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A TRIP

-:- ON THE -:-

WEST iRIVEIR.

NEW

GOING

(and) COMING.

By R. D. THOMAS.

1903

THE CHINA BAPTIST PUBLICATION SOCIETY,
CANTON, CHINA.

PREFACE.

When describing the industries and particulars of certain
towns or relating some legend connected with various scenes
on the journey up and down the West River, I have often
been asked by numerous passengers and friends to put the
information conveyed to them into print. With diffidence
I now place the following pages before the public with one
hope, that it may induce many to come and see this mag-
nificent and important waterway. The Sai Kong is the third
largest river in the Empire and second only to the
Yangtse in importance. This magnificent trade route was
kept strictly closed to foreign traffic by the Chinese Govern-
ment until the 6th June, 1897.

Canton, August, 1903. R. D. T.

20051 14

A TRIP UP THE WEST RIVER

-:- FROM -:-

CANTON TO WDCHOW

-:- AND RETURN. -:-

To make this most enjoyable trip we leave
Hongkong by one of the palatial river steam-
ers of the Hongkong, Canton and Macao
Steamboat Co. They start from a fine wharf
on the Praya, about a five minutes journey in
a jinrickshaw, to the West of the Hongkong
Hotel. The steamer leaving (Saturday ex-
cepted) at half past five in the afternoon should
be selected ; she reaches Canton about six
o'clock the next morning.

We find it well worth while to be up and
dressed before the steamer reaches Canton, as
it is a really marvellous sight, to watch the
vessel threading her way through the maze of
launches, passenger-boats, junks, sampans,
etc., which cover the ri^er for some distance
before the vessel reaches her wharf.

After arriving we have a cup of coffee and
something to eat, as we shall not have break-
fast until nine o'clock.

Canton.

Note.

Having had a good look at the native pas-
sengers crowding into the sampans alongside,
we pack up our bags and engage a sampan to
take us across to the West River steamer, ly-
ing some three hundred yards away, off the
foreign concession of Shameen.

Steamers. These steamers are built especially for the

trade. They are large stern-wheel or twin
screw steamers and draw only about three
feet nine inches of water. They have nice large
airy cabins and are lighted throughout with
electricity. They are capable of carrying ten
saloon passengers and about six hundred
Chinese. The latter are all kept strictly to
their own part of the vessel.

Start. As the clock strikes eight the whistle blows

three times, the order is given to " Let go,"
and we are away on our voyage. Going down
the Front Reach we pass the steamer that
brought us to Canton.

Flower-Boats. Immediately beyond are the flower-boats
with their blackwood tables and stools in-
laid with mother-of-pearl. They look very gor-
geous when visited at night with their myriad
lamps alight and the many mirrors casting
their reflections back and forth, but now they
appear very shady and disreputable in the
bright sunlight.

Cathedral. The magnificent building, the French Ro-

man Catholic Cathedral, rearing its twin

spires far above all the surrounding houses
next draws our attention.

This building stands on the site where Commissioner
Commissioner Yeh's Yamun formerly stood. Yeh.

He was the notorious official sent down from
Peking with extraordinary powers to drive
away the English and French when we
jointly attacked and captured Canton in 1857.
He was eventually captured by the Allies and
sent to Calcutta as a prisoner where he re-
mained until the time of his death.

Our attention is now drawn to all those Pawnshops.
large square towers not at all unlike forts.
These we are told are pawnshops or, as they
should more properly be called, the banks or
safe deposits of South China. Pawning is
done there, but their chief use is for stor-
ing valuables, also unseasonable silks and
furs for safe keeping, fires and robbery being
very prevalent in all Chinese cities. These
buildings have no windows, only small slits in
the walls something like rifle-ports; they are
very substantially built and are almost fire and
burglar proof from the outside. Many of them
have large jars full of vitriol on the roof which
the keepers throw down on the robbers when
the buildings are attacked. Robbers have been
known to set fire to the neighboring houses in
the hope of the fire spreading to a pawnshop,
but in almost every case the pawnshop has es-

caped, whilst the houses have all been burnt
to the ground.

Dutch Folly. Now we are passing Dutch Folly, so called
because of the conduct of the Dutch traders.
In the early days they obtained permission
to erect a hospital on the island for sick sailors;
they landed a quantity of medical comforts in
barrels and cases; one of the barrels burst open
and a choice assortment of arms and ammuni-
tion fell out. The Chinese looking on very
wisely observed, " What fools the Dutch must
be to attempt curing the sick with powder and
bullets." The Chinese name is Hoi Chu Pau
Toi (Sea Pearl Fort). It is a small island
and group of rocks standing in the middle of
the river. On the island is a very picturesque
building, gaily decorated with flags and pro-
tected by old-fashioned, muzzle-loading can-
non, the headquarters of the river police force.

Native Next we come to a number of large j unks

Shipping. engaged in the trade between this and Hong-
kong, Macao, Sui Tong and other places,
many of them loaded nearly halfway up the
mast.

Electric Liglit. A large smoke stack and foreign building
looks rather incongruous amidst the surround-
ing houses ; we are told it is the electric light
station which lights up the foreign settlement
and many of the yamuns and large houses in
the native city.

Another smoke stack away far back in the Mint.

city belongs to the mint. This is a Chinese
Government concern with a British expert at
the head of affairs who has spent almost a
lifetime with them.

By the way, a word about money befjre Money.

we go any farther. The principal output of
the mint is subsidiary coinage, a few dollars
and a fair amount of copper cents. The
Chinese at a little distance from Canton eagerly
take the last mentioned coin, in fact it is some-
times at a premium of 10 %. They also like
the 20 cent pieces, but when it comes to the
10 cent pieces they often refuse to take them.
They say, "We do not want the little dragon;"
give us " The devil's head money," meaning
a Hongkong ten cent piece, so called because
it has the King or Queen's head impressed
thereon.

All the gun-boats belonging to the Canton Gun-boats,
squadron anchor in this reach ; they are all
small vessels and are only intended for putting
down smuggling and piracy on the rivers and
close round the coast.

The right bank is now one mass of Chinese Ship-building.
ship building yards with many launches lying
here undergoing repairs, whilst others are to
be seen in various stages of construction.

Just below the city on the left bank is a Lepers.

large leper village. All native craft passing

through or entering Canton have to pay a
" Leper toll." If this is paid as soon as the
vessel reaches the port the head leper gives a
pass which franks the ship right through ;
without this, any of the numerous lepers are
able to demand a fee, which has to be paid,
otherwise the ship would be surrounded by
these people and all work brought to a stand-
still.

Importation We are now approaching a very large fleet

of Salt. of fine sea-going junks all lying at anchor.

We notice that they are all armed with fairly
large cannon and enquire what trade they
engage in. We are told that they run down
empty to the salt pans on the south coast,
where they fill up with salt, which they bring
up to Canton, all of which is discharged here
and put into specially built boats which carry it
up into the interior, many of them taking from
two to six months on their voyage. Salt is
a government monopoly and is allowed to be
imported into China in junks only. No
steamer, native or foreign, or foreign sailing
vessel is allowed to bring salt to China. If such
were allowed a very large trade would no
doubt soon develop between Europe and
China. In the interior salt is almost a luxury,
as there is a duty to be paid at every barrier
that it passes in transit.

Earner. About twenty minutes to nine we keep

close over to the right bank and pass between

two beacons placed about one hundred and fifty
feet apart. This is the only channel, as the
remainder of the river is obstructed by a
barrier of sand and stones purposely put there
to keep out hostile vessels in time of war.

On the shore there is a fine old nine-storied Inclined

pagoda which inclines considerably from the Pagoda.

perpendicular.

On the left bank about two hundred yards Temple.

below the barrier we see a small temple, with
a peculiar square tower ; this is where the
troops landed and marched into Canton, tak-
ing it in the rear 1857-8. The Chinese did
not at all like this and said that it was very
unfair and improper "to come in backside,"
as they had very few guns pointing that way.

We are now passing tremendous vegetable Vegetables,
fields many acres in extent with fruit trees all
along the banks and on any raised ground.
Perhaps it may interest you to know that
Canton supplies nearly all the vegetables for
the Hongkong market and that from fifty to
one hundred and fifty tons are sent down daily
by the river steamers alone.

About a mile and a half above Whampoa Pagodas.
we see another fine Pagoda on the right
bank. This pagoda is about two hundred
and sixty-six feet high and is also of nine
storirs. A little farther on we see a small
pagoda amidst some trees, and learn that it is

called a " pencil pagoda," so called because it
has been built by a successful student after his
examination for classical honours. Now many
students go and chin-chin (worship) there, be-
fore going in for an examination in the hope
of having the same " Good Joss " as the man
who erected it.

Theatrical* Whampoa is now in sight, but just before

paid for by we reach it we pass two small mud islands,
mutual one on either hand. These are cultivated by

labour. the people generally and the proceeds are

spent in supplying the villagers with a theat-
rical performance.

Wliampoa. Whampoa is the old treaty port and in for-

mer years from twenty to thirty sailing ves-
sels were often seen lying at anchor here.
When any of these vessels wanted to go into
Docking. dry-dock so that their bottoms could be

cleaned or repaired, a dock was cut in the
soft mud bank and the vessel floated in at
high water ; a coffer-dam was then built across
the entrance and the bulk of the water allowed
to drain out as the tide fell, and the water that
remained was taken out by means of Chinese
chain-trough pumps, which are to be seen
every day in use irrigating the fields.

There are two fine stone dry-docks here
now, these were built by the Hongkong and
Whampoa Dock Co. and afterwards sold to
the Chinese Government when ocean vessels
ceased coming up the river to load.

Above or to the west of the docks is the Torpedo

torpedo depot where you invariably see one Depot.

or more of the boats ashore undergoing re-
pairs and maybe a couple or so ready for
service.

The old British Consulate stands on a hill Consulate.
almost hidden by trees. It now belongs to the
Imperial Maritime Customs and is used as a
holiday resort or sanitarium.

We pass the Custom House about a quar- Customs.

ter past nine but do not stop as we have no
passengers to discharge or embark.

In the background we see a ship's mast and Naval and
ask what it is for. We are told that it belongs Military

to the naval and military school built by Chang College.

Chih Tung when he was the Viceroy of the
two Kwong, and that it is used to give stu-
dents practical training in seamanship.

The approach to Whampoa from the sea is Forts.

very well protected. All the hills on either
bank have forts built on the top and are armed
with heavy quick-firing guns. We now pass
through another barrier which is luckily
clear of junks, so that we do not have to
slacken our speed.

Away up the creek to the left is a temple Marco Polo.
dedicated to Marco Polo, the famous Italian
traveller, and supposed to be the first Euro-
pean to come to China. On the I3th day of
the second moon every year, thousands of peo-

pie go and worship there. According to the
Chinese idea that is the natal day of " Joss
Pau Low."

Rice. We are now passing through very flat

country all given over to the cultivation of
rice, having hills away in the distance. Here
you see rice not by the acre but by the
square mile.

Pagodas and About ten o'clock we are abreast of a very

City of fine pagoda built on a hill with a city of refuge

Refuge. built by the side of it. This is called the

Second Bar Pagoda. On the next hill is a

smaller pagoda which from its architecture

and situation among the trees makes a very

pretty picture.

Entrance to Continuing on for another hour, we arrive
ttte Delta. at Forbe's Point. This is as far as we go back
towards Hongkong. We are able to see the
steamers which left Canton with us at eight
o'clock away over the paddy fields down by
Tiger Island. We now turn sharp round to
the right, leaving the Chu Kong or Pearl
River behind us, and enter that wonderful
network of creeks, called the Delta, which
extends between the Chu Kong and the Sai
Kong or West River.

Stoppage at After going along the Sai Wan Channel for
a barrier. about three and a half miles we come to an-
other barrier of stones, but here there is
nothing to mark the channel. Suddenly we

hear the telegraph ring and the engines are
stopped. We notice several large junks
ahead, but the whole of the channel is clear
to the left. We naturally wonder if there is
an accident in the engine room and hope that
it will prove to be trifling, as we do not want
to return to Canton and miss this interesting
trip. After the lapse of a few minutes we
hear the telegraph ring again and the engines
commence to move. Making enquiries after-
wards, we are told that we were just at the
above mentioned barrier, and that the passage
through it is only about eighty feet wide. Our
vessel being a steamer, we had to wait until
the junks had passed through, as there was not
room enough for vessels to pass each other
just there.

On looking round we are able to count no
less than nine pagodas in sight at one time.
Surely the geomantic influence over this part
of the country is very great. One in partic-
ular, called the Tai Leung Pagoda, standing
on a hill some five hundred and sixty feet
high, draws our attention, and we hear that it
will be in sight for four hours or more.

About noon we see a town nestling away at
the foot of some hills, and it is from this
place, Sai Wan, that the channel takes its
name. There are two very fine old water

Numerous
Pagodas.

Sai Wan.

gates with buttresses on either side and can-
nons mounted thereon to protect the entrance.
This is a very wealthy place ; it has about a
dozen pawnshops, which are a sure sign of
wealth when seen in any town.

Bananas. All along this channel the banks are cov-

ered with banana palms, which serve to mark
off boundaries, and are at the same time a
source of income.

Duck farms. What is that moving mass on the shore ?
Ducks, I declare ! And that peculiar boat with
great overhanging sides, making her about
three times her proper size, is their home.
These boats, or movable duck farms, some-
times carry over three thousand birds, which
are kept until they are ready for the market.
They move about the river and put the ducks
ashore to feed at different places, thus secur-
ing fresh feeding ground whenever they wish.
The ducks are walked ashore every morning
and men are placed as sentinels at different
places to prevent them from straying. They
are so well trained that often the man has
only to call out if any begin to stray to make
them return. In the evening a bamboo gang-
way is put down and the ducks are called
somewhat after the style in which we coo
pigeons at home. They all make a rush to
get on board as soon as possible, because the

last half dozen or so get a thrashing for being
late. To see them reminds one of the crush
that ensues on a cry of fire being raised in a
theatre — scrambling up the gangway and
pushing each other off in their haste not to be
amongst the last. Care is taken always to
keep some of the old ducks on board when a
new lot is sent, so that they may teach the
youngsters.

About tiffin time we make a sharp right
angular turn to the south.

We have now reached the famous Canton Culture of the
silk district. But where are the mulberry mulberry

trees ? There are none in sight. Instead, leaf.

the country is covered as far as the eye can
see with small rich green shrubs. These, we
are told, are all mulberry shoots. In this
part of the world it seems that better results
are obtained by allowing the mulberry to
shoot up only in slender sticks, which rarely
exceed seven feet in height. Therefore, as soon
as the last crop of silk is spun, which takes
place about the middle of November, labor-
ers at once cut down all the shrubs close to
the ground, being careful not to damage the
roots, and bind the sticks into bundles which
are used as fuel. After this is finished a
three-inch layer of river mud, taken from the
banks at low water, is spread over the roots

and adjacent soil. This alluvial soil is said to
be one of the best fertilizers that it is possible
to procure. The young shoots come up
during the month of February, and at that
time the old stumps are literally covered with
fruit which, however, is rather poor and has
a most insipid flavor, nothing like the lus-
cious fruit we have in the old country. The
land on which the mulberry is grown has
numerous irrigation ditches running through
it, and owing to the accumulated layers of
river mud is slightly higher than the adjacent
rice fields. Large ponds are also dug, in
which fish are reared. This enables the mul-
berry roots to obtain plenty of moisture with-
out actually soaking in the water. All people
growing mulberry trees are not necessarily
silk-worm farmers. In many instances they
cultivate the shrub only to sell the leaves,
which they take to various market places
where the rearers and breeders of silk-worms
go and purchase them.

Silk crops. In this district there are seven crops of silk

every year. The first of these commences in
April, and the last is during the latter part of
October and beginning of November.

Rearing Silk-worms are hatched out of small, pale-

silk-worms. grey eggs, about the size of a grain of mustard

seed. These eggs are usually affixed to large

sheets of coarse paper. When the farmer
wishes to hatch them out he takes as many as
he requires for the crop and pours warm wa-
ter over them, thus heating them simultane-
ously, causing all the worms to be hatched
together ; otherwise he would lose a great
deal of money. When the worm first appears
it is black in color and about a sixteenth of
an inch long with the breadth of a piece of
sewing thread. The men in charge of these
young worms cut up the mulberry leaves as
fine as tobacco before giving them to these
tiny creatures, and renew the supply at least
every hour. As they grow the leaves are
given to them in larger pieces, and they are
fed less often but in larger quantities. The
silk-worm takes about twenty-eight days to
develop fully. During this time it sleeps
four times, for a period of from twenty-four to
forty-eight hours each time. These sleeps
usually occur on the fourth or fifth day, ninth
or tenth, fifteenth or sixteenth, and the last
about the twenty-second day. During each
of these periods of sleep it casts its skin ; and
many of the worms die in consequence of be-
ing unable to free themselves from their old
skins. When they are fully grown they are
of a whitish yellow color, about two inches
long and as thick as a lead pencil. They are

then placed on a frame, the interior of which
is filled with twisted bamboo, and here they
spin the silk from their mouths until they
have completely enveloped themselves in a
cocoon. They then again shed their skin and
eventually turn into chrysalises. It takes
about six days for the worm to perform this
task. Now all the cocoons that are required
for silk are placed over a charcoal brazier to
kill the chrysalises, which would otherwise
shortly pierce the cocoon and spoil it. Wo-
men and young girls now take the cocoons
to wind off the silk ; before starting to do
which, they place the cocoons in boiling wa-
ter to moisten the gum, using' from six to
eighteen cocoons to the single thread, accord-
ing to the fineness of the silk required. The
cocoons that are left to continue the species
are kept in a dry place, and after about three
weeks the moths come out. They free them-
selves by first ejecting a fluid which dissolves
one end of the cocoon. The moths are fully
developed when they emerge. The males and
females are put together for one day, after
which the males are removed, and the females
then commence to lay their eggs on sheets
of coarse paper placed there for that purpose.
These pieces of paper are then taken away,
rolled up, and kept in a cool place until re-
quired for the next year's crop.

Just as we finish tiffin the ship makes an- Westward.
other sharp turn, this time to the west again.
We now pass through a very narrow channel .
about one hundred and twenty yards wide.
Both banks are swarming with native children
who thoroughly enjoy yelling at us with all
their might.

Our first stopping place, Yung Ki, is Yung Ki.

reached about a quarter past two. This is a
very busy and important town. Two steam
silk-filatures have been erected here and they
are kept busy all the time.

Two miles farther on is Kwai Chow ; but Kwai Choiv.
although a larger and even more important
place than Yung Ki we do not stop, as it
stands somewhat back from the river. Here
is to be seen a little Roman Catholic Church
built after the same style as the Canton Ca-
thedral.

The creek is now very tortuous ; in fact, Winding

so much so that we see the Tai Leung Pagoda about.

in different places all round the ship before
we finally lose sight of it about three o'clock.

Now we are approaching Mah Ning, an- Mah Ning.
other town of some importance, standing at
the foot of some rather fine hills. We stop
here and embark a few passengers, who come
alongside in such a small, rickety boat that
we expect to see them all capsized into the

river as they cross the bow- wave of the
steamer.

Graves. All the hills we pass just now are simply

covered with graves ; in fact, there seems to
be no room for any more. According to the
Chinese idea, the ideal spot to be buried is on
the side of a hill facing running water. With
regard to the superstition attaching to the
importance of burying a parent in a congenial
spot, many of the native priests are able to
make a very fine thing out of the proceeds
obtained for locating propitious sites. For
instance, a family are unfortunate in business ;
they go and tell a priest about their misfor-
tunes; very likely he will say that one of
their relatives is not buried in a congenial
spot and that his spirit is unable to rest ;
therefore, it is roaming around and giving
them bad joss. After a little talk he will
most likely propose that another spot should
be chosen and offers to consult the gods with
regard to their wishes. The family agree to
this, the priest goes away and fixes on a new
site, for which an exorbitant price is often
asked by the owner. I have heard of a site
for which two thousand five hundred dollars
was paid. After all the preliminaries have
been arranged the coffin is taken up out of its
present resting place and once more buried in

the new grave with all due ceremony. For
this service the priest will probably receive a
very large sum of money. The trouble is
that sometimes the same ceremony has to be
repeated more than once.

We are now able to see the hills on the
other side of Sai Kong away in the distance,
and a half an hour later we see a tremendous
sheet of water ahead ; this is the river cross-
ing our track. Away down to the left is Ma-
cao, about forty-six miles distant, and also the
main entrance to the Sai Kong.

We keep close to the right hand shore and
pass round a small range of hills called Fist
Cliffs, passing between them and a small is-
land, Fa Chow (Flowery Island), to enable 'us
to call at Kum Chuk (Sweet Bamboo).

Almost immediately after rounding Fist
Cliffs we notice a very fine triple stone arch-
way, standing out by itself, enriched with
most elaborate carving. This we learn is called
a Pai Low or Memorial Arch and has been
erected to commemorate some deed which
has appealed to the Chinese notion of merit.
It may be to commemorate the intense filial
piety of a child who has given a piece of its
own flesh to save a parent's life, or the con-
stancy of a widow or widower who, having
lost early in life his or her mate, has contin-
ued faithful to the memory of the dear de-

VVest River.

Fist Cliffs.

Memorial
Arch.

parted. Or the inscription may tell of a
maiden, whose betrothed died before they
were married, and who came to fill her position
as daughter-in-law in his parents' house,
continuing there in virgin widowhood until the
time of her death. Many of these solid
marks of popular approbation commemorate
suicides ; as for instance when a woman pre-
fers death to dishonor, or when a betrothed
maiden resolves to follow her bridegroom-
elect into the spirit world.

Rapids. Before arriving at the Custom's station we

pass the Kum Chuk rapids ; here we see the
water tearing down-hill at a frightful rate,
breaking wildly over the rocks that obstruct
its passage, and making indeed a very fine
sight. These rapids are caused by the water
falling in the Delta much faster than it is able
to flow in from the West River through this
narrow creek. Every native craft passing
over these rapids " chin-chins ;" that is, makes
a propitiatory offering to the particular devil
who is supposed to reside here. Launches
blow their whistles three times ; other craft
offer burning paper, letters, etc.

Kum Ckuk. This is a " port of call," and steamers are
allowed to load and discharge both passen-
gers and cargo at such places. About half-
past four we anchor off the Custom House
and a smart gig comes across to the steamer
with a European officer in charge and some

native watchers to search the Chinese pas-
sengers, and also to see that no cargo is taken
on board unless the duty has been paid on it.
There being no cargo and only about thirty
passengers, we remain here only about a
quarter of an hour and then proceed

The scenery now is very different to what Scenery,

we have been passing all day. Heretofore it
has been nearly all flat country, with only an
occasional hill here and there in the distance.
Now we have nice plains with hills galore
and fine ranges of mountains away in the
background.

About twenty minutes after leaving Kum Kan Kong.
Chuk we stop at Kau Kong (Nine Streams) to
embark a few more passengers This is a
very wealthy place and many merchants who
have made their fortunes in America or Aus-
tralia have retired and live here. It stretches
along the river bank for three or four miles.

One of the peculiar things that now draw Literary

our attention is the number of poles, some- Poles,

thing like ships' masts with square platforms
on them, standing in front of the larger build-
ings, always in pairs. These we learn are
what might be called "literary poles" and
show the classical degree obtained by some
member of the family. They are only al-
lowed to be erected outside the ancestral hall
belonging to ths family and not outside one's
own private house. They are never renewed

after once they have been erected, but are al-
lowed to decay and fall down unless some
other member of the family passes the requi-
site degree, when new poles are erected in his
honour.

Ku Van. A. The examination which entitles a man

to erect these poles is held triennially in all
the provincial cities throughout the Empire,
on the ninth, twelfth and fifteenth days of the
eighth month, and is called the Ku Yan (Pro-
moted Men) ; it is the equivalent to our M. A.
In Canton from twelve to fourteen thousand
Sau Tsoi or B. A. enter for this examination
every time it is held, and the number passing
rarely exceeds one hundred and twenty.
Throughout the whole Empire there are sup-
posed to be from thirteen to fourteen hundred
who pass this examination every three years.

Tsun Szt>. B. After passing the former examination

a man may enter for the Tsun Sze (Entered
Scholars), LL D. For this he must go up
to Peking and it is conferred triennially upon
the successful licentiates, only the Ku Yan
being eligible as candidates. It invariably
takes place on the sixth day of the third
month of the following year, and is presided
over by a high Minister of State, one of the
Royal Princes, and three other examiners.
It is estimated that about two hundred pass
each time. The Doctors are introduced to
the Emperor and do him reverence, the three

highest receiving rewards from him. The
successful candidates do not return to their
homes, but remain at Peking in order to at-
tend the examination for the fourth degree
which is held shortly afterwards.

C. The right to erect these poles belongs Hon Luni.
only to the men who have passed the fourth
and highest degree, called Hon Lum (Forest
of Pencils.) This is more an office than a de-
gree, as those who attain it are admitted mem-
bers of the Hon Lum College and receive sal-
aries. They also become either members of
the Inner Council, obtain situations on the
Seven Boards or as District Rulers, and are
deputed to act as Chancellors and Examiners
in the various Provinces. The triennial ex-
amination for this degree is conducted in the
Imperial Palace at Peking, in the presence of
the Emperor himself. The number passing
this examination is variously stated to be
from fourteen to forty.

The highest graduate on the list is called Chang Yuen.
Chong Yuen (or Senior Wrangler) and is re-
garded as the greatest scholar of the whole
world. His fame spreads throughout the
Empire, and many people in all classes of so-
ciety make it a point of becoming acquainted
with the particulars of his early training and
parentage. The newly made Hon Lum are
entertained at dinner by the Emperor, which
is regarded as a very great honour to learn-

ing. One peculiarity about the man who at-
tains the much coveted title of Chong Yuen
is that he is invariably a millionaire or else a
Manchu.

Qualifying Before a man is allowed to enter for any of

Examina- the above degrees he must first have passed a
tions. series of examinations which are held in all

the principal district cities in the various
provinces twice during every three years.
These are usually four in number and are
conducted by the districtjfrulers, the prefects,
and the literary chancellor. Before going up
for examination the candidates repair to their
prefectural cities and deposit a document
signed by two or more graduates, stating that
they are freeborn subjects of the realm and
that they are not the children of boatmen,
play-actors, policemen, pawn-brokers, etc.,
who are prohibited from entering for any ex-
amination.

Sau Tsoi. If the candidate passes all these examina-

tions he is given the degree of Sau Tsoi
(Flowering Talent;. This is usually known
as the B. A. degree. The number entering
for this degree is very large, many thousands
presenting themselves every time, and the
number passing is reckoned to be less than
one per cent., which explains how one may
see men of seventy years of age and upwards
still trying to matriculate. Cases have been
known where father, son, and grandson have

been sitting for the same degree together.

A and B are painted a plain red ; C is also
red ground work with wreaths of flowers
twining their way right up to th'j top.

With regard to the gourd-shaped ornaments
with which the tops of the poles are deco-
rated, if the owner has no official rank they
are white ; if he is a civil official they are red ;
while, should he hold military rank, they
would be blue.

On the west bank a little way above Kau
Kong we notice a small town standing by it-
self on a plain, with high hills away at the
back. This is Ku Lo, and a very fine quality
of tea is grown on these hills which is known
as Ku Lo tea, large quantities of which are
sent down to Macao and there blended before
being exported to Europe and America.

Continuing up the river, which is over a
mile wide, we pass the ruins of what had once
been a fine pagoda, only five stories of which
are now standing.

About a quarter past six we are abreast of
Tit Ngau Kok (Iron Buffalo Corner). The
country we have just passed, for several miles,
is below the level of the river, and formerly
was flooded every time the freshets came
down during the summer months. To obvi-
ate this a large and strong embankment was
built many miles in length. After it was fin-

Colour of
Poles.

Mast-head
Ornaments.

Ku Lo.

Ruins.

Tit Ngau
Kok.

Ted Ping
Chow.

Tai Ping.
Native Salt-
boats held up.

ished the people sent to Fat Shan, " The Bir-
mingham of South China," and obtained two
life-sized buffalo calves cast of iron. These
two calves were then placed on this corner
with all due ceremony, consisting of music,
feasting, crackers, theatricals, etc. Since
which time the country behind has never been
flooded ; the embankment has nothing
whatever to do with this and all the kudos is
o-iven to the efficiency of the iron buffaloes.

o *

On the other bank, situated on a small hill,
stands the Sam Chow pagoda which is visible
for many miles.

A large mud island situated in the middle of
the river and given over wholly to the culti-
vation of sugar cane is passed on our left hand
A large shallow patch running well out into
the river off the upper end causes us to give
it a wide berth to avoid running aground.

Opposite on the right hand is a small vil-
lage called Tai Ping, and just above it in 1899
twenty-one large salt-boats, each with a crew
of at least thirty men — say about six hundred
and fifty men altogether — were held up by
so-called pirates who refused to allow them
to pass a given point unless they paid a large
tribute. The captain of H. M. S. " Sandpiper"
hearing about it, proceeded at once to the
spot, but by the time he arrived the so-called

pirates had decamped to a healthier atmos-
phere than that in close proximity to a British
gunboat. Although the pirates had disap-
peared the salt-boats were afraid to move and
several native gunboats and launches were de-
tained to tow and escort them past the spot
indicated.

A small conical , rocky islet, standing alone Kuin Cliaw.
but connected by a reef of rocks with the
west shore, on which stands the Kum Chow
pagoda, is sighted just before dark. This pa-
goda is built of stone and is very ancient.
Most pagodas are built of soft native blue
bricks and unless constantly repaired soon
crumble away. The country is now becom-
ing decidedly more hilly and mountains are
seen in every direction except to the south.

Shortly after dinner we make the entrance Sam S/nti.
to the treaty port of Sam Shui (Three Waters)
We now leave the West River by turning
sharply in to the right. This entrance is very
narrow with steep hills on the right hand
which throw their shadows right across to the
other shore. This must be a very difficult
place to enter on a dark night and we wonder
even now how the men on the bridge are able
to see their way. Ten minutes later we cross
the mouth of the Pak Kong (North River).
This we hear is a very shallow river and, al-

though of considerable length, is practically
unnavigable for about nine months every year.
Gradually bearing away to the right, we very
soon let go the anchor and make fast to the
Company's pontoon. Here we find that there
is some cargo to come on board which will
detain us for about two hours.

Provision The vessel is by this time surrounded with

Boats. small boats, selling food of almost every de-

scription— dried rats, ten-year-old ducks' eggs,
ginger, cakes, melon-seed, wine, fruit, and hot
soup. The latter is sold by itself, boats sell-
ing it having nothing else on board, as it en-
tails having such a lot of impedimenta. First
there is a fire on which is boiling a jar full of
rice and water. Then on little dishes ranged

along one side of the boat are various delica-
cies, besides which there are the bowls
in which the soup is served. A man
orders a bowl of soup : first the salesman dips
the bowl in the river to wash it; then he
takes a little chopped onion, a dried shrimp
or two, a few pieces of almond, also a little
finely chopped carrot, turnip and ginger ; to
this is added a little fresh fish. All these
things are raw. The bowl is then filled up
with the boiling rice water and a few drops of
soy, with a sprinkle of salt added to bring out
the flavour. This seems to be a favourite
dish, as we notice that a brisk trade is carried
on the whole time we remain here.

Sam Shui is a small walled city standing City and

about half a mile back from the river ; the Trade of

people are very poor, and there is no particu- Sam Sfmi.
lar industry carried on here. In fact, it would
be of very little importance at all but for its
position, standing as it does at the mouth of
the North River and j ust above the large and
important manufacturing town of Sai Nam.
A sand-bar stretching right across the river
about two miles below Sam Shui makes it im-
possible for any but the shallowest draft boats
to reach Sai Nam. Therefore all goods ex-
ported or imported either to Sai Nam or
places up the North River have to be trans-
shipped here, making this a fairly large port
of transshipment.

Although we have come a long way round Distance.

to reach this port, about ninety- seven miles,
we are only some twenty-three miles as the
crow flies from Canton.

Between half past ten and eleven, the cargo West River.
being all on board, the anchor is taken up and
we go out the same way we came in, and
continue our trip up the West River.
Directly opposite the entrance there is a
very fine range of hills looking very much
like the back of a gigantic crocodile. The
country to the right is somewhat flatter than
it has been and we learn that there is a vast
plain stretching between this and the North
River.

Shiu Hing Shortly before one o'clock the captain

Gorge. knocks at the door of our cabin and tells us

to come out on deck as we are just entering
the famous Shiu Hing Gorge The moon has
by this time set and all that we are able to
see is a dense black mass ahead, but we stand
here spellbound and amazed, wondering how
we are going to pass through; gradually we
see the hills reflected on either side by our
electric light and putting our heads out from
beneath the awning, we note that the sky is
visible only overhead ; after waiting about
ten minutes or so, we see a narrow stretch of
water between the hills right ahead, and learn
that the reason why we could see nothing
before was because there is a slight turn in
the gorge and until the other opening is
disclosed there is nothing to be seen but a
mighty blackness.

Having seen the ship safely through, we
return to bed and sleep until the steward
brings us coffee in the morning.

Expressions. On looking out of the cabin door we won-
der for a minute where we are, as the scenery
is so different to our expectations. An Amer-
ican says, " Well, I guess this beats the Hud-
son River, our show place." Our Continen-
tal friends remark that it reminds them of
"the Rhine and Switzerland." Whilst we
say, " Surely the lake district or the Scottish
moors, but with a little less vegetation."

About seven o'clock we stop at Luk To Luk To.

(Six Knives) to land a few passengers. This
is a market town of some importance, very
prettily situated, hills surrounding it on three
sides, with the river flowing in front.

Here one is struck with the wonderful col- Scenery.

ouring of the hills, a very bright red, shading
away to the palest pink or merging into a
rich yellow, whilst the vegetation on them
with its numerous shades of green make such
a picture as would be almost impossible to
portray. Five miles farther on we pass a
beautiful bamboo grove on our left, in which
pheasants and other game are to be found
during the winter months. Steaming along
through this beautiful scenery, with constant
changes as we open out every new reach, we
while away the time very pleasantly watching
this moving panorama.

About breakfast time we see a very fine Nine-storied
nine-storied pagoda on the river bank, with a Pagoda.

curious old metal ornament on the top that
has fallen over somewhat out of the perpen-
dicular. Small shrubs and plants are growing
on every projection, giving it a very quaint
appearance. This pagoda is placed in an ideal
geomantic spot, as it is by the side of running
water and facing running water, being exactly
opposite a small river that empties itself into

this one. These pagodas are built to propi-
tiate the " god of the wind " and the " god of
the water. Because of them, the Chinese say,
the winds will not be too violent and destroy
all the crops, etc., and the river will not rise
too high and sweep everything before it.
Immediately below the pagoda is a little joss-
house with Gothic windows, a thing very
rarely seen in these parts.

Tak Hing. Tak Hing Chow is now in sight. This is

by far the largest and most important city in
this part of the province. It became a walled
city in the reign of the Emperor Hung Mo,
some five hundred years ago, and many of
the gentry trace the coming of their ancestors
here back some two hundred years previous
to this, but they are unable to tell the reason
for the migration. During the Tai Ping Re-
bellion the place was occupied for about seven
months, but the occupation was little more
than the rule of a robber chief, judging from
present accounts. At present it is under the
control of an official called a Chow (this is a
grade just below that of Prefect) who is re-
sponsible for the good government of a dis-
trict within a radius of about thirty miles,
containing nearly one hundred thousand in-
habitants.

Wealth and Three large pawnshops which stand in the
Trade. city would indicate a supporting population of

something like twenty-five thousand, but there
are probably not more than half that number
residing in the city just now.

The country immediately adjacent to the
city is rather barren, but it is the shipping
point for a very large district.

The principal industries are silk, rice and
groundnut culture, some manufacturing of
matting (Chinese bed-mats), also bamboo hats
and baskets.

There are fifteen temples in the city, the Temples.

most interesting one being a Confucian temple
situated in the southeast corner. Five
thousand dollars have been subscribed to
repair it. Hard-wood pillars, which have
stood for three hundred years, are now being
replaced with soft China pine. In architectural
design these temples are exactly the same all
over the Empire ; the whole structure is
painted a dull red, the entrance having a centre
and two side gates. At either side of this
tnple gateway there is a granite slab bearing
this inscription: "All officials, civil or mili-
tary, must get off their horses." Upon entering
we see an artificial pond spanned by a pretty
little bridge of three arches ; at the end of
this courtyard there is a covered triple
gateway ; passing through this, one sees the
altar in honour of Confucius standing at the

opposite end of the quadrangle, suspended
above which is a large red tablet bearing the
name of the sage in large gilded characters.
Except in a few isolated cases no idols are to
be found in any of these temples.

New temple to A new Buddhist temple is projected and
be built to will soon be under way. It seems that an old

appease the temple formerly stood to the north of the
manes of a city. It was allowed to fall in ruins and the
lost idol. site is no longer visible. Some geomancer
discovered that the floods and crop failures of
last year, 1902, were due to the neglect of
the idol which formerly occupied the temple
and which has come back (it is claimed) to
the old site and manifests its presence in
various ways. Some people actually claim to
have seen it and declare that it assumes the
form of a woman. In the early spring,
thousands of dollars were spent in processions,
always headed by a dragon, in honour of the
idol. Villages and cities forty miles distant,
sent processions, and not infrequently these
processions would number over a thousand
people. The money for these processions
and some ten thousand taels to build the
temple was subscribed in times of unusual
scarcity, though part of it at least was given
under threats and through barefaced extor-
tion. Women went round to collect this
money; and they asked every man for a
certain sum based on what they knew the

individual to be worth. If their demand was
not complied with, they would refuse to take
anything at all and threatened to post the
family name all over the city walls as niggards
who refused to help towards the public weal.

Tigers are to be found in the hills around Tigers found
here. I quote the following stories which here.
are authentic:

Nearly two years ago some children watch-
ing buffalo half a mile to the north of the
city came and told their father that there was
a buffalo calf out in the grass that did not be-
long to them. He went to see and found a
tiger lying asleep in the grass. Quickly re-
turning, he called out all the neighbours that
had guns and a goodly crowd gathered round,
but none dared fire lest they should fail to
kill and be attacked. In the evening the tiger
awoke and took his departure in peace, none
daring to follow or hinder him.

A more successful hunt occurred in the
spring of 1903. About a mile from the river
on the south bank there lives a family of five
brothers whose father was killed years ago by
a tiger. After a very heavy rain these men
tracked a tiger to his lair in the mountains,
found him asleep, called in help until they
had, all told, some twenty guns. All then
crept up cautiously and noiselessly until with-

in thirty or forty feet and fired a volley. As
their guns were loaded with nails, slugs, small
stones, etc., they made some sixty holes in
his hide and fortunately killed him instantly.
He was a full-grown male and a fine specimen.
By means of a pit trap the same hunters
caught another male tiger which weighed
nearly four hundred pounds.

Tat Lik Shan. Two miles above Tak King we pass through
a very pretty little gorge and we see the
mountain Tai Lik Shan, about four thousand
feet high, away in the background, which is
by far the highest mountain in this district.

Vegetation. We notice large patches on the hillsides

under cultivation and learn that there is a va-
riety of sweet potato grown which requires
very little water, and is therefore a very prof-
itable thing to raise on what would otherwise
remain simply waste ground. The hills in
many places are fairly well covered with trees
which have been denuded of all their lower
branches, which are cut off as soon as they
are of any appreciable size and sold, there be-
ing a large demand for them as fuel for burn-
ing lime and bricks. These branches are tied
up in bundles and slid down the hillsides by
means of the shoots that we see running- down

the hills, many of them from the crest to the
water's edge. They are then put into boats

which, when fully loaded, present the appear-
ance of huge floating hay-stacks.

About noon we sight a most peculiar mon- Monk 's Head.
olith rising some fourteen hundred and ten
feet from the bed of the river, called by the
Chinese Wa Piu (Elegant Column), named on
the chart Fa Pew (Flowery Tablet) ; but more
commonly known as the Monk's Head. As
you approach, it presents the appearance of a
gigantic buddha with a spectral-looking face,
standing erect, gazing over the surrounding
country. When abreast of the rock its pro-
portions are very striking, and as you leave
it behind it assumes the appearance of a gi-
gantic crouched figure with the head lifted up.

Just before one o'clock we arrive at Do Do Shing.
Shing (Chief City). This is by far the largest
and most important town on the right bank of
the river. Here is held the principal cattle
market in this part of the province and large
herds that have been brought down from
Kwang Si for sale may be seen here during
the greater part of the year. A general mar-
ket is held here all the year round on the
fifth, tenth, fifteenth, twentieth, twenty-fifth
and thirtieth day of each moon, when people
gather from the surrounding villages to buy
or sell all manner of produce.

Every ten years a very large joss pidgin Pak Tai

and theatrical performance, in honour of the Festival.

god Pak Tai, is held here, which lasts for

three days and costs the people from fifteen to
twenty thousand dollars. This money is
raised by subscriptions during the intervals.
Theatres are built along the foreshore and
outside the principal temples, really wonder-
ful structures of .bamboo and matting, giving
the shore somewhat the appearance of a street
in Old London or Paris as seen at an exhi-
bition.

Pak Tai. Pak Tai, the god of the North, is regarded

by the Chinese as the most beneficent of dei-
ties, and his temples are generally crowded
with votaries. People about to embark in
trade seek his blessing, and if the business
should prove successful they present a tablet
on which are gilded characters expressing
their gratitude. Partners draw up a declara-
tion of their business at the close of each year.
This declaration is then taken to one of his
temples and read aloud ; afterwards it is burnt
so that it shall be conveyed to the god and
registered. Masters and servants ratify their
engagements there, and it is also used for
taking oaths and obligations. Especially if a
man is charged with theft and declares that
he is innocent, he is taken before the idol and
asked if he declare his innocence in its pres-
ence. If he does so, his accuser is generally
satisfied.

Crops on the All along the shelving banks where the
banks. river deposits a quantity of silt every time it

rises, we notice that the people have neatly
planted patches of vegetables and other crops
nearly ripe. It is to be hoped they will be
able to harvest them before the river rises, or
else their labor will all have been in vain.

The scenery along the reach above Do Scenery.

Shing is simply perfect. The hills on our left
are thickly covered with vegetation ; whilst
on the right the vivid colouring of the land-
slips, and the hills generally, is such that no
artist dare put on canvas.

Away ahead the river banks meet in such a Fong Omen.
manner as to make it appear a perfect lake,
and it is absolutely impossible to tell which
way the vessel is going to turn until we reach
Fong Chuen, a small walled city on our right,
and said to be one of the oldest walled towns
in the province. We do not stop here, as
permission has not been granted, although
the place seems to be quite an important little
town.

A small river, the Ho Yuen, flows into the Ho Yuen and
West River a few miles farther up. At some Buried Fort.
previous time there was a fairly large fort at
the mouth of this tributary, but now it has
quite disappeared and there only remain
some guns halfway down the bank with their
muzzles protruding, the remainder being bur-
ied under some thirty odd feet of soil.

We now enter the Wuchow reach. The Two Ptov-
river here is about three-quarters of a mile inces.

wide and has a fine sweep. About four o'clock
we pass the last salt barrier in the Kwang
Tung Province, and we then enter the Prov-
ince of Kwang Si.

Wuchow Peak. Looming up in the distance is to be seen
the Wuchow Peak, about fourteen hundred
feet high ; and to the right of it is to be seen
one of the cities of refuge that were built for
the women and children to retreat to during
the turbulent times in the olden days. These
places were much used all over the country
during the time of the Tai Ping rebellion.
Approaching A pagoda on the opposite side of the river
Wuchow. to Wuchow, " in which a light is kept burn-
ing, during the time of the triennial examina-
tions held in Peking, to give good joss to the
students from Kwang Si," now comes into
view, and shortly afterwards we see the Brit-
ish consulate and a large mission house, both
built on the top of a hill above the city.

Kai Lung A small rocky island, Kai Lung Chow

Chow. (Chicken Basket Island), with a joss-house on

the summit and connected by a sand bank
with a smaller rock, is passed just before
reaching the city. The Chinese say that a
farmer was crossing the river one day with a
boat load of chickens for the market. When
in the middle his boat was capsized and a
basket with a chicken inside drifted down
stream and sank to the bottom. Shortly af-
terwards this island appeared, and a small

joss-house was built thereon to appease the
manes of the lost chicken, which was one of
a peculiar breed that the Chinese use at fu-
neral ceremonies.

Certain of the gentry and scholars aver that
the island should be called Hai Lung Chow
(Bound Dragon Island). Their legend is as
follows : A dragon, thrusting its head through
the surface many years ago, the people quick-
ly bound it with chains, as for a dragon to
visit a city is the luckiest thing possible.
Whilst the dragon was bound, the men of
Kwang Si became very wealthy and passed all
the examinations for which they entered. Af-
terwards, when the dragon had disappeared, I
know not how, the people built a small tem-
ple on the summit of the island with the whole
of the west end open, so that all the wealth
flowing down the river from the interior of
the province should be caught there. The
people of Kwang Tung not liking this, dug a
subterranean passage at the back or east side
of the island to enable this wealth to flow
through to Canton. A long dispute then en-
sued between the people of the two provinces,
which was eventually brought to an end by
closing up the passage, as it was decided that
the island, being in Kwang Si, the natives of
that province had a perfect right to take what-

Another
legend.

ever measures they thought fit to conserve
their own wealth.

Wuch&w. The river here is about a mile and a quar-

ter wide, which, with the shipping and other
life, forms a very pretty picture. Wuchow is
well situated, standing as it does at the con-
fluence of the Fu Ho or Cassia River and the
West River, very much like the city of Han
Kow on the Yangtse, only that here there is
no large city on the other side. The city
wall runs up to the brow of a hill, and right
at the top is built the powder magazine. The
city presents a rather imposing aspect from
the river, and the banks are enlivened by the
host of native boats packed along the fore-
shore and up the Fu Ho.

Method of There is a peculiarly shaped boat here that

Evading the at once attracts attention. It has deep bulg-
Native ing sides with very narrow upper-works, and

Customs. when seen end on presents somewhat the ap-

pearance of a gigantic duck. They are built
in this manner to evade the customs, as when
loaded it is very difficult for the officers to as-
certain how much cargo there is on board.
This is of course well known, but it is winked
at and allows of a number of squeezes being
introduced on both sides.

Thrcugh the The city, which has a population of from

City. fifty to sixty thousand is fairly well built in

the business part and shows indications of

prosperity. The principal street has some
really fine shops and they seem well supplied
with both native and foreign goods.

At the principal landing place up the Fu Old Castings.
Ho there are two cast-iron pillars on either
shore which were formerly used to secure a
bridge of boats connecting both banks. From
the characters cast on the pillars they must be
over seven hundred years old.

Wuchow itself is a very old city, although Age of tJie
the present walls and temples do not show City.

signs of any very great age. The city is said
to have been erected about A. D. 590, and
tradition says that there was a city here long
before that, a little lower down the river, but
whether on the north or south shore is un-
certain.

During the Tai Ping rebellion the rebels The Tai Pings.
took Wuchow and governed it well for over
three years, but after their successes they got
out of hand and went down the West River
valley, a horde of savages, murdering man,
woman and child. No doubt that is why so
many of the terraced hills are lying unculti-
vated, as there are not enough people to tend
them.

Wuchow is subject to very high floods dur- Rise of Water
ing the summer months, when the river will during the
rise many feet above the banks. In 1902 Summer
there was a perpendicular rise of seventy- Freshets.

three feet. That is to say, in April the river
stood at two feet one inch below zero and in
July it was seventy-one feet above zero
Many of the houses were completely under
water, and the people were obliged to camp
out on the hills. In almost all the houses in
the lower part of the city the water was up to
the eaves and the inmates were living on the
roof, on which there is a large platform spe-
cially built that it may be ready when re-
quired.
Picturesque Immediately below the steamer wharf there

Old Gateway, is a temple of somewhat more pretentions to
architecture than the rest of these structures
here usually display. In front of it is a rather
striking triple gateway, and the stucco-work
with which it is covered is really very fine, a
photo of which well repays one for the trouble
of taking.

The Club. To-morrow being Sunday, we shall have

plenty of time to do the sights ; we therefore
go round to the club and spend a very jolly
evening with the foreign community. Here
they have a first-class billiard table and every-
thing in the way of drinks that man could

desire.

•

A Morning We leave the ship at half-past six on Sun-

Walk. day morning and climb to the top of Wuchow

Peak before the sun becomes too powerful.

It is a most delightful walk in the early morn-

ing and there is a road leading right up to
the summit. About one hundred yards be-
fore we arrive there we pass two very fine
graves, said to contain the remains of a man-
darin and his wife. The view obtained from
here is very fine indeed, giving one a good
idea of the surrounding country, which amply
repays us for the climb. Away to the north
we see the Fu Ho winding its course through
the hills, with vast tracts of plain at their feet,
all under cultivation. To the east and west
the Sai Kong stretches away until it is lost
among the surrounding hills. On the south
we see large plains intersected by fine ranges
of mountains.

A stroll through the walled city during the
forenoon shows many places of interest ; al-
though it is evident that nearly all the busi-
ness of the place is conducted outside the
gates. This we hear is the general thing in
almost all Chinese cities nowadays.

One of the most interesting buildings is a
rather fine old Buddhist temple with all the
different torments of the ten Buddhist hells
fully depicted, and more repulsive chambers
of horror it would be impossible to conceive.
The penalties assigned for every form of sin
are here exemplified by groups of clay fig-
ures, supposed to be human culprits under-
going every kind of torture which the ingenu-
ity of fiends could devise. The awfulness of

Inside the
City Walls.

Buddhist
Temple.

the penalties is considerably detracted from,
as many of the figures are in a most dilapid-
ated condition and are covered with the dust
and filth of years. There are many other
temples here, but the sameness about them
all soon palls on one.

Industries The principal industries of the place seem

and Trade. to be curing and tanning hides, dyeing cotton
cloth, manufacturing old-fashioned arms, and
boat building. This is principally a port of
transshipment, and standing as it does at the
head of steamer navigation, " although a few
small launches run one hundred and fifty miles
farther up with passengers," a vast amount of
produce passes through both ways. The
principal exports are timber, firewood, cassia,
raw sugar, tobacco, hides, star anniseed, na-
tive opium, and cattle. The imports are for-
eign goods of all kinds and native manufac-
tured articles mainly from Canton and Fat
Shan.

Good-bye, At eight o'clock Monday morning we lift

Wuchoiv! the anchor and start on our return voyage,
with little cargo but quite a number of Chi-
nese passengers. After clearing the city the
Bamboo. right bank of the river is one beautiful bam-

boo grove over eleven miles in length, stretch-
ing from the river to the foot of the hills in
the rear. Up here the bamboo grows luxuri-
antly and in rich, feathery masses unknown
in Hongkong or Canton. It is here regarded

as an article of commerce and large quantities
are sent down river lashed outside the fire-
wood boats, enabling them to carry almost as
much again as they usually carry in the boat
herself.

Another thing that attracts attention is the Rafts.

number of enormous rafts we pass drifting
down river with a regular little village built on
them, some of which consist of as many as a
dozen huts in which the crew and guard live
whilst en route. These rafts drift down with
the current and are steered by dropping an
anchor whenever they require to alter their
course. We pass Fong Chuen, looking very
pretty in the morning sunlight, and at half-
past ten, or thereabout, stop at Do Shing to
take on board a few more passengers.

Two miles farther on we pass the large Native Cus-
Liken station of Fu Yung. Here we see a torn House-
sampan that has been cut in half and erected
on the bank in the form of a monument, with
large white characters painted thereon, saying
that the owners were caught in an act of pira-
cy and beheaded. This is put up to act as a
warning to other evil-doers that such may be
their fate. We think the scenery from here
on is seen to greater advantage on this down-
ward trip, and the camera is in constant rq-
quest.

About noon we anchor off Tak Hing and Tak Hing.
take on board a large quantity of the most

beautiful straw matting, all colours and de-
signs that it is possible to imagine. This
matting is not made here but comes from Lin
Tan, a small town situated some twenty miles
up the small river opposite the pagoda just
below Tak Hing. Very little straw is grown
in this district, and the bulk of which this
matting is made comes from the Tung Kun
district, up the East River, almost on the
other side of the province. Large quantities
of matting are also made there ; but that
which is made at Lin Tan is a much better
quality, has a superior finish, and is known
all over the world.

Cocks Comb Almost directly after leaving Luk To we
Rock. pass the Kwai Kwan Shek (Cock's Comb

Rock), somewhere about half-past two — a cu-
rious serrated ridge of solid marble — one of
the salient features of the river.

Lime Kilns. For the next half-dozen miles we pass num-

erous lime kilns built in the hillsides, most of
them in full swing.

Kong Skni. Shortly before arriving at Yuet Shing we

pass a favourite resort of local sportsmen, a
most luxuriant valley at Kong Shui, thickly
wooded and with a dense undergrowth. Here
are to be found pheasant, partridge, snipe, and
a few woodcock.

Yuet Shing. About three o'clock we stop at Yuet Shing
(Glad City). This is a quiet country village,
doing very little business, and would be of no

importance at all but for a famous temple
which has been built here to the mother of
the dragon and called the Lung Mo Miu.

This temple is a very imposing structure The Lung
with its many stone-paved courtyards, where- Mo Miu.

in are many strange structures, consisting of
a roof, supported by granite pillars, fantasti-
cally shaped and surmounted by a fine piece
of stucco work covered with small clay and
china figures, said to represent some mytho-
logical scene. All along the top of the roofs
of the main building are many more such
scenes, whilst dolphins, dragons, etc., of bright
chinaware gaily disport themselves on the
ridge-poles. The outer gate is guarded by
two colossal figures, one on either hand, fully
fifteen feet high. Passing through this, we
come to the main courtyard, in the centre of
which stands a small artificial pond. On either
side are smaller courts ; that on the left has a
buildingf at either end which are used as

school-rooms for the native children. The
one on the right is given up entirely to the
tomb of the Lung Mo (Dragon's Mother),
which is a conical-shaped structure and is sur-
rounded by tablets that have been presented
by various people at different times, some of
them being no doubt of great antiquity. The
temple proper is situated at the rear and has
three principal shrines in a fair state of pres-
ervation, whilst ten temple guards about eight

feet high look down on the intruder, five
standing on either hand. The whole is in
charge of three Buddhist priests, who are very
kind and courteous, informing us amongst
other things that the temple was over two
thousand years old.

Festival. The eighth day of the fifth moon, being the

natal day of the Lung Mo, is every year set
aside for special worship, when people from
all parts of the province come here to ask the
Lung Mo for whatever they may require ;
may be a woman has no son and she comes to
ask that one may be given her ; a firm may-
have lost heavily in business and several of
the partners come here to pray that they will
be more fortunate during the next year ; or
perhaps they are going to start a new com-
pany and, if it is to do with shipping, they
must come and offer something to the drag-
on's mother. It is estimated that from forty
to fifty thousand people visit this temple be-
tween the seventh and twelfth day of the fifth
moon.

Theatre. To prepare for this vast concourse of peo-

ple, a large bamboo structure is built over the
whole of the outer courtyards and right down
to the river. The inside is decorated with
cases containing small figures, representing
legions of allegorical and mythical scenes. In
the centre a large pagoda rears itself above
the surrounding structure — it, like the re-

mainder, being built entirely of bamboo and
matting. In this vast hall a theatrical per-
formance is kept running for three days and
nights, whilst gambling of all kinds is to be
found in a number of small booths specially
erected for the purpose all round outside the
building.

TRANSLATION FROM A CHINESE BOOK.

According to ancient tradition Lung Mo, Chinese myth-
whose real name was Wan Shang Kung, was teal legend
a native of Cheng Shui and married Cheung explaining
Wing Chai, who was then Prefect of Tsun the origin
Hong, during the reign of the first Emperor of of the
the Tsun Dynasty, about 255 B. C. One day Lung Mo.
whilst walking along the river bank she saw a
large egg, which she picked up and took
home with her, placing it carefully away in a
store room. After the lapse of several days
a peculiar reptile several feet in length made
its appearance, which was found to be very
fond of the water and when thrown in used to
swim about and thoroughly enjoy itself. The
woman therefore had a pond made and placed
the reptile therein, coming herself every day
and feeding it with fish. Happening to be
carrying a knife with her on one occasion, she
unfortunately let it fall and accidentally cut off
the tail of the reptile, which suddenly disap-
peared ; but as it had received so many kind-
nesses from the woman, it used to visit her
periodically but in an altered form. Now its

body was of five different colours, whilst the
head was adorned with a pair of horns. After
some deliberation the woman and all the
neighbours concluded that it must be a dragon.
When the Prefect heard of this he straightway
reported the matter to the Emperor, who sent
many valuable presents to the woman, and an
envoy, begging her to return with him to the
imperial palace, then situated at Cheung On,
now known by the name of Si Ngan Fu. For
many months she refused, but after much per-
suasion consented and became one of the im-
perial concubines. After having been an in-
mate of the palace for many moons the dragon
appeared to her and induced her to go on
board a ship and visit her native place. She
eagerly assented and made many voyages
there, as she was never happy at the palace.
One day during one of these voyages she was
taken ill, and, dying suddenly, was buried at
Sai Yuen. Here the body lay for many years,
until one day during a very violent storm,
with thunder and lightning which shook all
the surrounding country, the tomb suddenly
disappeared and the body came down to Pak
Kong (Yuet Shing). When this occurred the
beasts from all around came and wept over
her, emitting human wails and cries. The
gentry of the neighbourhood being greatly
impressed by this strange phenomenon, erect-

ed a temple by the side of her grave and ded-
icated it to the Lung Mo. This temple was
repaired in the reign of Tai Wo, of the Tong
Dynasty, and again in the reign of Kien Lung,
of the present Dynasty.

The dragon-boat festival, which is held on Dragon-boat
the fifth day of the fifth moon, must not be Festival.
confused with the former festival, as they are
quite distinct from each other. This popular
festival is held in memory of Wat Yuen, a vir-
tuous and popular high minister of state, who
committed suicide by plunging into a river,
and was drowned about 500 B. C.

The prevalent stoiy among scholars who Origin of t/ie
profess to know the origin of this dragon-boat Festival.
racing is as follows : Wat Yuen was a high
minister of state during the Chau Dynasty.
He served under the profligate Prince Cho,
who was the governor of the provinces of Hu-
peh and Hunan, then the state of Tsu. He
proposed certain very necessary reforms to
the prince, to whom he was related ; but the
prince refused to listen to him. He proposed
them again a second and yet a third time.
Becoming at last obnoxious to the pleasure-
loving prince for his persistence in endeavor-
ing to secure his attention to state affairs, he
dismissed the faithful courtier from serving
about his person Wat Yuen, unable to bear

the disgrace, and at the same time foreseeing
the ruin of his country, plunged into a river
and was drowned Some fishermen who saw
the act, hastened to the spot where he disap-
peared, but after searching the river in all di-
rections were unable to recover the body.
On the corresponding day of the following
year — that is, the fifth day of the fifth moon —
they repeated the ceremony of searching for
his body, and threw offerings of boiled rice
into the river to appease the spirit of Wat
Yuen. Subsequently this became a regular
yearly festival which gradually spread all over
the Empire. The offerings of rice were en-
closed in pieces of silk, tied up with five differ-
ent coloured threads — green, red, white, black
and yellow.

A Myth. The origin of this custom is explained by

the following myth : On one occasion, whilst
a number of votaries were engaged on the
banks of the Mek Lo River in worshiping and
presenting the customary offerings to the
spirit of Wat Yuen, he suddenly appeared and
addressed them in the following words : "I
have hitherto been unable to avail myself of
the offerings which you and others have so
graciously presented to me, in consequence of
a huge reptile which immediately seizes and
devours all things that are cast into the river.
I request you, therefore, to enclose all offer-

ings intended for me in small pieces of silk
and to carefully bind the same by means of
five threads, each being of a different colour.
Offerino-.s which are enclosed in this manner
the reptile will not dare to touch."

The above myth is taken from Archdeacon
Gray's "China."

Large crowds of men, women and children Description of
assemble every year to watch the sport of the the Festival.
dragon-boat racing. Prizes of little or no in-
trinsic value are offered, which are eagerly
contested for, for the mere honour of winning.
The crews of the boats are often treated to
wine by the spectators, and towards evening
become somewhat hilarious. The poorer peo-
ple line the banks, whilst the wealthy engage
flower-boats and moor them along the course,
the dragon-boats passing between them and
the shore.

These dragon-boats are built very long and Description of
narrow, being from fifty to a hundred feet in the Boats.
length and three or four feet wide. Some of
them at Canton carry as many as one hundred
and twenty men. The men sit two abreast
and rapidly propel the boat by means of short
paddles, to the accompaniment of a drum and
several gongs placed at intervals along the
centre of the boat. The boat is made to rep-
resent a dragon, having a dragon's head with
open mouth in the bow and a tail over the
stern ; also being gaily decorated with flags

and red umbrellas. A man stands in the bow
with a small flag in each hand which he waves
about as though he were casting offerings
into the water. Little packages of boiled rice,
done up in bamboo leaves, are eaten at this
time, as such offering are supposed to have
been cast into the river by the fishermen who
tried to recover Wat Yuen's body. This fes-
tival is so universal that even members of the
Imperial household go to Tang Chow on the
Peiho River to witness these races.

River and Stopping at Yuet Shing j ust long enough
surrounding to land and embark a few passengers, we con-
country. tinue our voyage, bearing a little to the right.
The river for a few miles is very wide with a
long, narrow island lying right in the middle,
which is connected with the left bank by a
wide stretch of sand during the winter months.
Many of the hillsides are covered with tea,
rows of cacti interspersed amongst it to keep
the soil from falling away, as in many places
these hills rise very precipitously. Other
hills are terraced, and large crops are seen
growing to perfection. In fact, this part of
the country has a decidedly more prosperous
and cultivated appearance than any farther up
the river.

Luk F*u. Shortly after four o'clock we sight Luk Pu

(Six Steps) This seems a very flourishing
and well built market town which supplies the
country for miles round. A market is held

here on the first, sixth, eleventh, sixteenth,
twenty-first and twenty-sixth day of every
moon. The principal exports of the place are
tea, china-root and joss-stick powder. China-
root is a tuber which, when boiled, gives out
a brown dye that is largely used for dyeing
native cotton cloth, large quantities of which
the people use to make their working clothes.
Joss-stick powder is what might be called a
tree flour. There is a tree which grows in
large quantities in this neighbourhood called
by the Chinese Hung Shu ; this is cut down
and dried. Afterwards it is pounded into a
very fine aromatic powder, and forms the prin-
cipal component part of a joss-stick.

The river now winds first one way and then Winding
the other, none of the reaches being more through the
than three miles in length, so that a new pic- hills.

ture opens out to view every few minutes
Presently we enter a reach which, from the
upper end, looks to be a perfect lake. Con-
jectures are rife as to which way the ship is
going to turn when we reach the other end ;
the matter is decided by the time we are half
way down the reach, when we see that it is
necessary to make a sharp right anguiar turn
to the right and enter the Sam Yung Hap,
otherwise known as the Small Gorge. This Small Gorge.
is a very pretty piece of rugged scenery, the
rocky hills running down to the water's edge.

Rivers course After leaving the small gorge there is a
now and plain on either bank about two and a half
formerly. miles long. On the right hand bank is the
village of Fu Wan, whilst that on the left is a
barren expanse over which in former years the
river used to flow. According to the Chinese,
during the low water in the winter months a
large dyke was built from the lower end of
the gorge to Spike Hill, which rises abruptly
and alone at the lower end of the reach, thus
turning the whole stream round the south of
the hill.

The Sltiu Hing Three cairn like structures were then built
anchors. on the summit of Spike Hill These are sup-
posed to be the anchors to the important town
of Shiu Hing, and as long as they are in posi-
tion they will keep the city from being washed
through the Large Gorge. Tht dyke was
built about eight hundred years ago.

Shiu Hing. Entering the Shiu Hing reach, we notice a

Reach. very fine old monastery with three tiers of

buildings, the roofs of which rise above but
behind each other, standing on the side of the
westernmost hill on the south shore, along
which ranges of mountains roll away into the
distance ; whilst on the left, between the river
and the hills there is the large plain that was
reclaimed when the dyke was built, and on
which stands the city of Shiu Hing, Directly
after passing Spike Hill there is a very old
temple dedicated to the Lung Mo (Mother of

the Dragon), in front of which stands a fine
quintuple granite archway adorned with some
very old native carving.

We pass the native customs barrier of Wong Shiu Hing.
Kong about half-past five and shortly after-
wards see the wall enclosing the prefectural
city of Shiu Hing, the space inside being
about three-quarters of a mile long by a third
wide. Inside this wall everything has the ap-
pearance of poverty, the greater portion being
occupied by old and ruinous yamuns (official
residences), the remains of its departed glory.
Formerly Shiu Hing was the provincial capi-
tal, and the Viceroy with most of the superior
provincial officials resided here, but with the
advent of foreigners to Canton, he was ordered
by imperial decree to move his official resi-
dence to that city in order that he might
more easily keep them within bounds. At
the present time the former Viceroy's yamun
is in ruins, as no official of inferior rank is al-
lowed to live there. The city walls are in an
excellent state of preservation, and the three
iron-studded gates which are placed at each
entrance are strictly closed every evening.
The principal resident officials are a prefect
and a district magistrate. Three times a year
qualifying examinations for the Sau Tsoi de-
gree are held in this city. The population is
said to be fifty thousand, but there does not

6o
seem to be more than half that number.

Trade. The whole of the business is done in the

eastern and western suburbs (a long single
street several miles in length running along
the embankment). Here many of the shops
are well built and all kinds of articles are ex-
posed for sale ; whilst an air of prosperity per-
vades the place which is totally lacking within
the walls. Shiu Hing draws nearly all its
supplies from other districts and has practi-
cally no resources of its own. Its only im-
portance is that it is the commercial centre on
the West River for a very large district, and
large quantities of tea, cassia, bamboo-ware
and straw bags are brought here for exporta-
tion.

Geomantic Several pagodas have been built on sites

influence. specially selected and are supposed to adjust

the geomantic influences, so that the people

may dwell here in peace and comfort. But

Tartar inva- this has not always been the case, as a very

sion. stubborn resistance was offered to the Tartar

troops when they besieged the city, and the

slaughter is said to havo been so great that

blood ran down in streams to the river and

tinged it crimson.

Tai Ping Again, in the month of August, 1857, dur-

siege. ing the Tai Ping rebellion, the city was in-

Vested by rebels who, taking advantage of the

swollen state of the West River, swept down
past the forts at Fong Chuen, Tak King, and
other places, their advance being greatly as-
sisted by using rafts constructed of large spars
lashed together and having fires lighted on
the foremost end, that the smoke might act as
a cloak and partially hide the men from the
gunners on the banks. Their presence be-
fore Shiu Hing occasioned great distress in
the city. The first detachment of Imperial
troops sent to oppose them sustained a severe
defeat ; but a second body, some three thou-
sand strong, raised the siege and the rebels
retreated towards Wuchow before the end of
the month.

Between 1580 and 1590 A. D the first Ro- Premier
man Catholic missionaries settled here, and Missionaries.
ever since it has been one of their strongest
centres in South China.

Away to the northeast of the city about Marble Hills.
three miles distant are the famous marble hills
and caves, called by the Chinese Tsat Sing
Ngam (Seven Star Cliffs), which rise abruptly
from the plain. They consist of groups and,
in some instances, of isolated precipitous hills,
greyish black in colour, and are probably of
igneous formation. They show up very boldly
against the bare red hills in the background.
Trees of various descriptions, all covered with

a peculiar kind of blight, grow in all the crev-
ices, whilst numerous Buddhist temples and
monasteries are perched on the precipitous
sides of these hills and are approached by as-
cending several hundred steps which have
been cut out of the solid rock. There is a
cave in the largest of these hills, the entrance
of which is at the base and so low that at a
distance it looks as though one had to crawl
through ; instead of which, it is high enough
for the tallest man to walk in upright After
entering the cavern, it quickly grows loftier
and wider, until at the other end it becomes
quite a lofty dome Another opening, high
up on the opposite side, allows the light to
enter, but it is so dim that it is quite impos-
sible to estimate the height of the cavern.
Ascending a flight of steps leading towards
this opening bring us to a small temple cut
out of the solid rock and dedicated to Kun
Yum (The Goddess of Mercy), a life-sized fig-
ure of whom has been cut out of the virgin
marble, which many of the credulous natives
believe is a natural formation and not fash-
ioned by the hand of man. Two nearly life-
sized figures of warriors, each carved out of
solid blocks of marble, stand as guards over
this sanctuary.

The following legend was contributed by
-'C." to the February number of "Notes and

Queries," 1867: Many generations ago, the Legend of
Prefect of Shiu Hing dreamed a dream. In Shiu Hing.
his dream he saw myriads of devils who, in
answer to his enquiries, told him that they
were going to overthrow the ruling dynasty.
The Prefect expressed disbelief in their power
to do so, but the devils still asserted their
power and their purpose. The Prefect desired
some distinguishing mark by which to recog-
nize the devils in any altered form which they
might assume in carrying out their threats,
and the latter consented to allow him to mark
each of them with a red spot on the forehead
as a token of recognition. This the Prefect
did. When he awoke he was much troubled,
not knowing whether his dealings with the
devils were a reality or an idle vision. He
went out to consult wise men on the subject,
but what was his surprise on returning to his
yamun to find it strewed with small, round
stones, on every one of which was a red spot !
"These," thought he, "are surely the devils
I marked last night, and what a good oppor-
tunity is this for me to get them in my
power." Accordingly he caused all the stones
to be collected, to be firmly secured in earth-
enware jars, and then to be locked up in a
strong room in his yamun. But before they
were finally secured they entered into a parley
with the Prefect, the result of which was an
agreement on their part to submit to incarcer-

ation till a certain tree in the yamun should
blossom, when they were to be released. The
wily Prefect knew, but the devils did not
know, that this particular tree never did blos-
som in the latitude of Shiu Hing, and thus he
congratulated himself on having saved the
government from these powerful enemies. It
was understood, however, that to render their
imprisonment valid the door was to be sealed
with the Prefect's seal, which was to be re-
newed by each successive holder of that office.
Prefect after prefect, for some generations, oc-
cupied the yamun, and each of them on as-
suming office faithfully resealed the devil's
prison, until at length the story began to be
forgotten or disbelieved, and one unlucky pre-
fect named Luk, forgetting or carelessly neg-
lecting to perform this duty, the door was
thoughtlessly opened and a jar of the devils
broken. At the moment this occurred it hap-
pened that an official retinue were in the ya-
mun, and the followers had hung their red-
tasselled caps on the tree, the blossoming of
which was to have been a signal for the re-
lease of the prisoners. Perceiving that their
release was the result of accident, mistaking
the red tassels for flowers, and assuming that
the tree had thus flowered every year during
their long confinement, the devils were much
incensed at this breach of faith in the matter
of their promised release, and in retaliation

they caused the city to be submerged below
the waters of the river, and it was not until
they were recaptured (the story says not
how), and the door resealed, that the city
again came above the water. Taught by woe-
ful experience, each succeeding prefect was
from that time careful to reseal the door on
assuming office; and thus the devils were
long restrained from doing mischief.

Time passed on, and with the same result
as before, faith in the necessity of sealing the
door was shaken, and in 1854(1857?) a pre-
fect, surnamed Ma, assumed office. He ut-
terly despised the story of the devils. Not
only did he omit to seal the door, but he
caused the red-spotted stones to be taken
from the strong room and to be thrown away.
What was the result ? In that very year the
red-turbaned rebels (the devils with red marks
on their foreheads now appearing in human
form) captured the city !

Here the legend ends. Whether the devils
have been recaptured, or whether they are
still abroad devising schemes for the release
of the few remaining jars of their comrades
which escaped Ma's destruction, or whether
they ceased to exist when their human per-
sonifications were killed, the legend sayeth
not. But so far as the legend goes it is
vouched for, at this day, by the inhabitants of
Shiu Hing, who declare that the sealed strong

room may be seen any day, and that no man
of the surname Luk or Ma would be allowed
to be Prefect of Shiu King.

The Large Shortly after six o'clock we approach the

Gorge. Shiu King Hap or Gorge. At the base of the

hills on either side of this defile two rather
handsome temples have been built, and from
the steamer they appear to be in a good state
of preservation. A small pagoda on the brow
of the first hill on the left bank exercises a
geomantic influence over the waters of the
pass. The river now narrows down from two
miles to about a quarter of a mile in width,
and towards the lower end it decreases to
about two hundred and fifty yards. The
mountains rise steeply on either hand. They
are bold and rugged, some of them rising in
precipitous grandeur to a height in some cases
of over two thousand five hundred feet, whilst
many of the valleys are strikingly picturesque,
the vegetation and foliage in them standing
out in marked relief to the barrenness of the
surrounding hills. This beautiful pass is be-
tween three and a half to four miles long, and
the hills by which it is hemmed in are from
seven hundred to two thousand eight hundred
feet in height.

In these hills are found deposits ot a pecu-
liar kind of black rock, smooth and porous,

Ink-stones.

A CHINESE INK-STONE.

from which ink-stones are made. As all Chi-
nese boys require one ol these when they go
to school, the demand is very great, and they
are sent all over the country. These finished
stones are about six inches long, three inches
wide, and a trifle over half an inch thick.
There is a thin, raised rim running round the
whole stone, and at one end there is a small
well for holding water running right across
the whole width. The remaining portion is
slightly concave ; in this hollow the lad mixes
his ink by grinding it as he requires it. The
ink the Chinese use is in small sticks, erro-
neously known all over the world as " Indian
ink."

On the right hand, about two-thirds of the Waiting wife.
way through, there is a peculiar monolithic fig-
ure, probably some forty or fifty feet high, on
the brow of the hills, which presents the ap-
pearance of a woman sitting down and looking

up river. This stone is called Mong Fu (Ex-
pectant or Waiting Wife). According to the
legend, her husband left her to go into the
neighbouring province of Kwang Si on busi-
ness. She ascended this hill to watch for his
return, which was delayed so long that she
eventually turned into stone. Another story
says that he never went to Kwang Si but
came down to Canton instead, and spent all
his money in the flower boats and was unable
to return. We hear that there is a similar stone
some little way this side of Nanning and that
it is called " The Detained Husband." If that
is so, it completely upsets the second story !

Snipe marshes. After passing through this gorge the river
again widens out and flows between low-lying
land OR either side. This land is principally-
given over to rice-growing, and we hear that
these rice marshes are amongst the best in
South China for a day's snipe shooting.

Teng Yu Away back from the river on the left bank

Shan. rises a magnificent mountain some three thou-

sand odd feet high, the eastern slope of which
is covered by a thick forest. This is Teng Yu
Shan (Lake on Top of a Mountain). Here
there is a very old Buddhist monastery, said
by those who have visited it to be the clean-
est and best kept in South China. Just below
the monastery there is a very pretty waterfall
which empties itself into a lake of no mean

dimensions, situated about a thousand feet
above the river.

Some two and a half or three miles below Kwang Lee
the gorge there is a large mud island in the Iskind.
middle of the river with a channel on either
side of it. A large town standing to the north
and known as Kwang Lee gives the island its
name. The Chinese call it Mak Yin Chow
(Ink-stone Island). The legend with regard
to it is as follows :

Several hundred years ago, Pau Man Cheng Mak Yin SJta
was Prefect of Shiu Hing, and whilst serving Legend.
in that office greatly distinguished himself —
perhaps more for his honesty than ability. He
became one of the highest ministers of state
before the time of his death. After serving
his term of office as Prefect of Shiu Hing, and
whilst on his way home, a violent storm over-
took his boat shortly after coming through
the Shiu Hing Gorge This he interpreted to
be owing to the displeasure of the gods and
began to examine himself as to what he had
done that could have so displeased them.
He said, " During the whole term of my of-
fice I have accepted neither present nor bribe."
Suddenly he corrected himself, remembering
that a friend had given him a jade ink-stone.
Calling for a servant, he gave orders to bring
along the apparent cause of the gods' displeas-
ure. On receiving it, he threw it into the

river. The storm immediately ceased ; and
the gods, to mark their approbation of his
spotless integrity, raised up this island as a
permanent monument, that the lesson should
be ever kept fresh in the minds of the people.

Sam Skui. A run of an hour and a half brings us to Sam

Shui. We remain here only about half an hour,
as there is very little cargo to discharge and
nothing whatever to take on board. As soon
as the vessel is clear of the harbour we retire
to bed so that we may have a good night's
rest, as we intend to have a look round Can-
ton before we return to Hongkong by the
evening steamer to-morrow.
Closing We arrive at Canton about breakfast time,

remarks. thus bringing to a close this most delightful

trip, which not only affords a complete change
of scene to the tired or jaded resident of
Hongkong, but also affords to the chance vis-
itor to these shores a better opportunity to
become acquainted with Chinese scenery,
architecture, manners and customs than can be
obtained by any other trip of the same dura-
tion. It enables one to get a birds-eye view,
so to speak, of the oldest civilization in the
world while travelling surrounded by all mod-
ern comforts. Anyone who takes this trip will
always have delightful memories of China's
great " Si Kiang."

THE END.

KODAKS,
FILMS AND ACCESSORIES,

Developing and Printing
undertaken.

Good Work - - - Prompt Returns.

AGHEE & GO.,

Photo Goods Store.

Temporary Show Rooms, 12 Queen's Road,

1st Floor above Messrs, Price & Co,,

HONGKONG.

WEST RIVER STEAMERS.

JOINT SERVICE OF THE HONGKONG. CANTON AND MACAO
STEAMBOAT CO., LD., AND THE CHINA NAVIGATION CO., LD.

HONGKONG-CANTON LINE.

S.S. " HONAM," 2,363 tons, Captain H. D. Jones.
S.S. « POWAN," 2,338 tons, Captain G. F. Morrison, R. N. R.
S.S. « FATSHAN," 2,260 tons, Captain A. W. Dixon.
S.S. " HANKOW," 3,073 tons, Captain C. V. Lloyd.
S.S. " KINSHAN," 2,860 tons, Captain J. J. Lossius.
Departures from Hongkong to Canton daily at 8 a. m. (Sunday excepted), and

at 5.30 p. m. (Saturday excepted).
Departures from Canton to Hongkong daily at 8 a. m. and 5. p. m.

(Sunday excepted).

These Steamers, carrying His Majesty's Mails, are the largest and fastest on the

River. Special attention is drawn to their Superior Saloon and

Cabin Accommodation.

SERVICE OF THE HONGKONG, CANTON AND MACAO
STEAMBOAT CO., LD.

HONGKONG-MACAO LINE.

S.S. " HEUNGSHAN," 1,998 tons, Captain W. E. Clarke.
Departures from Hongkong to Macao daily at 2 p. m. (Sunday excepted).
Departures from Macao to Hongkong daily at 8 a. m. " "

CANTON-MACAO~ LINE.

S.S. " LUNGSHAN," 219 tons, Captain T. Hamlin.

This Steamer leaves Canton for Macao every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday

at about 7.30 a. m.; and leaves Macao for Canton every Monday,

Wednesday and Friday at about 7.30 a. m.

JOINT SERVICE OF THE HONGKONG, CANTON AND MACAO

STEAMBOAT CO., LD., THE CHINA NAVIGATION CO., LD.,

AND THE INDO-CHINA STEAM NAVIGATION CO., LD.

CANTON-WUCHOW LINE.

S.S. " SAINAM." 588 tons, Captain B. Branch.
S.S. " NANNING/' 569 tons, Captain C. Butchart.
S.S. " TAK KING," 618 tons, Captain R. D. Thomas.

Departures from Canton and Wuchow about five times every week. Round
trips take about five days. These vessels have Superior Cabin Accom-
modation and are lighted throughout by electricity.
gg^~ Further particulars may be obtained at the Office of —

HONGKONG, CANTON AND MACAO STEAMBOAT CO., LD.

1 8 Bank Buildings, Queen's Road Central (opposite the Hongkong Hotel);
Or of BUTTERFIELD & SWIRE,

Agents China Navigation Company, Ld.

THE

CHINA BAPTIST
PUBLICATION SOCIETY,

144 Shamin,
CANTON, CHINA.

BOOK AND JOB PRINTING,

-:- IN -:-

English and Chinese,

NEATLY AND PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

-:- PUBLISHERS OF -:-

TRUE LIGHT

printed in the Chinese language, and circulating in China and in

various other countries. An exdlent medium for

advertising. Write for terms.

A. S. WATSON & Co.,

LIMITED.

THE CANTON DISPENSARY,

Two doors from the Victoria Hotel and opposite the

English Bridge,
' SHAMEEN, CANTON.

CHEMISTS AND DRUGGISTS,
WINE AND SPIRIT AND

CIGAR MERCHANTS.

—DEALERS IN-
PHOTOGRAPHIC SUPPLIES.

derated Water

MANUFACTURERS.
PICTORIAL POST CARDS AND VIEWS OF CANTON.

(Late Victoria Hotel)

CANTON.

Situated on the British Concession, a

few minutes' walk from the

Steamer Wharves.

Every comfort and convenience for
Tourists.

Sedan Chairs and Guides provided.

( Late HingKee Hotel)

MACAO, CHINA.

Situated in the Centre of the Praya

Grand, within easy access of

all Places of Interest.

A First-Class Hotel, replete with every
comfort.

The "Monte Carlo" of the East.

WM. FARMER,

Proprietor.

INDO-CHINA S, N. Co., Ld.

REGULAR STEAMSHIP SERVICES

—BETWEEN—

Hongkong, the Straits Settlements, and

Calcutta; Hongkong and the Philip-

pines; and Hongkong and Java.

THE COMPANY'S STEAMERS

are fitted with Electric Light, and
with all modern improvements. Excel-
lent accommodation is provided for
First-class Passengers.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION APPLY TO

JARDINE, MATHESON & CO.,

General Managers.

TAK CHEONG,

TAILORS,

GENTLEMEN'S OUTFITTERS,

HATTERS, * * HOSIERS,
AND DRAPERS,

DEALERS IN
CHINESE SILKS OF ALL KINDS.

Nos. 50 & 52 Queen's Road, Central,
HONGKONG.

W. BREWER & CO.

Booksellers, # # # %
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Account Book Manufacturers, &c.
23 & 25 QUEEN'S KOAD, HONGKONG.

Books ofChina&Jaban
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Boots & Shoes
Games of all kinds
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CHAS, J. G. A 000 108 077^ J
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CARRY A LARGE AND SELECT STOCK OF
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)ds.

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DEPARTMENTS:

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Shirts, Hosier}-, Underwear, Gloves,

Hats, Caps. Boots and Shoes, Rain Coats,
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C:--;ar.s, Tobaccos, Smokers' Requisites,
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LADIES Dr.! \ITfMENT.
Ladies' Trimmed. Hats ancl I'ormets,

Ladies' Costumes, Rain Joa»s and Blouses,
Ladies' Umbrellas Sunshades, and Sun Hats.
Household J.Vv;-ery, Furniture and Upholstery,
Deck Chr.irs, Chair Cushions, Sofa Pillows.
Carpets, Rugs, Bedstead.;, iind Pe^di

Curtains, Tapestries, and Table (
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Every re jtdsite fur Twists and Travellers.

-SOTS AGENTS FOR- Univer

Napier Johnstone's V/hiskv, < Roussillon's Champagne, Q ,

Black and \Vliite Whisky, } Chubb's Safes,
CIan_. Mackenzie Whisky, ^ Phillips, Safes

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