TWO WOMEN ABROAD
w >LVT THEY Saw and How They Lived
WHILE TRAVELLING AMONG
The Semi-Civilized People of Morocco, the Peasants of Italy and
France, as well as the Educated Classes of Spain,
Greece, and Other Countries
BY
Adelaide S. Hall
"Pleasure is a shadow, wealth is vanity, and power a
pageant; but knowledge is ecstatic in enjoyment, perennial in
frame, unlimited in space, and infinite in duration."
De Witt Clinton
.MONARCH BOOK COMPANY
(Formerly L. P. Miller & Co.)
CHICAGO, ILL.; PHILADELPHI.\, PA
1897
A duplicate of tins book can be pro-
cured iliroiiKli our authorized agent
of your town, or by writing the
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MONARCH HOOK CO .
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Address the )iouse nearest yon.
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CoPVRic.iiT — iSqy,
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All /*/>///« /^fscrvi'd.
The Engravings in this volume were
made from original photographs, and
are specially protected by Copy-
right, and notice is hereby given
that any person, or persons, guilty of
reproducing, or infringing the Copy-
right in ;uiy way. will be dealt with
according to law.
To THE Companion of My Voyage,
MRS. L. P. MILLER,
THIS SIMPLE STORY OF TRAVEL IS DEDICATED,
WITH APPRECIATION- OF HHH MANY PRACTICAL SUGOESTIONS
ANU DliliP INTEREST IN ITS PREPARATION
MME. LEBRUN AND DAUGHTER, LUUVRE
PUBLISHERS' PREFACE
^:^.
E realize that in introducing to the pubhc "Two
\\'omen Abroad," with the expectation of holding
the reader's interest from beginning to end, we
have undertaken no easy task. The dangers,
discomforts and expense of travel have been so
lessened that thousands of Americans now cross the
ocean in palatial steamers to see for themselves
what was once attainable only through the medium
of books. The columns of the daily press report cur-
rent events from every part of the globe almost as soon as they
occur. Therefore, to publish a book describing the scenes and
incidents of a six months' tour in foreign lands seems almost
absurd.
But, there are tourists and tourists; among them, hosts of
women travelling singh', in pairs and in parties; some, in search of
health, others, for study, but more, for pleasure.
Another class go abroad because it is considered the proper
thing to do, though they gain little knowledge, and, often, not
much real pleasure.
Again, one with an eye cjuick to discern and retain the beau-
tiful, with an ear ready to catch the harmonies of Nature and with
power to interpret her varying moods, may in a short time gather
material for several books, the outgrowth of a tour replete with
profit and delight.
Such a traveller is the author of "Two Women Abroad, "
Mrs. Herman J. Hall, who in company with Mrs. L. P. iNIiller visited
Europe last summer. Mrs. Hall is connected with several prom-
inent women's clubs in Chicago, where she has been President,
vii
viii PUBL/S/fRRS' PREFACE
lor a number of years, of one of the largest Art clubs in the
United States. In lier book she has utilized the extensive knowl-
edge of ]-)ersons and places gained by years of study, and vi\ificd
b}- her recent journey.
The record of the trip is unique. Dry details are eliminated,
while all that is bright, interesting and humorous stands out in
bold relief.
The pen-pictures are artistically wrought and present in a
natural and charming manner the customs of foreign peoples.
The illustrations are an aid to the appreciation of wonderful
scener}-, famous ruins, venerable cathedrals, stately palaces and
the masterpieces of painting and sculpture.
We place this book in the hands of our readers, with the
hope that one reading will stimulate a desire for a second perusal
which will prove even more enjoyable than the first.
The Publishers.
INTRODUCTION
FTER a visit to foreign countries, one realizes more than
ever before the beaut}' and grandeur of America. Neither
the snow-clad Alps nor the Sierra Ne\-adas rising from
an azure sea and the smiling plains of sunny Spain
surpass the grim Rock_v Mountains or the varied scenery
of the Appalachians.
Yellowstone Park, the canons of the western states, Niagara
and the Great Lakes are unique among the wonders of Nature.
The Hudson and the Mississippi need only historic ruins and lordly
castles to rival the ''blue Danube" and the picturesque Rhine.
Not only is our country rich in Nature's gifts, but it rejoices
in men of genius. In Literature and Science, Americans have
won lasting laurels. Longfellow, Hawthorne and Mrs. Stowe are
well known in distant lands, and the eyes of the world are fixed
upon Edison, whose discoveries in electricity seem unending.
Although our Music and Art are still in their infancy, we have
talented artists in both fields, whose achievements are a promise
of future triumphs.
The appreciation of Art is daily increasing and the study of
Art is now included in the curriculum of nearly every important
school in the United States. Galleries and Schools of Design
flourish in the principal cities, developing the taste and talent of
the people.
Nevertheless, we must ever acknowledge our indebtedness to the
ix
INTR OD UCTl ON x
Old World. The Present is, in great measure, the disciple of the
Past, and only by travel can we learn to estimate, justly, the
mature civilization of Europe. The knowkxlge thus gained is one
of the chief elements of culture. But travel is not possible to all;
many must rely upon sources of information, more or less indirect.
I^eproductions of famous works of art have a distinct educa-
tional \alue. Therefore, this story of a summer's wanderings is
embellished with many fine illustrations carefully selected by my
companicju.
The historical references and other data are based upon t'
best authorities, and in a general way the book may serve a^
guide to prospective tourists. Familiar foreign names are use
but those occurring less frequcntlv are translated into English
explained in footnotes.
It the benefits received, and the delight experienced dur-
the journey described and illustrated in this work are shared, e\
in a small degree, by my readers, I shall feel more than repaid
f(ir nu' efforts.
A. S. Hall.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
CIUCACiO
PAGE
An old friend — route — letter of credit — charming widow — wardroln' — alco-
hol lamp — guides — fees — " Bon voyage! " 17
CHAPTER 11
ON BOARD THP; KAISER
Meeting friends — flowers — farewells — the captain — service — steerage pas-
sengers— trumpeter — ship's engines — stokers — concert — Azores — volca-
no— birthday cake 20
CHAPTER HI
GIBRALTAR
Gibraltar — fortifications — Union Jack — cannon — caves — Turks — American
consul — the Alameda — donkeys and monkeys — Spanish pesetas and
English ha' pennies 23
CHAPTER IV
TANGIER
A Moorish chief — pirate-like boatmen — Tangier — customs — native women —
fakirs — Shing — hasheesh — visit to the Governor — harem — prisons — the
Calif a — Belgian Consulate — Berbers — caravan — Mohammedans — mar-
ket place — camels — snake charmers — beggars 27
CHAPTER V
CADIZ
Embarkation at Tangier — carried by natives--extortion — rough sea — Cadiz
in the distance — a chivalrous people — cathedral — Murillo — St. P^ancis —
bullfight — Spanish railway train — primitive ploughing — ignorance and
poverty 39
CHAPTER VI
SEVILLE
Seville — pnisiou — the Giralda — cathedral — mantilla and rose — the Alca-
zar— Pedro the Cruel — House of Pilate — Holy week — national dance —
gypsy wagons — Italica — Roman amphitheater — lions and martyrs 49
COXTEXTS
CHAPTER VII
CORDOVA
PAGE
"Castles in Spain" — Cordova — "El Gran Capitan " — mosque — splen-
did marbles — mosaics — perfumed lamps — baths ot kings — flowers and
goldfish — bridge — peasants — cathedral bells — Spanish soldiers — judg-
ment of Spain 5^
CHAPTER VHI
GRANADA
Eagle's nest — Spanish grandee — American tourists — Senor Carmona — the
Alhambra — Gate of Justice — fountains — stalactites — marble baths —
Court of the Lions — assassination — a Holy of Holies — Boabdil — the
Conquest — summer palace — enchanted garden — watch-tower — Span-
ish kitchen — woman's rights — tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella — g_\ps\-
caves — Columbus — Washington Irving 60
CHAPTER IX
NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
The bay — the city — welcome — moonlight on the sea — Bismarck's birth-
day— transparent ice cream — Sardinia — quaint streets — Easter — mu-
seum— cheese, chestnuts and garlic — wayside shrines — Pompeii —
petrified food — the King's Guard — opera — stubborn mule — jolly
party — Vesuvius — chasm of sulphur — explosions — devilfish — cameos
and corals 77
CHAPTER X
FROM CAPRI TO ISKINDISI
Fishing towns — women porters — blue waters — lemon groves — starry-eyed
girls — roasting coffee — artist's studio — a wooden leg — Turkish corsair —
flowers — Blue Grotto — corals — Roman tyrant — wines and fish — cliff
dwellers — dwarfs — w'istaria — inlaid wood — tarantella — gay costumes —
sea bathing — Boston girls — spinning — mountain roads — picturesque
Amalfi — natural cathedral — St. Andrew — Salerno — Apennine range —
Brindisi — Virgil 94
C1I.\1'T1:K' XI
THE IONIAN ISIJCS
The Achille — fellow passengers — Corfu — drachmas — St. Spiridion — a peas-
ant woman — (jreek churches — royal palace — papyrus — Mouse Island —
Ulysses — "Pan is deadl" — Sappho's leap — Antony and Cleopatra —
Turks and .Vrnnnians 103
CONTENTS xiii
CHAPTER XII
PATKAS TO ATHENS
PAGE
The Professor and the Doctor — cakes and marmalade — Acro-Corinth — St.
Paul — Mt. Parnassus — Oracle of Delphi — navel stone — sacred fire —
canal — Nero's plans — Pentelic marble — Acropolis — Pericles io8
CHAPTER XIII
ATHENS I
Athena and Poseidon — torchlight procession — coffee and masticha — public
buildings — Palace of Ilion — seaside resort — regatta — Crown Prince —
Parthenon — Erechtheum — a concert — education — the Stadium — Queen
Olga — crowning of the victors — Marathon race — agriculture — Greek
church — beads — funeral monuments — Antigone — tinker and tailor —
household shrine — palace and princess — Hymettus honey — St. Irene —
Theseum — Plato — Eleusis — cobblers — Mars Hill — prison of Socrates.. 112
CHAPTER XIV
OLYMPIA TO ROME
Lord Byron — Arcadian valley — Olympia — Temple of Zeus — ivory and gold
— Pelops — Olympian games — gymnasium — wrestlers — the matchless
Hermes — archaeologists — shepherds — washing linen — Greek bag — fam-
il}' moving — hospitality — baroness — quarantine — Tarentum — oysters
and fish — beautiful villa — a joke — drafting soldiers — palace at Caserta
— lapis lazuli and alabaster — a looking-glass — Capua — amphitheater —
Caesar 143
CHAPTER XV
ROME
The eternal city — St. Peter's — queer devotions — American sculptor and his
bride — Vatican — Swiss guards— galleries and gardens — Leo XIII. —
Michael Angelo — " Prince of Painters" — Beatrice Cenci — Roman Eo-
rum — Colosseum — Arch of Constantine — Pauline Borghese — Erench
Academy — a model — King and Queen — churches — picturesque peas-
ants— a dish of brains — the Colonna palace — Palatine Hill — Romulus
and Remus — Appian Way — Claudian aqueduct — catacombs — St. Ce-
cilia— Keats and Shelley — Pantheon — Parliament — flower girls — Ro-
man pansies i j6
CHAPTER XVI
PISA AND FLORENCE
Leaning Tower — Galileo — Savonarola — burned at the stake — Giotto's
Tower — the Baptistery — Ghiberti's Gates — the Uffizi — Pitti Palace —
— Benvenuto Cellini — rare gardens — crickets — carnival of flowers —
"Singing Boys" — a yellow rose — Protestant cemetery — Dante 211
xiv CONTENTS
CHAPTER X\II
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
PAGE
Carrara marble — gray, desolate cliffs — roses and roses — Italian farmhouses
and French cottages — Nice — Francis I. and Charles \. — chateau at Eze
— Monaco — Monte Carlo — beautiful gardens — paintings and statuary
— gambling rooms — perfect decorum — illuminations — serpent of vice —
Genoa — Christopher Columbus — old palaces — "sea without fish" —
Campo Santo — irrigation — Leonardo da Vinci — Milan cathedral — an
emerald cross — roval palace — Napoleon — La Scala — "The Last Sup-
per"— letters of Tasso and Galileo 232
CHAPTER XVlll
VENICE
The Grand Canal — quiet — the Piazza — St. Mark's — pigeons — Winged Lion
and St. Theodore — Palace of the Doges — Giants' Staircase — "Marriage
of St. Catherine" — "Venetia" — Paola Veronese and liis art — Tintor-
etto— Hall of the Great Council — Bridge of Sighs — prison — a marble
bride — Rialto — Ghetto — boiling crabs — a Venetian funeral — Venetian
glass — mosaics — the Brownings — the Lido — Armenian monaster}' —
superstitions — tlie moonlight 246
CHAPTER XIX
SWISS CITIES AND MUNICH
Romeo and Juliet — Como — povert}' — simpletons — the St. Gotthard — pil-
grims— tunnel — William Tell — Lucerne — the Lion — glacier mills — cha-
mois -music — Lake of the Four Forest Cantons — the Rigi — Briinig Pass
— Swiss housewives — a storm — Eden — the Jungfrau — old chalets —
town pump — mountain sprites — a friendh' visit — Thun — feudal castle —
armor — locked beds — Jura mountains — baptism Swiss beds — Berne
— the Nydeck bridge — grotesque fountains — St. Bernard dogs — mam-
moth cask — grand organ — sun spots — lake dwellers — Munich — street
sweepers — Peter Paul Rubens — Bavarian cavalry — royal retreat — a mad
king 268
CHAPTER XX
VIENNA AND BUD.\PEST
The language — German food — ridiculous adventure — weird chant — abbeys
— magnificent cit\' — Emperor and King — invitations — Ring Strasse —
Votive Church — Maria Theresa — jewelled bouquet — the Treasury —
Rothschild's luxuries — liomc of Marie Antoinette — "Beautiful Blue
I)aiirtd)e " — 1 1 ungarian peasants — thousanilth :inniversar\' — gorgeous cos-
tumes— golden coaches — ancient crown — Magvar streets — underground
railway — Os Budavara — the Czardas — gii/yds and F.isi- Kaff,-c — tourna-
ment— I'ranz Josepli — a princess — contest of noblemen — products .... 298
CONTEXTS XV
CHAPTER XXI
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
PAGE
Natural fortress — valley of the Elbe — the Strauss orchestra — Zwinger gal-
lery— the Sistine Madonna — Green Vaults — Luther's goblet — Trump-
eter of Sackingen — stronghold — lawbreakers — ^ Dresden china — ram-
parts— Saxon dames — Queen Carola — Carlsbad — the Spriidel — a ball —
pretty Russian — foreign dancing — Bohemian costumes 326
CHAPTER XXII
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
Moat and towers — dormer windows — stone cutters — Albrecht Diirer — Brat-
wurst-Glocklein — German delicacies — victim of war — heart of a forest
— firs — elves and fairies — Alte Schloss — romantic glen — Undine —
Castle Eberstein — glorious views — legends — nunnery 342
CHAPTER XXI II
THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA-CHAPELLE
Ma^'ence — an adventure — Mouse Tower — Lorelei rocks — ^"Bingen on the
Rhine" — dragon's Jair — Roland — Hildegard — ^broken hearts — Rhine
wines — Cologne cathedral — chocolate factor}' — Aix — three treaties —
Charlemagne's tomb 361
CHAPTER XXIV
THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
From mountains to marsh lands — quarries — d^kes and canals — sunset —
homely architecture — Rembrandt — Mesdag — Scheveningen — -Amster-
dam— Ryks Museum — parrots — mammoth locks — Wilhelnrina — Delft — •
William the Silent — pottery — Rotterdam — Dutch cooks 373
CHAPTER XXV
BRUSSELS AND WATERLOO
Foreign currency — celebrated ball — battle of Quatre Bras — Palace of Jus-
tice— eccentric artist — Brussels lace — Waterloo — the Lion — La Haie
Sainte — La Belle Alliance — two armies — Hougomont — Maitland's
Guards — "All is lost!" — naming the battle — downfall of Napoleon 388
CHAPTER XXVI
PARIS
The tourist's Mecca— city of caf^s — Parisian women — -Eiffel Tower — the
Luxembourg — modern art — Pantheon and Sorbonne — evening rides —
Americans and French — Moulin Rouge — Parisian dishes — Raffaelli —
opera — the market — the national fete — Li Hung Chang — Champs Ely-
x\i CONTENTS
PAGE
sdes — the Louvre— art schools — Gobelin tapestries — Versailles — a roj'al
dairy — Marie Antoinette — Napoleon's tomb — a bluebottle fly — Fon-
tainebleau — Charles Sprague Pearce — American artists — shops — work-
ing classes 400
CHAPTER XXVII
MONT ST. MICHEL, GRANVILLE, AND THE CHANNEL ISLANDS
Norman peasants — farms — a scare — coaching — Benedictine abbey — Gaul-
tier's leap — cloisters — charnel house — eaten by rats — Mnie. Poulard — the
tide — Granville — fishermen's homes — Jersey — jewelry — British soldiers
— Alderney cattle — Guernsey — the Needles — Cowes — a royal wedding. . 448
CHAPTER XXVIII
LONDON
Anglomania — Roman foundations — population — signs — characteristics —
Westminster Abbe}' — Poets' Corner — Chapel of Henry VII. — the Tower
— the warders — crown jewels — Lyceum Theater — British Museum —
South Kensington Museum — -Royal Academ)- — St. Paul's — Zoological
Gardens — a wise elephant — Parliament Buildings — House of Lords —
Westminster Hall — Regent Street — Piccadilly — soda water — Hyde Park
— Rotten Row — St. James's Palace — -the Ragged Schools — Hampton
Court — famous pictures — mammoth grapevine — Twickenham — Pope
— Richmond — maids of honor — Kew — a sail on the Thames — Chelsea
— East Indian dinner — ■■Old Curiosit\' Shop' — Whitechapel — good
Samaritans 455
CHAPTER XXIX
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
Gray's Elegy — Eton — Windsor — St. George's Chapel — Frogmore — O.xford
— students — Christ Church — Gladstone — St. Frideswide's shrine —
Broad Walk — Queen's — ancient customs — Magdalen — martjrs —
"Bloody Mary" — Blenheim — Duchess of Marlborough — Warwick —
— "Last of the Barons" — relics of a giant — peacocks — Warwick vase
— country roads — coaching parties — cyclers — Kenilworth — Queen Eliz-
abeth— Leicester — revelry — rural wedding — St. Mary's — "a grain of
salt" — paradise on earth 484
chapti:r XXX
H O M !■: W A K 1 ) B O U N D !
English railways — Liverpool — two orphans — "Silence" — Queen Vic-
toria— on board the Umbria — two noblemen — the " Ancient and Hon-
orable " — musings — home 506
■LCyi^i^^yT'^ —
TWO WOMEN ABROAD
CHAPTER I
Chicago, February 25, 1806.
^»" Y Dearest Jane: — How I wish I could trauslate vou to
^ T / Et Chicago, seat you in my cozy armcliair and ]iour into
•-.., , r i Hi your friendly ear my precious news; for, Providence
^ and winds permitting, I shall sail for Europe hv the
/J good ship Kaiser Wilhelm, March 7.
You remember when we were children together how
we chatted about the European trip we intcndetl to take
when we were eighteen. You remember, also, how Uncle
B. dampened your enthusiasm by croaking the old Spanish proverb,
"Heaven gives nuts to those who have no teeth to crack them." I
paid little attention to such slurs upon our youth and ignorance then,
but now, that I am many summers beyond eighteen, I feel better
prepared to understand and enjoy such a tour.
Of course, you are brimming over with curiosity as to the
conditions and plans of the journey, so here they are:
In traveling, the next best thing to a letter of credit is an
agreeable companion, and I considered myself fortunate indeed when
Mrs. M., a young and charming widow, decided to accompany
me. She possesses health, good temper and, as my German
music teacher used to say, "Schnap." These qualities, united to
those of an old maid who is a l)it nervous, cranky and very am-
bitious, will certainly make us a unicjue pair. And, if the usual law
of contrasts holds good, we shall manage to get on comfortal)lv. The
principal object of the trip is to see some of the most important
art treasures of Europe, so we contemplate covering a good deal
of ground.
As you know my repertoire of languages includes Spanish as
17
i8
Tiro U'O.UF.X ABROAD
well as French, so we have decided on the southern route, going
from ("lihraltar to Spain; from there, via Italy, to Greece; thence to
liungary, and home by way of France and England, making short
stops in countries which lie along the route.
Our time limit is to be six months and our funds one thousand
dollars each. I hear you
say "Impossible!" for, in
America, it would cost
twice that sum to travel
almost continuously, for
the same length of time,
but we are determined to
try, and feel confident
that we shall succeed.
In the first place,
though traveling first class
^^^^^^^^^^^^ by water, we shall take
ji^i ■ ^^Hr^^^^^^^^t ^^^^^^^^^ second or third class tick-
ets on land, shall engage
a modest room, with two
beds, at the native hotels,
and not patronize those
especially arranged to
capture the unwary tour-
ist. Our luncheons and
dinners can be procured
at restaurants wherever
we happen to be at meal time, thus avoiding the loss of time in-
curred in returninij,' to the hotel before finishing the sicht-seeiny;
planned lor the day. As to breakfasts, directly opposite me,
reposing on a chair, is a box containing an alcohol lamp, accom-
panied 1))- a miniature frying-pan for eggs, two spoons, knives and
a tea-steeper.
By prowling about the markets and bakeshops we shall not
only be able to study the various types of people, but also secure
fresh rolls, jiats of butter, fruit and eggs.
As to wardrobe, one stout, serviceable" suit and steamer cap,
OLD WORLD CASTLE
ril'O Jl'OMEN ABROAD
19
a black silk i^own, a fancy waist and small bonnet for evening
wear, black underclothing (including China silk night robe), two
pairs of stout shoes, a heavy and a light wrap will be sufficient.
The outfit can be stowed in two leather-bound telescopes and,
with small bags for toilet articles and necessary medicines, will
constitute our entire baggage. This can be carried with us in
cabs and stowed in the racks of railway carriages, thus sa\ing
expense, for one pays by weight for trunks and chests in foreign
countries.
We shall employ guides only when absolutely necessary, and
shall not present servants with larger fees than the natives give.
By strictl}- adhering to these principles, the problem of expense
will be solved in part.
I intend to keep a journal and, if you will promise not to be
bored, will send a weekly budget. You shall thus determine
whether we illustrate the old saying of Robbie Burns: "The best
laid .schemes o' mice an' men gang aft agley, " or whether just
like two women we utterly rout old notions and prove to the
world that we can plan and execute to the letter.
So, au rcvoir, ma cherie! When next you receive a line from
me it will come from Gibraltar's rock-bound coast; and now I
seem to hear your voice floating across the miles that stretch be-
tween us in a fervent "Bon Voyage!"
CHAPTER II
ON BOARD THE KAISER WILHELM
■^-^- \III'^ morninj^- of the seventh, we reached the docks of
- ■<~fc)\ tlie North German Lloyd Steamship Company and
Jj^ f7^ found the great ship throbbing and straining at the
^,S 1^/ cables which bound lier to land.
/ip^i \\ Upon entering our stateroom the mingled fragrance
'" r,/ of roses, lilies and carnations greeted us. Boutjuets
were heaped up on dressing table and berths, to say
nothing of a score of letters and telegrams containing last messages
and all sorts of advice.
At tlic end of a delightful hour spent on deck with friends
from New ^'ork the signal was given for visitors to go ashore,
'i'hen came tlic farewells, some pathetic, some amusing, especially
that of a pair of lovers, who had been sitting very close together
behind om; of the smokestacks. They threw kisses to each other
franticallv, until the spectators were in convulsions of laughter.
The passengers with their bouquets crowded to the rail, and the
ship must have appeared to those on land like a huge flower garden.
Soon we were under way, handkerchiefs began to wave and
last words were exchanged. As tlu> shores of t)ur native land
receded and the friends were lost to siglit, many a hitherto happy
face grew sober, and now and then we would hear a suppressed sob.
The Kaiser is a finch' ajipointed shi]i recently built. The
service is excellent and we are enjoxiiig the vo)'age, despite the
rough weather that somt^times makes our heads swim and the
dishes tumble about. In fact, we generally eat in fear and trembling
lest the contents of soup plate or tumbler should be precipitated
into our lajis. The Captain, big, burly, white-haired and red-faced,
has a kindlv word for everybodv on board.
Now and then for recreation we li'an over the rail of the aft
20
ox A'O.IA'/) /■///■: K.USF.R WII.III-'.IM
21
upper (U'ck and watcli the steeras;;c passengers eating their meals
or phning games. One d;i\' I saw a grdup rnjM\ ing kcno, and the
caller drew with a grim\- paw the nuinlicrs iroin a bag that lnoked
as if it had seen \ ears of service.
There is a very old man and wciman who sit apart trom the
others. He is devoted to her, and it is interesting, though pitiful,
to see him untie an old soiled rag and take out some chunks of
bread, and a dried up sausage, and with his battered clasj) knife
STEAiVlSHiP KAISEK /, .LHEL.M
slice off portions to share with his toothless wife. The children,
though very cunning, are just like the little vagabonds that wander
around the streets at home, playing on an accordion or a tambourine.
We are awakened each morning bv the trumpeter, who goes
up and down the deck playing a little German air about "be
joyous while you may," rather depressing and incongruous when
one is suffering from mal dc mcr.'''
One evening the party at our table were invited by the chief
engineer to visit the furnace rooms of the steamer. We were
nearly an hour inspecting the three engines, twent^'-six furnaces
*Seasickness.
22 ON BOARD THE KAISER WILIIELM
and inammotli steel screw. Fifty-tour stokers work in relays, four
liiHirs on (lul\' and ei<iht ofi. The sight of these men bathed in
perspiration, toiling, half clad, in the frightful heat, suggested
Dante's Inferno.
Good music is one of the features of the German Lloyd serv-
ice, and the concerts given during the dinner hour and on deck
during the evening are very enjoyable.
We sighted the Azores on the twelfth of March, and regretted
that we could not stop there. Pico, which lies to the southeast of
Fayal, was quite a picture. From its center rises a volcano, so
wrapped in clouds that often only the summit is visible. The
ship .sailed (juite close to the shore and the houses could be seen
distinctly, their red roofs clustered at the base of the mountain.
The city of Angra, capital of the group, is delightfully situated on
the island of Terceira. The Governor's house, built in Moorish
style, made a strong point in the landscape.
Flocks of mountain sheep run over the steep sides of the
islands, like flies on a wall. The people are said to be thrifty and
li.ipp}-, though their only means of communication with the world
is a steamer from Lisbon once a month.
We have made some very pleasant acquaintances among our
fellow passengers, and are sorry that only two of them are going
to stop at Gibraltar.
Yesterday was the l)irthday of a German lady who sits at
our table and is so jolly that she is a general favorite. She was
surprised at dinner when a fine cake, with her name wrought in
the frosting, was placed before her, "with the compliments of the
Captain." She immediately cut a jiiecc for each one of us, and
sent a generous slice to the commander. Accompanied by her
\vitt\- r<'marks, the act caused a good deal of merriment.
We are due at Gibraltar to-morrow, and are looking forward to
our first view of the rock.
CHAPTER III
GIBRALTAR
IBRALTAR is before us! It looks like a great lion crouch-
ing in readiness for a spring. The sky is a celestial
blue, the air is balmy, and with Spain's rugged coast on
one side and the low-lying hills of Africa on the other
we feel that we are indeed approaching foreign shores on
the bosom of strange waters.
Gibraltar has been an English fortress since 1704,
when it was captured during the war of the Spanish succession by
Sir George Rooke. Persistent efforts have been made by the Span-
ish and French to wrest from the aliens this key to the Mediter-
ranean and the East, but the Union Jack still floats from the pin-
nacle of the stronghold twelve hundred feet above the sea. Gib-
raltar is a natural fortress. On one side the sheer wall of the cliff
forms an impregnable defense and on the other is a network of
batteries. Galleries wide enough for a carriage to pass are cut in
the solid rock, and the black muzzles of cannon project through the
portholes. The summit is crowned by a gun having a range of five
miles, and an electric connection makes it possible to aim and fire
the gun from a station below.
Geologically, the rock is very curious. The lower strata are
gray limestone and the upper striped with pale bluish shales,*
while shells are found fully four hundred and fifty feet above the
present sea level. As is not uncommon in limestone formations,
there are many passages and caves, the most noted being St.
iMichael's Cave, where the central hall is fifty feet high and hung
with magnificent stalactites. At the foot of the rock lies the town,
with a population of about 24,000.
Slat}' structure.
23
24
GIBRALTAR
The Kaiser cast anchor in the bay, for there are -no docks
for ocean steamers, and was at once surroundetl h\ craft tliat had
been awaitint; our approach. CHmbing down the hanging;' ladder
of the steamer, we boarded a launch and sped away to the land-
ing. There was a perfect babel of sound. Porters, cabmen, beg-
gars, ell)owed one another and shouted out the merits of the
different hotels or conveyances, or implored charity. Fortunately
we had made an arrangement with the agent of the Royal Hotel
before leaving the steamer; so after passing the custom-house in-
spection (an easy matter in Gibraltar, which is a free port), we
started on our long walk through the town, preceded by the agent
and a donkey cart with the telescopes and followed by two fat
little urcliins carr)'ing the handbags.
We almost fancied ourselves in Cairo Street at tlic World's
Fair, so motley was the crew we met, so quaint the narrow
way, with its rough pavement and sidewalks scarce wide enough
for two people to walk abreast. On either side were shops hung
willi rugs, drajieries and curios, until it seemed as if the entire
stock of each was tumbling out of the doors and windows. Down
the center of the thoroughfare jogged little donkeys bearing panniers
filled with huit or vegetables, their plump sides belabored by bare-
legged Moors.
GIBRALTAR 25
A couple of English soldiers curbed their horses to chat with
a pretty Spanish girl, a lace mantilla about her rounded tlnoat,
the point fastened coquettishly to the crown of her head.
In one open doorway an Egyptian sat making hligree* silver
ornaments, in another a Turk surrounded by cjuecr bits of pottery
and brass — presenting cjuite an Oriental picture.
Reaching the hotel after this interesting but rather warm tramp
we were shown into a cool, quiet room, with whitewashed walls
and plain but comfortable furniture.
Luncheon was followed Ijy a drive, the coachman being a red-
headed son of the Emerald Isle. The way that little cart rattled
up and down the roughly paved streets was exhilarating; now tak-
ing us to the bank to draw both English and Spanish money on our
letters of credit, then to the steamer office to have the stop-over
tickets recorded.
After the business was attended to, we called upon the American
Consul, Mr. Sprague, to whom we presented our greatest treasure,
a personal letter from tlie Secretary of State, introducing us to
American ministers and consuls abroad.
We had a pleasant call and were given the information we
sought. We wished to know if it were safe to travel in Spain at
that time, having been told that the Spaniards keenly resented the
sympathy expressed by Americans in general with Cubans in their
rebellion against the mother country. He assured us that the
animosity, so much talked of in our daily papers, was largely im-
aginary; that no matter how deep the resentment Spaniards might
feel toward the men of our country, they were always courteous
and gallant to ladies, and that we might go anywhere in Spain
with more real safety than at home.
Mr. Sprague has held his office for forty-two years, succeeding
his father. He is a fine looking old gentleman with foreign man-
ners, and lives in a Spanish house with a court in the center filled
with tall palms.
The Alameda f is a perfect jungle of trees, shrubs and blossom-
* Ornamental work in gold or silver wire.
"{"Public gardens.
26 GIBRALTAR
ing i^lants. Tailless monkeys come down from their haunts on the
bare rocks above to rob tlie fruit trees, but their number has been
greatly reduced of late years.
Although there are no important works of art in Tangier, the
journey is so short that we intend to go there for a few days and
thus catch a glimpse of African life.
Mrs. M. is sitting near an open window, while I write, studying
the foreign coins. There is the Spanish peseta, which is the silver
coin in general use; it is worth about nineteen cents, in our money.
This is divided into one hundred centimos, the usual pieces con-
taining five or ten centimos each. The difficult part of it all is,
that there are coins of nearly the same size, but differing in value,
and, covered with strange devices. Add to this the fact that the
people here use both English and Spanish currenc}-, and do you
wonder that we are nearly money mad? In my dreams I see these
dreadful pesetas sitting in rows on the footboard of my bed. They
seem to wink at the English ha' pennies and then leer at me with
a we'll-cheat-you-vet air.
(
CHAPTER IV
TANGIER
E had a delightful trip, a matter of three hours, to this
the chief seaport of Morocco. The straits were like
'^ a millpond and the passengers interesting, especially
1^^ a fine looking elderly Moor, who was a model of
repose and dignity. He could speak a little Spanish
and we discovered that he was the Governor of the
■w—^ \ ^ Ri'f district in Morocco.
-■-■^--'^ Xhe city of Tangier lies on the shores of a
beautiful bay and rises in the form of an amphitheater.
The outline of its low white houses is broken by the slender minaret
of a Mohammedan mosque.
Several dilapidated cannon placed upon a wall, backed by a
shabby building, constitute the defenses. An old-fashioned gun
boat, once a Scotch merchantman, composes the Sultan's navy.
As we were leaning against the railing of the steamer, waiting
for one of the craft of Messrs. Cook & Co., we were surprised by
the sight of fullv a dozen boats, each containing from eight to ten
natives, pulling as madly for our steamer as if for a goal at a race
course. When they reached the ship they swarmed over the sides,
with yells that sounded to our unaccustomed ears like war whoops,
and began to gather up the baggage and throw it into the small
boats. Soon they were squabbling among themselves over their
spoils, which they snatched from one another, and it was nearly half
an hour before our possessions were all together in the launch be-
longing to our agent and we were seated beside them.
On entering the town of Tangier, one passes under the Bab
al Marsa,* where two solemn-looking Moors, sitting cross-legged
on the ground, keep watch and guard. They are the only cus-
tom-house officers and glanced with apparent amusement at the
*Gate of the harbor. 27
28
TAXGIER
contents of our bags, whicli we were obliged to open before them,
but they soon ahowed us to proceed.
As we went u)) through the crooked streets pavt-d with cobble
stones our American features and costumes attracted many curious
glances from the native women who stood in the open doorways.
They were enveloped in long, white garments of a material like
Turkisli toweling, one end being brought across the lower portion
of the face, leaving only the eyes exposed.
A disagreeable odor permeates everything in Tangier, even to
HARBOR OF TANGIER
the very bread we eat; and if that is the bread, which we saw carted
uncoNcrcd through the streets we wonder that we have the courage
to eat it at all.
Horrible looking fakirs, covered with ulcers, dragged themselves
across the path to incite our sympathies. Beggars thrust their
filthy hands before our faces, until we were glad to stop with others
of the jiartv from the Kaiser, at the nearest hotel, instead of walk-
ing a half mile further for the sake of finding a less expensive one.
However, if it is necessary, wc can live on bread and salt in Spain
and thus average our expenses.
«.
LOW LIFE IN TANGIER
30 TANGIER
We have a pleasant room at tlie Continental Hotel overlooking
the bay, and as I go to the window now thoughts of home and
loved ones bring tears to my eyes. I can see the lights along the
curves of the moonlit shore, the rugged outlines of Spain in the
distance giving strength to the picture. The water laps softly
against the beach, the stillness now and then broken bv the
"Wa ha galiba ilia Allah,"* the Mussulman war crv, in the same
mellow tones that we used to hear on the Midway.
Our first dinner in Africa was "good but not very fillin', " as
a little boy once remarked. It was served in the usual tabic
d'lioti\ style, in numerous courses, by native servants, their black
skins looking like polished ebony against the snowy whiteness of
linen gowns and turbans.
One of the courses was a cake fried in oil. It resembled a
plain fritter and is called shiyig in Arabic. It is eaten without
sauce of any kind and was not at all palatable to us. Many stalls
in the market place are hung with iron kettles where natives pre-
pare these cakes for the caravans, just as itinerant bakers sell
waffles or pancakes from their wagons; but the sight of a hideous
Moor mixing the batter with his fingers and then tossing it from
hand to hand prior to its final fling into the sizzling oil is not
stimulating to the American appetite, though the camel drivers
devour them with a gusto born of the desert.
The first evening our party attended a native concert that
was not at all bad. The musicians sat upon the floor in rows antl
between numbers smoked tiny pipes filled with fias/iccsli, a kind
of opium. It is obtained by boiling the leaves and flowers of a
native hemp with a little butter.
The following morning we each mounted a diminutive donkey,
and, accompanied by a tall dignified-looking guide by the name of
Mesmudi, we proceeded to do the town.
My animal was led by a boy whose entire English vocabularv
was comjirised in the words "all right," spoken interrogatively each
time I gave a half suppressed shriek, which was frequent, as the
saddle persisted in turning somersaults. Tangier streets run up
*There is no conqueror but God.
|Public dining table in a hotel.
TAXCIER
31
and down steep hills and are so narrow that if one meets a donkey
with a load it is an anxious moment.
We stopped first at the Governor's palace and found His Wor-
ship at the end of a lonj^- hall. lie was seated cross-legged on a
rug placed on a
dais. Along the
sides of the apart-
ment were i^ows
of saddles, some
of fine leather and
elaborately em-
bossed. These
articles, it is said,
constitute a large
part of his wealth.
We shook hands
with him twice,
which is the cor-
rect thing to do,
and then passed
out to the open
square, where the
Califa, * who is the
Vice-Go ver nor,
sat holding court.
This man de-
cides irrevocably
all common ques-
tions of law. The
plaintiff and defendant appear before him and plead their own cases.
There is no jurv. The Califa gives his decision and sends one to
prison, permitting the other to depart. Knotty questions are sub-
mitted to the Governor. The guide told us that it was a mere
matter of money, and that the judge was always open to bribery.
The Governor of small villages is called a Sheik, and we met
UNMARRIED WOMAN, TANGIER
•"Judge.
32 TANGIER
one that day, as fine a speciman of Moorish nobihty as one would
be hkely to see, tearing down the street on a splendid horse.
In the Governor's harem we were presented to one of his wives,
a son and a daughter. They received us in a large court open to
the sky and surrounded by arcades. From this court, ]->a\-ed with
beautiful tiles, open small apartments which serve as bed chambers
and are furnished only with mattresses placed upon the floor and
covered with white sheets and pillows. All around the edge of the
rug which lav in the center of the dining-room are similar divans
for the inmates to lounge upon during their repasts. The dishes
are cracked and of common ware. About the difierent rooms were
open baskets containing the ktis-kns, which looked like cold plum
pudding.
The wife, who is about forty years of age, still shows traces
of beauty, while the soft black eyes and pale olive cheeks of the
daughter are most attractive.
The people of Tangier are so poor, that even the officials are
unable to pn)\ide many comforts for their women. As I knew this,
I ventured to ask the daughter if she would sell me the hoop
hanging from one of her ears. After a good deal of bargaining, in
which even the servants took part, I became the proud owner of
a rude silver circle large enough for a bracelet and strung with an
Oriental pearl and a purple glass bead. It was handmade and a
good specimen of Moorish handicraft.
From the harem it was but a step to the prison, where we
looked through small openings in the stone wall into the room
where the poor wretches, who have chanced to incur the displeasure
of the Califa, were herded like cattle. Some were chained in pairs,
and all looked the picture of despair. They are allowed to weave
baskets, which tourists are importuned tt) purchase.
()ur (linike)s were very tired b_\- the time thev had borne us
to the residence of the Belgian Consul, so we left them in charge
ot the guides and took a stroll through the beautiful gardens about
the house, one of the sights of Tangier. There were walks lined
willi palms, cacti, bananas and a tree called in Spanish ca?i/-
panita, covered with white llowers, resembling somewhat an Easter
lily. The head gardener, who had visited America, presented us
TANGIER
33
witli ;i bouquet of roses and <;craniums. The latter often j^row to
a height of six feet and form hcd^jes along the country roads.
There was a fine view of Ml. Washmgton a short distance from
the gardens, and of the white road leading from the town, wliicli
winds along to- ,
ward the desert
and disappears
behind the hills.
About four in
the afternoon we
went to the Amer-
ican Consulate,
where we met Dr.
Barclay and his
wife, who are ver}'
delightful. The
Doctor showed us
many documents
and papers be-
longing to his
great-grandfather,
who was the first
consul to Tangier
and who was ap-
pointed by George
Washington. His
p a p e r s w e r e
signed by both
Washington and
Jefferson. A curious old desk used by the former was one of the
treasures of the house. These good people urged us to i)rolong
our visit and promised to take us about the city and to a rece))tion,
but we were unable to accept.
Returning to the hotel by way of the market place, we saw a
caravan which had just arrived from across the desert: in all there
were about twent\' camels. The tents had been pitched tor the
night and some of the people were preparing to retire; for the
3
HIGH CASTE MOORISH WOMAN
34 TANGIER
morrow was the great Sokko or market day, and they were weary
from the long journey.
Groups of women were sitting upon the ground with flat, round
cakes of bread piled up m front of them, their mantles over their
heads. The men monopolize the vegetable and flower trade, and
hold up their nosegays of violets and roses, quite unconscious of
tlie incongruity of it all. The children are thick as flies, all pretty,
jikimi) and bubbling over with fun. If it were not for the loatli-
some beggars that creep and crawl like slimy things, or lie at full
length on the ground, moaning and whining, it would be quite a
gay scene.
The Bab al Sok* terminates the long street that begins at the
Bab al Alarsa, and is crossed by others that wind in and out in
the most perplexing and Bostonian fashion and, what is worse, are
nameless.
Coming over on the boat from Gibraltar, I had a talk with an
English missionary doctor who li\-es at Tetuan, one of the interior
cities. He said cruelty toward the women is common, many wives
being beaten to death. A Moor can be divorced by simply paying
the equivalent of two dollars to the Sheik, or Governor, and can
marry as soon afterward as he pleases. The people are very super-
stitious and are firm believers in the Evil Eye.
The Berbers were chief among the aborigines of Morocco, and
the Kabyles are the best branch of that race.
Grant Allen, in one of his works, has given a vivid picture of
the daily life of this industrious tribe of the mountains, who live
in houses of stone or clay, own their lands and cultivate figs, olives
and tobacco, besides making a fair quality of wine. They are a
great contrast to the shiftless, wandering Arabs of the plains, who are
content ti) dwell in tents and snatcli ;i lixing anywhere and anyhow.
Art of a crude sort exists among tlie Kabyles. They have
ev(>n produced etchings and engravings and attained no mean skill
in wood-carving.
The heads ot the males are shorn with the exception of one
tuft ()( hair, wliich is braided and hangs down on one side like a
*Gate of the market.
TANGIER
35
queue. Bv this lock they lielievc the angel of death will take
ihem up to heaven.
The people of Morocco seem to be of three classes: The
Berbers or Mountaineers, the Arabs, who inhabit the lowlands, and
the Jews. The word Moor is used to designate in general the city
A LiK'AVAN, TANGiER
born. All are white at birth that have no mixture of negro blood
in their veins, and it is to the air and the sunshine that they owe
their swarthy skins.
A wild berry grows in the neighborhood of Fez* from which
is extracted a peculiar red dye. This is used in coloring the leather
which we call red morocco and also the tasseled cap worn by the
unmarried men of the Mohammedan faith and usually termed a
fez. For many years the secret of making this dye was possessed
* An interior cit\' of Morocco.
36
TANGIER
exclusively by the Moors, but now it is sliared by the French and
the Ciermans.
Tanj^ier, whose population is about 20,000, carries on a Hourish-
inj,' trade with Gibraltar, and exports leather, coarse wool and i^ot-
tery. The mackerel fishing is fairly good in the bay. The herb-
ao-e is poor, and there are almost no trees in or near the city, and
the productive farm lands are far from the coast. Mules and
donkeys feed on thistles and the few horses on a green stufif called
rhihicli, according to our guide's spelling.
On the following day we arose early and wended our way to
the Sok or market to enjoy the sights. Here, was a group of
Moors squatting in the dirt selling pottery of the rudest kind for
kitchen use, their wares spread out upon the ground, there, another
with baas of bar-
ley or vegetables
that had been
brtiught by car-
avan the night be-
fore, as well as
camels with their
n u r s i n g )• o u n g,
and women bear-
ing pitchers of
goats' milk.
We asked the
guide if the wo-
m e n w e n t t o
church often, as
we had just passed
the mosque, where
miMi onl\' were fil-
ing in and out, and
he looked at us in
surprise. ' ' Whv,
^o church, women
"Then you don't
and said: "Oh, no,
SNAKE CHARMER, TANGIER
no," he said in his cpiaint English, " Women no
no Mohannncdan, onlv men go jiray. " 1 said:
belie\X' women have souls." And he l.iughec
PRINCIPAL STREET AND MOSQUE
38
TANGIER
women no have them." Christians are never permitted to enter
their places of worship and so we could not see the interior, much
to our re,t,'ret. I have heard since that the mosque at Fez includes
a chapel for the gentler sex.
After having witnessed the antics of a snake charmer, who
was sitting upon the ground with a bag of reptiles before him, and
who, for the consideration of a few pennies, would put them through
a number of tricks, we hurried back to the Continental to pack
up. Early to-morrow we shall take the steamer for Cadiz — a city
on the west coast of Spain.
CHAPTER V
CADIZ
^4 of
HEN, raising our dizzy heads from the pillow on that
memorable ' ' to-morrow, " we looked through the saloon
windows of the steamer and saw Cadiz in the dis-
tance, we felt like lost souls that had been in Purga-
tory and now wandering in Hades, could catch afar
off a glimpse of Paradise.
On coming down to the qua}' at Tangier, to
take the boat for the above celestial cit\', we observed
a blue flag floating conspicuously from a building near
the water. This, we were informed, meant a high sea, and conse-
quenth' double tariff" to the steamer. Imagine our dismay when,
upon reaching the edge of the landing, we found several brawny
natives knee deep in the water, with arms outstretched to receive
and bear us to the small boats about twenty feet away. They
grabbed us as if we were bags of meal, and over their shoulders we
went and were lugged to the boats and dumped in. But that was
a mere bagatelle to the ride which followed. How the boat tossed
on that awful sea! now rising to the very crest of a wave, moun-
tain high, then engulfed in a green abyss.
When near the steamer we were compelled to literally empty
our pocketbooks by the pirate-like Moors, each in turn demanding
a peseta, besides the double tariff. We dared not refuse, and the
only other passengers in our l)oat, a party of Germans among whom
were three men apparently endowed with average mental and phys-
ical powers, did not offer the slightest resistance. Nevertheless,
the deck of the Joaquin Pielago was finally reached and we were
minus only a silk umbrella, belonging to my companion, which had
sought the l)riny depths.
39
40
CADIZ
It \i)U ever trv to climb up the swinging stairway of a steamer
from a n)\vf)oat, while tlie latter is tossing on tremendous waves,
with half a dozen other craft manned b_v black devils trying to
push it awa)' and embark their passengers before you, you will
realize, and not until then, what we did that dreadful day. After
getting under way, we attempted to compose ourselves, but that
was impossijjle. We were at once attacked by seasickness and
were so ill that we crawled downstairs into the small saloon, out
of \\hirli opened a room with a narrow cushioned bench along
its sides. By gestures I inquired of a man, evidently a steward,
if we could lie down there. He nodded, and l)rought us pillows
at once. The lurching of the ship threw me with the greatest
\iolenre to the floor three times, when I gave up in despair, and
lay thert,' for the rest of the seven long hours before we reached
Cadiz. I thought of the man who, in the first hour of suffering with
this particular malady, was afraid he was going to die and the second,
was alarmed lor tear \\v would not. I know I tasted the boneset tea
Mother gave me twenty years ago. In spite of all, I actually
42 CADIZ
lau.!;!u'd when Mrs. M. remarked in a stifled voice that if a cara\-an
came along going to Chicago, she would take it. When you see a
real caravan you will appreciate the humor in the remark.
Such looking creatures as we were on reaching port, with our
eyes protruding and faces swollen, — but we gathered our belongings
together as best we could and descended into the landing-boat,
manned this time bv men, untutored but chivalrous. They assisted
us to reach the custom-house, where the Superintendent, noticing
my pallor, ushered me into his private office, while' my companion
heroically attended to the baggage alone. Then engaging a cab
for us, he gave the driver the name of the Hotel de France, where we
found excellent accommodations, and after a good night's rest we
felt as well as ever.
The pride of Cadiz is her cathedral called La Nueva* (1720-
1832), an irregular jiile, with the bronze monument of the bishop,
who was instrumental in completing the interior, placed in the plazaf
directly in front of the entrance. Connected with this cathedral
are one hundred and fiftv priests, headed, at present, by Bishop
Calvo. The interior of the building is well proportioned. The
high altar, which was presented by Isabella II., is lavishly decorated
with silver and gold. It is placed directly under the dome and
is bathed in a soft heliotrope light produced b)- the blending of
the purple and red used in the windows of the clear-stor)'. \
Another point of interest is the old Capuchin Convent (now
occupied only by custodians), where is treasured the "Marriage of
Saint Catherine," the last picture of Murillo, the master of religious
painting in Spain. He was at work upon this canvas in 1682 when
h(; fell from the scaffolding and received fatal injuries. It repre-
sents the \'irgin holding the infant Jesus, who is placing a ring upon
the finger of the beautiful and devout St. Catherine, who kneels
before him. During Alurillo's lifetime the strictest laws controlled
the work of artists in Spain. In accordance with these laws the
feet of his Madonnas were never visible and the prescribed colors,
* The New.
f S(]UMrc'.
|An upper story rising clear abm-c llu- ailjoinini,' parts of a liuiiiliiiL;. some-
times written clcre story.
CADIZ 43
blue and white, tor the mantle and ch'aperies were always emjiloyed.
His flesh tints are delightfully warm and soft, eliciting the remark
from one critic, that: — "Against the dark gray background his
faces looked as if painted in blood and milk." INIurillo can be
studied best in the galler\- at Seville, where, we are told, his three
distinct styles are represented. A picture of St. Francis, executed
in Murillo's best manner, hangs on a side-wail of the same room
and made a very deep impression upon m_\' mind, — it approached
so nearlv the perfection of painting.
St. Francis, born at Assisi, Italy, in 11S2, was the founder of
the Franciscan order. At the age of twenty-five he became a monk,
leading a life of the utmost poverty and purity. One day at his
devotions near Alt. Averno, he prayed that he might have visible
proof ot the love of Christ b\- being permitted to bear some mark
of his mortal sufiering; in this ecstasy of prayer it is said that he
had a vision of Glory, and immediately the s/ii^iimfa or wounds of
the nails appeared upon his hands and feet. The fact that these
marks were actually lound upon his body leads us to remember that
similar phenomena have been jiroduced, so it is claimed, by phy-
sicians who exercised certain influences upon hysterical patients in
the hospitals of France.
The picture mentioned above shows the monk at prayer; the
form of the Crucified One faintly outlined in the shadows of the cell;
the face of the saint upturned with the most touching expression
of love mingled with sweet humility; while a divine light radiates
from the vision and envelops the figure of the suppliant.
As we had expressed a desire, when leaving the hotel, to visit
the Plaza de Toros, or bull ring, our guide conducted us from the
convent across a great square to a circular building, and, after ar-
ranging the fee with a man in charge, gained us admittance. When
we entered the arena, inclosed by tiers of seats ranged one above
the other, we were impressed by its size. A grand box is placed
on one side for the President of the festival and directly opposite,
one for the owners of the animals. To the right is the entrance
for bulls, to the left, for horses. Our guide informed us that the
bulls were brought to the stalls in groups of six the night jirevious
to the fight, were not fed, and that, from that time on, the
44
CADIZ
stalls were kept perfectly dark, so that, when the animals rushed
forth into the bright sunlis^ht, after twenty-four hours of fasting, they
would be more ferocious
than ever. The cost of
each group of bulls is
about two thousand dol-
lars, and the owner furn-
ishes forty horses; gener-
ally, worthless creatures.
If the bulls prove very
active and the sujijilv of
horses be insufficient,
others must be procured
at once, and, if necessary,
taken from the carriages
near by. Their sufferings
are often very great, for,
when the bull only suc-
ceeds in inflicting a gash
in their sides, it is sewed
up and they are sent
again into the arena to
meet a worse, or shall
we say a more merciful,
fate in death.
There are three sets
of men in the ring. First, the Picadores, who wear broad-brimmed
hats, and, with legs incased in leather and iron, sit upon their
horses at the entrance to the arena, and attract the attention of
the Inill as he rushes in. They carry a /zVt? or short spear, toward
oil violent attacks; they are subject to many hairbreadth escapes.
Next conic the Ijanderilleros, who take greater risks than the Pica-
dores. Their part in this brutal sport is to launch darts, decorated
with long streamers, at the shoulders of the Inill, thus increasing
his rage. Just aljove the tips of these darts are fastened torpedoes,
which e\plo(l(' when striking the flesh, making the tortured creature
bound into the air. A clever Banderillero will sometimes sit in a
;fir: -..H BAMIlEf-; lleko
DRESSED FOR THE BULL FIGHT
46 CADIZ
chair, and, awaiting the attack of the beast, fix his darts, one in
each shoulder, and shp aside just in time to escape the lowered
horns which demolish the chair.
The most important actor, and the last to appear upon the
scene, is the Toreador costumed in the richest of satin embroid-
ered in gold or silver. With his cape over his left arm and sword
in hand he walks toward the President's box. There he halts, and,
flinging his cape upon the ground, swears to perform his dutv.
After receiving the order from the President to kill the bull, he
generally advances into the center of the arena, and by waving his cape
attracts the attention of the animal, which previous to this moment
has been distracted b}- the combined efforts of the Picadores and
Banderilleros. The Toreador is the darling of the people and
must necessarily possess a keen eye, steady nerve and firm hand.
The sword-thrust to dispatch the now thoroughly enraged creature,
that bounds forward with flaming eyes and bleeding wounds, must
be (juick and sure. Not a second too soon or too late, but just
as the fearful horns seem about to raise the Toreador from the
ground, there is a swift movement, an agile spring to the left, and
the weapon has entered the quivering flesh between the shoulder
blades. The animal, only a moment before such a dangerous
assailant, falls lifeless at the feet of the victor who waves his sword
triumphantly above his head.
This bull ring seats 14,000 people. The admission is six
pesetas;* but, no matter how poor the Spaniard, he can always
scrape together enough to enable him to enjoy the national sport.
The ladies on such festal occasions don their gala costumes
and always wear a white mantilla instead of the usual black one.
It is a curious fact that such an element of cruelty and blood-
thirstiness should enter into the character of these admirable
and agreeable people. The bull seems to be considered the com-
mon enemy of the race; so that the very babies play at bull-fight-
ing. After all, is it really much worse as a spectacle than a
prize fight where human beings pound each other to a jellv, ap-
plauded and encouraged b\' men of sujijiosed education and refine-
* §1.20.
CADIZ 47
mcnt; or ;i hunt in which gentle women ride with pleasure to sec
a fox torn l)y the tan,i;s of a pack of hounds?
\\'an<ing ironi tlie huh ring to the hotel we jiassed an old
lavakn'io or public j^lace where the Moors washed their feet and
hands betore entering the mosque, which has since been converted
into the bishop's house.
Cadiz is built on a point of land jutting from the west coast
of Spain into the ocean, and, on account of its shape, is called
La Taza de Plata.*
As we left the city on our way to Seville, tlie train was a great
curiosit}' to us. The cars open at the side, each compartment
seating onh' eight people. There are no bells on the locomotives
in Spain, but when the train is about to start, the station-master
appears and rings ^"igorousl3' an ordinary dinner-bell, the whistle on
the p\-gm}- engine gives a little toot and the train starts. We had
just congratulated ourselves that we were to be alone, when
presto! three Spaniards entered, all smoking. Of course this
was to be expected, for in Spain men smoke everywhere, even in
the presence of ladies. We prepared to be miserable, and drew
nearer the windows, but to our surprise the}- permitted the weeds
to go out, and were assiduous in their efforts to make us com-
fortable, arranging the curtains and picking up our parcels. On
leaving at one of the way stations they raised their hats and said
courteously. "Adios, Senoras. "f
The country between Cadiz and Seville is beautiful. Just out
of Cadiz are great salt-pans, and near by are pyramids of salt ready
for market. The farms are enclosed by hedges of the century
plant and the earth seems rich and productive. There are wheat-
fields and olive orchards, vast vineyards, bare of leaves, — as it is
only March, — herds of cattle, sheep and goats. The mode of plow-
ing is primitive indeed. The plow itself is nothing more nor less
than the trunk of a small tree, with a sharp projecting limb still
attached to it, drawn by oxen.
The poverty of the peasants is great and is due principallv to
* The silver cup.
t Good-b3-e, ladies.
48
CADIZ
ij^norance, as a large percentage of the population of Spain can
neither read nor write. It is said that man}- of the peasants have on!)-
a little olive oil mixed with vinegar and water for their noondav
So much of interest occurred along the wav that we felt
meal
a pang of regret when the guard opened the door of the compart-
ment and shouted "Sevilla! "
CHAPTER \T
SEVILLE
-yHIS fine old citv, situated on the banks of the Guad-
al(|ui\ii", has hren "the outU't tor the wealtli of Spain
for centuries," and is a curious mixture of ancient and
modern architecture. It has ever been loyal to the
throne, and is the place where the treaty between
England, I" ranee and Spain was signed in i7:!9.
We are established at the /cv/.v/()// * of Mme. Bjork-
man. The}' charged us two dollars per dav at the hotel in Cadiz,
but here the terms are only one dollar and sixty cents, excrything
included. The breakfast begins at noon, and it one wants an\thing
before that time, he can onl\' have cofTtee or chocolate. The latter
is made quite thick, and eaten, not drunk, by the aid of a lady-
finger or a roll cut in strips. Contrary to our expectations, we enjoy
the Spanish dishes, especially the meats, which are sometimes served
in a gravy thick with pitted olives. There is a dessert cnWcd />(7s///c's
de cidra.-\ which is a shell made of puff-paste filled with a mixture
somewhat resembling mince meat flavored strongly with boiled cider.
Wine is served at each meal without extra charge, but one cannot
get water without asking for it, which we invariably do. Of course
the nati\'e wines of Southern Europe contain little alcohol, and are
more like the grape-juice which we use in America. Tlie water in
many places is impure, and physicians generally urge tourists to
drink the light wines. However, as we both prefer hot water to
cold, bv having it l)oiled, all danger is avoided.
It is always pleasant to have one's first view of a city from
some high point, so we repaired the morning after our arri\al to the
Giralda, whence the prospect is very extensive. The Guadalquivir
* Boarding house,
f Cider cakes.
49
50 SEVILLE
winding in and out, and the spires of the twentv-five churches rising
from the narrow streets of the cit\-, give a picturesqueness to the
panorama, which the surrounding hills, topped by small villages,
enhance. Some of them are walled, as they were in bygone days
when the Moors controlled Spain.
The Giralda is a bell tower dating from the 12th centur}-.
Its architecture is Moorish and of extreme elegance. An inclined
plane, that could be ascended easily by a man on horseback, leads
from the grountl floor of the interior to the top. The belfrv is
surrounded by the Latin text: — "Nomen Domini fortissima turris, "*
the whole surmounted by a figure of Faith, fourteen feet high.
The tower stands at the northeast corner of the cathedral,
which is the largest in Spain. This edifice, begun in 1403,
is in the Spanish pointed Gothic style. Its length is 413 ft.
and its width 298 ft. There are fine bronze doors, and about a
hundred stained glass windows.
In order to view the treasures of the cathedral, one must ob-
tain a permit trtJm the Sacristan and pay a fee of two pesetas;
then the visitor is conducted about the building. The rctahlo or
altar-piece, of enormous size, is divided into forty-four compartments,
each of which is carved or painted to represent a subject of Bible
history. The body of St. Ferdinand, which is displayed three times
yearly, lies underneath the high altar, but the heavil}- embossed gold
and silver coffin is placed in front of it. Through the thick glass
doors at one side of the altar we could see the lead coffins of Pedro
the Cruel and Maria de Padilla, with whom he contracted a mor-
ganatic marriage.
The famous picture by Murillo called the "Vision of St. An-
thony" is considered by some critics to be his finest work. It is
very large and is hung in the Baptistery f of the cathedral. On
the niglit of November 4th, 1874, the figure of St. Anthony, which
occupies the center of the canvas, was cut out and carried off.
The Spanish Government communicated the fact to its representa-
tives in other countries, who immediately instituted a search. The
picture was discovered in New York where it was offered to a Mr.
* The name of the Lord is a strong tower.
\ Chapel where the sacrament of baptism is administered.
52 SEV/LLF.
Schaus, iov fiftv pounds, by an unknown person. Afterwards it was
restored to its place in the canvas.
On Sunday we attended mass in the catheth-al. The tloors
arc of stone, and during the elevation of the Host, or consecrated
wafer, when every one is expected to show great devotion, I was
careful to kneel only on one knee, as I had taken a severe cold the
dav l)ef(n-c. Immediately, I felt a heavy hand upon m}' shoulder,
which forced me down on the other knee. Looking \\\), I met the
disappro\'ing gaze of one of the jiriests, who from the rear had
noticed mv seeming lack of respect. No talking or walking alxiut
is ]"iermitted during service in the Spanish churches, and the people
are to lie respected for this rule, which is often violated elsewhere.
There are no seats in the cathedral; consequently those who wish
to sit (luring a portion of the service bring folding chairs with them,
or rent stools from a woman who keejis a stock in the vestibule.
As it is the custom in Seville to promenade the streets in the
earlv evening, we took this opportunity to study the people. Alany
of tlie women are beautiful, but as it is the Lenten season there is
nuieh sameness in costume — nearly all are dressed in black, with
lace mantillas, and their onlv ornament is a bright flower in the hair.
The men are tall, with pale olive complexions, flashing black eyes,
heavy hair and mustaches. They wear capes fully six yards around,
gen(;rall\' lined with scarlet and draped about their shoulders in the
most artistic fashion; upon their heads are black sombreros.*
'J"o show how courteous the Spaniards arc; we asked one
gentleman the way to the postoffice, when instead of indicating the
direction b)' word or gesture, he made a sweeping bow and mo-
tioned to us to lollow him, walking eight blocks out of his way to
])ring us to tlie ]ilace, wliere, with another ]io]ite obeisance, he left us.
Most ol the dwellings have little iron lialconies, such as one
sees in the C'reole quarter in New Orleans, and the senoritas lean
over the twisted railings and chat with friends in the street below.
'i"wo buildings of great interest to strangers are tlie Alcazar or
Royal Palace of the Moors and the House of Pilate. The former,
excelled in beauty only by the Alhambra of Granada, occupies
''' Broad soft liat.
THE VISION OF ST. ANTHONY
54 SEVILLE
the site of the residence of the Roman Prsetor and was rebuilt in
Moorish sts'le in the loth and iith centuries. Here Hved Pedro
the Cruel with the beautiful Maria dc Padilla. Here he murdered
in cold blood his illegitimate brother, the Master of Santiago, whose
death was avenged six years later by his own brother, who stabbed
Pedro to the heart. Maria de Padilla, who ched shortly before her
husband's death, was buried with the queens in the Royal Chapel,
for Pedro had publicly acknowledged her as his lawful wife, arid
the church had sanctioned the marriage. i
A grand court is called Las Doncellas, * for here, from the
maidens who passed in review before him, the Moorish sovereign
chose his wives. The Hall of the Ambassadors is glorious with
mosaic floors, columns of marble and walls covered with stucco
carved in lace-like designs. In one corner the pavement is stained
with the blood of the murdered Master of Santiago. i
The House of Pilate, a reproduction of the one in Jerusalem,
was I)uilt in the 15th century by the first Marquis of Tarifa on his
return from Palestine. The walls of the Prsetoriumf are covered
half way up to the ceiling with splendid azulcjos.\ A certain table
was pointed out to us as an exact copy of the one on which were
counted the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas Iscariot.
We regretted that the cigar factory was closed for repairfe,
especially as tlu' opera of Carmen had stimulated our curiosit}' to
.see the place where the heroine earned her daily bread. Tobacco
is the principal export of Seville and 4, 500 hands are employed in
the royal factory alone. Olive oil is shipped yearly in large quan-
tities to foreign countries, also quicksilver from the Almaden mines.
A park, called Las Delicias, || extends along the river bank, where
the fashionable people drive and walk after the sun has set.
Elaborate {"(reparations are being made all over the cit}' for the
Easter festival. Holy week begins on Monday next, but the week
following, with its processions, bull-fights and theatrical perform-
ances will doubtless be all the yavc^r bv contrast.
*The maidens.
f The liall of the guards.
\ Iridescent tiles.
II The dehfrhts.
SEVILLE
55
One bright afternoon we went by carriage to visit the ruins of
Itiilica, a citv founded bv Scipio Africanus * in 210 B. C. We
passed over the old iron bridge that spans the Guadalquivir, con-
necting Se\ille and the gypsy quarter of Triana. It was Sunday,
and, as is the custom ol the lower classes aftt^r their morning of
devotion in the churches, the people were spending the afternoon
in pleasure. Everywhere were little groups of men and women
laughing and chatting, or having a social glass of wine with some
congenial neighbor. In front of a wine-shop was a pretty girl danc-
ing the fandango, the national dance, her feet keeping time to the
clapping of hands which was vigorously kept up by an admiring
throng that applauded her graceful movements. Gypsy wagons
crept along the smooth road. They had canvas tops and were
drawn h\ mules and donkevs hitched tandem, sometimes in a strinsf
of eight. Besides pulling the wagon, they bore panniers so heavy
that it seemed as if even their tough backs must break.
Of the former magnificence of Italica little remains, save the
ruins of the amphitheater.
This Roman Plaza de Toros still shows portions of the tiers
of seats, now so broken and moss-covered as to look scarcely two
inches wide. Long galleries around the base, underneath the seats,
were here and there divided off for different purposes. The old
custodian showed us the cages from which the lions rushed forth
into the arena, and a cell where Christians were confined previous
to their martyrdom. In the walls of this cell is a niche where
once stood the image of a heathen god which thev refused to wor-
ship. In the gladiators' apartment a round stone basin set in the
floor served as a lavatory. After the contests the corpses of men
and beasts were thrown into a deep well near by. The little vine-
clad house of the custodian nestles beside one of the great boulders
thrown up bv an earthquake in 1773.
We had a time with the beggars on the way back to Seville,
but at last escaped Ijy throwing them coppers, for which we left
them scrambling and fighting. Alas! they are the torments of this
beautiful country, to which the_y cling like parasites.
* Roman general.
CHAPTER VII
CORDOVA
^J/^kty ^ the way from Seville to Cordova we passed several
'yPj*ML "Castles in Spain." One occupied the top of a moun-
I^ffipPW tain to the steep sides of which oHve trees were
85a jP* cHnf^ing as sturdily as when, centuries ago, they yielded
y^y^ / their abundance to the retinue of El Gran Seiior.*
'^'i^^ Another stronghold half way up the side of a valley
frowned from tlie edge of a clifl a thousand feet high.
These grim old castles still guard the mountain passes, bidding de-
fiance to Time, the All-destroyer.
The Spaniards are a jn'oud race, and despite the fanaticism
that has done so much to destroy their art, despite the barrenness
of their land, for, excepting Andalusia, it is barren, with povertj^
actually staring them in the face, they live upon the memory of
their past greatness and are content so long as they have sufficient
food and the indispensable guitar.
Cordova, on the right bank of the Guadalquivi,-, is seventy-five
miles northeast of Seville. Its walls are Moorish, but erected on
Roman foundations. The principal //crsc? is called "El Gran Capi-
tan.'f A fine drive surrounds it and from this, in all tlirections,
radiate narrow winding streets.
The glorv of the city is the great mosque built bv Abdu-r-
rahman;}; I. It is said to be the largest in the world and ranks
third in sanctity. The exterior, with its heavy square towers, is
relieved by a beautiful courtyard, containing fine orange trees and
a fountain around which gather women carrying huge earthen water
jars on their hips. The interior is one of the most wonderful ex-
amples of Moorish architecture extant. One seems to be entering
* The great lord,
f The great captain.
J Moorish Sultan.
56
c8 COA'/)Oi:i
a city of ]iillars, for nearly a thousand monoliths* still remain of
the original twelve hundred. The variety of marbles composing the
columns is fairly bewildering. They are twelve feet in height, hewn
out of jasper, porphyry and other precious materials, and divide the
mosque into twenty-nine aisles one way and nineteen the other.
Upon them is supported a double tier of Moorish arches.
There is a heptagonal chapel on one side, with a roof composed
of a single block of white marble carved in the form of a shell. A
path has been worn in the stone floor by the feet of pilgrims, who
here fulfilled llieir vow and obtained the blessing usually granted at
Mecca. The exterior of this chapel is ornamented with rare mosaics
sent from Constantinople. They still glitter as freshly as if set
yesterday, and are considered by many artists to be the finest in
the world.
The Mak-surah, where the sultan prayed on b'ridays, was for-
merly paved with pure silver and decorated with gold and precious
stones.
Imagine this labyrinth lighted, as it was in the past, by 4, 700
perfumed lamps and you will have a faint idea of what must have
been the enchantment of the scene.
The Spaniards did their best to destroy the beauty of this
structure by raising the roof of the central portion and inserting a
high altar, choir and chapel. When Charles V. returned to Cordova
and saw this change he rebuked the authorities of the cathedral, say-
ing:— " Vou have built here what could have been erected as well any-
where else, and you have destroyed what was unique in the world. "
Leaving the mosque, we walked through a number of narrow
streets, until we came to a plaza where cadets were at drill. On
one side of the square was the old Royal Palace. One wing, sur-
mounted bv two serrated f towers, is used as a prison. Mere slits
in the wall serve as windows. Adjacent to this building, and
directly untler its stone towers, is a garden filled with date, palm,
orange and lemon trees, the latter loaded with fruit. Climbing
roses fill the air with their perfume, and sparkling waters gush
through an opening in one of the old stone walls into the baths
* K pillar cut from a single stone,
f Notched on the edge.
CORDOrA
59
below. These basins, whore oncv the favorites of kinj^s sported like
mermaids, are now filled with gold and silver fish.
Near b}- liows the river spanned by a Moorish bridge of great
length. The stone gate-way of the city makes a splendid back-
ground for the gaily dressed peasants who congregate there, their
donkeys' heads decked with red and )-ellow woolen balls and queer
little bells, while awaiting their turn at the gate, where packs are
examined and customs paid.
Across the river are some old mills, with open horseshoe
arches. Oh! if vou could hear the cathedral bells, as I did when
I stood on that bridge! They are so sweet, so solemn, that the
very memory of them makes me homesick!
We cannot help remarking the extreme youth of the soldiers
we meet in Spain. We are told that mere boys are being forced
into the army to take the places of the thousands of men who have
gone to Cuba to quell the insurrection. In spite of our disapproval
of the policy of the Spaniards regarding the government of Cuba,
we must admire their courage and determination to die fighting
rather than vield what thcv firm!}' believe to be their rights.
CFIAPTER VIII
GRANADA
N leaving Cordova for Granada, we travelled directly
south toward Bobadilla, the first half of the distance,
passing villages and towns still showing traces of Moor-
ish architecture. Montilla, a [iretty place, is completely
enclosed b}' its ancient wall. The surrounding country
shows great fertilitv. Further on, at the foot of a steep
hill crowned bv an ancient Moorish tower, is the little town
of Aguilar. In Spanish doi/ila means eagle, so my fancy leads me
to connect the two words and call this tower ' 'The Eagle's Nest. "
It was probably the home of the valiant knight, Alonso de Aguilar,
the friend of Ponce de Leon, with whose search tor the fountain
of eternal vouth we are all familiar.
We changed cars at Bobadilla and entered one contain-
ing an American family of three. They were in fine attire and
evidcntlv thought we were quite beneath their notice, for their man-
ners were so "snippv. " However, we survived. Those of our
counlrvmen whom we have happened to meet have, as a rule, been
uncompanionable; either they are extremel}' reserved, or they are
nonvcaux riches* On the contrary, we have found foreigners
most delightful.
Arrixing m Granada at nightfall, we took a carriage, after mak-
ing a bargain with the driver, and started in the direction of Uie
Alhambra. Passing through the city, in and out of narrow streets,
where the; wheels almost grazed the houses on either side, uji and
up we went, until, entering a ston(> gatewav, we found oursehes
within the Alh;iml)ra gardens. A (hi\e winding in serpentine
fashion led us to the top of the hill. In the gardens are great elms,
-said to have been planted by the Duke of Wellington. Here in
* Pltsoiis who have recently acquired weahh.
60
GRANADA
Cn
the summer the nightingales sing their sweetest. Throughout the
dense groves gas lamps, placed at intervals, in the distance gleam
like giant fireflies. As we reached the summit, we came out
upon a small pla.-ja and beiore us loomed that ugly pik; of yellow
masonr\', the pal-
ace ol Charles V.,
w h i c h entirely
conceals the Al-
hambra.
Turning uji a
short street we
stopped in front
ot a barred tloor,
upon which our
coachman rapjied
with the handle
of his whip. A
withered old wom-
a n o p c> n e d t h e
wicket, and, when
I addressed her
in French, an-
swered in a per-
fect voile}- of
Spanish, then ran
half way across
the street and
called some one
byname. Out of
the darkness came a young man, who doffed his cap and in fair
French asked our errand. We informed him that we had wrillcn
to engage accommodations at this house, whereupon he at once
ushered us in, at the same time expressing regret that our letter
had not been received.
Soon we were established in a comfortable room containing
two snowy beds and were refreshed with some tea, eggs and rolls.
A Chicago artist had recommended this house; that of a private
ROAD TO ALHAMBRA
62
GRANADA
family ' 'wot takes lodgers, " and we were delighted to be the strangers
within their gates.
A SCRAP FROM MV NOTEBOOK.
I am writing on the edge of the parapet overlooking the great
Gate of Justice, where the Moorish sovereigns or their representa-
tives dispensed judgment. Over the horseshoe arch is graven a
GATE OF JUSTICE, ALHAMBRA
hand uplifted; over the inner arch, a key. The Moors used to say
that only when the hand grasped the key could the Alhambra be
taken. Above the arch is the inscription written by its founder,
Yusuf: — "May the Almighty make this a bulwark of protection,
and inscribe its erection among the imperishable actions of the
just."
A winding vaulted passage leads up through this gate to the
Place of the Cisterns. As I look down, I can see people coming up,
dwarfed b)- the distance, wliich is so great that the tops of the
tall cypresses, growing on the slopes beside the roadway, are on a
level with the parapet. There are village folk toiling along under
their loads of provisions, ajiparentlv just returning from market,
while some gypsies are singing and dancing in order to attract our
attention; ihcir gay costumes making bright splashes of color on
GRAXADA
63
the landscape. At my left, away across La Vega,* rises the lofty
range of the Sierra Nevadas, the snow-capped peaks outlined against
the bluest of skies. All over the plain, in the distance, are little
white towns and at the foot of the Alhambra hill lies Granada,
its red tiled roofs covering whitewashed walls.
Across the glen to my right is the Generalife, tlu" sunimc-r
villa of the Moorish sovereigns. The area occupied by the fort-
ress and palace of the Alhambra is about thirty-five acres, in-
closed by a strong wall, broken by towers. The fortress was
sometimes garrisoned by forty thousand men in the time of the
Moors.
Now, I am down in the roadway in front of the Gate of
Justice. Above, swav the interlacing elms. A prett\- little gypsy
girl, who has been posing for an artist near by, has left him and
is dancing for us. Her hair is flying, her eyes sparkling, and, as
she curves her arms and points her little toes, she would do credit
to Carmencitaf herself.
Desbitt, an artist from the Edinburgh Academy of Fine Arts,
was this morning painting a scene in the little street where we are
staying, and we stood some minutes watching him work. This is
surely the paradise of artists, for here are the rich colors and the
quaint effects they all seek.
Under the guidance of our host, Senor Carmona, we have visited
the Alhambra, the Generalife and other points of interest in Gra-
nada. How can I picture to you the glories of the Alhambra? a
spot both familiar and dear to us through the tales of \\';ishingt<>n
Irving. But you will wish to know my impressions, so I will
describe the palace briefly, and may the shades of the Sultans for-
give my presumption!
Passing around the Renaissance palace of Charles V., we found
ourselves before an iron door opening into a low, unpretentious
building. It was the Alhambra, the celebrated palace of the Moorish
kings. The exterior was built in this simple style in order to avert
the Evil Eye, which the Moors believe threatens the prosperous.
*The plain.
f Celebrated Spanish dancer.
64 GRANADA
But, "Open Sesame!" the door flew back at the touch of our guide's
stick and we were in fairykmd.
Above us was the blue vauk of lieaven; below, and before us a
mirror of water, surrounded by a low hedge of myrtles and filled
with Ix'autiful fish; about us were graceful columns supporting arches,
the spaces above perforated by carvings in stucco and the walls cov-
ered by the same material in geometrical and floral designs. Court
succeeds court in this Elysium, all difi^erent, 3'et all in perfect har-
mon\-. Martlets flit about among the arches and vaulted roofs, and
are held sacred, as they are said to be the birds that plucked tlie
thorns from the crown of our Sa\'iour when he hung ujion the cross.
All over the building is written Ijy the finger of the sculptor
the same Mohammedan war cry that we heard in Morocco: — "Wa
ha ghaliba ilia Allah!" — "There is no Conqueror but God. ' Tliis
famous sentence was uttered by the Sultan Ibn-1-ahmar in answer
to the greeting of his subjects, who saluted him as "Conqueror"
when he returned victorious from battle.
P'rom this Court of the Myrtles we jiassed to the Hall of the
Ambassadors. Its magnificent inlaid ceiling, seventy-five feet in
height, is of dark carveti wood, once adorned with brilliant colors,
now faded. This room, which was the grand reception hall and
contained the throne of the Sultan, occupies all of the Tower
of Comares. Here Columbus received from Isabella the jewels
which made possible his voyage of discovery. Outside, moss and
ivy cling to the thick walls, the trailing vines swaying softlv in the
perfumed air.
The largest court is the famous Court of the Lions. The fi)un-
tain in the center has a basin supported by the figures of twelve
marble lions. Four channels in the mar])le pavement connect this
fountain with smaller ones in adjoining apartments. One hundred
and t\vent}-eight pillars of Macael * marble, once of dazzling white-
ness, now an ivory tint, form a colonnade around this court. As
we stood within it one evening, while the moonlight flooded the
fountain and streamed through the filigree arches, bringing out in
strong relief the shadows cast by the pillars upon the pavement, it
* A marble quarry in Spain.
Ch'.LYADA
65
seemed like a dream-palace that at the shghtest touch miL;ht
vanisli forever from our sii^ht.
The Hall of the Abencerrages * is so called because it is
the one in which the Sultan Boabdil beheaded thirty-three chiefs
of that clan whom he had invited to a banquet. The blood stains
are still visible near the fountain in tlie center.
Ojiposite this hall is that of the Two Sisters, named from twin
COURT OF THE LIONS, ALHAMBRA
marble slabs, without flaw, which are let into the pavement. From
the honey-combed ceiling hang stalactites of stucco, strengthened
within bv hollow reeds and delicatelv tinted. Here, as in other
* Name of a clan.
66
GRANADA
rooms, the Arabic word for felicity appears on the stucco medalhons
wliich embelHsh the walls. A charming loggia opens from the Hall
of the Two Sisters. Its ceiling is inlaid with bits of sparkling
glass. Four windows
overlook a beautiful gar-
den of orange and med-
lar trees.
The Alhambra Vase,
probably the most noted
in the world, is a splendid
specimen of Moorish ce-
ramic art of the 14th cen-
tury. The proportions of
this ornament are most
harmonious, and enough
of the blue and gold dec-
oration is still visible to
enable one to guess at its
beauty when fresh from
the potter's hands.
Descending the mar-
ble stairs from the Court
of the Myrtles and trav-
ersing several corridors
we reached the Hall of
Repose, with a raised dais
on two sides, used as a
resting-place after the
bath. The primary colors, blue, red and vcUow, are seen in the
upper decorations, the secondary ones, purple, green and orange, in
the aziilcjo dadoes. A succession of bath-rooms open out of the
Hall of Repose. The ceiling of the vapor bath is pierced with
star-shajH'd o]ienings which admit air and light. The waters of
the rix'cr Darro supplied the fountains and baths.
l'"rom one of the courts we could see, in an upper story, rooms
opening on a balcony which is entirely inclosed by stout iron bars.
THE ALHAMBRA VASE
GR.LVJDA Gj
Here poor, crazy Joanna, daunhtrr of Ferdinand and Lsabella, spent
man\- a weary day.
Lines from tlie Koran, tlie Mohammedan Bible, decorate the
side walls of the Mezciuita, or Little Mosque, within the Alhambra,
and the Mihrab or lIol\- of Holies, where the sacred book was
kept, is a marvel of beauty. 1 wonder whether the dead return,
and, if they do, if it was all a \ision, when, leaning against the
marble casement, I seemed to see the majestic figure of a Sultan
kneeling on the mosaic Hoor, with silken robes floating about him,
cruel, bigoted, despotic, as most of the leaders of the time were, yet
still a sovereign in pride, dignity and dauntless courage.
The dissensions of the Moors finally led to the downfall of
Granada, the last of their strongholds to yield to the Christians.
The legend runs that Muley Aben Hassan, Sultan of Granada,
falling in love with a Christian maiden, Isabella de Solis, set aside
his Sultana, Ayesha, and, confining her and her son Boabdil in
the Tower of Comares, wedded the Christian girl, whom the Moors
called Zoraya, the "Star of the ^lorning. " The Abencerrages ar-
rayed themselves on the side of Zoraya and the Zegris, another
clan, on that of Ayesha. One night, by the help of her ladies,
A3-esha let down her son from the tower window, whence he escaped
under the protection of the Zegris.
In 14S2, Boabdil dethroned his father, and was thereafter known
as El Rey Chico, ' 'The Younger King, " to distinguish him from a
usurping uncle; but his vengeful nature overreached his judgment,
and inviting a number of the Abencerrages to a feast, under a pre-
tense of peace, he had them beheaded, as I have already mentioned.
The rest were warned and escaped to Ferdinand and Isabella, wIkj
were encamped over against Granada. Ayesha girded on the sword
of her son, which she hoped would repel all invaders. The young
Sultana Morayma wept when her lord, setting out to battle, broke
his lance against the gateway, for it was a bad omen . Granada
fell on January 2d, 1492, when Boabdil, presenting the keys to the
Catholic sovereigns, Ferdinand and Isabella, left the place forever,
as some say by the Gate of the Seven Stories. Isabella, in ac-
cordance with his last request, afterward caused this gate to be
walled up.
68
GK.-iNADA
As we stood in front of the old iron frame, its lock undisturbed,
and the masonry showing through the bars, we felt a throb of pit\'
for the man who had to give up so much, a sympathy that changed
to indio-nation when we viewed the sepulcher of the murdered Aben-
cerrages. But people of the 19th century, who have been taught
him
TOWERS OF THE PRINCESSES AND THE CAPTIVE
the laws of heredity, cannot wonder at the misfortunes and mis-
deeds of the son of such a monster as Mule)- Aben Hassan.
From the summit of the Alpuxarras, a range of mountains
overlooking Granada, Boabdil gazed for the last time upon his
former possessions. The spot has ever since been called "'EI
jiltimo snspiro del Mora.'''
The Tower of the Princesses and that of the Captive are the
most interesting of the Alhambra. The latter has been thus desig-
nati'd ever since a Christian maiden, of whom one of the Moorish
so\'ereigns had become enamored, was imprisoned there. Finding
* The last sigh of the Moor.
GRANADA 69
that she must choose between de;ith and dishonor, she flung herself
to the valle)- below, where her mangled remains were found by the
Christian knight to whom she had been betrothed. This is not
fiction, but Spanish history, which abounds in romance.
We reached the Generaliit-, the summer palace of the Sultans,
by crossing a deep ravine and following a long path shaded by
enormous cypresses. Flowering shrubs fill the spaces between the
trees and form a hedge about six feet high.
Arbors of cypresses, composed of eight or ten trees planted in
a circle, their interlacing tops making a roof and their side branches
trimmed in patterns, form complete specimens of Moorish archi-
tecture.
The Palace itself rises in tiers upon the terraced hillside.
Colonnades connect the suites of rooms and open on one side upon
a court of orange trees; while the waters of the Darro are conducted
through a channel in the center; beyond, is an outer garden. Marble
benches are placed against the stone parapet of this garden — which
bears upon its broad top pots of roses and pansies-- and the pave-
ment is laid in mosaic patterns. Nowhere in Granada is this pecul-
iar pavement better illustrated than in front of tlie Mezquita, where
the architect, Yusuf, was assassinated while at prayer.
As we strolled through the halls, sleeping rooms and courts of
the Generalife, we felt as if the whole place were filled with
the presence of those who had once lived within its walls. Glancing
into the alcove of a chamber, we seemed to see, reclining on em-
broidered cushions, a radiant creature, gossamer draperies half
concealing, half disclosing, her perfect form, while an ebon-hued
slave waved a fan of peacock feathers lazily to and fro.
The portraits of sixteen Moors in full armor hang in a long
gallery. These, doubtless, are the men who embraced the Chris-
tian faith directly before or after the conquest of Granada, for the
Mohammedans did not at that time permit any representation of
human life.
As we came out, what a sight greeted us! Successive flights
of stone steps lead up the mountain side, each flight ending on a
terrace where a marble fountain sends up a flashing stream. The
steps are flanked by thick stone walls about four feet high with
70
GRANADA
(grooved tops. Adown these grooves rush swift streams of water
into deep basins at the foot. The slopes are covered with ferns
and tall trees, whose waving branches meet over the steps, forming a
perfect canopy of green. The effect is enchanting, and as we stood
gazing, I was taken back to my childhood's days, when I lay
?;•:•«
~«.'-
THE MEZQUITA, GRANADA
stretched on the grass with the "Arabian Nights" open before me
and found in its pages just such a garden, just such a palace of
beauty.
From the Torre de la Vela* a bell begins ringing at 8:30 p. m.,
to announce to the farmers that they may turn aside the waters
of the river to irrigate their meadows. The bell is rung by two
Watch tower.
GRANADA 71
women, who pull the rope by turns every fifteen minutes until
about four in the morning. The Darro rushes down from the moun-
tains and is carried by canals and fountains all throuj^h the city,
down the sides of the streets and paths into the gardens; every-
where branches of this beneficent stream are seen. The Genii
meets it in the lower part of the cit}-, and there the women gather
on the banks to wash their linen.
One e\-ening, when we were preparing to write our home letters,
Senor Carmona, in his picturesque broad-brimmed hat and black
cape, knocked at our door and asked us if we did not want to go
to the top of the Torre de la Vela, hear the bell and see Granada
by moonlight. Donning our hats and wraps, we sped away to the
tower. A loud knock on the heavy iron door summoned one of the
keepers, who carried in her hand a quaint little brass lamp fed
with olive oil, such as is commonh' used in Andalusia. We groped
our wa^' up the stairs by this dim light and came out on the roof
and beneath the old bell.
An iron cross marks the spot where the Christian flag was first
planted.
Behind us was the long range of the Sierra Nevadas, their
snowy mantles silvered with the light of a full mo(jn. Below, in
the citv, each roof was as clearlv defined, each narrow street as
light, as if the sun shone down upon it, instead of Luna. Soon
the bell of a distant church pealed forth. Senor Carmona put his
finger to his lips; then, deep and sweet came the tones of the old
cathedral bell and then, boom! boom! the great iron tongue above
us swung back and forth, filling the air with a perfect ecstasy of
sound. It is said that the maiden, who rings this bell on the second
day of January, will be married before the year is out, so, naturally,
there is a great rush for the bell on that particular day. Then
came the walk back under the trees, with the moonlight casting
shadows of the great elms across the roadway.
Seiior Carmona is a goldsmith and a descendant of a famous
family of goldsmiths who have lived for several hundred years on
the hill of the Alhambra. As he had spent so much time with us,
we were beginning to feel anxious about the price of his services,
for we had had several experiences with guides; so, at table last
72 GRANADA
night I asked him his charges per day. He straightened himself
up in a grandiose way and said that he was not a professional
guide, but a Spanish gentleman, and always took care of his guests.
I, therefore, begged his pardon, and thanked him for his kind atten-
tions as warmly as my poor Spanish would permit.
After dinner he asked us if we did not want to go into the
kitchen, and we very gladly accepted the invitation to see that
part of tills quaint old house. The walls were whitewashed —
everything is, here, Init the people. An old-fashioned stove, some-
thing like a range, was placed upon a block of stone. A heap of
charcoal indicated the kind of fuel. Upon the walls hung brass
kettles and copper wai'e, each piece polished till it shone like a
mirror. A great earthen jar, shaped like the Greek wine jars we
saw at the World's Fair, stood in one corner, and the tables and
stone floor were as white as sand and soap could make them.
The wife of our host, the withered old woman who met us on
our arrival, seems years the senior of her portl}' husl)and and quite
his inferior intellectually. The women of Spain mature early and
their beauty fades with great rapidity after they reach the age of
thirty. They are domestic and know nothing about advanced ideas,
and yet they seem to be content. I do not believe Senora Car-
mona knows the meaning t)f "woman's rights," in the common
acceptance of the term. She seems as fond of her husband as he
of her, and, so far as I can observe, has pretty much her own way,
without apparent friction. While we were her guests she certainly
held the purse-strings.
There is a slio]) on the Alhambra hill where small models of
the exciuisitely carved doors of the palace are made. Mrs. M.
could not resist their attractiveness and purchased one, but, as it
was too large and fragile to carry about with her, she was obliged
to send it 1)\- ireiglit to Chicago. We both tried to make the shop-
keeper understand that she wanted a bill of lading, but to no avail.
So she must simply have faith in the Spanish way of doing busi-
ness, as she has nothing to show for the article except the ordinary
receipted bill.
This afternoon we took a carriage and with our guide drove
all about the city, going hrst to the Chapel of the Kings, which
GR.t.y.lDA
73
adjoins the cathedral. Upon marble tombs arc the recHning effi-
gies of Ferdinand and Isabella and those of Joanna and her husband,
Philip of Burgundy. The Sacristan was persuaded to 1< t us go
down into the vault benealli, where tlu' roval eollins are. There
they were! Those of the sovereigns in the center, the others to
THE ROYAL TOMBS
the right. The outer coverings were of lead, the inner ones, which
contain the caskets, of iron. It seemed like desecration when the
Sacristan rapped on the covers to show how solid and strong they
were. Ever burning candles are placed around them. Joanna
carried her husband's coffin about with her for forty-seven }'ears,
watching it constantly.
A row of bas-reliefs in the chapel tells the stor}- of the Con-
quest. In one of them, Isabella is portrayed riding ujion a white
palfrey, accompanied by Ferdinand, Cardinal Mendoza and courtiers.
74
GRANADA
Boabdil advances to meet them, the keys of Granada in his hand,
whik' numbers of unhappy-looking Moors follow him.
In the sacristy is a large cabinet, which, for a consideration,
the Sacristan opened. There was the crown which Isabella wore,
a simple gold one, without setting of any kind; the very golden
casket from which she took her jewels to give to Columbus; her
scepter; Ferdinand's sword, and Cardinal Mendoza's crimson robe.
Before we left, a party of tourists tried to bribe the Sacristan
to take them down into the vault, Ijut he refused. Seiior Carmona
informed us that, since he was well known, we were admitted as
a special favor, and he added proudlv, "Yo soy EspaTio/."* He
afterward said that the cathedral authorities would not admit ordi-
nary tourists into the vault for fear of their molesting the remains.
We are told that European countries have suffered much from
the vandalism of relic-hunters, and therefore we do not wonder at
such vigilance.
The cathedral and manv of the buildings here are enriched
with native marbles from the Sierra Nevadas. One kind, of a flame
color, shading to a delicate pink, is especially beautiful.
At the Carthusian conventf our carriage was so beset by beg-
gars that it seemed at first as if we would be unable to alight;
however, by loosening our purse-strings, we managed to struggle
through the crowd of watery-eyed old men and wliining women and
gain the entrance.
A priest led us into a corridor hung with very badly painted
pictures of saints undergoing martyrdom, the sight of which is
enough to curdle one's blood. There are saints stretched on grid-
irons, wasting over slow fires, and saints being carefully dismembered,
while their persecutors look on with apparent enjoyment. To my
mind, the only excuse for tolerating such pictures is their antiquity.
On the wall of the refectory a cross is painted so cleverly that
it deceives the observer into thinking that it is of wood. The
priest affirmed that birds had been seen to fly through the open
windows and try to light upon it.
The doors and clothes-presses of the sacristy are gorgeously
* " I am a Spaniard."
t Suppressed in 1836.
GRANADA
75
"■'.'%
^^"m
1 -?
s'^.^-^tm^^
s^;.
inlaid with tortoise shell, mother of pearl and ivory, thou<;h decid-
edly inartistic. The most precious treasure of the convent is a
statuette of St. Bruno by Alonso Cano, a Spanish sculptor. In the
face, suffering is depicted with great skill.
As we dro\-e from the convent to the gypsy quarter, my hair
• stood t)n end, for the
B side of the hill was
so steep that brakes
had to be used to
keep the carriage from
slipping back. The
gypsies burrow like
animals in the moun-
tain side. The only
a i r o r light comes
from the open door.
We entered one of
their caves and spent
a delightful halt hour.
The fi r s t, o r m a i n
room, is moderately
high, with arched
openings into other
rooms, the ceilings
and side walls being
whitewashed and the
floors of brick; every-
thing spotless. A niche in the wall forms a shrine, holding an image
of the Virgin.
A young man, in corduroy breeches, round jacket, silk shirt and
wide scarlet sash, played on a guitar, while several girls took turns
in dancing and singing. The dance consisted of graceful steps and
posing, chiefly with the arms, together with movements of the
' ' muscle dance. "
On our return we drove along an old road running beside the
river Darro, which is spanned by Moorish bridges, some of them
fallen into decay. The houses on the opposite side rise abruptlv
i
w
GYPSY CAVES AT GRANADA
76
GRANADA
from the river bed, forming a sheer wall thirty or forty feet high;
their balconies are filled with flowering plants and their weather-
beaten sides are almost hidden by green moss. In one of the
small parks is a bronze statue of Isabella I., with Columbus kneel-
ing before her and showing her a map.
The moonlight is streaming through our windows; we can hear
the swift flow of the river and the splash of one of its tiny tribu-
taries as it pours through the stone wall of the court below. My
thoughts dwell upon Washington Irving; upon the many happy
months he spent in the Alhambra, upon his legacy to the world.
Tomorrow the iron horse will bear us away from wondrous
Granada, where art and architecture have reached such perfection;
where the air blows fresh from the mountain peaks, and crj'stal
waters flow from their recesses; where hearts are warm and friendly
toward the stranger; where courtesy and contentment abide.
CHAPTER IX
NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
iW nSSt/ /^^ '^'^^ glicli'T.^' throuiih a sea of molten glass, broken
\lw '^4^' jil^ here and there with green-clad islands of unutterable
^...\i.,, ^%\ beauty. Before us rises a range of volcanic hills,
the background of the most populous city in Italy,
the inimitable abode of the art-loving, song-loving,
light-hearted Neapolitans. The great golden disk of
■*?»# ^' -^ ^'^'~' •'''■^" ^^ rising from behind Mt. Vesuvius and tinge-
si^ ing the column of smoke pouring out of its crater
''^•'' with varying shades of red and yellow. The shore
bends in two crescents, divided by a ridge running from the jirom-
ontory of Pizzofalcone to the heights where St. Elmo, once a teudal
castle, built by the Spaniards in 1535, still stands. The curving
bay is dotted with odd fishing smacks, their bright-colored sails set
to catch the morning breeze. A rowboat filled with musicians draws
close to the steamer. They are singing a gay lilting song accom-
panied by an accordion, their upturned faces beaming with pleasure
as we toss down some coppers in reward for their welcome.
But }-ou will be interested in our passage across the Mediter-
ranean. After a Sunday of rest we bade farewell to English posses-
sions on Spanish shores, taking the steamer Fulda en route for
Naples. The Fulda is much smaller than the Kaiser, and inferior in
every respect, but the weather has been fine and the moonrise superb.
Prince Bismarck reached his eighty-first birthday while we were
on board and we celebrated accordingly. The dining-room at bugle
call was a pretty sight. Flags of all nations were displayed every-
where, the German, of course, predominating. On every table
was an elaborate centerpiece made of macaroons decorated with
little flags and on the top a candy statuette of Germania. The
bill of fare was elaborate, and after the word "dessert" we read
"transparent ice cream." When it was time to serve this course,
77
78
NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
the waiters suddenly left the dining-room; then out went the electric
lights and we were left in total darkness. Presently the band struck
up the air, "Fiirst Bismarck," and the file of waiters entered, headed
by one bearing aloft the German flag. Every man carried in his
right hand a slender pole with a Chinese lantern of an odd shape.
MOUNT VESUVIUS AND THE BAY OF NAPLES
and on the left arm a platter with a hollow block of ice, like a
miniature ice palace, inclosing a colored light, yellow, pink, or blue.
The effect was fairy-like and the company was delighted.
On the second day after leaving Gibraltar, we sailed along the
bare and monotonous coast of Sardinia, which seemed deserted; save
for a lighthouse here and there, not a sign of human life was seen.
' ' ] 'cdi Napoli c poi uiori !" — ' 'See Naples and then die !" — so goes
the old saying. We have been in the city several days and,
NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
79
though enchanted with the spot, we are by no means ready to
expire. Perhaps our hick of courage is due to the fact tliat we are
frozen sohd, so to speak. The icy wind from the Apennines is
sweeping across the land, and no matter how much clothing we
wear, we still shiver. Nevertheless, it is a comfort to be able to
walk without being obliged to incline our bodies to an aiij^lc of forty-
five degrees in order to
keep the center of grav-
ity where it belongs.
A gentleman, who
was evidently attracted
by the vivacity of my
companion while on the
Fulda, assisted us to
land here, and, owing to
his knowledge of the
language, had our bag-
gage passed through the
custom-house without
the least annoyance to
us, a piece of good for-
tune which the others
did not share. He then
put us into a cab, beat
the driver down to the
regular fare, which is
quite the thing to do,
and sent us off rejoicing.
After securing a double room, without board, for six lire per day at
the Hotel Britannique, we started for a bank, where we made the
acquaintance of the Italian lira, a coin equal to about nineteen cents
in our money. Later, we drove to the Toledo, the main street,
and, dismissing the carriage, walked to the Museum.
In order to see with our eyes what we had read of in books,
we turned off several times from the thoroughfare into the queer
httle lanes which cross it. They are lined with shops of all kinds
and descriptions, while bright-colored awnings stretch from side
PRINCE BISMARCK
8o NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
to side. The oranf^e and lemon corners show the Iruit with stems
and leaves attached. Vegetable stalls, with open hampers spilling
out quantities of small red peppers, succulent tomatoes, cucumbers
and fat green beans, interlaced with bunches of young onions, car-
rots and parsley, are arranged with such an eye to harmony of
color as to make one hungry to look at them. There are Lillipu-
tian bakeries hung with great strings of twisted rolls and banked
with loaves of bread and parti-colored cakes. This wealth of gofid
things is generally presided over by some plump and jolly little
woman, her rough hair, guiltless of a comb, knotted carelessly, l)ut
artistically, in a big coil at the back of her head, and strings of ga}'
beads decorating her ample bosom. Hawkers with long sticks of
sealing wax accost the pedestrian with: — "Un soldo, Signora!"* and
Punchinellos fastened to rubber cords l)ob up and down, drawing
coppers from the pockets of the urchins.
One day we saw a flock of lambs being driven down the street,
their backs and heads decorated, for the Easter festival, with daubs
of red paint, b'urther on was a wagon filled with these little crea-
tures, tied by the four legs and hanging head downward from pegs
around the edge of the cart; their feeble bleats were piteous as the
owner jerked them from a nail to displa\' their plumpness to the
prospective buyer. How I did want to throw something at that
cruel peasant! I thought of the late Mrs. B., of Hyde Park, and
how she would have made things •■hum" if she could have been
there.
If \-ou pass a wig-maker's shop, you will find him right in the
window plying his trade, a cheap way of advertising. An infinite-
variety of curious scen<'s constantly greets the eye. Women bring
their washing to the street jiump and, placing tulis and boards
directly under the spouts, .scrub away, while their next-door neigh-
boi-, leaning against it, rept-ats the latest tidbits of gossip. Lin(\s
of clothes are strung from doorway to doorway, a remarkable exhi-
Ijition ot legs and sleeves.
We spent a profitable afternoon examining the priceless works
of art contained in that treasure-house of Italian antiquities, the
^' Only a piniu , hulv !
NAPLES AMI rUE MED I TERRANEAN gi
National Museum. Tlic bronzes and mural decorations rccoven^d
from the once buried cities of Pompeii and Herculaneuni are to be
seen here, their colors in llie most marvellous state of j)reservatioii.
Two masterpieces of Grec-k art attract the attention at onc-.e. The\'
belonged to the noble Farnese family, and are designated as the
Farnese Hercules,* and the Farnese Bull. The latter is world-
renowned and deserves especial mention.
It is a group illustrating the Greek legend of Dirce, who was
changed into a fountain at Thebes. She was the wife of Lycus,
the king of Thebes. Antiope, the niece of Lycus, was carried off
by the king of Sicyon, who, later, was forced to yield her up. On
her wa}' to Thebes, Antiope ga\e Ijirth to twin sons, who were left
with a herdsman on the mountains to be reared. Dirce became
jealous of Antiope, who was very beautiful, and concealed the
whereabouts of her children until the}- had grown to manhood.
Persecuted by Dirce, Antiope escaped to the mountains. There
she was sheltered, unkniiwing]\', Ijv her sons, who were living in a
hut. Dirce, following, discovered her hiding-place and ordered the
two youths to tie her to the horns of a wild bull to be dragged to
death. The Queen's command was about to be obeyed, when the
old herdsman entered, recognized Antiope and revealed her identitv
to her sons. They were so enraged that they intficted upon Dirce
the doom intended for their mother, and she was dragged over the
mountains, finally being changed into a fountain. From these waters
Hercules is said to have obtained his great strength. The group
of marble shows the two sons struggling to hold a bull while they
fasten to its horns one end of the rope which is attached to the
coils of Dirce's hair. Antiope, the personification of Justice, stands
beside them. The modelling of the sturdy youths is excellent.
I wish you could have seen us, Frida}' night, writing at our
little table with two ' ' pinching bugs, " as Mrs. M. dubs our candles,
in front of us. Our faces were sunburned to the exact hue of
the scarlet tablecloth, by a day at Pompeii. Instead of going, as
is usual, by train, we drove, in order to see the life of the suburbs.
Breakfast, taken in our room, consisted of a cup of tea, rolls and
* The god of strength.
6
82 NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
an orange. The rolls were a special Easter delicacy; they had an
eoo- in the shell baked in their coils and were so hot with pepper
as to burn our tongues at every mouthful. After visiting the baker
and the grocer, where we bought enough provisions for a lunch, we
tucked ourselves up in the carriage robes and prepared to enjoy
the drive.
The cabman was evidently proud of us, for, in a loud voice he
informed several of his friends that he was going to drive the two
"Americanc"* to Pompeii, and nearly knocked down and drove
over evervthing on the streets, as he lashed the sturdy little nag to
a still faster trot. The route took us through a section where the
poor of Naples live and along a country road which passes through
out-lying villages.
If you have ever read Italian stories by Ouida, or "Romola"
by George Eliot, you will remember descriptions of just such street
scenes as we witnessed. Time seems to have wrought no changes,
and the people work and trade as in bygone days; the same merry,
careless, happy-go-lucky creatures as then.
One sees men and boys pushing barrows, on which are placed
boards containing loaves of bread dough, on their way to the bake-
house. Old women sit on the corners, with heaps of chestnuts, or
melon seeds, a national confection, in front of them, or display
squares of painted canvas, sugar lambs and colored eggs, for Easter
week. All along the streets, on boxes or planks, are stacks of bread
for sale, exposed to the dust, regardless of microbes. Tubs con-
taining dozens of little brown wicker baskets filled with soft creamy
cheese stand out in front of the meat markets; and everywhere, on
donkeys, in windows and on the sidewalks, is garlic, that detestable
article ot food the odor of which the tourist never escapes, from
the time of leaving the Narrows.
The men of Naples are generally swarthy, with black hair;
but brown hair and eyes seem to predominate among the women;
though they are so tanned that, at first, they seem like brunettes.
Among the better classes, the hair is worn in pompadour style, but
among the lower, simply brushed back, if it is brushed at all. Peas-
* American ladies.
NAPr.F.S AND THE AfE DfTF. R k'ANF.AN 83
ant women wear no head-coverine;. As a wliole, tlic jicople of the
poorer classes are not as i^ood-looking or as cleanly as in Spain,
though we find fewer begtr^^i"-'^-
Everybody seems busy, from the boys, whose clotliinj^ scarcely
covers their bodies, "atherincf the manure from the streets into
INTERIOR OF THE MUSEUM AT POMPE
baskets with their bare hands, to the wrinkled old hag behind her
stall of artichokes and onions. The children, half naked, live upon
the sidewalks and follow all their inclinations in happy unconscious-
ness of the proprieties. The street cars run on one side of the
street and, in some cases, inside the curb, next to the walk.
Every mile or two, after leaving the city, we saw a plaster image
or a painting of the Saviour or the \'irgin within a kind of frame,
generally with a glass front, elevated on a pole beside the road.
84
NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
Pompeii, from the exterior, appears like a great reservoir; all
that one ean see is a high embankment covered with grass. En-
tering a gateway, we ascended a winding path which led to the
museum, which contains casts of the skeletons of human beings,
horses and dogs, petrified food, household utensils and wine jars.
Nearly all the wall paintings of any merit are now in the museum
at Naples.
While excavating the ruins, the workmen often came upon
human bodies, which, however, crumbled into dust, the moment they
FRESCO IN THE "NEW HOUSE," POMPEII
were exposed to the air. So the novel idea was hit upon of filling
several cavities, tluis formed, with soft plaster of Paris, pouring it
through a small opening. This was done and it was left to harden.
Later, the shell was carefully knocked oft' and it was found that
the plaster had assumed the shape of the body, inclosing the bones.
One of these casts represents a young woman, who had fallen on
her face, which was hidden in her bent arm.
When we left the museum, we followed the road up the hill
for about an eighth of a mile, coming out upon a street leading into
the heart of this once buried city.
Its ancient streets are very narrow, and the ruts worn in the
.v.i/'/./-:.s .i.\7) ■/■///■: .\//:/)/7v-A'A'.i.v/:.i.v 85
stones hv the lu'av\- whci'ls of chariots arc in some cases lour inches
deep. Great llat stepjiin^-stones he in the rt)ad\vav, lar enouL^h
a]Kirt for wheels to pass l)et\veen tliem.
Some of the mosaic floors are still ]ireser\c'(l, as are marble
til>les, basins of fountains and brolvcn ]iieces of statuary; while
the i'X(]uisiti' irescoes, especialK' those ot the ruin termed the "New
House, " and the stucco reliefs ot tlu' ]Hiblic baths, are sources of
nev(-r-endin<^ delight.
Of the places of .imusement, the smaller or Tragic Theater,
which dates from j^ B. C, is in the best condition. It seated 1500
persons.
Near the dwelling; of Sallust, the noted historian, is a public
bakehouse, with extensive ovens and mills for <i;rindin<^' corn.
A fuller's estal)lishinent contained lour tubs tor fullinj; the
clotli wliich was afterward hun<:,f from a gallery to dry.
It would be impossible to describe in a limited space the
temples, Basilica * and Forniu^, of which enough remains to give
the visitor a fair idea of their former dignity.
In our enthusiasm, we people the empty streets and voiceless
dwellings from the pages of Bulwer Lj-tton's "Last Days of
Pompeii." Again there are sounds of revelry about the hospitable
board of Glaucus, the Athenian, and Nydia pauses beside a foun-
tain, the lashes of her sightless eyes lying dark against the pallor
ot her cheek.
On the following Saturday, we were entertained while at dinner
in the Birrcria Gaiiidrinus, a fine restaurant in the cit}', by the
airs of a handsome young officer of the King's Guards. He was
attired in pearl gray pantaloons, Ijlack coat with velvet collar and
cutis braided with silver, cavalry boots with spurs, heavy sword,
black cap and gray military cloak. He evidently recognized that we
were foreigners and thought he would show his importance. Find-
ing fault with each dish of the several courses he had ordered, he
kept the two waiters racing from table to kitchen in order to find
something with which to tempt his appetite. After each outburst
* The law court of the ancients.
t A market place, generall)' surrounded by public building's and where
orations were delivered to the people.
86 NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
he would slyly glance in our direction, but if he caught us looking
at him, immediately his large black eyes would stare over our
heads as if oblivious of our existence. This specimen of the "gilded
youth" of Naples may have been a prince, for all we know, as they
are all military men.
After dinner we attended the opera of Lucia di Lajiniicnuoor,
at the Tcatro San Carlo, where many of the Italian operas were
performed for the first time. It is said to have the largest seating
capacity of any theater in Europe, though La Scala * at Milan
boasts a stage of greater dimensions. The San Carlo was founded
by Charles III. in 1737. There are six tiers of boxes, thirty-
two boxes in each tier, running around three sides of the
interior. The seats we occupied cost seventy cents in our mone}-,
and we paid two cents for the program, for which a separate
charge is always made. There are no galleries. The orchestra,
of seventy pieces, was exceedingly good and the ballet which fol-
lowed the opera, amusing. There were about two hundred in the
cast of the ballet. They tried to represent the development of
the American woman, bloomers and all, and, of course, greatly
exaggerated it.
On Easter Sunday we attended service at the church of San
Francesco di Paola. It has an immense dome, which is supported
by thirty Corinthian columns of marble. The high altar, inlaid
with jaspiT and lapis lazuli, is flanked b\' two pillars sujiporting
candelabra. The pillars are of Egyptian breccia, a very rare sub-
stance, composed of angular fragments of minerals cemented
together, thus presenting a variety of colors. All the people sat
in rush-l)()ttomed chairs placed directly under the dome. The
responses of the male choir to the chanting of the priests were
fine, but they were accompanied by a wheezy old organ that
threatened to bolt at every pressure of the pedal.
The archbishop, who was very imposing in his magnificent
white silk robes and miter, celebrated the mass. Once, he walked
with a jn'ocession of priests around the church, siirinkling holv water
* Named after Beatrice Scala who founded the church which formerly occu-
])ii-il the site.
NAPLES AND THE MEDl TERRANEAN
87
upon the kneeling tliroiii;- with ;i brusli whieh he freciuentl}' (h'jipcd
in a silver vessel, s\vun>;- to and fro by an aculyte.
Before relating our experiences on the trip to Vesuvius, which
occupied a day, I will quote substantially Baedeker's excellent de-
scription of the volcano: — "The height varies, according to the
different effects of the eruptions, from 3,900 to 4,300 feet. * * *
The northeast side of the mountain is called l\It. Somma, of which
^
TRAGIC THEATER
the highest peak is 3,642 feet. The Atrio del Cavallo, a deep
sickle-shaped valley, separates Somma from Vesuvius proper, which
consists of a cone of ashes with the crater in the center, the T^'orge
of\'ulcan.'" At present there are two craters, the central one and
the new one.
Down to the year 1500, nine eruptions are recorded, and
since then, fifty. The most recent period of great activity began
in January, 1S71, with the emissions of small streams of lava, and
culminated in the great eruption, April 24th to 30th, 1872. This
time, the lava burst forth on every side, and with such suddenness
on April 26th as to o\ertake and destroy twent}' spectators,
while others were injured by stones thrown from the summit. The
88 NAPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
torrent descended to IVIassa and San Sebastiano, which it partly
destroyed, and ran to a distance of three miles in twelve hours.
At the same time, amidst terrific thundering', the crater poured
forth hu^e volumes of smoke mingled with red-hot stones and lava
to a height of 4,000 ft., whilst clouds of ashes, rising to double
that height, were carried by the wind in one direction one hundred
and forty miles. The lava emitted during this eruption covers an
area of two square miles and averages thirteen feet in depth. The
damage was estimated at 3,000,000 /re?;/ r.? ($600,000).
' ' The cause of these phenomena is still, to some extent, a
matter of conjecture. It is highly probal)Ie that they are intimately
connected with the water of the sea, near which all the j^rincipal
volcanoes arc situated. There is reason to believe that the enor-
mous clouds of steam generated during the eruptions are due to
some temporary communication of the water with the burning
liquids of the interior of the earth, and that the premonitory earth-
quakes are occasioned by the vapors and gases as they expand
and endeavor to find an outlet."
The red-hot fluids expelled from the volcano are called lava,
the stones, scoricc, and the minute portions, ashes. If the sides of
the cone are strong enough to resist the lava, it flows out from
the top of the crater, otherwise, through the sides. When freed
from the pressure of the lava, the vapors rise to a height of 10,000
ft., resembling a pine in form, carrying dense masses of ashes
along with them; they are then condensed in the air, and in descend-
ing give rise to those formidable streams of mud which proved
so disastrous to Herculaneum. The appearance of fire at night in
the smoky column is not flame, but the reflection of the molten
lava inside the crater on the rising clouds of vapor.
Imagine us on the second seat of Cook and Co. s four-horse
coach, on our way to Vesuvius. The back scat was occupied by
a Russian doctor and his wife; the front, by the driver, together with
a big, burly, black-bearded German, and a Parisian swell. Quite a
mixture, was it not?
Portici is the first town after leaving Naples, of which it seems
a continuation. We crossed the court of the palace built there
by Charles 111., in 173S, in the old park connected with it.
NAPLES Axn iiii-: .]//■/>/'/■/■: Kh'.i.v/':. I. V 89
Resina, the next lown, is liuilt on the l;i\a beds that cover
ancient Ilereulaneiini. There some httle bows, ramjj;t'tl, but happw
ran beside the carriage, two of tlieni ]ila\ini; on sticks, fiddle fashion.
One of the sticks was notched and had a nail in it with some (hsks
of tin sIiuil; on the nail. These prinntixa' instiannents accompanied
ver\- prettiK' the musical xoict'S ol the rest (A the little troop. I
oftered the leader a lew coi)pers lor his hddh' and he went oil with
them as gay as a lark. A girl was lowering a basket fiom a tlmtl
story l^alcony to receive some vegetaljles for which she was bar-
gaining in shrill tones with a street vender below. Women were
putting the finishing touches to their morning toilets, on the walks
in front of their doorsteps, combing one another's hair, and also
removing the inhabitants therefrom, a common sight here. Now and
then the open gate of some aristocrat's villa would re\eal glimpses
of lovely gardens within, lillcd with fountains, statuary and tlowers.
.After an hour's drive we reached a road bordered on the left
with a wall made of blocks of lava and inclosing vine\ards and
orchards of olive and almond trees; the latter in blossom and very
pretty indeed; but, oh! the view! as we made the steep ascent.
The men of our party walked up the steepest inclines to lighten
the load for the horses, who were straining every muscle.
Away to the north lie the Apennines, from whose frozen heights
a cold wind swept, and penetrated to our very bones; while to the
south, in joyous contrast,
"Calm Capri waits,
Her sapphire gates
Beguiling to her bright estates."
The bay of Naples glittered as if set with myriads of precious stones,
while village after village appeared, as the landscape lengthened.
About us were acres of lava. We imagined that we could see
faces, animals and shells in the fantastic formations of this hardened
flood.
A short stop was made to rest the horses at a (jueer litde
hostelry, where wine, including the celebrated Lacriuuc Christie*
* Xears of Christ.
90 NAPLES AND THE MED I TF.R KANEAN
was for sale, but only those of the sterner sex indulged. Leaving the
carriage at the Meteorological Observatory, situated 2,218 ft. above
the level of the sea, we mounted mules and found guides in readi-
ness to conduct us across the new lava to the wire-rope railway,
which ascends nearly to the summit of the crater.
The beast that was selected to bear your humble servant had
an obstinate disposition and ears that must have been a quarter of
a yard long. He persisted in wandering from the straight and
narrow path laid out by the company, and once, came so near
slipping into a pit of red-hot lava that I gave a squeal, when my
guide immediately proceeded to put his arms around me, fearing
I was about to faint. Therefore, I concluded, that of two evils I
would choose the lesser and keep quiet in the future. How I did
envy Mrs. M., who cantered along as easily as if riding in a park,
now and then casting a merry glance over her shoulder to see how
I was getting along.
After an appetizing dinner at the railway station, we entered
the car which was to draw us up the sheer side of the main crater,
a distance of 900 yds. The upper end of the railway is 1,300 ft.
higher than the lower.
As we rose higher and higher, the peaks below us flattened
out, the clouds drew nearer, and Naples became a mere blotch
of white on the gra}' of the earth. At the top station were the
mountain guides, with stout leathern straps over their shoulders.
We took hold of the loop at one end and began the climb toward
the crater. The path in some places was so steep that a second
man had to go behind and, placing his palms against our shoulders,
push with all his strength, while we ploughed through the soft
snow mingled with ashes nearly knee deep. Once, we passed
a crevasse, with yawning edges, composed of clear sulphur. Vol-
umes of smoke poured out of it with such intensity that the whole
party took to their heels, and, if we had not held wet handkerchiefs
over our mouths and nostrils, we should ha\-e been overcome by
the fumes.
At last, the very edge was reached and, kneeling there, we
looked over and down, down, down, into the seemingly bottomless
pit. Every now and then an explosion would take place and new
^p^^^'^^^E ^
IBk w8^ ''i^D^^''Pi'\
H^w
AiH
^^^^^^^Br^ ' ""^B^^Ibeel^S^bH^H^^^^ Vk
^^^^^BLwg^^ j^mRw ^n^^^^^%
I^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^E ' ^BSScA^Bt ^ ~ '^^^^^^^Ki^^^^^r V
E3^^^K
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l^nLSPr^^ "^v^^^^^Bn
Ffl^^^v
Wm
^4
1
m
^■^H' . . iilHu^
f-^.H
92
y.lPLES AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
vohiincs of steam and smoke would pour out. After this liad
cleared awav we could see the blackened rock at the bottom of the
crater.
Then came another lon<^' tram)) to the new crater on the side
of the Atrio del Cavallo. As one jieers over its edge, instead of
a rocky cavern, a surging lake of molten lava is seen.
We reached our carriage after the descent, completely worn
out, but amply repaid for our fatigue bv the grandest sight which
we had ever witnessed.
The Italian word for street is via or strada ; the principal
thoroughfare is sometimes called the Corso and the squares, of
which there are nxA^y, piazzc, the plural of piazza; Spanish, //^ ::(?,•
German, platz; French, place.
The cab horses here are so decked out in metal-trimmed har-
ness, rosettes, ribbons, feathers and the like, that we feel as if we
formed jiart of a triumphal procession, every time we drive out.
( )ne afternoon we engaged a cabriolet with what my companion
calls a "silver-plated pony" and joined the line of swell turn-outs in
the Villa Nazionale, the fashionalile park of Naples, which lies
close to the water's edge. The display of handsome costumes was
very interesting, though the features of the wearers were, for the
most part, plain; however, the "military" were superb and fully
compensated for the lack of beauty in the women.
The population of Naples, the largest city in Italy, is over
500,000 besides the garrison.
The shops are stocked with coral, cameo and tortoise shell
ornaments, while the lava from Vesuvius is carved into the most
exquisite shapes.
\V(; thought we had seen curious fish at the World's Fair, but
those in the Naples Aquarium are far more w^onderful. The col-
lection, which occupies a number of rooms and is contained in tanks
with glass fronts, is drawn entirely from the Mediterranean. It
includes both large and small sjiecimens of the finny tribe, corals,
seaweeds and mosses. There were four octopi or devil fish, and,
as the keej-xT is susceptible to a fee, we persuaded him to feed
tliem, that we might see their maneuvers. Accordingh', he ])l<iced
an enormous live spider on the end of a long reed, and going to
NAPLES; A XL) TlfE MKDITERRAM'IAN
93
the second story, wIk-iv tluM-c arc o]icnin<^.s down into tlic tanks,
held the spider on tup ot llic \\al<r. linmediateK , llir lionililc
creatures bes^an to swim frt>ni tlic IxiltDin, where tlu\ had lain
curled up. Tluir ul;1v tiaitaeles unfolded, tluir e\-es bul^'ed out,
and, in the excitenu'Ut ot the ii,i;ht winch ensued over tlu' e.aptui-e
ot the choice morsel, red hunches ot what lookt'd like entrails prt;-
truded from their sides. These monsters are a common article of
diet anioni; the Neapolitans.
There were fish which resembled opalescent l;I,-iss, some lik'c
little red ju^s, while others were so exactly the color of ihe sand
in the bottom of the tank that we distin^uislu'd them with chili-
cult}'. Ocean lettuce ot hlmv ^^reen waved back and forth, and
sea lilies opened their daintv petals, as perfect as if grown in tlu'
sunshine.
CHAPTER X
FROM CAPRI TO BRINDISI
■^^^i^,^ -vHE Bay of Naples was never more cnchantins:; than
— -'•fc)\ wlien we embarked for Capri. Behind us la\- the varied
Jk T"^!^ landscape, before us the iridescent waters, reflecting a
^•^ L^ } cloudless sk)-, while the coast to the southward was
broken into curves b}- the harbors of the fishing towns.
-^ V Past Castellamare, Vico Equense and Sorrento we
' • steamed and, in less than three hours, dropped anchor
at Capri, "Bluest of the Isles." Her turreted rocks and smiling
vales are girdled by a sea so intense in color that it seems as if
some one had emptied into it tons of indigo. The ancient villas of
Augustus and Tiberius, and the mediaeval castle of Barbarossa are
scarcely to be distinguished from the crags on which the}' were
built, so completelv have they fallen into decay.
The town of Capri lies between the two highest points of the
island, Lo Capo and Mt. Solaro. A winding road, hewn in the
rock and as smooth as a marble floor, leads up to the white dwell-
ings of Anacapri on a small plateau, 420 ft. above. Steps cut in
the side of the cliffs were formerly the only means of access to
the upper village.
Upon arriving at the principal landing-place, we found that the
porters from the different hotels were women, who shouldered the
baggage of the passengers, even large trunks, with the ease of
strong men. The feminine portion of the communit\- does much
of the heavy work, including the coaling of vessels. The physique
of these women is magnificent.
Most of the streets are mere paths, which are ver\' steep, and
often ascend in steps. They are about wide enough to allow three
people to walk abreast, and run between hi,s:^h walls, inclosing
vineyards and groves of lemon and orange trees. Rills ot water
94
/•ROM CAPRI TO BRIXD/SI
95
trickle down the sides of tlic stops, refreshing:;' the patclies ot moss
in their crevices.
Starry-eyed girls, tall and supple as willows, add a charming
bit of life to the ]iicture. Tlie prettiest creature, with a can of
milk poised upon her head, stopped and stared at us as we sat
MARINA GRANDE AT CAPRI
resting on a low stone wall. She examined every detail of our
dress, with evident enjoyment. How I longed to take her back to
America with me! But the beauty of this rose of the rocks would
doubtless be lost if transplanted to a foreign soil. Nearly all the
women wear long, silver hairpins, ornamented with a hand grasp-
ing a lilv.
We were up at five o'clock this morning to see the sunrise,
and found that Apollo had already sent couriers to announce his
coming. Aurora's flaming banners of orange and scarlet could be
seen through the purple haze, just lifting from the pale gray sea.
Some coral fishers, putting out from the quay, left a trail of silver
in the wake of their boat.
g6 FROM CAPRI TO BRIXDISI
Before breakfast we strolled into a lemon grove connected with
the hotel. The branches of the trees are twisted like grape vines,
and as they reach the roof of the arbor, upon which they are
trained, they sjiread out like umbrellas, the yellow fruit dangling
beneath, within reach of the hand. Near b}' is an old house. On
the doorsteps sat a young girl roasting coffee over a charcoal fire,
shaking the green berries in a sheet-iron cylinder. It is needless
to say that the cofifee was badly scorched. Perhaps this method
of ]ireparing it accounts for the disagreeable taste of Italian colTee,
which we are unable to drink.
The town of Capri centers in a small piazza, surrounded by
the public buildings, church, shops and artists' studios. We en-
joxed a visit to one of the latter, that of Carlo di Giuseppe, a
native of the island, and one of its best artists. He has some
charming pictures of the coast, as well as portraits of American
girls. His work shows great talent. My companion secured a view
of the Marina Grande* and a study of a Venetian girl, which are
to be forwarded to I^ondon to await our arrival.
On the drive up to Anacapri, we saw a hollow in the clifif
about fifteen feet above our heads. It was a shrine, containing a
life-size image of the Virgin, before which was suspended a lantern.
Beside the figure hung a wooden leg. We learned afterward that
it was an offering from a person who had Ijcen injured near the
spot. It seemed such a long, hard climb to the ruins of the Castle
of Barbarossa, that we concluded to take our driver's advice and
view its beauties from the outside. It was named after the Turkish
corsair who destroyed it, a red-bearded [barba rossa) pirate of the
15th century. The most beautiful wild flowers cover the mountains,
of which there are nearly eight hundred species.
Of course every one who goes to this ' ' botanists' paradise " visits
the Blue Grotto, the most w<,Midcrtul of the numerous caverns on
the coast. The best light can be obtained about noon. Accord-
ingly, before that time, we set out in a small boat rowed by two
stalwart islanders, and in three-quarters of an hour had reached
the entrance. As the waves recede from the rocks one can see
* Main landing or quay.
FROM CAPRI TO HRIXDISI 1^7
branches of red coral clinging to them like moss. The entrance
to the Grotto is verv low, scarcely three feet in height, and as we
approached it, the men re(]ueste(l us to lie down in the bottom
of the boat, to axoid being struck l)\ the overhanging rocks. Wc
obeyed, and with a powerful stroke of the oars, a whoop and a
duck of the head, we were pushed through the opening.
The interior is a vaulted chamber, fortv-one feet Ingli, seventv-
CASTLE OF BARBAROSSA, CAPRI
five feet long and one hundred ieet wide, in the broadest ]iart.
The effect of the blue refraction of the light on walls and boats
and the intensitv of this color in the wat(>r is indescribable. The
opening through w-hich we entered the Grotto is only the top of
a tremendous arch. The rays of the sun are, therefore, transmitted
from beneath, colored b}- the water and reflected upon the walls
and roof of the cavern. The water within is so clear that Hsh
can be seen on the sandy bottom. A flat rock, connected at one
time with a passage under the mountain, is used as a "jumping-off
place" by a small boy. He swims about, to show tourists the
7
gS FROM CAPRI TO BRIXDIST
silvery appearance assumed by all objects in the water. The sur-
face of the sea near the Grotto is covered with star and jelly fish,
while delicate seaweeds, mosses and waving anemones are found in
great varieties in the depths below.
Women selling coral haunt the quays and hotels. A bunch
of tt'u strings costs onlv a /m?. There are about 4, 700 inhabitants
on the island, emploved chiefly in fishing and in cultivating fruit
and the vine.
In crossing from Capri to Sorrento, it seems as if one were
going to explore a town of cliff-dwellers, the white houses built on
the summit of the rocks are so secure from intrusion. Narrow
gorges form natural pathways from the sea, inland. The supersti-
tious people believe that the ravines are inhabited by a race of
dwarfs. We landed at the foot of the cliffs, and instead of taking
the cable tramwav, climbed the stone steps to the town al)ove;
now and then pausing to catch views of the beautiful island we
had just left. A tiny sail close to its shores again suggested lines
from T. Buchanan Read's poem: —
" M\' winged boat.
A bird afloat.
Swims round the purple peaks remote: — "
After selecting a delightful room at t)ne of the hotels, shaded
by purple wistaria in full bloom, we walked in company with two
Boston girls over to the Piazza, where there is a marble statue of
Torquato Tasso, the celebrated poet, who was born at Sorrento in
1544. Wood mosaics, the manufacture of which has become an art
in this town, fill the shop windows. From the road, little can be seen
of the dwellings and luxuriant gardens, as high walls inclose them.
The beautiful villa of F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, is situated
on a bluff overlooking the sea.
In the e\ening, at Hotel \'ictoria, we witnessed the tarantella,
the national dance, whicli became a mania at one time, but is now
merelv an amusement. It originated at Tarentum, where the venom-
ous tarantula spider is found. The bite of this insect is said to
cause madness, and music and dancing are believed to be the only
antidotes to the poison.
FRO.\r CAPRI TO PR/XDfS;/
99
There were about Hftv spectators in the balh-ooin wlien the
company of dancers entered; twelve young men and twelve girls,
typical southern Italians, firm of flesh and ruddy of skin. There
are a number of figures in the dance, which is as lively as a quad-
rille, though the posing of the dancers calls to mind the minuet.
The men wear red vehet knee breeches, white shirts, green velvet
vests, silk sashes with long ends, tasselled caps, colored silk hose and
SORRENTO
low slippers; the girls, light silk skirts and bodices, short bolero
jackets, sashes, aprons, fancy stockings and low shoes. During the
dance the long sashes were wound and unwound about the swa}ing
figures, producing a very pretty effect.
Sorrento is a favorite winter resort for English and Americans,
and, as it is never very hot in summer, is frequented at that sea-
son by Italians.
The next morning we took a carriage, shared by the young
ladies whom I have mentioned, and drove to Salerno. The.se girls
are travelling through Italy alone, though the eldest is not over
100 FROM CAPRI TO BRIXDIST
twenty years old. They tell us that they have had no trouble
whatever, and feel as safe as if in their native town, which cer-
tainly speaks volumes for the chivalry of Italian men.
Every bend in the coast from Sorrento to Salerno presents a
new picture. We rolled along the smooth road cut in the side of
the mountain, above the sea, in and out, through tunnels and quaint
villages. In many houses there are openings similar to port holes,
left, we were told, in the plastered walls by the removal of the
scaffolding. Air thus penetrates the wof)dwork, preventing dry rot.
Near one of the towns were some little girls spinning b)- the way-
side. They do not use a wheel, but work with a distaff" and
spindle carried in the hand. A mountain torrent dashes down a
ravine at Arienzo, while towering cliiTs jut out, in some places form-
ing canopies over the hard, white drive. The mountains all along
the coast are terraced and covered with lemon and olive trees, or
fields of grain. Numerous watch-towers point to a barbarous age
when pirates infested the seas. The people of this region are,
many of them, ver}' poor. Some l)urro\v in the sides of the moun-
tains, as do the gypsies in Spain.
It was high noon before we had our first view of Amalfi, once
an important seaport town, which became an independent state
under the presidency of a doge. In the 12th centurv, the sea began
to undermine the town, and, after a terrible inundation in the 14th
century, its imjxirtance declined, the population dwindling from 50,-
000 to 7,000.
The principal point ot interest in Amalti is the old monastery
(now a hotel) which came into the possession of the Capucliins in
1583. It stands in the hollow of a cliff rising from the sea to a
height of 230 ft. A large grotto beside it was used as a sort of
Calvary, and still contains three wooden crosses. To the arms of
the central one are fastened the cup, the nails and the sponge,
tokens of Christ's suffering. The rooms of the monastery open
upon fine cloisters connected with a chapel.
The remains of St. Andrew are said to rest in the cathedral
of that name; but we were unable to go there, on account of a
storm, which gathered while we were at dinner. Lookiny' out of
the window we could see fishermen taking in the nets spread out
/•A'O.i/ CAriii 7'0 nh'/xn/sf
lOI
upon the l)i_;uli ti)(lr\-. The waves dashed a,2;ainst the rocks heiieath
us, bri'akiiii; into clouds oi' foam, while the murmur ot the sea
changed to a low growl, gi\ing t-vidence of the increasing wrath of
old Neptune. After waiting an hour in the vain hope that the
weather would clear, wc engaged another vehicle and jnished on.
A cold north wind accompanied the blinding raiii, and 1)_\' the time
we came in sight of Salerno, there were little "nicks" even in the
t;'mper of mv companion, who is proverbially angelic; while I w"is
2 fsi'\
positively vixenish. However, a cup of strong hot tea revived our
flagging spirits, and when we boarded the train for Brindisi, on the
following morning, wc had forgotten past discomforts.
In crossing the Apennine range, the panorama changes con-
stantly. It seemed as if we were scarcely out of one tunnel and
had caught a glimpse of a fertile valley where peasant women in
short skirts, scarlet bodices and Hat white headdresses, were working,
when we were again plunged into darkness. Then we would come
out upon a marshy plain planted with eucalyptus trees and \ine-
yards surrounded bv cactus hedges.
It was nearly dark to-night when the train pulled into Brindisi,
the western terminus of several lines of steamers which jily between
I02
FROM CAPRI TO BR/XD/SI
Italy and the East. Brindisi is the Roman Brundisium, meaning
stag's head, as its harbor is formed hke a pair of antlers. It was a
celebrated port even in ancient times, and terminated the Appian
Way leading from Rome. Virgil died here in 19 B. C. Here,
too, the Crusaders often assembled to embark for the Holy Land.
The steamer Ganges of the Peninsular and Oriental line has
just arrived from Port Said, and we have visited her cabins and
decks which are luxuriously fitted up.
We are now at the Grand Hotel, awaiting the arrival of the
Austrian Lloyd steamship which is to bear us across the Adriatic
to the classic shores of Greece.
CIIAPTEK XI
THE IONIAN ISLES
Ip^-T^HE mornint; after we left Brindisi was Ijris^lit and sunny,
the sea calm and the jiasscn^ers on the Aehille, eom-
panionable. We formed the accjuaintance of a deli,t;ht-
ful family, consisting of Professor A., oceujiying the
chair of Greek at Colgate University, his wife and sister
who were on their way to Athens. About eleven o'clock
the outlines of Alt. San Salvatore, on the island ot Corfu,
became visible, and at noon we drojiped anchor in the strait.
The Corinthians established a colon\- at Corfu in 734 Ix C. ,
but, in 22Q B. C, the island came into the possession of the
Romans. When the Byzantine* Empire was divided in 1205, the
\'enetians received Corfu; subsequentlw the French and the English
claimed it, but in 1863 it was ceded bv England to the Greeks.
The town of Corfu is now the capital of a province including the
islands of Corfu, Paxos, Antipaxcs and Leucas. Corfu is the only
island of this pro\ince that has a perennial stream, the river Ales-
songi.
Upon landing, the Professor engaged carriages for our party,
which two gentlemen from Chicago had joined. As usual, we drove
at once to the bank, where we exchanged our English gold for
drachmes, f " shinplasters, " worth, at present, about twelve cents
in our money. The ten drachme bank note is cut in two and each
half is worth five. The two pieces probably never meet again. The
coppers, a hundred of which equal a drachme, are called lepta.
Crossing the square from the bank, we entered the old church
of St. Spiridion, a saint greatly revered bv the Greeks. He was
once Bishop of Cyprus, and was persecuted by Diocletian. His
?i6-i205 A. D. ; seat, Byzantium, now Constantinople.
f Greek currency.
103
I04 THE IONIAN ISLES
body was brought to Corfu in 1489, where it reposes in a silver
coffin surrounded by hghted candles, near the high altar of this
church. Three times a year, the coffin is borne through the streets
with great solemnity.
As we stood before it admiring the embossed silver and ex-
quisite paintings on porcelain which adorn the lid, a peasant woman
entered, who, crossing herself three times, knelt on the steps of
the platform; then, rising, pressed her lips to each picture in
turn. Her hair brought over a large cushion projecting over the
left ear, was wound around her head and draped with a thin
white veil.
The decorations of the Greek Catholic churches are much
simpler and richer than those of the Roman. No "graven images"
are permitted; consequently, the absence of statuary or rehefs is
marked.
I'^rom St. Spiridion, we drove through narrow streets to the
Esplanade, where the Royal Palace is situated.
Thence, a fine drive, bordered on one side by gnarled olive trees,
led us to the summer villa of the King and Queen of Greece, where
we walked through splendid gardens filled with tropical foliage.
There were aloes, magnolias, palms and papyri, as well as flowers
and statuary. A custodian conducted us through the principal rooms
of the palace, furnished with the utmost simplicity, though every-
thing is of the finest quality.
After plucking a few sprigs of the periwinkle that grows in
abundance along the paths, we went on to the Canone, or one-gun
battery, at the end of the drive, which commands a view of the
east coast. Opposite to the entrance of the old Hyllaean harbor,
now unused, lies the isle of Ponticonisi, on which is a small chapel.
Tradition describes it as the Pha^acian* ship that bore Odysseus f to
Ithaca, and which was afterward changed into stone by Poseidon,
the god of the sea. On the shore, near the brook Cressida, is the
place where, according to Homer, the Princess Nausicaa first saw
Odysseus. The story runs thus: —
When the hero was wrecked near the island of the Phseacians,
* A mythical people,
f Ulysses.
THE IONIAN ISLES
105
FORTIFICATIONS AT CORFU
he swam ashore, and, being exhausted and naked, made a bed of
leaves in a thicket where he fell into a sound sleep. The Princess
Nausicaa, with her maidens, came to the brook to wash the linen
of the palace and, while it was drying on the beach, engaged in
a game of ball. In the midst of their sport, the ball flew into
the water. A merry laugh, half a scream, awoke the sleeper, who,
covering himself with a leafv bough, rushed in the direction of the
sound. At the sight of him the handmaidens fled, but the I'rinress,
true to her royal blood, stood her ground. Odysseus saluted her in
these words: — "Is it a goddess or a mortal that I see before me?"
The Princess conducted the wanderer to the city, where he was
properly clothed, and, later, received bv the King, to whom he
related his adventures. Subsequently, King Alcinous sent Odysseus
to Ithaca in one of his own ships, which, on the return voyage,
Poseidon turned into stone.
Before reembarking we drank Turkish coffee in front of a
cafe on the quay, tasted sweet lemons which were insipid and
bought some specimens of carved wood from the peasants.
io6
THE IONIAN ISLES
From Corfu we steamed past a number of small islands, nearly
all of them inhabited, and in about three hours reached the island
of Paxos, said to produce the best oil in western Greece.
A k'ljfend runs that at the moment when the Saviour's soul
ISLAND OF PONTICONISI, OFF CORFU
left liis body, a group of sailors on this island heard a great cry,
"Pan is dead." Pan was the god of Nature, so, Christ's cruci-
fixion, which was followed by the spread of Christianity, meant a
deathblow to Paganism.
Near Actium, at the entrance to the Ambracian Gulf, was fought
the famous naval battle between Mark Anton}' and Octavius in
3 1 F). C. The defeat of Antonv was followed bv his flight with
Cleopatra, his royal mistress, and their tragic death.
THE I OX I AN ISLES
107
The soutlurn iioiiU of Leucas is known as Sappho's Leap,
whence the Greek poetess, overcome by unretiuited love, is said to
have thrown luMself into the sea. After passin;,' this point, we came
in si,<;ht of Ithara, ihv island of Odysseus.
At one of tin- smaller islands a number ot liorricblookint; Turks
came aboard, and, \\\\v\\ I saw their evil faces, 1 could believe ail
the stories of the Armenian atrocities. They slept on the deck,
without extra covering-, except what Mother Earth had suppiic^l.
Not even the thrillin'^ lines of Byron's Childe Harold, which the
Professor read to us, could o\ercome my repulsion.
m-
CHAPTER XII
FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS
E were rudely awakened at four o'clock in the morning
I)}- the rolling of the chain when we cast anchor at
Patras, and we had ravenous appetites by the time
breakfast was ready at the hotel. The train left for
Athens about eight o'clock, and that hour found us
comfortably ensconced in an open, second class com-
partment. The Professor proved a friend indeed,
alternately teaching us Greek sentences, which he
thought we might find useful, and explaining points of
interest on the way. A Greek friend of his, a physician, had joined
us at Patras, and made the most of this opportunity to speak English
with Mrs. M. As his vocabulary was limited, there was a halt now
and then in the conversation; whereupon, the Professor would
translate a Greek word, thus enabling Doctor C. to finish his re-
marks, and causing no little merriment.
Our route lay along the coast of the Gulf of Corinth. At
Aegium, the first important station, we saw adobe houses and fences,
the top of the latter covered with grass and mud, making an over-
hanging ridge which protected the clay bricks from the rain. In
the vineyards on this coast of the Peloponnesus,* grow the small
grapes which we call currants and use in cakes and mince meat.
They are dried by the sun, in the white fields around the numer-
ous villages. The waters of the gulf show three shades of blue, —
close to the shore a pale azure, and then, a sapphire deepening to
a perfect peacock blue, near the opposite shore. You cannot con-
ceive of the wondrous depth and beauty of this coloring. It far
surpasses even that of the Bay of Naples.
The Corinth of to-day (4,100 inhabitants) contains little to
* Island of Pelops.
108
FRO.]f r.lTRAS TO ATHENE
109
interest the traveller, unless it may be the delieious niarmaladc and
little cakes which are a s})ecialt\' at the station. Old Corinth, three
and a half miles to the southwest, could be seen plainly from the
train, as well as Acro-Corinth, the citadel which towers above it.
Until the Persian wars it was a famous city, almost unrivalled as
a center of trade, and celebrated tor the manufacture of jnu'iilc
dye and woolen stuffs. In 46 B. C the Romans founded a ci\'il
ACRO-CORINTH
colony on the site of the town that had been razed to the ground
by their ancestors, and it immediately became prosperous. This
was the Corinth where St. Paul preached and to which he directed
his Epistles, — a wealthy commercial cit}', where luxury and immo-
rality held full sway. Later, Corinth fell into the hands of the
Turks, but finally was restored to the Greeks. The summit of the
rock called Acro-Corinth is 1,886 ft. above the level of the sea.
There, are the remains of mediaeval fortifications, a Turkish oratory
and the ruins of a temple of Aphrodite.* The view, which em-
* Venus.
no
FROM PATH AS TO ATHENS
braces the mountainous districts on both sides of the gulf, is superb.
On the east side of the height is a clear spring, which, according
to an ancient legend, gushed forth at a stroke of the hoof of the
winged horse, Pegasus.
How my heart leaped when, a little later, I gazed for the first
time upon Mt. Parnassus, sacred to the Oracle of Delphi.* It
looked like some sleeping creature, in the bend of whose neck lay
Delphi, but, alas! on the opposite side from us.
Delphi was once the principal seat of the worship of Apollo,
but its glorious marble temple, theater and stadium have long since
CORiNTH CANAL
crumbled into dust. It is said that the grandeur of the mountain
scenery, the cold springs, and especially a natural fissure, whence
rcse a narcotic vapor, led to the erection of a temple to Apollo.
Hither, thousands came yearly to consult the Oracle, who could
only be interviewed in the Delphic month, corresponding to our
February and Marcli. Her prophecies were interpreted to the
people by the priests, who alone understood them. The Oracle,
whose advice was sought in all affairs of importance, sat on a
* A priestess supposed to voice Apollo's replies to queries.
FROM PATRAS TO ATIIEXS iii
golden tripod, placed across the fissure over wliicli the temple was
built. The most distinguished philosophers and poets were among
the pilgrims to this shrine. According to tradition, Delphi was
formerly the lair of the dragon, Pytho, slain by Apollo. The Romans
looted the temple man_v times, Nero alone carrying off more than
500 brazen images. The famous stone called Omphalus, or navel
stone, supposed to mark the center of the earth, was kept willi the
sacred fire in the cella or inner sanctuar}- of the temple.
The canal through the Isthmus of Corinth was opened, August
6th, 1S93. The idea of cutting such a passage was entertained by
Nero, who even began the work. The present canal was begun
by a French company, who, in 18S9, left it to be completed by the
Greeks. There are two breakwaters, each 785 ft. long, and two
lighthouses to protect the western entrance. The channel is 100 ft.
wide, three and a half miles long and twenty-six feet deep; for a
distance of one mile it is cut through solid rock.
As we neared Athens, we could see the quarries of Pentelicus,
which yielded the marble of which the ancient temples are built.
These quarries are still worked and there is no sign of their becom-
ing exhausted. Soon we were on our feet, with eyes straining for-
ward and the lines of B3-ron ringing in our ears: —
"Fair Greece, sad relic of departed worth,
Immortal, though no more, though fallen, great."
There, outlined against the blue of heaven stood the Acropolis,*
for centuries the mighty throne of that perfect work of man's chisel
and compass, — the Parthenon. We involuntarily offered our homage
to the man to whose wisdom and perseverance the world owes this
treasure, — the statesman, Pericles.
* The citadel.
CHAPTER XIII
ATHENS
. -^N our arrival at Athens at four o'clock in the after-
noon, we went at once to the Hotel Minerva. Mi-
nerva is the Roman name for Athena, the patron
goddess of the city. Mythology relates that during
the reign of Cccrops, a dispute arose between Athena,
goddess of war, and Poseidon as to the ]iossession of
Athens. A council of the gods decreed that the city
should belong to the one who offered the best gift to men. Poseidon
struck the ground with his trident and a salt spring welled up;
Athena touched the earth with her spear and immediately an olive
tree came forth; whereupon, Athena secured the prize.
After dining, we took a walk about the Place de la Constitu-
tion, and then hung out of our window facing on Stadium Street,
one of the thoroughfares, to watch the torchlight procession. This
is the month, as 3'ou know, when Greece celebrates the Olympian
games, — a revival of an ancient custom, — and we feel that we are
fortunate to be here, even at the close of the festival. The city
is as gay as arches, evergreens, flags and strings of pennants can
make it. The arches span the main streets at intervals of half a
block, and are brilliantly illuminated in the evening, thus forming
an avenue of light. The Greek flag, blue and white stripes with
a white cross, is seen everywhere, but those of other nations are
not forgotten. The Place de la Constitution, upon which the royal
palace faces, is like a section of Paris. In the center are tables
occupied by merry groups drinking lonkoniui* mastic/ia,-\ or Turkish
coffee; every one seems happy. Though the streets are crowded,
there is not a shrill voice, nor a loud laugh to be heard. The
* Sweetened gum and rose water,
f A liquor distilled from the gum of the mastic tree.
112
POSEIDON
ri4
A THENS
throngs are as decorous as those on the main grounds of our
World's Fair.
The architecture of the city, in general, is simple. The
houses on the principal streets are of marble or stone, sometimes
I)oth. When of stone, they are plastered over and painted in
shades of cream, chocolate or strawberr)-, the general effect
being light. University Boulevard, where a number of important
buildings and costly homes are situated, is a veritable avenue of
marble, from the quarries of Hymettus or Pentelicus. The side-
walks, treble the width of an ordinary American walk, are composed
THE UNIVERSITY, ATHENS
of solid blocks of stone. The most important of the public build-
ings are the University, the Academy of Science and the Hospital.
Of these, the Academy deserves special mention. It was con-
structed from the classic Greek designs of the celebrated architect,
Hansen of Vienna, at the expense of Baron Sina, and is the most
beautiful modern building I ever expect to see. It is of white
Pentelic marble. Its Ionic colonnades and sculptured pediments
are combined with painting and gilding in the most eff^ective manner.
The student is thus enabled to study the effect of color on marble,
a kind of decoration frec]uently employed by the ancients, the traces
of which have now almost entirely disappeared. Colossal sitting
figures of Plato and Socrates are placed on either side of the ffight
ii6
A THENS
of steps leading to the entrance. Athena in fuU armor, and Apollo
with his lyre, crown two detached columns in front.
Of the private residences, that (A the late Dr. Schliemann, the
great German excavator of Troy and ancient Greek cities, is the
finest. Between the columns of the loggia are Pompeian decora-
tions, and above the fagade is the inscription: — "Palace of Ilium,""'
RESIDENCE OF DR. SCHLIEMANN, ATHENS
in Greek, while surmounting the building is a row of gods and
goddesses, their marble forms gleaming in the twilight, like a proces-
sion of ghosts.
In studying Greek temples, it is interesting to remember the
origin of the various columns and the difference between them.
The Doric, f seen in the Parthenon and Theseum, is a fluted shaft
* Greek name for Troy.
■(' Derived from Doris, founder of the Dorians, one of the four great divisions
of the Greek race.
A TURNS
17
diminishing in size from the foot toward the top. The shaft has no
l)ase, but rests directly on tlie platform. The capital is composed
of two rather thin blocks, the lower one round with oval edge, the
ujipcr one scjuare. The Doric column was intend(>d bv the Greeks
to embody the dignity,
strength and simplicity
of the male form; the
Ionic, * seen in the Acad-
emy of Science, the deli-
cacy and grace of the
female; so, to the latter,
was added a horizontally
curved base representing
the sandals w o r n 1 ) \-
women, and it was
crowned by a scroll or
volute to suggest hair.
Corinth ianf columns,
used in the Arch of Ha-
drian, represented the
beauty of a maiden bear-
ing a basket on her head.
The Corinthian shaft is
elal)orately fluted, with
a decorated capital com-
posed of the leaves of
water plants headed by those of the acanthus and the tendrils
and flowers of the honeysuckle.
The morning after our arrival, we engaged an English-speaking
guide and set out for Phalerum, twenty minutes' ride by rail from
Athens, where the regatta, the final contest of the Olympian
games, was to take place. Phalerum is the next station to the
Piraeus, or port of Athens, and is quite a seaside resort. Many
wealthy people own villas along the shore, where are also a large
* Derived from Ion, forefather of the lonians, another division of the
Greek race.
t OritrinatinL' at Corinth.
GREEK MOUNTAINEERS
ii8 ATHENS
hotel, an open-air theater and a fine pier. The bathing and boat-
ing in summer are excellent.
There were many interesting sights on the beach, including
peep-shows, and stands where loiikouiui and a variet\' of little
cakes were sold. Men walked about, each with a tripod on a pole
hung with colored beads and return-balls made of leather, or with
a long stick strung with tempting crullers fresh from the bake-
shop. Mountaineers with their wives and babies had come down
for the day. The costume of the men consisted of a short ac-
cordion-iilcated skirt of white cloth, worn over tights, long leggings
of coarse cloth, cut out under the knee, to allow free movement
of the limbs, a short sleeveless jacket of some colored stuff, a
leather pouch and belt for the heavy -handled pistol and knife,
and a close red cap with a long blue tassel. The women wore
skirts and coats of coarse white homespun, braided in black, and
yellow handkerchiefs tied over their heads in the most ungrace-
ful fashion. In striking contrast were some rich peasant women
from Megara. One had a white satin skirt, }'ellow bodice and a
necklace composed of secjuins reaching from her throat to the hem
of her gown. Our guide estimated the cost of the costume to be
$600, which he said represented the fortune of her family.
Rows of seats, in the usual grand-stand fashion, were on
either side of the long pier, and at the end, the royal box. But,
alas! though the Crown Prince and his suite bustled about and looked
important, and the boats set their sails and cruised up and down
the course, the sea grew higher every moment. B\- eleven o'clock
the wind was blowing a perfect gale; the committees were forced
to call the regatta ofT, to "fold up their tents, like the Arabs and
silently steal away," with disgust plainly written upon each home-
turned face.
Having taken our guide for the day, we concluded that it was
best to make the most of his valuable services, so we repaired to the
Acrojiolis, a rrvstalhnc limestone plateau 200 ft. in height, and, in
spite (if the liercc; wind, we enjoyed intensely our first afternoon
around and upon that historic ground.
After looking at the ruins of the Theater of Dionysus, at the
base of the Acropolis, where the masterpieces of /Eschylus, Soph-
. / 7y/E.\'S
iig
ocles, Euripides and Aristophanes were first represented, wc; visited
the Odeum of Herodes Atticus, a wealthy Roman, who built this
theater as a memorial to his wife. It was constructed for dra-
matic and musical periormances, and accommodated 6000 people.
As in the Theater of
Dionysus, the tiers ol
seats were built on the
rocky slope of the Acrojv
o 1 i s. Ascending the
road to the plateau, we
passed through the Beule
Gate, named after the
Frenchman who discov-
ered it under the Turkish
bastions, where it had
long been concealed.
The Propylsea, or
gatewav of the Acropolis,
which lies in a direct line
a little above the Beule
gate, is entirely of Pen-
telic marble and consid-
ered the most important
secular work in Athens.
It was begun by the
architect, Mnesicles, in
437 R. C. , and finished
in five years. It extends across the west side of the Acropolis,
and consists of a central gateway and two wings. The gateway
proper is pierced with five openings, before which, on either side,
are Doric colonnades, giving to the whole the name, Propylaea,
"that which lies before the gates." Each of these colonnades has
six columns in front and was surmounted by a row of three-grooved
blocks called triglyphs, between sculptured metopes,* the whole
crowned by a pediment, f The central part of the Propylaja was
* The slabs between the triglvphs.
I Triangular, ornamental facing of a portico.
WOMEN FROM MEGARA
I20 ATHENS
bounded on the north and soutli liy massive walls. The north
wing, the best preserved, contains a hall called the Pinacotheca
from its use as a receptacle for votive paintings. During the 13th
century, the Franks converted this wing into government offices.
The Turkish pashas afterward resided there, until the central
structure was destroyed by an explosion of gunpowder in 1687.
Passing through the east portico of the Propylsea, we found our-
selves within the precincts of the Acropolis, with the perfect outlines
of the Parthenon in full view. The erection of this massive pile
of Pentclic marble was, as I have said, due mainly to Pericles,
whose executive ability was unparalleled. He secured the necessary
funds and placed the construction of the building in the hands of
two clever architects, Ictinus and Callicrates, entrusting the orna-
mentation to his friend, Phidias, who proved to be the greatest
sculptor of the age. The work was finished in 438 B. C. Surely
no pen could exaggerate the nobility and the dignity which clothe
this matchless structure. All traces of its many-colored decorations
have disappeared; only a few fragments of its sculptures remain;
but the massive Doric columns, and architrave,* the symmetrical
metopes and pediments are combined with such masterly knowledge
of construction and harmony that the effect is soul-satisfying. All
the columns swell in the center and lean a trifle toward the interior,
producing an impression of elasticit)-, most attractive to the eye.
Forty-six of these pillars form the portico of the temple and sur-
round the wall of the cella. Along the top of the wall, within the
portico, ran a magnificent sculptured frieze. It portrayed the citi-
zens of Athens on their way to the temple, to present to the
goddess Athena a saffron-colored robe woven by Athenian virgins;
a ceremony performed every four years. The east portico con-
tained the sacred vessels and votive offerings, while a small room
back of the cella served as a storehouse for the national treasure.
At one end of the cella, and facing the door into the pronaos,f
stood the splendid statue of the goddess Athena by Phidias. It
was thirty-nine feet in height and made of wood, covered with some
plastic material. Plates of ivory represented the flesh, and the
*The part resting immediately on the columns,
j- A porch of a temple.
122 ATHENS
draperies were of solid gold. The eyes of the figure were of marble,
painted to look as natural as possible. The value of the metal
used was estimated at forty-four talents* of gold. In times of war
the gold was removed and used, but when prosperity returned, it
was replaced. One hand supported a statue of Victory, six feet
high, while the other rested on a shield. The square of dark-col-
ored stone on which the pedestal rested can still be seen. Michaelis,
in his work on the Parthenon, mentions a raised platform in front
of this statue, on which the victors in the Panathenaean contests
mounted to receive the prizes, generally golden chaplets and vases
of olive oil, from the hand of the goddess, as it were.
In I So I, Lord Elgin, the British embassador to Greece, secured
from the government a permit to remove "a few blocks of stone
with inscriptions and figures." With this Himsy authority, he
quietly, but effectually, secured the pediments, some of the metopes
and the greater part of the Parthenon frieze and took them to
England. It is said that Lord Elgin vindicated himself of the
charge of vandalism, in a pamphlet published in 1810. However,
England finally paid the Greek government ^36,000 for the mar-
bles and they are now treasured in the British Museum.
Near the north edge of the Acropolis are the ruins of the
Erechtheum, on the site of the ancient temple of Erechtheus. It
was built upon the sacred spot where Athena and Poseidon strove
for the possession of the city. The olive tree which the goddess
caused to spring up, and the cleft made by the trident of the god
in producing the salt spring were shown to worshipers in the
ancient temple. The chamber entered from the east portico was
especially dedicated to Athena, the guardian of the citv; the Par-
thenon, to the virgin Athena. The aforesaid chamber contained a
wooden figure of the goddess, said to have fallen from heaven.
Before this figure a golden lamp always burned. The most inter-
esting part of the Erechtheum is the Portico of the Caryatides.
Th(" roof is supported l:)y the graceful forms of six maidens bearing
baskets upon their heads. They are said to represent the maidens
taken captive from their father, the king of Caryse, in Arcadia, be-
ATHENA
Supposed copy of the original by Phidias
124
A THENS
cause he sided wilh the Persians. The virgins themselves were
bound as slaves to Athena.
A short distance from the Erechtheum is the stone platform on
which probably stood the colossal bronze statue of Athena, fighter
in the van, made by Phidias, from the spoils of the battle of Mara-
thon. The figure, in full armor, was seventy feet in height, includ-
ing the pedestal, and towered above the Parthenon, the glittering
helmet and lance serving as a guide to ships approaching Athens.
Turning toward the Propylaea, we stood upon the steps of the
HuKin-U uF iHb LAKrAIiubb
Temple of the Wingless Victory, a beautiful little structure, restored
in 1835. Thence we looked back upon the works of men dead
two thousand years, creations of such strength and splendor that
they are well-nigh imperishable. The scarlet and gold on their
sculptures has long since faded, but the triumph of the chisel re-
mains, imprisoning the giant will of Pericles; the artistic feeling of
Phidias. Facing again the entrance to the Acropolis, one obtains
a glorious view of the surrounding country. To the southwest lies
the Saronic gulf laving the shores of the island of ^^Egina, where it
is said that the first European coin was struck, and where large
A THEN^
1^5
quantities of sponges are ol)taincd. There, is also the island of
Salamis, off whose coast Thcmistocles won the great naval battle,
in 480 B. C, frccinr;
In the even-
ing, we attended
a concert given
by an amateur
orchestra, and a
professional band
from Cephalonia,
an island west of
the gulf of Patras.
The elite of Ath-
ens were present
and we noticed a
number of pretty
Greek girls, their
dark eyes spark-
ling beneath the
brims of Parisian
hats. When the
orchestra ap-
peared, it would
have been easv to
imagine ourselves
at home, for the
lawyers, doctors
and literary men
who composed it,
looked in their full
evening dress, so
drc
forev
'er Irom the Pi^rsian voke.
""9
^^^^^^^Sl
^k.
B
Wiri -«^H
^^BjJF.- ■ '^-*M- j^f
•*
KING GEORGE OF GREECE
I have not seen a stupid-
like Americans that we were startled
looking Greek.
The doctor, who accompanied us, said that the country suffers
because of the over-education of the masses; there are so few
farmers, and so many professional men, unemploved. It seems to
be the ambition of every youth to graduate from the University,
126 ATHENS
and Athens boasts excellent schools. This thirst for knowledge
often induces young men to study all da)-, and then work half the
night to earn enough to support themselves. Many peasants in
the mountainous districts devote all their savings to the further-
ance of public education. The Greeks are singularly loyal, and,
even after having settled in foreign countries, make bequests to
promote building or educational schemes in their native land.
A striking instance is the recent effort to restore the ancient
Stadium, the oblong amphitheater where the Panathenaean contests
once took place, which was destroyed by the Turks. It is situated
in the hollow of a hill and the tiers of seats accommodate 60,000
persons. Its partial restoration was accomplished through the gen-
erosity of M. AverofT, a wealthy Greek residing in Alexandria. It
is rumored that before many years he will complete the interior,
making every seat of Pentelic marble, as in the past. So far, only
the first four rows have been thus restored. Stadium is the Greek
word for mile, and the race course within the enclosure is 582
ft. long.
The sight of the Stadium on April 15th, when the victors in
the recent Olympian games were crowned, was alone worth the trip
to Greece. Every one of the seats was taken that morning, and
many youthful citizens were hanging over the rear wall. Three
large bands were stationed at difierent parts of the arena, the one
from Cephalonia being at the main entrance. When the royal
carriages drew up before the gates, the multitudes rose to their feet
and cheered heartily. The royal family consisting of the King, the
Princesses Sophie and Marie, the Princes Constantine, George and
two younger l)r()thers, walked the entire length of the interior, fol-
lowed by the royal guests and the members of the court. The
King has a fine face and martial bearing. His generosity and
uniform courtesy have won him many new admirers among the
foreigners now in Athens. Princess Sophie, wife of the Crown
Prince Constantine, represented the Queen at the ceremonies of the
day, as the latter was kept away by a slight illness. She was
gowned in a dark material and wore a small dress bonnet and a
short velvet cape; she carried a bouijuet tied with the Greek colors.
Wluii the King received the victors, the scene was inspiring.
128 ATHENS
As the name of each was announced l)v the herald, the flao; of
his country was run up to the top of the iia^staff near the entrance
of the stadium, and greeted by a round of applause from the winner's
friends and compatriots. I ran assure you that, at the eleventh
appearance of our glorious stars and stripes, the enthusiasm was
most gratifying, Greeks vying with Americans in loud demonstra-
tions of delight. Each man walked up the steps of the throne,
and after shaking hands with the King, who spoke a word of con-
gratulation, received a diploma, a medal and a branch of the sacred
olive tree from Olympia. We were overjoyed to see every one of
the Americans back down the steps easily and gracefully, and much
amused at the awkwardness of some of the foreigners, who, born
and brought up in kingdoms, should have been familiar with court
etic]uette. The medals were of silver, with the Acropolis engraved
upon one side, and, on the other, the head of Olympian Zeus.
After the presentation was over, the King made a speech, and the
Crown Prince, whom the King publicly embraced, followed with
another. The success of the games was due mainly to the energy,
good judgment and clever management of the Prince. Then came
the procession of the victors. They marched about the stadium,
headed by the Greek who won the Marathon race. How we cheered
our boys who followed him ! How glad we were that it was a
Greek who won the race commemorating that great achievement
which once saved Athens from destruction! I will repeat the story
as it was related to me.
There were 100,000 Persians and only 10,000 Greeks on the
plain of Marathon, at the great battle of August 1 2th, 490 B. C.
The Greeks, in order to make their line as long as that of the
Persians, were obliged to weaken the center, but the sides were
strengthened. They stood so close together that their shields
formed a solid wall. When a favorable moment arrived, Miltiades,
commander of the Greeks, ordered them to charge the barbarians,
at a run. The Persians gained at first, as some of them forced
their way through the center of their opponents, and drove them
back to the mountains, but the wings, where were stationed
the Athenians and their allies, closed about the remainder and
utterly vanquished them. Above the Athenians slain that day, a
A THENS
ii<^
mound of earth was raised which still exists, a monument to their
memory.
Miltiades had told the Athenians left to guard the city that,
if they did not hear from him by a certain hour of a certain day,
they might conclude that he had been defeated and must at once
take to their ships, after setting fire to the temples and dwellings,
MOUND AT MARATHON
to prevent the enemy from coming into possession of them. When
he found that he had won the battle, he was aghast to discover
that little more than two hours remained in which to send a message
to save the city, twenty-six miles awa}-. He at once appealed to
his men for a volunteer messenger. One stalwart Athenian, though
fatigued by the battle, responded, knowing well that the attempt
meant almost certain death. His offer was accepted and he reached
Athens just in time, barely able to utter the word, "Nike!"* before
he fell dead from exhaustion. Fastened to his garments was a
* Victory.
9
I30 ATHENS
sprig of olive, whicli would have conve}'ed the message, had he
been unable to speak. The battle of Marathon is considered one of
the thirteen decisive battles of the world, and probably saved Europe
from being overrun by Asiatics.
The Greek who won the Marathon race last week was a voung
peasant from the mountains, named Spiro Loues; untrained, and
unknown among athletes. He accomjilished the run in less time
than his famous predecessor, but the latter was already spent with
the battle, while Loues was perfectly fresh. He might now be a
rich man, had he accepted the costly gifts offered him as a reward
for his feat, but he refused them all, saying that he strove for the
honor of his country, and not for money. Such is the inherent
nobility of the Greek. Some humorous incidents occurred at the
finisli of the race. It is said that a French lady tore off a costly
watch and chain, and offered them to Loues; that a barber wished
to shave him, free of charge, for the rest of his life, and that the
keeper of a restaurant presented him with several hundred meal
tickets.
The Greeks seem restless under a monarchical system of gov-
ernment, and look forward with hope to a republic. All classes
take a keen interest in politics, wliich they discuss in every public
place, with the greatest animation.
It is maintained that, owing to the lack of mterest in agri-
culture and manufactures, Greece would starve were it not for her
tremendous commerce with otJTcr nations. Among her chief ex-
ports are figs and oranges of a fine qualitv and the superior oil
of Attica.
The names of the streets and public buildings, and the signs,
are perplexing to the average tourist, because of the peculiar Greek
letters. The cabmen arc unable to speak any language save their
own ; the calendar is twelve days behind ours, and, altogether, we
feel at every turn as if we ought to study the Greek alphabet, at
least, in order to see things intelligently.
The Greek Church exerts great influence. Its supreme au-
thority' in Greece is the Synod,* meeting at Athens. There are
* A council of priests to consult on church matters.
A THENS
131
said to be more places of worship in this countrw in jiroportion to
its size, than in anv otlier. The site of a church, chapel or shrine
is always sacred; the name of the saint, to whom it was dedi-
cated, clings to the
spot, even after the
shrine has fallen in-
to ruin, and, on the
saint's day, a priest
generally conducts a
service there, while a
lamp or small wood-
en cross reminds the
wayfarer that it was
once a house of God.
The ordinary priests
are allowed to marr\'
once, but marriage is
forbidden to the
bishops. If they are
married at the time
of their elevation to
the bishopric, they
are obliged to put
their wives away.
Immorality among
the Greeks is rare,
and as divorces are
only granted on Bible
grounds, they are
comparatively few.
We have noticed '" '^' ' ' ^ ^ '
that many of the men carry strings of wooden beads, which they
move back and forth while talking or thinking. Upon in(iuirv, we
find that they are not rosaries, but supply an occupation for the
hands. We remember the people who twiddle their watch chains
and twirl their thumbs. The introduction of Greek beads into
America would supply a long-felt want.
132
A THENS
The third day after our arrival, Dr. C. called for us, and
we went with him to the shops where antiques are sold. Before
we returned to the hotel, he asked us if we would not like to
taste viasticka, a favorite beverage of the Greeks. On our assenting,
we were conducted to a large cafe, and soon, two goblets half full of
water were placed be-
fore us, and two small
glasses containing
something which ap-
peared to me like white
varnish and which
smelled about as fra-
grant. This we were
bidden to empty into
the water and drink.
They say masticlia is
an appetizer, generally
taken before luncheon
or dinner; as for our
enjoyment of it, — one
sip was enough.
Afterwards, we
spent three profitable
hours, in the National
Museum, gazing at
the rare collection of
archaic objects found
by Dr. Schliemann at
the ancient citadels of Mycense and other cities, in 1876-7. The
rooms containing this special collection are beautifully decorated,
and the articles are in handsome cases. They are principally the
contents of graves, including pottery, household utensils and articles
of personal adornment, such as combs, gold pins shaped like the old-
fashioned safety pin, scarabs,* intaglios, f buttons, wreaths of gold,
br-:-:' itplates, anklets and bracelets. There are exquisite gold cups,
■ Seals in the shape of beetles.
[Seals in which figures are cut, forming depressions.
ANCIENT GREEK TOMBSTONE
ATHENS
133
with heavy car\ings, and one especially beautiful vase of marble
with three ornate handles, like a loving-cup. Curious steles or
memorial slabs, brought from the highway on either side of which
the ancient Greeks buried their dead, occupy several rooms. The
favorite designs carved upon them arc parting scenes, where the
STREET (.
deceased is portrayed bidding farewell to his famil)'; there are also
tomb reliefs, where the departed is shown reclining on a couch at
a banquet, attended by slaves.
The treasures of the Museum whetted our curiosity to explore
this street of tombs, so we went at once to the spot. There are
many interesting monuments still standing (one dating from the 3rd
century B. C.) amid hillocks of stony ground and a tangle of weeds
outside the Dipylon, the gate of the old city.
Before dinner, we passed a pleasant hour in the studio of a
prominent sculptor, where my companion selected a marble copy
of the famous statue of Hermes by Praxiteles, the original of which
is in Olympia.
134 ATHENS
One evening, we went to the Grand Theater where Sophocles'
tragedy of Antigone was finely presented by a company made up
of members of the faculties of the University and the Conservatory
of Music. This was their third performance since the opening of
the games. There has been no previous attempt to present the
classic drama at Athens since it was given in ancient times on the
stage of the Theater of Dionysus, at the foot of the Acropolis.
No time, labor or money was spared to make this play a success.
The ancient customs, dress and manners were faithfully repro-
duced. People from many countries occupied the boxes and chairs,
following the action of the play with marked attention. The works
of Sophocles have always been models for students of dramatic
art. As a poet, Sophocles is universally admitted to have brought
the drama to its highest perfection.
We enjoy wandering around alone in the ancient quarters of
the cit}'. On ^Eolus Street one can see tailors, tinkers and shoe-
makers out in front of their shops, as busy as bees. In the same
section is the quaint old church constructed out of the fragments
of ancient buildings, by the Empress Irene, in 775 A. D. Beside
the church, there is a slab of gray marble about seven feet long,
bearing a Greek inscription: — "This is the stone from Cana of
Galilee, where Jesus Christ our Lord turned the water into wine."
This slab was discovered among the ruins at Elatea, and is thought
to have actualh' been brought from Cana. It was used as the altar
at the marriage of the present Crown Prince with the Princess
Sophie of Prussia, in 1889.
About five o'clock on Thursday, we loaded a carriage with our
bags and started for No. — Scufa Street, where our Greek guide
had secured a parlor and bedroom for us in a private house. We
had hoped to have the comforts enjoyed at Granada, but after a
two days' trial, we were obliged to change again. The walk up to
the house, which was situated on a hill, was too fatiguing after we
had been tramping about all day. The rooms were so stuffed with
furniture, vases, paper flowers, and even the actual toilet articles
and clothes of the family, that the air was unwholesome. Still, we
might have been able to endure all that, if it had not been for a
shrine in our bedroom, consisting of a large glass case filled with
A THEXS
135
icons,* beads and bottles of holy water. Before it hung a shallow
vessel filled with oli\c oil containing a lighted taper. It would
have been sacrilege to extinguish it, so we tried to sleep with its
glare in our eyes, our heads, in the meantime, resting on jiillows
that were stuffed with rags instead of feathers. The landlady was
very kind and at-
tentive, but we
were obliged to
put consideration
for her in the
background and
make our escape
as gracefully as
possible. We are
now settled at the
Hotel d'Athenes,
a n d have p e r -
suaded the pro-
prietor that ten
francs a day will
compensate him
for satisfying our
robust appetites.
The monu-
ments on the
Acropolis were il-
luminated, several
evenings, but it
jarred upon my
feelings to see the
Parthenon lighted
up like a pavilion
with red and green
fires, and I wanted to fl}- across the intervening space and put
them out. It seems to me that this edifice should be kept sacred;
that no modern invention should ever come near it.
OLGA, QUEEN OF GREECE
* Painted images, generally of the Madonna and child.
136 ATHENS
One enters the simple, but dignified Royal Palace through an
Ionic colonnade. Facing the door is a grand staircase, used only
by the family. To the left, beyond an arch, is a flight of marble
steps covered by a scarlet velvet carpet with a black Grecian key
border. This leads to the state apartments on the second floor.
The first of the suite, the Room of Battles, is hung with flags
used or captured in war. Among them are the ancient Persian
trophies. From the gilded throne-room we saw an ante chamber
encircled by a frieze of medallion portraits of noted Greek ministers.
The ballroom was filled with small tables, on which were the re-
mains of a state luncheon given the day before by the King to the
victors and committees of the games.
The Princess Marie, daughter of the King, is betrothed to the
Russian Grand Duke George, in deference to the wishes of her
mother (according to gossip in Athens), who is a Russian and in
every way endeavors to promote friendship between the two nations.
We are told that this engagement is a great disappointment to the
people, who would prefer the King of Servia, a suitor whom the
girl had favored and who rules a nation which is on the best of
terms with Greece. As we were returning from the palace, a number
of the royal carriages, with footmen and coachmen in Greek dress,
passed us. It looked very strange to see a man in ballet skirts
holding the reins over a pair of spirited horses, while the occupants
of the carriage wore Parisian costumes.
The wife of the American consul has invited us to tea on
Thui'sday next, but as we must leave Athens before that time, we
are forced to forego the pleasure.
It has been cold for the last two days, and we have been
uncomfortable. There is no way of heating our room except hy
a brazier, a cylindrical iron affair like a bowl on legs, filled with
live coals, upon which sizzles a lemon cut in two. We wonder
whether it is there for ornament, or to absorb the gases which so
fill the room, that we are obliged to leave the door open, thus
admitting more cold air. The "chambermaids" are all men, and it
has been rather trying to have strapping young fellows tidy our
bedroom. But they are more obliging than half the maids, and
actually hang our dresses up by the loops!
A THENS
137
We are becoming so fond of the Hymettus honey, which has
been eaten by the Greeks from time immemorial, that we intend to
take a few jars away with us, for tlie benefit of home friends. It
is gathered by the bees from the wild white thyme that grows on
Mt. Hymettus, and has its peculiar, delicate flavor.
On Sunday we attended earl\' mass at St. Irene's. On a little
table beside the entrance there was a tray of coins; behind it, a
priest holding a crucifix in one hand and a sprig of sacred olive
in the other. As the faithful passed him, they dropped their coins
ARCH OF HADRIAN AND TEMPLE OF ZEUS
upon the tray, while he held the crucifix to their lips and touched
the olive branch to their brows. We also made an offering, and
entered. Just inside the door candles of all sizes were sold; some
were two feet long. Each worshiper bought a candle of whatever
size he wished, and, passing through the vestibule into the body of
the church, stepped up to a silver candelabrum before an icon,
lighted his candle and placed it in one of the cups, which were of
various sizes.
The apse in all Greek churches is shut off from the body of
the church by a partition called the temp/on. In this are three
narrow doors. The high priest and king, only, are permitted to enter
138 ATHENS
the central door, which, when open, discloses the Holy Table on
which arc placed the gospels, paintings of saints and service book.
Assistant priests use the two side doors. During the service, the
liturgy was chanted by an assistant and a fine boy choir. There
were no artificial flowers, no little lambrequins of cheap lace, no
harrowing crucifixions or entombments. All things breathed rever-
ence, peace and quiet dignity.
Although we were pleased with St. Irene's, we were charmed
with the Russian church, near the palace, where the Queen attends
service, and whither we went about half past ten. The interior is
sumptuously decorated and furnished in the Greek colors, blue and
white. It is so small, that one can almost shake hands, as soon
as he enters, with the assistant priest chanting the service before
the tciuploii. There are no seats except within two side alcoves,
where the royal family were worshiping. The high priest, looking
like a patriarch, with flowing hair and beard of snowy white, was
arrayed in a full robe of heavy blue and white silk bordered and
decorated in silver. Upon his head was a turban or tall hat, set
with miniatures of saints surrounded by brilliants, and the spaces
between were embroidered in gold and pearls. The whole structure
was stiff, and seemed very heavy, as at different points in the
service, it was removed and replaced.
The ancient city of Athens was divided by Hadrian from the
new (juarters by an arch, a part of which is still standing. An
inscrii)tion upon one side, translated, i"eads, "This is Athens, the old
city of Theseus;" that upon the other, "This is the city of Hadrian,
and not of Theseus." The arch formed the entrance, also, to the
quarter where there was a great temple dedicated to Zeus, "father
of gods and king of men." Sixteen of the huge Corinthian columns
yet remain to emphasize the general destruction. Legend relates
that from this spot the last waters of the Deluge disappeared.
The Theseum, Temple of Theseus, a mythical king of Athens,
is the best preserved edifice in all Greece. After having braved the
storms of two thousand years, it shows only a few signs of decay;
the drums of some of the columns have been shifted a trifle by
earthquake shocks. This temple is supposed to have been erected
to commemorate the battle of Marathon.
A THENS
139
Since the first two days of our visit to Athens, we liave not
employed a i^uide, but with the assistance of our Greek friend,
Dr. C, and rel3'ing upon Bsedeker, we have managed to see a great
deal of the citv. There is an exhibition of Greek industries, in the
THE THESEUM
beautiful structure called the "Zappeion," which includes some
pretty tissues and fancy silk weaves, embroideries, carvings in marble
and wood and quantities of perfumes and soaps.
Yesterday morning we took a carriage and drove to Colonus
where Sophocles lived. From there, we looked down upon the
plot of ground dedicated to Athena, and named after Academus,
the first owner. The word "academy" is taken from the name of
this classic spot. It was under the shade of the olive trees in this
garden, that Plato spent many years with his pupils.
Our horses' heads were then turned toward Eleusis, and we
travelled along the Sacred Way as far as the Convent of Daphne,
about half way to the Temple of the Mysteries dedicated to Demeter.
The Sacred Way is the road over which the Eleusinian torch-
140 ATHENS
light procession passed from Athens to the temple during the great
festival celebrating the legend of Demeter, who, while in search of
her daughter, Persephone, abducted by Hades, was hospitably re-
ceived by the King of Eleusis, and in return taught his people
how to till the soil. This tine road is bordered by a hedge of
century plants and shaded by poplars; wild flowers, especially pop-
pies, carpet the spaces between. About a mile beyond the modern
Botanical Gardens, is a gi^ove of hoary olive trees, their twisted
trunks and boughs looking like masses of boa constrictors. One
special tree, whose age and size seem fully to justify the name, is
called "Plato's olive tree," and man) .believe that he sat and taught
beneath it. All the bark is gone, and only a few weather-beaten
branches show signs of life. Traces of aqueducts and of the tomb-
stones which once lined the road are still visible.
We met some interesting country folk coming into town, and
itinerant cobblers, with sticks across their shoulders loaded with low
shoes, the toe turned up and finished with a pompon. Donkeys
were plodding along under great four-pocketed panniers filled with
lemons and oranges.
The convent, which we reached after a two-hours' drive, dates
from 1263 and contains a fine Byzantine mosaic of Christ. The
Sacristan was verv attentive, and before we departed, broke a couple
of stalks from a little pot of flowers on the wall and presented to
us the only bit ot brightness within the cloister.
1 can assure you that we did justice to the delicious fried fish,
artichokes and spinach awaiting us on our return to the hotel at one
o'clock. The spinach is beaten almost to a powder and mixed with
cream, a combination which is very light and palatable.
After a short siesta, we walked to the Areopagus, or Mars
Hill, so called from the mvth that Ares was tried here for murder.
It was the open-air court of the ancient Athenians, where aged
citizens of high standing exercised supreme jurisdiction in cases of
life and death. It is said that the tribunals were held at night, so
that no glance of the eye or motion of the hand might influence
the judges for or against the accused. From this hill, St. Paul
probably delivered his sermon, found in the seventeenth chapter
of Acts.
A THEA'.'s
141
After gathering some wild flowers, we descended to the site
of the old cit}', at the foot of Mars Hill, where remains of cisterns,
conduits, mosaic floors and traces of streets and marble thresholds
are to be found. Near Mars Hill is the Hill of the Nymphs. At
kRiSON of SOCRATES
the southeast corner is a spot made smooth by women, who in
past times believed that sliding down its steep incline would cure
sterility.
On the Hill of the Pnyx is the ruin of one of the earliest
structures of Athens, an immense platform 395 ft. long b\- 212 ft.
wide. Here the people held their political assemblies. The Bema
or orators' stage was located at the base of a rock, where sockets
cut for supports are still to be seen. The votive tablets, formerly
occupying niches in the supporting wall, are now in the British
Museum. Three doorwavs cut in the side of the neighboring hill
lead to the so-called prison of Socrates, who is said to have been
confined in this rocky cavern for thirty days, before drinking the
cup of hemlock by which he was condemned to die.
The people still keep up certain curious old customs, notably
that of carrying their dead through the streets with the face ex-
posed to the rays of the sun.
142 ATHENS
To-day we have bidden farewell to the Acropolis, and have
made our last purchases, for, to-morrow, we return to Patras,
whence we shall go to Olympia, my heart's desire, in the Pelopon-
nesus. The more we see of the Greeks, the better we like them,
for they are intellectual, dignified and kind-hearted.
"Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, hoh' ground;
No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould.
But one vast realm o{ wonder spreads around,
And all the Muse's tales seem truly told,
Till the sense aches with gazing to behold
The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon:
Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold,
Defies the power which crushed thy temples gone:
Age shakes Athena's tower, but spares gray Marathon."
f4'
CHAPTER XIV
FROM OLYAIPIA TO ROME
HEN we left the train at Patras, the sun was slowly
sinking behind the mountains of Epirus across the
gulf, bathing them in such liquid colors that the
peaks seemed to lose all connection with earth and
float like clouds in mid-air. Below this range lies
Missolonghi, where Lord Byron lived for some
time while zealously assisting the Greeks in their
struggle with the Turks. He was appointed com-
mander of an expedition against Lepanto, and was
making read}-, when he was attacked by a fever, induced, no doubt,
by privation and overwork, and died April 19th, 1824. His body
was sent back to England, but his heart is buried at Missolonehi,
where a monument was erected to him, in 1881. Byron's memory
is greatly revered by the Greeks, and squares and streets are
named after him, in the principal cities.
Although the different parties on the train from Patras to
Olympia seemed to be provided with guides, we went alone. Our
journey took us along the coast as far as Achaia, when we struck
southward. As we whirled past the farms of this fertile district,
we could see the peasants in their queer costumes, digging about
the roots of the vines to keep the soil soft and yielding. The
wheat seemed no further advanced than it would be in Illinois at
this time of the year, and winter clothing was still comfortable.
When we began the descent to the plains of the Alpheus river,
an Arcadian valley lay before us. Surely the ancients thought to
please the gods when they selected this spot for their sacred pre-
cinct. Encircled by a low range of hills and at the junction of
two cr3-stal streams, a glorious abode was prepared for their pagan
143
144
FROM OLYMl'IA TO ROME
deities. But Mother Earth became angry with Olympia, and,
refusing longer to bear her marvels of architecture, trembled, and
their columns were laid k)\v. Mt. Cronius shook from its mighty
side clay and rocks that buried the splendid treasure-houses. In
after years the rivers, Alpheus and Cladeus, as if pitying the
stricken one, rose and spread a soft mantle of sand over the
broken forms of the temples and later Christian churches.
As early as the first part of this century, prominent archaeol-
ogists discussed and even attempted to uncover Olympia, but noth-
ing of any importance was accomplished until 1874. In that year,
a party of Germans headed by Ernst Curtius secured the right
to excavate. In six winters they succeeded in freeing nearly the
entire district from the sand and clay, which in some places was
twenty feet deep. The most important find was the Plermes of
Praxiteles, but other valuable discoveries were made; for Olympia
is second only to Pompeii in interest, from an archaeological point
of view.
Our hotel overlooked the ruins, and after dining, we took guide-
book and map and for five hours tramped, climbed and crawled
over stones and brush, crushing delicate wild flowers under our
relic-hunting feet. What a pathetic sight the broken columns,
dismembered capitals and moss-grown pavements, but how full of
majesty each separate stone!
The temple erected in honor of Zeus, king of the gods, was
the most important edifice at Olympia; built in the Doric style
and 2105^ ft. long. The columns, now lying in sections, just as
the earthquake threw tliem from their bases, were thirty-four and
a fifth feet high and seven and a third feet in diameter. They
were quarried in the neighborhood out of porous stone, a mass of
shell, clay and charcoal that is very brittle, now, from long exposure
to the air. The nave of the cella was paved with black limestone
and Pentelic marble and contained a gold and ivory statue of Zeus,
forty feet high, by Phidias, and said to have been his best work.
This statue was taken to Constantinoj^le by the Turks, but frag-
ments of its pedestal are still scattered about. Close by, is the
triangular base of the statue of "Ni'ke, " by Paeonius, a Thracian
sculptor who lived about 435 B. C.
146 FROM OLYMPIA TO ROME
The Heraeum, erected to Plera, is next in importance, and the
oldest known temple in Greece. The base that probably upheld
the statues of the goddess and her consort Zeus still remains in
the cella; also that of the famous Hermes.
While exploring the ruins, we met an aristocratic-looking lady,
accompanied by a stately young woman, who, like ourselyes, was
hunting for the lead pipe used to carry oft rain water from a man-
sion built and used by Nero. At last, we found it in almost perfect
condition.
When Qinomaus, king of Pisa,* desired to marry off his
daughter Hippodamia, he amused himself by challenging her suitors
to a chariot race, putting to death all those whom he succeeded
in vanquishing. Pelops, an athletic young warrior, laid him low,
and thus secured the hand of the charming "Hippy," so, ever
since, Pelops has been the prototype of the victor, and was held in
great reverence at Olympia. Very little remains of the inclosure
sacred to him. The cella of the Bouleuterionf once contained the
statue of Zeus, the protector of oaths, with a thunderbolt in each
hand. Here, those who were about to compete in the Olympian
games took an oath that they had finished the ten months' training
prescribed for all who wished to enter the contests, and that they
would also obey all the rules and regulations. Although the origin
of these games goes back to prehistoric times, no regular chron-
icle was kept until 776 B. C. At the beginning of the sacred
month when the games were to take place, heralds were sent all
over Greece to proclaim universal peace during the period of the
festival, which lasted for five days. During this time, the priests
made solemn sacrifices to the gods. These were accompanied by
athletic contests of all descriptions. The prizes awarded were
simply branches from the sacred olive tree. It was inspiring to
stand upon the historic ground where fully 1500 years ago the last
Olympian festival was held, and gratifying to know that we have
witnessed the revival of the ancient games at Athens.
Only a small portion of the Stadium at Olympia has been
excavated. The seats were cut in the hillsides and the course was
* City in the Peloponnesus.
\ Courthouse.
FROM Or.VMrJA ro ROME 147
a strai<:^ht one, so that tlie runiuTs did not rctLirn to the starting'
point, as at Athens; it was exactly one Oh'mjiie mile in len,L;th.
The main g\mnasium was more than a stadium long. Here the
athletes were obliged to practice under the direction of trainers for
a month previous to the contests, while those who so desired were
]K'rmitted to practice there the entire ten months. The court used
1)\' the wrestlers is j:)aved with a material corrugated like fire brick.
But I shall weary you if I give further details, so we will
leave the temples and go across the bridge to the Museum where
the precious marbles are now caretullv housed. The Ijroken
pieces of the sculptured pechments ot the temple of Zeus are
fastened to the wall of a large room in their exact relative posi-
tion and small models, showing the pediments restored, are near
by. One represents centaurs at a marriage festival, attempting
to abduct the maidens. Fourteen thousand small bronzes, as well
as larger marbles, have been found in the ruins. We also noticed
a bronze discus or quoit, thick in the center and thin at the edge.
According to the inscription, it was used in the 225th Olympiad.*
In a room especially designed for it stands the Hermes of Praxit-
eles, to me, the most beautiful statue in the world. The smile of
the mobile mouth is as gentle, the curling locks as crisp, as when
the master sculptor gave the finishing touch to his labors. The
gathered mold of a thousand years has stained the perfect oval of
the cheek and throat, but we forget that, when under the spell of
such beauty. Several years ago, I heard Professor Thomas David-
son, of New York, lecture on the discovery of this figure m 1878.
He said that, as the statue was unearthed and lay at full length
on the ground, he knelt down to stud}- the features, in order to
determine whether or not it was the Hermes so eagerly .sought.
Gazing intently upon it, he suddenly felt the warm blood rush to
his face, and experienced a feeling of mortification. Rising, he
ijuestioned himself as to the cause of the emotion. It seemed that
the spirit of the sculptor had so inspired the speechless marble as
to make him feel that he had been impcrtinentlv staring into the
face of the living.
Hermes, the favorite son and winged messenger of Zeus, was
* A period of four years.
148 PROM OLYMPIA TO ROME
the god of reproduction, the gentle shepherd who protected the
newly born lamb, and the conductor of departing souls. He is
represented standing; one arm supports his infant brother Dionysus,
while the other is raised aloft; the hand probably held a bunch
of grapes temptingly before the eyes of the babe. A deep line
furrows the bi^ow of the Hermes, making it double, and passes
about the head, signifying that he was a direct descendant of Zeus.
As is usual in ancient statues of divinities, the absence of the
organs of digestion is noticeable in the anatomy of the form. One
foot is restored; the other still shows traces of color in the exquisite
carving of the sandal, a thread of scarlet, a touch, here and there,
of gold. The visitors to the hall of Hermes walk about on tiptoe
and dream over the marvellous sweetness of the face. To see it
is to love it, and, although modelled by a pagan hand, the divine
essence of a soul truly great has penetrated the stone and will
breathe forth, forever.
When we came out from the museum, we saw a party of fifty
archaeologists, returning from a visit to Tripolitza, the only town
of any size in Arcadia.* The}' were mounted on mules, and were
the most bedraggled, worn-out-looking mortals imaginable. They
stopped at another hotel, the only one besides ours; it is considered
inferior by tourists. We wondered how they fared, for the best
was bad enough.
When we looked out of the window that evening, at twilight,
the prettiest pastoral scene greeted our eyes. On one of the hill-
sides was a circular hedge, and a couple of shepherds, aided by the
liveliest little dog you ever saw, were gathering the sheep into the
rustic fold. The fiock huddled together in the center of the in-
closure, and soon lay down to sleep, the mites of lambs cuddling
up to their woolly mammas. The little dog scurried about the out-
side of the hedge, poking his nose under each projecting bush, as
if the responsibility for stray lambs rested entirely upon his diminu-
tive shoulders. At last, all became quiet, and his dogship rested
on his liaunches, with panting sides and lolling tongue, while the
shepherds leaned on their crooks in front of a simple hut and
gazed pensively off across the valley.
* An inland province of the Peloponnesus.
THE HERMES, BY PRAXITELES
I50 FROM OLYMPIA TO ROME
On our second trip to the ruins, the next morning, we saw
women washing hnen by the river Cladaus, so we went out of our
way to call upon them. They seemed delighted, and offered us
some wine out of a bottle that was not very inviting. They beat
their linen with a broad paddle, on a Hat stone. The garment is
first soaped, and then hot water is poured over it from a tin dish.
A gypsy kettle, swung above some fagots, supplied the water.
About eleven o'clock, we climbed a short distance up Cronius Hill
and sat down under a tree. Below, on our right, were the ruins
of the treasure-houses; on our left, the country road leading to
Pyrgos. Settling ourselves in a comfortable position, we took out
our notebooks and prepared to write, but the people toiling up the
hill were so interesting that we gave up our work and passed an
hour, all too short, in making several acquaintances. A little girl
presented my companion with a lovely nosegay, and when she re-
turned the compliment with some pieces of loukoumi, the child did
not know what to do with them. Mrs. M. ate a piece, as an illus-
tration, and then put one to the girl's mouth, which at last opened
to receive it. A look of supreme satisfaction came into her large
brown eyes as the sweet morsel touched her tongue; doubtless, she
had never tasted candy before. Later, two young peasant women
stopped and spoke to us, and how we wished we could understand
them. The younger had a bright-colored woolen bag over her
shoulder. Immediately, I coveted that bag, for I knew it was
homespun and dyed, and I had long been wanting a specimen of
Greek weaving. So I opened my purse and took out one coin
after another, gently pulling on the bag all the time; at last she
understood me, and when a number of drachmes lay on her palm,
she emptied the contents of the bag, — raw potatoes, large green
beans, a bottle of water and an old rusty knife — into her uplifted
dress skirt, and gave it to me. Her companion offered me one of
the beans, which the peasants consider a dainty and eat as we do
celery. The whole transaction seemed a joke to the two women
and we could hear their merry laughter after they had passed out
of sight. Of course, the girl made a sharp bargain, but three times
the amount paid would not buy a Greek bag in America, and so
I am content. Just then a queer procession appeared, evidently a
FROM Or.YMP/A TO ROME 151
family, mo\ing. The father led the way, driving a number of cattle
and sheep, and a drove of pigs with sharp noses like the wild boars
in picture-books; \\c was assisted by a couple of boys with crooks.
The grandmotlu'r antl youngest child came next seated on a pile of
bedding, on the back of a superannuated horse; the old woman was
leading a mule loaded witli household goods, on top of which were
four chickens tied down by the legs, squawking and cackling. The
grandfather, with the wife and the other children, plodded along
behind.
After eating a luncheon of hard-boiled eggs, Hymettus honey
and dry bread, we started for the little station. While trudging
beside the Cladaus, a peasant, who was standing with his wife in
the door of a cottage on a hill, spied us, and immediately came
down, in\iting us to visit his house and have some iiiasticlta. We
were sorry to decline, as even our cordial "evcharisto" * did not
drive away the cloud of disappointment from his brow. The
country peojile are ver}' hospitable, and it is almost an affront to
refuse their in\itations, but we were pressed for time and had not
the courage to tr\- iiiastic/ia again. There was an eccentric-looking
German in our car, going back to Patras; he wore huge gold rings
on both forefingers and looked so wise that we put him down as
an archaeologist at once.
Imagine our delight, when, upon boardmg the steamer for
Brindisi, we found the Professor and his party on board. It was
quite a reunion, and Doctor C, who had come to see us off,
seemed quite despondent when the steamer moved away from the
dock and left him behind. We were eciuall}' sorr\' to say fare-
well, for he had jirovcd a kind friend in assisting us to understand
his countr}-. The lad\' and her daughter, with whom we had talked
among the ruins at Olympia, were among the passengers; the mother
is an Austrian baroness.
Again, we experienced the sensations of nausea, until the sight
of water, even in a tumbler, made us ill. We supposed our tortures
were over when the steward aroused us, at one o'clock on the
second morning, announcing that the ship was nearing port; but,
* Thank \ou.
152
FROM OLYMPIA TO ROME
not so. We were quarantined for two liours, while an Italian
doctor marshalled us upon deck and down again, counting us twice;
then, finding that the number of shivering, sulk}- individuals did
not correspond with the sliip's register, he ordered us all on deck
again, while the ship was searched. The poor baroness was the
missing one. She had been very ill and, as she was going on to
Trieste, thought it unnecessar}' to rise. Nevertheless, she was
.-^-..^ .^ .,^^.,..,.,.^^-_^ forced to dress and appear
on deck, that the authorities
might be assured that she
did nut have any contagious
disease. I can see her now,
with her face flushed, hat
awry, and clothing simply
thrown on, presenting a
comical contrast to her
former dignified self.
Tarentum, or, as the
Italians call it, Taranto, our
lirst stopping-place after
leaving Brinclisi, was once
the most important city of
Magna Grsecia.* It was
founded on the borders of
the Gulf of Tarentum, b)'
a colony of Spartans, in 707
B. C, and noted for agri-
culture, sheep farming and
the manufacture of a purple
dye extracted from mussel shells; this dye furnished the color used
for the mantles of royalty. In the 4th century, art in coinage had
reached a high plane, and it is said that the gold coins of Taren-
tum were the finest ever struck by the Greeks. The fishermen,
there, speak a dialect so mixed with the mother tongue as to be
hardly intelligible to the Italians among whom they dwell. The
-LIAN CHILDRE
* Great Greece.
FROM OLYMriA TO ROME 153
town is built on a rock dividing an inlet into the "Large Sea"
and the "Small Sea." A great variety of fish, and fine oysters
are caught in the Small Sea; stakes here and there mark off the
oyster beds. Alon^ the shores are fishermen's huts.
We engaged a carriage and drove through the town, past the
extensive arsenal and naval buildings, to the Villa Beaumont-
Bonelli. It was Sunday, market-day in Tarentum, and the peas-
ants from the neighboring farms were in town, with herds of cattle,
sheep and goats. There was a fine displa\- of harness in a jiart
of the piazza called the harness market; it seems to be a specialty
of the place. The gardens of the Villa Beaumont-Bonelli are
charming with C3'press and rose walks, summer-houses and arbors;
vines are trained from tree to tree, forming a perfect veil of green.
We had selected the Europa Hotel from the list in our guide-
book, as the best in Tarentum, and instructed our driver to take
us there, after leaving the villa. We have been travelling so many
weeks among people who do not understand English, that we have
acquired a careless habit of talking freely to each other, before
an\' one. So, when our carriage stopped in front of what appeared
to be a third-class hostelry, regardless of a portly gentleman who
was standing in the doorway, I exclaimed to my companion: — "Foi
goodness' sake, don't let us stop at this horrid-looking place! I am
sure we shall not get a thing fit to eat, and I am simply famished!"
To my disma\', before she could reply, the gentleman stepped to
the carriage and with an amused smile on his face, said, in our
miither tongue, that he was quite sure we could get "a very good
dinner at the Europa;" he was a guest of the house himself and
knew all about it. He was right. There was a neat table with a
center-piece of raw vegetables cut in the shape of flowers, and our
hunger was appeased with some delicious sweetbreads, macaroni
and preserves; all for two lire. Before going to the station, we
gathered some mussel shells on the beach; they are about eighteen
inches long, and exquisitely tinted with pink and yellow„
As we approached Naples, the country became more and
more picturesque. Hamlets are clustered on the terraced mountain
sides, far up deep glens; not an inch of soil is unused, even when the
slopes are nearly perpendicular. At towns along the road, soldiers.
154
FROM OLVMPTA TO ROME
most of them mere boys, boarded the train. They were evidently
peasants, newly drafted for the war in Africa, bidding good-bye to
their wretchedly poor families. The women and children, in cloth-
ing scarcely better than rags, stood on the platform, weeping and
sobbing, clasping in their earth-stained hands those of the beloved
husband or son whom their country called. It was pitiful! There
CASCADE IN kiARDENS AT CASERTA
is always something inspiring in defending one's fatherland, but lor
these men, the prospect of the long journey, torrid climate and
barbarous foes was gloomy indeed, as their pallid and drawn faces
indicated.
We stayed over night in Naples and left the next morning
for Caserta, where we arrived at nine o'clock. Caserta is noted
especially for the royal palace, built by Charles III. This is prob-
ably the largest and most richly decorated palace in Italy; it forms
a rectangle, and contains two hundred and fifty rooms, including a
theater. A marble staircase of superb proportions, Hanked by lions,
leads to the second story. We could not even guess at the height
FROM OLYMPIA TO ROME 155
of the ceilini^s in the state apartments; tliev were covered witli
splendid frescoes and huni;' witli chaiuleHers of \'enetian f^hiss.
Colossal gilded figures stand iorth in relief from the panels of the
side walls; tables of lapis lazuli and petrified wood, basins of alabaster
and vases of porcelain rest upon mosaic floors. Passing through
the king's drt'ssing-room, we glanced in a mirror and saw reflected
such tanned and sunburned faces that we retired, "immejit."
The gardens are so extensive that it takes several hours to
give them even a cursory glance; the terrace below the cascade
is fully two miles from the palace. Groups of statuarv break the
fall of the waters, and splendid fountains toss their sprav into the
air, which is fragrant with roses and lilies.
The road to Santa Maria di Capua \'etere would delight a
bic3cler's heart; it is perfect. Bevond the shade trees, on either
side, lie farms, which look as though thev had been laid out by a
landscape gardener, so symmetrical are the rows of grain, the vine-
yards and the orchards. The customhouse officers at Capua did
not quite like to permit us to enter the town without opening our
baggage, which was piled up in the carriage. However, as I as-
sured them that we would take the train to Rome, imiriediately after
visiting the amphitheater, they reluctantly allowed us to proceed.
At one time, Capua was the largest citv in Italy, except Rome.
It was founded by the Etruscans, a race now extinct. The amphi-
theater, dating from the first century B. C, is of travertine,* and
said to be second in size to the Colosseum, only. But two of the
eighty entrance arches are standing. Beneath the arena measuring
eighty-three In- forty-nine yards is a network of underground pas-
sages, galleries for the use of gladiators and dens for wild beasts.
Tunnels led from the latter to cages, which were hoisted b)' pulleys
to the arena above. We made out the name, "Caesar, "in an in-
scription upon a broken block of marble lying on the ground.
A long wait at the station gave us ample time to re-read a
packet of precious letters from the dear ones at home, and to
make entries in our neglected notebooks.
* A white semi-crvstalline limestone.
CHAPTER XV
ROME
E are within the walls of the "Eternal City;" already
her magic spell is upon us and she is mistress of
our thoughts, as once she was mistress of the world.
There is something fascinating about the very name,
"Rome," suggesting, as it does, the triumphs of
C?esar, the cruelty of Nero and the ambition of
.^ Leo X. The architecture of the ancients is so grand
^ and solemn that it seems to rebuke modern attempts
to make the capital a commercial center; attempts
which ha\'e meant bankruptcy to thousands of people.
As we entered the cit}-, on the evening of April 28th, we were
dreaming of the Alban mountains, the deserted Campagna and the
ruins on the tufa hills beneath the twinkling lights of myriad stars.
Suddenly, we were awakened with a start; the door was flung open
and the usual rush of p(.)rters began. After a prolonged wrestle
with the pompous customhouse officer, who always suspects one of
carrying merchandise, and the cabman, who demands ten cents
more than one will pay, we started for the Piazza di Spagna, in
the center of the city. The small cab creaked under the com-
bined weight of ourselves, four telescopes, shawl straps, lunch
basket, bundle of canes, umbrellas and shepherd's crooks, and last,
but not least, the marble Hermes which we have dubbed the
"Baby."
Rome is as "clean as a whistle." The streets are paved with
square stones laid in diamond pattern, with a border along the
narrow sidewalks. These paAing stones are very thick, and sharp-
ened on one side to a point which is driven into the earth. On
such pavements the cabs roll as smoothly as on asphalt.
Our hotel is rated as a second-class house, but what care we,
156
i5fi
HOME
if aristocratic travellers do not stop here, so long as our rooms are
airy, the linen fresh and the rent, for each person, only two and a
half lire per day? We have found several good restaurants near
bv, and, with our little home teas, we are delightful! \- coz}' and
FOUNTAIN OF TREVl, ROME
comfortable. The hrst dinner cost us forty-seven cents each, and
we had beefsteak, potatoes, peas and a pudding; everything well
cooked and well served.
As surely as the burnished dome of St. Peter's first attracts
the eye, just so surely does the tourist direct his steps toward
this, the largest church in the world, as soon as he is settled in
Rome. The vast piazza in front of St. Peter's is partly inclosed
by semicircular colonnades, and the famous obelisk brought from
Heliopolis is in the center. The facade is so constructed that it
ROME
1 59
hides the proportions of the dome from one who is approachins^.
Nevertheless, the general eHeet is astonishingly good, when one
considers how many architects with different ideas had a hand iii
the stujiendous work. Michael Angelo jiartirdly restored the plan
of Bramante, a Lombard architect, who had designed the church
in the form of a Greek-
cross* to be surmounted
bv a gigantic dome.
After the death of Michael
Angelo in 1564, the na\e
was altered by Carlo
Maderna, so that the
church might assume the
shape of a Latin cross, f
He also added the un-
suitable facade. St.
Peter's was consecrated
by Pope Urban \'III. on
November i8th, 1626.
The cost of the structure
when finished amounted
to 47,000,000 scudi.;j; Its
area is 18,000 sq. yds.
There are five great
doors; the Porta Santa
at the extreme right is
used only at jubilees,
which are supposed to
be celebrated once in
twentv-five years. statue of st peter
Within the brazen double doors at the end of the great nave,
is a slab of porph\'ry whereon many of tlic emperors were crowned.
A short distance from the high altar, is the seated bronze statue
of St. Peter. Our attention was attracted to the lines of worshipers,
* A cross with arms equal in length.
t A cross with one arm longer than the others.
\ Scudi, plural of scudo, equal to one dollar.
i6o ROME
who paused to kiss the right foot of the statue. One woman, with
a sense of cleanliness, wiped it with her handkerchief before press-
ing her lips to its surface. The toes of this foot are worn away
by the religious fervor of successive generations.
In the transepts and side aisles are the elaborate monuments
of many popes and other notabilities, which, with few exceptions,
are inartistic.
From the high altar the view of the interior is striking, com-
manding the tremendous height of the dome, which is 403 ft. from
pavement to lantern, and the splendid sweep of the vaulted aisles.
Notwithstanding its immensity, the dome, brilliant with the purple
and gold of mo.saics, is wonderfully light and gi^aceful. Beneath it
is the high altar, where the pope alone officiates. In front of this
altar a double flight of marble steps leads to the crypt; the balus-
trade is surmounted by eighty-nine ever-burning lamps. The tomb
said to contain a portion of the remains of St. Peter is in the crypt.
Before the bronze doors kneels the marble figure of Pope Pius VI.,
who established the Vatican museum. We made an attempt to
climb to the top of the dome, but, half way up, our strength gave
out, and we were forced to be content with a view from the great
gallery, whence the people below seemed like midgets.
In the afternoon, we dressed in such purple and fine linen as
our limited wardrobes afforded, and drove to the Villino* Aurora,
to call upon Hermon MacNeil, the sculptor, who, last year, won the
''Prixdc Roiuc"^ of America. The Villino Aurora is part of the
Ludovisi estate, which occupies the site of the magnificent gardens
of Sallust, the historian. It is situated on a low hill, reached by a
flight of steps cut in the rock and o\-ergrown with mosses and
flowers. On the ceiling of the entrance hall is a fresco by Guer-
cino. ;J: It looked to me like a very black and ugly Aurora disporting
on some heavy clouds.
We were taken into a large, airy studio connected with a
pretty suite of living rooms. A tall screen divides the room into
* A small villa.
f Prize covering the expenses of four years' study in Rome.
\ Giovanni Barbieri, an Italian artist of the i6th century, surnamed Guer-
cino, on account of a squint.
ROME i6i
two parts. In one, the artist models his red men, and in the other,
his wife, who is also a sculptor, molds her lifelike portrait busts.
Several finished statuettes were shown, as well as some in progress.
A splendid specimen of an Indian snake-dancer running at full
speed, his hair and the fringes of his moccasins flying in the wind,
suggests as a title, "An American Mercury." Another, not less
powerful in execution, is called "Primitive Music," and represents
a warrior, half kneeling, half seated, making music with his lips
through his crooked elbow, while two chubbv Indian children are
enjoying the weird melody. A clay model of a chafing dish, to
be cast in bronze, the work of Mrs. MacNeil, is a delight to the
eye. The rim, intended to support the kettle, or pan, is upheld
by three supple female forms, their toes pressed together, their
bodies bent backward apparentlv to avoid tlie fire beneath, and
their heads turned to one side, as if the heat of the kettle were too
great. It was so natural, so Pompeian in conception, that I gave a
cry of satisfaction at the cleverness which combined such a classic
design with utility. After gathering a bunch of roses from the
garden, we returned to our little room to rest and think over our
pleasant day and the happiness of meeting friends so far from home.
It requires a stretch of imagination to believe that the Vatican
is the largest and most beautiful palace in the world, for, as one
views it from the piazza of St. Peter's, its appearance is that of a
succession of yellow barracks. Nevertheless, the magnificence of
the interior amply compensates for the ugly exterior. Entering the
colonnade on the right, we found ourselves before an entrance
patrolled by Swiss guards in gorgeous costumes of red, yellow and
black. There, we caught a glimpse of a marble staircase of vast
proportions. After procuring from an officer a permit to visit the
picture galleries, we mounted the stairs and proceeded at once to
the Sistine Chapel, world-renowned because of Michael Angelo's
stupendous frescoes of the "Creation," upon the ceiling, and the
' ' Last Judgment, " upon the altar wall.
This man of genius was born March 6th, 1475, in the town of
Caprese, Italy. In spite of many vicissitudes, he became the
greatest sculptor since the days of Phidias. When Pope Julius II.
commissioned him to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, he
l62
ROME
refused, sayin^ that he had had httle training in color, and
that sculpture, not painting, was his vocation. But the Pope was
determined, and at last succeeded in overcoming his obstinac}'.
The world owes him a debt of gratitude for his persistence. For
four long years Michael Angelo shut himself up in the chapel, like
a hermit in his cave, and with a candle fastened to his paper
helmet, much of the
time lying flat on his
back on a scaffolding,
]nirsued his labors.
He was his own mason,
his own assistant.
Fresco, in those days,
\w e a n t )~) a i n t i n g o n
fresh plaster, the col-
ors drying and fixing
as the mortar hard-
ened. Thev were used
either pure or mixed
with a little water.
The artist was obliged
to determine, in ad-
\ance, just how much
surface he could cover
in a certain number of
hours, and then lay on
the requisite amount
of plaster. The next
day, he would add a
fresh section of plaster,
^'''"" '"'"''" ^ .'-An continue painting, and
blend the lines of connection as deftly as jwssible. As the distance
from the beholder was generally great, the joinings were not visible.
My first impression of the chapel was that of a long, narrow
room with one corner divided off by a marble screen. Over the
altar at the farther end of the room the hand of a majestic figure
was raised in judgment, while a cloud of angels, with faces aflame,
164
ROME
were hurling a rising mass of the condemned back into Hades.
Above, the vaulted ceiling seemed alive with breathing humanity.
Sitting or standing, those massive figures seemed to think, speak
and move. About them were sculptured arches and columns, a
perfect maze of architecture, and yet it was all paint; only the
impressions of a mighty
brain flung on to the plas-
ter by a skillful hand.
Leaving the Sistine
Chapel, we visited the
apartments containing
the famous frescoes of
Raphael Sanzio, born at
Urbino, Italy, in 1483,
and justly named the
"Prince of Painters."
Pope Julius II. had given
the decorations into the
hands of Perugino, once
Ivaphael's master, and
an artist from Siena,
called Socloma; but the
creations of Raphael,
who assisted them, were
so much admired that
the direction of the entire
work was soon committed
td him. Four rooms were at last decorated by Raphael and his
pupils, while, at the same time, Michael Angelo was completing
his task alone, not far away, in the same palace. Of the frescoes
of Raphael, I like the "Incendio del Borgo, "* best. It was executed
solely by the master, and represents a miracle supposed to have
been performed by Pope Leo IV., who, b)- making the sign of tlic
cross, suppressed a fire which had broken out in the Borgo, a
section of the city surrounding St. Peter's. The ancient church
M.CHAEL ANGELO
* Conflagration in the Borgo.
1 66
ROME
occupies the background, and on the open balcony stands the Pope,
his first two fingers and thumb upHftcd in the conventional sign.
In the middle distance are blazing houses out of which pour fright-
ened people, all turning in appeal toward the pontiff. One woman
with fl\ing hair and garments, in the right of the foreground, is
shrieking in her excite-
ment, and }'et the big
water jar on her head is
pertectiv balanced by the
poise of her body and
the touch of her hands;
a clever bit of realism
marvellously depicted.
A youth, on the left, is
bearing a paralytic away
t r o m the d e s t r o }' i n g
Hames. In the fresco des-
ignated as the ' ' School
of Athens," Raphael's
composition* is admira-
l)ly displayed.
As we reached the
end of this suite of
rooms, a gnawing in our
vitals warned us that it
was high noon, so we
crossed the piazza and
''*^'^*^'- took luncheon at one of
the restaurants located near by, for the benefit of tourists who wish
to spend the day at the Vatican. There were a couple of Italian
priests at a table near ours and we had a good chance to see
them eat "Ze macaroni," in native style. The national dish is
served steaming hot, and often forms the entire meal. Each man
took a soup spoon in his left hand and a fork in his right, and,
holding the spoon edge downward, made it serve as a holder for
*The art of arranging groups or parts of a picture to form a symmetrical
whole.
ROME 167
the fork. He then wound on the fork enough of the macaroni for
a mouthful, and. rutting off the lianging coils with the sharp edge
of the spoon, con\-eved the portion to his mouth.
To return to the Vatican, — it would be folly to attempt to
describe its galleries, which, besides pictures and statuary, contain
vases, sarcophagi, candelabra and priceless mosaics. One might
spend days, meri'lv passing through the rooms without examining
the treasures singly. Nevertheless, I cannot resist mentioning some
of our favorites. Although many consider the "Transfiguration"
by Raphael the greatest painting in the world, I was disappointed
in it, and, personallv, find much more to admire in the "Doubting
Thomas" by Guercino.
One gallery is hung with i6th century tapestries made in
Brussels, after designs by Raphael. They make one forget all
other tapestries, so skillfully are the threads of wool, silk and gold
woven into faces, figures and draperies, where the minutest details
are carefully brought out. They were intended to cover the lower
part of the walls in the Sistine Chapel, but were stolen during
the sacking of Rome in 1527. Later, they were restored to the
\'atican. The one called "Feed my Lambs" is especiallv fine as
regards the treatment of the drapery. In passing through some of
the galleries, to reach the librarv, I noticed the figure of a satyr,
in green basalt, a rare, beautiful stone with a polish like that of
majolica.
The librarv, contained in twenty-five rooms, not including the
Great Hall, boasts 26,000 MSS. in different languages, besides
50,000 printed books. The librarian is a cardinal, who is assisted
by an under librarian and custodians. No one is permitted to
enter the rooms unaccompanied and, as visitors are taken through
them as rapidly as possible, there is little time to examine any-
thing. We would advise tourists to stud}' their French with a
strong Italian accent, if they expect to understand the guides, who,
moreover, fire their sentences as if from a cannon. We saw an
old book delightfully illustrated in water colors by Raphael; pre-
sumably, a Natural History.
The Great Hall is gorgeous with gilding and modern frescoes
portraying scenes in the lives of the popes. Upon heavily carved
ROME
169
tables, witli tops of precious marble or mosaics, are costly gifts
presented by the crowned heads of Europe to different popes.
Among the most important are two Sevres* vases, one showing a
charming background of the peculiar blue that no other manufactory
has ever been able to imitate; a pair of mammoth inkstands made
of solid blocks of rock crystal; urns of alabaster and a superb lamp
of beautifully veined
malachite upheld by
a group of gilt fig-
ures. The glass cases
ranged about the
room contain articles
such as seals, bottles,
gems, and ivorv dip-
tychs, f t a k e n from
the catacombs and
other tombs.
At an open win-
dow of the library, wc
paused to look out for
a moment upon the
extensive gardens of
the Vatican. In the
distance among the
trees is a pretty little
casino, where the
Pope spends some
time daily, in recrea-
tion. Although he is
eight3--six years old,
he is a hard worker
and lives frugally. The greater part of his income is derived from
the voluntar}' contributions of Roman Catholics throughout the
world. It is said that he keeps his money in strong boxes in his
private apartments, and that no one knows the amount that he has
APOLLO BELVEDERE
* Porcelain made at Sevres, near Paris,
f A folded writing-tablet with two leaves.
LEO XIII
ROME 171
hoarded, not for his own use, l)ut for the advancement of the
interests of the Church, after his death. lie is very fragile; his
face resembles a piece of old ivory, and only the brilliant eyes
betray the fire of the soul within. His demise may be expected at
any time, on account of his advanced age, and there is much
speculation as to his successor in office.
A curious ceremony, says a well-known writer, takes place at
the deathbed of a pope. As soon as the breath has left the body,
the chamberlain, always one of the cardinals, taps three times
upon the forehead with a silver hammer, and, at each blow, calls
loudly upon the name of the pope. If, at the third call, there is
no response, the announcement is made to the household, and then
to the world, that the pope is dead.
It is a well-known fact that the Vatican contains the finest
collection of sculpture extant, arranged in thirteen galleries, each
in itself a casket of jewels. The principal statues occupy separate
alcoves or small rooms, and the light is excellent. A gem in
marble stands in the Belvedere* of the Vatican; it is the "Apollo
Belvedere, " said to have been discovered near Porto d' Anzio, the
ancient Antium. The god is represented standing erect; the left
hand originalh- held the aegis, a shield with the head of Medusaf in
the center, with which he is supposed to be .striking terror into the
Gauls who have attacked his sanctuary at Delphi. The expression
of the face indicates that Apollo is fully conscious of his superiority
to mortals; the lips are curved proudly, and the nostrils dilated
with passion. The "Discobolus";}: by Myron, the Greek sculptor,
though badlv restored, commands immediate attention and admira-
tion. This figure, that of a lithe young Greek throwing the disc,
is the embodiment of physical grace. His toes, pressed firmly into
the earth, display the tension of the muscles as he leans lightly
forward; the right arm swings backward, and the hand holding
the disc of bronze is beautifullv modelled. The famous group of
the Laoco5n was executed by three Rhodian artists. Laocoon, a
* A small building or part of a building from which a fine view can be
obtained.
f A m}-th who had the power of turning all who looked upon her into stone.
X Disc or quoit thrower.
172 ROME
priest sworn to celibacy, was, with his two sons, condemned by
Apollo to be strangled by serpents, near the altar that he had
desecrated by a secret marriage. In his own death agony the
father seems to have forgotten the peril of his children, who cr^• in
vain for succor, their slender bodies encircled by the coils of the
reptiles whose poisoned fangs are fastened in their quivering flesh.
The sufferings of all three are represented with terrible realism.
Casts of these marbles are to be found in almost every art museum
in America.
The Vatican is connected by an underground passage with the
Castle of St. Angelo, built as a family mausoleum, in 136 A. D.,
by Hadrian. The Bridge of St. Angelo spans the yellow waters
of the Tiber, joining the Borgo, as the Vatican quarter is called, with
the main part of the city. This mausoleum, a cylinder of travertine
eighty yards in diameter, was once incrusted with marble. For
several centuries it was used as a fortress; a portion of it now
serves as a prison, and it is necessary to obtain a permit from the
military commander, in order to visit it. Our guide led us through
narrow, damp corridors, up staircases and down, until we had not
the remotest idea whether we were on a level with the ground or
far above it, as the light is admitted only through narrow slits
high up in the walls. The vault where the Roman emperors
were interred is shown, but the sarcophagi and urns have long
since disappeared. Several large rooms were fitted up, in the past,
for the popes, who, availing themselves of the secret passage from
the Vatican, took refuge in the castle, when necessary. We entered
the damp, loathsome cell where the beautiful, high-born, but ill-
fated, Beatrice Cenci is said to have been incarcerated; the torture
chamber; and, lastly, the place where the old drawbridge used to
swing out across the moat. The torture chamber is a large, square
room without windows. From the four walls, about twelve feet
from the floor, protrude heavy iron bars, each with a bunch of tow
on the end. Similar bunches soaked in oil and ignited furnished
the only light. The victims were bound, and strung up by a cord
to the bars, while the torturers burned their feet with red-hot irons.
Here, Beatrice confessed that she had been an accomplice in the
murder of the unnatural father who blighted her life.
174
ROME
In the Barbcrini Palace there is a portrait of this voung
martyr, painted b\- Guido Reni. The face is full of pathos and
the large, sad eyes haunt one with an appeal for s\mpathy.
But let us turn to brighter scenes. You will be glad to go
for a little stroll down a street of the Borgo and see the shops.
BEATRICE CENCI
Here, are sold the striped Roman scarfs and silken caps. In
windows and on sidewalks are offered reputed antiques of every
description. There are fascinating bakeshops with cakes of all sizes,
shapes and colors to suit the means of the hungry pedestrian. So
many mosaics are displayed on the counters and peddled on the
streets that one feels as if, some day, all Rome would have to be
paved with these bits of color in order to consume the stock.
The Borgo has changed since the good old days when socialistic
meetings were few. Then, a cobbler was proud of his calling and
THE LAOCOON
ROME 177
trained his sons to follow it, that successive generations woi'king
at the same trade might develop artisans that should be a credit
to the city. Then, a woman was content to spin, weave and cook,
by day, and, in the evening, fasten a rose in the folds of her neck-
erchief, to win a smile from husband or sweetheart.
When we are disposed to criticise the popes or other digni-
taries for taxing the people in order to rear enduring monuments
of architecture, it is well to remember the vast number of persons
thus furnished with work, which is the salvation of the poor. They
do not want the charity of the powerful or rich, but opportunities
for honest labor. If the rich could realize this, and would spend
their gains, instead of hoarding them for heirs to squabble over, we
should have no bankrupt countries, no hard times, and our cities
would increase in beauty as well as in size. Large sums of money
are necessary for the development of art, and one cause of its
decadence is the small demand for true works of art. Once, people
sought out and encouraged men of genius. Had it not been for
their rich patrons, we should probably never have heard of ?ilichael
Angelo or Raphael.
No city in the world is so rich as Rome in places of historic
interest, and nowhere is the fact more apparent than in the
Roman Forum. It was once the principal meeting-place of the
people, adorned with temples, triumphal arches and columns, and
surrounded by shops. Councils of state were held in its basilicas,
and orations delivered from its rostra. Processions wound along
the sacred way which crossed it near the round temple where vestal
virgins fed the flame on the altar of their goddess. A blue-coated
official guards the entrance to the Forum, and for a lira grants
the privilege of visiting the ruins so well known to every student
of Roman history.
After passing the three remaining columns of the temple of
the twin gods. Castor and Pollux, we stepped upon the pavement
of the Basilica Julia, named for Caesar's daughter. The central
part, where tribunals were held, is of African and Phrygian * mar-
bles. On close examination, circles can be seen, cut into the now
* From Phrygia in Asia Minor.
12
178
ROME
blackened pavement of the side aisles; here, the Romans amused
themselves with a game similar to draughts. Beneath one end of
the Basilica runs the Cloaca Maxima, the great sewer dating from
the time of the kings. At this point it is uncovered.
Near by, is the old rostrum which took its name from the
rostra, the beaks of ships captured in war and fastened to its base.
J" 1«^
a I
ii|fil'*4a \fliiMil»i
•I %
iiiiiilii^!"
THE COLOSSEUM
F'rom this rostrum Cicero delivered his orations, and tt) it his head
was subsequentl)- affixed; while from the one near the center of
the Forum, Mark Antony delivered his famous oration over the
body of Julius Csesar.
The great Arch of Septimius Severus is full of interest, and so
is the House of the Vestals, the virgins who played such a promi-
nent part in the religious and political life of ancient Rome. At
one end of the central court is a square cistern lined with marble;
inside, are three narrow steps which the maidens descended to fill
their jars, when the water was low. It is interesting to know that
they were permitted to use only the water which fell directly from
the clouds into reservoirs set apart for their use.
i8o ROME
Until I saw the Basilica of Constantine, I hardly appreciated
what the Roman architects of the past were capable of doing.
The span of the central hall is So ft. ; the height, 1 1 2 ft. ; so grand
is the vaulted roof that it seems the work of more than human
hands.
The view of the Palatine Hill from this point is charming.
Just beyond the ruins, on the crest of the hill, stands a modern
yellow house; a fountain, embowered in trailing vines, plays in a
niche in its facade, tumbling in a cascade to a stone basin be-
neath; the remnants of a garden balustrade decorated with j^otted
plants, and the crumbling walls of several ancient structures below,
complete the picture.
We walked down the Sacred Way to the exit and then over
to the Colosseum, which occupies the site of an artificial lake in
the gardens of Nero. Begun by Vespasian, and finished by Titus,
80 A. D., it is the largest amphitheater in the world, and takes
its present name from the colossal statue of Nero, as god of the
sun, which formerly stood near. Its completion was inaugurated
by gladiatorial combats in which many thousand wild animals were
killed. The external circumference measures 576 yds.; the long
diameter, 205 yds., the shorter, 170 yds., and the height, 156 ft.
Seats for 87,000 spectators rose in tiers from the arena and were
reached by arcades and numerous flights of steps. The front row
of seats was reserved for the emperor, his court and the vestal
virgins. The Christian Emperor Honorius, in 405 A. D. , abolished
gladiatorial contests, though fights between beasts were permitted.
It was not until the 15th century that the people began to regard
the Colosseum as a kind of quarry; from that time on, its columns
and decorations were removed and used in the construction of other
buildings. In the i8th century, Benedict XIV. consecrated it to
the blood of the martyrs that had been shed there, thus putting
a stop to the destruction
South of the Colosseum is the great Arch of Constantine,
erected to commemorate his victory over Maxentius, and his con-
version to Christianity.
We were greatly interested in the small portion of the Golden
House of Nero which was excavated in 18 13. No act of this
ROME
i8i
profligate and brutal emperor so offended the people as the build-
ing of . this extensive palace which blocked up many important
thoroughfares. The passages and rooms are damp and unwhole-
some; delicate ferns grow between the broken stones of the walls,
which are covered with green mold. In an apartment designated
as a dining-room is a large fountain-basin, and in the pavement,
ViLLA BORGHESE, ROME
the head of a Roman lady, in mosaic. The frescoes in one of the
passages were copied by Raphael.
One sunny afternoon our artist friends called for us, and we
started for the Villa Borghese. The Borghesi were among the
most powerful of the Roman nobility. Camillo Borghese assumed
the title of Paul V., when he became pope in 1605. The celebrated
Borghese collection of pictures and statuary has been removed
from the old palace in the city to the Casino of the villa, in the
suburbs. It seems a pity that this estate should be in the hands
of a receiver, but such is the melancholy fact. The public, for a
trifling fee, can now enjoy the beautiful park, where once noble
dames and cavaliers walked in seclusion. Within the gates is a
narrow track, and on it a funn}' little go-cart in the shape of a
car holding eight i:>eople, besides the driver, and drawn b\' a
I 82
ROME
donkey. When this Lilhputian vehicle begins to move, it seems
as if one were playing at street car. A short ride brought us to
the center of the grounds, dotted with summerhouses representing
ruined temples. There are pretty lakes where swans and ducks
swim about or rest in the shade of giant trees whose twisted roots
extend into the water. We had an al fresco * lunch of fresh milk
PAULINE BORGHESE
and sweet biscuit at a dairy, and then walked through groves of
magnificent evergreen oaks to the Casino.
The antiques in this museum are only copies of the originals
now in the Louvre gallery in Paris. The first object that arrests
the attention is the beautiful statue of Pauline, sister of Napoleon I.,
and wife of Prince Camillo Lodovico Borghese. She is repre-
sented as Venus, and surely the goddess herself could not have
possessed greater charms. In the room beyond, is a charming
piece of statuary by Bernini, entitled Apollo and Daphne. The
nymph, jiursued by Apollo, is just changing into a laurel tree.
* Open air.
APOLLO AND DAPHNE
i84 ROME
We saw two famous pictures by Titian, one of the c^^reatest
painters of the 15th century. He was born at Cadore, Italy, and
began to paint when a mere child, using, at first, the juices ex-
tracted from flowers. During the ninety-nine years of his life he
is said to have painted more than seven hundred pictures, and,
from his knowledge of pigments, he was styled the "master of
color. " The coloring of the two paintings in the Borghese collec-
tion is superb; only a man born with a rainbow in his soul could
have created them.
An attractive study is the head of a woman, done in silver
point by Leonardo da Vinci.* Silver point is a very old and
unique manner of drawing on a piece of prepared gray paper with
a sharp-pointed instrument of silver. A gentle pressure of the silver
point makes a light line, and a heavier stroke, a dark one. The
effect produced is peculiarly delicate.
From the Villa Borghese it is but a short drive to the Villa
Medici, formerly owned by the powerful Medici family of Florence.
Since 1801 it has been occupied by the French Academy of Art.
The ' ' Prix de Rome, " which is periodically offered by France,
enables the winner to study four years in this academy. Many
architects, sculptors and painters are at work in the studios scat-
tered about the grounds. Some of them are mere inclosures formed
by trees and hedges; here, the artist can study the human form in
brieht sunli<iht. As the student has so short a time in which to
show his mother country what he can do, he is not apt to waste
it. The exhibition now open at the villa shows the work of this
year, and some of the productions are certainly very clever.
One painter exhibits a large canvas entitled "Magdalen sees
Christ for the first time." The principal figure, draped in white,
with upturned face all aglow, stands on the landing of steps leading
up to a gloomy stone house of many stories. It is so close to its
neighbors as to lea\-e only a narrow strip of sky, about twelve
inches long, at the very top of the big picture; but it is like real
sky, so natural that it makes one wonder if there is not a slit in the
canvas. Another, the "Marriage of Flora," is in the impressionist
* Italian painter, 1452-1519.
ROME 185
style. Nude figures are disporting in a garden gay with man}-
hued blossoms. A winged god descends to claim the Queen of
Flowers, from whose blushing face a zephyr half lifts a veil. The
whole scene is quivering under the blazing sun of midday.
Of the sculpture, I considered "Pour le Drapeau "* tlie strongest
piece of work. A soldier, mortally wounded, still upholds the shat-
tered flagstaff.
The plans in the architectural exhibit are executed with deli-
cacy and neatness, the subjects being Greek temples or ruins.
The chief pleasure of the afternoon, however, was a walk through
the gardens. We called at one of the studios, and our friends
presented us to M. Lefebvre, a fourth-year "Prix de Rome" man,
engaged upon a colossal group of "Niobef and her Children." This
modern Niobe is of massive build, — such a figure as could have
borne fourteen children, — and not the girlish goddess of the ancient
sculptor. The last two of her boasted treasures lie dead before
her, the arrows of Apollo piercing their tender flesh. In agony of
mind she has sunk on one knee, and with her right hand has torn
from her childless breast the drapery, unconsciously holding it like a
shield above the sweet, dead faces of the little ones, while her head
falls back and tears gush forth from eyes destined to weep forever.
A chubby little five-year-old boy, — one of the models, — lay
asleep on some cushions where he had thrown himself after posing;
his rosy cheeks and rounded limbs betokened the best of health,
although he is a professional and spends most of his days in a
state of nature.
Lefebvre is a little fellow with a dark face and bright, rest-
less eyes. As he moved about his creation, telling us of the vex-
ations and the difficulties he had experienced in arranging the
figures in a satisfactory and symmetrical group, it was evident that
his whole soul was in his art.
Naturally, our visit to this villa of the Medici recalled to mind
the Cardinal Giovanni, who took the name of Leo X. when he
became pope in 15 13, and who was one of the greatest patrons of
* For the flag.
f Apollo slew the fourteen children of Niobe, who scoffed at his mother
because she had only two.
ROME
187
art and literature Rome ever knew. To him Raphael owed much
of his success. By the sale of indulgences,* in the year 15 17, Leo
brought about his head that mighty storm which cleared the air
for so many thinking minds, — the storm of the Reformation, a term
almost synonymous with the orator and preacher, Martin Luther.
A centur\' later, Rt)me was governed by that craftv old pontiff.
Innocent X., whose wonderful portrait by the Spanish master,
Velasquez, is in the Doria Palace. This artist is considered by
many to be the greatest portrait painter who has ever lived. It
ST. PETER'S FROM THE PINCIAN HILL
would be difficult to imagine anything more magnificent than the
treatment of the pope's white-robed figure against the crimson
velvet of the chair, placed in front of a curtain of the same texture
and hue. Searching, twinkling eyes light up the shrewd face; a
thm veil of chin whiskers shows the florid skin beneath. The
flexible, tapering Angers of the delicate hands tell their own tale of
diplomac}^ and hypocrisy. By the way, it is an interesting fact,
that in the portraits of persons of noble descent the fingers are
always represented as tapering; an indication of generations of men
and women who have performed no manual labor.
For centuries it has been the custom of fashionable Romans
* Absolution from the penances of the church.
i88
ROME
to drive to the Pincian and down the Corso, from four to seven
o'clock on pleasant afternoons. The Pincian Hill takes its name
from the palace of the Pincii family, which once stood on its
summit. In the early part of the first century B. C, it was covered
with the splendid gardens of the Roman general, Lucullus. Fine
drives wind under
the trees, past
fountains and be-
tween long rows
of marble pedes-
tals crowned by
the busts of noble
Romans. Some
of the faces have
been mutilated in
times of war, but
their dilapidated
appearance does
not detract from
the fascination of
the place. The
most enchanting
views are to be
obtained from this
height, especially
at sunset; then,
the dome of St.
Peter's looks like
a great golden
bowl, inverted,
and all the sur-
rounding hills are
UMBERTO. KING OF ITALY bathcd \X\ glory.
A military band gives a concert several times a week, during the
driving hours, when one may often see King Umberto and Queen
Margherita.
We had the privilege of passing the royal carriages, with their
ROME
scarlet liveries, twice the first evening we were on the Pincian.
Since the time of the attempt upon the King's life, several years
ago, the sovereigns have not driven together. The King is a
handsome man of large frame, though not very tall, and has
piercing eyes, snow-white hair and heavy, long mustaches curled
up at the corners.
He is always ac-
companied by an
officer of his house-
hold, and, wher-
ever he goes, is
greeted with
cheers and un-
covered heads.
These salutations
he returns in the
most cordial man-
ner. It is beauti-
ful to see the
Queen when she
passes the King
on the afternoon
d r i \- e. As the
equipage of the
King approaches,
Margherita rises
from her seat
slowly and stead-
ily and gravely
bends her grace-
ful for m , and
then, as slowly,
resumes her place. margherita, queen of italy
They are said to detest pomp and display of any kind; both are
industrious and charitable, and, above all, devoted to each other.
The hour before dinner they spend together, and whoever happens
to come then, on business or pleasure, to see the King, must wait.
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ROME
Their onl)- child, Vittorio Emanuele, Prince of Naples, is not robust
physically, and some think him mcntall}' inferior to his parents.
Great bitterness exists in Rome between the church and the
state. Pope Leo XIII. not acknowledging the supremacy of the
King in temporal aiifairs. The city seems on the eve of a financial
crisis, so much of her wealth having been exhausted in extensive
speculations which have turned out badlv. The poor grow yearly
DRIVE ON THE PIKCIAN, ROME
more and more helpless. The pride of the papal party will never
bend, and when the crash comes, it will be found, like Chaiie-
magne in his tomb, robed in state and with scepter in hand.
The royal palace is on the; Quirinal Hill and has been the
residence of the King since the taking of Rome in 1870. The
grand drawing-room is hung with Gobelin tapestries of unusual size
and beauty. A full length portrait of Vittorio Emanuele II., father
of the present King, faces the crimson-canopied throne in one of
ROME 191
the state apartments. The walls of the suites of rooms are covered
with satin damask in different colors, shading from light to dark,
with furniture to match. An oil painting of the Queen, in full
court costume and wearing her famous necklace of pearls, hangs
in one of the reception rooms. She is very fond of these gems,
as " jMargherita" means a pearl, and, each year, her husband adds
to the necklace, which is so long, now, that the lower strand reaches
below her waist.
After our drive on the Pincian, we joined the procession on the
Corso, thus named from the races that once took place there during
the Carnival. This thoroughfare is very narrow, and here the horses
slacken their pace and the occupants of carriages exchange greet-
ings and the latest gossip, or draw up to the Cafte di Roma, or
Peroni's, for an ice. Little tables seating four are placed in front
of the caffc, where the most delicious creams and ices are served.
At Peroni's there is a long counter covered with fancy cakes; each
person takes a plate, makes his own selection and carries it to his
table. After the refreshments are finished, the waiter asks how
many cakes one has eaten, and the bill is settled accordingly.
Speaking of tables, reminds me of home, and how hungry I am for
an American dish; positively, a baked potato and some creamed
codfish, plebeian as they are, would seem food "fit for the gods."
Though it was raining "cats and dogs, " we went to three churches
the first Sunday after our arrival. It is pleasant to attend service,
and examine the building, later. Early mass found us at Santa
Maria Maggiore, so called as it is the largest of the eight v Roman
churches dedicated to the Virgin. The high altar is a great sar-
cophagus of porphyry, which the Romans say contains the remains
of St. Matthew, but, as the cathedral at Salerno also claims them,
one is torn between conflicting opinions.
A drive of one and a half miles brought us to Santa Croce
in Gerusalemme, one of the seven pilgrimage churches, erected by
St. Helena, who is said to have discovered the true cross. The
relics of the cross are kept here and exhibited annually, on May 3rd.
I wish you could have seen the faith in the rapt faces of the
people, when the relics were held aloft by the bishop! You would
have been apt to think. What does it matter, whether these frag-
192 ROME
nients of wood be true or false, so long as the souls of the masses
are lifted above the dead level of everyday life and they are made
to feel something of the Divine Spirit within? The ceremony was
impressive. The procession of priests headed by the bishop left
the high altar, filed through a side door, and a few moments later
appeared in the gallery half way up to the roof. As each relic,
inclosed in a case of glass and gold, was handed to the bishop, he
reverently kissed it and passed it to the priest next in rank, when
it was again saluted; the choir, meanwhile, chanting its glory.
A group of peasants from the Campagna were a picture as
they knelt together. The oldest, a man probably seventy years
of age, wore a sleeveless coat of white lambskin over his home-
spun suit; a younger man, presumably his son, with a fine Italian
countenance reminding me of the portraits of Garibaldi, held a
dear little boy about six years of age, by the hand. The little
fellow was clothed in velveteen trousers and round jacket, his little
shirt open at the throat and a soft Alpine hat in his fat fingers.
He had the round eyes and curly dark hair often seen in the chil-
dren playing about the Piazza di Spagna, while waiting for engage-
ments to pose as models for artists. The mother, lugging a sleeping
baby, had found, apparently, neither time nor inclination to deck
herself in holiday garb; even the handkerchief tied under her chin
was old and faded.
Would you like to know what we had for our Sunday dinner?
Well, there was a genuine Italian dish called "Cervello d'oro, "*
which is calves' brains made up in little yellow balls and fried in
oil; this, with chops, potatoes, peas, rolls and a fruit salad, cost
just forty cents apiec(> in our mone}'. Not bad, was it? The water
seems to be healthful, though it tastes a little of lime, and we drink
it in preference to the native wines, which are generally used.
The church of St. John Lateran, the princijial one in Rome
after the time of Constantine the Great, and before the prominence
of St. Peter's, belongs, with the Vatican, to the Pope. A most
enchanting spot is the cloister of the old Benedictine monastery
connected with the cluurli. The court is filled with beautiful flow-
* Brains of gold.
ROME 193
ers and in the center is a sculptured well-curb, which the sacristan
affirms was the one on which the Saviour sat while talking with the
woman of Samaria. Slender columns of marble beautifully veined
form the colonnade surrounding the court; some of them show what
used to be called Cosmato* work, the flutings of the columns being
filled with mosaic patterns of richly stained glass and minute pieces
of precious marbles and minerals.
The Lateran Palace was the usual residence for those occupy-
ing the papal throne, before the seat of the pontifical government
was removed to Avignon, France, in 1309. After Gregor}' XL
returned to Italy in 1377, the Pope made the Vatican his head-
quarters. Pope Gregory XVI. in 1843 set aside the Lateran Palace
for a museum of antiquities.
The must magnificent palace that we have yet seen is that of
the ancient family of the Colonna, a name derived from the same
Latin word as our column. It has been degraded by some un-
worth}- descendants, one of whom not long ago married a wealthy
American girl, and treated her so badlv that she was obliged to
sue for a divorce. When you remember that Pope Martin V. began
this palace in 141 7, on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, and
that in 1620 it was rebuilt and transformed into a stronghold, you
will not wonder at the pride which the Romans feel in the noble
structure. The design of the column is everywhere introduced.
In the center is a great circular court; large windows admit plenty
of light to the spacious halls with their costly inlaid floors. A
passage supported by arches spanning the street connects the second
floor with a garden, where roses and azalias run riot.
Imbedded in one of the steps leading from the lower part of
the Grand Gallery to the upper there is a cannon ball, a relic of
the bombardment of 1849. Upon the ceiling a fresco of the " Battle
of Lepanto " shows the hero Marcantonio Colonna, who distin-
guished himself in the conflict. The walls are faced with mirrors
decorated with genii and exquisite garlands of flowers, while, upon
the elaborately gilded woodwork, figures are carved in high relief.
There is a portrait of Vittoria Colonna in the palace. She
* A name derived from two members of a familv privileged to make it.
MOSES
JiOMR 195
was the noble woman that Michael Angelo so loved and revered.
We wonder, as we look on the placid, uninteresting face, what
qualities she could have possessed, to inspire such a passion in the
breast of a man who could create so sublime a work as the statue
of Moses.
In the room used on the occasion of papal visits, a fine portrait
of the present pontiff, Leo XIII., hangs over the throne which
is turned to the wall, signifying that it is intended for his ex-
clusive use.
The Palatine is the hill whereon Romulus and Remusf were
found by the shepherd Faustulus. The ancient city of Roma
Quadrataf was built here, and fragments of its walls have been
discovered. During the Republican period, private dwellings graced
its slopes, and later it was the seat of the emperors. Augustus
was born here, and, after the battle of Actium, nearly covered the
hill with his magnificent palace. He was reigning at the time of
the birth ot Christ. Tiberius built an extensive mansion opposite
to that of his predecessor, but the extravagant Nero found this
hill of the kings altogether too small for him, ami so built his
Golden House u]ion the b^s(|uilinr, whence the gardens extended to
the Palatine.
As we mounted the hill, to the right we found a flight of
wooden steps leading to a grove of fine oaks, on the site of the
Palace of Tiberius, beyond which are the remains of the house of
Livia. She was a Roman lady who divorced her first husband,
the father of Tiberius, in order to marry Augustus. The walls
are decorated with garlands of fiowers and fruit still in good con-
dition.
The most interesting part of the ruins is the palace of the
Flavian emperors. The tablininn used as a throne-room is 39 by
49 yds. in dimensions, and contains, besides the alcove where the
throne stood, six side niches with huge pedestals, once supporting
statues. Beyond is the peristyle, a large garden, once surrounded
by a colonnade; upon this opened the triclinium, where .jhe diners
reclined on couches running around a table, often arranged in the
* Reputed founders of Rome.
I Square Rome.
196
ROME
form of a hollow square, minus one side; here we could see a large
part of the porphyry pavement. Brick stamps bearing the name
of Theodoric have been found here, and this reminds me that in
many of the ancient houses, pieces of terra cotta and tiles formerly
used in pavements bear stamps and trade-marks which plainly
show that some
one had a mo-
nopoly in the bus-
iness.
It seems that
wealthy Romans
gave their slaves
some education,
for at the edge of
the hill is the
Pjedagogium, or
schoolhouse, built
especially for
those of the im-
perial household.
On the walls are
sketches made by
the stylus, which,
though they are
indistinct, still
prove that "boys
will be boys. "
Fro m t h e
Palatine we drove
up the Janiculum
I till to the eques-
trian statue ot
Garibaldi, a co-
lossal affair in bronze, and then through the grounds of the Villa
Doria Pamphilj, the most extensive in Rome, to the Forum of
Trajan. Imagine a column of pure marble 87 ft. high; place it on
a pedestal and crown it by a statue, making the total height 147 ft. ;
FORUM OF TRAJAN
ROME
197
conceive 2,500 human figures and half as many animals carved
upon It, and you will have something of an idea how that wonder
of wonders, the Column of Trajan, appears. It was erected to
commemorate Trajan's victory over the Dacians. The l)od_\- of the
emperor was interred beneath the base.
An important feature of Roman life was the bath, and prob-
ably the most magnificent baths ever constructed were those built
THE GATE OF SAN SEBASTIANO
by the Emperor Caracalla. They accommodated 1,600 bathers at
one time. From the ruins one can obtain only a faint conception
of what they once were. The bather first visited the fcpidariiivi,
a vapor bath similar to the Russian bath. Here he remained for
a short time; then, entered the caldariitiu or hot water bath, where
he was rubbed by slaves; he then finished by a cold plunge in the
frigidarium. A gymnasium, library and art gallery were adjuncts
of these baths, which were the rendezvous of fashionable Romans,
who often transacted important business while enjoying their daily
anointing. The Farnese Hercules and Bull that we saw in the
museum at Naples were both found in these baths.
igS
ROME
The Appian Way, the famous mihtary road begun by Appius
Claudius Caecus in 312 B. C. , ultimately connected Rome and Brin-
disi. Constructed of square stones fitted together and laid upon a
st)lid foundation, it was flanked by tombs. How many triumphal
jirocessions have moved along this histt)ric way ! How many weary
prisoners have dragged their fettered limbs over this road! Only
the stones could tell, and they are voiceless; but, in fancy, we see
the captives, among whom St. Paul is perhaps the best known to us.
On one of our drives, we passed under the old gate of San
Sebastiano nncl followed the Appian Way for some distance be-
APPIAN WAY AND RUINS OF AQUEDUCT
tween the high walls of vineyards. At last we obtained a sight
of the Campagna, and the arches of the Claudian aqueduct which
brought water to Ivome from the neighborhood of Subiaco, forty-
two miles away.
Abiiut a mile and a quarter from the gate are the Catacombs
of St. Calixtus, dating from the 4th century. Leaving the carriage,
we walked up a slope into an old garden, where a small brick
cottage serves as a kind of office for the Trappist monks who have
charge of the catacombs. There, one pays a lira and receives a
candle. Our guide, a German monk, speaking English perfectly,
ROME 199
as well as French, Latin and Greek, was the jolliest old • ellow
imaginable. In company with several other tourists we entered a
low hut and started down a staircase, into the blackness of the
earth below. The monk looked back over his shoulder and with
a merry twinkle in his eyes asked if we were afraid. Although
our knees felt rather shak3^ we assured him that we were as "brave
as lions, " and, with a chuckle, he led us down, down, into a laby-
rinth of subterranean passages, from which we wondered if we
should ever emerge. Our tapers were like glow-worms in the dark-
ness; now and then we could hear voices and then suddenly would
come upon another party, their faces appearing ghastly in the
weird light. History tells us that these Christian, underground
burial places were first known to exist in the 2nd centur}-, and that
the custom of thus disposing of the dead was abandoned in the
5th century. The walls of the passages were hollowed out to form
shelves, where the bodies were laid in rows, arranged like berths
in a ship. When all the shelves in a passage were filled, it was
excavated to twice its original depth, and another row of tombs
was placed below the first, and so on, until there were several
tiers. These grewsome galleries were crossed by others and con-
nected by steps cut in the rock. Vast areas were thus undermined.
The lowest estimate of the length ot the passages in the forty
catacombs is 350 miles.
We visited three tiers, as well as the chapels frequented by
the persecuted Christians, where, with their dead beside them,
they held the religious services which they dared not conduct above
ground. In the wall beside some of the tombs, glass vials are
stuck in the cement; these, the monk informed us, once held blood,
showing that the occupant had died a martyr's death. W^e all
know that the old Roman laws compelled the restoration of bodies,
not devoured bv wild beasts, or burned, to the friends of the de-
parted; thus the remains of our Saviour were given up by Pilate
to Joseph of Arimathsea. Many of the chapels of the wealthier
class show traces of frescoes, marble pillars and cornices. As we
went along, the guide explained the symbols carved on the tombs;
for instance: the fish symbolizes Christ; the palm branch, eternal
life; the dove, immortahty. Roman lamps, half buried in the
mortar, were formerly used for lighting the galleries.
ROME
The empt}- tomb of St. Cecilia was hung with wreaths brought
by several young girls, who had received their first communion in
front of it, the day before. The saint's body was removed in 1821
to the church erected in her honor, where, beneath the high altar,
is her marble statue b\' Maderna. Slie is represented lying upon
her side, with her knees drawn up, as her body was found in th"t
position in the catacombs. Legend relates that she was a Roman
lady of high birth and wealth, who in her youth became a Christian,
and took a vow of perpetual
virginity. Although compelled
by her parents to marry a pagan
by the name of Valerian, she did
not break her vow of chastity.
Her husband, with a number cf
others, was converted by her,
and all were martyred on ac-
count t)f their belief. It is said
that Cecilia sang the praises of
the Lord to the accompaniment
of musical instruments and,
ever since, has been patroness
of Music.
\Vc were amused by the
dry wit of the old monk, who
tried to keep up our spirits,
while showing us dismal ob-
jects. He saw a party of
FRESCO, ST. CECILIA Frenchmcn in a gallery 'that
we had not inspected, and, with a comical glance, started in their
direction, saying: — "Let us go and drive out the French." When
we recollected that he was a German, the humor of the remark
struck us with the greater force.
In strong contrast to the gloom of the catacombs is the
sequestered Protestant cemetery, where many noted men sleep, and
the heart of the English poet, Shelley, is buried; his body was
cremated on the shores of the Bay of Spezia. In the adjoining
burying ground lies John Keats, whose grave is hidden by ivy and
202
ROME
purple violets. This writer of sweet thoughts died in one of tlie
houses beside the great Scala or flight of steps which is one of the
sights of Rome, and leads from the Piazza di Spagna to the Spanish
Embassy, above.
Yesterday morning found us at the Pantheon, a circular build-
ing founded by Agrippa, son-in-law of Augustus, in 27 B. C. It is
the only ancient edifice in Rome with walls and roof intact. The
original pavement is six feet below the present one, which was
restored by Hadrian; the brick walls, 20 ft. thick, were once faced
PROTESTANT CEMETERY, ROME
with marble and stucco. Passing through a lofty jxntico, we entered
a circular room lighted entirely from an aperture in the apex of
the tremendous dome (140 ft. in height and diameter), formerly
covered with bronze. We wondered what protected the fine pave-
ment inlaid in parti-colored marbles, when rain tell. Investigation
showed that under the aperture the pavement was pierced with
holes, and thus the water is carried off into the cisterns below, for
the Pantheon, now a church, originally formed part of the baths
of Agrippa. In 609 A. D., the building was consecrated to the
Virgin.
ROME
20'!
Among the tombs on the left o{ the liigh altar is that of
Rai)hael; to the right, that of Vittorio Emanuele II., the "Father
of his country."
The American consul had secured us admission for to-day to
the Camera dei Deputati,* where Parliament is now in session.
We found it an unpretentious assembly room arranged in amphi-
theater form, and decorated in a quiet dark blue. Small writing
desks are attached to the backs of the members' seats, which rise in
THE PANTHEON, ROME
tiers from the platform. The Ko)-alists, dubbed the "Extreme
Right," occupy the right of the chamber; the Socialists, the "Ex-
treme Left," sit upon the left, while in the space between them are
those less pronounced in their views. We counted 528 chairs on
the floor, the members' part of the house. A wide gallery for visitors
runs around three sides of the chamber. The members wore busi-
ness suits, and were quite as informal in their proceedings as our
Cliamber of Deputies.
ROME 205
own senators, which is saying considerable. Down in front of the
rostrum is a wide raihng, before which each member passes to vote,
dropping a white or blaclv ball into a hollow pillar with curved open
top. President ^'illa opened the session by ringing a silver bell;
then the clerk called the roll, which took just three-quarters of an
hour; in the meantime, a vote was taken on the question before
the house concerning the appropriation of more money for the war
in Abyssinia. We had the pleasure of seeing the Marquis di Ru-
dini, Prime Minister, and several other notabilities.
Probably no picture is better known in America through copies
than the "Aurora," by Guido Reni, a fresco on the ceiling of a casino
connected with the Rospigliosi palace. The room, when we entered,
was filled with the easels of artists who were copying this popular
subject. But no one has ever done justice to the lithe forms of the
maidens representing the Hours, who circle about the flying chariot
of the Sun god; nor, to the graceful, sweeping draperies of Aurora,
as she floats on clouds in advance of the pursuing Apollo, whose
eolden hair seems the sun itself, so refulgent is it witli color.
We were invited to five o'clock tea at the Villino Aurora this
afternoon, and, on our way, called at the studio of tlie American
.sculptor, Franklin Simmonds, who, tor many jears, has lived in
Rome. Although past middle lite, he is as active as ever and is
now modelling an ecpiestrian statue of General Logan. The studio
was filled with examples of his skill, and we went away, not only
charmed by the cordiality of the man, but enthusiastic over his
creations. Penelope,* a beautiful female figure in a sitting posture,
with a look of waiting in her eyes, is simph" perfect in delicacy
of finish.
We sipped our tea under the branches of a mammoth ilex tree,
in the midst of rose bushes heavy with bloom, from palest pink to
deepest red. Mrs. MacNeil, in her Empire gown, with a \-ellow
rose tucked in her brown hair, looked bewitching as she sat behind
the dainty blue and gold cups.
For the past half hour, I have been leaning out of my window
in true Italian fashion, listening to a street band. A couple of
* Wife of Ulvsses.
ROME 267
flower girls, in their short skirts, velvet bodices, full waists, guimpes
and flat headdresses, were standing on the corner, with l^askets of
roses on their heads. One of them, who had cvidentlv a weak-
ness for flirtation, offered a cabman, stationed near b}', a rose.
This excited the playful jealousy of several young workingmen in
a shop on the corner, who came out and teased her for another
rose. When she refused, they pulled her sleeves and tipped up
her chin, looking into her face and, doubtless, saying the most
flattering things. It was of no avail; she airily tossed her head,
readjusted her basket and disappeared. The fortunate possessor of
the rosebud placed it in his buttonhole and strutted back to his
throne on the box of the cab. A man, with milk in long-necked
glass bottles almost covered with wickerwork and corked with a
crisp lettuce leaf, is jogging along the street; and a boy, selling
little nutcakes with a dab of chocolate on top, is on a neigh-
boring doorstep.
The costumes of the peasants are all picturesque, though often
in need of repairs. The girls wear bodices of velvet or cloth made
exactly like a corset. Inside the front steels a narrow board is
worn, to prevent them from bending. It is the fashion for the
suitors, or male friends of the young women, to carve their names
and, if they desire, some appropriate device, such as a heart, on
this- board, which is easily removed, being between the bodice and
the full inside waist.
It is said that even educated Italians are superstitious. An
American lady, who has moved in society here, tells us that thev
are firm believers in the Evil Eye, and that a Roman ladv of
position and wealth has been ostracized sociallv, because misfortune
or accident overtook some member of several families, while she
was visiting them. For that reason, she has been accused of
having the Evil Eye.
Rome is a perfect garden of flowers; they are sold on nearly
every street corner, and venders walk about, laden with bouquets
and baskets of the richest blossoms. Little children sell clusters
of poppies, nearly as large as themselves, for half a lira. Yes-
terday, when Mrs. M. returned from a shopping tour, she not
only brought some Roman scarfs and bags in gay stripes, but a
2o8 nOME
bunch of pansies with stems fully twelve inches long. Several boys
had asked to carry it for her, so you can imagine the size. I
received some unpublished verses from Carolyn Waldo Wade of
Buffalo, the other day. They were written on receipt of a box of
Roman pansies sent by a friend here, and are so dainty I am
ROMAN TOMB
sure )-ou will enjov them; besides, they add the finishing touch to
a letter from ' ' Roma. " How we wish every one would call the
foreign cities by their names, and not anglicize them. How musical
are Napoli, Roma, Milano, when spoken in the solt Italian tongue!
But it is late, dear friend, and I must sa\' good night.
PANSIES FROM KOMI-:.
From Roma; boavini; on their loaves
A dream of soft Italian days.
Of ancient gardens, winding ways,
And peasants bearing poppy sheaves.
From Roma; as I touch the flowers,
I hear a chime of laughter sweet,
And fauns and nymphs, with flying feet,
Are dancing out the golden liours.
From Roma; on each petal lies
The purple splendor of old years;
ROME
The royal sorrow of the tears
That dim lier sad immortal eyes.
Fair Roma; with her marbles cold,
Her fallen goddesses, and gods,
Her blossoming, historic sods,
And strange traditions, weird and old
Great Roma; throned eternally
Upon her hills; imperial, high.
Long miles from that fair azure sk\-
These blossoms sweet smile no at me.
2og
■14
CHAPTER XVI
PISA AND FLORENCE
l^R first view of the Leaning Tower at Pisa, on the
banks of the Arno, was a complete surprise, for we
had not in our most imaginative moods conceived any-
thing so airy and fragile as it seems to be, when
viewed from a distance. As one approaches, however,
the structure changes from a castle of carved ivory to one
of marble, and, despite the fact that it leans to one side
thirteen feet out of the perpendicular, it looks substantial enough to
treble the 722 years of its existence. Many theories have been
advanced as to the cause of this peculiarity. Now, it is generally
believed that one side sunk during the two centuries which elapsed
between the laying of its foundation and its completion. It is said
that the upper stories, of the eight which compose it, were added
in a curved line in order to balance the whole. This Campanile,*
the magnificent cathedral, Campo Santof and Baptistery form a
remarkable group on the outskirts of the city.
The Baptistery contains the most famous pulpit in the world,
the work of Niccolo Pisano.;}; It is of marble exquisitely carved,
and upheld by columns which rest on the backs of lions.
Pisa, now six miles from the sea, was once one of the most
important ports in Italv, but, for centuries, the rain falling upon
the barren hill slopes and mixing with the clay has formed a fluid
paste that has silted up the harbor. This disaster might have been
averted, if the Pisans had not lost strength through protracted
struggles with rival cities. At present, it is a quiet town with fine
quays on both banks of the river, and boasts a University men-
* Bell tower,
f Burial ground.
J Nicholas of Pisa, an artist of the 13th century.
21 1
212 PISA AND FLORENCE
tioned as early as the 12th century, where Gahleo, the celebrated
philosopher and astronomer, was educated and afterward taught.
With Galileo "the science of motion began to exist." He did
not inwnt the telescope, but the report of its invention by the
Greek scholar, Deniiscianus, set him to work to imitate it; the
^result, after several minor attemj'jts, was an instrument of thirty-
two magnifying power which was used all over Europe. Galileo
made his first experiments in gravitation at the top of the Leaning
Tower and there proved to the students of the university that a
heavy body does not always fall with a velocity in proportion to
its weight. After living seventy years in prosperity and receiving
the highest honors, he incurred the displeasure of the Church, and
as a result retired from public life. He died at Florence in 1642.
Our route from Pisa skirted the smiling valley of the Arno
, rich with farms and gardens, and led us to beautiful Florence, the
Queen of Tuscany. Her fair head is crowned by a diadem of
glorious workmanship, set with priceless gems of poetry and art,
and the secrets of a line of men whose patronage could raise the
humblest to affluence and power are locked within her breast.
It was a thrilling moment when we first stood on the Piazza
della Signoria, * a splendid square in the heart of the city. Upon
one side is the Palazzo Vccchio, the old palace which was the
seat of government, and, subsequentiv, the residence of the Aledici.
Close b)', is the Uffizi, once a citv hall, now containing one
of the most celebrated art galleries in the world. It forms three
sides of a rectangle and porticoes adorned with statues of great
Tuscans face the central court. At the end overlooking the river,
the upper stories rest upon arches through which an enchanting
vista of the mountains is obtained.
Across one end of the Uflizi, facing the jiiazza is an open
vaulted hall called the Loggia dei Lanzi since the time of the
Grand Duke Cosimo I., who posted his German lancers here. The
aristocracv sat in this loggia during state ceremonies and the people
assembled in the square. It is now a sculpture gallery and con-
tains several noted groups, among them the ' ' Perseus with the
* The square of the government.
LEANING TOWER, PISA
214. PISA AND FLORENCE
head of Medusa," by Benvenuto Cellini, who was not only a
sculptor, but the greatest goldsmith that has ever lived.
The Piazza della Signoria has always been the forum of Flor-
ence, the meeting-place of the people, where Aristocracy hob-
nobbed with Genius and Art walked arm in arm with Literature.
Its pavement has echoed to the tread of the immortal Dante,
whose name is written across the pages of Italy's history, in letters of
fire. Here, in the early evening, he loved to greet his friend Giotto,
once a shepherd lad, who by the force of his talents became one
of the greatest architects and painters of his time. It was here
that Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci and their friends chatted
over the latest news from Rome, and, here, Savonarola, the Domin-
ican monk, was burned at the stake.
Girolamo Savonarola, born at Ferrara in 1452, accepted a
mission to preach in the Convent of San Marco in Florence, when
the power of Lorenzo de' Medici, surnamed the Magnificent, was
at its zenith. This monk of simple and devout habits was horri-
fied at the wanton luxury, immorality and spiritual tor}X)r of the
Florentines, whom at that time he tried in vain to convert. Nine
years later he preached his first sermon in the cathedral, which,
vast as it was, often failed to accommodate the numbers who flocked
to hear his prophetic words. Gne of his most striking prophecies
related to the di-ath of Lorenzo, who, when dying, sent for the
great preacher to absolve hmi from his sins. Savonarola consented
to do this, if Lorenzo would liberate Florence from the power of
the Medici; upon his refusal, the priest left his bedside, and the
ruler died unshriven.
Savonarola's influence became so great that after a revolution,
when the city was left without a government, he became the law-
giver. A new republic was established; all Florence was purified
for the nonce by the influence of this ruler without a title. A
garden of pleasure was changed to a monastery. The people,
awakened by the fiery denunciations of the preacher, ceased their
revels, burned their fine garments, their ornaments, and entered
upon a life of the strictest piety and abstinence. Nevertheless, like
all sudden reforms, this was only on the surface, for such severe
discipline soon became irksome. The Pope became jealous of
PIS. I AND FLORENCE 215
Savonarola and, terrified by the effect of his sermons on the people,
began to plot against him. The prophet was invited to Rome, and
the rank of cardinal was offered him. He refused it with scorn
and, thereafter, paid no heed to the summons of the Pope. As a
result of his independence, he was excommunicated in 1497, but
refused to accept the decree, maintaining that Alexander was not
a true pope, and maintaining that his mission was a divine one.
But the shadow of a tragic fate was already impending. In April,
1498, Savonarola and two of his followers were arrested, tried by
malicious judges, and imprisoned for forty days, the great preacher
in a cell in the lofty tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. The prisoners
were subjected to the most awful tortures and though, while in
agony, Savonarola promised to recant, as soon as he was unbound,
calling upon God to forgive him for his weakness, he would repeat
his former statements. Upon the morning of May 23rd, 1498,
the three monks were hung from a cross erected on the piazza;
the torch was applied to the fagots beneath, and the martyrs were
consumed in the flames. It was a black day for Florence, the
blot upon whose escutcheon can never be effaced.
In Savonarola's cell at the monastery of San Marco, we saw
the vestments he had worn, the rosary he had carried, while from
the wall looked down the stern, splendid face, as painted by Fra
Bartolommeo.*
We visited the Palazzo Vecchio whence Savonarola was taken
to his death. Crossing a spacious court around which were the
armorial bearings of different tactions that have ruled Florence, we
mounted the grand staircase and entered the Hall of the Five
Hundred, where the Great Council and Upper Council of the city
sat, in turn. At one end are statues of the Medici; at the other,
as if by the irony of fate, a colossal figure of Savonarola.
The Duomo, as the cathedral of Florence is usually called,
was begun in 1294, and finished, aside from the facade, in 1462.
It is of glistening white miarble, banded with vcrdc antico.-\ The
beautiful bell tower, designed by Giotto, which stands beside it, is
so lofty that it might well be the ladder of Jacob's dream. Ruskiii
* A monk at San Marco, 1469-1517.
■j" Antique green marble.
PALAZZO VECCHIO AND UFFIZI GALLERY, FLOKL;vk.E
p ■■ ' - ■■^a^aga.i.i&g/jgaa:
2l8
PISA AND FLORENCE
declares that "the characteristics of power and l^eauty exist in their
highest relative degrees in the Campanile of Giotto." Faced with
marble like the cathedral, its charm is enhanced by rich reliefs and
priceless statues.
Opposite to the Duomo is the Baptistery, where all Roman
SAVONAROLA
Catholic children born m Florence are baptized. This structure is
noted for its bronze doors, the work of Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo
Ghiberti. These men combined in their masterpieces the breadth
of the sculptor and the delicacy and finish of the goldsmith. The
tiny figures that appear in the designs are models of technique.
A door by Ghiberti represents ten scenes from the Old Testament,
each treated with such clear understanding of the incident, and
CATHEDRAL AND GIOTTO'S TOWER, FLORENCE
220
PIRA AND FLORENCE
with such insii^ht into the character of the personages, as to make
the artist a true preacher. No oratory can affect mankind as such
sermons in stone and bronze, for they are a constant incentive to
DETAIL OF BRONZE DOOR, BY GHIBERTI
the people, who are as famihar with their outhnes as with the
faces of their children.
It would be absurd for any one to attempt to see all the
treasures of the Uffizi gallery in one day, so we noted in the
catalogue the principal works of art and spent several happy
hours in studying them.
The most celebrated and valuable jiictures are hung in the
Tribuna, an octagonal room, where is also the "Venus de' Medici,"
VENUS DE' MEDiCI
222 PISA AND FLORENCE
rivalled only by the "Venus de Milo"* in Paris. I was disappointed
in this statue; the face seemed too narrow, and the pose, affected.
However, the group of the Wrestlers was superb, the play of the
muscles being wonderfully brought out.
A little genre f picture by Gerard Don, the Dutch master,
merits description. It is called the "Pancake Seller," and shows
the exterior of a Dutch cottage; here an old woman is seated, the
jar of batter by her side and the griddle in front. Some school
girls have been beguiled into buving the crisp cakes, and one is
already testing them. Her look of bliss mingled with questioning
is comical, as she glances at the unobservant sister, who is paying
for the treat. The watery eyes, the wrinkled skin of the old
woman, even the broken teeth in her jaws can be seen, and yet
the whole head is not more than an inch in diameter.
Don, it is said, never allowed a window to be opened in the
room where he painted, so fearful was he lest a particle of dust
should lodge on his work. His stroke was extremely delicate, and
some of his brushes contained but a single hair.
It is astonishing how manv artists live b}' copying the works
of the old masters; they often block the way and make it difficult
for visitors to get a good view of the pictures. Men and women
thoroughly trained in the technique of art frequently discover, in
the course of time, that they are devoid of creative power and,
therefore, are obliged to reproduce famous paintings. It is, some-
times, no easy matter to obtain permission to do so, as there are
so many applicants that places are engaged years ahead, at great
expense. Mrs. M. bought a fine copy of one of the groups in the
Coronation of the Virgin by Fra Angelico, once a monk of San
Marco. His work is known by the delicate poetry in the comjiosi-
tion, and by the exquisite coloring which attracts the attention of
the most indifierent observer.
Yesterday was Ascension Day, one of the jirincipal church
festivals, celebrated here with a Carnival of Flowers. Ascension
Day is also called by the Florentines Giorno dei Grilli, because of
a pagan custom, which still holds good, of doing honor, so to speak,
* Melos, an island in the ^Egean Sea.
f Home scene.
THE SINGING CHILDREN
224 P^S^^ ^^^'^ FLORENCE '
to the grillo or cricket. As this is one of the most prolific of in-
sects, it was selected in ancient times to represent the reproduction
of nature, the general awakening in the sprmgtime. Therefore,
on this day, boys walk about the streets of Florence, selling little
wicker cages with live crickets feeding on fresh green lea\es.
Armed with crickets, and roses, which are sold for five cents a
dozen, we proceeded to the Cascine * where the parade was to
take place. A grand stand had been erected on two sides of the
sijuare, and the charge for a good seat was only three lire. Every
Florentine who was not in the procession was a spectator. The
mamma with her pretty daughters in their most bewitching cos-
tumes and the nurse with head-dress of bright blue or red satin
ribbon, the ends trailing to the hem of her gown, were the most
conspicuous. As the women of the aristocrac}' do not nurse their
children, but select young and healthy mothers from the mountain
districts, these nurses are important persons. The children running
about made us think of the "Singing Boys" sculptured by Luca
della Robbia, which form part of a relief now m the National
Museum.
At the time appointed for the procession to move, the square
was thronged, and a squad of cavalry attempted to clear the way.
It was amusing to see their maneuvers. The commanding officer
dashed hither and thither, brandishing his sword and shouting, but
to no purpose; as soon as one spot was cleared, another would be
crowded, and the people retired only when forced to do so by the
advancing carriages which were beautifully decorated with flowers.
One, completely covered, wheels and all, with marguerites and calla
lilies, framed a slender Florentine gowned in white silk and carry-
ing a white parasol. Another, drawn by black horses with white
harness, was a mass of carnations, roses and palms. A gigantic
palm leaf attached to the rear seat formed a background for a
lady in white organdie and picture hat. The front seat, from the
edge to thc> coachman's box, was a sloping bank of locust blossoms.
The foreign diplomates trimmed their carriages with flowers in the
colors of their countries, the American consul's being especially fine,
* Park named because of a dairv once located there.
226 PISA AND FLORENCE
with red roses, white carnations, and blue bachelor's buttons. The
occupants looked as aristocratic as any of the others, if they did
come from a democratic country. However, all were quite outdone
in splendor by an American bicycle firm, whose Roman chariot,
driven by a man in Continental costume, was truly a sight. We
saw the professor, whom we met in Greece, and his party in line,
and taking a big yellow rose from my belt I flung it into the carriage.
They looked up and waved their hands, and there was a general
laugh all about us. It seemed to me more like a carnival, after I
had thrown something.
The Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence, is lined with
shops, and above them is a covered passage leading from the Uffizi
Gallery on the right bank of the Arno to the Pitti Palace on the
left. For centuries, the goldsmiths, including Cellini, have plied
their trade upon this bridge.
The Pitti Palace was erected by Luca Pitti in 1440, to exceed
in grandeur, if possible, anything built by his rivals, the Medici,
who, a few years later, obtained possession of it. Built of huge
blocks of stone it suggests a prison. The apartments are hung
with brocades and richly furnished; t\- pric-dicu^' m the king's bed-
room is decorated with garlands of fruit, made of jasper, onyx, lapis
lazuli, and jade.
The Pitti gallery is sumptuously fitted up and contains many
gems of painting; among them, the "Madonna of the Chair," by
Raphael, and the "Concert," by Giorgione.f
The masterpieces of Cellini are kept in the Silver Room. As
we looked into the glass cases, about which guards are stationed, we
realized the magnificence of the massive gold services hammered
out by this renowned goldsmith, for the Medici princes. There is
a basin in repousse, \ representing the abduction of Proserpine.
Pluto has taken her in his arms, while in the boat bearing them
to Hades, where, as his wife, she afterward reigned. The ferxor
of his embrace and her gentle submission, are wonderfully wrought.
In the old myth, Pluto, god of darkness, loved Proserpine as well
* Kneeling desk, for prayers.
f Italian artist of the 15th century.
% Formed in relief.
228 PISA AND FLORENCE
as Jupiter loved Juno, and from all accounts was rather more con-
stant. We lingered spellbound over plate, chalice and reliquary,*
where jewels are set so deftly in the designs that they seem to be
painted. But the guide's impatience awakened us from this "dream
of gold" to the stern, reality of dipping into our purses for a half franc
fee. Oh, to think that I had to come away, and that I may never
again see those perfect creations! Nevei'theless, the recollection of
them is all mine to keep in the storehouse, of my memory, forever.
On leaving the Silver Room, we went directl}- into the Boboli
Gardens, which are laid out in terraces on the hill back of the
palace, high above the citw There is a very pretty grotto, and
innumerable walks wind under the ilex trees trained to form an
arbor overhead. Some of the paths are adorned with statues, and
lead to beautiful fountains and rustic summer houses.
The policy of the Medici family, so far as agriculture and
commerce were concerned, was excellent, and though they ruled
with an iron hand, their patronage of art, science and letters was
munificent. Artist after artist was sought out and aided to develop
his talents, and to the Medici Florence owes many of her treasures.
The pride of the city is the statue of David by Michael Angelo,
who was born during the reign of Lorenzo, the Magnificent.
Carved from a block of marble, discarded as spoiled, it stood for
years in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, but is now in tlie Academy
of Fine Arts. The house where the sculptor lived is at present a
museum. His remains rest in the church of Santa Croce beneath
the monument erected to his memory.
The day before we left Florence, we visited the Protestant
cemetery, where Elizabeth Barrett Browning is buried. Her profile,
laurel-crowned, is cut in low relief on one side of the sarcophagus
which is supported by four columns. Remembering how far away
beneath the stones of Westminster Abbey lies the husband so
fondly beloved, I recall the lines written by one of her friends: —
"Parted in death they lay,
But hand in hand they
Hold their eternal way."
* Casket inclosint: relics.
TOMB OF MICHAEL ANGELO
230
FISA AND FLORENCE
Near by, lies Theodore Parker; and though the poet and the
prophet are here, so far from their native lands, it is such a
beautiful spot, that we are not sorry.
It was delightful, toward evening, to lean over the parapet by
the Arno, as the setting sun gilded the fagade of San Miniato on
the height across the river. We could look down the long line of
statues standing guard in the porticoes of the Uffizi and see the
cold, stern face of Dante, the noble, kindly one of Michael Angelo,
and the thoughtful countenance of Cellini. It seemed as if we
were at a great reception, and that these stately figures might step
from their places and stroll across the Piazza della Signoria, as in
centuries gone by. Would that I, too, might leave to the world
some immortal work, an inspiration for all future time!
S?1:SI
DANTE MONUMENT, FLORENCE
CHAPTER XVII
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
-^^HE Riviera is a narrow strip of coast stretching from
Spezia, Italy, to Nice, France. It is bounded on the
^H r'ljrt north by the Apennines and Maritime Alps, while on
••glVfLp^ the south lies the Mediterranean sea.
/»/>4f »! -, About three hours after leaving Florence, we passed
Carrara, near Spezia; the famous quarries are plainly
visible from the railroad. The mountain sides look as
if an avalanche of snow dusted with soot had fallen upon them.
The town of Carrara lies at the foot of the mountains, and a
railroad brings the huge blocks of precious marble to the sea, for
shipment. West of Genoa, the railroad runs through a succession
of tunnels piercing the spurs of the mountains, but the occasional
sight of blue waters amply repaid us for the smoke and discomfort
we had to endure. At one moment, we would see gray, desolate
cliffs rising from a shimmering sea; at the next, a charming valley
rich with plantations of olives, figs and aloes, while lemon groves
flourish on terraces above. The gardens in the little villages are
inclosed by stone walls that trail up and down the slopes like
serpents, their tops one tangle of bright-hued flowers — roses, pink
and white, scarlet geraniums and giant clumps of marguerites —
which climb and tumble over the edges.
As we passed the French border at Ventimiglia, the archi-
tecture became irregular in outline. The square, box-like, Italian
farmhouse was replaced by the picturesque French cottage with its
slanting roof. The sides and rear of the houses show the original
color of the plaster, a gray or deep cream, in sharp contrast to
the strawberry pink, blue, or yellow of the painted front. The
rocky arms of the coast reach out into the deep purple of the sea,
embracing stretches of sandy beach as clean and inviting as the
232
THF. R/J-JERA AN£> MILAN
233
finest of nKirl)le Ijaths. The soft murmur of the waves on the
pebbly strand, and the dehcious odor of the flowers is indescribable.
Nice, lvin,<4' in a hollow formed by circling hills, has one of
the most delightful situations on the Riviera. Owing to its shel-
tered position and warm climate, it has long been a favorite winter
resort for invalids from all over the world. The finely appointed
hotels provide luxuries as well as comforts; broad avenues afford
pleasant driving and riding, and numerous theaters and concert
gardens furnish entertainment for the people. We were disappointed
CASINO AND PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS, NICE
to find Nice so much like a modern citv, and lacking the wilder
beauty of the smaller towns to the east. We lunched at the Cafe
de la Regence, and then took a drive about the citv. The avenues
are shaded by plane trees and the bark-shedding eucalyptus. At
the junction of the Rue de France with a side street, is a cross
erected on the spot where Francis I. met Charles V. The river
Paillon, which flows through the center of the city, has been cov-
ered in several places, and handsome squares have been built over
it. The Casino with its winter garden and gaming rooms was
closed. In front of this favorite resort is a stalactite grotto over-
234
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
hung by pepper trees and aloes. The season begins about January
1st, and lasts four months.
From Nice we drove six miles east along the Riviera to Eze, a
village perched on a lofty rock; the ancient chateau still lifts its
battlements aloft. At Eze we boarded the train for Monte Carlo
in the principalit)- of Monaco, the most famous and fashionable
gambling place in the world. Its outward appearance is ideal; it
MONACO
is everything that a poetic soul could desire. As we left the train,
we saw above us a cliff, its rough sides filled in with growing
ferns, palms and gorgeous flowers. Winding steps led to the top,
whence we looked for miles up and down a coast that is beautiful
beyond words. Across a deep ravine, on a promontory rising 195
ft. from the sea and surrounded by ramparts, is the town of
Monaco, "the capital of the smallest sovereign principality in
Europe." It is under the rule of the Prince of Grimaldi, but France
controls the customhouse and the postal revenues. We could see,
from where we stood, the magnificent palace of the Prince, with
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
235
We engaged a room for
its gardens of date palms and agaves
the night at the Hotel Terminus, where the porter presented a
blank which we were obliged to fill out with our name, age, na-
tionality and occupation, tor the information of the authorities.
The law ot the principality requires this.
As we had decided to take dinner near the Casino and it was
almost six o'clock, we went immediately to the Cafe de Paris, which
CASINO AND GARDENS. MONTE CARLO
faces it; many of the players dine there. A delicious repast was
served and our appetites were only half satisfied, when a woman
entered the dining-room and took a seat at a table near us. She
was fully sixty years of age, apparently educated, and richly dressed;
diamonds Hashed from her ears, throat and fingers; but, — she was
intoxicated! There was no scene; she ordered her dinner and ate
it as best she could, but the bonnet of roses and lace gradually
slipped to one side of her head and the poor creature mumbled
continually to herself, as her shaking hands tried to convey the
food to her lips. The people, about, paid no attention and the
236 THE R/J-fERA AND MILAN
waiter's manner was respectful, when she raised a pair of bleared
eyes and attempted to look angry because the soup was not hot
enough. This incident made us sick at heart, and, if we could
have taken a train from Monte Carlo that night, we would have
done so, without tr}'ing to see any more of the place.
After walking about the gardens between the theater and the
public buildings, we decided to enter the Casino and, for the first
time in our lives, see a gambling table. Mounting the steps of
the handsome edifice with its columns and statues, we entered a
large hall out of which opens the office where each guest presents
a visiting card. Here, we were asked if we wished to enter the
gaming rooms, and upon our acquiescence, received a card of ad-
mission to the " Salles de Jeu. " Within the magic portal, which
has opened to admit so many seekers after the fickle goddess
Fortune, is a long salon superbly decorated, and furnished with
three long tables, where we saw a company of men and women
playing roulette. Out of this salon open smaller rooms, where
trente ct qiiarantc engrossed the attention of the players, and where
the stakes were heavier than in the game of roulette. The people
were as businesslike in their play as if they were bank clerks en-
gaged in routine work; all were quiet and tossed their five franc pieces
or louis upon the green table with apparent indifference as to the
result. Those who staked the most showed no sign of pleasure
or disappt)intment at the turn of the wheel. No one spoke to us,
though the croupiers '" glanced up inquisitively now and then, as
we stood back of the players seated at the table. We remained
only about twenty minutes in these rooms, and without having
the slightest desire to stake one penny, left them and went into
the concert-hall, where an orchestra was rendering a program of
classical music. The room was full, and we saw young girls with
their mammas, and many tourists, as well as the usual frequenters
of the place. The roof of the Salle des Fetes is supported by a
row of marble ]iillars, and there are cushioned divans along the
sides of the room . Here, people promenade between the numbers
of the concert program. The square was lighted brilliantly when
* Men who manage the game.
238
THE RIVIERA AND MIIAN
we went out and gaily-dressed groups were laughing and chatting
as they walked about, or sipped ices under the trees.
We returned to Genoa without one backward look at the spot
where so much beauty conceals a serpent, — the serpent of vice;
where men and women, however richly dressed, seem like sepulchers,
artistic carving and decoration without, ghastliness within.
Genoa derives its name from the Latin word, gcint, meaning
"knee, "which the coast resembles. It is the most important sea-
CAMPO SANTO, GENOA
port in Italy, with a harbor, four miles in length, sheltering 15,000
vessels each year. As the city rises from the sea, upon the slopes
of the Ligurian Alps, with a wealth of palaces, marble arcades and
luxuriant gardens, it certainly deserves its title, "La Superba."
Its enemies, in ancient times, characterized Genoa in the following
proverb: — "A sea without fish, mountains without forests, men
without faith and women without modesty."
The object that first attracted our attention as we came out
of the station, on May 19th, was the monument to Columbus,
STATUE OF COLUMBUS, GENOA
240
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
who was l)orn here. At the feet of the discoverer kneels the fi,G;ure
of America; on the pedestal are prows of ships and allegorical statues
of Religion, Science, Wisdom and Strength. As we walked up
through the center of the city, we passed many fine palaces on
the Via Garibaldi, where we also found the bankers, Granet, Brown
& Co. , who had taken
care of our mail from
the time we left New
York, promptly forward-
ing letters, according to
directions.
Mr. Fletcher, the
American consul, urged
us to visit the cemetery,
which he said was the
finest in the world. Fol-
lowing his advice, we
drove there before tak-
ing the train for Milan,
on the following morn-
ing. It is located in the
\-alley of the Bisagno,
about one and a half
miles from the city. At
first, our wa}' lay along
the heights above Genoa,
and then descended the
slopes on the other side. At the turns of the road, we had views
of the harbor crowded with vessels from all countries. A large
number of the tombs in the "Campo Santo, "as the Italians term
the cemetery, are in stone galleries. In the center of the upper
gallery is a rotunda, containing a chapel lavishly decorated. Several
people of note, including Camilla Urso, the violinist, are laid in the
crypt. Many of the monuments are between the pillars of the open
arcades, the body being beneath; other bodies are placed in niches
rising one above another and closed by marble slabs bearing in-
scriptions. A tomb that attracted us, especially, was that of a
MONUMENT TO YOUNG GIRL
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN 241
young girl, portrayed as rising from licr couch, in answer to the
summons of an angel.
In going from Genoa to Milan, one crosses the plain of Lom-
barcly. The principal rivers watering its rich farms are the Po
and the Ticino, which are diverted into canals, bordered by rows
of trees set closely together, their roots forming a bed for the
water. This part of the country has been irrigated since the 12th
centur}', and sometimes yields twelve crops in one year. The
system was impro^■ed by Leonardo da Vinci, who was not only a
great artist, but a practical engineer as well.
At the present writing, we are comfortal)ly housed at the
Hotel Metropole on the Piazza del Duomo, * a square so spacious
that one can see all sides of the great cathedral to good advantage.
Its countless glittering spires and pinnacles finished by statues
stand out against the sky, clear cut as cameos. This cathedral,
next in size to St. Peter's and the cathedral of Seville, is in the
Gothic style with Romanesque modifications. Begun in 1386, it
was not completed until after Napoleon I. set artisans to work
upon the facade. One of his weaknesses cropped out when he
added his own statue, in antique costume, to the multitude already
on the edifice. The stained glass windows are the largest known
and are a blaze of color, at midday. In the costly chapel under-
neath the high altar, is the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, a famous
archbishop of Milan. For a fee, the sacristan raises the outer
casket of silver, and discloses the coffin of rock crystal, through
which the body can be seen. It is clothed in rich vestments and
covered with jewels; on the breast is a superb cross of emeralds
given by Maria Theresa of Austria.
Opposite the cathedral stands the royal palace. There, Na-
poleon I., Victor Emanuel and Humbert, have lived. The Grand
Salon, where it is said that Napoleon held several fetes, is like a
gallery of statuary. The effect of 4,000 candles set in Venetian
glass chandeliers, when reflected in a polished floor, is brilliant
indeed. There are marble busts of Napoleon and his two wives
in several of the rooms.
* Cathedral.
i6
.p^-
•'>^^^-..~'*f^"^
g'O
F
:^^^^'^?k^^i
i'W^— ~4
THE RIVIERA AND MILAN
243
modern glass-roofed
The Milanese points with pride to a
arcade connecting the Piazza del Duomo with the Piazza della
Scala, where stands the colossal statue of Leonardo da Vinci.
Within this arcade are fine shops and restaurants. We were
amused when an English waiter in one of the restaurants informed
us, with an air of pride, that they had an "Irish stew." Evi-
BRAWINGROOM IN ROYAL PALACE
dently they are in demand by tourists, and I do not wonder, for
the one we had was delicious.
The celebrated theater, La Scala, facing the piazza of the
same name, was built on the site of a church erected by Beatrice
della Scala, a Milanese noblewoman. In this theater some of the
greatest singers in the world have won their laurels. There are
no performances at this season of the year, but we were permitted
to inspect the stage, which is the largest in Europe. The acoustic
properties of La Scala are marvellous. When we clapped our
hands in front of the stage, the clap sounded like a pistol fired
in the gallery.
Leonardo da Vinci (1452-15 19) was marvellously gifted. To
the mind of a philosopher he added the talents of an engineer,
MONUMENT TO CAVOUR, MILAN
TFJE RIVIERA AND MILAN 245
architect, musician and painter and was, withal, such a thorough stu-
dent that the manuscripts which lie left to the world have been used
as text-books, ever since. Handsome in person and agreeable in
manners, it is small wonder that he was the idol of the people.
The most celebrated work of art in Milan is his picture of the
"Last Supper," painted in oils on the end wall of the refectory
in the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie. If he had only
employed the reliable method of fresco, we might still have this
wondrous creation intact, but time and dampness have combined
to destroy it. There is a wonderful majesty about the figure of
the Saviour, indistinct as it is. To mv mind, divinity is more
nearl}' portrayed in this face than in any other representation. The
artist has depicted the moment when Jesus has just uttered the words,
"One of you shall betray me!" The guilt in the face of Judas
and the consternation of the other disciples onlv make more im-
pressive and solemn the resignation and suffering in the features
of the Master.
We saw a number of Leonardo's drawings in the Biblioteca
Ambrosiana, justly considered one of the famous libraries of the
world. It contains 160,000 printed books, besides a great number
of rare MSS. We saw MSS. of Homer, dating from the 4th
centur}-; a cop}- of Virgil, with marginal notes by Petrarch; letters
of Tasso, Galileo and the Medici.
One of the finest monuments in the citv is that erected to
the memory of Cavour, the regenerator of Italy, a statesman, the
very mention of whose name kindles the patriotic spark in every
Italian breast.
I have only given you a hint of the treasures of Milan, but
time passes and we must away. We are going to leave our bag-
gage, with the exception of a hand satchel, in the hotel here,
until we return from Venice. We leave early to-morrow, by a
slow train (third-class), and hope thus to see something of the
country and the peasants along the route.
CHAPTER XVIII
VENICE
KNOW of nothin_i4 more enjoyable, caj'a viia," than to
float down the Grand Canal at Venice on a moonlit
'^T^ Bf ini^ht in May. As one rests amid the cushions of the
"' w/ .^oi^dola, all the senses are inthralled by the beauty and
witchery of this "Bride of the Sea." The blackened
\^^ fagades of the old palaces are veneered with silver, and
' ' the onlv sound that breaks the stillness is the musical
"Stall oh!"f or " Lungo eh!";}; of the gondolier, as he swings the
boat into a side canal, or shoots by it. The charm of Venice is
in her decay, for nowhere are Time's ravages more apparent. Her
buildings and bridges, standing upon piles, are stained with the
tides of centuries and burned with the fierce heat ot the summer's
sun, but who would have them restored? They have grown old
gracefully, like a woman who sets a square of rare old lace on
her whitened locks, instead of a rose bonnet.
The cjuiet is delightful; no rattle of wheels; no clatter of hoofs.
Only the sound of church bells and the murmur of voices come
to our ears at night. We can forget in the moonlight that morning
will bring hideous steam-launches to rush past the slow-moving
gondolas, forcing us to remember that progress has entered this
haven of rest; that, instead of bra\c crusaders with scarlet crosses,
a cosmopolitan throng will assemble in the Piazza San Marco.
Nevertheless, in spite of these drawbacks, in spite of the merchants'
signs stretched across palaces once inhabited by princes, Venice is
still her queenly self, and until the Lion ot St. Mark folds his
wings, and St. Theodore topples from his lottv throne, she will
* My dear.
t To the left!
;|; Strai;^ht ahead 1
246
1 ■'■■I :«?-*•-
% ••«» ;.♦. , /'I
248 VENICE
continue to enslave the hearts of men and add to her almost end-
less train of courtiers. Ah, merely to live in Venice is a joy!
With the smallest of incomes, one can have a room in an old
palace, a coin for the (gondolier, another for the macaroni and
twisted roll. It seems as if here one might rest.
The railway from Milan, after passing Fort Malghera, enters
Venice by a bridge two and a third miles in length. In the dis-
tance, the city looked so like a giant raft loaded with fantastic
shapes, that it was disappointing to come into an ordinar\' station.
However, at the exit, all was strange and delightful. A gondola,
rowed by a stalwart boatman standing on the poppa, * landed us
at the Piazzetta, adjoining the Piazza San Marco. Here we en-
gaged rooms at a hotel bearing the same name.
The Piazza is like a vast, open-air ballroom and has a fine
pavement of trachyte and marble without a stick or a stone to
interrupt its smooth expanse. It is inclosed on three sides by old
palaces, of which the ground floors are converted into caffc and
shops, and on the fourth side, by the cathedral of St. Mark and
the Piazzetta. In the late afternoon or evening, the Piazza is
much frequented. Tourists from every country on the globe sit
at little tables in front of Florian's or the Caffe San Marco. Noble
Venetian ladies with aquiline noses and delicately curved lips, in
costumes direct from Paris, promenade the s<]uare. There are fat,
old Jews from the Ghetto, f smoking the long Italian cigars, and
pretty buxom damsels of the middle classes, who, thank Fortune!
have not yet discarded the mantilla or the necklace of corals.
All the world loves the Piazza and all the world admires the
oriental splendor of the Byzantine cathedral of St. Mark that faces
upon it. When the sunlight falls upon the facade of this edifice,
striking across the five domes, the bronze horses over the main
portal, and the mosaics, it glows as if set witli precious stones.
The church is built chiefly of materials taken by the Venetians
from conquered nations, for the city is a vast storehouse of plunder
incorporated in the churches and palaces.
The effect of the interior, enriched with priceless mosaics, ala-
* Covered stern.
f The Jews' quarter.
250 VENICE
baster and choice marbles, is overwhelming. Tlie pavement of
stone mosaic dates from the 12th century and, though frequently
restored, is in a deplorable condition. Beneath the high altar rest
the ashes of St. Mark, brought from Alexandria in 829. The altar-
piece of plates of gold and silver, enamelled and set with gems,
was made in Constantinojile in i 105.
Thousands of pigeons find homes under the arches of St.
Mark's, and are fed daily by the charitable, who buy corn sold
for that purpose in the Piazza. These plump birds with iridescent
throats alight familiarly upon one's arms and shoulders, a bright,
inquiring look in their eyes, as if asking for more grain.
In the Piazzetta are two granite columns, spoils from an
eastern city; one bearing the Winged Lion of St. Mark, the other,
St. Theodore on a crocodile, representing the Divine Spirit con-
([uering tlic venomous in life. Ruskin jioints out that one of
these shafts is slender, the other more massive; that the clever
Venetian who carved the capitals conceived the idea of placing a
large top on the slender column, and a smaller one on the other;
thus, by careful graduation of line and curve, equalizing the two
and making them as nearly twin pillars as possible. Prisoners of
state were executed between them.
Towering above the surrounding buildings is the Campanile,
322 ft. in height. The sculptured vestibule at the base was once
a favorite meeting-place of the nobility.
Close to the cathedral is the Palace of the Doges, who once
ruled Venice. It has been destroyed five times and, each time,
rebuilt with greater magnificence than before. On the west and
south of the present Gothic structure, built in the 15th centurv,
are colonnades, one above the other; there are thirty-six columns
in the lower, and sevent3'-one in the upper which is called "La
Loggia." Upon this rests the upper part of the building faced by
slabs of colored marble. The capitals of the columns below are
richly carved; while all are beautitul, the one on the corner next
the lagoons is considered by some critics to be the finest in
Europe. The grouping of the sculptured foliage is strikingly
natural; one almost feels the wind in the broad acanthus leaves,
they seem so flexible.
VENETIA RECEIVING JUSTICE AND PEACE
252 VENICE
When we reached the top of the Giants' Staircase, so called
from the colossal statues of Mars and Neptune on the landinf;;, we
stood upon the ver)' spot where the Doges were crowned. In the
loggia, be3-ond, is a line of portrait busts of great Italians; among
them, those of John and Sebastian Cabot, so closely allied to the
history of our country.
The furniture of the state apartments has long since been
removed, but the paintings inclosed in carved frames of gilded
wood or stucco, some of them a foot and a half in depth, give an
idea of the splendor of the palace, when Venice ruled the seas.
After passing through the Hall of the Four Doors, we entered
the Hall of the Assembly, where the glorious ceiling paintings by
Paolo Veronese and the ' ' Marriage of St. Catherine " painted on
the side wall by Tintoretto interpret something of the feeling and
spirit of ancient Venice.
In Tintoretto's famous picture, we see a young girl, with purity
of heart stamped upon her sweet face, ascending a flight of steps
to receive the ring held out by the Christ child, who, in the arms
of the Madonna, leans forward to greet her. The Virgin's blue
mantle is upheld b)' angels. This picture is especially noteworthy
because of the fine composition and careful blending of the colors.
How I wish you could see the painting of "Venetia," seated
on the globe, giving audience to Justice and Peace! Think of a
Venus with golden hair bound with pearls, eyes of slumbering fire,
checks the color of a glowing rose, throat where the delicate blue
veins show through the transparent skin, and mouth like a ripe
pomegranate. Clothe this goddess in gold-brocaded satin and a
crimson velvet mantle lined with ermine. Give her the soul of a
patrician proud ot the State, her rank and learning, and vou will
see the Venetia of Veronese.
The Virtues occupy the smaller compartments of the ceiling.
"Moderation" is represented heckling a restive eagle by the wing;
th(.' arm of 'T'idelity ' is about the neck of a huge mastifl; the
most charming of nil, 'Tndustry," holds aloft a web. The poise
of this figure is free, the sweep of the silken draperies, regal, while
the splendid eyes, beaming with sublime energ}-, look up through
the web as if invoking divine benediction upon all honest labor.
254
VENICE
I'aolo Veronese, an Italian artist of the i6th century, painted
sacred compositions in a secular st3'le which was both luxurious
and refined. He could not conceive any one in simple robes, but
put silks and jewels upon the saints, as if they were people of
fashion; even the blue robe of the Saviour, in some pictures, is of
rich material. Both in his works and in those of Tintoretto, the
Doees were alvvavs introduced, but the seeminc' incongruity is for-
<^otten in one's enjo\'ment of the perfect paintinf^. Ruskin says,
"You will in no other way enter so deeply into the heart of the
Venice of the 15th and i6th centuries, as by studying the senti-
ments expressed in these very paintings of Veronese, for she loved
pomp and splendor, * * * beauty and wealth, and with it all,
she loved her saints and her sovereign, and could never separate
them. * * * To be the sovereign was to be in close com-
munion with God, and to be appointed by him, * * * and we
must study art as we do history, for the feeling of the times, tor
art is history made beautiful."
From the Hall of the Senate, to the sessions of which the
senators, in early times, were especially invited, we passed to the
Hall of the Council of Ten. This council was elected by the
Grand Council, and, with the Doge, judged a certain class of
offenders. Before its tribunal, only, the cause of the defendant
could not be pleaded by any of his connections; but, as the laws
of the Republic required that each prisoner should be allowed a
defender, two lawyers were hired b\- the go\ernment to attend to
the needs of poor prisoners.
In the Hall of the Three Chiefs of the Council, there is a
small cabinet in the wall; a slit in the back of it communicates with
the antechamber, where it was formerly covered by a lion's head
of marble, into the mouth of which documents with secret infor-
mation for the Council were inserted, a severe penalty being
attached to a false denunciation.
The Great Council was the governing body to which belonged
only the nobility, i. e. , those whose names were inscribed in the
Golden Book of Descent and who had attained the age of twenty
years. In electing its members, the Council used silver and gold
ballots. If, when his name was called, the candidate drew a gold
i^ENTCR 255
ballot, he was admitted; otherwise, he had to wait another year.
In the Hall of the Great Council is a hu^e canvas, stretching
across the end wall which is seventy-eight ieet wide. The subject
is Paradise, where the enthroned Christ is surrounded b}' a vast
multitude of figures. This, the largest oil ]iainting in the world,
was executed by Jacopo Robusti, born in 15 12, and dubbed "Tin-
toretto," because his father was a dyer. His motto was, "The
drawing of Michael Angelo with the coloring of Titian."
The windows of the Hall of the Great Council open upon a
balcony overlooking the lagoons and islands; the Lido and San
Lazzaro lie to the left. We leaned over the balustrade and
watched the gondolas moored to the quay, below. Two of them,
evidently belonging to some prelate or to a family of importance,
were lined with black cloth, the overhanging lappets of the canopy
cut in squares and bound with gilt braid. The two gondoliers
wore a livery of black and gold.
The library holds many rare manuscripts; among them, a very
old Slavonic Testament, a copy of Dante's Divine Comedy dating
from the 13th centurv, the first book printed in Venice in 1469,
and a missal Ijound in Byzantine covers incrusted with pearls,
which, in tlu 9th century, belonged to the church of St. Sophia,
at Constantinople.
The prisons, which are underneath the palace, are reached by
a narrow staircase. Some of the dungeons are grewsome enough;
small and absolutely dark, \\ith apertures in the wall for the
admission of food and air. The most dangerous prisoners were
once confined in these dungeons; near them was the torture cham-
ber, and the place for executions.
A covered marble bridge, renowned, the world over, as the
Bridge of Sighs, connects the palace with the prison opposite, which
is still in use. We walked along the narrow passage and looked
through the barred windows that have given many an unfortunate
his last glimpse of the outside world. How welcome was the fresh
air and soft, bright sunshine as we came from that fateful spot
into the broad Piazza!
An Italian artist tells me that, one evening a few years ago,
he was sitting at a table in the Piazza with some friends, including
THE BRICGE OF SIGHS. VENICE
VEX ICE 257
a German artist from Nurembero-, when a young lady elegantly
dressed, and accompanied by a middle-aged woman, passed down
the promenade. The girl was evidently an aristocrat, and so
beautiful that she, at once, attracted the attention of the group.
They noticed, especially, her extreme pallor, and spoke of her,
afterwards, as the "marble bride."
One evening several weeks later, the same friends were drink-
ing their coffee in front of a caffc on the Riva degli Schiavoni, a
handsome quay east of the Doge's Palace, when the young woman
and her companion again appeared. This time, she was plainly
attired and wore a dark veil. Approaching the caffc, she stopped,
and, throwing back her veil, drew from the folds of her mantle a
violin and began to play. In a moment, every one's attention was
arrested by the strains of exquisite music, drawn from the instru-
ment. An acquaintance of our friend exclaimed, ' • Is she really
here!" In reply to the eager questioning of the others, he stated
that she belonged to one of the best families in Trieste; that he
had heard rumors of her being in Venice, but had not seen her
before, and could not understand why she should appear as a street
musician. As the violinist finished playing, the elder lady, whom
the artist judged to be her mother, passed through the crowd which
had gathered, collecting coins, and presently the two disappeared.
This performance was repeated on a number of evenings, and, in
the meantime, the German artist seemed to be the only one who
succeeded in becoming acquainted with the fair musician.
One day, our Italian friend dropped into the German's studio
and found him painting a picture of three young girls playing upon
violins. He saw, on close examination, that the three were painted
from one model in diiTerent positions, and that this model was
the ' ' marble bride. "
A short time afterward, on the evening of a festival, the Grand
Canal was illuminated, and alive with boats. When the throng
was greatest, a steam launch, in pushing its way from station to
station through the maze of gondolas, capsized one in which were
seated the young girl, her mother and the German artist. The
German was saved; the mother lived two days after being taken
to the hospital, but the lovely \iolin player was drowned.
17
258 VENICE
From that time on, the German's unhappiness was marked,
and, in a few days, he was missed from his usual haunts. Dis-
turbed by his absence, our Itahan friend went again to his studio
and there discovered him seated despondently before the picture
which he declared he could never finish; a week later, he was
found dead, and it is believed that he took his own life.
The picture of the "Three Violin Players " hangs at present
in the National Gallery at Berlin and, though still unfinished, is
considered a masterpiece.
One morning, with map and guidebook, we proceeded to prowl,
as we delight to do, among the back streets and alleys where we can
see the people who are born, live and die in one place; not the fash-
ionable folk, who ape the Parisians and whose children are educated
abroad. We wandered m and out of the calli, narrow streets
connected by bridges over the small canals, stopping to look into
the shop-windows or watching the provision-dealer sell potatoes,
steaming hot from an iron kettle. Florentine butchers often roast
a leg of mutton, or 3'oung chickens on a turning spit, in lull view
of the passers by, but we did not see it done here, much to our
disappointment. On the way back to the hotel, we bought some
boiled potatoes, and fried them over our alcohol lamp; with trcsh
rolls and strawberries, we had a real treat.
The Rialto has been the principal bridge over the Grand
Canal since 1591, when the last marble block was placed in position
upon the span. Ancient Venice was situated on the island, Rivo
alto,* which gave its name to this bridge, on which are shops
patronized by the lower classes. Crossing to the west side of the
canal, we stopped and looked back toward the bank we had just
left, where, away up near the top of an old building, and almost
obliterated, is a fresco by no other than the master Giorgione.f
Naturally, we were reminded of Sh}-lock as we found ourselves
in the Jews' quarter. Near the fruit market is a short granite
column; in the i6th centurv, the laws of the I\epublic were pro-
mulgated fi"om its flat top.
* High bank.
t Giorgio Barbarelli (1477-1511), called Giorgione, meaning George the
Great, from his noble figure.
26o VENICE
Recrossing the Rialto, we walked down a back street where
the crab-catchers boil and prepare crabs for the market. Over a
charcoal fire built close to the edge of the canal is suspended a
big, black pot into which the live crabs are plunged to boil. When
done, they are ladled out into baskets; then, one by one, scrubbed
with a brush, in the waters of the canal, until they look clean.
We wonder how any one can eat them, knowing where they have
been washed; for there are smells in Venice equal to those of
Cologne, and they nearly all come from the canals, which do not
seem to be entirely wholesome, in spite of the fact that the rise
and fall of the tide is about two feet.
In the doorways of neighboring houses, young women cluster
in groups, stringing beads for the fans and necklaces that are sold
in the bazaars and on the streets. They hold a pan of beads on
their knees, and, tipping it with the left hand, thrust a bunch of
wires, held fan-shaped in the right hand, in rapid succession into
the pan, so that they catch up the bits of glass and are soon full.
These women, who beg of every passing stranger, are of the lowest
class, and their faces are absolutely expressionless.
Tired with our walk, we engaged a gondola and started for a
lone row to the island of Murano. As we turned into a narrow
canal, we noticed a gondola ahead containing two women and three
men. In the center of the boat was a tiny casket covered with a
black pall, a cross in white braid outlined upon it and flowers
heaped above. Suddenly, there seemed to be some difficulty about
the rowing of the boat, and one of the men stripped off the white
gown that he wore, showing a workman's blouse underneath; then,
taking another oar, he assisted the gondolier, and on they went.
As it was our intention to stop at the Campo Santo on our
way to Murano, we followed them. They placed the casket in the
center of the little chapel on this island set apart for the burial of the
dead. Two priests appeared and ]X'rformed a hasty, and, to us, a
soulless, ceremony. Then the two men in white gowns, evidently
the father and the grandfather of the child, picked up the wooden
bier, and, followed by the women, went out to the cemetery, about
which ran a gallcrv with rows of compartments. We stayed at a
respectful distance until they had placed the jilain pine box in its
I'EXICE 261
niche and bricked up the opening. It seemed so pathetic! no one
wept; no one but the bearers looked sad; the two women carried
their tall candles as if in a festal procession. The priest, wlio
accompanied them, began to take of[ his vestments as soon as the
workingmen opened the niche in the wall, and, with the bov attend-
ant, trotted away without saying a word to the people.
Alurano possesses 3,900 inhabitants, the majorit}' more or less
interested in the manufacture of Venetian glass, an industry iden-
tified with the island since the 14th century. The children of
Venetian nobles in the old days intermarried with those of the
glass manufacturei"s, and their descendants inherited titles of
nobilitv. JNIurano had its own Golden Book of Descent, and its
own mint.
The Museum contains rare specimens of the glass blowers' art,
many secrets of which were long lost.
In the furnace rooms of the factory we visited, men were at
work on an order of globes for chandeliers. In making this kind
of glass, where many colors are employed and the designs are
unique, each man must be an artist.
The glass cubes for mosaic work are made in Murano and
quantities of them are sent to the big factory of Salviati, on the
Grand Canal, where we stopped on our return. This establish-
ment furnished the mosaics in the Columbus Building, Chicago,
and the manager referred to the fact with great pride. A design
for the interior of the dome of the Guards' Chapel, London, is
now being executed.
The process is as follows: cubes of all colors are placed in
pigeon-hole cabinets ready tor the artist; the design is sketched on
heavy paper, and upon this the mosaic is set; a second design in
water colors hangs, for reference, in front of the workman, who
has at his right an iron wedge, a hammer, and a pot of glue.
He selects his cube and, laying it on the iron wedge, knocks off
with a sharp-edged hammer a piece of the desired size, perhaps,
a square, perhaps, a thin wedge, and with the glue fastens the
right side to the design, in the proper spot. The wrong side of
the mosaic is toward the artist. When it is cemented upon the
wall for which it was designed, and after it is dr}-, the paper,
262 VENICE
covering the right side, is soaked off with warm soapsuds, and the
mosaic appears. The backgrounds are generally gold and are
made in the following manner. The foundation is a sheet of col-
ored glass, made opaque by oxide of tin; upon this the gold leaf
is laid on, flat, and covered by a thin la\-er of white, transparent
glass which protects the gold. This is the secret of the preser-
vation of gold mosaic. When hard, this sheet of gilt is cut into
dice, and set in the usual way.
Near Salviati's is the old Rezzonico Palace, now occupied by
Barrett Browning, son of Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning.
Here, the poet died in 1889, and a memorial tablet is affixed to
the wall. The family were absent and the custodian permitted us
to go through all the rooms. There were pictures and busts of
the gifted father and mother in nearly every apartment. We had
the privilege of seeing the alcove fitted uj") like a miniature chapel,
in memor}^ of Mrs. Browning, the "Little Portuguese," as her
husband loved to call her. The son dabbles both in painting and
sculpture; one of his pictures is a good portrait of his father.
This morning, we spent an hour studying Titian's "Assump-
tion," and "Presentation in the Temple." The latter portrays the
Virgin, when a child, going up the steps of the temple to meet
the priests. Both pictures are in the Academy of Fine Arts and
alone are well worth the trip to V^enice.
From the Academy, a small steamer took us to the Lido, one
of the low sand-hills which separate the lagoons from the open
sea. It has been changed into a garden spot, with a fine Casino
and bathing houses. Fishing smacks with red and yellow sails
were coming from Chioggia, and we passed quaint shrines placed
on poles sticking up out of the water, before which the gondolier
says his Ave Maria.
The island of San Lazzaro, a piece of waste land, was bought
in 1 1 82 from Seigneur Leone Paolini by the Republic of Venice,
for a lepers' hospital, and named after St. Lazarus, the patron
saint of lepers. When the disease had disappeared from this jiart
of the country, the island was abandoned.
In April, 1715, an Armenian monk named Mekhithar, accom-
panied by eleven of his brethren, came to Venice to seek protection
264 VENICE
from the Turks. The RepubHc ofifered them, as an asvkim, this
deserted island with its crumbhng buildings. The monks gladly
accepted it and set to work. The monastery was completed by
the founder, Mekhithar, in 1 740, and a printing establishment was
started. Mekhithar was a model of industry, and the books brought
out were calculated to promote intellectuality and piety, especially
among the Armenians, to whom instructive works were sent. The
Abbot died, nine years later, and his body lies at the foot of the
high altar of tlie chapel. From that time, the monks took the
name of Mekhitharists.
As the steel prow of our gondola reached the marble stairs
leading to the door of the monastery, a porter appeared and
politely ushered us into a parlor curiously furnished and hung with
oil paintings. In a moment, a monk with an intellectual face en-
tered, and, addressing us in French, asked if we would like to see
the monastery.
He first led us into the museum, where there is a mummy
presented by the Khedive of Egypt. It is said to be 3,500 years
old and lies in a cedar coffin mclosed in glass. The bod}', with
the exception of the head, is wrapped in 1,000 yds. of linen cloth,
decorated on the outside with beadwork. The brain, which has
been removed and dried, lies upon the breast, and the face is un-
covered, showing the teeth.
At a table in the library. Lord Byron, the poet, studied the
Armenian language; our guide showed, with great satisfaction, his
pen, ink-stand, knife and some autograph letters. We paused, also,
before a line bust of the founder.
When we passed out, we were asked to write our names in
the Visitors' Book. I added, in the space headed " Remarks, " the
fact that I was connected with a club of women that had given
its mite to the fund raised to send Miss Clara Barton to the relief
of the Armenians. You would have been pleased v/ith the result,
I am sure. The monk's face glowed with pleasure and he imme-
diately asked for my card; then he stepped to a door and, calling
another brother, gave an order. Presently, a tray was brought in,
ujion which were two daintv little glasses containing a wonderful
cordial called ^Intsic, and a contection made of red rose leaves.
VF.XICE 265
We partook of these delicacies in the beautiful cloistered court,
where oleanders and roses filled the air with their perfume. In
the center is a fountain; beside it grows a splendid cedar, brought
from Lebanon, and the largest magnolia I have ever seen.
The refectory on the ground floor interested us very much;
there are nine tables, four on a side, and at the upper end, one
for the abbot. They looked most inviting, covered with white
cloths and partly set for the evening meal. The monks are allowed
to have meat, vegetables and confectionery, except on Friday and
Saturday, when only fish and eggs are permitted. It is the cus-
tom at mealtime to say grace in concert. The abbot recites a
prayer, some one of the scholars, a psalm; then all repeat the
Lord's Prayer, after which the meal is eaten in silence, while a
novice reads a bible lesson from the pulpit placed high \x\) on one side
of the room. When the repast is finished, the community give
thanks and retire, the reader for the day dining alone afterwards.
Cleanliness and simplicity abide in this peaceful retreat; the menial
labor is performed entirely by servants.
In the printing office, fifteen compositors, printers and book-
binders are emploved. Most of the books written by the members
of the order, who are all scholars, are printed in Armenian, though
several works have been brought out in other languages, as this
establishment possesses the -type of thirty-five different alphabets.
A literary review is issued every three months. It would have
done you good to see the expression of delight which brightened
the monk's face as Mrs. M. casually mentioned that the Monarch
Book Company had recently published a book on the Armenian cpies-
tion, then sadden, as he replied, "Ah, indeed! Here we have not
that privilege. The Turks never permit us to publish our wrongs. "
There are about eighty members in the order, but thev do
not all live at San Lazzaro. Besides their college in Paris, and
the one in Venice, they have schools in Constantinople and Treb-
izond. Armenian )ouths, who show signs of talent, are intrusted
to their care and receive an education free of charge. They are
destined, upon finishing the course, which covers a period of
twelve years, to be members of the order and, in consequence,
teachers of their people. We saw a band of about thirtv marching
266 I'EXICE
through the corridors, headed In' the instructors; thev ;dl had re-
markably intelhgent faces, but looked very sad; doubtless, on account
of the recent sufferings of their countrymen.
Upon our departure, we were presented with souvenirs in the
shape of little, colored photographs of the island, and a small
pamphlet, giving the history of the order, accompanied by a beau-
tiful bouquet of roses. I can assure you that we glided away
from the hospitable doorwav with manv pleasant thoughts of the
monks of San Lazzaro.
Before leaving Italy, I would like to tell you more of the
people. When one stays so short a time in a country and has no
friends among the upper classes, the best that one can do is to
study the poor, and to do that, it is necessary to mingle with
them. While travelling, we have been well rewarded for the slight
unpleasantness of sitting on uncushioned seats and beside peasants
with grimy hands and faces. The poor are seldom tidy, but, in
happy contrast to their neglect of personal appearance, they are
warm-hearted, and generous to the stranger. For example, one old
woman, with her luncheon tied up in a kerchief, poked over the
dry bread and sausage and fished out two little cakes, evidently
a luxury to her, and holding them out triumphantly, urged us to
accept them. She seemed quite disappointed when we, in our
gentlest manner, assured her that we had plenty to eat in our
lunch-box. Presently, three men, one old and lame, and a young
woman entered the car; it was charming to see the deference
shown to the older man of the party. The three squeezed them-
selves with others into one seat, in order that he of the crutches
might lie down at full length, though, judging from his corpulence
and healthy complexion, he was quite as able to sit up as the
others.
The peasants never enter a car, or leave it, without politely
saluting the occupants, and always seem delighted when I venture
to ask questions, in Italian, about the surrounding country.
We have been in the city four blissful days, and to-night we
return to Milan, on our way to Switzerland. It is a short time
to spend in Venice, but we must be content.
As I write, I can hear the voices of a band of singers sere-
VENICE lb-]
nading some one in a house near by; their voices are delightfully
rich and full.
"I send my heart up to thee, all my
heart
In this my singing.
I'or the stars help me, and the sea
bears part;
The very night is clinging
Closer to \'enice' streets to leave one
space
Above me, whence thy face
May light my joyous heart to thee its
dwelling-place." *
You think, no doubt, that the blue, moonlight pictures of Venice
are an exaggeration. Let me emphasize the fact that on all clear
nights the sky is a pure ultramarine in color, and that the same
deep blue tints the water and the broad pavement of the Piazza.
At this moment, a flood of moonlight is bringing out every detail
of sculpture and every gold-imbedded saint, investing them with a
mystical radiance marvellous to behold.
"I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs;
A palace and a prison on each hand:
I saw from out the wave her structures rise
As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand:
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand
Around me, and a dying Glory smiles
O'er the far times, when many a subject land
Look'd to the winged Lion's marble piles,
Where Venice sate in state, throned on her hundred isles! "f
* Robert Browning,
t Lord Byron.
CHAPTER XIX
SWISS CITIES AND MUNICH
^ , ^, y/i^ took our journe}' from Venice to Milan l.))- easy
^w|^ '^^l^ ip stages, spending a night in the old city of Verona,
where Romeo and Juliet lived, loved and died and
where Juliet's tomb is shown to the credulous. Be-
fore starting for Switzerland, we had a day of
complete rest.
The lakes of northern Italy are picturesque in
the extreme, the most noted being Maggiore and
Como. The district abounds in birds and it is esti-
mated that 6,000 songsters are killed yearly on the shores of
Maggiore, alone. Lake Como lies in a hollow in the mountains
and is much frequented by rich Milanese, who build their summer
homes on its shores. In the celebrated Villa Carlotta, where the
beautiful Charlotte, daughter of Princess Albert of Prussia lived,
is Canova's statue of "Cupid and P.syche."
The Alpine valleys are the most unhealthful sections of Italy.
Goiter and a skin disease are common among the peasants; the
latter is mainly due to the food which is, generally, polenta, a
mush made from an inferior quality of maize.
A couple of American ladies, who left the train at Como,
amused us, greatly. They seemed very much excited and vexed
over something, and, on our inquiring if we could be of any assist-
ance, confessed that they were bound for a town on the lake, the
name of which they could not for the lite of them remember.
They had lost the printed directions for their journey, given them
by a ticket agent. While they stood in despair watching the
omnibuses depart for the steamer landing, a dapper little guide
appeared and, in a trice, suggested the forgotten name. The
discomfited pair recognized it, at once, just in time to catch the
268
270 Sll'/SS CITIES AND MUNICH
last carriage. If one ever feels like an abject idiot, it is when, in
a strange country, the foreign word, indispensable at the nKMiient,
is forgotten.
The St. Gotthard railroad, piercing mountains, spanning gorges
and scaling heights, which seem almost inaccessible, connects with
many important lines of Germany, Holland, Belgium and France.
The great tunnel from Airolo to Gdschenen, generally known as
the St. Gotthard, is nine miles in length. Its construction cost
177 lives. Every tunnel is patrolled by guards and every bridge
is frequently inspected, the greatest care being taken to make the
line absolutely safe.
From the car wmdow, we had a splendid \iew of Bellinzona,
the Caj^ital of Canton Ticino. It completely Ijlocks the valley,
and the hills about are surmounted by feudal castles, the grim
walls telling their own story of ancient warfare.
Near Biasca is the pilgrim church of St. Petronilla, and, all
the way up the mountain, could be seen little shrines, where pil-
grims halt, on their way to the cliurch.
At Airolo, we dashed into the _\awning mouth of the great
tunnel, and, during the next twenty minutes, the roar of the loco-
motive repeated by the echoes nearly deafened us. Strange as it
may seem, the train passed under the village of Andermatt, i,ooct
ft. above, and finallv came out at Goschenen, where we found our-
selves in Switzerland. All the signs were in German and every-
where the proverbial Swiss cleanliness was apparent.
The famous apple scene between Gessler and William 'I ell
occurred at Altdorf, on this line. A small chapel between Im-
mensee and Kiissnacht marks the spot where the tyrant fell, laid
low by Tell's unerring arro\v.
Lucerne at the end of Lake Lucerne, a so known as the Lake of
the Four Forest Cantons, was our first stopping place. It is one
of the most popular resorts in Switzerland, but, as it is early in
the season, many of the best hotels are not yet open and there
are few visitors. Unfortunately, no arrangements are available, as
yet, for ascending the mountains, antl we were obliged to miss the
experience of going up tlie Rigi.
One of the grandest monuments ever erected to l)ra\-crv is the
272
Sir/SS CITIES AXD MCXICH
Lion of Lucerne, designed by the Danish sculptor Thorwaldsen in
commemoration of the defense of the Tuileries by the Swiss guards
in 1792. In the side of a chff, carved in the living rock, is a
great lion, a broken spear protruding from a mortal wound in his
side. His head has fallen on his right paw, which lies on the
Bourbon shield, and forces a spear against the upright arms of
Switzerland. Every muscle of the splendid beast is relaxed, yet
each shows the strength he possessed before receiving the fatal
thrust. Beneath tlic niche where the lion is stretched, is a Latin
GLACIER GARDEN, LUCERNE
inscription; a beautiful fountain plays in front, and shadows are
cast upon the memorial by the delicate green foliage of some trees.
We came away feeling as if we had seen something sacred; a
shrine, before which homage should be paid.
Above this spot is the Glacier Garden, with the mills that
have been discovered since the beginning of this century. Glaciers
are immense fields of ice and snow, formed in the region of per-
petual snow, which move slowly down into the valleys. J. D.
Forbes savs that "Each portion of a glacier moves, not with a
constant velocit\-, but in a continuous manner. * * * The ice
2 74 SII'/S.S CITIES AXD MUNICH
in the middle part of the glacier moves much faster than that near
the sides or banks; also the surface moves faster than the bottom.
Both these facts obtam in the motion of a river, in consequence
of the friction of the fluid on its banks and in consequence also of
that internal friction of the fluid which constitutes its viscositv.
The glacier, like a stream, has its pools and its rapids. Where
it is embayed bv rocks, it accumulates; its declivity increases and
its velocity, at the same time. " Mr. Forbes found, in taking ob-
servations upon glaciers, that some melted at the rate of 17.4
inches in 25 J^ hrs. , in the month of June, and that the motion
of the glacier continues even in winter.
The glacier mills are probably formed by the moving field of
ice as it passes over a small boulder lying in a hollow of a flat
rock, or even in a pool. The continual grinding of the glacier
naturallv causes the boulder to revolve and, in time, to form a
spiral hole in the rock. In the Glacier Garden there are several
of these holes, with the boulders in the bottom, dating from the
glacial period.*
In a small park adjoining are some mountain chamois, a species
of antelope with bright brown eyes and the blackest of horns. A
stripe of orange down the nostrils makes a sharp and altogether
pleasing contrast in color. They are the prettiest little creatures
finable.
One morning, we took the steamer for Alpnach, on our way
to Interlaken. The Lake of the Four Forest Cantons is very
irregular in outline, and, as the steamer stops at many places on
both shores, we had constantlv changing views of the Rigi, Pilatus
and the solemn, old Stanserhorn.
From Alpnach we went by train through the glorious \-alley
of Obwalden where farms were laid out as evenly as the squares
on a checkerboard. The housewives of the pretty little chalets
had hung their feather beds and pillows out to air on the balconies,
where the morning sun was shining brightest. Fat cattle were
feeding on the hillsides, the bell tied to the neck of each cow
giving a tinkle that was delightfully pastoral.
* Prehistoric.
276 SIIV.SS CITIES AND MUXICH
The lakes of Sarnen and Lungern are a deep green reflecting
the fir-covered mountains. The tender green of the young shoots
is sharply defined against the older and darker foliage.
We entered the Bernese Oberland b)' the Briinig Pass, whence
the road to Meiringen and Brienz follows the river Aare in the
valley below. Its banks are so walled with stone, and its course
so even as to deceive us into thinking that it was a canal.
At the Lake of Brienz another steamer was waiting to take
us to Interlaken. Gliding along on the limpid waters toward the
setting sun, we neared a narrow channel, where the spurs of the
rugged mountains almost met. Far below their towering peaks
some heavy storm clouds had gathered, and hung over the opening,
where they seemed about to dash their weight of moisture upon us.
All at once, a rift appeared in the clouds and the sun burst
through, lighting up the verdure on our left; while on the right,
all was still and dark.
Interlaken lies in the valley between the Lakes of Thun and
Brienz. "The oldest inhabitant" loves to tell a legend which
runs in this fashion: — God ordered the Garden of Eden removed
from the earth at the time of Adam's fall. As his angels were
passing over the Alps with their burden, they were so enchanted
with the sight of the beautiful, white Jungfrau and the two azure
lakes beneath, that they could not resist leaving a part of the
garden (Lauterbrunnen), at the foot of the mountain, and another,
between the two lakes. The people named this grassy plain,
' Tnterlaken, '■ which means "between the lakes." Here the air is
as soft and balmy as that of a semi-tropical clime; the ramparts of
the mountain ranges protect the valley on the north and south,
while through the lake openings to the east and west, a fresh cur-
rent of air continually circulates. The lower slopes of the moun-
tains are covered with beech trees, and in the town is a fine avenue
of giant walnuts, the Huheweg, bordered on one side b}- the prin-
cipal hotels, which face the Jungfrau, standing like a bride clad
all in white, the central figure in the landscape. Upon either side,
as you view her from Interlaken, are two black peaks, like stern
guardians, as forbidding as she is lovely.
One evening we walked down the avenue of linden and chest-
.siryss CITIES axd Munich
277
nut trees that leads toward the Jungfrau. On both sides of this
lovers' lane are broad meadows white with caraway. About a
quarter of a mile from the Hoheweg, we entered a village of quaint
chalets. Some of them were veiled by purple wistaria, leaving only
space enough for the diamond-paned windows to peep out. A
house built in 1745 still looked strong and well preserved; an in-
scription ran across the entire front, the letters being cut into the
wood and blackened. We noticed that the roofs were weighted
with huge stones to prevent the strong winds, which sometimes
sweep the valley, from raising
them. Around the town pump,
with its long stone trough, the
women gather to wash the
family linen, beating and rins-
ing the garments, and chatter-
ing, in the meantime, like mag-
pies. Everything about the
houses had a tidy appearance;
the great wood piles spoke of
comfort during the long winters ;
the sleek cows and the fowls in
the barnvards, as well as the
flowering fruit trees, betokened
plenty in the larder. Mothers
were nursing their babies on the
doorsteps, and some little boys,
in funny, green cloth pinafores,
caught together in the back with
a brass hook and chain, were
playing in the road. Follow-
ing a steep path, for a con-
siderable distance, we finally
reached the Hotel Jungfraublick, situated, as its name implies, so
as to command a fine view of the favorite mountain. While we
stood there, in the twilight, gazing over the parapet at her beautv,
the young wife (Jungfrau) slowly drew her mantle of fleecy, white
clouds about her and retired from our view into the arms of Night.
STAUBBACH CASCADE
278 .S7r/.S.S' CITIES AND MUNICH
Early the next morning, we greeted her, rosy and fresh from
her slumbers, as we drove from Interlaken through the smiling
valley of Lauterbrunnen to the town of the same name. Near the
little village of Wilderswyl, some woodmen were chopping down
trees for winter fuel. All along the way, on the right, rise steep
mountains; clear streams dash down from their summits in narrow
cascades over rocks made smooth and shining by their passage.
By means of channels under the roadway they join the mad I'iver
Liitschine, which rushes along on the left. Once, a goatherd ran
panting up the road after us, to inquire if we had seen two stray
pfoats, and we were able to inform him that thev were clambering
up a side hill just aheaci, their l,)clls making music in the stillness.
I do not marvel at the superstitions of the simple, mountain
folk. Nature speaks to them in voices that we cannot hear. I do
not wonder at their belief in mountain giants and dwarfs, in
tjuaint tales of imaginary creatures, for it seemed as if a demon
surely possessed the wild stream that leaped against the boulders,
gathering new strength to pursue its onward course.
Further on, coming in sight of a quaint halntation almost
hidden bv fruit trees, we were so charmed, that we decided to
visit it. Leaving our carriage and crossing a rickety bridge over
the river, we climbed the path to the door. A pleasant-faced,
elderly woman, who spoke very good French, met us half wa\- and
ushered us into the living room. The bare rafters were thitk with
soot which hung in festoons; upon a stone platform was a small
stove where a fish was cooking in a pot of boiling fat. We in-
voluntarily exclaimed at the appetizing odor; whereupon, our hostess
immediately insisted upon our eating the fish, which, with an ac-
companiment of warm goat's milk and fresh bread, proved to be
delicious. The pretty, blue-eyed daughter of the house bustled
about, assisting her mother to do the honors, and, when we de-
parted, presented us with a bouipift. The lather, a stalwart son
of the mountains, seemed very much delighted, when, on reading
our cards, he found we were from America, and asked all sorts of
questions. In this simple home, where the seats were wooden
benches, and thc^ crockery, modest brown and blue ware, the calico
gowns of the women were whole and clean, and their hair was
Sir/SS CITIES AXD MUXICII
279
neatly arranged. Tlie Swiss peasants are invariably tidy and in-
dustrious; a pleasant contrast to Italian country folk, who seem to
have little use for water or combs.
An air of antitjuitv lingers about Thun, wherr modern fashions
have not yet obliterated all traces of the old-tmie customs. Satur-
A-\y, when we arrived, was market day; then, the people come
down from the mountains and bargain at the queer little shops
underneath the sidewalk of the upper and grander ones. Millinery
PRiNCiPAL STREET IN THUN
is displayed under one awning and, perhaps next door, is the meat
market, and the hardware shop. In the street, women stand all
day, chopping wood which they sell for fuel.
The ri\-er Aare flows through the center of the town, and there
is space only for a narrow sidewalk between the houses and the
water.
High above the town, on an eminence, towers the Castle of
Thun, built by the Counts of Kyburg in the 12th century. It is
a massive, square building with four towers constructed of small
2«0
SJF/SS CITIES AND MUNICH
boulders cemented together; the foundation walls are fifteen feet
thick. Narrow windows, with iron gratings, far above the ground,
give it a feudal aspect, increased by a drawbridge, though the moat
is filled up and grass-grown. We mounted the worn stone steps
which wind up to the third story, where the Great Hall extends
CASTLE OF THUN
across the main part of the castle. Upon its walls are displayed
the armor, escutcheons, shields and lances belonging to the Counts
of Kyburg, and the flags won in battle. You would admire the
carved oaken chests, evidently coffers for money, with combination
locks, the mechanism of which covers the entire inside of the lid.
There was a bed inclosed in panelled woodwork with doors that
locked, and lattice windows in the upper part. Within its inclosure
the old lord could rest secure from murderous attacks, and fair
dames could sleep sweetly, without fear of a creeping Tarquin.
After examining the seals and mammoth drinking horns, we
.V/;7.S-.S- CITIES AND MUNICH
passed through a trapdoor and down a stone stairway into tlie
kitchen and servants' quarters, below; lower still, were the dun-
geons. An outer building, evidently of later date, is now used as
the city prison. The castle commands a magnificent view; the
Niesen, 7,763 ft. in height, rising upon one side, the Jura range
on the other, Thun being below in the valley of the Aare.
Adjacent to the castle are the old church and cemetery, the
latter with its tombstones in a very dilapidated condition. Just as
we were ascending the steps of the church, the sacristan, a mel-
ancholy old fellow in a
black gown and cap, in-
formed us that nine babies
were about to be christ-
ened. We entered and
seated ourselves near the
font; in a short time, the
infants appeared in the
arms of their peasant
mothers. The women
wore the costume of this
district; a dark skirt,
black velvet bodice, white
chemisette and gay,
striped apron. The roll-
ing collar of the high
bodice was embroidered
with silver; filigree chains
fell from the upper edge
of the bodice under the arms, somewhat below the waist line, and
were fastened behind the shoulders. Each child was incased in a
linen slip, folded over the feet and buttoned to the waist in front.
It projected in the back, beyond the head, in a stiff, oval piece
edged with fluted lace. The mothers arranged themselves in a row
on one side of the font; the fathers, on the other, looking ex-
tremely uncomfortable, as if they were unaccustomed to their Sun-
day clothes. A ceremony, similar to the Episcopalian, followed.
The clergyman, a young man gowned in black, was a trifle too
LAKE OF THUN
282
SJIVSS CITIES AND MiW'ICH
vigorous in dashing the water on the first cherub, who proceeded
to yell its disapproval; after that incident, he dabbed the foreheads
of the other eight as gingerly as possible, and seemed very much
relieved when the last mother had made her little curtsy and
passed on.
The hotel where we stopped was unique. Built for a monas-
tery in the 1 2th rcnturv, it has been an inn since 1319. It was
A SWiSS MILKMAN
of stone, with broad arches, and there was a paved court for car-
riages in the center.
The beds were made up in the usual Swiss or German st}le.
There was a mattress covered with a sheet, and, above it, incased
in white slips, were two feather lieds, one large and one small; the
smaller, too large for one's feet, and the larger, too small for one's
body. Between the two, we spent the greater part of the night,
scrambling for shelter and wishing we were men, so that we might
say something appropriate to the occasion. Once, when I awoke
Mrs. M. with my fussing, she suggested that I might fasten ribbons
to the two feather beds and tie them about my neck. Of course,
we had a tile stove, standing white and tall; so like a tombstone
in the darkness, that, waking from a "catnap" under the evasive
A WOMAN OF THUN
284 Sff/SS CITIES AND AfUXfCH
coverlet, one is startled into thinking that Gabriel must have blown
his horn.
As we journeyed from Thun to Berne, on Sunday afternoon
last, we encountered many peasants, who were taking little pleasure
trips. It was refreshing to see their sinewy, well-developed figures
and clear complexions. The Swiss, though not handsome, are a
thrifty race and proverbially honest. We became so accustomed to
bargaining in Ital}-, that, when pricing an ornament of carved
wood in a shop one day, I asked the saleswoman her lowest terms.
She seemed quite insulted, and said that they did not have two
prices.
The capital stands on a peninsula formed by the river
Aare, and its situation is especially beautiful, tor more mountain
ranges are visible than from any other city in Switzerland. It is
the seat of a university and boasts fine museums and libraries.
Magnificent avenues of chestnut, maple and ash trees traverse the
old part of Berne, and the river is spanned by fine bridges, the
most notable being the Nydeck Bridge, which has the largest
stone arch in the world, with a span of 164 ft. The second stories
of the shops and houses are supported by stone arches and extend
over the sidewalk. Such arcades are most comfortable on hot or
wet days, though the shops are dark.
Grotesque fountains are characteristic of Berne, the most
curious of them being the "Bagpiper," the "Ogre" and the "Zah-
ringen." The "Ogre" represents a Jew in the act of devouring a
fat baby, while several others are tucked in his wallet; this fountain
is said to commemorate the murder of a Christian child, in 1287.
It is to the third, dating from 1542, that we turned with the
greatest interest. The bear is the heraldic emblem of Berne, so
it shows Bruin in full armor with shield, sword and dagger, the
banner of Berthold von Ziihringen, the founder of the city, in his
right paw- The design of the bear is seen everywhere in Berne;
the shops abound in wooden ones, and there has been a p.t of
live bears near the Nydeck Bridge since the 15th century.
The most remarkable of the old city gates left standing is the
clock tower, with a calendar clock. "Whenever it strikes the hour
a procession of little bears comes out and describes a circle around
286
SWISS CITIES AXD MUXICH
an old man in a sitting posture, holding in one hand a sceptre
and in the other an hour-glass. The old man turns the hour-glass
and counts with his sceptre and, I)v opening his mouth, every
OGRE FOUNTAIN, BERN
stroke of the hour. Before the hour strikes a cock crows three times;
when it has done striking, the cock crows once more. Another
little wooden man rings two little bells, when the hour is going to
strike. At the top of the tower are the striking-bells inside a
helmet, near which stands the Duke of Ziihringen in full armour,
striking with a sceptre the hour."
The Museum of Natural History possesses a rare collection of
eagles, fierce denizens of the mountain crags, with proudly poised
heads and powerful talons. There, we also saw the stufied bodv
BAG PIPER FOUNTAIN, BERN
288
SiriSS CITIES AND MUNICH
of the famous St. Bernard dog, Barry, said to have saved the lives
of at least forty persons lost in the snow, on the Great St. Bernard
Pass. He is a fine specimen, with short, thick hair and pointed
nose, and still wears his collar of spiked iron. When in Thun, we
went to see a number of these dogs, owned by a wealthy gentle-
man. They were worth from $500 to $2,000, each.
In the cellar of the old Corn House is the great wme cask that
holds 35,200 qts. It is decorated with the Bernese coat of arms,
a black bear with red
claws, on a scarlet ban-
ner crossed bv a strip of
gold. In the year 1719,
this cellar was so filled
with wine, that it was
said, ' 'Venice is built on
water, but Berne, on
wine. "
We visited the Fed-
eral Council Hall, walk-
^^'^'^'^ ing down the long corri-
dor to the President's offices; then, going up into the empty Senate
Chamber, a simply furnished hall, the arrangement of which is quite
like our own.
That evening, a concert was given in the Cathedral of St.
Vincent, where there is one of the most wonderful organs that it
has ever been my privilege to hear. The church was dimly lighted
and, as the deep, throbbing tones of the instrument echoed through
the Gothic arches, my soul seemed lifted up and borne away on
the wings of sound, coming back to earth onlv when the last note
had died away.
W^e spent the afternoon of June 3rd in Zurich, the "Athens
of Switzerland, " taking a carriage in order to see something of the
city, before leaving on the evening train for Munich.
The University and the Polytechnic School are situated on a
steep hill overlooking the town. We sent our special letter to Prof.
Wolfer of the Astronomical Observatory, and received a cordial
greeting. In asking questions about American men of science, he
SlIVSS CITIES AND MUNICH
289
discovered that Allen L. Colton of the Lick Observatory, was, at
one time, a classmate of Mrs. M. They had an enjoyable chat
about their mutual friend, whom the Swiss scientist comjilimented
very his^hly. He showed us several rooms in the building, and
then conducted us up to the dome and exhibited the sun spots to be
seen at that hour; three were reflected upon a sheet of white paper.
-L AT ZURICH
The big telescope swings in the dome, which revolves at the pleasure
of the astronomer.
The Historical Museum contains an interesting collection of
relics proving that a race of lake dwellers existed in Switzerland,
in the 2nd century B. C. They lived in thatched cottages built
on piles in the shallow waters of the lakes, and rude household
utensils, knives, spears, pins, needles, and even petrified bread have
been discovered at the bottom of Lake Constance and other small
bodies of fresh water.
Crossing Lake Constance, we travelled all night through cool
forests of pine, and arrived in Munich, the capital of Bavaria, at
19
SJF/SS CITIES AXn MUNICH
2gi
six this morning. It seemed so queer to find women sweeping the
streets! They go about bareheaded and chatter over their work, as
happily as it' in their own kitcliens.
Naturally, our chief interest in this city of pictures, lay in the
art collections of the Old and the New Pinakothek. * There, is a
portrait of Angelica Kauti'mann, f painted bv herself. At twelve
years of age, she had bishops
and nobles for her sitters, and
became so famous as a painter,
that she was admitted to the
Royal Academy of London.
From 1769 to 1782, "she was
an annual exhibitor, sending
sometimes as many as seven
pictures, generally classic or al-
legorical subjects. " ' 'After this
she produced but little, and in
November, 1807, she died, "(at
Rome,) "being honoured by a
splendid funeral under the direc-
tion of Canova. The entire
Academy of St. Luke, with
numerous ecclesiastics and \ irtu-
osi, followed her to her tomb in
S. Andrea delle Frate, and, as
at the burial of Raphael, two
of her best pictures were carried
in procession." "Winckelmann b-R£E- ^
refers to her exceeding popularity:" "She spoke Italian as well as
German, "he says; "and she also expressed herself with facility in
French and English, — one result of the last named accomplish-
ment being that she painted all the English visitors to the
Eternal City."
There, also, is Murillo's painting of the "Boys Eating Grapes,"
* Picture gallery.
f A Swiss painter, 1742-1807.
PETER PAUL RUBENS
1
^^■j
1
^Av»l^*
^ fi^^^^^^^l
1
^1^^^'^
4^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H
L ■ ^ >s»
' Vt^6^
1
ANGELICA KAUFFMAN
294
SUVSS CITIES AND MUNICH
and a splendid collection of pictures by that most prolific of painters,
Peter Paul Rubens, the Flemish master, born in Westphalia, in
1577. When he reached manhood, he was not only possessed of
great personal attractions and an excellent education, but had de-
veloped his natural talents to a surprising degree. No less than
1,300 compositions are said to have come from his hands. His
first wife was Isabella Brandt; his second, Helena Fourmcnt; both
THE HALL OF FAME, MUNICH
were young and beautiful and figure conspicuously in his jiictures.
Their portraits hang in the Old Pinakothek. Rubens died in 1640,
rich, famous and in the fullness of his powers. Personally, I am
not an admirer of the style of Rubens; his figures are too ffeshly
and often too unwieldy to be beautiful, but his drawing and color-
ing are marvellous.
The Hall of Fame, built in the classic style, is one of the
show places here. It was intended to serve as a gallery for the statues
and portraits of the great men of the country. The bronze figure
of Bavaria, sixty-two feet in height, stands before it, and dwarfs
the otherwise beautiful structure.
Much to our disappointment, all puljlic buildings were closed
to-day after one o'clock. However, we enjoyed a drive to Nymphen-
BOY EATiNG GRAPES
RUBENS' SECOND WIFE AND CHILD
SIl'/SS CITIES AND MUNICH
297
burg, once the favorite castle of Max Joseph I. The gardens with
their lakes, fountains and flowers were a grateful change from the
round of galleries and museums.
Several regiments of cavalr)- and infantry paraded the streets
this morning and were stunning, with their plumed helmets; nearly
CASTLE BERG
ever}' man was broad-chested, erect, and had a complexion to be
envied.
In Bavaria, one is often reminded of the mad King Ludwig
II. Royal palaces with splendid parks and artificial grottoes, where
the extravagant monarch lived at different times, are scattered all
over the kingdom. He committed suicide in June, 1886, by drown-
ing himself in the Lake of Starnberg in front of Schloss Berg.
The present King of Bavaria is also insane, and the country is
ruled by a regent, greatly beloved by the people.
CHAPTER XX
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
,/'.■
E left Munich on the morning- of June 4th, expecting,
when we purchased a through ticket to Vienna, to
reach there at six in the evening. However, after
leaving the city, we discovered that we had been
misinformed and should not arrive until ten. Here
was a "pretty kettle of fish. " Our German, vocabu-
lar\' is hmited to such phrases as, "Wieviel?" "Ein
Zimmer mit zwei Betten, " "Heisses Wasser, " and
Frisches Wasser."'^'' Nevertheless, we determined to
get oft at some way station and trust to luck in getting our tickets
vised, f rather than enter a large city after nightfall.
The bill of fare in a German railroad restaurant is generally
limited to sausages, rolls, eggs and fruit. We had partaken of
these delicacies until our very souls revolted. So, at noon, when
we stopped for luncheon, and our searching glances could find nothing
new on the counter, we were in despair. After a vain att(>mpt, in
several languages, to make the restaurant keeper understand what
we wanted, we suddenly spied a man seated at one of the tables,
with a jilate of cold ham before him. Encouraged b\' Mrs. M.
and without stopping to think ot the pcissible result of such an
action, I walked across the room and, with a deprecatory "pardon
me," took the plate from under his nose, and bore it in triumph
to the counter, where mine host was made to understand that we
wanted the same edible. I then returned the ham to its gaping
owner, with thanks. Bv that time, nearh' every one in the room
*" How much?" "One room with two beds," "Hot water," and " Fresh
water."
■j" Indorsed as stop-over tickets.
298
300
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
was interested in us, and, after we sat down to our coveted meal,
two young Tyrolese addressed us, asking, in French, if they could
be of any assistance; at the same time, complimenting us on our
pluck.
At four o'clock, we had to change cars at the small village of
Amstetten; so, ''bag and baggage," we left the train. As soon
as it had pulled out of the station, I approached an official and
asked him for stop-over tickets. As we feared, he could not un-
derstand. Just then, I remembered the German words, "Morgen"
(to-morrow) and "Gut" (good). Pointing to our tickets, and then
towards the fast receding train, I said inquiringly, "Gut, Morgen?"
A bystander comprehended, sought the station master and had them
properly stamped. Not being sure, even then, that all was right, I
asked everybody about the station, if the tickets were "Gut, ''and
they all laughed and said, "Ja, Ja!" so, at length, I was satisfied.
We passed a comfortable night, and, next morning, proceeded
on our journey. At Alt-Oetting, where there is a noted pilgrimage
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
301
church, with a miraculous picture of the Virgin, the Austrian gen-
eral, Tilly, a hero of the Thirty Years' War, is buried. At this
station, a company of peasants boarded the train. No sooner were
they seated, than they began a weird chant, the soprano and tenor
VOTIVE CHURCH, VIENNA
voices taking up the first strains, followed by the alto and basso;
but they never sang in chorus.
The country through which we travelled touched the outskirts
of the Bavarian and Bohemian Forests, where the pale green of
the larches formed a high light against the deep shadows of the pines.
The farms were the richest we have seen. The grain is in fine con-
dition, as well as the kitchen gardens. It is said that about one-
fifth of the annual yield is wheat; one-fourth, rye; one-fourth, oats;
one-seventh, maize; one-seventh, barley, and the rest buckwheat and
millet. Nearly all the farmhouses were thatched with straw. The
302
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
men, among the peasants we have seen, wear soft felt hats and
green vests; the women, a square of silk over their heads, knotted
behind the ears, with the ends hanging down.
There are a number of powerful and wealthy religious orders
in Austria. A Benedictine Abbey at Melk is large enough to
house a village. There are 214 windows on the side of the build-
ing, facing the station.
As we approached Vienna, we were almost appalled by its
magnitude. The city is located on a canal, the southern arm of
the Danube, and in a great plain encircled by far away mountains.
I^omans claimed pos-
Aurelius, called "the
The ' ' Com iiromise "
PARLl.\:.iL;.r LL,,_„ i. jo, V.LNtiA
It was once a Celtic colony, but the
session of it from time to time. Marcus
noblest of pagans, " died within its walls,
concluded by Austria and Hungary in 1867 made Budapest the
capital of the eastern half of the empire and, with Vienna, an
alternative residence of the court. Ever since, the reigning sov-
ereign has been designated as the ' ' Emperor of Austria and King
of Hungary."
In driving from the station to the center of the city, we were im-
pressed bv the strength of the architecture, the breadth and cleanli-
ness of the streets, and, moreover, by the beauty of the public
fountains, and the statues that are to be found at almost every turn.
MARIA THERESA MONUMENT
304 VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
After engaging rooms at the Hotel Wandl, near the Graben,*
we drove to the American Consulate, to make some inquiries about
our trip into Hungary. The consul, Mr. Judd, is very pleasant
and attentive to his countrymen. He had secured a box at the
Volks Theater for that evening, to entertain a gentleman and his
wife from New York, and asked us to join the party; an invitation
which we were glad to accept. He then escorted us to the office
of the Cunard Steamship Co., and assisted in securing our return
passage on the Umbria.
That day, we made a tour of the great Ring Strasse, a cir-
cular street i86 ft. wide. With the Franz Josef quay, it surrounds
the inner city and marks the line of the old ramparts. From an
architectural point of view, the Ring Strasse is, perhaps, the finest
street in Europe. Here, is the Gothic Votive Church, erected in
commemoration of the Emperor's escape from assassination, in
1853; the University; the Hofburg Theater; the Gothic Town
Hall, costing 15,000,000 florins, f and the magnificent Houses of
Parliament. The latter were designed in the Greek style I)_\- Han-
sen, whose work in Athens we so much admired. The superb
peristyle is supported by twenty-four monoliths of marble and
adorned with a frieze representing historical events, in fresco. Bronze
quadrigae \ and marble statues complete the decorations of the
wings.
The Maria Theresa Platz, a square dedicated to Austria's
illustrious empress, opens upon the Ring Strasse and presents an
imposing sight. In the center is her bronze and marble monument,
forty-three feet in height. No Austrian sovereign has ever been so
well beloved as this high-minded woman, who reigned fort3--one
years. Facing the Platz are the Royal Museums; the one on the
west, devoted to natural history, the one on the east, to art. We
are pleased to see so many American specimens in the Natural
Histoi-y Museum; among them is an enormous meteor trom Ten-
nessee; also, the finest collection of Aztec idols (one, of jade) extant.
* Important business street.
f About forty cents.
\ Chariot drawn by four horses abreast.
COUNTESS WILCZEK-KINSKY
3o6 VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
The ill-fated Emperor of Mexico, Maximilian, was an Austrian and,
doubtless, sent home many Mexican curios. A head-dress of pea-
cock feathers, once worn by Montezuma, is on exhibition. It is
fully four feet high, and made of fine, eyeless feathers, the head
band elaborately decked with beaten gold disks. In the crystal
room is the jewel-bouquet that Maria Theresa gave to her husband,
Francis I., to whom she bore sixteen children. It is in a vase of
rock crystal and is valued at ^6,000. There are lilies and daisies
made of white onyx, with diamond centers; pansies of amethysts;
narcissus of agate; forget-me-nots of turquoise; wheat-ears of moon-
stones with diamond tips and emerald leaves, and rosebuds of
single, pear-shaped rubies.
The carriage of the consul was at our hotel at a quarter before
seven, for the performance in Austrian playhouses begins at seven.
The New Yorkers were charming, and we enjoyed "Little Lord
Fauntleroy, " and, also, the opportunity to see some of the beauti-
ful women of Vienna, who occupied the boxes. Since the burning
of the Ring Theater in 1881, when 400 lives were lost, the theaters
in Vienna are required to have iron drop curtains.
As the consul had been so thoughtful as to procure tickets of
admission to the Royal Treasury, for the entire part}', we started
the next morning for the Hofburg, the imperial palace, where it is
situated. The Treasury contains objects of historic interest, the
value of which is inestimable. In ancient times, kings carried their
treasures about with them, sometimes, even to war. In a case in
the first room, were Charlemagne's crown, scepter and sword; in
another, his mantle and gloves thickly embroidered with gold and
seed pearls. This monarch is said to have been nine feet tall, and
one does not doubt the tale, when he sees the proportions of this
outfit. Among the famous relics were the spear of St. Maurice; a
eold case, said to contain the arm bone of St. Anne; a tooth of
John the Baptist, and a superbly jewelled casket inclosing earth
saturated with the blood of St. Stephen, the first Christian king
of Hungar)'. Whenever the reigning sovereign desires to venerate
it, the high priest opens the casket. We saw the silver and gold
cradle presented by France to Napoleon's son, and the crown jewels,
including the Austrian imperial diadems. There was a superb col-
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
307
iAwsi to Maria Theresa, which she caused to
lection of jewels belon
be deposited in this treasury, after the death of her husband. The
set of emeralds includes a watch composed of a single, large stone
in which the works are imbedded.
Although the order of St. Stephen is the most important in
ELISABETH, EMPRESS OF AUSTRIA
Austria, that of the Golden Fleece is probably the most celebrated
in the world. Its emblem is a lambskin pendant, the head and
feet of the animal hanging down together, as it is fastened by the
middle. Above, is an ornamental device. A rich collar, which we
saw in the treasury, is sometimes worn by the Order.
ST. STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL, VIENNA
3IO
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
The Romanesque Cathedral of St. Stephen is the most im-
portant cliurch in Vienna ; its lofty towers and tile roof are promi-
nent features of the landscape. On the north wall of the interior,
is a curious decoration in the shape of a stone figure of the archi-
TOMB OF MARIA CHRISTINA
tect, with rule and compass in hand, lookini^' through a small
window.
In contrast to the grand cathedral is the humble church of the
Capuchin monks, where most of the royal family have been interred.
Following the friar in charge down a dark stone stairway, we entered
/7A'.\.\./ .l.\D BUDAPEST 311
the vaults containing,- the double, bronze sarcophagus of Maria
Theresa and her husband, Francis I. Upon the lid are their life-
size effigies, half reclining on cushions and looking directly at each
other. Near by, is Marie Louise, Napoleon's second wife, and also,
her son. We bowed our heads, for a moment, beside the coffin of
poor Maximilian, who was "more sinned against than sinning."
According to an ancient custom, the hearts of all the cMiiperors
and empresses, since Matthias, are inclosed in gold and sih-er urns,
which are kept in a small chapel in the old Augustine Church.
One can peep into the little room through iron bars. The urns
stand in rows upon a raised slab of stone, like jars of preserves on
a pantry shelf, if the simile is allowable. In the church is the
celebrated monument, by Canova, in honor of the Archduchess
Maria Christina; it is a p}-ramid of white marble, with the door
open. A procession is walking up the broad steps and entering
the door of the tomb; childhood, youth and old age are represented
with bent heads and bearing inverted torches. Opposite, on the
right, is a lion, and the reclining figure ot an angel.
The greatest musicians the world has ever known lie in Cen-
tral Cemetery, Vienna. It is magnificently kept, and has hne
avenues of locust and cypress trees, trimmed to form alcoves in
which monuments are placed. As we approached the part sacred
to music, we saw a triangular grassplot with the design of a colossal
harp, in ffowering plants. About it are the monuments of Mozart,
Beethoven, Schubert and Gluck. The painters and architects, who
have been an honor to their countr\', are also buried in a special
plot.
One day we had a view of Vienna from the top of the Kalilen-
berg, a mountain overlooking the city. The little steam engine on
the rack-and-pinior line juiUed us slowly to the toji, through thick
pine and beech woods. Mountain flowers bloomed in wildest pro-
fusion at the roadside. The view from the hotel veranda, where
we had our dinner, was glorious, embracing the spurs of the Car-
pathians, and the Styrian Alps. Beside one of the steep footpaths
of the Kahlenberg, is a bust of Beethoven, marking the spot where
the master often rested. With his reserved temperament, solitude
was a boon. The picturesque beauty of the mountains tamed the
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST 313
fiery spirit, and, under their spell, the musical mysteries of that
wondrous brain were unra\elled. The world enjoys life the better,
because he gave it so much that is harmonious to the ear, and in
the words of Celia Thaxter: —
"If God speaks anywhere, in any voice.
To us his creatures, surely here and now
We hear liiin, while the great chords seem to bow
Our heads, and all the s\'niphony's breathless
noise
Breaks over us, with challenge to our souls'
Beethoven's music! From the mountain peaks
The strong, divine, compelling thunder rolls;"
Baron Nathaniel von Rothschild lives in the citv in a fine man-
sion surrounded bv a garden, but his greenhouses and park are in
Ddbling, a suburb. He charges an admission fee of fifty kreutzers,
hall a florin, tor the privilege of looking at his treasures, though
he is rich enough to let all the world take a penny from his coffers.
There are half a hundred greenhouses, the fancy ones being re-
arranged, weekly. On the porch of the head gardener's house are
fastened several grotesque tree trunks, one grown in the shape of
a woman's head, another, a satyr's. In one of the orchid houses,
we saw the Aristolochia Grandiflora, fourteen inches in length, the
largest flower known. A fern house contains a bed of moss four
feet high and twenty feet square, on which are scattered gloxinias,
begonias and purple violets. Above it is a swinging aquarium with
an inner globe in which were two canaries hopping about on a
twig, while a goldfish swam between their glass cage and the outer
globe. As there is little air in the inner compartment, the birds
are only kept there two hours at a time.
In the fruit houses are pots containing strawberry plants, on
each of which there were from three to seven berries, some of
them two inches in diameter. Luscious peaches, cherries and plums
hung from dwarf trees, and great clusters of grapes swung from
the roof and tempted us to break the tenth commandment.
A steam tram took us to Schonbrunn, the imperial park and
castle, once the hunting-lodge of the Emperor ^latthias. Miles of
3i6
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
forest are traversed by fine roads, and, radiating from the castle,
are broad paths flanked by close cut hedges, with here and there
a fountain or a statue. From the Gloriette, a fine colonnade on
the hill, we could see across the country for miles, and down paths
where the trees are trimmed to form solid walls of green.
The apartments of Maria Theresa, within the castle, are luxuri-
ous; especially the room, on the decorations of which she is said
to have spent a million florins. The walls and ceiling are of wood
mosaic set with delicate, Japanese paintings on porcelain. Upon
SUSPENSION BRIDGE, BUDAPEST
the same floor is the litde room once occupied by Maria Theresa's
daughter, Marie Antoinette, who became Queen of France.
There are several public parks in the center of Vienna, and
here, in the evening, people congregate to drink beer or coffee,
and listen to the military bands; sections of these parks are in-
closed by fences, and an admission fee is charged, enabling those
of the upper classes to be by themselves, if they so desire.
On the morning of June 7th we left Vienna, by steamer, for
Budapest. The sky was alternately cloudy and bright, affording
opportunities to study the effects of light and shade on the
"Beautiful Blue Danube." At the Lobau, a wooded island, Na-
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST 317
poleon crossed the Danube, and there had his headquarters during
the battle of Wagram. On we ghded, past the spurs of the Little
Carpathians, with, now and then, a ruined castle or monastery to
relieve the monotony of the landscape. Late in the day, there
burst upon our sight a dazzling vision, an ideal city, b;itlicd in
the golden glory of the setting sun. On the slopes to our right,
was Ofen, more commonly known as Buda, with the Fortress and
Royal Palace; on the left. Pest; while, in the background, rose
the old citadel of Blocksberg. Across the river sweep splendid
bridges. The Suspension Bridge, with its stone lions, is one
of the largest in Europe. All were bright with pennants, and
from every tower and turret floated the red, white and green of
Hungarv.
As the steamer touched the landing below the Franz Joseph
quay, we could see gaily dressed throngs upon this favorite prom-
enade. Lounging against trees or leaning over parapets, eyeing
their more fortunate brethren, were peasants from the outlying
districts. The mothers carried their babies in their arms, and the
lunch bags were slung over the shoulders of the men. The latter
wore the Magyar skirt of white cloth with a round jacket; the
women were clad in short, full skirts, gold-embroidered belts and
high-topped boots, and bright-colored kerchiefs were tied over
their heads. Old women, with green, earthen pitchers of water,
refreshed the thirsty, in return for a small coin. All were in a
joyous mood, for, on the morrow, the}' were to behold the great
procession celebrating the thousandth anniversary of the establish-
ment of their kingdom.
We had been warned again and again that we could not
secure accommodations at Budapest, as every place was over-
crowded, and it was with some anxiet}' that we disembarked upon
the Franz Joseph quay, at the very doors of the large hotels.
Going at once to the Bristol, we were informed that they could
not give us a bed, as even their billiard rooms were engaged;
however, they referred us to a private house near by. There, we
secured a comfortable room for five florins per day, with a cheery
familv of Hungarians, and considered ourselves the luckiest people
abroad.
3i8
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
A rain laid the dust during the night, and the morning of
June Sth dawned with a glad burst of sunshine. As the order had
gone forth that no one would be allowed to cross the main streets
after eight o'clock, we were in our seats, on one of the temporary
stands erected along the line of march, promptly at that hour,
and found amusement in watching the crowds. Men carrying racks
of beer and strings of pretzels drove a thriving trade. A Hun-
FRANZ JOSEPH QUAY, BUDAPEST
garian lady, who spoke English, sat next to us and volunteered
to tell us the particulars about the parade. At ten minutes of
eleven, a platoon of police appeared, clearing the way; then, down
the street dashed twelve mounted heralds, in blue velvet, blowing
silver trumpets. Cheer after cheer rent the air, as the people rose
to their feet to salute the Master of Ceremonies.
It is impossible to give more than a vague idea of the magnifi-
cence of the costumes, which, characteristic of the different epochs
during the past thousand years, were worn by noblemen represent-
ing the provinces of Hungary. Nearly all these men are enor-
VIENNA AXD nUDAPEST 319
inouslv rich and liad spared neither pains nor money in their
endeavors to make the details complete. There were eighty-seven
companies, each led by the nobles who ruled over the province.
Those of the highest rank carried the ancient battle Hags. The
prevailing costume consisted of tight trousers, coat of hght-colored,
embroidered satin, buttoned to the throat, and high-topped boots.
A velvet coat, bordered with costlv furs, hung from the shoulders
like a mantle, the same fur banding the high turban. The belt,
coat buttons, clasps, aigrette on the turban, and the sword hilt were
richly jewelled. Other companies wore complete suits of mail;
some, steel, others, gold, with mantle and saddlecloth of leopard
skin. All the horses were superbly caparisoned.
Following the horsemen, came splendid coaches containing
dignitaries of the church and state. The coachmen and the foot-
men, who stood behind, in blue and silver liveries with cocked hats,
reminded us of the grand personages of fairy tales.
Next, came thirty-five noblemen ablaze with orders, and cos-
tumed even more elegantly, as a guard of honor to the occupants
of twin coaches of enamelled redwood, with plate glass panels and
gold trnnmings. They were drawn by snow-white horses with gold
harness, and resplendent outriders accompanied them. In the first
coach was the Prime Minister; in the second, upon a dais, the
Crown of Hungary. How the people shouted when they beheld it!
remembering that, for a thousand years, the clumsy, jewelled circlet
with its bent cross had pressed the brows of all their warrior kings.
The stranger looks with admiration at this ancient, yet modern,
metropolis. In spite of the fact that the streets bear unpronounce-
able Magyar names, we are able to find our way about, and though
the inhabitants speak a language strange to our ears, we find them
courteous, eminently progressive, and fashionably dressed. An un-
derground railway connects the most important street with the
Exposition grounds, in the suburbs; its attractive stations are walled
with cream-colored tiles. Broad, well-kept boulevards, electric cars
and double-decked omnibuses, as well as the absence of beggars,
render the city unusually attractive.
The Exposition is unique. In the center of the grounds, sur-
rounded by a broad lagoon where steam launches ply, is a group
320
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
of stone buildings, each, a copy of some famous, old castle in
Hungary, fitted up with the original furniture, even family portraits
loaned for the occasion. In the great halls of the knights are battle-
axes, swords, suits of armor, seals and precious documents. In
one of the rooms, a table was set for a state dinner, with a service
owned by the Esterhazy family who are one of the most powerful
r/itaiifcili^iM "T.l^-o.;
I-.I;LIAMENT buildings, BUDAPEST
in Hungary. Upon a porcelain centerpiece about three inches high,
and eighteen feet long, were finely decorated fruit and bonlx)n
dishes.
Among the exhibits of modern workmanship, was an ivor)^
pipe. On its bowl, sixteen inches in length, were carved the heads
of the Emperor and Empress. Standing upon the lid of the bowl,
was the figure of Hungaria with drawn sword. On the back, con-
necting with the stem, were five mounted knights in full regalia,
the very spurs on their heels brought out in the most delicate
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST 321
We had an orange ice in the Royal Kiosk where some "swells"
in fine uniionn, with clanking swords, were conversing with a number
of ladies, every one of them beautiful and exc]uisitely gowned.
From there, we walked across the grounds to a cheap coffee-house
to see the humbler folk. The women wear very full skirts wliicli
are not gored, and, conse(iuently, form a thick ridge just below
the waist line. They walk with a queer little wriggle of the hips
which gives them an odd appearance.
The Hungarians drink quantities of plum brand}-, which is jnit
u]-) in attractive little stone jugs and sold on the grounds. How-
ever, we ha\-e not seen an intoxicated or disorderly person since
WQ came. In another part of the park is situated Os Budavara,
or Budapest at the timi^ of its occupation by the Turks. Here,
are reproductions of the old walls, mosques, and kiosks with
people dressed in the costumes of that period. Pretty waitresses
flit about, attending to the needs of visitors in the cafes. Hun-
garian gypsies with swarthy skins dance the czardas* with an
abandon known onlv to these wild, free children of the mountain
fastnesses.
In front of one of these cafes, where the scarlet capes and
sashes of a group of Servians made a warm dash of color against
the brown walls, we had our first taste of gnlyds. This is a na-
tional dish composed of beef cut in dice, and stewed with vegeta-
bles and fiaprika, Hungarian red pepper. Giilyas is delicious and
so is Eis-Kaffcc. To prepare the latter, half fill a small goblet with
coffee icecream; then, pour in as much sweetened, whijiped cream
as the glass will hold. When you eat it, thrust }our spoon to the
bottom of the goblet, bring the coffee cream up through the
whipped cream, close your eyes and imagine yourself in Hungary.
The grand tournament took place, the day following the parade,
in a large field adjacent to the Exposition grounds, and near the
Emperor's exhiliit ot blooded horses. The roval tent, between the
two grand stands, was pitched by means of halberds, as was the
custom in times of war, the edges of the crimson and gold canopy
being cut in battlements. At the left of the entrance, a pole was
* National dance of Hungary.
THE PRETTIEST PEASANT IN HUNGARY
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
323
planted, bearing the royal escutcheon. The sides of the tent were
open, and, as we sat within ti'n feet of the Court, we could study
the worn face of Emperor Franz Joseph, that "aristocrat of aristo-
crats," and the delicate, patrician features of the Princess Ste-
FRANZ JOSEPH. EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA
phanie. For a number of years, the Princess has represented the
Empress at Court. The Emperor is straight as an arrow, and has
a quick, nervous manner. He wore the uniform of a Hungarian
general; upon his breast glittered the orders of the Golden Fleece,
St. Stephen, and the Iron Crown. The Empress, once so beauti-
324 VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
ful and brilliant, is in wretched health, and has lived in the strictest
seclusion since the death of her son, the Crown Prince Rudolph.
The members of the Court were assembled when the Emperor
arrived, and, when he offered his hand, each pers(5n knelt upon
one knee to receive his salutation, as ceremoniously as if in a draw-
ingroom. The Court is in mourning for the brother of the Emperor,
who died recently, and the ladies presented a somber contrast to
the gaily dressed beauties in the grand stand.
Only noblemen participated in the tournament; six men were
entered for each of the five contests, which were trials of skill in
riding. As the Hungarians are noted for fine horsemanship, they
made a splendid appearance as they galloped across the field, ex-
actly at the time appointed; for the Emperor is punctual to a second,
and no one dares to loiter in his presence. The riders drew up
before their sovereign and saluted; then, rode to the judges' stand, to
receive orders. There was some excellent hedge and ditch jump-
ing, and, in the last race, the horses were all of full Arabian blood.
The prizes for the tournament were displayed on two tables
near the royal tent. There were two in monev; one, of 12,000
florins, the other, of 8,000 florins; several medals, silver cups and
tankards. When the Princess Stephanie entered her carriage, the
applause was deafening, for this Belgian jirincess has won man)-
friends in Austria.
We spent a forenoon, walking about the grounds of the For-
tress, and Royal Palace, but were unable to enter, as the Court
is present. Then we went over to the Matthias Kirche, a church
said to have been built by King Bela IV. ; here. Emperor Franz
Joseph and Empress Elisabeth were crowned, in 1867.
There are numerous important mineral springs in Budapest;
for example, the Hunyady-Janos, from which quantities of water
are exported annually to America.
Hungary is one of the richest countries in Europe, possessing
natural resources which seem inexhaustible. There are fine marble
quarries, as well as gold, silver, copper and lead mines. The opals
of Saros are celebrated for their great beauty.
The wines, especially the tokay, grown on the slopes of volcanic
mountains near Tokay, are of the rarest.
VIENNA AND BUDAPEST
325
On the last afternoon of our stay, we took the boat going to
the island called "Margarethen Insel, " lying between Buda and
Pest; it has been converted into a beautiful park. A car runs from
the lower end, through a forest of trees and flowering slirubs, to
the upper, where hot sulphur water from an artesian well falls in
— ^ j^~"'''^:ij.ij^*j
'r^^:.:^ .
MARGARET ISLAND
a cascade over rocks, into the Danube. A splendid bath house is
fully equipped for the needs of invalids, and there are many line
cottages on the island.
x\ll that night, as we journeyed back to Vienna, we inhaled
the fragrance of the pines, and, at each station, felt a new longing
to turn back to the fascinating land of the Czardas.
CHAPTER XXI
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
'MID the hijj,h bluffs overlooking the Elbe, on the way
from Vienna to Dresden, are some rocks called the "Bas-
teifelsen," as they resemble fortifications. Prcttv, little
Jo.'^ steamers ply up and down the swift stream, for this
river, unlike the Danube, has a rapid current. Miles
)f hop gardens cover the lowlands, their poles so arranged
.,^ that they look like regiments of soldiers, with bayonets upright.
Dresden, the capital of the Kingdom of Saxony, lies in
the fertile valley of the Elbe, and has been the residence of the
Albertine line of kings, since 14S5. The royal palace, (jn the
Schloss Platz, is the usual residence of the reigning sovereigns,
but, as King Albert is in very poor health, at present, he lives at
his country seat, not far from the city, where he finds perfect
quiet. As the law prohibits the erection of any building higher
than the street is wide, and there are many beautiful lawns, the
city is attractive to the eye. Among the fine bridges which connect
the two sections of the city is the Augustus Bridge built in 1222.
Early on the first evenmg after our arrival, while walking
about the streets near our hotel, we discovered a poster stating
that Eduard Stiauss was to give a concert at Lincke'sches Bad,
a .summer garden in the suburbs. As we had missed hearing him
in Vienna, we immediately took upper seats in a double-decked
street car, and rode out there, arriving in time to hear the last
three numbers of the program, the "Beautiful Blue Danube"
being one. I had heard the Strauss Orchestra in America, but it
was not quite the same as here; it needed the garden, the tables,
the German people shouting out their approval after each number,
and, above all, the omnipresent beer mug to make it seem real
' ' Straussy. " The very hairs of the little Viennese seemed to
326
328 DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
dance, as, with violin in hand, he conducted his orchestra and
brought out, with the touch of his bow, the strains of that waltz,
ahva^■s new, ahvays dear to the German heart.
The best pictures of this Saxon art center are collected in
the extensive Zwinger gallery. The l)uilding incircles an immense
court filled with shrubbery, flowers and statuary. Nearlv all the
great masters are represented here, and we especiallv admired a
painting of the "Children of Charles I.," by Van Dyck.
In a room by itself is the celebrated " Sistine Madonna,"
pronounced by many to be the finest oil painting in the world. The
earnest eyes of the Virgin looked down upon us with an expression
full of sympathy and tenderness embracing all suft'ering humanity;
the very apotheosis of motherhood. From the graceful form radiate
strength, purity and love. The very colors in the draperies are
imbued with a subtle power, that rivets the attention of the be-
holder, and haunts him, ever after. There is an appeal in the
eyes of the Christ child, who seems to gaze far beyond this world
into the next.
In a section devoted to modern art, there is a wonderful
picture called "Summer," by Makart. The central figure is a lovely
creature reclining on a silken couch beneath a crimson canopy;
she is playing with butterflies, her laughing, upturned face dis-
playing, through the lines of scarlet lips, the pearly teeth. Other
beautiful forms rise from the water on the left, where they have
been bathing. The canvas seems to glow with the peculiar bril-
liancy for which the Austiian master was noted.
The eight rooms of the Green Vaults, in the royal palace,
contain over 3,000 works of art in gold, silver, precious stones, and
other materials. Here, are kept the crown jewels of Saxony;
among them, the famous green diamond; also, the regalia of Au-
gustus, King of Poland; swords of famous warriors, and cups t)t
amber. There is a jewel case in the shape of a roc, a mythical
])ird of "The Arabian Nights," carved from a single piece of
jasper. We saw, too, a rock crystal goblet once owned b_\' Alartin
Luther.
On the second evening we heard the opera of the "Trumpeter
of Sackingen," at the superbly decorated Royal Opera House. We
THE 51STINE MADONNA
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
331
had often been told that students of music, attending the opera in
Germany, sat in the upper balconies; so, we procured tickets ad-
mitting us to that part of the house. Our seats were in the midst
of a bevy of bright, voung girls in shirt waists and dark skirts. They
seemed acquainted with one another, and, though they conversed
between the acts, or
went into the little
restaurant connected
with the gallery, as
soon as the orchestra
began to pla}-, they
were all attention.
The music and words
appeared to be fa-
miliar to them, and,
as the plot unfolded,
one interpreted it for
us. The opera is
founded on a poem
written by Scheftel,
the much beloved
German poet, and
the scene is laid in
the Black Forest.
The heroine is slen-
der, and a beautiful
blonde; the hero,
dark, strong and brave, played the trumpet magnificenth'. A weak
villain and a stern papa give the trumpeter numerous opportunities
to show off, and the fair maiden to faint. Nevertheless, every-
thing ends happily, as it invariably does in a German story. We
had to take a carriage to the theater, because of a heavy rain,
though we returned in a street car; strange as it seems, our ex-
penses for the evening were only thirty-nine cents each.
You will be shocked when I tell \ou that we came very near
being arrested, the day we went to Meissen to visit the Royal Pot-
teries, and the feudal castle of Albrechtsburg. Ever since leaving
CASKET OF JASPER
334
DRESDEN AMD CARLSBAD
home, we have been collecting specimens for our herbariums, and,
as we rode along, remarked the beauty of the blue cornflowers by
the wayside. Once, the train came to a standstill between stations,
and beside a most in-
\iting bunch of the cov-
eted posies. At my sug-
gestion, Mrs. M. jumped
out and gathered a hand-
ful, while I held the door
open. The guard saw us
and reported the act at
the next station, where
we received a terrific
scolding in German, of
which we did not under-
stand a syllable. Our
utter amazement and
"Ich vcrstehe nicht"*
drove the fat, blustering
official nearlv frantic.
He raved up and down
tlie platform, while we
simply stood and stared
at him, with an air of
injured innocence, hold-
ing up the poor little
nosegay for inspection.
At last, we were allowed
to depart. On our re-
turn to Dresden, we
learned that to get out
THE TRUMPETER OF SACK.NGEN ^f ^ ^j.^^|,^ bctWeOn Sta-
tions, in Germany, is an offense punishable b)' fine or imjirison-
ment; so you see that we had a narrow escape.
Dresden china! What magic in the words! How they smack
* "I do not understand."
336
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
of the court and banquet halls, calling up pictures of powdered
dames and beribboned gallants! The secret of making true porce-
lain was discovered in Germany, in the i8th century, by a man
named Bottcher.
Its manufacture
was carried on for
about fifty years,
in the strictest
secrecy, for the
work m e n w ere
practicalh' [)rison-
ers. The history
of the Dresden
potteries is divided
into three periods.
During the first,
or king's period, all
the best specimens
were reserved for
tlie king's own use
and for ro\al gilts.
The trade-mark
burned into the
china was, at that
time, the mono-
gram of the king;
later, two swords
crossed were sul)-
stituted for it, rep-
resenting those
worn by the Elect-
or of Saxony. In 1796, a new director, named Marceloni, placed
a star between the two swords; the porcelain was then sold to
the public, and has never since reached its old-time perfection.
Authorities upon the subject of Dresden china say that outside
dealers can now buv the ware and decorate it themselves; such
pieces are known b\' a line cut in the glaze above the two blue
ALBERT, KING OF SAXONY
DRESDEN AND CAKLSn.lD
337
swords. The Dresden hard paste* is considered sujierior to ihc
Sevres, though the <:;round colors, especially the l)hu', arc liner in
the French porcelain.
After Jiaying a tee of one mark.f we were furnished with an
English-speaking-
guide, who con-
ducted us through
the rooms where
750 men were at
work. We saw
them kneading the
paste, which looked
like dough, to get
all the air out.
Then, rolling it in-
to sheets, and hiy-
i n g it o \- e r t h e
molds, they cut off
the edge, as a cook
would trim pie
crust. In other
instances, the}'
shaped the dish
with the aid of a
potter's wheel. At
length, all were
put into fire brick
cases and placed
in a big kiln, or
oven, to bake. It
takes one day to
fire the china, 'and ""o^*' '2'^"'' °^ 5*'<°'^^
another, for the oven to cool, before the contents can be removed.
If an underglazed pattern is to be used, after the first firing, it is
* Made of kaolin, a cla}' found at .\ue in Saxony.
■j" About twenty-five cents.
338 DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
jiainted on the dish which is, subsequently, dipped in a liquid paste,
or glaze, and iircd again. If the underglazed decoration is not
used, then the design is painted on top of the glaze, or second firing.
During the process of decoration, there are several more firings.
Some of the men were modelling ffowers for candelabra. They
work exactl}' as if making wax flowers, cutting out the petals from
the sheets of dough, by a pattern, and then pinching them into
shape with their fingers, and affixing them to the standard, pre-
paratory to firing and coloring. The best artists are employed to
model the figures and paint the elaborate designs.
Until i<S63, the potteries were connected witli the castle of
Albrechtsburg. Within the ramparts is a small village. We drove
up the long, winding road and under the liuge gateway, where, in
days gone by, the golden-haired bride of Albert I. rode on a pal-
frey beside her royal lover. The Saxon dames were of heroic mold
and, once, when the castle was attacked, hurled down great stones
with their strong arms, upon the heads of the besiegers, below.
There are many rare specimens of Royal Dresden in the cabinets
of the great dining-hall, where the initials of King Albert and
Queen Carola, the present rulers, are carved in the high backs ot
the chairs.
On the way from Dresden to Carlsbad, the well-known resort,
where we are now stopping, we began to worry a little about the
condition of our travelling suits, which we had worn ever since
leaving America. However, we find that we can walk about among
the fashionable folk, without attracting the least attention. The
guests at the hotels are chiefly Russian and French; at every turn,
one meets people twisted with rheumatism or in the last stages of
consum|)ti()n.
The mineral springs, of which there are now nineteen, were
discovered in the 14th century by Charles IV., while hunting;
hence, the name, Carlsbad, — Charles' Bath, — although, according
to the records, they were known a hundred years earlier. The
chief ingredients of the waters are sulphate of soda, carbcmate of
soda, and salt. They rise from a very hard kind of rock near the
Tepl river, the hot water gushing through the broken crust. The
main part of the town is built on this crust, and it is believed
340
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
that, beneath it, there is a vast reservoir from which the sprincjs
flow. The steam escapes through holes that have been made in
the rock, and, if they are not freed from the salt deposits, peri-
ochcally, new openings are forced.
The largest and most popular spring is the Sprudel, which,
at times, shoots up to a height of thirteen feet, at the rate of 450
SPRUDEL COLONNADE, CARLSBAD
gallons per minute. It is within an iron colonnade covered with glass.
At all the springs, the invalids begin to congregate as early as
four o'clock in the morning, their cujis hung from leather straps
over their shoulders. Good bands play from six to eight, the
bathing hours. Every bather has a ticket and time card and, if
more than ten minutes late, he loses his bath. The water is
pleasant to the skin as well as to the palate.
Last night, we attended a ball, as spectators, at the Curhaus. *
The dining-room opens from the ballroom and, as we went in to
dinner about eight o'clock, we were able to enjoy the dancing.
There were many beautiful girls, and one, a Russian, was such a
*A club house open to visitors.
DRESDEN AND CARLSBAD
341
picture tliat we gazed at her, most of the time. Iler jet-bhuk liair
was arranged in wide, ilat braids, and brougiit abt)ut her head,
from the nape of the nc^ck to a peak in front, in the exaet form
of the Russian headdress. She was so vivacious and sparkhng as
to keep a dozen officers, — mihtary men predominated, — waiting for
a dance, and it was amusing to see the complacency of her chaper-
on, as one after another claimed the belle's attention. The pro-
gram was composed principally of waltzes and two-steps, though
there was one set where the couples formed in two rows down the
hall, after the fashion of the old contra-danccs.
We have not seen a single peasant, in Bohemia, wearing the
entire, national costume; only, now and then, a bright-colored dress,
and handkerchief over the head. Slowly but surely, the picturesque
costumes are, everywhere, giving way to the ugly, mutton-leg sleeve,
and gored skirt of the present day. It is a pity, for the peasant
girl is often very attractive in the simple dress suited to her face
and figure, and very commonplace when she apes the lady of
fashion.
CHAPTER XXII
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
F all the quaint places that it has been my good
'•'f ^1^ ^ fortune to see, Nuremberg takes the precedence. The
|l V^Jl W: wide ramparts and strong towers were once protected
-I ^!^ilm. m- by a moat filled with black water, but, now, grass-
— =V«^ * Lirown and dotted with trees. The river Pegnitz flows
-t^sw through the old part of the city, dividing it almost
ec]ually. It is crossed b\- cpieer bridges, that add one
more touch to the general picturescjueness of the town, all towers
and turrets, dormer windows and red, gabled roofs.
It seemed incongruous to take a carriage to the hotel, and the
sight of a street car positively hurt our feelings, so we gave our
baggage to a stout porter and walked under the tower gateway,
and over the bridge across the moat. The main street is irregular
and narrow, and the hotel that we selected was once the resi-
dence of a fine family. How we enjoyed the frescoes on the walls
of our room, the great, carved bed and the ornaments on the high
chimneypiece! It was like a chapter out of an old story-book!
In the quarter of St. Sebald is a Gothic church of the same
name. The "Schreyer Monument" m relief, on one side, and the
representation of the "Last Judgment," over the south entrance,
are world-renowned examples of stone cutting. They are the work
of Adam Kraft't, a Nuremberg stone cutter, and were executed in
the 15th century.
Within the church, is the bronze monument of St. Seljald,
weighing eight tons, the masterpiece of Peter Vischer, who, with
his five sons, worked upon it for thirteen years, introducing into
the design small figures of the twelve apostles, besides prophets
and the fathers of the church.
The greatest artist of Nuremberg was Albrecht Diirer (1471-
342
344
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
1 5 28), who ranks in the art world with Titian and Rubens. A true
German in birth and feehng, he interpreted the rough sincerity, the
iron will and the homely tenderness of the race, as no other artist
OLD CUSTOM HOUSE
has ever been able to do. Examples of his work are to be found
in all the great galleries of the world. One cannot gaze long at
his fine countenance, or at the prim, old city of his birth, without
recollectinsi the lines of Loni-fellow: —
••In the valley of the Peynitz, where across broad meadow-lands
Rise the blue Franconiaii mountains, Nuremberg, the ancient, stands.
* :t: % % -Sfi
"Quaint old town of toil and traffic, quaint old town of art and song,
Memories haunt thy pointed gables, like the rooks that round them throng.
■^ if. % ifL ^
"Here, when Art was still religion, with a simple, reverent lieart.
Lived and labored Albrecht Diirer, the Evangelist of Art;
ifi ^ :it ^ H<
"Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair,
That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air!"
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK' EOKEST
345
A fine statue of Diirer stands in the square named for liim,
near liis home, now the iirojierly of the city. The rooms are just
as he left them, with curious old furniture. In the kitelim, the
stove stands upon a large brick platform; the wood is heaj)ed on
to]', under a threat iron pot, which is placed on a frame. Near by,
is a huge water-bucket,
small at the bottom and
large at the top, with
leathern thongs by which
to carry it, on the back,
to and from the pump;
just such buckets are
still in u.se.
Attached to the 14th
century Chapel of St.
Moritz, like a piece of
moss to the trunk of a
tree, is a tiny restaurant
with a bell on one side,
the B ratwurst-Glock-
lein,* where Albrecht
Diirer, Adam Kraft t,
Peter Vischer, and Hans
Sachs, the poet, used to
meet their friends, and,
together, have a plate of
Bratii.'2irst. A delicious
sauerkraut is served with
this sausage peculiar to Nuremberg, — the crispest, daintiest morsel
that it was ever the privilege of a hungry wayfarer to taste. It
was great fun to watch the sausages sputtering and sizzling over
the embers in the diminutive kitchen. A dish of Bratunirst, and
two fresh rolls cost onlv nine cents, and I am afraid we were care-
less of our digestion while in Nuremberg.
Upon the walls of the long, low room, lighted by odd, little
DURER'S KITCHEN
* Little bell.
346 NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
windows, arc portraits ot the artists, and tin- sketches and auto-
graphs of otlier famous people.
A memorial tablet on the house of John Palm, a bookseller,
records that he was condemned by a court-martial and shot, at
Braunau, by Napoleon's orders in 1806, because he had published
a pamphlet on the "Degradation of Germany," which was not at
all liatti'ring to T^rance.
Although the permanent buildings of Nuremberg appeared
strange to us, the temporary structui"es on the grounds of the
Exposition tlid not; for, they are almost the same as some of our
World's Fair buildings. The walks, too, are bordered with the same
little, colored cups with lighted wicks. While we were eating an ice
at a cafe table, the evening we were there, a family of Germans sat
down beside us. Perceiving that we spoke English, they began to
ask us questions in our own tongue. Of course, we were delighted,
and spent a pleasant hour. They seemed much surprised when
we told them that the same method of lighting the walks had been
used in Chicago, and one old lady seemed to doubt our veracity,
when we said that our Exposition was about six times as large as
theirs, if not larger. All about, under the trees, are wooden images
of gnomes, their odd, little faces screwed uj-) in all sorts of shapes,
rascality stamped upon every one.
We travelled from Nuremberg to the Black Forest by way of
Carlsruhe, the capital of Baden, where we stayed over night, going
on to Baden-Baden, a watering placi: of note, the next morning.
After engaging a room at the Hotel M Ciller, we ordered a car-
riage and span of stout horses, and, with a driver recommended as
reliable, we plunged into the Forest, on our way to Gernsbach.
This section is rirli in legends that have inspired poetry and
prose, times without number. I wish I could make }ou feel the
solitude, solemnity, and mysteriousness of a great forest, where one
rides for hours in the subdued light that, hltering through the tops
of giant firs, and slanting downward, flecks the gray, leaf-strewn
earth with yellow. The roads are perfect and, as there is no
underbrush and the trees are pruned nearly to the top, one can
see for a great distance. As we drove along, we were more and
more impressed with the unusual height and straightness of the trees.
348 Xr REM BERG AXD THE BLACK FOREST
Though they sjnaing from the valle}- below us, their tops towered
far above our heads. As soon as a tree shows signs of decay, it
is cut down and a new one from the nurseries set out in its place.
The branches are trimmed so that balance is preserved and the
trunks are kept straight. From this forest the finest logs for
ship-building are obtained. Growing beside the pines were deli-
cate, waving ferns, bluebells and tall foxgloves. Birds chirped
among the branches, or hopped along in a friendly fashion beside
the carriage. Green lizards, horned beetles, and smaller bugs
of all species crawled over the moss-covered boulders that border
the roadway. We looked in vain for a fat, little elf to pop up
from behind a stone, or a sprite to shake leaves upon us from an
overhanging bough, for no one goes through the Black Forest
without remembering that it is their favorite abiding-place ; we
finally concluded that they were all away in distant glades, hatch-
ing up a new prank to play upon the unwary traveller.
Our first halt was at the Alte Schloss, or Old Castle of Baden,
the former residence of the Grand Dukes, who, since its destruc-
tion by the French, in 1689, have lived in the town below. This
ruin, a mere pile of stones overrun by vines and mosses, is on a
cliff overlooking the valley of the Rhine; the walls date in part
from the 3rd centurv.
About an hour's drive brought us to a path leading to the
Wolfsschlucht, a romantic ravine. Leaving the carriage, we walked
down into the glen, and crept to the very edge of some rocks,
which overlook a rushing stream at the bottom. All about us
were tall pines; their fragrance filled the air, and whispering
beeches seemed to reveal the secrets of the wood nymphs and the
satvrs. It was here that Undine, the water nymph, playing
on her lyre by the banks of the stream, bewitched the young
forester.
The telltale hands of our watches soon reminded us that
time was flying, so we were forced to return to the carriage and
press onward and upward to that romantic stronghold, the Castle
of Eberstein. It stands on the brink of a precipice, 1,000 ft.
above the Murg. PVom the parapet of the castle, we could look
down into the valley with its wooded sides, and see the shining
350
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
river winding in and out among little towns. It seemed to me
one of the wildest and most beautiful scenes of our entire trip.
About five centuries ago, a faithful subject of the lord of the
castle had a beautiful daughter named Hildegard. One day,
while her father was up at the great house, Hildegard saw a
hostile force climbing the rocky height crowned by the castle.
Recognizing the Wiirtemberger, deadly enemies of Wolf, the
Count of Eberstein, she ran swiftly to the castle, and bursting
into the midst of the unsuspecting company in the courtyard,
cried, "Beware! the Wiirtemberger are coming!" The horn of
Count Wolf summoned his men to arms, the brid<je was drawn
CASTLE EBERSTEIN
uji wilh all liaste, and, when the bold invaders made their attack,
they found the castle prepared for defense. Deprived of their ex-
pected victory, they instituted a siege, but, after many days, were
obliged to abandon it.
In the meantime, Hildegard had shown such hraverv and solici-
tude in caring for the sick and ching soldiers, that she had com-
pletely won the heart of the proud Wolf, and he demanded of
her father her hand in marriag(\ On the very day of the wed-
ding, when all was in readiness. Wolf of Wunnenstein suddenly
appeared at the castle and craved the assistance of the bridegroom-
elect in recovering his castle, and the jirovisions that the rt'tiring
enemv had st<>len and were carrying oti. The Count refused it.
352 NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK EOREST
at first, but, as the lord of Wunnenstein was persistent, and Hil-
degard signified her desire to accompany her betrothed and share
his dangers, he could no longer refuse. Calling his retainers to
arms, he set out, with the maiden riding bv his side. Thev over-
took the enemy in a few hours beside the river Murg, and a terri-
ble battle insued. The two Wolfs fought bravel}- and, even in the
thickest of the fight, Hildegard was beside her lover, warding off
stroke after stroke intended for him. At last, her spear was torn
from her hands, Imt, seeing a lance aimed at the breast of the
Count, she threw herself in front of him and received the murder-
ous point in her own bosom. This so infuriated the knight and
his followers that they redoubled their efforts and were left masters
of the field. The fair Hildegard was laid to rest in the old church
of Gernsbach, and the bereaved Wolf, who had sworn never to call
another woman, wife, passed the remainder of his days, alone.
All about the castle are beautiful roses, and ivy climbs loxingly
up the massive walls. In the court is a fountain, and a carved
stone shrine. On either side of the entrance are bronze statues
of several Counts of Eberstein, in full armor; their escutcheons line
the passages, though the carvings are nearly obliterated.
We had dinner at Gernsbach down in the vallev, where we
could look up at the very heights from which we had looked down
The meal was served under a spreading beech in the hotel garden,
on the banks of the river, and we then returned to Baden-Baden,
passing a number of foresters with baskets strapped to their backs,
and great logs being hauled to the town, by oxen. We could smell
the new-mown ha\' in the valley, as the farmers' wives and daughters
turned it over with their wooden forks.
Although we were anxious to see a real nunnery, we lifted the old
iron knocker of the Cistercian Convent, near the town, with a tremor
of doubt as to our admittance. In a moment, a pleasant face, framed
in a snowy cap, peered out from the window above, and a gentle
voice bade us enter. Ascending a stone staircase, we found our-
selves in front of a heavy oaken door, in the center of which was
a metal lattice. A nun wearing a peculiar, winged headdress and
a fluted collar, both of spotless linen, appeared at the opening.
Greeting us with a few, kind words, slie pointed to the door of a lai"ge
NUREMBERG .LVD THE BLACK FOREST
353
reception-room, opjiosite, where a lay sister explained the pictures
upon the walls and exhibited a statuette of Irmen,L;ard, widow of
Hermann IV. of Baden, who founded the eon\ent, in 1245. and
whose tomb is in the chapel.
We consider Baden-Baden much more delightful than Carls-
bad. The drives on the Ijanks of the river Oos are charming, and
the baths, notably the Kaiserin Augusta Bad which is exclusively
for ladies, are luxurious in the extreme. One feels like a princess,
THE KAISERIN AUGUSTA BAD
when stepping into the marble basins inclosed 1)\- frescoed walls.
Upon emerging therefrom, enveloped in a long, white robe, with a
cap, socks and slippers to match, and wrapped in a blanket, one
is stowed away for a quiet snooze.
The fine building called the "Trinkhalle, " where the waters
are drunk, is adorned with frescoes representing the fourteen legends
of the Black Forest. That of the "White Doe" runs something
like this: One day, deep in the glades of a forest, a famous hunter
caught sight of a snow-white doe. He pursued it in liot haste, but
it was swift and ever evaded him. The chase led him, at last, to
the huge rocks of the Battert, where the doe suddenly disappeared.
A moment later, the rocks seemed to open and from a cleft stepped
a beautiful woman with the white doe by her side. The hunter,
lost in amazement at the apparition, could not speak, when rebuked
23
354
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
for his heartlessness in pursuing tlie doe with a desire to kill it.
Finally, hearing the words, ' 'You must depart from my province and
never hunt again!" he obeyed with bowed head, and spent the re-
mainder of his days in clearing the forest. It is said that he was
the first person who opened the valley of the Oos for cultivation.
While at Nuremberg, I so admired a cute wooden model of
the Bratwurst-Glocklein that, as it cost only six marks, I could
not resist the temptation to buy it. My friend sent several wood
carvings from Switzerland, by post, and I thought nothing could
be easier than to mail the toy to you. So, having carefullv tied
THE TRINKHALLE
it up in a box, on my way to the postofhce, I attempted to mail
it. Not being able to speak the language or to understand it very
well, I coulci not comprehend exactly why they refused the parcel,
but guessed that it was because it was not sealed. I was obliged,
therefore, to take it to Baden-Baden. Yesterday about noon, we
started for the postoffice, with the box, after having paid a bo\-
twenty pfennigs * for sealing it. The clerk, however, contemptu-
ously tore off the paper, examined the box, and informed me that
they could not accept it unless wrapped in "Voxline, " or something
that sounded very much like that. Rather discouraged, we walked
* loo pfennigs equal one mark.
FRESCO, LEGEND OF THE WHITE DOE
EMPEROR WILLIAM OF GERM-tJ, M.Jij FAMILY
NUREMBERG AXD THE BLACK EOREST 357
several blocks, and, at last, found the needful article, and a very
obliging young man spent a full half hour folding and sealing the
waterproof paper, for such, "Voxline" proved to be. After his ex-
traordinary efforts, I timidly asked his charge. lie said, one mark
and fifty pfennigs; then he jiroduced three formidable, jninted
sheets, declarations to the different customhouses through which
that wretched little box must pass. When these had been prop-
erly filled out, the parcel weighed, and an address blank ]:irepared,
mourning that about an hour and a half of our precious time had
been wasted, we returned to the postoffice and again presented the
parcel, with the invoice, to the august person at the desk. Turn-
ing the package over several times, glancing critically at each seal,
he permitted a clerk to weigh it, to see if the weight exactly
corresponded with the description, and then announced that there
must be a receipted bill sent with it. This he kindl}' made out
for me, and, after exacting a fee of four marks, fifty pfennigs, said
that was all. I departed, a sadder, but wiser woman. The costly
souvenir is on its way to America. What the duties will be, there,
I dare not even think! I only advise that, if it reaches you safely,
you put it under a glass dome and label it "x\delaide's Folly."
The most imposing ruin in Germany is the old castle of Heidel-
berg, where we stopped for a few hours on our way to Mayence.
It was built between 1294 and 13 19, and was blown up by the
French, in 1689. It surely must be more beautiful in its decay
than in its completeness, for the ivy runs at will over the molder-
ing walls; flowering shrubs and graceful ferns fill the broad, dry
moat, and magnificent old trees, some of them of the rarest species
brought from far away lands, lift their leafy heads above the crum-
bling walls and arches. The outer walls are quite plain, all the
decorations being on the facade toward the castle yard, where, in
niches between the windows, are life-size statues, in full armor, of
Charlemagne and many of the Counts Palatine.
In the cellar, is the famous Heidelberg tun, the largest cask
in Europe; it is made of oak, without hoops, and its capacity is
49,000 gallons. A wooden figure of Perkeo, a court jester, stands
near by, a funny little fellow, with a bright red wig, holding an
old clock. When asked the time of day, the jester was in the
HEIDELBERG CASTLE
NL'R/'.Af/^F.RG A YD THE BLACK FORIiST
359
habit of tcllin.s;; people to pull the cord which hung from the clock;
whereupon, the door would Hy open, and the hu.shy tail of a iox
fastened inside would strike the inquirer full in the face. Pcrkeo
ust'd to boast oi drinking eighteen bottles of wine every day.
( )n an upper floor is a niuseuni, wliere we noticed the engage-
MAMMOTH CASK, AND FIGURE OF PF.RKEO
ment ring gi\en by Martin Luther to Katherinc von Bora, and a
set of rare, painted wooden plates.
To see Heidelberg Castle at its best, one must view it by
moonlight, while standing by the parapet along the ri\er. Then
the grandeur of its proportions and the grace of its mantle of ivv
are brought out, and one realizes to the fullest extent the beauty
of its situation.
" Oh a dainty plant is the Ivy green,
That creepeth o'er ruins okl!
Of right choice food are his meals I ween,
In his cell so lone and cold.
The walls must be crumbled, the stones de-
ca^ed,
To pleasure his daint\' whim;
And the mouldering dust that jears liave
made
360
NUREMBERG AND THE BLACK FOREST
Is a merry meal for him.
Creeping where no life is seen
A rare old plant is the Ivy green.
* * :p *
"Whole ages have fled, and their works de-
ca}ed,
And nations scattered been;
But the stout old Ivy shall never fade
From its hale and hearty green.
The brave old plant in its lonely
days
Shall fatten upon the past;
For the stateliest building man can
raise
Is the Ivy's food at last.
Creeping where no life is seen
A rare old plant is the Iv\' green."*
*Charles Dickens.
CHAPTER XXIII
THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND MX- LA- CHAPELLE
iW i^-"- "^HILE we were in jNIayence, on June 2Sth, awaiting
^■'"^r >^-~ ^'^'^ boat to take us down the Rhine, Mrs. M. had
^^jVI <rf) quite an adventure. As I was busy writing to you,
she went out alone to see something of the town.
Wishing to enter a church, she opened the heavy
outi-r door and passed into the vestibule, leaving
the door, as usual, to close itself, which it did with
a sharp bang. The vestibule was perfectly dark,
and as she could not see the inner door, she attempted
to open the outer one again, but it refused to yield to her efforts.
Groping her way to the inner one, she found it, also, locked, and
her repeated raps brought no response. The church was not much
frequented, and it was a question whether an}- one would come to
her relief before the time of evening service, and the boat was to
leave in an hour. After being thoroughlv frightened, she discovered,
liy the sense of feeling, a knob on the outer door, far above her
head, and, as she pulled upon it with all her might, it moved a
bar below and she was released.
On our way down the river, we suffered somewhat from the
cold, but the scenery was so varied and beautiful that, in spite of
chills, we remained on deck all day. Rugged mountains rose in
the distance, sometimes dark with pine forests; while upon heights
far above the water were ruined castles. At every bend of the
river, towns and villages appeared, some surrounded bv fields and
vineyards, others nestling at the foot of cliffs.
The sight of Bingen brought to mind the poem of ' • Bingen
on the Rhine." Opposite, on the Niederwald, 740 ft. above the
Rhine, is the colossal monument of Germania, erected by the Ger-
man people in memory of the foundation of the new empire in
361
362
THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA-CHAPELLE
1S70-71. Splendid reliefs adorn the base. The one on the side
facing the river is symbolical of the national song, "The Watch
on the Rhine."
Below Bingen, is a small island, and on it, the little stone
watchtower called the " Mouse Tower." It is said that an arch-
i'Mi
MOUSE TOWER
bishop of i\[a)'cnce, during a famine, once burned a number of
peasants in a Ijarn, ironically comparing them to mice bent on nib-
bling the corn. He was afterwards devoured alive bv mice which
chased him to this refuge. Opposite, is a ruined castle, a vivid
contrast to the vine-clad hillside.
A little further on, is produced the choice Rhine wine called
"Assmannshausen." In the 15th century that of Bacharach, one
of the greatest wine-marts on the river, was far-famed. The town
of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for a yearly tribute
to the Emperor Wenzel of four tuns of Bacharach wine.
Tin-: RlfLYE. COLOGNE, AXD AIX^LA-CHAPRLLF.
363
We waited anxit)uslv for a view of tlie Lorelei roeks, where
legend says that a siren sits and sings, luring the unwary mariner
into the rapids at the base of the cliff. The great bluff with its
nian\-colored stones juts out into tlie river, and looks so wild that
it is not at all clillicult to believe that a water nymph might choose
such a glittering precipice for her habitation.
The scenery near Rolandseck seemed to us the most beautiful
on the Rhine. On the right, are the Seven Mountains which form
THE LORELEI ROCKS
the northwestern boundary of the wood district. They are all of
volcanic origin. There is a cavern in the side of the Drachenfels,
where Siegfried, the hero of the Niebelungenlied, is said to have
killed a dragon and anointed himself with its blood, thus becom-
ing invulnerable to the attacks of his enemies. The great castle
above is one of the most renowned on the river.
The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
Whose breast of waters broadh' swells
Between the banks which liear the vine,
And hills all rich with blossomed trees.
And fields which promise corn and wine,
And scattered cities crowning these.
Whose far white walls along them shine,
364 THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX~LA~CHAPELLE
Have strewed a scene, which I should
see
With double joy wert tliou with me.
"And peasant girls, with deep blue eyes,
And hands which offer early flowers,
Walk smiling o'er this paradise;
Above, the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of
gray;
And many a rock which steeply lowers.
And noble arch in proud decay,
Look o'er this vale of vintage bowers;
But one thing want these hanks of
Rhine, —
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine!"*
Opposite, on the left bank, is the Roland Arch, all that is left
of a castle said to have been built by Roland, the paladin of
Charlemagne. Although historians affirm that Roland died in the
battle of Roncevalles, the following legend is cherished by the
peasants : —
One night there came to the castle of Drachenburg a brave
young knight named Roland. Count Heribert, lord of the Seven
Mountains, welcomed him royally and bade his lovely daughter,
Hildcgunde, set bread, wine and fish before their guest. As she
touched her dainty lips to the wine cup before presenting it, ac-
cording to the custom of the day, Roland tell desperately in love
with the fair face and golden tresses of the maiden. She had
never before seen so gallant a knight, therefore, it was not strange
that her heart was captured, and that they became affianced lovers.
But, unfortunatel}', the mandates of Charlemagne broke in ujion
their brief happiness, for Roland was summoned to join tlic crusades.
Weary months rolled away, and, receiving tidings that her hero had
been slain, Hildegunde retired to a nunnery on the little island of
Nonnenwerth, directly opposite the old arch, and there took the veil.
But the rei)ort of the knight's death was untrue; Roland, though
wounded, recovered, and hastened to claim his bride, only to find
' Lord Byron.
366
THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA^CHAPELLE
that she was lost to him forever. In despair, he built a castle, of
which only this one arch remains, and there he lived in solitude,
watching for an occasional glimpse of his beloved, as she passed to
and fro between the little chapel and the convent on the island be-
low him. One day, the tolling of the bell announced her death,
and at that moment his heart broke. A girls' school now occupies
the convent about which such a tragic romance clings.
The Rhine wines are among the finest in the world: especially,
the white wines. On the banks between Mavence and P)onn, the
ROLANDSECK AND NONNENWERTH
vines mav be seen in their hiuhest state ot culti\ati(>n. These
wines I'etain their excellence for fitty years, although they contain
only eight or nine per cent of alcohol, showing conclusively that
the state of fermentation is nearly perfect. At Schloss Johannis-
berg are the most celebrated vineyards. As the grapes are se-
lected one by one from the most perfectly ripened bunches, the
quantity of this wine is limited, and the price accordingly high. The
vineyards along the Moselle river are in a narrow valley, between
rocks, and, lacking the sunshine of the hillsides, the grapes do not
ripen so perfectly as those of other sections; but the wines are
recommended as particularly healthful.
The Emperor Charlemagne, or ' ' Charles the Great, " as the
Germans called him, on account of his enormous size, had many
palaces on the Rhine, but there is now little trace of them, as the
few remaining fragments have been incorporated in castles of a
later date.
368 THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA-CHAPELLE
As we neared Cologne, we were struck with the beauty of its
site, and with the grandeur of the Cathedral, which is generally
considered to illustrate the principles of Gothic architecture better
than any other. We had thought that we could admire no Gothic
structure as much as the Duomo in Milan, but, when I left Cologne,
my opinion wavered. Though lacking the many statues which so
add to the effect of the Italian cathedral, the flying buttresses of
the one in Cologne are things of beauty. There is not suflicient
space to enable one fully to appreciate the proportions of the lat-
ter, for, instead of being on an open square, it is hemmed in on all
sides by luiildings, and one has a frantic desire to tear down a dozen
blocks and clear the way for its majestic presence.
()ur special letter of introduction gave us a privilege in Cologne
which was most enjoyable, that of inspecting the large, chocolate
manufactory of StolKverck, whose "nickel-in-the-slot " machines are
seen everywhere in America. We were provided with a special
escort, and the tour of the extensive buildings occupied more than
two hours. The process of grinding the chocolate in the huge mills
was very interesting, as well as the mixing of the candy, the fin-
ishing and boxing. Everything which is used is made in these
works. The wood for the boxes is cut in a private sawmill; the
nickel machines are made here, and printing presses in the estab-
lishment supply labels and posters. In the bakeries, biscuits are
turned out by thousands, and, there, we tasted several varieties of
cakes covered with chocolate. The many hundred employees are
provided with a good library, dining-hall, bath-rooms and dressing-
rooms.
Most tourists pass by Aix-la-Chapelle, but we felt that such
a historic spot should not be neglected. The warm sulphur springs
at Aix are visited annually by thousands of invalids.
The Town Hall, begun in 1353, is the chief point of interest.
Within its walls were, doubtless, signed three famous treaties;
namely, the peace compact between Louis XIV. and Spain, in 1668;
that of Aix-la-Chapelle, terminating the Austrian W^ar of Succes-
sion in 1748, and the treaty of 18 18, when the German armies
were recalled from France. In the Kaisersaal, fifty-five yards long
by twenty yards wide, thirty-seven German emperors have been
370
THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA CHAPELLE
crowned. Upon the side walls are eight frescoes, four Ijy Alfred
Rethel, valuable both from a historic and artistic point of view.
They illustrate, chiefly, scenes from the life of Charlemagne, but one
is entitled the "Emperor Otho III. opening the Burial-Vault of
Charlemagne." The aged emperor was interred sitting upright, in
full coronation robes, with scepter and ball in hand. When the vault
was opened, nearly two hundred years later, the skeleton, still per-
fect, was found in the same position, and wearing the robes and
crown with the dignity of the living Charlemagne. The Emperor
CATHEDRAL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE
Otho is depicted kneeling in homage before this ghastly sovereign,
whose figure is illuminated by the torches of the workmen.
The marble slabs which composed Charlemagne's tomb were
converted by Frederick Barbarossa into a throne, used thereafter at
the coronation of the emperors. The bones were transferred to a
sarcophagus, and, later, to the reliquary where they now are. This
receptacle is in the Treasury of the cathedral, which boasts of
possessing the most precious relics in the world. The royal insig-
372 THE RHINE, COLOGNE, AND AIX-LA-CHAPELLE
nia were removed from Aix to Paderborn, in 1794, and, four years
later, to Vienna, where you will remember that we saw them.
The treasury is in a chapel opening out of the octagon, erected
b)- Charlemagne between 796 and 804; it is now the central
part of the cathedral. Here are kept the P'our Great Relics, i. e.,
the swaddling clothes of the infant Christ; the blood-stained cloth
in which the body of John the Baptist was wrapped; the linen
cloth with which the Saviour was girded on the cross; and the
robe of the Virgin. These are believed by most Roman Catholics
to be the originals. An Irish gentleman, who was among the group
looking at the relics, when we were, informed us that he had seen
all those of importance in the world, and considered these the
most authentic.
The German soldiers wear handsome uniforms, some with
white broadcloth collar and cuffs, which are always spotless. This
is also true in Italy and Austria. On the Continent, even the
street car drivers wear suits of fine cloth, with light-colored trim-
mings. How they keep so free from dust is a m)-stery, but prob-
ably their neat appearance is largely due to the cleanliness of the
streets.
We had read that in Germany women were hitched with the ox
to the plow, but supposed that such customs belonged to the Mid-
dle Ages. Not so ! Yesterday, we were eyewitnesses to just such
a sight; the man guided the plow, and the woman trudged beside
the ox. It is a common thing for the women, like the donkeys,
to carry huge loads strapped to their backs, and yet Germany
boasts of being an enlightened country.
It seems to us that the Germans have little patience with
people unfamiliar with their ways, and none at all with those who
are unable to speak tht-ir language. But, if they are not generally
agreeable, they are upright and energetic, and we respect them for
these qualities.
CHAPTER XXIV
THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
^HE scenery clum^etl rapidlv as, leaving Aix, we entered
)\ Holland. The mountains and dense forests disappeared,
and, in their stead, were marshy meadows intersected
by rivers and canals. The verdure became lighter in
color, and the only objects that broke the line of the
horizon were the sails of \\indmills, and an occasional
church spire.
We stojiped a couple of hours at the interesting town of
Maastricht, the capital of the Dutch part of the province of Lim-
burg. Just outside the town gates are the Petersberg quarries,
whose subterranean lal)\'rinth is visited bv thousands, each ^•ear.
The stone, a chalky tufa mixed with shells, fossils and bones, has
been deposited by the ocean. It is sawed into blocks, and hardens
on exposure; the excavations date from the time of the Romans.
Holland, like Venus, was born of the sea, for the greater part
of its surface has been recovered from the ocean. The canals, on
which float craft used in carrying on traffic, helj) to drain the land,
the smaller ones marking the border lines of farms. The sea, at
all times, a formidable enemy of the Netherlands, has also been a
jirotector against invasion; ior the network of canals and ditches
could not easilv be traversed by those unacquainted with their
intricacies. Peat bogs cover the greater part of Northern Holland.
The peat, which is a partially decomposed vegetable matter, shows
mosses, heather and even the trunks of pine trees in its composi-
tion. It is dried, and used extensively for fuel.
A large part of the country is below the level of the sea, and
its safety depends upon dykes. They are made of mud and sand,
planted either with pines or with ash trees, the interlocked and
spreading roots of which form strong foundations. Sometimes, they
373
374
THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AXD DELFT
are covered with small branches of willow, woven together and
hlled with clay. The most important dyk'es are covered by flat-
headed nails, set closely together in order that the teredo worm,
which is so destructive, ma}' be kept out of the wood. It is said
that 6,000,000 florins are spent annually in protecting the land.
Until about thirty-five years ago, the water in the bogs defended
by the dykes was removed by means of pumps run b)' gigantic
windmills, but steam is now almost universally employed. These
MARSH LANDS OF HOLLAND
windmills, which pepper the landscape, have sails sometimes sixty
feet in length and are often used in the manufacture of paper,
and for grinding corn.
Low sand hills called dunes, which have been thrown up by
the action of the waves, extend along the coast. Tlie matted roots
of the reed grass, which grows upon these dunes, prevent them
from encroaching upon the arable land.
As rain falls nearl}' every da}- in the year, and ftigs are fre-
quent in Holland, its general appearance is softened by the gray
atmosphere, and, therefore, this country is a delight to the artists,
who flock there from all over the world.
When we approached the capital, the day was nearly spent.
As far as the eye could see, were green pasture lands, crossed by
shining bands of water; in the deep grass, cattle were grazing, the
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376 THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
Dutch cattle that artists love to jxiint, with big blotches of brown
and white on their sleek sides. In the distance were the faint out-
Hnes of the cit\-, enveloped in the radiance of the sun, that was slowly
sinking into the sea. It seemed as if we were looking into the
open gates of the New Jerusalem with the glory shining tlirough.
The Hague was once the hunting ground of the Counts of
Holland, and was therefore called, 'S. Graven Hage, or "the count's
hedge." It has many broad, shady streets and large scpares.
The style of architecture is homely and unpretentious, narrow, red
bricks being generally used as building material. The Hall of the
Kni^rhts, the Chambers of the States General, and the Courts of
Justice form a group of mediaeval buildings on the southeast side
of the Vyver.* Not far away is the Mauritshuis, containing a collec-
tion of pictures made by the House of Orange.
The artist, Rembrandt van Ryn, born at Leyden in 1607, might
be called the pride of Holland. He was both a realist and an
idealist, for the rudest subject which he treated was filled with
the poetry that always emanates from truthfulness of purjiose.
Rembrandt was married early in life to Saskia van Ulenburgh, a
delightful companion, if one may judge by her picture in "The
Breakfast," where she is portrayed seated upon her husband's knee.
As a painter of lights and shadows, he was unsurpassed, and as
an etcher, his superiority over all others is admitted. Rembrandt's
earhest manner in painting is represented by five works, including
the famous "School of Anatomy, " a picture well known to students
of medicine, as well as to lovers of art, iox copies are found in many
medical colleges in Europe and America. It depicts a scene in a
dissecting room. The anatomist, Nicolaus Tulp, is lecturing on a
sinew of the arm of a suljject, lying at full length on the tabk';
about liim are grouped several surgeons, but the position of the
lecturer indicates that he is speaking to others beyond this group,
and not visible in the picture ; thus, the scope of the canvas seems
to be enlarged. The masterly treatment of light and shade cannot
be described. One always feels the thick darkness of a Rembrandt,
and it is a relief when a figure emerges from the shadows into the
golden light so cleverly introduced.
* A fish ]iom
THE BREAKFAST, DRESDEN GALLERY
378 THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
Of course, we admired Paul Potter's Bull, a canvas that the
French captured and carried oft to the Louvre. While there, it
ranked as the fourth picture in the world, in importance; after-
wards, it was restored to the Dutcli Government. I am afraid,
however, that I lingered lonf^est in front of the cheerful, home
picture called the "Youn.i^ Housewife," painted by my Dutch
favorite, Gerard Dou. I cannot enjoy all the works of Dutch
masters, because many of them are so hopelessly ugly. In a rep-
resentation of the Madonna, one expects to see a sweet, intelli-
gent face and a graceful form, not a pear-shaped wooden mask
without expression, coupled with a contorted body and lankv limbs.
To be sure, such pictures were the best that the artists could jinv
cluce in their times; in fact, it was "their way," but, then, it is some
people's "way" to be ridiculous. Nevertheless, they need not be
admired for it.
From the picture gallerv, we took a tram to Laan van Meer-
dervoort, a fine avenue ujxm which is the home of Mesdag, the
greatest of Dutch marine painters. His pictures of the North
Sea beach at Scheveningen are well known in America. We rang
the bell at the entrance of the small brick lodge, which is con-
nected by a covered passage with the mansion. The maid, who
answered the bell, was attired in a neat gown and kerchief, and
wore the oddest Dutch headdress that we have yet seen. Wings
of lace spread out from a close-fitting cap, and elaborate gold or-
naments, joined bv a band incircling the head, emerged from
under the muslin border above the temples. Having heard that
the artist was always gracious to Americans interested in art, I sent
up my card with the name of our Art Club in one corner. In a few
moments, the maid returned and we were ushered through corri-
dors, hung with costly tapestries and furnished with cabinets con-
taining rare specimens of porcelain, into the Studio. The panels
of the doors were covered with sketches; one, of a dear old ladv,
whose face was framed in a quaint cap; evidentl}', a family por-
trait. But we had little time to look about us, for, from behind a
canvas that blocked one end of the room, there appeared a figure
with hand outstretched in welcome, and a hearty voice greeted us.
Mynheer Mesdag is a large and well formed man of about
THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AXD DELFT
379
fifty-five, with kiiulK- I)lue eyes, ruddy skin and the provcrhiahy
bkifi Dutch niannris. He speaks excellent English, and seemed
very nuuh interested in hearing about our artists. He said he
hoped that American students would not come abroad with the
idea of studying any master; but he would urge them to learn
drawing and coloring, thoroughly, and then go straight to Nature and
copy her, not the work of some man. He affirmed that many
came to Holland and spent months copying the style and method
of prominent artists, thereby destroying ori'^innlitx-.
In the studio there was a fine marine upon which the artist
had been working. It suggested the story of the man, who, gazing
at a realistic painting of the sea, forgot the gilded frame, and,
imagining that he was on the shore, began to disrobe, prepara-
tory to a plunge. The paintings of the Barbison School, which
are owned by Mesdag and exhibited with others in his galleries, form,
undoubtedly, the largest and finest private collection of that School,
in Europe. It includes thirty pictures by Daubigny, and a number
by Corot, Millet, Rousseau and others. The modern Dutch School
is well represented, and it was a treat to see again Joseph Israel's
"Alone in the World," that pathetic picture which daily attracted
38o THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
crowds during the Columbian Exposition. In the corridors are fine
specimens of wood carving and bronzes.
After taking us through the suites of rooms, and telHng inter-
esting stories connected with his treasures, the artist invited us to
visit his panorama, the "Beach at Scheveningen," about seven or
eight blocks from the house. This we did, and enjoyed it im-
mensely.
Naturally, after seeing such a splendid representation of the
beach, we were impatient to visit the real one; so we bearded a
car that took us along the "Old Road," and in less than half an
hour we were standing on the shore of the North Sea at Scheven-
ingen, one of the most fashionable seaside resorts in Europe.
Its season of two months begins July 15th, and closes September
15th. We were tokl by the head waiter of the hotel, where we
lunched on fresh turbot, that all the rooms at the various hotels
were already engaged. The Curhaus with its broad verandas is
the most prominent building and is quite close to the water. The
sea has so steadily encroached upon the land, that it threatens the
Curhaus; so, a great sea wall and promenade, extending for several
miles along the beach, is now in process of construction, and, at
present, spoils the pleasure of those desiring to go to the water's
edge. Beyond the line of grand hotels, whose dining-rooms over-
look the water, were numerous piiikcn, fishing-boats, drawn up
on the sand or putting out to sea; while, back on the dunes, lay
the village. It was ingulfed several centuries ago, and the old
Gothic church is now half a mile nearer the sea than when
erected. Thirty thousand people, it is said, visit Scheveningen each
season. The sands are as firm as a floor and as fine as table
salt. During bathing hours, the beach presents a very gay apjiear-
ance, bein^ literally covered with wicker chairs shaped like bee-
hives, tents, and portable bath houses drawn by horses.
We had great sport in the fish market with a couple of jolly
fishwi\es. I wanted to buy one of the ornamental headdresses
that they wore, luit the price was too high. A numlx'r of storks
are kept in the market, at tin' public expense; doubtless, because
the bird figures in the armorial bearings of the city.
We noticed inscriptions over the entrance of some of the city
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382 THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT
residences, and country houses in the suliurbs. Upon in(]uiry we
found that they were sentiments, placed there by the owner, sucli
as, "Rest and Happiness," "Joy and Peace." By the way, the
Dutch, hke the Germans, are very fond of sentimental inscriptions
on many things; even their beer mugs are so decorated. The sliops,
also, have certain odd features. For instance, instead of colored
lights in a drug store, there is a Turk's head, incircled by a turban,
to indicate the dispenser of medicines.
In Holland, we are able to get postage stamj^s in the hotels,
which is a comfort. In Italy, we were always obliged to go to a
tobacco shop for them.
Mrs. M. spent yesterday in Amsterdam, leaving me behind to
doctor a bad cold, and rest. She returned very enthusiastic over
the great, commercial capital of Holland, which, like Venice, stands
on piles and is intersected by canals, and a river. However, she
says it differs from the Italian city, as it possesses broad streets
with plenty of shade trees. The canals are often as wide as small
rivers, and are crossed by bridges traversed by street cars. There-
fore, it is more like a modern city, though very picturesque.
The North Sea Canal, built at a cost of 35,000,000 florins,
connects Amsterdam with the North Sea. In the middle of the
great dam which separates the North Sea Canal from the Zuider-
zee, are tine locks, the largest, 110 yds. in length; the gates, of
which there are fitty-six, weigh thirty-four tons, each. Mrs. M.
said that, although the locks were a fine sight, they did not seem
to her any more wonderful than those of the Sault Ste. Marie, in
Michigan. Mrs. M. also visited the Ryks Museum, wliich covers
nearly three acres and is filled with valuable works of art. There
she saw the celebrated "Night Watch" by Rembrandt.
As she entered the Zoological Garden (second in size only to
that of London) it began to rain, and the effect upon the parrots,
on perches beside the entrance, was comical. They set up such
a screaming and scolding that the wild beasts were aroused, and,
in a moment, the howls and roars were almost deafening.
Wilhelmina, the young, uncrowned Queen of Holland, is the
daughter of William HI. Her photographs are in every shop \vind(-w
and public building; one has only to mention her name to bring
384
THE HAGUE^ A.USTERDAAf, AND DELFT
a bright smile to the face of a Hollander. She is just sixteen, and
in two years will ascend the throne. Under the supervision of her
mother, Queen Emma, who is the regent, she is receiving the most
careful education, and already speaks several languages fluently.
Wilhelmina has a passion for pets, and owns a small menagerie
and aviary. In her walks, she is generally attended by a big Irish
setter. Skating is a favorite amusement in Holland, and it was
interesting to hear a shop girl speak of the young queen's skill in
that sport, and of her beauty and amiability. Though the aver-
ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN, AMSTERDAM
age Dutchman is satisfied with the present administration, all are
looking forward to the reign of this promising sovereign, whose
good sense and tenderness of heart are proverbial.
Leaving the Hague, July ist, we made a stop of two hours at
Delft, on our way to Brussels, via Rotterdam. It is a quaint, old
town, with broad ^anals, running through the center of the main
streets, which are bordered b}' lime trees. The river Schie flows
by it, and empties into the Maas at Delfshaven. On the Oude
Delft, one of the prettiest of the canals, is an old church with
a leaning tower, built in the 15th century. Opposite, is the Prinsen-
386
THE HAGUE, AMSTERDAM, AND DELET
hof, where William the Silent, the founder of Dutch independence,
was cruelly assassinated, in 1584, by a man named Balthasar Ger-
hard. We walked up the staircase where the deed was done,
and saw the ugly bullet holes in the old plaster. A tablet is set
into the wall above the spot where the monarch fell.
The porcelain industry of Delft, so celebrated in the i 7th cen-
WILHELMINA, QUEEN OF HOLLAND
tury, has been revived in late years, and a great quantity of Delft
ware is sent out, monthly, from the manufactory of Joost Thooft.
Mesdag's designs are used with great effect by the potters.
The Dutch women are inveterate house-cleaners; up with the
sun, they do not cease the rounds of scrubbing and polishing, until
it goes down again. I heard an amusing storv, once, about a cer-
THE HAGUE. AMSTERDAM, AND DELFT 387
tain Dutch preacher, who was unusually successful in drawint; large
congregations of women. He interested them by stating that, in
heaven, they would have bright, new pots and pans, and jilenty of
soap and sand to scrub with.
It is a pleasure to buv cooked food at the little shops, for the
counters are so white and clean, the knives scoured so brightly.
I am unable to satisfy my craving for Dutch buns, which are deli-
catelv browned and have a spicy flavor never tasted except in this
land of good cooks. I am sure that, when Dutch women go to
heaven, the}- are kept busy supplying the winged messengers with
these buns, that are so ethereal as to be suitable Angels' Food.
At Rotterdam, two hours more were spent in roaming about
the wharves and walking up and down the broad Boompjes, a
quay laid out like a park with trees, flowers and well kept walks.
Here the Dutch steamers plying between Rotterdam and neighbor-
ing towns, the Rhine and foreign jiorts, load and unload their
freight.
Standing on the cjuay and gazing at a ship just putting out,
whose nationality and destination were alike unknown to us, we
thought of the beautiful poem of "The Ship," by Wordsworth,
and, if vou are not already tired of my quotations, my friend, vou
will read it.
Where lies the land to which yon ship must go ?
Festively she puts forth in trim array;
As vigorous as a lark at break of day;
Is she for tropic suns, or polar snow?
What boots the inquiry? Neither friend nor foe
She cares for; let her travel where she may,
She finds familiar names, a beaten way
Ever before her, and a wind to blow.
Yet still I ask, what haven is her mark?
And, almost as it was when ships were rare,
(From time to time, like pilgrims, here and there
Crossing the waters) doubt, and something dark,
Of the old sea some reverential fear,
Is with me at thy farewell, joyous bark!"
,'/ HoUanc
CHAPTER XXV
BRUSSELS AND WATERLOO
c^ ^§J?LMOST everv one is familiar with the French monetary
system, which is used in Belgium, and it was a relief to
reach a country wliere we could count our change without
^^^cjj^ spending several minutes in the operation. The franc,
^^^ like the peseta and the lira, is worth about twenty cents
our money, and is divided into a hundred centimes. In
d and in Austria, we paid our bills in florins. After
ciossnig the Belgian frontier (.)ne might easily imagine himself
in France, for, although Flemish is still used in some of the prov-
inces, French is the official language. Nearly every one speaks it,
and most of the signs and the newspapers are also in French.
Brussels (population m 1892, 183,800) is a handsome citv, and
has an air ol importance and progress. In the u.pjier town, which
is built upon the heights, are the royal palaces, the embassies and
mansions of the nobility. On the Rue Royale is the house where
the celebrated ball was given bv the Duchess of Richmond, June
i6th, 1815, on the eve of the battle of Ouatre Bras.* Some claim
that the ball occurred on the evening before the battle of Waterloo,
but this has been decided to be impossible. The conflict at Quatre
Bras was so terrible that officers who took part in it could scarcely
have attended festivities on the following night; moreover, several
officers were found dead or wounded on the battlefield of Ouatre
Bras in the very dress in which the\' were dancing, when sum-
moned to the fray.
"There was a sound of revelry by night,
And Belgium's capital had gather' d then
* A small town about four miles from Genappe. Waterloo lies half way
between Ouatre Bras and Brussels.
388
B/^rSSf:LS .LVD WATERLOO 389
Her Beauty and her Chivalry, and briglit
The lamp shone o'er fair women and brave men;
A thousand hearts beat happily; and when
Music arose with its voluptuous swell.
Soft eves look'd love to eN'es which spake again,
And all went merry as a marriage-bell;
But husli! harkl a deep sound strikes like a rising knell!
"Did ye not hear it? — No; 'twas but the wind,
Or the car rattling o'er the ston}' street;
On with the dance! let jov be unconfined;
No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet
To chase the glowing Hours with fl\ing feet —
But. harkl — that heavy sound breaks in once more,
As if the clouds its echo would repeat;
And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before!
Arm! arm! it is — it is — the cannon's opening roar.
"Ah 1 then and there was hurrying to and fro.
And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress.
And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago
Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness;
And there were sudden partings, such as press
The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs
Which ne'er might be repeated; who could guess
If ever more should meet those mutual eyes,
Since upon night so sweet such awful morn could rise.
"And there was mounting in hot haste: the steed.
The mustering squadron, and the clattering car.
Went pouring forward with impetuous speed.
And swiftly forming in the ranks of war;
And the deep thunder peal on peal afar;
And near, the beat of the alarming drum
Roused up the soldier ere the morning star;
While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb.
Or whispering, with white lips — "The foe! They come!
thev come! "
The Palace of Justice is considered the largest architectural
work of the 19th century, its area exceeding that of St. Peter's at
Rome. It is oriental in st}ie, having an immense base from which
a pyramidal structure rises. From the terrace of this building, one
BA'CSSELS AXD ]VATRRLOO 391
obtains a splendid \ic\v of the lower town, which is intersected by
small canals and brandies of the Senne river. The fagade of the
Hotel de Ville, * in the lower town, is literally covered with statues.
The tower and turrets were onc(; covered with plates of gold.
Directly opposite is a remarkable specimen of semi-Gothic
architecture, the Maison tlu Roi. It was in this buildiuL; tliat the
Counts Egmont and Hoorn passed the night of June 4th, 1 568,
following the sham trial accorded them by the infamous Duke of
Alva, and previous to their execution.
No industr}^ so appeals to the feminine taste as that of lace-
making, for which Brussels is especially noted. There are two kinds
of "real lace;" "needle point," made with simple thread and needle,
and consequently, the most valuable, and "pillow lace, " made on a
cushion by means of pins and bobbins. The latter was invented
in Flanders. These two stvles date from the beginning of the
1 6th century, though lace in the shape of darned net, twisted loops
and embroidery was known long before that period. The earl}'
patterns in "needle point," doubtless, originated in Greece, were
transported to ^'enice, and thence to Flanders. We spent an hour
watching the women at work in one of the lace factories. They
were, without exception, the most pathetic-looking human beings
I ever saw. Their faces were colorless, and their eyes dim and
weak from the constant strain. Probablv no toilers are so poorly
paid or so hard-worked as these poor creatures. One, who was
making a very costly piece of "needle point," looked more like a
galvanized mummy than a woman.
In doing this work, the pattern is first sketched on paper,
attached to a piece of linen. Threads are then laid upon the lines
of the design and caught through to the linen by stitches, thus
forming a skeleton design of thread. The interstices are then filled
in with a needle and thread, and, when the pattern is entirely
finished, the stitches, which caught the skeleton design to the linen,
are cut, and the lace, freed from its support. With "pillow lace, "
the pattern drawn on the paper is pierced with minute holes by
an expert, who marks the places where the principal pins are to
*To\vn Hall.
392
BRCSSELS AND WATERLOO
be stuck, for guiding the threads. The pattern is then sewed to
the cushion, the ends of the threads on the different bobbins being
fastened to the top. We saw one girl working with 300 bobbins
on a piece of lace not over ten inches deep.
There were extensive show-rooms, where quantities of lace
were clisplaved for sale, and where voluble saleswomen discoursed
upon the low price of the gossamer fabric and the starvation
wages of the makers. It seems a sin to pay so small a sum as
ON, WATERLOO
they ask for lace; it is fully a thnxl less than in the United States.
One feels like making a gift to the women, wlio have no share in
the profits, and yet do all the work.
Another point of interest is the Wiertz Museum, once the home
of the eccentric painter Wiertz (1806- 1865) who refu.sed to sell his
pictures, and painted for the love of his art, alone. Alter his death,
the government purchased his residence and collections, and now
admits the public free of charge, just as the artist would have
wished. The subjects are mostly of a grewsome order, as "Re-
suscitation of a person buried alive," and "Demented," painted in
a preparation neither water color nor oil, but a mixture of the two;
in a kind of distemiier, * I should sav.
* Painting in colors mixed with fig juice or white of egg, instead of oil.
I F F E^LINL."^0N
394
BRUSSELS AND WATERLOO
The trip to Waterloo, one of the world's great battlefields,
was both instructive and delightful. After an omnibus ride of one
and a half miles from the station of Braine I'Alleud, we alighted at
the Hill of the Lion, an artificial mound occupying the exact spot
where the Prince of Orange was wounded in the battle; it is
directly back of the place where the regiments of cavahy, the iiower
of the two armies, engaged desperately in the decisive struggle.
About 250 steps lead to the summit, where there is a bronze lion;
a Belgian lion, our guide informed us, as its tail hangs between
LA HAIE SAiNTE
the legs, while that of the British lion is curled up over its back.
Our party consisted of four English tourists, and tour Americans.
The English suide, who has lectured on the battlefield for vears,
knows every stick and stone, and I might almost say, every blade
of grass.
As we stood beside the lion, the most important part of the
field could be seen. Before us was the low, undulating line of
hills where the allied army commanded by Wellington took its
position; to the left, at right angles, ran a highroad almost on a
line with the monument; on that road was the farm. La Haie
Sainte, defended by a battalion of Germans. Just one mile distant
on the same road lay the farm. La Belle Alliance, Napoleon's
headquarters. Halfway between the two farms, so that the three
396
BRUSSELS AND WATERLOO
positions formed a triangle, stood tlie old Chateau of Hougomont,
defended bv troops of the allied army.
When the battle began, the two armies were drawn up in
semicircles, facing each other. There were about 68,000 men, all
told, in the allied army, and in that of Napoleon, about 72,000.
The Duke's command was made up of four or five diiferent ele-
ments, many of the soldiers, raw and unreliable, whereas their
antagonists were admirably disciplined and full of confidence. The
French artillcrv also was far superior to the English. The rain,
which had fallen steadi!\" throughout the niglit, had so thoroughly
saturated the ground that the moving of cannon was a difficult
task, and several of the best hours of the morning were wasted by
Napoleon in arranging his troops and guns, preparatory to the
attack.
It is said that the iirst shot was fired trom the Chateau of
Hougomont, which the French endeavored to take by assault;
manv times during the dav, the same attempt was made, only to
result in failure, the thick walls resisting shot and shell, and the
trees in the grove furnishing natural redoubts for the Brit-
ishers.
La Haie Sainte was captured liy the French, about five in the
afternoon. The numbers of the allied arnn' had been terribly re-
LEOPOLD II, KING OF BELGIUM
398
BRUSSELS AND WATERLOO
duced, hut their courage still remained unbroken, and the victories
of the day about balanced. In the meantime, relief had arrived
in the shape of the Prussian troops headed by the faithful Bliicher,
who had promised Wellington to come to his assistance. He had
dragged his men through the marshy valleys of St. Lambert and
the Lasne, with a determination second onl}' to that of Napoleon
himself. It was about five o'clock, when the Prussians opened fire
from Frichemont, and succeeded in a few hours, after severe losses,
in reaching and occupying Planchenois, a little to the rear of the
HOUGOMONT
French center at La Belle Alliance. During that time, the French
attacked the allied center and the famous charge of Maitland's
Guards, who had been concealed behind the hills, took place. The
French army was completely routed and, at last. Napoleon gave
up, in his despair endeavoring to dash into the thickest of the
hght, that he might end his disgrace by death; but he was pre-
vented by his Guards. About eight o'clock, he gave this final order
to his troops, "Tout est perdu! Sauve qui pent!"* and the de-
feated soldiers began their hurried retreat.
The guide explained that the meadows before us were a vast
cemetery, where trenches had been dug in which men and horses
* "All is lost! Save yourselves if \o\\ can I
Ii/iCSS£LS J-VD WATERLOO 399
were buried together. It took three days to clear the field of the
dead, of whom it is estimated that there were 50,000.
Various officers made requests as to the naming of the battle,
but they ditiered from one another, each wishing it to be named
from the quarter where he had been engaged. The Duke, there-
fore, thought best to avoid bad feeling by naming it after the
village of Waterloo, where his headquarters were located, three
miles from the field.
Thus ended this decisive battle, in which three world-renowned
commanders had taken part. Napoleon's iron will was broken.
Later, he was exiled, and died at St. Helena, May 5th, 1821.
Leopold II., the present king of the Belgians, was crowned,
December loth, 1865. Though he is deemed penurious, and lack-
ing in some agreeable qualities, Belgium has certain y prospered
amazingly during his reign. Queen Henriette Marie, a slender,
active woman, is much respected by her subjects. Like all the
rest of the world, this royal pair have had their trials, not the
least of them being the demented condition of the ex-Empress
Charlotte of Mexico, widow of Maximilian, and the King's sister.
The more we see of Brussels, the more favorably we are im-
pressed by it. It seems a cit}' of fine residences rather than a
commercial center. The working people are examples of courtesy
and hospitality, and an air of court elegance pervades the entire
metropolis.
"Truth-teller was our England's Alfred named;
Truth-lover was our English Duke.
Whatever record leap to light
He never shall be shamed." *
*Lord Tennvson.
91
CHAPTER XXVI
PARIS
'T last we are in Paris! — the Mecca of the tourist, a
metropohs of surli individuaht\-, desjiite its cosmopoHtan
population, that no one, be he scribe or orator, can ex-
actly set forth its irresistible charm. Nevertheless, the
city is a disappointment to me, in many ways. Though
:>r it is laid out on a grand scale, the buildings are too uniform
and the architecture is generally florid. A spirit of gaiety is in
the very atmosphere, but it seems to come principally from the
classes who frequent the dance halls, or occupy the seats in front
of the innumerable wine shops. Paris seems to be all open-air
cafes, and it is painful to see how many young men and, alas!
women too, sit at the tables, drinking the body-wrecking, soul-
destroying absinthe.* Paris flaunts her vices in the face of the
stran<rer, and seems amused if he is discomfited. We are told
not to judge the Parisian wife and mother bv the fashionably
dressed women, with rouged cheeks and pencilled brows, that
frequent the shops and theaters, and drive in the Bois de Boulogne.
It is to be regretted that we see so few women with that whole-
someness of face and manner to be expected in the mothers of a
nation. However, it is midsummer, and doubtless, many people
are at the summer resorts.
On the dav after our arrival, we sought to obtain a bird's-eye
view of the citv from the Eiffel Tower, in order to fix its plan in
our minds. In spite of the strength of this relic of the Exposi-
tion of i88q, it is airv and graceful, and its iron tranu'work, 0S4
ft. in height, is no detriment to the environment. Standing upon
the topmost platform, we could see that Paris occupies both banks
* A cordial of braiuh' flavored ^\■ith wormwood.
400
PARIS
401
of the Seine, and that there are two islands in the river, within
the citv hmits, namelv, the Cite and St. Louis.
The Cite was the seat of ancient Paris. There, the Cathe-
dral of Notre Dame was established in i 163. Near by, on the
site of the old royal pal-
ace, is the Palace of Jus-
tice, the Sainte Chapelle, *
and the Conciergerie.
The latter is a prison,
where most of the cele-
brated victims of the
Re\olution were confined;
among others, Marie An-
toinette and Robespierre.
At the southeast end of
the Cite is the morgue,
where bodies of persons
who have met with vio-
lent deaths are exposed
for identification.
On the right bank of
the Seine is the Place de
la Bastille, where for-
merly stood the great cas-
tle-prison; a splendid col-
umn bearing the Genius
iif Liberty now marks
ihe spot.
The Place de la Con-
corde, probably the largest
^'^^^^ ™"" square in Europe, is situ-
ated between the gardens of the Tuileriesf and the Champs Elvsees.
In this square, between 1793
died bv the guillotine.
and 1795, more than 2,800 persons
to the place
Brought in a common cart
* Chapel connected with the old ro3'al palace.
"j" Tlie royal palace destroyed by the Communists in 1S71.
402
PARIS
where they had often driven in state, the sovereigns, Louis XVI.
and Marie Antoinette, were put to death by the people who thirsted
tor their blood.
Beyond this fatal spot, at the top of the long avenue of the
Champs Elysees, rises the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, called
the Arch of the Star because of the twelve avenues that radiate
s^i-^i^-^.r^r'
r^
NOTRE DAME
from it. One of them leads to the Bois de Boulogne, a forest
park of 2,250 acres, including the lakes.
Near the Eiffel Tower, on the left bank of the river, is the
Champs de Mars, an open space where, on July 14th, 1790, the
King, with others, took the oath of fidelity to the new constitution;
here, also, three important expositions have been held within the
last thirty years.
Far to the north is tlie hill, Montmartre, while incircling the
city are small towns; St. Cloud, Versailles, Fontainebleau and St.
Denis being the most important. The panorama, as we took a
final look, seemed like a gigantic piece of tapestry woven in shades
of gray, brown and green. What a history this tapestry suggests!
the varying historv of a long line of sovereigns and their restless
PARIS
403
subjects; of times of peace; of bloody strife; and yet these seem-
ingly capricious people have made their power felt to the utter-
most parts of the globe; they have been among the foremost in
Science, Art and Letters.
From the Eiffel Tower, we drove to the Luxembourg Palace,
erected (16 15- 1620) for Marie de Aledicis, second wife of Henry
IV., to resemble her old home, the Pitti Palace, in Florence.
fc--.
?;,m*
GROTESQUE 01. tiOTRE DAME
Although the French structure is impressive, and the gardens are
beautiful with unicjue fountains and shaded walks, it does not com-
pare with the Italian palace. A portion of the building is used
by the Senate. In a new building, connected with the palace, the
works of living artists are exhibited. Ten years after the death of
a distinguished master, his works are usually transferred from this
gallery to the Louvre, or to provincial museums.
m ^
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE
PARIS
405
In the Luxembourg is Detaille's painting of tlic "Soldier's
Dream, " which we especially admired. It represents a battlefield
at break c^f day. The sleeping soldiers are stretched upon the
ground in every conceivable position; overhead, in the soft, gray
clouds, from which the blackness of the night is just rolling away,
and touched bv the first glinting light of the coming morn, is the
THE LUXEMBOL F-'_.
army marching to battle, with Ixanners fl}ing and the light of antici-
pated victory on each beaming face.
Not far from the Luxembourg, is a group of important build-
ings, the Pantheon, the Sorbonne and the church of St. Etienne
du Mont. The former occupies the site of the tomb of St. Gene-
vieve, the patron saint of Paris, who by her purity and faith is
said to have persuaded Attila, the Hun, to abandon an attack on
Paris. She went forth alone to meet this warrior, whose very
name struck terror to the hearts of the bravest, so dreadful was
the record of the cities plundered and the thousands slain by him.
The Pantheon has the t(_)rm of a Greek cross surmounted by a
vast dome; it is reached by a flight of broad steps; the sculptured
relief in the tympanum represents France bestowing wreaths upon
her sons, illustrating the inscription, ' 'Aux grands lioninies la patrie
CHILDHOOD OF STE. GENEVIEVE
4o8
PARIS
reconnaissantc." * Splendid frescoes cover the walls of the interior.
Especially charming and poetical is the work of Puvis de Cha-
vannes in his portrayal of the childhood of St. Genevieve, and
Lenepvcu has noblv depicted the heroism of Joan of Arc. Below in
the vaults are the tombs; among others of note, we saw that of
Victor Hugo.
On the Place du Pantheon is the church of St. Etienne du
Mont, with a memorial chapel dedicated to St. Genevieve, and
containing her remains, inclosed in a silver and gold casket.
TOMB OF VICTOR HUGO
We were greath/ interested in the Sorbonne, a great institu-
tion of learning founded bv Robert de Sorbon, which occupies the
old building erected in 1629 by Cardinal Richelieu. The new
building is not vet finished. Within the Sorbonne are several
masterpieces of Puvis de Chavannes. On one of the walls in the
hall where lectures on chemistry are given, is a lurid painting by
Besnard, dated 1896. It is called the "h^)irthof Eifc from Death;"
one half of it is like fire; the other, like sunlight. In the center,
under the blazing rays of a noonday sun, and h'ing with head
'The grateful Country to her great men."
TOMB uF bTE. GENEV.EVE
FARfS
411
downward on a wave of vegetation, is the nude corpse of a woman.
An infant ghoul is seeking to draw nourishment from the lifeless
bosom, while a swarm of butterflies feeds on the germs coming from
the mouth; evervwhcre in the design, one sees life sustained by
death.
Every evening after dinner, we take a ride on the top of a
double-decked omnibus, selecting a new route each time. This is
a simple matter, as we are staying at the Hotel Ste. Marie on the
I'Vlt:: > iF RICHELIEU, CHURCH OF THE SORBONNE
Rue de Rivoli, about a block from the Louvre, where these vehicles
from all parts of the citv stop. Under the guardianship of the
driver and conductor, we can ride into the most dangerous quarters
of Paris and, without descending from our lofty perch, see a great
deal of the life of the common people; for the weather is so warm
that they almost live out of doors. We noticed several families,
one night, eating their supper in the open air. Thev had brought
out rickety tables, and stuck a candle in a bottle, for illumination.
The cafe tables in these quarters are crowded with dissipated-
looking men and reckless women, but nowhere in Paris does one
see such abject poverty as in Italian cities. There is a sprightli-
412
PARIS
ness, an energy about the Parisians that is attractive, no matter
what their surroundings may be.
Though many Americans pride themselves on their superior
way of doing things, they do not know how to Hve as well as their
French cousins. Here, both rich and poor have their hours of
leisure; thev do not grind cverv moment as we do, but take an
HOTEL DE VILLE
hour each da\- to sit down and sip their wine or coffee and rest.
How little we Americans know how to rest! Many of our men
stand up at a counter to eat a luncheon, spending, at the most,
ten minutes over it, while the Parisian will take a half hour, out of
the busiest part of the day, to drink a glass of beer; but in that
half hour, he will relax nerves and muscles, and be better prepared
in mind and bod}- to continue his work. I heard the other day of
a dealer in picture frames, who every summer hangs out a sign:
"Gone to the seashore for three weeks." Here is a man with
gumjition enough to rest! He shuts up his sh<.)p wliile he and his
employees take a vacation. What a contrast to our average busi-
ness man! His wife goes to the seashore, while he stays behind
and works all the harder to pay her bills.
PARIS 413
One evening, the omnibus took us up to Montmartre, past the
old cemetery, and down a broad avenue where nightly turn the
huge, red sails of thr Moulin Rouge,"" one of the popular dance
halls; a mill that grinds out all the sweetness and innocence of
the youth that enter its doors.
We have taken our meals at many difierent restaurants during
the three weeks that we have been in Paris, and have enjoyed the
French cooking, which is sujiposed to be unexcelled; but we prefer
the Dutch. In Holland, we found more appetizing food than in
any other country. The other day we dined at a modest little
establishment, where the price for dinner is fixed at two francs.
We were permitted to choose from the menu, and, of the side
dishes, selected one of chicken, with a very high-sounding name.
Imagine our consternation, when there was placed before us a slice of
toast on which were the head, comb, and yellow feet of a rooster.
When we recovered from our astonishment, we had a heartv laugh,
for they looked so comical. What there was to eat on the head
and claws is still a mystery, as you may be sure that the dish
went back to the kitchen, untouched.
In order to observe the manner of serving in one of the best
Parisian restaurants, we took dinner one day at the Cafe de la
Paix, connected with the Grand Hotel. I can assure you that we
left with a greater respect for American modes of living than ever.
The table appointments did not equal ours, nor was the meal as
well cooked, in our estimation. When the roast was served, a
waiter wheeled a small stand, upon which it was placed, close to
our table and sliced the meat, thick or thin, rare or well done, as
we desired. The prices are exorbitant at such grand establish-
ments, and, if one dares to give the waiter a moderate fee, he gen-
erally stares at it, and then at the donor, and, after waiting a
moment to see if is to be enlarged, walks off with an air of dis-
dain, and without a word of thanks.
An American is amazed to see how the French treat the
' ' Staff of Life. " The bread is baked in loaves about three feet
long, and sold bv weight. In delivering it to the families in an
* Red Mill.
414
PARIS
apartment house (and few people occupy an entire house), the
baker's boy stands the loaves on the floor, leaning them against the
door. They are never wrapped, and it is a common thing to see
servants coming from the bakeshops with bread under their arms.
One of the most important churches of Paris is the Madeleine.
It was founded by Louis XY. in 1764, but not completed until
1842, although several architects tampered with it, during the reign
r
THE MADELEINE
of Napoleon I. and Louis XVIII. Over 12,000,000 francs are
said to have been spent upon this church, which has several times
been the scene of riots and massacres. It is like a Greek temple
in appearance, being without windows, and surrounded bv a colon-
nade. During the Commune, nearly every house about the Ala-
dcleine was destroyed by fire, or riddled by bullets, but the church
suffered little injury, so massive is its construction.
Another liuilding in the classic style is the Bourse,* which is
open for business everv week day at noon. The shouts of the
brokers are deafening about two o'clock, when tlie great hall pre-
sents a lively appearance.
* The Stock Exchange.
41 6 PARIS
As vou remember, M. jean Francois Raffaelli, the well known
French artist, has visited America, where I became quite well ac-
quainted with him. One afternoon, we paid a visit to his home
in Paris and were most delightfullv entertained. He lives in a
pleasant house about which are some fine old trees and a pretty
garden, a rare thing in a citv where land is so valuable. We found
the painter in his studio, looking younger and more truly Parisian
than ever. He presented his daughter, a maiden witli the head of
a Greek goddess, and as sweet and modest as a June rosebud.
After a chat about people and art, we were shown into the dining-
room. The walls of this room, and those of the studio, are covered
with linen painted by the artist, in a conventional design. All over
the house are familiar sketches, in oils, water colors, bronze and
plaster, of the characteristic life of Paris. If ever a man was im-
bued with the spirit of his native place it is Rafifaelli. Nature has
been more than liberal in her favors to this son of France. Gifted
with a. keen perception, he has the power of delineating the ma-
terialism in his countrymen, and yet is spiritual enough to make
one feel, as Millet does, all the poetry in seemingly sordid things.
There was one sketch of an old street sweeper resting on his broom,
his toil-worn hands for the moment idle, while his thoughts seemed
to wander afar ofif; perhaps, to the time of youth and love, when
life was all before him. As I studied the face, all the unsatisfied
longing of early manhood, all the resignation of advanced age
seemed to strive for mastery in the wrinkled visage. Taking up
mv autograph album, the artist made a few strokes of the pen
under his name, and lo! there was a woman, her hair blowing
across her face, a Parisian woman: there could be none like her;
she is inimitable!
Raflaelli objects to being called an Impressionist, as he .so often
is; neither does he believe in the term, Realist or Idealist. He
affirms that all true artists are both realists and idealists; Raphael,
for example, though considered the head of the Idealist School,
was a realist when he painted the "Incendio del Borgo, " in the
Vatican. Courbet, who prided himself on his realism, was an
idealist when he said he would paint stones "so as to make them
think." RafTaelli prefers to be called a Characterist, for it requires
41 8 PARTS
greater art to bring out the character in the face of an old apple
woman on a street corner, than to paint the beaut}' of a Venus
rising from the sea.
During the reign of Napoleon III., Paris was transformed.
Hundreds of old buildings were torn down, that handsome boule\-ards
might be laid out and the streets made straighter and wider. The
Avenue de I'Opera is one of the finest; here, many of the best
shops are to be found. It extends from the Place du Theatre
Francais to the Place de I'Opera.
At the end of the avenue, and facing it, is the gorgeous Opera
House, Iniilt (1S61-1874) at a cost of about 47,000,000 francs, in-
cluding the land. The richest materials were used in its construc-
tion; marbles from Italy, porphyry from Finland, and granite from
Scotland. The exterior, despite its magnificence, is overdecorated
and "heavy, but the grand staircase and foyer are unsurpassed.
The steps, upon which forty persons can walk abreast, are of white
marble; the balustrades, of rosso antico* and the hand rail, of
Algerian onyx.
We heard the opera of "La Favorite," on the evening of Julv
13th. Though we bought low priced tickets, by paying a small
fee to one of the ushers, who were all women, we were seated in
a box. Between the acts, one can walk in the foyer, and there
have excellent opportunities to see the costumes of the women.
Many of the small theaters, such as those on the Chamixs
Elysees, advertise their performances by hiring four or six men to
chant the program for the evening, while walking down the streets
in front of the cafe tables. The two leaders start the tale, chant
a few lines, and the next two take it up.
On the morning of the same day, we rose at five o'clock,
and walked over to the Halles Centrales, the great market in the
heart of Paris. When I tell you that over 66,000,000 lbs. of meat
alone are brought to this market yearly, to say nothing of fish,
oysters, poultry and game, you will realize the importance of the
place. Every market woman is an artist in her own way, and takes
pride in the arrangement of her stock. The hsh were laid in pat-
* Antique red marble.
GRAND STAIRCASE, OPERA HOUSE
420 PARIS
terns or rows, live lobsters placed s}-mmetrically on masses of brown
seaweed, while their boiled brethren were trussed and set up as
stiff as knights in armor. At the vegetable stalls, the same love
of harmony was apparent. The potatoes, polished until the\- shone,
were lighted up by a dash of color, such as a pile of tomatoes with
leaves attached, or a p3-ramid of carrots or radishes. At the fruit
stands, rosy-cheeked peaches lay in dewy grape leaves, side by
side with pale greengages and purple damson plums. Raspberries,
each one with its hull attached, were heaped next to a mound of
hazelnuts in their outer shells. Pyramids of roses, garden pinks
and lilies filled the morning air with sweet odors, but, prettiest of
all were the market girls from the country, tresh and bright-eyed,
a gladsome relief from the fashionable dames with laced waists and
powdered faces.
As we were walking leisurely along between the banks of
flowers, I suddenly felt a light blow on the back of my head and
then heard a merry laugh. Turning, I met the roguish eyes of a
boy who had struck me with a bunch of ferns. The market girls
seemed to enjoy our surprise and amusement, immensely.
As we walked back from the market, we crossed the Seine
and visited the Cathedral of Notre Dame. There is something
mysterious and fascinating about this building, with its massive
towers and quaint sculptures. The stone monsters, that perch on
the balustrade above the third story, seem to grin and blink with
an almost malevolent air. Twice this renowned church has lieen
desecrated by the mob that, during \.\\v Revolution, was lost to all
sense of decency.
The castle-prison of the Bastille was destroyed bv tlie people
on July 14th, 1789, at the beginning of the Revolution. W th the
cry, "Down with the Bastille!" a fierce mob, bent on destruction,
and gathering strength in numbers as it swept through the streets,
incircled the moat and, notwithstanding the defenses of a strong
wall and the guns, soon accomplished their object. Th.e prison,
commanded by De Launay, was guarded by less than 150 men.
The provisions were limited, and the supply of water was soon cut
off. After a heroic defense, De Launay capitulated, with the under-
standing that the garrison should be protected. But, as is generally
a.22
PARIS
the case, the undisciplined and reckless mob became uncontrollable
and tl-e promises were not kept; although some of the common
soldiers were saved, the officers were slain.
The celebration of the fall of the Bastille took place as usual
on July 14th. The city was most elaborately decorated with flags
and buntin'T, and even the statues were huuij with wreaths. All
the morning, people were pouring out of the houses, and by two
o'clock in the afternoon the streets were crowded. About that
AVENUE DU BOiS DE BOULOGNE
time, taking a cab with a jolly, red-faced driver, who proved most
skillful m selecting points of vantage, and obliging about explaining
things, we started for the Bois de Boulogne, where M. Felix Faure,
the President of the French Republic, was to review the troops at
Longchamp. In order to see him twice, we halted on the Champs
Elysees, both going and coming, and were well rewarded by the
sight of a handsome, middle-aged man with white hair and mus-
taches, whose gracious bearing and winning smile will linger long
in our memory. He was seated in a landau drawn by four
horses, with outriders, and escorted by a detachment of the Paris
Guards, whose furious pace and peculiar red and black uniform
gave them the appearance of a band of Indians in war paint and
feathers. The maneuvers of the cavalry were especially interest-
ing, and the regiments made a striking picture as they marched,
with their helmets glittering in the sun, and naked swords upright;
PARIS
423
but I am afraid we forgot France when our rubicund coachman
franticall)- assisted us to a standing position on the seat of our
carriage, exclaiming in excited tones, ''I'oila Ics Chinois!" In a
moment, dt)wn the avenue dashed a company of Guards, followed
1)\- three carriages filled with Chinese in gorgeous apparel, and, in
the first, who, but Li Hung Chang, the greatest of Chinese states-
men! He is a fine-looking man, apparently about sixty years old,
with long mustaches and a small beard.
When we saw him, he
GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES
was laughing heartily with his companion, evidently, about the
rapid rate at which they were being whirled along.
The illuminations in the evening were beautiful; all the im-
portant buildings were decorated with the sparkling banner of the
Republic, and incircled with lights, like ropes of diamonds. We
were surprised to find that, instead of electricity, tiny, colored
cups, containing oil and a lighted wick, were used. In every square
was a band stand, whence floated the strains of a waltz or two-
step. Ever}'body was happy; a couple would be walking soberly
along, when, all at once, the music would strike up and they would
424 PARIS
break into a hop, skip and jump and away they would go in the
merry whirl of dancers. They would often occupy the entire street,
stirring up clouds of dust; for carriages were not allowed to circu-
late through the center of the city, after eight o'clock. We sat
down at one of the many hundred tables in front of the Cafe dc
la Paix, on the Place de I'Opera, and enjoyed some delicious ices,
while we watched the crowd for a couple of hours. The band
stand opposite was brilliant with red and yellow lanterns, and the
Grand Hotel behind us floated the Chinese flag from the apartments
occupied by Li Hung Chang. There was very little real dancing
here, on account of the density of the crowd. Many made des-
perate efforts, but after a few rounds invariably ending in an embrace
and a resounding smack, they would give it up and await the op-
portunity for another turn. No one seemed in the least shocked
or surprised at the open love-making. It appeared to be perfectly
proper for a well-dressed woman to promenade the boulevard with
her escort's arm about her, and, if a pair of lovers wished to ex-
change a salute, no one commented or smiled, but took it as a
matter of celebration, merely. Everywhere, until after midnight,
ladies in couples, many of them foreigners like ourselves, walked
about unnoticed. I am told by the condense'" of our hotel that it
is not unusual for ladies to go about at night without escorts, on
holidays, and at her suggestion, we have attended the Theatre
Francais, and the Opera without the least annoyance.
Now and then, one becomes tired of mart}Ted saints on walls
and tombs, but of the living people, never, and nowhere in Paris
can thev l-^e better studied and enjo\-ed than in the Champs Elysees.
On both sides of the broad avenue leading to the Arc de Triomphe,
are public gardens filled with booths, miniature theaters. Punch
and Judy shows and merry-go-rounds. Lovers sit side by side on
the comfortable seats under the trees, and little children, with their
white-capped nurses, frisk about with hoops and balls. Ever_\\vhere
are the good-natured, pleasure-loving people. It takes so little to
make Paris content! I mean the Paris of the blouse and cap. A
tune from the fiddler, a few feet of pavement, a con\-enient wine
* Portress.
426 PARIS
shop, and they are dehriously happv. Parisian anger lasts but a
moment. I have seen two cabmen Hy at each other as if about to
indulge in hsticufts over some disputed point; but, in a moment,
the war of words would be over, and they would pass on amid
the laughter of the bystanders, who dearly love a row. The people,
always impulsive, jealous of their rights, yet have a wholesome
respect tor the law; a policeman does not need to argue; his com-
mands are obeyed, and, no matter how great the crush of carriages
or pedestrians, all are managed so skillfully and with so little fuss
that one is filled with admiration.
One evening about six o'clock, as we were going to our hotel,
we saw lour }'oung men and women abreast, skipping down the
center of one of the principal streets, their arms locked about each
other, kicking up their heels, and singing at the top of their lungs.
We wondered what Chicago people would think, if such a thing
should occur on State Street. After all, is it not refreshing to find
a place where people who must live in the city can let off some of
the pent-up steam, and not feel obliged to bottle up their emotions
for fear of disturbing the peace?
The Louvre is probabh' the best-known ot all the art galleries
in the world. The foundations of this vast palace, standing between
the Rue de Rivoli and the Seine, were laid by Francis I., and the
building was continued by subsequent monarchs. In the Louvre,
Margaret of Valois was married to the King of Navarre, afterwards
Henry IV. of France. Five days later, August 24th, 1572, the
horrible massacre of the Huguenots, instigated by the infamous
Catherine de Medicis, took place, the signal being given from the
palace. The greater part of the vast pile has been used as a
museum, since 1793, and is open to the public, free of charge.
Nearly every artist of note is represented in this treasure-house of
statuary, paintings and curios.
Of all the marbles imbodying the beauty, grace and nobility
of womanhood, none can surpass the Venus de Milo. Discovered
in 1820 by a peasant on the island of Melos, it was purchased by
the French, and installed in a room by itself in the Louvre. This
room is the last of a long suite, and, as one enters it, the figure
of the goddess is seen standing out against a crimson background.
VENUS DE MiLO
428 PARIS
Among the lar2;e paintinos that hue the picture gallery, two
comparatively small ones seem to ' ' sing out, " as an artist would say.
They are Leonardo da Vinci's " Mona Lisa," whose magnetic gaze
seems to follow one about the room, and the ' ' Laughing Girl, " bv
Frans Hals, the Dutch portrait painter (15S4-1666). Mona Lisa was
the wife of Leonardo's friend, Francesco Giocondo, and, in this por-
trait it is said that the artist imbodied all he considered most beau-
tiful in woman. He worked upon it for four years, painting and
repainting, never feeling that it was complete. Very attractive also
is the "Broken Pitcher," showing the delicate coloring, the tender
modelling of Greuze. Murillo's masterpiece, the " Lnmaculate Con-
ception," hangs in Le Salon Carre,* where the chief treasures are
collected.
No finer schools of art exist at the present day than are
found in Paris, the most prominent, doubtless, being the Ecole des.
Beaux Arts. Thousands of students, from all over the world, come
here, annual!)-, to avail themselves of its splendid opportunities.
The greater number live near the school, in tlie section known as
the Latin Quarter, which has been so admirabl\- described by Du
Maurier, and others. There is an art atmosplicre in Paris, impos-
sible elsewhere.
Of course, we went to see the Gobelin tapestries. Long ago,
in the 15th century, Jean Gobelin, a dyer, set up a modest estab-
lishment in Paris and began to weave tapestries. By the 17th
century, the manufactory had become so famous that it was pur-
chased and enlarged by the government. The tapestries are never
sold, but are reserved for the decoration of public buildings, or
presented to foreign courts and persons of high rank.
We saw the artists at work. The warp is strung on upright
frames, before which the weaver stands. The design is stamped
on the warp, as for embroidery, and the water color picture, which is
to be copied, hangs directly before the weaver. On his right, he has
a collection of hand shuttles, long pieces of wood, round at one
end where the yarn is wound, and pointed at the otlier. Glancing
backward at his design, he selects a color, and, with an automatic
* Tlie Square Hall.
THE BROKEN P iCHER
430
PARIS
movement of the left hand, separates the double threads of the
warp and thrusts the shuttle through; while, with the pointed end,
he presses the thread close against the thread last inserted. It is
exceedingly slow work. At rare intervals, silk threads are used,
^,\ :.l,,i;>^UISE DE POMPADOUR
and even gold, but, generally, wool, as it keeps its color longest.
The composition of the dyes is a secret known only to the manu-
facturers.
That pleasure-loving monarch, Louis XIV., having taken a dis-
like to the palace of St. Germain, decided to build another, more
sumptuous, at Versailles, about ten miles from Paris. The labor
and expense involved in such an undertaking were increased by
the fact that water had to be brought from a great distance.
DUCHES5E DE LA VALLtkRE
PARIS 433
Finally, however, he succeeded in carrying out his wishes and those
of his favorite, the Duchesse de la Valliere.
During the reign of his successor, Louis XV., Mme. de Pom-
padour was the ruling spirit at Versailles, where many extravagant
improvements were made, that her beauty and talents might have
an appropriate setting. Guizot says that Mme. de Pompadour was
fond of porcelain, and conceived the idea oi imitating Dresden
china in France. She, therefore, founded, first at Vmcennes and
then at Sevres, a porcelain manufactor\', which the king took under
his protection, requiring the courtiers to purchase the jiroduct, at
high prices.
In the time of Louis XVI., Versailles was sacked by a mob,
and here, on January i8th, 1S71, King William of Prussia was
hailed as the Emperor of Germany. It is now a mere show place
and museum.
Our first impressions of the palace were satisfactor}-, for the
general effect is harmonious, when seen from a distance; but a
nearer view reveals a distressing lack of harmony in the architec-
ture. There are five large courts, the most interesting being the
"Court of Honor," which contains a bronze equestrian statue of
Louis XIV., and also statues of eminent men. Here, the cynical
Cardinal Richelieu gazes at one with an imperious air; vonder, is the
noble figure of the Chevalier Ba\'ard, '' sans peur et sans reproche.^'*
The historical paintings, which cover the walls of endless suites
of rooms, are superb; but the other decorations are not what we
expected to see. Even the celebrated Gallery of Mirrors would
have been a disappointment, if it had not been for the elTtective
ceiling paintings by Charles Lebrun. From the windows one looks
down into the gardens.
The Hall of Diana, though lined with marble, is ugly, and
the room where Louis XI V. breathed his last is narrow and over-
decorated with carving and gilding. From the balcony of this
room, which overlooks the Court of Honor, the first chamberlain
pronounced the famous sentence, "' Lc roi est niort!"-\ immediately
*• 'Without fear and without reproach."
I --The King is dead."
PARIS
435
breaking his wand of office; then, taking a new op^, which he
held aloft, exclaimed, " Vive Ic roi/"*
Of the portraits, we most admired that ot Marie Antoinette,
bv her friend, Mme. Lebrun, and one of Napoleon's second wife,
Marie Louise, and her babe, the King of Rome.
Catching only a glimpse of the park with its fountains, stat-
ues and iine landscape gardening, we drove to the Grand Trianon,
ROOM OF LOU.S XIV., VERSAILLES
a villa about half a mile distant, erected by Louis XIV. for Mme.
de Maintenon.
As we traversed corridor, salon and chamber, the history of
this strong character filled our thoughts. Ambitious, determined
and imbued with a spirit of piety, she dominated the aging mon-
arch as no woman had been able to do in earlier years. "Mme.
de la Valliere had held sway over the young and romantic heart
of the prince. Mme. de Maintenon alone established her empire
over the man and king." "The date has never been ascertained ex-
actly of the king's private marriage with Mme. de Maintenon. It
took place eighteen months or two years after the queen's death.
* "Long live the King!"
MARIE LOUISE AND THE KING OF ROME
PARIS
437
The king was forty-seven, Alme. de Maintenon, fifty. She still
showed traces of great beauty, — an air of ease, and vet of restraint
and respect; a great deal of cleverness, with a speech that was sweet,
correct, in good terms, and naturally eloquent and brief."
Adjoining the villa, which is in the shape ol a horseshoe, and
only one story in height, is a museum of carriages. There is
DIARY OF MARIE ANTOINETTE
among others a gilded and enamelled coach of Charles X. ; the
coach in which the Empress Josephine, after her divorce, drove to
Malmaison; and the one used by Napoleon and Marie Louise on
the occasion of their marriage.
In the garden of the Petit Trianon, a smaller villa built by
Louis XV., is the dair}* where Marie Antoinette spent her happiest
days. Here, with her courtiers and ladies, attired in becoming
peasant costume, she played at the simple life of a country maid,
CHURCH OF ST, DENIS
PARIS
439
making butter in golden bowls and skimming cream with a jewelled
ladle. The neighboring woods are indescribably beautiful, and the
hamlet on the bank of a winding stream is still attractive enough
for any princess. Visitors are not admitted to the dairy, but
through the open window we could look in. Upon a marble table
at each end, a big "L, " standing for Louis, is carved. We
could imagine the delight of the highborn dames in their pretty
pastime. How delicious to the sated palate of a gentleman of
TOMB OF NAPOLEON
the Court must have been a draught of new milk, when presented
by the hand of the beautiful Queen! With the Kings of France,
Marie Antoinette and her royal spouse sleep in the old church of
St. Denis, which is literally a church of tombs.
As the name of Napoleon is preeminent in the annals of
France, so his last resting-place is grand beyond all other tombs.
Above the entrance, is an inscription taken from the will of the
Emperor: — ''Jc desire que mes cendres reposcnt stir les bords de
la Seine, ait milieu de ce penple francais qtie j' ai tant aime."* Be-
*"I desire that my ashes repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of
that French people whom I have so loved."
4+0 PARIS
neath the glittering dome of the Hotel des Invalides, is an open,
circular crypt of marble. In the mosaic of the pavement is a laurel
wreath bound with purple ribbons, and there, also, are recorded
the names of battles. In the center stands the sarcophagus, cut
from a solid block of red F"innish granite, weighing sixty-seven tons.
As if on guard about the crypt, are twelve statues of Victory and
sixty battle flags recalling the triumphs of the Emperor. The light,
tinged with blue by the glass of the dome, sheds its dim ra}-s over
the polished marble, enhancing its solemn grandeur. Opposite the
entrance is the high altar bathed in a golden glor}', which streams
throusih the orange glass of the side windows in warm contrast to
the cold, blue shadows of the crypt, symbolizing, m the language
of sublime color, Death and Immortality.
When one studies the life of Napoleon, seriously, he finds
that it is a difficult matter to avoid admiring mtensely his courage,
executive abilitv and tireless energy; on the other hand, how much
there is to blame! Said Wordsworth: —
"I grieved for Buonaparte, with a vain
And an unthinking grief! for, who aspires
To genuine greatness but from just desires.
And knowledge such as he could never gain?
'Tis not in battles that from youth we train
The Governor who must be wise and good,
And temper with the sternness of tb.e brain
Thoughts motherly, and meek as womanhood.
Wisdom doth live with children round her knees:
Books, leisure, perfect freedom, and the talk
Man holds with week-day man in the hourly walk
Of the mind's business: these are the degrees
By which true Sway doth mount; this is the stalk
True Power doth grow on; and her rights are these."
The Hotel des Invalides is a home for wounded and disa.bled
soldiers, and it seems fitting that Napoleon should be surrounded
by those who have suffered for their country. In the museum are
preserved the Emperor's swords, camp bed, flags and many famous
documents.
One day, after a three hours' walk in the cemetery of Pere
.'Ett:.'---j\£ COLUMN
442
PARIS
Lachaise, we stopped at an attractive restaurant near the gates,
for our midday meal. On the menu, among the vegetables, I
saw petits pois, * and, thinking they would be appetizing, ordered
some. They were brought in smoking hot, but, when I lifted up
a spoonful, there, in the center, was a large bluebottle fly, very
well done indeed. I called the waiter, but, as he was busy, the
proprietor of the establishment came from behind the counter to
see what I wished. I pointed significantly to his flyship, where-
upon, mine host, rolling his eyes upward in a deprecating wav and
shrugging his shoulders, said plaintively: "It is not my fault,
Madame; it fell from heaven!" Then taking up the spoon, he re-
moved the oflender, and walked off with an air which implied that
I had put him to a great deal of trouble.
Guidebooks state that one can make the excursion to Fon-
tainebleau in one day, but it is difficult. We made the attempt,
but were obliged to return to the city without having seen anv-
thing of the Forest, which is regarded as the most beautiful in
France. The Palace of Fontainebleau was founded in 116:! by
Louis VII., but rebuilt by Francis I., in the i6th century. It has
five great courts, and it was in one of these, sometimes called the
"Court of Farewells," that Napoleon, after his abdication, bade
farewell to his Grenadiers, in the memorable words, ''Adieu, mes
cnlauts ! "\ The interior of P\:)ntainebleau seems to me more impos-
ing than that of Versailles. The gallery of Francis I. and that of
Henry II. are the most magnificent of all the salons. Marie An-
toinette's superb, suite of rooms is lavishly decorated and hung with
Beauvais tapestries, the bed being a marvel of elegance and luxur\-.
The carving of some of the ceilings suggests the work of the Japa-
nese, and is exceedingl}' well done; as are the sculptures in wood
and stucco. In the gallery of Diana the ceiling and side walls are
covered with representations of hunting scenes in which Diana,
goddess of the chase, is the central figure. The initial letter of
Napoleon's name is emblazoned on the crimson velvet of his chair
in the throne room, and the chandelier is of rock cr3'stal. The
* Green peas.
f "Farewell, my children! "
MARIE ANTOINETTE
444
PARIS
walls of one apartment are of panelled wood, set with rows of
Sevres plates, on which are painted the royal residences. In this
palace the sentence of divorce was pronounced against Josephine,
Napoleon's wife, in 1809, 3^"^ here Pope Pius VII. was imprisoned
from 1S12 to 1 8 14.
Yesterday, we had a delightful day in the countrv, where
poppies and bachelor's buttons tumble over each other in a mad
scramble for the place which rightfully belongs to the wheat and
THRONE AT FONTAINEBLEAU
barley. Starting at 10:25 ^- ^^- '^^'^ reached Auvers on the Oise
river, at 1 1 -.2,0. A short walk up the hill brought us to the pretty
villa of the American artist, Charles Sprague Pearce, who had in-
vited us to luncheon. We found the artist in a spacious, air}' studio,
which had a wing inclosed in glass. He is working on the mural
painting which is to adorn one of the walls of the Congressional
Library at Washington. The three sections are nearly completed.
The subject of the largest is the "Familv;"of the others, "Study,"
and "Religion." The composition, th'awing and tone of each paint-
ing is clean, strong and full of deep feeling.
LOUIS XVI
446
FAJilS
We enjoyed a characteristic and delicious luncheon, presided
over by Mme. Pearce, a charming Frenchwoman, and then, after a
visit to the aviary, where a number of fine birds testified to the
care bestowed upon them by their mistress, we all went for a stroll
about the town, passing the old home of Daubigny, the great land-
ST. ETIENNE DU MONT
scape painter. I lis widow still resides there. Near by are low
thatched farmhouses nestling among the very trees he so loved to
paint, and from the ])row of the hill we could look down upon
Pontoise in the valley. On the banks of the Oise are rows of
PARIS 447
acacias with openings in the fohage, which reminded us of stories
about Father Corot \\\\a painted just such trees, as he said, for
the little birds to Hy through.
Charles Sprague Pearce is still a young man, but [xxssesses
many diplomas and awards ot merit which hang in the entrance
hall of his home. We look forward with great anticipation to his
future. Late in the afternoon, we said "Good-bye," and, laden
with tiowers, returned to Paris. It is with deep regret that we
leave in France this talented man who belongs to our native land.
When will Americans wake up to the fact that many of their
artists are living abroad ? When, b\' their patronage and svmpa-
thy will they make it not only possible, but advantageous, for them
to remain in America and to enjoy life there so much that they
will not desire to work in a foreign land?
These little trips into the country have been welcome changes
from the heat and bustle of the city, and from the nervous wear
and tear of the shopping in which ever}- woman indulges when in
Paris.
The Bon Marche and the Louvre are the two largest dry-
goods stores. Both are inferior in nearly every respect to our best
stores in Chicago. I have generally noticed in these establishments
that the clerk is, at first, all politeness and attention, but, let the
customer fail to be suited, and the manner of the salesman changes
instantly, often to impertinence. I have also had such experiences
in the shops where cooked meats are sold, and at the fruit stands.
The courtesy of the working classes seems to be superficial, but
our experiences with other people, with whom we have come in
contact, have been delightful. On the journey through Normandy
to Mont St. ]\Iichel, we shall see something of the peasants
of France, whom we hope to enjo}' as much as we did those of
Italv.
CHAPTER XXVII
MONT ST. MICHEL. GRANVILLE, AND JERSEY
lARLY on the morning;' of Jul\' 22nd, wu bade good-bye
to Paris with mingled feelings of regret and relief; re-
gret, that we could not see all of its beauties during
our short visit; relief, because we were going away
from the dust and heat, through the green country to
the coast. Normand\- is a delightful district of France,
and our route lay through woods and rich farm lands,
and past thatched cottages. Sweet-faced old women, in snow-
white caps with frilled borders, sat knitting in many doorways, and
in the fields, men and women were toiling side by side, just as
Millet has painted them, their wooden sabots adding the final touch
to the usual costume of blue homespun. Ever\\\ here, farm work
is performed in a primitive way. The women cut the grain with
a sickle. As we had to wait at FoUigny three hours, we took a
walk down the road leading from the station, in order to obtain a
nearer view of some of the houses. It was a pleasure to see them,
as well as the little gardens, they seemed so homelike.
Avranches, the next stop of importance, is an old Norman
town, beautifully situated on a hill overlooking the river See. A
heaj-) of stones marks the site of a splendid cathedral, where, it is
said, in the 12th centurv Henry II. of England did penance for
the murder of Thomas a Becket.
But I must tell you of the experience we hud at Pontorson,
where we stopped for the night. On coming out trom the station.
we were literally mobbed bv omnibus and cab drivers, who thrust
their faces close to ours and shouted the advantages of the various
inns. At last, we gave our baggage to a man who seemed more
modest than the others, and told him to K'ad the way. His hos-
telry proved to l)e a second-class house, close to the depot, but
as it appeared to be clean, and we were tired and hungr)-, we
44S
MONT ST. MICHEL. G RA \ \I LLE, A XD J ERSRY 449
decided to stav. All wont well until we were settled in our room
and attempted to lock the door, wlien we found to our consterna-
tion that it only possessed an old-fashioned latch, and no lock
w^hatever. The same was true of a door leadin<^ into an adjoining
chamber. While we were debating what to do, for we knew it
would be useless, at that late hour, to search for the landlady, we
heard a strange noise under the window. Peering out, we saw
a man in the garden very quietly placing a long ladder against
the wall, beneath the window of the next room. Then we were
scared indeed! Visions of masked robbers with dark lanterns, and
tramps in blue blouses, with thick bludgeons, flitted through our
tired brains, and we held a council of war. Although recalling
stories of the honesty and carelessness of the average farmer, who
sleeps with his doors open to the world, we remembered the
treasures which we had accumulated, and thinking that discretion
was the better part of trust, prepared tor an attack. You ought
to have seen our defenses! they put Sebastopol in the shade! In
the first place, we gathered all the stout cords and strings from
the baggage and connected the latches of the two doors; then, on
the strings, we hung candlesticks, a tin cup, our little frying pan,
the alcohol lamp, and all the articles that would make a great
clatter, if the doors should be disturbed. Finally, we stacked our
umbrellas and canes so that they would fall if touched, and made
a barricade of the furniture, beds excepted. It did not occur to
us until we awoke the next morning, after a peaceful rest, that
probably the next room could only be reached through ours, and
that the person who was to sleep there had been obliged to enter
through the window, to avoid disturbing us. I really believe that,
in the end, we were a trifle disappointed at the prosaic ending of
the affair.
About nine o'clock, we mounted to the top of a coach and
started on a five-mile drive to Mont St. Michel, an isolated rock,
looming up out of the ocean, like a monster ship, about half a
mile from the coast. Its base is incircled by ramparts, and a
magnificent Benedictine Abbey, partially hewn out of the rock
itself, crowns the height. In 1880, a causeway was built to connect
the island with the mainland. Below the abbey and church, lies
29
45°
MONT ST. MICHEL, GRANVILLE, AND JERSEY
a little village with one street. The abbey was founded in 709 by
a bishop of Avranches, to whom the archangel Michael is said to
have appeared. It was destroyed in 1203, but immediately rebuilt.
After the Revolution, it was used for many years as a prison, and
is now the property of the state. The towers connected with the
ramparts add much to the picturesqueness of the rock.
One enters the abbey through the Donjon, which opens into
the Hall of the Guards and connects with the grand staircase. At
MONT SAINT MICHEU
the top of the third landing, is a broad platform with a parapet.
It is named Saut Gualtier, because in the 16th century a state
prisoner of that name attempted to escape from the castle by
leaping from the stone parapet into the sea. The distance was so
great that he was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. From
this platform there is an extensive view of the sea, and the divid-
ing line between Normandy and Brittany.
The church, begun in the Norman style in the iith century,
is mainly Gothic. As the interior is at present undergoing restora-
tion, it is impossible to get a clear view of it.
The cloisters of the abbey, with their double row of polished
granite columns, are beautiful. Next to the wall are stone ledges
MOXT Sr. MICHEL, GRANVILLE, AND JERSEY
451
in which holes are bored at intervals of about six feet. Our guide
informed us that, after death, the nude bodies of the monks were
placed on these ledges and purified with holy water which ran off
through the apertures. The}' were then wrapped in their \estments
and lowered into the charnel house in the bowels of the rock.
The dungeons are horrible, built one within another, with only
a tiny opening to admit air and food. We entered one, where a
noted prisoner by the name of Barbes was incarcerated, and saw
CLOISTERS, MONT SAINT MICHEL
the great ircMi chain by which he was fettered to a ring in the wall.
It was rusted with age, but still strong enough to hold a giant in
check. There was an iron cage where the wretched Duliourg, a
Dutch journalist, was eaten alive by rats in 1 746.
The largest rooms are the refectory, with a huge chimney for
roasting whole beeves, and the Hall of the Knights, so named
because Louis XI., who in 1469 created the order of St. Michael,
presided at the first reunion of the knights, which was held there.
After making the tour of the abbey, we were almost famished,
and descended the stone steps with more alacrity than we mounted
them. Below the dining-room of the Hotel Poulard Aine, is the
neat kitchen with its great fire of logs, where we watched Rime.
Poulard make one of the omelettes for which she is famous. The
long-handled pan reached over two rows of chickens, sputtering
AND HER GUESTS
MONT ST. MICHEL, GRAXl'lLLE, AND JERSEY
453
and sizzlins;' on a s[iit before tlic flames, and, believe me, the
dinner tasted all the belter because we had seen it cooked. Be-
sides the omelette and chicken, we had delicious fried fish, bread
and fruit; all for two francs and fifty centimes. For such a dinner,
we would have paid at least eight francs, in Paris.
Afterwards, we went down on the sands to watch the tide
come in, — everybody does. Some venturesome couples went out
on the rocks and sat there until the water touched their feet. In
five ininutes, the place where they had been was covered with the
MONT ORGUEIL CASTLE
rushing water, curling up and lashing the stone ramparts above.
An old fishwife told me that when tlie sea was highest, at certain
times of the year, it even reached the village.
The women of Normand)' generally wear caps, which are un-
becoming. In other respects, their costume differs little from that
of other French peasants.
It is onlv a short distance from Mont St. Michel to Granville,
one of the most important fishing towns on the Norman coast.
Cod is brought there in large quantities from Nova Scotia, and
sent with other fish and oysters to Paris. We engaged a room
for the night in one of the old-fashioned inns on the beach, so that
we could walk along the strand, past the homes of the fishermen.
Some of these humble folk were sitting out on their doorsteps.
454
MOXT ST. MICHEL, GRANVILLE, AND JERSEY
eating their evening meal of porridge, the women wearing a pic-
turesque headdress of white Hnen.
The following morning, we iml)arkfd iur the island of Jersey,
reaching St. Heliers in the afternoon. Walking about the princi-
pal squares, we saw the statue of Queen Victoria, and visited a
number of shops. The display of metal work is very fine, and old
Norman designs are copied in
bric-a-brac and jewelry. There
is a fort at St. Heliers, and
one sees nearly as many British
soldiers on the street as at Gi-
braltar. The island is indented
bv bays, the coast terminating
in high rocks. We longed to
sta)- and wander about the old
castle of Mont Orgueil and take
a trip to the Corbiere light-
house, but we were compelled
to take the boat the next morn-
ing for Portsmouth.
Although the Channel Islands are productive, the chief export
of Jersey and Guernsey is cattle. The breed of Jersey is that
commonly known as Alderney, kept pure by stringent laws against
the importation of foreign animals. While at St. Peter-le-Port,
Guernsey, the boat took on five Guernsey cows, a breed larger
than the Alderney. They were tan colored, with big, white
blotches, and great, soft eyes. Here also 4,000 baskets of to-
matoes were loaded for the London markets.
The Needles were a fine sight, springing up from the water
like marble monuments to shipwrecked mariners.
In the harbor at Cowes there were many fine yachts. The
Queen is expected at Osborne in a couple of days. Yesterday the
Princess Maud of Wales was married to Prince Charles of Den-
mark, and we learn that the elite of England are still in London,
and that the hotels are crowded. However, we shall not borrow
trouble, as we have not yet failed to find a place to lay our
heads.
CORBIERE LIGHTHOUSE
CHAPTER XXVIII
LONDON
■ O not be surprised if this letter smacks of Anglomania,
^\ for we are overjoyed to find England all that is sub-
stantial and delightful. The country is beautiful, the
i architecture, dignified, and the people, well-mannered.
Even the policemen are courtesy personified, and have
the geography of the city at their tongue's end. London
,/ I ^ may be more corrupt than other cities, but she seems to
have the ability to conceal the fact. We have visited the
most important places of interest, and have been out in the
evening to the theater, unescorted, without suffering the slightest
annoyance.
One is greatly impressed by the enormous amount of business
transacted in the City. The principal thoroughfares are so jammed
with vehicles that it is not unusual for a blockade to occur several
times in the course of an hour.
London has had an eventful history, and we are reminded of
it at every turn. It became important soon after the Romans set-
tled in England, which Caesar was the first to invade. Few years
pass without the discovery of Roman foundations. Nothing definite
is known of the population, until within three centuries. In the
1 6th century, London was less than half the size of Paris, but the
number of inhabitants has increased steadily, until, according to
the census of 1896, there are 4,432,271.
It is one of the sights of a lifetime to stand upon Waterloo,
Tower, or London bridge, and see the splendid buildings that rise
from the imbankments. As far as the eye can reach, there are
countless spires and domes, while the strong walls and yawning
moat of the Tower, the slow, even current of the river tvpify the
455
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
458
LONDON
strength, tenacity and progress which has made Great Britain one
of the powers of the earth.
Paris is a city of cafes, London of signs; wherever one goes,
he is confronted with staring posters setting forth the merits of
MONUMENTS OF MALCOLM AND BEACONSFiELD
something, — a brand of chocolate, or the efficacy of certain hver
pills. Glaring bills plaster buildings, fences, and omnibuses, and
hies of men — generally aged — patrol the sti'eets, sandwiched be-
tween iron frames upholding flaming advertisements. These per-
sons are called ' ' sandwich men. "
Londoners are a great contrast to Parisians, and, although
there are plenty of restaurants and grill-houses, — in lieu of cafes, —
there are no tables on the sidewalks, no laughing, chatty couples on
LONDON 459
the streets. Every one seems to be full of business; the men look
solid and solemn, and the women, like good wives and mothers
who have no intcrrst in iripperv. In fact, most of them are pos-
itively dowdy. Their carriage is often anything but graceful, and
it is the fashion to wear the hair at the back of the head in a
hideous wad, called a "bun," while the front locks are frizzled until
the owner looks like a Soudanese. Yet English women, though
lacking in wliat we call style, have fine complexions, and shapely
shoulders which they are overfond of exhibiting. Despite this fact,
they lack the air of frivolity that characterizes their sisters across
the Channel. While at the theaters, we have noticed that the
men appear to be weighed down by care, and sit most of the
time lost in thought, quite indifferent to the fair sex. A French
writer has said, ' They amuse themselves gloomily, according to
the fashion of their nation."
Generally, the first building visited by the stranger is the
grand old pile, containing the ashes of so many great men and
women, — Westminster Abbey. When in 6i6, King Sebert founded
a church in honor of St. Peter, it was placed west of a Cistercian
Abbey; hence the name, Westminster. The present abbey was
built in the 13th century by Henry III. and his son, Edward I.
Canon Farrar has said that Westminster is a " theology in stone, "
and that "the prevalent number is three; triple height, triple
length, triple breadth, to remind us of the Trinity." Its struc-
ture is "cruciform to signify the Atonement." "Even the geo-
metrical designs, which lie at the base of its ground plan, are
combinations of the triangle, the circle, and the oval, the symbols
of the Trinity, eternity, and the saintly aureole." Its architecture,
with the exception of the towers and one chapel, is Early English,
with a touch of Norman.
Once within, we forgot the beauties of the church itself in
contemplating the monuments. In the north transept, is that of
Disraeli, Lord Beaconsfield, twice prime minister of England. He
is represented in his robes of office and seems about to address
an invisible audience, so natural is the attitude, so keen and shrewd,
the expression of the clear-cut features. Here, also, side by side,
are Lord Chatham, Sir John Malcolm, and Sir Robert Peel.
460
LONDON
III the Pot-ts' Corner lie Tennyson and Browning, and, near
l)v, David Garrick, the actor. Across the aisle is a medallion on
which are the tolluwing lines: —
" Liff is a jest; and all things show it:
I thonght so once, but now I know it."
Who could have written them but Gay? He sleeps beneath the
pavement, with Addison and Burns, while the marble hgure of
William Shakespeare seems to
5Safc,
watch over the precious remains
in this chapel of St. Faith.
It did our hi'arts good to
see the bust of Longfellow not
far from the tomb ot Chaucer,
and a beautiiul, memorial win-
dow, dedicated to the poets,
George Herbert and William
Cow]ier, the gift of George W.
Childs, of Philadelphia.
The mosaic shrine ol Ed-
ward the Confessor, in the old-
est jiart of the abbey, is but a
wreck of what it once was.
Henry HI., who erected it, later
removed the jewels and gold
Willi which It was adorned, to
pay a war debt, and r( lie hunt-
ers have done the rest.
The most splendid jxirt of
THE SHAKESPEARE MONUMENT ^]-,g gdificC Is thc SUpCrb Chapcl
of Henrv VII., founded in 1502. The brazen gates, decorated with
roses, symbolize the union of the Houses of York and Lancaster,
which ended the Wars of the Roses. The fretted stone ceiling
is considerc-d the finest in the world. On either side of tlu^ nave
are the black oak choir stalls of the Knights of the Order of the
Bath; they are beautifully carved. Below them, are seats for the
three squires allowed each knight. The armorial bearings on the
THE POETS' CORNER, WESTMINSTER ABBEY
462
LONDON
seats are in brass, and above are suspended a sword and banner.
The monument of Henry VII. and Elizabeth, his wife, is inclosed
in a chantry * of brass, the work of the Italian artist, Torriciano,
THE TOWER
the man, by the way, who, in his youth, quarrelled with ^Michael
Angelo and broke his nose with a mallet.
Later, we stood by the tombs of Elizabeth of England and
her unhappy rival, Mary, Oucen of Scots. Long ago, these royal
women met in a garden, with taunts and supplications, and yet,
how near to one another are their marble effigies! Gazing, we
wondered if their troubled spirits were at rest.
The Tower is the most interesting spot in London, from a his-
torical point of view. The White Tower, erected by William the
Conqueror, was first a royal palace and fortress, next, a prison,
and now, it is a government arsenal. However, it could still be
* Small chapel, generally containing the tomb of the founder.
LONDON 463
used as a fortress in case of war, and we are told that the moat
could be filled at any time. Surrounding the White Tower are
twelve others, and a strong wall. One enters by the Lion's Gate,
where once the royal menagerie, now at the Zo5logical Gardens,
was stationed.
The warders in and about the Tower are soldiers of merito-
rious service, and wear quaint costumes consisting of baggy trou-
sers, belted blouses and wide hats of red and black. Thev are
nicknamed "Beef-eaters," as, in ancient times, the Yeomen ot the
Guard were served with rations of beef, daily.
Within the gate is a little chapel, where are buried, among
others, Lady Jane Grey and the Countess of Salisbury, Devereux,
Earl of Essex and two of the six queens of Henry VIII., — Anne
Bole}'n and Catharine Howard; these five were beheaded in the
courtyard oi the Tower, and a brass tablet marks the spot where
the block stood.
We walked up the great stone stairs of the White Tower,
where the bodies of the little princes, sons of Edward IV., were
once hidden. When Edward died, his brother, the Duke of Glouces-
ter, afterwards Richard III., declared his marriage invalid, and his
sons illegitimate. He had them confined in the tower, and soon
after, it was announced that they were dead. Though the circum-
stances seemed suspicious, evidently no one dared accuse Richard,
then on the throne, and it was not until twenty years later that
the bones of the princes were found beneath the stairs. The fact
then became known that, at Richard's command, the children had
been smothered in their beds.
The collection of armor and relics in the Banqueting Hall and
Council Chamber is very interesting; it includes equestrian figures
fully equipped for the tournament, a mounted wax figure of
Elizabeth, and the cloak upon which General Wolfe died at Que-
bec, in 1759.
The Crown Jewels are kept in the Wakefield Tower, in a
glass case protected b}- an iron cage, and further, by a strong
metal lattice. It is difficult to see them distinctly, but, as there
have been several attempts to steal them, precaution is necessary.
With the exception of Queen Victoria's Crown, which contains the
A KNIGHT IN ARMOR
LOXDO.y 465
famous rubv owned bv the Black Prince, and worn bv Henry V. on
his helmet at the battle of Agincourt, the Regalia did not seem to
me as fine as the Austrian or Saxon display. The vessels of gold
are not to be compared to the exquisite works of Benvenuto Cel-
lini, in Ital\-, and ^■et, those collections are protected onl\' by a
glass case, and a guard.
When we came away, a company of Grenadiers, or Queen's
Foot Guards were drilling in the courtyard, headed by a band dis-
coursing martial music. They made a splendid appearance in their
scarlet uniforms. The Grenadiers are the First Regiment, and wear
scarlet tips at the side of their helmets and a .scarlet band on their
forage caps.
The Coldstream Guards are the Second Regiment, and wear a
white tip and band, while the Third, or Scots Guard, wear a plaid
band in the forage cap, but no tip; otherwise, we are told, the
uniform of the three regiments is the same.
That evening, we attended the last performance of the season,
at the Lyceum Theater. ]\Ir. Forbes Robertson and Mrs. Patrick
Campbell were the stars. They gave single acts from fi\e of their
principal plays, so that we saw Mrs. Campbell in a variety of
characters, all of which she personated admirably. She is a lithe,
delicate -looking woman, with a beautiful, riant face, and an ex-
tremely sympathetic manner. Mr. Robertson is a talented and
finished actor, and bids fair to stand at the head of his profession.
As the guests invited to the royal wedding are still in town, the
theater was filled with fashionable people, making a gay and varied
scene.
The Parthenon Sculptures, in the British Museum, are nearly
black, now, while the Parthenon itself is not badly discolored, and,
where the marble has been recently broken, almost white. How
we wish we could transport these marvellous carvings to the old
temple on the Acropolis! They belong to Greece rather than to
England, and, some dav, we trust they will be replaced on the
structure that, without them, seems forsaken and desolate.
England has her faults, but she is a splendid country, and I
bow in homage to her thrift, and, most of all, to her hero-worship.
It seems to me that there is no more imposing monument than
3ti
LONDON
467
the one in the center of Trafalgar Square, erected to Lord Nelson,
commemorating his heroic death at the battle of Trafalgar, October
22nd, 1805, when the British fieet destroyed the armaments of
France and Spain.
From the British Museum, it is only a short drive to the
South Kensington Museum. This great institution is maintained
by the government at an
annual expense of about
^'600,000. The collec-
tions are so extensive that
we could do little more
than catch a glimpse of
the principal objects of
interest.
We have enjoyed im-
mensely the annual exhi-
bition at the Royal Acad-
emy, which alwa}'s at-
tracts so many distin-
guished people; now and
then, one even rubs el-
bows with roj'alty. It
was amusing to see a
party of tourists, prob-
ably ' 'Cookies, " (as those
conducted by Cook's
agents are often termed),
rushing through the Trafalgar square
rooms, barely glancing at the pictures, evidently for the sole purpose
of saying, "I have 'done' the National Gallery, in London."
Mr. Orchardson's portraits are magnificent, and there is a
wonderful combination of yellows, called "Clytie, " which bears
the name of Sir Frederick Leighton, the late president of the
Academy.
I have forgotten to tell you where we -are stopping. In the
first place, upon reaching London, we decided that, for once, we
would go to a fashionable hotel, and thus have an opportunity
468 LONDON
to study London styles, for, as I have said before, tlie best
people are in town. However, on entering the Hotel Cecil,
we were dismayed at the sight of the decollete gowns worn
b\' women wlio were promenading up and down, after dinner, and
we concluded that it was too fashionable for us, and that our simple
travelling dresses would be more in keeping with a quieter place.
We are now at a family hotel on Howard Street, near the Strand,
and within two minutes' walk of a dozen lines of omnibuses, which
is very convenient. The terms are low for room and breakfast,
and other meals we take in our room, or wherever we happen to
be. The breakfast is quite as elaborate as a dinner, and on the
buffet, at one side, are cold joints trom which one can order a
slice. The servants, like all English domestics, are quiet, attentive
and deferential, a welcome change from those in Paris. All about
our hotel are famous old houses once occupied by noblemen, but
now used for business purposes. Not five minutes' walk from here
is Somerset House, a palace in itself.
We had a quiet, restful Sunday morning, and in the afternoon
attended the song service at St. Paul's. Old St. Paul's, begun in
1087, was probably the third Christian church to occupy this site.
In 1 56 1, it was injured by fire and, during the reign of James I.,
the dilapidated nave became a rendezvous. "Crowds of merchants
with their hats on transacted business in the aisles, and used the
font as a counter upon which to make their payments; lawyers re-
ceived clients at their several pillars; and masterless serving-men
waited to be engaged upon their own particular bench. Besides
those who came on business there were gallants dressed in fashion-
able finery, so that it was worth the tailor's while to stand behind
a pillar and fill his table-books with notes. When the cathedral
was being rebuilt Sir Christopher Wren made a strict order against
an}- profanation of the sacred building."
Near by, once stood the famous Cross of St. Paul, where the
Pope's condemnation of Luther was read in the presence of Car-
dinal Wolsey, and where heretics were brought to recant, and
witches to confess.
The present St. Paul's, liegun in 1673, after designs by Sir
Christopher Wren, is the third largest church in the world, and
470 LONDON
ranks next to the cathedral of Milan. Its architecture is I'eally
Gothic, though the details are classic. On each side of the fa9ade
is a bell tower, 222 ft. high; one contains the largest bell in Eng-
land, weighing sixteen tons; the other, the most delightful chimes
I have ever heard, — a merry tumbling of sweet sounds, as if each
bell were racing with the others in some mad play.
The interior is rich in construction, but poor in decoration.
Among the notable monuments are those of the Duke of Welling-
ton, Lord Nelson, and Alajor General Gordon, who was killed at
Khartoum in 1885.
It is going from the sublime to the ridiculous to take )'ou from
a cathedral to the monke}' cage at the "Zoo," but there we went
on Monday. Such rascals as they were, from the hoary-headed
grandpa to the babies! After walking about for an hour, we seated
ourselves on one of the benches which line the roadway. There,
the elephants and camels are led up and down, laden with merry
boys and girls, and squealing babies in their nurses' arms; some
of the more venturesome lads, scorning the comfortable howdah, sit
astride on the animal's neck. I had bought some sponge cakes, on
my way to the "Zoo, "for a little lunch, and they lay in my lap
in a paper bag that might have contained milliner}^ for aught the
public knew; but one elephant was not deceived. He "sized up"
that package from afar, with his little, twinkling eyes, and scooped
it up from my lap. By the time I had grasped the situation, the
lunch was rapidly disappearing down the throat of the sneak thief.
You should have heard the shouts of the people! On his next trip,
the same elephant poked his trunk into the lap of nearly every
one along his wav, in his eagerness to get another tempting morsel.
I only hope the paper did not give him indigestion.
The Zoological Gardens are said to be the finest in the world,
and occupy a large portion of Regent's Park, which was laid out
during the reign of George III. There are over 2,000 animals
and birds in the collection.
The Parliament Buildings, or new Palace of Westminster, in
the richest Gothic style, cover eight acres on the banks of the
Thames, and are most imposing when viewed from the river.
Upon entering, we were conducted to the Queen's Robing Room,
472
LOXDO.V
furnished with a canopied dais and chair, and some laro;e tables.
It is decorated with beautiful frescoes, illustrating the legends of
the Round Table. From this room, the Queen passes through a
great hall to her throne in the House of Lords, to open Parlia-
ment.
The House of Lords is sumptuous in the extreme. It is
lighted by twelve stained glass windows, containing the portraits
THE HOUSE OF LORDS
of the rulers of England since the Conquest. On the right of
the Queen's throne, is a lower one for the Prince of Wales; that
intended for the sovereign's consort is on the left. The woolsack,
a kind of ottoman on which the Lord Chancellor sits, is directly
in front of the throne. There are red leather-covered seats on the
floor for the 550 peers, and galleries for strangers.
The House of Commons, beyond the Central Hall, is plainer
than the House of Lords. The Speaker's seat occupies a posi-
tion corresponding to that of the woolsack in the House of Lords.
The benches on the right of the Speaker are the seats of the
Government party, those on the left, of the Opposition.
LOXDON
473
Westminster Hall is part of the ancient Palace of Westmin-
ster, and now forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament. It
has a wonderful oaken ceilinc;, and contains several statues of Eng-
lish monarchs. Coronation festivals were held here; here, also,
Charles I. was condemned, and here Cromwell was saluted as Lord
Protector. It is said that, after the removal of Cromwell's body
from Westminster Abbev, his head was exposed with those of two
others on the pinnacles of Westminster Hall, for twentv-five
vears. A hi^h wind finallv blew it to the "round, where it was
found by a sentry; it afterward came into the possession of a Dr.
Wilkinson, one of whose descendants still claims it.
The best shops are in Bond and Regent Streets, and Picca-
dilly; they seem quite as attractive as those in Paris, though the
prices are higher.
In an elegant cafe on Regent Street we were able to procure
a glass of ice cream soda water, the first we have had since leav-
ing America. It was flat and insipid. Upon a counter in front of
the fountain, was a row of layer cakes, from which people cut their
own pieces. It was the best cake I ever tasted !
The Aerated Bread Companv have a large number of eating
474
LOXDON
houses scattered over the business portion of the city, and shop-
pers find them very convenient, and the prices reasonable. One
can j2;et quite a respectable luncheon for a shillinj^.
The liveliest square in London is that upon which arc situated
the Bank of Euf^land, the Royal Excliange, the Stock Exchange
and the Mansion House, where the Lord Mayor resides. It is
dangerous, and sometimes impossible, to cross anv of the streets
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
that radiate from this square, without the aid of a policeman. Here,
the omnibuses are in a constant state of intanglement.
The Bank, founded in 1694, has the exclusive privilege, in
London, of issuing paper money. The vaults usually contain
;^ 20, 000, 000. The building is only one story high, and has no
outside windows, being lighted solely from interior courts.
It is verv interesting to view the principal thoroughfares from
the top of an omnibus, al)out five in the afternoon, when they are
filled with rushing streams of vehicles and pedestrians. The con-
ductors drum up passengers for the omnibuses, whenever they
stop, shouting out the various points of interest along the line.
One pleasant route leads to Hyde Park, which covers nearly
400 acres. Among the most important of the nine carriage entran-
476
LONDON
ces is Hyde Park Corner, near which is an equestrian statue of the
Duke of WeUington. A track called "Rotten Row" is used ex-
clusively by equestrians. From the seats placed along the sides,
one can see the wealth and fashion of London enjoying their
favorite exercise.
North of St. James's Park is St. James's Palace, erected by
Henry VIII. in 1532. The initials "H. A. ," those of Henry and
Anne Boleyn, are above the mantel in the Presence Chamber.
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were married in the Chapel
Royal of St. James's, and until the deatli of the Prince, the
DETAIL, ALBERT MEMORiAL
Queen's Levees, to which only gentlemen are admitted, and the
Drawing Rooms, at which ladies are presented, were held in this
palace.
Buckingham Palace, at the west end of St. James's Park, is
the Queen's residence, when in town. Last week this palace was
thronged with royal guests and members of the Court, who were
there assembled for the wedding festivities of the Princess Maud.
She must be a great favorite, judging from the expressions of ad-
miration and affection that we hear daily.
478 LOXDON
In Kensington Gardens, adjacent to Hyde Park, is the archi-
tectural, memorial monument erected by the Queen and her people
to Albert, Prince Consort. It is of granite, bronze and marble,
the groups of figures at the four corners of the base being espe-
cialh' fine.
In the earl\- part of the 17th century, "the taverns of Lon-
don held a very important place. The Boar's Head in Great
Eastcheap was an inn of Shakespeare's own day, and the char-
acters he introduces into his plays are really his own contem-
poraries." At the London Tavern, formerly King's Head, Oueen
Elizabeth took her first meal after being liberated from the Tower.
On Bishopgate Street Within, near its junction with Threadneedle
Street, is a restaurant, once one of the finest houses in the city and
occupied by the Duke of Gloucester, afterward Richard III. It is
called Crosby Hall and is mentioned by Shakespeare. "At the
Mermaid Ben Jonson may be supposed to have had such rivals as
Shakespeare, Raleigh, Beaumont, Fletcher, Carew, Donne, Cotton,
and Selden, but at the Devil in Fleet Street, where he started
the Apollo Club, he was omnipotent."
Fleet Street to-day is a sober thoroughfare filled with shops,
but at every turn in the central part of London, one is brought
face to face with its history, in which great men long dead, and
the women who influenced them, played such an important part.
In our admiration of the city of to-day, and in the excitement of
viewing strange scenes and customs, we must not forget to honor
those to whom honor is due.
Early yesterday morning, we started for Waterloo Station on
our wav to Hampton Court, the largest royal palace in Great
Britain; it is about an hour's ride from London. While we were
waiting for the train, a long line of children from six to twelve
years old, each with a green ticket labelletl "Fresh Air Fund"
about the neck, began filing into the waiting room. All were
dressed in what was plainly cast-off ck)thing; one little girl had
on a very long, black skirt and a blue silk basque, made for a
woman of thirty, belted to her little figure with a soiled, pink rib-
bon; a wide lace collar completed the costume. Others wore old
velvet or silk dresses, embroidered stockings with holes in the heels,
LOXDON 479
and slippers. I asked onc^ of the ladies in charge who the chil-
dren were, and she said that they belonged to a mission connected
with the Ragged Schools, and were going to Bushy Park for a
day's t)uting. Most of them looked old and careworn bc_\()nd their
years, but one little creature, with big, ugly shoes, had life enough
for the whole company. She was surely some waif from the dance
halls, for she could not keep her feet still, but amused the by-
standers by executing fancy dances, and the last we saw of her, as
she entered a special train, one leg was poised in the air in true
ballet fashion, and her elhsh face was brimming over with enjoy-
ment and anticipation of the day's delights.
The Palace of Hampton Court was founded by Cardinal Wol-
sey in 15 15, and presented b\- him to King Henry VHI. Later
on, the Stuart line, and also Crtmiwell, occupied it. The scene
represented in Pope's "Rape of the Lock'' occurred here. From
the Thames the palace is imposing, but, not occupying an elevated
position, it loses in dignity when viewed from other directions.
We entered by Anne Bolevn's Gateway, and ascended a stair-
case leading up to the Great Hall, built by Henry VHI. It is 106
ft. in length, 40 ft. in breadth, and 60 ft. in height. Fine tapes-
tries adorn the walls, and the ceiling is in the Perpendicular Gothic
style.
The valuable collection of pictures fills about twenty rooms.
Here is the "Triumphal Procession of Caesar" by Mantegna, * a
wonderful painting in distemper; also Sir Peter Lely's ''Beauties
of the Court of Charles H."
To the south of the palace, in the Pond Garden, is a Black
Hamburgh grapevine 128 yrs. old. Its stem is thirty-eight inches
in circumference, and the branches spread over 2,200 ft. The
annual vield is about 1,200 bunches, each nearly a pound in weight;
most of this fruit goes to Windsor Castle.
The return from Hampton to London was most delightful.
Taking the front seat of a double-decked coach, we drove past
Diana's Fountain and the Lion Gates, through Bushy Park, on the
wa}' to Richmond. Bush\' Park is a royal property of 1,000 acres,
■Italian painter, 143 1- 1506.
LONDON 48 1
and contains more than that number of tame deer The roads are
lined with enormous horse-clicstnut trees, planted, it is said, liy
William III. Each season when they are in blossom, thousands
of city folk come to witness the sight.
Bowling across "Twickenham Town," we passed the tine resi-
dence of Mr. Labouchere, M. P., occupying the site of the poet
Pope's old honie, on the banks of the Thames. Our hearts gave a
leap as we spied some little boats, and recalled the refrain of
" Twickenham Ferr)'."
Alighting in front of Talbot's at Richmond, we immediately
set out for Billet's to secure some of the celebrated ' ' Maids of
Honor, " a dainty cheese cake, the recipe for which was furnished
by one of the maids of Queen Elizabeth. These cakes are made
by beating milk curds with sugar, eggs and lemon juice; this mixture
is put into puff paste shells and baked.
Kew Gardens, further on, with their many hothouses, are
among the finest in England. Kew Palace, where George III. and
Queen Charlotte lived many years, is an old brick building with a
quaint chapel near hw containing an organ on which Handel played.
At Kew we embarked on a Thames river boat, and for several
hours enjoyed a quiet sail, passing many interesting places, includ-
ing Putney and Chelsea. The latter is called the "cradle of great
men, "as it was the home of Carlyle, Rossetti, Leigh Hunt, Dean
Swift and other celebrities. The Thames is a beautiful river, frinsred
for miles with low willows; the tasteful boathouses and pleasure
craft belonging to noblemen, who have villas near the banks, add
much to its attractions.
A delightful afternoon was spent in the India and Ceylon
Exhibition, where the mosques, theaters, bazaars, bridges, and
artificial lakes are reproductions of those in the places men-
tioned. Afterwards, we had a genuine Indian dinner, sitting under
the cooling breeze of a punka,* the cord being pulled by a coolie
in red and white, while others served the meal. The menu con-
sisted of the following dishes; thick soup powdered with rice, boiled
salmon served with boiled rice and red pepper dressing, chicken
* A fan suspended from the ceiling.
31
482 LONDOX
and rice sprinkled with curry powder, boiled ginger pudding, and
preserved fruits.
This morning found us at the "Old Curiosity Shop" that
Dickens has made so dear to us; it is back of the Law Courts,
on a narrow street, a little building, looking as if about to tip
over with age, and now used as a junk shop.
Taking a cab with a well informed driver, we crossed London
Bridge and made a tour of the section called Whitechapel, w^here
so many dreadful deeds occurred not long ago. The poverty and
degradation of this community of Jew brokers, second-hand dealers,
and roughs is appalling.
Women and children were lounging on the sidewalks and in
the doorways, unkempt, dishevelled, and unclean. It is strange, as
well as pitiful, that, in a city where industry seems to hold full
sway, there should be so many poor people. Nowhere in America
have I seen such abject misery as in London. The people seem
infinitely more wretched than the beggars of Italy and Spain.
There, we saw little evidence of the liciuor habit among the poor.
Here, on the contrar3^ the faces of the majority are bloated and
inflamed by drink. No matter how ragged Southerners are, they
will generally smile when spoken to, and seem to take some com-
fort out o[ a bare existence, evidentlv with taith in brtter times
to come, but tliese poor creatures seem to have lelt hojie behind.
We find upon incjuiry that the charities of London are counted
by thousands, and that they are well organized, as are the in-
numerable societies for promoting industry. It is said that, once
a year, on "Hospital Sunday," hundreds of charitable women stand
on the street corners to collect alms for the hospitals, while vol-
untary subscrijitions to benevolent objects amount to more than
/^5, 000,000 annually. Too much praise cannot be given to the
aien and women of London, who are devoting their time, strength,
and money to the elevation of moral and physical lepers. May
these good Samaritans ever increase in number and their "light so
shine" that the indifferent and the selfish mav be influenced by
their example, and go and do likewise.
CHAPTER XXIX
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
-NE orazes at the grand old Castles of England with
mingled feelings of admiration and regret; admiration
for those ancient strongholds, about whose firesides
.'J still gath(.'r noble descendants of noble ancestors; re-
gret, where broken arches and shattered towers tell the
sad story of bitter dissensions and relentless warfare.
Windsor, one of the most magnificent of royal palaces,
is twenty -one miles from London. The journey thither is uninter-
esting, if one makes no stops; but, leaving the train at the little
village of Slough, and then walking along the fine, country road to
Stoke Pogis, the traveller will be well repaid. In the little burying
ground at Stoke Pogis is the tomb of the jioct Grav, and there
he composed his "Elegy written in a Countr}- Churchyard."
'Beneath those rugged ehns, that j'ew tree's shade,
Where heaves the turf in many a mould'ring heap,
Each in liis narrow cell forever laid,
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.
'Perhaps in this neglected spot is laid
Some heart once pregnant with celestial fire;
Ihiiuls, that the rod of empire might have sway'd.
Or wak'd to ecstacy the living hre. "
just before reaching Windsor, we passed Eton College, an
English school of wide renown founded by Henr\- \'I., in 1440.
Crossing the Thames, the imposing proportions of Windsor Castle
were in full view. As early as the period of the Heptarclu', when
Entrland was divided into seven kingdoms, a strouLrhold existed
here. The Round Tower was built b}' Edward III., in the 14th
484
CASTLES AXD COLLEGES
4S5
centuiy; its bell was brou.t^ht from Sebastopol. Edward selected
the spot where, according- to legend, King Arthur used to sit,
surrounded liy the Knights of the Round Table. Eacli succeeding
sovereign has added to Windsor.
The C)uc-en occupies the rooms on the east side of tlu^ (|uad-
rangular court; they contain many art treasures, embracing a rare
collection of drawings, portraits and porcelain.
No more magnificent example of English Gothic architecture
exists than St. George's Chapel. It has a fan-shaped vaulting.
ETON COLLEGE
with hanging pendants, and the choir is incircled by the carved
stalls of the Knights of the Garter, with their armorial bearings.
Adjoining, is the Albert Memorial Chapel, a perfect kaleido-
scope of colored marbles, sculpture, stained glass and ornate decora-
tion, very rich, but overloaded and oppressive. The tombs in the
center are those of the Dukes of Albany and Clarence ; the latter
was the elder son of the Prince of Wales; there is, also, a cenotaph
of the Prince Consort, who is buried at Frogmore. We saw the
gorgeous mausoleum through the trees in the distance, as we wan-
dered down the long walk which leads from the castle toward the
statue of George IV.
The Great Park of Windsor comprises 1,800 acres, and is well
CASTLES AXD COLLEGES
487
Stocked with deer. Some of the oaks are of great antiquity. One
cannot hclji remarking England's wealth of fine trees. They all
seem thrifty and sturdy; the leayes are gloss\' and hrin, as if the
soil were extremely fertile.
From Windsor it is but a few hours' ride to Oxford, a town
of Colleges, celebrated since the 13th centur}'. It is, says Dean
Stanley, "a mass of towers, pinnacles and spires, rising in the bosom
of a valley, from irroyes which hide all buildings, but such as are
f
THE QUEEN'S APARTMENTS, WINDSOR CASTLE
consecrated to some wise and holy purpose." That it is a beauti-
ful spot calculated to inspire genius, and strengthen noble purpose,
none can deny. The very atmosphere of Oxford is exhilarating.
One draws deep breaths of the sweet, country air, in the quiet
walks beside the river, and falls into profound meditation under
some wide-spreading elm. The principal street, one of the finest
in England, is the High Street, which presents a great variety of
architecture.
The venerable appearance of many of the college buildings is
caused not only by time, but, we are told, by the lawlessness of
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
489
the students, who for years have chipped off fragments of the
stone from the casements of the windows and doors, with their
sticks, until they look as if they liad suffered in the Hundred
Years' War. Howe\'er, the Enghsh ivy is gradually eoyering the
walls with its cloak of green, and soon the battered stone will be
hidden from yiew.
Although Christ Church College, founded b)- Cardmal Wolsey
and reestablished by Henry VIII., is not the most beautiful of the
THE HALL, CHRIST CHURCH COLLEijE
colleges, it was the most interesting to us. Among the students it
is known as ' ' The House. " We engaged a garrulous old man,
who had lived in the ]ilaee all his life, to go about with us; more
because we wished to hear him talk than because we really needed
a guide. The Great Quadrangle, around which the buildings are
grouped, measures 264 by 261 ft., and was intended by Wolsey to
be surrounded by cloisters.
In the Towei", generally known as "Tom Tower," is a bell
called "Big Tom." It weighs 17,000 pounds; eyery night at ten
minutes past nine, it tolls one hundred and one times, the signal
for closing the gates.
Over the entrance to the Hall is a statue of Wolsey; and the
escutcheons of Henry VIII. and Wolsey are carved on the roof
of Irish oak. This hall, 115 ft. long, is lined with the portraits of
490
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
eminent Englishmen. Here the students dine, and here, on hard
wooden benches. Sir Robert Peel, Ben Jonson and " Billy " Glad-
stone (as our old guide called him) ate their frugal meals, like
ordinary mortals, and hobnobbed with the "next boy."
As Christ Church is the official residence of the sovereign,
when in Oxford, the great Hall has been the scene of many im-
THE BROAD WALK, CHR:5T CHURCH COLLEGE
pressive festivities, James I., Charles I. and Queen Elizabeth hav-
ing witnessed plays enacted there.
The Chapel, a part of which formerly belonged to St. Frides-
wide's Priory, is unique in architecture, and one lingers long before
the fine Norman doorwa)-. The vaulted roof is of Wolsey's time,
and, at the left of the choir, is the reputed shrine of St. Frides-
wide, who died in 740.
CASTLES A\D COLLEGES
491
From the dim, ({uiet vestibule we stepped out into the glow-
ing sunshine, and crossed the meadows by a broad walk bordered by
venerable elms. How inviting this shade must be to the students,
who can muse or study on the comfortable seats beneath!
Many quaint customs cling to Queen's College, so named after
its patroness. Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III. .At Christmas
dinner, a boar's head is served. It is brought intn the I bill at
the head of a procession, while the students sing an old Latin
MAGDALEN COLLEGE, OXFORD
song. "Every New Year's day the bursar offers his guests a
needle and thread, coloured red, yellow and blue, for the three
faculties, Law, Physic, and Divinity, with the words, ' Take this
and be thrifty'; a custom which is supposed to have originated in
the founder's name, Aignillc-fil, 'needle' and 'thread.'" In old(>n
times, beggars were fed daily at Queen's. Probably it was safer
to have such a custom, then, than now.
But it is Magdalen* College that we love to remember, with
* Pronounced " Maudlin.
492 CASTLF.S AXD COLLEGES
its stately towers and splendid quadrangles, with its walks l)eside
the Cherwell, where Addison loved to roam. Fragrant shrubs are
reflected in its still waters and great trees spread their roots be-
neath its bed. The buildings cover nearly eleven acres of ground.
Pretty little fawns run beside their soft-eyed mothers in the deer
park, or l)i)und timidlv away, when a stranger approaches the elms
under which they are browsing.
In one oi the principal squares of the town is the Martyrs'
Memorial, commemorating the burning of three English advocates
of the Reformation, the Bishops Ridley and Latimer, and Cranmer,
Archbishop of Canterbury. For Cranmer, who was instrumental in
divorcing Henry VIII. from several of his wives, we cannot feel as
much sympathy as ior the brave and aged Latimer, who, though
degraded by being stripjied of his clothing before the fagots were
lighted, still had the fortitude to speak words of comlort to his
fellow sufferer, Ridley. These three martyrs, like many others, were
the victims of the fanatical queen, whose persecution of Protestants
has given her the name of "Bloody Mary."
P'ine Liljraries, Museums, Theaters and an Art Gallery add to
the attractions of Oxford. It is pliyisant to think that a man with-
out a title, and with limited means, cm enjoy the privileges of this
famous University; that here, if nowhere else, the son of a prince
meets the son of a merchant, on an equal footing. We are told
that there are American boys studying in Oxford, who are among
the most promising pujiils.
A little to the north of Oxford lies P)lenheim, the estate of
the Duke of Marlborough. I)V order of Queen Anne, an act of
Parliament transferred this estate from the crown to J^hn Churchill,
the first duke of Marlborough, as a reward for his victory in the
battle of Blenheim, Bavaria, in the year 1703, when the English
forces concjucred the French under Marshal Tallard.
As we alighted at the little station of Woodstock, one day
about noon, we tound that we had just tour hours in which to get
our dinner, and visit the palace before the train lett for Warwick,
riu.'re seemed to lie no hotel, but walking along the one business
street of the town, we discovered a modest restaurant, and entered.
The proprietor, who was also the waiter, regaled us with gossip
CASrLES AXD COLLEGES
493
about the great people at the palace. As the new duchess of
Marlborough is an American girl, we were naturally curious to
know what was thought of her. This man spoke in the most
flattering terms of her beauty, graciousness and generosity, and
showed us a picture of the evergreen arch with its "Welcome
Home!" erected at the palace gate, in honor of the bride; and
another, of the throng of servants who stood bareheaded to greet
her, upon her arrival. He told us that she was to give three large
entertainments this week; on Thursday, she would be "at home"
t() the gentrv; on Frida\', the school children were to have a fete
BLENHEIM PALACE
in the park, and on Saturday, the tenants, of whom there are eiglit
hundred on the estate.
Passing through the imposing, triumphal gate erected b}- the
first duchess of Marlborough to the victor of Blenheim, we entered
the lodge and procured tickets of admission at a shilling each, for
the house and garden. The lodge-keeper was dressed in old-time
costume, and once, when a carriage came down the drive, he took
up a long staff with a liall on top, and, placing himself at the
gate, with staff upright, stood there straight and stiff until tlie
equipage had passed.
As we walked uji through the park, we noticed preparations
for the approaching festivities. Gay tents, under which refresh-
ments were to be served, were pitched here and there, and men
were dragging iron fences mounted on wheels about the grounds,
to partition oft certain portions.
494
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
The facade of the palace, 325 ft. in length, is unlike anything
we have seen in England. The architecture may be styled "/r-
rcgiilar, with classic details." A broad drive leads up to the
entrance, which has a portico with huge Corinthian columns. To
the right and left, are curving colonnades, something like those
before St. Peter's, in Rome; they terminate in towers. Between
the columns are large, green tubs containing tropical shrubs and
orange trees.
When we stepped into the hall, there came over us a sense
nf emptiness and melancholy, that the visit to other parts o( the
palace only increased. The rooms are lofty, and, save now and
then an antique piece of furniture, the appointments are modern
and unsuitable. The only place that seemed homelike was a small
music room, where some servants were filling vases with white
sweet peas and maidenhair ferns.
The library, 183 ft. in length, is finished in white with gold
tracing, the walls being panelled in carved wood; on one side, is a
magnificent, new pipe organ. Four polar bearskins are spread upon
the floor. At one end stands a marble statue of Oueen Anne;
at the other, a bust of the great duke, but the splendid room looks
o-hostlv and unfurnished, and the bookcases, once holding 80,000
volumes, are emptv. It was dismantled by the late duke, who sold
the books and most of the pictures and furniture, to pay his debts.
While standing in the grand drawing-room, we saw the ducal
pair at luncheon, in another apartment. The Duchess was attired
in a negligee of pale blue satin and white lace. The servants in
attendance wore powdered wigs and knee i)reeches. Later, the
Duke came out into a hall, where we liappmcd to be, and s]-)oke
to one of the servants. He has a ])righl, shrewd lace, and we
imagine that under his care, Blenheim will recover some of its
lost prestige.
In one of the drawing-rooms, there is a portrait of the present
duchess by Carolus Duran, the eminent French portrait painter.
He has painted her as a slip of a girl in floating tulle, without a
single jewel, yet the poise of her head and the firm grasp of the
wand in her right hand, as she descends a flight of steps, give her
an air belonging onlv to those who are to the "manner born."
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
495
The picture is worthy to be placed beside that of Queen Louise
of Prussia, and makes Americans feel proud. Not a portrait, in all
the r^alleries we have visited, is more dignified and lovel}' tlian
that of Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborou.^h.
The Italian gardens at Blenheim are fine indeed; here are
kept many scarlet and green parrots, and the little spaniels, of
which her ladyship boasts a hundred.
We arrived at Warwick late in the afternoon, and found that
the hotel accommodations were limited, and the prices higher than
we wished to pay; so we cast about for private lodgings. A
WARWICK CASTLE
woman, who kept a bookstand, told us that we might get a room
over a neighljoring fruit store, and it proved to be just what we
wanted.
When a child, I was deeply impressed by Buhver Lytton's
story, the "Last of the Barons," and the first sight of Warwick
Castle in its stately beauty filled me with the same sense of awe
that the exploits of Richard Nevile did, then. As we stood to-
496 CASTLES AXD COLLEGES
gether on the bridge over the Avon and looked at the grand old
towers, the embattled walls and the wide, deep moat, now grass-
grown, we felt more than ever before that there is no majestv so
impressive, so soul-stirring, as that of a great monument of archi-
tecture, fraught with a history like that of Warwick.
From the lodge the approach to the castle is hewn, for more
than a hundred yards, through solid rock, now covered with the
most wonderful lichens and overhung with thick shrubbery. When
one emerges from this avenue of green, he finds himself at the
edge of the moat, over which is an arch where the draNvbridge
formerly swung out; beyond, is the great gate. There, the huge,
machicolated towers of the castle loom above one, like giants. That
on the right is called "Guy's Tower, "after the champion, Guv of
Warwick, around whose career many legends cluster. It was
erected in 13 lo, by Thomas, Lord Beauchamp, and is 12S ft.
high; its walls are ten feet thick. Through the openings, the be-
sieged could throw down sharp stones and molten lead upon the
heads of the besiegers below. In the deep dungeons of Ca?sar's
Tower, which is older by two centuries, are curious inscriptions
scratched on the wall by prisoners of war.
Entering the castle, we stood in speechless admiration, for
here was realized our dream of a lordlv hall. On the walls amid
branching antlers and other trophies of the chase, were spears,
swords and guns, as well as colors that had been through the
Crimean War. Along the sides ot the hall stood figures clad in
the armor of earls long dead. The oaken chests, chairs and tables
looked as if intended for a race of giants, while, in a corner, was a
huge iron porridge pot, and the tilting pole, sword and armor of
Guy of Warwick. That he was nine feet high is a tale one does
not doubt, u]ion lifting his twenty-pound sword, or gazing at the
flesh tork, which he is supposed to have used in eating. We took
in our hands the mace of Richard Nevile, the "king-maker" and
"king-breaker." It lay on a table, above which was a curious
shield, incircled by Scottish swords. It is wrought in silver and
was once l)orne by Charles Edwartl, the Pretender, whose tomb is
in St. Peter's.
The state bedroom, which has been occupied bv Queen Anne,
CASTLES AND COLLF.GKS 497
Ouccn Elizalx'th ;uid yucca \'icloria, contains sonic iinc jiicturcs,
and is hunj;- with a sumptuous ))iccc of 17th centur\- tapestry from
Brussels. An odd, little leather trunk with Ijrass niounlinns. once
used by Queen Anne, stands beside the bed.
In the library we saw a bufTet car\ ed from a majestic oak
which ,i;rew near Kenihvorth Castle. It was a wedding' present
irom tlu' county to the late earl, on the occasion of his mar-
riage, in 1852.
The famil}' are now travelling, so we were permitted to enter
their private apartments. From the windows of the exquisite bou-
doir of the Countess, where priceless mosaic taljles and bric-a-brac
delight the eye, we looked out ui)on the l)anks of the Avon, sluuU-d
by lofty cedars of Lebanon, and flower gardens, where peacocks
were strutting up and down the paths, or spreading their gorgeous
tails to the sun, as they sat upon the top of the broad walls.
On a knoll stands the conservatorv built to receive that famous
work of art, "The Warwick Vase." It was discovered at the bottom
of a pool at Hadrian's Villa, near Tivoli, Italy, and purchased at
once b}' one of the earls of Warwick, who placed it here. It is
of pure white marble, magniiieentlv carved, antl has a capacitv of
163 gallons. The rim is incircled by a grapevine, laden with fruit,
which also forms the handles. About the bowl is the skin of a
panther with head and claws attached, which, with a vine-wreathed
thyrsus and other emblems of Bacchus, completes the design.
We did not need to glance over the pages of a volume of
Felicia Hemans' poems, lying on a table in the boudoir, to recall
her appropriate lines on the "Homes of England": —
"The stately homes of lingland,
How beautiful they stand,
.\midst their tall ancestral trees,
O'er all the pleasant land!
The deer across their greensward bound
Through shade and sunny gleam.
And the swan glides past them with the sound
Of some rejoicing stream."
Kenilworth is easily reached by carriage from Warwick, so
one afternoon we engaged a landau and Ixiwled along the country
498
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
roads between farms bounded by thick, closel}- trimmed hedges and
past vine-clad cottages with thatched roofs. The gardens were
running over with dahhas, marigolds, and phlox; but more brilliant
than all were the coaches, which, drawn by four, or even six, horses,
and hlled with gaily dressed ladies and their escorts, dashed by
us, with horns at full blast, on their way from Coventry to Strat-
ford-on-Avon, the village where the cottage of Shakespeare still
stands.
There were many cyclers, for wheelmen are not slow to take
advantage- of the picturesque, country roads of England. The inns.
RUINS OF KENILWOKTH CAbTLE
for many years closed, owing to lack of business, are now frequented
by these seekers after health and pleasure, and do a thriving busi-
ness. We were amused by the signs, so characteristic of the Eng-
lish. There was the "Punch Bowl," the "Green Man," and "The
Iron Key." At one of these inns, we were refreshed with some
currant buns and a cuj) of tea, all for a sixpence. In Greece we
felt that we had not breakfasted, without Hymettus honey, and in
AMY ROBSART
500 CASTLES AND COLLEGES
Italy, that we had not dined, without macaroni; so here, we never
tire of currant buns.
Guy's Chfie was our hrst stopping-place. The beautiful manor
house is built on the rocky cliff, over a cave where Guy of War-
wick, returning from one of his martial exploits, sated with victories,
and weary of the world, sought rest and peace in the lite of a re-
cluse. It is said that he repaired to the castle daily tor tln^ee years,
to beg his bread, which he received from the hand of his own wife,
who did not discover his identity. While mortally ill, he sent his
ring to her by a messenger, but she reachetl his side only in time
to bid him a last farewell. IK' was buried in tlie ca\'e. The
mansion is now inhabited by a nobleman and his tamih", and there-
fore clo.sed to the public. There is a fine old Saxon Mill not far
away, the wooden wheel now unused. This, with the t(.)aming cas-
cade, and the trees overhanging the river below the house, makes
a delightful picture.
We came all too soon to the picturescjue ruins of Kenilworth
Castle, which, ivy-grown and surrounded by holI\- and hawthorn
trees, is on the site of a fortress once occupied by a Saxon king
named Kenulph, and his son Kenelm. "Worth" is the Saxon word
for dwelling place, and, combined with the king's name or that of
the prince, forms "Kenilworth."
The castle was Iniilt in the reign of Henry I. During the
Wars of the Roses, it belonged alternately to the difierent factions,
and suffered accordingly. When Queen Elizabeth presented Kenil-
worth to her favorite, Robert Dudley, Eail of Leicester, he at once
began extensive improvements and his boundless wealth and tine
taste enabled him to transform the estate into a dream of Ijcauty.
When quite voung, Dudle\' had married Amy, the beautiful
daughter of Sir John Robsart, but the marriage did not prove a
happy one. Unscrupulous and with an overmastering ambition, he
permitted no obstacle to lie in his ]iath. Poor Amy stood in the
way of his advancement. Her death occurred, untler susiiicious
circumstances, in 1560. It was said that she broke her ncn-k In'
falling down stairs, but facts were afterwards disclosed which led
to the belief that she was murdered.
Elizabeth niade Dudlev a Knight nf the Garter, and in 1564,
CASTLES AND COLLEGES 501
Baron of Denbicjh and Earl of Leicester. The latter title brouj^ht
him man\' honors, anion^' them, the Chancellorship of the Uni-
versity of Oxford. He then contracted a secret marriage with the
dowager Baroness of Sheffield.
In 1575, upon the conij^letion of the great bancpiet hall of
Ivcnilworth, the liarl j^ave such a magniiicent entertainment in honor
QUEEN ELIZABETH
of Queen Elizabeth that it has won a place in history. The tete
lasted more than two weeks, at an expense of /,' 1,000 per day.
A large number of oxen, sixteen hogsheads of wine and forty of
beer were consumed daily.
From Mervyn's Tower, one can look down into the banquet
hall, eighty-six feet long, with its immense windows, and picture to
himself what it must have been in the days of Queen Bess.
The tilt-yard, where the tournaments took place, lay between
502
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
two large towers, and was the principal scene of entertainments.
Imagine the haughty Elizabeth, in her jewelled stomacher and
stiff, brocaded robes, escorted b}' the handsome Leicester, making
a tour of the grounds! What must have been her discomfiture
and rage, when later she discovered his second secret marriage, to
ROBERT DUDLEY, EARL OF LEICESTER
the widow of the Earl of Essex, who, by the way, also died under
suspicious circumstances!
Just as we were entering the town of Warwick on our re-
turn, we overtook three carriages containing a joyous wedding party.
The bride, a pretty little blonde, wore a bunch of white roses in
the belt of her muslin gown; a similar knot fastened the bridal
veil to her hair. The groom was very lanky and awkward, and,
as the bridesmaids and groomsmen made rhymes on his name,
"Tommy," and kept shouting them from one of the rear carriages,
CASTLES AND COLLEGES 503
his face was about the ct)lor of a piece of red flannel. We jogged
along behind, enjoying the fun immensely, and, when they drew up
in front of a small church, waited a moment until they had dis-
appeared within and then followed them, taking a rear seat. The
simple Church of England ceremony was soon over, and Mr. and
Mrs. "Tommy" walked down the aisle, while some little girls strewed
their way with rose petals and daisies.
It was only a short walk from this place to St. Mary's, a vener-
able edifice where the noble families of Warwick and Kenilworth sleep
their last sleep. The curate, who happened to be in the church,
showed us about and explained the tombs.
The Ladve Chapelle is considered one of the most exquisite
examples of Gothic architecture in England, the stonework being
a mar\el of carving. In the center is the tomb of Richard Beau-
champ, Earl of Warwick, whose brass gilt effigy rests upon the top.
I copied a part of the inscription, as the old English is so quaint: —
' ' Preieth devoutly for the Sowel whom God assoille of one of
the most worshipful Knightes in his days of monhode & conning
Richard Beauchamp late Earl of Warrewik lord Despenser of Ber-
gevenny & of mony other grete lordships whos body resteth here
under his tumbe in a fulfeire vout of Stone set on the bare rooch
thewhuch visited with longe siknes in the Castel of Roan therinne
decessed ful cristenly the last day of April the j-ear of our Lord
God AMCCCxxxix."
In the 17th century, the Hoor of the Ladye Chapelle fell in,
under the weight of the tomb, and the casket was broken open. The
body, which was perfect, returned to dust, on exposure to the air.
Some of the hair was woven into rings by the ladies of Warwick.
To the left of the chapel, against the side wall, is the altar-tomb
of the cruel and ambitious Leicester. The sculptured figures of
the earl and his last wife are lying upon the sarcophagi. The
curate told us that the tomb was erected to the earl by this wife,
and related the manner of his death. Finding that the woman who
bore his name was, like his former wives, in the way, Leicester
resolved to rid himself of her. He mixed a deadly poison in a
cup of wine and awaited the Countess in their apartments. On
her appearance, he was suddenly seized with vertigo, and she.
504
CASTLES AND COLLEGES
alarmed, snatched tlie cup from tlie table and <:,ravc it to him to
drink. Being partially unconscious, he swallowed the wine, un-
awares, and died soon alter.
The little tomb of the "Noble impe, " a dwarf, who was the
only child of this couple, was also pointed out. He too ma}- have
THE LADYE CHAFELLE
been murdered at the instigation of his father, Init, as history does
not fully corroborate these tales, we should take them, like the
legends of the relics, the lives of the saints, and the doughty
deeds of chivalrv, "with a grain of salt."
With all our anxietv to push on toward Liverpool, and the
steamer which is to take us home, we shall be sorry to leave
England, for, altliough more like our own country than any other,
there is much to learn on English soil. The rural life is charac-
teristic and charming. An Englishman is at his b(>st among In's
dogs and horses, at his country seat. The fre(|uent showers make
the turf like green velvet, and all vegetable life is luxuriant. Every
rod of ground is judiciously tilled, every tree and slirub, pruned
CASTLES .LVD CO I. I.F.C ES
505
with care ami i;()()(l taste; in fact, the Eiii^Iish liome is a paradise
on earth.
••Waving wliispering trees,
Wluit do you say to the breeze
And what says the breeze to you?
'Mid passing souls ill at ease,
Moving murmuring trees,
Would ye ever wave an adieu?"*
* Dante Gabriel Rossetti.
^
yjr^^
i^^-
:^
CHAPTER XXX
HOMEWARD BOUND!
HE English railway system is as near perfection as pos-
^ ■P^\ sible. No better roadbeds exist, and, as there are no
jfk PilS grade crossings, accidents are almost unknown. The
**'' ^ only annoying feature is the management of the baggage.
Instead of having a check, as in America, and thus being
relieved of all responsibility, at each change of cars, one
must scramble over piles of baggage, to identify his own,
and then watch the porter until he has deposited it in the van.
Of course, if one has a maid, as English ladies generally have, it
does not matter so much.
Liverpool seems to have "turned the cold shoulder" to us,
for, ever since our arrival, we have been shivering. If it is chilly
here in the middle of August, what must it be in midwinter? But
perhaps the ocean is kinder than our lakes.
Owing to its proximity to the great coal districts, and to its
marvellous docks, Liverpool is one of the most important seaports
of the world. Probably no other city has such an extensive road-
stead. Thousands of vessels load and unload there, and special
docks are set apart for the use of different nations.
While looking over some embroidered handkerchiefs in the tiny
parlor back of a linen shop, kept by two orphan sisters, I noticed
on the wall a view in the gardens of Nymphenburg, near Munich.
Stepping up to examine it, I saw the title, "Silence." It was
significant. There were green trees, a stretch of water, and, along
the edge, .some marble statues, cold and still; not a sign of life.
Suddenly, I was awakened from my reverie by the voice of one of
the sisters, saying, "Do you know these gardens, Madam?" Learn-
ing that I had visited them, she plied me with eager questions.
It seemed that the two girls had been reared by their grandmother,
a native of Munich, who had recently died. They had often heard
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her describe the beautiful gardens, and were naturally interested to
talk with any one who had lately been there.
Wretchedly poor people seem to compose half the population
of Liverpool, where there is little of architecture or art to interest
the stranger. St. George's Hall, in the center of the city, is an
attempt at the classic style, and, in the midst of this atmosphere
of commerce, seems out of place. In front of it are several statues,
chief of which is that of the Queen, whose long reign has been one
of England's greatest blessings.
In her marriage, Victoria was more fortunate than the ma-
jority of sovereigns. Albert, Prince Consort, was a thoroughly good
man, firm but gentle, princely yet modest, and their union was glad-
dened by many children. The Queen has nothing to regret. She
will leave a noble history behind her, when, some day, she is laid
beside her beloved husband, — the record of a pure maidenhood,
a loyal wifehood, a devoted motherhood and a distinguished rule.
We are on board the Cunarder, Umbria, dear friend, and,
while I sit watching the fast receding shores of old England, I will
add a few lines to this, my last letter to you, from foreign parts.
■1 C'UH.k. vUEEN OF ENGLAND
HOMFAVARD BOUXD 509
You will bo interested to know what good compan)- we have
on board. The Ivij^ht Honorable Lord Russell and family, of Kil-
lowen, and Sir Frank Lockwood and Lad\- Lockwood are insconced
in their chairs within a few rods of ours. It is a pleasure to watch
the fine face of Lord Russell light up in conversation. A concert
is, as usual, to be given by the passengers, for the benefit of the
"Seamen's Charities, " and we are told that both these families
are to take part. Lord Russell, as you know, is one of the most
brilliant judges in England, and we anticipate much pleasure at the
entertainment over which he is to preside.
There are also several members of the Ancient and Honorable
Artillery Company, of Boston, on board. This company of gallant
Americans has been lavishly entertained by the English nobilit\',
and the whole party are going back to America with the warmest
feelings of friendship for their cousins across the water.
We have succeeded in carrying out our original plan regard-
ing time, mode of travel and expenses, and looking backward over
our long journey, I marvel at such good fortune. It would be diffi-
cult to determine where we have enjoyed ourselves the most, for
everything has been so interesting.
In our wanderings, we have admired the gallantry and courtesy
of the Europeans. We are grateful for their invariable kindness
to two lone women. Nevertheless, we are happy beyond measure
to know that America is our home, — America, where, with abilitv,
honor and true worth, a man or woman ot humble origin may reacli
the highest position, and, moreover, be received into the best society.
For years, Europe has sent her poor, her ignorant, her helpless to
charitable America, not caring what became of them, so long as
she was rid of the burden. F"ew educated Europeans really know
anything about America, beyond the tact that she has rich mines,
Indians, title hunting heiresses, and that Americans spend money
lavishlv. However, each vessel bound for our shores now carries
a few of the better class, and we may hope to be better under-
stood, before man\- 3-ears have passed.
My companion is standing not far away, straining her eyes in
the direction of the coast. An audacious breeze has caught her
veil and torn it from the little steamer cap that covers her bonny,
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brown hair. As I watch her bright face, I remember afresh what a
pleasant time we have had together and how cheery and helpful
she has always been. We are both joyfully anticipating our return
home, — home, the most precious spot on earth, after all!
Your sincere friend,
Adelaide.
"There is a land, of every land the pride,
Beloved by heaven o'er all the world beside;
Where brighter suns dispense serener light,
And milder moons emparadise the night;
A land of beauty, virtue, valor, truth,
Time-tutor'd age, and love-exalted youth:
The wandering mariner, whose eye explores
The wealthiest isles, the most enchanting shores,
Views not a realm so bountiful and fair.
Nor breathes the spirit of a purer air;
In every clime the magnet of his soul,
Touch'd by remembrance, trembles to that pole;
For in this land of heaven's peculiar grace.
The heritage of nature's noblest race,
There is a spot of earth supremely blest,
A dearer, sweeter spot than all the rest,
Where man, creation's tyrant, casts aside
His sword and sceptre, pageantry and pride.
While in his soften' d looks benignly blend
The sire, the son, the husband, brother, friend;
Here woman reigns; the mother, daughter, wife,
Strew with fresh flowers the narrow way of life!
In the clear heaven of her delightful eye.
An angel-guard of loves and graces lie;
Around her knees domestic duties meet,
And fireside pleasures gambol at her feet.
Where shall that land, that spot of earth be found?
Art thou a man? — a patriot? — look around;
O thou shalt find, howe'er thy footsteps roam.
That land thy country, and that spot thy home!"*
'James Montgomery.
RARE BOOK
COLLECTION
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Travel
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