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THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID
A TRIP TO
WFOWMBILAMBs
itnierg aui( Jfisljtries;
AN ACCOUNT OF THE LAYING OF
THE SUBMARINE TELEGRAPH CABLE,
BY JOHN MULLALY.
ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY ENGRAVINGS,
PROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS CY D. C. HITCHCOCK.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY T, W, STRONG,
98 NASSAU STREET,
1855,
Enterkd according to Act of Congress in the year 1855,
BY T. W. STRONG,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the UL.ited States, for the Southern
District of New York.
YivojiKT L. Diti,, Sterootyper, Al)EK, Printer,
1*8 FuUon Street, New Tork. 213 & 215 Centre Street.
MfS
^ ten o'clock precisely on the morning
ci of the 7th of August, 1855, the steamer
James Adger left her pier, No. 4 North
River, with a large number of passen-
gers on board. Now as she had been in the habit of doing this at least
once every two weeks, there might appear, after all, to be nothing extra-
ordinary in the fact of her doing so on the day in question, and still less
might there appear any necessity for stating that fact. But there was
something in the circumstances connected with her departure on that
M314037
4 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
occasion whicli we think will justify us in recording it, and presenting to
the American public a simple, brief and unpretending narrative of her
voyage, and the objects and incidents of the mission on which she was
employed.
There are very few who have not heard of that grand achievement
of human genius, the electric telegraph, and of the wonderful things that
have been accomplished through its agency ; — how distant lands have been
brought into close connection ; how people separated by thousands of miles
have been enabled through it to communicate their thoughts to each other
almost with the same rapidity as they could express them ; how it has
annihilated time and space, and how in connection with the steam engine,
and the printing press it is silently and slowly, but surely performing its
part in working out the civilization and progress of mankind. Twenty
years ago people when they heard what would now be considered the hum-
ble claims it made to public notice treated them with ridicule, for they
could not conceive it possible for an invisible, impalpable body, more subtle
than the air we breathe, to carry messages with the speed of the light-
ning itself over a distance of a thousand miles. Where now is the skepti-
cism with which it was received, and where the unbeliever who has not
been converted from his infidelity? Not more than eleven years have
passed since the first electric telegraph was estabhshed between Baltimore
and Washington, and now our country is intersected by a perfect net-work
of wires extending over a distance of forty-two thousand miles. But this
is not all, for if we direct our attention to Europe, we will find that there
are more than thirty thousand miles of it in operation on that continent,
making altogether for the Old and the New Worlds a total of over seventy
thousand miles.
But while the success of the telegraph on the land was fully estab-
lished, the water appeared to present an insuperable barrier against its
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 5.
universal dominion. Every attempt to manufacture a wire which would
operate in that element with the same facility as on the land had failed,
and the most sanguine began to despair. It was necessary to insulate it
with some material which would protect it completely from the water
and which at the same time would not interfere with the passage of the
electric current. Every thing that human ingenuity could think of was
tried, and after several years of unavailing effort, the idea was abandoned.
It was in this emergency that the invaluable properties of gutta percha
were discovered and applied with perfect success in its manufacture, and
in the year 1851 the first Submarine Telegraphic Cable was laid down
between the Straits of Dover and Calais, a distance of twenty-four miles.
This was shortly followed by others, connecting England with the conti-
nent ; and, as we have seen, during the present war the Black Sea has
been crossed with a cable three hundred and seventy-four miles long, while
another will soon be laid across the Mediterranean uniting the opposite
shores of Europe and Africa.
All these, gigantic as they may appear, sink into insignificance, how-
ever, compared with that grandest of all projects and enterprizes, the union
of the Old world with the New. It has been said that human genius
knows no limits, and, in the contemplation of this, the most unbelieving
must admit that it certainly is not easily discouraged by obstacles. Who,
looking at the aggregate results of science, will say that it is impossible,
and that the great globe itself will not one day be girdled by a telegraphic
belt along which thought shall pass with a speed defying calculation. Ob-
jections it is true have been urged against its practicability ; but what
great enterprize was ever yet conceived that did not meet with the opposi-
tion of those who are always ready to combat every new principle, either
in the social, the political or scientific world.
It is not our intention, however, to answer those objections ; the sub-
6' A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
ject has been argued long enough, and the controversy can only be termi-
nated by the successful issue of the project. Meanwhile it may be well for
us to state here, that it has already received not only the countenance,
but the active support of some of the most practical men in the United
States, France and England, and that ten millions of their capital have
been invested in the enterprize. The Transatlantic Submarine Telegraph
Company have bound themselves by the terms of their charter to have a
cable laid between Europe and America, in the year 1858, and this cable
having its terminus on the eastern shore of Newfoundland, will be con-
nected with a land line extending along the whole southern coast of that
Island, to a point on Cape Ray at its southwestern extremity, at which
point another will be laid across the entrance of the Gulf of St. Law-
rence to Cape Breton. A capital of fifteen hundred thousand dollars is
embarked in the laying of the line on the American side, that is, across
Newfoundland, the Gulf, Cape Breton and Prince Edward's Island to
Xew Brunswick, and this, it is expected, will be completed and in success-
ful operation in the Fall of 1856. The capital is in the hands of another
Association entitled, the New York, Newfoundland and London Telegraph
Company.*
The laying of the cable across the Gulf, perhaps the most import-
ant part of the whole enterprize, should have been accomplished in
August, 1855, but for a most unfortunate accident, or rather series of
accidents, which have postponed the work for another year. The steamer
James Adger was engaged to tow the cable-ship Sarah L. Bryant, from
Cape Ray to Cape Breton, and it was for this purpose that she left New
5fork on the day stated in the beginning of the chapter. It was intended
by the Company that the voyage should be one of pleasure as well as
* A complete history of the enterprize will be found in the appendix
TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
SCKNE ON BOARD THE JAMES ADGER.
business, and they accordingly invited a large party of their friends to
whom we shall, without further ceremony, introduce our readers : —
Peter Cooper, Mrs. Cooper, Professor S. F. B. Morse, Mrs. Morse,
Master A. B. Morse, Cyrus W. Field, James S. Sluyter, Robert W. Low-
ber, Mrs. R. W. Lowber, Miss Ann Redfield, Rev. Gardner Spring, Rev.
D. D. Field, Rev. H. M. Field, Mrs. H. M. Field, Miss Gracie Field, Miss
Alice Field, Miss Allen L. Herndon, Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, Mrs. Lewis A.
Sayre, David A. Sayre, Wm. M. Swain, Master W. J. Swain, John Thom-
Iqv, Prof. F. Sheppard, Bayard Taylor, Miss Lizzie Alger, John Conger,
5 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
Rev. J. M. Sherwood, Mrs. Ann Palmer, Mrs. Edward D. Jones, Miss
Mary Sterns, Marshall Brewer, F. N. Gisbourne, Chas. T. Middlebrook,
John Mullaly, T. W. Strong, D. C. Hitchcock, S. A. Richards, B. F. Ely,
H. W. Barrou, Geo. H. Brown, A. A. Raven, F. O'Brien, F. H. Palmer,
J. P. Palmer, Chas. J. Smith, Dr. P. A. Bruyere, John G. Kip, Chas. H.
Houghton, J, W. Kennedy, Francis Winton, L. P. Palmer, Joseph Jones,
Miss Cooper, Robert Russell.
The weather on the morning of which we have spoken was all that
could be desired ; the sun shone out in an almost cloudless sky, and the
light breeze that rippled the surface of the water served only to moderate
the intensity of the summer's heat. Everything seemed to favor the
enterprize, and the crowd that thronged the deck of the steamer were
buoyant with bright and hopeful anticipations of the future. There was
an unusual bustle on Pier No. 4, North River, that morning, carriages
came dashing down with heavy luggage and light-hearted passengers ;
every body was in every body else's way ; people stood upon each other's
toes and, strange to say, smiled good humoredly ; porters with atlantean
shoulders carried off" trunks and portmanteaux of all imaginable shapes
and sizes, and deposited them in the most out of the way places ; news-
boys were eagerly soliciting customers for the morning papers ; vend-
ers of light literature were loud in their praises of " the Blood red
Avenger," " The desperate Burglar, or the Miser's Pate,'* " The Bandit's
Cave, or the Robber's Oath," and a host of other works equally taking
and terrible ; friends congratulated friends, and wished each other a happy
voyage and a safe return ; scientific men looked graver and more import-
ant than ever, and pronounced their opinion for the hundredth time how
" that cable " should be laid ; and loud above the din and bustle and
confusion rose the shrill whistle of the steam-pipe, announcing that the
moment of departure was near.
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 9
" Let go that hauser there," shouted several of the hands as they
made ready to start, and the passengers, who had till this time been in
complete possession of the deck, at once gave way. Then there was a
general shaking of hands, " a hurrying to and fro," the last passenger
arrived on board after losing his hat and cane in his desperate struggle to
be in time, the last rope was unfastened, the steam whistle gave out its
last warning note, every body was told for the last time to " look out,"
and the James Adger commenced slowly moving out into the river. Three
hearty cheers greeted her as she swung loose from the pier, and were
repeated again and again as we swept past. A salute of three guns was
fired from her bow, which was responded to by another from one of
Spofiford & Tileston's Steamers, and the United States Frigate, Potomac,
honored the company and the enterprize in which they were engaged, as
far as the strict rules of the Navy allowed, by running up the Stars and
Stripes to her peak. Again and again we were cheered by our friends
who crowded the end of the pier, until only the faint echo of their voices
could be heard, and again and again we responded with a rivalry of friend-
ship that was determined not be outdone.
We were soon under full headway down the bay, and in a few minutes
our friends became indistinguishable in the lengthening distance. The last
we saw of them was through a telescope, and there they still stood at the
end of the pier waving their adieus. Gradually we lost sight of the large
public buildings, and then the city itself began to disappear below the
horizon. And now we have left Staten Island behind us, and sweeping
past Nevisink are out on the open sea.
Our first night on the water was marked by a grand display of celes-
tial pyrotechnics that illuminated the whole heavens, and converted the
liquid element through which we ploughed our way into an ocean of fire.
It appeared as if the powers of the air had determined to signalize our
lO A T R I P T O NEWFOUNDLAND,
mission, and they did so in a peculiarly appropriate manner. The scene
was one of those which could never be forgotten. During the evening an
electric machine was brought upon the upper deck and it was there when
the night set in. Beside it sat Professor Morse, its inventor, who had
been explaining the principle of its construction to the company but a few
hours before. Here and there were little groups, some on the bow, some
on the wheel-house, and others scattered about the deck enjoying them-
selves in pleasant social intercourse. The sweet music of woman's voice
singing some favorite melody gave a new attraction to the scene. At
first the lightning flashed in broad sheets along the horizon, then rapidly
extending towards the zenith it lit up the sky with an almost dazzling bril-
liancy. From behind the dense heavy masses of black clouds that hung
on the ocean's verge were flung, as if by unseen hands, huge balls of fire
that left a track of flame to mark their course along the heavens. At
intervals gigantic fiery serpents darted from their place of ambush, writh-
ing and twisting in their tortuous way through the ebon vault above, and
then again all was dark as midnight. Gradually the clouds spread over
the sky shutting out the pale and twinkling light of the stars, and
the flashes of lightning became more vivid and more frequent until the
whole heavens was one mass of flame. For two hours did we gaze on
this magnificent spectacle, until the heavy drops of rain warned us of the
coming storm and drove us unwillingly to seek shelter from its fury.
That night we had a concert in the after cabin at which every body
was present, and in which all who had voice for music and some who had
not, joined. Some of the best airs from Robert Le Diable and other
popular operas, were sung with the most exquisite taste by one of our
lady passengers, and then, to give variety to the entertainment, we had
the choicest selection from Negro Minstrelsy. " Robert toi que j'airae,"
was followed by the " Dandy Broadway Swell," and " The Colored Fancy
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND
a
SANBRO LIGHT OFF HALIFAX.
Ball," shared the applause with " Come per me Sereno." The sailor's
farewell to his lady-love was sung by a votary of the comic muse, and
although evidently a pathetic subject, and one in which the aforesaid fair
one and her "galliant" lover claimed the sympathy of the hearers, the
tale of their distress was heard with the most unfeeling indiflference, and
the end of each verse was the signal for an outburst of laughter. This
from a company, too, that should have known better was as Dogberry
says, " most tolerable and not to be endured." There was one portion
of the song which in justice to the composer we must quote, as it is in
its way a perfect gem, and will serve to show the reader at a glance
the sad plight of the lovers :
** Wfiile you are on your slientle bed ashleepin' fast ashleep,
Zen we poor jolly sailor's are ploughing on ze zeep."
The reader will perceive from this that the song is slightly foreign,
and that " the Sweet German accent " is one of its most attractive fea-
tures.
But the concert like all other sublunary things had an end, and all
12 A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
retired for the night to dream over the pleasing scenes and incidents of
the day. The strains of music gradually died away, the merry laughter
of the gay and light-hearted company was hushed, and the only sounds
that broke the stillness of the night were the monotonous dash of the
waves and the ceaseless din and clangor of the mighty machinery.
VIEW OF HALIFAX FROM THE FORT.
CHAPTER II.
ITIEIEir one on board was up early on the morning of the
second day of our voyage, and as all, or nearly all, had escaped
the sea-sickness, we were in excellent spirits. The air was fresh
and bracing, and if the thermometer had been examined it would
have been found ten or fifteen degrees nearer zero than on the previous
day. We had passed Long Island during the night, and were now steam-
ing at a rate of ten knots an hour through the Sound, which runs between
Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. The whole company were on deck
enjoying the prospect and on the qui vive for every thing that was novel
14 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
or exciting. One young gentleman who had evidently been under the
impression that he was somewhere near the tropics, made his appearance
in the purest kind of white, but after a few minutes exposure to the cool
sea air he was compelled to beat a hasty retreat, and when next he came
on deck he was an altered man. The excitement created by the gentle-
man in white, however, soon passed over and every body was looking out
for the next new wonder, when suddenly our ears were greeted with a
well known sound that made us doubt whether we were really on the open
sea and not in the streets of New York. At first we would not trust our
senses, but after listening for a moment we were assured of the reality.
There was no mistaking it — that energetic and enterprizing specimen of
humanity, that indispensable member of society, that juvenile representa-
tive of New York Democracy, the city newsboy, was in our midst selling
the morning papers.
" Here we are — got the last news from Europe — ^have a copy sir ? "
And there to our surprise stood one of our fellow passengers with a huge
bundle of papers under his arm and surrounded by a crowd of eager
applicants.
" Only twenty-five cents a copy, gentlemen — ladies half price. Out
with your money, no time to be lost — got to be off"."
Many were at a loss to know where he was going to, and in their
earnest inquiries forgot to pay him.
" Now then," he said, " turning a deaf ear to their questions — " now
I have got only one copy left and as it contains the very latest news, I
must have a good price for it."
" Put it up at auction," said one " that we may all have a fair
chance." This proposition was received with unanimous approval, and
the paper was accordingly put up previous to being knocked down to
the highest bidder.
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 15
" Now then ladies and gentlemen let us begin — no time to be lost,"
said the newsboy, assuming at once all the airs of an auctioneer. " How
much is bid — how much — how much ? "
" Half-a-dollar," said the first bidder.
" Half-a-dollar it is," repeated the auctioneer, " half-a-dollar — af-af-
af a dollar — af a doll-doll-dollar — who bids more. Seventy-five cents
did I hear — I'm certain I did, if my ears did not deceive my eyesight.
That's it gentlemen, I'm glad to see such liberality towards the daily press,
it is one of our great institutions and should be well supported. The
daily newspaper, gentlemen, " he continued is an indispensable institution —
that means it can't be done without — it is the palladium of our liberties
and must be supported by every lover of his country. How much do you
bid for the paper — how much for the paper, how much. — I certainly heard
a bid — a dollar it was — it was a dollar, I was not mistaken. Who said
it was not worth a cent ? "
" It's an old paper — nothing in it," said one of the crowd.
" Nothing in it, nothing in it," he indignantly replied, spreading out
the paper to its fullest extent. " Did you hear that gentlemen — did you
hear that. None so blind as those who won't see, I will make you or
any other gentlemen a present of it," he continued, " if you'll read it all
through without stopping."
It is almost needless to say that this liberal offer was not accepted,
and the auctioneer went on to sell his paper without further interruption.
He finally ran it up to a thousand dollars for which he received a check
on one of the Banks of Newfoundland which was to be paid on presenta-
tion— with a hook.
Just as our friend got through with his last paper eight o'clock was
struck by the ship's bell, and immediately after we were summoned to
breakfast by the steward. The attendance in newspaper phraseology
16 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
" was very numerous and the deepest interest was manifested in the pro-
ceedings"— every individual present felt that he had "a stake" in the
affair, which might be materially damaged by his absence. All were in
favor of action and all felt that on that occasion silence was mighty but
language was weak, — in fact such was the impression made upon them that
they were soon " too full for words." Some very good things were said
however, and every one was both pointed and cutting in their treatment
of the matter under discussion. In due time when all were satisfied that
it had received full justice, several motions were made — to the door, and
soon after the whole company adjourned.
The remainder of the day was spent in various ways, as individual
taste and feeling prompted — some read the papers and some didn't ;
others amused themselves in looking at the whales which were spouting
like temperance orators ; others again performed astounding gymnastic
feats among the rigging, and when the night came and " darkness rested
on the face of the deep " we had another concert, which it is suflQcient
to say, passed off as successfully as the first. But the weather which up
to this time, was very favorable, changed on the following morning.
We had been for some time off the bleak and rugged coast of Nova
Scotia, and the heavy sea which generally prevails here wrought a
remarkable change in the majority of our passengers. They began to be
deeply affected by the " bounding waves," and their feelings can be bet-
ter imagined than described. There was a general want of confidence
and each went to his state room to divine what the cause of it could be ;
but as it was a subject that required " a mighty deal of nice consider-
ation " it is not to be wondered at if it took a long time before it was
satisfactorily settled. It might be well, however, to say that while in this
state of feeling we felt we had no stomach for any thing. This was the
third day of our voyage, and as we had intended to put into Halifax
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
It
on our way to Newfoundland, we were anxiously looking out for Sanbro
light which stands at the entrance to its harbor. A heavy fog, however,
settled on the ocean, and although but a few miles from the port we were
obliged to put to sea and remain out till the following morning. During
that night we were in imminent danger of a collision with another vessel,
and but for the vigilance of our captain who never left his post, there
might have been another Artie calamity to record.
GATE MADE FROM THE JAW-B0NE3 OF A \rHALE.
About nine o^clock we could see Sanbro light and in another hour
were steaming past it on our way into the harbor of Halifax. Our visit
lasted much longer than we expected in consequence of some unavoidable
delay. We made the best use of our time however, and before leaving
saw a considerable portion of the city. Like true Yankees the moment
our ship touched the wharf we jumped ashore and were pursuing our
investigations in every quarter. We scattered ourselves over the city in
18 * TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
every direction, engaged all the carriages we could find and in a ride of a
few hours obtained a tolerably clear idea of its character and condition.
Some of our party visited the Boscawen, the flag-ship of Admiral Fan-
shaw of the British Navy, others took a boat and passed a portion of
their time rowing about the harbor, while others, made their way into the
fort where they were entertained with much courtesy by two of the offi-
cers. A rather amusing incident occurred during our visit to the fort,
which it may not be out of place to relate here. Three or four of our
friends who were in advance of us had obtained admission through the
kindness of one of the officers who happened to be at the entrance when
they drove up, and were on the ramparts when we made our appearance.
The moment they saw us, one of the party called out in a stentorian voice
and invited us to come in.
" Come right in," said he ; " no trouble at all ; just drive through
the gate."
Supposing that was all we had to do, we told the driver to go ahead,
but just as we got to the entrance, the sentry demanded our pass, and as
we could not produce the required document, he obstinately persisted in
refusing us admission.
" Oh, step right in," exclaimed our friend above ; " don't mind him —
that's all right — come in.'-
We made another effort, but the soldier placed his musket across our
path, and as the matter now presented a somewhat serious aspect, we de-
sisted in our attempts. Our friend on the rampart was rather dissatisfied,
and still continued his entreaties not to " mind him, but to drive right
in." In accordance with the advice of another soldier, we obtained the
required ticket of admission from the Town Major, and passed the sentry
without further trouble, much to the gratification of our friend, who after-
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND
19
HARBOR OF PORT AU uASQUE.
wards told us that he would have got into the fort in spite of " that fel-
low with the red coat."
As many of us could not return to the vessel in time for dinner, we
went into one of the first hotels in the city and gave orders to the land-
lord to prepare it for us.
" Well gentlemen," said he, " what can I do for you ? "
" We want some dinner," replied one of our party.
" Dinner isn't ready yet, and won't be ready for two hours."
" Ah yes. Well then you can let us have a beef steak, or a mutton
chop, or anything of that kind."
" Yery sorry, sir," replied the landlord with a gracious smile, " very
sorry, but there is nothing of that kind till dinner is ready. Let me see,"
he added, and his eyes brightened up as if he had been struck by a happy
idea — " let me see — yes — oh bless my soul ! yes ; I nearly forgot — what
was I thinking about ? Yes, gentlemen, I can let you have some cheese
and ale."
We expected from his enthusiastic manner that he would wind up
by informing us that he had a cold roast turkey, or duck, or joint of beef,
but when his enthusiasm reached its climax and we found that it had no
20 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
better basis to rest upon than cheese and ale, we left in disgust and with
a hearty wish that we were in New York again, if it were only for half
an hour.
In this dilemma we went into the first confectionary we could find,
and in lieu of something more substantial, regaled ourselves on cakes and
ice-cream. As we had but little time to spare, these were dispatched in a
hurry, and one of our number proceeded with equal haste to pay the
keeper of the store.
" What is this ? " she inquired taking up a five dollar piece that he
had thrown on the counter."
" Five dollars," he answered.
" Dear me, yes, I should certainly have known it. Now, sir, I'll get
you your change."
And calling one of her assistants told her to run up stairs and get
all the silver she could find.
" Now sir," she added turning to him, I shall give you your change
in a few minutes."
About five minutes after the assistant came into the store with both
hands full of silver, and told her that was all the change to be found. It
took at least five minutes more to count it and when that arduous task was
accomphshed she divided the silver into three piles, one of which we no-
ticed was considerably smaller than the other two.
" Now, sir," she said, calling his attention to the money with the air of a
juggler about to perform some wonderful feat of necromancy — " Now it's
all right — now you'll see. This," she continued, pointing to one of the
piles, " is for the ice-cream and cakes, and this," pointing to another, " is
for me, and that," pushing the third and smallest pile towards our friend,
" is for you."
We were unable to discover by what right she claimed a portion for
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
21
ENTRANCE TO ST. JOHN 8, N. F.
herself apart from that paid for the ice cream and cakes, and endeavored to
argue the matter with her, but finding it impossible to arrive at any un-
derstanding, we left with the determination not to indulge any more in such
expensive luxuries in Halifax.
Our experience here, however, put us a little more on the alert, and
we resolved that it would be the last imposition. An opportunity soon
offered of putting our resolution to the test. Three or four of our company
had engaged a carriage to drive them round the city, and did not perceive
till some time after they got into it that the horse could with difficulty drag
himself along, not to speak of the vehicle. As they were going up the hill
on which the fort was situated, they were obliged to get out and push both
horse and carriage before them, which they succeeded in doing after fifteen
minutes hard work. But if the horse was unable to go up the hill, he went
down it with a speed that was aiiything but pleasant, and exhibited such a
strong desire to run into holes and gullies that the passengers often wished
£2 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
themselves safe at the bottom. For this perilous ride the driver asked five
dollars, although he had not been more than an hour employed. Our fel-
low-passengers thought this rather too much for the privilege of push-
ing a horse and carriage up a hill, and they concluded not to pay any-
thing till the driver became a little more reasonable in his demands. As
he insisted, however, on being paid five dollars, and as they were unwilling
to be imposed upon, the case was brought before a magistrate who fined
him for his dishonesty.
The people, as we have said, were not a little astonished at the pecu-
liarities of the Yankees, and they certainly had cause for astonishment.
We had hardly entered the dock before half a dozen lines were thrown
over the stern and sides of our vessel, and as many of our passengers were
busily engaged in fishing. Among these, too, unaccountable as it might
appear to the natives, was a man whose fame has extended all over the
civilized world, and who already occupies a position in history beside the
greatest scientific discoverers of all nations. There, with his son, a bright
little boy of seven or eight years, he amused himself catching fish, in which
it may be gratifying to his friends to know that he was most successful, as
the large number which lay beside him on the deck afforded abundant evi-
dence. The Halifaxians do not possess a superabundance of energy or eu-
terprize, and enthusiasm seems to be a quality of which they are utterly
destitute. In fact from what we saw of them they appear to be too phleg-
matic to take an active interest in anything, and it was only with the great-
est effort that they succeeded in raising three cheers for us at our depar-
ture. It is said that they actually commenced a railroad from their city
without the slightest idea as to where it should terminate, and the work
remains unfinished up to the present time. When our vessel reached the
dock we found about a hundred persons assembled on the pier who gazed
at us with the most listless curiosity, and as we looked at them we could
A TRIP TO N E W r 0 U N D L A N F/
23
"VIEW OF ST. JOHN S FROM TOPSAIL ROAD.
not help contrasting them with the citizens of the great metropolis we had
left. Had a Tessel arrived at New York under similar circumstances one
half its population would have crowded to see it. Everything seemed to
be at least half a century behind the age. The city itself had a most deso-
late, wo-begone aspect, and looked as if two-thirds of its inhabitants had
gone to sleep. It would be difficult to account in any other way for the
deserted appearance of the streets, as its population is set down at twenty-
five thousand. The piers, which are constructed on piles like those in our
own city, had the same deserted look ; the warehouses along the wharves
were generally closed, and even the dwellings seemed to be uninhabited.
All the children we saw appeared to be in the greatest affliction, and were
crying as if their little hearts would break. The houses too, as a general
thing, have a rather uninviting appearance, and although we found many
of them open, we were never strongly tempted to enter them. They are
24 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
very old fashioned, are constructed mostly of wood, and are particularly re-
markable for the great height of their roofs. In fact, some of them ap-
pear to be all roof, so entirely out of proportion does this part of them
seem, in comparison with the walls. There are, however, two or three
respectable looking public edifices, among which may be mentioned the
Province Building, in which is the Hall of Representatives, constituting
the House of Delegates and the Legislative Council Chamber. In the lat-
ter apartment are full length portraits of George II., George III., Wil-
liam TV., Queen Caroline, Queen Charlotte, Judge Blower and Chief Jus-
tice Haliburton, all of which, with one or two exceptions, are well painted.
This edifice is built of a rich brown, close grained sandstone, and in the
Ionic order of architecture, with a double front, each facing one of the
lateral streets. The whole edifice has an extent of one hundred and forty
feet by seventy, and is about seventy feet in height. The chambers in
which both branches of the Legislature assemble are much inferior to
those in which the Common Council of New York hold their meetings,
and the building, as a whole, is unworthy of comparison with the City
Hall.
The harbor, of which the Nova Scotians feel justly proud, is one of
the finest in the world, and is capable of floating the largest vessels of
war. A large island, called after its owner, Mr. McNab, protects the
entrance from the waves of the ocean, which, during storms, break with
resistless force upon its shores. St. George's is the name of another, but
a much smaller island, which lies farther up in the harbor, and which
belongs to the government. It is about two miles in circumference, and
its centre is occupied by a fort and a martello tower, both of which, it is
said would be alone sufiicient to prevent the passage of a hostile fleet. A
short distance from this island, not more than half a mile at the farthest,
stands the city, on the side of a hill, commanding a magnificent view of
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 25
the harbor. A large and almost impregnable fort has been constructed
on the summit of this hill, or we should rather say, is in process of con-
struction, as it was not completed at the time of our visit.
On the eastern shore of the harbor of Halifax, and opposite the city,
is a little town called Dartmouth, with which constant communication is
kept up by a small steamboat, that runs every hour or half hour between
the two places. It was founded a few years after Halifax, in IT 50 ; but
its inhabitants having been driven out or massacred by the Indians, it
was re-built in 1184 by several families from Nantucket, who carried on
the whale fishery there with great success.
Although Halifax has a very unattractive appearance to a New
Yorker, its history is full of incidents of a most interesting, and not unfre-
quently of a painful character. The horrible and unjustifiable expatri-
ation of the Acadians, which is described in such glowing language by
Bancroft, has given to it, in common with other parts of Nova Scotia, an
undying interest. Ten thousand were driven into exile, and those who
refused to leave their homes and who escaped from their oppressors,
had their dwellings and even their houses of worship burned before
their eyes.
We saw while here several negroes who appeared to be on terms of
perfect equality with the white population, that is, of course, with persons
in their own condition of life. Those who have settled in Nova Scotia are
principally from the United States, with a few from the West Indies.
During our war with England, Sir Alexander Cochrane, who was in com-
mand of the British squadron, brought away a great many negroes with
him, from Maryland and Virginia, after ravaging the shores of the Chesa-
peake. These were made free on their arrival at Nova Scotia, although
judging from the condition of many I saw, their change from a state of
servitude to that of British freedom did not improve them much.
26 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
About half past seven o'clock, in the afternoon of the same day we
arrived, we left Halifax, after giving the few who were on the pier three
cheers twice repeated, and winding up with a Xew York " tiger." We
succeeded in infusing something like enthusiasm into the people, who
responded with more heart than we gave them credit for possessing. In
less than two hours we were again out on the open §ea, and making our
way to Port au Basque where we expected to find the cable-ship, Sarah
L. Bryant.
CATHOLIC CATUEDRAL, ST. JOHNS,
CHAPTER III.
ISL'Wi night of our departure from Halifax was the finest we
had since we left New York. There was hardly a ripple on
the bosom of the ocean in which the twinkling light of myriads
of stars was reflected as in a vast mirror. Meteors of won-
drous brilliancy shot athwart the heavens, leaving behind them a long
train of light that dimmed the pale lustre of the stars. For hours we
sat on the deck watching their movements, until sleep pressing heavily
on our eyelids warned us that it was time to bring our astronomical obser-
vations to a close.
The iron bound coast of Cape Breton was visible throughout the
whole of Saturday, and as it was evident that we could not reach our
place of destination before Sunday, we thought of putting into Louisburg,
28 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
which was formerly one of the finest and most flourishing ports on the
Island. It was built by the Acadians in 1120, and was defended by
strong fortifications. During the war between the English and French in
1745, it was attacked by a large force of Colonists from Massachusetts,
who succeeded after a desperate struggle of forty-five days in getting it
into their possession. The siege for the numbers engaged, was one of the
most obstinate and bloody on record, and caused a loss of four thousand
lives on both sides. The city is at present in a most ruinous condition,
and as there appears to be no intention on the part of its present posses-
sors, the English, to rebuild it, it is destined to remain in that state for
the next half century at least.
Early on Sunday morning, the 12th of August, we came within sight
of Newfoundland, and as may be supposed, there was considerable excite-
ment on board. There it lay like a dark cloud on the horizon, and there
were sage speculations among those who professed to be learned in
nautical matters, as to whether it was really a cloud or the Island itself.
Grave arguments were held on the subject always terminating, however,
with the unsatisfactory conclusion of " wait and you'll see," which we all
philosophically concluded to do as it was the only course left. Gradually
the cloudy indistinctness of the land disappeared, and as the more prominent
points of the coast became visible, not a soul could be found who did'nt
believe it was real, genuine, hona fide terra firma from the very commence-
ment. About five hours before we reached Port an Basque, where it
was expected we would find the Cable Ship, the bold promontory of Cape
Ray, which is the extreme southwestern limit of Newfoundland, was
visible from the deck of the steamer. All the telescopes on board were
brought into requisition, opera glasses were in great demand, and those
who were not so fortunate as to possess either, strained their eyes looking
through spectacles and spy glasses in the vain hope that they would see
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 29
something like a ship twenty miles off, and firmly believing that that ship
when found would be the very one we were in search of. We could per-
ceive the fishermen's huts when within a distance of eight or ten miles, but
no vessel except a few fishing smacks greeted our anxious gaze. It was
suggested that as a portion of the harbor was hidden from the view by
high rocks she might not be visible from sea ; but even that hope was
dispelled when we arrived at its entrance. Two schooners were lying at
anchor there, but the cable-ship had not made her appearance although
they were expecting her arrival over two weeks. A vessel was seen on
the morning of Saturday answering to the description of our ship standing
off Port au Basque ; it was blowing so hard however, and the wind was
so adverse that she was obliged to put to sea again.
This was a great disappointment as the weather was most favorable
for the laying of the cable and, as we intended to begin work at the
earliest hour on Monday morning. In this dilemma we could do nothing
but either await the arrival of the Sarah L. Bryant, or go direct to St.
John's which we intended to visit before our return to New York, pay our
respects while there to the authorities of Newfoundland, and after a brief
stay, call at Port au Basque again where it was confidently expected we
would find the object of our search if she had not foundered at sea. We
lay outside the harbor three or four hours to land some articles which
were required in the construction of the telegraph at that point. Some
of the members of the Company went ashore where they were met by
Mr. Canning, an experienced engineer from London, who was engaged
to superintend the laying of the cable. He confirmed what we had heard
about a vessel having been seen off the coast the day before.
As our stay here was very brief, and as many of us only saw the land
from the deck of our steamer, we could form no correct idea of its charac-
ter. It had a wild, bleak and inhospitable look, however, and the account
30 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
that our pilot, who had visited it frequently, gave us of it was anything
but pleasing. It was, he said, nothing but rock and bog, interspersed here
and there with deep holes and quagmires, into which, he jokingly informed
us, it would be much easier to get than to come out. But after all, the
majestic hills that towered to the height of fifteen hundred feet above the
ocean, the huge masses of rocks that lined the coast, and the restless sea
whose waves broke in foam at their feet imparted to the scene a sublimity
that all the bogs, and quagmires, and holes could not affect. Our pilot,
too, told us strange stories and incidents of the place which gave it an ad-
ditional interest in our eyes. As might be supposed from the name, it was
colonized by the French, and although now in possession of the English,
it still retains some traces of its French origin. One of the stories related
by our pilot, is so romantic, that we feel certain our readers will justify
us in giving it a place here. We must premise, however, that it was
given to us not merely as a romance, but a matter of history, and that
there are many living in France who can testify to the particulars, al-
though it is to be regretted that the exact locality where they live has
not been made known to us. Although not told in the very words of our
informant, we have endeavored to set forth the facts, circumstances, and
incidents with a due respect to historical accuracy.
When the Revolution of 1189 swept over France, scattering its noblest
families on every side like withered leaves before the breath of autumn,
there came to Port au Basque a French emigre accompanied by his wife
and child. What could have induced them to take up their abode on that
inhospitable shore, was a matter of wondering conjecture to the simple-
minded fishermen who dwelt there, for Monsieur de Saint Maur had no
occupation ; he neither made nor mended nets, nor built boats, nor caught
fish ; in short, he was supremely ignorant of all the little arts that in their
opnion, made up the sum of earthly knowledge. But as weeks and
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ST. JOHNS.
months passed over, the surprise excited by the first appearance of the
strangers deepened into interest, and the kindness of Madame de Saint Manr
and the beauty and childish grace of little Adele were the theme of all,
and won the hearts of the unsophisticated people among whom they
lived. Dearly did the little girl love these kind-hearted and simple-
minded people ; but the wild and desolate character of Port au Bas-
que, its barren soil on which a few hardy wild flowers struggled to
exist, and the sullen roar of the mighty ocean that broke in foam along
the rock-bound shore, made her pine for the sunny skies and vine-clad
hills of her own beloved France.
Often of a summer's eve would Monsieur de Saint Maur take his
child on his knee, and, pointing eastward, tell her stories of the land
they loved, yet left ; of its historic glories and its genial, gay and gallant
people. How vividly were those evenings remembered in after years when
the father who had dwelt so fondly on his theme, and the mother who
sighed and smiled while she listened, had passed away from earth.
Fortunately for Adele before that melancholy event occurred, a friend
32 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
and compatriot of her father settled in Port au Basque, and to his care
Monsieur de Saint Maur when dying confided his beloved child. Never
was confidence better placed ; and in time Adele transferred the love she
had felt for her father to him who was father, friend, instructor, all in one.
Fresh and beauteous " as the morning rose when the dew wets its leaves,"
she grew up in that humble cottage by the sea side, her monotonous life
chequered by no incident more exciting than the annual return of the fish-
ing season.
One morning the fleet of boats had just put out to sea, and Adele sat
watching them till the last had disappeared beyond the entrance of the
harbor. The sea was calm and unruffled, the sky bright overhead, and
where the slanting sunlight fell, the water shone and sparkled in liquid
effulgence. It was a day of happy omen, and the fishermen's wives turned
from the beach to attend to their household duties with happy hearts ;
but ere the sun went down the aspect of the heavens underwent a total
change ; the sky became overcast, heavy masses of black clouds loomed
above the horizon while others torn in fragments were swept like mist be-
fore the wind.
During the night the storm increased in violence, and to add to the
horrors of the scene there was heard amid the pauses of the wind a signal
gun — the passing bell of some ill-fated vessel. There was no one in the
village to give assistance had it been practicable, and the vessel unable to
withstand the fury of the storm, went to pieces, only two of the passengers
escaping with their lives. They were washed on shore in an exhausted
condition and owed their lives to the perseverance of Monsieur Blanc,
Adele's guardian, who continued his exertions after others had given up
in despair.
The two men saved from the wreck were father and son, members of
a n ble French family, the father bound on a mission of diplomacy to the
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 33
United States, the son a distinguished officer in Napoleon's army. Mon-
sieur Blanc had them conveyed to his own residence, and there, thanks
to Adele's unremitting care, they soon recovered. While the emigre of
'8*7 listened with insatiable avidity to the marvels told him by the diploma-
tist of the Consulate of which only the broken echo had reached his place
of refuge, the young soldier related to Adele stories of the ItaUan cam-
paign, and dwelt with enthusiasm on the mingled peril and glory of a sol-
dier's career. The "dullest elf" can imagine what followed, and if he
cannot we refer him to Othello. Enough for us to say that not many
weeks after the wreck there were tears and lamentations throughout the
village, for Adele de Saint Maur, the Rose of the sea side, the Pride of
Port au Basque, became the bride of the French officer, and accompanied
by her faithful guardian, sailed for the land of her birth.
The romantic story of the Saint Maur family it is needless to say
was listened to with rapt attention, and all who heard it felt a renewed
interest in Port au Basque, unattractive as it appeared from the account
given by our pilot.
BELLMSLB, N. F.
CHAPTER IV
IHTI^ greater portion of the southern coast of Newfoundland
was yisible from the deck of our steamer during nearly the
whole period of our passage from Port au Basque to St. Johns.
The character of the coast scenery was the same throughout,
presenting to the eye of the voyager nothing but bold rugged clifis, which
in some places rose precipitously out of the water to the height of three
or four hundred feet. On the morning of the 14th of August, about
seven o'clock, we were within a few miles of our nlace of destination.
Every body was up early, for we had heard so much of the harbor of
St. Johns and the approach to it, that we determined to see all that was
to be seen.
ATRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 35
The morning of our arrival, unfortunately was rainy and, as may be
supposed, the city did not appear to the best advantage ; but the gran-
deur of the surrounding scenery, and especially that of the coast more
than made up for the annoyance we felt in consequence of the weather.
The island is protected on the east by the same bold mountainous line of
coast which we had observed all along its southern extremity. Steep
rocks rise to the height of seven and eight hundred feet almost perpendicu-
lar out of the water which is so deep that the largest vessel might pass
alongside within a few feet with perfect safety. In some places their front
is scarred by deep seams which extend from their very summits, not unfre-
quently terminating in huge caves at their base. We felt the strongest
curiosity to enter some of these, and make explorations in their hidden
recesses, but had no opportunity of doing so, and were obliged to leave
without gratifying our desire. They were just such caves as we had read
of long ago in our days of novel reading, recalling to mind the thrilling
adventures of pirates and smugglers, with their long, low, black schooners.
We invested them with the most romantic interest, and endeavored to
convert the small sloops which dotted the sea into those rakish looking
crafts ; but it was useless ; the picture soon faded before the reality, and
we found it impossible to transform the humble, honest and simple-hearted
fishermen into the reckless, cut-throat buccaneer. Instead of the black
flag, with the death's head and cross bones, there was the Union Jack,
the unmistakable emblem of England's sovereignty. It seemed so strange,
too, that it, instead of the stars and stripes, should be there ; for in the
forgetfulness of the moment, we supposed we were still under the broad
pinion of the American eagle, and that Newfoundland was only a distant
part of our own republic.
The entrance to the harbor of St. Johns is so concealed from the
view at sea that we could not perceive it till within a distance of half a
36 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
mile. On the right rises Signal Hill, to a height of at least six hundred
feet, overlooking the town, and commanding a fine view of the country,
which extends behind it hke a gigantic panorama. The summit of this
hill is crowned with a fortification, and at its base is another, neither of
which, in their present condition, would be capable of resisting a well sus-
tained attack by sea and land. The entrance or Narrows, as it is called,
is, however, well defended by other forts, and in the last war it was pro-
tected by an immense iron chain extending across and fastened to the
rocks on either side. The marks left by drilling holes in the rocks are still
visible, as are also the remains of an old cannon and anchor which had
served as holdfasts for the chain. Opposite Signal Hill, on the other side
of the Narrows, rises another hill, or mountain as it should more properly
be termed, to an elevation above the level of the water of over six hundred
feet. On the other side of this, and about one hundred and fifty feet from
its base, another fort has been erected, in the centre of which stands the
lighthouse. While passing this point we were hailed by a soldier, who
inquired where we were from, and how many days we were out, and hav-
ing answered him, we gave the good people of St. Johns notice of our
approach with a thundering salute that was repeated a hundred times by
the echoing hills. The Narrows is about a third of a mile in length, while
it varies in width from three to fifteen hundred yards, and was doubtless
formed in one of those terrible convulsions to which the whole island seems
to have been subjected, and to which it probably owes its origin. It ap-
peared as if the mountain had been torn apart, leaving a safe passage
open to the harbor, where, even in the most violent storms, the waters are
hardly ever agitated above a ripple. The city is built on the side of a
hill, which ascends gradually to a height of about a hundred and fifty feet,
and presents an exceedingly picturesque appearance. It overlooks the
harbor, which is a little over a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 3t
width ; and which is one of the best harbors in the world, affording at all
times a safe anchorage for ships of the largest dimensions. The first thing
that strikes the visitor is its peculiar formation. After you have passed
the entrance it has the appearance of a lake, so completely is it shut in
from the ocean. Gigantic hills tower above you on every side, except that
on which the city stands, and on their rough and rugged declivities little
patches of gardens have been made by the more industrious of the fisher-
men, whose little cottages help to subdue the natural wildness of the
scene. Near the water's edge, and all around the harbor, are erected the
stages or " flakes " as they are termed, on which the codfish are cured.
The town of St. Johns has no public buildings that can lay claim
to architectural pretensions, with the exceptions of the Catholic Cathedral,
which is a large and imposing edifice, built in the style of the Roman
Basilica, and capable of holding ten thousand persons, or little less than
half the population of the whole city. It cost about five hundred thou-
sand dollars, and has several very fine pieces of sculpture, among which
are two or three of the best productions of Hogan, the celebrated Irish
sculptor. The Colonial Building, as the structure in which the legislative
business of the Island is transacted is called, was built a few years ago at
an expense of about two hundred thousand dollars. It is a square granite
building, two stories high, with a large portico in front, supported by six
Ionic pillars. It contains the chambers of the two legislative branches,
the House of Assembly and the Legislative Council, besides the library,
and a number of smaller apartments, A short distance from the Colonial
Building is the Governor's house, in which Chas. H. Darling, the recently
appointed Governor of the Island resides. The country around St. Johns
is remarkable for the diversity as well as the beauty of its scenery. In
the afternoon of the day on which we arrived, a party of us enjoyed the
luxury of a ride along an exquisite little valley called the Vale of River-
38 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
head. The roads which branch out in every direction from the city are
without the least exaggeration among the finest in the world, and Topsail
Road which runs along the side of one of the hills that form the boundary
of this valley, affords one of the most delightful drives in this part of the
country. As you ascend the more elevated parts of it you can see the
whole town of St. Johns, the harbor which lies at its feet and the lofty
crest of Gibbet and Signal Hills, towering in the more remote distance,
beyond which the deep blue of the Atlantic is visible through the huge
gaps of the coast mountains. Below you, almost at your feet, lies the
Yale of Riverhead, forming in its quiet beauty a marked contrast with
the wild mountain scenery by which it is surrounded. A small stream fed
by tiny rivulets from the rougli sides of the mountains pours its clear
waters through the centre of the valley, making sweet music as it sweeps
sparkling over its rocky bed. In some places its course is broken by
miniature cascades, that glitter like a shower of diamonds in the warm
sunlight, while in others it is almost wholly concealed from the sight
by overhanging trees, beneath whose shade its waters become black as
midnight. It is a trout stream too — just such a one as Walton would
have delighted to angle in. Beautiful little cottages dot its banks, and
here and there may be seen, through the jealous foliage that cling around
them, the more imposing mansions of the wealthier inhabitants of St.
Johns. It is a lovely scene, and might have tempted a less ardent ad-
admirer of the beauties of nature than we professed to be to linger a few
weeks among its attractions. But necessity — " stern necessity," as the
poet calls it — interposes : the cable must be laid, and in a few days more
the charming Yalley of Riverhead will be lost to our view, perhaps for-
ever.
One of the particular features of Newfoundland is its numerous
lakes, and the country in the vicinity of St. Johns abounds in them. One
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND,
39
PORTUGAL COVE. N. F.
of the most picturesque of these is Yirginia Water, which has an area of
about eighty acres, and is surrounded by a dense wood of pine, spruce and
other evergreens. The estate of which it forms a part, extends over a
thousand acres, and belongs to the Hon. G. H. Emerson, Solicitor
General of the island, and member of the Executive and Legislative
Councils, whose neat little villa is situated on its borders. These lakes
are for the most part situated in the low lands, but it is not at all unusual
to find them on the tops of mountains. George's pond, which supplies
the city with water, and which is a sort of natural basin in the rock, is
at least four hundred feet above the sea. There is also another, called
Wilmore's, which supplies the place of an artificial reservoir, and, which
we were told could not be fathomed. The water is conveyed from both
of these by pipes, and distributed over the city, Looking down from a
hei|i^ht of between two and three hundred feet above these ponds is Signal
40 A T R I P T O N E W F O U N D L A N D .
Hill, which, as. has been already stated, stands at the right of the entrance
to the Narrows, and about half a mile farther in from the sea frowns the
bleak cone called Gibbet Hlil, which owes its name to a gibbet that stood
on its summit, and upon which a murderer was executed many years ago.
Strange wild stories are told of a human form having been seen there after
the magic hour of midnight writhing in all the agonies of death from a
gallows, while the most unearthly sounds were heard. There were many
who knew of this, but unfortunately the eye-witnesses were not to be found.
The people of St. Johns preserve in a most remarkable degree the
peculiarities and distinguishing features of their descent. Those of Irish
origin are easily distinguished from the English and the Scotch by their
accent, and if you were not aware of this difference you might very
easily mistake the birth-place of a Newfoundlander, as there is nothing
to distinguish them in this respect from the natives of Great Britain. It
is the same, too, with regard to their features, which retain the distinct
marks of their ancestry through two, and even three generations. In
many other particulars they resemble the people of the mother country,
for here, nature, or human nature, rather, appears to be governed by a
different law from that which prevails in the United States, where all
traces of descent are generally lost in one, and certainly in two genera-
tions, and all the original and distinctive marks are blended in one grand
nationality. They are, with a few exceptions, very liberal in their senti-
ments, and particularly well disposed to our people, with whom they are
very desirous of extending their present limited commercial intercourse.
As a means of bringing about so desirable a result, they regard the
present telegraph enterprize with great confidence, and it will doubtless,
if successful, be attended with the most beneficial effects to them. During
our brief stay among them our whole company had the strongest evi-
dence of their hospitality and friendly feelings. It was impossible for us
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 41
to accept their numerous pressing invitations, their houses, their horses,
their carriages, were all placed at our disposal, and when we left them
on our way to Port au Basque our parting seemed like that of old and
long cherished friends.
Any one who has ever visited St. Johns must have observed the large
number of Newfoundland dogs with which its streets are beset at all hours
of the night and day. You meet them wherever you go ; they lie right
across the pathway, and sometimes make their beds in the middle of the
road ; they stand like sentinels at every door, and, although they never
dispute your passage, they look at you with an inquiring gaze as if they
desired to know your business. In winter they are emoloyed by the poor
in drawing wood in sledges for which kind of labor they seem peculiarly
adapted by their strength and docility. Of their sagacity the most won-
derful stories are told, and as might be supposed, we heard many during
our visit at St. Johns. Some of these were evidently intended to test the
credulity of the hearer, and are deserving of a place among the most
astounding of Munchausens inventions. Speaking one day to an old
fisherman about the sagacity of a gigantic specimen of the fine breed
which he owned, he launched forth in the most enthusiastic eulogy of his
many good qualities.
" I never," said he, " seed such an animal. He beats any dog ever
I com'd across all hollow, and as for sense, why I tell you he's got more
than many Christians I have heerd on. If I was to tell you some things
about that fellow," he continued, looking down at the dog which stood
beside him, and patting him aflfectionately on the head, " you wouldn't
believe me. Would they Sailor ?" he said, addressing the animal which
looked up in his face with an expression that seemed to say as well as dog
could say, " I'm of your opinion exactly."
"Well, gentlemen," proceeded the worthy fisherman, "you needn't
42 A TRIP TO NEAV FOUND LAND.
believe me, but it's the truth I'm tellin' — that dog 'ill wake me up any
hour of the morning that I tell him, and if I don't get up he'll pull me
out of the bed."
" Pull you out of the bed !" said one of our party, with a smile of
incredulity.
" Yes, sir, he'll pull me out of the bed, and he's often done it afore
now. But that's not all, gentlemen, that dog has gone a-fishin' just as
nat'ral as any human bein'."
" Gone a fishing," we all exclaimed with one voice.
" Yes, gentlemen, gone a-fishin' ; and as I said afore, you needn't
believe it if you don't like."
For the privilege which he gave us of doubting his word, we were
of course duly thankful, and having expressed our utmost confidence in
himself and respect for the wonderful accomplishments of " Sailor" we
requested with a proper feeling of reverence for both, to be enlightened
upon the particular qualifications of the animal.
" Why, you see, I tell you how he does. He gets the line and after
he baits the hooks he fastens one end of it on the shore and swims out
with the other end some distance ; then he drops it in the water.
When he's done this he gets a piece of the line in his mouth and as soou
as he feels the fish a-bitin' he gives it a sudden jerk and then swims ashore
with him."
" Ah, yes, that's all very well," said one of his hearers, " but how
does he get the hook out ?"
" Well, you see he never lets the fish swallow the hook, and to pre-
vent him from doin' so he catches him on the very first nibble. Oh, he's
a cunnin' fellow, I tell you, gentlemen. Why, if I was to tell you every-
thin' about him," he said, "you wouldn't believe me no more'n I was
tellin' you a pack of lies."
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
43
COD-FISHING OFF ST. JOHNS.
We assured him we had every confidence in his veracity, adding that
there was no reason why we should not, as we had some dogs in the
United States which were taught the dumb alphabet. This was about as
far as a proper regard for truth would allow us to go, but the reputation
of our country was at stake, and we were determined that its powers of
" invention" should be fully sustained.
While in St. Johns a perfect dog mania broke out among our com-
pany, and an extensive trade in pups was opened with the natives. It
had been reported about the city that the Yankees were buying up all
the dogs they could see, and the consequence was that from morning till
night the pier, alongside of which of our steamer lay, was crowded from
moj'n till night with boys and men, each of whom had from one to five
or six pups and dogs of all sizes and ages. During the four days of our
#4 A TRIP TO XKWFOUNTDT, AND.
visit a regnlar do^ market was established beside the vessel to which the
country people came from miles around to dispose of their canine stock.
As we have said, a perfect dog mania broke out among our passen-
gers, and about forty from a month to three years old were carried off
unresisting victims into exile. Whatever doubt there might be as to the
purity of the breed, there could be no dispute as to their being " New-
foundland " dogs, and with many that seemed to be sufficient. Two of
the finest were named "Telegraph*' and " Cable ^ by their owners, in
their enthuasiasm for the great enterprize. The pure breed it is said are
fast becoming extinct in St. Johns, but judging from the large number of
" full bloods " that were exhibited, there would appear to be strong
reasons for doubting the truth of that assertion. However, they have
outlived their original masters, the poor aborigines, against whom a relent-
less war of extermination was waged till the whole race has been swept
oflf the land. History has many sad tales, but among the saddest is that
she tells of the red men of Newfoundland.
HOUSING THK TOT).
CHAPTER V.
name of Newfoundland is inseparably associated with fish
in the mind of every person, and naturally so, as it forms tlie
principal article of export from the Island. In fact, the greater
portion of its population depend upon the fisheries for their
subsistence and one years failure in the supply would be attended with the
most disastrous effects. The southern, eastern and western coasts are
studded with little villages and towns whose inhabitants live almost entirely
by fishing, while the only portions of the Island under cultivation are
small tracts in the vicinity of St. Johns and other large towns. It must
be admitted, however, that the soil is not of the best description and it is
hardly probable that the people will give much of their attention to agri-
46 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
cultural pursuits while fishing continues more lucrative. The settlement
of the interior of the country is, therefore, of such slow progress and the
central portions of the Island are so little known that they have not as
yet been accurately mapped out, and are traversed only by tribes of wan-
dering Mic-Mac Indians. Yarious reports have been circulated regard-
ing its great mineral wealth, but mining operations have so far been car-
ried on to such a very limited extent that no reliable information can be
obtained upon the subject. Its peculiar geological formation as well as
the partial explorations that have been made, would seem to favor the
truth of such reports, and it is a well ascertained fact that coal, copper,
iron and silver have been found in many places. The success of the pres-
ent telegraph enterprize must eventually open up the resources of the
country and present it in another character to the world than that of a
mere fishing station, but while it remains in its present condition as a de-
pendency of England its progress will always be retarded. For the proof
of this assertion we need only direct the attention of the reader to Canada,
which stands out in such marked contrast with the United States, a con-
trast which every impartial person must admit is attributable mainly to
the difference existing in their forms of government. The day that sees
the bond of Union between Newfoundland and the Mother Country sev-
ered will be one of the brightest in the history of that island.
At present, as we have said, the most lucrative occupation of the
people is fishing, and such are the profits realized by the merchants that
it is nothing unusual for them to make in the course of a single season
over one hundred thousand dollars by the seal and codfisheries. Some
idea may be formed of the extent to which they are carried on from the
fact that the yearly product amounts to thirteen millions. It must be
observed, however, that cod is not the only fish caught along the shores,
but that herring are taken in such abundance that they promise at some
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 4t
future day to form the principal article of export. Salmon is also very-
plenty, and the lakes and rivers swarm with trout. There appears to be
no limit to the supply ; the whole ocean around the coast teems with fish
which become an easy prey even to the most inexpert. Talk of the gold
mines of California ! They cannot compare with the inexhaustible wealth
of the fisheries of Newfoundland. No wonder that the English struggled
so hard to exclude others from sharing it with them, when the monopoly
of the commerce it creates would give them the whole world for a market.
However, in spite of all the restrictions which they have placed upon other
nations to prevent them from participating in the fisheries, they have not
as yet succeeded in driving either the French or our own countrymen
from that field of enterprize, and although they enjoy all the advantage
which almost sole possession of the country gives them, the annual receipts
are pretty equally divided, as may be seen from the following proportions :
French, $4,500,000 ; English, $4,500,000 ; American, $4,000,000. The
French, also own a portion of the coast, and to this more than to their
superior enierprize, is owing the difference in the yearly amounts realized
by them and the English as compared with the Americans.
It might naturally be supposed that St. Johns, which is the resi-
dence of the fish merchants, and from which a large proportion of the
whole product of the island is exported, would be one of the richest cities
in the British Provinces, but this is far from being the case, hardly one-
fourth the amount realized being expended there. In this respect it is
subject to the evils of the Colonial system of England which drains its
dependencies of their substance and vitality for the support of its own
aristocracy and royalty. The merchants are chiefly of English birth, and
as the island has no attractions for them, it is only tolerable on account of
the means it aflbrds of acquiring the wealth whereby they are enabled to
live in luxury and magnificence at home. They have no sympathies in
48 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
common with the poor fishermen by whose labor they accumulate princely
fortunes, and who are made the subject of the most shameful imposition.
But if the merchants are exacting and unfair in their dealings with the
fishermen the latter are, it must be acknowledged, indebted to their own
improvidence and want of self-reliance for this. They are generous, it is
said, to a fault, and too often improvident in the disposition of their means,
so that they are almost always at the mercy of the merchants who pur-
chase their fish at the lowest possible price. But although the price they
receive is small in proportion to the amount realized by the merchants,
they can save, if at all expert, during a favorable season enough to support
themselves and families for the whole year. But the money which is so
easily made is as rapidly spent, and long before the end of the year
they are dependent upon the merchant for the necessaries of life, which
their helpless condition compels them to take, although furnished at an
exorbitant rate.
Although naturally desirous of a change which would give them
better customers, the poor fishermen do not seem to possess the energy,
the self-reliance, nor the economy necessary to bring such a revolution
about. They are all favorable to our countrymen of whose liberality they
have the most enlarged ideas, and they frequently express the hope that
they will at no distant day become the sole purchasers of their fish. It is
well, however, to say here to those who may desire to embark in this
business that they must place themselves in the same position towards the
fishermen that the resident merchants of St. Johns occupy, and that they
should either live in that city or have trust-worthy agents there for the
transaction of their business. The buyer of the fish is always certain of
a market, and after paying a liberal price for it he can still make a hand-
some profit from his proceeds. We may add that when at St. Johns we
A TRIP TO N K W K O r X I) I, A X n
49
CURING THE FISH.
were told seven dollars per quintal was obtained by the merchant, which
was about one half the amount paid to the fisherman.
Although more reliable than seal fishing, cod-fishing is still somewhat
precarious, depending, as it does, to a great degree on the state of the
weather and the supply of herrings, which are used for bait. In one
week an expert hand can catch twenty hundred weight ; but there are
times when he cannot catch more than one-fifth that amount. Herrings
are taken in nets near the shore in immense quantities and form one of the
principal articles of export. Yery little attention was formerly paid to
this branch of the Newfoundland fisheries, but it is now gaining in import-
ance, and may eventually rival if it should not exceed the Cod fisheries.
The process of curing the Cod is very simple. At the close of iho
day, or when the boats are as full as they caji hold, the fish are thrown
50 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
by means of poles armed on one end with a fork, into the house where
they are to be cured, a sketch of which is presented in one of the illustra-
tions. They are immediately taken by persons inside and prepared for
salting while fresh. The cutter into whose hands they first fall performs
the operation of cutting their throat which is done in the most scientific
manner, and with an almost incredible rapidity. When he has done his
work he passes the fish to the man who stands at his side, who completes
the operation by taking off its head, after which he transfers it to a third
person, called the splitter, who opens and extracts the backbone. The
dexterity with which all this is performed is surprising and almost baffles
the vision by its celerity. In this state the fish are salted, after which
they are carried in small quantities on a sled out of the house, piled in
stacks and allowed to remain so for a few days. They are then taken
down and after being thoroughly washed are exposed on flakes to the sun.
Here they lie until they are perfectly dried and are then made up in stacks
for the last time preparatory to being shipped for exportation. The
" flakes," as the staging or platform on which they are dried is called, are
constructed of poles made of the spruce and pine which support a flooring
of the same material. The poles, however, instead of being placed close
together as is the case in ordinary floorings, are laid from one to two inches
apart to admit the free circulation of the air, and thus facilitate the pro-
cess of drying.
As we were determined on learning the practical part of fishing and
of having the gratification of saying on our return that we caught cod
off the coast of Newfoundland we hired a boat early one morning, engag-
ed the services of a couple of fishermen, and having provided ourselves
with everything necessary took leave of our ship resolved to astonish our
fellow-passengers with the proofs of our piscatorial skill. One of our
party, who was an amateur in the fishing line, had been boasting of his
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 61
wonderful exploits and of what he could accomplish if he once had a line
in his hand. He was au fait in everything about it from the harpooning
of a whale to the hooking of a trout, and it was but natural to suppose
that we should defer to his superior judgment. He was in fact the head,
the prime mover in the excursion of that day, and we all regarded him
with feelings of the highest respect. This was increased still more by the
learned manner in which he discoursed with one of the fishermen about
things piscatorial, and the air of authority he assumed when fish were
spoken of in his presence, and it is a fact related of him by one of his
greatest admirers, that he went into a long disquisition upon the many
varieties of the finny tribe upon hearing the word "scales" spoken of
in his presence by a Dutch grocer. We felt that with him we could do
everything, without him nothing, and our annoyance can therefore be well
imagined when just as we were prepared to start he was not to be seen.
We looked for him everywhere, our party appointed themselves a com-
mittee of investigation and with a diligence and perseverance worthy of
the highest praise they searched for him in every hole and corner of the
vessel where it was possible for a human body to be stowed ; all their
efforts however were unsuccessful, and they were about giving up the
search when to our infinite delight and surprise he made his appearance.
At first we could with difficulty recognize him he had undergone such a
transformation, but we soon became satisfied of his identity by one of our
party saying something about " bait," when he proceeded with his usual
volubility to descant upon his favorite topic. This was enough, we felt
renewed confidence under his guidance and everything being ready we pre-
pared to start in earnest. The rope which held us to the pier was unfast-
ened, and with a cheer which was answered by those who remained on the
deck of the steamer, we took leave of our friends ashore with the exultant
feelings of men certain of success. Our confidence in three of the mem-
52 A T R I P T 0 N K W F O f X f) L A N 0 .
hers of our party was, we must confess, a little shaken, by the discovery
that they had bought clothes lines, instead of fishing lines, and that their
hooks were nothing but common hold-fasts. We felt that their ignorance
had been taken advantage of by some " smart" fellow in St. Johns, and
that they had been mercilessly victimized. We promised in compassion
for them not to say a word about it to their friends, but in shame we must
acknowledge, that our love of ridicule got the better of us and as many
had done before, we sacrificed our friendship for a joke. When the
excitement produced by this discovery had somewhat subsided, we all
eagerly inquired of our leader what had become of him and the cause of
the remarkable change we observed in his appearance.
" Look at me," said he — " look at me from head to foot ; " with a
smile of satisfaction he vainly endeavored to suppress out of respect for his
own authority.
We did as desired, and found t!i:it the change was produced by a
huge pair of canvass overalls and a jacket of the same material.
" You see," he said, when we had finished our inspection of him,
" I am always properly prepared and provided when I go on a fishing
excursion."
And he turned towards our friends of the clothes lines with a look
of withering contempt for the disgrace they had inflicted on the party.
We felt their shame so keenly that if he had ordered us to throw them
overboard we would have done so without the slightest hesitation out of
respect for his wounded feelings. The contemptuous expression, however,
soon passed off his features which now began to brighten under the potent
influence of a coming joke.
" Yes," he proceeded, " while you were waiting I was providing
myself with these articles, and it was with the greatest difficulty I could
procure them."
A TRIP TO N K W F O r X D I, A y D
53
A FISH FLAKK.
" How was that ?" inquired one of the fishermen. " I always
thought," he added, "you could get as many of them as you wanted in St.
Johns.''
" Oh, there was no lack of them," replied our leader, " but the great
trouble was in procuring change. You recollect Halifax," he said to us.
Yes, we all recollected Halifax.
" Well, then," he continued, " as little change as there was there,
there is it appears still less in St. Johns. Although I had no trouble in
finding what I wanted, I had to go to three stores before I could get
change for a five dollar piece, and while on my travels I learned that
when a ten dollar piece makes its appearance among them they generally
call a town meeting to decide what they are to do under the circumstances.
The first store I went into the keeper looked at me with eyes opened
to their fullest extent, as if I were some wild animal that had broken his
chain."
54 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND
" You want a pair of overalls," he said, when he got over his won-
der.
" Yes, I want a pair of your overalls, I replied."
" Well, here they are," and he handed me down just the pair I
wanted.
" What's the price ? " I inquired, throwing down a five dollar piece.
" What^s the price ? " he repeated, as if soliloquizing, and then with-
out giving a direct answer, he went on to speak of the excellence of the
article.
" They are very good ones, you see," he said, shaking them out and
blowing into them as you would into a pair of gloves ? " Very good ones
indeed."
I acknowledged this at once, and requested him to fold them up
and give me the change.
" Change," he said, picking up the piece for the first time, and with
renewed astonishment. " The change of this !" he repeated, coming from
behind the counter and looking at me from every point of view, " I can't
do it," he concluded. " I can't do it."
" So I was reluctantly obliged to travel farther and after two more
applications, I at last succeeded in finding that wonder of St. Johns, the
man who could change a five dollar piece."
'Now we know and of our own knowledge, too, that this was all a joke
of our leader, and we know also, that although there may be no "change"
in the friendship of the good people of St. Johns, their stere-keepers
are not so destitute of one of the most essential requisites in business.
However, we gave our friend due credit for his inventive powers,
laughed at his joke a« heartily as if it were a true one, and then turned
our attention to the more serious matter on hand. We had by this
time reached the fishing ground without accident except that one of
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 55-
our party who was ambitious of displaying his proficiency in rowing, to
use a nautical term, "caught a crab" that is to say missed a stroke and
was in imminent danger of falling overboard.
Our hooks were soon baited, and every one with a line in his hand
eagerly expecting a bite, was hanging over the side of the boat. Hardly
a minute elapsed before there were bites all round, and as we were deter-
mined that our fish would be well hooked, we pulled with a force that
knocked us sprawling over our seats and tangled our lines so badly that it
was nearly half an hour before they were clear. We gained some experi-
ence, however, from this and went to work the next time with more cool-
ness and with such success that in the course of two or three hours we
had captured among our party of eight about six hundred fish. It is
somewhat strange that the biggest cod was hooked by the poorest fisher-
man in the party, and still stranger that our leader caught the least in
quantity and the smallest in size. Although considerably mortified by the
result, he did not, however, appear in the least crestfallen, but told us
with an air of undiminished authority that after all there was little sport
in fishing for cod. " Salmon, my boys, salmon's the fish for me ; there's
more sport in catching one salmon than twenty cod."
" There is little sport," said another of the party who had been
about as unsuccessful as our leader, and who was ready to take part
with him in depreciating the fish — " there is little sport in catching fish
that bite so feebly, you can't feel them half the time. And then," he
added, " when you have them hooked, you are not certain that they
are on they make so little resistance."
We all acknowledged the truth of this, for many of us had actually
hooked them when we were perfectly unconscious of having had a bite.
In fishing for cod, it is absolutely necessary, therefore, to draw your line
56 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
as tight as possible without disturbing the sinker, if you would know
when the fish are at the bait.
Our return to the ship was like an ovation ; we exhibited our prize
with all the pride of conquerors and for several days afterwards there was
nothing heard on board the steamer but stories of our wonderful fishing
exploits. We had cod for breakfast, cod for dinner, and cod for tea ;
we never wearied of cod — it was in our thoughts by day and our dreams
by night ; nobody dared to mention the fish in the presence of any one
of us, if he was not prepared to hear the account of our adventure over
again perhaps for the twentieth time, and with numerous additions and
improvements. Our fishing excursion off St. Johns will long be remem-
bered by the passengers of the James Adger and particularly by those
who were participators in the snorts of that memorable day.
STACKING THE COD.
CHAPTER YI.
1o J^OIESlfS as we have stated is the principal fish depot on
the south-eastern part of the island, and is the residence of the
wealthiest merchants ; but there are a large number of fishing
towns and villages in its vicinity. Among these is the romantic
and picturesque village of Quidi Yidi which had at the time of our visit
a population of about four hundred. As it is not more than a mile and
a half from St. Johns it is a place of almost constant resort, for the peo-
ple regard it as a sort of natural curiosity and always speak of it to
strangers as such. Its houses are of the poorest description, hardly afford-
ing a protection against the inclemency of the weather ; but those who
inhabit them are a healthy, strong and hardy race for whom the elements
seem to have no terrors.
The harbor is about six hundred yards in length, between two and
58 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
three hundred feet wide, and is surrounded by steep hills, which rise to a
height of four hundred feet above the level of the sea. The entrance
from the sea is through a deep cut in the mountain, and the channel or
passage is only wide enough for fishing smacks. Here, while the storm
rages with terrible fury without, and the whole coast is lined with breakers
that dash the spray half way up the bleak sides of the mountain barrier,
everything is at rest, so completely is it sheltered from the elements.
Here, too, in this quiet little village, shut out from all knowledge of the
busy world three or four generations of men have lived and died, their
chief occupation fishing for cod along the shore within two or three miles
of their huts, or hunting the seal among the icebergs off the coast of
Xewfoundland and Labrador. Their life is one of peril and hardships,
and still, like that of the sailor, it has a strong fascination for them.
When not employed in fishing or hunting the seal, a large number reside
in more comfortable dwellings in St. Johns, where those who can obtain
employment, work on the wharves and at other kinds of labor.
Portugal Cove, a fishing station with a population of between one
and two thousand, is situated about ten miles to the north of St. Johns.
The road to it lies through a magnificent tract of country, diversified with
all the beauties of mountain, lake and river. We had heard a great deal
about Portugal Cove ever since our arrival, and made up our minds to
visit it before our departure. Having procured a wagon from Mr. Tous-
saint, the gentlemanly proprietor of the Hotel de Paris, who kindly volun-
teered to act as our guide, we started early in the morning, and in the
course of a couple of hours reached our place of destination. Three or
four miles from St. Johns we came within sight of twenty-mile pond,
which is one of the finest sheets of water in this part of the island. Its
shores are covered with dense woods, extending down even to the water's
edge, except about half a mile of its southern extremity, where a fine
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 59
beach of sand and pebbles lias been formed. The road extends for almost
a mile along the boarders of this lake, and then leads away off among
the mountains, from the sides of which we occasionally caught glimpses
of it, as it lay like an immense mirror, fringed by its evergreen forest.
The sky looked cloudy and threatening when we started, and we
had hardly proceeded half-way on our journey, when the mists which had
been hovering over the hills, swept down upon us in a drenching shower.
It was only a shower, however, and as the mists dissolved we were more
than repaid for what we suffered by the magnificent sight that burst upon
our view. Above us, on either side of the road, towered the mountains
to the height of five or six hundred feet, their sides marked by deep seams
and rugged with gigantic rocks that threatened every moment to fall and
sweep, like an avalanche, upon us. The valley lay beneath, rejoicing in
all the verdure of summer, and fragments of mist floated over it like gos-
samer webs. Here and there, at irregular intervals, immense boulders
stood up amid woods of spruce and pine, their gray summits forming a
striking contrast with the deep green of the foilage. It is hardly neces-
sary to say we enjoyed the scene, but our enjoyment was of a rather noisy
character, and astonished the natives somewhat. Away we swept, with
break-neck speed, down the steep mountain sides, and dashed through the
valley as if pursued by furies. Now we crept like snails up precipitous
hills, and when we reached their summits awoke their echoes with deafen-
ing cheers. We sang the praises of the bob-tailed nag in tune and out
of tune, and earnestly solicited " somebody " to bet upon the gray. The
tearful Susanna was frequently requested to cease her weeping on our
account, and the natural deficiencies of Uncle Ned were not forgotten.
But, as the old adage says, it is a long lane that has no turn, and this we
found to be equally true of our ride. At the end of ten miles, Portugal
Cove broke suddenly upon our view as we emerged from a valley. The
60 ATRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
Cove is in the form of a crescent, and is about a mile and a half in length.
Opposite to it, and at a distance of three miles, lies Belleisle, one of the
most singularly formed islands about Newfoundland. It is about four
miles long, one in width, and rises perfectly perpendicular out of the water
to the height of two and three hundred feet.
Portugal Cove is inhabited entirely by fishermen, and is one of the
oldest settlements on the eastern coast. Although employed four or five
months in the year cod fishing, their most lucrative occupation is hunting
the seal. Their fishing season begins in May, and ends about the 1st of
December. From December till March they have little or nothing to do,
unless they feel disposed to work as laborers. On the first of March the
seal hunting or fishing, as it is called, begins and continues till May. The
vessels employed in the seal fisheries vary in size from ninety to one hun-
dred and sixty tons, and are protected along the bows with a sheathing of
iron. These vessels are owned by individuals or companies, and are capa-
ble of accommodating from twenty to seventy men, according to their size.
Each of these pays eleven dollars for his berth, and at the termination of
the voyage one-half the proceeds is given to the owner or owners of the
vessel, and the other half equally divided among the fishermen.
The seal is found principally upon icebergs, and is either shot or
killed with a heavy pole with which it is struck on the head. The prin-
cipal varieties are the harps, the hoods, the howks, the bedlamers, and
square flippers. The square flippers are as large as a good sized bull, and
their pelt, which includes the skin and fat, weighs from five to eight hun-
dred pounds. The hoods are the most difficult to kill, as they are very
ferocious and run, or rather paddle, over the ice as fast as a man can run.
When attacked with the pole, they will sometimes seize it with their teeth
and fling it forty or fifty feet from them, with great force ; then turning
on the daring hunter, they force him to seek safety in flight. The harps
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 61
are considered most valuable for their fat, and the hoods for their skins ;
they are also easier killed than the hoods, and make less resistance when
attacked. The fat is separated from the skin and placed in large vats,
in which it is allowed to remain during the summer, the heat of which
converts it into oil. This is rather a slow process, but it is considered the
best, as it preserves its purity. The refuse or blubber sold for manure is
said to be as great a fertilizer as guano, and commends itself to farmers,
particularly on account of its cheapness. It is sold for a dollar a cart
load, which is equal to about five barrels.
In a voyage the seal fishers sometimes run a distance of five and six
hundred miles from St. Johns, and are absent from six weeks to two and
three months. About four years ago a fleet of over one hundred vessels
was wrecked during one season, but the loss of life was not so serious as
might have been expected. Not more than twelve or fourteen of the
fishers perished, the rest having made their escape to the land, some in
their boats and some on floes of ice. A party of six had got on one of
these and were several days in reaching the land. These casualties, how-
ever, occur but seldom and are not attended with such disastrous effects
as one might suppose.
The seal fisheries of Newfoundland, although very precarious, are
more profitable perhaps than any other pursuit in the world — that is to
those who are enabled to invest a sufficient capital in them. It at
present employs upwards of four hundred vessels of from eighty to two
hundred tons, and fifteen thousand men, while the yearly receipts amount
to about two millions of dollars.
On Wednesday evening, the 15th of August, a banquet was given
to the public authorities of St. Johns — that is, to the members of the
Executive and Legislative Councils — for it has no municipal government.
The military band of the city was in attendance, and discoursed some of
62 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
their best music during the evening. The entertainment took place in the
after-cabin of the James Adger, and was got up in the most creditable
manner. Conspicuous among the ornaments which decorated the cabin
were the American and English, flags blended together, typifying the
connection of the two nations through the agency of the electric tele-
graph. About one hundred and fifty persons participated in the festiv-
ities of the evening, including the company from New York. Mr. Cooper
presided, and Mr. Field officiated as Vice President. When the various
good things had been thoroughly discussed, the cloth was removed and
the speaking commenced.
Now gentlemen, said Mr. Field, you will please fill your glasses for
the first regular toast. The request was immediately complied with, and
the health of the Queen was drunk with three cheers. Then followed the
second, " the President of the United States," which was received with
an enthusiasm by the company and their guests that seemed to know no
bounds. Three cheers, and such cheers as few monarchs receive, were
given for the First Magistrate of the great republic, and then three more,
twice repeated, followed by a " tiger" that astounded the Newfound-
Landers. We felt that although among hospitable friends, we were in a
foreign land, and that no matter what political prejudices any of us
might entertain against the President, he was still the representative of
republican principles, and as such entitled to our highest respect. There
were many there besides Americans, who if allowed their free choice
between the two governments, would have little difficulty in making the
selection. We may be mistaken, but we think there was something more
than a mere compliment in the hearty response which was made to the
second toast. The day may not be far distant that will see Newfound-
land bound in closer connection with our republic than can be accom-
plished by the electric telegraph.
, ATRIPTONEWFOUNDLAND. 63
The whole of that evening was spent in speech making and toasting,
and " the wee short hours ayont the twal," arrived before the festivities
were brought to a close.
On Friday evening the ITth, a ball was given to our company by the
authorities of Newfoundland. It took place in the Colonial Building,
the rooms of which were tastefully decorated with evergreens for the
occasion, and draped with the American and English flags. We had a
fair opportunity of seeing the beauties of St. Johns — and they certainly
realized all that has been claimed for them in personal attractions. It
would be difficult to select any in particular among such a galaxy, and
we will not therefore make the attempt. The ball commenced at nine
o'clock, and did not break up till three in the morning, when our company
dispersed, well pleased with the manner in which they had been enter-
tained.
Saturday, the 18th, was the day fixed for our departure, but still we
were unwilling to leave till we had made some return for the hospitality
we had received from the people of St. Johns. The Company, therefore,
invited over two hundred of the principal inhabitants of the city on an
excursion about ten miles outside the harbor, and about twelve o'clock
we set out with one of the most pleasant and sociable parties that was
ever collected on the deck of a steamer. The day was as fine as could
be desired, and the scenery of the coast magnificent. We saw the
"spouting rock" as it is called, which is one of the greatest natural curi-
osities in the island and perhaps in the world. The rock itself is not
more than thirty feet above the surface of the water, and has a cavity in
its centre which runs through it to the base, and which is from six to
seven feet in diameter. A small stream of fresh water flows from an
overhanging hill into this cavity, and when the tide is out finds its way
through an opening in the rock into the sea. When the tide is coming
64
A TRIP TO NEWFOUXDLANn.
in, the waves rush with such force into this hole as to throw the fresh
water in the cavity to a height of twenty and sometimes forty feet.
After a pleasant trip of two or three hours along the coast we returned
with our guests to the harbor, where we parted with many mutual regrets.
Cheer after cheer was given and returned, handkerchiefs were waved, and
when we could hear each other no longer, the cannon thundered out our
adieus. While passing through the Narrows, Mr. Huested, who was
engaged by the company to blast the Merlin rock, which lies right in the
way of vessels entering the harbor, and which is very dangerous to those
of the largest class, got up a grand submarine explosion for our especial
entertainment. We had hardly passed over the rock when the explosion
took place, throwing up a vast body of water to the height of sixty or
eeventy feet, and shaking the mountains on either side like an earthquake.
Our vessel trembled with the concussion, and the spray fell in a shower
upou the deck, sprinkling a number of our passengers, to the great amuse-
ment of those who escaped. On clearing the Narrows a parting salute
was given a? our bow turned in the direction of Port au Basque, where
tt-e expected to find the Sarah L. Bryant awaiting our return.
SPOUTING ROCK, NEAR ST. JOHNS.
CHAPTER YII.
'■Jp five o'clock on the morning of the 20th of August,
ci" we came within sight of Cape Ray, and about seven o'clock
were sufficiently near to Port au Basque to discern objects
through the telescope. Some of our company went aloft, and
gave us the cheering intelligence that they saw a large vessel lying behind
the high rocks which protected the entrance to the harbor, but we were
afraid to hope lest we should be doomed to a second disappointment.
There was no doubt, however, as to a vessel being there, for she had been
seen also through the telescope ; but it was confidently believed by some
that it would prove to be the French frigate, Iphigenie, which, it was said,
+ook a northern course after leaving Halifax. In fact, every one, even
66 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND
even the most sanguine, feared to hope. While we were speculating on
the probability of its being the Sarah L. Bryant, a small row boat was
observed approaching our steamer, and in less than half an hour we were
within hailing distance. Among those in it was Mr. Sluyter, the captain
of the Yictoria, which could also be seen lying in the harbor. Mr. Field,
who, with several others, was on the bow of the steamer anxiously await-
ing their approach, now hailed them.
" Has the bark arrived ?" he cried out, in a stentorian voice.
A wave of the hat was the only reply ; but it was enough, and one
wild, enthusiastic hurra broke from those on board the James Adger.
" Hold on, hold on," said Mr. Field, "wait till we are certain." Then
repeating his question, he was answered in the affirmative. The company
were all impatience to give vent to their enthusiasm, but they restrained
their feelings for a few moments longer.
" When did she arrive ?" he asked,
" On Wednesday," was the reply.
This was sufficient, we were amply repaid for the anxiety we suffered,
and three such cheers as followed the glad tidings has seldom been heard.
After all, we had not come from New York on a fruitless errand, and we
would yet, if favored a little longer, be enabled to lay the cable which is
to be the first link in connecting the Old World with the New, and bring-
ing the people of both continents into instant communication with each
other. After all, we could tell our friends on our return that we had
accomplished the great undertaking, and that the first submarine telegraph
had been laid on this side of the Atlantic,
We had now reached the entrance to the harbor, and could distinctly
see the masts of the long expected vessel towering above the rocks, with
the stars and stripes flying from her mizzen peak. In a few minutes more
we gave her a salute from our cannon, and ere the echoes died away
A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. fit
among the distant hills, the little Victoria responded again and again, till
she was completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke. It was a grand sight
for the people of Port au Basque, the quiet of whose little village was
never before disturbed with such boisterous rejoicing. A number of
children were amusing themselves on the side of the hills which bound
the harbor, and enjoying the scene before them with the greatest zest, but
the first report set them scampering like a flock of frightened deer, and
fearing a second attack, they disappeared like magic. In a few minutes
we were anchored alongside the bark, and all was excitement and bustle
among the passengers. We all wanted to go ashore, but as the number
of boats was not equal to the demand, many had to remain on board. It
was soon ascertained that it would be impossible to commence the work
of laying the cable for two or three days, so that there would be an
opportunity for every one to gratify their desire. The Sarah L. Bryant
had, it appeared, very tempestuous weather, and for twenty-six hours was
exposed to all the fury of a terrible gale, during which her hatches were
battened and she was running under bare poles.
We took advantage of the first opportunity that presented to go
ashore, and after a perilous passage of half a mile during which the boat
was nearly capsized by one of our heavy friends who would persist in
sitting at the side instead of in the middle — we reached terra firma thank-
ful in having escaped with dry clothes. Our friend, as may be supposed,
did not escape our indignation for the danger to which he had exposed
us ; but he was too much of a philosopher to care for it, and while he
had his life-preserver which he always carried under his arms he felt per-
fectly indifferent to the dangers of the deep.
Before reaching Port au Basque we had to run into a smaller harbor
on the side of which it is built. This harbor is called Channel Arm, and
is deep enough for vessels of two or three hundred tons. When we reached
68 A TRIPTO NKWFOUNrnLANn.
what is called the wharf, we had to ascend a rough Vy-ooden ladder, eight
or ten feet high, fastened in the rock, from the top of which we could see
the village, consisting of forty or fifty frame houses, mostly two stories
liigh. Of these, about half a dozen were in a group, but the remainder
were scattered over an area of half a mile. They were all constructed
without the slightest regard to modern improvements, with one exception,
and that, it is to be presumed, belonged to one of the upper ten. It was
certainly the most aristocratic we saw, and might pass on the outskirts of
New York as a neat, unpretending little cottage. What struck us par-
ticularly in the aspect of this place was the rough, uneven nature of the
ground, which was marked by hills, deep canons and holes. Patches of
turf in some places hid the rocks from view, while here and there beau-
tiful little wild flowers, of which we formed boquets for our lady passen-
gers, sprang up among the crevices. With all the wildness of its scenery,
its bleak inhospitable coast, repelling rather than inviting the voyager,
there was yet in its very wildness something fascinating and romantic to
the lover of adventure. The town, if it may be dignified by the title, was
situated on a rising ground, affording a view of the country to the distance
of six or seven miles. To the north of it rises in solitary grandeur the
towering promontory of Cape Ray to the height of fifteen hundred feet,
while on the south is the broad Atlantic.
The surrounding country is well watered with miniature lakes, in
whose crystal depths salmon trout are found in the greatest abundance.
The only signs of vegetation were a sort of grass or moss and low stunted
bushes, on which grows a brown berry. These and a few wild flowers
appeared to be the only productions of this part of the island. There
were a few gardens to the houses, but no horses, cows, or cattle of any
description were to be seen. The only article seemed to be codfish, and
that was piled up in stacks, which at a distance bore some resemblance
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
09
PORT AU BASQUE.
to hay ricks. The delusion, however, soon vanished on a closer inspection,
for there was no mistaking the peculiar smell.
The first inhabitant we met on landing was an old, rough, weather-
beaten fisherman, who appeared to be glued to the spot with astonishment
at our sudden appearance. We made several inquiries of him, but finding
it impossible to obtain the desired information, we left him to pursue our
investigations in other quarters. The conversation, however, was so cha-
racteristic we give it verbatim et literatim.
" What," we inquired, " is the population of this place ?"
" Eh I what !" said he after a pause, during which he surveyed us
from head to foot long enough to count even the buttons.
" How many people live here ?''
" They aint all home now."
"But can you not tell us their number, are there two or three hun-
dred r
70 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
" Oh ; there's a great many."
" Well, where are they all ?" we asked, looking in the direction of
the village, which appeared to be entirely deserted.
" They are all out," he replied.
On a hill, a short distance off, we perceived about fifty persons who
had assembled there, when our steamship came to off the entrance to
the harbor. They were principally women and children, but they did not
seem desirous of a nearer acquaintance with us at that particular time
although we afterwards found them very friendly. The men were rather
prepossessing than otherwise. They were about the medium height, with
clear blue eyes, light hair, regular features, and a frank, good natured
expression that at once gained your confidence. They are simple in their
manners, and their information upon every subject but codfishing is most
limited.
" What do you do here ?" we inquired of another. " What do you
all work at in this place ?"
" We are all fishermen," he said. " We all catch cod."
" You are not all employed in catching cod ?"
" All of us, excepting two merchants."
" Well, and what do they do ?"
" They buy cod of the fishermen. There are their stacks there," ho
added, pointing to the heap of codfish of which we have already spoken.
" What do you live o^ chiefly ?"
"Cod."
In fact, as we have said, they appeared to know nothing about any-
thing else ; they maintained themselves and their families by fishing, and
the principal portion of their daily food consisted of cod.
On the arrival of the James Adger at Port au Basque, we found
that the mechanical arrangements on board the Sarah L. Bryant, for the
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. ' Tl
laying of the cable, were not completed. It was resolved, under these
circumstances, that the steamer should go to Cape North and select the
best and nearest portion of the coast to Cape Ray, the point of connec-
tion. Mr. Field and some sixteen or eighteen of the passengers remained
at Port au Basque till the return of the steamer, and as we were among
those we took advantage of the earliest opportunity to visit the bark,
which was about five hundred tons burthen, and strongly built. The cable
itself weighed four hundred tons, and was seventy-four miles long, while
the distance between the points of connection on Newfoundland and Cape
Breton is sixty-five. The extra nine irAlas were allowed to make up for
the inequalities in the bottom of the ocean, and any variation that might
be produced in the direct line by the wind or currents. The cable lay in
immense coils in the hold of the vessel, and the operation of coiling alone
took fourteen days. The machinery was very simple in its construction,
and was the same that was used in laying the Mediterranean cable. The
cable as it came out of the hold passed over iron rollers, and from these
between vertical guide rollers, from which it passed again over two large
wheels, each eight feet in diameter. As these revolved it was, thrown out
on a cast iron saddle, over the stern of the vessel. The wheels were sup-
plied with four breaks, worked by two long levers and two compressers,
which were employed to prevent the cable from surging as it passed round
the wheels, as well as to prevent it from running off by its own weight.
These completed the whole of the machinery, and it was found to work
most successfully.
The cable was manufactured by Messrs. W. Kupert & Co., at their
submarme cable manufactory, Morden Wharf East Greenwich, London.
The process of making it is so very simple that it will be easily under-
stood by every one. The copper wires of which there are three, and each
of which is about as thick as a knitting needle — are first insulated with
72
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
two coatings of gutta percha. They are then bound with hemp yarn so
as to form a perfect circular rope or cable, the yarn being previously soak-
ed in a preparation of Stockholm tar, pitch, oil and tallow. Over this
again is wound the outside covering of twelve, No. 4 guage, iron wires,
which besides the protection they afford give the whole cable great
strength and durability. The process of manufacturing with the exception
of the insulation of the copper wires with gutta percha is carried on at
the same time, by extensive machinery erected for that purpose, and by
means of which cables can be made of any continuous length and with
any number of wires that may be desired. That portion of the cable
which connects immediately with the shore is generally galvanized to pre-
serve it from the corroding action of the atmosphere. We saw a piece of
the Dover cable which had been taken up after lying in the water about
four years and which was as perfect as when first laid down. The gulf
cable, on board the Sarah L. Bryant was about an inch in diameter, and
about the same size as it is represented in the engraving.
SUBMARINE TKLKGKAl'Il CABLE.
During the absence of the Jimes Adger our little company pf four-
teen formed themselves into parties of from two to six, and amused them-
selves in various ways as their tastes or inclinations dictated. It was
about eleven o'clock when we left the steamer and before our boat touched
ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND, 13
the wharf she had cleared the harbor, and in a few hours no trace of her
was visible except the long black line of smoke that she left behind on the
horizon. We made our way to the most respectable looking residence,
which belonged to Mr. Waddle, the principal codfish merchant in the
village. We found him exceedingly courteous and desirous of doing all
in his power to render our stay as pleasant as possible. His cook who was
quite a character in his way prepared a dinner of codfish for us, which
with the addition of some excellent bread and butter proved very palat-
able. He was a genius in his particular line that same cook, and consid-
ering the limited means at his disposal made a display on the table that
would have astonished Soyer himself. Out of a dish of huge dimensions
he supplied the company with fish, meat and fowl, and when we thought
the stock exhausted he exhibited before our wondering eyes ham and eggs,
boiled potatoes and fried do., all blended together in an amalgamation
more perfect than abolitionist ever dreamed of. There was no limit to the
supply, and although over a dozen mouths and twice that number of
hands were engaged in the work of demolition, the impression they made
was so trifling that it only appeared to provoke his contempt. Our host,
Mr. Waddle, who was very fond of indulging in a joke, took occasion
frequently to inform us that we were " eating nothing " and expressed the
hope that we were not in delicate health. It might be inferred from this
that we had not been doing full justice to his hospitality ; but if an aver-
age of five or six large cups of coflfee and solids in proportion to each
person is not justice, then we know not the meaning of the term. It was
certainly more than any boarding-house or hotel keeper in New York
would desire to receive.
Port au Basque as we have intimated is a very small village, and
being a small village the accommodations were of a somewhat limited
character. They had never anticipated such an inundation, and as our
74 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
arrival in such numbers was unexpected they were not so well provided as
either they or ourselves would have desired. Their deficiency became
alarmingly apparent as the night came on, for it was found that there
were only three extra beds and each of these with the most rigid economy
of space conld not be made to hold more than two at the very utmost.
Those who were not so fortunate as to secure one of these in the early
part of the evening were obliged to sleep as well as circumstances would
permit, on the floor. It was some consolation, however, to them to know
that there was no danger of their falling out of bed, even if it was a little
too hard for their feelings.
In the midst of these pressing necessities pillows were in the great-
est demand, and blankets if put up at auction would have brought any
price. Necessity, like a bad attorney, it has been said, knows no law,
and this remark might be applied with equal truth to some of the mem-
bers of our company on that, the first night of our visit to Port au Bas-
que. It is with sorrow we state, but as we are compelled to do so by a
strict regard for the facts of our narrative we cannot shrink from the per-
formance of our duty — it is then with feelings of sorrow we state that we
saw by the pale glimmer of the lamp two of our companions in the dead
hour of the night stealing a blanket from a third, while that third reposed
in the unconsciousness of sleep. And wc may also state that they made
an attempt to deprive another of a pillov/, in which however, they failed
as the sleeper with wise foresight had tied one of the strings by which the
cover was fastened, to his wrist.
Notwithstanding our many troubles we slept as soundly as if we were
on beds of down, and arose the following morning with renewed strength
and appetites that must have commanded the respect of our cook and
satisfied the exacting hospitality of our worthy landlord.
But if we fared poorly with regard to sleeping accommodations there
A TRIP TO N E W F 0 U N f) L A N n ,
75
were others of our company who were in a still worse condition, and whose
sufiferings will not fail to excite the sympathy of the benevolent and com-
passionate. The morning of our arrival, as we have said, we formed our-
selves into small parties, some of which went off to Cape Ray ten miles
distant on an expedition of discovery, some on a fishing excursion, while
others started oif on a wild deer hunt eleven or twelve miles into the
interior of the island.
The latter were most sanguine of success and confidently expected
that they would be unable to carry home the spoils of the chase ; but
they were doomed to a grievous disappointment, and if we may judge from
their experience of hunting deer in Newfoundland, it will be a long time
before they are induced to go on a second enterprize of the kind. One of
the most enthusiastic, but whose ideas of deer hunting were of a rather
t6 A T R I P T O N K W F O U N D [. A N I) .
singular character, in addition to his rifle, was armed with a tooth brush
and a bottle of perfume, while with praisewortliy precaution he provided
himself with a pair of kid gloves to preserve his hands from the onslaught
of mosquitoes. It was certainly a grotesque hunting party, and will
furnish material for many a good joke to the villagers of Port au Basque.
Eleven or twelve miles over a perfect wilderness of rock and bog, inter-
si3ersed occasionally with stunted shrubbery, and no deer to be seen, was
anything but encouraging ; and to add to their disappointment, they had
rather improvideutly forgotten to furnish themselves with sufficient pro-
visions. They started about one o'clock, and long before night their
eatables were all exhausted, and their spirits — of both kinds — began to
give out. Only one codfish, and that of rather diminutive dimensions,
remained ; and as there were some five or six to divide it among, the
prospect of the hunters was somewhat gloomy. In this dilemma a council
of war was held, at which it was proposed that the fish should be kept
for breakfast the following morning ; but their necessities were pressing ;
and it was finally decided that it should be demolished there and then,
and that the morrow should provide for itself. That night they passed on
the side of a hill, and the following morning, sadder but wiser men, they
turned their faces towards Port au Basque, which they reached about
noon, in an almost famishing condition. One rushed in an almost frantic
state into Mr. Waddell's grocery, and procured some crackers and cheese,
while another invested a portion of his funds in a dozen herrings, which
it was found had not been in their native element for seven or eight days.
" I want you," said he to our friend the cook — " I want you to fry
these for us immediately."
" What are they ?" said the cook, eyeing them very suspiciously.
" Fish of course — don't you see — and we want them done as nice as
possible."
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
11
" I can't do them for you," he replied, " we never do such fish here."
" And why not/' said the knight of the perfume bottle, for it was he,
— " why not."
" Well, because I don't like their looks."
" You don't, eh ? And pray what's the reason. They're good, fresh
fish, are they not ?"
" Well, they may have been fresh enough once, but that is about a
week ago."
" A week ago !" the knight replied in unfeigned astonishment, " Why
they were sold to me for fresh fish."
" Well, sir, all I have got to say is," rejoined the cook, " that if they
were bought for fresh fish it is you that was sold. I can't do them sir, I
can't do them, and if I tried they wouldn't hold together in the pan."
This was sufficient ; the knight of the perfume bottle was reluctantly
THE Ili:.\TEi:S KKTUUN
78 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
obliged to acknowledge that he had been " sold," and made a resolution
there and then that he would never even under the most pressing neces-
sities attempt to buy fish again. The cheese and crackers, however, were
good, and served to satisfy the cravings of the party till dinner was pre-
pared. As a deer hunt the affair was certainly a lamentable failure ; but
our readers must not suppose that there were no deer on the island, for
we were told that about thirty miles in the interior they are to be found
in abundance. There is one lesson which may be learned from it with
profit by all who may hereafter go a hunting in Newfoundland, and that
is, always to take plenty of provisions with you, ignore the existence of kid
gloves, and leave your perfume bottles at home.
The party who went on a tour of discovery to Cape Ray were also
compelled to encamp on the hill side, as they found it utterly impossible
to return to the village before night fall. But if their bed was not so
desirable as they might have wished, they were more than compensated
for that and the other inconveniences to which they were subjected, in the
magnificence of the scenery by which they were surrounded. From the
summit of Cape Ray they had an extended view of the interior of the
island which they described in such glowing colors on their return that
several parties were about being organized for a similar excursion. Far
as the eye could reach there was a never-ending succession of hills and
mountains, and embosomed in these were vallies that might rival the finest
ever seen from Alpine summits. They had a wild, weird beauty that
reminded one of some of the scenes in Ossian, and if peopled by the
beings of his fancy the picture would have been complete. But there
was no living thing visible, and in that vast solitude not a sound was
heard to break the stillness of the scene. Nature held supreme dominion,
for as yet the virgin soil was unbroken, and there was not even the trace
of a habitation to tell that a human being had ever lived there. With
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. T9
such a sight beneath them it is not to be wondered at if our friends took
no note of time, and if night overtook them on their return. They were
determined not to leave before sunset, and they were amply rewarded for
tlieir delay by the new beauties which were revealed to them. As the
sun descended the heavens he threw over the scene a flood of golden light,
which turned to fire as he disappeared below the horizon. Soon the grey
mists of evening crept up the hill sides concealing the valleys from the
view, and bringing out in stronger relief the bleak and barren summits of
the surrounding mountains. Then, even the mountains became shadowy
and indistinct as the night came on, the valleys with their lakes and
rivers and evergreen forests disappeared as if under the wand of a potent
magician, the golden light, that flooded hill and dale was gone and every-
thing was lost in the darkness of the night.
Our friends, as we have said, slept on the hill side, having concluded
to remain after two or three unsuccessful attempts to reach Cape Ray
Cove, where a few fishermen resided with their families. They had dis-
missed their guides who stopped at the first habitation they could find
with the intention of spending the night there, and of returning to the
party in the morning. But the people of the house having no knowledge
of the arrival of the James Adger at Port au Basque, and having in the
early part of the day seen the guides in company with our friends, con-
cluded that there was some fearful mystery about the matter which should
be explained at once. They put no confidence whatever in the story of
the steamer having arrived, and actually believed that a murder had been
committed. They accordingly set out at once on the search for the dead
bodies, and about three o'clock in the morning came upon the spot where
our friends lay, wrapt in all the unconciousness of sleep. The sleepers
were soon aroused by the barking of a dog that accompanied the fish-
ermen, and one of them seizing an axe with which he had armed him-
80 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
self before leaving Port au Basque and which lay beside him, prepared to
defend himself against what he believed to be a midnight attack of Indians.
Two of the fishermen who were all eagerness to congratulate him on his
being still in the land of the living, met with a warmer reception than
they deserved, and like many before them, would have suffered by their
friendship if they had not somewhat hastily retreated. The matter how-
ever was soon explained, and the whole party returned to the house of
the fishermen where they were provided with a more comfortable lodging
for the remainder of the night, and a tolerably good breakfast in the
morning.
THE VICTORIA, TOWING THE CABLE-SHIP FROM PORT AU BASQUE, TO
CAPE RAY COVE.
CHAPTER YIII.
JBLM James Adger returned on Tuesday evening, the 21st, to
Port au Basque, and there was a grand reunion of the com-
pany. Those who had gone in the steamer to Cape North had
wonderful stories to tell us of the scenery and still more won-
derful accounts to give us of their fishing exploits. Codfish such as fisher-
men never dreamed of in their most extravagant moments were captured
by them, but when asked for the proofs of their skill they were nowhere
OZ A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
to be found. Six feet was a medium length and a hundred pounds a mere
trifle in measuring their size and weight ; but as they were fish stories we
were all willing to allow a fair latitude and forgave them for the imposition.
That evening, it is almost needless to say, we slept aboard, and our
sleep was not disturbed by any fear that our blankets or pillows would be
stolen. The following morning the Sarah L. Bryant was towed by the
Victoria up to Cape Ray Cove, which was decided upon as the starting
place, being nearer by five miles to Cape North. There was also another
great advantage it possessed over Port au Basque : it had a fine sandy
beach, which experience has proved, forms a better and safer resting
place for the cable than rocks. Once it becomes imbedded in sand, it
may lie there for a century, but if exposed to friction on rocks, it would
be worn away or cut through in less than a year.
It was found necessary, to remove the telegraph instruments from
Port au Basque to the point selected on the beach of Cape Ray Cove,
which in itself was a most tedious and laborious work. As a number of
the passengers volunteered their assistance, however, it was expedited, and
by twelve o'clock everything was transported to the place designated.
Here it was decided to erect a frame house, which was an undertaking of
no small magnitude when the limited means and facilities of the place are
considered. The Yictoria was employed in carrying th'e frame and timber
for the purpose from Port au Basque, but when she arrived with them at
the Cove it was found that she could not approach within several hundred
feet of the shore on account of the shallowness of the water. They
were obliged under these circumstances therefore to form a raft, and on
it to land all the timber required for the building of the house. The larg-
est planks were accordingly thrown over the propeller's side, lashed
together with ropes in the form of a square, and on this was placed the
frame work, the shingles and the other parts of the structure.
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 83
After an hour's hard work, in the course of which the raft gave way
two or three times, they succeeded in getting all the timber upon it and
attaching it to a boat prepared to tow it ashore. The progress made in
rowing was rather slow, but they at last succeeded by hard tugging and
pulling to get it within fifty or sixty yards of the beach. Here however,
the waves were so high, that it was considered by some exceedingly
perilous to land in the midst of them ; but as the whole shore was lined
with breakers and it became evident that there was no other resource
they went to work in utter defiance of the danger.
" Row ahead," said Captain Sluyter, who was on the raft with one
of his crew — " row ahead." The fishermen pulled with might and main,
and in a few minutes after the order was given they were in the midst of
the breakers, which threatened every moment to swamp the boat. They
saw they were in for it now, and as there was no retreating they rowed with
redoubled energy ; but the raft which had held together better than was
expected after leaving the side of the steamer, now exhibited strong symp-
toms of going to pieces, and it had hardly got in among the breakers
before it parted in the centre, leaving Captain Sluyter on one portion and
his assistant on the other. Their position became every moment more
dangerous, as the planks on which they stood were very slightly secured,
but by the most unremitting exertions they succeeded in keeping them
together, and in getting safely ashore. A large portion of the timbers
would doubtless have floated off with the receding tide had it not been
for those on shore who rushed up to their armpits in the water, and not
without some risk hauled them up on the beach. In this they were assist-
ed by the dogs which seized the planks in their teeth, and although some-
times over a hundred feet out, swam ashore with them.
When all the timber was landed the frame of the house was put up,
and in an incredibly short space of time it was prepared for the reception
84 A T R I P T () X E W F O U N D L A N D .
of the batteries and other telegraph instruments. A deep hole was dug
in the centre of the building, and in this was sunk a heavy piece of timber
about the thickness of an ordinary capstan. A hogshead was placed over
this again, and the intermediate space between it and the capstan, as we
shall call it, being filled up it was rendered so firm that it would hold the
largest vessel in a gale of wind. Around this the cable was to be wound,
and although the straining produced by it was comparatively slight it was
considered necessary to have it well secured in case of emergency.
Everything was now prepared and in readiness for the laying of the
cable, which was commenced on Thursday, the 23d of August.
It was a most exciting scene, although attended with little danger to
those employed in the laying or paying out of the line. The Sarah L.
Bryant was lying a little less than a mile from the shore, and the steamer
Victoria about half that distance. A sufficient quantity of the cable was
taken from her hold and placed in the form of a coil upon two boats,
lashed together. This was performed with little difficulty ; but the towing
of it ashore was a most critical task, and required all the attention and
care of Mr. Canning. It was impossible, without imminent risk, to employ
either the James Adger or the propeller in this part of the work, as
neither could approach sufficiently near the shore to land the cable. It
was therefore decided, as the only safe and practical plan, that the boats
should be towed ashore by two others manned by fishermen, and some of
the hands from the steamers. As soon as the cable was placed on board
the boats, they were taken in tow and then commenced the tedious pro-
cess of paying it out. Its whole weight was about four tons, and as it
had to be paid out with more caution than would be required in laying it
from the ship, at least five hours were consumed in landing and placing it
in connection with the batteries.
When the boats having the cable on board commenced paying it out,
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
85
TAKING THE RAFT ASHORE,
they moved so slowly that their progress was hardly perceptible from the
deck of the steamer. It was known that the work had begun, but, un-
fortunately, the James Adger was too far off to allow the company on
board to see what was doing. A portion of the most enthusiastic volun-
teered their services, and having procured one of the steamer's boats
assisted in towing. They were determined on sharing the glory of the
undertaking, that they might hereafter have the gratification of saying
they were among those who laid the great submarine cable on this side
of the Atlantic. They worked hard for two or three hours, and did
not give up till they saw it successfully landed ; then giving three enthu-
86 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
siastic cheers, which were answered in the same spirit by those on shore,
they started for the steamer with the gratifying intelligence.
" Now boys," said one of the party, " let us be the first to bring the
news, and we, will call ourselves the Submarine Telegraph Express, for the
occasion." A general assent was given to this proposal, and away they
started for the James Adger, making their little boat fly over the waves
in their impatience to reach the vessel. As they passed the propeller one
of the hands hailed them and asked the news.
" What is the matter ?" he inquired. " Have they got through ? Is
all right ?"
"Yes," they all replied in one voice ; "the cable is laid — all right.
Let us have three more cheers — hip, hip, hurra." And three more cheers
were given that made the welkin ring. While passing the Sarah L. Bry-
ant, the same question was asked, and the response greeted with another
burst of enthusiasm. In ten minutes they were on board the James
Adger, where, however, they found the gratifying intelligence had pre-
ceded them. Little did they imagine then that their eiforts would be
rendered worse than useless, and that in the course of a week one-half the
cable would be lost.
The end of the cable having been secured by several coils around the
capstan, we remained at anchor that night, and made ready to start early
the following morning. That morning, however, we were prevented by a
dense fog, which rendered it exceedingly dangerous for us to attempt such
an undertaking. In fact, if we felt ever so much inclined it would have
been almost impossible, as we could not discern objects at a distance of a
hundred yards. We were obliged, therefore, to remain where we were
during the greater part of the day, anxiously watching every sign of a
change in the weather. One of our boats, containing seven or eight per-
sons, ventured out, and having mistaken the direction of the land, came
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 8t
very near, being lost. The error, however, was discovered before the
steamer was out of sight, and corrected immediately. Up to eight o'clock
that evening no change had taken place in the weather ; and we began
to lose all hope of the fog clearing away that night. About nine o'clock,
however, we caught faint glimpses of the moon through the murky at-
mosphere, and in a few minutes more we could see her dimly, as through
a veil. Slowly the fog began to disappear, and in the course of an hour
we discerned the ship and propeller lying on our larboard bow, and about
one-fourth of the distance between us and the shore. A light breeze
sprung up wliich assisted in clearing the atmosphere, and there was every
indication that we would have fine weather in the morning for the prose-
cution of our work. At last, after knocking about here for four or five
days, we had a favorable prospect of getting away, and we congratulated
each other on our good fortune. In two days more and with a continu-
ance of such weather, we would be at Cape North with the end of the
cable, and ready to start for home. But here, again, we were doomed to
disappointment and to a longer stay off this bleak and desolate coast.
The breeze io which we were indebted for clearing away the fog, freshened
near midnight, and before daybreak blew a perfect gale. Notwithstanding
the state of the weather it was decided to start in the morning, and about
six o'clock we accordingly weighed anchor and made ready to tow the
ship to sea. All this time we were under shelter of the land, and al-
though it blow with great violence, the waves ran low. Having succeeded,
after the greatest difficulty, in attaching the Sarah L. Bryant with a
hawser, we prepared to tow her, but in this we were prevented by another
obstacle, ll was found, after repeated attempts, impossible to raise her
anchor ; and, having no other alternative, her captain was obliged to slip
it, having previously attached a buoy to the chain to mark its location.
All this time the submarine cable held on securely to the ship, although
88 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
subjected to great straining. In the midst of the intense excitement
Avhich prevailed oh board the steamer, it was rumored that it had given
way, but it had only disappeared from our view for a few moments, and
when we looked again, there it was, holding on with a death-like tenacity.
In the midst of all the trouble it was encouraging to see this ; we felt
grateful that our labor had not been in vain, and re-assured as to the
strength it was said to possess.
We now endeavored to get into a proper position to tow the bark,
but after several ineffectual attempts, were obliged to give it up in despair.
Both the steamer and the bark were almost completely at the mercy of
the elements ; the hawser got under our wheels, and serious apprehensions
were felt that it would interfere with their action. Fortunately, they
escaped without damage ; but we had hardly got clear of it when the
ship was observed drifting down upon us with such rapidity as rendered a
collision inevitable. From the moment her anchor was slipped she be-
came unmanageable, and although every effort was made to get her bow
in a straight line with our stern, it was found impossible to do so. There
seemed to be some terrible fatality hanging over her, and as she came
down stern foremost upon our bow, our worst fears were excited for the
safety of both vessels. The propeller was lying off at a distance of two
or three hundred yards, but she could render no assistance, and any at-
tempt she might make would only render the matter more serious.
The scene on board our steamer was painfully exciting ; every one
crowded to the larboard side, awaiting the collision with breathless anxiety.
The captain, as soon as he discovered the imminence of the danger, gave
orders to reverse the wheels, and we were now moving out of the way of
the ship, but so slowly that we appeared to make no progress. " Back
her I back her !" he cried out to the first mate, who passed the order to
the engineer. " Back her I why don't you back her ?" roared the captain
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
89
of the Sarah L. Bryant ; but the ships appeared to be drawn together by-
some irresistible attraction, and in a few minutes after the order was given
they struck. The larboard bow of our steamer came in contact with the
stern of the bark ; but not with such violence as we anticipated. None
of our timbers were started, the only damage we received being two slight
scratches about five feet above the water line, while the bark was unin-
jured. Our escape appeared almost miraculous, for at one time it seemed
as if nothing could save us, but now that the fearful suspense was over the
excitement soon died away. The ladies were not on deck when the acci-
dent occurred, as they had in compliance with the request of the captain
retired to the cabin a short time before. They were ignorant of our dan-
ger, therefore, till it was all over.
We escaped as we have said, almost by a miracle, a serious catastro-
phe ; but we were not as yet clear of the bark, and more than once we
were near coming in contact again. It was found necessary to cut the
hawser on board the steamship, and to let her take care of herself until we
90 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
could get into a better position. As soon as we parted from her she
dropped her remaining anchor, still holding on to the submarine cable,
and we also came to anchor about the same time. We remained in this
state for about an hour, when we saw two or three flags or streamers run
up at half mast on board the bark — a signal of distress. Shortly after
she unfurled some of her sails, and stood out to sea. She had lost her
anchor, and to save herself from drifting on the rocks, was obliged to cut
the submarine cable, and stand off from the shore. In a few minutes we
were after her, and by a series of most skilful manoeuvres attached her to
our stern by a hawser. When we first approached her, several efforts
were made to throw a rope over her side, but without success, when our
captain changed the position of our vessel so as to let her drop under our
stern, and allow a rope to be flung to one of the men on her bowsprit.
The rope was caught, the hawser hauled on board, and in less than a quar-
ter of an hour we had her safely in tow. Four cheers were given to Cap-
tain Turner, for the skill he displayed in the management of his vessel,
and they were well deserved.
During this difficulty the bark lost two of her anchors, and the
steamer was obliged to part with one of hers, leaving only two between
both vessels. Both of these belonged to our steamer, but as it was impos-
sible for her to return near the land without some security, our captain
was obliged to give her one of his own.
The 26th being Sunday we did not move from the Cove, and a
part of the day was spent in repairing the cable, which broke again soon
after. It was evident now that the portion which had been laid must be
abandoned, and that it should be relanded and secured anew to the fasten
ings in the telegraph house.
jnii»<^fi-
TAKING THE CABLE ASHORE.
CHAPTER IX.
'^ an early hour on Monday morning the 2tth, the Victoria
took the bark in tow, and brought her within a distance of
about six hundred yards from the beach. The cable was then
placed upon the boats, as described in the preceeding chapter,
successfully landed, and placed in connection with the batteries. A stiff
breeze from the northwest however prevented the prosecution of the work,
an^ it was deemed advisable to defer it till the next morning. Outside
the Cove the waves ran so high that any attempt to lay the cable would
endanger the safety of both vessels. That day therefore, we remained at
anchor, and flattered ourselves with the hope that the weather would soon
prove more auspicious.
The following morning was all that could be desired ; the waves had
92 A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
subsided to a gentle ripple, there was scarcely a cloud to dim the brif^iit-
ness of the sun, Cape Bay appeared resptendent in his beams, and every-
thing seemed to favor the enterprize. As the first dawn of morning tinged
tlie eastern horizon, the bark raised her anchor and was towed out to
our steamer, which lay at a distance of half a mile from the beach. In
less than an hour she was attached to the James Adger with a hawser,
and the process of laying the cable was commenced in earnest. All our
delay seemed trifling in view of our certainty of success — for no one enter-
tained any doubts now of its success, so long as the weather proved favor-
able. The first two miles of the cable were laid without an accident, but
just as they were commencing on the third a kink occured in it, and it
was found necessary to stop the steamer to repair the damage. In tlie
course of an hour all was set right and we were under way again ; but
in a few minutes more the white flag which had been agreed upon as a
signal before starting, was displayed, and we were obliged to stop. Mr
Canning afterwards said, that the speed of the steamer, even at its lowest
rate, was too fast for the purpose, and that it was almost impossible for his
men to pay out the cable with sufficient rapidity. Eight were employed
in the hold turning out the coils, and eight more in attendance on the
machinery. The position of those in the hold was one of considerable
danger, and two or three were severely bruised by the cable as they were
in the act of uncoiling it. It required their constant vigilance, and great-
est activity to keep clear of it as it swept up through the hold, for if once
caught within its folds, the consequences would have been serious, if iiot
fatal. To avoid this, they stood on the outside of the coil, raising it up
and passing it out at the rate of two, and sometimes, three miles an hour.
Several kinks occured up to twelve o'clock on Tuesday night, and it
was reported on board of our steamer at one time that the cable had
l)artcd. This report, however, was found to be incorrect, and it was nscer-
ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 93
tained that it only required splicing, and that it had to be cut to splice it
successfully. This was a tedious task, and took till 1 o'clock the follow-
ing morning to accomplish. From this till four in the afternoon they had
very few stoppages — the machinery worked admirably — and although our
steamer was still somewhat too fast, the cable was paid out with less diffi-
culty than had been experienced before. Up to this time they had to pay
it out from the small coil in the bow of the vessel, but the work was not
so arduous when they reached the larger one, which lay in the main hold.
The kinks, therefore, became less frequent ; and as we were now within
sight of St. Paul's, which was about fourteen miles distant, we felt elated
at the prospect of landing it there in a few hours more. We were, it is
true, somewhat discouraged by a break taking place in two of the three
copper wires, one only having remained perfect. Still, strong hopes were
entertained that when once landed, all the wires would be in good work-
ing order. Forty miles of the cable had been paid out from the time we
started, while the actual distance traversed did not exceed thirty-two at
the utmost. It was, therefore, considered advisable to land it at the island
of St. Paul's, instead of Cape North, as was at first proposed, and to
make the connection next year. Not more than thirty-three miles of the
cable remained, and it was on making allowance for the loss on this, that
Mr. Canning reluctantly concluded to give up the design originally enter-
tained of running to Cape North.
At four o'clock the wind, which had been increasing for the last two
or three hours, blew with such violence as to render it impossible to con-
tinue the work on board the bark. The sea ran so high that it was only
at intervals we could discern those on her deck. The sky looked wild and
threatening, and the waves broke in spray over the decks of both vessels.
The ocean was covered with a mist that rendered objects, at the distance
of four or five mile": invisible, and St. Paul's Island could no longer be seen
94 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND.
To render our position still more critical another kink occurred in the
cable, and both vessels were compelled to lay to. They made several at-
tempts to repair the damage, but all was useless, the bark rolled with such
violence that the men could not work, and it was with the greatest diflfi-
culty they could even stand on the deck. Every eye was now fixed on
Mr. Canning, and they all waited with feverish anxiety for him to give
the order to cut the cable. They had for more than an hour abandoned
all hope of being able to land it, and their fears were aroused for their
own safety and that of the vessel. But Mr. Canning was unwilling to
give the word, still hoping, even against hope, that the gale would abate,
and that before morning he would be able to resume work. Although
both vessels were holding on by the cable, it showed no sign of parting,
and would doubtless have remained whole to the end, had it been con-
sidered prudent to hold on by it. It was at this juncture that its strength
was tested, and successfully proved. We had heard that it was capable
of holding a seventy-four in a gale of wind, but it seemed hardly possible
that even a rope of iron wire, not much more than an inch in diameter,
could hold two vessels under such circumstances.
When Mr. Canning refused to cut the cable, and there appeared to
be no prospect of the gale abating, the captain of the bark, Mr. Pous-
land, told him he would have to give the order, as the safety of his ship,
was now endangered.
" Mr. Canning," said he, " I shall be obliged to cut the cable.''
" You can do as you please," said Mr. C. in reply, for he would per-
sist no longer in his attempts to save it, particularly as it had now become
a matter of life and death. Tlie next minute the cable was cut, the white
flag which had been displayed on the bow for the last two hours was
lowered, and we were once more in motion with the bark in tow.
On board our steamer the paying out of the cable was regarded with
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
95
SARAH L. BRYANT AND JAMES ADGER LEAVING CAPE RAT.
the greatest interest, from the moment we started from Cape Ray Cove.
A watch of two hours was organized among the company, to be kept up
till we reached the place of destination. Two persons were appointed
on each watch, whose duty it was to attend to the signals on the bark,
and to stop our steamer when required. During the day time, the chief
engineer, Mr. Scott, assisted in this part of the work, and the passengers
will never forget the feelings with which they heard him call out to the
man at the engine to " Stop her," or the relief they felt when he gave the
word to " Hook her on, and let her slew." We dreaded the appearance
of the white flag, for it was an indication that something was wrong on
board the bark, and when it was lowered it seemed as if an oppressive
96 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
weight had been removed from our minds. But when the gale came on,
and the lives of all on board the Sarah L. Bryant, appeared to be in im-
minent danger, the interest became painfully intense. Although not more
than five hundred feet from us, we could only see those on her deck at
brief intervals. She plunged violently, and as she rose at times on the
crest of the waves, we could see at least o;i3 half of her keel. For two
long hours we watched her tugging at the cable, anticipating with
impatience the word to cut it ; but still she held on, and there seemed to
be no intention on the part of those in command to give the order. At
last the white flag disappeared, after an hour of painful suspense, and we
soon perceived that tlie cable had been cut. The order was immediately
given to our engineer to go ahead, but as there was some danger of the
hawser breaking, our steamer was not put under full headway. At one
time we were ourselves in a most critical condition, and were laboring
heavily in the trough of the sea. It was only for a few minutes, however :
our steamer was placed head to the waves, and we were soon out of dan-
ger. We now made as direct as possible for Sydney, going at the rate
of from two and a half to three miles an hour, and expecting to reach that
port on Thursday.
The evening previous to the day on which the cable was cut tlie
British war steamer Argus, Captain Purvis, which had been visible for the
last two hours, came alongside the propeller, and was spoken by Captain
Sluyter. Orders had been received by Admiral Fanshawe of the North
American station, from the British Board of Admiralty, to render any
assistance in his power to the vessels employed in laying the cable. Tiie
order was transmitted to Capt. Purvis, who immediately set out from
Halifax, but unfortunately arrived too late for the purpose. He asked
Capt. Sluyter if he required any assistance.
98 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
" Are you in want of assistance ?" lie inquired, when the propeller
came within speaking distance.
•* No," was the reply.
" Are you short of coal ?"
" Yes, rather."
" Is the other steamer short of coal also ?" he again asked.
" Yes, we are both short."
" Then I shall lie by you all night, and if you should need assistance
you shall have it."
True to his word, Captain Purvis remained by us, and as we saw the
green and red lights of his steamer gleaming through the darkness of that
long and weary night, we enjoyed a feeling of security for those on board
the bark we had not felt for hours before.
About seven o'clock on Thursday morning, the Argus came along-
side again, and we observed one of her men holding a black board on her
paddle box, having the following inscribed in large letters upon it : —
CAN WE RENDER YOU ANY ASSISTANCE ?
Our captain shook his head in reply, but the Englishman was not
satisfied with this, and taking a short turn, came back and again displayed
his black board, with the following words : —
ANSWER YES, OR NO ! AS I AM ON MY PASSAGE.
This was definite enough and required an explicit answer, which was
given promptly. A piece of chalk was produced, and the significant
monosyllable " No," written in gigantic characters on the side of our
smoke stack. This was suflBcient, and in a few minutes more the Argus
left us ; but long after she disappeared beyond the horizon we could trace
her course by the black line of smoke which she left along the sky.
ENCAMPMENT OF MICMAC INDIANS.
CHAPTER X.
were now, as we have said, on our way to Sydney, which
was about seventy miles distant. On Thursday morning the
gale abated considerably, and about three o'clock the sea had
become settled enough to allow a boat to be sent from the
bark. Four of our company, Mr. Canning, and five of the steamer's
crew, came in her, and as they jumped upon deck were received with a
welcome that came from the very depths of our hearts. Mr. Canning
'wi»S: conducted to the fore cabin by Mr. Field, where we were all assem-
bled, and where he was greeted with three enthusiastic cheers. It was a
gratifying assurance, after all his labor and anxiety, that his services were
appreciated, and that, although the attempt to lay the cable had proved a
failure, he had done all that human energy could accomplish, and the fail-
ure was in no degree attributable to any neglect or want of proper pre-
caution on his part. It was a matter entirely beyond his power, or that
100 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
of any other man ; he hoped to the last, and only yielded when Captain
Pousland decided that the safety of all in the bark demanded the sacrifice
of the cable. His appearance and that of his associates once more in onr
midst was a glad sight to us all, for we entertained the most serious appre-
hensions for their safety. If the hawser, which was the only connection
between the vessels, had parted during the gale, we would have found it a
dangerous task to take her in tow again. To its great strength, therefore,
we were in no small degree indebted for the safety of our friends.
On Thursday afternoon about four o'clock, we took a pilot on board,
and an hour after we were safely anchored opposite the coal wharf of
North Sidney. Our stay here was much longer than we anticipated, but
we made the best use of our time, and before our departure had formed
numerous acquaintances and were tolerably well posted up in the character
of the place and its people.
Sidney has a population of about five thousand persons, and is one
of the most flourishing towns of its size in the British Colonies. It is the
great coal depot of Cape Breton, and carries on an extensive commerce
with Boston. The principal working coal mine, which is three miles from
the port, employs about two hundred men and from thirty to forty horses.
Tlie coal is raised through a perpendicular shaft three hundred and sixty
feet in depth, and the mine is ventilated by an immense furnace. The
daily product is from six to seven hundred tons, which are transported
over a railroad to the head of a self acting inclined plane, from which it
is delivered by means of a schute into vessels. All our passengers with a
very few exceptions went to the coal mines and some of them brought
away several curious fossil remains in remembrance of their visit.
The town of South Sidney is situated on the other side of the bay,
and is distant from North Sidney five miles by water, and by land about
thirteen. Constant communication is kept up by a little steamboat which
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 101
runs three times a day between North and South Sydney. While here, we
visited an encampment of Mic-mac Indians who had pitched their tents, or
wigwams, on a hill overlooking the harbor. They numbered about one
hundred, and lived chiefly by making baskets and Indian ornaments for
which there was an extensive demand among our passengers.
The whole encampment of men, women and children were kept con-
stantly employed during our visit ; and before we left our berths, were
full of baskets of all sizes and shapes, canoes, bows and arrows, mocassins,
caps and other articles of Indian handicraft. The women performed the
greater part of this kind of work, while the men were generally employed
as laborers in the town. In their dealings with us we found them scrupu-
lously honest and willing and ready to do whatever work we required of
them. Some of the women were really beautiful, judged by the Indian
type of beauty ; but they had a milder expression than is generally found
in the Indian countenance. They were in a perfectly civilized state,
although judging from the condition in which they lived, their knowledge
of the comforts and luxuries of civilized life was very limited. Yet though
in a state of comparative poverty, and sometimes in actual want of the
necessaries of life for two or three days at a time, they would not change
positions with the wealthiest denizen of the Fifth Avenue. Our visit to
their encampment created quite a commotion among them, and we proved
such good customers that our departure was regarded with a general feel-
ing of regret.
" You no go 'way soon," said one to us, the day before our depart-
ure. " We make much baskets for you — you no go 'way for long time."
Notwithstanding their pressing invitations to stay " long time," and the
strong inducements they held out of making " much baskets," it must be
confessed we were anxious to get away and see friends and home again
102 A TRIP TO N K W F O U N D L A N D .
We began to feel home sick, and the last few days of stormy weather did
not as may well be supposed, lessen the feeling.
The Sarah L. Bryant was left at Sydney where the remaining thirty
three miles of the cable were taken ashore, and the propeller Victoria
took her departure for St. Johns at an early hour on Sunday morning,
September 2d. A few hours later we started for home, and after a favor-
able passage of three days arrived within sight of Long Island, about five
o'clock on the morning of the 5th. Our pilot, Mr. Thomas Vail, who
came with us from New York, now took charge of our steamer, which
arrived safely at pier No. 4, North River, on Wednesday, September 5tli.
The evening before our arrival in New York there was a pleasant
reunion of the whole company in the after cabin. It had been announced
that morning that we were to have a fancy dress ball, and that all who
attended with the intention of taking part in the dancing must appear in
costume. The affair was got up by the ladies, and as every one was in-
vited, every one of course was present. Jem Bags made his appearance,
and in the fanciest of fancy costumes. Then there was Ophelia, a merry,
laughing sprightly Ophelia too, who appeared to be on the best of terms
with the wandering minstrel. Mother Hubbard danced with Mo-che-ta-
boo, one of the great chiefs of the Whiskee-Friskees — and little Red
Riding Hood, personated by one of our young friends, was protected from
the frequent attacks of an imaginary wolf by the blackest of Jim Crows.
There were kings and nobles who fraternized with Democrats and Red
Republicans of the most radical stamp. Ancients and moderns leaped the
wide gulf of centuries to dance the Polka and Schottische together.
Richard Coeur de Lion took snuflT with William Penn, and one of the Pil-
grim fathers, with the most utter disregard of all blue laws, went through
a cotillon with a grace that would have done credit to any dancing-master.
It was a grand amalgamation in which the past and the present were
A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 103
blended together in the most pleasing harmony, and opposite characters
associated with each other on the most friendly terms. It was late that
night before our fancy dress ball broke up and all retired to rest. The
next morning we were all on deck at an early hour and looking with earn-
est eyes on the low coast of Long Island which was gradually rising before
our view like a new creation in the midst of the ocean. In a few hours
more we would be home, and never did hours appear longer than those.
While off Sandy Hook, a meeting of the passengers was held in the
after cabin, to express their thanks to the New York, Newfoundland and
London Telegraph Company, for the many courtesies they had received
at their hands during the excursion. Rev. Dr. Sherwood presided, and
Dr. L. A. Sayres officiated as secretary. On motion, a committee of five
was appointed to draw up a series of resolutions expressive of the feelings
of the meeting. The committee reported the following, which were unan-
imously adopted : —
Resolved, That our warmest thanks are due to the New York New-
foundland and London Telegraph Company, and especially to their repre-
sentatives, Peter Cooper, Esq., and Cyrus W. Field, Esq., for the munifi-
cent hospitality to which we are indebted for the delightful and interest-
ing voyage which is now drawing to a close — a voyage which has made us
acquainted with places little known, enriched our minds with a store of
valuable recollections, and cheered us with the warmth of social inter-
course.
Resolved, That while we offer our heartfelt sympathy to the Tele-
graph Company for the unsuccessful issue of their attempt to lay the sub-
marine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton, on account of un-
favorable weather and unforeseen difficulties, we have entire faith that the
untiring energy and perseverance which have characterized their labors
hitherto, will ensure their final triumph and enable them to conduct to its
speedy fulfilment one of the grandest enterprizes of the present day.
104 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
Resolved, That we tender our thanks to Capt. Turner and the officers
of the steamer James Adger for their courtesy and attention on the
voyage. Signed by the committee.
Wm, M. Swaim. Lewis A. Sayre.
John Mullaly, Bayard Taylor.
J. M. Sherwood. Jaues S. Sluyter.
On the adoption of the foregoing, Mr. Cooper and Mr. Field returned
their thanks, on behalf of the company ; after which an impressive prayer
was made by Rev. Dr. Field. The meeting then adjourned.
We cannot allow this opportunity to pass without returning our sin-
cere thanks to Mr. Cooper, Mr. Field, Captain Turner, the purser of the
steamer, Mr. Tisdale, and the other officers of the vessel, for then: courtesy
and kindness towards us on every occasion.
The excursion, although it failed in its principal object — the laying,
of the submarine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton — yet, as
a pleasure trip, was most successful. Next year, with the advantage of
tlie experience which the company have gained, they will, it is to be hoped,
be enabled to accomplish the great enterprize in which they have em-
barked. It is one in which not only the United States, but the whole
world, are deeply interested — for upon its success depends that of the
Transatlantic Telegraph by which the Union of the Old and New Worlds
is to be accomplished. That it may succeed, should be the earnest desire
of all.
APPENDIX.
If June 1851, Mr. H. B. Tebbetts of the City of New York associated
with him several influential gentlemen for the purpose of organizing a
company to build steamers of a large size, to run between the ports of
New York and Galway, Ireland. These ships were to be specially adapt-
ed to perform the mail service between the two continents, and to accom-
modate the large emigrant travel from Ireland to the United States.
In originating this enterprize, Mr. Tebbett's conceived the idea of the New-
foundland telegraph which Is at present so prominently before the public. Confi-
dent of the practicability of the project, he entered into a correspondence with
diflferent members of the Government of Newfoundland in regard to the subject,
and with the view of making St. Johns a port of call for the steamers to and
from Galway. He was assured that his plan was perfectly feasible and that the
Government would make liberal grants and concessions to secure its accomplish-
ment.
Soon after, the Government ordered a survey to be made, and on its comple-
tion sent the Engineer with his report and a letter of introduction from Mr. S. G.
Archibald, dated December 17, 1851, to Mr. Tebbetts. The introduction resulted
in the offer of the liberal sum of twenty thousand dollars by Mr. Tebbetts to the
Engineer on condition, that he would return and procure such a charter from the
Government as he desired. The offer was accepted, the Engineer returned and
succeeded in procuring the required charter which was granted in March 1852, and
under which Mr. Tebbetts organized an association entitled, " The Newfoundland
Electric Telegraph Company."
When Mr. Tebbetts first conceived the project it w^as his design to run small
steamers across the Gulf of St. Lawrence between Cape Ray and Cape North,
the proposed termini of the land lines in Newfoundland and Cape Breton. This
was the only means of communication, as up to this period every attempt to manu-
facture a submarine cable had been attended with a signal failure. Shortly after,
106 APPENDIX.
however, it was discovered that by means of gutta percha, the conducting wires
could be completely insulated, and in less than a year the first cable was laid
between France and England a distance, of twenty-six miles. This great achieve-
ment was performed in September, 1851.
The success of this cable led to the abandonment of the plan of running
steamers between Cape North and Cape Ray, and to a change in the proposed
route of the line. It was decided that the line should run from New Brunswick
to Prince Edw^ard's Island and thence to Newfoundland. The company accord-
ingly ordered a submarine cable to be made, which was successfully laid down in
September 1852, between New Brunswick and Prince Edward's Island — a distance
of ten miles. This was the first laid on this side of the Atlantic.
After expending about one hundred thousand dollars in the prosecution of
the work, numerous embarrassments arose and the company was eventually obliged
to suspend payment. Through the exertions of Mr. Tebbetts, however, the gentle-
men now engaged in the enterprize were induced to take hold of it, and they did
so with an alacrity which showed their confidence in its ultimate success. Its
practicability had been satisfactorily proved and it only required men possessing
the means and the energy to carry it to a successful completion. The property
of the old company was purchased by the new. Previous to the dissolution of
the " Newfoundland Electric Telegraph Company," the charter was surrendered
to the Government and the gentlemen who had now the control and management
of the enterprize proceeded at once with due diligence and energy to the accom-
plishment of the great work which they had undertaken.
The new association was organized under the title of the " New York, New-
foundland and London Telegraph Company," and is composed of the following
gentlemen : —
directors.
Peter Cooper, Cyrus W. Field,
MosEs Taylor, Marshaij. 0. Roberts,
Chandler White,
President, - - - Peter Cooper.
Vice President, - - - Chandler White,
Treasurer, . - - Moses Taylor,
Electrician, - - - Samuel F. B. Morse.
These gentlemen having carefully weighed and considered the difficulties by
which the enterprize was beset, applied to the Newfoundland Government for a
new charter in which they obtained some additions to the privileges and grants
APPENDIX. lot
conferred in that procured by the old company. They were given the exclusive
privilege for fifty years, which was an increase of twenty over the former grant,
of running a telegraph across the Island, and through any of the adjacent waters.
In addition to this the government, realizing the great advantage such a work
would be in opening up the country and developing its resources, made them a
present of fifty square miles of land, which was twenty more than they gave to the
company organized by Mr. Tebbetts. Their liberality, however, did not stop here;
they also as an encouragement to the enterprize appropriated five thousand pounds
sterling, towards the construction of a bridle path across the island, a work indis-
pensable for the repair and regulation of the telegraph. The land was granted
with the privilege of selecting it in any part of the country, and the interest on
fifty thousand pounds sterling guaranteed to the company for twenty years. In
addition to all this fifty miles are to be given when the great 'IVansatlantic Tele-
graph is laid.
The company having now obtained all they had asked for, proceeded ener-
getically to work and, as a preliminary step made a contract with Professor Morse,
by which they secured the use of his patents and all renewals. An engineer and
assistants were engaged for the construction of the land telegraph across the island
from St. Johns to Cape Eay, and about six hundred men having been employed
operations were immediately commenced. The route over which it was proposed
to run the line is almost a wilderness and presents, one would suppose, an insuper-
able obstacle in the way of the enterprize ; but the men who had undertaken
it were not to be deterred by difficulties and they went to work with an energy
that ensures success. While they had operatives employed in clearing the wilder-
ness and constructing their line, they had others engaged in the selection and
exploration of the land granted by the Government. The services of three miner-
alogists were secured and their investigations resulted in the discovery of two coal
mines, one lead mine, and one of copper, besides valuable tracts of ship timber and
several quarries of alabaster and slate. The discovery of these, however, is only
one of the many benefits which it is expected the new telegraph will confer upon
Newfoundland. The length of the route which will be ti-a versed by the line of
the new company is seven hundred miles, and extends from St. Johns to Cape Tor-
mentine. Commencing at this cape, it runs through the Straits of Northumber-
land to Prince Edward's Island, a distance of ten miles and a half ; thence to
Cape East, thence to Cape Breton, and thence to St. Johns. A one wire cable
ten miles long has, already, as we have stated, been laid between New Brunswick
and Prince Edward's Island.
108 Ai>i'K\nix.
The company have entered into an a^reemjut with the companies whose lines
run from New York to New Brunswick, through Boston and Maine. But as the
great objects, to the accomplishment of which all these operations may be regard-
ed as merely preliminary, could not be undertaken without the assistance of some
telegraph company in Europe, they deputed one of their number to visit England,
for the purpose of securing the co-operation of one of the principal companies
there. The same success which attended them in their previous negotiations, fol-
lowed them here. A contract was made with the " Transatlantic Telegraph Com-
pany," composed of French and English capitalists, by which that company agreed
to construct and lay down at their own expense and risk, a submarine cable ex-
tending across the Atlantic to Newfoundland.
This line is to be not only completed according to the terms of the agree-
ment by the 22d of January 1858, but in successful operation. The contract also
binds the two companies, that is the Am?rican and European to operate in connec-
tion with each other to the exclusion of all other lines for the period of fifty years.
In the meantime it is intended to malce St. Johns a port of call for the steamers pass-
ing between the two continents, by which means wo can obtain news at least three
days earlier than we receive it at present. Among the many inducements which
this route presents to steamers there is one which cannot be overlooked : by stop-
ping at St. Johns a very considerable portion of the space which is taken up by
coal can be devoted to freight, as a sufficient supply of fuel can he obtained there
in a few hours. This fact alone will have great weight with the mercantile com-
munity.
14 DAY USE
RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
LOAN DEPT.
This book is d„e on the last date stamped below or
on the date to which renewed. '
_^enewedbooks are subject to immediate recall
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