uc-
SB 1T7 123
AURIC.
llBBABY
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA,
Class
THE AMERICAN WILD TURKEY.
Photographed for this work direct from Audubon's great colored picture,
painted from life.
TURKEYS
—AND-
How to Grow Them.
A treatise on the natural history and origin of the Name of Turkeys;
the Various Breeds, and Best Methods to insure success in
the business of Turkey growing. With Essays from
Practical Turkey Growers in different parts
of the United States and Canada.
EDITED BY HERBERT MYRICK.
With the assistance of Samuel Cnshman, late Poultry Manager Rhode Island
Experiment Station; Breeds and Show Points treated by H. S. Babcock, Sec-
retary Rhode Island Poultry Association and Editor American Standard
of Perfection; Articles by George Wolf, Judge of Turkeys at Chicago
Fat Stock Show, A. F. Greene of Massachusetts, E. Richardson »
of California, George Enty of Pennsylvania, J. F. Barbee of
Kentucky, and other famous breeders of Thoroughbred
Turkeys, or specialists in raising Turkeys for market.
COPIOUSLY ILLUSTRATED
U^1V£~31TY
OF
NEW YOKK
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1908
SF507
•MS .
fGRIC.
lIBBABY
Copyright, 1897,
BY ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
PREFACE.
No book in existence gives an adequate account of the
turkey, — its development from the wild state to the vari-
ous breeds, and complete directions for breeding, feeding,
rearing and marketing these beautiful and profitable birds.
The present book is an effort to fill this gap. It is based
upon the experience of the most successful experts in tur-
key growing, both as breeders of fancy stock and as rais-
ers of turkeys for market. In the preparation of the work
we make full use of the valuable and original work on tur-
key culture done at the Ehode Island Experiment Station,
quote from Harris' (English) Turkey Book, and print the
prize-winning papers out of nearly two hundred essays
submitted by the most successful turkey growers in
America. We have also given one essay on turkey cul-
ture, from different parts of the country, including Can-
ada and New Brunswick, that the reader may see what
ways have proven successful in each locality. A method
that succeeds in Tennessee might not do in Nebraska;
the cold winters of Vermont would kill the turkeys if the
systems were in vogue there that succeed in Southern Mis-
souri.
Much of the compilation has been done by Mr. Aaron
E. Greene, who includes also many points from his own
experience, as well as many points contained in the nu-
merous essays not printed, that will help to success in
rearing turkeys for profit and pleasure. It is thus hoped
that the book will be found comprehensive and useful and
to contain all that is of practical interest on this subject.
j .4 f2 t O
vi
TURKEY CULTURE.
EXTENT OF THE TURKEY BUSINESS.
We are also able to present some fairly accurate statis-
tics as to the extent of the poultry industry in the United
States. It is probable that the annual sales of turkeys for
meat exceed the number of turkeys enumerated by the
census of 1890— over 10,000,000. With the sales of breed-
ing stock and eggs, it is probable that the turkey trade of
the United States exceeds $12,000,000 annually. The prin-
cipal turkey-growing States appear in the tables below, and
the American Agriculturist has shown that the number in
the United States June 1, 1896, was over 12,000,000.
We also copy a table from that magazine, showing the tur-
keys in the principal turkey counties of these States, from
some of which choice breeding stock is shipped to all
parts of this country, England and Europe.
NUMBER OP TURKEYS IN EACH STATE ON JUNE 7, 1890, ACCORDING
TO THE FEDERAL CENSUS.
Total for United States, 10,754,060.
Maine
15,259
Missouri ,
928,751
New Hampshire
10,207
North Dakota
33,928
72,164
South Dakota
60 163
5 805
Nebraska . .
218 636
Rhodp Island
11,656
Kansas ...
530397
30 176
Kentucky
672 106
New York
402642
Tennessee
430333
162 270
Alabama ....
177 681
535 828
Mississippi .
194 398
Delaware
70',578
Louisiana
74,680
278 522
Texas
535 916
District of Columbia
215
Oklahoma..
5 931
Virginia
477,414
Arkansas
118,816
West Virginia
214,756
Montana
5 077
North Carolina
197 420
Wyoming
2 441
South Carolina
149,126
Colorado . .
20,872
Georgia
148,797
New Mexico .
928
Florida . .
34,426
2.744
Ohio .
521,171
Utah
9,220
Indiana
505,111
Nevada
4,193
Illinois
1,043 947
Idaho
6,433
Michigan
185 847
Washington . . .
17 187
Wisconsin
206 230
Oregon
43 555
Minnesota
151 459
California .
287 799
Iowa.....
940,849
10,754,060
PREFACE.
Vll
The principal turkey counties, showing the number
of turkeys in each in June, 1889, as returned by the census,
also the number on Jan. 1, 1896, as estimated by American
Agriculturist, are as follows:
Last three figures (OOO's) omitted.
VERMONT
Addison Co
1889 '96
72 83
12 14
Orange ............ 13 15
Windsor ............. 14 16
Others ............... 33 38
NEW YORK ............ 403 483
Erie Co .............. 5 6
Monroe . ............ 13 15
Onondaga ............ 15 18
St. Lawrence ......... 30 36
Steuben .............. 8 9
Others ............... 332 399
NEW JERSEY ........... 162 194
Burlington Co ........ 26 31
Hunterdon ........... 16 18
Mercer ............... 17 20
Monmouth ........... 22 26
Salem ................ 22 26
Others ............... 59 73
PENNSYLVANIA ........ 536 589
Berks ................ 23 24
Chester .............. 37 40
Lancaster Co ........ 30 33
Washington .......... 31 34
York ........... ..... 23 25
Others...., .......... 393 433
DELAWARE ............ 71 78
Kent. ............... 39 43
Newcastle ............ 12 13
Sussex ............... 20 22
MARYLAND ........... 279 307
Charles .............. 19 21
Frederick ......... 19 21
Harford .............. 16 18
Queen Anne .......... 24 26
St. Mary ............. 21 23
Others ............... 180 198
VIRGINIA .............. 477 525
Princess Anne ....... 18 20
Rockingham ......... 21 23
Tazewell ............. 13 14
Washington .......... 14 15
Wythe ............... 12 13
Others ............... 399 440
WEST VIRGINIA ........ 215 237
Greenbrier ........... 12 13
Harrison ............. 26 29
Lewis ................ 10 11
Monongalia .......... 10 11
Monroe ............. 12 13
Others ............... 145 160
NORTH CAROLINA ...... 197 207
Currituck ............ 6 6
Edgecombe .......... 5 5
Greene ............... 5 5
Lenoir.... .... 7 7
1889 '96
Nash 5 5
Others 169 179
SOUTH CAROLINA 149 156
Abbeville 6 6
Beaufort 13 14
Berkeley 8 8
Darlington 7 7
Edgefield 7 7
Others 108 114
GEORGIA 149 164
Bartow 3 3
Burke 4 4
Houston 3 3
Screven 4 4
Thomas "3 3
Others... 132 147
OHIO 521 599
Fairfield 8 9
Franklin 10 11
Montgomery 12 13
Preble 9 10
Others 482 556
INDIANA 505 581
Boone 11 12
Hendricks 15 17
Henry 13 15
Montgomery 13 15
Putnam 13 15
Others 440 507
ILLINOIS 1044 1252
Iroquois 30 36
Lee 21 25
Livingston 22 26
McLean 25 31
Vermilion 34 40
Others 912 1094
MICHIGAN 186 214
Kent 8 9
Lenawee 14 16
Monroe 7 8
Oakland 10 12
Washtenaw 13 15
Others 134 154
WISCONSIN 206 237
Columbia 9 10
Dane 17 20
Dodge 11 13
Fon du Lac 9 10
Rock 12 14
Others 148 170
MINNESOTA 151 166
Blue Earth 6 7
Faribault 7 8
Fillmore 7 8
Freeborn 5 6
Martin 6 7
riii
TURKEY CULTURE.
1889 '96
1889 '96
.... 941
1129
Bullock
7
7
Dallas
16
19
Dallas
9
9
Davis
16
19
Lowndes
11
12
Greene
27
32
Montgomery
11
12
Linn
16
19
Wilcox
6
6
Polk
16
19
Others
... 134
141
Others
.... 850
1021
... 194
204
MISSOURI
.... 929
1022
Hinds
7
7
Audrain
23
25
Madison
6
6
24
26
Monroe
7
7
Callaway
22
24
Noxubee
7
7
Monroe
24
26
Panola ,
5
5
Pike
23
25
Others
... 162
170
Others
.... 813
896
LOUISIANA
75
80
NEBRASKA
.... 219
241
Avoyelles
3
3
Clay
8
9
De Soto
4
4
Gage
7
8
Ouachita
4
4
9
10
Rapides
3
3
Saline
6
7
St. Landry
5
5
York
6
7
Others
56
69
Others
.... 183
201
TEXAS
... 536
643
KANSAS
... 530
583
Bell
12
14
18
20
Ellis
12
14
18
20
Payette
14
16
McPherson
13
14
Grayson
13
15
12
13
Lavaca
10
12
Sumner
15
17
Others
... 475
578
Others
.... 454
499
ARKANSAS
... 119
125
KENTUCKY
.... 672
706
Crawford
3
3
23
24
Jefferson ,
6
6
25
26
Phillips
3
3
Madison
27
28
Sebastian
3
3
Mercer
20
21
Washington ,
6
6
Shelby
20
21
Others
98
103
Others
.... 657
585
CALIFORNIA
... 288
360
TENNESSEE
.... 430
452
Colusa
15
19
Bedford
22
23
32
27
Giles
20
21
Sacramento
15
19
16
17
17
21
Maury
20
21
Tulare
40
50
Rutherford
19
20
Others
... 179
224
Others
.... 333
350
THE TURKEY.
CHAPTEK I.
THE TURKEY — ITS NATURAL HISTORY AND ORIGIN OP NAME.
BY E. RICHARDSON.
It is well known that the origin of the name of the do-
mestic fowl called the turkey is involved in much obscu-
rity. No dictionary that I know of gives its true etymology,
but the name is supposed to arise from the belief that the
bird came from the country of Turkey. It is the object of
the present essay to trace the origin of the bird and its
name, showing how the former came from the West and
the latter from a far Eastern clime.
The origin of the turkey is, however, not nearly so uncer-
tain as that of its name, for no fact of natural history is
better established than that it was introduced into Europe
from Mexico ; and as to the date of the introduction, there
can be as little doubt, for it is recorded by Prescott in hia
"Conquest of Mexico" that the followers of Cortez, soon
after their landing, first met with this bird on their march
to Cempoalla. It is told how they saw deer and various
animals previously unknown to Europeans, and among
them pheasants, and a species of peacock, as they described
it, which was none other than the Wild turkey, the pride
of the American forest and the progenitor of our proud
and stately domestic fowl. The introduction of the bird
into Europe naturally followed, as soon as circumstances
permitted, and not long after, — for in the month of July,
1519, Cortez dispatched his "first letter" to his emperor,
2 TURKEY CULTURE.
Charles the Fifth, with a collection of fabrics, minerals,
and other products of the New World. Three years later
he dispatched another communication, together with a
royal fifth of the spoils of Mexico, embracing a rich collec-
tion of all the products of the country, and it is not to be
supposed that the turkey was omitted, especially as it was
easily obtained. This consignment, however, was captured
by a French privateer and fell into the hands of Francis
the First, who is said to have gazed with wonder and envy
upon the spoils of the Aztecs, and to have expressed the
wish to see the clause in Adams' last will and testament
that authorized his imperial rivals of Castile and Portugal
to divide the New World between them.
Prescott further says, in describing the manners of the
Mexicans: "The table was well supplied with substantial
meats, especially game, of which the most conspicuous
was the Wild turkey, erroneously supposed, as its name sug-
gests, to have come originally from the East." He also
says that this noble bird was introduced into Europe from
Mexico, where it was domesticated, and was very common
and abundant not only in Mexico, but all along the
continent.
Thus we see how history records its introduction into
Europe and refers to the error of supposing it to have
come from the country so called. The Spaniards recog-
nized its relation to the peacock by calling it gallopavo,
the name of the true or Indian peacock being pavon.
Naturalists place it in the same order in which are in-
cluded pheasants, quail, etc. The peacock is the proud
ornament of this order, and, as I have said, is a native of
India, and is mentioned in the history of the East. His-
tory further tells us that the turkey was first brought to
England in 1524, five years after Cortez first sent specimens
to Spain. At first it was only in the hands of the rich, as
naturally would be the case, but in course of time became
accessible to the poor as well. So much, then, as to the
THE TURKEY. 3
origin of the bird itself, in which is shown how it is a
native of Mexico, and was introduced into Europe by the
expedition of Cortez to the New World, and called by his
followers the "American" or "Mexican" peacock, from
its habit of strutting.
Strange, then, how the bird came to be called turkey, a
word in no way similar to the Anglo-Saxon pawa, the Ger-
man pfau, the French paon or the Latin paw, all names
similar to one another and derived from the Latin, the bird
having been brought from the East by the Romans. The
mystery then is how, in view of all these facts, the name
"turkey" came to be applied to this bird. It is obvious
that we must look to some other language for a solution of
the problem. Going to the far-off home of the peacock, we
find in the Tamil language of India, a word toka, peacock,
the primitive meaning of which refers to a train or trail-
ing skirt. This word, adopted into the Hebrew language,
becomes tukki, and by a slight change by the genius of the
English language, becomes what we are looking for, turkey.
But, it is asked, How came it through the Hebrew ? Let
it be said, then, that at the time of the expedition of Cor-
tez to Mexico, the despised and persecuted Jews were very
numerous in Spain, and engaged, as they usually are, by
their natural adaptability for gain, in merchandising.
Their acuteness led them to deal in foreign birds, and curi-
osities and rarities, by which they reaped large profits, as
these things were only purchased by the rich. Naturally,
then, they saw in this new importation an opportunity for
gain, which they seized, and as they used their own lan-
guage as much as possible, it was not long before the He-
brew name for peacock became well known. Doubtless they
designated . it as the "American" peacock, for it was well
known from whence it came. Thus it would be that the
word tuJcJci would constantly be heard in the market places,
while the more scientific name of pavo would only be heard
among the educated few, and so by force of numbers the
4 TURKEY CULTURE.
name was used and anglicised into turkey, a name that gives
rise to pleasant fancies about Thanksgiving day. Further-
more, the name was formerly spelled turky, as when Corbet,
Bishop of Oxford, writes to Buckingham :
"Like very poore or counterfeit poore man, who, to preserve their
turky or their hen, do offer up themselves."
In tracing the word to the Hebrew, the rules governing
etymologies have been complied with, since here we have
preserved the radicals t and fc, which fact only tends to
prove the origin of the word, according to the views here-
in set forth. And thus we see how the American peacock
was introduced by Cortez to its gaudier Eastern rival, and
received its ancient name, and how these proud birds of
the Eastern and Western hemispheres became united to
each other by a name which, traced backwards, reveals
facts of linguistic interest, no less than the affinities and
glories of earth's most important feathered tribes.
CHAPTER IL
THE WILD TURKEY (Meleagris ffallopavo).
BY GEORGE ENTT.
Every American has heard of these birds, and not a few
have seen them hanging in the market stalls of the large
cities in some parts of the country, while a much smaller
number have seen them alive in all the glory of their
woody surroundings. And though he has never seen one
alive or helped to kill or eat one, I believe there is not an
American to-day who is not proud of this king of the for-
est. And well may we all be proud of our Wild turkeys,
for of all of our useful birds it is the only one domesti-
cated and made to serve our purpose to the fullest extent.
Once found all along the Atlantic coast, all through the
territory now known as Mexico and the Central American
States, and in the great interior plain of North America,
the turkey in a state of nature is to-day limited to the
mountainous regions of New York and Pennslyvania, Vir-
ginia, the Carolinas, Tennessee, a few in Kentucky, some
parts of the Gulf States, and rare sections of the Western
States. Like all game, it is rapidly giving way to the in-
cessant warfare of dogs, guns and hunters. The loggers go
into the forest, followed soon by the farmer and his boys,
and the poor turkeys lose their right to the land and to
their claim on life. Thus it goes on all sides, and it will
not be many years before they become almost as much of
a rarity as a wild buffalo ranging his Western prairies.
The habits of the turkey have not changed much by do-
mestication. The bird has become less shy and timid, but
hardly less watchful. It nests now along a fence, or in a
bunch of weeds, grass or briers, where formerly it sought
5
6 TURKEY CULTURE.
the most secluded spots along the mountain side. It
roams with its young now in the wheat stubble, through
the growing corn, and over the mown meadows and short-
cropped pasture land, while its wild sister scratches among
the leaves of the distant chestnut ridge, or gleans among
the open oak glades for food. But although the first ex-
plorers of this continent found the turkey domesticated by
some of the Indian tribes, yet to this day many of the
Wild traits show plainly in the common turkeys of the
farm. And these latter probably have had no infusion of
Wild blood for a hundred years, or more in many instances.
Wild turkeys in their native haunts are remarkably alert,
cautious, and apparently possessed of a large share of rea-
soning powers. It is something wonderful, the manner in
which they elude the oldest and most experienced hunters.
My grandfather said that the whole countryside of gun-
ners were out on the watch for a renowned albino gobbler
that ranged the hills along the Allegheny river, in his
young days, and although the spotless-white bird was fre-
quently seen, on a bright morning or evening, flying from
one hilltop to another, yet it was two or three years be-
fore he at last fell before the unerring aim of one of my
grand uncles. And it was a source of much chagrin to my
youngest brother, then a lad, not to be able to locate Min-
nehaha's nest the first season we had her. She was a full
Wild hen, one year old, obtained from the mountains in
central Pennsylvania, and was the beginning of our efforts
at crossing Wild and Bronze turkeys, to improve the plum-
age and hardiness of the latter. But watch and trail hei
as he might, and with all the casual assistance a half-
dozen brothers and sisters could give him, our turkey-hunt-
ing expert could not find the Wild hen's nest until after
the poults were hatched and away. This, too, in a place
where the woods were in small and isolated tracts. Early
in the spring the largest and strongest gobbler drives off
the weaker ones, and assumes a royal charge of the flock
THE WILD TURKEY. 7
of hens about him. The young gobblers meekly stay with
the flock until it breaks up for nesting; but any old gob-
blers in the flock leave it at once if they discover they
cannot rule, and live in solitude, excepting that, attracted
by his beauty, or perchance out of pity, or on account of
some dislike for the ruling gobbler, some hen consorts
with the banished bird, and shares his solitude. Again,
two or three young gobblers will be found together, living
in peace and plenty during the pleasant summer months.
The nests are made exactly as the domesticated turkey's,
and the number of eggs laid by one hen ranges from eight
or nine to 18 or 20. The eggs are more thickly spotted
with reddish-brown dots and blotches than those of tame
turkeys or of all other than Bronze turkeys. They are not
as large as domestic turkeys' eggs, yet a nest is occasion-
ally found with eggs as large as White Holland eggs. If
the eggs are taken from the nest and hatched under a do-
mestic turkey, the young poults will run off tc the forest
as soon as hatched. This experiment in domestication
was frequently tried by an uncle of the writer, who passed
his youthful days in the midst of the finest Wild turkey
county in Pennsylvania.
The little poults are very hardy, and, like quail and
grouse, frequently mature without the loss of a single bird.
The mother turkey takes most excellent care of her family,
leading them slowly and carefully about the woods, turn-
ing over the dead leaves in search of worms, etc, and find-
ing the wild berries in season, where the poults soon fill
their little crops.
In late summer or autumn, several hens and their broods
frequently go in one flock, and then, with some old gob-
bler as chief, whose plumage glistens like a leaf of gold,
and emeralds, and garnets, and all the hues of the rain-
bow, they range the hills, plains, mountains and valleys
in search of food. It is astonishing to the young hunter
what an extended amount of territory a flock will travel
8 TURKEY CULTURE.
in a day. I know a fast walker, while in the mountains a
few years ago, who every Sabbath took his rifle and fol-
lowed the trail of a large flock of Wild turkeys that kept
along the mountain side, or on its summit. Yet this hunt*
er never caught sight of the birds. A few lost feathers,
and an extended list of ruffled grouse and squirrels that
he could have shot had he not been expecting each minute
to discover the turkeys, was all the reward he got for
breaking the fourth commandment.
In autumn and early winter Wild turkeys are very
plump and fat, and are the first game birds of the land.
They are juicy and fat from long feeding on beechnuts,
chestnuts, acorns, berries, and in the neighborhood of
farms an occasional meal of wheat, corn, or buckwheat,
the whole seasoned and spiced by the rich insects gathered
in the forest, and made tender by the sharp frosts ; and the
purest meat food imaginable is produced by such constant
living in the pure air and wood-scented forests, with the
absence of all filth and vermin.
The painting of a Wild gobbler made by the great natu-
ralist Audubon, is perhaps the best ever made, and will give
a good idea of what a fine two-year-old gobbler is like.
The hens are less brilliantly colored, but are finely marked,
and the "rainbow tints" are more brilliant than the
coloring on many Bronze gobblers seen at the fairs and
poultry shows. My father shot an old gobbler which he
thought would have weighed 25 Ibs had it been fat. It
was early in the spring, when turkeys are always lean. This
bird, when cut up and salted, filled an empty powder keg.
(Kegs hold 25 Ibs of blasting powder. ) A friend of ours in
MifElin county, Pa, raised a Wild gobbler which at matu-
rity is said to have weighed 32 Ibs. I think this weight
was only estimated, and it is known that few people are
correct judges of weight. And it may usually be taken
with considerable allowance when weights of pure Wild
hens are given much above 15 Ibs, and gobblers above 20
THE WILD TURKEY. 9
Ibs, while most hens weigh under 12 Ibs and most gobblers
under 16 Ibs.
But, although when compared with large Bronze, White
Holland, or Narragansett, the Wild turkey may appear
small, its power to so reinforce the constitutional stamina
of any turkeys with which it is crossed, and thus give prog-
eny of superior size, is well known to many turkey raisers,
while it is the only known way of retaining the brilliant
marking so characteristic of well-bred Bronze turkeys.
This fact should be better understood.
I can conceive of nothing more ornamental, taken all in
all, than a stately Wild gobbler, with his beard almost
touching the turf, his widespread tail with its black bars
and rich chestnut edging, his trailing wings, the crimson
and blue coloring of head and neck, and all the colors of
£y, and sea, and autumn leaves glistening upon each
feather — such a bird and his half-dozen mates strutting
about the lawn and shrubbery of a gentleman's grounds.
And no sight would be half as much appreciated by all
lovers of nature as such an one. It would instinctively
take the mind of the busy city resident back to his child-
hood on the farm ; or, if so unfortunate as to have been
born in town, back to his father's or mother's childhood,
as oft related to him ; back to the time when excitement
ran high when the Wild turkeys were discovered feeding
on the green wheat in spring ; back to the great Thanks-
giving hunt when father or brother brought in this noble
chief of the wood to crown the feast ; and back again to
the long summer days spent roaming through the forest in
search of juneberries, huckleberries, nuts, or wild grapes ;
and to the moment of supreme delight, when a flock of
Wild turkeys suddenly start up from some hiding place,
and with flashing eyes, spreading tails and notes of alarm
walk away, slowly, a few steps, and then, with a rushing
of brown leaves, like so many phantoms disappear in
the dim light of the distant wood.
10 TUEKEY CULTUEE.
May the day never come when it shall be said the noble
Wild turkey roams my native mountains no more.
THE WOOING OF THE WILD TUKKEY.
BY J. M. MURPHY
The males commence wooing as early as February in
some of the extreme Southern States ; but March is the
opening of the love season throughout the country, and April
the month in which it reaches its highest development. The
males may then be heard calling to the females from every
direction, until the woods ring with their loud and liquid
cries, which are commenced long ere the sun appears
above the horizon, and continue for hours with the stead-
iest persistency. As both sexes roost apart at this period,
the hens avoid answering the gobblers for some time, but
they finally become less obdurate, and coyly return the
call. When the males hear this, all within hearing respond
promptly and vehemently, uttering notes similar to those
which the domestic gobblers do when they hear an unu-
sual sound. If the female answering the call is on the
ground, the males fly to her and parade before her with
all the pompous strutting that characterizes the family.
They spread and erect their tails, depress their wings
with a quivering motion and trail them along the ground,
and draw the head back on the shoulders, as if to increase
their dignity and importance ; then wheel, and march, and
swell, and gobble, as if they were trying to outdo each
other in airs and graces. The female, however, pays little
attention to these ceremonious parades, and demurely
looks on while the rivals for her affection try to outdo one
another in playing the gallant and dandy. When the strut-
ting and gobbling fail to win her, the candidates for mat-
rimony challenge each other to mortal combat, and which-
ever is successful in the contest walks away with her in the
most nonchalant manner. The easy indifference of the
THE WILD TURKEY.
11
hen as to which she will follow may not be pleasing to
persons imbued with romantic feelings, yet she is only
obeying a wise law of nature, which decrees that only the
fittest should live, and in the lower animal world these
are necessarily chosen for their physical qualities.
The battles between the males are often waged with
such desperate valor that more than one combatant is sent
FIG, 1. TRAP FOR WILD TURKEYS.
to join the great majority, as they deliver very heavy blows
at each other's heads, and do not give up a contest until
they are dead, or so thoroughly exhausted as to be
scarcely able to move.
When one has killed another, it is said to caress the
dead bird in an apparently affectionate manner, as if it
12 TURKEY CULTURE.
were very sorry to have been compelled to do such a deed,
but could not help it, owing to the force of circumstances;
yet I have seen the winner in a tournament in such a rage
that it not only killed its rival, but pecked out its eyes
after it was dead. When the victors have won their brides
they keep together until the latter commence laying, and
then separate, for the males are so jealous that they would
destroy the eggs if they could, in order to prolong the love
period, and the hens, knowing this, carefully screen them.
The males are often followed by more than one hen, but
they are not so polygamous as their domestic congeners,
as I never heard of a gobbler having more than two or
three females under his protection. The adult gobblers
drive the young males away during the erotic season, and
will not even permit them to gobble if they can, so that
the latter are obliged to keep by themselves, generally in
parties of from six to ten, unless some of the veterans are
killed, and then they occupy the vacated places of the
bridegrooms, according to the order of their prowess.
Some aged males may also be found wandering through
the woods in parties of two, three, four, or five, but they
seldom mingle with the flocks, owing, apparently, to the
waning of their salacious disposition. They are exceed-
ingly shy and vigilant, and so wild that they fly immedi-
ately from an imaginary danger created by their own sus-
picious nature. They strut and gobble occasionally, but not
nearly so much as do their younger kindred. Barren hens,
which also keep by themselves, are almost as demonstra-
tive in displaying their vocal powers, airs, and feathers a*
the old males, whereas they are exceedingly coy and un-
pretentious when fertile. This fact would seem to prove
that ordinary animal nature is changed by circumstances.
When the love season is over, the males are very much
emaciated, so, when the hens leave them, they keep by
themselves until th^y recover their strengh, and then re-
unite in small bachelor parties; but, instead of being
THE WILD TURKEY.
13
exceedingly clamorous, as they were in the early part of
the mating period, they become almost silent. Yet they
sometimes strut and gobble on their roosts, though, as a
general rule, they do not, and content themselves with
elevating and lowering the tail feathers, and uttering a
puffing sound. They keep at this exercise for hours at a
FIG. 2. "CALLING" WILD TURKEYS.
time on moonlight nights, without rising from their perch,
and sometimes continue it until daylight.
When the hen is ready to lay, she scratches out a slight
hollow in a thicket, a canebrake, beside a prostrate tree,
in tall grass or weeds, oj a grain field, and lines it rudely
with grass or leaves, and then deposits her eggs in iu
14 TURKEY CULTURE.
These, which vary in number from ten to twenty, are
smaller and more elongated than those of the domestic
turkey, and are of a dull-cream or a dirty-white color,
sprinkled with brownish-red spots. Audubon says that sev-
eral hens may lay their eggs in one nest, and hatch them
and raise the broods together. He found three hens sit-
ing on forty-two eggs in a single nest, and one was always
present to protect them.
If the eggs are not destroyed, only one brood is raised
in a year ; but if they are, the female calls loudly for a
male, and when she is rejoined by one, both keep com-
pany until she is ready to commence laying again, when
she deserts him or drives him away, as he has the very
strongest penchant for destroying the eggs, in order to
keep her in his company. This forces her to build her
nest in the most secluded spot she can find, and to cover it
carefully with leaves or grass whenever she leaves it. We
present pictures showing how Wild turkeys are "called"
by hunters to them with whistles, and how they are
entrapped. When once enticed within this trap, they are
so confused as to be unable to find their way out. Fig 1
makes the trap plain. An inclined path or trench is ar-
ranged, which deepens gradually and ends inside the pen.
Corn is strewn over the bottom of the trench, the turkeys
follow along head down led by the corn until they are
inside, and then with heads up they see no way out.
CHAPTER IIL
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS.
There is less variation in the ordinary domestic turkey
than among common fowls, not so many being kept, and
more care being taken to keep them pure. The follow-
ing classification maybe considered as correct and is ac-
cepted by breeders:—
The Wild
The Domesticated
Mexican
Honduras
North American
American Mammoth Bronze
White Holland
Narragansett
Black
Buff
Slate or Lavender
The Mexican is generally considered to be the progenitor
of the common domesticated turkey, as is fully set forth.
The Honduras or Ocellated turkey, found in Central
America, appears to have baffled all attempts to domesti-
cate and rear it outside the tropics. It is said to possess
a plumage equal in brilliancy to that of the peacock, and
also to have the feathers of its tail "ocellated," or eyed.
The North American Wild turkey resembles the Mexican
in color, but rivals it in size. It is a somewhat longer bird
than the domesticated variety, and differs from it in an
Absence of pure white in any of its feathers, the pencil-
ings of its wings and the dull white or gray of its tail be-
ing of a chestnut color. Our second chapter treats in
detail of this superb progenitor of the useful domestic tur-
key. Audubon's fine painting is still the best portrai-
ture of this noble bird, and from it our frontispiece is pro-
duced. The Wild turkey is still of the most importance to
breeders, because fresh infusion of pure, wild blood into
15
16 TURKEY CULTURE.
our breeding stock seems to be necessary, to prevent de-
cadence of vitality, and to insure thrift and health in our
improved breeds— that is, for those who raise turkeys for
market.
THE BBONZE TURKEY.
H. 8. BABCOCK.
The Bronze is the largest variety among our turkeys.
The standard weights are : For cock 32 Ibs, cockerel 24 Ibs,
hen 22 Ibs, and pullet 15 Ibs. These weights, though high,
are often exceeded by the birds. Forty pounds and even
more are reached by the old toms, and we know of one hen
turkey which weighed, when we saw her, twenty-nine
pounds, and her owner expected her to reach thirty pounds
in a short time.
There is some obscurity about the origin of this variety,
although there is reason to believe that it resulted from
crossing the Wild turkey, the original of all the domesti-
cated varieties, upon the Black turkey. Early references to
the variety show that it was at first known as the "Black
Bronzed," but the term was too long and it became short-
ened into Bronze. This variety is interesting as showing
that, after a marked departure from the early color, it has
come back to very nearly the color of its Wild original.
The Black had departed a long distance from the rich hues
of the Wild turkey, but the lines are restored in the Bronze
variety.
The male has a long head, with good breadth of skull,
the rich red skin being carunculated. The strong beak is
well curved, and is of the color known as horn, darkest at
the base and growing light as it approaches the tip. The
eyes are dark-hazel in color, contrasting with the rich red of
the face and jaws. The wattle, or snout, is of the same
color as the face and of good size, and hangs down from
above. The long curving neck is clothed in plumage of
rich bronze. The back of the male, starting from its June-
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS. 1?
tion with the neck, rises in a gentle curve to about the
center, which is the highest point, and then descends to
the tail. The feathers are of the richest bronze, each end-
ing in a narrow band of black, and in the sunlight they
are indescribably beautiful. The broad, full and promi-
nent breast is covered with plumage of dark bronze. The
body is long, well rounded, and midway of its length
quite deep, and the feathers are black with bronze shad-
ings, less lustrous, though beautiful, than those upon the
back and breast. In fact, in almost all fowls kept by man,
the top plumage is much the richest, and is so, probably,
because of the effects of the sun upon it. Even in varie-
ties which are supposed to be uniform in coloring, like
the Buff Cochin, the upper plumage is much the richest in
coloring. The wings have a wide spread, and the muscles
are strong enough to enable the heavy bird to rise to a
considerable hight from the ground. The primary feath-
ers, when the wing is opened, are seen to be black or
nearly so, with more or less regular penciling of gray or
white. The secondaries are like the primaries but as one
counts from the primaries, they are seen to have more and
more brown and bronze, and less and less of white or gray.
The wing bows are black with a rich greenish or bronzy
luster, and the coverts are similar in color, each ending in
a broad band of black that makes a bar across the wings.
The long tail consists of feathers the ground color of which
is black, and across which are irregularly placed narrow
bands of light brown, terminating in a broad band of black
with a wide gray margin. The tail coverts do not differ
materially from the main feathers of the tail, except that as
they approach the back they grow richer in bronze shadings.
The stout thighs, of good length, are clad in dark, bronze-
colored feathers, and the shanks, which are long and stout in
bone, are in immature birds almost black, but in adult
birds they become flesh-colored. This fact will enable one
to decide with some certainty upon the age of a turkey.
' *'
16 TURKEY CULTURE,
As the female is colored very much the same as the male, ,
it will be unnecessary to describe her markings in detail.
But it is to be noted that the lines of the female are
never so rich as those of the male, that the markings are
apt to be less distinct, and that the margins of the feath-
ers are, as a rule, gray in color. Considered by herself
the female would be considered a very handsome bird, but
regarded in connection with her more richly colored mate,
she has a very sober and modest dress, as becomes her sex.
The Bronze is the most popular variety among turkeys,
due probably to its great size, and perhaps also due in
some measure to its increased hardiness, secured by the in-
fusion of Wild blood in its origin. At any rate, whatever
be the cause, the Bronze turkey is bred very largely, and
more largely than any other variety.
Mr Barber adds : "When the golden sun is slowly sinking
in the sky, what lovelier sight can meet the eye than a
flock of brilliant-hued Bronze turkeys, as they homeward
plod their weary way, to eat and drink, to roost, and per-
chance to dream of the fat grasshoppers they will find on
the morrow."
JUDGING BKONZE TUKKEYS.
BY GEORGE WOLFF.
[We presume the average reader will be interested to know that
Mr Wolff, although a paralytic since infancy, is one of the most expe-
rienced breeders and judges of turkeys. His being a cripple has made
him a close student in his work, and we believe lie has a more exact
knowledge of the Bronze breed and its markings and qualifications
than any living person.]
This exceedingly popular breed of Turkeys challenges
the admiration of all, with its lustrous plumage, strutting
carriage and prodigious size. It is, by all odds, the most
hardy breed of turkeys yet introduced. The standard
weight for Bronze turkeys is: Cock 32 Ibs, hen 20 Ibs,
cockerel 24 Ibs, pullet 15 Ibs. Some 15 or 20 years since,
such weights were considered enormous. But the major-
ity of the Bronze turkeys that are now found in our besfc
THE BREEDS OP TtJ&KE"?S. 19
breeders' yards exceed the above weights. It has been my
pleasure, on several occasions during the past few years, to
see, at our best exhibitions, adult toms turn the balance
at 38 to 45 Ibs, and hens 24 to 32 Ibs. If breeders will only
continue to mate for great size, the day is not far distant
when we will see birds of even a greater weight.
In judging, I am a strong advocate of specialty judges.
It is ripe knowledge in any business that prepares a per-
son for a successful undertaking. I do not believe there 13
a professional judge on the face of the earth who can suc-
cessfully compare or score the several different classes of
fowls he is sure to find at most of our exhibitions. Tur-
keys, particularly, often suffer, as many of our profes-
sional judges reside in cities and never saw a turkey, except
in the show pen or at their Thanksgiving dinner.
Great size and weight is the most necessary element of a
Bronze turkey. No matter how fine a specimen may be
in plumage, if it lacks size it drops back to nothing but
a mongrel.
To get the symmetry of a turkey in judging, is often
quite a tedious undertaking. It may require considerable
patience and coaxing to get the bird to stand in proper po-
sition, especially if it is a young bird that has never been
exhibited. A model show specimen should be moderately
tall and very rangy, evenly proportioned and well balanced
in all shape sections and very sturdy in appearance.
The color of the male turkey's head may change during
excitement, but when in a natural condition it should be
bright red, the corunculations extending well down on neck,
with a large, well-developed wattle. When scoring I find
but few judges who pay any attention to color or shape of
head. This is a mistake, as many specimens are faulty in
color and shape, and should suffer a cut of one-half to one,
according to the defect.
rl'he back must be well curved and of good width. Many
specimens are faulty in the back, being too straight and
TURKEY CULTURE.
PIG. 3. THE PRIZE BRONZE TURKEY.
rkis bird won the grand prize offered by the New York fanciers' club some years
ago. He was two years old, weighed forty-five pounds, and was bred by
Sherman Hartwell, of Connecticut. AVith seven fine hens, he was bought by
William Simpson, and exhibited at numerous poultry shows in England, cap-
turing prizes in every case, and proving superior to any English-bred turkeys.
The fine picture we present is from an instantaneous photograph by
taken for the American Agriculturist* and drawn by Keeler.
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS. 21
narrow. The breast must be full and nicely rounded,
but not to drop so low as to injure the form, as is some-
times seen in aged toms.
If a specimen is really brilliant in color, there is but lit-
tle chance to cut till you get to wing, back and tail, and
sometimes legs. The primary wing feathers must be black,
or nearly so, each feather to be evenly penciled with
white or gray bars. Many Bronze turkeys are very faulty
in primary color, as those feathers are very apt to be too
dull and irregular in penciling, especially as we near the
quill ends of those feathers. The secondary feathers are
not so clearly denned, and usually have a narrow edging of
white or gray on the outside web of feathers. As you leave
the center of secondary feathers, and count up towards the
back, the color rapidly changes to a bronzy brown, which
has more or less luster when seen in the sunlight. Occa-
sionally we find a specimen with solid black feathers, and
sometimes several of them in primary or secondary feathers.
They should be punished by heavy cutting. It is a grand
wing, indeed, that escapes with an honest cut of one point.
The standard calls for a black tail irregularly penciled
with narrow bands of light brown. It is a mistaken idea
for a judge to think a Bronze turkey must have a fully
penciled tail, for I find that brown predominates over the
black in most every instance with such tails, and if a per-
son continues to breed from birds with fully penciled tails,
we soon destroy the black band on tail covert, that is so
Liiuch admired by true Bronze turkey fanciers. Again, I will
say that where we use so much penciling we lighten the
color of thigh in many specimens, and I would advise judges
to be more lenient with tails containing less penciling.
Many years since, I discovered white penciling under the
tail covert on the main tail feathers of many Bronze tur-
keys. It usually confines itself to two or four of the cen-
ter feathers, and sometimes extends the entire length of the
tail feathers. It usually keeps out of sight from the ordi-
22 TtTBKEY OULTURE.
nary observer by not extending beyond the covert. The
markings are similar to those of primary wing feathers,
but are usually not so decided in white. I have examined
flock after flock for this defect, and find it every time.
This defect should be punished without mercy, and, I am
ashamed to say, many of our best breeders and judges have
never discovered it. Can you blame me for asking for
specialty judges? We often find the edging to tail covert
and lesser coverts, as they extend up the back, to be cinna-
mon in color. It denotes Wild blood and should be cut as
a defect, as such edging should be of a dull white or gray.
It is seldom that we find young turkeys as brilliant or
clean in wing color as aged birds. The female is like
the male in color, only not so clear or brilliant, and the
breast feathers must be edged with dull white, or gray. If
breeders and judges will only accept my advice, they will
find I am leading them to the brink of success.
THE BLACK TUKKEY.
H. S. BABCOCK.
It is quite probable that the Black turkey was produced
from the domesticated Wild, either by continuously select-
ing the blackest specimens, those showing the least ten
dency toward bands, or that through melanism a black
specimen or specimens sported from the common kind, and
became the foundation of this variety. The Black is a
long-established variety. In certain parts of England it
was, until quite recently, the favorite variety, and is known
there as the Black Norfolk, having been long bred in Nor-
folk. The introduction of the Bronze turkey into England
has done considerable, in recent years, to depose it of its
quondam supremacy. The Black is a handsome vari-
ety. All black fowls are handsome, American prejudices
to the contrary notwithstanding. Black plumage means
black beak and legs, or approximately so, with white skin.
Black is the most lustrous plumage we have. In the sun-
THE BREEDS OF TUBKEYS.
24 TURKEY CULTURE.
light the greens and purples are extremely beautiful. But
black in this country, owing to unreasoning prejudice, is
not a popular color. Only one black variety of fowls is
widely popular— the Langshan. The Minorca narrowly es-
capes being popular. But black ought to be popular, for
its wearers are usually hardy and always beautiful. So,
with this prejudice in view we need not wonder that Black
turkeys are comparatively few in number. The Black tur-
key should be black throughout. The American standard
makes "feathers other than black" a disqualification. But
despite this rigidity, the variety often "harks back" to
its banded ancestors, and bands will show on wing feath
ers and tail. These bands do not hurt the flavor of the
flesh, although they may prevent the bird from winning
a prize. If the breeders of Black turkeys will fatten all
that show these bands — marks of heredity — and use only
the solid-colored specimens for breeders, this tendency
will be reduced, though it is impossible to predict how
many generations it will take to obliterate it wholly.
The Black is a much smaller bird than the Bronze, and
appears to have deteriorated in size, possibly owing to the
breeders of this variety sacrificing the best birds at
Thanksgiving and Christmas for market, instead of retain-
ing them for stock. Some of the chicks have a little white
about the head. The adult male should weigh twenty-five
pounds or more, the hen twelve pounds.
WHITE HOLLAND TUEKEYS.
GEORGE ENTY.
A breed that is less widely known than the popular
Bronze turkey is the White Holland, or White turkey, as it
is called for short, yet birds of this breed are kept in consid-
erable numbers in some sections, and are becoming better
known, and each year more frequently seen among turkeys in
the shows and in the market. Like everything else on this
sphere, they have their good qualities and also their weak
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS. 25
points. But most persons, after keeping them a few years,
declare them to be the finest possible breed of turkeys, and
would on no account dispose of their flocks and change the
breed. But, after making due allowance for all over- de-
scription of the breed and its doings, it must be admitted
that it is worthy of a very prominent place among domes*
tic fowls.
The origin of this breed of turkeys is in doubt, and the
name is not a correct index to the locality of their origin.
They came probably from selecting the finest white tur-
keys found among the flocks, and by continuously mating
these white birds, a race of such fowls could be obtained
in time to breed true to this characteristic. But it has
been in America, and within the last 12 or 15 years, that
the greatest progress in developing the breed has been
made. The standard weights of this breed are as follows :
Cock 26 Ibs, cockerel 16 Ibs, hen 16 Ibs, and pullet 10 Ibs,
—lower weights than are required for any other breed.
This would naturally lead one unacquainted with the breed
to suppose it to be quite small. On the contrary, I have
seen numbers of cocks weighing 30 to 33 Ibs, hens 17 to 19
Ibs, cockerels 18 to 22 Ibs, and pullets 13 to 16 Ibs, showing
conclusively that the standard weights are too low. Mr
Peter Enty, who has had considerable experience with
these fowls, writes under recent date : "I dressed a young
gobbler last fall, six months and six days old, that weighed
16 1-2 Ibs dressed for market, and he was the nicest look-
ing bird I ever saw. His skin was transparent white, as
was the flesh, and with his red head, and the white .neck
feathers down to his beard and wing, tail and fluff feath-
ers on, he was a sight that would attract attention in any
first-class market. " Such a weight at six months reveals
the possibilities of large size and heavy weights in this
breed if people would try to bring them out.
Perhaps one reason why this breed has not been made
larger and heavier is because with the size as it now is,
26 TURKEY CULTURE.
they are just suited for ordinary family use. The largest
breeds are too large for most families, hence the smaller
breeds command readier sale. The great 40 to 46 Ib toms
must be sold on the holidays or Thanksgiving market if
sold at all. A plump young turkey dressing 8 to 15 Ibs will
sell readily at almost any season. Certainly the same size
can be had in any of the breeds, or with the common stock
of the farms, but not so readily, as a rule. I have on sev-
eral occasions seen large flocks of Bronze turkeys of a uni-
form size in which the hens weighed about 10 or 12 Ibs,
and the males 15 or 16 Ibs at Thanksgiving. White Hoi-
land turkeys have been so often extolled for their domes-
ticity, that it seems almost like sacrilege to tell a different
tale. And yet, after keeping several of the best-known
breeds for years, as well as the subject of this sketch, I find
that there is little if anything to choose between the sev-
eral breeds on the score of tameness. It has frequently
been said that White Hollands are weakly and hard to
raise, but I have known instances where every egg of a
clutch hatched, and every poult lived to maturity. A cor-
respondent says: "They must be hardy, or I could never
have raised any last year on this place, which is so damp
and cold that it is unfit to raise geese, or much less a ten-
der thing like a turkey." But hardy as I believe them, let
no one expect to find them of whalebone or iron, for they
are not. They will die if exposed to too much cold and
dampness, just like any other turkeys; they must be kept
free from lice, or they droop and die like any fowl ; and
they must be fed proper food in proper quantities, or they
will never live to grace a Thanksgiving table, or call forth
words of praise at the Christmas festive board. Then, too,
it must be remembered by all who should 'attempt to raise
White turkeys, that if hardy poults are wanted the breed-
ing stock must be hardy, well matured, properly kept, and
not closely related. More weak poults come into the world
to worry their owners during a brief existence, on account
THE BREEDS OF TUBKEYS.
28 TURKEY CULTURE.
of close breeding and poor selection of breeding stock,
than from any natural weakness in the fowls as a breed.
White Holland turkeys are perhaps the best layers among
turkeys. It is sometimes reckoned as a fault that few hens
want to hatch early in the season, and a large number of
eggs and no broody hens is not an uncommon occurrence.
This is no doubt the result of selection, as I have found the
progeny of a remarkably good or poor layer was of much
the same nature as regards prolificness. And again 1 have
seen hens of this breed hatch twice in one season ; others
become broody before laying a dozen eggs, and three times
ere they had laid the second dozen ; while others were hard
to "break up" when once broody. A friend kept four hens
a few years since which laid 264 eggs during the season,
one hen hatching and rearing a brood in July.
Are they beautiful? That is a matter of taste only. I
may think so, or may class some other breed above them
for beauty, while you will be of the opposite opinion.
Therefore I say nothing on this point. I believe them
to be a good turkey and worthy of the best efforts of
breeders and farmers in general, and think no one need be
seriously disappointed in them if he goes ahead properly
and knows what he is doing. Truthful pictures have been
practically unknown heretofore, but in the accompanying
engraving from nature of prize- winning White Hollands,
our artist reproduces on printed page a spirited but lifelike
view of these beautiful birds. * ' The White Hollar d turkey?
are bred in large numbers and when prepared for the table
are considered the finest flavored turkey we have, but are
less hardy than other breeds."
THE BUFF TURKEY.
H. S. BABCOCK.
Among the rarer varieties of the turkey is the Buff.
Just why this color should be rare is not plain to under-
stand, fpr few colors are more pleasing to the eye. If it
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS. 29
lacks the brilliant reflections of the Bronze or the irides-
cence of the Black, it has a beauty all its own. which
quite compensates for this lack. Delicate colors are not
necessarily indications of delicate constitutions. We have,
ft is true, long been influenced by the impression that
FIG. 6. BUFF TURKEY COCK.
white fowls are less hardy than colored ones, but this
impression would not apply to buff. The buff-colored
turkey is no more delicate than its darker cousins.
How it perhaps originated can be guessed, though we
have no records to tell us the matings or the maker oi the
30
TURKEY CULTURE.
matings. But, as black-red domestic fowls crossed upon
white often produce an approximation to buff, which, by
selection, can be perfected, we believe that a cross of the
Bronze and the White turkey, with subsequent selection,
would produce the Buff variety. In fact, many Buff tur-
keys show quite plainly the marks of such an ancestry. A
variety of the Buff turkey used to be bred in Pennsylvania,
under the name of Tuscawara Reds. These birds had a
deeper plumage than the ordinary Buff and resembled it
very much as a Rhode Island Red resembles a Buff Ply-
mouth Rock. We have not heard much about the Tusca-
wara Reds lately, and presume, therefore, that they did
not "catch on" to the public fancy.
The standard weights of Buff turkeys are somewhat
less than for the Bronze and Narragansett. A comparison
of these, with the White, will show fairly well how these
birds average in weight relation to each other.
Bronze.
Ibs.
Narragansett .
Ibs.
Buff.
Ibs.
White.
Ibs.
Adult cock,
Young cock,
Adult hen,
Young hen,
35
24
20
15
32
22
22
14
27
18
18
12
26
16
16
10
The Black and Slate varieties are of the same weight
as the Buff. The somewhat less weight of the Buff turkey
when compared with the Bronze or the Narragansett,
perhaps will account, in part at least, for its less popu-
larity, for big birds catch the eye, and people forget that
sometimes the smaller birds are quite as profitable to rear,
and actually sell better than the big ones. Not long ago
the writer noticed that the market quotations for turkeys
dressing from eight to ten pounds were higher than for
those of greater weight. The manager of the Anowon
Farm recently told the writer that their turkeys— all
Whites— had sold well, the price being thirty-five cents
per pound.
However originated, and whether popular or not, the
Buff turkey is one of the most beautiful varieties we have.
THE BEEEDS OF TURKEYS. 31
The rich red of its head and exposed neck, its white,
or flesh colored, shanks, and its pure buff plumage, fad-
ing into light cream on the wings, harmonize perfectly
and make its color scheme truly artistic. But, and here,
we opine, is the real difficulty, buff is a difficult color to
breed perfectly, and among Buff turkeys, as well as among
Buff fowls, there will be too much white or too much black
in the plumage. The result will be that out of many birds
but a few will possess the desired color characteristics. But
if one rears the Bronze, nearly every specimen will be
colored aright and the flock will possess the desired uni-
form appearance.
THE SLATE TUEKEY.
These differ from the Buff mainly in the color of the
plumage. They are good market birds, and when in prime
condition make a handsome appearance in the show pen.
The variety is also called Blue, Maltese or Lavender.
THE NAEEAGANSETT TUEKEY.
H. 8. BABCOCK.
The name of this variety is derived from the beautiful
bay that extends from Newport to Providence, in the state
of Ehode Island. It is the variety which, in all proba-
bility, first gave to Rhode Island turkeys their world-wide
reputation. That reputation has remained, though the
variety has, to a considerable extent, disappeared from the
borders of the bay. The greater size of the Bronze turkey
has been a potent cause in the gradual disappearance of
other varieties. Yet the Narragansett is by no means a
small variety, — it is nearly as large as the Bronze. The
standard weights are : For cock thirty-two pounds, for cock-
erel and hen twenty-two pounds each, and for pullet four-
teen pounds, and are the heaviest weights given to any
variety except the Bronze. These weights are not
TURKEY CULTURE.
/ OF THE > \
I UNIVERSITY |
V OF J
THE BBEEDS OF TURKEYS. 33
extreme, for they are often exceeded, although a thirty-two-
pound turkey is a large bird.
The Narragansett turkey has a striking plumage. The
feathers of the neck, back, breast and body may be
described as deep black, terminating with a broad light-
gray band margined with black. The large wings have
black bows, which show a bronzy luster in the sunshine;
the flight feathers, including both primaries and sec-
ondaries, are black, or nearly black, barred with white or
gray; and the wings, when folded, show two distinct nar-
row bars across them. The tail feathers are black, barred
irregularly with brown, and end in a broad black band
margined with white or gray, generally a very light gray.
The shanks and toes are, in color, a deep salmon or brown.
The plumage of both sexes is the same, except that the
plumage of the male is more distinct in its markings and
deeper in color. The female is the lighter colored speci-
men, its gray being usually of a paler shade.
This coloring makes the Karragansett a distinguished
looking bird. The contrast between its black and its gray
causes the markings co stand out well, and the effect is ex-
tremely pleasing to the eye. There are not wanting those
who believe that this coloration is really more beautiful
than that of the magnificent Bronze, with its richer lines
and more abundant luster.
The size of the variety and its attractive coloring are
sufficient reasons for a desire to have it more extensively
bred than it is. It has a sufficient degree of hardiness
and the other practical qualities, to warrant a renewed
interest in one of the best varieties of the turkey. It cer-
tainly ought to become more common in its original home,
and not allow so many birds really inferior to it to occupy
its place.
The Narragansetts are not so large as the Mammoth
Bronze. Their plumage is a metallic black, each feather
terminating in a broad, light steel-gray band, edged with
8
34 TURKEY CULTURE.
clack. These birds are popular in southern New Eng-
land, where they are extensively grown for the city mar-
kets. They are hardy and as easily reared as the Mam-
moth Bronze. The Narragansetts have thick set, plump
bodies, and short legs, are quick growers, mature early,
and do not roam as far from home as Bronze turkeys.
THE BKUSH TXJKKEY.
BY FRANKLANE I*. SEWELL.
In the zoological gardens of London, the Brush turkey
has made its nest, as it does in its wild state, by construct
ing a crude mound of earth, leaves, grass, sand, and other
materials that 'were at hand, which, by fermentation,
becomes heated. The eggs are deposited therein. In-
stead of a mother turkey on her nest, the picture of pa-
tience, is to be seen the female in apparent carelessness
strolling about the inclosure. The cock seems the most
interested, and by far the busier one of the pair. Not
a sign of herbage, not even a straw, is to be seen on the
ground of their runway, except what is contained in the
mound. The male bird, for it is he who constructs the
mound nest and keeps it constantly in correct condition,
has apparently worn and torn every bit of herbage from
the ground, in his dragging and scratching materials
toward the huge pile, which is about five feet high and
eight or more feet across the base.
While I stood sketching these strange birds, the male
nervously ran to and from the mound, once in a while
scratching the materials at the base towards the top, and
several times I saw him peck at and drive the female
from the place, as if in fear she might disturb something.
The superintendent of the gardens, in a very interesting
account of the Brush turkey, says that when the young are
hatched they creep from the mound, stout and strong,
ready to care for themselves, and on the second or third
day are capable of flight; that they are quite unnoticed by
THE BttEEDS OF TURKEYS.
36 TURKEY CULTURE.
eithet of the parent birds and apparently careless of each
other, hunting their own food, and each selecting, regard-
less of the others, his shelter or roosting place for the
night. These birds apparently have no relationship to
the true American turkey, but are inserted here as a mat-
ter of interest.
THE BEST BREED.
The Bronze turkeys are at present the favorites with
the majority of those who grow turkeys for the market.
Size and hardiness are the important factors which cause
this favoritism. Sometimes private customers prefer
white- or yellow-skinned ones, just as they prefer yellow-
legged chickens. Boston has made the present taste in
New England, which decidedly prefers yellow-legged
chickens, and though the preference is not emphatic for
the skin of White Hollands, yet, doubtless, it is because
it is difficult to obtain them. The compiler of this book
has sold yellow-legged and yellow-skinned poultry at fifty
per cent advance on the price of dark-legged chickens.
It may be a fancy, but if you get your money, what mat-
ters it? By persisting in raising white turkeys for the
New England market for a series of years, a demand may
be made for them. Outside of New England, unless we
may except the Philadelphia market, the color of the skin
and legs of a fowl or turkey receives but little considera-
tion.
COMMON TURKEYS.
By "common" turkeys is meant mongrels, —all sorts
of breeds mixed. Too many farmers have such flocks. Get
a first-rate male of the variety you want and mate him
with your hens. From their progeny select the best
females, and mate them with a fine male of the same breed,
but not related to their sire. Pursue this course, "grad-
ing up," for two or three years, and you will have as good
a flock as you need for market purposes.
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS.
37
INFUSING FRESH BLOOD FROM WILD TURKEYS.
[From reports of the Rhode Island Agricultural Experiment
Station, where this matter has been the object of much research and
experimen I ing.]
"Where wild turkeys are plenty, crosses between wild
and domestic birds frequently occur without design on
Pure Wild.
Domestic. Half Wild.
FIG. 9. WILD BLOOD TURKEYS.
From photographs of stock at the Rhode Island Experiment Station.
the part of the owner of the latter. Scores of cases are
recorded where a wild gobbler from the woods has taken
possession of a flock of common turkeys, sometimes after
first battling with and killing the domestic gobbler. The
88 TUEKEY CULTUEEo
results of such a cross in almost every case have been
so satisfactory that such matings are much desired by tur-
key raisers in those sections, and young wild birds are
caught for this purpose and brought up with common
young turkeys. Yery often nests of wild turkey eggs are
found in the woods and hatched on the farm. These
domesticated wild birds usually persist in roosting sepa-
rate from the others, generally in the woods or on the top
of a house or barn. When raised from the egg they be-
come more gentle and fearless than the domestic turkey,
but if chased or frightened they recover their wild habits
very quickly. Wild turkey crosses are hardier and
healthier than common turkeys, and rarely have disease.
Half-blood hens are generally too wild, but half-blood
gobblers are not as wild and are suitable for crossing with
domestic hens. A small proportion of wild blood im-
proves the size, form, and general appearance, as well as
the vigor, without being a disadvantage in any way. A
quarter-wild cross is better, for practical breeding, than a
pure wild or half-wild bird. Half -wild crosses do well
if allowed a large range, but are not well suited for woody
countries or as easily kept on small places as the domestic
turkey. Wild turkey hens under domestication and wild
first-cross hens often disappear in the spring and are not
seen until fall, when they usually return to their own home
with a brood of nearly full-grown turkeys. Half-blood
mothers make their young too wild. Half-bloods reared
by domestic turkey hens are not much inclined to stray.
Quarter-bloods, under certain conditions, may be as wild as
the wild bird of the woods."
The wild blood gives the cross an astonishing ability
to care for themselves. It is apt to have the strongest in-
fluence in breeding. If first crosses are bred together, the
stock resembles the pure wild, and after several genera-
tions cannot be distinguished from the pure wild by good
judges. The older the bird grows the more he ehows the
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS. 39
wild blood. Crosses have much of the superior game flavor
of the wild, and command a higher price for the table.
The half or one-fourth wild are active, hardy, and unusually
heavy and firm in flesh. They may attain great size, but
will prove specially popular because they will produce poults
weighing ten to twelve pounds the first autumn after they
are hatched, and thus make a most popular market bird.
The Rhode Island Experiment Station has found this invest-
FIG. 10. PURE WILD GOBBLER BRED IN CONFINEMENT.
By courtesy of the Rhode Island Agricultural Experiment Station. Reproduced
from colored plates in Wright's Illustrated Book of Poultry.
ment of wild blood so beneficial that it has obtained wild
stock and distributed half-wild gobblers all over the State.
This is having a most beneficial effect, unless the turkeys
are so bred as to make the proportion of wild blood greater
than one-fourth. In that case they are sometimes wilder
and smaller than is desired for practical purposes. Read
the experience in the latter part of this book, of Mr. Tucker
of Prudence Island with three-eighths wild turkeys, fully
confirming the above. These birds were not tame but
were managed all right* and of those hatched more lived
4:0 TUKKEY CULTURE.
than of any other lot Mr. Tucker has ever had, and they
were larger, more uniform in size, ate heartier, fatted
quicker and were plumper and handsomer when dressed.
Some wild Bronze crosses that are half and three-
fourths wild blood, are occasionally as large as the pure
Bronze turkeys. Several years' crossing, however, with
the selections of the largest for breeding each season, gives
the greatest size. See Fig. 11 for an illustration of this
fact. Wild and wild-cross birds, especially the hens, owing
to their slim heads and necks and their having less red
about the head, are, when seen among common turkeys,
often taken for sick birds by those not familiar with them.
Half-wild crosses are very hardy, but smaller than domes-
tic turkeys, and the hens roam so much and steal their
nests so far from home, that they are undesirable in breed-
ing for market purposes. They often roam off and stay
away all summer, but are almost sure to return in the fall.
Their flesh is about as fine as that of a wild turkey. Half-
wild gobblers are more manageable than the hens, and just
the thing to cross with common turkeys. The birds raised
from such a mating are not only of good size, but hardy
and thrifty, and make fine dressed turkeys.
The gobbler has the most influence on size of prog-
eny. It will not do to coop wild-cross hens, as they
thrash about and kill their young in their attempts to
escape. It is to be hoped that the time when wild turkeys
are to become extinct is far distant. The methods fol-
lowed by the average turkey raiser so depreciate the stock
that, without the occasional introduction of fresh, hardy
blood from the forest, it would become very much degen-
erated. When there are no wild turkeys except those
preserved by man, the salvation of the domestic turkey
will depend on fanciers— those who breed for beauty and
utility. They maintain the varieties pure and perfect
them. They, only, expend the required time and money,
and follow the laws of breeding necessary to prevent the
THE BREEDS OF TURKEYS.
41
FIG. 11. PART WILD BLOOD BRONZE TURKEY.
This bird, Eureka, was from a thoroughbred Bronze hen, while his sire had one-
tourth wild blood. At sixteen months he weighed thirty-six pounds, and at
twenty-eight months tipped the scales at forty-eight and one-half pounds,
winning first prizes both years at New England and York State poultry shows.
The accession of wild blood only three removes back, even if it added noth-
ing to the great weight of this bird, unquestionably contributed to its vitality
ana the brilliancy of its plumage.
42 TURKEY CULTURE.
stock from running out. When will farmers, generally,
appreciate the value of such service and cease -to scoff at
£ancy prices?
:
STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.
The American standard of excellence gives the fal-
lowing scale of points- for turkeys, by which judges
determine the qualifications of exhibition birds : Syrm-
liietry 10, weight 30, condition 10, head 5, wattle 5, neck j>,
l.&ok 7, breast and body 10, wings 8, tail 5, legs 5, total 100.
CHAPTER IV.
TURKEY GROWING AS A BUSINESS.
Not every one can engage in the turkey business as
an occupation or means of livelihood, because so much is
dependent upon surroundings. All farmers are not so
situated that they can raise turkeys without incommoding
their neighbors. The laws of trespass are rigid in most
States, and any neighbor who objects to your birds roam-
ing over his fields can make you trouble, if he be so dis-
posed. Turkeys must have range, and if your own fields
are not wide enough to allow them that necessary element
of success, either be sure of your neighbors' good nature,
or do not embark in the business at all. Many turkey-
growers believe that turkeys have a perversity of disposi-
tion, which impels them to leave their own premises,
tvhere there is plenty of room, grain and grasshoppers,
and trespass on some neighbor's land, to get less food.
A few turkeys can be grown on a small farm ; but
there are plenty of abandoned farms in New England,
which can be bought for the price of the buildings alone,
large enough to grow large flocks. The convenience to
large markets enhances the profits. In the Western and
Southern States still greater numbers may be kept, owing
to wider ranges and cheapness of grain. Common fowls,
with proper care, can be kept with profit in any city or
village lot, but centuries of domestication have not changed
the turkeys' natural love for a necessity of free range.
They can be made tame by gentleness ; they learn to be
familiar with those who care for them, and can be taught
to come home every night ; but, as soon as they have left
the stage of "infancy," as shown by "shooting the red,"
43
44
TURKEY CULTURE.
their propensity to wander in search of their food asserts
itself, and they must have that privilege or they will
sicken and die. This is a fortunate trait, for two reasons.
First, it makes the bird's flesh better food for man ; second,
it limits the business to fewer persons, who get paying
prices for their labor. If turkeys could be raised at a profit
in confinement, their flesh would net be so wholesome,
and so many people would go into the business that the
FIG, 12. WHITE HOLLAND TURKEYS.
From a photograph of a Rhode Island flock.
price would come down to a non-paying point. Turkey
nature itself effectually prevents all danger of overdoing
the business.
Turkeys are not hard to raise after you know how For
the first few weeks of their lives they require more care
than any other domesticated bird, but after they are fully
feathered and have "thrown the red," they require less
care than any other fowl. It requires but little capital.
TURKEY GROWING AS A BUSINESS. 45
Houses, except in the extreme North, and turkey sheds in
other sections, are not needed. Turkeys must be raised on
farms, and farmers raise much of the grain they need.
One torn and three to five hen turkeys are enough to begin
with- When you can raise all, or nearly all, of their prog-
eny, then it will be time to think of enlarging your
business. From a flock of six you ought to raise seventy-
five to one hundred turkeys.
Turkey raising is an excellent business for women.
Many a farmer's wife, whose husband does not care to
*'bother with poultry," can earn from fifty to three hun-
dred dollars a year, according to the size of the flock, the
range and the market, without seriously impeding the
other necessary work which falls to the lot of farmers'
wives.
It is unnecessary to .quote market prices here as a
criterion, for they vary so in different localities. In 1894,
for Thanksgiving and Christmas, turkeys retailed in
Indianapolis for ten to twelve cents per pound ; in Boston,
from eighteen to twenty-five cents, according to quality.
Whoever engages in turkey raising must remember that
success in raising turkeys is bought at the same price as
liberty — eternal vigilance.
Rhode Island Experiment Station: "To the fore-
going it should be said, that we have found the largest
and most thrifty looking turkeys on rather light land, and
where new blood is frequently introduced. If a flock
becomes diseased, the land which they wander over may
become contaminated, and affect other flocks which occupy
the same ground, hence it is sometimes necessary to change
the land on which they run, from one year to another.
If turkeys are kept where they may drink from stagnant
pools in barnyards, pigpens or privy vaults, sudden and
fatal attacks of bowel trouble must be expected. A ru~
ning stream is of great value on a turkey farm."
CHAPTER V.
SELECTION OF PARENT STOCK.
In reserving or selecting parent stock from which to
raise turkeys for the market, do not overlook a most im-
portant matter, the age of the parents. Ten- or twelve-
months-old turkeys are not sufficiently mature to produce
the strongest progeny. Old turkeys lay larger eggs, and
the young are larger and stronger when hatched. If neces-
sity forces you to breed from stock of your own raising,
keep the hens three, four, five or six years, if necessary.
No judicious farmer will kill off his good heifers after they
have dropped their first calves. He knows the progeny
will become better and better, until age enfeebles the
parent. So with turkeys. The same breeding stock may
be kept, after they have proved their value, for some
time. When you wish to replenish or renew the parent
stock, select the best of your young hens and get a first-class
torn not related to them ; then you have your new stock
to take the place of the others, whenever it may be
deemed proper to dispose of the old ones. As Mrs. A. J.
Sexson, who took the first Farm, and Home prize for
essays on turkey culture, says: "The future stock depends
very much upon the parent birds, or their ancestry. Be-
peated breeding from inferior birds makes inferiority
hereditary." When grown for exhibition purposes, pure
strains only should be kept, but for marketing, cross
breeds are not objectionable.
One essayist produced the best results by mating two-
year-old toms to four-year-old hens. A four- or five-year-
old torn is apt to attain a great weight if kept well fed,—
46
SELECTION OF PAREJSTT STOCK. 47
too heavy for the hens. Besides, if he be too fat, the
eggs fail. to get fertilized.
It is surprising how many attempt to raise turkeys
from small and immature birds. Many who know that tur-
keys two years old are too young, continue to kill off the
young hens for market after breeding season. As Mr. Gush-
man says : There seems to be a dread of having something
too old or unsalable left on their hands. To breed from
immature or poor specimens is to violate one of the first
FIG. 13. MB. BLOODGOOD'S FLOCK OF WHITE HOLLAND TUKKEYS.
laws of breeding. Selections of the best, for generations,
nas given us the best and most profitable breeds of stockc
The hereditary influence of such selections is of great value.
The most inferior bird out of a flock of such blood may
"throw back" and breed very fine stock, and do better
than a much finer specimen from a poor-bred strain; but
the repeated selection of inferior birds for a number of
generations, makes this inferiority hereditary. The stock
depends mainly on the parent birds, or their ancestry.
48 TURKEY CULTURE.
The most successful raisers often pay $15 to $25, including
express charges, for a satisfactory gobbler. Instead of
hesitating to pay the killing price for the best hen or gob-
bler in a flock, the turkey raiser should think himself
fortunate to secure the best at three or fou-r times the
market value of the bird.
Unlike other domestic fowls, the male turkey fertilizes
the eggs of an entire litter by the first copulations ; the
number of hens, therefore, with which he may run, may
be any number from three to twenty, according to his
vigor and strength.
The male bird should be proud, stately, haughty,
ready to resent the presence of a stranger, yet seeming to
attract attention to his plumage by the display of its
beauty. His voice, as he "gobbles," should be strong and
rapid. He should be always gallant to his wives, insisting
that they shall admire him, and nothing and nobody else,
as doubtless they do.
The female turkey should be of modest demeanor, yet
with a quick, alert, bright eye ; ready to respond to the
gentle ministrations of the good woman who has charge of
the flock; solicitous for the welfare of her young; willing
and able to roost high in some tree near the house, where
the proprietor may think them safe from thieves; she
should have a soft flute-like voice, as she utters her
peculiar cry, that so charms her lordly master; these
qualities, combined with a graceful form and carriage, as
she quietly and gently moves about foraging for food,
make her an object of interest to every one.
No wonder that the raising of turkeys had such fasci-
nation for many people. Lords and ladies of high degree
in Europe ; people of all ranks in life, in nearly all parts
of the world, engage in this charming pursuit; some for
pastime, more for what money the work brings them; but
all with an enthusiastic love for the beautiful birds.
Even in llhode Island it is customary to kill off and
SELECTION OP PARENT STOCK.
49
market the largest birds, and to breed from late turkeys
and small gobblers. This inevitably decreases the size,
and runs out the stock. There is a constant temptation
to get the largest amount of money possible from the
flocks in one season, but the returns are less in the long
run. Save the best for breeders. Some experts change
FIG. 14. A MISSOURI PRIZE-WINNING BRONZE.
A. portrait by Sewell for Farm Poultry, of the first-prize bird at the Mid-Conti-
nental (St Louis) show. On this bird " was a plumage with a luster like bur-
nished copper; with saddle tips almost pure white, on a body with lines truly
thoroughbred, and as a thirty-six pound yearling was a most shapely Bronze
gobbler. He carried a deep, round breast, and thick thighs; heavily meated,
with fine-grained flesh. He was a quick-maturing torn of twenty-eight pounds
at six months and two weeks of age."
gobblers every season, or every other season, but they
either test the gobbler as a breeder, or know how his prog-
eny have turned out before they depend upon him. It is
CO TURKEY CULTURE.
best to have an extra gobbler to fall back on, should the
lord of the flock be lost by disease or accident. Many
western breeders agree that one can seldom obtain thrifty
chicks from a young gobbler, and that a three-year-old is
better than a two-year-old. Many successful turkey grow-
ers also maintain that to change gobblers every season, or
every other season, as was suggested, is to make a mis-
take, but we don't think so, if you know the bird you buy.
I. K. Felch maintains, that if one procured the finest gob-
bler that could be found, and mated him with extra-choice
hens, they could be kept and bred from as long as they
Jived; not until the gobbler failed should another be
procured, and he should be kept with the same hens.
The progeny should be disposed of yearly and not bred
from, unless mated with a strange gobbler. Of course, the
breeding birds should not be too large, as hens weighing
pyer twenty pounds are apt to lay soft-shelled eggs.
Mr Barber adds this note upon the Kentucky method :
For breeders, select broad-backed, full-breasted and
ehort-legged ones of any variety you decide to raise.
Twelve hens mated to one torn is the correct number, and
some prefer young hens to adult ones, as they will lay
more eggs, and if they are heavy-weight varieties, when
incubating, they will not break so many, or mash so many
of the young poults, as the old hens would do, while the
old ones lay larger eggs, and will hatch from them
stronger and hardier poults."
-.;
CHAPTER VL
CARE OF BREEDING STOCK.
The unanimous testimony of the one hundred and
seventy-seven turkey growers who responded to the call
of the Farm and Home for essays on Turkey culture, is,
that to have success in raising turkeys, attention must
be given to the care of the breeding stock. This must
begin "the fall before."
In the northern part of the United States, and the
colder portions of the Middle, they should be housed in
winter, though they can stand more cold than common
fowls. Freedom to roam, on warm, sunny days, is req-
uisite. In the Southern and Pacific States, and some
portions of the Middle States, a shed open to the south is
sufficient protection, so far as the climate is concerned ;
even trees or high rails would be better, if the temperature
be not much below the freezing point. Some of the best
turkeys I ever saw were in Central Illinois, and never
knew shelter, their nightly perch the year round being
the ridge pole of a small barn. But the rule to "follow
nature' ' must not be misunderstood. Turkeys in their wild
state seek the shelter of forests and thick shrubbery in
cold weather; an open prairie, in zero weather, is not
recommended for domestic birds.
Where but few turkeys are kept, they may be housed
with other fowls, and receive the same feed and care, but
are much more liable to disease. In all cases, the floor of
the house should be covered six or more inches deep with
forest leaves or straw litter, being renewed as often as it if
badly soiled and trodden down.
51
52 TURKEY CULTURE.
Do not overfeed or starve your flock. The natural
food of the turkey, in its wild state, consists of insects,
worms, grass, berries and seeds. You can approximate that
diet with your domesticated birds by the use of meat
scraps, grain and soft feed. After fasting through a long,
cold winter's night, such as we have from Maine to Idaho,
the birds' crops are empty. The best breakfast then is a
hot mush, made of wheat screenings, corn meal, cropped
onions or other vegetable matter, as turnip tops,— which
grow on the turnips in the cellar, — or mashed potatoes, all
mixed with boiling water. Two or three times a week
season this with cayenne or black pepper. A little salt now
and then may not be objectionable, but that is less essen-
tial. Turkeys are not horned cattle, which need much
salt. Here is my mixture for the birds' breakfast : One
part by measure of corn meal, two parts wheat screenings,
one part chopped onions (or two parts mashed boiled pota-
toes, or two parts raw chopped sweet apples), and one part
meat scraps, mixed with boiling water to the consistency
of thick dough. Let it stand, covered, until the meal is
thoroughly swelled. Fifteen minutes is long enough. Feed
what they can eat up clean. Don't let them surfeit them-
selves. Then throw a little grain broadcast over the litter
on the floor, and let them scratch for it. Keep clean water
in clean vessels before them all the time, also pounded
crockery. No need of having an unsightly pile of broken
dishes behind your barn or outhouse if you keep poultry.
The avidity with which fowls devour this material is
astonishing. I have found, by experience, that in the
winter time it is better than gravel. Feed chopped rowen
or clover occasionally. Keep crushed or granulated oyster
shells before them always.
In the short days of our northern winters, not much
need be fed at noon. Remember, you are not fattening
your turkeys for market. Keep them too fat and the
eggs are in danger of proving sterile. Many
CABE OF BREEDING STOCK. 53
ing turkeys are over -fat in the spring, having been
overfed, or given too fattening food. Frequently they
die at this time as a result of overfeeding. The prog-
eny of over-fat birds are less vigorous. Late-hatched
hens that are growing all the time need more food ; they
cannot store up a surplus, and will lay earlier because they
are thin. Feed the old 'turkey hens clover and less starchy
food in the latter part of winter, and they will give
better satisfaction. Throw thorn some grain at noon.
Then just before sundown, give them all the hot whole
grain they can eat. You may heat it in dripping
pans in the stove oven, or put the grain into an iron kettle
over the fire and fill with hot water. Let it come to a
boil, or until you know every kernel is hot. Then scatter
the hot grain well over the floor, and let the turkeys fill
their crops, or until they cease calling for more. A long win-
ter night of fourteen or fifteen hours is before them, dur-
ing which they cannot eat, so a full crop of whole grain
stands them in need. I followed this plan of feeding and
always fuund it kept my poultry in good condition.
These directions, it will be seen by the observant turkey
grower, are adapted to our northern latitudes. In the
South and California the foregoing directions as to feeding
are not wholly applicable. As regards cleanliness they
are. Diseases are treated under their proper heading.
Presuming that we have taken one flock of the "Birds of
America*' through the winter, we now come to another
epoch, which requires even more care and watchfulness—
the laying season.
CHAPTEE VIL
LAYING AND HATCHING.
As the laying season approaches, we find that four
hundred years of domestication have not changed the shy
nature of the turkey, nor robbed her of her love of secrecy.
From the middle of February to the middle of April, ac-
cording to the latitude and climate, she begins to seek
hiding places in which to lay her eggs. Here the watch-
fulness of the keeper must begin, and not cease until the
young are able to take care of themselves. The essays
given in this book are some of the most valuable contribu-
tions to turkey literature ever published. Being the sim-
ply told tales of varied personal experience, they are
invaluable in the details they give of attention to little
things.
The hen turkey begins to make that peculiar, musical,
craking noise, and the torn is more assiduous in his at-
tentions to his wives. He grows prouder and more gallant,
and "gobbles" and displays the beauty of his plumage
more than ever. In her wild state, the hen turkey lays
her eggs on the ground, the nest being made of dried
leaves. She selects dense shrubbery on a dry soil for its
location. Your domesticated turkey will do the same, if
allowed the chance. But the danger from foxes, skunks,
weasels, minks, coyotes and other obstacles to success, com-
pels you to assist nature a little. The saving of the eggs, to
you, is an important matter. One Vermont woman writes,
"As soon as I hear any of them making that peculiar
craking noise, which they always do before they begin
laying, I drive them into the horse barn, where I have
prepared nests in the hay, with nest eggs in them. Some-
54
LAYING AtfD HATCHING. 55
times I have to drive them in several mornings, keeping
them shut in all the forenoon, but I always persevere un-
til I conquer them. After they have laid two or three
eggs, they will become attached to their nests. I like to
have them finish laying and begin to set about the first of
May." One man, who has great success with turkeys,
encloses a large space by a high fence of wire net-
ting, to prevent the turkeys laying and setting in
the woods and fields. Nests are provided within the en-
closure. During the laying season, the hen turkeys are
driven within the enclosure to roost, and confined during
the forenoon each day, until all have selected nests.
When hatching, they and their young are more readily
cared for and controlled. Humor the turkey's love for
secrecy, if you prefer to have her lay out of doors, by
netting laying coops for her in secluded places not far
from your house and barn. Barrels, or "A" coops, with
dried leaves or litter in them, will do. If she steals her
nest in some bushes not far from the house, leave her alone,
but remove the eggs daily, leaving a nest egg in the nest.
When she has layed her litter she will rest awhile, and
then lay another litter, when she should be allowed to
sit. The eggs should be taken into the house and kept in
a cool (not cold) place, packed in wheat bran, small end
downward.
Turkey eggs require twenty-eight days for incubation.
Coincide with the hen turkey's desire for secrecy, and let
her sit in places hidden from the sight of men and dogs.
Bottomless boxes that will shed rain, old barrels with twc
or three staves knocked out, "A" coops, measur-
ing not less than three feet square at the base, plac-
ed in retired situations not far from the house, are all that
are necessary for hatching purposes. If the turkeys were
taught to lay in them, all the better. The nest should be
upon the ground, and made of forest leaves or chopped
bay. If turkeys are set in barrels laid on their sides, holea
66 TUEKEY CULTURE.
should be bored in the underside of the barrel to let out
rain water, or it may hold water enough to spoil the eggs.
Carefully save the eggs of the first litter, if they are
laid earlier in the season than you want to set them, and
wait until the turkey has laid her second litter. Calculate
your time, so that the chicks will come out in May. March
or April in the South, and June first in the extreme North,
are not far wrong. Presuming that the first litter was
layed quite early, set these eggs under broody common
hens of good sitting stock, as Brahmas, Cochins, or Ply-
mouth Kocks. Under each hen place seven or eight turkey
eggs ; the turkey may cover sixteen to twenty. If the torn
annoys the sitting turkeys, confine him, although he will
not be likely to do that if one or more other turkeys are
with him. If the season be late and cold storms with snow
prevail, the incubation must take place in barns or sheds.
Set all the eggs, if possible, at the same time. While
common hens come off to feed and bathe every day, tur-
keys rarely leave their nests oftener than once in three
days; some have been known to starve on their nest when
danger threatened their eggs. Keep whole corn, wheat,
oyster shells, clean water and a good dust bath accessible
to them all the time.
In setting the common fowl and turkey, thoroughly
powder them with Persian insect powder (Pyrethrum),
using the little bellows made and sold for the purpose.
Hold the hen by the legs while doing this, that every part
of the skin and every feather may receive some of the
powder. Scatter flour of sulphur well over the nest. If
lice are detected before the four weeks are up, go through
the same operation again, for of all enemies, hindrances and
disarrangements which assail the poultry grower, no half
dozen of them equal lice in power and persistency, or are
so prevalent. Yet they can be conquered, subdued and ex«
terminated. Two days before hatching, thoroughly powder
the hen again, but put no sulpbur on the nest. If *-he
LAYING AND HATCHING. 5?
nest be upon the ground, no sprinkling of the eggs with
tepid water will be necessary.
Remember, that while care and watchfulness are nec-
essary, the shy nature of the turkey resents "fussing."
After she has settled down to business, let her alone. She
knows when she is hungry, and needs a bath, and if they
be convenient to her she will not need your help.
Incubators may be used in hatching turkey eggs, but
my advice is, learn the old-fashioned way first. The
hatching is easy enough, but the disposition of the turkey
to roam makes the rearing of it in confinement so far
impossible.
CHAPTEE VIII.
TRAINING TURKEYS TO SIT AT ANY TIME.
In France, turkeys are used as sitters and mothers
when broody hens are scarce. In certain sections, turkey
hens are mostly used as sitters, and many breeders keep
from thirty to one hundred turkeys, which are employed
for incubation, with occasional interruptions, the year
round. The large hatching establishments, where a large
number of incubators are used, employ turkey hens to do
a part of the work. A French woman, who has had great
success in beguiling her turkey hens to sit whenever she
wants them to, gives an account of how it is done, in the
English Fanciers' Gazette.
"To those who do not possess an incubator, turkeys
are still more precious, as they generally get broody after
a few days' training. It is not expensive business. The
process is simple, and not beyond the reach of every purse.
Secure a box long and wide enough to give the turkey
her complete ease, though not high enough to allow her to
stand up in it. This box must be shut by a cover, fastened
by hooks, or kept down by a heavy stone. Four laths
nailed together over a piece of wire, is the best cover to
use; but one or two boards put over the box, with a little
space left between them for air, will do quite well. A
piece of canvas covers the whole, and keeps the bird in
the dark. On the bottom of the box place a good bed of
hay, slightly hollowed out in the center, and in this nest a
few clear or china eggs. Then take the turkey gently, and
give her five or six pieces of bread, soaked in red wine or
brandy and water (half and half), or whisky and water,
or any other liquor capable of giving a slight ' elevation ; '
TEAINING TURKEYS TO SIT AT ANY TIME. 59
after which place her on the nest and cover her up. Morn-
ing and evening take her from the nest, put her under a
coop, give her water, grain, a dust bath, and again bread
soaked in some kind of spirit. Eepeat this until you see
that the turkey settles herself on the eggs and remains on
them quietly without being covered up. Then you may
give her good eggs and depend upon her to do her duty
conscientiously.
"An important point upon which I cannot insist
enough, is the necessity for looking for vermin before plac-
ing the hen on the nest, in order to prevent her being
troubled by these pests and becoming restless, as such
large birds are more liable than others to break eggs. A
good sprinkling of Pyrethrum powder through the feathers
and in the hay of the nest, is to be recommended. The
first operation should take place by daylight. The turkey,
being plunged from full light into complete darkness, when
the effect of the wine begins to act and make her feel
rather funny in the head, gets so frightened that she will
remain on the eggs without moving. The contact with
these, and her long tete-a-tete with them, develops her
maternal instincts, and, as a rule, a few days are sufficient
to provoke the brooding fever. I have known turkeys to
get broody the day after they were set. I never train them
more than eight or nine days, and give liberty to those
who have not taken to the nest by that time. If properly
managed, they will sit from six to eight weeks consecu-
tively, without showing any trace of fatigue. Some breeders
make them brood much longer, but it is cruel and danger-
ous, for sometimes the birds die on the eggs. When they
do sit it is not necessary to feed them twice a day ; take
them up in the morning only, but let it be regularly.
" Not aU turkeys are willing to be forced to sit; still,
the restives are rare. When these birds are desired as
sitting 'machines,' they ought to be carefully selected.
Breeders who intend to go in for them should purchase once
60 TURKEY CULTUKE.
more, as wanted, and give them a trial ; those which do
not give entire satisfaction can be fattened and sent to
market ; they will pay for the remainder.
" Above all others, may it be animated or artificial
brooders, turkeys are the first ; to breed with them is not
so expensive as using incubators or foster mothers, and
gives much less trouble. Some of my readers will jump
from their chair at reading this ; I beg them to sit down
again, and listen quietly to me. In the country, a flock
of turkeys, be it very large, costs nothing to keep. Mine are
turned out on a lawn, partly planted with wood, and they
never get a handful of corn or any meal, until severe win-
ter sets in — that is, when the snow covers the ground.
All are in splendid condition. At night, they come home,
their crops always full, and are shut up in a stable, where
they find their ideal perch — an old wheel, fixed on a
stake a few feet from the ground. In our climate, the
winters are not long, and rarely very severe. We may
calculate to have to feed our turkeys during two months0
The manure, which they produce in great quantities the
whole year round, pays amply for the expense of food dur-
ing that period, which is also the time we require their
services for brooding. Thus the cost of feeding ought
not to be taken into account; nevertheless, if we do, the
food of four turkeys, which will breed one hundred eggs,
will not come to the cost of the heating of an incubator
of same capacity. Such a machine will consume, per day,
about one litre of petroleum of first quality, at the rate of
five pence the litre. Four turkeys will not eat more than
threepence worth. As for the trouble, I do not think it
makes more labor to take the hens from the nests once a
day than to turn, morning and evening, a quantity of eggs,
clean the lamp, fill up the water, etc., without counting
that the slightest neglect may expose the whole contents
of the incubator. With turkeys, nothing like this is to be
dreaded. Of mild and submissive disposition, they can
TRAILING TURKEYS TO SIT AT ANY TIME. 61
be bandied in any way, and seldom break any of the eggs
entrusted to their care. They will breed with the same
tenderness all sorts of eggs, be they of geese or of pheasants.
" Last year I received from England a few sittings of
Bantam eggs. Having no broody hens ready, I got three
in my neighborhood. At the sight of the small eggs, so
different from their own, the broody hens got quite
wild, and would have destroyed the lot had we not taken
them away. I sent them back from where they came, and
immediately began to train a few turkeys. My flock con-
sisted of three large birds, which get broody after twenty-
four hours' training. Two days later, I gave all the eggs
to one of these, which brooded them without breaking a
single one.
" Turkeys are very attentive mothers, and protect their
chickens well. I never had one taken by vermin or birds
of prey, which abound in the grounds around, because of
the proximity of a forest, although my turkeys, with their
young ones, are free to run where they like, and go some-
times three or four hundred yards from the house. If
they know each other, several may be allowed to run
together without danger of fighting. These goodies will
accept any change or addition of chickens, and brood the
newcomers as tenderly as their own. I often saw turkeys,
whose chicks had been joined to others, adopt large chick-
ens more than two months old, which had been forsaken
by the hen.
" Training turkeys to force them to sit does not take
away their laying qualities, when they are properly
managed. Therefore, allow them to lay their batch of eggs
after they have brooded and raised your early chickens.
They will ask to sit immediately they have finished lay-
ing; you may let them, and have no fear of overworking.
"And now, if my readers will believe in one who speaks
by experience, and not upon hearsay, they will give my
favorite brooding machines a trial, and admit afterwards
6£ TURKEY CULTURE.
that we French people do not always tell boastful stories or
propagate hoaxes."
Doubtless many would be opposed to giving whisky
or any spirits to poultry for any purpose, and this may
not be necessary, even to insure success. Mr W. E. Steven-
son, of Arkansas, writes the Reliable Poultry Journal that
he trains his turkeys to sit at any time, and succeeds with-
out administering either corn or grape juice. He treats his
turkeys kindly, so as to have them very tame, and uses
hens that are from three to ten years old. In the winter,
when he wants to set them, he makes a nest in a barrel or
box of suitable size, then warms six to ten china eggs and
puts them in the nest, and puts the turkey on them. This
is done in the evening, or when it is growing dark. A
sack or quilt is hung over the opening, to darken the
nest. He feeds very lightly for three days. By the third
day he can tell whether the turkey has become broody.
If she has, from twenty to thirty eggs are given her,
according to her size. Turkeys, under proper care, car
be depended upon to keep to their nests for ten weeks,
but for best results should not be made to do this work
over six weeks. Mr Stevenson thus successfully sets his
turkeys at any time, without violating his Prohibition
principles.
Mr. Samuel Cushman says, from his own experience, that
turkeys can be made to sit whenever required. A young
turkey hen that never laid an egg was shut on a nest of china
eggs, and there was no trouble in getting her to settle down.
The first two times she was put off to feed, she was caught
and placed on the nest and shut in, but after that the nest
was left uncovered and she came off when whenever she
chose. We never found her off the nest. The shed in
which she was set had a slat front, so she was confined
and could not go out of sight of the nest or get away.
This turkey was not a tame one, by any means. We can
control our turkeys better if set within a large building
TRAINING TURKEYS TO SIT AT ANT TIME. 63
or enclosure. Turkeys can be used to hatch the eggs of
hens, ducks and geese, and the raiser who does not have
an artificial hatcher will not have to delay operations
until hens get ready to set, or until he can secure thi
desired number.
^> OF THE
I UNIVERSITY
OF
CHAPTEB IX.
BEARING THE TURKEY CHICKS.
The turkey chicks having been hatched, they will
require the breeder's utmost and constant attention for the
first eight or ten weeks, for on the management of the
chicks depends the success or failure of turkey rearing.
Turkeys, when chicks, being exceeding delicate (the most
delicate of any domesticated poultry), and liable to be
not only decimated, but entire broods exterminated by a
sudden cold wind or a slight shower, and requiring, as
they do, feeding every two hours, or six times a day,
it is advisable for those who are unable to spare the
time to give the necessary attention, not to attempt
breeding turkeys, for they will only meet with severe
losses and disappointment.
The chicks, having broken the shells by themselves,
without any fussy interference by the owner, may be left to
themselves for twenty-four hours, though the shells may be
removed and something placed in front of the nest, if it
be made in a box, to prevent any of the chicks falling out
and getting cold. The chicks having, just previously to
emerging from the shell, drawn into their body the yolk,
they are sufficiently sustained for twenty or twenty-four
hours or so, and require no feeding until the following
day. If the day be warm and fine, they may be placed
outdoors, in a dry situation ; if cold and damp, or windy,
they are better kept under cover, though not in a close
atmosphere, but where there is plenty of ventilation, a
large open shed protected from the wind being the best.
A warm bed having been provided, made of chaff, dry saw-
dust or dry horse droppings, all over a bed of dry sand and
64
BEARING THE TURKEY CHICKS.
65
eoal ashes, to prevent damp arising, place the coop,
which should be previously lime-washed, over it, facing
pouth, and the mother and chicks inside. The poults
hatched under common hens should be given the mother
turkey in the night. Some breeders prefer bottoms to the
coops, but unless the ground be very damp, that is not
necessary. If you dusted the mother with insect powder
two days before hatching, there will be no lice to annoy
them.
On the second day the chicks may receive their first
meal. On one point all turkey growers agree : no "sloppy"
food must be giv- j
en the young
birds. In a nat-
ural state, turkey
chicks feed large-
ly upon flies, spi-
d e r s , grasshop-
pers, grubs, snails,
slugs, worms, ant
eggs, etc., and if
watched on a
bright day will be
SPPTl to bp OOTl FI°* 15' PEN T° CONFINE ^ITTLE TURKEYS,
UNTIL OLD ENOUGH TO JUMP OVER;
stantly chasing MOTHER AT LIBERTY.
flies, etc., about the meadows and woods. Berries, seeds,
etc., make the variation. The first meal should be hard-
boiled eggs (boiled twenty minutes), and stale wheat bread
dipped in hot milk, the milk squeezed out, and both crum-
bled fine and seasoned with black pepper. This feed may
be continued for two or three weeks, with now and then a
variation to thick clabbered milk, or Dutch cheese in place
of the egg. Let it be known that the egg is a substitute
for insects, which the young turkey has in its wild state ;
so. as opportunities open for the chicks to get insects,
the egg should be omitted. Dry meal must not be given
66 TURKEY CULTURE.
them, not wet meal insufficiently swelled. If the meal
swells in their crops, death is almost certain. The best
way to feed Indian meal is in the form of corn bread or
" Johnny cake." After the young birds are three weeks
old, omit the eggs and give meat scraps and ground bone.
Clean water or milk must be before them all the time.
For runs, the best are three fourteen-inch boards set on
edge so as to form a triangle, with the coop in one corne*,
or shorter boards over one corner, for shelter from the sun
by day and dews by night. Every day or two, move two
of these boards so as to form another triangle, Fig. 15,
adjacent to the site of the old one. By the time the chicks
are old enough to jump over the boards, they may be
allowed to wander about with their mother, after the
morning dew is off. After that time, three feedings a day
are sufficient, and when they are weaned, feeding at
morning and night only is enough. With a good range
over wheat stubble, which they can have in the Western
States and territories, and plenty of grasshoppers, no other
feeding is necessary after they are educated to come home
to roost.
Mr Barber writes: " Our turkeys lay and sit in large
roomy coops, two and one-half feet long by two feet wide,
two feet high in front, with a slope of six inches to the
rear ; we keep the turkey hens, with their broods, in a lot,
on short grass."
Instead of cooping brooding turkeys to prevent them
from roaming too much, W. P. Lewis, who raises 90 per
cent of his hatch, fastens the hen with a cord to a peg
in the ground, after the manner cows are tied out to pas-
ture. After being pegged down for a few days, the hens
are "shingled" so they cannot fly over walls and fences, and
are then allowed free range. In "shingling, "or "boarding,"
turkeys, a thin board or shingle, in which holes are bored,
is fastened across the shoulders of the bird by soft cords,
tape or strips of cloth. When of the proper shape and the
BEARING THE TURKEY CHICKS. 67
boards are in the right place, and the cords are not tied
too tightly, they may be worn twelve months without
injury to the turkey. By this method the birds may be
confined to one field as easily as sheep. This is better and
surer than clipping one wing. The only objection to it is
that turkeys thus hampered
are almost at the mercy of f
dogs. When the board is f t •
first adjusted, the turkeys V^ | |
try to free themselves, but ^i .» "^\ >n^ ^ ,
they usually accept the ^"-l - ^ ^ '*4 £ $
situation in less than an
hour, and do not seem to FIG. 16. RHODE ISLAND TURKE*
mind them afterward. Va- SHINGLE.
rious other boards are used, Fig. 16 giving the Ehode
Island pattern, and Fig 17 the Western style. The strings
are usually tied on the top of the board. In fastening the
Western style of board, the string is passed down from
one hole in front of the wing, close to the body, and
M4 r'
FIO. 17. WESTERN STYLE OP TURKEY SHINGLE.
around under the wing and up through the other hole, and
is tied on top of the board. An ordinary shingle is strong
enough for most hens, but large gobblers require some-
thing stronger, and light barrel staves are often used ; a
three-eighths-inch auger hole is then necessary, but usually
a gimlet is sufficient.
68 TURKEY CULTURE.
The young chicks must have green food. If they can-
not obtain plenty of grass, give chopped lettuce, dande-
lions, onion tops (these last sparingly), turnip tops, e c.
Buckwheat, cracked corn, and wheat may be given at
night, after they get large enough. Do not leave food
around. Feed each time only so much as will be eaten
up clean. After the first two weeks give sour milk
freely. After they can get insects, no other meat than
the milk will be necessary. The particular enemies of
the young turkeys are lice and diarrhea, but both may
be conquered. These will be treated in the chapter
on Hindrances.
During the feathering period, the chicks must have
plenty of bone- and feather-forming material. This is
supplied best in the form of finely chopped meat and
green bones. A good bone mill or cutter is indispensable
when much poultry are kept. See that they have grit, in
the form of pounded crockery, oyster shells and clean
gravel. The best thing I ever used was small sea shells
from the sea coast of Connecticut. They cost about a dol-
lar per barrel.
In addition to the foregoing, the following hints
brought out by the most careful inquiry by the Khode
Island Experiment Station, of the methods pursued by the
best turkey specialists in that State, are of interest : Little
turkeys do best if kept and fed separate from fowls and
chickens. They are weak and tender creatures, and as they
grow very fast, require an abundance of nutritive and
easily digested food, but it must not be too concentrated.
Too rich food, too much food that is hard to digest, or a
lack of green food, will cause bowel trouble. Little tur-
keys require food oftener than little chickens. Feed little
and often. Give cooked food until they grow enough to
develop the red about the head, or green food, like chopped
onions and lettuce, if they are confined to a pen. Remem-
ber that little chickens thrive under confinement that
REARING THE TURKEY CHICKS.
69
would cause disease and death among little turkeys. If
the little turkeys are cooped, remove them to fresh, dry
ground frequently. Dampness, lice and filth make short
work of them. Give them their food on clean surfaces.
Young turkeys should not be out in heavy showers
until their backs are well covered with feathers. If they
get wet, they may die from chill, unless put in a warm
room to dry. Black and red pepper and ginger in the food
or drinking water aid them to overcome a chill, and are of
great value on cold or damp days, and are a preventive
FIG. 18. COOP FOB BROODING TURKEY, WHILE THE CHICKS ARE AT
LIBERTY.
of bowel trouble in both old and young turkeys. Some
find that young turkeys do best when neither they nor the
hen is confined, providing they are put in a pasture lot,
high and dry, where the grass is short and there are no
trees. No more than three litters are cooped in a five-
acre lot.
Ehode Island turkey growers are careful to use only
Northern corn, at least a year old, in feeding both little
turkeys and grown ones, as new corn is apt to cause
diarrhoea, y Messrs Browning & Chappell, an illustration of
TURKEY CULTUBE.
one of whose flocks is given in Fig. 21, use corn bread, aa
suggested in this chapter, but in making this bread the
meal is mixed with sweet milk, and is given time to swell,
and is then baked. After a few weeks, a portion of
scalded cracked corn is mixed with the crumbs, and the
proportion is gradually increased until clear scalded
cracked corn is giv-
en. They consider
it very important
that the cracked
corn be always well
scalded and allowed
to swell before feed-
ing. On cold or
stormy days a small
quantity of black pepper is added to the bread crumbs or
cracked corn. They find that turkeys that forage on
green oats will have diarrhoea.
At the Rhode Island Station it was found that confin-
ing the little turkeys at night prevents their being
entangled and lost in
the long, wet grass,
but it is detrimental
to their welfare and
should not be contin-
ued too long. If pos-
sible, they should have
FIG. 19. SHED FOB SHELTERING LITTLE
TURKEYS AT NIGHT.
FIG. 20.
SHED FOR SHELTERING LITTLE
TURKEYS AT NIGHT.
full liberty where the
grass is short. Their nature is such that they need cold
aii and a great deal of exercise. Restriction of liberty,
with light feeding, soon puts them out of condition;
while full feeding, even with liberty, prevents their tak-
ing full exercise, and causes disease of the digestive
organs, and they are lost or do not thrive.
If the young birds have done well at six or eight
weeks, they begin to "throw the red," as it is termed.
BEARING THE TURKEY CHICKS. 71
viz : to develop the red carunculous formation about the
head and neck, so characteristic of the turkey. If the tur-
key chicks be late hatched or weakly, it is retarded some-
times another month. Should the growth, from what-
ever cause, be checked when young, they will never make
large and vigorous birds. After they have "thrown the
red, " the sexes can be distinguished, and they are then
termed poults. They should not be allowed to perch too
early, but bedded down upon chaff, leaves, etc., or they
will have crooked breasts. Later on, the fleshy appendage
over the beak, and the billy or horsehair-like tuft on the
breast, make their appearance in the male birds, which,
with tail erected and outspread, and with the whole body
inflated with pomp, can be easily distinguished from their
more somber sisters. At the time of "throwing the red,"
the young turkeys pass through their chicken molt,
another critical period in their life. The birds lose their
appetite and languish several days. They require now
more stimulating food and a larger meat diet. Being
insectivorous, the best range young turkeys can have is
among shrubbery, bushes and such like. If the weather
be open and fine, and the birds have a little extra care
tor a short time, they become as hardy, as adults, as they
were delicate when young.
In Kentucky, writes Mr Barber, the young should be
fed for the first week on corn bread in which there ia
plenty of egg, and stale light bread soaked in milk. With
the range of a blue-grass woodland, and plenty of insects,
the poults grow very rapidly ; when they are six to eight
weeks of age they are permitted to roost in trees.
CHAPTER X.
FATTENING AND MARKETING — FEATHERS.
After the first of October, especially if frosts have
lessened the supply of insects and other food which they
have gathered themselves, begin issuing extra rations to
your turkeys. This is to keep them in good growing con-
dition until the fattening begins, which should be three
or four weeks before Thanksgiving. Tor breakfast, feed
boiled potatoes, carrots, sweet apples, etc., mixed with
bran and corn meal, seasoned with black pepper once or
twice a week, and twice a week add pulverized charcoal
to the food. At night give whole grain. Keep pure watei
or milk in convenient vessels for drink.
Three weeks before Thanksgiving, separate from th
rest of the flock all that you design for the Thanksgiving
market. This separation is necessary, because it is not
desirable to fatten those which are to be kept over for
breeding stock, or the late-hatched ones that are not yet
large enough for market. Feeding the whole flock extra
rations of fattening food is not only a waste of food, but
works injury to all which are not soon to be killed.
But do not confine the flock to be fattened in small
pens; remember, the nature of the birds requires liberty;
rather confine those which you wish to keep over. Turkeys
having full liberty will devour much food and take on fat
rapidly. Fattening turkeys will not wander so much, as
after being put on full feed they will be more content to
remain nearer home.
Give the fattening turkeys all they can eat four times
a day, from the time when you commence full feeding
until twenty-four hours before slaughtering time.
73
FATTENING AND MARKETING— FEATHEES. ?3
first three of the daily meals should be of cooked potatoes
and corn meal, or of corn meal scalded with milk or water,
and the last of whole corn, varied with wheat or buck-
wheat. Always use corn a year old; new corn causes
much trouble and may kill them. Give the first meal as
soon as possible after daylight, and the last just before
dark. Feed each time all they will eat up clean, but leave
no food by them. Feed the pounded charcoal occasion-
ally, and keep a supply of gravel where they can help
themselves. Twenty days of such feeding will put turkeys
that have been growing and in good health, in the best
possible condition for market. In Rhode Island, turkeys are
not fed much in September and October, but in November
they get all the whole old corn they will eat, but are kept
away from barns and buildings.
TURKEY BROILERS FOR FANCY PROFITS.
Turkey raisers who are located near summer resorts
where the wealthy congregate, can probably make a mar-
ket for turkey broilers. At places like Newport, and
similar resorts, there is a demand for such birds in «Fuly
and August. They may be sold when they weigh fi'om
one and one-half to four pounds each, and bung from $1.75
to $2. 25 each. They are generally sold by the price or
pair, instead of by the pound.
Near by raisers can control this trade, because turkeys
at this age cannot be shipped long distances. If dressed,
they are so lean and tender that they do not keep well.
If placed on ice, they become discolored in a very short
time.
Where more young turkeys are raised than can be
brought to maturity without overstocking the place, it
will be wise to seek such a market for the surplus, or for
all of them, where disease is almost sure to kill them off
after they become larger.
TURKEY CULTURE.
CATCHING TURKEYS IN THE FALL.
Beginners, especially, have much difficulty in securing
their turkeys when they desire to kill and market them.
A bungling and unsuccessful attempt to catch a flock may
make them so suspicious that they cannot be surrounded
or approached the remainder of the season. Repeated
attempts to catch them increases their wildness, and fre-
FIG. 21. PROM A PHOTOGRAPH OF BROWNING & CHAPPELL'S FLOCK,
RHODE ISLAND.
quently the only way to secure them has been to shoot
them, This is more apt to be the case if the stock con-
tains wild bloodo Old hands at the business have learned
by experience the proper course to pursue. The usual
plan is to get the birds into a barn or carriage shed and
shut them in. In order to do this they are fed for a long
time in front of or just within the place in which they
FATTENING AND MARKETING — FEATHERS. 75
are to be caught. Later, the feed is placed within the
building, and they become so familiar with it that they
are unsuspicious when within. The feeder takes pains not
to appear to notice or watch them, and moves about very
slowly and quietly. When they are to be caught, the
doors of the building are suddenly closed, or a covered
yard of wire netting is built in front of the building
and closed when all are in. Usually when they find
they are confined, they become frightened, and fly back
and forth, or huddle up in corners, and sometimes
many are smothered beneath the pile of frightened
birds. In flying back and forth against the netting,
their wings become bruised, and their appearance when
dressed is injured.
To overcome this drawback, certain raisers have im-
proved the usual makeshift catching place by building a
long, low, dark pen back of the barn or shed. This pen
extends alongside of the building, and is at right angles
with the entrance to it, and at the extreme end is about
two feet high. Up to the time of their being caught, the
end is left open and the birds frequently find their way
through it. When closely approached from the front,
when feeding in the building, they rely upon this means
of escape and are not frightened. When they are to be
caught, only what the pen will comfortably take, are driven
in. They do not discover that the end is closed until it is
too late to try to turn back. The turkeys that are not
to be caught are first driven away, otherwise they may be
alarmed and become unmanageable. No turkey that is thus
caught and has learned the mysteries of the trap, is ever
allowed to escape, or its suspicions would be communicated
to the others. When shut in this pen they are quiet,
and when a man goes to catch them there is no struggle ;
he simply reaches out and takes them by the legs. The
pen is too dark and narrow for them to fly, and too low
for them to crowd one upon another.
76 TUBKEY CULTURE.
KILLING AND PICKING.
*
Poultry shrinks about one-third in dressing. If you
make your own prices, bear this proportion in mind. Live
turkey at twelve cents a pound is nearly the same as six-
teen cents dressed, not reckoning the cost of labor in
dressing. If you market your turkeys where you get
eighteen cents dressed, you cannot afford to sell them
alive for less than thirteen and one-half cents a pound,
unless you deduct cost of dressing, which is worth about
eight cents per head.
Deprive the birds of food and drink for twelve hours
previous to killing,, This length of time is sufficient to
empty the crop, which is necessary to have the dressed
turkey keep well. If starved for more than twelve hours,
the birds begin to pine, or shrink in flesh, giving them
more or less of a woody appearance. The length of time
they are confined without food beyond twelve hours,
will affect the appearance of the stock. Kill by bleed-
ing in the mouth or neck, and pick clean, but do not
attempt to stick poultry in the mouth unless you under-
stand it, because, if not properly done, they will only
half "bleed out," and when being picked, the blood will
follow every feather, giving the bird a bad appearance,
and rendering it almost unsalable. Never stun them by
knocking on the head or pounding on the back, as it causes
the blood to settle, and injures the sale of the stock. If
you sell the birds with the heads removed, kill them by
beheading; leavnig the neck as long as possible.
Have two stout cords hang from a joist or horizontal
pole overhead, with a loop in the lower end of each.
Place a loop over each foot of the turkey, and have the
body hang at a convenient hight for you to pick, stand-
ing. After killing, hang the body quickly, and remove the
feathers before the body gets cold ; pull out tail and wing
feathers clean. Practice will soon perfect you in this, so
FATTENING AND MAKKETING — FEATHERS.
77
that you will have all done, the intestines drawn and all,
while there is yet heat in the body.
For the Boston market it is fully as well to leave head
on and entrails in, on all turkeys up to the regular Thanks-
giving shipments, but no turkeys should ever be scalded
for this market. Never remove liver, heart or gizzard.
Por the New York, Philadelphia and Chicago markets, tur-
keys should never, at any time or at any season, be drawn
or headed, and scalded stock will sometimes Sell fully as
well in those markets as dry picked.
PACKING AND SHIPPING.
In packing turkeys, assort them carefullys putting the
large ones, also the small ones and any old bulls, each by
FIG. 22. TURKEYS PACKED FOR MARKET.
themselves, and mark the number of turkeys in the pack-
age. During Thanksgiving week, large fancy turkeys,
weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds each, generally
command the best prices of the year. The market is then
usually filled with "fair to poor" stock, which goes at low
figures ; but even ten-pound turkeys, fat and well dressed,
bring good prices, unless, as is sometimes the case, warm,
rainy weather demoralizes the market. Make your pack-
ages as uniform as possible. Nice boxes of regular dimen-
sions are much better than irregular ones. We subjoin a cut
giving best sizes used for turkeys and chickens, and show-
ing style of packing generally preferred by our customers
TURKEY CULTURE.
Western shippers who send large quantities had better
adopt these packages and style of packing, even if at con-
siderable trouble and expense, as it will give them a de-
cided advantage over other shippers who use old boxes of
all sizes, ready to fall apart on arrival — because, when ship-
ped as above suggested, it insures quick sales, prompt
returns and highest market prices for quality of stock.
During cold weather, poultry can be shipped any day
in the week, either by express or freight. It should be
entirely cold, but not frozen, before being packed. Boxes
are the best packages. Line them with paper and pack so
closely that the contents cannot move, but never use
straw, and never wrap dressed poultry in paper. On the
cover, distinctly mark the kind and quality of contents —
the gross weight and correct tare in plain figures, thus :
20 NO. 1
Turks.
250
40
210
ADDRESS OF COMMISSION
MERCHANT.
Choice
Chicks.
125
20
"lO?
ADDRESS OF COMMISSION
MERCHANT.
Also the merchant's name and that of the shipper, unless
he is known by the number of his stencil. Stencils are
furnished free for this purpose, when desired. When the
correct tare of a package is omitted, the entire contents
have to be removed to ascertain the weight of the poultry,
and if frozen, it is often impossible to do this without
tearing the package to pieces, and if not frozen, it causes
much extra work and delay, which will sometimes prevent
the sale, especially if the customer is in a hurry, as is
usually the case in the busy poultry season. All these
little points should be closely observed by turkey raisers
and shippers, for they all count in selling turkeys to the
best advantage and at the least expense.
FATTENING AND MARKETING — FEATHERS. 79
BEST TIME TO SELL.
The greatest market for dressed turkeys is Boston, but
it is more particular than Western and Southern market
centers. Yet the best goods sold at the right time will
always command the best prices in any market. W. H.
Kudd, Son & Co., one of the largest concerns in the turkey
and poultry commission business, in addition to the above
directions for packing and shipping, write :
In years past few shipments of turkeys were received
on this market previous to Thanksgiving, but it has been
the aim of producers and shippers to make earlier ship-
ments each year, until at present we can say our season
for young, small turkeys ( "chicken turkeys, "so called)
opens in September. Some lots, in the vicinity of New-
port and other celebrated shore resorts, are offered as
chicken turkeys to broil, as early as August ; but the gen-
eral market is not supplied until the middle of September.
There is, at this time, a very limited demand for a few
small turkeys to broil, but the market is overstocked with
this grade after a few shipments have arrived, and shippers
are advised to send none dressing under eight pounds
each. The majority of early shipments are from Indiana,
Southern Illinois and Ohio, and the market generally opens
at twenty to twenty-five cents per pound, but is dependent,
in a few days, on the supply and demand, an oversupply
sometimes forcing the market, in October, to very low
figures. Shipments from Vermont and New Hampshire,
the early part of October, have for the last few years held
Suite steady at twenty cents for large nine- or ten-pound
turkeys, and as at this time they need not be drawn or
headed, it is quite profitable to the raiser to make early
shipments. Stock, at this season, should be ice packed,
and the bulk from Western points are packed in barrels.
The early part of November, Kentucky commences
shipments to our market, and the quality of stock from
this State has shown a great improvement in the past three
80 TURKEY CULTURE.
years. Stock from there is generally headed and packed
dry in boxes and shipped by express, and for some years
we have seen but few lots at this time that have not come
through in good condition. It is question whether it is
necessary or not, to draw and head any turkeys before the
regular Thanksgiving shipments, as up to that time we
think all lots will bring fully as much not drawn or headed.
Boston, at Thanksgiving time, is the distributing point
for all cities and large towns in New England ; the bulk of
shipments first arrive here, and the number of turkeys dis-
posed of five days previous to that time is enormous, some
FIO. 23. OPEN CRATE FOB SHIPPING DRESSED TURKEYS IN COOL
WEATHER.
of £he large commission houses sometimes selling $10, 000
to $12,000 worth the Monday previous. Shipments intend-
ed for this trade should always be timed to arrive here not
later than Saturday or Monday previous, and some shippers
have found it advantageous to get their stock here one or
two days earlier. There is a special poultry train through
parts of Vermont and New Hampshire, which lands their
shipments the Saturday afternoon previous to Thanksgiving,
and raisers should arrange to get all their large-sized
turkeys here for Thanksgiving, as they are wanted at that
FATTENING AND MARKETING — FEATHERS. 81
time as large as possible, while later in the season smaller
sizes command a premium. After Christmas, stock weigh-
ing over twelve pounds each are hard sellers, but for the
Thanksgiving trade there is a demand for as large stock as
can be produced, and for some years past extra large fancy
stock from New England points has ranged in price from
Eighteen to twenty cents, the latter quotation being ex-
treme, and only for exceptionally fine stock. Fourteen
cents has been a fair average for fine Western stock, the
range being twelve to sixteen cents, with No. 2 stock ten
cents or under. But few lots of turkeys from the New Eng-
land States are received here after Thanksgiving, every-
thing of suitable size generally having been rushed in at
that time, and from then until shipments cease in February
or the early part of March, the supply is dependent on the
Western States.
At Christmas there is some demand for large turkeys,
but medium sizes are called for, the prices at this time
ranging from twelve to fourteen cents for stock of good
quality. Dealers buying to place in cold storage for the
spring and summer trade, take advantage of any unusually
low prices at this time, but the general bulk of cold stor-
age stock is placed through January and February, and
usually at prices ranging from eleven to thirteen cents. The
regular shipments from the West are generally cleaned up
by the last of February, and stock arriving after this date
is much below cold storage stock, as regards quality ; that
stored being depended on for best trade until the new crop
begins to move again, in September and October. There are,
of course, regular shipments through the spring and sum-
mer months, of fresh-killed ice-packed turkeys, old hens
and toms, but such stock is about the same quality as fowl
and old cocks, and the range in price is wide, from eight to
eleven cents per pound.
There are not enough turkeys' eggs arriving on this
market at any season of the year to establish quotations.
82 TURKEY CULTURE.
Late in the season a few are received from the West and
North, mixed in with hens' eggs, and which sell at the
same price.
TURKEY FEATHERS.
There is some profit in saving and marketing turkey
feathers, but this depends largely upon circumstances.
The choicest tail feathers are worth more than any other
kind, and are put to various uses. An industry which
has grown to considerable proportions in the last few years
is the manufacture of feather dusters from turkey tail
feathers. These, to a certain extent, replace ostrich feather
dusters, which are so expensive as to put them out of the
reach of very many people. Carefully selected turkey tail
feathers are freed from imperfections, and so much of
the quill split away that the " backbone" of the feather
is elastic, yet strong. These are grouped, and bound and
finished into a very serviceable duster. A few of the wing
feathers are used in this way. Another use of certain
choice feathers is in making featherbone, entering into
dress stays. At certain seasons and in certain years, there
is a considerable demand for white turkey feathers for use
in the millinery trade, decking the bonnet of a fashiona-
ble woman, who rests content in the belief that she is
wearing a Parisian headdress made perfect by ostrich
feathers from South Africa. A certain class of trade
handles only body feathers, having no use for those with
stiff quills. Choice body feathers are very much used for
cheap pillows and for mattresses; they must, however, be
treated by a process which makes them soft and fluffy, and
the prices paid for the feathers in the raw state are usually
so low as to prevent much profit in the handling of them.
The most favorable time to market turkey feathers is
late in the fall and during the winter and early spring
months. Then there is a larger demand, and established
market prices at all leading cities, while during the sum*
FATTENING AND MARKETING— FEATHERS. 83
mer the inquiry is irregular and quotations often purely
nominal. To command any sort of attention in the mar-
ket, the feathers should be dry-picked after the turkey is
killed and before being scalded. Scalded turkey feathers
are shown very little favor in any market and are often
quite unsalable. They are frequently received in the big
markets in such poor shape that they are sent to the dump.
The best way to ship feathers is in crates or light boxes.
They should be sorted, tail, wing and pointers. The lat-
ter are used only in making corsets, and can be packed in
any style, a good way being in muslin sacks. The wings
and tail feathers should be handled carefully and kept
clean. The tail feathers should be free from body feathers
in order to bring top prices. Shippers sometimes send
wing, tail and pointers, without sorting. While they will
sell this way, the price is based on an allowance for the
cost of separating and repacking. The feathers should be
laid straight and packed tightly. Shoe or hat boxes are
well suited for this, or light cases made of laths will be
found strong enough, and still afford a saving in freight or
express charges. A point to be remembered is that the
feathers must not be jammed and packed crosswise, but
should appear regularly placed when the box or crate is
opened.
Unless large numbers of turkeys are slaughtered, it may
not pay to ship the feathers. But when one dresses the
turkeys of an entire neighborhood, it might be well to sort
the feathers and find a market for them. At times, a de-
mand exists for pure white wing and tail feathers, at a slight
premium over colored feathers. The proportion of white
feathers, clean and perfect, is so small, however, as to
scarcely pay for the time and labor of sorting. To com-
mand top prices they must be sorted clean of all short
feathers. This is a slow and laborious undertaking to any
but an expert feather sorter, and if such is employed espe-
cially for the purpose, the added cost frequently equals
84 TURKEY CULTURE.
the net value of the feathers after deducting freight, cart-
age and commission charges. The subjoined table repre-
sents recent quotations in Chicago, and the price at St.
Louis and other leading markets is much the same, freight
differences considered. The rate of freight from interior
shipping points can be readily learned, remembering that
the railroad company charges for one hundred pounds for
any single package weighing less than that.
Turkey tail, choice and clear, per pound, ... 15 and 25 cents
Turkey tail, mixed with skirt feathers, ... 12 and 18 cents
Turkey wing, from first two joints, . . • . . 8 and 12 cents
Turkey wing, tail and pointers, 6 and 12 cents
Turkey wing and tail, clear, 10 and 15 cents
Turkey wing and pointers, 6 and 8 cents
Turkey pointers • • . • Sand 4 cents
Turkey body, dry and choice, 2 and 3 cents
CHAPTEE XL
SHELTER— MARKING.
As mentioned before, much housing of turkeys is not
needed. Health, vigor and strength of constitution, both
in the parent and young stock, are the all-important con-
siderations. High roosts, if they perch out of doors, are
necessary, that foxes, etc, do not get them. Large fence
rails set horizontally on uprights, ten or twelve feet from
the ground, are the next best things to the large limbs of
trees. In the more northern latitudes the housing need
not begin until snow falls. The birds should always roost
near the house or barn, that they may be kept tame.
There is more danger that turkeys will be kept in too
warm houses, than in too cold. A tight house with
draughts from a ventilator, such as is used with common
hens, would be too confining for turkeys. The healthy
adult can stand almost any amount of cold, rain or snow,
but must have cold, pure air, and a dry place to roost and
to stay in when he feels like it. Observe the nature of
wild turkeys in this respect. A windbreak is highly de-
sirable, but a house is not the thing for old turkeys unless
it is the size of a barn and built as open.
At the Khode Island Station, although the turkey house
was airy and high, the young turkeys which were allowed
to roost therein did not thrive. The slat door was open
after dark, that they might leave in the morning as early
as they chose, but they seemed to be affected unfavorably.
Those allowed full liberty and outdoor roosts were much
more thrifty. During the winter it was the same with the
old turkeys that roosted in the house. Young and old were
out of condition and had colds, with swelled faces, vhile
85
86 TURKEY CULTURE.
those in the trees seemed bright and healthy. The con-
trast was so great that in midwinter, during the coldest
weather, those roosting in the building were shut out and
compelled to roost in the trees, and in a few days they
had improved and many of them were as well as ever.
The shed was kept perfectly clean and they were not over-
crowded. Satisfactory results may be obtained in winter
if the roosts are placed in the center of an old, empty hay
barn, with quarter-inch cracks between the boards on all
sides. The less housing turkeys have, except as described
for young turkeys, the better.
When turkeys are confined, a dust bath is indispensable.
Take two boards, each four or five feet long, set them on
edge in one corner of your house, where there is good light,
so as to form a square, and fill it with dry loam in late
summer or early fall. Sifted coal ashes may be used to
mix with the loam, but wood ashes should not, unless they
first be leached ; even then, they will prove of more value
to you on your garden soil. Never, in any case, allow
wood ashes to mix with poultry manure. The alkali of
the ashes liberates the ammonia of the manure, and be-
sides the dreadful odor which arises, you lose much of the
fertilizing properties of the manure.
TUEKEY SHEDS.
Turkey sheds are for housing young turkeys in stormy
or boisterous weather. Almost always in May we have, in
the Northern States, a cold rain storm, lasting from three
to nine days, that will kill more turkey chicks, unless they
are guarded from exposure to the rain, than the ax will
kill at the next Thanksgiving. When the farmer's wife
has but two or three broods of young turkeys, she can
move them into dry coops in the barn, woodshed, or any
place where they can be kept dry, until pleasant weather
returns, but the turkey grower who intends to grow 200 to
500 or 1000 turkeys will find turkey sheds necessary. Prop-
SHELTER— MARKING. 8?
erly constructed and judiciously used, they will save their
entire cost in one or two seasons.
Build them any convenient length, twenty or more feet.
Let the width be ten feet at the bottom, roof ten feet,
with a receding front seven and one-half feet high, and
four and one-half feet high in the rear. Have the roof
boards project a little in front, and six or eight inches at
the rear. It can be made of rough boards battened, and
£he roof covered with Standard roofing paper. Keep the
mother hens in coops in the back part of the shed, and give
the little turkeys the freedom of the floor. On pleasant
days, after the dew is off, open the doors and give all lib-
erty until night, but on rainy days keep the broods shut in.
Move the coops often and rake the sand. In a shed like
this, say twenty feet long, you can shelter one hundred to
one hundred and twenty-five young turkeys easily, until
they are grown of sufficient size and age to be out at all
times in all weathers.
Sheds for sheltering broods of little turkeys at night
may be made, as shown in Figs. 19 and 20. These are six
feet long, three feet wide, three feet high in front, and
two feet at rear. Of course they may be made higher
and wider. Slats are best for front, if sheds are large,
as there is less danger of injury to turkeys by flying
against them.
MARKING TURKEYS FOR IDENTIFICATION.
SAMUEL CCTSHMAN.
As previously stated, turkeys do not thrive unless al-
lowed free range. If enclosed in a large park by woven
wire fence, or kept on an island, they can be controlled,
but when given full liberty they roam over adjoining
farms. In a neighborhood where many keep them, the
different flocks are liable to meet, run together and get
pretty well mixed. If not separated immediately, thejr
may roost together, and roam as one flock tfce rest of the
88
TURKEY CULTURE.
Trent Toe M Ark s
Rear Toe Marks
FIG. 24. SUGGESTIONS FOB MARKING TURKEYS BY THEIR FEET.
SHELTEE — MASKING. b9
season. The first night a flock fails to return to its home
roost, it should be looked up, separated from the other
flocks and driven home. To do this is comparatively easy
if immediately attended to, but each day they run to-
gether makes their separation more difficult.
To readily distinguish their own birds, many raisers try
to have turkeys of a different color from any of those of
their neighbors. By breeding for several seasons from a
gobbler of a breed different from those kept near by, the
flock takes on characteristics of its own, and each individ-
ual is readily distinguished. The White, Buff, Slate and
Red or Golden varieties are valued principally for such
use by growers. An additional advantage is gained, be-
cause first crosses between pure breeds are much more
hardy, and some combinations are much larger. The
grading up of common stock by the repeated use of males
of a pure breed also improves its profitable qualities.
This means of identifying a flock is an excellent one,
but is not sufficient for all purposes, for it is often desira-
ble to distinguish the birds of a flock from each other, the
stock raised one year from that of another, or that of a
favorite hen or gobbler. Your turkeys may be lost among
similar colored birds, or they may be captured by thieves,
and dressed before you get a clue to them. If you have a
private mark you can tell them, dead or alive. A private
brand is desirable, for many reasons.
In turkey-raising sections, where there is a flock on
nearly every farm, a system of marking their feet is fol-
lowed. This is done by clipping off one or more of their
nails, or tips of their toes, as soon as the little turkeys are
hatched. At this age they take very little notice of the
operation, and there is little or no bleeding. Each raiser
has a different mark, and in some towns these are regis-
tered at the town clerk's office, the same as the brands of
sheep or cattle. As a turkey has three front and one back
toes on each foot, or eight toes altogether, many different
90 TURKEY CULTURE.
brands may be made by clipping the different toes. The
illustration on Page 88 shows some of them.
Six different marks may be made by clipping only one
front toe. Nine more by clipping bu,t two front toes. By
clipping either the right or left back toe, the number may
be doubled or trebled. By clipping more toes, combina-
tions almost without number may be made, but it will be
rarely necessary to remove more than one to two nails,
even in a turkey-growing section.
Should mature turkeys thus marked be stolen and
dressed, they may be identified, as the marks cannot be
changed without showing the fresh mutilation. The marks
of little turkeys may be changed without detection, pro-
vided sufficient time passes to allow them to heal before
they are examined. The more toes you clip, the more dif-
ficult it is to change your marks.
Other marks, in addition to the foot marks, are some-
times necessary. The beak may be filed, holes punched in
the skin or web of the wing, or a loop of colored silk fas-
tened in the flesh where it can not be seen. Although
you may feel that such a precaution is not necessary in
your case, probably if you follow this practice, you will at
some time be very glad that you have done so.
CHAPTER XII.
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES.
The chief hindrances and obstacles to turkey growing
are human and animal thieves, lice and disease. You can
always find a market for your dressed turkeys; you can
generally make satisfactory arrangements with your neigh-
bors, if your birds trespass upon their land ; but all the
obstacles may be overcome by patience, perseverance and
intelligence. In the more thickly settled portions of the
country, thieves are the worst enemies the poultry grower
has. In some parts of New England, poultry thieving
seems to be a profession with some people, as "our court
records, when a culprit is caught, will show. But these
thieves rarely steal in their own neighborhood. They cen-
ter in some large town or city, and go out by night, with
teams, five, ten, and sometimes twenty miles in their
predatory excursions. If your turkeys roost out of doors,
it will be necessary to keep one or more dogs to warn you
of the approach of the thieves. You cannot shoot them as
you can foxes and coyotes, but you can do something
which the thieves dread more than the shot gun ; cause
their arrest. As your action must be determined by the laws
of the place where you live, no further advice can be given
than always to bear in mind that eternal vigilance is the
price of success in turkey raising.
Of animals, dogs do more mischief than foxes. If you
cannot cure your dog of worrying turkeys, shoot him. For
other animals, the gun, traps and poison, judiciously used,
are effective remedies.
Lice, a great annoyance to the poultry keeper, may be
exterminated from your flock, if they get possession, but it
92 TURKEY CULTURE.
Is easier to keep them away. If the sitting hen or turkey
has been treated with insect powder, as advised in the
chapter on Incubation, no lice will be on the mother or
In the nest to begin work on the newly hatched poult.
But if they do come, — and they may in spite of all pre-
cautions,— you must quickly rid the birds of them or your
losses will be great. If the young turkey begins to droop,
refuses to eat, and acts depressed, at once examine the head
for lice. You may find three or four large brown ones half
buried in the flesh. Remove them and rub the head with
sweet oil, or fresh lard mixed with kerosene. Examine,
also, the ends of the wings. There you may find some
large gray lice, which must be treated in like manner. If
you know that all insects, from the largest dragon fly to
the minutest hen louse, have no lungs like animals, but
breathe through countless pores in their skin, — the same
as though we breathed through the pores in our skin in-
stead of through our nostrils, — then you must know that
anything which closes those pores quickly, produces suffo-
cation. The best two things known to do that are oil and
Pyrethrum (Persian insect powder). Neither produces
any harm to lung-breathing creatures. Having applied
the oil to the head and the wings, throroughly apply Py-
rethrum to the rest of the body by means of a little
blower, which can be obtained at a drug store. Also dust
the mother turkey at night the same way. Never use sul-
phur on young turkeys. Carefully watch your flock, and
if you detect the lice again, go through the same opera-
tion. When the poults are fully feathered and have
"thrown the red," they can wander about and keep the
lice away themselves. If the broods are cooped, thor-
oughly scald their coops with boiling suds; burn the lit-
ter in them, replacing it with a fresh supply. Filth will
soon make short work of them. Feed on clean surfaces.
Give them full liberty on dry, warm days, and keep a
space of dry sand at all times convenient, for gf it and
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 93
PREVENTION OF DISEASES.
Although the greatest trouble in raising turkeys maybe
due to a lack of vigor or hardiness, — the result of breed-
ing from young, inferior or closely related stock, — there is
no question but that turkeys, as well as other living crea-
tures, are liable to be destroyed by diseases which even the
most vigorous may not escape, if exposed to the most viru-
lent form. Overfeeding, underfeeding, lack of exercise
and various influences may make individuals more suscep-
tible, but certain infections are so powerful as to over-
come even the strongest and finest specimens.
The Rhode Island Experiment Station says : * ' Cholera,
scarlet fever, diphtheria, and many other serious diseases
which affect man, are all prevented from becoming gen-
eral by nearly the same means. These diseases are propa-
gated by germs given off by the patient. If infected per-
sons are not immediately separated from the well, and iso-
lated,— prevented from coming in contact with others,—
they would cause an epidemic, which, once well started,
might sweep the country. Not only are such patients
kept in quarantine, but those who care for them are also
prevented from coming in direct contact with the well.
When the disease has run its course, the patient, the at-
tendants, the rooms occupied, and every article that the
germs may have come in contact with, are disinfected, —
cleansed with some solution that kills germs. If this is
properly done, all of the germs within doors are destroyed.
If this were not done, every one using the same rooms,
clothing or articles in the room, would be liable to infec-
tion, even a long time after the patient had vacated the
premises. Germs of disease may dry up, and, if not de-
stroyed, again become active a long time after, if given
suitable soil to grow in. They grow faster and multiply
with greater rapidity in some soils, and, as in the case ol
weeds grown in sand and rich loam, the ranker the
growth, the more rapidly they spread, the greater the
TUKKEY CURTUKE.
PIG. 25. NO MORE TROUBLE FROM STRAYING TURKEYS.
This Illustration shows Mr. Dawley's turkey park, described on Page 112 of
this book. The fence illustrated above is a cheap but very durable affair
made solely by the Page Woven Wire Fence Co., of Adrian, Mich.
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 95
number of germs thrown off and the greater their power.
Living surfaces having healthy secretions are poor soils
for germs, while abnormal secretions may enable them to
thrive. Filth and decaying matter nourish certain germs,
Healthy organs resist and may destroy a certain quan-
tity of disease germs, but may be overcome by a much
greater number.
"Purchasing birds here and there in making up a flock,
may bring all sorts of diseases and parasites together, thus
infecting a place at the start to such an extent that it is
hard to get rid of them. Each new bird should be thor-
oughly examined for disease of any kind and treated for
lice before being allowed to run with others. A few days'
quarantine is very desirable. Do not buy birds showing
the slightest trace of disease. Avoid all that are suspi-
cious, for a mild case of disease may introduce a serious
trouble. Keep your flocks away from those of your neigh-
bors, as a single infected fowl or turkey may infect a
dozen or more different flocks, if allowed to run with them
on common ground. Isolate your own stock from that of
others as completely as possible. Do not feed uncooked of-
fal. Entrails of animals are liable to contain parasites and
germs of disease that will affect fowls, therefore should be
long and well cooked before being fed to any living thing.
Do not feed milk from cows that are suspected of having
tuberculosis. Do not allow persons having consumption to
expectorate where they are. Every fowl which dies from
any cause should be subjected to post-mortem examina-
tion. Persons making such examination should make sure
that the skin of their hands is not cut or abraded. This
would make them liable to receive infectious matter that
might result in blood poisoning. All instruments used in
post-mortem examinations should, as well as the hands, be
afterwards cleansed in a solution of some antiseptic, like
carbolic acid. By such examinations a disease may be
discovered before it becomes very prevalent. It is best
96 TURKEY CULTURE.
to sacrifice inferior and sickly specimens, as they are usu-
ally the first to become infected, and are apt to become
disease breeders. Carcasses of diseased birds should be
promptly buried, deep under ground, in a location remote
from the haunts of fowls or animals, or, better still, boiled
or burned, that the infectious germs may be destroyed.
Coops or buildings that have been occupied by them, or
the ground where they have lain, should be thoroughly
sprayed or drenched with a solution of copperas or carbolic
acid. The great benefit in doctoring fowls whose worth is
but a few dollars, lies principally in the preventive treat*
ment of large numbers at one time. An early diagnosis ot
a disease makes this possible. But one has to be on the
alert to observe signs of sickness on first appearance, and
something of an expert to recognize what it is, the cause
and cure.
"Immediate isolation and disinfection should be as
promptly enforced in the case of diseased turkeys as with
diseased persons. Every infected flock is a menace to
other flocks. Kill and burn, or bury deep, all diseased
birds, disinfect that which they have contaminated, if pos-
sible, and remove the survivors to fresh, uncontaminated
land, and keep this up. Other turkeys should be prevented
from going onto the infected land. This, in combination
with the use of vigorous stock only, bred and fed and cared
for according to the best methods, should do away with
the mortality among turkeys."
DIARRHOEA. — Of diseases, the most to be dreaded are
diarrhoea and roup, when the turkeys are fed and housed
like fowls. Diarrhoea attacks the young, and is caused by
exposure to cold and wet, lack of grit with their food, sour,
uncooked food, access to stagnant water, etc. Give scalded
milk to drink, and feed on hard-boiled eggs, stale bread
crumbs and boiled rice, according to your convenience,
Never give ' ' sloppy* ' food. Use black pepper freely. Some
of our essayists keep on hand and use occasionally whole
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 97
black pepper, for its wholesome properties. Adult turkeys
taken with diarrhoea can be fed with boiled rice, and thus
cured. I have cured a whole flock by the use of the
Douglas Mixture alone.* W
ROTJP is one of the most to be dreaded of all diseases
which afflict poultry. It rarely affects turkeys that are
not housed, pampered, or overfed, or that do not run with
fowls. The prominent cause is exposure to cold and wet.
So prominent is this, that the disease may be properly
called malignant catarrh. It is worse than influenza in
human beings. Prevention is better than cure. The con*
finement necessary to properly doctor roup would spoil p
turkey. Kill and bury the first case. Wring the necks or
the diseased ones and bury them so deeply that no disease
germs from them ever could come to the surface. Never
out off the head of a roupy fowl ; the very blood is poison.
If any of the pus from a diseased bird gets into your eyes
or on your hand where the skin is abraded, trouble will
ensue. Dry quarters for the young turkeys ; clean, whole-
some food and free range when the grass is not wet, will
keep your flock free from this scourge, if they are kept
away from diseased stock or contaminated premises.
The importance of this subject impels me to subjoin the
following extract from the publication of the Fancier^
Review called "Five Hundred Questions and Answers on
Poultry Raising. " It is a well-known fact that exposure
to cold and wet will cause — 1. Roup, as more correctly
stated, will produce acute inflammatory action and resulting
exudation, eventually embracing the entire surface of the
membranes of the nose, mouth, throat and windpipe. If
this exudation is not speedily checked, it degenerates into
* Folio wing is the formula for the Douglas Mixture:
Sulphuric acid, 2 ounces
Sulphate of iron (copperas), % pound
Water, 2 gallons
Keep in a stone jug or vessel. Add one tablespoonful to every quart
of water in the drinking vessel.
7
98 TURKEY CULTURE.
pus, which is the discharge present in the last two stages
of roup, and is the only mode in which this disease is dis-
seminated.
2. In this stage, termed diphtheritic roup, the exuda-
tive membrane, becoming permanent and pressing upon the
subjacent tissue, acts as a foreign body, causing ulcera-
tions to appear on the surface. These ulcerations are the
so-called "cankers."
3. This condition arrived at, there is a stagnation of the
nutritive processes, the blood becomes impaired, and scrof-
ula and liver disease supervene.
These conclusions have been arrived at after studying
the disease for three years, during which time diseased
fowls have been experimented upon, killing some at the
various stages and dissecting them. They are easily cured
in the first stage, curable in the second, and not worth
curing in the third.
The following will be found to be unequaled treatment
for all stages of the disease, combined with nutritious, soft
food:
Pills.— Sulphate of copper, half grain; cayenne pepper,
one grain; hydrastine, half grain; copaiba, three drops;
Venetian turpentine, quarter section. In pill, night and
morning.
Lotion. — Sulphate of copper quarter ounce, dissolved in
a pint of rain water. To wash out the mouth and nostrils,
if required.
The simplest means of preventing their drinking water
acting as a means of spreading the disease, is to add a lit-
tle tar water to it, prepared by stirring about one pound
of tar in two gallons of water and decanting the clear
water as required for use.
GAPES. — These are very fine red worms found in the
trachea or windpipe of young birds, most destructive to
chicks when they are from three to six weeks old. On many
farms in Khode Island, gapes had caused the death of fifty
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 99
f er cent of little turkeys for years, and many who suffered
such losses, while they realized the cause, were ignorant
that much could be done to prevent or cure the trouble.
It attacks all other poultry, also, being most prevalent in
July and August. The chief symptoms are a suppressed
cough and a peculiar gasping, from which
the malady is named. As many as twenty
or thirty of these worms, averaging five-
eighths of an inch in length, have been
found attached to the mucous membrane of
the trachea, which, together with the lungs,
was badly inflamed. This so-called forked
worm in reality consists of a male and fe-
male permanently united. Their food is
the blood of their host, which also gives
them a red appearance. The matured fe-
male contains several thousand eggs, which
emerge only after her death. It has been
said that the eel-like embryos never leave
the eggs while they are within the living
body of the mother, however complete the
development of both may be, and that only
by the death of the female and the destruc-
tion of its body are the ova placed at lib-
erty. Late investigations dispute this state-
ment. The embryo will emerge from the
egg if the surrounding medium offers fa-
vorable conditions. These are moisture Four times natural
and a temperature of at least 68 degrees worm is the m&ie,
the smaller one the
Fahrenheit. In a moist state, the eggs pre- female,
serve their vitality for months, or even a year, if the tem-
perature is kept below 59 degrees Fahrenheit, but under
these conditions the contents of the eggs eventually become
dissolved. If placed in a dry medium, like dry sand, their
contents dry up the more rapidly in proportion to the ele-
vation of the temperature. If an unimpaired egg is kept
100
TUBKEY CULTURE.
moist and subjected to a temperature of 77 degrees, the
embryo within the egg moves and turns about and finally
escapes by pushing away one of the coverlets. Twenty-
eight to thirty days of such a degree of warmth, with
moisture, is sufficient for the development of the embryo
and its escape from the shell. These
embryos live in water, where they
swim about in a serpentine manner.
They have been kept alive at this
stage almost a year by subjecting
them to a low temperature, but
with a temperature of from 68 to 77
degrees, they did not live more
than eight or ten days. The illus-
trations, Figs. 26 and 27, reproduced
from report of United States Bureau
of Animal Industry, 1884, represent
the various stages from the egg to
the mature worm attached to the
trachea.
Fowls become infected in sev-
eral ways, food and water containing
eggs or the live embryos being prob-
ably the two most common. The
vitality of gapeworm eggs is very
strong and may be preserved for a
long time in the soil or wherever
the eggs may fall. Birds affected
FIG. 27. WINDPIPE OF A with this malady frequently expel,
FOWL. jn a ^ o£ coughing plump gape-
Slit open and pinned back to
show a large number of the worms full of CggS. Other f owls
tapeworms attached to the
inside, natural size. near by consume with avidity the
worms thus ejected. Two or three weeks later these same
young fowls are sure to present symptoms of the malady.
Dr. H. D. Walker has pointed out that earthworms act
the part of host to the gapeworm embryo, and believes
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 101
that they are the prime means of spreading the gapes.
More recent experiments show that while earthworms in
infected soils often contain the embryos, the earthworm
is not a necessary host, because the disease is found where
earthworms are not natural to the soil. Dr. Walker still
maintains that if chicks are kept from eating earthworms,
they will not have the gapes. He argues that without
the aid of earthworms to carry gapeworms below the first
line, they would soon be exterminated in the North. He
admits that chicks fed on fresh eggs of the gapeworm
might not contract the disease, but thinks it is perhaps
because their digestion is so rapid that the eggs pass off
before they have time to hatch. Older chicks are not so
susceptible, because they have more power to dislodge the
worms from the trachea, and are not embarrassed by a few.
Wherever gape-infected chicks or poults have long been
kept, the ground becomes infected with the germs, and re-
mains infected just as long as chickens are kept there.
Curing the birds will not remove the infection, but if no
poultry are kept for a sufficient length of time, the infec-
tion dies out for want of necessary conditions for develop-
ment. It is folly to put young chicks on a plat of ground
or field infected with gapeworms, unless the soil is freed
from contamination. This can be done by spreading half
a bushel of fresh air-slaked lime on every hundred square
feet of ground. Chicks kept in pens for eight weeks, the
soil of which has thus been purified, usually escape infec-
tion. The same quantity of coarse salt may be used in
place of the lime, but it must be dissolved by water or
rain before the chicks are put in, or they may eat it and
die. Avoid giving water from an infected source. For
destroying the infection in the soil, water containing a
large quantity of salicylic acid or sulphuric acid is recom-
mended by Megnin.
There are many very old and effective remedies for re-
moving gapeworms. Air-slaked lime has long been usecl
102
TURKEY CULTURE.
and has been found to promptly remove the worms from
the trachea. Afflicted chickens are placed in a box, which
is covered with a sheet of thin muslin. On
this muslin is placed a handful of air-
slaked lime, the muslin is then jarred to
cause the dust of the lime to fall through,
which enters the lungs of the chickens and
causes them to cough off the worms. The
lime is supposed to affect the worms, which
release their hold or do not retain so strong
a hold on the windpipe. This is said to
do no harm to the chick and to be a sure
cure. •
Another old-fashioned method of treat-
ment, which seems to have been quite gen-
erally followed with great success, is to
confine the chickens to a canvas-covered
box while they are fumigated with the
fumes of carbolic acid. The fumes are
produced by pouring a teaspoonful of car-
bolic acid on a red-hot brick placed in the
corner of the box. If there is glass in one
end of the box, the chickens will huddle
against it and keep away from the corner
where the brick is, while their actions
may be watched through the glass. If the
fumes seem too dense, ventilation may
be given. A minute is usually long enough
to expose them to the fumes. By the use
of a sliding door in the box, the chickens
may be driven into the box from their
coop in any number desired. An upper
FIG. 28. CMCA compartment for the chickens, having a
0ceStJSytSb?e&iSS slat floor» Ullder which the acid is burned,
whiisenthetwoewin-s would be most satisfactory where a large
bli"d number are to be handled. Pr. Both, Mrs.
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES.
103
Carson, and many others, have long followed this plan of
treatment with great success. The only objection to it is
that if the chickens are fumigated too long, they may
be killed, as well as the worms. This treatment is also
valuable for the cure of roup. Another common practice
is to drop six drops of
strong salt and water
down the windpipe with
a feather, as it will
quickly and surely cure
them, and is simple and
not as severe as most
other remedies. Cam-
phor and water, cam-
phorated sweet oil and
crude petroleum, are
each recommended ; one
drop in the windpipe
from a medicine drop-
per, oil can or feather, is
said to be all that is nec-
essary to kill and cause
the removal of the
worms. A feather strip-
ped of its web, except at
the tip, and moistened
with a mixture of sweet
oil and turpentine, is
used by some. It is in-
serted in the windpipe,
and twisted as it is With- In " blackhead » disease.
drawn. Worms may be destroyed in this way, but it is
not practicable where large numbers of chickens are to be
treated. Some poultry keepers simply apply turpentine
externally to the mouths or throats of the chickens having
gapes. Fine tobacco, petroleum or kerosene, turpentine,.
FIG. 29. DISEASED C2BCA
Of turkey, thickened, enlarged and ulcerated
104
TUKKEY CULTUEE.
assafoetida and alum, all have been recommended for mix.
ing with the feed, to prevent and stamp out the gape dis-
ease. M. Megnin gives each pheasant seven and one-half
grains of assafoetida combined with the same quantity of
pulverized yellow gentian in their feed. Five to ten
drops of turpentine to a pint of meal and made into dough,
is used by some. When garlic or onions are faithfully fed,
the trouble is much reduced. The explanation is that the
volatile part of these substances,
being absorbed into the system,
is thrown off through the lungs
and brought into contact with the
parasitic worms in the windpipe,
to which it is fatal, and they are
ejected with the mucous. Meg-
nin recommends adding about
fifteen grains of salicylic acid to
each quart of the drinking water.
Prevention is better than a cure.
The importance of the total de-
struction of the parasites after
their removal, should be realized.
If the worms are killed and
thrown upon the ground, it is
scarcely likely that the mature
eggs will have sustained any in-
jury. Decomposition will set
One side or wing of the caecum cut „ , ,
open, showing its diseased state, free the eggs, the young embryos
escape and enter the soil, and ultimately may find their
way into the air passages of some bird. The worms, as
well as the dead bodies of anything affected with them,
should be burned, if we wish to prevent the spread of the
disease. If infected birds are buried, earthworms or
skunks may bring the infection to the surface.
Pools and wet places are supposed to be favorable to the
preservation and development of these germs. It has often
FIG.
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 105
been observed that gapes are more prevalent during a wet
spring and during those summers following a mild winter.
In stamping out this trouble, the importance of the addi-
tion of a small quantity of some germicide like carbolic
acid, salicylic acid, assafoetida or petroleum to the drink-
ing water, sufficient to destroy worms or eggs that are
ejected therein, should not be overlooked.
"BLACKHEAD" IN TURKEYS IS CONTAGIOUS.
For more than fifteen years there has been great loss
among turkeys raised in southern New England, from a
supposed contagious disease
known as "blackhead." It has
entirely prevented turkey rais-
ing on many farms, and has
caused great de-
struction. Pub-
lic attention was
fll lirst directed to
Prof. Cushman
Experiment
Station, in the FiG. 32.
Summer Of 1893. The other crecum
wir 31 mi from Fig 29, cut
The matter was crosswise to
One caecum from Fig. 29, slit open to show thicken-
show thickened mucous membrane, closely followed ing.
at that institution until the work was taken by the United
States Bureau of Animal Industry. A report on it ap-
peared in Bulletin 8 from that Bureau, which illustrated
and described the disease, and indicated that it might
be infectious. Circular No. 5, just issued by Y. A. Moore,
Chief of the Bureau of Animal Pathology, gives later re-
sults, showing conclusively that blackhead is contagious.
Not only is this true, but instead of being confined to the
New England coast, certain flocks in the Middle and
106
TURKEY CULTURE.
Western States are affected. The disease has extended
into the Western States, though not yet found in the
South, while the losses of Eastern turkey growers from
this source alone are very
large. Evidence accumu-
lates that the entire
Northern third of the
country is sprinkled with
infected districts. The
disease is usually accom-
panied by a diarrhoeal
discharge from the bowels,
while the head turns dark
or purple. It attacks
young turkeys at all ages,
and gradually develops.
More turkeys succumb to
the trouble in the latter
FIG- 33. part of July and early in
spotted liver due to "blackhead." August, and at the ap-
proach of cold weather, than at any other time. The
affected birds seem able to hold out against it during
warm, dry weather, but they quickly succumb in wet,
stormy weather. The turkeys dying from blackhead almost
invariably have a disease of the ,
liver and a part of the intes-
tine. The turkey is infected
early in life, and infection does
not take place later on ; hence,
it may be transmitted from old
FIG. 34,
to young. The disease appar- Natural size of spots on liver,
ently first affects the caecum or pronged part of the lower
bowel, which becomes thickened and enlarged and badly
ulcerated. The liver is also spotted, and in advanced
stages is covered with circular areas, showing destruction
of tissue within the organ (see Figs, 28 to 34 inclusive). The
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 107
changes in the liver and bowel are so pronounced when it
causes death that turkey raisers may in many instances
learn whether their own turkeys are affected by examin-
ing those that die. Blackhead is a hitherto undetermined
disease, and is caused by a minute organism, which places
the malady among the infectious diseases. It is now
demonstrated that turkeys Contract the disease from the
droppings of diseased birds. Hence sick birds must not
remain with the breeding birds, nor should stock be ob-
tained from infected sections. Broods of young turkeys
should be kept away from buildings where turkeys have
passed the winter, and be kept on ground uncontaminated
by the droppings of diseased turkeys or suspicious breeding
stock. The droppings from all roosting places should be
frequently and thoroughly collected, and the place well
dusted with air-slaked lime. If the disease is known to
exist in the flock, sprinkle the premises liberally with a
mixture of crude carbolic acid one-half gallon and crude
sulphuric acid one-half gallon, to which twenty gallons of
water are added. The droppings collected may be dusted
thoroughly with air-slaked lime, and mixed with several
times their bulk of muck or loam, to absorb the ammonia
that would otherwise escape, and thus become a valuable
fertilizer. Turkeys should not be fed on the same spot of
ground day after day, but as far as possible in a new place
every day, that the danger of infection through the food
and droppings may be lessened. Dr. Moore's circular
suggests that those who have recently had this disease in
their flocks should dispose of their old turkeys and begin
new by hatching turkey eggs under hens, or with turkeys
obtained from non-infected districts, "preferably from the
South, as this disease is not known to exist there."
108 TURKEY CULTURE.
PREVALENCE OF TAPEWORMS IN TURKEY&
PROF. SAMUEL CUSHMAN.
Our work with the disease known as "blackhead" ena-
bled us to examine the intestines of each bird the entire
length for tapeworms, and we found that they were more
generally infested than we had even suspected. Turkeys
affected with blackhead were free from tapeworms, but of
the sixty-five examined that showed no traces of that dis-
ease, the intestines of forty contained tapeworms. Worms
from a quarter of an inch to several inches in length were
found, and occasionally those a foot or more long. Some
birds contained only great numbers of very minute worms
in the upper intestine, others only large fully developed
worms in the lower intestine, while in still others small
ones were found in the upper, and numbers of long and
large ones in the lower intestine. In one or two instances
these worms were found only in the blind prolongation of
the lower intestine. One bird found in a dying condition
in a flock from which turkeys had been dying for over a
month, and from which thirty had been lost within a
week, was found to contain a very large number of tape-
worms of medium size, and no other cause for sickness
could be discovered. Frequently the lower part of the in-
testine was fairly crowded with great numb ers of long
worms. One little turkey three or four weeks old had
many small worms in the duodenum, and the remainder
of the intestines was almost completely filled with those
that were several inches long, about fifty in number. A
microscopical examination of apparently mature segments
by Dr. Smith, showed that ripe embryos were present.
As these sick turkeys come from many different farms
in various parts of the State, and but one or two
birds were secured from any one place, it seems that
this trouble is very prevalent among young turkeys
during the summer months in Rhode Island, and this
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 109
may account for loss of turkeys that is often reported
from other sections.
I am convinced that tapeworms cause the death of great
numbers of little turkeys, and that some suitable worm
medicine should be frequently given them throughout the
season. Turkeys are troubled with tapeworms from early
spring until late in the fall, and sometimes have spasms
from this cause. Very young turkeys suffer the most.
After they are three months old they are better able to with-
stand the injurious effect. The worms apparently irritate
the bowels, causing digestive derangement, diarrhoea,
weakness and death. At certain seasons, segments of
worms may be found early in the morning under the
roosts among the droppings of the infected turkeys. Evi-
dently the younger they receive the parasites, the more
they suffer. Doubtless if the birds survive until the
embryos have developed and have mostly passed out, they
may gradually recover. A few worms may do little harm,
while a great number may be fatal.
How the young receive the embryos in the spring is an
interesting question. Whether snails, worms or insects
harbor them and thus scatter the infection, or whether
they receive the infection from the droppings of old tur-
keys, is yet to be determined. Dr. Stiles, of the United
States Bureau of Animal Industry, says that ten different
species of tapeworms from chickens are described by inves-
tigators, and that according to certain Italian authors two
species— one of them the most common of all— pass their lar-
val stage in the house fly.
Another species, it is said, has for its intermediate
hosts various slugs, while another has a snail as its host.
Dr. Salmon thinks it will be found that earthworms,
insects and snails are the intermediate hosts for these
tapeworm embryos, and that there is, at present, no
reason for thinking they will be able to develop with-
out some intermediate host.
110 TURKEY CULTURE.
In whatever way young turkeys receive the embryos of
these parasites, doubtless they may be promptly freed
from them, and any injurious results prevented, by the fre-
quent use of simple worm medicines in their food or wa-
ter. The longer infected turkeys have been kept on a
farm, and the greater the number annually grown, the
more thoroughly will tapeworm eggs be sown upon the
land, and if slugs, snails and earthworms are their inter-
mediate host, the more generally will the turkeys contain
infecting embryos. Where there have been no tapeworm
eggs, snails and earthworms will not harbor the embryos,
and young turkeys will not become infected in this way.
If we can keep turkeys free from worms we will prevent
them from sowing the seed for the tapeworm crop ; there-
fore, dosing the breeding turkeys in the winter and spring
would be a preventive measure. Raise the little turkeys
on fresh, uncontaminated land that chickens or other turkeys
have not run upon for years, and give them an occasional
dose that will destroy tapeworm and gapeworm embryos.
Give up keeping turkeys, either old or young, on ground
infested for several years. Confine infected flocks to an
inclosure, and treat them with worm medicine until they
are free from worms; meanwhile, frequently disinfect the
ground in the pen, to destroy the eggs that pass off. Then
move them to new ground. If it is found that wild birds,
or any of the animals that wander over the same ground,
harbor the same tapeworms, additional measures will have
to be taken to entirely stamp out the infection.
Which of the well-known remedies for tapeworms in
animals is best suited to the turkey, and what amount
should be given to turkeys at different ages, are ques-
tions that naturally arise. Until we can advise on this
matter from knowledge gained by practical experience,
we leave it for turkey raisers to test for themselves.
Probably the best results may be expected from the use of
freshly powdered kousso or cusso. According to the
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES.
Ill
United States Dispensatory, the treatment for a human
being is, for an adult half an ounce ; for a child of six
years, one-fourth ounce ; taken in the morning upon an
empty stomach. A previous evacuation of the bowels is
recommended, and should the medicine not act on the
bowels in three or four hours, a brisk cathartic should be
administered. One dose is usually sufficient to destroy the
worms. Should the quantity mentioned not prove effect-
ive, the dose may be doubled. Kousso seems to act only
FIG. 35. TAPEWORM FROM A TURKEY.
Illustration of one selected from about fifty found in a turkey three or four
weeks old. There is so little known about tapeworms of fowls, and so much
confusion as to description and classification, that experts have been unable
to identify it. a, beau; b, neck; c, d and e, segments in various stages of de-
velopment. The segments or joints are formed next to the head, are gradu-
ally pushed back by the growth of new segments, and finally become terminal
(e), where they mature, separate and pass away. Each adult segment con-
tains complete male and female organs, and when it separates from the main
body, is full of embryos, which are supposed to find their way into some tem-
porary host before they reach their final host, the turkey.— Rhode Island Ex-
periment Station*
as a poison to the worms, and is said not to seriously af-
fect the patient. Koussein or kosin, the active principle
of kousso, is highly recommended, two scruples being the
dose for a man.
Male fern is an effective remedy, but an overdose is a
distinct poison. Six drams of the oil have caused the
death of a person. It has been known to cause blindness
in the lower animals, and should be used with extreme
112 TURKEY CULTURE.
caution. It is often given in combination with castor oil,
Tansy is much used as a preventive, and powdered areca
nut is used for the removal of tapeworms from dogs and
other animals. The latter is frequently combined with
male fern. Ground pumpkin seed is also used as a remedy.
The dose of these remedies would have to be much re-
duced for turkeys. Turkey raisers may administer very
light doses to a few turkeys, and larger doses to others,
and thus learn how great a quantity may be given to
healthy turkeys with impunity. It is to be hoped that
many may be able to apply these, remedies with success, and
immediately prevent loss from this cause. Assafoetida,
which is highly recommended for preventing and overcom-
ing the gapeworm disease of fowls, is also said to possess
virtues as a tapeworm remedy. This is administered either
in the food or water. M. Megnin, a French investigator,
gave each pheasant seven and one-half grains assafoetida,
combined with the same quantity of pulverized gentian, in
their food, and overcame the gapeworms. Turpentine ad-
ministered in slight quantities in the food is recommended
by some, and may possibly enable the turkey raiser to kill
both parasites.
LIVER DISEASE.— Turkeys may have enlargement and
other non-contagious diseases of the liver if inbred, overfed,
given too little chance for exercise, etc. All suspected
birds should be immediately slaughtered, examined and
buried.
LEG WEAKNESS.— Caused either by inherited constitu-
tional weakness, wrong food or bad management. Clean
such specimens out of your flock at once and avoid the
cause.
HOW TO KEEP TUKKEYS AT HOME.
Our illustration on Page 94 shows what is probably
the largest turkey ranch in the world. It is owned by F.
E. Dawley of Onondaga county, N. Y., who is manager of
the farmers' institute work in that State. He raises tur-
HINDRANCES AND DISEASES. 113
keys in « wholesale way, and entirely avoids any trouble
from thoir wandering away by keeping them in a large pas-
ture and 01 chard, fenced with the Page twenty-five-bar deer
park fence, eighty inches high. Many of the young poults
are hatched at home in incubators and raised in brooders,
and others are hatched on outside farms and brought
home in the fall. Their feed is made as nearly as possi-
ble to conform to the diet of turkeys roaming at large, by
giving butchers' scraps that have been run through a bone
mill, to take the place of insects, plenty of succulent
green stuff, and a good supply of broken limestone grit.
By careful account, Mr. Dawley finds that turkeys which
are kept in partial confinement will lay on flesh at a less
cost per pound than those which roam without restraint,
and the quality is much better. One of the most profita-
ble lessons learned from Mr. Dawley 's experience is, that
those who have had to give up turkey raising because of
the damage their birds have done to berries, grain or
other growing crops, can again take it up, and by build-
ing a park with this Page deer park fence, keep their flocks
enclosed during the season that they would do damage, and
let them out after the crops are harvested. They will not
fly out from a ten-acre enclosure unless by mistake. The
eighty-eight-inch fence keeps them, except that one or
two may occasionally rise near the center of the field
and soar so far that they come down on the outside. This
fence is very durable and remarkably cheap. Its merits
for fencing in turkey pastures should be known by all
raisers of this profitable fowl. The Page Woven Wire
Fence Co., of Adrian, Mich., also make wire fencing of
every sort and description for every possible purpose, and
will be happy to give particulars, free of cost, to all who
will write to them at Adrian, Mich., U. S. A.
One of the most valued parts of this turkey ranch is a
series of small yards made with the Page wire fence, in
which the laying hen turkeys are kept during the breed-
8
114 TURKEY CULTURE.
ing season, and let out each day after they have laid.
Such a yard as this will pay on nearly every farm where
turkeys are kept, because every egg can be secured, there
are no losses from crows, skunks, rats or other vermin, and
beside this, no time is lost in "hunting turkeys' nests," or
''watchin' a blamed hen turkey to her eggs."
This matter of keeping turkeys within bounds is often
a most serious one. Of course, turkeys can be marked on
their feet, according to the system described on Page 87.
Then, too, the system of " shingling, " as described on
Page 67, can be employed. But the latter is practical
only on a small scale for breeding turkeys, while the for-
mer involves a lot of work and does not prevent turkeys
from straying. Much " bad blood " is often caused be-
tween neighbors by the depredations of straying turkeys,
and turkeys often stray away and are lost. All these
troubles are obviated by the Page deer park fence, and
the experience of Mr. Dawley and others indicates that
this fencing can be profitably used for such a purpose,
while it is also profitable for fencing against other stock
CHAPTEE XIII.
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE.
Sei3Cted from one hundred and eighty-seven statements of their practical expe-
rience, sent to the Farm and Home by men and women in all parts of
the country who have achieved large success in raising
turkeys for profit.
FIRST-PRIZE ESSAY, BY MRS. A. J. SEXSON, FURNAS COUNTY, NEBRASKA.
The first requisite to successful turkey growing is care-
fully selected stock for parent birds. Selections of the best,
for years, have produced the most improved and profitable
breeds of stock. The future stock depends very much
upon the parent birds, or their ancestry. Kepeated breed-
ing from inferior birds makes inferiority hereditary. Af-
ter having faithfully tried the White, the Wild Black and
the Mammoth Bronze turkeys, I prefer the latter for sev-
eral reasons. They have proven hardier than the White,
are equally strong, more gentle and more easily handled
than the Black, less apt to roam far away and with proper
care are ready for market at an earlier age than either of
the other varieties, and I believe are less liable to disease.
After complying with the first condition and having se-
cured large, strong, parent turkeys, at least one year old,
see that they are in the right condition for breeding.
Breeding fowls should not be overfat, as the offspring of
such fowls are less vigorous. If the hens are young (late
hatched) they require more food at breeding time, as they
are still growing and immature. If hens are old they should
have millet and clover, where it can be grown, and less car-
bonaceous food in the latter part of the season. Too much
corn will produce overfat turkeys, unless they have abun-
dant exercise in insect hunting and plenty of green food.
When the laying season begins, usually in March, a watch-
115
116 TURKEY CULTURE.
ful lookout for the eggs must be kept. It is natural for
all turkeys to hide the nest, but petting will do much
toward keeping them near the house. Each egg should be
gathered as soon as laid and placed, small end down, on
cotton or some soft material and kept in a dry, cool, dark
place. If not used at once, they should be turned occa-
sionally, to prevent settling or adhering to the shell. As
tii<3 eggs are removed daily from the nest, it is better to
return a hen's egg, until there are five or six in the
nest, as a turkey is suspicious and easily discomfited.
My turkeys lay entirely in the grove near the house and
arrange their nests with skill themselves, my only task be-
ing to protect them from natural wild enemies. The nest
should always be dry and large, and on the ground if pos-
sible. Fifteen eggs are sufficient for a large hen, and if
small, thirteen will give better results. Four weeks, and
often thirty days, are required to hatch the eggs. This
makes a long period of rest for active Mrs. Turkey, yet she
must be compelled to do her work faithfully, consequently
should have easy access to an abundance of food and pure
water, that she may not be forced to remain too long a
time off the nest to procure food, thus allowing the eggs
to chill.
CARE OF THE YOUNG.— About the twenty-seventh day
I throw a hard-boiled egg, mashed very fine, close to the
nest, not into, lest it adhere to an egg, rendering the egg
air-tight exactly over the beak of the young turkey, which
would prevent his escape from the shell. The mother tur-
key may eat this egg and the one given the following day
or two, if it is not needed for her young, but in case she is
hatching, she will use it for the little ones, and this food
will often save the first-hatched birds. I have had the
mother turkey refuse to leave the nest for three days after
the first eggs hatched. If she leaves too soon, the remain-
ing eggs may be placed under hens, or hatched by wrapping
in wool and keeping warm near the fire. Should an egg be-
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 117
come broken in the nest, the soiled eggs should be carefully
washed immediately in warm, but not hot, water, and
dried and returned at once to the nest. The trying time
in the life of turkeys is the first week, when they require con-
stant watching, then great care until they are eight weeks
old, or until the quill feathers are well started. The pro-
ducing of these feathers seems to weaken the fowl, and
exhausts the system, and therefore they need especial
treatment to counteract this difficulty.
For the first week, the mother and young must have a
warm place, free from draughts of air, free from dampness,
and where they will be undisturbed by other fowls.
The first three weeks the food should consist of sweet
milk (fresh from the cow is best), very hard-boiled eggs and
fine wheat, bread crumbs for the little ones, wheat, corn
and fresh water for the mother. Feed the mother first and
she will not take much of the egg and bread, which is more
expensive. During this time, if the weather be warm and
sunshiny, let the mother out during the middle of the day,
keeping her near the coop, taking care to shut her in before
sunset, as the dew is harmful to the young turks. During
the first week the little ones are apt to get onto their backs,
from which position they cannot rise, and will die if
allowed to thus lie for any length of time. Care must
be taken not to place the pens near the hills of the
small red or black ants, as these are enemies to
young turkeys. They not only attack the head and
kill the turkey, but if eaten, will almost instantly choke
them to death.
The fourth week the food may consist of oatmeal, sour
milk curd in small quantities, cracked wheat and scraps
from the table, taking care that the scraps contain nothing
salt. Salt, salt meat, brine or salt fish will kill them.
After the eighth week, give mother and brood their free-
dom. Feed only in the morning, and this is not needful
if they have access to grain fields.
118 TURKEY CULTURE.
If a turkey becomes sick, it should be isolated at once
from the others, to prevent spread of the disease. Land
over which diseased fowls wander will be contaminated
and infect other flocks. Turkeys require plenty of pure
water and must not be allowed to drink from stagnant
pools, as this may produce bowel troubles. It is useless to
doctor a very sick turkey— better to kill and bury deep at
once. Prevention is better than cure, and if the follow-
ing dose is given fortnightly, or even monthly, throughout
the year, to either turkeys or chickens, there will be little
necessity for cholera cure : Two ounces cayenne pepper,
two ounces sulphur, two ounces alum and two ounces cop-
peras. Mix all together and add two tablespoonfuls to
eight quarts of corn meal, and wet the mixture with sweet
milk or warm water. This will feed forty fowls.
One may profitably practice giving two broods of young
turkeys to one mother when hatched at the same time, as
one turkey can hover from twenty-five to thirty little ones
during the critical period in their lives, after which they
do not need much hovering. The other mother, after be-
ing closely confined out of sight and hearing of the little
ones for one week, will quickly mate and lay again. This
is very practicable and desirable when the first broods are
hatched in May, or earlier, as the second hatchings are of-
ten the best, only a little later ready for market.
SEGOXD PRIZE ESSAY.
BY MRS. C. P. SUTTON, TKUMBULL COUNTY, OHIO.
How will I make a start I Buy a trio of turkeys, a torn
and two hens, or purchase eggs and set them under hens.
My experience favors the former, and three turkey hens
will give better results with but little more outlay and
care. The extra expense of turkeys over eggs will be am-
ply repaid before the laying season is over. Purchase the
stock from a reliable dealer. The torn and hens should
not be related or inbred, and should be thick-limbed and
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 119
compact in size. Select young hens, as they are prolific
layers and not so prone to wander. Each fancier has his
favorite breed ; mine is the Bronze, as they are so quiet
and take on flesh rapidly and attain a large size. We sold
in January toms hatched in June, which weighed eighteen
pounds dressed.
Be careful, in buying turkeys or eggs, not to buy from
yards where there has been cholera or other contagious
disease. It is much better to buy breeding stock in the
fall or early winter, as the stock to select from is larger
and prices are lower. The diet, which is of much
importance, can also be more carefully attended to as the
breeding season approaches. Corn, oats, wheat and buck-
wheat, with an occasional warm mash until Feb. 1, is good
feed. After that date but little corn should be fed, but
plenty of oats, bone meal, wheat and milk, as they are
muscle- and bone-forming foods. Provide access to pure,
clean water at all times, as well as to the dust bath, gravel,
oyster shells and lime. Lime insures hard-shelled eggs,
which is of great importance. An occasional feed of
chopped clover or cabbage leaves is much relished until
grass comes. At least once a week give Sheridan's condition
powder in their warm feed, one tablespoonful to six tur-
keys. Also give a teaspoonful of the Douglas mixture in a
gallon of drinking water twice a week. My turkeys have
access to a shed, and to roosts out of doors, but unless the
night is very cold or stormy they do not go into the shed.
When new turkeys are taken from the crates, look them
over thoroughly for lice, especially in the large hollows
between the quill feathers on top of the wings. Dust them
plentifully with insect powder.
To insure fertile eggs, mating must occur ten days before
laying. A peculiar call, we'l known to the turkey raiser,
announces that the hen is hunting a nest, and now comes
the tug of war, for nine out of ten will persist in laying just
where they should not, either in the woods, a mile away,
120 TURKEY CULTUEEo
or along a stream or swamp. When the turkeys have mated,
fix a number of nests by carrying an armful of leaves to
clumps of bushes, selecting the site with a view to setting
the hen. Never select where they will be in danger of foxes,
muskrats or other animals, and when Mrs. Hen starts to seek
a nest to deposit her first egg, keep watch of her, and make
her lay at least near where you wish her to. If she has
stolen a march on you and got a nestful of eggs, shut her up
at night and do not liberate her until the next afternoon.
When she wants to lay she will probably go straight to her
nest. When following her, do so without being seen, for a
hen turkey takes the lead for being sly and watchful. If
she outwits you, in four weeks from the time you saw her
last, if you have young turks, take one in your hand and
go near to where you saw her last, and the chirp of the
turk you have will bring an answering call from the hen.
You can keep turkeys in any field that has a fence they
cannot crawl through, by taking a piece of shingle two
inches wide and over each wing hollow out grooves. Take
a piece of strong cotton cloth an inch wide, and pass
around the wing through the large feathers in the joint
next the body and around the grooves, and tie securely,
but not too tight, thus fastening the piece of shingle across
the back and wings. We never use this except when the hen
is turned out with her young turks. Turkey eggs should
be kept in a dry, cool place, and turned every day. As
soon as the first hen wants to sit, set her and a common
hen at the same time, the turkey on eighteen or twenty
eggs and the hen on from nine to eleven. Then if they
hatch over eighteen, as they should do, place their coops
near together and they will run together all the season. If
they hatch less, give them all to the turkey. Turkey eggs
hatch best on the ground, or low down on a nest prepared
by putting in plenty of moist earth. Do not make the
nest deep and hollowing, or set the largest hens until they
lay the second time, as they are more apt to break the eggs.
PKIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 121
Dampen the eggs under common hens frequently with
tepid water. You will get little chance at those under the
turkey, as they are very close sitters and the less they are
interfered with the better. If you wish to move the tur-
key from where she has laid, take a large slat coop or dish
crate, turn it upside down, make a nest at one end, and
move the hen at evening, and by morning she will be rec-
onciled to her new quarters. After the first week let her
off every two or three days, or she can be left on the \f our
weeks by keeping fresh food and water and the dust bath
accessible.
In the wild state, the torn kills all the young turks she
can find, hence the desire of the hen for seclusion. It is
best for the same person to attend the turkeys during the
breeding season, doing everything up as quietly as possi.
ble. In about twenty-eight days the little turks will begin
to hatch. Do not disturb them the first day. The first
feed should be hard boiled egg crumbled fine, or stale bread
or crackers, ^lightly moistened with water, and squeezed
dry as possible. After the first two weeks, add rolled oats,
oatmeal and cracked wheat, all dry, and clabbered milk
scalded and drained in a colander. Add chopped onion
or, better, green tops, to the bread or clabbered milk
twice a week. Twice a week give a tablespoonful of the
condition powders to two quarts of feed. Never feed but
little of anything at a time and mix up fresh each time,
as turkeys, when young, are small, delicate eaters. We
never feed corn meal unless baked and treated like the
stale bread. When the turks get their first feed they are
removed to a large coop or pen of rails, away from other
poultry, and not close to the house or barns. The toe
used for a mark should be clipped and treated with the
carbolized grease; the top of the head -is also greased, and
under and top of the wings is dusted with insect powder.
The hen also should be again treated thoroughly for
lice, the turkey's greatest enemy. If the turkeys are dy-
122 TURKEY CULTURE.
Ing, look for lice. You can scarcely see the large gray
ones that burrow deep in the top of the head, and you
may look a six-weeks-old turkey all over and not find a
louse, when, if you will examine the deep creases on top
of the wing, you will find it swarming with big, gray pests.
The little turks need clean water, bone meal, gravel and
the dust bath. If you have no chopper, buy weekly some
stale beef, cut it up, and see how greedily the little turks
devour it. Give a few drops of Douglas mixture twice a
week in the drinking water or in sweet milk. If the turks
show signs of diarrhoea, give a few drops of spiced syrup
of rhubarb and powdered chalk with their soft food or in
milk. The coop is moved in two weeks, always to dry,
clean quarters and away from any animal pests. If the
weather is pleasant, when the turks are a month old turn
the hen out. Three times a day is often enough to feed
them now. Always be sure they are in their coop at night
and do not let them out until the dew is off, or if it is
stormy. The turkey hen will only go a short distance
when turks are young, and will stop wherever a storm
overtakes her and hover her young, while a common hen
tries to see how much ground she can cover in a day, and
runs for shelter when it rains. We have never lost a turkey
±rom gapes or roup and never a small one from cholera.
After the turks are half grown, if they have good forage.
feed twice a day, always being sure they are at home at
night and counted. If the gobbler shows a bad disposition
and kills young turks or chickens, dispose of him as soon
as practicable. We have had hens lay a second time when
turks were a month old, and the torn assumed the care of
her first flock. Feed your turks for growth until Nov. 1,
when those to be fattened should be separated from
breeding stock, and feed plenty of corn and corn meal.
The last week it is well to coop them up.
The best results in marketing turkeys are obtained by
taking an order book and going to private houses and
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 123
taking orders, noting size and sex wished, as some prefer
a henx some a torn. Do not try to sell your turkeys al\
in one week, if you have many. To kill turkeys, drive
two posts in the ground ten feet apart, and have the posts
about six feet high. On top nail a scantling. To the
scantling, or pole, tie a tarred cord with a slip noose at
lower end. Catch your turkey and slip its legs through
the noose and let it hang head downward. Catch the head
in your left hand and with a sharp knife in right hand,
open the turkey's mouth and run the knife blade down
the throat, cutting toward top of the head on both sides
of the throat. Let hang until perfectly bled. This, done
deftly and quickly, is the neatest and most humane method
of killing. You can hang three or four up at once and
they will not bruise themselves flopping about. Find out
whether your market demands the head on or not.
Whether you pick dry or scald, plump them by dipping,
after being picked, first in clear, scalding water, and then
in cold. Wipe the inside carefully with a clean cloth.
Cut as neat a vent as possible and pull the crop out through
that, never cutting over the crop. Be sure the windpipe
is removed, and for private families, who usually wish the
head removed, bring the skin up over the top of the neck
and tie neatly with white cord. The turkeys should have
no feed the night before killing. Be sure to infuse new
blood in your flock each year, either by changing toms or
hens, or get a dozen eggs to raise your own "new blood."
The secrets of turkey raising are, freedom from lice, clean,
dry feed, and dry, clean quarters, and do not try to con-
vert them to your habits, but try to conform to theirs.
THJED PRIZE ESSAY.
BY MISS B. J. PINE, BERKSHIRE COUNTY, MASS.
My experience in raising turkeys has been a very suc-
cessful one, extending over quite a number of years. I
think the time when I first became the proud possessor of
124 TURKEY CULTURE.
a turkey all my own, will never fade from my memory.
A kind neighbor gave me a young hen turkey when I was
quite a little girl, and from the time when her hired man
appeared with it under his arm I have been a turkey
raiser. Purchasing three more hens and a gobbler, I
managed to raise quite a large flock the first year.
I breed from only fine, healthy stock, saving my best
for that purpose, and do not breed from the same stock
long. I change my gobbler preferably every year and se-
lect hens from my own stock, as they are less inclined to
wander away than strangers. The hen dearly loves a se-
cluded spot for the nest, so it is well to prepare a place
where she can slyly make a nest and deposit her eggs un-
known. It is turkey nature to nest on the ground, and the
eggs hatch better if exposed to the earth's moisture. I
often place old barrels on their sides or set coops half
around, and throw branches and twigs over them, and
place hay and leaves carelessly inside for them to lay on
in winter. When they come to sit, the nest is put in shape
so there is no danger of the eggs becoming chilled. If, as
sometimes occurs, the hen does not take the nests pre-
pared, but seeks a nest in the wood near by, I follow and
gather the eggs as laid. When she sits, I put shelter over
her that can be closed up at night and opened every morn-
ing, to keep the wild "varmints" from her, and let her
sit, providing she has chosen a reasonable place for the
purpose. If moving is attempted, they are very "set, "
and will sometimes abandon a nest if moved, or so neglect
the eggs, if shut in, that they fail to hatch. Sometimes
there are one or two very early layers in the flock, too
early to really care to set them, for early turkeys are not
desirable, as the early rains and dampness are destructive.
In this case I break these hens up and let them lay again,
putting the surplus eggs under chicken hens. When
I come, to set them I prefer not to make mothers of
the latter, as their habit is so different the little ones will
PRI2E ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 125
not thrive with them after they begin to need a wider
range. The lice of hens accumulate quickly and prove
more fatal than their own and harder to get rid of, so I
put little ones hatched by hens with turkey mothers.
Sometimes the wings of little turkeys grow faster than
their bodies, and the quills stick out longer than the tail
feathers; at the same time many dwindle, get thin and
die. Unless the one in charge understands these symp-
toms, the loss may be great without the cause being sus-
pected. Catch the little ones and carefully turn back the
feathers which cover the root of the quills on the wing,
and in between the quills will usually be found lice,
which are sapping the life away. The surest remedy for
turkey lice is one part kerosene to three parts oil; any oil
which runs freely and will not get gummy on the feathers,
is good. Put it in a slender-necked machine-oil can and
let a little out along the roots of the feathers of each wing
affected. The kerosene needs the oil, as alone it blisters
the tender flesh and causes unnecessary suffering. Night is
a good time to apply, just as they are put in the coop. Be
careful not to get on too much, as that sticks the feathers
down. Go over the flock a second time to make sure of a
second crop ; a large flock can be gone over very quickly.
After the patient mother has completed her time
(from twenty-eight to thirty days), I teach her to come to
the house every day for food, and then comes the time of
caring for the little creatures, which are to be tended and
kept growing into lordly young gobblers and meek plump
hens to grace some festal board later on. I keep my eye
on a hen which I know to be hatching, but never allow
her to be disturbed to remove the little ones. If kept
quiet, she will seldom kill any and will call them out of
the nest herself.
The mother needs a refreshing dust bath often, as she
has not left the nest while hatching. She is not confined,
but the little ones are at first, while unsteady on their
126 ttTRKEY CULTURE.
legs. I make a triangle of boards nailed together, which
need not be very high nor very large, yet large enough for
the mother ^to get in with her brood when she chooses.
The little ones doze and enjoy the sun, while the hen
dusts herself and picks grass and gravel at pleasure. The
cheapest and most healthful food for little turkeys is curd
made like cottage cheese, unseasoned. They are very
fond of it and thrive upon it, with the insects of all kinds
which they get. Stale bread soaked in sweet skimmed
milk is for newly hatched poults. Milk is good for tur-
keys of all ages, but for young ones do not let it stand and
get warm and sour. It is unnecessary to make egg bread,
custard, cakes and expensive foods, they are rich, produce
diarrhoea and must be guarded against. Make the food
sweet and wholesome, as variety is not necessary, but do
not give grease or meat of any kind.
In wheat localities, whole wheat boiled to bursting
makes the best food, both for young turkeys and for fat-
tening. Don't fuss with a healthy flock, but if there is a
tendency to diarrhoea, pepper, black or red, mixed in the
food, is a good remedy. As a tonic, give a small lump of
copperas in the drinking water occasionally. Many lose
small turkeys by keeping them too closely confined. Tur-
keys must have a range, in order to become strong and
thrive. I have large coops for each mother, but unless
necessary they are not shut up after the dew is off the
grass, excepting rainy days. They run in an orchard, and
the little bodies grow broad and the legs get the stocky
look of thrifty little turkeys; when a little older they stay
very contentedly in my meadow nearly all day.
THE CARE OF THE COOPS.— A turkey hates to get into
her coop at night unless it has been moved during the
day. If it is changed every day she soon regards it as a
safe place to keep her little family over night. Should it
rain in the night, change it that it may be clean for the
day. Filth is a deadly foe to a young turkey in confine-
PRIZE ESSAYS OH TURKEY CULTURE.
ment. I have always kept my coops on the ground. An
experienced raiser who has tried floors prefers the ground,
as it is more natural and healthful. I think it is a good
plan to keep a box skunk trap set at night near the coops.
When the turkeys get large enough to fly over a stone
wall, they will wander farther away, and there is danger
from hawks and foxes. I keep track of their whereabouts
as well as I can, which takes me out doors no more than
is necessary for my good health. I have had them so wild
that they have caused me considerable trouble, but it was
caused by introducing new blood through strange hens in-
stead of the gobbler. The latter is the better way.
THE TURKEY DIET. — The curd diet is excellent while it
lasts, but much is required as they grow larger. While
they are small a little goes a great way, even feeding five
times a day. I prefer whole buckwheat to any food, when
my supply of curd runs short. It is healthful and pre-
vents diarrhoea. The finest turkeys I ever raised were fed
almost exclusively on fresh curd and buckwheat. Cracked
corn, wheat and buckwheat is good food when they have
grown large.
As soon as they show a desire to roost, I encourage
them, providing it gives promise of fair weather in which
to make the new departure. I accordingly introduce them
to the turkey tree, a large maple tree in which genera-
tions of turkeys have roosted before them, providing a
narrow board with cleats to climb upon. They are soon
up and off in the morning without waiting for breakfast,
preferring grasshoppers and crickets to anything I might
offer, returning often about 10 or 11 a. m. to rest and re-
fresh themselves with cool buttermilk, sweet skim milk or
whatever I have for them. I make it a point to offer
them something to encourage them to come home.
A turkey regards home as a place to get something to
eat. It is well always to feed when shutting them up at
night, which should be at 5 p. m. when small, as after
128 TUEKEY CULTURE.
that time they get so sleepy it is slow work. This teaches
them to expect supper, and they will soon come of their
own accord. When large, the supper need not be a very
hearty one, as they don't need it if there are plenty of
bugs, but jusfc for the principle of the thing, to get them
home, it is best to offer a reward. When feeding buck-
wheat for the first time, they rush around in a confiding
way they have, expecting the familiar food of curd. See-
ing only buckwheat, a universal cry of "quit" will be set
up all along the line, and it is only after careful examina-
tion and thoughtful observation of the fact that the moth-
ers are eating, that they can be induced to touch the stuff
of which they are afterwards always so fond. After the
flock goes to roost they are usually very little trouble un-
til marketing.
I suffer very little loss from sickness, but hawks and
foxes sometimes make sad havoc. I fatten on whole corn,
with an occasional feed of buckwheat to counteract bowel
looseness. Clear Indian meal is a harmful food at any
time for turkeys, but mixed with boiled potatoes it makes
an appetizing change and does not have the bad effect of
the clear meal.
They should be provided with gravel to assist the di-
gestive process, and have pure water within reach. Some
shut them up; I do not. Norfolk, the great English county
for fine turkeys, fattens them by filling a trough with
corn and good barley. Besides that, two meals a day of
as much barley meal as they will eat, with gravel, etc., is
given.
WELL-DRESSED FOWLS PAY BEST. — The following rules
may be observed with profit : Do not feed the fowls the
morning they are to be killed. Full crops look bad and
are liable to sour if left in. Bleeding in the neck produ-
ces finer-flavored and whiter meat than when killed in any
other way. Some markets demand scalded birds, and oth-
ers dry picked. As I dispose of my turkeys to customers,
PRIZE ESSAYS Otf TURKEY CULTURE. 129
I dry pick them, as they command a better price than
scalded ones. Pick quickly, while the bird is bleeding and
the body is yet warm, being careful not to tear the ten-
der skin ; remove all pin feathers and cut the wings off
neatly. Draw, without making a larger incision than nec-
essary, and tie the wings so they will lie snugly at the
sides when cold, leaving the head on until morning, as
the neck then presents a much better appearance. Many
things I have mentioned as necessary may seem burden-
some to the beginner, but after raising a healthy flock or
two, these little acts insuring success will be easy to
remember, especially as each flock is so like its predecessor
as to be indistinguishable from it in looks, actions and
the care required.
KENTUCKY METHODS.
ELIZABETH KNOX TARKINGTON, BOYLE COUNTY.
When the turkeys are matured, select the largest and
finest for breeding purposes. This may be done as early
as Thanksgiving, or as late as the first of January. For
instance, in the Bronze variety, select by weight, choos-
ing those of uniform bronze color, noting also the color of
the legs, which should be red. Select young toms weigh-
ing not less than twenty pounds. The torn increases
greatly in weight after the first eight months, frequently
weighing thirty-five or forty pounds when in the second
year. If the birds are poor and of light weight, a torn may
be selected by the size and length of his legs. A large foot
and long leg indicate that the bird will one day be large,
if sufficient food and range are allowed him. From five to
eight hens are sufficient for the average farm.
I would enjoin the person who undertakes to raise tur-
keys to keep them tame. This can easily be done by
feeding. The turkey is a voracious fowl, and the grown
turkey can never, apparently, get too much to eat. When
perfectly familiarized, they are not apt to wander far in
9
130 TURKEY CULTURE.
search of nests, which ought to be provided for them by
turning a barrel upon the side, setting it in some out-of-
the-way corner, and covering it with brush. The turkey
loves to think that her nest is hidden from the eye of
man. If the nest is provided with an egg, so much the
better. In this barrel the turkey should be allowed to sit
upon twenty eggs. Secure a large board in front of the
barrel, which may be taken away for a short time each
day, allowing the turkey to come off and feed. Care
should be taken that the turkey returns ; drive her to the
nest if she stays off too long. A turkey may be moved
to a barrel nest if treated after the above manner. After
a week or two I find that they are as well pleased with
their new quarters, and sit as well as if they had origi-
nally selected the spot. After eighteen years of turkey
raising, I would not be willing to trust eggs to the nest
unless I could secure the turkey upon it for the first week
or two. After this time they become quite tame, and can
be lifted off for food, which should be at hand. They will
almost always return immediately.
When the eggs begin to hatch, take the young turkeys
off and cover in a warm basket. The hen often crushes
the young at this time if they are not removed. Fifty or
sixty turkeys may be placed with two hens ; they will not
part company, and are not so apt to stray. It is natural
for the turkey to wander away when she nests or rears her
young. I pluck the long feathers from a wing of each
mother ; this renders them unable to fly over a tall fence.
Young turkeys should be fed five or six times a day. Care
should be taken to give only what the young turkeys can
pick up. The best feed is curd, made from milk. This
prevents the bowel trouble which is so fatal to young tur-
keys. No grain should be fed for the first six weeks. A
pint of milk, boiled and thickened wich three or four eggs,
is fine food for young turkeys. A little pepper may be
added to the feed from time to time. Corn meal bread
PRIZE ESSAYS (W TURKEY CULTURE. 131
soaked ia milk, sour milk and scraps from the table, are
all excellent. The old turkeys, when removed from the
nest, should be greased beneath the wings, to prevent
lice.
In raising turkeys, avoid as much as possible penning
the young turkeys. Make a slatted coop and let them run
in and out at will. When older, allow them free range of
the lawn. Insects, fresh air and exercise are necessary to
the well being of the turkey. Peed throughout the sum-
mer, and the turkeys will remain docile. When able to go
upon the roost, drive to the roosting pole, and after a few
evenings they will come of their own accord. If hogs are
fattened, the turkeys will help themselves to corn and be-
come marketable by Thanksgiving.
TURKEY RAISING IK ILLINOIS.
MBS. G. H. WATSON, JO DAVIESS COUNTY.
See the gobbler strutting,
Like a princely dude ;
See his harem meekly
Foraging for food.
I change gobblers every year. Keep Bronze turkeys,
the purer the better, as they will outweigh others, and are
as healthy as any, unless it be the wild kind, which are
not easily obtained in these days. I keep old hens, from
two to five years old, if practicable, as they are tamer, lay
larger eggs, and are better mothers and not so easily in-
jured. It is not well to keep too heavy males. Never
keep over a gobbler that is such a numskull that he will
tramp the poults into the ground and then try to eat
them. Such an one will kill more young turkeys and
chickens than his head is worth. Every farm should have
at least three (four to six is better) turkey hens and a
gobbler. Although great eaters, they are also great forag-
ers, and the annual crop of grasshoppers and other bugs
ought to be utilized. After the young are a few weeks
132 TURKEY CULTURE.
|
old, they need but little, if any, feeding, except in winter,
or maybe a few weeks before marketing.
Early in the spring, before the turkey hens begin to
lay, I put plenty of clean straw in boxes and barrels and
hidden corners in and about the henhouse and yard; also
at some distance from same under clumps of bushes, or
any place that Mrs. Turkey will be apt to judge sufficiently
secluded and cosy for her purpose, and my hens are not
apt to stray to a great distance to nest. I put the first
hatchings under common hens, as soon as I can get one to
sit, as turkey hens will lay two or three hatchings of eggs
if not allowed to sit ; but I seldom try their tempers by
taking more than one nest of eggs from each hen. When
the common hens have hatched their young turkeys and
they are ready to leave the nest, I grease with lard each
hen under the wings and inside of thigh, to kill the lice,
or they will devour the young turkeys. Then place them
in dry, warm, roomy coops, with yard in front, at a dis^
tance from the other chickens, but do not keep them shut
up an hour longer than necessary, as by running at large
they will follow the hens better in a few days and will
thrive much better, except in cold stormy weather. Tur-
keys belong to the runners, and must run or die. Bettei
not feed them at all than to keep them shut up; hundred^
of young turkeys are destroyed every year by confinement
and improper 'feed ing.
At first, I feed my young turkeys soaked bread,
squeezed as dry as possible, and hard-boiled eggs mixed
together, with a little pepper or ginger in it, and curds.
Then, as they grow older, add corn bread, corn meal,
wheat or wheat screenings, scraps of meat, boiled potatoes,
and if they are confined, cabbage, chopped onions, etc.,
are essential, and plenty of clean water, and milk if I
have it. If they are healthy and have a good "range, they
soon need but little care. If your little turkeys' wings
seem to outgrow their bodies, they are not healthy.
PRIZE ESSAYS Otf TURKEY CULTURE. 133
Look out for the cause, which is generally lice and too nar-
row range.
Do not give young turkeys to common hens that are
too heavy, if you can get a light one. The Brown and
Buff Cochins are so lazy, lousy and heavy, that a
young turkey has a poor chance of his life with one of
them, and if she once sets her big foot on him his fate is
sealed; he may live for a time, but must die in the end.
These very large hens are not only heavy, but awkward
and stupid. The Brown Leghorn is the best mother, ex-
cept, of course, the turkey hen, that I ever knew for
young turkeys. She is light and active, a great ranger,
forager, scratcher and fighter; will provide for and pro-
tect her chicks, and if she happens to put a foot on one of
them, which she is not apt to do, he is up again as lively
as ever. Any small- or medium-sized hen is a better
turkey mother than a very large one, but a large
hen that has all outdoors to turn around in will not
be so apt to crush the breath out of her turkeys as if
in coop or pen.
When the turkey hens have laid their second hatchings,
I let at least one of them have twelve or fourteen eggs,
never more than fourteen, and put fourteen to sixteen un-
der a couple of common hens. When the poults are out
I give them all to the turkey and one of the hens, greasing
the mothers under the wings and inside of thighs. To
the other hen I give hens' eggs, or shut her up. As soon
as I have enough eggs I set the first turkey that is ready ;
if I only have a few, I give them to a common hen, if
they are in danger of becoming too stale to hatch, and
let the rest of the turkeys lay and go to sitting when they
are ready.
I have raised a flock of forty-two young turkeys with a
turkey hen and a hen (two common hens for a couple of
weeks). I gave them a very large, dry coop to roost in,
with a good-sized yard in front. After they ware a few
134 TURKEY CULTUREc
weeks old I could not get a chance to feed them more than
once a day, at night, as I did not shut them close, after a
time; and soon they had no feeding, except what they for-
aged for over field and pasture. They grew like weeds, and
I lost but three out of the flock. The turkey hen takes the
hen away from the house, and the hen brings the turkey
and brood home at night ; so they are kept strong and
healthy by free ranging ; and, roosting near the house, are
not so much exposed to wild animals, while two mothers
can watch and protect the brood better than one, and they
get along splendidly. The turkey will fairly take the
heads off the rest of the hens if they come about to help
eat the feed ; but she will riot touch her nurse, the hen ;
but will circle about and chase the other hens away while
her hen and young turks do the eating. She doesn't get
time to eat much herself.
If you have a half-dozen or more turkey hens, it is
still a good plan to use a few common hens as hatchers
and mothers. Beware of lice always. No young turkey
can thrive with them, but when the turkeys and thickens
run together they will get them. Trees are the safest and
best roosting places for turkeys, young and old ; so I let
my young ones take to the trees as soon as possible. Never
try to raise young turkeys by hand, if you can avoid
it; it is a hard job. Never hatch turkey eggs in an incuba-
tor if it can be helped, unless you have hens or turkey
hens to put them under as soon as hatched.
One spring my turkeys began to lay very early, while
the snow was still on the ground ; the hens were also lay-
ing, but not one of them would even talk about sitting. I
kept eighteen turkey eggs until I teared they would spoil,
and then fired up my incubator (one of my own inven-
tion) and put the eighteen turkey eggs and some hens'
eggs in it. Although the turkey eggs had been laid while
the weather was so cold and kept so long, the whole
eighteen, when the time was up, had live poults chipping
PRIZE ESSAYS OK TURKEY CULTURE. 135
away, but three died in the shell and I only had fifteen
live ones left ; but they were about the largest, liveliest
little turks that I ever saw. It was so cold that I had to
put them in a large box by the kitchen stove, together with
about sixty chicks hatched with them. Well, you would bet-
ter believe there was a peeping and squeaking in that
kitchen in a couple of weeks, when all the young things
wanted to get out and run. At last, the weather moderating,
I put them in the woodshed ; the young turkeys all took cold
and had sore throats. I treated them with sulphur and
saved the most of them, but they were puny for a long
time. If I had kept them warm till warm weather they
would have done better; but when warm weather came,
they hung about the door and I could not get rid of them.
They seemed to think they must be where I was, as I was
the only mother they knew. A cat got some, some died,
and I only raised nine of them. I kept four of them for
years, for mothers, and they were the best I ever knew,
but it is a hard way (by hand) to raise turkeys, and I pre-
fer almost any other.
If a turkey hen makes her nest by a field or pasture
fence, away from the house, or in any exposed place
where hogs or crows can reach it, make a low fence to
keep out the hogs, and cover the nest with brush or boards
to hide the eggs from the crows; but don't change the ap-
pearance of things so much as to scare away the turkey ; but
if she is an old hen used to being handled, she will not be
easily disturbed. When my turkey hens go to sitting in
an undesirable locality, I make a large, close, roomy nest
with a small covered yard in front of it, and at night con-
vey to it eggs and hen. I then shut her up close and keep
her there for a couple of days and nights, then let her
into the covered yard, where I feed and water her, then
drive her back onto the nest if necessary (which is not
often the case), and shut her in again. She will soon come
out and eat and then go back on the eggs, and before tfce
136 TUKKEY CULTURE.
time is up you can leave open both nest and yard and let
her go and come as she likes.
Crows are a great pest. They will steal the eggs, and
are worse to catch the young turkeys than hawks, even,
as there is seldom less than two, and often more, together,
and while the old turkey is chasing one, another will pick
up a young one and skip. She has to be lively and alert
if she saves four or five out of a dozen, if they once begin
on a brood, unless she changes her range, which she often
does. Turkey raising is like all other employments. If
you feel an interest in your work and attend strictly to
business, you will soon have plenty of experience, and will
succeed ; but if you let the business take care of itself, you
will fail.
THE NEW JERSEY SYSTEM.
MKS. S. WILLIAMS, UNION COUNTY.
Why have we such difficulty in raising birds naturally so
hardy? Simply because in the domestic state they have
deteriorated. The laws of natural selection and survival
of the fittest, have been overlooked. In the wild state
the weak, delicate turkeys die young ; only the healthy
live. When grown, the stronger turkeys kill and drive
away the weaker, so that only strong, vigorous birds
breed. Here lies the secret of success ! Follow nature.
Do not sell your finest turkeys at Thanksgiving. Pick
out your best hens, and as we must be even more precise
than we have reason for believing nature to be, we should
select hens two, or even three, years old ; but the gobbler
should not be more than one year old. He should be
broad and heavy, and have thick, strong legs. From three
to five hens may be allowed to one gobbler. Bo not feed
too fattening food in winter. Wheat, oats, milk and the
privilege of picking young rye or wheat in the field, will
put your stock in good form for the season. As to breed,
I always liked the Narragansetts, as being a hardier breed
than others.
PRIZE ESSAYS Otf TURKEY CULTURE.
Faults in the parentage show their result in the young
in two or three weeks, or as soon as the wing feathers begin
to grow nicely. The chicks do not seem bright as usual.
Their wings droop, their steps are uncertain and tottering,
and they stand sleeping in the sun much of the time.
They grow very weak and die in two or three days,
though, strictly speaking, they have been dying since
their birth. There was not life enough in them to carry
them through the feathering-out stage. No medicine on
earth could have saved them, nor any care availed.
But suppose you have satisfactory parent birds, and
have followed the rules for their keeping given above.
Well, then, late in February, roll some barrels or boxes
into out-of-the-way places, or stand a few sticks and
boards tent fashion, among some shrubbery. A hen tur-
key likes to tread an intricate path to her nest, so it is
well to pile up brush carelessly about these desirable nest-
ing places. You should then throw a few leaves in each
nest, or some old weedy hay, and you may put an egg in
the nest or not, and then do not visit the place when the
turkeys are in sight. Most hens begin to lay in March, al-
though some lay in February, or perhaps not until April.
If the egg is removed, the hen usually lays from eighteen
to twenty-five eggs before hatching. If the eggs are un-
molested, she will only lay as many as she can cover,
which is about fifteen. If more are given, she will destroy
them. Therefore it is best to set the extra eggs under
fowl hens, and add them to the turkey's brood when both
are hatched. A fowl hen makes an undesirable mother,
as she frequents cowyards and the poultry runs, wher*
young turkeys do not flourish. She also leaves th^m a*
coo early an age.
When the turkey oegins to hatch, go every morning,
and throw her some corn or wheat, and see that she has
water. She will thus become accustomed to you, and not
exhaust your patience later, by hiding herself and brood
138 TURKEY CULTURE.
from your gaze. When she has set twenty-eight days, the
young turkeys are mostly out, but don't be impatient!
About twenty-four hours after the first one is hatched, the
hen will leave the nest. She does this early in the morn-
ing. You may throw in her accustomed food, but the lit-
tle ones will eat nothing, in all probability. In the after-
noon go again, with a boiled egg chopped fine, which the
little turkeys will pick at in a lazy, wondering way. Af-
ter this go twice each day, and always be sure to feed the
mother with plenty of grain, as then she will not eat so
much of the food you have been at so much trouble to
prepare for the young, and having a full crop, she will not
wander so far. Keep her from undesirable localities, but
otherwise do not restrain her. After a few meals of boiled
eggs, bread crumbs and curd, prepare a daily bill of fare,
by baking a bread, made of one part corn meal, one part
oat meal, two parts wheat shorts or middlings. Add a lit-
tle salt and a little bone meal. Feed this dry in crumbs,
except the crust, which should be soaked in milk. This
dough must be mixed with either sweet or sour milk.
Curd, or pot cheese, is always in order, and it should be
seen to that the hen has, or can get, access to water.
Lice never trouble poultry that has a wide range.
Roup is very dangerous to young turkeys. It usually comes
in wet weather, and as prevention is better than cure, it
is a good plan to drive the brood up on high ground over
night, and give plenty of food, with a little pepper. If
you could drive them under a shed or other shelter, it
would be best, but this is not always possible. The only
way, in such cases, is to feed so as to keep from wander-
ing. If any chicks show signs of roup, separate from the
flock, and put in a warm, dry place, and treat as you
would a fowl chick with the roup. 'Diarrhoea is another
fatal disease, and although a turkey hatched under proper
conditions will usually escape both of these diseases, yet it
is better to be on guard. Green corn usually causes the
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 139
cholera or diarrhoea. Do not allow your turkeys to have
it. If one falls sick with diarrhoea symptoms, separate
from the rest and give one teaspoonful of kerosene oil.
Repeat the next day, if necessary. Give raw egg if the
turkey refuses to eat, and give sweet boiled milk with a
little flour and whiskey or brandy added, to drink. Tur-
keys must be kept dry when iminurtT diarrhoea appears. In
giving pepper, always give cayenne or red pepper. It
aids digestion, while black or white pepper retards it.
Too many give medicine, when none is required. It
should not take the place of food, or be given with it
when the bird is well. Late in summer the turkey hen
hatches the second brood. On this occasion she does not
need near so much care, as the weather is favorable, and
also there is plenty of natural food to be had for the pick-
ing. However, keep your eye on her and be ready for
emergencies. You will save yourself trouble by feeding
twice a day as before.
TURKEY CULTURE IN NEW BRUNSWICK.
BY W. P. POOLE, CHARLOTTE COUNTY.
The old saying that "Like begets like," holds true in
the breeding of turkeys. If your hens are small, ill-
formed, and poorly bred, and your gobbler like the one
Job was said to have owned, "So poor that he had but
one feather in his tail, and had to lean against the fence
to gobble," if you expect to raise good, large, marketable
birds from such stock, you are going to be sadly disap-
pointed. As well expect to raise a Brahma from the egg
of a bantam, or a Toulouse goose from a duck egg. My
experience has been that in order to raise first-class, mar-
ketable birds of from ten to fifteen pounds dressed weight,
I must have breeding birds of the very best stock I can
obtain.
In selecting my hens, I aim to get heavily built, broad-
shouldered, bright-eyed, healthy-looking females, with
140 TURKEY CULTURE.
firm legs, that stand well apart, and the general charaOi
teristics of a strong bird. Mate them with a pure-bred
"Bronze gobbler," a fine, large, well-formed, warlike-
looking bird, with life and strength enough in him to
make the rest of the occupants of the barnyard quake with
fear whenever his lordly strut is heard. Having thus se-
lected your breeding birds, you have made a good, fair
start toward success.
The sooner you can start your hens laying in the spring,
the larger will be your young birds in the fall. In order
to do this, give your hens, for their morning feed, hot
mashed potatoes, mixed with corn meal and middlings,
about two parts middlings to one of corn meal ; stir in
some pepper and meat scraps and a little salt. Just a
word of caution here : Don't overdo the thing and get
your birds too fat. Three quarts of this mixture will be
enough for ten birds. In the afternoon, give a feed of
grain, either barley, wheat, or buckwheat, or a mixture
of the three. Provide plenty of broken oyster or clam
shells, and good, clean water. It will not be long after
the first of April that some morning one, and then an-
other, of your turkeys, will steal away to some secluded
place, and there lay her egg. It is best to let her have
her own way in the selection of the nest, but keep your
eye on her and take the egg from the nest after the tur-
key leaves it, leaving a china or hen's egg in its place for
a nest egg. Turn your eggs once every day until you have
enough for a setting, which is from nine to eleven, for a
hen, and from twelve to fifteen for a turkey.
I always set my early ones under hens, as you can
keep the young birds confined better when the weather is
cold and wet. If you intend using a hen, select a good,
quiet bird, one that will attend faithfully to business ; let
her set a few days, until she gets settled down to work,
before giving her the eggs. See that she is free from lice,
and that the nest is dry and warm and also free from ver-
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 141
min. Watch the hen and eggs closely during the period of
incubation, and see that the hen has plenty of food and
water within reach, so that she will not stay off the eggs
too long. It is a good plan to take the hen off the nest
every morning, and she will then usually go back to the
nest immediately after eating. In about four weeks, the
young turkeys will begin to break the shells, eager to enter
upon life. Do not disturb them at this time, except to
take the shells out of the nest, and do that as quietly as
possible.
Let the little fellows stay in the nest undisturbed for
at least thirty hours after hatching, then place them in a
nice, dry, roomy coop in a sunny location. Place before
them some fine chopped, hard-boiled egg, or a little bread
soaked in milk, or both, and a shallow dish of pure water.
Melt a tablespoonful of butter, add to this a few drops of
kerosene ; mix well, then dip your finger in the mixture
and touch the young turkey on top of the head and under
each wing. This will keep away lice, and that means a
good deal, if you want your birds to thrive. After the
young turkeys get so they can eat nicely, make some curd
for them from sour milk. This is made by putting the
sour milk on the stove in a tin dish; when hot, the curd
will separate from the whey ; pour the whey off, and when
the curd is sufficiently cool, crumble it up and feed to the
turkeys every two hours. Mix a little soaked bread with
it (either brown or white will do), and put a little pepper
in it, about twice a day. When about a week old, mix
some corn meal (bolted) with sour milk or buttermilk, to a
stiff batter, put in a little salt and enough soda to make it
light. Bake in the oven until done. Then, when you
want to feed your turkeys, soak a little of the bread until
it is quite soft, then mix it with equal parts of the curd,
and it will do you good to see the little fellows stuff
themselves. Keep plenty of milk, sweet or sour, and good
fresh water before them constantly. Gather a lot of fresh
TURKEY CULTURE.
chickweed, or if you cannot get that, tender bunches of
clover will answer; cut it up fine and mix it in their milk.
When the days are warm and fine, let them out for a run
in the fields for grasshoppers, which they are greedily
fond of, but be sure the dew is all off the grass before you
turn them out, as a wetting is generally fatal to the ten-
der birds.
At six weeks of age, when they begin to show the red
on the head and neck, "shooting the red/' as it is called,
feed them a little cracked wheat. At this time, and for
some weeks, in connection with their bread food, mix a
little bone meal with their bread, and you will find that
it will afford much assistance to the young birds and pre-
vent leg weakness. As the birds get older, you can vary
their food, giving some whole grain when three months
old, and a variety of any good food; above all, give them
free range at this age, but still avoid getting them wet, as
much as possible, as it prevents growth.
You have clear sailing from this time until you feed
them for the market, at Thanksgiving or Christmas. I do
not confine my turkeys when I fatten them. I find they
do better when at liberty, for they will be more contented
than when imprisoned, and when well fed will not roam
about any to speak of, and take on fat much faster than
when shut up. Feed them all they can eat at this time,
— a mash of corn meal and potatoes, or clear corn meal
mixed with milk is good, and plenty of grain, barley,
wheat, or peas, or all together. I prefer the mixture.
To prove the value of the course of treatment pre-
scribed in this essay, I will just give a little of my expe-
rience with a small flock of turkeys. I set eleven turkey
eggs under a common hen. They were from good stock,
but not pure bred. The eggs all hatched, and from the
very start they grew very fast, and not a ^bit of disease or
lameness ever troubled those eleven turkeys; th ay were
the most even-sized lot I ever saw, and were the admira-
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 143
tion of all who saw them. At Christmas time, when they
were taken to the block, they were just about as much as
I could carry; they dressed from eleven to fifteen and
one-half pounds each, and were as fat as butter. I sold five
of them for $11.50. "Go thou and do likewise."
THE FAMOUS KHODE ISLAND SYSTEM.
Of late years Prudence Island has been one of the
leading turkey-producing sections. Over 800 turkeys were
raised there in 1892. George Tucker raises the largest
number, and probably produces more turkeys than any
one in Khode Island. In 1888 he raised 225 turkeys from
22 hens ; in 1889, 306 from 28 hens ; in 1890, 340 from 30
hens; in 1891, 322 from 36 hens; in 1892, 425 from 35 hens,
and this season, at this date, he has over 300 young tur-
keys on the way to maturity. Previous to 1888 he had
only average success, but since that time, owing to an
improvement in his management, he has had but very lit-
tle loss. He credits his present success to having gained
a clearer understanding of the requirements of turkeys, as
well as to having procured from Connecticut a very fine
gobbler, by means of which he increased the hardiness of
his flock. He has since been more careful in selecting
new blood.
He found that young turkeys tnat were kept near the
house or under the trees in the orchard, did not thrive ;
many had swelled heads and soon died. On the other
hand, those placed on the highest and dryest pastures,
where there were no trees and but a light growth of grass,
did the best of all. He usually winters from twenty to
thirty-five hen turkeys and two gobblers. One gobbler is
sufficient, but the second is kept in case one should die or
fail in any way. The gobblers weigh from thirty to
thirty-five pounds and usually are kept two seasons, and
the hens two or three seasons, old hens being the surest
breeders. They roost out in the trees the year through,
144 TURKEY CULTURE.
and but few are lost. In the spring a sufficient number of
nests are made for the hens by placing barrels by the
walls and fences near the house and barns, or by laying
wide boards against the walls. In them is placed leaves
or cut straw. The turkeys readily take possession of these
nests, although some persist in seeking out one of their
own. This is usually allowed unless a swampy location,
or one too far away, is chosen, when the nest is broken
up and the hen induced to choose another.
Sometimes several lay in the same nest. To prevent
this, a nest in which a turkey has commenced to lay is,
after she has deposited her egg, shut up for the remainder
of the day, to keep out intruders. When the crows eat eggs
laid in the nests that are far from the house, they are
frightened away by strings stretched across near the nest.
Glass nest eggs are used. Eggs are gathered daily, to pre-
vent their being chilled, and that rats may not get them.
They are kept in pans, having a few oats in the bottom to
prevent their rolling about. Each panful holds two sit-
tings, and is dated, that their age may be known. When
a hen stays on the nest for two nights, seventeen of the
oldest eggs are given her; the eggs laid by her during the
two days are not left in the nest. The nests are first
shaped, so that they will not be so flat as to allow the
eggs to roll out, or so deep as to cause them to be piled
one upon another. The turkeys seem to do better if not
fed while sitting. Those occupying nests near together are
looked after daily, to see that they return to their own
nests.
Mr. Tucker at first experienced some trouble in hav-
ing turkeys come off with a few young, those late in
hatching being left to their fate. This was partly over-
come by setting eggs of the same age. By feeding hens
with dough when the eggs are due to hatch, they are also
contented to stay on the nest longer. When the turkeys
are a couple of days old and seem quite strong, they are
PRI2E ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 145
placed in a basket, and with the hen, removed to a remote
part of the farm. Triangular pens, made of three boards,
twelve feet long and one foot high, are placed in the fields,
where it is intended the flocks shall stay until nearly
grown. They are not located near together, lest the differ-
ent flocks attract each other's attention. But four or five
of the pens are put in a twenty-acre field. The little tur-
keys or poults are put in one of these pens with som,e
dough, and the hen is gently placed beside them. In re-
leasing the hen, Mr. Tucker takes pains to step quickly
back toward the wind, that, if frightened, she may go in
a direction in which the cries of her young may be heard
and bring her to them. The pens are removed to fresh
ground frequently. Care is taken that the pens are placed
on ground free from hollows that may hold water, for
some turkeys, when hovering their brood in such places,
will remain in them while they fill with rain and the
brood is drowned. After five or six days, when the young
are strong enough to follow the hen without being worn
out, and have become so familiar with the attendant that
they will come when called, they are let out of the pen#
and allowed free range.
In feeding and looking after this number of turkeys,
the attendant, usually one of Mr. Tucker's daughters, has
to walk about three miles to go the rounds. Until four
weeks old their food consists of corn meal mixed with
sour milk, and they are given sour milk to drink, no water
being given them. When four weeks old, cracked corn is
mixed with the meal, and the quantity is gradually in-
creased, until at eight or ten weeks old their feed consists
of cracked corn moistened with sour milk. Until June 1st
they are fed three times each day. From June 1st to
July 15th they are fed twice a day. After this Mr. Tucker
used to give them no feed until they commenced to come
to the house, in the latter part of September, when a lit-
tle whole corn was given them daily, but of late years, he
10
146 TURKEY CULTURE.
has thought they did not get enough without it and has
continued the feed the whole season.
In November they are given all the corn they will eat.
They like northern white flint corn the best, fatten most
rapidly on it, and the quality of the flesh is also finer
when it is given. If fed new corn, they have bowel trou-
ble. Mr. Tucker usually gives old and new corn mixed, for
fattening. When the young turkeys get to be the size of
quails, two hens and their flocks usually join forces and
roam together until fall. In the fall the sexes separate,
the gobblers going together in one flock and the hens in
another. About Thanksgiving, the litters hatched in the
latter half of May weigh, gobblers eighteen to twenty
pounds, and hens ten to eleven pounds each. Mr. Tucker
does not care to raise second litters. When he has them,
it is because the hens have stolen their nests. He has
considerable loss among late turkeys, and if such birds are
kept over winter they get sick more readily, and as disease
spreads very quickly among turkeys, he looks upon them
as disease breeders.
The turkeys of the early litters that are lost generally
die during the first week, or in August, when two or three
months old. There are no foxes, weasels or skunks on the
island. Mr. Tucker prefers birds with short legs, as they
have the plumpest bodies. His turkeys are a mixture.
Many are of a light gray color, similar to Narragansett tur-
keys. There are also buff, brown and dark ones. He pre-
fers the brown and gray to the black, as they look better
when dressed. He finds medium weights sell best except
at Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year.
THE WISCONSIN IDEA.
MARY C. BARRETT, LAFAYETTE COUNTY.
Four years ago I commenced turkey raising in connec-
tion with my other poultry. I started with all the advice
I could obtain from those who had had experience in that
P&I2E ESSAYS OK SURREY CULTURE. 147
line. But I soon found there was nothing like actual ex-
perience of your own. After disposing of my surplus stock
during the holidays, I accustom my turkey hens to the
poultry house as much as possible, and try to make them
roost there*. After they commence laying, I usually have
some trouble in finding their nest, but by confining them
in the henhouse till about noon and then giving them
their liberty, by following them, you can easily find their
nest. I take all the turkey eggs from the nest, leaving a
hen's egg or china nest egg. Gather the eggs every day.
Never frighten your turkeys, but endeavor to have them as
tame as possible, so you can handle them on the nests. If
I wish them to lay a second laying, I set the first eggs un-
der common hens, eight eggs to a hen.
After she has made up her mind to set, confine the tur-
key about three days, and she will soon start to laying her
second clutch. If, when I am ready to set her, I do not
consider her nest in a suitable place, I wait two or three
days after she commences to stay on the nest at night.
Then I fix a nest in some place where I can keep her shut
up during the period of incubation ; some old building,
where she will have plenty of room to move around in.
Keep feed and fresh water near her, so she can have it
when she comes off her nest to eat. Place seventeen eggs
in the nest, remove the hen from her nest, place her in
the building, and she will finally settle down to business
in the new place without much trouble. Never allow her
any eggs in her own nest after she wants to set; if you do,
she will not take kindly to the one you have provided for
her. (If she has laid more than seventeen eggs, set the
balance under a common hen, and give the young turks to
the turkey hen when hatched. )
After confining tne turkey hen, never allow her her
liberty till she has hatched her eggs. If, on the other
hand, she has a good nest of her own, I allow her to re-
main there, taking note of the time I set her, so I will
148 TURKEY CULTURE.
know when to look for little turkeys, which will be twenty-
eight days from the time you set her.
After the turkeys are all hatched, I take the mothei
and place her in a large, dry coop with floor, that has
been previously provided. Take the little turkeys and
dust each one with Persian insect powder; rub on the top
of head, under the wings, and sprinkle on their backs.
Take an old pan or basket, put paper in the bottom, put
little turkeys in, and cover them over with old cloth or
sack ; let remain a half-hour and then give them to the tur-
key hen. You will find the dead lice in the bottom of
pan. By treating them this way, the insect powder has
more effect than letting the little turks run immediately
after using it. Rub the mother with it, also, and use it oc-
casionally during the first two months of the turkey's life.
The powder can be obtained from any reliable seed mer-
chant for twenty-five cents, postpaid.
The little turkeys will commence to eat in twenty,
four hours after hatching. I feed mine on hard-boiled
eggs chopped fine, or bread soaked in sweet skimmed
milk, for a week or ten days, then I give them corn meal
and curds. Scald sour milk, pour off the whey, and the
curds will be wet enough to moisten the meal sufficiently ;
add a little ground black pepper. I feed the little ones
five times a day, and the mother twice, giving her corn
and oats, and keep plenty of fresh water for them to
drink, also sweet skim milk if I have it. I keep the
hen confined in the coop for two months, but allow the
little turks their liberty at all times. After they are two
months old, I allow the mother her liberty, and then I
have no more trouble with them, only to feed them with
the other poultry. I kno^w that keeping the turkey hens
shut up so long is contrary to all directions, but I do so
nevertheless. The coop must be kept clean, and must be
large. I use large dry-goods boxes ; they cost about fifty
cents apiece, and will last for years.
PRIZE ESSAYS ON TURKEY CULTURE. 149
If you have boys that are handy, have them make you
a runway for the hen, with lath, although I have never
had mine fixed that way. I move the coop where the hen
can reach the grass, sometimes pull it and feed it to her,
and also furnish her with sand and gravel. Where you let
the little turkeys run with the common hens, you can al-
low the hens their liberty on fine days, after they become
accustomed to the coop, for they will return to the coop at
night, but I have never been able to make the turkey hens
do so. If they once get free, they will sneak away and
stay till the turkeys are quite old, and generally lose most
of them. I had one turkey hen, shut in a box as de-
scribed, and she raised twenty-one nice turkeys, and that
was in 1892, when it rained so much.
THE PENNSYLVANIA SYSTEM.
MRS. A. CLARKE, CRAWFORD COUNTY.
Having been in the turkey business for a long time, I
find that the best results are secured by careful attention
to the following points : First — I take care that the par-
ent birds are not related, never keeping over male and fe-
males from the same flock.
Second — Experiments have proven that eggs laid by
turkeys two or three years old produce stronger and larger
turkeys than those of the yearlings.
Third — Instead of allowing the turkeys to steal their
nests, and hatch their broods where and when they like,
I prepare large nests in convenient out-of-the-way places,
and I find that the turkeys usually take kindly to them,
and seem to appreciate the favor. However, if one shows
a disposition to pick out a place for herself, I manage, if
possible, to give her an outfit, in the shape of an old box,
with a freshly cut sod and a little straw in the bottom,
and a few boards for shelter, and allow her to remain.
Then, taking charge of the fresh-laid eggs, I keep them
carefully, until I have enough to set two turkeys and two
150 TURKEY CULTURE.
hens at the same time, or as near that as possible. In or.
der to do this, I do not allow the turkeys to set until
after the second laying. I then give all the young turkeys
that are hatched to the two old mother turkeys ; they, each
having a large brood, and being so near of an age, can run
together without injury. I have invariably found that
where there are several broods of different ages, the oldei
ones will trample and pick the smaller ones to death be-
fore they are half grown.
When the little turkeys begin to eat, I feed them
hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, for the first week, then I
begin feeding wheat bread, crumbled, and mixed with the
eggs, and it is very amusing to see them pick eagerly
around for the bits of egg, leaving the bread crumbs until
they are obliged to eat them. They greatly prefer a diet
of egg alone, but soon grow accustomed to the change.
When they are about four weeks old, 1 begin mixing
whole wheat with the bread, and continue this, using less
bread, until they will eat the clear wheat. This, I think,
makes the best food for growing turkeys.
Besides this, as soon as they are a couple of weeks old,
I give them broken earthen ware, pounded up into small
bits. To those who may think this a queer article of diet,
I will say that I learned its value by accident. Some
broken dishes were thrown into the turkey yard, and I
found the turkeys trying to swallow them. Every bit that
was small enough to go down their throats (and it is as-
tonishing how great their capacity is in that direction),
soon disappeared, and they clamored for more. I supplied
them freely with ground oyster shells, thinking that would
be much better. But no, the fastidious creatures turned
from them in disgust, and I went to pounding up all the
broken dishes I could find. I never saw fowls so eager for
anything as they are for those sharp, white fragments.
Nowadays if a dish is broken by accident, scarcely a sigh
is heard, as some one exclaims, "Oh, save that for the tur-
PRIZE ESSAYS OK TURKEY CULTURE. 151
keys." Strange as it may seem, no signs of the liver trou-
ble which so frequently affects growing turkeys and so of-
ten proves fatal, has appeared among the flocks that have
been treated to a generous supply of pounded crockery.
Does any one ask how often this should be fed? I usually
give it to them twice a day ; after feeding them the morn-
ing and evening rations of bread and wheat, I take a few
pieces of earthen ware, and placing them on a large stone
near the feeding place, I break them into small bits. As
they fly off into the grass, it is funny to see the little tur-
keys scramble after them, squeaking with delight. At first
I feared that the large pieces which they greedily swal-
lowed would kill them, but soon found that it only made
them healthy and lively.
In addition to this, I keep the young turkeys from
roaming through the dewy grass, by confining them in a
board pen till they are at least two weeks old ; then when
larger I furnish a plentiful supply of wood ashes for dust
baths, which keeps them free from lice. By following the
above methods, I have had the best success in turkey cul-
ture, and consider it a paying enterprise. One thing you
will notice that I have carefully avoided, viz. : The feeding
of wet, raw foods, such as corn meal or chop mixed up
with milk or water, as it does not digest easily, although,
for a change, I occasionally give them fresh milk curds,
with a little black pepper; and always supply them with
clean drinking water.
HOW THE FAMOUS WESTERN NEW YORK TUR-
KEYS ARE GROWN.
BY SARAH FRIES, ONTARIO COUNTY.
[Our contributor is 73 years old, and has been a successful turkey raiser for
fifty years.}
I keep two gobblers and five hens, which are saved
the previous season. As soon as I can gather eight or
nine eggs, I place them under a sitting hen. Every morn-
ing I visit every hen and allow her to eat all the corn she
152 TURKEY CULTURE.
will from my hand. When the little ones are a few hours
old I place them, with their mother, in a slatted coop at
once, giving them water in a shallow vessel filled with
small stones, so the little ones could only dip their bills
in. This I place outside the coop, in reach of the mother.
I then feed them with carefully curdled milk, and a little
wheat bran mixed in. When two or three days old I
grease their heads and necks, to destroy lice, for there is
always lice on them after being hatched by a hen. As
age increases, I increase the quantity of bran in the feed.
Boiled potatoes mashed with good oats, and wheat bran
thinned to a mush, may be fed several times daily, scat-
tered on the clean grass. Drive them into a loft at night,
when a few weeks old, and they will learn to roost there
and be safe. My first brood of two hundred fine turkeys
were raised many years ago, and sold for eighteen cents
dressed. They averaged two dollars each, bringing me
the snug sum of four hundred dollars.
ONTARIO METHODS IN TURKEY RAISING.
MRS. JOHNSON A. GREEN, LEEDS COUNTY.
I have raised turkeys for the last twenty years, with
good success, having flocks of from forty to eighty birds
each year. The first requisite is good birds. I prefer
Bronze. I select the best young hens from my flock, and
if I have any old ones that have proved good mothers, keep
them. I keep five or six hens and a gobbler. I look
around in the fall, and get a good one from improved
breed if possible, never keeping one from the same flock
as the hens. I keep them in a house by themselves dur-
ing winter, feeding liberally with mixed grain, and give
pure water to drink, warming it in the coldest weather.
They do not require as warm a house as hens, but want
light, and prefer a high roost. I let them out for a run
every day, except in stormy weather. I think keeping
them tame during winter, never allowing them to be
PRIZE ESSAYS OK TURKEY CULTURE. 153
frightened by children or dogs, saves trouble when laying
time comes, which, with mine, is about the first of April.
I then give them free access to the barns, leaving nest
eggs where I wish them to lay, and I seldom have them
Jay outside the buildings or roaming the field in search of
a brush pile to hide their nest. They generally lay from
eighteen to twenty eggs. Should two or more choose to
lay in the same nest, before they begin to set, I make a
new nest a few feet to one side, and put a nest egg in it.
One turkey will soon find it and leave the other in peace.
When ready to set, put sixteen to eighteen eggs under
each, protect from draughts, and if weather is cold, feed
on the nest ; if warm, they will come off for feed as often
as necessary.
When hatching, do not be in a hurry to take them out
of the nest, but leave them at least twenty-four hours.
Then if it is a warm, sunny day, put them out. If the
old one is inclined to ramble too far, put her in a coop
with slat front, allowing the little ones to run in and out.
Feed the first two or three days on hard-boiled eggs and
bread soaked in sweet milk, squeezing it quite dry (I
never feed anything soft or sloppy). When weather is
damp or cold I add a little black pepper, and onion tops
are always relished by them. When three or four days old
I drop the eggs and feed, instead, with the soaked bread,
curd made of buttermilk with a little sweet milk added.
Let it come to the boil, dip out the curd while scalding
hot, and mix with a little shorts. This added to soaked
bread makes a splendid ration for young turkeys. As
they get older I drop the bread and feed curd and shorts
alone, and when about four or five weeks old they require
quite a lot of shorts. I use some of the whey as well as
the curd, always pouring it on the shorts scalding hot. I
never feed anything else, nor do I ever give that without
being thoroughly scalded. Feed five or six times a day
for the first few days, then four times ; when three weeks
154 TURKEY CULTURE.
old, three times is sufficient, and twice a day at four
weeks; give all they will eat morning and evening. Keep
pure water in a shallow dish convenient.
I never have sick turkeys and seldom lose one except
from accident. I shut them up at night for safety, and do
not let them out until the dew is off, or nearly so. If a
cold, damp morning, I feed them in the stable. If a sud-
den shower comes up, put in the turkeys; they cannot
stand wet for the first six or eight weeks. When they
have attained that age they are very hardy, able to get
their own living, provided they have the run of the farm,
as mine have, and will do better roosting out of doors.
When preparing for market do not shut up to fatten, but
teed well on corn and buckwheat and let them run out.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Frontispiece— The American Wild turkey . • . .
Fig 1— Trap for Wild turkeys 11
2— "Calling" Wild turkeys 13
3— The Prize Bronze turkey 20
4— "Pure Blooded" Black turkeys .... 23
5— Pure-bred White Holland turkeys .... 27
6— Buff turkey cock 29
7 — Narragansett turkeys 32
8— Pair ot domesticated Brush turkeys .... 35
9— Wild blood turkeys 37
10— Pure wild gobbler bred in confinement ... 39
11 — Part wild blood Bronze turkey 41
12— White Holland turkeys 44
13— Mr Bloodgood's flock of White Holland turkeys . 47
14— Missouri prize-winning Bronze .... 49
15— Pen to confine little turkeys until old enough to
lump over; mother at liberty .... 65
16 — Rnode Island turkey shingle 67
17 — Western style of turkey shingle .... 67
18 — Coop for brooding turkey, while the chicks are at
liberty 69
19_Shed for sheltering little turkeys at night . . 70
20— Shed for sheltering little turkeys at night . . 70
21— From a photograph of Browning & ChappelFs
flock, Khode Island 74
22— Turkeys packed for market 77
23— Open crate for shipping dressed turkeys in cool
weather ......... 80
24— Suggestions for marking turkeys by their feet . 88
25— No more trouble from straying turkeys ... 94
26— The gapeworm 99
27— Windpipe of a fowl 100
28— Caeca 102
29— Diseased caeca 103
30— One side or wing of the caecum cut open, showing
its diseased state 104
31— One caecum from Fig. 29, slit open to show thick-
ened mucous membrane 105
32— The other caecum from Fig. 29, cut crosswise to
show thickening 101
33— Spotted liver, due to "blackhead" .... 100
34— Natural size of spots on liver 196
35— -Tapeworm from a turkey Ill
15?
INDEX.
Afflicted chickens
After killing
Air-slaked lime
Appendage, fleshy
Assorting, in packing
Attentive mothers
Babcock, by
Barber, by
Barns, free access to
Barrel nest
Barrett, Mary C., by
Battles of males
Beak of Bronze
Beginners
Best breed
Billy, the
Black, the
Black Norfolk
Black varieties
Blackhead, contagious
"Bleed Out," half
Bleeding, by
Blue
Body, choice feathers
Bone mill or cutter
Boston market, for
Boston at Thanksgiving
Bowel trouble
Breakfast for
Breeds, classification of
Breeders, for
Breeding stock, care of
Broilers, for fancy profits
Bronze, the
Bronze crosses
Brush, the
Buckwheat, whole
Buff, the
Buying
0
Call of
Cankers
Care of coop
126
102
76
Care of young
Catching in the fall
116
74
101
Charcoal, pounded, for
73
71
Chicago market for
76
77
Chill
69
61
Choice body feathers
82
Cholera, cure
*&
Christmas, selling after
81
22
Clarke, Mrs. A., by
149
18
Classification of breeds
15
153
Color
18
130
Coloring of Narragansett
33
146
Common turkeys
36
11
Confine, do not
142
16
74
Confining the little at night
Cooked food
70
68
36
Coop, care of
126
71
Coop, roomy
66
22
Corn, green
138
22
Corn bread
70
30
Correspondent, by a
26
105
Cortez
1
76
Crosses
39
76
Crows, danger from
136
31
Curd diet
127
82
68
77
80
D
Day, second of hatching
Delicate colors
65
29
45
Derivation of name
3
52
Diseases
90
15
Diarrhoea
96
50
Diet, the
127
51
Domesticated in Mexico
2
s 71
Dosing breeding turkeys
110
16
Dressing, cost of
76
40
Dressing, rules for
128
34
Dust, bath
126
127
B
28
119
Early shipments
Earthen ware, broken
79
150
Eastern growers, losses of
106
10
Eggs, hatch best
12J
98
Eggs of wila
%
INDEX.
157
Eggs, to insure fertile 119
Eggs, when begin to hatch 130
Etymology of 1
Europe, into 1
Experience with an albino
gobbler 6
Fanciers' Review, from 97
Fascination for raising 48
Fasten, to 120
Fat, in autumn and early
winter 8
Fattening and marketing 72
Faults in parentage 137
Favorites, the 36
Feathers of Bronze 17
Feathers of 82
Feathers, choice body 82
Feathers, dry picked 83
Feathers, price of 84
Feathers, to ship 83
Feathering period 68
Feed 52
Feed, after first 121
Feet, marking 89
Female, the 48
Fencing 113
Food cooked 68
Food, deprive of 76
Food, fourth week after
hatching 117
Food, green 68
For breeders 50
France, in 58
Fries, Sarah, by 151
Frightened 75
G
Gapes
Gobbler, the 40
Gobblers, change 131
Grease, head and neck 152
Green, Mrs. Johnson A., by 152
Green food 68
Growing, a business 43
Grown, after half 122
Habits, not changed 5
Half bled out 76
Half-blood hens 38
Half-wild gobblers 40
Hard-boiled eggs for young 117
Hatching, day of 65
Head of male 16
Hindrances 90
Honduras, the 15
Hot feed 53
Housed 61
How to keep at home 111
I
Incubation 55
Infusing fresh blood from
wild turkey 37
Isolated when sick 118
J
Jews, name by 3
Judging the Bronze 18
K
Kentucky methods 129
Kill, to 123
Killing, after 76
Killing 76
Killed, when 11
Killing of young hens for
market 47
Kousso 111
Koussein 111
Late hatched 53
Lavender 31
Laying 13
Layers, early 124
Laying and hatching 54
Leg weakness Mi-
Liberty of 70
Lice * 26
Lice, to find 125
Lime, air-slaked 101
Little turkeys 68
Liver, disease of 106
Loss, from foxes and hawks 128
Lotion 98
London, at 34
M
Males, battle of 11
Male fern 111
Male, head of 10
Maltese 31
Market birds, good 33
Marketing 72
Marketing turkey feathers 81
Marking 85
Mated, when 120
Matured, when 129
Mating 36
Matrimony 10
Meal, first 65
Megnin, by 104
Mexico, domesticated in 2
Mexico, from 1
Mexican, the 15
Mongrels 86
158
TURKEY CULTURE.
Mother, best 133
Mothers, attentive 61
N
Narragansett, coloring of 33
Narragansett. the 31
Natural food r 52
Nests, barrel 130
Nes";s of the Brush 34
Nest of wild 5
Nests in field or pasture 135
Nests, roomy 135
New Brunswick, culture in 139
New Jersey system 136
Newport, near 79
New York market 77
North American, the 15
Northern corn 69
Not hard to raise 44
Old hands 74
Old turkeys 46
Ontario methods 152
Origin 1
Origin of Bronze 16
Origin of Narragansett 31
Origin of White Holland 25
Ornamental 9
Packing 77
Painting by Audubon 8
Parent birds, not related 149
Parentage, faults of 139
Parent stock, selection of 46
Parent stock, to replenish 46
Penning, avoid 131
Pennsylvania system 149
Pepper in food 69
Pepper, use 96
Peter Enty, by 25
Philadelphia market 77
Pick, to 129
Picking 76
Pills 98
Pine, Miss E. J., by 123
Plumage 32
Poor, if 129
Potatoes, cooked for 73
Poultry trains 80
Pounded crockery 68
Powder, to 56
Prescott, by 1
Prevention of diseases 93
Price 30
Prize essays 115
Profit in marketing featners 82
Prudence Island 143
Purchasing birds 95
Pyrethrum Jbr lice 82
Q
Quarter wild crosses 38
Raisers of 73
Raising by women 45
Raising, fascinations of 48
Raising in Illinois 131
Raising, why difficult 136
Range 43
Rare color of buff 28
Rations, extra 72
Rearing the chicks 64
Relations to peacock 2
Restives, the 59
Rhode Island experiment
station 39
Rhode Island's famous
system 143
Rhode Island Pattern 67
Rhode Island Red 30
Romans, brought by 3
Roosts, on 13
Roost, to 127
Roup 97
Run, out for a 152
Rudd, W. H., Son & Co.,
write 179
S
Salmon, Dr., by
Scalded feathers
109
83
77
Scalded stock
Scrofula
Secondary feathers 21
Second hatchings, aftei 133
Second prize essay 118
Secrets of raising 123
Selected parent birds 115
Sell, best time to 79
Selling after Christmas 81
Sitting, to prevent 55
Sewell, by 34
Sexon, Mrs. A. J., by 46
Sheds 86
Shelter 85
Shingling 66
Shipping 77
Shipping in cold weather 78
Shrinks in dressing 76
Sick, isolated when 118
Sitting in undesirable local-
ity IA6
Size of Narragansett
Skin of young fowl 25
Slate
INDEX.
159
Slate varieties
Smith, Dr., by
Soaked bread, feed
Standard weight of Buffs
Standard of excellence
Start, to make a
Stevenson, W. E., by
Stiles, Dr., by
Storm, in a
Stun, never
Successful experience
Sutton, Mrs. C. P., by
Sweet milk for young
Symmetry, to get
T
Tail feathers
Tansy
Tapeworms, prevalence of
Tarkington, E. K., by
Thanksgiving at Boston
Thanksgiving, before
Thanksgiving shipments
Thieves
Third prize essay
Throw the red
Training to sit at any time
Trap for
Triangular pens
Tucker, experience of
Turkey tree
Tuscawara Beds
Two broods to.one mother
V
Vermin, free from
30
W
108
Walter, Dr. H. D., by
100
132
Wattle or snout
16
30
Weak poults
26
42
118
Weight of Bronze
Weight of White Holland
16
25
62
109
122
Weight of Narragansett
Well-dressed pay best
Western breeders
31
128
50
76
Western New York, how
123
grown
151
118
117
West, shipments from
Western shippers
81
78
19
Western style of board
67
Wet, raw food, avoid
151
91
White Holland
24
/I
Whole buckwheat
127
Wild state, in
54
108
129
QA
Wild turkeys' eggs
Wild, where found
38
85
oU
79
Williams, Mrs. S., by
136
l£l
QA
Windbreak
5
oU
90
Wings grow faster than
19«i
bodies
125
j.zo
70
CO
Winter, training in
Wisconsin idea
62
146
Oo
1/1
Wolff, by
18
1*
145
39
Wooing of
Worms
10
103
127
Y
30
118
Young, care of
116
140
STANDARD BOOKS
PUBLISHED BY
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
NEW YORK CHICAGO
£39*441 Lafayette Street Marquette Building
1DOOKS sent to all farts of the world for catalog
price. Discounts for large quantities on appli-
cation. Correspondence invited. Brief descriptive
catalog free. Large illustrated catalog^ six cents.
Soils
By CHARLES WILLIAM BURKETT, Director Kansas Agri-
cultural Experiment Station. The most complete and popular
work of the kind ever published. As a rule, a book of this
sort is dry and uninteresting, but in this case it reads like %
novel. The author has put into it his individuality. The story
of the properties of the soils, their improvement and manage-
ment, as well as a discussion of the problems of crop growing
and crop feeding, make this book equally valuable to the
farmer, student and teacher.
There are many illustrations of a practical character, each,
one suggesting some fundamental principle in soil manage-
ment. 303 pages. 5^2 x 8 inches. Cloth $1.25
Insects Injurious to Vegetables
By Dr. F. H. CHITTENDEN, of the United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture. A complete, practical work giving
descriptions of the more important insects attacking vegetables
of all kinds with simple and inexpensive remedies to check and
destroy them, together with timely suggestions to prevent their
recurrence. A ready reference book for truckers, market-
gardeners, farmers as well as others who grow vegetables in a
small way for home use ; a valuable guide for college and ex-
periment station workers, school-teachers and others interested
in entomology of nature study. Profusely illustrated. 5^ x 8
inches. 300 pages. Cloth $1.50
Farm Grasses of the United States of America
By WILLIAM JASPER SPILLMAN. A practical treatise on
the grass crop, seeding and management of meadows and
pastures, description of the best varieties, the seed and its
impurities, grasses for special conditions, lawns and iawn
grasses, etc., etc. In preparing this volume the author's ob-
ject has been to present, in connected form, the main facts
concerning the grasses grown on American farms. Every
phase of the subject is viewed from the farmer's standpoint.
Illustrated. 248 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . $1.00
The Book of Corn
By HERBERT MYRICK, assisted by A- D SHAMEL, E. A.
BURNETT, ALBERT W. FULTON, B. W. SNOW and other most
capable specialists. A complete treatise on tbe culture,
marketing and uses of maize in America and elsewhere, for
farmers, dealers and others. Illustrated. 372 pages. 5x7
inches. Cloth $IJ5<X
The Hop — It's Culture and Care, Marketing
and Manufacture
By HERBERT MYRICK. A practical handbook on the most
approved methods in growing, harvesting, curing and selling
hops, and on the use and manufacture of hops. The result of
years of research and observation, it is a volume destined to
be an authority on this crop for many years to come. It
takes up every detail from preparing the soil and laying out
the yard to curing and selling the crop. Every line represents
the ripest judgment and experience of experts. Size, 5x8;
pages, 300 ; illustrations, nearly 150 ; bound in cloth and gold ;
price, postpaid, $1.50
Tobacco Leaf
By J. B. KILLEBREW and HERBERT MYRICK. Its Culture
and Cure, Marketing and Manufacture. A practical hand-
book on the most approved methods in growing, harvesting,
curing, packing and selling tobacco, with an account of the
operations in every department of tobacco manufacture. The
contents t of this book are based on actual experiments in
field, curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It
is the only work of the kind in existence, and i? destined to be
the standard practical and scientific authority on the whole
subject of tobacco for many years. 506 pages and 150 original
engravings. 5x7 inches. Cloth $2.00
The New Egg Farm
By H. H. STODDARD. A practical, reliable manual on
producing eggs and poultry for market as a profitable business
enterprise, either by itself or connected with other branches
of agriculture. It tells all about how to feed and manage,
how to breed and select, incubators and brooders, its labor-
saving devices, etc., etc. Illustrated. 331 pages. 5x7 inches.
Cloth. $1.00
Poultry Feeding and Fattening
Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A handbook for poultry keep-
ers on the standard and improved methods of feeding and
marketing all kinds of poultry. The subject of feeding and
fattening poultry is prepared largely from the side of the
best practice and experience here and abroad, although the
underlying science of feeding is explained as fully as needful.
The subject covers all branches, including chickens, broilers,
capons, turkeys and waterfowl ; how to feed under various
conditions and for different purposes. The whole subject of
capons and caponizing is treated in detail. A great mass of
practical information and experience not readily obtainable
elsewhere is given with full and explicit directions for fatten-
ing and preparing for market. This book will meet the needs
of amateurs as well as commercial poultry raisers. Profusely
illustrated. 160 pages. 5x71-2 inches. Cloth. . $0.50
Poultry Architecture
Compiled by G. B. FISKE. A treatise on poultry buildings
of all grades, styles and classes, and their proper location,
coops, additions and special construction ; all practical in de-
sign, and reasonable in cost. Over 100 illustrations. 125 pages.
5x7 inches. Cloth $0.50
Poultry Appliances and Handicraft
Compiled by G. B. FISKE. Illustrated descriptions of a
great variety and styles of the best homemade nests, roosts,
windows, ventilators, incubators and brooders, feeding and
watering appliances, etc., etc. Over 100 illustrations. Over
125 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $0.50
Turkeys and How to Grow Them
Edited by HERBERT MYRICK. A treatise on the natural
history and origin of the name of turkeys ; the various breeds,
the best methods to insure success in the business of turkey
growing. With essays from practical turkey growers in
different parts of the United States and Canada. Copiously
illustrated. 154 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . $1.00
Animal Breeding
By THOMAS SHAW. This book is the most complete and
comprehensive work ever published on the subject of which
it treats. It is the first book which has systematized the
subject of animal breeding. The leading laws which govern
this most intricate question the author has boldly denned and
authoritatively arranged. The chapters which he has written
on the more involved features of the subject, as sex and the
relative influence of parents, should go far toward setting at
rest the wildly speculative views cherished with reference tc
these questions. The striking originality in the treatment of
the subject is no less conspicuous than the superb order and
regular sequence of thought from the beginning to the end
of the book. The book is intended to meet the needs of all
persons interested in the breeding and rearing of live stock.
Illustrated. 405 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . $1.50
Forage Crops Other than Grasses
By THOMAS SHAW. How to cultivate, harvest and use
them. Indian corn, sorghum, clover, leguminous plants,
crops of the brassica genus, the cereals, millet, field roots,
etc. Intensely practical and reliable. Illustrated. 287 pages.
5x7 inches. Cloth $1.00
Soiling Crops and the Silo
By THOMAS SHAW. The growing and feeding of all kinds
of soiling crops, conditions to which they are adapted, their
plan in the rotation, etc. Not a line is repeated from the
Forage Crops book. Best methods of building the silo, filling
it and feeding ensilage. Illustrated. 364 pages. 5x7 inches.
Cloth. $1.50
The Study of Breeds
By THOMAS SHAW. Origin, history, distribution, charac-
teristics, adaptability, uses and standards of excellence of all
pedigreed breeds of cattle, sheep and swine in America. The
accepted text book in colleges, and the authority for farmers
and breeders. Illustrated. 371 pages. 5x7 inches.
Cloth. $1.50
Clovers and How to Grow Them
By THOMAS SHAW. This is the first book published which
treats on the growth, cultivation and treatment of clovers as
applicable to all parts of the United States and Canada, and
which takes up the entire subject in a systematic way and
consecutive sequence. The importance of clover in the econ-
omy of the farm is so great that an exhaustive work on this
subject will no doubt be welcomed by students in agriculture,
as well as by all who are interested in the tilling of the soil.
Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 337 pages. Cloth. Net . . .$1.00
Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants .
By C. L. ALLEN. A complete treatise on the history,
description, methods of propagation and full directions for
the successful culture of bulbs in the garden, dwelling and
greenhouse. The author of this book has for many years
made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority
on their cultivation and management. The cultural direc-
tions are plainly stated, practical and to the point. The
illustrations which embellish this work have been drawn
from nature and have been engraved especially for this
book. 312 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . . $1.50
Fumigation Methods
By WILLIS G. JOHNSON. A timely up-to-date book on
the practical application of the new methods for destroying
insects with hydrocyanic acid gas and carbon bismphid, the
most powerful insecticides ever discovered. It is an indis-
pensable book for farmers, fruit growers, nurserymen, garden-
ers, florists, millers, grain dealers, transportation companies,
college and experiment station workers, etc. Illustrated. 313
pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $1.00
Diseases of Swine
By Dr. R. A. CRAIG, Professor of Veterinary Medicine at
the Purdue University. A concise, practical and popular guide
to the prevention and treatment of the diseases of swine. With
the discussions on each disease are given its causes, symptoms,
treatment and means of prevention. Every part of the book
impresses the reader with the fact that its writer is thoroughly
and practically familiar with all the details upon which he
treats. All technical and strictly scientific terms are avoided,
so far as feasible, thus making the work at once available to
the practical stock raiser as well as to the teacher and student.
Illustrated. 5x7 inches. 190 pages. Cloth $0.75
Spraying Crops — Why, When and How
By CLARENCE M. WEED, D. Sc. The present fourth edition
has been rewritten and reset throughout to bring it thoroughly
up to date, so that it embodies the latest practical information
gleaned by fruit growers and experiment station workers. So
much new information has come to light since the third edition
was published that this is practically a new book, needed by
those who have utilized the earlier editions, as well as by fruit
growers and farmers generally. Illustrated. 136 pages. 5x7
inches. Cloth. $0.50
The Nut Culturist
By ANDREW S. FULLER. A treatise on the propagation,
planting and cultivation of nut-bearing trees and shrubs
adapted to the climate of the United States, with the scien-
tific and common names of the fruits known in commerce as
edible or otherwise useful nuts. Intended to aid the farmer
to increase his income without adding to his expenses or
labor. Cloth. I2mo $1.50
Cranberry Culture
By JOSEPH J. WHITE. Contents: Natural history, history
of cultivation, choice of location, preparing the ground, plant-
ing the vines, management of meadows, flooding, enemies
and difficulties overcome, picking, keeping, profit and loss.
Illustrated. 132 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . $1.00
Ornamental Gardening for Americans
By ELIAS A. LONG, landscape architect. A treatise on
beautifying homes, rural districts and cemeteries. A plain
and practical work with numerous illustrations and instruc-
tions so plain that they may be readily followed. Illustrated.
390 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $1.50
Grape Culturist
By A. S. FULLER. This is one of the very best of works
on the culture of the hardy grapes, with full directions for
all departments of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent
engravings, illustrating planting, training, grafting, etc.
282 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $1.50
Gardening for Young and Old
By JOSEPH HARRIS. A work intended to interest farmers'
boys in farm gardening, which means a better and more profit-
able form of agriculture. The teachings are given in the
familiar manner so well known in the author's "Walks and
Talks on the Farm." Illustrated. 191 pages. 5x7 inches.
Cloth. $1.00
Money in the Garden
By P T. QUINN. The author gives in a plain, practical
style instructions on three distinct, although closely connected,
branches of gardening— the kitchen garden, market garden and
field culture, from successful practical experience for a term
pf years. Illustrated. 268 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. $J-QQ
Cabbage, Cauliflower and Allied Vegetables
By C. L. ALLEN. A practical treatise on the various
types and varieties of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, kale, collards and kohl-rabi. An explanation is given
of the requirements, conditions, cultivation and general
management pertaining to the entire cabbage group. After this
each class is treated separately and in detail. The chapter
on seed raising is probably the most authoritative treatise on
this subject ever published. Insects and fungi attacking this
class of vegetables are given due attention. Illustrated. 126
pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $0.50
Asparagus
By F. M. HEXAMER. This is the first book published in
America which is exclusively devoted to the raising of aspara-
gus for home use as well as for market. It is a practical
and reliable treatise on the saving of the seed, raising of the
plants, selection and preparation of the soil, planting, cultiva-
tion, manuring, cutting, bunching, packing, marketing, canning
and drying insect enemies, fungous diseases and every require-
ment to successful asparagus culture, special emphasis being
given to the importance of asparagus as a farm and money
crop. Illustrated. 174 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. - $0.50*
The New Onion Culture
By T. GREINER. Rewritten, greatly enlarged and brought
up to date. A new method of growing onions of largest size
and yield, on less land, than can be raised by the old plan.
Thousands of farmers and gardeners and many experiment
stations have given it practical trials which have proved a
success. A complete guide in growing onions with the great-
est profit, explaining the whys and wherefores. Illustrated.
5x7 inches. 140 pages. Cloth $0.50
The New Rhubarb Culture
A complete guide to dark forcing and field culture. Part
I — By J. E. MORSE, the well-known Michigan trucker and
originator of the now famous and extremely profitable new
methods of dark forcing and field culture. t Part II — Compiled
by G. B. FISKE. Other methods practiced 'by the most experi-
enced market gardeners, greenhouse men and experimenters in
all parts of America. Illustrated. 130 pages. 5x7 inches.
Cloth. .,,,,, $0.50
Alfalfa
By F. D. COBURN. Its growth, uses and feeding value.
The fact that alfalfa thrives in almost any soil; that without
reseeding it goes on yielding two, three, four and sometimes
five cuttings annually for five, ten or perhaps 100 years; and
that either green or cured it is one of the most nutritious
forage plants known, makes reliable information upon its pro-
duction and uses of unusual interest. Such information is
given in this volume for every part of America, by the highest
authority. Illustrated. 164 pages. 5 ,x 7 inches. Cloth. $0.5(7
Ginseng, Its Cultivation, Harvesting, Market'
ing and Market Value
By MAURICE G. KAINS. with a short account of its historv
and botany. It discusses in a practical way how to begin witn
either seed or roots, soil, climate and location, preparation,
planting and maintenance of the beds, artificial propagation,
manures, enemies, selection for market and for improvement,
preparation for sale, and the profits that may be expected.
This booklet is concisely written, well and profusely illus-
trated, and should be in the hands of all who expect to grow
this drug to supply the export trade, and to add a new and
profitable industry to their farms and gardens without inter-
fering with the regular work. New edition. Revised and en-
larged. Illustrated. 5x7 inches. Cloth. . . . $0.50
Landscape Gardening
By F. A. WAUGH, professor of horticulture, University of
Vermont. A treatise on the general principles governing
outdoor art ; with sundry suggestions for their application
in the ccmmoner problems of gardening. Every paragraph is
short, terse and to the point, giving perfect clearness to the
discussions at all points. In spite of the natural difficulty
of presenting abstract principles the whole matter is made
entirely plain even to the inexperienced reader. Illustrated.
152 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth. ..... $0.50
Hedges, Windbreaks, Shelters and Live Fences
By E. P. POWELL. A treatise on the planting, growth
and management of hedge plants for country and suburban
homes. It gives accurate directions concerning hedges; how
to plant and how to treat them ; and especially concerning
windbreaks and shelters. It includes the whole art of making
a delightful home, giving directions for nooks and balconies,
for bird culture and for human comfort. Illustrated. 140
pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $0.50
t
Greenhouse Construction
By PROF. L. R. TAFT. A complete treatise on greenhouse
structures and arrangements of the various forms and styles
of plant houses for professional florists as well as amateurs.
All the best and most approved structures are so fully and
clearly described that any one who desires to build a green-
house will have no difficulty in determining the kind best
suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful meth-
ods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special
chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one
kind of plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds and
frames receives appropriate attention. Over 100 excellent
illustrations, especially engraved for this work, make every
point clear to the reader and add considerably to the artistic
appearance of the book. 210 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth, $1.50
Greenhouse Management
By L. R. TAFT. This book forms an almost indispensable
companion volume to Greenhouse Construction. In it the
author gives the results of his many years' experience, together
with that of the most successful florists and gardeners, in the
management of growing plants under glass. So minute and
practical are the various systems and methods of growing
and forcing roses, violets, carnations, and all the most impor-
tant florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described,
that by a careful study of this work and the following of its
teachings, failure is almost impossible. Illustrated. 382 pages.
5x7 inches. Cloth $1.50
Fungi and Fungicides
By PROF. CLARENCE M. WEED. A practical manual con-
cerning the fungous diseases of cultivated plants and the
means of preventing their ravages. The author has endeav-
ored to give such a concise account of the most important
facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to combat
them intelligently. 90 illustrations. 222 pages. 5x7 inches.
Paper, 50 cents; cloth $i.oc
Mushrooms. How to Grow Them
By WILLIAM FALCONER. This is the most practical work
on the subject ever written, and the only book on growing
mushrooms published in America. The author describes how
he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for profit by
the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most
successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature
expressly for this work. 170 pages. 5x7 inches. Cloth $i.QC
RETURN TO the circulation desk of any
University of California Library
or to the
NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station
University of California
Richmond, CA 94804-4698
ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
• 2-month loans may be renewed by calling
(510)642-6753
• 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing
books to NRLF
• Renewals and recharges may be made 4
days prior to due date.
DUE AS STAMPED BELOW
SEP 2 9 2000
12,000(11/95)