaed.
Uebersicht, 618. and Haji Khalifeh.]

5Q. ^\ :,^\ ^^U^ J^.^uU . . . 140
The Object of Pilgrims, by the Shaikh Ilahi.

57. ^J^jj 340

An Elucidation. [There are several works which have this
title. See D'Herb. 853. a.]

58. (juu^ f^V^y 440

An Illustration — Elegant. [Probably the same work.]

^9- ^^J-J LS^J^ J^J 70

The three works of Berkeli, together. [Probably the works
mentioned by D'Herb. (v. Barcali, p. 185. a.) viz.

60. The same book. ...... 80

APPENDIX, N' III. 393

Paris

61. JjL, j ijlJl Jjoc* 110

" The Adjuster of Prayer," — and other Tracts. [The first
is a treatise on Prayer, by Mola Muhammed ibn Par Ali,
commonly called Berkeli. Haji Khalifeh.]

62. juU*ll jj^ 70

Strings of Pearls [a treatise on the Fundamental Principles of
the Mohammedan Religion. See D'Herb. 41. a.]

63. jjIjU «u>y 25

A Translation of the Fundamental Principles.

64. Ji\jdJ^ ^Ijji^ L5^V 'V.^ • . . 180
Haidaranis Commentary on the Akayid of Jelalu'ddin ; [pro-
bably a Commentary on the Work of Jelalu'ddin Mo-
hammed ibn Asad E's-sadiki E'ddawani, finished A. H.
915. which is itself a Commentary on the Aka'id of
Azadu'ddin. See Haji Khalifah.]

Q5. jj.Ui j.y, ^ j*Uc .... 260

Isam on the Comment on the Akayid.

QQ. csj^^ 90

\i. e. Isamu'ddin Ibrahim ibn Muhammed al IsferayinVd.
A. H. 945. This work is a body of Scholia on the Akaid
of Nasafi. H. KH.]

Truth minutely investigated, and the Bayiyyah. [The former
is probably a work on the Traditions ; (see Stewart's Ca-
talogue of Tippoo Sultan's Library, p. l62. N' xxviii.)
The latter probably a poem, in the rhymes of which the
letter Ba constantly recurs.]

68. Ditto 130

394 APPENDIX, N' III.

Paras

69* '-rV.^-=- ^y*'^ J '^j^^ dJii\jL . . 140

The Evidences of the Prophetic Mission, and a Curious Miscel-
lany. [The former is probably a Persian work, by Mola
NQru'ddin ibn Ahn'rr.hman, ibn Ahmed, Al Jami, who
died A. H. 388. (i. e. the celebrated Poet, who was also
a great Theologian.) Haji Khalilah.]

70. J^\ &Az L^,jJ:> ^U .... 45
The Names of the Holy Prophet— May the Peace of God be

upon him !

71. f^\ ^5 S\jil\ ^5^ .... . 180
The Lamp of the Heart, a treatise on Scholastic Theology.

72. [^yuuIU] ^^\ iUj^^ 'Sj^ . . 780
A View of the Proofs, by Nasafi. [A treatise on Scholastic

Theology, in a thick volume (says Hajl Khalifah), by
Abu'l Moayyen Maimiin, ibn Mohammed E'nnasafij
who died A. H. 580.]

73. ci^j^^l '^^^l;^ 140

A Treatise on the Miraculous Ascent of Mohammed into

Heaven, by Alajuii.

74. j^UjJ [«J.,^:sU<] ci--s:\Ju? ... 70
An Examination of the Faith.

75. jUjJ ci-^is^ 140

The same work.

76. ^1^\ 1^^^ ^\j jib\y>^ ^jj ... 90
A Treatise on Jewels, i.e. the Mohammedan Religion.

77' ^J <^j^ 80

A Sermcn in Turkish.

APPENDIX, N" III. 395

Paras

78. JIj^ 140

[The Marginal Notes of Mola Ahmed Ibn Musa, surnamed
Al-Khiyali, on the Commentary on the Akaid of NasafI,
by Mola Ramazan ibn Mohammed. It is much esteemed,
and was dedicated to the Vezir Mahmud Pasha, which
displeased Sultan Mohammed II, It was finished A.H.
862. A. D. 1408. H.KH.]

79. JU^l J^ jlO^Jl j:^. .... 300

The Ocean of Thoughts, on Al Khiyali. [Scholia on the pre-
ceding work. H. KH.]

80. ^jU ^j>.jL [uvl^lllf:!] jJ^l^l . . 220
A Commentary on the Eyyuha'l weled, by Khadimi. [An

admonitory tract on Religious Retirement, by Alghazali.
H KH. See D'Herb. 362. b. 631. a.]

81. jjby cLj\xijis y .... go

A Translation of " the Paths," by Borhanu'ddln. [Perhaps
a treatise on Mystical Divinity.]

82. ^_j^c j<4^ JuJa^ 180

A Collection of Prayers for the Prosperity of the Empire.

83. i^jiy*- ^^ d^J^j 260

On the Unity 5 by Hurutl. [Probably a Tract on the Unity
of God.]

84. c^}^ '^ fS:'^^ ^^ CLiJ^j . . 140
On the same subject as the preceding, by the Shaikh Abdu'r-

rahim.

85. JSS\j^. <u^y

A Translation of " the Ocean of Scholastic Divinity." [Per-
haps the work of the celebrated Nasaf i, tcho died A. H.

508

396 APPENDIX, N" III.

Paras

508. H. KH. — ^This date is nearer to the truth than the
former, 580, as the year of his death was A. H. 507>
according to Haji Khalifah's Chronological Tables.]

86. J^^\ ;^^\ ^\ CLj\j^,^ ... 26

Divine Counsels, by the Shaikh Akbar. [Perhaps this book
belongs to the class of Metaphysics.]

8;. ,j:>^U\ ^Unl* J tjJ^*^^ -'^ • • 44
The Refuge of the Pious, and the Stronghold of the Righteous.

88. j^\ ;^^JJLl\ JVji ^J^^\ Is^JuaJ . 35
Advice to Walkers in the Paths of Religion, by Ghazali Shaikh

Akbar. [See Stewart's Catalogue of Tippoo Sultan's
library, N° xii. Theology.]

89. ^^\ ^\ j\ij\ 260

" The Useful Things" of Ibnu'l Arabi. [Probably a com-
mentary or abridgement of some of Ibnu'l Arabi's works.
See D'Herb. 121. a.]

90. Jjt i_i^ ^j^Xi^-* 220

The first half of theMohammediyyah. [A large commentary on

theKoran,by AlMus'nefik. See D' Herd. 627. h. H.KH.]

91. ijij^yi lJ^ ijij <4-y- .... 190

Khwajah-zadeh, on " The Path." [Perhaps a commentary
on the celebrated work by Pir ali Berkeli, entitled
X»cUJs^t iju ]s See N" hx. p. 392.]

92. ^j:i\j^\ J^ JU' y . . . . 300

Karah Kemal on " the Stations." [A work on Scholastic
Theology, by Azadu'ddin Abdu'rrahman, ibn Ahmed,
Alkazi, who died A. H. 705. Karah Kemal is the
surname of Mola Ismail. H. KH. See Stewart's Cata-
logue, N° xxi. Philosophy.]

APPENDIX, N« III. 397

Paras

93. uji5l^l ^ ^ iJ\ji^^ . . . 140
Kiiwajah-zadeh on a Commentary on the same work.

[Khwajah-zadeh is the surname of the Mola Mus'tafa,
ibn Yusuf. H. KH.]

94. ^Ik^i ^ Ju^ 140

ACommentaryon the "Ascending Thoughts" [J^'i] «Jlii<i)
(itself a commentary on a theological work) by the Seyyid
Al Jorjani. H.KH. See D'Herb. 581. a.

95. j^yuU Xa\Lc 440

The Text of the Makasid. [Probably the Makasidu'l Hasa-

niyyah ; a work in much esteem, containing the principal
Traditions (Hadis), arranged alphabetically by AI Sa-
khawi. H. KH. See D'Herb. 739. b.]

96. ^t'^AJ^ 4^;:^* <--^^J'l 110

An Exposition of the Doctrine of Abii Hanifah.

97. [^h.' Jl^ o^\ 440

The Exalted Morals j [by Ibnu'l Khtnnabl. See D'Herb. 45. b.]

98. [^.Ic] JL: jUI 500

The same book.

99- Jr- jy ^^^

The Forty Questions. [Perhaps relating to the Arbain, or
Forty Authentic Traditions.]

100. tjyjy '<uU Uj 45

A Treatise on Pra}'er, by Abu's-suud.

101. Ditto 70

102. JjxJIjjI ^<ulilct> J X<ljJJ fj\j>.\ . . 70
An Account of the Resurrection, and the preceding book.

398 APPENDIX, K" HI.

Paras

103. aLc! j»U\ e^JuTj «u^ .... 120
A Translation of the Testament of the Great Imam, [f. e. Abu
Hanifah.]

i04. uJj^ J CjIj^I 50

Metaphysics and Mystical Divinity.

105. (^fcjU- iLi^ ^jJL 180

A Commentary on the Bismillah, by Khadimi.

1 06. aJJuLuu* ]s\ja JjLu-^ 110

Questions on "' The Strait Path ;" [i. e. Islam, or the Moham-
medan Faith.]

107. \ji}J>x^ ^J ^-^-^^ y} «UJJU . . 70
An Essay on Prayer by Abu'1-Leis, translated into Turkish

by Manayi*. [The author's remaining names are, Nasr
ibn Mohammed, As-samarkandi, Al Hanifi. (See
D'Herl. Samarcandi, 753. a.) H. KH.]

108. j:jliusal\ lAS.. uJ3S goo

The Quintessence of Truths. [Probably the work entitled

by Abul Kasim Oraadu'ddin Ahmed, Al Farabi, who
died A. H. 607. H. KH.]

109. 0^«- JjUiJ ^'^^J 70

Translation of " the Merits of a Holy War,"

110. ^\ ^^b ^jJ^ .^\ JjJs . . 300

The Morning Journeys. A Commentary on " the Suppliant
at the Asylum." [^Lo*ll JS,^\ ^ ^\ ^\^

A\A\* The Suppliant at theAsylum of Mercy instructed
in Morning and Evening Adorations, by Jelalu'ddin
Abdu'rrahraan, ibn Abi Bekr As-suyuti, who died 9II.]

* . Perhaps manayi is not a proper name ; and signifies that the commentary
gives merely a general, not a verbal, translation of the original work.

APPENDIX, N° JII. 399

Paras

111. ^ jUJ\ j\j . . ... 110

The Viaticum of the Faithful, in Turkish.

112. u^y^\ J>j^ ... ..... 300

The Purifier of Souls.

113. Jji }j\ culL^ go

The Paths ot the Righteous, in Turkish.

114. ^^l^^ ^ ^^^ '^'^^^^ ^ ij^\:>. no

Scholia on Al Jami, by Kechi Mohammed Efendi. [Pro-
bably the Commentary of Jami is meant.]

115. ^^\L ^jjjsj^ [^'>^] ^J^ ZJ^ L5^^ 180
Fasi's Comment on the Great Section, and the Text of
Shazili. [D'Herl. 765. a.]

1 l6. Lib L-^]; JL^y JJ^*^" .... 700
The Truth of Divine Grace, by Raghib Pasha [Grand Vizir.
See De Tott.']

117. 'V^^J ''':^^^^ cA?^ eS^* [*'y^] ^'*:!^J

[jJuj.] <Ujc,^ . 140

The Precepts of Ali Kush — A Hanifi* Treatise, and Scholia
on it.

118. ^yM,x^j 'f^^^ ^"^y .... 70

A Translation of *^ the Abrogator and the Abrogated 3"
[a work either on the Spurious Traditions, or on the
contradictory Dogmas of the Kuran. Haji Khalifah
mentions several authors who have written on this subject,
Mekki, Abu Jafar An-nahhas, Abu Daud As-sijistani,
AbQ Obaid Kasim, Abu Said At-tamimnJ, Jelalu'ddin
As-suyuti d. A. H.QU, Abu'l Kasim ibn Selamah, &c.]

400 APPENDIX, N' 111.

Paras

119. ijjh ^ [^^j^] ^ ^^J • • l^o<^

A Persian Translation ot" Uie Commentary on the Delayil.
[Perhaps the ^^^1 ^J^ ij^\ Jj ^ CL^\jJ^] Jj^J
by Abu Abdu'ilah Mohammed, Al JuzulL]

120. ^_fXK3\ Jjb Jj}j a..4^ . . .140
Translation of the Delayil, by Daiid Efendi.

121. /♦jfl^ t^j^b. Ja>-y ,j^ ... 70

The Garden of the Unity, by the late Shahidi.

122. J^\ J\js^ 140

The Balance of Truth. [A Polemical Tract, by Katib

Chelebi.]

123. t/Joii J^ ^.j^ 735

The Tejvid, by Shaban Efendi. [Te>id is the Art of de-
claiming the Kuran. Encykl. Uebersicht, 574.']

124. ^jj jj^ jj^ 35

The Great Tejvid, in Turkish.

Jurisprudence,

125. j^lSj [cJ-tf'j i^i^li cXtfjUi «U.«^ . 50
A Collection of Law Tracts.

126. ciJliJc*^ ciLfl Afij^ij^ .... 70

Tracts on the same subject.

127. ii'i'\) *-ri^^ <^^ 90

The Form of Summons, by Hajib Zadeh.

128. Ditto 180

APPENDIX, N» III. 401

Paras

129. ^ c?J^^ CLij^=^ . . . . 110
The same, by Hazret Efendi.

130. i:>jJ\ cXrf» 140

The Adrianople Summons.

131. \^\J^\ ^U- 260

The Collector of Fetvas, [i. e. Juridical Decisions. D'Herh.
341. b.]

132. y><j \yi &S.y^£S^ 70

A Collection of Fetvas, &c.

133. ^X}^\ i^\ ^j^ u/\.Ui . . . . 110
The Fetvas of Faizu'llah Efendi,

134. Ditto 140

135. ^^\ J^ J\p^ 700

The Fetvas of Aii Efendi.

136. ^^\ J^ (^J^ ,90

[Probably the same work as the foregoing.]

The Fetva of Muayyed-zadeh.

138. ^)\ JJui i^^jUi 220

The Fetvas of Abdu'rrahim,

139. J^l C^ ^)\ ^ J^ ... 300
The Fetva of Abdu'rrahim— One third— First, [ProbaWy

this book is the first volume of a Collection of Decrees
on Cases relative to the Division of Property, to which
the term " one third" may refer.]

402 APPENDIX, N" III.

Para»

140. ^.jJ' ^j^ ....... 140

Muhayyu'ddln. [Probably a Collection of Fetvas. See
D'Herl.Q\7. b.]

141. <)y^|^-' 3^

The Sirajiyyah — [see below.]

142. ^^^^j^ [l/=.-'.1/] t/^l/ '^'♦'rt/ • • ^^
A Translation of the Sirajiyyah. [A celebrated Treatise on

the Law of Inheritance, published together with an
English Version, by Sir William Jones^

143. ijlj c-^Uw <tJ^[^ C'4'.!/ ^"^J ' 22^
A Translation of the same work, by Hajib-zadeh.

144. tjrjow ^jAi\j ^. . go

A Tract on the same subject, by the Sayyid. [Probably the
Commentary on the Sirajiyyah by All JurjanI, who is
particularly distinguished by the title of Sayyid.]

145. Ditto 110

A Metrical Version of the Treatise on the Law of Inheritances,
by Tursun-zadeh. [Ferayiz may have two senses. See
D'Herb. 344. b.]

147. u^y^^ t^ Cl^K^l JU . . . 260
The Resolution of difficult Cases in the Law of Inheritances.

148. ij^}ji ^'^.j^ .45

The Code of the Law of Inheritances.

149. Ditto 220

APPENDIX, N°II1. 403

r.ivas

150. u^)J ^'^J • -^5

A Translation of the Law of Inheritance.

151. ^^jL ^^j l^^j] c^-'^i ^j^ . . 260
The Spirit of Commentaries. [A Commen{ary on the same

law.]

152. Jl)A=- ^U ^,yl5 180

A Tract on the Feudal Law of the Turks.

153. ^Uj\ ^5*^ ^^15 180

The Regulations of the Ajem-Oghlans.

154. ^Ul! ^ -fuU^ U^J 180

A Translation of "The Advantages derived from Knowledge
of the Law," [Al Fik-h comprehends nil pr.ictical
duties, whether social or religious. Encykl. Uebersicht,
671. D' Herb. 343. b.]

155. *--^,r^ «*A* '^'^y ^^

A Translation of " The Exalted Law."

150. t_fjuu« lojj^ j-^sjJ^^ .... 110
An Abridgement of the Monteha, by the Sayyid. [Probably
Jorjani's Commentary on the ^,*Ju.^I -olscujl

Jj^l J J^^Jl jjx ^ J^V^ Jl^l, by Ibnu'I-
Hajib.]

157. ^5-^l^/Jl ^j:^^ kJ^ J^"^ '^J • 1^^^
A Translation" of the Multeka, by Ali'I-Khiiiri of Kutahyeh
(Cotyaeum). [The best account of the Multeka is
given in the "Tableau de I'Empire Ottoman by Mu-
radgea d'Ohsson," I. 23. 8vo. ed. and Hammer's Osma-
aischen Reichs Staatsverfassung, I. 10. See also DePey-
sonnel's Remarks, on De Tott, (p. 46, Eng. Trans.) and
DHerl. (520. b. dJouJ ' ^J> ^s ^^1 ^^jiiLo

is the complete title. Al Haj Ali Al Halebi, a scholar
of the author's, is the Commentator mentioned by
Peysonnel: he died A.H. 967.]

404 APPENDIX, N" III.

Paras

158. \julo The same 140

Ablution — Sale and Purchase. — An introduction to a correct
knowledge of the ditferent branches of the Law. [The
first is probably a tract on the ablutions prescribed by the
Mohammedan religion. The last a religious or legal
work, by Abu'l Barakat al Anbari, who died A. H. syy-"]

160. ^X)^\ iijA^ \jL J j_Ju .... 90
Sale and Purchase, by Hamzah Efendi.

161. (•j^iJ^ ^,J^^ J"^^ *^y • • • 1^*0
A Metrical Ver-ion of the Sadru'sh-sheriah, [See D'Herb.

703.a. H. KH. For an account of the Hidayah, see
Hammer's O. R. Staatsverfassung, I. 7']

162. |»UI ^jJL 120

The Law of Islam.

163. i^jlrsuJi ^^jjuuj 320

An Exposition of Prohibited Things.

1^4. <Uajj JjIu*^ ^J> . ... 110

Questions relative to Debts, in Turkish. [Perhaps this belongs
to the former class, in which case the title would be
translated, " Religious Questions."]

165. JL)^\ ^ CM< ^\ . ' . . , 580
Ibn Melic, on " the Pharos." [A celebrated work of Nasafi ;

see D'Herb. 576.}

166. c:->Ij>*Jw 45

Tracts on the Seven Fundamental Principles by which the

Division of Inheritances is regulated. [See Encykl.
Uebers. b.678.]

APPENDIX, N" III* 405

Paras

167. jji }j^ j-^u ...:.. 35

The Collector of Secrets, in Turkish, [Probably the Trans-
lation of a celebrated Commentary on the Menar, by
Kowamu'ddin ibn Mohammed. See H. KH.]

168. J^ y A^\ 300

Comparisons and Similitudes, Under this title Haji Khalifeh
mentions two celebrated works on Juridical subjects,
and one on Grammar,]

169. ^\ ^yc\ 35

The Principles of Jurisprudence.

170. ^\L>-"i\ ^ ^j^ uU:^^ L5f^ * ^^^
Merkebchi Mohammed Chelebl on Jurisprudence.

171. Ditto 120

172. c^l (♦IX^lil JUA^ .... 300

Summary of the Great Decisions.

173. ^\ hy 140

[Probably a work on the Lawfulness of smoking Tobacco,
by All ibn Mohammed Al MalikI, entitled ^JoJ^ lAs.

^^\ ^^ Jiwl^ ^-r^. ^^ ^r* «^^ A com-
plete proof of the Lawfulness of Smoking, provided it
be not continued till the understanding is obscured.
H.KH.]

174. Ditto 180

175. Ditto 220

VOL. III. 2 c

406 APPENDIX, N* III.

Ethics, Metaphysics, & Logic.

Paris

176. oUuo <*^J^j (Jis\j ^\io^\ . . . 110
The Principles of Logic } and the Rule for determining the

Correctness of Demonstrations.

177. S^ 340

The Extended. [A Commentary on the Talkhisof Kazwini.
D'Herb. 849.3.]

178. c^AJv^' 140

The Exposition. [Probably the work mentioned above.]

179. ^Ju^ u^^ 220

The same j a fine copy.

180. ^\x^ j.,al^ » 200

The Abridgement of Metaphysics. [Probably the shorter

Commentary of Sadu'ddin Al TaftSzani. See H. KH.]

181. Ditto 300

182. ^UixtJl Jul ^^i^J^*-; .... 180
Sadu'ddin on the Key. [Probably the same work as the

preceding.]

183. (^ ij^yis^ t^W^ ISO

A Collection of Metaphysical Tracts.

184. Ditto 30

185. «!LXwJj '^W iM.^ . . . . 110
Ditto, &c.

186. ,^ ^^^AJ^ ilujj 90

A Collection qf Quatrains. [This is, perhaps, merely a col-
lection of scraps of poetry; though, from the preceding
article, it is possible it may be exclusively appropriated to
spiritual subjects.]

APPENDIX, N'lir. 407

Paras

187. aJ^^ J C-W^ C:^-4^W J *^V^^ «^J'♦^ 140
A Collection of Tracts on Divine Grace.

188. ^X\i\ c:,.^^^. u**^^ ^/^ <^^> • ^^
An Essay on the Nature of the Soul, by Yecdest Efendi.

180. ij^,'^^ <rfJJ^ fci^UjJuai" <Uox4-i . 140
The Shamsiyyah. [A Treatise on Logic. D'Herb. 776. b.]

190. ^jJIa*- juuu,^^ ^^ cy]^j*flj . . 140

"The Images" (on the mind). A Commentary on the
Shamsiyyah, by Sadu'ddin. [Probably Al Taftazani,
whose commentary is mentioned by H. KH.]

191. cl:\jI_^ 100

[Probably the same work.]

192. \k) <U^j CL>\jy3J ^J>,Sx^ , . . 120
"The Images" by the two Sayyids*. [Perhaps it should be

j_^Juuj, which is the usual title of Al Jurnani. It is
probably his Comment on the preceding work.]

193. CLi\j_y^} Jj jUc 60

Oraad on " The Images." [Probably Omad ibn Mohammed
ibn Yahya ibn Ali Al Farsi.]

194. Cl^ljuJuaJat J^ ^Ui .... 440
Isam on " The Affirmative Propositions." [Probably Maulana

Isamu'ddin.]

* TasJyehi Bagha will admit of various interpretations; and without
knowing the subject of the work, it is impossible to determine which is to be
preferred. <D,^' moreover, has most probably been substituted by the
Transcriber for some other word.

2 0-2

408 APPENDIX, N°III.

Par»K

ig5. ^J^ ^Jj^\ sx£j (♦^j ^'^b ^J*^

c_;b!il . . no

Minkarl-zadeh and Isam, and Abdul Ali on Ethics.

196. ^^J .Uli C_>j1 90

Essay on Politeness, in Turkish,

197. ^^=--jj (J^ (^l\:^\ '^l^ . . . . 220
The Perfection of Students in Spiritual Sciences.

198. ^^^i}\ f^ ^ ^^^\ ^"d^ • • 700
A Work on the same subject.

199. ^^Ul\ JJoJu U^J ..... 70

A Translation of "The Advice to the Forgetful." [Probably
the work of Abu Laith al Samarkand! : D'Herb. 850. b.
who mentions two more having the same title and
subject.]

200. L^^o-\j CjU'i^ ^ uVllr* • • ' • ^^^
Mirza-jans Commentary on the Total Limit of " the Neces-
sary." [It consists of Scholia by Mirzajan Ash-shirazi,

the great work of Jelalu'ddin Asad.]

201. ^.>AJa> ^j^j^ H^.^.^ .... 180
The Commentary of Khabisi on the Tehzlb. [The Tehzibu'l

mantik wa'l Kelam is a very celebrated Treatise on Logic
and Scholastic Theology, by Al Taftazani. (It is omitted
in the catalogue of his works given by D'Herb. 847 . b.)
The Author of this Commentary was also named Abd-
u'llah ibn Fazh'Uah. H.KH*.]

202. iid\j ^j-^^ ^^\ (^UyjA) . . 140
Ou Scientific Subjects, by Tashcupri-zadeh. ID' Herb. 1026.a.

Mola Isamu'ddin, &c. The proper title of the work is
ifoLuJi ^Lu2^ J i'jbcuull -UjU. It contains an
account of near five hundred sciences.]

* See also Asiatic Researches, VIII. p. 89. 8vo Ed.

APPENDIX, NO III. 409

Paras

203. ^jS£. J ^l*l< f^AxJ ^ Cj-J^jill Is- . 140
The Polisherof Hearts, and "Instruction for the Stiidontf A't'-"

204. (>^j^_s (Xf^ (P^ •^j^ . • • • 110
A Commentary on the latter work, &c.

305. <J^J^^ jJ^ J J-^^*^ *i«j^ ("H^" • • "1^
The same, The Mudil (see above), and Bedru'r-reshid,

206. JjLj JLc.^:^ ^j^ 260

A valuable Collection of Tracts.

History & Biography.

207. ^j\j3 i^j\j 120

The History of Firari.

208. ^j\i s^J ^j\j . . . . . 110
The Select History, in Persian. [See D'Herb. Tarikh Kho-

zideh. 86s. b.]

209. c)^\ JjUi ^ cJjLJl ^'}j3 . . 90

The Utihty of Good Actions, illustrated by the Examples of
Virtuous Kings. [Probably an historical or biographical
miscellany.]

210. uJfkluui^ ISO

The Collector of Novelties. [A Historical Miscellany.
D'Herl'. Mostathraf, G34. b.]

211. ,.>AJj li^ XJ 1^0

The History of Taimur (Tamerlane).

t Published from a verj' defective copy, by Rcland, at Utrecht, iu 1 709 ; with
the tide of Enchiridiun Studioii.

410 APPENDIX, N» III.

Paras

212. jjAJj J^ijj 160

The History of Taimur (Tamerlane).

213. jl)^^^ Jj\ij U^J 20

A Translation of " the Details of History."

214. Ditto 60

215. Jj j\^^\ J:».15J 70

The same work, in Turkish.

216. ^^J^ jL- ^J-i. u^:.j<^ .... 90

The History of Yigirmi-sekiz Chelebi.

217. JU ^\^ J ^_^J ^A*^ <L^.ji . 160
The Victories of the Moslems, in Turkish ; and the Stra-
tagems of Aali,

218. ^J\ ^Jjl; 45

The History of Egri (Agria).

210. ji^\ :^^\ ijJUjti nj^

The Tree of the Family of Numan by the Shaikh Akber.
[Probably the work mentioned under this title by D'Herl\
767. a.-]

220. \j\ JU ^Jj u^J 70

A Translation of the Aalam-ara (Abbasi).

221. ia^ ^j:^, ^^b- 180

The History of Pechevi, in the Hand-writing of ... . [The

name of the Transcriber is wanting.]

222. ^y ^jj&UlJl ^J 80

The Treasure of Heroes, in Turkish.

APPENDIX, y III. 411

223. (j^s^UU ^j'J 140

The History of the Othnian Empire, by Nishanji (Pasha).

224. Jjl Ji». «uli ijA:>. 140

The First Volume of the History of Hamzah.

225. j.a^ ;^.jlj 46o

History of Egypt,

226. fj^^ y^s^ ^.j^ ^^^^J .... 220
A Translation of the History of Egypt, by Suyuti.

227. ^/y (•^^ ^.>" 25

A History in Metre ; in Turkish.

228. OLilijjX^ J J^^jG ..... 60
Historical Relations.

229. lib ^^^ Jkj ^./" .... 45
The History of Tiryaki Hasan Pasha.

230. \jj)\ J cJ^Ut ^'A*. .... 300
The Garden of Kings and Vezirs.

231. \jjji\ '^'.Jo^ Jjj go

Continuation of the Garden of Vezirs.

232. ^L ^^Jj ....... 220

The History of Sami.

233. !iJ)\j ^\sxA^ ^j^ iAJjl; .... 220
The History of Muri Shemadan-zadeh.

234. ^j^ iJoXo J^iJg ^^J . • . . 140
A History of Medinah } in 1 urkish.

412 APPENDIX, N° III.

Paras

235. i^jli c^jUjo :^„j\y\\ ,*\liu ' .' . . 70
The Chain of Histories, by Baizavi ; in Persian.

236. J^\ Is^ 200

A Present for the Great. [Probably the Naval History of
the Turks, by Katib Chelebi,]

237. ^"iS j\>^\ ^ ^\ lJ^ ^^y . 110
A Translation of " The Consoler of Afflictions by the History

of Nations."

238. i^\y^ ^jb- 220

The History of Khwajah \i. c, Sadu'ddin Efendl, the cele-
brated Turkish Historian.]

239. ^,f. ^\j^\ Jj^ ^,p . . .
History of the Mountain of the Pyramids 3 in Arabic.

240. Jj^ lJJ^ l^'ti ^.jIj
First Volume of the History of Naima.

241. ^^Ulc JT '^,p . . . . . 300
History of the House of Osman.

242. Ditto 180

243. \.J^\ J^j Jj^ '^i^ u^ ^.>" . 500
First and Second Volume of the History of Taberi.

244. [(*-^] ^^^ *-r^:^^ ^3J • • • 700
"The Garden/' by the Preacher Kasim, [i. e. ^bo-^l 'L£^\ —

[An Abridgement of the Historical Miscellany of Za-
maksheri. See D'Herh. Rabi. 704. a.]

245. Ditto 30Q

APPENDIX, N" 111. 413

I'aras

246. j^\j U-oia:^ <Ujj ^^^J • • . 130

A Translation of the]same work.

j1^ . . 140
The Ceremonies observed in the Pilgrimage to Mekkah,
Medinahj and Jerusalem (Kuds), by Shaikh Murad.

248. ijXK3\ (J^f^\ iUU *JsL- . . . . 110
The History of Salim, by Ishak Efendi.

249. *jJ— ^jUalw »._^lvv 15

The Memoirs of Sultan Selim.

250. J^\ aU i_^llc ^ jUs^\ JiyLz . 180

Strings of Pearls exhibited in the Virtues of the Great Imam.
[i. e. Abu Hanifah. This is, doubtless, the work of
Mohammed ibn Ali, ibn Yusuf. The full title is,

H.KH.]

251. f^c] /»U u-->ill« ^^J . . . 660

A Translation of the Life of the Great Imiim. [Probably the
preceding work J in Turkish.]

, 252. ^j^j\i cjL,^. c:j^ ^"i . . , 220
The History of the Patriarch Joseph ; in Persian. [Probably
this is only a Romance.]

253. UU ci^lJuls ISO

Memoirs of the Learned.

414 APPENDIX, N» III.

Paras

254. <UiUxi Jj.l£i- -ji 500

A Translation of "The Anemonies." [Either a Life of Abu

Hanifah, by Zamakhsheri, entitled J ^JuJtj\\ (J^}*-^
^UjcaII (j^'}<*-»~ or the Memoirs of "the Learned among
the Turks, by Tash-Kupri-zadeh, entitled /?jl*-«»
ZjU^\ iljjJl *UU ^ 4j\Aj6!i\ H.KH.]

255. }iJ\j (^^ UJjl ^^ill« . . . . igo

Memoirs of the Saints, by Nazmi-zadeh.

256. ^J IJjt ^\1^ • . . . . 260
Ditto, in Turkish.

257. [//i\ 'iJ'Si i^^JS ..... 220
A Translation of the Lives of the Saints.

258. ^j ^jAa^\ ^ju^\ 220

The best of Tales, by Berkeli. [Probably on the same

subject.]

25g. ^J [IjoJI] IjJuI ^joJi . . . 300O
The Tales of the Prophets, in Turkish.

260. Ditto 180

261. j]l j1>. cdUJkII iy . . . . 45

First Volume of the Miratu'lcayinat. [A History of the
Prophets, in Turkish, by Nishanji-zadeb, who died
A. H. 1031. H.KH.]

262. C-jlje-l A^jj U^J 150

A Translation of " The Garden of Friends" f^^ j
L-j\sX£i\_^ ,^_^\ »Jws jJ t-^Us*.^! — The Life of the
Prophet and his immediate followers. H. KH.]

263. Ditto 740

APPENDIX, N* III. 415

Paias

264. j} '^ LS^ J^ ^^^

First Volume of the Life of the Prophet.

265. ^ ^ Jj i 300

Continuation of the Life of the Prophet.

266. f^,jJi> [J^.U^] ckU-» . . . . 180

The Exalted Virtues. [Probably an Eulogium on the Pro-
phet.]

267. i^^ ^J>.^^ (JJU1.KI (— a/.y- fi^y • HO
The Illustrious Birth, by Shamsu'ddin, Sivasi. [Probably

a Life of the Prophet.]

208. 15''^ J 15^ U*^."!^ lS^'J J^ ' ' 700
The Travels of Veisi to Meccah and Medinah. A fine copy.

269. ^J^ ^_^j J [j^] j^ ^''"° • • 180

270. ^^Jl». liss^ ^^^>jjX^ Ditto, transcribed

by Hakki 440

271. ^_^^j jX^ . . . Ditto . . 160

272. 4_?J*-J^^ JiJ^ j^ .-,.... 140
The Life of Aziz Efendi.

273. Ditto « 92

274. lS^^} (JLij^ CLijds-^ '—'V.J** ^-«iU,« . 140
Memoirs of the Sherif Nusret Ayyadi.

275. a)J1 U, ^}\^\ ^ A^! \^j\ iUJiJc* . 180
The Virtues of the Saints, displayed in the History of

Rizau'Uah.

416

APPENDIX, N" III.

276. Uj ^joi,
Memoirs of Shaikh Vefa

277. ^^Ji h\^\ l^jj
The Garden of Kazis, in Turkish.

278. ^^J^ ^j^ CJliUL
The Lives of Sufis, by Sellemi.

279. ^jM 5^1 ^jj . . .

The Lives of the Turkish Poets, by Latifi.

280. ^jU \jxJ^\ 'iJSi . . .
Ditto, by Sadiki.

281. j^^jIs- ^^y,^ sJ'Si 660

The Lives of the Turkish Poets, by Hasan Chelebi.

282. 1^1 Syjj* Lives of the Poets . . 45

283. ^^jJ^ c^l^ J^l jyL)J . . . 110
Official Regulations, by Katib Chelebi. [A sort of Court

Calendar, or Register of all the Great Offices of the
Turkish Empire, by Haji Khalifah.}

284. Ditto .110

285. Ditto 140

286. ^}^t^ ^.jlj' J ^^\3 .... 60

A Code of Regulations, and the History of Constantinople.

Paras
190

110
500

Poetry y Romances, &c.

287. v_^, Va.j^ toV*^ The Poems of Hasib

288.

Baki

70
240

APPENDIX, N» III. 417

Paras

28gi ^b j\^j CLi\j\^ 240

A complete Collection of the Poems of Baki.

2Q0. ^Ji {.'^A '^J J H^J LS^yj} cl^."^ ^ ^ ^
The Poems of Vakuii, Selim, and Reshid; in Persian.

291. ^jC Ji^J The Poems of Ui-n . . 225

292. Ditto 100

293. Ditto 180

294. iXjLsJ The Elegies of the same Poet . 70

295. OJ^ (oW.'^ The Poems of Sabit . 170

296. [ci^Uji^] CL;IjJj£ The Odes of Ditto . 180

297. [|<r*^] *-^^ The Poems of JamI . 70

298. Ditto 110

299. (*J^Ji»M y>^ Khamu Ibrahim . 90

300. ^v jw jjju^ The Poems of Shems Tebrlzi 160

301. «— jU . . Sayib . . . 140

302. ^^jj . . Rusheni . . 380

303. Ditto 120

304. (>j^j^ (^i • the late Fehim . 90

305. CJbJjji ^yi^:^ ^ j^\s. .... 300
Poems of Aasim, and a Collection of Odes.

418 APPENDIX, N°III.

Paras

3 06. ^.J^ ' The Poems of Maghribi . . HO

307. ^yLJU . Nakshi . . 260

308. ,^L . Sami . . 140

309. ^j^ 'V^ J ly^-^**^ Ismeti, and Sayyid Sabri 140

310. tJ'VJ^ ^J:^*''*^ \^ ci-yasw j|^c3 ^^ 700
A Commentary on the Poems of Ali Hosain Meibidi.

311. Ji\.j i L5^^J L^^J 1*:^^ J^^ dji"^ 260
The Poems of Sultan Selim, Shahi, Ahli, and Riyaz.

312. ^l5 . The Poems of Kalimi . . 70

313. ^_jiL>. fc-jL,^^ YusufHakki . hH

314. kiU. . Haiiz . . 110

315. Ditto 220

316. \J»*^ Ditto, a fine copy .... 300

317. ^jtxi . The Poems of Nefii . . 340

318. fj^ • — Nejati . . 220

319- Lf^J^ ' Sebuhi . . 110

320. ^\j . Nayili . . 220

321. Ditto 14Q

322. ^J ^^^ Faizi, in Turkish . 220

323. w::^^ . The Poems of Shekvet , 220

324. *j»a; .

APPENDIX, N» III.
. The Poems of Nedim

410

325. ^^ A£jA^

A Collection of Poems.

326. jlil; ^^^j

The Poems of Rahmi, in Tahtarian.

327. ^j£. . The Poems of Irshi

328. ij^^ • Mutenebb;

329. ^sij . Refdi .

330. ^j&

331. i^j>a^ ^ 1 jj

332. ^^. .

333. Ditto .

334. cf/*^.

335. J\j^ .
33^. ^\>.j .

Poems in Arabic

f Misr]
Yahya

,.jW>i The Poems of Misri

337. s^'V^J V^^r^b

338. is*^j '

339. jd.U . -

340. «»?Jouis . -
3-11. Xj cJ-^ Sadik, in Turkish

Yeseri

Ghazali

Riyazi

id Abdi

ditto, Tayyibi, an
Riimi

Naliki

QbeiJi

Parat

540

260

700
4O0
180
160
260

110
25

120

220

380

3 80

420 APPENDIX, N° III.

Paras

342. cAj loj^V. ^i The Poems of Feridun Beg . 140

343. t^JjJj . Vadi . . 35

344. "\^JoLi. y>Xi ^j\3 ^jL . . . 180
The Poems of Sherf, in Persian^ transcribed by Shefiii.

345. j^jaU- t^\ . 6o

The Poems of Emri Chelebi.

346. ^j ^^^y) 40

The Poems of Ibrahim, in Turkish.

34/. sdji li-^:^' ^^-^y ^^^

A Translation of the Elegy entitled " The Mantle." [See
D'Herh. 211. a. Bordah.'\

34S. a^ijj asj^ ^jL . . .' . . 180

A Commentary on " The Mantle."

349. ajll A Hdj ^j^ ..... 150
Ditto, by Abu Shanah.

350. ijLi^s ^^j>-j^ ^^ji SSXaJ . . . 140
A Commentary of Kayish, on the same Poem.

351. ^.l-Ac &M^ 140

The Five Poems of Isayi.

352. <uU sll The Shah Nameh ... SO

353. (*J^ ^"^ ^^ f^J .... 500
The Shah Nameh, in verse, in Turkish.

APPENDIX, N* in. 421

Farai

354. AluJb y^^ oluj e^V ^-^-^ rj^ • ISO
Ibni Hisham's Comment on the Poem of Cab ibn Zuhalr.

Published by Lette at Ley den, 1748.]

355. [ci^jUji] c:j\jJj^c Odes .... 70

356. irjj j^^Jjt ^y^ V:>^ .... 70

The Error of the Mesnevi, by Ibn-dedeh.

357. Ditto 180

358. Jj^J>jJ ^'^J^ ^y*^ {.^J'j^l ^j^-J^ r/^ '^^^

A Commentary on the same work, &c. Translation of
Bud-numud. [The MSS. has Jexirah twice.]

359. L5«^ i^y-*^ rA \^^ .... 240
Second Commentary on the Mesnevi, by Shemii.

360. ici^^ iUjlix^ The Metrical Version of

Antabi ... 70

361. jlw 45

The Garden (Bostan). [A celebrated work of Sadi.]

362. Ditto 60

363. JU^ 80

The Rose Garden [by the same Author].

364. Ditto 140

365. Ditto . 110

366. ^'i jUui^ ^^.^ ^ .... 80

A Commentary on the Introduction to the Gulistan (Rose
Garden), by Lami.

VOL. III. '^D

422 APPENDIX, N* III.

Paras

367. ^^ JSjJ^ ^jL ..... . 140

A Commentary on the Gulistan, by Lami.

368. (--JoJJl i^^jjU c^bol ^^ . . . 220

A Commentary on the Stanzas of the Mufti Al-Lebib.

369. j\kc jJo U^J 70

A Translation of the Pendi-nameh of Attar,

370. ^^Ji^^ L5=V^ '^ ^^^

A Commentary on the same work, by Shemii.

371. ^J «ul3 c>.iC-^ 35

" Counsels," in Turkish. [Probably a Version of the Pendi
Attar.]

372. i<^j^ jU-J*l Poems J in Persian . , 140

373. ^j^\ ^ j\xL\ ijiASS^ .... 110

A Miscellany of Poems, &c. [The word elyaz occurs several
times, in a sense which the Dictionaries do not give*.]

374. [<uUi)lj] «uU&Ij 45

[Probably a book of Tales. See Encykl. Uebersicht, p. 454.]

375. Ditto 50

^76. i.^r^ 5j*^ The Romance of Khosrev and

Shirin .... 55

377. i(u^ . . Ditto, by Shaikh , 110

• Perhaps it means " blank leaves."

APPENDIX, N° III. 423

Paras

378. t/*^^ is**T* *^^iJ ^^ Tj^ i cj^""^^' ivj"***" ^^

The Guarded Fortress ; The Book of Pleasure : and the Essay
of Musa Efendi.

379. ^5i'T Jj ^^,«^ 70

The [Poems] of Husni-dil Ahi.

380. ^1} Jjdj <U=^ 20

A Translation of the Romance of the Nightingale.

381. <uU jJoCl 140

The Romance of Alexander.

382. ^fJoi] j)^jc <uli jUA- .... 500

The Romance of Soloman, by Aziz Efendi.

383. ^^\j j^j^i 110

The Romance of Firuz,

384. iju^ t^^^''^ [^j] ^IJ ^-*-^. • "5^

The Romance of Yusuf and Zoleikha, by Hamdi, a fine copy.

385. JxL\ ^j\i J^\ ^aM ... 660

The Charms of Imagination, a Poemj in Persian.

386. ^\J JjiJ OU^ . .
A Complete Collection of the Poems of Nabi.

660

387. ^U «UJsi- The Khairiyyeh of Nabi . 120

388. JjU- JSJ^^ TheTaleofKhalili . . 40

389. jUrf .yuJ^ The Garden of Lovers . HO

2 D 2

424 APPENDIX, N« 111.

Vaxkt

3gO. xj\j Ji,\3 i} jl^^ ci>]^ . . 180

The Mirror of Lovers, by Karah Kash-zadeh.

391. Ditto 700

392. Aiiy ^^ iUlJ jAc .... 110
The Book of Love, by Ibni Firishteh.

393. ^. Iji J ll:. 70

The King and the Beggar, by Yahya,

394. *j|j lib JU^ ^]ij .... 380
The Picture Gallery, by Kemal Pasha- ladeh. See D'Herb.

671. a. 956. a.

395. ju^ ji Ditto 260

396. i^JuUb (^^ 90

[Perhaps the Divan of Faizi, the brother of Abu'l Fazl.

397. c:,*«U5 Jtj»-lj o'^J^jh l5*^ cyljUU 20
Tales of the Judge and the Thief, and an account of the

Resurrection.

398. i^\j ^yjujs . 140

The Humiyun Nameh. [A celebrated translation of the

Anviri Soheili into Turkish. See Jonesii Com. Poeseos
Asiat. p. 452.]

399. ^j},j»- CJUUU . . . . . . 500

The Assemblies of Hariri.

400. Ditto 700

APPENDIX, N* iir. 425

Grammars y Dictionaries ^ ^c.

Paran

401. kclj ^jJ-**»- ^^^ ^Jy^ . . . 140
The Rhetorical Treasure, by Husein Vaiz.

402. L5J\ Rhetorical Formularies . * . Q

403. ^^JJijl^ wJjU-* ^ «Uj^u^ . . . 220
A Miscellaneous Collection of Rhetorical Exercises.

404. ^"i UJu^ 220

A Treatise on Rhetoric, by Lami.

405. Ditto 220

406. \JlSi\ j^O A Guide to Rhetoric . . 220

407. s^\j JUi cyliJ^ 220

The Rhetorical Lessons of Khanali-zadeh.

408. ^*uu>j Ditto, by Veisi .... 120

400. jJu4^UJJj1 t-i^^^ f^J^^ *^ . . QO
The Rhetorical Lessons of Khanali-zadeh, by Abdu'l Kerim:
has never been on sale before.

410. Ditto 180

411. J^y t^ }ib\ 9^

Tracts on the Particles, &:c.

412. J^1yJ\ Jj^ *S\j ^J . • • • 120
Zeini-zadeh, on ditto*.

• Probably the J^1\ C-^w or I'arsing of the Izhar by Zelnl-jideh,
printed in the Royal Press at Vtkudar {Scutari). A.H. 1218= A.D. 1803.

426 APPENDIX, N III.

Paras

413. j[^\ J^ J^!b\ 1100

[Kush] Atah-li on the Izhar.

414. J-«^^ J ^\ (Jjy ^ iiii\j ^J - 270
Zeini-zadeh, with Kush-Atahli on the Particles.

415. Ja:1j3 J ^jS iUU! 60

Rules and Examples, in Persian.

416. ^ ij^yi^ 90

A Collection of Examples, in Persian.

417- ij^J J-U1^ ut/S ^\Ji .... 90
The Principles of Persian Grarmmar, with Examples.

418. Jh ^^ 70

Belali, on the same subject.

419. J-Iju« t_*U^ 11

A celebrated work on the Syntax, by Zamakhsheri.

420. ^_^ iU^ y^ Syntax, complete . . 260

421. Ditto go

422. Ditto 320

423. (jj-jju JU* ^'i jJJuU ^^ . . 260
A Commentary on the Miftah, by Ibni Kemal. A fine copy.

[See D'Herl. 57 1. b.]

424. lib ^j,^ ^jL ^]^ . . . . 35
A Commentary on the Merah, by Hasan Pasha ; \i. e. the

Merahu'l-arwah li-tasrif. See D'Herl. 578. a.]

425. U,b ^ju^ ^j« --i .'.... 70
Ditto.

APPENDIX, NO III. 427

Paras

426. ^^1 Jj: jyjj 20

Donkuz on the same work. [D'Herb. 300. a.]

427. L>**:^*^ Ditto, a fine copy .... 344

428. Js. ^^jL [^J ir^jj ^^\ J^ jjd^lA*^

jj.dUJl . . . 320
S^du'ddin on Al IzzI ; and the Ruhi Shuruh on the Maksud.
[See D'Herl. Ezzi, Izzu'ddin al Zinjani, Sadu'ddin is al
Taftazani. For the Maksud, see below,]

429. (Ditto, without the latter) .... QO

430. Ditto 130

431. Ditto 45

432. JO- ^j^ ^Jje. 130

The Sayyid [Jurjani's Commentary on Izzi.]

433. ^^ ii^ uJ^ 90

The Declensions and Conjugations [of the Arabic Nouns and
Verbs.]

434. Ditto . go

435. Ditto 140

436. Ditto 180

437. ^\ JOft JO- ^j»>-ji» tSi\L . . . 300
A Commentary on the Shafiyyah, by Seyyid Abdu'llah.

[A work on the Tasrif, by Ibn Hajib. The Commentator
is also named Al Hosaini.]

438. Jij-fli* ^jL c-?jUi« 70

'' The Inquiry," a Comment on the Maksud.

428 APPENDIX, N III.

Paras

439. ilU!j Ujj jyojL^ -ji, ♦ . . . . 90

A Commemary on the Maksud [a celebrated work on this
subject], and other Tracts on the Conjugation of Verbs.

440. LxAll ^U) ^j>jL Mi .... 70
A Commentary on the Conjugations, entitled Manihu'lghina.

441. ^UiJl uJ-i.\^ ltV^ ^-r*!/-^ '^V • 90
A Commentary, entitled Kashifu'lkhinaa, on the " Principles

of Grammar."

442. t^Jjuj ^ UjJI ^J^ *Ia6 . . . 140
Isara on the Conjugations; with Sadi.

443. iUJl^ Kafiyyah 140

444. iUsl^ i^^J 25

A Translation of the Kafiyyah. [See D'Herh. 332. a.*]

445. <UJl^\ Jlc ^j 1200

Rezi, on the same work.

446. iSxlU- ijjjj\ ^^,-»JuUl> *ji\^ . . . 220
Scholia, on Hindi's Commentary on the same.

447. ^l<]1 Jj, ^^ 180

Hindi, on the same.

448. ^Kll Jj^ ^\ 90

A Commentary on the same.

* The <tjj\^| c-^ljxl or Parsing of the Kafiyyah by Zeim-zadeh was
primed at the Constantinople Press, A. H. 1200^ A, D. 1735-6.

APPENDIX, N° III.

Paraii

449. j^^yUj_^ Ajj\^ f>.4j 9^

The same, with Metaphysical Tracts j (the Isagoge of
Aristotle, &c).

450. j\xJ^'i\ ^jLz ^ J^\ j\jjf^ . . . 140
A Treatise on Prosody.

451. j\s^t Js: J^t [u^y] • • .1100
[Kush] Atahli on the Imtihan [ul ezkiya, an Abridgment of

the Kafiyyah,]

452. \s\jh\j ^jJl SXLj «uK Xtf . . . 140
The Hundred Verbs, by Reshidu'ddin, &c.

453. ^jJi>j\ jJU- iUiJ^ S-^ .... 34
The Parsing of the Alfiyyah, by Khalid Ezheri. [See

D'Herb. 88. a.]

454. ^\ ^usiil *^j^ Ic . , . . 140
The Science of Letters, by Shaikh Akber. [It treats of

the Cabalistical Use of the Letters of the Alphabet.
(E.U. 615,) and ought to have been introduced under
the head of Theology.]

455. jrt^^^j^^^ f^ ijy*'^ ^^jiH^^^y^yr ^^
" The Essence of the Enlightening Secret in the Science of

expanding and contracting." A Treatise on the Ca-
balistical Sense of the Names of God, according as they
are lengthened or abbreviated. [Encykl. Ueber. 616.]

492

456. <*-i\i {jM\i\ ^ The Dictionary of lyyas ;

Persian . . 110

430 APPENDIX, N'lII.

Paras

457* f*^j^J U*^^^ LSf"^ "^^^ Dictionary of Haji

Ilyas, &c. . . 50

458. !Sjd\j . . The Rare Vocabulary . 20

459. Ditto 35

460. ^^ jWy .... 280

A Dictionary called the Interpreter of the Sahhah [i. e.
A Standard of Correctness ; the title of a celebrated Dic-
tionary by Jaijheri.]

461. Ditto 45

462. Jk«tfl5-*3t ^^^9 — ^ Dictionary entitled

Vesiletu'Imakasid, 1 80

463. ^^^4^ J^ — The Sahhah, in Persian, 50

464. ,j^ ^U^ jMkr* . . . . . 360

An Abridgment of the Sahhah, neat. [The Sahhah is the
Great Dictionary of Al Jauheri, whence Golius was
taken.]

465. ^5.fcjJ^ 170

The Persian and Turkish Dictionary, by Halimi.

466. i^^^Jis*^ A Vocabulary . . 110

467. JiiJaiU^ itUl c:,.«jo . . 260

Persian and Turkish Dictionary of Nimetu'llah Muhafezahli,

468. Ditto 320

469. <^Jdfcll The Vocabulary of Shahidi 340

470. Ditto 90

47 !• ixL *»\ Dictionary of Abu Shakkah 300

APPENDIX, N" III. 431

Parat

472. Li^^***^ The Present of Vehbi. AVocabuIary*.

473. (jUjw? ilL^^- The Children's Chaplet. Ditto t.

474. i^UJii JUJJl Aii The Law of Speech, by

A's-saalibi . . 220

475. t^^*'*^- ^ <uljl J^li A Dictionary, by Karah

Hisari . . 110

476. csj^..) ^J*«-J t^^ i\ftU\ . . . 300
The Metaphor, by Isami and Hasan Zibari.

477. j_jjuw- CjIju^' 180

The Tarifat of Al Jurjani. [A Dictionary of Theological and

Philosophical Terms. See D'Herb. 856. b.]

Medicine, Surgery, &c.

478. ^_^ji^ jj^% i^\ ^j^\ . . . 500
Synopsis of Medicine, by Amir Chelebi.

479. ZJo j^lJjJl c.^>^J c^lr^^ -^^^ ' ^^^
The Key to Treasuries, and the Lamp of hidden Treasures j —

on Medicine.

• Of which there are two Editions from the Royal Press at Uskud&r
(Scutari). The first printed in A. H. 1213 = A. D. 1798-9: the second in
A. H. 1223__A.D. 1808 j and one with a copious Commentary, printed
A. H. 1215= A. D. 1800-1. The latter had already become extremely scarce
in Constantinople itself, in 1813; which shews how much this Vocabulary
is used by the Turks.

f Printed at the Scutari Press, A.H. 1216= A.D. 1801-2.

432 APPENDIX, N' III.

Paras

480. t^t Jut ^ <dJ! iju. ^J> . . llu
Minnetu'Uab on the Science of Medicine \ in Turkish.

481. cliail J> \xL ^..^.^s^ .... 260
The Compendium of *' The Remedy 3" on Medicine.

482. Ditto • . . . 340

483. j>-y> .^jL j<*ujjLJ ..... 100

Commentary on the Compendium, by Nefjsi, [See D'Herh.
656. b.]

484. <*Jj<^^^ ^,,y^ A Pharmacopoeia . , 180

485. Ditto .... .... 50

486. jU=jo ^\ c:jtj^ "Simples," by IbnBeitar, 260

487. ^J fc-r^ • Medical Simples 3 in Turkish, 80

488. ji^\ ^l^ 140

The Guide for (Apothecaries') Shops, [See D'Herb. 577. a.]

489. Uj.-^ ^^ T^J^ Surgery and Medicine . Qq

490. ^J — Ditto; in Turkish . 300

491. iJi? ^^jXL ^\ jl^jl). .... 300
The Memoranda of Ibni Shirin; — on Medicine.

492. c^jjyii ^ua^ 220

The Key of Light*, and [a Tract on] Medicine,

* " The Key of Light" is jwobably some work on Alchemy.

APPENDIX, N' HI. 433

Fara^

493. (— >Ujll oac ^J Jjb .... 4.')

Medicine, in Turkish, by Abdu'l Vehhab.

Wonderful Recipes, — Medicine ; in Persian.

495. lS^^j^. ^^^y U^lA^l/ *V.'^ ^-r^ ' ^^^
Modern Medicine, by Paracelsus, translated by Bursevif.

496. t/AAJl jA£. Us>-Ji ^^^\j ■ . 300

Ditto, translated by Omar Efendi.

497. JOiX>. L--^ ^jC ,jMyJ^\ji ■ . ' 110
Modern Medicine, Ditto in Arabic J.

498. Cj-J? ^ L5^y^ ^^ J^
The Oculist, by Sinobi, with a Medical Tract.

499. u^ ^ ^^.3-^ i^^ '
The Prescription of Suveidi, on Medicine.

140

220

Onirocritics, Natural History, Geomancy, &c.

500. — .i\i «u\j yowti Essay on Dreams, in Persian, 460

501. L^j^Lj^^ bylbniShirin . 220

502. ^^jc- — —> inArabic, 320

503. ^J , in Turkish, 200

504. ^_5*uJ^ Li>\j ij6\j byVeisi . . 15

-f- Bursevi means a native^of Bruta.

I This book exists in the Clarkian Collection, in the Bodleian I.ibmry at
Otjord.

434 APPENDIX, N" III.

Paras

505. <t<li Jbl*>- . A Treatise on Precious Stones, QO

506. C-jUIjJcw ^J>\^ Natural History of Animals, 130

507. t:;Uj^^ '^ii^ ^^? A Translation of " Brute

Biograpiiy" . 8OG

508. CJlijSift^ u-^^l:^j jyi -^.Uj . . 140

Scientific Results, and the Wonders of Creation, [by Kazvini ;
a well-known work.]

509. ^J culijU^I i-rV.^ ... go
The Wonders of Creation, in Turkish.

510. J^. J.4»-l — — — ... 70
The Wonders of Creation, in Turkish, by Ahmed Bijan.

511. ^jyi if^y*^ • Scientific Results . . 1 20

512. Ditto 160

513. *j1j ^^y^ xj\i^ \i AjUi TJy^^ • 1^*0
A Synopsis of the Sciences, transcribed by Karah Chelebi-.

zadeh.

514. i^J^ (J^ • Geomancy, in Persian . 70

515. ^J . - — in Turkish . 300

516. Ditto . . . Ditto ditto . . ISO

517. j^U- J e^>*»- j:t^ ^'♦^^ .... 180
The Enigma, by Mir Husein and Jami.

APPENDIX, N* III, 435

Geography, Astronomy, Arithmetic, &c.

Pajrdc

518. iiJ)]j ^Ia^ j^J^l j^yu [«U:?^^.^] . ^J^ 320
Extract from the Register of Regions, by Sipaln-zadeh. [Al

Maula Mohammed ibn Ali, d. 997, The entire title is

It is an alphabetical arrangement of the original work,
H.KH.]

519. iJjj^ jy^ c:--«A 110

The Seven Regions, by Herevi. [Perhaps a Romance.]

520. ^^ ^jj LJja Jd J^ Jjj . . 380
Appendix to the Jehan-numa, or Riim-ili*. •

521. (jwJiJl J <UuJ^lj i^ Jrl^ • • 120
Excellencies of Mekkah, Medinah, and Jerusalem.

522. ^ytL. cl:\jL)^ As- ..... 70
The Art of determining the Hour of Prayer, by Selimi.

523. ^j^j^ u*^^ Jl^l 140

A Commentary on the Fundamental Diagrams in Geometry.

[See D'Herb. Samarcandi, 753. a.]

524. ^JusAsJ\ ^u>-Ji A Translation of Euclid . 340

525. clb jJi ^J 1200

The Astronomical Tables of Ulugh Beg.

526. jJl ^J Ditto 70

• Translated into German by Mr. De Hammer, and published with the
following title ; Rumeli und Bosna geographisch beschrieben von Mutafa ben
i\bdalla Hadschi Chalfa. fTien. 1812. 8vo.

436 APPENDIX, N* III.

Paras

527. Oj [t^l]>51 ^j ^j^ J ^\jSi\ c:^.V 900
Nihayetu'l idrak, and a Commentary on the Tables of Ulugh Beg.

528. ^^ J ^J -y 220

A Translation of Astronomical Tables.

52g. ^J uJiJaJ ^L, 140

Treatise on the Astrolabe j in Turkish.

530. ^J>JLi ^ i^.*^^ «-->ya-1 j-jj JjU, 180
Treatises on the Astrolabe, &c. by Mardini and Selini.

531. if^LwU ju-^jk». ,<-*jJi— »Jj . 140

Treatises on the Quadrant, Sector, and Horizontal Circle.

532. ^^ A9-!y. jLaft^l Ji?j ir^kwU <)U; . 180
Treatise on the Horizontal Circles and Dials, by Is-hak

Khwajah.

533. ^ <u-!y- ^}^ uJiJhJ *)L, . . 220
A Treatise on the Astrolabe, by the same.

** . *'

534. cJ\jbj>\ »yS^ sJaJjL* jjj JjU, . 30

Treatise on the same. The Bright Stars.

535. ijawI % (*h^ is.y4g>* Tracts on Astronomy,

and blank leaves . 1 60

h^Q, ^J »y^ Ditto, in Turkish . 35

537. <IOi A^ ^Ui>-Ji 340

Translation of the Heavenly Stars.

APPENDIX, N° III. 437

Paras

538. (J-u^ ,^_gX4.is>- --i) 80

The Commentary of Chaghmini (in fine condition).

539. t^dJ^jij L5"^-*^ ZJ^ .... 700
The Commentary of Chaghmini and Berjendi.

540. Cl.-'^J^ i<^J^ Astronomy; in Persian , 70

541. 15^ <— ^liuii-. Arithmetic; in Turkish . 110

542. t-jUJU^^l C-^Lai Principles of Arithmetic . 240

543. c_>lujo^ Jj[^ The Perfection of Arithmetic, 110

Essays, Miscellanies, &c.

544. |J?Uju> JjLm Essays, by SiaatI . . Qo

545. JjU, Ditto 220

546. — Ditto 30

547. <*::^}y Ditto, on Reading [The Koran]j 340

548. LLu) ^\ Ditto, by Ibn Sina (Avicenna), 70

549. ^J^^X^ A Collection of Ditto . 140

550. ci^bo^js^ — Ditto 180

551. jLo/fii -ji> ^1& Ditto on Comment on

the Mesal . . 220

552. Xj^ (jwJ^Ji ^Xks\ Jy*^^j.'jfi — Ditto, by
Azlj^Mahmud Efendi, (May his Tomb be venerated !) 240

553. ^JtMJ — Ditto, by Nasafi . . . 140
VOL. III. 2 E

438

APPENDIX, N° III.

Paras

554. ,^j^j ^j^j ^ri;^ 1*^^ • • • "^^^

Essays, by Imam Tohavi, Suyuti, and Halebi.

555. ifjfj (jjujeJ k^ dlU, 1X)0

A Tract, transcribed by N^s-zadeh.

556. JU- jXc- lS<^^ l5**1^* Ditto, by M-Qsa

Efendi, on the Art of ... . [Probably some branch of the

art of divination. This title occurs again N° 621.] . 70

Archery, &c.

55 7» <^U (jjj^ . . Treatise on the Bow , QO

558. j^^<uLj^ 4^l> jij\ on Bows and Arrows, 140

559. jCl^ ^Jly^'* A Collection, by Keshkil, ISO

560. ^fy^ An Amusing Collection, 120

561. ^J uJjiy Dittoj in Turkish . 25

562. Ditto 55

563. («_p^W*]l ajjjuu? t_cjlkJJl 'J^^AJSi-^ . 380
Ditto, a Cabinet of Knowledge.

564. Ditto 800

565. <Uil3 JjL»; . ACollectionof useful Essays, 140

566. *j5;j^2^^,<U.#>;^Ditto,byYaghlikchi-zadeh, 440

APPENDIX, N" III. 439

Parat
t-
^^T . iX|ly . . A useful Miscellany . . 140

568. ^ jJ^- J j>>>^ J fHj^ ^ Miscellany of

History, &c. . . 140

569. i<«^ djiytj^yo The Miscellany of Sami . 110

570. (JL:\ij::fs^\ A Miscellany of Experiments, 120

571. i^jA^ ^ ^ :^»^ ... 30

A Miscellaneous Treasure, transcribed by Sipahi.

5^2. <)LcyuU — A Miscellaneous Collection . 60

573. /mU*-i u-^'l^ C^lxi !£»- Miscellany, by Katib

Sinan . . 300

574. «^jlsa^ Select Miscellany . . QO

Appendix,

575. jSa isJLt ^ cJjU^ jS^ wU^ . 260

The Path of Walkers, with a Tract on Predestination.

57^' <-^^ t^j:^* Lf*^ Kazi Mir, and Lari . 440

577- [l^^V-] Jr*^ ^ ..... 660
Mulla Jami. [Probably a Commentary of Jami.]

578. Ditto 180

5 79. ^^\ (^ /*^ Isam on Al Hami . HO

2 E 2

440

APPENDIX, N« III.

580. ^^^\ J^ jjiil^Juc Abdu'l Ghafur on the

same

Paras

130
110

581. i— ^ !*«« ^j^} :SjAjm^ -jL
A Commentary on the Musabereh, by Ibni Sherif.

582. yj^}^\ ^.j>- ^>^^j\ The Particular Will, by

Ak-kermani . . 140

583. ^jUi J^'i\ uJ^ The Nobility of Man

LamJi

58 4. jSm JLJ The Little Scatterer .

585. J^JM^\ jjAx^j cJjl^^ ^.'Xa
The Present of Kings, and Aid of Travellers.

586. ^ji^ c->^l ^ KefevI . . .

587. ^UiJ^l jjj The Light of Elucidation .

588. ^J3ii\ ^Jls. CjUjJj^ ....
The Common Places, on Al Kari.

589. [^j\s^\] ^^lijl J^ ^U ^ ,
Email's Commentary on Al Kari.

590. <iJsjl><> a;£j^:^j JU A\y^\

The Mirror of Worlds, by Aali, and a select Collection.

591. <^b J^ Tokhmdari . . .

592. jj^\ .itfU-uJ! ^^H^ -^"^ • • .
The Keys of Secrets, by Shaikh Acber.

593. {ju\2\ ^UU The Blessings of Mankind

594. Ditto

.by

180
160
360

240

110

140

20
120

110
60

APPENDIX, N III. 441

Parai

095. ol^Ul L^\j^\j ^U . . : 140

The Mosque., with the Splendid Oratories.

596. <uil*M^ f^^V Musky Odours . . . 260

597. ii^\j ^\^ ci-JUt^ ThePiesents, byKhwajah-

zadeh . . . 220

598. cX>l*S^ j\x^\ ^ cX:^^ • . • 300

"' Vestiges/' traced in the History of Angels.

599. IjutuJ <UjJtf»- The Garden, by Soada , 440

600. ^_5—1jJu- ^jJ\ ,j*vk1 ^U 'U^y . 60
A Translation of the Brilliant Orbs, by Shamsu'ddin Sivasi.

60 1 . ^_5-\yJw ^,jJ^ ^Jtx^*J:. C>--i^ Paradise, by

Shamsu'ddin Sivasi . . 340

602. JjLs- ^^\ JU« The Refuge, by IbniJebel . 35

603. (wjliJJl j!j The Magazine of preciousWares, 110

fi04. (— i)-iSJ (♦9^^'^ <— j^ A Metrical Tract, on Mys-
tical Theology, in Persian . 110

605. ,^5-y^ i-Jj-aJ jjyi jUj The Explanation

of what is Accidental, a Mystical Tract, in Persian . 20

606. Ditto . 260

607. c:^U^j JU^ A Translation of" The Eaves" 70O

608. ci-^^ ci^JtJb The Eight Rejoicings /O

442 APPENDIX, N" III.

Paras

QOQ. ^Jj J.-'j'^^ t^V- The Collector of Excel-
lencies 5 in Turkish . . 50

010. («^_P i^}mj^ . Questions] in Turkish . 45

6 1 1 . ^^ A^ L5^^ ^^^ ^^°^^ Works of Shatibi, 1 1

612. Ditto 220

613. i^\j (j)^ jj-^isX^ Mutesevvir on Separation, 2 J

614. <ul} (JJ^ — Benevolence, 220

615. -^ &fiyi,::S^ Tracts on Benevolence, 660

616. ^J «u'J c:^^ Hospitality, 35

6l7« t/^^ (*:^^^ *^;A*" "^^^ Ornament, by Hakim

Efendi . . . 120

618. i^liU Imperial Ditto ... QO

619. ^J <uli /JL On Gratitude] in Turkish, 70

620. [^l»-) Jl*- ^^ CJ|;Is On Liberality, by

Sakali . I8O

621. U^ J JU j^U [See NO 556] . . 120

622. ^J!.J^^^ cijU^ The Liberation of the Pious, QO

623. ^J a^"^^ ^^ Ditto of the Diligent,

in Turkish , 5 5

624. S'-f-y^ ^jf-j c:^i/«^ ^^\^\ t-^J&lj^ . 50
The Gifts of the Giver, exemplified in the Science of discovering

what must necessarily be.

APPENDIX, N^ in. 443

Paras

625. Js-j^ c-PjUJl ^j,j.A^ 500

The Sun of Sciences, by Wasatl. [The mean or intermediate

work bearing that title. lir.j is probably not a proper
name.]

626. Uju- ^[£ ji\ Avicenna .... 140

627. ^AJ<i\ u-cjJ^ ^Jua^\ Jjti . . . 90
The Bright Ruby, by Hanif Eferidi.

628. <Uil^l Jjr j^ji>. ChelebiontheBehaniyyah, 180

629. <^^3o ^S)\m^ 80

630. ^jjSjL^ JAJ^ nj Karah Khalil Tashkupri, 180

63 1 . Jjb Xji Karah DaQd .... 440

632. Ijuj c-^JCy The Splendid Arrangement, 140

633. ^U JjJ Appendix to Nabi . . 260

634. J^y, (JJjj The Garden's Glory . . 90

635. jJj^ «Jll9 The Ascendant (Planet) at the Birth, 7

636. ^J^ 4^^-* ^J^j^ Ditto, by

Mirkebchi Mohammed Chelebi . . 360

637. J-^ i^^y A Translation of Mosli . 110

638. a^y^"^ '^ of the Present for

Muselmans , 30

639. ^j^z^ i^^\ ^^ '^ c?j^ y>>^ • 260

The Gem, by Sari Abdu'llah Efendi, &c.

444 APPENDIX, No III.

Paras

(340. JJj*^ jybia The Contemner, by Taifur . 180

641. , -^kc iUoiJ The Great Treasure . . 110

642. c/^l? c-jyil^ i^j£ ijyo Legal Formularies,

and blank leaves . . 35

643. <^A^\ i^ ijS ^\^A,M»- lsJ^ Fenarj, Hisme -
"feati, Karahjah Ahmed. [Probably tbe authors of three
different Tracts.] I8O

644. ^\J^\ The Column . . . . 110

645. <Uiu.i;L <U^ The Solar Palm Grove . 35

646. <uLc Jj*J ^ ''That which is relied upon." 180

64;. ^Jj- ^y^\ j^ i^^-U .... 700
The Quintessence of tiie hidden Secret, by Sudeni.

648. ^J J^\ ^Ajj JUlil Jo!y . .140
Hoped-for Advantages, and Pearls of highest Price ; in Turkish.

649. uJj^]j^ The Ocean of Science . . 240

650. Jvkll (j.\sX-o The Conversation of Birds , 70

651. ^5^U jl<J\ <5jL^' 180

A Present for the Age, by Selimi.

652. ^jfJoil ^U JjA>- 300

The Tables of Salih Efendi.

653. JLi^\ h\j^ ^ ^JL^'i] LU Aa^J . 140
A Translation of " AH that is attainable in the Knowledge of

Place,"

APPENDIX, N' III. 445

Paia*

654. ^^\ J/'^ ^ 340

A Commentary on the lUiiah by Suyuti.

655, j^ J\^ J^^'i] jyi ... no

Occult Sciences, by Jemali Khalweti.

656. ^^jJl t^,4a5 ;UJJU) U^J . . . 360
A Translation of the Introduction, by Kotbu'ddin.

657. ^IksnJl ^Oji, <OJUj^ .... 140
Abdu'llah Yezdi, on Alkhatayi.

658. ^^yj, ^A jxz aIa^-^^-j ps Pairs of Draw-

^ • . A I ( J '"§^' ^2 Piastres

^ r-if- dr^- L^ ^ 'Ob V < ^^^^_^^ ^ji^ ^^^

^ * L'^^/^ ^*^ I ^ Piastres.

VOL. III. 1 V

446 APPLXDIX, N" IV.

No. IV.

LIST of One Hundred and Seventy-tivo TALES,

CONTAINFD IN A MANUSCRIPT COPY OF

TAe-ALF LEELA O LILA,"

or '' Arabian Nights i'

AS IT WAS PROCURED BY THE AUTHOR IN EGYPT.

N.B. Tbe Arabic Words mentioued in this List are g;iven as they
appeared to be pronouuced, iu English characters ; and of course, therefore,
adapted to English j)i()iiuuciation.

The Number of Tales amounts to 172; but one tale is supposed to
occupy many nights in the recital, so that the whole number is divided into
" One Thousand and One Alights." It rarely happens that any two copies
of the manuscript resemble each other. The title of ''^ Alf Leelu o Lila"
is bestowed upon any collection of Eastern Tales divided into the same
number of parts. 'I'he compilation depends upon the taste, thecaprice,
and the opportunities of the scribe, or the commands of his employer.
Certain popular stories are common to almost all copies of the Arabian
Nights, but almost every selection contains some tales which are not found
in any other. Much depends upon the locality of the scribe. The
popular stories of Egypt will be found to differ materially from those of
Constantinople. A nephew of the late IVortley Montague, living in Rosetta,
had a copy of the Arabian Nights; and, upon comparing the two
manuscripts, it appeared that out of the 172 tales, here enumerated, only
37 were found in his manuscript. In order to mark, therefore, the stories
which were common to the two manuscripts, an asterisk has been prefixed
to the 37 tales which appeared iu both copies.

1. 1. HE Bull and the Ass.

2. The Merchant and the Hobgoblin.

3. The Man and the Antelope.

4. The Merchant and two Dogs.

5. The Old Man and the Mule.
*6. The History of the Hunters,

7, -J Tbe History of King Yoonan^ and the Philosopher

8. / Dooban.

APPENDIX, N° rv. 447

*9. History of King Sinbad and Elbaz.
*10. History of the Porter.

*11. History of Karanduli.

12. Story of the Mirror.

13. Story of the three Apples.

*I4. Of Shemseddin Mohammed and his Brother Nooreddin.
*15. Of the Taylor, Little Hunchback, the Jew, and the
Christian.

16. The History of Nooreddin Ali.

17. Ditto of Ghanem Ayoob, &c.

*18. The History of King Omar, el-noman, and his Children.
— (This Tale is extremely long, and occupies much of
the manuscript.)
*ig. Of the Lover and the Beloved.

20. Story of the Peacock, the Goose, the Ass, the Horse, &c.

21. Of the Pious Man.

22. Of the Pious Shepherd.

23. Of the Bird and the Turtle.

24. Of the Fox, the Hawk, kc.

25. Of the Lord of the Beasts.
*26. Of the Mouse and the Partridge.

27. Of the Raven and the Cat.

28. Of the Raven, the Fox, the Mouse, the Flea, &c. &-c. \

29. Story of the Thief.

* 30. Of Aul Hassan, and the Slave Shemso'd-dehr.
*3l. Of Kararo'z-zaman, &:c.
32. Of Naam and Nameto la.
*33. Of Aladin Aboo Shamat.
*34. Of Hatim Tai.

35. Story of Maan ibn Zaida. -.

36. History of the Town Lebta.

37. Story of Hassan Abdulmelic.

38. Of Ibrahim Elmehdi, Brother of Haroon al Rasheed.
*3g. History of the famous Garden Irem (Paradise).

448 APPENDIX, N° IV.

40. Of Isaac of Mossul.

41. Of Hashash.

42. Of Mohammed ibn Ali.

43. Of Ali the Persian.

44. History of Rasheed and his Judge.

45. Of Khahdibii Abdullah.

46. Of Jafaar the Barmaki (or Bermccide).

47. Of Abo Mohammed Kuslan.

48. Of Haroon al Rasheed, and Sala.

49. History of Mamoon.

50. Of Ali Shar and the Slave Zoomrood.

51. Of the Lady Bedoor {literally, Mrs. Moon-face) and

Mr. Victorious.

52. Of Mamoon, and Mohammed of Bassora.

53. Of Haroon al Rasheed, and his Slave.

54. Of the Merchant in Debt.

55. Of Husam-ed-deer, the Governor of Alexandria.

56. Of King Nassir, and his three Children, — (he Governor

of Cairo, the Governor of Bulac, and the Governor of
old CaiVo.
57' History of the Banker and the Thief.

58. Of Aladin, Governor of Constantinople (Koos).

59. Of Mamoon and Ibrahim.

60. Of a certain King.

61. Of a Pious Man

62. Of Abul Hassan Ez-ziyadi.

63. Of a Merchant.

64. Of a Man of Bagdad.

65. Of Motawakkil.

*66. Of Wardan, in the time of Hakim Beemri'llah. (N. B. He
built the Mosque in going from Cairo to Heliopolis).

67. Of a Slave and an Ape.
*68. Story of the Horse of Ebony.
*6q. Of Insilwujood.

70. Of Abro Nawas.

APPF-XDix, X" n. 449

71. Of an innabitant of Bassora.

72. History of a Man of the Tribe of Arabs of Beni Adhra.

73. Hiscory of Bedreddin, Visir of Yemen.

74. Of a Boy and a Girl.

75. OfMultaneis.

76. Of Haroon al Rasheed and the Lady Zobei'da.

77. Of Mosab ibni Zobeir.

78. Of the Black Father.

79. Of Haroon al Rasheed.

80. Story of an Ass Keeper.

81. Of Haroon al Rasheed and Eboo Yussuf.

82. OfH-kim, Builder of the Mosque.

83. Of Melikel Horrais.

84. Of a Gilder, and his Wife.

85. Of Khosrow Brweez, &c.

86. Of Yahya, &c. the Barmakide.

87. Of Musa, &c.

88. Of Said, &c.

89. Of the Whore and the Good Woman.

90. Of Rasheed, and Jaafer his favourite.

91. Of Sherif Hussein.

92. Of Mamoon, Son of Haroon al Rasheed.

93. Of the repenting Thief.

94. Of Haroon al Rasheed.
Q5. Of a Divine, &c.

96. Another Story of a Divine.
gj. The Story of the Neighbours.
98. Of Kings.
gg. Of Abdoo Rahman.

100. Of Hind, daughter of Nomoon.

101. Of Dabal.

102. Of Isaac, Son of Abraham.

103. Of a Boy and a Girl.

104. Story of Kasim ibni Adi.

105. Of Abul Abass.

450 APPENDIX, N» IV.

106. Of Ebubeker Ben Mohammed.

107. Of Aboo Isa.

108. OfEmeen, brother of Mamoon.

109. Of Six Scheiks of Bagdad.

110. Of an Old Woman.

111. Ofa Wild Girl.

1 12. Of Hassan Eljowheri of Bagdad.

113. Of certain Kings.

1 1 4. Of a King of Israel.

115. Of Alexander.

116. Of King Nooshirvan.

117. Ofa Judge and his Wife.

118. Of an Emir.

119. Of Malek Ibni dinar.

120. Ofa Devout Man of the Children of Israel.

121. Of Hejae ibni Yussuf.

122. Ofa Blacksmith.

123. Ofa Devout Man.

124. Of Omar Ibnil chatab.

125. Of Ibrahim Elkhawas.
] 26. Of a Prophet.

127. Ofa Pious Man.

128. Of a Man of the Children of Israel.

129. Of Abul Hassan Duraje.

130. Of the Queen of the Serpents.
*131. Of the Philosopher Daniel.
*132. OfBelukia.

*133. The Travels of Sinbad — certain seven voyages, &c.

134. Of the Town of Copper.

135. Of the Seven Vezirs, the Slave, and the King's Son.
*136. Story of Judar.

137. The Wonderful History.

138. Of Abdullah Ibni Moammer.

139. Of Hind Ibni Nooman.

140. Of Khazime Immi Basher,

APPENDIX, N" IV. 451

141. Of Jonas the Secretary.

142. Of Haroon al Rasheed.

143. Of ditto.

144. Of Eboo Isaac Ibrahim.

145. Of Haroon al Rasheed, Misroor, and the Poet.

146. Of the CaHph Moawia.

147. Of Haroon al Rasheed.

148. Of Isaac Ibni Ibrahim.

149. Of Ebwi Amer.

*150. Of Ahmed Ezenef, &c. and the old Female Pimp.

151. Of the Three Brothers.

152. Of Erdeshir, and Hayat, of Julnar ElBaharia.

153. Of Mahomet, &c.
*154. Ditto.

*155. Story of Seifo'lmolook.
*156. Of Hassan, &c.
*157. Of Caliph the Hunter.
*158. Of Mesroor and his Mistress.

159. Of Nooreddin and Mary.

160. Of a Bedouin and a Frank.

161. Of a Man of Bagdad, and his Female Slave.

162. Of a King, his Son, and the Vizir Shemas.
*163. Of a Merchant and the Thieves.

*l64. Of Aboosai'r and Abookai'r.

*165. Abdullah El Berri and Abdullah El Bahri.

*l66. Of Haroon al Rasheed.

167. Of the Merchant Abul Hassan al Omani.

168. Of Ibnil Khateeb.

169. Of Motedid Billah.
*170. Of Kamar-ez-Zeman.
*171. Of Abdul'ah Ibni Fasil.
*172. The Story ofMaroof

452 appi:ndix, n" v.

No. V.

Owing to some unaccountable oversight, the
List of Plants collected in the Island of
Rhodes, has been omitted in every preceding-
Edition of this work. It may be hereafter in-
serted in p. 278. of this Volume, as a Note.
We found, upon this island, a species of Snap^
dragon, the Linaria latifoUa triphylla sicula of
JBoccones Icones et Descriptiones Rariorum Planta-
rum, p. 45. tab. 22. taken by Linnceus for a
variety of the Antirrhinum triphyllum (Linn.) of
three-leaved Spanish Snap-dragon, described and
figured by Clusius, and more recently by the
late Professor Cavanilles, in his Icones Planta-
rum; but from which, however, it is very dis-
tinct; in the leaves being of an inversely ovate
form, and broader in proportion to their length,
than in that species, where they are also pubes-
cent ; whereas here they are always glaucous
and naked, with the stems and calyxes also
smooth, and the plant generally more spreading

APPENDIX, N" V. 453

and branched from the root. We have called it
Antirrhinum neglectum.

Antirrhinum glabrum, foliis ternis obovatis flaucis , spicis termi-
nalibus oblonjo-ovatis ovatisve ; calcaribus corolli brevioribus,
subulatis.

A. triphyllum. Lin. Hort. Cliff'.

Linaria latifolia triphylla sicula. Bocc, Ic. supra citata.

Among the other plants, of which we col-
lected specimens in Rhodes, were the following:

Ivy-leaved Snap-dragon AntirrJunum Cymhalariay Lin.

Cretan Viper's-bugloss Echium Creticum, Lin.

Purple Grape-Hyacinth Hyacinthus comosus, Lin.

Flat-podded Medic Afedicago orbicularis, Lin.

Andalusian Milk-vetch Astragalus Boeticus, l-in.

Wave-leaved Bugloss Anchusa undulata, Lin.

Wave-leaved Dyers' Weed Reseda undata, Lin.

Silvery Knot-grass . lllecehrum Paronychia, Lin.

Prickly-seeded Dock Rumex aculeatus, Lin.

Buckshorn Plantain Plantago Coronopiis, Lin.

Bird's-foot Lotus ornithopodioidcs, Lin.

Balearic Nettle Urtica Balearica, Lin.

Horned Fenugreek Trigonella corniculata, Lin.

Mongrel Vetch Vicia Hyhrida, Lin.

Field Speedwell l^eronica agrestis, Lin.

Hundred-leaved Rose Rosa Centifolia, Lin.

Golden Henbane Hyoscyamus aureus, Lin.

Cretan Anacyclus Anacyclus Creticus, Lin.

Four-leaved Polycarpon Polycarpon tetraphyllum,\An.

END OF VOLUME THE THIRD.

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