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TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

TWENTY YEARS
IN ROUMANIA

BY

MAUDE PARKINSON

LONDON : GEORGE ALLEN & UNWIN, LTD.
RUSKIN HOUSE, 40 MUSEUM STREET, W.C. i

First published in 1 92 1

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PREFACE

NOW that I have set down in black and white
these random impressions and recollections
of a country in which I spent many of the happiest
years of my life, a slight feeling of doubt assails me.
Might my Roumanian friends possibly find cause
for offence in the freedom which I have allowed
myself ? Then I remember that they have a sense
of humour, and the doubt vanishes.

If I deal frankly with some of the methods and
customs of the country, it is because I hope to give
English readers an insight into the character of the
people, and enable them to find there, as I have
found, a very great deal to love.

When, after my long absence from England, I
compare our own methods and ways of thought with
those which have become so familiar to me in
Roumania, the latter do not always suffer in the
comparison. Indeed, if I wrote about some of the
things which have especially struck me since my
return, I might arouse a good deal of resentment.

Some of the best friends I have in the world are
Roumanians. The kindness and sympathy they
showed me during a time of great sorrow in my life
must be an enduring memory. Rather than be
suspected of repaying such kindness by holding up
my friends to ridicule, I would tear up these pages

6 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

which I— a tyro in the art of letters -have written
with so much labour, but also, I must add, with so
much pleasure.

After completing my education in Germany, I
spent some time very happily in Vienna with
friends who were well acquainted with Roumania.

I became fascinated by their descriptions of life
in a country which for me had something of the
glamour of the Orient, and so, armed with letters
of introduction, I proceeded to Bucarest and soon
established myself as a teacher of languages. For
the twenty-two following years of my life I lived in
Roumania ; but for the war I should probably be
there now.

My relations with my pupils, members of the best-
known families in the country, were always of the
pleasantest, and as Roumanians have a natural
aptitude for languages, there was no drudgery in
the teaching.

Since I left the country Roumania has come
through a time of terrible trial.

My heart has often been wrung by the accounts
of the sufferings of my friends ; but even during the
darkest days of the war I was sustained by the
knowledge that they never once lost courage. They
displayed a spirit as indomitable as our own, and
now I rejoice that their fiery trial is over, and that
the dawn of a glorious day has arrived.

MAUDE REA PARKINSON.

AHMAGH, 1921.

CONTENTS

PAGES

CHAPTER I 17-23

A real enterprise — The glamour of the Arabian Nights — Off
to an iinknown country — Light on the way— A friend
at coiu-t — I figure as a Nihilist — The Hungarian
" express " — Wild men in sheep -skins — An intruder
routed — Bucarest, a dreadful town — Adventures by
flood and street — A warm reception.

CHAPTER II 24-33

Hazy ideas about Roumania — " Bucarest, Turkey " — A
letter for Sinaia goes to Simla — The physical features
of the country — Its mineral wealth — The chief towns
— The Cernavoda Bridge — The railways and the
scenery through which they pass — The mighty
Danube — The Iron Gates.

CHAPTER III 34-42

The Government of Roumania — The Parliament — Lively
elections — The batiusi and their big sticks — Military
picnics at election times — " General Post " after an
election — Party handwriting — Natiual selection cir-
cumscribed for postal officials — The army— A soldier's
life not always a happy one — Military marketers,
nurses, and spring-cleaners — Tlie accession celebra-
tions— On parade — The opposition goes into mourn-
ing and enjoys a happy day — Threatening demon-
strations which end happily — A gallant army—If
stiff on parade, the Roumanian soldier is " one of
the best."

CHAPTER IV 43-52

The religion of Roumania — The head of the Church must
be a monk, and therefore a celibate — -The priests are
of the peasant class, unlearned and little respected —
A priest's monthly rounds — Prayers for a girl's

7

8 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

PAGES

marriage — St Demetre the patron saint of Bucarest
— His vocation as a rain-maker — He is brought out
when the priests see the rain coming — Roumanian
chtirches — The legend of Curtea d'Argesh — The well
of Manole's wife's tears— Easter customs — The
Roumanian monasteries : dens for lazy people — A
wonderful grotto — The convents — Princess Marie
as a nun.

CHAPTER V 53-58

Roumania's capital — A garden city — Modesty on the
trams — " A town of one street, one church, and one
idea " — The Galea Victorie — Two hundred churches
— The church of Doamna Balash — English customs
gaining headway — The houses of Bucarest — After-
noon calls and refreshments — The fortifications.

CHAPTER VI 59-66

The land system — The Dominele or squirearchy — The
simple life of the peasants— The beginning of a revolt
— A premature outbreak — The countryside in flames
— King Carol's new guns first used on his subjects — A
village population exterminated — Terror in the town
— I go to church and am relieved to see Princess
Marie there — The tale of a sufferer — The priests and
schoolmasters the instigators — The peasants' sub-
terranean dwellings.

CHAPTER VII 67-71

Village scenes — National dances — The picturesque peasant
costumes — Peasant girls who powder and paint —
An idyllic scene — A country wedding — Peasant
simplicity.

CHAPTER VIII 72-81

Trade and commerce — The only strictly Roumanian
shops belong to Princes — No English shops, though
they woiild be welcomed — English catalogues unin-
telligible— An English firm and its " standard "
colour — A successfvU English factory — The labour
question, saints' days and names-days — German fac-
tories— Beer taxed in the interests of wine — Sugar and
cheese factories — Sheep-milking — Petroleum wells in
Roumania — An infiux of Americans — Rockefeller's

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 9

PAQES

agent, Mr Chamberlain, and his family — How a man
of gipsy origin " struck oil " and became a millionaire
— Paper-mills and coal-mines.

CHAPTER IX 82-88

Severe restrictions on Jews — The Jews as traders — Their
vigorous methods — They exploit the peasants of the
countryside as wine-shopkeepers and moneylenders
— The Jews as tenants of estates sublet at rack rents
— The original proprietor cannot see that he has any
share of responsibility for the grinding down of the
peasants — An anti-Jewish riot in the Lipscani — A
family of Paris Jews make a large fortune in a fashion-
able shop in a few years — A Jewish wedding which
is a double one.

CHAPTER X 89-96

The educational system — Long hoiirs of study and no
fresh air or exercise — Take Jonescu, as Minister of
Education, introduces the bath-tub to the schools
and provides for walking exercise — School fare is
never good — A water famine — Examinations and
show questions — English poetry translated literally —
German literature taught in French, the pupils being
examined in Roumanian — Lack of books in the
Roumanian language — The school fetes — Convents
and proselytising — A girl who despised all the pleas-
ures of the world and ran away to become a nun.

CHAPTER XI 97-102

Take Jonescu, an enlightened Minister of Education — " La
bouche d'or" — His personality — A true Roumanian
in his almost Oriental love of luxviry — His town and
country houses — Madame Jonescu an as authoress
— Her menagerie of pets — The love-story of Take
Jonescu — The meeting of the law student and the
English girl — A trip to England follows — Obstacles
are overcome and a happy marriage follows.

CHAPTER XII 103-111

The National Theatre — The students' riot on behalf of the
national language — -Racing as a fashionable amuse-
ment— English jockeys and trainers — The Battle of
Flowers — The devotees of the card-table — Rafting on
the Bistritza ; a glorious sport.

10 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

PAGES

CHAPTER XIII 112-115

The blessing of the waters : a picturesque ceremony —
Diving for the cross — Baptising the Jew — The chUd
rain-makers ; a charming custom — How I watered
the human plants- — The peasants celebrate the sowing
of the seed

CHAPTER XIV 116-120

Festivals — A cruel christening — Marriage-making — The
fiance a bore— The bride's moral references —
Anonymous letters — The bridal dress — The marriage
ceremony — A floral departure — Hired jewellery as
wedding presents — Child brides — Tempted to the altar
with a doll !

CHAPTER XV 121-128

Pretty Roumanian women — Adventitious aids to beauty
— Paris toilets — Childish extravagances — Men with
London tailors — A dandy in blue boots — Some quaint
superstitions — Warding off the ovU eye — The efficacy
of hot coals and a cup of water^The Mar^isoara, or
March token — A wife's indiscretion punished :
story of poetic justice — The Mar^isoara as a tem-
peramental barometer.

CHAPTER XVI 129-133

English nurses introduce the bath-tub— Matutinal
ablutions in a country house — Abstinence from
ablutions a proof of holiness — The funeral of a Metro-
politan ; dead prelate in the procession- — Afternoon
tea's equivalent in a tomb.

CHAPTER XVII 134-143

The servant question not so acute as in England —
Establishments of thirty servants — Five or six for pro-
fessional people — Terms and duties of service — An
imwilling bather — A highly recommended maid who
waited at table barefooted — The reference books of
servants — The servants' quarters — A strange privilege;
female servants may have their hiisbands or putative
husbands and their families to live witli them —
Costly marriage fees are prohibitive — " Madam " and
"Madame" — Linguistic pitfalls; a "master" or a
" cake " ? — When a bald-headed cook is wanted —
Leaving cards on names-days — An omnibus round. I

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 11

PAGES

CHAPTER XVIII 144-150

Convict life in the salt mines — A Roumanian Jack
Sheppard — The trick that laid him low — Procedure
in murder cases — The reconstruction of the crime
— Scant justice for servants ; no Habeas Corpus Act
in Roumania — A man whose face was the only
evidence against him — Gipsies and the building trade ;
the men act as masons and bricklayers, the women as
their labourers — Exhibition of new clothes when a
roof is put on — Fiddling ragamuffins — Gipsies as
musicians — Guarding against gipsies in the
Carpathians.

CHAPTER XIX 151-158

King Carol as a diplomat — Lichnowsky as a Secretary of
Legation — The scandal about his chief's (Prince von
Billow) wife — I see something at Bad Hall — A great
ladies' man ; he goes too far at length and is
" promoted " to another sphere — Kiderlein Wachter,
genial and popular — An unfortunate dinner-party
over which his housekeeper presided — Prince Gulo-
chovski and his wife — Some British ambassadors :
Sir Frank Lascelles and Sir Chas. (now Lord) Hardinge
— How the latter rendered me a great service — Sir
Henry Drummond Wolff — Sir Jolin Kennedy and
Lady Kennedy and their family — Better times for the
British colony — The British colony — Its religious
interests — Bishop Collins and his visits to Bucarest —
His tragic end deeply regretted — Since the war
Bucarest has many more British visitors — A British
Chamber of Commerce, and a projected club.

CHAPTER XX 159-166

The French colony — An outspoken abbe — The German
colony — Its schools, churches, and hospitals — A split
in the camp of deaconesses — Teaching or nursing ?
— A well-conducted hospital — Roumanian hospitals —
An eminent surgeon, Dr Thomas Jonescu — An erratic
American dentist — His exclusive practice — Leaves
a Prince waiting with open mouth whilst he goes on a
trip to Sinaia.

CHAPTER XXI 167-171

The coming of King Carol — Roumanians dislike the
Germans and hate the Hungarians — King Carol a

12 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

PAGES

reticent, self-contained, lonely man — His only public
appearances — A ball for the hoi polloi—K.ing Carol's
father his sole adviser — His desire to abdicate —
Roumania owes much to the late King.

CHAPTER XXII . . .... 172-180

Queen Elizabeth (Carmen Sylva) — An early dilemma : no
divorcees, no court — A quaint divorce story — The
true story of the meeting of Carol and Elizabeth —
Did she love the country or its King ? — Her dead
chUd's tomb — The Queen as a writer — Her passion ^

for music — Pity the poor professional ! — Cold soup
for the King — The Queen's personal appearance —
Her asylum for the blind, and the German manager
who failed — " My sixtieth birthday," and how it was
spent— The Queen and the enfants terribles — The
orphans of the " Asyle Helene " — Cotroceni and its
unlucky palace.

CHAPTER XXIII 181-184

Ferdinand of Sigmaringen becomes heir to the throne —
He is a good soldier and a favovirite with his officers
— The friend of the Allies — His marriage with Prin-
cess Marie — The Princess's home-coming : a lonely
stranger — A gala performance — The Prince's mission
to Germany — Roumanian officers meet half a dozen
Herr " Mahlzeits."

CHAPTER XXIV 185-190

The Princess in a merry mood — How Prince Ferdinand
deluged the tablecloth — A cxirtain lecture for Princess
Marie ? — The royal children — Elizabeth a beauty —
Mignonne (Marie) " a beautiful little snow-maiden,"
yet piquant and merry — Ileana of the china-blue
eyes has a great idea of her own importance — Prince
Carol, a fine fellow, learns politeness — He and
Elizabeth eat raw carrots in the Minister's garden
— A war game with Pat Kennedy, when neither
would be a Boer — Pretty Prince Nicolas, " a little
terror "^Nicolas as a sailor — His watch on deck and
his sea-strut — An adventure at Piraeus — A sailor
valet— Nicolas's first commimion and his struggle
with the bread — The royal governesses — A little
story about the Queen of Holland.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 13

CHAPTER XXV

Winter in Roumania — Fetes on the ice — An " escaped
bear " causes a sensation, till he loses his head —
Prince Carol establishes the bob-sleigh as a society
craze — An unlucky accident to Princess Elizabeth —
An end to bob -sleighing — Sleighs and winter costumes
— Cliristmas — New Year's Eve.

PAGES

191-197

CHAPTER XXVI 198-205

Sinaia and its summer Court — Gay life in the Carpathians
— Court ladies in national costume — Sinaia at various
seasons — The monastery and the Queen's room there ;
she decorates it with caricatures of society ladies —
A fete at the monastery — King Edward at Sinaia —
Lord Roberts a guest there — The Crown Prince's
residence — Princess Marie's " cuib " or " Crusoe "
amongst the trees — Her sister, the Grand Duchess of
Hesse — Little Princess Ella — A merry party in the
woods — A tragedy recalled.

CHAPTER XXVII 206-212

Franz d'Este and his morganatic wife at Sinaia — My
recollection of him at Vienna — Society girls with
cold feet — The German Crown Prince popular at
Bucarest — But he was only there a fortnight — The
King and his " shade wers " — Predeal — The leap
over the frontier — A little smuggling — A beautiful
and historic road.

CHAPTER XXVIII

A delightful equestrian excursion — We leave Sinaia in
order to witness the sunrise from Omul— Midnight
in the forest, and the ghostly hom's before the dawn
— Gathering edelweiss whilst we await the sunrise — •
A glorious spectacle — The coveted province spread
out before our eyes — An equestrian quadrille on the
summit of Omul— The guest-house of the monastery
—On the homeward way — We descend the Jeppi on
foot, and meet with unexpected difficulties — Danger
follows upon danger — A dreadful night on a mountain
peak — Excitement at Sinaia — Triumphant retiu-n of
the" heroes " and " heroines."

213-221

14 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

CHAPTER XXIX

Cholera in Russia — I hurry back to Roumania — I am put
in quarantine on the frontier, and Hberally disinfected
— The soldier guard aims his gun at me — My Jewish
room-mate and her obtrusive husband — She plays
" patience " whilst he prays and expectorates — I get
my release and send a military expedition in search
of a mirror — Miss R. tries to escape from Russia —
Her companion, a German engineer, develops cholera
— The terrified peasants place them together in an
empty cottage— The German dies — She finds when,
after a terrifying experience, she reaches Bucarest
her hair is snow white.

CHAPTER XXX

The beggars of Bucarest — A plan that failed — Was it
inspired by Count Rumford's Mvmich scheme ? —
Where the beggars spend their holidays — No lack
of charity — Footless, and yet wanted boots — Influence
of priests and beggars on the currency — A stroll
through the market — -Serbians as market gardeners
— An exhibition in Bucarest — Princess Marie and
the water-chute — Excessive gambling — The Mop —
English " stupidity " — Nothing to buy in London — •
Bucarest to London via the North Sea and Edin-
burgh— Jefferson Bricks in Bucarest.

CHAPTER XXXI

Roumania's early history — Michael the Brave — Stephen
the Great — A Spartan mother — Brancovan's noble
efforts bring abovit his end — Oppression promotes
union — Greek extortion — Russia and Turkey — The
westernising of Roumania — The Treaty of Paris—
The European Commission — The new State of
Roumania — Prince Cuza and his fall — The siege of
Plevna — Roumania's present aims.

PAGES

222-227

228-238

239-245

CHAPTER XXXII ■

Turkish influence on Rovunanian mind and manners — The
origin of the people — Clearly descended from the
Romans of Trajan's day — Collateral evidence of Latin
origin in the language— Pride of race — Transylvania
and the Hungarian tyrants — A Roumanian National
party.

246-250

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 15

PA0E3

CHAPTER XXXIII 251-255

Roumania's object in the war — Hvingary's attempt to
Magyarise Transylvania — Sympathy of the Mother-
land— " Awake, Roumania ! " — The new boundaries
of Roumania — Room for her people — ^The Little
Entente — Safeguarding the peace of Europe.

TWENTY YEARS IN
ROUMANIA

CHAPTER I

A real enterprise — The glamour of the Arabian Nights — Off to an
unknown country — Light on the way — A friend at Court — I
figure as a Nihilist — The Hungarian " express " — Wild men
in sheep -skins — An intruder routed — Bucarest, a dreadful town
— Adventvires by flood and street — A warm reception.

WHEN I announced my intention of going to
Roumania, I occasioned real consternation
amongst my friends. " Why, you must be quite
mad to think of going so far away to a country of
which nobody knows anything at all ! " was one
of the mildest criticisms of my project.

The year was 1889— more than thirty years ago ;
and thirty years is not only a long period in the life
of an individual, but it may make momentous
changes in the story of a nation or of a country.

I will confess that it did seem a rash undertaking

for a girl to venture so far afield into the unknown ;

but the enterprise had no terrors for me. I was

already an accomplished traveller. I had

" finished " at Magdeburg, visited Paris and Brussels,

and spent more than a year in Vienna. I had been

used to speaking French and German rather than

English for several years ; and, for the rest, I was an

Irish girl, and timidity is not a fault which I have

ever heard charged against the people of my

17 2

18 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

country. Then, again, I did know something about
Roumania, if my friends did not. It was very Httle
indeed, I grant, but it was enough to make me anxious
to learn more. Some Viennese acquaintances of
mine had visited Bucarest, and from them I had
gained an alluring impression of a wonderful race of
people, rich in the primitive virtues, dwelling in a
charming country and amidst scenes of Oriental
luxury. I will frankly admit that the glamour of
the Arabian Nights was over all my thoughts and
ideas about Roumania. Perhaps I was not so very
far astray.

My intention was to estabhsh myself in Bucarest
in an independent way as a teacher of languages. I
felt that I was pretty well equipped for the work, and
I had been told that there was ample scope for my
endeavour, and that I would find the remuneration
far more liberal than nearer home.

This was all very encouraging, but with the canni-
ness becoming an Ulsterwoman I determined to
secure a definite engagement, so that I might find a
footing in the country. I was at this time at home
in Ireland, and I wrote to the best-known agencies
in London. None of them could help me. They all
seemed to have the haziest kind of ideas about
Roumania. One agent wrote to say that they only
covered Europe in their work ! Even at that time
it was against my will that I was obliged to apply to
Germany, but in the event it was a Dresden agency
which procured for me an appointment at a private
school in Bucarest.

It was necessary for me to proceed to Dresden in
order to conclude the agreement, and I was aston-
ished to find that I could obtain no information

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 19

there as to how I should get to Roumania, Even
at the hotel I was informed that there was no train
communication with the remote place, and that I
should be obliged to journey down the Danube.
Indeed, the information given me was so vague and
contradictory that I began to feel just a trifle
nervous. Once started, however, nothing short of
some convulsion of nature on my line of route (when
discovered) could have deterred me. Besides, I
looked for help in Vienna, whither I was bound in
response to an invitation from a family with whom
I had resided for some time as governess. The
family — that of Colonel von Walzel — remained my
lifelong friends, and many long and happy visits
have I paid them during the years that have passed
since then. Let me just say here that Austrians
are not Germans ; I shall offer evidence of this
further on. Colonel von Walzel was an important
official of the Court Chamberlain's Department
under Prince Hohenlohe, and I may remark in
passing that on my innumerable journeys to and
fro during these long years, I have never paid a
halfpenny for railway fare when passing through
Austrian territory. That is an advantage of having
— as I very literally had — a friend at Court, for
Colonel von Walzel always provided me with a
first-class pass. I had many other privileges in
Vienna, not the least of which was a box at the opera
whenever I wanted one. It has nothing to do with
my present story, but perhaps it might be well for
me to refer here to a matter which might, con-
ceivably, sometime occasion a misunderstanding.
Colonel von Walzel's brother is a well-known
playwright, and was always a very good friend of

20 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

mine. In one of his dramas, popular quite recently,
there figures a Russian Nihilist Princess who desires
to pass as an Englishwoman. The author may have
meant to pay me a compliment or he may simply
have had little acquaintance with English nomen-
clature, but at any rate he made his Princess call
herself " Maude Parkinson," and I have been told
that my poor name has become quite familiar
amongst the play-loving Viennese as typifying a
certain kind of feminine subtlety which I cannot
claim to possess.

Furnished with full instructions (and a free pass
to the confines of Austro-Hungarian territory), I
resumed my journey eastward. Travelling through
Hungary is never very pleasant or interesting, and I
soon grew tired of it, though my pass procured for
me great deference everywhere. It became very
monotonous on that long journey, gazing out of a
window at a never-changing panorama of maize
flats, with here and there a field of other grain. The
wayside stations brought some relief, for here there
were crowds of wild-looking unkempt natives dancing
and singing to the invariable accompaniment of a
mouth organ ! These rude scenes led me to think
that I was in truth leaving civilisation behind.

The train — which was an express from Vienna —
slackened its pace so much after leaving Budapest
that I mortally offended the guard by asking him
in all good faith if it were a slow train. He replied
in a very dignified manner, " Why, of course it is an
express; we have travelled — so many — kilometres
since leaving Budapest." I was not convinced of
the speed of the train, as it is a well-known fact that
Hungarian trains are the slowest in Europe. I have

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 21

heard that a Hne running out of London contests this
claim, but I have not sufficient information on the
subject to institute a comparison.

When we reached the Roumanian frontier I
really became a little alarmed for the first time. It
was in the early hours of the morning, when one's
courage is at zero, and the crowds of strange-
looking beings, clad in woolly sheep-skins, which
thronged the station, appeared to me like denizens
of another or an earlier world. Nevertheless, I was
at once reminded of the old Irish jingle about Bryan
O'Lynn, who'd " no breeches to wear, so he bought
a sheep's skin to make him a pair."

Our luggage was examined here, and afterwards
I returned to the ladies' compartment in which I
had been travelling, and which I shared with
another. I fell asleep again, but just before dawn
some slight noise disturbed me, and I opened my
eyes to find a man seated in a corner of the carriage
and calmly regarding us. I opened my mouth
almost as soon as my eyes, and indignantly informed
him in English, French, and German that he was in a
ladies' carriage, and had better get out of it as quickly
as ever he could. Which language it was that
frightened him I cannot tell ; it may have been the
tone of my address, but at any rate he fairly bolted.
We entered Bucarest by Verciorova, and my first
impressions were disheartening. There was nothing
about the surrounding country to prepossess me in
its favour. It was flat and uninteresting, just like
Hungary. The peasants who swarmed about were
wild-looking and very dirty. My fellow-passenger
had strongly advised me to go straight to the
British Minister and present my credentials, and I

22 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

had a good mind to follow her advice. However, I
did not immediately do so.

There had been some mistake about the hour of
my arrival, and so no one met me at the station. I
procured a carriage, and handed the address to the
driver.

" What a dreadful town ! " I thought, as I was
driven at a speed reminiscent of the Dublin jarvey
through narrow, atrociously paved streets, filled —
both as to road and footway — with half-melted
snow. The month was February, and when I
arrived the climatic conditions were at their worst,
which was pretty bad in Bucarest. Some of the
streets were quite unpaved ; few, apparently, had
any system of drainage, for extensive floods fre-
quently rendered the roadway impassable for foot
passengers.

Later on I heard the story of an adventure which
befell an English lady — also a teacher — just before
my arrival. She had been giving lessons in a Jewish
family who were reluctant payers, and had been
obliged to demand her money with some firmness.
Out of spite they paid her the amount — a con-
siderable sum — in copper coins ! which taxed the
resources of an unusually large bag. Confronted
with a street in flood, and hampered by her un-
wieldy wealth, she found herself at a twilight hour
in an awkward predicament. Not a carriage was in
sight. She appealed to a sturdy youth who was
passing, and offered him a reward if he would carry
her across the street. The boy promptly picked
her up (she was a little woman), bag and all, but in
mid-stream — or street — she attempted to change her
bag from one hand to the other. The swinging

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 23

weight robbed the boy of his centre of gravity, and
he and his fair burden fell floundering in the flood.
He fished her out again and carried her ashore before
searching for the treasure. This, however, he was
fortunate enough to recover, and honest enough to
return, receiving an ample reward for his pains.

My first impression of the school was not such as
to cure me of the slight feeling of homesickness
which I had now begun to experience. My arrival
did not coincide with any meal-time— it was about
11 a.m. ; and, as they have no idea of providing
a decent repast at any unscheduled hour, I was
shown into a workhouse-looking apartment with
white bare walls and regaled with shocking bad
coffee and a hunk of dry bread.

There was no lack of warmth, however, in Madame

's reception of me. She embraced me most

effusively, and kissed me on both cheeks. Indeed,
I may say at once that no matter what causes
for complaint I may later on have found at this
school, I always met with great kindness from the
principal. This, however, was only in accordance
with all my later experiences, as she was a native of
Roumania.

The school was a large one, of about four hundred
pupils, and there was a large staff of teachers of all
nationalities. I refer to some of my experiences
in a later chapter of this book.

Such was the manner of my coming to Bucarest ;
and how little I imagined then that I should grow
to love the country and its people, and to make my
home amongst them for so many years of my life !

CHAPTER II

Hazy ideas about Roumania — " Bucarest, Turkey " — A letter for
Sinaia goes to Simla — The physical features of the country —
Its mineral wealth — The chief towns — The Cernavoda Bridge —
The railways and the scenery through which they pass — The
mighty Danube — The Iron Gates.

IN the preceding chapter I have given some indi-
cation of how Httle was known of Roumania
a quarter of a century ago, but it is still more
astonishing to find in these days of enlightenment
what hazy ideas people in this country have about
the land and its inhabitants.

I received a letter once addressed to " Bucarest,
Turkey." Staying for a few weeks one summer at
Sinaia, a letter was sent to me from England
addressed simply " Sinaia." When it reached me
some months later, the envelope was a curiosity.
I still keep it as a proof of the perseverance of post-
office officials. It bears the post-marks of Italy,
Switzerland, Turkey — and, all these failing, it had
been despatched to Simla !

I cannot say that when at school I found geo-
graphy the fascinating study which it really is ;
but that was due to the method of teaching. There
was no attempt made by the instructor to capture
the youthful imagination ; the teacher had never
ventured abroad, and was destitute of the stimulus
which travel gives.

24

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 25

During my long residence I visited most parts of
Rouniania, some of them over and over again, and
I think I may justly claim to have a very good
knowledge of the country, of its physical features,
its resources, and all the other information which
one may find set forth, for the most part unin-
terestingly, in the geography books. It is only
right that our ideas of Roumania should now assume
more definite and reliable shape, and I think that
interest is at last being awakened regarding our
brave little ally and all concerning her. I sincerely
hope to interest my readers in the Roumanian
people, and — though I am aware that I run a risk
of becoming a little tedious — I feel it my duty to
supply at the outset a slight sketch of the country
which they inhabit.

The area of Roumania before the war was about
equal to that of England, but its population was
less than that of London.

At that time the northern boundaries were
Transylvania, Bukowina, and Bessarabia, whilst it
was bounded on the west by Serbia.

Now Transylvania has been absorbed, and the
northern boundaries of Roumania are formed by
the Dniester and the frontiers of Galicia and
Czecho-Slovakia. The western boundaries are
Hungary and Jugo-Slavia.

Roumania is now, as hitherto, bounded on the
east by the Black Sea and on the south by Bulgaria.

The rivers, of which there are several, take their
rise in the Carpathians, and after traversing the
country empty themselves into the Danube. These
rivers are mostly very shallow, and half dry during
the summer. Very few of them are navigable —

26 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

indeed, only the Pruth, the Bistritza, and the
mighty Danube, — of which more hereafter. The
rivers are well stocked with many varieties of fish,
the sturgeon, carp, salmon, pike, and perch being
the most important. I think I have sampled every
kind of fish these waters have to offer, and I may
here mention the Roumanian grey caviar, which is
coarse-grained, when contrasted with Russian
caviar, but to my mind, when properly prepared,
is much more delicious. It has a peculiar, soft,
pleasant flavour which is entirely lacking in the
Russian.

The scenery in the Carpathians is very beautiful
and at many points even imposing ; the principal
peaks are the Omul, Verful co dor, and the Caraiman.

Rough mountain ponies are used in summer for
the ascent of these peaks. These animals are strong
and wiry, but their equipment is anything but
comfortable. The peasants, from whom they are
hired, provide nothing for the tourists but rough
wooden saddles, therefore rugs, cushions, etc., have
to be provided if one wishes to ride in comfort.

On the slopes of the Carpathians there are rocks
composed of sandstone, limestone, and even marble
of various colours. The white variety is said to
rival the famous Carrara marble.

Roumania, by the way, is rich in minerals, but it
is regrettable that so few are exploited. Copper,
lead, salt, coal, petroleum, lignite form some of
the mineral wealth of the country. Even gold has
been found so far back as in the time of Turkish
rule.

At present only petroleum, salt, and lignite are
worked. Lignite (a mineral coal retaining the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 27

texture of the wood from which it is formed) is used,
together with natural wood, on the railways instead
of coal. It is decidedly advantageous for the
traveller, as it burns with a perfectly white smoke
and does away with all the grit and dust so notice-
able in Hungarian trains.

Roumania possesses very few lakes, the most
important being Balta Alba, which is near the
town of Ramnic cu Serat. It has great mineral
properties, and numbers of people flock to it every
summer, as its waters are said to cure rheumatism
and scrofula as well as other diseases. Mineral
springs are abundant. Besides iodine, sulphur, and
mud baths there are the State-supported Spas of
Govora and Caliman-eshti, situated among some of
the finest Carpathian scenery. Tekir Ghiol, near
Constantza, of Turkish origin, as its name implies,
and Neamtz, are favourite resorts of invalids from
all parts, attracted thereto by the far-famed cura-
tive properties of their waters. It is unfortunate
that accommodation at these springs is still rather
primitive, although the prices are exorbitant.

It is to be hoped that with time the entire mineral
wealth of Roumania may be exploited, and thus
considerably contribute to the prosperity of the
country.

Roumania has not many towns of importance.
After the capital (with a population of 200,000) one
need only mention Jassy, Craiova, Slatina, Galatz,
and Braila— the last two named being ports on
the Danube, which do a considerable trade in grain.
The ports on the Black Sea are Sulina, where an
English gunboat belonging to the European Com-
mission was always stationed, and Constantza,

28 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

which of late years has direct communication with
Constantinople.

Before the building of the bridge over the Danube
at Cernavoda— which, by the way, is eleven miles
long, as a great tract of marshy land has also to be
traversed, travellers from Roumania bound for
Constantinople were obliged to cross the river to
Rustchuk and then embark from Varna, a Bulgarian
port. Now, fortunately, all that is changed, greatly to
the advantage of travellers, as Roumanian steamers
are much more comfortable than the Bulgarian.

There were formerly only two main lines of rail-
way by which one could leave Roumania, travelling
west. One of these is via Verciorova, and runs
parallel with the Danube for a considerable distance,
passing on its way Pressburg, the old capital of
Hungary, where are still to be seen on an eminence
the ruins of the castle once inhabited by Maria
Theresa. The other route, and, by the way, the
cheaper, is in my opinion much more interesting.

Starting from Bucarest, we have a couple of
hours' run, after which begins the ascent of the
valley of the Prahova. Passing Campina, the
region of the oilfields, which is not so very agree-
able for the olfactory nerves, a halt is made for a
few minutes at lovely Sinaia, of which I have much
to say hereafter.

The train now toils along more slowly, as the
ascent becomes more difficult. Passing Busteni,
overshadowed by the towering peak of the Carai-
man, we reach Poiana Tzapului, at which station
we descend to visit the beautiful cascade in the
neighbourhood. Azuga is next reached, where we
have the opportunity of drinking a glass of the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 29

excellent Azuga beer. Finally, a run of another
half hour brings us to the top of the Pass at Predeal.
The station is so arranged that half is in Roumanian
territory and half in Hungarian.

At Predeal we are, unhappily, obliged to change
trains — unhappily, I say, as Hungarian trains are
so dirty and gritty from coal-dust, and the guards
of the trains are always uncivil. By the way, I
wonder why Hungarian guards as a rule wear black
kid gloves. It is strange, but so it is.

When passports had been examined and stamped
with the Imperial Austro-Hungarian seal, and
luggage searched for anything contraband,
passengers were allowed by the sentry to pass
on to the Hungarian part of the platform, but on
no pretext whatever might one return to the
Roumanian section. As the sole restaurant in
the place is on Roumanian soil, this arrangement
was extremely awkward for unwary passengers
travelling that way for the first time.

Leaving Predeal, the descent of the Tomos Pass
is begun, through lovely scenery which is described
further on. The line continues through Hungary,
by way of Transylvania, till it finally arrives at
Budapest, where travellers change again into trains
travelling north, west, or south.

There have been changes since the time of which
I write, and now the Simplon express leaves Bucarest
and proceeds through Agram in Croatia to Trieste,
Vienna, Milan, Lausanne, and Paris.

The Danube

The Danube, that mighty river so often spoken of
as " The Blue Danube," proves disappointing in

30 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

some parts. First of all, it is never blue, but of a
muddy grey colour, and then at times it flows
through such flat country that the scenery is most
depressing. The numerous floating water-mills that
are anchored near the banks do not greatly add to
the picturesqueness of the scene. They are employed
to grind maize and other grain, and the river supplies
the motive power.

On the other hand, the scenery of the Danube
near the " Iron Gates " and the Kazan Pass cannot
be surpassed. It is among the finest scenery in
Europe. I have travelled on the Danube from
Vienna to Giurgiu, and vice versa, several times,
therefore am fairly well acquainted with it.

The " Iron Gates " are simply rocks in the bed
of the river, in some places just appearing above
the surface of the water and in others just visible
below. There is a continual swirling and eddying
of the water round these obstructions, and they
were formerly very dangerous to shipping.

The first time I travelled down from Vienna, the
passengers were obliged at Orsova to leave the large
steamer and change into quite a small one, which
then carefully threaded its way among the danger-
ous rocks of the " Iron Gates." Everyone was
greatly interested in the wonderful scenery through
which we were passing, and the interest was not
unmixed with a thrill of fear as we listened to the
uncanny tales of former accidents that had occurred
just at that spot. The raconteur was a Hungarian,
who seemed delighted with the effect he produced.
All breathed more freely on leaving the danger-zone
and embarking again in one of the larger steamers
which awaited us.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 31

The terrors of the " Iron Gates " are, happily, no
longer existent, as a great extent of rock was blown
up by dynamite some years ago. As the Danube
flows through many countries, the consent or
approval of each to this proceeding had to be ob-
tained. The great engineering feat was made an
occasion of much ceremony, attended by the
Emperor of Austria and the Kings of Roumania
and Serbia, as well as by members of the Danube
Commission. A channel has now been made
which stretches for a considerable distance, so
that no interruption of the river traffic is to be
feared. One hopes that in time the channel may
be extended so as to stretch from Vienna to the
Black Sea.

Before leaving the scene of the " Iron Gates " I
may just shortly describe how they appear under
present conditions. As the steamer approaches the
Kazan Pass (where what remains of the " Iron
Gates " is still to be seen) the river gradually con-
tracts, till it is only about 100 yards in width. One
gazes with awe at the steep rocks on each side of
the Pass, rocks which rise to the height of 1000 feet
or more and which enclose the river in such a manner
that they give one the impression of being on a lake
rather than a river. As we continue our way
through the Pass we notice at some distance the
water foaming and eddying round a mass of sub-
merged rock, and at one particular spot the shining
line of breakers seems to lie so directly in our path
that it appears almost impossible to avoid it. How-
ever, the steamer keeps steadily on its way through
the channel cut for it, and although at times it
appears to be heading for the wall of rock, as if

32 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

there were really no outlet from the Pass, still, by
many devious turns and twists, we get safely
through and out into the wider reaches of the
river.

What a wonderful river the Danube is ! Taking
its rise, it is said, in the courtyard of a gentleman's
residence in Germany, it continues its course through
many countries, absorbing by the way their numerous
tributaries, till it finally empties itself into the Black
Sea by three mouths. Not only is it remarkable
for its manifold windings, but also for the contrac-
tion and expansion of its waters. It is probably at
its narrowest in the Kazan Pass, where, as I have
already said, it contracts to a width of about 100
yards; whilst in some parts, and noticeably before
reaching Belgrade, it has a width of between two
and three miles. The Rhine is a beautiful river, but
its scenery cannot be compared to that of the
Danube ; it is by no means so grand or impressive.
As for the Elbe, that river has the appearance
of a canal when one visits it after viewing the
Danube.

From Budapest to Giurgiu is the most interesting
part of the river. The scenery is not always grand
or even beautiful, but it is interesting, passing as it
does through the countries of Hungary, Servia, and
Bulgaria, till it finally reaches Roumania. The
most uninteresting stretch is that between Buda-
pest and Vienna, where the river flows between
perfectly flat banks, nothing to be seen on either
side, no villages, no people, only masses of willows
stretching for miles, causing a most depressing
effect.

The river is ice-bound for nearly three months,

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 33

but although I have often wished to skate across to
Rustchuk on the Bulgarian side, the difficulties have
always proved insuperable, as the frozen ridges caused
by the wavelets and eddies of the current present
anything but a smooth surface to the skater.

CHAPTER III

The Government of Roumania — The Parliament — Lively elections
— The batiusi and their big sticks — Military picnics at election
times — " General Post " after an election — Party handwriting
— Natural selection circumscribed for postal officials — The army
— A soldier's life not always a happy one — Military marketers,
nurses, and spring -cleaners — The accession celebrations — On
parade — The opposition goes into mourning and enjoys a happy
day — Threatening demonstrations which end happily — A gallant
army — If stiff on parade, the Roumanian soldier is " one of
the best."

THE Government of Roumania is a limited
monarchy, the present King, Ferdinand, being
the nephew of the late King Carol. The Salic law
is in force, and so no woman may ascend the throne.
In default of a male heir, a king may be chosen
amongst the royal families of Western Europe.

The Parliament consists of the Senate and the
Chamber of Deputies, which latter corresponds to
our House of Commons. The pay of a cabinet
minister in pre-war times was about 30,000 francs
(£1200), and the Deputies are also remunerated for
their services to the extent of 20 francs a day
while Parliament is sitting. The constituency is
divided into four groups or " colleges," as they are
called.

The first college consists of citizens having an
income of over £150. The second college is com-
posed of those with an income ranging from £50 to

34

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 35

£150. The third includes tradespeople, who pay
the State from £4 upwards annually. The fourth
college comprises everyone who pays taxes, however
small they may be. The Senate is elected by the
first two colleges for a period of eight years, the
Deputies by all four colleges for a term of four
years.

The chief qualification of a Senator is the pos-
session of an income of £400 to £500 a year. He
must also be over forty years of age. Deputies
must be over twenty-five, must be Roumanians
either by birth or naturalisation, and must live in
Roumania.

The constitution of Roumania has been compiled
with great regard both to justice and the liberties
of the people.

The Greek Church is the State Church, but,
although the Jews are under many disabilities, there
is freedom of worship for all sects. Freedom of
speech is permitted, and no restraint is placed on
public meetings.

There is also complete liberty of the press (which
is, unfortunately, too often abused). Capital punish-
ment has been abolished except under martial law.
The property of the peasantry is inviolable. Primary
instruction is gratuitous and compulsory. Such
are some of the principal provisions of the
constitution.

It is always very amusing when a general election
takes place. Both Conservatives and Liberals are
fully occupied in canvassing beforehand, and
meetings are everywhere in full swing. When the
election day dawns, then the fun begins. Polling
booths are established in different parts of the town.

36 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

and they are open as early as 7 a.m. That elector
is wise who goes early to record his vote. Inside
the polling station there is, besides the recording
official, an agent for each side. Conservative and
Liberal, who narrowly scrutinises each voter as he
appears, and sees to it that he records his vote
properly. Trickery is very often practised, so it
behoves each one to be on the alert. By some
means or other, names of people long dead are
inserted in the register, and, as a man remarked in
my hearing at one election, " In my father's life-
time he never had a vote, but now he is dead they
are giving him one."

As has been said, it is well to record one's vote in
good time — that is, if one wishes to avoid the batiusi.
Electioneering agents in Roumania do not always
rely upon the suaviter in modo, but freely adopt the
fortiter in re. They employ gangs of men (known
as batiusi) who, armed with big sticks, are posted
at the entrances to the polling booths, frankly for
the purpose of intimidating those who refuse to
vote as their party wishes. Under such circum-
stances it is not to be wondered at if feeling some-
times runs very high and the services of the
military have to be called upon. In such a case
the troops line up before the polling booths, and
every elector who arrives carrying a stick, no
matter how small or innocent-looking, is gravely
relieved of it before entering. If matters assume a
very threatening aspect and it is impossible for the
troops to return to barracks for the mid-day meal,
large cauldrons of soup are brought down to them.
This is served out together with large pieces of
bread, and the soldiers seem rather to enjoy the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 37

little break in their monotonous life, if it does not
include the breaking of heads.

After the election, when the new Government is
duly installed in office, a clearance of the former
officials takes place. One and all are changed, even
to the man who runs to the nearest cafe for the
cup of afternoon coffee. The incoming ministers
and members of Parliament have all a crowd of
proteges, who also want their good time as
long as Parliament lasts. It is curious then on
entering the post office, the custom house, or
any other public building, to find there entirely
new faces. It reminds one of the game of
"General Post."

Every change of Government is a signal for
reform. Sometimes it is merely reform in the
literal sense of the word, as, for example, when an
incoming Government makes an attack upon the
caligraphy taught and practised in the schools. If
the Liberals have adopted a sloping style of writing,
Conservatives upon assuming power are sure to
insist upon the re-formation of the characters and
the setting of them up in a perpendicular position.
It is the party idea in excelsis, and irresistibly
recalls the difference of opinion of the Big-Endians
and the Little-Endians in Gulliver^s Travels as to
which end of the egg should be broken.

Mentioning the post office just now reminds me
of one strange rule in force in that department.
Post-office employees must only marry members
of the opposite sex who are also engaged in the
post office. I could scarcely credit this when I
heard it, but a prominent official of the post office
assured me that it was the case.

38 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

The Army

At the time of the accession of Prince Carol the
army consisted of raw levies unprovided with
uniforms and in many cases armed only with pikes
and sabres. Indeed, so unsoldierlike was their
appearance that they were referred to as a " ragged
band of gipsies." Prince Carol (he was not crowned
king until after the battle of Plevna) found not
only that the army was wholly untrained, but that
in numbers also it was totally inadequate.

The sovereign immediately set to work to bring
his forces up to date. Universal compulsory
service was at once introduced. German instructors
were brought into the country, and it is from this
time that the story of the organisation of the
Roumanian army begins. The result has shown
what can be done, if only the right material is to
hand.

The Roumanian soldier is a splendid fighting unit,
his superb daring and dash carry him through the
most difficult places. In the numerous campaigns
of later years in which the Roumanian army has
been engaged, the courage and admirable soldierly
qualities of the men have been amply shown.

That King Carol was proud of his army, no one
could doubt who watched his face during the march
past of the troops every 10th of May. He rejoiced
in the fact that it was owing to his own exertions
that the army was maintained in such a high state
of efficiency. The standing army when Roumania
entered the Great War had a strength of 600,000 to
700,000 men, but with the reserves included a
miUion trained men could be counted upon.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 39

The infantry were armed with German rifles —
MannHeher, I bcHeve; and the heavy guns used
were from Krupp's. Those presented to the army
some years ago by King Carol, to which I have
elsewhere made reference, were from the same
source. However, after the beginning of the war
heavy orders for munitions were placed with Japan.
An excellent medical service was organised, com-
posed of skilled surgeons and a highly efficient
staff.

General Averescu, who was first in command, is a
fine strategist and a born leader of men. It is to
be regretted that party politics had kept him absent
for a time from a sphere of activity just when he
should have been well to the front. As a follower
of Take Jonescu he was looked on by the Liberals
with disfavour, and not given any high command ;
but immediately war broke out they were con-
strained to place him in the post for which he was
so well fitted. The position of Commander-in-
Chief of the army is, as everyone is aware, filled by
King Ferdinand.

As in all Continental countries, there is universal
military service in Roumania. All males are re-
quired to present themselves for military service at
any period they may choose between the ages of
eighteen and twenty-one. Formerly the duration
of service was one year. It was later reduced to
six months. Young fellows of the better class are
required to supply their own uniforms, and if they
elect to enter a cavalry regiment they must provide
their own horses.

Exemptions are only granted in cases of physical
disablement, and it has sometimes occurred that a

40 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

peasant has cut off a couple of fingers so that he
may be disqualified. It is no wonder that such
things will happen, as the lot of the young peasants
in garrison is not always enviable. They are often
badly clothed and badly fed, and their duties are
manifold. Of course they are liable to be called
upon to act as officers' servants, a lieutenant
having the right to one soldier's services, and a
captain two. But such service is not by any
means understood in Roumania as it is in England.
In the former country the soldier servant has not
only to look after his master, but also to do all the
household work. He goes to market and buys the
provisions for the day, takes the children to school,
and performs the duties of a maid- of- all- work. It is
even a common occurrence for a lady living next
door to an officer's family (when she is overwhelmed
with work, such as spring cleaning) to borrow the
soldier for the day !

The Roumanian soldier on parade does not cut a
good figure. He has not the free, swinging step of
our own soldiers. Both officers and men march
very stiffly, and have a somewhat wooden appear-
ance.

During the lifetime of the late King Carol there
was always a parade on the 10th May (old style),
the date of his accession to the throne. As the
troops marched past the royal box, one received an
impression that if a soldier in any one of the ranks
should make a false step it would cause a cata-
strophe— the whole row would fall one after another,
just like wooden soldiers.

Bucarest, by the way, is very gay on the 10th
May, the Roumanian colours — red, blue, and yellow —

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 41

are to be seen everywhere. Triumphal arches span
the principal street, and pavilions are erected for
the royal family, the members of the diplomatic
corps, and the principal officials of state.

In King Carol's time a Te Deum was always sung
in the Metropole (cathedral) at the beginning of the
day. King Carol and Prince Ferdinand then used
to ride with their respective suites from the church
to the boulevard where the march past took place.
One day the Prince's horse behaved very badly, and
threw its rider as he was leading his regiment past
the royal box. The accident caused a great sen-
sation, but fortunately the Prince was not much
injured.

After the parade the day was given up to amuse-
ments, and in the evening the town was brilliantly
illuminated. The illuminations were really very
fine, and did credit to the people who carried them
out. It did not always happen that everyone was
contented and amiable on these occasions, as very
often that day was chosen by the opposition to
make demonstrations. Newspapers with a deep
black border round them were sold openly in the
streets. This was meant as an indication of sorrow
at having a German king to rule over Roumania.
If the opposition could succeed in exciting the
populace to carry out a demonstration against the
King and the Government of the day they were
happy, and could retire to bed in a much pleasanter
frame of mind.

The operations of the opposition are generally a
source of amusement. If anything happens in
Parliament to raise their ire, they immediately hold
meetings to protest. After the meetings a pro-

42 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

cession is formed, the object being to proceed to the
palace and lay their grievances before the King.
As, however, Roumanians never can keep silent,
their plans are always known beforehand, so when
they arrive within a certain distance of the palace
they find all the approaches barred by the police.
A parley takes place, great excitement prevails for
five minutes, and then all quietly disperse.

If it is thought that the police will not be able to
cope with the disturbance, the soldiers are called out.
They line up along the principal streets with guns
ready (one wonders if they are loaded). Officers
on horseback dash up and down giving orders, and
there is great excitement. Vague rumours are
afloat, and one wonders what is going to happen.
It all looks very serious, but as time goes on it
becomes known that the demonstrators have gone
another way, and somehow one feels that the
soldiers have been badly treated. After standing
on guard in the street for hours it must be dis-
appointing that nothing happens and they must
quietly return to barracks.

Notwithstanding his stiffness the Roumanian
soldier is a gallant fighter — one of the best, and
indeed the army was brought to a state of great
proficiency by the late King. He himself was a born
soldier, and led his men gallantly against their old
oppressors the Turks when the battle of Plevna
was won.

The Roumanian national anthem is a fine martial
air and was composed by Eduard Hiibsch. He,
although of German birth, was a naturalised
Roumanian long resident in the country, and died
some years ago at Sinaia.

CHAPTER IV

The religion of Roumania — The head of the Church must be a monk,
and therefore a ceUbate — The priests are of the peasant class,
unlearned and little raspected — A priest's monthly rounds —
Prayers for a girl's marriage — St Demetre the patron saint
of Bucarest — His vocation as a rain-maker — He is brought out
when the priests see the rain coming — Roumanian chvu-ches —
The legend of Curtea d'Argesh — The well of Manole's wife's
tears — Easter customs — The Roumanian monasteries : dens for
lazy people — A wonderful grotto — The convents — Princess
Marie as a nun.

ROUMANIANS, as everybody knows, belong to
the Greek Church. There are no divisions
in the orthodox rehgion as there are, unhappily, in
our own, and complete freedom of worship is allowed
to all foreigners in the country. The forms and
ceremonies of the Greek Church resemble very closely
those of the Roman Catholic. Ikons (or holy pic-
tures) hang in all the churches as well as in private
houses, and are kissed by the faithful whenever a
prayer is said. The sign of the cross is also univer-
sal ; it is always made when one passes a church.

It is rather amusing to watch the Olteni (the equi-
valent of the London coster) with the vegetables
crossing himself most devoutly in passing a church,
well knowing that he will cheat you immediately
afterwards if you give him the chance. However,
he does not look upon his little dodges as sins, he
simply prides himself upon his cleverness in getting

the better of you.

43

44 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

The head of the Greek Church is always chosen
from amongst the monks. The monks are vowed
to a hfe of cehbacy, and Hve enclosed in the numerous
monasteries scattered throughout the country. The
priests, on the contrary, are allowed to marry ; that
is, they may have one wife, but if she dies they are
not allowed to re-marry. The priests are usually of
the peasant class ; no member of even a middle- class
family would dream of entering the Church. They
have little education, and are not looked on with any
respect. The garb is rather peculiar. Over his
ordinary clothes a priest wears a long coat, with
wide hanging sleeves, reaching almost to his feet, and
on his head a sort of brimless hat made of red, purple
or black velvet, according to the wearer's status in
the Church.

As a priest is not allowed to cut his hair after
taking orders, he is obliged to wear it plaited like a
Chinaman's pigtail. He seems to be rather ashamed
of this distinction, however, as the queue is always
stuffed under the collar of the coat.

On the first day of the month every priest goes
round his own parish with an acolyte carrying in-
cense. Every house is entered in order to bless it
for the coming month, prayers are said and incense
waved in every room. Only the room of the
English or French governess is left out, as she is
a heretic.

Should a young girl find it difficult to meet with a
suitable husband, the priest, at the special request
of her parents, proceeds to her room and remains
there for some time reciting prayers specially
arranged for such an occasion, the end in view
being marriage for the girl.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 45

The patron saint of Bucarest is St Demctre —
his mummy, enclosed in a silver casket, hes in the
church named after him. On his " name-day "
special services are held. The silver casket con-
taining the holy remains is placed outside the church,
and as all Bucarest is present on that day, everyone
who passes by, and feels so disposed, may kiss the
hand of what was once St Demetre. The saint is
supposed to have great influence over the weather.
If a drought continues too long, then Demetre is
appealed to. He is carried round the town in great
state, surrounded by numbers of attendant priests,
banners flying and music playing.

It has sometimes happened that the rain has come
down like a deluge before St Demetre could be
brought under shelter again. Then great is the
jubilation, and the gratitude to him for what he has
done is unbounded. But from private observations
that I have made, my opinion is that the wary priests
wait till they see a little cloud like a man's hand in
the sky before they risk disturbing St Demetre.

The Roumanian churches are circular in form,
with no seats for the worshippers, save a very few
near the altar for some favoured individuals, or for
royalty should they favour the church with a visit.
Behind the reredos is a room for the priests, from
which they sally forth at stated intervals to take
their part in the service. No instrumental music is
allowed in the church, the vocal music being pro-
vided by men and young boys ; and very fine it is, as
Roumanians are a musical race with a well-developed
taste for what is best.

The beautiful church of Curtea d'Argesh, a couple
of hours' journey from Bucarest, is built in the

46 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Byzantine style. The exterior appears to be of
marble, but in reality it is a kind of limestone, easy to
work, which becomes quite hard on exposure to the air.
The church is square in shape, and a dome rises from
the centre. At each corner of the building is a little
tower, and the most curious feature of the structure
is that these four towers have such a twisted appear-
ance that they seem about to fall on one another.
The truth is that each tower is encircled by spiral
bands from top to bottom in such a fashion as to
make them appear to be out of the perpendicular,
although in reality it is not so.

In the interior of the church the walls are adorned
with fresco paintings and carvings. Here is also to
be seen a copy of the Gospels done in the style of the
illuminated missals of olden times, the work of the
late Queen of Roumania. Here and there in this
interesting work small sketches have been introduced
by way of illustration. Princess Marie, the little
daughter of the late Queen, figures there as an angel.
This is entirely in consonance with one's sense of
the fitness of things, but when St John is seen repre-
sented by the face of Monsieur J. K., it does give
one rather a shock.

The windows in the body of the church are very
narrow, but are arranged in such a fashion that every
corner of the building is well lighted. The orna-
mentation on the outside is both interesting and
beautiful. A large moulding encircles the church,
and above this are round shields beautifully decorated
with flowers and leaves. Little gilt birds are sus-
pended at intervals, from whose beaks hang tiny
bells. When the wind blows from a certain quarter,
agitating these little bells, the effect is very pretty.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 47

Just opposite the door of the church there is a
most beautiful Uttle building resembling a shrine.
It is composed of four pillars which support a series
of mouldings, and is crowned with a dome just like
the church itself. The tout ensemble is so beautiful
that it impresses the visitor with the idea of its being
a fairy structure.

At a short distance from the church is a monastery
at which Carmen Sylva used to stay for weeks at a
time. She was very fond of the old legends of
Roumania, and especially of that connected with
Curtea d'Argesh.

The architect and builder of the church was one
Manole, and according to the legend he was extremely
anxious to get the building completed by a certain
date. He spurred on his men to their utmost en-
deavours ; but alas ! no matter what progress they
made during the day, the work which they accom-
plished was always destroyed in the night following.
This continued to happen, and the only conclusion
to be arrived at was that evil spirits were at work
who were opposed to the building of churches.
Manole tried all sorts of plans to circumvent them,
but in vain. Finally he made a vow that, in order
to appease their wrath, he would build into the
church wall the first person to come this way on a
certain day, if the evil spirits would, on their part,
refrain from interfering with his work. The day
arrived, and Manole eagerly looked for a victim.
For hours no one passed that way, and the day
dragged slowly along. At length a figure appeared
in the distance, and Manole eagerly awaited its
approach. What was his horror, when the figure
drew nearer, to discover that it was his young wife

48 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

coming to see how the work was progressing. She
was the idol of his Hfe, but the vow must be kept.
There was no alternative. With a heavy heart he
asked his wife to stand in a niche in the wall. She,
poor thing, taking it as a joke, willingly consented.
The workmen began to build her in, she talking and
laughing meanwhile with her husband. However,
as the bricks and mortar slowly but surely began to
enclose her she became frightened. She begged
Manole to stop jesting and take her out. Despair-
ingly he turned his eyes away and spurred the men
on to fresh endeavours.

Now the wall reaches her knees, her chest, her
eyes. She becomes desperate, and screams and
implores her husband to free her. His only answer
is to urge the men to greater haste. Her cries be-
come fainter and fainter, till, some minutes after the
completion of the wall, her voice ceases for ever.

From this day forward the work on the church
went on splendidly, no interference whatever taking
place during the night. Evidently the evil spirits
were propitiated. The legend continues that Manole
kept up till the church was quite finished, then
threw himself from the roof and was killed.

Three minutes' walk from the church there is a
well of beautifully cold clear water of which every
visitor must have a draught. This well is supposed
to have originated from the tears of Manole's wife
as she was being built into the wall of the church.

Roumanians are not very diligent churchgoers,
but twice a year at least they do turn out — that is
at Easter and at Christmas. In the Greek Church
Easter is the great festival. The churches are
crowded, people kneeling on the steps and along the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 49

pavement when it is impossible to get standing room
inside. Service begins at 10.30 on Easter Eve, and
on the stroke of midnight all the gaily decorated
candles with which the people have provided them-
selves are lighted, and a procession is formed, headed
by the priests, the chief priest walking under a canopy
borne by four others. The procession wends its way
three times round the church, then the blessing is
pronounced and the congregation disperses. Who-
ever succeeds in reaching home with his or her candle
still alight will be happy through the coming year,
but woe to the unhappy one if an unlucky blast
should extinguish it. All sorts of misfortunes may
then be looked for.

It is a very pretty sight, as the different groups
are seen returning home, carefully shading the
twinkling little lights, which appear to dance hither
and thither. The churches are profusely decorated
with flowers at such times.

There are many curious ceremonies performed at
Easter, of which the following is an example. A
table is placed at the upper end of the nave and upon
it an image or picture of our Saviour. As each per-
son reaches the table he drops down and proceeds
on hands and knees under it. This is done three
times, and is supposed to be typical of the great
humility of the worshipper. This part of the service
delights the children, who sprawl under the table
with great goodwill but not apparently with any
appreciation of the significance of the ceremony.
Reverence on the part of the congregation is not one
of the features of the Greek Church services. A
good deal of talking and laughing goes on, so much
so that it is no unusual thing for a priest to stop in

50 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the middle of the service and request the people to
be silent. Even at weddings the same thing may-
be seen. The bride and groom appear to be holding
a reception rather than having a service celebrated
which is to unite them for life — or rather till such
time as they think fit to dissolve the union.

The monasteries are a great feature of social life
in Roumania. At a time when there were no hotels,
hospitality was always shown to travellers by the
monks. One could remain there for a week or two
without being under an obligation to pay anything.
At each monastery there are from twenty to thirty-
monks. Each one has a tiny apartment that he
can call his own, to which is attached a small plot
of ground. In this plot the monk grows his vege-
tables, or keeps a couple of fowls. He is allowed
about forty bani a day (4d.) from Government, and
to eke out his living he has recourse to all sorts of
devices. The favourite one is the making of certain
liqueurs which are offered for sale to any traveller
who may happen to pass. It is a great pity that
these monasteries should be allowed by Government,
as they are simply dens for lazy people. One may
imagine that with twenty monks attached to one
church the services required from each are not very
arduous, especially when the church is in a remote
district. They are expected to officiate at stated
intervals day and night, and recite prayers. That
done, the time is their own to use as they think fit.

In olden times, and more especially during the
rule of the Turk, the monasteries were often used as
places of refuge by the oppressed, or as storehouses
for their valuables. They are generally built on
very high eminences, and command a good view of

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 51

the surrounding country. One monastery in par-
ticular which I have visited is situated at such a
height in the Carpathians that in winter communica-
tion with the outside world is absolutely impossible ;
the monks are completely snowed up.

But in summer what a difference ! The monastery
is surrounded by lovely meadows, where one walks
knee-deep in grasses and most beautiful wildflowers.
Through these meadows a babbling brook winds its
way under overhanging willow branches to the
river further down.

Close to the chapel of the monastery there is a
natural grotto which is always shown to visitors.

I remember exploring it once with a party of
friends, and the uncanny sensation it gave me.
Each member of the party was provided with a
candle, and a monk acted as guide. As we passed
further and further into the grotto, we appeared to
be accompanied by a rushing river, but no river was
to be seen. The effect was weird. The thick
darkness, seeming to be rendered only more opaque
by the feeble light of the candles, surrounded us
like a pall, and we scarcely ventured to speak above
a whisper. The monks assert that there is an
underground river, but whence it starts and whither
it goes no one seems to know. The cave itself is
vast, and extends for miles under the mountains.
It is thought that it communicates with the natural
grotto at Campulung, which is very similar, and
may really be a part of it ; but this has never been
proved. No one seems to have had either the time
or the inclination to undertake such an expedition.
A Royal Geographical Society for research has not
yet been formed in Roumania.

52 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

There are numerous convents for women scattered
all over the country. The costume of the nuns is
not at all pretty. Over the dress, which is of
ordinary stuff, a long cloak is worn, and a band of
black cloth is bound round the forehead, the ends
falling in pleats at the back, completely covering
the hair. To crown all and complete the picture, a
round flat cap or hat, also black, is perched on the
top of the head.

The system of Roumanian convents differs some-
what from that of the Roman Catholic convents.
Roumanian nuns are quite free to go about and visit
friends and relatives. They are only vowed to
celibacy, and they live together in communities,
working for the poor and visiting the sick. No
branch of education is, however, undertaken by
them, as they themselves are not sufficiently in-
structed for that. Before the present Queen of
Roumania ascended the throne one of her greatest
pleasures was to stay for a few weeks at the convent
near Campulung. There she donned the garb of a
nun — such a pretty nun had never been seen before
in Roumania, — occupied herself with embroidery or
painting, and ate the ordinary fare of the inmates.
I believe a favourite sweet of hers on these occasions
was musca, made of flour, butter, and sugar, which
when cooked is completely covered with burnt
sugar. It tastes very good indeed. This convent
is situated in a very beautiful part of the country,
and the chapel belonging to it is a curiosity in its
way, having been excavated out of the solid rock.

CHAPTER V
•

Roumania's capital — A garden city — Modesty on the trams — " A
town of one street, one church, and one idea " — The Galea
Victoiie — Two hundred churches — The church of Doamna
Balash — English customs gaining headway — The houses of
Bucarest — Afternoon calls and refreshinents — The fortifications.

BUCAREST is situated on a marshy plain, a fact
accounting for the malaria which so often
attacks foreigners, as well as the inhabitants. It is
an irregularly built town on the river Dimbovitza.
When I first went there the town was very badly
paved with rough cobble-stones, and it was highly
disagreeable to go through the Galea Victorie, as the
constant rumbling of the traffic over these stones
effectually prevented any attempt at conversation.
That is all changed now since wood-paving has been
introduced.

The town is well lighted, in some streets in-
candescent lamps being used, whilst electricity is
employed on the Boulevard and the Chaussee.

The Boulevard, planted on both sides with trees,
divides the town into two parts. It is a fine wide
thoroughfare, and runs from the neighbourhood of
the Palace at Cotroceni, right up to the Galea
Mosilor, which it meets at right angles.

The best view of the town is from the hill on
which the Metropolitan Ghurch stands. Seen from

53

54 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

there it is very picturesque — the houses of the better
class standing in gardens, in some cases of a fairly
good size.

Numerous small public gardens, the largest called
Cismegiu, and the drive known as the Chaussee,
greatly contribute to the garden-like appearance
of the town.

There is a very effective tram service in Bucarest,
which was started some years ago by an English
company. At first two-deckers were used, some-
what after the fashion of our own English trams ;
but that did not suit the authorities of the town.
The idea of women climbing up to such elevated
seats shocked them to such an extent that an order
was issued forbidding the feminine use of the over-
head seats. These trams were then withdrawn, and
others of a more modest appearance and character-
istics substituted. An electric tram now runs on
the Boulevard. What a commotion there was when
it was first instituted ! People were afraid to trust
themselves on it — they feared electrocution most
probably; but by degrees that feeling of fear was
dissipated, and now the electric tram is as much
used as the other. And now, I have just learnt,
motor omnibuses have been adopted. I am glad
to have been spared that innovation.

Bucarest has been described as a town of one
street, one church, and one idea. The aphorism is
to some extent justified, for the Galea Victorie is
practically Bucarest, the Greek Church knows no
dissenters, and the prevailing idea is the spending
of money.

Galea Victorie is a very long street. It leads from
the Dimbovitza to the Ghaussee (the fashionable

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 55

afternoon resort of the Bucarestois), and it is
essentially the street. All the principal buildings,
as well as the Royal Palace, are situated in the
Galea Vietorie, and it is the daily lounge of the elite
of the town.

It is a cosmopolitan crowd that one encounters
on the Galea Vietorie : society ladies in elegant
costumes, dapper little Frenchmen belonging to
the Embassy, Roumanian officers in varied uniforms,
handsome Turks with the fez set jauntily on their
heads, Armenians with full short skirts and very
curious headgear, and many others.

Ghurches are a great feature of the town — there are,
I should think, over two hundred in Bucarest. The
Metropole is, of course, the Gathedral, where all
ceremonial services are held. St Spiridon is a fine
large building, but its beauty has been diminished
of late years owing to the fact that the beautiful
crosses and chains with which it was formerly
ornamented were found too heavy for the roof and
had to be removed. In this church many of the
fashionable weddings take place.

Of the more modern churches Doamna Balash,
founded by the Brancovan family, is decidedly the
most beautiful. It stands in a well-laid-out garden,
in which are beds of most lovely flowers that form
at the same time a fitting setting for the statue of
the foundress, Doamna Balash. The statue is
very fine, the pose of the figure extremely graceful,
whilst the drapery is also a work of art.

The interior of the church is gorgeous indeed,
quite Eastern in its rich ornamentation. The ex-
quisite reredos, the beautiful stained-glass windows,
the ornamented candelabrum that hangs in the

56 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

centre, the rich colours of the carpets that cover the
floor, combine to make a picture that cannot be
surpassed. During a service the effect is enhanced
by the splendid robes and head-dresses of the
officiating priests.

Attached to the church is a school, and also
almshouses for the aged.

The Brancovan Hospital, which is at the back of
the church and is considered amongst the best in
the town, is one of a group of four buildings which
were erected by the family Brancovan, descendants
of a reigning prince of former times.

Life in Bucarest is very agreeable, especially for
foreigners, and more particularly for the English,
who are looked up to and admired by the
Roumanians. Many of our customs have been
adopted in recent years, and English, which had long
been making headway, has gained so enormously
since the war that it will probably soon take the
place of French as the polite language of the country.
It is curious that with the better-class Roumanians
it has become more fashionable than their own
language. If one enters a drawing-room, a shop,
or even a very intimate family circle, English or
French will be heard, very seldom Roumanian —
which language is usually left to the servants.

Roumanian houses are generally built with the
side to the street, and consist of only one story,
on account of the frequent earthquakes.

On entering the house, one finds oneself in a large
vestibule sometimes lighted from above by artificial
means. This is really a vestibule, but is very often
used as a sitting-room by the family. All the other
rooms open out of this circular chamber. This is a

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 57

convenient arrangement for heating purposes, as
there is always a large stove in the vestibule, and
when the doors of the adjacent rooms are left open
an agreeable warmth pervades the house.

There is, besides, a porcelain stove in each room
for use in severe weather, as Roumanians are very-
fond of well- warmed rooms. In the vestibule coal
or coke is used, but wood in all the other rooms.

Double windows are always used in winter; but
as spring comes on the outer one is exchanged for
one of wire-netting, which allows the free passage of
air, but keeps out the flies, which are generally
troublesome.

Roumania is a breakfastless country. Some
people drink a cup of black coffee or take a " dul-
ceata," others have nothing at all till lunch-time.
Lunch and dinner are very substantial meals con-
sisting of several courses — the French cuisine being
adopted in all the better-class families.

When one pays an afternoon visit for the first
time, one is rather astonished at the form the
refreshment takes. When salutations have been
exchanged and conversation is in full swing, or
otherwise, the door opens and a maid appears with a
large tray. On it are arranged small glass plates
with a spoonful of jam on each, and a glass of water
for each person. The visitor, if a foreigner, is
generally puzzled as to what is expected of her, but
upon observing her neighbours she sees that the
spoonful of jam, " dulceata " (pronounced dul-
chatza) as it is called, is solemnly swallowed, then
washed down by a draught of cold water. One
must be careful not to do as a friend of mine did on a
first visit. Never having seen such refreshment, she

58 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

calmly mixed the spoonful of jam in the water and
valiantly swallowed the dose, to the consternation
of the Roumanians present.

Most people have heard in recent sad days of the
wonderful fortifications of Bucarest, which were
designed by a Belgian and constructed at a cost of
£4,000,000. The city was thus well protected by
outworks, which made it the largest fortified camp
in the world, with the exception of Paris.

CHAPTER VI

The land system — The Dominele or squirearchy — The simple life
of the peasants — The beginning of a revolt — A premature out-
break— The countryside in flames — King Carol's new guns first
used on his subjects — A village population exterminated —
Terror in the town — I go to church and am relieved to see
Princess Marie there — The tale of a sufferer — The priests and
schoolmasters the instigators — The peasants' subterranean
dw^ellings.

IN former times the peasants received a plot of
ground proportionate to the number of cattle
they owned, and also rights of grazing and collecting
fuel in the forests.

In 1864 a law was passed conferring on each
peasant freehold property according to the number
of oxen he possessed, the man with no cattle
receiving the minimum number of acres.

The price of the land was paid to the landlord by
the State and recovered from the peasant in a certain
number of instalments. On the whole it was not a
great boon, as the limited size of the farms, the
necessity for buying wood and paying for pas-
turage, prevented the peasants from obtaining
complete independence of the large proprietors on
whose estates they still had to work for payment in
money or in kind.

Of course a good deal of grumbling went on. The
peasant accused his Dominele of allotting to him the
worst pasture and other land on the estate. He

59

60 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

complained bitterly when, in the height of harvest,
he was obliged to leave his own crops in order to get
in those of the squire.

The peasant paid no taxes, but instead he gave
his services to the State in road-making, drainage,
etc., whenever he was called upon. The improvi-
dence of the peasants very often got them into the
hands of the Jews, who fortunately are by law
unable to become proprietors of the land.

In later years laws have been passed to improve
the position of the peasants, and the Agrarian
Reform Law has this year been considered by a
Committee of the Chamber.

Under the Expropriation Law a large area had
already been designated for distribution to the
peasants, whose ultimate well-being one may con-
fidently hope is now assured. There is still a press-
ing need for good schools in the villages.

The usual wages of a peasant was in pre-war days
one franc daily, out of which he had to provide his
food.

" Mamaliga," a kind of bread made of maize,
with a fcAV fresh onions, or a melon, constitutes the
peasant's frugal repast. Meat he rarely sees, and
as for drink, not only the peasantry, but indeed all
classes of Roumanians are remarkably abstemious.
The only drink that the peasant allows himself is
a glass of tzuica (a spirit distilled from plums)
after church on Sundays. In this mild dissipation
the village priest generally takes part, and he also
acts as mediator should a slight difference of opinion
arise, which, it must be said, very seldom occurs.

Although the peasant is by nature of an amiable,
indolent character, still on occasion he may be

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 61

aroused to a state of fury, either by brooding over
his real or fancied wrongs, or through tlie influence
of agitators. In such a state nothing is sacred to
him, and a revolt of the peasants once experienced
is not easily forgotten.

Such a revolt occurred in 1907, when even we in
Bucarest experienced a very uneasy time. The
peasants on a certain estate were in a very restless,
discontented state of mind, and this disaffection
rapidly spreading to neighbouring estates, almost
the whole of the rural population became involved
in a very serious rising. A plot was arranged to
attack the estates of the landed proprietors during
the month of July, when, as is usually the case,
they would be installed with their families in their
country residences for the summer months. Luckily
for them some premature development occurred
and the trouble began in May, so that only their
property suffered, their families being safe in
Bucarest.

Every day dreadful stories were in circulation as to
the doings of the peasantry. We were told the
most harrowing tales of how houses were being
wrecked, costly furniture burned, and even stock
destroyed. Travellers from the interior of the
country related how they saw flames rising to a
great height in all directions, as one splendid
country-house after another was burnt to the ground.
Woe betide any unpopular land agent who was
found near the scene ! In very many cases he was
thrown into the flames. Troops were despatched
into the interior to restore order ; but as most of the
soldiers are themselves of the peasant class, the
authorities had to be very careful as to where they

62 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

sent them, as in the event of finding themselves
among friends or neighbours, the probabihty was
that they would take sides with the insurgents.
This actually did happen in one district, where the
soldiers deserted their officer, leaving him to be
shot down.

A strange example of the irony of fate was shown
in the fact that some guns of a new type which
King Carol had shortly before presented to the
army were now used for the first time in shooting
down his subjects.

The most terrible incident of the revolt was
described to me by an officer who was present. A
certain village had long been known as a hotbed
of disaffection, and it was decided that an example
should be made of it. Roumanian villages consist
as a rule of one long street of simple little white-
washed cottages with outhouses in the rear, and
this particular village was of the usual character.
The artillery approached the village from opposite
quarters, and with the new guns raked the street
from end to end, practically annihilating the whole
population— men, women, and children.

The constant fear of the authorities was that the
mob in the capital might join with the peasants. A
regiment of infantry, fully equipped with all the
impedimenta of war, including some cannon and a
few ambulance wagons, was therefore paraded
through the streets at regular intervals in order
to strike awe into the hearts of the people. The
cabarets were closed at an early hour, and suspected
quarters were patrolled all night. These measures
proved effectual, and no disturbances whatever took
place in Bucarest.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 63

The townspeople, however, were very nervous,
and always ready to believe the countless reports
that were to be heard on every hand. I was staying
with some friends at the time, and my host returned
home late one evening, having made a round of
most of the shops in search of ammunition. His
quest, he told us, was fruitless ; not a single car-
tridge was to be had ; everything was sold out. Of
course this increased the anxiety that we already
felt. How often during that troubled time did I
stand at the window before retiring for the night,
straining my ears to catch any unaccustomed
sound, and fancying that I heard the noise of cannon
from the direction of the barriers !

One Sunday morning, as I was preparing for
church, my hostess entered my room with a very
grave face. She had received information from a
very reliable source that a determined attack was
to be made that day on the town. The churches
were to be attacked first, she said, therefore she
strongly advised me to stay away. The lady her-
self had decided to go, with her family, to a relative
who lived in what she thought was a safer quarter
of the town, and would there remain to watch the
course of events.

I decided that if any disturbance was really going
to take place it would be preferable for me to be
in the midst of my own countrymen, and therefore
putting the few valuables I possessed into a small
bag, I set out for church. Nothing unusual in the
demeanour of the passers-by struck me ; no air of
repressed excitement was to be remarked, and as I
approached the building where the Enghsh service
was held, any latent feeling of anxiety was com-

64 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

pletely dispelled by the sight of Princess Marie,
fresh and charming as usual, being swiftly driven to
church. I was completely convinced that nothing
was to be feared, otherwise the Princess would not
have been allowed to appear in the streets.

Once in church all fears were at an end, till aroused
again by the entrance of two shady-looking persons
of quite forbidding appearance. I then for the first
time became really frightened. Who were they ?
What could they want ? Would they throw bombs?
As a matter of fact they did nothing ; but it was
not until the conclusion of the service that I learnt
they were detectives, and their business was to
watch over the safety of Princess Marie.

The day passed very quietly, and I must say that
I felt quite superior and remarkably brave when in
the course of the evening I was rung up by my
hostess, who wished to know if all was quiet and if
she could return in safety with her family. I
telephoned at once that all was quiet, not even a
dog or cat to be seen in the street, much less any
trace of rioters.

Although we in town were spared any terrible
sights, we heard dreadful stories from those who
had suffered. A lady whom I knew happened to
be in the country with her family when the revolt
broke out. They managed to escape from their
beautiful home, and for three days and nights were
hidden by a friendly peasant in an outhouse. Here
they were obliged to subsist on the simplest fare,
fearing to show themselves ; dreading every
moment to be discovered. All around could be
heard the hoarse cries of the peasants, rising to
frenzy as their excitement grew. The glare of their

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 65

own burning home penetrated into their hiding-
place, and they eould picture to themselves the
maddened peasants dancing like so many demons
round the fire. At last, as the rioters drew off to
scenes further afield, it was considered safe to
attempt the journey to the station. What a walk
that must have been, and what a relief when finally
their goal was reached, and a train was found on
the point of starting for Bucarest ! It is true that
the journey was made with a man standing with a
loaded revolver at each carriage door, but all fear
was dismissed from their minds when they found
themselves safe and sound in the capital.

The instigators of the revolt, as was eventually
proved, w^ere the schoolmasters and the priests.
The proofs of this were overwhelming. No one
knows, and probably no one will ever know, the
number of peasants who lost their lives during the
disturbances, but that it was very large there is no
doubt whatever.

Several timid folk left the country with their
children and went to Kronstadt, just a few miles
over the border in Hungarian territory, and there
they remained till all was quiet once more.

It was rather amusing for the Roumanian families
who later on ventured to return to their estates, to
see some of the peasants parading about in garments
that had formerly belonged to them.

A remarkable feature of country life in Roumania,
which reminds us sharply that serfdom has not long
been extinct, is the curious kind of subterranean
housing provided for the labourers on many estates.
In the neighbourhood of the farm you will notice a

long ridge or mound of earth some three feet in height,

5

66 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

at one end of which is an inverted V-shaped opening
like a ship's scuttle. If you enter this " scuttle "
and descend a few steps you will find yourself in
a large underground apartment furnished with a
stove, a small table in the centre, a number of beds
— of a sort — placed round the walls, and nothing else.
My host, on the occasion of my visiting one of
these quaint dwellings on his estate, assured me that
his people preferred these " dugouts " to any other
form of dwelling, as they were cool in summer and
warm in winter. My visit was paid in the summer,
but I imagine that when the stove is alight the place
must be a bit stuffy, to say the least of it.

CHAPTER VII

Village scenes — National dances — Tlie picturesque peasant costumes
— Peasant girls who powder and paint— An idyllic scene — A
country wedding — Peasant simplicity.

WHEN staying in the country, I always took
great delight in witnessing the village scenes.
Roumanians, as I have already mentioned, are a
musical race. They also love dancing. Some of
their country-dances are very pretty. The principal
one is the " Hora," and it is danced by any number
of people to the music of a violin. A number of
young men and girls take hands and form a large
ring. They then begin a slow and stately step, the
music gradually increasing in speed, and their move-
ments also, till they become fast and furious. Music
and dance then suddenly stop. Another dance is
the " Sarba," which is danced by two people, either
men or women. They stand side by side, each with
one hand resting lightly on the other's shoulder.
Then the dance begins, and when well done it really
affords a most interesting spectacle, so varied and
intricate are the steps employed. There is far more
individual dancing in these national dances than in
ours.

On Sunday afternoons dancing on the village
green is the great amusement, and when one comes
on the company unexpectedly, and they are not too
shy to continue, it is an interesting sight. The

67

68 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUIMANIA

girls, dressed in their varied and picturesque cos-
tumes, the crimson, bkie, and gold of which flash
here and there with the movements of the wearers,
the young men clad in snowy-white garments, make
a pretty picture, backed as it is by the surrounding
foliage, and bathed in brilliant sunshine.

I must describe the dress of the young peasant,
as it is rather curious. A very tight pair of breeches
is worn, of a white thick sort of flannel, sometimes
embroidered, and sometimes simply bound with
black. The snowy shirt is adorned with a row of
thick lace, and is not tucked into the breeches, but
hangs straight down. It is, however, caught in at
the waist by a very broad leather belt (in which he
keeps what money he may have). Sandals on the
feet tied on with leather thongs, and a high cap of
sheep-skin with the woolly side out, complete the
costume of the young gallant. If he wants to be
very smart on Sunday he wears a flower behind his
ear to have in readiness for his sweetheart. If the
weather is chilly he wears a loose short jacket over
the shirt, but in winter he has a long sheep-skin coat
which covers him completely.

One would imagine that the peasants in those
remote districts would be very unsophisticated and
quite ignorant of the various little ways and means
by which the women in city life seek to enhance
their charms. This, however, is not the case. It is
quite a common thing to see the peasant girls " done
up " with powder and paint to as great an extent
as their town sisters. The complexion of the
Roumanians is rather dark, but as they prefer the
white and red of fairer races they do their best in
imitation.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 69

It is very interesting to walk through a village
on a summer evening. Most of the people are sitting
at their doors enjoying the cool air. A song is heard
in the distance, then another group takes it up, till
the music swells into quite a volume of sound as the
singers draw nearer. Sometimes a wood-fire is
burning outside the house, and round it friends and
neighbours gather, either singing or relating stories
till far into the night. As we look round on the dark
eager faces lit up by the firelight, then at the tower-
ing mountains which surround us, and the great
golden moon hanging midway in the dark sky, we
realise that we live in a beautiful world.

The little country churches are very quaint. They
are generally built in a circular form, with no seats,
just a mat on the stone floor on which the priest
stands. There is always a sort of vestibule, and in
this is the " bell," or rather gong. It is a large metal
tray, and worshippers are called to church by re-
peated strokes made on it with two stout sticks.
A boy wields these sticks, and though at the begin-
ning the strokes are slow and measured, as the hour
of service draws nearer they become quicker and
quicker till there is a regular hail of them. Then
they suddenly cease. The effect is curious and even
comical. The country priest is not at all so severe
or so reserved as his town brother. On the contrary,
if anyone of a better class visits a country church
the priest will be quite willing to enter into conversa-
tion in the intervals of the service, and he will by
no means forget to refer to the needs of the church,
the poverty of the parish, and to explain what a
godsend it would be to them to get a new altar-cloth.

Sometimes a family from Bucarest will have a

70 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

fancy to celebrate a wedding in the country. It
is a very jolly event indeed. Everyone wears
Roumanian costume, the procession goes on foot
to the little church, and after the ceremony there
is feasting and dancing till all hours.

But it is the real peasant wedding that is most
interesting. People are invited from far and near.
The visitors arrive at the church in karutza
(ox- waggons) all decorated with flowers. That of
the bride has a regular canopy over it, under which
she sits embowered in flowers of all colours.

She is accompanied to the church by her mother or
some other near relative, and given into the keeping
of the young man, who awaits her at the altar. The
service is then proceeded with, and is followed by the
" holy dance " and the exchange of rings. But I
shall never forget the shock I experienced at the
first country wedding at which I was present, when
I saw the bride meekly lift the husband's hand at
the end of the service and kiss it. One may see by
that that suffragettes have not yet propagated their
theories in Roumania.

The visitors at a country wedding do not go
empty-handed. Even on the day before the cere-
mony presents begin to arrive — very often presents
in kind, loaves and cakes of all sorts ; eggs, butter,
fruit, meat, and wine. All this is very necessary in-
deed, when there are so many to be fed, as the feast-
ing is often kept up for two or three days. One of
our maids who had been invited to a wedding told
me afterwards, " Oh, miss, it was grand ; not like
the town weddings, when you get only a glass of
wine and a bit of cake. No, indeed ; we feasted
and danced and amused ourselves for three days ! "

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 71

Generally speaking, the peasants are very ignorant,
and vnifortunately the townspeople are only too
ready to take advantage of their ignorance when
the country folk adventure among them. Seldom
having money to handle, the peasants have only a
slender knowledge of the currency of their own
country, and at one time they used to be defrauded
by the tradespeople in consequence. The currency
consists of lei and bani ; equivalent to francs and
centimes. There are no Roumanian gold coins, those
current in the country being French. The one-,
two-, and five-franc coins are of silver, as is also
the fifty-bani piece. The five-bani piece, made of
nickel, is exactly the same in size and appearance as
the silver fifty-bani piece, and the peasants, unable
to recognise the difference in the metals, were often
fleeced. Some time ago, however, the attention of
the Government was directed to the matter, and all
five-bani pieces issued since are distinguished by a
hole pierced through them.

CHAPTER VIII

Trade and commerce— The only strictly Roumanian shops belong
to Princes — No English shops, though they would be welcomed
— English catalogues unintelligible — An English firm and its
"standard " colour^ — A successful English factory — The labour
question, saints' days and names-days — German factories —
Beer taxed in the interests of wine — Sugar and cheese factories
■ — Sheep -milking — Petroleum wells in Roumania — -An influx of
Americans — Rockefeller's agent, Mr Chamberlain and his family
— How a man of gipsy origin " struck oil " and became a
millionaire — Paper-mills and coal-mines.

I REMARK elsewhere that the retail trade is
principally in the hands of the Jews, although
of late years a few shops have been opened on
the Galea Victorie by some of the " upper ten."
There is, for example, the shop of Prince Stirbey,
another belonging to Prince Brancovan, and still
another to M. Bratiano. These gentlemen con-
ceived the good idea of cultivating various kinds of
produce on their farms, thus giving employment to
a considerable number of people, and then sending
it to town to be sold. Stirbey's butter is well
known as the best to be had. His preserved fruit
and vegetables are excellent, and his wine bears
comparison with the produce of the best vine-
yards. All the apphances necessary for the conduct
of this really important enterprise, the casks and
bottles for the wines, the jars for the fruits, etc.,
are manufactured on the estate, so that employ-

72

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 73

ment is given to many workers in various fields of
industry.

It seems curious that the only Roumanian shops
in Bucarest should be those belonging to Princes ;
but so it is. It is also true, however, that these
personages merely lend their names to the under-
takings, and leave them to be carried out by those
whom they employ. Perhaps, as an example has
been set by these aristocratic traders, others lower
down in the scale of society may in time be tempted
to follow suit and discover that it is not really so
very derogatory to their dignity to keep a shop.

It is a great pity that there is no English shop in
Bucarest. It is also a pity that greater facilities
are not offered to Roumanians to trade with England.
As a gentleman once remarked to me, " If only an
English shop were opened here the goods would
command a ready sale, and would oust the German-
made articles from the market." But there is no
shop, and before the war there were few commercial
travellers from England to offer English goods to
a sympathetic market. ^ Roumanians like English
goods, and would be eager to buy them if it were an
easy matter for them to do so. Amongst the many
obstacles in the way are our curious monetary system,
and our still more curious, and even archaic, system
of weights and measures, the latter with terms
which are often only intelligible to the trade expert.

The catalogues sent out from England by business
firms are printed in English only, and therefore can

^ I am glad to learn that this reproach is no longer deserved. I
am informed that since the war a number of British fii-ms have, by
means of wisely-selected representatives, taken advantage of the
ready market, and a profusion of British goods, notably woollens
and linens, are now to bo seen in Bucarest.

74 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

only be circulated among those people who under-
stand the language thoroughly. Even for them the
difficulties are great. How often I have been called
upon to reduce shillings to francs, and to explain the
difference between " metre " and " yard " ! Then
the various contractions in a catalogue !

There are no facilities for trade between Roumania
and England such as exist between Roumania and
other countries. For instance, one sends an order to
Paris or Vienna, and on the arrival of the goods in
Bucarest is advised of the fact by the postal authori-
ties. The consignee then proceeds to the custom-
house, inspects the goods, and if satisfactory pays
the price on the spot. If not, they are sent back.
But in sending to England for goods what a diffi-
cult business it is ! Say a costume is required.
First of all the measurements have to be accurately
translated into English. Then the price has to be
calculated and the money forwarded at the same
time as the order. Should there be even a trifling
error, some pence too few or too many, there is
trouble and delay and the matter is difficult to
arrange. I believe, however, that there is big busi-
ness to be done not only with Roumania, but with
other of the Balkan States. English people do not
readily put themselves out of the way to capture
trade, nor do they easily adapt themselves to the
tastes, wishes, or customs of foreigners. Since the
war there has, of course, been the exchange diffi-
culty, but that will not always remain.

Let me give one example of English conservat-
ism. A certain English firm was approached as to
the sending out of some agricultural machines.
Now the peasantry of the Near East are very fond

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 75

of bright colours, such as red, blue, and green, and
the first machines which arrived, painted in a uni-
form shade of ugly grey, failed to please. A sug-
gestion was forwarded to the firm regarding the
colour of the machines, but the reply received was
that grey was the standard colour which had been
decided on by the firm for all their machines and it
could not be altered. The result was that the order
was cancelled.

I must not forget to mention that there is one
English factory in Roumania for the making of calico
and linen. It was established some years ago by a
well-known Manchester merchant, Mr Lamb, who
found it decidedly more advantageous to have the
yarn sent out from England, and to manufacture it
in the country where it was to be sold. By so doing
he escaped the enormous tax on all manufactured
goods imported into the country. The factory is a
fine building, lighted throughout by electricity. The
manager's house, a most comfortable residence, is
only a short distance away. Cottages for the work-
people, and a canteen where food can be purchased
at a reasonable rate, are also situated near the factory.
These buildings cover a quite respectable area.

It is the law in Roumania that every foreign
factory must employ a certain number of Roumanian
workers— two-thirds of the whole. Therefore only
skilled workmen were brought from England, the
unskilled labour being provided in the country.
Lack of skill, however, was not the only difficulty
which had to be contended with. The native
workers were unreliable and indolent— let us say at
once, lazy. In going over the factory, I was told by
the foreman that even the unskilled worker could

76 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

earn from twenty to twenty-five francs weekly if
he were industrious ; and one must remember that
twenty-five francs (£l) counts for considerably more
in Roumania with such a class than in England, as
food is so very much cheaper. But the trouble
was the indolence of the people and the oft-
recurring saints' days. As soon as the worker had
a little money in hand he felt that he had earned
the right to rest from his labour, for a time at any
rate. As for the idea that work might be done on
a saint's day, that could not be entertained for a
moment. Naturally, under such conditions it is
most difficult to carry on work in the factory, or
even to maintain a proper discipline.

I regret to learn that this factory was badly
damaged during the war.

There is also an English bank in Bucarest — the
old-established Bank of Roumania, Ltd., which has
always been held in the highest esteem by the
Roumanians, and serves a very important purpose
in the trade relations between the two countries.

At Azuga, on the way from Sinaia to Predeal,
there are a few factories, for the most part con-
trolled by Germans. The glass factory is the most
interesting one to visit, as one can follow the whole
process from the mixing of the sand, potash, etc.,
to the turning out of the perfect bottles and glasses.
For the most part the articles turned out are of an
inferior quality, but a superior class of goods is
manufactured from time to time. For instance,
some very artistic glass cups and saucers are turned
out at Azuga. They are made of fairly thick glass,
quite smooth, and finished off with a gilt band
round the edge of the cup. Wash-hand basins and

T\^^NTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 77

jugs made of similar glass, and various little acces-
sories for the toilet table, are also manufactured
here. A dainty little cake-stand for afternoon tea
with glass plates instead of china on each etage is a
novelty that I have seen nowhere else.

A cloth manufactory in the same village turns out
quite respectable goods. The texture and finish of
the material are not what could be termed first
class, but for its durability I can vouch. A cycling
costume that I had made of cloth manufactured at
Azuga wore well for years ; in fact, I could not wear
it out, and finally gave it away.

There are a few breweries in Roumania, and one
of the best know^n is at Azuga. Azuga beer is very
light, not heady at all. It bears some resemblance
to Munich beer in quality but not in price. Beer in
Roumania is very expensive, a bottle about the size
of a " small Bass " costing one franc. The reason
for this is the enormous tax imposed on the output,
which is at the rate of 50 per cent. The tax is
imposed by the Government in the interest of the
wine-growing industry, which is the national industry
of the country.

There are a few beer-gardens in Bucarest where
a military band is engaged once or twice a week, but
they are not by any means so frequented as they
would be, say, in Germany, partly owing to the cost
of the beer, and partly because it is not considered
chic to be seen in a beer-garden. What a delight it
is when travelling in summer to remember that,
once over the frontier, one can indulge in a cool,
foaming glass of beer at a moderate cost, the
beverage being so very much cheaper both in
Hungary and Austria !

78 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Roumania is, in parts, a wine-growing country.
The grapes, although small, have a very fine flavour.
The wine is light in quality, the best kinds being
Cotnar, which resembles Tokay, the delicious
Hungarian wine, and Dragasani, a white wine with
an excellent taste. Roumanian wines are by no
means expensive ; one could buy a bottle of quite
good wine for one franc before the war.

Sugar factories have also been established in the
country, beetroot being of course employed in its
manufacture. The sugar looks all right; it is
beautifully white, but it is very hard, takes a very
long time to melt, and does not sweeten as much
as cane-sugar. It is also rather expensive, and
cost no less than 6d. per pound before the war.
A curious thing is that over the frontier, in Bulgaria
or Serbia, Roumanian sugar could be bought at a
much cheaper rate than in the country.

Cheese factories are numerous throughout the
country, and in addition to the production of the
national cheeses many foreign cheeses, such as
Emmenthaler, Roquefort, etc., are fairly well imi-
tated. Sheep's cheese, unknown in this country,
is one of the best of the Roumanian products. It is
very white in appearance, mild to the taste, not
at all piquant.

One peculiarity of sheep's cheese is that it is
made in an oblong shape and then packed in
bark. When served at table slices are cut right
through the bark. The cheese has rather a peculiar
flavour from its contact with the bark, but this is
not at all disagreeable, indeed, rather the contrary.
It is sold in very small quantities, as sheep give so
little milk.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 79

I was present once at sheep-milking time, and
found it a most entertaining sight. The sheep were
driven into a small enclosure at one corner of which
was a flap-door. When the flap was raised, the
sheep nearest the door saw a means of escape from
its uncomfortable surroundings and made a dash for
it, only to be caught by the hind leg by the man
seated near, who did not let go till he had got every
available drop of milk from the animal. On an
average one could count upon half a glass of milk
from each sheep. But the dexterity of the man in
catching his prey, his skill in the quick milking of
the animal in spite of its struggles, then its final
rush for freedom, were all very amusing to witness.

The petrol wells of Roumania are, I should think,
well known by this time. Different companies have
been formed for the working of the wells, but the
best known is the Steaua Romana, in which since
the war British capital has become largely interested.
Rockefeller made a great bid in order to get full
control of the oil-fields, as Roumanian petrol is of
decidedly better quality than any other, not excluding
that of America. The negotiations were the cause
of much discussion and difference of opinion — one
party wishing to accept Rockefeller's proposals, the
other saying they were traitors to their country,
and were selling themselves and what they possessed
to the Americans. I once said to a Roumanian
gentleman, " Why not form companies of your own
and work the oil-fields in your own interests ? "
" Oh no," he replied ; " in selling them to the
foreigners we get the money and they do the work."
The reply may have been an indication of the
natural indolence of an eastern nation, but it

80 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

was also, I think, prompted by consideration of
capital.

The discovery and consequent exploitation of
petroleum in the country caused a great influx of
Americans, and therefore our British colony was
increased to a considerable extent, as Britishers and
Americans naturally hung together. As Rocke-
feller, in spite of obstacles, finally succeeded in getting
very large interests in the oil-fields, his agent, Mr
Chamberlain, and family resided for a considerable
time in Bucarest.

The most important oil-field is that of Campina,
on the way to Sinaia. The district seems to be so
saturated with oil that it has rendered the whole
countryside intolerable. One begins to smell it on
leaving Ploesti. Luckily it does not extend so far
as Sinaia, otherwise that charming resort would be
rendered uninhabitable.

The discovery of petroleum has made the fortunes

of many people in Roumania. There was M. M ,

for instance, who was, I believe, of gipsy origin,
as he did not even possess a surname when he began
life. By dint of industry he managed to become
possessor of a small estate, and one fine day when
petrol was discovered on it he realised that he could
count himself a millionaire. He immediately took
the name of his land for his own, built a magnificent
residence in the Galea Victorie, and later on his
youngest daughter formed a matrimonial alliance
with a member of the aristocracy.

A few paper-mills are to be found in the country,
and a walk through one or other of them is very
interesting. Nothing but wood is employed in the
factory. The great logs are brought in direct from

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 81

the neighbouring forests, then cut up, pressed,
reduced to a pulp, and finally turned out as sheets
of paper. It is chiefly paper for packing that is
made, but a certain quantity of notcpaper is also
made. I was presented with a box of it, but it is
of very inferior quality, and does not possess the
gloss or finish of our own.

Coal has been found in Roumania, though not in
any great quantity. I was told, however, that the
quality was very good. Roumania is more an
agricultural than an industrial country, and wheat
is the great source of income. Everything, trips to
Paris or Monte Carlo, new clothes, opera-boxes, etc.,
turns upon the question, " Will there be a good
harvest ? " When snow begins to fall early in
winter, farmers are very pleased; they say snow
means gold for the country, as it protects the seed
from the severe cold and from the frost which is
sure to follow.

CHAPTER IX

Severe restrictions on Jews — The Jews as traders— Tlioir vigoroias
methods — They exploit the peasants of the countryside as wine-
shopkeepers and moneylenders — The Jews as tenants of estates
sublet at rack rents — The original proprietor cannot see that he
has any share of responsibility for the grinding down of the
peasants— An anti-Jewish riot in the Lipscani — A family of
Paris Jews make a large fortune in a fashionable shop in a
few years — A Jewish wedding which is a double one.

JEWS are not considered citizens even when
natives of the country and doing mihtary
service. They cannot be officers in the army, nor
are they allowed to rise even to the rank of corporal.
No Jew can take a bursary at a university. In
Roumanian primary schools (which are free to
Roumanian children) Jews must pay, and indeed
are only received when there happens to be room
for them.

Jews are not allowed to practise law or to hold
any Government office without being specially ad-
mitted to citizenship, a privilege very difficult to
obtain ; and they cannot become teachers in State
schools except for foreign languages. They are not
allowed to buy any property in cities or towns.

In many towns Jews have schools of their own,
as well as a hospital and a bathing establishment.
There were, roughly speaking, nearly one million Jews
in Roumania, where members of the race have been
settled for the last three hundred years. They

82

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 83

came principally from Russia and Galicia. In olden
times, when the country was still under Turkish rule,
a Jewish king was once appointed, who, however,
only reigned over the country for the space of
three days.

Jews form an important section of the population,
as most of the retail trade is carried on by them.

The young men of the upper classes in Roumania
must all have professions. They study medicine,
engineering, law, or go into the army, but soil their
hands with trade they will not. That is why all
the trade of Roumania is in the hands of the Jews.
They are shopkeepers or moneylenders, but it will
be noticed that no Jew or Jewess ever undertakes
menial service.

In the Strada Lipscani and the neighbouring
streets almost all the shopkeepers are Jews, and
when business is slack they are always to be found at
their shop doors pressing the passers-by to enter and
inspect the goods.

Woe to any unsophisticated peasant who ventures
to go alone to that neighbourhood to buy some
article of clothing ; he risks being torn in pieces.
I witnessed an occurrence one day which highly
amused me. A man of the poorer class was saunter-
ing along looking at the different suits of clothes
exposed to view, evidently with the intention of
buying one. Suddenly he was seized upon by two
opposing shopkeepers, each of whom began at once
to drag the poor man in the direction of his particular
shop, at the same time extolling his wares in a loud
voice. At first the man laughed, taking it as a joke,
but he was soon convinced that his captors meant
serious business. He was pulled to one shop, then

84 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

to the other, again and again, until I began to expect
every moment that the sleeves would be torn out of
his coat. However, in the end the stronger of the
two shopkeepers gained the victory, and landed
his prize safely in his shop. Very probably he did not
let him out again till he had spent most, if not all, of
the money he had in his pocket.

Jews are not liked in Roumania, although the
Roumanians are ready enough to resort to them
when they are in money difficulties. They demand
an exorbitant interest on any money lent, the rate
not being regulated in Roumania as it is, for
instance, in France ; and this circumstance prob-
ably helps to intensify the feeling of dislike that
many have for the Jews.

The Jew has it all his own way in the country
districts, and is hated accordingly. He runs the
cabaret or wine-shop, but is quite willing to lend
money at the same time. When the peasant has
had bad crops, or been too lazy to work, he has
recourse to the Jew, to whom he must give good
security for the money he borrows. The result is in
most cases that one head of his stock after another
falls into the clutches of the moneylender, their
owner finding it impossible to redeem them, and he
may count himself lucky if he gets out of the Jew's
hands still having a roof over his head. The
Roumanians are an improvident race, and the fault
lies on their side as much as on that of the Jews,
although they will never confess it. All their
railings are against the exorbitant interest demanded
from them. It is not to be denied that the Jew
oppresses them when he gets the chance ; but then
why give him the chance ?

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 85

Those people too of the better class who possess
some land but do not wish to trouble about the
working of it, generally let it to a Jew, as he offers a
better price than anyone else. He in his turn
sublets it, and naturally demands the highest price
he can get. Then the Roumanian laments about
how the poor peasantry are ground down by the
Jews; but, as I remarked once to a gentleman,
" Why then let your land out to a Jew ? " " Well,
you see, he pays a better price," was the naive reply.
So it seemed to me there was no difference whatever
between the two. The Roumanian was not un-
willing to profit by the Jew, who in his turn got it
out of the people under him.

On the whole, Jews are fairly well treated in
Roumania. Sometimes the always-present under-
lying irritation against them finds vent in a sudden
raid on their shops by an angry mob.

Such a raid occurred some years ago, and I was an
eye-witness of many of the incidents. Most damage
was caused in the Lipscani, where the shop windows
were smashed and the goods strewn about the street.
But, in spite of all this damage, I did not hear of any
authenticated case in which a Jew suffered bodily
harm. Of course they had to lie low for a time,
but little by httle they ventured to reopen their
shops and have them repaired, and all went on as
before.

The Roumanian authorities received all claims for
damages, and reimbursed the claimants ; but a few
of the better-class firms refused to put in any claim
— they were magnanimous enough to bear the loss.
Probably they thought to themselves that they
could put on an extra franc or two on all goods in

86 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the future and so indemnify themselves. The
Jew is wily enough to take care of his own
interests.

A Jew once came from Paris to help in a shop
kept by Jews. After some time he sent for his
brother, who also entered the business, which
presently succeeded so well that the establishment
was enlarged. A brother-in-law and his wife then
arrived, till finally the whole family installed them-
selves in the Lipscani, and took over the business
themselves from the original proprietors. All
articles of clothing, of the toilet, everything, in fact,
was brought from Paris, which was, of course, a
great attraction for the Roumanians. The shop
finally became the most fashionable establishment
in Bucarest, and succeeded so well that the whole
family at length returned to Paris, having amassed
a considerable fortune. The shop passed into the
hands of a Swiss company, whether Jews or not
I cannot say, but the business lost to some extent
its high-class character.

There are two Jewish synagogues in Bucarest,
the one more recently built being a very fine
building indeed. I went there once to a Jewish
wedding, and found it most interesting. On such an
occasion there always stands at the entrance to the
synagogue a group of gentlemen, one of whom at
once offers his arm and leads you to a seat. The
time before the arrival of the bride is well employed
in admiring the costumes of the ladies, which show
that no expense has been spared, and also noting the
preparations for the ceremony, which seem strange
to our unaccustomed eyes.

At the upper end of the synagogue is a raised

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 87

platform with a canopy over it. On the platform
is a table on which there is a carafe of wine and one
small goblet, and near the table sits the expectant
bridegroom, with his hat on, awaiting the bride.
The bridesmaids and near relatives have seats also
quite near the platform. At length, when every-
one's eyes are anxiously turned towards the door to
catch the first glimpse of the bride, a distant sound
of singing is heard. The sound draws nearer, and
then one sees that it is the Rabbi, who comes slowly
up the synagogue chanting and looking curiously
at the people present, who are assuredly not all
Jews. The Rabbi on this particular occasion
squints, the effect being most comical as he casts
his eyes now to the right and now to the left. A
few minutes later the bride arrives and comes
slowly up the aisle, all in bridal white, unaccom-
panied, save by her mother, who follows some paces
behind.

The bride and groom now take their stand under
the canopy, and the service begins. There is a good
deal of chanting, and finally the moment arrives
when the wine is offered. The bridegroom drinks
first, and then presents the goblet to the bride. The
goblet is then smashed, as it must not be used again
under any circumstances. At the end of the service
congratulations are offered, and the wedding-party
proceeds to the house of the bride in order to partake
of the wedding-feast.

The marriage at which I was present was a double
one, two sisters being married at the same time.
The younger of the two was pretty, and had been
engaged for some months (a rare occurrence, as
Jewish engagements are of short duration), but the

88 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

parents would not hear of the wedding taking place
till a husband could be found for the elder girl. The
younger to marry first was a thing not to be thought
of. Finally, a suitable parti was found, and the two
sisters were married on the same day.

I

CHAPTER X

The educational system — Long hovirs of study and no fresh air or
exercise — Take Jonescu, as Minister of Education, introduces
the bath-tub to the schools, and provides for walking exercise —
School -fare is never good — A water famine — Examinations
and show questioixs — English poetry translated literally —
German literature taught in French, the pupils being examined
in Roumanian — Lack of books in the Roumanian language —
The school fetes — Convents and proselytising — A girl who
despised all the pleasures of the world and ran away to become
a m^n.

EDUCATION is free and compulsory throughout
Roumania, but in many rural districts non-
attendance at school is winked at, especially at
harvest-time. The Government primary schools
in the capital are chiefly attended by the lower
classes ; children of the better-class families either
attend private schools or have instruction at home.
But in any case children are expected to present
themselves at the Government examinations, and
to pass the first four classes.

Private schools in the capital are usually well
attended, some having as many as four hundred
pupils, the children from the provinces always being
sent to Bucarest for their education. Although
very much is expected from Roumanian children,
they are sadly handicapped. Their own tongue is
grossly neglected, instruction being usually given
them in French. They are, besides, taught English
and German, and sometimes Latin and Greek. A

89

90 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

great deal of attention is devoted to music and
painting, and of late years practical training in
dressmaking, cooking, and housekeeping is given in
the schools.

Naturally, with so many subjects in the curri-
culum, there is not much time to lose if one is to get
all one's work done for the next day in a certain
time. Very many written exercises are demanded
of the pupils, in all languages, the consequence being
that the handwriting is atrocious, and time is too
limited to allow of any improvement being even
attempted in this direction.

School begins at 8 o'clock a.m., continuing till
midday, when there is an interval for dinner and
recreation till 2 o'clock. Lessons are then resumed,
and continue till 6 p.m. Of course this does not
mean that every child is continually occupied for
eight hours. A pupil may have only four classes to
attend on one day, perhaps five on another day, or
sometimes only three — but the rest of the time must
be devoted to the preparation of lessons for the
next day. Preparation ended, the pupil may employ
herself as she likes, provided she remains quiet, as,
of course, lessons may be going on in the class-room
in which she has no part.

These hours are very long, and when one con-
siders that no time is given for outdoor exercise,
one cannot wonder that the children grow up puny
and stunted. In a well-known school in Bucarest
outdoor exercise, fresh air, and baths were unknown.
The class-rooms were overheated, there being a
large stove in each, and windows were never opened.
Once a fortnight the children of so many classes
(they were taken in rotation) were assembled in the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 91

recreation room, where the washing of their feet was
supervised by the German governess with all due
solemnity ! This was the only concession to cleanli-
ness, as of course colds would have to be risked if
further ablutions were indulged in !

These customs were somewhat changed a few
years ago (perhaps I may be permitted to say that
it was upon my representation), when Mons. Take
Jonescu became Minister of Instruction. He, as an
intelligent and enlightened man, readily saw the
evils that were certain to accrue to the youth of the
country from such an upbringing. Regulations
were framed insisting upon baths being provided in
all public and private schools, and upon time being
allowed for the children to take a walk daily of at
least an hour. These innovations were by no means
favourably received at the time either by heads of
schools or by the children themselves, and it would
not astonish me to learn that things have fallen
back into the old way. Breakfast is served at
7 o'clock, consisting of a cup of coffee and a kipfel
(small roll) without butter. Midday is the luncheon
hour, when the dishes are generally varied, but never
appetising (school-fare never is). Sometimes meat
is served stewed with quinces, potatoes, or other
vegetables, and a pudding made of maize flour
liberally besprinkled with grated cheese. At 4 o'clock
a piece of dry bread is given to each child, and
at 6 o'clock comes dinner. This generally con-
sists of a thin soup, rarely palatable, the second
course being the meat from which the soup has been
made. Surely such meat was never seen anywhere
else! It is generally perfectly white, as if it had
been stewed until every drop of nourishment had

92 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

been extracted from it. This, together Avith
vegetables, forms the second course. If a governess
cannot bring herself to swallow it, or can plead a
bad headache, she may be allowed a bifteck ; but as
the beef-steaks are difficult to distinguish from a bit
of shoe-leather, little is gained by the exchange.

Stewed fruit, or a light pudding, ends the evening
meal. The governesses are allowed a glass of the
thin red wine of the country, but the children are
obliged to slake their thirst with water. Such
water ! It used to look as if a tiny drop of milk had
fallen into it by mistake, and had left it a muddy
colour. The water of Bucarest was very bad when
I first went there, but of late years it has greatly
improved, as filtering-beds have been arranged for
the water to pass through before entering the
capital. A scheme was mooted for bringing water
from Sinaia, but as the cost would have been very
great, the plan was not proceeded with. If it had,
there would be no capital in Europe better provided
with water, as that of Sinaia is the best I have ever
tasted. Clear as crystal, and perfectly cold, as all
mountain water is, it forms a refreshing draught on
a hot summer day.

But even in the mountains the supply may run
short, as happened one exceedingly hot summer. I
was at Sinaia at the time, and it was the only
occasion in my whole life when I envied a queen.
I heard that her Majesty alone amongst all the
people of the land was able to indulge in the luxury
of a daily bath.

But to return. The examinations are usually in
the month of June, both State examinations and
those in private schools. Upon the occasion of the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 93

first school examination at which I was present I
did feel astonished. The room in which it was held
looked rather imposing, being handsomely decorated
with tall plants and plenty of flowers. The relatives
and friends of the pupils had been invited to be
present, and a goodly number responded. A class
came up to be examined in German grammar, but
to my amazement only two questions were put by
the teacher. These two questions were fut alter-
nately to every pupil in the class, and the first answer
being correct, all the others were of course also
correct, as each pupil interrogated had just heard
the reply of the preceding pupil.

The explanation — such as it was — came later on.
In preparing my own class (for I had an engagement
at this school for a short time), I was instructed by
the headmistress as to the questions to be asked.
She remarked, " It makes such a bad impression if
the pupils fail to answer correctly ! " English
poetry was learned by heart, first being translated
literally word by word. They would have been
remarkably clever children who could have made
any sense whatever out of it as so rendered ; but the
headmistress decreed that it should be so, and so it
had to be.

German was even more curiously taught. Rou-
manian children do not like German, so they are
never very proficient in it. Not knowing the
language sufficiently well to study in it, German
literature was taught in French ; and when the girls
presented themselves for the State examination,
they were questioned in Roumanian !

One may wonder why they do not learn in their
own tongue ; the explanation is, to a large extent,

94 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

simply the lack of books. ^ There are no advanced
books in the Roumanian language dealing with
foreign subjects, so the children are obliged to use
French, a language in which they are more or less
proficient.

Holidays in Roumania are much longer than in
England — three weeks at Christmas, two weeks at
Easter, and from three to three and a half months in
summer, besides the numerous saints' days, which
are always religiously kept.

Just before breaking up for the summer holidays,
some of the private schools give a little fete. The
children act a short play ; there are various songs
and pianoforte solos as part of the entertainment,
and then dancing is indulged in till a late hour. At
one of these entertainments I happened to be pre-
sent, and was very much — shall I merely say —
amused ? to find that although dancing was kept up
for the visitors (the children were sent to bed) till
3 a.m., nothing more substantial than a dulgeata
was provided by way of refreshments. At some of
the schools the " names-day " of the headmistress
is observed as a holiday. Each child must perforce
contribute a certain sum towards the gift that is to
be presented. I have heard some dilatory ones
admonished in class to bring their contribution not
later than a certain date, as the present had then to
be bought.

A considerable sum of money is thus collected,
and as the recipient of the present is always sounded
as to her wishes, a very practical as well as a handsome

^ I believe that, since the period — several years ago — of which
I write, this state of affairs has been remedied to a considerable
extent.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 95

gift is usually obtained. One present I remember
seeing consisted of three lovely carpets of Roumanian
manufacture, really beautiful in design.

After the presentation the children are of course
free for the rest of the day, and are regaled with bon-
bons, as a slight return for their generosity.

Roumanian children are often sent for their
education to one or other of the Roman Catholic
convents scattered throughout the country, the
nuns of which invariably belong to some French
sisterhood. Some years ago there was a great stir
in Bucarest, and considerable feeling was aroused
against the nuns, as they were accused of trying to
proselytise. An outcry was raised by the people
that the faith of their forefathers was in danger
(not that I ever saw it religiously adhered to), and
some society ladies having leisure just then for a
new fad, banded themselves together in order to
protect it. A service was held in St George's, one of
the principal churches, after which a procession was
formed and passed through the streets to the palace
of the Metropolitan, in order to present him with an
address assuring him of the constant adherence of
the people of the country to their own religion, and
protesting at the same time against any attempts
to subvert their children.

The agitation caused considerable talk for a time
and then died a natural death. But it is a fact that
Roumanian girls who have been educated in a
French convent rarely retain a genuine love for
their own country, its customs, or its language.
That is one reason why the Roumanian language
is so much neglected. It has happened that girls
who have been educated in France fall utterly under

96 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the influence of the nuns, and go over to Roman
Cathohcism.

I remember the case of one girl who did so. She
was a Greek, hving in Bucarest with her parents, who,
although they were not rich, did what they thought
best for their only child in sending her to Paris to be
educated. The girl was very musical, and probably
the nuns thought she would be useful to them on that
account although she had no money. She returned to
her parents in course of time, but was always restless,
wishing to return to the convent, and finally con-
fessed to her mother her great desire to become a
nun. Her mother, being very much against the idea,
set before her all the disadvantages that would
accrue from such a course, and in order to distract
her from dwelling upon it gave her every amuse-
ment that was in her power. Balls, concerts, fetes
followed each other in quick succession, but all
proved unavailing. The girl left home one after-
noon, ostensibly to visit a friend, and the next that
was heard of her was a telegram from the frontier
informing her parents that she was on her way back
to the convent. She became a nun, and as far
as I know she was lost to her parents. This was
not by any means the only case of which I had
knowledge.

CHAPTER XI

Take Jonescu, an enlightened Minister of Education — " La bouche
d'or" — His personality — A true Roumanian in his almost Oriental
love of luxury — His town and country houses — Madame Jonescu
as an authoress- — Her menagerie of pets — The love-story of Take
Jonescu — The meeting of the law student and the English girl
— A trip to England follows — Obstacles are overcome and a
happy marriage follows.

TAKE JONESCU, as he is familiarly known all
over Roumania (Take being the diminutive
of Demetre) was a most enlightened Minister of
Education. He is an exceptionally clever man ;
gifted with powers of oratory far above the average,
and is known in his own country as " La bouche
d'or." Although Take Jonescu has never yet been
Prime Minister, it is certain that he will one day be
called upon to occupy that position, which he is so
well qualified to fill. He has held successively the
portfolios of Justice, Education, and Finance, and
is now rendering signal service to his country as
Foreign Minister.

When the Conservative party is not in power,
M. Jonescu follows his profession. He is the most
brilliant advocate in Roumania, and the side that
succeeds in retaining his services in a case is almost
certain of success.

It has been asserted that M. Jonescu is a rich man,
but this is scarcely the case. He has little or no

private means, being simply dependent upon his pro-

97 7

98 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

fessional income, which is, however, very large. It
is for him a very great sacrifice (from a monetary
point of view) to accept a portfoho, as the salary
paid to a cabinet minister in Roumania is only
30,000 francs (£1200).

In private life M. Jonescu has a charming person-
ality. He is most kind-hearted, and ready to
take the utmost trouble to help anyone in time of
difficulty. His kind deeds are innumerable, and are
always performed in such a modest manner that they
are very often unheard of by the general public.
The just cause of many a poor client has been
espoused by Take Jonescu without thought or hope
of reward.

He is a true Roumanian in his almost Oriental
love of luxury. His town house in Bucarest is
imposing. It is beautifully furnished, and always
hospitably open to foreign visitors. But it was his
villa at Sinaia in the Carpathians — where the present
writer has often had the good fortune to be a guest —
which excited the greatest admiration. It was a
charmingly situated and perfectly appointed house,
commanding a lovely view of the valley of the
Prahova, and was an ideal home in which to recruit
from the cares of professional or political life.

Many English guests were entertained there, and
this is largely due to the fact that the late Madame
Jonescu was herself an Englishwoman. She was
possessed of great musical talent and was an
authoress of no mean repute, as those can testify
who have read her fascinating book Only a Singer.
She was an able helpmeet for her husband, endowed
as she was with very real abilities.

Both husband and wife were great lovers of

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 99

animals, and it may almost be said that they
possessed a small menagerie — dogs, deer, a bear,
and a monkey being amongst their pets. It was
ehiefly owing to the efforts of Madame Jonescu
that the " Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals " established itself in Bucarest, where
the work has long been carried on in a most
efficient manner.

Of the ten dogs that Madame Jonescu possessed
some years ago " Charlie " was decidedly the
favourite. A large retriever, with a fine head and
honest brown eyes, Charlie was made much of by
everybody, and consequently thought much of him-
self. He was very fond of driving, and when the
carriage came to the door for an afternoon's visiting,
Charlie seemed to think it was there for his special
benefit. He always jumped into the carriage first,
and there remained barking with all his might till
in desperation someone would place a rolled-up
newspaper in his mouth. Then perforce he became
quiet, as he would not let go anything entrusted to
him until permitted to do so.

Poor Charlie suffered very much in summer from
the heat, and therefore at such times as his mistress
was abroad, Charlie became a boarder at the Hotel
Joseph in Sinaia. As the favourite dog of his mis-
tress, he was treated by all the waiters with great
respect, not one of them even presuming to speak of
him other than as Domnele Charlie, i.e. Master
Charlie. Every afternoon he was taken for a con-
stitutional, either by one of the waiters or by a
visitor who could be trusted. It was considered
quite a privilege to be permitted to take Charlie for
a walk. In spite of all this care, poor Charlie had to

100 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

go the way of all flesh, and he had many successors
in his mistress's affections.

Another favourite pet was a bear which had
been presented by a gentleman returning from the
Caucasian mountains. This bear roamed at will in
the courtyard, his further excursions being pre-
vented by a man armed with a big stick, who was
supposed to be always on guard.

If this man happened to be off duty for a short
time, it was then Master Bruin's great delight to
penetrate into the house, much to the consternation
of the maids. He proved such an adept at opening
doors that one only felt safe when they were locked.

One afternoon Madame Jonescu was seated in the
drawing-room chatting with some visitors. A slight
noise was heard at the door, which slowly opened,
giving entrance to Master Bear. Great was the
dismay among the ladies, who completely lost their
heads and fled to every corner of the room. For-
tunately Madame Jonescu retained her presence of
mind (she had no fear whatever of animals), took
the bear by the collar and gently led him to the door.
Once there, a call soon brought the bear's attendant
to the rescue, who took possession of his charge with
strict injunctions not to allow him so much liberty
in future.

As time went on. Bruin became too great a burden,
so was given over to the authorities in Sinaia to
place in the small menagerie that they had estab-
lished near the monastery.

Before leaving the subject of pets, I may just
mention one other — the monkey.

Armina by name and vicious by nature, this
animal was not a favourite with anyone but her

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 101

mistress. Although confined in a very strong cage,
licr fits of temper were so violent that she sometimes
succeeded in breaking one or two of the bars. Once
out of the cage, she careered up the trees and along
the roofs of the neighbouring houses, and it was a
work of great difficulty to induce her to return. The
policeman who patrolled the street, and who had
already made the acquaintance of Armina — indeed
he was a special favourite with her — had often to be
appealed to for assistance. It was very amusing to
see how readily she responded to his blandishments,
and he would return in triumph with Armina snugly
cuddled up in his arms. The policeman was very
proud of his friendship with Madame Jonescu's pet,
and went so far as to have himself photographed
with Armina in his arms.

I am tempted here into a digression to tell a
little story in which this same policeman figured.
I think I have not mentioned before that Mr Alfred
Richards, the brother of Madame Jonescu and a
member of the English bar, spent some years in
Roumania, where he was a great favourite in all
circles. His health was delicate and the climate
suited him. Mr Richards died a few years ago in
England.

On one occasion Mr Richards was entrusted by
King Carol with a special mission to the Porte. He
chose to take with him as a sort of official attendant
our friend (and Armina's) the policeman. Mr
Richards was decorated by the Sultan on the accom-
plishment of his mission, and it was expected that
the policeman would receive some acknowledgment
in accordance with his humble rank. I daresay
small things interested us in that distant land, but

102 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

I remember there was much speculation as to what
Gheorgie would get, and what he would do with it.
In the result we learned that he received from the
Sultan a very considerable sum of money as a tip,
and spent the whole of it on a splendid diamond
ring ; a curious investment, but by no means always
a bad one in Bucarest.

The love story of M. and Mme. Jonescu was of
a romantic nature. He was a young student
travelling to Paris in order to finish his studies
when a very pretty young English girl entered the
compartment in which he was seated. Seeing that
she was travelling alone, he gave her, as a gallant
Roumanian, every assistance in his power. Suscep-
tible to beauty as all Roumanians are, it was with
him a real case of love at first sight. He followed
up his advantage so eagerly, that Paris for the time
was forgotten, and he crossed to England at once
in order to make the acquaintance of the young
lady's parents. There were some obstacles, but in
spite of them love carried the day, and that part of
the story ended in a happy marriage.

CHAPTER XII

The National Theatre — Tlie students' riot on behalf of the national
language— Racing as a fasliionablo amusement — English jockeys
and trainers — The Battle of Flowers — The devotees of the card-
table — Rafting on the Bistritza, a glorioxos sport.

THE Roumanians as an Eastern nation have all
the Oriental's love of show, of glitter, and of
pleasure. Theatres, concerts, and cinematographs
are always well attended. Unfortunately very late
hours are kept, no entertainment beginning before
9 o'clock p.m., and as the Roumanian has the
Oriental's dislike of punctuality, the hour is very
often still later. After the theatre, which is only
over between midnight and 1 a.m., it is de rigueur
to go to Capsa's to drink tea or eat an ice, according
to the season. It is no wonder that Bucarest is
called a little Paris ; it resembles that gay city
very much, especially in its night-life. No matter
at what hour of the night you drive through Galea
Victorie, the street is always brilliantly illuminated,
cafes and restaurants are open, and numbers of
people are still walking about.

As a rule the Roumanians are not very keen on
their own theatre, but when a foreign company of
actors is announced (especially if it is a French
company) there is a rush for seats. Prices are
raised on such occasions, as much as 300 francs
being charged for a box.

103

104 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

There are two fairly decent theatres in Bucarest,
the National and the Lyric. The former was the
scene of a great disturbance one evening a few years
ago. Some society ladies wished to perform a play,
the proceeds to be devoted to charity. This was
quite a laudable object, but the manner in which
they designed to carry it out met with opposition
on the part of a section of the public. The play,
it was announced, was to be performed in French
and at the National Theatre. Anyone who has lived
in Bucarest will be fully aware of the dislike of
society ladies to everything distinctively Roumanian
— whether it be the language, the customs, or any-
thing else. On the other hand some of the people,
and especially the students, see no reason why their
own language should be so neglected, and on this
particular occasion they determined to protest.
The National Theatre, they declared, was for the
national drama in the national speech. The persons
responsible for the projected entertainment paid
no attention whatever to the general discontent,
but continued their rehearsals. The evening
arrived, but long before the hour fixed for the
performance the square in front of the theatre was
filled with immense crowds of students and others,
whom no efforts of the police could disperse.
Access was also gained to the building itself and it
was held against all comers. National songs were
sung, and the crowd gradually became so excited
that it was ripe for any mischief.

Woe betide anyone who tried to enter the National
Theatre that night. Each carriage as it arrived
was immediately surrounded, the horses taken out,
the windows smashed, and the occupants could

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 105

think themselves lucky if they escaped with nothing
worse than a torn dress or a knocked-in hat. The
damage done in the neighbourhood was consider-
able, windows were smashed, and one house especi-
ally was almost wrecked. The rumour ran that in
the melee a student had been killed, and was con-
cealed in the theatre, but although this excited the
crowd to frenzy, no confirmation of the report was
ever forthcoming. In the end the students carried
their point and the play was not performed.

Some time after this a society was formed, the
members of which bound themselves to protect
the Roumanian language, to speak it in public and
private, and not allow it to be ousted from its place
as the national tongue. From this date the National
Theatre was reserved for Roumanian plays. The
Lyric, which is a much smaller theatre, was given
up to foreign companies.

Riding is not practised in Bucarest to any great
extent. A few ladies have been stirred to emulation
of Queen Marie, who is an expert horsewoman, but
they are only a few. Roumanians are, it must
always be remembered, an Eastern people, and they
do not show great aptitude for violent exercise of
any kind.

Some members of the Jockey Club (formed by an
Englishman years ago) keep a stud of horses, and
races are held twice a year, in spring and autumn.
These races are very notable events, and they are
very well attended, as they are always patronised
by members of the royal family, and of course
everybody who is anybody must follow suit.

Very smart costumes are ordered for the occasion,
one well-known leader of fashion vies with another

106 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

as to which will be smarter, and it would be a bold
person who would aver that the vast concourse of
people assembled on the race-course is simply there
to follow the events of the programme, or from a
general love of horses. I rather lean to the opinion
that the majority go in order to study the
toilets.

It very often happens that these toilets are
spoiled before the day is over by the rain coming
down in torrents. It has been remarked time after
time that rain is sure to fall on the first day of the
races, and fall it generally does with a vengeance.

The jockeys are of course all English ; indeed,
M. Marghiloman has a small English colony on his
estate — a trainer, and several jockeys, who with
their wives and families make up quite a popula-
tion. M. D also keeps a stud, and of course the

army officers take part in turf matters and enter
their horses for different races. The " Derby " (on
a small scale) is the race ; I believe the prize is
5000 francs (£200), and is always given by the
Jockey Club.

The month of June was generally decided upon
for the " Battle of Flowers," an event which always
took place at the Chaussee, this popular drive lend-
ing itself much better to such purposes than any
other of the places of public resort. The " Battle
of Flowers " was arranged by the ladies of Bucarest
society, the proceeds being devoted to some chari-
table purpose — " La Creche " (the foundling hospital)
or some similar institution. If the day were fine
the Chaussee presented a very animated appear-
ance from an early hour in the afternoon, all the
economical souls going as early as possible in order

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 107

to take possession of the numerous benches along
the route, and thus avoid the expense of a chair.

The Chaussee is situated at the end of the town
and is something similar to the Prater in Vienna,
but on a much smaller scale. There is a broad
carriage way, planted on both sides with beautiful
lime trees, extending for miles, till it finally ends
in the open country. At each side of this broad
way is a walk for pedestrians, well furnished with
seats, and at the right is also a pathway for riders.
The Chaussee, it may be imagined, is very gay
when, added to its natural beauties, it is tastefully
decorated with pretty devices here and there, and
the national colours of Roumania.

Let me briefly describe the last battle I was
present at a year or two ago.

In the booths at the entrance pretty girls were
stationed to whom we willingly paid the entrance
fee of one franc. For decorated carriages the
charge was 10 francs, non-decorated 5 francs, and
bicycles 2 francs. Bands were stationed at regular
intervals along the route, enlivening the proceedings
with their strains. As the gaily decorated carriages
began to arrive, the excitement grew. There was
lavish admiration for the first on the scene, but as
carriage after carriage rolled by, one prettier than
the other, we could only gaze and gaze and admire.
I remember that Mme. C.'s carriage, decorated with
great bouquets of white marguerites and scarlet
poppies, scored a great success on this occasion.
Then the officers' brake appeared, not only decorated
with flowers, but containing a bevy of pretty young
girls, each one wearing a very efl^ective crimson
head-dress made of paper. There followed a peasant

108 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

ox-waggon decorated in true country fashion with a
canopy of fohage and bunches of field flowers.
Here again hfe interest was given to the picture by
a pretty group of young girls all dressed in Rou-
manian costume. Here and there a rider with
a decorated saddle, or a cyclist with some fantastic
floral display, excited some applause, but the ad-
miration was universal when Princess Marie (as
she then was) arrived in her carriage splendidly
adorned with roses of all colours. Princess Eliza-
beth, who drove her smart little dog-cart, also came
in for a liberal and well-deserved share of admiration.
She and her perfect little equipage made a charm-
ing picture.

Now the battle began in real earnest. As the
two lines of carriages passed and repassed each other,
the air seemed full of dainty little bouquets, thrown
from one carriage to another. The pedestrians on
the foot-paths took part also in the gay contest, and
there was many a merry interchange not only of
flowers, but of jests, as acquaintances recognised
each other in the crowd. Princess Marie scarcely
took any part in the fighting, she was so bombarded
on all sides that she could find few opportunities
for exchanges. I was pleased, however, that I
succeeded in getting a rose from her. The Princess
never stayed very long at the Battle of Flowers.
Being a constant centre of hostilities, she was bom-
barded to such an extent that probably she did not
find it very amusing.

As the dinner-hour drew near the carriages began
to wend their way homewards. Some very enthusi-
astic fighters kept it up for an hour or so longer,
ending up the day with a final drive through the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 109

town, where they were gaily acclaimed from the
crowded balconies, and attempts were made on both
sides to carry on the fight. However, little by little
the streets became quieter, and nothing remained
of the Battle of Flowers but the poor faded blooms
dropped from the carriages, and the very sub-
stantial profits for the benefit of "La Creche."

Roumanians of both sexes are devotees of the
card-table, and all sorts of games are played —
bridge, tarok, mouse, and poker are the most popular,
but the last named seems to be the favourite. Cards
are played not only in Bucarest but also in the
provinces, and women, old and young, take an
enormous amount of interest in the pastime. Card-
playing seems to be a mania with them. They sit
down to the tables in the early afternoon and
continue playing till far into the night. Of course
it must be conceded that life in the provinces is
deadly dull. In summer it is pleasant enough when
there are garden-parties, tennis-matches, and con-
certs ; but in winter there is absolutely no amuse-
ment, so that card-playing is the only resource.

No evening party can ever be successful without
the inevitable card-table, and very great sums are
lost and won during the evening ; sums that very
often the persons concerned can ill afford to lose.

As I have mentioned elsewhere, most of the rivers
in Roumania are very shallow, but the river Bistritza
is certainly an exception. This great stream flows
through part of Moldavia, and is very much used in
the transit of timber from the mountainous regions
higher up. The timber is floated down on huge
rafts, and a great amusement during the summer
months is to hire such a raft (it can be had for

110 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

twenty francs) and make the excursion down the
river.

The raft is composed of numbers of stout logs
firmly lashed together, and is about 12 feet long by
6 wide. The passengers sit in as comfortable a
position as they can adopt, and as there is nothing
whatever to take hold of, great care must be
exercised to keep it well in mid-stream so that no
collision may take place. The current is very
swift, therefore the task of the men steering the
raft is not always an easy one. There are always
numerous rafts on the river, some with passengers,
and some without, so the scene is very animated
and interesting as one drifts along through some of
the loveliest river scenery in Roumania.

The river runs swirling and seething in a succession
of slight rapids. The mountains, wooded down to
the water's edge, leave in places just a narrow gorge
where only one raft can pass at a time. There are
numerous turns and twists in the river, and when it
is swollen by the waters of the Bicassu, as is often
the case, the rapids appear like a boiling sea, the
little waves foaming and hissing round the points of
rock. It needs skilful paddling on the part of the
raftsman to avoid these miniature " Iron Gates,"
and very often disaster overtakes the smaller rafts ;
they get stranded and more or less knocked about
by the seething waters if they are in the hands of an
unskilful raftsman.

i|. When night falls a mooring-place must be found
for the raft, and a shelter for the passengers, and
herein lies one of the disadvantages of such an
excursion. The small inns that are to be met with
in this part of the country are very primitive and

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 111

the accommodation very scanty. Such as it is,
however, one must make the best of it, as the only
alternative is to spend the night on the raft.

If the weather conditions be favourable this trip
on the Bistritza can be made most enjoyable, and
most visitors to the country will have delightful
recollections of the smooth, swift motion down the
river, with the brown waters swirling and eddying
round the raft, the sun-flecked boughs now near
now far away as the raft approaches or recedes
from the bank.

CHAPTER XIII

The blessing of the waters : a picturesque ceremony — Diving for
the cross — Baptising the Jew — The child raiu-niakers ; a
charming custom — How I watered the hiiman plants — The
peasants celebrate the sowing of the seed.

IN the month of January a very curious ceremony
takes place, the blessing of the waters — that is,
of all the rivers of Roumania. A similar ceremony
is performed in Russia, so it probably owes its
origin to the Greek Church.

A very smart pavilion, decorated with a profusion
of gay flags, is erected for the occasion on the bank
of the Dimbovitza, the river on which Bucarest is
built.

On the morning of the appointed day, crowds
throng the streets dressed in their best, expectancy
depicted on every face. Roumanians love shows
of every kind and would not miss one for anything.
The crowd becomes denser as one approaches the
pavilion, and it is with difficulty that the soldiers
manage to keep a passage clear for the arrival of
the royal family.

The approach of the King is announced by a
fanfare of trumpets, and as the Court carriage
dashes up to the entrance of the pavilion every
neck is craned to catch a glimpse of his Majesty,
who is accompanied by his suite, and sometimes by
other members of the royal family.

112

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 113

After the reception of the King by the Metro-
poHtan, the rehgious service begins with the intoning
of the prayers. These can only be heard by those
in the near vicinity, but the singing by the choir is
audible for a long distance in the clear frosty air.
When a certain stage of the proceedings is reached,
the Metropolitan invokes the blessing on the waters
of Roumania, at the same time casting a large
wooden cross into the river. This is the cue for
what is the great event of the day for many people.
Large numbers of men and boys who have been
waiting in eager anticipation instantly dive after
the cross (the river is not very deep at this point),
and the lucky person who succeeds in gaining
possession of it and bringing it ashore is rewarded
by the King with a hundred-franc note (£4). The
spectacle of the poor wretch emerging shivering
from the icy water makes one feel, especially when
the snow is on the ground and a keen wind blowing,
that he has well earned the money.

Woe to the unlucky Jew who ventures to linger
in the neighbourhood of the Dimbovitza on this
particular morning. Should he be remarked by
the crowd the chances are that he too will be sent
to seek the cross in the waters of the river. This
" baptising of the Jew " is a time-honoured
ceremony.

A very curious custom is observed when, as is
frequently the case in summer, rain is badly needed.
A band of children go into the woods and array
themselves from head to foot in verdure. Chains
and garlands of green are wound around their
bodies. Crowns and wreaths of foliage, quaintly
and artistically conceived, surround their heads.

8

114 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Even bunches of grass are disposed about them.
Save their Httle brown faces, nothing which is not
verdant can be seen.

When they come rushing into your courtyard it
is as though a Httle Birnam Wood were bent on
coming to Dunsinane. However, they soon prove
to have peaceful business on hand, for they form up
in the courtyard and perform a singularly weird
and impressive dance. When this is ended your
turn comes, for you must go amongst them armed
with watering pots, and even jugs of water, and
liberally besprinkle the little rain-makers. I was
reluctant at first to wet the children, but they
appeared to enjoy it so much, shaking themselves
delightedly when a deluge more copious than usual
descended upon them, that I soon forgot my scruples
and plied my watering pot with enthusiasm.
Then the little moving bundles of green scrambled
for a few handfuls of bani, and ran off to the
next house to repeat their performance. Had
we failed to water them well their mission as
rain-makers would have been less likely to prove
successful.

On a day in early spring the peasants of the
surrounding country make high holiday in honour
of the sowing of the seed. The form the celebration
takes is a visit to the capital, which, indeed, seems
to be practically given over to them for the day.
From early morn the holiday-makers stream into
the city, their teams of oxen and their waggons
profusely decorated with gay flowers and green
branches, affording a pretty spectacle. The peasant
himself is in gala attire, and never forgets to have a
flower behind his ear, as he may meet in the town

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 115

a damsel comelier than those he left behind in the
country.

The rustic visitors promenade the principal streets
with their teams amidst much noise and laughter
and the incessant cracking of whips. They are
always pleased to accept any small gift offered to
them, and it must be said of them that the festivity
is never marred by drunkenness or license. After a
modest glass of (uica they wend their way home-
wards, reckoning up the profits of the day and
anxious to relate to those who have remained at
home the story of their adventures.

CHAPTER XIV

Festivals— A cruel christening — Marriage-making — The fiance a bore
— The bride's moral references— Anonymous letters — The bridal
dress — -The marriage ceremony — A floral departure — Hired
jewellery as wedding presents — Child brides — Tempted to the
altar with a doll !

FESTIVALS are numerous, and are conducted
on a very lavish scale. Baptisms, marriages,
and " names-days " are usually made the occasion of
great feasting. Birthdays are not celebrated, but
" names-days " are ; that is, one keeps high holiday
on the saint's day after whom one is named, as
St Marie, St Anna, St John, etc.

A Roumanian baptism is a very curious ceremony.
Many guests are invited, but the father and mother
of the child are never allowed to be present. After
prayers have been recited by the priest, a large font,
almost full of luke-warm water, is brought in. Into
this the child is plunged three times, the mouth,
nose, and eyes being kept closely shut by the fingers
of the priest. The poor little mite comes up gasping,
and when it has regained its breath after the third
dip, there is generally an outburst of crying. More
prayers are then intoned, and the priest proceeds to
touch the forehead, lips, hands, and feet of the child
with holy oil, so that it may think no evil, speak
no evil, do no evil, nor go where evil is done. The
priest interrupts this ceremony several times, in

116

TWENTY YEARS IN ROTOIANIA 117

order to spit once before him, once behind, and then
at each side. This is to keep off the devil with all
his evil ways. I was present at a baptism once,
but never again. I thought it terribly cruel for the
poor little mite, and no longer wondered that the
absence of the parents should be insisted on.

Marriages are generally arranged through the
mediation of a third person. Mme. A., for example,
has a son whom she would like to see settled in a
home of his own with a wife who can furnish the
house, pay off his debts, and generally make him
comfortable. She looks round her circle of acquaint-
ances, makes inquiries further afield, and when she
hears of a suitable match, begs one of her friends to
act as intermediary.

If the negotiations go on smoothly, and the
" dot " (the principal point) is considered satis-
factory, the engagement is celebrated immediately.
Invitations are issued, bon-bons, champagne, etc.,
ordered from Capsa, the " lautari " (Roumanian
musicians) are engaged, and when the happy
occasion arrives, dancing is kept up till a very late
hour. In the course of the evening dancing stops
for a short time, everyone crowds into the largest
drawing-room, where the engaged couple are found
standing side by side. The oldest friend of the
family makes a short speech, wishing all happiness
and prosperity to the young people, who then
exchange rings. These rings are worn till the
wedding-day, when they are once more exchanged
and the bride comes into her own.

After the engagement, the bridegroom comes to
dinner every evening to make the acquaintance of
the bride, as probably he has never set eyes on her

118 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

before. The engagement rarely lasts longer than
two or three weeks, for, as a prospective mother-in-
law once remarked to me, " long engagements are
impossible in our country. It is tedious enough
for us having this man come to dinner every evening
for a week or two."

When the approaching marriage of a young couple
is announced, the authorities send round forms to
three householders in the neighbourhood of the
bride's residence which they are requested to fill
up and return. The questions are relative to the
moral character of the bride. When I first heard
of this extraordinary procedure, I did not believe
the truth of the story, but later on I was shown one
of these amazing documents. Another very un-
pleasant feature of engagements is the constant
reception by both bride and groom of anonymous
letters containing all sorts of allegations and sug-
gestions concerning the character of the prospective
partner. These letters continue to arrive till the
day on which the wedding takes place.

A Roumanian bride's dress does not differ very
much from that of her western sister, with the ex-
ception of the veil. Instead of a veil, as we under-
stand it, a quantity of gold thread is worn, falling
from the head to the edge of the dress. It has a
very beautiful effect. In very grand weddings this
thread is of real gold and costs a great deal of
money. In weddings of a simple character, the
thread is not gold, and is usually hired for the
occasion.

The civil ceremony required by law takes place
one day, the religious marriage on the day
following. The latter usually takes place in the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 119

evening, and the gay toilets of the guests, the
gala-robes of the priests, and the innumerable
wax eandles whieli liglit up the seene, make a
striking and beautiful pieture. The bridesmaids
assemble in the ehurch to await the bride, who is
then immediately led up to the " ikons," i.e. holy
pietures, in order to kiss them. She then takes
her stand together with the bridegroom and his
near relatives at a small table, and the serviee begins.

Light metal crowns are plaeed on the heads of
the bride and groom (it is rather ludicrous in the
ease of the latter, especially if he happens to be
bald), and the intoning of the prayers continues, to
the accompaniment of a shower of flowers which
descend from the galleries on all the participants in
the ceremony.

The rings are next exchanged, and afterwards
the " holy dance " takes place. Bride and groom,
near relatives, and priests, all join hands and
solemnly make a circuit of the table three times. It
is rather a risky proceeding for the bridegroom, as
his crown is so liable to fall off. The bride is safe,
as hers is fastened with hairpins.

A procession of carriages is formed for the home-
ward journey. These carriages are generally decor-
ated with flowers, and large lighted candles are
carried by the footman on the box.

In olden times the girls in Roumania were sought
in marriage at a very early age. It was not con-
sidered at all extraordinary for girls of fifteen or
even younger to get married.

A young Roumanian lady told me that her own
grandmother was only thirteen years of age when
she married. The proposal of marriage was laid

120 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

before her, and she, being only a child, thought how
fine it would be to have nice new dresses and be
able to buy anything she fancied, therefore she
readily agreed.

When the wedding-day arrived, however, the
child was not in the same mood, and nothing would
induce her to go to church. Persuasion, promises,
threats, all were unavailing. The bridegroom elect
and the relatives were at their wits' end ; every-
thing was prepared, the visitors assembled, the
priests already waiting at the church to perform the
ceremony. What was to be done ? Suddenly the
bridegroom elect had an inspiration. Throwing
himself into the waiting carriage, he dashed off at
full speed, returning in a short time with the most
beautiful doll that could be bought in Bucarest.
The joy of the child was unbounded, and when the
doll was placed in her arms she readily consented to
go to church and get married. In spite of her fit
of objection on the day of her nuptials, she was, I
have been assured, very happy in her luarried life.
To the day of her death, however, she never called
her husband anything but " Domnele," i.e. Master.
He was considerably older than she, hence, I suppose,
her great respect for him.

CHAPTER XV

Pretty Roumanian women — Adventitiovis aids to beauty — Paris
toilets — ChUdish extravagances — Men with London tailors — A
dandy in blue boots — Some quaint superstitions — Warding ofi
the evil eye — The efficacy of hot coals and a cup of water —
— The Martisoara, or March token — A wife's indiscretion
punished : a story of poetic justice — The Martisoara as a tem-
peramental barometer.

ROUMANIAN ladies are on the whole pretty,
and some are very pretty. They have always
good hair and teeth and small feet. Their figures
are very good, and if one should happen to have
a bad one, it is easily set right by the corsetUre.
The only thing that is not quite up to the mark is
the complexion, and this is the reason why there is
such a brisk demand for powder and paint. Dyeing
the hair is also greatly in vogue, even with young
people, and it is very amusing to note the change
in a person's appearance when such dyes have first
been used.

I knew two sisters, daughters of Princess

(who always insisted upon her title) who were very
pretty girls with dark brown hair. Evidently they
were discontented with it, as on meeting them one
day I noticed, to my utter amazement, that their
hair was golden. I was so taken aback that I could
not at once congratulate them on their appearance,
although they evidently expected me to do so. On

121

122 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

seeing my confusion they were at great pains to
explain that their hair was not dyed ; they had
only used oxygen on it. As the result was the same,
however, it did not seem to me to matter what
they called the process.

Roumanians know how to dress, the ladies especi-
ally, and as every article of the toilet comes from
Paris, their taste is sure to be guided aright. They
do not mind what they spend on dress, the simplest
walking costume in pre-war times costing £8, 10s.,
simple hats anything from £4 upwards, so one may
imagine how much may be spent on more elaborate
toilets. These prices are not by any means con-
fined to the wealthiest classes of society — even
moderately well-to-do people will spend enormous
sums on clothes. They seemed to me like over-
grown children in many cases ; as long as they had
money to spend, it had to be spent.

I particularly remember a case in point. A
young man of Bucarest inherited a considerable
sum of money. At once he invested in a smart
carriage and a really fine pair of horses. He was
seen driving in great style to the Chaussee every
afternoon, and I was told that it was a sight to see
his dressing room hung round with suits of clothes
of every prevailing fashion, and under each suit a
pair of boots or shoes ready to hand.

This joyous life went on for a time, till the money
began to get scarce (as it has an awkward habit of
doing), and the young man had to sell his carriage
and fine horses. He was then seen taking his daily
airing in a hirja, i.e. hired carriage (no Roumanian
walks unless he is absolutely obliged), and after some
months of that he was reduced to riding in the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 123

tram ! His fall was gradual, but the lowest depth
was reached at last.

The men of Roumania are not good-looking as
a rule. They are generally short in stature with
very dark complexions and conspicuously mous-
tached. Moustaches used to be worn with
turncd-up ends in imitation of the Kaiser, but as
he is no longer looked on with any favour this
fashion has been abandoned. The men who are
rich enough to do so, order their clothes in London,
or in Paris. As a rule only those who really cannot
afford to do otherwise get their clothes in their own
country.

The boots that one buys in Roumania are usually
of a very light make, both for winter and summer.
Ladies wear black, brown, or grey, but I have never
seen them with other colours, as I have seen men.
My astonishment was great one day when I met a
man wearing a pair of light blue boots. One never
requires strong boots in Roumania, as in winter
snow-boots are worn over the others, and removed
on entering the house. Boots were always expen-
sive in Bucarest, a decent pair costing from 25
francs (£l) upwards; but really smart people paid
75 and 80 francs a pair.

Ladies practically always have their corsets, boots,
and gloves made for them. It is very seldom indeed
that they buy any of those articles ready made.

We must always remember, in considering the
Roumanian people, that their civilisation is far
more suggestive of the East than of the West. In
our eyes some of their customs are very peculiar, to
say the least of it. Even the upper classes are
extremely superstitious.

124 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

No one ever dreams of starting on a journey or
commencing any particular work on a Tuesday. It
is considered a very unlucky day.

Dreams are gravely related and certain con-
clusions are drawn from them, based, of course, on
past experience, either of the raconteur or of some
friend.

Little children wear coloured ribbons in order to
keep off the " evil eye." A boy wears red and a
little girl blue. It is rather a convenient custom,
as one knows at once the sex of the child, and is not
under the necessity of alluding to an infant as " it."

On no account must one admire or praise a child
in the hearing of its parents. Such a proceeding is
looked upon as directly challenging the operations
of the " evil eye." I shall never forget an incident
which occurred some years ago. I had called upon

Madame , and we were quietly drinking tea

together in the English manner, a compliment to
me, when her husband rushed in with their little boy,
in a state of the greatest excitement. He explained
that they had been walking on the Galea Victorie
when they met a mutual friend of ours, an English-
man, who had not been long in Bucarest. This
gentleman had unluckily expressed his admiration

of the handsome boy ; hence the trouble. M.

rang the bell violently and gave an order to the
servant, who without delay brought in a cup of
cold water on a tray, whilst she carried in the other
hand a small shovel containing three live coals
from the kitchen fire. With great anxiety and
solicitude, the perturbed father dropped the three
pieces of charcoal into the cup. They sizzled a
little and— floated. Had they sunk the direst mis-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 125

fortunes would have been presaged. A teaspoon-
ful of the water was then given to the child, his
forehead, the palms of his hands, and the soles of his
feet were moistened with it, and three paternosters
having been said, all was well. The relieved father
turned to me with many apologies for his excited
entrance, " But you know," he explained, " the
matter was of the very greatest importance, and
he is our only child."

It is the universal feminine custom in Roumania
to wear a " Mar^isoara " during the month of
March. This is an ornament primarily intended
for young girls, and all kinds of them are worn,
from simple ones of glass or painted wood to
costly trinkets of silver or gold ornamented with
precious stones. They are therefore of all prices.
But whatever the cost may be, the practice of
tying each one with fancy cord, coloured red and
white, is universal, these two colours being sym-
bolical of the ideal complexion of a young girl.
The ornaments are usually worn tied round the
wrist, with the red and white tassels bobbing about
with every movement. At the end of March the
Mar^isoara is taken off, the ornament carefully
preserved, and the cords hung out on a bush in
order that the dew of heaven may besprinkle them.
The idea is that the Mar^isoara will be efficacious in
giving the wearer cheeks of the much coveted
colouring.

The custom of presenting Mar^isoara in the
month of March is so universal, that not only do
the youthful members of the male community take
advantage of it in presenting to an admired fair
one a gift that at any other time might be deemed

126 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

an impertinence, but also older men frequently
make use of the occasion to give presents in quarters
where they have no right to bestow them. An
amusing instance of the latter kind of indiscretion
occurred in Bucarest some years ago, and became
very literally the talk of the town.

Madame M., a well-known society beauty, had a
husband who was neither rich nor generous. A
Mar^isoara displayed in the window of Resch the
jeweller attracted her attention and she ardently
desired to possess it. It was a beautifully fashioned
trinket of gold, studded with lovely sapphires.
Madame M. pointed it out to her husband, who,
however, absolutely refused to even inquire the
price, as it was sure to be very great. Now the
lady had a bon ami, a very wealthy man, and when
he heard of the difficulty he begged her to accept
the Mar^isoara as a gift from him. She declared
that this would be impossible, as her husband's
suspicions would at once be aroused. The pair,
however, had a little talk over the matter and hit
upon a very ingenious plan.

M. Bon Ami called upon Resch and made a certain
arrangement with him. The price of the ornament
was 2000 francs, so he paid half of that sum to
Resch on the understanding that if M. M. called
to inquire about it he should let him have it for
1000 francs. Armed with this knowledge, Madame
M. returned to the charge, and at length induced her
husband to promise that if the Martisoara could
be obtained for 1200 francs he would buy it. The
good man was a fair judge of precious stones, and
thought it was safe to make the offer, as it would never
be considered. The negotiation must have been an

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 127

interesting one. It was said that Resch acted very
discreetly, and after naming a price which was
calculated not to arouse suspicion, he suffered him-
self to be beaten down to 1000 francs.

There was no more triumphant man in Bucarest
that March afternoon than M. M. On his way
home to delight his wife he could not refrain from
dropping in at the Club to brag about his cleverness.
He had half a dozen men for an audience, and
they were not a bit bored, for this was a genuine
and surprising bargain. All admired the Mar^i-
soara tremendously. Several very much wanted
to obtain possession of it, and it was here that the
complications started. M. M. at first kept his wife,
and the great pleasure he was in a position to afford
her, before his mind, but when one of the party
offered him 500 francs in advance of the purchase
money, his cupidity was aroused and the Mar^i-
soara changed hands.

M. M., however, proceeded homeward without
misgivings. His wife was a sensible woman, and
a clear gain of 500 francs would surely console her
for any little disappointment about the trinket.
He told his wonderful story with glee, and madame
promptly went into hysterics. The poor husband
could only ring the bell, and, whilst restoratives
were being applied, reflect helplessly that there is
no possibility of understanding the ways of woman.

If anyone feels curious as to how the story gained
publicity, I can only say that my long residence in
the country taught me, among other things, that
there are no secrets in Bucarest.

There is another custom connected with the first
nine days in the month of March. Every young

128 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

girl chooses one of these days as her special day, and
whatever the weather may be on that day, it is
supposed to show her character — rainy weather
shows that she is inclined to weep very readily ; dull
weather, that she looks at the gloomy side ; alternate
sunshine and rain, that she is changeable, and so
forth. These nine days are called " Alte Baba "
(old women), while the nine following are reserved
for the men-folk under the same conditions. It used
to be quite exciting to watch the weather conditions
on special days, and very amusing when they tallied
(as was often the case) with the character of a person
who had chosen them.

CHAPTER XVI

English nurses introduce the bath-tub — Matutinal ablutions in a
country house — Abstinence from ablutions a proof of holiness
— The funeral of a Metropolitan : dead prelate in the procession
— Afternoon tea's equivalent in a tomb.

IT is a very pretty sight to see a Roumanian baby
of the eHte start for his daily airing. He is of
course most beautifully dressed, although the little
face often looks very pinched and yellow in the midst
of all the finery. The nurse who wheels the peram-
bulator is usually in costume, consisting of a long
cloak with a hood, a head-dress made entirely of
ribbon, with long streamers a quarter of a yard in
width hanging down behind. If her charge be a
boy, the nurse wears red ; if a girl, blue.

It is very rare indeed for a Roumanian lady to
nurse her own child. A wet nurse is always en-
gaged, who has the entire charge of the little one till
it is weaned. It caused quite a sensation when the
present Queen of Roumania proposed to nurse one
of her children.

Children are not often troubled with baths ; the
washing of the hands and face and an occasional
rubbing with vinegar over the whole body being
considered quite sufficient.

Of late years, many families have engaged Eng-
lish nurses, and although at first the innovation

of open windows and plenty of cold water was

129 9

130 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

regarded with fear and trembling, people now seem
to be growing accustomed to it.

Washing was never greatly in favour, even with
grown-ups, and there are difficulties in the way of
a successful toilet, especially when one pays a visit
to the country.

On entering the bedroom, you wonder where you
can perform your ablutions, as no washing stand is
to be seen, but next morning the mystery is solved.
About eight o'clock a knock is heard at the door, and
a maid enters with a wash-basin and a small jug of
water. The basin being placed on a chair, you are
instructed to hold out your hands, into which the
maid gravely pours some water. If you are clever
enough to catch some of it, you give a kind of wash
to your face, then you hold out your hands for a
fresh supply for the hands themselves. This done,
the maid gathers up her appliances, takes her leave,
and you hear her knocking at the next door to
repeat the performance.

I was paying a visit to the country some years ago,
and my hostess announced one morning, with every
indication of grief, that the Bishop had just died.
" Oh, he was such a holy man," she said ; and she so
insisted on his holiness, that at length I was driven
to inquire what proofs she had of it. " Oh," she
replied, " we know he was a holy man ; just fancy,
he never washed since he was appointed Bishop ten
years ago ! "

Immunity from washing is not the only advantage
over ordinary mortals which the higher clergy
possess. The Metropolitan, for example, is never
buried. His body after death is placed on a sort of
throne and lowered into the crypt of the monastery.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 131

After some months have passed, the dead prelate,
throne and all, is built into a wall.

I have a vivid recollection of the funeral of an
Archbishop which I attended. Indeed, I cannot
conceive of anybody ever forgetting such an experi-
ence. The ceremony was of a most imposing char-
acter. Enormous crowds gathered to witness the
passing of the procession through the streets. A
detachment of cavalry headed the procession, and
was followed by infantry accompanied by a band.
Next came the bier. This was a sort of platform
drawn by six horses. The platform was completely
covered with flowers, and in the centre, arrayed in
ceremonial robes and mitre, sat the dead Metro-
politan. The body was supported on each side by an
attendant, but in spite of their care the dead head
with its ghastly face waggled horribly. I felt terrified
lest the body should topple over altogether.

Behind the bier came officials of the Court,
ministers, deputies, etc. Then more soldiers and
police. But for me the procession contained only
one figure, and that was the dead man sitting in
his chair.

Until a quite recent date, it was the custom to
carry open coffins, with the face of the dead exposed,
in funeral processions.

As a rule, when a person is at the point of death,
a candle is placed in each hand, in order, it is said, to
light the spirit into the next world.

A terrible accident was once caused by this prac-
tice. A widow lady living in the Galea Victoire was
lying dangerously ill ; the doctors had given her up.
The servants by whom she was attended, thinking
her last hour had come, placed, as was the custom.

132 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

a candle in each hand, and then left the house (the
sick are generally left to die alone, even by their
nearest and dearest, Roumanians having such a
dread of witnessing death). The candles unhappily
fell from the poor nerveless hands and set fire to the
bed-clothes, the flames rapidly spreading, as no
check was placed upon them, till, when help from
outside finally arrived, the whole room and all its
contents were entirely consumed. It was dreadful
for me to view even the outside of the ruined house
and to think what scenes may have occurred within.
For long after I was haunted by the idea that the
poor lady might have recovered if she had been well
attended and not left alone as she was.

The regulations with regard to deaths which may
call for an inquiry offer an extraordinary example
of red tape. Should a person fall dead in the street,
the body may on no account be touched until full
reports have been made to a variety of functionaries
and a great number of forms have been signed. The
tedious proceedings may occupy the whole day.
I have seen more than once a corpse lying for many
hours in the middle of a busy thoroughfare, necessi-
tating a diversion of the traffic. On one occasion the
relatives had placed candles round the body. It
was a strange street spectacle.

This is not a cheerful subject, but before leaving
it I must refer to some curious tombs in the cemetery
just outside Bucarest.

The most interesting is that of a young girl who
died some years ago. Her body has never been
buried in the strict sense of the term, but remains in
a large vault which is always open. This vault, to
which one descends by six or seven marble steps, is

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 133

furnished as a reception room. The girl had some
reputation as a poetess, and her favourite books are
placed upon shelves on the wall. Amongst other
things in the room, or vault, is a large globe which she
used in her geographical studies. The hands of
the clock on the wall point to the hour at which she
died. Behind a curtain the coffin rests upon a
marble stand. A lamp placed before it is always
alight. The bereaved father spends hours at a time
in the vault. He declares that he has constant
communication with his daughter's spirit.

On the anniversary of her " names-day," relatives
and friends are bidden to the vault, where they are
entertained with black coffee and dulceata.

Another curious monument is the lifesize effigy of
a lady whose body lies beneath. The figure stands
on a flat tombstone and holds a fan in its hands.
A fan does seem an incongruity in a graveyard.
Attached to nearly every tombstone is the photo-
graph of the person who rests beneath.

CHAPTER XVII

The servant question not so acute as in England — Establishments
of thirty servants — Five or six for professional people — Terms
and duties of service — An unwilling bather — A highly recom-
mended maid who waited at table barefooted — The reference
books of servants — The servants' quarters — A strange privilege :
female servants may have their husbands or putative hiisbands
and their families to live with them — Costly marriage fees are
prohibitive — "Madam" and "Madame" — Linguistic pitfalls : a
" master " or a " cake " ? — When a bald-headed cook is wanted
— Leaving cards on names -days — An omnibus round.

THE servant question is not nearly so acute in
Roumania as it is in England. Servants, of a
kind, are always to be had, though really good ones
are rare. It is generally acknowledged that Hungar-
ians are much better workers than Roumanians,
but in late years the Hungarian nation became
jealous of the constant migration to the adjoin-
ing country (where better wages obtained) and abso-
lutely forbade it.

Probably owing to the fact that the abolition of
slavery only dates back some seventy years or
thereabouts, Roumanian families require the services
of a great number of servants. Prince G., for in-
stance, had thirty servants in his establishment,
although his house was of a very moderate size, not
by any means what one would describe as ''princely."
People lower down in the social scale, such as doc-
tors, engineers, lawyers, etc., generally have estab-
lishments of five or six servants. The conditions of

134

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 135

service are not at all similar to those prevailing in
England. A maid is engaged at a fixed wage of
from thirty francs monthly upwards, and her
dinner. In addition she receives thirty bani (3d.)
a day, which is called bread-money, and with this
she is supposed to provide herself with bread, tea
or coffee, sugar, and anything she may require for
extra meals. Any scraps or broken bread left over
from the table the servants are at liberty to take.
As there are generally a number of them clubbing
their resources, they can feed themselves very well
indeed on these terms. The servants are required
to rise very early, at five o'clock generally, and to
sweep and dust thoroughly all the rooms that have
been occupied the day before. As the floors are of
parquetry in most houses, and the carpets laid
loosely over them, the work is not so very difficult.
Nearly every family has a "randasch," a man-servant
who does the heavy work, beating carpets, cleaning
windows, and such like. Sometimes the randasch
waits at table, but more often it is a parlour-maid.
It depends on the capabilities of the man, whether
he is intelligent or not.

I once visited at a house and noticed that the
randasch was a newcomer. Having remarked upon
it, I was informed that he had only come for a short
time, as in some weeks he was to become a " popa,"
i.e. priest !

A few minutes before lunch or dinner is served
a maid enters the salon bearing a tray on which are
several small glasses of juica and a plate with
tiny bits of bread, which she presents in turn to
each visitor. Tuica (pronounced zweeka) is a
liqueur made from plums, and is supposed to act as

136 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

a stimulant to the appetite. After dinner, when the
guests return to the salon, the maid appears once
more with small cups of Turkish coffee. This
coffee is delicious, and is made exactly as one gets
it in the bazaars in Constantinople.

Servants dress much better of late years ; in
some houses you may even meet maids with caps
and aprons, but it is by no means general. When
I first went to Roumania I was amazed to see the
door of a quite imposing mansion opened by a
creature of rather dirty appearance with a shawl
over her head. Some ladies are lax and do not
insist on either cleanliness or tidiness in their maids.

A Swiss lady of my acquaintance in Bucarest had
great trouble once with a Roumanian maid whom
she had engaged. The rule of this house was that
each maid was to take a bath every week, but the
difficulty was to enforce the rule in the case of this
particular girl. She got out of it when she could,
and when brought to book almost cried and said she
had never been asked to do such a thing in any other
house. Finally the mistress insisted upon the
maid entering the bathroom, she herself remaining
outside the door until the necessary but much
dreaded ablutions had been performed.

I remember once a new maid being engaged at a
house where I was staying. She said she had been
some time with Mme. B. and Mme. N., well-known
ladies in Bucarest society, and so it was taken for
granted that if she had been in such good houses
she would prove a first-class servant. But what was
our astonishment, the first time she came to wait
at table, to see her enter the dining-room with bare
feet ! At first we looked at each other in amaze-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 137

ment, then the comical side of the situation struck
us, and we laughed and laughed till we cried. We
did enjoy our dinner that night, but we were not
waited on by Mme. B.'s late maid-servant.

Servants are not required to have written refer-
ences, but they are furnished by the police authori-
ties with small books in which all particulars re-
garding themselves are recorded, and they are
required to produce these on taking service anew.
These records are always a hold upon them. Should
they have a fancy to go off without permission or
to take with them any property not lawfully theirs,
they can easily be traced by means of these small
books, duplicates of which remain in the possession
of the police.

In very many houses the servants' quarters are
quite apart from the house. Sometimes a small
house in the courtyard is provided for them ; but
even if they do live in the same house as the family,
they occupy rooms which can be cut off from the
rest of the dwelling by merely locking the door of
communication. This indeed is very often done
at night.

Roumanian mistresses never have the trouble of
providing beds for their servants, as everyone
arrives with her own. Bedsteads are provided,
but nothing else. Bed and bedding form, of course,
an indispensable part of the equipment of female
servants, and some of them take pride in having a
good show of pillows with the pillow-cases richly
ornamented with crochet work. But with men-
servants it is very different indeed ; it very often
happens that they have no beds at all ! I heard
once of a young fellow being brought fresh from the

138 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

country to act as " randasch." On the mistress
being questioned by one of her friends as to where
he would sleep, she replied, " Oh, anywhere at all ;
he does not need a bed." Further investigation
showed that he simply lay down on his own little
trunk, and slept there quite well too.

Servants are permitted to have their husbands
with them. They may be husbands only in name,
and indeed very often are, but still no objection is
made about giving them house-room. If the man
has any occupation, he is away all day, only coming
back at night, when his wife will have a meal ready
for him, which is supposed to be provided by
herself. Very often, therefore, there is quite a small
colony housed together in the servants' quarters,
each one with her small family round her. It is very
probable that this custom dates back to the time
when serfdom was still in vogue in the country. I
believe that when serfdom was finally abolished the
step did not please many of the serfs themselves.
They and their families had lived on the estates of
their masters, fed, clothed, and housed, not badly
treated and not overworked; and when they re-
ceived their freedom (the want of which they had
never felt) and were obliged in many cases to look
out for work in order to keep wife and family, they
found their new responsibilities very strange and
did not relish them at all. Their sole disability as
serfs, and one which I think we may imagine did
not trouble them much, was that they were debarred
from having their hair cut !

I have said that very often the marriage ceremony
is dispensed with by the servant class, but this is
not so much their fault as that of the authorities.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 139

Marriage fees are very high in Roumania ; not only
those given to priests, but also the fees required by
the civil authorities. A man, let us say, from the
country wishes to marry in town. He must write
to his own village and get the certificate of his birth
as well as the written consent of his parents, or,
failing these, the consent of his grandparents.
Even if a man is fifty years of age he is obliged to
ask the consent of his parents if he has any. Should
the parents not agree to the match, then he makes
three " sommations." That is, he is required by
law to send three notices with a certain interval of
time between them to his parents, informing them,
first, of his intended marriage, and then of his
intention to persist in the determination. After
the third notice has been sent he is free to marry.

When the different certificates and written con-
sent have finally been procured, they must be
deposited at the town hall and stamped. The
stamping and fees amount to a considerable sum,
so one cannot wonder that a poor couple should
prefer to keep the few francs they possess and
dispense with the marriage tie.

A German maid in a house where I was staying
once told me a pitiful tale. She had come to
Roumania as a quite young girl. After some time
she made the acquaintance of a Roumanian, with
whom she fell in love. As he was not in a very good
position they dispensed with the marriage ceremony
and lived together as man and wife. A young
family grew up around them, and their circum-
stances caused the utmost grief to the girl's poor old
mother in Germany, who felt keenly her daughter's
disgrace. From her poor resources she contrived to

140 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

send 200 marks to enable the couple to get married.
Alas ! the sum was soon swallowed up in the cost
of stamping, translating, etc., of various necessary
or unnecessary papers, and the object remained
unachieved. To the great grief of the poor old
mother in her far-off village home, the situation of
her daughter remained as it was, with no hope of any
change, for whatever money the couple could hope
to make would have to be used for the needs of their
young family.

Good cooks are pretty well paid, receiving 50, 60,
up to 100 francs monthly, but they have also a fair
amount of work to do. Sugar in Roumania is
bought by the loaf, and amongst her multitudinous
duties the cook must see that it is cut into small
pieces. She must roast and grind the coffee daily.
Above all, she must go in good time to market
(some go before 5 a.m.), otherwise the best of the
country produce will have gone.

Servants are very respectful to each other, never
using each other's name without prefacing it with
" Madam." " Madam Anna has gone to market."
" Madam Marie is busy washing just now." It is
very curious that this title of " Madam," as distinct
from "Madame," is almost entirely confined to the
servant class. " Cocanitza " or " Cocoiana," the
Roumanian term for " mistress," is only given to
the lady of the house. The words "Coconash"
(master) and "Cozonac" (a kind of cake), as it
happens, resemble each other in the pronunciation.
A friend of mine, an English lady, sent from time to
time for this cake, as she liked it for tea, but could
not understand why the servant seemed always so
amused, till at last she found out that she had

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 141

ordered her to fetch a Master instead of a cake.
Funny mistakes do occur when one does not know
the language well, as was the case with another
lady. She had a person to work by the day, who,
on leaving, invariably said " Serat mana." The
English lady thought this meant " Good evening,"
and very politely repeated it after her. But she
was obliged to find a substitute for her response
when she learned that the words meant " I kiss
your hand."

I think I must find space for an example of
what I understand has come to be known here as a
" howler." It is really too good to be overlooked.
I once gave a pupil a portion of the fourteenth
chapter of St Mark to turn from French into
English. In her translation I found this gem :
" The ghost is agreeable, but the meat is feeble."

A cake that is very popular in Roumania is one
made of alternate layers of dough and a mixture
of apples, currants, and sugar. It must be made in a
very cool place, and one requires a large table for
the task. When the dough is ready, it is rolled out
very thin, then placed on the table and drawn out
over it at every side till it is scarcely thicker than
paper. The mixture of apples, currants, raisins,
sugar, and spice stands ready, and a portion is
spread over the paste, which is then doubled over
and another layer of the mixture spread upon it.
The process is repeated till the paste has assumed
the form of a great sausage nearly a yard in length.
It is then bent in the shape of a horse-shoe, put into
the oven and baked. When it is cooked, no better
cake could be desired. When I first became
acquainted with this delicacy, I was rather curious

142 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

as to how it was made. I was informed that the
cake could only be made by a bald-headed cook, as
he was obliged to put the paste on his head and draw
it down and outwards in all directions in order to
attain the requisite degree of thinness. Being at
that time ripe for shocks, I suffered some qualms,
but later realised that my Roumanian friends were
not without a certain sense of humour.

One of the duties of a servant is to stand at the
outer gate on his master's names-day, and receive
the visitors' cards. It is very seldom that one
receives on such occasions, and this is so well known
that anyone can be sent just to drop a card at the
house designated.

Cards of congratulation are sent in such numbers
at New Year's Day, for instance, that it is often
quite impossible to post a letter, the pillar-boxes
are so packed. It did not astonish me very much
to hear that one poor postman quite lost patience,
and threw all the letters into the river instead of
delivering them. On such great fete-days it is
almost impossible to get a decent carriage; every
one is engaged hours, perhaps days, before it is
needed. Everybody makes holiday, and when
cards have been left where they are due, then a turn
at the Chaussee is indulged in, or there may be a
marriage at which one must appear.

I remember a gentleman from the country
coming to Bucarest on such a great holiday. As he
was seldom in town he wished to take the oppor-
tunity of paying a few visits. Not a carriage was
to be had, so at last in despair he hired an omnibus
to take him round. Now, the humour of the
situation would not be so apparent to an English

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 143

person. The Bucarest omnibus is not at all " chic."
It is permissible to travel by the tram, but the
omnibus is quite infra dig. ; and so the spectacle
of this gentleman, in kid gloves and tall hat, rattling
up to the doors of various stately dwellings in the
bumping vehicle was comical in the extreme, and
caused much merriment.

CHAPTER XVIII

Convict life in the salt-mines — A Roumanian Jack Sheppard — The
trick that laid him low — Procedure in murder cases — The recon-
struction of the crime — Scant justice for servants : no Habeas
Corpus Act in Roumania — A man whose face was the only
evidence against him — Gipsies and the building trade : the men
act as masons and bricklayers, the women as their labourers —
Exhibition of new clothes when a roof is put on — Fiddling
ragamuffins — Gipsies as musicians — Guarding against gipsies in
the Carpathians.

PRISON accommodation in Roumania is con-
siderably better now than it used to be. The
cells are light and airy, and the prison fare is not
worse than in other countries. Capital punishment
is not inflicted. If a person be convicted of a
capital crime, his sentence will be imprisonment in
the salt-mines for life or for a long term of years.
These salt-mines are situated at Ocna Mare, and it
is quite an interesting experience to pay a visit to
them. Before descending into the depths, visitors
are required to don a large loose overall to protect
their clothes. The descent in the cage is soon over,
and one finds oneself in a large hall hewn out of
the solid salt, which, when lighted up, flashes out
brilliant colours innumerable. The prisoners make
the descent every morning, and stay below for a
certain number of hours for work, after which they
are re-conducted to their prison home. They are
allowed to manufacture small articles of salt, wood,

144

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 145

etc., and stalls are arranged in the eourtyard of the
prison on which these articles are exposed for sale,
the prisoners themselves acting as salesmen.

For a nervous person it is not at all reassuring to
find oneself suddenly in the midst of such sur-
roundings. Some of the prisoners have a very
dogged, obstinate expression ; and when one remarks
among the articles for sale numbers of large, strongly
made knives, one involuntarily begins to wonder
what would happen if the prisoners should each
seize a knife and make a sudden dash for freedom.
Should we be attacked, or should we not ?
Evidently such a supposition has occurred to no
one else; or is it that such precautions have been
taken that a rising on the part of the prisoners is
out of the question ?

Occasionally, however, a prisoner does effect his

escape. Some years ago a noted robber who was

undergoing a long term of punishment succeeded in

getting out of prison. He was rearrested, and again

this modern Jack Sheppard got the better of his

captors, commencing a fresh villainous career, and

it may be remarked that he did not stop at robberies

by any means. The prison authorities became

quite wearied out with this man, so devised a plan

to get rid of him entirely. The last place at which

he was arrested was Galatz, where there is a fairly

large garden. On a certain day and at a certain

hour the public were absolutely forbidden to enter

this garden, a sentry being stationed at each gate

to see that the order was obeyed. The prisoner was

then taken under strong escort to be transferred to

another place of detention, and the way led through

the garden. The guards were chatting and laughing

10

146 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

together, so the prisoner thought it a favourable
moment to elude them. He was a very agile man,
and started off full speed, but had not got very far
when three shots rang out and he was laid low, his
inglorious career ended for ever. It seemed rather
a mean trick; but as the death penalty is never
inflicted, no other means of getting rid of him could
be devised.

What always appeared very strange to me was the
procedure in a murder case, but I believe it is
similar to that adopted in France. If a person be
arrested on a charge of murder, he undergoes a first
examination, and is then taken to the scene of the
murder. Everything is arranged as it is supposed
to have been when the murder was committed.
Even the body of the victim is present. It is
presumed that revisiting the scene and recalling the
terrible occurrence may betray the accused man
into some expression of feeling or even into a con-
fession of guilt. The whole idea is gruesome, and
it seems to me to take an unfair advantage of the
prisoner.

Principles of justice and fairplay are not quite
so developed in the East as in the West. For
instance, a servant who is accused of theft by his
master or mistress gets a good thrashing first of all
at the police-court in order to induce him to confess
his guilt, and also to divulge where he has hidden
the stolen property. It is against all law to act in
such a way, but the servant does not dare complain.

It is not at all a difficult matter for a person who
occupies a high position in the capital to have
another of lesser degree, such as a servant or a
workman, imprisoned. A word to the police, and

TWENTY YEARS IN ROTOIANIA 147

the victim will be arrested and kept perhaps for
days without a charge being brought against him.
But a complaint is never brought forward for false
imprisonment, nor would such a complaint be
considered. A lady of my acquaintance once
engaged a man-servant of rather unprepossessing
appearance. One night after retiring to rest she
was awakened by suspicious noises in the house.
She immediately conceived the idea that this man
of evil looks was bent on actions to correspond. As
she always kept a policeman's rattle near at hand,
she at once rushed to the window and sounded it.
In a few minutes two policemen arrived, and a
house search was instituted. Nowhere could the
man-servant be found, till finally the kitchen was
reached, where he was discovered lying across the
table fast asleep, or pretending to sleep, with a huge
knife beside him. This looked so suspicious that
he was immediately arrested and taken to the
police-court. The lady was asked if she could
accuse him of any wrong-doing, but as she really
had nothing definite to formulate, only suspicions
to go upon, no charge could be made against him.
He was, however, detained for three or four days
before being set at liberty.

In Roumania gipsies form an interesting section
of the community ; they are always employed
where building is going on. The men are engaged
as stone-masons and bricklayers, and execute the
more skilled work, whilst the women act as labourers
and mount the scaffolding with loads on their backs.
At first it was never thought necessary to provide
any kind of dwelling for these gipsies when engaged
on a job— they just lay about anywhere in the open ;

148 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

but finally it became quite a scandal and a source
of danger to the community, so action had to be
taken. A law was passed that anyone employing
gipsies must provide them with proper accommo-
dation, and that sanitary considerations must be
respected.

When the building on which gipsies are employed
arrives at a certain stage, sometimes before the roof
is put on, high holiday is kept. The scaffolding is
decorated with green boughs, among which one
may see new skirts, coats, and blouses fluttering in
the breeze. These are given by the employer, and
are on view for the rest of the day. I think it is the
only time they are on view, as I have never yet seen
a gipsy with new clothes on. They would seem
quite out of place. Rags and gipsies seem somehow
to belong to each other. When no building is going
on, gipsies are often to be seen parading the streets
with a tame bear that can be put through any
number of tricks. One of the gipsies has a weird
kind of incantation to which the unfortunate bear is
supposed to dance. His unwieldy movements, and
muffled growling, as a sort of running accompani-
ment to the music, delight the children, who are
eager to reward the bear's master with all the
coppers they possess.

The gipsies do not seem to be a really lazy race.
When they are at work they are quite active,
singing or whistling if they have not at the moment
the inevitable cigarette end between their teeth. It
is one of the occupations of the gipsy children to
roam about the streets in search of cigarette-ends
that have been thrown away (pipes are seldom used
in Bucarest). These are brought to their parents

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 149

to be smoked to the " bitter end." The women
smoke just as much as the men. Another occupa-
tion for bigger children is to get hold of a rude kind
of violin and to play for the public. It is a sight to
sec one trying to keep up with a tram, fiddling for
all he is worth (no one knows what the tune is), but
keeping a sharp look-out for any bani that may
be thrown to him. He is a comical figure, some-
times wearing neither shoes nor stockings, but with
a long coat reaching half-way down his bare legs.
Sometimes he sports a battered-in hat, but more
often than not his own shaggy curls form his only
head covering.

The little children are picturesque, and they
would delight the eye of an artist. They do
not trouble about clothes at all. It is true that
the little brown bodies are sometimes clothed in
tiny shirts, but more often than not they are
entirely naked. The big black eyes and the little
brown faces crowned by masses of thick brown or
black curls remind one strongly of the types in
pictures by Murillo.

All gipsies have a natural talent for music, and
where it can be developed success is almost sure.
There is, for instance, a gipsy in Bucarest who,
with his band of musicians, is very much sought
after for entertainments. He can command 200-300
francs for a few hours in the evening ; and as festi-
vities are not often wanting, especially in winter,
he must have amassed quite a nice little fortune.
He went with his band to the Exhibition in Paris
some years ago, and aroused great enthusiasm among
the French by his playing. Gipsy music in Rou-
mania has always a vein of melancholy running

150 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

through it, quite different from the Hungarian
music, which is fiery and wild in its character,
showing plainly the untamed spirit of the people.

Gipsies as a class have not a good reputation for
honesty, therefore if any are seen near one's house a
sharp look-out must be kept. I stayed for some
weeks one summer at a little village in the Car-
pathians. Just about twenty minutes' walk from
our cottage there was a gipsy encampment. The
lady with whom I was staying was rather nervous,
and terribly afraid of the gipsies. The forest,
which was very dense, came right down to the back
of our cottage, which was in a rather isolated
situation. Her fear was that the gipsies might hide
in the forest and then attack us at night. Great
precautions had to be taken, doors and windows
carefully closed and barred. The dogs, of which
there are always enough and to spare in the country,
were brought close up to the cottage, and with a
loaded revolver near at hand we considered we should
be a match for the gipsies. But the truth is they
never came to let us prove it.

CHAPTER XIX

King Carol as a diplomat — Lichnowsky as a Secretary of Legation
— The scandal about his chief's (Prince von Biilow) wife — I see
something at Bad Hall — A great ladies' man : he goes too far
at length and is " promoted " to another sphere — Kiderlein-
VVachter, genial and popular — An unfortunate dinner-party
over which his housekeeper presided — Prince Gvilochowski and
his wife — Some British ambassadors : Sir Frank Lascelles and
Sir Charles (now Lord) Hardinge — How the latter rendered me a
great service — Sir Henry Drummond Wolff — Sir John Kennedy
and Lady Kennedy and their family — Better times for the
British colony — The British colony — Its religious interests —
Bishop Collins and his visits to Bucarest — His tragic end deeply
regretted — Since the war Bucarest has many more British
visitors — A British Chamber of Commerce, and a projected club.

THE late King Carol was considered one of the
best diplomats in Europe. Was it because
of this the German Embassy had always more
secretaries on their staff than any other embassy ?
It was the case, at any rate.

Some twenty years ago the present Prince von
Billow was German Minister at the Court of
Roumania. One of the secretaries was the young
Prince Lichnowsky, who ended his career in London
as German Ambassador at the outbreak of war.

Young Lichnowsky was considered to be very
clever, in spite of his abnormally large head (his
hats were always specially made for him) ; and for
a German he was remarkably well groomed, but
one did not wonder at that when one learned that
he had all his clothes from Poole's.

151

152 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

There was a good deal of talk in Bucarest at that
time concerning Lichnowsky's weakness for Mnie.
von Billow, the wife of his chief. As the lady was
considerably older than he, I never gave any
credence to the reports, till some facts came under
my own observation. I was staying for a few weeks
at Bad Hall, a small village in Austria, rather
celebrated for the health-giving properties of its
springs. At the principal hotel Mme. von Biilow
was staying, and in close attendance upon her no
other than Prince Lichnowsky. He was most
attentive, accompanying her to the Casino, to the
springs, and always carrying a formidable array of
wraps, as she was not a very robust woman. After
seeing this, I could no longer disbelieve the stories
that had been current.

Lichnowsky was considered a great ladies' man
in Bucarest, and the most of his time was spent
amongst the fair members of the local society. His
attentions to a certain personage since dead became
so marked, that it was deemed advisable to cut
short his adventurous career, and so he was " pro-
moted," and the society of Bucarest knew him no
more.

Another diplomat was Kiderlein-Wachter, also
German Minister during part of my stay in Bucarest.
He was a genial man and very popular, but it must
be confessed that he was anything but abstemious ;
he did not even confine himself to beer, as most
Germans do.

His household was composed of three or four
servants, a valet, and a lady housekeeper. In
regard to the last-named he rather got into hot
water with the Roumanian ladies. He issued

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 153

invitations for a dinner-party, and, when the guests
arrived and dinner was announced, the head of the
table was taken by the lady housekeeper ! In-
dignation was general among the Roumanians, as,
although they are not at all striet among their own
set, they are very particular as to what they
require from an outsider. The consequence was
that Herr Kiderlein-Wachter could never again
show hospitality to the Roumanian ladies, as
in no case would it have been accepted. Poor
man ! he died a year or so ago at Stuttgart, very
suddenly, I believe.

Prince Gulochow^ski was also in Bucarest some
time before as Austrian Minister. I remember him
as rather short, portly, and wearing bushy whiskers.
His wife was just the contrary. She was thin to
attenuation. Mme. Gulochowski was once present
at the Elisabeth Ball, given at the Royal Theatre
every year. It was the Queen's express desire that
every lady should appear there dressed in Roumanian
costume, as she wished to encourage the national
industries.

One would have thought that Mme. Gulochowski
would have eagerly seized upon the chance of
covering up her thin shoulders, but not she. In
spite of the well-known wish of the Queen, she
appeared in ball costume, most conspicuous as
the only lady present who was not dressed in
national costume.

Of our own diplomats, not a few of our well-
known men spent some time in Roumania.

Sir Frank Lascelles, a relative of the Earl of
Harewood, was English Minister at Bucarest before
being appointed to Teheran.

154 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Our late Viceroy in India, Lord Hardinge, spent
some time there also as charge d'affaires. I always
feel grateful to him for helping me out of a difficult
position. I had been in Russia for some months
and wished to return to Roumania, but no Russian
prefet would sign my passport or give me per-
mission to leave the country. Each one insisted
that I must be provided with a new passport, as it
was not admissible to leave the country with the
same passport that I had on entering it. In my
extremity I wrote to Bucarest, and the sympathy
of Sir Charles Hardinge, as he then was, was enlisted
on my behalf. He did his best for me, even inter-
viewing M. de Fonton, the Russian Minister, with
the result that a prefet was found who signed my
passport.

One may imagine that I did not let the grass grow
under my feet once I had the required permission.
It always seemed so strange to me that permission
to leave Russia was just as difficult to obtain as
permission to enter it.

Sir Henry Drummond Wolff was British Minister
to Roumania for a short time, but his stay was so
brief that scarcely any members of the English
colony ever saw him.

The most popular by far of the British Minis-
ters was Sir John Kennedy, who with his family
remained for some seven or eight years in
Bucarest. The family consisted of four sons and
one daughter. " Pat " Kennedy I refer to elsewhere
as a playmate of Prince Carol. Two of his gallant
brothers fell in the Great War. Miss Kennedy
was, and still is, a great favourite with the Queen
of Roumania.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 155

Sir John and Lady Kennedy with their daughter
(the sons were for the greater part of the time at
school in England) were constant attendants at the
English church services. They took a great interest
in all that concerned the British colony, and were
much kinder and more hospitable than any of their
predecessors.

Of all the foreign colonies in Bucarest the
English was, until a few years ago, the smallest.
The Embassy, a few business men with their
families, a number of governesses, an English
doctor, and a bank manager were the sum total.
There was no English church, but service was held
once every Sunday in a schoolroom of the Jewish
mission, by the missionary to the Jews, who spoke
English remarkably well and had taken orders in
England, although himself of Jewish descent. His
wife was English, and perhaps on that account their
house was the centre of any hospitality that was
shown to the English colony. Very pleasant and
homely were the little meetings that were held at
the vicarage near the school — the working parties
once a fortnight at which garments were made for
the poor Jews, the weekly choir practice, and the
informal afternoon teas.

The visitors were mostly governesses, and what
a delight it was to have a cup of real English tea
and a good chat without being obliged to be on the
qui vive for any mistake that the speaker would
be likely to make (as one had to be when speaking
to one's pupils) ! How one laughed at any little
faux pas made by the native handmaiden, as for
instance one afternoon, when our hostess rang for
another cup and saucer, and the little maid put her

156 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

head into the room to inquire in a hushed voice,
" A clean cup and saucer, Madame ? "

The working parties were always well attended.
Each member cheerfully paid her franc monthly in
order to pay for materials, and no element of
discord was ever present till much later on, when
some fresh arrivals from England took it upon
themselves to cavil at the manner in which the
garments were distributed. These were always
given to the Jewish poor (there were no English
poor in Bucarest), and, as some folk have no love
for Jews, the newcomers protested that the articles
should be distributed to people of all nationalities.
This arrangement was finally decided upon, although
it was quite unnecessary as it turned out. The
German poor were well looked after, the French
also, and it was really only the Jewish poor who
seemed to be in need. Besides, as we were con-
siderably indebted to the Jewish missionary for his
kind help on Sundays, as well as for the hospitality
shown us on every occasion, it was, in my opinion,
only right to help on their work by every means in
our power. At the time of which I speak the
missionary had no remuneration for the English
service on Sundays. In later years an arrangement
was made by which the missionary gave a third
part of his time to the English community, in
consideration for a fixed sum raised by them
annually.

I am glad to learn that an English church has
now been built to meet the needs of the greatly
increased colony.

The English Church in Roumania, as in most parts
of southern Europe, belongs to the diocese of

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 157

Gibraltar. We were visited pretty often by the
Bishop — Bisliop ColUns — who proposed to visit all
parts of liis diocese, which included Smyrna, at
least once a year. Poor man ! he did not live to
carry out very many of his plans. He caught a
severe cold whilst travelling in Russia, but still
insisted on preaching during his stay in Bucarest.
The consequence was that he became seriously ill,
and for a long time had to refrain from any active
work. When his health improved he again resumed
his duties, hoping that a journey to the East would
complete the cure. Great was the pleasure when it
was announced that we might expect a visit from
the Bishop. He arrived, but how changed in
appearance ! he was not the same man. He left
Roumania with the intention of visiting Smyrna.
A great reception was planned for him there, all
the English colony was en fete, and at the hour
when the steamer was expected all those who could
possibly manage it wended their way to the quay.
Alas ! their pleasure was turned into grief by the
news that it was only a dead body they were to
meet — the Bishop had died on board.

The mourning was great throughout the whole
diocese, as Bishop Collins was so greatly beloved.
A charming personality, a student in his tastes
more than an active worker, he had gained the
esteem and affection of all those (preachers and
people) who belonged to his diocese. His wife, too,
had been very much liked. She was his elder by some
years, but they were very devoted to each other.
Indeed, there is no doubt that her death, which
took place only about a year before his own, had
such an effect upon him as to hasten the sad event.

158 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

The war has been responsible for many things.
One of the few good things is that the EngHsh have
at last discovered Roumania. The presence of
British visitors in a Bucarest hotel no longer calls
for comment. A British Chamber of Commerce has
even been established, and a British club is talked
about, and will no doubt soon be an accomplished
fact.

How good it is to know that the British is now
not the smallest but the largest colony !

CHAPTER XX

The French colony — An outspoken abb6 — The German colony —
Its schools, churches, and hospitals — A split in the camp of
deaconesses — Teaching or nursing ? — A well-conducted hospital
— Roumanian hospitals — An eminent surgeon, Dr Thomas
Jonescu — An erratic American dentist — His exclusive practice
— Leaves a Prince waiting with open mouth whilst he goes on
a trip to Sinaia.

THE French are fairly well represented in
Roumania, and they possess a very fine
church in one of the best streets in Bucarest, which
is called " The Cathedral." The Bishop's name
was Hornstein, which seemed to me to sound rather
more like Jerusalem than Paris. Every year, in the
month of May, a priest came from Paris to hold a
kind of mission. For two consecutive years this
duty devolved upon a certain abbe, who aroused
great interst in the town. He was a very short
man of rather insignificant appearance, but very
clever, and decidedly outspoken in his utterances.
The hour of service was 5 p.m., and woe betide the
unlucky worshipper who arrived late. The abbe
would stop, fix his eyes on the latecomer, and then
very coldly point him or her — generally the latter —
to a vacant seat. When quiet was restored, he would
resume his discourse. His methods and style aroused
the curiosity of the people, who flocked in hundreds
to hear him. The Cathedral was always packed,

French, Roumanians, English all being represented.

169

160 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

At first the Roumanians, who are noted for their
unpunctuaHty, were late for the service, but after
one or two experiences they were careful to come
in time. All the little weaknesses of modern society,
such as love of dress, extravagance, the rush after
amusements, were exposed and criticised unmerci-
fully. People never seemed to resent his outspoken
utterances, although in many cases his words must
have gone home.

The French have also some schools, but they are
mostly convent schools, the teachers being monks
or nuns.

The best-known French school in Bucarest is the
" Dames de Sion," the instruction given there being
of a high order, the French language naturally being
predominant. The school is not only attended by
French children ; Roumanians who cannot afford
to send their offspring to Paris, often taking advan-
tage of it.

I knew some girls who went to the " Dames de
Sion," and very curious stories they used to relate
about the greed for money displayed by the nuns.
For example, if a larger table were required in one
of the class-rooms, each pupil would be asked to
bring a certain sum of money to defray the cost.
Constant requests were made to the pupils for small
sums to be used for the decoration of the chapel. A
small statue was required for this niche, a picture
for another ; and as for flowers for the altar, they
were always needed.

This procedure caused a good deal of discontent,
as Roumanians did not see why they should be
called upon to provide decorations for a chapel that
had no connection with their Church.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 161

The expulsion of monks and nuns from France
caused a great influx of both into Roumania, just as
it did, unfortunately, into our own country, so that
more convent schools are now scattered throughout
the country than was formerly the case.

I used to visit one of the convents, as there was
an Irish nun there who attracted me very much.
This convent was called " Die engelische Damen."
Since returning to England I have been much
amused by a description I read somewhere of this
same convent. The sapient writer announced that
it derived its name from the fact that it was founded
by some English ladies in bygone times. Of course,
the German name, which, curiously enough, it has
always borne, means " The Angel Ladies."

Of all the foreign colonies established in Roumania
the German was, before the war, the largest. It
had schools, churches, and hospitals, and the trade
carried on was considerable. There was a very
large girls' school in Bucarest, where German,
French, and English were taught. The children
were not only well taught but well trained. The
German love of order and discipline was observable
in every department. This establishment formed
a striking contrast to the Roumanian schools, where
a good deal of laissez-aller prevails.

Examinations were held once a year, twenty
minutes only being allowed for each subject.
Germans do not consider examinations a great test
of children's knowledge ; they trust more to their
progress during the year.

The school was under the control of the

deaconesses, who undertook the teaching of the

German language, being at the same time nursing

11

162 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

sisters. They came from Kaisers werth, a large
training college and nursing establishment on the
Rhine, in which, by the way, our own Florence
Nightingale gained some of her earlier experience.

At first a very large contingent of deaconesses was
sent to Bucarest, but some years ago there was a
split in the camp. The dispute was as to whether
the teaching or the nursing should predominate.
In the end, it was decided that half the number of
deaconesses should remain at the school, con-
centrating all their energies on teaching, whilst the
other half should open a hospital and devote their
time and energy entirely to the care of the sick.

Sister Ida, who was at the head of the nursing
establishment, was a very clever woman, with a
wonderful power of organisation. Energetic to a
degree, she never rested till she succeeded in open-
ing the hospital, equipped with every modern con-
venience. A small chapel was attached, where their
own German pastor officiated, so that the sisters
were not under the necessity of attending the prin-
cipal German church.

I was rather amused, whilst the dispute referred
to was at its height, to have one of the nursing
sisters remark to me, " Fancy ! the only concession
that we can wrest from the other side is, that when
we die we may be buried in their cemetery ! " It
seemed to me rather meagre comfort.

The boys' school was also well attended. It was
run on strictly German lines, and was under the
supervision of the German pastor. The church,
which was close to the school, was quite a fine
building, standing a little back from the street. It
was a typical German church in its simplicity,

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 163

severe to the last degree, till Queen Elizabeth con-
ceived the fantastic idea of decorating it, and
thereby turned it into a building strongly resembling
a Jewish synagogue. When I entered it for the
first time after it had been decorated I could
scarcely believe my eyes. Was this the German
church ? I asked myself. Galleries, pillars, and
pulpit were hung with crimson velvet on which were
texts of scripture in gilt German characters ! giving
the whole church a tawdry as well as a decidedly
Jewish appearance.

A true German church is simplicity itself, so that
the contrast struck me immediately. How an
artistic woman, as Queen Elizabeth undoubtedly
was, could perpetrate such an outrage upon good
taste passed my comprehension.

The hospital, situated at some distance from the
town, equipped, as I have said, with every modern
convenience, was a boon to all foreigners. There
was better nursing to be had there than
in the Roumanian hospitals, as all the sisters
were well trained. The hospital was visited by
both Roumanian and German doctors ; in fact,
an inmate could have any doctor he wished to
call in.

The food was very good, and plenty of milk was
always to be had. Bui'falo milk, by the way, is very
much used in Roumania ; and although at first one
finds it very rich, still, after becoming accustomed
to it, cow's milk seems poor in comparison.

One thing I have noticed abroad (this is also by
the way) which seems to me worthy of imitation
in England. It is that milk is always boiled. No
one thinks of drinking milk without having it boiled

164 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

first. As milk carries infection so readily, this seems
to me a necessary precaution.

The Roumanian hospitals cannot be held up as a
pattern to other countries, as, in regard to nursing,
they are very much behind-hand. Trained nurses
are unknown. Any woman who applies may be
engaged as " nurse " — the only stipulation being
that she must don cap and apron for the arrival of
the visiting doctors, or for an operation. During
the rest of the day she may wear what she likes.
These attendants, for they are no more, seldom
master even the first rudiments of nursing.

The manager or director of the hospital (not
necessarily a doctor) is allowed so much a head for
the feeding of the patients. If he can contrive to
do it economically, the surplus goes, of course, into
his own pocket.

I went to see a sick friend in the largest hospital
in Bucarest, and the food that I saw for distribution
in the wards was of very inferior quality. My
friend, who had a private room, had everything
sent to her from outside, the medical student who
looked in from time to time advising her not even
to drink the milk provided ; presumably it was too
well watered.

The one redeeming feature of the hospitals is that
they are quite free. No matter of what nationality
you are, you will be attended (and nursed after a
fashion) quite free of charge. If a patient has a
little interest, or knows anyone who will speak for
him, he may even be allotted a private room.

The peasants, who have never had any pampering,
are often quite happy and contented with their treat-
ment at the hospital, and leave the place with regret.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 165

The inefficiency of the hospital nurses is all the
more remarkable when one remembers the high
qualifications and great skill of the physicians and
surgeons of Roumania.

The most eminent surgeon in Bucarest is Prof.
Thomas Jonescu, brother of M. Take Jonescu.
Though not the actual inventor of the anaesthetic
stovaine, it was he who discovered the almost miracu-
lous power obtained by the addition of strychnia.
This wonderful compound, applied locally, absolutely
deprives the patient of sensation in the region to
be operated upon. I heard Prof. Jonescu once
declare that he had cut off a leg whilst the sub-
ject of the operation calmly looked on and made
remarks about the performance.

Everyone who has lived in Bucarest has known
or heard stories of the remarkable American dentist
Dr Y . He was of an extremely taciturn dis-
position, very erratic in his ways and with few
intimate friends. Notwithstanding his peculiarities,
he had the names of the best families in Roumania
on his books, including the late Queen, whose con-
fidence he enjoyed for many years. Probably it
was on this account that he was so very careful as to
new patients. One year he went away for a holiday,
and, on returning, his assistant, who had not been
long in his service, or indeed in Bucarest, proudly
showed him the list of new patients he had gained.

Dr Y took the list, looked through it silently,

and then with his pencil calmly struck out name
after name till very few were left on the sheet. He
returned the list to the astonished assistant with the
remark, *' I do not attend such people."

One of his patients was Prince G , who died some

166 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

years ago. An experience of his with Dr Y

caused great amusement, and it was rather amusing
— to others. At the hour appointed by the doctor.

Prince G arrived and took his place in the

operating chair. After working for some minutes,
the doctor, with a muttered apology, left the room,
leaving Prince G , with his mouth open, moment-
arily expecting his return. As time passed and the
doctor did not reappear, the Prince became im-
patient and rang the bell. What was his amaze-
ment to learn from the servant that Doctor Y

had left for Sinaia !

In spite of his peculiar ways, Dr Y is remem-
bered with pleasure by many people. For one thing,
he made the best plum puddings I ever tasted ! At
Christmas time he made a number of these puddings
and distributed them among the families of his
friends and acquaintances.

CHAPTER XXI

The coming of King Carol — Roumanians dislike the Germans and
TuUe the Hungarians — King Carol a reticent, self-contained,
lonely man- — His only public appearances — A ball for the hoi
polled — King Carol's father his sole adviser — His desire to abdi-
cate— Roumania owes much to the late King.

THE circumstances attending King Carol's com-
ing to Roumania were undoubtedly of a
romantic character. The leading Liberal statesman
at the time of the deposition of Prince Cuza (the
last native ruler of Roumania) was Jean Bratiano,
whose son — similarly named — was Premier during
the early part of the war. Bratiano had completed
his education at the University of Bonn, and this
circumstance, unimportant in itself, was fraught
with great consequences for his country. The
Liberal statesman, comparing German methods with
those to which he had been accustomed in Rou-
mania, fell under the Teutonic spell, and when a new
ruler was required for his country it was toward
the Hohenzollern family he turned his eyes. The
choice ultimately fell upon Prince Carol, a scion of
the Roman Catholic branch of that family.

As it was well known that Austria would object
to any such arrangement, obvious difficulties lay in
the way of conveying the prospective king through
that country. Bratiano hit upon a somewhat

167

168 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

theatrical plan. Inducing Prince Carol to enact the
role of valet, he travelled with him from Vienna.
There were no railways available in those days, and
the whole journey to the Roumanian frontier was
made by steamboat. At the last stopping-place
on Austro-Hungarian soil passports were demanded,
and the German valet, " Anton Klichner," strangely
forgot his name. There was consternation for a
few minutes, and official suspicion was aroused that
all was not as it should be, but Bratiano retained
his presence of mind, and, making it appear that
" Kiichner " was a stupid country lad, gave the
names himself. The danger was averted, and Rou-
mania was reached in safety. The Prince met
with a very good reception from his future subjects,
whose respect he certainly commanded throughout
his subsequent career. From his accession in 1866,
he reigned for some time as " Prince of Roumania,"
and it was not, indeed, until after the battle of
Plevna, when the Roumanians succeeded in com-
pletely throwing off the yoke of the Turks, that he
assumed the title of King. His crown was made of
iron obtained from a cannon captured at Plevna.

How the country developed under the rule of the
late King Carol is generally known. Methods of
transport had hitherto been of an archaic character,
but soon the country was intersected by an effi-
cient railway system. This opened the way for
industrial enterprise, and factories were established
for the manufacture of furniture, glass, cloth, cheese,
etc. These undertakings were chiefly conducted by
Germans, and it is an open secret that the King had
substantial interest in all or nearly all of them.
The comment is frequently heard that the personal

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 169

fortunes of King Carol became vastly improved
after his aeecssion to the throne.

The late King Carol, as has already been indicated,
was very German in his ideas and tastes.

As a Latin race the sympathies of the Roumanians
are naturally inclined to the French. French is the
prevailing language in Roumania, or perhaps I had
better say was, for, as I remark elsewhere, English
is now gaining ground rapidly. French fashions
are followed, French literature is the most widely
read, and it is to Paris that the majority of young
Roumanians are sent to finish their studies.

In no class of society does one find a feeling
favourable to the Germans. Nothing in the German
character appeals to the finer feelings of the Rou-
manians. German is spoken, after a fashion, but no
interest is sho^vn in the study of it, as is the case
where French and English are concerned.

King Carol was a reticent, self-contained man.
In all those long years spent in Roumania he was
never known to have a personal friend. There was
an aloofness about him which was one of his dis-
tinguishing characteristics, and he never seemed to
unbend. I have been frequently told that when he
accorded an audience he never sat down during the
interview, even although it might last an hour. The
visitor was therefore obliged to stand also. It was
very seldom that the King was seen at any public
gathering or entertainment — indeed, never save when
his presence was absolutely necessary.

During the winter three public balls were given
at the Court, besides more informal dances and
soirees. The first ball of the season was given on
New Year's Day, and to it anyone could go. It was

170 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

only necessary to write one's name in the " Con-
gratulations Book " provided at the entrance of the
Palace, and an invitation was at once forwarded.
These gatherings were most amusing, the wives of
butchers and bakers wearing the most extravagant
toilets. The crush was tremendous, and reached
its culminating point when supper was announced.
Then each one's aim was to get downstairs as quickly
as possible in order to get a good place at table.
Elbows were freely used to force a passage ; common
courtesy was not even thought of. What the King's
thoughts were at such a sight it would be interesting
to know, but they were never divulged. The Court
of course had a table apart. The crush was so great
that dancing was well-nigh impossible, and, as all the
available seats in the ballroom were quickly occu-
pied, it speedily became very tiresome for those who
were obliged to stand.

An acquaintance of mine told me that as she was
very tired on one of these occasions her husband
asked a lackey to fetch a chair. To their astonish-
ment he replied that it was impossible to do so, as the
King had given strict orders that chairs were not to
be moved from one room to another. It seems
strange that a King should trouble himself with
such details.

Although the King was a splendid horseman, he
was rarely seen on horseback, except on the 10th of
May, when the great review was held ; then he always
rode from the Metropole (Cathedral) surrounded by
a brilliant suite, to the Boulevard, where the march-
past took place. As for walking, the King was never
seen on foot, in the town at any rate. All such exer-
cise was, I believe, taken in the park at Cotroceni,

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 171

the residence of the Crown Prince and Princess,
situated about two miles distant from the capital.

In truth the King lived a lonely life, only being
seen by the public when some function required his
presence. He was a born soldier, and brought the
army up to its present state of efficiency. The
government of Roumania was by no means an easy
task, and so the King must have found, as has been
seen by some letters of his to his father which were
published a year or two ago. His father seems to
have been his constant friend and adviser in all diffi-
cult moments, and that his advice was always good
has been seen in the light of later events.

Several times King Carol thought of abdicating,
but, his father strongly opposing such a step, he
practised patience, and luckily for the country re-
mained at the head of affairs till the last. Roumania
owes much to King Carol — its progress, prosperity,
and present position as an advanced and enlightened
country.

CHAPTER XXII

Queen Elizabeth (Carmen Sylva) — An early dilemma: no divorcees,
no Court — A quaint divorce story— The true story of the meet-
ing of Carol and Elizabeth — Did she love the country or its
King ? — Her dead child's tomb — The Queen as a writer — Her
passion for music — Pity the poor professional ! — Cold sovip for
the King — The Queen's personal appearance — Her asylum for
the blind, and the German manager who failed — " My Sixtieth
Birthday," and how it was spent — The Queen and the enfants
terribles — The orphans of the " Asyle Helene " — Cotroceni and
its unlucky palace.

ON adopting the responsibility of a reigning
Queen, Carmen Sylva was faced with the pro-
blem of who should be entitled to visit at Court.
In talking the matter over with the Court Chamber-
lain, she expressed the wish that no lady should be
invited to Court who had been divorced. Great
was the amazement of the Chamberlain. " But your
Majesty could never form a Court under those con-
ditions," was his quick reply. Finally, after much
discussion, the decision was arrived at that no lady
who had been divorced more than twice should be
eligible for Court entertainments. I think this little
fact (for it is a fact) sufficiently demonstrates how
very lightly marriage ties were then thought of in
Roumania ; and I mvist confess that things are not
very much better in these days, as divorces are still
sought under the most trivial pretexts. Incompati-
bility of temperament is frequently accepted as a
sufficient plea.

172

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 173

If a man divorce his wife or is divorced by her,
the law allows him to marry again but not to marry
the same woman. This very often gives rise to
piquant situations. Sometimes a man after a few
weeks' separation realises the truth of the aphorism,
" Absence makes the heart grow fonder," and yearns
to return to his first love. He is met, however, by
the stern decree of the law, " Thou shalt not." Being
unable to alter the law, he frequently takes unto him-
self his former helpmeet, and lives with her without
the sanction of Church or State.

A rather amusing case came under my own obser-
vation some years ago. A professor of one of the
colleges was betrothed to a young girl whom I knew
intimately. They seemed mutually attracted (not
always the case in Roumanian marriages), and as the
relatives on both sides seemed equally pleased, every-
thing went as merrily as the proverbial wedding bell.
The house was taken, furnished, and decorated.
This is always the work of the bride, and is carried
out at the expense of her parents, as the bridegroom-
elect is not supposed to contribute anything towards
setting up housekeeping. The marriage took place,
and a great reception was given at which champagne
flowed freely. All seemed to go well for some months,
then the first little rift in the lute appeared. Vague
stories were heard that all was not in harmony at
the professor's ; then, later on, that the couple were
going to seek a divorce. They not only sought it,
but obtained it, the lady returning to her parents,
and the gentleman resuming his former bachelor life.

All this may seem commonplace enough, but the
sequel was a curious one. The summer holidays
were approaching, Madame longed to travel, but to

174 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

travel alone was not to be thought of. Her former
husband was approached on the subject. He agreed
to accompany her ; the details of the journey were
arranged, and they started off together. One might
have thought that they would have been quite re-
conciled to remain together after that. Not at all.
On their return, they calmly said " Good-bye " to
each other, she once more returning to her parents,
and he to his bachelor quarters.

The romantic story of how the Prince of Roumania
met Princess Elizabeth of Neuwied at the palace
in Berlin, and caught her in his arms as she was
falling downstairs, has been so often denied by
the late Queen, that it is unnecessary to refer further
to it here.

The real meeting came about in this wise.
Princess Elizabeth was staying at Cologne with her
mother for a short time, and one evening arrange-
ments were made to attend a concert. In the course
of the afternoon the Prince of Roumania called on
the two ladies, to the great delight of the Princess.
She plied him with questions about the country
and people, and listened eagerly to everything
that he could tell her. So interested was she that
concert and everything else were forgotten — she
could only think and talk of Roumania.

On being told later that the Prince of Roumania
sought her in marriage, she readily consented, not,
I think, so much from love of the Prince as from
interest in his country. One child was the result
of the marriage, a little girl named Marie, who died
at the age of five from an attack of scarlatina. This
was a great grief to the parents, especially to the
Queen, who was passionately fond of children. She

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 175

had the child buried in the park of Cotroceni, a
palace at a short distance from Bucarest. The
tomb erected there is of white marble, and repre-
sents the child asleep in her little bed. The cover-
let seems to have become disarranged, and one little
foot is showing. It is a pretty idea, and has been
remarkably well carried out by the artist. The
tomb is surrounded by a high railing, and is
always guarded by a policeman.

The late Queen of Roumania was an extremely
gifted woman,- an authoress, linguist, painter, and
musician. She has been well known to the literary
world under the pseudonym Carmen Sylva, derived
from the Latin words for " song " and " forest."

Her books. Deficit, Letters from the Battlefield,
Thoughts of a Queen, are extremely interesting.
But music was a passion with her. A violinist
or pianist who decided to come and give a
concert at Bucarest was sure of an enthusiastic
welcome from the Queen. He would be summoned
to the palace to play for her Majesty, but his
difficulty would be to get away again.

She would be so entranced in the music, asking
for one piece after another, that the poor tired
musician would barely get away in time for the
evening concert. Sometimes the performance at
the palace was not quite private ; the Queen would
issue a number of invitations to a matinee. On one
of these occasions a friend of mine was present, and
she gave me a most amusing account of the affair.
The matinee continued till far into the evening, the
Queen, as usual, asking for " one more sonata,"
till the King (who wisely absented himself from
such frivolities), feeling the want of his dinner, lost

176 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

patience. A lackey entered and announced to her
Majesty in a low tone that dinner was served. She
nodded smilingly but did not move. A second
time the unlucky man was obliged to appear,
but it was not till the King had sent three times
to say that the soup was on the table that
the Queen reluctantly decided to dismiss her
guests.

The late Queen was also a poetess of no mean
order, composing sonnets at odd moments — some-
times even during the night if she were in a wake-
ful mood. The King would then be awakened
from a sound sleep to pass judgment upon the
work.

After that, one will not be astonished to hear
that the King of Roumania had a sweet temper.

As a young girl, the Queen, as her photographs
show, was very pretty, with fair hair and rosy
cheeks—the usual type of German beauty. In later
life she became very stout, and with her extremely
red face framed in perfectly white hair she presented
a rather remarkable appearance. She never wore
either hat or bonnet, simply a lace mantilla thrown
carelessly over her head.

One never saw her without a smile on her face,
so that one could not help wondering if it were still
there during her sleep. She had very affable
manners, and could be extremely charming.

Now, one must not think that the Queen was only
artistic. That is not so ; the practical side of her
character was seen from time to time. At the time
of the war against Turkey her Majesty did splendid
work. Ladies were invited to the palace to help in
making bandages, others in making garments ; a

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 177

regular scheme of practical aid for the soldiers was
organised by the Queen.

She also founded an asylum for the blind. In
former times blind persons were allowed to get
their living as best they could, by begging or other-
wise ; but the Queen's scheme provided them with
food and lodging, and at the same time they were
taught a useful trade. Subscriptions from abroad
poured in (who could refuse a Queen ?), and I
believe Andrew Carnegie was a generous subscriber.

Unfortunately, as time went on, unpleasant
rumours about this blind asylum were rife in town.
When its affairs came to be examined, it was found
that the superintendent (a German) had been guilty
of gross mismanagement. It was a great shock
to the Queen, as she had fully trusted the German.
The King was very much annoyed about the
affair, and insisted on the Queen giving up all
active participation in the asylum.

One felt rather sorry for King Carol at times. He
was so reticent, self-contained and controlled, that
he must have found extremely galling the annoying
affairs into which he was constantly drawn by the
great activity or enthusiasm of the Queen.

She was, as the Germans so happily express it, a

little uherspannt. I shall never forget the time she

attained her sixtieth year. On this occasion she

penned an article entitled " My Sixtieth Birthday,"

which was published in all the papers. In it she

expressed her joy that she had now attained her

sixtieth year, as all the storms and troubles of life

were happily behind her. She then went on to

relate how she had spent this happy day. In the

evening she had gone to the theatre ; on returning

12

178 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

home her Httle deaf-and-dumb maid, whom she had
brought with her from Germany, was hidden under
the table, and from there discoursed sweet music
from a musical box. All the Queen's little kittens
were decorated with new ribbons for the occasion ;
whilst on the table and chairs were the presents
that had arrived during her absence. Much time
was taken up examining all these treasures ; then
after another tune from the musical box, and a last
kiss for the kitties, she prepared to go to rest in a
small room adjoining her boudoir. She was anxious
to tell us that she never disturbed the King when
she came in late. This was very considerate of her,
but probably he lost enough rest when she was
seized with her fits of poetic inspiration.

As I have already remarked, the late Queen was
very fond of children, and always happy when
surrounded by them. But there were moments of
anxiety for their elders, as the little mites could not
be expected always to exercise discretion.

A lady whom I knew had been in Paris for a
few years with her husband. On returning to
Bucarest the Queen expressed a wish to see her
little boys. The children were taken to the palace
and presented to her Majesty, who caressed them
and made a great fuss over them. In the course of
conversation she inquired, " Now, children, what
did you think about me when you knew you were
coming to see a Queen ? What did you think I
should be like ? " To the dismay of the mother,
a clear treble voice piped out, " I didn't think you
would be so old." The Queen, however, took it very
well, merely remarking, " But grandmamma is also
old." " Oh no," objected both children; "grand-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 179

mamma is not old ; she hasn't white hair Hke you."
One may imagine the rehef of the children's mother
when the audience was at an end.

Children loved the Queen. The present charge-
d'affaires, M. Boerescu, was a courtier even in his
childhood. When quite a little chap the Queen
kissed him one day. For nearly a week he would
not let the spot be washed.

At one side of the park, Cotroceni, there stands
a fine handsome building named " Asyle Helene "
after its foundress, Princess Helene Cuza. It is a
school for orphan girls, in which they receive instruc-
tion and are trained for domestic service. The girls
are also taught embroidery and fine needlework,
and the specimens they turn out are really very
creditable to them. Should one of their number
receive an offer of marriage and the young man
prove to be a suitable parti, consent is willingly
given and the necessary arrangements made by
the authorities of the orphanage. The bride-elect
is not only supplied with a complete trousseau,
but is also the recipient of a certain number of
articles for use in her house.

The late Queen took great interest in the girls of
the " Asyle Helene," and arranged many little treats
for them from time to time, in consequence of which
she was greatly beloved. As I have already men-
tioned, the Queen's little daughter, Princess Marie,
lies buried in the park of Cotroceni, " placed," as
the Queen herself said, " in the care of the orphan
girls of the Asyle Helene."

The park itself is of considerable extent, and con-
tains some fine trees. The palace stands on an
eminence commanding a good view of the town ;

180 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

indeed, from the windows of Queen Marie's boudoir
one can see straight up the Boulevard for a con-
siderable distance.

The late King and Queen were very fond of Cotro-
ceni, and frequently stayed there. In their time it
was a simple country house, with long French
windows opening out on the parterres of flowers in
front.

On the marriage of Prince Ferdinand the old
house was razed to the ground and a newer and
more pretentious residence erected which was
specially intended for the use of the young couple.
Cotroceni, unfortunately, has never proved a very
healthy site. Even at the time of the rebuilding
of the palace the workmen were constantly being
attacked by malaria. It was at Cotroceni that the
present King was, many years ago, attacked by
typhoid fever, when his life was despaired of. The
latest tragic occurrence at the unlucky palace has
been the lamented death of little Prince Mircea,
when typhoid again made its dreaded presence
manifest.

CHAPTER XXIII

Ferdinand of Sigmaringcn becomes heir to the throne — He is a good
soldier and a favourite with his officers- — The friend of the
Allies — His marriage with Princess Marie — The Princess's
home-coming : a lonely stranger — A gala performance — The
Prince's mission to Germany — Roumanian officers meet half a
dozen Herr " Mahlzeits."

AS the late King Carol of Roumania had no
children (his little daughter having died
young), he chose, with the consent of the Roumanians,
his nephew Ferdinand of Sigmaringen as his successor.
The latter, like his uncle, was a Roman Catholic, and
to this the Roumanians made no objection, only
stipulating that in the event of his marriage his
children should be baptised into the Greek Church
— a very natural condition, I think.

The present King of Roumania has many charac-
teristics of his race, is a great stickler for etiquette
and a good soldier, but is not so versed in the art of
diplomacy as King Carol. On account of his sol-
dierly qualities he is a great favourite with the
officers of his army. His accession to the throne
was not looked forward to with universally confident
feelings, but he has surprised most people by the
manner in which he has adapted himself to the
position. He carries himself much more assuredly,
and has a dignified bearing that impresses the Rou-
manians. He was, I believe, entirely at one with
his people as regards the late war.

181

182 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

He married Princess Marie of Edinburgh, and well
do I remember the day of the bride's entrance into
Bucarest. It was an awkward moment for her
arrival, as Queen Elizabeth was just then absent
from the country and there was really no one to
initiate her into the mysteries of Court life in
Roumania. It was said that the Duchess of Edin-
burgh had wished her daughter to be accompanied
by an English maid-of-honour ; but on that point
King Carol was very obstinate, and would not allow
it on any account. It must have been a lonely time
for the young girl of seventeen, in a strange country
and surrounded by strangers. Even the King and
Prince Ferdinand came under this description, as I
believe she had seen very little of them before her
marriage.

The day of her state entrance into the capital
was one of great excitement. The streets were
decorated ; a profusion of flowers was in evidence,
and of course the national colours, red, blue, and
yellow, were to be seen everywhere. I had a place
on a balcony near the royal palace, from which I
had a splendid view.

Everyone was eager to see the Princess, and as the
time approached for the procession to leave the
railway station the excitement became intense.
Finally some mounted police made their appearance
in order to clear the way, after them a detachment
of cavalry, then at last the royal carriage. It was
a state carriage, glass on all sides, and it was simply
embowered in flowers. Princess Marie, looking
rather pale and scared, was seated beside King Carol,
whilst Prince Ferdinand occupied a back seat. It
seemed rather hard lines for the newly-made hus-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 183

band to be relegated to a solitary back seat, but
naturally it could not be arranged otherwise in the
Queen's absence. The procession went straight to
the Metropole, where the marriage service was per-
formed for the third time. In the evening there
was a gala performance at the National Theatre.

Some friends and I shared a box, from which we
had a good view of the royal box. Princess Mane
looked charmingly sweet and girlish, with her tur-
quoise ornaments on throat and hair. Prince Fer-
dinand on this occasion had a front seat, as the King
was not present. The latter very rarely attended a
theatre.

When the present King was simply Prince Fer-
dinand, he was sent on a mission to Germany by
King Carol. In his suite were three or four officers
who had no acquaintance whatever with the German
language.

On the day of their arrival at S the Prince and

his suite were entertained to a banquet by the
officers of the garrison. The Roumanian officers
entered the anteroom before the Prince appeared,
and were somewhat at a loss. Now all travellers
know that Continental people in such circum-
stances introduce themselves by mentioning their
names. Those acquainted with Germany will also
know that the invariable greeting at dinner is
" Mahlzeit," an expression which, whilst it literally
means " meal-time," is really equivalent to bon
appetit. So it came about that when a German
officer with his hand on his heart approached a
Roumanian, and bowing said " Mahlzeit," the latter
responded with " Bibeseu," as he warmly shook
hands. To the greeting " Mahlzeit," tendered by

184 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

another of their hosts, a second Roumanian officer
murmured " Greciano," and Florescu and others
followed suit.

Later, in conversation with Prince Ferdinand, the
puzzled Roumanians commented upon the curious
fact that their hosts all belonged to the same family
and bore the name of " Mahlzeit." The officer who
told me the story said that when the Prince fairly
understood what had occurred he roared with laugh-
ter. " I have never," my friend said, "seen the Prince
so relax his reserve. He simply could not contain
himself for some minutes, and for a long time he
made a point of greeting us with ' Mahlzeit ' upon
every possible occasion."

CHAPTER XXIV

Tho Princess in a merry mood — How Prince Ferdinand deluged the
tablecloth — A curtain lecture for Princess Marie ? — The royal
children — Elizabeth a beauty — Mignonne (Marie) " a beautiful
little snow-maiden," yet piquant and merry — Ileana of the china-
blue eyes has a great idea of her own importance — Prince Carol,
a fine fellow, learns politeness — He and Elizabeth eat raw carrots
in the Minister's garden — A war game with Pat Kennedy, when
neither woiild be a Boer — Pretty Prince Nicolas, " a little
terror " — Nicolas as a sailor — His watch on deck and his sea-
strut — An adventure at Piraeus — A sailor valet — Nicolas 's first
communion and his struggle with the bread — The royal gover-
nesses— A little story about the Queen of Holland.

PRINCESS MARIE must often have been amused
at the German habits of the people by whom
she was surrounded. Although King Carol was so
firm in not allowing her to be accompanied by even
one English lady-in-waiting, that did not prevent
him from surrounding himself with Germans. To
a large extent the etiquette of the Court was German,
and unrefined German practices were frequently
observable at table.

As many people are aware, they had a horrid
habit in the highest circles in the Fatherland of
rinsing the mouth at table after eating, and then
ejecting the water into a finger-glass. On the
occasion of a big dinner-party, a few weeks after the
marriage, Princess Marie was in a gay mood. Seeing
her husband perform the customary mouth ablution,
and prompted by a spirit of mischief, she raised her

185

186 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

finger and poked it into his distended cheek. Tab-
leau ! The water spurted across the table, and there
was something like consternation for a moment or
two. For my own part, I was rejoiced when the
scene was described to me by a friend who was pre-
sent. It showed that the poor little lonely Princess
had not lost her spirit. Prince Ferdinand had sense
enough not to appear angry, whatever he may have
felt, but the King was inexpressibly shocked.

The present King and Queen have now five chil-
dren, two sons and three daughters, all of them
handsome, as might be expected with such handsome
parents.

Princess Elizabeth, the eldest girl, now the wife of
the Crown Prince of Greece, is a great beauty, with
perfect features and lovely fair hair.

Princess Marie (the second girl), or Mignonne, as
she is affectionately called, was a beautiful little snow-
maiden. She is quite healthy, I believe, but one
cannot help being struck with the perfect whiteness
of her skin ; her hand lies in yours like a snowflake.
Her nose is of the retrousse type, and, together with
a merry pair of grey eyes, gives a piquant expression
to her face.

The youngest girl, Ileana, is also fair, with china-
blue eyes. Even as a very young child she had a
great idea of her own importance, and if the person to
whom she was presented did not please her she
could not be induced to be pleasant. At the garden
parties at Sinaia it was most amusing to watch her
parading about among the guests with quite a con-
sequential air, and she was not much more than a
baby then.

Prince Carol, the eldest son, recently married to

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 187

Princess Helene of Greece, is a fine fellow, though I
dare say he is much changed since the days when
it was his greatest delight to get with his sister
Elizabeth into the garden of M. Costinescu, Minister
of Finance, and eat raw carrots ! Well, I dare say
they did them no harm, as no complaint has ever
been made of their digestions.

At that time Prince Carol's playmate was little
Pat Kennedy, the youngest son of Sir John Kennedy,
the English Minister. Usually they agreed very
well together, but one day (it was during the Boer
War) King Carol happened to pass through the
apartment where the children were playing. To his
surprise a heated discussion was taking place. On
inquiring the cause of the dispute, he found that they
wished to play soldiers, but neither of them would
consent to be a Boer !

The King soon settled the point ; he ruled that as
Pat was English, he must act the English soldier,
while Prince Carol, greatly to his disgust, was
obliged to take the part of a Boer. He exclaimed,
" I don't care. I have an English mother anyhow."

Prince Nicolas, the second son, named after the
Czar of Russia, is a nice boy. When tiny he was
almost too pretty for a boy. He was, however, a
real little terror.

At the afternoon teas at the palace he was occa-
sionally present with his brother and sisters. He
would offer cake with such insistence that one was
obliged to take some whether one wished it or not. I
remember an acquaintance of mine being asked
to recite at one of the Princess's " At homes." All
the time she was reciting she was intently watched
by Prince Nicolas. Immediately she had finished.

188 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the little imp placed himself in front of her and
faithfully imitated every one of her gestures, to the
great amusement of the assembled company, but
rather to the confusion of my friend.

Prince Nicolas was thought to be rather delicate,
and was frequently ordered to take sea voyages, much
to his delight, as he was very fond of the sea. On
one of those voyages, a few years ago, a small adven-
ture befell him. Princess Mignonne and he, accom-
panied by a confidential maid, embarked on a
Roumanian steamer bound for Greece. Some friends
of mine, M. and Mme. Nacescu and their daughter,
who were also on board, gave me an interesting
account of hoAV Prince Nicolas comported himself.
A thorough little sailor, he could be seen strutting
the deck whatever the weather, generally with a
huge chunk of bread sticking out of his pocket, at
which he nibbled from time to time. Whilst the
ship was lying at the Piraeus, the port of Athens,
the Greek military authorities took it into their
heads that a soldier who had deserted was con-
cealed on board.

There was a great hubbub, as both Greeks and
Roumanians are always quick with their tongues.
During the search that was made of the steamer,
and the heated altercations which accompanied it,
the royal children were kept closely to their cabin.
The deserter was not found, so the Greeks were per-
force obliged to withdraw. On the children regain-
ing their freedom, little Prince Nicolas was heard to
exclaim, " When we get back to Roumania and
send a lot of our men here, then these Greeks will
see something ! "

He took a great fancy to one of the sailors on

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 189

board, and, as he would not be separated from him,
the sailor was obliged to attend him on his return
home as a sort of valet.

I met them in the woods at Sinaia one day, and it
was most amusing to watch their proceedings.
Princess Mignonne, Nicolas, and the maid were
in front, the sailor some paces behind. The last-
named was carrying something for the Prince — a knife,
I believe ; and he must assuredly have wished himself
back on his ship to have a little peace. Nicolas
would give him the knife to carry, then after a few
steps he would turn and take it from him. This
play was kept up till the children were out of sight,
and I dare say it was contmued much longer.

One Sunday all the royal children were at the
monastery in Sinaia for service. It is the custom
in the Greek Church for all children, whatever their
age, to take the communion. Bread only is par-
taken of ; the forehead is touched by the priest with
a little brush dipped in oil ; the communicant kisses
the priest's hand, and the ceremony is ended.

Prince Carol, as the eldest, went up first to par-
take, the others following according to age. Little
Nicolas, the youngest, was of course last, and, being
in a panic lest he should be left there alone, he seized
in his haste such a large piece of bread, that as they
were filing out of church he could still be seen sur-
reptitiously stuffing his finger into his mouth in
an effort to facilitate its passage.

And now Nicolas is a big boy at Eton. I wonder
if he retains his nautical tastes.

When the royal children were of an age to begin
lessons, the first governess they had was an Irish
lady, Miss F , of whom the little ones were very

190 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

fond. Princess Marie, at a later period, went to
Germany on a visit to her mother, the Duchess of
Edinburgh, and upon her return she found that Miss

W , an Enghshwoman and a former governess

of the Queen of Holland, had been installed as gover-
ness to the children. It was said that she had been
appointed by King Carol. Princess Marie certainly
took umbrage at the arrangement, and said that
she herself was the proper person to decide who
should be the governess of her children. She never
rested till Miss W was relieved of her charge.

I may be forgiven for relating here a little anecdote
of Miss W — -'s experiences at the Court of Holland.
It appears that on one occasion the present Queen
had incurred the displeasure of her governess, and
as a punishment she was told to draw the map of
Europe. This she did, but not restricting herself to
the actual features of the map, she drew it to suit her
own ideas, and probably with a spice of revenge
governing them. When the map was finished
Holland appeared in it a vast country, whilst Eng-
land was the merest speck in the ocean.

The next governess to be engaged for the royal

children of Roumania was Miss M , who educated

the children of the Duke and Duchess of Connaught,
and gained a great deal of credit through the social
success of those charming sisters.

CHAPTER XXV

Winter in Roiimania — Fetes on the ice — An " escaped bear " causes
a sensation, till he loses his head — Prince Carol establishes the
bob-sleigh as a society craze — An unlucky accident to Princess
Elizabeth — An end to bob -sleighing — Sleighs and winter cos-
tumes— Cliristmas — New Year's Eve,

WINTER is a very agreeable season of the year
in Roumania for persons who enjoy good
health and for whom frost and snow have no
terrors. The cold is very severe at times, but the
brilliant sunshine and the bright blue sky overhead
compensate for the lowness of the temperature.
The winter scene is seldom without snow, which
lies deep on the ground ; and although the law
demands that each householder must clear it away
from before his door, the regulation is rarely enforced.
Indeed, I noticed that it was seldom cleared away
from before the Prime Minister's own door, and I
did think that perhaps example would have been
better than precept. However, the snow remains
on the pavements for days, till a good hard frost
comes to solidify it, and only then, when it is abso-
lutely dangerous to life and limb, do the authorities
send out men with pickaxes to clear it away. It
very often happens that, during this process, the
pavement becomes cracked or broken, but that is
all in the day's work, and will give employment to
someone else.

191

192 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Skating is a very popular amusement, and some
very fine figure-skating has been seen on the lake in
the small park of Cismegiu, but the ice is not so well
cared for, as, for example, in Vienna. The cracks
are never filled up, nor is the ice well swept.
Cigarette-ends and burnt-out matches are often to
be found lying about, so that skaters must go
warily if they wish to avoid a nasty fall.

Sometimes in the evening fetes are arranged,
when fancy dress is worn, and the scene is very
brilliant and animated when the skaters in their
varied costumes are to be seen gliding gracefully
round the decorated pond to the lively music of the
band. I have seen some wonderfully effective
costumes on such occasions— Russians with coats
heavily befurred. Chinamen sailing along with
pigtails flying, dainty little Japanese ladies with
innumerable pins in their high coiled-up hair, and
always, of course, Mephistopheles playing his usual
part.

But what caused real excitement on one occasion
was the appearance amongst the skaters of a huge
Russian bear, who floundered about on the ice in
most unwieldy fashion. His advent caused tremen-
dous excitement, people imagining that it was a real
bear which had escaped from captivity. Ladies
flew from the furry monster shrieking — and, alas !
not ladies only. When the bear, with huge extended
arms, attempted pursuit, panic ensued, and there
were loud cries for someone to shoot the animal.
In the midst of the excitement. Master Bruin took
off his head and revealed the laughing face of

M. J , a well-known figure in the society of

the capital. The effect was electrical. Roars of

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 193

laughter were heard on every side, and throngs
surrounded the bear impersonator, congratulating
him upon the success of his joke. Ultimately he
was made to resume his head and was carried round
the ice in triumph.

Ski-ing is practised to some extent, but is not
nearly so popular as skating. The country in the
neighbourhood of Bucarest is not suitable for the
practice of the Scandinavian sport.

Prince Carol had, I think, become acquainted with
the bob-sleigh through some friends who had been
to Switzerland ; at any rate, he became such an
enthusiast on the subject that he would not rest
satisfied until a course was laid at Sinaia. So it
came about one winter that bob-sleighing was the
latest society craze. The starting-point was situ-
ated at a spot high up in the woods beyond the
palace, and the course led down by many sharp
curves and bends to the bridge over the river Pelesch,
thence the winding route descending to the main
road. A telephone was installed, so that notice
of the arrival of a sleigh at the terminus could be
given before another was permitted to start. The
course was also guarded by soldiers to prevent
imprudent spectators from running into danger.

The pleasure-loving Roumanians spared no ex-
pense over their new hobby. Bob-sleighs were
procured from Switzerland at a cost of about £25
each, all the other necessaries were provided, and
arrangements made without regard to expense.

Prince Carol and his friends were an enthusiastic
and a merry crew, the spice of danger adding a zest
to their enjoyment of the sport.

One unlucky day, however, an accident occurred

13

194 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

which put a sudden end to bob-sleighing at Sinaia.
It chanced that a sleigh in which Princess Elizabeth
was a passenger got into difficulties half-way down
the track and became deeply embedded in the snow.
The efforts to extricate it took time, and the
occupants of the next sleigh becoming impatient,
started on their downward career without awaiting
the signal that all was clear. The horror of the
helpless passengers in the royal sleigh may be
imagined when they saw sleigh number two charging
down upon them at furious speed. A collision
seemed inevitable, and fatal results would most
likely have ensued had it not been for the presence

of mind and gallantry of Dr C , who steered the

second sleigh. Without a thought of the dreadful
risk he ran, he turned his car into the face of the
granite rock which bounded the course at this point.
His own face was sadly damaged through the impact,
but more serious consequences were averted. The
royal sleigh was slightly involved, and Princess
Elizabeth sustained a bruised ankle.

WTien the news of the accident arrived in Bucarest,
King Carol was, I understand, very angry. Living
the secluded life he did, he never had any sympathy
with such new-fangled sports. A stern command
came from Bucarest to cease bob-sleighing imme-
diately, and the young people were ordered to return
forthwith to the capital. This decree admitted of
no appeal, so very ruefully the sleighs were stored
away and the party returned to town.

Most probably Prince Carol received a good
lecture from the King on the dangers of such sport.
At any rate, there was no more bob-sleighing that
winter.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 195

Ordinary sleighing is always practised when the
snow is deep enough. All the wheeled carriages
disappear at once from the streets, and sleighs are
the only vehicles to be seen. They are very neat
little vehicles, quite low, and drawn by two horses.
There is room for two occupants, with the driver
in front seated on a narrow wooden ledge. At the
back of the sleigh there is another wooden ledge
which provides standing-room for one or two
gentlemen.

Private sleighs are handsomely, some even splen-
didly, equipped. The rich furs of the sleigh robes
and the silver-plated harness with its innumer-
able tinkling silver bells, the beautiful horses
gaily caparisoned with bright blue and crimson
woven nets which cover their quarters and spread
back into the sleigh, thus protecting the occupants
from the kicked-up snow, combine in adding
wonderful life and colour to the picture of the Galea
Victorie on a sunny winter day. When the snow is
deep enough, the smooth, rapid motion is very
exhilarating ; but if one passes through a street
which has been partly swept either by broom or by
the wind, the bump, bump over the paved street is
anything but pleasant. To rush swiftly along the
Galea Victorie, then right on to the end of the
Ghaussee with the keen wind just nipping the face
whilst the rest of the body is cosily enveloped in
furs, is one of the most delightful experiences of the
winter in Roumania.

During this season you must protect yourself
from the severe cold. Sometimes it is so severe
that men are to be seen with their moustaches
frozen quite stiff. I think, however, that as a rule

196 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

Roumanians wear clothing in the winter which is
quite too heavy, as it renders them much more
sensitive to the cold. For instance, a man will wear
over his extra warm winter clothes an enormous
overcoat lined throughout with fur, and so heavy
that it is a task to lift it. A fur cap on his head
and fur-edged snow-boots complete the out-of-doors
costume.

Ladies and children also wear very heavy fur-
lined coats, and over the hat the inevitable " glouga,"
a pointed cap something in the style of a witch's
cap, made of stout cloth and with long ends that
one can wind round the neck and tie in a knot. The
" glouga " is to protect the head and ears, and is
sometimes even worn by gentlemen.

Christmas is a very pleasant time, and I always
enjoyed it, even though it be the chronological
misfortune of the country that Santa Claus arrives a
fortnight after the date upon which we used to
expect him at home. Some time before Christmas
the boys belonging to the different church choirs
parade the streets singing at every door much after
the fashion of our own waits, and carrying a large
banner in the shape of a star. As there is a small
light placed behind this, it shows up well and is
very effective in the dark streets. Naturally the
musicians expect to receive largesse, and it is not
often that they are disappointed, as Roumanians
are very charitable and give readily. Christmas
is observed chiefly as a religious holiday, the real
fete being New Year's Eve. Then it is that the
families who have children light up their Christmas
tree and distribute the presents. Every visitor
must have a little remembrance from the tree, no

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 107

matter how small. Punctually at midnight cham-
pagne is brought in and drunk to the accompaniment
of much clinking of glasses and cries of " La mul^i
an!" (A Happy New Year!), which resound on every
side.

The houses are not decorated with holly as they
are in England ; indeed, holly is never seen there.
The present Queen of Roumania tried to cultivate
it in the park at Cotroceni, but without success.
Mistletoe, however, is very abundant, the best kind
growing on the fir-tree.

My delight was great one Christmas Eve (the
English colony always kept their own Christmas)
on arriving home to find a huge bunch of mistletoe,
with its waxlike berries, placed in my room. It

had been sent by Princess G . It was a little

attention prompted by a kind thought, and I
appreciated it. The innate politeness of the
Roumanians is constantly evidenced by similar
acts of courtesy.

Roumanians as a rule are very kind and thought-
ful for others, and their hospitality knows no
bounds. As a Latin race their sympathies and
affection naturally go out to the French, but my
own observations convince me that their respect
and esteem are given to the English more than to
any other nation.

CHAPTER XXVI

SiNAIA

Sinaia and its summer Court — Gay life in the Carpathians — Court
ladies in national costume — Sinaia at various seasons — The
monastery and the Queen's room there : she decorates it with
caricatures of society ladies — A fete at the monastery — King
Edward at Sinaia^Lord Roberts a guest there — The Crown
Prince's residence — Princess Marie's " cuib " or " Crusoe "
amongst the trees — Her sister, the Grand Duchess of Hesse —
Little Princess Ella — A merry party in the woods — A tragedy
recalled.

THIS lovely and fashionable resort is situated in
the valley of the Prahova, and is surrounded
by mountains, which present no very great diffi-
culties of ascent to the ordinary mountaineer. Sinaia
itself consists, apart from its villa residences, of a
casino, a small concert-room, and a really fine
bathing establishment. In the hotel gardens a
military band plays three times a week ; on the
alternate days it is stationed in the forest, in the
vicinity of a pretty little restaurant on the road
leading up to the palace. On this spot the visitors
delight to congregate and listen to the strains of the
band. There is no lack of seats, as wooden benches
and even tables are generously provided. To sit
there inhaling the delicious perfume of the pines,
brought out by the warm rays of the sun, sipping at
the same time a glass of tucia or other beverage, and
lazily criticising the passers-by on the road below, is
an important part of the daily life at Sinaia.

198

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 199

Sinaia is reached in about four hours by rail from
Buearest, and in one hour from the Hungarian
frontier, and is of eourse a most fashionable resort.
The Court goes there in summer to avoid the great
heat in Buearest. Peleseh, the royal palace, is a
fine residence, built by the late King Carol. It is
beautifully situated on an eminence backed by the
pine-clad heights of the Carpathians, whilst at the
foot flows the merry little river Peleseh, from which
the palace derives its name.

The monastery at Sinaia is situated upon a high
hill which is reached from the valley below by
sloping walks. It is a very fine building, having
been restored of late years, and is really worth
seeing. At one side of the building is a courtyard,
around which are the apartments allotted to the
priests, as well as a few guest-chambers. Behind
the courtyard there is a stretch of green, from which
one has a beautiful view of the surrounding country.
The road behind the monastery leads past Castle
Peleseh and on up into the mountains. As one
gradually ascends the incline, one admires the
magnificent forest trees as well as the profusion of
ferns and wild flowers, which are here seen in
abundance. The river Peleseh rushes along on its
way from the mountains, and as it descends it
forms three lovely waterfalls. The road leads on
up to the Carpathian peaks of Caraiman and Verful
cu Dor, whence one can see the Balkan mountains
on a clear day.

Before Castle Peleseh was built Carmen Sylva
often took up her abode at the monastery. The
room she inhabited is still shown to visitors,
and it is most interesting to anyone who

200 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

has an extensive acquaintance with Roumanian
society, as the walls are covered with pencil draw-
ings done by the Queen, representing, on the whole
very faithfully, the features of one well-known
lady after another. It is really amusing to pick
them out, as some have been caricatured and are
not immediately recognisable.

St Marie is the patron saint of the monastery, so
on that saint's day, the 15th August, the poor of
the surrounding country are regaled by the Archi-
mandrite and the priests. Large tables are placed
in the courtyard, round which are seated the visitors.
They are then served with borsch, a sour soup, in
which float small pieces of meat, with mamaliga
cheese, onions, and large flat loaves, the whole
washed down with a mug of the thin red wine of
the country. Each peasant receives a plate and
mug, which he is at liberty to take with him on
leaving. All the visitors then at Sinaia go up to
watch the proceedings, and very interesting they
seem to find it, as crowds are attracted every year.

Residence in Sinaia is sometimes prolonged till
far into the autumn. Naturally a good deal of
Court etiquette is left behind in Bucarest, with the
result that the royal family as well as the members
of the Court amuse themselves very well indeed.
Tennis (golf has not yet reached Roumania), paper-
hunts, and excursions into the Carpathians are
among the distractions.

The late Queen, Carmen Sylva, and all the ladies
of her Court invariably adopted the Roumanian
costume when the Court was at Sinaia. This
costume is very picturesque. The petticoat, of a
light material, woven by the peasants, is em-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 201

broidered at the bottom. A wide-slcevcd blouse
is also richly embroidered, and with it is worn a
straight piece of embroidery falling from the waist
to the edge of the petticoat. A double skirt,
opening in front, shows this embroidered panel.
The main part of the costume is completed by a
sash wound many times round the waist.

If the wearer be a young girl, she wears a row of
broad Turkish gold coins round her forehead (this
represents her dowry) and a flower behind her
ear. In the case of a married lady a veil is worn
fastened to the head and falling to the waist. After
a woman is married she is not supposed to show her
hair, at any rate among the peasantry.

The custom of wearing Roumanian costume when
in residence at Sinaia has, I regret to say, been
abandoned since Queen Marie came to the throne.

No guest of the royal family can ever leave
Roumania without paying a visit to beautiful
Sinaia. The late King Edward visited it when he
was Prince of Wales, and I was once shown an old
photograph in which he figures standing erect on
a rock with Prince Ferdinand at his side, whilst a
little lower Carmen Sylva is seated, surrounded
by the ladies of the Court. The photograph was
taken during an excursion in the mountains. Lord
Roberts also spent a few days at Sinaia. He came
with his suite to announce to their Majesties the
accession of King George. Before leaving, he most
kindly received the few British residents who were
then in Sinaia, the late Queen being also present and
chatting most affably with everyone, as she could
easily do, being so very proficient in the English
language. Mrs Spender Clay {nee Miss Astor) and

202 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

her brother Waldorf Astor have also been frequent
visitors of Princess Marie.

The family of the Crown Prince and Princess did
not live at Castle Pelesch in the lifetime of the late
King. Their own residence was situated a short
distance away. It was of the shooting-box style,
built entirely of dark wood, surrounded by a nice
roomy verandah. The gardens and terraces in
front and at one side of the house were wonderfully
pretty. At the other side one walked right into the
forest. As their family increased, this house became
too small, so another was built still nearer to Castle
Pelesch. It is a fine house, much more pretentious
than the " shooting-box," but to my mind not half
so pretty. The old house is now reserved for
visitors.

In the neighbouring forest Princess Marie, as
she then was, had a " Crusoe " constructed. I
understand that she adopted the idea from a
celebrated arboreal restaurant in the Forest of
Fontainebleau which is named after the castaway
of Juan Fernandez.

A strong wooden platform was constructed
amongst the trees at a considerable height from
the ground, and upon this was built a house con-
sisting of two rooms, a kitchen, and a salon.

The kitchen is fitted up with everything necessary
for cooking simple dishes or preparing tea. The
salon is very prettily furnished, and books in plenty,
drawing and painting materials, etc., are always to
be found there.

The Queen only takes her special friends to visit
her " Crusoe," and a very charming retreat it is.
The windows and open door command a most

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 203

beautiful view. Access to the " Crusoe " is gained
by means of a ladder with wide steps, which is let
down when required. When the visitors are safely
ensconced in their leafy retreat the ladder is drawn
up, and they remain there shut in on three sides by
foliage and cut off from communication with the
world below save by telegraph, for a wire connects
it with the palace. Nothing disturbs the perfect
calm and quiet at such a height, and many pleasant
hours have been spent by her Royal Highness and
a chosen few in that little nest. Nest is indeed the
word, for that is the meaning of the Roumanian name
" cuib " by which the retreat is generally known.

The Grand Duchess Cyril of Russia, sister to
Princess Marie, was a frequent visitor at Sinaia.
At the time of her last visit she was still Duchess
of Hesse, as she divorced the Duke of Hesse some
time later.

She was accompanied by her little daughter, a
merry little soul, but not by any means to be com-
pared with her cousins so far as looks were con-
cerned. I often met the child playing about in
the forest near the castle, attended by a nursemaid.
Although so young, she was an expert horsewoman,
and well do I remember one day meeting a riding
party of three, the Grand Duchess, her little daughter,
and Princess Elizabeth. The two children were in
a merry mood, and as the way led past a group of
cottages they had evidently made up their minds
to " cut a dash." I heard one of them say, " Now
let us go at full gallop," but the Grand Duchess
nipped their aspirations in the bud, as I heard her
reply, " You will do nothing of the kind, you will
just go past quietly." I remembered that merry

204 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

party and the happy laughter floating back to me
on the breeze when later I heard of the tragic fate
of Princess Ella, and the memory caused the sad
news to strike more sharply home to me. Perhaps
in England the foul deed to which I refer did not
excite so much sorrow, but to us who had known the
child it was a terrible tragedy.

Little Princess Ella was on her way to Russia in
company with her father, to visit the Czar and
Czarina ; they were met at a small frontier town
by their Majesties. Tea was served here, but it
appears that no one happened to partake of it but
Princess Ella. Immediately after swallowing the
tea she complained of feeling ill, and although
medical help was at once available she succumbed
a few hours later. Her mother was telegraphed for,
but the child was already dead when she arrived.
It was understood that the tragedy was the out-
come of an anarchist plot directed against the life
of the Czar. It was by the merest chance (if there
be such a thing as chance) that neither his Majesty
nor the Czarina felt inclined for tea.

One scarcely knows when Sinaia is at its best,
whether in summer when the royal parterres and
the gardens of the different villas are all a mass of
colour, the brilliant sunshine lighting up the scene,
and, beyond, the peaks of the Carpathians stretch-
ing far up into the sky ; or in winter, when the
ground is thickly carpeted with snow, and every
branch and twig stands outlined against the sky.
After a sharp frost, when the sun breaks through the
clouds, lighting up the frozen branches and turn-
ing them into silver, the scene is fairy-like.

Sinaia is also not to be despised in autumn when

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 205

the foliage is beginning to change. It is a real
pleasure to wander through the woods and to feast
one's eyes on the different tints of the changing
leaves. The dark green of the pines, mingling with
the lighter green, yellow, and crimson of the other
trees, makes a blend of colour that delights the eye.

For more than twenty years I spent a few pleasant
weeks of each year at Sinaia, where I have fre-
quently been a guest at the beautiful country home
of the late Madame Take Jonescu, amongst others.
I have visited the lovely place at every season of
the year, and know it in all its varying moods.

CHAPTER XXVII

Franz d'Este and his morganatic wife at Sinaia — My recollection of
him at Vienna — Society girls with cold feet — The German
Crown Prince was popular at Bucarest — But he was only there
a fortnight — The King and his " shade wers " — Predeal — The
leap over the frontier — A little smuggling — A beautiful and
historic road.

THE Archduke Franz d'Este and his morganatic
wife, the Fiirstin Hohenberg, whose murder
at Serajevo by a Servian student was the ostensible
reason for the outbreak of the Great War, visited
Sinaia in the hfetime of the late King Carol and
Queen Elizabeth. They were received there in a
very private circle, no public reception being ac-
corded them, as of course the Fiirstin, not being of
the same exalted rank as her husband, could not
have taken her place at his side. When the Arch-
duke went to the Spanish wedding as representa-
tive of the Emperor of Austria his wife accompanied
him only to San Sebastian, and there awaited his
return.

Franz d'Este was not a pleasant person, and
when I was a girl in Vienna I heard many stories
of his escapades and of those of his equally wild
brother the Archduke Otto. The Emperor was
constantly obliged to call them to account. Many
of the stories were no doubt exaggerated, but I
understand that the often-told tale of how Franz

206

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 207

d'Este stopped a funeral procession and leaped his
horse over the bier was well authenticated.

I remember very well skating one afternoon at
a place by the Stadt Park, near the Ring Strasse.
Franz d'Este was amongst the skaters, and he was
distributing his favours pretty impartially amongst
the crowd of young society girls. They stood
huddled in a crowd, and not one would move till
Franz came to claim her. Poor things ! They
must have had cold feet, but I suppose they thought
it worth while.

The German Crown Prince spent a fortnight in
Bucarest some years ago, and I presume that he
was also taken to Sinaia. Of that, however, I am
not quite sure, as I was away at the time. Anyhow,
I am certain of one thing, and that is, that he made
himself most agreeable to the ladies of Bucarest,
winning golden opinions on every side.

Germans are not liked by the Roumanians, but
the Crown Prince was an exception. He admired the
ladies of society very much, and was greatly taken
by their toilet. I daresay he gave many a hint
to his wife regarding her dress on his return from
Roumania.

At the dances in the palace the Crown Prince
never waited for a formal arrangement by the
Master of Ceremonies. In the case of a young
friend of mine, he simply took her by the hand
when the music started and said, " Let us dance
this together."

On taking leave of the Roumanian officers who
had been attached to his suite, he presented each
of them with a photograph of the German Emperor,
simply saying, " My father wished me to give you

I

208 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

this." All this absence of formality delighted the
Roumanians, who like to dispense with ceremony
themselves. But of course we must remember that
the German Crown Prince only stayed in Roumania
for a fortnight, and since then his character seems
to have developed in an extraordinary way.

The late King and Queen of Roumania liked to
stay at Sinaia as long as they possibly could. King
Carol's desire was to live as simply as possible and
to stroll about the woods without any guard what-
ever. Of course, a guard could not be entirely
dispensed with, but private detectives were employed
to follow the King in his walks as unobtrusively as
was possible. Poor men ! I think they had a hard
time of it trying to carry out their instructions. I
met the King and Prince Ferdinand one day walk-
ing in the woods, and some distance behind followed
two rather shabby-looking men. They behaved in
such a suspicious way, taking cover behind every
tree or bush if they thought the gentlemen were
about to turn, that if I had not been aware of their
identity I should have thought they had designs on
the King. They were detectives who were really
concerned for the King's safety, but they were
obliged to be careful, as his Majesty was always
very angry if one of them crossed his path.

The road from Sinaia to Predeal in the Car-
pathians is beautiful and full of interest. There
is a gentle incline for a considerable part of the way,
till the road finally reaches its culminating point at
Predeal, on the frontier between Roumania and
Transylvania.

Predeal is a pretty little village with a great many
villas scattered about, as it is a favourite summer

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 209

resort for the inhabitants of Bucarest. It is sur-
rounded by pine forests, and these, together with
the health-giving air (Predeal is situated at the
highest point of the Carpathians), attract a great
many sufferers from chest complaints. I spent a
summer once in Predeal, and enjoyed it very much.
The village is of course Roumanian, but our villa
happened to be built just a few yards over the
boundary on Hungarian soil. The Hungarians
were very anxious that people should settle on their
side, therefore they gave special facilities for
building purposes. To mark the boundary there
was a deep ditch running from the forest high up
behind our house right down to the road. This
ditch was constantly patrolled by a Hungarian
soldier, who sternly prohibited any crossing into
Roumanian territory except by the legitimate
means at the barrier on the road further down.

Now, as most of our friends lived on the Rou-
manian side, the fancy often seized us to pay them
an evening visit. But to travel all the way down to
the road was not to be thought of when the crossing
of the ditch was so easy. Therefore we used to
watch for the favourable moment when the soldier
was up near the forest, take a flying leap across the
ditch, and land safely on Roumanian territory before
the sentinel could return. When he did arrive he
could do no more than hurl threats after us, as he
could not leave his post.

Crossing the boundary with forbidden com-
modities was always attended with a certain amount
of risk. What an anxious moment when one was
requested to come into the office, and how great

was the pleasure afterwards when one was successful

14

210 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

in smuggling through certain articles ! Lengths of
muslin pinned in front under one's skirt, cakes of
soap hidden in the hat, chocolate in the bag or
under the saddle of one's bicycle, what a pleasure
it was to get them through ! The Customs officials
may strongly suspect that something is hidden,
but they must not touch or search the person
unless they are certain. Should they do so and
find nothing, it is then a punishable offence. We
had a number of fowls which we had brought with
us from Bucarest, but the grain to feed them had
to be kept on the Roumanian side, as the duty on it
was very high. Every time that the supply ran
short we had to cross the boundary wearing cloaks
or loose jackets. On returning, each person had a
small parcel concealed under these garments, so
the fowls had what they required and the Hun-
garians were none the wiser.

The road from Predeal down into the Hungarian
plain is one of the most lovely I have ever seen. It
begins at the summit of the mountain, gradually
descending in lovely curves, with beautiful glimpses
of the valley beneath. When one finally reaches
the plain it is charming to look back at the heights
from which one has come.

How often have I cycled down from Predeal to
Kronstadt, enjoying to the full all the lovely
scenery en route ! I have made many enjoy-
able excursions in the surrounding mountains, and
one of these particularly is in my memory as I
write.

We started from Predeal one fine summer morning
on foot, preceded by two lads carrying our basket
of provisions. As we walked at a brisk pace down

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 211

the road, we had still time to admire the dancing
shadows caused by the sun shining through the
trees that thickly bounded the road on each side.
After a walk of half an hour we struck off to the
right, and, after crossing some upland meadows and
ascending the steep mountain-side for some time,
found ourselves at the opening of a rocky gorge.
The gorge was so narrow that there was just enough
space for one person at a time to pass along the
footpath, made of rough boards. By many turns and
twists and sudden little jumps from one platform to
the next lower down, we managed, with a good deal
of difficulty, to arrive in the valley beneath. The
slight bruises that we had sustained in the descent
were now speedily forgotten, and we greatly enjoyed
our lunch, supplemented as it was by the wild
raspberries and strawberries which were growing
there in abundance. As our party was mostly
composed of Britishers, the inevitable cup of tea
had to be provided. A little spirit-lamp was placed
in the most sheltered corner we could find, and set
alight. Just as we were in hopes that all was going
on well and that the water was near boiling-point, a
sudden puff of wind came along and blew out the
flame. Time after time this tantalising experience
was repeated. At length one of the party, a clergy-
man, undertook the difficult task of getting the
water boiled. To see him on his knees, anxiously
shading the flame with his hat, his hands, his whole
body, and softly ejaculating sundry remarks when
the spiteful little puff of wind succeeded in getting
in between and undoing all his work, offered a
spectacle which helped to solace the others. I am
sure if he had not been a clergyman he would have

212 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

said something wicked. However, in the event, we
had to content ourselves with tea made of lukewarm
water ; and although the Roumanians of the party
did not seem to mind, we Britishers decidedly
disliked it.

When one returns in memory to the scene of so
much pleasure and enjoyment, it becomes impossible
to imagine the bloody struggle that recently was
enacted there. That beautiful road leading up to
Predeal was probably cut up by the German heavy
guns, the splendid forest trees torn to splinters, and
all the merry animal life scared away. It is sad to
think of the beautiful village of Predeal being even
temporarily in the hands of the enemy, and of the
number of valiant Roumanians who there made the
supreme sacrifice.

CHAPTER XXVIII

A delightful equestrian excursion — We leave Sinaia in order to witness
the suni'ise from Omul — Midnight in the forest, and the ghostly-
hours before the dawn — Gathering edelweiss whilst we await
the sunrise — A glorious spectacle — The coveted province spread
out before our eyes — An equestrian quadrille on the summit of
Omul — The guest-house of the monastery — On the homeward
way — We descend the Jeppi on foot and meet with unexpected
difificulties — Danger follows upon danger — A dreadful night on
a mountain peak — Excitement at Sinaia — Triimfiphant return
of the " heroes " and " heroines."

A PARTY of us, twenty in number including
guides, set out on horseback one evening
from Sinaia in order to ascend the Omul and view
the sunrise next morning. The moon was just then
at the full, and, as our way led by a very steep
pathway up the mountain, we could catch glimpses
from time to time of Sinaia with its twinkling lights
far below. About 1.30 a.m. we stopped to rest the
horses, the guides (who were really only horse
keepers) made a roaring fire, and we feasted royally
on tea and cozonak.

It was sheer delight to sit there and drink in the
pure mountain air, and the delight was enhanced by
the eerie feeling induced by the solemnity of the
hour (when it is said we are nearest the unseen), and
by the awe-inspiring influences of the vast silent
forest which surrounded us on every side. After a
time we broke the spell, and songs and jests went

213

214 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

merrily round. We were loth to resume our
journey, but we knew that the sun would not wait
for us, so the order to march was at last reluctantly
given. The guides started to gather in our horses,
which had been hobbled near at hand, but mine
could not be found. Search was made in every
direction, but all in vain — the horse was not to be
found. At length one of the gentlemen of the
party kindly offered to lend me his mount with the
proviso that it should be returned to him when
mine was recovered, as his was such a fast trotter.
To this I willingly agreed, so off we started again,
leaving a guide to recover the lost horse, which I
may at once say he did later on. Just at 3 a.m. we
arrived at the summit of the Omul, the highest peak
in the Carpathians. I felt cold at such a height,
although I was well wrapped up in a fur coat.
Until his majesty the sun deigned to make his
appearance we occupied ourselves in gathering
edelweiss, which grew there profusely. It is very
highly prized, chiefly I think because of its inaccessi-
bility, growing as it does only at such altitudes ; but
to my mind it is by no means a pretty flower.
Indeed, edelweiss always suggests to me flowers cut
out of a piece of grey flannel.

As the supreme moment drew near for the rising
of the sun, we were enjoined to fix our eyes on a
certain bank of grey cloud, and not to lose sight of
it for a single instant. We obeyed, and in a few
seconds a tiny crimson line appeared above the bank
of cloud. This line gradually grew broader and
broader as the sun rose higher, giving one the
impression that some great being was behind it
pushing it further and further up. Finally, the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 215

glorious sun in all his beauty shook himself free from
the cloud trammels and flooded the surrounding
peaks with radiant light.

The view from the Omul is altogether glorious.
iThe whole province of Transylvania with its lovely
valleys, lakes, and winding streams is spread out
before one's eyes — that province so long coveted
by the Roumanians, which they have now justly
secured for their own.

After a slight refreshment, for which the keen
mountain air had given us an appetite, we again
mounted our horses in order to proceed to the
monastery at which we were to dine. Again one of
the horses was missing (this very often happens on
these excursions), so, whilst waiting till the guide
found it, the rest of us formed up on horseback to
go through a quadrille. These country horses are
very wiry and are splendid for travelling in the
mountains, but graceful they are not. Their awk-
ward movements, as we tried to induce them to
go forward, then to retire, were so comical that
we could scarcely retain our seats, we laughed so
much.

When the missing pony was at last found, and we
had calmed down a little, we resumed our journey.
Some stiff climbing, a good gallop over undulating
country, the fording of a few shallow rivers (nearly
all the rivers in Roumania are shallow), and we
arrived at our destination. How glad we were to
bathe hands and faces in the little brook that
babbled along through the fields, then to rest our-
selves luxuriously on the wide verandah of the
guest-house, knowing that pretty soon our appetites
would be satisfied with the simple fare of the monks !

216 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

As visitors are only expected during the summer
months, the accommodation is of the most primitive
kind. A tolerably large room is given up to the
guests, well furnished with plenty of hay, in which
to pass the night. Ladies sleep at one end, gentle-
men at the other ; and really, after a day's hard
riding one sleeps very well amongst the hay, and
is even thankful to have it. On this particular
occasion, however, we only remained for dinner,
which was served on rough wooden tables (minus
tablecloths), whilst we sat round on equally rough
wooden benches. The fare was simple, but we
enjoyed it thoroughly. The inevitable mamaliga,
sour cabbage, eggs and yaort, a kind of thick
preserved milk, formed the principal dishes of the
repast. After many expressions of our grateful
thanks to the monks who had so kindly entertained
us, and after offering a trifling gift to the church, we
started on the return journey, hoping to arrive in
Sinaia about 7 o'clock p.m.

But man proposes, God disposes. The old lesson
was taught us again. It had been decided by the
gentleman in charge of the expedition (who claimed
to have an intimate acquaintance with the moun-
tains) that we should descend the Jeppi on foot, and
so, after two or three hours' ride from the monas-
tery, we dismounted, and the horses were led back
by another route. Two of our so-called guides came
with us to help us in the descent, but what a descent !
We had first to cross a grassy slope in order to reach
a spur of the mountain from which the real descent
began. The short grass had been made so slippery
by the heat of the sun that it was with great difficulty
we could keep our feet ; indeed, at one time some of

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 217

us were reduced to crawling upon our hands and
knees. From the edge of this grassy slope there was
a sheer descent of very many feet. A false step
would have meant, if not actual death, certainly a
broken limb.

Our relief w^as great when the dangerous stage of
our journey was passed (as we thought) and we
arrived on the peak of the mountain for which we
had been aiming. But what was our horror to
find that our situation was as bad as before, if not
worse ! Imagine tw^enty people crowded together
on an outstanding spur of the mountain, that
terrible grassy slope behind us, and before us even
worse conditions. At the first glance I thought it
would be a sheer impossibility to descend on foot,
and that nothing but a balloon could rescue us from
the situation if we refused to return as we had come.
From where we stood the mountain seemed to fall
away directly beneath us, nothing intervening
between us and the beginning of the wooded slopes
far below but huge boulders that it seemed utterly
impossible to get over or get around. What were
we to do ? After much discussion, it was decided
that one of the gentlemen should act as pioneer and
discover if the descent was practicable. He was
to hail us if he reached the forest in safety. Mr

B , who had a reputation for athletics to sustain,

was obviously the man for the task, and he set off
willingly, our fears for his safety being perhaps
intensified by our anxiety for our own.

After what seemed an interminable time, a cheery
cry reached us from amongst the distant trees, and no
further time was lost in arranging our own departure.
We went — as the animals are said to have entered

218 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the Ark — two by two, in this case a lady and a
gentleman together. A considerable distance was
maintained between each couple, as the danger from
displaced boulders was great. It was a horribly
difficult and a really dangerous descent, and it took
a long time for us all to reach the head of the Jeppi
in safety. But so far from our troubles being over,
it seemed as though they had only just begun. The
darkness was so great on the wooded mountain that
it would have been highly dangerous to even attempt
to continue our way without more guides. The
moon was just at the full, but no ray of light pene-
trated the thick foliage by which we were surrounded.
To add to our troubles, one of the ladies of the party
lost the use of her limbs through sheer fright ; she
could literally not stand on her feet. In this
dilemma it was decided that one of our guides
should descend to Poiana Tapuliu, the nearest
village, and send up more guides and a horse. Our
situation was far from enviable, as we huddled
together against a shelving bank at the foot of
which ran the narrow pathway leading to the valley
below. We were afraid to move, enveloped as we
were in thick darkness, and having been warned
that a sheer descent of unknown depth lay at the
other side of the path. As the time dragged slowly
on, we wondered what the people in Sinaia were
thinking about us. Some of the livelier spirits tried
to cheer up the party with song, but without much
success. One restless young fellow would insist on
moving about on the narrow pathway, to the terror
of his sister, and indeed of us all, as we feared he
would stumble in the darkness and fall over the
precipice. Finally, to our great delight, voices were

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 219

heard in the distance and Hghts began to twinkle.
It was the guides who had come to rescue us, each
one with a blazing torch.

It was with great difficulty that the order of
descent could be arranged, as so little space was
available. However, at length the lady who was
incapacitated was safely seated in the saddle, with a
guide to lead the horse ; the other members of the
party, each one with a guide to lean on, fell in
behind, and we slowly began the descent. What a
journey that was ! Shall I ever forget it ? Stumbling
over the thick undergrowth, slipping on patches of
frozen snow, only kept from falling and rolling down
the mountain by a frenzied grip on the guide's
arm : it was a wonder that no further accident
happened. But none did, and eventually we all
arrived safe and sound at the base of the mountain,
there to be received like so many heroes and heroines.
The whole population of Poiana Tapuliu was astir,
bonfires had been lighted, and carriages were in
w^aiting to drive us back to Sinaia.

Instead of reaching there at 7 p.m. as had been
intended, we arrived between 1 and 2 a.m. The
excitement was great ; all sorts of rumours had been
afloat as to what had happened to us when we did not
appear at the hour appointed. As a friend told me
afterwards, the road between Sinaia and Poiana
Tapuliu had never been so animated — carriages
passing to and fro, cyclists and foot-passengers, all
anxious for news of the missing party. Sinaia is a
small place, and such long excursions in the mountain
arc of rare occurrence ; and besides, the members of
the party belonged to the best-known families in
Roumania. Fortunately, there were no bad results

220 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

from our expedition. Even the lady who suffered
from temporary disablement was quite restored to
health after a few days' rest. It was the principal
guide who came in for the greatest amount of blame,
as it was considered by expert mountaineers a very
risky proceeding indeed to bring ladies down by the
Jeppi.

None of us were likely to forget our experience that
night ; but as nothing very untoward happened, we
were able to laugh about it all later on.

Since then I have made many excursions in the
Carpathians : twice have I been on the Omul, several
times on the Caraiman (where we were overtaken
once on the summit by a snowstorm and were able
to pelt each other with snowballs), but never have
I had such an adventure as that of the Jeppi.

Before leaving the subject of the Omul, which, by
the way, means " The Man," I shall briefly relate the
legend connected with it. It appears that a shep-
herd called Marco had the temerity to aspire to the
hand of his master's daughter. As he was a good,
faithful fellow, and the daughter herself favoured
his suit, the master agreed to give his consent to
the marriage on condition that the shepherd would
ascend the Omul and there spend the winter. The
shepherd at once consented, and at the beginning
of winter he made all his preparations for a long
absence. He left his flocks in the care of his friends
in Sinaia, then put into his knapsack some maize,
cheese, and a few bottles of tuica. When all his
arrangements were made, he went to the monastery
to burn a candle to St Dimitri and to kiss the holy
ikons, after which he set out to make the ascent of
the Omul, accompanied only by his dog. As he

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 221

neared the summit snow began to fall heavily, but
still he hurried on. At last the goal was reached and
he found himself on the lofty summit. There was
no sign of animal life — the bears and other animals
had all sought the warmer air of the regions below.

Although no shelter was to be had on the summit
of the rock, still, as the legend runs, the man and
doff survived throughout the bitter winter.

With the coming of spring, the young shepherds,
Marco's companions, decided to climb to the summit
of the mountain and discover how he had fared.
Very joyously they set out, each one with his primi-
tive instrument of music. As they approached the
summit their delight was great on seeing the dog
run to meet them, but alas ! there was no sign of the
dog's master.

When the summit was gained, however, they
caught sight of Marco standing on a rock, living,
breathing, but incapable of movement. His com-
panions called him by name. He recognised them
and strove to approach them, but his limbs failed
him and he fell to the base of the rock on which he
had been standing. When his friends reached the
spot they stood sorrowfully around him. He spoke
but a word to them, and then died.

On the very spot on which he died his friends
made his grave. A cross was erected to his memory,
and anyone who takes the trouble to ascend the
Omul may still see the remains of it.

CHAPTER XXIX

Cholera in Russia — I hurry back to Roumania — I am put in quaran-
tine on the frontier and Hberally disinfected— The soldier guard
aims his gun at me — My Jewish room-mate and her obtrusive
husband— She plays " Patience " whilst he prays and expec-
torates— I get my release and send a military expedition in

search of a mirror — Miss R tries to escape from Russia — Her

companion, a German engineer, develops cholera — The terrified
peasants place them together in an empty cottage — The German
dies — She finds, when after a terrifying experience she reaches
Bucarest, her hair is snow-white.

AS is pretty well known, cholera has never yet
been entirely stamped out of Russia. Rou-
manians are naturally on the alert lest the dread
disease should be introduced into their country, and,
thanks to the excellent arrangements made by them
on the different frontiers, cholera has never yet
succeeded in establishing itself on their side. I
happened to be in Russia one autumn when the
cholera was pretty bad. Frightful tales were brought
in as to what was taking place in the next village —
" people dying by the score, numbers being buried
in one common grave," and so forth. Whether
they were true or not, these stories frightened me
so that I determined to leave at once and try to
re-enter Roumania. The journey through Russia
was anything but pleasant, all the railway carriages
reeking of disinfectants. On arriving at the Rou-
manian frontier, the train was stopped on the bridge
over the Pruth close to the little village of Ungheni.

222

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 223

We were received by the doctor and a number of
officials, one of whom at once demanded the keys of
our trunks. Everything was pushed into an enor-
mous stove, and steamed there for fully twenty
minutes. We were then conducted to our apart-
ments. Four or five peasant cottages had been
cleared of their inhabitants, and were placed at the
disposal of the travellers. I shared one of the rooms
with a lady and her children. Every morning a
soldier entered with a bottle (vaporisateur) of dis-
infectant and liberally besprinkled us and our clothes
with it ; so thoroughly was it done that my clothes
reeked of the stuff for months afterwards. Towards
mid-day another soldier presented himself with the
menu from the station restaurant. Not knowing
Roumanian very well then, I had no choice but
to point to some dish on the menu ; and whether it
were fish, flesh, or fowl, it had to be eaten. If I had
refused it and chosen another dish, I might have
fared still worse.

We were guarded by soldiers and attended by
soldiers. Indeed, so very strictly were we guarded
that, one day going a few paces beyond the range
marked out for us, a sentinel actually aimed his gun
at me. After that, thinking discretion the better
part of valour, I overstepped the limit no more.
I was obliged to stay in quarantine for five days,
paying two francs a night for my bed, and providing
myself with food also. The lady who shared my
room at the beginning left after two days, and her
place was taken by a Jewess who arrived from Russia
with her husband. They were a most amusing
couple. She sat on her bed all day playing at
" Patience." He in the corner of the room, with a

224 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

hand-towel over his shoulders in lieu of a praying
shawl, recited the prayers for the day, every now
and then turning to expectorate, and most probably
calling down blessings on the Christians. The
husband was lodged in an adjacent room with another
traveller, but was constantly coming in to ours to
visit his wife. One morning he came at such an
early hour that I had not finished dressing. I was
very angry, but controlled myself as well as I could.
After a few minutes he went back to his own apart-
ment to fetch something, only to return almost
directly. But I had been quicker than he. In
those few moments I had barricaded the door.
His disgust was great when he found he could not
get in, and quite plainly I could see his form sil-
houetted on the white window-blind as he took
his revenge by putting his fingers to his nose.
His wife looked stolidly on at all this byplay, but
made no remark. She made no attempt whatever
to interfere with me ; so I was free to dress at my
leisure, and then, and not till then, did I open the
door. At the next visit of the doctor I complained
to him about the too frequent visits of the Jew, so
he promised that I should not be annoyed again.

When finally the day arrived that I was free to
continue my journey, I felt that I should like to look
into a mirror before setting off. But no such thing
was to be had in any of the houses. Finally, after
diligent inquiries prosecuted through the soldiers,
I learned that two gentlemen who occupied a little
cottage not far off were the lucky possessors of such
an article. The soldier was at once despatched with
a polite request for the loan of the mirror. It was
at once granted, so I was able to see how I looked

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 225

after five days' quarantine. Soldiers accompanied us
to the station, and saw us safely into the train ; but
our passports were not restored to us till we had
arrived at the town of Jassy en route for Bucarest.

On one of the frequent occasions when cholera
became epidemic in Russia, a young English
governess with whom I had some acquaintance met
with one of the most tragical experiences I have
ever heard of.

Miss R accepted a holiday engagement with a

family in Russia at some distance from the border,
and as it was her first visit to that country she
looked forward to it with the greatest interest and
pleasure. For a time all went well, but at length
cholera broke out in the neighbourhood and spread
alarmingly. Poor Miss R was terribly fright-
ened. She was the only foreigner in the place with
the exception of a German engineer who was en-
gaged on some important work in the district,
and who, she soon found, shared her nervousness.
The two decided to leave, but the family with whom
she was living thought that such a course would
be a very foolish one, and sought to dissuade her
from it.

Finding her still determined, her employers

placed practical obstacles in the way. The place

was situated very many miles from the nearest

railway station, and they refused to supply her with

a carriage or a vehicle of any sort. The German

was for a time no more successful, but at length he

did obtain a karutza, and the two set out upon

a journey that was destined to have a ghastly

termination.

They had scarcely reached the first village when

15

226 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the German fell ill, his symptoms clearly indicating
cholera. Overcome with horror, Miss R aban-
doned any attempt to proceed to the station, still
many miles away, and sought help in the village.
It was a practically hopeless quest. She knew no
word of the language, and the villagers, terrified of
the cholera, would have nothing to do with her or
her sick companion. The latter knew a little
Russian, and at length in response to his solicitations
the two were shown to an empty cottage on the
outskirts of the village, and here they took up their
quarters. What a situation for a young English
girl ! Left in a remote Russian village, alone, save
for the companionship of a sick stranger of another
race, and without the means of making known her
wants even if the villagers had been able or willing
to assist her !

Food and water were thrust through the window,
but no other help whatever could be obtained.
There was no doctor in the place, and she had no
means of even appealing to her late employers.

Faced by this terrible situation. Miss R braced

herself to meet it and acted as an Englishwoman
might be expected to act. She did her best for the
German engineer, but the poor man, lacking medical
attention or even drugs or restoratives of the
simplest kind, was doomed from the first. He
rapidly grew worse, and after a day and a night of
terrible suffering, which his unhappy attendant
could do little to mitigate, he died.

Miss R 's situation, alone with the dead body,

was scarcely better than it had been before, and she
became resigned to the worst that could befall,
feeling assured that the villagers would not help.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 227

What was her surprise, however, when, upon finding
out that her companion was dead, they so overcame
their fears as to take the body away and bury it !

Two days later — having apparently conferred
amongst themselves in the meantime — they brought
a karutza to the door and invited her by signs to
enter it. She was then driven to the railway
station, and eventually reached Bucarest in safety.
When she encountered her friends there they
uttered exclamations of surprise and even of horror,
for the hair of the young girl had turned completely
white.

It was the greatest mercy that Miss R

succeeded in getting through to Roumania in
safety, as the Russian peasants often become quite
crazy when cholera is about. They accuse the
doctors of fostering the disease for their own ends,
and often refuse to have their sick attended to. In
one district they worked themselves up to such a
pitch of madness that they attacked a hospital,
dragged the patients out of bed, forced them to
return to their own homes, and completely put to
rout both doctors and nurses. Needless to say,
numbers of deaths occurred in consequence of these
terrible acts. Cholera is never really stamped out
in Russia ; it is usually hanging about the remote
villages, and it takes toll of a certain number of lives
every year.

CHAPTER XXX

The beggars of Buearest — A plan that failed — Was it inspired by
Count Rumford's Munich scheme ? — Where the beggars sjDend
their hoHdays — No lack of charity — Footless, and yet wanted
boots— Influence of priests and beggars on the currency — A
stroll through the market — Servians as market gardeners — An
exhibition in Buearest — Princess Marie and the water-chute —
Excessive gambling — TheMosi — English " stupidity " — Nothing
to buy in London — Buearest to London via the North Sea and
Edinburgh — Jefferson Bricks in Buearest.

BEGGARS form a prominent feature of life in the
East ; and Roumania being considered the end
of Europe and the beginning of Asia, the country-
is not lacking in this characteristic. Beggars swarm
in the streets, and are of all kinds. There is the
familiar beggar who has his accustomed pitch ; the
beggar who has a wound to exhibit ; the beggar
who is, or feigns to be, a bit crazy, and twirls
himself singing all down the street. He is, however,
always sensible enough to clutch the coin one offers
him.

The practice of begging is winked at by the
authorities, as otherwise they would not know what
to do with the beggars. I remember once there was
a change of Government, and sweeping reforms were
going to be made by the incoming party. The first
reform was to be the clearance of beggars from the
streets. A notice was issued that all beggars were
to assemble at the police stations in their respective

228

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 229

districts on a certain day. This was done, and great
hopes were entertained that at last we should be
rid of this nuisance. Next day we eagerly searched
the newspapers for an account of the proceedings,
and how disappointed we felt, and how futile it all
seemed, when we found that it closed with the
words, " The beggars were then dismissed, as no one
knew what to do with them " !

I have a strong impression that the plan was
inspired by some recollection of the work done so
successfully in Munich by that most remarkable of
men, Benjamin Thompson, Count Rumford, the
English-American soldier, statesman, and scholar,
from whom the famous englischen Garten derived
its name (one wonders if it bears it still).

The " rounding-up " idea, although it was not
planned with the genius of a Rumford, nor carried
out with the success which rewarded that great man's
efforts, was recognised as having something practical
about it, and it remains a cherished practice of
the Bucarest police. Before a fete-day, such as the
anniversary of the coronation, the police round up
every suspected person, pickpockets, etc., and put
them safely under lock and key till the festivities are
over ; and then they are set at liberty again.

Although the authorities accept no responsibility
in regard to beggars, still there are many private
societies formed to help them. One such society
issues little books consisting of ten pages. Any
charitably disposed person can buy a book for a
franc and then distribute the leaves as he wishes.
One page entitles the beggar to a basin of soup and
a piece of bread. On presenting two pages he is
entitled to a piece of meat. It is a capital plan, as

230 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

one feels that one is really feeding the hungry (if
hungry they be) and yet not giving them money to
waste on other things.

Roumanians are very charitable, and will seldom
refuse a beggar. That is probably why there are
so many. As they are not used to refusals, they are
very insistent, and sometimes I have had a beggar
follow me for quite a long distance, droning out his
customary formula, till losing patience I have
threatened him with the police. One poor little
girl always excited my pity — a child of about eleven
or twelve. She had lost both feet in an accident,
but she was such a bright, cheery little soul that it
was a pleasure to see her. She was always carried
to a certain corner by a big boy, who then retired and
watched over her from a distance. I always gave
her a small coin, for which she was most grateful ;
but one day she highly amused me with the request,
" Do please give me a pair of boots." Seeing that
she had no feet, I was at a loss to understand what
use the boots would be to her, but I could get no
enlightenment from her, only a smile and a re-
petition of the request, " Please, a pair of boots."

The coins used in Roumania are lei and bani, the
equivalents of francs and centimes. The smallest
nickel coin is five centimes. Several attempts have
been made to introduce one- and two-centime coins,
but after a time they have invariably disappeared
from the currency — withdrawn, as I have been told,
for very obvious reasons by the priests and the
beggars.

It is very pleasant to stroll through the market on
a fine summer morning. On all sides there is a wild
riot of colour which delights the eye. There are the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 231

fruit stalls piled with oranges, pomegranates, dates,
green grapes of the native variety, and grapes of
light amber hue from Constantinople. Scarcely less
effective are the vegetable stalls with their bright-red
tomatoes affording a brilliant contrast to the fresh
greens of cauliflower and cabbage. Here, too, are
radishes and pimonts. Then there are stalls with
mushrooms of all varieties, stalls with cheeses,
stalls with golden butter and white and brown eggs,
and every here and there are mounds of melons.
Some of the melons are of the yellow variety, but
there are also plenty of water melons, with one here
and there cut open to display the luscious pink
interior.

Roumanians do not grow all the vegetables that
fill the market — often they are largely due to the
labour and care of foreigners. I stayed for some
weeks near Pitesti, a small country town, in the
neighbourhood of which a number of Servians came
to settle for the summer months. They rented a
large plot of ground and grew vegetables of all kinds.
They were most industrious and looked well after
their produce. When the melons were ripening
they even took it in turns to sit up and watch all
night, so that would-be thieves might have no
opportunity of helping themselves. Very often
through the night we were startled by a rifle-shot.
It was only the Servian on guard who fired from
time to time to advertise his wakefulness. Two or
three times a week a big waggon was loaded with
produce and driven for miles round the country,
even to Sinaia and beyond. Their produce was
eagerly bought, as vegetables are not too abundant,
especially in these summer resorts. When the

232 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

market gardeners were quite sold out they retired
to Servia with their profits, where they remained till
next season. It must have been a profitable
enterprise, as fifteen Servians were engaged in it at
the place I speak of.

The exhibition that was held in Bucarest some
years ago was very creditable to the country, seeing
that it was the first that had ever taken place. All
the ordinary produce of the country was exhibited —
cereals, fruit, cheese and butter, huge blocks of
rock-salt, etc. The home industries of the peasantry —
carpets, Roumanian costumes, embroidery, pillow-
lace and fine lace (the making of the latter being
taught in the schools) — formed perhaps the most
interesting feature. A miniature creche was also
shown, fitted with all modern appliances for the
little ones. Although the exhibition was " Inter-
national," the exhibits were mainly Roumanian.
Some neighbouring countries took the opportunity
of showing their wares, and Germany was repre-
sented by a display of automatic pianos.

Servia and Bulgaria sent embroidery, carpets, also
broad leather waist-bands m which folk put their
money. The colours employed in the carpets were
rather crude, but the work was very good.

One of the most effective exhibits, and that which
showed the greatest taste in its arrangement, was
the hall in which the Roumanian industry of cigar
and cigarette making was shown. The entire hall,
a fairly large one, was inlaid with cigars and cigar-
ettes arranged in various fanciful designs. Small
stacks of cigars tied with the Roumanian colours
were placed at intervals down the middle of the hall,
whilst gaily-decorated boxes of cigarettes of all

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 233

sizes formed a sort of dado round the wall. A
number of young girls, dressed in Roumanian
costumes, busily engaged in the making of cigarettes,
packing the boxes, etc., completed a picture that
would strike the eye of an artist.

Elsewhere was an interesting exhibition showing
the improvement in the treatment of prisoners as
contrasted with that of former times. The old cell
was small and badly lighted, with grimy walls and
low ceiling ; the modern cell, though also small,
had a high ceiling, a good-sized window letting in
plenty of light and air, and whitewashed walls,
making altogether a neat, clean appearance. The
clothing of the prisoners had also undergone a
change for the better, as was shown in the figures
in each cell. Close by was the hall in which work
done by prisoners was on view. Well-made carpets,
matting of cocoa-nut fibre, fancy articles carved
out of wood, all testified to the ingenuity of the
prisoners.

The grounds of the exhibition were beautifully laid
out, flowers growing everywhere in profusion ; but
sufficient space was reserved for the various amuse-
ments, the favourite one being the water-chute.
This form of diversion was popular with everyone,
but more especially with the present Queen, wlio
took great delight in it. Several times she made the
trip alone — that is, only with the man in charge —
as the plunge into the water was so much more
exciting when the boat was not heavily laden.
Unfortunately, during the summer a quarrel
arose between the Americans in charge of the water-
chute and the exhibition authorities. Whatever
may have been the cause of the dispute, the result

234 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

was that the Americans were obhged to leave the
exhibition, the management of the " chute " being
given to a Roumanian company.

Rumours were rife that jealousy of the Americans'
" takings " was at the bottom of the trouble.
Whether that was so or not, I cannot say.

Gaming-tables were numerous, at which roulette,
trente-et-un, etc., were played ; but stakes were so
high, and the sums of money that changed hands
so enormous, that the police were obliged to inter-
vene and forbid all gambling in the exhibition.

It was most enjoyable to lounge away an after-
noon in the lovely grounds, listening to the strains
of the string band or the varied music of the lautare ;
and when the exhibition was finally closed it was
greatly missed, as Bucarest is rather wanting in
outdoor amusements in summer.

The Mo^i

The Mo§i, or great annual fair, which is held in
the month of May, probably embraces all the usual
features of fairs the world over. Its special dis-
tinctions are that it assumes the importance of a
national exhibition, and that the fair grounds,
which occupy a vast area on the outskirts of
Bucarest, are always visited by royalty.

The Mo§i generally lasts for ten days, and during
that time the traffic in the Calea Mosilor, which
leads to the grounds, is the scene by day and night
of a practically continuous procession which not only
includes every kind of noise and extravagance
incidental to our Derby Day, but can also boast of
many picturesque features unknown in the pro-
gress to the classic race. The residents in Calea

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 235

Mo^ilor deserve and receive sympathy during this
stirring time.

For tlie peasants the Mo§i is a great national
festival, and, attired in their gay costumes, and
driving in ox-waggons canopied with boughs of green,
they add much to the picturesqueness of these
varied scenes.

The first Thursday of the Mo§i is the great day
when royalty honours the scene with its presence.
Both Carmen Sylva and the present Queen, with
their characteristic kindness of heart, always " did "
the show thoroughly, and by the extent and variety
of their purchases gladdened the hearts of an
incredible number of stall-holders.

Is there a fair anywhere in the world without
gingerbread ? I remember it in this connection in
my native Ireland, and I have met it at fairs in
many parts of Europe since. The Mo§i adheres
to the gingerbread tradition, and displays the
popular delicacy (if it be a delicacy) in every con-
ceivable variety. It is an unwritten law that no
one, high or low, must return from the fair ginger-
breadless.

Of course you may eat what you like at the Mo!^i,
but the local connoisseur knows well that the true
gastronomical feature of the fair is an excellent
small garlic sausage which I know Queen Marie
tried on at least one occasion and commended very
highly.

I feel a slight consciousness of disloyalty now
when I acknowledge that the Turkish stalls par-
ticularly attracted me. TIic beautifully hne em-
broidery, with small squares worked in gold and
silver thread, the gorgeous carpets, the wide-sleeved

236 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

blouses of delicate texture, richly embroidered in
silk, the quaintly decorated pipes with beaded
stems, and many other attractive articles of Otto-
man origin, afforded opportunities for " fairings "
of quite distinctive character.

In various country districts fairs are held at
stated seasons of the year. At Campulung, where
I once spent the month of July, I was delighted to
watch the peasant girls going to the fair dressed in
all the finery of their national costume, many of
them wearing curious billy-cock hats, and all with
neat shoes and stockings.

There was a bench opposite to our house, and
here the girls on returning from the fair always sat
down and divested themselves of their fine shoes
and stockings, which they carefully wrapped up in
paper, proceeding on their way both light of heart
and light of foot.

It is all very well to describe and criticise a
country one visits, but it is also amusing to hear
the criticisms of one's own country and people from
those who have visited it for the first time. I was
gravely informed once by a gentleman who had
been in London for a few weeks, and who spoke no
English, that the English were " very stupid."
Asked to be a little more explicit, he informed me
that when he wished to visit the docks of London
he experienced the greatest difficulty in making any-
one understand where he wanted to go. He stopped
a cab and said to the cabman, " Promenade,
dock," but cabby shook his head and did not under-
stand. He then spoke louder, and a crowd began
to assemble. Again and again he said " Promenade,
dock," but still no one understood. At last a

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 237

policeman put him into the cab and drove with him
to the nearest big hotel, where the mystery was
explained. " But," the gentleman asked me, " why
did they not understand ? Promenade is the same
word in English as in French, and dock is dock."

A lady visited London with her husband for the
first time. They had rooms at the Hotel Cecil, and
were very much interested in seeing the sights, but
the complaint of the lady was, " Oh, the shops are
not up to much ; there was absolutely nothing to
buy." The remark rather staggered me for a
moment ; then I ventured to name some of the big
shops in Oxford Street and Regent Street. It was
all of no use : she still persisted in her assertion.
She had been in Paris shortly before, where she was
tempted to buy at every step ; but in London,
" No, there was nothing to buy ! "

Another lady and gentleman whom I knew started
with their son on a visit to Norway. They had no
idea what a sea voyage was like, and after being
buffeted about in the North Sea for a day and a
night, they much wished to be put on shore again.
Although the full passage-money had been paid, the
captain agreed to land them at Leith and to refund
part of the money (at which they were very much
astonished). For a time they made their head-
quarters at Edinburgh, visiting the Trossachs and
the surrounding country. Their admiration for
Scotland was unbounded, more especially for Edin-
burgh, with which beautiful city they were charmed.
Norway could not be more beautiful, they thought ;
they had lost nothing whatever by their change of
plans. With occasional stoppages, the travellers
made their way to London. The size of the metro-

238 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

polls, the traffic and the order with which it was
controlled, the numerous parks, all excited their
wonder and admiration ; but still London did not
charm them as Edinburgh had done.

I was once at an evening party in Bucarest where
some Roumanian current events were being dis-
cussed. They were by no means matters of impor-
tance. Suddenly a lady turned to me and asked,
" What do the English say about it ? " I was
rather embarrassed for a reply, but at last managed
to suggest that perhaps they knew nothing of the
affair. The lady was highly indignant. " We," said
she, " know all that goes on in England and France,
but the people there never seem to know anything
of us." I pleaded guilty on their behalf, and re-
membered Jefferson Brick and his friends.

CHAPTER XXXI

Roumania's early history- — Michael the Brave — Stephen the Great
— A Spartan mother — Brancovan's noble efforts bring about his
end— Oppression promotes union — Greek extortion — Russia
and Turkey — The \\^esternising of Roumania — The Treaty of
Paris — The European Commission — The new State of Roumania
— Prince Cuza and his fall — The siege of Plevna — Rovmiania's
present aims.

1HAD been some time resident in Roumania
before I made any study of the history of the
country and its people. I found authentic material
very difficult to obtain, and had continually to
reconstruct the information I assimilated.

Roumanian history did not attract me until I
came to know and appreciate the people ; and if I
have (as I sincerely hope is the case) enabled my
readers to share my interest in some degree, I now
owe it to them to give some slight historical account
of our allies and of the land which they inhabit.
Indeed, it is necessary to know something of the
history of the country before we can appreciate
the causes which were the determining factors of
Roumania's participation in the war. It is a
country with a future full of hope and promise, and
it deserves to be better known than it is.

Roumania was, as its name implies, a colony of
ancient Rome. It has been suggested that it was
a penal colony, but of this there is ccrtamly no

239

240 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

authentic proof. Many Roumanians hold the behef
that they are, as a people, descended from the
Roman colonists of the time of Trajan, but those
of them who are versed in history do not by any
means make a definite claim to this effect.

Before the Roman epoch very little indeed is
known of the country, and the scanty historical
accounts concerning it are conflicting. With the
thirteenth century begins the authentic history
of the two principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia,
but it is by no means the history of a united people.
These two principalities developed on distinct lines,
and each had its separate annals.

Later on, as they fell under the dominion of the
Turk, a more uniform system of administration was
adopted, native princes governing in both, but
always subject to and under the control of the
Porte. Of these native princes the most important
were Michael the Brave, Stephen the Great, and
Constantine Brancovan.

On the Boulevard in Bucarest there stands a fine
bronze equestrian statue of Michael the Brave,
Prince of WaUachia. He it was who in concert
with the then Prince of Moldavia partially freed
the country from the Turks. His plans for the
aggrandisement of his country succeeded so well
that he invaded Transylvania, seized the reins of
government, and secured his proclamation as prince
of that province. Transylvania was afterwards
conquered by the Hungarians, and ever since it
has been the ardent wish of every Roumanian to
regain this desirable territory.

After the death of Michael, the Turks gradually
regained their old power over the country, a succes-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 241

sion of princes reigning over it who were still obliged
to buy their appointment at Constantinople.

Stephen the Great, Prince of Moldavia, was also
a man of great courage and resource. In one of
his campaigns against the Turks his army at first
was forced to give way, and he is said to have fled
to his own castle for refuge. Upon his demand for
admission, a lattice opened and his mother appeared.
She, like the Spartan mother of old, refused to
admit him, seeing he came not as conqueror but
conquered.

Her words animated both him and his followers to
such a degree that they resolved to die rather
than yield. They marched once more against the
foe, and defeated them completely, forcing them
to recross the Danube.

Constantine Brancovan, Prince of Wallachia, con-
siderably furthered the internal well-being of the
country, which had never been so prosperous as
during his reign. But this prosperity, becoming
known at Constantinople, only increased the exac-
tions of the Turks. Notwithstanding that all the
demands were punctually met, the Sultan thought
that Brancovan was becoming too powerful, and
therefore an envoy was sent to Bucarest with in-
structions to depose him. The Prince was con-
ducted to Constantinople and quietly beheaded, and
after his execution the Turks introduced a new
system. The line of national princes ceased. Those
who were now appointed were mostly Greeks, the
office being sold to the highest bidder.

Hereupon ensued a period of grinding oppression,

the Greeks squeezing as much as they could out of

the peasantry, the consequence being that numbers

16

242 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

of them emigrated. By degrees the two principah-
ties of Wallachia and Moldavia came to recognise the
need for a closer union in face of the common foe.

Towards the close of the eighteenth century the
Russo-Turkish war took place, at which time Austria
profited by the situation to arrange with both
parties for the cession of Bukovina, a richly wooded
province of Moldavia. At the conclusion of peace
Russia restored all the Danubian principalities to
the Sultan, but with certain stipulations in favour
of Wallachia and Moldavia. The treaty, however,
was shortly afterwards violated by the Turks, who
recommenced their old system of extortion, till, in
1802, Russia once more asserted her treaty rights
in favour of the oppressed inhabitants. It was at
this time that the Turks ceded Bessarabia, a fertile
province of Moldavia, to the Czar.

Although these arrangements were made with the
Turks, the ostensible rulers of the two principalities,
Russian influence still seems to have been predomi-
nant. Indeed, until the beginning of last century
the Russian consul at Bucarest was all-powerful.
The revolutionary movement of '48 extended even
to the two principalities — their real object being the
overthrow of Russian influence. In order to quell
the disturbance Russian troops entered the country,
whereupon the reigning princes fled to Vienna,
leaving the government to their ministers. Great
suffering was at this time inflicted on the inhabi-
tants, but finally the Austrians induced the Russians
to withdraw.

One important consequence of the rebellion was
the banishment of many rising politicians to Western
Europe, where they were brought into contact with

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 243

a higher type of civihsation. Statesmen received
their pohtical training abroad, and returned to edu-
cate their countrymen.

The practice then began of sending Roumanian
students to French, German, and Itahan univer-
sities. To this fact we may attribute the rapid
progress of Roumania as compared with the other
Balkan States.

I may here incidentally remark that D. Stourdza
in one of his articles strongly repudiates the
assumption that Roumania is one of the Balkan
States.^

The Treaty of Paris guaranteed the privileges of
the two principalities, whilst still recognising the
suzerainty of the Porte. As a little sop to their
pride, part of Bessarabia, which had been taken by
the Russians, was now restored to Moldavia.

The Great Powers at this stage decided to keep a
protecting eye upon the two principalities, and there-
fore a European Commission was formed to revise
the existing laws and statutes, taking at the same
time into consideration the opinions of the repre-
sentative councils of the country.

At the first sitting the councils voted unani-
mously for the union of the two principalities in a
single state under the name of Roumania, to be
governed by a foreign prince from one of the reign-
ing houses of Europe.

To this the European Commission, recognising

^ This view does not, however, by any means meet with general
acceptance. In conversation recently with a highly-placed Rou-
manian of scholarly attainments, this gentleman argued convincingly
that Roumania is, beyond doubt, one of the Balkan States. Every
great movement in tlio Balkans, he pointed out, has originated in
Roumania, or has at least been participated in by that country.

244 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

that union is strength, dedined to agree, decid-
ing that the principahties should continue to be
governed by their own princes. But the Roumani-
ans were too clever for the Commission, and suc-
ceeded in getting their own way by the simple
device of both principalities electing the same prince,
namely, Prince Cuza. And thus it was that the
union of the two provinces was accomplished.

At the beginning of his reign Cuza reigned very
wisely. Reforms in many departments were due
to him, and he founded the universities of Bucarest
and Jassy.

Later on he tried, unfortunately for himself,
to concentrate all power in his own hands. This
caused great dissatisfaction, and his dissolute con-
duct increased his unpopularity. The leading states-
men thereupon conspired to dethrone him. The
palace was quietly entered one night, the Prince
awakened out of sleep and informed of their de-
cision. There was no use protesting. He allowed
himself to be escorted to the frontier, then proceeded
to Italy, where he died some years later. His
widow returned to Roumania, and died there only
a few years ago.

So secretly had the plans of Prince Cuza's de-
posal been carried out that very few people were
aware of what had happened till next morning,
when the news ran like wildfire through the capital.
How his successor was appointed has been told in
the romantic story of the advent of King Carol.

The siege of Plevna took place during the Russo-
Turkish War of 1877. The Russians sustained
several defeats at the hands of the Turks, and the
outlook for them was decidedly gloomy, when the

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 245

Roumanians under Prince Carol crossed the Danube
and came to their help.

At first the Russians were inclined to treat the
small Roumanian army with scant regard, consider-
ing it " a contemptible little army," but the soldiers
soon showed of what mettle they were made (just
as the men of our own " contemptible little army "
did), and under the efficient leadership of Prince
Carol speedily succeeded in turning the tide of
victory.

One would have thought that the Russians
would show themselves grateful to the friend in
need. Their " gratitude " was shown by the an-
nouncement that they intended to regain possession
of the portion of Bessarabia which had been ceded
to Moldavia after the Crimean War, giving the
Roumanians in exchange the Dobrudja as far as
Constanza. As Bessarabia is a very fertile province,
whilst the Dobrudja is just the contrary, this
proposed exchange aroused great indignation at
Bucarest, but, as is too often the case, might served
instead of right, and the Roumanians were finally
obliged to yield. For a long time after this relations
with Russia were strained, some of the leading
statesmen even trying to promote a better under-
standing with Austro -Hungary. But the strong
anti-German feeling in the country worked against
this, and finally various other causes contributed
to a sort of passive preference for Russia.

CHAPTER XXXII

Turkish influence on Roumanian mind and manners — The origin of
the people — Clearly descended from the Romans of Trajan's
day- — Collateral evidence of Latin origin in the language —
Pride of race — Roimaanian literature.

ALTHOUGH so many years have passed since
the Roumanians shook off the yoke of the
Turk, still many little indications remain to show
that Turkish influence on mind and manners has
not yet totally disappeared. For instance, I was
quite amazed one day to learn that the mother of
a highly placed official could neither read nor write.
Asking for an explanation of this singular state of
affairs, I was informed that the lady in question,
being of the older generation, had been brought up
when the country was still under Turkish influence.
The Turkish women were never allowed to read or
write, so all fear of intrigue outside the harem was
thus avoided. Roumanian women of that time
were brought up in a similar fashion. Of course,
nowadays, even in Turkey, all this is changed :
education has found its way into the harems ;
languages, music, and sciences are studied, with the
result that Turkish women are amongst the most
highly educated of the present time. Those who
have read Pierre Loti's books on present-day life in
Constantinople will understand the change that has
taken place in the harems in regard to education.

246

TWF.NTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 247

Roumanian ladies of the present day are also highly
educated.

It is not considered proper for a young Roumanian
girl, or even a young married woman, to walk alone
through the principal streets in Buearest ; and as to
travelling alone, even a short distance, that is quite
out of the question.

A young girl whom I knew was very stout, and
took so little outdoor exercise that I expostulated
with her mother. The mother then confided to me
that she did not wish her daughter to be seen often
out of doors ; she preferred her to live a rather
secluded life till she should become engaged. There
again was an example of Turkish influence, as we all
know how their women are forced to live a secluded
life, and are never permitted to go on foot on the few
occasions when they may go out of doors.

It is no part of my present purpose to deal at any
length with the vexed question of the origin of the
Roumanian people. I have both read and heard a
great many views expressed on the subject, but as
these have been of the most conflicting character
they have not helped me much. The most stupid
view of all is that persistently expressed by many
ill-informed Germans, who, because they are aware
that there is a certain Sclavonic element in the
country, contend that the whole of the Roumanian
people are Slavs.

The Roumanians are of course a Latin race — that
is as clear as noonday. They are, however, like our-
selves, a very mixed race. That fact is made suffi-
ciently clear in the sketch I have given of the history
of the country. Nations and tribes have overrun
their land times innumerable, as other nations and

248 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

other tribes have overrun our own; but whilst
" Saxon and Norman and Dane are we," with the
characteristics of these races now well blended
(except perhaps in some remote provincial quarters),
the Roumanians have retained, in what must be
considered a remarkable degree, the language
and characteristics of the people from whom
they have clearly sprung, viz. the Romans of
Trajan's day.

It is not only to history that we may look for
proof of this assertion. Were the history of the
country unknown, its language would demonstrate
the Latin origin of the people. It has much in
common even with the Italian spoken in the present
day ; and as I am acquainted with that language,
I would instance a great many words which could be
readily understood by Roumanians, so much do
they resemble their own equivalents. In fact, I had
a friend from Genoa who was able to manage very
well in Roumania, though only able to speak to the
natives in her own language.

There is also something more than history and
language to go upon. It is very easy for a super-
ficial observer to form conclusions with regard to
the Roumanians which are entirely wrong. The
national indolence, the disinclination to engage in
industrial or commercial occupations, so long re-
sponsible for failure to develop the resources of the
country, render it difficult to appreciate the true
character of the people. It is only when one comes
to live constantly with them that one realises the
pride of race which lies behind their careless de-
meanour. It was this pride which rendered the
Germanisation of Roumania an impossible task

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 249

even for King Carol to accomplish, and which the
enemy had to reckon with in the late war.

I have endeavoured in these pages to present as
faithfully as was in my power a picture of the every-
day life of the Roumanian people. If I have failed
to give my readers an impression of a thoroughly
lovable people, the failure is due to my lack of skill,
and not to any lack of appreciation of their many
fine qualities.

There are no warmer-hearted people in the world
than our Roumanian allies. They are hospitable
to an extraordinary extent, many of them keeping
a perpetually open house for their friends. They
are extremely charitable, and are invariably cour-
teous and polite. Indeed, in their consideration for
the feelings of others they evince a delicacy of per-
ception which I have never seen equalled in any
other people.

An Italian diplomat once told me that he did not
wish for any preferment, lest it should necessitate
his leaving Bucarest, and I could well understand
his feelings.

Behind the laissez-aller which hinders endeavour,
the Roumanians have a high order of intelligence.
They have a quick appreciation of what is best in
all that we mean by " progress," and are always
ready to profit by the example of others who may be
more advanced in some directions than themselves.

As I have indicated elsewhere, the Roumanians
do not sufficiently cultivate their native language,
which indeed is to a serious extent abandoned to
the common people. Roumania has not produced
very much literature in the past which might have
served to keep alive an interest in the language, and

250 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

the modern writers who have utilised it in their
works are few. The best known are perhaps the
poets Eminescu, Alexandri, and Bohntineana. The
works of the first-named have been translated into
French and German, and those who are qualified to
judge credit him with possessing the fire of genius.
His work has been compared to that of Keats.
V. Alexandri is par excellence the national poet.
Bolintineana, who has achieved great popularity, is
a writer of ballads.

It may be that Roumanians have now found a
stimulus to higher endeavours, and will cease to be
satisfied with a life of pleasure. But even when
considering the love of gaiety which is so distin-
guishing a characteristic of the people, it is well
to remember that they are never happy unless
they can make all those with whom they come
in contact happy also.

CHAPTER XXXIII

Conclusion

Roumania's object in the war — Hungary's attempt to
Magyarise Transylvania — Sympathy of the Motherland —
" Awake, Roumania ! " — The new boundaries of Roumania —
Room for her people — " Tlie Little Entente " — Safeguarding the
peace of Europe.

EVERYONE, I should think, would be fully aware
by now of the aims which decided Roumania
to intervene in the late war. To regain Tran-
sylvania and see it incorporated in Roumania has
always been the ardent desire of every Roumanian,
young and old. In olden times the province
formed part of the Roman province of Dacia under
the Emperor Trajan. In the eleventh century
the Hungarians made themselves masters of the
land, which was then administered as a Hungarian
province. In still later years Transylvania was
for a time a free country; but in 1868 it was once
more given into the power of Hungary by Franz
Joseph, the late Emperor of Austria. From that
time the Magyarisation of the principality was
steadily carried on, in spite of the bitter discon-
tent of the Roumanian element, which was by far
the most numerous.

The Hungarian Government, it is true, faithfully
promised to respect the language, rehgion, and
nationality of the Roumanians in the country, but

251

252 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

that promise was not kept. Hungarian alone was
recognised as the official language, and laws were
passed within the past few years aiming at the
Magyarisation of Roumanian schools. Efforts were
even made to suborn the Roumanian clergy so that
they might help to this end.

The administration of the province passed alto-
gether into the hands of the Hungarians. The
authorities controlled the elections so effectively
that the Roumanian element had no adequate
representation in the Hungarian Parliament. Con-
sidering that there were between three and four
million Roumanians in the country, justice de-
manded that they should have adequate representa-
tion, but it was never conceded to them. The
Roumanians naturally did not take this treatment
as a matter of course. They protested most ener-
getically both at public meetings and through the
press. How often have their public men been
obliged to flee the country and take refuge in
Roumania for fear of the consequences of their
over-free speech !

When I was in Bucarest I made the acquaintance
of a professor from Transylvania who had been
obliged to leave everything and depart, as he had
been too free in his criticisms of Hungarians and
their methods. According to their law, a certain
number of years had to pass (five, I think) before
he would be permitted to re-enter the country.

About thirty years ago there was formed a
Roumanian National party, whose aims were to
preserve the Roumanian language. Church, and
schools, and also to restore autonomy to Transyl-
vania under the suzerainty of the Hungarian king-

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 253

dom. The petition of this party was refused, and
the leaders of the movement were severely punished.
After that the feeling beeame much more acute,
every fresh act of aggression on the part of the
Hungarians calling forth demonstrations of sym-
pathy for their countrymen from the inhabitants of
Roumania. How often have I been awakened on
such occasions by the crowd parading the streets
singing " Destaaptate-Romane ! " (" Awake, Rou-
mania ! "), the national song of the Roumanians in
Transylvania, which was forbidden to be sung there
under severe penalties ! When staying in Kronstadt
I often used to begin to sing this song unthinkingly,
and what a chorus of " hushes " used to stifle my
efforts !

I began to write this book whilst the war was
still raging and my friends in Roumania were under-
going terrific trials. I have no intention of dealing
here with the sad times which now belong to the
past. I prefer to think of the hopeful future of the
country in which so much of my life was spent.

It is reassuring to know that in the new maps of
Europe, rendered necessary by the decisions of the
Treaty of Versailles, the boundaries of Roumania
enclose as far as appears to be possible the whole
of the Roumanian people, with as few alien elements
as possible included.

There remain without the boundaries, in the
Tinok Valley, the Western Banat, and in Mace-
donia, some five millions of the Roumanian people
who will be included in Jugo-Slavia; and, east of
the Dneister, another five hundred thousand will
be included in Russia.

Many alien elements will remain in Roumania.

254 TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA

The Jews, who, hke the poor, are always with us,
will continue to be represented by a million of their
race. A great colony of Hungarians still occupies
a territory in East Transylvania ; whilst a German
population which settled in Transylvania, Banat,
Bukovina, and Bessarabia at various periods from
the thirteenth to the nineteenth centuries numbers
about eight hundred thousand.

There will still be found some Bulgarians, Turks,
and Tartars in the south of Bessarabia and the
Dobrudja; Serbs, Poles, and Ukranians where
Roumania adjoins Jugo-Slavia, Czecho-Slovakia,
Poland, and the Ukraine ; and a considerable number
of Russian refugees belonging to a strange religious
sect called " Shoptchi," who fled from their own
country to avoid persecution.

Of Roumania's present seventeen million popula-
tion it may be said that some fourteen millions are
pure Roumanians. Outside the country's boundaries
Roumanians number over one million.

When we compare these figures with those which
referred to pre-war Roumania we will find that the
country has cause to rejoice.

In 1916 Roumania had only eight million inhabi-
tants, seven and a half millions of whom were
nationals, constituting only half the race. The
remaining half were citizens of alien countries.

If the ideals of the enlightened Foreign Minister,
M. Take Jonescu (who has always been such a sincere
friend of Britain), are realised, a most important
step will have been taken in the direction of safe-
guarding the peace of Europe. One may hope,
indeed, that the clouds which lowered so persistently
over the Balkans will disappear for ever.

TWENTY YEARS IN ROUMANIA 255

Czecho-Slovakia and Jugo-Slavia, M. Joncscu has
pointed out, have already entered into a defensive
alHance ; and he hopes that not only Roumania, but
Greece and Poland also, may join it, and that the
three defeated countries, Bulgaria, Austria, and
Hungary, may ultimately become members.

The maintenance of the different treaties entered
into since the war will of course be the great purpose
of what M. Jonescu has described as " The Little
Entente " ; but underlying this endeavour will be a
sincere desire to establish such personal relations
as will facilitate the settlement of various differ-
ences which are bound to arise from time to time.

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